# EK Club



## luke997

Good idea, I think I'll join in:

CPU block - Supreme HF - Acetal + Nickel
3x GPU blocks - FC480 GTX - Acetal + Nickel
3x GPU backplates - FC480 - Black
MB block - FB ASUS X58 - Acetal + Nickel
MB Mosfet blocks - MOSFET ASUS X58 Kit - Acetal + Nickel
GPU Bridge - FC Bridge - Triple Serial (currently out of the loop)

Photos are in the links in my sig.


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## Faisal11iraq

i was wondering why there is no such club, EK doing great and there are a lot guys using it's products.


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## wermad

-Supreme HF, Nickel plexi (rev.1 round top)
-Asus RE3, Nickel plexi mb block
-Dominator ram block, nickel plexi
-3x FC470 GTX blocks, nickel plexi


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## yang88she

Chipset Block
Reservoir

Should be in and setup this week


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## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faisal11iraq;13170782*
> i was wondering why there is no such club, EK doing great and there are a lot guys using it's products.


Now there is.









When I get up in a few hours I will update.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yang88she;13170907*
> Chipset Block
> Reservoir
> 
> Should be in and setup this week


Could you be more specific?


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## Triangle

I have a Supreme HF Full Copper.
2xFC5870.

EDIT: Sorry for double post.


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## charliehorse55

Supreme HF Full Nickel

That's all I have right now.


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## shadow19935

No pics?? I have a GTX280 with EK block incoming


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## Triangle

Updated and a sig will be added soon....


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## TPE-331

Good to see an EK owners club finally take shape. My EK parts are:

CPU block - Supreme HF Full Nickel rev 2

GPU blocks - 2x FC480

FC bridge - Dual Parallel 2 slot

GPU backplates - 2x FC480 - Silver

Motherboard block - Asus X58 Acetal/Nickel

Ram block - EK Dominator Acetal/Nickel

Radiators - CoolStream XTC 420 - CoolStream XT 240


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## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow19935;13172299*
> No pics?? I have a GTX280 with EK block incoming


Is it FC?

EDIT: Updated and I added a Google Spreadsheet.
EDIT2:Going to add permalinks to the Google Spreadsheet soon.


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## jclark

CPU block - Ek Supreme HF Nickel/Acetal
GPU blocks - 2x Ek-FC GTX470 Nickel/Acetal
GPU backplates - 2x Ek GTX470 backplates
GPU bridge - Ek Dual serial & Ek Dual parallel
Motherboard block - Ek Classified X58 SLI block Nickel/Acetal


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## Triangle

Updated.


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## wermad

Please update mine, I have three nickel back plates for my gpu(s)


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## Triangle

Updated.


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## wermad

Im sorry, could not see the op w/ my phone









I also have the EK Sli bridge triple parallel. Thanks Tri


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## TPE-331

Triangle, I forgot to describe my GPU blocks as Acetal + Nickle:cheers:


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## ntuason

Add me!!

EK Supreme HF Nickle - Plexi
EK-CoolStream Radiator XTC (360)

Ordered:
Two EK-FC6970 Nickel/Acetal
EK-CoolStream Radiator XTC (140)
Asus Rampage III Extreme NB/SB - Nickel/Plexi


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## Vipervlv

lol







I want in








CPU - EK Supreme HF Plexi (universal)
Pump - EK DCP 4.0
Fittings - EK High-Flow 1/2"


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## Sast

I'll join:

Ek Bay Spin
Ek Supreme HF
Ek pump top


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## Triangle

Updated.


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## nden

EK promised they will release 560Ti water blocks around March, now it's April... no see no seen anything







very disappointed.


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## MURDoctrine

Add me Triangle, I'll up some pictures of my blocks later. I have 2 EK Supreme HF Acetal/Nickel GPU only blocks on 2 460gtx's.


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## Compaddict

*Rig 1*

GPU blocks - 2x FC-470GTX Nickel/Acetal
GPU backplates - 2x Ek GTX470 Nickel










*Rig 2*

GPU blocks - 3x FC-580GTX Nickel/Acetal
GPU bridge - Ek Triple Parallel










* Pic added


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## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;13182184*
> EK promised they will release 560Ti water blocks around March, now it's April... no see no seen anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very disappointed.


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## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;13182184*
> EK promised they will release 560Ti water blocks around March, now it's April... no see no seen anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very disappointed.


Keep at em'. Maybe its been pushed back since March saw the launch of the 6990 and GTX590 blocks and ek was scrambling to get these out asap. Eddy and Greg have been prompt w/ replying in the past so don't give up







.

btw, as an alternative, look into their Supreme HF universal gpu blocks.


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## Darkcyde

EK-DDC X-RES 140 VERSION 2
EK-Supreme HF High Flow - CPU Water Block - Copper/Acetal


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## Triangle

Updated.


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## ttoadd.nz

I have a pretty long list, here goes:

EK Supreme HF Full Nickel
EK Supreme HF Blue Plexi
EKFC 5970 Acetal Nickel
EKFC 5870 Acetal Nickel
EKFC 6990 Acetal Nickel
EKFC 6970 Acetal Nickel
EKFC P67A-UD7 Acetal Nickel
EK Spin bay Res
EK Ram Block Acetal Nickel

Thats it for now lol.

P55 Rig


Sandy Rig is coming


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## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;13186003*
> I have a pretty long list, here goes:
> 
> EK Supreme HF Full Nickel
> EK Supreme HF Blue Plexi
> EKFC 5970 Acetal Nickel
> EKFC 5870 Acetal Nickel
> EKFC 6990 Acetal Nickel
> EKFC 6970 Acetal Nickel
> EKFC P67A-UD7 Acetal Nickel
> EK Spin bay Res
> EK Ram Block Acetal Nickel
> 
> Thats it for now lol.
> 
> P55 Rig
> 
> 
> Sandy Rig is coming


nice that the 5970 and 5870 left port lines up nicely


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## Triangle

Updated.


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## Triangle

Bump.


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## wermad

EK users unite and belong


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## koven

EK <3

high flow & full cover w/ backplate .. nickel/acetal


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## Triangle

I will update in a second, but I was wondering what your FC is on and which cpu block? Acetal or Acetal + Nickel?


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## koven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13221741*
> I will update in a second, but I was wondering what your FC is on and which cpu block? Acetal or Acetal + Nickel?


EK Supreme HF and FC580 w/ backplate, nickel+acetal thanks


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## Triangle

Ok, thanks.
I will update after I eat dinner.


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## nden

Can I join too?









Only have an EK spin res for now...

Photo:


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## Triangle

Updated.


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## 3dfxvoodoo

I have a EK Supreme HF cpu Block


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## Triangle

Updated.


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## RatDog

EK Supreme HF Nickel
EK GTX 470
EK multi-res advanced
EK D5 top v2
EK-CoolStream RAD XT (120)


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## Triangle

Updated.

Big update!! I added permalinks!!


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## nden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13222536*
> Updated.
> 
> Big update!! I added permalinks!!


I'd rather put the link near by username, way easier to navigate.


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## ezveedub

Well, so far, I have:
EK 6990 Nickel-Plexi GPU waterblock
EK 6970 Nickel-Plexi GPU waterblock
EK 6870 Nickel-Plexi GPU waterblocks (x2)
EK 16/12mm G1/4 compression fittings
EK FC Bridge DUAL Parallel connector

Would post pics, but my current build is on hold due to a reseller deciding to open my 6970 waterblock box, cut the .5mm, 1.0mm, & 1.5mm pads and leaving me with not enough to install my block. So ticked off right now its not funny.


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## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13223722*
> Would post pics, but my current build is on hold due to a reseller deciding to open my 6970 waterblock box, cut the .5mm, 1.0mm, & 1.5mm pads and leaving me with not enough to install my block. So ticked off right now its not funny.


wow, what was their reasoning for that?


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## Compaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13222536*
> Updated.
> 
> Big update!! I added permalinks!!


Nice job!


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## munaim1

EK Supreme HF cpu Block Full Copper


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## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13224016*
> wow, what was their reasoning for that?


I sent an email to the reseller and EK. I wanna see what the reseller has to say tomorrow and if EK can send me them without having to go through the reseller, as this is a reference 6970 V1 and they are getting harder to find waterblocks for, plus, I cannot locate EK 1.5mm thermal pads either. When I opened the box, I saw the thermal pads and was like "Thats is?" I looked at them and noticed one side was not clean cut, but at an angle. I checked the instructions and noticed my .5mm pad was about half the length I needed and the 1.5mm was also about half the length I needed. I have a 1.0mm pad thats one length and the other 1.0mm pad is half its length. Plus the plastic bags they came in as well as the hardware bag were all wrinkled and slightly beat-up. I didn't check to see if all the hardware is there though. Would hate to get pads and then start assembling it, only to find out some screws or other hardware is also missing. Just not in the mood to deal with more issues if there's any, so I packed it all back up for now. I'm thinking about sending all the stuff I ordered back and purchasing from someone else, most likely overseas. I'm tired of US companies pulling this crap.


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## Arksniper

<3 Ek blocks they are so purty

EK HF Supreme Full Copper
EK Nickel-Acetal 5970 Full Cover


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## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13224162*
> I sent an email to the reseller and EK. I wanna see what the reseller has to say tomorrow and if EK can send me them without having to go through the reseller, as this is a reference 6970 V1 and they are getting harder to find waterblocks for, plus, I cannot locate EK 1.5mm thermal pads either. When I opened the box, I saw the thermal pads and was like "Thats is?" I looked at them and noticed one side was not clean cut, but at an angle. I checked the instructions and noticed my .5mm pad was about half the length I needed and the 1.5mm was also about half the length I needed. I have a 1.0mm pad thats one length and the other 1.0mm pad is half its length. Plus the plastic bags they came in as well as the hardware bag were all wrinkled and slightly beat-up. I didn't check to see if all the hardware is there though. Would hate to get pads and then start assembling it, only to find out some screws or other hardware is also missing. Just not in the mood to deal with more issues if there's any, so I packed it all back up for now. I'm thinking about sending all the stuff I ordered back and purchasing from someone else, most likely overseas. I'm tired of US companies pulling this crap.


sucks, if it was one of the two big sites (ppcs or frozencpu) they will tell you to bug ek, I know, they have brushed off customer service issues for me before. I hate that, especially since EK is in eastern europe and they are in same freak'n country as us


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## robbo2

EK cpu block, EK FC chipset block, and EK pump top







I love all off EK's products.


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## sprower

I'm getting close to finishing up my first loop and am a bit of a noob but the moment I saw EK blocks I was sold. Lucky me they ended up being top notch.


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## USFORCES

Only EK here!


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## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13224718*
> sucks, if it was one of the two big sites (ppcs or frozencpu) they will tell you to bug ek, I know, they have brushed off customer service issues for me before. I hate that, especially since EK is in eastern europe and they are in same freak'n country as us


That's why I sent a email to EK directly, as I have no faith in the reseller I got mine from here in the US (wasn't PPCs or Frozen-they don't even have the block in stock), but I'll wait and see what they say. I've ordered from EK directly also, because it seems the resellers here all just want you money, but want zero accountability for anything that comes with running a business.


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## FreeWillzyx

Me likey!

CPU Block: Supreme HF Full copper
GPU Block: FC580 GTX Nickel Acetal w/Backplate (EK of course)
Res.: BAY SPIN Reservoir - Acetal
Rad.: CoolStream XT 360 (hooking rad up tomorrow to replace my XSPC rx-360 which has a leak).


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## Wubble

I have an EK-FC580 GTX+ on my 580, it's purty.


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## _craven_

I have :

3x EK-FC580 GTX+ Nickel Plexi
2x EK-D5 Dual Top Black Acetal
1x EK Supreme HF Full Nickel
1x EK-FB GA P67 (UD7) Nickel Plexi
1x EK-FC Bridge Triple Parallel
1x EK Multioption X2 Reservoir 250 Basic
20x EK Compression Fitting (1/2"ID , 3/4"OD)
6x EK High Flow Barbs 1/2"ID

photos:


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## RatDog

4 D5's, what the heck are you building a swimming pool? You going for 10 gpm+? Slight overkill


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## Levesque

I have alot of EK waterblocks: EK-6970 + another EK-6970 coming, EK-5970, EK-5870, EK Supreme HF rev 2 for CPU.

I also have 4 X EK-D5 X-Top rev 2 for my 4 MCP655 pumps.

And 1X 140mm radiator.

Pictures:


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## _craven_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RatDog;13228253*
> 4 D5's, what the heck are you building a swimming pool? You going for 10 gpm+? Slight overkill


nah man .. not for swimming pool









I need 2 of them for GPU loop ( 3 x Full cover Block + 2 x 420 rad )
the other 2 for CPU + Full board loop ( CPU Block , Full Board Block , 1 x 420 rad + 1 x 360 rad )

Actually I'm still afraid not getting enough flow from 2 pumps because of many restrictions the water has to go through


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## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RatDog;13228253*
> 4 D5's, what the heck are you building a swimming pool? You going for 10 gpm+? Slight overkill


needs moar:


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## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_craven_;13228823*
> nah man .. not for swimming pool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need 2 of them for GPU loop ( 3 x Full cover Block + 2 x 420 rad )
> the other 2 for CPU + Full board loop ( CPU Block , Full Board Block , 1 x 420 rad + 1 x 360 rad )
> 
> Actually I'm still afraid not getting enough flow from 2 pumps because of many restrictions the water has to go through


That shouldn't have any issues with 2 pumps per loop. As long as you maintain about 1.1GPM flow, your good, which I'm sure, you will be above. If you run restrictive loops, the DDC pump is better than the D5. I'm going to try a single DDC 10 watt pump for 1 CPU, 3 GPUs and 2 RX360 rads. I will eventually go to either 2 D5 or 2 DDC pumps though. It's more for redundancy if a pump fails though, than for actual flow rate.


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## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;13223535*
> I'd rather put the link near by username, way easier to navigate.


But what if someone had say 10 links? Then you would have to scroll all the way over to see the other stuff.

How about another Google Spreadsheet just for links?

EDIT: Updated.


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## RushMore1205

All mu Blocks are EK, and res

Ek 250mm Advenced x2
EK HF 1366 Nickel/Plexi
2x EKfc470 nickel+plexi
2x Back Plates nickel
1 trillple parrell bridge
1 ek evga x58 mobo kit


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## Bal3Wolf

i have a ek 5870 block runs great keeps everything cool.


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## ttoadd.nz

EK makes me happy


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## ezveedub

My EK 6990 block I just finished installing.


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## Triangle

Updated.


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## TPE-331

Getting the new RE3BE motherboard setup yesterday. Have most of my hardware setup and motherboard installed in my case. I'm still waiting for my 3rd GTX 480 to arrive, should have it by Tuesday, I already have the block and back plate for it. Also waiting on my EK triple parallel bridge to show up in the mail tomorrow. here are a few pics, more to follow.


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## ttoadd.nz

Sandy in all her glory











Old rig


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## TPE-331

@ttoadd.nz looking good bro! Looking good! Nice to see another proud ATCS 840 owner!
















Mate


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## galaxyy

Awesome:
2x FC470 GPU Blocks Acetal + Nickel
2x Acetal GPU Backplates
FC Bridge dual, parallel
CPU Supreme HF Acetal + Nickel
FB ASUS RE3 Acetal + Nickel
Multioption RES X2 - 250 Advanced


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## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331;13252796*
> @ttoadd.nz looking good bro! Looking good! Nice to see another proud ATCS 840 owner!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mate


Haha hard out! but I'm selling my case soon.







but its a case that you can stuff alot of WC gear into thats for sure!


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## BWG

EK H30 Supreme 120 LT kit minus the 120 RAD. Here is a pic. It is long, excessive tubing, but it works great.


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## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;13252840*
> Haha hard out! but I'm selling my case soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but its a case that you can stuff alot of WC gear into thats for sure!


Yes Sir! I agree! The ATCS 840 is a beast for sure! When Ivy Bridge surfaces, I am going to upgrade to a Case Labs TH10:band:

Looking at pics of your old rig, what did you do with your MIPS cooler?


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## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331;13252862*
> Yes Sir! I agree! The ATCS 840 is a beast for sure! When Ivy Bridge surfaces, I am going to upgrade to a Case Labs TH10:band:
> 
> Looking at pics of your old rig, what did you do with your MIPS cooler?


Its in a box under my bed I think LOL


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## EditeD

Nice, keep the pics posted! Just love EK products, nice overall finish!

Got a small collection of EK parts around;

- EKWB Multioption 250 Rev.1
- EKWB DDC X-Top V2

My brother in law has a huge bunch of EK parts, I'll see if he want to post some pics


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## Lolan

My EK parts.


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## mazenimad

you can count me in bought the H30-240 kit from Ek and am pretty impressed but still waiting on the case to get things started...

you guys mount the res sideways how do you manage that???


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## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331;13252751*
> Getting the new RE3BE motherboard setup yesterday. Have most of my hardware setup and motherboard installed in my case. I'm still waiting for my 3rd GTX 480 to arrive, should have it by Tuesday, I already have the block and back plate for it. Also waiting on my EK triple parallel bridge to show up in the mail tomorrow. here are a few pics, more to follow.


Ok TPE, we need an update already!!!!!! That R3E Black Ed is so sexy!! Will Ek make a MB block for it?


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## Triangle

Updated.
Sorry for being so late on updating. Been busy today.


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## UNOE

Check the link in my sig ...
I have two 570 , with parrell bridge I'm adding a memory block tomorrow or the next day. I was wondering what should be my approach to OC the ram. I know it will only be slight difference But I have had some good timings that pass in memory test but crash with high heat. Should I be able to post with slightly high memory voltage.


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## Triangle

Updated.


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## Triangle

Bump?


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## B3RGY

Probably getting a EK-DCP 2.2 12v pump, EK DCP 2.2 reservoir combo, and a EK Supreme LT CPU block once i get another....$700


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## Triangle

Updated.
Sorry for late update...


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## kazukun

EVGA X58 E770
GTX590 Quad SLI
























































[ame="



]


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## Triangle

Updated.


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## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazukun;13328439*
> EVGA X58 E770
> GTX590 Quad SLI


i cheers on my pants!


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## adamwzl

toss me into this club. Only blocks I use are EK.

EK Supreme HF Nickel/Acetal
EK Universal NB copper/Arcylic
2x EK 6970 Nickel/Acetal


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## Triangle

Updated.


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## adamwzl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13225281*
> That's why I sent a email to EK directly, as I have no faith in the reseller I got mine from here in the US (wasn't PPCs or Frozen-they don't even have the block in stock), but I'll wait and see what they say. I've ordered from EK directly also, because it seems the resellers here all just want you money, but want zero accountability for anything that comes with running a business.


I had the same thing happen to me as well. I ordered my blocks from frozencpu and the thermal pads were barely there. Luckily I had about 1mm pads left over from my koolance blocks.

There was only enough pads for everthing besides the ram







.


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## heresy

Hey there. 3 X EK-FC6970 V2 blocks for my Sapphire non reference 6970's.

EK Coolstream 360 XT rad. XSPC 750.


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## Juggalo23451

4 way classified chipset water block nickel


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## sprower

A couple random shots as it nears completion.


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## krajee

I'm a member! 5970 Copper Acetal here.


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## TPE-331

I'm working 10-12 hrs per day at my job right now and trying to spend time with the wife and kids doesn't leave me much time to play.







so, I haven't had much time to spend on my rig but, I'm pretty close to getting her done.







30 minutes here, another 30 minutes there what ever it takes to finish up I guess.


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## Artikbot

Toss me in!

EK CoolStream XT 360 + EK Supreme HF Full Copper, jet plate #2.

Will update later with a pic


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## Triangle

Updated.


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## Triangle

Bump!


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## MrJackson

I guess I can join!

EK-Supreme HF - Full Nickel w/ easy mount kit
EK-MultiOption RES X2 - 150 Advanced


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## XxGrave

FC580 GTX - Nickel + Acetal


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## svthomas

EK Supreme HF CPU Block, EK-FC6970-Acetal GPU Block, and EK 150 Reservoir.


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## yang88she

EK reservoir
EK chipset
EK Pump "thing"


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## coolhandluke41

EK FC 580 nickel/plexi
4 months old block
outside;

inside;

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=270567&page=6
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/915966-ek-fc470-gtx-nickel-block-issues.html


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## Triangle

Updated.


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## valvehead

It's awfully quiet in here. Mind if I join?

EK Supereme HF Acetal/Copper
EK CoolStream Rad XTC 420
EK DDC X-Top V2
EK Multioption X2 Res 150 Basic


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## Tinkeritis

Sign me up!

CPU Block - EK-Supreme HF Nickel
VGA Block - EK-FC GTX580 Nickel-Acetal Block x3
VGA Link - EK-FC Link GeForce x3
SLI Bridge - EK-FC Bridge DUAL Parallel 3-Slot
GPU Backplates - EK GeForce 580 GTX VGA Liquid Cooling RAM Backplate - Black (EK-FC580 GTX


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## Triangle

As now.

To join you must fill out the form that is linked in the OP.


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## Tinkeritis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *triangle*


As now.

To join you must fill out the form that is linked in the OP.


Thanks for the heads up, Mate!

Submitted


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## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13603468*
> As now.
> 
> To join you must fill out the form that is linked in the OP.


How do we update the EK items on the spreadsheet? Does filling out the spreadsheet auto update based off user name or adds another line?


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## Triangle

Do not use the form until I fix something.


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## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *triangle*


Do not use the form until I fix something.


OK, will do


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## Triangle

I PM'd all of the current members. I will see if I can do an Auto-Update thing... For now you just have to fill out the form. If you have to update something just fill it out twice and I will fix it manually.









Oh, BUMP..!









EDIT : I will add what is in this post to the OP. If I missed someone that was a member and is no longer on the form then you will just have to fill out the form, but I hope I didn't miss anyone.


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## Compaddict

Filled out and I'm on the list again.









Nice job Triangle!


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## Triangle

Thanks.







I just fixed it up yesterday.


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## Triangle

Bump..!


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## Triangle

bump


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## _craven_

My project is almost finished .. I use many EK products despite the current nickel plating problem









see my worklogs in my sig


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## Triangle

Can't wait to see the finished build..!


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## Triangle

Bumperz..!


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## _craven_

Bump for EK


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## JaRi

ill join









CPU: EK supreme HF - full copper
GPU: EK-VGA Supreme HF - copper acetal
GPU2: EK Water Blocks EK-FC460 GTX - Nickel
Fittings: 8 EK 19/13 compression fittings - mattblack


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## GhostDog99

Me Too









CPU: EK-Supreme HF High Flow Nickel/Plexi

GPU: 2 - EK-FC570/580 GTX+ Nickel

GPU Backplates: 2 - EK-FC5X0 GTX Backplate - Black

GPU FC Bridges & Links: 1 - EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Serial
1 - EK-FC Link BLANK Serial
2 - EK-FC Link GeForce

RAM Blocks: EK-RAM Dominator Nickel


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## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JaRi;14589067*
> ill join
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU: EK supreme HF - full copper
> GPU: EK-VGA Supreme HF - copper acetal
> GPU2: EK Water Blocks EK-FC460 GTX - Nickel
> Fittings: 8 EK 19/13 compression fittings - mattblack


I see you haven't filled out the form in the OP to add yourself to the spreadsheet.









https://spreadsheets.google.com/spreadsheet/viewform?hl=en_US&formkey=dEFSODduNlliMUwwTnh3MldjTHVGaWc6MQ#gid=0


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## ASO7

*Worklog*
http://foro.noticias3d.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=338654

*1st revision*

*EK Supreme HF*









*EK Coolstream XT 360*









*EK X-Top V2*









*2nd revision & sponsored by EK Waterblocks*

*EK Supreme HF VGA*


















*EK x2 Advanced 250*


















*EK Coolstream XT 480*


















*Random pics of the 1st revision*


----------



## Triangle

Looks very nice.


----------



## Atomfix

The joke club.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atomfix;14604734*
> The joke club.












Why thank you very much.


----------



## adamwzl

Just updated the form from the PM. Took me long enough


----------



## Triangle

Great..!







Bump.... No one....


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;13252774*
> Sandy in all her glory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Old rig


What size tubing did you use please PM


----------



## saer

Got my hands on a Limited Edition Performance-PCs.com EK Full Cover EVGA 4-Way SLI Block in full blood red acrylic


----------



## Shogon

that 4 way block looks amazing!


----------



## ohms

Filled out form, but just in case.

I own the following:

Supreme HF Full Cu Nickel Plated CPU block
FC-6990 & FC-6970 v1 [EN] GPU blocks
6990 and 6970 v1 back plates
GB-990-FXA UD7 [EN] motherboard block
EK Coolstream XT 360 Radiator
(2) EK 150 Advanced Reservoirs
(2) FC-Links 4X/5X
FC-Dual-link Serial Bridge
The items can be seen in my build which is in the AMD Buildlog section and in the Case Labs section.


----------



## TPE-331

Some great looking hardware you guys have there!


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer;15021895*
> Got my hands on a Limited Edition Performance-PCs.com EK Full Cover EVGA 4-Way SLI Block in full blood red acrylic


Just ordered this top, should match nicely


----------



## DirectOverkill

Never considered red good looking untill seeing this.
Ok, a Ferrari also look red as well


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Hello everyone!!!!! Nice to see other people with EK Waterblocks too!!!!!


----------



## agentsmith5150

Using an EK en Nickelplated LTx Cpu cooler, EK 150ml Res/Pump Top, along with a FC-580



I have to say. Im quite happy with the product they fit and preform excellent.


----------



## OverSightX

I had a 6970 block, but I now have coming:

2x EK-FC7970 acetal = nickel
2x EK FC Link R48X0/58X0/6970/7970
1x EK FC Bridge Triple Serial

Should be here by Thursday!


----------



## sawjai526

previous x58 rig, New x79 rig will be posted soon, waiting waterblocks to arrive from Slovenia


----------



## evolutionxxx86

I really like the Ek water blocks


----------



## axipher

I've got a EK Supreme HF Copper CPU block with black Acetyl top waiting to be installed in my rig









That plus 5x 120 mm of RAD space all for my CPU


----------



## Levesque

I now have 5X Ek-FC7970 for 5X 7970 at home (all EN nickel-plexi), and a Rampage IV block (EN-nicckel-plexi).


----------



## (sic)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sawjai526*


Looks like a copper backplate, but it's probably the nickel, right?

EK stopped plating their back plates before I could get my hands on a nickel one...








EK support said they have no intention of bringing it back on the market and I can't find them anywhere... so sad!

Either way nice set up!


----------



## sawjai526

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> Looks like a copper backplate, but it's probably the nickel, right?
> EK stopped plating their back plates before I could get my hands on a nickel one...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK support said they have no intention of bringing it back on the market and I can't find them anywhere... so sad!
> Either way nice set up!


thanks!
yup its a nickel, the lighting made it appear like that. can't source although new nickel backplate will be hard to source, I'm sure someone has a used one for sale. (used or new, both are flawless unless scratched)

frozencup has some black one, if you wanted that.


----------



## (sic)

Yeah, I have 2 FC-580 (black) in my cart, but I may hold off and look around for a pair of used nickel ones.


----------



## evolutionxxx86

I was going to get the nickel plated water blocks but the cross fire connector is a copper color


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evolutionxxx86*
> 
> 
> I was going to get the nickel plated water blocks but the cross fire connector is a copper color


Where did you get the acetal/copper ram block im looking for one but all i see is the nickel ones. Same for the motherboard block i want, i cant find the acetal/copper one trying to stay away from nickel so i don't have to even wonder about the plating issues. And one more question are the dominators the only ram the memory block will attach 2?

And so far ek hf acetal cpu block and ek 150 advanced ress


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Where did you get the acetal/copper ram block im looking for one but all i see is the nickel ones. Same for the motherboard block i want, i cant find the acetal/copper one trying to stay away from nickel so i don't have to even wonder about the plating issues.
> And so far ek hf acetal cpu block and ek 150 advanced ress


I ordered them from http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/ for my 2 7970's


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evolutionxxx86*
> 
> I ordered them from http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/ for my 2 7970's


Same with the ram block?


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Same with the ram block?


yes, Here is another place I order parts from too http://www.frozencpu.com/ hope that helps.


----------



## Rowey

Add me Triangle









FC-GTX580 Acetal/Copper & Backplate
EK PSC 1/2" x 3/4" black nickel compression fittings with rotary angles too.


----------



## R4MP4G3

Oh, I want in. I have the following:

-EK hf supreme nickel cpu block
-EK 570 second edition water block

Soon to be added:

-EK asus crosshair v motherboard block


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Waiting on a few more parts and this PC is finished.


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evolutionxxx86*
> 
> 
> Waiting on a few more parts and this PC is finished.


I may be sleeving my wires at a later time.


----------



## lowfat

EK Supreme HF Acrylic + EN and an EK-FC7970 acrylic + EN.


----------



## error-id10t

I've got the EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC580 DCII (EN), very very happy with it. One thing worth noting which I found odd was .. it didn't come with the backplate which is sold separately. Thinking of selling my 580 Lightning to get another CUII so I can match the WC.


----------



## Mraaz

Guys i've got a giant problem i can't seem to get my EK supreme cpu block watertight i think it's the O-ring but i have no idea on how to make it fit better... been working on it for 3 days now so about 18 hours and it will not work... any suggestions?


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mraaz*
> 
> Guys i've got a giant problem i can't seem to get my EK supreme cpu block watertight i think it's the O-ring but i have no idea on how to make it fit better... been working on it for 3 days now so about 18 hours and it will not work... any suggestions?


Replace the O-ring, moisten the O-ring before tightening it down.


----------



## Shogon

I had a tough time between Serial and Parallel on the Bridge, reading more I went with the parallel and find that it is pretty good. Max temp I've seen on both is ~52C after folding for over a day and a half @ 900 mhz 1.13V. Usual BF3 temps are under 43C all Ultra settings on 2560x1440, ~1300 MBs used w/ no AA/AF/Ambient Occlusion.

I wish my EVGA backplates worked on this block, I almost want to get the EK ones after seeing some peoples.


----------



## samoth777

hi im interested in getting an EK 680 DCII block for my card. Will the stock ASUS backplate be fine with it or do I have to buy the EK 680 DCII backplate that they sell?


----------



## DigitalMonkey

Can I use the original EK-FC SLI bridge and links instead of the new CSQ version on the new EK waterblocks?


----------



## Greecean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> EK Supreme HF Acrylic + EN and an EK-FC7970 acrylic + EN.


this gets my vote for the best rig in the thread

ill fill out the form later


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greecean*
> 
> this gets my vote for the best rig in the thread
> ill fill out the form later


Wait till you see the one I am working on. 










Will post pics back here in a month.


----------



## samoth777

Hi guys, I'm wondering about the EK Supremacy series blocks and their performance vs. the old Supreme range. I'm currently using an EK Supreme HF Copper-Plexi block. Is there an improvement in thermal performance? I don't mind the CSQ design hehehe


----------



## martinhal

I just got one and get around 10 C better than my old XSPC Rasa block


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martinhal*
> 
> I just got one and get around 10 C better than my old XSPC Rasa block


would you know how much better the old EK Supreme to an XSPC Rasa block is by anychance?


----------



## martinhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> would you know how much better the old EK Supreme to an XSPC Rasa block is by anychance?


From what I remember from my research before I bought it around 2 or 3 degrees.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> would you know how much better the old EK Supreme to an XSPC Rasa block is by anychance?


About 1˚C

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/05/09/i7-2600k-cpu-xspc-rasa/5/


----------



## samoth777

Hmm.. would it be fair to assume then that the new EK supremacy is 2-3c better than the EK Supreme HF? I'm having difficulty conjuring the numbers up in my head


----------



## Rickles

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc9800-gtx-sli-acetal.html

I want a 9800 gtx block, but I don't want to pay $40 in shipping









have a FC7970 block and back plate, and a XT 240. No complaints.


----------



## tiborrr12

Rickles: Where are you from?


----------



## Rickles

Michigan, I was however able to get a hold of the sales team at performance PCs and they ordered me one. Still have to work out shipping but $30 for an awesome block is fine by me


----------



## tiborrr12

Glad to hear PPCs sorted this out for you


----------



## King4x4

EK Supramacy CPU block

3x7950 EK Blocks


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Finally done


----------



## handi420

Just need to get my white psu cables and i'll be done... until i drain it then its getting more goodies!
K so, ek parts are:
CPU: EK Supremacy block (Copper base / Clear Top)
GPU: EK Supremacy Block (Copper Base / Clear Top)
Rad: EK Coolstream XTX (360 x 120 x 60)
Res: EK Multioption RES X2 , 150 Basic
Pump: DCP 4.0

w/ side pannel


Top of the case


Side


Another side Shot


----------



## jokrik

Think Ill join








CPU: | EK-Supremacy - Nickel
VGA: | EK-FC670 GTX DCII - Nickel SLI
Backplate: | EK-FC670 GTX DCII Backplate - Black SLI
Bridge: | EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Parallel CSQ Plexi
Radiator: | EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (360)
Radiator: | EK-CoolStream RAD XT (240)
Pump top: | EK-DDC Dual TOP V.2 G1/4 - Black Acetal
Reservoir: | EK-Multioption RES X2 - 150 Basic
Fitting: | EK-PSC Fitting 10mm - G1/4 E-Nickel + 45 and 90 degrees adaptors

















More pictures in my album HERE


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evolutionxxx86*
> 
> 
> 
> Finally done


Is that clear tubes and red coolant? That looks hott. What kind of mixture are you using if you don't mind me asking?


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Yes, clear tubing and Red coolant (Tygon B-44-4X 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) - "Non-Porous" Smooth Tubing and EK EKoolant Blood Red)


----------



## Starbomba

I don't really like the new circle theme of EK blocks, but i love how my EK Supreme HF look and perform.


----------



## King4x4

Nearly finished my build but here's a quick pic of the lightining arrangement:




Needs a bit more lighting on the sides and top I say.


----------



## Roxycon

Hi, I'm new to wc but have read up on almost everything and decided that I will be ordering the big parts today, res, pump, blocks and rads, all of them will be from ek except for the rads since I'm gonna use 80 mm thick ones.. I wanted to use mayhems pastel white but they are kind of hard to get to Norway since taxing is just ridiculous here, so partly decided on ekoolant blue uv, then my questions, does the coolant have any limitations with Tygon tubing? I know that mayhems don't recommend it and will one ek dcp 2.2 pumpres combo be enough for three blocks, one normal rad and two monster rads and maybe a fan controller block be enough? And can someone explain the csq bridge system, will be using two universal gpu blocks, since I'm having a bad time selling my current gpu's


----------



## King4x4

You need to open a new topic on that my dear friend.

Updated to Quadfire.


----------



## McDown

my jewel


----------



## Roxycon

Anyone here own/have experience with EK-UNI RAD holder 140? Are the holes threaded or do i need full length m3's to have fan, case, radholder, rad?


----------



## natsu2014

Does anybody know what size of oring is used for ek link? I need a pair and have no idea hat size I have to buy. Sent a mail directly to EK but no answer so far


----------



## tiborrr12

EK support sleeps at the moment (they work from 7AM-3PM CET), It's midnight here.

What type of link, which model/make?


----------



## natsu2014

So we are in the same timezone. I got that link with gtx 670 dc2 block but there was no orings so I need to buy them separately but no info anywhere about the size

I found out the right size. Still no answer from ek though


----------



## Stickeelion

EK_Tiborr since you are here would you know if it is possible to hook up 2x EK-FC7970-CSQ graphics water blocks with one of the old EK-FC Bridges? or do I need to use the new plain ones. (I prefer the old ones)


----------



## Hits9Nine

Just finishing up.


----------



## jokrik

My newly born baby
Built based on how much people hate the CSQ design
So I inserted some ideas into the build









More pic on my log


----------



## King4x4

Update.

Switched to Tri-Sli 680s.

Had this on for a time:


But CPU gasket had a leak and I had to replace it to Supreme HF version:


----------



## gill22

I guess I will Join in aswell







check the pics in my sig.


----------



## handi420

Tore mine down and re built it!


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> my jewel










Me wantssss

At last i got rid of my laziness, and uploaded the pictures of my latest update.


----------



## sivoloc

I'm in love with this block!


----------



## TommyMoore




----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Think Ill join
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU: | EK-Supremacy - Nickel
> VGA: | EK-FC670 GTX DCII - Nickel SLI
> Backplate: | EK-FC670 GTX DCII Backplate - Black SLI
> Bridge: | EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Parallel CSQ Plexi
> Radiator: | EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (360)
> Radiator: | EK-CoolStream RAD XT (240)
> Pump top: | EK-DDC Dual TOP V.2 G1/4 - Black Acetal
> Reservoir: | EK-Multioption RES X2 - 150 Basic
> Fitting: | EK-PSC Fitting 10mm - G1/4 E-Nickel + 45 and 90 degrees adaptors
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pictures in my album HERE


What coolant are you running Jokrik? Mayhem's pastel Red?


----------



## tiborrr12

Great build, keep 'em coming guys! Good pics will be featured on our social media sites!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> What coolant are you running Jokrik? Mayhem's pastel Red?


nope thats EK red blood coolant

that rig you quoted is the old one
check out the new one which has been rebuilt on my sig block
used mostly the same components but alot more modding









currently in the process of bleeding after deliding my ivy bridge


----------



## Blackops_2

Nice how have your results been with the blood red coolant? I'm looking for something that i can run at least a year and not gunk/clog up.


----------



## jokrik

If you pair it with EK product, seriously you cant get any better result
I've just opened up my EK supremacy block, and I found no gunk at all! it has been running with the same coolant for almost 8-9 months

however I am currently using a primochill advanced LRT tube, 2 months of use and the clouding appears

never been a fan of mayhem products, looks cool but really clog up you system , thats including the pastel


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TommyMoore*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Clean loop.


----------



## Elanorth

Hi everyone

For days looking for the following product.Anyone have this block?
EK-VGA Supreme HF Bridge Edition


----------



## XKaan

Hey EK owners! Do any of you know if the MCP35X pumps will work with the EK dual ddc top? EX: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27149

I'd much rather use the EK so all of my WC components match, but I want to double check before I make any orders.


----------



## tiborrr12

Yes they will.


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Yes they will.


Perfect! Rock on!


----------



## trapjaw72

Supreme HF Full- plexi-CPU WATERBLOCK
3 GTX 580-FC EK WATER-BLOCKS.-

Dominator ram block-

-2-250- x2-EK RESERVOIRS-
-
BITSPOWER-MATTBLACK FITTINGS

3 SWI
FTECH 350 PUMPS xspc - plexi-tops

2 360 rads-480-rad-240-rad all by swiftech

.


----------



## XKaan

Question if anyone knows -

I have an eK reservoir 250 X3

Am I missing something, or is the option to attach it directly to the dual DDC top not available? (adapter) I want to attach the reservoir directly to it like this pic:



The adapters don't work on the X3 revision reservoirs?


----------



## Ardi

if this is your dual top, http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/ek-d5-dual-top-g1-4-csq-black-acetal.html, then you need this link http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/ek-dual-d5-csq-x-res-link.html to attach your 150 x3 to the top.


----------



## XKaan

Actually I have this one: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10018/ex-pmp-95/EK_525_Mountable_DDC_Dual_Top_V2_-_Black_Acetal_-_Laing_DDC_Swiftech_MCP350355_EK-DDC_Dual_TOP_V2_G14_-_Black_Acetal.html#blank


----------



## Jakusonfire

The X3 reservoirs are a different size to the older versions.

ATTENTION: Due to available different tube diameters, this item is compatible only with EK-MULTIOPTION RES series (NOT RES X2).

For that pump top you need one of these
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/eol/reservoirs-accessories/accessories-spare-parts/ek-res-series/ek-multioption-link-1-g1-4.html
and an original multioption res tube + top
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/multioption-res/ek-multioption-tube-100mm.html
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/multioption-res/ek-multioption-top-w-thread.html


----------



## XKaan

^ Ok, so long story short I bought the wrong reservoir. D'oh!!

No big deal - perhaps Frozen CPU will be gracious enough to let me return it.

Or, maybe I'll stick with the X3 and just use some acrylic and fittings to connect the two.

Either way, thanks! Repped!


----------



## Ardi

The X3 250 is a very good reservoir. Can you return the top you've got and get the one made for the X3?


----------



## Tempest2000

Anyone have pictures of EK bay reservoirs installed? I just looked through every page and didn't see any. I'm finding it difficult to find any pictures of these installed, even via google


----------



## ChrisB17

Uhg I am truly frustrated with my EK waterblock mounting hardware. Brand new sealed, Took it out and the screws are completely stripped and I cannot even screw them into the mounting backplate. 2 days old and already a quality problem


----------



## vaporizer

BOOM


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz*
> 
> Sandy in all her glory


What brand tubing are you using? I'm using Primochill advance LRT and I'm trying to find a way to connect my CPU block to my ram block without kinking. I have straight compression fitting on both and when I curl mine like yours. Mine kink no matter the length of the tubing. Should I get a different brand of tubing or different fitting?


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> What brand tubing are you using? I'm using Primochill advance LRT and I'm trying to find a way to connect my CPU block to my ram block without kinking. I have straight compression fitting on both and when I curl mine like yours. Mine kink no matter the length of the tubing. Should I get a different brand of tubing or different fitting?


Try to train your tube before installing it. I have heard of using rope or a fuel line that is the same OD as the tube ID and use hot water to make it a little softer to train it. Good luck.


----------



## Akula

A k u l a V 2

Build Log - LinusTechTips

All water-cooling components from EK









http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/203/19u5.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/515/82hz.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/832/n8pi.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/gfu0.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/405/i2uk.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/442/ucu9.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/afqc.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/4/6aln.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/713/ebhy.jpg/


----------



## trapjaw72

any one selling EK back plate's for gtx 580 I need 3, nickel--for a build.....


----------



## PinzaC55

Just picked up an EK FC690 waterblock and backplate new & unused on Ebay. Full UK cost £130, cost to me [hide]£10.50[/hide]


----------



## trapjaw72

I buy all mine new at Performance-PC, I paid 128 new for EK nickel water-block's no back plate, I dont trust ebay at all been cheated few time's,


----------



## verydispleased

And for my 3rd post ( i post a too damn much for a lurker) I also want to join this club

EK Supremacy Clean Clear CSQ
EK Acetal Nickel 7970 w/ backplate
EK 240 Coolstream XT
EK X3 240 res
EK D5 Pumptop
EK compression fittings


----------



## trapjaw72

very nice set up bro I like it........


----------



## lowfat

My polished CSQ blocks. You may have seen them in the gallery thread.


----------



## trapjaw72

for people who have EK water-blocks with frosting on them, can use 200 grit sandpaper on them, in the end come out clean very nice.......


----------



## andyv

After seeing those I wish I got the clear plexi blocks instead.


----------



## Spin Cykle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> After seeing those I wish I got the clear plexi blocks instead.


My thoughts exactly. Those are simply stunning. A clear non-qsc would great too.


----------



## serafim

do you think they will fit?

HIS 7870 Iceq H787Q2G2M


EK 7870 fullcoverwaterblock


visually EK said confirm, but not my eyes

is there anyone that uses this GPU and block?


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serafim*
> 
> do you think they will fit?
> 
> HIS 7870 Iceq H787Q2G2M
> 
> 
> EK 7870 fullcoverwaterblock
> 
> 
> visually EK said confirm, but not my eyes
> 
> is there anyone that uses this GPU and block?


I just got the EK FC690 and there's a cutout section to allow for the 690 fan power and control sockets. It (just) fits but causes a tiny amount of distortion in the PCB - not enough to worry about but noticeable nonetheless.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> My polished CSQ blocks. You may have seen them in the gallery thread.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love that look. I wish I had the nerve to do that to mine. maybe I will start with the cpu block and see how it comes out.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> I love that look. I wish I had the nerve to do that to mine. maybe I will start with the cpu block and see how it comes out.


The only blocks that were hard to do are the GPU ones. The CPU block took 20 minutes with a drill, polishing compound, and a buffing pad. Not sure you could really mess it up.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> My polished CSQ blocks. You may have seen them in the gallery thread.


Sexy blocks there...


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> My polished CSQ blocks. You may have seen them in the gallery thread.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


lowfat - what process did you use on the block to remove the frosting on your CSQ blocks. I am guessing a wet sanding with various grit levels but not sure. Not brave enough to attempt with a little info up front.







Your blocks look amazing, nice work!


----------



## lowfat

Wet sand with 2000 grit thrn polish with a polishing compound.


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Wet sand with 2000 grit thrn polish with a polishing compound.


Cool, thanks for the input


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skruffs01*
> 
> Cool, thanks for the input


http://www.l3p.nl/tutorials/ek-csq-waterblocks-polishing/

You are in the EU so you should be able to get the same acrylic polish he used. For people in North America use Meguiars PlastX. The blocks and bridges I've done since look way better than the ones I posted.cgoing to have to go and redo all of them now.


----------



## fast_fate

Some great work here guys,
Waiting on some parts to arrive before I can go into final assembly
Here's a pic of my work in progress....

http://s923.photobucket.com/user/fa...otherboard loop/IMG_1249_zps95e99ccc.jpg.html

Featuring the following EK cooling products.

CPU Block - EK Supreme HF Full Nickel
GPU Blocks - 2 x EK-FC680 GTX+ Copper/Acetel
2 x EK-FC680 GTX Backplate CSQ - Black
Motherboard Block - EK-FB KIT RE4 - Acetal CSQ
RAM Blocks - 2 x EK-RAM Monarch X4 - Acetal/Nickel CSQ
Pump Top / Resi Combo - 2 x EK-D5 X-RES 140 CSQ - Acetal


----------



## trapjaw72

nice set up bro not bad at all................


----------



## nickcnse

Hey guys, I was wondering if you could answer a quick question for me. I just purchased an EK supreme water block from an ebay special and I was wondering if I could just purchase an EK supreme HF top to make it a more efficient block? Or would I need to purchase a new water block altogether? Thanks in advance. Thats the exact block I have for reference.


----------



## snef

my last build, all EK waterblock and Res


----------



## snef

oups double post


----------



## King4x4

A black and white theme I built a few weeks back:


----------



## Goofy Flow

Finally my system with EK Waterblock;


----------



## XKaan

^ Nice! I have the same board and also doing xfire - was struggling on how to make the run look clean with the south bridge block. I never thought to come out of the 2nd GPU and hit the SB - thanks!


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> my last build, all EK waterblock and Res
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love it. Someone besides me finally did purple and white lol


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> ^ Nice! I have the same board and also doing xfire - was struggling on how to make the run look clean with the south bridge block. I never thought to come out of the 2nd GPU and hit the SB - thanks!


Did you find a solution for the SB block and getting around your 7979s? I have tried a couple options but the tubing looked messy and out of place trying to navigate around the 780s. I gave up for now and installed the stock heatsink, but after my PC is running I will give it another shot.


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skruffs01*
> 
> Did you find a solution for the SB block and getting around your 7979s? I have tried a couple options but the tubing looked messy and out of place trying to navigate around the 780s. I gave up for now and installed the stock heatsink, but after my PC is running I will give it another shot.


I'm getting close to that point, so I will let you know. I'm using acrylic, and my plan is to:

out of GPU block with 90 going up, then another 90 going out toward front of case, then bend acrylic 90 into SB block, then bend acrylic 90 out of SB and into my tube reservoir.

Hope that makes sense?


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> I'm getting close to that point, so I will let you know. I'm using acrylic, and my plan is to:
> 
> out of GPU block with 90 going up, then another 90 going out toward front of case, then bend acrylic 90 into SB block, then bend acrylic 90 out of SB and into my tube reservoir.
> 
> Hope that makes sense?


Lining up the bent acrylic with no leaking sounds like fun







Good luck







Looking forward to your solution. Didnt think I would ever say it but its a bit tight now in my SM8 to attempt to water down my SB. I hate to leave that block in the box.


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skruffs01*
> 
> Lining up the bent acrylic with no leaking sounds like fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to your solution. Didnt think I would ever say it but its a bit tight now in my SM8 to attempt to water down my SB. I hate to leave that block in the box.


Looking good!









Actually, I don't think it will be all that bad! Of course, we will find out in the next couple weeks when I get to that point.


----------



## DarthBeavis

Loads of EK


----------



## Triangle

I like your tubing, sir. ^


----------



## DarthBeavis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triangle*
> 
> I like your tubing, sir. ^


That's what she said . . .but then i found out she was a he and I felt so dirty


----------



## derickwm

Whoa.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBeavis*
> 
> That's what she said . . .but then i found out she was a he and I felt so dirty


Best quote of all time!

anyway well done on the overkill, been following your build around, saw it when esther NCIX interviewed you


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBeavis*
> 
> Loads of EK


Holy...wow!!


----------



## Hauser

Hi guys !

These are what I bought, I'm trying to install them these days :

CPU : EK Supermacy Acetal
RAM : EK Ram Monarch X4 Acetal
GPU : EK - FC6990 Acetal
PUMP : EK - DCP 4.0
RES : EK - Bay Reservoir Spin CSQ
RAD1 : EK Coolstream RAD XT 240
RAD2 : EK Coolstream RAD XT 120

All connected with EK nickel fittings.

EK - Ekoolant - Blood red

Images as soon as possible when finished.


----------



## derickwm

Can't wait to see them


----------



## wermad

Just ordered a Supremacy Clean plexi/copper to retire my DD M6 and to showoff the Mayhems pastel coming in (







). Which plate do you guys recommend?

edit: looks like its J2 for lga1155


----------



## serafim

1155 use J3 for best result


----------



## 094145

here's mine too

EK supremacy CSQ CPU block
EK CSQ Ram Block
EK FC CSQ gtx670 DCU ii Block x 2
EK FC link Bridge (parallel)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serafim*
> 
> 1155 use J3 for best result


Thanks. Derick confirmed it is J3 for the newer Supremacy shipping with the four plates. Apparently, the first version came with three plates and #2 was the recommended one per the instructions.


----------



## King4x4

A friend just finished installing EKs L360 cooling kit and he changed the tubing to red... looks mighty sexy for a budget kit after the tube change!


----------



## tiborrr12

What brand tubing is that? I hope it's a proven one so you don't experience any plasticizer issues. This is why we ship those kits with rubber type tubing









All in all good looking system!


----------



## King4x4

I only use Primochill Advance LRT on all my rigs and any of my clients rigs.

Oh forgot to update my rig here:







The 3mm LEDs were a pain to try installing on the waterblocks but I will put them in next time and will do a proper rig shot.


----------



## Doug B

Just finished my build yesterday.

Supremacy Clean CSQ Nickel Acetal
FC670 GTX DCII Nickel Acetal
X-Res Top 140 CSQ Black Acetal
EK elbow fittings










Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## wermad

Got my new Supremacy in and showing off the Titan/780 blocks w/ pastel


----------



## Nester92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> BOOM


The part of this loop that goes from the Ram block to the CPU block, what angle fitting is that connected to the cpu?


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nester92*
> 
> The part of this loop that goes from the Ram block to the CPU block, what angle fitting is that connected to the cpu?


45 degree fitting on the cpu block and 90 degree in the ram block, no extensions. both are bard fittings with this collar clamp. 1/2" x 3/4" duralene tubing.


----------



## tSgt

Everything cooled by EK-Waterblock !
2x EK-Monarch 4
2x EK-FC690 + 2 EK 690 Backplate
1 EK Full Nickel CPU block
1 Mosfet Big Bang XPOWER II block


----------



## tiborrr12

Beautiful. Do you have any other pics of the system?


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Beautiful. Do you have any other pics of the system?


Thanks, here is some more


----------



## tiborrr12

Cool, picture posted in our Facebook EK Builds gallery!









For everyone who waited on the ASUS 780GTX-DC2 series Full-Cover water block have a look a this: http://www.ekwb.com/news/387/19/New-water-block-for-ASUS-DC2-series-GeForce-GTX-780-released/


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Cool, picture posted in our Facebook EK Builds gallery!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> For everyone who waited on the ASUS 780GTX-DC2 series Full-Cover water block have a look a this: http://www.ekwb.com/news/387/19/New-water-block-for-ASUS-DC2-series-GeForce-GTX-780-released/


Thanks for the shout out







Much appreciated









Do you have any news of gold plated waterblock ?


----------



## TheMasterNoob

I was wondering if an EK rep could answer my question. Are there any plans to make a GTX 780 HOF waterblock? It would be a shame to see such a card go to waste. If not, are you aware of any existing waterblocks being compatible with the HOF?


----------



## tiborrr12

@tSgt: Gold plated EK-Supremacy will probably come early September. They will be Gold Plexi Clean CSQ with Black Mounting Mechanism. We are still looking into Full Gold, no decision there yet.

@TheMasterNoob: 780GTX HOF is interesting but there is not much demand for Galaxy cards. We have some other priorities but we will keep this in mind.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> @tSgt: Gold plated EK-Supremacy will probably come early September. They will be Gold Plexi Clean CSQ with Black Mounting Mechanism. We are still looking into Full Gold, no decision there yet.


Ok nice thanks


----------



## XKaan

QQ for all the EK guys - So I have an X3 reservoir, 250. I'm attaching it to an EK dual pump top. The reservoir came with a little fitting that it says you NEED to use if utilizing the bottom port, since it is recessed.

Issue is, it's silver and on the EK site I don't see the option to buy a black one. Am I missing something.
'

In addition, are there ANY black fittings on the market that will fit in that recessed area? I'm trying to attach the reservoir to the pump top using the shortest amount of vertical space possible. I was going to use a Bitspower male\male rotary fitting which would allow me to face the reservoir in the position I want, but I tested a bitspower fitting I already have and sure enough it's a tad to big to fit in that recessed space.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> QQ for all the EK guys - So I have an X3 reservoir, 250. I'm attaching it to an EK dual pump top. The reservoir came with a little fitting that it says you NEED to use if utilizing the bottom port, since it is recessed.
> 
> Issue is, it's silver and on the EK site I don't see the option to buy a black one. Am I missing something.
> '
> 
> In addition, are there ANY black fittings on the market that will fit in that recessed area? I'm trying to attach the reservoir to the pump top using the shortest amount of vertical space possible. I was going to use a Bitspower male\male rotary fitting which would allow me to face the reservoir in the position I want, but I tested a bitspower fitting I already have and sure enough it's a tad to big to fit in that recessed space.


Silver or nickel? With the new CSQ and present blocks, I have not heard of any issues with using silver (ie kill coil). This is if you're running any newer (csq or >) EK nickel blocks. If you're using it, it pretty much can negate any warranty. But as I've said, I haven't heard of any CSQ or newer nickel block degrading. I have a big thread about this since I was one of the unlucky ones with the earlier non-en blocks. There are cases of EN blocks degrading too.


----------



## Ryanboost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBeavis*
> 
> Loads of EK


Mind telling me what tubing, coolant and lighting is used here? I love the glow of blue.


----------



## snef

im working on new project with full EK waterblock

build logs: http://www.overclock.net/t/1422107/snefs-red-poseidon

some pics

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-ek3_zpsa023110f.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-ek8_zps76c05307.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-ek7_zps3efdec0b.jpg.html

after polishing the acrylic

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-ek13_zps3fed7b08.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-ek11_zps2e3766dd.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-ek10_zpsd9233708.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-ek9_zpsada12f9f.jpg.html


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> im working on new project with full EK waterblock
> 
> build logs: http://www.overclock.net/t/1422107/snefs-red-poseidon
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> some pics
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-ek3_zpsa023110f.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-ek8_zps76c05307.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-ek7_zps3efdec0b.jpg.html
> 
> after polishing the acrylic
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-ek13_zps3fed7b08.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-ek11_zps2e3766dd.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-ek10_zpsd9233708.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-ek9_zpsada12f9f.jpg.html


Looks great snef







I think the CSQ's polished up look much better than the clear options from EK.


----------



## snef

yes, a way better, IMO

I painted my CPU waterblock
and a way better than black for my Red Poseidon, imagine with red coolant, again WOW

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-plastidip3_zps777d170d.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-plastidip4_zpsd6974019.jpg.html

and finally, GPU backplate, they will be install wirh red screw

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-plastidip2_zps0e3e0c1f.jpg.html


----------



## wermad

How do you guys take off the silver ek coin-emblem thing? I want to take it off my supremacy as its an eye sore and its upside down


----------



## snef

i use .........







, my nail

gently put my nail under and when i have just a little of nail under, i turn around the logo and you will know when you can remove it

you can use a small knife or any thin tools


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How do you guys take off the silver ek coin-emblem thing? I want to take it off my supremacy as its an eye sore and its upside down


i used an exacto knife and held my breath while doing it. just a heads up the under the tag is a different finish then the rest of the cover on my acrylic CSQ one(not frosted under the tag). i ended up putting the tag back on right side up to match my other blocks. i have taken it off and on about about 5 times and it still sticks well ( in the same circle i pulled it off from).


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Snef those blocks look gorgeous!!! Nice work.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> i used an exacto knife and held my breath while doing it. just a heads up the under the tag is a different finish then the rest of the cover on my acrylic CSQ one(not frosted under the tag). i ended up putting the tag back on right side up to match my other blocks. i have taken it off and on about about 5 times and it still sticks well ( in the same circle i pulled it off from).


I'm running clean so it shouldn't be an issue, I hope


----------



## snef

I want to say a big ***FAIL*** to EK

i tried in 2 diferent case and same thing (caselabs M8 and LD PC-V4)
i cant lock the gpu in PCIe slot because the block on GPU sit on Motherboard water block screw......serious??????? why not use the same screw as the plate on GPU (Flat head screw)

pics
http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0130_zpsc97c9390.jpg.html

and same thing for the second card lolll
http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0133_zpsd3a9cf74.jpg.html

i dont have tools to modify for using flat head screw

system
HD7970 reference
asus Maximus V extreme


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I want to say a big ***FAIL*** to EK
> 
> i tried in 2 diferent case and same thing (caselabs M8 and LD PC-V4)
> i cant lock the gpu in PCIe slot because the block on GPU sit on Motherboard water block screw......serious??????? why not use the same screw as the plate on GPU (Flat head screw)
> 
> pics
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0130_zpsc97c9390.jpg.html
> 
> and same thing for the second card lolll
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0133_zpsd3a9cf74.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> i dont have tools to modify for using flat head screw
> 
> system
> HD7970 reference
> asus Maximus V extreme


is good to know. i was looking at getting that board because i could get a EK block for it and have more gpu's then the two for sli on my M-power.


----------



## snef

maybe happen only with 7970 block and M5E block,
if you have 780 iit will work

i dont know


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skruffs01*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Looks great snef
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the CSQ's polished up look much better than the clear options from EK.


Yup. And if you spend time polishing the nickel it looks even more killer.


----------



## tiborrr12

Hey Snef, the blcok can sit on the screw, do not worry, the card still sits perfectly in the PCI-express slot.


----------



## tiborrr12

Something new for all LTX AMD (CSQ) users:

http://www.ekwb.com/news/389/19/EK-Supreme-LTX-AMD-now-with-PreciseMount/


----------



## snef

these block are just amazing
i really like the results with polish finish

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0172_zpsdb8cb13f.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0170_zpsb4ec3cd3.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0152_zpsd43fe243.jpg.html


----------



## tiborrr12

Gorgeus build, Snef!


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> these block are just amazing
> i really like the results with polish finish
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0172_zpsdb8cb13f.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0170_zpsb4ec3cd3.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0152_zpsd43fe243.jpg.html


Nice work snef


----------



## snef

Thanks guys
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Gorgeus build, Snef!


you absolutly need to do white fittings (hard tubing and soft tubing)
i dont like Monsoon and Bitspower, i can buy a brand new Ferrari for the same price......
and i cant paint fittings because when i use it with clear block........... im sure you know


----------



## Drifbau5

Here is my first buid. Went with EK supremacy and the EK DDC reservoir top. I'm going to get the clean EK waterblock for my GPU sometime in the future also.


----------



## tiborrr12

Classy!


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my first buid. Went with EK supremacy and the EK DDC reservoir top. I'm going to get the clean EK waterblock for my GPU sometime in the future also.


Really smooth looking, nice job


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Cool, picture posted in our Facebook EK Builds gallery!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For everyone who waited on the ASUS 780GTX-DC2 series Full-Cover water block have a look a this: http://www.ekwb.com/news/387/19/New-water-block-for-ASUS-DC2-series-GeForce-GTX-780-released/


Any ETA on the Classified block?


----------



## tiborrr12

Drawings were done yesterday, we should have sample in about a week or so. If all goes according to plan we will have block out by late September!


----------



## wermad

What's the recommended jet plate for Haswell lga1150? I currently have the LGA1155 recommended plate (I believe #3, was already inserted).

edit: Have a Supremacy Clean.


----------



## Drifbau5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Classy!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Really smooth looking, nice job


Thanks guys







. Ill post an update when I get the gpu block.

Really liking the supremacy so far. I have a question though. I can see one small black piece of debris from my rad on the EK block. I did do a proper rad flush but i guess that one got away.

Could that somehow damage my block? Is it something I should take care of right now or can I wait till the next time I drain my loop? I'm afraid of maybe some sort of corrosion.


----------



## tiborrr12

Hey. That chunk will not harm your block, but it will certainly block your jet (nozzle) causing drop in flow. Maybe a small chunk will not cause a significant junk but - if you have a cup of coffee by hand and you can spare 30 minutes i would drain and dissasemble it.

If you are using a pre-mixed coolant you can filter it through coffee filter to remove any other debris that you coolant has picked up 








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What's the recommended jet plate for Haswell lga1150? I currently have the LGA1155 recommended plate (I believe #3, was already inserted).
> 
> edit: Have a Supremacy Clean.


Yes, J3 is the best for LGA-1155 Ivy Bridge as well as Sandy Bridge CPUs. LGA-1150 is a tad different story - the best jet for running Haswell is J1. Check this out: http://www.ekwb.com/news/383/19/Plethora-of-reviews-surface-EK-reigns-supreme/


----------



## wermad

^^^ Thanks, +1

Looking at the graphs, is J1 recommended if I go naked?


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Drawings were done yesterday, we should have sample in about a week or so. If all goes according to plan we will have block out by late September!


will it also have a backplate, trying to decide between buying msi lightning or a classified. could you show some pics or more info?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^ Thanks, +1
> 
> Looking at the graphs, is J1 recommended if I go naked?


Yes, that is correct.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> will it also have a backplate, trying to decide between buying msi lightning or a classified. could you show some pics or more info?


We will also make backplate for it, yes. Sorry, no pictures at the time, but I can tell you that both blocks will be made as light as possible in order to minimize the sagging of the cards. Directly water cooled VRM and made from a single piece of copper. I personally like Lightning better due to smaller size but I like Classified's due to the choice of MOSFETs (same construction as on HD7970 reference cards).


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^ Thanks, +1
> 
> Looking at the graphs, is J1 recommended if I go naked?


should this not be J2 for haswell?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> should this not be J1 for haswell?


It's for both:


----------



## pilotter

We will also make backplate for it, yes. Sorry, no pictures at the time, but I can tell you that both blocks will be made as light as possible in order to minimize the sagging of the cards. Directly water cooled VRM and made from a single piece of copper. I personally like Lightning better due to smaller size but I like Classified's due to the choice of MOSFETs (same construction as on HD7970 reference cards).[/quote]

thanks, will wait for some pics, before I make the decision.

eagerly waiting for pics


----------



## Samurai707

Just ordered my 780DC2 nickel block and backplate to go along with my current build, will be my third EK block!
Also bought a pre-owned EK 120CoolStream rad to add to the rig as well!



Don't mind the cables -___- I have to figure a good way to hide em all!


----------



## tiborrr12

This might interest you, EK clubbers








http://www.ekwb.com/news/393/19/EK-releases-CoolStream-PE-series-radiators/


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> This might interest you, EK clubbers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/393/19/EK-releases-CoolStream-PE-series-radiators/


nice, but not what I was hoping for







( pics of msi and classy 780 waterblocks )


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

I want in this club!


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> I want in this club!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1651408/[/IMG]


nice:thumb:


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> This might interest you, EK clubbers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/393/19/EK-releases-CoolStream-PE-series-radiators/


Building a review rig for my website... this might be what I need (480 rad+2600 rpm fans)!

Love the design too.

Wish that EK developed some form of screw protection so my clients won't bunch a hole in their rads every once in awahile.


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> This might interest you, EK clubbers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/393/19/EK-releases-CoolStream-PE-series-radiators/
> 
> Very nice indeed. Will you also still make the block for the asus formula VI? Their Crosschill is made from anodized aluminium, and I don't think I can mix that with my EK blocks.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> I want in this club!


Looks great, don't forget to show us final pics of the build!









@pilotter: Yes, M6F block is also in the works.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Looks great, don't forget to show us final pics of the build!


Oh, you know it!


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> @pilotter: Yes, M6F block is also in the works.


GREAT, just bought the classy 780 GTX ( lightning was in my view not worth the extra money ). So now it's waiting for the blocks to arrive for the 780gtx classy and the formula.

Formula block will only be VRM ? So we can leave the armor...


----------



## tiborrr12

Formula is going to be such block that will cool both MOSFET and PCH, yet one will be able to retain armor


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Formula is going to be such block that will cool both MOSFET and PCH, yet one will be able to retain armor



















Tiborr, thanks you made my day...... any change on a eta ( tiny ).......


----------



## wermad

I take it the chipset will be a plate (passive) attached to the block? Similar to the z87 oc?

Speaking of GB, any hint of the Sniper5 block? Its been mentioned it will look like the z87 oc block.


----------



## AbidingDude

Just ordered my 360mm rad
so stoked


----------



## King4x4

Any water blocks that Fit an Asrock X79 Champion?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Any water blocks that Fit an Asrock X79 Champion?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Any water blocks that Fit an Asrock X79 Champion?


Keep the extreme 11,there's a mips block set for it.


----------



## King4x4

I don't have an extreme 11


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> I don't have an extreme 11


What happened to the one your friend bought?


----------



## King4x4

Its an x79 champion!


----------



## Squashie

EK dont make at least:
http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I take it the chipset will be a plate (passive) attached to the block? Similar to the z87 oc?
> 
> Speaking of GB, any hint of the Sniper5 block? Its been mentioned it will look like the z87 oc block.


No, M6F will be something unique most likely.

G1.Sniper 5 will look 99% like OC Force block as the board are fairly similiar (only few caps and coils positioned elsewhere).

We will have EK-FC780 GTX Jetstream (previously called EK-FC780 GTX GW) out on Monday, the same with EK-FB ASUS M6E (finally).


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> GREAT, just bought the classy 780 GTX ( lightning was in my view not worth the extra money ). So now it's waiting for the blocks to arrive for the 780gtx classy and the formula.


just got mine last night. Can't wait to get these beast on water. On air it already does 300MHz more than my crappy reference cards.


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> just got mine last night. Can't wait to get these beast on water. On air it already does 300MHz more than my crappy reference cards.


and then they have something for the Formula coming as well.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Im in, Supremacy CPU block, Monarch RAM modules and D5 EX-Res Top 140 CSQ.


----------



## inedenimadam

Could you guys with a xfx series radiator throw a couple good names/models of fans that blow hard but won't blow out my pocket book or my eardrums? That thing is so fat there has to be some fans it favors over regular fans, and I already have enough crappy loud fans around.


----------



## Akula

I'll be grabbing two of the new 240 PE Radiator's as soon as they hit stores in Australia, for my newest build









http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/56428-project-mercury/?p=761943


----------



## tiborrr12

Gardnersphotos: Looks great!







I still have my G5 to mod. I only gutted out the internals and got mATX tray from Lian Li, but that was about all my progress done so far. Not enough time


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Gardnersphotos: Looks great!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have my G5 to mod. I only gutted out the internals and got mATX tray from Lian Li, but that was about all my progress done so far. Not enough time


thanks, I am working on my G4 and G5 right now


----------



## tiborrr12

EK-FB M6E is here: http://www.ekwb.com/news/395/19/EK-introduces-ASUS-Maximus-VI-Extreme-water-block/


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> EK-FB M6E is here: http://www.ekwb.com/news/395/19/EK-introduces-ASUS-Maximus-VI-Extreme-water-block/


wow, next m6F?


----------



## tiborrr12

M6G should be out next week, M6F is in the works, yes.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> M6G should be out next week, M6F is in the works, yes.


Are you guys updating the Supremacy? Because both FrozenCPU and Performance-PCs, last I checked, were out of both the copper/plexi and nickel/plexi versions of the block.


----------



## tiborrr12

Nop, that is not the case. Probably just high demand.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> M6G should be out next week, M6F is in the works, yes.


M6F block will be compatible with armor?


----------



## tiborrr12

Sure it will. Otherwise there is no point in doing it. One could get a Hero board, which is virtually more or less a Formula board w/o armor.


----------



## tiborrr12

Did someone say gold? http://www.ekwb.com/news/396/19/EK-adds-gold-plated-EK-Supremacy-to-the-lineup/


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Did someone say gold? http://www.ekwb.com/news/396/19/EK-adds-gold-plated-EK-Supremacy-to-the-lineup/


Nice







For me this is the only way I would build with the gold theme mobo's. Any plans for matching GPU or mobo blocks?


----------



## snef

wowww need it for my current project,

any chance to have GPU and ram block in gold?????


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Did someone say gold? http://www.ekwb.com/news/396/19/EK-adds-gold-plated-EK-Supremacy-to-the-lineup/


I raped violently my paypal account and placed an order for it.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> I raped violently my paypal account and placed an order for it.


@tSgt: Haven't laughed so hard for quite a while!









Regarding the gold-plated FC blocks. This is very sketchy, maybe we'll do it for e.g. EK-FC Titan SE block in very limited numbers. You could expect the price of about 160€ per block instead of usual 100€.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> @tSgt: Haven't laughed so hard for quite a while!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding the gold-plated FC blocks. This is very sketchy, maybe we'll do it for e.g. EK-FC Titan SE block in very limited numbers. You could expect the price of about 160€ per block instead of usual 100€.


Can you wait October to release it then ? So I can buy 4 of those for my quad-titans build. Gonna be expensive to buy 640€ only in blocks. I might go with 2 Titan only instead.

Glad you had a good laugh btw







My pleasure.


----------



## King4x4

Just finished rebuilding my rig... AGAIN


----------



## Squashie

*Final photos:*




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















If u wanna see what i had to do to make my Universal GPU blocks work, check my BUILD LOG


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squashie*
> 
> *Final photos:*


Looks like a video cards about to snap !!


----------



## tiborrr12

EK-FC780 GTX Jetstream is out!
http://www.ekwb.com/news/397/19/Another-Full-Cover-water-block-released-EK-FC780-GTX-Jetstream/


----------



## hyooga

I would like to know when do the EVGA 780 GTX Classy block will be available for purchase? I read that the design drawing is done


----------



## tiborrr12

Probably early October.


----------



## inedenimadam

I had every intention of joining this club today...but UPS had other intentions.

I guess I wont be taking a shower tomorrow before 10:30


----------



## wermad

Any eta on the clear Clean bridges?


----------



## pilotter

in house;

asus VI formula Check








Evga 780 GTx classy Check









on hold and waiting ( with patience







) for EK blocks.


----------



## inedenimadam

I got my "Supremacy 360HFX" kit installed with the naked ivy mount for my 3570k installed last night. Max temp=47C during P95 at 45x @1.096. I have not even used the CLU on the die yet, just the GELID stuff that came in the kit. EK FTW! That is a 40C drop over a zalman 212 style air cooler. Color me amazed.


----------



## tiborrr12

Told you all, naked Ivy works like a boss!


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Told you all, naked Ivy works like a boss!


It does! I am debating pulling it back off and putting CLU on the die. This is my first loop, and I did not expect to get 100% success with no leakage on the first attempt, so I was going to save the CLU until I had all the kinks worked out...but there were no kinks...


----------



## tSgt

Packaging of the Gold Plated block revealing a full gold version ?


----------



## tiborrr12

It's an option for the future


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> It's an option for the future


I unboxed it and damn, what a good looking block ! I really enjoy it. Hopefully you'll release an FC-Titan block compatible with 780/Titan gold plated soon enough


----------



## derickwm

With enough demand anything is possible


----------



## Drifbau5

Ohh dangit i might have to get that gold supremacy. gold would be perfect for my build. Would be cool if some gpu blocks were gold too.


----------



## tiborrr12

@Drifbau: Maybe they will!







Very limited numbers though (<100).


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> @Drifbau: Maybe they will!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very limited numbers though (<100).


When ? I want a date !
I'd love to buy one right now


----------



## inedenimadam

Anybody else here have a dcp 4.0? I cant get this thing to recognize the speed signal from my motherboard. I have it plugged into molex, and have it plugged into a 3-fan header with the solo yellow wire...The motherboard recognizes that it is plugged in because it shows the RPM's...but the pump stays at 1880RPMs when change the settings.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Told you all, naked Ivy works like a boss!


I bended my cpu socket pin since I didnt know that you dont have to tighten the block all the way with the naked ivy
but it still work perfectly after I un tighten it a bit

maybe EK should mention that in the manual?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Told you all, naked Ivy works like a boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bended my cpu socket pin since I didnt know that you dont have to tighten the block all the way with the naked ivy
> but it still work perfectly after I un tighten it a bit
> 
> maybe EK should mention that in the manual?
Click to expand...

wait...how exactly did you bend the pin?


----------



## Squashie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Anybody else here have a dcp 4.0? I cant get this thing to recognize the speed signal from my motherboard. I have it plugged into molex, and have it plugged into a 3-fan header with the solo yellow wire...The motherboard recognizes that it is plugged in because it shows the RPM's...but the pump stays at 1880RPMs when change the settings.


The solo wire is reading RPMs only. You cannot adjust speed with this one...

To adjust speed you need to connect the pump to a fancontroller/pumpcontroller, or recable the pump so it has only the 3pin connector and adjust from motherboard. Personally i have the pump on molex and monitor RPMs with my LamptronCW611, alarm set to go of if pump read 0 RPMs. My experience is that the CW611 might not start some fans imideatly at boot so i choose to have fixed voltage on my pump.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> wait...how exactly did you bend the pin?


Overtightened the block, since there is no HIS with the naked ivy
the cpu would put pressure on the motherboard pin if you overtightened it


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squashie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Anybody else here have a dcp 4.0? I cant get this thing to recognize the speed signal from my motherboard. I have it plugged into molex, and have it plugged into a 3-fan header with the solo yellow wire...The motherboard recognizes that it is plugged in because it shows the RPM's...but the pump stays at 1880RPMs when change the settings.
> 
> 
> 
> The solo wire is reading RPMs only. You cannot adjust speed with this one...
> 
> To adjust speed you need to connect the pump to a fancontroller/pumpcontroller, or recable the pump so it has only the 3pin connector and adjust from motherboard. Personally i have the pump on molex and monitor RPMs with my LamptronCW611, alarm set to go of if pump read 0 RPMs. My experience is that the CW611 might not start some fans imideatly at boot so i choose to have fixed voltage on my pump.
Click to expand...

The thing is the loudest component in my case...really want to get it toned down....maybe just an inline controller that I can set and forget. This thing is 18w, and my motherboard is only rated for 12w per fan controller. I am not sure 100% what would happen..it either would not run at all, or blow out the controller...either way, hooking into the mobo is a nogo :/

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> wait...how exactly did you bend the pin?
> 
> 
> 
> Overtightened the block, since there is no HIS with the naked ivy
> the cpu would put pressure on the motherboard pin if you overtightened it
Click to expand...

If you bent pins, it was not from over tightening. The kit is designed to be all the way screwed down. You might not have had the cpu lined up properly and bent a pin when you locked it down. It is not the fault of EK's block from what I can tell.


----------



## Squashie

Do you have the pump mounted directly to the case or do you have some kind of padding in-between? There is affordable fan-controllers that can handle 18w but you would have to rewire to 3-pin connector. Fans can be tuned down by adding a resistor, maybe pump can as well. A bit out on deep water here so i let someone else answer that one. Your pump should be able to run at 8v.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squashie*
> 
> Do you have the pump mounted directly to the case or do you have some kind of padding in-between? There is affordable fan-controllers that can handle 18w but you would have to rewire to 3-pin connector. Fans can be tuned down by adding a resistor, maybe pump can as well. A bit out on deep water here so i let someone else answer that one. Your pump should be able to run at 8v.


It is mounted inside the 5.25 bay with the thicker foam padding underneath. probably being closer to the bottom of the case would have prevented some of the vibrations, but that was not an option with my current set up, but it might be in the future. I probably will go after some sort of controller, its just too noisy.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> wait...how exactly did you bend the pin?
> 
> 
> 
> Overtightened the block, since there is no HIS with the naked ivy
> the cpu would put pressure on the motherboard pin if you overtightened it
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you bent pins, it was not from over tightening. The kit is designed to be all the way screwed down. You might not have had the cpu lined up properly and bent a pin when you locked it down. It is not the fault of EK's block from what I can tell.
Click to expand...

This.

The whole purpose of the Naked Ivy kit is to allow you to tighten it down all the way without having to worry about breaking anything.


----------



## snef

just finished my Red Poseidon

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-7_zpsd2aeab23.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-8_zpsee036d95.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-5_zpsbcf9d23b.jpg.html

CSQ polished are awsome


----------



## derickwm

Nice one snef


----------



## inedenimadam

Now that it is not 80F at night here in Georgia, I changed out the gelid for some CLU..and gave it an hour of P95...It is a brisk 20C (68F) down here tonight.

The results are stupid low...I mean stupid.... As a side experiment, for the last few minutes I set a cup of hot coffee right in front of the intake fans...still barely scratched 40C.

Lovin' this naked ivy mount.


----------



## pilotter

derick, any news about the waterblock for the 780 GTX classy ( I see the lightning was planned for mid sept... )? Uhhhmm How is the Asus VI formula block coming?

And do you know ( maybe from a build ) if the trident X memory or corsair vengeance pro is easy to watercool, will you make CSQ less x4 block for this. I have only 2 banks of memory 1 in slot and 1 in slot 3 so I should use the x4?

sorry for the questions, but I am just waiting for this blocks to start/finish my build with EKWB cooling.


----------



## DampMonkey

Snapped some perty pics of my supremacy elite


----------



## MiiX

I just noticed this:

Anyone know anything about the fullcover? All I found was this: http://www.ekwb.com/news/364/19/


----------



## tiborrr12

I'll show you the pics once I get the sample in my hands. It's basically built around the Supremacy core.

Also this just in: http://www.ekwb.com/news/399/19/EK-working-on-a-white-block-for-a-white-card-KFA-GTX-780-Hall-Of-Fame/
Quote:


> EK Water Blocks, Ljubljana based premium water cooling gear manufacturer, is working on a new Full Cover water blocks for KFA² customized GALAXY Hall Of Fame white PCB design NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 780 series graphics cards.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> Snapped some perty pics of my supremacy elite


Looks mighty fine! Got pics of the whole system?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> derick, any news about the waterblock for the 780 GTX classy ( I see the lightning was planned for mid sept... )? Uhhhmm How is the Asus VI formula block coming?
> 
> And do you know ( maybe from a build ) if the trident X memory or corsair vengeance pro is easy to watercool, will you make CSQ less x4 block for this. I have only 2 banks of memory 1 in slot and 1 in slot 3 so I should use the x4?
> 
> sorry for the questions, but I am just waiting for this blocks to start/finish my build with EKWB cooling.


780 Classy will be previewed tomorrow and ordering starting soon after.

MVIF is on the back burner at the moment.

I've never personally used Trident X but I believe the fins do come off? Those might work very easily with our RAM blocks but have not been tested by us. The vengeance requires you to buy our EK-RAM Monarch Modules to slip on them and use as the heatsinks with our RAM blocks.

Yes you will need an X4 blocks for memory in 1 & 3.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Also this just in: http://www.ekwb.com/news/399/19/EK-working-on-a-white-block-for-a-white-card-KFA-GTX-780-Hall-Of-Fame/


Mind if I ask why a block for this card ? The HOF 780 is kinda... sucky :/

Nevermind, didn't knew that KFA was a brand of graphics card. Thought it was about the galaxy version.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Mind if I ask why a block for this card ? The HOF 780 is kinda... sucky :/


How so? Seems like a rather good card to me. Plus they aren't ridiculously wide like other non reference cards out there.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Also this just in: http://www.ekwb.com/news/399/19/EK-working-on-a-white-block-for-a-white-card-KFA-GTX-780-Hall-Of-Fame/
> 
> 
> 
> Mind if I ask why a block for this card ? The HOF 780 is kinda... sucky :/
> 
> Nevermind, didn't knew that KFA was a brand of graphics card. Thought it was about the galaxy version.
Click to expand...

KFA = Galaxy

Block will fit both "variations" of the card.

AFAIK the HOF is a pretty decent card overall. We have blocks for both the two "big players", the Lightning and Classy. Our Thinkcell users are always asking for variation so here it is. This way people who love the white PCB (like myself  ) can have watercooling as well.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I'll show you the pics once I get the sample in my hands. It's basically built around the Supremacy core.


Awesome, I will be stalking this thread for pictures


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> This way people who love the white PCB (like myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) can have watercooling as well.


and myself,
for sure you already have a client for 2 of these block


----------



## pilotter

780 Classy will be previewed tomorrow and ordering starting soon after.

MVIF is on the back burner at the moment.

I've never personally used Trident X but I believe the fins do come off? Those might work very easily with our RAM blocks but have not been tested by us. The vengeance requires you to buy our EK-RAM Monarch Modules to slip on them and use as the heatsinks with our RAM blocks.

Yes you will need an X4 blocks for memory in 1 & 3.[/I]

Thanks Derrick, saw the info on the evga forum. Will check and hope the sneak peak arrives









about the MVIF on the back burner, lol thought it had something to do with your production process, but it seems it means delayed ( halted?) Might only use a cpu block then.

By using a x4 block for memory, and only using 2 slots will it give a lot of heat loss?


----------



## Recr3ational

Hey guys,
Just about to pull the trigger on some EK blocks.

What is better parallel or serial?

Also what link do I need to be compatible with this: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-bridge-dual-serial-csq.html

Thanks guys!


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Just about to pull the trigger on some EK blocks.
> 
> What is better parallel or serial?


I think the general consensus is that serial provides slightly better temperatures (emphasis on slightly) but parallel has less pressure restriction. What does the rest of your loop look like? It might help in determining if serial or parallel would be best.


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Just about to pull the trigger on some EK blocks.
> 
> What is better parallel or serial?
> 
> Also what link do I need to be compatible with this: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-bridge-dual-serial-csq.html
> 
> Thanks guys!


In general there will be not too much difference in temps between dual parallel or series block. The flow in the two GPU blocks in parallel will be reduced compared to series, but this should't really effect temps. The more GPUs you have in parallel the more reduction in flow you get.

In series the second card will be a little hotter than the first (warmer water input). There are a couple threads here on OCN regarding this in a bit more detail.

Depending on your setup will be the determining factor. Too much flow does't hurt (or gives diminishing returns), too less flow and you really start to see the increase in temps. If you can get around 1.5-2 GPM in your setup, then running a dual parallel GPU block will work just fine.

If you have enough flow, then choose which looks best to you. Parallel for me


----------



## Roxycon

Anyone know restriction values for ek supremacy with the jetplate for lga1155 and the values for reference gtx 680 bllocks ? Are they similar to eachother?


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skruffs01*
> 
> In general there will be not too much difference in temps between dual parallel or series block. The flow in the two GPU blocks in parallel will be reduced compared to series, but this should't really effect temps. The more GPUs you have in parallel the more reduction in flow you get.
> 
> In series the second card will be a little hotter than the first (warmer water input). There are a couple threads here on OCN regarding this in a bit more detail.
> 
> Depending on your setup will be the determining factor. Too much flow does't hurt (or gives diminishing returns), too less flow and you really start to see the increase in temps. If you can get around 1.5-2 GPM in your setup, then running a dual parallel GPU block will work just fine.
> 
> If you have enough flow, then choose which looks best to you. Parallel for me


Thanks for that mate, very informative









Just learning the ropes.
Rep +


----------



## lowfat

So it seems there will be no clear Classified blocks. I guess it was a good thing I ditched mine. Couldn't go having an non-matching system.


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Thanks for that mate, very informative
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just learning the ropes.
> Rep +


No prob...Glad it helped!


----------



## tiborrr12

Ya'all seen this right? EK-FC780 GTX Classy and EK-FB GA G1.Sniper 5.

Regarding FC780 GTX Classy: Before anyone asks why the VDD (memory) VRM isn't actively cooled - it's not necassery. Under 2 hours Furmark full-load it barely reaches 65°C and these have a threshold at 120°C. We calculated the estimated TDP before finalizing the design and talked with EVGA R&D about this and they said it's perfectly fine as well. The longer block would just skyrocket the costs.


----------



## MiiX

No sign of the Impact block yet?


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Ya'all seen this right? EK-FC780 GTX Classy and EK-FB GA G1.Sniper 5.
> 
> Regarding FC780 GTX Classy: Before anyone asks why the VDD (memory) VRM isn't actively cooled - it's not necassery. Under 2 hours Furmark full-load it barely reaches 65°C and these have a threshold at 120°C. We calculated the estimated TDP before finalizing the design and talked with EVGA R&D about this and they said it's perfectly fine as well. The longer block would just skyrocket the costs.


So hows the R9 290x block comin along?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> No sign of the Impact block yet?


Waiting for prototype to arrive in office for a preview!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Ya'all seen this right? EK-FC780 GTX Classy and EK-FB GA G1.Sniper 5.
> 
> Regarding FC780 GTX Classy: Before anyone asks why the VDD (memory) VRM isn't actively cooled - it's not necassery. Under 2 hours Furmark full-load it barely reaches 65°C and these have a threshold at 120°C. We calculated the estimated TDP before finalizing the design and talked with EVGA R&D about this and they said it's perfectly fine as well. The longer block would just skyrocket the costs.
> 
> 
> 
> So hows the R9 290x block comin along?
Click to expand...

It's comin


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Waiting for prototype to arrive in office for a preview!










Finally getting some of my older parts sold letting my buy new ;>


----------



## tiborrr12

ASUS just confirmed that their R9-280X MATRIX is the same card as the HD7970 MATRIX Platinum therefore our EK-FC7970 Matrix block will fit this card perfectly.

Plus there's no visual indication of the model so I hope there will be no complains regarding the markings like they were with the Titan/GTX 780 a couple of months ago.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Could anyone tell my by experience if any of the EK blocks does fit the Gigabyte GTX 780 OC rev1.0 card ?
@ stock it does come with the windforce 3 cooler, and im not all that sure what kind of block to order, as this is my first venture in the land of watercooling id hate to order the wrong block and end up with a 100€ paperweight.
I already checked the www.ekwb.com cooling configurator and it seems the titan and titan SE blocks should fit, but as i said I am not sure.



this is the pcb of my card, if anyone could give me the all good sign I could go ahead and order a block.
And if I plan on running it in the loop with swiftech H220 it there a best one for it ? like acetal or nickel or acetal+nickel or is it just the visuals? thanks


----------



## derickwm

If cooling configurator says it's compatible then you'll be able to order it and try it "risk free".

If you find it doesn't fit, we can offer you a refund as long as the block is in good shape (no scratches or anything). And a nice attitude when contacting support is always a bonus


----------



## snef

quick question

any ETA on GTX780 HOF block?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Could anyone tell my by experience if any of the EK blocks does fit the Gigabyte GTX 780 OC rev1.0 card?


Rev. 1.0 is a reference design PCB, so EK-FC Titan or Titan SE block will fit.
Rev. 2.0 is non-reference PCB design, no FC block is available for it.

Regarding the HOF, most likely it will hit the shelves in about 15-20 days.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Rev. 1.0 is a reference design PCB, so EK-FC Titan or Titan SE block will fit.
> Rev. 2.0 is non-reference PCB design, no FC block is available for it.


Thank You kind sir, will be placing my order tonight =)


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Regarding the HOF, most likely it will hit the shelves in about 15-20 days.


Thanks


----------



## tiborrr12

M6G blocks for VI Gene and -Hero boards are finally available. Sorry for the waiting. It was a crazy summer.

PR: http://www.ekwb.com/news/401/19/EK-introduces-ASUS-Maximus-VI-Gene-Hero-MOSFET-water-blocks/


----------



## clone38

Any eta on the Asus rampage extreme Black edition waterblocks yet mate?


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clone38*
> 
> Any eta on the Asus rampage extreme Black edition waterblocks yet mate?


lol, the board is not even out yet


----------



## clone38

Don't ask don't get


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clone38*
> 
> Don't ask don't get


That's very true ^^


----------



## derickwm

You can probably expect it 2-3 weeks after release of the board. *rough estimate don't quote me on this*


----------



## Ovrclck

How are the EK-FC780 GTX Classy's looking so far? When can we expect them to hit the shelves?


----------



## clone38

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You can probably expect it 2-3 weeks after release of the board. *rough estimate don't quote me on this*


Cool thanks mate


----------



## pilotter

Does not fit on the Asus Formula VI?


----------



## derickwm

It does not.


----------



## hyooga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> How are the EK-FC780 GTX Classy's looking so far? When can we expect them to hit the shelves?


I am wondering when this will hit the shelves as well, been waiting! Hoping it will be available this week


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyooga*
> 
> [quote name="BGKris" url="/t/993624/ek-club/420#post_20939965"]How are the EK-FC780 GTX Classy's looking so far? When can we expect them to hit the shelves?


I am wondering when this will hit the shelves as well, been waiting! Hoping it will be available this week







[/QUOTE]

Fingers crossed! It's the missing piece to my build. Running delidded chip on stock HSF. Doh!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 4


----------



## derickwm

We're also hoping its this week, but some things with manufacturing just aren't in our control. We'll keep everyone posted with updates.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We're also hoping its this week, but some things with manufacturing just aren't in our control. We'll keep everyone posted with updates.


No worries! Thanks for the update.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 4


----------



## pilotter

First block in......












And the "tricolore" in early build state; mesh has been painted black







waiting for 780 GTX classy waterblock, and the maybe Asus maximus VI block??









Just to be sure, there is no full nickel monarch x4, only acetal and acrylic?


----------



## clone38

Can I ask what type of tops will the black edition rampage 4 have will it be the circles again?


----------



## tiborrr12

Blocks will most likely be available in both versions - Original CSQ and revised, Clean CSQ.

@pilotter: Looks great, eager to see more!








No, Monarch is not available in full metal version.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Blocks will most likely be available in both versions - Original CSQ and revised, Clean CSQ.
> 
> @pilotter: Looks great, eager to see more!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, Monarch is not available in full metal version.


Any info if the 7970 Matrix block will fit the 280X Matrix? From the pics, the DC2 looks like a reference 280X (reference 7970) and not like the DC2 7970. The 280X Matrix looks very identical to its 7970 Matrix clone.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Blocks will most likely be available in both versions - Original CSQ and revised, Clean CSQ.
> 
> @pilotter: Looks great, eager to see more!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, Monarch is not available in full metal version.
> 
> 
> 
> Any info if the 7970 Matrix block will fit the 280X Matrix? From the pics, the DC2 looks like a reference 280X (reference 7970) and not like the DC2 7970. The 280X Matrix looks very identical to its 7970 Matrix clone.
Click to expand...

Asus has confirmed they have the exact same layout, the 7970 Matrix block will fit the 280X Matrix perfectly


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Asus has confirmed they have the exact same layout, the 7970 Matrix block will fit the 280X Matrix perfectly


Thanks bud







.


----------



## ooostephen

Can anyone tell me if the EK Supremacy can take 3/4OD compression fittings?


----------



## tiborrr12

Yes, it can.


----------



## ooostephen

Cool. I've been spec'n out this loop for weeks and already bought a couple 3/4OD fittings to test with, and I'd like to stick with them. This is for a mini-ITX build, so space is tight and requires a lot of planning.


----------



## Zapee995

Hello and Greetings from Greece! I am a new member and i own some watercool staff by ek.









Cpu Block: EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Acetal+Nickel

Gpu Block: EK-FC Titan SE - Nickel

Rads: EK-CoolStream RAD XT 240 + EK-CoolStream RAD XT 360


----------



## Witchdoctor

Could not get into the spread sheet ?

But here are the EK products I used in my build, specs in sig

They are all working above expectation, great job EK would use again









2- GPU Blocks = EK Geforce GTX Titan VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Acetal
2- GPU Back Plates = EK Geforce GTX Titan VGA Liquid Cooling RAM Backplate - Black
1- CPU Block = EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Acetal
1- GPU Res = EK-D5 XRES Top 100 CSQ (250mm extension)
1- CPU Res = EK-D5 XRES Top 140 CSQ


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zapee995*
> 
> Hello and Greetings from Greece! I am a new member and i own some watercool staff by ek.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cpu Block: EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Acetal+Nickel
> 
> Gpu Block: EK-FC Titan SE - Nickel
> 
> Rads: EK-CoolStream RAD XT 240 + EK-CoolStream RAD XT 360


Welcome to OCN







Don't forget to fill out your rig information in your signature.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig/0_40


----------



## Yakikuze

hi, check out my worklog, currently using moded h50 with swiftech res, but EKWB True WC stuff have been order, more updates coming soon.








http://www.overclock.net/t/1423648/magnus-opus-2-0-sff-build/20


----------



## derickwm

Can't wait to see the next stage


----------



## tiborrr12

Got something fresh for your, EK clubbers:

The EK-FC780 GTX Lightning. Will be available for purchase next week.


----------



## hyooga

How's the 780 Classy block going? Any words on when it will be available? Hope it is coming soon cause it is the only missing piece


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyooga*
> 
> How's the 780 Classy block going? Any words on when it will be available? Hope it is coming soon cause it is the only missing piece


+1


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyooga*
> 
> How's the 780 Classy block going? Any words on when it will be available? Hope it is coming soon cause it is the only missing piece


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> +1


+1


----------



## tiborrr12

It's done, waiting for the pics to be edited for the webshop. First pieces already went out to our resellers.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> It's done, waiting for the pics to be edited for the webshop. First pieces already went out to our resellers.


So we're looking at possibly early next week then? Thanks!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 4


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> So we're looking at possibly early next week then? Thanks!
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 4


Open season!

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc780-gtx-classy-acetal-nickel.html


----------



## pilotter

Tiborrr which backplate can we use?


----------



## tiborrr12

Either EVGA (we haven't tested it but there's no reason why it shouldn't work) or EK-FC780 GTX Classy due on ~ Tuesday.


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Either EVGA (we haven't tested it but there's no reason why it shouldn't work) or EK-FC780 GTX Classy due on ~ Tuesday.


thanks will hold the order until the backplate is in the shop


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> thanks will hold the order until the backplate is in the shop


woohoo!

On a side note. Performance PCS hasn't received the blocks yet. I'm hoping next week!


----------



## Egami

It's all... tiny.


----------



## derickwm

It's actually quite a big block. The Classified is much much fatter than most GPUs...


----------



## Ragsters

What do you guys use to clean nickle plated blocks? Also is there a way to clean the acrylic on the blocks?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> What do you guys use to clean nickle plated blocks? Also is there a way to clean the acrylic on the blocks?


What I've used in the past is just distilled water, tooth brush and some elbow grease.


----------



## Big Elf

I also use a soft toothbrush and soap for cleaning acrylic. I've also used *VWP* (a mild powdered bleach) for removing dye stains and it somehow seems to brighten up the acrylic as well.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> What I've used in the past is just distilled water, tooth brush and some elbow grease.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I also use a soft toothbrush and soap for cleaning acrylic. I've also used *VWP* (a mild powdered bleach) for removing dye stains and it somehow seems to brighten up the acrylic as well.


Thanks guys! So if I remove the bolts to get to the block do I have to worry about the seal that the o-ring provides? Is there a way to clean the inside of the block without removing the acrylic? (distilled water/viniger in holes and shake?)


----------



## Big Elf

I don't know what effect the VMP would have on the o ring so wouldn't risk it. You can try shaking dry rice inside a res to clean it but I'm not sure it'd work effectively on a block. I wouldn't use vinegar anywhere near nickel plating.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I don't know what effect the VMP would have on the o ring so wouldn't risk it. You can try shaking dry rice inside a res to clean it but I'm not sure it'd work effectively on a block. I wouldn't use vinegar anywhere near nickel plating.


Okay no vinegar.


----------



## tiborrr12

Mild warm soapy water and cotton ear bud will do the trick every time.


----------



## derickwm

Usually we just use our tongues though.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's actually quite a big block. The Classified is much much fatter than most GPUs...


What I meant was that it was, well, a bit of a stumpy. You see, I was hoping the Classy block to be like the EK-FC770 GTX, stretching all the way down over the pcb rather than just covering the essentials. The reason is that pcb's generally really aren't that pretty, there as your blocks can be. And I really like the truly fully covering look of your earlier mentioned kind of limo stretched GTX 770 block.
That said, and remembering your post earlier in the watercooling thread, this is anything but me making demands of you guys. It's just a tiny person voicing their opinion of what they like about your current style of blocks and would like to see more of in the future








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Usually we just use our tongues though.


Now that is sig material right there!


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Usually we just use our tongues though.


----------



## Pheozero

The new CoolStream PE rads have 38 FPI which means that I need a high RPM fan right? What speed would you suggest? I'm looking at Noiseblocker fans for the most part.


----------



## pilotter

For the Asus M6Formula, a block will it be done, you said it's at the back burner at the moment. I am not very confinced with the RMaximus VI Formula Salt Spray Test by Asus for the Chrosschill.







Don't want to damage my EK blocks


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> The new CoolStream PE rads have 38 FPI which means that I need a high RPM fan right? What speed would you suggest? I'm looking at Noiseblocker fans for the most part.


It's 19FPI split fin design, which is not as restrictive as regular 38FPI design. Besides, the core isn't thick so pressure drop is modest.

High static pressure fan is recommended, I would go with Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-14 or AP-15.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> It's 19FPI split fin design, which is not as restrictive as regular 38FPI design. Besides, the core isn't thick so pressure drop is modest.
> 
> High static pressure fan is recommended, I would go with Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-14 or AP-15.


What diameter are the inner tubes? and what does parallel flow mean exactly? Is it U-flow or a front to back type like the BlackIce GTX


----------



## tiborrr12

The core as in the fin stacking, not the tube inner diameter. The inner diameter of the tube is similar to those of XT.

Yes, parallel design means U-shaped flow. Serial is like the condenser coil (like on air conditioning units).


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> The core as in the fin stacking, not the tube inner diameter. The inner diameter of the tube is similar to those of XT.
> 
> Yes, parallel design means U-shaped flow. Serial is like the condenser coil (like on air conditioning units).


Yeah, thanks I understood the fin density part I was just wondering about the hydraulic restriction. If the inner tubes are the same as the XT it should be fine. I just wanted to be sure it wasn't very slim like the Koolance and GT stealth rads because they kill flow with more than 2 rads.


----------



## PCSarge

will most likely be joining next week i have these on the way for my prodigy:

EK VGA Supremacy CSQ universal block x1

EK Special Dazmode Edition Supreme HF CPU Block x1

you can follow the project hoenir build log link in my sig i will be posting more once parts arrive.


----------



## szeged

Anyone know if the EK gtx titan SE waterblocks are compatible with the EVGA titan backplate?


----------



## Big Elf

The installation manuals show some differences. Warning, direct pdf download links

*EK*

*EVGA*


----------



## szeged

hmm, interesting, looks like it could work if done right, ill have to check and get a confirmation from EK and see if they have helped anyone else do it before. thanks


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Anyone know if the EK gtx titan SE waterblocks are compatible with the EVGA titan backplate?


Should fit as long as the holes are made for the M3 screws (meaning the holes are at least 3.2mm in diameter). If not, you will have to broaden the with a drill-bit.


----------



## tSgt

Quick question for you EK,

Assuming you're doing a "full cover" waterblock for the RIVBE, will it be possible to use 1/2" - 3/4" fittings on the chipset block ? or it will be like on the current RIVE chipset ?

I really want to use 19/13 tubing so :/


----------



## tiborrr12

Will do our best to support 13/19 (1/2" - 3/4") for sure.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Will do our best to support 13/19 (1/2" - 3/4") for sure.


Nice









And one more thing, will we be able to keep the IO Cover while using the blocks ?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Should fit as long as the holes are made for the M3 screws (meaning the holes are at least 3.2mm in diameter). If not, you will have to broaden the with a drill-bit.


Thanks for the answer







if they arent the right size i got everything to fix it up









one last question about the subject, should i screw in just the 4 screws around the core area, or try to screw in as many as i can? since the evga backplate has some holes missing from where the EK backplate has them.


----------



## tiborrr12

Indeed you should secure as many as you can.

Regarding RE4BE - we'll do our best.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Indeed you should secure as many as you can.
> 
> Regarding RE4BE - we'll do our best.


thanks again for helping me out







now to wait for the EK blocks to get here....waiting is the worst part. why did i choose ground shipping again?


----------



## Ragsters

EK_tiborrr,

Are these the same washers that come with the EK-Supremacy? I noticed the manual says 0.7mm thick and Frozen CPU says 0.8mm thick.


----------



## rickyman0319

I have Suprme HF waterblock for i7 4770k cpu. I am wondering what jet plate I shall use for it.

it is with x2 750 and UT60 (240mm). I only use for cpu loop.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have Suprme HF waterblock for i7 4770k cpu. I am wondering what jet plate I shall use for it.
> 
> it is with x2 750 and UT60 (240mm). I only use for cpu loop.


I think the last one that was released #6.thats what's in my hf.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Any ETA on the 290x blocks ?


----------



## tiborrr12

Got some today, first real quantity on Wednesday, full stock on Friday. We will show some pics tomorrow. The block features even more refined channels yet it is not sacrificing the flow rates.


----------



## szeged

Did you guys send out your mosfet blocks for the asus vi gene/hero to places such as frozencpu/performance-pcs yet?

also, make performance pcs restock their supremacy cpu blocks and titan SE backplates


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> What do you guys use to clean nickle plated blocks? Also is there a way to clean the acrylic on the blocks?


Pine-Sol 50/50 water for both this is all I have used for many years and it works like a charm (works on rads as well )

@ EK_tiborrr any chance for some naked 780 Classy block ?(inside picture or plexi variant ),I'm pretty sure you guys have nothing to hide


----------



## rickyman0319

I am wondering if I buy this: EK coolant, will it stain the wc parts or not? I am thinking to buy this:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/water-additives-coolants/ek-ekoolant-blood-red-premix-1000ml.html


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Pine-Sol 50/50 water for both this is all I have used for many years and it works like a charm (works on rads as well )
> 
> @ EK_tiborrr any chance for some naked 780 Classy block ?(inside picture or plexi variant ),I'm pretty sure you guys have nothing to hide


I'll try to snag a pic.

Regarding the staining. Red is the only dye that does stain surfaces a bit but this can be rinsed away. Usually the culprit for staining is the leached plasticizer or excess flux from radiator that has soaked up the coolant's dye. So if you use good tubing and rinsed radiator there should be no staining.


----------



## snef

I used this Ek Blood red Coolant from March until last week in my extreme red demon

with acrylic reservoir and tubing,
and some Primochill advanced LRT

non of my part or acrylic have any stain, just flush everything with water and like new, including all waterblock

the flex tubing is another thing, keep a little bit of red but its not plastizer


----------



## tiborrr12

@snef: Sure, every PVC tubing will usually absorb about 2% (volume of tubing material) of water due to PVC being porous so in that case about 2% of dyed water.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I'll try to snag a pic.
> 
> Regarding the staining. Red is the only dye that does stain surfaces a bit but this can be rinsed away. Usually the culprit for staining is the leached plasticizer or excess flux from radiator that has soaked up the coolant's dye. So if you use good tubing and rinsed radiator there should be no staining.


You have UV blue and UV Lime, does it stain also or not? I am trying to buy a color coolant that doesn't stain the system.

my system has Blood Red and clear tubing from Primochill advance LRT. does it works good on ur coolant?


----------



## tiborrr12

Green and blue are not as saturated as the red one, that's why people usually talk about staining (see above example).

Primochill LRT Advanced is a good tubing and should not leach plasticizer at all and is thus compatibile with any color of EKoolant.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Green and blue are not as saturated as the red one, that's why people usually talk about staining (see above example).
> 
> Primochill LRT Advanced is a good tubing and should not leach plasticizer at all and is thus compatibile with any color of EKoolant.


it doesnot stain the tubing but it stain wb and etc. is that correct?


----------



## snef

no

absolutely no stain on any of my waterblock


----------



## rickyman0319

I am wondering how do I replace the jet plate w/o unscrew the tubing on the wb?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> EK_tiborrr,
> 
> Are these the same washers that come with the EK-Supremacy? I noticed the manual says 0.7mm thick and Frozen CPU says 0.8mm thick.


Can you please halp me with this EK?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Pine-Sol 50/50 water for both this is all I have used for many years and it works like a charm (works on rads as well )
> 
> @ EK_tiborrr any chance for some naked 780 Classy block ?(inside picture or plexi variant ),I'm pretty sure you guys have nothing to hide


Sounds good. Thanks for the help!


----------



## pilotter

http://www.ekwb.com/news/405/19/New-water-block-for-EVGA-Classified-series-GeForce-GTX-780-released/

seriously, do we need to use the Palit backplate









nope corrected


----------



## tiborrr12

Sorry, that is a horrible typo!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can you please halp me with this EK?
> Sounds good. Thanks for the help!


Yes, same crap.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Sorry, that is a horrible typo!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, same crap.


Thanks!


----------



## Malik




----------



## tiborrr12

Malik! Killer photo. I need one in high-res, preferably with badge oriented the correct way. Please shoot me an email!


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Malik! Killer photo. I need one in high-res, preferably with badge oriented the correct way. Please shoot me an email!


I have moooore photos for You







This is only teaser


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*






Pardon me but whats that tubing and what are those compression fittings ? I must have those


----------



## Malik

EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 16/10mm and EK-CSQ Fitting 10/16mm G1/4 - Nickel


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Oh man thank you, this looks so sleak and clean I LOVE it!
GPU block is "EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Acetal" I assume ? I kind of didnt like the block at the website because of the in and out writings but i quess the fittings cover those, as it looks sick


----------



## TommyMoore

Dual loop 650d


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I just noticed this:
> 
> Anyone know anything about the fullcover? All I found was this: http://www.ekwb.com/news/364/19/


Any news?


----------



## derickwm

"Soon"


----------



## szeged

he just pulled the blizzard-activision response

god help us all.


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> he just pulled the blizzard-activision response
> 
> god help us all.


See you guys in 22 months!

Reference http://www.wowwiki.com/Soon


----------



## strong island 1

FC780-GTX-Classy_back_1200.jpg 323k .jpg file
I figured I should ask this here. In regards to the new classy block. finally got 2 ordered. really excited. This is a tiny picture but I was wondering does water actually flow directly over the vrm's or is the vrm section block not connected to the main block. I am probably saying it funny and I am not even sure if it matters but it kind of looks like the swiftech block where water doesn't directly flow over vrm's. Does anyone know? it's the main reason I sold my hc blocks for ek blocks. sorry couldn't upload as photo for some reason.


----------



## strong island 1

FC780-GTX-Classy_back_1200.jpg 323k .jpg file
I figured I should ask this here. In regards to the new classy block. finally got 2 ordered. really excited. This is a tiny picture but I was wondering does water actually flow directly over the vrm's or is the vrm section block not connected to the main block. I am probably saying it funny and I am not even sure if it matters but it kind of looks like the swiftech block where water doesn't directly flow over vrm's. Does anyone know? it's the main reason I sold my hc blocks for ek blocks. sorry couldn't upload as photo for some reason.


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> FC780-GTX-Classy_back_1200.jpg 323k .jpg file
> I figured I should ask this here. In regards to the new classy block. finally got 2 ordered. really excited. This is a tiny picture but I was wondering does water actually flow directly over the vrm's or is the vrm section block not connected to the main block. I am probably saying it funny and I am not even sure if it matters but it kind of looks like the swiftech block where water doesn't directly flow over vrm's. Does anyone know? it's the main reason I sold my hc blocks for ek blocks. sorry couldn't upload as photo for some reason.


Heres your answer
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Ya'all seen this right? EK-FC780 GTX Classy and EK-FB GA G1.Sniper 5.
> 
> Regarding FC780 GTX Classy: Before anyone asks why the VDD (memory) VRM isn't actively cooled - it's not necassery. Under 2 hours Furmark full-load it barely reaches 65°C and these have a threshold at 120°C. We calculated the estimated TDP before finalizing the design and talked with EVGA R&D about this and they said it's perfectly fine as well. The longer block would just skyrocket the costs.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> Heres your answer


i believe he was talking about the core VRM, which is actively watercooled, there are two channels going to and from the vrm area.

the memory vrm isnt covered at all, which is why its not surprising it isnt actively cooled


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Ya'all seen this right? EK-FC780 GTX Classy and EK-FB GA G1.Sniper 5.
> 
> Regarding FC780 GTX Classy: Before anyone asks why the VDD (memory) VRM isn't actively cooled - it's not necassery. Under 2 hours Furmark full-load it barely reaches 65°C and these have a threshold at 120°C. We calculated the estimated TDP before finalizing the design and talked with EVGA R&D about this and they said it's perfectly fine as well. The longer block would just skyrocket the costs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just curious but if the card was fitted in smaller case with limited airflow would the max temps of 65ºC still hold true or were those reached with active airflow over the card.


----------



## tiborrr12

65°C was without any airflow over the card, in a smaller case the airflow would even further decrease the temperatures.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> "Soon"


Would be really nice if you guys made a block especially for the Z87I-Pro Motherboard as well. Going to be using it in a fully EK'd build some time in the future.


----------



## pilotter

tiborrr, please update the possibillty to buy the 780 classy plus backplate together on the ekwb site. Right now I can only order the waterblock


----------



## tiborrr12

We will have FC780 GTX Classy Backplates available on Friday and webshop up by tomorrow.


----------



## coolhandluke41

^^ what's the time-frame for US market on this blocks ...any chance for the picture I asked ?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> ^^ what's the time-frame for US market on this blocks ...any chance for the picture I asked ?


+1

I'm not paying 50USD for shipping...that's for sure.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> ^^ what's the time-frame for US market on this blocks ...any chance for the picture I asked ?
> 
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> I'm not paying 50USD for shipping...that's for sure.
Click to expand...

Is there a review of this block anywhere ?,picture of the open manifold ? ...marketing is one thing but we want hard fact before blowing few hundreds on this odd-looking blocks guys ..come on ..

P.S. I still have the "nickel plated" 580 block from EK...you want to see it Tiborrrrrr ?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> ^^ what's the time-frame for US market on this blocks ...any chance for the picture I asked ?


I think PPC and Frozen have already ordered them so should be a matter of days.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> ^^ what's the time-frame for US market on this blocks ...any chance for the picture I asked ?
> 
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> I'm not paying 50USD for shipping...that's for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is there a review of this block anywhere ?,picture of the open manifold ? ...marketing is one thing but we want hard fact before blowing few hundreds on this odd-looking blocks guys ..come on ..
> 
> P.S. I still have the "nickel plated" 580 block from EK...you want to see it Tiborrrrrr ?
Click to expand...

Nobody has reviewed it as of yet. The closest thing is to check out Stren's Titan block roundup to checkout our block vs Swiftech's.
http://www.xtremerigs.net/reviews/water-cooling/nvidia-titan-water-block-roundup-coming-soon/


----------



## coolhandluke41

Thanks derickwm for trying to be helpful







,it looks like there were few blocks available @ frozen
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21600/ex-blc-1556/EK_EVGA_780_Classified_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_Acetal_EK-FC780_GTX_Classy_-_AcetalNickel.html?tl=g57c613s1928

EDIT ;as for the picture ..it will probably looks something similar to this

ASUS GeForce 780 GTX DCII


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Thanks derickwm for trying to be helpful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,it looks like there were few blocks available @ frozen
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21600/ex-blc-1556/EK_EVGA_780_Classified_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_Acetal_EK-FC780_GTX_Classy_-_AcetalNickel.html?tl=g57c613s1928
> 
> EDIT ;as for the picture ..it will probably looks something similar to this
> 
> ASUS GeForce 780 GTX DCII


Nice find!
I spoke with Performance PCS this morning and they said EK will be shipping a batch to them this Friday.


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> We will have FC780 GTX Classy Backplates available on Friday and webshop up by tomorrow.


thanks Tiborrrr


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> "Soon"


I hate you.

My Impact comming soon, and I want to go water, but I dont want to buy a temporary block







Just give me something, weeks, months, YEARS?!


----------



## derickwm

More than a week, less than a year


----------



## coolhandluke41

@BGKris ..I will probably wait for plexi variant (doubt they will have it )


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> @BGKris ..I will probably wait for plexi variant (doubt they will have it )


That would be nice, but I think EK mentioned that they will not be producing a plexi variant. EK, please correct me if I'm wrong.

I can't wait anymore. I need to get my rig under water so I can start overclocking. Running on stock HSF sucks! lol


----------



## derickwm

Nickel acetal is the only variation of the 780 classy block we're doing due to how much plexi raw material height can vary (since the card/block is so tall).


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> @BGKris ..I will probably wait for plexi variant (doubt they will have it )
> 
> 
> 
> That would be nice, but I think EK mentioned that they will not be producing a plexi variant. EK, please correct me if I'm wrong.
> 
> I can't wait anymore. I need to get my rig under water so I can start overclocking. Running on stock HSF sucks! lol
Click to expand...

why no plexi ? ,..don't tell me "because of the cost" crap ...this cards (fastest 780 out there and the Lightning will have plexi ? ) deserve Titan type of block ..I can't believe this

EDIT ;Derick beat me to it ..*increase the price* ,come with limited ver.-short run ,how much plexi rised since say 2 years ago ? ..lol ,what a joke


----------



## derickwm

See my post above...


----------



## coolhandluke41

see my EDIT above


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> see my EDIT above


see my edited post 16 pages ago....


----------



## derickwm

Luke,

I apologize for not having plexi. We love the plexi blocks, and I as an enthusiast was bummed when I found out. Due to the size of the PCB it just isn't feasible.

We're working everyday to try and appeal to everyone but as wc'ing is all about aesthetics to some, it isn't easy. We offer more variations of block than anyone else and try our best to continue to do so.

Perhaps in the future the "880" classified will be smaller and plexi will be a possibility.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> see my EDIT above
> 
> 
> 
> see my edited post 16 pages ago....
Click to expand...

see the one I haven't edited yet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Luke,
> 
> I apologize for not having plexi. We love the plexi blocks, and I as an enthusiast was bummed when I found out. Due to the size of the PCB it just isn't feasible.
> 
> We're working everyday to try and appeal to everyone but as wc'ing is all about aesthetics to some, it isn't easy. We offer more variations of block than anyone else and try our best to continue to do so.
> 
> Perhaps in the future the "880" classified will be smaller and plexi will be a possibility.


Good luck ,Thanks for you help


----------



## tiborrr12

I have three plexi tops for Classy. It's possible but expensive due to a lot of wasted parts. We'll see how the sales go and then act accordingly. It's hard for us as well as for our resellers to stock so many different SKUs.

Also, Lightning is going to be Acetal+Nickel only.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I have three plexi tops for Classy. It's possible but expensive due to a lot of wasted parts. We'll see how the sales go and then act accordingly. It's hard for us as well as for our resellers to stock so many different SKUs.
> 
> Also, Lightning is going to be Acetal+Nickel only.


Could you send one my way?


----------



## tiborrr12

Well what do I get in return?









P.S.: Here are the internals of the EK-FC780 GTX Classy block.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Well what do I get in return?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S.: Here are the internals of the EK-FC780 GTX Classy block.


A customer for life









Thank you for sharing!


----------



## Killa Cam

what are your plans for the amd 290x? its kinda irritating that most aibs from amd will be selling their own custom pcb cards rather than the reference design. but since u guys did do asus direct cu/matrix and msi lightnings for the 7970, will you guys continue to make blocks for those cards? will you guys be expanding to other signature cards from other aibs such as sapphire? please make some blocks for sapphire


----------



## tiborrr12

Make no mistake there will be plenty of reference R9 290X boards available. It's a brand new design, 512-bit memory bus, not every design team can manage such circuit board design. Just think - how many different GTX 280 design were out there? GTX 275/285 sure, but GTX 280?

But yes, we'll do our usual thing with the R9 290X non-reference design, do not worry.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Well what do I get in return?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S.: Here are the internals of the EK-FC780 GTX Classy block.


you will get THANK YOU and new/returned costumer buddy








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I have three plexi tops for Classy. It's possible but expensive due to a lot of wasted parts. We'll see how the sales go and then act accordingly. It's hard for us as well as for our resellers to stock so many different SKUs.
> 
> Also, Lightning is going to be Acetal+Nickel only.


thank you for this as well


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Well what do I get in return?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S.: Here are the internals of the EK-FC780 GTX Classy block.


thanks a lot for that. My blocks should be here in a couple days.

So water doesn't actually flow over to that little channel on the right side of your pic? Isn't that the core vrm's? I am probably confused but I am just wondering if it's the same as the swiftech block.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> thanks a lot for that. My blocks should be here in a couple days.
> 
> So water doesn't actually flow over to that little channel on the right side of your pic? Isn't that the core vrm's? I am probably confused but I am just wondering if it's the same as the swiftech block.


Yes the smaller section on the right is water cooled. That is why it has an O-ring.
Any EK block with a stainless section on the front features a separate section like this for VRM cooling. It means there is a section of raised caps on the board that the water has to sort of jump over.
Its hard to explain but the water moves from the copper layer, into the acrylic layer (hence the need for the steel cover), back down to the copper layer for the VRM section and runs up it to the top and out again through the acrylic layer. Its like two little bridges, one in, one out for the water to jump over the caps and back.

Just like the 7070 block


This doesn't make it real easy to see how it works but I don't have better pics from the last time I opened the block.

Edit:


Swiftech blocks are basic in comparison.

Picture of Swiftech Titan by Stren


----------



## strong island 1

I appreciate it because I really am confused. I am not criticizing at all. I saw the o-ring but just couldn't imagine how the water gets over there. I think the swiftech blocks really were passively cooled and I was really excited to get these to see if the vrm's are a little more stable under the extreme voltage I put thru my card. I am happy to know that I am wrong.


----------



## tiborrr12

The main VRM is actively cooled. The water goes through the plastic top to the VRM section and then returns to the common outlet. Jakusonfire did a great explanation.

Well, maybe I'll give you two plexi tops I have


----------



## pilotter

Tiborrr, give it to him









just on the hump to travel from Holland to Egypt for 4 weeks







, will you manage to put the backplate today on the webshop? would be perfect, I can order and when I come back finish the build


----------



## tiborrr12

@pilotter: It's online: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc780-gtx-classy-backplate-black.html


----------



## pilotter

ordered I was first !







Underway to the camels


----------



## snef

any update or pics about 780 HOF block?


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> The main VRM is actively cooled. The water goes through the plastic top to the VRM section and then returns to the common outlet. Jakusonfire did a great explanation.
> 
> Well, maybe I'll give you two plexi tops I have


Thanks I feel better now. Please let us buy those 2.


----------



## rickyman0319

where can I buy red/ uv red cover for ek supreme hf cpu waterblock?

or

where can I buy clear cover for ek supreme hf cpu waterblock?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> where can I buy red/ uv red cover for ek supreme hf cpu waterblock?
> 
> or
> 
> where can I buy clear cover for ek supreme hf cpu waterblock?


AFAIK you can't buy them anywhere anymore.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

One drop of PT Nuke in a loop of 2x 360mm UT60s, 250ml res, 2x Titan EK blocks, and EK cpu block isn't to much right???


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> AFAIK you can't buy them anywhere anymore.


can I buy this Copper Top - Supreme (High Performance Replacement Tops) ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_410_1032&products_id=25895) and put it on my EK Supreme HF waterblock ( nickel Acetal)? or not?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> can I buy this Copper Top - Supreme (High Performance Replacement Tops) ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_410_1032&products_id=25895) and put it on my EK Supreme HF waterblock ( nickel Acetal)? or not?


From the product description.
Quote:


> TOP Full copper is a replacement top for your EK-Supreme HF Full copper waterblock.
> 
> This top is being revised. The only difference is that inlet/outlet holes are now 26,5mm apart, thus allowing bigger fittings to be installed on block.


So it should fit.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> One drop of PT Nuke in a loop of 2x 360mm UT60s, 250ml res, 2x Titan EK blocks, and EK cpu block isn't to much right???


afaik shouldve used 2


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> afaik shouldve used 2


Yeah it's 1 drop per liter and 1/2 a gallon is just under 2 liters... Looks like a have more investigating to do


----------



## strong island 1

i can't believe how fast these came from slovenia to new york. ordering and delivery only took 2 days all together. that's pretty amazing. i only had a second to take some horrible photos. My camera is dying and I need a new one. everytime I go to buy one I spend the money on my computer instead. These blocks are huge in person. the photos don't do them justice.


----------



## hyooga

I am still waiting on mine









Ordered it on Monday as soon as it became available.


----------



## strong island 1

I'm testing my classy block now. it felt so much better installing this block compared to the swiftech block. The fit and finish is so much better on these blocks and they don't warp my card at all. Can't wait for the backplates.


----------



## tiborrr12

Excellent, I'm glad you find them user-friendly!


----------



## szeged

ordered some EK titan blocks from frozencpu, accidentally ordered one too many, called them up to get them to take one off, they already shipped it though. Worked out though cuz i found another titan for sale for $700







no blocks wasted.


----------



## derickwm

^paying back the US debt to China one block at a time


----------



## szeged

Idk what im gonna do with this extra card lol, the only rig i could replace a gpu in atm doesnt have a loop in it, just a h100i and stock air on the two 7950s in it.

may be time to upgrade it and finally have all my rigs go under water lol.


----------



## derickwm

I think we all want to see pics of all your rigs


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> "Soon"












ill post pics when the blocks arrive and get installed


----------



## derickwm

Well played


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ordered some EK titan blocks from frozencpu, accidentally ordered one too many, called them up to get them to take one off, they already shipped it though. Worked out though cuz i found another titan for sale for $700
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no blocks wasted.


Where do you find all of these GTX Titans for so cheap? Lol.


----------



## szeged

this latest one was from over on evga lol


----------



## ozzy1925

i would like to ask whats the difference between this :
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-gtx-6x0-series/ek-fc680-gtx-nickel-plus.html
and this:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc680-gtx-acetal-plus.html

other than look?The nickel plated one performs better?


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i would like to ask whats the difference between this :
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-gtx-6x0-series/ek-fc680-gtx-nickel-plus.html
> and this:
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc680-gtx-acetal-plus.html
> 
> other than look?The nickel plated one performs better?


Ones acetal over copper and the other is acrylic over nickel plated copper. Some will argue the nickel plated versions perform better but the difference is marginal at best for the lifetime and use of your loop and the decision should be more about looks and uniformity of the materials inside your loop than anything else. Get which ever matches the other 'metals' in your loop.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Ones acetal over copper and the other is acrylic over nickel plated copper. Some will argue the nickel plated versions perform better but the difference is marginal at best for the lifetime and use of your loop and the decision should be more about looks and uniformity of the materials inside your loop than anything else. Get which ever matches the other 'metals' in your loop.


the problem is :I already bought the copper one but the clear nickel one looks much better and cant decide should i buy the plexi one or stay with this


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

So nickle blocks will get a little discolored right... I panicked and took both apart cause I thought I saw copper showing








New to all this WC so I tend to panic and think I've broken everything...


----------



## tiborrr12

Panic is never good









Also, EK-FC 780 GTX Classy will be available in Plexi version as well due to high demand. Well, crap, more work for me


----------



## seross69

Will there be a M/B Block for the RIVE BE edition????


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Panic is never good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, EK-FC 780 GTX Classy will be available in Plexi version as well due to high demand. Well, crap, more work for me


Paying extra for plexi - gold version


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Panic is never good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, EK-FC 780 GTX Classy will be available in Plexi version as well due to high demand. Well, crap, more work for me


How soon will the Plexi be available? I thought since the card is too big, Plexi wouldn't work?


----------



## DuraN1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Panic is never good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, EK-FC 780 GTX Classy will be available in Plexi version as well due to high demand. Well, crap, more work for me


You should just make an XL version that covers the memory VRM while you're at it. Saw a picture of the Lightning block, thats the kind of block i'd want for my Classified cards.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DuraN1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Panic is never good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, EK-FC 780 GTX Classy will be available in Plexi version as well due to high demand. Well, crap, more work for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should just make an XL version that covers the memory VRM while you're at it. Saw a picture of the Lightning block, thats the kind of block i'd want for my Classified cards.
Click to expand...

^^^ so much of this +1 ,make a true full cover that covers all the VRAM +nickel /plexi top and I will order 3x $150 each in a heartbeat


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> ^^^ so much of this +1 ,make a true full cover that covers all the VRAM +nickel /plexi top and I will order 3x $150 each in a heartbeat


That's stretching it a bit too far, bros


----------



## coolhandluke41

to be honest I'm just happy you guys decide it on Plexi top
Thanks


----------



## VSG

Anything you can reveal about the blocks for the R9-290X? Full size, plexi etc?


----------



## Maako

any news about Gigabyte G1 Sniper 5 fullcover mobo block? still waiting it to be released so i can finally start building my computer


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DuraN1*
> 
> You should just make an XL version that covers the memory VRM while you're at it. Saw a picture of the Lightning block, thats the kind of block i'd want for my Classified cards.


The card sags enough as is. I can't imagine how much more it would be w/ a full length block.


----------



## DuraN1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> That's stretching it a bit too far, bros


Awww







Waiting for a shipment of 20 of the Classy block, will probably get here on monday


----------



## DuraN1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The card sags enough as is. I can't imagine how much more it would be w/ a full length block.


The MSI Lightning PCB is equally big and it gets a fullcover, so I don't know about that... But I don't really care, getting rid of these air coolers ASAP


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Anything you can reveal about the blocks for the R9-290X? Full size, plexi etc?


I have all the pics done, not sure if I should share them yet, but here's the deal:

Short top:
EK-FC R9-290X
EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel

XXL:
EK-FC R9-290X - Acetal
EK-FC R9-290X - Acetal+Nickel
EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel (Original CSQ)

We are tinkering with the possibilities of a full metal version (similiar to our EK-FCW9000) and a limited gold-plated version.

EK-FB GA G1.Sniper 5 water blocks are done since yesterday but still in parts. They need to be assembled and shipped out.


----------



## szeged

you guys should make a limited edition platinum and diamond encrusted block for the titan

im sure it would be cheap to make


----------



## ozzy1925

Will there be a waterblock for the msi z87 motherboards?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I have all the pics done, not sure if I should share them yet, but here's the deal:
> 
> Short top:
> EK-FC R9-290X
> EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel
> 
> XXL:
> EK-FC R9-290X - Acetal
> EK-FC R9-290X - Acetal+Nickel
> EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel (Original CSQ)
> 
> We are tinkering with the possibilities of a full metal version (similiar to our EK-FCW9000) and a limited gold-plated version.
> 
> EK-FB GA G1.Sniper 5 water blocks are done since yesterday but still in parts. They need to be assembled and shipped out.


Awesome stuff! I hope you guys can have enough of these in hands of retailers everywhere- not just for shipping cost, but more so that I can have a block available when I get the 290X.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Will there be a waterblock for the msi z87 motherboards?


xspc has your mobo block


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> xspc has your mobo block


some of us prefer that sweet sweet nickle plexi over blue LEDS in everything


----------



## Ragsters

Going to post this on our market place this week but I thought I would post here first. I have a brand new copper plexi supremacy CPU block that I want to sell just so I can turn around and buy the nickel plated version to match the rest of my blocks. PM me if you're interested.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DuraN1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The card sags enough as is. I can't imagine how much more it would be w/ a full length block.
> 
> 
> 
> The MSI Lightning PCB is equally big and it gets a fullcover, so I don't know about that... But I don't really care, getting rid of these air coolers ASAP
Click to expand...

The lightning is not as tall as the classy afaik. The classy is pretty damn fat and spread out across a large PCB.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Will there be a waterblock for the msi z87 motherboards?


Possibly the higher end ones but not for a while.


----------



## DuraN1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The lightning is not as tall as the classy afaik. The classy is pretty damn fat and spread out across a large PCB.
> Possibly the higher end ones but not for a while.


But now I'll have to glue some heatsinks onto the mem VRM


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The lightning is not as tall as the classy afaik. The classy is pretty damn fat and spread out across a large PCB.
> Possibly the higher end ones but not for a while.


that includes m power max?


----------



## khemist

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/607/jl2t.jpg/

Changing back to all EK now.


----------



## tiborrr12

Lovely. Make sure to show final result!


----------



## khemist

Will do, having a bit of a problem getting two screws in the backplate at the minute though, the two screws next to the pcie connection.

Have to get back to it after work tomorrow.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Silicon grease is what you guys use to get the seal back in the blocks right?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Silicon grease is what you guys use to get the seal back in the blocks right?


Ive used vasaline in the past, just make sure to use very little or it will get into your tubing.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## Big Elf

Most people don't need silicon grease to get the o ring in place but find warm water helps. Unfortunately I'm not one of them and always use tiny dabs of silicon grease to hold the o ring in position. I've avoided using vaseline as it's a petroleum jelly and I'm not sure whether the hydrocarbons would affect the integrity of the o ring.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Ive used vasaline in the past, just make sure to use very little or it will get into your tubing.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


Sparingly, got it!


----------



## wot

In for z87 mpower max waterblock







EK_tiborrr? derick?


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I have all the pics done, not sure if I should share them yet, but here's the deal:
> 
> Short top:
> EK-FC R9-290X
> EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel
> 
> XXL:
> EK-FC R9-290X - Acetal
> EK-FC R9-290X - Acetal+Nickel
> EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel (Original CSQ)
> 
> We are tinkering with the possibilities of a full metal version (similiar to our EK-FCW9000) and a limited gold-plated version.
> 
> EK-FB GA G1.Sniper 5 water blocks are done since yesterday but still in parts. They need to be assembled and shipped out.


Full metal would be nice.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

My build has lots of EK stuff in it so I'd like to join the club!









CSQ CPU + FC670 Block + backplate
D5 plexi pump top
X3 250mm res
x2 XT240mm rads


----------



## Ragsters

Are the single link adapters included in the csq 7970 GPU blocks?


----------



## snef

hope you will really do a white gtx780 HOF block,
just ordered 2


----------



## VSG

So, dear EK reps, any thoughts on the GTX 780Ti and if your blocks for the reference Titan/780 will fit?


----------



## derickwm

No idea at this time, maybe tiborrr knows more than I do though. We'll try to keep you updated asap.


----------



## PCSarge

derrick bores me so heres some not so pretty pictures of my rig:











cause being fancy isn't my thing

poshted from my surface. haters gonna hate.


----------



## tiborrr12

@PCSarge: Nice, compact and powerful!









P.S.: I heard you guys like them acrylicz:



Shipping Oct 28th. Pre-order should be up in about an hour or two when I mow the lawn, hopefuly for the last time this year.


----------



## VSG

Tiborr, same question as earlier- anything EK for the upcoming 780Ti?


----------



## tiborrr12

780GTX Ti is not a new card, it's just a new GPU specification. Ti's will most likely be re-packed on the same circuit boards as 780 GTX. So, 780 GTX DCII blocks will fit 780 GTX Ti DCII etc.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> 780GTX Ti is not a new card, it's just a new GPU specification. Ti's will most likely be re-packed on the same circuit boards as 780 GTX. So, 780 GTX DCII blocks will fit 780 GTX Ti DCII etc.


so titan blocks would fit the reference 780ti youre thinking?


----------



## tiborrr12

Correct.


----------



## szeged

thanks, if that 780ti truly has 2880 cores ill defeinitely be recycling some titan blocks lol


----------



## VSG

That's pretty awesome news.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> thanks, if that 780ti truly has 2880 cores ill defeinitely be recycling some titan blocks lol


It's a 780 GTX with one more cluster. It's not 2880 unit monster like the GPU used on Tesla K20X. It's slower than Titan.

GTX Titan > GTX 780 Ti > GTX 780 > GTX 770


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> It's a 780 GTX with one more cluster. It's not 2880 unit monster like the GPU used on Tesla K20X. It's slower than Titan.
> 
> GTX Titan > GTX 780 Ti > GTX 780 > GTX 770


ah, i was just going by the videocardz post that went up, im just being wishful


----------



## szeged

k so i got the EK cpu block on and my best OCing titan in a rig, got it all ready to head off vs the 290x and possibly 780ti depending on how it turns out, ill be grabbing a 780ti also









Sorry pics are all taken on a phone camera which is cracked down the middle and 9/10th of the lights in my house are burned out so lighting is bad, who wants to fix my actual camera for me?










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


















gonna maybe throw another titan into this rig if the 290x keeps taking forever to release.


----------



## tiborrr12

Beautiful rig, take the rig outside and make some nice photos during daylight.

Also, here's the link to Classy in Nickel Plexi: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc780-gtx-classy-nickel.html


----------



## szeged

Ill try to borrow a friends actual camera so the pics arent super blurry also, thanks for the compliment


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Beautiful rig, take the rig outside and make some nice photos during daylight.
> 
> Also, here's the link to Classy in Nickel Plexi: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc780-gtx-classy-nickel.html


Thanks Tiborr. Can I also ask what is the current status for your waterblock for the asus maximus vi formula?


----------



## szeged

oh also, do you know when performance-pcs/frozencpu might get some asus vi hero mosfet blocks in? i want to put that and the ram into the loop aswell, but waiting to buy them at the same time, and probably switch to acrylic in the process.


----------



## tiborrr12

@geggeg: Formula sample was tested last week, retail should be in about 10-14 days.

@szeged: Don't know, I think they did an order last week so most likely by mid next week. This is more a question for PPCs or Frozen.


----------



## szeged

thanks, ill try to call em up soon.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I'll join as well

2x EK Supremacy and EK 360XT (not in use since it has a leak)














































If I ever watercool a GPU in the future I'll be going EK again


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> @geggeg: Formula sample was tested last week, retail should be in about 10-14 days.


will be in acetal nickel? And if possible post a shot please


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Got some today, first real quantity on Wednesday, full stock on Friday. We will show some pics tomorrow. The block features even more refined channels yet it is not sacrificing the flow rates.


Just a question, when is EK going to publish the photo's for the R9 290X waterblocks?
I'm excited!


----------



## derickwm

We're waiting for AMD to release the cards/lift NDA.


----------



## thestache

What's the metal top of this block made from and how would I best paint it? Mixing it with all my copper blocks wouldn't look too good.


----------



## derickwm

Stainless steel.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Stainless steel.


Thanks Derick.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Just a question, when is EK going to publish the photo's for the R9 290X waterblocks?
> I'm excited!


Waiting for reply from AMD whether we can post photos or not prior to NDA. They don't know either, their legal team is on it now


----------



## PCSarge

i have something shiny for derick and tibor to look at while we wait, i cleaned my cables up earlier and took pics.


----------



## Malik




----------



## coolhandluke41

since there is few out there with the new 780 Calssy blocks can some of you post results please (1.3~1.35v)

P.S.
@ Malik nicely done homeboy


----------



## Ragsters

Has anyone seen a Bits Power reservoir on top of a EK DDC X-Top using a male to male fitting? Can it be done?
I want to buy this and put the res on top.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Why wouldnt it? I've done that with swiftech ddc top I don't see why the EK would be any different, it's just G1/4.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Has anyone seen a Bits Power reservoir on top of a EK DDC X-Top using a male to male fitting? Can it be done?
> I want to buy this and put the res on top.


Exactly what i have in my wife's build


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Has anyone seen a Bits Power reservoir on top of a EK DDC X-Top using a male to male fitting? Can it be done?
> I want to buy this and put the res on top.


You'll be fine with doing that.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Why wouldnt it? I've done that with swiftech ddc top I don't see why the EK would be any different, it's just G1/4.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Exactly what i have in my wife's build
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0019_zps219571cf.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You'll be fine with doing that.


Thanks for the help guys! I guess that I knew that technically it would work I was just afraid of the possibility of it snapping or something. My idea is to use some sort of stand under the pump. I really don't want to attach the pump/res to the case.


----------



## Drifbau5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Whats the tubing used here? I would like some matte black tubing myself. It looks sweet!


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> Whats the tubing used here? I would like some matte black tubing myself. It looks sweet!


EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 16/10mm


----------



## X-oiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 16/10mm


Would you recommend it to others?


----------



## CasP3r

Hi,

I'd have a little question for you EK-specialists. Is it possible to use this backplate on the back of MSI R9 280X with the stock air cooler?

Thanks.


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> Would you recommend it to others?


Yes, this tubes are awesome


----------



## OrcishMonkey

Will new 290x blocks match current cpu blocks or be a new design? would be cool to not have to buy another block so that everything matches =(


----------



## VSG

Different blocks, the reps mentioned it a couple pages back.


----------



## tiborrr12

Blocks are out: http://www.ekwb.com/news/407/19/EK-FC-R9-290X-for-AMD-Radeon-R9-290X-makes-it-s-debut/


----------



## szeged

very nice, ill probably end up with that nickle plexi one when i grab a 290x to compare to titans lol


----------



## Pheozero

Firstly, I'll take two.

Secondly:
Quote:


> Products are readily available for pre-order through EK Webshop and Partner Reseller Network. Due to embargo on the aforementioned graphics card the shipping will commence on October 25th 2013.


Does this mean NDA is lifted on the 25th?


----------



## tiborrr12

Secondly: Once could assume so


----------



## X-oiL

Wow the second block looks amazing, I take two!


----------



## thestache

Very nice.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Blocks are out: http://www.ekwb.com/news/407/19/EK-FC-R9-290X-for-AMD-Radeon-R9-290X-makes-it-s-debut/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Its good to see new hydro restriction data available for these in the store. Data for other new blocks would be appreciated too I'm sure.


----------



## tiborrr12

@Jakusonfire: I'll do them when I'll find some time.


----------



## skruffs01

Blocks look great


----------



## Ragsters

Wait...Can I use these new blocks on my 7970?


----------



## unequalteck

got my EK supremacy nickel last few days from EKWB


----------



## VSG

Man, shipping is almost 2/3rds the cost of the 290X block. Any discount code for OCN guys?


----------



## snef

any plan to release a white acetal top for supremacy?

will use white top on ram block and white block for GTX 780 HOF

thanks


----------



## OrcishMonkey

welp just picked up 2 of the csq 290x blocks, any chance i can get a picture of what i bought? lol im sure its rediculously awesome anyways, hence why you already have my money haha


----------



## Ryanboost

Looking to purchase the EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal but noticed a clean version is available with the pump.

The EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal version states an increased hydraulic performance by up to 20% above factory top but the EK-D5 Vario X-TOP - Acetal (incl. pump) version states only up to 15%.

Is this a typo or does the CSQ version really give up to 5% more?

Will the X-TOP be available in a clean version without the pump?

Hoping to clear this up to know whether or not I should wait on a clean version of the X-TOP.

Thanks for your time.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrcishMonkey*
> 
> Will new 290x blocks match current cpu blocks or be a new design? would be cool to not have to buy another block so that everything matches =(


As shown, yes they will match current Supremacy blocks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Wait...Can I use these new blocks on my 7970?


No, 290X isn't the same as 7970. The "reference 280X" PCB is a 7970.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Man, shipping is almost 2/3rds the cost of the 290X block. Any discount code for OCN guys?


Not as of right now. These will be available to order from PPCs at some point in the near future as well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> any plan to release a white acetal top for supremacy?
> 
> will use white top on ram block and white block for GTX 780 HOF
> 
> thanks


Not as of right now but we'll take it into consideration.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrcishMonkey*
> 
> welp just picked up 2 of the csq 290x blocks, any chance i can get a picture of what i bought? lol im sure its rediculously awesome anyways, hence why you already have my money haha


Be similar to these (I believe, I haven't seen them)










http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc780-gtx-dcii-nickel-original-csq.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanboost*
> 
> Looking to purchase the EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal but noticed a clean version is available with the pump.
> 
> The EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal version states an increased hydraulic performance by up to 20% above factory top but the EK-D5 Vario X-TOP - Acetal (incl. pump) version states only up to 15%.
> 
> Is this a typo or does the CSQ version really give up to 5% more?
> 
> Will the X-TOP be available in a clean version without the pump?
> 
> Hoping to clear this up to know whether or not I should wait on a clean version of the X-TOP.
> 
> Thanks for your time.


I'll check into the performance numbers. D5 Clean top should be available to order separately in the near future.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Wait...Can I use these new blocks on my 7970?


No, of course not.

Edit; Ninja'd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanboost*
> 
> Looking to purchase the EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal but noticed a clean version is available with the pump.
> 
> The EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal version states an increased hydraulic performance by up to 20% above factory top but the EK-D5 Vario X-TOP - Acetal (incl. pump) version states only up to 15%.
> 
> Is this a typo or does the CSQ version really give up to 5% more?
> 
> Will the X-TOP be available in a clean version without the pump?
> 
> Hoping to clear this up to know whether or not I should wait on a clean version of the X-TOP.
> 
> Thanks for your time.


The D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal states 20% above factory top, the D5 Vario X-TOP - Acetal (incl. pump) states 20% above Laing D5 Vario.

The First is the max figures for all versions of the D5 pump including the D5 strong ... the second is just the Vario.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanboost*
> 
> Looking to purchase the EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal but noticed a clean version is available with the pump.
> 
> The EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal version states an increased hydraulic performance by up to 20% above factory top but the EK-D5 Vario X-TOP - Acetal (incl. pump) version states only up to 15%.
> 
> Is this a typo or does the CSQ version really give up to 5% more?
> 
> Will the X-TOP be available in a clean version without the pump?
> 
> Hoping to clear this up to know whether or not I should wait on a clean version of the X-TOP.
> 
> Thanks for your time.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'll check into the performance numbers. D5 Clean top should be available to order separately in the near future.


Isn't this is right here?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=38774

Edit: Just noticed you wanted it without the pump.


----------



## Xinoxide

EK Coolstream XTX 360
EK Supremacy fullcopper


----------



## Tillmander

Well i just bought this https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dual-radiator-laing-d5-complete-watercooling-flex-kit/
nickel upgrade on cpu block and tank res also white tubes and black fittings. This will be my first time water cooling so lets hope this goes well. Also this is my 100th post!!!!! party


----------



## p33k

When you order directly from ek what is typical processing time? Ordered a couple of backplates with 3 day shipping. Was hoping to have them soon but it's been almost 3 days of processing the order hehe. Cheers!


----------



## tiborrr12

@Xionxide: A monster rig indeed. Would be cleaner with some EK universal VGA blocks though


----------



## Egami

Looks like the cooling configurator has gone down? It gives the following error when you go to the start site

Error: array_slice() [function.array-slice]: The first argument should be an array

home.php [line 34](E_WARNING)

Backtrace:

error_handler

home.php[line 34]array_slice

index.php[line 53]require


----------



## Pheozero

290X blocks will fit on the 290, right?


----------



## bond32

Any EK rep want to chime in on when the 780 lightning block will be available? Thanks


----------



## lilchronic

for my 780


----------



## DevilGear44

Clear EK blocks FTW.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> Clear EK blocks FTW.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes! Let the mustard flow through you!









Love me some yellow.







Such an underused color for builds. It's always black/white, red/black, or blue.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> Yes! Let the mustard flow through you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love me some yellow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Such an underused color for builds. It's always black/white, red/black, or blue.


Yup







I ended up w/ pastel for something different and I love it


----------



## DevilGear44

Dat color scheme! Reminds me of DFI boards back in the day.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Any EK rep want to chime in on when the 780 lightning block will be available? Thanks


They're machined but still in pieces, only couple dozen assembled so far. Will most likely go on sale on Friday or Monday. We're fully booked with R9 290X and some OEM orders.

And yes, EK-FC R9-290X will fit AMD Radeon R9 290 non-X version as well.

P.S.: Cool rigs, keep 'em coming guys!


----------



## DampMonkey

Just ordered the 290X full waterblock from frozencpu


----------



## tiborrr12




----------



## Kokin

Is there any US site/store that sells the Plexi Top for 7950s? Would it be possible to get any retailer like FrozenCPU to order one for me?

The shipping from the ekwb site is almost double the cost of the top.











My 7950 block needs some color!


----------



## szeged

any chance we will see "xxl" versions of the nickle/plexi 290x block hitting markets?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Is there any US site/store that sells the Plexi Top for 7950s? Would it be possible to get any retailer like FrozenCPU to order one for me?
> 
> The shipping from the ekwb site is almost double the cost of the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 7950 block needs some color!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Call them. The guys at the FrozenCPU are super easy to work with. They deal with people doing custom crazy intricate builds all the time, and will generally go above and beyond to help you get what you need. If you ask nice and maybe are willing to wait, you could get it put on their next inbound freight. Its worth a shot...that is allot of money for not much more than a postcard sized box.

Good luck


----------



## tiborrr12

Something new for you:


----------



## VSG

Beautiful


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Something new for you:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference...

The attention to detail over un-named competitors...



This gets my gears going on the x-mas build for my 10 year old.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

can someone measure the width of a full cover GPU block, from the bit which sticks out for the fittings back to the motherboard, not sure whether a FC block will fit in Sour Apple unfortunately due to the hinged door and power supply clearance. Also if someone has a 770/780/titan block could you measure how far it is from the end of the sticky out bit for fittings to the end of the GPU (Rear of the case end)

Thank you!!


----------



## lowfat

Editied and cropied one of my favourite pics a bit differently. Makes me realize how much I like this block. I think a polished CSQ GTX 780 SE block is probably my favourite ever







.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4227-1-2.jpg.html


----------



## Kokin

^Amazing photo. I'm always a big fan of your builds.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Something new for you:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


O M F G, its beautiful :>
Is it a extended Supremacy, or is the "CPU" part of it something entirely new? Got any price on that? or even better, the block filled with your Bloody red? :>
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK Water Blocks @ Facebook*
> EK-FB ASUS M6I - all in one motherboard water block for ASUS REPUBLIC OF GAMERS Maximus VI Impact motherboard featuring world renown EK-Supremacy CPU core. Direct water cooling of CPU, power regulation (MOSFETs) and Intel Z87 Express PCH! Coming soon!


Link


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Something new for you:


when will this block be available in US (I'm in the process of building a rig with M6 Impact )








Thanks

P.S. will there be a nickel ver. ?


----------



## tiborrr12

@lowfat: Beautiful as usual. TBH, this is Eddy's block, rest of the 770/780 blocks are designed by me. Eddy always picks out the most easy ones (no metal plate







).

Regarding the M6I block. I will most likely confirm the sample on Monday (tomorrow I'm a slacking bastard), we should have them manufactured and ready for shipping in about 2 weeks, give or take one week (R9 madness).


----------



## coolhandluke41

the M6I block is probably the slickest designs I have seen in a long time ,well gone whoever came out with it









(nickel +1 LED =







)


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> the M6I block is probably the slickest designs I have seen in a long time ,well gone whoever came out with it




P.S.: Block has two slots for LED diodes


----------



## coolhandluke41

are you a part owner Tiborr ? if not you should be


----------



## tiborrr12

Not a part owner but thanks for advice (and compliments)









I have some long-term projects with EK but after that we will see where the future will lead me. This is quite an ungrateful industry, everybody can say crap about you over the forums and there's nothing you can do about it. Some people think that knowing how to use a power drill, a jigsaw or how to bend a piece of copper pipe makes them industry pros, knowing everything about metallurgy, fluid dynamics as well as industrial design. It gets personal over time.

In couple of years I will probably be doing something completely different.


----------



## ozzy1925

Whats the reason for ek to make blocks for every single asus product?Are they business partners or is it because there are many asus buyers?


----------



## SeeThruHead

Do you think that block might be compatible with the z87i-Pro? Or if not will you be making one for it?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Do you think that block might be compatible with the z87i-Pro? Or if not will you be making one for it?


1) No
2) Don't know at the moment but most likely no. This is uncharted territories, let's see how the EK-FB ASUS M6I will sell.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Not a part owner but thanks for advice (and compliments)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have some long-term projects with EK but after that we will see where the future will lead me. This is quite an ungrateful industry, everybody can say crap about you over the forums and there's nothing you can do about it. Some people think that knowing how to use a power drill, a jigsaw or how to bend a piece of copper pipe makes them industry pros, knowing everything about metallurgy, fluid dynamics as well as industrial design. It gets personal over time.
> 
> In couple of years I will probably be doing something completely different.


You do a great job here and it's very much unappreciated. I actually feel bad for many of the hardware reps in forums since they get a lot of crap thrown at them from unsatisfied or uneducated(no research done) customers.


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> You do a great job here and it's very much unappreciated. I actually feel bad for many of the hardware reps in forums since they get a lot of crap thrown at them from unsatisfied or uneducated(no research done) customers.


Unsatisfactory experiences tend to spread quicker than satisfactory experiences. Just the way the world works









Personally, I'll be an EK buyer for life. Every product I've purchased from them so far has been engineered with a quality that I've never seen in any other PC hardware component. The first time i held my nickel supremacy elite block in my hand, i was breathless









This personal forum where reps come and talk with use one on one is just icing on the cake. Thanks EK! your the best!


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> Unsatisfactory experiences tend to spread quicker than satisfactory experiences. Just the way the world works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally, I'll be an EK buyer for life. Every product I've purchased from them so far has been engineered with a quality that I've never seen in any other PC hardware component. The first time i held my nickel supremacy elite block in my hand, i was breathless
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This personal forum where reps come and talk with use one on one is just icing on the cake. Thanks EK! your the best!


I have to say its the same experince for me here as well. I'll be EK loyal buyer for sure







They have shown product's quality that has been engineered with excellent results.


----------



## Kokin

I can't say the same since I've only been using XSPC stuff, but this was my first EK product and has been problem free for the year I've been using it.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> You do a great job here and it's very much unappreciated. I actually feel bad for many of the hardware reps in forums since they get a lot of crap thrown at them from unsatisfied or uneducated(no research done) customers.
> 
> 
> 
> Unsatisfactory experiences tend to spread quicker than satisfactory experiences. Just the way the world works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally, I'll be an EK buyer for life. Every product I've purchased from them so far has been engineered with a quality that I've never seen in any other PC hardware component. The first time i held my nickel supremacy elite block in my hand, i was breathless
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This personal forum where reps come and talk with use one on one is just icing on the cake. Thanks EK! your the best!
Click to expand...

I concur! When everybody around here was trying to ziptie and ducktape a solution for direct die on IvyBridge...All the other manufactures were like "I am not going to touch that with a 10' pole!" Then EK came back with "We got something for that, and its only gonna cost ya 5 bucks." Obviously someone there has the balls to tackle engineering tasks that the rest of the industry is afraid of.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Is the 7990 SE nickel block permanently out of stock or will there be more available in the future?


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Not a part owner but thanks for advice (and compliments)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have some long-term projects with EK but after that we will see where the future will lead me. This is quite an ungrateful industry, everybody can say crap about you over the forums and there's nothing you can do about it.Some people think that knowing how to use a power drill, a jigsaw or how to bend a piece of copper pipe makes them industry pros, knowing everything about metallurgy, fluid dynamics as well as industrial design. It gets personal over time.
> 
> In couple of years I will probably be doing something completely different.


You're doing a great work, I don't know if you're the only one behind the new waterblock design, but honestly, the actual design is sooo much better than the previous one. EK is changing their style and it's really nice. Imho actual blocks look way more professional than the older one (no offence to whoever designed them)

Just keep doing your amazing work (you and EK) because it's awesome. I'll stay loyal to EK, always bought their products and I'm always happy with them, and god knows how many thousands I've spent


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Not a part owner but thanks for advice (and compliments)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have some long-term projects with EK but after that we will see where the future will lead me. This is quite an ungrateful industry, everybody can say crap about you over the forums and there's nothing you can do about it. Some people think that knowing how to use a power drill, a jigsaw or how to bend a piece of copper pipe makes them industry pros, knowing everything about metallurgy, fluid dynamics as well as industrial design. It gets personal over time.
> 
> In couple of years I will probably be doing something completely different.


Tiborr, you guys are making EKWB!







You are repleying almost to all questions and suggestions, and also EKWB customer support is great. Even with nagging customers like me







.

Maybe I can ask here as well. Does anyone with a EKWB Ram waterblock and EK ram Modules succesfully installed TridentX G.skill memory. I am almost ready to pull the trigger to buy, because the Corsair Vengeance pro is out of stock for weeks already









and please post a pic of the asus MF6 waterblock when possible.


----------



## szeged

EK deserves every compliment they get, it is saddening to see some people spew crap about such wonderful people and products just because they had one bad experience and didnt let the service team help them out, just decided to accept defeat and call names on forums.

everyone that works at EK deserves a pat on the back from every watercooling enthusiast in the world. Top notch products, top notch people, top notch service









now that ive buttered you up, send more 290x blocks to the USA


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Something new for you:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This just sealed the deal on my next build. Couldn't decide between a caselabs S3 vs. S5 build ----> S3 it is. This block is amazing, Nice work


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I concur! When everybody around here was trying to ziptie and ducktape a solution for direct die on IvyBridge...All the other manufactures were like "I am not going to touch that with a 10' pole!" Then EK came back with "We got something for that, and its only gonna cost ya 5 bucks." Obviously someone there has the balls to tackle engineering tasks that the rest of the industry is afraid of.


I needed something for my de-lidded Ivy so I said why not offer this to the masses. That was my project as well, luckily there wasn't anyone there to argue with me









Thank you again for your kind words, now I want to see more of your systems.

P.S.: R9 blocks should arrive in the States early next week if they're not there yet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Is the 7990 SE nickel block permanently out of stock or will there be more available in the future?


Believe it or not, they're being assembled on daily basis. If it's OOS just place an order and they will assemble one in a day or so (all materials are on stock).


----------



## King4x4

How about xt rads 480... been out of stock for a long time.


----------



## tiborrr12

The radiators are en-route and are on ship at the moment. Sadly, these are the only things that we manufacture outside of Slovenia and there's only so little one can do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> Maybe I can ask here as well. Does anyone with a EKWB Ram waterblock and EK ram Modules succesfully installed TridentX G.skill memory. I am almost ready to pull the trigger to buy, because the Corsair Vengeance pro is out of stock for weeks already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and please post a pic of the asus MF6 waterblock when possible.


Sorry, we have no plans for Trident X. These mems use a weird railing so it's not possible to mill out a simple adapter solution. We would have to make a casting tool to cast such aluminum 'adapters'. This kind of tool easily costs 15-20k EUR. All we can do is to recommend removing IHS if it's possible and installing EK-RAM Monarch Module + EK-RAM Dominator.

We will show M6F next week!


----------



## King4x4

Thanks tiborrr!

Poke barbara for me


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Sorry, we have no plans for Trident X. These mems use a weird railing so it's not possible to mill out a simple adapter solution. We would have to make a casting tool to cast such aluminum 'adapters'. This kind of tool easily costs 15-20k EUR. All we can do is to recommend removing IHS if it's possible and installing EK-RAM Monarch Module + EK-RAM Dominator.
> 
> We will show M6F next week!


I have the monarch module in house







, however wanted to go with vengance pro memory, but is out of stock already for weeks. Now I have a offer for 16 GB g.skill, but I have seen nobody take the heatspreader of







, and put the monarch module.


----------



## doctakedooty

Hey guys got a question got ek supremecy nicle plexi cpu block ek rampage iv extreme nickle plexi block and 2 ek nickle plexi ram blocks for loop one I have 2 ek 480 xt radiators 1 ek 240 xt and 1 alpahacool 240. I will be running dual loops doing primochill acrylic tubing my question is my ram motherboard and cpu will be on its own loop with the alphacool 240 and 480 ek xt both the 480s are in push pull config. My pump is a swiftech mcp35x with the ek acrylic top. Is having that first loop set up like that going to be optimal cooling or should I change something around my 3 gpus will be on there own loop with a 480ek xt and the 240 ek xt please let me know what you guys think.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> I have the monarch module in house
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , however wanted to go with vengance pro memory, but is out of stock already for weeks. Now I have a offer for 16 GB g.skill, but I have seen nobody take the heatspreader of
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , and put the monarch module.


I did it here:


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> I have the monarch module in house
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , however wanted to go with vengance pro memory, but is out of stock already for weeks. Now I have a offer for 16 GB g.skill, but I have seen nobody take the heatspreader of
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , and put the monarch module.


Taking off the G.Skill heatspreaders is not difficult.
Just take your time - heat gun and gently pry off.

 

I had mounting modules from previous build so used them with EK's blocks.


----------



## Akula

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/266/po0e.jpg/

Polished Supremacy CSQ Waterblock

Buildlog can be found on LTT Forum - I have a smaller log within this forum but less detailed.

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/56428-project-mercury-caselabs-s3-watercooled-gtx-titan/


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> I did it here:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Taking off the G.Skill heatspreaders is not difficult.
> Just take your time - heat gun and gently pry off.
> 
> 
> 
> I had mounting modules from previous build so used them with EK's blocks.


thanks, but at the moment at sea......can't see the pics







I want to use tridentX, can't find anybody who took those spreaders off


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Taking off the G.Skill heatspreaders is not difficult.
> Just take your time - heat gun and gently pry off.
> 
> 
> 
> I had mounting modules from previous build so used them with EK's blocks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> I did it here:


sorry I am at sea with sloppy internet, can't see the pics. Is that with TridentX , I have not yet seen anyone take those spreaders of.....


----------



## Jflisk

EK_tiborrr

You guys ever consider making a Full cover block for the Asus Sabertooth 990fx. I know a few people that might be interested in them. Thanks


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> Is that with TridentX , I have not yet seen anyone take those spreaders of.....


No (ripjawz) - but just took the top fin off one of my Trident X's to have a look.
Appears to be same principal - just different "hinge" method. well no hinge actually.
You would need to remove the side that hooks over top over the other one first.
Can't see any problem taking them off - you should be good to go


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/266/po0e.jpg/
> 
> Polished Supremacy CSQ Waterblock
> 
> Buildlog can be found on LTT Forum - I have a smaller log within this forum but less detailed.
> 
> http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/56428-project-mercury-caselabs-s3-watercooled-gtx-titan/


Looks like you did a good job on it too. Consider polishing the jet plate and the rest of the nickle now.


----------



## tiborrr12

@Akula: Beautiful photograph (and polishing skills!) Post some final build pics as well!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> EK_tiborrr
> 
> You guys ever consider making a Full cover block for the Asus Sabertooth 990fx. I know a few people that might be interested in them. Thanks


Mobo blocks are the most ungrateful things. You spent more time designing it yet hardly anyone buys them. Apart from some ASUS models everything else is waste of time and we just do them to satisfy the customers, leaving profit aside.

Just an example - we sold more Titan blocks in a week than we sold a FB block (let's leave it unnamed) in a year. And we sell more Titan blocks than Supremacies if that help you any bit


----------



## nyk20z3

Still waiting on the release of the 780 Lighting Block!

I heard there where issues so they where pulled for corrections so that's good to hear regardless.


----------



## khemist

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/13/9oc9.jpg/



Changing tubing to EK matte Black when i get it.

Bit of a colour mix up just now as i wasn't planning on getting a Green mobo!.


----------



## nyk20z3

Beautiful Block!


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> No (ripjawz) - but just took the top fin off one of my Trident X's to have a look.
> Appears to be same principal - just different "hinge" method. well no hinge actually.
> You would need to remove the side that hooks over top over the other one first.
> Can't see any problem taking them off - you should be good to go


thanks, if the vengeance is still out of stock this week, then I will go for the Tridents. Seems that the vengeance pro heatspreader is going of very easy .


----------



## Pheozero

The EK ZMT tubing only comes in 3/8 x 5/8? I only have 7/16 x 5/8


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> any chance we will see "xxl" versions of the nickle/plexi 290x block hitting markets?


Not likely.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Whats the reason for ek to make blocks for every single asus product?Are they business partners or is it because there are many asus buyers?


Simple, they have a history of selling the best.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Still waiting on the release of the 780 Lighting Block!
> 
> I heard there where issues so they where pulled for corrections so that's good to hear regardless.


Should be soon.


----------



## Tillmander

Hey guys i just bought my first custom w/c parts and received them today. I have an ek-supreme lxt and other things non ek. but I was wondering as to how I should go about flushing my radiator? any help would be great thanks. http://www.overclock.net/t/1435996/first-time-water-cooling That's my thread pertaining to this.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tillmander*
> 
> Hey guys i just bought my first custom w/c parts and received them today. I have an ek-supreme lxt and other things non ek. but I was wondering as to how I should go about flushing my radiator? any help would be great thanks. http://www.overclock.net/t/1435996/first-time-water-cooling That's my thread pertaining to this.


Personally, I use the heavily diluted vinegar and water combo then flush with distilled water method. Works perfectly fine for me.


----------



## Tillmander

Ok thanks but one question, how much vinegar should i use? Also check out the thread I put up in my previous post seeing as i'm the only one who posts in it.(i swear everything i post in dies lol)


----------



## Pheozero

I used around a 10:1 mixture of warm/hot water to vinegar. Mix and shake vigorously, and then drain and reflush with distilled into a bowl until you don't see any residue coming out anymore. There are tons of methods out there, but this one works best for me.


----------



## Tillmander

ok thanks. I went to my laundry to flush it out in the sink and i found some already diluted vinegar for cleaning carpets and other stuff so i put that in and then some warm water and shook it hard like 5 times. I never saw one speck of anything just clear water. I think I'm going to try and hook everything up outside and just run it into a bowl just to be safe.


----------



## Tillmander

I have a really old computer in my room and i was wondering if i could use its power supply to test my loop outside of my case before i put it in. it has molex connectors but no 24 pin or anything like that. its from a compaq evo if that helps.


----------



## Tillmander

Anyone?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tillmander*
> 
> Anyone?


Should be okay as long as you can find the psu_on and a ground wire and jump the psu on









Do someone know wich spacing is needed for two single ek fcbridge singles and crystal sli links on a sabertooth z77? And a little advice on how i should use/mod my blocks, i got two gtx680 full cover blocks with an ek supremacy cpu block, and right now im thinking of having both my gpus and a cpu in a serial loop (gpuin,gpuin,cpuin, cpuout, gpuout and gpuout) cause that will leave any visual tubing to absolute minimal in the enthoo primo, gonna couple it with two d5 pumps and two 480s and maybe a thin 360 if space allows it..

Would pressure be high enough?

Sould i leave it stock or sand my blocks clear or clear blocks with coloured accents? Everything visual is acrylic







was thinking of lighting my blocks up too but it seems like only my cpu got led sockets


----------



## Yakikuze

Here are my new wc components. Only the VGA WB is EK,
u guys can check my Build log
(BuildLog) MagnusOpus2.0


----------



## Tillmander

My new cpu block. First time water cooling.


----------



## Kokin

Hey guys, so I contacted FrozenCPU and they are taking orders for anyone interested in the Plexi Top for 7950 blocks. Not sure how long this will be up for, but feel free to contact them for any requests that aren't on the site.









http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21676/cus-010/TOP_Plexi_-_FC7950.html


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Just make sure you go green wire to black wire. That will "jump start" the PSU and allow you to use the molex plugs to run your pump.


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> No (ripjawz) - but just took the top fin off one of my Trident X's to have a look.
> Appears to be same principal - just different "hinge" method. well no hinge actually.
> You would need to remove the side that hooks over top over the other one first.
> Can't see any problem taking them off - you should be good to go


ordered the tridentX, will arrive next week hopefully. hope to be back myself in 3 weeks and building will continue.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tillmander*
> 
> My new cpu block. First time water cooling.


Pretty block


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Some of my EK blocks in place, Supreme CPU block for my 4770k, pump top for DDC pump, EK Monarch adapter kit and RAM block


----------



## MIGhunter

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-h3o-360-hfx.html

I've not water cooled before but I've been contemplating it. Now that I'm getting my R9 290X GPU, I'm really thinking about it. Is this a good starter kit? Is that a pump/resevoir in 1 combo? I hear those are better, that true? I'd be looking at putting it in my HAF 932 on an i5 3570 with the 290x GPU block. Also, I hear it's better to use colored tubing than clear with coloring, is that true?


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Some of my EK blocks in place, Supreme CPU block for my 4770k, pump top for DDC pump, EK Monarch adapter kit and RAM block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!


Damn those Monarchs look nice. I wonder... does anyone know if they can be used without the top water cooling unit or would that amount to frying the ram?


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Damn those Monarchs look nice. I wonder... does anyone know if they can be used without the top water cooling unit or would that amount to frying the ram?


they work just fine without the block, been running them for the past 3 weeks with no block and have had no problems so far


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Damn those Monarchs look nice. I wonder... does anyone know if they can be used without the top water cooling unit or would that amount to frying the ram?


DDR3 RAM runs pretty cool. I don't even have any heatsinks on mine and they don't get hot enough to burn my fingers (35~40C most likely). Heatsinks are mostly for aesthetic value and I do agree that those Monarchs look pretty nice.


----------



## Egami

Nice one. Thanks guys!

Now just need to find some ram with black pcb.


----------



## bond32

Still no 780 lightning block









I know you guys are busy, thanks for the response earlier.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Nice one. Thanks guys!
> 
> Now just need to find some ram with black pcb.


That's what paint is for!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-h3o-360-hfx.html
> 
> I've not water cooled before but I've been contemplating it. Now that I'm getting my R9 290X GPU, I'm really thinking about it. Is this a good starter kit? Is that a pump/resevoir in 1 combo? I hear those are better, that true? I'd be looking at putting it in my HAF 932 on an i5 3570 with the 290x GPU block. Also, I hear it's better to use colored tubing than clear with coloring, is that true?


That kit will keep your i5 290X at good temps. Yes that is a pump/res combo. As far as tubing & dye is concerned, it's really up to you. Just be sure to get tubing that is known to be plasticizer free. The EK-ZMT tubing included is plasticizer free. People are still paranoid that dye can clog loops but personally I haven't seen any clogged loops [from dye] in quite a few years.


----------



## Kokin

The Primochill Advanced LRT (avoid Pro LRT at all costs!) has had really good reception in the Mayhem's dye thread. People who have been using it for 6months~10months haven't seen any plasticizer/clouding issues.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> The Primochill Advanced LRT (avoid Pro LRT at all costs!) has had really good reception in the Mayhem's dye thread. People who have been using it for 6months~10months haven't seen any plasticizer/clouding issues.


Yup. Just broke down my loop to switch some stuff up and the tubing is still clear. Only thing I don't like about it is, sometimes it is really hard to get compressions on and they start biting into the tubing.


----------



## VSG

When installing an EK block, is applying TIM encouraged on anything you put a thermal pad on (Ram etc)?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Yup. Just broke down my loop to switch some stuff up and the tubing is still clear. Only thing I don't like about it is, sometimes it is really hard to get compressions on and they start biting into the tubing.


Yep the problem with tubing without plasticizer is that it is a lot more rigid and harder to work with in general (both in bending and for compressions). Although I would gladly take all those negatives if it meant no clouding.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Yep the problem with tubing without plasticizer is that it is a lot more rigid and harder to work with in general (both in bending and for compressions). Although I would gladly take all those negatives if it meant no clouding.


Guess that means time to go acrylic


----------



## Ragsters

I've been looking into it a lot lately and now I would love to be able to buy a DDC pump top clean acrylic seperately. Is that something that should be happening soon? I know someone recently mentioned it but now I need it.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That kit will keep your i5 290X at good temps. Yes that is a pump/res combo. As far as tubing & dye is concerned, it's really up to you. Just be sure to get tubing that is known to be plasticizer free. The EK-ZMT tubing included is plasticizer free. People are still paranoid that dye can clog loops but personally I haven't seen any clogged loops [from dye] in quite a few years.


What is an i5 290X???


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> What is an i5 290X???


i5 CPU and 290x GPU


----------



## MIGhunter

This is what I am working with, replacing the old GPU with a 290x either Monday or Tuesday depending on UPS. I have the room to WC, just gotta decide what to go with.


----------



## Yakikuze

Hi all, u guys can check out my worklog.

I use EK VGA SUPREMACY UNIVERSAL WB on my GTX 760
MagnusOpus2.0 [FT03mini] sff+mod+wc+rigid tube


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yakikuze*
> 
> Hi all, u guys can check out my worklog.
> 
> I use EK VGA SUPREMACY UNIVERSAL WB on my GTX 760
> MagnusOpus2.0 [FT03mini] sff+mod+wc+rigid tube


I would recommend some other passive heatsinks on your memory. The one that you're trying to use for vrm's doesn't look too effective either.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yakikuze*
> 
> Hi all, u guys can check out my worklog.
> 
> I use EK VGA SUPREMACY UNIVERSAL WB on my GTX 760
> MagnusOpus2.0 [FT03mini] sff+mod+wc+rigid tube
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow acrylic tubing + no angled fittings in such a small space! That takes some real planning and patience.


----------



## szeged

one of my EK fc titan blocks has a crack in it, right around one of the screw holes near the inlet and outlet ports, on the plexi. Also has a tiny crack near a screwhole outside of the rubber o ring, think it would be safe to try to fill it with an epoxy? dont have anything to pressure test it atm, would only be still water i could test with till i got to work.


----------



## tiborrr12

I'd rather see you send it back for replacement.


----------



## bond32

Still no sign of the Lightning 780 block







Was hoping to have it ordered by now...


----------



## tiborrr12

Will be online tomorrow.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I'd rather see you send it back for replacement.


i would but it came with one of the titans i bought and the warranty stick was ripped off









also any word on if you guys have received a 780ti? or will it be the same pcb layout as the titan/780 reference? a few places have reported it has a different power delivery section. Would like to have blocks for it day one


----------



## Michalius

I didn't know there was a club!

Recent build:









Last Build:


----------



## Destrto

Hey Ek guys! Question about this new EK-DDC 3.2 X-RES. Does it come with plugs or fill port blanks?


----------



## VSG

That page mentions it comes with 2 plugs.


----------



## Destrto

I just received an email from PPCS, that was updated as of about an hour ago. Haha.

It did not say that this morning.


----------



## Ragsters

Looking for a ddc top res extension in acrylic. Was that ever made?


----------



## MrT0ad

Hi beautiful people









Is funny how the internet sometimes mimics thought process. I was going to elaborate on the previous statement but I generally tend to cut a short story long. Cutting a short story long is usually best if you want to lose the attention of any potential audience.

So, blah blah blah tl;dr oh! there is an EK Club. Excellent.

First, awesome ASUS Maximus VI Impact block. That settled what was going to be my next build's MB.

Second, for the EK Club, my HTPC/Gaming hybrid, just finished yesterday. For anyone concerned about my welfare, no, I did not leave my daytime job to become a photographer.

Third, yeah, my sleeving sucks. A lot. To prevent further ignominy I will not disclose how long it took me. Silver linings: the rig is safely tucked away in the AV stand. The sleeving is out of sight. No wildlife was hurt in the process of sleeving these wires.

EDIT: Niko, I still have The One And Only Ever Made R3BE full cover acrylic water block mwahahhahahah!!!! In a 100 years time is going to make a killing in auction. We don't know if that auction will take place on Earth or in one of the planets colonised by the aliens that will come to excavate the ruins of our civilisation. But it will still make a killing!


----------



## DampMonkey

Had some awesome engineering waiting on my doorstep this afternoon







Mounted pics soon


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrT0ad*
> 
> EDIT: Niko, I still have The One And Only Ever Made R3BE full cover acrylic water block mwahahhahahah!!!! In a 100 years time is going to make a killing in auction. We don't know if that auction will take place on Earth or in one of the planets colonised by the aliens that will come to excavate the ruins of our civilisation. But it will still make a killing!


Pics! I wasn't made aware of the existence of such a block :wth:


----------



## MrT0ad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Pics! I wasn't made aware of the existence of such a block


That is because it does not exist... what you are about to see is nothing but a figment of your imagination.

I have just posted the picture of a box, your mind will do the rest.


----------



## doctakedooty

Thought I would post a pic of my loop its only half done got to wait till thanksgiving to order 2 more gtx 780 classifieds and put my second loop together glfor my gpus


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> Had some awesome engineering waiting on my doorstep this afternoon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted pics soon
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is really an impressive looking block.


----------



## DampMonkey

Got here up and runnin'


----------



## Ovrclck

Nevermind, read the manual hah.


----------



## 7ha7a5ian

Few goodies for a project I'm working on. .


----------



## Drifbau5

Okay guys so I'm going to get an EK block for my 770 and add it to my loop in the build in my sig. What do you think? Should I get the plexi one to match with my cpu block? Or should I get the black one and get a black top for my Supremacy? I can't decide.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> Okay guys so I'm going to get an EK block for my 770 and add it to my loop in the build in my sig. What do you think? Should I get the plexi one to match with my cpu block? Or should I get the black one and get a black top for my Supremacy? I can't decide.


I glanced over your build really quick to see your theme and black would go great.


----------



## tSgt

I have a question for you Tibor or Derick, whoever can answer









Planning to update my build with a new theme, and I would like to know if it's possible to order a block *top* that isn't produced ? kind off custom, because I would love to get 2 Acetal clean CSQ tops for my 690s.


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> We will show M6F next week!


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> I have a question for you Tibor or Derick, whoever can answer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Planning to update my build with a new theme, and I would like to know if it's possible to order a block *top* that isn't produced ? kind off custom, because I would love to get 2 Acetal clean CSQ tops for my 690s.


Hello,

sorry, no custom designs at the moment. We just have no time left to spend on such projects.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> sorry, no custom designs at the moment. We just have no time left to spend on such projects.


Ok no problem








Maybe we will have such options in a future ? new tops would be really nice *-*


----------



## tiborrr12

Don't know at the moment, tSgt, maybe.

The EK-FC780 GTX Lightning is finally being launched: http://www.ekwb.com/news/408/19/EK-releases-MSI-N780-Lightning-Full-Cover-water-block/


----------



## Akula

Just a quick update on my tubing progression









http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/56428-project-mercury-caselabs-s3-watercooled-gtx-titan/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/197/jmf4.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/89/zqur.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/197/eoj0.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/593/4106.jpg/


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Just a quick update on my tubing progression
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/56428-project-mercury-caselabs-s3-watercooled-gtx-titan/


Wow


----------



## WiSK

EK RES-X3 110 fits nicely in the top compartment of FT03-mini


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> EK RES-X3 110 fits nicely in the top compartment of FT03-mini


I like that! That is pretty slick


----------



## tiborrr12

Excellent fitting indeed. Please share more pics!


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/593/4106.jpg/


Might just be the photo but it looks like you have a kink forming on that bend. It will get worse when the heat softens the tubing.

Looks great otherwise.


----------



## Akula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Might just be the photo but it looks like you have a kink forming on that bend. It will get worse when the heat softens the tubing.
> 
> Looks great otherwise.


It's the photo angle








there is no kink


----------



## tiborrr12

Have you OCNers seen this one yet?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Have you OCNers seen this one yet?[URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1725131/width/500/height/1000%5B/IMG]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1725131/width/500/height/1000[/IMG[/URL]][/QUOTE]
> That is one sweet rig!
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## lowfat

What kind of fans/fan covers are those?


----------



## Kenerd

Hey guys I'm currently crossfiring a 7970/7950. I purchased two Ek csu nickel full cover blocks and the tri slot csq bridge. However my 7950 does not use the7970 reference design. So I exchanged 1 for the ek fc7950 nickel block but it's not csq. So is there any way I can use an adapter to make the bridge work or should I just use fittings and tubing

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17486/ex-blc-1352/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Parallel_3-Slot_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Acrylic_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Parallel_3-Slot_CSQ_Plexi.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21668/ex-blc-1570/EK_Radeon_HD_7950_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Electroless_Nickel_Plated_EK-FC7950_-_EN_Nickel.html?tl=g57c599s1919html?tl=g57c645s2062?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17069/ex-blc-1226/EK_Radeon_HD_7970_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_CSQ_EK-FC7970_-_Nickel_CSQ.html?tl=g57c599s1921

that's what i have so far any input would be great


----------



## tiborrr12

Dear Kenard,

sorry bro but there is no easy fix for your situation. You may want to look into this topic: http://www.overclock.net/t/1388877/mix-csq-fc7970-with-non-csq-fc7970


----------



## p0Pe

Thought I would share my build here. Custom tops for the EK ram blocks that connects them to everything else on the motherboard. Also, custom reservoirs and a bunch of other stuff:
































Build log here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1408451/project-n-v/0_20


----------



## ozzy1925

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p0Pe*
> 
> Thought I would share my build here. Custom tops for the EK ram blocks that connects them to everything else on the motherboard. Also, custom reservoirs and a bunch of other stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build log here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1408451/project-n-v/0_20





W T F looks like a spacecraft


----------



## tiborrr12

This is probably one of the most details build I have come across lately.


----------



## Big Elf

That's exceptionally good, those custom tops are fantastic.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

When can we expect the 780Ti blocks and the 780Ti classified block ?







if such thing will ever happen


----------



## Maako

Is there any news or release date for gigabyte sniper 5 mb block? Its allready 1 month late? I know this starts to be annoying that i ask it every 2 weeks but i really want to finish my build and get the water flowing







thank you for understanding


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> When can we expect the 780Ti blocks and the 780Ti classified block ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if such thing will ever happen


Waiting to see if that'll even be necessary. 780 reference blocks could fit 780Ti's, same with the classified.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Waiting to see if that'll even be necessary. 780 reference blocks could fit 780Ti's, same with the classified.


if they do fit, ill have a lot of titans for sale without the blocks with them this time


----------



## derickwm




----------



## Malik

Classic by EKWB


----------



## OrcishMonkey

These fc 290x blocks are sick ty ek


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrcishMonkey*
> 
> 
> These fc 290x blocks are sick ty ek


i went with the Black Acetal. They do look very nice.


----------



## esberelias

EK-HD Tubbing and fitting with EK Supremacy Polished, EK-CoolStream RAD XT240 & 2x EKWB EK-FC7950 Full Cover Block


----------



## kpoeticg

Very clean and stealth-looking. Great work


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Hello Peeps, here are my EK Components:

Supremacy Elite for intel LGA2011
FC Titan SE x2
FC TItan SE Laser Engraved Backplate x2
16mm HD fittings x2
4 Slot 16mm SLI acrylic tube.


----------



## LiL_JaSoN

i have 2 ek res and both leak.

ek has sent me a replacement seal a while back and i recently reinstalled the res and it still leaks

whenever i turn the comp on i get mini air bubbles and coolant coming out the side of the on the of the res through the thread where the lid screws onto

i dont believe its a seal issue but to go with the lids maybe ? i brought a new tube and used the existing lids and still leaks..


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL_JaSoN*
> 
> i have 2 ek res and both leak.
> 
> ek has sent me a replacement seal a while back and i recently reinstalled the res and it still leaks
> 
> whenever i turn the comp on i get mini air bubbles and coolant coming out the side of the on the of the res through the thread where the lid screws onto
> 
> i dont believe its a seal issue but to go with the lids maybe ? i brought a new tube and used the existing lids and still leaks..


A seal should def, fix this problem. The thread doesn't seal anything unless you use that white sealing tape for pipes. either , the seal is not positioned right or the seal itself is defective.


----------



## LiL_JaSoN

might just buy a different res.

i'v had too many problems with this res. have replaced pretty much everything on it and cant seem to find the problem.

im pretty sure ek sent me a new seal (or top) a while back and it kept leaking so i through it back into the cupboard and put another one on.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL_JaSoN*
> 
> might just buy a different res.
> 
> i'v had too many problems with this res. have replaced pretty much everything on it and cant seem to find the problem.
> 
> im pretty sure ek sent me a new seal (or top) a while back and it kept leaking so i through it back into the cupboard and put another one on.


Sucks man. I ended up going with a bitspower 250 tank, was almost half as the EK version. I ended up needing a 90degree fitting which bumped the total cost, but still ended up less expensive. It's been great so far.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Very clean and stealth-looking. Great work


^this. very clean indeed. great work!


----------



## LiL_JaSoN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Sucks man. I ended up going with a bitspower 250 tank, was almost half as the EK version. I ended up needing a 90degree fitting which bumped the total cost, but still ended up less expensive. It's been great so far.


yeah bitspower multi res is what i switched to too. awesome res. much more solid.

exact same reason i liked the ek res was that it has side ports.

might get another bitspower


----------



## OrcishMonkey

Dont listen to all teh crop circle hate i love my new csq system =)


----------



## VSG

Is TIM a requisite for VRMs, VRAMs and MOSFET on the 290X or other similar cards? If so, how much per component? I assume the TIM is between the component and the thermal pads and so, until you screw in the water block, the thermal pads won't have good contact with the components?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

My sig rig is loaded with EK components. Can I join?


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Tiborrr or Derickwm, can either of you tell me how thick the 7990 blocks are, I hope it is less than 20mm? otherwise it may not fit in my rig


----------



## tiborrr12

@OrcishMonkey: Glad you like it. What overclocks do you run on your cards?









@Gardnerphotos: regarding the HD7990 blocks. It's the same height as for example EK-FC Titan SE or EK-FC R9-290X. The block is about 14,5mm higher than the PCB.


----------



## esberelias

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Very clean and stealth-looking. Great work


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> ^this. very clean indeed. great work!


appreciate that fellas!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Is TIM a requisite for VRMs, VRAMs and MOSFET on the 290X or other similar cards? If so, how much per component? I assume the TIM is between the component and the thermal pads and so, until you screw in the water block, the thermal pads won't have good contact with the components?


The EK instructions told me to add a small drop of tim on the vrams. I did use a tiny drop, and placed the thermal pad on top. I wish I could tell you if it made a difference or not, but I have no way of checking.


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Is TIM a requisite for VRMs, VRAMs and MOSFET on the 290X or other similar cards? If so, how much per component? I assume the TIM is between the component and the thermal pads and so, until you screw in the water block, the thermal pads won't have good contact with the components?


My understanding is that the reason for using TIM on the thermal pads is simply to hold them in place whilst you assemble the block. Thermal pads don't need any help to make good contact, they compress quite a bit to conform to the surface they are mounted on.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I didn't use TIM on any of my thermal pads and haven't had any issues. Its not a bad precaution but I don't personally think its necessary...


----------



## VSG

So just the vrams? I figure VRMs would benefit more, if at all, from this. I don't really know if MOSFETs need TIM in addition to a thermal pad.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

The pads themselves are designed to transfer as much heat as is necessary. The TIM doesn't really add anything IMO...


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So just the vrams? I figure VRMs would benefit more, if at all, from this. I don't really know if MOSFETs need TIM in addition to a thermal pad.


VRMs were too small for me to apply it. lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> The pads themselves are designed to transfer as much heat as is necessary. The TIM doesn't really add anything IMO...


I gotta say, I felt awkward applying small drops on the vram modules, since the thermal pad seems to make perfect contact. The hydro copper blocks didnt require the use of tim on anything other than the GPU.


----------



## VSG

The installation guide for the 290X block recommends TIM on "all phase regulators". It would be nice for a rep to confirm this, especially if they have some testing and temperature numbers to go with it.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The installation guide for the 290X block recommends TIM on "all phase regulators". It would be nice for a rep to confirm this, especially if they have some testing and temperature numbers to go with it.


You can't go wrong with adding a little bit, I doubt it will make a significant difference.


----------



## derickwm

We create all the manuals manually and are inspected for each individual product. If it says to do so, go ahead 

Don't have any specific numbers for you though.


----------



## VSG

So TIM on vram, vrm and MOSFET then? I might do a "with and without" to see if there is any difference.


----------



## OrcishMonkey

Finished my new CFX 290X Phantom build with all ek blockx

http://www.overclock.net/t/1436443/build-log-my-phantom-is-kinda-heavy-now-three-rads-og-phantom-completed


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrcishMonkey*
> 
> Finished my new CFX 290X Phantom build with all ek blockx
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1436443/build-log-my-phantom-is-kinda-heavy-now-three-rads-og-phantom-completed


Looks Fantastic








BUT I'm a bit concerned about the hose between top GPU and rear Rad.
Looks to have a slight kink.
Hope not - maybe it's just the photo OR how I'm seeing it


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Beautiful rig but yeah, looks like a kink...


----------



## OrcishMonkey

its on the verge of a kink but its good i think, temps and flow are good even when benching and warmed up. ty though


----------



## hotrod717

Just received my new pump top. Can't wait to get this in the new build.


----------



## KONA604

thought id post my build with all EK Blocks and a EK Rez here it is

Specs

Case:
Corsair Obsidian 900D ATX Super Tower Case w/ Window 4X5.25 9X3.5INT USB3.0 No PSU

MB:
ASUS Maximus VI Formula 1150 Socket Z87 Chipset w/ Thermal Armour

CPU:
Intel Core i7 4770K Unlocked Haswell Quad Core 3.5GHZ Processor LGA1150 8MB Cache Retail

Cooling:
EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel (EK-Supremacy - Nickel)
EK Geforce GTX Titan SE VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Original CSQ Nickel (EK-FC Titan SE (Original CSQ) - Nickel)
EK D5 X-Top Acetal Pump Top CSQ w/Swiftech MCP655-B Pump Installed
EK-MultiOption RES X3 250 - Liquid Cooling Reservoir (6 Total Ports)
EK FC Bridge Dual Parallel CSQ - SLI Connection - Plexi (EK-FC Bridge DUAL Parallel CSQ Plexi)
Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper Quad 120mm Radiator
Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Triple 120mm Radiator
Alphacool Compression Fitting - G 1/4 Thread 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD (16/10mm) - Chrome
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8"ID x 5/8" OD - 10ft Retail Pack - Bloodshed Red (PFLEXA10-58-R) w/ Free Sys Prep
Koolance High Performance Liquid Coolant Bottle - Fluorescent UV Red - 700cc (LIQ-702RD- B)
Bitspower G1/4" Acrylic Stop Fitting II w/ O-Ring (BP-ACSTII-BK)

GPU:
SLI ASUS GeForce GTX 780 900MHZ 3GB 6.0GHZ 2xDVI HDMI DisplayPort PCI-E

RAM:
Corsair Vengeance Pro Red CMY16GX3M2A1600C9R 32GB 4X8GB DDR3-1600 CL9 1.5V Dual Channel Memory Kit

PSU:
Corsair AX1200I 1200W Digital ATX 12V 80 Plus Platinum Modular Power Supply 140mm Fan

SSD:
Corsair Neutron Series GTX 240GB SATA3 2.5in 6GB/S LAMD LM87800 Solid State Disk Flash Drive SSD

HDD:
Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB SATA3 6GB/S 7200RPM 64MB Cache 3.5IN Dual Proc Hard Drive OEM
Seagate Barracuda 4TB SATA3 64MB Cache 3.5in Internal Hard Disk Drive
Seagate Barracuda 4TB SATA3 64MB Cache 3.5in Internal Hard Disk Drive


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> My understanding is that the reason for using TIM on the thermal pads is simply to hold them in place whilst you assemble the block. Thermal pads don't need any help to make good contact, they compress quite a bit to conform to the surface they are mounted on.


No, thermal pads are sticky as they are. The problem is if someone e.g. does multiple installation of blocks. The pad gets depleted of silicone oil hence it is wise to add some TIM. Otherwisethere is not need for it at all.


----------



## VSG

Thanks for settling that, Tiborr.


----------



## Ragsters

I noticed that for the EK MVF motherboard block the L shaped block does not cover the VRMs. Is it wise to install sinks on the VRMs or did EK make the block not full cover on purpose because they think it is not necessary?


----------



## Jakusonfire

The EK motherboard blocks cover ( or rather contact and cool ) the same components or more as the factory sink. If Asus don't think it needs it then it probably doesn't


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KONA604*
> 
> thought id post my build with all EK Blocks and a EK Rez here it is
> 
> Specs
> 
> Case:
> Corsair Obsidian 900D ATX Super Tower Case w/ Window 4X5.25 9X3.5INT USB3.0 No PSU
> 
> MB:
> ASUS Maximus VI Formula 1150 Socket Z87 Chipset w/ Thermal Armour
> 
> CPU:
> Intel Core i7 4770K Unlocked Haswell Quad Core 3.5GHZ Processor LGA1150 8MB Cache Retail
> 
> Cooling:
> EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel (EK-Supremacy - Nickel)
> EK Geforce GTX Titan SE VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Original CSQ Nickel (EK-FC Titan SE (Original CSQ) - Nickel)
> EK D5 X-Top Acetal Pump Top CSQ w/Swiftech MCP655-B Pump Installed
> EK-MultiOption RES X3 250 - Liquid Cooling Reservoir (6 Total Ports)
> EK FC Bridge Dual Parallel CSQ - SLI Connection - Plexi (EK-FC Bridge DUAL Parallel CSQ Plexi)
> Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper Quad 120mm Radiator
> Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Triple 120mm Radiator
> Alphacool Compression Fitting - G 1/4 Thread 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD (16/10mm) - Chrome
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8"ID x 5/8" OD - 10ft Retail Pack - Bloodshed Red (PFLEXA10-58-R) w/ Free Sys Prep
> Koolance High Performance Liquid Coolant Bottle - Fluorescent UV Red - 700cc (LIQ-702RD- B)
> Bitspower G1/4" Acrylic Stop Fitting II w/ O-Ring (BP-ACSTII-BK)
> 
> GPU:
> SLI ASUS GeForce GTX 780 900MHZ 3GB 6.0GHZ 2xDVI HDMI DisplayPort PCI-E
> 
> RAM:
> Corsair Vengeance Pro Red CMY16GX3M2A1600C9R 32GB 4X8GB DDR3-1600 CL9 1.5V Dual Channel Memory Kit
> 
> PSU:
> Corsair AX1200I 1200W Digital ATX 12V 80 Plus Platinum Modular Power Supply 140mm Fan
> 
> SSD:
> Corsair Neutron Series GTX 240GB SATA3 2.5in 6GB/S LAMD LM87800 Solid State Disk Flash Drive SSD
> 
> HDD:
> Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB SATA3 6GB/S 7200RPM 64MB Cache 3.5IN Dual Proc Hard Drive OEM
> Seagate Barracuda 4TB SATA3 64MB Cache 3.5in Internal Hard Disk Drive
> Seagate Barracuda 4TB SATA3 64MB Cache 3.5in Internal Hard Disk Drive





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Nice !







Building myself also with a Asus MF6, hopefully EK will show the block soon ( maybe this week ). Not sure even when Asus says it's ok, to put aluminium in my loop. Do think that Asus knows what they are doing. Anyway nice build love the case!


----------



## kpoeticg

I have yet to see Asus release a block that doesn't have a major flaw in it. "OK to...." is a relative term. Mixing Aluminum and Copper in a loop is a horrible idea. Asus never said it was OK to put aluminum in a loop. They said they Anodized the Aluminum in the water channel enough to withstand like 3 years of use, or something to that effect. They tested it somehow by using salt. No idea how that can simulate 3 years of conductivity in a water cooling environment. It's possible that it won't be a problem. Time will tell. I def wouldn't invest in an expensive custom loop and leave the Factory Block on though. Just my


----------



## pilotter

wait and hope, think EKWB will show something this week. So I can leave out the aluminium.


----------



## wermad

Any one know if there's a US retailer that sells replacement hardware kits? I needed some for the gpu blocks but there were non in stock from Ekwb.com







. I've already found the screws on ebay but I'm just curious if any retailer here in the US sells them.

New gpu setup. Its got a CSQ quad bridge too. I'll live since the puter will be going under my desk.




Waiting on opportunity to buy a Sniper5 block (if it ever comes out







) and a plexi bridge (will be unfrosted).


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any one know if there's a US retailer that sells replacement hardware kits? I needed some for the gpu blocks but there were non in stock from Ekwb.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've already found the screws on ebay but I'm just curious if any retailer here in the US sells them.
> 
> New gpu setup. Its got a CSQ quad bridge too. I'll live since the puter will be going under my desk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting on opportunity to buy a Sniper5 block (if it ever comes out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and a plexi bridge (will be unfrosted).


What hardware are you missing?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> What hardware are you missing?


some block screws but I found them on ebay for cheap and they'll ship from a here. Should get them in by this week. I found the complete hardware kit on their site but non in stock.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> some block screws but I found them on ebay for cheap and they'll ship from a here. Should get them in by this week. I found the complete hardware kit on their site but non in stock.


Gotcha. If you new the size you can always order from McMaster Carr.

You will need a screw size and thread checker, but they always have all the small weird size screws I need.


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> No, thermal pads are sticky as they are. The problem is if someone e.g. does multiple installation of blocks. The pad gets depleted of silicone oil hence it is wise to add some TIM. Otherwisethere is not need for it at all.


I always find the blinking things like to drop off just as I'm offering the block up to the card. A small blob of TIM stops that.

So you are saying that, for a fresh installation with new pads, the thermal paste is not a requirement, simply for when people re-use the pads. Interesting.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Gotcha. If you new the size you can always order from McMaster Carr.
> 
> You will need a screw size and thread checker, but they always have all the small weird size screws I need.


Yup, I always check mcmastercarr but they tend to sell too many for our small quanity needs sometimes. I just needed two but decided to replace all of them since some of the screws have a bit of a stripped head. There's a bunch of ebay sellers and it was cheaper then mcmastercarr.com. When I do need a lot, its usually where I go. I got my M4 rad screws there for my BI rads.

Gonna try to plumb them tonight and fire it up.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any one know if there's a US retailer that sells replacement hardware kits? I needed some for the gpu blocks but there were non in stock from Ekwb.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've already found the screws on ebay but I'm just curious if any retailer here in the US sells them.
> 
> New gpu setup. Its got a CSQ quad bridge too. I'll live since the puter will be going under my desk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting on opportunity to buy a Sniper5 block (if it ever comes out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and a plexi bridge (will be unfrosted).


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


I went generous on the pad for the vrm so I hope the blocks don't kill any of the cards


----------



## altsanity

Is there any timeframe for when the CSQ 290X blocks will be back in stock at EKWB? I put my order in a little while ago for one plus a few other goodies.

Mainly I just can't wait to get the pump tops and res so I can say goodbye to this annoying bay-res


----------



## hiarc

Quick question, will there be a Clean CSQ version of the current (possibly revision) D5 top?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Waiting on opportunity to buy a Sniper5 block (if it ever comes out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and a plexi bridge (will be unfrosted).


Very nice wermad!







Sniper 5 will be out tomorrow or day after tomorrow (depends on when we get to take the photos).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *altsanity*
> 
> Is there any timeframe for when the CSQ 290X blocks will be back in stock at EKWB? I put my order in a little while ago for one plus a few other goodies.
> 
> Mainly I just can't wait to get the pump tops and res so I can say goodbye to this annoying bay-res


The blocks are restocked daily, just place an order. 20, 30 blocks goes up in refresh, but another 20, 30 goes out of stock the very same moment. Irritating, but that's how it is!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Quick question, will there be a Clean CSQ version of the current (possibly revision) D5 top?


At the moment we only sell complete EK-D5 pumps with clear top: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-d5-vario-x-top-plexi-incl-pump.html

We have released EK-DCP 4.0 X-RES, a successor to EK-Reservoir Combo DCP 4.0. Made in Slovenia, just like EK-DDC and EK-D5 pump reservoir units it uses EK-RES X3 tubes hence it can re-use all the parts your EK-RES X3 uses!









http://www.ekwb.com/news/410/19/EK-introduces-DCP-4-0-X-RES-combo-pump-reservoir-unit/


----------



## altsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> The blocks are restocked daily, just place an order. 20, 30 blocks goes up in refresh, but another 20, 30 goes out of stock the very same moment. Irritating, but that's how it is!


Thanks for the feedback! Order has been placed. Now its just the waiting game









Wonder which I'll get first, the card or the block


----------



## Egami

Seeing that the 670 block covers the 760 series reference cards, is there any chance you guys might be willing to make a 760 marked version of the block / backplate?


----------



## esberelias

Man oh man there are some nice rigs / builds in here!

Here's my rig all finished up!










EK-HD tubing & fittings, GPU & CPU waterblocks & EK rad


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *esberelias*
> 
> Man oh man there are some nice rigs / builds in here!
> 
> Here's my rig all finished up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK-HD tubing & fittings, GPU & CPU waterblocks & EK rad


Very cool!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Sweet rig right there!


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> At the moment we only sell complete EK-D5 pumps with clear top: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-d5-vario-x-top-plexi-incl-pump.html


Ah, thanks for the reply! Let say I purchase it and maybe later down the road I purchase a D5 strong, the swap is just simply removing retention screws and placing the new pump in, or is it sealed tight with magic? (Plus the probable warranty loss which I am not too worried about)


----------



## saer

Ordering up the last small bits to put my new build together and was curious as to which of these parts is the correct one to use with this bridge ?

bridge being used
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BVKQ5TI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

bridge blanks in question
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0090WXCWM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekliblpa.html


----------



## VSG

I had a question about the EK FC Terminal- what exactly does the terminal blank accessory do? If I only need 1 input and 1 output and plan to plug up the other potential output, do I still need this?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Seeing that the 670 block covers the 760 series reference cards, is there any chance you guys might be willing to make a 760 marked version of the block / backplate?


Not at the moment.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> At the moment we only sell complete EK-D5 pumps with clear top: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-d5-vario-x-top-plexi-incl-pump.html
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, thanks for the reply! Let say I purchase it and maybe later down the road I purchase a D5 strong, the swap is just simply removing retention screws and placing the new pump in, or is it sealed tight with magic? (Plus the probable warranty loss which I am not too worried about)
Click to expand...

Yes it's quite easy to swap out for other D5s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Ordering up the last small bits to put my new build together and was curious as to which of these parts is the correct one to use with this bridge ?
> 
> bridge being used
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BVKQ5TI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> bridge blanks in question
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0090WXCWM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> or
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekliblpa.html


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-blank-parallel.html

This is the bridge you're looking for. Terminals are slightly different than CSQ bridges

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I had a question about the EK FC Terminal- what exactly does the terminal blank accessory do? If I only need 1 input and 1 output and plan to plug up the other potential output, do I still need this?


EK FC Terminal blank is if for example you bought a 3 slot terminal to cover a larger distance between just two cards. You'd want to block up where the 3rd card would go or water would pour out.


----------



## VSG

So if I bought a dual parallel 3-slot termimal do I still need a blank? Don't I technically only have openings for 2 cards but in a 3 slot distance?


----------



## derickwm

No.

Say you owned an Asus RIVE board and you didn't want to clump the cards together for whatever reason, maybe you just want to future proof your WC'ing setup. So you bought this. If you used the 1st and 3rd "slots" on the bridge with your 2 current GPUs, you'd put a blank on the middle one to prevent water from leaking onto your board.


----------



## VSG

OK got it, thanks Derick! I wanted to be sure I wasn't going to be leaking all over the place without the blank.


----------



## derickwm

No problem


----------



## pilotter

did you already design the M6F, really want to look how it will be combined with the armor


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Are there 290 blocks coming or are the 290x ones perfect for the 290 aswell ?


----------



## VSG

They are the same blocks.


----------



## MiiX

Got a question for you EKWB-masters on this forum:
Is the EK-DDC 3.2 PWM that is included in the EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-RES 100 the same pump as the MCP35X from Swiftech?


----------



## note

Would there be a gold plated GPU block anytime soon?

I'm hoping there would be one soon, cause this is very vital for a project that I'm currently doing.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Got a question for you EKWB-masters on this forum:
> Is the EK-DDC 3.2 PWM that is included in the EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-RES 100 the same pump as the MCP35X from Swiftech?


No. The MCP35x is the next evolution of pumps. It is stronger.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *note*
> 
> Would there be a gold plated GPU block anytime soon?
> 
> I'm hoping there would be one soon, cause this is very vital for a project that I'm currently doing.


I wouldn't hold your breathe for one. Things like gold plating require a lot of time to put into action. Maybe the 780 ti will get some, I'll chat with others about it.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> No. The MCP35x is the next evolution of pumps. It is stronger.


Actually they are the same. Mcp35x isn't stronger than any other DDC3.2-PWM.


----------



## note

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I wouldn't hold your breathe for one. Things like gold plating require a lot of time to put into action. Maybe the 780 ti will get some, I'll chat with others about it.


Thank you for the quick response!

Maybe you can chat them about a custom one for me.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

You'd be better off getting a normal block and having somebody gold plate for you...


----------



## note

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> You'd be better off getting a normal block and having somebody gold plate for you...


Would that be safe? Considering that water would run through the gold plating?

Imagine flakes of gold plating on my water loop..


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Actually they are the same. Mcp35x isn't stronger than any other DDC3.2-PWM.


Awesome, I just saw the specs beeing a but different, but I guess that its depending on the top?

The price I can get on the pump/top/tank kit is equal to a single MCP35X pump


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *note*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> You'd be better off getting a normal block and having somebody gold plate for you...
> 
> 
> 
> Would that be safe? Considering that water would run through the gold plating?
> 
> Imagine flakes of gold plating on my water loop..
Click to expand...

As long as it's quality plating you'll be fine. Note, our warranty is definitely voided if you have anyone other than us do the plating.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Awesome, I just saw the specs beeing a but different, but I guess that its depending on the top?
> 
> The price I can get on the pump/top/tank kit is equal to a single MCP35X pump


Yes it is just the pump top that makes a small increase in performance.


----------



## MiiX

Awesome, Do you think that mounting it horizontally will be a problem? Its the only way I can fit it, and the smallest res that actually fits in the case.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Awesome, Do you think that mounting it horizontally will be a problem? Its the only way I can fit it, and the smallest res that actually fits in the case.


Yes you can. You aren't suppose to mount it upsidedown or have it w/ the inlet facing down according to the DDC manual, IIRC.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Yes it is just the pump top that makes a small increase in performance.


I thought that was probably the case too but I can't understand why a 35X uses so much more power than a DDC3.25 non PWM with aftermarket top both at 12V

A PWM D5 is identical to a D5 Vario at 12V but Martin had the 35X up to nearly 26 watts while the DDC and Koolance top maxed at 18W


----------



## note

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> As long as it's quality plating you'll be fine. Note, our warranty is definitely voided if you have anyone other than us do the plating.


Is there any specific gold plating method I should look for?


----------



## LiL_JaSoN

just got given all these


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL_JaSoN*
> 
> just got given all these
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
Click to expand...


----------



## rickyman0319

do you guys know what is t he best position for EK Supreme HF / Supremacy to put on the mb with the best water flow on i7 4770k?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> do you guys know what is t he best position for EK Supreme HF / Supremacy to put on the mb with the best water flow on i7 4770k?


Can I add to this by asking which jet plates are reccomended for use with...
socket 1366 - 990X CPU
socket 2011 - 3960 X CPU
Cheers


----------



## derickwm

For LGA2011 see this graph:










For 4770k see this:










I'm not really sure on the 990X, I'll look around and if I find any numbers I'll let you know.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> For LGA2011 see this graph:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For 4770k see this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not really sure on the 990X, I'll look around and if I find any numbers I'll let you know.


Got some graphs like that for the 3750k i5? I think before summer, I'm going to go water. I was looking at the EK kit but I might just piece it out instead.


----------



## derickwm

Only for a 3770k


----------



## SeeThruHead

Formal request: if there is a 780ti classy, and ek makes a block for it. Can it pretty please cover the full board. Please.


----------



## tiborrr12

780Ti Classy will most likely be the very same Classy, therefore we won't be doing a new water block.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Oh. That's a shame.


----------



## crazedsilence

Put in my order for 2x 680 Full cover blocks with the backplates.

So excited to do this new loop


----------



## derickwm

Can't wait to see the pics


----------



## MrT0ad

Hey, Niko & Co any news on the block for the R6I?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrT0ad*
> 
> Hey, Niko & Co any news on the block for the R6I?


What is this mystical R6I you speak of?


----------



## MrT0ad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> What is this mystical R6I you speak of?


ASUS Rampage VI Impact









I believe pics of the sample were posted by Niko around page 72 of the thread a couple of weeks ago.

Along with the Unicorn/Manticore pr0n


----------



## derickwm

Surely you mean the Maximus VI Impact?

If so, we're hoping to have blocks available to order in a week or two.


----------



## kpoeticg

Have you guys had the opportunity to start working on a RIVE BE block? And if so, do you have any kind of ETA, or is it too early to tell?


----------



## derickwm

We haven't even got the board yet. Probably month to month and a half we'll put the block out once we have the board.


----------



## MrT0ad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Surely you mean the Maximus VI Impact?
> 
> If so, we're hoping to have blocks available to order in a week or two.


Can we settle for Maximus Rampage? Sounds catchy









Thanks for the info BTW


----------



## Magical Eskimo

So when can we expect 780Ti full cover CSQ blocks?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> So when can we expect 780Ti full cover CSQ blocks?


This. Looks like a single capacitor is preventing the 780 blocks from working.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Don't the full cover Titan SE blocks already have a cutout space for that cap?


----------



## derickwm

We'll keep you guys posted.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We haven't even got the board yet. Probably month to month and a half we'll put the block out once we have the board.


Figured as much. Never hurts to ask though. Thanks


----------



## Magical Eskimo

U da best derick


----------



## snef

any update on gtx780 hall of fame?

thanks


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Well, good news. Jacob just confirmed that the pcb on the 780Ti Classified is the exact same as the 780 Classy. So that means the EK FC Classified block should be a perfect fit on it









*Link-e*


----------



## derickwm

780 HOF is two to three weeks away.


----------



## snef

thanks


----------



## Kokin

Got my EK FC7950 Plexi Top yesterday. Bought some Mayhem's blue dye as well as some Primochill Advanced LRT clear tubing and clear G1/4 stop plugs to accent this block.







Hoping to have time to install it some time in the next few weeks.


----------



## Ragsters

^Was that a replacement part? Did you buy it from EKs website?


----------



## pilotter

derick do you still think that you can show pics of the MF6? and will it be out shortly?


----------



## szeged

any confirmation yet on 780/titan block working on 780ti? 780ti arrives tomorrow, would love to get it under water asap.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> any confirmation yet on 780/titan block working on 780ti? 780ti arrives tomorrow, would love to get it under water asap.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We'll keep you guys posted.


http://www.ekwb.com/news/412/19/EK-FC-Titan-SE-incompatible-with-NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-780-Ti---EK-FC780-GTX-Ti-in-the-making/


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> ^Was that a replacement part? Did you buy it from EKs website?


I originally bought the acetal/copper version and wanted the plexi top. I asked FrozenCPU to order it for me and they did.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/412/19/EK-FC-Titan-SE-incompatible-with-NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-780-Ti---EK-FC780-GTX-Ti-in-the-making/


ah thanks, well...any info on what is making it incompatible? i have a cnc mill at work i could try to get it to work


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/412/19/EK-FC-Titan-SE-incompatible-with-NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-780-Ti---EK-FC780-GTX-Ti-in-the-making/


It doesn't say it won't fit. It says "layout is preventing safe use"







.

It will likely be a week or two before I get a GTX780Ti otherwise I'd try it out.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It doesn't say it won't fit. It says "layout is preventing safe use"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> It will likely be a week or two before I get a GTX780Ti otherwise I'd try it out.


hmm, preventing safe use...to take the risk...







well my card will be here tomorrow, so ill let you know what is unsafe about it unless an EK rep lets us know before then


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ah thanks, well...any info on what is making it incompatible? i have a cnc mill at work i could try to get it to work


The pictures above show the different spacing of the capacitors as well as the VRMs.


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> derick do you still think that you can show pics of the MF6? and will it be out shortly?


----------



## Ryanboost

Just received my EK-FC780 GTX Classy and totally over looked something.

Can I still use my EVGA Classified backplate?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> derick do you still think that you can show pics of the MF6? and will it be out shortly?
Click to expand...

I don't have any, I'll try to get ahold of someone who might. I haven't really been caught up with that block yet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanboost*
> 
> Just received my EK-FC780 GTX Classy and totally over looked something.
> 
> Can I still use my EVGA Classified backplate?


I believe it's possible, you may have to buy a few extra screws.


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I don't have any, I'll try to get ahold of someone who might. I haven't really been caught up with that block yet.


thanks Derick, happy to hear that ekwb is working on it.


----------



## oicwutudidthar

Any release date on that M6I block yet? It's awesome how it has a proper CPU block unlike the crappy bitspower mitx ones.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oicwutudidthar*
> 
> Any release date on that M6I block yet? It's awesome how it has a proper CPU block unlike the crappy bitspower mitx ones.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> [...]
> 
> If so, we're hoping to have blocks available to order in a week or two.


----------



## derickwm

Hoping to have it ready to order in the next couple weeks. It's quite a complicated block


----------



## oicwutudidthar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hoping to have it ready to order in the next couple weeks. It's quite a complicated block


and expensive I'm assuming


----------



## derickwm

Heh yes maybe a little. Price should be competitive with BP's though.


----------



## oicwutudidthar

And hopefully it will have much better CPU cooling performance!


----------



## derickwm

I can pretty much guarantee that


----------



## oicwutudidthar




----------



## Elmy

2 EK 290X Plexi/Nickel waterblocks on Club3D 290X's

You can see I changed the black screws with Stainless steel to match my mod.


----------



## WiSK

Ordered PE120 and PE240 in September as soon as I saw them, still waiting on the PE120 to arrive. These must be very popular! But I haven't seen many build logs with them


----------



## kpoeticg

I was thinking of using a PE240 in my build, but i only had room for one set of GT AP-00's on it so i went with an ST30. Wasn't sure if one set of fans would be enough for the 38FPI


----------



## Maako

Hi again, i saw a post about g1 sniper 5 block 4 days ago and it said that release will be 2 days from the post, still nothing in ekwb site. Its allready 2 months late, can you just tell us that its never going to happen so i can buy different motherboard and start to make my build? I know that iwont get an answer to this but i have to try, im fed up with the constant delays


----------



## MiiX

How does the PE rads perform against, say a Alphacool UT60 or the XTX series?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> How does the PE rads perform against, say a Alphacool UT60 or the XTX series?


The xtx rad has about 1-2 higher fpi than the alphacool radiators so that would mean slightly higher rpm fans if you wanna get a perfect scaling.. But regarding the thickness, at least for the alphacools line, it really hasnt anything to say on cooling performance (just a couple of watts cooling capability), as long as the rads are the same size, 120 vs 120, 420 vs 420 ect.

I would link you the qoute from test results if i know where i read them, but i only know they are somewhere in the official phanteks enthoo primo owners club


----------



## MiiX

I know the XTX and UT60 is close, but I want to know if the PE is worth buying over the UT60 or the XTX series. Really want a fully "EK" setup but cooling performance is crucial to the build


----------



## szeged

any eta on 780 ti blocks?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maako*
> 
> Hi again, i saw a post about g1 sniper 5 block 4 days ago and it said that release will be 2 days from the post, still nothing in ekwb site. Its allready 2 months late, can you just tell us that its never going to happen so i can buy different motherboard and start to make my build? I know that iwont get an answer to this but i have to try, im fed up with the constant delays


Hi. Sometimes delays happen that are out of our control. The block is definitely coming, I'll try to get a better estimate in the morning.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> any eta on 780 ti blocks?


"Soon"


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> "Soon"


FSKLfhisaldhflasfuhap9ef8lo;iawefUJASJFKHALFAHJKFHLAFFHK:fJKAF:FA)FA{AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

hate

so much hate


----------



## derickwm

The cards aren't even available yet


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The cards aren't even available yet


for you guys?

because im using one right now


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> "Soon" Soon™


Fixed.


----------



## tiborrr12

Haha









We will have first blocks on Wednesday or Thursday, they're already being manufactured. Maybe sooner, but no promises.


----------



## pilotter

tiborr, can you give some info what the MF6 block will be covering / cooling? assuming you will leave the armor of the beautifull board intact?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We will have first blocks on Wednesday or Thursday, they're already being manufactured. Maybe sooner, but no promises.


for the 780ti? if so ill go ahead and just give you all my money now







im having insane luck with these cards on air, might go ahead and grab 3-4 more cards to bin them and see how it goes


----------



## Jeffinslaw

I've got a request/favor from anyone in the EK club: I have an ASUS Rampage III Extreme Black Edition with the EK full cover board block however, it is lacking *four* of the 2.1MM acetal standoffs that EK seems to be the only company that used them. I can't locate them anywhere. I was wondering if anyone has any extras or know of some mystical land where I could find them...

Oh yah, EK pictures...














































Grrr... I guess I didn't get any pictures of my 7970 blocks... they are very nice as well.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## tiborrr12

Excellent photos. Regarding the missing 2.1mm standoffs. Contact Frozen CPU and tell them to send you some.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I've got a request/favor from anyone in the EK club: I have an ASUS Rampage III Extreme Black Edition with the EK full cover board block however, it is lacking *four* of the 2.1MM acetal standoffs that EK seems to be the only company that used them. I can't locate them anywhere. I was wondering if anyone has any extras or know of some mystical land where I could find them...
> 
> Oh yah, EK pictures...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grrr... I guess I didn't get any pictures of my 7970 blocks... they are very nice as well.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


What a sexy block and board


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> What a sexy block and board


My photography doesn't do it justice lol. Wait until December when I'm at home, I will get some proper pictures for everyone. Been reading up on how to *properly* use my camera.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## derickwm

I still have dibs on buying it back if you end up selling


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I still have dibs on buying it back if you end up selling


It will be placed in a nice large, black frame behind bulletproof glass and hung on my wall before I ever think about selling it bwahahaha


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> tiborr, can you give some info what the MF6 block will be covering / cooling? assuming you will leave the armor of the beautifull board intact?


I spoil you guys too much


----------



## Jakusonfire

Perfection ... That is exactly what the Sabertooth needs too.


----------



## VSG

Wow I might just buy that for the sheer beauty alone. Great job incorporating into the motherboard's design. Now all I need is pricing and availability.


----------



## VSG

Wait, is the heatsink next to the 2nd PCI-E lane and below the RAM slots just for looks or is it included in the loop? I imagine it would be tough for dual GPU configurations.


----------



## kpoeticg

Is that the LT version or are u guys leaving the aluminum channels on the board?


----------



## tiborrr12

That's our block under the plastic cover, not the original ASUS one!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Wait, is the heatsink next to the 2nd PCI-E lane and below the RAM slots just for looks or is it included in the loop? I imagine it would be tough for dual GPU configurations.


No, it sits in between, just like on M5F. This way both PCIe slots are usable when using EK blocks with backplates. We haven't compromised these.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> That's our block under the plastic cover, not the original ASUS one!


Well the fact that i had to ask should be considered a compliment LOL. Wow, that looks perfect.

I didn't know that was just plastic covering the mosfet block


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> No, it sits in between, just like on M5F. This way both PCIe slots are usable when using EK blocks with backplates. We haven't compromised these.


Great, now it pretty much comes down to timing. Any idea on release date? Pretty please?


----------



## hoodrich

Hey yall. Looking to join the EK club pretty soon. I am going to be setting up an SLI config on the gigabyte board GA-X79-UP4:

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4288#fq

So I believe I am going to be using the 1st and 5th PCI lanes. Which CSQ bridge am I going to be using?

Is it, EK FC Bridge Triple Serial CSQ?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17484/ex-blc-1349/EK_FC_Bridge_Triple_Serial_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Acrylic_EK-FC_Bridge_TRIPLE_Serial_CSQ_Plexi.html?tl=g57c645s2062&id=n2PwQkfM&mv_pc=5200

Also, does parallel vs serial matter? I want the inlet to come from the top, and then outlet to the right (like an L-shaped flow). Thank you!


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hoodrich*
> 
> Hey yall. Looking to join the EK club pretty soon. I am going to be setting up an SLI config on the gigabyte board GA-X79-UP4:
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4288#fq
> 
> So I believe I am going to be using the 1st and 5th PCI lanes. Which CSQ bridge am I going to be using?
> 
> Is it, EK FC Bridge Triple Serial CSQ?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17484/ex-blc-1349/EK_FC_Bridge_Triple_Serial_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Acrylic_EK-FC_Bridge_TRIPLE_Serial_CSQ_Plexi.html?tl=g57c645s2062&id=n2PwQkfM&mv_pc=5200
> 
> Also, does parallel vs serial matter? I want the inlet to come from the top, and then outlet to the right (like an L-shaped flow). Thank you!


For the port, serial or parallel do not matter, you can set the ports in any way you like... i like parallel imo..









I will be joining this club very soon as i'm waiting on for rest of my WC gears arrives.. will post pics soon


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I spoil you guys too much










:thumbsups

so no more aluminium?









thanks Tiborr you will never spoil us too much







I will pay it back!


----------



## hoodrich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> For the port, serial or parallel do not matter, you can set the ports in any way you like... i like parallel imo..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be joining this club very soon as i'm waiting on for rest of my WC gears arrives.. will post pics soon


Thanks for the info Lion. Did I link the correct bridge there for my setup?


----------



## saer

Do you guys have an all black mounting kit for the supremacy ? Please say yes










I was able to buy one for my old supreme hf


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Do you guys have an all black mounting kit for the supremacy ? Please say yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to buy one for my old supreme hf


Use heatshrink over the screw and spring. Then Plasti-Dip the screw caps.









The hardware in these pics were originally silver. Honestly the Plasti-Dipped screw caps look WAY better than the black ones I bought for my Supreme HFs.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-7-7.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-8-4.jpg.html

EDIT: Post 1000!


----------



## saer

^Great tip, I'll definitely try that out instead +1


----------



## Elmy

A lot of EK gear in this rig


----------



## Furious Pcs

For The MSI N780 Lightning Full-Cover water block I really don't like the design of it. With the 780 you want to show it off and a plain black and silver design is just not appealing. I would rather prefer a Nickel Plexi version. The visual aspect of the build is better when i see coolant in my water blocks.


----------



## szeged

When do you guys think you will have more plexi/nickle 780 classy blocks in stock? wanna grab one to have for the 780ti classy when it drops :x cant find any at performance-pcs, frozencpu or ekwb.com


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furious Pcs*
> 
> For The MSI N780 Lightning Full-Cover water block I really don't like the design of it. With the 780 you want to show it off and a plain black and silver design is just not appealing. I would rather prefer a Nickel Plexi version. The visual aspect of the build is better when i see coolant in my water blocks.












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> When do you guys think you will have more plexi/nickle 780 classy blocks in stock? wanna grab one to have for the 780ti classy when it drops :x cant find any at performance-pcs, frozencpu or ekwb.com


Soon™


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Soon™


ffffffffffffffffFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF


----------



## wermad

No sniper5 block too







.


----------



## derickwm

Yeah I'm not sure what the holdup on that one is. Some things just get pushed on the back burner for a while and there's usually a longer period between when we show the first prototype to full on production. Blame the 780 Ti/Nvidia


----------



## Pheozero

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21015/ex-pmp-246/EK_D5_X-Top_Pump_Top_w_D5_Vario_Pump_-_Acrylic_EK-D5_Vario_X-TOP_-_Plexi_incl_pump.html?tl=g30c107s1802#blank

So does EK not sell this pump top separately? I can only find it as a pump top + pump combo.


----------



## Eufawria

Hey guys.
Some guy just gave me a bunch of bits c47 and 48 fittings and i know that the tubing is 10/12 to fit these. I know EK sell these sizes and was wondering from any experience, will they fit. I mean I know it's the same size but I need to be re-assured by people who have actually tried it. EK reseller her in OZ is like $10 for two 500mm while places like e22 is expensive when the i convert pounds into aud plus international shipping.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No sniper5 block too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Will be up in couple of minutes, sorry there bro.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No sniper5 block too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-ga-g1-sniper-5-acetal-nickel.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21015/ex-pmp-246/EK_D5_X-Top_Pump_Top_w_D5_Vario_Pump_-_Acrylic_EK-D5_Vario_X-TOP_-_Plexi_incl_pump.html?tl=g30c107s1802#blank
> 
> So does EK not sell this pump top separately? I can only find it as a pump top + pump combo.


As of right now only the pump combo.


----------



## tiborrr12

G1.Sniper 5 is out: http://www.ekwb.com/news/414/19/EK-introduces-GIGABYTE-G1-Sniper-5-water-block/


----------



## VSG

Wait so the G1 Sniper series also uses aluminum in its MOSFET block? When will these manufacturers stop cutting costs like this!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Wait so the G1 Sniper series also uses aluminum in its MOSFET block? When will these manufacturers stop cutting costs like this!


I never heard that. I know they use 3/8" Fixed Nickel Barbs though.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Wait so the G1 Sniper series also uses aluminum in its MOSFET block? When will these manufacturers stop cutting costs like this!


The pipe that comes in to contact with the coolant is nickel plated copper. The heatsink around it is aluminum.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Wait so the G1 Sniper series also uses aluminum in its MOSFET block? When will these manufacturers stop cutting costs like this!


What? The cover is stainless steel. We never use aluminum!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> What? The cover is stainless steel. We never use aluminum!


i think he meant on the stock water channel on the mobo


----------



## tiborrr12

Oh, yes, the stock cooler. I believe stock cooler is nickel plated copper pipe pressed and glued into aluminum heatsink.


----------



## VSG

lol yes, the stock cooler- not you guys









So ETA on the M6F board still a secret then?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol yes, the stock cooler- not you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So ETA on the M6F board still a secret then?


Soon™


----------



## szeged

someone take dericks posting rights away please


----------



## VSG

BAN HIM NOW!!


----------



## tiborrr12

Soon™. Will know more tomorrow.


----------



## VSG

I feel like all the EK reps are loving their power on the forums a bit too much


----------



## derickwm

What power? I lost all my power when I became a rep


----------



## Jeffinslaw

That Sniper board block looks really good!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I feel like all the EK reps are loving their power on the forums a bit too much


True dat!







Will let you know about EK-FB KIT ASUS M6F release date tomorrow when I talk to our production line manager. I need to coordinate this in these hectic times (R9 290(X), GTX 780 Ti, ...).

Also, we now finally have all the PrimoChill UV LRT Advanced tubing in our offer, in all sizes. Might be interesting for EU customers:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/recently-added/


----------



## szeged

getting ready for the evga 780ti classified release -



now i need to find an evbot.


----------



## derickwm

Keepin us in business!


----------



## szeged

someones gotta keep the niche market within a niche market alive!


----------



## VSG

Darn right, who else would have time to make such beautiful blocks and still trademark words?


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Surely you mean the Maximus VI Impact?
> 
> If so, we're hoping to have blocks available to order in a week or two.


patiently waiting,hopefully they will be available here in US
P.S. I think you mention this about a week and half ago ...


----------



## ozzy1925

is it possible to use liquid ultra with naked ivy kit + nickel ek cpu block ?or the block must only be copper?


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> is it possible to use liquid ultra with naked ivy kit + nickel ek cpu block ?or the block must only be copper?


You can and it will be easier to clean off the CLU off Nickel vs copper. I used it on my copper supremacy and it stained the hell out of it however, it cleans off easily from nickel plated surfaces.


----------



## derickwm

They will but probably take another week for retailers to have them.


----------



## MrT0ad

Hey, will the Maximus (Rampage... you can't beat a maximus rampage... kind of like the Vandals on the second sack of Rome) VI Impact block work with naked die or the CPU has to be clothed?


----------



## wermad

Thanks Derick and Tiborr











Gonna wait for it to hit a US retailer first







.


----------



## MiiX

More Soon™ on the Impact block?

I think I have a final setup for watercooling, its ALL EK








PrimoFlex Advanced LRT, 3/8"ID -5/8"OD, red (well, not EK, but its used by EK AFAIK)
1x EK-DDC 3.2 PWM + X-RES 100 combo
1x EK - Ekoolant, Red
1x EK RAD XTX (120), 1x120-64
4x EK CSQ 90°, 1/4"BSPx1/4"BSP
1x EK-Supremacy CSQ
6x EK CSQ 3/8"ID - 5/8"OD fittings


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Derick and Tiborr
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna wait for it to hit a US retailer first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


That board is even color coordinated to your avatar....


----------



## Akula

Project Mercury - Completed
Build Log - http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/56428-project-mercury-caselabs-s3-watercooled-gtx-titan-completed/


----------



## MrT0ad

Very clean and accomplished. I like those little CaseLabs cases







they put a lot of thought in their designs.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21015/ex-pmp-246/EK_D5_X-Top_Pump_Top_w_D5_Vario_Pump_-_Acrylic_EK-D5_Vario_X-TOP_-_Plexi_incl_pump.html?tl=g30c107s1802#blank
> 
> So does EK not sell this pump top separately? I can only find it as a pump top + pump combo.


It's not exactly the same due to the circles, but you could alternatively defrost this to what you're looking for couldn't you?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17667/ex-pmp-222/EK_D5_X-Top_Acrylic_Pump_Top_CSQ_-_Laing_D5_and_Swiftech_MCP-650655_EK-D5_X-TOP_CSQ_-_Plexi.html


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Project Mercury - Completed
> Build Log - http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/56428-project-mercury-caselabs-s3-watercooled-gtx-titan-completed/


wow nice


----------



## kpoeticg

Damn Akula, that's one sexxxxxy build. Great job!!!


----------



## SeeThruHead

Hey ek! Is there an accessory that I can screw into the ek ddc dual top to fill up the recessed area around the inlet?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Hey ek! Is there an accessory that I can screw into the ek ddc dual top to fill up the recessed area around the inlet?


There was but it EOL. It was an adapter to use with EK-Multioption RES X2, which is also EOL. We will soon do a new Dual DDC top which will - just like any other modern EK pump top - use RES X3 parts.


----------



## pilotter

tiborr, do you know something about the pricing for the m6F block?


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> There was but it EOL. It was an adapter to use with EK-Multioption RES X2, which is also EOL. We will soon do a new Dual DDC top which will - just like any other modern EK pump top - use RES X3 parts.


I would love if you guys were to make a dual ddc clean csq top to replace my mcp35x2 top. I'm upgrading from my xspc blocks to the much more beautiful clean csq blocks on my ram and cpu and would love something to match. The perfect block IMO would be a clean csq without the circle cutout for reservoir mounting (ruins the looks IMO, would be much better to have it on an adaptor.)

On that note are you guys coming out with a clean csq version of the dual d5 pump top?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> tiborr, do you know something about the pricing for the m6F block?


Haven't got around to set it yet.

@SeeThruHead: Will be exactly as you describe it!


----------



## saer

Just curious, does anyone remember how long it took EK to release the mobo block for the RIVE ? Or perhaps have any idea how long it will take them to make a block for the new RIVBE ?

More importantly, can I pre-order one now?


----------



## derickwm

We're hoping to have it released around a month or so after the launch of the R4BE.


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We're hoping to have it released around a month or so after the launch of the R4BE.


Thats gonna be a loooooooooong month, probably longer than the month+ I've been waiting for the RIVBE to release


----------



## pcmonky

Will you be releasing a block for the MSI Xpower z87 board?

I've had people say yes and no.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcmonky*
> 
> Will you be releasing a block for the MSI Xpower z87 board?
> 
> I've had people say yes and no.


No. It has been canceled due to lack of time, like other MSI Z87 offering. Check coolingconfigurator.com


----------



## VSG

Tiborr, how many people does EK employ if you don't mind giving an estimated number? I am astonished at how many products you guys seem to be making water blocks for.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Tiborr, how many people does EK employ if you don't mind giving an estimated number? I am astonished at how many products you guys seem to be making water blocks for.


Let's just say I did the majority of blocks released in 2013 apart from Titan (SE), Gigabyte mobo blocks and M6G









Believe it or not: Four people at the moment on the R&D. Will be five soon, hopefully. Was as low as 2 this yes.


----------



## derickwm

I'm pretty much the heart and soul of the company


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'm pretty much the heart and soul of the company


Derick is a troll! Do not feed him!

While he was in Slovenia I tried various methods to get rid of him, took him hiking after work on couple occasions which involved some light scrambling. Tried to lose the tail when searching for path. Tried to get rid of him on descents in pitch black darkness with no head lamp. I feed him gluten which I know he is allergic to - nothing helped.









I miss u bro <3


----------



## derickwm




----------



## VSG

I can feel the bromance all the way here!


----------



## MiiX

How long will you guys produce XTX series radiators?


----------



## tiborrr12

XTX is not being discontinued! Restock should be any day now.


----------



## Tomalak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> XTX is not being discontinued! Restock should be any day now.


I need a 360 rad for another build, but something thinner than XTX series. Am I understanding correctly that PE series is superior to XT? Was looking at Alphacool rads, but it will be cheaper to order from you guys, since you're more or less in the neighborhood.









I noticed the high FPI - would something like Ap15/Ap14 be ok? (only push)


----------



## tiborrr12

Yes, PE is superior to XT. Alphacool is more or less the same radiator as XT, the only difference being the material used.


----------



## Tomalak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Yes, PE is superior to XT. Alphacool is more or less the same radiator as XT, the only difference being the material used.


Thanks, the thickness of PE series is just right.







I guess Scythe GTs (1450 or 1850) will be enough for higher FPI.


----------



## tiborrr12

GT AP-14 will be enough, although you can take AP-15.


----------



## morencyam

Hey guys, I made my own thread about this but received no input so I though I'd come here and ask.

I recently tore my loop apart for some reworking and much needed cleaning. When I removed the GPU waterblocks(EK FC470GTX) I ruined the thermal pads that were already in place so now I need to get replacements. I know I can buy the EK branded ones from PPCs and FCPU, but I'm trying to save money anyway I can right now.

So I consulted the instruction sheet that came with the waterblocks and found out I need 1mm thick pads. Then I went to good ol' eBay and found a 100m x 100mm x 1mm silicone thermal pad. After some quick math I decided 1 sheet would be enough to replace everything that I ruined. It has a thermal conductivity rating of 3.2 W/mk.

So my question is would this pad work well with my waterblocks or should I try to find something with a higher thermal conductivity rating?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-100mmx100mmx1mm-GPU-CPU-Heatsink-Cooling-Thermal-Conductive-Silicone-Pad-/200787195504?pt=US_Thermal_Compounds_Supplies&hash=item2ebfd97670


----------



## tiborrr12

Here's the original installation manual: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109830093.pdf

You will need 1mm thick thermal pads. Buy as much 3rd party ones as you need to cover the aforementioned modules (RAM IC, VRM IC). That pad will be sufficient.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Hey guys, I made my own thread about this but received no input so I though I'd come here and ask.
> 
> I recently tore my loop apart for some reworking and much needed cleaning. When I removed the GPU waterblocks(EK FC470GTX) I ruined the thermal pads that were already in place so now I need to get replacements. I know I can buy the EK branded ones from PPCs and FCPU, but I'm trying to save money anyway I can right now.
> 
> So I consulted the instruction sheet that came with the waterblocks and found out I need 1mm thick pads. Then I went to good ol' eBay and found a 100m x 100mm x 1mm silicone thermal pad. After some quick math I decided 1 sheet would be enough to replace everything that I ruined. It has a thermal conductivity rating of 3.2 W/mk.
> 
> So my question is would this pad work well with my waterblocks or should I try to find something with a higher thermal conductivity rating?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-100mmx100mmx1mm-GPU-CPU-Heatsink-Cooling-Thermal-Conductive-Silicone-Pad-/200787195504?pt=US_Thermal_Compounds_Supplies&hash=item2ebfd97670


I've purchased sheets of thermal pad from the ebay chinese sellers for a while now and I've never had an issue w/ the pads. As long as its the thickness required for the application you're good







. Since I frequently change gpu(s) (







), I have some extra 0.5mm, 1.0mm, and 1.5mm pads for spares. I recently redid all four of my Ltg. blocks and I replaced the majority of the pad as i prefer single large pieces rather then numerous small pieces. There was no temp difference between the old stock ek pads vs the chinese ones. I usually get blue or gray. Most of these are marketed for laptops so its should be good for wc gpu.

Btw, is your "scratch" build back on???


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> XTX is not being discontinued! Restock should be any day now.


The amount of rads in stock isn't the problem, the thing is that I might have to build 2 builds that are identical instead of one


----------



## pcmonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> No. It has been canceled due to lack of time, like other MSI Z87 offering. Check coolingconfigurator.com


Awesome.









Looks like I'll have to go Asus next build.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Here's the original installation manual: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109830093.pdf
> 
> You will need 1mm thick thermal pads. Buy as much 3rd party ones as you need to cover the aforementioned modules (RAM IC, VRM IC). That pad will be sufficient.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've purchased sheets of thermal pad from the ebay chinese sellers for a while now and I've never had an issue w/ the pads. As long as its the thickness required for the application you're good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Since I frequently change gpu(s) (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), I have some extra 0.5mm, 1.0mm, and 1.5mm pads for spares. I recently redid all four of my Ltg. blocks and I replaced the majority of the pad as i prefer single large pieces rather then numerous small pieces. There was no temp difference between the old stock ek pads vs the chinese ones. I usually get blue or gray. Most of these are marketed for laptops so its should be good for wc gpu.
> 
> Btw, is your "scratch" build back on???


Thanks both of you for the info.

@wermad the acrylic and aluminum build was basically scrapped when I bought a house due to lack of time. I am, however, working on building a new desk very similar to the red harbinger cross desk and l3pd3sk. Progress is slow, but I will actually see this one to the end since I really don't have much of a desk at all right now


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcmonky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> No. It has been canceled due to lack of time, like other MSI Z87 offering. Check coolingconfigurator.com
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like I'll have to go Asus next build.
Click to expand...

Buy mainstream motherboards, get water blocks


----------



## pcmonky

EK stated they would be making a block for the x power z87 on June 20th of 2013.

The number of threads and likes to get a block going for either the x power or m power on thinkcell has far exceeded many asus threads.

Lesson to be learned, don't plan a build until EK actually releases the block.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcmonky*
> 
> Lesson to be learned, don't plan a build until products are actually released.


Fixed









That's why i cringe on putting together builds with brand new products unless they're on the market. Same goes for old, old, older stuff. Less headaches, plan on something with products readily and immediately available. If you don't plan to run multiple gpu(s), you can add some universal blocks to the board if you wanna get it under water







. I like the koolance uni mb blocks


----------



## derickwm

That's probably a smart lesson









We're just people after all and Murphy's law likes to haunt us almost daily.

People don't ask for Asus blocks because the mainstream ones are made by default. Visit our Facebook page and see how many people whine for us to hurry them up though









We will always try to make as many blocks as humanly possible and are infinity ahead of our competition in terms of variation of blocks AFAIK.

As stated on the previous page our staff is a lot smaller than most people realize.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Actually they are the same. Mcp35x isn't stronger than any other DDC3.2-PWM.


Then what is the difference between DCC3.25-PWM and DCC3.2-PWM?

There more I think about this, the more I want to get a 35x just to be sure I get the pump I want. But if one of these pumps are equally specced as the 35X, I'll take them any day, cause they are a LOT cheaper in Norway than the 35X's


----------



## VSG

Well one thing with the 35x is that it's stock top is actually pretty good as is, whereas with the 350/355 people have gained benefits by switching over to custom tops.


----------



## Kokin

Wow only two employees in the R&D during early 2013? That's pretty crazy for one of the largest names in watercooling. How many hours per week were you guys working then?


----------



## derickwm

Me? 60 at least. Tiborr? Maybe 30 on a good week.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Me? 60 at least. Tiborr? Maybe 30 on a good week.


LOL!!!


----------



## tiborrr12

Sorry for disappointment guys, but it's actually not our own fault completely.

We gave MSI 2 months of spare time for development but their mobo department didn't do squat, they have send us a board just last week (we asked for it in June). Their VGA department was better on the other hand.

Working hours vary by the time of the year and/or release of the new hardware, but they can be in excess of 60 hrs per week.


----------



## korruptedkaos

just got my 7990 blocks today

got a few different TIMS here

AS5
MX4
some XSPC stuff
& this EK ectotherm

what is EK's ectotherm TIM like

which one should I use? im thinking MX4?

would just use AS5 but I don't think there is enough of it.

anyone using the EK ectotherm or have any info on it?


----------



## tiborrr12

EK-Ectotherm is MX-2 performance level, +/- 0.1°C. Good TIM!

AS5 should go to rest finally. Last time I used it was in 2006.


----------



## korruptedkaos

k thanks, AS5 is all ive ever really used tbh, used a few others like mx2 & gc2 aswell,

going to use the mx4

im just about to put the block on now?

I take it the plastic washers go on after?

these instructions are confusing lol


----------



## tiborrr12

Confusing? What's confusing about it? Put the block on then secure it with M3x4 screws with washers underneath each spring. It's as easy as it gets


----------



## pilotter

Tiborr, mf6 block is still in testing fase, or really an end product?


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Confusing? What's confusing about it? Put the block on then secure it with M3x4 screws with washers underneath each spring. It's as easy as it gets


when you say springs? am I meant to install those original square gpu brackets?

is this right or not?



sorry I just want to be sure & there is about 20 washers left over so?


----------



## tiborrr12

Spring, ****, what was I thinking, I meant washer. People break my concentration all the time









Your installation looks good!

@pilotter: About M6F - It's partially manufactured, should be available next week™.


----------



## tSgt

Any thought on a *black anodized* mounting mechanism for the the EK-Supremacy ?

Really looking for some


----------



## derickwm

It's been thought about, just kind of on the back burner. Always new projects starting up, and we've got so many projects going on at one time, the really minor ones can slip through the cracks.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> More Soon™ on the Impact block?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have a final setup for watercooling, its ALL EK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PrimoFlex Advanced LRT, 3/8"ID -5/8"OD, red (well, not EK, but its used by EK AFAIK)
> 1x EK-DDC 3.2 PWM + X-RES 100 combo
> 1x EK - Ekoolant, Red
> 1x EK RAD XTX (120), 1x120-64
> 4x EK CSQ 90°, 1/4"BSPx1/4"BSP
> 1x EK-Supremacy CSQ
> 6x EK CSQ 3/8"ID - 5/8"OD fittings


----------



## derickwm

Are you only going to have a single 120mm of rad space? What are all the components you're cooling?


----------



## MiiX

Yep, thats all that fits in a SG05







To start off its a i7/5, hopefully with the M6I block. I may even add my GTX780 in the loop at a later time, but I will also have to _add a_ external rad if I do...

But the more I think about one 120mm rad cooling the CPU and having to add a external rad if I want the 780 under water aswell, the more I want to just do my first idea, 360 rad in a Core 1000. Just because the case with an external rad is allmost as big as a Core 1000...


----------



## tiborrr12

M6I is partially manufactured and will start assembling on Monday, first shipments on Thursday and Friday.


----------



## pcmonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Sorry for disappointment guys, but it's actually not our own fault completely.
> 
> We gave MSI 2 months of spare time for development but their mobo department didn't do squat, they have send us a board just last week (we asked for it in June). Their VGA department was better on the other hand.
> 
> Working hours vary by the time of the year and/or release of the new hardware, but they can be in excess of 60 hrs per week.


Wow.

I wont be buying MSI next build.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> M6I is partially manufactured and will start assembling on Monday, first shipments on Thursday and Friday.


how long before they hit the retail ,..sorry tiborrr but this the only component that keeps me away from completing the build
Thanks


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Perhaps this has been asked already but how much of a temp difference can I see when going from double 240PE to double 240XTX? All that on a 1.5v 4770k & 1.3v gtx 780 with schyte gt ap-15s on push only on about 1000-1200rpm

Also a question about the naked ivy kit, is it foolproof or can someone still break the core with it?

Thanks guys there is like a handful of you in the company, yet you manage to make the best blocks out there and also have time to help people out here on the forum wish there were more companies like EK.


----------



## Mas

Edit~ Starting separate thread instead


----------



## Triangle

lol I wish I had time to update this thread

:/


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well one thing with the 35x is that it's stock top is actually pretty good as is, whereas with the 350/355 people have gained benefits by switching over to custom tops.


But its not all the same pump? Is the only difference from the EK pump 3.2 and the MCP35X the top?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> how long before they hit the retail ,..sorry tiborrr but this the only component that keeps me away from completing the build
> Thanks


Thursday-friday next week.


----------



## MrT0ad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Thursday-friday next week.


Is that valid for the UK too?









Oh, and now that we are on the subject of this block, will it work with naked CPU or you need the CPU "clothed" (IHS on).

Thankoo


----------



## tSgt

Question for EK,

With the release of the RIVBE, will you consider to do a X79-Deluxe block too ? Both motherboards look really similar with heatsink positions.


----------



## Jflisk

Ek_tiborrr

What about mosfet coolers for the asus sabertooth r1-r2-r3 990fx. They run hot and i have yet to find anything to fit them directly to cool them down.There would have to be 2 one for the mosfets one for the northbridge. Thanks


----------



## pozativenrgy

I am trying to price out my first lopp and was hoping for some help. I have no idea how to choose fitting. There are so many diff sizes. I am looking at the EK Res X3 250, 2x EK Rad PE 240 and the EK DCP 4.0. Any help is appreciated.


----------



## kpoeticg

The stuff you just listed has nothing to do with fitting sizes. They all have G1/4 Ports, but G1/4 is the standard thread size. Look at pics of different tubing and picture which size you want in your rig. Then order the fittings that correlate.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> how long before they hit the retail ,..sorry tiborrr but this the only component that keeps me away from completing the build
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Thursday-friday next week.
Click to expand...

Thank you Sir


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Question for EK,
> 
> With the release of the RIVBE, will you consider to do a X79-Deluxe block too ? Both motherboards look really similar with heatsink positions.


We'll check it out and see if it's feasible.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Ek_tiborrr
> 
> What about mosfet coolers for the asus sabertooth r1-r2-r3 990fx. They run hot and i have yet to find anything to fit them directly to cool them down.There would have to be 2 one for the mosfets one for the northbridge. Thanks


No plans for anymore 990FX boards at this time. Tell AMD to release a new chipset and we'll make them some new blocks 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pozativenrgy*
> 
> I am trying to price out my first lopp and was hoping for some help. I have no idea how to choose fitting. There are so many diff sizes. I am looking at the EK Res X3 250, 2x EK Rad PE 240 and the EK DCP 4.0. Any help is appreciated.


It really comes down to preference but in the office we generally use 3/8 ID 5/8 OD tubing. Not really fat like the 1/2 ID 3/4 OD stuff and has nice wall thickness. For this size tubing you can either use these kind of compression fittings or these barbs.


----------



## badtaylorx

just like to bring this up with the REP.....

could pass something along to the R&D dept.??? The Mosfet blocks you guys have been puting out for the Asus Maximus line, make the mSATA SSD's that people shell out HUNDREDS for useless....









http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/ekproo_zps978d423f.png.html

It appears this problem has followed through to the M6 line now too.....


----------



## SeeThruHead

I'm coming back to the club!


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> just like to bring this up with the REP.....
> 
> could pass something along to the R&D dept.??? The Mosfet blocks you guys have been puting out for the Asus Maximus line, make the mSATA SSD's that people shell out HUNDREDS for useless....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/ekproo_zps978d423f.png.html
> 
> It appears this problem has followed through to the M6 line now too.....


Thanks for the photo, I will certainly look into this. M6E shouldn't have this problem, I will check on Monday. As far as I know it is the issue with M5F but not others.


----------



## Drifbau5

Does anyone know if EK blocks have some sort of incompatibility with monsoon fittings. When I first got my block for my 770 i pluggled the extra ports on it with monsoon plugs because of the color. then i noticed some water leaking around the plugs. So i just switched to the ones EK pack with the blocks and no more leaks there.

But today I noticed some moisture around the outlet fitting on my block. Its really easy to see it because of the acetal but i cant take a picture of it. I just see moisture around the monsoon fitting. The acetal around the bitspower adapter on the inlet port is completely dry

Now I really don't know what to do. I don't know if its a problem with my threads on my block or with my fittings


----------



## coolhandluke41

^^ drain the system/inspect the threads on POM (hopefully you didn't stripped the thread) ,see if the "O" ring is slipping inside /apply some Teflon tape as the last resource (don't over tighten=no tools require -tighten with your hand)


----------



## Drifbau5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> ^^ drain the system/inspect the threads on POM (hopefully you didn't stripped the thread) ,see if the "O" ring is slipping inside /apply some Teflon tape as the last resource (don't over tighten=no tools require -tighten with your hand)


What am I looking for? What would it look like if it's stripped?


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> ^^ drain the system/inspect the threads on POM (hopefully you didn't stripped the thread) ,see if the "O" ring is slipping inside /apply some Teflon tape as the last resource (don't over tighten=no tools require -tighten with your hand)
> 
> 
> 
> What am I looking for? What would it look like if it's stripped?
Click to expand...

https://www.google.com/search?q=stripped+thread+picture&newwindow=1&rlz=1C1ASUC_enUS553US554&espv=210&es_sm=93&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=C8OGUqC9M6GI2wXlwYCQCg&ved=0CC4QsAQ&biw=1920&bih=964


----------



## VSG

Hey guys, I got a dual GPU terminal and I wanted to know if there is any performance cost if I use the usual outlet (bottom right side) as inlet and the usual inlet (top left side) as the outlet. Any thoughts?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hey guys, I got a dual GPU terminal and I wanted to know if there is any performance cost if I use the usual outlet (bottom right side) as inlet and the usual inlet (top left side) as the outlet. Any thoughts?


CSQ instruction sheet says can go either way - no problems


----------



## VSG

Ya I saw that too but wanted to know if the EK reps had observed anything since then. I might have to reverse the order of my loop for a cleaner run, I didn't anticipate that my particular combination of reservoir, radiator and dual GPU blocks would result in potentially sharp turns.


----------



## Birk

I just received my waterblocks for my video card, I'm trying to install the FC-Link onto the card but there is no instructions.
There is the Link itself, 4 gaskets, 2 thin and 2 thick. I see the 3 Torx screws I remove from the GPU block but they're not long enough to then go through the Link as well as the block.

Am I missing something ?

Blocks are

EK-FC-7970-DCII
EK-FC-Link R48x0/58x0


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Birk*
> 
> I just received my waterblocks for my video card, I'm trying to install the FC-Link onto the card but there is no instructions.
> There is the Link itself, 4 gaskets, 2 thin and 2 thick. I see the 3 Torx screws I remove from the GPU block but they're not long enough to then go through the Link as well as the block.
> 
> Am I missing something ?
> 
> Blocks are
> 
> EK-FC-7970-DCII
> EK-FC-Link R48x0/58x0


The "classic" FC-Links need two 20mm and one 25mm long screws. Pic and instructions:



http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109855157.pdf.

edit: according to the listings, these screws come w/ the "classic" FC-Bridge and not the link.


----------



## Birk

Thanks, I got them brand new sealed from Dazmode, he had to order some in for me with my blocks, its odd that neither one came with the hardware


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Birk*
> 
> Thanks, I got them brand new sealed from Dazmode, he had to order some in for me with my blocks, its odd that neither one came with the hardware


My bad, looks like it comes w/ the bridge. Did you get a bridge?

edit:
Quote:


> Mounting mechanism is not included since it comes with every EK-FC Bridge part.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1207&products_id=37474


----------



## Birk

oh boy, i ordered a second hand bridge but its from a well known member, I'll PM and see if they were included.


----------



## szeged

testing out a new camera, idk if i like it yet, let me know what you guys think about the quality, i still have 0 idea what im doing with it and i have a lot left to tinker around with. Working on building my own lightbox now, got some studio hot lights from a school photography class that got shut down for free lol, so now my shots can finally have proper lighting.

so, heres the first shot with it, still having trouble getting it to focus imo -



so guys, whats the early verdict? keep this cam and tinker with it? or take it back (15 day full refund no questions asked policy) and get a better one?


----------



## MetallicAcid

Hello guys!

I would like to present my ROG V Gene TJ08-E. This was my first modded build, and later was my first water cooling upgrade. I would like to give a shout out to EK Waterblocks for their great quality components which I really enjoyed using!














Thanks for looking








MetallicAcid


----------



## szeged

was testing out the new cam some more, decided to unpackage my new 780 classy block for some glamour shots, first thing i notice is a crack near the end of the plexi









well lets hope the camera managed to capture the problem





is this a problem that can be RMA'd? this is the blocks first time out of the box, EK stick unbroken etc etc. If not, the crack isnt in a spot that affects performance at all, which is the #1 thing i care about, just a shame that such a beautiful block has a flaw on it







i blame it on fedex shipping









thanks.

also, feed back on the quality of the pictures please, i feel like they still arent up to par. Im thinking ill take this camera back and try a new one.

well, off to photograph more stuff and get opinions on this camera.


----------



## wermad

Damn, what's up with all these cracked plexi lately????


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Damn, what's up with all these cracked plexi lately????


ive never had a problem with EK before, i really do blame fedex, i usually go ups or usps(who is usually worse than fedex but cheaper







)

btw wermad, any comments on the photos? does the quality seem okay? i cant decide if i like this new camera or not lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ive never had a problem with EK before, i really do blame fedex, i usually go ups or usps(who is usually worse than fedex but cheaper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> btw wermad, any comments on the photos? does the quality seem okay? i cant decide if i like this new camera or not lol.


Looks really good. A lot better then my crappy pns nikon







.

I was warned by another member to be careful not to over tighten the pom piece or the bridge or it could crack the plexi. He ended up cracking his block. Sold my 780s w/ the Titan plexi/copper blocks and the new owner also ended up cracking one of the blocks. I also heard a few other Titan block users had the same thing. In particular the center screw for the pom piece. I took it very gingerly after the warnings. Don't have that issue w/ the my Supremacy or the Lightnings pom blocks. I had some 470 plexi nickel blocks a long time ago and never once did they crack. Not sure if Ek is using a new plexi that might be weaker (cost cutting?).


----------



## szeged

only plexi ive ever had crack on me was my fault because i overtighted it









all my other titan blocks from EK have been perfect condition









depending on how well hidden this corner of the block is i might not bother with a return/replacement


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Pics look good Szeged! The crack is obviously unfortunate but plexi does have that weakness. None of my plexi blocks has ever cracked but its probably only a matter of time. I'd personally have to replace it though just because of the aesthetics...


----------



## djriful

EK-Nickel blocks or EN-Nickel plated I have, I am planning to use *Distilled Water* with *Mayhems Dye Blood Red*. I'm wondering if I should use *Dead Water* or *Silver Coil*.

Beside the past old story of nickel flake which was solved. Do *Silver Coil* pose issues on *Nickel*? Do I need any *corrosion inhibitor*?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> testing out a new camera, idk if i like it yet, let me know what you guys think about the quality, i still have 0 idea what im doing with it and i have a lot left to tinker around with. Working on building my own lightbox now, got some studio hot lights from a school photography class that got shut down for free lol, so now my shots can finally have proper lighting.
> 
> so, heres the first shot with it, still having trouble getting it to focus imo -
> 
> 
> 
> so guys, whats the early verdict? keep this cam and tinker with it? or take it back (15 day full refund no questions asked policy) and get a better one?


What camera do you have? Don't bet on the light box to be an all in one solution.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ive never had a problem with EK before, i really do blame fedex, i usually go ups or usps(who is usually worse than fedex but cheaper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> btw wermad, any comments on the photos? does the quality seem okay? i cant decide if i like this new camera or not lol.


Seems like postman hit it really hard. This is RMA-able, no questions asked. Sorry for the hiccup








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> EK-Nickel blocks or EN-Nickel plated I have, I am planning to use *Distilled Water* with *Mayhems Dye Blood Red*. I'm wondering if I should use *Dead Water* or *Silver Coil*.
> 
> Beside the past old story of nickel flake which was solved. Do *Silver Coil* pose issues on *Nickel*? Do I need any *corrosion inhibitor*?


I strongly suggest against using dead water or silver coil. Use Mayhem's X1 colored (or their Pastel range) premix if you don't want to use EK-Ekoolant line. It's couple of euros for a liter, really.


----------



## lowfat

The blocks that cover the entire PCB look 11ty better. I ditched my 780 Classified for the same reason. I was assuming the Ti block was going to be the same design as the GTX780 blocks since they are so similar.









Is the top piece of the block the same as the GTX780? If so I'd be willing to just use the top from my current block.


----------



## tiborrr12

I don't understand. The Acetal and Original CSQ Plexi (frosted) is going to be full lenght, plexi is going to be short. The full lenght translucent plexi (like the one found on EK-FC Titan SE / EK-FC Titan SE - Nickel) was an experiment and it was not too successful.

And no, you cannot reuse the top because of the screw location.


----------



## wermad

Ti is not the same pcb as 780/Titan? Couldn't you just reuse the old Titan blocks?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I don't understand. The Acetal and Original CSQ Plexi (frosted) is going to be full lenght, plexi is going to be short. The full lenght translucent plexi (like the one found on EK-FC Titan SE / EK-FC Titan SE - Nickel) was an experiment and it was not too successful.
> 
> And no, you cannot reuse the top because of the screw location.


I was assuming all the acrylic topped blocks were going to be short. But if the CSQ acrylic is full length then i am ok w/ that.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ti is not the same pcb as 780/Titan? Couldn't you just reuse the old Titan blocks?


No, it isn't, see here: http://www.ekwb.com/news/412/19/EK-FC-Titan-SE-incompatible-with-NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-780-Ti---EK-FC780-GTX-Ti-in-the-making/

In theory - yes you can but not all the MOSFETs are in contact with copper base. With EK-FC Titan SE blocks people may experience issues fitting the block past the relocated capacitor (EK-FC Titan shouldn't have this issue). This is why the new block is needed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I was assuming all the acrylic topped blocks were going to be short. But if the CSQ acrylic is full length then i am ok w/ that.


I may have said this a bit akwardly but yes, Original CSQ is going to be full lenght. It's looks mighty good. Translucent one with nothing on it - not that much









Regarding the EK-MOSFET ASUS M6G and PCIe combo card compatibility. I have snagged a photo of how it looks installed:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> No, it isn't, see here: http://www.ekwb.com/news/412/19/EK-FC-Titan-SE-incompatible-with-NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-780-Ti---EK-FC780-GTX-Ti-in-the-making/


Gotcha









Tempted to get an acetal or nickel top csq to match my Ltg







. Damn ocn ocd rub off


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Seems like postman hit it really hard. This is RMA-able, no questions asked. Sorry for the hiccup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I strongly suggest against using dead water or silver coil. Use Mayhem's X1 colored (or their Pastel range) premix if you don't want to use EK-Ekoolant line. It's couple of euros for a liter, really.


Yeah im guessing the postman just either threw it off the truck when he delivered it, or they got bored and played a game of ball with it at the office









ill rma it some time this week lol







thanks for the heads up.


----------



## snef

little mod on EK product





you need to release white acetal top for Supremacy

you have one for Ram and the HOF will be white, only my supremacy will be acrylic


----------



## lowfat

Nice to see someone else try the heatshrink over the screws and springs.


----------



## snef

yep, stolen your idea (don't remember where on this forum)

heatshrink on screw and springs and plasti-dip on thumb screw
and I like it, Great idea


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> yep, stolen your idea (don't remember where on this forum)
> 
> heatshrink on screw and springs and plasti-dip on thumb screw
> and I like it, Great idea


CPU block Thumb screw would be nice with the yellow variation.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> CPU block Thumb screw would be nice with the yellow variation.


I tried
and don't like it, we focus on thumb screw, remove plasti-dip and put only white

don't forget we will see the collant in CPU block, ram block and hard tubing,
now, I have 95% of white


----------



## Roxycon

updated my build, although not added anymore EK parts


----------



## Tillmander

My cpu block has a maple leaf on it, therefore it is superior to yours.


----------



## derickwm

Yikes, Canadians!


----------



## Snowlav

Hello EK, I read somewhere you were doing blocks for the new ASUS vi motherboard range, including the vi formula.
Is this true and if so, what can we expect for the formula ?


----------



## derickwm

Next person who asks about the M6F gets thread banned.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snowlav*
> 
> Hello EK, I read somewhere you were doing blocks for the new ASUS vi motherboard range, including the vi formula.
> Is this true and if so, what can we expect for the formula ?


lol join the waiting list.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Next person who asks about the M6F gets thread banned.


----------



## Tillmander

Don't lie you love us Canadians


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snowlav*
> 
> Hello EK, I read somewhere you were doing blocks for the new ASUS vi motherboard range, including the vi formula.
> Is this true and if so, what can we expect for the formula ?


Lowfat, this is not me


----------



## Snowlav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Next person who asks about the M6F gets thread banned.


Sorry I didn't mean to offend you, it was a sincere question.

Again, my apologies.


----------



## VSG

See what you did now, Derick


----------



## fast_fate

Build Log Photo = dust and crud over the EK stuffs


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> updated my build, although not added anymore EK parts


Parallel cpu w/ gpu(s). Brings back memories










Spoiler: Warning: Not EK products!







Didn't work out so well as it was a pita to bleed. Ened up w/ series from the parallel gpus to the cpu.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Next person who asks about the M6F gets thread banned.


When will the Maximus *VII* Formula block be released????









Thank you guys for releasing da Snipah fives block. Waiting on amazon to have in stock. Almost blew my amazon g/c on Jolly Ranchers Jelly Beans







; patiently waiting


----------



## derickwm

If you're ordering it from Amazon you'll probably be waiting for quite a while...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If you're ordering it from Amazon you'll probably be waiting for quite a while...


I need to shoot HellfireToyz an email. They usually get most of the new stuff on fleabay and list them on amazon as well. Might just get it next paycheck from the usual suspects and blow my g/c on Jolly Ranchers jelly beans







and toys for the babies. Good lordy, waiting since Easter and no Jolly Ranchers Jelly Beans in any store. Glads I founds the internets. It has em, it has em. Now i can has em







. This TH10 build has bled me dry


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Parallel cpu w/ gpu(s). Brings back memories
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't work out so well as it was a pita to bleed. Ened up w/ series from the parallel gpus to the cpu.


http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3236_zps66053544.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3239_zpseaabde83.jpg.html


----------



## coolhandluke41

^^^Parallel looks sick








P.S. @lowfat what camera are you using ?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3236_zps66053544.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3239_zpseaabde83.jpg.html


Trapped air pockets easily in the cpu block and most likely due to the difference of flow of the *four* gpu blocks. Large air pockets on a horizon mb layout, not easy to bleed. Ended up just going w/ a series run after the quad DD gpu blocks.

Beautiful work as always Low


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> P.S. @lowfat what camera are you using ?


I use a T3i w/ a 17-40 f/4 L.


----------



## tiborrr12

You can run EK-FC R9-290X and EK-Supremacy in parallel since both have almost identical hydraulic restriction curve.


----------



## Roxycon

lol, and i thought it was me and two other guys who has done all parallel









where could we find documentation on restriction from EK blocks?


----------



## Geoffrey4283

Question for EK_tiborrr:


Does the block allow parallel flow, with some of the coolant going almost directly from the CPU to the outlet (via the area highlighted by the orange box), or is there something preventing it from doing so, such that all coolant follows the path from the Inlet -> CPU -> SB -> VRM -> Outlet?

Note, I am in _no way_ asking when the block will be available for sale! Please don't ban me! *cowers*


----------



## tiborrr12

Hello Geoffrey. Yes, you have guessed it correctly - the flow gets paralleled, majority goes directly to the outlet while some of the water is diverted through SB (PCH) and MOSFETs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> where could we find documentation on restriction from EK blocks?


It's usually in the webshop or in a press release. For R9-290X you can find it here:
http://www.ekwb.com/news/407/19/EK-FC-R9-290X-for-AMD-Radeon-R9-290X-makes-it-s-debut/


----------



## wermad

I think the ban applies to MVI Formula owners







. Since Asus put an aluminum pipe on it (







), there's an urgency to address this







.


----------



## pilotter

yes would be a bummer to have ekwb products mixed with aluminium


----------



## Roxycon

now i felt stupid







well wasnt that big of a difference with the 680 blocks though..


----------



## Geoffrey4283

Thanks for the clarification on the flow pattern!

Two (potentially silly) questions on the M6I related to the daughterboards:
1. Can you confirm that the audio headers on the SupremeFX daughterboard clear the top of WB?
2. Have you checked to see if the portion over the PCH (specifically the raised bit with the ASUS engraving) allows the installation of an NGFF/M.2 SSD? Another way of asking the same question (if you, like many, didn't have an NGFF available): what's the height difference between the stock heatsink and the WB at that location?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geoffrey4283*
> 
> Thanks for the clarification on the flow pattern!
> 
> Two (potentially silly) questions on the M6I related to the daughterboards:
> 1. Can you confirm that the audio headers on the SupremeFX daughterboard clear the top of WB?
> 2. Have you checked to see if the portion over the PCH (specifically the raised bit with the ASUS engraving) allows the installation of an NGFF/M.2 SSD? Another way of asking the same question (if you, like many, didn't have an NGFF available): what's the height difference between the stock heatsink and the WB at that location?


1. Yes, there's a groove for it.
2. Yes, M2 SSD should fit. Stock heatsink and water block are about the same height.


----------



## Geoffrey4283

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> 1. Yes, there's a groove for it.
> 2. Yes, M2 SSD should fit. Stock heatsink and water block are about the same height.


At the risk of being perceived as a nitpicking a-hole...

I see the groove in the base that allows the installation of the SupremeFX daughterboard. To clarify, I was asking about the audio headers which support things like front-panel jacks, at the top left of the daughterboard in this picture:


I didn't see any grooves around the top of the block, so just wanted to make sure those are fully above the height of the waterblock, (therefore having enough space to make the connection).


----------



## tiborrr12

I see, will test on monday. There should be *just* enough space to fit it.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geoffrey4283*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> 1. Yes, there's a groove for it.
> 2. Yes, M2 SSD should fit. Stock heatsink and water block are about the same height.
> 
> 
> 
> At the risk of being perceived as a nitpicking a-hole...
> 
> I see the groove in the base that allows the installation of the SupremeFX daughterboard. To clarify, I was asking about the audio headers which support things like front-panel jacks, at the top left of the daughterboard in this picture:
> 
> 
> I didn't see any grooves around the top of the block, so just wanted to make sure those are fully above the height of the waterblock, (therefore having enough space to make the connection).
Click to expand...

there is a ledge (bottom of the block is thicker ),the headers should clear np (I hope )
http://s774.photobucket.com/user/coolhand_SS/media/6i_zpsd8a650eb.jpg.html


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Next person who asks about the M6F gets thread banned.


I was about to ask, but then Tiborrr hit the submit button.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Really? And then you will moan about how EK dual ddc heatsink housing doesnt fit your swiftech dual top, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, M6I this Thursday or Friday, M6F next Monday, maybe even this Friday.


When do you think it hits Norway?







Great work! Any pictures of it in Acetal?


----------



## szeged

was testing out a new camera to compare to that other i posted some shots with, messing around with settings not knowing what the hell im doing (as usual), went to take a shot of the ek supremacy block

ended up with these results




anyone know if there is an "LSD" setting on the fujifilm finepix s8200?


----------



## Drifbau5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> was testing out a new camera to compare to that other i posted some shots with, messing around with settings not knowing what the hell im doing (as usual), went to take a shot of the ek supremacy block
> 
> ended up with these results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyone know if there is an "LSD" setting on the fujifilm finepix s8200?


haha looks like you had set it to a long shutter speed time. Wheres the green led light coming from.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> haha looks like you had set it to a long shutter speed time. Wheres the green led light coming from.


thats what confuses me, i made sure to set it to a short shutter time because i wasnt using a tripod or anything just holdin it myself.

as for the green light, my best guess is its from the stock cooler on this 780ti im benching....on air because EK wont give me new toys to play with


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

"GEFORCE GTX" is where I'm guessing the green is coming from.







And that is definitely a mixture of too long an exposure with too little light and too much motion...


----------



## Drifbau5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> thats what confuses me, i made sure to set it to a short shutter time because i wasnt using a tripod or anything just holdin it myself.
> 
> as for the green light, my best guess is its from the stock cooler on this 780ti im benching....on air because EK wont give me new toys to play with


If its on auto and your in low light or no flash. It will automatically set a long shutter speed to let more light in. At least thats how mine works haha.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> If its on auto and your in low light or no flash. It will automatically set a long shutter speed to let more light in. At least thats how mine works haha.


hmm that might be it, i have some studio lights i could use, i was just doing room light when taking those pics, which probably resulted in the shutter speed deciding to go crazy on me







i dont think it was on auto though, hmm, weird. ill try again with better light on that area.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

If you want to take serious, lighted shots you need a tripod. Period.


----------



## szeged

okay lets try that again with different lighting




still not the best, getting some glare on them and what not, but thats because i was holding a camera in one hand, holding the light in the other hand, and kicking one of my cats trying to jump up on my desk at the same time


----------



## derickwm

Less flash, more tripod


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Less flash, more tripod


no flash used, was just my awkward attempt at holding a light, a camera and shooing a cat away while taking pics









im gonna have to go out and buy a tripod, i tried to fab one with some aluminum and some welding but i ran out of argon mid TIG session and ended up melting my tungsten









i could also "attempt" to borrow one from my GF's mom, but shes the kind of person who flipped out on her son when he lost a $7 flashlight from walmart that she bought


----------



## derickwm

Oh, guess reading would've told me that.

Gorillapods are nice for starting up/learning. Cheap too.


----------



## szeged

ill check it out thanks









spoke to frozencpu reps earlier, they said they will ship me a new plexi top for that chipped 780 classy block


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Oh, guess reading would've told me that.
> 
> Gorillapods are nice for starting up/learning. Cheap too.


Damn they make ones that can hold an SLR w/ heavy lens. Those kind of tripods were cheap crap when I first looked at them. Although that was probably 7-8 years ago. Think I may need to purchase one. I hate using a full sized tripod all the time.


----------



## fast_fate

I'm experimenting with photography as well.
I kinda like this one - outdoor shot so with natural lighting


Spoiler: Pic Info


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I'm experimenting with photography as well.
> I kinda like this one - outdoor shot so with natural lighting
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pic Info


looks good









id take some outdoor shots but its been overcast and raining all week, also the 900D fully loaded weighs a ton, not worth taking it downstairs every time i wanna take a shot


----------



## VSG

How do you guys even carry a watercooled 900D at all? I am still just putting in components in and it weighs a ton already!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How do you guys even carry a watercooled 900D at all? I am still just putting in components in and it weighs a ton already!


very...very carefully.


----------



## VSG

I wish I was like Derick and post a "Captain Obvious" gif









Anyway I am actually contemplating a handle on the top towards the back.


----------



## altsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How do you guys even carry a watercooled 900D at all? I am still just putting in components in and it weighs a ton already!


You don't carry it. You hire a forklift every time you have to move it









My 900D build is effectively an anti-theft build. You can't steal it if you can't even move it


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *altsanity*
> 
> You don't carry it. You hire a forklift every time you have to move it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 900D build is effectively an anti-theft build. You can't steal it if you can't even move it


We just moved to a new place and I had to have a buddy help me he said I can get it myself I said ok needless to say he couldn't loaded with watercoolinggear its at least 100 pounds


----------



## mflexx

Can I joint this club? Got some EK blocks in my build.


----------



## pilotter

installed this weekend, EKWB instruction are really easy







awaiting to be joined with MF6


----------



## szeged

the acetal/nickle classy block looks....classy

If i had the Acetal supremacy block id grab one for sure.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> When do you think it hits Norway?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great work! *Any pictures of it in Acetal?*


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Damn they make ones that can hold an SLR w/ heavy lens. Those kind of tripods were cheap crap when I first looked at them. Although that was probably 7-8 years ago. Think I may need to purchase one. I hate using a full sized tripod all the time.


Got one myself at the beginning of the summer and it kicks ass for close up shots that trying to shove a traditional tripod at would amount to rape charges.







(Shooting with the same camera as you btw)

Great stuff coming up with that EK-DDC Heatsink Housing guys! Now just tell me it can house a 35X...


----------



## szeged

just got one of those gorillapods







maybe i can actually get a good picture for once


----------



## aRkangeLPT




----------



## flix29




----------



## DaTraS

I would like to join the club too









EK Only












Intel Core i7-4770K @ 4,4GHz

ASUS Maximus VI Hero

ASUS GeForce GTX TITAN @ 1050 MHz (I think...) x2

Team Group Vulcan Series Red, DDR3-2400, CL10 - 16 GB Kit

Seasonic X-850 Gold

ASUS Xonar Essence PCIe

Samsung SSD 840 Pro 256GB

... Only piece missing is the EK M6G block for my ASUS MVIH









~ DaTraS


----------



## Pupo




----------



## Wrizlee

I'm joining too!

My simple EK cooled HAF X!


----------



## omegasama

My stuffs from EK. GPU's and MoBo / Ram will come later ..





Regards


----------



## Roboionator

Helooo
I would like to join the club


----------



## SpexWave

Parts from EK:
EKWB Coolstream 480mm
EKWB Coolstream 360mm
EK-RES X3 250
EK-FC680 GTX Backplate - Black CSQ x2
EK-FC680 GTX FTW - Acetal x2
EK 1/2 3/4 fittings
EK CPU-vannblokk, EK-Supremacy - Acetal + Nickel


----------



## tiborrr12

Very nice builds!, keep 'em coming!


----------



## VSG

So according to EK's Facebook page, one of us with pictures of their watercooled PC will randomly win Arkham Origins. Does it have to be a completed build?


----------



## midnytwarrior

I hope my rig qualifies





EK Parts:
EK-FB Max4 Extreme Motherboard block
EK Dual-D5 Top CSQ
EK PSC adapter 90 degree black nickel fittings x 6
EK PSC adapter 90 degree black fitting x 3
EK PSC adapter 45 degree black nickel fittings x 2
EK FC470 GTX Backplate black


----------



## Johnny Blade

.


----------



## PC Mods

Hi Everyone,

I'm "brand new" here, just signed up today(after seeing the facebook post from EK), and I would like to join this post with my watercooled rig







This is not a High End computer but I tried my best to put it together and not to spend too much...

Specs:
AMD FX 6300 (3.5GHz, 3.9 Turbo) 6 Core CPU
Gigabyte 78LMT-USB3
8GB 1333MHz Memory
MSI GTX 650Ti OC 2GB GPU
1TB Seagate HDD
650W Modular PSU

Watercooling components:
EK-Supreme LTX AMD CSQ - CPU Block
EK Water Blocks EK-FC660 GTX - Nickel - GPU block
EK 2.2 pump
EK Coolant Blood Red
Alphacool 250mm Res
Alphacool 13/10 Compression fittings
Coolgate Double HD240
Red LEDs
Red 120mm Fans

Some pictures:







Thank you for choosing me as the winner!!!


----------



## szeged

Welcome to OCN

it looks good


----------



## Drifbau5

Am I automatically in this giveaway since I posted before? Well I guess its a good time to post my updates it this forum. So I got an EK block for my 770 and also a new 120 rad.

Im in the batman giveaway:





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ragsters

What TIM should I use on my EK MV5 motherboard block? I have MX-3 and the gelid stuff that came with my new supremacy block. I bought the motherboard block off of our marketplace and it didnt come with TIM.


----------



## defiler2k

So I just went through the process of rebuilding my loop with acrilic and with a new pump combo. However, for some reason my EK-D5 X-RES pump top res combo leaks on the loop return (the recessed port). I have installed my rotary fitting using the included EK-Extender finger tightened however I have a slow leak at that connection even with the system off.

I'm about to take some pliers and try to tighten the extender even further however I'm afraid that I might ruin the finish on the extender and or damage the threads on the reservoir. Here is that portion of my setup.


----------



## lowfat

Thought I'd clean my LTX today while I was swapping CPUs. Noticed this upon opening.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-34-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-33-1.jpg.html


----------



## Aeleus

Haven't gotten a chance to take some good shots of it yet, but I wanted to show mine off


----------



## Ragsters

Please help me EK. Im in the process of installing the MV5 motherboard block and per the instructions Im not supposed to put a thermal pad on the top right chip. Is that right? Why would I have to cut the thermal pad just to avoid this chip?



From instructions:


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Thought I'd clean my LTX today while I was swapping CPUs. Noticed this upon opening.


Uh oh. Open up a ticket, we'll get it taken care of. Odd spot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Please help me EK. Im in the process of installing the MV5 motherboard block and per the instructions Im not supposed to put a thermal pad on the top right chip. Is that right? Why would I have to cut the thermal pad just to avoid this chip?
> 
> 
> 
> From instructions:


Each instruction booklet is handmade for perfect fittibg. I'm sure tiborrr can confirm as he's probably the one who made it but if it says it doesn't need a thermal pad, it probably doesn't.


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aeleus*
> 
> Haven't gotten a chance to take some good shots of it yet, but I wanted to show mine off


smexy, specially the board and colors.


----------



## Ragsters

Another question. I am currently installing the EK supremacy block. Should I be worried about the solder pieces that stick out of back of the board? I am afraid when I install the block those little solder pieces will get pushed in.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Another question. I am currently installing the EK supremacy block. Should I be worried about the solder pieces that stick out of back of the board? I am afraid when I install the block those little solder pieces will get pushed in.


i dont think the backplate should even hit any of them :x


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i dont think the backplate should even hit any of them :x


Just realized that the plate does not its only the rubber gasket that does


----------



## szeged

well then youre good to go


----------



## Elanorth

my project is under construction


----------



## siffonen

Here is my EK-cooled rig.


----------



## szeged

grats PC mods!


----------



## pilotter

congrats to PC mods


----------



## HG02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> So I just went through the process of rebuilding my loop with acrilic and with a new pump combo. However, for some reason my EK-D5 X-RES pump top res combo leaks on the loop return (the recessed port). I have installed my rotary fitting using the included EK-Extender finger tightened however I have a slow leak at that connection even with the system off.
> 
> I'm about to take some pliers and try to tighten the extender even further however I'm afraid that I might ruin the finish on the extender and or damage the threads on the reservoir. Here is that portion of my setup.


Maybe replace the O ring might help it may be slightly damaged


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HG02*
> 
> Maybe replace the O ring might help it may be slightly damaged


I had tried that and still same issue


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Please help me EK. Im in the process of installing the MV5 motherboard block and per the instructions Im not supposed to put a thermal pad on the top right chip. Is that right? Why would I have to cut the thermal pad just to avoid this chip?
> 
> 
> 
> From instructions:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Each instruction booklet is handmade for perfect fittibg. I'm sure tiborrr can confirm as he's probably the one who made it but if it says it doesn't need a thermal pad, it probably doesn't.


Can you confirm this tiborrr?


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Will there be a block coming for the new Asus Mars 3 dual 760 card?


----------



## szeged

buy two 670 blocks and glue them together.


----------



## derickwm

I'll inquire about it but it's not likely unless we get bored


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'll inquire about it but it's not likely unless we get bored


----------



## szeged

any plans for an evga x79 dark board block? or evga z87 classified block? Jk the z87 classified has been "releasing" for the past 5 months according to evga reps







i wonder if theyre waiting for z87 to be a dead chipset before they release it.


----------



## derickwm

Yeahhh I wouldn't hold your breath for those...

The Z87 Classified was talked about... But like you said we haven't seen it released yet soooo


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yeahhh I wouldn't hold your breath for those...
> 
> The Z87 Classified was talked about... But like you said we haven't seen it released yet soooo


yeah i didnt think so







just wishful thinking lol.

i wanted to do an all "classified" z87 build, 2 780 classys, 1500w classy psu, classy z87 board...ended up with another asus board because the z87 classy just fell off the face of the earth.


----------



## VSG

Too bad though, I was looking forward to a z87 classified. Those 90 degree connectors were so good looking.


----------



## szeged

yeah i may still grab one and do the classified build, but that would only be if it releases when z87 is still relevant


----------



## VSG

Hopefully Jacob is reading this and pushes EVGA to have a consistent Stinger, FTW and Classified MoBo line for each chipset.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah i may still grab one and do the classified build, but that would only be if it releases when z87 is still relevant


You're hard to keep track of


----------



## szeged

haha


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Thought I'd clean my LTX today while I was swapping CPUs. Noticed this upon opening.


*snip is this with the new plating or this is the old one ?


----------



## derickwm

And this is coming from me...


----------



## Ovrclck

Asus Maximus VI Hero with EK-MOSFET ASUS M65G and Supreme HF. The lighting isn't the greatest.


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> And this is coming from me...


?


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Please help me EK. Im in the process of installing the MV5 motherboard block and per the instructions Im not supposed to put a thermal pad on the top right chip. Is that right? Why would I have to cut the thermal pad just to avoid this chip?
> 
> 
> 
> From instructions:


Ragsters, I checked the height difference between the them and its negligible. I have the same Mobo and put the 0.5mm thermal pad on that far right chip as well as all the mosfets (why not). Shouldn't be an issue, my setup is running great.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skruffs01*
> 
> Ragsters, I checked the height difference between the them and its negligible. I have the same Mobo and put time and the thermal pad on that far right chip as well. Shouldnt be an issue, my setup is running great.


I followed the directions and omitted the pad on the far right chip. Im starting to feel like I should of put the pad like you did. Please respond Tiborrr.


----------



## skruffs01

I am sure it doesn't matter one way or the other. The reason I put it on was that I noticed the stock fusion block had its thermal pad on it, so I figured why not. Hopefully Tiborr has some more insight.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> *snip is this with the new plating or this is the old one ?


New but they have already offered to RMA so I'm good. Just way too lazy to take the rig apart again.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> *snip is this with the new plating or this is the old one ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New but they have already offered to RMA so I'm good. Just way too lazy to take the rig apart again.
Click to expand...

I know you don't run pure H20 +silver or Nuke so I'm little worry about my next purchase
P.S. BTW I bought T3i,Thanks


----------



## RAmable

EK 290X Acetal full block and backplate
EK 360XT and 240PE Radiators


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> I know you don't run pure H20 +silver or Nuke so I'm little worry about my next purchase
> P.S. BTW I bought T3i,Thanks


I wouldn't worry about it. My Supreme HFs and all my other blocks have been good.

If you like macroing consider buying a $3 reverse lens mount from eBay. You can take some crazy pics. Like this.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-39.jpg.html

Or this, which is a full zoom on the same EK badge as above.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-6-9.jpg.html

Backplate on my GTX780.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I followed the directions and omitted the pad on the far right chip. Im starting to feel like I should of put the pad like you did. Please respond Tiborrr.


No pad needed because that's just the controller. It doesn't heat up at all. It's job is to feed the VRM drivers with the signaling.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> No pad needed because that's just the controller. It doesn't heat up at all. It's job is to feed the VRM drivers with the signaling.


Thank you so much for responding! I was going to pull everything apart and redo. I wonder if me putting thermal paste on the chip was a bad idea. I dont even think it is touching the block.


----------



## tiborrr12

It's surely touching it, do not worry.


----------



## yimmykpekk

EK-Multioption RES X2 - TUBE 60/200mm
EK-Multioption RES X2 - T16x12 120mm Cyclone
EK-PSC Fittings 10mm - G1/4 E-Nickel
EK-PSC Adapters 90° G1/4 Nickel
EK-CSQ Adapters 45° G1/4 Nickel
EK-PLUGS G1/4
EK-DCP 4.0 high performance water pump
EK-Supremacy - CPU Block
EK-FC680 GTX DCII - Acetal+Nickel - GPU Block
EK-RAM Dominator - Acetal+EN (Nickel) - RAM Block
EK-FB ASUS Maximus III Formula - Acetal+Nickel - MB Block
EK-CoolStream RAD XT (120)
EK-CoolStream RAD XTX 360
EK-Ekoolant UV BLUE


----------



## tSgt

@EK_tiborrr

Any plans on Quadro K6000 blocks ?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> It's surely touching it, do not worry.


Just to be clear, and I am sorry for being such a pain, you think the block is touching the controller chip (far right chip) even without the thermal pad?


----------



## derickwm

@tsgt any plans to buy a quadro K6000?


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> @tsgt any plans to buy a quadro K6000?


Its in my mind yeah, that's why I ask if there is any plan on a waterblock


----------



## szeged

woooooo

i was actually looking at the cracked top earlier, noticed one of the standoffs were crooked near the crack, i barely touched it and the cracked piece went flying across the room :x, got it glued back on now so i dont lose it lol.

also...wth almost 18000 in my inbox...might be a time for a cleaning.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Its in my mind yeah, that's why I ask if there is any plan on a waterblock


Yes, it requires some minor mods to the top of our EK-FCTK20 block. So it will be done.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Just to be clear, and I am sorry for being such a pain, you think the block is touching the controller chip (far right chip) even without the thermal pad?


Oh sorry, I misunderstood you. I thought you were thinking about PLX PEX8487 chip, not the voltage controller. Just follow the installation manual and everything will as it should.


----------



## pilotter

Tiborr, any change you are going to sell the MF6 today, saves me probably a lot of times loging in.


----------



## tiborrr12

Monday, bro.


----------



## pilotter

thanks!


----------



## MrT0ad

Hey Tiborrr, does that "Monday" ETA apply to the M6I too?


----------



## Geoffrey4283

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I see, will test on monday. There should be *just* enough space to fit it.


Had any time to check on this yet?


----------



## tiborrr12

Sorry, totally forgot. Will check tomorrow.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Im so mad right now!







punctured my new 360 rad!

what is EK's policy on returning a punctured Rad? just a thought but why don't you guys just make screws that cant let this happen?

the thing that's really annoying me is the screws with this new rad are different than the old one's, my old one is fine & the other 240 I have is fine?

im really starting to hate EK tbh, all ive had from your products is trouble?

EK supreme HF plexi CPU block - micro cracking & cant get a replacement top anymore?

EK multi res - cracked

EK DCP 4.0 pump - died after a few months

& now this?

I mean you do make some really good products like your GPU blocks, I have never had a problem with?

ive just ordered another one but does anyone know if there is a way to repair this punctured one?


----------



## tSgt

Hating/Blaming a company for user mistakes....

Also EK is providing screws long enough for everyone, because yes, actually not everyone use 25mm fans. So yeah, be careful with what you're doing. The only thing i could say to EK, is to make the small protective plate on their radiators like Alphacool NexXxos ones.

Plexi is a delicate material, if you overtighten your fittings/screws with them, it's common that the plexi cracks. Its even logical...

For the pump, can't say, I have 2 of these in a build and still rocking the loop since 1years+

Also if I'm right, you can't RMA punctured rads, there is a small paper in the EK radiators packaging.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Im so mad right now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> punctured my new 360 rad!
> 
> what is EK's policy on returning a punctured Rad? just a thought but why don't you guys just make screws that cant let this happen?
> 
> the thing that's really annoying me is the screws with this new rad are different than the old one's, my old one is fine & the other 240 I have is fine?
> 
> im really starting to hate EK tbh, all ive had from your products is trouble?
> 
> EK supreme HF plexi CPU block - micro cracking & cant get a replacement top anymore?
> 
> EK multi res - cracked
> 
> EK DCP 4.0 pump - died after a few months
> 
> & now this?
> 
> I mean you do make some really good products like your GPU blocks, I have never had a problem with?
> 
> ive just ordered another one but does anyone know if there is a way to repair this punctured one?


Plexi isn't metal, it's fragile and you have to treat it as so. If your pump died unexpectedly and you were the original purchaser then you can open an RMA ticket. This does not guarantee RMA as we do inspect items upon receiving them.

Unfortunately punctured rads are not RMA'able, http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109860014.pdf. Water cooling isn't a walk in the park, you must watch and pay close attention to every detail. Water cooling is also not 100% standardized and as tSgt said many people use different sized [everything].

Apologies for the difficulties you've been having.


----------



## Razarach

I have one question.
Does EK has blocks for Asus M5A99FX pro?


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Hating/Blaming a company for user mistakes....
> 
> Also EK is providing screws long enough for everyone, because yes, actually not everyone use 25mm fans. So yeah, be careful with what you're doing. The only thing i could say to EK, is to make the small protective plate on their radiators like Alphacool NexXxos ones.
> 
> Plexi is a delicate material, if you overtighten your fittings/screws with them, it's common that the plexi cracks. Its even logical...
> 
> For the pump, can't say, I have 2 of these in a build and still rocking the loop since 1years+
> 
> Also if I'm right, you can't RMA punctured rads, there is a small paper in the EK radiators packaging.


yeah it is my mistake tbh, but I have to say that they should design the rad & label there screws better?

also about plexi, I have some EK mobo plexi blocks that have never cracked & were tightened with the same amount as the cpu block?

im just saying half of the EK products I have bought have broken, the other half are fine though?

guess I will just use them for GPU blocks in the future & maybe CPU blocks without any plexi.

Ive ordered another rad anyway, as I guessed you couldn't rma them for punctures?

im just fuming tbh


----------



## HG02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Im so mad right now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> punctured my new 360 rad!
> 
> what is EK's policy on returning a punctured Rad? just a thought but why don't you guys just make screws that cant let this happen?
> 
> the thing that's really annoying me is the screws with this new rad are different than the old one's, my old one is fine & the other 240 I have is fine?
> 
> im really starting to hate EK tbh, all ive had from your products is trouble?
> 
> EK supreme HF plexi CPU block - micro cracking & cant get a replacement top anymore?
> 
> EK multi res - cracked
> 
> EK DCP 4.0 pump - died after a few months
> 
> & now this?
> 
> I mean you do make some really good products like your GPU blocks, I have never had a problem with?
> 
> ive just ordered another one but does anyone know if there is a way to repair this punctured one?


Perhaps a car radiator repair shop might be able to repair the hole it would depend on if the radiator frame can be de solded ( the rad frame may have been spot welded so it wont be able to take the frame off ) But if they can desolder the frame it would not be a problem after all there the same thing same material


----------



## King4x4

Best thing to fix a rad... not aesthatic but it's damn good even for outdoor applications:


You can mix a bit of string inside the loop for a stronger bond.


----------



## kpoeticg

The little "Step" after the threads is a nice touch in a rad, but it's definitely a bonus feature. Can't really blame the company for over-screwing. Every rad sold pretty much has a warning not to do that.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Best thing to fix a rad... not aesthatic but it's damn good even for outdoor applications:
> 
> 
> You can mix a bit of string inside the loop for a stronger bond.


yeah that is what I was thinking of some sort of liquid metal or epoxy?

it doesn't really matter though as ive order another one.









I might try that epoxy to fix it & use it another build @ some point?

the hole is closest to the fillport on top, so you will never see it if I gunk a load in there

ive actually used some stuff before called metal bond, when I cracked the crank casing on my dirt bike. was like a inch wide hole aswell?
it worked on that so I don't see why it wouldn't work on a radiator.

@ everyone saying your not meant to overtighten, plexi is fragile etc, I know all of this already?

Im just pointing out that they could improve there designs a bit better & stop this from ever happening in the first place?

I mean putting a channel right over a screw hole isn't the best design is it? then again it probably was designed that way for a reason lol! more sales?

Im not exactly saying EK makes all shoddy products either, just that half them I have had have been bad?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Im so mad right now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> punctured my new 360 rad!
> 
> what is EK's policy on returning a punctured Rad? just a thought but why don't you guys just make screws that cant let this happen?
> 
> the thing that's really annoying me is the screws with this new rad are different than the old one's, my old one is fine & the other 240 I have is fine?
> 
> im really starting to hate EK tbh, all ive had from your products is trouble?
> 
> EK supreme HF plexi CPU block - micro cracking & cant get a replacement top anymore?
> 
> EK multi res - cracked
> 
> EK DCP 4.0 pump - died after a few months
> 
> & now this?
> 
> I mean you do make some really good products like your GPU blocks, I have never had a problem with?
> 
> ive just ordered another one but does anyone know if there is a way to repair this punctured one?


So sorry to hear this but let me help you out:

Punctured rad = no RMA. Where did you buy the rad and how old is it? For the last 2 years or so our rads come with single lenght screws only. It's impossible to overtighten the rad while using standard 120x120x25mm fan. Try to fix it, it's quite easy, I have done it several times. You'll need an powerful heatgun, some crimps to bend the metal frame above the pierced spot in order to gain access. Use acetone or paint thinner to clear off paint, clean it with some flux and soft solder it with electronics solder.

EK Supreme HF plexi top - we have some coloured items left:

EK multi res - cracked: how old? Still under warranty? We can replace it with the new RES X3 unit if the later.

EK-DCP 4.0 pump. How old? Still under warranty? Will replace it in no time if the later.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Im not exactly saying EK makes all shoddy products either, just that half them I have had have been bad?


That is unfortunate, but their products are pretty top-notch. Just learn from your mistakes and be sure to handle everything like it's made out of precious glass. I've only been watercooling for about 1.5 years, but I've never gotten any of your problems and half of all the WCing stuff I've used has been bought used.


----------



## korruptedkaos

yes I understand that there is no RMA for punctured rads. its brand new bought if a few weeks ago?

the reason im so mad is the screws that came with it are different than the last set of screws I had with exactly the same rad that I have on another build?

as for the EK res I threw it away some time ago, it would be over 2 years ago probably?

the plexi tops only come in colours, that's the problem? none are the colour I need!

as for the pump its probably over 12 months now, but broke after only a few months of use?

im sorry but im just mad with the damn radiator situation!

im just pointing out that maybe they could come up with some better designs to stop this from ever happening?

90% of all my watercooling parts are from EK so I don't hate them tbh

I wont be buying any more radiators,pumps from them though or anything plexi?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razarach*
> 
> Only southbridge :/


If you want a full cover block best bet to stick w/ high end Asus Intel boards.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If you want a full cover block best bet to stick w/ high end Asus Intel boards.


Particularly ROG Boards. Most popular boards = Most motivation to fab a block for it


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Particularly ROG Boards. Most popular boards = Most motivation to fab a block for it


The problem w/ Asus they are either gold or red unless you want to spend $500. I am unwilling to build w/ either colour.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The problem w/ Asus they are either gold or red unless you want to spend $500. I am unwilling to build w/ either colour.


+1 to this. I've been working on an ASUS rig for a while and I'm just so tired of RED. Need waterblocks for the z87oc formula so I can go yellow!


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> yes I understand that there is no RMA for punctured rads. its brand new bought if a few weeks ago?
> 
> the reason im so mad is the screws that came with it are different than the last set of screws I had with exactly the same rad that I have on another build?
> 
> as for the EK res I threw it away some time ago, it would be over 2 years ago probably?
> 
> the plexi tops only come in colours, that's the problem? none are the colour I need!
> 
> as for the pump its probably over 12 months now, but broke after only a few months of use?
> 
> im sorry but im just mad with the damn radiator situation!
> 
> im just pointing out that maybe they could come up with some better designs to stop this from ever happening?
> 
> 90% of all my watercooling parts are from EK so I don't hate them tbh
> 
> I wont be buying any more radiators,pumps from them though or anything plexi?


The screws should be exactly the same as the ones you have received earlier. We haven't changed screws at all.

Sorry for the EK RES, can't help you out much on this now can I









About the DCP 4.0 pump - don't know the exactly from the top of my head whether the pump comes with 12- or 24-month standard warranty. I'll check tomorrow.

About the EK-Supreme HF and it's top - sorry but this product is EOL for about one and a half year ago. Plexi is a solid material but one must always note that it is brittle. It's not as elastic as Acetal.

I can send you some a used plexi top and reservoirs (not mint condition) if you're willing to pay for shipping.


----------



## korruptedkaos

screws are definitely different



the one on the left is what came with the new rad & there was 12 of those & 12 little very short ones?

the one on the right I pulled out of my older radiator & that one came with 2 different lengths of long screws!

this is why im so mad about it?


----------



## MiiX

I do not own any EK rad, but im prretty sure EK allways uses fully threaded screws for radiators, atleast the ones I have seen. I belive you or the vendor mixed the screws









Still blows to kill a radiator like that


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I do not own any EK rad, but im prretty sure EK allways uses fully threaded screws for radiators, atleast the ones I have seen. I belive you or the vendor mixed the screws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still blows to kill a radiator like that


yep I will see about the screws when the next one comes on Friday?

the screws on the left are definitely what came with the new radiator, I noticed they were different when I first looked at them?

all my radiators are from EK & all of the screws are fully threaded? you have always had two sets aswell in the past?
normal length & longer one's?, ive always used the normal length ones!

If it turns out these screws are oddjobs, then I will be returning it for sure!


----------



## tiborrr12

We have shipped two different lenghts for XT radiators up until about a year ago. XTX came with shorter screws only. If you received two sets of screws then the rad must have been from the older stock. Nevertheless the warning stands.


----------



## Geoffrey4283

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Sorry, totally forgot. Will check tomorrow.


Any luck? (Trying to balance between nagging, and reminding you before you leave work; probably failing)


----------



## tiborrr12

Yes, I have totally forgot again, sorry man. But, on the more serious side, I won't be able to forget about it next week when we take the photos


----------



## matada

The link to sign up is broken. says not found.

I have an EK L360 kit + a DC II blockDC II block


----------



## tiborrr12

I don't know about the club join lik really.

Your system looks good but the card looks really sagged







Shouldn't look like this but maybe it's just an optical illusion. Can you show photo from the side?


----------



## matada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I don't know about the club join lik really.
> 
> Your system looks good but the card looks really sagged
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shouldn't look like this but maybe it's just an optical illusion. Can you show photo from the side?


It is sagged. According to the ROG forums it's happened before. I actually exchanged this GPU 3 times. all 3 sagged out of the box.


----------



## Geoffrey4283

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Yes, I have totally forgot again, sorry man. But, on the more serious side, I won't be able to forget about it next week when we take the photos


Sounds like a not-so-subtle indication that it won't be out today or tomorrow (per the post's from last week and earlier this week). Any updated ETA on when you expect stock?


----------



## szeged

will it work with the hero as well as the gene? like the mosfet block? Or are you releasing one specifically for the hero?


----------



## VSG

Well that settled it for me, by the time the US resellers get the M6F block it would be very likely mid-December. No MoBo cooling for me this time around


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matada*
> 
> It is sagged. According to the ROG forums it's happened before. I actually exchanged this GPU 3 times. all 3 sagged out of the box.


Please check whether the block top doesnt hit the DVI output screws. We've had a case of one block bending the card because they have hit the hex DVI screws portruding from the DVI itself due to tight tolerance of a this 'full' full cover block.


----------



## Roxycon

Wouldnt it be possible to fit two cards if you just flipped the block/block top up side down and accomodate fittings in between the cards?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Wouldnt it be possible to fit two cards if you just flipped the block/block top up side down and accomodate fittings in between the cards?


The mounting holes are not symmetrical at all therefore the block would hit the PCIe slots.


----------



## matada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Please check whether the block top doesnt hit the DVI output screws. We've had a case of one block bending the card because they have hit the hex DVI screws portruding from the DVI itself due to tight tolerance of a this 'full' full cover block.


the card was bent with the OEM heatsink on it. I think it's just how it is.


----------



## hoodrich

any ETA on the 780 ti nickel csq blocks? last thing holding me back from completing build


----------



## szeged

its finally arrived, grabbed one asap, http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=152-HW-E878-KR

K well heres the plan, i send you my mobo, you work with it to make blocks, i buy the blocks, ty ek


----------



## Anoxy

Hm, so my EK FC Titan SE blocks only come with two plugs. Does that mean I need to order two more for SLI with the EK FC Terminal bridge?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> its finally arrived, grabbed one asap, http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=152-HW-E878-KR
> 
> K well heres the plan, i send you my mobo, you work with it to make blocks, i buy the blocks, ty ek


Lol, that looks like a nice board but if/when I get my hands on a 4770K to replace my aging P67 folding rig I'll be sticking it in this bad boy:



Best looking board I ever saw!


----------



## pilotter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoffrey4283

Sounds like a not-so-subtle indication that it won't be out today or tomorrow (per the post's from last week and earlier this week). Any updated ETA on when you expect stock?
No, delayed a bit for a couple of days. It's manufactured but not assembled yet. Intense amount of work on assembling the 780 GTX Ti blocks which will be out on Monday.

We have released a SB block for M6F/M6G though today, this was also long overdue. I have snagged a photo:

Some sacrifices had to be done so on M6G the second PCIe slot cannot house a full-lenght PCIe expansion card. M6H doesn't have this incompatibility.

M6I early next week, M6F by the end of the week if you won't hammer us too much with the orders

See something has changed on the ekwb for the MF6, so we will be closely monitoring


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Lol, that looks like a nice board but if/when I get my hands on a 4770K to replace my aging P67 folding rig I'll be sticking it in this bad boy:
> 
> 
> 
> Best looking board I ever saw!


it is! made some quick pics, awaiting mf6 block hopefully coming these days


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Lol, that looks like a nice board but if/when I get my hands on a 4770K to replace my aging P67 folding rig I'll be sticking it in this bad boy:
> 
> 
> 
> Best looking board I ever saw!


i personally hate the plastic shroud, makes it look cheesy imo, but i can see why most people like it.

i like the idea of the integrated waterblock...IF IT WAS NOT ALUMINUM. ASUS....STOP THE ALUMINUM BLOCKS IFDSUJKFKJDSFKJSDKJFSD


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

The shroud is AMAZING! Of course I've been a total shroud fanboy since I first saw and purchased my old P67 Sabertooth years ago. The MVIF is just the best implementation of it so far as well as being a pretty badass little Z87 board!

By the way Pilotter, that build looks amazing! Nice freaking work dude! What tubing is that?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Lol, that looks like a nice board but if/when I get my hands on a 4770K to replace my aging P67 folding rig I'll be sticking it in this bad boy:
> 
> Best looking board I ever saw!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i personally hate the plastic shroud, makes it look cheesy imo, but i can see why most people like it.
> 
> i like the idea of the integrated waterblock...IF IT WAS NOT ALUMINUM. ASUS....STOP THE ALUMINUM BLOCKS IFDSUJKFKJDSFKJSDKJFSD
Click to expand...

We're not complaining about them making it aluminum


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We're not complaining about them making it aluminum


lol







im glad for people getting the formula board, can have the cool looks and a copper channel from EK


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> The shroud is AMAZING! Of course I've been a total shroud fanboy since I first saw and purchased my old P67 Sabertooth years ago. The MVIF is just the best implementation of it so far as well as being a pretty badass little Z87 board!
> 
> By the way Pilotter, that build looks amazing! Nice freaking work dude! What tubing is that?


ssssst, E22 tubing, but when I bought it EKWB had no hard tubing.....this build is almost 1 year in progress but nearing it's end. Used the EKWB naked mount for the Supremacy.


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We're not complaining about them making it aluminum


If I would have know before I bought it, I would have taken the Hero or Extreme....

I see it's almost there http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist ..... just slap the price on / make it available


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matada*
> 
> the card was bent with the OEM heatsink on it. I think it's just how it is.


Okay, thanks for reassuring me. I kind of panicked after seeing that case where the block hit the DVI hex screws







. We have amended water block tops since (shorten them for 1mm on the DVI/HMDI/DP output side).

Also, great news for all EK-FC780 GTX Jetstream water block owners. The Ti version of the Jetstream/Super Jetstream card is compatible with the said water block: http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1267

Gainward Phantom will follow the suit.

Also, a sneak peak into EK-FB ASUS M6I versions:
http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?mb_mbs=720


----------



## VSG

Hey EK, want to attempt the first ever console water block?


----------



## MrT0ad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> Hey EK, want to attempt the first ever console water block?


Might be the first Xbox ONE waterblock, but it would certainly not be the first ever console waterblock.

Console waterblocks have been around for quite a while, even Thermalright took a shot at that.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Hm, so my EK FC Titan SE blocks only come with two plugs. Does that mean I need to order two more for SLI with the EK FC Terminal bridge?


My FC Terminal bridge came with the extra G1/4 plugs, also you remove the current FC terminals to apply the bridge so you can re use all 4 of your Titan plugs. Now if you need to cover blanks those are separate.


----------



## szeged

new planned loop for the 900d, all acrylic, let me know what you think of the layout i have so far, gonna try some new route orders in a few mins, heres the first draft though

a few things to note - this will be on a maximus vi hero, i know i got the extreme board on there, its basically the same layout, just different blocks









Yes i know i should have picked different colors, this is probably going to be hell on a lot of peoples eyes trying to figure out whats going on here. sorry









Yes i know this is probably not the most practical route ever, but in my head what im imagining, it will look super badass.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> Hey EK, want to attempt the first ever console water block?


We most likely will.


----------



## lowfat

Can either of the EK guys confirm if the inlet and outlets on the CSQ block will be in the same position on the GTX780Ti as it is on the GTX780? I don't want bend new acrylic.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> M6I is partially manufactured and will start assembling on Monday, first shipments on Thursday and Friday.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> M6I is partially manufactured and will start assembling on Monday, first shipments on Thursday and Friday.
> 
> 
> 
> how long before they hit the retail ,..sorry tiborrr but this the only component that keeps me away from completing the build
> Thanks
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> how long before they hit the retail ,..sorry tiborrr but this the only component that keeps me away from completing the build
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Thursday-friday next week.
Click to expand...

^^^ this was last week
this block doesn't exist,...checked on EK web page (configurator) ,Frozen and Perf.PC


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Can either of the EK guys confirm if the inlet and outlets on the CSQ block will be in the same position on the GTX780Ti as it is on the GTX780? I don't want bend new acrylic.


It's the same. Backwards compatbile with EK-FC Titan SE and EK-FC Titan. You can connect either of these together with EK-FC Terminal.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> ^^^ this was last week
> this block doesn't exist,...checked on EK web page (configurator) ,Frozen and Perf.PC


I told you it's a sneak peak of various variants.

Yes, I know, but say thanks to nVidia for changing Ti layout and all the people waiting in line for our block







Our assembly team will work tomorrow and even on Sunday just to make enough Ti blocks to survive until Wednesday









Our CNCs run at full capacity and 20 hours a day. More are ordered, one of these will be operational by the end of next week.


----------



## pilotter

can I also use the inlet on the gpu on the left? I mean direct below the outlet on the gpu Block? Manual says you can use all four.


----------



## tiborrr12

No, you cant. Inlet and outlet must be on different sides. Either your inlet is on the left and outlet on the right or vice versa. Otherwise the water will flow past by the block.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> 
> 
> can I also use the inlet on the gpu on the left? I mean direct below the outlet on the gpu Block? Manual says you can use all four.


Are you using Asus crosschill as-is? Not worried about potential corrosion?


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Are you using Asus crosschill as-is? Not worried about potential corrosion?


uhhhhhh, lol no waiting for ekwb full mobo cooling....but it will be most likely insame location


----------



## Elmy

Any chance of a clear plexi without circles quad gpu terminal block? Also white delrin would be awesome too.


----------



## tiborrr12

@Elmy: Not at the moment, but plausible. White is no problem.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Can either of the EK guys confirm if the inlet and outlets on the CSQ block will be in the same position on the GTX780Ti as it is on the GTX780? I don't want bend new acrylic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's the same. Backwards compatbile with EK-FC Titan SE and EK-FC Titan. You can connect either of these together with EK-FC Terminal.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> ^^^ this was last week
> this block doesn't exist,...checked on EK web page (configurator) ,Frozen and Perf.PC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I told you it's a sneak peak of various variants.
> 
> Yes, I know, but say thanks to nVidia for changing Ti layout and all the people waiting in line for our block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Our assembly team will work tomorrow and even on Sunday just to make enough Ti blocks to survive until Wednesday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Our CNCs run at full capacity and 20 hours a day. More are ordered, one of these will be operational by the end of next week.
Click to expand...

You getting better in that 'Black Magic" marketing I tell you..,look at the quotes ,I asked you " how long before they hit the retail" and you stated.. next Thursday-Friday
http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/1320#post_21241212

do you see yourself saying "it's a sneak peak of various variants " or please quote yourself saying just that .. are you kidding me ?,if you can't deliver on time just admitted and don't waist my time

P.S. what the ..this means ?
Quote:


> one of these will be operational by the end of next week


you don't even know which one and you expect someone waiting for .. what ?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Also, a sneak peak into EK-FB ASUS M6I versions:
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?mb_mbs=720


Please, I'm too tired to argue







Quote:


> P.S. what the ..this means ?
> you don't even know which one and you expect someone waiting for .. what ?


More CNC machines.


----------



## Elmy

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157637830757804/

quote name="EK_tiborrr" url="/t/993624/ek-club/1330#post_21241583"]@Elmy: Not at the moment, but plausible. White is no problem.[/quote]

Can I contact you guys about getting a white quad GPU terminal block? I still have your emails. I think I told you guys... My computer is going to be in CPU magazine here in a few months once I get it 100% done. I just got 3 club 3D 290X's with a 4th on the way soon. I have to get a new mobo CPU and redo all my chrome piping now :-(

Here is some latest pictures of my rig


----------



## tiborrr12

Looks mighty good. Unfortunately at the time I cannot promise you when we will have white terminal as we're simply too busy.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Geez guys... give them a break. If you stand back and look at just how many products they have, you should cut them some slack because they haven't gotten your special board block out yet.

Quite disappointing reading this thread honestly, lots of people complaining and not many pictures of beautifully watercooled computers









Jeffinslaw


----------



## derickwm

People don't seem to realize that we release more varieties of water blocks than most of the other manufactures, combined. Yet, still complain.


----------



## VSG

Standards.. High standards


----------



## SeeThruHead

Do you guys currently make any blocks for a z87 board with a yellow theme?


----------



## Ragsters

Quick question EK guys. In all of your instructions guids that I have read you guys seem to recommend Mx-2 and 4. Why not MX-3. I used Mx-3 for all my blocks except CPU in which I used the gelid extreme that you guys provide. Please tell me MX-3 is non conductive.


----------



## tiborrr12

MX-3 is EOL, that's why. Otherwise it's a good components, some batches we're defective. If you have it at home - use it, by all means.

It's non conductive just like MX-2, MX-4, Gelid GC-Extreme and EK-TIM Ectotherm.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> MX-3 is EOL, that's why. Otherwise it's a good components, some batches we're defective. If you have it at home - use it, by all means.
> 
> It's non conductive just like MX-2, MX-4, Gelid GC-Extreme and EK-TIM Ectotherm.


Im sooooo relieved. Thanks for the quick response!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Geez guys... give them a break. If you stand back and look at just how many products they have, you should cut them some slack because they haven't gotten your special board block out yet.
> 
> Quite disappointing reading this thread honestly, lots of people complaining and not many pictures of beautifully watercooled computers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw












Yeah it's pretty humorous how many threads for different products have people basically holding EK solely responsible for releasing their particular block "NOW"


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it's pretty humorous how many threads for different products have people basically holding EK solely responsible for releasing their particular block "NOW"


I just think that goes to show that a lot of the WC community considers EK blocks an essential part of their builds. It's easy to see that they could get a little carried away if they can't complete the build the way they want because the block isn't available yet. But that's not really EK's fault. Just requires patience and planning on the part of the builder.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Do you guys currently make any blocks for a z87 board with a yellow theme?


Is there an Asus ROG yellow board? If not, then that should answer your question.


----------



## MrT0ad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> People don't seem to realize that we release more varieties of water blocks than most of the other manufactures, _combined_. Yet, still complain.


The above statement is actually not a hyperbole.

You guys are also the most likely manufacturer to be persuaded to make blocks that others would not touch with a barge pole. And you release them (in most cases) with three looks and two finishes.

I presume we have become demanding because you have proven receptive and forthcoming. The whole 'I offered them a hand... they ripped my arm off the shoulder socket and used it to club me' thing I guess.


----------



## MrT0ad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Is there an Asus ROG yellow board? If not, then that should answer your question.


If only ASUS could be persuaded . Yamaha yellow and black would make an excellent new generation of ROG products


----------



## Avonosac

I tried searching for it but I can't seem to quickly find it.

Has anyone tried, or seen any issues using a Supremacy block with Swiftech 3/8 5/8 LokSeal fittings?


----------



## matada

Someone needs to release a water block for the Gigabyte 990FXA-UD* I want to watercool ALL the things!


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> My FC Terminal bridge came with the extra G1/4 plugs, also you remove the current FC terminals to apply the bridge so you can re use all 4 of your Titan plugs. Now if you need to cover blanks those are separate.


Ahhh, okay. I was under the impression the SLI terminal just sat on top of the current terminals on the blocks. That makes much more sense then....I was like how do I plug all these holes! :3


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ahhh, okay. I was under the impression the SLI terminal just sat on top of the current terminals on the blocks. That makes much more sense then....I was like how do I plug all these holes! :3


Yeah you remove the 3 bolts to detach the existing terminals and then use those same bolts to get the multi bridge on. Personally I really like these because they prevent card sag.

The only thing you might need would be a blank adapter if for example you got a 3 way SLI bridge but only have two cards.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I tried searching for it but I can't seem to quickly find it.
> 
> Has anyone tried, or seen any issues using a Supremacy block with Swiftech 3/8 5/8 LokSeal fittings?


Stren has a Supremacy and some of the Swiftech QDCs. I'll send him this way.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Stren has a Supremacy and some of the Swiftech QDCs. I'll send him this way.


I appreciate it, I'm trying to find someone who has used the combo for a coworkers build. It looks like based on the design sheets it should fit, but it is pretty close, so I'm checking here


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ahhh, okay. I was under the impression the SLI terminal just sat on top of the current terminals on the blocks. That makes much more sense then....I was like how do I plug all these holes! :3


lol no wonder you were unable to attach the terminal. Glad that sorted out for you!


----------



## Anoxy

Well I haven't actually tried putting it on yet. Just eyeballed it and it didn't seem right. But you've cleared it up for me now haha


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Stren has a Supremacy and some of the Swiftech QDCs. I'll send him this way.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I appreciate it, I'm trying to find someone who has used the combo for a coworkers build. It looks like based on the design sheets it should fit, but it is pretty close, so I'm checking here


I'll check real quick, the swifties are fat and couldn't fit on every block. I think I have a list in the QDC roundup review.

>> edit yes they do, the list is in the roundup which I can't link /lulz


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> I just think that goes to show that a lot of the WC community considers EK blocks an essential part of their builds. It's easy to see that they could get a little carried away if they can't complete the build the way they want because the block isn't available yet. But that's not really EK's fault. Just requires patience and planning on the part of the builder.


well to be honest at the moment the amount of blocks Ekwb is producing is incredible, we are very lucky that Ekwb listen to it's customers. As for planning http://www.ekwb.com/news/364/19/New-water-blocks-for-ASUS-ROG-gear-in-the-works/ , is announced in July...than when I received the Asus Mf6, I found that there is aluminium in the Crosschill........ That's what is keeping me at a hold. Must admit it's my first build and next time I will work the other way around. Lol first check Ekwb and then buy hardware







But my hope are set on Monday for the blocks, And then I will be able to finish my build. Offcourse I can go around this part....


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> well to be honest at the moment the amount of blocks Ekwb is producing is incredible, we are very lucky that Ekwb listen to it's customers. As for planning http://www.ekwb.com/news/364/19/New-water-blocks-for-ASUS-ROG-gear-in-the-works/ , is announced in July...than when I received the Asus Mf6, I found that there is aluminium in the Crosschill........ That's what is keeping me at a hold. Must admit it's my first build and next time I will work the other way around. Lol first check Ekwb and then buy hardware
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But my hope are set on Monday for the blocks, And then I will be able to finish my build. Offcourse I can go around this part....


Yes, I know, but this is also when we were down to just 2 people in R&D (from 4). It is hard to do all the work with just two engineers. Situation is slowly picking up, now we are back at four and will - hopefully - have a fifth one by the end of the year.


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Yes, I know, but this is also when we were down to just 2 people in R&D (from 4). It is hard to do all the work with just two engineers. Situation is slowly picking up, now we are back at four and will - hopefully - have a fifth one by the end of the year.


it's better this way, then the other way. mean a business running like crazy, is better than slow runnning. I will keep checking your site for the MF6, by the way Richard Keirsgieter has a nice build with lots of ek goodies, but you should send him the MF6 blocks!! https://www.facebook.com/madebykier


----------



## seross69

I know your tired of everyone asking for a ETA on blocks. but







ok I cant help it. Do you think the MB fullboard block will be released by the first of the year?? For the Asus BE??


----------



## hoangpham

all the 290x blocks are on backorder








any ETA on any of them?


----------



## niklot1981

__
https://flic.kr/p/9516691069


__
https://flic.kr/p/9516691499


__
https://flic.kr/p/9516691695


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I know your tired of everyone asking for a ETA on blocks. but
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ok I cant help it. Do you think the MB fullboard block will be released by the first of the year?? For the Asus BE??


If it stays on schedule, it should be.


----------



## Snowlav

are there going to be any more blocks for the mvi gene ?
If that's possible.


----------



## derickwm

Do you mean in stock, or variations?


----------



## Snowlav

Both


----------



## derickwm

Variations, no. Stock, yes. Right now we're at maximum capacity with producing R9-290X & 780 ti blocks.


----------



## Snowlav

Awesome, thanks for letting me know!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If it stays on schedule, it should be.


thanks derrick..


----------



## OwaN

Looking all over the place for a non-CSQ FC7970 block to match the one I already have, but they're impossible to find new and hard to find used... Just figured I'd post here to vent my frustration with EK changing the design and EOL'ing the old design. Kind of screwed over the people who only had one card then added a second


----------



## hoangpham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Variations, no. Stock, yes. Right now we're at maximum capacity with producing R9-290X & 780 ti blocks.


Does that mean that out of stocks in other lines such as reservoirs are not being made in the mean while?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> Looking all over the place for a non-CSQ FC7970 block to match the one I already have, but they're impossible to find new and hard to find used... Just figured I'd post here to vent my frustration with EK changing the design and EOL'ing the old design. Kind of screwed over the people who only had one card then added a second


7970 non-csq is EOL for more than year and a half. Sorry to hear about your situation though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hoangpham*
> 
> Does that mean that out of stocks in other lines such as reservoirs are not being made in the mean while?
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk


No, reservoir are being made using different machining than water blocks (mostly CNC lathe). Do not worry, all products are being manufactured on daily basis. We assemble more than 200 blocks and other high-volume products per day.


----------



## szeged

any hints/teasers on what the RIVE BE blocks will be like? im guessing black acetyl to match the theme, but will you be trying to keep the shape of the oter block the same like you did with the maximus vi formula? I know its probably not the same since you guys basically just stuck your waterblock under the top part of the existing heatsink there, which turned out awesome btw. Im just curious how this one will end up for an already beautiful board


----------



## tiborrr12

Haven't really started the work yet. Spent some time figuring out how to retain that ROG lightning but it will most likely have to go. It's going to be available in all flavours (4 'clean' + at least 2 'original csq').


----------



## szeged

Alright cool, its a shame about the ROG lighting, it adds a lot to the board imo, but in the name of performance, im willing to cut some lighting out









thanks for the info


----------



## OwaN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> 7970 non-csq is EOL for more than year and a half. Sorry to hear about your situation though.


Yea, I'm aware its just been frustrating. Well, that and I prefer the non-CSQ's port design


----------



## hoangpham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> 7970 non-csq is EOL for more than year and a half. Sorry to hear about your situation though.
> No, reservoir are being made using different machining than water blocks (mostly CNC lathe). Do not worry, all products are being manufactured on daily basis. We assemble more than 200 blocks and other high-volume products per day.


ahh okay, well then I take it motherboard blocks are taking the back seat till you can get all the 290x/Ti orders out of the door?
I was looking for a z87x-OC block.


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hoangpham*
> 
> ahh okay, well then I take it motherboard blocks are taking the back seat till you can get all the 290x/Ti orders out of the door?
> I was looking for a z87x-OC block.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Monday, bro.


Tiborr you still have a GO for the MF6 today?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Haven't really started the work yet. Spent some time figuring out how to retain that ROG lightning but it will most likely have to go. It's going to be available in all flavours (4 'clean' + at least 2 'original csq').


This.....
I'm dying to get one since the only thing I need left for my new build log
cant wait cant wait cant wait









sure gonna get the 3 days DHL service for this


----------



## lowfat

So when will we see 780Ti blocks available? Need block ASAP.


----------



## rickyman0319

can I change Ek supreme HF (acetell/nickel top) into EK supreme HF ver.1 top? cause it has clean and pixel top? or I cannot do that?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> can I change Ek supreme HF (acetell/nickel top) into EK supreme HF ver.1 top? cause it has clean and pixel top? or I cannot do that?


Yes, you can. But you will need:
a) new mounting plate (for older, oval top)
b) new mounting (classic mounting with nuts, bolts and washers)


----------



## tSgt

Hoora for FC-Titan looking block !
Love this design, keep it as much as you can for future cards please


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Yes, you can. But you will need:
> a) new mounting plate (for older, oval top)
> b) new mounting (classic mounting with nuts, bolts and washers)


I am just taking about the top and not the whole thing.

I meant change EK supreme HF ver.1 top ( pixel) from EK supreme HF top (acteal). can I do it or not?

I have Ek Supreme HF (acteal/nickel) version.


----------



## Ragsters

Whats up with the low stock of EK 7970 CSQ nickel plexi blocks?


----------



## Egami

Heard that you guys were having issues with the EK-PSC Adapter 90° G1/4 Black leaking. Do you have any idea when this might get fixed?

Edit: Fixed the link


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Heard that you guys were having issues with the EK-PSC Adapter 90° G1/4 leaking. Do you have any idea when this might get fixed?


I haven't heard that, link?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Whats up with the low stock of EK 7970 CSQ nickel plexi blocks?


Are you guys ppanning to ship some out to PPC or Frozen anytime soon?


----------



## rickyman0319

can EK supreme HF ver.1 top fit on Ek supreme HF (acteal/nicket) cpu waterblock?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Whats up with the low stock of EK 7970 CSQ nickel plexi blocks?
> 
> 
> 
> Are you guys ppanning to ship some out to PPC or Frozen anytime soon?
Click to expand...

I will check into this and let you know.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I will check into this and let you know.


Thank you sir! I will purchase as soon as they are available.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I haven't heard that, link?


An email to my sponsor Jimm's from your customer service concerning the delay on my EK sponsorship package. Direct translation from the mail I got from Jimm's in turn: "EK has been having leaking issues with EK-PSC Adapter 90° G1/4 Black and they have all been recalled from the market!" I can you send you a screenie if you fancy.

Just wondering that if this is the case, does the leaking issue affect all the EK-PSC's or just the black ones?
Edit: I'd be happy rolling with the silves ones if they're trouble free


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I haven't heard that, link?
> 
> 
> 
> An email to my sponsor Jimm's from your customer service concerning the delay on my EK sponsorship package. Direct translation from the mail I got from Jimm's in turn: "EK has been having issues with EK-PSC Adapter 90° G1/4 Black and they have all been recalled from the market!" I can you send you a screenie if you fancy.
> 
> Just wondering that if this is the case, does the leaking issue affect all the EK-PSC's or just the black ones?
> Edit: I'd be happy rolling with the silves ones if they're trouble free
Click to expand...

Ah I just checked with coworkers. Yes there was a bad batch, if anyone is having problems with leaking EK-PSC adapters please feel free to file a new ticket with our support system and we will replace them ASAP.


----------



## Egami

Cheers Derick.









Can I still ask what might be the stock refreshing eta on EK-PLUG G1/4 as they show no stock. I'd only need three.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

My previous post was against the rules, sorry about that! Check the link.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1446043/wanted-old-style-ek-7970-backplate-non-csq

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Gunderman456

Will be incorporating the EK r9 290







water blocks and backplates into my new build, "The Hawaiian Heat Wave" (in sig)!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Ah I just checked with coworkers. Yes there was a bad batch, if anyone is having problems with leaking EK-PSC adapters please feel free to file a new ticket with our support system and we will replace them ASAP.


Are the silver/nickel ones fault-free? I've been using them for 2 months now.


----------



## derickwm

It's the most recent batch. 99% of you won't be effected but if it starts to leak for whatever reason let us know.


----------



## hiarc

Any information on when the ASUS R9 280X DC2T blocks will be out? Will there be clean CSQ blocks alongside a clean CSQ back plate available?


----------



## derickwm

Not quite sure on release date at the moment but there will be a clean CSQ block for sure, let me check to see if we're going a backplate (probably will be and if so it will be clean CSQ)


----------



## hiarc

Nice, nice thanks again Derick!


----------



## pilotter

just ordered MF6 block, it's on the EKWB site now






























don't see a manual pdf for installation yet, but i am sure that will follow.

edit, manual available.


----------



## Zapee995

I ordered a d5 compo reservoir (i already own the pump) but its not on stock...In site says something about "Only few pieces!" but Iggor is a very nice guy! Tomorrow they will have stock (i guess







) and everything will be fine...The reservoir i won now is leaking like hell, something like 200ml in the last 4 days....


----------



## gdubc

I just picked up the maximus vi hero for my kids build and was looking to get the blocks for it also. I can't find the new sb block anywhere except for the ek site and the shipping to Colorado on that one item would be more than the block itself. I am wanting to order a bunch of other stuff from Performance but they dont have the sb blocks. Any ideas on when I will be able to get that other block somewhere besides the ek shop? Will there be a kit with both sb and mosfet blocks included? Thanks!

P.S. Before anyone chimes in about not needing it, I know it is not needed (especially a hero) but it is wanted!


----------



## derickwm

Retailers should get the Hero SB block soon. There won't be a combo price for both, just offered individually.


----------



## gdubc

Thanks for the quick response! Maybe I will try to hold off on my order and see if they get some at Frozen or PerformancePcs. I have orders ready to go at both, but I am cheap and would like to save a few $$ shipping!

Also, it has probably been asked before, but are there any plans for clean versions of the mvf blocks?


----------



## derickwm

Previous gen hardware won't be getting any additional tops. Too much new stuff consistently coming out!


----------



## VSG

Hey Derick, is the south bridge on the M6F kit also included in a water loop? From those initial pictures s I thought it was just a passive heatsink but the new pictures on the website seem to indicate otherwise. For some reason, I can't download the manual right now so if anyone can confirm this, it would be nice.

Also, what are the odds on this being available via US resellers this week or the next?


----------



## Malik




----------



## Ragsters

Any news on the availability of the CSQ 7970 nickel plexi block?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Does anyone know if EKWB will be doing a "Black Friday" or "Cyber Monday" sale?

I'm about to pull the trigger on a pair of EK-FC780 GTX Classy - Nikel water blocks and a friend of mine is going to get a full WC kit, extra radiator, and some other things and saving money is always a good thing, especially since we have to have it shipped to the states.


----------



## tiborrr12

Malik: crazy good looking as usual.

47 Knucklehead: We have no 'Black Friday' tradition here in Europe, your best bet would be the US resellers.

EK-FB KIT ASUS M6F is essentially a two-block kit:


----------



## VSG

Oh man that SB block will be extremely awkward to fit into a loop with dual GPUs.


----------



## rickyman0319

I am looking to buy clear pixel top for EK supreme HF and EK supremacy . do u guys sell any of it?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> 47 Knucklehead: We have no 'Black Friday' tradition here in Europe, your best bet would be the US resellers.


Thanks. I pulled the trigger on the 2 water blocks and got a 5.1% discount at a US reseller. Can't wait for them to get them in from you and ship them out to me.









BTW, you may or may not want to hear this, but this is my first major order back with EK since the CQS fiasco. It's good to be back buying EK items again.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> 47 Knucklehead: We have no 'Black Friday' tradition here in Europe, your best bet would be the US resellers.


Yes we do, atleast 90% of Norway who sells PC/camera etc stuff has Black Friday ads this week.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh man that SB block will be extremely awkward to fit into a loop with dual GPUs.


Darn it, there is no way I can think of incorporating the SB block into my loop without making it look ugly. Looks like I have to skip this one


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Darn it, there is no way I can think of incorporating the SB block into my loop without making it look ugly. Looks like I have to skip this one


i can think of a way without it being ugly go

CPU--- >gpu1--- >SB-- >gpu2--- >res/pump

or

CPU--- >gpu1--- >gpu2--- >SB--- >res/pump


----------



## VSG

Oh perhaps I should have mentioned I have an EK Terminal connecting both GPUs and Koolance quick disconnects on either end. Currently my loop will be like this:

Res->Pump->Rad 1->Rad 2->CPU->Dual GPU->Res


Going from GPU2->SB->Res will be pretty impossible given the QDCs.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Yes we do, atleast 90% of Norway who sells PC/camera etc stuff has Black Friday ads this week.


Where?


----------



## Ragsters

All I want to know is if EK has shipped out 7970 water blocks (preferably CSQ nickel plexi) out to retailers like performance pcs and Frozen CPU.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Malik: crazy good looking as usual.
> 
> 47 Knucklehead: We have no 'Black Friday' tradition here in Europe, your best bet would be the US resellers.
> 
> EK-FB KIT ASUS M6F is essentially a two-block kit:


I need that but in RIVE BE edition
Fast...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I need that but in RIVE BE edition
> Fast...


I second that!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Thanks for the quick response! Maybe I will try to hold off on my order and see if they get some at Frozen or PerformancePcs. I have orders ready to go at both, but I am cheap and would like to save a few $$ shipping!
> 
> Also, it has probably been asked before, but are there any plans for clean versions of the mvf blocks?


I spoke with ppcs this morning. They should have the sb block in stock next week.









Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> All I want to know is if EK has shipped out 7970 water blocks (preferably CSQ nickel plexi) out to retailers like performance pcs and Frozen CPU.


They are no longer called "7970". You want "280X" waterblocks.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> They are no longer called "7970". You want "280X" waterblocks.


Both nomenclatures are used and either of them are in stock.


----------



## hotrod717

So they are in stock? Or did you mean neither??


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> So they are in stock? Or did you mean neither??


Touche


----------



## Asus11

will this TITAN waterblock be compatible with this back plate????

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-titan-backplate-black.html

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-titan-se-nickel.html

I think I ordered the wrong backplate...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> will this TITAN waterblock be compatible with this back plate????
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-titan-backplate-black.html
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-titan-se-nickel.html
> 
> I think I ordered the wrong backplate...


The Titan backplate was designed for the short water blocks so it will just miss 1 mount screw on the very end.

It shouldn't be very noticeable if you can't swap it for the proper FC780 GTX ti backplate
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-titan-se-backplate-black.html


----------



## gdubc

Anybody here in EK land have the new monsoon chain gun fittings? Curious how they look on a supremacy or some mosfet blocks.


----------



## lowfat

I see FCPU and PPCS had extremely limited stock of the GTX780Ti blocks today, but only in acetal.


----------



## matada

Just re-did my loop.



then this happened



34c under load for half an hour. unfortunately my pump seems to have developed a short. have to keep wiggling the cable









some of the sag is out of the GPU. so that's a plus.


----------



## szeged

nice clean loop, i like it. Just ordered that motherboard for my gfs brother last night







the price is great lol.


----------



## matada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> nice clean loop, i like it. Just ordered that motherboard for my gfs brother last night
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the price is great lol.


I paid $150 for mine, however I needed it ASAP so I paid more for it at Microcenter.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matada*
> 
> I paid $150 for mine, however I needed it ASAP so I paid more for it at Microcenter.


got it last night for $104.99


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matada*
> 
> Just re-did my loop.
> 
> then this happened
> 
> 34c under load for half an hour. unfortunately my pump seems to have developed a short. have to keep wiggling the cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> some of the sag is out of the GPU. so that's a plus.


Blue hands ftw.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/hands.jpg.html


----------



## szeged

are you holding the camera with your mouth?


----------



## matada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Blue hands ftw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


How'd you get it off?

Plus I messed my manicure up >.>


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> are you holding the camera with your mouth?


Camera is on a tripod 24/7. I also use a timer every shot to avoid slight movements.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matada*
> 
> How'd you get it off?
> 
> Plus I messed my manicure up >.>


It will start wearing off after a few days. You would have to scrub off a few layers of skin if you wanted it off sooner.


----------



## szeged

i prefer to imagine you with your camera in your mouth


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Blue hands ftw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/hands.jpg.html


Looks like you did something unspeakable with a Smurf.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> EK-FB KIT ASUS M6F is essentially a two-block kit:


Derrick, Tiborr: Could you guys tell me if having dual 290x with EK FC blocks and backplates connected by a dual terminal would block the inlet/outlet on the SB block above? If not, how much clearance do I have from the second GPU? I may have just found a solution to my loop issues.


----------



## $ilent

Guys I just made my first custom loop, I used an ek bay spin reservoir, CSQ acetel. I dont like the cloudy front cover, is it possible to change this to a clear one? I seem to remember someone on here who somehow made their cloudy res front cover clear, maybe by sanding it??


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Derrick, Tiborr: Could you guys tell me if having dual 290x with EK FC blocks and backplates connected by a dual terminal would block the inlet/outlet on the SB block above? If not, how much clearance do I have from the second GPU? I may have just found a solution to my loop issues.


You'll be able to install two EK-FC R9-290X blocks with backplates and have clearance with fittings.

@$ilent: Maybe this will do: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-bay-series/top-plexi-bay-spin-res-clean-csq.html


----------



## $ilent

ah brilliant, thanks tiborr! Ive just sent an email too haha

Will that fit my reservoir here - http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/EK-Water-Blocks-EK-BAY-SPIN-Reservoir-Acetal-CSQ_38343.html

?


----------



## tiborrr12

Yes, it is made precisely for this type of reservoir.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> You'll be able to install two EK-FC R9-290X blocks with backplates and have clearance with fittings


Thanks Tiborr, you're the best! Now that US retailers are getting this, I will be buying it after all!


----------



## tiborrr12

No problems, glad I can help out!









It's actually the same story as with FB KIT ASUS M5F, hole layout is virtually the same. And it has been done on many occasions with M5F, just check the galleries.


----------



## saer

Any word on how the blocks for the RIVBE are coming along ?









Still on schedule for mid December ?


----------



## szeged

Really cool build using nothing but EK products to cool it -





not working unless i link it =\ hmm.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Any word on how the blocks for the RIVBE are coming along ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still on schedule for mid December ?


Wondering the same thing


----------



## tiborrr12

More or less on schedule.


----------



## snef

Hi EK Guys

some pics of EK in Sand of God





next steps is GTX780 HOF with a White Block


----------



## derickwm

That looks awesome Snef!


----------



## Malik

Clean look


----------



## natsu2014

Nice


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Clean look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are you going for hard tubing? It looks perfectly placed for it.


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Are you going for hard tubing? It looks perfectly placed for it.


No, there will be a classic Tygon tubes


----------



## snef

Hi

i know you working on a GTX 780 HOF waterblock

but any new about GTX 780 ti HOF?
you dont received any info on this gppu by chance? just to know if your block will fit on the ti version


----------



## derickwm

We haven't had a chance to check out the PCB yet but given the pattern that non-ref 780s have been following, there's a good chance the block will be compatible with both the 780 HOF and 780 ti HOF. We'll keep you updated asap.


----------



## snef

Thanks

anyway, I will buy what is compatible with your block

the theme is more important than some FPS


----------



## Geoffrey4283

Any updates on the M6I block (availability and/or audio-header clearance)?


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geoffrey4283*
> 
> Any updates on the M6I block (availability and/or audio-header clearance)?


This.

Can the M6G SB block be mounted upside down/rotated 180-degrees so that it wont block the second PCIe lane?


----------



## hoangpham

Hi there,
I've had an order from ekwb online and it's been in processing for 5 days,
is that normal for items that are neither in high demand or on backorder?


----------



## gdubc

Wouldn't you know it. I had been waiting for performance pcs to get the new mvi gene chipset block in stock to place my order. While waiting, they went out of stock on the supremacy clean nickel block I wanted. They had the cyber Monday deal and I didn't want to risk losing the last in stock of another item I had in my cart so I placed the order late last night. I look online this morning and there it is, gene block is of course now in stock. So sad.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hoangpham*
> 
> Hi there,
> I've had an order from ekwb online and it's been in processing for 5 days,
> is that normal for items that are neither in high demand or on backorder?


What all did your order include?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Wouldn't you know it. I had been waiting for performance pcs to get the new mvi gene chipset block in stock to place my order. While waiting, they went out of stock on the supremacy clean nickel block I wanted. They had the cyber Monday deal and I didn't want to risk losing the last in stock of another item I had in my cart so I placed the order late last night. I look online this morning and there it is, gene block is of course now in stock. So sad.


Sane thing happened to me with Frozencpu. The ek7970 block was out of stock so I waited but during that time the bitspower 90 adapters went out of stock. I didnt want to risk not getting the gpu block so I made the order and of course the next day the 90s were back in stock. The good news for me was that the gpu block that I ordered also was out of stock the following day so Im glad I ordered it. Made 2 orders in 2 days.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Sane thing happened to me with Frozencpu. The ek7970 block was out of stock so I waited but during that time the bitspower 90 adapters went out of stock. I didnt want to risk not getting the gpu block so I made the order and of course the next day the 90s were back in stock. The good news for me was that the gpu block that I ordered also was out of stock the following day so Im glad I ordered it. Made 2 orders in 2 days.


Ive had this happen at Frozen before, I called them and they combined both orders and combined shipping for me without an issue.


----------



## gdubc

Yep. Thats what they just did for me! Makes me happy! They gave me a call right back and took care of it. Good customer service there at frozencpu!


----------



## BradleyW

Hey!
Will this:
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-FC-R9-290X-Full-Cover-Waterblock--Copper-Acetal-pid-22533.html
Work with this?:
http://www.ebuyer.com/582397-r9-290x-4g-gddr5-pci-e-dual-dvi-d-hdmi-dp-21226-00-40g
Reason I ask is, that block has an extended area on the right. This is where the caps would be?

Thanks.


----------



## VSG

Yup, you are right. That block will fit any 290/290x released so far.


----------



## hoangpham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hoangpham*
> 
> Hi there,
> I've had an order from ekwb online and it's been in processing for 5 days,
> is that normal for items that are neither in high demand or on backorder?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What all did your order include?
Click to expand...

Ek 150 res
780 classified block and backplate
5/8 Tubing
Supremacy acetal

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk


----------



## derickwm

PM me an order# and I'll have it looked into.


----------



## defiler2k

Are there any 780TI's that can use the 780 blocks? Or are they that different?


----------



## tiborrr12

Haven't found any so far. Reference design cards all use the new PCB hence EK-FC Titan (SE) blocks aren't officially compatible.

Custom design boards are all compatible since no manufacturer bothered to change the circuit board (why would they?).


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Are there any 780TI's that can use the 780 blocks? Or are they that different?




no go.

edit to add: the expert ninja'd me. he knows this stuff better.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Haven't found any so far. Reference design cards all use the new PCB hence EK-FC Titan (SE) blocks aren't officially compatible.
> 
> Custom design boards are all compatible since no manufacturer bothered to change the circuit board (why would they?).


Thanks tiborrr, I was looking to step up from my 780's to TI's and get blocks for the 780's while I get the ti's but only if they were compatible.

But I just checked and the 780 Classy and the 780ti classy are using the same block which is great


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yup, you are right. That block will fit any 290/290x released so far.


Sounds good. Thank you.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

EK goodness in my rig


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Are there any 780TI's that can use the 780 blocks? Or are they that different?


http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-80.jpg.html

This is on a reference GTX780Ti. I had to dremel some of the acrylic and had to add a bunch of thicker thermal pads where the VRMs didn't get contact. I have tested up to 1.32V and the VRMs are getting enough cooling.


----------



## szeged

1.32v on the 780ti?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 1.32v on the 780ti?


Read post 1 in the GTX780Ti club. I am using the 1.3V mod w/ LLC = 1.319V.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Read post 1 in the GTX780Ti club. I am using the 1.3V mod w/ LLC = 1.319V.


the volt mod doesnt support 780ti yet because afterburner doesnt recognize them as a real card yet.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the volt mod doesnt support 780ti yet because afterburner doesnt recognize them as a real card yet.


So it it not actually @ 1.319V like it says? And why does he skyn3t list the mod in the first post if it doesn't work?

http://hostthenpost.org


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> So it it not actually @ 1.319V like it says? And why does he skyn3t list the mod in the first post if it doesn't work?
> 
> http://hostthenpost.org


nope unfortunately it isnt really past 1.212 =\

i think the front page has it there as a placeholder, once we get proper afterburner support we should see 1.3v+ follow shortly after, but as of right now we cant get past 1.212v without hardmodding







thats why im waiting on that 780ti classy







1.5v alllllll day.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> nope unfortunately it isnt really past 1.212 =\
> 
> i think the front page has it there as a placeholder, once we get proper afterburner support we should see 1.3v+ follow shortly after, but as of right now we cant get past 1.212v without hardmodding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thats why im waiting on that 780ti classy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.5v alllllll day.


Well that explains why my card doesn't scale w/ voltage.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Well that explains why my card doesn't scale w/ voltage.


haha







that could possibly be it! we should hopefully have voltage control on them soon


----------



## ervhamzz213

hey guys i wanted to share my rig which consists 2 EKWB's. i was supposed to buy 64mm ek rads but the space seems to be a little of a problem.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> hey guys i wanted to share my rig which consists 2 EKWB's. i was supposed to buy 64mm ek rads but the space seems to be a little of a problem.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks pretty good









black ice rads?


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> looks pretty good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> black ice rads?


thank you sir!!
yes sir!! black ice sr1 coolinglab editions. these rads are the only low fpi rads that could fit inside my case.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> thank you sir!!
> yes sir!! black ice sr1 coolinglab editions. these rads are the only low fpi rads that could fit inside my case.


very high quality rads with nice optimization for low rpm fans







very nice choice


----------



## VSG

Looks like EK's answer to the Aquaero is coming soon: http://www.ekwb.com/news/431/19/EK-offering-sneak-peak-into-EK-Ascendacy/


----------



## NYMD

If an AP-15 draws about 1 watt, how many times can you safely split each of these channels?

>control up to 8 4-pin PWM or 3-pin DC fans (15W each)

I do like the integrated copper block. Nice.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> hey guys i wanted to share my rig which consists 2 EKWB's. i was supposed to buy 64mm ek rads but the space seems to be a little of a problem.


Really great looking setup!


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Geoffrey4283*
> 
> Any updates on the M6I block (availability and/or audio-header clearance)?
> 
> 
> 
> This.
> 
> Can the M6G SB block be mounted upside down/rotated 180-degrees so that it wont block the second PCIe lane?
Click to expand...


----------



## NYMD

Great packaging, EK.


----------



## wermad

Any one interested in a "Classic" square top Supreme HF, jab-tech has a new one listed in auction:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271339925493?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

An oldie but a goody. Truely a classic. Keep in mind a new Supremacy sells for ~$65 so I wouldn't pay close to this price.

Tempted but I'm gonna wait for an acetal Supremacy csq to pop up.


----------



## kimoswabi

Just about finished with my CaseLabs S3 mini-ITX build.
Acrylic tubing, Reservoir, Radiator, CPU/ GPU waterblocks, & Pump are all EK components. Will post final pics once lighting setup is complete.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Just about finished with my CaseLabs S3 mini-ITX build.
> Acrylic tubing, Reservoir, Radiator, CPU/ GPU waterblocks, & Pump are all EK components. Will post final pics once lighting setup is complete.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks sick, love it.


----------



## derickwm

Definitely. Looks great man.


----------



## Malik

Gene by EKWB


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Gene by EKWB


Can you make a build log please? Your photography is amazing!









Jeffinslaw


----------



## Malik

WL in progress


----------



## BradleyW

Hey EK cub,
what's the difference between these blocks cooling ability? One looks larger than the other. Does the larger one provide more cooling to a larger area of the card?

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-FC-R9-290X-Full-Cover-Waterblock--Copper-Plexi-pid-22532.html

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-FC-R9-290X-Full-Cover-Waterblock--Copper-Acetal-pid-22533.html


----------



## VSG

No, both provide the same cooling. The larger one covers the entire PCB and is just an aesthetic choice.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No, both provide the same cooling. The larger one covers the entire PCB and is just an aesthetic choice.


I see.
Is it allowed to mix silver barbs with nickel plated blocks in the loop? (Both CPU and GPU blocks)


----------



## Jakusonfire

The "Silver" barbs are most likely Nickel plated. All loops have at least some copper or brass and many components are Nickel plated. If it was a problem the manufacturers wouldn't make them.


----------



## VSG

I wouldn't do that if the barbs are truly silver given the recent issues some ppl have had with their nickel plated blocks and a silver coil.

Hopefully my maximus 6 formula block is compatible with Primochill's liquid utopia.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I wouldn't do that if the barbs are truly silver given the recent issues some ppl have had with their nickel plated blocks and a silver coil.
> 
> Hopefully my maximus 6 formula block is compatible with Primochill's liquid utopia.


Correct even ek website I think it says do not use silver coil because it will cause flaking and void your warranty. I have all nickle plated blocks and have not had any issues and I haven't used silver coil


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I wouldn't do that if the barbs are truly silver given the recent issues some ppl have had with their nickel plated blocks and a silver coil.
> 
> Hopefully my maximus 6 formula block is compatible with Primochill's liquid utopia.


Why would It not be compatible with Primochill's liquid utopia?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I wouldn't do that if the barbs are truly silver given the recent issues some ppl have had with their nickel plated blocks and a silver coil.
> 
> Hopefully my maximus 6 formula block is compatible with Primochill's liquid utopia.


BradlyW is looking at 290X blocks which are made in the last month.
Not blocks that were made at introdcution of CSQ.

and I believe her was originally asking about barbs anyhow - not kill coil ??

There is a big difference - let's keep it in perspective


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> BradlyW is looking at 290X blocks which are made in the last month.
> Not blocks that were made at introdcution of CSQ.
> 
> and I believe her was originally asking about barbs anyhow - not kill coil ??
> 
> There is a big difference - let's keep it in perspective


I think to be safe I will just use Nickel barbs.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I think to be safe I will just use Nickel barbs.


I don't think you have to use nickle bards you will always have copper in the loop since the radiators use copper. Just use biocides that are free from silver and everything shkuld be good.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> I don't think you have to use nickle bards you will always have copper in the loop since the radiators use copper. Just use biocides that are free from silver and everything shkuld be good.


Well, instead of having to mix biocides and such, would I be OKusing Feser One? It seems to contain biocides and anti corrosive properties. (I don't know how to mix my own solutions).


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Well, instead of having to mix biocides and such, would I be OKusing Feser One? It seems to contain biocides and anti corrosive properties. (I don't know how to mix my own solutions).


Use Meyhem's Biocide Extreme.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Use Meyhem's Biocide Extreme.


I will check that out, thank you.
In the meantime, does this block cool the whole 290X? (Such as VRM's) I only see space fore GPU die and VRAM chips.
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-FC-R9-290X-Full-Cover-Waterblock--Copper-Plexi-pid-22532.html
Also, do I need to buy blanking plugs? otherwise the water would shoot out of the other side of the holes in the block right?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I will check that out, thank you.
> In the meantime, does this block cool the whole 290X? (Such as VRM's) I only see space fore GPU die and VRAM chips.
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-FC-R9-290X-Full-Cover-Waterblock--Copper-Plexi-pid-22532.html


There is no difference between versions of the same waterblock. Look at the underside, the metal part is identical

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-nickel.html

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-acetal-nickel.html

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-original-csq-nickel.html


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There is no difference between versions of the same waterblock. Look at the underside, the metal part is identical
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-nickel.html
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-acetal-nickel.html
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-original-csq-nickel.html


Thank you.
Do I need to buy blanking plugs for these blocks?
I ask this because it looks as if the water would shoot out of the other side of the holes in the block.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Thank you.
> Do I have to buy thermal pads for the VRM's and VRAM modules?


EK blocks come with thermal pads and thermal paste.


----------



## derickwm

EK blocks come with everything necessary. Two plugs, thermal pads, thermal paste, everything. Just needs fittings.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> EK blocks come with everything necessary. Two plugs, thermal pads, thermal paste, everything. Just needs fittings.


...tubing, rads, pumps and reservoirs


----------



## derickwm

Come on


----------



## Heuristic

Do you know the status of the GTX 780 HOF waterblock? It was originally slated for October.


----------



## King4x4

So who to persuade (Bribe) to be a beta tester for this baby?


----------



## derickwm

That would be me


----------



## VSG

How much?


----------



## SeeThruHead

How long does it take you guys to make and ship backplates? I was all ready with waterblock and backplate (780 Classy versions) for the upcoming 780ti classy, but I've decided to get a k|ngp|n version instead. Jacob from EVGA has said that I'll be able to use the 780 Classy Waterblock but not the backplate. So now I'm wondering how long it will take for a backplate to be released. (Build just wouldn't be the same without it.)


----------



## BradleyW

Would any of you rate EK's premium coolant fluid?


----------



## LunaP

Hey guys in the market for some GPU/CPU coolers and was wondering if anyone with Acrylic (see thru) had pics of their blocks in action w/ LED's in them? I can't find any on google and the gallery only has ones before they came in their polished format. Must appreciated as aesthetics is part of my reason buy as I'm on the fence between the 2 while looking @ XSPC GPU blocks w/ LED's and the Raystorm w/ LED's for CPU.

Much appreciated!


----------



## gdubc

When can we expect that Acendacy? It would work great im my kids Vengeance c70. Putting together my first custom loops soon. Two at a time. Midi r2 for me and c70 for my boy. I have most of the parts now. Trying to go 100% EK for him, got him the clean nickel blocks for his Hero/4770k.


----------



## derickwm

Seross has more somewhere in his build log.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seross has more somewhere in his build log.


Any chance you have a bigger pic XD or the original?









Much appreciated btw.


----------



## VSG

Just got my M6F Nickel/Acetal block kit. I would have gone with Copper/Acetal if that was made but this looks great. Now to install it!


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That would be me


I would be interested! I've been trying to avoid using an optical slot on my Prodigy, but still need a fan controller module somewhere. Plus it matches well with my block:


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I'll bite ....

CPU block -EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Clean Copper / Plexi (EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ) - [3830046990808]

2x GPU Water Blocks - EK ASUS GeForce 780 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel (EK-FC780 GTX DCII - Nickel)
2x GPU Backplates - EK ASUS GeForce 780 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling RAM Backplate - Black CSQ (EK-FC780 GTX DCII Backplate - Black)

1 x Reservoir - EK-MultiOption RES X3 250 - Liquid Cooling Reservoir - White Acetal (6 Total Ports) w/ (2) EK Extender Fittings
1 x Reservoir Top - EK X3 Reservoir Multiport Replacement Top - White (EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP WHITE)
1 x Fill Tube - Internal Tube 12/16 - 140mm (EK-RES-X3-TUBE-140)

3 x Acrylic Tube - EK 12mm OD Solid Tube Set - Clear - 2x 19.5" (EK-HD Tube 10/12mm 500mm)

-Supremacy rocks for 1150 socket and the clear top saved my tail when after thoroughly flushing rads and other components at 5 gpm for over an hour...I ran the loop for 4 days on DW before adding coolant. Clear top allowed me to observe "black stuff" clogging the micro-channels which I never would have know about with solid top..... i surmise that it was one of two things ....

a) something from inside the 35x2
b) paint flecks from the screw threads shaken / scraped loose from assembling fittings to rads, blocks and other components.

-Water blocks on GPUs giving me 40C under Furmark w/ just 5 fans @ 1230 rpm on 700mm worth of rad so all happy there .... wishing WB's had edge option to connect instead of just top and bottom.

-Res mounted tool-lessly on Enthoo resbracket....didn't even need the nuts..... wish I knew that they'd be left over when I was doing WBs.

Pretty much content across the board w/ following exceptions:

CPU Water Block

Directions say ....
Quote:


> Install the M4 thumb screws of the PreciseMount mounting system onto your motherboard. It is mandatory to put *0.7mm* plastic washer underneath each of the M4 thumb screws.....


Here's what I had in the package ....three (not four) plastic washers and none 0.7mm ..... mine were 0.83, 0.89 and 0.96 mm thick when measured with a caliper. Frozen CPU sent out four replacement EK plastic washers .....all were 0.80 thick. Hoping the 0.70 / 0.80 difference is not significant from a spring tensioning PoV.

GPU Backplates

This is the clean (no circles) "short version" of the full cover WB. First kudos cause it's the only one of the three EK WBs for the Asus 780 DCII that will fit in SLI in the Enthoo Primo and it fits only cause the WB does not run the full length of the PCB (comes up like an inch short), But, because it's shorter than the backplate, it needs nuts to secure the screws at the ends where after going thru the backplate and the PCM, there's nothing but air to hold them. The instructions say to install the included M3 nuts included but in both instances the nuts were missing from the hardware bags. Still waking up at night conflicted by my silver nuts on black screws.









Reservoir

Nice res.... really liked the white option as it breaks up the black monotony..... went for the multi-top replacement so could fill from top w/o air-lock / bubbling but whereas the Bitspower Aquatube fit nicely on the inside threads of the single port top, the smaller G1/4 threads on the multi-port stop like 1mm short so ya can't screw in from inside .... requires that ya spring for one of EKs own fill tubes. Didn't mind the $6.95 but having to order and wait for a replacement was annoying.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just got my M6F Nickel/Acetal block kit. I would have gone with Copper/Acetal if that was made but this looks great. Now to install it!


Still puzzled by that one.... assuming you mean MoBo block.... definitely can't see how ya'd pipe that thing with cupla GFX cards.


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That would be me


You my dear sir got a PM!

Need that baby to control my new builds +60 PWM fans and to also give out temperature/flow readings.

Got 61 Evercool Titan Kukris waiting to be tamed! (They push a lot of air but are a bit noisy at 2200rpm... dial them down to 1800 rpm and they are tamed beyond expectations while pushing a lot of air still!)



The Plan is to power through 10 of these while having one PWM signal from the MOBO:


But if this little beauty can do it... I might as well check it up!

(Aquero 6 is out of the question... Don't like their stuff).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hey guys in the market for some GPU/CPU coolers and was wondering if anyone with Acrylic (see thru) had pics of their blocks in action w/ LED's in them? I can't find any on google and the gallery only has ones before they came in their polished format. Must appreciated as aesthetics is part of my reason buy as I'm on the fence between the 2 while looking @ XSPC GPU blocks w/ LED's and the Raystorm w/ LED's for CPU.
> 
> Much appreciated!


Most of previous build was with plexi lighted up.


----------



## niklot1981

__
https://flic.kr/p/11265928293


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Still puzzled by that one.... assuming you mean MoBo block.... definitely can't see how ya'd pipe that thing with cupla GFX cards.


lol it took me a while to plan this out but here is what it currently looks like (please excuse the picture quality, my dSLR is under repair):










I got 2 bitspower 50mm extenders going into a phobya rotary 90 degree elbow which gives me enough height to clear the first GPU. I then have a koolance QD3 quick disconnect going to a bitspower dual rotary compression fitting and finally onto the CPU inlet. So if I ever need to remove the GPUs, I use the quick disconnect in the middle, turn the elbow around so that it is in the middle of both GPUs and just pull the GPUs out (which are going to be on their own quick disconnects).

Incidentally, the MOSFET block has EK male-female fittings on them which worked perfectly with my Koolance 380i as you can sort of see in the background: 90 degree rotary adapters, an XSPC rotary male-female fitting and a bitspower 30 mm (or 25, not sure anymore) extender.


----------



## BradleyW

Are these compression fittings too wide to be used on an EK supremacy clean CSQ water block?
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-14-Thread-Compression-Fitting-for-12-ID---34-OD-Tubing--Black-Chrome-pid-12867.html
Thank you.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niklot1981*
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/11265928293


Fantastic pic.


----------



## niklot1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Fantastic pic.


Thank you!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol it took me a while to plan this out but here is what it currently looks like (please excuse the picture quality, my dSLR is under repair):
> 
> I got 2 bitspower 50mm extenders going into a phobya rotary 90 degree elbow which gives me enough height to clear the first GPU. I then have a koolance QD3 quick disconnect going to a bitspower dual rotary compression fitting and finally onto the CPU inlet. So if I ever need to remove the GPUs, I use the quick disconnect in the middle, turn the elbow around so that it is in the middle of both GPUs and just pull the GPUs out (which are going to be on their own quick disconnects).


It's figuring the GPU WBs in that gave me the willies....especially w/o flex ....


----------



## VSG

Well that's a beautiful build you got so I wouldn't really bother dismantling it.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Thanx .... wanna come over and do my sleeving ?









I just couldn't figure how to get any cooling in between the cards .... was thinking of a small 80mm ....was disappointed they didn't have a fan for the thermal armor like on the Sabertooth.

I'm quite content with the Anodized Aluminum block up top ..... been working with the stuff for over 25 years in highly corrosive environments .... no concerns there.

Wish I wuda removed and replaced TIM tho.... see VRM temps of 40, 40, 37 on VRMs.

BTW, if anyone finds it useful....this is the fan profiles I have set up for the M6F

CPU Fan: 30C / 13% PWM ..... 35C / 25% PWM ..... 50C / 100% PWM

Chassis / Rad Fans: 20C / 32% PWM ..... 40C / 50% PWM ..... 70C / 40% PWM


----------



## VSG

My PSU cables AND my tubing is going to be sleeved- just not from me


----------



## gdubc

Anybody know if there are plans for ek fittings for hard tube? Other than the hd push fit line? (Just not a big fan of those ones.)


----------



## derickwm

What additional fittings are you wanting?


----------



## gdubc

Maybe kind of like the 2 pc. compression type. They are probably out there already and I am just a tired dumbass...


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Maybe kind of like the 2 pc. compression type. They are probably out there already and I am just a tired dumbass...


Ah, those are a WIP.


----------



## tSgt

EK just achieved the world fastest shipping/delivery. Got the shipping confirmation today at 08:51AM, and I got my order delivered today at 9:05AM !! 14min to do Slovenia => France !

I didn't know Slovenian post service are doing their job with a spaceship


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> EK just achieved the world fastest shipping/delivery. Got the shipping confirmation today at 08:51AM, and I got my order delivered today at 9:05AM !! 14min to do Slovenia => France !
> 
> I didn't know Slovenian post service are doing their job with a spaceship


woah, must have a teleport in there dispatch depot lol,

bet they spent 13mins deciding who would use it


----------



## derickwm

It's a constant battle


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> EK just achieved the world fastest shipping/delivery. Got the shipping confirmation today at 08:51AM, and I got my order delivered today at 9:05AM !! 14min to do Slovenia => France !
> 
> I didn't know Slovenian post service are doing their job with a spaceship


Tracking error or for real?


----------



## jokrik

Any hint or teaser for RIVBE block maybe?


----------



## wermad

Most likely a tracking error. I have seen where the day of delivery, the tracking still shows nothing. And then later on, everything uploads, including "delivered". 1 in 2 packages will have up to date info from my experience.

i was expecting my new mb today, but sadly, the tracking just updated after four days (







) and its still about 400 miles away (














).

Placed a few orders for some ram blocks and ram plates. How easy is to remove the ram heatsinks (Corsair Vengeance) for those have done Monarchs?






Also, ordered a CSQ acetal/nickel. I was lucky Jab-Tech still had some as everyone else is just carrying the "Clean" versions. I'm trying to match my gpu blocks and the acetal crop-cirlces is growing on me. Its better then the frosted look imho.


----------



## lowfat

Crop circles are the way to go.









Clean just looks too damn plain IMO.

Removing ramsinks is relatively easy, just make sure you apply enough heat w/ the heatgun and pry them off slowly.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Tracking error or for real?


I'd say EK is a bit slow to update order status haha, but it was fun to read the mail then a few minutes later, the postman ringing at my door haha


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hey guys in the market for some GPU/CPU coolers and was wondering if anyone with Acrylic (see thru) had pics of their blocks in action w/ LED's in them? I can't find any on google and the gallery only has ones before they came in their polished format. Must appreciated as aesthetics is part of my reason buy as I'm on the fence between the 2 while looking @ XSPC GPU blocks w/ LED's and the Raystorm w/ LED's for CPU.
> 
> Much appreciated!


These are kind of old now, but here's what my CPU block looks like with LEDs in it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> cleanARC - stage I
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



So clean.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Crop circles are the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean just looks too damn plain IMO.
> 
> Removing ramsinks is relatively easy, just make sure you apply enough heat w/ the heatgun and pry them off slowly.


Thank you Low









"Clean" plexi does look good but Clean acetal does look a bit plain unless there's a ss piece there too.

I say bring back the old EK logo etching (the "squared" one, not the old old "fox-tail" one







).


----------



## Ragsters

Quick question guys. For those who installed an EK CSQ video card block did you guys put thermal paste under the thermal pads? Also do I put it under every thermal pad?


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quick question guys. For those who installed an EK CSQ video card block did you guys put thermal paste under the thermal pads? Also do I put it under every thermal pad?


My understanding is that you do not need to use thermal paste but people claim if you do you will obtain cooler temperatures. Once my blocks comes in I will be using fujipoly ultra extremes with Phobya HeGrease.

What is the name of the EK Hardware Rep?


----------



## Pheozero

Who? Derick? Or Tibbor?


----------



## ikem

guess i should post this here.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quick question guys. For those who installed an EK CSQ video card block did you guys put thermal paste under the thermal pads? Also do I put it under every thermal pad?


No need to put thermal paste anywhere except on the GPU itself. The included pads will do all the work for you. Applying paste will not net you better temps. All it will do is slightly increase the distance between the block and the VRM even more and that can't do anything good. Pads are made to transfer heat like thermal paste. If you are looking for better temps buy the expensive fujipoly ultra extremes like the previous poster. They are amazing, but the price is pretty crazy.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> No need to put thermal paste anywhere except on the GPU itself. The included pads will do all the work for you. Applying paste will not net you better temps. All it will do is slightly increase the distance between the block and the VRM even more and that can't do anything good. Pads are made to transfer heat like thermal paste. If you are looking for better temps buy the expensive fujipoly ultra extremes like the previous poster. They are amazing, but the price is pretty crazy.


Thanks buddy!


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Who? Derick? Or Tibbor?


+rep either works I need to ask them which EK FC Terminal I need for my three 290x's on a Rampage IV Black Edition....guess this is a good question for you guys too


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Thanks buddy!


Not a problem. I have actually tried putting TIM on the thermal pads when I got my first water block and I can tell you that it did nothing, but make a mess


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Who? Derick? Or Tibbor?
> 
> 
> 
> +rep either works I need to ask them which EK FC Terminal I need for my three 290x's on a Rampage IV Black Edition....guess this is a good question for you guys too
Click to expand...

@derickwm you are being summoned.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> @derickwm you are being summoned.


Rise from the ashes of the deepest abyss Derick! You're summoning will soon be complete!!! Muahahahahaha (Evil laughter)


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> @derickwm you are being summoned.


Oh snap you can summon people? @derickwm lend me your knowledge my good sir! I feel like I'm in the insurance commercial!


----------



## LunaP

Bah, I fold, enough reading up and conclusions, Think I'll go w/ the EK FC gpu blocks acrylic style w/ Nickel plates. From what I"m gathering even though XSPC Razor blocks beat them in GPU Core Temps the EK's rise above w/ VRM / VRAM Temps.

Unless I"m understanding it wrong, VRM temps are much more important vs the actual core correct?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Bah, I fold, enough reading up and conclusions, Think I'll go w/ the EK FC gpu blocks acrylic style w/ Nickel plates. From what I"m gathering even though XSPC Razor blocks beat them in GPU Core Temps the EK's rise above w/ VRM / VRAM Temps.
> 
> Unless I"m understanding it wrong, VRM temps are much more important vs the actual core correct?


Yea I would say VRM temps are more important. At least they are to me personally. Even though VRM can withstand higher temps than the GPU so I guess technically GPU is more important than VRM, but with any water block you aren't going to even get close to the max temps with sufficient rad space so the EK block should just be fine.

What am I doing in this thread?? I don't even own any EK products!!









Oh wait I own an EK top for my MCP655. Nevermind! I guess I really do belong here







.... i guess i really do belong here


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yea I would say VRM temps are more important. At least they are to me personally. Even though VRM can withstand higher temps than the GPU so I guess technically GPU is more important than VRM, but with any water block you aren't going to even get close to the max temps with sufficient rad space so the EK block should just be fine.
> 
> What am I doing in this thread?? I don't even own any EK products!!


Lol appreciate it though lower temps on VRM = more stable OC's correct? Though if VRM's aren't as important then GPU Core would be? In that case it'd be XSPC? Ugh you're opening up a scar that just got sewn up LOL


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Lol appreciate it though lower temps on VRM = more stable OC's correct? Though if VRM's aren't as important then GPU Core would be? In that case it'd be XSPC? Ugh you're opening up a scar that just got sewn up LOL


Honestly I think VRM temps are more important so go with the EK block. DONE! See! That was easy!


----------



## seross69

Can we get a idea of the ETA on the Motherboard blocks for the BE???? I also hope they come in copper if you want these.


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Can we get a idea of the ETA on the Motherboard blocks for the BE???? I also hope they come in copper if you want these.


+1, I hope the full MB comes in copper. Also can the EK ram coolers be used on my gskill tridents with the heatsink removed?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> +1, I hope the full MB comes in copper. Also can the EK ram coolers be used on my gskill tridents with the heatsink removed?


I used them on the rip jawz just have to remove the Gskill heatsink and install the EK ones then put the water blocks on it. *Here* is where i showed how to do this


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I used them on the rip jawz just have to remove the Gskill heatsink and install the EK ones then put the water blocks on it. *Here* is where i showed how to do this


Really? I have Ripjaws X 2133Mhz. I can do it with those? That would be awesome I was told it wasn't possible and I believed it because... well you know. Everything on the interweb is factual.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> +1, I hope the full MB comes in copper. Also can the EK ram coolers be used on my gskill tridents with the heatsink removed?


Unfortunately not, I think Tibbor said there was a ridge on the top blocking the Monarch from installing on it properly. You have to remove the heatsink and switch it with a 3rd party one.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Really? I have Ripjaws X 2133Mhz. I can do it with those? That would be awesome I was told it wasn't possible and I believed it because... well you know. Everything on the interweb is factual.


yes really you can.. I have!! Also there is a whole thread dedicated to doing this. if you cant find it let me know I have it saved somewhere... Plus I did give what i think are good directions in my build log at the link I posted..


----------



## Ragsters

Another question guys. I bought this EK FC link so I can use the top and bottom port but I am having a really hard time screwing in the center M4 x 25 screw. I feel like it is not long enough. Anyone had the same issue?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> yes really you can.. I have!! Also there is a whole thread dedicated to doing this. if you cant find it let me know I have it saved somewhere... Plus I did give what i think are good directions in my build log at the link I posted..


Mmm mm mmm now that is TASTY! Looks like I'm spending more money. Thanks!!


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I used them on the rip jawz just have to remove the Gskill heatsink and install the EK ones then put the water blocks on it. *Here* is where i showed how to do this


Awesome you just made me buy those, the ram block and another set of my g skills to use all 4 slots.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Awesome you just made me buy those, the ram block and another set of my g skills to use all 4 slots.


Don't forget to get 2 sets of the EK heat spreaders they are *here*

*PS:* Derrick I just made you guys some more money so send me a BE motherboard block with clear top and copper block!!!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Another question guys. I bought this EK FC link so I can use the top and bottom port but I am having a really hard time screwing in the center M4 x 25 screw. I feel like it is not long enough. Anyone had the same issue?


Wait! Do I have to install the link system before installing the bridge system?


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Don't forget to get 2 sets of the EK heat spreaders they are *here*
> 
> *PS:* Derrick I just made you guys some more money so send me a BE motherboard block with clear top and copper block!!!


Is it FrozenCPU or PPC's that has the 5.5% discount for OCN?


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Is it FrozenCPU or PPC's that has the 5.5% discount for OCN?


FCPU 5.1%: 'xtreme'
PPCS 5.5%: 'ocn55'


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

My EK Nickel blocks are a little over a month old and already have corroded.


----------



## derickwm

Raffy, got your PM and responded.

LaBestiaHuman, open up a new RMA ticket at ekwb.com/support and we should be able to get that sorted for you. What else were you running in the loop?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Raffy, got your PM and responded.
> 
> LaBestiaHuman, open up a new RMA ticket at ekwb.com/support and we should be able to get that sorted for you. What else were you running in the loop?


Thanks, will get on that in a minute.

I'm running:
EK Supremacy Elite - lga2011 nickel CPU block.
EK Nickel FC Titan Blocks
Alphacool 480 Monsta - copper rad
Bits power 250 Z Tank
Distilled Water
2 drops of dead water.


----------



## NYMD

More EK goodness arriving...


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> More EK goodness arriving...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow some SWEET photos!!


----------



## Egami

Has anyone tried to fit 35X in one of these yet? EK-DDC Heatsink Housing
If not, what do you guys think are the chances of them being compatible?


----------



## SeeThruHead

I would thinkg 100% Why would they not fit?


----------



## kpoeticg

I think DazMode's youtube video said something about them being compatible with all DDC's. I could be off on that. I know EK says it's only guaranteed with their DDC"s but i think the pumps are the same size...


----------



## Egami

Thought the same but wanted to be sure.








Ah well, I just took my pump apart and comparing the pictures from EK's web shop to the thing I have in my hand it looks like a match. Time to pull the trigger.

Thanks guys!


----------



## SeeThruHead

afaik there isn't much difference from one DDC to the other, some are wired for pwm and some for different wattage. But afaik the physical characteristics of the insides are the same. The housings change, like there are multiple different tops, and a few bottoms. The origin had little flanges you could screw down, whereas the ones I see now like koolance and 35x dont have those anymore. But the ek product is actually replacing the bottom housing. and you're most likely going to be using an aftermarket top with it as well. So its just the pcb and and impeller setup that matters. I could be wrong though I haven't owned multiple different versions of the DDC pump but I haven't heard anything saying otherwise during my WC researching.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Thanks, will get on that in a minute.
> 
> I'm running:
> EK Supremacy Elite - lga2011 nickel CPU block.
> EK Nickel FC Titan Blocks
> Alphacool 480 Monsta - copper rad
> Bits power 250 Z Tank
> Distilled Water
> 2 drops of dead water.


What made you suspect corrosion and open up the blocks?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What made you suspect corrosion and open up the blocks?


IIRC Probably due to a long corrosion discussion in the ASUS RIVBE club thread last night lol. It raised a scare and concern w/ nickel. Though I'm still gonna go for the nickel EK FC Acrylic Block.


----------



## VSG

Anyone know the composition of Primochill's liquid utopia? Any idea if it, EK nickel, primochill advanced lrt clear and bitspower silver shining fittings have compatibility issues?


----------



## Terminus14

So I'm about to take my first dive into water cooling. In fact, it's my first computer build at all. But I just have one quick question.

I'm going to be cooling a 780 Ti with this EK block.

Is there any tangible cooling/performance differences between that block and this one? Or are the differences just aesthetic?


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> So I'm about to take my first dive into water cooling. In fact, it's my first computer build at all. But I just have one quick question.
> 
> I'm going to be cooling a 780 Ti with this EK block.
> 
> Is there any tangible cooling/performance differences between that block and this one? Or are the differences just aesthetic?


Pretty sure it's mostly aesthetic.
Some people, including me, like seeing their coolant flowing through their blocks.


----------



## skruffs01

Just posted/released EK waterblocks for HOF Cards -> (EK-FC780 GTX HOF for Galaxy / KFA² GTX 780 (Ti) Hall Of Fame)

Looks great, nice work


----------



## VSG

That looks like it was worth the wait for HOF owners


----------



## Pheozero

Wow, that's just... wow. Do want more acetal white blocks pls.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quick question guys. For those who installed an EK CSQ video card block did you guys put thermal paste under the thermal pads? Also do I put it under every thermal pad?


I followed the instructions and puts Gelid Extreme on both sides of the pad.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868409.pdf

See Step No. 3
Quote:


> EK recommends using small drops of electrically non-conductive (for example: EK - TIM Ectotherm, Arctic Cooling MX - 2 ™, MX - 4 ™ or GELID GC - Extreme™) thermal grease on each phase regulator (that is being covered with thermal pad) in order to even further improve the thermal performance of the EK - FC 780 GTX DCII series water block


I found it much easier to coat the pad .... especially the big one (2) than the card itself.....on the backplate, I coated the pad om one side and then coated the corresponding area on the backplate..... scraped it as thin as possible using the little squeegie thingie geld provides.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skruffs01*


What a Beauty, can wait to have these in my hand


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Wow, that's just... wow. Do want more acetal white blocks pls.


This...more white acetal is where it's at.









Daydreaming here...but a special release of 690 blocks with white acetal would be a perfect match for my build.


----------



## wermad

Not wanting to start a firestorm, but we're seeing a few reports of nickel blocks that are failing in the wc thread. These are newer CSQ and Clean blocks. Just throwing that out for the community.

I'm going to check my Ltg. CSQ blocks later today. I've been briefly running only naked di (no silver or biocide). I did ran briefly some pastel.

Derick has been very helpful with the members affected so far but I know this issue very personally and I would like to get this information out there for the community.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

I finally got my 2 EK-FC780 GTX Classy - Nickel blocks in. Can't wait to set them up and try them. They are so sexy and will look even better with orange coolant flowing through them and the rigid acrylic tubing.


----------



## PCModderMike

So rule of thumb now, with EK's nickel blocks, don't use silver?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> So I'm about to take my first dive into water cooling. In fact, it's my first computer build at all. But I just have one quick question.
> 
> I'm going to be cooling a 780 Ti with this EK block.
> 
> Is there any tangible cooling/performance differences between that block and this one? Or are the differences just aesthetic?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Pretty sure it's mostly aesthetic.
> Some people, including me, like seeing their coolant flowing through their blocks.


Actually there is a very significant difference between the various EK blocks. While the typical 3 offerings I'm speaking of are all full cover blocks, they differ on length which turns out to be very significant. For example, on the Asus 7880 DCII, there are 3 blocks offered

-Acetal Block - This is a full cover, full length block .... covers all the important stuff, extends the full length of the card and matches up and will accept screws from the backplate.
-Nickel / Acrylic Block w/ EK Circle Logo - This is a full cover, full length block .... covers all the important stuff, extends the full length of the card and matches up and will accept screws from the backplate.
-Nickel / Acrylic Clean Block (no circles) - This is a full cover, full length block .... covers all the important stuff, DOES NOT extend the full length of the card and matches up and will accept screws from all the backplate EXCEPT the last two .... you'll need to go out and buy M3 nuts as EK forgets to include them tho they are listed in the installation guide.

Looking at this provided pic

http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/main/ex-blc-1580_4.jpg

we see that the 780 Ti he was referring to there DOES NOT extend full length.

Looking at the 2nd pic Terminus provided, we see that the block does extend the full length of the card

http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/main/ex-blc-1581_2.jpg

I prefer the 'short one" as 1) it doesn't have the annoying circles, 2) you can inspect the block for accumulation of any debris and 3) it's a lot easier to fit in cases such as the Enthoo Promo where the longer block eliminates any possibility of using the reservoir mount for that case.

IIRC, terminus is using an Enthoo.....I can confirm the Asus DCII fits with the short block, haven't physically tested the 780 TI version.\ MSI's will fit at 10.35" .... Asus *says* 10.8 which is about 0.2 too long if that number is accurate. PNY, Zotac, EVGA works at 10.5


----------



## tSgt

Hehe funny all these problems with DI water and Silver Coil's.

I've been using EK nickel plated block since about 2+ years, so old and new design, with ek/mayhems(x1, aurora, pastel) coolant, without using those Silver thing and I don't have any issue so far.

Seems like DI water ans Silver might not be the best combo


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> So rule of thumb now, with EK's nickel blocks, don't use silver?


Its still very two-sided. Some say yes, others say no. From what i recall, derick said its ok w/ the new CSQ nickel process (post "EN" plating). Some ppl are reporting it w/ biocides like PT Nuke. Some knowledgeable folks say its safe while others site chemist or professionals say its not.

I'm not too concerned with bio growth and I have ran naked for a few months before so I have no plans to add silver or any biocide (ie PT Nuke) if I'm honest.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not wanting to start a firestorm, but we're seeing a few reports of nickel blocks that are failing in the wc thread. These are newer CSQ and Clean blocks. Just throwing that out for the community.
> 
> I'm going to check my Ltg. CSQ blocks later today. I've been briefly running only naked di (no silver or biocide). I did ran briefly some pastel.
> 
> Derick has been very helpful with the members affected so far but I know this issue very personally and I would like to get this information out there for the community.


\

I was SOOOOO close to going EK for my 680 Lightning, glad I went with Aqua copper. The first thing I ever learned about watercooling was to stay away from EK Nickel products. Scary TINGS MON


----------



## PCModderMike

So much for not starting a firestorm








I've used EK Nickel blocks for the past 3 years or so....even one for my old 680 Lightning..never had an issue.


----------



## Terminus14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Actually there is a very significant difference between the various EK blocks. While the typical 3 offerings I'm speaking of are all full cover blocks, they differ on length which turns out to be very significant. For example, on the Asus 7880 DCII, there are 3 blocks offered
> 
> -Acetal Block - This is a full cover, full length block .... covers all the important stuff, extends the full length of the card and matches up and will accept screws from the backplate.
> -Nickel / Acrylic Block w/ EK Circle Logo - This is a full cover, full length block .... covers all the important stuff, extends the full length of the card and matches up and will accept screws from the backplate.
> -Nickel / Acrylic Clean Block (no circles) - This is a full cover, full length block .... covers all the important stuff, DOES NOT extend the full length of the card and matches up and will accept screws from all the backplate EXCEPT the last two .... you'll need to go out and buy M3 nuts as EK forgets to include them tho they are listed in the installation guide.
> 
> Looking at this provided pic
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/main/ex-blc-1580_4.jpg
> 
> we see that the 780 Ti he was referring to there DOES NOT extend full length.
> 
> Looking at the 2nd pic Terminus provided, we see that the block does extend the full length of the card
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/main/ex-blc-1581_2.jpg
> 
> I prefer the 'short one" as 1) it doesn't have the annoying circles, 2) you can inspect the block for accumulation of any debris and 3) it's a lot easier to fit in cases such as the Enthoo Promo where the longer block eliminates any possibility of using the reservoir mount for that case.
> 
> IIRC, terminus is using an Enthoo.....I can confirm the Asus DCII fits with the short block, haven't physically tested the 780 TI version.\ MSI's will fit at 10.35" .... Asus *says* 10.8 which is about 0.2 too long if that number is accurate. PNY, Zotac, EVGA works at 10.5


You following me around, Jack? Hehe.


----------



## derickwm

Everyone,

We're keeping close watch on the nickel plating/RMAs/Support tickets to see if anything is happening lately. Anyone who has a flaking block please feel free to make an RMA request on our website, yes there have been a couple more incidents lately than the norm but for right now there aren't enough to classify it as anything more than coincidences. There's no need to start a panic wermad, or anyone else. In the meantime I'm still going to recommend that people use our EKoolant over distilled+silver but we will still honor the warranty if you are using silver.

Best,
Derick


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not wanting to start a firestorm, but we're seeing a few reports of nickel blocks that are failing in the wc thread. These are newer CSQ and Clean blocks. Just throwing that out for the community.
> 
> I'm going to check my Ltg. CSQ blocks later today. I've been briefly running only naked di (no silver or biocide). I did ran briefly some pastel.
> 
> Derick has been very helpful with the members affected so far but I know this issue very personally and I would like to get this information out there for the community.


I'd really like to get the Nickel Blocks for EK though from what we're being told it's only a few and mostly due to user error, especially in the OC thread. As we have numerous reporting in others that theirs are fine as well.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Hehe funny all these problems with DI water and Silver Coil's.
> 
> I've been using EK nickel plated block since about 2+ years, so old and new design, with ek/mayhems(x1, aurora, pastel) coolant, without using those Silver thing and I don't have any issue so far.
> 
> Seems like DI water ans Silver might not be the best combo


Once upon a time I would have disagreed with this, but the more issues I see, the more DI and Silver coil is mentioned in combination. I chose Mayhems X1 for my cooler due to this.


----------



## wermad

Popped open one of my blocks. Looks good. Some staining from the previous owners loop and some discoloration in the nickel (can be buffed/polished off) but no signs of nickel degradation


----------



## Gardnerphotos

I have nickel CPU and GPU blocks but CSQ design so hopefully wont have issues, it will be running with Mayhems pastel


----------



## King4x4

So got a very touch question... Got the rad space and got also the fan speed (Gonna have 2200 rpm fans as push pull in my case)... which rads to go for... PE or XTX?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> So got a very touch question... Got the rad space and got also the fan speed (Gonna have 2200 rpm fans as push pull in my case)... which rads to go for... PE or XTX?


Go big w/ the XTX


----------



## Ragsters

I still havent heard any comments weather good or bad about using distilled with Mayhem's biocide extreme. I mention it because that is my plan. By the way, all my blocks are going to be EK nickel plated plexi.


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Go big w/ the XTX


Thats the catch... I will be mostly going with push/pull and those PE rads have very high fpi... They will also allow me to push more rads in


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Everyone,
> 
> We're keeping close watch on the nickel plating/RMAs/Support tickets to see if anything is happening lately. Anyone who has a flaking block please feel free to make an RMA request on our website, yes there have been a couple more incidents lately than the norm but for right now there aren't enough to classify it as anything more than coincidences. There's no need to start a panic wermad, or anyone else. In the meantime *I'm still going to recommend that people use our EKoolant over distilled+silver* but we will still honor the warranty if you are using silver.
> 
> Best,
> Derick


So, just your EKoolant and nothing else added is the best recommendation?


----------



## derickwm

Yes that is my top recommendation for nickel plated blocks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Thats the catch... I will be mostly going with push/pull and those PE rads have very high fpi... They will also allow me to push more rads in


You stacking the rads in the pedestal?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Thats the catch... I will be mostly going with push/pull and those PE rads have very high fpi... They will also allow me to push more rads in


Would love to try PE myself, but its so dense Im afraid I cant stand the noise when paired with my ap15
Not sure if its even bareable at 7v


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes that is my top recommendation for nickel plated blocks.


Mayhems dye shouldn't affect it thought right, other than possibly discoloration? Looking to go red dye w/ clear tube.


----------



## wermad

Are the PEs similar to the BI GTX series?


----------



## kpoeticg

I think the PE's are like 19 FPI (38 Split)
Aren't GTX like 30 FPI?

Edit: NVM Just looked it up. BI GTX = 20FPI, so that means 40 Split I guess. Seems they'd be similar...

The thicker core of the GTX probly makes airflow a bit tighter tho. I'd imagine the PE's are somewhere between GTS and GTX


----------



## LunaP

Alright after reading up a ton on GPU cooling on CPU vs VRM, if 5-7C is that big of a difference on VRM's then I'm definitely going to have to ditch XSPC and go with EK then. Though You'd think a 8C difference on the GPU Core would help w/ something though lol.

Every site is out of the Nickel version (only has copper) except for EK's site directly though its 20$ more, guess I"ll order through there. Ebay auction ends tomorrow for the titan I'm bidding on and 2 people canceled so we'll see how that goes, may order a 3rd block.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Alright after reading up a ton on GPU cooling on CPU vs VRM, if 5-7C is that big of a difference on VRM's then I'm definitely going to have to ditch XSPC and go with EK then. Though You'd think a 8C difference on the GPU Core would help w/ something though lol.
> 
> Every site is out of the Nickel version (only has copper) except for EK's site directly though its 20$ more, guess I"ll order through there. Ebay auction ends tomorrow for the titan I'm bidding on and 2 people canceled so we'll see how that goes, may order a 3rd block.


Copper is where its at!! Do it up!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Copper is where its at!! Do it up!


Lol I'm not on that train, Nickel looks sexy! If I go copper I'm going XSPC. I found 1 person w/ Quad SLI w/ those blocks but they never posted finished pics lol and they stopped logging in. Either burned their house down or got busy lol.


----------



## hotrod717

Any updates on availability of RIVE-BE block?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Lol I'm not on that train, Nickel looks sexy! If I go copper I'm going XSPC. I found 1 person w/ Quad SLI w/ those blocks but they never posted finished pics lol and they stopped logging in. Either burned their house down or got busy lol.


Lol well to each their own! Just make sure you do some research on the correct fluids to use and to not use silver. Nickel can degrade under some circumstances (most people have no problems). I personally like having a full copper loop.


----------



## gdubc

Just recently received an order for a mvi gene/hero chipset block. I also got some 3/8 x 5/8 chain gun fittings for another build and thought I would see if they work on the hero block, and they do not. Barely. (wouldn't fit my mips mvf chipset block either now I have to find something to somewhat match the chain guns on the rest of the build) They did work for any of the ports on the res x3 though. Just letting anyone out there know ahead of time. On a related note, does anyone out there have a supremacy block not installed? I would like to know how much clearance there is between the ports. It looks to be around 12.5mm on the gene/hero chipset block.


----------



## erayser

I know this is a pretty dumb question, but just wanted to verify because I'm anal like that.










Because of my tri-sli cards, I'm limited to using the in/out ports circled in red. The pictures I've seen in EK's instructions show it using the 2 ports I'm not planning to use. Also, since it's mounted, and I'll have a 240 rad below... I won't be able to get to the variable speed adjustments easily on the pumps. I have them set to max... but just wondering what fixed settings people would use on dual variable pumps.


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Any updates on availability of RIVE-BE block?


+1 I want full copper with black acetal!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I know this is a pretty dumb question, but just wanted to verify because I'm anal like that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of my tri-sli cards, I'm limited to using the in/out ports circled in red. The pictures I've seen in EK's instructions show it using the 2 ports I'm not planning to use. Also, since it's mounted, and I'll have a 240 rad below... I won't be able to get to the variable speed adjustments easily on the pumps. I have them set to max... but just wondering what fixed settings people would use on dual variable pumps.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have mine set for 5 put they are controlled by a AQ6 so this dont really help you. But I have 3 dual pump tops like you have using the aquacomputer D5's and at full speed I could not really hear them. But I do have dampeners on both sides of the mount also..


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> +1 I want full copper with black acetal!


Mehhh I'm still waiting for a copper + acetal block for my MVE! Me first me first!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Any updates on availability of RIVE-BE block?


It's in manufacturing.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's in manufacturing.










Great timing. By the time I get my mobo, cpu, and bench test them, this will hopefully be available.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's in manufacturing.


No copper MVE block??








Too bad MIPS is dead. Now I'll never get a copper block for my precious baby MVE









But MOMMM, I DONT WANT nickel!!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's in manufacturing.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I know this is a pretty dumb question, but just wanted to verify because I'm anal like that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of my tri-sli cards, I'm limited to using the in/out ports circled in red. The pictures I've seen in EK's instructions show it using the 2 ports I'm not planning to use. Also, since it's mounted, and I'll have a 240 rad below... I won't be able to get to the variable speed adjustments easily on the pumps. I have them set to max... but just wondering what fixed settings people would use on dual variable pumps.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Without knowing the full picture of exactly what components you are pumping through. I have dual D5's and setting 3 to 4 'should' be plenty. Nothing beats having an actual flow meter though.

You really should use the return port on the res itself, otherwise it is not truly part of the loop.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its still very two-sided. Some say yes, others say no. From what i recall, derick said its ok w/ the new CSQ nickel process (post "EN" plating). Some ppl are reporting it w/ biocides like PT Nuke. Some knowledgeable folks say its safe while others site chemist or professionals say its not.
> 
> I'm not too concerned with bio growth and I have ran naked for a few months before so I have no plans to add silver or any biocide (ie PT Nuke) if I'm honest.


I am on the side of saying "No" to silver when using nickle blocks in your loop.

In order to avoid problems, one should use metals that have a Galvanic Anodic Index that is within 0.15V of each other so there is no interaction. Higher differences can be tolerated (from 0.25V to a max of 0.50V, but those are under very controlled situations of temperature, humidity, alkalinity, etc. not something that I would call to be available in most water cooling loops.)

Bass has a AI of -0.40 (common in some radiators)
Copper has an AI of -0.35 (most commonly used)
Nickel has an AI of -0.30 (getting more and more common in blocks)
Silver has an AI of -0.15

No matter how you look at it, putting silver in your loop is going to be from 0.15V to 0.25V difference depending on all your other parts (most of the time there will be a 0.20V, since copper is very common). That is never a "good idea" in my opinion. That is why I use biocide additives or coolants with a biocide already in it.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion#Galvanic_compatibility


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> *Bass* has a AI of -0.40 (common in some radiators)
> Copper has an AI of -0.35 (most commonly used)
> Nickel has an AI of -0.30 (getting more and more common in blocks)
> Silver has an AI of -0.15


Now that explains why I got these coming out when I drained my loop.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Doh! Busted by my own typo.









Oh well, if you have BASS in your water loop, I dare say that you are in serious need of an "anti-biologic" in your loop.


----------



## Egami

Haha. Guess there goes the plan for the build featuring fish tank res and plumbing stolen from the nearby construction yard.







Not combatible with biocide.









What happened to the clear EK coolant btw? Noticed it vanished last night.


----------



## defiler2k

I have to admit I have not had a single problem with Nickel and Silver with my EK blocks. I had more issues using biocide like dead water and the crap coming out of the radiators. I had some Koolance QDC fittings ruined by a weird reaction from the biocide. I recently sold my GTX770 blocks after running in different setups (DI+Biocide, Mayhem Coolant, DI + Silver) and out of all of the different configurations the only one that has yielded consistent results in cooling (no degradation) and no staining or gunking my blocks was with DI + Silver. When I pulled the blocks to clean they had nothing, no stains, no gunk in the fins or anything else. Thats why Im getting Nickel blocks for my TI's and Im sticking with silver and DI because for my setup, it seems to be the most problem free. For what is worth I followed the advice of a member and put the coil between the fittings in a line before the loop return after the blocks. This helps in making sure the fluid is coming in to good contact with the material and if there is something that will affect my blocks it has to go through a rad/res/pump and another rad before it hits the blocks.


----------



## wermad

I bought a "first gen" CSQ acetal/nickel "crop circle" verson (to match my Lightning blocks). I've seen a few ppl who did not get J4 with their CSQ kits. Not sure if J4 was initiated when "Clean" was launched or right before and so some of the later CSQ got them. Though their earlier one's didn't.

I'm not gonna gripe over a C tbh







.


----------



## RAFFY

How does this look to you guys? All I have done is take it out of the OEM packaging and I have only touched the black metal.



























Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I bought a "first gen" CSQ acetal/nickel "crop circle" verson (to match my Lightning blocks). I've seen a few ppl who did not get J4 with their CSQ kits. Not sure if J4 was initiated when "Clean" was launched or right before and so some of the later CSQ got them. Though their earlier one's didn't.
> 
> I'm not gonna gripe over a C tbh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


This is how I look at it. First, if I was suppose to receive the 4 plates with my water block then I want them. Secondly, I have invested a lot of money in to my new computers water cooling and I want the best possible performance.


----------



## wermad

You can probably polished and buff it out. If you're not happy w/ it, contact the seller for a possible exchange. I've had blocks from many makes and some (including the immaculate HeatKillers) will have some light scratches.


----------



## hotrod717

^ Yeah that doesn't look that great coming out of a brand new sealed package. Someone must of taken their glasses off to rub their tired eyes when that went through QC.


----------



## gdubc

I recently received an order for some watercooling goodies. I ordered a ddc 3.2 pwm pump with clear x top csq, but received the black acetal version instead. I am wondering however, would I be better off just adding the clear plexi x top rev. 2 instead of returning/exchanging?


----------



## MillerLite1314

I was thinking about investing in the H3O 240 kit from EK after the new year. Any thoughts on it?
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-h3o-240-hfx.html


----------



## derickwm

Raffy; contact the retailer where you purchased it. The block should look like this:










For those asking about the J4 plate, if you did not receive one we give these away for free in our webshop, check your retailers they may have some for free as well.

Gdubc, if you contact your retailer they should be able to sort that right away.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> How does this look to you guys? All I have done is take it out of the OEM packaging and I have only touched the black metal.


Mine was a bit marked up out of the package but not that bad. Try buffing it out first; almost all of the marks on mine buffed out easily.


----------



## Razor 116

Does anyone use EK premixed coolant, I'm using the clear coolant, but after 1 month my tubing has a slight green tint. The tubing is PrimoChill Advanced LRT so it's unlikely to be plasticizer leeching. The EK coolant has Biocides which are supposed to stop/delay the growth of algae but after only 1 month?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razor 116*
> 
> Does anyone use EK premixed coolant, I'm using the clear coolant, but after 1 month my tubing has a slight green tint. The tubing is PrimoChill Advanced LRT so it's unlikely to be plasticizer leeching. The EK coolant has Biocides which are supposed to stop/delay the growth of algae but after only 1 month?


Damn that sounds like Algae







Wonder how that happened? Just finished taking apart and cleaning everything in my monstrous loop because of that damned algae!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Gdubc, if you contact your retailer they should be able to sort that right away.


The retailer was apologetic and willing to cross ship my replacement, but what I am wondering is if the v2 top would be better than the one that comes with it from the factory. If so I would just get that instead and switch the tops and not have to return this pump. Thanks to anyone that can help tell me the difference!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Does the No.4 jet plate come with the full copper Supremacy Clean CSQ? I may be having a blonde moment but I do not see them in the box.


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19628/ex-blc-1442/EK_Supremacy_Universal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clean_Plexi_EK-Supremacy_Clean_CSQ.html

Takes you to the universal EK install guide

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990808.pdf


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

EK RMA is ot going smooth, I can't even contact EK directly since I didn't purchased from them. FrozenCPU said they would replace my nickel block with a copper one, but just the metal part, I will need to swap tops. I agreed thinking it will be a faster method, turns out I still gotta wait for EK to ship them one, which will take a couple weeks, then they will ship it to me. Why can't I just get new units? My blocks are barely over a month old. Geez!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razor 116*
> 
> Does anyone use EK premixed coolant, I'm using the clear coolant, but after 1 month my tubing has a slight green tint. The tubing is PrimoChill Advanced LRT so it's unlikely to be plasticizer leeching. The EK coolant has Biocides which are supposed to stop/delay the growth of algae but after only 1 month?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Damn that sounds like Algae


Because it's green? Green tint can be many things.

Drain coolant into a glass container. If it smells it's indeed biological something.

If it doesn't smell then it's some kind of reaction with the inside wall of the tubing and free metal ions, possibly you've had something in the loop that didn't wash out completely (possibly from factory).

Test: let the inside of the tubing dry out and then take a *dry* q-tip and scrape the inside of the tube - does it come out blue?


----------



## defiler2k

@derickwm What do you recommend for cleaning the contact point of the copper blocks? My copper supremacy is stained with the thermal compound I used and I would like to get it back to its shiny coppery glory before I mount my new 4770K on direct die.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Because it's green? Green tint can be many things.
> 
> Drain coolant into a glass container. If it smells it's indeed biological something.
> 
> If it doesn't smell then it's some kind of reaction with the inside wall of the tubing and free metal ions, possibly you've had something in the loop that didn't wash out completely (possibly from factory).
> 
> Test: let the inside of the tubing dry out and then take a *dry* q-tip and scrape the inside of the tube - does it come out blue?


Never said it was.. just that it sounded like it could be Algae. Was a short time running though especially while running biocides.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I recently received an order for some watercooling goodies. I ordered a ddc 3.2 pwm pump with clear x top csq, but received the black acetal version instead. I am wondering however, would I be better off just adding the clear plexi x top rev. 2 instead of returning/exchanging?


After my experience with last build, I will never use a block tha I can't see inside..... I had thoroughly flushed all my components .... I'm talking 5 gpm with alternating hot and cold water for like 30 minutes each. When assembling the build with acrylic, it required several rounds of assembly / disassembly as I measured and cut tubes only to find it was a mm too long or whatever. After 4 - 5 days on distilled water, I observed some black **** clogging the micro-channels on the CPU WB which I never would have seen had I had a copper top as I originally planned. I surmise that these black flecks were either from pump break in or from screwing / unscrewing fittings into pump (Black Plastic / Acetal), radiators (black paint), Bitspower fittings (Matte Black paint) etc which had rubbed off during assembly / disassembly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> yes it came with 4 and instructions said to use the J4 that was .7 mm thick so I measured using a caliber.
> 
> and this one was the closest to 7 mm I found


I never wuda noticed except my CPU WB came only w/ 3 plastic washers ..... frozencpu graciously offered to send me a replacement for the missing one but instructions said they were 0.7 and FCPU's EK replacements were 0.8 ..... So I measured the other 3 and they came in at (fading memory) at something like 0.83, 0.89 and 0.94. So I asked them to send me "4 of same thickness" and that's what I got....4 x 0.8 .... hoping that it still provides teh recommended clamping force with the thicker washers but at least they all even.

I wuda used a caliber for measurement but I don't like guns

>imagined jet plate w/ bullet hole in it when I read ya post<
.

.... so I used a caliper instead to measure mine









.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Was my EK 7970 nickel plexi block supposed to come with a phillips screw driver? Well it didn't.


No. EK's blocks don't come with screw drivers.


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Raffy; contact the retailer where you purchased it. The block should look like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those asking about the J4 plate, if you did not receive one we give these away for free in our webshop, check your retailers they may have some for free as well.
> 
> Gdubc, if you contact your retailer they should be able to sort that right away.


I'll contact them today and see what they say.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> EK RMA is ot going smooth, I can't even contact EK directly since I didn't purchased from them. FrozenCPU said they would replace my nickel block with a copper one, but just the metal part, I will need to swap tops. I agreed thinking it will be a faster method, turns out I still gotta wait for EK to ship them one, which will take a couple weeks, then they will ship it to me. Why can't I just get new units? My blocks are barely over a month old. Geez!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I thought that FrozenCPU was an authorized re-seller, if they are you should be able to work through EK directly for an RMA, I have done so in the past and it has been great.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> No. EK's blocks don't come with screw drivers.


Really? I only mentioned it because that is what the instructions say.

Edit: Maybe I was tired when I read it the first time or maybe my instructions are different thann online but I cant find where I read that now. I guess ill look when I get home.


----------



## Razor 116

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Because it's green? Green tint can be many things.
> 
> Drain coolant into a glass container. If it smells it's indeed biological something.
> 
> If it doesn't smell then it's some kind of reaction with the inside wall of the tubing and free metal ions, possibly you've had something in the loop that didn't wash out completely (possibly from factory).
> 
> Test: let the inside of the tubing dry out and then take a *dry* q-tip and scrape the inside of the tube - does it come out blue?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Never said it was.. just that it sounded like it could be Algae. Was a short time running though especially while running biocides.


I guess I'll be draining my loop then, It's been only a month since I assemble the loop. I assumed algae wouldn't be a problem because the EK coolant had biocides. My res is clear though, no tint at all although I assume this is because of the turbulence that would prohibit growth.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Really? I only mentioned it because that is what the instructions say.
> 
> Edit: Maybe I was tired when I read it the first time or maybe my instructions are different thann online but I cant find where I read that now. I guess ill look when I get home.


The instructions say you need one, but don't include one. Considering people usually have a phillips screwdriver in home.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> No. EK's blocks don't come with screw drivers.


Can you answer this for me? In the instructions for the ek 7970 csq block is says to cut the 1mm thermal pad 16mm x 16mm for the little chip on the top left (I/O VRM). I thought that was way too big and ended up using something closer to a third of that size. Whats up with that?


----------



## Egami

EK, you sexy thing!

















And an endless sea of fittings


----------



## wermad

Step one: remove frost from blocks.
Step two: Its now sexy









Sweet looking gear there


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Step one: remove frost from blocks.
> Step two: Its now sexy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet looking gear there


Thanks Wermad!

Was actually planning on polishing them but getting second thoughts now... What do you think? They're supposed to go there with some clear coolant.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

VERY NICE!

I love the insert. I will be doing that on my current build.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Thanks Wermad!
> 
> Was actually planning on polishing them but getting second thoughts now... What do you think? They're supposed to go there with some clear coolant.


Keep the frost!!!!!! Some nice white BP fittings would go in there nicely too


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> VERY NICE!
> 
> I love the insert. I will be doing that on my current build.


Insert? Why does it immediately make me think of a butt plug?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Keep the frost!!!!!! Some nice white BP fittings would go in there nicely too


Wermad talking heresy! That goes into sig quote so right now!!!









Bp sadly doesn't make two of the most critical bits in white so was forced to roll with silver/nickel/whatchamacallitshinystuff.



Because this is the EK thread and it needs more pictures!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> No. EK's blocks don't come with screw drivers.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you answer this for me? In the instructions for the ek 7970 csq block is says to cut the 1mm thermal pad 16mm x 16mm for the little chip on the top left (I/O VRM). I thought that was way too big and ended up using something closer to a third of that size. Whats up with that?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't know. Never had experience with that block or that card.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Step one: remove frost from blocks.
> Step two: Its now sexy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet looking gear there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Wermad!
> 
> Was actually planning on polishing them but getting second thoughts now... What do you think? They're supposed to go there with some clear coolant.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Wow, super clean.


----------



## BradleyW

Hey folk's. Is it normal for a pump to be noisy during bleeding process? I have EK D5 Vario. Cheers.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey folk's. Is it normal for a pump to be noisy during bleeding process? I have EK D5 Vario. Cheers.


D5's can be a bit noisy if there is air in the coolant. That is why it is a good practice to bleed in batches, to let the coolant settle. If you see your res with a lot of bubbles (like if you shake a bottle with water) in the fluid then those bubbles are causing your noise. Otherwise its a bad mount or a bad pump.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> D5's can be a bit noisy if there is air in the coolant. That is why it is a good practice to bleed in batches, to let the coolant settle. If you see your res with a lot of bubbles (like if you shake a bottle with water) in the fluid then those bubbles are causing your noise. Otherwise its a bad mount or a bad pump.


What do you mean by bleed in batches? Thank you.


----------



## defiler2k

Sorry, I meant in waves to allow time for the coolant to settle. Specially after you initially fill the loop the coolant is going to pickup a lot of bubbles and those bubbles will be sucked in by the pump which causes noise and extends your bleed time. What I do is run for a couple of minutes (making sure my loop is full and the pump wont run dry if I leave unattended). Shut down for a few minutes until I see the coolant settle in the rest and turn on again. Once I dont hear air noise in the pump I just let it run for a while to bleed the rest of the loop.


----------



## BradleyW

I understand now, thank you.
I guess any pump can be loud when it is dealing with air. When I watch people on youtube filling their loops, the pump is terribly loud, but once filled and bled, it is silent (D5 mostly).
+1


----------



## wermad

If possible, hook it up to a controller and drop the voltage right before it cuts out. it helps purge any pockets trapped right at the impeller. Also, you don't have to pull the pump to change the speed (if its not easily accessible). At setting four, I cold drop the voltage to around ~60% before the pump would stop.

I find that if you stop the pump and start it up again, quickly, it will force large bubbles/pockets out due to the back flow. Mind you keep an eye on that back flow at the res


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> EK, you sexy thing!


Definitely polish the crap out of them.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Insert? Why does it immediately make me think of a butt plug?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wermad talking heresy! That goes into sig quote so right now!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bp sadly doesn't make two of the most critical bits in white so was forced to roll with silver/nickel/whatchamacallitshinystuff.
> 
> 
> 
> Because this is the EK thread and it needs more pictures!


That is sexy !

that cabling job took a heck of your time I guess?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> EK RMA is ot going smooth, I can't even contact EK directly since I didn't purchased from them. FrozenCPU said they would replace my nickel block with a copper one, but just the metal part, I will need to swap tops. I agreed thinking it will be a faster method, turns out I still gotta wait for EK to ship them one, which will take a couple weeks, then they will ship it to me. Why can't I just get new units?


Please note, this is not EK RMA issue, this is FrozenCPU RMA (potential) issue. I am sure they will replace that unit for you in no time. They handle things with end customers, we handle things with them. It's that simple. Otherwise there's no point in having authorized resellers.

@Egami: Great looking pics!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Definitely polish the crap out of them.


your ek blocks have crap in them?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> your ek blocks have crap in them?












Late night shinanigans


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Late night shinanigans


i watched that movie for like the 45056403539th time yesterday while waiting on my new gpu to come in actually














lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i watched that movie for like the 45056403539th time yesterday while waiting on my new gpu to come in actually
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol.


Lol










Did you fire up your IB-E rig yet? I'm wondering if turning my Supremacy 90° is worth the extra degree









Got plenty of down time myself waiting for my Monarch plates to come in and ship, Extreme11 block to be made, and hexacore shipped


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you fire up your IB-E rig yet? I'm wondering if turning my Supremacy 90° is worth the extra degree
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got plenty of down time myself waiting for my Monarch plates to come in and ship, Extreme11 block to be made, and hexacore shipped


havent gotten it set up yet, waiting to switch it out till wednesday most likely, got some parts for the sth10 coming wed so figured ill just move everything to that when they get in


----------



## tiborrr12

Also guys, this is confirmed by EVGA engineer that actually did the circuit board design, Ilya:
http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1283

Their own block doesn't fit, hehe. We will however need a new backplate. Soon™


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Also guys, this is confirmed by EVGA engineer that actually did the circuit board design, Ilya:
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1283
> 
> Their own block doesn't fit, hehe. We will however need a new backplate. Soon™


New backplate









Btw: Ya'll gonna release em compression acrylic fittings?


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Wow, super clean.


Thanks Mike, one tries








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Definitely polish the crap out of them.


But... but... I wanna but I don't.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> That is sexy !
> 
> that cabling job took a heck of your time I guess?


A lazy weekend for the cables. The backplate on the other hand was the real pain to make.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Please note, this is not EK RMA issue, this is FrozenCPU RMA (potential) issue. I am sure they will replace that unit for you in no time. They handle things with end customers, we handle things with them. It's that simple. Otherwise there's no point in having authorized resellers.
> 
> @Egami: Great looking pics!


Thanks Tiborrr!


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Thanks Wermad!
> 
> Was actually planning on polishing them but getting second thoughts now..


Don't!
I think the frost fits beautifully in your build.
If you dislike it you can always polish but never unpolish.
Great job so far


----------



## BradleyW

Hey all, I just got the EK D5 Vario X TOP CSQ pump. Take a look at the image. Is this normal? There are 4 silver parts out of the 7 holes. They seem to be balanced in pairs. 3 holes remain without any noticeable silver.


thank you.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey all, I just got the EK D5 Vario X TOP CSQ pump. Take a look at the image. Is this normal? There are 4 silver parts out of the 7 holes. They seem to be balanced in pairs. 3 holes remain without any noticeable silver.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thank you.


I was just talking about this the other day.
http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/54710#post_21372520

That is why you will find each one is different. One of my pumps has weights all on one side only. Its just like car wheels need weights placed in different places on their rims.

Also: Those clear pump tops look better than I thought they might.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I was just talking about this the other day.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/54710#post_21372520
> 
> That is why you will find each one is different. One of my pumps has weights all on one side only. Its just like car wheels need weights placed in different places on their rims.
> 
> Also: Those clear pump tops look better than I thought they might.


So it is normal I take it? Does every D5 have this weight method? Or have EK optimized the weight position?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yeah its normal. EK don't make the pumps, all D5's have the same thing. Each individual impeller needs a slightly different weight position for balance is all.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah its normal. EK don't make the pumps, all D5's have the same thing. Each individual impeller needs a slightly different weight position for balance is all.


Phew. Good. Yeah Ek did not make the pump, but I just thought maybe they have changed the weight positions.








Well, my new loop looks mostly good. Only mostly because one of the rads is damaged. If you shake it, it sounds like the insides is broken in two!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Ahhh, sounds like you got one of the notorious rattly Alphacool rads. I have one too and it works just fine so it is nothing to really worry about.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Ahhh, sounds like you got one of the notorious rattly Alphacool rads. I have one too and it works just fine so it is nothing to really worry about.


Sorry, it's a Phobya G Charger V2 420mm (60mm thick). It sounds bad when you tip it or shake it.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Sorry, it's a Phobya G Charger V2 420mm (60mm thick). It sounds bad when you tip it or shake it.


g changer is the same rad with a different name and two less ports


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yeah they are made in the same factory and are almost identical.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah they are made in the same factory and are almost identical.


That's interesting.
So what's the direct cause of this noise? It sounds very strange.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I don't know that anyone has actually cut one open to find out, but I would assume it can only really be left over solder and flux from the manufacturing process. There are several threads that may have more info if you want. Or goggle 'Alphacool rattling'
It was so common that one of the American online water cooling retailers was refusing to RMA them, they would only replace it with a different brand so that they didn't have to keep replacing one rad for another one with the same problem


----------



## BradleyW

It sounded like the whole rad has a problem as oppose to a section containing flux. What's the performance difference? Can flex ever flow into the tubing and into a block despite multiple flushes?

Thank you.


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you fire up your IB-E rig yet? I'm wondering if turning my Supremacy 90° is worth the extra degree
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got plenty of down time myself waiting for my Monarch plates to come in and ship, Extreme11 block to be made, and hexacore shipped


So instead of having the silver EK emblem in the bottom right hand corner you are saying turn it 90 have the EK emblem located in the top right hand corner?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> So instead of having the silver EK emblem in the bottom right hand corner you are saying turn it 90 have the EK emblem located in the top right hand corner?


Like this .... as shown in the water block roundup
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup



or....EK Silver Logo in lower left works just as well ....important only that holes are vertical.


----------



## BradleyW

I figured out the rad noise. It was out it's the rad screw guard that wobbles a tiny tiny bit.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> New backplate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw: Ya'll gonna release em compression acrylic fittings?


You know that you can't really compress acrylic? Once you do you're usually left panicking and looking for paper towels.

Compression fitting for solid, non-elastic tubing is the worst idea ever. Compression fitting would only work with acrylic tube with flanges on the ends and that's practically impossible.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> You know that you can't really compress acrylic? Once you do you're usually left panicking and looking for paper towels.
> 
> Compression fitting for solid, non-elastic tubing is the worst idea ever. Compression fitting would only work with acrylic tube with flanges on the ends and that's practically impossible.


Don't tell Primo-Chill







.... that's their "big thing" .... you don't compress the acrylic, you compress the O-Ring .... just like the EK Water Blocks do when ya re-assemble the acrylic / plexi top after installing jet plate

This is their line of compression fittings made specifically for their acrylic tube

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c633/s2021/list/p1/b46/PrimoChill-Tubing_-_Rigid_Acrylic-12_OD_Rigid_Compression-Page1.html

http://www.primochill.com/product-category/fittings/compression/


----------



## HardwareDecoder

in


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> So instead of having the silver EK emblem in the bottom right hand corner you are saying turn it 90 have the EK emblem located in the top right hand corner?


Stren did a huge cpu block review using LGA2011 (hexacore). One interesting point was that the Sumpremacy (and a few other blocks) turned 90° would give you a slight decrease in temps. I'm going to put it which ever way is easiest to plumb it since you're looking about a degree of difference tbh.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> You know that you can't really compress acrylic? Once you do you're usually left panicking and looking for paper towels.
> 
> Compression fitting for solid, non-elastic tubing is the worst idea ever. Compression fitting would only work with acrylic tube with flanges on the ends and that's practically impossible.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Don't tell Primo-Chill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... that's their "big thing" .... you don't compress the acrylic, you compress the O-Ring .... just like the EK Water Blocks do when ya re-assemble the acrylic / plexi top after installing jet plate
> 
> This is their line of compression fittings made specifically for their acrylic tube
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c633/s2021/list/p1/b46/PrimoChill-Tubing_-_Rigid_Acrylic-12_OD_Rigid_Compression-Page1.html
> 
> http://www.primochill.com/product-category/fittings/compression/
Click to expand...

This and this:



http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/compression-fitting-for-metalacrylic-tubing

Someone needs to brush up on their company's products and proposals


----------



## tiborrr12

Yes, but this is fairly useless (at least if you ask me). It was designed before we introduced EK-HD Adapters, which was almost the same functionality at half the cost.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I recently received an order for some watercooling goodies. I ordered a ddc 3.2 pwm pump with clear x top csq, but received the black acetal version instead. I am wondering however, would I be better off just adding the clear plexi x top rev. 2 instead of returning/exchanging?


Can you help me with this, tiborr?


----------



## tiborrr12

If you were shipped the wrong item you need to contact us/the reseller and let them know. We will send you the correct part if it was indeed our mistake. There's no need for you to pay extra!


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Like this .... as shown in the water block roundup
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup
> 
> 
> 
> or....EK Silver Logo in lower left works just as well ....important only that holes are vertical.


Thank you for the information +rep!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Stren did a huge cpu block review using LGA2011 (hexacore). One interesting point was that the Sumpremacy (and a few other blocks) turned 90° would give you a slight decrease in temps. I'm going to put it which ever way is easiest to plumb it since you're looking about a degree of difference tbh.
> This and this:
> 
> 
> 
> http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/compression-fitting-for-metalacrylic-tubing
> 
> Someone needs to brush up on their company's products and proposals


Can you shoot me a link to this review please.


----------



## BradleyW

I got my EK CPU water block. It is the Supremacy Clean CSQ Copper Acetal for 2011 socket. It came with a bench of stuff including 3x metal plates. It looks like those changable razor blades. What do I use them for?


----------



## tiborrr12

Read the manual, Bradley. Each jet is optimized for specific socket.

Also, this should be a good read:
- stren's review: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2012/11/09/2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/
- Moonman's review: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Read the manual, Bradley. Each jet is optimized for specific socket.
> 
> Also, this should be a good read:
> - stren's review: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2012/11/09/2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/
> - Moonman's review: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup


I would if I had the block with me atm.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Read the manual, Bradley.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I would if I had the block with me atm.


Available online







http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990815.pdf


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> If you were shipped the wrong item you need to contact us/the reseller and let them know. We will send you the correct part if it was indeed our mistake. There's no need for you to pay extra!


I contacted them and they are willing and sent the shipping lable, but I am thinking of getting another pump anyhow for another build and like the black also, so it would just save cross shipping also and I would work it out with them. Mostly I just am wondering about the differences in the tops and if they are worth adding?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Can you shoot me a link to this review please.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Read the manual, Bradley. Each jet is optimized for specific socket.
> 
> Also, this should be a good read:
> - stren's review: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2012/11/09/2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/
> - Moonman's review: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup
Click to expand...

Tiborr got it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I got my EK CPU water block. It is the Supremacy Clean CSQ Copper Acetal for 2011 socket. It came with a bench of stuff including 3x metal plates. It looks like those changable razor blades. What do I use them for?


Brad, mine only came w/ three jet plates and the instructions say to use #3. You got a newer kit w/ four and the recommend plate is #4 from what i been told. Its easy to pop open the block to replace the plates. Just make sure you look for the subtle difference (disign, thickness) to identify the plate. From my kit, J3 looks like a razor blade and its the thinnest in my kit (0.7mm).


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I got my EK CPU water block. It is the Supremacy Clean CSQ Copper Acetal for 2011 socket. It came with a bench of stuff including 3x metal plates. It looks like those changable razor blades. What do I use them for?


Read the Installation guide (Step 2) .... should be one in the box and a link on the product page where ya bought it.....



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19628/ex-blc-1442/EK_Supremacy_Universal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clean_Plexi_EK-Supremacy_Clean_CSQ.html?tl=c603s1907b133

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990808.pdf

Also .... I'd check and make sure that ya plastic mounting washers are the same thickness....mine were 0.83, 0.89 and 0.94 and one was MIA whereas instructions say 0.70 .... I got 4 replacements from FCPU @ 0.80.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tiborr got it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brad, mine only came w/ three jet plates and the instructions say to use #3. You got a newer kit w/ four and the recommend plate is #4 from what i been told. Its easy to pop open the block to replace the plates. Just make sure you look for the subtle difference (disign, thickness) to identify the plate. From my kit, J3 looks like a razor blade and its the thinnest in my kit (0.7mm).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Read the Installation guide (Step 2) .... should be one in the box and a link on the product page where ya bought it.....
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19628/ex-blc-1442/EK_Supremacy_Universal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clean_Plexi_EK-Supremacy_Clean_CSQ.html?tl=c603s1907b133
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990808.pdf
> 
> Also .... I'd check and make sure that ya plastic mounting washers are the same thickness....mine were 0.83, 0.89 and 0.94 and one was MIA whereas instructions say 0.70 .... I got 4 replacements from FCPU @ 0.80.


Thanks all. I will look into this on the block tomorrow.


----------



## tiborrr12

Stop making such fuss about them washers, guys.







These are 0.7-0.8mm, depending on the tolerance since they are injection molded. They will all compress down to the same height after first installation.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Don't!
> I think the frost fits beautifully in your build.
> *If you dislike it you can always polish but never unpolish.*
> Great job so far


This. Will do a test fitting and snap some picks tomorrow.


----------



## szeged

you can get some frosted finish from some stores and re frost it


----------



## solar0987

Figured this would be the best place to post. I have a ek supreme hf square design. Im looking for a clear top for it.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> you can get some frosted finish from some stores and re frost it


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Don't!
> I think the frost fits beautifully in your build.
> If you dislike it you can always polish but *never unpolish*.
> Great job so far


Sure you can. Use more abrasive sandpaper.


----------



## fast_fate

Make your own frosting


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Make your own frosting


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I got my EK CPU water block. It is the Supremacy Clean CSQ Copper Acetal for 2011 socket. It came with a bench of stuff including 3x metal plates. It looks like those changable razor blades. What do I use them for?


Dude what if I had frosted blocks with a pure butter loop? What kind of heat distribution properties does butter hold?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Stop making such fuss about them washers, guys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are 0.7-0.8mm, depending on the tolerance since they are injection molded. They will all compress down to the same height after first installation.


They didn't on my install .... the measurements were different before I put them in and after I took them out..... I installed the block so I could continue cutting tubing while waiting for replacements to arrive.

Replacements were all identical.


----------



## gdubc

So, are the differences between the x top and the x top v2 really just a mystery? Any time I ask, all I get is crickets.....


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> So, are the differences between the x top and the x top v2 really just a mystery? Any time I ask, all I get is crickets.....


X-TOP vs X-TOP V2? The internal volutes are different. I believe there were some reviews out there that shown performance differences. But other than that you're talking about 7 and 5 years old product


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> X-TOP vs X-TOP V2? The internal volutes are different. I believe there were some reviews out there that shown performance differences. But other than that you're talking about 7 and 5 years old product


Thanks! I looked a little but the topic is immune to my google fu. I found only one article. Just wanted to know before I decided about the other pump and all, and I wanted to get it worked out with the retailer quickly.

P.S. 5-7 years old, but its whats out there. Any plans for an update?


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Thanks! I looked a little but the topic is immune to my google fu. I found only one article. Just wanted to know before I decided about the other pump and all, and I wanted to get it worked out with the retailer quickly.
> 
> P.S. 5-7 years old, but its whats out there. Any plans for an update?


If it is not broken, do not fix it


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> So, are the differences between the x top and the x top v2 really just a mystery? Any time I ask, all I get is crickets.....


The X-top V2 is an older model than the current x-top CSQ models.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The X-top V2 is an older model than the current x-top CSQ models.


Thanks for helping a noob! I am setting up my first loop(s) & havent been following the industry for the last 5-7 years so that is the simple thing that I wanted to know. I could only find one article about that v2 and it was claimed as the best, but yet I see them nowhere in use so I figured something was better with the newer csq ones or the v2 would be everywhere.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=27441

this is the cylinder for this res http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_659&products_id=35998 ?


----------



## saer

Any update on the EK blocks for RIVBE ?


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Any update on the EK blocks for RIVBE ?


Yeah, a few days ago one of the EK guys posted saying they are in production. No further details. I just hope they are copper. I'd love an ETA because if these blocks are coming out soon then I'll postpone assembling my new rig.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=27441
> 
> this is the cylinder for this res http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_659&products_id=35998 ?


can any of you help me confirm?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> can any of you help me confirm?


No, multioption and X3 series are not compatible. One is 50mm and one is 60mm

X3 tubes fit X3 reservoirs

eg.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=39166


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No, multioption and X3 series are not compatible. One is 50mm and one is 60mm
> 
> X3 tubes fit X3 reservoirs
> 
> eg.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=39166


Didn't even catch on, has just browsed over, glad I asked









http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=37675

nevermind on that one lol they have the small one, the extra large one but not the replacement for the 250








ordering from 2 websites will be a bummer, double shipping will make it not worth


----------



## snef

White block for gtx780 hof are on order

My theme is white and gold

I want to change all screws on block for gold one

Any EK rep or anyone can tel me what is size of screws on EK Gpu block?

M3, M4 or M5. And lenght ?

Thanks


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Any update on the EK blocks for RIVBE ?


Thank goodness someone else asked. Being in production, thought it would only be a couple days until it was unveiled. Still waiting. Received the board and CPU should arrive later this week. Just hope i can get one close to new year. Will the RIVE block set fit the RIVE-BE mobo? Hopefully the newer set will feature an active chipset cooler instead of a standard piece of aluminum.


----------



## szeged

well " being in production" can mean so many different things, the time it takes to get it ready to unveil could be a long wait, or a day or hours, depends on the size of the team working on it i guess, and in EK's case, they arent exactly the largest in the world







give it time, im sure we will see it when its ready, and it will be awesome.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Thank goodness someone else asked. Being in production, thought it would only be a couple days until it was unveiled. Still waiting. Received the board and CPU should arrive later this week. Jut hope i can get one close to new year. Will the RIVE block set fit the RIVE-BE mobo? Hopefully the newer set will feature an active chipset cooler instead of a standard piece of aluminum.


Full Board Blocks always cool the chipset. Not that it needs it. Mobo blocks are really just aesthetic.
That being said, you can sign me up for a RIVE BE Clean Copper/Plexi block on day one


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> well " being in production" can mean so many different things, the time it takes to get it ready to unveil could be a long wait, or a day or hours, depends on the size of the team working on it i guess, and in EK's case, they arent exactly the largest in the world
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> give it time, im sure we will see it when its ready, and it will be awesome.


True, but being in manufacturing myself, design is usually the part that takes the most time. I took being in production as out of design, programs wrote, and mills running. I actually do some design and write/nest files for lasers, turrets and such. Just anxious to get my hands on one!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> True, but being in manufacturing myself, design is usually the part that takes the most time. I took being in production as out of design, programs wrote, and mills running. I actually do some design and write/nest files for lasers, turrets and such. *Just anxious to get my hands on one!*


that makes two of us


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

If anyone knows some secret website with water cooling goods please let me know








I have a thread yet most of the sites on there aren't carrying the ek res x3 replacement tube.
Orderable on frozencpu 1-18days, can find it from hellfire toyz on ebay with 10+day shipping
(20 euro just to ship from ek webstore)
Almost impossible to find just the 250 tube online right now


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> If anyone knows some secret website with water cooling goods please let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a thread yet most of the sites on there aren't carrying the ek res x3 replacement tube.
> Orderable on frozencpu 1-18days, can find it from hellfire toyz on ebay with 10+day shipping
> (20 euro just to ship from ek webstore)
> Almost impossible to find just the 250 tube online right now


in europe? or USA?


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> in europe? or USA?


USA
trying google, amazon, ebay... the places that DO have it is out of stock and some sites list 3 of the 4 size EK X3 res not the EK X3 250


----------



## VSG

Hellfire Toyz ships pretty fast.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> If anyone knows some secret website with water cooling goods please let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a thread yet most of the sites on there aren't carrying the ek res x3 replacement tube.
> Orderable on frozencpu 1-18days, can find it from hellfire toyz on ebay with 10+day shipping
> (20 euro just to ship from ek webstore)
> Almost impossible to find just the 250 tube online right now


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> USA
> trying google, amazon, ebay... the places that DO have it is out of stock and some sites list 3 of the 4 size EK X3 res not the EK X3 250


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hellfire Toyz ships pretty fast.


I have done a lot od busniess with Hellfire Toyz and they are good if you dont agree with shipping drop them an email and ask why so high!!


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Any update on the EK blocks for RIVBE ?


In production. Should be available mid week or by the end of the week. Follow our website for more news.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> White block for gtx780 hof are on order
> 
> My theme is white and gold
> 
> I want to change all screws on block for gold one
> 
> Any EK rep or anyone can tel me what is size of screws on EK Gpu block?
> 
> M3, M4 or M5. And lenght ?
> 
> Thanks


M4x8 DIN7984
M3x12 DIN7991


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> M4x8 DIN7984
> M3x12 DIN7991


Thanks Really appreciate

hahahah the store have all size and length except these


----------



## s3tfree

hey guys and gals,
need an advice... did any of you came across the EK-D5 Dual TOP G1/4 CSQ - Acetal with koolance pmp 450 ?

I know it's a long shot...


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> In production. Should be available mid week or by the end of the week. Follow our website for more news.


Awesome! Will I be able to purchase directly from ek webshop or have to get it from fcpu or ppcs in US?


----------



## DerComissar

I'm going to be installing an EK 780 Ti backplate on an EVGA 780 Ti, along with the block:

EK ships the same backplate, for the 780, 780 Ti, and Titan. They include a set of thermal pads for the Titan, which has the extra ram chips on the back of the pcb, unlike the 780's.
From my understanding then, the EK backplate does not require any pads to be installed on it for the 780 Ti, is this correct?

I want to be certain that the standoffs on the backplate alone will prevent any contact issues without using the pads. Some other 780 Ti backplates, such as EVGA's and Swiftech's, still require pads on them, according to their instructions, and I want to verify that the EK backplate does not require them for the 780 Ti.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> can any of you help me confirm?


Wait .... what "tube" are you looking for ? I thought you were looking for a fill tube, not a replacement for a broken tube cyclinder

These parts I gave you previously are compatible ....

EK-MultiOption RES X3 250 - Liquid Cooling Reservoir - White Acetal (6 Total Ports)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21672/ex-res-677/EK-MultiOption_RES_X3_250_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_-_White_Acetal_6_Total_Ports.html?tl=g57c615s1940#blank

EK X3 Reservoir Multiport Replacement Top - White (EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP WHITE)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18485/ex-res-481/EK_X3_Reservoir_Multiport_Replacement_Top_-_White_EK-RES_X3_-_Multiport_TOP_WHITE.html?id=4NiLmkLB&mv_pc=1254

*Internal Tube 12/16 - 140mm* (EK-RES-X3-TUBE-140 http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312

EK G1/4 Thread Fitting Extender - Nickel - 8mm (Fitting Extender G1/4 (Ni)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18760/scr-701/EK_G14_Thread_Fitting_Extender_-_Nickel_-_8mm_Fitting_Extender_G14_Ni.html?id=4NiLmkLB&mv_pc=1256

Here they are all compatabiled


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> If anyone knows some secret website with water cooling goods please let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a thread yet most of the sites on there aren't carrying the ek res x3 replacement tube.
> Orderable on frozencpu 1-18days, can find it from hellfire toyz on ebay with 10+day shipping
> (20 euro just to ship from ek webstore)
> Almost impossible to find just the 250 tube online right now


<=== confused, I thought you hadn't even bought a res yet .... how'd ya break one already









Res 3 - 250 ...44 black ones in stock / 0 white ones
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17509/ex-res-432/EK-MultiOption_RES_X3_250_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_6_Total_Ports.html?tl=g57c615s1940
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21672/ex-res-677/EK-MultiOption_RES_X3_250_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_-_White_Acetal_6_Total_Ports.html?tl=g57c615s1940

Replacement tubes are "orderable which means they do in in < 2 weeks ...can call and get an more precise date. Last time I did that, I ordered on Thursday and I picked it up on Tuesday
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17773/ex-res-463/EK_X3_Reservoir_Replacement_Tube_-_250_EK-RES_X3_-_TUBE_250_204mm.html?tl=g57c615s1884


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hellfire Toyz ships pretty fast.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I have done a lot od busniess with Hellfire Toyz and they are good if you dont agree with shipping drop them an email and ask why so high!!


good to hear feedback!
I was a little hesitant because they only sell the 250 res on ebay and not on their website







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> <=== confused, I thought you hadn't even bought a res yet .... how'd ya break one already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Res 3 - 250 ...44 black ones in stock / 0 white ones
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17509/ex-res-432/EK-MultiOption_RES_X3_250_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_6_Total_Ports.html?tl=g57c615s1940
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21672/ex-res-677/EK-MultiOption_RES_X3_250_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_-_White_Acetal_6_Total_Ports.html?tl=g57c615s1940
> 
> Replacement tubes are "orderable which means they do in in < 2 weeks ...can call and get an more precise date. Last time I did that, I ordered on Thursday and I picked it up on Tuesday
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17773/ex-res-463/EK_X3_Reservoir_Replacement_Tube_-_250_EK-RES_X3_-_TUBE_250_204mm.html?tl=g57c615s1884


I did not break anything silly







I am looking for a replacement (spend $20 on a bigger tube instead of $60 on a brand new one )
i'm looking to upgrade my 150 to a 250 ( getting a replacement tube )
i try not to order from frozencpu, but waiting two weeks would be the same as the places that already have it in stock


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> good to hear feedback!
> I was a little hesitant because they only sell the 250 res on ebay and not on their website
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not break anything silly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking for a replacement (spend $20 on a bigger tube instead of $60 on a brand new one )
> i'm looking to upgrade my 150 to a 250 ( getting a replacement tube )
> i try not to order from frozencpu, but waiting two weeks would be the same as the places that already have it in stock


Give a call to FrozenCPU when they open tomorrow. I ended up ordering the replacement 250mL tube for the EK D5 X-Res, and it had said it was on a 2 week back order. But it turned out they had it in stock, and it did ship with the rest of my purchase. So their online inventory isn't always indicative of their actual inventory.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Give a call to FrozenCPU when they open tomorrow. I ended up ordering the replacement 250mL tube for the EK D5 X-Res, and it had said it was on a 2 week back order. But it turned out they had it in stock, and it did ship with the rest of my purchase. So their online inventory isn't always indicative of their actual inventory.


Yeah I hear you, same with hellfire.... They have it on ebay but not on their website!!








Unfortunately from past experiences with issues on their policy on top of their prices/shipping, I try to never order from frozencpu.
(sucks because they have a mayhems concentrate I want)
shipping prices on two orders always hurt my pockets


----------



## Akula




----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> I did not break anything silly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking for a replacement (spend $20 on a bigger tube instead of $60 on a brand new one )
> i'm looking to upgrade my 150 to a 250 ( getting a replacement tube )


And she's OK with that ..... oh, I'm sorry, are we still talking about computers :0

You have similar questions in several different different threads I'm losing track....thatz what hapens at my age







.... I seem to remember a question you had about replacing single port top with multiport .... and if that's what ya doing, cost might not be all that different.... ya could use the bottom of ya existing res as the top








Quote:


> i try not to order from frozencpu, but waiting two weeks would be the same as the places that already have it in stock


I'm buying more and more of my stuff from them..... and they in NY so I have to pay tax. Even buying fans from them this week, cheaper than newegg even after tax and I have had customer service problems w/ newegg 4 orders in a row. With FPCU they are just so accommodating and thee person who answers the phone solves the problem whatever it takes.... w/ newegg it's repeated "lemme put ya on hold" and "I'm sorry but there's nothing I can do".

$15.99 http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c331/s877/list/p1/b207/Phanteks-12_Volt_Fans_-_LED_UV-140mm_x_25mm_LED_Fans-Page1.html
$17.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709024


----------



## Pheozero

Would this be the proper terminal to use for a mATX board? Is PCIe spacing an industrial standard?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18973/ex-blc-1421/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Dual_Parallel_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_DUAL_Parallel.html?tl=g57c645s2060


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> And she's OK with that ..... oh, I'm sorry, are we still talking about computers :0
> 
> You have similar questions in several different different threads I'm losing track....thatz what hapens at my age
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... I seem to remember a question you had about replacing single port top with multiport .... and if that's what ya doing, cost might not be all that different.... ya could use the bottom of ya existing res as the top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm buying more and more of my stuff from them..... and they in NY so I have to pay tax. Even buying fans from them this week, cheaper than newegg even after tax and I have had customer service problems w/ newegg 4 orders in a row. With FPCU they are just so accommodating and thee person who answers the phone solves the problem whatever it takes.... w/ newegg it's repeated "lemme put ya on hold" and "I'm sorry but there's nothing I can do".
> 
> $15.99 http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c331/s877/list/p1/b207/Phanteks-12_Volt_Fans_-_LED_UV-140mm_x_25mm_LED_Fans-Page1.html
> $17.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709024


I don't blame you







me too, sometimes I am all over the place
I only have asked about the reservoir in this thread, have never had singleport







Only interested in changing my 150tube to the 250tube, the magical 250ml tube which is impossible to find in stock right now









I will not threadcrap with the problems I've had with fcpu which is why all I am saying is I try to avoid them at all costs.
Seems 75% of items on their site is a bit more expensive than the competitors too








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks amazing


----------



## Ragsters

I love frozencpu. Everything is a little more expensive but the fact that they don't charge me tax really makes up for it.
Also I seem to find little things like EK hardware (screws, thermal pads) that others don't carry.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Hi everyone,

I have a question, and i hope there is someone that give me a good answer to it.

I have bought this supremacy.
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/supremacy/ek-supremacy-nickel.html

I have heard that a 90 degree rotated supremacy, the temperatures are lower than for standard installation, is that correct?
Can anyone show me a table or image with measurement data to it or anything helpfully ?

Thx !


----------



## Pheozero

IIRC, I think stren did some testing on it. It wasn't that much of a decrease, I think.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I have a question, and i hope there is someone that give me a good answer to it.
> 
> I have bought this supremacy.
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/supremacy/ek-supremacy-nickel.html
> 
> I have heard that a 90 degree rotated supremacy, the temperatures are lower than for standard installation, is that correct?
> Can anyone show me a table or image with measurement data to it or anything helpfully ?
> 
> Thx !


http://www.xtremerigs.net/2012/11/09/2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/

Its only a degree so orientation is not a huge deal. I say place it which ever way you want or its easier to plumb your loop.

Anyone have pics of the RIVE BE block?


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Thx !


----------



## Egami

There are so few pics of them lower end gpu blocks floating on the 'net that I feel compelled to correct the situation


----------



## szeged

got a nice shot of my still broken 780 classy EK block since frozencpu has stopped responding to me about my replacement for the past couple weeks =\

anyways, a nice shot of the block



and the broken area again


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> I don't blame you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> me too, sometimes I am all over the place
> I only have asked about the reservoir in this thread, have never had singleport
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only interested in changing my 150tube to the 250tube, the magical 250ml tube which is impossible to find in stock right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will not threadcrap with the problems I've had with fcpu which is why all I am saying is I try to avoid them at all costs.
> Seems 75% of items on their site is a bit more expensive than the competitors too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks amazing


I priced out all 6 items on my parts list at all the available WC vendor sites .....

-few had more than 20% of the items on my list
-FCPU had all but 3 (bot 2 @ amazon, 1 at PPC)
-PPC had the most ... maybe 60%
-Most item prices were identical
-3 or 4 items were 50 cents to a buck higher on FCPU ... all told the differcnes wuda been wiped out by add'tl shipping costs
-One item was $15 (flow meters) higher on FCPU ... like $23 and $38 IIRC
-FCPU took about 12 calls / e-mails w/ questions and gave answers
-My calls to another vendor were....well shall we say ..... I know more about the product than they did.


----------



## defiler2k

So I'm in the process of putting in my new CPU in and my X-Res140 however there is a steady leak on the loop return port regardless how tight I have the enclosed extender, I even tried other extenders replacing o rings and same result (even after trying to tighten with pliers). The leak is bad enough that I just need to put a little water in the reservoir for it to start leaking. Any thoughts on this or should I try to RMA?

I want to get a longer tube for this kit (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-res-x3-tube-250-204mm.html) and a different top to have more options to run the tubing (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport.html) however this leak is driving me nuts and I don't want to buy more parts until I can get this fixed in case I have to get something different.

I highlighted the leaky port for reference
.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Would this be the proper terminal to use for a mATX board? Is PCIe spacing an industrial standard?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18973/ex-blc-1421/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Dual_Parallel_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_DUAL_Parallel.html?tl=g57c645s2060


What board?

But yes, usually mATX boards use 1.6" (2x 0.8" hence DUAL) distance between the PCI-e x16 slots.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Is that an "EK Extender Fitting" or another brand .... dunno about your config but in the Res-3 instructions there is a warning that you can NOT use any other extenders in the top or bottom ports (the flat side of res is apparently ok) but the EK ones. From what I remember, the EK are 17mm diameter and everyone else is 18mm ..... by being 1mm smaller, the extender will go inside the 17mmmdepression and do a seal to both the bottom and the sides of the depression.

They do this "you need something special that only we sell" thing on the interior fill tubes......my Bitspower aquatube fit the single port top but on the multi, they stopped teh G1/4 threads a mm shy of the 12/16 on the other side ..... yup just so ya have to use their 12/16 tube instead of the Bitspower


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Is that an "EK Extender Fitting" or another brand .... dunno about your config but in the Res-3 instructions there is a warning that you can NOT use any other extenders in the top or bottom ports (the flat side of res is apparently ok) but the EK ones. From what I remember, the EK are 17mm diameter and everyone else is 18mm ..... by being 1mm smaller, the extender will go inside the 17mmmdepression and do a seal to both the bottom and the sides of the depression.
> 
> They do this "you need something special that only we sell" thing on the interior fill tubes......my Bitspower aquatube fit the single port top but on the multi, they stopped teh G1/4 threads a mm shy of the 12/16 on the other side ..... yup just so ya have to use their 12/16 tube instead of the Bitspower


Its an EK extender, I tried the one that came with the kit and a spare I had (for my FC bridge) with the same results.


----------



## RAFFY

Just wanted to give a big thanks to the EK team for agreeing to replace my EK Supremacy's Copper Top! @EK_tiborrr is there you can make sure that you guys also send me a J4 with the new top as well? As i mentioned a few pages back mine didn't come with any plates at all and from my understanding the J4 is the best for the 2011 socket.


----------



## Ryanboost

I need to remount my 780 Classy water block and need to find some replacement thermal pads like the ones that came with it. Any ideas or where or what kind to purchase?


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanboost*
> 
> I need to remount my 780 Classy water block and need to find some replacement thermal pads like the ones that came with it. Any ideas or where or what kind to purchase?


For replacement thermal pads you could purchase some Fuijpoly Ultra's. They are available at FrozenCPU n Performance PCs if your in the states. That is what i have purchased for Quad 290x's.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanboost*
> 
> I need to remount my 780 Classy water block and need to find some replacement thermal pads like the ones that came with it. Any ideas or where or what kind to purchase?


I bought a cheap 100mm x 100mm sheet on eBay and it worked fine for my full cover gtx470 block. You need to make sure you get the correct thickness though. Mine was all 1mm thickness. Yours could be different
http://www.ebay.com/itm/sheet-of-100-X100X1-mm-Thermal-Conductive-Compound-Pad-For-Heatsink-Chip-GPU-/141039603310?ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:US:3160


----------



## RavageTheEarth

I dont think the Fujipoly Ultra thermal pads are available at PPC. They do have the Fujipoly Extreme pads there which have a very high thermal conductivity of 11.


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I dont think the Fujipoly Ultra thermal pads are available at PPC. They do have the Fujipoly Extreme pads there which have a very high thermal conductivity of 11.


Oh well that stinks. If your going to spend that kind of money on thermal pads might as well get Ultras!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Oh well that stinks. If your going to spend that kind of money on thermal pads might as well get Ultras!


Yea I think I'm just going to go with the Extremes since the Ultras cost double.


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yea I think I'm just going to go with the Extremes since the Ultras cost double.


Oh i thought they were only like $3 or 4 more. Either way they are both awesome thermal pads.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Well a 200mm x 150mm x 1.0mm sheet of Ultra 17.0 W/mK is $200 and a 150mm x 100mm x 1.0mm sheet of Extreme 11.0 W/mK is $20 lol

But, yes. Both are amazing.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> What board?
> 
> But yes, usually mATX boards use 1.6" (2x 0.8" hence DUAL) distance between the PCI-e x16 slots.


Most likely the Asus Gryphon.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> What board?
> 
> But yes, usually mATX boards use 1.6" (2x 0.8" hence DUAL) distance between the PCI-e x16 slots.
> 
> 
> 
> Most likely the Asus Gryphon.
Click to expand...

Then yes that bridge will work for you.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What size fittings are those?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I have done a lot od busniess with Hellfire Toyz and they are good if you dont agree with shipping drop them an email and ask why so high!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hellfire Toyz ships pretty fast.


No email response








Guess I'll wait another day and what not but I doubt I would buy on ebay at this point


----------



## VSG

Who did you contact? Email Eric: [email protected]


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> No email response
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I'll wait another day and what not but I doubt I would buy on ebay at this point


well I dont know what to say it was about 6 months since I have done any business with them and I bought some items and they sponsored some.. maybe just server problem dont buy until you talk to them..


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Who did you contact? Email Eric: [email protected]


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> well I dont know what to say it was about 6 months since I have done any business with them and I bought some items and they sponsored some.. maybe just server problem dont buy until you talk to them..










did not expect both of you to be online and respond!

Yeah, I used website for contact, didn't do anything through ebay. I'm just continuing to search for another place


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did not expect both of you to be online and respond!
> 
> Yeah, I used website for contact, didn't do anything through ebay. I'm just continuing to search for another place


Eric is the owmers name and was a real good dude dont know what problems he has ran into and it maybe nothing..

try this email and look on amazon they are there also [email protected]


----------



## VSG

He is more active on eBay and Amazon, I just ordered a few fittings last week and they are here today.


----------



## wermad

Getting close


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Eric is the owmers name and was a real good dude dont know what problems he has ran into and it maybe nothing..
> 
> try this email and look on amazon they are there also [email protected]


They are pretty good, my gripe with them is shipping at least on ebay they never combine shipping although in the end they ship everything in the same box and I usually pay priority but they ship extremely fast and pack things very well.

Also the one time I had to get support from them they were great and very fast. I got my FC bridge from them and it was missing some of the components and they sent a replacement ASAP.


----------



## wermad

HellFireToyz is pretty quick at replying, though i go through ebay.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> They are pretty good, my gripe with them is shipping at least on ebay they never combine shipping although in the end they ship everything in the same box and I usually pay priority but they ship extremely fast and pack things very well.
> 
> Also the one time I had to get support from them they were great and very fast. I got my FC bridge from them and it was missing some of the components and they sent a replacement ASAP.


They do combined shipping if you wait to receive an invoice for the items. Usually takes 1-24 hours.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Getting close
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What fittings are that?


----------



## Pheozero

Look like Enzotech fittings.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> What fittings are that?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Look like Enzotech fittings.
Click to expand...









, Enzotech matte black 1/2x3/4 (13mmx19mm).


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Look like Enzotech fittings.


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , Enzotech matte black 1/2x3/4 (13mmx19mm).


Thanks :>
Nice blocks, wish my wallet had that compatibility...


----------



## X-oiL

Anyone knows if this ever been produced in à plexi version?

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-triple-serial-z77-csq.html


----------



## Asus11

what would be the easiest way to empty/flush my watercooling system

it was only done a few days ago, I have only found out deironized water is bad for the system...

I have the ek nickel block too so dont want it to get wrecked.. my setup is really tight/compact..

is there a special pump which can drain all the liquid ? I have ordered a water extractor just but want some of your opinions

also looking at buying mayhems premix now or some mayhems pure h20

I was thinking if it was too difficult to drain etc I could just drain whats in the res and keep filling with a premix colour and waiting for it to circulcate and take more out the res until its basically only premix left?
yeh I know crazy but im willing to do it if it means saving my system


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Why is deionized water bad ? It's generally recommended

Distilled Water - Has no bacteria, but has minerals such as salts
Dionized Water - No minerals but may contain bacteria

Laboratory supply houses will see deionized water that has been filtered of all bacteria and organics but that's not ya $0.39 a gallon Walmart stuff

The easiest way I see to drain that loop is:

1. Grab a M X M G-1/4, valve, compression fitting, and length of tube

2. Lay puter on right side and unscrew the plug in the EK pump reservoir

3. Screw in the compression fitting.

4. Stand up the puter .... put tube in a pot or other container and open valve

5, Tilt the case to right to get what ya can .... tilt case up on the back side to get gfx card and CPU block hose

That will get most everything out

5. To get the rest, best I can suggest is lay on left side again, take of compression fitting, replace plug in res / pump, remove the connection to GFX card .... plug the card opening.

7. Tilt up case to standing position while holding tube with opening as high as ya can..... drain hose to container.

8. Place folded towel down, put bowl on top, open plug and drain GFX card into bowl.

Before ya put back together ..... for future draining

A. Screw the M X M Thd Fittting into bottom of GFX card .... then a Tee into that ... then screw ya existing tube to GFX card into from pump into side outlet of tee.

B. On down side of Tee, use another M X M, followed by a valve and plug. Ya might want a 90 bend under the valve

_____________
|
| GFX Card
|_____________
|
| M X M Thd Fitting
|
|
|- - - Tee (Tube from Res / Pump)
|
|
| M X M Thd Fitting
|
|
X Valve
|
|
|___ 90 bend and plug


----------



## VSG

I work in a lab with access to DI water, but I keep reading online that distilled is better than DI and the reasons cited are inconsistent across everything I have read. I would also imagine DI water purified to remove microbial life should be better than distilled water.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I work in a lab with access to DI water, but I keep reading online that distilled is better than DI and the reasons cited are inconsistent across everything I have read. I would also imagine DI water purified to remove microbial life should be better than distilled water.


As a pure uneducated guess:

The adulterants and contaminants present on a person's hands and in the build room are more than enough to outweigh any difference the average builder would find between DI and distilled water. Until people start building with gloves and in clean rooms, I think the differences are outweighed by the environment.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> Anyone knows if this ever been produced in à plexi version?
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-triple-serial-z77-csq.html


It hasn't.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> what would be the easiest way to empty/flush my watercooling system
> 
> it was only done a few days ago, I have only found out deironized water is bad for the system...
> 
> I have the ek nickel block too so dont want it to get wrecked.. my setup is really tight/compact..
> 
> is there a special pump which can drain all the liquid ? I have ordered a water extractor just but want some of your opinions
> 
> also looking at buying mayhems premix now or some mayhems pure h20
> 
> I was thinking if it was too difficult to drain etc I could just drain whats in the res and keep filling with a premix colour and waiting for it to circulcate and take more out the res until its basically only premix left?
> yeh I know crazy but im willing to do it if it means saving my system


Yikes not really an easy spot to do so. Maybe if got a couple containers and placed them under the GPU outlet that goes to the res and was quick about things. Along with lots of paper towels and of course your system being off lol. Sometimes it's best to leave a little T at the bottom of the case for these things.


----------



## X-oiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It hasn't.


Too bad :-( u have any idea how to solve my problem. I want a plexi block and bridge together with 3 GPUs and the z77 spacing.


----------



## derickwm

You could use acrylic with push fittings and plexi blocks?


----------



## X-oiL

Yes I believe that's my last option or to get a new motherboard.


----------



## wermad

Good lord! Is that a M6F block or are my eyes deceiving me


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

EK fittings just ripped a hole in my pocket







?
WHY MUST YOU DO THIS TO ME WATERCOOLING, WHY.

I need to go to Watercooling Anonymous meetings and kick this habit.


----------



## King4x4

You can't.


----------



## ikem

i am looking to use a EK FC Bridge Dual Parallel CSQ on 2 Supremacy VGAs, but I have a Reverse ATX mobo. Could I rotate the bridge 180? All the holes should still line up.

Has anyone done this?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> i am looking to use a EK FC Bridge Dual Parallel CSQ on 2 Supremacy VGAs, but I have a Reverse ATX mobo. Could I rotate the bridge 180? All the holes should still line up.
> 
> Has anyone done this?


Should be plausible, give it a go







. If not, you'll just have to install it upside down (due to your r-atx layout). You can always remove the ek logo and re-position it properly.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> i am looking to use a EK FC Bridge Dual Parallel CSQ on 2 Supremacy VGAs, but I have a Reverse ATX mobo. Could I rotate the bridge 180? All the holes should still line up.
> 
> Has anyone done this?


Yes, the holes will line up, BUT, it would put the face with the single port facing the rear of your case, might make tubing a pain.

If it's just the logo being backwards, take the emblem off and rotate it.


----------



## ikem

i would put a 90 pointing down. The thing that I am running into is, if i put it on like usual, there are no ports on the top of the bridge. and my rad's port is to the rear of the case. Rotating it would allow it to have ports up there, and i would have to use 2 90s coming out of the bridge


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Trivia.

EK X3 res.

1Port at top

How can I make this my inlet port on res (extender+fitting)? how do I get that cylinder tube functioning in there? How would I bleed the loop?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36311

I am considering if possible to use top of the res as my inlet, It would shave 1 foot of tubing off my build and allow me to reverse the flow

- so I can only use that tube if I have the multiport top? http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36602
This being the case would not make it good for me.
Not only would it not look as nice as it does now but it would cost me to get the plugs for all 5 of those ports... 5x2-3$ easy $10-15 on top of the $15 for multiport top, that's more than $30 with shipping which would make this become a not so cheap reservoir anymore


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I work in a lab with access to DI water, but I keep reading online that distilled is better than DI and the reasons cited are inconsistent across everything I have read. I would also imagine DI water purified to remove microbial life should be better than distilled water.


Distilled ..... can have salts .... salts are electrolytes .... electrolytes are corrosion carriers .... but ya won't have to worry about bacteria / algae

Deionized .....can have bacteria / algae ..... they make gunk ...... but ya wont have electrolytes (except from contaminated surfaces water touches).

Labs usually bu DI which has been filtered (reverse osmosis) and charcoal filtered to remove organics..... BUT that is reserved for only situations were the utmost pure water is required and regular DI or DW is used in many other lab applications.

So if ya bring home "da good stuff" .... make sure ya autoclave the bottle and all ya blocks, fittings and tubes .... and wear ya mask and moon suit during assembly :0

That should insure ya loop is pure..... for a few days anyway before metal ions starts leaching in to the liquid from rads, blocks etc


----------



## VSG

Ya we got an RO DI water dispenser but I agree that by the time a loop is set up, it won't matter much.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Found a replacement tube from a member here @ OCN.

Finding a http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312 seems to be just as impossible as the tube!!!!!

If EK's shipping didn't cost 5x the item I would buy it and wait.

Do you guys think I can get away with a 40mm tube initially in that res by just filling it all the way up or you think it will just become a hassle to bleed?


----------



## wermad




----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Does anyone know if I can get away using the 200ml cylinder inside a ek res x3 250? is there any clearance at all?
I understand they might be the same exact height but with the port top and port bottom would that leave me with an inch or less/more of clearance?
rather have extra long cylinder in there instead of a 1.5inch one making it difficult to bleed


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Found a replacement tube from a member here @ OCN.
> 
> Finding a http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312 seems to be just as impossible as the tube!!!!!
> 
> If EK's shipping didn't cost 5x the item I would buy it and wait.
> 
> Do you guys think I can get away with a 40mm tube initially in that res by just filling it all the way up or you think it will just become a hassle to bleed?


order it from aquatunning as shipping is not that expensive and you will have it fast..


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> order it from aquatunning as shipping is not that expensive and you will have it fast..


trust me I would! was one of the first couple websites I checked, did not see any ek reservoirs in there or accessories for it at all


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> trust me I would! was one of the first couple websites I checked, did not see any ek reservoirs in there or accessories for it at all


Your right I forgot they dont have EK items think they had a disagreement with EK


----------



## wermad

The tube is meant to guide the incoming flow away from the top port or act as a well to fill the res. I had the small version on my old 250 adv. You can always have your inlet at the bottom to have a free top for fill ups.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The tube is meant to guide the incoming flow away from the top port or act as a well to fill the res. I had the small version on my old 250 adv. You can always have your inlet at the bottom to have a free top for fill ups.


That is what I am doing now.

I want to get the multioption top to have inlet at top and save 1+feet of tubing








I am going to get the smallest cylinder they have and just try to bleed it as best as possible until I can find the proper one for the EK X3 250 res


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> That is what I am doing now.
> 
> I want to get the multioption top to have inlet at top and save 1+feet of tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am going to get the smallest cylinder they have and just try to bleed it as best as possible until I can find the proper one for the EK X3 250 res


You could use one of *these* to bleed the air out


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You could use one of *these* to bleed the air out


Fifteen WHOPPING dollars








I'm going to be stuck with just the multioption top and the short cylinder, I'll leave one port open on top and try to bleed ( res will be full for cylinder to work so it will be a pain ) or I will just close, get some bubbles through and open port to release air, close and redo 38 times until its done!









edit - is pretty neat though, If I didn't have such a long list of other things I already have picked up/need to pick it up I would add it on there. might even just have to







ty for the link
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_203_479&products_id=21717
looks nowhere as good as the bitspower one but 1/3 the price, I wonder if they'll both perform the same.. I came across this video 



 showing it a bit, now I can't say much for the koolance








I know bitspower parts seem to always cost more than the competitors but I am going to assume they work the same, problem is me not knowing if either have issues. I did look at both diagrams on koolance website
not sure if this is the one fitting I save on, would not be nice to have constant air going through a valve that's supposed to release it


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Trivia.
> 
> EK X3 res.
> 
> 1Port at top
> 
> How can I make this my inlet port on res (extender+fitting)? how do I get that cylinder tube functioning in there? How would I bleed the loop?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36311
> 
> I am considering if possible to use top of the res as my inlet, It would shave 1 foot of tubing off my build and allow me to reverse the flow
> 
> - so I can only use that tube if I have the multiport top? http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36602
> This being the case would not make it good for me.
> Not only would it not look as nice as it does now but it would cost me to get the plugs for all 5 of those ports... 5x2-3$ easy $10-15 on top of the $15 for multiport top, that's more than $30 with shipping which would make this become a not so cheap reservoir anymore


You don't need plugs for all the 5 ports:

1. Ya fill port fills one, I used one that came with bottom
2. Ya bleed port fills the another, I used one that came with bottom
3. The ones of the flat side can be filled with any plug ... ones left over from ya bottom or rads.
4. I bot 2 just in case and only wound up using one.....for the 3rd port on top....had a spare which I used for funnel.

The flat side I set up facing the back, like the bottom so had no impact visually

Yeah, wen you were looking for the tube, thatz why I asked how close it would be just to get another res.....$16 for top, $10 for extenders (Extenders are $2 and I only needed one), $19 for the tube, $8 shipping x 2 couldn't be far off from buying a whole res.,,,, $72 for new res delivered versus $61 ? and all the chasin and waitin.

I thot of trying to use the original top....installed a fill tube and took res over to the sink and tried to fill it and get air out.... no luck and that was in the sink, not installed inside a computer case.

The only way I cud figure out having a shot at it was to unscrew the whole red top and fill the loop and hop that I could screw it down fast enough when it got to right level w/o spilling all over.

If ya have the spare plugs, (rads came with 6 plugs, ya gotta have at least one left over if ya used in and out .... more if ya have a temp sensor or drain)....shud only need one extender. It's $16 for the top, $2 for the needed extender and $7 for the special EK fill tube


----------



## RAFFY

Is the ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition full coverage block still suppose to be released this week?


----------



## tiborrr12

Monday, bro. Copper parts just came from nickel plating some hours ago.


----------



## szeged

Hey guys, for the rampage IV black 2011 board when installing the ek supremacy block, which backplate do i use? or can i use the stock backplate thats already on the board? sorry i lost my little booklet that came with the supremacy months ago







atm i got the 4 m4 screws just screwed into the stock rampage backplate but wanted to double check before i went any farther. also, should i use the .7mm plastic washers on socket 2011 boards? i remember reading you only used them on 115X amd and 1366. ty guys.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Hey guys, for the rampage IV black 2011 board when installing the ek supremacy block, which backplate do i use? or can i use the stock backplate thats already on the board? sorry i lost my little booklet that came with the supremacy months ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> atm i got the 4 m4 screws just screwed into the stock rampage backplate but wanted to double check before i went any farther. also, should i use the .7mm plastic washers on socket 2011 boards? i remember reading you only used them on 115X amd and 1366. ty guys.


If your's came w/ four plates, use #4. If you only got three, use #3. I got a CSQ acetal kit w/ only three plates and I'm using #3







. And you don't need washers on the posts that attach to the lga2011 bracket. Just use the nylon washers on the block bracket to avoid the springs scratching it when turning the retention thumb bolts.

edit:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990877.pdf

For lga2011, you use the "LGA2011" posts and not the long screws.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If your's came w/ four plates, use #4. If you only got three, use #3. I got a CSQ acetal kit w/ only three plates and I'm using #3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . And you don't need washers on the posts that attach to the lga2011 bracket. Just use the nylon washers on the block bracket to avoid the springs scratching it when turning the retention thumb bolts.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990877.pdf


can you post a screenshot of which backplate youre using? ty


----------



## szeged

also my clean csq plexi block only came with two backplates


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> also my clean csq plexi block only came with two backplates


You don't need backplates for LGA2011







. Make sure you use J4 if you got four jet plates, or J3 if you only got three.


----------



## szeged

ah so i can use the stock backplate that the rive-be comes with, nice.

how much of a difference does the j4 jetplate make in terms of thermal performance? i was going to change it but then decided i could do that later, but i also have literally nothing to do all day except sleeve fan cables, measure out boards for my desk and measure out some acrylic for bending, so the rest of the day ill be pretty bored and can take some time to switch it out lol.


----------



## wermad

This is the one I used since i purchased an earlier CSQ (crop circle) Supremacy. I know the reps have said you can get J4 but I'm not sweating it tbh.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ah so i can use the stock backplate that the rive-be comes with, nice.
> 
> how much of a difference does the j4 jetplate make in terms of thermal performance? i was going to change it but then decided i could do that later, but i also have literally nothing to do all day except sleeve fan cables, measure out boards for my desk and measure out some acrylic for bending, so the rest of the day ill be pretty bored and can take some time to switch it out lol.


There's a review linked by Tiborr, just search for it in the thread.

This is the mounting you want for LGA2011:



The BE has a retention plate system so do the yellow circle.

edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Read the manual, Bradley. Each jet is optimized for specific socket.
> 
> Also, this should be a good read:
> - stren's review: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2012/11/09/2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/
> - Moonman's review: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup


----------



## szeged

got it installed, ill post pics here and in my build log soon, ty for all the help


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Monday, bro. Copper parts just came from nickel plating some hours ago.


AWESOME!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ah so i can use the stock backplate that the rive-be comes with, nice.
> 
> how much of a difference does the j4 jetplate make in terms of thermal performance? i was going to change it but then decided i could do that later, but i also have literally nothing to do all day except sleeve fan cables, measure out boards for my desk and measure out some acrylic for bending, so the rest of the day ill be pretty bored and can take some time to switch it out lol.


Just use the pre-installed back plate on the RIVBE. It was over built on purpose for water cooling blocks and heavy air coolers. As far as the J4 plate is concerned it decreases the temperature 1 celcius. Another thing you can do to decrease temps is to mount the block with the in and out ports vertical (The EK logo should be in the top right corner or bottom left corner).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> got it installed, ill post pics here and in my build log soon, ty for all the help


*READ MY POST TOO FOR UBER PERFORMANCE LOL!!!*


----------



## seross69

Will the BE blocks also be in just copper and not plated??


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Will the BE blocks also be in just copper and not plated??


I think i would literally shed a cpl tears at my pc right now if i find out there's gonna be only Nickel versions.

When they were announced as coming in all their main flavors, i figured copper/plexi clean would be a given......

Even bought a Supremacy to match it!!!!


----------



## szeged

take off the nickle plated block and sandblast it or lap it on all sides


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> take off the nickle plated block and sandblast it or lap it on all sides


Would i be able to get it exactly the same quality as their stock copper blocks if i do it like that? I don't have a sandblaster, so i'd have to lap it. But i've also never lapped before.


----------



## szeged

if you take your time with the right tools you should get the block down to a mirror finish. Ive only ever lapped one time, never did it before on anything just took my time, used the right sandpaper, got the block to where you could see your reflection perfectly


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanks for the tip. I guess there's still hope then.

I'll still be real upset if they only release good Nickel versions tho. That wouldn't be a very nice thing to do to some of us more cautious WC'ers


----------



## wermad

I'm sure they'll do a copper version since the RIVe had copper too.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, i still need to sell my BNIB RE4 Block. I returned my RIVE when the BE was announced. Luckily i only had it for a few days. I held onto the block just in case it would be compatible tho....


----------



## Big Elf

Does the *EK Cooling Configurator* still work for you? I'm getting Javascript errors in Firefox, Chrome and IE11 and can't find it setting that will enable it to work.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Does the *EK Cooling Configurator* still work for you? I'm getting Javascript errors in Firefox, Chrome and IE11 and can't find it setting that will enable it to work.


I clicked "I Understand" for the javascript thing, then refreshed the page and still got the error


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I clicked "I Understand" for the javascript thing, then refreshed the page and still got the error


Did you actually enable javascript through the internet options?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Is the ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition full coverage block still suppose to be released this week?


XP bro? Come onnnnnnnnnn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Will the BE blocks also be in just copper and not plated??


They will be available in 6 flavors, both nickel and copper versions.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:

Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth* 



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I clicked "I Understand" for the javascript thing, then refreshed the page and still got the error








> Did you actually enable javascript through the internet options?


Yeah, the Cooling Configurator usually works for me. That's why i checked when The Elfman asked.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Is the ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition full coverage block still suppose to be released this week?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XP bro? Come onnnnnnnnnn
Click to expand...











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> They will be available in 6 flavors, both nickel and copper versions.


AWESOME. I got worried there for a moment. You just made my day!!!


----------



## tiborrr12

Our programmers are re-doing CC front-end for mobile devices (dynamic scaling of the site) overnight as per my request, hence the bugs.


----------



## Asus11

what is the best solution to lower the volts/noise of a EK DCP 2.2 pump? as I heard even at lower volts/rpm there isn't much difference in temps, so i'd rather have it even quieter

was thinking 12v to 7v adaptor but the pump stats say it starts at 8v, maybe 12 to 9v?

any opinions solutions? thanks guys


----------



## VSG

Final list of EK products in this build:

1) 2 x EK-FC R9-290x Acetal
2) 2 x EK-FC R9-290X Backplate - Black
3) EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel 3-Slot
4) EK-FB KIT ASUS M6F - Acetal+Nickel


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Found a replacement tube from a member here @ OCN.
> 
> Finding a http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312 seems to be just as impossible as the tube!!!!!
> 
> If EK's shipping didn't cost 5x the item I would buy it and wait.
> 
> Do you guys think I can get away with a 40mm tube initially in that res by just filling it all the way up or you think it will just become a hassle to bleed?


Dang .... I think after we been talking about it, everyone ran out and bot stuff while you were trying to find a tube.







It was in stock when I first talked about it.

Bit I know that EK stuff crosses the pond about every two weeks or so.... at lkeats anytime I struck out, it's never been more than that far away.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Does anyone know if I can get away using the 200ml cylinder inside a ek res x3 250? is there any clearance at all?
> I understand they might be the same exact height but with the port top and port bottom would that leave me with an inch or less/more of clearance?
> rather have extra long cylinder in there instead of a 1.5inch one making it difficult to bleed


Can always cut it .... not the thd end of course


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Dang .... I think after we been talking about it, everyone ran out and bot stuff while you were trying to find a tube.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was in stock when I first talked about it.
> 
> Bit I know that EK stuff crosses the pond about every two weeks or so.... at lkeats anytime I struck out, it's never been more than that far away.
> Can always cut it .... not the thd end of course


I'm lucky right









I bought a replacement tube from a nice fellow here at OCN and I bought a small cylinder for the res from the site. I'll make it work.


----------



## gdubc

I got the bigger one and just planned on cutting it to the length I need. Its just acrylic tube and that one end is nothing special.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I got the bigger one and just planned on cutting it to the length I need. Its just acrylic tube and that one end is nothing special.


was going to do the same except I have no tools.
I didn't want magic fairy dust eroding off the cylinder tube over time into my loop


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> was going to do the same except I have no tools.
> I didn't want magic fairy dust eroding off the cylinder tube over time into my loop


Simple fine hack saw blade will do the trick .... could even wrap tape around it if ya don't have anything to put in in









Gotta be a cuz, neighbor around with a power tool....or given your location, ask superman to cut with x-ray vision


----------



## ikem

added 2 Supremacy VGAs to my EK collection now. Along with a Dual 2 slot bridge.


----------



## Big Elf

At the moment I've got 4 x FC-580GTX blocks, Asus X58 and pair of MOSFET blocks, 3 x EK-RAM Dominator blocks, a FC-5770 block (and recently sold a pair of 5770s with EK blocks fitted) 400 Res Advanced plus a couple of the smaller ones. I even got the T-Shirt. Apparently though, I'm not classed as a repeat or regular customer.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I even got the T-Shirt. Apparently though, I'm not classed as a repeat or regular customer.


I'm guessing there's more to this story... do tell


----------



## King4x4

Consider me first in line for a RIVB waterblock


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Consider me first in line for a RIVB waterblock


Lol I already one of the copper/acetal blocks being held for me as soon as it comes in







. Then I get a phone call and pay...now that's customer service!


----------



## snef

received 2 of 4 of my HOF block

took some pics

they are so nice

already have 2 GTX 780 HOF, waiting for 2 GTX 780 Ti HOF

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/blockwhite-7_zps670899c9.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/blockwhite-5_zpsaf8cf25b.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/blockwhite-9_zpsa11053b1.jpg.html


----------



## tiborrr12

Glad you like them!


----------



## Ragsters




----------



## szeged

hey guys, putting on one of my 780 classy blocks, just curious if i need to put thermal pads on this area in the red



thanks







i remember the little booklet showing that entire area covered, but i dont remember if i covered those up on my 780 classy or not last time.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hey guys, putting on one of my 780 classy blocks, just curious if i need to put thermal pads on this area in the red
> 
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i remember the little booklet showing that entire area covered, but i dont remember if i covered those up on my 780 classy or not last time.


The spots that touch the chips are usually protruding on the block. Just make sure these are covered by the pad.

Which card and block you have?


----------



## szeged

780ti classy









yeah i lined them up to check, but the block looks like it could go either way on this :x


----------



## tiborrr12

Yes, you do have to. Hence the raised section on the VRM part of the water block.


----------



## VSG

lol so I was checking up my facebook account and I noticed the EK facebook page has been posting pictures from this thread. I just found the picture of my incomplete build on there and people have been going nuts blaming me for shoddy, incomplete work and trying to figure out if the fans were on intake/exhaust


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hey guys, putting on one of my 780 classy blocks, just curious if i need to put thermal pads on this area in the red
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i remember the little booklet showing that entire area covered, but i dont remember if i covered those up on my 780 classy or not last time.


on my Asus 780s, the pads weren't cut to fit the entire area between the squarew things and the round thingies.... but directions said to cover. Im pretty sure this is a "generic" guide



And if EKs reading .... would be nice if we could find these things on ya site or, once found if ya could save it HD.... I have saved them but they won't open from HD, I can only access / find on FCPU website

Link to Classy one ... looks like ya answer there









http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868492.pdf


----------



## szeged

lol i had to redo the waterblock three times, first because i accidentally forgot the thermal paste on the die, second to fix that thermal pad issue, third because i look over and the O rings that go under the steel plate were sitting on the table instead of in the block because i had to replace the acrylic top that arrived cracked....finally got it in 100% and if i wake up in the middle of the night and remember something else i forgot about the block, im going to shoot my face off.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> lol i had to redo the waterblock three times, first because i accidentally forgot the thermal paste on the die, second to fix that thermal pad issue, third because i look over and the O rings that go under the steel plate were sitting on the table instead of in the block because i had to replace the acrylic top that arrived cracked....finally got it in 100% and if i wake up in the middle of the night and remember something else i forgot about the block, im going to shoot my face off.


Haha that's when you know you should just make a mental checklist before putting it all together.







Happens to all of us though. I've had times where I had to redo tubing because I routed the tubing into the out-ports of my old universal GPU blocks, when it should have be in-ports.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol so I was checking up my facebook account and I noticed the EK facebook page has been posting pictures from this thread. I just found the picture of my incomplete build on there and people have been going nuts blaming me for shoddy, incomplete work and trying to figure out if the fans were on intake/exhaust


C'mon geggeg .... ya making us all look bad .... get off the stick will ya :0

I'll come down to Houston and help ya finish if you come up to Long Island and help w/ my sleeving


----------



## VSG

ROFL I think I managed to calm everyone down though, but then I noticed the same guys bashing Skupples for his "cable management" because he had no cables attached


----------



## JackNaylorPE

So completely hidden cables is now a bad thing ?


----------



## VSG

Well no, he literally had no cables attached


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Simple fine hack saw blade will do the trick .... could even wrap tape around it if ya don't have anything to put in in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gotta be a cuz, neighbor around with a power tool....or given your location, ask superman to cut with x-ray vision


If only I knew it would be so easy









You do not apply any type of wax/polish to the end after cutting or sand it or something?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Well when joining tube into fittings I bevel the tube edges on the outside so that it goes in past the fitting O-Rings easy. .... then I debur the inside edge and finally dip the tube in some water and rub on a piece of black (designed for wetsanding) 320 grit sandpaper .... since your end isn't going anywhere, the sandpaper shud suffice.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Inner-Outer-Reamer-HDX085/204218601#


----------



## kpoeticg

In case anybody didn't notice from EK's FB page....



Can anybody from EK tell me why you decided to replace the ROG Logo Heatsink on this one? There's no PLX under it this time, so i figured the block would just be SB & VRM's. Is there still something there that needs to be actively cooled?


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> In case anybody didn't notice from EK's FB page....
> 
> 
> Can anybody from EK tell me why you decided to replace the ROG Logo Heatsink on this one? There's no PLX under it this time, so i figured the block would just be SB & VRM's. Is there still something there that needs to be actively cooled?


.....And bending those rigid acrylic tubes in my build is going to suck! But it will definitely look cool with all my other blocks!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> .....And bending those rigid acrylic tubes in my build is going to suck! But it will definitely look cool with all my other blocks!


Well Monsoon just made bending acrylic tubing 1000x easier for anybody that buys their new kit.....


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well Monsoon just made bending acrylic tubing 1000x easier for anybody that buys their new kit.....


Can't you get all this from a home depot/lowes ?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Can anybody from EK tell me why you decided to replace the ROG Logo Heatsink on this one? There's no PLX under it this time, so i figured the block would just be SB & VRM's. Is there still something there that needs to be actively cooled?


There was no PLX underneath that cooler last time on the ASUS R4E as well. It's for the fittings - where else would you route fitting w/o sacrificing PCI-Express slots expandability?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:
Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK* 

Quote:
Originally Posted by *kpoeticg* 

Well Monsoon just made bending acrylic tubing 1000x easier for anybody that buys their new kit.....

Can't you get all this from a home depot/lowes ?









Well you can get the heatgun and saw from lowes. The rest of it seems pretty specialized to me. You can definitely get the stuff to make something similar, which is what everybody had to do til now. The radius bending kit is pretty sweet though. I don't think there's anything at home depot or lowes that would come close to the bending jigs as far as being perfectly made for bending specific diameter acrylic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr* 



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Can anybody from EK tell me why you decided to replace the ROG Logo Heatsink on this one? There's no PLX under it this time, so i figured the block would just be SB & VRM's. Is there still something there that needs to be actively cooled?








> There was no PLX underneath that cooler last time on the ASUS R4E as well. It's for the fittings - where else would you route fitting w/o sacrificing PCI-Express slots expandability?


Hrmmm, coulda sworm the Vanilla RIVE had it's main PLX chip under that heatsink, which is the reason that all 3 heatsinks needed to be connected by heatpipes, and the logo heatsink was pretty much always the hottest one on the board. And I thought that was the reason there's no heatpipes connecting the logo heatsink on the BE. Maybe i'm mistaken but i was pretty sure about that

Anyway, what you said about the ports makes perfect sense. I didn't look at it from that perspective.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> In case anybody didn't notice from EK's FB page....
> 
> 
> Can anybody from EK tell me why you decided to replace the ROG Logo Heatsink on this one? There's no PLX under it this time, so i figured the block would just be SB & VRM's. Is there still something there that needs to be actively cooled?


It´s easy to tell, there is no other way out with the fittings, between the graphics cards never ever possible.
It's the best place, the same place as by the RIVE. Top !


----------



## Egami

I'm not sure if anyone's ever done this before but...



Thought I'd do something a little different with my EK solution


----------



## VSG

Wait what's going on over there at the GPUs?


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well Monsoon just made bending acrylic tubing 1000x easier for anybody that buys their new kit.....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well you can get the heatgun and saw from lowes. The rest of it seems pretty specialized to me. You can definitely get the stuff to make something similar, which is what everybody had to do til now. The radius bending kit is pretty sweet though. I don't think there's anything at home depot or lowes that would come close to the bending jigs as far as being perfectly made for bending specific diameter acrylic.


I actually purchased the 1/2" Monsoon "blue kit" w/the heatgun. For me it saved me a few bucks. The cheapest heatgun I could find was $20 locally plus having to search for each bending jig was a pin and after shipping was the same if not more. So I figured why not get the kit since it's one and done and has a nice case for storage.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Wait what's going on over there at the GPUs?


I may have decided to plumb between them...

Going to do be bringing the tubes out from the right and show them the turbo lift through the middle plate.


----------



## VSG

I considered that, even had fittings installed at one stage. But then the EK chipset block threw all my plans in disarray. I think it will go very nicely with the clean themed build you got going on.


----------



## Egami

Thanks geggeg! Them latest chipset blocks do encourage some proper plumbing acrobatics to get things neatly.


----------



## VSG

Tell me about it, I have a weird contraption consisting of 2 x Bitspower 50mm extenders, a rotary 90 elbow fitting and a Koolance QD3 set from in between my dual GPU setup.


----------



## WiSK

Anyone know exact measurements for the EK-CSQ 90 degree rotaries? Thanks!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> It´s easy to tell, there is no other way out with the fittings, between the graphics cards never ever possible.
> It's the best place, the same place as by the RIVE. Top !


Yeah, i understand. I just never "saw" it before Ek_tiborr said it. It makes perfect sense now that i notice it


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> It´s easy to tell, there is no other way out with the fittings, between the graphics cards never ever possible.
> It's the best place, the same place as by the RIVE. Top !


On that point .... what the did with the M6F block kinda baffled me..... tho if ya wanted to do that heat sink, w/ the armor, not like ya had any choice.


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Anyone know exact measurements for the EK-CSQ 90 degree rotaries? Thanks!


Thank me please


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Thank me please


Jolly good


----------



## RAFFY

@EK_tiborrr Does EK by chance sell any copper washers to that fit M3 screws?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> @EK_tiborrr Does EK by chance sell any copper washers to that fit M3 screws?


Or the nuts that are missing from the GPU block backplate packages ... I went to hardware store and found silver ones but as an OCN'er (Obsessive Compulsive Nerd) not having matching black ones keeps me up at nights


----------



## tiborrr12

No copper washers, sorry.

Which backplate is missing washers?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> No copper washers, sorry.
> 
> Which backplate is missing washers?


Actually I have 3 EK WBs in current build and every one of them was missing hardware









1. I bought an Asus 780 DCII and EK WB and Backplate .... the WB is the "Clean" nickel one w/ no WK logo circles that is shorter than the other two, finishing about 1" short of end of PCB. Assembled and when installing backplate which is an inch longer than the WB, instructions said to secure the two screws at the far right (as when installed in case) with the provided M3 nuts .... there were no provided nuts so went out and bought some silver ones as couldn't find matching black.

Used that one to confirm fit of all items with 2 cards in place and ordered remaining components. Advised both EK and FCPU of missing items suggesting that as their vendor they inform you guys accordingly.

2. Second order included CPU Block as well as 2nd WB / BP for 23nd 780 DCII. They were outta stock on backplates so hadda wait for new shipment arrived.... thought, "well at least the new shipment should have those nuts since we told everyone about it", Nope







Went back to hardware store and got more silver nuts .... again told EK and FCPU."

3. Went to install Supremacy block and it only had 3 of the 4 plastic washers. FCPU sent me some EK replacement washers" they had in stock....0.8mm according to their web site .... but ya instructions said they were supposed to be 0.70 .... so I used caliper to measure .... they were something like 0.84, 0.89 and 0.93 .....well I hope that 0.80 was OK cause FCPUs replacements were all 0.80 and that was better than having each with a different thickness.

So when I take my loop down for general maintenance at some point in the future.... I hope I can get my hands on some black M3 nuts so I can start sleeping thru the night w/o dreaming about my inconsistent hardware


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Actually I have 3 EK WBs in current build and every one of them was missing hardware
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. I bought an Asus 780 DCII and EK WB and Backplate .... the WB is the "Clean" nickel one w/ no WK logo circles that is shorter than the other two, finishing about 1" short of end of PCB. Assembled and when installing backplate which is an inch longer than the WB, instructions said to secure the two screws at the far right (as when installed in case) with the provided M3 nuts .... there were no provided nuts so went out and bought some silver ones as couldn't find matching black.
> 
> Used that one to confirm fit of all items with 2 cards in place and ordered remaining components. Advised both EK and FCPU of missing items suggesting that as their vendor they inform you guys accordingly.
> 
> 2. Second order included CPU Block as well as 2nd WB / BP for 23nd 780 DCII. They were outta stock on backplates so hadda wait for new shipment arrived.... thought, "well at least the new shipment should have those nuts since we told everyone about it", Nope
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went back to hardware store and got more silver nuts .... again told EK and FCPU."
> 
> 3. Went to install Supremacy block and it only had 3 of the 4 plastic washers. FCPU sent me some EK replacement washers" they had in stock....0.8mm according to their web site .... but ya instructions said they were supposed to be 0.70 .... so I used caliper to measure .... they were something like 0.84, 0.89 and 0.93 .....well I hope that 0.80 was OK cause FCPUs replacements were all 0.80 and that was better than having each with a different thickness.
> 
> So when I take my loop down for general maintenance at some point in the future.... I hope I can get my hands on some black M3 nuts so I can start sleeping thru the night w/o dreaming about my inconsistent hardware


I believe that those two screws for the backplate are actually shipped as part of the Block. I just received 3-780Ti blocks and backplates, and the backplate instructions clearly state that if the block isn't full length, then use the included nuts and bolts that came with the block just for this purposes.

Here is a poor photo of that spot in the instructions of my backplate. I'm not sure if this is the same situation as you, but my standard 780 (non-Ti) blocks were the same way and they came with the screws for that, the backplates didn't.


----------



## wermad

What's the eta on the Rampage BE block? I know, I know, its been asked many times but I'm about to order a new mb and it may be the BE.


----------



## VSG

Last I heard was Jan on facebook.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Last I heard was Jan on facebook.


Thank you


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I believe that those two screws for the backplate are actually shipped as part of the Block. I just received 3-780Ti blocks and backplates, and the backplate instructions clearly state that if the block isn't full length, then use the included nuts and bolts that came with the block just for this purposes.
> 
> Here is a poor photo of that spot in the instructions of my backplate. I'm not sure if this is the same situation as you, but my standard 780 (non-Ti) blocks were the same way and they came with the screws for that, the backplates didn't


No nutz in either package .... if ya don't buy the backplate, the nuts have no use.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868430.pdf
Quote:


> STEP 4:
> ATTACHING EK - FC780 GTX DCII BACKPLATE TO THE GRAPHICS CARD
> 
> Take *enclosed* mounting screws and install them as shown on picture below
> .
> EKWB recommends users to start with six(6) M3x8 DIN 7991 or four(4) M3x8 D IN 7991 and two(2) M3x10 DIN 7991 screws
> ,


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> No nutz in either package .... if ya don't buy the backplate, the nuts have no use.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868430.pdf


That sucks, they are different, my blocks included the 2 nuts, bolts and washers for the backplate in a separate baggy in with the blocks other accessories.

Sorry to hear your parts are missing.


----------



## wermad

Are there still plans for a z87 classified block?


----------



## Georgey123

Few EK goodies:


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Are there still plans for a z87 classified block?


If you go to the EK website it'll tell you. Just search for your motherboard, no release dates but it'll say if they plan to make one or not.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Actually I have 3 EK WBs in current build and every one of them was missing hardware
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. I bought an Asus 780 DCII and EK WB and Backplate .... the WB is the "Clean" nickel one w/ no WK logo circles that is shorter than the other two, finishing about 1" short of end of PCB. Assembled and when installing backplate which is an inch longer than the WB, instructions said to secure the two screws at the far right (as when installed in case) with the provided M3 nuts .... there were no provided nuts so went out and bought some silver ones as couldn't find matching black.


780 DCII should have nuts as a part of the backplate package. I'll check tomorrow to see if that's a widespread issue.


----------



## Ragsters

Here are some of my EK products:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> If you go to the EK website it'll tell you. Just search for your motherboard, no release dates but it'll say if they plan to make one or not.


They have polls to inquire/gauge interest but that's it. The Z87 was back in the summer and there's no news on it. Which if it makes it to their news, its probably on its way. It don't matter since i just plunked a ton of money on the Black Edition Rampage. Here's hoping the BE block is out in a few weeks (or months







).



edit: I'm cool waiting since I no longer have the annoying wine of a pch hsf.


----------



## tiborrr12

EK-FB KIT ASUS R4BE will be out on Tuesday (in two days). Tomorrow we'll do some product shots and assemble first batch and will start selling on Tuesday. Same goes for EK-FB ASUS M6I.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> EK-FB KIT ASUS R4BE will be out on Tuesday (in two days). Tomorrow we'll do some product shots and assemble first batch and will start selling on Tuesday. Same goes for EK-FB ASUS M6I.


eta for the blocks arrival to resellers in the USA?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> EK-FB KIT ASUS R4BE will be out on Tuesday (in two days). Tomorrow we'll do some product shots and assemble first batch and will start selling on Tuesday. Same goes for EK-FB ASUS M6I.


Cool beans









I do expect crop circles acetal with Ni to match my other stuff







. Have shipments to your Us retailers gone out already?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Cool beans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do expect crop circles acetal with Ni to match my other stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . *Have shipments to your Us retailers gone out already?*


I'm just assuming that if he said they were Assembling the first batch tomorrow that they have NOT already sent any to US retailers.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> EK-FB KIT ASUS R4BE will be out on Tuesday (in two days). Tomorrow we'll do some product shots and assemble first batch and will start selling on Tuesday. Same goes for EK-FB ASUS M6I.


Hello sir, do we have an estimated retail on the M6I blocks? That's the last part I need to build my Mercury S3 build.


----------



## tiborrr12

No, I believe US resellers will have those blocks around January 6th-10th. We might ship some out on Monday, Dec 30th and 31st but don't count on that. Holiday season, please let us rest a bit.

We also have an inventory check right after New Year so expect slow shipment / slow replies first couple of days after NY.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> No, I believe US resellers will have those blocks around January 6th-10th. We might ship some out on Monday, Dec 30th and 31st but don't count on that. Holiday season, please let us rest a bit.
> 
> We also have an inventory check right after New Year so expect slow shipment / slow replies first couple of days after NY.


Happy Holidays to you and the rest of the folks at EK, thank you for the excellent products. Looking forward to see what you all come up with next year!!

And thank you for the updates, looking forward to the M6I blocks once they get to the U.S.!


----------



## Akula

Buildlog - http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/73352-project-armada-watercooled-define-r4-titanium-ek-waterblocks-completed-final-photos/


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Buildlog - http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/73352-project-armada-watercooled-define-r4-titanium-ek-waterblocks-completed-final-photos/


very clean looking build.


----------



## Egami

There's something about that particular colour that makes me thirsty every time I see that build.

Other than that, that azure shade's just gorgeously crispy.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> 780 DCII should have nuts as a part of the backplate package. I'll check tomorrow to see if that's a widespread issue.


I figured it was an aberration but as both backplates were from different ocean crossing shipments, figured it must be more widespread .... just wanted someone to know so ya cud sort out.

But if ya wanna tell "da boss" that I insisted you come over to the states for two weeks so ya could personally replace the silver ones with black ones, and then travel the country looking for others who in same situation, I'll go along with it :0


----------



## neSSa

Dear EK_tiborrr, I plan to create a quad fire with Asus R9 280x DC2T, if by any chance you are planning to make a water block for it?


----------



## tiborrr12

Yes, it's in the works. Expect it early-mid January: http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1204


----------



## neSSa

Thank you for your quick response, thanks to you i can continue with my work


----------



## tiborrr12

R4BE blocks photographed, some stock already done. Launch in the morning most likely. Haven't done any photos on M6I yet, most likely in the morning.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> R4BE blocks photographed, some stock already done. Launch in the morning most likely. Haven't done any photos on M6I yet, most likely in the morning.


I'm gonna camp EK site now!


----------



## Ovrclck

So I just purchased the EK-FC Bridge dual serial CSQ and just realized that I need the FC-link. Does anyone have the link to the correct link?
The FC-780 GTX classy does not come with them.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> So I just purchased the EK-FC Bridge dual serial CSQ and just realized that I need the FC-link. Does anyone have the link to the correct link?
> The FC-780 GTX classy does not come with them.


There's two gpu block versions, CSQ and CSQ "Clean". If your gpu blocks are "Clean" then you need a "Clean" bridge now referred to as "Terminals". They don't require a link, just removing the port adapter. If you bought the CSQ version with the circles all over the place, that bridge is for the CSQ blocks w/ the circles all over the place. These blocks include a right angle adapter/link to connect them to the CSQ circle bridges.

Do you have a link to the exact blocks you got and the bridge?


----------



## VSG

Umm.. The FC 780 Classy uses the EK Terminal system and is not compatible with the Link and Bridge system (mostly only for the Original CSQ blocks now).


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> So I just purchased the EK-FC Bridge dual serial CSQ and just realized that I need the FC-link. Does anyone have the link to the correct link?
> The FC-780 GTX classy does not come with them.


here


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's two gpu block versions, CSQ and CSQ "Clean". If your gpu blocks are "Clean" then you need a "Clean" bridge now referred to as "Terminals". They don't require a link, just removing the port adapter. If you bought the CSQ version with the circles all over the place, that bridge is for the CSQ blocks w/ the circles all over the place. These blocks include a right angle adapter/link to connect them to the CSQ circle bridges.
> 
> Do you have a link to the exact blocks you got and the bridge?


There is no original CSQ version of the 780 Classy waterblock, so the Link and Bridge won't work.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There is no original CSQ version of the 780 Classy waterblock, so the Link and Bridge won't work.


Yup, know that, I didn't specifically say that. I just gave some general guidelines. Sorry for the confusion









I guess the rule of thumb should be:

Crop circle blocks + crop circle bridges

Clean blocks + clean bridges.


----------



## VSG

Clean blocks + clean terminals


----------



## wermad

"Bridges" is a general term used for many bridge system including from other manufacturers. EK calls the clean bridges "terminals" to further distinguish them from the CSQ crop circle variants. They did change the name of the old "fc-bridges" to "classic bridges" (just like "classic" fc blocks). Those first gen brides were finiky. The CSQ circle ones are improvement but the "terminals" are the best. Pretty much like the lovely HK bridges


----------



## Ovrclck

The classy block says clean CSQ. Looks like clean terminals it is. I guess I should have paid closer attention.


----------



## King4x4

Sad thing about the terminals is that they don't come in plexi.

The original CSQ Quad Link is sexy!


----------



## derickwm

We're working on methods to bring the Terminals in plexi.


----------



## King4x4

Now I am interested.

Was looking at the CSQ blocks but if I can have terminal based connection it will be better.









That Quad Link Plexi with some lights thrown in... HNNNNNNG!


----------



## wermad

BE block, where art thou?!?!?!?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> BE block, where art thou?!?!?!?


Im camping the site right now...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> In case anybody didn't notice from EK's FB page....
> 
> 
> Can anybody from EK tell me why you decided to replace the ROG Logo Heatsink on this one? There's no PLX under it this time, so i figured the block would just be SB & VRM's. Is there still something there that needs to be actively cooled?


Just catching up after a long weekend troubleshooting my setup. Lga2011 has 40 lanes so it technically doesn't need a plx to run three or for way. A pch block would force the fittings between the graphics cards. This way you clear the pcie slots.

I'm sure this was covered already









My monies is ready, just waiting on a US retailer to stock em.


----------



## derickwm

R4BE is available, I imagine it'll hit US retailers next week or depending on their holiday schedules, early January.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> R4BE is available, I imagine it'll hit US retailers next week or depending on their holiday schedules, early January.


Eta on crop circles?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> R4BE is available, I imagine it'll hit US retailers next week or depending on their holiday schedules, early January.


I just ordered mine directly from EK. Just in time for my acrylic tubing project.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> R4BE is available, I imagine it'll hit US retailers next week or depending on their holiday schedules, early January.
> 
> 
> 
> Eta on crop circles?
Click to expand...

Early January after holiday breaks. (schedule on our website)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Early January after holiday breaks. (schedule on our website)


Kewl kewl


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> R4BE is available, I imagine it'll hit US retailers next week or depending on their holiday schedules, early January.


And the blocks are gone









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We're working on methods to bring the Terminals in plexi.


Any ETA? Finishing an order from EKWB and might wait a bit if there is an ETA.

pssst... Guinea Pig reporting in.


----------



## tiborrr12

No ETA yet, too much other stuff. In the meantime I can recommend EK-HD Adapter & Tube system.


----------



## King4x4

All ready in the basket.

Get ready for a big order on the 28th!


----------



## tiborrr12

Will launch M6I after new year, enough work for this year for me. We have some 50 pcs assembled but will launch next year. No point in launching this year when there's no one here to ship out.


----------



## jokrik

just ordered! 3 days DHL service for the RIVBE blocks
man my wallet is crying now


----------



## saer

Got my order in for the RIVBE block


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> just ordered! 3 days DHL service for the RIVBE blocks
> man my wallet is crying now


3day UPS was my only choice for 45 USD :-(


----------



## omegasama

HI , i am currently under a stress :s , am flushing my Rads for my build , but one of my 480 rads is soooo damn dirty that i dont know when it will clean up , I have been flushing it for more than 6 hours now , and it is still dirty as you can see on the picture . But note that i havent change the water ( it is deionized water BTW ) , any advise/help are strongly appreciate





BTW , on the picture the first one is cotton wool , and the second is a coffee filter . It is an "automated " filter that i made at home to flush my rads while am away , i saw a video on YouTube about that.

Regards


----------



## wermad

When i discovered EK in 2009, they're shipping was ~$15. I used to order a ton of stuff from them. Alas, no more







.

Im waiting, since circles are not out yet and I rather pay a bit less from a US retailer (shipping). Helps to rehabilitate my wallet after buying the Rampage BE


----------



## tiborrr12

Look, you cannot pin high shipping costs on us. It is simply rude and unfair. You also forgot about the oil price going up in the last four years.

This year alone we bit the bullet and swallow the 13k EUR in shipping costs because some courier broke the contract and charged us higher than we charged you.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 3day UPS was my only choice for 45 USD :-(


I hope you all read our news we've been posting lately, including the R4BE news:
http://www.ekwb.com/news/439/19/Merry-Christmas-and-a-Happy-New-Year/
Quote:


> Please mind the limited New Year's working schedule.


----------



## kcuestag

Honestly shipping prices seem fair to me... 15€ for 3-5 day and ~30-40€ for 1 day shipping, this is from Slovenia to Spain, seems pretty acceptable to me. The other way around it would probably cost me 3 times more.









Merry Christmas everyone, hoping I can order another R9 290(X) Nickel waterblock within a week!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Look, you cannot pin high shipping costs on us. It is simply rude and unfair. You also forgot about the oil price going up in the last four years.
> 
> This year alone we bit the bullet and swallow the 13k EUR in shipping costs because some courier broke the contract and charged us higher than we charged you.


Hmmm....this one lacks customer service skills....me thinks....hmmmmmm (yoda).

Take it from someone who has been in customer service for 15 years, don't call your customers rude. Tiborr, you lack a lot of customer service skills just watching your responses which begs the question why even bother? Derick does a much better job. I would consult w/ him on tips on avoid being too rude yourself


















edit: a better response: "Sorry guys, the cost of shipping and doing things naturally goes up. Fuel price surges and other events don't help. This is the best we can do for our customers outside the EU. Thanks!"

I should get compensated for this


----------



## tiborrr12

Again, I am not customer relations person, Derick is. I think I have said it at least a dozen times so far. I'm here to help out on technical questions, maybe some logistical ones but that's about it. Since I'm an R&D I will talk facts, not cotton candy.

I find it stupid to pretend to be nice and servant when I'm really not that patient when it comes to crazy conspiracy theories, outrageous assumptions or just plain BS feeding (yes, I have to listen to a lot of RMA claims since one needs to oversee the complete situation. You wouldn't believe what people try to push through).

My trigger is therefore more on the light side. Cotton-gloves approach to everyone here would just preoccupy the rest of my time I rather spend working on new products. If you want your water cooling gear done (more or less) on time you will have to excuse my bluntness and just deal with it since I do more or less everything.

P.S.: We're all buddies here, why the need for such sterile CS approach?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Again, I am not customer relations person, Derick is. I think I have said it at least a dozen times so far. I'm here to help out on technical questions, maybe some logistical ones but that's about it. Since I'm an R&D I will talk facts, not cotton candy.
> 
> I find it stupid to pretend to be nice and servant when I'm really not that patient when it comes to crazy conspiracy theories, outrageous assumptions or just plain BS feeding (yes, I have to listen to a lot of RMA claims since one needs to oversee the complete situation. You wouldn't believe what people try to push through).
> 
> My trigger is therefore more on the light side. Cotton-gloves approach to everyone here would just preoccupy the rest of my time I rather spend working on new products. If you want your water cooling gear done (more or less) on time you will have to excuse my bluntness and just deal with it since I do more or less everything.
> 
> P.S.: We're all buddies here, why the need for such sterile CS approach?


I do technical support for a large cable company. You have to wear the same mask







. You're still representing the same company.

post deleted in 3...2....


----------



## wermad

Collections needs two more things (XD):



Cpu rma'ing time so I'll probably get the mb blocks in before I have working cpu









Derick, I has a mb in the works for you pal. Too bad EK didn't make a block for that one







.


----------



## WiSK

My daughter put out a mince-pie and a glass of sherry for Santa this evening.

I ate some of the mince pie and left the glass and the rest of the bottle empty next to it.

When she wakes up she will think Santa is a drunk.

I will explain that Santa ate modestly only half the cake, while Rudolf has a red nose because he had all the sherry.

The lesson is that Tiborrr brings the magic of waterblocks, but can't be blamed for international shipping prices


----------



## wermad

We all understand this whole computer business and the majority of us have to order things from somewhere else. Its inevitable. I have a local store but its expensive, they don't price match the best prices out there, and typically don't have a large selection like a giant (amazon, etc.). My concern is not the shipping prices since I understand this. I also understand the frustration behind this. *But* I also understand how a company should respond to such concerns. Regardless of their position.

A business should have every employee know in one way or another how to respond to customer's questions/concerns. Even the lowest man on the totem pole has to consider his role in the company. Now, its not saying you must know everything but you at least must know where to point the customer to the right person who can assist. In all, If you don't know or don't know how to convey that, pass them along to someone who can and just do it politely. Whether you're public relations or not, the janitor, the ceo, etc., there has to be some mannerism in the communication to use when it comes to employees interacting w/ customers or the general public. By not knowing but knowing who can, is still a great projection of the company as it shows you care even if you can't help.

Everyone pitches in. Its a group effort where the collaboration of all employee's skills and knowledge can better help the business and its customers.

My









(Still in school to get my business degree. Life throws its curve balls but you can still use the knowledge you've picked up on the way through







)

Happy Holidays folks


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> business should have every employee know in one way or another how to respond to customer's questions/concerns.


I know it's not a popular thing to say, but give me a rude guy who is honest over smiling insincerity any time.

Merry Christmas to you too!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> We all understand this whole computer business and the majority of us have to order things from somewhere else. Its inevitable. I have a local store but its expensive, they don't price match the best prices out there, and typically don't have a large selection like a giant (amazon, etc.). My concern is not the shipping prices since I understand this. I also understand the frustration behind this. *But* I also understand how a company should respond to such concerns. Regardless of their position.
> 
> A business should have every employee know in one way or another how to respond to customer's questions/concerns. Even the lowest man on the totem pole has to consider his role in the company. Now, its not saying you must know everything but you at least must know where to point the customer to the right person who can assist. In all, If you don't know or don't know how to convey that, pass them along to someone who can and just do it politely. Whether you're public relations or not, the janitor, the ceo, etc., there has to be some mannerism in the communication to use when it comes to employees interacting w/ customers or the general public. By not knowing but knowing who can, is still a great projection of the company as it shows you care even if you can't help.
> 
> Everyone pitches in. Its a group effort where the collaboration of all employee's skills and knowledge can better help the business and its customers.
> 
> My
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Still in school to get my business degree. Life throws its curve balls but you can still use the knowledge you've picked up on the way through
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Happy Holidays folks


Just going to say, that might be the case in the educational teaching at business school, but in the real world, you know that the folks involved in R&D, design engineers, and almost every Tech person have no "people" skills, if they did, they wouldn't be the best at what they do, they would be phone help desk people, and let's be honest, the help desk people pretty much suck at THAT job.

Tiborr, I'm glad your here to help with technical issues, Derrick, I'm glad your here to be a channel to the sales and other aspects and respect you both for dealing with the poop on the forums.

Have a Merry Christmas and a happy holiday season.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Just going to say, that might be the case in the educational teaching at business school, but in the real world, you know that the folks involved in R&D, design engineers, and almost every Tech person have no "people" skills, if they did, they wouldn't be the best at what they do, they would be phone help desk people, and let's be honest, the help desk people pretty much suck at THAT job.
> 
> Tiborr, I'm glad your here to help with technical issues, Derrick, I'm glad your here to be a channel to the sales and other aspects and respect you both for dealing with the poop on the forums.
> 
> Have a Merry Christmas and a happy holiday season.


If you put yourself in that position, like participating in the forums (hint hint), then you have to be prepared to handle these things. Whether you can answer them or not is up to you. The education I received has transpired quite nicely in the companies I have worked at which tells us the school is teaching in the right direction.

Someone who fails to handle a situation in the right way doesn't not deserve to be defended regardless of his/hers position in the company. As I've said, if you can't answer a question give it to someone who can. But at least have some common sense to do that not just swing it.

Large companies preach this because anyone can ruin it for the whole company. Its not a bad idea that any company will use this mantra. Again, if you don't know, just wait for someone who does or tell them where to go. That simple, don't randomly shoot in the dark if its not your domain. So, in conclusion, know your boundaries.

If you're just a tech dude with no customer service input/permissions, leave it to someone who does. The cook at the company cafe will tell customers where they can get help and not tell them off. Use that as a good example.

Also, what's this nitpicking about? Didn't I clearly establish I have some customer service experience? Why not help someone else out that can benefit from it? Isn't this a community that can go above and beyond computers? Or do we just shelter our short comings







.

My shift is almost over, so my volleyball match here will have to come to an end soon gents








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I know it's not a popular thing to say, but give me a rude guy who is honest over smiling insincerity any time.
> 
> Merry Christmas to you too!


Business cultures can differ like traditional cultures but there has to be some sort of respect here. And that's what I'm preaching. Don't bite the hand that feeds you. I know this, as i work for a company, you work for someone or own your own business, etc. Too keep feeding into bad habits will eventually lead to more sour moments. Especially when you represent a company selling to the audience.

Happy Christmas


----------



## omegasama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omegasama*
> 
> HI , i am currently under a stress :s , am flushing my Rads for my build , but one of my 480 rads is soooo damn dirty that i dont know when it will clean up , I have been flushing it for more than 6 hours now , and it is still dirty as you can see on the picture . But note that i havent change the water ( it is deionized water BTW ) , any advise/help are strongly appreciate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW , on the picture the first one is cotton wool , and the second is a coffee filter . It is an "automated " filter that i made at home to flush my rads while am away , i saw a video on YouTube about that.
> 
> Regards


Can someone please take a look at my problem please


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omegasama*
> 
> Can someone please take a look at my problem please


Sorry, Mea Culpa for ranting on









I was suggested a diluted mix of vinegar and di water. You want a 1 to 10 ratio of vinegar (white) to water. I used a bit to really flush out the old pastel color in my rads. Then i did some more flushing w/ the hot water tap of my bathroom faucet. Finally, some more rinsing w/ di water.

Hope it helps


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omegasama*
> 
> Can someone please take a look at my problem please


Have you flushing only with water ?

Make a special water mix with cillit bang power cleaner and deionized water.
1:3 1 time cillit bang power cleaner and 3 times deionized water,
then flushing is better i do this every time i have to flush a radiator and works very well.


----------



## wermad

If you don't have access to vinegar right away, hook up one rad at a time to the hot tap on your faucet for a quick flushing method.


----------



## omegasama

Thanks for the tips guys !


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I hope you all read our news we've been posting lately, including the R4BE news:
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/439/19/Merry-Christmas-and-a-Happy-New-Year/


We read it, yet 3 day shipping was the only option. It's no biggie, but there should definitely be more options.

Merry X mas to everyone!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Derick, I has a mb in the works for you pal. Too bad EK didn't make a block for that one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


?

As far as shipping is concerned, if you absolutely cannot wait, then pay it. Our webshop isn't the biggest focus to us, our retailers are. There's a reason that retailers exist.

On a personal level, not my opinion as an EK Rep. I pay about $20-30 USD from PPCs to ship from Florida to Seattle and it takes about 7 - 10 days to arrive. You pay $30-$50 for EK and DHL Express gets it there in a couple days.

Yes, shipping is expensive, but if you want to pay less shipping, then have some patience and order from your local stores. People ask and ask and ask for us to release our products as soon as possible and yes it takes an additional week OR SO to get a big order together to send to PPCs or Frozen OCuk etc, but if you need the item now, then don't complain about the higher shipping prices. Impatience comes with a price.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays everyone, do note our limited hours for the next 10 days.


----------



## omegasama

Hi, guys ive been flushing it for so long now , and it still have dirt in the rads , i dont know what to do now







. i dont have any clean coffee filter at the moment, tomorrow i will flush it again with Tap water + vinegar , will see what happen next


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omegasama*
> 
> Hi, guys ive been flushing it for so long now , and it still have dirt in the rads , i dont know what to do now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . i dont have any clean coffee filter at the moment, tomorrow i will flush it again with Tap water + vinegar , will see what happen next


Did you buy these new?


----------



## omegasama

yes they are brand new , i bought them from EKWB directly . I think also that it is an old stuff , my other 240 rad does not come like this when i flush it


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Anyone have any tricks of aligning the multioption top and bot for a EK X3 RES? Seems however way I try to align it I can not get top and bottom to match


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omegasama*
> 
> yes they are brand new , i bought them from EKWB directly . I think also that it is an old stuff , my other 240 rad does not come like this when i flush it


Give EK a shout via their Ticket system I am sure they'll look into it for you.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omegasama*
> 
> Hi, guys ive been flushing it for so long now , and it still have dirt in the rads , i dont know what to do now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . i dont have any clean coffee filter at the moment, tomorrow i will flush it again with Tap water + vinegar , will see what happen next


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omegasama*
> 
> Can someone please take a look at my problem please


Back to EK something must not be ! Good Luck with there Support but it shout be good


----------



## omegasama

i will wait for them before flushing with water + vinegar . But i think that support will be back online in January maybe :/


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omegasama*
> 
> i will wait for them before flushing with water + vinegar . But i think that support will be back online in January maybe :/


Are you doing boiling tap water? Will with boiling water. Let set for 5 minutes. Shake. Drain. Repeat. Then after it is finally clean rince w/ distilled. You don't need filters or anything like that.


----------



## omegasama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Are you doing boiling tap water? Will with boiling water. Let set for 5 minutes. Shake. Drain. Repeat. Then after it is finally clean rince w/ distilled. You don't need filters or anything like that.


No , i have been flushing only with distill water so far , am waiting EK support to answer my ticket to go further , it is stressing me so much at the moment :/


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omegasama*
> 
> No , i have been flushing only with distill water so far , am waiting EK support to answer my ticket to go further , it is stressing me so much at the moment :/


With room temperature water? That really won't do a thing. Use boiling water.


----------



## omegasama

Yep with room temperature , ok i will try with boiling water tomorrow as i need to buy some distill water. Will post updates accordingly . Thanks


----------



## lowfat

You can just use tap water for cleaning out the radiator. Just do the final rinse w/ distilled.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omegasama*
> 
> Yep with room temperature , ok i will try with boiling water tomorrow as i need to buy some distill water. Will post updates accordingly . Thanks


Please don't boil DISTILLED water, it won't be visibly boiling till you go to pour it into your rad, and then will spit water (VERY hot water) everywhere.

Just use boiling TAP water, once the rad is clean, then do a rinse with room temp distilled water at the end.


----------



## szeged

tryin to get some decent shots of my builds current progress using EK blocks, but cant take the rig outside for sunlight because "the sunshine state" is the biggest joke ever, and my inside lights are flickering lol.


----------



## Ryanboost

Will a back plate be made specifically for the GTX 780 Ti Classified?

I understand the normal GTX 780 Classified back plate will fit but I'm looking to find out if a Ti one is in the works before I purchase anything.

Thanks!


----------



## VSG

I don't suppose there is any chance the EVGA 780 TI classy (regular or kingpin) will have a block that covers the entire PCB, will it?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I don't suppose there is any chance the EVGA 780 TI classy (regular or kingpin) will have a block that covers the entire PCB, will it?


No, there are no mounting holes available at the very end of the circuit board, apart from the one next to PCIe power connectors which is useless.


----------



## VSG

Thanks, Tiborr. I appreciate the promptness over the holidays. Do you have any insider info on the launch of the Kingpin version by the way?


----------



## ikem

so i got my Supremacy VGA blocks and a Dual parallel bridge. The bolts on the bridge are to long, or the threading the blocks are to shallow... when i tighten it, it isnt even close to being sealed.

anyone have this problem?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> so i got my Supremacy VGA blocks and a Dual parallel bridge. The bolts on the bridge are to long, or the threading the blocks are to shallow... when i tighten it, it isnt even close to being sealed.
> 
> anyone have this problem?


got a dremel or saw? cut em to length


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> got a dremel or saw? cut em to length


that is what i am going to do.. but i was just wondering lol

mmm polished.


----------



## szeged

mm sexy, love the hawk cards and the polish job you did on the block


----------



## derickwm

Post some more pics, the wrong size may have been packed.


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Post some more pics, the wrong size may have been packed.


I will post some when i get home. but i got 2 M4x25mm bolts.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> tryin to get some decent shots of my builds current progress using EK blocks, but cant take the rig outside for sunlight because "the sunshine state" is the biggest joke ever, and my inside lights are flickering lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks awesome







Not going w/ the mb block?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not going w/ the mb block?


I will soon, gotta tear down this loop and redo some bends anyways lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I will soon, gotta tear down this loop and redo some bends anyways lol


Lol, know what you mean on the bends. I went through 24' of acrylic and was still not happy. I guess had there been a bending kit back then, it would have been a different story







.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, know what you mean on the bends. I went through 24' of acrylic and was still not happy. I guess had there been a bending kit back then, it would have been a different story
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


lol







i went through about 12 feet for what you saw there lol, the bending kit was very helpful, but other than helping get some straighter bends it all came down to how well you know to measure and calculate, luckily i do this kind of work on a large scale every day for work


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> My daughter put out a mince-pie and a glass of sherry for Santa this evening.
> 
> I ate some of the mince pie and left the glass and the rest of the bottle empty next to it.
> 
> When she wakes up she will think Santa is a drunk.
> 
> I will explain that Santa ate modestly only half the cake, while Rudolf has a red nose because he had all the sherry.


My youngest son started getting iffy about Santa Claus ... heard stories "on the bus" to school and I figured the best way to break the news was as follows.......

Had a bottle of Bailey's Irish Cream out serving company earlier and when I hinted that "Imagine if we left this out and Santa drank this by mistake .... ha ha .... he'd prolly pass out or forget what eh was doing and leave the whole bag of toys here .... but maybe if we leave him a little nip it will warm him up".... later on I asked him to pour some Bailey's ..... let's just say he was good, just poured him a little nip....didn't try to get Santa drunk so he cud get all the toys.....he did leave the bottle out tho.

Now the other necessary part of the story is that when I bartended, I had a full pro level Santa suit .... so next morning he woke up to find Santa passed out on the floor clutching the bag o' toys in one hand and an empty bottle of Baileys in the other.

He ran upstairs to get his older brothers and told them they needed to make coffee ..... they suggested to him "don't ya wanna grab the big bag of toys first .... but he said no, then the other kids who didnt get any will have a bad Xmas.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omegasama*
> 
> Hi, guys ive been flushing it for so long now , and it still have dirt in the rads , i dont know what to do now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . i dont have any clean coffee filter at the moment, tomorrow i will flush it again with Tap water + vinegar , will see what happen next


Here's my method ......

1. Quick fill in sink .... shakey, shakey, drain

2. F ill with 15% vinegar solution and hot water .... let sit 6 hours or overnight

3. Flush with alternating hot and cold water (5 minutes hot / 5 cold) , direct faucet connection with one of these doohickeys for about 30 minutes

http://www.amazon.com/Python-Aquarium-Gravel-Extension-10-Feet/dp/B0002DHZ9Y/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_2

4. Fill with DW, let sit over nite.

5. Flush with DI next day, and install


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> that is what i am going to do.. but i was just wondering lol
> 
> mmm polished.


Bp makes spacers just for this kind of problems









http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=26765


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Bp makes spacers just for this kind of problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=26765


He's looking to install a bridge and the bolts are too long for the vga blocks.

Probably easier to check out Home Depot or Lowes. I know they carry 16mm and 20mm M4 screws if you're lucky. They usually keep them in drawers.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> He's looking to install a bridge and the bolts are too long for the vga blocks.
> 
> Probably easier to check out Home Depot or Lowes. I know they carry 16mm and 20mm M4 screws if you're lucky. They usually keep them in drawers.


Ah, thought he wanted to use fittings









My bridge mounted perfectly when i used my universal blocks though so thats weird


----------



## Akula

*I'll give credit when credit is due.*
EK's Shipping to Australia is fantastic, normally anything international is expensive and still manages to take 2+ Weeks - EK Must have found a loophole because their pricing to AU and the turnaround time has been only a matter of days rather than weeks.

Now i face the battle, buy from a direct retailer or the manufacturer









Look forward to using EK Products in my next feature build.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Ah, thought he wanted to use fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My bridge mounted perfectly when i used my universal blocks though so thats weird


I have fc blocks and only one block is a bit resistant but everything fits like a charm. I had a massive leak when i used my first fc bridge (now called "classic bridge"). It was due to using one longer screw then required. Its been a real relief having a less complicated setup w/ CSQ and Clean bridges.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## X-oiL

Does anyone know if there's a short or long anticyclone version that comes with the EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-RES 140?


----------



## ikem

well i just cut the bolts by like 1/8 inch and they work just fine. Why did you guys add that extra bit on length on the top? it is just excessive and the new terminal bridges dont have them.

I thought about taking it to a mill and cutting off like 1/2 and re-tapping it for extra space.

Otherwise everything works great!


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> well i just cut the bolts by like 1/8 inch and they work just fine. Why did you guys add that extra bit on length on the top? it is just excessive and the new terminal bridges dont have them.
> 
> I thought about taking it to a mill and cutting off like 1/2 and re-tapping it for extra space.
> 
> Otherwise everything works great!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


fixed!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> fixed!


Lol, the reason that the top was made to stick up is that when NOT used upside down, that part just barely clears the top of a card with a backplate on it. Since your motherboard is rotated to put the cards in reverse, and you used the block technically upside down for that orientation, it was technically outside its designed use. But I'm glad that fix worked out. You have to realize that they can't build something to suit every way a person might want to build a system, and since the vast majority of cases still use the standard orientation, they won't normally cater to the lower percentage.

I've had that same problem with a couple of inverted mobo builds.


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, the reason that the top was made to stick up is that when NOT used upside down, that part just barely clears the top of a card with a backplate on it. Since your motherboard is rotated to put the cards in reverse, and you used the block technically upside down for that orientation, it was technically outside its designed use. But I'm glad that fix worked out. You have to realize that they can't build something to suit every way a person might want to build a system, and since the vast majority of cases still use the standard orientation, they won't normally cater to the lower percentage.
> 
> I've had that same problem with a couple of inverted mobo builds.


yea i totally understand. after looking at the CSQ full covers, I see why it is there, and why it really doesnt apply to me. But it works, and looks ALOT better... that tube was bothering me sooo much...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> yea i totally understand. after looking at the CSQ full covers, I see why it is there, and why it really doesnt apply to me. But it works, and looks ALOT better... that tube was bothering me sooo much...


----------



## Squashie

3D printed 140mm EK-fanguard:


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squashie*
> 
> 3D printed 140mm EK-fanguard:


carefull! they might have you for copyright?

looks cool though









I have been thinking of getting a 3d printer lately amongst other things

I cant decide what to buy though? a 3d printer/ a CNC/or a BGA rework station?

choices choices


----------



## omegasama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> M
> 
> 1. Quick fill in sink .... shakey, shakey, drain
> 
> 2. F ill with 15% vinegar solution and hot water .... let sit 6 hours or overnight
> 
> 3. Flush with alternating hot and cold water (5 minutes hot / 5 cold) , direct faucet connection with one of these doohickeys for about 30 minutes
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Python-Aquarium-Gravel-Extension-10-Feet/dp/B0002DHZ9Y/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_2
> 
> 4. Fill with DW, let sit over nite.
> 
> 5. Flush with DI next day, and install


HI thanks for the input , will this method not corrode the Rad , i mean if i leave it for 6hours or so , the acid will not corrode the metal in the rad

Regards


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I didn't see any ill effects afterwards ..... only 15% solution .... and it's not like when ya eat it at fill strength on a salad, it tears ya guts up







.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> carefull! they might have you for copyright?
> 
> looks cool though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of getting a 3d printer lately amongst other things
> 
> I cant decide what to buy though? a 3d printer/ a CNC/or a BGA rework station?
> 
> choices choices


As long as you don't sell these for profit we have nothing against it.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Thanks, Tiborr. I appreciate the promptness over the holidays. Do you have any insider info on the launch of the Kingpin version by the way?


Kingpin card fits our existing block, tested by EVGA themselves. Just don't use the backplate, we'll soon release the Rev.2.0 backplate that will also fit it.


----------



## leoxtxt

For a CPU (4930K) WC loop is there a big difference (performance/reliability wise) between the DCP 4.0 and a Laing D5 ?

Option #1


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






http://imgur.com/NSYAyjm





Option #2:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






http://imgur.com/HGQSaEN


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Kingpin card fits our existing block, tested by EVGA themselves. Just don't use the backplate, we'll soon release the Rev.2.0 backplate that will also fit it.


Aren't you on holiday? Get some rest.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Kingpin card fits our existing block, tested by EVGA themselves. Just don't use the backplate, we'll soon release the Rev.2.0 backplate that will also fit it.


I was actually referring to the launch of the actual card









Either way, does the EVGA backplate for the 780Ti Classified work with the EK waterblock for the same? I kinda like the semi-open look of that backplate.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Anyone have an easy method to assemble an EK X3 res top and bottom evenly?
Tried lining them up, opposites every bunch of different angles, took me 20+ tries to get bottom facing side and top facing forward


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Anyone have an easy method to assemble an EK X3 res top and bottom evenly?
> Tried lining them up, opposites every bunch of different angles, took me 20+ tries to get bottom facing side and top facing forward


I used two little blocks of wood, one in vice and one standing on vice edge.


----------



## omegasama

Its kinda odd that none EK representative looks into my matter .. And am still waiting respond from support .

Regards


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omegasama*
> 
> Its kinda odd that none EK representative looks into my matter .. And am still waiting respond from support .
> 
> Regards


Sir, it's the weekend between two major holidays, give them a chance to relax also.

As to the reply you were given by another OCN member regarding using vinegar in your system was SPOT on, the vinegar is diluted enough that it wouldn't eat through your rad even if you left it for 24 hours. I've been doing it almost the exact same way he stated for years in liquid cooled systems to clean things, and I have yet to have to replace a part due to vinegar being used. It's called common sense. Don't use un-diluted vinegar, and rinse out well afterwards.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omegasama*
> 
> Its kinda odd that none EK representative looks into my matter .. And am still waiting respond from support .
> 
> Regards


You're like a teenage girl on Christmas day who got an iPhone 4 instead of an iPhone 5. I'd say we're the most active reps for any company besides maybe Case Labs, and they're only here on OCN. Also as Jim said, it's the middle of the biggest holiday season and a Saturday.

>Boil water

>Run it through

>Seal it up

>Shake rad continuously

>Pour out

>Rinse and repeat

If you're still having problems then we can chat.


----------



## omegasama

I was jusk asking for help , dont just pop up and flame me . Put yourself in my shoes for once before calling be by whatever name , it is my first time going water-cool route and it is obvious that am not a pro at it , if you can help me just restrain from flaming me as it is making me sick. Thanks

Regards


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> >Boil water
> >Run it through
> >Seal it up
> >Shake rad continuously
> >Pour out
> >Rinse and repeat


This.

Again, it's holiday season, no one is working: http://www.ekwb.com/news/439/19/Merry-Christmas-and-a-Happy-New-Year/

Thanks for understanding. Also, it's almost midnight here. Having just come home from a pub I think I've done my duty for the day


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omegasama*
> 
> I was jusk asking for help , dont just pop up and flame me . Put yourself in my shoes for once before calling be by whatever name , it is my first time going water-cool route and it is obvious that am not a pro at it , if you can help me just restrain from flaming me as it is making me sick. Thanks
> 
> Regards


Hmm... Google is your friend!


----------



## wermad

Couldnt sleep so spent the previous night setting up the ram. Space is gonna be tight once the mb block goes in.


----------



## derickwm

Green dimms come onnnn now


----------



## VSG

Fits nicely with his theme though!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Green dimms come onnnn now










couldn't find them in brown


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> couldn't find them in brown


heatstrink the dimms!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Couldnt sleep so spent the previous night setting up the ram. Space is gonna be tight once the mb block goes in.


Going retro with the compressions and flexible tubing huh.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Going retro with the compressions and flexible tubing huh.


Failed miserably with acrylic. Not my thing. Would have been ideal having the forming tools back then but meh. 19mm od nylon tube looks much more beefier then puny 12mm acrylic in my TH10


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Failed miserably with acrylic. Not my thing. Would have been ideal having the forming tools back then but meh. 19mm od nylon tube looks much more beefier then puny 12mm acrylic in my TH10


should go with 16mm acrylic


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I used two little blocks of wood, one in vice and one standing on vice edge.


thanks wisk, I just winged it







luckily I got it to an acceptable point in 3 tries... from my last attempt I did not want to risk not having them line up or one be facing forward and other to the side


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> should go with 16mm acrylic


^This!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> should go with 16mm acrylic


Had plans for that but still same deal. Might jump back on if Primochill does revolvers in 5/8 od







.


----------



## szeged

i was worried the 12mm acrylic would look small in the sth10, but im surprised how well it fills it up, it might just be the way i have things set up in it though...also monsta rads take up a ton of space and make the sth10 feel small, when i was working on everything i was wishing i bought a tx10-D instead lol.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Green dimms come onnnn now


I wish someone would release a Z87 MB like that!


----------



## erayser

You should give acrylic tubing another shot wermad. One thing I like about acrylic tubing is how clean it looks, and how easy to get my hands in my rig to do wiring and stuff. However, it's not a quick and easy job as soft tubing. Anyhow, I just finished wiring my white LED's in my EK blocks. It was painful to solder all my LED wiring. It was just as painful it is to bend acrylic tubes and cutting them to right lengths. But like acrylic tubing... the results is well worth the effort.


----------



## wermad

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Went through all 24' of acrylic tube. Not going through the same hell again


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went through all 24' of acrylic tube. Not going through the same hell again


Not bad sir.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Green dimms come onnnn now


I almost always buy G.Skill because of the nice black PCBs.


----------



## gdubc

^this and the fact they make damn good ram.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> ^this and the fact they make damn good ram.


Well except it seems the majority of my 32GB of G.Skill Sniper seems to be dead.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Well except it seems the majority of my 32GB of G.Skill Sniper seems to be dead.


Lol, there's a surprise.

Aside from the black PCBs, I can't think of any other reason to get them.


----------



## wermad

Meh, too much hassle for ram looks. its just ram guys but I know some of you have some serious ocd that kicks into overdrive when you glance upon my rig









Vengeance has been good and stable for my rigs. Other ram i buy tends to give me issues but nothing from the Vengeance sticks. I'm guessing Corsair went with green to keep the cost down a bit, especially since ram prices are overtly inflated right now.


----------



## VSG

That and the fact that a huge majority will not bother taking off the stock heatsinks.


----------



## ikem

loving these blocks.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> ^this and the fact they make damn good ram.


Damn you make me feel old ! ..... when GSkill came on the market, the build community which was much smaller back then considered GSkill the "Walmart Brand". They were cheaper than the major players and had more than their share of quality issues. Later on, as things improved, I oft used them on low - moderate budget builds and while I didn't have any more problems than with other brands, I did find that they did had one problem..... didn't like "playing with others".

A plus for GSkill was that they continued to have older models available so when asked to do upgrades, when I couldn't find matching Mushkin, Corsair or whatever was in their boxes, I could find GSkills with the same specs. And while you always wanna do a perfect brand / model / speed / timings match whenever possible, sometimes ya just have no choice. However, adding the same spec Gskills didn't work more often that not. So what I'd wind up doing is pulling their original Mushkins, Corsairs, Crucials whatever, buying 4 modules of GSkill and sticking them in the box that needed ugrading and taking the 2 modules of whatever was there and upgrading another user's box. Never had a problem mixing any of the other brands together as long a specs were same

For my own builds tho....still using Mushkin as 1st choice. Nice to see the tech sites paying attention to memory again with lot of the major sites testing various brands again. methinks the affordability og higher speed modules likely the reason it's getting attention. Like the Hynix memory and usually has better stock timings which I can usually push more than non Hynix stuff. Have some Corsair Pros where 1st pair was Hynix and 2nd was not ....same model and specs too. Seems to be common practice now w/ some vendors....nVidia doing it too. In last build, the Mushkin 2400's were 10-12-12-28 when everyone else had 10-12-12-31


----------



## szeged

I only had one gskill stick die on me and it was my fault 100% and they got me a new one free the next day and paid for shipping. The evga of ram lol.


----------



## Jimhans1

Hey guys, quick question.

In your scouring of the Internet, have any of you seen any EK GTX580 blocks for sale? eBay, amazon, or other forums? I'm either unlucky or they just aren't getting rid of them I guess.......


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, there's a surprise.
> 
> Aside from the black PCBs, I can't think of any other reason to get them.


I have had better luck with Gskill than any other memory have had more problems with Corsair than any. I never seem to be able to get them to run at rated specs and Gskill have always ran at their rated spec's with no problems.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I only had one gskill stick die on me and it was my fault 100% and they got me a new one free the next day and paid for shipping. The evga of ram lol.


I agree 100% I love Gskill and will use no other memory!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I have had better luck with Gskill than any other memory have had more problems with Corsair than any. I never seem to be able to get them to run at rated specs and Gskill have always ran at their rated spec's with no problems.....
> I agree 100% I love Gskill and will use no other memory!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


That's great, I'm glad you've had good luck with them.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question.
> 
> In your scouring of the Internet, have any of you seen any EK GTX580 blocks for sale? eBay, amazon, or other forums? I'm either unlucky or they just aren't getting rid of them I guess.......


Seen a few of them a few weeks ago. I can't seem to find anyone w new ones or used ones. There's a few HK out there and they're very smexy and have awesome quality. Saw one at fcpu, some at aquatuning, and most likely Watercool has them on their site. Though, i would have a hard time digesting the cost of brand new blocks for older gen cards. Keep looking for used. I'm sure some will turn up.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question.
> 
> In your scouring of the Internet, have any of you seen any EK GTX580 blocks for sale? eBay, amazon, or other forums? I'm either unlucky or they just aren't getting rid of them I guess.......


I think I saw some at PPC and FCPU and have seen them on here on sale also..

I stand corrected they don't have them at PPC or FCPU and I could have sworn I saw them their..


----------



## Ovrclck

I'm getting ready to install the EK-SB Asus M6G and it looks like it will block the second pcix on my Hero. Can I install the block upside down so the fittings are between both pcie slots?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question.
> 
> In your scouring of the Internet, have any of you seen any EK GTX580 blocks for sale? eBay, amazon, or other forums? I'm either unlucky or they just aren't getting rid of them I guess.......


I've seen a few on Craigslist.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I've seen a few on Craigslist.


Lol, I always forget craigslist.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I'm getting ready to install the EK-SB Asus M6G and it looks like it will block the second pcix on my Hero. Can I install the block upside down so the fittings are between both pcie slots?


As long as the mounting holes line up and the pch still contacts the block, go for it


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, I always forget craigslist.


http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/sys/4236718061.html

posted 20 days ago... Maybe he still has it?


----------



## wermad

see if this guy is willing to part the blocks:

http://forums.evga.com/tm.aspx?m=2070649


----------



## ccRicers

I bought an EK waterblock for my HD 7950 video card about 2 weeks ago, thinking that it would fit. Turns out it doesn't, even though their compatibility list led me to believe it does. My card is the XFX 9750 DD, part number FX-795A-TDFC. It should be the last card on that list provided.

XFX released several different 7950's with different part numbers. I looked up my part on the configurator, they didn't list it as a 7950 DD, but as a "Dual Fan". I thought it would be accurate going by the part number, but their photo of the reference PCB doesn't match mine.

Here are some photos of my card:




Totally not a reference design. The massive "R19" power inductors as well as the single inductor on the top left keep the block from lining up with the board.

The sticker part number on the back says "FX-795A-TDF" though on the box, it is "FX-795A-TDFC". I wouldn't have thought the two had significant variations. EK says on their website that they did a visual test of the card only, and it passed. I assumed that they compared the card with a reference layout.

I haven't used this block at all, and would like to exchange it for a universal VGA block. Should I be contacting Frozen CPU (the vendor) or go directly with EK?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I bought an EK waterblock for my HD 7950 video card about 2 weeks ago, thinking that it would fit. Turns out it doesn't, even though their compatibility list led me to believe it does. My card is the XFX 9750 DD, part number FX-795A-TDFC. It should be the last card on that list provided.
> 
> XFX released several different 7950's with different part numbers. I looked up my part on the configurator, they didn't list it as a 7950 DD, but as a "Dual Fan". I thought it would be accurate going by the part number, but their photo of the reference PCB doesn't match mine.
> 
> Here are some photos of my card:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Totally not a reference design. The massive "R19" power inductors as well as the single inductor on the top left keep the block from lining up with the board.
> 
> The sticker part number on the back says "FX-795A-TDF" though on the box, it is "FX-795A-TDFC". I wouldn't have thought the two had significant variations. EK says on their website that they did a visual test of the card only, and it passed. I assumed that they compared the card with a reference layout.
> 
> I haven't used this block at all, and would like to exchange it for a universal VGA block. Should I be contacting Frozen CPU (the vendor) or go directly with EK?


Contact FCPU I don't think EK would do anything about this but I might be wrong!!


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> As long as the mounting holes line up and the pch still contacts the block, go for it


sweeeet. I shall do this. Thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I bought an EK waterblock for my HD 7950 video card about 2 weeks ago, thinking that it would fit. Turns out it doesn't, even though their compatibility list led me to believe it does. My card is the XFX 9750 DD, part number FX-795A-TDFC. It should be the last card on that list provided.
> 
> XFX released several different 7950's with different part numbers. I looked up my part on the configurator, they didn't list it as a 7950 DD, but as a "Dual Fan". I thought it would be accurate going by the part number, but their photo of the reference PCB doesn't match mine.
> 
> Here are some photos of my card:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Totally not a reference design. The massive "R19" power inductors as well as the single inductor on the top left keep the block from lining up with the board.
> 
> The sticker part number on the back says "FX-795A-TDF" though on the box, it is "FX-795A-TDFC". I wouldn't have thought the two had significant variations. EK says on their website that they did a visual test of the card only, and it passed. I assumed that they compared the card with a reference layout.
> 
> I haven't used this block at all, and would like to exchange it for a universal VGA block. Should I be contacting Frozen CPU (the vendor) or go directly with EK?


Which block did you get? According the the coolingconfigurator.com its the reference 7950. Though, XFX is notorious for changing things and not changing the designation (p/n).

http://coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist#DB_inline?height=260&width=530&inline_id=comp_table


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Which block did you get? According the the coolingconfigurator.com its the reference 7950. Though, XFX is notorious for changing things and not changing the designation (p/n).
> 
> http://coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist#DB_inline?height=260&width=530&inline_id=comp_table


That link doesn't work as the website doesn't keep the config parameters on the URL. It just tells me to select a video card.

I made sure to double check on the XFX card and chose my part number from the list. Some of the solder points didn't seem right from the back of my card but I gave EK the benefit of the doubt and bought the water block before removing the stock cooler.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> That link doesn't work as the website doesn't keep the config parameters on the URL. It just tells me to select a video card.
> 
> I made sure to double check on the XFX card and chose my part number from the list. Some of the solder points didn't seem right from the back of my card but I gave EK the benefit of the doubt and bought the water block before removing the stock cooler.


http://coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109856239


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> see if this guy is willing to part the blocks:
> 
> http://forums.evga.com/tm.aspx?m=2070649


for some reason, that link just takes me to the evga home page, then when I log in, nothing. can u give me a little more info so I can "search" the evga forums for that post/thread?


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> http://coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109856239


Yeah, I have that one, but in nickel: http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109856253

My part number shows on there, but it's not a reference PCB.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> for some reason, that link just takes me to the evga home page, then when I log in, nothing. can u give me a little more info so I can "search" the evga forums for that post/thread?


Oh, my bad. You have to have at least 40 posts to view the evga.com market. IF you have them, contact a mod to grant you access to the market.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Yeah, I have that one, but in nickel: http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109856253
> 
> My part number shows on there, but it's not a reference PCB.


This is the pcb pictured on there:


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This is the pcb pictured on there:


The photo I posted of my PCB don't match that one.



Looks like the 795A-TDFC has different variations of it.


----------



## Jimhans1

Are we going to see any acrylic Terminal Blocks for the new FC GPU blocks?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> The photo I posted of my PCB don't match that one.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the 795A-TDFC has different variations of it.


Gonna go out on limb and say yours maybe compatible w/ V2 blocks (not 100% sure if I'm hones). I know Alphacool makes one and HK has an "XFX" version.

http://www.alphacool.com/download/compatibility%20list%20ATI.pdf

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_578&products_id=37996

Tbh, I would just sell it and get something else. Tahits have gone up in value so now is a good time to sell. Buy a 280X that's compatible but stay away from XFX. As I mentioned, they're known for changing pcb layouts and keeping the same part number. This is not the first XFX incompatibility case that's come up due to revisions.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Gonna go out on limb and say yours maybe compatible w/ V2 blocks (not 100% sure if I'm hones). I know Alphacool makes one and HK has an "XFX" version.
> 
> http://www.alphacool.com/download/compatibility%20list%20ATI.pdf
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_578&products_id=37996
> 
> Tbh, I would just sell it and get something else. Tahits have gone up in value so now is a good time to sell. Buy a 280X that's compatible but stay away from XFX. As I mentioned, they're known for changing pcb layouts and keeping the same part number. This is not the first XFX incompatibility case that's come up due to revisions.


I actually spotted the Heatkiller block a while back but I skipped on it because of what the cooling config website told me. Besides, I think I'll take your advice and sell the card because the EK block looks sexy and I'd like to keep it.

Main reason I got the XFX was because it was $200, right before the price explosion. I bought it used and the fans don't even work properly anymore, so I hope I can still get $300 out of it in this condition.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I actually spotted the Heatkiller block a while back but I skipped on it because of what the cooling config website told me. Besides, I think I'll take your advice and sell the card because the EK block looks sexy and I'd like to keep it.
> 
> Main reason I got the XFX was because it was $200, right before the price explosion. I bought it used and the fans don't even work properly anymore, so I hope I can still get $300 out of it in this condition.


Good luck


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I actually spotted the Heatkiller block a while back but I skipped on it because of what the cooling config website told me. Besides, I think I'll take your advice and sell the card because the EK block looks sexy and I'd like to keep it.
> 
> Main reason I got the XFX was because it was $200, right before the price explosion. I bought it used and the fans don't even work properly anymore, so I hope I can still get $300 out of it in this condition.


I need to sell my stuff where you do if someone would pay $300 for a used w/broken fans 7950 when you can get a 280x for $419 new.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I need to sell my stuff where you do if someone would pay $300 for a used w/broken fans 7950 when you can get a 280x for $419 new.


It sucks how greedy the retailers got. These were a good $100 less on ebay (along the Amd msrp) before this damn inflation. I got lucky and scored my cards at reasonable price before this all exploded. Tempted to sell but I love my cards and they have multiple displayports.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It sucks how greedy the retailers got. These were a good $100 less on ebay (along the Amd msrp) before this damn inflation. I got lucky and scored my cards at reasonable price before this all exploded. Tempted to sell but I love my cards and they have multiple displayports.


Not greedy retailers, stupid purchasers!


----------



## omegasama

Someone want to chat now ? I did everything mentioned by peoples here and the end result is the same . But the odd thing is this , when i was flushing with boiling water , the water that came out was crystal clean , its only when i use the deionized water for the final flushing that i had this problem





On the video it is the final flush , the dirt start to appear less than 10minutes. Should i flush it again with hot water ? , i have 2 more EKWB rads one 480 and one 240 , i am afraid to flush them right now but i want to check if the 2 others have the same problem , what your opinion ?

Regards


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Not greedy retailers, stupid purchasers!


Demand goes up, so does the price. Amd has set an msrp. It still "suggested" but not mandatory by the retailers. They're seeing the craze and want a large piece of it. Hence, high msrp. Then it forces ppl to flock to used, which then drives up the cost, and the cycle continues.


----------



## Tomalak

Solved in another thread. Disregard.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomalak*
> 
> If anyone can help me with this dilemma of mine (regarding Asus Hero and EK Supremacy wb), it will be much appreciated:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1413905/official-asus-maximus-vi-hero-owners-and-overclocking-club/1200#post_21485084
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You're fine. The rubber is to prevent shorting so its doing its job. No harm if a few of the pin solder points poke it. Its a beefy seal
Click to expand...


----------



## Tomalak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


Let me thank you here as well for the quick reply. Proceeding with the assembly!


----------



## Jimhans1

How hard if even possible would it be to send my EK-FC580GTX+ nickel block back to EK to have the thing replated??


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomalak*
> 
> Let me thank you here as well for the quick reply. Proceeding with the assembly!


You're welcome







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> How hard if even possible would it be to send my EK-FC580GTX+ nickel block back to EK to have the thing replated??


Shipping and workmanship will cost you about the same as a new block. Try to find a local plating shop. From my experience, plating was very pricey but shop around. In all honesty, I would just switch gpu or wait for something to be available .

Where you able to get to the evga seller? if not, I can send him a pm


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> How hard if even possible would it be to send my EK-FC580GTX+ nickel block back to EK to have the thing replated??


If you're interested, I can give you the contact information to the guy that does plating for me. His prices are dirt cheap, even with shipping both ways you will be at less that $40 total.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> If you're interested, I can give you the contact information to the guy that does plating for me. His prices are dirt cheap, even with shipping both ways you will be at less that $40 total.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Here you go







Jeff to the rescue!

A local shop quoted me ~$100 a piece to plate some copper DD blocks w/ electrodeless nickel (what ek calls "EN" plating). Electrode plating was a bit cheaper but they guy said the first was better suited for water applications (electrodeless).


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> If you're interested, I can give you the contact information to the guy that does plating for me. His prices are dirt cheap, even with shipping both ways you will be at less that $40 total.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Ya, send me a pm, I would appreciate it!!


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> This.
> 
> Again, it's holiday season, no one is working: http://www.ekwb.com/news/439/19/Merry-Christmas-and-a-Happy-New-Year/
> 
> Thanks for understanding. Also, it's almost midnight here. Having just come home from a pub I think I've done my duty for the day










Crossing fingers that my ASUS RIVBE ships!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> If you're interested, I can give you the contact information to the guy that does plating for me. His prices are dirt cheap, even with shipping both ways you will be at less that $40 total.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Wow much reward! Give this man much thanks!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> If you're interested, I can give you the contact information to the guy that does plating for me. His prices are dirt cheap, even with shipping both ways you will be at less that $40 total.
> Jeffinslaw


And yes, thank you so much for offering to do that, I appreciate it immensely.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Here you go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeff to the rescue!
> 
> A local shop quoted me ~$100 a piece to plate some copper DD blocks w/ electrodeless nickel (what ek calls "EN" plating). Electrode plating was a bit cheaper but they guy said the first was better suited for water applications (electrodeless).


Yah, that's just outrageous, wayyyyyy to expensive.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Ya, send me a pm, I would appreciate it!!


PM sent!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Crossing fingers that my ASUS RIVBE ships!
> Wow much reward! Give this man much thanks!


I've had three items done by him: he polished back plates (which I ended up getting powder coated because I changed things), two GTX 580 blocks (one re-plated, and another one plated), and the XSPC GA-Z77X-UP7 board block plated. Spent about $100 for all that? I am pleased with the quality of it.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Did EK ship out any orders today?


----------



## snef

the HOF EK water block in action

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-10_zps18750593.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-12_zpsdab1921b.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-13_zps1ca4f11a.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-15_zps41d68269.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-17_zps3e4f3cd2.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-18_zps0b26f3c2.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-19_zps1e068043.jpg.html

I love this GPU and with this block, its a perfect match

did a 1345mhz OC on Core and never go over 52c

Great Job EK


----------



## Roxycon

Have someone tried to matte down the ek backplates with csq design?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Did EK ship out any orders today?


Doubt it, I'm pretty sure they're on holiday until the 2nd or later.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Doubt it, I'm pretty sure they're on holiday until the 2nd or later.



http://www.ekwb.com/news/439/19/Merry-Christmas-and-a-Happy-New-Year/


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> the HOF EK water block in action
> 
> I love this GPU and with this block, its a perfect match
> 
> did a 1345mhz OC on Core and never go over 52c
> 
> Great Job EK


Is that a Ti? How much voltage?

Don't suppose you've considered polishing those caps to remove the blue? They kind of stick out. Otherwise looking good.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/439/19/Merry-Christmas-and-a-Happy-New-Year/


Ah, thanks for correcting me.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Is that a Ti? How much voltage?
> 
> Don't suppose you've considered polishing those caps to remove the blue? They kind of stick out. Otherwise looking good.


Thanks

No, its the regular version, not the Ti
Use 1.200v to achived this OC

Like the idea of polishing,
My first idea was white or gold sticker

What u use for poshing these little cap, 2000 grid sand paper?


----------



## tiborrr12

@Snef:


----------



## kcuestag

Got some EK goodies on the way:

3x EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel (One for my 2nd GPU which is block-less, the other two for a friend)
1x EK-FC Terminal Triple Serial
1x EK-FC Terminal Blank Serial
1x EK-FC Terinal Dual Serial 3-Slot (For a friend)
1x EK-FC R9-290X Backplate - Black
3m of Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 16/11mm (Or 16/12mm in EK's site







) Clear.

Can't wait to recieve them, I feel like my 290's are going to make my computer levitate right now.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I feel like my 290's are going to make my computer levitate right now.


Or burst into flames. Lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Yah, that's just outrageous, wayyyyyy to expensive.
> Jeffinslaw


Yup, I didn't bite since I needed four blocks. Would have been easier to get some HK and sell the DD ones. It was a chrome shop usually to do bikes and rods. Closest thing i could find in my area.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> the HOF EK water block in action
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-10_zps18750593.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-12_zpsdab1921b.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-13_zps1ca4f11a.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-15_zps41d68269.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-17_zps3e4f3cd2.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-18_zps0b26f3c2.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-19_zps1e068043.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> I love this GPU and with this block, its a perfect match
> 
> did a 1345mhz OC on Core and never go over 52c
> 
> Great Job EK


Beautiful rig there


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> What u use for poshing these little cap, 2000 grid sand paper?


Or nail polish remover (acetone) takes off just the paint.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> No, its the regular version, not the Ti
> Use 1.200v to achived this OC
> 
> Like the idea of polishing,
> My first idea was white or gold sticker
> 
> What u use for poshing these little cap, 2000 grid sand paper?


Honestly I have no idea. I've never done it. I've seen other people do it.


----------



## snef

Thanks

Nail polish remover, i will give a try


----------



## VSG

Dear EK reps, when you get back from vacation can you please tell me if you are going to be making a block for the upcoming MSI R9-290x Lightning? Thanks :-D


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Dear EK reps, when you get back from vacation can you please tell me if you are going to be making a block for the upcoming MSI R9-290x Lightning? Thanks :-D


Someone's going to have to, those 290x's already run to hot for any air cooler. I would expect these Lightnings to just burst into flames too.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Crossing fingers that my ASUS RIVBE ships!


Im waiting for mine too....


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Im waiting for mine too....


Same! I have a feeling that my RIVBE blocks will arrive before my 4 EK 290x Acetal w/ Backplates from FrozenCPU will arrive. I've been waiting almost a month for these damn GPU blocks. Getting rather annoyed.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Someone's going to have to, those 290x's already run to hot for any air cooler. I would expect these Lightnings to just burst into flames too.


Yup, I am really tempted by this particular card that could be ~$600 and compete nicely with any other 780Ti such as the classified for example. However a waterblock is a must for it and MSI haven't played nicely with EK recently (z87 XPower sample was for example delivered pretty late to them to make blocks of)


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yup, I am really tempted by this particular card that could be ~$600 and compete nicely with any other 780Ti such as the classified for example. However a waterblock is a must for it and MSI haven't played nicely with EK recently (z87 XPower sample was for example delivered pretty late to them to make blocks of)


Yeah, I want to see its performance before I believe what MSI's sales gurus have concocted.


----------



## szeged

never again will i believe MSI marketing team, only the performance after the card is released lol.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> never again will i believe MSI marketing team, only the performance after the card is released lol.


Definitely this! ^^^^


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Same! I have a feeling that my RIVBE blocks will arrive before my 4 EK 290x Acetal w/ Backplates from FrozenCPU will arrive. I've been waiting almost a month for these damn GPU blocks. Getting rather annoyed.


Yeah , my AC 290 block would also arrive first I think although I choose the 3 days dhl service for the rivbe block

Dear lord I cant wait to finally build and bend all the tubes
My monsoon kit already has arrived


----------



## binormalkilla

Has anyone installed the new EK triple bridges with the elliptical o ring grooves? These use a circular o ring, so they pop out REALLY easily. I'm beginning to pull my hair out after trying repeatedly to install my cards. I finally managed to get one card in, but I wouldn't be surprised if it leaks. I would strongly caution against buying the triple channel until it is revised.

If anyone has any tips I would greatly appreciate it.


----------



## wermad

Use a little silicone grease to hold o-rings in place. I had the same issue.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Use a little silicone grease to hold o-rings in place. I had the same issue.


I tried a little Vaseline.... But I can give that a shot too.


----------



## wermad

You can find it in the plumbing section of your local hardware store.


----------



## ikem

suprized by the performance of these blocks.

keeping the 7870 cores around 35C at 100% load.... wow.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> I tried a little Vaseline.... But I can give that a shot too.


Vaseline is petroleum based. Can dry out o-ring, depending on what they are made of, but I'd replace any o-rings you've put vaseline on.


----------



## tiborrr12

I'm looking into making these little o-rings stamped therefore they will retain shape after being removed from the Terminal. But in the mean time please bear with them


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Yeah , my AC 290 block would also arrive first I think although I choose the 3 days dhl service for the rivbe block
> 
> Dear lord I cant wait to finally build and bend all the tubes
> My monsoon kit already has arrived


Same, I need to go to the hardware store and by some cheap metal rods to use as templates when bending my tubes. I think I may have misspoken though it seems a package from FrozenCPU has appeared on my UPS MyChoice. Should be here Thursday or Friday (can't tell because UPS keeps changing it literally every 6 hours lol).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I'm looking into making these little o-rings stamped therefore they will retain shape after being removed from the Terminal. But in the mean time please bear with them


Got to love a manufacturer improving their products based on community feedback!


----------



## Jimhans1

So EK folks, I know your on holiday, but I figured I'd ask while I'm thinking about it and just wait for the reply.

It was announced that there will be a block for the Max 6 Impact a while back, any news on when we will see them in the online store and in stock with your US resellers? I'm waiting to get one to start my Mercury S3 build, it's the last part I need........

Edit: I forgot to say, Happy New Year!!!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

^^ I'm also waiting on my rampage blocks ordered last week. Still no shipping confirmation, not sure if anything was shipped. Looks like I'll have to wait til the 6th to find out.

Happy New Year!


----------



## tSgt

Is that hard to read a schedule ?

http://www.ekwb.com/news/439/19/Merry-Christmas-and-a-Happy-New-Year/

You guys KNOW they are on holidays and you keep asking them about M6I blocks and RIVBE shipping... Please let EK breath for a bit...

Edit : I'm sorry, I don't want to sounds ruse or anything... but for the last pages of this threads there is already multiple post asking EK for these 2 specific subjects...


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Is that hard to read a schedule ?
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/439/19/Merry-Christmas-and-a-Happy-New-Year/
> 
> You guys KNOW they are on holidays and you keep asking them about M6I blocks and RIVBE shipping... Please let EK breath for a bit...
> 
> Edit : I'm sorry, I don't want to sounds ruse or anything... but for the last pages of this threads there is already multiple post asking EK for these 2 specific subjects...


It means there are a lot of people with high enthusiasm over those two products, which I am one of them. I am one who eager to use the block in my incoming build

And I dont think a forum forbid to share that level of enthusiasm
For one, I can reply to your post doesn't mean I cant read

Lets keep the club a happy family


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> It means there are a lot of people with high enthusiasm over those two products, which I am one of them. I am one who eager to use the block in my incoming build
> 
> And I dont think a forum forbid to share that level of enthusiasm
> For one, I can reply to your post doesn't mean I cant read
> 
> Lets keep the club a happy family


I have nothing against "high enthusiasm" over X or Y products, but repetitive kind of post is kinda boring and quite annoying. I don't think a forum forbid to share my opinion.
Again, I have nothing against enthusiasm. But the past few days was more of harassment regarding these shipping than "high enthusiasm". But I assume anyone can call anything like they want to









Every day when I wake up I see some news post here, I click the link, and that's the only kind of post I see to be honest ^^ maybe I'm not in the perfect timing who knows !


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Is that hard to read a schedule ?
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/439/19/Merry-Christmas-and-a-Happy-New-Year/
> 
> You guys KNOW they are on holidays and you keep asking them about M6I blocks and RIVBE shipping... Please let EK breath for a bit...
> 
> Edit : I'm sorry, I don't want to sounds ruse or anything... but for the last pages of this threads there is already multiple post asking EK for these 2 specific subjects...


They had two working days on the 30th and 31st that should be enough time to ship out some products


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> They had two working days on the 30th and 31st that should be enough time to ship out some products


Until 3PM,

Assuming they start working at 8AM that give them 2 x 7 hours, if I'm correct they are 4 (soon 5 ?) they probably have tons of order, that needs to be processed/shipped.
It give a tight schedule to do all the shipping and administrative stuff.

For the 23/24 December, they had 10 hours of total time (still assuming they start their working day at 8AM).

I can easily understand why some shipping or order are still pending. Maybe they had time to ship a few orders (or to process them).


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Until 3PM,
> 
> Assuming they start working at 8AM that give them 2 x 7 hours, if I'm correct they are 4 (soon 5 ?) they probably have tons of order, that needs to be processed/shipped.
> It give a tight schedule to do all the shipping and administrative stuff.
> 
> For the 23/24 December, they had 10 hours of total time (still assuming they start their working day at 8AM).
> 
> I can easily understand why some shipping or order are still pending. Maybe they had time to ship a few orders (or to process them).


There's only 4 of them? Holy smokes I though they had a lot more than that lol


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Is that hard to read a schedule ?
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/439/19/Merry-Christmas-and-a-Happy-New-Year/
> 
> You guys KNOW they are on holidays and you keep asking them about M6I blocks and RIVBE shipping... Please let EK breath for a bit...
> 
> Edit : I'm sorry, I don't want to sounds ruse or anything... but for the last pages of this threads there is already multiple post asking EK for these 2 specific subjects...


Don't you know how to read a post?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> So EK folks, *I know your on holiday*, but I figured I'd ask while I'm thinking about it *and just wait for the reply.*
> 
> It was announced that there will be a block for the Max 6 Impact a while back, any news on when we will see them in the online store and in stock with your US resellers? I'm waiting to get one to start my Mercury S3 build, it's the last part I need........
> 
> Edit: I forgot to say, Happy New Year!!!


This is a forum to ask questions also, I didn't say "answer me now", I know they are on holiday, I'm more than happy to wait for an answer of any type, or if someone can answer it from one of their previous posts they have already put up, great.

Edit: just went back over the last 5+ days of posts again. Didn't see any posts from the EK folks about it, so when they get back, my question still stands.

Happy New Years!


----------



## wermad

Holidays....do expected delays folks


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Holidays....do expected delays folks


Exactly that, and thanks again for the help sir!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Exactly that, and thanks again for the help sir!


Np







.

Had there been no holiday today, I would have received my cpu. For now, i have to wait one more day







. Not too bummed out since I got to work today (though extra holiday bonus to pay for those BE blocks!).


----------



## binormalkilla

Silicone grease worked like a charm for me. Leak testing now!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> Silicone grease worked like a charm for me. Leak testing now!


Kewl









Any tips on cleaning acetal? Smudges easily and i wanna get rid of them


----------



## wermad

Sorry for the double post. Any tips on cleaning acetal? Smudges easily and i wanna get rid of them


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sorry for the double post. Any tips on cleaning acetal? Smudges easily and i wanna get rid of them


I've used microfiber cloths with satisfactory results.


----------



## binormalkilla

290X GPU1 temps 29C idle, 35C in BF4. No complaints here!


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sorry for the double post. Any tips on cleaning acetal? Smudges easily and i wanna get rid of them


Acetal is easy to clean and can - as opposed to acrylic - withstand aggressive chemicals such as acetone easily. But rather not use it!









Gentle dish-washing detergent + warm water works magic.

If you dry clean it I would recommend those monitor/glasses cleaning napkins (btw anyone knows the name of material in this stuff?).


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> If you dry clean it I would recommend those monitor/glasses cleaning napkins (btw anyone knows the name of material in this stuff?).


For spectacles/glasses I have two different ones here: one is denatured alcohol (methylated spirits) and the other one says SAS-60 (Sodium C14-17 Alkyl Sulfonate) + Potassium Lauryl Phosphate. I wouldn't use the first one on a monitor or acrylic


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> Silicone grease worked like a charm for me. Leak testing now!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Or burst into flames. Lol


Was it that hard without the silicone grease? I ordered a FC Terminal bridge (Triple 3 slot Serial), hope it's not too hard to install.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Was it that hard without the silicone grease? I ordered a FC Terminal bridge (Triple 3 slot Serial), hope it's not too hard to install.


Do yourself a favor and buy some. It's nearly impossible without it.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> Do yourself a favor and buy some. It's nearly impossible without it.


Damn.









But doesn't that dry the o-rings? Or was it different grease that does it?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But doesn't that dry the o-rings? Or was it different grease that does it?


No, that is petroleum jelly/Vaseline that does!!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> No, that is petroleum jelly/Vaseline that does!!


What kind of stores should I be looking this for? Don't think I've ever purchased silicone grease here in Spain.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Any decent automotive store should have it, if not then Amazon does.

To give you an idea of what to look for
http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=silicone+grease&tag=googhydr-21&index=aps&hvadid=31415924000&hvpos=2t2&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=716146873573233045&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_9gxidrcqro_b


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> What kind of stores should I be looking this for? Don't think I've ever purchased silicone grease here in Spain.


Any plumbing supply store will have it, that would be my first stop.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Dear EK reps, when you get back from vacation can you please tell me if you are going to be making a block for the upcoming MSI R9-290x Lightning? Thanks :-D


Haven't looked too much into it, but we'll take it under consideration.

M6I block is still coming... soon. <3

Holidays are almost over, please bear with us as there will be a lot of catch up going on. I'm back from holidays so I will be around a little more than I have been lately.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Just make sure to keep alcohols away from acrylic .... I have been using clear ammonia and a decent quality PT since my 1st puter in 1983.


----------



## binormalkilla

I bought my grease at home depot in the plumbing department.


----------



## killacam7478

Hi Guys, new to watercooling and wanted to ask a few quick questions. Bought an open box EK L240 kit from a local store. I read that it has slots for some 3mm LED lights, but I wasn't sure what exactly I am supposed to buy and how to install them. The EK website says this kit has a "EK-Supreme LTX UNI CSQ 2013," which if I'm looking at this correctly, says "Prepared for LED Diode - 3mm"

Also, I like the look of everything with this kit, except the tubing. I was thinking to replace it with clear tubing. My local store has a 10 foot PrimoChill, just wanted to see if this was any good:
http://www.microcenter.com/product/406875/10'_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_3-8_ID_x_5-8_OD_Tubing_-_Crystal_Clear

I wanted clear because I want to have blue liquid (all the guides I read say to use colored tubing and use distilled water, but I think it would be nice to see colored liquid in the reservoir. Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killacam7478*
> 
> Hi Guys, new to watercooling and wanted to ask a few quick questions. Bought an open box EK L240 kit from a local store. I read that it has slots for some 3mm LED lights, but I wasn't sure what exactly I am supposed to buy and how to install them. The EK website says this kit has a "EK-Supreme LTX UNI CSQ 2013," which if I'm looking at this correctly, says "Prepared for LED Diode - 3mm"
> 
> Also, I like the look of everything with this kit, except the tubing. I was thinking to replace it with clear tubing. My local store has a 10 foot PrimoChill, just wanted to see if this was any good:
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/406875/10'_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_3-8_ID_x_5-8_OD_Tubing_-_Crystal_Clear
> 
> I wanted clear because I want to have blue liquid (all the guides I read say to use colored tubing and use distilled water, but I think it would be nice to see colored liquid in the reservoir. Thanks!


Advance clear is probably the best clear tube option right now as its easily available and doesn't plasticize. A bit stiff imho but its manageable. Great size btw


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> For spectacles/glasses I have two different ones here: one is denatured alcohol (methylated spirits) and the other one says SAS-60 (Sodium C14-17 Alkyl Sulfonate) + Potassium Lauryl Phosphate. I wouldn't use the first one on a monitor or acrylic


No I mean just the dry napkin. Anyone know the name for the material?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> No I mean just the dry napkin. Anyone know the name for the material?


A microfiber cloth?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> No I mean just the dry napkin. Anyone know the name for the material?


Camera lens cleaning clothes?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> A microfiber cloth?


A microfiber cloth is usually found in auto parts stores for detailing the plastic automobile headlight lenses. Works well!!


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killacam7478*
> 
> Hi Guys, new to watercooling and wanted to ask a few quick questions. Bought an open box EK L240 kit from a local store. I read that it has slots for some 3mm LED lights, but I wasn't sure what exactly I am supposed to buy and how to install them. The EK website says this kit has a "EK-Supreme LTX UNI CSQ 2013," which if I'm looking at this correctly, says "Prepared for LED Diode - 3mm"
> 
> Also, I like the look of everything with this kit, except the tubing. I was thinking to replace it with clear tubing. My local store has a 10 foot PrimoChill, just wanted to see if this was any good:
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/406875/10'_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_3-8_ID_x_5-8_OD_Tubing_-_Crystal_Clear
> 
> I wanted clear because I want to have blue liquid (all the guides I read say to use colored tubing and use distilled water, but I think it would be nice to see colored liquid in the reservoir. Thanks!


These are the correct LED diodes for your water block: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/leds/leds-3mm.html

Regarding the tubing in the kit: We've opted for our own EPDM tubing EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black because of the durability and easy maintainance. Since these are starter kits we have decided what's best for beginners and choose something we can trust. If you replace the tubing choose only the Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced series tubing.

Also, you should use the enclosed eKoolant concentrate just like the manual says. Nevermind the 'guides'. One should not take something written on the forums for granted, especially when it's in the clear contrast with manufacturers recommendation.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> A microfiber cloth?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Camera lens cleaning clothes?


Yes, but what material exactly?







I'm heading to the local oculist office tomorrow and ask. We could offer these in bulk or include them with the kits perhaps.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Yes, but what material exactly?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm heading to the local oculist office tomorrow and ask. We could offer these in bulk or include them with the kits perhaps.


Well, they are two different items honestly. I have used both of them. The microfiber cloth is a polyester strand cloth.

http://m.adorama.com/newui/search.aspx?sku=NKMFC

http://m.adorama.com/newui/search.aspx?sku=CPLT


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Haven't looked too much into it, but we'll take it under consideration.
> 
> Holidays are almost over, please bear with us as there will be a lot of catch up going on. I'm back from holidays so I will be around a little more than I have been lately.


You know that lightning card is even more in need of a waterblock than the reference 290x, who do I bribe to get this done?









Happy new year, guys!


----------



## killacam7478

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> These are the correct LED diodes for your water block: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/leds/leds-3mm.html
> 
> Regarding the tubing in the kit: We've opted for our own EPDM tubing EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black because of the durability and easy maintainance. Since these are starter kits we have decided what's best for beginners and choose something we can trust. If you replace the tubing choose only the Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced series tubing.
> 
> Also, you should use the enclosed eKoolant concentrate just like the manual says. Nevermind the 'guides'. One should not take something written on the forums for granted, especially when it's in the clear contrast with manufacturers recommendation.


Thanks EK_tiborrr, that's very helpful. Although I am new to this, I did still want to give the different tubing a shot. I also plan to use the EK concentrate, totally understand your point. Thanks again!


----------



## Squashie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Yes, but what material exactly?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm heading to the local oculist office tomorrow and ask. We could offer these in bulk or include them with the kits perhaps.


Eym8

If you looking for a cloth to include in your products/sets i know that Lamptron include a cloth with their logo when u buy their fan-controller, maybe they can point you in a direction to buy bulk.


----------



## lowfat

Resanded and polished all my CSQ stuff. Removed pretty much all machining marks on all the acrylic. Took many hours to do but i am happy with the result. Also cleaned up the modification to the GPU block that allows the Ti to work.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Resanded and polished all my CSQ stuff. Removed retry much all machining marks on all the acrylic. Took many hours to do but i am happy with the result.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!!


----------



## wermad

Do we have an eta on CSQ BE blocks please







?


----------



## Kokin

Nothing amazing like what you guys have, but here's what my 7950 block looks like now after replacing the black acetal top with the clear plexi top. I'm switching out my CPU block, pump, and res, but unfortunately none are EK-branded.


----------



## tiborrr12

Nice and compact build for sure!









@lowfat:








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You know that lightning card is even more in need of a waterblock than the reference 290x, who do I bribe to get this done?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy new year, guys!


Lightning is coming, can you please wait for the card to be actually officially announced?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Nice and compact build for sure!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @lowfat:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lightning is coming, *can you please wait for the card to be actually officially announced*?


never!

i wish they would hurry up and release a lightning TI / 290x already







1.5v isnt fun enough on the classys


----------



## VSG

You know I can't wait long, Tiborr









Did MSI send you guys a 290x lightning already or at least planning to? I don't want to buy the card only to find out I gotta run it on the stock air cooler!


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You know I can't wait long, Tiborr
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did MSI send you guys a 290x lightning already or at least planning to? I don't want to buy the card only to find out I gotta run it on the stock air cooler!


Cmon man, they don't even have enough working samples yet. Calm down


----------



## X-oiL

Hey guys,

Do you know when the DDC 3.2 pwm res combo will come in stock again?


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Do you know when the DDC 3.2 pwm res combo will come in stock again?


Not sure if you are interested but I searched a couple resellers which have them in stock, don't know where you are located


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Cmon man, they don't even have enough working samples yet. Calm down


Fine I will try, but only because you said so









Edit: On another note, could you please tell me what the exact dimensions of the 780(Ti) classy block and backplate are? Thanks!


----------



## kcuestag

Do you guys know if Monday is a working day in Slovenia? I know it's holiday here in Spain, but wondering if they work in Slovenia or also have holiday there on the 6th.


----------



## WiSK

Wiki says Epiphany isn't a national holiday in Slovenia.


----------



## szeged

part 2 of a very sexy EK build


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> part 2 of a very sexy EK build


All that money in his build and he is using a mediocre PSU lol.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> All that money in his build and he is using a mediocre PSU lol.


that was my first thought too when i saw his change in psu choice lol.


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> that was my first thought too when i saw his change in psu choice lol.


At least he'll be able to monitor his PSU blowing up lol


----------



## szeged

lol


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Well going to be joining you guys very soon.

Szeged made a nice little list of the stuff i need but my EK stuff will be the following

CPU Block - EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Nickel + Plexi
GPU Block 1 - EK-FC Titan SE - Nickel + plexi
GPU Block 2 - EK-FC Titan SE - Nickel + plexi
GPU Block Backplate 1 - EK-FC Titan Backplate - Black
GPU Block Backplate 2 - EK-FC Titan Backplate - Black
Radiator 1 - EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (480)
radiator 2 - EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (480)
radiator 3 - EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (480)

pump top - EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal
reservoir - EK-RES X3 250 Reservoir

coolant - K EKoolant Premium Liquid Cooling Premix Coolant - 1000ml - UV Blue
coolant - K EKoolant Premium Liquid Cooling Premix Coolant - 1000ml - UV Blue

Add that to the rest of the build and I'll be swimming at 45C soon on the titans.

Now to watch 100 videos on modding as this is my 1st proper water build.

Which in the future should I want to add 2 more titans or the maxwell equivalent to make 4 gfx cards total shoudnt be too much of an issue to add to the loop.


----------



## tiborrr12

Nice list but beware - *Wrong backplates!*

You need these ones: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-backplates/nvidia-geforce-series/ek-fc-titan-se-backplate-black.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Fine I will try, but only because you said so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: On another note, could you please tell me what the exact dimensions of the 780(Ti) classy block and backplate are? Thanks!












The dimensions are the dimensions of the card - 280mm in lenght, 125mm in width. Installed height of the water block is 14.6mm from the PCB, backplate ~ 4.2mm installed height.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Well going to be joining you guys very soon.
> Szeged made a nice little list of the stuff i need but my EK stuff will be the following
> 
> CPU Block - EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Nickel + Plexi
> GPU Block 1 - EK-FC Titan SE - Nickel + plexi
> GPU Block 2 - EK-FC Titan SE - Nickel + plexi
> GPU Block Backplate 1 - EK-FC Titan Backplate - Black
> GPU Block Backplate 2 - EK-FC Titan Backplate - Black
> Radiator 1 - EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (480)
> radiator 2 - EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (480)
> radiator 3 - EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (480)
> pump top - EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal
> reservoir - EK-RES X3 250 Reservoir
> coolant - K EKoolant Premium Liquid Cooling Premix Coolant - 1000ml - UV Blue
> coolant - K EKoolant Premium Liquid Cooling Premix Coolant - 1000ml - UV Blue
> 
> Add that to the rest of the build and I'll be swimming at 45C soon on the titans.
> Now to watch 100 videos on modding as this is my 1st proper water build.
> Which in the future should I want to add 2 more titans or the maxwell equivalent to make 4 gfx cards total shoudnt be too much of an issue to add to the loop.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Do we have an eta on CSQ BE blocks please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Take it from someone running 2 480 radiators..... 3 is insane overkill.


----------



## VSG

Thanks for the info, Tiborr. I was hoping to get some length subtraction from substituting the ACX cooler with the block like the case with the blower coolers on stock 290x but oh well!


----------



## tiborrr12

CSQ versions of EK-FB KIT R4BE will be available for purchase this (upcoming, whatever... depends on your time zone) week!


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Hey tiborrr! Who's the EK rep for PPCS?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Hey tiborrr! Who's the EK rep for PPCS?


LOL, i don't know... No one as far as I know. Why would PPCS need an EK rep?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Hey tiborrr! Who's the EK rep for PPCS?


I would be surprised if EK had the manpower to have dedicated sales Reps for different companies, probably just one person or two @EK that do sales/take orders.


----------



## Diablo85

any advice for someone with high temps on a delidded 4770k running 4.5ghz @ 1.25 volts under an EK Supremacy Clean CSQ other than remounting the block? is there a way to increase mounting pressure? i followed the instructions to the letter and still see 74C under IBT with 2 480mm rads.


----------



## tiborrr12

It's not the pressure (which is adequate and correct), it's the TIM. Use Coolaboratory Liquid Pro or Ultra! I guarantee you a 10°C drop or more!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> any advice for someone with high temps on a delidded 4770k running 4.5ghz @ 1.25 volts under an EK Supremacy Clean CSQ other than remounting the block? is there a way to increase mounting pressure? i followed the instructions to the letter and still see 74C under IBT with 2 480mm rads.


Actually, from what I've heard, MORE mounting pressure on a delidded CPU can cause high temps also. Basically, you want the block to just touch the CPU core with just enough pressure to keep the block from moving or allowing the CPU to move.

And just to clarify, did you delid the CPU and run it that way, or did you delid, reapply thermal paste undEr the IHS, then put the IHS back on? I guess I'm trying to say, what form of delid are you running?


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Actually, from what I've heard, MORE mounting pressure on a delidded CPU can cause high temps also. Basically, you want the block to just touch the CPU core with just enough pressure to keep the block from moving or allowing the CPU to move.
> 
> And just to clarify, did you delid the CPU and run it that way, or did you delid, reapply thermal paste undEr the IHS, then put the IHS back on? I guess I'm trying to say, what form of delid are you running?


I delidded, applied Coollabs Liquid Ultra, put the IHS back on and applied Noctua NT-H1 TIM on top as i don't have much CLU left.


----------



## MiiX

Spoiler: Off Topic



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> All that money in his build and he is using a mediocre PSU lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> that was my first thought too when i saw his change in psu choice lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> At least he'll be able to monitor his PSU blowing up lol


Diddnt know the AX1200's were that bad? The PSU he is using in part 2 is probably just a temporary one. Dont have the time to watch the whole video of part 2



How's the M6I block doing?


----------



## tiborrr12

We will launch either on Monday (6th) or Tuesday (7th).


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> LOL, i don't know... No one as far as I know. Why would PPCS need an EK rep?


I'll pm you.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Off Topic
> 
> 
> 
> Diddnt know the AX1200's were that bad? The PSU he is using in part 2 is probably just a temporary one. Dont have the time to watch the whole video of part 2


Hes not using a AX1200 hes using a NEX1500


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Hes not using a AX1200 hes using a NEX1500


And the EVGA NEX1500 is mediocre PSU?









Anyways, let's try to keep this on topic with EK stuff.


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Hes not using a AX1200 hes using a NEX1500


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> And the EVGA NEX1500 is mediocre PSU?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, let's try to keep this on topic with EK stuff.


The 1200 is a good PSU just over priced since other brand seek the exact same PSU for close to a $100 less at times. The 1500 is just garbage.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> Take it from someone running 2 480 radiators..... 3 is insane overkill.


It's never enough lol, I got 4 480 monstas in my rig atm and I'm trying to find a way to fit a 480 ut60 in also


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> It's never enough lol, I got 4 480 monstas in my rig atm and I'm trying to find a way to fit a 480 ut60 in also


This post is worthless without pictures!!!


----------



## szeged

I'll try to get some good shots when I get home


----------



## MiiX

EKWB.com, you are not working!









You guys are obviously to famous for the servers to handle


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> EKWB.com, you are not working!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You guys are obviously to famous for the servers to handle


Working here fine.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> It's never enough lol, I got 4 480 monstas in my rig atm and I'm trying to find a way to fit a 480 ut60 in also


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> This post is worthless without pictures!!!


Well I have 4 UT60 560 rads, 2 EK XTC420 Rads and 1 Mora 140*9 So I hope I have enough cooling. This does not incluse the monster 120 and the EK xt 360 that I am going to have on the server!!!


----------



## kcuestag

Epiphany day here in Spain, I feel like a little kid waiting for his gifts, hoping my EKWB order ships today, I'm going to burn the F5 key on my email.


----------



## Hogesyx

For those using fan gasket, do remember to remove them slowly if you need to. Manage to peel the paint off my XTX today.


----------



## X-oiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Not sure if you are interested but I searched a couple resellers which have them in stock, don't know where you are located


Sorry for late reply, I'm located in Sweden. Where did you find it in stock? I looked at overclockers.co.uk and aquatuning.se


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> Sorry for late reply, I'm located in Sweden. Where did you find it in stock? I looked at overclockers.co.uk and aquatuning.se


Tried Caseking.de or Highflow.nl? Those ship worldwide I believe, I use Caseking.de a lot.


----------



## X-oiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Tried Caseking.de or Highflow.nl? Those ship worldwide I believe, I use Caseking.de a lot.


Of course caseking.de had all I wanted from EK in stock plus way cheaper shipping wellwell I've already ordered directly from EK so my question still stands and ETA on the EK Water Blocks EK-DDC X-RES 140 3.2 PWM?









And thanks for the tip I will definitely check there before my next order


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Epiphany day here in Spain, I feel like a little kid waiting for his gifts, hoping my EKWB order ships today, I'm going to burn the F5 key on my email.


my rive be mobo block updated to shipped this morning so I believe they are back online.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> my rive be mobo block updated to shipped this morning so I believe they are back online.


You're going to excite a lot of people w/ that post.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> my rive be mobo block updated to shipped this morning so I believe they are back online.


Damn, my order is still in processing..


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> my rive be mobo block updated to shipped this morning so I believe they are back online.
> 
> 
> 
> Damn, my order is still in processing..
Click to expand...

I ordered mine on the 26th. I am still waiting on a package from frozencpu for 2 weeks. Between holiday delays and ups damaging the first one and a snow storm. it is a horrible time for shipping right now from any company.


----------



## Tomalak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Damn, my order is still in processing..


It might have been shipped today. I usually get an email/status update from EK the day after, saying "your order was shipped yesterday...".

Plus I'm also waiting for an order of mine to be shipped and EK assured me in an email it will happen today.

So be optimistic.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomalak*
> 
> It might have been shipped today. I usually get an email/status update from EK the day after, saying "your order was shipped yesterday...".
> 
> Plus I'm also waiting for an order of mine to be shipped and EK assured me in an email it will happen today.
> 
> So be optimistic.


That would be nice, although last order I did got an email right when it got shipped. We'll see though.


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I ordered mine on the 26th. I am still waiting on a package from frozencpu for 2 weeks. Between holiday delays and ups damaging the first one and a snow storm. it is a horrible time for shipping right now from any company.


I've got you beaten by 10 days and my is still in "Processing" despite selecting "rush processing". 10 more days and it'll be a full month!


----------



## wermad

Fcpu.com has the acetal and plexi copper versions in stock:

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c605/s1915/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Blocks_-_Motherboard-EK_Full_Board_Sets-Page1.html


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Fcpu.com has the acetal and plexi copper versions in stock:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c605/s1915/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Blocks_-_Motherboard-EK_Full_Board_Sets-Page1.html



Here I'll help you  - Nickel block is also order-able


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I ordered mine on the 26th. I am still waiting on a package from frozencpu for 2 weeks. Between holiday delays and ups damaging the first one and a snow storm. it is a horrible time for shipping right now from any company.
> 
> 
> 
> I've got you beaten by 10 days and my is still in "Processing" despite selecting "rush processing". 10 more days and it'll be a full month!
Click to expand...

was it a huge order or just the mobo block. I just ordered the mobo block from them and the rest from fcpu


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> was it a huge order or just the mobo block. I just ordered the mobo block from them and the rest from fcpu


No it wasn't even the motherboard block. I a 290x acetal block and backplate and other random stuff like fan extensions and radiator gaskets.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> No it wasn't even the motherboard block. I a 290x acetal block and backplate and other random stuff like fan extensions and radiator gaskets.


Pretty sure they are overloaded with orders and also christmas orders are delayed a lot.









I also ordered some 290(X) blocks (Nickel with clear/plexi top), tubing, and terminal bridges, if it didn't ship today, hope it does tomorrow, I'm starting my classes on Wednesday, I was hoping I could have installed everytthing before then, but then again it was Christmas holiday and I know EVERYTHING gets delayed during this time of the year.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> No it wasn't even the motherboard block. I a 290x acetal block and backplate and other random stuff like fan extensions and radiator gaskets.


I am assuming at least one of the items was not "in stock" ?

I got lucky, I ordered stuff on Thursday....one item I asked them to put on hold while it was still in stock but backplate was also outta stock.... I was picking up the order as would be nearby (well within 100 miles*) the following Tuesday and I got lucky sit came in Monday.

Yeah, $200 miles cost me $42 in gas but I saved $12 in shiping !!!!


----------



## kcuestag

Tomorrow will be another day, keeping my fingers crossed.


----------



## saer

The order I placed on the 24th for the RIVBE block still shows as processing


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Finally my R4BE has arrived. Time to get it installed.


----------



## strong island 1

my nickel block came today and my matching mobo be edition block should be here tommorrow. my tubes and fittings came also


----------



## kcuestag

Just got a reply off their ticket support system. Sadly my order is still being processed and it'll take another 5-10 working days before it actually ships, so there goes my chances of installing them this week.









My current 290X Nickel block looks so lonely in the drawer waiting for his match.


----------



## RAFFY

RIVBE has been shipped!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Do we have an eta on CSQ BE blocks please?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> CSQ versions of EK-FB KIT R4BE will be available for purchase this (upcoming, whatever... depends on your time zone) week!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


Does this help Wermad??


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Does this help Wermad??


Sweet, thank you good sir


----------



## derickwm

Lulz NOW I'm around to help more. Been having some real life drama pertaining to living situations, but I am finally settled! Also... Tiborrr won't be around anymore. Please direct all questions to me. You can PM me but I'd prefer if you just tagged me like so: @derickwm . Little bit more efficient


----------



## MiiX

Now as the M6I block is released, does the audio plug that were previously mentioned fit, the one for the front panel audio etc...?


----------



## Avonosac

Tiborrr got in twaaable.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Now as the M6I block is released, does the audio plug that were previously mentioned fit, the one for the front panel audio etc...?


It'll clear it, with some bending of the cables


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Tiborrr got in twaaable.


----------



## tSgt

Any details why Tiborrr won't be around anymore ?


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Any details why Tiborrr won't be around anymore ?


I think he was just filling for a couple weeks.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lulz NOW I'm around to help more. Been having some real life drama pertaining to living situations, but I am finally settled! Also... *Tiborrr won't be around anymore.* Please direct all questions to me. You can PM me but I'd prefer if you just tagged me like so: @derickwm
> . Little bit more efficient


That is unfortunate, I like him better.


----------



## VSG

^









Hey Derick, I just came across the EK youtube page and saw your videos. Make more of them! Also, mucho more people now want a 290x Lightning waterblock *hint*


----------



## X-oiL

Welcome Back @derickwm! Any ETA on this?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I have some clear EK coolant that arrived today. I have to ask. Is it normal for it to look yellow? Is it the bottle that is yellow? Or should I send this stuff back?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I have some clear EK coolant that arrived today. I have to ask. Is it normal for it to look yellow? Is it the bottle that is yellow? Or should I send this stuff back?


derick peed in the bottles just for you


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I have some clear EK coolant that arrived today. I have to ask. Is it normal for it to look yellow? Is it the bottle that is yellow? Or should I send this stuff back?


Send that back. It should be clear, unless EK are doing the cloudy piss edition.

On a side note, is it possible to buy replacement screws for the EK FC 290X water block? (The screws that actually hold the block together).

Thank you.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Send that back. It should be clear, unless EK are doing the cloudy piss edition.
> 
> On a side note, is it possible to buy replacement screws for the EK FC 290X water block? (The screws that actually hold the block together).
> 
> Thank you.


You can find the screws lots of places. Just find the size and thread (the instructions should have them). I was missing a few M2.5x10mm screws for two of my Lightning blocks. Quick purchase on ebay and i got my replacement screws. EK does sell hardware kits but it maybe cheaper to source them locally like at a hardware store or online via another retailer that specializes in screws.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> derick peed in the bottles just for you


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Send that back. It should be clear, unless EK are doing the cloudy piss edition.
> 
> On a side note, is it possible to buy replacement screws for the EK FC 290X water block? (The screws that actually hold the block together).
> 
> Thank you.


Or Maybe Tiborrr did, that's why he's no longer in the forums lol

You guys crack me up. I was so mad because my radiator arrived damaged and got piss instead of coolant, and now I can't stop laughing.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You can find the screws lots of places. Just find the size and thread (the instructions should have them). I was missing a few M2.5x10mm screws for two of my Lightning blocks. Quick purchase on ebay and i got my replacement screws. EK does sell hardware kits but it maybe cheaper to source them locally like at a hardware store or online via another retailer that specializes in screws.


I'll take a look in the instructions and get back to you, thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Or Maybe Tiborrr did, that's why he's no longer in the forums lol
> 
> You guys crack me up. I was so mad because my radiator arrived damaged and got piss instead of coolant, and now I can't stop laughing.


Glad we could help to some degree. Sorry about the dented rad. Hopefully the RMA will not take too long. I usually buy replacements, then return the faulty goods in exchange for a refund. Makes things quicker


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I have some clear EK coolant that arrived today. I have to ask. Is it normal for it to look yellow? Is it the bottle that is yellow? Or should I send this stuff back?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> derick peed in the bottles just for you
Click to expand...

:wubsmiley

Contact your retailer for a replacement.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I have some clear EK coolant that arrived today. I have to ask. Is it normal for it to look yellow? Is it the bottle that is yellow? Or should I send this stuff back?


It's not the bottle, unless their shop photos are 'shopped


----------



## wermad

@LaBestiaHumana, pour some out in a clear container or glass just to make sure its not the bottle creating this color from the outside.

nm


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I have some clear EK coolant that arrived today. I have to ask. Is it normal for it to look yellow? Is it the bottle that is yellow? Or should I send this stuff back?


I just love how the bottle says "CLEAR" on it.


----------



## RAFFY

Is it suppose to look like water? @derickwm Can you please post a picture of what the fluid looks like in the bottle and in a glass please?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I'm just gonna get it exchanged. Gotta send my radiator back anyways. I'm afraid that if I open it, it's gonna be un returnable.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I have some clear EK coolant that arrived today. I have to ask. Is it normal for it to look yellow? Is it the bottle that is yellow? Or should I send this stuff back?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not the bottle, unless their shop photos are 'shopped
Click to expand...

Hey hey I personally took and 'shopped that photo 

The "clear" is clear. Just like water.


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hey hey I personally took and 'shopped that photo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The "clear" is clear. Just like water.


Seriously?!?! Man I have to return another EK product in my build. You guys are killing me!


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hey hey I personally took and 'shopped that photo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The "clear" is clear. Just like water.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously?!?! Man I have to return another EK product in my build. You guys are killing me!
Click to expand...


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Seriously?!?! Man I have to return another EK product in my build. You guys are killing me!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Seriously?!?! Man I have to return another EK product in my build. You guys are killing me!


Did the same happen to you?


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Did the same happen to you?


Yup heres a picture, problem is I have 4 bottles to return. Water on the left and EK clear on the right.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Yup heres a picture, problem is I have 4 bottles to return. Water on the left and EK clear on the right.


It's supposed to have 2 years of shelf life. My bottles are dated 04/2013. Which means that even if we get fresh clear fluid, it might still turn yellow in a few months.

Please don't drink that. Lol


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> It's supposed to have 2 years of shelf life. My bottles are dated 04/2013. Which means that even if we get fresh clear fluid, it might still turn yellow in a few months.
> 
> Please don't drink that. Lol


Mine is February 2013, maybe there was a bad batch?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Mine is February 2013, maybe there was a bad batch?


That's a possibility.


----------



## BradleyW

I'd tell anyone to go with Mayhems X1. You guy's check out it's features.
Also, EK blocks state they are leak tested right? Well, both of my GPU blocks let fluid past the O-ring and was a matter of time before water came out. Had to refit the O-ring on one of them and tighten the blocks! Come on EK!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I'd tell anyone to go with Mayhems X1. You guy's check out it's features.
> Also, EK blocks state they are leak tested right? Well, both of my GPU blocks let fluid past the O-ring and was a matter of time before water came out. Had to refit the O-ring on one of them and tighten the blocks! Come on EK!


I'll check out Mayhem X1 and see if it suits my needs


----------



## Geoffrey4283

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It'll clear it, with some bending of the cables


Based on the above, does this mean the plastic housing/connector portion of the header ends before reaching the edge of the block, but is approximately level with the top, such that the wires running out and over place upward pressure on the whole assembly? Or do you mean that the wires most bend 90 degrees exiting the header/connector in order to escape from between the daughter card and the water block?

Really, this is one of those instances where a picture would be worth...
wait for it...
carry the one...
almost there...
never enough fingers...
99 words!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I'd tell anyone to go with Mayhems X1. You guy's check out it's features.
> Also, EK blocks state they are leak tested right? Well, both of my GPU blocks let fluid past the O-ring and was a matter of time before water came out. Had to refit the O-ring on one of them and tighten the blocks! Come on EK!


Could've moved in shipping. Leak testing is done for every block and has a sticker placed on each one by hand. If you didn't have a sticker, then it was missed, quite unlikely. If you do, it was tested.


----------



## seross69

sure you do!!! LOL kind of hard to see them all


----------



## derickwm

A bit late inthe night, getting ahead of myself


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> sure you do!!! LOL kind of hard to see them all


How many small scale production manufacturers have you worked for sir? Just curious.

I ran a CNC department for a major firearms maker in Arizona that also machined fluid control parts for the aerospace industry, and we checked EVERY single part we built, I figure it should be even easier for EK to check theirs since they are considerably larger than the parts we were making.

I've had over a dozen different EK blocks, and and that doesn't count CPU or mobo blocks, and I've never had a single one leak new out of the box.


----------



## wermad

So.....we're well into the *second* week of January and no CSQ BE block







. Just throwing that out there. Wallet patiently waiting







.


----------



## szeged

so is that 290x lightning block done yet? yes? glad to hear! go ahead and send me the link to pre order it derick


----------



## VSG

Don't tempt him into pulling out the "Soon" card again


----------



## derickwm

Haha trust me I'm first in line for a 290x Lightning block


----------



## VSG

Now all I need is for the price gouging to end and figure out how to fit 300mm long cards in my particular setup. I may have to drill in some holes and move over my reservoir further away from the motherboard.


----------



## Avonosac

I don't trust you derick. I don't trust you at all.

Not since you actually finished a build log.


----------



## Ardi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Yup heres a picture, problem is I have 4 bottles to return. Water on the left and EK clear on the right.


When I received my EK Coolant Clear they were as clear as water and now their color is tinted after sitting in the drawer (sealed bottle) for two months.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You can find the screws lots of places. Just find the size and thread (the instructions should have them). I was missing a few M2.5x10mm screws for two of my Lightning blocks. Quick purchase on ebay and i got my replacement screws. EK does sell hardware kits but it maybe cheaper to source them locally like at a hardware store or online via another retailer that specializes in screws.


Hardware store works ... easy to find matching black screws.... matching black nuts not so much.

Posted links here yesterday w/ links to hardware on FrozenCPU site


----------



## kcuestag

So much waiting only to get a faulty 290(X) plexi block.









It has a crack where the fc terminal is attached and leaks from there.









RMA now?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> So much waiting only to get a faulty 290(X) plexi block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It has a crack where the fc terminal is attached and leaks from there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RMA now?


Ouch


----------



## kcuestag

Just hoping they deal with RMA fast, was so excited to get both cards under water, looks like only one will be for now.


----------



## kcuestag

Here are some pictures of the mess:




(Top block is the one affected)

As you can see the block is cracked where the 3 screws go in, leaking from all three points (badly). I knew they were going to leak, but wanted to test before actually opening an RMA as I had waited long for this block to arrive...









I'll get in touch with EK, hopefully this is all sorted soon, meanwhile I am running just one card and left the other on it's box waiting for the block replacement.


----------



## szeged

EK will take care of you, where did you buy the block from? it shouldnt take long to get you a replacement


----------



## Ryanboost

Asked this earlier so I apologize if I missed a reply.

Will a back plate be made specifically for the GTX 780 Ti Classified?

I understand the normal GTX 780 Classified back plate will fit but I'm looking to find out if a Ti one is in the works before I purchase anything.

Thanks!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanboost*
> 
> Asked this earlier so I apologize if I missed a reply.
> 
> Will a back plate be made specifically for the GTX 780 Ti Classified?
> 
> I understand the normal GTX 780 Classified back plate will fit but I'm looking to find out if a Ti one is in the works before I purchase anything.
> 
> Thanks!


No there will not be a specific one made for the TI classified from EK as they need to use their time on newer products so they are leaving the 780 classified waterblock/backplate to be used as 780 ti classified blocks/backplates.

EVGA however does have specific backplates for the 780ti and they are compatible with EK blocks, but you may have to use some different sized screws, if youre willing to find them.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> EK will take care of you, where did you buy the block from? it shouldnt take long to get you a replacement


Ordered them straight from EK's Store as I thought it would be fastest (Which it was!), hope RMA wise it's also faster.









The only problem I see is shipping the broken block back to Slovenia will cost me a lot.


----------



## 4WDBenio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ardi*
> 
> When I received my EK Coolant Clear they were as clear as water and now their color is tinted after sitting in the drawer (sealed bottle) for two months.


Maybe the bottles they are stored in are leaching plasticisers..... oh no another conspiracy


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Ordered them straight from EK's Store as I thought it would be fastest (Which it was!), hope RMA wise it's also faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem I see is shipping the broken block back to Slovenia will cost me a lot.


can maybe get them to cover the shipping as its not your fault the block was broken.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> can maybe get them to cover the shipping as its not your fault the block was broken.


We'll see how it goes. The other blocks are fine and are being used right now.


----------



## Ryanboost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> No there will not be a specific one made for the TI classified from EK as they need to use their time on newer products so they are leaving the 780 classified waterblock/backplate to be used as 780 ti classified blocks/backplates.
> 
> EVGA however does have specific backplates for the 780ti and they are compatible with EK blocks, but you may have to use some different sized screws, if youre willing to find them.


Thanks so much for the information. Think I might give the EVGA ones a go.


----------



## kcuestag

Just sent an RMA form hoping it's dealt with fast.


----------



## Iniura

Just recevied my EK-FC R9-290X Copper Acetal block ordered on the 19th of December directly from EKWB.



Looking good guys


----------



## lilchronic

just got it today thought id take some pics


----------



## friskiest

Hey guys, just looking for some opinions on these images..

I'm telling myself I have nothing to worry about and that it's a natural reaction happening to cause this, but any further input and opinions would be appreciated greatly
















This block is second hand, I have no idea what the previous owner ran in the loop.

Thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Hey guys, just looking for some opinions on these images..
> 
> I'm telling myself I have nothing to worry about and that it's a natural reaction happening to cause this, but any further input and opinions would be appreciated greatly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This block is second hand, I have no idea what the previous owner ran in the loop.
> 
> Thanks


Open her up and wipe it down. Should give you a better indication if its just some discoloration that can be removed or something else







.

Btw, I know Ek will not honor the warranty beyond the original owner.

Brings back memories of my gold fish:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> just got it today thought id take some pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice sir


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Open her up and wipe it down. Should give you a better indication if its just some discoloration that can be removed or something else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Btw, I know Ek will not honor the warranty beyond the original owner.
> 
> Brings back memories of my gold fish:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks wermad, i'll open her up and have a look


----------



## szeged

hey derick, can you confirm if the EK 780 classy block will fit the kingpin card WITH the kingpin backplate on? or do we have to remove that for the block to fit? As much as im hating nvidia atm, i want to give the kingpin a shot before i grab a 290x lightning.


----------



## Pheozero

Speaking of the Lightnings, time to start bugging MSI for a sample









Day 1 blocks please.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Hey guys, just looking for some opinions on these images..
> 
> I'm telling myself I have nothing to worry about and that it's a natural reaction happening to cause this, but any further input and opinions would be appreciated greatly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This block is second hand, I have no idea what the previous owner ran in the loop.
> 
> Thanks


Just polish the block, doesn't look too bad. Just make sure the nickel isn't flaking.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Brings back memories of my gold fish:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You should go quad titan - quad color with this as your inspiration:


It would be BOSS


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> You should go quad titan - quad color with this as your inspiration:
> 
> 
> It would be BOSS


Had them on two titans and then three 780s


----------



## derickwm

I can't speak for sure on the Kingpin backplate as none of us have tried it. I imagine you'll need slightly longer mounting screws as usual when using the EVGA backplate with our blocks. I'll see if I can find out more info.


----------



## szeged

cool, i can get/make my own screws easy enough, as long as the holes line up


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I can't speak for sure on the Kingpin backplate as none of us have tried it. I imagine you'll need slightly longer mounting screws as usual when using the EVGA backplate with our blocks. I'll see if I can find out more info.


Did you guys get a copy of the kingpin? I remember you saying that it would need a new backplate and it was in the works.


----------



## derickwm

Not that I know of... But I haven't been in the office for quite some time now and haven't been entirely active on OCN the past month. Let me bother tiborrr.


----------



## VSG

Send him our love


----------



## kpoeticg

Any known issues with EK Blood Red Premix and Alphacool/XSPC rads? I just need something quick and easy to cool my CPU and maybe a GPU so I can use my rig while I'm working on my build.

No Nickel in my build.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Not that I know of... But I haven't been in the office for quite some time now and haven't been entirely active on OCN the past month. Let me bother tiborrr.


Website suggestion:

Dimensions of GFX cards w/ Water Blocks installed ..... one stumbling block many oif us face in doing our builds is seeing if the GFX cards will fit..... easy enough to get length of cards outta the box, but since many air coolers overhang the PCB, a GFX card that won't fit with an air cooler may fit w/ a EK WB. Ya have them there to check fit, so data should be readily available.


----------



## VSG

Yes, seconded. In the meantime, can you (Derrick) post dimensions of the MSI 780 lightning with your block and backplate on? The 290x lightning seems to be similar in PCB dimensions so this will give me an idea of the 290x lightning with your blocks and backplate on.


----------



## kcuestag

Looking at the picture of my block again....



You can see coolant inside where there shouldn't be any (Those bubbles in the top-left), which means the block wasn't sealed properly? I just hope they replace it on RMA soon, I haven't heard anything from RMA yet.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yes, seconded. In the meantime, can you (Derrick) post dimensions of the MSI 780 lightning with your block and backplate on? The 290x lightning seems to be similar in PCB dimensions so this will give me an idea of the 290x lightning with your blocks and backplate on.


Merp. Haven't got my blocks yet. All of yous keep buying them first!


----------



## VSG

Well then what's the point of working for EK?









Seriously though, if you can get that info it would be amazing. I am also very happy that non reference, non Asus blocks are selling so well for you guys


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yes, seconded. In the meantime, can you (Derrick) post dimensions of the MSI 780 lightning with your block and backplate on? The 290x lightning seems to be similar in PCB dimensions so this will give me an idea of the 290x lightning with your blocks and backplate on.


Hey I tried .....

http://www.overclock.net/t/1437498/data-resource-for-wcers-gfx-card-dimensions


----------



## nepToon

My future rig WIP, lots of EK. Still have to sand the Monarch block, waiting for the right polish to arrive







.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Looks nice !


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Nice ..... nit a fan of the circles but they look so much better w/o the smoked acrylic.

Are you gonna reseat the CPU block to have ports vertical ?

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup
Quote:


> Best orientation for water blocks cooling Haswell and Ivy Bridge - E CPUs


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> My future rig WIP, lots of EK. Still have to sand the Monarch block, waiting for the right polish to arrive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


looks good!
heres mine think i posted a pic already but here is another


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Nice ..... nit a fan of the circles but they look so much better w/o the smoked acrylic.
> 
> Are you gonna reseat the CPU block to have ports vertical ?
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


¨¨

Agreed on the polished blocks looking awesome, although I dont dislike the frost. It's just when the other two block are clear it'll fit in better once its polished. Hopefully I can do a decent job.
I'm aware of the orientation not being optimal, thanks for the hint though. If I can find a good way for tubing routing in that orientation I'll definetely try.

@lilchronic: nice picture quality, I see you left the leakproof sticker. I removed them.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Anyone know of any place in the states that just sells replacement spare parts for EK? I think I damaged my threading on my res top screwing in my compression fittings for fill tube and or screwing in my plug. I only noticed it since I tilted my rig a bit and coolant is leaked out of the top of the res. This can not be RMA'd correct? This is from a EK RESX3 150 which I bought this from FCPU roughly 4 months ago.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Anyone know of any place in the states that just sells replacement spare parts for EK? I think I damaged my threading on my res top screwing in my compression fittings for fill tube and or screwing in my plug. I only noticed it since I tilted my rig a bit and coolant is leaked out of the top of the res. This can not be RMA'd correct? This is from a EK RESX3 150 which I bought this from FCPU roughly 4 months ago.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


performance pcs and frozencpu should have this part for sale.


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> ¨¨
> 
> Agreed on the polished blocks looking awesome, although I dont dislike the frost. It's just when the other two block are clear it'll fit in better once its polished. Hopefully I can do a decent job.
> I'm aware of the orientation not being optimal, thanks for the hint though. If I can find a good way for tubing routing in that orientation I'll definetely try.
> 
> @lilchronic: nice picture quality, I see you left the leakproof sticker. I removed them.


yeah i really need a tripod or something though my hands are to shaky i had to rest it on something







...... i should probably take off the sticker


----------



## derickwm

Frozen has lots of our spare parts in their EK section.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Found it... thanks guys. Damn wished I remembered about my damaged top before ordering my QDCs from fcpu 2 days ago lol.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> ¨¨
> 
> Agreed on the polished blocks looking awesome, although I dont dislike the frost. It's just when the other two block are clear it'll fit in better once its polished. Hopefully I can do a decent job.
> I'm aware of the orientation not being optimal, thanks for the hint though. If I can find a good way for tubing routing in that orientation I'll definetely try.


I 1st went looking for the impacts because I wanted vertical as it made my tubing runs more uniform....was pleasantly surprised that change wud be in my favor.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Anyone know of any place in the states that just sells replacement spare parts for EK? I think I damaged my threading on my res top screwing in my compression fittings for fill tube and or screwing in my plug. I only noticed it since I tilted my rig a bit and coolant is leaked out of the top of the res. This can not be RMA'd correct? This is from a EK RESX3 150 which I bought this from FCPU roughly 4 months ago.


I'd recommend the EK Mulri-port top with the proper fill tube

EK X3 Reservoir Multiport Replacement Top - White (EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP WHITE)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18485/ex-res-481/EK_X3_Reservoir_Multiport_Replacement_Top_-_White_EK-RES_X3_-_Multiport_TOP_WHITE.html?id=4NiLmkLB&mv_pc=1254

Internal Tube 12/16 - 140mm (EK-RES-X3-TUBE-140)
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312

Just a note .... (been there done that) ... the res gets air locked with the single port top during filling...... once the fluid level reached the bottom of tube the air gets trapped. Need another port on cap to let it out



I used an EK Extender, M X M Bitspower extender , Bitspower valve and a plug for extra safety .... when res fills loosen the plug and crack air valve


----------



## Jimhans1

Nice looking rig Jack, just curious why I see all these Asus boards with the memory in, what asus says, is the wrong slots for a two-stick dual channel set up as the black slots are the primary slots for the motherboard. Just curious, as Asus has reported that it can have issues with trying to achieve higher OC's.

Edit: also, what case is that system in??


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Nice looking rig Jack, just curious why I see all these Asus boards with the memory in, what asus says, is the wrong slots for a two-stick dual channel set up as the black slots are the primary slots for the motherboard. Just curious, as Asus has reported that it can have issues with trying to achieve higher OC's.
> 
> Edit: also, what case is that system in??


Yeah, I'm surprised he had the guts to mix that aluminum "anodized" waterblock from his mobo with his loop.

We all know it just takes one microscopic chip or crack to start the infamous process









I personally like the color scheme, i just wasnt a fan of using acrylic tubing if you aren't going to bend it. just looks like a bunch of expensive fittings


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> *Yeah, I'm surprised he had the guts to mix that aluminum "anodized" waterblock from his mobo with his loop.
> 
> We all know it just takes one microscopic chip or crack to start the infamous process
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> I personally like the color scheme, i just wasnt a fan of using acrylic tubing if you aren't going to bend it. just looks like a bunch of expensive fittings


Doesn't take guts, it takes knowledge of metallurgy and finishes. The Type 3 anodizing used on that block is such a thick layer that if there was a "chip" or crack in it, the actual block would likely leak anyways. It's not a surface finish like Type 1 or most other finishes applied to base metals. I definitely plan to include it in my loop when I get to that build in the next month or two.

And I'm not a big fan anymore of the rigid plus fittings method of tubing myself either, I prefer the formed rigid build styles. But it still looks great.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Doesn't take guts, it takes knowledge of metallurgy and finishes. The Type 3 anodizing used on that block is such a thick layer that if there was a "chip" or crack in it, the actual block would likely leak anyways. It's not a surface finish like Type 1 or most other finishes applied to base metals. I definitely plan to include it in my loop when I get to that build in the next month or two.
> 
> And I'm not a big fan anymore of the rigid plus fittings method of tubing myself either, I prefer the formed rigid build styles. But it still looks great.


Where did you find that it is type 3 and not type 2 anodized? I've been trying to research this board.

Honestly, I get what your saying, yet with that knowledge you will also know you still run more risk of having a problem then you do of not.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Where did you find that it is type 3 and not type 2 anodized? I've been trying to research this board.
> 
> Honestly, I get what your saying, yet with that knowledge you will also know you still run more risk of having a problem then you do of not.


Type 1 and type 2 aluminum anodizing is really only a cosmetic anodizing to help dye the metal, type 3 or sulfuric acid Hard Coat anodizing, is the only anodizing that will leave a surface finish on it like that of the block used in the M6F, so the type of anodizing in this case is plainly visible. The only possible issue for it in this situation would be if the heatsink/block were able to reach 80c+ temps, since the anodizing doesn't expand the same as the underlying aluminum, it could cause it to crack. Having worked in the metal fabrication industry in the past using this type of anodizing, I personally have zero issue with using it in a cooling loop. And if in my use I find corrosion (hasn't happened yet for me with a type III anodized part) I will gladly eat my words.


----------



## skyn3t

Hi
@derickwm

Once again thank you for been a great support for us @ OCN.

I'm preparing myself for the K|nG P|n Edition day one. I like to know since the EK Classy WB fit's on Classy Ti, can you tell me if the same block will fit on the KPE ?

Thank you
best
skyn3t


----------



## derickwm

Yup the EK 780 Classy block fits all 3, 780 Classy, 780 Ti Classy and 780 KPE.


----------



## szeged

see i told you sky


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Type 1 and type 2 aluminum anodizing is really only a cosmetic anodizing to help dye the metal, type 3 or sulfuric acid Hard Coat anodizing, is the only anodizing that will leave a surface finish on it like that of the block used in the M6F, so the type of anodizing in this case is plainly visible. The only possible issue for it in this situation would be if the heatsink/block were able to reach 80c+ temps, since the anodizing doesn't expand the same as the underlying aluminum, it could cause it to crack. Having worked in the metal fabrication industry in the past using this type of anodizing, I personally have zero issue with using it in a cooling loop. And if in my use I find corrosion (hasn't happened yet for me with a type III anodized part) I will gladly eat my words.


I wasn't confused on the different types of anodized metal

I am confused on where you got the information that it is a type III anodized finish

I can only find speculation that it is Type II so I am really curious where you were able to find that it is Type III. Manufacturer specs sure don't show


----------



## Etaloche

Current build I'm working on, just got the EK Monarch and the FC block for the 290X with the backplate


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> I wasn't confused on the different types of anodized metal
> 
> I am confused on where you got the information that it is a type III anodized finish
> 
> I can only find speculation that it is Type II so I am really curious where you were able to find that it is Type III. Manufacturer specs sure don't show


Well, as I said in the previous post, T1&T2 are visually identical, only T3 can have the look the way this block does, and since I have one personally, it's was easy for me to take the block off and inspect it with a punch style hardness tester, and since T1&T2 are only a surface finish, they have the same hardness as the substrate, and T3 is a much harder surface (harder than any bare aluminum alloy CAN be) and it's testing off the scale for aluminum hardness, so it can only be T3. The block itself on my board has a Brinnell harness of 170, that's higher than any heat treatable aluminum alloy on the market, so again, it can only be a T3 anodizing.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Well, as I said in the previous post, T1&T2 are visually identical, only T3 can have the look the way this block does, and since I have one personally, it's was easy for me to take the block off and inspect it with a punch style hardness tester, and since T1&T2 are only a surface finish, they have the same hardness as the substrate, and T3 is a much harder surface (harder than any bare aluminum alloy CAN be) and it's testing off the scale for aluminum hardness, so it can only be T3. The block itself on my board has a Brinnell harness of 170, that's higher than any heat treatable aluminum alloy on the market, so again, it can only be a T3 anodizing.


Ahh okay, from experience.
I was not sure if you were assuming it was type 3 or had a source that published that it was type 3.
I want to take your word for it, I just have hard time with manufacturers who don't list this type of info

Can the type 3 anodized aluminum still fall into the same category as Type 1/2 though?
Example:
if there is a scratch on the type 3 anodized surface, over time is it still gradually going to result into a deeper scratch untill ultimately it reaches the aluminum?


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yup the EK 780 Classy block fits all 3, 780 Classy, 780 Ti Classy and 780 KPE.


A'm getting it now







thank you once more.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> see i told you sky


----------



## wermad

Ah, finally Derick finds out about the Ti









Now need an answer on the BE CSQ block


----------



## kcuestag

Good and bad news. Good news is EK will be replacing my 290 Nickel block for a new one, bad news is I have to pay for shipping back to Slovenia, which will probably cost me quite a bit...









Not sure if it's even worth it to ship it to Slovenia, I'll have to see....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Good and bad news. Good news is EK will be replacing my 290 Nickel block for a new one, bad news is I have to pay for shipping back to Slovenia, which will probably cost me quite a bit...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if it's even worth it to ship it to Slovenia, I'll have to see....


I figured they would find a way to do an exchange with either FCPU or PPCS. Or at least send you a ups prepaid label for the shipping back to them. Kinda sucks that they are playing that game.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I figured they would find a way to do an exchange with either FCPU or PPCS. Or at least send you a ups prepaid label for the shipping back to them. Kinda sucks that they are playing that game.


I live in Spain though, no FCPU or PPCS. I'll see if I can get them to at least help me with half the shipping or something through UPS, DHL, or whatever method they want me to.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I live in Spain though, no FCPU or PPCS. I'll see if I can get them to at least help me with half the shipping or something through UPS, DHL, or whatever method they want me to.


Lol, ooops, I didn't look at location before I posted. Sorry. Since it was broken in shipping, it shouldn't be your responsibility in my opinion. I could be wrong though. Every company is different.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, ooops, I didn't look at location before I posted. Sorry. Since it was broken in shipping, it shouldn't be your responsibility in my opinion. I could be wrong though. Every company is different.


Still, we have many shipping companies here in Spain which are known world wide like DHL, UPS, Feddex... I'd think they would just give me a shipping label. Shipping it my self, on cheapest way (No tracking, which I wouldn't trust on a 100€ block) would probably be somewhere between 25 and 50€.


----------



## kcuestag

They have offered me to ship me a replacement plexi top so that I can install it my self, although it will be under my responsability if it leaks. I'll see if I can get them to cross-ship me a whole new waterblock while I ship them back the faulty one, I'd prefer that over installing it my self.

Edit:

Well, that's not possible, so I'll go ahead and get a new plexi top from them and install it my self. Shouldn't be hard as I've done it on my plexi CPU block before.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> They have offered me to ship me a replacement plexi top so that I can install it my self, although it will be under my responsability if it leaks. I'll see if I can get them to cross-ship me a whole new waterblock while I ship them back the faulty one, I'd prefer that over installing it my self.


It's really easy to put it on. I'd take the replacement top were it me, and just swap them. Still saves you 25-50€ in shipping.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It's really easy to put it on. I'd take the replacement top were it me, and just swap them. Still saves you 25-50€ in shipping.


To be fair I don't want to mess it up, so I told the guy in RMA that I'll just ship it back to them.


----------



## natsu2014

Anybody knows what size of allen key do I need to remove 3 middle screws in 670dc2 block? My keys are either too big or too small


----------



## szeged

Hey derick, is the plexi version of the 780 classy block EOL or is it just not made that often? i need to get another three, decided to grab 4 kingpin classys at launch so i can bin them instead of doing one at a time like ive been doing lol. Performance-pcs doesnt even have them listed, which is my go to place since they are just a couple hours away, and frozen cpu has had them listed as "orderable" for months, which im assuming means that if they get an order in, they will put an order in with you guys for some more? thanks.


----------



## derickwm

Just aren't made very often. I'll see if I can find out an eta for ya.


----------



## kcuestag

I decided I'll just ask EK for the plexi top and install it my self, I practiced with the faulty one and it was quite easy to place the orings back.


----------



## Ragsters

I'm really interested in the new PE series radiators (480 rad). Are there any reviews worth looking at? With the fin density so high will a set of Typhoons (middle speed) in push be enough?


----------



## Deano12345

Getting ready to order all the parts for my first loop. Hoping to get it on Wednesday and have it built that night. Will definitely post pictures


----------



## Jimhans1

Can anyone at EK tell me why the new PE rads are 6-32 threads for fan screws and the XT/XTX are all M3? I'm guessing from the prices that maybe they are coming from a different OEM maker?


----------



## kcuestag

@Jimhans1 I was able to remove my faulty plexi top and install it again, was quite easy.









Hopefully they ship the replacement plexi top tomorrow.


----------



## lootbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just aren't made very often. I'll see if I can find out an eta for ya.


I was going to contact EK support about an ETA as well.
Hopefully I can get an answer here, just bought two 780 Classifieds!


----------



## Jimhans1

@kcuestag Glad to hear it bro!


----------



## defiler2k

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I'm really interested in the new PE series radiators (480 rad). Are there any reviews worth looking at? With the fin density so high will a set of Typhoons (middle speed) in push be enough?


I have two of these with cougars at 35% -65% depending on temp on push pull and they perform quite well. I'm very happy with the build and performance.


----------



## Deano12345

Actually guys, quick question, ordering off EK's own webshop, does anyone know the cutoff time to get an order next day if you select the one day DHL shipping option ?


----------



## derickwm

There isn't really one. Our webshop orders are managed by a very small team. Shipping rates correspond to DHL handling time, our orders go out first come first serve basis for the most part. Saying that, the best chance for an order to go out the same day it's ordered is before 10am Ljubljana local time, no guarantee though.


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> There isn't really one. Our webshop orders are managed by a very small team. Shipping rates correspond to DHL handling time, our orders go out first come first serve basis for the most part. Saying that, the best chance for an order to go out the same day it's ordered is before 10am Ljubljana local time, no guarantee though.


Perfect ! Should be going in fairly early in the AM, bringing my laptop with me to work to order !









Thanks !


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Nice looking rig Jack, just curious why I see all these Asus boards with the memory in, what asus says, is the wrong slots for a two-stick dual channel set up as the black slots are the primary slots for the motherboard. Just curious, as Asus has reported that it can have issues with trying to achieve higher OC's.
> 
> Edit: also, what case is that system in??


yes Asus is driving me nutz with that .... for years I been telling peeps *2nd and 4th from CPU dude* and now they do a switcheroo on me.



The case is Case of the Year (CES 2014) Enthoo Primo .... they introduced a white one, white and blacl one and two smaller models at $89 and $139 too at CES.

Primo is $209 on newegg rt now.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Type 1 and type 2 aluminum anodizing is really only a cosmetic anodizing to help dye the metal, type 3 or sulfuric acid Hard Coat anodizing, is the only anodizing that will leave a surface finish on it like that of the block used in the M6F, so the type of anodizing in this case is plainly visible. The only possible issue for it in this situation would be if the heatsink/block were able to reach 80c+ temps, since the anodizing doesn't expand the same as the underlying aluminum, it could cause it to crack. Having worked in the metal fabrication industry in the past using this type of anodizing, I personally have zero issue with using it in a cooling loop. And if in my use I find corrosion (hasn't happened yet for me with a type III anodized part) I will gladly eat my words.


I just got done typing the same thing in another post.. including the 80C stuff ..







wish id seen yurs 1st !.... the three VRMs are at 29, 33 and 33C atm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> if there is a scratch on the type 3 anodized surface, over time is it still gradually going to result into a deeper scratch untill ultimately it reaches the aluminum?


As Jim said, it's a very hard surface, you'd have to put some effort and hardened metal in there to scratch it....if the scratch was at a point of dissimilar metal contact, and there was a high presence of chlorides in the liquid, you would have localized corrosion.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> One loop is always more efficient and will always cool better than two loops.
> If you think flow is a concern, install your two pumps in series in the one loop.


Well ya do use more electricity and a 35x2 would prolly suffice tho pressure would be up there .... but 14 x 140mm rads is a lot along with 4 GFX cards. But the best thing about multiple loops is that ya can 1) build gradually w/o ripping anything down and 2) use multiple color coolants


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

I just want to thank the EK team as a whole. You guys put up with all my non stop questions and sorted out my RMA with the quickness.
I can't thank you dudes enough.


----------



## Jflisk

@Derrickwm - Can you check with the factory and find out when the 7990 water blocks will be back in stock. Appreciate it Thanks


----------



## kcuestag

EK is shipping me today a new plexi top for my EK FC R9 290(X) - Nickel block with cracked plexi top. Can't wait to recieve it and finally enjoy the block on both cards.


----------



## Deano12345

Ordered today at 12, hopefully I'll have it tomorrow. Just need to pick up some fans locally and then I'm done


----------



## note

My latest build using mostly EK parts..











Complete build log:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1438884/build-log-evga-hadron-golden-nugget-water-cooled-mini-itx-finally-done


----------



## Archea47

That 's a gorgeous build, note


----------



## tSgt

Agree,

My HTPC will probably end up in a EVGA Hadron


----------



## lowfat

Polished single link bridges look so hot.


----------



## BradleyW

That's a good build note! Here is my build. It looks 10 times better in real life because I had to use flash on a crap camera.


----------



## Jimhans1

@BradleyW
Lol, Why is your build sitting on blocks like a car in a ******** front yard?

Looking good though.


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> @BradleyW
> Lol, Why is your build sitting on blocks like a car in a ******** front yard?
> 
> Looking good though.


Because Rent-A-Center came and repo'd his gaming room lol


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Because Rent-A-Center came and repo'd his gaming room lol


lolz


----------



## WhoKnew22

Hey guys, bought the X-Res Top 140 and one of the M4 Rubber Dampeners doesn't have any threads tapped, anyone have ideas for substitutes or a place to get a replacement? Thanks


----------



## derickwm

Please create a support ticket on our support website and we should be able to get it sorted for you, apologies for the inconvenience.


----------



## King4x4

I like EK gear.... yes I do!


----------



## derickwm

Pro-tips


----------



## Archea47

King4x4,

I look forward to building and posting pictures of my EK-equipped loop this weekend but pictures of rigs like yours keep me humble


----------



## derickwm

For those that were asking me about 780 Classy Plexi restock they should be here soon. Parts are in house and should be hitting assembly shortly.

Oh and somebody was asking me about 7990 SE blocks, I believe we're getting a batch ready tomorrow.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> For those that were asking me about 780 Classy Plexi restock they should be here soon. Parts are in house and should be hitting assembly shortly.
> 
> Oh and somebody was asking me about 7990 SE blocks, I believe we're getting a batch ready tomorrow.


@ derrickwm -Thanks for the info on the 7990.


----------



## Gunderman456

Here are my r9 290 EK blocks and backplates under water!


----------



## MiiX

Can anyone confirm that these are the screws that EK supplies with the XTX360 radiator?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Can anyone confirm that these are the screws that EK supplies with the XTX360 radiator?


The screws EK sends are M3-.5x30mm Pan head screws, NOT flat head screws.

Edit: these http://www.fullermetric.com/products/machine/din7985phillips_pan_head.aspx


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The screws EK sends are M3-.5x30mm Pan head screws, NOT flat head screws.
> 
> Edit: these http://www.fullermetric.com/products/machine/din7985phillips_pan_head.aspx


Okay... Weird. The XTX360 page says its the DIN 965...
I'd love to be wrong, cause 7985's looks better and fits better in my project


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Okay... Weird. The XTX360 page says its the DIN 965...
> I'd love to be wrong, cause 7985's looks better and fits better in my project


When I get home I'll take a photo of them, I've got a system with 3 of their XTX rads in it, and I used different screws than theirs to match my build in stainless, the originals were pan heads, that much I can guarantee.

All that matters the most is the thread pitch of the screws and the length, the head doesn't make contact with the rads! Also, because the flat heads include the head in the measurement of the length, it can throw things off.....


----------



## wermad

is there an xtx 560







?


----------



## BradleyW

Repost as requested:


----------



## Hogesyx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Repost as requested:


Side mounted micro res looks really good! Very tempted to buy one.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogesyx*
> 
> Side mounted micro res looks really good! Very tempted to buy one.


Thanks, it seems to work well overall and easy to fill.


----------



## killacam7478

Hi Guys,

I wanted to put some LED's into my CPU block, as it had two slots for them (3mm). I ordered a few (not directly from EK due to shipping costs) and they ended up being XSPC brand. Anyway, I put them in last night and they don't appear to go all the way into the LED hole. Sorry I forgot to take photos last night, but I was wondering if others have LED's in their CPU block. Mine basically looks like it's halfway in, light coming from the inside of the block, then a little light on the outside as well. I'll definitely take photos later, but wondering if anyone knew whether I bought ones that are incompatible, or if that's just how they typically fit. Thanks.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> I like EK gear.... yes I do!


Any particular reason why you have card 2 on the second 8x slot? The two 16x slots are 1 and 3.


----------



## King4x4

No reason what so ever.
Just did it for pure aesthatics.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

16x and 16x ! the second must be 8x right, then you have to put it in number 4 is the next 16x.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Hey, i'm currently installing the waterblock to my HIS Radeon HD 7970 Ghz Edition.. i noticed there is a metal black back rib behind the gpu chip.. do i install that as well with backplate or without the metal rib X plate ?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Hey, i'm currently installing the waterblock to my HIS Radeon HD 7970 Ghz Edition.. i noticed there is a metal black back rib behind the gpu chip.. do i install that as well with backplate or without the metal rib X plate ?


What type of block most blocks do not require it. They use screws and washers most of the time. Instructions for block should show it.

example instructions
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109856291.pdf


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> 16x and 16x ! the second must be 8x right, then you have to put it in number 4 is the next 16x.


They are not counting every slot sir, they are only referring to the full length x16 style slots, so when he said 1 & 3, he was correct. There are 4 x16 length slots, and in a two card setup, to get full speed from each card, he would use the 1st and 3rd slots.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Ok sorry, then i count wrong


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killacam7478*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I wanted to put some LED's into my CPU block, as it had two slots for them (3mm). I ordered a few (not directly from EK due to shipping costs) and they ended up being XSPC brand. Anyway, I put them in last night and they don't appear to go all the way into the LED hole. Sorry I forgot to take photos last night, but I was wondering if others have LED's in their CPU block. Mine basically looks like it's halfway in, light coming from the inside of the block, then a little light on the outside as well. I'll definitely take photos later, but wondering if anyone knew whether I bought ones that are incompatible, or if that's just how they typically fit. Thanks.


Any 3mm LEDs will work. I got these from PPC and they fit perfect!!

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_837&products_id=21665

those are blue but they have lots of colors!!


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> They are not counting every slot sir, they are only referring to the full length x16 style slots, so when he said 1 & 3, he was correct. There are 4 x16 length slots, and in a two card setup, to get full speed from each card, he would use the 1st and 3rd slots.


If those are the 780s, he is fine on PCI 3.0 and x8. I didn't get any benchmark benefit on triple 780s going from PCI 2.0 x8 to 3.0 x8 with the nvidia reg hack. Maybe I'm wrong and there is some chart showing it maxes out PCI 3.0 x8?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> If those are the 780s, he is fine on PCI 3.0 and x8. I didn't get any benchmark benefit on triple 780s going from PCI 2.0 x8 to 3.0 x8 with the nvidia reg hack. Maybe I'm wrong and there is some chart showing it maxes out PCI 3.0 x8?


I didn't say he was going to be bottlenecked by his setup, I just said it's not "technically" correct for a two way setup. Since we really aren't even bottlenecked by PCIe 2.0 as of right now, it really doesn't even matter. I was just making the comment to clarify what a different person had said/asked.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> What type of block most blocks do not require it. They use screws and washers most of the time. Instructions for block should show it.
> 
> example instructions
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109856291.pdf


With the backplate i have bought for it as well? I think you can't install the metal x plate with the EK backplate as well imo.. am I wrong?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> With the backplate i have bought for it as well? I think you can't install the metal x plate with the EK backplate as well imo.. am I wrong?


Usually with any of the water blocks I have installed. You use the screws and washers that came with the waterblock only.The metal bracket/x plate gets tossed and 4 screws with washers goes in its place.Then I take the back plate an re install it. that's with the high end cards that have a full back plate.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Usually with any of the water blocks I have installed. You use the screws and washers that came with the waterblock only.The metal bracket/x plate gets tossed and 4 screws with washers goes in its place.Then I take the back plate an re install it. that's with the high end cards that have a full back plate.


Ah i see, alright thanks a bunch mate, take care


----------



## Pheozero

The EK X-res 140 is a bit larger than I expected. Anyways, is it possible to combine the D5/DDC res holder with a UN bracket? I don't want to drill holes in my case.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> The EK X-res 140 is a bit larger than I expected. Anyways, is it possible to combine the D5/DDC res holder with a UN bracket? I don't want to drill holes in my case.


Yes it is, I have my D5 pump res combo installed using an un bracket because it held my pump straight as it distributed the weight evenly compared to just using the supplied bracket which caused the pump to sag.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Are there any EK reps here that I can talk to in private? ...I have an order problem that I need resolved.


----------



## derickwm

PM me with your order#.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

I do not like seeing the EK Webstore out of 290x waterblocks


----------



## snef

just to share this beauty by EK


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> I do not like seeing the EK Webstore out of 290x waterblocks


They make well over hundred 290X waterblocks a day and are shipped almost the same day (Except Christmas which had a bit of delay which is normal). The Nickel block (Plexi top) was on stock this morning, I'm sure if you order it now it'll be shipped either Monday or Tuesday.


----------



## lilchronic

not the best pic or best looking rig but .......EK!


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> just to share this beauty by EK
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a thing of beauty. Color me ignorant, but what the heck is the knob on the back?!


----------



## VSG

Derick, are you guys still going ahead with making the new backplate for the 780 Ti Classified KPE? I noticed you have a backplate rev 2 listed on the cooling configurator but nothing linked on the store.


----------



## killacam7478

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Any 3mm LEDs will work. I got these from PPC and they fit perfect!!
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_837&products_id=21665
> 
> those are blue but they have lots of colors!!


Thanks for the link! I might end up ordering...I actually bought two from Amazon (one white and one blue). Here is what I meant about not going in all the way.

The ends of them just stick out a little bit. Not a huge deal, just curious. Thanks again


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killacam7478*
> 
> Thanks for the link! I might end up ordering...I actually bought two from Amazon (one white and one blue). Here is what I meant about not going in all the way
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of them just stick out a little bit. Not a huge deal, just curious. Thanks again


the ones I gave you a link to fit in all the way as you can see from the below pictures!!



Hope this helps!!!


----------



## Johri

Got my parts earlier this week, going to be doing my first custom loop this weekend!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johri*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got my parts earlier this week, going to be doing my first custom loop this weekend!


Nice Box of goodies need my address again??


----------



## DampMonkey

Absolutely love the monolithic look of my new FC Terminal Block! Ek always delivers


----------



## snef

some night shoot of "Sand of God"


----------



## Johri

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Nice Box of goodies need my address again??


I think most parts vendors should have your address by now!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johri*
> 
> I think most parts vendors should have your address by now!










True!!!


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some night shoot of "Sand of God"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very nice


----------



## Elmy

EK thinking of accepting Bitcoin for payment anytime soon?





 I'll leave this here too. <3 EK watercooling.


----------



## derickwm

Wouldn't count on it.


----------



## MedRed

Any chance you guys will make non frosted versions of the plexi with circles CSQ blocks?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> Any chance you guys will make non frosted versions of the plexi with circles CSQ blocks?


Why? It only takes a few minutes and some elbow grease to make them clear.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> They make well over hundred 290X waterblocks a day and are shipped almost the same day (Except Christmas which had a bit of delay which is normal). The Nickel block (Plexi top) was on stock this morning, I'm sure if you order it now it'll be shipped either Monday or Tuesday.


I have to wait till a re-seller carries it, I need to save that $50 from block+shipping prices


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> I have to wait till a re-seller carries it, I need to save that $50 from block+shipping prices


I got a block with cracks on the plexi top (One out of 3 blocks) but EK was very fast and nice and they shipped me a plexi top replacement (So that I don't need to ship the whole block back my self) and it should be here on Monday.


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Why? It only takes a few minutes and some elbow grease to make them clear.


no warranty and the pain of dealing with the gaskets, especially for 3 gpus, cpu, ram, and mobo.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I got a block with cracks on the plexi top (One out of 3 blocks) but EK was very fast and nice and they shipped me a plexi top replacement (So that I don't need to ship the whole block back my self) and it should be here on Monday.


Nice









As much as I would like to order directly from EK, I can not.
It is $159.6 USD for a block that I can get for $115 shipped








One isn't that much of a factor but if I buy 3 blocks, the additional price is the cost of a full block by itself


----------



## SeeThruHead

Interview with founder Eddy Konig.


----------



## Iniura

The fittings used here are EK-PSC Fittings right? Why don't you sell them in your online store and how can I get them?


----------



## derickwm

Those would be in house specials  we don't sell them, for a variety of reasons.


----------



## Iniura

That's pretty mehhhh


----------



## ozzy1925

guys , i want to buy all my blocks from ek but as i hear most people having problems with the nickel plating is it a humour ?Should i go with copper instead ?And i want to buy these parts from frozen cpu and some from ppcs.If anything happens should i send them back to these resellers or back to Ek?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys , i want to buy all my blocks from ek but as i hear most people having problems with the nickel plating is it a humour ?Should i go with copper instead ?And i want to buy these parts from frozen cpu and some from ppcs.If anything happens should i send them back to these resellers or back to Ek?


The Nickel issues as far as I know have been resolved, that was back in the GX500 era around 2011. I had some 580 blocks that flaked a little bit, but I have had ZERO issue with blocks for the GTX660Ti, GTX680, and GTX780TI. All I run now are EK Nickel Plexi blocks, and I whole heartedly recommend them.

Edit: If your in Turkey, why not get them straight from EK?? Just Curious.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys , i want to buy all my blocks from ek but as i hear most people having problems with the nickel plating is it a humour ?Should i go with copper instead ?And i want to buy these parts from frozen cpu and some from ppcs.If anything happens should i send them back to these resellers or back to Ek?


As long as you use the liquid (and additives) ek recommends for their nickel blocks, they will honor warranty on them. Since you're closer to the EU, any rma will probably go through them, rather then fcpu.com and/or ppcs.com,

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The Nickel issues as far as I know have been resolved, that was back in the GX500 era around 2011. I had some 580 blocks that flaked a little bit, but I have had ZERO issue with blocks for the GTX660Ti, GTX680, and GTX780TI. All I run now are EK Nickel Plexi blocks, and I whole heartedly recommend them.
> 
> Edit: If your in Turkey, why not get them straight from EK?? Just Curious.


It started w/ the GTX 4xx series;

http://www.overclock.net/t/915966/please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel-plated-blocks-update-revised-plating-info

Finally, gonna order a mb block. A different one since I'm not keeping the BE










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The Nickel issues as far as I know have been resolved, that was back in the GX500 era around 2011. I had some 580 blocks that flaked a little bit, but I have had ZERO issue with blocks for the GTX660Ti, GTX680, and GTX780TI. All I run now are EK Nickel Plexi blocks, and I whole heartedly recommend them.
> 
> Edit: If your in Turkey, why not get them straight from EK?? Just Curious.


ah i see then i can get nickel ones and ek normal post option doesnt have insurance also dhl takes too much shipping +customs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> As long as you use the liquid (and additives) ek recommends for their nickel blocks, they will honor warranty on them. Since you're closer to the EU, any rma will probably go through them, rather then fcpu.com and/or ppcs.com,
> It started w/ the GTX 4xx series;
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/915966/please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel-plated-blocks-update-revised-plating-info
> 
> Finally, gonna order a mb block. A different one since I'm not keeping the BE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i would like to use mayhems pastel coolant white.Is that a problem?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> ah i see then i can get nickel ones and ek normal post option doesnt have insurance also dhl takes too much shipping +customs.
> i would like to use mayhems pastel coolant white.Is that a problem?


Mayhems, works great with the EK blocks. In fact, it's the only coolant I use in my systems. And I believe it's all been fully tested with their blocks besides just me using it.


----------



## neSSa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Yes, it's in the works. Expect it early-mid January: http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1204


Any new information ?


----------



## Deano12345

Should have all my stuff tomorrow, according to DHL its sitting in East Midlands airport ! Hopefully set it up before I have to go photograph a gig. Too excited


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys , i want to buy all my blocks from ek but as i hear most people having problems with the nickel plating is it a humour ?Should i go with copper instead ?And i want to buy these parts from frozen cpu and some from ppcs.If anything happens should i send them back to these resellers or back to Ek?


Most is very, very inaccurate. Thousands of blocks leave our warehouse and less than <1% come back for RMA. The people who do experience issues just like to post about it more than those who don't









If you buy blocks from resellers compared to our web shop you send the blocks back to them in the case that an RMA is necessary, even if you are located in Turkey.


----------



## montyman03

You happen to know if any 780 Classified blocks are on their way to performance-pcs or frozencpu? They have been out of stock for a few weeks now.


----------



## derickwm

I heard the plexi varient would be in assembly soon so I would imagine there'd be some on their way to PPCs and Frozen. Only takes 1-3 days for shipping.


----------



## King4x4

I bought over a 100 blocks for my clients and all of them from EK.

Had only one problem with a block and it was easily resolved through spare parts.


----------



## montyman03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I heard the plexi varient would be in assembly soon so I would imagine there'd be some on their way to PPCs and Frozen. Only takes 1-3 days for shipping.


yeah, PPCs just emailed me back saying EK was out of stock so they couldn't order any in at this time. Not sure about frozen.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I heard the plexi varient would be in assembly soon so I would imagine there'd be some on their way to PPCs and Frozen. Only takes 1-3 days for shipping.


Any idea about the acetal variant? Also, the backplate rev 2.0 for the KPE? Thanks again


----------



## nepToon

Polished my Monarch block, I'm loving the look


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> If those are the 780s, he is fine on PCI 3.0 and x8. I didn't get any benchmark benefit on triple 780s going from PCI 2.0 x8 to 3.0 x8 with the nvidia reg hack. Maybe I'm wrong and there is some chart showing it maxes out PCI 3.0 x8?


The one thing is, ya spend a good bit of money for a board with the 2nd x16 slot whether via PLX or LGA 2011.....seems a shame not to us it.....prolly the main advantage of LGA 2011 to most is the extra x16 slots


----------



## Deano12345

Just running some tubing idea's through my head before its all installed tomorrow, just wondering, is it possible to run the tubing between the back of the motherboard tray and the side panel ? Case is an 800D and using Primochill LRT.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Just running some tubing idea's through my head before its all installed tomorrow, just wondering, is it possible to run the tubing between the back of the motherboard tray and the side panel ? Case is an 800D and using Primochill LRT.


As long as it is enough space for the tubing it wont be a problem have done it with both a cm cosmos 2 and my enthoo primo (sort of, the tubing and fittings are fastened on a passthrough on the psu compartment)


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> As long as it is enough space for the tubing it wont be a problem have done it with both a cm cosmos 2 and my enthoo primo (sort of, the tubing and fittings are fastened on a passthrough on the psu compartment)


Sweet ! I should have enough room, im off to google to see if anyone else has done it


----------



## nepToon

Calling it a day, still not complete with the loop yet. Check out all the EK goodness =)
Too bad the EK sticker on the monarch block got damaged while removing, that thing was superglued to that block t.t.
Is there a way to get a new one? I dont think you can buy them :/


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Just running some tubing idea's through my head before its all installed tomorrow, just wondering, is it possible to run the tubing between the back of the motherboard tray and the side panel ? Case is an 800D and using Primochill LRT.


As stated above as long as the tubing clears the case it will work. I do it also


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Calling it a day, still not complete with the loop yet. Check out all the EK goodness =)
> Too bad the EK sticker on the monarch block got damaged while removing, that thing was superglued to that block t.t.
> Is there a way to get a new one? I dont think you can buy them :/


awe pretty


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Calling it a day, still not complete with the loop yet. Check out all the EK goodness =)
> Too bad the EK sticker on the monarch block got damaged while removing, that thing was superglued to that block t.t.
> Is there a way to get a new one? I dont think you can buy them :/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Check out this link for replacement badges.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18967/ex-blc-1420/EK_Logo_Aluminum_Badges_-_Silver_5_Pack_EK-Badge_5_pcs.html?tl=g57c593s1950&id=JyaMnzVY&mv_pc=3298


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I heard the plexi varient would be in assembly soon so I would imagine there'd be some on their way to PPCs and Frozen. Only takes 1-3 days for shipping.


I wonder if it would have made a difference if I ordered my R4BE nickel+plexi board blocks from PPCs or Frozen instead of EK directly. Hopefully whatever answer you get back from them will explain the website error I pointed out to you, and my order status. My build is literally on hold right now because I need those blocks on my board to establish the acrylic bends for my loop.

Not that I'm bitter or jaded. It's just amusing to go on their website and see the stocking status change from "no stock" to "limited stock on hand" almost daily for an item that is suppose to have been unavailable for a few weeks now.


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Check out this link for replacement badges.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18967/ex-blc-1420/EK_Logo_Aluminum_Badges_-_Silver_5_Pack_EK-Badge_5_pcs.html?tl=g57c593s1950&id=JyaMnzVY&mv_pc=3298


thanks + rep
I will look around and hope any shops in EU have these.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> thanks + rep
> I will look around and hope any shops in EU have these.


No problem, since your in Switzerland, you might drop an email to EK and see about getting them direct. Just a thought.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> thanks + rep
> I will look around and hope any shops in EU have these.


I believe EK does








http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-badge-5-pcs.html


----------



## Egami

I'm still 366 posts behind in this thread but skipping ahead to thank you guys for featuring my build on your facebook front page!* Just discovered it and going through the comments now. I have to say, there sure are some fascinating people out there!









*...and causing dropbox to suspend my public links "for generating excessive traffic", but that's just awesome and I'm working on fixing that asap.


----------



## natsu2014

I'm probably overreacting but should the highlighted part of the block "filled" with fluid? I have not seen anything like this on the pics and I'd rather ask now


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> I'm probably overreacting but should the highlighted part of the block "filled" with fluid? I have not seen anything like this on the pics and I'd rather ask now


Possible air bubble maybe.Cant see it that clearly.


----------



## kcuestag

Got my R9 290's under water, this is how it looks right now!





Thanks EK for the fast replacement shipping on the plexi top of the 2nd GPU block and for being so helpful!


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> I'm probably overreacting but should the highlighted part of the block "filled" with fluid? I have not seen anything like this on the pics and I'd rather ask now


Yes, iám sure this is an air bubble !
Case upside down a little bit shaking then hopefully it goes out.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Got my R9 290's under water, this is how it looks right now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks EK for the fast replacement shipping on the plexi top of the 2nd GPU block and for being so helpful!


I like it how it looks, but two think i wonder, why no Quad Channel and why no cabelmanagment on the white PCIE cables on the graphics cards ?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> I like it how it looks, but two think i wonder, why no Quad Channel and why no cabelmanagment on the white PCIE cables on the graphics cards ?


No Quad Channel mainly because I had 8GB before upgrading from 2600k to 3930k platform and I don't feel the need, already tried Quad Channel and it was pretty useless.

As for white cables, they seem fine to me?


----------



## X-oiL

Finally got build "Överdriven" on it's way! Containing lots of stuff from EK, all I need is the backplates to arrive







Check out my build log here if it looks interesting











*Liquid Cooling Components*

EKWB R9-290X Acetal x2
EKWB R9-290X Backplate x2
EKWB Terminal DUAL Serial 3-Slot
EKWB Supremacy Clean CSQ Acetal
EKWB Supremacy PreciseMount Add-on Naked Ivy
EKWB DDC 3.2 PWM X-RES 140
EKWB UNI Holder D5
EKWB UNI Holder DDC ADD-ON
EKWB DDC Heatsink Housing Black
EKWB Tube ZMT Matte Black 16/10mm


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> I like it how it looks, but two think i wonder, why no Quad Channel and why no cabelmanagment on the white PCIE cables on the graphics cards ?
> 
> 
> 
> No Quad Channel mainly because I had 8GB before upgrading from 2600k to 3930k platform and I don't feel the need, already tried Quad Channel and it was pretty useless.
> 
> As for white cables, they seem fine to me?
Click to expand...

It must get exhausting that people always ask you about your memory eh?


----------



## marc0053

Anyone know where to find an "in stock" EK gtx 780 classified waterblock these days in US or Canada?
I would buy used if I could find one


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> It must get exhausting that people always ask you about your memory eh?


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Got my R9 290's under water, this is how it looks right now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks EK for the fast replacement shipping on the plexi top of the 2nd GPU block and for being so helpful!


Looks sweet







which link is that ?

So I could use the link for 3 cards on two and when I get a third card I can just add it to the link?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Looks sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which link is that ?
> 
> So I could use the link for 3 cards on two and when I get a third card I can just add it to the link?


It's the Triple Serial - 3 Slot bridge. You need to buy a FC Terminal Blank to cover the middle slot while you aren't using it.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> It's the Triple Serial - 3 Slot bridge. You need to buy a FC Terminal Blank to cover the middle slot while you aren't using it.


thanks kcuestag









Nice to know I'm not forced to buy a DUAL link and I can get the TRIPLE and manage to use it untill a card fills that slot


----------



## MedRed

This is my current rig. I built it in 2010. I'm currently devising its replacement.


----------



## seross69

I have a RIVE with titans in slots 1 and 4 can anyone tell me what bridge I would need to connect my Blocks. Right now I am using tubing but thinking about getting a block but don't know if a 3 or a 4 would work better??

I have this block on my cards EK-FC -TITAN-CP


----------



## Johri

Got everything assembled over the weekend, bought a second-hand pump from a "trusted" seller on a Dutch tech site but it appears to be DOA







now I sit here waiting for the new one to arrive... Hope it comes in tomorrow so I can finish the damn thing!

Oh well, at least I have plenty of time to study for my exams now.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> This is my current rig. I built it in 2010. I'm currently devising its replacement.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I hope to see a build log for your next work.. I like what you have going on in your current build.


----------



## natsu2014

Almost all EK now


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> I hope to see a build log for your next work.. I like what you have going on in your current build.


Thank you. I surely will. I think I have most of what I need accounted for. Still trying to work out a few puzzles before starting the build.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Almost all EK now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just curious, why did you use a 480mm rad instead of a 3x180 (540) rad? Fits perfectly in both Raven 2 (I had it, check my computer's profile pictures) and your Fortress FT02, and you can use the default AP-181 fans which are perfect for radiators.


----------



## natsu2014

It's 560


----------



## Jimhans1

Hey EK folks, are there plans to make a block for the ASUS MARS 760??? Just curious, thinking about 1 for a mITX system.


----------



## Aeleus

Had a nice shoot for my system over the weekend. Got some really good pictures. Really thought they showcased how sexy EK parts can look.









The rest pictures can be seen in my build log, or the link to the album is


http://imgur.com/a


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hey EK folks, are there plans to make a block for the ASUS MARS 760??? Just curious, thinking about 1 for a mITX system.


Eh it's a possibility but if it does happen it won't be for quite a while.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aeleus*
> 
> Had a nice shoot for my system over the weekend. Got some really good pictures. Really thought they showcased how sexy EK parts can look.
> 
> The rest pictures can be seen in my build log, or the link to the album is
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a


Nice shots!


----------



## skupples

@derickwm Maybe you can help me out, and possibly expedite this process, as i'm now almost 6 weeks into this RMA ordeal. I hate to sound like a cry baby but... I received my RMA today. The package is all wrong. Sajn had agreed to send me back Copper blocks as the replacement (as documented in the RMA form, & support ticket), but everything is nickel. They also told me that new O-rings would be supplied, but those didn't seem to make it into the box either. I know this doesn't sound like that big of a deal, but this is after a 6 weeks of back & forth. The original RMA ticket was filed on December 8th. Sajn reported the package had finally shipped on December 27th, this original package has yet to materialize. They sent out a second package on January 14th, which arrived today.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Got my R9 290's under water, this is how it looks right now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks EK for the fast replacement shipping on the plexi top of the 2nd GPU block and for being so helpful!


Nice. What is your temp on 290's when gaming?


----------



## derickwm

For those wondering about the EK 780 Classy Rev 2 backplate, it's done now. @geggeg

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @derickwm Maybe you can help me out, and possibly expedite this process, as i'm now almost 6 weeks into this RMA ordeal. I hate to sound like a cry baby but... I received my RMA today. The package is all wrong. Sajn had agreed to send me back Copper blocks as the replacement (as documented in the RMA form, & support ticket), but everything is nickel. They also told me that new O-rings would be supplied, but those didn't seem to make it into the box either. I know this doesn't sound like that big of a deal, but this is after a 6 weeks of back & forth. The original RMA ticket was filed on December 8th. Sajn reported the package had finally shipped on December 27th, this original package has yet to materialize. They sent out a second package on January 14th, which arrived today.


Hi Skupples, apologies for the mix up. I ask that you please post any RMA concerns or anything related to support in this thread compared to the Water Cooling Club or especially in the OMPT thread as there's a good chance I won't see it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I hate to sound like a cry baby but... I received my RMA today from EK. The package is all wrong. Sajn had agreed to send me back Copper blocks as the replacement, but everything is nickel. ALL nickel CPU & new nickel plates for my POM tops. They also told me that new O-rings would be supplied, but those didn't seem to make it into the box either. So! After a month long RMA process I have to start all over!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *These blocks are intended for re-sale as I purchased all new blocks 5 weeks ago, as I knew this would take for ever, but I can't sell the new blocks without new O-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


As the blocks are for resale anyway I'm assuming you just want new o-rings at this point? Since the Nickel plated ones are worth more you'll be able to make more of your money back. To be clear, I'm not justifying our mistake and I do offer my sincere apologies for not only the mix up but the delay as well. Please create a new support ticket and I will also send Sajn an email detailing the situation, although if you could please PM me your support ticket# that'll make it easier.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Nice. What is your temp on 290's when gaming?


Pretty much the same as my old 2x 7970's or 2x 680's, anywhere from 40 to 54ºC deppending on the temperature and fan speeds, normally I run them at 800rpm so they hit up to 50-54ºC which is fair considering the fans are running quite low.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hi Skupples, apologies for the mix up. I ask that you please post any RMA concerns or anything related to support in this thread compared to the Water Cooling Club or especially in the OMPT thread as there's a good chance I won't see it.
> 
> As the blocks are for resale anyway I'm assuming you just want new o-rings at this point? Since the Nickel plated ones are worth more you'll be able to make more of your money back. To be clear, I'm not justifying our mistake and I do offer my sincere apologies for not only the mix up but the delay as well. Please create a new support ticket and I will also send Sajn an email detailing the situation, although if you could please PM me your support ticket# that'll make it easier.


this is correct. I have thrown in the towel of defeat after almost 7 weeks of waiting. all I want @ this point are the o-rings so that I can finally get my money back. I originally had no intention of actually taking this up with you until multiple people told me I should after venting in said threads.

Thank you for what ever help you can bring me.


----------



## derickwm

Well venting into threads where support can't be provided doesn't really do either party any good. Reasons like this are exactly why I have a job, I'm here to help the masses and provide personalized support. PM me your RMA/Support # and I'll email Sajn.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Pretty much the same as my old 2x 7970's or 2x 680's, anywhere from 40 to 54ºC deppending on the temperature and fan speeds, normally I run them at 800rpm so they hit up to 50-54ºC which is fair considering the fans are running quite low.


My last GPU is 5870. 5870 running cool underwater with EK water block. 290 pretty much 10C higher on the core (in BF4). I usually running fans @1100 - 1200 RPM.

How about VRM1? Any improvement compare to stock cooler? Do you use Fujipoly thermal pads?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> My last GPU is 5870. 5870 running cool underwater with EK water block. 290 pretty much 10C higher on the core (in BF4). I usually running fans @1100 - 1200 RPM.
> 
> How about VRM1? Any improvement compare to stock cooler? Do you use Fujipoly thermal pads?


VRM1 is well below 55ºC at all times, I'm using the stock pads from the EK waterblock.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Well venting into threads where support can't be provided doesn't really do either party any good. Reasons like this are exactly why I have a job, I'm here to help the masses and provide personalized support. PM me your RMA/Support # and I'll email Sajn.


Will do so tonight, after work. I'm truly curious of the first package ever axtually made its way to the post office or was looked over sue to holiday madness.


----------



## Luiyt

Any word on whether the block for the 290x Lightning will have a new backplate to go along with it? I know it comes with a backplate but those blue power phase LEDs really clash with my system so a backplate from EK to cover the LEDs would be great.


----------



## Malik

New friend for my Asus M6I


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> I'm probably overreacting but should the highlighted part of the block "filled" with fluid? I have not seen anything like this on the pics and I'd rather ask now


Looks just like mine .... kinda like a big C rotated 90 degrees CCW has no fluid.


----------



## Deano12345

All set up







Took a few days extra since I was busy with work, anyway, quick pic since my main cameras are outta battery and I'm really tired, will have some nice shots on Sunday I'd say ! (since thats my next day off







)



Thanks for all the help guys


----------



## iamkraine

I just got an ek waterblock for my gtx 780 but the FC bridge that comes with the block did not include the 25mm screw. I don't know why the screw was not in the box but it is very frustrating. Anyone else have a problem like this?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I just got an ek waterblock for my gtx 780 but the FC bridge that comes with the block did not include the 25mm screw. I don't know why the screw was not in the box but it is very frustrating. Anyone else have a problem like this?


I've not had an EK product show up missing parts honestly, but I know almost any decent hardware store will have it in stock. Or look at www.mcmaster.com


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I've not had an EK product show up missing parts honestly, but I know almost any decent hardware store will have it in stock. Or look at www.mcmaster.com


Just checked. Not too sure which one to get so that it's compatible with the block. Plus I'd have to order like 25 cause they come in a package and that's like $10 plus shipping. I shouldn't have to spend extra on stuff that's suppose to be included. I even sent an email to ek but havent heard back from them. Anyone know of any other way to contact them?
I mean I know it's just a screw but common.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Just checked. Not too sure which one to get so that it's compatible with the block. Plus I'd have to order like 25 cause they come in a package and that's like $10 plus shipping. I shouldn't have to spend extra on stuff that's suppose to be included. I even sent an email to ek but havent heard back from them. Anyone know of any other way to contact them?
> I mean I know it's just a screw but common.


The instructions will have the exact size listed, and if you send a PM to @derickwm he can help u out.


----------



## derickwm

What screw are we talking about...


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Just checked. Not too sure which one to get so that it's compatible with the block. Plus I'd have to order like 25 cause they come in a package and that's like $10 plus shipping. I shouldn't have to spend extra on stuff that's suppose to be included. I even sent an email to ek but havent heard back from them. Anyone know of any other way to contact them?
> I mean I know it's just a screw but common.
> 
> 
> 
> The instructions will have the exact size listed, and if you send a PM to @derickwm he can help u out.
Click to expand...

I have had screws show up without threads...but no "missing" parts. I went to ACE Hardware..."If its a screw, we got it"


----------



## Jimhans1

@derickwm

I think it's the M4x25 DIN 7984 screw that you use to hold the Bridge to the Card.


----------



## skupples

forum must be derping. every time some one posts here it says they are quoting me in my email.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I've not had an EK product show up missing parts honestly, but I know almost any decent hardware store will have it in stock. Or look at www.mcmaster.com


pretty much every EK rad iv'e ever picked up has only come with 30mm screws, while the contents claim 35 & 30mm /shrug
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I just got an ek waterblock for my gtx 780 but the FC bridge that comes with the block did not include the 25mm screw. I don't know why the screw was not in the box but it is very frustrating. Anyone else have a problem like this?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> @derickwm
> 
> I think it's the M4x25 DIN 7984 screw that you use to hold the Bridge to the Card.


I might be thinking of the wrong part, but normally the bridge (stock adapter that comes with the block) has 3x screws, if you are talking about the sli bridge link, those tend to only come with one or two screws, as I guess they assume you will re-use the ones from the stock link.


----------



## derickwm

Frozen has them

Contact our support and create a new ticket, we'll have one shipped out to you from them if you're US based, if not from us.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Derick, would you happen to have a ballpark timeframe for the Dual D5 Clean X-Top that I remember being mentioned a while ago?


----------



## p33k

I just got an ek d5 tube reservoir combo. I put a 250 tube on it with the x3 top and inner tube. I am having the water return in the top using the inner tube. When I turn off the pump I am getting leak from the top fitting. Tried multiple ones but I must be doing something wrong. Any help?


----------



## Anoxy

Does EK make universal solutions for RAM blocks? Like I know Bitspower makes universal covers for your RAM and then has a corresponding block to attach, but I prefer EK.


----------



## wermad




----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Does EK make universal solutions for RAM blocks? Like I know Bitspower makes universal covers for your RAM and then has a corresponding block to attach, but I prefer EK.


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17755/ex-blc-1337/EK_RAM_Monarch_DIMM_Module_-_2_Pack_-_Black_EK-RAM_Monarch_Module_-_Black_2pcs.html?tl=g30c225s557










Jeffinslaw


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Does EK make universal solutions for RAM blocks? Like I know Bitspower makes universal covers for your RAM and then has a corresponding block to attach, but I prefer EK.


EK Ram blocks are made for Corsair Dominators. But they also make THESE that you replace your rams heatsink with so the blocks fit any other ram


----------



## Anoxy

Killer, thanks guys.


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Killer, thanks guys.


see this link if you want to see how to install it on your ram. it is a small how to on installing the heat sinks to the ram.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Does EK make universal solutions for RAM blocks? Like I know Bitspower makes universal covers for your RAM and then has a corresponding block to attach, but I prefer EK.


These blocks have the same specs (dominator). I'm running Bitspower plates on my vengeance ram with ek ramblocks. So you can use other blocks and or plates (as long as the screws reach).


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Are the old EK backplates anodized? I'm talking about the pre-CSQ 7970 backplate specifically. The one I picked up has a few scratches on it so I was going to remove the anodizing, sand it, and then have it bead blasted and then re-anodized in black.

Thanks! Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

I think so


----------



## ProfeZZor X

If you're gonna go black, then you gotta go all the way:

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1921.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1922.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1925.jpg.html

Just had these blocks delivered today, and already took them apart to add an ultra thin layer of matte black vinyl. It was actually a lot easier to do than I thought. No bubbling, creases, or other problems. I'll run some leak/heat/cold tests tomorrow. I should also mention that only the surface area that you see in these pictures is covered in vinyl, not the entire block. I'll do the north bridge tomorrow.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> If you're gonna go black, then you gotta go all the way:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1921.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1922.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1925.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> Just had these blocks delivered today, and already took them apart to add an ultra thin layer of matte black vinyl. It was actually a lot easier to do than I thought. No bubbling, creases, or other problems. I'll run some leak tests tomorrow.


great Idea *are you looking EK??????????????*


----------



## lowfat

Very unique.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very unique.


30-40 minutes tops. The vinyl was so thin and pliable it was a lot easier to cut through than a hot knife cutting through butter. Besides the leak test, I'll run some hot and cold tests for vinyl shrinkage.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> I just got an ek d5 tube reservoir combo. I put a 250 tube on it with the x3 top and inner tube. I am having the water return in the top using the inner tube. When I turn off the pump I am getting leak from the top fitting. Tried multiple ones but I must be doing something wrong. Any help?


Which brand and model of fitting are you using at the top?

You did read the manual which says _*"Port on reservoir's top part is not intended to be used as inlet port. The aforementioned port should should only be used for connecting this reservoir with external fill port!"*_


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Which brand and model of fitting are you using at the top?
> 
> You did read the manual which says _*"Port on reservoir's top part is not intended to be used as inlet port. The aforementioned port should should only be used for connecting this reservoir with external fill port!"*_


Yes I have read that but I have seen other people on here use the multiport top as in an intake. I got it working... dumb *** me, originally was going to use the intended in port on the bottom and had the extender installed down there and just capped the extender. Once I put the extender on the top the leaking stop. Thanks for the reply!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Yes I have read that but I have seen other people on here use the multiport top as in an intake. I got it working... dumb *** me, originally was going to use the intended in port on the bottom and had the extender installed down there and just capped the extender. Once I put the extender on the top the leaking stop. Thanks for the reply!


Yep you generally need the extender on the top port, but I discovered that Monsoon 90 degree rotary is narrow enough to fit in there without needing the extender.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> If you're gonna go black, then you gotta go all the way:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just had these blocks delivered today, and already took them apart to add an ultra thin layer of matte black vinyl. It was actually a lot easier to do than I thought. No bubbling, creases, or other problems. I'll run some leak/heat/cold tests tomorrow. I should also mention that only the surface area that you see in these pictures is covered in vinyl, not the entire block. I'll do the north bridge tomorrow.


Dude, that looks freakin SICK!! Great idea. Now you have me wanting to do that with my Clean CSQ R4BE & Supremacy Blocks, except with White


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Dude, that looks freakin SICK!! Great idea. Now you have me wanting to do that with my Clean CSQ R4BE & Supremacy Blocks, except with White


You know those kiosks in the mall that sells customized window stickers for your car and embroidered hats? ...I went to one of them to get the vinyl after not having any luck at the local art stores. The guy just happened to have a letter sized piece of matte black left, so I convinced him to sell it to me. It should be enough for me to do the north bridge, and my Titan blocks. Although for now, I'll just do one of them. I look forward to leak testing it tomorrow.


----------



## kpoeticg

I was actually thinking more along the lines of something like 3M DiNOC. I'm guessing the stuff you got is alot thinner than that?


----------



## nepToon

It's not yet fully completed but its up and running.
Still todo: replace soft tube with rigid acrylic tube, sleeve bottom fan, add EK Sticker to RAM block.

Specs:
Arc Mini r2
Asus ROG Z87 Gene
i5-4670K @ 4.5 Ghz
4x4Gb Corsair Dominator GT 2133Mhz
Club 3D 13"Series 7970
Corsair AX760

Cooling:
EKWB Supremacy clear
EKWB M6G Mosfet
EKWB Monarch CSQ polished
Watercool Heatkiller 79x0 black nickel
XSPC EX 360 x-flow, EX240
Laing DDC with EKWB DDC X-res 140
EKWB HDTube 12/16, HD Thread adapters black
6x Scythe Gentle Typhoons AP15


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I was actually thinking more along the lines of something like 3M DiNOC. I'm guessing the stuff you got is alot thinner than that?


I can say that there's almost no thickness to this vinyl, and the material is very pliable. Even while holding the small pieces I used for my blocks, it almost feels like there's nothing in your hands. Here's both blocks completed. I'm extremely happy with the way they came out. If anything, I'm surprised EK didn't come up with this idea, aside from the acetal blocks they carry.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1936.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1937.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1935.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1940.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1941.jpg.html


----------



## lowfat

Just my opinion but I think if you pulled the blocks apart again and wet sanded w/ 2000 grit and then applied a good plastic polish (Meguiar's PlastX). Even clear acrylic can benefit from a good polish IMO. It would make the black stand out more.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Just my opinion but I think if you pulled the blocks apart again and wet sanded w/ 2000 grit and then applied a good plastic polish (Meguiar's PlastX). Even clear acrylic can benefit from a good polish IMO. It would make the black stand out more.


I agree on it standing out more if the acrylic was more polished. And I'd like to do it, if 2000 grit sandpaper wasn't so hard to find. I tried looking for it at Home Depot last week and the finest grit they had was 660. Guess I'll have to dig deeper.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I agree on it standing out more if the acrylic was more polished. And I'd like to do it, if 2000 grit sandpaper wasn't so hard to find. I tried looking for it at Home Depot last week and the finest grit they had was 660. Guess I'll have to dig deeper.


Look at automotive parts stores. They should definitely have up to 2000 grit. They will also have a plastic polish.


----------



## Malik

Still waiting for some parts... so few photos


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Look at automotive parts stores. They should definitely have up to 2000 grit. They will also have a plastic polish.


First place I checked (Pep Boys) had the polishing materials you suggested, so I got to work on them and they look so much better than before. I'll just post pictures when I install them on the motherboard.


----------



## AlDyer

EK <3 always good price and always works


----------



## freefall

First post in the EK club!

Just felt that when I finally got the impact fullcover block mounted, it warranted a post! Works great with the 780 fullcover block in the prodigy













Temps are nice, flow is good and it looks great!









Keep up the awesome work EK!


----------



## rickyman0319

does EK universal GPU waterblock work with XFX 7750 video card?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> does EK universal GPU waterblock work with XFX 7750 video card?


If the mounting holes are between 53-58mm spacing and in a square pattern, then it should fit. But there might be items mounted on the PCB that would also interfere with the proper fit. Sorry I can't give you an exact answer though.


----------



## skupples

Update: EK will be shipping out the O-rings tomorrow, they offered to swap out the blocks, but i'm just going to stick with the nickel since I won't be using them my self.

Thx for the help Derick!


----------



## SeeThruHead

Partially finished my build.


----------



## nepToon

Niced work seethru, I just love the painted motherboard!


----------



## derickwm

Nice shots, can't wait to see the build come together


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freefall*
> 
> First post in the EK club!
> 
> Just felt that when I finally got the impact fullcover block mounted, it warranted a post! Works great with the 780 fullcover block in the prodigy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are nice, flow is good and it looks great!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep up the awesome work EK!


Sweet, another EK/Prodigy water build. Here's what I have running now, just tested it and set it up 2 days ago.



I'm gonna re-install the video card, though. I might have made a rookie mistake in tightening the block too close to the metal contacts of the board, because the graphics card is not being detected







Hope I can get this working today.


----------



## strong island 1

posted this in the watercooling thread but I forgot all the blocks are ek. Might as well post here also. I love my ek blocks and I think I am an ek customer for life. There blocks are very classy looking. I also like that there is no big words on them or huge stickers. That is really important to me. The ek symbol is very subtle.


----------



## seross69

@derickwm is it possible to buy a couple of black bottoms for the EK-RES X3 ???


----------



## kpoeticg

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36602

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36601


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36602
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36601


those are tops and I asked about a bottom!!!!!!

I know it might be possible to use these but I want a bottom! They are different!


----------



## derickwm

Hmm strange. I figured FrozenCPU at least would have them. I would contact our support, http://www.ekwb.com/support/. They should be able to get you something. I wonder why our retailers don't carry bottom replacements, I'll check into that as well.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hmm strange. I figured FrozenCPU at least would have them. I would contact our support, http://www.ekwb.com/support/. They _should _be able to get you something. I wonder why our retailers don't carry bottom replacements, I'll check into that as well.


they do but all the ones I can find are white!!! and Thanks for the infotrmation and any help you can give me!!!!!

Funny thing is I did not even see them on the EK web store site..


----------



## kpoeticg

Sorry, i never owned an EK X3. I assumed the tops and bottoms were interchangeable. Especially since they sell the single port cap as a bottom.


----------



## BradleyW

WC loop (All EK blocks/Pump)


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Sorry, i never owned an EK X3. I assumed the tops and bottoms were interchangeable. Especially since they sell the single port cap as a bottom.


They are interchangeable, but I wouldn't use the single port cap for anything other than fill or drain port. Having said that, Snef did use it as a direct pump feed.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Sorry, i never owned an EK X3. I assumed the tops and bottoms were interchangeable. Especially since they sell the single port cap as a bottom.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> They are interchangeable, but I wouldn't use the single port cap for anything other than fill or drain port. Having said that, Snef did use it as a direct pump feed.


yes they are interchangeable like wisk said but the issue is I want a bottom. they are ported and made different. I know if all else fails I can put a multiport top on the bottom and should have not issues.

but I WANT 3 to4 actual bottom's in black!!!!


----------



## 7ha7a5ian

Does anyone know of a waterblock for the asus sabertooth z77 mobo?


----------



## wermad

http://coolingconfigurator.com/

edit: unfortunately, don't look like it


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7ha7a5ian*
> 
> Does anyone know of a waterblock for the asus sabertooth z77 mobo?


I've not seen a full board block for one, but you could probably get some insight from www.koolance.com as to blocks for the VRM's and mosfets probably. Just a thought.


----------



## 7ha7a5ian

Sad day for this Asian. Might have to make plans for future build.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> yes they are interchangeable like wisk said but the issue is I want a bottom. they are ported and made different. I know if all else fails I can put a multiport top on the bottom and should have not issues.
> 
> but I WANT 3 to4 actual bottom's in black!!!!


I understand. By interchangeable i meant i thought they were the same. I didn't know the multiport top was different than the bottom. =)

I should've figured that you already checked PPC yourself before posting









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7ha7a5ian*
> 
> Sad day for this Asian. Might have to make plans for future build.


Sounds like a happy day then!!!









I guarantee you can find a VRM/Mosfet Block that'll fit your mobo just fine, and watercooling PCH's is really just for aesthetics anyway. Please don't upgrade your motherboard just because you think it's not being cooled enough on air. There's plenty of universal mosfet/vrm blocks on watercooling sites, just need to do a little research to find out which will be best for you









@BradleyW build looks great man. Nice pics

I gotta admit that seeing those Noctua colors in nice WC builds makes me a little









But that's just personal opinion, and everybody's got their own tastes. Love the sek-see blocks tho!!!


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I've not seen a full board block for one, but you could probably get some insight from www.koolance.com as to blocks for the VRM's and mosfets probably. Just a thought.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7ha7a5ian*
> 
> Sad day for this Asian. Might have to make plans for future build.


I know this the EK club, but..

Watercool makes a Heatkiller block for the Sabertooth Z77. Not much of a looker, and doubtful if you can use it with the thermal armor without modding it.

Nickel: http://shop.watercool.de/HEATKILLER-MB-SET-ASUS-SABERTOOTH-Z77-Ni/en

Copper: http://shop.watercool.de/HEATKILLER-MB-SET-ASUS-SABERTOOTH-Z77/en


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> I know this the EK club, but..
> 
> Watercool makes a Heatkiller block for the Sabertooth Z77. Not much of a looker, and doubtful if you can use it with the thermal armor without modding it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Nickel: http://shop.watercool.de/HEATKILLER-MB-SET-ASUS-SABERTOOTH-Z77-Ni/en
> 
> Copper: http://shop.watercool.de/HEATKILLER-MB-SET-ASUS-SABERTOOTH-Z77/en


Not often I say this about Heatkiller stuff, but those things need a paint job bad!


----------



## Roxycon

@BradleyW fasten your front rad dude


----------



## Aesthethc

I might get a 780 classified water block from EK but i am hearing that i will not be able to use the EVGA backplate with the waterblock? Would i have to buy the EK backplate in order to use a backplate???


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aesthethc*
> 
> I might get a 780 classified water block from EK but i am hearing that i will not be able to use the EVGA backplate with the waterblock? Would i have to buy the EK backplate in order to use a backplate???


Double check the Classified owners forum, I thought folks in there said that you can use the factory back plate with them.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1411500/official-evga-classified-owners-club


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36602
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36601
> 
> 
> 
> those are tops and I asked about a bottom!!!!!!
> 
> I know it might be possible to use these but I want a bottom! They are different!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hmm strange. I figured FrozenCPU at least would have them. I would contact our support, http://www.ekwb.com/support/. They _should _be able to get you something. I wonder why our retailers don't carry bottom replacements, I'll check into that as well.
> 
> 
> 
> they do but all the ones I can find are white!!! and Thanks for the infotrmation and any help you can give me!!!!!
> 
> Funny thing is I did not even see them on the EK web store site..
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Sorry, i never owned an EK X3. I assumed the tops and bottoms were interchangeable. Especially since they sell the single port cap as a bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> They are interchangeable, but I wouldn't use the single port cap for anything other than fill or drain port. Having said that, Snef did use it as a direct pump feed.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> yes they are interchangeable like wisk said but the issue is I want a bottom. they are ported and made different. I know if all else fails I can put a multiport top on the bottom and should have not issues.
> 
> but I WANT 3 to4 actual bottom's in black!!!!
Click to expand...

So much enthusiasm with all of those !!!!!!!!!!!!exclamation!!!!!!!!!marks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Must be that *EXCESSIVE INSANITY!!!*


----------



## Kimir

Quick question for those who already bought directly at the EK e-shop, how long does the "_Processing_" state lasts?
I kinda feel like I should have bought what was available at my usual retailer instead of EK...


----------



## PCModderMike

I bought a backplate for my 690 from their site January 26th, it's scheduled for delivery tomorrow, the 29th.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Quick question for those who already bought directly at the EK e-shop, how long does the "_Processing_" state lasts?
> I kinda feel like I should have bought what was available at my usual retailer instead of EK...


Well, if you bought something that is in high demand at the moment, processing could take up to 7 days for some items listed on the site. Patience grasshopper.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aesthethc*
> 
> I might get a 780 classified water block from EK but i am hearing that i will not be able to use the EVGA backplate with the waterblock? Would i have to buy the EK backplate in order to use a backplate???


You just need longer screws. I have done it with a 680 and I needed m3x6 instead of the included m3x4. Some people also had luck with m3x8. It depends on the head of the screw you choose and how they fit into the holes on the backplate. I really do love the ek backplates though. They are very sleek and clean looking.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> @BradleyW fasten your front rad dude


When I had my Elysium, I bought these to hold my Monsta 360 in place:
Quote:


>


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_335_987&products_id=26190


----------



## derickwm

Depends on product availability and how many orders we have at any given time. Our webshop orders are packed by two guys so it can vary.

On the topic of webshop orders, I just placed a big one


----------



## Kimir

@Jimhans1 and derickwm, ok thanks for the answers, I might just cancel the current pending order and get only what is only available at the EK e-shop in a new order.
And then get what I need the most of my retailer (who's freaking fast and have the 780 classy block I need the most in stock).

@derickwm, to cancel the order, should I send an e-mail to [email protected] or can I do it with you?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> @Jimhans1 and derickwm, ok thanks for the answers, I might just cancel the current pending order and get only what is only available at the EK e-shop in a new order.
> And then get what I need the most of my retailer (who's freaking fast and have the 780 classy block I need the most in stock).
> 
> @derickwm, to cancel the order, should I send an e-mail to [email protected] or can I do it with you?


Just for the record, I didn't say to cancel the order! I said be patient.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Just for the record, I didn't say to cancel the order! I said be patient.


I understand that.








But if I want to get what I need the most faster, I could cancel, right?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I understand that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if I want to get what I need the most faster, I could cancel, right?


I guess so. Some places have a cancellation fee unless there are items on backorder though. I would log into your EK account and contact them there first though. Just my .02c


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I guess so. Some places have a cancellation fee unless there are items on backorder though. I would log into your EK account and contact them there first though. Just my .02c


That's what I will do, there is no cancel button on the EK account so, I'll email them and see that with them, unless derickwm who's EKWB Forum Support can inform me.


----------



## derickwm

Nah you'd be better off just contacting them. If I did it they'd probably just tell me to tell you to do it.


----------



## Kimir

Okey, will do, thanks.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Did my full install yesterday. The acrylic connections I wanted to do didn't turn out how I wanted them to, so I need to order some extensions to level a few connectors out for an alternative route.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

My Aztec Dark Knight is finally completed, featuring:

EK Supremacy Elite Nickel CPU block.
EK Rampage 4 Black Edition Full Motherboard blocks
EK FC TITAN GPU blocks x2
EK Backplates x2
EK Clear Coolant


----------



## Aesthethc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> You just need longer screws. I have done it with a 680 and I needed m3x6 instead of the included m3x4. Some people also had luck with m3x8. It depends on the head of the screw you choose and how they fit into the holes on the backplate. I really do love the ek backplates though. They are very sleek and clean looking.


Thanks for the reply strong island i appreciate it a lot









Okay so i can goto my home depot and get the M3 screws there? are they common? and the difference between M3x4 and M3x6 or M3x8 is like the amount of threads right? the 6 and 8 are longer than the 4 just the same screw size? Am i understanding this correctly?

Also, will this affect the look if i try to use longer screws? Would there be like screws sticking out on the top or something? Sorry, could you explain why the longer screws allowed for the EVGA backplate to be used? is because i think theyre on standoffs? so that doesnt allow the waterblocks to be secured properly?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aesthethc*
> 
> Thanks for the reply strong island i appreciate it a lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay so i can goto my home depot and get the M3 screws there? are they common? and the difference between M3x4 and M3x6 or M3x8 is like the amount of threads right? the 6 and 8 are longer than the 4 just the same screw size? Am i understanding this correctly?
> 
> Also, will this affect the look if i try to use longer screws? Would there be like screws sticking out on the top or something? Sorry, could you explain why the longer screws allowed for the EVGA backplate to be used? is because i think theyre on standoffs? so that doesnt allow the waterblocks to be secured properly?


@Aesthethc the 4, 6, and 8 are referring to the screws length in millimeters. But remember,



Screw C in the picture, the head counts in the length,

Screws D, E, and bolt F, ONLY the threads count in the length, the head does not.

The longer screws are needed because the backplate is either thicker or has longer standoffs, so you need longer screw to reach the threads in the blocks......


----------



## Kimir

Oh well, my classy blocks were shipped yesterday!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aesthethc*
> 
> Okay so i can goto my home depot and get the M3 screws there? are they common? and the difference between M3x4 and M3x6 or M3x8 is like the amount of threads right? the 6 and 8 are longer than the 4 just the same screw size? Am i understanding this correctly?


Got mine "down the block" at local hardware store..... Ace hardware has wide election and more knowledgeable staff than Home Depot which is more oriented towards construction..... bring in ya screw and say "I want this but longer".


----------



## gdubc

Yep. Ace is great to just browse that whole section of screws, etc. Lots of useful stuff like grommets, clamps for cable management, etc. Plenty of other stuff like acrylic and metal sheets also. It's a modders buffet!


----------



## wermad

mcmastercarr.com









They will guide you step by step to find your screws. You don't have to buy it from them use this guided search feature









Homes have poor selection on metric screws. I go w/ ebay now since I can buy smaller quantities there or go w/ mcmastercarr.com when i need 50 or more.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aesthethc*
> 
> Thanks for the reply strong island i appreciate it a lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay so i can goto my home depot and get the M3 screws there? are they common? and the difference between M3x4 and M3x6 or M3x8 is like the amount of threads right? the 6 and 8 are longer than the 4 just the same screw size? Am i understanding this correctly?
> 
> Also, will this affect the look if i try to use longer screws? Would there be like screws sticking out on the top or something? Sorry, could you explain why the longer screws allowed for the EVGA backplate to be used? is because i think theyre on standoffs? so that doesnt allow the waterblocks to be secured properly?


These are what you're looking for. Lowes has what you need if you don't want to order online.


----------



## Aesthethc

Oh wow! Thanks for all the replies guys, reps for everyone ^_^

I definitely have a better idea on what it looks like now, and the picture with the classy + EK block really helps give me an idea.









I have my classy coming in and definitely going to try the EVGA backplate with my EK block. Kind of fell in love with the EVGA backplate... (never owned a classy of any card)


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Yep. Ace is great to just browse that whole section of screws, etc. Lots of useful stuff like grommets, clamps for cable management, etc. Plenty of other stuff like acrylic and metal sheets also. It's a modders buffet!


Usually shorter drive than to the big box stores and while I won't say more experienced staff, the Home Deport / Lowes guys are generally building construction oriented and lost on anything else.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aesthethc*
> 
> Oh wow! Thanks for all the replies guys, reps for everyone ^_^
> 
> I definitely have a better idea on what it looks like now, and the picture with the classy + EK block really helps give me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my classy coming in and definitely going to try the EVGA backplate with my EK block. Kind of fell in love with the EVGA backplate... (never owned a classy of any card)


The EVGA backplate + EK block is definitely the way to go. Looks sooooo good. Don't get me wrong on the EK backplate. It's just..different strokes for different folks


----------



## montyman03

Added some new EK gear to the family.


----------



## Aesthethc

Hey guys total noob question here.... i just ordered my EK block for my classy but it said it didnt come with fittings, does that meant it doesnt come with plugs either? should i order some plugs ?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aesthethc*
> 
> Hey guys total noob question here.... i just ordered my EK block for my classy but it said it didnt come with fittings, does that meant it doesnt come with plugs either? should i order some plugs ?


It will come with 2 plugs, but they will be the EK silver colored plugs. If the silver color matches your build, you should be good. I just double checked, none of the blocks I've bought say they come with the plugs, but they all came with plugs!!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aesthethc*
> 
> Hey guys total noob question here.... i just ordered my EK block for my classy but it said it didnt come with fittings, does that meant it doesnt come with plugs either? should i order some plugs ?


All of our FC blocks come with two plugs by default. The fitting warning is just there so people are aware they need to order barbs/fittings/etc.

edit* lol wow completed missed the reply above me. Continue on...


----------



## derickwm

My care package from the motherland is here


----------



## VSG

Did they include a copy of "Watercooling for Noobs"?


----------



## derickwm

I sure hope so, definitely need to brush up on my skills to catch up with you lot :sad-smile


----------



## VSG

We love you no matter what, Derick. Not Tiborr though


----------



## Kimir

EK blocks for the KingPin cards are here, some more to come!




Spoiler: Warning: Images!


----------



## derickwm

Yay


----------



## VSG

So how long before they are up for sale? I wouldn't mind some of those items


----------



## derickwm

Hehe probably not anytime soon!


----------



## Aesthethc

Regarding the thermal pads on the EK blocks, are they sufficient enough for the VRM's for maximum heat transfer (i will be overvolting as much as i can for a 24/7 OC) or would ordering some Fujipoly Extremes http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16878/thr-164/Fujipoly_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_14_Sheet_-_150_x_100_x_05_-_Thermal_Conductivity_110_WmK.html be a better choice for me since i am really overclocking my GPU ?

Or does it not matter?

I also got some M3-0.5 x6 screws at Lowes today! so happy thank you everyone for all the advice







Super excited to get my first EK full cover block!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aesthethc*
> 
> Regarding the thermal pads on the EK blocks, are they sufficient enough for the VRM's for maximum heat transfer (i will be overvolting as much as i can for a 24/7 OC) or would ordering some Fujipoly Extremes http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16878/thr-164/Fujipoly_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_14_Sheet_-_150_x_100_x_05_-_Thermal_Conductivity_110_WmK.html be a better choice for me since i am really overclocking my GPU ?
> 
> Or does it not matter?
> 
> I also got some M3-0.5 x6 screws at Lowes today! so happy thank you everyone for all the advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Super excited to get my first EK full cover block!


If your looking for an extreme OC 24/7, then I would honestly look at the Fuji's. I LOVE EK blocks, but if your looking for OTT OC for long duration, then any extra help will benefit you. VRMs and capacitors are the parts that fail most often in the PC world!!!


----------



## Aesthethc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If your looking for an extreme OC 24/7, then I would honestly look at the Fuji's. I LOVE EK blocks, but if your looking for OTT OC for long duration, then any extra help will benefit you. VRMs and capacitors are the parts that fail most often in the PC world!!!


Yes im actually looking for the highest OC i can get 24/7 probably having the card at 1.3v -- can i go more for 24/7? or is that just for benching? I mean, if my VRM's are cold.... is there a limit? ALSO, do you know the pad thickness ill be needing for the 780 classy block? there are 0.5mm and 1mm thickness i believe....


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

1.3V is under water no problem, it´s all fine, you can use it for 24/7 !


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aesthethc*
> 
> Yes im actually looking for the highest OC i can get 24/7 probably having the card at 1.3v -- can i go more for 24/7? or is that just for benching? I mean, if my VRM's are cold.... is there a limit? ALSO, do you know the pad thickness ill be needing for the 780 classy block? there are 0.5mm and 1mm thickness i believe....


That block uses BOTH 0.5mm and 1mm thermal pads.

Here is the manual that shows where and what thickness to use.

EK Classy Install Manual


----------



## Aesthethc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That block uses BOTH 0.5mm and 1mm thermal pads.
> 
> Here is the manual that shows where and what thickness to use.
> 
> EK Classy Install Manual










Why didnt i look there.... Thanks again man


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aesthethc*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why didnt i look there.... Thanks again man


No prob, that's what we are here for!!


----------



## skupples

btw, anyone know if EK expects me to send back the dead plates now that I have my RMA package? They don't seem to give any information for doing so.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, anyone know if EK expects me to send back the dead plates now that I have my RMA package? They don't seem to give any information for doing so.


Nice pics,









EK didn't ask me for the damaged parts either. I just have them sitting there.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Nice pics,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK didn't ask me for the damaged parts either. I just have them sitting there.


thx

interesting, you would think they would want them back.


----------



## VSG

The cost of shipping is probably not worth the production cost of the plates, given that they can't even resell them as-is.


----------



## skupples

figured they would shell blast the nickel off & replate.


----------



## Malik




----------



## seross69

WOW nice pictures, wish I had your talent!!!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

It'd be interesting if EK (or ASUS) came up with full board armor like that... with interchangeable water cooling blocks you could snap in.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Yes it is, I have my D5 pump res combo installed using an un bracket because it held my pump straight as it distributed the weight evenly compared to just using the supplied bracket which caused the pump to sag.


Would you happen to have a picture of this? I'd like to see how it looks.


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Hey, question. I have an XTX 360 rad, but there's no room in my case to use the two holes on one side.

So this leads me to this, can I set up the input and output diagonally? What I mean is, if I have the input on the left side on the bottom, can I have the output on the right side on top? Or will this not work? This is honestly the only way I can get this rad to work in my case without removing my motherboard's thermal armor.

Unless I can use the port on the end as an input or output....


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiknnwatrmln*
> 
> Hey, question. I have an XTX 360 rad, but there's no room in my case to use the two holes on one side.
> 
> So this leads me to this, can I set up the input and output diagonally? What I mean is, if I have the input on the left side on the bottom, can I have the output on the right side on top? Or will this not work? This is honestly the only way I can get this rad to work in my case without removing my motherboard's thermal armor.
> 
> Unless I can use the port on the end as an input or output....


yes you can... if it has the ports as long as you use one from each side it does not matter.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiknnwatrmln*
> 
> Hey, question. I have an XTX 360 rad, but there's no room in my case to use the two holes on one side.
> 
> So this leads me to this, can I set up the input and output diagonally? What I mean is, if I have the input on the left side on the bottom, can I have the output on the right side on top? Or will this not work? This is honestly the only way I can get this rad to work in my case without removing my motherboard's thermal armor.
> 
> *Unless I can use the port on the end as an input or output..*..


NO, that's only meant to be a drain port. If you use it for flow in the loop, it would cut down the capability and performance of the rad.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> NO, that's only meant to be a drain port. If you use it for flow in the loop, it would cut down the capability and performance of the rad.


oh i thought he was talking about ports like the alphacool has with 3 on each side plus a drain port. I should have looked at the rad before I spoke!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> oh i thought he was talking about ports like the alphacool has with 3 on each side plus a drain port. I should have looked at the rad before I spoke!


It's all good!


----------



## wermad

Rounded up my CSQ Acetal Nickel collection:


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Thanks for the answers guys.

I meant that I wanted to use one port from the top, and one port from the bottom, each on opposite sides.


----------



## WhoKnew22

Hey everyone,

Just attached my D5 X Res Top 140 to a Switch 810 (Hard Drive cage side rail). It concerns me that with the washer the screw doesn't peek out past the nut. Should I get longer M4 screws? Just nervous that filling it with water will make it too heavy and the nut will pop off.

Thanks!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiknnwatrmln*
> 
> Thanks for the answers guys.
> 
> I meant that I wanted to use one port from the top, and one port from the bottom, each on opposite sides.


Just so we are all on the same page, and since I happen to have an XTX here that's not in it's system yet, your referring to using two ports like where my fingers are placed? If you answer yes to that, then the answer to your question is yes!


Sorry for the pic, it's just a fast phone pic.

Edit: It's always hard to talk about rads ie: top, bottom, front, back, since those descriptions technically change depending on the orientation of the rad as installed, front of case, top of case, etc.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiknnwatrmln*
> 
> Thanks for the answers guys.
> 
> I meant that I wanted to use one port from the top, and one port from the bottom, each on opposite sides.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Just so we are all on the same page, and since I happen to have an XTX here that's not in it's system yet, your referring to using two ports like where my fingers are placed? If you answer yes to that, then the answer to your question is yes!
> 
> 
> Sorry for the pic, it's just a fast phone pic.
> 
> Edit: It's always hard to talk about rads ie: top, bottom, front, back, since those descriptions technically change depending on the orientation of the rad as installed, front of case, top of case, etc.


Ok there is a possibility I was right then.. because how your fingers are is how I was answering it...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Ok there is a possibility I was right then.. because how your fingers are is how I was answering it...


That's why in my initial post, I highlighted the question that I was answering for him. You answered his first question in his post, I was answering his second question.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhoKnew22*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> Just attached my D5 X Res Top 140 to a Switch 810 (Hard Drive cage side rail). It concerns me that with the washer the screw doesn't peek out past the nut. Should I get longer M4 screws? Just nervous that filling it with water will make it too heavy and the nut will pop off.
> 
> Thanks!


I would get longer screws if it were mine.


----------



## WhoKnew22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I would get longer screws if it were mine.


Yeah, any idea what length they are? EK just has it as M4, but they look like 5mm and I was going to run to the hardware store and grab some 8mm ones


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhoKnew22*
> 
> Yeah, any idea what length they are? EK just has it as M4, but they look like 5mm and I was going to run to the hardware store and grab some 8mm ones


M4-0.7x8mm should work out perfect!!!
The installation manual for it says the screws it comes with are M4-0.7x6mm, so 8mm should be correct!!!

Edit: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109842799.pdf


----------



## skupples

I'm kinda sad that I had to re-use the crappy sponge like pads for the R4BE Mosftet backplate, but over all i'm happy with the product. It's one thing to make your own 1mm thick pad out of two strips of .5 fuji-poly, but making a 3mm pad is a totally different ball park. hopefully those rear motherboard mosftets don't do allot of work.


----------



## Rollergold

Quick question; I just picked up a Monsoon S2 D5 Bay Res and it has 2 of their Sliver Bullet plugs on the top ports as a limited time offer deal and I will be using EK's Ekoolant blue premix. Now I know it's not a good idea add extra additives to a pre-mixed coolant but would I be able to get away with using the sliver plugs for about a week or so, so that I can order some standard plugs from Dazmode that don't have the sliver.


----------



## WhoKnew22

Thanks, I was reading the wrong manual









Quick update, I ended up going with 10mm screws (they were out of the 8s) and with a Philips head. Attached them with the washer, nut, and also added on a cap nut, this thing is rock solid, definitely not going anywhere!!

Thanks again for the help


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhoKnew22*
> 
> Thanks, I was reading the wrong manual
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick update, I ended up going with 10mm screws (they were out of the 8s) and with a Philips head. Attached them with the washer, nut, and also added on a cap nut, this thing is rock solid, definitely not going anywhere!!
> 
> Thanks again for the help


No problem, glad to help!


----------



## King4x4

I heard you guys liked rads!


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> I heard you guys liked rads!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Haha, hopefully they won't end up leaking after 3 months of use like they did for me


----------



## King4x4

Finally EK!


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Finally EK!


Is that a new release?

I like the 5.25 Dual serial DDC 3.25 bay res, just means i can install another fan controller above the vacant space.

Dual DDC V3.25


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunnzAkimbo*
> 
> Is that a new release?
> 
> I like the 5.25 Dual serial DDC 3.25 bay res, just means i can install another fan controller above the vacant space.
> 
> Dual DDC V3.25


I'm not a fan of that style res (from any makers) for the DDC's, there's no way to channel airflow to the pumps, and the DDCs are known to be hot running, and more failure prone the hotter they get. There is a reason they make heatsinks for them little buggers.


----------



## defiler2k

Here you go

Let me know if you need a better picture.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Would you happen to have a picture of this? I'd like to see how it looks.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> I heard you guys liked rads!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those look rad... nice...


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Here you go
> 
> Let me know if you need a better picture.


Nah, that's perfect. I wanted to see how high it would be when mounted.

Thanks and +1


----------



## skupples

I see that dual DDC being a major issue. I want to know how EK addressed gulping of air/vortexing. My Maelstrom, which has 2x the volume of that res already has vortexing issues @ even 70% pump power. You would need to completely submerse that single slot EK model. That's the only way I see being able to get full power out of both pumps... Though really, only the biggest systems in the world would actually benefit from that much flow.


----------



## WhoKnew22

Pump sag isn't too bad if you get some higher quality, longer screws


----------



## skupples

Received my O-rings in the mail today! This concludes my Business with EK.... this time.









Can finally slap them together & sell them now!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Received my O-rings in the mail today! This concludes my Business with EK.... this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can finally slap them together & sell them now!


They still make some of the best stuff on the market, sorry you had troubles this time.

Edit: and, at least they took care of it. Thats more than I can say about most of the companies!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> They still make some of the best stuff on the market, sorry you had troubles this time.


I have no issues. EK is my favorite for now! Just reporting that my RMA has finally come to an end!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I have no issues. EK is my favorite for now! Just reporting that my RMA has finally come to an end!


Yeah, RMAs suck, no doubt about it, glad it's sorted out.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I have no issues. EK is my favorite for now! Just reporting that my RMA has finally come to an end!


I wish I hadn't gotten my 580 blocks second hand, they are all flaking so bad it's killing me to run them.


----------



## darwing

Hey I'm a part of this club now











Gold Rush - Build Log


----------



## skupples

Welcome!

Those gold knobs are nice!


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Welcome!
> 
> Those gold knobs are nice!


Thank you they are going to look great on that mother board but first I have to delid and re-TIM


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Does the EK D5 pump actually hit 1500 L/PH ??

That's insane if true.

1500 L/PH D5 pump from EK


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunnzAkimbo*
> 
> Does the EK D5 pump actually hit 1500 L/PH ??
> 
> That's insane if true.
> 
> 1500 L/PH D5 pump from EK


I would guess that they got the 1500L/PH rating while it's running @24v and not 12v....... Just my thought though.


----------



## skupples

seems kinda vague... That would depend on what you are hooking it up to, & so forth.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> seems kinda vague... That would depend on what you are hooking it up to, & so forth.


Yeah, the "flow rate" for almost any pumps as advertised is usually done with a zero restriction loop. Huge pools to draw from, and out put running over a flow meter only. So in the WC world, a little misleading.


----------



## BradleyW

I've got the EK D5 and it powers a massive loop (See sig rig) on speed setting 3 (silent) and the water moves very quickly. It is the only pump I'd recommend.


----------



## VSG

A quick shot from my session of installing the EK 780 Classy on my Kingpins:


----------



## jokrik

I know the EK products aren't as much as my previous build
but I still trust my CPU block with EK along with the radiators





sexiest cpu block out there


----------



## dervladimir

I need more friends&#8230; more, more, more


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

EK 290X DCuII blocks where are you ?!


----------



## King4x4

Any chance of ordering the mosfet top for the RIVBE?

Mine came broken and want to order a replacement when I do my regular maintance in the future (Not in a hurry for the time being).


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Any chance of ordering the mosfet top for the RIVBE?
> 
> Mine came broken and want to order a replacement when I do my regular maintance in the future (Not in a hurry for the time being).


that QC sticker though


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Any chance of ordering the mosfet top for the RIVBE?
> 
> Mine came broken and want to order a replacement when I do my regular maintance in the future (Not in a hurry for the time being).


If it came broken contact the retailer. If that was us, go ahead and file a support ticket and we'll get you a new top asap.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Any chance of ordering the mosfet top for the RIVBE?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Mine came broken and want to order a replacement when I do my regular maintance in the future (Not in a hurry for the time being).


They unfortunately don't sell them by them selves, but as Derick said, you should be 100% covered by the warranty, either by the reseller, or by EK them selves.

Posta Slovenia!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> They unfortunately don't sell them by them selves, but as Derick said, you should be 100% covered by the warranty, either by the reseller, or by EK them selves.
> 
> Posta Slovenia!


Actually they do sell the tops separate look here http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/block-spare-parts/tops/plexi-acrylic/motherboard.html


----------



## skupples

I was thinking of the entire block. The top is likely identical to the R4E.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I was thinking of the entire block. The top is likely identical to the R4E.


and sorry but actually you can buy the entire block if you want to


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> that QC sticker though


Most likely it broke during shipping... Checking the rest of the gear and I found one the 290x blocks actually had a hole ON THE PACKING FROM OUTSIDE THE BOX!

Went loco thinking the block was damaged but I saw the hit was on the Acetal part of the block and thats much much harder then the plexi.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If it came broken contact the retailer. If that was us, go ahead and file a support ticket and we'll get you a new top asap.


Doing that today... Actually got an order with ya lads for 2500 euros so might as well stick it in there








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Actually they do sell the tops separate look here http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/block-spare-parts/tops/plexi-acrylic/motherboard.html


Not the clean CSQ of the RIVBE.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> and sorry but actually you can buy the entire block if you want to


Should check again. They don't even sell the R4E block by it's self any more. They pulled it down a week or two ago. I had multiple communications with EK where multiple staff denied selling the VRM/Mosfet channel by it's self.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Should check again. They don't even sell the R4E block by it's self any more. They pulled it down a week or two ago. I had multiple communications with EK where multiple staff denied selling the VRM/Mosfet channel by it's self.


Sorry you are right I thought I saw it on PPC but it was RF4 just looked a 2nd time and was going to link...


----------



## iamkraine

I noticed that a buddy of mine mixed up the inlet and outlet on the EK Supremacy. I told him it would decrease his performance. Is that true? By how much?


----------



## Skyddsskor

I join too 
EK block for Crosshair V Formula
EK HF Supreme full Copper
EK triple paralel bridge
3x EK-FC580 GTX+
EK PSC Compression fitting
EK 90 degree adapter


----------



## derickwm

Post some pictures!


----------



## Skyddsskor

Here are they


----------



## Jimhans1

Lol, the bridge is upside down.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Sorry you are right I thought I saw it on PPC but it was RF4 just looked a 2nd time and was going to link...


If you had access to a machine shop it would be pretty easy to convert the Vanilla RIVE block. All you would need to do is trim off the end.


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, the bridge is upside down.


Yupe, I was sleepy when installing that bridge. Just waiting for G1/4 EK plug now..


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyddsskor*
> 
> Yupe, I was sleepy when installing that bridge. Just waiting for G1/4 EK plug now..


If you reverse it, you could get rid of that 90 fitting at the bottom and go straight into the side of the bridge. Just a thought.


----------



## Egami

What happened to that poor cpu block?


----------



## wermad

I've seen them arrive w/ scuffs. But that could be just normal wear and tear







.


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I noticed that a buddy of mine mixed up the inlet and outlet on the EK Supremacy. I told him it would decrease his performance. Is that true? By how much?


BUMP ! I'm suppose to know this. Am I right or does the performance remain relatively the same?


----------



## King4x4

The Performance will be lackluster... I did that once in my noob days on a supreme HF and had an increase of 4'C on the cpu.


----------



## Asus11

can I fit a EK-DCP 4.0 Pump onto a EK-DCP 2.2 X-RES?

the res look the same as the 4.0, need confirmation


----------



## wermad

Yes, same pump design from Jingway.


----------



## King4x4

EK Pics!


----------



## skupples

nice! I didn't bother putting TIM on my boards mosfets, though I always do with my GPU's.


----------



## wermad

Ugh, i hate it when ppl put goo on anything other then the cpu or gpu core (or designated chipset per instructions). Very messy







. Just cut up your pad large enough so you're not chasing small pieces all the time. Otherwise, I really don't see any point in adding tim on the chokes and vrm chips (or vram chips). My Lightnings were a bit messy when I got them and the previous owners did use the wrong pad, chopped up into a bunch of small pieces, held down by goo. It was a pita to clean each one. I have a bunch of pad i buy cheap of ebay. Its just so much easier this way and you're not wasting goo. My


----------



## King4x4

Well I was using a long strip and the goo is extra thermal conductivity.... The goo works cause it makes any air bubbles show up when I am putting the strips pretty fast... then a quick squeeze and BOOOOOOP the air goes out


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ugh, i hate it when ppl put goo on anything other then the cpu or gpu core (or designated chipset per instructions). Very messy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Just cut up your pad large enough so you're not chasing small pieces all the time. Otherwise, I really don't see any point in adding tim on the chokes and vrm chips (or vram chips). My Lightnings were a bit messy when I got them and the previous owners did use the wrong pad, chopped up into a bunch of small pieces, held down by goo. It was a pita to clean each one. I have a bunch of pad i buy cheap of ebay. Its just so much easier this way and you're not wasting goo. My


I agree, the only place TIM should be used on is the GPU die or on the CPU IHS. Not on the VRMs or the mosfets. Waste of paste and I'm sure the differences in temps are minimal at best.


----------



## skupples

true,

I started doing it because it said so in the EK directions. IR Lemming.

I use PK-3 though, which is extremely thick. I have to squeeze it out & stir it up with a tooth pick before applying it. I then put on a glove & smear tiny amount on each chip.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> true,
> 
> I started doing it because it said so in the EK directions. IR Lemming.
> 
> I use PK-3 though, which is extremely thick. I have to squeeze it out & stir it up with a tooth pick before applying it. I then put on a glove & smear tiny amount on each chip.


If we wrote please clamp to your chest and jump into the ocean to properly water cool, would you do it? 

I kid I kid


----------



## King4x4

I would!

MOAR COOLEZ!


----------



## wermad

I like to spread the tim on the cores. something that others don't and just use the dot and smear approach. Since I have a ton of the end pieces of cable ties, I use those as a spreader


----------



## skupples

I did say lemming... One time I jumped off of the Golden Gate because I saw a guy commit suicide. Some how I survived.

part about witnessing a man jump off of the Golden Gate true. Happened @ the age of 10 during a field trip


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> can I fit a EK-DCP 4.0 Pump onto a EK-DCP 2.2 X-RES?
> 
> the res look the same as the 4.0, need confirmation


Maybe you can try direct connection fitting for SLI or CF


----------



## inedenimadam

This might be a dumb question, but I am going to ask it anyway.

Can a 7950 block fit a 7970?

I am trying to water cool my 7970s as cheap as possible, and there are some 7950 blocks on amazon for a decent price. I am sure the DC2 7970 will require a specific block, but the TF3 accepts a ref 7970, and I am wondering if a 7950 ref block will work for it too.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> This might be a dumb question, but I am going to ask it anyway.
> 
> Can a 7950 block fit a 7970?
> 
> I am trying to water cool my 7970s as cheap as possible, and there are some 7950 blocks on amazon for a decent price. I am sure the DC2 7970 will require a specific block, but the TF3 accepts a ref 7970, and I am wondering if a 7950 ref block will work for it too.


Take a look at some high resolution images of both the PCB and block in question. You should be able to make a better decision afterwards. In theory, it should fit without any problems since the 7950 and 7970 share the same PCB's "general" layout. Buy and try at your own risk. My post is purely opinion and speculation.

Opinion based on reference HD 79xx design.


----------



## derickwm

Check out coolingconfigurator.com to check compatibility with cards/blocks.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Check out coolingconfigurator.com to check compatibility with cards/blocks.


Thanks Derrick, but I am trying to fit square peg into round hole, I am sure that the cooling confiugrator does not list any 7950 blocks for the 7970tf3. I have already checked.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Check out coolingconfigurator.com to check compatibility with cards/blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Derrick, but I am trying to fit square peg into round hole, I am sure that the cooling confiugrator does not list any 7950 blocks for the 7970tf3. I have already checked.
Click to expand...

Well I checked out the 7970 (pre-csq) block I have here with me vs the reference pre-csq 7950 block photos, as well as both PCBs of the 7950TF3 and 7970TF3 and I'd say there's a high chance that the 7950 block will not fit the 7970TF3. Our product manager does very close inspections and is hardly ever wrong, so if the hardware is listed on CoolingConfig and doesn't show a block compatible with a card, there's a good chance it won't. That, along with my own observations I just made I don't think it'll work.


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> This might be a dumb question, but I am going to ask it anyway.
> 
> Can a 7950 block fit a 7970?
> 
> I am trying to water cool my 7970s as cheap as possible, and there are some 7950 blocks on amazon for a decent price. I am sure the DC2 7970 will require a specific block, but the TF3 accepts a ref 7970, and I am wondering if a 7950 ref block will work for it too.


Nope, 7970 DC2 will only be paired with EK-FC7970 DCII waterblock and universal GPU waterblock.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Thanks Derrick, but I am trying to fit square peg into round hole, I am sure that the cooling confiugrator does not list any 7950 blocks for the 7970tf3. I have already checked.


What happened to the ghetto-fab mod waterblock????


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Thanks Derrick, but I am trying to fit square peg into round hole, I am sure that the cooling confiugrator does not list any 7950 blocks for the 7970tf3. I have already checked.
> 
> 
> 
> What happened to the ghetto-fab mod waterblock????
Click to expand...

It is running strong! but I want a more elegant solution because I have a second card coming in, and wont have the room for all that fantabulous ghetto stuff to get in the way. I am still a scrouge and dont want to pay full asking price for waterblocks...just seems silly to spend almost 1/2 again to keep the things cool and quiet.

Edit to add:

Thanks for double checking Derrick, I will just have to squeeze a few more Benjamins out of the wallet and do it right.


----------



## skupples

@derickwm u got PM.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Any ETA on the finish of the 290x DCUII block for ASUS cards?


----------



## inedenimadam

I just realized that I totally screwed the look of my build by mixing cards. The TF3 and the DC2 variety of 7970 have completely different block styles that are not even going to line up.

ug...

I might end up keeping the ghetto fab for the tf3 and just full blocking the dc2


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I just realized that I totally screwed the look of my build by mixing cards. The TF3 and the DC2 variety of 7970 have completely different block styles that are not even going to line up.
> 
> ug...
> 
> I might end up keeping the ghetto fab for the tf3 and just full blocking the dc2


It almost happened with me as well.
That time I had 2 GTX 285s ver 2 and a gtx 285 ver 1.
Both block can't be switched from one version to other because different alignmend. I ended up with selling those card. It's good for me because I didn't buy the blocks yet.

@INCREDIBLEHULK: probably within 2-3 weeks periods, same as my waiting time for EK-FC580 GTX+ block to be available in EK store.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyddsskor*
> 
> It almost happened with me as well.
> That time I had 2 GTX 285s ver 2 and a gtx 285 ver 1.
> Both block can't be switched from one version to other because different alignmend. I ended up with selling those card. It's good for me because I didn't buy the blocks yet.
> 
> @INCREDIBLEHULK: probably within 2-3 weeks periods, same as my waiting time for EK-FC580 GTX+ block to be available in EK store.


You can still get NEW 580 GtX+ blocks through the EK store???? BRB, gotta place an order!!!


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> You can still get NEW 580 GtX+ blocks through the EK store???? BRB, gotta place an order!!!


Yes, I've checked it 5 hours ago, it's still available only view pieces.
If you miss them, looks like you have to wait at least 3 weeks.
Enjoy your shopping time.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyddsskor*
> 
> Yes, I've checked it 5 hours ago, it's still available only view pieces.
> If you miss them, looks like you have to wait at least 3 weeks.
> Enjoy your shopping time.


I just snagged the last two nickel acetal blocks! Lol, yay.

+rep sir!!

But wow, $50+ for shipping, ah well. Gotta have them, and the price was awesome, to bad no backplates. I just ordered backplates from www.coldzero.eu instead!!!


----------



## Pheozero

Anyone know how tall the 780 Classy and block would be in mm? Trying to do some calcs and see how much I space I would have.


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I just snagged the last two nickel acetal blocks! Lol, yay.
> 
> +rep sir!!
> 
> But wow, $50+ for shipping, ah well. Gotta have them, and the price was awesome, to bad no backplates. I just ordered backplates from www.coldzero.eu instead!!!


Most of the time, I check the EK store and performance-pcs.com for availability of EK parts.

You can find those ek-fc580 backplates at below link

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1208&products_id=39787

If you're in US, you get the most advantage, bro


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyddsskor*
> 
> Most of the time, I check the EK store and performance-pcs.com for availability of EK parts.
> 
> You can find those ek-fc580 backplates at below link
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1208&products_id=39787
> 
> If you're in US, you get the most advantage, bro


Yeah, but the coldzero units look better, and not much more $, and I had him make them in the colors of my build!!!!!


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Anyone know how tall the 780 Classy and block would be in mm? Trying to do some calcs and see how much I space I would have.


Tall which way? As in laying horizontally in a standard case? If so, with or without backplate?


----------



## Sluggo

I just got done installing EK block and backplate on my second 780 Classy. The instruction "recommends" adding TIM in addition to the thermal pads to optimize heat transfer. It sounded to me like too many layers to get in the way of the heat dissipation. Anyone out there tried it with and without and had differences in temps?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> I just got done installing EK block and backplate on my second 780 Classy. The instruction "recommends" adding TIM in addition to the thermal pads to optimize heat transfer. It sounded to me like too many layers to get in the way of the heat dissipation. Anyone out there tried it with and without and had differences in temps?


On my gtx580's I saw a VRM temp difference of 5-7c drop using TIM on them, don't know about the memory as I had no way to measure that, but now I use it on ALL my blocks and cards between the thermal pads and VRM's


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> Tall which way? As in laying horizontally in a standard case? If so, with or without backplate?


I'm planning to put it in a CaseLabs S5, so it'll be standing up vertically. With backplate, please.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> I'm planning to put it in a CaseLabs S5, so it'll be standing up vertically. With backplate, please.


So you need the card measured from the pcie slot to the top of the bridge/port area correct?


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> On my gtx580's I saw a VRM temp difference of 5-7c drop using TIM on them, don't know about the memory as I had no way to measure that, but now I use it on ALL my blocks and cards between the thermal pads and VRM's


Same setup, components, clocks, voltages, etc?


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> So you need the card measured from the pcie slot to the top of the bridge/port area correct?


Yes, please.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> Same setup, components, clocks, voltages, etc?


Exact same. The only variable as far as I could make it WAS the TIM under the thermal pads.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Yes, please.


Lol, I just saw you asked for the classy, I don't have a classy. Would a standard Ti help at all? I think the classy is taller than the standard.....


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Anyone know how tall the 780 Classy and block would be in mm? Trying to do some calcs and see how much I space I would have.


I know the angle on the pic is a little off, but it's 20mm with a backplate


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> I just got done installing EK block and backplate on my second 780 Classy. The instruction "recommends" adding TIM in addition to the thermal pads to optimize heat transfer. It sounded to me like too many layers to get in the way of the heat dissipation. Anyone out there tried it with and without and had differences in temps?


I use Fuji-poly extreme thermal pads + TIM on my VRM's/memory... I use an extremely thin layer, on the top & bottom of the pads.

EK's stock thermal pads are not so hot.


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Exact same. The only variable as far as I could make it WAS the TIM under the thermal pads.


Interesting. Shoot, I'll try it next time. I don't feel like taking apart the blocks and redoing everything. Thanks


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> Interesting. Shoot, I'll try it next time. I don't feel like taking apart the blocks and redoing everything. Thanks


My pleasure.


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I use Fuji-poly extreme thermal pads + TIM on my VRM's/memory... I use an extremely thin layer, on the top & bottom of the pads.
> 
> EK's stock thermal pads are not so hot.


I read some of the feedback on FCPU. Are they really that good?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> I read some of the feedback on FCPU. Are they really that good?


Fuji-poly for life!!! Best dang thing *I've* done to a GPU!!! But I still put the TIM down first!!


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> I know the angle on the pic is a little off, but it's 20mm with a backplate
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Close, but I need it standing vertical like this:


From the terminal on the top to the PCIe slot.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> I read some of the feedback on FCPU. Are they really that good?


Fujipoly is like clay, if I had to describe it, it's like dried TIM squeezed into a sheet.

I wouldn't blow the money on the top of the line stuff though. Get the mid-grade & TIM both sides. I tried using PK-3, but it's a bit too thick for this type of use.


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Anyone know how tall the 780 Classy and block would be in mm? Trying to do some calcs and see how much I space I would have.


16mm without the backplate


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Fujipoly is like clay, if I had to describe it, it's like dried TIM squeezed into a sheet.
> 
> I wouldn't blow the money on the top of the line stuff though. Get the mid-grade & TIM both sides. I tried using PK-3, but it's a bit too thick for this type of use.


I've been using GC-Extreme with great results.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I've been using GC-Extreme with great results.












I found out the hard way to NOT use Cool Labs with Copper. It causes almost instant consumption of Copper... I kinda put two & two together AFTER re-applying it & sticking them back in the computer. Hopefully the scotch bright pad will be enough to fix w/e damage is caused by the time I pull them apart next time.

I'm not too worried about the CPU block, that can be easily fixed. Leveling the GPU block is a different story.


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Close, but I need it standing vertical like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the terminal on the top to the PCIe slot.


You mean this way? If so, looks like about 157mm from the top of the inlet/outlet housing to where the metal "teeth" start at the PCIe insert


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I've been using GC-Extreme with great results.


That's what I'm using on my current build too. About to mount the cpu


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> That's what I'm using on my current build too. About to mount the cpu


Heat a glass of water and put the syringe in it for a few minutes. It really helps it flow out better!!


----------



## skupples

Might have to try that next time around. I have multiple 1 Gram needles from my recent EK acquisitions. muuuuch better than the old "ektotherm"


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Heat a glass of water and put the syringe in it for a few minutes. It really helps it flow out better!!


Yeah, it's thick but not as bad as Shin-Etsu


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Might have to try that next time around. I have multiple 1 Gram needles from my recent EK acquisitions. muuuuch better than the old "ektotherm"


The new stuff is called Ectotherm too right? Just a different version?


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> You mean this way? If so, looks like about 157mm from the top of the inlet/outlet housing to where the metal "teeth" start at the PCIe insert
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah, that's the one I need! Perfect. Thanks for the help. +1

Unfortunately, looks like there isn't a chance my plan will work out and I'll have to improvise. Time to get a pedestal with my S5


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Yeah, that's the one I need! Perfect. Thanks for the help. +1
> 
> Unfortunately, looks like there isn't a chance my plan will work out and I'll have to improvise. Time to get a pedestal with my S5


Such a coincidence that I just got done mounting my classy block and still had the finished card out on the table.







Glad I could help and I got my first rep!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> The new stuff is called Ectotherm too right? Just a different version?


Not actually sure. My most recent order of 4 blocks came with 3x Gelid Extreme samples, & one ektotherm. Ekto seems to always separate inside the needle. So squeezing it out reveals oil. I normally save it for the other less OP systems around the house....

speaking of which, bad shot of finished product...



<3 my tri-titans, by far the most attached iv'e ever been to a GPU... Probably the price tag. A year old, and they are still insanely fast, specially thx to all the work Zawarudo, Ed, & Sky did.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> Such a coincidence that I just got done mounting my classy block and still had the finished card out on the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad I could help and I got my first rep!


first two!


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Not actually sure. My most recent order of 4 blocks came with 3x Gelid Extreme samples, & one ektotherm. Ekto seems to always separate inside the needle. So squeezing it out reveals oil. I normally save it for the other less OP systems around the house....
> 
> speaking of which, bad shot of finished product...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> <3 my tri-titans, by far the most attached iv'e ever been to a GPU... Probably the price tag. A year old, and they are still insanely fast, specially thx to all the work Zawarudo, Ed, & Sky did.
> first two!


Man, that's beastly! Are you running multiple 1440 monitors or what?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> Man, that's beastly! Are you running multiple 1440 monitors or what?


3x 1080p atm... Planning a monitor swap @ some point soon though. I can't upgrade to 20nm maxwell in good conscious without getting new panels first. (20nm maxwell is likely a year away, so I have time







)


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 3x 1080p atm... Planning a monitor swap @ some point soon though. I can't upgrade to 20nm maxwell in good conscious without getting new panels first. (20nm maxwell is likely a year away, so I have time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Gotcha. Personally, I'm waiting for the new 1440p G-Sync monitor


----------



## Skyddsskor

I just grabbed the last 2 EK-FC580 GTX+ acetal nickel, hueheu.
It's been my lucky day today.
Now waiting for Rog Xpander, hueheu...


----------



## Archea47

Is this the best orientation for my EK Supremacy block on an AMD FX-8350 or should I rotate it 90* clockwise?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If we wrote please clamp to your chest and jump into the ocean to properly water cool, would you do it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kid I kid


So your advice is "Ignore Manufacturer's Installation Instructions" ? And if intent is "just some of them", how do we tell what to pay attention to and what to ignore ? I ask cause failure to follow manufacturer's instructions is oft used as a reason to void warranty.

I pre-assembled my 1st WB on the 780 as I was concerned about clearances lengthwise and wanted to confirm fit before ordering my 2nd block and card.....(cleared by about 2.5cm, BTW). Ordered 2nd card and waited few weeks for answer from EK on the missing nutz to attach the long backplate to the shorter clean style block (still no answer BTW since October) and used the single card for testing.

When the 2nd card / block came, and I read instructions more carefully (noticed the TIM instruction) and I redid the 1st one with TIM. Saw a 2.5C drop on the VRMs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> I just got done installing EK block and backplate on my second 780 Classy. The instruction "recommends" adding TIM in addition to the thermal pads to optimize heat transfer. It sounded to me like too many layers to get in the way of the heat dissipation. Anyone out there tried it with and without and had differences in temps?


See above .... note...the 2.5C is prolly light in that the 1st one was after 2 weeks or use and the 2nd temp was on 1st test after build. I usually see a few C drop after a few heat up / cool down cycles..... I even do a few runs with rad fans off to get temps above normal...... if find it "sets" the TIM better..... nothing dangerous .... like if normal running is 75C on a CPU OC, I'll get it to 80C for 3-4 minutes..... let it cool down ... rinse and repeat a few times. Typical drop is 2-3C.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Anyone know how tall the 780 Classy and block would be in mm? Trying to do some calcs and see how much I space I would have.


If ya get em, please add top the database

http://www.overclock.net/t/1437498/data-resource-for-wcers-gfx-card-dimensions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I use an extremely thin layer, on the top & bottom of the pads.


Likewise ..... I also find it's sometimes easier to spread on the pad with the Gelid paddle thingie than on individual chips.....like the big one under the backplate.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> I read some of the feedback on FCPU. Are they really that good?


Better ! Sometimes I will e-mail them at like 10 at night on a Sunday.... expecting an answer in a day or two and I'll get an answer in a half hour. Had them "suspend" policy a few times and take returns on ordering mistakes I made..... have made suggestions for stocking of new parts and they've all been added. Was having some trouble fitting my sleeved wires into the connectors and was invited up to spend and hour or so with their sleeving guys working out what the issue is.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> Gotcha. Personally, I'm waiting for the new 1440p G-Sync monitor


& i'm waiting for g-sync to work in surround... It's still on the "to do list" over @ Nvidia. A rumor is floating around you can do it with 3 GPU's, but that is 100% false. It will require an MST hub, even if you have 3x GPU's according to Nvidia moderation staff.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> 
> 
> Is this the best orientation for my EK Supremacy block on an AMD FX-8350 or should I rotate it 90* clockwise?


most tests show that a vertical orientation has a slight positive effect on temps. Some sights report it within the margin of error, other's show an actual 2-3 c gain.


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Better ! Sometimes I will e-mail them at like 10 at night on a Sunday.... expecting an answer in a day or two and I'll get an answer in a half hour. Had them "suspend" policy a few times and take returns on ordering mistakes I made..... have made suggestions for stocking of new parts and they've all been added. Was having some trouble fitting my sleeved wires into the connectors and was invited up to spend and hour or so with their sleeving guys working out what the issue is.


Yes, I've bought purchased from FCPU many times and had them respond to many questions as well. Great customer service! But, I was actually referring to the Fujipoly reviews on their website in response to skupples mentioning that he uses it instead of stock thermal pads.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If we wrote please clamp to your chest and jump into the ocean to properly water cool, would you do it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kid I kid
> 
> 
> 
> So your advice is "Ignore Manufacturer's Installation Instructions" ? And if intent is "just some of them", how do we tell what to pay attention to and what to ignore ? I ask cause failure to follow manufacturer's instructions is oft used as a reason to void warranty.
> 
> I pre-assembled my 1st WB on the 780 as I was concerned about clearances lengthwise and wanted to confirm fit before ordering my 2nd block and card.....(cleared by about 2.5cm, BTW). Ordered 2nd card and waited few weeks for answer from EK on the missing nutz to attach the long backplate to the shorter clean style block (still no answer BTW since October) and used the single card for testing.
> 
> When the 2nd card / block came, and I read instructions more carefully (noticed the TIM instruction) and I redid the 1st one with TIM. Saw a 2.5C drop on the VRMs
Click to expand...

y so srs?

And no that isn't my advice. A lot of time goes into making each individual manual. They're there for a reason, if it's in the manual, we recommend you to do as it instructs.


----------



## skupples

I ran into the same "missing nuts" dealio. Even the back plate I ordered by it's self didn't come with any hardware. I circumvented this lack of hardware by using the nut for the I/O on the back of the card.

Some times I think PPC/FCPU remove hardware. Specially with radiators. My EK rads both state they come with 30mm & 35mm, but every time I get one they only have 30mm.







Luckily the local yachting hardware store has pretty much every metric screw type known to man.

speaking of response time. I notice Sajn has a tendency to only respond once every 24 hours, even if you respond to his email within minutes of receiving it. He's probably extremely overburdened, so I can't blame him. PPC responds to my emails almost instantly, & they almost always answer the phone.


----------



## derickwm

Šajn is basically the busiest guy in the company, works from home even after everyone leaves the office.


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Šajn is basically the busiest guy in the company, works from home even after everyone leaves the office.


Is it possible to combine separate orders in EK Store??
I just add new order while my previous order is still being processed.


----------



## niklot1981

__
https://flic.kr/p/jSXMyf



__
https://flic.kr/p/jSVuXK



__
https://flic.kr/p/jSVurz



__
https://flic.kr/p/jSXMbb



__
https://flic.kr/p/jSVtZ2



__
https://flic.kr/p/jSWeZe



__
https://flic.kr/p/jSVttH


----------



## Sluggo

Nice pics. I wish EK would make those leak test stickers easier to remove.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> Nice pics. I wish EK would make those leak test stickers easier to remove.


I wish they made more ram blocks in the non-csq circles as a complete package, instead of needing to buy the extra top for more $!!!!

I think it looks to tacky to mix the csq and clean version blocks in the same build. But a lot of that is personal preference and my OCD!! I think the rads should all be from one maker (model doesn't matter), the blocks should all be from the same maker, and so forth, it doesn't matter to me if the blocks and rads have the same maker, but again, that's just my personal opinion.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> Nice pics. I wish EK would make those leak test stickers easier to remove.


hit it with low temp heat gun. Hell, iv'e opened some boxes where the sticker is just sitting on the plastic wrap.


----------



## King4x4

Well had a client come into the shop today.... We had 7 290x EK blocks on the show room.... dude bought them all!!









Yup... a miner has been spotted!


----------



## wermad

Finally got the mb in to fit the mb block. I'm still a while away in finishing this thing







.


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I wish they made more ram blocks in the non-csq circles as a complete package, instead of needing to buy the extra top for more $!!!!
> 
> I think it looks to tacky to mix the csq and clean version blocks in the same build. But a lot of that is personal preference and my OCD!! I think the rads should all be from one maker (model doesn't matter), the blocks should all be from the same maker, and so forth, it doesn't matter to me if the blocks and rads have the same maker, but again, that's just my personal opinion.


Ha ha, I feel the same way man! Uniformity and order!


----------



## skupples

lol, I always end up buying EK rads because alpahacool & the others are always sold out when i'm shopping.


----------



## PinzaC55

Hi everybody, I haven't done much PC work for a long time now but I recently acquired a second GTX 690 which is already watercooled with an EK FC690 block as is my original 690 as seen in this photo of my current rig. The problem is that I have looked at photo's of the EK serial and parallel connectors and it appears that they have have two holes on the bottom and one on the side. Is there any way to get one with 2 holes on the right hand side so that when I place the GPU in Slot 3 I can simply plug the tubes in with minimal alteration? I suppose the only other possibility is to have 1 90 degree elbow coming out of each GPU with a tube between them?

To be more specific, this is what I mean


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Hi everybody, I haven't done much PC work for a long time now but I recently acquired a second GTX 690 which is already watercooled with an EK FC690 block as is my original 690 as seen in this photo of my current rig. The problem is that I have looked at photo's of the EK serial and parallel connectors and it appears that they have have two holes on the bottom and one on the side. Is there any way to get one with 2 holes on the right hand side so that when I place the GPU in Slot 3 I can simply plug the tubes in with minimal alteration? I suppose the only other possibility is to have 1 90 degree elbow coming out of each GPU with a tube between them?
> 
> To be more specific, this is what I mean


Instead using EK-FC links and bridge, you can use direct connection.
Have a look at below link for the sample

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393_766

AFAIK, the bridge from EK always only has one G1/4 port on the side.


----------



## ozzy1925

today i received my ek parts from performance pcs. i saw a crack on the edge of the clear ram block and scratches on the back plate near ek logo









should i email them ?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> today i received my ek parts from performance pcs. i saw a crack on the edge of the clear ram block and scratches on the back plate
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> near ek logo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> should i email them ?


Yes, I would contact them ASAP...

Acrylic is brittle, it cracks easily. Iv'e seen allot of cracked blocks over the years.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yes, I would contact them ASAP...
> 
> Acrylic is brittle, it cracks easily. Iv'e seen allot of cracked blocks over the years.


ok i have sent them an email i hope they replace


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> ok i have sent them an email i hope they replace


shouldn't be an issue. If they do for some reason refuse (Which they won't) just PM derick.


----------



## Malik

Project *Aquarius*


----------



## failwheeldrive

Purrdy


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> shouldn't be an issue. If they do for some reason refuse (Which they won't) just PM derick.


thanks i hope they fix it


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Project *Aquarius*


Tube ID/OD?
Looks nice


----------



## skupples

already dropped these in the water cooling club, but figured I would drop them here as well..


----------



## wzhaoca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Did my full install yesterday. The acrylic connections I wanted to do didn't turn out how I wanted them to, so I need to order some extensions to level a few connectors out for an alternative route.


Hi ProfeZZor X,

I like what you've done to your R4BE motherboard. I will hopefully soon be installing water blocks to mine. My setup will look very similar to yours. I do like the look of the IO cover, but it's connected to the VRM's heat sink. Can I ask how you installed the waterblock while retaining the IO cover ? Does the heat pipe some how pull out of the IO cover ?

Thanks!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wzhaoca*
> 
> Hi ProfeZZor X,
> 
> I like what you've done to your R4BE motherboard. I will hopefully soon be installing water blocks to mine. My setup will look very similar to yours. I do like the look of the IO cover, but it's connected to the VRM's heat sink. Can I ask how you installed the waterblock while retaining the IO cover ? Does the heat pipe some how pull out of the IO cover ?
> 
> Thanks!


You have a few options.

option A.) cut the heat pipe.
option B.) Heat up the heat pipe, melting the glue, thus allowing you to pull out the pipe. This is the more favored option, because it's possible to wiggle the pipe back in, if you ever need to RMA.

option B takes quite a bit of heat. Most people are finding they have to use a high end heat gun, or blow torch... The torch does not discolor.


----------



## fast_fate

Question for our resident rep, derickwm
I got one of these - EK-D5 Dual TOP 2-LOOPS - White Acetal.
Not from Frozen but from online retailer in Australia.

Problem is that one of the screw holes on the "clamping pump down part" does not match up with the hole in the pump mount part.
the two screw hole closest to the outlet ports on pump part are offset a bit away from the ports, otherwise they would have drilled into the ports when making them.
NOW on the clamp down part only one of those holes is offset to mate with threaded hole in the pump part.
The offending hole on the clamp down part is not offset above outlet port 2, and does not work.
Should this be RMA or support ticket.
My retailer said to contact EK direct and this is my first port of call.
Cheers

*Never mind* - Peter has sorted me out and is sending a new clamping plate








Super fast customer support with the understanding of achieving a mutually acceptable outcome








VERY impressed !!!

Just for laughs here's a couple of pics of the issue I found when trying to assemble (pumps not included)
for the pics I put a short screw in the pump side to clearly show that the clamping plate hole does not match up.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> y so srs?
> 
> And no that isn't my advice. A lot of time goes into making each individual manual. They're there for a reason, if it's in the manual, we recommend you to do as it instructs.


I didn't know how to take what you wrote ..... I thot you might be joking at first but re-reading I got impression that you were actually recommending not using the TIM.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> Yes, I've bought purchased from FCPU many times and had them respond to many questions as well. Great customer service! But, I was actually referring to the Fujipoly reviews on their website in response to skupples mentioning that he uses it instead of stock thermal pads.


When i saw the 1st response I thot as much but going back and rereading I couldn't match up FCPU with "Fujipoly"


----------



## wermad

Its not the end of the world if you put tim on the vrm or other parts to hold down the pad. I personally don't like it because its messy. Most scenarios (and I mentioned this), block makers will give you just enough pad and you end up cutting it into small pieces to make sure there's enough for the application. If you don't want to add tim to hold down the pad, buy some more. The usual shops already carry enough or if you don't mind waiting a bit, order some from Ebay from a chinese seller. They have large sheets of thermal pad for great prices. I know some folks go w/ the expensive pad but I've been using the stuff from ebay on many, many applications and i have no complaints. I actually used it for my EK ram blocks as I only got a bit from Bitspower (plates). I have a few sheets of 0.5, 1.0, and 1.5mm thick pad (200mmx200mm):

edit: ~$10-15 each sheet (thicker, more expensive).



So in the end, each block no matter what company will give you enough (and sometimes a bit more) pad. I remember my old DD GTX 480 actually required adding tim to the vram and a thin 0.3mm pad on the vrm. I went with 0.5mm pad all around and got great temps anyways.


----------



## Sluggo

Anybody know of any alternative mounting brackets for a D5 X-Res Top 100 CSQ? I need to get creative.


----------



## wzhaoca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> You have a few options.
> 
> option A.) cut the heat pipe.
> option B.) Heat up the heat pipe, melting the glue, thus allowing you to pull out the pipe. This is the more favored option, because it's possible to wiggle the pipe back in, if you ever need to RMA.
> 
> option B takes quite a bit of heat. Most people are finding they have to use a high end heat gun, or blow torch... The torch does not discolor.


Thanks for the tip! I might try B. I do have a heat gun, will see how that goes.


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Tube ID/OD?
> Looks nice


10/16mm (3/8" - 5/8") Tubing


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyddsskor*
> 
> Instead using EK-FC links and bridge, you can use direct connection.
> Have a look at below link for the sample
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393_766
> 
> AFAIK, the bridge from EK always only has one G1/4 port on the side.


Oh OK thanks I suppose thinking logically the internal layout doesn't allow for the ports on the same side.







Maybe they will introduce one in future?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wzhaoca*
> 
> Thanks for the tip! I might try B. I do have a heat gun, will see how that goes.


good luck!! The heat pipes are REAlLY soft.


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Oh OK thanks I suppose thinking logically the internal layout doesn't allow for the ports on the same side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe they will introduce one in future?


Whick case do you use.
If you use Silverstone Raven RV03, then you can get dual port G1/4 on the side because GPU position will be vertical.
AFAIK, the bridge for GPU has same G1/4 as EK bridge.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyddsskor*
> 
> Whick case do you use.
> If you use Silverstone Raven RV03, then you can get dual port G1/4 on the side because GPU position will be vertical.
> AFAIK, the bridge for GPU has same G1/4 as EK bridge.


Hi, I use the HAF-X though may shortly be moving to a 900D both of which involve the GPU being horizontal. I have ordered Bitspower 90 degree elbows and an adjustable adapter which has cost me an arm and a leg but the GTX 690 has been lying around for a week unused and I couldn't be bothered to wait.


----------



## niklot1981

__
https://flic.kr/p/jXw7MN


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Hi, I use the HAF-X though may shortly be moving to a 900D both of which involve the GPU being horizontal. I have ordered Bitspower 90 degree elbows and an adjustable adapter which has cost me an arm and a leg but the GTX 690 has been lying around for a week unused and I couldn't be bothered to wait.


I use same case as your.
If you only want to use dual GTX690, HAF-X is more than enough. You can place dual rads, one powerfull pump,and drive bay reservoir.
I'm sorry this.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

http://www.ekwb.com/news/438/19/New-FC-water-block-in-the-making-for-ASUS-R9290X-DC2/

Any news?


----------



## Slinky PC

How to watercool your ddc pumps with EK RAM


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks i hope they fix it


update:
i emailed performance pcs. yesterday and they said "forwarded to EK and they will contact you to resolve"i also pmed derick


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I've been using GC-Extreme with great results.


Has your EK order been shipped??
I've checked that mine is not yet shipped :-(


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyddsskor*
> 
> Has your EK order been shipped??
> I've checked that mine is not yet shipped :-(


No, my order still says processing. I'm hoping it goes out today, it shouldn't take too much longer I hope.

I really wish that they had some of the Nickel Plexi blocks instead of the nickel acetal, they don't even have the replacement covers in Plexi.


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> No, my order still says processing. I'm hoping it goes out today, it shouldn't take too much longer I hope.
> 
> I really wish that they had some of the Nickel Plexi blocks instead of the nickel acetal, they don't even have the replacement covers in Plexi.


They will ship the orders by tomorrow only. Tomorrow will be the 3rd working day since orders have been placed.
I can't run-test my rig before it.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyddsskor*
> 
> They will ship the orders by tomorrow only. Tomorrow will be the 3rd working day since orders have been placed.
> I can't run-test my rig before it.


Well, if it goes out tomorrow, then I won't have it till Monday. Was hoping to work on it this weekend, but that looks to not be the case, oh well.


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Well, if it goes out tomorrow, then I won't have it till Monday. Was hoping to work on it this weekend, but that looks to not be the case, oh well.


Yupe, probably the orders will reach destination by friday only
:-( :-( :-( :-(


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyddsskor*
> 
> Yupe, probably the orders will reach destination by friday only
> :-( :-( :-( :-(


Lol, not for me, I'm on pacific coast of the USA. Even if it shipped today, I would not see till Monday at the earliest I think.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Hi, I use the HAF-X though may shortly be moving to a 900D both of which involve the GPU being horizontal. I have ordered Bitspower 90 degree elbows and an adjustable adapter which has cost me an arm and a leg but the GTX 690 has been lying around for a week unused and I couldn't be bothered to wait.


I also had the 900D on my build list.....then the Enthoo Primo came out at $100 less and was more suitable and had more features suitable for a 2 x SLI build .... worked out for everybody....the 900D price came down $70 to $279 and then the Primo dropped to $220 for a while but now back up at $240 on newegg.


----------



## wermad

Went with the Blackhawk Ultra since it was cheap and supports 140mm rads. I currently have all UT60s (420, 280, & 280). Still plenty of space for my core components which weigh a ton (CPU, gpu x4, ram x2, MB x2).


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> Anybody know of any alternative mounting brackets for a D5 X-Res Top 100 CSQ? I need to get creative.


I use this, it works like a charm

UN 120MM Mount


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Can't say I'm familiar with the Blackhawk

Looking at ya load and fans .....

3930k @ 4.2 Ghz @ 1.4 v = 232 watts (130 stock)
4 x 7970s OC'd at 230 watts (203 stock) = 920 watts (812 stiock)
2 x MoBo Blocks = 40 watts (20 stock)
2 x RAM Block s= 10 watts (4 stock)
Total = 1202 watts

(1) 420 [302 watts] + (2) 280s [206 watts each] will give ya 714 watts of cooling @ 1250 rpm in push / pull .. puts ya at 59% of max load handled by the rads ....I usually aim for 60% so you shud be able to run at decent fan rpms with good fans and still maintain a delta T of about 10C.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I also had the 900D on my build list.....then the Enthoo Primo came out at $100 less and was more suitable and had more features suitable for a 2 x SLI build .... worked out for everybody....the 900D price came down $70 to $279 and then the Primo dropped to $220 for a while but now back up at $240 on newegg.


The thing is that although, as Skyddsskor said the HAF-X has "enough" space it is a also a little cramped and if I can pick up a 900D cheap on Ebay I may go for it. I just had a look at the Enthoo Primo and although it's an awesome case and cheaper than the 900D I don't like the solid side panel over the drive bays, too inflexible.


----------



## szeged

the 900D is a nice case, just a little on the small side


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> The thing is that although, as Skyddsskor said the HAF-X has "enough" space it is a also a little cramped and if I can pick up a 900D cheap on Ebay I may go for it. I just had a look at the Enthoo Primo and although it's an awesome case and cheaper than the 900D I don't like the solid side panel over the drive bays, too inflexible.


Since ya can fit a 480 Monsta behind it in push / pull, really doesn't limit anything....tho some have taken it out ...... and others took it out, cut in half and put top half back in.

However, I think it's one of the cases best features.....and one of the main reasons I chose it .... have the pump mounted behind it and between that and the res bracket, very easy to do a build with barely a hint of a cable in sight.


----------



## skupples

Slinky always links that "how to watercool ddc pumps" but who the hell makes the bottom block that we are to assume is "watercooling the pump" since he never goes into details, just links his videos every time...

@DerickWM YGPM.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the 900D is a nice case, just a little on the small side


Agree on the "just a little small side", and honestly, to me it's to expensive for the actual build quality from the one I've personally had, and the ones I've looked at also. Use to be corsair stood for a quality product, now it's just a name as far as I can tell.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Slinky always links that "how to watercool ddc pumps" but who the hell makes the bottom block that we are to assume is "watercooling the pump" since he never goes into details, just links his videos every time...
> 
> @derickwm YGPM.


hes using the EK dominator ram waterblock on the pump to have water flowing over them.


----------



## skupples

and it just happens to magically line up... interesting. Probably as useless, or more so than a chipset block.


----------



## szeged

well he also watercools the HDDs, his build is just a super over the top build and i love it even though i wouldnt personally do it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Can't say I'm familiar with the Blackhawk
> 
> Looking at ya load and fans .....
> 
> 3930k @ 4.2 Ghz @ 1.4 v = 232 watts (130 stock)
> 4 x 7970s OC'd at 230 watts (203 stock) = 920 watts (812 stiock)
> 2 x MoBo Blocks = 40 watts (20 stock)
> 2 x RAM Block s= 10 watts (4 stock)
> Total = 1202 watts
> 
> (1) 420 [302 watts] + (2) 280s [206 watts each] will give ya 714 watts of cooling @ 1250 rpm in push / pull .. puts ya at 59% of max load handled by the rads ....I usually aim for 60% so you shud be able to run at decent fan rpms with good fans and still maintain a delta T of about 10C.


Waiting on psu rma and new fittings to get some #'s


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it just happens to magically line up... interesting. Probably as useless, or more so than a chipset block.


I was wrong regarding the chipset block, I dismantled all the components and added one.
Now with the chipset block PCH Temp is 37C not 65C (@5.2GHz). 

As useless as may appear by having yours pumps colder will perform beater and don't disperse any heat on the system, my acrylic panel don't need anymore fan grills was replaced with a clear one.


----------



## skupples

Nice...

I always assumed that statement on the EK page actually meant "cools just as many things as stock heatsink" not "cools as well as stock heat sink"


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Nice...
> 
> I always assumed that statement on the EK page actually meant "cools just as many things as stock heatsink" not "cools as well as stock heat sink"


"Please note this water block cools exactly as much heat generating components as ASUS factory cooling solution"








Probably with the rig at 4.5GHz you will don't need any water block.
Read yours PCH temp (all suite 3), with waterblock will be less there 40C on extreme oc.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> well he also watercools the HDDs, his build is just a super over the top build and i love it even though i wouldnt personally do it.


This was my project start March 2013.. to build a rig and call it "best ever built". For that I was forced to do all this sɥıʇ even if is useless.
Is not the best but looks like, hope to see here something beater and change my album's name soon. You can have 4.5GHz PC Titan SLI for around 5K, why you guys should spend another 10K for 0.7GHz?







like that I will continue be one of the best







JK


----------



## Tillmander

I believe I am starting to have nickel plating corrosion and I am wondering whats the best way to go about solving it. My loop is pure distilled water with dazmode protector inside. I flushed out all of the components before use thoroughly. Here are some pics.


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> I use this, it works like a charm
> 
> UN 120MM Mount


Did you use this to mount the same res top?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tillmander*
> 
> I believe I am starting to have nickel plating corrosion and I am wondering whats the best way to go about solving it. My loop is pure distilled water with dazmode protector inside. I flushed out all of the components before use thoroughly. Here are some pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's going to be hard to tell looking @ it through the acrylic. The only way to know for sure is to remove the block, take it apart, & clean it. Nickel is highly susceptible to staining.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> Did you use this to mount the same res top?


Here is a picture of it mounted.


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Here is a picture of it mounted.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks man, very helpful. Will keep this one in mind for sure.

+1


----------



## Tillmander

Ok thanks +rep I don't have any distilled water atm so I wont drain it just yet.


----------



## rickyman0319

can I buy this EK-RES X3 250 Reservoir and connect to Apogee Drive II (mcr35x and block) ? will it works or not?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niklot1981*
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/jXw7MN


Great pic.


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> can I buy this EK-RES X3 250 Reservoir and connect to Apogee Drive II (mcr35x and block) ? will it works or not?


As long as you have the reservoir higher then the pump and you have it connected to the pump inlet it will work just fine.


----------



## rickyman0319

cool, I think I will just buy 150 verson, cause I think 250 version is too tall for SM8. is that correct or not? I am think to mount on rad ( fan , rad, fan , res).

what kind of compression fitting I need to buy for this res? can I use bitpower barb or compression for it or not?


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> cool, I think I will just buy 150 verson, cause I think 250 version is too tall for SM8. is that correct or not? I am think to mount on rad ( fan , rad, fan , res).
> 
> what kind of compression fitting I need to buy for this res? can I use bitpower barb or compression for it or not?


How bout waterblock - rad (with push-pull fan config) - reservoir - pump

I personally suggest use compression fitting. For these fitting, I use EK PSC and BP 3/8"ID 5/8"OD fitting.

Once I get EK ZMT, I will let you know the quality of the tube because most of the time I use tygoon tubing.


----------



## rickyman0319

my config is like this:

tube res - Apogee drive ii - rad w/ with push-pull fan - tube res.

my size is 1/2id 3/4 od. what mm is that?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> my config is like this:
> 
> tube res - Apogee drive ii - rad w/ with push-pull fan - tube res.
> 
> my size is 1/2id 3/4 od. what mm is that?


Works for me, but I use the Bitspower tube res since I got it cheaper from an OCN member. I would have loved the EK res though since I wouldn't have needed 90 degree fittings.



If you can't tell, my t-line is connected to my Apogee Drive II. This is just a temp setup though, since I'll be switching from a Prodigy to a Mercury S3 and I'll be adding another rad into the loop.

Edit: 1/2" ID 3/4" OD is basically 13mm/19mm.


----------



## niklot1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Great pic.


Thank you, your work inspires me ...


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> The thing is that although, as Skyddsskor said the HAF-X has "enough" space it is a also a little cramped and if I can pick up a 900D cheap on Ebay I may go for it. I just had a look at the Enthoo Primo and although it's an awesome case and cheaper than the 900D I don't like the solid side panel over the drive bays, too inflexible.


By mistake and luck, I've seen your pc in watercooling gallery.
Can you please tell me where you keep your hard drive??
Your pc is awesome.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyddsskor*
> 
> By mistake and luck, I've seen your pc in watercooling gallery.
> Can you please tell me where you keep your hard drive??
> Your pc is awesome.


Hey thanks! I removed the hot swap bay from my HAF-X and replaced it with a StarTech Trayless Adapter (picture) which houses 1 SSD and one HDD and I also have an OCZ Revodrive plugged into PCI-E slot 3. It might seem overkill to change the hot swap bay but it removes the obstructive circuit board and made it easier to mount the 200mm rad below.


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Hey thanks! I removed the hot swap bay from my HAF-X and replaced it with a StarTech Trayless Adapter (picture) which houses 1 SSD and one HDD and I also have an OCZ Revodrive plugged into PCI-E slot 3. It might seem overkill to change the hot swap bay but it removes the obstructive circuit board and made it easier to mount the 200mm rad below.


I think you keep the drives behind motherboard tray.
Thanks for the information, bro.


----------



## PinzaC55

Here's my second GTX 690 waiting to join her buddy, just need a couple of parts.


----------



## montyman03

When did EK stop putting the covers on Rad boxes?



Looks like a red headed stepchild..lol


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *montyman03*
> 
> When did EK stop putting the covers on Rad boxes?
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like a red headed stepchild..lol


I think that's just the xtx 480's that don't get the box sleeves. All of my EK rads had them except the 480xtx


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Here's my second GTX 690 waiting to join her buddy, just need a couple of parts.


It will be powerfull liquid cooled Quad-SLI that I've dreamt before I move to 3-way SLI.
You can use few setting:
1. Using EK bridge
2. Or using direct connection

Personally, I prefer direct connection because it's easier to be assemble or disassemble and you only need simple part aka one direct connection fitting and minimum two 90-degree adapters.
Just my two-cent opinion.

Btw, anybody knows whats going with EK Store?? Looks like they face problem with shipping...


----------



## King4x4

They got a lot of back orders


----------



## szeged

Boys and girls of every age, wouldnt you like to see something strange....

itsssssssssssss

corrosion.






also happening on the inside of the included fittings that came with the waterblock, pretty much all the nickle plating is gone, my supremacy nickle block is starting to show signs also =\

someone help! i need an adult!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I think that's just the xtx 480's that don't get the box sleeves. All of my EK rads had them except the 480xtx


nope, both of mine came sleeved.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Boys and girls of every age, wouldnt you like to see something strange....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> itsssssssssssss
> 
> corrosion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also happening on the inside of the included fittings that came with the waterblock, pretty much all the nickle plating is gone, my supremacy nickle block is starting to show signs also =\
> 
> someone help! i need an adult!


hrm... what was that you told me a few months back?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Boys and girls of every age, wouldnt you like to see something strange....
> 
> itsssssssssssss
> 
> corrosion.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also happening on the inside of the included fittings that came with the waterblock, pretty much all the nickle plating is gone, my supremacy nickle block is starting to show signs also =\
> 
> someone help! i need an adult!


DAyuuuum, What coolant are you using? It's time to RMA.


----------



## szeged

just distilled water and some mayhems deep red lol, other components are bitspower multilink enhance fittings and all monsta radiators.

skupples, you were supposed to forget that lol.

anyways, any help EK? what am i saying...derick probably went to sleep early in anticipation of his 290's arrival tomorrow


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> DAyuuuum, What coolant are you using? It's time to RMA.


I'm gonna guess distilled and biocide.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> just distilled water and some mayhems deep red lol, other components are bitspower multilink enhance fittings and all monsta radiators.
> 
> skupples, you were supposed to forget that lol.
> 
> anyways, any help EK? what am i saying...derick probably went to sleep early in anticipation of his 290's arrival tomorrow


You have to go through the retailer. Derick will most likely give you Peter's email. Who did you buy them from, they will take care of you.

My advice: Request full copper replacement blocks. Including that CPU.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> You have to go through the retailer. Derick will most likely give you Peter's email. Who did you buy them from, they will take care of you.
> 
> My advice: Request full copper replacement blocks. Including that CPU.


was from frozencpu, idk if theyll replace it for me since its been about 3 months since i bought it now =\

classy blocks only come in nickle also lol.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Boys and girls of every age, wouldnt you like to see something strange....
> 
> itsssssssssssss
> 
> corrosion.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also happening on the inside of the included fittings that came with the waterblock, pretty much all the nickle plating is gone, my supremacy nickle block is starting to show signs also =\
> 
> someone help! i need an adult!


My god! All of the plating has come off?? Where did it all go? Stuck in the fins? Wow...


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> was from frozencpu, idk if theyll replace it for me since its been about 3 months since i bought it now =\
> 
> classy blocks only come in nickle also lol.


Basically you contact Frozen, they will get in touch with EK, EK will Send FrozenCPU replacement blocks, then FrozenCPU will send them to you.

Based on how bad the blocks look , I would suggest asking for full replacements, not just the base plates.

EDIT: Probably a good idea if you get a few bottles of EK coolant.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> was from frozencpu, idk if theyll replace it for me since its been about 3 months since i bought it now =\
> 
> classy blocks only come in nickle also lol.


I would take them apart & clean them. Most of that stuff will likely come off. It's likely heavily stained from the red dye. I'm not saying there isn't any corrosion, i'm just saying it's probably not all corrosion.

FCPU will send you to EK.


----------



## szeged

yeah ill probably just pop open the blocks and everything, ive been wanting to re do the acrylic routing anyways, re do a few bends and all that. Gotta get some more acrylic first though lol.


----------



## Kokin

Wow it's almost as if you had a copper block instead.


----------



## Jimhans1

I've only had nickel issues with my old 580 blocks. My 680 and 780 blocks all look just fine. Of course, I stopped using straight distilled and went to Mayhems after the 580's. I'm not saying that's what caused it, but I know I've never had any corrosion or nickel flaking since.


----------



## skupples

*looks @ pictures more* the micro channels appear to be clean... I'm leaning towards 99% staining.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Just looks stained to me! Mayhems red is know for staining everything it touches!!!


----------



## rickyman0319

I am wondering if I can put mc35x pump from apogee drive II into EK-DDC X-TOP Rev 2 Plexi or not?


----------



## szeged

im guessing its mostly staining, but in person when youre looking through my loop you can very clearly see brown gunk in the tubing and in the waterblocks.

Ill tear everything down tomorrow and do a good cleaning, if its bad enough ill give fcpu a shout.


----------



## wzhaoca

Would love to hear what might have caused this corrosion. I'm about to get some EK blocks. I had read that EK has sorted out their nickel plating issues. I hope this is not still a problem. Should I just stay away from their nickle plated blocks? They do look good though


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wzhaoca*
> 
> Would love to hear what might have caused this corrosion. I'm about to get some EK blocks. I had read that EK has sorted out their nickel plating issues. I hope this is not still a problem. Should I just stay away from their nickle plated blocks? They do look good though


Just run a proper coolant with anti-corrosion properties. I'm going to bet on 90% of that coming out with a good scrubbing & polish. Mayhem's red dye, is just like any other red dye. It stains everything it touches.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering if I can put mc35x pump from apogee drive II into EK-DDC X-TOP Rev 2 Plexi or not?


It should work, but it will make your Apogee Drive II block useless. Make sure you keep a heatsink on that pump as well.


----------



## skupples

If you are going to put a heatsink on the mcp35x series pump, look @ EK's new housing for the entire pump... I ran the Swiftech heatsink on my mcp35x2 and it did very little to reduce external temps. The EK unit is a housing replacement, with built in heat sink, so it should work a bit better. It's also a much lower profile setup compared to Swiftech's heat sink.
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/ek-ddc-heatsink-cover-black.html


----------



## Kokin

^ I forgot about that housing unit. Good recommendation!

I just looked at the hi-res versions of szeged's blocks and you can see a bunch of flakes/shavings at the left side of the micro-channels

Here's a close up:


----------



## rickyman0319

I am trying to find a way to get dual loop for SM8 case.

monsoon top port - mcr220 - dual gpu block - UT60 240 - combo
bottom port - xt45 360 - ek supreme hf - combo

or dual loop

monsoon top port - mcr220 - dual gpu block - UT60 240 - combo

single bay resevior or smaller tube w/ top port go to apogee drive ii - xt45 360

which one is better?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Boys and girls of every age, wouldnt you like to see something strange....
> 
> itsssssssssssss
> 
> corrosion.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also happening on the inside of the included fittings that came with the waterblock, pretty much all the nickle plating is gone, my supremacy nickle block is starting to show signs also =\
> 
> someone help! i need an adult!
> 
> 
> 
> DAyuuuum, What coolant are you using? It's time to RMA.
Click to expand...

don't buy cheap coolant guys, and replace it any 8 to 10 months or early.
How EK blocks should look like after almost a year.. use a real coolant.
P.S. (edited) after clean them all


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> don't buy cheap coolant guys, and replace it any 8 to 10 months or early.


He was just using Distilled with Mayhem's Blood Red dye (which is known to stain), but you can see the flakes in the photos.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> don't buy cheap coolant guys, and replace it any 8 to 10 months or early.
> 
> 
> 
> He was just using Distilled with Mayhem's Blood Red dye (which is known to stain), but you can see the flakes in the photos.
Click to expand...

Time to clean them as no one will RMA old blocks.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Time to clean them as no one will RMA old blocks.


EK is normally pretty lenient with these things. They are also only a few months old, so his chances are high. They will likely ship him replacement plates.


----------



## szeged

think i bought them near the third week of november. Already had to rma them once to frozencpu because the top of this block was cracked lol.

Ill post pics tomorrow when i scrub them off.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> ^ I forgot about that housing unit. Good recommendation!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I just looked at the hi-res versions of szeged's blocks and you can see a bunch of flakes/shavings at the left side of the micro-channels
> 
> Here's a close up:


I see fibers & what looks like flaked off powder coat in that picture...



this, specially the ridge before the channels, looks like possible flaking, but it also looks like build up, from not enough biocide. we will see tomorrow.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Time to clean them as no one will RMA old blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> EK is normally pretty lenient with these things. They are also only a few months old, so his chances are high. They will likely ship him replacement plates.
Click to expand...

good to try but for me is more easy to clean them that wait for rma
distillate water works for short time and there are so much beater cooling products around there and tested for years.
That's the result for $2 vs $50 coolant.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> think i bought them near the third week of november. Already had to rma them once to frozencpu because the top of this block was cracked lol.
> 
> Ill post pics tomorrow when i scrub them off.


If you buy them recently this is only the Mayhem's Blood Red dye that you should be able to clean it up very easy.
Good night my friend you will be find







as your tubing (acrylic or not) show the same effects of Mayhem.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> good to try but for me is more easy to clean them that wait for rma
> distillate water works for short time and there are so much beater cooling products around there and tested for years.
> That's the result for $2 vs $50 coolant.


What is this high quality 50 dollar coolant you speak of?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> good to try but for me is more easy to clean them that wait for rma
> distillate water works for short time and there are so much beater cooling products around there and tested for years.
> That's the result for $2 vs $50 coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> What is this high quality 50 dollar coolant you speak of?
Click to expand...

50$ bcz probably you will use more there 2 liters and opt for non-conductive one








EDIT: P.S. the real price of distilled water per gallon is .28 cents


----------



## Anoxy

Right, but I'm asking what coolant you are specifically referring to, or perhaps what you use in your own build. I was under the impression that distilled+killcoil is the failsafe gold standard in watercooling.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Right, but I'm asking what coolant you are specifically referring to, or perhaps what you use in your own build. I was under the impression that distilled+killcoil is the failsafe gold standard in watercooling.


Not in my opinion. It's ok if that's what you want to run. But there is zero corrosion protection, and since I am pretty sure most folks here aren't using an autoclave to sterilize every part of their liquid loop, the distilled will start to take on an electrical charge (either positive or negative) just from running through the system, and then it can and will start to corrode things. Sure, the killcoil will help keep biological growth down, but nothing is protecting the metals from corrosion.


----------



## Anoxy

Hmm, alright. I guess I'll bring it up tomorrow in the watercooling club thread. Don't want to derail the EK club.

There are lots of non conductive coolants out there.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Hmm, alright. I guess I'll bring it up tomorrow in the watercooling club thread. Don't want to derail the EK club.
> 
> There are lots of non conductive coolants out there.


If you put your system together correctly, and use good components, non-conductive isn't necessary really. Sure, if you are a noob it might be something to recommend, but most people on the OCN are doing a 12-24hr leak test prior to actually powering on their systems, I know I do, especially after the hydro copper/swiftech issue I had a couple years back.

If your a bumbling fool, then non-conductive coolant is a good thing to run in your system, as it will probably leak everywhere in your system, but a builder that knows what their doing doesn't. Just my opinion.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Hmm, alright. I guess I'll bring it up tomorrow in the watercooling club thread. Don't want to derail the EK club.
> 
> There are lots of non conductive coolants out there.


I use 5 Liters of Feser One F1 Cooling Fluid with Yellow UV Fuse dye + Primochill Intensity UV Green + Aguacomputer Glow Motion yellow. When the rig is shut down (weekends) is still glowing








I replace fluid any 4 months because my extreme use.
This non-conductive fluid saved my 4 titans and all other components. My rig was a tank fish in less there 3 second (250L/h flow).








Edit: If someone say you non-conductive fluid is unnecessary, ask him to show you his rig


----------



## Kokin

Mayhem's Pastel, X1, and XT-1 coolants have additives and inhibitors already included, so they are a great alternative to the EK coolants.

Running distilled + Mayhem's Blue dye did not affect my EK FC-7950 copper/plexi block, though the dye did stain the copper slightly (easily came off though).


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Hmm, alright. I guess I'll bring it up tomorrow in the watercooling club thread. Don't want to derail the EK club.
> 
> There are lots of non conductive coolants out there.
> 
> 
> 
> I use 5 Liters of Feser One F1 Cooling Fluid with Yellow UV Fuse dye + Primochill Intensity UV Green + Aguacomputer Glow Motion yellow. When the rig is shut down (weekends) is still glowing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I replace fluid any 4 months because my extreme use.
> This non-conductive fluid saved my 4 titans and all other components. My rig was a tank fish in less there 3 second (250L/h flow).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: If someone say you non-conductive fluid is unnecessary, ask him to show you his rig
Click to expand...

Also the use of killcoil will destroy all your nickel plate blocks.


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Personally I use distilled with PrimoChill Liquid Utopia Bomb.

Has anti corrosives, biocide, and no dye.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> *looks @ pictures more* the micro channels appear to be clean... I'm leaning towards 99% staining.


Yup. That doesn't look like the nickel is coming off.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

hey guys, quick question

im about to upgrade from a gtx 670 with an ek csq block to a reference 780 and a titan block.

i heard some things about primochill ghost fittings and how the threads are too long for the newer blocks, and a spacer that EK provides has to be used. has anyone use them? would i be better off picking up some different spacers from say bitspower, or are the ek provided ones ok?

thanks gang.


----------



## lowfat

You don't need the spacers. I use the Primochill fittings on a Titan SE block w/o them.


----------



## erayser

Same here... I use Primochill Revolver fittings on my EK-FC GTX Titan/780 blocks without spacers.


----------



## WhoKnew22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Also the use of killcoil will destroy all your nickel plate blocks.


Well now you all have me worried. I run three copper blocks and two copper rads, but the EK plug fittings on my res and GPU Bridge Link I think are nickel plated.

Will the distilled and killcoil cause any harm to the rest of the loop? I really don't care if the stop fittings are stripped of plating.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You don't need the spacers. I use the Primochill fittings on a Titan SE block w/o them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Same here... I use Primochill Revolver fittings on my EK-FC GTX Titan/780 blocks without spacers.


awesome, thanks for the help guys. as usual, u guys rule.


----------



## jeanspaulo

Hello guys, I need some help. I have a Asus HD7970 DCU II T and EK Block for it , my doubt is abou using CLU with it, theres some problem to use CLU on the mounting of the EK Block ? Or its a good idea to use it? Or another TIN like Gelid Extreme its better?

Thanks


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> They got a lot of back orders


I've placed two orders at same day.
The last order has been shipped and the first one is still processing.
Nice joke, EK Store


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyddsskor*
> 
> I've placed two orders at same day.
> The last order has been shipped and the first one is still processing.
> Nice joke, EK Store


I got my extra 580 blocks today!!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I got my extra 580 blocks today!!


nice









going to break my loop down today in an hour or so and scrub my blocks and see if it was just mostly staining or if it really needs to be sent to waterblock heaven lol.


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I got my extra 580 blocks today!!


My blocks are not shipped yet.
I have 2 unused GTX 580 lying around, here. At least my G1/4 plug is on the way, so I can test my loop.

PS: The order contain G1/4 plug isn't sent yet.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I got my extra 580 blocks today!!










woot, woot! You found all the blocks then?


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> woot, woot! You found all the blocks then?


Still available few blocks in EK Store. Have a look man..


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhoKnew22*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Also the use of killcoil will destroy all your nickel plate blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well now you all have me worried. I run three copper blocks and two copper rads, but the EK plug fittings on my res and GPU Bridge Link I think are nickel plated.
> 
> Will the distilled and killcoil cause any harm to the rest of the loop? I really don't care if the stop fittings are stripped of plating.
Click to expand...

Do not use silver with nickel in the same system. Also do not use aluminum with bare (unplated) copper or bare (unplated) brass in the same system.


----------



## szeged

I dont think i have any silver in my loop, but ill double check when i take the rig apart today.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyddsskor*
> 
> Still available few blocks in EK Store. Have a look man..


Direct question to him since we were working together to find them used







. We found a few sources though most of them were dead ends or overpriced. He did mentioned going new from EK directly as a last resort.


----------



## WhoKnew22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Do not use silver with nickel in the same system. Also do not use aluminum with bare (unplated) copper or bare (unplated) brass in the same system.


I know, but where I don't care about the plating on two stop fittings, is that the only danger to the loop?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> woot, woot! You found all the blocks then?


I did sir, and brand spanking new for like $60ea, lol, BEFORE shipping, came from EK direct.









And thanks again for all the help Mad, I do really appreciate it, a true friend, although I've yet ta meet ya!! And, instead of spending the time trying to find more EK backplates (unobtanium apparently), I ordered some from coldzero.eu


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I did sir, and brand spanking new for like $60ea, lol, BEFORE shipping, came from EK direct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And thanks again for all the help Mad, I do really appreciate it, a true friend, although I've yet ta meet ya!! And, instead of spending the time trying to find more EK backplates (unobtanium apparently), I ordered some from coldzero.eu


Schweets







. You can also go w/ EVGA backplates. They just need some slight mods and/or longer screws. I did them for my old 580s (HK blocks).


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Do not use silver with nickel in the same system. Also do not use aluminum with bare (unplated) copper or bare (unplated) brass in the same system.


Hmm, my CPU block is nickel-plated copper and I have a silver killcoil in my loop. I'm also planning on getting nickel-coated brass fittings. Guess I should look at some coolant.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Hmm, my CPU block is nickel-plated copper and I have a silver killcoil in my loop. I'm also planning on getting nickel-coated brass fittings. Guess I should look at some coolant.


I would recommend Mayhem's X1 line (not XT-1)

Definitely get the kill coil out, & some proper anti-corrosion coolant in ASAP. The X1 coolant also sports biocide, & surfactant.

The silver + Distilled water is fine in theory, but this is real life. Like was said above, none of us are building our systems in a sterilized environment with autoclaves.


----------



## Anoxy

Alright, thanks man. I'll order some clear X1 asap for my re-build.


----------



## wermad

I run naked di when ever i have EK nickel blocks in my loop.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I dont think i have any silver in my loop, but ill double check when i take the rig apart today.


My ENTIRE base of the CPU block is 0.925 silver and don't have any nickel plate problem after a year of use. I believe the problem apply only to .999 silver but I am not sure. A good coolant always help with all those metal-mixtures.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I run naked di when ever i have EK nickel blocks in my loop.


I use X1 or Pastel with my EK nickel blocks now. They stay so pretty!!


----------



## Malik




----------



## WhoKnew22

I still haven't seen a clear issue though with the silver and nickel, is deplating the only threat? If so, can that harm the rest of the loop?


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

I can't imagine that having small flakes of nickel moving around your loop would be a good thing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice polish








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhoKnew22*
> 
> I still haven't seen a clear issue though with the silver and nickel, is deplating the only threat? If so, can that harm the rest of the loop?


I had several blocks failed on me in 2011 and it was massive nickel flaking. It never once damaged anything in my loop so there's no real danger if your nickel breaks down in your loop







.


----------



## WhoKnew22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice polish
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had several blocks failed on me in 2011 and it was massive nickel flaking. It never once damaged anything in my loop so there's no real danger if your nickel breaks down in your loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


That is what I was assuming, it's two stop fittings so I'm not going to worry about it, will be interesting next drain cycle to see what they look like though


----------



## szeged

gonna have to wait till monday to break down the loop and clean, PPC's doesnt have any gelid extreme in stock and theyre the only ones that can get me stuff same/next day without charging an arm and a leg for it lol. oh well, its not gonna kill me to wait.....i hope.









now the question of should i get some mayhems X1 blood red, or mix my own and hope my water PH level doesnt eat the dye again lol. it ate the red out of the dye and made my tubes look like sewer lines last time i used it lol.


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> gonna have to wait till monday to break down the loop and clean, PPC's doesnt have any gelid extreme in stock and theyre the only ones that can get me stuff same/next day without charging an arm and a leg for it lol. oh well, its not gonna kill me to wait.....i hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now the question of should i get some mayhems X1 blood red, or mix my own and hope my water PH level doesnt eat the dye again lol. it ate the red out of the dye and made my tubes look like sewer lines last time i used it lol.


Waiting time is one of the arts of liquid cooling, lol.
About tubing, maybe you can consider black tube??


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyddsskor*
> 
> Waiting time is one of the arts of liquid cooling, lol.
> About tubing, maybe you can consider black tube??


it has to be clear acrylic =\ maybe if i went with primochill, but i can only use e22, or any other acrylic thats 10/12mm


----------



## VSG

Definitely Mayhems X1 blood red


----------



## szeged

only bad thing about having to take everything apart to clean it is my front rad is so big i cant take it out of the case without actually taking the sth10 front panel assembly completely apart lol.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> only bad thing about having to take everything apart to clean it is my front rad is so big i cant take it out of the case without actually taking the sth10 front panel assembly completely apart lol.


I hate loop disassembly the most. I spent 3 hours earlier just to drain and take my "small" loop apart. The good part was being able to get my CPU out and successfully delid it.









Anyway, best of luck to your blocks. I hope it's just staining.


----------



## szeged

with any luck its just 90% staining 10% flaking, if it is nickle actually flaking off like i suspect, i know someone in town who can replate them for me


----------



## Jakusonfire

I can't see any corrosion, just normal staining and wear and tear. A good anti corrosion agent will help minimise both but it happens to all blocks. Nickel or not.






The close up images of flakes in micro channels look far too thick to be Nickel and are more likely just pieces of Acetal or paint.

Trying to diagnose anything before even a basic rinsing is an exercise in futility though. Especially if any sort of dye has been used.


----------



## szeged

ill give it a good rinse and get some high detail close up pictures to share with everyone so you guys can help see if its problematic, but for now im gonna just chill with it like it is and be patient with it before i go and rma anything.

If i rma it and it turns out its fine, ill look like a dbag for costing EK/FCPU money when it wasnt anything lol.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

http://www.ekwb.com/news/460/19/EK-introduces-ASUS-R9-280X-DirectCU-II-water-block/








hopefully the 290 comes soon.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I can't see any corrosion, just normal staining and wear and tear. A good anti corrosion agent will help minimise both but it happens to all blocks. Nickel or not.
> 
> The close up images of flakes in micro channels look far too thick to be Nickel and are more likely just pieces of Acetal or paint.
> 
> Trying to diagnose anything before even a basic rinsing is an exercise in futility though. Especially if any sort of dye has been used.


If the flakes were pure Nickel they would be magnetic so they would respond to a magnet even through the plastic.


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> If the flakes were pure Nickel they would be magnetic so they would respond to a magnet even through the plastic.


One thing that disturb me about HAF-X is cables from upper front panel (E-SATA, USB 3.0, etc)
Where do you keep these cable??
Do you remove them??


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> If the flakes were pure Nickel they would be magnetic so they would respond to a magnet even through the plastic.


Actually, pure nickel has zero iron in it, so it would NOT react to a magnet.


----------



## skupples

The nickel also tends to disintegrate. It doesn't really come off in big fish flakes & float around in your loop. @Least, not in my experience.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Actually, pure nickel has zero iron in it, so it would NOT react to a magnet.


Metals don't have to be ferrous (contain Iron) to be affected by magnets. Nickel is ferromagnetic so it will react to magnets and can be magnetised.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Metals don't have to be ferrous (contain Iron) to be affected by magnets. Nickel is ferromagnetic so it will react to magnets and can be magnetised.


That's correct for Nickel alloys, but pure Nickel is not magnetically conductive.


----------



## Jakusonfire

"Nickel is one of four elements that are ferromagnetic around room temperature, the others being iron, cobalt and gadolinium."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel


----------



## szeged

found some more thermal paste in my desk so i wont be waiting till mon/tues to break down the loop and clean it, ill do it today instead, ill take lots of pics


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> found some more thermal paste in my desk so i wont be waiting till mon/tues to break down the loop and clean it, ill do it today instead, ill take lots of pics


Looking forward to them. I have two Nickel blocks on my GPU's for the first time (All my previous blocks, and current CPU block, were copper) and it worries me.


----------



## szeged

ill also be making a video of it, i dont know how well it will turn out because of my lighting situation atm, but ill try.

Making the video because i have someone interested in buying a few components from me because im thinking of trading in selling the sth10 for the s8


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Looking forward to them. I have two Nickel blocks on my GPU's for the first time (All my previous blocks, and current CPU block, were copper) and it worries me.


Use anti-corrosive coolant - win.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Use anti-corrosive coolant - win.


I believe Mayhems Pastel White has anti-corrosive stuff in it.


----------



## szeged

On my phone atm, looking in my loop, it's a gross hot mess. This is gonna take longer than o expected to clean rofl.


----------



## VSG

The fluid you mean?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The fluid you mean?


The Fluid is gross and the ek blocks amd included fittings that ek sent with the gpu block are just a disaster atm. Going to give all my fittings rads pump and blocks a nice hot bath lol. Gonna try to clean the acrylic tuning but iight have to just rebend some.


----------



## VSG

I really hope that this was a result of dye decomposing due to non-neutral pH than corrosion.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> The Fluid is gross and the ek blocks amd included fittings that ek sent with the gpu block are just a disaster atm. Going to give all my fittings rads pump and blocks a nice hot bath lol. Gonna try to clean the acrylic tuning but iight have to just rebend some.


Make pictures of before the cleanup too!


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Actually, pure nickel has zero iron in it, so it would NOT react to a magnet.


Sorry.
Wikipedia page for Nickel "Nickel is a silvery-white metal with a slight golden tinge that takes a high polish. It is one of only four elements that are magnetic at or near room temperature, the others being iron, cobalt and gadolinium."


----------



## ozzy1925

I checked my new waterblocks out of the box and saw black dots on them




i use wet sponge applied some pressure and dried with microfiber towel they look ok now


should i be worried?


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Did you use tap water to clean them? If so, clean the block off with some iso alcohol before you put it on your GPU.


----------



## ozzy1925

yea, i used tap water,why should i use isopropyl?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> yea, i used tap water,why should i use isopropyl?


I wouldn't do it. If alcohol touches the plexi top you may damage it.


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Forgot about the plexi top, of course if you're careful and use a qtip you'll be fine.

Iso will help clean any gunk and leftover minerals from the tap water, along with any oils from your hands. It also works great for dissolving TIM, for future reference.


----------



## skupples

I wouldn't be worried. Blocks show up all the time with gunk left over from the milling process.


----------



## ozzy1925

I will install these blocks on my cards 1-2 months later.Is it ok if i use isopropyl then.Also will the tap water i used for cleaning affect the nickel plating till that time?


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

You'll probably be fine, I'm always just super OCD about cleaning everything before installation.


----------



## szeged

cleaning the nickle block now

90% staining

cant tell if algae built up in my loop or if that was some gunk from the rads that never got fully dislodged before

got some stains that wont come off. might try some vinegar, using soap mixed with oxy clean atm and the girlfrinds toothbrush...cuz i dont wanna use mine


----------



## VSG

That's a relief for me as well! Let me know how the other 10% goes. Pics would be well appreciated


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> cleaning the nickle block now
> 
> 90% staining
> 
> cant tell if algae built up in my loop or if that was some gunk from the rads that never got fully dislodged before
> 
> got some stains that wont come off. might try some vinegar, using soap mixed with oxy clean atm and the girlfrinds toothbrush...cuz i dont wanna use mine


Try using a metal polish.


----------



## Sluggo

Anybody have any experience with this: http://www.microcenter.com/product/396495/Liquid_Cooling_Water_Clear_Coolant_700mL

Is it anti-corrosive?


----------



## USFORCES

What did you guys do to keep the 15x1mm o-ring in place while you were installing the bridge to the blocks?
Mine keep wanting to pop out before I get a chance to install the block.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> Anybody have any experience with this: http://www.microcenter.com/product/396495/Liquid_Cooling_Water_Clear_Coolant_700mL
> 
> Is it anti-corrosive?


I'd just use the Mayhems X-1 clear personally. And the X-1 is cheaper, as the concentrate makes 2 liters. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17718/ex-liq-298/Mayhems_X1_Coolant_Concentrate_-_250mL_-_Clear.html


----------



## szeged

some pictures of the nickle block after some soap/oxyclean and a toothbrush scrubbing














Still gotta soak it in vinegar for a few hours to try to get those stuck on stains off.


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I'd just use the Mayhems X-1 clear personally. And the X-1 is cheaper, as the concentrate makes 2 liters. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17718/ex-liq-298/Mayhems_X1_Coolant_Concentrate_-_250mL_-_Clear.html


Gotcha, but Microcenter is 10 minutes away from me and they have it in stock. That's why I was asking.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> cleaning the nickle block now
> 
> 90% staining
> 
> cant tell if algae built up in my loop or if that was some gunk from the rads that never got fully dislodged before
> 
> got some stains that wont come off. might try some vinegar, using soap mixed with oxy clean atm and the girlfrinds toothbrush...cuz i dont wanna use mine


I can't believe no one even commented on how messed up this is....


----------



## p33k

Just wanted to say I really love EK products! Changed out a bunch of my xspc to ek


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> What did you guys do to keep the 15x1mm o-ring in place while you were installing the bridge to the blocks?
> Mine keep wanting to pop out before I get a chance to install the block.


Probably you get wrong size of O-ring.
When I want to install the links and bridge for GTX 580s, it happen with me. When the O-rings go to proper place, it won't be pop out.


----------



## Sluggo

I've been thinking about how to connect my EK Classy blocks. Any thoughts on whether I should go serial or parallel? Was also contemplating using a bridge or just connecting via the same acrylic tubing that I'm using for the rest of the loops. One thing I hate is when the vgas sag when sitting on a vertical mobo. Does a bridge help prevent this?


----------



## rickyman0319

now I need to buy a 280x gpu block? which one from ekwb?


----------



## King4x4

EK Delivered on their RMA!

Just got a replacement top for my RIVBE Mosfet block









Time to start working again on the blocks


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyddsskor*
> 
> Probably you get wrong size of O-ring.
> When I want to install the links and bridge for GTX 580s, it happen with me. When the O-rings go to proper place, it won't be pop out.


They are the right ones because they came out when I took the classy blocks apart, oh by the way I got my classy blocks today


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> some pictures of the nickle block after some soap/oxyclean and a toothbrush scrubbing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still gotta soak it in vinegar for a few hours to try to get those stuck on stains off.


That doesn't look like it turned out too bad in the end.
The photos you posted the other day were horrifying!

Have you come to a conclusion as to what caused the issues you faced?


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Just wanted to say I really love EK products! Changed out a bunch of my xspc to ek
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great, p33k! What case is that?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> some pictures of the nickle block after some soap/oxyclean and a toothbrush scrubbing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still gotta soak it in vinegar for a few hours to try to get those stuck on stains off.


Looks pretty damn flawless. Most of my corrosion was where the top met the block. Could feel it with my finger after heavy cleaning..

how exactly does water get into that rear VRM channel? Are there ports for it in the top?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> They are the right ones because they came out when I took the classy blocks apart, oh by the way I got my classy blocks today


I use hot water when ever they give me issues. I have also found bending them with your fingers helps. Just smush them between your fingers and "crease" the edges.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> That doesn't look like it turned out too bad in the end.
> The photos you posted the other day were horrifying!
> 
> Have you come to a conclusion as to what caused the issues you faced?


not 100% sure yet, i still have to break apart the rest of the loop to clean it, but it looks like its either algae or gunk from the radiators, if its algae that means my biocide extreme is not doing its job









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Looks pretty damn flawless. Most of my corrosion was where the top met the block. Could feel it with my finger after heavy cleaning..
> 
> how exactly does water get into that rear VRM channel? Are there ports for it in the top?


yeah so far no actual corrosion or flaking, just heavy staining that im trying to get rid of. Going to let the block sit in some distilled vinegar and water mix overnight, hopefully i dont wake up to the vinegar eating the nickle away









The water flows across the metal cover on the waterblock to get to the back water channel, ill show some pics of how it works in the morning when i get to that part of the cleaning.


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> Looks great, p33k! What case is that?


Thanks! It's a Switch 810

Kinda wanting a new case but they are super expensive here in Korea, ugh...


----------



## szeged

looking at my block atm and noticed it does look like some of the nickle has gotten dull and a darker color, not exactly corroded or anything, but its a hazy color now, the part of the block that comes in contact with water definitely isnt as shiny as the non water channel nickle =\

decided to start putting the block back together now because i think its about as clean as its gonna get

@ whoever designed these magical expanding O rings


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## montyman03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> What did you guys do to keep the 15x1mm o-ring in place while you were installing the bridge to the blocks?
> Mine keep wanting to pop out before I get a chance to install the block.


Use some lube like this

http://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Vacuum-Lubricant-5-3oz/dp/B001UHMNW0

or try the DazMode method and throw it in the freezer for a couple minutes with that acrylic piece holding the o-rings in place.


----------



## niklot1981

__
https://flic.kr/p/k8Rt3P


__
https://flic.kr/p/k8URB2


----------



## szeged

great pics


----------



## niklot1981

__
https://flic.kr/p/k91yQp


__
https://flic.kr/p/k91MKc


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> some pictures of the nickle block after some soap/oxyclean and a toothbrush scrubbing
> 
> Still gotta soak it in vinegar for a few hours to try to get those stuck on stains off.


Use a polish not vinegar.


----------



## szeged

Which polish do you suggest?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Which polish do you suggest?


this


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Which polish do you suggest?


Autosol. Really good stuff.


----------



## szeged

I think the gpu block is just stained but I think the cpu block is experiencing early stages of corrosion. Got it all cleaned off atm and it's definitely not staining. Not at home atm but when I get back I'll post pics. Any more cleaning and I think I'll be hitting copper


----------



## szeged

cpu block before and after

















doubt im gonna get the rest of that off =\


----------



## USFORCES

What the heck are you running in your loop? All I use is Distilled or RO water with a capfull of zexrex super-coolant or a capfull of antifreeze and mine stay spotless, every 6-9 months I flush out the system but that's it.

This EK nickel 480 block was ran for 2yrs strait,


This block was ran for 3yrs,


----------



## szeged

Distilled biocide.extreme and mayhems deep red, nothing else =/


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Distilled biocide.extreme and mayhems deep red, nothing else =/


Your CPU plate looks allot like mine did, though you could see exposed copper in quite a few places. The main place being the IN port, & around the seems. I how ever didn't have any of those splotches. It cleaned up pretty well though! Gave it the tooth brush, polished the hell out of it, & sold it for 40$ in the market place. The buyer seems to be satisfied, & it should run like new since the channels are all clear.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Distilled biocide.extreme and mayhems deep red, nothing else =/


Biocide extreme is based on copper sulphate solution, how much did you use exactly? EK recommends 1 drop per litre.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Biocide extreme is based on copper sulphate solution, how much did you use exactly? EK recommends 1 drop per litre.


about two drops, possibly three. but my loop is huge, it easily handles 2 litres lol.


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> What the heck are you running in your loop? All I use is Distilled or RO water with a capfull of zexrex super-coolant or a capfull of antifreeze and mine stay spotless, every 6-9 months I flush out the system but that's it.
> 
> This EK nickel 480 block was ran for 2yrs strait,
> 
> 
> This block was ran for 3yrs,


It's absolutely awesome waterblock...
if I only use distilled water, maybe year after year, it will stay same, right..


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> about two drops, possibly three. but my loop is huge, it easily handles 2 litres lol.


Okay, that's cool


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Finally got my EK nickel and plexi waterblock installed on my 7990 and it looks amazing, can't wait to get it into the system and see how it looks with coolant in it


----------



## King4x4

Most sexiest of waterblocks indeed!

Sad news today... xt rads are EOL!


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Most sexiest of waterblocks indeed!
> 
> Sad news today... xt rads are EOL!


shame the 7990s are being phased out. Sad times those were good rads


----------



## wermad

New tube and size. Its providing less strain on the components. Well, its more like no strain







. It almost resembles acrylic tube (size tubular dimensions).


----------



## Lynkdev

I currently have the EK Clean CSQ cpu block with J3 jetplate installed and im wondering if anyone else here has bubbles forming over time? ive bled my loop for 24 hours. After about 8 hours i have a small bubble in the block just hanging there and im thinking its due to the jet plate maybe?


----------



## wermad

It may take a few days for all the micro bubbles to make their way out. Good tip: shake your rig (make sure its sealed first). This will clump up the smaller bubbles enough were the flow pushes them out of the tight spots like blocks.


----------



## Archea47

Flipped the EK Supremacy CPU block 90* yesterday as I think it was suggested here (not sure if vertical meant the ports or the inner channel). Still curious if I interpreted it right

I like how the copper block matches my copper ramsinks ... probably should have sanded the plexi clear. It's vital I leave more stuff to do though


----------



## wermad

Did your temps drop? I've been suggested (having known this for a while now since Stren's 2012 round up review) but its only a few to a fraction of a degree where it wouldn't really matter to me. I rather have it plumbed properly and sacrifice a very minute difference in temps.


----------



## Lynkdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It may take a few days for all the micro bubbles to make their way out. Good tip: shake your rig (make sure its sealed first). This will clump up the smaller bubbles enough were the flow pushes them out of the tight spots like blocks.


Thanks,

Yeah, i need to redo my loop anyways as i have my outlet from the GPU going to the D5 pumptop where the res is sitting on instead of the top of the res itself..doh


----------



## wermad

Order doesn't really matter. Though having the res before the pump is ideal in order to fill your loop and avoid running your pump dry.


----------



## szeged

Picked up some blue magic metal polish from O'Reilly today, hope it doesn't make things worse lol. Also had to get some acrylic polish and scratch remover for my sth10 window because a certain cat can't knock everything over he sees


----------



## Lynkdev

Yea, it would help greatly with bleading


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Did your temps drop? I've been suggested (having known this for a while now since Stren's 2012 round up review) but its only a few to a fraction of a degree where it wouldn't really matter to me. I rather have it plumbed properly and sacrifice a very minute difference in temps.


Hard to tell - peak core temp dropped 2.6*C on the spike and 3.5*C average with my 5.0GHz bios profile I use for temp testing with but I also added a 120mm ST30 with a little 120x15mm fan and changed the loop order. All said and done the system does well - keeps my core and VRM temps both around 48*C max @ 5.0GHz on a FX-8350 running IBT AVX (max)

I should have only made one change at a time but I can only handle so much downtime









EDIT: FYI that's with all my fans (except whatever the new PWM is doing) at 100%, and the UT60 fans are 3000RPM GTs


----------



## Lynkdev

Taking my system down for modding feels like building a whole new one. Sometimes I get carried away all week with it but have no urge to rush since I have my phone lol


----------



## lddsys

Hello
My FX-8350 is nearly 60C under 100% load with water cooling. (EK Supreme HF - have a look at my build). Overclocked to 4,7 Ghz @ 1,54V. Is this a good result? The water isn't so hot and my GTs are on nearly 60%.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hard to tell - peak core temp dropped 2.6*C on the spike and 3.5*C average with my 5.0GHz bios profile I use for temp testing with but I also added a 120mm ST30 with a little 120x15mm fan and changed the loop order. All said and done the system does well - keeps my core and VRM temps both around 48*C max @ 5.0GHz on a FX-8350 running IBT AVX (max)
> 
> I should have only made one change at a time but I can only handle so much downtime
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: FYI that's with all my fans (except whatever the new PWM is doing) at 100%, and the UT60 fans are 3000RPM GTs


How do you tolerate the noise?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lddsys*
> 
> Hello
> My FX-8350 is nearly 60C under 100% load with water cooling. (EK Supreme HF - have a look at my build). Overclocked to 4,7 Ghz @ 1,54V. Is this a good result? The water isn't so hot and my GTs are on nearly 60%.
> How do you tolerate the noise?


Hey lddsys,

Your system is pretty similar to mine and I don't think you should need that much vcore for 4.7 - though every chip is different. 1.54 got me to 4.9GHz - you might try setting your ram timing and voltages manually and bump the ram voltage down a click or two to lighten the load on the IMC in the 8350 (unless you're overclocking the RAM). Play with your CPU/NB (IME my performance suffers in IBT AVX under 2400, saw no reliable improvement above that with dual channel DDR3 1600) too - you might have to raise the voltage but I would experiment getting the lowest stable voltage on that too

I saw a big improvement by lapping (sanding flat and smooth) my 8350 and switching to Gelid GC extreme.. Like 10*C improvement. I also found I get a little colder using as little TIM as possible - with the Gelid you have to heat it up (I use a bag in hot water) to spread such a small amount

Whether what you have going is a good result is entirely dependent on your success criteria. It sounds like being quiet is a requirement for you. So you've attained significantly higher performance than stock while retaining the quiet factor - that's a good result

Personally I work in a datacenter and have been a hobbyist racecar mechanic for over a decade so I have a pretty high tolerance for noise. In the DC at work you have to yell at someone 10 feet away for them to hear, so in comparison my PC isn't very loud


----------



## szeged

hey guys, whats your thoughts on reusing thermal pads? atm i am reusing some reused pads on my 780 kingpin block, they arent ripped or anything but they are getting a bit of wear to them, time to let them go or think its safe? Will i see any temp increase? if so ill grab some of the fujipoly extreme pads.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hey guys, whats your thoughts on reusing thermal pads? atm i am reusing some reused pads on my 780 kingpin block, they arent ripped or anything but they are getting a bit of wear to them, time to let them go or think its safe? Will i see any temp increase? if so ill grab some of the fujipoly extreme pads.


i use any pieces left over that are in good shape and only replace damaged ones. I haven't had issues


----------



## szeged

good to hear, none of them are damaged, just a little dry now lol.


----------



## VSG

I have only used the Fujipoly pads so far and they are malleable in that they can be shaped back together if torn. That helps also when you realize you have 2 bits of pads that can be joined together to make enough to cover a memory chip









If you had TIM on those pads, it would make things harder- again from personal experience. Honestly, I would go get the Fujipoly pads just for the VRMs alone- they work great and don't need any TIM.


----------



## derickwm

Hey @szeged

I was told to tell you that it looks like red algae, similar to corrosion but appears in a stationary state. Yeah.

Sorry guys I"ve been away for so long. Been dealing with this LDC crap and haven't had much other time. If you have any other questions let me know.


----------



## szeged

Thanks derick, any suggestions on getting it cleaned off? I gave it good bath with hot water and soap and a tiny dip in diluted vinegar, still got a little left that refuses to budge. If it won't harm anything though I might just leave it be since I got the blocks reassembled and on the gpu and cpu again lol.

Hopefully soon we bring lucid dream scamputers to justice and we don't have to worry about this anymore.


----------



## Kokin

Hope you guys get that sorted or at least have him put to jail for the BS he put you guys through. Best of luck!


----------



## szeged

the EK 780 classy waterblock in its natural habitat -


----------



## Jakusonfire

Great to see the new D5 cover system. I like it better than the screw on type.
Only thing, I would have preferred to see an open back or separate parts so my USB pumps would fit.




Any plans for a dual pump version? I just bought a D5 dual system and was dreading the thought of a new version coming out now.


----------



## lddsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey lddsys,
> 
> Your system is pretty similar to mine and I don't think you should need that much vcore for 4.7 - though every chip is different. 1.54 got me to 4.9GHz - you might try setting your ram timing and voltages manually and bump the ram voltage down a click or two to lighten the load on the IMC in the 8350 (unless you're overclocking the RAM). Play with your CPU/NB (IME my performance suffers in IBT AVX under 2400, saw no reliable improvement above that with dual channel DDR3 1600) too - you might have to raise the voltage but I would experiment getting the lowest stable voltage on that too
> 
> I saw a big improvement by lapping (sanding flat and smooth) my 8350 and switching to Gelid GC extreme.. Like 10*C improvement. I also found I get a little colder using as little TIM as possible - with the Gelid you have to heat it up (I use a bag in hot water) to spread such a small amount
> 
> Whether what you have going is a good result is entirely dependent on your success criteria. It sounds like being quiet is a requirement for you. So you've attained significantly higher performance than stock while retaining the quiet factor - that's a good result
> 
> Personally I work in a datacenter and have been a hobbyist racecar mechanic for over a decade so I have a pretty high tolerance for noise. In the DC at work you have to yell at someone 10 feet away for them to hear, so in comparison my PC isn't very loud


Hello
Thanks for your reply.

Actually I'm overclocking the RAM too, my Kingston HyperX 2x8GB is now running on 2133 Mhz with the "stock" XMP profile. If you need I'll write down the timings. Maybe it's a placebo effect but I think my system is faster with the overclocked RAM. I don't think I can manage the tweaking because when I changed the timings or the voltage my system won't boot.... I'm not saying this is impossible, but I couldn't.

Now I'm using ARCTIC MX-2 Thermal Paste on my 8350. I though this is a decent one, but maybe not. Gelid GC is not available in my country I think (at least I couldn't find it).

Yes I think the vcore is too high, but If I drop it one level prime workers fail. That was the question: am I doing something wrong? Because I read the comments and I found out people can go higher with lower vcore. But I couldn't. Maybe I did something wrong but maybe this is the limit of my setup (hardware). I tweaked the CPU/NB to 1.3 without it the system won't start. So this is a good result, but good enough? If the heat is too much I won't push it forward bacause of the sound. (Note to self: maybe there is some air in the radiator...)

About the datacenter thing, I find it really interesting, but after I read the noise part I don't know If I wanna work in a datacenter ever (sorry, lol). Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying your job is bad or something! But I got your point, your expectations is quite different than mine, thats ok. I live in a quiet area and I'm hearing every little noise and it bugs me (and personally I've found my PC so loud but I think I can live with it) This is a pretty annoying habit but can't do anything about it. Maybe I have to destroy my hearing (with loud music). Or with making some background noise somehow.


----------



## stren

dat impact:


----------



## LaBestiaHumana




----------



## Anoxy

Hey guys, I'll be removing my EK Titan SE blocks from my 780s soon, and i'd like to replace the thermal pads as well. However, I can't remember which thickness I need for my cards. Can anyone remind me?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Hey guys, I'll be removing my EK Titan SE blocks from my 780s soon, and i'd like to replace the thermal pads as well. However, I can't remember which thickness I need for my cards. Can anyone remind me?


Here is the link to the owners manual, it has them listed. http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868324.pdf


----------



## rncshow

Here's a shot of my EK Supremacy clean full copper. It's my first attempt at water cooling but I've been really happy with the results. My 2700k @ 4.8ghz gets up to 65 degrees celcius after 12 hrs of prime w/ AVX.


----------



## PinzaC55

2 x FC690's


----------



## Malik




----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*


So yummy. I wish I got this for my board. Sexy stuff indeed.


----------



## friskiest

Just received two copper fc titan blocks from a friend who had left them with stagnant coolant in them for quite a while.

They were a bit stained so I opened them up and started to clean them.

Cleaned them up pretty well, and was ready to close them back up when the gasket all of a sudden seemed way too large to fit the grooved outline of the block.

This is the case for both blocks - the gasket seems to have magically grown 5-7mm since i pulled them out of their groove. I did not pull on them, literally just pinched the side and it slid out of the block.

I've tried cooling them down with ice - still a no go.

I know I can purchase new gaskets from frozen, but that is my last resort.

Anyone got any tips for a frustrated me?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Just received two copper fc titan blocks from a friend who had left them with stagnant coolant in them for quite a while.
> 
> They were a bit stained so I opened them up and started to clean them.
> 
> Cleaned them up pretty well, and was ready to close them back up when the gasket all of a sudden seemed way too large to fit the grooved outline of the block.
> 
> This is the case for both blocks - the gasket seems to have magically grown 5-7mm since i pulled them out of their groove. I did not pull on them, literally just pinched the side and it slid out of the block.
> 
> I've tried cooling them down with ice - still a no go.
> 
> I know I can purchase new gaskets from frozen, but that is my last resort.
> 
> Anyone got any tips for a frustrated me?


Try to have something push down on them while you're going around the block and once you've got it weighed down around the whole block, let it sit in the freezer or somewhere cold for a while.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Try to have something push down on them while you're going around the block and once you've got it weighed down around the whole block, let it sit in the freezer or somewhere cold for a while.


I'll give that a go, thanks.

It's weird, it'll fit almost completely in the groove, but then at the end there is a little pinch which seems like its 5-7mm too much.

It's strange to me because not even a month ago I did some cleaning to two nickel titan blocks, and the gaskets were a piece of cake!

I'll freeze the thing and see how it goes


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> I'll give that a go, thanks.
> 
> It's weird, it'll fit almost completely in the groove, but then at the end there is a little pinch which seems like its 5-7mm too much.
> 
> It's strange to me because not even a month ago I did some cleaning to two nickel titan blocks, and the gaskets were a piece of cake!
> 
> I'll freeze the thing and see how it goes


What did you clean them with? I used to use Acetone to clean machine parts and if I left a paint brush with a plastic handle in the stuff, a couple of hours later the handle would be twice the size and bendy.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> What did you clean them with? I used to use Acetone to clean machine parts and if I left a paint brush with a plastic handle in the stuff, a couple of hours later the handle would be twice the size and bendy.


The gaskets? Just ran them through a cloth which I had soaked in distilled water.

The blocks I used distilled, toothbrush and elbow grease.


----------



## 15goudreau

Question for you guys here. I polished my Acrylic blocks with a plastic polisher after sanding it down to make it clear. I wanted to remove the film of the polisher so I used some q-tips and 99% isopropyl. Thinking about it after the fact....acrylic + glycol is bad... I doubt I have anything to worry about because it was so little an amount and it wasn't exposed to it, but do you guys think I should be concerned?


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Just received two copper fc titan blocks from a friend who had left them with stagnant coolant in them for quite a while.
> 
> They were a bit stained so I opened them up and started to clean them.
> 
> Cleaned them up pretty well, and was ready to close them back up when the gasket all of a sudden seemed way too large to fit the grooved outline of the block.
> 
> This is the case for both blocks - the gasket seems to have magically grown 5-7mm since i pulled them out of their groove. I did not pull on them, literally just pinched the side and it slid out of the block.
> 
> I've tried cooling them down with ice - still a no go.
> 
> I know I can purchase new gaskets from frozen, but that is my last resort.
> 
> Anyone got any tips for a frustrated me?


Sometimes this happens, the best way that i've found is to hold the gasket at one spot and starting from there with your other hand try and compress the o-ring as much as possible back towards that spot. Hold it down with stop plugs as you get further away so it doesn't pop out. Typically you can stuff a good amount of extra o-ring into each corner.


----------



## wermad

I was recommended to use silicone grease a long time ago to hold down the o-ring. Been using it ever since for many little things like this. Its cheap and you can find it in the plumbing section of your local hardware store. Its a must when dealing w/ eight small o-rings on my quad bridge.


----------



## szeged

I almost smashed my 780 classy block trying to get the o ring back in, was seriously on the verge of just breaking everything. Took an hour break to calm down, came back and got it in after another hour of waking everyone up with words that would get me banned from Ocn.


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I almost smashed my 780 classy block trying to get the o ring back in, was seriously on the verge of just breaking everything. Took an hour break to calm down, came back and got it in after another hour of waking everyone up with words that would get me banned from Ocn.


My blocks are only about a half year old and not looking forward to this part. Glad you got the back together ;p


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Sometimes this happens, the best way that i've found is to hold the gasket at one spot and starting from there with your other hand try and compress the o-ring as much as possible back towards that spot. Hold it down with stop plugs as you get further away so it doesn't pop out. Typically you can stuff a good amount of extra o-ring into each corner.


The issue wasn't that it was moving and wouldn't stay still, rather that it seemed like there was an excessive amount of excess o-ring left over once everything was in place.

Thank for the tip though, and I actually managed to stuff it in using the freezer trick.

I lined the gasket into the groove to the point where the excess bit was sticking out on one of the longer straights (as in no curve in the groove)

I then secured that with around seven elastic bands and put it in the freezer for just over an hour.

When I pulled it out, I was able to do as you mentioned - sort of stuff the gasket into place, especially in the corners. Worked like a charm.

That was a dress rehearsal. It has to be done in a timely manner, so once both blocks are ready for reassmbly, I will get straight to it.

Thanks again


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> The issue wasn't that it was moving and wouldn't stay still, rather that it seemed like there was an excessive amount of excess o-ring left over once everything was in place.
> 
> Thank for the tip though, and I actually managed to stuff it in using the freezer trick.
> 
> I lined the gasket into the groove to the point where the excess bit was sticking out on one of the longer straights (as in no curve in the groove)
> 
> I then secured that with around seven elastic bands and put it in the freezer for just over an hour.
> 
> When I pulled it out, I was able to do as you mentioned - sort of stuff the gasket into place, especially in the corners. Worked like a charm.
> 
> That was a dress rehearsal. It has to be done in a timely manner, so once both blocks are ready for reassmbly, I will get straight to it.
> 
> Thanks again


Worked for me, so I'm glad it worked for you too.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Worked for me, so I'm glad it worked for you too.


Thanks again!
The things we do for shiny blocks


----------



## Anoxy

A little peeved that my EK Supremacy came like this from PPCs:



Somebody skirted the "If broken, please check contents" sticker by cutting open the package -_- The block doesn't appear to be damaged in any way though.


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Both my EK blocks came with the bags broken in like five places....


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> A little peeved that my EK Supremacy came like this from PPCs:
> 
> 
> 
> Somebody skirted the "If broken, please check contents" sticker by cutting open the package -_- The block doesn't appear to be damaged in any way though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiknnwatrmln*
> 
> Both my EK blocks came with the bags broken in like five places....


Might just be breaking during shipping I guess. Was the outer seal on the box opened?


----------



## Anoxy

I suppose that could be it. I can't remember if the stickers were cut, but I'm fairly sure they weren't. Oh well, eager to get this badboy in my new build.


----------



## wzhaoca

Probably happened during transit. My CPU block came with bag broken too. My MB block's bag was broken also, with the sticker intact. The bags they use seems to be brittle and the blocks are heavy and have sharp corners. They move around during shipping.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wzhaoca*
> 
> Probably happened during transit. My CPU block came with bag broken too. My MB block's bag was broken also, with the sticker intact. The bags they use seems to be brittle and the blocks are heavy and have sharp corners. They move around during shipping.


Yeah the foam pieces they use are normally above and below but nothing to stop it moving from side to side


----------



## szeged

my bags have always had the seal intact still, didnt stop the plexi block from cracking unfortunately though


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I suppose that could be it. I can't remember if the stickers were cut, but I'm fairly sure they weren't. Oh well, eager to get this badboy in my new build.


The plastic they use is pretty brittle, so it's common for the mounts of the CPU block to slice holes. I wouldn't be too worried about it if the cold plate surface is nice & shiny... They mark up pretty easily, so it's easy to tell if it's been mounted to a CPU before.


----------



## King4x4

Finally installed the replacement top for RIVBE mosfet block that came cracked!



Also installed new EK blocks for my 290Xs!


----------



## friskiest

Why EK..?


----------



## xarot

I am quite new to water-cooling, I bought 3x 780 Ti Acetal+Nickel blocks from EK, all the blocks have strange scratches in the same exact corner. This is from the worst one.

I already contacted EK and they asked me to do RMA, but that would indicate some lost time again and some shipping costs for me, so I am probably just going to use the blocks for now.



All the seals etc. were intact, this is a manufacturing defect. How could this pass QC?

I just can't believe my luck again.


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> A little peeved that my EK Supremacy came like this from PPCs:
> 
> 
> 
> Somebody skirted the "If broken, please check contents" sticker by cutting open the package -_- The block doesn't appear to be damaged in any way though.


This is the way my classy block came from ppc, box sticker on one side was cut and bag broke open inside. Nothing was damaged but was odd, I've been using it a few weeks and no issues so far.

tappin from the neXus 5


----------



## derickwm

Thanks guys for the feedback. We'll be adding more foam to the boxes from now on.

Apologies for any delays or problem you have experienced.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> This is the way my classy block came from ppc, box sticker on one side was cut and bag broke open inside. Nothing was damaged but was odd, I've been using it a few weeks and no issues so far.
> 
> tappin from the neXus 5


Well thats uncool if the sticker was cut. I wonder if ppcs used that one for a product shot, but if so I would have thought they should consider it open box and discount it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Thanks guys for the feedback. We'll be adding more foam to the boxes from now on.
> 
> Apologies for any delays or problem you have experienced.


Wow much listen great feedback!


----------



## gdubc

All this broken seals talk makes me rethink my ppcs order. All my ek blocks came perfect from ppcs in the past but they were just released and not older stock. The mips blocks on the other hand were in a bubble manilla envelope. Sad to see that.


----------



## Kimir

Both my 780 classy block and supremacy block came with the cracked bag and bought them directly from EK e-shop.
External seals on the boxes were all in place. I think those bag material is a bit fragile and rigid, it cracks open easily, maybe EK should consider using the same material used for hard drive bag, those anti static bag are solid!
Anyway, it's not like we are buying the packaging.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> All this broken seals talk makes me rethink my ppcs order. All my ek blocks came perfect from ppcs in the past but they were just released and not older stock. The mips blocks on the other hand were in a bubble manilla envelope. Sad to see that.


Every EK block I got was always been in a sealed bag - inside the outer packaging.
Seeing all these open / broken bags makes you think twice after forking out for new items









All my MIPS blocks came in the envelopes you describe, with the fold back pins to close the envelopes.
So I think that was just how they were packaged.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Thanks guys for the feedback. We'll be adding more foam to the boxes from now on.
> 
> Apologies for any delays or problem you have experienced.


yay i love foam it tastes so good


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yay i love foam it tastes so good


i ordered some scorpion pepper sauce from pepper palace and it came with packing peanuts that looked and tasted exactly like cheetos cheese puffs, but without the cheese....

it was weird, but i managed to finish the box


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> i ordered some scorpion pepper sauce from pepper palace and it came with packing peanuts that looked and tasted exactly like cheetos cheese puffs, but without the cheese....
> 
> it was weird, but i managed to finish the box


rofl


----------



## Tempest2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> A little peeved that my EK Supremacy came like this from PPCs:
> 
> 
> 
> Somebody skirted the "If broken, please check contents" sticker by cutting open the package -_- The block doesn't appear to be damaged in any way though.


My RAM block arrived similarly to that. I think that the sharp corners cut the plastic slip during shipping. My CPU block packaging, on the other hand, was perfectly fine.


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> i ordered some scorpion pepper sauce from pepper palace and it came with packing peanuts that looked and tasted exactly like cheetos cheese puffs, but without the cheese....
> 
> it was weird, but i managed to finish the box


Haha your avatar makes that... I just read that post in Lahey's drunken voice.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiknnwatrmln*
> 
> Haha your avatar makes that... I just read that post in Lahey's drunken voice.


that could also easily be something Ricky would say lol


----------



## USFORCES

Found this site that carries EK also some of there prices are better than other EK dealers not to mention orders over $100 have free shipping which is pretty easy to do when buying water cooling parts. I've made 2 orders now and the guy seems to be pretty cool.
The web site is https://www.hellfiretoyz.com
Use promo-code "5off" and get 5% off your order and like I said there is free shipping on orders over $100.


----------



## VSG

Ya I have bought from Eric multiple times already, great guy with a small operation like Gary at Sidewinder.


----------



## USFORCES

Cool, yeah I never knew about him, also I would of saved a few bucks on shipping if I did.


----------



## USFORCES

I'm looking at two EK blocks right now they look to be the same the only difference, one says EN Nickel and the other says Nickel CSQ, anyone know what the difference is... Different type of plating or something?


----------



## wermad

EN is the revised nickel plating but using the "classic" FC design. CSQ was the next design (aka "crop circles") and I believe it uses a new plating system. Furthermore, "Clean" is the next design phase after CSQ.

Edit: "Classic" EN



CSQ Nickel



Clean Nickel


----------



## PCModderMike

Decided to try polishing my old CSQ block, I think it turned out alright. Don't mind the missing EK badge, I ordered more from FCPU and they're on the way.


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

I have a question that I figured somebody in here know the answer to.

My school's break is coming up (one week long) and my PC is set up at school. Now I've heard that letting coolant sit for a while without being pumped around is really bad for the parts and can accelerate corrosion, is this true? If it matters, my loop has been running for about 3 weeks now, and I'm running distilled with Liquid Utopia Bomb. I also have all copper or copper plated brass parts.

Should I leave it as is for a week, or should I drain it? I'm kinda hesitant to as that would be a waste of 3/4 gallon of coolant.


----------



## CastorTroy

Picked up an EK Supremecy CSQ and CSQ 290x block. Gotta say that swapping the intel plate for the AMD plate was possibly the most frustrating thing I've ever experienced. That oring is awful lol. I'll post some pics once the build is finished.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiknnwatrmln*
> 
> I have a question that I figured somebody in here know the answer to.
> 
> My school's break is coming up (one week long) and my PC is set up at school. Now I've heard that letting coolant sit for a while without being pumped around is really bad for the parts and can accelerate corrosion, is this true? If it matters, my loop has been running for about 3 weeks now, and I'm running distilled with Liquid Utopia Bomb. I also have all copper or copper plated brass parts.
> 
> Should I leave it as is for a week, or should I drain it? I'm kinda hesitant to as that would be a waste of 3/4 gallon of coolant.


ive let my rig sit turned off for a week or so before, no problems at all.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiknnwatrmln*
> 
> I have a question that I figured somebody in here know the answer to.
> 
> My school's break is coming up (one week long) and my PC is set up at school. Now I've heard that letting coolant sit for a while without being pumped around is really bad for the parts and can accelerate corrosion, is this true? If it matters, my loop has been running for about 3 weeks now, and I'm running distilled with Liquid Utopia Bomb. I also have all copper or copper plated brass parts.
> 
> Should I leave it as is for a week, or should I drain it? I'm kinda hesitant to as that would be a waste of 3/4 gallon of coolant.


I left the country for vacation over the holidays for 3 weeks. My system sat idle the whole time. Came back to no problems at all. I also just broke down my loop for a new build, so I was able to verify definitely no corrosion issues. I ran distilled with Mayhem's dye.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CastorTroy*
> 
> Picked up an EK Supremecy CSQ and CSQ 290x block. Gotta say that swapping the intel plate for the AMD plate was possibly the most frustrating thing I've ever experienced. That oring is awful lol. I'll post some pics once the build is finished.


Just wait until you pull apart a GPU block for cleaning, then fighting that o-ring putting it back together. Now *that's* an awful experience.


----------



## friskiest

Looks like some flaking on one of my FC Titan Nickel blocks.


----------



## batmanwcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Found this site that carries EK also some of there prices are better than other EK dealers not to mention orders over $100 have free shipping which is pretty easy to do when buying water cooling parts. I've made 2 orders now and the guy seems to be pretty cool.
> The web site is https://www.hellfiretoyz.com
> Use promo-code "5off" and get 5% off your order and like I said there is free shipping on orders over $100.


I used them for my Supremacy Block, PE120 & DDC heatsink. They shipped fast and everything was in order. I used their amazon store since I have some gift cards to burn. The only problem is their selection is small compared to the bigger outfits.


----------



## szeged

Hey guys for ek supremacy blocks, is it ek logo top right rotation to get the extra cooling on socket 2011? Don't want to end up turning it the wrong way lol. Or does it not matter as long as it's rotated 90 degrees either way?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Found this site that carries EK also some of there prices are better than other EK dealers not to mention orders over $100 have free shipping which is pretty easy to do when buying water cooling parts. I've made 2 orders now and the guy seems to be pretty cool.
> The web site is https://www.hellfiretoyz.com
> Use promo-code "5off" and get 5% off your order and like I said there is free shipping on orders over $100.


Yupp, iv'e dealt with them a few times through their Amazon Store. Definitely a legit entity.

Now if I could find a retailer that sells Titan tops... acrylic/pom... I don't care @ this point. It's like the one top EK doesn't have listed on site, so I don't have much hope.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Hey guys for ek supremacy blocks, is it ek logo top right rotation to get the extra cooling on socket 2011? Don't want to end up turning it the wrong way lol. Or does it not matter as long as it's rotated 90 degrees either way?



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CastorTroy*
> 
> Picked up an EK Supremecy CSQ and CSQ 290x block. Gotta say that swapping the intel plate for the AMD plate was possibly the most frustrating thing I've ever experienced. That oring is awful lol. I'll post some pics once the build is finished.


You think the CPU block o-ring is bad? You should try putting the GPU blocks back together...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Hey guys for ek supremacy blocks, is it ek logo top right rotation to get the extra cooling on socket 2011? Don't want to end up turning it the wrong way lol. Or does it not matter as long as it's rotated 90 degrees either way?


It won't matter, as long as the micro channels run up/down, port orientation doesn't matter (inlet top or bottom)


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Does anyone know how hard it is to flip the inlet and outlet ports on a gpu water block as the way it currently is will mean that the EK logo will be upside down in my case. Is it possible to just flip the black acetal section upside down, there are two o rings between it and the block but I don't know how tricky they will be to put back/if this even works upside down, if someone could let me know ASAP it would be appreciated!


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Does anyone know how hard it is to flip the inlet and outlet ports on a gpu water block as the way it currently is will mean that the EK logo will be upside down in my case. Is it possible to just flip the black acetal section upside down, there are two o rings between it and the block but I don't know how tricky they will be to put back/if this even works upside down, if someone could let me know ASAP it would be appreciated!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've done it on two blocks so far, so it matches my reverse atx layout.

Just unscrew the three hex bolts in the acetal, it will come right off and you can flip it without issue.

The orings are not too bad, there are grooves for them on the acetal block and they are relatively good at staying put.

When reattaching the acetal block, i lined it up and did the center screw first. That worked for me insofar as holding the orings + acetal in place.

Took at the most five minutes


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I've done it on two blocks so far, so it matches my reverse atx layout.
> 
> Just unscrew the three hex bolts in the acetal, it will come right off and you can flip it without issue.
> 
> The orings are not too bad, there are grooves for them on the acetal block and they are relatively good at staying put.
> 
> When reattaching the acetal block, i lined it up and did the center screw first. That worked for me insofar as holding the orings + acetal in place.
> 
> Took at the most five minutes


thanks will give it a go!


----------



## Gardnerphotos

argh what have you done! I cant get it back on for the life of me, the o rings just want to be round, once you get one side in the other pops out and once you finally get both in and go to screw it in one corner will pop out


----------



## Gardnerphotos

got it in finally, boy that was stressful haha


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> got it in finally, boy that was stressful haha


Haha was it really that bad?
Glad you got it sorted though.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> got it in finally, boy that was stressful haha


I find smushing/creasing the O-ring on the sides helps quite a bit.


----------



## Pheozero

Aww, I just realized that the ZMT tubing is only for 3/8" x 5/8".


----------



## Sluggo

Any EK terminal blocks out there for dual sli in the R4BE where pciE slots 1 and 4 are a little over 3 inches apart?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

I found, when reassembling my EK 7970 blacks, that a piece of scotch tape works wonders when keeping o-rings in place. On the VRM section of the block, the o-ring wouldn't stay put so I tape it down in two places with scotch tape, screwed down one screw to keep the o-rings in place and I was able to just pull the tape from between the plate and top.

It worked excellently!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> Any EK terminal blocks out there for dual sli in the R4BE where pciE slots 1 and 4 are a little over 3 inches apart?


You'll need a triple (serial or parallel) with a respective matching "blank" that'll cover the middle slot.


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You'll need a triple (serial or parallel) with a respective matching "blank" that'll cover the middle slot.


What do I use for the middle blank? Is there a certain part or plug?


----------



## montyman03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> What do I use for the middle blank? Is there a certain part or plug?


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1207&products_id=37708


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You'll need a triple (serial or parallel) with a respective matching "blank" that'll cover the middle slot.
> 
> 
> 
> What do I use for the middle blank? Is there a certain part or plug?
Click to expand...

Yeah, like the one montyman03 posted. There's different ones for parallel and serial terminals, just be sure to get the corresponding blank.


----------



## Sluggo

perfect, thanks guys.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Question for you guys. I have the EK x3 250 res with the option multi port top http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport.html,

One of my multiports is leaking at the actual fitting (where it screws into the port on the res). The res mentions that a extender is needed if using specific ports. If you look at the multi port im using one of the top 3 ports. Is a extender needed to fix this? Also will a standard bitspower extender work because i lost the included EK ones a long time ago.


----------



## CastorTroy

just wanted to confirm that i have my orientations correct:


----------



## Sluggo

So, I've got these two pumps and res tops facing each other and space is tight. Are 90 degree fittings ok to use at the inlet/outlet of the pumps? I'm thinking it's ok since I've got some overkill going with two separate loops and not many blocks in the way of each.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CastorTroy*
> 
> just wanted to confirm that i have my orientations correct:


No clue, it's set up with the mounting plate for an AMD proc and I have zero knowledge on the way the AMD die is oriented under their IHS. But you want the little micro channels in the run parallel with the CPU die inside the proc.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> So, I've got these two pumps and res tops facing each other and space is tight. Are 90 degree fittings ok to use at the inlet/outlet of the pumps? I'm thinking it's ok since I've got some overkill going with two separate loops and not many blocks in the way of each.


Yes it's okay. 90* fititngs don't add THAT much restriction.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> argh what have you done! I cant get it back on for the life of me, the o rings just want to be round, once you get one side in the other pops out and once you finally get both in and go to screw it in one corner will pop out


Heh I just installed triple parallel terminal during weekend, that's a real "challenge accepted"...







6 O-rings there.

I had to install all cards with blocks into the terminal outside the case, then installing three heavy cards into the case is not a simple task. I think I might never get them out again without damaging the motherboard! Or maybe I need to uninstall the terminal first or something.

My first experience with EK is not very good, one of my blocks was missing a screw standoff completely next to the "QC PASSED" sticker, first the scratches on all blocks and then this. I thought EK will be very good in terms of quality but this surprised me.

I installed them anyway and if I get the missing standoff from EK I might install it "someday".


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Question for you guys. I have the EK x3 250 res with the option multi port top http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport.html,
> 
> One of my multiports is leaking at the actual fitting (where it screws into the port on the res). The res mentions that a extender is needed if using specific ports. If you look at the multi port im using one of the top 3 ports. Is a extender needed to fix this? Also will a standard bitspower extender work because i lost the included EK ones a long time ago.


Ya need these

Reservoir Fill Tube Internal Tube 12/16 - 140mm (EK-RES-X3-TUBE-140
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312

EK - Extender Fitting - EK G1/4 Thread Fitting Extender - Nickel - 8mm (Fitting Extender G1/4 (Ni)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18760/scr-701/EK_G14_Thread_Fitting_Extender_-_Nickel_-_8mm_Fitting_Extender_G14_Ni.html?id=4NiLmkLB&mv_pc=1256

The Bitspower one does actually fit the single port top. However on the multiport top, where ya would think ya cud install the BP from the bottom by sticking it upo thru the larger diameter hole into the smaller.... but they left like 2mm between the two do that doesn't work (unless ya extend threads yaself w/ tapping kit).

As I recall the OD of the BP fittings is 188m and EK makes the recessed port openings only 17mm ..... so again, it's eiither buy the EK part or drill the recess out from 17 to 18mm.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Ya need these
> 
> Reservoir Fill Tube Internal Tube 12/16 - 140mm (EK-RES-X3-TUBE-140
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312
> 
> EK - Extender Fitting - EK G1/4 Thread Fitting Extender - Nickel - 8mm (Fitting Extender G1/4 (Ni)
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18760/scr-701/EK_G14_Thread_Fitting_Extender_-_Nickel_-_8mm_Fitting_Extender_G14_Ni.html?id=4NiLmkLB&mv_pc=1256
> 
> The Bitspower one does actually fit the single port top. However on the multiport top, where ya would think ya cud install the BP from the bottom by sticking it upo thru the larger diameter hole into the smaller.... but they left like 2mm between the two do that doesn't work (unless ya extend threads yaself w/ tapping kit).
> 
> As I recall the OD of the BP fittings is 18mm and EK makes the recessed port openings only 17mm ..... so again, it's eiither buy the EK part or drill the recess out from 17 to 18mm.


Thank you very much for the response. I already have the res fill tube and im using it
 






. So essentially I have to use the EK extender and not the BP because the OD on the BP is too big. Thats so dumb lol. I would have drilled it out and taped it if I knew that but way too late for that now.


----------



## jdpworks

Howdy,

I have a EK D5 X-Res Top 140 and was thinking of replacing it with the EK X3 Reservoir Replacement Tube 250.EK's website seem to state that this will work but I'm not 100% sure... Anyone have any experience with this?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17773/ex-res-463/EK_X3_Reservoir_Replacement_Tube_-_250_EK-RES_X3_-_TUBE_250_204mm.html?id=q5HPpmPK&mv_pc=13921

Has anyone put one of the Harbinger Sleeves on this reservoir?

Thanks.


----------



## Anoxy

Curious as to why the black 780 blocks are full coverage while the plexi/acrylic (?) are not.


----------



## wermad

There's a few different versions for the Titan block. The first ones had tops matching the block's length. Then XXL used a top that extended the further out. The SE were a continuation of the XXL. All of these blocks are technically "full cover" since they cover the core, vrma, and vrm.


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Curious as to why the black 780 blocks are full coverage while the plexi/acrylic (?) are not.


Clear plexi is brittle... bet they removed the extra layer due to stress during transportation.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Clear plexi is brittle... bet they removed the extra layer due to stress during transportation.


It is also just a design decision. The "full length" plexi blocks that were available looked a bit odd covering components with a see through material and I'm pretty sure one off the EK guys said they didn't sell well.
The Acetal full length blocks at least serve a visual purpose.
The actual metal parts of all the blocks was the same though and interchangable except between generations of design.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> I have a EK D5 X-Res Top 140 and was thinking of replacing it with the EK X3 Reservoir Replacement Tube 250.EK's website seem to state that this will work but I'm not 100% sure... Anyone have any experience with this?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17773/ex-res-463/EK_X3_Reservoir_Replacement_Tube_-_250_EK-RES_X3_-_TUBE_250_204mm.html?id=q5HPpmPK&mv_pc=13921
> 
> Has anyone put one of the Harbinger Sleeves on this reservoir?
> 
> Thanks.


no, these X3 tube will not work with your res, you need to buy a complete res

and where i can buy these Hardbinger tube?

EDIT: ok Found it, but only in black and yes it work on EK X3 250 res, you need to order the EK version


----------



## kpoeticg

Anybody know what the best way would be to paint a black EK DDC Heatsink Housing => White? I'm assuming Plasti-Dip would be a bad idea cuz it would insulate it. It says in the descriptions that the black ones are painted


----------



## snef

i think a motor paint or any high temp paint will be perfect

but im sure if you use regular paint, you will have no issue, after 3 day running mine is just barely warm to touch
no issue here to paint it


----------



## kpoeticg

Cool. Thanx for the reply =)


----------



## jdpworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> no, these X3 tube will not work with your res, you need to buy a complete res
> 
> and where i can buy these Hardbinger tube?
> 
> EDIT: ok Found it, but only in black and yes it work on EK X3 250 res, you need to order the EK version


Thanks for the reply. I have not heard back from EK yet regarding this question. My other source says it will work as they
are both 60mm OD... But again I am not 100% sure.

I really like the sleeved look on the reservoir and this is the only one I can find for EK tubes. Nothing for the 140.

I'm pretty sure its not designed to, but is it possible to mount EK RS X3 250 horizontally?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17509/ex-res-432/EK-MultiOption_RES_X3_250_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_6_Total_Ports.html?id=aQHgDpY9&mv_pc=351

BTW your builds look awesome! I'm about to start work on my first water build! Learning lots!


----------



## Jakusonfire

The X3 tubes definitely fit the D5 X-res.
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-res-x3-series.html

I have a D5 X-res 100 and have swapped in the 150 tube.

The parts are all modular, it is just different series that will not fit together. Like trying to use an X2 tube or multioption tube with a D5 X-RES


----------



## jdpworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The X3 tubes definitely fit the D5 X-res.
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-res-x3-series.html
> 
> I have a D5 X-res 100 and have swapped in the 150 tube.
> 
> The parts are all modular, it is just different series that will not fit together. Like trying to use an X2 tube or multioption tube with a D5 X-RES


Awesome thanks for the info!
Did you change the Anti Vortex Block to a larger one?


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I have not heard back from EK yet regarding this question. My other source says it will work as they
> are both 60mm OD... But again I am not 100% sure.
> 
> I really like the sleeved look on the reservoir and this is the only one I can find for EK tubes. Nothing for the 140.
> 
> I'm pretty sure its not designed to, but is it possible to mount EK RS X3 250 horizontally?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17509/ex-res-432/EK-MultiOption_RES_X3_250_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_6_Total_Ports.html?id=aQHgDpY9&mv_pc=351
> 
> BTW your builds look awesome! I'm about to start work on my first water build! Learning lots!


Thanks

ahhh D5 Res, sorry , yes, same serie of res as X3, i was sure you talk about old serie X-res

for installing an EK X3 res horizontally
if you look at my Red Poseidon build log, i installed a EK X3 res 400 horizontally
no issue, just be sure you have the outlet to the pump to the lower port on res
like this


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> Awesome thanks for the info!
> Did you change the Anti Vortex Block to a larger one?


No I didn't bother. It didn't look different enough to me just being a bit longer. Maybe if the design was different or something.
I don't plan on having high enough flow rate for it to be an issue.

The same tubes that fit my D5 X-res also fit my D5 Dual top. They all have thread on the exterior of the tube and seal by compressing an O-ring. Completely swappable and changeable.


----------



## acanom

Oh boy, I hunted for nearly a week after the EK-CSQ Fitting 10/16mm G1/4 -Black Nickel.

I went through 5 shops. Every single one listing them as available and telling me later or the next day that they are in fact not.

Yeah I could have changed plans and switch to other fittings but I already orderd the 90° and 45° adapter from EK directly and I realy like them to match the fittings.

Finaly had to order them from Specialtech in the UK and they are on their way already, checked bacl directly with the support befor the order. MIght have to wait now for a bit longer but it can´t be helped.

Are they that popular? ^^

Also I really hope EK will be shipping my order soon, already been 3 days









I´m not the most patient person


----------



## Kamtzy

Anyone knows when EK will release the Fullcover block for the Gigabyte 780/780 Ti GHz Edition?
Hate the look of my rig with that "little" loop


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Oh boy, I hunted for nearly a week after the EK-CSQ Fitting 10/16mm G1/4 -Black Nickel.
> 
> I went through 5 shops. Every single one listing them as available and telling me later or the next day that they are in fact not.
> 
> Yeah I could have changed plans and switch to other fittings but I already orderd the 90° and 45° adapter from EK directly and I realy like them to match the fittings.
> 
> *Finaly had to order them from Specialtech in the UK and they are on their way already, checked bacl directly with the support befor the order. MIght have to wait now for a bit longer but it can´t be helped.
> 
> Are they that popular? ^^
> 
> Also I really hope EK will be shipping my order soon, already been 3 days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> I´m not the most patient person


I ordered a Bitspower fitting from a "certain UK supplier" (not Specialtech) and it was free postage but took seven days to get from Manchester to York (61 miles) via Royal Mail. I queried the supplier after 4 days as to whether they could give me a tracking number, which they did but it didn't work.


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kamtzy*
> 
> Anyone knows when EK will release the Fullcover block for the Gigabyte 780/780 Ti GHz Edition?
> Hate the look of my rig with that "little" loop


Did you check the http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/. They often give hints on what they are planning if there isn´t a part available for a certain card.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I ordered a Bitspower fitting from a "certain UK supplier" (not Specialtech) and it was free postage but took seven days to get from Manchester to York (61 miles) via Royal Mail. I queried the supplier after 4 days as to whether they could give me a tracking number, which they did but it didn't work.


Sadly I´m already planning with atleast 7 days until delivery. Gladly it´s shipped via FedEx and I already got my tracking number.

I know, that Royal Mail tracking numbers only cover the UK part of the delivery and not the rest. Don´t know how it works with FedEx.

The tracking of Royal Mail is kind a strange, it just says "It´s on the way" not very informative ^^


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Curious as to why the black 780 blocks are full coverage while the plexi/acrylic (?) are not.


There are three EK Full cover blocks for the Asus 780 .... as I recall, reference blocks are same way

The acrylic full cover block is same as PCB and backplate lengthwise and has the EK circle logos embossed on it
The acetal (black) full cover block is as above but not acrylic.
The "Clean" acrylic full cover block is 1" shorter than the other two.... covers "full" GPU, VRAM and VRM but leaves last 1" of PCB nekid.

Asked EK why two different lengths, the responded that was an aesthetic decision.... didn't quite see why .... I mean the backplates are all the same length and that's the visible part ..... but again, how it looks in the case is not how it looks in the catalog. i was thankful they made the short one a sboth the long ones are unusable in SLI in an Enthoo Primo case as low block will hit res bracket whereas the '"hort" one misses by 2mm.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I have not heard back from EK yet regarding this question. My other source says it will work as they
> are both 60mm OD... But again I am not 100% sure.
> 
> I really like the sleeved look on the reservoir and this is the only one I can find for EK tubes. Nothing for the 140.
> 
> I'm pretty sure its not designed to, but is it possible to mount EK RS X3 250 horizontally?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17509/ex-res-432/EK-MultiOption_RES_X3_250_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_6_Total_Ports.html?id=aQHgDpY9&mv_pc=351
> 
> BTW your builds look awesome! I'm about to start work on my first water build! Learning lots!


Check with OCN Member IncredibleHulk .... it's my recollection that he did exactly that ....switching tube lengths that is .... and that it was discussed in this very thread as well as others.


----------



## Kamtzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Did you check the http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/. They often give hints on what they are planning if there isn´t a part available for a certain card.


Yep, already checked it. They said it's planned for end of feb and in the configurator its listed aswell but not available. Was just wondering if I missed anything and it was delayed but looks like I'll just have to wait until there is another official statement.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kamtzy*
> 
> Yep, already checked it. They said it's planned for end of feb and in the configurator its listed aswell but not available. Was just wondering if I missed anything and it was delayed but looks like I'll just have to wait until there is another official statement.


oh hai there!


----------



## Kamtzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> oh hai there!


----------



## dcatvn

Quick question, I am planning to add another 290 and in order to cool both cards, do I need bridge or termal? From what I know it should be terminal right?


----------



## Kamtzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcatvn*
> 
> Quick question, I am planning to add another 290 and in order to cool both cards, do I need bridge or termal? From what I know it should be terminal right?


Which blocks do you have?


----------



## dcatvn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kamtzy*
> 
> Which blocks do you have?


I have the EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel.


----------



## Domiro

Does anybody know how tall a stick of RAM becomes with the EK RAM Monarch module attached?

I'm considering using them for conventional cooling since my current heatspreaders are a little tall.


----------



## King4x4

You don't need to cool ram except for cosmetics.


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> except for cosmetics.












Meant cosmetics indeed, little ambigious wording on my part.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcatvn*
> 
> Quick question, I am planning to add another 290 and in order to cool both cards, do I need bridge or termal? From what I know it should be terminal right?


Depends on what ya wanna do.....are we talking a) separately piped. b) crystal link or c) bridge thingie ?


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcatvn*
> 
> I have the EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel.


You can use EK Bridge or SLI Fitting


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcatvn*
> 
> I have the EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel.


The plain versions of the 290X block use the terminal system. The CSQ version uses the CSQ bridges. They aren't interchangeable.


----------



## szeged

powered by ek waterblocks...and pump top...


----------



## Jakusonfire

What ever happened with the Ascendency?
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/12/05/ek-sneak-peaks-the-new-ascendency/

I'm fascinated with the idea of a genuine Aquaero alternative, depending on what it is capable of. Will it be my next controller or will I stick with what I know and upgrade to Aquaero 6?

I'm clutching my pearls in anticipation


----------



## King4x4

No idea but I want one!

Build is nearly complete when it comes to the water cooling part... only waiting for brackets to hold the pumps down from UNdesign (Searched for the fan brackets but couldn't find them anymore on EK website).

Build is %95 EK


----------



## Asus11

Can a Ek Rep

Please confirm that the

Naked ivy mount only comes with 3 washers????

I have phoned up specialtech and they have told me that's the way they are?

Only 3 washers is it correct??


----------



## khemist

780 Ti classified blocked up and new nickel cpu block.


----------



## Ovrclck

^ So Sezzy sir. Looking great!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> Can a Ek Rep
> 
> Please confirm that the
> 
> Naked ivy mount only comes with 3 washers????
> 
> I have phoned up specialtech and they have told me that's the way they are?
> 
> Only 3 washers is it correct??


Its right on the product page
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-precisemount-add-on-naked-ivy.html

They are for the latch mechanism bolts and there are 3 bolts. For the 4 thumb screws you re-use the washers that came with the Supremacy.


----------



## Iniura

When an item is out of stock on the EKWB website, you can't order it. Is it already back ordered and do you have to wait until its in stock again or is there some email address I need to contact to speed up the process?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Caution caution! It appears that Gigabyte R9 290(X) Windforce 3X series graphics cards (no longer) fit our EK-FC R9-290X series water blocks due to slight changes to the circuit board. We will however release a compatible water block in the near future.
> 
> Please share among your fellow water cooling enthusiasts!


From EK's facebook page.


----------



## darwing

Hey guys I'm putting on a 4770k delided with the ek supremacy gold edition and it comes with 3 alternate jet plates.

Then I purchased a separate jet plate #6 from here http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/ek_supreme_hf_-_peformance_jet_plate_no_6/

Which should I use for the 4770k delidded





The alternate jet plate #6 is furthest right


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Hey guys I'm putting on a 4770k delided with the ek supremacy gold edition and it comes with 3 alternate jet plates.
> 
> Then I purchased a separate jet plate #6 from here http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/ek_supreme_hf_-_peformance_jet_plate_no_6/
> 
> Which should I use for the 4770k delidded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The alternate jet plate #6 is furthest right


The owners manual in the box should tell you exactly. But I grabbed mine for you and the manual says to use jetplate #2, of all the jetplates, it's the thickest one, obviously from your picture, it's hard to see the thickness, but it is one of the three on the left.


----------



## derickwm

Jetplate 3 is optimized for 1150/1155 and jetplate 4 is for 2011. Jetplate 6 is for the old Supreme HF block.


----------



## derickwm

@Asus11 yes 3 are standard.

Ascendency has been delayed a little but we'll hopefully have some updates soon.


----------



## snef

quick question

i saw on other thread and post

better way to install Supremacy block is inlet/outlet vertical or fin in same way as cpu dye,
it is true?
nothing clear on this

Thanks


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> quick question
> 
> i saw on other thread and post
> 
> better way to install Supremacy block is inlet/outlet vertical or fin in same way as cpu dye,
> it is true?
> nothing clear on this
> 
> Thanks


It gets you like a degree of improvement. I'd put it in whatever orientation would make it easier to do routing.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> @Asus11 yes 3 are standard.
> 
> Ascendency has been delayed a little but we'll hopefully have some updates soon.


Darlene (IT Diva) has been running some extensive tests with the Aquaero 6 and its PWM functionality. I will be helping her out with my Corsair PWM setup as well. You guys may find her a great resource for helping develop the Ascendency


----------



## doctakedooty

Hey guys I have a question I got all EK products for blocks and most the rads. I am running a dual look with a Alphacool monsta 480mm rad at the top of my 900D a Alpahcool 240mm in the front with a Swiftech MCP35x pump with the EK top cooling my 4930K ram and motherboard and the second loop is another mcp35x pump and ek top with a EK XT 480 mm rad and 240 mm EK XT cooling 3 780 Ti's with Ek blocks. I am running everything out of a EK 250ML res with the multi option top but my question is if I use the sponges that came with the res will it stop the few bubbles I get into my pumps and pumped back into my loop when I boot my pc. Temps are amazing even everything overclocked water temps only warm up usually about 4C over ambient when gaming after 2 or 3 hours actually inside my case is cooler then the outside of it.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The owners manual in the box should tell you exactly. But I grabbed mine for you and the manual says to use jetplate #2, of all the jetplates, it's the thickest one, obviously from your picture, it's hard to see the thickness, but it is one of the three on the left.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Jetplate 3 is optimized for 1150/1155 and jetplate 4 is for 2011. Jetplate 6 is for the old Supreme HF block.


Uh guys, I don't mean to sound rude, but Jetplate #3 is wrong, current manual says Jetplate #2 for 1150!!! Jetplate #3 is just the "universal" that comes pre-installed in the block.
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990549.pdf


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reckit*
> 
> Been waiting 4 weeks for 2 x EK FC770 GTX DC11, they seem to be as rare as rocking horse s*"t in Europe at the moment


Production is backed up completely. I"ll ask when the next line of DC2 blocks are due.

@Jimhans1 my apologies I was thinking back to moonman's 3770k comparison:










J2 is indeed better for 1150:


----------



## skupples

Jeesh... Ascendency could actually compete head to head with AquaComputer's Aquaero series... 8 PWM headers?







Now it just needs a sexy face plate.


----------



## Kimir

I guess EK suffer from it's popularity... I have a hard time trying to find EK-CSQ Fittings 10/13mm black and EK-PSC Adapter 90° G1/4" Black.
The adapters are out of stock everywhere, while the fitting is available at EK, but I'd rather wait for my reseller to get them back in stock or I will pay more for shipping than the sum of the few fittings I need.


----------



## wermad

Picked up a heatsink kit:


----------



## Reckit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Production is backed up completely. I"ll ask when the next line of DC2 blocks are due.
> 
> @Jimhans1
> my apologies I was thinking back to moonman's 3770k comparison:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> J2 is indeed better for 1150:


I hear you Hefner

Thanks mate I appreciate i:thumb:t. They are lucky that nobody else produces a block specifically for that card. If other options were available I would have cancelled my order and chosen a different block, only because my build has been sitting there half finished for a month.

Anyway I didn't join the forum to moan, just wanted to know if anyone else was in the same boat. Nice to meet you all

Mod edit: Please use the edit button instead of double posting.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Cheese and crackers, fix your post Reckit!!!


----------



## Reckit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Cheese and crackers, fix your post Reckit!!!


Sorry I don't understand, are you saying hello welcome to the forum?


----------



## skupples

EK has definitely become the #1 go to brand for water blocks, specially for people new to the scene, which seems to be growing exponentially these days.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reckit*
> 
> Sorry I don't understand, are you saying hello welcome to the forum?


lol, for some reason that quoted pic was plastered six times in your post!!! Not now








No worries and definitely welcome to the forums!!!


----------



## Reckit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> lol, for some reason that quoted pic was plastered six times in your post!!! Not now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No worries and definitely welcome to the forums!!!


[quote

Ah I see, that might have something to do with me posting on a tablet. It didn't show up like that at my end, but the forum keeps crashing my browser

Thanks for the welcome:thumb:


----------



## Kinaesthetic

I just hope the Ascendancy can run an AP-15 at less than 40% of the max speed without fluctuating. I still haven't found a fan controller that can go that low on the AP-15s, and voltage fluctuations on the AP-15s cause the fan to make a variable whirring noise that I'm particularly sensitive to.


----------



## skupples

hrm... I don't experience any of that with AP-15's on my Aquaero.


----------



## iamkraine

Not sure if this has been answered here but what is the best oem TIM for ek Titan block?


----------



## wermad

EK includes Gelid Extreme w/ their supremacy blocks.


----------



## 7ha7a5ian




----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Not sure if this has been answered here but what is the best oem TIM for ek Titan block?


As wermad stated we recommend you use the TIM that we include with our blocks.


----------



## skupples

pro-tip avoid Coollabs Liquid products, if you own nickel blocks. They seem to not get along very well. Temps are awesome, but it seems the CLU likes to nibble on copper.


----------



## kpoeticg

I always thought CLU was meant for De-Lidding and putting CLU in between the die & IHS afterwards...


----------



## iamkraine

My friend took apart his gpu block and used super glue to keep the o-ring in place. Bad idea?


----------



## derickwm

I don't recommend that.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I always thought CLU was meant for De-Lidding and putting CLU in between the die & IHS afterwards...


I think that's the most common use but I don't think that's what it was invented for. That's actually where I first noticed how it reacts to copper but the reaction is even more obvious on the high quality copper blocks. Im going to strip it off when I rebuild in the sth-10. Temps are great but permanent damage isnt worth the 2c.


----------



## hotrod717

With the imminent release of of MSI's 290X Lightning, When will these blocks be available? I have not seen any news of a block to be released on their website.


----------



## derickwm

They're being worked on. Can't guarantee they'll be available on launch date, but they're in the works.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> They're being worked on. Can't guarantee they'll be available on launch date, but they're in the works.


Thanks! Just a received a great quality EK classy block on Sat.


----------



## skupples

Great thing about EK... They do almost everything in house.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Hey guys I'm putting on a 4770k delided with the ek supremacy gold edition and it comes with 3 alternate jet plates.
> 
> Then I purchased a separate jet plate #6 from here http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/ek_supreme_hf_-_peformance_jet_plate_no_6/
> 
> Which should I use for the 4770k delidded
> 
> The alternate jet plate #6 is furthest right


Use the one (J2) indicated in the instructions.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990808.pdf



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> My friend took apart his gpu block and used super glue to keep the o-ring in place. Bad idea?


Yes. The way an O-ring works is it can expand and contract and changes shape was it is compressed....glue works against all that


----------



## vaeron

Guess I'll have to throw my waterblock in to the mix. Lovin my EK Supremacy Nickel block!


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Use the one (J2) indicated in the instructions.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990808.pdf


Thanks too bad I bought that separate jet plate #6 but it wasn't much money, I'll go ahead and install #2 then


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> My friend took apart his gpu block and used super glue to keep the o-ring in place. Bad idea?


As Derick said, bad Idea. Superglue can damage the o-ring and a leak is more plausible. In hindsight, get some silicone grease from your local hardware store and use that instead.


----------



## lowfat

There are super glues designed for nitrile. I used it on my gpu block the first time i opened it. Have opened it now 4 mores times with zero new headaches caused by spending time on betting the oring back in place.


----------



## Hefner

Friends don't let friends put superglue on their blocks. What was he thinking?


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Friends don't let friends put superglue on their blocks. What was he thinking?


lol I didn't let him, he told me after the fact. There are no leaks though. Should I advise him to remove it and get a new o-ring?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> lol I didn't let him, he told me after the fact. There are no leaks though. Should I advise him to remove it and get a new o-ring?


What super glue did he use?

My block has been used for 6 plus months w/ 5 disassembles. No leaks.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> quick question
> 
> i saw on other thread and post
> 
> better way to install Supremacy block is inlet/outlet vertical or fin in same way as cpu dye,
> it is true?
> nothing clear on this
> 
> Thanks


Yes, it's clear....check the round up link a few posts back ..... vertically gets better numbers..... As I recall, the difference in mounting is bigger than the difference between the 1st and 3rd place finisher....tho not true on all blocks on all CPUs.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Thanks too bad I bought that separate jet plate #6 but it wasn't much money, I'll go ahead and install #2 then


FrozenCPU has all the links to the installation instructions on their product page.....good thing cuz I never been able to find searching EK site







. I try and collect (and actually read) all I can before I buy .... then print, highlight and store in 3 ring binder.... gives me sumthin to read whgile waiting for that brown truck to pull in driveway.


----------



## wermad

I'm guessing more then likely its the off the shelf superglue, unless its something like Low used.

Still, glue is glue and i wouldn't mess w/ it. Silicone grease is as cheap as super glue, a tad messy, but not permanent. Easily wipes off when you want to clean it.

Any one have their DDC w/ the EK heatsink kit and mounted in there case? Looking for ideas to set up my pump w/ the added heatsink (and ek ddc csq top)


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What super glue did he use?
> 
> My block has been used for 6 plus months w/ 5 disassembles. No leaks.


Original super glue. Used only on the corners. LOL now hes asking how to remove it.


----------



## Anoxy

Am I supposed to use thermal compound on my EK Titan blocks, in addition to the pads.

When I first installed them on my 780s, I think the instructions said to add a bit of thermal compound between the pads and die surfaces. Just wondering if that compound should be any different from the Arctic Silver Matrix I used on my CPU block, or if I should use any at all?


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I use Fuji-poly extreme thermal pads + TIM on my VRM's/memory... I use an extremely thin layer, on the top & bottom of the pads.
> 
> EK's stock thermal pads are not so hot.


So, I took advice from you and Jimhans1 and replaced the EK thermal pads with Fujipoly! Except I didn't use any TIM. I found the pads to be sticky enough.


----------



## wermad

Damn, you guys luv your thermal pads. Shoots, i just buy whats cheap and go. I put more thought in the tim that goes w/ the core







. But the pad, not so much for moi. That's just me


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Damn, you guys luv your thermal pads. Shoots, i just buy whats cheap and go. I put more thought in the tim that goes w/ the core
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But the pad, not so much for moi. That's just me


I was the same way, but then I read several people saying they switched to fuji poly and got much better temps. I figure why not? Dat tax return money burning a hole in my pocket!


----------



## szeged

I'm using Fuji on everything now, when you're really pushing the volts cooler is better for sure.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Damn, you guys luv your thermal pads. Shoots, i just buy whats cheap and go. I put more thought in the tim that goes w/ the core
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But the pad, not so much for moi. That's just me


See below
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I'm using Fuji on everything now, when you're really pushing the volts *cooler is better for sure*.


This ^^^^^ every little bit helps in my eyes. It's worth it to me.


----------



## szeged

I replaced all the stock thermal pads that came with my kingpins vrm plate for ln2 cooling, should help a lot. Did the same to both of my 780 lightnings. The fujipoly ultra extreme is just insane.


----------



## Anoxy

Sweet. Ordering some to replace the stock pads then. Running my cards at 1.3V when gaming so every bit counts


----------



## King4x4

I find it strange that everybody is screaming about thermal pads while the ones that come with the blocks are extremlly adequate.... Never went over 50'C even when I had 100+ mv on both core and aux voltages.


----------



## szeged

I was pushing 1.5v + so any any extra cooling helped


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> I find it strange that everybody is screaming about thermal pads while the ones that come with the blocks are *extremlly adequate*.... Never went over 50'C even when I had 100+ mv on both core and aux voltages.


Why settle for extremely adequate when you can have stellar?


----------



## wermad

Lol, Im with king, just don't see the point unless you're trying to break records (and hardware







) .

Cheap stuff from ebay; haven't seen no difference vs the stock ek tbh.


----------



## skupples

I even wedge thermal pads between the back plate & the VRM area... Got the idea from Aquacomputer, as they recommend this with their 290X blocks. Stren hypothesized the drop in VRM temps from the Titan block to the 290X block could be in part, due to the extra thermals.

Wermad, It Diva has the new EK DDC kits.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I even wedge thermal pads between the back plate & the VRM area... Got the idea from Aquacomputer, as they recommend this with their 290X blocks. Stren hypothesized the drop in VRM temps from the Titan block to the 290X block could be in part, due to the extra thermals.
> 
> *Wermad, It Diva has the new EK DDC kits.*


I have 3 of them for my triple xspc top. Haven't hooked em up yet cuz i'm planning on painting em first.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Original super glue. Used only on the corners. LOL now hes asking how to remove it.


Super glue is liquid acrylic, so if he's glued into the acrylic part of the block then it's kind of impossible to remove without damaging. If he's glued on the metal side then you can shatter the glue with isopropyl alcohol.

Either way, you'll probably need a new o-ring.


----------



## niklot1981

__
https://flic.kr/p/kGgnFN



__
https://flic.kr/p/kGef7z



__
https://flic.kr/p/kGgzXG


----------



## derickwm

That looks great!


----------



## wermad

Well, my Tahitis don't run hot to begin with, so I'm not too worried.

@skupples, thank you sir







.

@nicklot1981, beautiful build there dude


----------



## dcatvn

Guys, so I bought the EK D5 X-RES Top 100 - Acetal and I think its a bit too small, I was wondering if I can just purchase the 140 tube instead of the whole thing.
And is it possible to mount the res on the HDD cage and still able to have the HD installed? I am using 900D.

Thank you


----------



## acanom

Hi again,

I have 2 questions regarding the EK Res X3 and the Multiport Top.

1. Why do I have to use the extender on certain ports and? it should be used with 3 4 6 but not 5, To me, all of them look exactly the same.

2. Do I need to use the extender with the ports of the multiport top,too? Because there is not manual delivered with the multiport top and the ports look like those the extender should be used for on the Res.

Thanks in advance


----------



## lowfat

@niklot1981 Nice background & lighting


----------



## Egami

Picked up a housing to complement the top



Dreamy creamy


----------



## iamkraine

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Picked up a housing to complement the top
> 
> 
> 
> Dreamy creamy






Looks great. I want one for my next build


----------



## szeged

So about dat 290x lightning block....







I need something to keep the card cool when it's not being covered in frost.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcatvn*
> 
> Guys, so I bought the EK D5 X-RES Top 100 - Acetal and I think its a bit too small, I was wondering if I can just purchase the 140 tube instead of the whole thing.
> And is it possible to mount the res on the HDD cage and still able to have the HD installed? I am using 900D.
> 
> Thank you


Yes. 110 150 250 400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Hi again,
> 
> I have 2 questions regarding the EK Res X3 and the Multiport Top.
> 
> 1. Why do I have to use the extender on certain ports and? it should be used with 3 4 6 but not 5, To me, all of them look exactly the same.
> 
> 2. Do I need to use the extender with the ports of the multiport top,too? Because there is not manual delivered with the multiport top and the ports look like those the extender should be used for on the Res.
> 
> Thanks in advance


1. Certain ports are recessed into the POM and requires the extender, otherwise the o-ring from the fitting alone will not make a good enough seal and will leak.

2. Yes, all ports that aren't flush require extenders.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> 1. Why do I have to use the extender on certain ports and? it should be used with 3 4 6 but not 5, To me, all of them look exactly the same.
> 
> 2. Do I need to use the extender with the ports of the multiport top,too? Because there is not manual delivered with the multiport top and the ports look like those the extender should be used for on the Res.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 2. Yes, all ports that aren't flush require extenders.


Excuses for plugging another company's fittings, but Monsoon rotaries, lightports, leds and temp sensors also fit into the EK RES-X3 recessed ports


----------



## Ryanboost

EK-TIM Ectotherm or GELID GC Ectreme?

Confused that Gelid comes with the CPU block but not the GPU blocks.

I've read GELID seems to be one of the best so my question is would it be better to use it or something else over the EK-TIM Ectotherm that came with the GPU blocks?


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 1. Certain ports are recessed into the POM and requires the extender, otherwise the o-ring from the fitting alone will not make a good enough seal and will leak.
> 
> 2. Yes, all ports that aren't flush require extenders.


Thank you.

I her the resessed part, but port 5 is also resessed and according to the manual no extension is needed. That is what bothers me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Excuses for plugging another company's fittings, but Monsoon rotaries, lightports, leds and temp sensors also fit into the EK RES-X3 recessed ports


. And you,too for the tip


----------



## inedenimadam

What type of fans does EK use with their kits? I have three and want more.

Just bought 10x of something else...cheap...


----------



## batmanwcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Excuses for plugging another company's fittings, but Monsoon rotaries, lightports, leds and temp sensors also fit into the EK RES-X3 recessed ports


So I can use my monsoon 90 degree rotaries on my DDC X-Res 100 and PE 240mm Rad's recessed ports without using their extenders and not have a leak?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Picked up a housing to complement the top


You need to polish the top and bottom like stat.


----------



## Egami

The bottom has a nickel coating like the blocks. As the surface beneath the coating is uneven logic tells me the nickel's going to be leaving before things get smooth enough for a shine?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> The bottom has a nickel coating like the blocks. As the surface beneath the coating is uneven logic tells me the nickel's going to be leaving before things get smooth enough for a shine?


I used Autosol polish for the nickel on my EK blocks. The difference was huge.


----------



## inedenimadam

As some that have been paying attention here have heard, I purchased mis-matched 7970's...like a TF3 and a DC2...just bought waterblocks for them both. I know its not going to line up for a bridge, not to mention its going to look funky as heck, but how much of an offset do you think these things are going to have? I am going over a triple slot, so I have some wiggle room, but dang...will I make it?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> As some that have been paying attention here have heard, I purchased mis-matched 7970's...like a TF3 and a DC2...just bought waterblocks for them both. I know its not going to line up for a bridge, not to mention its going to look funky as heck, but how much of an offset do you think these things are going to have? I am going over a triple slot, so I have some wiggle room, but dang...will I make it?


worst comes to worst you will just have to use standard flexible tubing w/ nipples/compression fittings.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> So I can use my monsoon 90 degree rotaries on my DDC X-Res 100 and PE 240mm Rad's recessed ports without using their extenders and not have a leak?


It's always possible to have a leak. They are quite a tight fit. I had a slow leak with one led fitting but it was easily fixed.

The PE rads are another story. The metal cover doesn't quite match the hole. I had to file it bigger. Needs a torx screwdriver to open it up.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I used Autosol polish for the nickel on my EK blocks. The difference was huge.


Hmm. Looks like the local shop has something called Autosol Kromglans. That it?


----------



## niklot1981

__
https://flic.kr/p/kHZUGB



__
https://flic.kr/p/kJ1tT4



__
https://flic.kr/p/kHZUJk



__
https://flic.kr/p/kHZUsD


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Hmm. Looks like the local shop has something called Autosol Kromglans. That it?


From my googling it looks to be the same stuff.


----------



## Ryanboost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanboost*
> 
> EK-TIM Ectotherm or GELID GC Ectreme?
> 
> Confused that Gelid comes with the CPU block but not the GPU blocks.
> 
> I've read GELID seems to be one of the best so my question is would it be better to use it or something else over the EK-TIM Ectotherm that came with the GPU blocks?


Hoping to get this answered by an EK guy if possible or somebody who has experience using both.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> As wermad stated we recommend you use the TIM that we include with our blocks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanboost*
> 
> Hoping to get this answered by an EK guy if possible or somebody who has experience using both.


Here, I hope this helps.

Also, having used both the EK branded TIM and the GC-Extreme, I didn't see much difference between them, either in temps or use.


----------



## Ryanboost

Perfect let the build commence. Thanks for the quick response!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanboost*
> 
> Perfect let the build commence. Thanks for the quick response!












Don't forget to post pics!!


----------



## inedenimadam

PPCS is quick with the order--->ship

Awww yeah...


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanboost*
> 
> EK-TIM Ectotherm or GELID GC Ectreme?
> 
> Confused that Gelid comes with the CPU block but not the GPU blocks.
> 
> I've read GELID seems to be one of the best so my question is would it be better to use it or something else over the EK-TIM Ectotherm that came with the GPU blocks?


We include/recommend GELID GC Extreme with/for CPU blocks and we include/recommend EK-TIM Ectotherm with/for GPU blocks. We do this on purpose from data we've collected.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 1. Certain ports are recessed into the POM and requires the extender, otherwise the o-ring from the fitting alone will not make a good enough seal and will leak.
> 
> 2. Yes, all ports that aren't flush require extenders.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> I her the resessed part, but port 5 is also resessed and according to the manual no extension is needed. That is what bothers me.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Excuses for plugging another company's fittings, but Monsoon rotaries, lightports, leds and temp sensors also fit into the EK RES-X3 recessed ports
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> . And you,too for the tip
Click to expand...

Port 5 should be fine to be used without an extender. If for some reason you find this not to be true, please let me know.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> From my googling it looks to be the same stuff.


You're my hero. +rep


----------



## wermad

Installed my DDC heatsink/housing:


----------



## inedenimadam

Got a question about waterblocks and pci slots. waterblocks are on their way, but need to get a sound card. I have killed my onboard sound.

I have a pci slot on either side of my second pci-e slot, and I need to get a sound card in one of those slots. Will the full coverage 7970 waterblock interfere with me installing a low profile, single slot sound card in either of the pci slots?

7970 tf3 with csq full cover block on a ASRock z77 extreme 4


----------



## derickwm

The PCI a lot above the pci-e slot will be fine. The one below the pci-e slot would be usable if you buy (or mod your own) the 7970 single slot IO bracket we offer.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The PCI a lot above the pci-e slot will be fine. The one below the pci-e slot would be usable if you buy (or mod your own) the 7970 single slot IO bracket we offer.


perfect. thanks for the quick response. I can get rid of this crappy usb sound card I have been using for the past few weeks.









Edit....one more question. what size screws should I be getting for fans to rads. I need to get about 40 of them. is it M3 x .5 x 25mm?


----------



## Lionheart1980

Hey, is EK's website down or something? I cannot get onto thier websites..


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Hey, is EK's website down or something? I cannot get onto thier websites..


No issues for me, I just checked the main site and the store. Both came up on my systems and phone.

Close your browser and clear all of its cookies.

P.s. IE and Firefox worked fine, chrome isn't bringing it up though. Which is fine for me, chrome is crap anyways.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> No issues for me, I just checked the main site and the store. Both came up on my systems and phone.
> 
> Close your browser and clear all of its cookies.
> 
> P.s. IE and Firefox worked fine, chrome isn't bringing it up though. Which is fine for me, chrome is crap anyways.


Nothing still, i'm using Firefox btw


----------



## derickwm

Working fine for me with Chrome.


----------



## kpoeticg

So i ended up painting my 3xEK DDC Heatsink Housings White like i wanted to. Thanks @snef for recommending the right type of paint. I sanded the black paint off first, without going crazy with it. Then put two light coats of VHT Engine Enamel Light Grey Primer, then 2 medium coats of the VHT Engine Enamel Glossy White. Plus one small touch-up coat because i handled them too early









I have em in the oven right now, cuz the VHT Can says to cure it by baking for an hour @200*F. Here's some pics =)


----------



## skupples

Looks good!

I think I may be ditching the titans for 3x 290X Lightnings.

do we know when blocks will be coming about?


----------



## derickwm

Shortly after launch, whenever that is.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Shortly after launch, whenever that is.


Ok... So then Soon™ since they are on the market as of yesterday I think it was.

eh... i'm still kinda second guessing it. It would be allot of work to flip the three titans, even if their resale value has gone up since going EOL. It would be a break even if lucky type of deal, though the AMD cards would theoretically retain better resale value, accept that maxwell is about to sweep the mining scene which will screw with AMD's resale values... Eh, meh... bleh... neh... sticking to my original plans, titans till volta or bust.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Shortly after launch, whenever that is.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok... So then Soon™ since they are on the market as of yesterday I think it was.
> 
> eh... i'm still kinda second guessing it. It would be allot of work to flip the three titans, even if their resale value has gone up since going EOL. It would be a break even if lucky type of deal, though the AMD cards would theoretically retain better resale value, accept that maxwell is about to sweep the mining scene which will screw with AMD's resale values... Eh, meh... bleh... neh... sticking to my original plans, titans till volta or bust.
Click to expand...

LOL had no idea they were out already. I'll get a more detailed answer tomorrow for everyone then.


----------



## skupples

They done did away with the gotti globe of blue ugliness! They instead replaced it with a strip of Blue LED's on the mid rear of the card.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> They done did away with the gotti globe of blue ugliness! They instead replaced it with a strip of Blue LED's on the mid rear of the card.


Don't need the gpu reactor because the 290x doesnt get clock blocked by a green light program









I may get one for ln2 testing.next week.


----------



## skupples

So true... Nvidia is going to start scaring off allot of their customer base if they continue to make it harder & harder to get past the voltage locks. Not everyone is going to be patient enough to wait for "KPE" style cards to come off the line.

Actually, what am I saying. Most of their consumer base is scared that +38mv is going to blow the lid.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Turns out a good number of my build log parts are EK. Not on purpose, it just slowly morphed into an EK heavy build.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Turns out a good number of my build log parts are EK. *Not on purpose*, it just slowly morphed into an EK heavy build.


Why not? EK FTW!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Turns out a good number of my build log parts are EK. Not on purpose, it just slowly morphed into an EK heavy build.


don't fear! It happens to the best of us!

Though i'm finally moving away from the XTX rads in my STH-10 rebuild. Will be adding 2x UT60 480's to compliment my 2x XTX 480x60's.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> don't fear! It happens to the best of us!
> 
> Though i'm finally moving away from the XTX rads in my STH-10 rebuild. Will be adding 2x UT60 480's to compliment my 2x *XTX 480x64's*.


Just fixing that dimension error.


----------



## skupples

supa fat!


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So true... Nvidia is going to start scaring off allot of their customer base if they continue to make it harder & harder to get past the voltage locks. Not everyone is going to be patient enough to wait for "KPE" style cards to come off the line.
> 
> Actually, what am I saying. Most of their consumer base is scared that +38mv is going to blow the lid.


I don't know I don't think we overclocking enthusiasts actually make up that many of their sales to be honest. Still a dumb idea on their part but Nvidia care more about short term revenue than long term customer loyalty which they think they have in the bag. It's not like 290's are overclocking miracles though, they can't push that far and reference cards at least power throttle super easily.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I was the same way, but then I read several people saying they switched to fuji poly and got much better temps. I figure why not? Dat tax return money burning a hole in my pocket!


Yeah I'm going to add some fuji poly pads into my 290 block roundup at the end to see what the difference is


----------



## skupples

Yeah... Like I said in the afterthought, the majority of GPU owners are scared that the extra 38mv will blow the lid.


----------



## acanom

If I go 2 770s in SLI, what´s the best solution ti connect them? Bridge,Terminal or Tubes?

And btw, what´s the difference between bridge and terminal?

And is it better to go serial or parallel?


----------



## skupples

I don't think it really matters which you use for dual-SLI, as far as serial/parallel goes.

I believe the new 770 blocks use the Terminal system, just like titan/780/780ti

This is the difference.

This is bridge


this is terminal



770's come in both Clean CSQ and original CSQ

This top type would use Bridge








this top type would use Terminal


----------



## acanom

Ahhh, thank you very much for that crystal clear explanation.

Could have figured that one out by myself. I´m a little bit ashamed right now









Thanks again, terminal it will be


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Thanks too bad I bought that separate jet plate #6 but it wasn't much money, I'll go ahead and install #2 then


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Here, I hope this helps.
> 
> Also, having used both the EK branded TIM and the GC-Extreme, I didn't see much difference between them, either in temps or use.


I mixed them not into a cake dough kinda recipe but used the "in the box stuff till it ran out and used the newegg bought packaga for the rest of the locations .... Though a nice decent size comes in the box, it was not enough to cover all the spots highlighted in the Block and backplate instructions.


----------



## acanom

Does it hurt to just put TIM under all the thermalpads? IF it´s non conductiv ofc.

Or really just the phase regulators?


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> If I go 2 770s in SLI, what´s the best solution ti connect them? Bridge,Terminal or Tubes?
> 
> And btw, what´s the difference between bridge and terminal?
> 
> And is it better to go serial or parallel?


Vote for direct connection fitting like THIS


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Does it hurt to just put TIM under all the thermalpads? IF it´s non conductiv ofc.
> 
> Or really just the phase regulators?


Doesn't hurt anything, in fact EK advises people to put bits of tim under the thermal pads.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Doesn't hurt anything, in fact EK advises people to put bits of tim under the thermal pads.


Eh, its just a way of saying, you only get enough pad so make it count and don't loose em. Why they ask you to use tim. Only HK has given me enough pad so I don't have to chop it up, especially for the vram.

Otherwise, just buy some. It ain't expensive for the fancy stuff or go w/ a cheap, but still great, large sheet from ebay (chinese sellers, shipping quickly now btw).

edit: pump mounted. Itty, bitty M4 screws they include don't cut w/ the thick CL panels. Luckily, i had some 6mm lying around


----------



## skupples

huh... iv'e never had issues running out of the stock thermal pads.

I just ordered 3 of those black DDC mounts. I'm just going to use left over pieces of old thermals.


----------



## wermad

I really like this heatsink/mount setup and its priced pretty good. Only quibble with be the screws for the rubber pegs/stands. They're a tad too short. Anyways, it was about time i fancy'd the ol' 35x housing


----------



## skupples

I have the Swiftech Heatsink, but it's A.) Really ugly, & B.) their thermal pads are disgusting & secrete oil. These should work out well! I went ahead and picked up a third MCP35x2 & the XSPC triple-DDC top as well. Tests show ~10-15% increase in flow rates @ 3500rpm, which isn't amazing, but it costs less than throwing out the MCP35x2 & getting 2x D5's. (if you don't include the price of the housings @ 25$ a piece)


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> If I go 2 770s in SLI, what´s the best solution ti connect them? Bridge,Terminal or Tubes?
> 
> And btw, what´s the difference between bridge and terminal?
> 
> And is it better to go serial or parallel?


I direct piped mine in parallel with no blocks or terminals. GPUs need much smaller flow rates because of their large size as compared with CPUs. My GPUs at half the flow run 39C with fans at max speed while CPU runs at 74C.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Does it hurt to just put TIM under all the thermalpads? IF it´s non conductiv ofc.
> Or really just the phase regulators?


I can't imagine a scenario where it helps on one chip and not on another.....so I put it on all pads / both sides.


----------



## gdubc

Putting the swiftech pump in those ek housings voids the warranty though right?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Putting the swiftech pump in those ek housings voids the warranty though right?


Yeah... The pumps have a seal sticker between the top & the bottom. They are extremely low quality. Mine have come off from heat alone.


----------



## inedenimadam

I know I am like a year + late, but I am more than just a little tickled at the quality and performance of EK 7970 blocks. I mean, I already knew that the CPU blocks were gravy, but man...these vga blocks are a work of art that you just dont get a good feel for until they are in your hands and in your machine.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Putting the swiftech pump in those ek housings voids the warranty though right?


Any modification to Swiftech branded pumps voids the warranty (which is incredibly stupid, mind you).


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I know I am like a year + late, but I am more than just a little tickled at the quality and performance of EK 7970 blocks. I mean, I already knew that the CPU blocks were gravy, but man...these vga blocks are a work of art that you just dont get a good feel for until they are in your hands and in your machine.


HeatKiller and AquaComputer make the smexiest blocks around imho. From time to time, some others are pretty smexy too


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> HeatKiller and AquaComputer make the smexiest blocks around imho. From time to time, some others are pretty smexy too


Not a big fan of HK's aesthetics, but AC makes gorgeous GPU water blocks. Their CPU water blocks on the other hand aren't that great looking imo. EK is the most consistent manufacturer when it comes to making attractive blocks imo.


----------



## Anoxy

Should I rotate my Supremacy block 90 degrees? It's just an overclocked 3570k so nothing too extreme. I just always see people say to rotate these blocks.


----------



## derickwm

Unless you're really concerned with shaving maybe a degree or two off, I wouldn't bother. Much hassle.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Can one use the EK double d5 serial top and join it seamlessly with an X3 res?


----------



## King4x4

Yes.

This is the top:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/d5-series/ek-d5-dual-top-g1-4-csq-black-acetal.html

You use this as an adapter:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/d5-series/ek-dual-d5-csq-x-res-link.html


----------



## Neo Zuko

Thanks, that is So perfect.


----------



## King4x4

I know!

built two of them for two clients... Smexy pushing a lot of water


----------



## Neo Zuko

EK needs some glass reservoirs though. The XSPC Photons are cool.


----------



## nepToon

I'm wondering, since the 7970 - r9 280X compability in water blocks: is the 280x Backplate http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-r9-280x-dcii-backplate-black.html compatible with a 7970 reference pcb? Trying to ditch my CSQ 7970 backplate. I don't like the circles and the other available 7970 backplate has a cutout which I dislike (http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109856192)

I'm looking for this very clean design, like the r9 290x backplate


----------



## FractinJex

Hey all completed my first water loop...nothing special used the EK l360 kit since thye had it local microcenter...only cooling the cpu so figured didn't need a crazy pump or anything







hope I did good...looks good to me and is cooling nicely...keeping my 4770k under 75c at 1.46 vcore delided

heard the tubes will blacken everything but ill clean it in 8 months or sometin..lol also I really liked the tubing as it matched the flat blacxk look vs the primochill tubes


----------



## King4x4

It seems the new EK PE Coolstream rads share the same design as the XSPC AX while being cheaper


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FractinJex*
> 
> Hey all completed my first water loop...nothing special used the EK l360 kit since thye had it local microcenter...only cooling the cpu so figured didn't need a crazy pump or anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope I did good...looks good to me and is cooling nicely...keeping my 4770k under 75c at 1.46 vcore delided
> 
> heard the tubes will blacken everything but ill clean it in 8 months or sometin..lol also I really liked the tubing as it matched the flat blacxk look vs the primochill tubes


that wouldnt be the local chicago microcenter would it? they had an EK 360 kit that is now not there.


----------



## FractinJex

nope ha im down in texas









btw its super quite Im loving it a lot!


----------



## lowfat

Minus whale spam here as well.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-10-8.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-13-6.jpg.html


----------



## siffonen

Nice looking expect the scratches which ruins the build


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zazuzi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I´ll have to say, that I´m really disappointed how EK handels orders.
> 
> You pay the extra money for an express delivery, and it takes them 4 days to ship the order. Which is bad enough, but in addition the express service doesn´t deliver on saturdays. Combined with the 4 days to get the shipment going, that ends in nearly a whole week for an "express" delivery....


Do you happen to be in the states? EK is in Slovenia, things take awhile when shipping internationally, unless you are Aquatuning/Aquacomputer. They are hax with international shipping.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/1a5enfj

Got a 120 rad for the rear of my TJ08-E.


----------



## skupples

Those new rads sure are clean! Much lower profile than the XTX series too.


----------



## khemist

Yeah, i bought this as i needed a slimmer rad that doesn't cover any of the cpu block, my RX120 was just too thick.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zazuzi*
> 
> I´ll have to say, that I´m really disappointed how EK handels orders.
> 
> You pay the extra money for an express delivery, and it takes them 4 days to ship the order. Which is bad enough, but in addition the express service doesn´t deliver on saturdays. Combined with the 4 days to get the shipment going, that ends in nearly a whole week for an "express" delivery....


We ship when things are in stock and when our small team (two guys) can get the packages out. Express delivery is DHL's international method, it doesn't guarantee it gets there the next day. I've seen orders made on Tuesday night, packed Wednesday morning and arrive Friday morning.

It mostly depends on stock, with production constantly at 100% and backed up with orders to constantly fill, our online stock status isn't entirely accurate as things come in and then go out immediately.

Also keep in mind we are based in a small city in a very small country.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> I'm wondering, since the 7970 - r9 280X compability in water blocks: is the 280x Backplate http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-r9-280x-dcii-backplate-black.html compatible with a 7970 reference pcb? Trying to ditch my CSQ 7970 backplate. I don't like the circles and the other available 7970 backplate has a cutout which I dislike (http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109856192)
> 
> I'm looking for this very clean design, like the r9 290x backplate


You can check compatibility here:http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109868720

That backplate is only meant for the 280X DC2. We don't plan on bringing this clean design to the old 7970 reference. There is the design with our logo cutout and csq.


----------



## King4x4

Damn... Those PE rads are super clean!

Got a shipment for the store incoming soonish... might do a fast review on them vs the old XT rads.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Damn... Those PE rads are super clean!
> 
> Got a shipment for the store incoming soonish... might do a fast review on them vs the old XT rads.


I added one to the loop, they look nice and perform well. I have a mix of XTX and PE now.


----------



## seross69

Derrick can you tell me if the EK-D5 Cover Kit will work with the dual D5 Tops? Like the EK-D5 DUAL-TOP-CSQ-BK?? Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Derrick can you tell me if the EK-D5 Cover Kit will work with the dual D5 Tops? Like the EK-D5 DUAL-TOP-CSQ-BK?? Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.


I want to know this as well, will it work, and will it work with the stand thingy?


----------



## derickwm

Unfortunately it isn't compatible with the dual top. Just X-Res and X-top series.


----------



## skupples

@Wermad Does the EK DDC kit come with thermal padding?


----------



## gdubc

^ mine did


----------



## skupples

Thx! +1


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Unfortunately it isn't compatible with the dual top. Just X-Res and X-top series.


Just to make sure, how about using the EK D5 nickel cover specifically with the new EK Res D5 Vario and or EK Res X3 400 (one pump joined seamlessly to the res)? Does either of those work?


----------



## sios04

supremacy clean csq for my new water cooling system..


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Unfortunately it isn't compatible with the dual top. Just X-Res and X-top series.
> 
> 
> 
> Just to make sure, how about using the EK D5 nickel cover specifically with the new EK Res D5 Vario and or EK Res X3 400 (one pump joined seamlessly to the res)? Does either of those work?
Click to expand...

Link to products/combinations you're referring to.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Basically I want to use the this:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/d5-series/ek-d5-cover-kit-nickel-acetal.html

Seamlessly (both products flush mounted to each other) with this:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-bay-res-d5-vario-incl-pump.html

And also seamlessly with this:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoirs/ek-res-x3-series/ek-res-x3-400.html

Of course both with D5 pumps, but I have not decided which D5 pump between this Vario one:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-d5-vario-motor-laing-d5-vario-motor.html

Or this PWM one:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-d5-pwm-motor-12v-dc-pwm-pump-motor.html

Any thoughts on any of that?

EDIT: I noted that the PWM one is not made by Laing...

EDIT: In these cases I am talking about single pumps as you stated already that the dual pump top does not work with the shiny covers.


----------



## skupples

Dual res in the same loop, specially bay + tube = major PITA. I know allot of people who have tried to do it, and have ended up throwing the bay res out.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Just how hard could it be? Why did they give up? I just really like the idea of looking at the water I guess. I was even going to through in a Photon 170 or two.


----------



## skupples

Each res adds bleeding issues, the more of them, the more of a PITA it becomes.

4 reservoirs on one loop? That sounds like a nightmare waiting to happen.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Not to mention the added restriction, and the fact that bay reservoirs are difficult to bleed in the first place. Pointless. It's like throwing dummy blocks in a loop for aesthetics... generally not recommended.


----------



## wermad

New case for my ek blocks


----------



## Neo Zuko

I suppose I could cut it down to two. I really want the two tho. Plus I'll have at least two pumps.


----------



## Kenerd

Hey guys I have the z87 of force I'm currently trifiring 2 7950's and a 7970. I have 2 Ek blocks connected at the first and third slot of my mobo. I have a sapphire dualx 7950 in the bottom slot right above the PSU in my 650D. A full cover block is not available for this card.









When I try and move the the watercooled cards down to the third and bottom slot. The 7970csq/nickel block won't slide all the way into the pcie express because the block is hitting almost every header at the bottom of my mobo(HDAudio,USB,power, grounds for front panel and a couple fan headers.

Any ideas?

Also I saw a post by tsm106 I believe about modifying a water block to fit a sapphire 7950 vaporx. Anyone try something like that on the dualx. I might just sell it I hate the fact I can't add it to the loop. Total impulse buy from craigslist for 300.


----------



## wermad

Once you're in that 4th bottom slot, its hard to keep your connections (ie headers). I lost everything on my Sniper5 Z87 but with the RIVE X79, i was able to squeeze in some small header cables to keep the power/reset/pwr/hdd led's. Some blocks do give you space to clear while others, like my Lightning blocks, don't







.

Why not sell it and get a reference 7950 to eventually block it?


----------



## Kenerd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Once you're in that 4th bottom slot, its hard to keep your connections (ie headers). I lost everything on my Sniper5 Z87 but with the RIVE X79, i was able to squeeze in some small header cables to keep the power/reset/pwr/hdd led's. Some blocks do give you space to clear while others, like my Lightning blocks, don't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Why not sell it and get a reference 7950 to eventually block it?


Thanks ya I was thinking that's my only option the only thing that sucks is I use the wireless antenna currently so I would lose that also I have a wireless card but it's not as good. I'm moving in a few months so don't feel like running cable through the house.

I know I could sell it but I broke one of the fan blades on the dualx cooler so I have my MSI 7970 TF3 heatsink on it. I had to bend 5 fins to get it to mount so I'm not exactly sure if that's a selling point.


----------



## wermad

I have a pcie 1x riser cable to connect my sound card since the quad 7970 lightnings take up all the boards space.


----------



## King4x4

PCIE Riser









Freaking love that ribbon!

Mine will be arriving soonish (Any day) so I can plug in my Sound Blaster Zx and finish my hydra 2 build.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Basically I want to use the this:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/d5-series/ek-d5-cover-kit-nickel-acetal.html
> 
> Seamlessly (both products flush mounted to each other) with this:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-bay-res-d5-vario-incl-pump.html
> 
> And also seamlessly with this:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoirs/ek-res-x3-series/ek-res-x3-400.html
> 
> Of course both with D5 pumps, but I have not decided which D5 pump between this Vario one:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-d5-vario-motor-laing-d5-vario-motor.html
> 
> Or this PWM one:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-d5-pwm-motor-12v-dc-pwm-pump-motor.html
> 
> Any thoughts on any of that?
> 
> EDIT: I noted that the PWM one is not made by Laing...
> 
> EDIT: In these cases I am talking about single pumps as you stated already that the dual pump top does not work with the shiny covers.


The D5 cover kit is compatible with the EK-D5 Bay Res, we will update the site soon to reflect this.

I'm confused by what you mean by "seamlessly" with the X3 Res as the D5 doesn't connect seamlessly with it? It's just an external res... You can buy the D5 X-Res and then a 400mm tube however and you'd get the desired effect that I assume you're wanting, which would be compatible with the D5 Cover kit.

All D5 pumps are basically the same minus what cables come out of them so unless we state specifically that certain models aren't compatible (which we don't), they are compatible with D5 Cover kit.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> New case for my ek blocks


----------



## acanom

What speed would you recommend to set the EK-D5 Vario on?

With X-Top ,1 GPU +1 CPU +1 45x420mm Rad +1 60x420mm Rad in the loop?

Thank you!


----------



## wermad

From what i hear, #4 seems to be best compromise in noise and performance. I know the "B" model is permanently fixed at #4.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Minus whale spam here as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-10-8.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-13-6.jpg.html


Hey, i have a question, how did you make the frosted looks on the EK CSQ waterblock disappear? I really like the glassed looks of it and i have similar blocks as the linking system as well..


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Hey, i have a question, how did you make the frosted looks on the EK CSQ waterblock disappear? I really like the glassed looks of it and i have similar blocks as the linking system as well..


Theres all kinds of EDU's on it. Do some googling.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Theres all kinds of EDU's on it. Do some googling.


EDU?


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> EDU?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1313632/ek-supremacy-as-it-should-be
http://www.overclock.net/t/1459270/remove-frosted-look-on-ek-block

Something along the line:" 2000 grit wet and dry with soapy water for about 2 mins each block then used chrome polish."


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> EDU?


EDU is a educational post.

Here is a thread that will teach you how to polish the blocks. Lowfat will probably tell you exactly how he does it but this will get you started.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1434852/ek-waterblock-polishing-guide/0_40


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> From what i hear, #4 seems to be best compromise in noise and performance. I know the "B" model is permanently fixed at #4.


Ok, thank you for the input. I´ll test the temps with the pump on 4 then and try to reduce it to 3 later and see how the temps behave


----------



## lowfat

Only 2000 grit and 10 minutes is isn't enough to get the blocks looking good. You need to start wet sanding at 1000 grit. It will also take a lot longer than 10 minutes for each block.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Thanks, I just meant that they join flush as in no gaps to be joined via tubes. One piece when assembled.


----------



## Chimera1970

So how exactly does one join the EK Club? I tried filling out the form, but got an error message telling me that nothing could be found (Google Docs).

I just got myself:
EK-FC R9-290X (Nickel Acetal)
EK-FC R9-290X Backplate (Black)

Plan on getting very soon:
EK CoolStream 120 XT Series Liquid Cooling RAD


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chimera1970*
> 
> So how exactly does one join the EK Club? I tried filling out the form, but got an error message telling me that nothing could be found (Google Docs).
> 
> I just got myself:
> EK-FC R9-290X (Nickel Acetal)
> EK-FC R9-290X Backplate (Black)
> 
> Plan on getting very soon:
> EK CoolStream 120 XT Series Liquid Cooling RAD


I didn't even know there was a form in the OP to fill out.








I've just been hanging around and posting pictures of my EK gear to be apart of the "club"
Throw some pics up.


----------



## Chimera1970

You have to look under the spoiler tag to find two links to a document that you're supposed to fill out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triangle*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK CLUB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) PURPOSE
> The purpose of this club is for people who are EK product owners to come and talk about EK, their builds, etc.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 2) JOINING
> To join all you have to do is fill out the form that is linked below and post what you have. (Blocks, pumps, reservoirs, fittings, radiators, etc.) You may post photos of your rig/rigs.
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> :cheers::devil:[URL=http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/993624-ek-club.html][B][U]EK Club[/U][/B][/URL]:devil::cheers:
> 
> ^^That is just what it is for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *FORM - PLEASE ADD YOURSELF..!*
> 
> INFO : If you have an upgrade from the first time you fill the form out, please just fill it out again for now and I will fix it manually.
> 
> *EK Club*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I didn't even know there was a form in the OP to fill out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've just been hanging around and posting pictures of my EK gear to be apart of the "club"
> Throw some pics up.


----------



## Kamtzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chimera1970*
> 
> You have to look under the spoiler tag to find two links to a document that you're supposed to fill out.


Those links don't work


----------



## Chimera1970

I know


----------



## PCModderMike

Looks like OP rarely gets on, so doubt those links will get fixed anytime soon. Like I said, just hang and post some pics up.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> *New Full-Cover water blocks in the works (March 2014)*
> 
> EK Water Blocks, Ljubljana based premium water cooling gear manufacturer, is working on a plethora of new Full Cover water blocks, namely for the following graphics cards:
> 
> ASUS GTX780TI-DC2 DirectCU II EK-FC780 GTX Ti DCII 104,95€
> ASUS ROG Matrix GTX 780 Ti EK-FC780 GTX Ti Matrix TBA
> ASUS ROG Matrix R9 290X EK-FC R9-290X Matrix TBA
> MSI R9 290X Lightning EK-FC R9-290X Lightning TBA
> 
> These upcoming Full Cover water blocks are engineered in cooperation with ASUS® and MSI® for the aforementioned flagship performance GeForce® GTX 780 Ti and Radeon R9 290X based graphics cards. These water coolers will directly cool the GPU, RAM as well as VRM (voltage regulation module) as water will flow directly over these critical areas thus allowing the graphics card and it's VRM to remain stable under high overclocks.
> 
> All four water blocks will feature side-attached Terminal port system - up to four water blocks could be used on a single ATX form factor motherboard by using EK-FC Terminal (DUAL, TRIPLE or QUAD type) system or other means of interconnectivity. All water blocks will also feature a very high flow design allowing the products to be used in liquid cooling systems using weaker water pumps. Due to the non-standardized width of the circuit boards these water blocks will not line up with any other EK Full Cover water block.
> 
> In order to simplify the search for suitable and compatible water block EK is adding newly released graphics cards from various manufacturers to EK Cooling Configurator database and compatible graphics cards are being added to the list on daily basis:
> 
> EK-FC780 GTX Ti DCII is scheduled for release on March 17th 2014 through EK Webshop and Partner Reseller Network, as well as the EK-FC R9-290X DCII announced earlier this year. This water block is designed for GeForce GTX 780 Ti version but is 100% backwards compatible with non-Ti version. This water block superseds the existing EK-FC780 GTX DCII which will be phased out of production. A new EK-FC780 GTX Ti DCII Backplate will also be released.
> 
> EK-FC R9-290X Lightning is scheduled for release in first half of April 2014, followed by both Matrix water blocks by early May.
> 
> EK Water Blocks is also working on a new value oriented water block for the NVIDIA® Maxwell GM107 GPU based GeForce® GTX 750- and GTX 750 Ti series graphics cards. EK-FC750 GTX will again feature single-slot design to free adjacent PCI(e) slot and allow stacking of these graphics cards. Due to variety of NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 750 (Ti) circuit board designs and no prescribed standard this water block will directly cool GPU and RAM only in order to maximize hardware compatibility.


Source


----------



## Chimera1970

I won't start putting my watercooling unit together until after I move, everything is still packaged up, ready to get played with








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Looks like OP rarely gets on, so doubt those links will get fixed anytime soon. Like I said, just hang and post some pics up.


----------



## PCModderMike

Lovely.


----------



## MiiX

Aesthetics doesn't matter, which has less maintenance/least amount of "problems"(Nickle that flakes etc)?
Alphacool UT45 + Supremacy Acetal/Plexi + Copper
Alphacool UT45 + Supremacy Acetal/Plexi + Nickel

Will use it with EK Bloody Red, EK D5 X-RES 100 and EK CSQ fittings.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Aesthetics doesn't matter, which has less maintenance/least amount of "problems"(Nickle that flakes etc)?
> Alphacool UT45 + Supremacy Acetal/Plexi + Copper
> Alphacool UT45 + Supremacy Acetal/Plexi + Nickel
> 
> Will use it with EK Bloody Red, EK D5 X-RES 100 and EK CSQ fittings.


I personally believe most cases of nickel corrosion are user error these days.

Copper is definitely lower maintenance, but you want to run proper coolants either way. Anti-corrosive, anti-bacteria/algae is a must. You can't keep things from corroding, but you can definitely prolong their life.

Mayem's X1 is a top notch product, & worth every penny.

My opinion would be to go with the copper block.


----------



## MiiX

How will the warranty be if I went with X1 and EK blocks? Copper is also cheaper, which in my case is a definite plus.


----------



## PCModderMike

I always love how clean EK products look.


----------



## lowfat

That is really making me want to grab a D5 w/ the nickel pump cover + a CSQ top.


----------



## PCModderMike

Their pump cover is a nice alternative to what BP offers, and not as expensive.


----------



## p33k

Is there a waterblock for the Asus 290 dc2? Thanks!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Is there a waterblock for the Asus 290 dc2? Thanks!


http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist

the configuration shows two blocks for it, but no prices, so it's either sold out, or coming out soon. EK is @ 100% capacity 24/7 these days.


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist
> 
> the configuration shows two blocks for it, but no prices, so it's either sold out, or coming out soon. EK is @ 100% capacity 24/7 these days.


Yeah I saw that and was wondering what it meant. I got 2 on the way so hope I can get underwater soon. They were supposed to be reference but something happened...


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I always love how clean EK products look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I want it. Oh my god, I want it bad. Good job Mike. I already have a res and pump, but now I need to have this









Make the molex connectors black


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I always love how clean EK products look.


:drool:


----------



## PCModderMike




----------



## hehenri

Got my build ready. Really liking these EK's products!


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Yeah I saw that and was wondering what it meant. I got 2 on the way so hope I can get underwater soon. They were supposed to be reference but something happened...


The waterblock for 290 DC2 is not available in the store yet.
If it will be ready to be sold, you will see the basket or trolley icon there.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hehenri*
> 
> Got my build ready. Really liking these EK's products!


Great looking build , very clean tidy and colour coordinated.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Does anyone know the thermal pad size for the EK Titan FC blocks? I need to order replacements, but can't find the size.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## VSG

They should be all 0.5mm thick based on the installation manual (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109857106.pdf). Just get a sheet of pads of this thickness and call it a day.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> They should be all 0.5mm thick based on the installation manual (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109857106.pdf). Just get a sheet of pads of this thickness and call it a day.


+1:thumb:

Thanks brother.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Both of my Titan Blocks leaked. One Titan is now dead, the other one survived, but had a nice trail of EK coolant headed its way.

My luck just hasn't been good with these gpu blocks.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Both of my Titan Blocks leaked. One Titan is now dead, the other one survived, but had a nice trail of EK coolant headed its way.
> 
> My luck just hasn't been good with these gpu blocks.


were those new blocks? Or were they the replacement plates?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Both of my Titan Blocks leaked. One Titan is now dead, the other one survived, but had a nice trail of EK coolant headed its way.
> 
> My luck just hasn't been good with these gpu blocks.


Hopefully it was an evga so you won't have to worry about being denied on the RMA!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> were those new blocks? Or were they the replacement plates?


Those were the replecenents, the O rings just didnt hold up. Same on both blocks.

It's hard to see, but there is coolant around the screw holes. All screws were tight, everything was done right.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Those were the replecenents, the O rings just didnt hold up. Same on both blocks.
> 
> It's hard to see, but there is coolant around the screw holes. All screws were tight, everything was done right.


Did they send you new o-rings?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Did they send you new o-rings?


Nope, they said they were as well as new thermal pads, but nothing other than the base plates were sent. I asked frozen, but they said there was nothing they could do even when they have plenty in stock.


----------



## cdnGhost

Just curious, I have this DDC 3.25 pump and was wondering if the heatsink housing is worth getting? or are they not needed?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdnGhost*
> 
> Just curious, I have this DDC 3.25 pump and was wondering if the heatsink housing is worth getting? or are they not needed?


It's worth getting, not only for the better heat dissipation, but the vibration damping is pretty cool too.


----------



## derickwm

Extends the life of your pump a little as well


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Extends the life of your pump a little as well


And it makes you a little bit more attractive to members of the opposite gender


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> And it makes you a little bit more attractive to members of the opposite gender


However, we don't cover that under warranty


----------



## VSG

That explains EK hiring you for your looks then- no need for the heatsink housing!


----------



## derickwm

Exactly, I bring my own benefits to the table!


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Both of my Titan Blocks leaked. One Titan is now dead, the other one survived, but had a nice trail of EK coolant headed its way.
> 
> My luck just hasn't been good with these gpu blocks.


Oh crap. commiserations.


----------



## King4x4

WTB EK-Ascandy!
Got 61 pwm fans to test it on!
CPU-OPT is the only option and doesn't allow me to modulate the speeds. It's either 2200rpm or dead silent 900rpm.
And I like EK gear!
Everything water related to WC on the hydra 2 is ekwb... now gimme a fan controller!


----------



## derickwm

Guess US Customs was a little bit more suspicious of this order from EK. Never seen this tape before from any of my international packages.

Of course none of them have ever been huge and weighed 36lbs before ha.


----------



## skupples

36 pounds? Did they send you everything on the left side of the menu?


----------



## derickwm

Dat 50ft of tubing hnnng


----------



## King4x4

36 pounds?
Puny human!
My order came in weighting over 56 pounds!

Proof:


----------



## derickwm

Need to step up my game D:


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 50ft of tubing


are you doing a rad box in another room or something?


----------



## derickwm

Nah, just stocking up. Love the stuff, matte black goes with almost everything. Also I'd rather not stress about a simple thing such as having a lack of tubing.


----------



## VSG

The motherland does not love you as much as others, Derick.


----------



## derickwm

Apparently not


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> Dat 50ft of tubing hnnng


All dat tubing...shown off in potato vision at it's finest.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's worth getting, not only for the better heat dissipation, but the vibration damping is pretty cool too.


Why is it not default?


----------



## cdnGhost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Why is it not default?


No kidding...
but they are made by the different companies (EK, Swiftech etc) that re-brand the DDC pumps... not Liang

Too bad they dont come stock like that....useful feature not to mention the ylook better.


----------



## Anoxy

Hey guys, I have the EK dual parallel bridge here....I see that the port on the right is larger than the one on the left. When I went to use that larger right port, it leaked. Is there any way to use that port, or do I have to use the smaller one on the left? Am I just supposed to drop an O-ring in the larger port to prevent leakage?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Hey guys, I have the EK dual parallel bridge here....I see that the port on the right is larger than the one on the left. When I went to use that larger right port, it leaked. Is there any way to use that port, or do I have to use the smaller one on the left? Am I just supposed to drop an O-ring in the larger port to prevent leakage?


Its in the manual. The port is not a different size it is just recessed. To use it you need to use an extender fitting because other fittings will be too wide to seal.
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868072.pdf


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Hey guys, I have the EK dual parallel bridge here....I see that the port on the right is larger than the one on the left. When I went to use that
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> larger right port, it leaked. Is there any way to use that port, or do I have to use the smaller one on the left? Am I just supposed to drop an O-ring in the larger port to prevent leakage?


your GPU blocks should have come with extra O-rings & metal rings, use one of those.


----------



## Anoxy

Yeah I tried the metal rings, but they don't fit, and adding an o-ring didn't stop the leakage. That's unfortunate...why would they design the port like that and not like the other ones?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Its designed that way so that a stop fitting is flush with the bridge.


----------



## Anoxy

Ah, makes sense. I googled for a "G 1/45" extender that they mention in the manual, but can't seem to find anything. I found this, but it only comes in nickel...I would prefer black to match everything else.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ah, makes sense. I googled for a "G 1/45" extender that they mention in the manual, but can't seem to find anything. I found this, but it only comes in nickel...I would prefer black to match everything else.


http://koolance.com/nozzle-coupling-adapter-black-male-female

Is 17mm outer diameter. Might just fit. Do you have a Vernier caliper (slidy ruler with prongs) to make an exact measurement of the diameter of the recessed port?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ah, makes sense. I googled for a "G 1/45" extender that they mention in the manual, but can't seem to find anything. I found this, but it only comes in nickel...I would prefer black to match everything else.


Yeah that is the one that fits. I just bought half a dozen of them because nearly all other fittings are too wide.


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Apparently not


Hi derickwm, do you have some nickel backplate for gtx580.
I've checked many online store but I can't find it.


----------



## derickwm

Sorry man we don't have any of those.


----------



## Anoxy

So I was checking out my options for an alternative to the dual parallel bridge, since the ports are slightly off for me. Am I correct that the dual serial bridge's ports are reversed compared to the dual parallel?


----------



## skupples

You should just use SLI links. The bridges cover up so mucg sexy!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So I was checking out my options for an alternative to the dual parallel bridge, since the ports are slightly off for me. Am I correct that the dual serial bridge's ports are reversed compared to the dual parallel?


----------



## Lionheart1980

First ever build log and my first watercooling build with EK waterblocks!








http://www.overclock.net/t/1474715/build-log-genesis-tron-my-1st-build-log/0_20


----------



## skupples

I'm using SLI links this time around so that i can run two cards in parallel & the third card in serial. I would use an EK link, if they made one that did this.


----------



## VSG

They have semi parallel with their quad terminals only, and I bet you can make it look great with the links alone. With 2 cards, I prefer their terminal for ease of installation and a secondary support to both cards.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> You should just use SLI links. The bridges cover up so mucg sexy!


Yeah, I'm running a black Bitspower adjustable SLI link right now, with my cards in serial, but I almost prefer the look of the block bridge.

It would only be covering something up if you're running acrylic blocks in reverse atx though...

the crystal link tubes look strange with my 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tubing and fittings....If I was running small diameter or acrylic they'd look great.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So I was checking out my options for an alternative to the dual parallel bridge, since the ports are slightly off for me. Am I correct that the dual serial bridge's ports are reversed compared to the dual parallel?


3 Choices

1. Bridge
2. Crystal Link
3. Separate plumbing

Since ya know the 1st two, here's an example of 3rd option.


----------



## kpoeticg

Great work. Rig looks awesome!!


----------



## Hefner

How long do you guys reckon I will need to bleed my EK DDC 3.2 PWM pump xres combo? After more than 12 hours the pump is still very loud, even at 25% PWM. I also put some rubber between the mounting bracket and the pump, and the mounting bracket and the case to counter vibrations. I'm also using the foam instead of the anticyclone.

The sound is quite clearly coming from within the pump. It's like a ticking/whirring sound.


----------



## iamkraine

GTX 780 waterblock. I love the way the FC Link looks.





I'm thinking of putting the EK logo on my window that would be in the corner. Would take up about 1/5 of the window.


----------



## PinzaC55

Looks great! Re the logo I would advise against it, personally. A couple of years ago I was thinking of putting some of the case stickers from my gear on my case so I googled the question "should I put case stickers on my case?" and the consensus of opinion was "if you have built a high end rig you KNOW what components are inside and you don't need to advertise the fact".


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Looks great! Re the logo I would advise against it, personally. A couple of years ago I was thinking of putting some of the case stickers from my gear on my case so I googled the question "should I put case stickers on my case?" and the consensus of opinion was "if you have built a high end rig you KNOW what components are inside and you don't need to advertise the fact".


Well if EK was to give me some free gear I would definitely do it. Hint hint nudge nudge.


----------



## lowfat

IMHO the ONLY time someone should be advertising on their systems for manufacturers if they are getting paid. Either in cash or in free merchandise.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Nobody told me I should be getting paid to wear Nike and drive Honda's...


----------



## Martyfish78

Some info from EK, if whether they plan to release something like this  for 780??


----------



## lowfat

They already have nickel / clear acrylic 780 blocks.


----------



## Martyfish78

Realy? I did not find any like this.. They have similar, but not fullcover(just a part of card) or with that circles like Iamkraine posted.


EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Nickel
EAN: 3831109868638

i hope you understand me


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martyfish78*
> 
> Realy? I did not find any like this.. They have similar, but not fullcover(just a part of card) or with that circles like Iamkraine posted.


There was the Titan SE version that was full length acrylic but it looked odd and hardly anyone bought them so they were discontinued when the 780ti was released.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-titan-se.html


----------



## lowfat

Clear acrylic blocks that cover the entire pcb are not being manufacturered anymore. There wasn't enough interest.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Nobody told me I should be getting paid to wear Nike and drive Honda's...


True but if you were at a dinner party and a guy came in wearing an Armani suit with a big red "ARMANI" logo on the lapels and back it might cause a few raised eyebrows.


----------



## Martyfish78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Clear acrylic blocks that cover the entire pcb are not being manufacturered anymore. There wasn't enough interest.


Thats sad







but i hope 
+


in 

will be nice...

obv clear GPU will be better..


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

I take it all back! RMA is in the mail!!!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There was the Titan SE version that was full length acrylic but it looked odd and hardly anyone bought them so they were discontinued when the 780ti was released.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-titan-se.html


I will be posting mine on sale soon. New O ring seals came in and Just have to swap back the nickel plates.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> True but if you were at a dinner party and a guy came in wearing an Armani suit with a big red "ARMANI" logo on the lapels and back it might cause a few raised eyebrows.


"Gangsters" do it all the time.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1295

Why must EK make a block and only allow me to buy a nickel plated block?


----------



## darwing

Gold Rush Part 4 - Custom Paint, Final Mounting, Lighting, Acrylic Plating.

In this build-log update I pay close attention to the smaller details of the build, screw paintings, acrylic paneling and a full re-do of the paint job. I finally mount the front as well as get the radiators put in.

When I hit 100 subscribers Im going to hold another contest so stay tuned and keep the comments coming they will increase your chances of winning.


----------



## Chimera1970

Funny you guys mentioning advertising for EK.

People pay Harley-Davidson to advertise THEIR stuff LOL. $55 for a t-shirt that you could get at Walmart, for $10. The only difference is that H-D puts their name on it...and people gladly buy them!

I'd like to build an entire loop with nothing but EK products in the future, and one with nothing but XSPC and compare them to see which one would run cooler.


----------



## skupples

this was just posted over in the R4BE thread... All I have to say is...


----------



## szeged

Sorry ek but dats ugly


----------



## BradleyW

I really like it a lot.


----------



## VSG

They said they would have it in all their usual flavors so an all nickel or all copper plexi/acetal would likely look better than this confused mix up.


----------



## skupples

A board specific CPU + vrm blok just seems weird
.. Though I guess They have done it for the SFF motherboards.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Sorry ek but dats ugly


Agreed. Looks rather terrible. Way too busy.


----------



## batmanwcm

Time to join the club. I love the aesthetics of EK products.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1295
> 
> Why must EK make a block and only allow me to buy a nickel plated block?


Most popular style demanded :/ we can't make our retailers carry 4+ SKUs every time we release a new product.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Sorry ek but dats ugly
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed. Looks rather terrible. Way too busy.
Click to expand...

You guys are so entertaining. This is a sample simply to show a preview. The variations will be Nickel Plexi, Nickel Acetal, CSQ Nickel Plexi and CSQ Nickel Acetal. It'll be much cleaner.


----------



## szeged

I figured that was just a preview when it had copper and nickel, I just don't like the all in one thing really. I prefer a supremacy and individual mobo blocks


----------



## Neo Zuko

I like the mono blocks a lot and they perform better to boot.


----------



## szeged

Let's forget cpu blocks for a second here and talk cpu pots for a minute









Hey derick, any info on how the ek cpu ln2 pot does with DICE? I have a kingpin Dragon f1 extreme atm and it's stupid good so far, was just curious how your guys pot did with DICE, I'm assuming it was designed with mostly ln2 in mind? Still fighting Airgas on ln2 prices here so I'll be using dice for the next couple weeks probably. Same question for your gpu pot btw, I have a tek 9 fat from kingpin, I think I read somewhere you guys will have fat pots out soon?


----------



## wermad

How much does that funky looking block weigh vs the three separate blocks? And yes, I know it only needs two vs six fittings.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chimera1970*
> 
> Funny you guys mentioning advertising for EK.
> 
> People pay Harley-Davidson to advertise THEIR stuff LOL. $55 for a t-shirt that you could get at Walmart, for $10. The only difference is that H-D puts their name on it...and people gladly buy them!
> 
> I'd like to build an entire loop with nothing but EK products in the future, and one with nothing but XSPC and compare them to see which one would run cooler.


just make sure you don't use xspc water blocks for graphics cards because most of their full cover blocks are terrible







at the same token, EK's aren the #1 best for every card either

they have a really nice cpu block though, the raystorm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Most popular style demanded :/ we can't make our retailers carry 4+ SKUs every time we release a new product.
> 
> You guys are so entertaining. This is a sample simply to show a preview. The variations will be Nickel Plexi, Nickel Acetal, CSQ Nickel Plexi and CSQ Nickel Acetal. It'll be much cleaner.


yeah :S i figured with the nickel problems ek has had in the past that full copper plating would be the go to style. i know it's the past but still


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> just make sure you don't use xspc water blocks for graphics cards because most of their full cover blocks are terrible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they have a really nice cpu block though, the raystorm


The stigma comes from their old 7970 blocks which used passive vrm cooling. From what I hear from owners for newer gen cards, its active cooling and their temps are pretty inline with the rest of the pack.

Their cpu blocks are good but they're getting a bit long in the tooth tbh. Waiting on what new cpu block XSPC cooks up, especially when the Alphacool/Phobya blocks are a tad better and costs close to the Raystorm.


----------



## kpoeticg

Derick, just to be clear because everybody seems to be assuming that RIVE BE Mono Block is an AiO Block even though to me it looks like it's just placed over the other blocks which = less ports/fittings. Does that replace the CPU & Mobo Full Blocks like an ITX Block, or does it just sit on top of them connecting everything?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Derick, just to be clear because everybody seems to be assuming that RIVE BE Mono Block is an AiO Block even though to me it looks like it's just placed over the other blocks which = less ports/fittings. Does that replace the CPU & Mobo Full Blocks like an ITX Block, or does it just sit on top of them connecting everything?


I'm obviously not derick, but I own the M6I block, and it looks to be the same type of build. So yes it replaces them all, it doesn't just join to the existing VRM/pch block.


----------



## kpoeticg

Really?



I have the Copper/Plexi Clean Block and it looks exactly like what's underneath. Also you can kinda see the copper block where the VRM's are. That's what's confusing me.

Also the fact that he said it's only gonna come in Nickel, and that's definitely the Clean CSQ Copper in the prototype. But i know he said it's just a prototype, that's why i'm asking.


----------



## wermad

I'm sure derick mentioned using "two fittings rather then six" (paraphrasing). So that means its a single unit to cover the cpu, vrm, and pch.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Really?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Copper/Plexi Clean Block and it looks exactly like what's underneath. Also you can kinda see the copper block where the VRM's are. That's what's confusing me.
> 
> Also the fact that he said it's only gonna come in Nickel, and that's definitely the Clean CSQ Copper in the prototype. But i know he said it's just a prototype, that's why i'm asking.


He did mentioned its a prototype and not the final thing.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well yeah, but if it was just meant to go over the top of the blocks to link everything together then it would still be 2 fittings instead of 6









Taking away 4 fittings/ports would be the main reason to buy it.

I'm sure you guys are probly right, just the copper clean csq in the pic that's throwing me off.

I guess there would be no reason to even use metal and plating though if it was just essentially a fancy SLI Bridge. It would just be plexi probly

Edit: The pic kinda reminds me of this build


----------



## skupples

I'm just curious how they mount together. Fitting two tiny male/male fittings in there would be a major PITA. They must screw to each other.

I would NEVER put an alphacool or Phobya *waterblock* in my rig.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The stigma comes from their old 7970 blocks which used passive vrm cooling. From what I hear from owners for newer gen cards, its active cooling and their temps are pretty inline with the rest of the pack.
> 
> Their cpu blocks are good but they're getting a bit long in the tooth tbh. Waiting on what new cpu block XSPC cooks up, especially when the Alphacool/Phobya blocks are a tad better and costs close to the Raystorm.


all XSPC 7970 block (old or new razor block) use passive cooling on VRM
i still have five of these (new Razor), 3 in closet and 2 in my wife's build
and GPU is around 5 or 6C gigher than EK 7970 block
and with an ambient temp around 27-30c, VRM are around 70c on razor and 45 on EK

Razor have a really great looking and do the job ut EK are way better , sure for 7970

my 2 GTX 780 HOF use EK and never saw temp higher than 45c and they are OC at 1306Mhz at 1.2v, not able to see VRM temp


----------



## kpoeticg

If the block was just a bridge, i'd imagine the tops screw into each other. But the more i think about it, releasing a "Bridge" in 4 different Nickel-Plated flavors wouldn't make much sense. Werm & JimHans must be right about it being a full block


----------



## wermad

Hmmm, not sure if you mean its a special cpu block that *adapts* to the current BE mb blocks or if its a new entire assembly block to cover the three things.

From what I can tell, it does look like they are using the same bases but probably different tops to interconnect them. Or they are using a new cpu top to join the mb blocks. If its the later, all you would need to do is buy the new cpu block or just the top (if you already have the Supremacy).

I think its easier for them just to sell the whole thing as a new sku.


----------



## kpoeticg

I was suggesting that it was an assembly block to cover the 3 things.

But it makes more sense that it's a single sku that replaces the cpu, pch, & vrm blocks. It was just the pic throwing me off. But it's much more logical that it's like an ITX Mobo/Cpu Block


----------



## axiumone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> Time to join the club. I love the aesthetics of EK products.


Hey that card looks familiar! Looking forward to the finished project.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hmmm, not sure if you mean its a special cpu block that *adapts* to the current BE mb blocks or if its a new entire assembly block to cover the three things.
> 
> From what I can tell, it does *look like they are using the same bases but probably different tops to interconnect them*. Or they are using a new cpu top to join the mb blocks. If its the later, all you would need to do is buy the new cpu block or just the top (if you already have the Supremacy).
> 
> I think its easier for them just to sell the whole thing as a new sku.


It couldn't be the same base, part of the base would then be plain copper and part of it would be plated, I'm guessing it's two or three bases and tops that are all held together using screws and o-rings, which is very similar to the way the M6I block is built, just much bigger obviously.


----------



## King4x4

WTB RIVBE Full block!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> WTB RIVBE Full block!


I hope they make these for more boards!!! I would have loved to have this style instead of the ugly one they made for the M5Extreme.....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It couldn't be the same base, part of the base would then be plain copper and part of it would be plated, I'm guessing it's two or three bases and tops that are all held together using screws and o-rings, which is very similar to the way the M6I block is built, just much bigger obviously.


I'm referring to the existing BE mb block and Supremacy cpu bases. Not *new* and identical basis for all three areas







. Its easier to use existing working parts rather then crafting all new custom pieces imho


----------



## batmanwcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axiumone*
> 
> Hey that card looks familiar! Looking forward to the finished project.


Nice to see you on here. I still have to pick up the screws from you.


----------



## $ilent

Is it possible to use EK Link System on the following together?

gtx 670 with gtx 680 FC-680 GTX+ Plexi/Nickel GPU block

+

gtx 670 with EK FC Plexi CSQ block?


----------



## lowfat

Nope.


----------



## wermad

If its the same block, sure. If not, its hard to tell unless the ports line up properly.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm referring to the existing BE mb block and Supremacy cpu bases. Not *new* and identical basis for all three areas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Its easier to use existing working parts rather then crafting all new custom pieces imho


It looks like it may make use of the pch.


----------



## wermad

Seems like it. It wouldn't be different then connecting them like "Project N.V.".


----------



## derickwm

It's just magic.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Anyone know if the coolstream PE rads come apart easily/at all? (for painting)


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Anyone know if the coolstream PE rads come apart easily/at all? (for painting)


It looks like the end tank covers and side panels are removable, at least from the screws on the end tanks. Could be totally wrong about the side panels being removable, but it does appear that the torx screws are holding them on as well.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> It looks like the end tank covers and side panels are removable, at least from the screws on the end tanks. Could be totally wrong about the side panels being removable though, but it does appear that the torx screws are holding them on as well.


Yeah that's what it looks like, I just wanted some confirmation, important for my upcoming build


----------



## failwheeldrive

Yeah, better safe than sorry. If they aren't removable I'm sure you could still get a nice paint job by masking off the fin array, or you could go with AX series rads since they come apart easily and have similar specs to the PE series. Looking forward to seeing some progress on your new build


----------



## Jameswalt1

Thought about the AX rads but I love the look of the EK rads. I don't want to just mask off the fins because there are seams in the shroud pieces that the paint would fill over which wouldn't look very clean.

Perhaps @derickwm could weigh in here..


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Thought about the AX rads but I love the look of the EK rads. I don't want to just mask off the fins because there are seams in the shroud pieces that the paint would fill over which wouldn't look very clean.
> 
> Perhaps @derickwm could weigh in here..


Yeah I know what you mean, it wouldn't look right to just paint over all the seams. I was meaning to say that if the side panels aren't removable you could remove the end tank covers and paint those, then mask off the fin array and paint the side panels. Should have been clearer about that lol.


----------



## lowfat

Ordered the acrylic CSQ top and nickel back for a D5. Can't wait for them to arrive so I can polish the snot out of them.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Anyone know if the coolstream PE rads come apart easily/at all? (for painting)


Easy peasy


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Easy peasy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Thank you sir!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Ordered the acrylic CSQ top and nickel back for a D5. Can't wait for them to arrive so I can polish the snot out of them.


Can't wait to see it.


----------



## kcuestag

Derick, please tell me this is also coming for the normal Rampage IV Extreme.... I'd buy it as soon as it hit your store.


----------



## derickwm

Not likely. Lots of other projects to work on first









If this style of block sells really well we'll probably bring it to a few more boards but AFAIK right now it would only be for upcoming boards/chipsets.


----------



## jthm4goth

My new EK water blocks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Not likely. Lots of other projects to work on first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If this style of block sells really well we'll probably bring it to a few more boards but AFAIK right now it would only be for upcoming boards/chipsets.


Out of curiosity, have you guys gotten any X99 samples to start working on? RVE?


----------



## VSG

I am very curious to know that too!


----------



## kpoeticg

I actually live like 45 minutes from you Derick, so if you need any help with testing any x99 boards, i'm more than happy to assist


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I actually live like 45 minutes from you Derick, so if you need any help with testing any x99 boards, i'm more than happy to assist


More then likely, their R&D in Slovenia would get the sample.


----------



## VSG

They don't trust Derick with new tech, he is more of a trophy rep


----------



## derickwm

^

I'm barely even told about upcoming products that are in the works unless demanded 

And no, we don't have any X99 info or samples. I wish...


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jthm4goth*
> 
> My new EK water blocks


you should try to sand them down before painting, you wont get the bumps and with glossy paint they really show up, but looks good otherwise!


----------



## jthm4goth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> you should try to sand them down before painting, you wont get the bumps and with glossy paint they really show up, but looks good otherwise!


I'll keep that in mind for next time. Thank you. They look really good now that they are dried


----------



## kcuestag

Don't the RIVE and RIVE Black have the same PCB except the color? Wouldn't it work?


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, definitely not

The Black has upgraded components and the PCI slots are different

There's also caps near the PCH Block Ports that aren't on the RIVE, which is why the PCH Blocks are different


----------



## akira749

Did somebody ever heard if EK had plans to make a mobo block for the EVGA Z87 Classified?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Did somebody ever heard if EK had plans to make a mobo block for the EVGA Z87 Classified?


Probably not, since it's a very small quantity selling board to begin with.


----------



## $ilent

what about gigabyte z77x blocks? Do they exist?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> what about gigabyte z77x blocks? Do they exist?


I think they skipped the highend Z77 boards, not sure on the other models. I do know they did make Z87 high end board blocks (Sniper5, OC Force, etc.) this time.

edit: just checked coolingconfigurator.com and your mb does not have a block


----------



## stilllogicz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm using SLI links this time around so that i can run two cards in parallel & the third card in serial. I would use an EK link, if they made one that did this.


I'm guessing you do this because all 3 in serial is just too restrictive while having all 3 in parallel would cut the flow dramatically?

If this is the case, couldn't you just bypass it altogether by using 2 pumps in serial? I'm about to face the same situation and planning on using the triple parallel terminal with 2 D5 pumps chained together.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> I'm guessing you do this because all 3 in serial is just too restrictive while having all 3 in parallel would cut the flow dramatically?
> 
> If this is the case, couldn't you just bypass it altogether by using 2 pumps in serial? I'm about to face the same situation and planning on using the triple parallel terminal with 2 D5 pumps chained together.


That is the general idea. I'm using a triple parallel right now. I was planning to just power through it with 3x MCPs @ 3k RPM. Excuse my ignorance, how does running "2 pumps in serial" work?


----------



## stilllogicz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That is the general idea. I'm using a triple parallel right now. I was planning to just power through it with 3x MCPs @ 3k RPM. Excuse my ignorance, how does running "2 pumps in serial" work?


I might have worded that wrong, pretty much chaining them into each other, Pump > Pump > rest of the loop.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> I might have worded that wrong, pretty much chaining them into each other, Pump > Pump > rest of the loop.


I'll be using this for the triple pump...



I want to light it up, but i'm not a huge fan of being able to see the LED inside the block.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I think they skipped the highend Z77 boards, not sure on the other models. I do know they did make Z87 high end board blocks (Sniper5, OC Force, etc.) this time.
> 
> edit: just checked coolingconfigurator.com and your mb does not have a block


Ahh nvm, thanks for checking


----------



## stilllogicz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'll be using this for the triple pump...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to light it up, but i'm not a huge fan of being able to see the LED inside the block.


Looks good. White leds always work especially with colored coolant









Not sure how you would hide the led though.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> 
> 
> Derick, please tell me this is also coming for the normal Rampage IV Extreme.... I'd buy it as soon as it hit your store.


I keep looking at this new prototype block, and maybe with the memory and gpu slots populated, it wouldn't look so bad.

Would like to see a pic with components installed and smooth acetal tops.

Somehow the design is growing on me, not that would give up my current blocks for it.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I keep looking at this new prototype block, and maybe with the memory and gpu slots populated, it wouldn't look so bad.
> 
> Would like to see a pic with components installed and smooth acetal tops.
> 
> Somehow the design is growing on me, not that would give up my current blocks for it.


Its kinda like a small "Project N.V."-styled block imo. I personally think it looks quite good tbh.


----------



## Ragsters

Does anyone know what size extension I should use to match the height of an EK Supremacy block and an EK Monarch Ram block? I want to be able to use two 90s and a straight tube to plumb the two together.


----------



## VSG

I think Singularity Computers recently had to use 30mm extensions for the same thing, check out his 900D build on YouTube


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jthm4goth*
> 
> My new EK water blocks


you can head over to http://www.overclock.net/t/1382184/the-league-of-computer-hardware-painters/0_30 and join if you want








Any picture of the dryed blocks? Looks like u applied just one thick coat w/o proper surface preparation. Personally I don't like the paint job, judging from that picture.


----------



## jthm4goth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> you can head over to http://www.overclock.net/t/1382184/the-league-of-computer-hardware-painters/0_30 and join if you want
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any picture of the dryed blocks? Looks like u applied just one thick coat w/o proper surface preparation. Personally I don't like the paint job, judging from that picture.


You are exactly right the surface wasn't prepped like it should have been. This was my first crack at painting any computer components. I have pictures on my camera of them dry but can't upload till I finish my computer hopefully Saturday


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jthm4goth*
> 
> You are exactly right the surface wasn't prepped like it should have been. This was my first crack at painting any computer components. I have pictures on my camera of them dry but can't upload till I finish my computer hopefully Saturday


This kind of thing definitely takes time, patience, and attention to detail. You could still sand it down and redo it. I would suggest removing the screws and going with very light coats though.


----------



## jthm4goth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> This kind of thing definitely takes time, patience, and attention to detail. You could still sand it down and redo it. I would suggest removing the screws and going with very light coats though.


I was thinking of doing that and using a less of a matte finish paint


----------



## Hefner

What's the usual RMA time/procedure with EK? Just started an RMA on my faulty DDC pump.

What a bummer. I want to use my new system so bad


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> What's the usual RMA time/procedure with EK? Just started an RMA on my faulty DDC pump.
> 
> What a bummer. I want to use my new system so bad


3 weeks if you purchased from a reseller or 2 weeks if you bought it directly from EK.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> What's the usual RMA time/procedure with EK? Just started an RMA on my faulty DDC pump.
> 
> What a bummer. I want to use my new system so bad


If you bought from Highflow, also start RMA there, and forward/CC them into any emails you get from EK. I've had Freddy send replacement pump next day, just based on Swiftech seeing my noisy pump video. But maybe EK wants to see the bad pump before authorising replacement. Doesn't hurt to ask


----------



## lowfat

Spend all day long sanding and polishing a pair of Supreme HFs. Had a hard time polishing the inside of the block. Second block I got lazy and just gave it a brushed look instead.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-27-4.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-27-4.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-28-4.jpg.html


----------



## Jeffinslaw

First one looks good! Second one... not so good







not a fan of the frosted look.

But great pictures as always!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## lowfat

I actually prefer the frosted on. The Supreme HF is a busy block. The frosting makes it less in your face IMO. I'm looking forward to using it in the near future.


----------



## skupples

I like frosted over polished, IF you are going to be using LEDs. Being able to see the actual LED is an eye sore.


----------



## Ragsters

Can anyone help me with this?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Does anyone know what size extension I should use to match the height of an EK Supremacy block and an EK Monarch Ram block? I want to be able to use two 90s and a straight tube to plumb the two together.


----------



## szeged

Think it's 30mm


----------



## failwheeldrive

I like that brushed Supreme HF. Would like to see it filled with coolant.


----------



## derickwm

I was told to relay that we don't recommend having anymore than 2 DDCs in a low restriction loop otherwise you run the risk of frying the DDCs quicker.

*looking at you lot with the triple tops*


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> I like that brushed Supreme HF. Would like to see it filled with coolant.











http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-32-5.jpg.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I was told to relay that we don't recommend having anymore than 2 DDCs in a low restriction loop otherwise you run the risk of frying the DDCs quicker.
> 
> *looking at you lot with the triple tops*


I've been trying to tell people this for ages. Even two DDCs can be too much for many loops.

EDIT: Just saw that you guys are doing 180mm radiators. Noice! Any idea on dimensions?


----------



## failwheeldrive

lol just saw that in the water cooling club. Looks awesome man


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Think it's 30mm


Thanks! That is what I used to plumb the supremacy to the Mosfet Mobo block.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I was told to relay that we don't recommend having anymore than 2 DDCs in a low restriction loop otherwise you run the risk of frying the DDCs quicker.
> 
> *looking at you lot with the triple tops*


Single DDC 3.25 user here. No troubles at all, and I ain't using pwm too









RIVE blocks + ram blocks + cpu block = pita cpu swap







. Good thing I'm using 3/8x1/2.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I was told to relay that we don't recommend having anymore than 2 DDCs in a low restriction loop otherwise you run the risk of frying the DDCs quicker.
> 
> *looking at you lot with the triple tops*


Is this still true with PWM pumps run at 30% or so?


----------



## derickwm

Just don't do it.

Wermad has a gigantic loop and only one DDC and is fine. If you want to turn them down to 30%, run 2 and you'll be fine unless your loop is even bigger than wermad's somehow.


----------



## VSG

If that TX10 trade happens, it will be bigger all right!


----------



## szeged

i thought you already bought the tx10?







i hope you get it, i wanna see it in action lol.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If that TX10 trade happens, it will be bigger all right!


If you're getting a TX10 I expect no less than 4 individual loops. Individual loops with 1 pump > one giant loop with multiple pumps.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If that TX10 trade happens, it will be bigger all right!


What?!?!!?!?!? Still looking for transportation for that beast? Suggestion











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Is this still true with PWM pumps run at 30% or so?


from what I hear on the 35x (DDC pwm), it does best ~40-60%.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If you're getting a TX10 I expect no less than 4 _individual_ loops. Individual loops with 1 pump > one giant loop with multiple pumps.


one loop for the gpus, one loop for the cpu, one loop for the ram blocks, one loop for the mobo.

good god that would be awesome.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If you're getting a TX10 I expect no less than 4 individual loops. Individual loops with 1 pump > one giant loop with multiple pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> one loop for the gpus, one loop for the cpu, one loop for the ram blocks, one loop for the mobo.
> 
> good god that would be awesome.
Click to expand...











I had to talk Stren out of doing that. I meant one loop for the CPU/RAM/Chipset and one loop for the GPUs on both sides, for a total of 4.


----------



## VSG

ROFL ya his truck is getting fixed now and he also is going through family issues. Hopefully everything is worked out soon since I am going on a foreign trip all of April.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If you're getting a TX10 I expect no less than 4 _individual_ loops. Individual loops with 1 pump > one giant loop with multiple pumps.


Assuming that the trade goes through, there will be definitely 2 separate builds of which each will have their own individual loops. The more complex build will have 2 DDCs if I go with the Mo.Ra 3 140.9 and 1-2 560 rads. I am still unsure if I will split up the CPU loop and GPU loop or have one loop for everything on that side.


----------



## wermad

Rent a U-Haul truck and just work it out w/ the seller (ie discount on the price for self pickup).


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to talk Stren out of doing that. I meant one loop for the CPU/RAM/Chipset and one loop for the GPUs on both sides, for a total of 4.


i think what you really mean is 4 loops on each side.







now that would be impressive to see that shoved into a case.


----------



## wermad

Lord Palpatine sloth? Aka: The Emperor Sloth?


----------



## PCModderMike

Nom nom...I haven't used EK fittings in years, since my 600T days...loving the look of these though and I think they'll fit my new build perfectly.


----------



## derickwm




----------



## skupples

@DerickWM What qualifies as low restriction?

I got the triple top because it was like 30$, but i'm still debating breaking off the mobo section into its own loop powered by a single pump.

Iv'e heard two people mention triple DDC tops frying pumps, but iv'e yet to see anyone actually produce any evidence...


----------



## derickwm

Our blocks


----------



## skupples

so the real story is, EK is killing my pumps?!

jk jk.


----------



## King4x4

I concur with the pump overkill... my loop that pours 6 blocks and 7 rads is being powered by one D5.


----------



## skupples

Here is the thing... I have charted decent temp differences when running my MCP35x2 @ low speeds Vs. high speeds. 20%(lowest cycle) runs about 5c hotter across all blocks than @ 55%(almost full speed)


----------



## derickwm

Thanks king.

Wermad is also my favorite example right now. The guy has 4 GPU blocks, two RAM blocks, southbridge block, mosfet block, cpu block, a ton of radiators and only 1 DDC. And this is a guy known for overkill generally









Remember kiddies, more blocks = more e-peen not, more pumps = more e-peen


----------



## gdubc

I was planning a dual loop but would a single ddc be too much for dual gpu blocks and 2 360 xtx rads? Maybe a 280 also? The other loop would be rampage blocks, cpu, aquaero 6 and a single 360 xtx, or maybe the 280 in this loop instead?


----------



## derickwm

I guess I'm giving the wrong impression. I'm not trying to come off as a pump Nazi. Either setup would be fine gdubc. My point is triple DDC setups are silly (and hazardous to pump life) for most applications unless you have an extremely large loop with restrictive components, in which I'd just recommend splitting it into smaller loops anyway.


----------



## skupples

@DerickWM The pump Nazi is making me want to attempt returning the triple top & splitting my loop into a dual loop, single pump for mobo, dual pump for GPU... Or maybe dual pump for mobo & single pump for GPU.

Wonder how Performance-PCs is about returning products that are still in the box.

I would still like to talk to some one who has had triple DDC tops kill a pump. I'm a pictures or it didn't happen kinda guy.

Any chance you can get EK to come off their data where they had a triple top kill a pump?


----------



## gdubc

Just getting the noob jitters I guess. They will be pwm pumps with heatsink kits so I shouldn't be worrying. I honestly would rather go d5 pumps on this but the cost after dressing them up scares me away.

Edit: hmmm, maybe triple loop? Cpu to a 360, each gpu to their own 360 and the mobo and aquaero to the 280? Pastel in white, aqua and orange? Dang, I need to get this together and quit changing things!!!


----------



## szeged

single D5 pump is my fav still


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I was planning a dual loop but would a single ddc be too much for dual gpu blocks and 2 360 xtx rads? Maybe a 280 also? The other loop would be rampage blocks, cpu, aquaero 6 and a single 360 xtx, or maybe the 280 in this loop instead?


Get a PWM one and slow it down.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Just getting the noob jitters I guess. They will be pwm pumps with heatsink kits so I shouldn't be worrying. I honestly would rather go d5 pumps on this but the cost after dressing them up scares me away.
> 
> Edit: hmmm, maybe triple loop? Cpu to a 360, each gpu to their own 360 and the mobo and aquaero to the 280? Pastel in white, aqua and orange? Dang, I need to get this together and quit changing things!!!


That triple loop idea sounds a bit obscene... Are you planning to run like 50 fans from the Aquaero? If not you don't really need to deal with the waterblock. Iv'e seen allot of people individually cool their GPUs though.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> single D5 pump is my fav still


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That triple loop idea sounds a bit obscene... Are you planning to run like 50 fans from the Aquaero? If not you don't really need to deal with the waterblock. Iv'e seen allot of people individually cool their GPUs though.


Haha, it's meant to be obcene! Or obscenely overkill! The aquaero added is just for fun and cuz it's cheap to do. Although it will be maybe 20 fans...


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @DerickWM The pump Nazi is making me want to attempt returning the triple top & splitting my loop into a dual loop, single pump for mobo, dual pump for GPU... Or maybe dual pump for mobo & single pump for GPU.
> 
> Wonder how Performance-PCs is about returning products that are still in the box.
> 
> I would still like to talk to some one who has had triple DDC tops kill a pump. I'm a pictures or it didn't happen kinda guy.
> 
> Any chance you can get EK to come off their data where they had a triple top kill a pump?


I'll be running a loop with CPU/Mobo/RAM and then a separate loop for GPUs, this is my personal recommended option if you have the case space/$ for a dual loop.

It's not directly related to the triple tops, DDCs notoriously run hot (which reduces the life span) in low restriction loops. Three is just... so much power. Cavitation will eat those impellers like no tomorrow. Unless you have super grand plans and the triple tops fit into your loop perfectly, there's no benefit to it, only negatives.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Just getting the noob jitters I guess. They will be pwm pumps with heatsink kits so I shouldn't be worrying. I honestly would rather go d5 pumps on this but the cost after dressing them up scares me away.
> 
> Edit: hmmm, *maybe triple loop*? Cpu to a 360, each gpu to their own 360 and the mobo and aquaero to the 280? Pastel in white, aqua and orange? Dang, I need to get this together and quit changing things!!!


Dear lawd no. That's a nightmare and would not be worth it. You'd really be fine with one DDC, a second if you want two loops. Don't do three.


----------



## skupples

May end up "having" to get a second reservoir. There is no need to break my warranty seals if i'm not bridging all three pumps together. 1x 480 for mobo/cpu, 2x 480s for tri-sli titans... Sounds good.









I didn't even think about cavitation being an issue for pumps, but makes sense.


----------



## szeged

sounds like you need more 480s to fill that sth10 up


----------



## derickwm

At one point I think I had 4 480 rads in my STH10, down to 2 480s, 1 360 and 2 240s now. Cleaned it up a bit


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> sounds like you need more 480s to fill that sth10 up












Maybe... I'm done buying radiators until some one comes out with an epic level 140mm fan. I want to jump to 560s next. Until then 3x 480s & a 360 should suffice.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe... I'm done buying radiators until some one comes out with an epic level 140mm fan. I want to jump to 560s next. Until then 3x 480s & a 360 should suffice.


The Phantek PH-F140XPs are pretty awesome quiet 140mm fans.


----------



## wermad

Think Slinky takes the cake for pump overkill. Still extremely impressive imho


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Think Slinky takes the cake for pump overkill. Still extremely impressive imho


hehe... He uses Ram blocks to watercool the rear of his DDCs.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> hehe... He uses Ram blocks to watercool the rear of his DDCs.


----------



## wot

So they have time to make this ugly imo block for RIVE Black but no time for Mpower max water block?


----------



## szeged

seeing as how the rampage and maximus boards are the most popular mobos they designed blocks for those first.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Nom nom...I haven't used EK fittings in years, since my 600T days...loving the look of these though and I think they'll fit my new build perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are those a black nickel?

Going to whore out a few more pics of my Supremes.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-5-10.jpg.html

I think I'll be going w/ this combo for an In Win 901 build. Will frost the reservoir and acrylic tubing the same way.
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-2-13.jpg.html


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Are those a black nickel?
> 
> Going to whore out a few more pics of my Supremes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-5-10.jpg.html
> 
> I think I'll be going w/ this combo for an In Win 901 build. Will frost the reservoir and acrylic tubing the same way.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-2-13.jpg.html


Those look so good, especially digging the frosted one! Did you use wet 2000 grit to achieve the look?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Those look so good, especially digging the frosted one! Did you use wet 2000 grit to achieve the look?


For the brushed one I wet sanded w/ 400g in just a single direction. I spent maybe 5 minutes on the block.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Nom nom...I haven't used EK fittings in years, since my 600T days...loving the look of these though and I think they'll fit my new build perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are those a black nickel?
> 
> Going to whore out a few more pics of my Supremes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-5-10.jpg.html
> 
> I think I'll be going w/ this combo for an In Win 901 build. Will frost the reservoir and acrylic tubing the same way.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-2-13.jpg.html
Click to expand...

Yep, black nickel. Real nice finish imo.
Those blocks look real good.


----------



## cdnGhost

Question, was installing a naked ivy kit on a Maximus vi Impact
And one of the posts does not go through the mother board mounting hole....
What to do?? Contact the re seller, EK or can I enlarge the hole in the motherboard?
This sucks.... Not that I need it today still waiting on some items to repair my build...
But was disappointed that it does not fit...


----------



## derickwm

Weird.

Does the hole in the motherboard look abnormally small compared to the other 3? If it doesn't, please contact whoever you purchased it from. Either a reseller or us if it came directly from our webstore and we'll get you a new one.


----------



## cdnGhost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Weird.
> 
> Does the hole in the motherboard look abnormally small compared to the other 3? If it doesn't, please contact whoever you purchased it from. Either a reseller or us if it came directly from our webstore and we'll get you a new one.


No I tried it all 4 of the holes..... It did not fit in any of them
Hope to hear from the reseller tomorrow...

Thanks for the reply


----------



## darwing

So finally After all that wait on getting my coolabratories liquid, I am finally able to put the CPU block on!








Now I have to figure out what to do about the I/O silver, it needs to be black, does anyone know where or how to apply vinal? I cant find it anywhere and want to use it on that section.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have to figure out what to do about the I/O silver, it needs to be black, does anyone know where or how to apply vinal? I cant find it anywhere and want to use it on that section.


Use Plasti-Dip.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1287144/lowfats-big-lian-li-inverted-edition/320_20#post_20422549


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Use Plasti-Dip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1287144/lowfats-big-lian-li-inverted-edition/320_20#post_20422549


I have never heard of that before!! But that build is amazing... I need a new camera, my iphone isn't doing any of my work justice









But yes that looks good it just will be hard not to get any on the motherboard if painting the I/o

Edit: wow I just looked it up it really looks good with that texture I think I'll have to give that a try just have serious preparations for no dripping onto or in the motherboard components


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> So they have time to make this ugly imo block for RIVE Black but no time for Mpower max water block?


Probably because it's an MSI board. In retail, you make your products for the items that sell the best in your market, and MSI isn't that big a seller in the enthusiast board market.


----------



## derickwm

Not many blocks sell for any other manufacturer other than Asus. We try, and every time the same result. Just how things go I guess. We're a small company, we do what we can.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I can't decide whether to use the Nickel or Black version now. Knew I shoulda just got one.





Covering the pump body was the only thing bitspower did better IMHO and now EK have that too. So glad I stayed, Strens reviews of bitspower pump tops haven't been very good.


----------



## Jameswalt1

I'm a big fan of these new PE rads


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yeah me too. I just got a 360 and it will just fit in to the top of my case. Gonna order a 240 as well it is so nice. Makes the Alphacool rads I took out look so rough and ready.

The only fly in the ointment is the Imperial size screws but I might just re tap them to M4


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm a big fan of these new PE rads


So am I, but really these EK-extender fitting adapters really need to be available in black as well


----------



## derickwm

Contrast contrast!


----------



## szeged

Silver rad with black fittings


----------



## Ovrclck

So.. What's the best method in getting my en nickel supreme hf cleaned? I've tried distilled + brush.. Vinegar and bicarb scrub. Still pretty gunky. Can I dunk it into a vinegar bath?I'm guessing the black is silver oxidization from the silver coil.

















Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## szeged

I gave mine a 5 minute non diluted distilled vinegar bath the scrubbed with hot soap and water then finished with a bicarb mix, used a toothbrush to scrub through each phase. Worked pretty good. Can get a metal polished to remove oxidation from an auto parts store as well. Mine was pretty bad lol.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> So.. What's the best method in getting my en nickel supreme hf cleaned? I've tried distilled + brush.. Vinegar and bicarb scrub. Still pretty gunky. Can I dunk it into a vinegar bath?I'm guessing the black is silver oxidization from the silver coil.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


Use a metal polish


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I gave mine a 5 minute non diluted distilled vinegar bath the scrubbed with hot soap and water then finished with a bicarb mix, used a toothbrush to scrub through each phase. Worked pretty good. Can get a metal polished to remove oxidation from an auto parts store as well. Mine was pretty bad lol.


Thanks! I'll give that a try.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Use a metal polish


Thanks!


----------



## jthm4goth

The painted blocks installed and tubes running to it.


----------



## BradleyW

Hey everyone:
My EK D5 mights a grinding noise on the highest speed. Any idea why? It's done it since day one and people suggested air was trapped. I am now 4 months in!


----------



## snef

my last build, again with a lot of EK product and for sure in white, like GTX 780 HOF EK-Block


----------



## royce5950

just yesterday I ordered the EVGA GTX 750 ti, the AC X version, and I was curious when and if ek had any plans in the works to create a water block that was full cover for this card? I got it for an upcoming build so Id probably be waiting about a month to power it, but either way I was just curious. Its fun oveclocking new cards and id like to see what this budget badboy can do. 700 series for 170 usd I was like yes please lol.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> just yesterday I ordered the EVGA GTX 750 ti, the AC X version, and I was curious when and if ek had any plans in the works to create a water block that was full cover for this card? I got it for an upcoming build so Id probably be waiting about a month to power it, but either way I was just curious. Its fun oveclocking new cards and id like to see what this budget badboy can do. 700 series for 170 usd I was like yes please lol.


Take a look here Royce. http://www.ekwb.com/news/467/19/New-Full-Cover-water-blocks-in-the-works-March-2014/


----------



## derickwm

@snef which cards are you using? Those don't look like white PCB'd HOFs?

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> So.. What's the best method in getting my en nickel supreme hf cleaned? I've tried distilled + brush.. Vinegar and bicarb scrub. Still pretty gunky. Can I dunk it into a vinegar bath?I'm guessing the black is silver oxidization from the silver coil.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


http://www.ekwb.com/support/index.php?act=article&code=view&id=23


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/support/index.php?act=article&code=view&id=23


Thank you sir


----------



## PCModderMike

Small build log to go along with my small case. Figured I would share here since EK has sponsored some of the parts.








http://www.overclock.net/t/1476562/sponsored-project-idle-my-caselabs-mercury-s5-adventure#post_22000186


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> @snef which cards are you using? Those don't look like white PCB'd HOFs?


Yes , they are GTX 780 HOF with White PCB but the thicknessof pcb is black
on third pics you see the white PCB
lightning and quality of pics are not so good,


----------



## jhaze84

Has anyone had any issues with EK GPU backplates causing electrical shorts or other problems? I have a EVGA GTX 780 Ti with an EK-FC780 GTX Ti copper plexi waterblock and matching backplate. After I installed the block and backplate I noticed the card began to refuse to wake up after resume from sleep, hibernation, or even full shut down. When I could get it to start properly, it would mostly work fine, but occasionally the monitor would lose input signal or the NVIDIA driver would crash.

After a frustrating month of trying to diagnose a possibly bad video card, motherboard, power supply, monitor, or monitor cable, I finally narrowed it down to the EK backplate. Without the backplate, the everything runs flawlessly. I read the instruction sheet about 10 times to see if I had it installed improperly, but I cannot see what I did wrong, if anything.

Has anyone heard of backplates causing problems like this?


----------



## derickwm

Hmm. Strange. maybe put up some pics? Along with the exact model of the 780 Ti.


----------



## jthm4goth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> my last build, again with a lot of EK product and for sure in white, like GTX 780 HOF EK-Block


Thats so clean


----------



## wermad

Check the vrm area on the back. Make sure nothing protrudes enough to short with the backplate.


----------



## BradleyW

I think this was missed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey everyone:
> My EK D5 mights a grinding noise on the highest speed. Any idea why? It's done it since day one and people suggested air was trapped. I am now 4 months in!


Cheers.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I think this was missed.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey everyone:
> My EK D5 mights a grinding noise on the highest speed. Any idea why? It's done it since day one and people suggested air was trapped. I am now 4 months in!
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers.
Click to expand...

It's made the noise from day 1?
How is your pump oriented? Horizontally? Vertically?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> It's made the noise from day 1?
> How is your pump oriented? Horizontally? Vertically?


Day 1 = From the first day I installed it.
Image here: (Ignore the bubbles)

The pump is sat on the bottom of the chassis.
Thank you.


----------



## 7ha7a5ian

Moulds are machined and may not be exactly uniform as the rest?


----------



## Ovrclck

@derickwm

Quick question, is there a method for storing blocks long term out of the loop? My two 780 classy blocks have been sitting for a few months. I filled them up with distilled and capped them off. Just wondering if that is going to have any adverse effects?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> It's made the noise from day 1?
> How is your pump oriented? Horizontally? Vertically?
> 
> 
> 
> Day 1 = From the first day I installed it.
> Image here: (Ignore the bubbles)
> 
> The pump is sat on the bottom of the chassis.
> Thank you.
Click to expand...

Sorry wish I could address your question better, but if it's not air...then I'm kind of stumped and can only think it's been defective. I personally wouldn't have kept it for 4 months if it had been making a grinding noise. I probably would have waited around a week, to dismiss the idea of it being air trapped somewhere, then contacted the retailer where I purchased it from to raise my concerns with them and pursue a possible RMA.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> @derickwm
> 
> Quick question, is there a method for storing blocks long term out of the loop? My two 780 classy blocks have been sitting for a few months. I filled them up with distilled and capped them off. Just wondering if that is going to have any adverse effects?


I'm sure derick will be able to address your question better. But I wouldn't have even done that, why did you? Think about how long some blocks sit around in various retailers warehouses, or even at EK's facilities, and they don't use that sort of practice.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> It's made the noise from day 1?
> How is your pump oriented? Horizontally? Vertically?
> 
> 
> 
> Day 1 = From the first day I installed it.
> Image here: (Ignore the bubbles)
> 
> The pump is sat on the bottom of the chassis.
> Thank you.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sorry wish I could address your question better, but if it's not air...then I'm kind of stumped and can only think it's been defective. I personally wouldn't have kept it for 4 months if it had been making a grinding noise. I probably would have waited around a week, to dismiss the idea of it being air trapped somewhere, then contacted the retailer where I purchased it from to raise my concerns with them and pursue a possible RMA.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> @derickwm
> 
> Quick question, is there a method for storing blocks long term out of the loop? My two 780 classy blocks have been sitting for a few months. I filled them up with distilled and capped them off. Just wondering if that is going to have any adverse effects?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm sure derick will be able to address your question better. But I wouldn't have even done that, why did you? Think about how long some blocks sit around in various retailers warehouses, or even at EK's facilities, and they don't use that sort of practice.
Click to expand...

makes sense, I thought maybe it would prevent corrosion?

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## snef

I like clean block a lot,
Specially the monarch ram block
Again, sorry for pics, only my phone was available at this time

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Bloody Angel/image_zpsc3d5cb56.jpg.html


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I like clean block a lot,
> Specially the monarch ram block
> Again, sorry for pics, only my phone was available at this time
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Bloody Angel/image_zpsc3d5cb56.jpg.html


I'd say it looks much better without the stock intel HS on it with a nice looking WC build, lol.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Sorry wish I could address your question better, but if it's not air...then I'm kind of stumped and can only think it's been defective. I personally wouldn't have kept it for 4 months if it had been making a grinding noise. I probably would have waited around a week, to dismiss the idea of it being air trapped somewhere, then contacted the retailer where I purchased it from to raise my concerns with them and pursue a possible RMA.
> I'm sure derick will be able to address your question better. But I wouldn't have even done that, why did you? Think about how long some blocks sit around in various retailers warehouses, or even at EK's facilities, and they don't use that sort of practice.


I kept it because people on OCN said it was normal for that noise on speed setting 5.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> @DerickWM
> 
> Quick question, is there a method for storing blocks long term out of the loop? My two 780 classy blocks have been sitting for a few months. I filled them up with distilled and capped them off. Just wondering if that is going to have any adverse effects?


Def don't do that. A lot of corrosion that is seen is in places where water stagnates or is trapped, like around the edges of O-rings.
Just dry them out and they will be fine to store.


----------



## jhaze84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hmm. Strange. maybe put up some pics? Along with the exact model of the 780 Ti.


Its an EVGA GTX 780 Ti Superclocked, P/N 03G-P4-2883-KR. These are pics I took from my first installation. Everything seem to fit just fine.




Also, I've noticed that I cannot seem to get rid of this air pocket. The card sits vertically like in the picture, and that side is in the inlet.. Anyone have any ideas? Aside from turning the case completely upside down which would be difficult.


----------



## VSG

Try turning it on its side as much as possible?


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> my last build, again with a lot of EK product and for sure in white, like GTX 780 HOF EK-Block
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That has to be this biggest case I have ever seen in my entire life!! What is it or is it all custom? Looks nice, a bit spacious, you could fit another motherboard in there!


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Def don't do that. A lot of corrosion that is seen is in places where water stagnates or is trapped, like around the edges of O-rings.
> Just dry them out and they will be fine to store.


Will do. Thank you.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> That has to be this biggest case I have ever seen in my entire life!! What is it or is it all custom? Looks nice, a bit spacious, you could fit another motherboard in there!


not sure if he posted, but it looks like a caselabs.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> That has to be this biggest case I have ever seen in my entire life!! What is it or is it all custom? Looks nice, a bit spacious, you could fit another motherboard in there!


Its a CaseLabs Magnum SMA8.


----------



## King4x4

Just finished installing a flow meter and found that the pump is giving out 2.5LPM which translates to 0.6GPM which is pretty good for a complicated loop and one EK-D5 on 4th setting (maximum is 5).

This is powering an EK-Supramacy Block, EK RIVBE Blocks, 4 EK-290 Blocks in Semi-Parallel Flow, 6 EK XTX-480s and 1 EK XT-360.

As for general information....The D5 is designed mainly for a high flow, low restrication loops.... DDCs are mainly low flow high restrication loops.

So for a complicated loop as mine and with an EK-D5 (The plexi head one) giving out nearly 0.6GPM at this restrication speaks highly of EK blocks and rads. It also raises a real concern for those running 3 DDC pumps with EK blocks... burnout maybe?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Just finished installing a flow meter and found that the pump is giving out 2.5LPM which translates to 0.6GPM which is pretty good for a complicated loop and one EK-D5 on 4th setting (maximum is 5).
> 
> This is powering an EK-Supramacy Block, EK RIVBE Blocks, 4 EK-290 Blocks in Semi-Parallel Flow, 6 EK XTX-480s and 1 EK XT-360.
> 
> *As for general information....The D5 is designed mainly for a high flow, low restrication loops.... DDCs are mainly low flow high restrication loops.
> 
> So for a complicated loop as mine and with an EK-D5 (The plexi head one) giving out nearly 0.6GPM at this restrication speaks highly of EK blocks and rads. It also raises a real concern for those running 3 DDC pumps with EK blocks... burnout maybe?*


^this


----------



## Egami

mATX sli in making. Those blocks!


----------



## TTheuns

Question:
Will the EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Serial work on a Z87 motherboard in terms of spacing between PCi-e slots
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-bridge-triple-serial.html


----------



## King4x4

Cute! but first thing that popped in my head:


----------



## Egami

Haha! It wouldn't be the first time they got called an inch too short gpu sandwich


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> ^this


Add to the fact that the loop is complex with nearly complete serial connections (Except for the semi-parallel with the blocks) with a high pressure drop and being driven by a single D5 (Not a DDC) and those people running a 2-3 full speed DDCs are gonna ruin them in a single cpu/gpu loop









Now when you talk 3 DDCs... They better be PWM ones running at 30% or you gonna smell one of them burn out so the other two won't over spool


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Question:
> Will the EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Serial work on a Z87 motherboard in terms of spacing between PCi-e slots
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-bridge-triple-serial.html


Which motherboard exactly?

To give you an example. It would fit on a Maximus Extreme VI but not on a Maximus Formula VI.


----------



## TTheuns

****, the M6F was exactly what I was looking at.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> mATX sli in making. Those blocks!


Sexy lil things.


----------



## TTheuns

Guess the bridge will fit the EVGA Z87 FTW and the Gigabyte GA-Z87X -OC, right?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Hey, what ever happened to the mount adaptor plate that make it easy to fit the D5 X-res to 120mm fans or rads? I was planning on using one but they have disappeared.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> ****, the M6F was exactly what I was looking at.


Ok so you want a bridge for 2 or 3 GPU's?

If you want a block to connect 2 GPU's then this block will work : EK-FC Bridge DUAL Serial 3-Slot

I also don't know what GPU's you want to put there but the bridge you mentioned and the one I linked above are for older EK style waterblock...like GTX 500 series or early GTX 600 series for example.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Guess the bridge will fit the EVGA Z87 FTW and the Gigabyte GA-Z87X -OC, right?


Yes


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes


Okay, thank you very much.


----------



## snef

some pics of the GPU loop
and please EK, do White fittings

you do a lot of hardware in white and i really like it


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> J
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ust finished installing a flow meter and found that the pump is giving out 2.5LPM which translates to 0.6GPM which is pretty good for a complicated loop and one EK-D5 on 4th setting (maximum is 5).
> 
> This is powering an EK-Supramacy Block, EK RIVBE Blocks, 4 EK-290 Blocks in Semi-Parallel Flow, 6 EK XTX-480s and 1 EK XT-360.
> 
> As for general information....The D5 is designed mainly for a high flow, low restrication loops.... DDCs are mainly low flow high restrication loops.
> 
> So for a complicated loop as mine and with an EK-D5 (The plexi head one) giving out nearly 0.6GPM at this restrication speaks highly of EK blocks and rads. It also raises a real concern for those running 3 DDC pumps with EK blocks... burnout maybe?












all this talk of burning pumps, cavitation, & warnings from EK, yet no proof. Seems like EK could @least publish proof if that have experienced this in their lab.

Just saying...

All information given up to this point has been anecdotal, no proof of Cavitation in triple DDC, & no proof of a single pump burning when running triple DDC.

the point of running 3 PWM DDC would be two fold. High flow, low noise, low duty cycle, low temp out put. May be a different story when running 3x @ 100%, but until some one can actually provide evidence of pumps dying/impellers eroding when using triple tops, it is purely speculative & anecdotal.

Darlene has been running the triple top for almost 2 months now, pumps running @ 3,000RPM, if the cavitation is as bad as we have been lead to believe, I think she would have seen it by now.

Cavitation is something that is easily audible. It sounds like rocks inside your pump, it should also be easily visible.


----------



## derickwm

We're just providing our recommendations, feel free to do as you please Sir Skupples


----------



## skupples

I'll guinea pig & report back. Now know of 4 people running triple DDC. If it is so deadly, we should know soon.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We're just providing our recommendations, feel free to do as you please Sir Skupples


I understand Derick, I just have an issue with being told something with zero evidence, then seeing other people running around regurgitating it as gospel w/o any proof as well.

We should have empirical evidence of our own on the topic in the next 6 months if no one else is able to bring some forward. My prediction will be that triple pumps @ 100% duty cycle would quickly kill each other. 3 pumps @ 50% duty cycle should be just fine.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We're just providing our recommendations, feel free to do as you please Sir Skupples


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'll guinea pig & report back. Now know of 4 people running triple DDC. If it is so deadly, we should know soon.


Dooo it skuppy


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We're just providing our recommendations, feel free to do as you please Sir Skupples
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I understand Derick, *I just have an issue with being told something with zero evidence*, then seeing other people running around regurgitating it as gospel w/o any proof as well.
> 
> We should have empirical evidence of our own on the topic in the next 6 months if no one else is able to bring some forward. My prediction will be that triple pumps @ 100% duty cycle would quickly kill each other. 3 pumps @ 50% duty cycle should be just fine.
Click to expand...

Hey man the badge under my name says I'm allowed to say whatever I want without evidence to back it up









Kidding


----------



## skupples




----------



## lowfat

High flow rate = high PCB temps on a DDC. Running 2.5 GPM+ is where you would risk damaging the pumps.


----------



## kpoeticg

I only plan on running mine at 100% when testing for leaks. Once i have everything setup with my Aquaero & flowmeter(s), i doubt my pumps will ever be at 100%.


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I only plan on running mine at 100% when testing for leaks. Once i have everything setup with my Aquaero & flowmeter(s), i doubt my pumps will ever be at 100%.


What percent would you run your pump at when dialing in an overclock?


----------



## kpoeticg

I use my Aquaero 6, Flowmeter, & Water Temp Sensors to control my pumps based on flowrate and temp. Overclocking wouldn't make me change my pump settings

My 35x3 found a few leaks a cpl weeks ago during leaktesting and i haven't had a chance to get up and running with the 3 pumps, so i don't have specific examples to give. I let Aquasuite control that stuff though. I don't set the PWM manually (except when leaktesting)

I plan on getting a 2nd Flowmeter too now that i have the 35x3, and maybe a MPS Pressure Sensor


----------



## walsingham100

Are there any plans of releasing the lovely new nickel d5 cover tops for the dual top kits?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hey man the badge under my name says I'm allowed to say whatever I want without evidence to back it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kidding


Lmao, you're the man Derick!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> What percent would you run your pump at when dialing in an overclock?


I run mine at 100% load. Although, I only has one


----------



## kpoeticg

PUNY HUMAN!!!!


----------



## skupples

eh, these tops are rather inexpensive, at some point i'll split off into dual loop w/ dual pumps on each one.


----------



## kpoeticg

Agreed. XSPC Tops are very cheap. I bought the XSPC 35x2 top a while back. I thought it was gonna look like the x3 though. That steel plate made me not really want it anymore.

You can definitely tell they won't have as good flowrate as the Swiftech or EK versions just from looking at the inside. Kind of all flat shapes with sharp edges


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Agreed. XSPC Tops are very cheap. I bought the XSPC 35x2 top a while back. I thought it was gonna look like the x3 though. That steel plate made me not really want it anymore.
> 
> You can definitely tell they won't have as good flowrate as the Swiftech or EK versions just from looking at the inside. Kind of all flat shapes with sharp edges


Talking about all of their tops? If I split off into dual loops w/ dual pumps I would just go back to the stock top, which seems to have the best performance.


----------



## kpoeticg

I was talking about the XSPC DDC Tops. They're cheap (meaning don't cost alot), but also the internal shape of em isn't real efficient for moving water.

EK & Swiftech definitely make better DDC tops. Nobody else makes an x3 top though


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I was talking about the XSPC DDC Tops. They're cheap (meaning don't cost alot), but also the internal shape of em isn't real efficient for moving water.
> 
> EK & Swiftech definitely make better DDC tops. Nobody else makes an x3 top though












and someone (not derick) will tell us there is a reason for that.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and someone (not derick) will tell us there is a reason for that.


I believe, but not 100% sure and I know ppl will jump in, but its probably that its made from plexi. And EK has said, its harder to work with plexi vs acetal.

Anyone jump in and disprove/add if you'd like


----------



## King4x4

I will do that!

I am trying to major in pump design as a profession and I will be happy to add some info...

Here is a basic pump design (Holds true for both DDC and D5 pumps which are both Centrifugal pumps but they differ slightly in the vane design which you will see in the following picture):



Only look at the eye of the impeller, the impeller itself, the casing and the vanes (which are inside of the impeller).

Usual design of any OEM D5/DDC means that the impeller and the driver are the same in each pump (Except in vendor specific pumps where they can change the impeller itself) but most of the pumps are OEM.

So the pump tops can play in the design of the eye of the impeller, the casing itself and the vanes... These three parameters with respect to the flow/head of the pump requirements can be changed in each design.

The design changes can be material selection (How good is the friction between the water and the casing... the smaller the fricition the less losses in pressure), Design (This is a can of worms I don't want to open unless you want to delve into third level integration math) and finally how much BLING they want into the pump. Yes more bling means design compermises. For example, Having a bay reserviour/pump combo might mean that you will have some loss in the pressure due to air mixing easily with the water causing caviation with the pump.

All of this goes in and the final answer can be only confirmed through real world testing.

TLR Pump top design can mean losses in the pump pressure (head).


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> I will do that!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I am trying to major in pump design as a profession and I will be happy to add some info...
> 
> Here is a basic pump design (Holds true for both DDC and D5 pumps which are both Centrifugal pumps but they differ slightly in the vane design which you will see in the following picture):
> 
> 
> 
> Only look at the eye of the impeller, the impeller itself, the casing and the vanes (which are inside of the impeller).
> 
> Usual design of any OEM D5/DDC means that the impeller and the driver are the same in each pump (Except in vendor specific pumps where they can change the impeller itself) but most of the pumps are OEM.
> 
> So the pump tops can play in the design of the eye of the impeller, the casing itself and the vanes... These three parameters with respect to the flow/head of the pump requirements can be changed in each design.
> 
> The design changes can be material selection (How good is the friction between the water and the casing... the smaller the fricition the less losses in pressure), Design (This is a can of worms I don't want to open unless you want to delve into third level integration math) and finally how much BLING they want into the pump. Yes more bling means design compermises. For example, Having a bay reserviour/pump combo might mean that you will have some loss in the pressure due to air mixing easily with the water causing caviation with the pump.
> 
> All of this goes in and the final answer can be only confirmed through real world testing.
> 
> TLR Pump top design can mean losses in the pump pressure (head).


I'm actually worried about the state of my mcp35x2 impellers as they were hooked to a bay res for 6 months which LOVED to suck air. I swear it has lost some oomph from when I first got it, but I also have it on a 200mm res now, so it's hard to tell w/o before/after flow measurements.

I have never seen anyone link pictures of damaged impellers, but i'm sure it exists.


----------



## kpoeticg

I just broke my x3 back down. One of the screws that came with my EK Heatsinks was stripped on the inside of the cap. I had to use pliers to unscrew it from the heatsink, which DESTROYED my pretty paintjob







. Definitely gonna have to sand and repaint.

My 2nd pump had a wire corroded, which i suspected because it was acting funny, and was the main reason i broke it down. The first leak i had was out of the 2nd pump in the setup, coming out of the wire hole and vents. I think i'm gonna resolder all 3 of the pumps, i don't like how much bare wire is left after the solder joints.

I'd like to break down the impeller from the pcb to inspect for damage from any of the pumps running dry, but i don't know how to safely remove the impeller/rotor

Also, i always figured the 35x was the same as the DDC 3.2 PWM. But the PCB's say 3.1 PWM. Weird....


----------



## Hefner

So my EK DDC 3.2 PWM Xres 100 pump/res combo was being very noisy. Whilst trying to RMA EK told me that it is normal for DDC pump to be noisy and that air is probably causing the noise. So with EK basically telling me everything is normal I decided to do the troubleshooting myself. I found out that the clearance between the pump and the pump is 1mm too shallow so the propeller grinds against the pump top which is what is causing it to be noisy.

Instead of waiting another 2-3 weeks for RMA I just put a layer of 1mm thick flat rubber between the O-ring and the pump which fixed the issue. Been leak testing my solution all night now and it seems fine so I will install it into my case soon.

I think the pump top has been overtightened at the EK factory causing the acetal of the pump top to slightly dent inside giving the pump that itty bit of extra clearance causing it to grind against the top. That, or they used an O-ring which is too thin.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> So my EK DDC 3.2 PWM Xres 100 pump/res combo was being very noisy. Whilst trying to RMA EK told me that it is normal for DDC pump to be noisy and that air is probably causing the noise. So with EK basically telling me everything is normal I decided to do the troubleshooting myself. I found out that the clearance between the pump and the pump is 1mm too shallow so the propeller grinds against the pump top which is what is causing it to be noisy.
> 
> Instead of waiting another 2-3 weeks for RMA I just put a layer of 1mm thick flat rubber between the O-ring and the pump which fixed the issue. Been leak testing my solution all night now and it seems fine so I will install it into my case soon.
> 
> I think the pump top has been overtightened at the EK factory causing the acetal of the pump top to slightly dent inside giving the pump that itty bit of extra clearance causing it to grind against the top. That, or they used an O-ring which is too thin.


Glad you got it sorted, but having seen your video of the pump, it seemed obvious that it wasn't air causing the ticking sound.


----------



## USFORCES

All EK and no circles







Just need to get rid of the green hoses now


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> All EK and no circles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need to get rid of the green hoses now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


And the antikink coils too imo :X. Would looks so much better without them!


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> And the antikink coils too imo :X. Would looks so much better without them!


Yep, those are being replaced by black ridged tubing soon as I get time


----------



## derickwm

Lookin good


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Two copper titan se blocks and a copper supremacy showed up today!


----------



## BradleyW

My EK Blocks! Great Stuff!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> My EK Blocks! Great Stuff!


Nice!

I can't wait to have my EK-FC780 GTX WF3...

EK has delayed them quite a bit! I just hope they will release it or I will have 3 GTX 780 WF3 Rev2 for sale...


----------



## BradleyW

Hopefully they come out soon!
Also, thank you for the compliment!


----------



## lowfat

Got the pump top and casing today. Already did a 5 minute polish job on the pump casing w/ some Autosol.

Tomorrow I'll be polishing the top.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-101.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-2-14.jpg.html


----------



## Striker36

hey all.

I'm sorry if this is a silly question or has been answered before but I couldn't find anything in searching the thread. I was wondering if any one knew of some place I could get JUST the EK reservoir brackets like these with out buying a whole reservoir.


__
https://flic.kr/p/11743599504

I already have a set from another build that I'm reusing with a different reservoir [Alphacool] in my current build but I'm going to be adding a second reservoir to the rig and want to keep everything standard. I love how minimal they are compared to many of the other brackets or mounting solutions.

-thanks
Striker


----------



## stren




----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> hey all.
> 
> I'm sorry if this is a silly question or has been answered before but I couldn't find anything in searching the thread. I was wondering if any one knew of some place I could get JUST the EK reservoir brackets like these with out buying a whole reservoir.
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/11743599504
> 
> I already have a set from another build that I'm reusing with a different reservoir [Alphacool] in my current build but I'm going to be adding a second reservoir to the rig and want to keep everything standard. I love how minimal they are compared to many of the other brackets or mounting solutions.
> 
> -thanks
> Striker


You mean this???
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20941/ex-res-638/EK_X3_Reservoir_60mm_Replacement_Holder_-_Pair_EK-RES_X3_Holder_60mm_2pcs.html


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> You mean this???
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20941/ex-res-638/EK_X3_Reservoir_60mm_Replacement_Holder_-_Pair_EK-RES_X3_Holder_60mm_2pcs.html


yes.... now I feel dumb... haha. I was looking all over that sight this morning and couldnt find them for the life of me.









thank you.


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*


The Water will flow magically between the blocks with no tubing!

IT'S THE POWER OF STREN!

STTTRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEEEN! HUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUM!


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> The Water will flow magically between the blocks with no tubing!
> 
> IT'S THE POWER OF STREN!
> 
> STTTRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEEEN! HUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUM!


magic is available for only a nominal price:










Still need more magic to get from that magic to the rest of the magic tho


----------



## kpoeticg

I like my magic in the clear variety


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> yes.... now I feel dumb... haha. I was looking all over that sight this morning and couldnt find them for the life of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thank you.










glad to help. Sometimes, things are easy to miss, extra eyes never hurts.


----------



## Kranik

Hello EK Club, question for you all! I'm having an issue with my new GTX 780 Classy block and REV2.0 back plate. I've narrowed it down to one of two things: the screw heads for the screws of the block are either too tall or the recesses for said screws on the back plate are too shallow. My card was showing pretty significant signs of warping to the point that the back plate was rubbing on the second set of RAM clips on my RIVE BE. When I went ahead and took all the screws off the water block and just used the ones for the back plate the card was completely straight and level.

I'm not exactly sure what to do about this. I've found wafer head M3x4MM screws online that have <1mm heads but I'm hoping that I don't need to buy new screws to make the block and back plate work together. Any ideas on this?


----------



## kpoeticg

Hey guys, quick question. I was breaking my 35x3 back down, and one of the pumps was really stuck in the EK Heatsink Housing (Probly because of my painting it). Anyway, a small piece of the pump housing cracked when i was "wedging" it out. It's outside of the O-Ring and seems like the Heatsink Housing might replace the little wall that cracked, I'd like some feedback from some of you guys that are far smarter than me though.

I know it's a borderline OCN WC Club Post/PM Bram issue. But the EK Heatsink is making me hope that all is well







As you can see, it doesn't affect the O-Ring. Which means it "Shouldn't" cause leaks. Or at least that's what i'm hoping. Thanx in advance for any feedback


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question. I was breaking my 35x3 back down, and one of the pumps was really stuck in the EK Heatsink Housing (Probly because of my painting it). Anyway, a small piece of the pump housing cracked when i was "wedging" it out. It's outside of the O-Ring and seems like the Heatsink Housing might replace the little wall that cracked, I'd like some feedback from some of you guys that are far smarter than me though.
> 
> I know it's a borderline OCN WC Club Post/PM Bram issue. But the EK Heatsink is making me hope that all is well
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it doesn't affect the O-Ring. Which means it "Shouldn't" cause leaks. Or at least that's what i'm hoping. Thanx in advance for any feedback


That is only a cosmetic issue, if the heatsink covers it, your gold. Obviously, it's outside the o-ring so it shouldn't leak due to that.


----------



## VSG

You should be good, but look at it this way- worst case is that you need replacement parts. This is the same thing if you test it out and find out if it is running or not, so why not test it out?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That is only a cosmetic issue, if the heatsink covers it, your gold. Obviously, it's outside the o-ring so it shouldn't leak due to that.


Thanx for the quick response brotha. Much appreciated. Feel a whole lot better now









I don't always type "+rep" when i rep some1. But this situation calls for a +REP









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You should be good, but look at it this way- worst case is that you need replacement parts. This is the same thing if you test it out and find out if it is running or not, so why not test it out?


Lol, yeah i know. I will. It took me a few days to get around to breaking my 35x3 back down that far. I also need to touchup the paint on the heatsinks.

I have a short in one of the pumps also





Im hoping it's just the green wire corroding from the leak, cuz resoldering wires is an easy fix. Or even if the wires were touching somehow. I feel the need to resolder the wires on all the of the pumps now =\

Unfortunately i'm sleeving my whole build, so makes no sense to resolder and test, then break back down and sleeve. So testing my pump(s) definitely won't be happening til at lest tomorrow


----------



## VSG

I did it for Kate


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, yeah she's definitely a godess. Watching the new Hobbit put me back on a "Freckles" kick. Now i'm watching through Lost again on Netflix LOLLL. Pathetic maybe. But it's a good show, and she's just so damn beautiful!!!!


----------



## Kimir

soon™


----------



## VSG

I won't be arguing against you there!

@kimir: Speaking of avatar, I miss your older one


----------



## skupples

Oh nice! White case with black innards!


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I won't be arguing against you there!
> 
> @kimir: Speaking of avatar, I miss your older one


Better now?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Oh nice! White case with black innards!


Yup, everything black inside (chassis), black flexbay and window and every external part in white, should be good with them e-loops.


----------



## VSG

YES!


----------



## lowfat

2 hours later.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-11-9.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-10-9.jpg.html

Link to polishing guide.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1287144/lowfats-big-lian-li-inverted-edition/700_20#post_22023995


----------



## derickwm

Mmmm nice one lowfat.

In other news:










+










=










Got some high quality images there... Living room is terribly setup. Need to setup a studio...somewhere.


----------



## kpoeticg

Too much pr0n on one page!!! MUST.......RESIST........


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Better now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, everything black inside (chassis), black flexbay and window and every external part in white, should be good with them e-loops.


Was that an option when ordering? I'm jelly, would cost allot to retrofit.


----------



## VSG

Derick, are those the new Sammy ram?


----------



## kpoeticg

Those look like the old "Legendary" Sammy Ram


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Derick, are those the new Sammy ram?


Just old stuff AFAIK?


----------



## VSG

Ya those look like the wonder ram.

Edit: Derick's ninja post confirms it. I thought maybe the new 20nm ram had come out: http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/minisite/Greenmemory/news-event/in-the-news/detail?contentsSeq=12266&contsClassCd=G

http://www.slashgear.com/samsung-20nm-4gb-ddr3-ram-enters-mass-production-11320225/


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Was that an option when ordering? I'm jelly, would cost alot to retrofit.


Yeah, black and white two tone option (It's a Caselabs Magnum SMA8).
I just had to tell what pieces I wanted black and the other white.


----------



## skupples

Very nice!

Sammy wonder ram... Does it do 2400mhz @ 1.5V?


----------



## derickwm

Haven't tried them yet. I'm mostly addicted to them because of the extra oc I was able to get previously with my X5679s. Before I could get 4750mhz (across all 12c24t) stable while folding, as soon as I switched them out to the Dominator GTs I couldn't get anything stable about 4500mhz. So yeah. Here I am.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya those look like the wonder ram.
> 
> Edit: Derick's ninja post confirms it. I thought maybe the new 20nm ram had come out: http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/minisite/Greenmemory/news-event/in-the-news/detail?contentsSeq=12266&contsClassCd=G
> 
> http://www.slashgear.com/samsung-20nm-4gb-ddr3-ram-enters-mass-production-11320225/


Awesome news!!! I didn't know Samsung was still working on improving DDR3. Thanx for the link

The Samsung.com Link looks like the ECC Server Memory though. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147307


----------



## VSG

Ya that was the predecessor to the consumer grade ram mentioned in the second link.


----------



## kpoeticg

Gotcha


----------



## lowfat

@EK Why did you guys change the D5 uni mount style? The pictures on FCPU showed something w/ a much lower profile than what I got. Can't say I'm a fan at all.


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya those look like the wonder ram.
> 
> Edit: Derick's ninja post confirms it. I thought maybe the new 20nm ram had come out: http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/minisite/Greenmemory/news-event/in-the-news/detail?contentsSeq=12266&contsClassCd=G
> 
> http://www.slashgear.com/samsung-20nm-4gb-ddr3-ram-enters-mass-production-11320225/


Seems I can buy 20nm sticks here in Korea... the selector allows me to choose 40nm, 30nm and 20nm...
http://itempage3.auction.co.kr/DetailView.aspx?ItemNo=A667182299&frm3=V2


----------



## kpoeticg

Definitely still got a bunch of work to do. But seemed like relevant pics for the EK Club Thread =)


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> @EK Why did you guys change the D5 uni mount style? The pictures on FCPU showed something w/ a much lower profile than what I got. Can't say I'm a fan at all.


Same thing for me

But i think the new version is compatibke with pump cap and not with old version


----------



## Alastair

Can't wait for my EK-VGA Supremacy Bridge editions to arrive!


----------



## Hasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> soon™


Black and white + red accents. I love that combo. looks nice!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> soon™


I see that you removed the top on your TridentX....are you letting them like this?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I see that you removed the top on your TridentX....are you letting them like this?


I did the same thing with my 32GB Trident-X kit. My IR gun shows zero difference in heatsink temps with & without the red railing.

/shrug, I needed all the clearance I could get.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I have nothing on my ram and I expect RAM temperature to be inconsequential in my build. Plus I have low voltage Wonder RAM. But I could be wrong.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I see that you removed the top on your TridentX....are you letting them like this?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I did the same thing with my 32GB Trident-X kit. My IR gun shows zero difference in heatsink temps with & without the red railing.
> 
> /shrug, I needed all the clearance I could get.


^ this, it makes no difference in temp and I wanted more black, I could use the clearance as well. So I'm definitely will leave them as is.


----------



## akira749

Thanks guys!


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Hello EK Club, question for you all! I'm having an issue with my new GTX 780 Classy block and REV2.0 back plate. I've narrowed it down to one of two things: the screw heads for the screws of the block are either too tall or the recesses for said screws on the back plate are too shallow. My card was showing pretty significant signs of warping to the point that the back plate was rubbing on the second set of RAM clips on my RIVE BE. When I went ahead and took all the screws off the water block and just used the ones for the back plate the card was completely straight and level.
> 
> I'm not exactly sure what to do about this. I've found wafer head M3x4MM screws online that have <1mm heads but I'm hoping that I don't need to buy new screws to make the block and back plate work together. Any ideas on this?


Figured I'd add a couple photos of what I'm experiencing above, maybe I'm just missing something:

Here are the screws that stay installed when the back plate is installed:



And in this photo you can see that the spacer of the back plate is not sitting on the PCB of the card at all:


----------



## skupples

That is definitely a weird one. Hard to tell from the picture, is the PCB and or back plate warped by any chance?


----------



## Kranik

Unfortunately I had to take those photos with my phone, I can't find our camera, haha. As far as I can tell, no, when the card only has the back plate or the block installed it's ramrod straight. They just don't work together.


----------



## ClaggyPants

Can anyone advise on this? I've only had this block in my machine for 3 weeks and probably only totals 20 hours use over the 3 weeks. It looks a lot like corrosion but I was lead to believe that EK had this sorted now. The nickel block that I had on my 580 was in the loop for 2 years and there is not a hint of this on that block.

EDIT: should mention that this is the discoloured bit on the top left of the fins. You can see it more clearly if you click the photo.


----------



## skupples

could be a multitude of things. Left over rad gunk causing discoloration & things like that.

Are you running coolant with anti-corrosive properties?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ClaggyPants*
> 
> Can anyone advise on this? I've only had this block in my machine for 3 weeks and probably only totals 20 hours use over the 3 weeks. It looks a lot like corrosion but I was lead to believe that EK had this sorted now. The nickel block that I had on my 580 was in the loop for 2 years and there is not a hint of this on that block.
> 
> EDIT: should mention that this is the discoloured bit on the top left of the fins. You can see it more clearly if you click the photo.


That actually looks like corrosion on that edge of the jetplate and not the block per say. Hard to really tell when it's assembled honestly......


----------



## ClaggyPants

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> could be a multitude of things. Left over rad gunk causing discoloration & things like that.
> 
> Are you running coolant with anti-corrosive properties?


Yeah, EK coolant since they seemed to make such a big deal about it for their warranty terms.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That actually looks like corrosion on that edge of the jetplate and not the block per say. Hard to really tell when it's assembled honestly......


Damn, last thing I wanted to be doing was stripping this down again tomorrow.

Out of interest, anyone know what metal the jetplate is made of?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ClaggyPants*
> 
> Yeah, EK coolant since they seemed to make such a big deal about it for their warranty terms.
> Damn, last thing I wanted to be doing was stripping this down again tomorrow.
> 
> Out of interest, anyone know what metal the jetplate is made of?


Pretty sure it is stainless.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ClaggyPants*
> 
> Yeah, EK coolant since they seemed to make such a big deal about it for their warranty terms.
> Damn, last thing I wanted to be doing was stripping this down again tomorrow.
> 
> Out of interest, anyone know what metal the jetplate is made of?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Pretty sure it is stainless.


Most stainless steel alloys are still capable of corrosion, too many variables really.


----------



## ClaggyPants

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Most stainless steel alloys are still capable of corrosion, too many variables really.


What I'm worried about at this point is the fact that the jetplate physically touches the fins.


----------



## skupples

@DerickWM might have an opinion on the matter.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ClaggyPants*
> 
> What I'm worried about at this point is the fact that the jetplate physically touches the fins.


I understand that, and that is the only part that would worry me about it, if the jerplate is the cause of the oxidation, it could transfer that and start the ugliness on the block.......

What coolant u using? It's clear obviously, is a clear coolant or just DISTILLED and some sort of additive?


----------



## skupples

I would remove the block ASAP, & install one of the other jet plates. The difference is next to none.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would remove the block ASAP, & install one of the other jet plates. The difference is next to none.


This ^^^^^^


----------



## rts2468

Just built my first Watercooling rig with EK Waterblocks. Here are my current EK products.
EK-FC470 GTX - Acetal + EN (Nickel). I have two of these in SLI on. EK-ASUS-C5F-Z Northbridge/VRM Waterblock on my
ASUS Crosshair V Formula.


----------



## ClaggyPants

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I understand that, and that is the only part that would worry me about it, if the jerplate is the cause of the oxidation, it could transfer that and start the ugliness on the block.......
> 
> What coolant u using? It's clear obviously, is a clear coolant or just DISTILLED and some sort of additive?


EK coolant http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/water-additives-coolants/ek-ekoolant-clear-premix-1000ml.html

Really annoying because I only used distilled with the nickel gpu block before I got the cpu block. The only reason I went back to using the ek stuff is because I'd ran out of distilled.


----------



## ClaggyPants

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would remove the block ASAP, & install one of the other jet plates. The difference is next to none.


OK thanks, job for tomorrow


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ClaggyPants*
> 
> OK thanks, job for tomorrow


After that, PM Derick saying WTH! (assuming the discoloration doesn't come right off)


----------



## kpoeticg

Derick (I'm assuming), thanks for the mention on FB. Much appreciated


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Derick (I'm assuming), thanks for the mention on FB. Much appreciated


Saw that, nice!!


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Mmmm nice one lowfat.
> 
> In other news:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got some high quality images there... Living room is terribly setup. Need to setup a studio...somewhere.


Nice








Wow you can run 12 sticks on that board, I though 8 was alot


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ClaggyPants*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would remove the block ASAP, & install one of the other jet plates. The difference is next to none.
> 
> 
> 
> OK thanks, job for tomorrow
Click to expand...

Once disassembled take some quality photos and have them sent to me.


----------



## Pheozero

Any chance of this in Nickel+Plexi in the future like the Classy?


----------



## derickwm

Not likely, I believe we're just sticking with nickel acetal.


----------



## VSG

Please request the EK guys to offer just the copper version as well if acetal is going to be it for any block. If anything, the copper versions are made first anyway before the nickel plating.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quick question. Is this normal when installing the mosfet block?Looks like it's not leveled. I'm thinking it's just the board flexing a bit?









Sent from Note 3

Edit: just took the block off and it's not leveled. Hmm normal?


----------



## vaeron

I'm really quite sad that XFX updated their PCB. I love my GPU but I want to get it under water with one of the beautiful FC7870's!


----------



## derickwm

It's a large top, it has some internal tension forces after milling. It'll go back to normal after installed for a bit, no harm to your board.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's a large top, it has some internal tension forces after milling. It'll go back to normal after installed for a bit, no harm to your board.


Phew! Thank you so much!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quick question. Is this normal when installing the mosfet block?Looks like it's not leveled. I'm thinking it's just the board flexing a bit?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Note 3
> 
> Edit: just took the block off and it's not leveled. Hmm normal?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's a large top, it has some internal tension forces after milling. It'll go back to normal after installed for a bit, no harm to your board.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Phew! Thank you so much!


The EK block I got for my M5EX was the same way, so I disassembled it and just ever so slightly bent it back to level. Works great now!!


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's a large top, it has some internal tension forces after milling. It'll go back to normal after installed for a bit, no harm to your board.


Umm No.Face milling is intended to produce a true, flat surfacing of the material. Either it was mishandled and bent or subjected to heat and contraction in cooling. I supervise machining , fabricating, welding, and inspecting multiple materials on a daily basis. What are the manufacturing tolerances on the waterblocks you produce at EK? +/- .005 is pretty standard and usually measured by caliper/micrometer, not something seen by eye. Not trying to cause a issue, but come on. It will not go back to normal without outside influence. It will flex the board. Like your avatar, definitely dancing.


----------



## Ovrclck

Hmm... I'm not about to take it apart and void the warranty.. I'll wait and see what Derickwm says.


----------



## Ovrclck

Here's a better picture.


I don't think this is right.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Here's a better picture.
> 
> 
> I don't think this is right.


It isn't. I'm not bs'ing, I've been in metals manufact. business for 20+ yrs. There will be a tolerance on the manufactured parts that are processed by their cnc mills. They use thermal pads that are .5 and 1 mm, that looks to be well beyond that.


----------



## skupples

yeah... That doesn't look right, way too warped to just magically bend its self back. Double check your install, make sure you didn't crumple up a thermal pad or something.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> It isn't. I'm not bs'ing, I've been in metals manufact. business for 20+ yrs. There will be a tolerance on the manufactured parts that are processed by their cnc mills. They use thermal pads that are .5 and 1 mm, that looks to be well beyond that.


Layed the block on a flat leveled surface. Definitely not right.. I'm not going to install this in a $400 mobo.
Putting pressure on one side causes the other to raise up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> yeah... That doesn't look right, way too warped to just magically bend its self back. Double check your install, make sure you didn't crumple up a thermal pad or something.


Pads are fine. Looks like my build is on hold indefinitely until this is straighten out.


----------



## derickwm

"Acetal is cast and not normalized after casting, therefore it can bend after milling, especially if the top is thin and full of cavities therefore the material has forces. Some cases are more apparent than others."

You guys should see my SR-2 board. Everything you've shown so far is flat compared to it.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> "Acetal is cast and not normalized after casting, therefore it can bend after milling, especially if the top is thin and full of cavities therefore the material has forces. Some cases are more apparent than others."


So the question is can I RMA it then?


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> "Acetal is cast and not normalized after casting, therefore it can bend after milling, especially if the top is thin and full of cavities therefore the material has forces. Some cases are more apparent than others."
> 
> You guys should see my SR-2 board. Everything you've shown so far is flat compared to it.


That is the copper/ nickel base that is deflected. Now you're saying acetal is stronger than copper? Acetal is going to cause the nickel plated copper base to deform? The acetal top is confirming to the base. Your losing credibility very quickly.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> So the question is can I RMA it then?


Get some cinder blocks, & some thick books & sammich it.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quick question. Is this normal when installing the mosfet block?Looks like it's not leveled. I'm thinking it's just the board flexing a bit?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Note 3
> 
> Edit: just took the block off and it's not leveled. Hmm normal?


Look at the bottom picture. The mounting point for the screw and entire left corner is lifted.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Get some cinder blocks, & some thick books & sammich it.


You hungry Santa? Want some sammiches?


----------



## Ovrclck

I've submitted a support incident with EK. Does EK provide advanced exchanges?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I've submitted a support incident with EK. Does EK provide advanced exchanges?


When I said I disassembled it, I meant I removed it from the board, not that I took the block apart. It will honestly bend back really easy. And there won't be any wait time on your build. And, it doesn't void your warranty to bend it back either.

If you want some help with it, feel free to PM me. I'm in SoCal also, so no worries about time zone differences


----------



## ProfeZZor X

When can we expect this to hit distributor shelves?

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/R4BEMonoblock.jpg.html


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I believe the new 770 blocks use the Terminal system, just like titan/780/780ti
> 
> this is the terminal.


Do the terminal bridges come in acrylic CSQ or just the acetal? I have the acrylic terminal blocks for my Titans, and it would be nice to have an SLI link to match.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> When I said I disassembled it, I meant I removed it from the board, not that I took the block apart. It will honestly bend back really easy. And there won't be any wait time on your build. And, it doesn't void your warranty to bend it back either.
> 
> If you want some help with it, feel free to PM me. I'm in SoCal also, so no worries about time zone differences


Pmed


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Do the terminal bridges come in acrylic CSQ or just the acetal? I have the acrylic terminal blocks for my Titans, and it would be nice to have an SLI link to match.


I believe it comes in both flavors yes.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Pmed


Let me know tomorrow how it's doing!









I've found that with the full board one piece block assemblies, due to the packaging, they can be subject to getting warped during shipping, and it is pretty easy to bend them back straight.


----------



## Triangle

I just got around to remaking the spreadsheet, so if you'd like to add yourself, the link for the form is at the bottom of the OP.


----------



## Someone09

Quick question: Does anyone happen to know when the fullcover blocks for the Asus DCU2OC will be available again?

I mean, I don´t need a specific date, just a timeframe (days? weeks? months?).


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Do the terminal bridges come in acrylic CSQ or just the acetal? I have the acrylic terminal blocks for my Titans, and it would be nice to have an SLI link to match.


FC-Terminals are only made in Acetal


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> FC-Terminals are only made in Acetal


Awww, that sucks. I would have loved to be able to polish one up for my newest build.


----------



## derickwm

Only the CSQ bridges are available in plexi. Terminals as of right now are only acetal, but it is something we're looking into.

We're hoping to bring the R4BE monoblock to market in a couple weeks.


----------



## MiiX

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-sb-asus-m6g-nickel.html
"- The use of this water block prevents the use of full-lenght PCI-Express expansion cards in the 2nd PCI-Express x16 slot on the ASUS Maximus VI Gene motherboard."

Can the plexi top be turned around? Will the problem be avoided then if a waterblock for the GPU is used?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-sb-asus-m6g-nickel.html
> "- The use of this water block prevents the use of full-lenght PCI-Express expansion cards in the 2nd PCI-Express x16 slot on the ASUS Maximus VI Gene motherboard."
> 
> Can the plexi top be turned around? Will the problem be avoided then if a waterblock for the GPU is used?


I think it could work


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Only the CSQ bridges are available in plexi. Terminals as of right now are only acetal, but it is something we're looking into.
> 
> We're hoping to bring the R4BE monoblock to market in a couple weeks.


Make one for the RIVE as well, please..


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-sb-asus-m6g-nickel.html
> "- The use of this water block prevents the use of full-lenght PCI-Express expansion cards in the 2nd PCI-Express x16 slot on the ASUS Maximus VI Gene motherboard."
> 
> Can the plexi top be turned around? Will the problem be avoided then if a waterblock for the GPU is used?


I think once you put fittings on, it wont matter which way you turn it, it will hit the PCB of the card in that slot. Mind you, this is just a guess drawing a mental picture with it flipped around with fittings. But I personally would not throw money at that to find out, it just looks like a headache and disappointment waiting to happen.


----------



## Ovrclck

Here's a pic of my old setup and M6H. You can definitely flip the block..but not sure on how it fits with the Gene..That block is a pain to route tubing to.Acrylic no problem. I ended up not even using the sb block.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Mmm. The VRM's are more important to watercool anyway right?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Mmm. The VRM's are more important to watercool anyway right?


Yes sir.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Mmm. The VRM's are more important to watercool anyway right?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Yes sir.


Agree also. The PCH/Chipsets of today really do not benefit from liquid cooling aside from aesthetics, sure, they will run cooler, but they don't really generate much heat in the first place.

VRM and MOSFET temps are much more important to keep cool!


----------



## derickwm




----------



## Neo Zuko

That's the pump top I decided on. I'm going to run two of those rather than the dual top.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


mine > yours

__
https://flic.kr/p/13367829703


----------



## derickwm




----------



## Pheozero

I will honestly buy a new pump just for that pump top


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> I will honestly buy a new pump just for that pump top


^see


----------



## derickwm

Feel free to buy either, all goes to the same place


----------



## Neo Zuko

I noted that they don't sell that pump top separately from the pump.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I noted that they don't sell that pump top separately from the pump.


I mentioned that to someone in the water cooling gallery recently.


----------



## Neo Zuko

It's a strange choice that puzzled me at first. I found it pictured on some other website and was lost as to why I could not find it on the EK online shop. Then I checked the pump combo section.


----------



## Jimhans1

So you can only get it WITH an EK D5 pump, and not as a standalone item??


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> So you can only get it WITH an EK D5 pump, and not as a standalone item??


Yes. At least, that's only what I've been able to find searching around.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21015/ex-pmp-246/EK_D5_X-Top_Pump_Top_w_D5_Vario_Pump_-_Acrylic_EK-D5_Vario_X-TOP_-_Plexi_incl_pump.html?tl=g30c107s1802

But for me that worked out perfect. I was ditching my MCP35X and switching back to a D5 anyway.

It's a nice little deal IMO. If you were to purchase the XSPC vario D5 by itself and then one of EK's D5 pump tops separately, you're looking at 130. So you're saving about 10 bucks buying the D5 with an EK top combo.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Yes. At least, that's only what I've been able to find searching around.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21015/ex-pmp-246/EK_D5_X-Top_Pump_Top_w_D5_Vario_Pump_-_Acrylic_EK-D5_Vario_X-TOP_-_Plexi_incl_pump.html?tl=g30c107s1802
> 
> But for me that worked out perfect. I was ditching my MCP35X and switching back to a D5 anyway.
> 
> It's a nice little deal IMO. If you were to purchase the XSPC vario D5 by itself and then one of EK's D5 pump tops separately, you're looking at 130. So you're saving about 10 bucks buying that D5 with an EK top.


Yeah, but I only run alphacool d5 variable bare pumps. I guess I could just sell the included pump.


----------



## Neo Zuko

It works out for me too. But why limit sales with a bundle? I'm set on D5 but is anyone interested in the new MCP50X?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> It works out for me too. But why limit sales with a bundle? I'm set on D5 but is anyone interested in the new MCP50X?


Not really, it's made by swiftech. I've had enough issues with their products that I won't give them my business again.


----------



## Ovrclck

Looks a lot better. I can live with this for now. Thanks
@Jimhans1


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Looks a lot better. I can live with this for now. Thanks
> @Jimhans1


Is that the original photo or a new one? That still looks a little tweaked.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> It works out for me too. But why limit sales with a bundle? I'm set on D5 but is anyone interested in the new MCP50X?


Iv'e not read anything about it yet. Not much has changed in pump tech since DDC/D5 hit the market. I'll likely stick with my 35x3 until they blow up.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Is that the original photo or a new one? That still looks a little tweaked.


Original

As of tonight.


----------



## Jimhans1

It does look better, I'll say that. Did you check it for contact on the parts it's cooling? If it's got full contact, run it


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It does look better, I'll say that. Did you check it for contact on the parts it's cooling? If it's got full contact, run it


Yeah it's fine. I'm talking to EK about a possible replacement though. The defect makes my build look cheap.








If this is normal for the product, then why are the photos of this block perfectly fitted on retailers product pages? Lol


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Yeah it's fine. I'm talking to EK about a possible replacement though. The defect makes my build look cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If this is normal for the product, then why are the photos of this block perfectly fitted on retailers product pages? Lol


inconsistencies exist, and minor defects slip through quality control. Personally, I would remove it & gently flex it with your hands.


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Yeah it's fine. I'm talking to EK about a possible replacement though. The defect makes my build look cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If this is normal for the product, then why are the photos of this block perfectly fitted on retailers product pages? Lol


Glad you got it sorted out, I just wish I could get a response on my issue.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> inconsistencies exist, and minor defects slip through quality control. Personally, I would remove it & gently flex it with your hands.


For peace of mind, a replacement works for me granted that it doesn't suffer identical defects.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Glad you got it sorted out, I just wish I could get a response on my issue.


Sorry to hear that. I wish you all the best.


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> For peace of mind, a replacement works for me granted that it doesn't suffer identical defects.
> Sorry to hear that. I wish you all the best.


I'm of the hope they'll get to it eventually!







How are you liking the block on your Classified? Any better OC's because of it?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Yeah it's fine. I'm talking to EK about a possible replacement though. The defect makes my build look cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If this is normal for the product, then why are the photos of this block perfectly fitted on retailers product pages? Lol


Definitely don't think it's normal; I've got the same block and it's a perfect fit on my board. Hope you are able to straighten it out without too much trouble so your build doesn't get delayed. Good luck bud


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> For peace of mind, a replacement works for me granted that it doesn't suffer identical defects.
> Sorry to hear that. I wish you all the best.


They will likely request the retailer to replace the item, unless you ordered it directly from them. Shipping from Slovenia to the states is obscene, even when you have a deal w/ the carriers.

Which reminds me. I need to re-open my RMA ticket to see if they will sell me new tops for my Rev 2.0 Titan plates. Long story short, miss communication (over the holidays) lead to the wrong parts showing up. Now i'm sitting here with brand new rev 2 plates & no fitting tops. Sadly EK doesn't sell this gen tops, so hopefully I can convince them to sell me two. Iv'e been too lazy to contact them about the situation, which likely means i'm not SOL.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I really miss EK selling replacement tops for GPU blocks. It was cool having Acetal and Acrylic tops for my 7970 when I felt like making a change. Made it super easy to sell when I upgraded too.

These days I have pretty much given up on Acrylic tops just cause its too brittle for my taste but still, it was a good differentiation from other brands.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I really miss EK selling replacement tops for GPU blocks. It was cool having Acetal and Acrylic tops for my 7970 when I felt like making a change. Made it super easy to sell when I upgraded too.
> 
> These days I have pretty much given up on Acrylic tops just cause its too brittle for my taste but still, it was a good differentiation from other brands.


Our webshop sells a good variety of tops and any we don't have that you want you can create a ticket and our support will work with you on getting a new top.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Our webshop sells a good variety of tops and any we don't have that you want you can create a ticket and our support will work with you on getting a new top.












That is awesome to hear. I thought it may be on the level of pulling teeth to source a few titan tops.


----------



## derickwm

That was more orientated towards non-eol blocks/tops...

That being said, I'm not up to date with how many Titan/Titan-SE/780Ti etc tops we have around the warehouse. I'd say the sooner you ask the better though.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That was more orientated towards non-eol blocks/tops...
> 
> That being said, I'm not up to date with how many Titan/Titan-SE/780Ti etc tops we have around the warehouse. I'd say the sooner you ask the better though.


Since they are Rev 2 plates I would assume EOL hasn't happened yet. I will re-open my derp ticket tonight.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That was more orientated towards non-eol blocks/tops...
> 
> That being said, I'm not up to date with how many Titan/Titan-SE/780Ti etc tops we have around the warehouse. I'd say the sooner you ask the better though.
> 
> 
> 
> Since they are Rev 2 plates I would assume EOL hasn't happened yet. I will re-open my derp ticket tonight.
Click to expand...

Looks like EOL to me


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Looks like EOL to me












Aren't the titan tops identical to the 780Ti tops, minus the extra dig out for the extra cap?

I don't really mind what is carved into it, what material it is, or what length it is. If it fits, it's good enough.


----------



## derickwm

EK-FC Titan










EK-FC Titan-SE










Dear lawd this photography was terrible... (yes this was mine... one of the first products I worked with while in Slovenia)

EK-FC780 GTX Ti


----------



## skupples

The 780ti top looks identical to the SE... To me. Can you verify?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> inconsistencies exist, and minor defects slip through quality control. Personally, I would remove it & gently flex it with your hands.


I don't feel comfortable bending it anymore. I think it's stupid that I have to manually manipulate something that should have been perfect from the factory.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> I'm of the hope they'll get to it eventually!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are you liking the block on your Classified? Any better OC's because of it?


It's the only way! The classy's really open up on water








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Definitely don't think it's normal; I've got the same block and it's a perfect fit on my board. Hope you are able to straighten it out without too much trouble so your build doesn't get delayed. Good luck bud


PPCS just emailed the same rep at ek that i'm working with. I hoping I don't get the same message about how this is normal and will eventually level itself out.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> They will likely request the retailer to replace the item, unless you ordered it directly from them. Shipping from Slovenia to the states is obscene, even when you have a deal w/ the carriers.
> 
> Which reminds me. I need to re-open my RMA ticket to see if they will sell me new tops for my Rev 2.0 Titan plates. Long story short, miss communication (over the holidays) lead to the wrong parts showing up. Now i'm sitting here with brand new rev 2 plates & no fitting tops. Sadly EK doesn't sell this gen tops, so hopefully I can convince them to sell me two. Iv'e been too lazy to contact them about the situation, which likely means i'm not SOL.


Do it! NAO! Good luck ! Does that mean your Titans are just sitting waiting for tops?


----------



## skupples

I purchased new blocks as soon as I filed for rma


----------



## BradleyW

I really love the Acetal tops. It makes the blocks look very interesting, especially when using coloured coolant. Plus, there great for checking for air bubbles!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I really love the Acetal tops. It makes the blocks look very interesting, especially when using coloured coolant. Plus, there great for checking for air bubbles!


How can you see coloured coolant with Acetal tops? I think you meant Acrylic tops?


----------



## vaeron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The 780ti top looks identical to the SE... To me. Can you verify?


It looks like there is a bit of a tail on the divider in the middle right and the shape does not appear to be the same, but it is very close to the same. I would say they are probably just enough different that you wouldn't be able to fit them on one another, that being said, I haven't looked at the PCB nor do I have the physical specs on either of them.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I really love the Acetal tops. It makes the blocks look very interesting, especially when using coloured coolant. Plus, there great for checking for air bubbles!
> 
> 
> 
> How can you see coloured coolant with Acetal tops? I think you meant Acrylic tops?
Click to expand...

This. Yea you have it backwards BradleyW...the plexi/acrylic tops are see through, while the acetal tops are black.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaeron*
> 
> It looks like there is a bit of a tail on the divider in the middle right and the shape does not appear to be the same, but it is very close to the same. I would say they are probably just enough different that you wouldn't be able to fit them on one another, that being said, I haven't looked at the PCB nor do I have the physical specs on either of them.


It shouldnt really matter since both titan-se and 78ti blocks have removed the central screw. I thought I remembered hearing that the 780ti block and titan SE blocks are pretty much the same thing just different stand offs. This can be seen when looking at the bottom of either block. Having one block that fits near identical PCBs makes sense from a fab stand point.

All that should matter is the external screw pattern now that the centralized screw has been removed from the design.

I think I've been through this before. Gotta check my screen shot stash.


----------



## vaeron

Good to know, I was just comparing images. I've got a customer that wants either a 780Ti or Titan under water, let me know!


----------



## BradleyW

Yeah, that BradleyW guy is silly! You can't see through Acetal! Glad you guy's put him right!








Sorry, I did mean to say Acrylic. I had Acetal on the mind.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaeron*
> 
> Good to know, I was just comparing images. I've got a customer that wants either a 780Ti or Titan under water, let me know!





See... These tops look identical to me.




The only difference I see here is the size of the VRM contacts, which makes sense, since 780Ti has extra VRMs. The stand offs are even identical.

anyways, going to re-open my ticket. Wish me luck!


----------



## vaeron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See... These tops look identical to me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only difference I see here is the size of the VRM contacts, which makes sense, since 780Ti has extra VRMs. The stand offs are even identical.
> 
> anyways, going to re-open my ticket. Wish me luck!


I stand corrected! Looks like it should work to me now. Good luck!


----------



## derickwm

They don't align.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> They don't align.


What doesn't align? Like physically, what is the obstruction?


----------



## derickwm

I don't have the blocks in front of me









I'll bother the engineers in the morning.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I don't have the blocks in front of me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll bother the engineers in the morning.


please do, as by just looking @ pictures they look identical. I even printed out on transparent paper & everything lines up. Even the Titan-SE top has the dig out for the extra cap. The only visible difference I see is on the cold plates them selves, and only in the VRM section.

I thought you were the one who told me the blocks were identical, minus specific machining done to conform to the 780Ti's extra VRMs.


----------



## derickwm

I see your edit. The blocks are all very similar with just minor tweaks for each slightly different card that Nvidia likes to launch. Unfortunately if minor tweaks cause us to move just one important thing a mm it throws it all off.

I don't design them, just the messenger.


----------



## skupples




----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see your edit. The blocks are all very similar with just minor tweaks for each slightly different card that Nvidia likes to launch. Unfortunately if minor tweaks cause us to move just one important thing a mm it throws it all off.
> 
> I don't design them, just the messenger.


I was sent EK 780ti blocks for my Titans. The tops look identical to the Titan tops. The minor differences are in the VRM/MOSFET contact sections. But that's on the other side of the plate. Unfortunately my Blocks are already install and can't swap tops for comparison.

Someone told me that the GTX Titan Blocks won't fit the 780ti because of alignment issues.

How come the 780ti fits the titan cards, but the Titan blocks won't fit the 780ti?


----------



## derickwm

It's like you guys think we just make up stuff to lead you astray









They don't fit. They just don't, ask Nvidia if you wish to hear why. We modify the blocks as Nvidia releases new cards.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's like you guys think we just make up stuff to lead you astray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They don't fit. They just don't, ask Nvidia if you wish to hear why. We modify the blocks as Nvidia releases new cards.


Ok, we'll just leave it at that.

Have a nice day.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's like you guys think we just make up stuff to lead you astray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They don't fit. They just don't, ask Nvidia if you wish to hear why. We modify the blocks as Nvidia releases new cards.


I don't think you are trying to lead me astray. From what iv'e read the only difference between GK110B & GK110 is the extra VRMs. BUT, iv'e not busted out calipers to check down to the MM, still those are things that would be addressed in the machining of the bottom of the block.

I guess most of my confusion comes from some one (you? Stren? EK?) telling me that the Titan-SE/780Ti blocks start out the same, they then machine the bottoms differently to conform to the different VRM specs.

Iv'e put in my ticket, will see what Sajn/Tiborr/Lep have to say.












If it doesn't pan out it is my fault. I should have emailed them immediately upon discovering that I filed the RMA incorrectly, requesting FC-SE instead of XXL, though that still doesn't explain getting the wrong CPU block.

Seems you and Lebestia are discussing something different. I just want acetal/acrylic/cardboard/CSQ/Clean CSQ tops that fit FC-SE. I don't care what they call them or what they look like.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think you are trying to lead me astray. From what iv'e read the only difference between GK110B & GK110 is the extra VRMs. BUT, iv'e not busted out calipers to check down to the MM, still those are things that would be addressed in the machining of the bottom of the block.
> 
> I guess most of my confusion comes from some one (you? Stren? EK?) telling me that the Titan-SE/780Ti blocks start out the same, they then machine the bottoms differently to conform to the different VRM specs.
> 
> Iv'e put in my ticket, will see what Sajn/Tiborr/Lep have to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't pan out it is my fault. I should have emailed them immediately upon discovering that I filed the RMA incorrectly, requesting FC-SE instead of XXL, though that still doesn't explain getting the wrong CPU block.
> 
> Seems you and Lebestia are discussing something different.
> 
> 
> I just want acetal/acrylic/cardboard/CSQ/Clean CSQ tops that fit FC-SE. I don't care what they call them or what they look like.


i hope they send you a special edition doodoo brown replacement top with preinstalled vomit green leds that cant be removed.


----------



## skupples

will give me a reason to do a vomit green & doodoo brown themed mini-tower.


----------



## szeged

name it swamp thing please.


----------



## skupples

awww... I was thinking Tallahassee Lassy.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i hope they send you a special edition doodoo brown replacement top with preinstalled vomit green leds that cant be removed.


He did say he doesn't care


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> awww... I was thinking Tallahassee Lassy.


also good


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Even the Titan-SE top has the dig out for the extra cap. .


I have modified an SE block to fit a 780Ti. I had to grind away part of the top to fit the extra cap. The cap on the very far right would not fit.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-79-1.jpg.html


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I have modified an SE block to fit a 780Ti. I had to grind away part of the top to fit the extra cap. The cap on the very far right would not fit.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-79-1.jpg.html


So the screw holes do line up perfectly?

People running shorties will not have this problem, assuming they want to reuse their old blocks.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have modified an SE block to fit a 780Ti. I had to grind away part of the top to fit the extra cap. The cap on the very far right would not fit.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-79-1.jpg.html


I remember when you guys first did this. Very nice! Hopefully EK can give me a proper answer as to if the acetal/acrylic tops are compatible with each other... and or will still have some TITAN-SE branded tops in the warehouse.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> So the screw holes do line up perfectly?
> 
> People running shorties will not have this problem, assuming they want to reuse their old blocks.


That is correct. The only issue is that the titan block has shorter VRM contacts, which means you would want to run 1.5MM thermal pads on the 2 memory & 2 chip VRMs that don't have contact with the block.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> So the screw holes do line up perfectly?
> 
> People running shorties will not have this problem, assuming they want to reuse their old blocks.


I am using an SE top and bottom. For the block base all I needed to do was add a couple of thicker thermal pads.

When the 780Ti block first came out I asked Niko if it was possible to mount the SE top on the 780Ti block base but it says not all the screw holes line up perfectly.


----------



## Asus11

is the EK motherboard Blocks for Rampage III Extreme compatible with the Rampage III Black edition?


----------



## derickwm

It's not Asus11, they're slightly different unfortunately. Took me forever to finally track down a R3BE block, then ended up with a pair lol


----------



## Asus11

so the one on the left that is for the Black edition, the one of the right for the normal Rampage III?


----------



## derickwm

No those are both R3BE blocks.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Pshhhh it took me like a few days to track my RIIIEBE block down derickwm.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## derickwm

Pfft you got lucky and you're not even using it


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> No those are both R3BE blocks.


the right one looks exactly like the R3E block I have though

also are you selling one of the blocks?


----------



## derickwm

Sent you a PM.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Sent you a PM.


Sent you a PM.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Sent you a PM.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent you a PM.
Click to expand...

Sent you a PM.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Sent you a PM.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent you a PM.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sent you a PM.
Click to expand...

Replied with a PM.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Sent you a PM.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent you a PM.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sent you a PM.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Replied with a PM.
Click to expand...

Replied to your reply with a PM.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:
Not getting any PM's


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Sent you a PM.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent you a PM.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sent you a PM.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Replied with a PM.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Replied to your reply with a PM.
Click to expand...


----------



## dcatvn

So guys I was redoing my loop and this is what my 290x wb looks like after 2 months.





I don't know if this is normal and should I just wipe it off with Q-tip? I flushed my radiators with warm distilled water before installation.

I am using EK supremacy, EK 290x wb and backplate, 2xalphacool 480mm UT60, EK X-res 3. All fittings are BP. Also for liquid I was only using distilled water and monsoon silver bullet. Nothing else.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcatvn*
> 
> So guys I was redoing my loop and this is what my 290x wb looks like after 2 months.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if this is normal and should I just wipe it off with Q-tip? I flushed my radiators with warm distilled water before installation.
> 
> I am using EK supremacy, EK 290x wb and backplate, 2xalphacool 480mm UT60, EK X-res 3. All fittings are BP. Also for liquid I was only using distilled water and monsoon silver bullet. Nothing else.


http://www.ekwb.com/support/index.php?act=article&code=view&id=22


----------



## skupples

doesn't look terrible. Looks like there may be some plasticizer in the channels, and just general discoloration on the nickel. I wouldn't use silver w/ nickel though. I would use a high quality coolant which includes anti-corrosive, anti-bacterial, & surfactant. EK makes there own, and Mayhem's makes some of the best, called "X1"


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> doesn't look terrible. Looks like there may be some plasticizer in the channels, and just general discoloration on the nickel. I wouldn't use silver w/ nickel though. I would use a high quality coolant which includes anti-corrosive, anti-bacterial, & surfactant. EK makes there own, and Mayhem's makes some of the best, called "X1"


The block is copper


----------



## PCModderMike

Copper


----------



## akira749

That Steve Carell face


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Copper


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The block is copper




Brasso time.

erm... statement still stands. I wouldn't use silver. Would use an all in one additive/pre-mix.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcatvn*
> 
> So guys I was redoing my loop and this is what my 290x wb looks like after 2 months.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if this is normal and should I just wipe it off with Q-tip? I flushed my radiators with warm distilled water before installation.
> 
> I am using EK supremacy, EK 290x wb and backplate, 2xalphacool 480mm UT60, EK X-res 3. All fittings are BP. Also for liquid I was only using distilled water and monsoon silver bullet. Nothing else.


Try using EK coolant, plain distilled water didn't play well with my EK blocks either.

Soak those copper plates in ketchup for a few hours, they will clear right up.









Edit: If you open up the blocks, order new o rings. Play it safe.


----------



## Elmy

Eventually I'll get a EK CPU block and change all the fittings out to EK as well. 

Here is the album if your interested in scrolling through.. NM the pics of my friends family LoL

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/12884644803/in/photostream/


----------



## Neo Zuko

Does this product use the new eletroless nickel plating process?

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/ram-blocks/ek-ram-monarch-x4-acetal-nickel-csq.html

Can I expect all blocks to use the new process nowadays? Like the Maximus VI series of blocks and the new CPU/GPU blocks...


----------



## skupples

Beautiful work elmy!


----------



## Neo Zuko

That front window is interesting Elmy, how was that done?


----------



## Elmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> That front window is interesting Elmy, how was that done?


Laser etched Plexiglass by a company called "Those Light signs"

http://thoselightsigns.com/

My original plan was to have a bubble wall behind the plexi. I might still attempt it. Haven't made my mind up yet. This is a LAN rig that I go to about 4-7 LAN's a year with so its basically a show rig. I have sponsors too. EK being one of them.

Here is a Youtube video showing the rig last July. It had dual 7990's in it then. Now it has 2 290X's and soon to be 2 295X2's....





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Beautiful work elmy!


Thanks


----------



## Kimir

This is stunning Elmy, indeed!








You should get some white backplates


----------



## Elmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> This is stunning Elmy, indeed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should get some white backplates


I had some Chrome backplates for my 7990's but then I switched over to the Club3D 290X's and didn't get the EK backplates.

I'll make sure I get some either white or chrome backplates for my 295X2's 

http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Elmnator/media/20131105_185106.jpg.html


----------



## PCModderMike

Those look awesome. I think @stren might want to check those out.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Those look awesome. I think @stren might want to check those out.


GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME DID YOU CUSTOM PLATE? I MUST KNOW! @Elmy - it sounds like you're not using them anymore? Are they for sale or am I going to have to plate my own backplates lulz


----------



## Kimir

Ah chrome yeah, even better with the chrome tubes, gj


----------



## Elmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME DID YOU CUSTOM PLATE? I MUST KNOW!


They are just sitting in my garage. If you want them PM me and mb we can work something out.

They are chrome plated by Art Brass in Seattle WA. They are like mirrors as you can see in the picture.

They are for V2 7990's.


----------



## dredeziel1

That looks freaking awesome dude..gj


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elmy*
> 
> They are just sitting in my garage. If you want them PM me and mb we can work something out.
> 
> They are chrome plated by Art Brass in Seattle WA. They are like mirrors as you can see in the picture.
> 
> They are for V2 7990's.


Pm'ing you right now, yeah I have two 7990 maltas with nickel plexi SE blocks that these would look perfect on!


----------



## kpoeticg

Do you guys put alot of effort into cleaning ram pcb's and ic's before adding thermal paste and pads?

I'm using a non-abrasive cloth. But i hate cleaning pcb's with cloth because it always sticks to the resistors and everything else. And i don't have any alcohol handy, except maybe ArctiClean Step 1.


----------



## szeged

Drink some wild turkey then lick the paste off.


----------



## kpoeticg

LOLLLLL. The thermal tape actually came off pretty clean.

Obviously i'll make sure there's none leftover before i add my drop of Gelid and the thermal pads, but i know that ek recommends using denatured alcohol to clean the pcb.

Just wasn't sure if - Can't see any adhesive left on the pcb = clean enough

Edit: The tape on the Trident's is pretty tough. My first attempt at cooling tridents, a memory chip came off the pcb before the thermal tape came off.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Elmy makes me rethink my acrylic hardline plan for nickel plated copper. But only for a minute. Acrylic is the way to go for me. Clear and easy to bend. And cheap.


----------



## Elmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Elmy makes me rethink my acrylic hardline plan for nickel plated copper. But only for a minute. Acrylic is the way to go for me. Clear and easy to bend. And cheap.


Between the copper pipe , bender and chrome plating. Probably run me about 400.00 or so.

I think arcylic is a lot cheaper.

Both of my radiators are also chrome plated and so is the heat shield on my Asus STX sound card. Expensive but it looks awesome.

Having awesome sponsors like EK sure helps though budget wise building a rig like mine.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elmy*
> 
> Between the copper pipe , bender and chrome plating. Probably run me about 400.00 or so.
> 
> I think arcylic is a lot cheaper.
> 
> Both of my radiators are also chrome plated and so is the heat shield on my Asus STX sound card. Expensive but it looks awesome.
> 
> Having awesome sponsors like EK sure helps though budget wise building a rig like mine.


Indeed. I'd due acrylic first just to get up and running and work my way up to plated copper tubes. Which rads did you use? I assume it's one you can remove the core from. By the way, props for the Johnny 5 avatar. Loved those movies as a kid.


----------



## DancingOnAshes

Woo, finally got my D5 and 120 radiator delivered.





So, with this setup, what would you other D5 vario users recommend I keep my pump rpm at? The rad in the top is a 240 btw.


----------



## King4x4

Setting 4 is always good.


----------



## Elmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Indeed. I'd due acrylic first just to get up and running and work my way up to plated copper tubes. Which rads did you use? I assume it's one you can remove the core from. By the way, props for the Johnny 5 avatar. Loved those movies as a kid.


Yes I also loved the Short Circuit movies as a kid. The 80's were full of so many great movies.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_671&products_id=35559

Radiator I used. I have one 480 and one 240 both chrome plated. The shell of the radiators were chrome plated and the core was nickle plated. This was expensive though... Cost me 600 for the chroming of the shell and nickle plating of the cores.

Here is a pic of the radiator.
http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Elmnator/media/20130629_193429.jpg.html


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DancingOnAshes*
> 
> Woo, finally got my D5 and 120 radiator delivered.
> 
> So, with this setup, what would you other D5 vario users recommend I keep my pump rpm at? The rad in the top is a 240 btw.


With that loop, speed setting 3 will be more than enough to keep the water flowing at a very good rate. My loop is huge and I too only require speed setting 3 for great performance.
Question, do you hear a gurgling or grinding noise at full speed?


----------



## DancingOnAshes

I don't, only a brief gurgle as air gets dislodged when I crank it up to 5.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> With that loop, speed setting 3 will be more than enough to keep the water flowing at a very good rate. My loop is huge and I too only require speed setting 3 for great performance.
> Question, do you hear a gurgling or grinding noise at full speed?


Sounds like your top might be on too tight OE it is sucking air.


----------



## snef

another Ek Loop


Usual Cpu Shoot, but i want to show the Memory block, to much nickel, add little bit of white and the result is really good


----------



## PCModderMike

Another stunner snef, good job.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What paint did you use on those backplates? Looks incredibly well done. Thinking about painting my classy backplate a forest green color for a Final Fantasy themed build.


----------



## Kimir

Moar white stuff, I like!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> What paint did you use on those backplates? Looks incredibly well done. Thinking about painting my classy backplate a forest green color for a Final Fantasy themed build.


I used Krylon Dual Primer+Paint (gloss white). It's a really solid product, sprays nice and dries quick. I ordered replacement EK badges and took off the old ones to paint underneath the badges.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I used Krylon Dual Primer+Paint (gloss white). It's a really solid product, sprays nice and dries quick. I ordered replacement EK badges and took off the old ones to paint underneath the badges.


Where do you get the replacement EK badges? I want some!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elmy*
> 
> Yes I also loved the Short Circuit movies as a kid. The 80's were full of so many great movies.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_671&products_id=35559
> 
> Radiator I used. I have one 480 and one 240 both chrome plated. The shell of the radiators were chrome plated and the core was nickle plated. This was expensive though... Cost me 600 for the chroming of the shell and nickle plating of the cores.
> 
> Here is a pic of the radiator.
> http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Elmnator/media/20130629_193429.jpg.html


Looks amazing (did you plate the screws too?!) but why did you plate the core? With push pull you would not even see it... That seems to be where you lost a bit of money for little benefit.

I remember asking my dad if Johny 5 was going to die. He was like its a kids movie what do you think? As a kid myself at the time I was relieved









By the way does anyone know if all the EK stuff is Electroless Nickel Plating by now? What products are not? My question was buried in Elmy's awesomeness...


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Where do you get the replacement EK badges? I want some!!


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18967/ex-blc-1420/EK_Logo_Aluminum_Badges_-_Silver_5_Pack_EK-Badge_5_pcs.html?tl=g57c593s1950


----------



## Elmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Where do you get the replacement EK badges? I want some!!
> Looks amazing (did you plate the screws too?!) but why did you plate the core? With push pull you would not even see it... That seems to be where you lost a bit of money for little benefit.
> 
> I remember asking my dad if Johny 5 was going to die. He was like its a kids movie what do you think? As a kid myself at the time I was relieved
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way does anyone know if all the EK stuff is Electroless Nickel Plating by now? What products are not? My question was buried in Elmy's awesomeness...




If you look at the bottom rad you can still see through the fans. This rig is seen by a few thousand people a year at various events. So every detail counts. I know I took a little performance hit by nickel plating the core of the radiator but this is a show rig .

Yes the screws were chrome plated too.

IDK if EK uses Electroless plating on all their nickel stuff now. Someone from EK should chime in here shortly.


----------



## dervladimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*


Fantastic!


----------



## snef

Thanks

Leak test and Night shoot







i like the result,
i understand why other brand released white whater cooling parts
really like white EK parts


----------



## wermad

@Elmy & Snef, those are some insane and beautiful builds


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elmy*
> 
> If you look at the bottom rad you can still see through the fans. This rig is seen by a few thousand people a year at various events. So every detail counts. I know I took a little performance hit by nickel plating the core of the radiator but this is a show rig .
> 
> Yes the screws were chrome plated too.
> 
> IDK if EK uses Electroless plating on all their nickel stuff now. Someone from EK should chime in here shortly.


































any Build log?


----------



## Elmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any Build log?


http://www.pdxlan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16859

I didn't post a log here. I am sponsored so I have to pay for a build log here. I should get it done just to put it here too. I am spending most of my forum time here now.

Its pretty much done now for the most part. Still doing a few odds and ends to it. I would like to redo the window too. IDK when I'll get to it. I love to play games too much... LoL

I have 2 295X2's incoming here soon. I might be switching all the fittings out to EK here soon.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/12884644803/in/photostream/ here is a flicker acct you can scroll through some more pictures if you would like.

I am a big fan of your work too and always check your stuff out.


----------



## Elmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @Elmy & Snef, those are some insane and beautiful builds


Thanks


----------



## snef

@Elmy
be sure im a big fan of your work, just in my taste Wow!!! i love it


----------



## Elmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> @Elmy
> be sure im a big fan of your work, just in my taste Wow!!! i love it


Thanks









Here is a little video I took last July of it in action with my 5 monitors... IDK if you have seen it yet or not. I had 7990's in it in this video.


----------



## madcratebuilder

I'm going to make the next PDXLAN event, I got to see this in person.


----------



## Elmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> I'm going to make the next PDXLAN event, I got to see this in person.


www.pdxlan.net

Its an awesome event. 3 times a year... The big one is in Feb and July ( over 500 attendees) that has the most prizing and tournaments.

The one in July is sold out but if you check the forums everyday from now until event time you might be able to snag yourself a ticket and since it sounds like your a PDXLAN virgin you can come hang with me if you want. 

Its the most watercooled LAN in the United States. A lot of EK in rigs there.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Thanks for the invite. I'll dehydrate from drooling! I've been the website and always wanted to go to a event.


----------



## skupples

Florida is so devoid of good LAN parties that it makes me cry @ night.


----------



## szeged

florida is almost void of any good computer related stuff.


----------



## skupples

If you sleeve it they will come.

I think we have one LAN party (in Orlando) and one tech conference (Tiger Direct Bash).... Tiger Direct Bash was a joke last year. The music was SO LOUD that you could barely communicate with the vendors. Iv'e been harassing NVIDIA to let me showcase my system there this year.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> *If you sleeve it they will come.
> *
> I think we have one LAN party (in Orlando) and one tech conference (Tiger Direct Bash).... Tiger Direct Bash was a joke last year. The music was SO LOUD that you could barely communicate with the vendors. Iv'e been harassing NVIDIA to let me showcase my system there this year.


thats why i said almost







atleast we got ppcs lol.


----------



## Elmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Florida is so devoid of good LAN parties that it makes me cry @ night.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> florida is almost void of any good computer related stuff.


You could always start your own LAN party


----------



## szeged

too much effort, you underestimate the amount of lazy dwelling in my body


----------



## Elmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> too much effort, you underestimate the amount of lazy dwelling in my body


ROFLMAO


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> too much effort, you underestimate the amount of lazy dwelling in my body


"There's a lot of quit in that boy."


----------



## szeged

I'll work all day as long as I'm getting paid, as soon as I have to do work for others that doesnt pay or requires my own money....cya later.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I'll work all day as long as I'm getting paid, as soon as I have to do work for others that doesnt pay or requires my own money....cya later.


So, when you getting a Titan Z and 295X2?


----------



## sena

Guys are you unable to visit ekwb web page, i want to order some things but cant load it.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Guys are you unable to visit ekwb web page, i want to order some things but cant load it.


I had that problem yesterday, but today it's okay.


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I had that problem yesterday, but today it's okay.


Damn, thx for input.
Its not working on my side, i really need bridge for three blocks, looks like i am going to order it from ebay.


----------



## wermad

Mine works.

Try the shop link:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Guys are you unable to visit ekwb web page, i want to order some things but cant load it.


are you using firefox?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Leak test and Night shoot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i like the result,
> i understand why other brand released white whater cooling parts
> really like white EK parts


I feel sorry for anyone who has to run with you in next month's Mod of the Month. Goodness gracious that is beautiful. And you've actually done mods, unlike half of the builds that were in the last running.

You should make a custom SLI bridge cover though !


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So, when you getting a Titan Z and 295X2?


when my kingpins die







which should be never unless i forget to insulate the ln2 pot properly or something lol.


----------



## lowfat

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-18.jpg.html


----------



## Ragsters

Can you guys tell me what the height difference between the EK Supremacy block and the EK Monarch block is? I want to use two 90s between them.


----------



## kpoeticg

A 30mm extension evens them up

The actual distance between the tops might be closer to 32-33mm

Edit: Damn @lowfat, you really should have the trademark on the name "Clean CSQ". You've officially got that mastered.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-18.jpg.html


Just gorgeous there mr @lowfat


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## skupples

Those turned out amazing!


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mine works.
> 
> Try the shop link:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/


No luck, looks like its my provider problem.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> are you using firefox?


Nope, tried opera and explorer, no luck.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can you guys tell me what the height difference between the EK Supremacy block and the EK Monarch block is? I want to use two 90s between them.


i used a 30mm spacer, for me, the exact distance is 31mm


----------



## bmgjet

Picked up a EK Kit L240 to replace my Antec 920.
A good 10C drop over it allowing me to run .08 more V on vcore.



GPUs have Antec 620s on them. Wanted to go will full cover blocks but being non-reference there were no blocks that would fit.
Antec 920 has gone to my other PC.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-18.jpg.html


Beautiful!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> i used a 30mm spacer, for me, the exact distance is 31mm


Thanks Snef!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Does EK make a clean CSQ acetal top for 2 RAM modules?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Does EK make a clean CSQ acetal top for 2 RAM modules?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


This?? http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_294&products_id=38769


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> This?? http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_294&products_id=38769


Yes, that! Thanks. Didn't see it on frozen. Didn't think to look there, +rep.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Yes, that! Thanks. Didn't see it on frozen. Didn't think to look there, +rep.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


My pleasure, glad to help out.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I used to live right in NJ, great for FrozenCPU deliveries without tax. Now I have to pay out loads for CA shipping lol.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Edit: Damn @lowfat
> , you really should have the trademark on the name "Clean CSQ". You've officially got that mastered.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Just gorgeous there mr @lowfat


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Beautiful!


Thanks.









Got the D5 mounted and I guess the new mounting isn't awful but the old one definitely is better looking.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-24.jpg.html


----------



## derickwm

"Classy"

Intel Xeon X5680

Asus Rampage III Black Edition

3x4GB Corsair Dominator GT "Black Edition"

4x Asus ROG Matrix 7970

LEPA 1600W + Enermax Platimax 600W









































































More pics in log


----------



## szeged

is this a build log for dust or is there a computer im not seeing somewhere?


----------



## derickwm

Just dust.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Thanks for being awesome EK!!!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just dust.


thats what i though but i couldnt tell, i guess one of the dust particles just looks like a computer.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just dust.


Not dust, decay! All that stuffs old


----------



## LaBestiaHumana




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*


Needs pastel gold in them acrylic tubes


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Needs pastel gold in them acrylic tubes


Gold huh?

Link me to some products, and the Beast shall try it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Gold huh?
> 
> Link me to some products, and the Beast shall try it


Mike from Mayhems had the recipe for gold. Let me see if I can find it or reach out to him.


----------



## szeged

id say go for a copper color


----------



## silveralf

Hi there to all EK users ))

I'm considering to buy the EK-RAM Monarch Module and I have the G.Skill Ripjaws X memory.

Can anyone confirm that the modules will fit this memory dims?

Thanks!


----------



## montyman03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Thanks for being awesome EK!!!


How was it working with the norprene?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *montyman03*
> 
> How was it working with the norprene?


Norprene, or EK's variant are both amazing products. The stuff EK uses is much more flexible than Tygon Norprene.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silveralf*
> 
> Hi there to all EK users ))
> 
> I'm considering to buy the EK-RAM Monarch Module and I have the G.Skill Ripjaws X memory.
> 
> Can anyone confirm that the modules will fit this memory dims?
> 
> Thanks!


Yes those are compatible.


----------



## silveralf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes those are compatible.


Thank you. Couldn't find the info on the EK shop page








Rep. +1


----------



## montyman03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Norprene, or EK's variant are both amazing products. The stuff EK uses is much more flexible than Tygon Norprene.


Unfortunately, EK's version doesn't come in 1/2 x 3/4 otherwise I would go with that stuff


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silveralf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes those are compatible.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. Couldn't find the info on the EK shop page
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rep. +1
Click to expand...

It's pretty safe to assume that the Monarch modules will fit all RAM. I even got them to fit the tiny Samsung "wonder" dimms


----------



## akira749

@derickwm Do you know if EK will release the EK-Ascendacy?


----------



## derickwm

Yep. We're hoping for a summer release.


----------



## VSG

Second that question! I would love to test it out against my AQ6.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yep. We're hoping for a summer release.


Thanks









Then I think I will put a cheaper control solution for now in the S8 and replace it with it when it comes out this summer.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

For those who dont know I had a bit of a leak when I first filled my loop, the leak ended up with coolant pooling around the GPU block and the 7990 block is worrying me a bit as there is still coolant outside the oring that hasnt evaporated, between the plexi and nickel, I think this is where the leaked fluid came in from the outside rather than the block leaking but I dont really want to have to take the block apart to clean it, how easily do those big orings go back into place? There are also a couple of bits of crap caught up in the fins of the gpu block, circled, any way of getting these out? They touch the surface of the plexi block so are visible even with pastel coolant in so if possible it would be nice to get them out.


----------



## skupples

It definitely isn't a walk in the park, and I would assume an O-ring of that size would be an even bigger PITA. I would recommend using some water, or getting some silicone based machine lube then use just a teeny tiny bit to hold it in place.


----------



## derickwm

Use a bunch of stop/plug fittings. Lay in the o-ring one small section at a time and place a fitting on top of it and slowly move around the entirety of the block until the entire ring is in. Super easy this way. Otherwise it'll be a struggle with that big of a block.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

The block came apart really easily and the oring actually stayed in place for the most part, I was able to easily replace the rest with a bit of water, much easier than it was flipping the G1/4 ports on the side of the block. All clean now, there was some more crap hiding under the metal part of the block which you couldnt see from the surface, it was neat to see how it all works on the inside, not a view you usually get


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's pretty safe to assume that the Monarch modules will fit all RAM. I even got them to fit the tiny Samsung "wonder" dimms


Any issues or trick to it? I has wonder ram too and was thinking of doing this...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yep. We're hoping for a summer release.


Any chance this will be able to do flow, temp, fan control? I'm excited. Please use a good full color LCD. A two bay glass LCD with multi touch would be amazing. If not make a wifi iphone / iPad mini app and I'll mode those in my pc!!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Any issues or trick to it? I has wonder ram too and was thinking of doing this...
> Any chance this will be able to do flow, temp, fan control? I'm excited. Please use a good full color LCD. A two bay glass LCD with multi touch would be amazing. If not make a wifi iphone / iPad mini app and I'll mode those in my pc!!


Here is how I put them on my Gskill Ram step by step how I did it. right *here*


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *montyman03*
> 
> How was it working with the norprene?


What Skups said! You just have to avoid tight turns and all is good!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's pretty safe to assume that the Monarch modules will fit all RAM. I even got them to fit the tiny Samsung "wonder" dimms
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any issues or trick to it? I has wonder ram too and was thinking of doing this...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yep. We're hoping for a summer release.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Any chance this will be able to do flow, temp, fan control? I'm excited. Please use a good full color LCD. A two bay glass LCD with multi touch would be amazing. If not make a wifi iphone / iPad mini app and I'll mode those in my pc!!
Click to expand...

Depending on the motherboard; I found that it's a little easier to insert the dimms into the ram slots, and then place the module and tighten on the dimm while it's already in the motherboard. Otherwise the dimm kind of "slips" into the module when pushing in the dimm+module into the slot, since it was created with the taller, standard sized dimms in mind.

It'll have allllll the things.


----------



## VSG

Include RGB control as well if possible. Also, since it already has a water block installed, does it have a temp/flow sensor in-built or maybe an optional attachment to do so? It would make things a lot simpler and reduce on wires going all over the place.


----------



## szeged

dont forget to add a coffee maker pls.


----------



## VSG

Better yet, give it the ability to powdercoat things if we are asking for stuff!


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Depending on the motherboard; I found that it's a little easier to insert the dimms into the ram slots, and then place the module and tighten on the dimm while it's already in the motherboard. Otherwise the dimm kind of "slips" into the module when pushing in the dimm+module into the slot, since it was created with the taller, standard sized dimms in mind.
> 
> It'll have allllll the things.


@Derickwm what is the best way or what do i use to hold the gaskets in place on a FC bridge before i tighten it down.Thanks


----------



## derickwm

This is your best for anything having to do with o-rings. I also believe I made a video that's posted on the EK YT page.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> @Derickwm what is the best way or what do i use to hold the gaskets in place on a FC bridge before i tighten it down.Thanks


A dab of silicone grease will keep them in place. I've been using grease for a few years now and helps a ton holding the o-rings in place. You can find silicone grease in the plumbing section of your local hardware store. I haven't seen any issues and they include grease with my replacement filters for my drinking water filtration system. So, if its safe for drinking water, no worries w/ wc puters imho


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A dab of silicone grease will keep them in place. I've been using grease for a few years now and helps a ton holding the o-rings in place. You can find silicone grease in the plumbing section of your local hardware store. I haven't seen any issues and they include grease with my replacement filters for my drinking water filtration system. *So, if its safe for drinking water, no worries w/ wc puters imho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


But, drinking water isn't the best for WC puters, and mammals shouldn't drink DISTILLED water/DI water as it can leech nutrients from them........

Just food for thought.


----------



## exyia

I've been out of the tech world for a while with a motherboard RMA and moving into my new home

just got my motherboard back now and it's ready to install back into my system, but I'm taking the chance now while everything's apart to pull the trigger on watercooling (first time)

but where did all the EK GTX Titan full pcb-covered blocks go?

are they all replaced by the part# *ex-blc-1596* ???
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22311/ex-blc-1596/EK_GeForce_780_GTX_Ti_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_CSQ_EK-FC780_GTX_Ti_-_Nickel_Original_CSQ.html?tl=g30c311s1996&id=WpWDuf22&mv_pc=4588#blank

and if so I have to live with my titans being labeled as 780 Ti's on the blocks?


----------



## derickwm

Yes, EK-FC Titan was replaced by EK-FC Titan SE (when 780s were released) and shortly after those were replaced with the EK-FC 780 Ti blocks to ensure compatibility with all 3 cards.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> But, drinking water isn't the best for WC puters, and mammals shouldn't drink DISTILLED water/DI water as it can leech nutrients from them........
> 
> Just food for thought.


Not saying filtered tap water for pc water cooling







. Just pointing out that silicone grease is used for general plumbing. Filters usually consist of plastics or silicone where the grease is applied are safe since they include small packs of this. If its safe for these applications, I see no harm in applying it to the most common w/c parts. I've heard a few arguments against using grease but I have had no issues.

As far as drinking pure di water (sans minerals), my advise, when it comes to your health, if you're not sure, ask your doc







. I know its used a lot for certain medical applications (and also alcohol







). Though its interesting you say di will cannibalize nutrients from the body? interesting, I'll have to look into since I'm curious now


----------



## MeanBruce

Corsair H100i, I love you man been so amazing to me, but you are about to be retired.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6928_zps9c581311.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6927_zps679a53da.jpg.html

WooHoo an EK club.


----------



## duckweedpb7

Hmmm what's this?


Oooo I see....


Very Nice


Annnnnnnd


Last but not least!


Last one didn't come out so great but you get the idea.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not saying filtered tap water for pc water cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Just pointing out that silicone grease is used for general plumbing. Filters usually consist of plastics or silicone where the grease is applied are safe since they include small packs of this. If its safe for these applications, I see no harm in applying it to the most common w/c parts. I've heard a few arguments against using grease but I have had no issues.
> 
> As far as drinking pure di water (sans minerals), my advise, when it comes to your health, if you're not sure, ask your doc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I know its used a lot for certain medical applications (and also alcohol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Though its interesting you say di will cannibalize nutrients from the body? interesting, I'll have to look into since I'm curious now


Yes it actually will as the water does not want to be pure it wants impurities in it. So it will absorb minerals from you or anything...


----------



## Hasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Yes it actually will as the water does not want to be pure it wants impurities in it. So it will absorb minerals from you or anything...


For more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Osmosis


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not saying filtered tap water for pc water cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Just pointing out that silicone grease is used for general plumbing. Filters usually consist of plastics or silicone where the grease is applied are safe since they include small packs of this. If its safe for these applications, I see no harm in applying it to the most common w/c parts. I've heard a few arguments against using grease but I have had no issues.
> 
> As far as drinking pure di water (sans minerals), my advise, when it comes to your health, if you're not sure, ask your doc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I know its used a lot for certain medical applications (and also alcohol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Though its interesting you say di will cannibalize nutrients from the body? interesting, I'll have to look into since I'm curious now


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Yes it actually will as the water does not want to be pure it wants impurities in it. So it will absorb minerals from you or anything...


Scroll down the page to the area that has the heading: health effects of drinking purified water.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deionized_water

Now, how about that EK stuff, lol. Sorry for the OT subject.


----------



## wermad

Well, not to delve too much off topic but these interesting links:

http://chemistry.about.com/od/waterchemistry/f/Can-You-Drink-Distilled-Water.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Distilled_water#Drinking_distilled_water

I'll ask the doc on my next visit. I don't plan on drinking di water







.

edit: di = distilled water not de-ionized water.

Anyways, back on-topic: under taking acrylic again. Only testing for now and if its feasible, I may go back to hard acrylic. Does ek have any rotary male-to-male fittings?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Scroll down the page to the area that has the heading: health effects of drinking purified water.
> http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deionized_water


yes but purified is good for you not distilled pure water...

Also who agrees that water will not conduct electricity?


----------



## MeanBruce

How do you become a member here?

My fiancée does enjoy the pink packaging, hubba hubba...









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6918_zpsce2ff942.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6909_zps1191ae99.jpg.html


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckweedpb7*
> 
> Hmmm what's this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oooo I see....
> 
> 
> Very Nice
> 
> 
> Annnnnnnd
> 
> 
> Last but not least!
> 
> 
> 
> Last one didn't come out so great but you get the idea.


Is that an Ikari?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Only the CSQ bridges are available in plexi. Terminals as of right now are only acetal, but it is something we're looking into.


If EK does consider producing an acrylic version of the terminal bridge links, will it be something that'll be produced this year?


----------



## derickwm

We have been considering it for a while now. I can't guarantee anything or won't make any estimates that will ultimately not be true on an ETA. As soon as I know, you guys will know.


----------



## duckweedpb7

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Is that an Ikari?
> 
> 
> 
> It is actually a sensei raw
Click to expand...


----------



## Nichismo

May I join the Club?


----------



## akira749

Derick, Yesterday EK finally released the EK-FC780 GTX WF3 block. Currently they only show the acetal version but do you know when the plexi version will show up? Have you seen the plexi version?

Thanks


----------



## derickwm

Plexi version is in our web shop. We just don't have photos ready yet.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Plexi version is in our web shop. We just don't have photos ready yet.












It wasn't this morning when I wrote this.

I just need to see if it's a full or partial plexi top to make my decision.









I also need to wait for the backplate









Thanks Derick


----------



## derickwm

AFAIK the plexi version is the same size as the acetal block. Only blocks that are going to be frosted CSQ, will extend to cover the entire PCB.


----------



## niklot1981

__
https://flic.kr/p/13763909314


__
https://flic.kr/p/13763908994


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> AFAIK the plexi version is the same size as the acetal block. Only blocks that are going to be frosted CSQ, will extend to cover the entire PCB.


That's what I imagined but from what I see there won't be any original CSQ for this block.


----------



## derickwm

There won't be, I was just talking about in general.


----------



## akira749

The dreaded question....acetal or plexi


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The dreaded question....acetal or plexi


Polished acrylic.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Polished acrylic.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Polished acrylic.


Polished Acetal.


----------



## MeanBruce

You can polish the pump block Really? How?









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6923_zpsfad9c389.jpg.html

Big Smiles:

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6706_zpsf2aaa1a8.jpg.html


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Polished Acetal.


Acetal sands and polishes poorly from my experience.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Acetal sands and polishes poorly from my experience.


Now I want to try it. Hmmm. I guess it would be best to buy a "parts" top to test it on.
www.ekwb.com/shop here I come.


----------



## PCModderMike

For some reason I just don't see that working out well at all....but if you find different with your "testing" please report back.


----------



## Jimhans1

Ehhh, a spare top for the EK CPU blocks aren't that much, $18 at FCPU......

For science!


----------



## PCModderMike

For science then!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Now I want to try it. Hmmm. I guess it would be best to buy a "parts" top to test it on.
> www.ekwb.com/shop here I come.


I tried doing an acetal pump top last year. I have not being able to bring a finish to the top at all. It is actually much more dull after I tried sanding and polishing it.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> You can polish the pump block Really? How?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6923_zpsfad9c389.jpg.html
> 
> Big Smiles:
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6706_zpsf2aaa1a8.jpg.html


oh my gosh, the dog !!


----------



## Jimhans1

Looks like he's/she's having an allergic reaction to something. Still cute as all get out!!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Big Smiles:


Trade wc'ing equipment for dog?


----------



## kpoeticg

A little more progress on my loop. Should be leaktested enough by the time i wake up to finally boot my system up again


----------



## PCModderMike

I suddenly have a sweet tooth.


----------



## skupples

Dog get stung by a bee?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The dreaded question....acetal or plexi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Polished acrylic.
Click to expand...

Decision has been made and the verdict is : Plexi


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A dab of silicone grease will keep them in place. I've been using grease for a few years now and helps a ton holding the o-rings in place. You can find silicone grease in the plumbing section of your local hardware store. I haven't seen any issues and they include grease with my replacement filters for my drinking water filtration system. So, if its safe for drinking water, no worries w/ wc puters imho


Rep +1 Thanks


----------



## Hasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> A little more progress on my loop. Should be leaktested enough by the time i wake up to finally boot my system up again


Looks like candy!

Sweet!


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Dog get stung by a bee?


Yea poor little guy, tried to eat a bee.









So beautiful kpoeticg.









Anyone using one of these EK-UNI Holder D5 pump base/mounts? Hoping the included rubber feet will be enough to absorb any noise from the pump, if not thought I might cut the middle out of a Shoggy sandwich and slip the pump inside or use some .5inch Sorbothane hemispheres. Using some 2inch hemispheres now as feet for a CaseLabs M8 to absorb the H100i vibration, since my rig is positioned desktop and not on the floor.

They work so much better than the stock CL hard rubber feet.

Am I stressing way too much over this D5 pump noise issue that's really a non-issue?









Pick up the AquaComputer D5 Aquabus on Monday, PPCS is sleeving it with BitsPower extra thick black sleeving, cost $8 more.... I hope it looks ok...









Also decided on EK fluid for "The Little Custom All in One that Could" Chugga Chugga woo woo, and a Monsoon silver bullet, sound like a solid plan?



http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/ek-uni-holder-d5_02_zpse7731509.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/sorbofeet_zps1401f9cc.jpg.html


----------



## GringoKillah1

Hi guys, can i join your club?








This is my build:
EK Supremacy - Acetal
EK FC Titan - Acetal\Nickel
EK FC Titan BackPlate
EK Res 150
EK-RAM Monarch Module - Black
EK DDC Top v1
EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm
Koolance PmP 400
Alphacool Nexos 280mm
Phobya Extreme 200
Enzotech BCFS-ID3/8-OD5/8
Corsair Obsidian 650D


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






I still work on it, wait for some details


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Santas Candy canes!

I dig the components, but the color scheme is off. Copper, white and red don't really go well in my head. As part of constructive criticism, it's let go of the red coolant and white accents.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hasty*
> 
> Looks like candy!
> 
> Sweet!


----------



## MeanBruce

Copper and red is a difficult one I'm not completely certain why, I had to go with matte black for my copper block, but with the extreme complexity kpoetic has built into his loop, I like it, amazing.









But with my simple loop, the copper and red in combination just looks awful.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6911_zpse43ed1d0.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6928_zps9c581311.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6927_zps679a53da.jpg.html


----------



## wermad

Copper and red go nicely imho.

Also, green + copper = yummy







.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Copper and red go nicely imho.
> 
> Also, green + copper = yummy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Copper and green























Is a shorter loop also a colder loop?

More thermally efficient with pressure and flow?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Copper and green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is a shorter loop also a colder loop?
> 
> More thermally efficient with pressure and flow?


Not many fans of green









Not really. some say more larger loops holding more liquid (or a bigger reservoir) may have a slight advantage. Honestly, its very minimal if there is one and you're better off w/ a simple plumbing of a the loop. Helps make it look cleaner too.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Hi guys, can i join your club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my build:
> EK Supremacy - Acetal
> EK FC Titan - Acetal\Nickel
> EK FC Titan BackPlate
> EK Res 150
> EK-RAM Monarch Module - Black
> EK DDC Top v1
> EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm
> Koolance PmP 400
> Alphacool Nexos 280mm
> Phobya Extreme 200
> Enzotech BCFS-ID3/8-OD5/8
> Corsair Obsidian 650D
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still work on it, wait for some details


Yes, and as a new member you are entitled to one of the following free bonus gifts.

Please choose wisely:

1)

2)

3)

4)


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not many fans of green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not really. some say more larger loops holding more liquid (or a bigger reservoir) may have a slight advantage. Honestly, its very minimal if there is one and you're better off w/ a simple plumbing of a the loop. Helps make it look cleaner too.


I'm doing all RGB in my caselabs rebuild. I'm going to take some "in honor of Wermad" photos.


----------



## wermad

ugh, I'm thinking of redoing my loop. Maybe get some bulk-head pass through's to route the tubes better. Not sure if I should try big tube again (1/2x3/4) since I had a bad and leaky experience with it recently (used Watts super stiff tube). May just get black fittings and call it a day









Seems EK fittings 10/12mm are low or not in stock in many places


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Yes, and as a new member you are entitled to one of the following free bonus gifts.
> 
> Please choose wisely:
> 
> 1)
> 
> 2)
> 
> 3)
> 
> 4)


окау, its my second post, so i chose number 2


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Hi guys, can i join your club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my build:
> EK Supremacy - Acetal
> EK FC Titan - Acetal\Nickel
> EK FC Titan BackPlate
> EK Res 150
> EK-RAM Monarch Module - Black
> EK DDC Top v1
> EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm
> Koolance PmP 400
> Alphacool Nexos 280mm
> Phobya Extreme 200
> Enzotech BCFS-ID3/8-OD5/8
> Corsair Obsidian 650D
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still work on it, wait for some details


Sweet build.


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Sweet build.


Thx


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Some EK pics:


----------



## wermad

Always loved your rig dude









Is that Advance Primochill?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Thanks wemad.









I think it's Feser Tube UV Black. Can't remember off hand.


----------



## hotrod717

I have a Dual D5- 2 Loop Top and for the life of me can't figure out what is 100% compatible. Is the multi-option link 40mm threaded on one side and 50mm threaded on the other? Seems like this top can only be used with eol products?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> окау, its my second post, so i chose number 2


#2 will sell at an inflated value on eBay









Welcome to the EK forum.









...


----------



## AcidShAwk

Can I join the Polished CSQ Master Race ?


----------



## niklot1981

__
https://flic.kr/p/13823434513


__
https://flic.kr/p/13823755314


__
https://flic.kr/p/13825648693


__
https://flic.kr/p/13825969634


----------



## VSG

Did Malik change his OCN account or something?









Great shots!


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niklot1981*
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/13823434513


i have the same block, just with acrylic


----------



## kcuestag

Anyone here with a Phanteks Enthoo Prime case and a EK D5 X-RES 140 CSQ - Acetal Pump/res combo? What's the best place to install it? I'm considering selling the Switch 810 and going for that case.


----------



## MeanBruce

So EK fluid alone is more than adequate for a four month maintenance schedule? NO silver bullet or coil is needed in addition?

Also my tubes are solid, my loop is solid so was thinking of using EK red solution since it is easier to visualize a leak or work with the fluid itself to look down into a deep radiator and see the level of the fluid, was also considering a UV yellow or green for the same reason.

Would much rather stick with EK clear if the thermal or anti-growth properties are enhanced without the dye, but then checking the fluid level in a dark area may prove more difficult.

If its all about the same, I'll go with the brightest color I can so its easier to work with while filling bleeding refilling etc.

Thank you.

Bruce


----------



## WiSK

No silver needed.

I would just used distilled to leak test. Leak testing with a coloured fluid means, if there is a leak, then it could stain your fittings, tubing or PC components.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> So EK fluid alone is more than adequate for a four month maintenance schedule? NO silver bullet or coil is needed in addition?
> 
> Also my tubes are solid, my loop is solid so was thinking of using EK red solution since it is easier to visualize a leak or work with the fluid itself to look down into a deep radiator and see the level of the fluid, was also considering a UV yellow or green for the same reason.
> 
> Would much rather stick with EK clear if the thermal or anti-growth properties are enhanced without the dye, but then checking the fluid level in a dark area may prove more difficult.
> 
> If its all about the same, I'll go with the brightest color I can so its easier to work with while filling bleeding refilling etc.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Bruce


As I said in the other thread, I'll say here for others to see as well, yes you'll be fine with just our EK-Ekoolant.


----------



## wermad

I'm running naked distilled water. Changing my loop tube and layout soon, so I'll have some time to inspect the blocks. Cpu, mb, and ram blocks are all new and the four gpu blocks are preowned.


----------



## hotrod717

Looks like the 290X Lightning block has finally arrived at retailers. I am disappointed to say it's going for $157.99.








To be fair there is another cooling lane and custom to be sure, but ouch!


----------



## VSG

That looks great, albeit overpriced! Too bad the KPE doesn't have a similar unit, given that they likely will have sold a bunch of those too.


----------



## wermad

Special edition blocks have been a tad pricier then mainstream cards. Also, the r&d expense has to be spread over a lower volume of cards and another reason why unit costs goes up.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That looks great, albeit overpriced! Too bad the KPE doesn't have a similar unit, given that they likely will have sold a bunch of those too.


Yeah, looks like they're trying to provide cooling for the same area that has been troublesome to KPE. Not sure what the specific chips are that its cooling though. Voltage controllers? I will likely buy one regardless of cost. Much.easier and better aesthetics than a universal and passive heatsinks imo. Hopefully its cooling matches the price.


----------



## VSG

I see the Bitspower blocks have been out for a while and they are even more expensive


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I see the Bitspower blocks have been out for a while and they are even more expensive


they're usually expensive


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Some EK pics


What screws did you use to have the stock KPE backplate work with the Classy block?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> they're usually expensive


And usually don't perform as well surprisingly (or not surprisingly).


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Looks like the 290X Lightning block has finally arrived at retailers. I am disappointed to say it's going for $157.99.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To be fair there is another cooling lane and custom to be sure, but ouch!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks amazing! It even extends to actively cool the Memory VRMs!!! Expensive but 100% worth it if you are a lightning owner.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> And usually don't perform as well surprisingly (or not surprisingly).


They tend to perform average. I think the extra cost goes into the materials, accessories (like the GTX 680 block), and the BP name/brand.

Couple of years ago I tossed around the idea of getting quad GTX 580 Lightings Extreme. Damn BP blocks were close to ~$200 each directly from them in Taiwan







.


----------



## derickwm

You guys realize it's also higher priced because it's a gigantic block for a gigantic pcb?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You guys realize it's also higher priced because it's a gigantic block for a gigantic pcb?


mhm. That thing also has much more technical machining than the typical reference block.


----------



## derickwm




----------



## King4x4

Just waiting for a 290x with multi DPs... need multi-dps!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Just waiting for a 290x with multi DPs... need multi-dps!


Probably not gonna happen till the next gen. Might see dp 1.3 and hdmi 2.0 finally, ? 295x2 is and maybe the only option for displayport users. I expect two 295x2 in your rig soon sir


----------



## King4x4

Not if they can go quadfire with two 290x!









Then only one 295x2 might suffice... but personnly I am pretty happy with my current setup... Will wait for next gen!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Not if they can go quadfire with two 290x!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then only one 295x2 might suffice... but personnly I am pretty happy with my current setup... Will wait for next gen!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Not if they can go quadfire with two 290x!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then only one 295x2 might suffice... but personnly I am pretty happy with my current setup... Will wait for next gen!


Ocn ocd says two 295x2 is in order


----------



## ozzy1925

which block looks better on a 290?


----------



## wermad

Clean Plexi


----------



## skupples

The only good CSQ is a polished CSQ. I'm quite fond of Short boys, and i'm quite fond of Black Acetal. Hrmm... Short boy black Acetal... oh wait that wasn't an option.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Clean Plexi


i also want a plexi but it doesnt cover the whole pcb










you think it still looks better than this?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The only good CSQ is a polished CSQ. I'm quite fond of Short boys, and i'm quite fond of Black Acetal. Hrmm... Short boy black Acetal... oh wait that wasn't an option.


yea these csq looks bad without polishing but it ruins warranty .Why doesnt ek do full cover clean plexi for 290s?


----------



## VSG

I am with you- I went with the full acetal/copper versions when I had the 290x cards. But to each their own, so asking this in a forum never gets you what you want


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am with you- I went with the full acetal/copper versions when I had the 290x cards. But to each their own, so asking this in a forum never gets you what you want


i will buy 3 blocks and dont want to get upset after
btw look at this beauty


i think i will choose the plexi version but still have some time to think


----------



## wermad

Less weight, makes it faster in FS
















Ltg blocks are pigs


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> which block looks better on a 290?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Clean Plexi


Enough said!









Clean plexi all the way, even if it doesn't cover the whole PCB, it still looks better to me than the CSQ or the black ones.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You guys realize it's also higher priced because it's a gigantic block for a gigantic pcb?


Exactly!









This is why my GTX 690 block cost me around 150$ and the average 6-series blocks was about 20~35$ cheaper


----------



## lowfat

Damn EK, the new universal block is sexy. Is there a price for it yet?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Damn EK, the new universal block is sexy. Is there a price for it yet?


I did not know they were re-doing the universal. Where did you find it?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I did not know they were re-doing the universal. Where did you find it?


It is on their Facebook page. Haven't figured out how to link it.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It is on their Facebook page. Haven't figured out how to link it.


Printscreen and upload as image


----------



## wermad

Noyce:


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Noyce:


Thanks, I dont have a facebook account, so I would have never known.









Edit to add:

Pretty slick. much approval.


----------



## Pheozero

Wow, those are actually really nice.


----------



## wermad

Got a thread up in the news to further discuss









http://www.overclock.net/t/1482619/fb-new-ek-universal-gpu-block-ek-thermosphere


----------



## szeged

nice job on those EK! if the price is right i might pick up a couple for future gpus that take a while to get custom blocks for (im looking at you 780 classy block)


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Thanks, I dont have a facebook account, so I would have never known.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit to add:
> 
> Pretty slick. much approval.


It is 2014, get your priorities in order.


----------



## wermad

I don't has a MySpace no more. I is out of the times toos


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It is 2014, get your priorities in order.


Sorry I will re-prioritize, here is a quick list of things to be reorganized in no particular order:

1.selfies
2.what everybody had for lunch
3.the craptastic music selection
4.selfies
5.140 char (or less) answer to the worlds economic, political, and hunger problems
6. duck lips
7.kids performing mediocre at kid stuff and bragging
7.my 109380987340598475 pictures from my trip to the worlds largest rubber band ball
8.that witty bumper sticker I saw
9.selfies
10.selfies
11.selfies

But seriously, NO THANKS, I would rather have a bad case of the gonorrhea than get on facebook.


----------



## derickwm

Haha! But selfies make the world go 'round... Without them Mr. Z might not be able to feed himself 

But really, I understand. At this point, facebook is mostly just around for business stuff. When you know people all around the world, and actually have to talk to them on a consistent basis, it helps as a central point since some are bound to not have things like skype or whatever else


----------



## skupples

-facebookless since 1999.... oh wait, i meant to say 2005. I removed my account. once the College email only rules were removed


----------



## derickwm

Well aren't we the coolest kid on the block


----------



## szeged

i never made a FB acc after i realized it took more than 3 seconds to create.


----------



## VSG

You also don't need an FB account to view public data on there.. cough *incognito mode stalking* cough


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Well aren't we the coolest kid on the block
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


something something something. Drank my coffee before it was cool... something something something, burned my tongue.


----------



## hotrod717

I broke down and got the Lightning block. The fact that they took the time to acknowledge extra cooling was needed for the the mem volt regulator and the extra design and manufacturing steps, makes the price worthwhile. Should be posting pics this weekend.


----------



## Michalius

Derick, I ordered the 780 Classy block and backplate for my KPE, but I might want to keep the stock backplate once I get it all mocked up. Do you by chance know the length of the M3 screws I would need? I had a pal tell me 2mm longer than the ones supplied, which would be M3x8, yes?

Also, my Matrix 7970 and block are going to be retired. I think you need to do 5-way Crossfire.


----------



## VSG

You need 5 M3x6 screws like these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_236&products_id=30657


----------



## Ovrclck

M3x8 works also but you would need a washer.

Sent from Note 3


----------



## gatesmarch

Just bought and installed these, and I also have a question.



I've only been able to install the pump and radiator because the waterblock was out of stock, which was fine because my biggest concern was the connections to the radiator; and those won't have to be touched at all in the future. My problem is the anti vortex foam keeps getting blown out of it's seating from the force of the intake. It's never really in there tight and I have to hold it with a pencil when I start the pump up because it keeps trying to float to the top. Anyway I'm wondering if it's getting blown out because there's no waterblock in the line yet and that would add some restriction to flow, reducing the velocity at the reservoir intake?


----------



## skupples

Does the pump not have a variable speed? Even a watervlock won't add enough restriction to reduce the vortexing @100% i would fill the res up 99% if you can't turn the speed down.


----------



## gatesmarch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Does the pump not have a variable speed? Even a watervlock won't add enough restriction to reduce the vortexing @100% i would fill the res up 99% if you can't turn the speed down.


No it's not variable speed. It pumps REALLY fast, up to 211 gph (800 lph). I didn't want to have to purchase a pump controller, if had known it might be necessary I would've gone with a different pump. Anyway I submitted a ticket and they've never heard of this issue so they want me to submit a video. I do have the res filled almost to the top. It's so frustrating I've been playing with a pencil putting the foam down then having it pop up for over 45 minutes.


----------



## akira749

You could also remove the foam....it won't make that much difference


----------



## derickwm

The setup will be fine once you have more than just a single radiator in the loop


----------



## gatesmarch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The setup will be fine once you have more than just a single radiator in the loop


I had to do some serious case modding to get this one to fit. Cut out the top of the case and mounted the radiator on top with the fans under it because both wouldn't fit inside. Then removed the hdd cage to mount the pump. The problem is, without the foam the microbubbles won't go away because it's such a strong vortex, the water looks like milk. Air in the water=crappy cooling.




Here's a link to the vortex foam issue. Don't mind the pink pencil...I have two daughters.


----------



## BradleyW

Where can I buy more Hex headed screws for my Ek R9 290X waterblock?
Thank you.


----------



## derickwm

You've got the foam in there nice and snug?
Here's mine:


If you're still experiencing issues once you have a waterblock installed let me know. You can also use a voltage adapter like this:








I have a very similar one and it works like a charm when I need it









FrozenCPU has tons of screw replacements in their shop, Bradley.


----------



## gatesmarch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You've got the foam in there nice and snug?
> Here's mine:
> 
> 
> If you're still experiencing issues once you have a waterblock installed let me know. You can also use a voltage adapter like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a very similar one and it works like a charm when I need it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FrozenCPU has tons of screw replacements in their shop, Bradley.


See, you say nice and snug...but it's not snug at all. (I don't know if you watched the video I linked) There's not much resistance putting it in the seat and I think that's the problem. Which doesn't seem to make sense, I'm sure all the foam pieces are stamped out at the same size. Maybe I got an oddball or something. The only foam I can find that is the same type is $13.00 for a sheet on Amazon...screw that lol.


----------



## derickwm

Did you cut the piece of foam and fit into the spot per instructions...


----------



## gatesmarch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Did you cut the piece of foam and fit into the spot per instructions...


It was pre-cut, and there wasn't any additional material I could make my own with.


----------



## holeyguy

sorry for the 2 forms i made a goof on the number of ek blocks i am using.


----------



## PCModderMike

lowfat posts so many polished blocks in here, I'm almost afraid to share.








But yea, I'm still rocking frosted CSQ *dawns flame ******ant suit*


__
https://flic.kr/p/13907401875


__
https://flic.kr/p/13907814064


__
https://flic.kr/p/13907812644


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You could also remove the foam....it won't make that much difference


the foam is actually really important. I have a small res like that on my mcp35x and without the foam there is like a whirlpool that gets big enough that the middle part of it allows air to be sucked into the pump, the foam fixes that. I couldn't find mine last night and it's a real pain. I can just turn the pump speed down but it's always full speed when starting up.

My foam though is really tight to push down and never moves. You need a bigger piece of foam.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> lowfat posts so many polished blocks in here, I'm almost afraid to share.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yea, I'm still rocking frosted CSQ *dawns flame ******ant suit*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/13907401875
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/13907814064
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/13907812644


Sweet 690!!


----------



## lowfat

I i wish the 780 had a CSQ backplate available. I think they look awesome.

As for frosted blocks, I still think they look good. I just prefer polished slightly more.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> lowfat posts so many polished blocks in here, I'm almost afraid to share.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yea, I'm still rocking frosted CSQ *dawns flame ******ant suit*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/13907401875
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/13907814064
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/13907812644
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet 690!!
Click to expand...

Thanks!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I i wish the 780 had a CSQ backplate available. I think they look awesome.
> 
> As for frosted blocks, I still think they look good. I just prefer polished slightly more.


Always loved your polishing. I saw the guide you posted, very nice of you to do that.
Definitely not the 5 minute job others out there have said it was.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gatesmarch*
> 
> No it's not variable speed. It pumps REALLY fast, up to 211 gph (800 lph). I didn't want to have to purchase a pump controller, if had known it might be necessary I would've gone with a different pump. Anyway I submitted a ticket and they've never heard of this issue so they want me to submit a video. I do have the res filled almost to the top. It's so frustrating I've been playing with a pencil putting the foam down then having it pop up for over 45 minutes.


Uh, I believe the foam is supposed to be on the INTAKE port area, isn't it? I know that's where it said to put it for my top.


----------



## wermad

^^^sounds correct as the suction will keep it in place. Where's as the reservoir's intake, could push it out of place.


----------



## Jimhans1

But, I just looked up the manual for that DCP style pump/top thingy, and sure enough, it says to use it in the res intake area and not the pump intake, that's a first for me. Maybe try it at the pump area anyways???


----------



## wermad

Maybe the pump inlet is too wide and will swallow the foam? Don't know tbh. I know the Swiftech 35X pump res has the foam piece above the inlet to the pump.


----------



## Buehlar

Hey guys. I just finished polishing my CSQ Universal GPU Surpremacy Bridge Edition blocks and noticed a stress fracture around the threads for the bridge.

It's approx 10mm in circumference and was only visible after I polished the frosting off of them. I don't know how long it's been this way but they're only a year old and this is the first time I've broke down the loop since I finished the build.
I'm really afraid to use the block in this shape as it give could away at any moment and well...Niagara Falls









Has anyone else had any issues with these? Should I RMA the block?

I really only need to replace the acrylic, the nickle plates are still in like new condition.

See pictures, the one on the right has the fracture.


Picture of a the "non fractured" block


Fractured block


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Hey guys. I just finished polishing my CSQ Universal GPU Surpremacy Bridge Edition blocks and noticed a stress fracture around the threads for the bridge.
> 
> It's approx 10mm in circumference and was only visible after I polished the frosting off of them. I don't know how long it's been this way but they're only a year old and this is the first time I've broke down the loop since I finished the build.
> I'm really afraid to use the block in this shape as it give could away at any moment and well...Niagara Falls
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had any issues with these? Should I RMA the block?
> 
> I really only need to replace the acrylic, the nickle plates are still in like new condition.
> 
> See pictures, the one on the right has the fracture.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Picture of a the "non fractured" block
> 
> 
> Fractured block


afaik polishing plexi voids warranty


----------



## wermad

You'll be fine since there's plenty of thread on there. Have you installed the bridge? might have been due to over-torquing, ?

btw, if you thread the screw all the way through, it helps minimize the fracturing by acting as a joiner. Just don't over tighten too much.


----------



## derickwm

^what these two said


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> afaik polishing plexi voids warranty


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You'll be fine since there's plenty of thread on there. Have you installed the bridge? might have been due to over-torquing, ?
> 
> btw, if you thread the screw all the way through, it helps minimize the fracturing by acting as a joiner. Just don't over tighten too much.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> ^what there two said


Yea the threads are still good so it should pull down hold. I may have over tightened it initially.
I'll just go easy and keep a eye on it now that it's easily visible.

Thanks guys...+rep


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Yea the threads are still good so it should pull down hold. I may have over tightened it initially.
> I'll just go easy and keep a eye on it now that it's easily visible.
> 
> Thanks guys...+rep


Personally I would replace it, otherwise by the time the loop is filled and you're using it every day it's all you'll think about and it will drive you nuts. You'll keep checking like a madman to see if it's worsening or not...


----------



## wermad

This happens a lot on the Clean plexi gpu blocks. I had no issues with my three 780s and I got to chat about these blocks w/ JamesW and he warned me not to over tighten them. New owner of my old 780s accidentally cracked them.

I just gingerly turn the screws but don't apply too much force. as long as o-rings compresses a bit, its good. You can always leak test without powering on your entire system. Any leaks can be caught in time andt can minimize any damage by not having the components powered on.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Personally I would replace it, otherwise by the time the loop is filled and you're using it every day it's all you'll think about and it will drive you nuts. You'll keep checking like a madman to see if it's worsening or not...


Well I'd hate to the spend $ on new one be cause I won't be using these GPU's for very much longer, just to get the new build up and running. I've already been stalking the 290x prices for a while, just been waiting on this Bitcoin craze to finally go belly up








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This happens a lot on the Clean plexi gpu blocks. I had no issues with my three 780s and I got to chat about these blocks w/ JamesW and he warned me not to over tighten them. New owner of my old 780s accidentally cracked them.
> 
> I just gingerly turn the screws but don't apply too much force. as long as o-rings compresses a bit, its good. You can always leak test without powering on your entire system. Any leaks can be caught in time andt can minimize any damage by not having the components powered on.


That's exactly how I leak tested when I put the build together a year ago. Had a few drips and tightened up the bridge until it stopped leaking. Just a bit too much I guess. My luck


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This happens a lot on the Clean plexi gpu blocks. I had no issues with my three 780s and I got to chat about these blocks w/ JamesW and he warned me not to over tighten them. New owner of my old 780s accidentally cracked them.
> 
> I just gingerly turn the screws but don't apply too much force. as long as o-rings compresses a bit, its good. You can always leak test without powering on your entire system. Any leaks can be caught in time andt can minimize any damage by not having the components powered on.


I broke not one but *2* GTX770 Plexi block when I wanted to install my EK-FC Terminal!!!!!! I was mad on the first one....I'll let you imagine my mental state when I cracked the second one!!!!!!









"be gentle" is my motto since then


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I broke not one but *2* GTX770 Plexi block when I wanted to install my EK-FC Terminal!!!!!! I was mad on the first one....I'll let you imagine my mental state when I cracked the second one!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "be gentle" is my motto since then


I was lucky I chatted w/ James about the plexi Titan blocks to avoid this. Otherwise, I would have probably cracked at least one. Quite a few ppl have cracked theirs, so it ain't so uncommon. Maybe we got conditioned w/ CSQ which only uses one screw for two o-rings. Not realizing Clean uses three screws so force really isn't necessary.

Good thing is that ek was/is replacing them under warranty.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Good thing is that ek was/is replacing them under warranty.


What?? Seriously??


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> What?? Seriously??


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> What?? Seriously??
Click to expand...

I still have them both!!!

How long is the warranty on the blocks?


----------



## derickwm

2 years, assuming you're the original purchaser from an official reseller.


----------



## Nichismo

my new favorite pics of my rig









Thanks EK


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 2 years, assuming you're the original purchaser from an official reseller.


Ok, so what are my steps?

Do I issue an RMA?

I'm still surprised that EK will replace my blocks because I overtight screws when installing an EK-FC Terminal Bridge....

I mean it's not EK's fault if I was too dumb and to careful enough


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 2 years, assuming you're the original purchaser from an official reseller.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, so what are my steps?
> 
> Do I issue an RMA?
> 
> I'm still surprised that EK will replace my blocks because I overtight screws when installing an EK-FC Terminal Bridge....
> 
> I mean it's not EK's fault if I was too dumb and to careful enough
Click to expand...

lol uh well I'm not really guaranteeing you RMA, simply stating information, but you can start the RMA process at ekwb.com/support.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> lol uh well I'm not really _guaranteeing _you RMA, simply stating information, but you can start the RMA process at ekwb.com/support.












Thanks









Anyway I have nothing to lose


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> lol uh well I'm not really _guaranteeing _you RMA, simply stating information, but you can start the RMA process at ekwb.com/support.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway I have nothing to lose
Click to expand...

Oh and by the way I bought them directly from EK so I think it's official enough as a retailer


----------



## VSG

I have it on good authority that buying anything from Derick automatically voids all warranty.


----------



## derickwm

It's safe to assume that if you're buying stuff from me, the warranty is long gone.









Jk wermad.....


----------



## VSG

Like Wermad would care, he will end up redoing his loop now and then realize his coolant doesn't match up to that exact shade of green anymore and soon.. another TX-10 build!


----------



## gatesmarch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> But, I just looked up the manual for that DCP style pump/top thingy, and sure enough, it says to use it in the res intake area and not the pump intake, that's a first for me. Maybe try it at the pump area anyways???


Yes you're right, the instructions are quite simple and clear as to where it goes. The intake cavity is sized much smaller than where the foam is seated for that purpose. Not only that but if you put it anywhere near the intake, the intake pulls it in really tight and the pump starts to whine...like when a vacuum gets clogged. Anyway I've been going back in forth with rep for 3 days now. He had me send a video, copy of my invoice, photos, and everything else under the sun. His conclusion with the research department is that "once a waterblock is installed, it will restrict the flow enough to prevent this from happening. If it occurs after installing the block, we will issue you a new piece of foam." REALLY?! The waterblock is not going to solve the problem. Even a noticeable reduction in flow rate won't stop this from blasting the foam out of it's spot. The foam is too damn small, others have this pump and have stated it is supposed to be really tight...mine is not. How much could it possibly set them back to issue a new piece of foam?! I'd hate to deal with EK over a more expensive item.


----------



## derickwm

It costs a lot when you have to ship said piece of foam to the USA from Slovenia. Unless you want to wait 6 weeks, judging from this scene though, I doubt you do.

In all seriousness, nobody runs a loop with just a pump and a radiator. Take more photos if you want help and as we both have told you now, we will help you further if you continue to experience the problem once you have an actual loop with water block(s).

As of right now it's hard to even be serious about this without a water block in the mix. Especially over a bit of foam... I have the exact same pump/res setup; I cut my foam to size, put it in the intake slot, and haven't had a second thought about it.


----------



## gatesmarch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It costs a lot when you have to ship said piece of foam to the USA from Slovenia. Unless you want to wait 6 weeks, judging from this scene though, I doubt you do.
> 
> In all seriousness, nobody runs a loop with just a pump and a radiator. Take more photos if you want help and as we both have told you now, we will help you further if you continue to experience the problem once you have an actual loop with water block(s).
> 
> As of right now it's hard to even be serious about this without a water block in the mix. Especially over a bit of foam... I have the exact same pump/res setup; I cut my foam to size, put it in the intake slot, and haven't had a second thought about it.


Where did you get the foam? I'll buy a sheet if I have to I've been checking a few industrial and specialty sites. LIke I said, my piece was precut to the semicircle so there's nothing I could do. I just want to make sure it's the right type of foam allowing enough flow.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gatesmarch*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you're right, the instructions are quite simple and clear as to where it goes. The intake cavity is sized much smaller than where the foam is seated for that purpose. Not only that but if you put it anywhere near the intake, the intake pulls it in really tight and the pump starts to whine...like when a vacuum gets clogged. Anyway I've been going back in forth with rep for 3 days now. He had me send a video, copy of my invoice, photos, and everything else under the sun. His conclusion with the research department is that "once a waterblock is installed, it will restrict the flow enough to prevent this from happening. If it occurs after installing the block, we will issue you a new piece of foam." REALLY?! The waterblock is not going to solve the problem. Even a noticeable reduction in flow rate won't stop this from blasting the foam out of it's spot. The foam is too damn small, others have this pump and have stated it is supposed to be really tight...mine is not. How much could it possibly set them back to issue a new piece of foam?! I'd hate to deal with EK over a more expensive item.


You should be able to find that type of foam @ any local aquatics/fishtank/petsmart/petsupermarket & maybe even home depot type store.

It's just generic pump foam if its the same stuff that came with my Swiftech Maelstrom reservoir.


----------



## gatesmarch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> You should be able to find that type of foam @ any local aquatics/fishtank/petsmart/petsupermarket & maybe even home depot type store.
> 
> It's just generic pump foam if its the same stuff that came with my Swiftech Maelstrom reservoir.


Cool, thanks.


----------



## skupples

Here, $8


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's safe to assume that if you're buying stuff from me, the warranty is long gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jk wermad.....










stunned ninja, is stunned! RIVE has been rock solid. Its had plenty of time to mature (bios) so I really have no need to change it. Cpu was sold long ago since I have no need for a hexacore. Extra cash bought me the RIVE block and 15 more 140mm cougars. IBE is very stable and haven't had issues at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Like Wermad would care, he will end up redoing his loop now and then realize his coolant doesn't match up to that exact shade of green anymore and soon.. another TX-10 build!


Running plain ol' distilled, especially with EK plated blocks. Not doing dyes since I have the lovely FrozenQ X4 res.

Only changing the fittings (black nickel is ok but this was just temporary) and i was lucky to score the monsoons off jab-tech for 50% off. Otherwise, it would have stayed the same. Monsoons are green and I have some black Primochill pending shipping (slow arse amazon







).


----------



## hotrod717

This thing is massive. Barely fit inside the box.


----------



## derickwm

And those are the bigger boxes we recently had to get for all the non ref blocks


----------



## Ragsters

What size leds are needed for the EK CSQ DDC pump top?


----------



## King4x4

Is it normal that you start browsing EK webstore for gear to fit a HTPC as soon as you open that HTPCs box?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> What size leds are needed for the EK CSQ DDC pump top?


5mm


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 5mm


Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Is it normal that you start browsing EK webstore for gear to fit a HTPC as soon as you open that HTPCs box?


Sweet, 290x going in there? (after you get the two 295x2).


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Can I join?

http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/ian1alcorn/media/WP_20140412_006_zpsbe01f898.jpg.html

http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/ian1alcorn/media/Untitled_zps2a7285a6.jpg.html


----------



## lowfat

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-69.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-68.jpg.html


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Nice pics lowfat!

Macro?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Nice pics lowfat!
> 
> Macro?


Yes. Using a $15 extension tube from eBay on a 17-40 f4 L lens.


----------



## Jflisk

Not sure If my name was ever added but I would like to join look at my avatar 2XR9 290X blocks and bridge. Thanks


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-69.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-68.jpg.html


Here's a sibling shot:



I should have used my macro flash but got too lazy when I was doing this


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

And another EK button shot...



Old TITAN block that's not being used.


----------



## VSG

EK Button thread time!


----------



## derickwm

Here's one I took last summer:


----------



## lowfat

That watermark is using the Farscape logo font.


----------



## skupples

@Lowfat Which product does that rubberized looking badge come with?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @Lowfat Which product does that rubberized looking badge come with?


I just PlastiDipped one of the regular silver badges.


----------



## hotrod717

Finally got my Lightning block and factory backplate installed. Some light modding was needed, but turned out great!


----------



## Roxycon

i want those photo skills


----------



## skupples

I wonder... Is EK aware that they are giving the wrong size Allen wrench with the DDC heatsink kits? All three of them came with 2 sizes too small wrench.









please excuse my ignorance if i'm missing the purpose of this wrench.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quick question, with the Supremacy block and supplied backplate. Is this sufficient? I noticed a tiny gap. Is this okay? Screws are nice and tight. Only reason I ask is because of the mosfet block debacle a few weeks ago. Massive anxiety lol


----------



## skupples

Looks fine! Not much else you can do if the screws are tight. The rubber should form a nice little glove.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Looks fine! Not much else you can do if the screws are tight. The rubber should form a nice little glove.


Awesome, thanks! I can sleep tonight lol


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Any of you know what is the type of thermal pads that come with the EK gpu blocks?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Any of you know what is the type of thermal pads that come with the EK gpu blocks?


not sure of the brand, but the size is normally .5mm.


----------



## Ovrclck

I believe .5mm and 1.0mm


----------



## wermad

Check the instructions on their site for the block in question. It should say what sizes you need.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I wonder... Is EK aware that they are giving the wrong size Allen wrench with the DDC heatsink kits? All three of them came with 2 sizes too small wrench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> please excuse my ignorance if i'm missing the purpose of this wrench.


It goes through the threads on bottom of the long metal screws/posts and hooks into a hidden Allen hole to tighten the body to the pump top. You wouldn't know it unless you stuck it in there.

Hope that makes sense


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> It goes through the threads on bottom of the long metal screws/posts and hooks into a hidden Allen hole to tighten the body to the pump top. You wouldn't know it unless you stuck it in there.
> 
> Hope that makes sense


You know, I thought about that being the case but didn't try. I ended up just using my Allen driver. I screwed the screw into the post then used that to turn them in...


----------



## Jameswalt1

Those look great!


----------



## skupples

I'm kinda worried about one of the pumps. The impeller is visibly warn thin. This top may be the final straw for one of the pumps either way. I swear iv'e lost pump power over the last 2-3 months, but the two originals are functional.

Thx.

I may end up going dual pump dual loop.


----------



## lowfat

OK I swear this time I am 100% done w/ polishing these blocks.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-80.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-82.jpg.html


----------



## 218689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> OK I swear this time I am 100% done w/ polishing these blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-80.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-82.jpg.html


you missed a spot


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> OK I swear this time I am 100% done w/ polishing these blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-80.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-82.jpg.html


Those look awesome lowfat









I just finished polishing mine and I hope they look as nice as yours once installed









Darn...more fingerprints on the outside!


----------



## lowfat

From the pics it looks like you did a good job. Did you happen to read the polishing guide I posted? If you have not polished the circles I suggest doing so. They will look white otherwise. Use a broken off toothpick and a folded up polishing cloth to get inside them.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> From the pics it looks like you did a good job. Did you happen to read the polishing guide I posted? If you have not polished the circles I suggest doing so. They will look white otherwise. Use a broken off toothpick and a folded up polishing cloth to get inside them.


No, but thanks for the tip, I'll give that a try








Linky to your guide? +rep


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> No, but thanks for the tip, I'll give that a try
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Linky to your guide? +rep


http://www.overclock.net/t/1477681/polishing-acrylic-guide-tips-tricks/0_20


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1477681/polishing-acrylic-guide-tips-tricks/0_20


Thanks again...
Massive improvement to Big Lian Li and beautiful photos BTW









Edit:

Awesome guide...
This is what I used. 2000 grit, Nu Finish, a dremel w/polishing wheel and finally a cloth diaper


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> not sure of the brand, but the size is normally .5mm.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I believe .5mm and 1.0mm


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Check the instructions on their site for the block in question. It should say what sizes you need.


looking for type, not size







someone I know mentioned they may be fujipoly but I don't think they are at all, I sent derrick a PM waiting to find out


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> looking for type, not size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> someone I know mentioned they may be fujipoly but I don't think they are at all, I sent derrick a PM waiting to find out


Definitely not the top three types of fujipoly. The stats EK lists don't match up with any of the fujipoly types that I know of.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Definitely not the top three types of fujipoly. The stats EK lists don't match up with any of the fujipoly types that I know of.


Makes sense








Oh how it hurts knowing you have to spend $50 to get fujipoly ultra extreme for one block


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Makes sense
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh how it hurts knowing you have to spend $50 to get fujipoly ultra extreme for one block


I go for the one notch below. The stuff that is like $40-$50 for the entire sheet.


----------



## wermad

Using cheap stuff on ebay. never had issues







. Using on the gpu's since they came all cut up, crushed, and some in the wrong spot (







)!

Takes a bit of time for delivery but you get a large sheet ~$15.


----------



## King4x4

Never used any of the Fujibogi pads and my vrms on ALL of my cards never go over 50'C.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> looking for type, not size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> someone I know mentioned they may be fujipoly but I don't think they are at all, I sent derrick a PM waiting to find out


You can have a look here

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g57/c609/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Thermal_Pads.html


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> You can have a look here
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g57/c609/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Thermal_Pads.html


I asked here to see if anyone already looked into this. I know ek thermal pads are "ek thermal pads" but I am trying to figure out if they are some variation of fujipoly ( which they seem not to be )
all that link shows is the size of the pads which really holds no information








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Never used any of the Fujibogi pads and my vrms on ALL of my cards never go over 50'C.


I just miss everything on my old GPU never going >45C


----------



## VSG

The EK pads have an average conductivity of 3 w/mK so you can compare against the Fujipoly offerings.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The EK pads have an average conductivity of 3 w/mK so you can compare against the Fujipoly offerings.


thanks geggeg








seems I'll need more fujipoly soon


----------



## Ragsters

Anyone have trouble getting two sticks of Dominator Ram to be sturdy enough for Monarch water block or is buying four sticks just better for stability?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> thanks geggeg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> seems I'll need more fujipoly soon


Just a little help I use the EK pads on R9 290x Neither of the VRMS go above 50C while gaming. When mining for days about 55C-56C max. I didnt notice what card you have but if its a R290 series get the back plate it helps a lot.The pads are 5 w/Mk so there is room for improvement there aka Fujipoly 11 w/MK at least on the VRMS the ram not really needed.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Just a little help I use the EK pads on R9 290x Neither of the VRMS go above 50C while gaming. When mining for days about 55C-56C max. I didnt notice what card you have but if its a R290 series get the back plate it helps a lot.The pads are 5 w/Mk so there is room for improvement there aka Fujipoly 11 w/MK at least on the VRMS the ram not really needed.


I enjoy the 17w/mk stuff








I haven't had a ek gpu block yet and I'm hoping I can keep the card in 40C like my other block did.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Anyone have trouble getting two sticks of Dominator Ram to be sturdy enough for Monarch water block or is buying four sticks just better for stability?


I used two X4 blocks on my last two builds over only two sticks of ram each and one X4 again on my current build over two sticks. I have noticed no issues with sturdiness, mine have been very solid.


----------



## kpoeticg

I use the x4's for 2 sticks too. I use the Monarch Heatsinks though, i'm assuming the Dominators are similar. They screw together, they're completely stable for me.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I use the x4's for 2 sticks too. I use the Monarch Heatsinks though, i'm assuming the Dominators are similar. They screw together, they're completely stable for me.


I actually didn't think of that aspect, I wonder what heatsinks @Ragsters is using.. Although you're saying your solid with Monarch heatsinks, and I'm rock solid using the stock Dominator heatsinks... So he shouldn't have issues.


----------



## kpoeticg

If i open the dimm latches, i can remove the ram by pulling on the waterblock. Obviously the ram comes out alot smoother one by one, but the assembly's that solid once the waterblocks screwed down. I could see maybe on a dual channel board without the spacing in between that the block might feel lopsided, but i don't see any reason you couldn't just position the 2 sticks in the middle of the block if that's the case.

Copper screwed into aluminum should be solid unless the threads are stripped


----------



## Georgey123

Revision of my SM8 with some new EK CSQ blocks







. Enjoy


----------



## VSG

Hey Derick, tell Sajn and Tiborr their vacation is over.



But ya, while I am in here I am glad EK continues to take care of their peeps: http://www.techpowerup.com/200108/ek-launches-new-revision-of-ek-fc-r9-290x-water-block.html


----------



## derickwm

y u post aqua photo in the club


----------



## VSG

lol that didn't take long! Any idea how long before the EK blocks are due? Some guys in the CS dept at my Uni got 8 295x2 cards (!!!) and I am trying to convince them to go with a custom loop instead of the stock cooler.


----------



## derickwm

Soon™


----------



## VSG

Spent a min looking for a suitable gif as a response but I do not have PCModderMike's skills clearly


----------



## derickwm




----------



## Michalius

Posted in the WC'ing club, but I got around to draining my loop and installing the block on the 780 Ti KPE:



A definite upgrade. Those VRM sinks despite looking pretty, feel cheap. I figured it would make a good dog toy, but even Daphne hates dinky air coolers.





DAT BLOCK

I love that Acetal/Nickel look on the Clean CSQ stuff. The fit, finish, machining, it all looks and feels so freaking solid.

I also need to get my photo booth setup so I can start taking proper pictures again. I can't even find my tripod.


----------



## wermad

Derick, if your engineers already have a 295X2 sample, can they check if the 7990 single slot bracket is compatible?



http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/i-o-brackets/ek-vga-i-o-bracket-hd7990-se.html


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I used two X4 blocks on my last two builds over only two sticks of ram each and one X4 again on my current build over two sticks. I have noticed no issues with sturdiness, mine have been very solid.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I use the x4's for 2 sticks too. I use the Monarch Heatsinks though, i'm assuming the Dominators are similar. They screw together, they're completely stable for me.


Thanks guys! Still not sure which one to use but I'm leaning towards the Dominators.


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Derick, if your engineers already have a 295X2 sample, can they check if the 7990 single slot bracket is compatible?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/i-o-brackets/ek-vga-i-o-bracket-hd7990-se.html


Oh lord... That will make me buy the 295x2 fast!


----------



## Kranik

So I'm kinda frustrated right now, I'm almost positive that there is something off with the MOSFET block for my RIVE Black Edition. The fitting on it is very clearly at a pretty steep downward angle, or maybe I'm going crazy. Any ideas on this? I feel like I only post when I've got problems but unfortunately not a lot has gone right with this so far.


----------



## skupples

I was able to do a straight line between all copper CPU block & Mosfet block on that board. Used 2x Alphacool rotary 90s and an alphacool rotary male/male. I did how ever have to use a stubby extender for south bridge to CPU.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Oh lord... That will make me buy *two* 295x2*'s* fast!


ftfy









Donate those 290Xs to moi


----------



## kpoeticg

This is what mine looked like.





I gotta RMA my board now tho because of 00 bootloops


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I was able to do a straight line between all copper CPU block & Mosfet block on that board. Used 2x Alphacool rotary 90s and an alphacool rotary male/male. I did how ever have to use a stubby extender for south bridge to CPU.


South Bridge to CPU took a 15mm extender, no big deal. But as the picture I included shows any extender at all will not correct the angling issue, and I certainly couldn't do what you or kpoeticg did with straight lines. It just wouldn't be possible.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> South Bridge to CPU took a 15mm extender, no big deal. But as the picture I included shows any extender at all will not correct the angling issue, and I certainly couldn't do what you or kpoeticg did with straight lines. It just wouldn't be possible.


might have to do a funny bend if you are using acrylic. looks like the threads are slightly off.


----------



## MeanBruce

Guess I'll post the same question in the cool EK club: Ordering 2 of these this morning from PPCS and just completely baffled on which color to choose.









Two of these Monsoon thermal sensors for Fluid-In and Fluid-Out on the 360 rad, just not certain whether to go matte black or red. My rig is mostly black with red accents here and there.

Thermal information on the RX360 v3 sent to the Aquaero 6 should be interesting to dial in the maximum radiator Delta T with fan and pump rpms.

Thanks guys...

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/MON-TPL-RD_01_zpsf2f5612b.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7032_zpsa7b4c9d7.jpg.html

This little guy's gonna be fast asleep in about 5minutes.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7031_zpsb1a05579.jpg.html


----------



## VSG

Red or plain black will work just fine there. I see the dog has recovered from the sting


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Red or plain black will work just fine there. I see the dog has recovered from the sting


Thanks, just placed my final order at Performance PCs. Went with the red Monsoon probes and clear EK fluid and the Bitspower Ultra-Black sleeving for two Sanyo fans.

Woohoo, finally ready to build this custom AIO...

will do a dry-fit cut the 3 lengths of tubing, guess I should leave some slack, then flush the rad, assemble and fill this bad boy.









I'll leak test on the desk plugged into an external PSU, the Aquaero 6 and pump to mobo via usb.

Probably forgotten a million things.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Spent a min looking for a suitable gif as a response but I do not have PCModderMike's skills clearly



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*




I've always loved dual GPU blocks.







Can't wait to get coolant flowing through there.

__
https://flic.kr/p/13967232326


----------



## wermad

Tempted to go sff w/ two 295x2







. Gotta restrain and keep looking at my giant STH10 loaded with lots of fans









FT03, matx x79, quad 295x2, so tempting, so small and powerful, must resist


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tempted to go sff w/ two 295x2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Gotta restrain and keep looking at my giant STH10 loaded with lots of fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FT03, matx x79, quad 295x2, so tempting, so small and powerful, must resist


Yes, resist.







lol
Speaking as someone who's been down that route...dropping my big 'ol water cooled setup and trying to go SFF (actually buying an FT03)...all I can say is it just didn't work out and didn't last long at all before I was buying all new gear and cases to support it.
Now my FT03 just serves as a NAS and HTPC.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





__
https://flic.kr/p/9753308805


----------



## wermad

Sweet


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> might have to do a funny bend if you are using acrylic. looks like the threads are slightly off.


In person it looks less like a threading issue and more like the whole block sits forward. Any ideas on a way to level it out?

You've always been super helpful skupples and I appreciate it!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> In person it looks less like a threading issue and more like the whole block sits forward. Any ideas on a way to level it out?
> 
> You've always been super helpful skupples and I appreciate it!


If you could physically identify where where the abnormality is you could sand/plane it down.


----------



## cpachris




----------



## Jameswalt1

Awesome


----------



## PCModderMike

Yummy


----------



## VSG

Amazing!


----------



## DanielCoffey

I have a question about the EK-D5 Dual TOP and would appreciate opinions on which of the two outlets to use in the following situation...

If I use the side OUT port, I will probably have to use a right-angle fitting on it but if I use the top OUT 2 port, I won't. Cost aside, what are the pros and cons of using OUT with 90-deg vs OUT 2 with straight connector?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> I have a question about the EK-D5 Dual TOP and would appreciate opinions on which of the two outlets to use in the following situation...
> 
> If I use the side OUT port, I will probably have to use a right-angle fitting on it but if I use the top OUT 2 port, I won't. Cost aside, what are the pros and cons of using OUT with 90-deg vs OUT 2 with straight connector?


In real world performance there is zero difference. Use whichever one will make the tubing run look best.


----------



## DanielCoffey

Super - I hoped that would be the case.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> Super - I hoped that would be the case.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Derick, if your engineers already have a 295X2 sample, can they check if the 7990 single slot bracket is compatible?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/i-o-brackets/ek-vga-i-o-bracket-hd7990-se.html


No Derick


----------



## iamkraine

Whats the point of getting 295x2 if its more expensive than two 290x? Is there an advantage? Unless of course you only have one slot.


----------



## Avonosac

Why am I so thirsty?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Derick, if your engineers already have a 295X2 sample, can they check if the 7990 single slot bracket is compatible?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/i-o-brackets/ek-vga-i-o-bracket-hd7990-se.html
> 
> 
> 
> No Derick
Click to expand...

Where is our @derickwm??


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Where is our @derickwm??


Good question I need a little help from derick.









More great gear from my friendly little neighborhood computer water cooling store, Monsoon thermal probes and EK clear Ekoolant.

Probes feed into the Aquaero 6. Fluid IN Fluid Out radiator Delta T.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7054_zpsa25d283b.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7049_zpse48d0a10.jpg.html


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Whats the point of getting 295x2 if its more expensive than two 290x? Is there an advantage? Unless of course you only have one slot.


4X Mini display ports







.

edit: I'm going to wait a bit. Allow some time for drivers to mature and for amd depreciation (hopefully no more mining or such crazes interfere) to take effect. I'll grab two then for my 5x1 Delll eyefinity setup


----------



## MeanBruce

Is the date stamped on EK EKoolant the expiration date or the date of manufacture?

I'm a W/C noobie, help me out here.









.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 4X Mini display ports
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> edit: I'm going to wait a bit. Allow some time for drivers to mature and for amd depreciation (hopefully no more mining or such crazes interfere) to take effect. I'll grab two then for my 5x1 Delll eyefinity setup


^^ This, though really they could have put the 5th on there too.

If only the 290x lightning had changed up the ports, can't believe none of the single gpu 290 cards had the right outputs.

Anyway Derick is travelling so you may have to be patient unless tiborrrrrrrrr stops through to answer for him









Also bruce what is dat keyboard???


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Where is our @derickwm??


He's selling his body on the street for extra money to buy some 295x2's


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> He's selling his body on the street for extra money to buy some 295x2's


I tried that, they wanted to pay me in cupcakes.


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> ^^ This, though really they could have put the 5th on there too.
> 
> If only the 290x lightning had changed up the ports, can't believe none of the single gpu 290 cards had the right outputs.
> 
> Anyway Derick is travelling so you may have to be patient unless tiborrrrrrrrr stops through to answer for him
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also bruce what is dat keyboard???


I am waiting for a 290x with multiports.... will swap my main card for those juicy 4xMini DPs so fast!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> ^^ This, though really they could have put the 5th on there too.
> 
> If only the 290x lightning had changed up the ports, can't believe none of the single gpu 290 cards had the right outputs.
> 
> Anyway Derick is travelling so you may have to be patient unless tiborrrrrrrrr stops through to answer for him
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also bruce what is dat keyboard???


Going back to Slovenia? Isn't there a metal fest going on? I can only imaging Derick w/ Viking horns, chain male, and his CL case sitting on the window seat on flight to Eastern Europe. Power Metal blasting on his head phones







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> He's selling his body on the street for extra money to buy some 295x2's











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I tried that, they wanted to pay me in cupcakes.


lmao








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> I am waiting for a 290x with multiports.... will swap my main card for those juicy 4xMini DPs so fast!


Meh, I don't think no one might do this. Everyone still on the single screen 4k bandwagon to care for eyefinity. At least the 295x2 has put some emphasis back on there.

edit: quad Ti are tempting if the 6gb are launched and 4k ips drops. Missed the sale on the ~$699 USD dell 4k ips 24".


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Also bruce what is dat keyboard???


It's one of dees, superstren.









PFU Happy Hacking Pro 2

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6621_zpsf25aef5c.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4991_zps8d553cdc.jpg.html


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Going back to Slovenia? Isn't there a metal fest going on? I can only imaging Derick w/ Viking horns, chain male, and his CL case sitting on the window seat on flight to Eastern Europe. Power Metal blasting on his head phones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lmao
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Meh, I don't think no one might do this. Everyone still on the single screen 4k bandwagon to care for eyefinity. At least the 295x2 has put some emphasis back on there.


yeah even the matrix had crappy outputs this time. Maybe the Ares will have the correct 6mdp or 5mdp +dvi options if it ever happens and if it isn't crazy expensive.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> It's one of dees, superstren.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PFU Happy Hacking Pro 2


Nice do want!


----------



## wermad

I think Amd back-peddled a bit due to the tearing issues. They fixed it but at the same time they probably forced the aic to run this config to avoid more issues.

Its gonna be hard for me to let go of these Lightnings with four dp unless they're replaced with something worthy. Right now, its the 295x2 on my radar







.

Anyone using ek black compression fittings? How's the paint quality?


----------



## lowfat

I could never use an HHKB, I need all my modifier keys. Realforce is where it is at.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-100.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-93.jpg.html


----------



## MeanBruce

RealForce keyboards with Topre 30g, 45g and 50g variable weighted switches, also beyond awesome, rep ++ but I write for a living (even though you'd never know it) so the HHKB is ideal for my work rig.

Why does this photo leave me fixated and breathless?

It's hideous, yet I cannot turn away.









*Seinfeld reference


----------



## wermad

PWM Jingway. The much under-loved jingway gets some much deserved attention:

http://www.techpowerup.com/200181/ek-launches-pwm-variant-of-ek-dcp-4-0-water-pump.html


----------



## Destrto

Hey guys, I have a quick question for anyone knowledgeable. I just recently purchased an EK-DDC 3.25 X-RES. Both the PPCS and EK site state that it includes a mounting mechanism. But I have no mechanism or equipment in the box I received to mount it anywhere. I am getting told by PPCS that both their own site and EK's site is erroneous and that there is no mechanism supplied, that it would need to be purchased separately.

Can anyone confirm or deny this? I'd really appreciate it, as I feel as though I'm getting pushed around by this particular representative.


----------



## wermad

Did you buy the one w/ the EK top or the stock top?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Did you buy the one w/ the EK top or the stock top?


Stock top I believe. I didn't have an option to choose any other type of parts for it, besides which fittings I wanted, when ordering.

Phillyd has already PM'ed me and I'm currently awaiting a final decision.


----------



## skupples

Not really many employees @ PPC, probably dealing with Marina. I'm under the impression that if the website says it includes it, they need to include it.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Not really many employees @ PPC, probably dealing with Marina. I'm under the impression that if the website says it includes it, they need to include it.


Phillyd is who I just spoke to on here, he had the same opinion. If the site claims it is included, it should be included. The rep i spoke to in emails went by a different name.


----------



## Brian18741

Hey guys, I want to use this EK D5 X res pump/res combo with this multi port res top so that I can use one port on top as an inlet in the loop. Is this ok to do so? I can use an internal tube to stop splashing etc.

Is there an thinner res top that I can use instead of that, it looks pretty think compared to other builds I've seen.


----------



## wermad

EK's shop does says "mounting mechanism". Now, that could be the screws the hold the top or the double sided tape sponge they give with laing pumps to help absorb noise/vibrations.

I opened the instructions for both the oem laing top and the ek top. I don't see anything in there for mounting hardware like you get in the optional heatsink kit.

Well, Derick is away at the moment. I think they just sell pumps like others, just the unit itself.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> EK's shop does says "mounting mechanism". Now, that could be the screws the hold the top or the double sided tape sponge they give with laing pumps to help absorb noise/vibrations.
> 
> I opened the instructions for both the oem laing top and the ek top. I don't see anything in there for mounting hardware like you get in the optional heatsink kit.
> 
> Well, Derick is away at the moment. I think they just sell pumps like others, just the unit itself.


I spoke to Derick a few months back about this same pump/res combo, when I was doing my initial research, he assured me (included pictures) of what should be in the box when I order that product.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Not really many employees @ PPC, probably dealing with Marina. I'm under the impression that if the website says it includes it, they need to include it.


Call frozen cpu ask them.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Hey guys, I want to use this EK D5 X res pump/res combo with this multi port res top so that I can use one port on top as an inlet in the loop. Is this ok to do so? I can use an internal tube to stop splashing etc.
> 
> Is there an thinner res top that I can use instead of that, it looks pretty think compared to other builds I've seen.


Yeah, it will work. The X res is 60mm in diameter, which is the most common size reservoir these days. There are 50mm reservoirs as well, but you obviously wouldn't be able to use a 50 mm tube with the X res.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I spoke to Derick a few months back about this same pump/res combo, when I was doing my initial research, he assured me (included pictures) of what should be in the box when I order that product.


Sorry, i'm a little confused. Did you buy a pump that comes with a reservoir? Or did you buy the ddc pump and the ek res-top?

I don't see a "EK-DDC 3.25 X-RES" which implies a ddc 3.25 pump with the x-top-res unit.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Call frozen cpu ask them.


I don't really do business with FCPU as PPC is in state. FedEx has an overnight instate guarantee on shipping. not to mention FCPU seems to almost always be more expensive when not even including how much it costs to ship to Florida in a timely fashion.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I don't really do business with FCPU as PPC is in state. FedEx has an overnight instate guarantee on shipping. not to mention FCPU seems to almost always be more expensive when not even including how much it costs to ship to Florida in a timely fashion.


Okay I have dealt with both of them never had a problem with FCPU. But I can understand Since your in Florida dealing with PPC.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sorry, i'm a little confused. Did you buy a pump that comes with a reservoir? Or did you buy the ddc pump and the ek res-top?
> 
> I don't see a "EK-DDC 3.25 X-RES" which implies a ddc 3.25 pump with the x-top-res unit.


If you look on PPCS's site *HERE*, they have a res/pump combo from EK which is what I'm referring to.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> If you look on PPCS's site *HERE*, they have a res/pump combo from EK which is what I'm referring to.


Gotcha









Well, their site also says "mounting mechanism" too, but I don't see much in the instructions:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109842867.pdf

Hit up ek support for clarification btw.


----------



## akira749

I received my GPU blocks and my backplates!


----------



## MeanBruce

EK packaging is so saweet.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Gotcha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, their site also says "mounting mechanism" too, but I don't see much in the instructions:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109842867.pdf
> 
> Hit up ek support for clarification btw.


I'm currently waiting to hear back from Phillyd about the final decision. He is in agreement that if the site states "Mounting mechanism" is included, it should be included and sent to me.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I'm currently waiting to hear back from Phillyd about the final decision. He is in agreement that if the site states "Mounting mechanism" is included, it should be included and sent to me.


Hearing back from Phillyd could take months, I promise you, he delivers nothing.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I received my GPU blocks and my backplates!


Just so nice, cant wait to see these in the build


----------



## Destrto

Then Derick can respond to the PM I've sent him too. Trust me, I will not let this get lost and forgotten about.

On a lighter note, I can now be officially added to the EK Club!!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> EK packaging is so saweet.


Agreed! The new backplate packaging looks like a big fine chocolate bar...yummy!!


----------



## skupples

Hey Back plates finally got a box?! Mine have always come wrapped in bubble wrap. (?)


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Then Derick can respond to the PM I've sent him too. Trust me, I will not let this get lost and forgotten about.
> 
> On a lighter note, I can now be officially added to the EK Club!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lol, that box for the AMD block IS OLD!! Of course, most folks who buy an AMD CPU don't do custom loop so it's not totally surprising to see.


----------



## wermad

Old stuff still pretty good imho. That EK logo, I still like it that way


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, that box for the AMD block IS OLD!! Of course, most folks who buy an AMD CPU don't do custom loop so it's not totally surprising to see.


I've seen plenty AMD based custom loops. ?? Not sure on that one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Old stuff still pretty good imho. That EK logo, I still like it that way


I liked it over the newer model because it just had the EK logo on the top.

Old, new, it's still EK. Great stuff. Lol.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I received my GPU blocks and my backplates!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sexy
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Old stuff still pretty good imho. That EK logo, I still like it that way


This


----------



## wermad

This was my first Ek block, a gpu block


----------



## cpachris

They should do a retro line of blocks with that logo.....


----------



## morencyam

The Supreme HF was the best looking EK CPU block IMHO


----------



## cpachris

EK blocks keep things chilly......


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> The Supreme HF was the best looking EK CPU block IMHO











I wish I never would have sold mine.


----------



## morencyam

Such a great looking block. I love my black acetal block. I still have two old style GPU blocks as well. I'll miss them when I finally upgrade


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> The Supreme HF was the best looking EK CPU block IMHO


true dat - I miss my full nickel version

Would be pretty hilarious to have some retro tops for the more popular blocks.

I miss the wavey channels too. X58 and that generation of EK blocks was the sexiest. Derick should really find an old HF for his r3be build.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> The Supreme HF was the best looking EK CPU block IMHO
> 
> 
> 
> true dat - I miss my full nickel version
> 
> Would be pretty hilarious to have some retro tops for the more popular blocks.
> 
> I miss the wavey channels too. X58 and that generation of EK blocks was the sexiest. Derick should really find an old HF for his r3be build.
Click to expand...

Hmmm?










I will NEVER sell it, it is my favorite hands down... won't fit into my Compact Splash build but it will finds its use sooner or later.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## lowfat

Supreme HF is definitely my favourite CPU blocks around. If I wasn't doing a full CSQ theme I would definitely be using it in my Lian Li.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-42-3.jpg.html

@Jeffinslaw you should consider polishing the jet plate with some good metal polish. It can easily shine just like the nickel plated pieces with about 5 minutes of work w/ a good polish like Autosol.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a quick question for anyone knowledgeable. I just recently purchased an EK-DDC 3.25 X-RES. Both the PPCS and EK site state that it includes a mounting mechanism. But I have no mechanism or equipment in the box I received to mount it anywhere. I am getting told by PPCS that both their own site and EK's site is erroneous and that there is no mechanism supplied, that it would need to be purchased separately.
> 
> Can anyone confirm or deny this? I'd really appreciate it, as I feel as though I'm getting pushed around by this particular representative.


No it doesn't come with a mounting mechanism or plate as such

"This water pump / reservoir combo unit can be mounted directly on computer chassis by using EK-UNI D5 Holder together with EK-UNI Holder DDC ADD-ON."

The base of DDC pumps has built in mount brackets for flat surfaces.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> @Jeffinslaw you should consider polishing the jet plate with some good metal polish. It can easily shine just like the nickel plated pieces with about 5 minutes of work w/ a good polish like Autosol.


I'll do that this summer, uni has been tough since I don't have any of my computer stuff with me. That would make the block shine more.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No it doesn't come with a mounting mechanism or plate as such
> 
> "This water pump / reservoir combo unit can be mounted directly on computer chassis by using EK-UNI D5 Holder together with EK-UNI Holder DDC ADD-ON."
> 
> The base of DDC pumps has built in mount brackets for flat surfaces.


Every site this unit is sold from, including EK's own, states it includes a "mounting mechanism".

The base of the one I received does not have any built in brackets.

EDIT: It seems the EK product page has been updated as of yesterday.. No longer says a mounting mechanism is included.. I find it quite coincidental.


----------



## skupples

Isn't the first time something like that has happened. Tiborrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr be lurkin?

Hey @least you didn't get shafted like my buddy who tried buying one of those XSPC all in one kits. He picked it up (ppc & xspc show that it includes a D5) but it didn't come with the pump. (the pump that XSCP says comes with the kit. ^.^)


----------



## Jimhans1

Technically speaking, if the base is threaded for screws and they include the screws, THAT is mounting hardware........ I thought that that unit came with the screws to mount it to a horizontal location, and if you needed to mount it to a vertical location, you needed to buy that adapter bracket?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Technically speaking, if the base is threaded for screws and they include the screws, THAT is mounting hardware........ I thought that that unit came with the screws to mount it to a horizontal location, and if you needed to mount it to a vertical location, you needed to buy that adapter bracket?


There were no extra screws included to mount it anywhere, or to anything. I was, at the very least, expecting the mounting mechanism to be what you described, a way to mount it to a horizontal surface.

I just found it quite the coincidence (that leaves me a bit S.O.L. in this case) that the day I email 2 representatives from PPCS and 1 from EK, that the product information page on the EK site gets changed to remove the *mounting mechanism* part in the "Enclosed" section.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> EK blocks keep things chilly......


very nice picture


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Every site this unit is sold from, including EK's own, states it includes a "mounting mechanism".
> 
> The base of the one I received does not have any built in brackets.
> 
> EDIT: It seems the EK product page has been updated as of yesterday.. No longer says a mounting mechanism is included.. I find it quite coincidental.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> There were no extra screws included to mount it anywhere, or to anything. I was, at the very least, expecting the mounting mechanism to be what you described, a way to mount it to a horizontal surface.
> 
> I just found it quite the coincidence (that leaves me a bit S.O.L. in this case) that the day I email 2 representatives from PPCS and 1 from EK, that the product information page on the EK site gets changed to remove the *mounting mechanism* part in the "Enclosed" section.


I got my mine today and I also didn't have a "mounting mechanism" included. If I knew this was the case, I would have ordered it also. Now I have to order it and wait on finishing my build.


----------



## kcuestag

EK Supreme HF best CPU block ever made hands down!









I only regret going with the chopper version instead of the Nickel, at the time I thought Nickel was bad, now I love Nickel, wish I could get a nickel version.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> EK Supreme HF best CPU block ever made hands down!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only regret going with the chopper version instead of the Nickel, at the time I thought Nickel was bad, now I love Nickel, wish I could get a nickel version.


I went from an XSPC Raystorm to the EK Supreme and I wasn't expecting too much of a change... When I saw the multiple degree drop on the same setup I started to appreciate the block very much









I am hoping this EK gpu block I ordered performs relatively close to the heatkiller blocks I've owned before


----------



## Vlada011

Guys what you think about EK Coolstream PE 240mm radiator?
I like very much, same as XSPC AX240. With two EK Coolstream PE radiators I will save about 40e but what you think about build quality and performance.
I need radiators for faster fans 1500-1800RPM. CPU Block will be EK, GPU block EK, fittings 99% EK.
I hear EK compression fittings silver are nicely build.
It's new radiators and now many reviews or comparison. Only one thing is true, they look fantastic and what I saw promise good performance. But XSPC AX240 is well made too.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Guys what you think about EK Coolstream PE 240mm radiator?
> I like very much, same as XSPC AX240. With two EK Coolstream PE radiators I will save about 40e but what you think about build quality and performance.
> I need radiators for faster fans 1500-1800RPM. CPU Block will be EK, GPU block EK, fittings 99% EK.
> I hear EK compression fittings silver are nicely build.
> It's new radiators and now many reviews or comparison. Only one thing is true, they look fantastic and what I saw promise good performance. But XSPC AX240 is well made too.


I currently use 2 PE radiators in my CaseLabs S5. One 240 and one 360.

They perform very well, look great and are well built!


----------



## Vlada011

Thank you very much. One thing I need to know, because all stories about corrosion, algae and microbes...
I want to use finished coolant, clear from some brand. Maybe is EK than best because I live in Europe and easier to order.
EKoolant Clear protect loop and blocks, pump, reservoir,... from everything and I don't need to install silver coil or something else and it's not electrical conductive or I need something else???Blocks will be Acetal + Nickel I thought to change on 6 months liquid complete. I thought to order 2-3l of that EK Coolant, that's enough for 2 times I think. In loop will be only CPU and GPU, 150 reservoir and 2x240mm radiators.

Simple because one group use this, other say this same only cheaper, third use something else.
I thought about 10e will not kill me, and if EKCoolant Clear really protect from everything, no cases of corrosion, no conductive, than for that's best option.

I saw your Caselabs build and I build similar as you D5 pump with X-Top, only I will use EK parts and I will connect bottom of Bitspower Tank Z 150 with EK Clean CSQ D5 Top with male to male adapter G 1/4. And top of res will be 1 inlet port 2 fill port 3 led light port.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Every site this unit is sold from, including EK's own, states it includes a "mounting mechanism".
> 
> The base of the one I received does not have any built in brackets.
> 
> EDIT: It seems the EK product page has been updated as of yesterday.. No longer says a mounting mechanism is included.. I find it quite coincidental.


It was an error and they changed it. Would you rather they left it unchanged?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It was an error and they changed it. Would you rather they left it unchanged?


Nope , but they should make it right for those who bought it and were told by EK forum support that it comes with mounting brackets.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It was an error and they changed it. Would you rather they left it unchanged?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Nope , but they should make it right for those who bought it and were told by EK forum support that it comes with mounting brackets.


Exactly, as a company, they should have honored their mistake to the customer. Especially since it was only changed after it had been brought to their attention by a customer who bought the product.

I understand that, in this case, it won't happen that way. It's just disappointing that they chose to not take responsibility for their mistake.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Thank you very much. One thing I need to know, because all stories about corrosion, algae and microbes...
> I want to use finished coolant, clear from some brand. Maybe is EK than best because I live in Europe and easier to order.
> EKoolant Clear protect loop and blocks, pump, reservoir,... from everything and I don't need to install silver coil or something else and it's not electrical conductive or I need something else???Blocks will be Acetal + Nickel I thought to change on 6 months liquid complete. I thought to order 2-3l of that EK Coolant, that's enough for 2 times I think. In loop will be only CPU and GPU, 150 reservoir and 2x240mm radiators.
> 
> Simple because one group use this, other say this same only cheaper, third use something else.
> I thought about 10e will not kill me, and if EKCoolant Clear really protect from everything, no cases of corrosion, no conductive, than for that's best option.
> 
> I saw your Caselabs build and I build similar as you D5 pump with X-Top, only I will use EK parts and I will connect bottom of Bitspower Tank Z 150 with EK Clean CSQ D5 Top with male to male adapter G 1/4. And top of res will be 1 inlet port 2 fill port 3 led light port.


Yes the EK-Coolant Clear contain everything to protect your loop. You don't need to add any silver coil in it.

I'm generally using Mayhems coolant but in the past I used EK-Coolant Clear and EK-Coolant Blue and they both work very well!


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

When you install your EK gpu blocks, do you do the pattern EK shows in the installation pdf or do you a nice big drop in the middle to make sure the whole die gets covered and spread evenly?

I look at the guide and it really looks like its excessive, trying to understand if less is more applies here ( of course in the case of the die fully being covered )
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868492.pdf

Also, how many of you have used CLP/CLU on the die vs regular tim, did you see a nice temperature drop on your gpu? Trying to get some feedback from anyone I can


----------



## akira749

I don't do the EK pattern...I use a spreader to cover the whole die with a thin layer.

I never tried CLP/CLU


----------



## Destrto

When I installed my new EK cpu block, I applied very small dots in a grid pattern of 3x3 onto my CPU. I've been finding over the last year or so of TIM applications that the single dot method, the line method, and other "smaller is better" methods, that the TIM does not distribute as evenly as it should (or as I want it to), and often times leaves one side or corner over saturated, while the other will be nearly dry.


----------



## Vlada011

OK thanks, because most people propose distilled water.
I hope EKWB parts are build well, because today I first time in life hear how many peoples are angry on them because problems with water blocks, nickel plated and etc...
I start to worry little to be honest. Some blocks look terrible after month of use, they blame customers and different coolants, and even their coolant make problems(that was before 2-3 years)
and no way someone to say to me I'm guilty because I so pay attention on details that something like that is impossible.
And to be honest no many other options... Special because I don't like to mix part of different brands and styles, on picture everything from EK look nice.
And many parts from other brands are few years old, EK have some pretty new stuff as radiators Coolstream PE, EK Supremacy Clean CSQ Acelat + Nickel (maybe is only Acetal version better???),
than EK D5 Vario X Top Acetal incl D5 pump motor ( fit with CPU block excellent)...Lowara is brand for their D5 pump look pretty serious I look their site, they made bunch of different water pumps.
And I must find somewhere EK universal Supreme(or Supremacy) HF Bridge Edition on some little story probably...Than I can use and for next graphic. I hope I can use them and on graphics without IHS.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I don't do the EK pattern...I use a spreader to cover the whole die with a thin layer.
> 
> I never tried CLP/CLU


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> When I installed my new EK cpu block, I applied very small dots in a grid pattern of 3x3 onto my CPU. I've been finding over the last year or so of TIM applications that the single dot method, the line method, and other "smaller is better" methods, that the TIM does not distribute as evenly as it should (or as I want it to), and often times leaves one side or corner over saturated, while the other will be nearly dry.


thanks, would love some more feedback from others about tim on their GPU blocks


----------



## Destrto

Since I used Antec 620's on my GPU's with SigmaCool's mod, I only needed to use a small dot in the center and temps have never been any sort of issue. Since the die is so small, TIM has no problem spreading out to all corners.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> OK thanks, because most people propose distilled water.
> I hope EKWB parts are build well, because today I first time in life hear how many peoples are angry on them because problems with water blocks, nickel plated and etc...
> I start to worry little to be honest. Some blocks look terrible after month of use, they blame customers and different coolants, and even their coolant make problems(that was before 2-3 years)
> and no way someone to say to me I'm guilty because I so pay attention on details that something like that is impossible.
> And to be honest no many other options... Special because I don't like to mix part of different brands and styles, on picture everything from EK look nice.
> And many parts from other brands are few years old, EK have some pretty new stuff as radiators Coolstream PE, EK Supremacy Clean CSQ Acelat + Nickel (maybe is only Acetal version better???),
> than EK D5 Vario X Top Acetal incl D5 pump motor ( fit with CPU block excellent)...Lowara is brand for their D5 pump look pretty serious I look their site, they made bunch of different water pumps.
> And I must find somewhere EK universal Supreme(or Supremacy) HF Bridge Edition on some little story probably...Than I can use and for next graphic. I hope I can use them and on graphics without IHS.


The Nickel issue on EK's blocks is a thing of the past.

I own 5 EK CPU blocks and 4 of them are Nickel and I own 8 EK GPU blocks they all are Nickel and I never had any issue with any of them.


----------



## lowfat

@derickwm FYI EK horribly messed up the mounting on the new D5 mount. The screw holes for the mounting are BEHIND the pump body. Making it practically impossible to mount it in many situations. The holes should be a centimeter lower down. I have been trying to mount the damn thing for 1/2 hour now. Seriously frustrating.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> When you install your EK gpu blocks, do you do the pattern EK shows in the installation pdf or do you a nice big drop in the middle to make sure the whole die gets covered and spread evenly?
> 
> I look at the guide and it really looks like its excessive, trying to understand if less is more applies here ( of course in the case of the die fully being covered )
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868492.pdf
> 
> Also, how many of you have used CLP/CLU on the die vs regular tim, did you see a nice temperature drop on your gpu? Trying to get some feedback from anyone I can


No, i don't use the silly patterns EK says to use. Using lines/x patterns/smoothing out a flat layer across the entire die: All of these processes have a high chance of trapping air in between the block & the die, which can & will affect temps. The die of the waterblock is so small that a tiny dot can give you complete coverage. Like literally half the size of a pea can cover the entire die. Iv'e tested it with multiple TIMs many times over the years.

CLU is great, CLP should be discontinued, it is a hot mess to work with. The #1 problem with CLU is that it pits pure copper. It how ever works flawlessly with nickel plated blocks. It is pretty much the only TIM on the planet that you should paint on. Temp drops are minimal in comparison to a proper application of top of the line grease.

CLU damage on copper block.


----------



## Destrto

I have a question about the EK DDC 3.25 res/pump combo I just bought. It has the pin connector for RPM readout. Does that mean there is some way to modify the Pump speed? Or is that simply to give me a reading and nothing else?


----------



## lowfat

You can only control it w/ the pwm pumps. The 3.25 can only be controlled by dropping the voltage, which doesnt work great.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You can only control it w/ the pwm pumps. The 3.25 can only be controlled by dropping the voltage, which doesnt work great.


Gotcha, thanks lowfat.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> No, i don't use the silly patterns EK says to use. Using lines/x patterns/smoothing out a flat layer across the entire die: All of these processes have a high chance of trapping air in between the block & the die, which can & will affect temps. The die of the waterblock is so small that a tiny dot can give you complete coverage. Like literally half the size of a pea can cover the entire die. Iv'e tested it with multiple TIMs many times over the years.
> 
> CLU is great, CLP should be discontinued, it is a hot mess to work with. The #1 problem with CLU is that it pits pure copper. It how ever works flawlessly with nickel plated blocks. It is pretty much the only TIM on the planet that you should paint on. Temp drops are minimal in comparison to a proper application of top of the line grease.
> 
> CLU damage on copper block.


Thank you skupples

I was worried it took years for that kind of damage to happen to copper with CLU.

I do have a nickel plated block coming in, I just don't think I am going to CLU it anymore. As you mentioned, minimal drops. I already had to cheap out on thermal pads seeing I bought the fujipoly extreme instead of fujipoly ultra extreme. Getting almost a sheet worth of both for $50 as where it would have ran me $100 to get enough of the "good stuff" just to block one card, excluding my motherboard!


----------



## skupples

Eh, differences between the premium fujipoly & the super ultra extreme waste your money fujipoly are minimal. I just use GC Extreme on both sides of the tape & my temps are glorious.

That damage only took a few months.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Eh, differences between the premium fujipoly & the super ultra extreme waste your money fujipoly are minimal. I just use GC Extreme on both sides of the tape & my temps are glorious.
> 
> That damage only took a few months.


Yeah I know, I just keep telling myself otherwise








I miss how my old card was >10C cooler than everyone with same card / same card different blocks.


----------



## derickwm

So uh hi. I'm back now. I'll be responding to the PMs shortly. If there's any other pressing info I missed please let me know 

Sorry I was gone, got to go see the family for a bit and see them compete in some events.

Younger brother:










(Ball is 90 inches in the air btw)

Start from knees, jump to your feet










Holds the current world record at 67 inches










Younger sister did some too but I'll probably keep those away from the forums. All in all the family got 3 gold medals and the team altogether got 4 golds, two silvers and a bronze


----------



## skupples

I have a present for you Derick. It is called a Derick style build log update.



wooh, that was hard. Think i'll take a week off..

Your brother looks like a beast.


----------



## VSG

Yo Derick, what sport is that? Congrats to the family!


----------



## Destrto

Is there any way to deaden the motor noise/ electrical whine I'm hearing from my EK DDC pump? It seems to be more noticeable than when I first plugged it in the other day.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Is there any way to deaden the motor noise/ electrical whine I'm hearing from my EK DDC pump? It seems to be more noticeable than when I first plugged it in the other day.


It should get quieter as the air is purged from the system. Make sure it isn't sucking air from the reservoir when it is first turning on. You can also stick any kind of rubber mat under it to deaden. I think companies even make products for that exact purpose.


----------



## Vlada011

OK if you say Nickel Problem is past than I will go with EK Acetal +Nickel. Parts I will order soon.

EK Supremacy Clean CSQ Acetal + Nickel EK D5 Vario X-Top Acetal (pump inlc.)

 

D5 Cover kit EK Coolstream PE 240mm x2

 

Bitspower Tank Z 150 RES VGA Supremacy Bridge Edition

 

I will try to find this but only If I find new somewhere

 

Fittings Compression Silver combination of 3 types EK 10/13mm
I think all parts are nice, and few more little things as radiator gasket, male to male adapter G 1/4, 5mm white led diode for RES, maybe one Y splitter to make drain valve on radiator on lowest part of loop, tubes black or clear, liquid clear. About that I must read more because divided opinions about distilled water with low conductivity only. We have some awarded producer in town 0.20e 5L.


----------



## wermad

There's nickel plating and then there's actual silver or silver plating. EK nickel blocks and silver don't mix imho. Even EK says they'll void your warranty. Its confusing as some companies call nickel plating "shiny silver" or the like. As long as its not silver, you're fine.


----------



## Kranik

Just to prove that I don't just have issues with EK products here's a not great shot with not great lighting.


----------



## wermad

Well this sucks








Quote:


>


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> received this today from EK... looks like they are leaving this market to Aquacomputer.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Here's hoping someone else can do the 295x2 while costing a bit less then the crazy expensive $240 USD AC block.

I think ek is getting overwhelmed by the tremendous amount of different blocks for a few gpu ranges (ie Titan, Titan XXL, Titan SE, 780 Ti, DC2, Ltg, GW, etc.).


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well this sucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's hoping someone else can do the 295x2 while costing a bit less then the crazy expensive $240 USD AC block.
> 
> I think ek is getting overwhelmed by the tremendous amount of different blocks for a few gpu ranges (ie Titan, Titan XXL, Titan SE, 780 Ti, DC2, Ltg, GW, etc.).


Derick was asked about a block for that card, here is his reply.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Apologies for the delayed response. We are indeed in the process of finishing up the 295X2 block and should be available soon.


----------



## VSG

Honestly? I don't blame them since this is a good business decision. The market for 295x2 cards is not very high I bet and a tiny fraction of those would go past the included AIO which seems to be doing its job decently for what people want to do.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Honestly? I don't blame them since this is a good business decision. The market for 295x2 cards is not very high I bet and a tiny fraction of those would go past the included AIO which seems to be doing its job decently for what people want to do.


That's weird that their support is contradicting what Derick said. Well, I'm more inclined to go by Derick's info unless official.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Derick was asked about a block for that card, here is his reply.


Its a very popular card and its the most powerful *single* card solution. It also does quite a lot better in terms of thermals and thus having a clear advantage over its xfire counterpart. though its not too practical imho. Why we need em blocks. Right now its tad too expensive imho. Blame Nvidia for leading the greedy pack and Amd taking advantage of this. I'm hoping Amd depreciation takes hold later on.

The four dsiplay ports are a god-send for the multiple display crowd. I wants two to replace my four Lightnings







. XSPC has left the entry level segement for fullcover blocks and has gone up in scale and price. EK still makes that copper/plexi that is a tad cheaper and fills this segment nicely. That's why I was hoping they would do a block to keep it ~$150 USD,

Also, Titan-Z has been postponed. Rumor has it was slower then 295x2 and its being revamped. My guess is that Nvidia doesn't want negative pr when Maxwell is around the corner.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> OK if you say Nickel Problem is past than I will go with EK Acetal +Nickel. Parts I will order soon.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> EK Supremacy Clean CSQ Acetal + Nickel EK D5 Vario X-Top Acetal (pump inlc.)
> 
> 
> 
> D5 Cover kit EK Coolstream PE 240mm x2
> 
> 
> 
> Bitspower Tank Z 150 RES VGA Supremacy Bridge Edition
> 
> 
> 
> I will try to find this but only If I find new somewhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fittings Compression Silver combination of 3 types EK 10/13mm
> I think all parts are nice, and few more little things as radiator gasket, male to male adapter G 1/4, 5mm white led diode for RES, maybe one Y splitter to make drain valve on radiator on lowest part of loop, tubes black or clear, liquid clear. About that I must read more because divided opinions about distilled water with low conductivity only. We have some awarded producer in town 0.20e 5L.


During next month, EK will release their new universal GPU solution. It's called EK-Thermosphere. If you can wait a few weeks this might be a better solution for your GPU.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well this sucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's hoping someone else can do the 295x2 while costing a bit less then the crazy expensive $240 USD AC block.
> 
> I think ek is getting overwhelmed by the tremendous amount of different blocks for a few gpu ranges (ie Titan, Titan XXL, Titan SE, 780 Ti, DC2, Ltg, GW, etc.).


If EK decide to not release the block for the 295X2, you could take a look at Koolance for a different option over the AC block...and should be around 180$.
Koolance with fullcover water block for R9 295X2


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's nickel plating and then there's actual silver or silver plating. EK nickel blocks and silver don't mix imho. Even EK says they'll void your warranty. Its confusing as some companies call nickel plating "shiny silver" or the like. As long as its not silver, you're fine.


:facepalm:

I can't even count how many times I've specifically stated that running silver with nickel does *not* void your warranty. We don't recommend it, but you're free to do it.

As far as this 295x2 block business, there will be a block for it and it's not too far out. This is the final word on it, if any other source says differently, don't listen


----------



## VSG

Derick is personally molding bits of copper into an FC block for the 295x2 I suppose, orders first come first serve.

I am sure Wermad likely meant Koolance, not EK, who voids warranty if you don't use their coolant or have silver in the loop with nickel


----------



## skupples

Some one needs to include SajNnnnnnnnnnnnnn in the loop.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> :facepalm:
> 
> I can't even count how many times I've specifically stated that running silver with nickel does *not* void your warranty. We don't recommend it, but you're free to do it.
> 
> As far as this 295x2 block business, there will be a block for it and it's not too far out. This is the final word on it, if any other source says differently, don't listen


When did this change? Tiborr was preaching this and I agreed, its a good way to avoid having a massive influx of nickel failed rma blocks. Need i remind you of my thread?









Anyways, so its not prohibited but not condoned? The t&c are a bit vague and left to interpretation:
Quote:


> Warranty is void if a product has been tampered with in a way in which it was not designed. Misuse, modification, handling damage (i.e. dropping) will void warranty. Returned items must be in »like new« condition. Returns will not be accepted without an authorized RMA number, which is valid for 14 days after being issued.


Wouldn't something you *don't* recommend be "misuse"? Don't wanna rattle the cage but this leaves a lot to interpretation. How do we know another EK customer service rep won't "misinterpret" this? Well, just wanna to clear that up if you're clearing this up too.


----------



## derickwm

I don't remember everything that was said before I started working for EK.

Yes it's correct that we do not recommend people to use silver and probably never will. However, I've been told and have been relaying quite often recently around the forums that our warranty is not voided if you use silver. We will honor the warranty.

The two major important parts relating to our warranty is that it is 2 years from purchase and it is only valid for the original purchaser.


----------



## Vlada011

EK Thermosphere Universal GPU Block look fantastic.
I will buy components in beginning of June. Thank's god, new Universal Block is just what people need.
I thought to buy EK 780 Classy block for KP Edition Classified, but I will hard to sell that block for 2 years and better to invest something compatible with Maxwell GM110


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I don't remember everything that was said before I started working for EK.
> 
> Yes it's correct that we do not recommend people to use silver and probably never will. However, I've been told and have been relaying quite often recently around the forums that our warranty is not voided if you use silver. We will honor the warranty.
> 
> The two major important parts relating to our warranty is that it is 2 years from purchase and it is only valid for the original purchaser.












Are you guys phasing out CSQ acetal? I've only seen a few plexi csq of the newer sku's? Damn, will have to change all blocks to clean acetal/nickel







.


----------



## derickwm

As of right now we've been doing a few of the more popular motherboard blocks in nickel/acetal csq but as you've seen, not many GPUs. I won't say we're phasing it out completely but you probably won't see many of them.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> EK Thermosphere Universal GPU Block look fantastic.
> I will buy components in beginning of June. Thank's god, new Universal Block is just what people need.


Then you should be okay to buy those new blocks


----------



## sinnedone

Anyone know if the full block for the 290/290x will be made in clean full card plexi?

Like this card but plexi instead of acetal

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21664/ex-blc-1565/EK_Radeon_R9-290X_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_EK-FC_R9-290X_-_Acetal.html?tl=g30c309s2073


----------



## Pheozero

Derick, what are the chances of the new RoG boards getting a block?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Anyone know if the full block for the 290/290x will be made in clean full card plexi?
> 
> Like this card but plexi instead of acetal
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21664/ex-blc-1565/EK_Radeon_R9-290X_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_EK-FC_R9-290X_-_Acetal.html?tl=g30c309s2073


It won't.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Derick, what are the chances of the new RoG boards getting a block?


I haven't been told much about these yet, I'll inquire and get back to you.


----------



## PCModderMike

EK

__
https://flic.kr/p/14065313985


__
https://flic.kr/p/14062105701


__
https://flic.kr/p/14062125732


----------



## King4x4

^^
Pr0n!


----------



## derickwm




----------



## Kokin

Hey Derick, does the EK-FC R9-290X (Original CSQ) - Nickel come with the frosted plexi or the black acetal FC-Link? Both the FCPU and EKWB websites don't explicitly state it. There's a review of the block in Russian and it shows that it does come with the plexi FC-Link, but I just want to make sure before buying one.

Russian review of block


----------



## Vlada011

I made exactly that as ModerMike with D5 X-Top and Reservoir.
Where is best place for drain valve???(lowest point in loop). That is not clear to me how to best install drain valve and where.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Hey Derick, does the EK-FC R9-290X (Original CSQ) - Nickel come with the frosted plexi or the black acetal FC-Link? Both the FCPU and EKWB websites don't explicitly state it. There's a review of the block in Russian and it shows that it does come with the plexi FC-Link, but I just want to make sure before buying one.
> 
> Russian review of block


It does come included.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It does come included.


Is the included link the plexi version or acetal version? I want to do something like this (from PCModderMike's build log):


It needs the EK FC Bridge Single CSQ for that top part right?


----------



## Jimhans1

Yes, Plexi is what is included, and yes, the Plexi FC bridge is that little part at the top of the card in that photo.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yes, Plexi is what is included, and yes, the Plexi FC bridge is that little part at the top of the card in that photo.


Cool thank you!


----------



## derickwm




----------



## PCModderMike




----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*


Richard Nixon smiley?


----------



## PCModderMike




----------



## Jimhans1

@derickwm any news on when the new blocks for the GTX750 series cards will be available that EK mentioned a while back??
I'm wanting to use a 750Ti as a dedicated PhysX card in my system and have it cooled along with the "big" cards


----------



## derickwm

Hopefully May 13th


----------



## Jimhans1

Cool, thanks for the speedy reply!! You da man.


----------



## Jimhans1

Next question, do you know if the inlet/outlet ports will line up with my GTX780Ti EK Nickel-Plexi blocks??
Edit: will there be an EK backplate for the 750's?


----------



## derickwm

1. Very unlikely but there's a slight chance, I'll check into it.

2. AFAIK I don't believe so, but will also ask about.


----------



## Jimhans1

Cool, thanks again @derickwm


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Cool, thanks again @derickwm


Grab an evga backplate if ek don't make one











Also w/ Ti designation.


----------



## Jimhans1

Yeah @wermad I know that EVGA makes them, I just have the EK ones for the 780Ti's already and would like them all to look the same do to my OCD







if EK doesn't end up making one, I will end up using the EVGA unit for it. Thanks though!


----------



## skupples

awwww it's so cute!


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

derickwm

Any chance you know of plans to create a proper revised backplate for the 780Ti kingpin card? Would love to know for future reference.

I purchased an EK backplate not realizing it does not have the appropriate holes to flip switches on the back of the card


----------



## skupples

woah, when did powercolor start selling GPUs w/ EK blocks?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131568


----------



## Jimhans1

It was announced several months back.....


----------



## MeanBruce

Performance PCs strikes again, custom sleeving made to order, very nice work. This is Bitspower Ultra-Black fabric, specifically ask them to "shrink to fan hub, no wires visible", not just to fan frame, if you want this look.

$3 per fan. Wootiepie









How's the custom AIO coming along Bruce? It's doing ok man, thanks for asking.









...they carefully tucked it underneath the sticker...









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7204_zps31248346.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7205_zps08685e72.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7200_zps6f85dfb4.jpg.html


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> woah, when did powercolor start selling GPUs w/ EK blocks?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131568


They also did a 6990 and 7970, using ek blocks, so its not something new for them:


----------



## skupples

Sweet. EVGA should you know... learn from this... you know because... Komodo is bleh.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Sweet. EVGA should you know... learn from this... you know because... Komodo is bleh.


might be true in general

but look at the EK block for a 780ti KPE, ek said let's just fix this mount near PCI-e bracket and completely ignored the switches on the top of the card which is one of the main features of the card itself..... I'm sure if eVGA worked together with EK they would not have missed this at all









$30 backplate I'm going to have to drill through with power tools to make it actually functional







completely debating using it and just selling it brand new


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Sweet. EVGA should you know... learn from this... you know because... Komodo is bleh.


EVGA HC blocks are made by Swiftech. As far as performance, they're all very close to each other unless its not actively cooling the main components and chips.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> EVGA HC blocks are made by Swiftech. As far as performance, they're all very close to each other unless its not actively cooling the main components and chips.


Right, but lots of the models lack active VRM coverage.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> EVGA HC blocks are made by Swiftech. As far as performance, they're all very close to each other unless its not actively cooling the main components and chips.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Right, but lots of the models lack active VRM coverage.


And then there is the fact that they are MADE by Swiftech, lol. Which automatically means blah, in my experience. And because of my issues with them, I will never give swiftech any of my money honestly. Just my


----------



## derickwm

Sorry Hulk at this time we don't plan on releasing an additional backplate for the KPE.


----------



## PCModderMike

You no make backplate, Hulk smash!


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Sorry Hulk at this time we don't plan on releasing an additional backplate for the KPE.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> You no make backplate, Hulk smash!


----------



## p33k

Can the EK D5 pump/res combo be used in horizontal position? Below why I am asking

I thinking about purchasing the motherboard backplate and psu cover for my switch 810 from coldzero's store. It has 140mm fan holes cut out on the top mesh part. I would put 2 (UN)Design 140mm brackets on the fan holes (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_767&products_id=26416&zenid=b113d39186f32e7a8bb4647706675002) and use the EK X3 holders (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-res-x3-series/ek-res-x3-holder-60mm-2pcs.html) to hold the res to the UN brackets.

Or is this a bad idea? Thanks


----------



## PCModderMike

It can be used in any position you want as long as you have the res feeding it properly.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Can the EK D5 pump/res combo be used in horizontal position? Below why I am asking
> 
> I thinking about purchasing the motherboard backplate and psu cover for my switch 810 from coldzero's store. It has 140mm fan holes cut out on the top mesh part. I would put 2 (UN)Design 140mm brackets on the fan holes (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_767&products_id=26416&zenid=b113d39186f32e7a8bb4647706675002) and use the EK X3 holders (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-res-x3-series/ek-res-x3-holder-60mm-2pcs.html) to hold the res to the UN brackets.
> 
> Or is this a bad idea? Thanks


As long as the pump is not facing directly down, it shouldn't matter what orientation you set your pump/res combo. My old D5 was mounted horizontally and vertically in the different positions I've tried when I used it with a XSPC tank res. The only reason why it shouldn't face down is that air bubbles can easily get trapped inside the magnetic propeller.


----------



## PCModderMike

Yea I think it's probably very clear to most that you wouldn't want to run a pump upside down (although you never know). I've used a D5 in both vertical and horizontal orientations and both work fine.


__
https://flic.kr/p/14065746434


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Can the EK D5 pump/res combo be used in horizontal position? Below why I am asking
> 
> I thinking about purchasing the motherboard backplate and psu cover for my switch 810 from coldzero's store. It has 140mm fan holes cut out on the top mesh part. I would put 2 (UN)Design 140mm brackets on the fan holes (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_767&products_id=26416&zenid=b113d39186f32e7a8bb4647706675002) and use the EK X3 holders (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-res-x3-series/ek-res-x3-holder-60mm-2pcs.html) to hold the res to the UN brackets.
> 
> Or is this a bad idea? Thanks


It just means you need to pay closer attention to fill level. Running at 90 degrees the Res only has to drop to half full and the pump will be sucking air. Just keep it nice and full so the waterline is well above the intake and it is no problem.


----------



## cpachris

EK. It's what's for breakfast.


----------



## skupples

The other white meat?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The other white meat?


Lol....another good one. Maybe @Jameswalt1 could look into this if his orange Mayhem's doesn't work out.


----------



## PCModderMike

Nom nom nom


----------



## Kimir

Oh, that's what the EK res are made for?


----------



## derickwm




----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> EK. It's what's for breakfast.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Oh, that's what the EK res are made for?


what kind of block is that in the background?


----------



## strong island 1

it's a full cover waffle.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> it's a full cover waffle.


----------



## skupples




----------



## Kokin

Looks so good...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> EK. It's what's for breakfast.


Is that heavy cream on your waffle?


----------



## derickwm

More importantly, what kind of waffle iron did you use?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Is that heavy cream on your waffle?


Powdered sugar.....and yes, I did eat it afterwards.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> More importantly, what kind of waffle iron did you use?


All-Clad Belgium Waffle maker. Is there any other brand?


----------



## Vlada011

People because I have Obsidian 650D and I must install two 240mm radiators is it problem to install loop order as on this pictures...
This is only to show you liquid diagram I will make different little...







I must to go with this order
1. res/pump combo > bottom radiator > gpu > cpu > top radiator > top of res/pump>....
2. res/pump combo > bottom radiator > gpu > top radiator > cpu > top of res/pump>...

First option is much easier and nicer for loop shape...
I know it's best way if water directly from pump go on CPU or GPU and than radiator but simply I will completely lose in such loop with tubes.
And I think 2x240mm radiators for CPU and One GPU and D5 pump will not be bad temps and if liquid go with this order. I plan to use 10/13mm compression fittings.
What you think? Maybe is first picture best option for me.
And for that I cut floor of 650D for 240mm radiator.
I don't want 200mm.


----------



## skupples

loop order really doesn't matter, rule of thump: res above pump cuz gravity is your friend.


----------



## PCModderMike

This^

One thing that's the same in all of those photos is that the res is right above the pump...beyond that, just do whatever loop order looks cleanest and is easiest for you.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Finished my first custom loop the other day. Its not the best but I'm happy with it. I really like the new ek radiators, they are pretty nice.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Finished my first custom loop the other day. Its not the best but I'm happy with it. I really like the new ek radiators, they are pretty nice.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Congrats! It looks pretty clean for a first time loop. You can eventually start adding angled fittings if you want to get cleaner tube routing, but it's more of an aesthetic choice.


----------



## Vlada011

I will go with 2x EK Nickel PSC Adapter(rotary) 45 on CPU block maybe and on GPU( I mut bouth at least 4), Nickel CSQ Adapter 90 on D5 Top outlet and top inlet port.(2)
On radiators I will probably install EK Nickel CSQ Fittings normal(8-10). I don't know how to install drain valve on bottom radiator.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> I will go with 2x EK Nickel PSC Adapter(rotary) 45 on CPU block maybe and on GPU( I mut bouth at least 4), Nickel CSQ Adapter 90 on D5 Top outlet and top inlet port.(2)
> On radiators I will probably install EK Nickel CSQ Fittings normal(8-10). I don't know how to install drain valve on bottom radiator.


Just stick it into one of the extra caps.


----------



## Vlada011

Is it possible instead one fitting on bottom radiator to install one Y adapter. From one side continue tube in GPU and on other side drain valve?
Is it possible something as that to work.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Is it possible instead one fitting on bottom radiator to install one Y adapter. From one side continue tube in GPU and on other side drain valve?
> Is it possible something as that to work.


Yes, that would work as well.


----------



## Vlada011

This is maybe plan for valve ... Don't laugh to me because this is my first build before one month I didn't know name of 90% parts...











I will improve idea


----------



## dredeziel1

consider me a EK club member now...First loop ever...adding more when my money decides i can get it...so far so good..


----------



## midnightgypsy

Can I join the club.... This is my first loop also.... Russ


----------



## pennover

Been thinking about ordering this one for my Asus GTX 780 OC DCII:



but in the pictures, it's not shown how the "loop connection element" will look like resp. which angles the fittings can be attached at (I will use just one card)?

And another question: why is there a nickel part and not body plexi cover?

Thanks!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Like this as standard



Or you can buy the single bridge
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-single.html

Not sure what you mean exactly by Nickel part but if you mean the stainless steel plate on the front, any card that is designed with a vertical row of caps for the VRM section will need a metal plate to bridge water from the main GPU/ram section to the VRM and back again.


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnightgypsy*
> 
> Can I join the club.... This is my first loop also.... Russ


That's kind of art. Acrylic tubes.
I will be new in watercooling but one day maybe and I make something similar.
That's Maximus 5 Extreme but what is case model??? It's nice to see E-ATX motherboard in little case.
And place for 360mm radiator miss me so much.


----------



## pennover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Or you can buy the single bridge
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-single.html


Ah great, thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Not sure what you mean exactly by Nickel part but if you mean the stainless steel plate on the front, any card that is designed with a vertical row of caps for the VRM section will need a metal plate to bridge water from the main GPU/ram section to the VRM and back again.


Yeah, that's what I meant.


----------



## pennover

Any experience using clear CSQ blocks with Mayhems dye and switching to another color after, say, a year? Does it stain the plexi of the EK blocks?


----------



## Vlada011

After reading I hear this is maybe best solution for water cooling?

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/5-ltr-ultra-pure-h20.html

and this and nothing else...

http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Coils-Antimicrobial-999-Strip/dp/B00A66HMRC/ref=pd_bxgy_misc_img_y


----------



## derickwm

We don't recommend people to use silver in loops anymore.


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> After reading I hear this is maybe best solution for water cooling?
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/5-ltr-ultra-pure-h20.html
> 
> and this and nothing else...
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Coils-Antimicrobial-999-Strip/dp/B00A66HMRC/ref=pd_bxgy_misc_img_y






I wouldn't waste your money on Mayhem's snake oil H2O. I would how ever recommend his X-1 line of products, without silver.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We don't recommend people to use silver in loops anymore.


round and round it goes where it stops nobody knows!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> I wouldn't waste your money on Mayhem's snake oil H2O. I would how ever recommend his X-1 line of products, without silver.
> round and round it goes where it stops nobody knows!


Well I have all copper EK blocks and I am going to use the Monsoon Hardline fittings and they are silver so hope it don't hurt anything!!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Well I have all copper EK blocks and I am going to use the Monsoon Hardline fittings and they are silver so hope it don't hurt anything!!


I'm in the same boat, but my blocks are ek and mips nickel. Hope all works out! I wanted to use some pastel in one of the builds but maybe I will use ekoolant just to be ekovered.


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We don't recommend people to use silver in loops anymore.


Why? What they should use to prevent algae and microbes and to liquid stay clear and fresh.
Changing on every 3 months is not enough I suppose only. Maybe some Nuke or... or EK Clear Coolant finish job for everything.
But I don't want to discover something else after 5 months.


----------



## lowfat

Avoid standing water and you should be able to avoid growth assuming you are using distilled water. Biological growth is very rare in watercooling. You should be worrying about plasticizier, crud from the radiator, and corrosion before growth IMHO.


----------



## derickwm

You're free to use what you want but with nickel blocks we recommend our own EK-Ekoolant to be used alongside it or something from Mayhems that has a biocide included.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Why? What they should use to prevent algae and microbes and to liquid stay clear and fresh.
> Changing on every 3 months is not enough I suppose only. Maybe some Nuke or... or EK Clear Coolant finish job for everything.
> But I don't want to discover something else after 5 months.


Mayhem's Clear X-1(Not XT-1) or EK Ekoolant.


----------



## Ragsters

Just finished installing the monarch ram block per the directions. After installation I noticed thermal pads in the box. Should I have used the thermal pads between the ram sink and the monarch block? I did exactly what the instructions say and used TIM. The directions did not mention using thermal pads.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Just finished installing the monarch ram block per the directions. After installation I noticed thermal pads in the box. Should I have used the thermal pads between the ram sink and the monarch block? I did exactly what the instructions say and used TIM. The directions did not mention using thermal pads.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Pads are for on the RAM itself. http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109857069.pdf
Quote:


> STEP 3: APPLYING THE THERMAL PADS
> 
> Each module comes with two Thermal Pad A - 0.5mm (100x16mm) thermal pads which need to be trimmed in order to fit eight (or nine in case of ECC) memory IC chips on each side of the memory module as shown on the picture below. Repeat the procedure for the IC on the back side of the PCB.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Why? What they should use to prevent algae and microbes and to liquid stay clear and fresh.
> Changing on every 3 months is not enough I suppose only. Maybe some Nuke or... or EK Clear Coolant finish job for everything.
> But I don't want to discover something else after 5 months.
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhem's Clear X-1(Not XT-1) or EK Ekoolant.
Click to expand...

This ^^


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> Any experience using clear CSQ blocks with Mayhems dye and switching to another color after, say, a year? Does it stain the plexi of the EK blocks?


Note that buying the single bridge will make it like a standard GPU block:



As far as I know, it shouldn't stain at all. The metal of the block itself may get stained, but it can be easily cleaned off. The only thing that was stained and persisted to stay after many flushes was the dye stuck inside my radiators.

I used Mayhem's Blue dye + distilled for about a month or two and it would stain the distilled water only loop I had afterwards, despite being thorough with cleaning all my blocks and rads. I'm guessing some of the dye got stuck in the micro channels of my rads. Even after switching to Mayhem's Ice White Pastel, the coolant has slightly gotten a bluish tint from my radiators. It's strange because I spent well over an hour flushing the radiators each time I took my loop apart and the water would come out clear, but my loop would get a blue tint after running for a few days.


----------



## skupples

Just for you Derick.



hopefully my replacement third Titan will be here today.


----------



## Vlada011

If you say so than it's easier for me to get EK Clear Coolant.
OK, tubing Primochill or Masterkleer or Tygon... I have 2 or 3 wariants.
One is Dark Red, other is black, third is maybe even Norprene, 10/13mm... I don't want to bend tubes lot only something where plasticizer will not make problems.


----------



## Tempest2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Pads are for on the RAM itself. http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109857069.pdf


I used the pads between the top of the ram sticks and the block. The reason why I thought it was potentially an option was because I'm using Corsair Dominator GT ram and they use similar thermal pads between the top of the ram and their stock heatsinks. I have yet to finish assembling my loop, so I'll go ahead and take the opportunity to switch over to thermal paste...


----------



## BradleyW

Hey everyone. Where can I buy some replacement screws that hold the EK R9 290X water block together, both sizes?
Thank you.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tempest2000*
> 
> I used the pads between the top of the ram sticks and the block. The reason why I thought it was potentially an option was because I'm using Corsair Dominator GT ram and they use similar thermal pads between the top of the ram and their stock heatsinks. I have yet to finish assembling my loop, so I'll go ahead and take the opportunity to switch over to thermal paste...


Wait until Derrick chimes in on this. Why would EK supply thermal pads with the ram block if not to use it between the heatsink and block. After all, the EK Universal ram sinks come with their own set of thermal pads.


----------



## Tempest2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Wait until Derrick chimes in on this. Why would EK supply thermal pads with the ram block if not to use it between the heatsink and block. After all, the EK Universal ram sinks come with their own set of thermal pads.


Good point. I honestly don't think that it really matters either way.

Here's what I was talking about regarding my ram and the stock heat sinks using thermal pads anyway. I just replaced those with the EK pads that came with the block...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> If you say so than it's easier for me to get EK Clear Coolant.
> OK, tubing Primochill or Masterkleer or Tygon... I have 2 or 3 wariants.
> One is Dark Red, other is black, third is maybe even Norprene, 10/13mm... I don't want to bend tubes lot only something where plasticizer will not make problems.


To avoid plasticizer issues go with Primochill Advanced LRT


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tempest2000*
> 
> Good point. I honestly don't think that it really matters either way.
> 
> Here's what I was talking about regarding my ram and the stock heat sinks using thermal pads anyway. I just replaced those with the EK pads that came with the block...


Yes I know. I'm using those sticks as well. I applied TIM on mine but I wished I used the pads instead. Because of the crack at the top of the stock heat sink its going to be a pain to remove the paste when I need to.


----------



## Tempest2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Yes I know. I'm using those sticks as well. I applied TIM on mine but I wished I used the pads instead. Because of the crack at the top of the stock heat sink its going to be a pain to remove the paste when I need to.


Well another thing I just realized is that the block I have is for 4 sticks of ram, and they only gave me two thermal pads, which was exactly enough to put on the top of 4 sticks between the block. It probably wouldn't have been enough to cover all of the modules on 4 sticks instead.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> To avoid plasticizer issues go with Primochill Advanced LRT


It will still yellow over time though.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It will still yellow over time though.


Agreed


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It will still yellow over time though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Agreed


Huh, I've had some clear Advanced LRT running in a system for over 12 months, still as clear as the day it went in.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey everyone. Where can I buy some replacement screws that hold the EK R9 290X water block together, both sizes?
> 
> Thank you.


Here is the EK replacement hardware page at FCPU: http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c585/s1881/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Replacement_Parts-EK_Replacement_Hardware-Page1.html


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey everyone. Where can I buy some replacement screws that hold the EK R9 290X water block together, both sizes?
> Thank you.


EK sell replacement mounting sets,the screws that connect blocks to the cards but not generally the screws that hold blocks together.

Last time I was looking for some when I bought a GPU block second hand with some missing they were just standard m4 socket button caps. On the card I had they were 8mm I think but others may be different.
Edit, Also from memory because it was a 7970 it had a stainless front plate and they were countersunk m3 for that section I think. It seems that from CSQ blocks onward they don't use button caps any more too. Just flat socket caps


----------



## derickwm

If you can't find what you need at FrozenCPU (at the link Jim provided) then make a new ticket with our support and they can work on getting you some.

@Ragsters , use TIM. I'm not sure why you got thermal pads with your Monarch block. As others have said thermal pads come with the Monarch modules but not usually with the block itself. I have TIM on mine personally.

Thermosphere is ready


----------



## Jimhans1

Hey @derickwm have you heard back about the port spacing between the GTX780Ti block Clean Nickel-Plexi and the 750Ti block?


----------



## VSG

Ya, saw that on the EK website. Pricing is not bad at all, I might get one to try out myself


----------



## derickwm

@Jimhans1 the word going around is not likely. It'd take the right set of GPUs. Lots of 750 Tis. I wouldn't count on them lining up personally. Sorry :/


----------



## Jimhans1

Ooops, was in the middle of a PM when you replied. Thx.

Here's to hoping that the folks at evga have standardized the core placements between the card series then, lol. Either way, it's gonna happen, just might make doing the fitting connections a pain I guess, lol.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If you can't find what you need at FrozenCPU (at the link Jim provided) then make a new ticket with our support and they can work on getting you some.
> 
> @Ragsters
> , use TIM. I'm not sure why you got thermal pads with your Monarch block. As others have said thermal pads come with the Monarch modules but not usually with the block itself. I have TIM on mine personally.
> 
> Thermosphere is ready


Thanks Derrick! It might be an issue you guys should look into. I saw a YouTube video with someone getting the pads in their Monarch block packaging as well. Even if using the pads happens to be a non-issue, sending them out without needing them could be costing you guys some money.


----------



## Dhalgren65

I just now joined!
I've had CPU under water for about 11 months-LTX AMD Acetal-NO problems!
I JUST added 2 R9 290X Fullcovers{a first} to my MSI 290 Gaming 4G bobs...
I had Sw***** MCW*2-7900's w/full air /hybrid covers on previous 7950's-
I could not wait to get w/R290 tech any longer,picked the best I could{and got a DEEEAL}
I know VRM temp is critical-I used 11mkw Fuji Prem instead of pkg included material.
One question-what type(MFG) is the EK supplied stuff?
Oh,and another-(I'm looking at you Der)
The MSI backplate does not have the two holes on the back end drilled so they did not go on-
I want them-
I need longer screws from backside for all but the two end screws and the 4 GPU jobs-
I _think_ I read somewhere that I need EK M3 by 6? (frozen,etc)
Is that right?


----------



## niketpla

sup guys.... just installed the l360 kit. plan on getting the gpu block in soon.


----------



## lowfat

O hai.


----------



## niketpla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> O hai.












you mirin bro?


----------



## Tempest2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> @Ragsters
> , use TIM. I'm not sure why you got thermal pads with your Monarch block. As others have said thermal pads come with the Monarch modules but not usually with the block itself. I have TIM on mine personally.


Thanks for the info. You may be interested to know (as I recently mentioned) that my monarch block came with two strips of thermal pads. I ordered it from performancepcs in mid December. Here's the line from the invoice:

1 x EK-RAM Monarch X4 CSQ - Water Block for Corsair Dominator Ram - Nickel (EK-RAM-DOM-X4-NK-CSQ)

I did not purchase any monarch modules as my ram already had the appropriate Dominator modules.


----------



## PCModderMike

Filling the loop

__
https://flic.kr/p/14095959316


----------



## skupples

messing w/ the light balance intensity on this finepix camera. Couldn't find a happy medium, this looks better than the too dark.


----------



## silveralf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Filling the loop
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/14095959316


Nice! Pastel Blue Berry??


----------



## PCModderMike

Thanks! Yep Mayhems pastel blue berry, darkened up slightly with some of their dark blue dye.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Filling the loop
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/14095959316


Hey man, where do you get those cable seperater things?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Filling the loop
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/14095959316
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey man, where do you get those cable seperater things?
Click to expand...

Hey man, here ya go. CLICK


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Hey man, here ya go. CLICK


Sweet, thanks. Been needing those.

EDIT: Do you know anything about these cable combs? *LINK*
What I'm wondering about is, are they 6 slots on top and bottom = 6x6? or 3x3.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Hey man, here ya go. CLICK
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet, thanks. Been needing those.
> 
> EDIT: Do you know anything about these cable combs? *LINK*
> What I'm wondering about is, are they 6 slots on top and bottom = 6x6? or 3x3.
Click to expand...

I haven't used those, but I am using the LC Cable Comb Codename: Stealth from Lutro0 which is similar.

__
https://flic.kr/p/14122490555
http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-cable-comb-codename-stealth
I'm not sure I'm understanding your 6x6 and 3x3 question.....are you asking if they make them for cables such as a 6pin or 8pin? If so, then yes.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Sweet, thanks. Been needing those.
> 
> EDIT: Do you know anything about these cable combs? *LINK*
> What I'm wondering about is, are they 6 slots on top and bottom = 6x6? or 3x3.


I ordered a few of these some weeks back, I haven't used them yet, but the slots look quite small. They work w/ my pre-sleeved Corsair cables, but they might cause issues on a fatter sleeve. These types of combs come in all sizes, 24 pin, 6 pin, 8 pin.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Here is the EK replacement hardware page at FCPU: http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c585/s1881/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Replacement_Parts-EK_Replacement_Hardware-Page1.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> EK sell replacement mounting sets,the screws that connect blocks to the cards but not generally the screws that hold blocks together.
> 
> Last time I was looking for some when I bought a GPU block second hand with some missing they were just standard m4 socket button caps. On the card I had they were 8mm I think but others may be different.
> Edit, Also from memory because it was a 7970 it had a stainless front plate and they were countersunk m3 for that section I think. It seems that from CSQ blocks onward they don't use button caps any more too. Just flat socket caps


Thanks, I will look into it.


----------



## Destrto

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I haven't used those, but I am using the LC Cable Comb Codename: Stealth from Lutro0 which is similar.
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/14122490555
> http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-cable-comb-codename-stealth
> I'm not sure I'm understanding your 6x6 and 3x3 question.....are you asking if they make them for cables such as a 6pin or 8pin? If so, then yes.






The ones in the link, look like they fit in between the cable, say a 6 or 8 pin.
See what I mean?


----------



## Kimir

It's on lustr0 as well
http://lutro0-customs.com/products/cable-comb


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> To avoid plasticizer issues go with Primochill Advanced LRT


With them I saw many problems with plasticizer...
I saw Thermosphere in EKWB online shop. In two version and black look fantastic. I hope it's fully compatible with GTX700 series Classified models.
Example I don't like sleeve cables separator, I love to behave with them as default cables, no matter where is wire, natural look much better, tight with tracks.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> With them I saw many problems with plasticizer...


Primochill Primoflex *Pro* LRT had big issues with plasticizer but Primochill Primoflex *Advanced* LRT has corrected the issue.


----------



## Vlada011

Thanks, I didn't know for that I will try to find pack with flush fluid 15ml bottle. Is it that procedure
important part or not so.
And I think for my build I will go with smaller reservoir Bitspower Tank Z 100 not 150.
For GPU and CPU is enough and two rads 240mm if that matter at all.
I always figure out something need to buy separate, for Bitspower Tank Z version 100 sell only with caps with 2 and 3 ports on other side, and I need 1 port on one side and 3 on other, than I must buy separate fill cap.
Because with two ports reservoir will not stay on middle of D5 X-Top, place with one port I will connect with pump with thiner=better adapter.
Good thing is because such parts I have option in future for everything and black color is always IN.
Never become bored. Only fittings I can sell and buy others.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> With them I saw many problems with plasticizer...
> I saw Thermosphere in EKWB online shop. In two version and black look fantastic. I hope it's fully compatible with GTX700 series Classified models.
> Example I don't like sleeve cables separator, I love to behave with them as default cables, no matter where is wire, natural look much better, tight with tracks.


Yes it is compatible with I think almost all cards. Definitely 780 classy, 780 ti classy and kingpin. I'm using the older one on my kingpin now. It's nice if you switch out cards a lot. I am also going to use it on my 290x lightning.


----------



## ARacoma9999

Hey guys, just saw this thread. I was looking to start water cooling and am leaning towards the EK L120 kit to start off. I'm just gonna be cooling my CPU for now, but as far as that kit goes, would it be a good started kit and are there any pieces that you'd recommend replacing due to it being not a particularly good piece? Thanks for any feedback~


----------



## Vlada011

Because of that I want to buy universal block. Because when final version of Maxwell show up, we need to pay 100-150$ over reference model only for card, and 100-120 for block is lot of money. Special if I enjoy only in highest fabric clock, I OC only for fun but for gaming is very important to me default clock to be much higher than NVIDIA specifications. Don't like Idea to save higher clock and buggy games and drivers to reset my clock.
And it's very hard to sell in moment when need full cover block for some rear specific cards for nice price. You offer together with card, sometime with symbolic higher price only to attract customers. Universal GPU block will be nice, VRM section Is not so hot as on DC2 cards, I will keep EVGA baseplate and backplate and try to help with heatsinks over that if need. Maybe some thermal pad on back side of card and longer passive heatsink. KP Classified will look as red monster from hell Diablo.


----------



## strong island 1

just get a high rpm delta and use some sort of band to attach to the vrm section and some airflow over the memory baseplate and you are good. I am using a corsair sp120 until I get a delta and it works good for right now.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Thanks, I didn't know for that I will try to find pack with flush fluid 15ml bottle. Is it that procedure
> important part or not so.
> And I think for my build I will go with smaller reservoir Bitspower Tank Z 100 not 150.
> For GPU and CPU is enough and two rads 240mm if that matter at all.
> I always figure out something need to buy separate, for Bitspower Tank Z version 100 sell only with caps with 2 and 3 ports on other side, and I need 1 port on one side and 3 on other, than I must buy separate fill cap.
> Because with two ports reservoir will not stay on middle of D5 X-Top, place with one port I will connect with pump with thiner=better adapter.
> Good thing is because such parts I have option in future for everything and black color is always IN.
> Never become bored. Only fittings I can sell and buy others.


I never used the flush fluid that comes in the pack









If you want the 100mm version, your best option would be to buy the TankZ-150 and buy the 100mm tube alone. It might be your cheapest solution.


----------



## Vlada011

Or only this part.



I think that's compatible with Bitspower Tank Z Multi 100 V2



Did I get O-rings with reservoir or I need to buy separate?
I need 2 correct?


----------



## BradleyW

Hello,
What's the difference between Type A and Type B EK thermal pads?
http://www.scan.co.uk/search.aspx?q=EK+thermal+pads
Thank you.


----------



## skupples

Or-ings will come with the reservoir, i'm not sure if EK tops are compatible w/ BP tops.


----------



## midnightgypsy

The threads are the same... Just be sure to get the right mm tube res.... Should work... If the res and top are the same mm...


----------



## failwheeldrive

Ek tops are not compatible with BP tubes. The threads are female on EK tops, and male on BP tops.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> Hey guys, just saw this thread. I was looking to start water cooling and am leaning towards the EK L120 kit to start off. I'm just gonna be cooling my CPU for now, but as far as that kit goes, would it be a good started kit and are there any pieces that you'd recommend replacing due to it being not a particularly good piece? Thanks for any feedback~


The L120 would be fine for a CPU loop. Not saying this just because I'm the rep, but you'll honestly be fine with everything included. Once you add a GPU though you'll need to get an additional radiator though. The pump is plenty for a simple loop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hello,
> What's the difference between Type A and Type B EK thermal pads?
> http://www.scan.co.uk/search.aspx?q=EK+thermal+pads
> Thank you.


Size


----------



## midnightgypsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Ek tops are not compatible with BP tubes. The threads are female on EK tops, and male on BP tops.


Thank you for correcting me.... As to not streer him wrong.... Dang, I've shoud of seen that... lol Russ


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnightgypsy*
> 
> Thank you for correcting me.... As to not streer him wrong.... Dang, I've shoud of seen that... lol Russ


No problem, I figured they were compatible myself until I randomly decided to try and put a top from one of my EK reservoirs onto one of my BP tubes







it's easy to miss.


----------



## ARacoma9999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Oh right... I made that video even haha. Well... I would still say go with the TIM.
> 
> The L120 would be fine for a CPU loop. Not saying this just because I'm the rep, but you'll honestly be fine with everything included. Once you add a GPU though you'll need to get an additional radiator though. The pump is plenty for a simple loop.
> 
> Size


Thanks! I've been trying to get some decent reviews on it. I really don't wanna get an XSPC kit cause I hear their bay pumps are bad. I think I might get a 240 kit though, still trying to decide.


----------



## derickwm

Here's a video to help show how easy it is for our kits to be installed


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Hey guys.
I am in shopping for a GPU block, and have a quick question I would like to have cleared up.

It is for a Club3D R9-290. But There are two models of blocks for that GPU. EK-FC R9-290X and EK-FC R9-290X Rev.2.0 .
I know it says that the rev.2.0 adds support for certain MSI and Gigabyte cards, but is there any other difference? Would one be a better choice than the other or does it make no difference unless you have one of the specific MSI or Gigabyte cards?

My thinking is that since one is a newer model, they might have made other small changes to it apart from just the added compatibility. Or it could be the other way around, where the changes made to accommodate the new cards, make it less effective for reference cards.

I might be over thinking this, but such is my nature.


----------



## wermad

Http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist

Its compatiblewith both









I don't see any major differences .


----------



## derickwm

You'll be fine with either







no major differences, just a couple small adjustments to fix compatibility.


----------



## niketpla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Here's a video to help show how easy it is for our kits to be installed


just installed the l360 kit. very simple with nice components... the only issue was fitting it into the case.


----------



## BradleyW

Hello,
I'm looking for replacement screws for the EK FC R9 290X water block. I got in touch with EK and they told me the screw dimensions (For the screws which physically hold the copper plate to the acrylic cover)

M3x11 DIN7991 9pcs
M4x8 DIN7984 7pcs

I don't fully understand these details. Could someone help me find these screws please? This is highly urgent please.
Thank you.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

You could try your local hardware store and tell them the dimensions. Sometimes they carry those small screws. Or maybe a radio control hobby shop. My nitro buggy has a few of those small screws.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hello,
> I'm looking for replacement screws for the EK FC R9 290X water block. I got in touch with EK and they told me the screw dimensions (For the screws which physically hold the copper plate to the acrylic cover)
> 
> M3x11 DIN7991 9pcs
> M4x8 DIN7984 7pcs
> 
> I don't fully understand these details. Could someone help me find these screws please? This is highly urgent please.
> Thank you.


Can't find the m3x11 but here's the x10 and x12, just try those, you could always shorten the x12 if the x10 is too short.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18638/scr-624/EK_Replacement_Screw_-_M3_x_12_Vijak_M3x12_7991DIN.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18633/scr-619/EK_Replacement_Screw_-_M3_x_10_Vijak_M3x10_7991DIN.html

Here' the m4x8

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18687/scr-673/EK_Replacement_Screw_-_M4_x_8_Vijak_M4x8_DIN7984.html


----------



## derickwm

Beat me to it, James. Weird that Frozen doesn't have the 11mm. If you're in a rush you can order from us. If you're not you can ask Frozen to order it and they will.

Of course check your local hardware stores too.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hello,
> I'm looking for replacement screws for the EK FC R9 290X water block. I got in touch with EK and they told me the screw dimensions (For the screws which physically hold the copper plate to the acrylic cover)
> 
> M3x11 DIN7991 9pcs
> M4x8 DIN7984 7pcs
> 
> I don't fully understand these details. Could someone help me find these screws please? This is highly urgent please.
> Thank you.


In the UK, all from same Amazon partner, free UK shipping, all in stock. Under 5 quid









M3 x 10mm countersunk
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bolt-Base-Stainless-Countersunk-Socket/dp/B00B3RI2TU/ref=sr_1_16?m=A1P9DCA88LI1WF&s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1399506634&sr=1-16&keywords=m3+10mm+countersunk

M3 x 12mm countersunk
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bolt-Base-Stainless-Countersunk-Socket/dp/B00B3RI632/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1399506483&sr=8-4&keywords=m3+12mm+countersunk

M4 x 8mm socket cap
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bolt-Base-Stainless-Steel-Socket/dp/B00B3RJ406/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1399506899&sr=8-4&keywords=m4+x+8+bolt+base


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> You could try your local hardware store and tell them the dimensions. Sometimes they carry those small screws. Or maybe a radio control hobby shop. My nitro buggy has a few of those small screws.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Can't find the m3x11 but here's the x10 and x12, just try those, you could always shorten the x12 if the x10 is too short.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18638/scr-624/EK_Replacement_Screw_-_M3_x_12_Vijak_M3x12_7991DIN.html
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18633/scr-619/EK_Replacement_Screw_-_M3_x_10_Vijak_M3x10_7991DIN.html
> 
> Here' the m4x8
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18687/scr-673/EK_Replacement_Screw_-_M4_x_8_Vijak_M4x8_DIN7984.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Beat me to it, James. Weird that Frozen doesn't have the 11mm. If you're in a rush you can order from us. If you're not you can ask Frozen to order it and they will.
> 
> Of course check your local hardware stores too.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> In the UK, all from same Amazon partner, free UK shipping, all in stock. Under 5 quid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> M3 x 10mm countersunk
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bolt-Base-Stainless-Countersunk-Socket/dp/B00B3RI2TU/ref=sr_1_16?m=A1P9DCA88LI1WF&s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1399506634&sr=1-16&keywords=m3+10mm+countersunk
> 
> M3 x 12mm countersunk
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bolt-Base-Stainless-Countersunk-Socket/dp/B00B3RI632/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1399506483&sr=8-4&keywords=m3+12mm+countersunk
> 
> M4 x 8mm socket cap
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bolt-Base-Stainless-Steel-Socket/dp/B00B3RJ406/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1399506899&sr=8-4&keywords=m4+x+8+bolt+base


All these posts have certainly been very helpful. +1 to all.


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Has anyone tried these?: EK-FAN Silent 120-1600 RPM

They are made by GELID and look to have a design quite similar to some of theirs. I haven't been able to find a GELID branded fan that matches the design and specs precisely, so I assume these are either made specifically for EK or just not sold by GELID themselves.

Specs look pretty decent for the price (which is generally around 5-6 euros).

This is literally the only test/review I have been able to find:



While the decibels are a bit on the high side, the noise characteristics seem very good.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dire Squirrel*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried these?: EK-FAN Silent 120-1600 RPM
> 
> They are made by GELID and look to have a design quite similar to some of theirs. I haven't been able to find a GELID branded fan that matches the design and specs precisely, so I assume these are either made specifically for EK or just not sold by GELID themselves.
> 
> Specs look pretty decent for the price (which is generally around 5-6 euros).
> 
> This is literally the only test/review I have been able to find:
> 
> 
> 
> While the decibels are a bit on the high side, the noise characteristics seem very good.


Iv'e not seen anyone use the EK fans except in AiO kits, I believe @derickwm is running like 30 of the 140mm Cougars in his Adri build,


----------



## VSG

Sorry man, soliciting a sale like that is against the ToS of this website.

The EK Asus R4BE monoblocks are out for sale on the EK website, soon with resellers I guess.


----------



## skupples

I think they forgot the rest of the circles.


----------



## BradleyW

I think the first two designs are the better out of the four variants.


----------



## siffonen

v
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dire Squirrel*
> 
> Has anyone tried these?: EK-FAN Silent 120-1600 RPM
> 
> They are made by GELID and look to have a design quite similar to some of theirs. I haven't been able to find a GELID branded fan that matches the design and specs precisely, so I assume these are either made specifically for EK or just not sold by GELID themselves.
> 
> Specs look pretty decent for the price (which is generally around 5-6 euros).
> 
> While the decibels are a bit on the high side, the noise characteristics seem very good.


I had 3 of those ek silent fans, and didnt have them long because of the noise they make


----------



## Destrto

I have a question about a couple of products.. The EK-FC Dual Terminal bridge. And the VGA Supremacy Bridge edition block. Could anyone show me how these mate to each other, and let me know if these are in fact the items I need in order to connect 2 VGA waterblocks together?


----------



## MedRed

derickwm, have you guys decided which z97 motherboards you are going to make blocks for yet?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dire Squirrel*
> 
> Has anyone tried these?: EK-FAN Silent 120-1600 RPM
> 
> They are made by GELID and look to have a design quite similar to some of theirs. I haven't been able to find a GELID branded fan that matches the design and specs precisely, so I assume these are either made specifically for EK or just not sold by GELID themselves.
> 
> Specs look pretty decent for the price (which is generally around 5-6 euros).
> 
> While the decibels are a bit on the high side, the noise characteristics seem very good.
> 
> 
> 
> I had 3 of those ek silent fans, and didnt have them long because of the noise they make
Click to expand...

I like the fans, they push pretty fantastic air, but your right, not exactly "silent" when blasting at 1600 RPMs.


----------



## JimmyWild

Hey y'all! Have had my EK-FC780s for a few months, just getting around to joining here.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Hey y'all! Have had my EK-FC780s for a few months, just getting around to joining here.


How you doin, Jimmy? Ever get your Black Edition?


----------



## gatesmarch

Hey guys, I have this pump and it's loud. I'm wondering if there's an adapter I could use to drop the voltage down a bit. I've been searching and have found threads that discuss putting resistors inline...I have no idea how I would calculate those things.


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> How you doin, Jimmy? Ever get your Black Edition?


Yuppers! I got it from Newegg eventually. System is up and running. Calling it 'done' cept i want to add a little more light to the left side of case. It's kinda unbalanced right now.

Been away from forums for awhile, but i'm back. Miss y'all!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have a question about a couple of products.. The EK-FC Dual Terminal bridge. And the VGA Supremacy Bridge edition block. Could anyone show me how these mate to each other, and let me know if these are in fact the items I need in order to connect 2 VGA waterblocks together?


They don't. The VGA Supremacy is a CSQ series block and uses CSQ bridges.
So something like the EK-FC Bridge DUAL Parallel CSQ would be what you are looking for.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> They don't. The VGA Supremacy is a CSQ series block and uses CSQ bridges.
> So something like the EK-FC Bridge DUAL Parallel CSQ would be what you are looking for.


That's what I'm asking about, actually.

I know which blocks they are. What I don't know is how they mate together, and if the EK-FC bridge and the "Bridge edition" of the VGA Supremacy water block are the right things to pair with each other.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have a question about a couple of products.. The EK-FC Dual Terminal bridge. And the VGA Supremacy Bridge edition block. Could anyone show me how these mate to each other, and let me know if these are in fact the items I need in order to connect 2 VGA waterblocks together?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> They don't. The VGA Supremacy is a CSQ series block and uses CSQ bridges.
> So something like the EK-FC Bridge DUAL Parallel CSQ would be what you are looking for.
Click to expand...

This.

Clean blocks will use the Fc "Terminal" bridges. CSQ Supremacy vga uses the "CSQ fc Bridges". If you have yet to buy the blocks, wait a bit for the new EK vga block. It uses the Fc Terminal bridges.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> derickwm, have you guys decided which z97 motherboards you are going to make blocks for yet?


As many as possible


----------



## wermad

Probably posted already:



https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This.
> 
> Clean blocks will use the Fc "Terminal" bridges. CSQ Supremacy vga uses the "CSQ fc Bridges". If you have yet to buy the blocks, wait a bit for the new EK vga block. It uses the Fc Terminal bridges.


Guys this is not what I'm asking...I know that part. That the clean block goes with clean terminal bridge and CSQ goes with CSQ..

I'm asking how do they physically connect together.

Someone explain to me, in detail, how this *LINK* physically connects to this *LINK*.

I see pictures of them separate, and pictures of them assembled together. But nothing in between, or any videos of them being attached.

The reason I'm asking for something so specific, is that I'm debating with myself on getting a pair of VGA Supremacy blocks for my GPU's. So that I will have something that is compatible with both my current GPU's and my future set I plan to have at some point. Something universal so that I can carry over the blocks to the new GPU setup without worrying about being stuck with a block that only fits a certain card like many of the full cover blocks.

I'm just confused currently, because I cannot find any pictures on how exactly the "Bridge edition" waterblocks physically connect with the separate matching bridge attachment.

EDIT: Please don't mention anything about Serial vs. Parallel pros and cons. I picked that one simply to help with explanations.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Guys this is not what I'm asking...I know that part. That the clean block goes with clean terminal bridge and CSQ goes with CSQ..
> 
> I'm asking how do they physically connect together.
> 
> Someone explain to me, in detail, how this *LINK* physically connects to this *LINK*.
> 
> I see pictures of them separate, and pictures of them assembled together. But nothing in between, or any videos of them being attached.
> 
> The reason I'm asking for something so specific, is that I'm debating with myself on getting a pair of VGA Supremacy blocks for my GPU's. So that I will have something that is compatible with both my current GPU's and my future set I plan to have at some point. Something universal so that I can carry over the blocks to the new GPU setup without worrying about being stuck with a block that only fits a certain card like many of the full cover blocks.
> 
> I'm just confused currently, because I cannot find any pictures on how exactly the "Bridge edition" waterblocks physically connect with the separate matching bridge attachment.
> 
> EDIT: Please don't mention anything about Serial vs. Parallel pros and cons. I picked that one simply to help with explanations.


Well, you asked if Terminals worked with Supremacy so it didn't seem that way.

Product page
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vga-supremacy-bridge-edition.html

Install manuals
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109805183.pdf

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109856437.pdf


----------



## Destrto

True, I didn't realize they were labeled differently when I was looking at them. I wasn't aware that the "Terminal" label in the title wasn't just part of the name, but that it also determined compatibility.

They connect together with screws. Ok, that helps.

Now, What about where the fitting holes would be, the ones that the CSQ bridge actually connects onto. What keeps that from leaking? Just a couple of O rings?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Guys this is not what I'm asking...I know that part. That the clean block goes with clean terminal bridge and CSQ goes with CSQ..
> 
> I'm asking how do they physically connect together.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Someone explain to me, in detail, how this *LINK* physically connects to this *LINK*.
> 
> I see pictures of them separate, and pictures of them assembled together. But nothing in between, or any videos of them being attached.
> 
> The reason I'm asking for something so specific, is that I'm debating with myself on getting a pair of VGA Supremacy blocks for my GPU's. So that I will have something that is compatible with both my current GPU's and my future set I plan to have at some point. Something universal so that I can carry over the blocks to the new GPU setup without worrying about being stuck with a block that only fits a certain card like many of the full cover blocks.
> 
> I'm just confused currently, because I cannot find any pictures on how exactly the "Bridge edition" waterblocks physically connect with the separate matching bridge attachment.
> 
> EDIT: Please don't mention anything about Serial vs. Parallel pros and cons. I picked that one simply to help with explanations
> 
> 
> .


The bridge comes with screws and o-rings. Two o-rings go on each vga block, then you screw each block down to the bridge w/ a screw. that's it.

I'm using one too:



edit: don't over tighten it btw.


----------



## Destrto

Thanks guys, that's exactly what I was after. Appreciate it.


----------



## 1rad3

http://www.ekwb.com/news/489/19/EK-introduces-ASUS-Rampage-IV-Black-Edition-AIO-water-cooling-solution/

nice!

edit: was so excited I didn't see i has already been posted


----------



## MedRed

aww... come on! not even a hint? I'd assume the ROG Asus boards. I'm I have a z87 Asus Maximus Extreme VI I was going to build, but thinking I'd rather do a gold theme on a z97 deluxe. I'd really like a board with water blocks for it.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Sorry man, soliciting a sale like that is against the ToS of this website.
> 
> The EK Asus R4BE monoblocks are out for sale on the EK website, soon with resellers I guess.


Funny you should mention these. I hadn't been in this thread in over 3 weeks, and just when I was wondering when these would come out, BAM!!! I may just get one, just for sake of staring at it in my spare time.

As much as I like the design of the monoblock with only one in and one out port for the CPU and NB/SB, it kind of takes away the fun of using so many fittings. to connect all of them together. Although, I am dying to see what it looks like on someone's rig.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thanks guys, that's exactly what I was after. Appreciate it.


One other thing I used the same configuration that you are planning when I had my non reference 7970's you need to make sure the screws are tight short of stripping them so the don't leak trust me you will understand what I mean when you tighten them.Also if it is 7970's you are putting them on you will need the copper shims for the cpu DIE


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> As many as possible


You mean as much Asus possible ? or will other brand will see some light for once ?


----------



## derickwm

Wooow someone woke up on the wrong side of the bed this morning.

If I recall both the GB Z87-OC & OC Force got blocks before the Asus Z87 boards did. Yet... They don't sell. Blocks for boards that don't sell aren't top priority. They fall into the "when we have time" priority.


----------



## skupples




----------



## VSG

A lot of z97 boards seem to have built-in water cooling this time around, even the MSI overclocker boards.


----------



## skupples

Maybe someone learned to just give us G1/4 threads instead of barbs & no anodized/plated/castrated aluminum


----------



## derickwm

Aluminum is cheaper


----------



## skupples




----------



## derickwm

If we designed motherboards they'd all have copper monoblocks


----------



## VSG

If..


----------



## derickwm

Maybe someday, who knows


----------



## VSG




----------



## skupples

I just had an EVGA motherboard flash back waking nightmare.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I just had an EVGA motherboard flash back waking nightmare.


Which board ?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If we designed motherboards they'd all have copper monoblocks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I just had an EVGA motherboard flash back waking nightmare.


EVGA z97/x99 Classified Hydrocopper Edition


----------



## skupples

*Shudders* EVGA keeps clammering for a successful ITX board.


----------



## VSG

To be fair, that z97 Stinger looks AMAZING. But I don't know how good it performs. I know the z87 Classified has rave reviews, but EVGA may be taking care of their flagship primarily during the rebuilding stage.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe someone learned to just give us G1/4 threads instead of barbs & no anodized/plated/castrated aluminum


Anodized aluminum is no more harmful to your loop than an unplated copper block!


----------



## p33k

Can anyone tell me the exact measurement between the two screw holes for the mounting bracket for the EK d5 pump (the one that mounts this EK-D5 Vario X-RES 140 (incl. pump). Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hulkuk*
> 
> in my pc i've installed the following
> 
> video cards running in sli
> 2 * 3831109868393 - EK-FC770 GTX DCII - Acetal+Nickel for ASUS design GeForce GTX 680 + GTX 770 DirectCU II series
> with 3831109868072 - EK-FC Terminal DUAL Serial 3-Slot
> 
> cpu block
> 3830046990808 - EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ Universal Water Block and changed the top to 3830046990938 - EK-TOP GREEN - Supremacy Clean CSQ, GreenPlexi Top for CPU Water Block
> 
> pump
> 45306 - Alphacool Repack - Dual Laing D5 - Dual 5.25 Bay Station
> 
> Rad
> 1 * Hardware Labs Black ICE Radiator360 - Black
> 1 * Hardware Labs Black ICE Radiator120 - Black
> both about 60mm
> 
> but about 4 weeks ago one of the video cards start getting really hot under load, so opened wow what i found so cleaned it out and started using it again but within about 2 weeks started turning the water a yellow color and started running hot again.
> 
> this is what i found again in the same video card, other video card is fine nothing happening at all,
> but the second card was added after and not at the same time
> 
> Videocard.jpg 2566k .jpg file


Did you try to remount the block?


----------



## Hulkuk

yes i cleaned it out refitted and it did the same in about 2 to 3 weeks. and inside the block is rotton and the plateing has gone and black and rusty inside,

think im going to remove from my system and get a replacement soon.

thanks Ray


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hulkuk*
> 
> yes i cleaned it out refitted and it did the same in about 2 to 3 weeks. and inside the block is rotton and the plateing has gone and black and rusty inside,
> 
> think im going to remove from my system and get a replacement soon.
> 
> thanks Ray


Ah, ok. Well the other thread was ok to post but this thread is better. We have a couple of EK reps that can assist. IF you are the original owner of the blocks, you can have it replaced via warranty. Are you in the US or a different country?

Btw, black streaks can happen. i just wipe them down. Can you see any exposed copper? When my blocks failed, temps were a little bit better (lol).


----------



## Hulkuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ah, ok. Well the other thread was ok to post but this thread is better. We have a couple of EK reps that can assist. IF you are the original owner of the blocks, you can have it replaced via warranty. Are you in the US or a different country?
> 
> Btw, black streaks can happen. i just wipe them down. Can you see any exposed copper? When my blocks failed, temps were a little bit better (lol).


was brought as a gift from an friend but he dont know where he brought it and he dont know alot about computers,
im in the UK








the main problem i had was where the rust depostes sat next to the plate for the front, which made the front plates rusty, the main block has dosiped build up and lots of blacking in the groves and looks like most of the plating has come away, and because i didnt think i would be able to get anything sorted with regards exchange i've got my dreamel out with wirebrush fitting and cleaned it up, but where the front plate had rust on it got the sand paper out and sanded it down and have almost removed it up,

but i've been looking at it and if i put it back in to the loop and thinking will it damage and thing else within the loop


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hulkuk*
> 
> was brought as a gift from an friend but he dont know where he brought it and he dont know alot about computers,
> im in the UK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the main problem i had was where the rust depostes sat next to the plate for the front, which made the front plates rusty, the main block has dosiped build up and lots of blacking in the groves and looks like most of the plating has come away, and because i didnt think i would be able to get anything sorted with regards exchange i've got my dreamel out with wirebrush fitting and cleaned it up, but where the front plate had rust on it got the sand paper out and sanded it down and have almost removed it up,
> 
> but i've been looking at it and if i put it back in to the loop and thinking will it damage and thing else within the loop


Still, the nickel flaking should leave bare copper which ek does sell as well. The dramatic change in temperatures for the one gpu seems more like a problem with that gpu. Try swapping the blocks between both cards to see if the other card works good w/ the block in question. As i mentioned, when my old ek nickel blocks failed, it exposed the copper base but it did not cause any temperature problems.

Btw, I'm sure you're aware any warranty is out of the question once the dremel gets involved







. Take pics if you can as the blocks may be still salvageable.


----------



## Hulkuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Still, the nickel flaking should leave bare copper which ek does sell as well. The dramatic change in temperatures for the one gpu seems more like a problem with that gpu. Try swapping the blocks between both cards to see if the other card works good w/ the block in question. As i mentioned, when my old ek nickel blocks failed, it exposed the copper base but it did not cause any temperature problems.
> 
> Btw, I'm sure you're aware any warranty is out of the question once the dremel gets involved
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Take pics if you can as the blocks may be still salvageable.


card is fine running on air at the moment,

sham i didnt get photos of the block before i fully cleaned it out as was really blocked up with the gunk and because the block was running in Parallel "just relisted i enter the incorrect one above" but because it was running in parallel as it was blocked the flow all went thought the top card, when i cleaned it out about 3 weeks ago was fine, but was ruuning it on Demineralised water which now have started using EK-Ekoolant UV Lime GREEN so hoping this will help make my cooling system last longer.

also my problem seemed to start after i tryed the Mayhems Aurora﻿ which was only in the system for about a week,

also when every i changed the water ive always change and installed new pipe work


----------



## wermad

Are you using a bridge or links/fittings to connect the blocks?


----------



## Hulkuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Are you using a bridge or links/fittings to connect the blocks?


im using one of them


in parallel


----------



## wermad

Check your cpu block, that's of the best places gunk can build up as well.

Try mounting the 2nd card with the block that gave you the higher temps. A little process of elimination can tell if you if ts a block issue or a gpu issue. Not sure how a block can go yield bad temps unless something else is causing the bad temps.


----------



## Jakusonfire

That looks very similar to this
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1740358

which is a result of mixing two different types of coolant and a sludge forms.
http://www.are.com.au/feat/techtalk/horror_pictures.htm


----------



## Hulkuk

yes the cpu block was where you could see the start of the block breaking down with plating flaks start building up then a few days after that happen the water would start turning a rust yellow and the longer it was left the worst it got and you could see the temps on the second card start to hot hotter.

but the first time this happened, there was no water changing colour untill the card started running really hot.

ok here was the first time i found this problem

which i cleaned it out and then checked all over blocks and clean as needed but nothing like this one just dis colouring.

this are the images after cleaning the block which was causing this but now sure what to do at this time

  

as you can see on the plate you can see the outline where the rust was building up and causing rust to restart again, well thats seems to be what was causing it.

can also see the block where i started cleaning it dont look as bad now at all.

current temps on the cards after playing grid2 max out.



current photos on system with second card on air at the moment.
 

im also aware that i left one of the fans out, helped with refitting of pipes to top rad a few days ago.


----------



## dervladimir

Some update soon: EK UH DDC V2, EK-CSQ 10/16, EK-DDC HH, EK-CS XT 360.


----------



## pennover

Hi, quick question: is it possible to use the EX X3 Mutiport Top accessory as an inlet like so:

_Pump->Rad->Block->Res(Top)->Pump_

and if so, will that setup produce any extra noise because of the water falling down into the reservoir? Or do I need to purchase an extra X3 res tube? Thanks!


----------



## Hulkuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That looks very similar to this
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1740358
> 
> which is a result of mixing two different types of coolant and a sludge forms.
> http://www.are.com.au/feat/techtalk/horror_pictures.htm


thats what is happening all the time with it.

when i first set up the system i only ever used demineralised water, my problem only ready started after i used Mayhems Aurora which did'nt seem to work well so cleaned the system thought and then went back to demineralised water after about a week and that when about a month or so after that was when my problem started


----------



## Asus11

Hello,

is this EK-FC terminal compatible with the 2 x EK TITAN SE GPU BLOCKs

EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel 3-Slot
EAN: 3831109868089

or

EK-FC Terminal DUAL Serial 3-Slot
EAN: 3831109868072

also is this good for size for the R4BE slots?

thanks!


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> is this EK-FC terminal compatible with the 2 x EK TITAN SE GPU BLOCKs
> 
> EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel 3-Slot
> EAN: 3831109868089
> 
> or
> 
> EK-FC Terminal DUAL Serial 3-Slot
> EAN: 3831109868072
> 
> also is this good for size for the R4BE slots?
> 
> thanks!






You want to get the TRI-SLI bridge for the R4BE + the corresponding blank. This will allow you to run 16x16x properly, as the second slot is only 8x (look @ the pins in & under the second slot, you will see they only go down half of the card) Make sure you get the proper corresponding blank
You can see what i'm talking about w/ the pins here in this picture.


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> You want to get the TRI-SLI bridge for the R4BE + the corresponding blank. This will allow you to run 16x16x properly, as the second slot is only 8x (look @ the pins in & under the second slot, you will see they only go down half of the card) Make sure you get the proper corresponding blank
> You can see what i'm talking about w/ the pins here in this picture.


the bridges are 3 slot though? buit for 2 cards? wouldn't it work? I looked at the 3 slot s card bridge and what would I put in the middle block it?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> the bridges are 3 slot though? buit for 2 cards? wouldn't it work? I looked at the 3 slot s card bridge and what would I put in the middle block it?


There are 4 slots between the two X16 slots, so
This
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-triple-serial-csq.html

With this in the middle
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-blank-serial.html

Or the Parallel versions of both.


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There are 4 slots between the two X16 slots, so
> This
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-triple-serial-csq.html
> 
> With this in the middle
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-blank-serial.html
> 
> Or the Parallel versions of both.


like this

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel.html

&

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-link-blank-parallel.html

which is better performance serial or parallel?

what what ive read on ek website it seems like parallel is?


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> like this
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel.html
> 
> &
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-link-blank-parallel.html
> 
> which is better performance serial or parallel?
> 
> what what ive read on ek website it seems like parallel is?


Parallel will divide the flow rate of your loop by the number of cards you have. A parallel config will also allow all cards to have close to the same input coolant temp. The serial will feed each card will the coolant from the previous card. In the end your last card in the loop will run hotter than the first. Overall you can get away with the parallel with no issue for 2-3 cards if you have around 1.5GPM+ (parallel 3 card setup will have around 0.5GPM through each card at a loop flow of 1.5GPM) of flow rate in your loop and not have negative effects on card temps.

This is also why EK makes the serial/parallel combo terminal for 4 GPU setups to keep the flow rate through 4 GPUs reasonable to maintain cooling performance.

I assume you are running 2 Titans, so either parallel or serial will give very similar results. The point in question comes more with 3 or 4 card setups and the loop design/flow rate.


----------



## gdubc

Did they change those parallel blanks recently? Mine are just little metal plates, nothing fancy like those linked.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> like this
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel.html
> 
> &
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-link-blank-parallel.html
> 
> which is better performance serial or parallel?
> 
> what what ive read on ek website it seems like parallel is?


That isn't the right Parallel blank ... that one is for older models

this is the one for terminals
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-blank-parallel.html


----------



## gdubc

Yeah, that's like mine. Had me worried for a sec....


----------



## marshymellows

are there any EK backplates that will fit on the evga 770?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> are there any EK backplates that will fit on the evga 770?


If it's a reference 770, it uses the same EK backplate as the Titan/780/780Ti, see here:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21974/ex-blc-1576/EK_GTX_Titan_780_780_Ti_770_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_RAM_Backplate_-_Black_EK-FC780_GTX_Ti_Backplate_-_Black.html?tl=g57c613s1932


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> are there any EK backplates that will fit on the evga 770?


http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/


----------



## bigbangSG

do ek sell EK-D5 Vario X-TOP - Plexi without the pump?


----------



## Frontside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> do ek sell EK-D5 Vario X-TOP - Plexi without the pump?


They do.
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/d5-series/ek-d5-x-top-csq-plexi.html


----------



## bigbangSG

sry i mean the clear version


----------



## failwheeldrive

I don't believe they do, unless they released a standalone version recently.


----------



## derickwm

The CSQ plexi version is sold separately. The clean plexi version for now can only be purchased with a pump.


----------



## Kokin

Bought the EK-FC R9-290X Original CSQ Nickel block + backplate and my CSQ single bridge came in today! Hoping to redo my whole loop once I'm done with finals next Monday.









Enjoy these crappy photos taken with a point and shoot for now.


----------



## pandrade11

Current build with all ek blocks and reservoirs still waiting for my last 780 to finish bends.. Hopefully all goes well when it comes to leak testing


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Bought the EK-FC R9-290X Original CSQ Nickel block + backplate and my CSQ single bridge came in today! Hoping to redo my whole loop once I'm done with finals next Monday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy these crappy photos taken with a point and shoot for now.


Thank you for that last picture, that's the only angle I have not been able to find of these types of bridges.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thank you for that last picture, that's the only angle I have not been able to find of these types of bridges.


Sure thing.


----------



## exyia

My (first ever) loop is almost complete except for O-rings on my FC Parallel Bridge (I didn't get any with the product, or maybe I did and lost them)

I ordered some new ones off frozencpu...still waiting on an update on when I'll get them since they'll be a direct order from EK.

But I noticed today....

The manual SAYS (in text) to use *14x1.5 o-rings*.

The picture on the same manual marks the o-rings as *13x1.5 o-rings*

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109856741.pdf

Which one is correct? Am I waiting on correctly sized o-rings or should I hurry and order 14x1.5 instead? PC is ready to start flow/leak testing and be completed, just waiting on these o-rings


----------



## Jimhans1

@derickwm I see that the new gtx750 block is in the EK store, is there gonna be a nickel-acetal version??


----------



## Nichismo

Got some new pics from the new phone


----------



## wermad

@Derick, your coolingconfig has the MSI 280X 6GB w/ the reference pcb. But looking at the card, its a bit wider. Found this pic of the 280x 6gb pcb:




http://bbs.chinadiy.com.cn/thread-6085-1-1.html

Here's what you have listed on the configurator:



reference 7970/280X layout.

The 3GB version does have the amd logo btw.


----------



## seross69

@derickwm any chance on releasing a BE monoblock that is all copper with clear top??


----------



## Malik




----------



## VSG

Lovely stuff as usual, Malik!


----------



## Pheozero

Yup. Malik's photos will always have a spot in my PC pron folder. Do you have a larger resolution of the 5th picture? I'd love to have it as a monitor background.

Anyways, I kinda found another EK 7970 CSQ block hidden in the back of my closet from when I was going to order another 7950 when before the mining stuff happened









Too bad I literally just received a R9 290 with a EK block yesterday.


----------



## dredeziel1

Hey EK peeps...Got my EK-Thermosphere x2 and my EK-FC Terminal Dual Parallel 3-Slot today...tried to install the waterblock on my EVGA 760GTX FTW and guess what...?..Wont Fit... The holes wont line up because it hit against the six pin power plug...Lets just say im a little upset at the moment...


----------



## wermad

The reference is a short pcb design I believe. The evga does have a longer pcb but they place the connectors at the same spot where the short pcb version locate its connectors. Did you measure btw before purchasing the blocks?


----------



## dredeziel1

EK said they work on all 600 and 700 series cards..Went on there word...dumb move on my part..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> EK said they work on all 600 and 700 series cards..Went on there word...dumb move on my part..


Block makers can be wrong. I spotted an error with the msi 280x 6gb they have listed in the coolingconfigurator.com. Best thing to do is research first as much as you can unless its specific to your cards. Ask ppl and check for pictures of your pcb. I knew the 280x 6gb had a difference pcb though the ek site said it was reference. I finally found a chinese site that did an unboxing and stripped the card down to the pcb. I could clearly see and confirm this model is not a reference pcb design as ek claims.

Also, EVGA and all other partners tbh, can and will alter the reference design and this may cause issues. XFX is notorious for doing this and cause a lot of of their cards to be incompatible with the blocks.

I would wait for Derick to reach out to you in this matter if the stated application is not compatible. Good luck


----------



## dredeziel1

Thx wermad.


----------



## dredeziel1

Let this be a lesson for all...pay closer attention to the details..i just checked the web site and my card is not listed the cooling config. Not EK's Fault..Its mine..Lesson learn..moving on..


----------



## VSG

Well, the Thermosphere being a new product you can likely sell it without a big loss.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> EK said they work on all 600 and 700 series cards..Went on there word...dumb move on my part..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Block makers can be wrong. I spotted an error with the msi 280x 6gb they have listed in the coolingconfigurator.com. Best thing to do is research first as much as you can unless its specific to your cards. Ask ppl and check for pictures of your pcb. I knew the 280x 6gb had a difference pcb though the ek site said it was reference. I finally found a chinese site that did an unboxing and stripped the card down to the pcb. I could clearly see and confirm this model is not a reference pcb design as ek claims.
> 
> Also, EVGA and all other partners tbh, can and will alter the reference design and this may cause issues. XFX is notorious for doing this and cause a lot of of their cards to be incompatible with the blocks.
> 
> I would wait for Derick to reach out to you in this matter if the stated application is not compatible. Good luck


normal for any company they make money not their fault.


----------



## pathfindercod

Anyone using one of the EK dual bay res with d5 vario pump? Is it working well for you? Any issues or better choices? I'm having a hard time deciding between one of these and a standard pump/res?


----------



## VSG

If you have the space for it, go for a tube/cylinder res. It makes filling/bleeding easier.


----------



## pathfindercod

I am looking at moving into a caselabs mercury s8 case (horizontal mb tray). I was planning 3 360 rads from alpha with the multiple ports. Putting one in the basement with a bitspower valve and quick disconnect for a drain line. I'm having a heck of a time planning this out. I'd like a tube res but just know how or where is mount it.


----------



## VSG

You might find it easier to figure out once you do a mock drawing of your components on the case.


----------



## pathfindercod

Thank you geggeg, appreciate the info and ideas.


----------



## VSG

No problem, man. I got great help here when I started out myself so just passing it on now.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Did they change those parallel blanks recently? Mine are just little metal plates, nothing fancy like those linked.


I'm still waiting for EK to consider making a plexi terminal bridge so I can buy another Titan and link my two non CSQ blocks together... @derickwm?

I'm not big on doing the crystal links thing. I'd much rather have an acrylic terminal bridge that I can polish up to be crystal clear, lowfat style.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> normal for any company they make money not their fault.


Not blaming anyone. Mistakes and decisions can happen, on several sides of this market. My best advised is just research it first as best as possible. I was gonna ask for an msi 280X 6GB to replace my Lightning (tahiti) but after some more research the reference block does not fit this model. I'm gonna push for a 290x but I'll settle for a 290 if they're out of lightnings.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey EK peeps...Got my EK-Thermosphere x2 and my EK-FC Terminal Dual Parallel 3-Slot today...tried to install the waterblock on my EVGA 760GTX FTW and guess what...?..Wont Fit... The holes wont line up because it hit against the six pin power plug...Lets just say im a little upset at the moment...


I'm sure you have found out by now, but reference 680 waterblocks will fit. Not sure about reference 770 though.


----------



## dredeziel1

Damn good to know..thx...crap..more money to spend now..life of a watercooler..


----------



## VSG

Took you long enough to realize that


----------



## dredeziel1

ummmm..yeap..


----------



## Kokin

There's always money to be spent.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm sure you have found out by now, but reference 680 waterblocks will fit. Not sure about reference 770 though.


Reference 770 block should be the 780 block, that's what fit my reference 770s


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm sure you have found out by now, but reference 680 waterblocks will fit. Not sure about reference 770 though.


But surely if the Thermosphere will not fit then the 680 block couldn't either


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> But surely if the Thermosphere will not fit then the 680 block couldn't either
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you have found out by now, but reference 680 waterblocks will fit. Not sure about reference 770 though.
Click to expand...

It won't....in fact no solution exist for this card except the EK-VGA Supremacy which is now EOL with the realease of the EK-Thermosphere



The only really compatible waterblock for this card is from another company...here


----------



## sinnedone

OK, I have what might be a dumb question. If the r9 290 and 290x don't need crossfire bridges, why do the backplates still have cutouts for them?


----------



## BradleyW

Just redone my EK based loop!

Before:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






After:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> But surely if the Thermosphere will not fit then the 680 block couldn't either


I ran reference 680 blocks on my 670 FTW editions for quite some time, as the 670FTW is on the 680 PCB.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Reference 770 block should be the 780 block, that's what fit my reference 770s


Thought so, this is why I said something.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It won't....in fact no solution exist for this card except the EK-VGA Supremacy which is now EOL with the realease of the EK-Thermosphere
> 
> 
> 
> The only really compatible waterblock for this card is from another company...http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p16077_Alphacool-NexXxoS-NVXP-Nvidia-GTX760---Edelstahl-poliert---
> 
> 
> Schwarz.html]here[/URL]






I must have been really tired last night. I thought he said 670 FTW









alphacool is the only option.


----------



## gdubc

The pics on *videocardz* of the 770 hof...


----------



## SaintHeretic

Perhaps this is a dumb question, But for the build I am doing I have the EVGA GTX 780Ti Kingpin Classified. I am looking to get an EK Waterblock, perhaps the EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Nickel. But I am unsure as to whether or not the kingpin edition is supported like a normal 780Ti. There is an addition 8pin power block on it that doesn't seem to be on the normal 780Ti's. Has anyone worked with this card yet?


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaintHeretic*
> 
> Perhaps this is a dumb question, But for the build I am doing I have the EVGA GTX 780Ti Kingpin Classified. I am looking to get an EK Waterblock, perhaps the EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Nickel. But I am unsure as to whether or not the kingpin edition is supported like a normal 780Ti. There is an addition 8pin power block on it that doesn't seem to be on the normal 780Ti's. Has anyone worked with this card yet?


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-titan-series/ek-fc780-gtx-classy-acetal-nickel.html

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109868492

a standard 780 Ti won't work.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaintHeretic*
> 
> Perhaps this is a dumb question, But for the build I am doing I have the GTX 780Ti Kingpin Classified. I am looking to get an EK Waterblock, perhaps the EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Nickel. But I am unsure as to whether or not the kingpin edition is supported like a normal 780Ti. There is an addition 8pin power block on it that doesn't seem to be on the normal 780Ti's. Has anyone worked with this card yet?


You need the EK GTX 780 Classified block, normal GTX 780, not TI. That is the block that'll fit the Classy 780, Classy 780 TI, and Kingpin.

*http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc780-gtx-classy-acetal-nickel.html*


----------



## SaintHeretic

wow you guys are fast.. looks like I am in the right place for my first water cooling build. At best I am shooting for not completely screwing it all up royally, just partially. I am going to do a complete EK cooling system and am ready to purchase.. just want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before submitting. Thank you for the quick help response


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaintHeretic*
> 
> Perhaps this is a dumb question, But for the build I am doing I have the EVGA GTX 780Ti Kingpin Classified. I am looking to get an EK Waterblock, perhaps the EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Nickel. But I am unsure as to whether or not the kingpin edition is supported like a normal 780Ti. There is an addition 8pin power block on it that doesn't seem to be on the normal 780Ti's. Has anyone worked with this card yet?


No, the Classy's are way bigger than the regular 780(ti)'s so you would need this block:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc780-gtx-classy-acetal-nickel.html

edit: aaaaannndd double ninja'd


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It won't....in fact no solution exist for this card except the EK-VGA Supremacy which is now EOL with the realease of the EK-Thermosphere
> 
> 
> 
> The only really compatible waterblock for this card is from another company...here


I don't think the vga supremacy is EOL. Just the bridge edition which the thermosphere replaces. I hope I'm right because the vga supremacy fits almost all cards.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaintHeretic*
> 
> Perhaps this is a dumb question, But for the build I am doing I have the EVGA GTX 780Ti Kingpin Classified. I am looking to get an EK Waterblock, perhaps the EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Nickel. But I am unsure as to whether or not the kingpin edition is supported like a normal 780Ti. There is an addition 8pin power block on it that doesn't seem to be on the normal 780Ti's. Has anyone worked with this card yet?


Ya the block doesn't extend close to the power connectors so it's not an issue. The pcb changes that were done don't conflict with the block and it fits great. I am referring to the waterblock for the 780/780 ti classy's. the reference 780 ti block will not fit.


----------



## SaintHeretic

This is great news.. now if the EK-FC780 GTX Classy - Nickel was not out of stock it would be even better news lol.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I don't think the vga supremacy is EOL. Just the bridge edition which the thermosphere replaces. I hope I'm right because the vga supremacy fits almost all cards.


I think you're correct my bad


----------



## Minseok

I own a EK D5 X-RES Top 100 w/ D5 Vario Pump and have been looking for a solution to mount it better in my case. I modded my C70 case where I removed the HDD cages and replaced the front with a 360 rad.

At the moment, I have it mounted next to the motherboard by the graphics card, but am trying to find a way to perhaps mount on the bottom of the case. I've seen one case mod where the person used these l-shaped brackets, but I can't seem to find ones like the one he did.

Does anyone know of a way for me to get it mounted somewhere else?

Picture references:
http://i.imgur.com/KuLD05h.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/fpsd4FA.jpg

The reason I'm trying to do this is because it blocks way for a second GPU which I plan on getting pretty soon. I'll be dismantling everything and adding in better compression fittings. Also plan on switching some of the loop routes, because it's ugly.


----------



## Pheozero

Get one of these: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8797/ex-pmp-79/UNDesigns_Z2_Pump_Bracket_-_120mm_Fan_Mount.html
and mount it off of your front fans.


----------



## Minseok

Thanks, that's just wonderful.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minseok*
> 
> I own a EK D5 X-RES Top 100 w/ D5 Vario Pump and have been looking for a solution to mount it better in my case. I modded my C70 case where I removed the HDD cages and replaced the front with a 360 rad.
> 
> At the moment, I have it mounted next to the motherboard by the graphics card, but am trying to find a way to perhaps mount on the bottom of the case. I've seen one case mod where the person used these l-shaped brackets, but I can't seem to find ones like the one he did.
> 
> Does anyone know of a way for me to get it mounted somewhere else?
> 
> Picture references:
> http://i.imgur.com/KuLD05h.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/fpsd4FA.jpg
> 
> The reason I'm trying to do this is because it blocks way for a second GPU which I plan on getting pretty soon. I'll be dismantling everything and adding in better compression fittings. Also plan on switching some of the loop routes, because it's ugly.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Get one of these: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8797/ex-pmp-79/UNDesigns_Z2_Pump_Bracket_-_120mm_Fan_Mount.html
> and mount it off of your front fans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minseok*
> 
> Thanks, that's just wonderful.


There is also these: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9611/ex-pmp-166/UNDesigns_525_Bay_Rad_Bracket_Set_-_Black_Powder_Coat_UNRBR1-BLK.html

They can be used to mount tons of different things, not just rads!!


----------



## Minseok

Thanks, this is what I was originally looking for, but I think the first choice would be best. Won't have to drill on the bottom.


----------



## Jimhans1

Cool, glad to help, and glad you found a solution!


----------



## Malik

More photos from me


----------



## wermad

If you're "coerced" to get the non bridge version of the Supremacy vga, Swiftech does make some universal bridges if you must have a bridge.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> More photos from me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Beautifulness!


As always, all your photographs are amazing, gonna use them as wallpaper!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> More photos from me


Lovely!


----------



## VSG

Malik, have you made any post capture adjustments to the coolant color in the block? If not, can you please share how you got that color?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> @derickwm I see that the new gtx750 block is in the EK store, is there gonna be a nickel-acetal version??


Yus.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @Derick, your coolingconfig has the MSI 280X 6GB w/ the reference pcb. But looking at the card, its a bit wider. Found this pic of the 280x 6gb pcb:
> 
> reference 7970/280X layout.
> 
> The 3GB version does have the amd logo btw.


Fixed. Cheers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> @derickwm any chance on releasing a BE monoblock that is all copper with clear top??


Nah. Already have 10 SKUs for the R4BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Did they change those parallel blanks recently? Mine are just little metal plates, nothing fancy like those linked.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still waiting for EK to consider making a plexi terminal bridge so I can buy another Titan and link my two non CSQ blocks together... @derickwm?
> 
> I'm not big on doing the crystal links thing. I'd much rather have an acrylic terminal bridge that I can polish up to be crystal clear, lowfat style.
Click to expand...

We've been considering it for a while. Just working out the kinks. Make sure to use @derickwm with linked text so I get an email 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> More photos from me


:drool:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> OK, I have what might be a dumb question. If the r9 290 and 290x don't need crossfire bridges, why do the backplates still have cutouts for them?
> 
> We had an ES card first with old crossfire bridges and then they remove it from the final boards. we didn't want to change the backplates half way into selling them not to piss off customers who would then end up with mix-matches batckplates.


----------



## Kokin

Got my R9 290X CSQ Nickel Plexi block and backplate today! Very happy with the block, though I'm disappointed with the QA of the backplate since there were scratches on both sides. I'll be done with my final exams this coming Monday, so I can put these to use then.




These two photos show the visible scratches on the outside and inside of the backplate. I would let the inner side scratches slide, but it makes me wonder how the scratch on the outside passed EK's QA check.





More photos of the Link + Single Bridge, but I won't boggle my post with it unless the reader is interested. Click the spoiler below:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## derickwm

Apologies man. Contact the reseller and they'll work with you on that.


----------



## Kokin

Thanks for replying. Its from FrozenCPU, so I'll contact them.


----------



## niketpla

finished my loop finally


----------



## skupples

Very nice!


----------



## snef

some Final Pics

with a lot of EK products


----------



## VSG

Amazing!

Edit: Hey turns out Derick was right after all, who would have thunk it?



Comes with a single slot I/O bracket too! More pics:


----------



## BradleyW

Does the EK Top for the D5 pump increase performance of the pump? Does it increase noise or cavitation potential?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Does the EK Top for the D5 pump increase performance of the pump? Does it increase noise or cavitation potential?


----------



## skupples

cavitation normally isn't an issue for DDC/D5. Not sure the last time someone posted a pic of a cavitation damaged impeller.

I'm trying my hardest to cause cavitation damage to this triple-DDC. Will report on it in a few months.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some Final Pics
> 
> with a lot of EK products
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Snef, beautiful as always - well done!


----------



## khemist

I've noticed this problem after a few months of running with d.i. water and nickel cpu and gpu blocks.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've noticed this problem after a few months of running with d.i. water and nickel cpu and gpu blocks.


Make a Ticket at EK's support website, pretty sure they'll sort it for you.


----------



## skupples

Need better pictures. No anti-corrosive? No anti-bacterial/growth? Rip off the top, & get less fuzzy pictures.


----------



## khemist

Need to know the correct screwdriver i need to unsrew over the nickel bit, the plexi and nickel bit are different sizes.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Need to know the correct screwdriver i need to unsrew over the nickel bit, the plexi and nickel bit are different sizes.


Do you mean the smaller screws on the Stainless steel plate?

I think from memory the larger ones use 2.5mm allen keys and the smaller might be 2mm


----------



## khemist

Yeah, ok thanks!.


----------



## wermad

How wide is a D5 + ek csq top? (Front to back)?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Amazing!
> 
> Comes with a single slot I/O bracket too! More pics:


That is sooo sexy looking. See EK, Nice full length acrylic. The 290/290x need this in nickel.









If I had the money I would definitely get me one of those. Who knows, maybe in a year when the new stuff comes out.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How wide is a D5 + ek csq top? (Front to back)?


About 70mm.


----------



## wermad

Thank you sir


----------



## skupples




----------



## Kimir

You're welcome.

While I'm in the process of posting picture in my build log, I might as well post them here since it's full on EK.
And I'll put that in watercooling club as well, I might get some useful suggestion/input.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Work in progress...
> 
> Done flushing the radiators and sleeving the D5 last night, did the plumbing today.
> Also started to wire the Aquaero 6 with fan splitters and temp sensors. I will receive the PSU tomorrow, will have to wire all of this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In before "why all the Koolance quick connect?" I want to be able to disassemble any part of the rig easily. The most important part if being able to remove the graphic cards from the mobo and the mobo tray from the case. Everything else is a plus and since I have those QDC in stock now, might as well use them.
> The circuit is as follow (I know it does not matter as the temp will equalize in the system but whatever):
> Res → pump → front 240mm → lower 480mm → lower 360mm → flow meter → graphic cards → MB → Top 480mm → CPU → res.
> 
> Comment/input welcome before I fill this up.


----------



## Malik

grEEn Parvum


----------



## GringoKillah1

*Malik*
Wow, dat collor....







In life its look the same?


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> *Malik*
> Wow, dat collor....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In life its look the same?


Yep


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> grEEn Parvum
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is there any way to get this in a higher resolution? I'd love to have this as a wallpaper.


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Is there any way to get this in a higher resolution? I'd love to have this as a wallpaper.


Which res ?


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Which res ?


1080P if you will.


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> 1080P if you will.


Here you have: LINK


----------



## GringoKillah1

*Malik*
oooo my Ktulhu! Love dat color, really... Seems like i have new wallpaper!


----------



## Pheozero

Very much appreciated sir


----------



## VSG

Malik, now you really have to tell me how you got that color


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Malik, now you really have to tell me how you got that color


Simple, i bought EKWB Lemon Green Liquid


----------



## gdubc

Very nice, Malik.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Simple, i bought EKWB Lemon Green Liquid


Well, that was easy! +1


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> grEEn Parvum
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome build and photos Malik!


----------



## BradleyW

That's the good thing with Mini ATX WC builds, you can make them super neat and compact.


----------



## Vlada011

Why EK didn't launch full cover block for 700 Classified series as for ASUS and MSI cards?
Because EK favorise ASUS. I really non stop back on that question, somehow non sense to leave good part on the back of card uncovered.
Maybe because of that I will order buy other CPU block, fittings, res, radiators and pump top.
They didn't try to make even block for Kingpin Edition cards, but for ASUS every model need own special waterblock.

MSI










ASUS










EVGA


----------



## VSG

Why would anyone make a new block if the existing one was compatible with the card? Also, your definition of full cover and theirs is different.


----------



## Kimir

Wat? There is a block for the 780ti classy/KPE card.


----------



## Pheozero

What are you even talking about? EK has a block for the Classified?


----------



## BradleyW

I've got EK FC 290X blocks on my 290X's and I have a 18c difference between VRM 1 and VRM 2. Normal?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I've got EK FC 290X blocks on my 290X's and I have a 18c difference between VRM 1 and VRM 2. Normal?


Yes that is completely normal

In regard to the Classy block not being 'full cover' ... all it means when blocks are full length is some extra plastic covering components without providing any extra cooling. In fact it can raise temps because there is less air circulation around the PCB. For the Classy block in particular EK consulted with EVGA during the design and were told that cooling the extra memory VRM on the end was pointless because it does not even get hot.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> In regard to the Classy block not being 'full cover' ... all it means when blocks are full length is some extra plastic covering components without providing any extra cooling. In fact it can raise temps because there is less air circulation around the PCB


This. If the area is not cooled by the block, I'd rather have nothing on it, at least I can put vram heat spreader and blow air on them.


----------



## BradleyW

Cheers Jak!
+1


----------



## Pheozero

Speaking of ASUS favoritism







, what's up with those Z97 blocks?


----------



## lowfat

EK favours Asus because consumers obviously favour Asus. If the majority of enthusiasts quit buying Asus boards and only bought from Gigabyte I would imagine you would find EK building more blocks for them.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> EK favours Asus because consumers obviously favour Asus. If the majority of enthusiasts quit buying Asus boards and only bought from Gigabyte I would imagine you would find EK building more blocks for them.


For mainboards sure, but I'm pretty sure that EVGA is the preferred GPU vendor world wide. And if gigabyte would take some steps to increase their quality control, that could be a possibility to usurp asus in the mobo market


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> For mainboards sure, but I'm pretty sure that EVGA is the preferred GPU vendor world wide. And if gigabyte would take some steps to increase their quality control, that could be a possibility to usurp asus in the mobo market


Asus has terrible customer support yet somehow people still buy their boards.









I am willing to bet EK sells more DirectCU blocks compared to Classy / Lightning blocks.


----------



## Jimhans1

I don't consider the Direct CU actual competition to the classy or lightning though personally. I can say, I've never owned an Asus GPU, and probably never will. And I bet EK sells more nVidia reference blocks than those three combined also.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I don't consider the Direct CU actual competition to the classy or lightning though personally. I can say, I've never owned an Asus GPU, and probably never will. And I bet EK sells more nVidia reference blocks than those three combined also.


I have a 7970dc2, they did one heck of a sweet job on the pcb. 1.2\1.5 gets it 1200/1800, 1.3\1.7 gets it 1300/2000.


----------



## wermad

Matrix is to asus what Lightning and Classified are for MSI and EVGA (respectively).

Anyone have a 290/290x with the long block design?


----------



## Jimhans1

That's true of the Matrix, but they do make DCU II that are not matrix, and that's what I was referring to in my post.


----------



## braincracking

Joining the club, better late than never!
Love the new shinies and love the new temps


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Amazing!
> 
> Edit: Hey turns out Derick was right after all, who would have thunk it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Comes with a single slot I/O bracket too! More pics:


Definitely not me 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> grEEn Parvum
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love you. I mean it. I love it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Why EK didn't launch full cover block for 700 Classified series as for ASUS and MSI cards?
> Because EK favorise ASUS. I really non stop back on that question, somehow non sense to leave good part on the back of card uncovered.
> Maybe because of that I will order buy other CPU block, fittings, res, radiators and pump top.
> They didn't try to make even block for Kingpin Edition cards, but for ASUS every model need own special waterblock.
> 
> MSI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ASUS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA


I'm sorry, what? 780 Classy, 780 Classy Ti, and 780 Ti KPE all have blocks. Have you seen how big that PCB is? Can't exactly add extra acetal on the sides. It's how it is. Maybe next time around.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> EK favours Asus because consumers obviously favour Asus. If the majority of enthusiasts quit buying Asus boards and only bought from Gigabyte I would imagine you would find EK building more blocks for them.


^


----------



## szeged

I wish msi publicly released 780ti lightnings, I'd have tri sli 780tis, one matrix one lightning and one kingpin for sure lol.


----------



## VSG

Then you would tear your hair out trying to fit together those three cards into your loop.


----------



## szeged

I'm just going through withdrawal I think, I haven't gotten a new gpu in over a month now lol.


----------



## VSG

Go buy a 8800gtx off eBay and practice LN2 overclocking then.


----------



## Vlada011

I'm joke little, I'll decide, no more changing.

Coolestream PE 240 x2
Supremacy Clean CSQ
D5 Vario X-Top with Lowara pump included
EK D5 Cover kit Black
EK compression fittings
Primochill tube new without problems with plasticizer
Bitspower Tank Z 100
Thermosphere or fullcover block for 780 Classy

Only I didn't decide about 10/13mm vs 10/16mm tubing size and fittings.
I like and EK Dual Bay reservoir but this option give little more variants if I want to change something in future, to separate pump and reservoir or similar thing. But in my case at this moment Dual Bay would be much easier. With dual bay I would pass about 100e cheaper.


----------



## szeged

Trying to find a good 7970/280x dcuII off eBay for a decent price to have some fun with but so far no dice.


----------



## VSG

Go older!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Even though my loop is already completed, I ordered one these anyway, along with a couple of RAM blocks... I may sit on the monoblock for a while before I decide to switch out my current north/south bridges though. Honestly though, I like the complexity and design of the acrylic tubing and fittings on each separate block, which makes each build unique. But at the same time, this monoblock covers everything, looks great, and probably looks kick-ass when lit up with a couple of LEDs... geesh this hobby is so addictive.


----------



## DuraN1

Haven't read this thread in a while, wheres the Ascendancy?


----------



## skupples

uote name="DuraN1" url="/t/993624/ek-club/4730_10#post_22292105"]Haven't read this thread in a while, wheres the Ascendancy?







[/quote]

In a place called never never land. Click your heals together 6 times, do a hand stand, sing the maqqarina, do 15 jumping jacks, then last but not least sing the Latvian national anthem and boom it will appear in this realm.

In all seriousness though... I hope they retain powering it with pcie cables. That will allow it to power even more stuff than the Aquaero 6, and hopefully they already know about the different levels of wonky pwm


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DuraN1*
> 
> Haven't read this thread in a while, wheres the Ascendancy?


Last time I asked Derick, he told me that if all goes well it would be during the summer.


----------



## Kimir

Ek compression fittings


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How wide is a D5 + ek csq top? (Front to back)?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Even though my loop is already completed, I ordered one these anyway, along with a couple of RAM blocks... I may sit on the monoblock for a while before I decide to switch out my current north/south bridges though. Honestly though, I like the complexity and design of the acrylic tubing and fittings on each separate block, which makes each build unique. But at the same time, this monoblock covers everything, looks great, and probably looks kick-ass when lit up with a couple of LEDs... geesh this hobby is so addictive.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah those look amazing. I especially love the solid black acetal version.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Yeah those look amazing. I especially love the solid black acetal version.


My dilemma is that they kind of take away from the creative process of making a motherboard loop, because you go from multiple ports to just a couple (6 if you include RAM blocks). And really, I think that's one of the main reasons why I decided to get the RAM blocks this time around - to maintain a little of that creative control, even if it's just connecting both RAM blocks to the monoblock. If anything though, it should certainly make for a good conversational piece in the water cooling thread.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> My dilemma is that they kind of take away from the creative process of making a motherboard loop, because you go from multiple ports to just a couple (6 if you include RAM blocks). And really, I think that's one of the main reasons why I decided to get the RAM blocks this time around - to maintain a little of that creative control, even if it's just connecting both RAM blocks to the monoblock. If anything though, it should certainly make for a good conversational piece in the water cooling thread.


I'm torn by that too. However once coolant is flowing through that massive block it'll all be worth it (assuming you got the clear plexi you attached a pic of). As for the black one, it just looks mean.


----------



## cky2k6

Got my monoblock, but no m4 washers in the package


----------



## VSG

Mind taking some pictures for us? Which variant did you end up with? I would love to know how the monoblock compared with your DD M6 block if you were using it so far.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm torn by that too. However once coolant is flowing through that massive block it'll all be worth it (assuming you got the clear plexi you attached a pic of). As for the black one, it just looks mean.


Hah, and that's the bitter sweetness about the acrylic version too when it comes to my build. Simply because I'm using colorless distilled water only. Much like the issue I had with using the Mayhems Aurora 2, I need to keep the water inside the loop clear so that the white flow indicator wheels will remain visible in the front of the case.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Oh snap, I just realized something about my order today. Aren't the Monarch RAM DIMM module covers incompatible with Dominator Platinums?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Oh snap, I just realized something about my order today. Aren't the Monarch RAM DIMM module covers incompatible with Dominator Platinums?


No, you just remove the heatsinks that came on the ram and replace them with the covers.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> No, you just remove the heatsinks that came on the ram and replace them with the covers.


That's what I thought, but someone in the water cooling thread said otherwise. Maybe they were just misinformed.


----------



## Jakusonfire

The platinum RAM is extra tall with the LED's on the PCB so the Monarch RAM modules don't reach down to fully cover the chips.


----------



## Jimhans1

Id still do it, not like WC the ram is actually gonna help in the first place really.


----------



## GringoKillah1

Guys, why *EKWB Top for 2 DDC* disappeared from EK-Shop?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The platinum RAM is extra tall with the LED's on the PCB so the Monarch RAM modules don't reach down to fully cover the chips.


So then what do you suggest as an alternative to the Monarch's?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Id still do it, not like WC the ram is actually gonna help in the first place really.


This is very true... Which is why it's taken me this long to jump on that band wagon and finally do it.


----------



## VSG

Getting the heatsinks off the Dom Plats without damaging the chips/LEDs is very difficult. I did try but gave up soon.


----------



## skupples

I've heard of people soaking them in high proof rubbing alcohol + heat gun.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Getting the heatsinks off the Dom Plats without damaging the chips/LEDs is very difficult. I did try but gave up soon.


You were heating them up w/ a heatgun?


----------



## VSG

Tried both with and without. I am sure it is possible and I could have likely done it, but I decided not to and just got the Corsair light bar upgrade kit to run the sticks on air.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I've also heard stories of people baking them in the oven at 250 degrees for several minutes, then slowly removing the heatsinks while the glue still hot.

@derickwm - what method of heatsink removal do you recommend?


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Why EK didn't launch full cover block for 700 Classified series as for ASUS and MSI cards?
> Because EK favorise ASUS. I really non stop back on that question, somehow non sense to leave good part on the back of card uncovered.
> Maybe because of that I will order buy other CPU block, fittings, res, radiators and pump top.
> They didn't try to make even block for Kingpin Edition cards, but for ASUS every model need own special waterblock.
> 
> MSI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ASUS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA


they didnt really make a dedicated block for ASUS' 770 DCII, it uses the same block and backplate as their GTX 680, and they dont fit nearly as flush as most other blocks.


----------



## wermad

I used a heat gun to warm up my Vengeance sinks. Then just slowly pried them open.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Why EK didn't launch full cover block for 700 Classified series as for ASUS and MSI cards?
> Because EK favorise ASUS. I really non stop back on that question, somehow non sense to leave good part on the back of card uncovered.
> Maybe because of that I will order buy other CPU block, fittings, res, radiators and pump top.
> They didn't try to make even block for Kingpin Edition cards, but for ASUS every model need own special waterblock.
> 
> MSI
> 
> 
> 
> they didnt really make a dedicated block for ASUS' 770 DCII, it uses the same block and backplate as their GTX 680, and they dont fit nearly as flush as most other blocks.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry, do you mean this block? And this one?


----------



## Asus11

what do you guys reckon is the best way to mount/locate a EK D5 pump with res in a corsair 750d/760t?

need to order parts soooooooon !









http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-d5-vario-x-top-plexi-including-water-cooling-pump

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-res-x3-400-reservoir

unless you guys have a better idea?


----------



## GringoKillah1

*derickwm*

Maybe you know?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Guys, why *EKWB Top for 2 DDC* disappeared from EK-Shop?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> *derickwm*
> 
> Maybe you know?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Guys, why *EKWB Top for 2 DDC* disappeared from EK-Shop?
Click to expand...

Choice 1 Choice 2


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> what do you guys reckon is the best way to mount/locate a EK D5 pump with res in a corsair 750d/760t?
> 
> need to order parts soooooooon !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-d5-vario-x-top-plexi-including-water-cooling-pump
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-res-x3-400-reservoir
> 
> unless you guys have a better idea?


You'll never realistically fit a 400mm res into a case the size of a 750d. The 250 would be the largest and even that is on the verge of being impractical unless the rest of the loop is designed around it.


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You'll never realistically fit a 400mm res into a case the size of a 750d. The 250 would be the largest and even that is on the verge of being impractical unless the rest of the loop is designed around it.


yeah i do need some guidance I have everything thought out expect for the res/pump

this is my second time watercooling, first time was with a EK kit.. lol

what about somthing like this? it still looks abit too big right?










which solution you reckon is best suited for my space etc

thanks


----------



## wermad

^^^ CSQ acetal luv









Its funny how ppl complain a full-cover block is not full-cover because it doesn't cover up the entire pcb









A full-cover block implies the block covers the core, vram, and vrm. I doesn't mean it has to go aesthetically too far and cover the entire pcb. And as Derick pointed out, they weight is really no necessary and not all models will get this treatment.

Personally, I don't mind since the card will most likely hang up-side-down. Might as well invest in a backplate for visual allure


----------



## szeged

personally i enjoy seeing the high end components on gpu pcbs, dem asus dcu2/matrix pcbs are definitely pr0n for me.


----------



## Asus11

personally for me I like full cover blocks ie Titan se, I just dont like pcb with caps sticking out the side hehe the pcb is skinny as hell and doesn't look beast


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> yeah i do need some guidance I have everything thought out expect for the res/pump
> 
> this is my second time watercooling, first time was with a EK kit.. lol
> 
> what about somthing like this? it still looks abit too big right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which solution you reckon is best suited for my space etc
> 
> thanks


That is a 250. It is a workable size as long as the loop is designed to work with it, ie. room for the pump underneath it. How big a res you can fit depends a lot on whether you want to keep any internal HDD space and the overall loop design


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That is a 250. It is a workable size as long as the loop is designed to work with it, ie. room for the pump underneath it. How big a res you can fit depends a lot on whether you want to keep any internal HDD space and the overall loop design


im going to have exact same rads as shown in that pic & have that HD cage too.. now looking at it im thinking how the hell im going to route that second rad lol

I think ill look for a ek D5 combo, but isnt the variable speed D5 better?


----------



## Kimir

Almost done with my new rig.


----------



## szeged

two tone caselabs is sexy as hell.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> two tone caselabs is sexy as hell.


I second that!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> im going to have exact same rads as shown in that pic & have that HD cage too.. now looking at it im thinking how the hell im going to route that second rad lol
> 
> I think ill look for a ek D5 combo, but isnt the variable speed D5 better?


The EK combo's are D5 varios


----------



## DuraN1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Last time I asked Derick, he told me that if all goes well it would be during the summer.


If all goes well


----------



## GringoKillah1

*derickwm*

I mean without pump, just Top.


----------



## exyia

first loop ever



















I have to say....the finish on the EK waterblocks is outstanding. I work with machine shops everyday in the oil and gas industry, as well as in the car racing scene....the quality and finish on the EK stuff is the best work I've seen on.....anything....









4930k
titan tri-sli

cooled by 360+360+240+240+240. so far gpu temps don't go above ~44C on heaven or valley on 3x1 surround


----------



## dcatvn

Guys...

Will the EK-FC-R9-290x (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-rev-2-0.html) works with Asus 290X Direct CUII?

Asus exchanged 290x Direct CUII for me when I rma my 290. So now I am worry that this waterblock won't work with the new card, but I am not complaining


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcatvn*
> 
> Guys...
> 
> Will the EK-FC-R9-290x (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-rev-2-0.html) works with Asus 290X Direct CUII?
> 
> Asus exchanged 290x Direct CUII for me when I rma my 290. So now I am worry that this waterblock won't work with the new card, but I am not complaining


Nope. This is the one you need: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-dcii-acetal-nickel.html


----------



## bigbangSG

do any 1 know any way to be able to fit a 3/4 x 1/2 fitting into ek supermacy


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> do any 1 know any way to be able to fit a 3/4 x 1/2 fitting into ek supermacy


Just screw it in would be the normal solution.


----------



## bigbangSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Just screw it in would be the normal solution.


can't too big


----------



## gdubc

Double that's what she said.


----------



## gatesmarch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> do any 1 know any way to be able to fit a 3/4 x 1/2 fitting into ek supermacy


Are they EK fittings?


----------



## bigbangSG

nope a monsoon fitting


----------



## Roxycon

How many pre drilled holes for led diodes is it in the ek-ram monarch block?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> How many pre drilled holes for led diodes is it in the ek-ram monarch block?


Pre-drilled for 2x 3mm LEDs for the 4-Dimm monarch x4, my 2-Dimm unit doesn't have them, it's too skinny.


----------



## Roxycon

Nice, thanks


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Nice, thanks


----------



## Frontside

My EK FC R9-290X acetal has arrived.
It has some screws loose and no EK leak tested warranty sticker. Also both edges has scuff marks.


----------



## ozzy1925

i think its a common problem with ek packaging .Both of my backplates have scratches.But thanks to frozenpc ek send me a new ones without sending the old ones


----------



## Jimhans1

That's strange, I've never had an EK block or backplate show up in anything but perfect shape, all ordered from either FCPU or PPCS, and I'm up to over 20 blocks now in the past 24 months.


----------



## Kokin

My EK 290X block came in perfect condition, but the backplate had scratches on both the inner and outer sides. The small scuffs on the outside aren't worth the hassle of shipping back as it would have meant more waiting. I got the backplate more for functionality than aesthetics anyway, as it's hard to see the rear side of my GPU.



Installed the block + backplate last night and turned my Mayhem's Pastel Ice White to a royal blue color. The second picture is about half of a Mayhem's Blue Dye bottle (~7~8ml), while the third picture is the full 15ml.


----------



## Frontside

I ordered my block on EK store. Scuffs does not look like scratches. It's look like the block was not being polished properly.
Also i got an EK Coolstream XTX rad which arrived few month ago with bented fins and dent on a chamber. Both packages has no damage at all

p.s nice color, Kokin














. Too bad it doesn't match my color scheme


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontside*
> 
> I ordered my block on EK store. Scuffs does not look like scratches. It's look like the block was not being polished properly.
> Also i got an EK Coolstream XTX rad which arrived few month ago with bented fins and dent on a chamber. Both packages has no damage at all
> 
> p.s nice color, Kokin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Too bad it doesn't match my color scheme


I can feel the pits on the scuffs on the outside, so it's deep enough for me to consider it a light scratch. My backplate came in an undamaged box with bubble wrap inside, so it was definitely a QA issue, but it's not bad enough for me to get bothered. Although I'm hoping this isn't a common occurrence for the sake of other people.

Thanks, I originally wanted to stick with just black and white, but I felt like my system needed a bit of color and since blue is my favorite color, that is what I went for. I like the Blueberry pastel color like in the second picture, but M4ng03z suggested for me to go to a darker blue and it was a good call. You can pretty much get any color you want with Mayhem's (even black), but it's not cheap by any means.


----------



## Asus11

hey guys just need to make sure

going to be going SLI on both red PCIE slots.

heres a pic for reference...



will this terminal be the one to get? cheers


----------



## WiSK

No, you want a dual not a triple, and the spacing is 3 slots http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-dual-parallel-3-slot.html


----------



## gatesmarch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> nope a monsoon fitting


This could possibly be why. I have EK and XSPC fittings, and the EK outside diameter is a bit smaller so I assuming this may be the case. Of course EK wants you to use their fittings so maybe their blocks (CPU) are made so their fittings will fit perfectly. Again, I"m just guessing here...there may be other fittings that match their diameter as well.


----------



## midnightgypsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> hey guys just need to make sure
> 
> going to be going SLI on both red PCIE slots.
> 
> heres a pic for reference...
> 
> 
> 
> will this terminal be the one to get? cheers


Besure to measure, it for use with motherboards with PCIe x16 slots 60.9 mm (2.4") apart!


----------



## Tillmander

Some shots I took for the corsair domination competition.


----------



## sinnedone

Can someone tell me whats the difference between these 2 back plates for the r9290?

EK-FC R9-290X Backplate - Black [3831109868577]

and

EK-FC R9-290X Backplate - Black (QClass2) [4599]


----------



## Vlada011

Nice build in Obsidian 650D, I should build custom loop inside 650D without 200mm radiator.
I don't like that option. I will cut floor for 240mm. It's much easier with only CPU cooling but for me custom loop have sense only if you build CPU/GPU combo and 240mm is I think not enough to proper cool CPU/GPU. Excellent case only flaw is no space for triple 120mm or two 240mm.


----------



## Tillmander

I completely agree, but nothing you can't fix with a dremel. make a 360 in the top and a 240 in the front or if u don't want drive bays you can make a 420 in the front.


----------



## Jimhans1

@derickwm any idea when the Nickel Acetal GTX750 block is gonna come out? Waiting for it to finish my main rig, it's for my physx card.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Can someone tell me whats the difference between these 2 back plates for the r9290?
> 
> EK-FC R9-290X Backplate - Black [3831109868577]
> 
> and
> 
> EK-FC R9-290X Backplate - Black (QClass2) [4599]


QClass2 means it has some manufacturing defects.
Quote:


> This is a Quality Class 2 backplate which may have some finish imperfections (see sample photographs), mechanically-wise it is flawless. As a result this backplate is offered at discounted price.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> @derickwm any idea when the Nickel Acetal GTX750 block is gonna come out? Waiting for it to finish my main rig, it's for my physx card.


Ya know I'm not sure, I figured it'd be out by now. Let me look into that.


----------



## Jimhans1

Thank you sir.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Has anyone recently installed a R4BE monoblock bought straight from EK? The screws I was supplied were different than the manual and from other users that I have seen. I had to use my own rubber washers for the cpu area as the screws supplied did not fit the washers. the screws for the cpu socket was suppose to be allen headed screws and installed with the supplied key but I did not have those with the package. Will these screws be ok to use? I also had left over screws as well, not too sure if that is normal.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Deneteus

Does anybody in this thread know if the EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Parallel will work with the Asus Crosshair Formula-Z and 3 x XFX 290X w/ EK FC 290X blocks?

I just purchased a 3rd 290x within the past few weeks and I'm currently running a Sabertooth Gen 1. I had originally decided to stop at 2 until I found the 3rd for cheap.

The Crosshair F-Z should be here Tuesday and I have an order for 3rd block and I wanted to use the block system. I have seen zero info online about this setup. The EK compatibility list is down and they still haven't responded to my email.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deneteus*
> 
> Does anybody in this thread know if the EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Parallel will work with the Asus Crosshair Formula-Z and 3 x XFX 290X w/ EK FC 290X blocks?
> 
> I just purchased a 3rd 290x within the past few weeks and I'm currently running a Sabertooth Gen 1. I had originally decided to stop at 2 until I found the 3rd for cheap.
> 
> The Crosshair F-Z should be here Tuesday and I have an order for 3rd block and I wanted to use the block system. I have seen zero info online about this setup. The EK compatibility list is down and they still haven't responded to my email.


If you're talking about the Asus Crosshair *V* Formula-Z then from the pcie layout, you should have no problems using that triple bridge.


----------



## SlideRulz

Just installed the EK-FC terminal yesterday, ordered backplates this am.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Has anyone recently installed a R4BE monoblock bought straight from EK? The screws I was supplied were different than the manual and from other users that I have seen. I had to use my own rubber washers for the cpu area as the screws supplied did not fit the washers. the screws for the cpu socket was suppose to be allen headed screws and installed with the supplied key but I did not have those with the package. Will these screws be ok to use? I also had left over screws as well, not too sure if that is normal.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Contact our support and they should help you out. ekwb.com/support

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deneteus*
> 
> Does anybody in this thread know if the EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Parallel will work with the Asus Crosshair Formula-Z and 3 x XFX 290X w/ EK FC 290X blocks?
> 
> I just purchased a 3rd 290x within the past few weeks and I'm currently running a Sabertooth Gen 1. I had originally decided to stop at 2 until I found the 3rd for cheap.
> 
> The Crosshair F-Z should be here Tuesday and I have an order for 3rd block and I wanted to use the block system. I have seen zero info online about this setup. The EK compatibility list is down and they still haven't responded to my email.


Yes that should be fine.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> QClass2 means it has some manufacturing defects.


Rep









I totally missed where it said that.


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've noticed this problem after a few months of running with d.i. water and nickel cpu and gpu blocks.


I noticed same thing on my gpu blocks, running distiled with biocid.


----------



## Nichismo

same here ^^^

I used dead water which contains copper sulfate, i didnt realize it at the time but EK recommends against it.

Fortunately, im sure I can simply clean this off. It doesnt appear to be an actual corrosion or damage


----------



## Kokin

I've seen people recommend polish to remove those "stains". Doesn't look like any corrosion happened, at least with those photos.

Bought a small figure to accompany the new change in my build.


----------



## skupples

I swear deadwater can build up on surfaces... I've moved to usong Mayhem's x1... Havnt had any weird issues like this since.. It may be time to reevaluate the common consensus of water + silver/dead water/PT... Its done nothing but cause people issues as of late.. Atleast this is what it seems like.


----------



## gdubc

*This* might interest some of you.


----------



## VSG

Too bright for me, but glad to have the options nonetheless!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> *This* might interest some of you.


giefff whitee!


----------



## pathfindercod

No classy color options


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> I noticed same thing on my gpu blocks, running distiled with biocid.


I had the top off to try shift the marks but they are not moving, sent it back for a refund.


----------



## lowfat

Did you try polish? That definitely does not look like corrosion. Using a finger nail or soap and water generally will not work.


----------



## skupples

Brasso or similar ftw. Metal + water = things change color. Specially nickel.

Son has anyone else discovered what looks like copper deposit buildup when using dead water w/ nickel plated blocks?


----------



## Jimhans1

Any news for me @derickwm?


----------



## gatesmarch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You've got the foam in there nice and snug?
> Here's mine:
> 
> 
> If you're still experiencing issues once you have a waterblock installed let me know. You can also use a voltage adapter like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a very similar one and it works like a charm when I need it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FrozenCPU has tons of screw replacements in their shop, Bradley.


Well, the waterblock is installed, reservoir is full, and the foam is still blowing out. What is that adapter you have there? I tried using on of the voltage reducers I got w/my Noctua fans...it was a no go (I figured as much lol).


----------



## Destrto

Hey guys, quick question. Will running my EK DDC 3.25 pump 24/7 cause any issues? I'm presuming that it's meant to, or tested to run in a 24/7 setup, but just want to know for certain.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question. Will running my EK DDC 3.25 pump 24/7 cause any issues? I'm presuming that it's meant to, or tested to run in a 24/7 setup, but just want to know for certain.


It can run 24/7 without any problems


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It can run 24/7 without any problems


Yeah, but he is going to want to heatsink that DDC with active air flowing over it if he plans on 24/7 operation. I'd go the D5 route if I were him instead purely for the fact that it is more reliable over long periods of use.


----------



## skupples

I rarely turn my watercooled systems off for long periods of time. Stagnant water = no bueno.( yes I am paranoid)


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It can run 24/7 without any problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, but he is going to want to heatsink that DDC with active air flowing over it if he plans on 24/7 operation. I'd go the D5 route if I were him instead purely for the fact that it is more reliable over long periods of use.
Click to expand...

I forgot that I indeed use heatsinks of my DDC's


----------



## lowfat

You don't need airflow or or a heatsink on a DDC unless you are running 1.5GPM+. Which, unless you are running a single low restriction block, won't happen.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You don't need airflow or or a heatsink on a DDC unless you are running 1.5GPM+. Which, unless you are running a single low restriction block, won't happen.


Alright lowfat, what would you suggest in this case then. I currently am running an EK DDC 3.25 X-Res pump/res combo, with 1 XSPC 240mm Xflow radiator, and an EK Supreme LTX AMD Water block. Is that CPU block considered a low restriction block? Or is it the loop as a whole that determines that?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Alright lowfat, what would you suggest in this case then. I currently am running an EK DDC 3.25 X-Res pump/res combo, with 1 XSPC 240mm Xflow radiator, and an EK Supreme LTX AMD Water block. Is that CPU block considered a low restriction block? Or is it the loop as a whole that determines that?


That is pretty low restriction. I run my DDC pumps 24/7, but they are PWM so I can put them at 30% speed easily. I think you should invest in the EK heatsink just in case


----------



## killacam7478

Hey everyone, I wasn't sure where to post this question, but I was trying to figure out how to connect my radiator fans for my EK L240 kit. I currently have the CPU fan slot on my Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H motherboard, connected to a fan splitter, which is then connected to two PWM Corsair fans and attached to my rad. When my computer is idle, the fans spin low but I can tell they are pulsing a bit (creating some slight vibration noise up and down). When under full load, they don't have that pulsing, but obviously they are louder. The pump on my kit is connected to another mobo fan connector, and it just runs at full speed all the time.

I also have a Lamptron fan controller, with 5 of the 6 slots used for internal case fans.

Is it okay to connect the two PWM fans connected to my radiator, to my fan controller? My hope is to manually adjust the fan speeds so it is quiet but not pulsing at all. I read that I shouldn't connect PWM fans to a fan controller, wasn't sure if that was right. Also, do I need to go into BIOS then and tell it to boot up without a fan connected to the CPU fan slot? Any help is appreciated.


----------



## VSG

You don't want to control PWM fans off a voltage controller. Not only will you likely be subject to potential ticks, the fans MTBF will decrease appreciably. PWM fans are always meant to run at 12V.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That is pretty low restriction. I run my DDC pumps 24/7, but they are PWM so I can put them at 30% speed easily. I think you should invest in the EK heatsink just in case


I've felt my pump while it's running, it doesn't feel hot or anything at all. Just a little warm from being ran all day so far. The reason i asked about this, is due to me not being able to relocate the pump/res because of my case restrictions and fittings on everything at the moment. When I get school money in the fall, (or if I decide to use some from paypal) I plan to add a GPU block, a new case and another radiator or 2. A bit of unnecessary info at the moment, but I just want to know if there will be any cause for concern if the pump is left as is, running 24/7, for a couple of months.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Alright lowfat, what would you suggest in this case then. I currently am running an EK DDC 3.25 X-Res pump/res combo, with 1 XSPC 240mm Xflow radiator, and an EK Supreme LTX AMD Water block. Is that CPU block considered a low restriction block? Or is it the loop as a whole that determines that?


The LTX is a relatively restrictive block.

If the plastic of the DDC gets warm under normal use then yes I would probably suggest a heatsink. I'd honestly suggest a heatsink anyway as it looks way better. Especially if you polish the hell out of a nickel one







.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The LTX is a relatively restrictive block.
> 
> If the plastic of the DDC gets warm under normal use then yes I would probably suggest a heatsink. I'd honestly suggest a heatsink anyway as it looks way better. Especially if you polish the hell out of a nickel one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I'll put that on the list of parts to pick up then. Thanks.

What makes the LTX restrictive? I believe the one I have is the old model, the one from PPCS.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I'll put that on the list of parts to pick up then. Thanks.
> 
> What makes the LTX restrictive? I believe the one I have is the old model, the one from PPCS.


http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/03/18/i7-3930k-cpu-ek-supreme-ltx/4/

I do believe the current LTX still uses the same design, just w/ different mounting brackets.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/03/18/i7-3930k-cpu-ek-supreme-ltx/4/
> 
> I do believe the current LTX still uses the same design, just w/ different mounting brackets.


Thanks for the link. Another question while I have you here. With the AMD version of that LTX block, it doesn't specify an IN or OUT. With these blocks, does it matter which one I use for Inlet and Outlet?


----------



## pathfindercod

Is it safe to use IC Diamond on the nickel plated blocks?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thanks for the link. Another question while I have you here. With the AMD version of that LTX block, it doesn't specify an IN or OUT. With these blocks, does it matter which one I use for Inlet and Outlet?


It doesn't matter since there is no impingement plate like the Supremacy.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It doesn't matter since there is no impingement plate like the Supremacy.


Thanks!


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Is it safe to use IC Diamond on the nickel plated blocks?


Safe? Yes. Good to use? No. IC Diamond has diamond powder in it, which in itself is highly abrasive. I wouldn't be using it on things that are going to contact directly with bare dies, i.e. your GPU block. Yeah, it is okay if you are running it on your CPU IHS, but not recommended for bare dies.

And it is a PITA to clean off, even with 91% rubbing alcohol.

Just use something like Gelid GC Extreme, which is pretty much the perfect consistency between runny and highly viscous. And is also one of the best performing TIMs on the market, barring CLU, CLP, or Indigo Extreme. And it isn't expensive at all.


----------



## pathfindercod

Thank you! I'll look into Geild..


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Thank you! I'll look into Geild..


If you are going with an EK Supremacy, they bundle some Gelid GC Extreme with it. It is more than enough to do both your CPU and GPU. Just a heads up.

And they bundle EK-Ectotherm with their GPU blocks as well, which is right up there with Gelid Extreme.


----------



## VSG

Give me another week or so to confirm but I may well have discovered a contender to CLU which is perfectly safe and non-conductive.


----------



## pathfindercod

Oh sweet. I actually purchased the new RIVEBE full motherboard block. I have 4 nice big boxes from performance and frozen sitting here will all EK stuff and some other stuff. Just waiting for caselabs to get my mercury s8 here..


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Give me another week or so to confirm but I may well have discovered a contender to CLU which is perfectly safe and non-conductive.


Junpus?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Junpus?


Close, but wrong carbon allotrope









There have been batch to batch variations with this particular paste so I am trying to figure out with the manufacturer what's going on. But the newest batch I got is definitely the one I am going to be using in my upcoming build.


----------



## lowfat

I see the Titan Z Hydrocopper uses an EK block. Does this mean Hydrocoppers of the future will also be EK?


----------



## VSG

Great observation









For those wondering


----------



## Kimir

Looking good!


----------



## Bartimaeus

Guessing some sort of graphite thermal paste.


----------



## VSG

EK has you guys covered with retail blocks as well: http://www.ekwb.com/news/494/19/EK-FC-Titan-Z-for-NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-Titan-Z-released/


----------



## Bartimaeus




----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I see the Titan Z Hydrocopper uses an EK block. Does this mean Hydrocoppers of the future will also be EK?


----------



## VSG




----------



## jasjeet

Opinions on this kit over the H80i?
EK-KIT L120 water cooling kit


----------



## Newtocooling

I have a quick question I just installed my first GPU waterblock on my 780ti, it's the EK full block CSQ, and I ran a quick loop with just the pump and GPU block to check for leaks, and there seems to be a large amount of air right in front the the heat fins, with massive amounts of air going through the entire card. Is this normal when you just start the loop for the first time? I'm letting it run while I'm at work to see if the bubbles dissipate over time.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> Opinions on this kit over the H80i?
> EK-KIT L120 water cooling kit


You'll experience better temps and of course you'll have the option to add more radiators and a GPU block in the loop down the road if you'd like. The H80i doesn't allow for upgrades really without hacking things apart.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I have a quick question I just installed my first GPU waterblock on my 780ti, it's the EK full block CSQ, and I ran a quick loop with just the pump and GPU block to check for leaks, and there seems to be a large amount of air right in front the the heat fins, with massive amounts of air going through the entire card. Is this normal when you just start the loop for the first time? I'm letting it run while I'm at work to see if the bubbles dissipate over time.


Yes that's normal. That's part of the "bleeding" the loop. Eventually all of the bubbles will clear and you'll be good to go.


----------



## jasjeet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You'll experience better temps and of course you'll have the option to add more radiators and a GPU block in the loop down the road if you'd like. The H80i doesn't allow for upgrades really without hacking things apart.


Any reason i cant find a single review for the kit?

Its very tempting since my H80i pump is failing within a month or so. Although it performed really good at the start, 75c load temps at max fans. So if the EK can match that ill be really happy, and even better if i dont have to wind the fans up to max.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You'll experience better temps and of course you'll have the option to add more radiators and a GPU block in the loop down the road if you'd like. The H80i doesn't allow for upgrades really without hacking things apart.
> 
> 
> 
> Any reason i cant find a single review for the kit?
> 
> Its very tempting since my H80i pump is failing within a month or so. Although it performed really good at the start, 75c load temps at max fans. So if the EK can match that ill be really happy, and even better if i dont have to wind the fans up to max.
Click to expand...

Most reviewers ask for the 240/360 version (which I would also recommend to you if you can fit the larger radiator).

http://www.ekwb.com/reviews/kits-reviews/


----------



## jasjeet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Most reviewers ask for the 240/360 version (which I would also recommend to you if you can fit the larger radiator).
> http://www.ekwb.com/reviews/kits-reviews/


yeah i saw those, my case is the Lian Li PC-354B so im pretty limited for space. Dont need a GPU loop, so pure CPU is fine. If the EK can do what the H80i did, then that should be good. And i hope EK has better reliability. Whats the warranty like in the UK?


----------



## szeged

If ek partner with evga for the hydrocopper cards then they might finally be worth it lol. Those sad swiftech blocks need to fiat.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Most reviewers ask for the 240/360 version (which I would also recommend to you if you can fit the larger radiator).
> http://www.ekwb.com/reviews/kits-reviews/
> 
> 
> 
> yeah i saw those, my case is the Lian Li PC-354B so im pretty limited for space. Dont need a GPU loop, so pure CPU is fine. If the EK can do what the H80i did, then that should be good. And i hope EK has better reliability. Whats the warranty like in the UK?
Click to expand...

2 years for original purchasers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> If ek partner with evga for the hydrocopper cards then they might finally be worth it lol. Those sad swiftech blocks need to fiat.


You can get used to seeing EK + HC blocks/cards


----------



## szeged

Thank god, the only thing I'd buy a hydrocopper for is target practice.

Vrm and vram? Nah those don't need to be cooled properly.

Said no one ever. Well I guess they did over at swiftech.


----------



## derickwm

Hehe


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I see the Titan Z Hydrocopper uses an EK block. Does this mean Hydrocoppers of the future will also be EK?


We can only hope. I PRAY THEE

Those damned PCB warping komodo blocks with piss poor vrm and vram cooling gotta goooo


----------



## Jimhans1

Hi @derickwm any news for me by chance?


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Great observation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those wondering


Nice, but why puts inlet/outlet in the back of the card?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Nice, but why puts inlet/outlet in the back of the card?


I agree with Snef

All the other dual gpu blocks (GTX 690, 7990, 295x2) i know have the inlet/outlet on the left side of the card like the other single gpu blocks


----------



## VSG

If you look at the EK blocks, they have the ports in the usual place. I guess here the flow within the block is reversed left-right.


----------



## Kimir

Could be a picture of "suggested presentation"? Just a bad photoshop.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Could be a picture of "suggested presentation"? Just a bad photoshop.


Maybe


----------



## derickwm

It's not photoshop'd. Just magic


----------



## akira749

Okay....i'm not sure where the magic is but since I will never have a $3K card in my hands...who am i to argue


----------



## skupples

The longer I look at it the more I love it.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Everybody loves magic...


----------



## ClaggyPants

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's not photoshop'd. Just magic


Sorry to be a pain Derick - did you get my last PM? (Sorry I keep spelling your name wrong too







)


----------



## khemist

I posted a pic a while ago of my EK classy block with some type of corrosion or discolouration, sent it back and got a refund.

Just to say the place i bought it from managed to clean it up, (not sure what they used) so it must have been biological, i'm posting this so as not to put anyone off EK products.









https://imageshack.com/i/ngyi6wj

This is the new block.


----------



## kpoeticg

This seems like a stupid question since the manual says they're really just to prevent shorts, but.....

I'm bout to order a new pump from PPC. They don't carry the EK Thermal Pad selection like FCPU. I need new pads for my R4BE VRM Block. I have extra "Thermal Pad A 0.5mm" pads from other blocks. I need the 1mm Pad A for the coils tho. Any reason not to just order the Phobya 120x20x1mm Pad from PPC?

Thanx in advance for any1 who can ease my mind before i place the order =)


----------



## Jimhans1

I have used that phobya 1mm pad with EK blocks with no problem, and for the same reason, lol, they are white pads, just so you know, not grey, but they did just fine and kept temps a little bit better, like 2-3c, not much, but every little bit helps.

See, white :


----------



## kpoeticg

Thank you sir =)

I figured it would be fine, but never hurts to ask first


----------



## Jimhans1




----------



## pathfindercod

I have a question on EK rads. If they are 90% copper tubes what's the other 10?


----------



## kpoeticg

Most likely Brass. I know EK rads are great quality so i can't imagine what else it would be


----------



## MeanBruce

For Derek,

When will the new EK 100ml concentrate become available in US shops? PPCS, Frozen etc?

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/M...EVO-Concentrate_all_1200_zps118300a1.jpg.html


----------



## VSG

Oooh that's a good find, they seem inexpensive as well.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oooh that's a good find, they seem inexpensive as well.


Think they are supposed to sell for $8.99, instead of $14.99, less shipping weight.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Hey guys, are you supposed to leave the plastic washers when installing the EK FC7970 backplate?

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109856192.pdf

Thanks!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Jimhans1

I've always removed them Jeffinslaw. And have never had an issue.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I've always removed them Jeffinslaw. And have never had an issue.


Awesome! Thanks! +rep

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I have used that phobya 1mm pad with EK blocks with no problem, and for the same reason, lol, they are white pads, just so you know, not grey, but they did just fine and kept temps a little bit better, like 2-3c, not much, but every little bit helps.
> 
> See, white :


Hmmm, thought you hated Phobya like a lot of folks in the WC club thread (







)?

Anyways, I'm using the stock ek stuff on three of my blocks but one of them has the blue stuff from ebay. I'll check vrm temps to see if there's any difference. How's the Phobya compared to the Fuji poly stuff everyone raves about?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hmmm, thought you hated Phobya like a lot of folks in the WC club thread (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )?


This kind of stuff isn't produced by phobya anyway, just rebrand. the fear on Phobya/Alphacool product is when they are the manufacturer, am i right?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys, are you supposed to leave the plastic washers when installing the EK FC7970 backplate?
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109856192.pdf
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


The screws around the core on the back of the card essentially act as standoffs to prevent the backplate from hitting the card. The only place I'd recommend using the plastic washers is on the two screws that come in from the core side to screw into the backplate (the ones around the GPU power connectors).

At least that is how I did mine on my classy >.<!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> This kind of stuff isn't produced by phobya anyway, just rebrand. the fear on Phobya/Alphacool product is when they are the manufacturer, am i right?


I think Phobya rebrands everything they sell.


----------



## szeged

they need to start rebranding better products then.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> This kind of stuff isn't produced by phobya anyway, just rebrand. the fear on Phobya/Alphacool product is when they are the manufacturer, am i right?


A lot of stuff they sell is rebranded (like many companies). I'm using their fittings and since there's not much complexity to these compression fittings, I don't mind using them. Their angled adapters did leak on me so I've not purchased those anymore.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> This kind of stuff isn't produced by phobya anyway, just rebrand. the fear on Phobya/Alphacool product is when they are the manufacturer, am i right?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think Phobya rebrands everything they sell.


As far as I understand it, Phobya is commissioning products from a variety of OEMs, while Alphacool is an actual manufacturer. But both are closely related to Aquatuning, a reseller (Europe's version of PPCs). So they cover production, rebranding and selling all within the same family of companies.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hmmm, thought you hated Phobya like a lot of folks in the WC club thread (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )?
> 
> Anyways, I'm using the stock ek stuff on three of my blocks but one of them has the blue stuff from ebay. I'll check vrm temps to see if there's any difference. How's the Phobya compared to the Fuji poly stuff everyone raves about?


I got this stuff because at the time it was the only 1mm thermal pads in stock from either PPCS or FCPU, and I had to get the card back into action soonest, for what it's worth, they work well, I don't know how it compares to the Fujis, but I figure it would be close to any other 7w pads.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:
Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic* 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys, are you supposed to leave the plastic washers when installing the EK FC7970 backplate?
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109856192.pdf
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


The screws around the core on the back of the card essentially act as standoffs to prevent the backplate from hitting the card. The only place I'd recommend using the plastic washers is on the two screws that come in from the core side to screw into the backplate (the ones around the GPU power connectors).

At least that is how I did mine on my classy >.

I did that as well









What do you know? My local hardware store had the EXACT screws I need. M3x8 DIN 7991. I'm very surprised! Some pictures coming in a little bit.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think Phobya rebrands everything they sell.


Seems true, their rad look like they are the Alphacool, cables and stuff, who knows. I'd like to know who's the oem of their block, tho.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> they need to start rebranding better products then.


Yup.








I believe they are in the market on quantity over quality anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A lot of stuff they sell is rebranded (like many companies). I'm using their fittings and since there's not much complexity to these compression fittings, I don't mind using them. Their angled adapters did leak on me so I've not purchased those anymore.


make sense, I got "no name" fittings in my fractal rig, bought them for 2.9€ a piece, and the EK on my new build were 4.4€. Both work the same, just very different aesthetically.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Seems true, their rad look like they are the Alphacool


Most radiators out there are manufactured by Magicool AFAIK. Including Alphacool and Phobya.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

EK FC7970 block w/ backplate.



















You can find more in my build log titled Schwarz Nickel. Link in the sig!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Kokin

I'm using a 90 degree dual rotary from Alphacool and it's been leak-free. I've seen the bad experiences here from angle adapters from Alphacool, but $6 was more justified than a $15 bitspower one. My only complaint is that there wasn't a black nickel/sparkle color and I had to settle with matte black.

I originally wanted to polish my R9 290X CSQ block cause lowfat made it look so sexy, but now I've taken a liking to the frosted look as it contrasts well with my black S3.


----------



## Malik




----------



## jasjeet

Whats the deal with high vs low FPI on rads? I was going to buy the LT 120 kit, but it has a rad with 38FPI, which people say you need really high speed fans to work with.
I want my PC to be silent all the time unless im running Prime95 to extract my highest overclock where i will put all fans to maximum speed regardless of noise. Then i use a custom fan profile which keeps the system silent until it hits 60c+. In this case is high FPI good or bad?


----------



## kpoeticg

FPI = Fins per inch. Fins are heatsinks for the water channels. So the more fins, the more heat gets dissipated from the rad. But also the more fins, the less room there is for fans to blow air through the gaps and cool em off.

So it's a tradeoff and they both have their uses. If a quiet build is important to you, i recommend going with low fpi for sure.


----------



## jasjeet

At medium loads, is high or lower FPI going to make much difference with fans at 6-800rpm?


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, you don't want a high fpi rad with 600-800rpm fans. That's what low fpi rads are designed for.

Surface area is more important than high fpi. Get some lower fpi rads and just make sure you have enough radspace to cool your components.

High fpi rads with low speed fans = no cooling. The fins need cool air.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> Whats the deal with high vs low FPI on rads? I was going to buy the LT 120 kit, but it has a rad with 38FPI, which people say you need really high speed fans to work with.
> I want my PC to be silent all the time unless im running Prime95 to extract my highest overclock where i will put all fans to maximum speed regardless of noise. Then i use a custom fan profile which keeps the system silent until it hits 60c+. In this case is high FPI good or bad?


The current LT kits use the Coolstream PE rads. They are listed as having 38FPI but they are splitter fins, meaning two rows between each tube, so they effectively get counted twice. I use the PE rads with low speed fans ( <800RPM idle - 1300RPM max ) and they work absolutely great, one of the best rads I've ever owned. So don't get too hung up on FPI and fan speed.


----------



## kpoeticg

38 split is still 19 tho. I'd say 600-800rpm range is a little low for that. I'm not an expert tho.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yes, but its just nowhere near as bad as a lot of people make out. If you are using 800RPM as the maximum fan speed and only one layer of fan then absolutely you can get better efficiency with lower FPI. Even then its a percentage difference, its not like they don't work.
If however you use more than one layer of fans that moves the effective airflow up to the equivalent of quite a bit higher RPM's and the balance changes. Or if like me you use 700 - 800RPM as an idle speed, completely silent and move to only 1200RPM at full load, still really very quiet, the situation completely reverses and higher FPI's are totally worth having. Even more so if using two layers of fans.

Its just not like as I see said a lot that you need very high speeds like 2000RPM to make them worthwhile. I am using PE rads now after changing from XT45's and purely anecdotally I am seeing lower water temps, and can use lower fan speeds for the same temps (my fans are controlled using an air/water delta curve). I was honestly expecting a slight performance drop but was happy to accept it for the better appearance and slightly more compact size of the PE's but they surprised me.

Its also worth noting that splitter, and higher FPI's are making something of a comeback fashion wise with EK's PE and XSPC's new RX rads. In Bundys testing even at only 600RPM and a single layer of fans the new higher FPI RX V3 beats the low FPI RX V2


----------



## pathfindercod

How is EK's support? I have been emailing them about pre-purchase questions and they have been answering real quick. I emailed them two days ago about a problem with one of the products I bought and they have clamed up with no response now.


----------



## Drifbau5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> At medium loads, is high or lower FPI going to make much difference with fans at 6-800rpm?


Like Jakusonfire, I haven't found it to be very detrimental to my temperatures using low RPM with high FPI. When I built my loop I didn't realize high FPI was to be used with high RPM fans. I bought my GT Stealth rads (30 FPI) because they were slim and because of the location of the ports not necessarily because of the high FPI. So I was running my fans (Spectre Pros) at 600RPM on idle and had a fan profile set to slowly speed up after 40C.

I still use this setup and it works really well for me. My GPU/CPU temperatures stay at around 28C on idle and 45C when playing games. My system usually doesn't heat up enough to make my fans go past 850RPM and it is very silent. But for more demanding games I have a profile that starts my fans at around 1000RPM just to be safe and thats when I start hearing them. So I know its not an optimal configuration but its making me happy. I would note though that although my rads have high FPI, they are slim. Not sure how a thick high FPI rad would work with low RPM fans.


----------



## niklot1981

First look at the two blocks EK-Supremacy | EK-RAM Monarch X4


----------



## jasjeet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> Like Jakusonfire, I haven't found it to be very detrimental to my temperatures using low RPM with high FPI. When I built my loop I didn't realize high FPI was to be used with high RPM fans. I bought my GT Stealth rads (30 FPI) because they were slim and because of the location of the ports not necessarily because of the high FPI. So I was running my fans (Spectre Pros) at 600RPM on idle and had a fan profile set to slowly speed up after 40C.
> 
> I still use this setup and it works really well for me. My GPU/CPU temperatures stay at around 28C on idle and 45C when playing games. My system usually doesn't heat up enough to make my fans go past 850RPM and it is very silent. But for more demanding games I have a profile that starts my fans at around 1000RPM just to be safe and thats when I start hearing them. So I know its not an optimal configuration but its making me happy. I would note though that although my rads have high FPI, they are slim. Not sure how a thick high FPI rad would work with low RPM fans.


Thanks for the opinions guys, i thought it would be fine. I think this kit should be pretty good, so as soon as i can get a refund for the H80i im going to pick up the EK L120 kit.

What are the opinions on the res and pump combo? Im assuming a large res is only needed with lots of tubing block etc? And pump is good enough? What about reliability as this is a crucial factor for me, one that is making me move away from Corsair CLC.


----------



## kpoeticg

If you already have your rad then you can definitely make due. But i just feel like if you know ahead of time that you're gonna be keeping your fans in the range that low fpi rads were created for, might as well go with low fpi.

It's true that split-fin isn't quite the same as high fpi, but it's still pretty dense in there. I have all Alphacool rads with one EX360 cuz of it's low profile. The EX definitely has alot more "clutter" where the alphacools you can see straight through to the other side.

I don't think high fpi ever really fell outta style so to speak, GTX and GTS have been known as quality rads as long as i've been around. I can be real opinionated sometimes, i just feel like lower fpi rads are really made specifically for people that wanna run their fans at low speeds, like a 600-800rpm curve for instance









Most of my fans are AP-00's so i'm definitely not against split-fin rad designs =)

Edit: Just noticed your last questions. Technically a reservoir isn't a crucial part of a loop, so people generally just get whatever they can fit in the space they have. The bigger res you get, the less you'll have to think about keeping your loop full. I don't think there's any actual bad quality res's on the market right now, none that i can think of anyway. Get one that works with your build's theme/layout/colors and whatnot.

EK res's are really versatile in case you ever change your mind about something. I'm pretty sure they sell just about every piece of their reservoirs as accessories. So for instance, if you ever buy a bigger or smaller chassis, you can just buy the bigger or smaller tube instead of a whole new res.

D5's are the most "reliable" pumps AFAIK. D5's are bigger and more reliable, DDC's are more compact so they generate more heat and have a better chance of failing eventually. I really don't know much about the DCP's so i can't comment on em. They seem to be popular though.

Generally if you got enough room for a D5 or 2, that's the best choice. You can also get a res that the D5 connects to like an EK X-Res or the new Primochill CTR Phase II's.


----------



## jasjeet

Thanks for the info, im a little tight on budget otherwise i could go with a custom loop and not the pre picked parts from the kit, nice to get some info on the individual parts. I read the DCP 2.2 is a very quiet pump only 17dB on SPCR site, which is pretty awesome. Im not planning to expand the loop due to the size of my case so as long its adequate for that its all good. I think i will have to make do with the Rad, again as going separates is crazy expensive compared to kits. I hope it out performs the H80i.


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, i should hope a full EK loop would outperform an h80i









Grabbing an EK kit is still a custom loop. You're really just getting a bargain because you're buying all the parts together. It should still be a great loop

And yeah, if you have reasons that it's better for you to go with the PE then it's not the end of the world. I was speaking to you from the perspective of you need to buy a rad and you don't know which one to get. So i was telling you to choose based on your fan profiles.

You could always grab an EK kit with an XT or XTX in it instead of a PE. I'm pretty sure FCPU carries both. I think those are both 11FPI which might be a little better for a silent build. But either way you'll be fine. Good luck


----------



## Jakusonfire

They only make the one kit at the moment and the PE has replaced the XT rads


----------



## kpoeticg

I know EK replaced the XT/X with the PE's. But FCPU still has the kit with the XT and the kit with the XTX

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15069/ex-wat-201/Ek_H30_240_HFX_Advanced_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_-_CSQ_EK-KIT_H3O_240_HFX.html?tl=g30c83s137

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18965/ex-wat-250/EK_L360_Complete_Triple_120mm_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_EK-KIT_L360.html?tl=g30c83s137


----------



## Kimir

Final pictures of my mostly EK based build.


----------



## MiiX

Has probably been asked before, but im still not smart enough to find the answer:
In THIS pump/res combo, is the pump the same as Swiftech's MCP35X?


----------



## kpoeticg

I always thought they were the same exact pump, but i noticed when i shorted out one of my 35x's and tried to fix it that it says DDC 3.1 on the PCB. I don't know the difference between the 3.1 and 3.2 PCB...

Sweet looking build @Kimir . Nice work


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Has probably been asked before, but im still not smart enough to find the answer:
> In THIS pump/res combo, is the pump the same as Swiftech's MCP35X?


As I understand it, EK sells a Laing DDC 3.25 with a green wire soldered on for PWM.

From Martin's review of the MCP35X:
Quote:


> At the surface level the PCB looks identical to that of the DDC3.25, but what hides within is a very different motor. Don't assume you can simply solder in a green wire on a DDC3.25 and create a 35X motor, it doesn't work.


----------



## MiiX

Aha, kinda makes sense now. Thanks


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Sweet looking build @Kimir
> . Nice work


Thanks


----------



## jasjeet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I know EK replaced the XT/X with the PE's. But FCPU still has the kit with the XT and the kit with the XTX
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15069/ex-wat-201/Ek_H30_240_HFX_Advanced_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_-_CSQ_EK-KIT_H3O_240_HFX.html?tl=g30c83s137
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18965/ex-wat-250/EK_L360_Complete_Triple_120mm_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_EK-KIT_L360.html?tl=g30c83s137


Im in the UK so cant get that here, i think they made some improvements with the cpu block since the old kit however.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Final pictures of my mostly EK based build.


i do love the green fields of france, but i love that caselabs build even more!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Final pictures of my mostly EK based build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautifully done Kimir!!!!


----------



## VSG

Ya, nicely done indeed!


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i do love the green fields of france, but i love that caselabs build even more!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Beautifully done Kimir!!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, nicely done indeed!


Thanks guys.


----------



## ARacoma9999

Kmir...I've been stalking this thread for a little, and the same thing keeps popping into my head.

Is your picture of pr0n? And if so, source.


----------



## babysnakes

Lots of stuff on the net about NOT mixing metals in WC loops. Does anyone know what the EK Jet plates are made out of? It looks like cheap steel.


----------



## Neo Zuko

In my opinion avoid aluminum for sure (proven to be bad), best to avoid silver and gold for possible safety (a bit too dissimilar of a metal compared to copper, brass, and nickel), and use an anti corrosion fluid like X1. Then everything else like steel, brass, copper, nickel, they all should be ok. But I have no proof of this, just my gut feeling mixed with random forum posts and a small amount of online reading. Not enough info is available and the variables are many.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *babysnakes*
> 
> Lots of stuff on the net about NOT mixing metals in WC loops. Does anyone know what the EK Jet plates are made out of? It looks like cheap steel.


My EK Supremacy jet plates are made of stainless steel with a satin finish on them. Definitely NOT cheap steel.


----------



## babysnakes

Many thanks Jimhans1 . I am reassured.


----------



## Jimhans1




----------



## babysnakes

.... wouldn't it be nice if EK made them out of copper? I emailed them, but it seems they have no plans for it.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> My EK Supremacy jet plates are made of stainless steel with a satin finish on them. Definitely NOT cheap steel.


Bear in mind also that stainless steel is used on almost every full cover block for the R9-290 (and many other cards) so this is not an uncommon thing to do.


----------



## babysnakes

I've got an Asus Poseidon GTX 780 going in the loop, which i think is nickel plated copper, so no getting away from mixing metals unless i learn plumbing & bend a load of copper pipes. LOL


----------



## Jimhans1

I'm not worried about Stainless Steels in loops, most of the stainless steels in use today are non-reactive alloys, and yes, I know that EK AND Aquacomputer have been using Stainless steels in there hardware for quite some time now, but thank you @stren for the reminder.


----------



## babysnakes

Anyone used EK fluids?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *babysnakes*
> 
> Anyone used EK fluids?


Sorry, I only use Mayhems coolants in my systems.


----------



## Kokin

Same, only Mayhem's for me aside from distilled water. I haven't had any problems with stainless steel whether it was using XSPC or EK blocks.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *babysnakes*
> 
> Anyone used EK fluids?


I usually use Mayhems, but I did use Ek fluids a few times and it work really good!









I used the blue and the clear version


----------



## Newtocooling

I have tried to mix two EK components, and now I'm wondering if they are not compatible?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17509/ex-res-432/EK-MultiOption_RES_X3_250_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_6_Total_Ports.html?id=k6R2PMnY&mv_pc=22601

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21023/ex-pmp-252/EK_D5_X-RES_Top_140_w_D5_Vario_Pump_EK-D5_Vario_X-RES_140_incl_pump.html?id=k6R2PMnY&mv_pc=22757

The reservoir has a much larger anticyclone device on the reservoir X3-250, than the smaller 140 reservoir that came with the pump and res combo. So when I replace the smaller res with the larger one I'm getting a cyclone effect in the larger reservoir. Is the larger reservoir not supposed to be used with the D5-X-RES?


----------



## snef

I use EK Blood red in my Bloody Angel, red Poseidon and Extremmme red demon builds and no issue
the only time I had corrosion is on Koolance block with Distilled water and silver Kill coil,


----------



## sofaMonster

Hi!

Not sure if this is the right place, but I will try anyway.
I read a lot about the nickel scaling off of the EK blocks in 2011.
Is this still true or did they fix the quality problem?

Asking because I am considering to watercool my "old" GTX 670 Asus card. This card can only get the EK acetal+nickel block, as far as I know, so it would be nice to know if the problem still persists


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I have tried to mix two EK components, and now I'm wondering if they are not compatible?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17509/ex-res-432/EK-MultiOption_RES_X3_250_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_6_Total_Ports.html?id=k6R2PMnY&mv_pc=22601
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21023/ex-pmp-252/EK_D5_X-RES_Top_140_w_D5_Vario_Pump_EK-D5_Vario_X-RES_140_incl_pump.html?id=k6R2PMnY&mv_pc=22757
> 
> The reservoir has a much larger anticyclone device on the reservoir X3-250, than the smaller 140 reservoir that came with the pump and res combo. So when I replace the smaller res with the larger one I'm getting a cyclone effect in the larger reservoir. Is the larger reservoir not supposed to be used with the D5-X-RES?


The anticyclone pieces can be removed, so why not just swap the bigger one into the larger reservoir?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> The anticyclone pieces can be removed, so why not just swap the bigger one into the larger reservoir?


that is what I did!!


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> that is what I did!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> The anticyclone pieces can be removed, so why not just swap the bigger one into the larger reservoir?


I tried to switch them the larger anit cyclone piece doesn't fit the same way the smaller one does, ironically the larger one has a thinner profile piece that fits into the pump top base, and keeps popping out. I can take pictures when I get home.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I tried to switch them the larger anit cyclone piece doesn't fit the same way the smaller one does, ironically the larger one has a thinner profile piece that fits into the pump top base, and keeps popping out. I can take pictures when I get home.


Then use the sponge that came with the D5 kit along with the anticyclone piece that fits.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Then use the sponge that came with the D5 kit along with the anticyclone piece that fits.


That actually did work.......... but I have Mayhems Pastel Green to use in that loop, and I thought I read somewhere that Mayhems Pastel doesn't work too well with that sponge?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> That actually did work.......... but I have Mayhems Pastel Green to use in that loop, and I thought I read somewhere that Mayhems Pastel doesn't work too well with that sponge?


The sponge is just a sponge to reduce turbulence.

Unless that's something new, I don't see how a sponge could have any impact on what fluid you use.


----------



## Newtocooling

I just thought of something I could just use the Aquacomputer Aqualis pump and Res combo I have for that loop, and the other loop will use Mayhems X1 black coolant, does anyone know if X-1 is ok with the EK D5 sponge and anitcyclone?


----------



## Pheozero

@derickwm
Any news about if you guys are going to make a block for the Maximus VII Gene/Hero?


----------



## Jakusonfire

The EK Pump res anti cylones have two legs that straddle the pump intake whereas the normal res anticylones are full width. Using the full width anti cyclone will only restrict water flow in to the pump.
If you are getting a cyclone effect its because the flow rate is really high. Just turn the pump down. The Anti cylones mostly just stop bubbles being drawn back into the pump so the taller one shouldn't make a whole lot of difference.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sofaMonster*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> Not sure if this is the right place, but I will try anyway.
> I read a lot about the nickel scaling off of the EK blocks in 2011.
> Is this still true or did they fix the quality problem?
> 
> Asking because I am considering to watercool my "old" GTX 670 Asus card. This card can only get the EK acetal+nickel block, as far as I know, so it would be nice to know if the problem still persists


If you are the original purchaser, ek warranty will cover you. Most of the plating issues were fixed by the time "CSQ" launched. The gtx 6xx were the first nividia blocks to get csq.


----------



## Newtocooling

I found that information when I looked into Mayhems for this build. I read almost the entire Mayhems forum, and the rep from Mayhems mentioned the sponge possible having an issue with pastel coolant one time I think.


----------



## Destrto

I don't mean to argue, Jakusonfire, but I don't see how the cyclone piece would restrict flow. Unless the cyclone inserts are positioned differently than mine (it can only fit the one direction), it's perpendicular to the inlet and outlet.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The EK Pump res anti cylones have two legs that straddle the pump intake whereas the normal res anticylones are full width. Using the full width anti cyclone will only restrict water flow in to the pump.
> If you are getting a cyclone effect its because the flow rate is really high. Just turn the pump down. The Anti cylones mostly just stop bubbles being drawn back into the pump so the taller one shouldn't make a whole lot of difference.


My pump is on two as the dial never worked since I recieved my system from FrozenCPU! I should have also stated that I was only testing the two 780ti I put on water blocks with the EK bridge to check for leaks so almost no flow restriction at all. So you think I don't even need the anti-cyclone device once it's in on a full loop? Your right Jakusonfire the smaller anti-cyclone is only on a two legs, am I not supposed to use the larger res with my D5 setup?


----------



## sofaMonster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If you are the original purchaser, ek warranty will cover you. Most of the plating issues were fixed by the time "CSQ" launched. The gtx 6xx were the first nividia blocks to get csq.


Okay, thanks for the answer. I'll buy the block for my card


----------



## akira749

Some shots of the EK stuff in my S8 in it's almost final completion phase


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I don't mean to argue, Jakusonfire, but I don't see how the cyclone piece would restrict flow. Unless the cyclone inserts are positioned differently than mine (it can only fit the one direction), it's perpendicular to the inlet and outlet.


You misunderstand what is being said I think.
On the d5 res


The anti-cyclone has two legs that fit either side of the pump inlet

On the res X3

The anti-cylone fits into a full width gap in the centre because the inlet and outlet are lower down.

If you put a res x3 cylone into a d5 res it covers the pump inlet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> My pump is on two as the dial never worked since I recieved my system from FrozenCPU! I should have also stated that I was only testing the two 780ti I put on water blocks with the EK bridge to check for leaks so almost no flow restriction at all. So you think I don't even need the anti-cyclone device once it's in on a full loop? Your right Jakusonfire the smaller anti-cyclone is only on a two legs, am I not supposed to use the larger res with my D5 setup?


Its fine to use larger tubes with the d5 res. They specifically say that on the product page. I have one myself. The flow rate in a full loop will be much lower than it is just testing with one or two components and the standard cyclone should be fine to use.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You misunderstand what is being said I think.
> On the d5 res
> 
> 
> The anti-cyclone has two legs that fit either side of the pump inlet
> 
> On the res X3
> 
> The anti-cylone fits into a full width gap in the centre because the inlet and outlet are lower down.
> 
> If you put a res x3 cylone into a d5 res it covers the pump inlet
> Its fine to use larger tubes with the d5 res. They specifically say that on the product page. I have one myself. The flow rate in a full loop will be much lower than it is just testing with one or two components and the standard cyclone should be fine to use.


Thanks Jokusonfire, I'll just use the standard one when I'm up and fully running. I like the look of it better than the one that came with the larger reservoir anyway.


----------



## Destrto

Ohhh, Thanks for explaining that Jakusonfire, it makes sense what you were referring to now.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> My pump is on two as the dial never worked since I recieved my system from FrozenCPU! I should have also stated that I was only testing the two 780ti I put on water blocks with the EK bridge to check for leaks so almost no flow restriction at all. So you think I don't even need the anti-cyclone device once it's in on a full loop? Your right Jakusonfire the smaller anti-cyclone is only on a two legs, am I not supposed to use the larger res with my D5 setup?


Look at that dial a little closer, I thought the same thing when I got my first D5, but the flat head screw slot is NOT the indicator, there is actually a little arrow pointer that indicates speed setting, and what I thought was pointing at speed 2 was actually speed 5!

See, it looks like two, but you can just see the arrow actually pointing at 5.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Look at that dial a little closer, I thought the same thing when I got my first D5, but the flat head screw slot is NOT the indicator, there is actually a little arrow pointer that indicates speed setting, and what I thought was pointing at speed 2 was actually speed 5!


I'll have to check that when I get home, I still couldn't turn the dial with a small screw driver, I even disassembled the pump and tried to manually turn the red lever it really didn't seem to move. It's really hard to handle returns through FrozenCPU though, so I thought I might as well just deal with it.


----------



## Jimhans1

I edited my previous post with a pic for you.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Some shots of the EK stuff in my S8 in it's almost final completion phase
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks amazing - perfect color balancing


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I edited my previous post with a pic for you.


Thanks for the pic, I don't even need to get home that is exacly how my pump looks, so it must be on 5. Maybe that was why I couldn't turn the lever any higher, luckily I didn't break anything. Should I set it to a lower setting for any reason then? I think my RPM on Aquasuite was showing about 4400 for the pump.


----------



## Jimhans1

Nah, I leave my D5s at full speed #5, they are still quiet/silent, and perform well!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Looks amazing - perfect color balancing


Thanks! That was one of my main goals here


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Nah, I leave my D5s at full speed #5, they are still quiet/silent, and perform well!


Me too, still quieter than my PMP-400 from my Koolance bay-res at 60% from my Fractal rig lol.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Some shots of the EK stuff in my S8 in it's almost final completion phase
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great work! I love the straight lines and white fittings.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> For Derek,
> 
> When will the new EK 100ml concentrate become available in US shops? PPCS, Frozen etc?


PPCs and Frozen have them, although they are currently OOS on Frozen.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> How is EK's support? I have been emailing them about pre-purchase questions and they have been answering real quick. I emailed them two days ago about a problem with one of the products I bought and they have clamed up with no response now.


If you haven't heard still feel free to send another email and we'll get back to you asap. Our main support guy has been incredibly busy lately.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *babysnakes*
> 
> Lots of stuff on the net about NOT mixing metals in WC loops. Does anyone know what the EK Jet plates are made out of? It looks like cheap steel.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *babysnakes*
> 
> .... wouldn't it be nice if EK made them out of copper? I emailed them, but it seems they have no plans for it.


Stainless steel is perfectly safe and of high quality. I assure you they don't cause any problems in a loop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *babysnakes*
> 
> Anyone used EK fluids?


They're what we recommend to be used with our products 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> @derickwm
> Any news about if you guys are going to make a block for the Maximus VII Gene/Hero?


No solid confirmation as of right now.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Some shots of the EK stuff in my S8 in it's almost final completion phase
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great work! I love the straight lines and white fittings.
Click to expand...

Indeed


----------



## babysnakes

Thanks for the reply derickwm


----------



## pathfindercod

Thank you Derickwm. I did hear hear form support today. I am inventorying all my parts before starting my project and my EK asus RIVBE full motherboard block is missing washers. I tried locating them on the web in the US but could not find the size they said i needed so Peter said he would ship out the washers i need today. Thank you!


----------



## derickwm

No problem guys, glad to help


----------



## Nichismo

Finally made the change to acrylic tubing with links for every possible angle, attempted to make each pipe at least parrallel, perpendicular or "harmonious" with each other as possible. Originally, my intention was to have the outlet pipe thats currently angled 45 degrees into the GPU to be two pieces, with a 90 degree dual rotary link running parallel with the drain valve below it. However I ended up being slightly shorthanded with some of the fittings.

ive also been really resonating on the idea of a tube reservoir and a D5 pump configuration, as ive noticed im one of the few, at least from what ive seen, people to have a setup of this nature and to have a bay reservoir. The redundacy and space saving is nice, but the noise level of having dual DDC is starting to bother me, as is the heat. Additionally, I feel as though head pressure isnt at a premium with this particular res, as the pumps are facing down and the water is thus being "waded" through, rather then the weight and gravity assistence of a tube.

Would love any input or constructive criticism from all members!

thanks


----------



## Kimir

Thanks @derickwm for sharing my build on your Facebook!


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Finally made the change to acrylic tubing with links for every possible angle, attempted to make each pipe at least parrallel, perpendicular or "harmonious" with each other as possible. Originally, my intention was to have the outlet pipe thats currently angled 45 degrees into the GPU to be two pieces, with a 90 degree dual rotary link running parallel with the drain valve below it. However I ended up being slightly shorthanded with some of the fittings.
> 
> ive also been really resonating on the idea of a tube reservoir and a D5 pump configuration, as ive noticed im one of the few, at least from what ive seen, people to have a setup of this nature and to have a bay reservoir. The redundacy and space saving is nice, but the noise level of having dual DDC is starting to bother me, as is the heat. Additionally, I feel as though head pressure isnt at a premium with this particular res, as the pumps are facing down and the water is thus being "waded" through, rather then the weight and gravity assistence of a tube.
> 
> Would love any input or constructive criticism from all members!
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is some nice stuff. I like the way it al goes crisscross throug the case


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Thanks @derickwm for sharing my build on your Facebook!


Same here Derick! Thanks


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> That is some nice stuff. I like the way it al goes crisscross throug the case


thanks man! I wasnt intending that originally, but it turned out okay, and now your affirmation gives me resolution









I also must say as the pictures don't do it justice compared to up close, but man does the Blood Red Ekoolant look fantastic. Just intoxicatingly stunning eye candy, I almost always have my side panel off, and it has a window too!

EKWB =/= aesthetics =/= performance


----------



## khemist

My acetal/nickel classy block and nickel cpu block.


----------



## niklot1981

__
https://flic.kr/p/14153378287


----------



## VSG

Tetris time!


----------



## dredeziel1

I have a dream...But...My wallet said to wake the hell up dummy. Bills are due. And dont forget about your wife..


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> 
> I have a dream...But...My wallet said to wake the hell up dummy. Bills are due. And dont forget about your wife..


Someone in another thread brought this up, but what the heck is up with the choice of outputs? What is this...2011?


----------



## ARacoma9999

Hey, I changed my tubing recently and I noticed some kind of weird markings on my CPU block. I was thinking it might've been the deadwater I used. Anyone else have issues with deadwater doing some build up still?


----------



## wermad

Which tube ?


----------



## ARacoma9999

Primochill Primoflex Advaced


----------



## pathfindercod

I am about to start my build as soon as ek gets the washers here for my motherboard block that were missing.

Anyway, I was all set to go red / ek blood red. Now I'm thinking I want coolant that looks like antifreeze green. Does the ek uv line green look close to this and without any uv lights in the case. I don't want to put any lights in the case.

Thanks!


----------



## dredeziel1

pretty sure your gonna need uv lights to activate the uv color in the coolant..


----------



## pathfindercod

Kinda figured.. Thanks..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> Primochill Primoflex Advaced


Are they black streaks? If possible, drain your loop and check the inside of the tube. Look for some white or grayish film (or if you're running colored liquid, some pastel looking, almost pasty looking residue).


----------



## defiler2k

So I finally had enough time to actually complete my loop between investigations, travel and getting used to have a baby in the house.

I still need to ad the temp sensors and do cable management plus I have another GPU on the way but after arguing with pipe bending, missing components from my GPU block (that the reseller never addressed) and a bent casing on my XTX rad this was a challenging build and a test of my patience.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ARacoma9999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Are they black streaks? If possible, drain your loop and check the inside of the tube. Look for some white or grayish film (or if you're running colored liquid, some pastel looking, almost pasty looking residue).


Yes, they are black. But the tubing that caused it was actually the matte black tubing that came with my kit. Should I DC the loop again and check if this loop is doing it as well?


----------



## wermad

You're free to open up the blocks (if you don't have clear plexi) and inspect them. My Lightning blocks had some black streaks but they wiped off easily. Probably from the old LRT (non Advance) tube I was briefly using.

Most likely its some residue and you should be able to wipe it down. I would just use Advance tube from now on. A lot of the other stuff still craps out and causes leaching and then build up. Post pics if possible


----------



## ARacoma9999

Okay cool. Thanks for the help!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> Okay cool. Thanks for the help!


Np


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> So I finally had enough time to actually complete my loop between investigations, travel and getting used to have a baby in the house.
> 
> I still need to ad the temp sensors and do cable management plus I have another GPU on the way but after arguing with pipe bending, missing components from my GPU block (that the reseller never addressed) and a bent casing on my XTX rad this was a challenging build and a test of my patience.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice job! Clean loop I really like it!


----------



## gdubc

Gotta give a big







to EK for all the awesome custom blocks being added as oem on these high end cards. I got a look at the hydro coppers and thought they were cool, but that was apparently just the beginning...


----------



## jasjeet

Can one of the EK guys or someone who has the EK-DCP 2.2 X-RES incl. Pump combo help me with the dimensions?



Also can the Water IN port be on any of the 3 sides?

This is how im trying to fit the EK L120 Kit


Think i can get away without any fittings? The only dodgy hose will be the water out to the Radiator, maybe use a 90 degrees there? If so whats recommended to buy? Please be specific as i have no idea.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> Can one of the EK guys or someone who has the EK-DCP 2.2 X-RES incl. Pump combo help me with the dimensions?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also can the Water IN port be on any of the 3 sides?


For the dimensions, I will be able to mesure them when i'm back home tonight unless someone else give them to you before.

As for your question on the IN ports, yes you can choose any of the 3 inlets.


----------



## jasjeet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> For the dimensions, I will be able to mesure them when i'm back home tonight unless someone else give them to you before.
> 
> As for your question on the IN ports, yes you can choose any of the 3 inlets.


Excellent, much appreciated.

Otherwise, you guys think this will work?



Does the waterblock have specific inlet and outlet ports?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> Excellent, much appreciated.
> 
> Otherwise, you guys think this will work?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does the waterblock have specific inlet and outlet ports?


Ok here's the dimensions you asked...

Length : 132mm
Width : 62mm (that's the mounting plate width which is a bit larger than the reservoir base)
Height : 100mm

The loop you want to achieve looks good









The CPU block provided in the kit is the LTX version and on this block you can use any ports as inlet or outlet...what better suites your loop


----------



## Jayrrus

I am doing a build with 2x EVGA GTX 770 ACX. I have one block for the video cards. However, I am having trouble connect them with the EK-FC Bridge DUAL Parallel CSQ - Plexi bridge. Obviously they just don't connect naturally. What connectors do I need to make this happen? Thank you. I will post a link to my build log later.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayrrus*
> 
> I am doing a build with 2x EVGA GTX 770 ACX. I have one block for the video cards. However, I am having trouble connect them with the EK-FC Bridge DUAL Parallel CSQ - Plexi bridge. Obviously they just don't connect naturally. What connectors do I need to make this happen? Thank you. I will post a link to my build log later.


It depends...

If you have the Original CSQ block like this one


You should be ok but if you have the other kind of block like this one


You will need this bridge
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-dual-parallel.html


----------



## Destrto

Has anyone been able to try out the new Thermosphere VGA blocks? I just got mine in the mail and I've run into a snag..
Here's what I mean.


With the correct bracket for my GPU, and the correct metal spacers, I can still slide a post-it through.

(Yes, I'm aware the picture shows the block attached backwards, This was just to show that there is a space under the block)


----------



## derickwm

Is that with your 6850?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Is that with your 6850?


No, this is with my R9 270X.


----------



## derickwm

Ah. We just found out the r9 270(x), 7850/7870 and GTX450/5050 Ti are a tad lower. We will be addressing this with new standoffs. Apologies for this inconvenience, please create a support ticket on our website.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Ah. We just found out the r9 270(x), 7850/7870 and GTX450/5050 Ti are a tad lower. We will be addressing this with new standoffs. Apologies for this inconvenience, please create a support ticket on our website.


Good deal. Guess the response I received last night stating otherwise was premature then.

Also, Derick, would you happen to know why I am unable to view my attachment on my support ticket? I see the little plus sign next to it, but nothing happens when I click on it.


----------



## VSG

Derick, I just saw B-Neg posting a picture of the Ascendancy. Does this mean it is close to release now? Any details on pricing, availability, software as well as possible mounts for the PCB would be great.

P.S. It will go very nicely in my TX10-D so I will gladly do a review for free


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Ah. We just found out the r9 270(x), 7850/7870 and GTX450/5050 Ti are a tad lower. We will be addressing this with new standoffs. Apologies for this inconvenience, please create a support ticket on our website.
> 
> 
> 
> Good deal. Guess the response I received last night stating otherwise was premature then.
> 
> Also, Derick, would you happen to know why I am unable to view my attachment on my support ticket? I see the little plus sign next to it, but nothing happens when I click on it.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure why, what type of attachment is it?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Derick, I just saw B-Neg posting a picture of the Ascendancy. Does this mean it is close to release now? Any details on pricing, availability, software as well as possible mounts for the PCB would be great.
> 
> P.S. It will go very nicely in my TX10-D so I will gladly do a review for free


Closer to release. I don't really have any details to share with you besides that though lol. It's currently being tested by members of the community, that's about all I got.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'm not sure why, what type of attachment is it?


Just a photo that Customer Support requested.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Closer to release. I don't really have any details to share with you besides that though lol. It's currently being tested by members of the community, that's about all I got.


Ya, just saw B-Neg's thread (http://www.overclock.net/t/1494084/ek-ascendacy-community-test-thread/0_50). It is a typo there, ya?

I am looking forward to this a lot. At this point, there will be 52 fans in my case and, while the Aquaero is great and all, I want one controller for each rig.


----------



## Jayrrus

Thanx for the reply. However, Ek only does the SLI connector only in black. The waterblock are in black so i wanted to show off the fluid running through the cards. So I have to go with the EK-HD Adapter 12/16mm - Black. i am running the Z87 Sabertooth with 2 770's. Thanx i will put up a link later to the build log to GLaDos.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Once X99 and the Rampage V Extreme is released, I seriously hope EK will release a full AIO acrylic/nickel version just like how they did with the RIVE BE. Hopefully, it'll be released at the same time as the release of the motherboard. I'd pick one up at release if they release it pretty quickly.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> 
> 
> Once X99 and the Rampage V Extreme is released, I seriously hope EK will release a full AIO acrylic/nickel version just like how they did with the RIVE BE. Hopefully, it'll be released at the same time as the release of the motherboard. I'd pick one up at release if they release it pretty quickly.


So it is not just me that is as much basing my next build upon EK products as the parts they cool.


----------



## akira749

@derickwm I have 2 GTX770 block laying around here both are "cracked" near a bridge screw hole because I put to much strength when I put an FC-Terminal Dual on them. I find that very sad seeing them there doing nothing with it.

Can I buy only a replacement top for those blocks?


----------



## derickwm

Yes, if they aren't in our web store (sometimes tops don't quite always make it) then send support an email and they will work with you.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes, if they aren't in our web store (sometimes tops don't quite always make it) then send support an email and they will work with you.


Thanks Derick!!


----------



## Destrto

@derickwm, Is there any way I can get a customer support rep from the US to assist me with my current open tickets? I don't mean to be impatient or anything, but the time difference at the moment is causing the response time to be very long.


----------



## derickwm

Nonexistent unfortunately.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Nonexistent unfortunately.


Ah, ok. No worries then. Thanks.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> 
> 
> Once X99 and the Rampage V Extreme is released, I seriously hope EK will release a full AIO acrylic/nickel version just like how they did with the RIVE BE. Hopefully, it'll be released at the same time as the release of the motherboard. I'd pick one up at release if they release it pretty quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> So it is not just me that is as much basing my next build upon EK products as the parts they cool.
Click to expand...

Well, if until we get EK to make a TRUE AIO like this for the future Rampage V Extreme, I guess I'll settle for the current version of the AIO.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> 
> 
> Once X99 and the Rampage V Extreme is released, I seriously hope EK will release a full AIO acrylic/nickel version just like how they did with the RIVE BE. Hopefully, it'll be released at the same time as the release of the motherboard. I'd pick one up at release if they release it pretty quickly.


I've already deconstructed mine and gave it a black backing...

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2443.jpg.html


----------



## derickwm

:drool:


----------



## Red1776

I'm in

4x EK FC rev2.0 R290X FC Nickle/Acrylic with quad Terminal Bridge


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Once you go black....

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2445.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2449.jpg.html


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Seriously though, I wont be able to build my X99 Haswell-E build until I get my hands on the motherboard/CPU block so I seriously hope EK is quick on that release.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Once you go black....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2445.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2449.jpg.html


I like so much how did you do this??


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I like so much how did you do this??


Check out the last few post entries of my build.


----------



## akira749

Here's a few pictures of my finally completed S8 "Hurrikaine"!!! Enjoy



















A bit more in the build log :


----------



## niklot1981

__
https://flic.kr/p/14396163243


__
https://flic.kr/p/14189348969


__
https://flic.kr/p/14375048784


__
https://flic.kr/p/14372654661


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niklot1981*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/14396163243
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/14189348969
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/14375048784
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/14372654661


Love it!

and the Nietzsche quote in your sig


----------



## rwisdaman

Hello all,

I use an EK-Supreme LTX AMD CSQ for the CPU and EKoolant clear for the coolant itself.
Plans for the next build will use the same CPU block and coolant but looking into using more EK brand items.


----------



## iandroo888

all that prettiness ! my first stuff by EK !


----------



## cpachris

Love the fittings shot.

Put a cover on that pump!


----------



## iandroo888

can i still put a cover on?

*edit*

OOOH ! THERE IS ! EK-D5 Cover Kit (Black) Acetal !!!


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all that prettiness ! my first stuff by EK !


Wow, I really wasn't sure about the nickelplated part on the tops of the gpu blocks for the 290X, but your pics sure make them look good


----------



## ehhwhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Here's a few pictures of my finally completed S8 "Hurrikaine"!!! Enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bit more in the build log :


The sickness is strong with this one.


----------



## valkyrie743

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niklot1981*
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/14396163243
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/14189348969
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/14375048784
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/14372654661






nice. almost the same as malik's build over a xtream systems just he has a silver top cpu ek block
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?288019-cleanARC-by-Malik


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehhwhat*
> 
> The sickness is strong with this one.










Indeed


----------



## Jakusonfire

Testing some changes and new gear. EK PE rads, clean CPU top, D5 cover. I love the look of the rads so much better than the XT45's they replaced and temps seem better.


----------



## seross69

Looks good!!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> can i still put a cover on?
> 
> *edit*
> 
> OOOH ! THERE IS ! EK-D5 Cover Kit (Black) Acetal !!!


yep. fairly inexpensive also....and it definitely make it look nicer....


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> yep. fairly inexpensive also....and it definitely make it look nicer....


ooh definitely item to consider in future !







thanks


----------



## Papuz

hello guys, if you know there is any compatible block for my MB Asus P9X79 E-WS?


----------



## MeanBruce

Hey guys which mounting for the EK pump top and D5 do you like the best?

The first is very simple uses pump top base and the acetal threads to carry the weight of the pump and top and doesn't decouple the pump.

The second uses the EK D5 UNI mount and I replaced the stock anti-vibration feet with .5inch Sorbothane hemispheres to absorb energy (noise) from the pump and allows easy removal for maintenance.

Sorry for the blurred images.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7900_zps931474a5.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7902_zps1005d34f.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7242_zps521d4e05.jpg.html


----------



## sinnedone

Second option looks better to me.


----------



## rwisdaman

Same here with the 2nd option. I like the bracket look, gives it a little shelf to sit on.


----------



## niklot1981

Recent picture of my favorite motherboard from ASUS - Maximus IV Extreme with beautiful water block from EK, you with me for the last three years ... today is offered for sale ... goodbye old friend ...


__
https://flic.kr/p/14379897241


----------



## rwisdaman

I so want a mobo with the red accents like that, replacing my old 770T with something hopefully that has the FX990 in it. Only one I have found for an AMD cpu is the crosshair V.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Better lighting than the previous ones... Still working on using a better camera though.









http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2460.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2456.jpg.html


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I like clean block a lot,
> Specially the monarch ram block
> Again, sorry for pics, only my phone was available at this time
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Bloody Angel/image_zpsc3d5cb56.jpg.html


derrickrm - Are the Monarch's designed to be for the Dom Plats as well as the regular Dominators? I've been sitting on my Platinums for almost 3 months now, just finished modifying my RAM blocks, and removed the Dom Plat heatsinks less than an hour ago - only to discover that the Monarchs I bought two weeks ago fall short of covering up the RAM chipsets.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2462.jpg.html


----------



## Jimhans1

Downside to the Dominator Plats, besides being a corsair product, they use a REALLY tall PCB that makes them incompatible with the liquid blocks from every maker.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Downside to the Dominator Plats, besides being a corsair product, they use a REALLY tall PCB that makes them incompatible with the liquid blocks from every maker.


huh?

downside Corsair?

My Corsair PSU is one of the highest rated with ultra low ripple,

My corsair Dom Plats 2133 OC to 2600

My WC block has no interference issues at all with them.


----------



## szeged

the problem with corsair is....you can get everything they offer for cheaper if you buy from someone else.

my evga psu is just as good as pretty much any corsair psu

my gskill 2400mhz ram can hit 2600+ with low volts

the difference? i paid a lot less than i would have if i bought corsair lol.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the problem with corsair is....you can get everything they offer for cheaper if you buy from someone else.
> 
> my evga psu is just as good as pretty much any corsair psu
> 
> my gskill 2400mhz ram can hit 2600+ with low volts
> 
> the difference? i paid a lot less than i would have if i bought corsair lol.


I said my corsair 2133 hits 2600

I bet your EVGA PSU has more ripple

but I agree...cheaper is the operative term..


----------



## VSG

PSU ripple won't give you anything better as long as it is within a limit.


----------



## szeged

i only pushed my ram to 2600 to see how it went with some new settings i was trying out









also i bet you the evga doesnt have more ripple









all while cheaper again


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Downside to the Dominator Plats, besides being a corsair product, they use a REALLY tall PCB that makes them incompatible with the liquid blocks from every maker.


That's no bueno, seeing as I've already deconstructed and removed the heatsinks. I've already gotten this far, so maybe I can improvise somehow by incorporating the original heatshinks to cover up the exposed areas. I'm running 32gb with just the four sticks, so there's enough room between the sticks to figure out something.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i only pushed my ram to 2600 to see how it went with some new settings i was trying out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also i bet you the evga doesnt have more ripple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all while cheaper again


you don't know how much I paid

less ripple is better....and my 1200w PSU will produce and hold 1550w

and the benefit/vacation package at Corsair is great!


----------



## VSG

Wait, what? Are you saying your PSU is producing 1550w (not from the wall, but to the PC)?

Off topic discussion though!


----------



## szeged

unless you got it from the bargain bin, pretty much any evga psu is cheaper than any corsair psu for the same specs.

and my evga 1000w and 1300w and soon to be 1600w will hold just as much...maybe more









both are great brands, some people just prefer to pay less for the same thing


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> unless you got it from the bargain bin, pretty much any evga psu is cheaper than any corsair psu for the same specs.
> 
> and my evga 1000w and 1300w and soon to be 1600w will hold just as much...maybe more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> both are great brands, some people just prefer to pay less for the same thing


They could be the same OEM for that matter, mines a Flextronix

but!...did you get a poly brand case badge!? well...did ya..


----------



## szeged

mines a superflower oem lol









i got a cool box to put stuff i dont use in


----------



## VSG

Oh you two









Now stop before Derick comes in and spams us all to oblivion with Jennifer Lawrence gifs.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> unless you got it from the bargain bin, pretty much any evga psu is cheaper than any corsair psu for the same specs.
> 
> and my evga 1000w and 1300w and soon to be 1600w will hold just as much...maybe more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> both are great brands, some people just prefer to pay less for the same thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They could be the same OEM for that matter, mines a Flextronix
> 
> but!...did you get a poly brand case badge!? well...did ya..
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Wait, what? Are you saying your PSU is producing 1550w (not from the wall, but to the PC)?
> 
> Off topic discussion though!


No when JG reviewed it it held 1550w under load in the hot test, I am just giving szeged a bit of a hard time


----------



## szeged

lol


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> No when JG reviewed it it held 1550w under load in the hot test, I am just giving szeged a bit of a hard time


Last post here about this: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story3&reid=300

Where do you see 1550w? They tested it, successfully too, at 100% load of 1203w DC.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> lol


Ok, Ok, better get back on topic then:



4 x MSI R290X Game Edition

4x EK FC 290X Rev 2.0

1X EK quad Parallel Terminal

Here are mine....I think I paid too much..









Quote:


> Last post here about this: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story3&reid=300
> 
> Where do you see 1550w? They tested it, successfully too, at 100% load of 1203w DC.


Wrong model I have the AX 1200. In the review he was all jazzed that it was holding down 1548w I think it was.


----------



## VSG

Nice! But won't that 8350 bottleneck quad 290x cards? Even a 4770k is holding back dual 780 Ti KPEs in synthetic benchmarks in my rig.


----------



## rwisdaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are mine....I think I paid too much..


He thinks he paid too much?????

I just wish I could afford it!!!!!


----------



## szeged

yes back on topic, my kingpin card fueled by an EK block -





old pics but still fun to look at


----------



## VSG

Speaking of Kingpins and EK blocks,



Still wishing hard that they did a block like the FC-290x Lightning but don't blame them for listening to EVGA (who underestimated how hard we would push them on water lol). Well, now I need heatsinks for those memory VRMs to the left of the 3 caps at the end. I also wish EVGA went with dark capacitors in the future- yes, I am _that_ shallow.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Speaking of Kingpins and EK blocks,
> 
> 
> 
> Still wishing hard that they did a block like the FC-290x Lightning but don't blame them for listening to EVGA (who underestimated how hard we would push them on water lol). Well, now I need heatsinks for those memory VRMs to the left of the 3 caps at the end. *I also wish EVGA went with dark capacitors in the future- yes, I am* _that_ shallow.


omg im glad im not the only one rofl.

i know the evga capacitors are top notch quality, but omg i hate the red/silver that sticks out rofl


----------



## VSG

lol once you can't do better hardware wise, you begin to look at other things. Not sure that's good or bad though!


----------



## inedenimadam

*?*


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nice! But won't that 8350 bottleneck quad 290x cards? Even a 4770k is holding back dual 780 Ti KPEs in synthetic benchmarks in my rig.


heaven 4.0 @ 1080P



BTW, this is my project for anyone who wants to follow along as it progresses 

http://www.overclock.net/t/1473361/amd-high-performance-project-by-red1776


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *?*


*Poof* No more excellent EVGA warranty.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> *?*


Hell even a sharpie works. I sharpied all of the caps on my reference 780Ti. Also sharpied the edge of the PCB so it was black instead of that nasty tan colour.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> *Poof* No more excellent EVGA warranty.


liquid tape, or plastidip.


----------



## szeged

@lowfat

mind sharing a pic of the sharpied caps on the ref 780ti?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> @lowfat
> 
> mind sharing a pic of the sharpied caps on the ref 780ti?


I haven't taken a pic of it since I went and redid them with better coverage but here is an older one. I also threw heatshrink over the stock fan and LED connectors so the white didn't stick out.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-79-1.jpg.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> liquid tape, or plastidip.


Use that stuff everywhere. Even used them for the IO ports on the GPU. The silver stacked DVI connector stuck out like a sore thumb on an inverted ATX. Unfortunately this is the only pic I took where you can see it even remotely.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-34-6.jpg.html


----------



## szeged

turned out pretty good, ty for the pics.

now if i could make them a metallic black to match the rampage IV black capacitors


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> turned out pretty good, ty for the pics.
> 
> now if i could make them a metallic black to match the rampage IV black capacitors


I'm with szeged, that looks great

I might have t 'borrow that idea







....even on my much superior Corsair products hehehe


----------



## szeged




----------



## VSG

How easy is it to take off the liquid tape/plastidip from the caps if need be? They do look nice, I will admit.


----------



## szeged

soldering iron and some steady hands


----------



## Red1776

> Originally Posted by *szeged*












I mean overpriced that is


----------



## szeged

rofl


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> turned out pretty good, ty for the pics.
> 
> now if i could make them a metallic black to match the rampage IV black capacitors


spray tint might work well there if it adheres correctly, which I think it should.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How easy is it to take off the liquid tape/plastidip from the caps if need be? They do look nice, I will admit.


Depends on the brand of liquid tape. I've had some come right off like nothing and others be very hard like rtv sealants for cars. plasti dip "should" just peel off. Masking might be a bit of a chore though.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I have to admit, although I do like the RAM blocks, having the lower half of the Platinums stick out at the bottom of the Monarch heat sink plates is a bit unnerving. And to be honest, I'm not really liking it one bit.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How easy is it to take off the liquid tape/plastidip from the caps if need be? They do look nice, I will admit.


PlastiDip would be hard to pull off a PCB. But pulling them off the backside of the DVI / HDMI / Display ports would be relatively easy.


----------



## derickwm

:drool:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh you two
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now stop before Derick comes in and spams us all to oblivion with Jennifer Lawrence gifs.


My internet is too slow to use gifs 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How easy is it to take off the liquid tape/plastidip from the caps if need be? They do look nice, I will admit.


Acetone


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My internet is too slow to use gifs


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I'm with szeged, that looks great
> I might have t 'borrow that idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....even on my much superior Corsair products hehehe


If you say "Corsair psu" in the mirror 3 times, @shilka will show up and kill everyone.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I'm with szeged, that looks great
> I might have t 'borrow that idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....even on my much superior Corsair products hehehe
> 
> 
> 
> If you say "Corsair psu" in the mirror 3 times, @shilka will show up and kill everyone.
Click to expand...

I have no doubt, although he would have a tall order talking me out of my Flextronics built AX 1200W PSU


----------



## wermad

Exploring the Ascendacy block:







EK 1/2" barb & Phobya 3/8x1/2 compression. Pretty simple device. The contact points are on the rear:



From my understanding, this will eventually be nickel plated (along with a black pcb).


----------



## jasjeet

Can i use a silver kill coil instead of the EK Concentrated solution in the EK L120 kit? I think it may be better rather than use a dye for no reason with black tubing.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> Can i use a silver kill coil instead of the EK Concentrated solution in the EK L120 kit? I think it may be better rather than use a dye for no reason with black tubing.


Good ol' distilled water is good enough, but doesnt that kit come with fluid anyway?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Exploring the Ascendacy block:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK 1/2" barb & Phobya 3/8x1/2 compression. Pretty simple device. The contact points are on the rear:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From my understanding, this will eventually be nickel plated (along with a black pcb).


That thing looks awesome. Looks like you have a bent fan header though.


----------



## jasjeet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Good ol' distilled water is good enough, but doesnt that kit come with fluid anyway?


It comes with a concentrated solution of dye and biocide 100ml, then you have to add a litre of ditilled water. i was thinking to just use the distilled water and kill coil, as from what i read there is less maintenance when dies arent involved. But some sort of controversy with EK and kill coils at one point so im not so sure if you can do this?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Good ol' distilled water is good enough, but doesnt that kit come with fluid anyway?
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with a concentrated solution of dye and biocide 100ml, then you have to add a litre of ditilled water. i was thinking to just use the distilled water and kill coil, as from what i read there is less maintenance when dies arent involved. But some sort of controversy with EK and kill coils at one point so im not so sure if you can do this?
Click to expand...

I have never used a kill coil. I have used dye/biocide. I have issues with dye leaving colored desposits, where distilled water leaves no trace. So now I dont run anything but distilled, and have had zero issues. I have an ALL EK loop.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Good ol' distilled water is good enough, but doesnt that kit come with fluid anyway?
> That thing looks awesome. Looks like you have a bent fan header though.


Yeah, I took a few pics for qc issues. I bent them back. This one had a shot of the rear of the block.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> Can i use a silver kill coil instead of the EK Concentrated solution in the EK L120 kit? I think it may be better rather than use a dye for no reason with black tubing.


Per Derick, you can use silver and warranty still applies as long as you're the original purchaser.


----------



## jasjeet

So to confirm, if i use the silver kill coil like this http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Pulse-Modding-999-Silver-Kill-Coil-pid-13036.html#tabs
and distilled water, i dont need to add anything else? How often do you guys clean out your loops, and what would you recommend for a CPU only loop?

Also they recommend 2 kill coils per 1L of water, how many do you guys use?


----------



## wermad

One coil is fine for even large loops like mine. You don't need two. Most ppl go through a 6 month overhaul and break down their loop. If you take care of the loop properly, you can probably go a year without maintenance.


----------



## dredeziel1

ok im done with my build..Not as good as alot of rigs on here but this is what I got..


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> So to confirm, if i use the silver kill coil like this http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Pulse-Modding-999-Silver-Kill-Coil-pid-13036.html#tabs
> and distilled water, i dont need to add anything else? How often do you guys clean out your loops, and what would you recommend for a CPU only loop?
> 
> Also they recommend 2 kill coils per 1L of water, how many do you guys use?


I would recommend against using silver. In case you are not familiar with galvanic corrosion, the general idea is that dissimilar metals, when in electrical contact (via your water), causes corrosion. The worst offender is aluminum, and silver, brass, and copper (all common metals in a loop) are relatively close, silver is a bit farther from the other two.

I personally have an all-copper (even rads) loop and use distilled water with Primochill Liquid Utopia Bomb. I have had no problems in the past 6 or so months, you could try a different additive so long as it protects from both biological organisms and corrosion.

I have flushed my loop once after about three months of use, I plan on taking it apart and cleaning it in August.


----------



## pathfindercod

I like it, good job...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> ok im done with my build..Not as good as alot of rigs on here but this is what I got..


----------



## dredeziel1

Thx..Wife said I cant spend anymore money sooooo...This build gonna have to last me for a bit...


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> Thx..Wife said I cant spend anymore money sooooo...This build gonna have to last me for a bit...


By the looks of it, that shouldnt be a problem. Nice build!


----------



## dredeziel1

thx inedenimadam..this watercooling hobby is gonna get me in alot of trouble with the wifey..I got the bug...cant help it now..Im hooked..


----------



## MeanBruce

The EK concentrate is now available at PPCS and Frozen in the US.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1063&products_id=4090

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24686/ex-liq-413/_EK_Ekoolant_EVO_Concentrate_100mL_-_Blood_Red.html

Woooots


----------



## MeanBruce

Ok, I'll add a photo for greater umppph.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/M...EVO-Concentrate_all_1200_zps118300a1.jpg.html


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> thx inedenimadam..this watercooling hobby is gonna get me in alot of trouble with the wifey..I got the bug...cant help it now..Im hooked..


Your telling me. I am selling a vehicle to fund my next build!


----------



## MeanBruce

Here's the new EK concentrate, just brought it home from Performance PCs.com. The 100ml bottle is even smaller in person than in photos, so tiny EK knocked the price down to $9.99USD, but you still have to mix with 900ml distilled.

Wondering if I should have got the one with the green dye mixed in, using solid Norprene tubing and no reservoir but a color might show up as a leak much easier than clear, oh well another first timer dilemma non-dilemma, overthinking the entire process.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8110_zpsabe82d7a.jpg.html


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Wondering if I should have got the one with the green dye mixed in, using solid Norprene tubing and no reservoir but a color might show up as a leak much easier than clear


If there is a leak, a dye will indeed show up better, but can also be a bugger to clean up. I had a nice white Monsoon LED plug that is now blue, and the white sleeving became blue, because I didn't screw it in properly and it had a very slow leak, so didn't notice for ages.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

I have a question on the 45 degree psc adapters. I bought a few and I noticed some are alot looser than others. The looser ones can get pretty large gaps where the adapter is split. Will this cause leaks?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> I have a question on the 45 degree psc adapters. I bought a few and I noticed some are alot looser than others. The looser ones can get pretty large gaps where the adapter is split. Will this cause leaks?


Can you test it maybe with some spare fittings and tubing?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Installed my monoblock today.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2464.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2466.jpg.html


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Installed my monoblock today.
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2464.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2466.jpg.html


You have my like sir..The end..


----------



## pathfindercod

Gggrrrrr... Can't wait to start putting mine together...


----------



## wh0kn0ws

So I received my 780 classy block and back plate today and I opened the box for the back plate I noticed I'm missing all of the screws and washers. I ordered the block and back plate from performance pcs. How would I get replacement hardware?


----------



## DeXel

Maybe you're suppose to use block screws for backplate? I'm not sure because I didn't buy it. Contact PPCs, they'll take care of you.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Four screws have different heads than the screws for the block, otherwise I could use some from that. I'll email them in the morning.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> Can i use a silver kill coil instead of the EK Concentrated solution in the EK L120 kit? I think it may be better rather than use a dye for no reason with black tubing.


You can but it's not recommended.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> I have a question on the 45 degree psc adapters. I bought a few and I noticed some are alot looser than others. The looser ones can get pretty large gaps where the adapter is split. Will this cause leaks?


You should be fine. Just don't put excessive force on it while installing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Four screws have different heads than the screws for the block, otherwise I could use some from that. I'll email them in the morning.


If they don't get you the missing hardware, contact our support, ekwb.com/support.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> You have my like sir..The end..


The hard part in all of this is trying to come up with a symmetrical loop connection between the two RAM blocks and that monoblock... I'll eventually come up with something though.


----------



## Elmy

I took some pics. Sorry they are cell phone quality.

http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Elmnator/media/20140606_105502.jpg.html

Club3D 295X2's undergoing surgery 

The top one has all the black screws on the block replaced with Stainless steel screws. Just took this picture to show the difference between the 2.

http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Elmnator/media/20140607_090702.jpg.html

Here they are installed in my rig 

http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Elmnator/media/20140606_220033.jpg.html

Here is my setup at Intel's Infernal LAN last weekend. I won the CPU magazine mod contest while I was at the event. My computer will be on the front cover of a future issue of CPU magazine with a article written up about it.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

@derickwm If I find some m3-8 screws that look the same at a local hardware store can I use those for the back plate? Or do I need to use the ones that should have came with it?


----------



## derickwm

As long as they're the same size and style you'll be fine


----------



## bigbangSG

nid help guy why is my top cannot be fully closed?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Only two more connections and I can reconnect this to the rest of my (now revised) loop.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2482.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2479.jpg.html


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Only two more connections and I can reconnect this to the rest of my (now revised) loop.
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2482.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2479.jpg.html


Looking good so far..keep up the great work..


----------



## hiarc

Hey Derick,

Is it possible to get the acrylic tops for the Impact and 780 Classy blocks by themselves? I looked through the tops section in the store but nothing was found, could it be that you only provide replacements when something goes wrong?

I originally purchased the acetal versions, but I am making small changes to my loop soon and want to do white pastel; hence the question.


----------



## VSG

Derick, does this picture below mean we can use the same terminal with any of the clean CSQ blocks? Please tell me the answer is "Yes, and we will be making acrylic Terminals for multi GPU connections as well because you asked"


----------



## wermad

Yes it was announced when launched and I think the had a dual terminal bridge setup with two uni blocks for demonstration.


----------



## lowfat

Clear terminals are so hot. They are the most visible part of the blocks while in a system. No way in eff could I ever go back to acetal.


----------



## VSG

Ya, as long as they don't crack easy when tightening in all the screws I will definitely be getting clear terminals when they are out.


----------



## lowfat

I have never cracked acrylic from screws and I have dissembled my blocks like 5x each. When installing the screws just don't use any force on them. If there is any resistance at all, then the screw is all the way in.


----------



## VSG

True, I never really understood why so many people were getting cracks on the acrylic blocks so I figured it must have been a combination of possible manufacturing defects and user error. I went with acetal blocks for my cards because that was the only one available at the time.


----------



## wermad

Gentle turns are your friend. No need to over-torque stuff and thus possibly break something.

On a side note: got the Ascendacy controller to work, but not on my main machine







, lame


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Only two more connections and I can reconnect this to the rest of my (now revised) loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2482.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2479.jpg.html


So nice.....


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Derick, does this picture below mean we can use the same terminal with any of the clean CSQ blocks? Please tell me the answer is "Yes, and we will be making acrylic Terminals for multi GPU connections as well because you asked"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yes it was announced when launched and I think the had a dual terminal bridge setup with two uni blocks for demonstration.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Clear terminals are so hot. They are the most visible part of the blocks while in a system. No way in eff could I ever go back to acetal.


Yep. I will need one immediately....


----------



## Kinaesthetic

@derickwm, When are the clear terminals going to hit retailers like FCPU/PPCs in the states? I need that clear terminal on my classy block. Like NOW







. Holy heck that is sexy. The acetal terminal on the Nickle/Plexi block just looks so out of place >.>.


----------



## VSG

Get in line, cowboy


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Get in line, cowboy


No mercy. Plus, I'm still a Sooner's fan. Even though I live in Dallas.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Derick, does this picture below mean we can use the same terminal with any of the clean CSQ blocks? Please tell me the answer is "Yes, and we will be making acrylic Terminals for multi GPU connections as well because you asked"


I need this in my life. Like right now.


----------



## wermad

I recall Derick noting the difficulties in machining bridges in plexi, so it maybe a while our no plexi bridges. The csq quad frosted plexi bridge came out way after the csq acetal bridges launched.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> So nice.....


Thanks. I'm just happy I didn't have to settle for a crappy loop design to make up for the lack of symmetry in that monoblock. I think the central bend designs I came up with are sufficient enough to compliment the rest of my loop. I'm just glad I was able to pull it off using old acrylic bends I had previously botched up.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:
Originally Posted by *hiarc* 

Hey Derick,

Is it possible to get the acrylic tops for the Impact and 780 Classy blocks by themselves? I looked through the tops section in the store but nothing was found, could it be that you only provide replacements when something goes wrong?

I originally purchased the acetal versions, but I am making small changes to my loop soon and want to do white pastel; hence the question.









ekwb.com/support. If you go there and create a ticket we should be able to set you up with the tops you need.

Quote:
Originally Posted by *geggeg* 

Derick, does this picture below mean we can use the same terminal with any of the clean CSQ blocks? Please tell me the answer is "Yes, and we will be making acrylic Terminals for multi GPU connections as well because you asked"











They're universal bridges so yes this will be for use with any "clean CSQ" style blocks. However, multi GPU plexi terminals are a still a ways out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic* 


> @derickwm, When are the clear terminals going to hit retailers like FCPU/PPCs in the states? I need that clear terminal on my classy block. Like NOW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Holy heck that is sexy. The acetal terminal on the Nickle/Plexi block just looks so out of place >.>.


Soon™

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I recall Derick noting the difficulties in machining bridges in plexi, so it maybe a while our no plexi bridges. The csq quad frosted plexi bridge came out way after the csq acetal bridges launched.


^


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> ekwb.com/support. If you go there and create a ticket we should be able to set you up with the tops you need.
> 
> They're universal bridges so yes this will be for use with any "clean CSQ" style blocks. However, multi GPU plexi terminals are a still a ways out.
> 
> Soon™
> 
> ^


You ain't Blizzard Derick. Fess up!


----------



## Red1776

I still prefer full cover blocks.



.....EK of course


----------



## dredeziel1

overhauled
my Air 540 to a Fractal Arc Xl..End Result..


Any suggestions on what to do or not to do with my revamp build...something is missing and im not sure what it is...Help is welcome at this point...
Besides the cables behind my Res that needs to be tucked away. and more leds..Cable mgt is a pita with this case...but...Im loving it so far...What yall think about a 120 rad added?...Thoughts please..


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I still prefer full cover blocks.
> 
> 
> .....EK of course


Jelly on Wheat toast...Nice still


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> overhauled
> my Air 540 to a Fractal Arc Xl..End Result..
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on what to do or not to do with my revamp build...something is missing and im not sure what it is...Help is welcome at this point...
> Besides the cables behind my Res that needs to be tucked away. and more leds..Cable mgt is a pita with this case...but...Im loving it so far...What yall think about a 120 rad added?...Thoughts please..


yeah, put a 120 in the exhaust area











just my 2 cents  nice build


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I still prefer full cover blocks.
> 
> 
> .....EK of course


You've posted this same picture a few times now. When are we gotta seem them installed?!


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> yeah, put a 120 in the exhaust area
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just my 2 cents
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice build


thk you..120 it is ..was thinking that but didnt want to go overkill..


----------



## dredeziel1

Thinking my next step is gonna be PETG or Copper tubing...Leaning more at Cooper..dont see alot of that here...but what I have seen is awesome work...


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I still prefer full cover blocks.
> 
> 
> .....EK of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You've posted this same picture a few times now. When are we gotta seem them installed?!
Click to expand...

I am just having a bit of fun with a few here.

This is actually part of a two build project:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1473361/amd-high-performance-project-by-red1776

I am benching the MSI R290X game Editions with the stock Twin Frozr first, and then under water. It is a custom build with 5 rads, 3 pumps, Cosmos 2 case mods, and custom made items like such

Custom made poly resin LED embedded D5 pump facades



It is quite an undertaking , however with the sleeving being close to finished it is ramping up.

There is also a 7850K/NZXT Switch 810 Build with dual Graphics build as well, so It is a lot to get accomplished as its not just a build but an article as well so I have to keep track of and document everything as I go.

But to answer your original question, I am applying the blocks this weekend.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> Thinking my next step is gonna be PETG or Copper tubing...Leaning more at Cooper..dont see alot of that here...but what I have seen is awesome work...


I hope you do go with copper, the copper builds I have seen are some of the best looking builds here. I think B Negative has a tutorial in his sig line on how to go about it.


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I hope you do go with copper, the copper builds I have seen are some of the best looking builds here. I think B Negative has a tutorial in his sig line on how to go about it.


just looked..that dude has some sick builds.Chrome Cooper Pipes...Yo...Im all in...


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I hope you do go with copper, the copper builds I have seen are some of the best looking builds here. I think B Negative has a tutorial in his sig line on how to go about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just looked..that dude has some sick builds.Chrome Cooper Pipes...Yo...Im all in...
Click to expand...

yeah B is an amazing builder. His rigs have been nominated more than once for B.O.T.M, I forget how many times he has won. I talked to him last month for a bit, great guy, very helpful as well. he has a build coming up I am sure will win build of the month...if not the year


BTW, what is this "overkill" you speak of??


----------



## dredeziel1

Might have do do something dif with my build...dif color s
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> yeah B is an amazing builder. His rigs have been nominated more than once for B.O.T.M, I forget how many times he has won. I talked to him last month for a bit, great guy, very helpful as well. he has a build coming up I am sure will win build of the month...if not the year
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, what is this "overkill" you speak of??


having more rads than needed..


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> having more rads than needed..


OCN + Overkill = 1


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I am just having a bit of fun with a few here.
> This is actually part of a two build project:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1473361/amd-high-performance-project-by-red1776
> 
> I am benching the MSI R290X game Editions with the stock Twin Frozr first, and then under water. It is a custom build with 5 rads, 3 pumps, Cosmos 2 case mods, and custom made items like such
> 
> Custom made poly resin LED embedded D5 pump facades
> 
> 
> 
> It is quite an undertaking , however with the sleeving being close to finished it is ramping up.
> 
> There is also a 7850K/NZXT Switch 810 Build with dual Graphics build as well, so It is a lot to get accomplished as its not just a build but an article as well so I have to keep track of and document everything as I go.
> But to answer your original question, I am applying the blocks this weekend.


Thats pretty amazing, I'll be following your log.


----------



## dredeziel1

Switched cases from Air 540 (which i still love btw) to a Fractal Arc XL..Gotta say Im loving the case and the possibities for mods..Comments?


----------



## Eze2kiel

*Previus GPU: AMD HD7950 Vapor-X OC Edition*





*
Actual GPU: Zotac GTX 770*


Original EK skews (f*ckin' skews!)


Replace the original skews purchased by industrial hardware:


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> No mercy. Plus, I'm still a Sooner's fan. Even though I live in Dallas.


Boomer!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> Switched cases from Air 540 (which i still love btw) to a Fractal Arc XL..Gotta say Im loving the case and the possibities for mods..Comments?


IF you dont go with different tubing right away I have an idea. I'm really liking the all black, but the res kinda sticks out. I say tint the res and add more lighting.


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> IF you dont go with different tubing right away I have an idea. I'm really liking the all black, but the res kinda sticks out. I say tint the res and add more lighting.


I was thinking about Black for the Res but do you think that would be alot of black...even though im getting more led strips next week..?


----------



## dredeziel1

Oh..just added this to the front grill...


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> Oh..just added this to the front grill...


hey that's kinda TUF looking...


----------



## seross69

How about this for some EK Gear



EK full board RIVE motherboard blocks
EK Monarch Ram blocks
EK CPU Block
2 ea Titan Clean Blocks
2 400mm Reservoirs with Multiport tops
2 ea EK-D5 DUAL TOP G 1/4" CSQ - Black Acetal





Some Pictures of the Multiport Top



One of the 400mm Reservoirs lite up with LED's!!!


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> How about this for some EK Gear
> 
> 
> 
> EK full board RIVE motherboard blocks
> EK Monarch Ram blocks
> EK CPU Block
> 2 ea Titan Clean Blocks
> 2 400mm Reservoirs with Multiport tops
> 2 ea EK-D5 DUAL TOP G 1/4" CSQ - Black Acetal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some Pictures of the Multiport Top
> 
> 
> 
> One of the 400mm Reservoirs lite up with LED's!!!


Nope I dont like it..Take it back....Or give it all to me...And start all over...lol..


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> I was thinking about Black for the Res but do you think that would be alot of black...even though im getting more led strips next week..?


It's already alot of black, a little more wont hurt.









Just use the rest of the leds(white I hope) and it will look pretty good. Instead of an all white build it will be all black. Then just follow up with some daytime pics without any flash and you'll see the results.


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> It's already alot of black, a little more wont hurt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just use the rest of the leds(white I hope) and it will look pretty good. Instead of an all white build it will be all black. Then just follow up with some daytime pics without any flash and you'll see the results.


Gonna order some Mayhems X1 Coolant﻿ - 1 Liter - Oil Black and another Bitfenix Alchemy Connect 30 LED Light Strip - 600mm - White Monday..Might as well put a drain system in place seeing that for one, gonna need it now, and two, gonna need it laters..


----------



## Jayrrus

I have a the GTX 770 waterblock from EK. I screwed up putting it back and i messed it up the rubber washer for the waterblock. The rubber washer between the the ports and the block itself. How can i fix this? I have emailed EK already about the problem but i have to hear anything from them. What can I do to seal that port.

The rubber washer goes here.



I know I screwed up. What can I do to fix this?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayrrus*
> 
> I have a the GTX 770 waterblock from EK. I screwed up putting it back and i messed it up the rubber washer for the waterblock. The rubber washer between the the ports and the block itself. How can i fix this? I have emailed EK already about the problem but i have to hear anything from them. What can I do to seal that port.
> 
> The rubber washer goes here.
> 
> 
> 
> I know I screwed up. What can I do to fix this?


you are in luck. I just got 4 x EK FC blocks,but I went with a terminal quad bridge so I have extra rubber seals

PM me your address (i hope your in the US) and i will send you a new seal.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayrrus*
> 
> I have a the GTX 770 waterblock from EK. I screwed up putting it back and i messed it up the rubber washer for the waterblock. The rubber washer between the the ports and the block itself. How can i fix this? I have emailed EK already about the problem but i have to hear anything from them. What can I do to seal that port.
> 
> The rubber washer goes here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I screwed up. What can I do to fix this?


If you're in North America, you can buy these EK Replacement O-Ring - 15.0 x 1


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> Switched cases from Air 540 (which i still love btw) to a Fractal Arc XL..Gotta say Im loving the case and the possibities for mods..Comments?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very clean, love the dark scheme. Since you have the space i would go push/pull on the front radiator.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayrrus*
> 
> I have a the GTX 770 waterblock from EK. I screwed up putting it back and i messed it up the rubber washer for the waterblock. The rubber washer between the the ports and the block itself. How can i fix this? I have emailed EK already about the problem but i have to hear anything from them. What can I do to seal that port.
> 
> The rubber washer goes here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I screwed up. What can I do to fix this?


I did the same mistake before, surprisingly enough it never leaked. I noticed I had a missing o-ring after it had been installed for like 2 months.


----------



## lowfat

No such thing as too much black.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> No such thing as too much black.


Unless you have a white build. My black EK X3-RES holders looked really out of place in white build, with white acetal reservoir. I tried to paint them white, but with bad results.

Thankfully EK made ThinkCell, so I asked for white holders a few weeks ago, and now they will make them








http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/res-x3-holder-in-white


----------



## Destrto

Does anyone have any idea about how long it takes Slovenia post to make it to the US?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Does anyone have any idea about how long it takes Slovenia post to make it to the US?


Takes ~1 week to Spain, so I'd say least 2 weeks to the US, as it'll probably go through customs.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Unless you have a white build. My black EK X3-RES holders looked really out of place in white build, with white acetal reservoir. I tried to paint them white, but with bad results.
> 
> Thankfully EK made ThinkCell, so I asked for white holders a few weeks ago, and now they will make them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/res-x3-holder-in-white


This makes me happy.


----------



## doctakedooty

Thought I would post this here my first attempt at the polishing the csq. Plan on doing all my blocks. Not sure if I can get it any clearer or how I would.


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Does anyone have any idea about how long it takes Slovenia post to make it to the US?


I just received my package from ek Slovenia Saturday, just shy of two weeks on Monday. That was via USPS. I suppose DHL or another courier would get here faster.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> I just received my package from ek Slovenia Saturday, just shy of two weeks on Monday. That was via USPS. I suppose DHL or another courier would get here faster.


That sounds like customs issues or something. My last order took 3 days to get from Slovenia to Australia.


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That sounds like customs issues or something. My last order took 3 days to get from Slovenia to Australia.


I'm in the US.


----------



## wermad

Orders from another country are subject to customs/tariffs. I had a return parcel from Australia and US customs held it for about a month before releasing it.

Most shipments going standard international usually get passed along to your country's domestic postal service.

When I used to order from EK directly, 2-4 weeks was typical. Now, ppcs.com and fcpu.com have a lot that I really don't see the need to order directly from them unless they're the only one's with the item I'm looking for.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> I'm in the US.


The point was Australia is farther and its not really the carrier that is causing the long delay


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jayrrus*
> 
> I have a the GTX 770 waterblock from EK. I screwed up putting it back and i messed it up the rubber washer for the waterblock. The rubber washer between the the ports and the block itself. How can i fix this? I have emailed EK already about the problem but i have to hear anything from them. What can I do to seal that port.
> 
> The rubber washer goes here.
> 
> 
> 
> I know I screwed up. What can I do to fix this?
> 
> 
> 
> you are in luck. I just got 4 x EK FC blocks,but I went with a terminal quad bridge so I have extra rubber seals
> 
> PM me your address (i hope your in the US) and i will send you a new seal.
Click to expand...

Have you checked to confirm that? I don't believe the quad bridge comes with the seals, you just re-use the ones that came with the FC blocks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jayrrus*
> 
> I have a the GTX 770 waterblock from EK. I screwed up putting it back and i messed it up the rubber washer for the waterblock. The rubber washer between the the ports and the block itself. How can i fix this? I have emailed EK already about the problem but i have to hear anything from them. What can I do to seal that port.
> 
> The rubber washer goes here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I screwed up. What can I do to fix this?
> 
> 
> 
> If you're in North America, you can buy these EK Replacement O-Ring - 15.0 x 1
Click to expand...

^

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Does anyone have any idea about how long it takes Slovenia post to make it to the US?


Does it really take that long for you guys? What method do you use? Every time they send me a box it takes 2 business days to arrive in Boston from Slovenia. Even when it got "stuck" in customs.


----------



## Jimhans1

Same here, my orders usually get to California in 3-4 days if the product is in stock at EK.


----------



## akira749

With DHL it will take a few days (2-3) to arrive here in Canada


----------



## ProfeZZor X

The Loop-the-loop... coming to an amusement park near you.


----------



## Kimir

Sweet big block, but those (acrylic?) tubes between monobloc and rams







I think you should re-do them.


----------



## defiler2k

Quick question and I think I know the answer but better safe than sorry. Is it safe to say that the NVIDIA made 780ti's are reference? A buddy wants me to wc his rig and his card is nvidia branded. I looked at the PCB and it looks exactly the same as my EVGA 780ti so I feel the regular EK 780ti block should fit.


----------



## derickwm

Yes. Anything Nvidia makes is reference.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Sweet big block, but those (acrylic?) tubes between monobloc and rams
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you should re-do them.


I agree... It took me 6 tries just to perfect the one on the bottom left from the RAM to GPU, so my patience was running thin. Plus with very little E22 left, I have to conserve what I have. But in this case, I can probably swing a couple more pieces with the scrap E22 that I have laying around.

EDIT: Fixed now.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Definitely not as nice as most of the builds here, but I got my gpu under water this weekend. I really like how sturdy the EK classified block and backplate are. The EK PSC adapters worried me slightly, but they work pretty well. I'm considering getting a thicker rad up front when I have some extra money.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Quick question and I think I know the answer but better safe than sorry. Is it safe to say that the NVIDIA made 780ti's are reference? A buddy wants me to wc his rig and his card is nvidia branded. I looked at the PCB and it looks exactly the same as my EVGA 780ti so I feel the regular EK 780ti block should fit.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes. Anything Nvidia makes is reference.
Click to expand...

The Nvidia logo usually means the pcb is a reference design. Brand usually is on the cooler or the stickers on the back of the pcb. Nvidia and Amd do offer their own brand but typically to oem's.


----------



## Destrto

Thanks for the input on shipping, guys. I'm waiting on a replacement set of spacers for the Thermosphere. The ones that shipped with it, and the ones that came with the bracket, were the wrong size. These are coming straight from EK, so I just wanted a general idea about the transit time with them.


----------



## jasjeet

Bought the EK L 120 kit, but still not sure about using the included concentrated coolant (includes dye) or using silver kill coil or the PT Nuke stuff?


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> Bought the EK L 120 kit, but still not sure about using the included concentrated coolant (includes dye) or using silver kill coil or the PT Nuke stuff?


I did use a small amount of included coolent when i bought my kit.
I dissassemble my loop to add my gpu into it, and i noticed a lot of staining in my tubes and white residue, which was caused by the coolant.


----------



## jasjeet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> I did use a small amount of included coolent when i bought my kit.
> I dissassemble my loop to add my gpu into it, and i noticed a lot of staining in my tubes and white residue, which was caused by the coolant.


So what do you use now?


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> I did use a small amount of included coolent when i bought my kit.
> I dissassemble my loop to add my gpu into it, and i noticed a lot of staining in my tubes and white residue, which was caused by the coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> So what do you use now?
Click to expand...

I use mayhems pastel.


----------



## Klockwork

Hi guys. I know that EKWB state that they don't have any products that work with the Asus Gryphon z87, but is it possible that the MOSFET block from the Asus GENE VI could be attached to the Gryphon board?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Klockwork*
> 
> Hi guys. I know that EKWB state that they don't have any products that work with the Asus Gryphon z87, but is it possible that the MOSFET block from the Asus GENE VI could be attached to the Gryphon board?


Not recommended.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> Bought the EK L 120 kit, but still not sure about using the included concentrated coolant (includes dye) or using silver kill coil or the PT Nuke stuff?
> 
> 
> 
> I did use a small amount of included coolent when i bought my kit.
> I dissassemble my loop to add my gpu into it, and i noticed a lot of staining in my tubes and white residue, which was caused by the coolant.
Click to expand...

White residue is definitely not from the coolant. What are you not sure about exactly? We 100% recommend you to use it with our products (and any other copper/nickel products), especially compared to the silver kill coil.


----------



## Klockwork

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Not recommended.


Oh well, thanks for clearing that up!


----------



## MeanBruce

Loving the EK watercooling thread much more.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8230_zps3af6aee4.jpg.html


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Klockwork*
> 
> Hi guys. I know that EKWB state that they don't have any products that work with the Asus Gryphon z87, but is it possible that the MOSFET block from the Asus GENE VI could be attached to the Gryphon board?
> 
> 
> 
> Not recommended.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> Bought the EK L 120 kit, but still not sure about using the included concentrated coolant (includes dye) or using silver kill coil or the PT Nuke stuff?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I did use a small amount of included coolent when i bought my kit.
> I dissassemble my loop to add my gpu into it, and i noticed a lot of staining in my tubes and white residue, which was caused by the coolant.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> White residue is definitely not from the coolant. What are you not sure about exactly? We 100% recommend you to use it with our products (and any other copper/nickel products), especially compared to the silver kill coil.
Click to expand...

I am not 100% sure that the white stuff was caused by the koolant, but it appeared soon after i added it.
It might also be a plasticizer but who knows. I also noticed that one of my ek-pcs fitting had a piece of nickel plating missing from the inside, but never found the piece.


----------



## Pheozero

Quick question, I'm thinking of picking up a 2nd 290 but it looks like it's going to be a Asus DC2 version and I know those ones have custom PCB. I have a ref 290 with a block already and was wondering if the two blocks would match up heightwise because I want to connect them with crystal links. Can anyone help me out?


----------



## wermad

Looks like the ports will not line up since the asus is wider and positions them slight outward.


----------



## Pheozero

Yeah, looks like you're right, unfortunately. Hmm, don't know what I'm going to do now. Might just look for another ref 290.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Yeah, looks like you're right, unfortunately. Hmm, don't know what I'm going to do now. Might just look for another ref 290.


I made that mistake with my 7970s...


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Yeah, looks like you're right, unfortunately. Hmm, don't know what I'm going to do now. Might just look for another ref 290.


Always go for match cards when going water cooling. I always go for Reference cards.


----------



## kickmic

Moved to WC for cool temps and total silence. Fans run under 750RPM, so added blocks to the mobo due to lack of internal airflow.

Was able to pick up EK blocks locally, but now no EK compression fittings sold in Australia???


----------



## Boywonder2323

Hi there everyone,
I had a quick question that the Google machine couldn't answer. What are the mounting hole dimensions (spacing) of the M5F motherboard blocks? (both chipset and mosfet) Thanks for your help!


----------



## jasjeet

Some pictures of installation of the EK L120 kit. Unfortunately one of the springs for the CPU block was missing, so I need to wait for a replacement.


----------



## jasjeet

Anyone from EK could help me? My retailer scan.co.uk has emailed you yesterday but no reply yet. Just need a water block mounting spring.


----------



## pathfindercod

Email support they usually answer real quick. My CPU monoblock was missing washers. Tech support answered pretty fast and mailed them out the same day.


----------



## jasjeet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Email support they usually answer real quick. My CPU monoblock was missing washers. Tech support answered pretty fast and mailed them out the same day.


Thanks ive done that now.
Weirdly i have an extra washer, but a missing spring, so must of been a mix up.

Edit
Sorted by their online support, just going to take a week to get here =(


----------



## akira749

@derickwm Do you have some news on the release of the block for the 780Ti Matrix. Last news was second half of may.

Thanks


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> @derickwm Do you have some news on the release of the block for the 780Ti Matrix. Last news was second half of may.
> 
> Thanks


Hmm that's a good question. I'll find out for ya.


----------



## derickwm

Apparently they're already manufactured and are currently being plated!  Should be available to purchase next week. Both the 290X and 780 Ti Matrix.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Apparently they're already manufactured and are currently being plated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be available to purchase next week. Both the 290X and 780 Ti Matrix.


Fantastic....I just missed a deal on a new 780Ti Matrix....but I'm still looking


----------



## Pheozero

When are the Matrix cards supposed to be released?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> When are the Matrix cards supposed to be released?


I don't know. The one I had my eyes on was from a reviewer


----------



## pathfindercod

My new build with 99% ek parts. Unfortunately I had to use a few fittings from another company because ek doesn't offer some of the options needed.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1496953/build-log-case-labs-mercury-s8-will-update-with-a-name-soon-big-build-for-me#post_22443534


----------



## VSG

Hey Derick, have you guys received x99 motherboards, DDR4 sticks and Haswell-E chips for block compatibility?


----------



## Jayrrus

The rumor for those DDR4 n those haswell-e boards is Q4 2014


----------



## VSG

September is what I have been hearing, but it could well be a paper launch like Devil's Canyon is.


----------



## Hand_Grenade

Just got my pump-res combo in the mail and installed. I forgot how quiet D5 are. I always have to touch and feel the rumble to make sure the pump is going. Far better than the MCP355 I was using as a quick fix to my old D5.


----------



## VSG

Just saw this EK survey and figured I should share in here: https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/3JJGJZS

I like that more companies are taking feedback on future products now (or at least pretending to do so lol).


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just saw this EK survey and figured I should share in here: https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/3JJGJZS
> 
> I like that more companies are taking feedback on future products now (or at least pretending to do so lol).


Done. I love EKWB.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just saw this EK survey and figured I should share in here: https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/3JJGJZS
> 
> I like that more companies are taking feedback on future products now (or at least pretending to do so lol).
> 
> 
> 
> Done. I love EKWB.
Click to expand...

 Yeah,ya know I am getting there too. I ran into the MSI R290X Twin Frozr

Game Edition needing a special revised block for the larger caps MSI used and I have never had a company so responsive and helpful in letting me know when the new blocks would be released and following up. In the case it was a fellow named Peter Sajn.


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just saw this EK survey and figured I should share in here: https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/3JJGJZS
> 
> I like that more companies are taking feedback on future products now (or at least pretending to do so lol).


Done! I love EK design
but dont like what they do WB almost only for Asus mobo


----------



## VSG

Make sure to let them know there are enough buyers of other boards too!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Yeah,ya know I am getting there too. I ran into the MSI R290X Twin Frozr
> Game Edition needing a special revised block for the larger caps MSI used and I have never had a company so responsive and helpful in letting me know when the new blocks would be released and following up. In the case it was a fellow named Peter Sajn.


are they going to relase new blocks for 290?


----------



## wermad

There's a v2 290/290x block for the non reference msi and gb hawaiis.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Yeah,ya know I am getting there too. I ran into the MSI R290X Twin Frozr
> Game Edition needing a special revised block for the larger caps MSI used and I have never had a company so responsive and helpful in letting me know when the new blocks would be released and following up. In the case it was a fellow named Peter Sajn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> are they going to relase new blocks for 290?
Click to expand...

 I got these for my MSI R290X Game edition twin frozr

(uses the larger caps)

I believe they are compatible with the 290's as well.

(Check the EK comp list though

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109869024

*EK MSI / Gigabyte Radeon R9-290X VGA Liquid Cooling Block Rev 2.0 - Nickel (EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel (Rev.2.0))*


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I got these for my MSI R290X Game edition twin frozr
> (uses the larger caps)
> 
> I believe they are compatible with the 290's as well.
> (Check the EK comp list though
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109869024
> 
> *EK MSI / Gigabyte Radeon R9-290X VGA Liquid Cooling Block Rev 2.0 - Nickel (EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel (Rev.2.0))
> *
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i see its same block with some modifications and works with all reference cards also newer msi and gigabyte cards


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I got these for my MSI R290X Game edition twin frozr
> (uses the larger caps)
> 
> I believe they are compatible with the 290's as well.
> (Check the EK comp list though
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109869024
> 
> *EK MSI / Gigabyte Radeon R9-290X VGA Liquid Cooling Block Rev 2.0 - Nickel (EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel (Rev.2.0))*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i see its same block with some modifications and works with all reference cards also newer msi and gigabyte cards
Click to expand...

Yup, the only difference is it's carved out for taller caps in the VRM area.

not bad for flotsam ey? hehe


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Yup, the only difference is it's carved out for taller caps in the VRM area.
> 
> not bad for flotsam ey? hehe










did you install yours?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Yup, the only difference is it's carved out for taller caps in the VRM area.
> 
> not bad for flotsam ey? hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did you install yours?
Click to expand...

I am working on that now. As soon as my wife gets home I am off to Micro center to replace my MIA IC Diamond. ( truth is I probably had a senior moment and put in the wrong bin)


----------



## wermad

The Gelid stuff ek includes is pretty good.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The Gelid stuff ek includes is pretty good.


Hey wer,

This is what I got.

are you talking about this stuff? or did they change it up?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Hey wer,
> This is what I got.
> are you talking about this stuff? or did they change it up?


Hmmm...thought it came with Gelid. I got mine with my Supremacy. Just checked the instructions and it does match what you have there. Not sure if this is the same stuff, ?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Hey wer,
> This is what I got.
> are you talking about this stuff? or did they change it up?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm...thought it came with Gelid. I got mine with my Supremacy. Just checked the instructions and it does match what you have there. Not sure if this is the same stuff, ?
Click to expand...

Yeah, me too neither. I'm going to see if its a re-brand. it would take a lot to talk me out of my IC Diamond, but I have used the Gelid and its good stuff.


----------



## Blackspots

Gonna subscribe to this thread, since I plan on building my water cooling setup with EK parts.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just saw this EK survey and figured I should share in here: https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/3JJGJZS
> 
> I like that more companies are taking feedback on future products now (or at least pretending to do so lol).


I went ahead and took the challenge survey and gave my honest opinion about their products... It's all gravy baby.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The Gelid stuff ek includes is pretty good.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Hey wer,
> This is what I got.
> are you talking about this stuff? or did they change it up?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Hey wer,
> This is what I got.
> are you talking about this stuff? or did they change it up?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm...thought it came with Gelid. I got mine with my Supremacy. Just checked the instructions and it does match what you have there. Not sure if this is the same stuff, ?
Click to expand...

If i remember, the CPU Blocks are delivered with the Gelid and the GPU Blocks with the Ectotherm. @derickwm could probably tell if i'm right or if I slowly become crazy


----------



## jasjeet

Gelid Extreme was what i got in the box, hows that compared to AC MX4? As i have MX4 at hand too.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> Gelid Extreme was what i got in the box, hows that compared to AC MX4? As i have MX4 at hand too.


It is better than MX4. Pretty much the best non-metal, non-conductive TIM on the market atm (barring Graphene-based TIMs).


----------



## derickwm

You are correct Akira


----------



## wermad

Found this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> It's MX-2 performance level, +/- 0.1°C, but not made by Arctic Cooling.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1418889/ek-tim-ectotherm-enclosed-with-waterblocks-any-experiences

edit:

Here's a Tom's review (lets hold off the site criticism and joking







):

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,3616.html



Looks MX-2 still is very bawz. Damn, just got a 25g tube (for cheap) of Ceramique2 ....


----------



## Kokin

Did the survey.









I love EK blocks, but I believe in mixing all brands. Just from my watercooling stuff, I use: EK, XSPC, Bitspower, Enzo, Swiftech, Primochill and Alphacool. Ideally (if I had the money), I would go with EK blocks + pump + res, XSPC radiators, and Bitspower fittings.


----------



## akira749

I also did the survey yesterday,

EK is always my first choice and Bitspower is my second mainly in terms of fittings and pump accessories. Since EK keep is colors in silver, black nickel and matte black, when you want to go a little different then you don't have choices.

In my next build, I might go all EK since my fittings color will probablye be black nickel or silver. And I like their new upcoming hard tube fittings.

The rads is always another story...since some cases gives you restrictions in terms of thickness. In the next build it will a battle between the PE rads and the upcoming slim Darkside rads.

But Blocks wise EK always gets the crown


----------



## Kokin

We all have our preferences, but EK blocks seem to be the best in aesthetics, performance and price.


----------



## wermad

I got my gpu's with the only blocks made for them: csq. So I decided to make all my blocks csq







.

Ek continues to grow, and it's a sign of their success.

Keep up the great work at *E*dward *K*onig (think I spelled it right







)!

Maybe ek should pick up the license to GT fans


----------



## derickwm

Edvard*


----------



## wermad

Edvard = Edward, same thing imho, just English version. Why ppl call him Eddy I guess







. I got to chat him a few years ago about a block. Wasnt sure about his last name so I made an educated guess









Btw,

You shipping your "htpc" to luskah?


----------



## derickwm

No







it costs too much







back to the strict laptop life. At least it's not a Chromebook this time though! MSI GS70 ftw


----------



## wermad

Did you get a controller? Hook it up to your lapi?


----------



## derickwm

Nah, I told them not to send me one. Waste of time/money. It'd just sit in a box for 3 months honestly. I have no fans or pumps up here either.


----------



## mus1mus

@derickwm I'm using the old EK Supreme HF Copper-Plexi and would need some info you can give.

I know it may have been asked before, sadly, search options cannot point me into the direct answer. So here it goes,

Which jet plate is recommended for AMD CPUs? You might know best on this.









Also, I noticed a huge load temp difference when installing the block horizontally ( water channels path inline with the X-Axis ) and Vertically ( water channels path along the Y-Axis ). Where, the former performs 3-5 Degrees Celsius better on my numerous mounts. So I don't think it's a margin of error and sort..

So yeah.


----------



## GringoKillah1

*derickwm*
Well... I ask this again...
Why I don't see *EK-DDC Dual TOP V.2* in EKWB shop, i need it without Pump, just top.
Or this product are - End of life?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> @derickwm I'm using the old EK Supreme HF Copper-Plexi and would need some info you can give.
> 
> I know it may have been asked before, sadly, search options cannot point me into the direct answer. So here it goes,
> 
> Which jet plate is recommended for AMD CPUs? You might know best on this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I noticed a huge load temp difference when installing the block horizontally ( water channels path inline with the X-Axis ) and Vertically ( water channels path along the Y-Axis ). Where, the former performs 3-5 Degrees Celsius better on my numerous mounts. So I don't think it's a margin of error and sort..
> 
> So yeah.


Hmmm, the instructions don't have anything. I recall putting the stock one that came with the block pre-installed. I would wait for Derick to find out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> *derickwm*
> Well... I ask this again...
> Why I don't see *EK-DDC Dual TOP V.2* in EKWB shop, i need it without Pump, just top.
> Or this product are - End of life?


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_770&products_id=27149

It could be EOL for a couple of reasons:

-ppcs.com has it discounted/special which usually means clearing old inventory.
-its got the old "EK" design (called "classic"), a couple of design generations behind.

They also have a white acetal.


----------



## GringoKillah1

*wermad*
Thx. i saw it in this shop, but shipping to Ukraine its too long and have werry hagh price


----------



## wermad

Check with the EU shops. Pricing for shipping can be killer firm the US, but you may be able to avoid VAT (which may end up costing you about the same).


----------



## GringoKillah1

*wermad*
I check 4 shops - SpecialTech and EKWB, Aquatuning.de and HighFlow.... Nothing... Only in Overhard.ru this top in stock but they dont delivery to Ukraine.


----------



## wermad

Just saw ppcs.com, and shipping will double the price of the top


----------



## dredeziel1

Hey guys..Can you use EK Ekoolant EVO Concentrate
- Lime Green in EK EKoolant Premium Liquid Cooling Premix Coolan
t to change to color without messing up the Coolant itself?..


----------



## derickwm

Mmm why? Just dilute it with regular distilled, it's cheaper?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hmmm, the instructions don't have anything. I recall putting the stock one that came with the block pre-installed. I would wait for Derick to find out.


Yeah, searching for info about this just gave me: Plate 6 for 2011, Plate 3 for 1156..

Anyway, Jet plates will probably just shave off a couple of degrees but it's just assuring to know which should perform best..


----------



## wermad

Well, did a quick google search and it seems with the Supreme HF, the plates were more designed with the type of loop/flow you had. Most say to use #1 for the best performance. I think they were not specific to a cpu like the Supremacy. Since mine came with #1 installed, I used that on a 955BE and later on with my i7 950.


----------



## Skyddsskor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> @derickwm I'm using the old EK Supreme HF Copper-Plexi and would need some info you can give.
> 
> I know it may have been asked before, sadly, search options cannot point me into the direct answer. So here it goes,
> 
> Which jet plate is recommended for AMD CPUs? You might know best on this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I noticed a huge load temp difference when installing the block horizontally ( water channels path inline with the X-Axis ) and Vertically ( water channels path along the Y-Axis ). Where, the former performs 3-5 Degrees Celsius better on my numerous mounts. So I don't think it's a margin of error and sort..
> 
> So yeah.


I pair the block with plate number one.
FYI I use AMD Phenom II X6 @3.8GHz


----------



## mus1mus

I'm using plate #1 as well with AMD FX 8320 at 5GHz 1.63 volts.

Anyone else trying different orientations for the block?
Quote:


> Also, I noticed a huge load temp difference when installing the block horizontally ( water channels path inline with the X-Axis ) and *Vertically ( water channels path along the Y-Axis )*. Where, the former performs 3-5 Degrees Celsius better on my numerous mounts. So I don't think it's a margin of error and sort..[\Quote]


----------



## GringoKillah1

Guys, EK-RES X3 - TUBE will fit in to EK-DDC X-RES?


----------



## CasP3r

I received this beauty yesterday.











http://imgur.com/Xw2muoe





http://imgur.com/KkUY0Zc





http://imgur.com/AHTqQ6X





http://imgur.com/MlpMxpR





http://imgur.com/1wdKBUT





http://imgur.com/B2a7TOY





http://imgur.com/bFKoAT7





http://imgur.com/Ujw78v2





http://imgur.com/j5TFSWO





http://imgur.com/h03jpYs





http://imgur.com/TWMem80





http://imgur.com/jSghGja


----------



## Kimir

Those pictures are beautiful and so are the block!


----------



## CasP3r

Thanks a lot Kimir, I appreciate it!







Now if I only had the rest of my components to actually start building my system... This waiting is killing me slowly but surely.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> I received this beauty yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Xw2muoe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/KkUY0Zc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/AHTqQ6X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/MlpMxpR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/1wdKBUT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/B2a7TOY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/bFKoAT7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Ujw78v2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/j5TFSWO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/h03jpYs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/TWMem80
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/jSghGja


Awesome! You're gonna love them.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Guys, EK-RES X3 - TUBE will fit in to EK-DDC X-RES?


I imagine you mean this pump combo

And this tube type

If so then yes they do fit together.


----------



## CasP3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Awesome! You're gonna love them.


Now if I only had as many of them as some other people do...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> Now if I only had as many of them as some other people do...


























It's not the quantity that matters but the quality


----------



## GringoKillah1

*defiler2k*
yes i mean it, thx for answer


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not the quantity that matters but the quality


It's not the size of the ship.....it's the motion of the ocean.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not the quantity that matters but the quality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not the size of the ship.....it's the motion of the ocean.
Click to expand...

Thats just something guys with small boats say.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Thats just something guys with small boats say.


Wait....are we talking about actual boats here?


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Guys, EK-RES X3 - TUBE will fit in to EK-DDC X-RES?



My bad


----------



## nepToon

I bought the complete new X-res instead of a smaller res tube.
Atleast I can sell the old pump with the old res as a complete package.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> It's not the size of the ship.....it's the motion of the ocean.










indeed


----------



## pathfindercod

Ok so my D800e is at Nikon getting its annual clean, adjust and tuneup. So i am using my d600 and it is riddled with sensor spots from the shutter recall. So i cleaned up these the best i could and will reshoot some better high res shots when he my d800e gets back.

My new pr0n I shot:

Part shots I took today before starting the install...

EK PORN

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5059-2_zpsc4361e54.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5064_zps84784708.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5057-Edit-2_zpsfa0b4549.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5051-2_zpsf74b01c4.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5050-Edit-2_zps1fb16881.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5053-2_zps181ce269.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5099-Edit-2_zps0f9bcc0b.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5102_zps4515b1fc.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5107-2_zps8d8deab4.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5109-2_zps8743433d.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5114-2_zps1fe4cf8d.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5116-2_zpsb36f2719.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5122-2_zps55613446.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5125-2_zps6848918a.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5127-Edit-2_zps598e859c.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5133-Edit-2_zps03acd3c2.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5137-2_zps1f5fec6f.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5141-Edit-2_zpseae3e1d2.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5143-2_zpse5ec0322.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5147-3_zps1c7eff84.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5150-2_zps29a69101.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5154-2_zpsa23957bd.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5166-Edit-2_zps02bf4184.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5174-2_zps452bd165.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5178-2_zps3fbf6ea5.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC5188-2_zpsc4828718.jpg.html


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Wow! Great pictures! What does your setup look like? Are you using a backdrop or a light box or what? You know, a picture would help out a ton!









I ask because I'm trying to improve my picture taking skills.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## derickwm

:drool:


----------



## Jakusonfire

EK PE rads just look better with every new shot I see. I switched from XT45's just based on looks alone and willing to take a slight performance hit but if anything my water temps are lower.

I'll never buy a boring rad again.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> EK PE rads just look better with every new shot I see.


If only they did them in white; vote here http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/radiators-painted-in-white


----------



## Jakusonfire

The removable shroud makes painting them, whatever colour you like, easy.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The removable shroud makes painting them, whatever colour you like, easy.


Yes, as you can see from my photo










I also made the holes bigger so that I didn't need the EK-extenders.

But it would be also nice if they came painted white from factory


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Yes, as you can see from my photo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also made the holes bigger so that I didn't need the EK-extenders.
> 
> But it would be also nice if they came painted white from factory


Yeah I guess so. Its just hard enough to get any in stock at all local to me.

I'm thinking about copying your port mods and and installing temp sensors under the shrouds too.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

@pathfindercod welcome to the EK R4BE Monoblock club. It's good to see more people with these amazing blocks. Much better looking than the new Bitspower version (IMO).


----------



## akira749

The Sun + EK = Awesome!!!


----------



## kpoeticg

Wow, great shot. Definitely looks awesome


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Thought I would post this here my first attempt at the polishing the csq. Plan on doing all my blocks. Not sure if I can get it any clearer or how I would.


See the Polishing Acrylic Tips & Tricks thread.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I don't know. The one I had my eyes on was from a reviewer


I could have had first dibs on this card if I wanted.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The Sun + EK = Awesome!!!


----------



## GringoKillah1

Third day status of my order in EK shop - Processing... Its normal?


----------



## jasjeet

Got the spring from EK and resumed installation of the EK L120 Kit. The pump was loud at the start, I think because air was in the loop, but now it's fine.





I'm using a Panaflo 38mm fan as push and the EK fan as pull. With all fans at around 600rpm I'm getting slightly worse performance than the H80i at 2400rpm







. So not bad at all!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I could have had first dibs on this card if I wanted.










I'm still thinking about that missed opportunity


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Third day status of my order in EK shop - Processing... Its normal?


If there's anything out of stock, then yes. You'll be in a queue while that item is being made/assambled.


----------



## GringoKillah1

*kcuestag*
When i order all was in stock, and even now its in stock


----------



## CasP3r

I received two Coolstream PE radiators, a 240 and a 360 for my build. The 360 was just as I expected, but the 240 has black G1/4 extenders instead of silver ones that I was expecting.







What's up with that?



http://imgur.com/TRwKKc6


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> I received two Coolstream PE radiators, a 240 and a 360 for my build. The 360 was just as I expected, but the 240 has black G1/4 extenders instead of silver ones that I was expecting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's up with that?
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/TRwKKc6


The ones with the silver extenders are Gen1 and the ones with the black extenders are Gen2 if i'm not mistaken.

@derickwm might be able to confirm it


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> If there's anything out of stock, then yes. You'll be in a queue while that item is being made/assambled.


The same thing happened to me over the course of a week and a half time period. I eventually cancelled the direct order from EKWB and bought it from PPCs, who eventually started stocking it.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> I received two Coolstream PE radiators, a 240 and a 360 for my build. The 360 was just as I expected, but the 240 has black G1/4 extenders instead of silver ones that I was expecting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's up with that?


They have black ones?! I only see nickel ones in the shop.


----------



## CasP3r

That's why I was surprised when I got the rad with black ones. All of the photos that I've seen on various sites have had the silver ones on them.


----------



## Pheozero

I actually just checked my rads and it's the same with me. My 360 has black extenders and my 240 has silver.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> *kcuestag*
> When i order all was in stock, and even now its in stock


Send a ticket and ask them. I ordered twice from them, and it was pretty fast both times.


----------



## GringoKillah1

*kcuestag*
Already do it. Yes, i 4 time ordered from them with help of friend and wait not more than 1,5 day.
Now i ordered by my self.... Bad luck?


----------



## Kimir

fyi, when you want to mention someone, use the @ or simply quote the message you are referring to @GringoKillah1.


----------



## dredeziel1

I always thought about watercooling my PC but never had the nerve to make the jump..But now that i did...I have the sickness for it..and everyting about it...This"Watercooling" hobby can get expensive so i have decided to donate a EK-PE 120 Rad that im not gonna use..Thought about keeping it but i know that im not..I will either go up to a 360 to add to my 240(s) or keep what i have and grow with that..so...here is a pic...Im gonna pick the person who sounds the most in need of one...I will pick and PM the person at the end of 4:00pm tomorrow who sounds like he needs it the most. After 4pm its over. This is not a gimmick. I dont have the rep to sell and giving to someone who can use it i know will come back to me in someway..Just doing my part..Not putting this in the freebie section because im in the EK Club and thats where i wanted to put it.. keep in mind you wont get any screws with it because im using all of them at the moment...free means free...I can ship from my job for free so dont worry about that...Please do the same for someone else..I know this cost but sometimes giving can be more rewarding than trying to sell..Well thats what my mom says anyway {lol}..Sooooo...Hit me up folks...


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> I always thought about watercooling my PC but never had the nerve to make the jump..But now that i did...I have the sickness for it..and everyting about it...This"Watercooling" hobby can get expensive so i have decided to donate a EK-PE 120 Rad that im not gonna use..Thought about keeping it but i know that im not..I will either go up to a 360 to add to my 240(s) or keep what i have and grow with that..so...here is a pic...Im gonna pick the person who sounds the most in need of one...I will pick and PM the person at the end of 4:00pm tomorrow who sounds like he needs it the most. After 4pm its over. This is not a gimmick. I dont have the rep to sell and giving to someone who can use it i know will come back to me in someway..Just doing my part..Not putting this in the freebie section because im in the EK Club and thats where i wanted to put it.. keep in mind you wont get any screws with it because im using all of them at the moment...free means free...I can ship from my job for free so dont worry about that...Please do the same for someone else..I know this cost but sometimes giving can be more rewarding than trying to sell..Well thats what my mom says anyway {lol}..Sooooo...Hit me up folks...


Cool Beans! I am going to have to pass it over for someone with a greater need though.


----------



## VSG

Same. But if you find no one else, this would be great for my second rig.


----------



## dredeziel1

4pm tomorrow...I dont care who gets it...Im just doing my part...laters all...


----------



## Destrto

@dredeziel1 I'd be more than happy to add that to my new Work In Progress 750D build. I can't honestly say that I NEED it, but it would definitely look great with the EK CPU and GPU block that will be added to it.


----------



## derickwm

I need it 

@GringoKillah1 what products did you order?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> I received two Coolstream PE radiators, a 240 and a 360 for my build. The 360 was just as I expected, but the 240 has black G1/4 extenders instead of silver ones that I was expecting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's up with that?
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/TRwKKc6


How weird ! ... It looks as if the black extensions are wider that the silver? Has the Aluminium shroud been modified to let them fit?


----------



## CasP3r

The external diameter of the black extenders seems to be a little bit wider than that of the silver ones indeed. To me it looks like the silver ones just come through the hole on the shroud whereas the black ones, or at least the visible parts of them, are resting on the shroud. So with the silver ones you can see the holes in the shroud but with the black ones the holes are covered by the extenders, I would guess that may be why they are wider now. From that perspective it seems like an improvement in design, I just think that the silver extenders make the whole radiator look a lot classier than those black ones.


----------



## Jakusonfire

If the black ones are resting on the shroud I would be double checking that the oring fitting is being compressed properly.


----------



## CasP3r

Aah no, there's no problems with that, they both feel completely solid. That was a little bad choice of words on my part. I just meant that with the silver ones you can see the holes on the shroud but with the black ones you can't because a part of the extender is on top of the shroud covering the hole.

Here you can see the hole on the shroud:



http://imgur.com/MHtdwIq


But here you can't because the extender is covering it:



http://imgur.com/C99ef2Z


----------



## GringoKillah1

del


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I _need _it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @GringoKillah1
> what products did you order?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> Aah no, there's no problems with that, they both feel completely solid. That was a little bad choice of words on my part. I just meant that with the silver ones you can see the holes on the shroud but with the black ones you can't because a part of the extender is on top of the shroud covering the hole.
> 
> Here you can see the hole on the shroud:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/MHtdwIq
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But here you can't because the extender is covering it:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/C99ef2Z


Ah cool, thanks for the better angle. The black fittings look better but its a shame that the silver fittings now look to be smaller than the holes for them and the gap shows.


----------



## CasP3r

I personally like the look of the silver extenders more, but true, the gap there isn't exactly the prettiest thing I've ever seen. In my opinion it would have been the best to stay with the silver extenders but to make it cover the hole like the black one does.


----------



## ARacoma9999

Could anyone tell me the exact purpose of this? The only reason I ask is cause I have a 2.2 DCP pump/res combo and I wanna separate them. Would this make it so I can make an outlet port coming from the top of my tube res?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16623/ex-res-384/EK_Mulit-Option_Res_X2_Insert_2.html?tl=g57c585s1884


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> Could anyone tell me the exact purpose of this? The only reason I ask is cause I have a 2.2 DCP pump/res combo and I wanna separate them. Would this make it so I can make an outlet port coming from the top of my tube res?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16623/ex-res-384/EK_Mulit-Option_Res_X2_Insert_2.html?tl=g57c585s1884


No, that's for the X2 reservoir, to fit a tube inside it.

See middle picture in step 1 http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109840047.pdf


----------



## ARacoma9999

Okay, thank you. I actually did some research and saw that the X3 tops can fit on the X2.2 tube reses hahaha


----------



## gdubc

Lot of exciting goodies on the way from EK. I am interested in the clean csq "elite" pump on the way. Looks to be decked out. And how about that monoblock love?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Lot of exciting goodies on the way from EK. I am interested in the clean csq "elite" pump on the way. Looks to be decked out. *And how about that monoblock love?*


Yeah, I haven't seen a lot of monoblock love around here for a product that seems to be selling out all the time. I'm probably the only one that flaunts it around these forums more than anyone







... Maybe two or three other people besides me have shown theirs, but that's it.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2553.jpg.html


----------



## gdubc

I jumped the gun and got the two piece set at release for the b.e., but seeing the plans for the oc force makes devils canyon all that more tempting for me. My pc/watercooling habit is really getting out of hand, I gotta get a grip...


----------



## Furious Pcs

@dredeziel1 Honestly i would love to have this for my build i want to start a water cooling build but i don't have allot of money. My old laptop crashed awhile ago and right now i'm stuck using my moms old computer with windows xp on it. I really want to have my build done before college and so far with savings i got a case lol yes just a case but hey its case labs s3 dream't of it for a while and i finally own it. here's my build log link http://www.overclock.net/t/1497336/build-log-project-white-hawk-caselabs-mercury-s3/0_100


----------



## fireedo

hi,

I want to go with EK WB for my VGA (r9 295x2) and this is will be my first time with custom water cooling so is this correct setup ? :



I just want to make sure since I will import this things ( Slovenia to Indonesia...very far far and expensive Tax will be)

thx


----------



## ozzy1925

are they going to release a new water block for 290s?
http://www.ekwb.com/news/500/19/New-water-cooling-gear-in-the-works-July-2014/


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> are they going to release a new water block for 290s?
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/500/19/New-water-cooling-gear-in-the-works-July-2014/


Well, if its listed there, then yes. I see two 290's in that list.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Well, if its listed there, then yes. I see two 290's in that list.


as i understand only for sapphire 290 vaporx and Asus ROG Matrix R9 290X afaik which arent reference design


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> as i understand only for sapphire 290 vaporx and Asus ROG Matrix R9 290X afaik which arent reference design


Yeah, EK usually only does reference design waterblocks.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I jumped the gun and got the two piece set at release for the b.e., but seeing the plans for the oc force makes devils canyon all that more tempting for me. My pc/watercooling habit is really getting out of hand, I gotta get a grip...


Same here. I bought the two piece R4BE blocks once they came out, and even had my loop 100% done. Then I saw the monoblock and had to have it. It was also an excuse to incorporate RAM blocks this time around, so it was somewhat perfect timing - considering I was close to finishing my build anyway. But with all these knick knack updates I keep adding, I'll never finish at this rate.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Yeah, EK usually only does reference design waterblocks.


Not true,

Asus DC2 and MSI Lightning are usually covered....and recently we had blocks for EVGA Classified and Gigabyte WF3 to name a few.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Yeah, EK usually only does reference design waterblocks.


Last week,i ordered 3 waterblocks for my sapphire 290 trix cards from ek and asked them if are they going to release new design waterblocks for 290s and they told me No. After reading the news i understood as they are going to release new design waterblocks for all amd 290 cards but after checking the list i realized its only for asus matrix and saaphire vaporx(not reference design) .


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireedo*
> 
> hi,
> 
> I want to go with EK WB for my VGA (r9 295x2) and this is will be my first time with custom water cooling so is this correct setup ? :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just want to make sure since I will import this things ( Slovenia to Indonesia...very far far and expensive Tax will be)
> 
> thx


double check on http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/ that your graphics cards have the matching layout.

I would go for 16/10 tubing which would render the anti kink coils unneccessary. Add some angle fittings for better tubing routing.

Going cheap on the pump doesn't make a lot of sense to me in that setup. Especially since you go for asthetics (clear tubing, dyed water).
I'd go for a D5 with a bitspower or aqualis set. otherwise looks fine to me


----------



## 4zp1r1na

Hi everyone, does anyone know what size and lenght of screws do i need to buy for my EK 290x Backplate? it´s the reference one with a nickel plexy block, because i buy my backplate new from Hellfiretoyz but it doesnt come with the mounting screws, it does come with the thermal pads, but no the screws even if the box and manual says that they come with the backplate, at first i tough the screws that come with the waterblock will fit but they dont, and the ones with the waterblock dont match the backplate because they are a bit short.

or does some one know from where i can get the screws?

thanks!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4zp1r1na*
> 
> Hi everyone, does anyone know what size and lenght of screws do i need to buy for my EK 290x Backplate? it´s the reference one with a nickel plexy block, because i buy my backplate new from Hellfiretoyz but it doesnt come with the mounting screws, it does come with the thermal pads, but no the screws even if the box and manual says that they come with the backplate, at first i tough the screws that come with the waterblock will fit but they dont, and the ones with the waterblock dont match the backplate because they are a bit short.
> 
> or does some one know from where i can get the screws?
> 
> thanks!


Ok here's what you need to order...

4 X EK Replacement Screw - M3 x 8

1 X EK Replacement Screw - M3 x 10

1 X EK Replacement Screw - M3 x 4

1 X EK Replacement Nut - M3 Thread

6 X EK Replacement Washer - M3 x 0.5

FrozenCPU is the official place for EK replacement parts


----------



## 4zp1r1na

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Ok here's what you need to order...
> 
> 4 X EK Replacement Screw - M3 x 8
> 
> 1 X EK Replacement Screw - M3 x 10
> 
> 1 X EK Replacement Screw - M3 x 4
> 
> 1 X EK Replacement Nut - M3 Thread
> 
> 6 X EK Replacement Washer - M3 x 0.5
> 
> FrozenCPU is the official place for EK replacement parts


That M3 nut, and those washers i assume i can use the ones that comes with the waterblock?

screws are actually pretty cheap, sadly, since im not from the USA the shipping is killing me, almost 30 USD to México, ill try to search them in the same size and lenght here, maybe i can find them, if not i think ill wait until i order my RAM block next month to have them in the same shippent.
i dont know what happend to them, everything was buy new and the boxes come sealed, well that kind of things happens.

anyways, thank for the help.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

I was able to get some small screws from a local hardware store. If you look at the instructions it should say what size screws you need. Also email the place you bought it from because the mounting hardware should have came with it. You can also go to the ek website and email the support people.


----------



## bigc9164

-i5 4670k - 4.5ghz
-Gigabyte UD4H
-Asus gtx 760
-8gb Gskill Sniper 1866mhz
-CORSAIR RM850 GOLD - Bitfenix Alchemy Cable Extensions WHITE
-Samsung EVO 120 SSD BOOT DRIVE
-WD 2.5" 500gb HDD STORAGE DRIVE
-Kingston V300 SSD GAMING DRIVE

-Corsair 750 D
-Corsair SP120 Fans
-NZXT Sentury 3 Fan Controller
-NZXT LED 2m cable kit
-Bitfenix LED HUB (17LEDs Wired)

-XSPC D5 Variable speed
-EK D5 X Pump Top
-XSPC Raystorm CPU block
-Swiftech 240 Radiator
-EK RES X3 150ml
-XSPC compression fittings
-EK 45 rotary fittings
-Bitfenix Visual Flow Indicator
-Primochill ADVANCE LRT Clear 1/2 - 3/4
-MAYHEMS Pastel White UV

http://s703.photobucket.com/user/bigc9164/media/IMG_20140628_161224_zpsad1fa7a6.jpg.html
http://s703.photobucket.com/user/bigc9164/media/IMG_20140628_161209_zps8df70e1c.jpg.html
http://s703.photobucket.com/user/bigc9164/media/IMG_20140628_161154_zps3b9ec22c.jpg.html


----------



## seross69

Looks good


----------



## jasjeet

Is it safe to undervolt the EK-DCP 2.2 X-RES Pump?


----------



## derickwm

Sure


----------



## jasjeet

@derickwm Thanks. BTW I'm very satisfied by the EK L120 kit. Some things that could be improved, the mounting on the pump to fan bracket has holes drilled so the pump and res sit adjacent to the fan, would be nice if 2 sets of holes were drilled to have to pump res sit perpendicular to the fan.
Also screws for 38mm fan or just 2 sets of 25mm fan screws for the rad would be great.
Lastly please sleeve the pump cable =(


----------



## ozzy1925

@derickwm can you please confirm:The upcoming r 290 blocks are only for ASUS ROG Matrix R9 290X and Sapphire Radeon R9 290X Vapor-X?I asked ek but couldnt get a real answer


----------



## derickwm

Yes... What else would they be for?


----------



## Newtocooling

Does anyone knwo when the EK-Ascendacy fan controller will be available?


----------



## derickwm

Soon™


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes... What else would they be for?


ok, i think there was a misunderstanding because i asked ek today and they told me they are going to release only for asus:


----------



## gdubc

Back to the monoblocks, it would be sweet to see ek make a white acetal full board block for the asus sabranco. Get rid of that camo. I'd be first in line to buy. Hint, hint!


----------



## pathfindercod

Soon? I'd really love to know how soon.







i jut flushed my rads yesterday and starting the build soon. I'd love to build with the new ek controller


----------



## Pheozero

It was a Blizzard type of soon. Expect to see it Q2 2015









Since where are asking Derick when stuff if coming out:

When?


----------



## VSG

Yes, Derick, when?

Note that Soon™ is not a valid answer


----------



## Kimir

When it's ready™ any better?


----------



## DuraN1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> When it's ready™ any better?


Off topic, saw your build on some ASUS FB page the other day Kimir, did you tell them your GPU's are EVGA?


----------



## VSG

He has a RIVE, all's good.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> He has a RIVE, all's good.


Yeah, they probably shared it because of the RIVE, not the kingpin cards.








They linked my build log, so they know.

So far, Caselabs, EK and Asus NA posted it on FB, I'm honored of that all.








Hasn't been done by EVGA yet, sad since the KPE cards are the origin of that whole build.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> It was a Blizzard type of soon. Expect to see it Q2 2015
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since where are asking Derick when stuff if coming out:
> 
> When?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yes, Derick, when?
> 
> Note that Soon™ is not a valid answer


In the near™ future.


----------



## Nichismo

Sup guys, finished my build for the most part!

I had a hefty draft for a build log going, but I got lazy and diverted all my work to this rig. Last night, I had finished connecting the loop, but then disaster struck..... Both reservoirs werent screwed down tight enough!! can you believe I did that? coolant spilled everywhere, thankfully my power supply and everything else was mounted in the air, and nothing got wet. However, the lower pump and res is only mounted using adhesive mounting pads from swiftech. Thankfully, they feel just as strong as before, but im not quite sure how much coolant is still down there seeped into the cracks. Im gonna pour a little water down there to make sure its all clean and then take a vacuum to it. In the meantime, heres where im at!




man I just love the full cover 770/780ti/titan waterblocks setups. Especially the nickel ones with the backplates. Since its one universal backplate for all 3 of those GPUs, and considering how awesome they look, they sell like freakin' hotcakes! Constantly out of stock at PPCs and FrozenCPU.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> In the near™ future.


As he said before (in another thread), its anywhere between Valve Time and Apple Time


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> As he said before (in another thread), its anywhere between Valve Time and Apple Time


At least it's not Blizzard Time


----------



## iBored

Will there be any blocks for the Asus non-rog z97 boards?


----------



## Nichismo

doubt it, im not even sure what blocks exist now for non rog boards in general, regardless


----------



## DuraN1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yeah, they probably shared it because of the RIVE, not the kingpin cards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They linked my build log, so they know.
> 
> So far, Caselabs, EK and Asus NA posted it on FB, I'm honored of that all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hasn't been done by EVGA yet, sad since the KPE cards are the origin of that whole build.


I know about the RIVE. It's just my general impression that ASUS prefers builds with everything ASUS in them, but I managed to resist posting a comment about the GPU's









Build looks sweet though


----------



## Kimir

True that, they generally post things full of Asus, I won't complain really.
And thanks.









I wasn't following Asus NA and saw it because EK shared Asus post tho, could it be because Raja joined here not long ago?


----------



## TTheuns

I am still hoping for motherboard blocks for the MSI MPower board or Asrock Extreme9 board. My mind wouldn't be able to cope with having all EK blocks and then having to get a different brand for my motherboard...


----------



## Razarach

I have one question. I hope that this is right thread for that.

So, I have EKW DDC 3.2 PWM pump and cable is a bit short for me. With some fan extension cable i can't control pump over motherboard. With other cable i don't even getting rpm readings.
Do I need this "EK-Cable PWM Fan Extension" or something else?


----------



## ozzy1925

guys i need help








today i received my 3x r290blocks from ek and i realised 2 of 3 blocks have small crack on the plexi where the metalpart comes .i try to take picture without removing the metal and circle it but its hard to picture




.If i remove the metal part on the block to see the cracked will i void warranty?

both blocks have exactly the same crack on the same spot


----------



## derickwm

I see in the other thread that you've opened a ticket, they'll solve it for you. Apologies for the inconvenience.


----------



## ozzy1925

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I see in the other thread that you've opened a ticket, they'll solve it for you. Apologies for the inconvenience.


yea i did last night,thanks


----------



## Nichismo

Went to town taking pictures with my new phone, hope they turn out okay!


----------



## Luiyt

Filled the CPU loop of my build in progress yesterday, few pics..


----------



## Nichismo

Very nice!

and welcome to the forums.

What hardware you got there?


----------



## Luiyt

Thanks!

Hardware:
4930k
Asus RIVBE
290X CF
Dominator GT 4x4GB 1866 CL9
Caselabs ST10-X
Seasonic X1250

Still waiting for GPU blocks, will post some more pics once the whole system is running.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

I've got an EK Nickel Supremacy and an EK 290X Rev. 2 GPU block for my MSI Twin Frozr 290X coming up in an S3 w/pedestal build. Should be getting going on it next weekend if my case gets here by then.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luiyt*
> 
> Filled the CPU loop of my build in progress yesterday, few pics..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's really gorgeous







. Always loved pastel yellow


----------



## 4zp1r1na

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> I was able to get some small screws from a local hardware store. If you look at the instructions it should say what size screws you need. Also email the place you bought it from because the mounting hardware should have came with it. You can also go to the ek website and email the support people.


yeah, that´s what i actually end up doing, they are not the same screws, but they work, they did not have the same size that the screws i need, so i bought a longer ones and have to cut them off, but at the end they fit nice and looks good, and cheaper actually haha.


----------



## ozzy1925

@derickwm please check your message box


----------



## iBored

Something got delivered today


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Something got delivered today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So pretty. I just wish they didn't have the In / Out markings spoiling the perfect surface.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> So pretty. I just wish they didn't have the In / Out markings spoiling the perfect surface.


I think it would be even better without the EK logo. Not putting the EK logo down, but a perfectly clean block would be nice.


----------



## iBored

I don't mind the ek logo etched on the corner. That would look cleaner than that circle. Or is the circle part of their logo?

Btw, if you rotated the logo 90deg clockwise, the logo looks the Chinese character for "fire".


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> I don't mind the ek logo etched on the corner. That would look cleaner than that circle. Or is the circle part of their logo?
> 
> Btw, if you rotated the logo 90deg clockwise, the logo looks the Chinese character for "fire".


Kind of ironic.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I think it would be even better without the EK logo. Not putting the EK logo down, but a perfectly clean block would be nice.


In any case, they still want you to know its ek


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Hey guys.

I am right in the middle of installing a EK-FC R9-290X block and matching backplate, on my GPU and have run into a problem.
I just noticed that the backplate did not come with the thermal pads it should. The "A" (1.0 mm.) is there, but the "C" (1.5mm.) is missing. That is the one that is supposed to go behind the GPU

Is there anyway to fix this, or do I have to order one from EK and just wait however long it takes to get here?.

In case it makes any difference, I have plenty of the 1.0mm. thick pads. And I also have some Akasa Thermal tape left over from another build. Would those two combined be a functional solution? The Akasa tape is 0,3mm. thick, so maybe two layers of that facing the backplate and one layer of the EK 1.0mm. pad facing the GPU?

Any help and advise would be appreciated, as I would really like to get this thing done today. It is the last part of my new build after all.


----------



## Seanay00

Hey guys,
I just picked up 2 Ek waterblocks for gtx670 DCUII's and live the look of them. I've been reading that em has a reputation of their nickel block corroding? This true? Cause I was planning on getting an Ek supremacy CPU block also.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dire Squirrel*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> I am right in the middle of installing a EK-FC R9-290X block and matching backplate, on my GPU and have run into a problem.
> I just noticed that the backplate did not come with the thermal pads it should. The "A" (1.0 mm.) is there, but the "C" (1.5mm.) is missing. That is the one that is supposed to go behind the GPU
> 
> Is there anyway to fix this, or do I have to order one from EK and just wait however long it takes to get here?.
> 
> In case it makes any difference, I have plenty of the 1.0mm. thick pads. And I also have some Akasa Thermal tape left over from another build. Would those two combined be a functional solution? The Akasa tape is 0,3mm. thick, so maybe two layers of that facing the backplate and one layer of the EK 1.0mm. pad facing the GPU?
> 
> Any help and advise would be appreciated, as I would really like to get this thing done today. It is the last part of my new build after all.


You could put down a layer of 1.0MM and then a layer of 0.5MM? That would work.


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> You could put down a layer of 1.0MM and then a layer of 0.5MM? That would work.


I have no 0.5mm.. There was only just enough of it included with the block, to cover the ram. Of the EK thermal pads, I only have 1.0mm. left.
The closest I have to the 0.5mm. thermal pads, is the 0.3mm. Akasa thermal tape that I linked to.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dire Squirrel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> You could put down a layer of 1.0MM and then a layer of 0.5MM? That would work.
> 
> 
> 
> I have no 0.5mm.. There was only just enough of it included with the block, to cover the ram. Of the EK thermal pads, I only have 1.0mm. left.
> The closest I have to the 0.5mm. thermal pads, is the 0.3mm. Akasa thermal tape that I linked to.
Click to expand...

Derp, that's what I get for not reading very well lol. You'll be fine with 1.0MM EK + 2x 0.3MM Akasa.


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Derp, that's what I get for not reading very well lol. You'll be fine with 1.0MM EK + 2x 0.3MM Akasa.


I'll try that then. Thank you.

You can haz rep.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dire Squirrel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Derp, that's what I get for not reading very well lol. You'll be fine with 1.0MM EK + 2x 0.3MM Akasa.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try that then. Thank you.
> 
> You can haz rep.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Thanks man. Yah, that 0.1MM difference shouldn't cause any issues.


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Yah, that 0.1MM difference shouldn't cause any issues.


I hope not.

In any case, it is installed and the GPU is in the case. now I just need to get the last tubing done.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanay00*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I just picked up 2 Ek waterblocks for gtx670 DCUII's and live the look of them. I've been reading that em has a reputation of their nickel block corroding? This true? Cause I was planning on getting an Ek supremacy CPU block also.


You'll be fine. It's pretty much just the same trolls reiterating stuff they read once years ago. Your warranty covers it regardless.


----------



## Seanay00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You'll be fine. It's pretty much just the same trolls reiterating stuff they read once years ago. Your warranty covers it regardless.


Well that's good to hear. Ek blocks all round then


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> In any case, they still want you to know its ek


Brand recognition... Plus, a blank block leaves EK vulnerable to poorly made bootleg copycat.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Brand recognition... Plus, a blank block leaves EK vulnerable to poorly made bootleg copycat.


Anyone can get those EK stickers and put it onto a bootleg product if need be, but while the exterior looks can be replicated the performance won't be.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Anyone can get those EK stickers and put it onto a bootleg product if need be, but while the exterior looks can be replicated the performance won't be.


That's what I was eluding to.









I use to work in Licensing & Merchandising for the company that produced Power Rangers, and I'd review bootleg stuff all the time.


----------



## Destrto

So after nearly a month of waiting, the replacement spacers for my Thermosphere block arrived. I can finally finish my build.


----------



## orwasmadi

*Hello guys,

I am planning to get EK-D5 Dual TOP 2-LOOPS in a separated water loops, However, i cant understand what Reservoir is compatible with it, every where they say you have to use the First version of Radiators or use a top link adapter so i can mount the x2 multipotion Res, the thing is i am running on low space left so any extra 1 cm will cause hell lot of problems to me.

So please could you link me to that "V1 Reservoir" ? :S*


----------



## brandotip

2 questions. 1) when I purchase a 780 to acetal block for my gtx 780, will it come with plugs for the two ports that won't be used? Is there anything I need to purchase seperatley for the install? 2) will a 770 backplate fit the 780 block?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> 2 questions. 1) when I purchase a 780 to acetal block for my gtx 780, will it come with plugs for the two ports that won't be used? Is there anything I need to purchase seperatley for the install? 2) will a 770 backplate fit the 780 block?


1. The two plugs for ports not used will be included.

2. You'll need a 780 backplate. Use coolingconfigurator.com to search for your hardware and find which specific backplate you'll need for which block.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 1. The two plugs for ports not used will be included.
> 
> 2. You'll need a 780 backplate. Use coolingconfigurator.com to search for your hardware and find which specific backplate you'll need for which block.


Thanks D! I have a reference 780 acx so I would be going with the gtx 780 ti block with matching back plate... Reason I asked about 770 bp was because of 780 bp availability

Also, does the fc780ti-acetal have extra cooling capacity over the plexi version? On ppcs the plexi version doesn't look like it extend to the capacitors near the back of the PCB.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Thanks D! I have a reference 780 acx so I would be going with the gtx 780 ti block with matching back plate... Reason I asked about 770 bp was because of 780 bp availability
> 
> Also, does the fc780ti-acetal have extra cooling capacity over the plexi version? On ppcs the plexi version doesn't look like it extend to the capacitors near the back of the PCB.


The acetal just extends to the edge of the pcb but the metal plate does not. You get the same cooling capacity as the non acetal version.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> The acetal just extends to the edge of the pcb but the metal plate does not. You get the same cooling capacity as the non acetal version.


Thanks! And does the acetal and plexi both take the same backplate?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Thanks! And does the acetal and plexi both take the same backplate?


Yes.

Like Derick told you, the coolingconfigurator.com will indicate you this information


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orwasmadi*
> 
> *Hello guys,
> 
> I am planning to get EK-D5 Dual TOP 2-LOOPS in a separated water loops, However, i cant understand what Reservoir is compatible with it, every where they say you have to use the First version of Radiators or use a top link adapter so i can mount the x2 multipotion Res, the thing is i am running on low space left so any extra 1 cm will cause hell lot of problems to me.
> 
> So please could you link me to that "V1 Reservoir" ? :S*


That dual loop top is an older model. It uses the now discontinued 50mm Multioption reservoirs that came before the X2 and X3 series, and a special link.

You would need to find two res tubes and two links to screw into the two top ports, like this;


... or just use the top with seperated reservoirs and normal fittings. As B-Neg shows here;


Finding two reservoirs that will fit might be difficult unless there are second hand ones available near you.

Edit: Derp; scratch that. Seems I'm just telling you what you already know. If you can find two of these
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/EK-Water-Blocks-EK-Multioption-RES-X2-LINK5060-Black-Acetal_38303.html
It seems you can use the X2 60mm res tubes that should be available.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15566/ex-res-349/EK-Multioption_RES_X2_-_Tube_60100mm.html?tl=c585s1884b133

All things considered it may be wiser to just use two independent single tops or pump/res combos. Then you won't be stuck with old parts incompatible with current parts.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Thanks! And does the acetal and plexi both take the same backplate?


Yup the backplate is the same regardless of the block version as long as it's the one for your card.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes.
> 
> Like Derick told you, the coolingconfigurator.com will indicate you this information


Thank you! The cooling Configurator lists the available options per sku, but it does not give any information about inter compatibility between skus. For instance most 780 ref blocks list 770 compatibility in specs listing, but not vice versa. This is why I am crowd sourcing my answers







also since this is my first build I'm not sure if some backplates are specific to certain blocks or if they all just fasten directly to the pcb. If I can't get an ek backplate to match my block I may need to order an evga backplate, and I would need to know if that is possible to use with a given block/pcb combo.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Yup the backplate is the same regardless of the block version as long as it's the one for your card.


Thank you! I guess that means the backplates are not reliant on a specific block


----------



## derickwm

For the reference PCB blocks, yes. But be careful as non reference blocks have specific backplates made for them.

For example the 780 Ti Matrix backplate is for the 780 Ti Matrix block.


----------



## orwasmadi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That dual loop top is an older model. It uses the now discontinued 50mm Multioption reservoirs that came before the X2 and X3 series, and a special link.
> 
> You would need to find two res tubes and two links to screw into the two top ports, like this;
> 
> 
> ... or just use the top with seperated reservoirs and normal fittings. As B-Neg shows here;
> 
> 
> Finding two reservoirs that will fit might be difficult unless there are second hand ones available near you.
> 
> Edit: Derp; scratch that. Seems I'm just telling you what you already know. If you can find two of these
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/EK-Water-Blocks-EK-Multioption-RES-X2-LINK5060-Black-Acetal_38303.html
> It seems you can use the X2 60mm res tubes that should be available.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15566/ex-res-349/EK-Multioption_RES_X2_-_Tube_60100mm.html?tl=c585s1884b133
> 
> All things considered it may be wiser to just use two independent single tops or pump/res combos. Then you won't be stuck with old parts incompatible with current parts.


Thanks Dear for the Reply,

you did me a great favor indeed, so to sum it up, i can use this reservoir bottom to connect the X2/X3 reservoir to my D5-Dual loop top?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=37475&zenid=3b133146cd93f9b6b63cbc391b33be84


----------



## Jakusonfire

Only the X2 series, not the X3.
X2 tubes are threaded on the inside while x3 are threaded on the outside.

It is easier than I thought, it gets confusing with the multiple generations of EK products. Still though, even the X2 series are probably limited in availability compared to current parts.


----------



## DigitalMonkey

error


----------



## pathfindercod

Anyone know what height extension would be needed for the RIVBE monoblock and Monarch ram blocks mounted on dominator gt modules to make 90 fittings level to each other?


----------



## jasjeet

Guys im getting some sort of vibration almost grinding/crackling type noise from my EK DCP pump, im not sure if its normal, i dont remember it sounding like this, im sure it was pretty quiet after the system was bleeded. Now it sounds like something is trapped in the pump. What do you guys think? System is only a week old, ive tried tipping the case hoping its just a bit more air, but no luck yet.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> Guys im getting some sort of vibration almost grinding/crackling type noise from my EK DCP pump, im not sure if its normal, i dont remember it sounding like this, im sure it was pretty quiet after the system was bleeded. Now it sounds like something is trapped in the pump. What do you guys think? System is only a week old, ive tried tipping the case hoping its just a bit more air, but no luck yet.


That does not sound good. pull it out and run a short loop with just the res. At least then you will know if it is isolated to the pump, or if it is something else rattling as a result of pump vibrations.


----------



## jasjeet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> That does not sound good. pull it out and run a short loop with just the res. At least then you will know if it is isolated to the pump, or if it is something else rattling as a result of pump vibrations.


In that video the HDDs have fallen asleep, so its just the fans, which are all at around 6-700rpm. Its definatly the pump, i put my ear right against it and can hear it crackling/buzzing inside. I remember a hum noise soon after it was bled, but not a noise like this.

Im just uploading another video to show the difference between the pump running or the pump off.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> In that video the HDDs have fallen asleep, so its just the fans, which are all at around 6-700rpm. Its definatly the pump, i put my ear right against it and can hear it crackling/buzzing inside. I remember a hum noise soon after it was bled, but not a noise like this.
> 
> Im just uploading another video to show the difference between the pump running or the pump off.


Is it still under warranty of any kind? That sounds like the pump going bad. The longer you run it, the worse it'll get.


----------



## jasjeet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Is it still under warranty of any kind? That sounds like the pump going bad. The longer you run it, the worse it'll get.


It's only a week or so old. I'll send the videos to EK via a ticket and see what they think.


----------



## vaporizer

posted in the W/C thread too. all EK blocks. EK CSQ res in the drive bay feeding dual D5's in the bottom section of my HAF XB


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> posted in the W/C thread too. all EK blocks. EK CSQ res in the drive bay feeding dual D5's in the bottom section of my HAF XB


Looks pretty sweet!


----------



## repo_man

Just saw this and figure I'll post my stuff too.







Lapped/polished EK Supremacy gpu/cpu blocks on my dual 480 rad build:


----------



## BabylonDown

Does anyone know if the EK DDC Heatsink Housing is compatible with the Uni DDC V2 Holder?

Can I mount the heatsink housing to the holder?


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Looks pretty sweet!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> posted in the W/C thread too. all EK blocks. EK CSQ res in the drive bay feeding dual D5's in the bottom section of my HAF XB


Nice looking system man. I like the color combination. I like the routing job..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> posted in the W/C thread too. all EK blocks. EK CSQ res in the drive bay feeding dual D5's in the bottom section of my HAF XB


Can only notice 6 of your fans are configured as intake and only one as exhaust. Might get better case ambient if you turn 2 of your rad fans to exhaust for 4 intakes and 3 exhaust.

Other than that, looks great!!


----------



## Pheozero

Quick question, do the ports line up for the R9 290X block and the R9 295X2 block? I'm starting to have dangerous thoughts (as far as my savings are concerned.)


----------



## ProfeZZor X

@derickwm, is there a reason why EK didn't drill LED holes for their monoblock. Granted, there aren't a lot of places on the block where it could be drilled, but there are some places on the block itself..


----------



## derickwm

Extra cost for an already expensive block, not many users use them on the blocks we do drill them on.


----------



## Pheozero

Soooo, yes/no on the blocks lining up?


----------



## derickwm

I have no idea, I don't have the blocks in front of me. I sent an email to the engineers, awaiting their response.


----------



## wermad

Do any of the clean models have led holes????


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I have no idea, I don't have the blocks in front of me. I sent an email to the engineers, awaiting their response.


Ah, my bad. I'll check back later. Thanks.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Do any of the clean models have led holes????


I just picked up a pair of cleans for gtx 770s with led holes. Unsure about other models thought.


----------



## derickwm

I believe EK-FC Titan SE had them as well, as does the EK-FC780 GTX Ti.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

The 780 classy block doesn't have them sadly ...

Also, Derick, when is the darn clear plexi terminal going to come out







?


----------



## Pheozero

In the distant but near future™.


----------



## King4x4

Second that 295x2 with 290x blocks line up...









Pending sale on three of my 290xs and MIGHT switch to a 295x2 with a single 290x.


----------



## derickwm

Pfft switch to 2× 295X2s!


----------



## King4x4

Nein!

Too costly and less effective and my quad 290x are good to go.

Need them DP ports on the 295x2.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BabylonDown*
> 
> Does anyone know if the EK DDC Heatsink Housing is compatible with the Uni DDC V2 Holder?
> 
> Can I mount the heatsink housing to the holder?


yes it work

I have it in my current build


----------



## defiler2k

@derickwm I was going through to install my new PE480 and I noticed a bunch of bent fins on the bottom? What is the tolerance for that or should I RMA?


----------



## VSG

Fins are so easy to bend that it's nearly impossible to saw how and where that happened. They are just as easy to bend back too.


----------



## derickwm

That's not really a bunch. I do apologize for them but your best bet is to bend them back yourself. Hardly worth the time/cost to mail it back and get a new one.


----------



## jasjeet

I sent EK my videos of the pump and they gladly are arranging the RMA. Thanks for the cooperation.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That's not really a bunch. I do apologize for them but your best bet is to bend them back yourself. Hardly worth the time/cost to mail it back and get a new one.


Thanks for the quick response, I actually decided it was not bad at all and was able to straighten them with a pin extractor and mounted it shortly after I made the post. My bad









Looking forward to having my loop back up and to test how these handle the heat from my 780ti's


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Does anyone know if the EK 290X backplate works with all the 290X rev. 2 waterblock? I have the MSI 290X Gaming Edition and I had to get the revision 2 block for it. However I only see one backplate so I'm wondering if it works with both revisions.

Seems like this is my only options since the Aquacomputer backplate is unobtainable for another 1-2 months.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuffinMyLye*
> 
> Does anyone know if the EK 290X backplate works with all the 290X rev. 2 waterblock? I have the MSI 290X Gaming Edition and I had to get the revision 2 block for it. However I only see one backplate so I'm wondering if it works with both revisions.
> 
> Seems like this is my only options since the Aquacomputer backplate is unobtainable for another 1-2 months.


EK links to the same backplate in their product page for both versions so yeah it should be compatible.

V2
V1


----------



## derickwm

Yes.

V1 and V2 are nearly identical besides a small modification to allow compatibility with a few more GPUs.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> EK links to the same backplate in their product page for both versions so yeah it should be compatible.
> 
> V2
> V1


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes.
> 
> V1 and V2 are nearly identical besides a small modification to allow compatibility with a few more GPUs.


Thank you.


----------



## ref

Hey all,

just starting the planning for my next water cooling build, going to be going with EK parts.

Got a question though, what do you think would be better in terms of radiators? (x2 480mm)

1. Thicker XTX radiator in push config (3 fans) with ~1700RPM fans.
2. Thinner radiator in push/pull (6 fans) with ~1250RPM fans.

If the performance is similar, I'm going to go for the quieter solution obviously.


----------



## derickwm

Personally, I would go with option 2, using our new PE radiators.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Personally, I would go with option 2, using our new PE radiators.


How does it compare to the XTXs or XTs?

I've seen a good deal on an almost new PE 480. Really curious.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Personally, I would go with option 2, using our new PE radiators.
> 
> 
> 
> How does it compare to the XTXs or XTs?
> 
> I've seen a good deal on an almost new PE 480. Really curious.
Click to expand...

The PEs are pretty slick radiators. The only downside I have seen with mine is that the tight weaving requires more frequent cleaning, but the performance is awesome.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Personally, I would go with option 2, using our new PE radiators.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> How does it compare to the XTXs or XTs?
> 
> I've seen a good deal on an almost new PE 480. Really curious.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> The PEs are pretty slick radiators. The only downside I have seen with mine is that the tight weaving requires more frequent cleaning, but the performance is awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I hear you on the high FPI dual stack fin array.

Got 2 360s from 2 different makes. And yes, they do need more than frequent cleaning from particle build up.

Performance are really close to thicker rads 'cept for flow.


----------



## Jakusonfire

The PE rads are really not all that dense. I have had others more air flow restrictive. Just from personal observation in my build I swapped from low FPI alphacool rads in push to PE's in push pull and I am seeing better water temps at the 700 - 1300rpm range I use with Corsair SP 120 and NB eLoops.

To be more accurate, from an XT45 360 in push and XT45 240 in push pull ... to PE 360 & 240 both push pull.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> How does it compare to the XTXs or XTs?
> 
> I've seen a good deal on an almost new PE 480. Really curious.


PE's 480's are awesome. Ive tried the AX480's from XSPC and the EX XTX's and I decided to stick with the PE's as they are my favorites and the performance is great in push pull. I couldnt get full push pull on my XTX due to the size and thats why I moved back to the PE's because my GPU's were getting better temps with the PE's in push pull.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Hey Guys and Gals. I am fairly new to the site and cooling in general. I have an H100i at the moment. This is the question. Could I get just an Ek Nickle cpu block, a pump, No Reservior, and like a 240mm Rad? Loop um with easy tubing, (barbs and fittings of course) and get substancial cooling because of the amount of liquid and space in the 240mm rad? Let me know please. I don't think I want to dive in balls first with a 500$ loop off of the bat. I would like to start small.

Colin


----------



## bigc9164

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Hey Guys and Gals. I am fairly new to the site and cooling in general. I have an H100i at the moment. This is the question. Could I get just an Ek Nickle cpu block, a pump, No Reservior, and like a 240mm Rad? Loop um with easy tubing, (barbs and fittings of course) and get substancial cooling because of the amount of liquid and space in the 240mm rad? Let me know please. I don't think I want to dive in balls first with a 500$ loop off of the bat. I would like to start small.
> 
> Colin


you "could" do that. but you really want a reservoir just north of your pump so that the pump never runs dry. All pumps use the actual liquid to lubricate the pump motor. So without a reserboir above the pump there is a chance that lots of air will be cycling through the system. There are some pretty cheap good reservours out there. swiftech makes a very small one for about $20. You need a PUMP/RES/RAD/WATERBLOCK for a complete water loop.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigc9164*
> 
> you "could" do that. but you really want a reservoir just north of your pump so that the pump never runs dry. All pumps use the actual liquid to lubricate the pump motor. So without a reserboir above the pump there is a chance that lots of air will be cycling through the system. There are some pretty cheap good reservours out there. swiftech makes a very small one for about $20. You need a PUMP/RES/RAD/WATERBLOCK for a complete water loop.


Agreed, you do not want your pump to run dry and bleeding/priming with that setup can be a real challenge. A small reservoir is very inexpensive and it gives you more peace of mind from a pump endurance perspective.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigc9164*
> 
> you "could" do that. but you really want a reservoir just north of your pump so that the pump never runs dry. All pumps use the actual liquid to lubricate the pump motor. So without a reserboir above the pump there is a chance that lots of air will be cycling through the system. There are some pretty cheap good reservours out there. swiftech makes a very small one for about $20. You need a PUMP/RES/RAD/WATERBLOCK for a complete water loop.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Agreed, you do not want your pump to run dry and bleeding/priming with that setup can be a real challenge. A small reservoir is very inexpensive and it gives you more peace of mind from a pump endurance perspective.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Agreed, you do not want your pump to run dry and bleeding/priming with that setup can be a real challenge. A small reservoir is very inexpensive and it gives you more peace of mind from a pump endurance perspective.


I understand. Do I have a good idea though? How do I drain and refill the system? That is the main question.. Maintenance cycle, I will look into the prices. Are barbs usually a certain diameter? What would y'all recomend?

Colin


----------



## derickwm

No, that's not a good idea. I've run a system with just a T-Line instead of a res and it's way more of a pain than it was worth. Invest in a small pump/res combo and you will save yourself hours of headache. Most pump/res combos have a third G1/4 port for easy draining as well. Save yourself the time and frustration.

Barbs are usually 3/8" or 1/2". Everyone likes their own things, I prefer 3/8" myself.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I understand. Do I have a good idea though? How do I drain and refill the system? That is the main question.. Maintenance cycle, I will look into the prices. Are barbs usually a certain diameter? What would y'all recomend?
> 
> Colin


If you go with a good coolant you dont have to worry about the draining and refilling of the loop maybe once a year or so if you setup correctly.

As far as a drain system a T fitting like this with a stop plug or a valve would be your best friend at the lowest point of your loop.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Hey Guys and Gals. I am fairly new to the site and cooling in general. I have an H100i at the moment. This is the question. Could I get just an Ek Nickle cpu block, a pump, No Reservior, and like a 240mm Rad? Loop um with easy tubing, (barbs and fittings of course) and get substancial cooling because of the amount of liquid and space in the 240mm rad? Let me know please. I don't think I want to dive in balls first with a 500$ loop off of the bat. I would like to start small.
> 
> Colin


I did this once and ended up spending almost as much on the T-fitting, fill port and two extra compression fittings as I would have on a Swiftech MCRES. Also, as Bigc and Defiler say - it's a challenge to fill and bleed and easy to damage your pump if it runs dry at any moment.


----------



## cephelix

Hey guys,

Really digginng EK stuff here and looking to get more but I have a few questions first before pulling the trigger. Currently running a MSI R9 290 Gaming. Checked the PCB layout on cooling configurator and it doesn't match for the full block rev 2.0, mine being PCB revision 2.2(Gold chokes, no amd silk screen print near pcb, capacitor near 8-pin is not right next to connector).

So now my only option if i want to include my card into my loop would be to use a universal block. So i guess my question would be;

Is it possible to use the EK Thermosphere together with the stock cooling plate and backplate?


----------



## wermad

Which model do you have?

Reference 290/290X have the amd logo and typically run the "turbine coolerr"

EK V2 blocks fit revised GB and MSI "gaming" cards. For the msi, according to the coolingconfigurator, its for mo: V308-002R (R290 Gaming TwinFrozr).

Msi only shows the two in coolingconfigurator.com and the msi product site shows only these two as well. Check your card again for the model (stickerr on back or check the retail box) or contact msi support. Some of the chokes and modules maybe changed for better ones but generally the design is the same.

If you do have a new revised (would be v3 then







) model, please let Derick know so EK can update the coolingconfigurator.com adding this model and whether or not it does fit any of the blocks available.

Wondering if they Lightning 290X would fit







? Compare it to your card's layout


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Which model do you have?
> 
> Reference 290/290X have the amd logo and typically run the "turbine coolerr"
> 
> EK V2 blocks fit revised GB and MSI "gaming" cards. For the msi, according to the coolingconfigurator, its for mo: V308-002R (R290 Gaming TwinFrozr).
> 
> Msi only shows the two in coolingconfigurator.com and the msi product site shows only these two as well. Check your card again for the model (stickerr on back or check the retail box) or contact msi support. Some of the chokes and modules maybe changed for better ones but generally the design is the same.
> 
> If you do have a new revised (would be v3 then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) model, please let Derick know so EK can update the coolingconfigurator.com adding this model and whether or not it does fit any of the blocks available.
> 
> Wondering if they Lightning 290X would fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? Compare it to your card's layout


Mine is VV308-022R. I think on coolingconfigurator, it's shown as V308-014R. There's a pic of it on there but is listed with no compatible full cover blocks. Either ways, mine is not a reference blower but the twin frozr edition.


----------



## wermad

Sounds like a new revision. Just for the heck of it, compare your pcb to the Lightning one. Maybe it will match







, ?


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sounds like a new revision. Just for the heck of it, compare your pcb to the Lightning one. Maybe it will match
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , ?


Will take a look when i get back...off to work now...have a great day fellas!


----------



## Pheozero

@derickwm Anything back from the lab about the 295X2 block and the 290X ports lining up?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> @derickwm Anything back from the lab about the 295X2 block and the 290X ports lining up?


Idea:


Spoiler: Idea!





Hit up the 295x2 and 290/290X clubs. Ask if anyone is running ek blocks and would be kind enough to measure from the end of the pcb to the first port. I'm also interested but I really want quad 295x2 (







).

Thought i saw someone said yes but I can't confirm this. Let us know what you find


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> No, that's not a good idea. I've run a system with just a T-Line instead of a res and it's way more of a pain than it was worth. Invest in a small pump/res combo and you will save yourself hours of headache. Most pump/res combos have a third G1/4 port for easy draining as well. Save yourself the time and frustration.
> 
> Barbs are usually 3/8" or 1/2". Everyone likes their own things, I prefer 3/8" myself.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I did this once and ended up spending almost as much on the T-fitting, fill port and two extra compression fittings as I would have on a Swiftech MCRES. Also, as Bigc and Defiler say - it's a challenge to fill and bleed and easy to damage your pump if it runs dry at any moment.


WOW! What a day, I can barely type, I did tons of research, I appreciate all the feedback. I am really thinking of taking the dive. I love the idea about the valve!! That takes a ton of stress off of my chest.. I was like how the **** do people drain that thing!!!







I am really trippin about the H100i.. I can't seem to find out what size the rad is... I mean is the rad a 120mm??? I was really thinking of going with a 240mm but everywhere I look It wont tell me if it is a 120 vs 240mm. I WANT to say that It is a 120mm because it is so thin compared to what I have noticed the 240mm's thickness. The H100i can't be a 240mm Rad. In any case If I get a 240mm (hoping the h100i isn't that big) will it fit in a push pull above the FORMULA VI Asus ATX board in a 750d top rack? I am looking around for a pump and maybe a 5.25" reservior. I am pretty sure I would run distilled water at first because of the cost efficency of it and I think the flow would be best to dissipate heat actually. The cpu block I would be from EK (Nickle) for the 1150 socket.

Colin.


----------



## mus1mus

Are you thinking about using the H100i as a Radiator?

H100i has a 2 X 120mm radiator by the way. Which is also called a 240mm rad,


----------



## wermad

^^^Qft









Btw, most closed loop systems contain aluminum, especially the rads. I would double check the materials for that rad. Don't want a nasty reaction occurring by mixing metals.


----------



## MeanBruce

That first frontal edge, beginning first time water cooling tomorrow.

Dear God, bless my build.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8555_zps7e25b63d.jpg.html


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> I received two Coolstream PE radiators, a 240 and a 360 for my build. The 360 was just as I expected, but the 240 has black G1/4 extenders instead of silver ones that I was expecting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's up with that?
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/TRwKKc6


So it looks like EK have have given us the black extensions but the design has changed

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings/extenders-and-spacers/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-nickel.html

They seem now to be more like the type on XSPC AX rads.

So now I wonder ... will these new ones work with my first generation PE rads, my D5 X-RES and other parts like terminal bridges on the recessed ports?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I am really trippin about the H100i.
> 
> I am looking around for a pump and maybe a 5.25" reservior.


The H100i is an "all-in-one" closed loop. It contains pump, rad, fans, tubes and fluid as a factory-sealed system. You do not want to use that for any custom solution because: 1) it's made from aluminium which will corrode with your copper or nickel CPU block and brass fittings, 2) the ports are not standard G1/4" sized, 3) you can get a better copper/brass 240mm radiator for less than the $99 the H100i costs.

And don't get a bay-res they are a hassle. Tube reservoir ftw


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Are you thinking about using the H100i as a Radiator?
> 
> H100i has a 2 X 120mm radiator by the way. Which is also called a 240mm rad,


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^Qft
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, most closed loop systems contain aluminum, especially the rads. I would double check the materials for that rad. Don't want a nasty reaction occurring by mixing metals.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The H100i is an "all-in-one" closed loop. It contains pump, rad, fans, tubes and fluid as a factory-sealed system. You do not want to use that for any custom solution because: 1) it's made from aluminium which will corrode with your copper or nickel CPU block and brass fittings, 2) the ports are not standard G1/4" sized, 3) you can get a better copper/brass 240mm radiator for less than the $99 the H100i costs.
> 
> And don't get a bay-res they are a hassle. Tube reservoir ftw


I am not going to use the H1ooi, I would be replacing the H100i with another radiator and custom loop. I am trying to figure out if gettting a 240mm rad would be bigger than the h1ooi's radiator.

I like the idea about the Tube reservior, elaborate on that subject, I do like the idea of a 5.25" bay one also.

Colin


----------



## vinton13

Would like to join.

EK Supremacy Acetal+Nickel (arrives on Thursday)
2x EK 780ti Acetal+Nickel
Serial bridge
2x 780ti backplates

http://www.overclock.net/t/1498870/build-log-project-grayscale-wc-2x-780ti-4790k-air-540-evga-classified-z97/


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> So it looks like EK have have given us the black extensions but the design has changed
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings/extenders-and-spacers/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-nickel.html
> 
> They seem now to be more like the type on XSPC AX rads.
> 
> So now I wonder ... will these new ones work with my first generation PE rads, my D5 X-RES and other parts like terminal bridges on the recessed ports?


Comparing the new spacer and the old ones the new one is slighly larger 16.75mm vs 19.9mm which tells me that these wouldn't fit in the recessed ports like the ones on the EK D5 Pump combo as those are extremely tight already with the 16.75mm version of the extender. Its a shame because I would love to use the black nickel in my setup as it would closer match what I have in my rig and I imagine a few people would love to use the black with the acetal pump reservoir combos.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Comparing the new spacer and the old ones the new one is slighly larger 16.75mm vs 19.9mm which tells me that these wouldn't fit in the recessed ports like the ones on the EK D5 Pump combo as those are extremely tight already with the 16.75mm version of the extender. Its a shame because I would love to use the black nickel in my setup as it would closer match what I have in my rig and I imagine a few people would love to use the black with the acetal pump reservoir combos.


Of course they fit in the recessed ports, that's exactly the purpose of the extenders









It's just that it now has a "flange" at the upper part that is a bit wider. But underneath it's still <17mm.

IMO the flange is a good thing because the small diameter of the original extenders did look a little odd when using non-EK fittings.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Of course they fit in the recessed ports, that's exactly the purpose of the extenders
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's just that it now has a "flange" at the upper part that is a bit wider. But underneath it's still <17mm.
> 
> IMO the flange is a good thing because the small diameter of the original extenders did look a little odd when using non-EK fittings.


I did see the lip at the bottom and I hope that is the case as I would love to use these with my setup and remove the old ones that really don't match my build. Im waiting for them to become available here in the US to test them out. It would be nice if EK would publish detailed diagrams on these like they do with some of the other fittings detailing the dimensions.

I like the fact that you can tighten them with hex key which was my main complain on the originals aside from the finish as they were extremely hard to tighten on recessed ports.

I was tempted to order a few directly from EK but 21 Euro for shipping is just too much for 2 of these.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Did anyone check the EK store this morning?

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-plexi.html

Jeffinslaw


----------



## VSG

Got the news earlier this morning from Stren. Definitely getting a few once they hit the US, and hoping for multi block terminals in clear also.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Comparing the new spacer and the old ones the new one is slighly larger 16.75mm vs 19.9mm which tells me that these wouldn't fit in the recessed ports like the ones on the EK D5 Pump combo as those are extremely tight already with the 16.75mm version of the extender. Its a shame because I would love to use the black nickel in my setup as it would closer match what I have in my rig and I imagine a few people would love to use the black with the acetal pump reservoir combos.


I'm gonna order a few to see how they go on the recessed ports of my res, along with some of these
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hdc-fitting-12mm-g1-4-black.html

Not a fan of some of the colours but at least its something new. I can't keep up with all these new hardline fittings becoming available. I only just ordered some BP enhanced. I think I will still prefer the faithful C47 though, but the more options the better.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Got the news earlier this morning from Stren. Definitely getting a few once they hit the US, and hoping for multi block terminals in clear also.


They confirmed that the multi-block terminals in plexi "are in the works".


----------



## VSG

Ya, I remember. These look polished already from the pictures too.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Did anyone check the EK store this morning?
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-plexi.html
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Well looks like I will make an order with EK afterall, thanks for sharing!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I'm gonna order a few to see how they go on the recessed ports of my res, along with some of these
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hdc-fitting-12mm-g1-4-black.html
> 
> Not a fan of some of the colours but at least its something new. I can't keep up with all these new hardline fittings becoming available. I only just ordered some BP enhanced. I think I will still prefer the faithful C47 though, but the more options the better.


I have to admit the colors do look a little off, it might be the pictures but the black looks more like a navy blue. I do like the fact that they can be tightened with a 9mm allen, that is my only complain with the primochill's is that they can be hard to tighten without cutting up your fingers and the wrench included with the ten packs is next to worthless for tightening the barbs.


----------



## exyia

Can someone double check this before I order

I have a Koolance 452x2 with dual D5 PWM pumps that were pre-installed. I'm moving to a caselabs so I need to change out the pumps to an internal tube combo

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17756/ex-pmp-226/EK_D5_Dual_CSQ_Pump_Top_-_Acetal_-_Black_Laing_D5_Swiftech_MCP650655655-PWM_EK-D5_Dual_TOP_G14_CSQ_-_Black_Acetal.html?tl=g57c595s1935

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17957/ex-pmp-227/EK_D5_Dual_X-Res_Link_Adapter_-_Acetal_-_Black_EK-D5_Dual_X-RES_Link_CSQ.html#blank

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17508/ex-res-431/EK-MultiOption_RES_X3_150_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_6_Total_Ports.html?tl=g57c615s1940

or maybe the 250, not sure on how big I want it (caselabs sma8)

And the specifications on frozencpu don't indicate, but all necessary O-rings are or are not included in each product? when I ordered my SLi bridge, I didn't get any O-rings so that set me back a few weeks (they also happened to be backordered on them at that time, lucky me)

anything else I'll need when transferring the pumps over to this?


----------



## Jakusonfire

If you want to make up an all in one unit you can just buy the parts separately
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17756/ex-pmp-226/EK_D5_Dual_CSQ_Pump_Top_-_Acetal_-_Black_Laing_D5_Swiftech_MCP650655655-PWM_EK-D5_Dual_TOP_G14_CSQ_-_Black_Acetal.html?tl=g57c595s1935
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17957/ex-pmp-227/EK_D5_Dual_X-Res_Link_Adapter_-_Acetal_-_Black_EK-D5_Dual_X-RES_Link_CSQ.html#blank
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17773/ex-res-463/EK_X3_Reservoir_Replacement_Tube_-_250_EK-RES_X3_-_TUBE_250_204mm.html?tl=g57c615s1884&id=dgSXyXWo&mv_pc=2455
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20940/ex-res-637/EK_X3_Reservoir_Replacement_Anticyclone_EK-RES_X3_-_Anticyclone_SHORT.html?tl=g57c615s1940&id=dgSXyXWo&mv_pc=2658
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18484/ex-res-480/EK_X3_Reservoir_Replacement_Top_-_Black_EK-RES_X3_-_TOP.html?tl=g57c615s1884&id=dgSXyXWo&mv_pc=2447

Or use the Multiport top
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17769/ex-res-460/EK_X3_Reservoir_Multiport_Replacement_Top_EK-RES_X3_-_Multiport_TOP.html?tl=g57c615s1884&id=dgSXyXWo&mv_pc=2801
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23944/ex-res-693/EK_X3_Resevoir_Internal_Tube_-_40mm_EK-RES_X3_-_Internal_Tube_1216_40mm.html?tl=g57c615s1884&id=dgSXyXWo&mv_pc=2821

The Parts come with all the Orings needed. The Single port top just needs a stop plug to be added for it. ( Unless you are gonna use an external fill port and tube of course)
The Multi port top comes with 3 stop plugs but has 5 ports so if you don't use any of them you need two extra


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, I remember. These look polished already from the pictures too.


They are.


----------



## derickwm

The new extenders are indeed for products like our X-Res and such. So users will now have the option to change colors to suit their build 

Our new HDC adapters launched this morning as well.

We have more stuff in the works that are coming soon as well... 

The FC-295X2 block does not line up with the FC-290X block, unfortunately.


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The FC-295X2 block does not line up with the FC-290X block, unfortunately.


This made me go sad monkey


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The FC-295X2 block does not line up with the FC-290X block, unfortunately.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> This made me go sad monkey


Well, there go my mATX tri-fire plans...


----------



## exyia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If you want to make up an all in one unit you can just buy the parts separately
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17756/ex-pmp-226/EK_D5_Dual_CSQ_Pump_Top_-_Acetal_-_Black_Laing_D5_Swiftech_MCP650655655-PWM_EK-D5_Dual_TOP_G14_CSQ_-_Black_Acetal.html?tl=g57c595s1935
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17957/ex-pmp-227/EK_D5_Dual_X-Res_Link_Adapter_-_Acetal_-_Black_EK-D5_Dual_X-RES_Link_CSQ.html#blank
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17773/ex-res-463/EK_X3_Reservoir_Replacement_Tube_-_250_EK-RES_X3_-_TUBE_250_204mm.html?tl=g57c615s1884&id=dgSXyXWo&mv_pc=2455
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20940/ex-res-637/EK_X3_Reservoir_Replacement_Anticyclone_EK-RES_X3_-_Anticyclone_SHORT.html?tl=g57c615s1940&id=dgSXyXWo&mv_pc=2658
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18484/ex-res-480/EK_X3_Reservoir_Replacement_Top_-_Black_EK-RES_X3_-_TOP.html?tl=g57c615s1884&id=dgSXyXWo&mv_pc=2447
> 
> Or use the Multiport top
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17769/ex-res-460/EK_X3_Reservoir_Multiport_Replacement_Top_EK-RES_X3_-_Multiport_TOP.html?tl=g57c615s1884&id=dgSXyXWo&mv_pc=2801
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23944/ex-res-693/EK_X3_Resevoir_Internal_Tube_-_40mm_EK-RES_X3_-_Internal_Tube_1216_40mm.html?tl=g57c615s1884&id=dgSXyXWo&mv_pc=2821
> 
> The Parts come with all the Orings needed. The Single port top just needs a stop plug to be added for it. ( Unless you are gonna use an external fill port and tube of course)
> The Multi port top comes with 3 stop plugs but has 5 ports so if you don't use any of them you need two extra


wow thanks a ton! now just need to determine radiators, which will probably have to wait until the case gets here for measurements


----------



## inedenimadam

Doesn't EK have a vendor in Florida somewhere? I am moving to Orlando and could swear there was a vender I had purchased EK stuff from that had a FLA address on the box.

Never mind, found my receipt, Performance-pcs.com

Edit again:

Hour drive to my neighborhood....









But I will be loosing my Microcenter


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Doesn't EK have a vendor in Florida somewhere? I am moving to Orlando and could swear there was a vender I had purchased EK stuff from that had a FLA address on the box.
> 
> Never mind, found my receipt, Performance-pcs.com
> 
> Edit again:
> 
> Hour drive to my neighborhood....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I will be loosing my Microcenter


Welcome to Florida, I'm in Melbourne Beach about 10minutes from Performance PCs, yea no Microcenter but if you're water cooling nothing is easier than picking up new parts and driving back returns than Performance PCs, and the glorious sleeving is worth the trip.

"Come out to the coast we'll get together have a few laughs"

DieHard movie reference.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Doesn't EK have a vendor in Florida somewhere? I am moving to Orlando and could swear there was a vender I had purchased EK stuff from that had a FLA address on the box.
> 
> Never mind, found my receipt, Performance-pcs.com
> 
> Edit again:
> 
> Hour drive to my neighborhood....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I will be loosing my Microcenter


I lived in Orlando for 5 years and now I'm back in south Florida... Not having micro center is terribly annoying when you see awesome deals on their site or pcpartpicker, but it might even be more convenient/cheaper for you to pay shipping and wait one day for delivery from performance pcs rather then paying for gas for the roundtrip!


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> I lived in Orlando for 5 years and now I'm back in south Florida... Not having micro center is terribly annoying when you see awesome deals on their site or pcpartpicker, but it might even be more convenient/cheaper for you to pay shipping and wait one day for delivery from performance pcs rather then paying for gas for the roundtrip!


But what if he wants to go to the beach? and pick up watercooling parts on the way back?

A Day Trip with the family, or sexy girlfriend.

Performance PCs and ocean air, a nice tan with your feet in the water.









..


----------



## inedenimadam

water cooling components are harder to come by locally, so having a full outfitted EK vendor an hour a way will benefit my need for instant gratification more so than having a microcenter an hour away. I know it is the age of the internet shop and deliver, but give me brick and mortar, and I will be a happy camper.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Doesn't EK have a vendor in Florida somewhere? I am moving to Orlando and could swear there was a vender I had purchased EK stuff from that had a FLA address on the box.
> 
> But I will be loosing my Microcenter


Theres a tigerdirect in orlando.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> water cooling components are harder to come by locally, so having a full outfitted EK vendor an hour a way will benefit my need for instant gratification more so than having a microcenter an hour away. I know it is the age of the internet shop and deliver, but give me brick and mortar, and I will be a happy camper.


Performance PCs in Palm Bay, next to Harris Corporation.

http://harris.com/

Instant 60minute gratification.









..


----------



## llamaegg

I'm just jealous of all you guys talking about placed being an hour away, I have no choice but to order , and to make mater worst being in Canada means I'm waiting and paying even more in import charges with the small selection available out here!

Someone want to drive into Canada to bring me stuff?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamaegg*
> 
> I'm just jealous of all you guys talking about placed being an hour away, I have no choice but to order , and to make mater worst being in Canada means I'm waiting and paying even more in import charges with the small selection available out here!
> 
> Someone want to drive into Canada to bring me stuff?


Buy from dazmode mebe?


----------



## llamaegg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Buy from dazmode mebe?


Plan to for what I can, but typically I've found he doesn't have the largest selection. In the end I'll still be needing to order some stuff elsewhere.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamaegg*
> 
> Plan to for what I can, but typically I've found he doesn't have the largest selection. In the end I'll still be needing to order some stuff elsewhere.


It depends on the brand you're looking for. Daz can have about everything EK and Bitspower are selling.


----------



## derickwm

If you're looking for our products and Dazmode doesn't carry them, send him an email and we can have them shipped to him if he requests them.


----------



## llamaegg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It depends on the brand you're looking for. Daz can have about everything EK and Bitspower are selling.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If you're looking for _our_ products and Dazmode doesn't carry them, send him an email and we can have them shipped to him if he requests them.


Thankfully I do plan to do deck my rig out with EK 'blocks, which I'm 99% sure he had last time I checked, though it's nice to know it wouldn't be hard to special order something in if needed!


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamaegg*
> 
> *I'm just jealous of all you guys talking about placed being an hour away*, I have no choice but to order , and to make mater worst being in Canada means I'm waiting and paying even more in import charges with the small selection available out here!
> 
> Someone want to drive into Canada to bring me stuff?


I'm jealous of everyone who seems to live across the street from a MicroCenter but what can I do about it but drive 8hours into Georgia?

nothing.

The gas would cost more than the money saved...


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I'm jealous of everyone who seems to live across the street from a MicroCenter but what can I do about it but drive 8hours into Georgia?
> 
> nothing.
> 
> The gas would cost more than the money saved...


Exactly... That's half the case with me and Ppcs now.. I'm 3 hrs away but for 3-6$ I can have 1 day delivery


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I'm jealous of everyone who seems to live across the street from a MicroCenter but what can I do about it but drive 8hours into Georgia?
> 
> nothing.
> 
> The gas would cost more than the money saved...


cant have the best of both worlds









My next build "Sock Tucker" will be coming up soon, and will be decked out with all EK stuff. I would rather have quick access to watercooling stuff, as that is the area that I have less experience with, and will likely need parts more often. Most regular components can be local sourced even if they are not the cheapest on the market.

Just waiting on x99 and the full Maxwell to become available.

I will look you up when I get in town.


----------



## fireedo

how long is processing time needed from valid payment to shipping the item(s) ?
coz this is my first time ordering from EKWB online shop and since my payment (8 July 2014) till now there is still no shipping news

I want to hear some experience here before I submitting a ticket


----------



## MiiX

Does anyone have the dimensions of the EK CSQ 90-degree fittings?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireedo*
> 
> how long is processing time needed from valid payment to shipping the item(s) ?
> coz this is my first time ordering from EKWB online shop and since my payment (8 July 2014) till now there is still no shipping news
> 
> I want to hear some experience here before I submitting a ticket


What method of payment did you use?

And what products did you order?


----------



## fireedo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> What method of payment did you use?
> 
> And what products did you order?


I'm using paypal as my payment method
here, I take a screenshot from my account :


can u help me?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> What method of payment did you use?
> 
> And what products did you order?


Hi Derrick - I'm in the same boat as fireedo. Although I only ordered on the 9th of July and the website does state that it may take a couple of days to process an order [and now its the weekend] so I was not getting all that concerned myself.

This is also my very first order with EKWB so I am not sure of the typical order processing time either.

Here are my items [which were listed as in stock at the time the order was placed].


----------



## USFORCES

I sure hope I never have memory issues


----------



## GringoKillah1

*fireedo
Costas*

lol guys, it's okay. I ordered in EKshop 24th June and they send me my order only 11th July,







so dont worry


----------



## derickwm

The webshop is basically ran by two guys. It's a very small operation and they work pretty damn hard all day long trying to get orders ready and shipped out. Usually takes a little while, but once shipped it'll only take 2-5 days to arrive depending on where you're located. If you don't hear anything next week PM me your order numbers and I'll look into it.

@USFORCES that looks great man.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*


how do you change the currency on the web page?


----------



## ckoons1

Why do some gtx 770 video cards fit on the EK FC680 CSQ water block and some don't?

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/review/product/list/id/1248/category/213/

Does it fit on ALL GTX 770 REFERENCE cards?

Thank you


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckoons1*
> 
> Why do some gtx 770 video cards fit on the EK FC680 CSQ water block and some don't?
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/review/product/list/id/1248/category/213/
> 
> Does it fit on ALL GTX 770 REFERENCE cards?
> 
> Thank you


The 770 is really a very slightly rejigged 680. As such some manufacturers just reused their 680 PCB's.

The ref 770 PCB was only used by a very few cards ... mainly EVGA. Those cards use the EK FC770
http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109868232

What block is needed depends entirely on the manufacturer and model. There are a lot of brand new never used 770 blocks for sale by people who assumed their card would fit.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The webshop is basically ran by two guys. It's a very small operation and they work pretty damn hard all day long trying to get orders ready and shipped out.


Thanks for the info - I had assumed that may have been the case [ie a small crew] but since I had not dealt with them previously I was unsure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> how do you change the currency on the web page?


There is a pull down menu option on the site which allows you to change the currency - If you select say AUD as in my case - the site will automatically remove the VAT Tax.

Note that once the shipping and products are totaled up, you will be charged in Euro's so just be aware of that.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Thanks for the info - I had assumed that may have been the case [ie a small crew] but since I had not dealt with them previously I was unsure.
> There is a pull down menu option on the site which allows you to change the currency - If you select say AUD as in my case - the site will automatically remove the VAT Tax.
> 
> Note that once the shipping and products are totaled up, you will be charged in Euro's so just be aware of that.


thanks i am blind








i see now:
Dear customer,
Payment for every purchase made in our shop will be made in EUR. Extra fee may occur if you are paying from foreign currency.

who will charge the extra fee?Last time i didnt know i can pay with usd and my credit card company or paypal charged me 15euro more when converting usd to euro.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> who will charge the extra fee?


Usually your merchant/bank/Paypal.

For instance if I pay direct with my credit card my bank will charge me a currency conversion fee on top of the charges.

If you use Paypal - they will not charge a separate conversion fee as such but they factor this in when you do a currency conversion....

You don't really have much choice in the matter......


----------



## brandotip

Anyone know of a good video guide on installing EK WB and BP on a GTX 780 reference?


----------



## SDMODNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Anyone know of a good video guide on installing EK WB and BP on a GTX 780 reference?


I used this video when I did mine, same pcb design as Titan so there should be no problem.






This video by Jay is also good he actually does it on a 780


----------



## Buehlar

Almost...







*Mif-Lif Cry-Sys*


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Almost...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Mif-Lif Cry-Sys*


That is freaking cool man... Good job


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> I used this video when I did mine, same pcb design as Titan so there should be no problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video by Jay is also good he actually does it on a 780


Thank you! I've seen the jay one but not the other +rep


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The webshop is basically ran by two guys. It's a very small operation and they work pretty damn hard all day long trying to get orders ready and shipped out. Usually takes a little while, but once shipped it'll only take 2-5 days to arrive depending on where you're located.


Looks like my EKWB WC gear is on its way via UPS...!

So its all good....


----------



## Papuz

It is possible that there are MB waterblock compatible with P9X79E-WS?


----------



## akira749

I can't talk on behalf of EK...but with the upcoming new X99 platform right around the corner, I don't think they are going to invest money on other X79 motherboards. They bring blocks for the RIVBE because of the popularity of the board...but I think that will be all for the X79 platform.

But I could be wrong


----------



## VSG

^ You don't need to talk on behalf of them. Derick had confirmed earlier in this thread they won't be going back to making any more FC blocks for older boards.

Best solution I can think of are the universal type Aquacomputer/Watercool VRM/Mosfet blocks.


----------



## lowfat

That board has one of the best looking heatsinks anyways IMO.


----------



## VSG

Ya, and not to mention one that actually does work well and isn't just a fancy shape.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ You don't need to talk on behalf of them. Derick had confirmed earlier in this thread they won't be going back to making any more FC blocks for older boards.
> 
> Best solution I can think of are the universal type Aquacomputer/Watercool VRM/Mosfet blocks.


----------



## Geoffrey4283

Any chance someone could provide the LxW measurements of the top block/piece of the M6I (Impact VI FB block), and the distances from the edge to the center of the inlet and outlet (just from the long ends; since they're centered width-wise, I can back into that). Thanks in advance!


----------



## MiiX

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-sbay-ddc-3-2-pwm-incl-pump.html
Measurements anyone? Depth is what I really need...


----------



## ozzy1925

today,i received my replacament tops from ek:

unlucky me these also having the same issue i think its a common issue with these blocks


as you see cracks are inside the plexi i cant feel them with my nail.Anyways i will use them and make sure to leak test them more than 24 hours


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Does anyone have a good trick on screwing the tops for EK reservoir to have them line up ?


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> today,i received my replacament tops from ek:
> 
> unlucky me these also having the same issue i think its a common issue with these blocks
> 
> 
> as you see cracks are inside the plexi i cant feel them with my nail.Anyways i will use them and make sure to leak test them more than 24 hours


That sucks for you man, I'd work it out with EK, again.

@derickwm Could you explain the difference between the regular EK blocks for the R9 290X and the new SE version?


----------



## MeanBruce

Ahhhhhh, not so happy with my choice of CPU blocks, considering an EK, any suggestions on which one performs best?

Trying to find reviews right now, only had my loop up and running for 4days, the XSPC copper is gorgeous but difficult to work with heavy and the Tygon Norprene has almost zero flexibility very unforgiving in tight places.

Any suggestions extremely welcomed.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> today,i received my replacament tops from ek:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> unlucky me these also having the same issue i think its a common issue with these blocks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as you see cracks are inside the plexi i cant feel them with my nail.Anyways i will use them and make sure to leak test them more than 24 hours


Potential for the cracks to propagate into larger cracks is something you'll want to take into consideration once everything is installed in your loop.
Your components and coolant will get nice and warm which may aid in the cracks getting larger.

I'd recommend working with EK to get this issue fixed before using it.
Sorry man...


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> @derickwm Could you explain the difference between the regular EK blocks for the R9 290X and the new SE version?


"EK Water Blocks, Ljubljana based premium water cooling gear manufacturer, is about to release a new Full-Cover water block for TUL Corporation's (Power Color, Club3D and VTX3D) AMD® Radeon® R9 290(X) graphics cards with amended (non-reference) circuit board design R29FA."

It's not for the regular reference PCB built by AMD. V1 and V2 will be for most reference PCbs. SE is for the slightly modified PCB, R29FA done by PowerColor, Club3D and VTX3D. The situation is unfortunate but nothing we can do. Be sure to check coolingconfigurator before buying.

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Ahhhhhh, not so happy with my choice of CPU blocks, considering an EK, any suggestions on which one performs best?
> 
> Trying to find reviews right now, only had my loop up and running for 4days, the XSPC copper is gorgeous but difficult to work with heavy and the Tygon Norprene has almost zero flexibility very unforgiving in tight places.
> 
> Any suggestions extremely welcomed.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> "EK Water Blocks, Ljubljana based premium water cooling gear manufacturer, is about to release a new Full-Cover water block for TUL Corporation's (Power Color, Club3D and VTX3D) AMD® Radeon® R9 290(X) graphics cards with amended (non-reference) circuit board design R29FA."


Thank you, I misread that part apperently. I wish hardware manufacturers would work together more closely, to help the consumer and to help bring down cost.


----------



## VSG

^Was about to post that graph myself.

@MeanBruce, why are you unhappy with the performance of the block? Expected much more compared to previous air cooler? Did you check for a bad mount if the temps were higher than you liked?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Ahhhhhh, not so happy with my choice of CPU blocks, considering an EK, any suggestions on which one performs best?
> 
> Trying to find reviews right now, only had my loop up and running for 4days, the XSPC copper is gorgeous but difficult to work with heavy and the Tygon Norprene has almost zero flexibility very unforgiving in tight places.
> 
> Any suggestions extremely welcomed.


Supremacy Block in Nickel + Naked Ivy Kit + Coolab Ultra is a beastly combination for a cooling set up.

I have never worked with the noprene tubing specifically, but I have a suggestion:

Rubber, vinyl, and plastics get pliable when they are warm, which is why tubing retains most of its shape when it has been in a water loop for a while. My suggestion would be to get a stiff wire coat hanger or two to run down the tubing in roughly the shape you want. Then stick it in some boiling water, take it out after a bit and bend it closer to the shape you want. Let it cool and repeat until the tubing is close enough to the shape you need it that it will bend easily into place.

Again, I have never tried this, but it sounds like a good idea in my head!

Best of luck.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> "EK Water Blocks, Ljubljana based premium water cooling gear manufacturer, is about to release a new Full-Cover water block for TUL Corporation's (Power Color, Club3D and VTX3D) AMD® Radeon® R9 290(X) graphics cards with amended (non-reference) circuit board design R29FA."


Pffft rotated cpu-380 wins unless you delid and go naked with the supremacy naked kit, or unless you get an EK monoblock


----------



## VSG

^ i7 3770k, no monoblock in there.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> That sucks for you man, I'd work it out with EK, again.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Potential for the cracks to propagate into larger cracks is something you'll want to take into consideration once everything is installed in your loop.
> Your components and coolant will get nice and warm which may aid in the cracks getting larger.
> 
> I'd recommend working with EK to get this issue fixed before using it.
> Sorry man...


i sent them an email 2 days ago but still no answer ...


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^Was about to post that graph myself.
> 
> @MeanBruce, why are you unhappy with the performance of the block? Expected much more compared to previous air cooler? Did you check for a bad mount if the temps were higher than you liked?


I followed the Gelid GC instructions and spread and even layer of thermal paste over the Ivy Bridge IHS. Going to reseat tomorrow using the in line with die method that gives improved results with Ivy, and uses much less thermal paste, the XSPC copper is difficult to position, guess I'm used to the light in comparison H100i coldplate, time to become a man and work this whole thing out.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Supremacy Block in Nickel + Naked Ivy Kit + Coolab Ultra is a beastly combination for a cooling set up.
> 
> I have never worked with the noprene tubing specifically, but I have a suggestion:
> 
> Rubber, vinyl, and plastics get pliable when they are warm, which is why tubing retains most of its shape when it has been in a water loop for a while. My suggestion would be to get a stiff wire coat hanger or two to run down the tubing in roughly the shape you want. Then stick it in some boiling water, take it out after a bit and bend it closer to the shape you want. Let it cool and repeat until the tubing is close enough to the shape you need it that it will bend easily into place.
> 
> Again, I have never tried this, but it sounds like a good idea in my head!
> 
> Best of luck.


Awesome, I still have some Coolab Ultra hanging around, thank you +1 +1 +1.









Geez too late for the pre-molding of the Norprene, I positioned and placed it in cold and hard, did not realize it's thermoplastic properties.

Supremecy naked kit Absolutely.









Ordering from Performance PCs


----------



## wermad

Anyone find out if the 295x2 block lines up with the 290x block?


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone find out if the 295x2 block lines up with the 290x block?


There was a response from Derick saying the ports don't line up. I know, I'm crushed too









Still planing to buy one though


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> There was a response from Derick saying the ports don't line up. I know, I'm crushed too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still planing to buy one though


Tnx









I believe the koolance blocks line up on the ports that face the rear of the case. Saw something like that in the 295x2 club. Well it'll be a while but good to know ek compatibility.


----------



## Pheozero

So, quick question. I'm planning on getting a pedestal and two more rads for my case and decided I want most of the WC stuff in my case to match. So that means I'm buying some more EK rads. There is kinda only two rads I can choose which is the XTX 360 and the PE 360. Which one should I get? Is it worth paying a extra $27 for the XTX? Spacing isn't a concern since I can fit both of them in Push or Push/Pull.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ i7 3770k, no monoblock in there.


No kidding... I'd love to see specs on the R4BE monoblock among those listed blocks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> So, quick question. I'm planning on getting a pedestal and two more rads for my case and decided I want most of the WC stuff in my case to match. So that means I'm buying some more EK rads. There is kinda only two rads I can choose which is the XTX 360 and the PE 360. Which one should I get? Is it worth paying a extra $27 for the XTX? Spacing isn't a concern since I can fit both of them in Push or Push/Pull.


I think PEs are higher density fin rads, so medium to high speed fans work best with them (> 1500rpm). XTX are thicker XT rads with standard fin density so they should work along the lines of RX, SR1, UT60, etc. These work great with low to medium rpm fans. The XTX are 60mm thick and the PE's are 38mm.


----------



## cephelix

guys, planning to get the thermosphere for my msi R9 290 gaming and saw that there are quite a number of different mounting plate adapters on frozencpu. question is are they required?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> guys, planning to get the thermosphere for my msi R9 290 gaming and saw that there are quite a number of different mounting plate adapters on frozencpu. question is are they required?


Yes, they are definitely required.

And word of warning, make sure it has the correct spacers with it and check that it makes contact when you mount it.. Mine was sent with the incorrect sized spacers, so the block never actually made contact with the GPU die.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> guys, planning to get the thermosphere for my msi R9 290 gaming and saw that there are quite a number of different mounting plate adapters on frozencpu. question is are they required?


Make sure to keep the VRMs cool, since these blocks don't cover them.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yes, they are definitely required.
> 
> And word of warning, make sure it has the correct spacers with it and check that it makes contact when you mount it.. Mine was sent with the incorrect sized spacers, so the block never actually made contact with the GPU die.


thanks for the quick reply...
+rep to you


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Make sure to keep the VRMs cool, since these blocks don't cover them.


I've noticed so far, on my 270X, that the VRM's havent been getting that hot, even without dedicated cooling for them via directed fan or heatsinks. They haven't gotten above 55C so far during any gaming or testing.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Make sure to keep the VRMs cool, since these blocks don't cover them.


yeap....will take measurements this weekend before i order the heatsinks...


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I've noticed so far, on my 270X, that the VRM's havent been getting that hot, even without dedicated cooling for them via directed fan or heatsinks. They haven't gotten above 55C so far during any gaming or testing.


The 290s are a different breed than the 270Xs.


----------



## cephelix

yeah, VRM1 heats up real quick especially once you start playing with voltages


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> yeap....will take measurements this weekend before i order the heatsinks...


These will fit. *LINK*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> The 290s are a different breed than the 270Xs.


Very true. Just wanted to share my experience so far with leaving my VRM's bare.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I think PEs are higher density fin rads, so medium to high speed fans work best with them (> 1500rpm). XTX are thicker XT rads with standard fin density so they should work along the lines of RX, SR1, UT60, etc. These work great with low to medium rpm fans. The XTX are 60mm thick and the PE's are 38mm.


Yeah, I'm still going back and forth between Cougars and NB Multiframes. Now that I think about it, I might go with the PE's since when I rebuild, I'm probably going to have a dual pump top in the pedestal so I can have dual reservoirs in the case à la snef's Sand of God style. Thanks though.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> These will fit. *LINK*
> Very true. Just wanted to share my experience so far with leaving my VRM's bare.


thanks for that.....


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> No kidding... I'd love to see specs on the R4BE monoblock among those listed blocks.


Yeah I didn't see bruce had a 3770k. I tested the Impact monoblock and it performed better than supremacy and CPU-380 so I suspect the R4EBE monoblock is the same way








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Make sure to keep the VRMs cool, since these blocks don't cover them.


True that - Swiftech block during 290 block testing had VRMs at 110C, and that was with a waterblock








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> These will fit. *LINK*
> Very true. Just wanted to share my experience so far with leaving my VRM's bare.


I'll have to get some of those when I move onto universal block reviews next.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Yeah, I'm still going back and forth between Cougars and NB Multiframes. Now that I think about it, I might go with the PE's since when I rebuild, I'm probably going to have a dual pump top in the pedestal so I can have dual reservoirs in the case à la snef's Sand of God style. Thanks though.


I'm on UT60s and work great with my Cougars in p/p. My Cougar 140s max out @ 1k but I usually have them @ 400rpm for extremely quiet acoustics. I've had GTX HL rads with CM R4s that spin up to 2k but the noise was too much. They did work fine at 800rpm though it was in a mix bag of different styles of rads/makes.

PE's look better though imho and they're thinner. Ultimately, most of us go overkill with our loops so you should have plenty of rad powah


----------



## derickwm

Anyone with a delayed order from our webshop, I found out this morning that *one of the two* guys who package all of those orders has been on vacation for the past two weeks! Orders are a few days behind but they're being worked on and should be all caught up soon! Apologies for the delay.


----------



## Dire Squirrel




----------



## TheCautiousOne

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/image/22311/ex-blc-1596.jpg/ex-blc-1596/EK_GeForce_780_GTX_Ti_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_CSQ_EK-FC780_GTX_Ti_-_Nickel_Original_CSQ.html

Will this waterblock fit a regular EVGA 780 FTW??


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/image/22311/ex-blc-1596.jpg/ex-blc-1596/EK_GeForce_780_GTX_Ti_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_CSQ_EK-FC780_GTX_Ti_-_Nickel_Original_CSQ.html
> 
> Will this waterblock fit a regular EVGA 780 FTW??


The EVGA 780 FTW doesn't have a compatible waterblock. But You can go with an EK-Thermosphere if you want


----------



## wh0kn0ws

I recently added my gpu to the loop. I really like how it turned out.

http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/ian1alcorn/media/IMG_1029_zps9ad8aa62.jpg.html


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The EVGA 780 FTW doesn't have a compatible waterblock. But You can go with an EK-Thermosphere if you want


what about an XSPC full waterblock for the evga 780ti? Are they compatible?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_587&products_id=39810or


----------



## VSG

Afraid not, your best bet would be to go for a universal block for the core and heatsinks for the other components.


----------



## VSG

Another EK survey I saw posted on facebook: https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/ekwb1

This time it's more specific and comes with a chance for prizes too


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> what about an XSPC full waterblock for the evga 780ti? Are they compatible?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_587&products_id=39810or


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Afraid not, your best bet would be to go for a universal block for the core and heatsinks for the other components.


As geggeg said I don't think so. XSPC blocks are for reference PCB's only


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Alright then!! Thanks again. I am trying to learn!!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Alright then!! Thanks again. I am trying to learn!!


Totally understandable









In the beginning it can be heavy to manage the compatibility so feel free to ask again if you have other questions


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dire Squirrel*


Do you have to buy this part, or is this the link that comes with the waterblock? I'm thinking I'd rather use this to link two GTX 760's than use the SLI bridge thing.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Do you have to buy this part, or is this the link that comes with the waterblock? I'm thinking I'd rather use this to link two GTX 760's than use the SLI bridge thing.


That's the terminal unit that comes with each EK clean CSQ FC GPU block. You will need an SLI connector or a multi GPU terminal if you have blocks with those.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's the terminal unit that comes with each EK clean CSQ FC GPU block. You will need an SLI connector or a multi GPU terminal if you have blocks with those.


Ok, so I absolutely have to use EK-FC Bridge DUAL Serial CSQ - Plexi with two EK FC670 GTX Full Coverage Water Copper Water Block?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Ok, so I absolutely have to use EK-FC Bridge DUAL Serial CSQ - Plexi with two EK FC670 GTX Full Coverage Water Copper Water Block?


Afraid so. But check out lowfat's polishing guide and you can have the whole thing looking soooooooo good!


----------



## wermad

Simple tip: if you have multiple circles etched into the external design of the gpu block, you need the the "CSQ" bridges.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Ok, so I absolutely have to use EK-FC Bridge DUAL Serial CSQ - Plexi with two EK FC670 GTX Full Coverage Water Copper Water Block?


Or you could use 2x EK-FC Bridge SINGLE CSQ - Plexi


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Afraid so. But check out lowfat's polishing guide and you can have the whole thing looking soooooooo good!


Subscribed to that thread. So, I definitely do plan on polishing all the blocks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Or you could use 2x EK-FC Bridge SINGLE CSQ - Plexi


I dunno, I haven't seen a picture on how these look when set up, but I can use the dual link and have it nice and polished.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> I dunno, I haven't seen a picture on how these look when set up, but I can use the dual link and have it nice and polished.


I haven't seen one myself too...it's probably because generally the CSQ guys like to use their dual/triple/quad bridge instead of tube connections


----------



## wermad

The single csq bridges give you dual horizontal ports for the csq. The block has horizontal but bottom facing ports (once installed in atx layout). The link EK includes converts these ports to vertical ports to attach to the CSQ bridges. The single CSQ bridge takes the block's down-facing ports and gives you dual horizontal ports like the new Clean blocks (and the old Classic).


----------



## snef

2 x single FC terminal look like that

they are polished

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-5_zpsbcf9d23b.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-4_zps89b4350d.jpg.html


----------



## akira749

I knew I had seen it somewhere!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks Snef


----------



## lowfat

The CSQ single links look awesome.


----------



## wermad

Are the circles stained on purpose or is it catching the color reflection of the liquid? Looks awesome Snef & Low


----------



## MeanBruce

Wow lowfat and snef, beeeuuuteeeful, I've looked everywhere for EK CPU block hardware in matte black PPCS and Frozen are only showing nickel plated Ugh.









Do you have to purchase the black directly from the EK store?

Going ahead with the EK's Naked Ivy kit and this Supremacy block, looks like small holes on the left side for a couple white LEDs yay.









http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_498_490&products_id=37570

Just got a syringe of Gelid for $13 from Amazon, and EK includes one with the block?

Why did I go XSPC Copper? Why why why?


----------



## lowfat

@wermad those would just be reflections.

@MeanBruce my mounting hardware has either been plastidipped or covered in heatshrink depending on the part. It was all silver originally.


----------



## fast_fate

Hey Guys,
After some clarification if possible on some jet plates.
Going through some gear and found a set of jet plates which I'm fairly certain are for the Supreme HF.

But what I have doesn't match up with what is pictured on the EK store.
1st is the EK store pics side by side, which is a set and then just jet plate #6
followed by a pic of the set I have.

 


What I think I have is JP#6 on the bottom which was a later release, and the set that came with the block across the top.

Comparing what I have with the EK pics, it seems that they have dropped the plate I have on top left (JP#1 maybe) and now include JP#6 instead ?

So questions...
Is my above conclusions correct ?
JP#6 (bottom one in my pic) best for LGA2011 ?
anyone have luck cutting their own jet plate with the blank - for improvements in flow and temps ?
I'm thinking of removing the center strip on JP#3 for a shot









Cheers
f-f


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> @wermad those would just be reflections.
> 
> @MeanBruce my mounting hardware has either been plastidipped or covered in heatshrink depending on the part. It was all silver originally.


Thanks rep +1, just ordered one spray can of Plasti-dip, matte black, it's gonna be so pretty.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The single csq bridges give you dual horizontal ports for the csq. The block has horizontal but bottom facing ports (once installed in atx layout). The link EK includes converts these ports to vertical ports to attach to the CSQ bridges. The single CSQ bridge takes the block's down-facing ports and gives you dual horizontal ports like the new Clean blocks (and the old Classic).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 2 x single FC terminal look like that
> 
> they are polished
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-5_zpsbcf9d23b.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-4_zps89b4350d.jpg.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The CSQ single links look awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Does look good, but it doesn't look like it would work with the SLI setup on a Asus Maximus VII Gene, the PCI-E slots are too close to each other.

--EDIT--
Or maybe it would work. I'm not completely sure.


Note: This isn't the case I plan on doing water cooling in.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> After some clarification if possible on some jet plates.
> Going through some gear and found a set of jet plates which I'm fairly certain are for the Supreme HF.
> 
> But what I have doesn't match up with what is pictured on the EK store.
> 1st is the EK store pics side by side, which is a set and then just jet plate #6
> followed by a pic of the set I have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I think I have is JP#6 on the bottom which was a later release, and the set that came with the block across the top.
> 
> Comparing what I have with the EK pics, it seems that they have dropped the plate I have on top left (JP#1 maybe) and now include JP#6 instead ?
> 
> So questions...
> Is my above conclusions correct ?
> JP#6 (bottom one in my pic) best for LGA2011 ?
> anyone have luck cutting their own jet plate with the blank - for improvements in flow and temps ?
> I'm thinking of removing the center strip on JP#3 for a shot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers
> f-f


Yeah, those look just like the set of plates that came with my Supreme HF. I got mine shortly after release and you're correct, JP#6 was a later release. Looks like JP#1 might have been to restrictive.

I'm unsure which gives best performance, iirc EK recommended #4 or the fourth from the left in the pics.

Never attempted to cut my own from the blank. Pretty sure I just rolled with JP#4.


----------



## MiiX

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-sbay-ddc-3-2-pwm-incl-pump.html
Measurements anyone? Depth is what I really need...

SGS4


----------



## pathfindercod

Some more EK Pr0n from my build:
Link to my build if anyone is interested:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1496953/build-log-case-labs-mercury-s8-triple-threat

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/Build log 1/_DSC5410_zpsf6a8d7f5.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/Build log 1/_DSC5405_zpsa8158f5c.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/Build log 1/_DSC5406_zps518f2475.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/Build log 1/_DSC5408_zpsc741837c.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/Build log 1/_DSC5424_zpse08839bd.jpg.html


----------



## fireedo

hi,

finally I got my first custom water cooling config using EKWB for my VGA up and running, now I interested using custom water cooling on my CPU too, my question is about the pump, is it enough to cooling an overclocked CPU and overclocked GPU?

here are my current water cooling system :





and if that is perfect then this are my next buy from EKWB :


so what do think guys?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireedo*
> 
> hi,
> 
> finally I got my first custom water cooling config using EKWB for my VGA up and running, now I interested using custom water cooling on my CPU too, my question is about the pump, is it enough to cooling an overclocked CPU and overclocked GPU?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> here are my current water cooling system :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and if that is perfect then this are my next buy from EKWB :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so what do think guys?


I actually have a CPU and pair of gpus going through 600mm of radiator on that pump. It is a fine pump and you will still have room to grow.

Edit: Overclocking does not affect the flow rate.


----------



## fireedo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I actually have a CPU and pair of gpus going through 600mm of radiator on that pump. It is a fine pump and you will still have room to grow.
> 
> Edit: Overclocking does not affect the flow rate.


wow thanx a lot for your quick reply...well then I'm glad because i dont have to change the pump since the pump and res they really sit nicely on my case


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Does anyone have a good trick on screwing the tops for EK reservoir to have them line up ?


Anybody?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Does anyone have a good trick on screwing the tops for EK reservoir to have them line up ?
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody?
Click to expand...

You could try the general rule for threads...

Gently place cap, keep light pressure while screwing backwards til you feel the top drop a little. That drop will be the end of the threads for both the container and top meeting, and are properly lined up to begin screwing forwards again. This keeps the possibility of cross threading down to a minimum. The drop is much easier to notice on coarser threads, like soda tops, or peanut butter jars, but the principal is the same for all thread against thread items.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Anybody?


What Inedenimadam said

What I found was if you want them to line up, you have to accept that they won't be screwed entirely tightly. Leak test the rad on its own beforehand.


----------



## fireedo

hi,
Quick question guys, what do u think about this schema : Res --> Pump ---> Rad (120) ---> GPU (R9 295x2) ---> Rad (360) ---> Res ?

thx


----------



## MiiX

Loop order does not matter, as long as the res is above and directly before the pump.
Its all about smaller/tidier loops. The shorter the hoses, the better(usually)


----------



## fireedo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Loop order does not matter, as long as the res is above and directly before the pump.
> Its all about smaller/tidier loops. The shorter the hoses, the better(usually)


I'm currently using EK DCP 4.0 combo pump Reservoir, is that ok?


----------



## MiiX

Yes ofcourse. I think that pump performs Ok in such a loop, but someone else might have a better answer.


----------



## fireedo

greaat, thx a lot


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireedo*
> 
> hi,
> Quick question guys, what do u think about this schema : Res --> Pump ---> Rad (120) ---> GPU (R9 295x2) ---> Rad (360) ---> Res ?
> 
> thx


That's how I plan on setting up my system, though not watercooling your CPU? My setup will be: Res/Pump --> Rad (240) --> CPU --> Rad (360) --> GPU --> Res/Pump.


----------



## fireedo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> That's how I plan on setting up my system, though not watercooling your CPU? My setup will be: Res/Pump --> Rad (240) --> CPU --> Rad (360) --> GPU --> Res/Pump.


for now my corsair H110 doin good job to keep cpu temp...well maybe next will be : res-->pump--> Rad (240) ---> CPU ---> Rad (120) ---> GPU ---> Rad (360) ---> Res (dunno if that ok)


----------



## WiSK

You don't need to put a rad between each waterblock. Water moves the heat so fast there is no advantage


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You don't need to put a rad between each waterblock. Water moves the heat so fast there is no advantage


^ this

even at full load the bottom GPU is only 1-2C higher than the top in my loop.

Here they are at idle/browsing:


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> ^ this
> 
> even at full load the bottom GPU is only 1-2C higher than the top in my loop.
> 
> Here they are at idle/browsing:


So, you only need one radiator in the entire system?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> ^ this
> 
> even at full load the bottom GPU is only 1-2C higher than the top in my loop.
> 
> Here they are at idle/browsing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, you only need one radiator in the entire system?
Click to expand...

No, I have a 360 and a 240, but they are together in the loop. It goes res-pump-rad-rad-cpu-gpu-gpu. You could rearrange a res in between blocks if you want, but remember that the shortest path with the least turns provides the best flow rate.


----------



## MeanBruce

My order is

pump > rad > CPU block > back to pump, is that right? Happy with the results but the Tygon Norprene flexes very little had to use 3 angled rotarys out of only 6 fittings total.

Have to give the tubing credit for its compressive properties though, with the Monsoon fittings the seal is so tight I could suspend my filled radiator the entire loop outside of my chassis holding on to only the pump and top in midair, no leaks no signs of slippage, zero, this stuff is very strong.

(I built, filled and bled the loop outside of the rig using an external PSU)

It lifts out easily for maintenance.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8716_zpsfe97b914.jpg.html


----------



## cstkl1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> My order is
> 
> pump > rad > CPU block > back to pump, is that right? Happy with the results but the Tygon Norprene flexes very little had to use 3 angled rotarys out of only 6 fittings total.
> 
> Have to give the tubing credit for its compressive properties though, with the Monsoon fittings the seal is so tight I could suspend my filled radiator the entire loop outside of my chassis holding on to only the pump and top in midair, no leaks no signs of slippage, zero, this stuff is very strong.
> 
> (I built, filled and bled the loop outside of the rig using an external PSU)
> 
> It lifts out easily for maintenance.
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8716_zpsfe97b914.jpg.html


not sure on ure id/od but the last time i used neoprene was the mod for my coolits and .. hmm they are very easy to tear. so the fit in threads like primo ghost will easily tear it.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cstkl1*
> 
> not sure on ure id/od but the last time i used neoprene was the mod for my coolits and .. hmm they are very easy to tear. so the fit in threads like primo ghost will easily tear it.


I had heard of some having difficulties with slippage with the smaller diameter Tygon Norprene, this is 1/2x3/4 the largest I could find, I'm extremely impressed with its compression and seal and durability, no tearing at all, I'm only disappointing in its lack of flexibility, it seems ideal for straight runs, but any 3dimensional or multiple turns forget it, you'll have to use rotarys.

Its this, the A-60-G Type

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10487/ex-tub-647/Tygon_A-60-G_Norprene_12_ID_34_OD_-_Industrial_Grade_Thermoplastic_Elastomer_Tubing.html

..


----------



## bigc9164

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> My order is
> 
> pump > rad > CPU block > back to pump, is that right? Happy with the results but the Tygon Norprene flexes very little had to use 3 angled rotarys out of only 6 fittings total.
> 
> Have to give the tubing credit for its compressive properties though, with the Monsoon fittings the seal is so tight I could suspend my filled radiator the entire loop outside of my chassis holding on to only the pump and top in midair, no leaks no signs of slippage, zero, this stuff is very strong.
> 
> (I built, filled and bled the loop outside of the rig using an external PSU)
> 
> It lifts out easily for maintenance.
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8716_zpsfe97b914.jpg.html


No reservoir? I have the ASUS 760 as well... i love it. but i am thinking about using an EK universal GPU block to water cool it as well.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> What Inedenimadam said
> 
> What I found was if you want them to line up, you have to accept that they won't be screwed entirely tightly. Leak test the rad on its own beforehand.


This ^^^

In my case I had to remove the to o-ring for it to line up to where I needed it. I'm using the tip as an inlet so I added Teflon tape to the threads to help keep it leak free and tightened as tight as possible while also using an internal tube to drive the pump return and prevent splashing.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> In my case I had to remove the to o-ring for it to line up to where I needed it. I'm using the tip as an inlet so I added Teflon tape to the threads to help keep it leak free and tightened as tight as possible while also using an internal tube to drive the pump return and prevent splashing.


I meant actually that it doesn't need to be entirely tight as possible, as long as the o-ring is compressed enough to seal the liquid. As you can see, mine is mounted horizontally, so it could leak from both ends. Removing an o-ring would not be an option.


----------



## defiler2k

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I meant actually that it doesn't need to be entirely tight as possible, as long as the o-ring is compressed enough to seal the liquid. As you can see, mine is mounted horizontally, so it could leak from both ends. Removing an o-ring would not be an option.






Yeah in your case no O-ring would definitely not work. I'm using the EX D5 Pump combo with the multi top and I have my top as input on the top of the reservoir but I have not had issues using that way.


----------



## brandotip

Just got my d5 vario xres 100 pump/res combo with 120mm uni holder, and as I am assembling it all I realize the g1/4" extender that is necessary to use on the inlet port does not have an o-ring. Can anyone confirm if there needs to be one? It did not come in the packaging if so..


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Just got my d5 vario xres 100 pump/res combo with 120mm uni holder, and as I am assembling it all I realize the g1/4" extender that is necessary to use on the inlet port does not have an o-ring. Can anyone confirm if there needs to be one? It did not come in the packaging if so..


The extender usually has the o-ring attached, if you didn't get one with your res contact the seller. As you will need it if you are going to use any of the recessed ports.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> The extender usually has the o-ring attached, if you didn't get one with your res contact the seller. As you will need it if you are going to use any of the recessed ports.


Is it a standard size owing I could get locally? Would hate to postpone installing for shipping On a single o ring lol

-edit- I just tried a spare o ring from the an xspc kit accessories pitch and the fit and nice and snug. The only issue would be if the o ring's is too thin right? As long as it is snug and screws in fine there shouldn't be an issue right?


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Is it a standard size owing I could get locally? Would hate to postpone installing for shipping On a single o ring lol
> 
> -edit- I just tried a spare o ring from the an xspc kit accessories pitch and the fit and nice and snug. The only issue would be if the o ring's is too thin right? As long as it is snug and screws in fine there shouldn't be an issue right?


You should be fine, just be sure that the extender is tightened all the way as ive had issues with that due to the location.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> You should be fine, just be sure that the extender is tightened all the way as ive had issues with that due to the location.


Thank you!


----------



## Blackspots

Oh, good question. Should I go with the D5 Vario or PWM (when using the Aquaero 6 Pro/XT)?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Oh, good question. Should I go with the D5 Vario or PWM (when using the Aquaero 6 Pro/XT)?


Ideally you would use either their own USB version of the vario or the pwm model.
Both will give good control but the USB does not take up a pwm header


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Ideally you would use either their own USB version of the vario or the pwm model.
> Both will give good control but the USB does not take up a pwm header


Ok, I guess that does make sense. I had thought about the EK dual bay res with the D5 vario, but I could always get just the EK dual bay res and install the Aquacomputer D5 PWM/USB version.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Ok, I guess that does make sense. I had thought about the EK dual bay res with the D5 vario, but I could always get just the EK dual bay res and install the Aquacomputer D5 PWM/USB version.


Just remember that everything is relative. Active flow modulation makes almost no difference to performance and noise. A basic vario model set to a nice quiet but effective speed works just as well. Control is simply a nice luxury.
The USB pump works great with the aquaero but a pwm will work with other devices or just the motherboard if you change hardware or controllers later.
What is best for you is up to you. There is no real best one.


----------



## sneaky0

Anyone know if the EK Thermosphere will fit with the EVGA heat plate?

TIA


----------



## brandotip

What is the 3 pin tacho (blue wire) on the D5 vario (not pwm) for? Does it have to be plugged in? If so where? Installation instructions do not say... Also will the micro bubbles ever leave the anticyclone foam in the res?


----------



## OwaN

Sorry if this has already been asked and answered, but I haven't found it... Are there any plans in the works to release the FC-Terminal multi GPU connectors in acrylic? I see there is a plexi replacement for the standard terminal ports/manifold, but nothing like the acrylic CSQ blocks.


----------



## VSG

They are confirmed to be in the works


----------



## derickwm

^this


----------



## OwaN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> ^this


Sweet! Thanks for the reply

ok, now I've got to be "that guy".... any ballpark timetable, can it be measured in days weeks or months? Is this something to delay an impending build for?


----------



## derickwm

Weeks at the very least.

It took over a year to get the QC just right on the single bridge. It'll probably be a while before the rest of the bridges come out unfortunately.


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Anyone with a delayed order from our webshop, I found out this morning that *one of the two* guys who package all of those orders has been on vacation for the past two weeks! Orders are a few days behind but they're being worked on and should be all caught up soon! Apologies for the delay.


Oooh good thing I found this topic and post I was thinking about sending an email about my order on the 17th(still processing), but then again maybe they don't have it in stock (as far as I know it said everything is in stock at the time I ordered it).

Well when I get this shipment I will be doing my first Custom loop and joining the club









They could have told me thought hehe, I live 80km away could have gone work there sending shipments as a summer job


----------



## cephelix

hey fellas, so, a final confirmation before i make my purchase.
i've already asked before but i guess my question wasn't specific enough.
i have an MSI R9 290 Gaming and looking to purchase the EK thermosphere. Along with that, you guys have told me that I would require the appropriate mounting kit. Do i need to purchase anything else? shims etc?
Also, could anyone tell me the clearance between the block and VRAM?
Heatsink < something like this would fit without having to make any modifications (height wise) to the heatsink itself right?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> hey fellas, so, a final confirmation before i make my purchase.
> i've already asked before but i guess my question wasn't specific enough.
> i have an MSI R9 290 Gaming and looking to purchase the EK thermosphere. Along with that, you guys have told me that I would require the appropriate mounting kit. Do i need to purchase anything else? shims etc?
> Also, could anyone tell me the clearance between the block and VRAM?
> Heatsink < something like this would fit without having to make any modifications (height wise) to the heatsink itself right?


No extra shims should be required. And those heatsinks should not interfere with the block, as they did not when I tested them both on my 270X.

I don't have any exact numbers for the clearance however.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> No extra shims should be required. And those heatsinks should not interfere with the block, as they did not when I tested them both on my 270X.
> 
> I don't have any exact numbers for the clearance however.


I'll take you word for it on the clearance. No exact numbers are really necessary i suppose as i'll be getting the low profile heatsinks.

thanks for that. now i can make my purchases with peace of mind..


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> I'll take you word for it on the clearance. No exact numbers are really necessary i suppose as i'll be getting the low profile heatsinks.
> 
> thanks for that. now i can make my purchases with peace of mind..


No problem. i used the same heatsinks (Chinese no name brand) with my Thermosphere on my 270X, and I had no issues with them. I ended up taking them off too, cause I saw that the increase in temps with them off was barely noticeable to me.


----------



## cephelix

yeah, that's what they say. only the VRMs need heatsinks. for the memory itself, so long as you have sufficient air flow in you case, they shouldn't be an issue


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> yeah, that's what they say. only the VRMs need heatsinks. for the memory itself, so long as you have sufficient air flow in you case, they shouldn't be an issue


Yea even playing Watch Dogs doesn't put the VRM's over 55C. That was fine for me to leave them bare.


----------



## pathfindercod

I am working on my RIVBE monoblock and monarch ram blocks. I was attempting to use bitspower extenders and 90 fittings. It just will not line up like the supremacy block and monarch blocks. The 30mm extension with 90 on top is 2-3mm lower than the 90 on the ram block. I think that is to much variance and might cause a leak with the acrylic tubing? Only option I am seeing is try to do some crazy bends OR just go from a straight fitting in the monoblock with a 90 bend over the a 90 fitting on the monarch..

What do you guys think?


----------



## Speng

Been mailing EKWB with this question two times without receiving a reply.

Anyone know if the 780Ti DCII asus custom PCB design EK-FC780GTXTiDCII waterblock actually runs it's water channel all the way across the VRM area much like the 780Ti nvidia reference design EK-FC780GTXTi waterblock does?

Any input greatly appreciated. Cheers.

780Ti DCII asus custom PCB design EK-FC780GTXTiDCII waterblock:



780Ti nvidia reference design EK-FC780GTXTi waterblock:


----------



## derickwm

Yes it does, hence the plate on top of the block.


----------



## Speng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes it does, hence the plate on top of the block.


Ok, thanks for the quick response!

Also, why are there two variants of the 780DCII blocks with shorter/longer tops?


----------



## VSG

Clean CSQ design above which uses the terminal unit you see, and Original CSQ below which needs a bridge unit that isn't seen in there. The length is their decision.


----------



## Speng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Clean CSQ design above which uses the terminal unit you see, and Original CSQ below which needs a bridge unit that isn't seen in there. The length is their decision.


Oh.

Lengthwise, you'd think it'd give the card and block more rigidity with the longer variant seeing as it has got two additional mounting screw holes.


----------



## derickwm

In the end, not really.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speng*
> 
> Oh.
> 
> Lengthwise, you'd think it'd give the card and block more rigidity with the longer variant seeing as it has got two additional mounting screw holes.


Rigidity really isn't an issue, it is mostly a cost and aesthetics decision I believe.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> it is mostly a cost and aesthetics decision I believe.


Yup.

I would love to have seen the acrylic piece in the clean acrylic/nickel 290x blocks full length like the acetal ones.

EK if you decide to make em send me the acrylic part so I can swap my 2 out.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

First time using an EK Supremacy CPU block. Does it matter which way the block is mounted onto the CPU other than matching up with where your tubing will be coming from? What I mean is is there any particular orientation that gives the greatest cooling performance?

Btw I'm using the Naked Ivy Mount so I'm mounting directly on the die.


----------



## DeXel

Having ports lined vertically was tested to have the best performance (with EK logo on top right).


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Having ports lined vertically was tested to have the best performance (with EK logo on top right).


Does that apply for a horizontally mounted MB (Case Labs S3 case)?


----------



## DeXel

It's not because of gravity or anything like that. Intel CPU die is vertical (from PCI-E slots up to top of the motherboard), so it makes sense why block generally perform better by letting water go along the die.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuffinMyLye*
> 
> First time using an EK Supremacy CPU block. Does it matter which way the block is mounted onto the CPU other than matching up with where your tubing will be coming from? What I mean is is there any particular orientation that gives the greatest cooling performance?
> 
> Btw I'm using the Naked Ivy Mount so I'm mounting directly on the die.


Going naked changes the equation a little. For me I tried it vertically in a naked mount situation with 0 gains. It was just a pain to get all the air out of the block. My big temp drops were by going direct die and using CLU.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Having ports lined vertically was tested to have the best performance (with EK logo on top right).


It also helps to prevent air pockets getting stuck in the top areas of the block.

If it was orientated with the outlet say facing down or to one side, then you can risk having an air pocket trapped at the top.

With the outlet up top, it simply makes it easier for air to escape out of the block.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Going naked changes the equation a little. For me I tried it vertically in a naked mount situation with 0 gains. It was just a pain to get all the air out of the block. My big temp drops were by going direct die and using CLU.


Yea I went direct die with CLP.

When you say vertically are you referring to it being mounted on a vertically oriented motherboard or just the vertical orientation of the block inlet and outlet?


----------



## techjesse

Love my EK GPU water blocks


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuffinMyLye*
> 
> Yea I went direct die with CLP.
> 
> When you say vertically are you referring to it being mounted on a vertically oriented motherboard or just the vertical orientation of the block inlet and outlet?


I meant vertical orientation inlet and outlet. I had no gains from doing that. Granted I seem to have a very good chip as my temps are as close to ambient on idle as they could be from my delid and CLU application.


----------



## MeanBruce

Will EK ever offer their matte black tubing in 1/2x3/4?

Is this EK 140ml reservoir too large, not large enough for my simple loop? Any advantage in going with the little 100ml? My gf thinks its cute.









Thanks Derrick

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_770&products_id=36034

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_770&products_id=36033


----------



## defiler2k

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Will EK ever offer their matte black tubing in 1/2x3/4?
> 
> Is this EK 140ml reservoir too large, not large enough for my simple loop? Any advantage in going with the little 100ml? My gf thinks its cute.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Derrick
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_770&products_id=36034
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_770&products_id=36033






The only negative to the smaller res is that filling will take a couple of start-ups/shutdowns but otherwise there is no negative to a smaller res.


----------



## MeanBruce

My short loops internal volume is roughly 450 to 500mls, so it fills rather quickly, used the EK 1:9 ratio concentrate still have half a liter left over.

Guess I'll base the decision on which size reservoir features best in the front window view of a new CaseLabs S8. 40mls plus or minus wont make much difference.

Picked up some PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Clear from Performance PCs yesterday for the new water loop, moving to a new chassis after only 10days of watercooling, the build area is just too tight and the Tygon Norprene is extremely unforgiving, almost impossible to work with, still it was a positive challenging first attempt, I learned a great deal, and that's what its all about.

Three weeks into the future, will have a much improved water build kinda sick of all the darkness in this current chassis, need an LED flashlight in the middle of the day just to find my way around internally, so moving to a white interior with window panels on four sides out of 6.

Thank you CaseLabs.









the before photo:

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8648_zps3a9d0f2f.jpg.html


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Will EK ever offer their matte black tubing in 1/2x3/4?
> 
> Is this EK 140ml reservoir too large, not large enough for my simple loop? Any advantage in going with the little 100ml? My gf thinks its cute.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Derrick
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_770&products_id=36034
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_770&products_id=36033
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only negative to the smaller res is that filling will take a couple of start-ups/shutdowns but otherwise there is no negative to a smaller res.
Click to expand...

Seconds on this.


----------



## derickwm

In a Case Labs case I think you'd be fine with the 140?

Unfortunately I don't believe we have plans at this moment to bring EK-ZMT to 1/2 3/4 size.


----------



## Malik

Luxury by EKWB


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Luxury by EKWB
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome Malik!


----------



## ppkstat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> the before photo:
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8648_zps3a9d0f2f.jpg.html


Hello. I am interested at your pump mounting. Is this EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ mounted on a EK-UNI Holder D5? I just opened a ticket with EK asking if these two are compatible and they said that they re not. EK-UNI Holder D5 is supposed to be compatible only with EK-D5 Vario X-RES they said.

I find that weird because the x-res and the x-top have the exact same hole layout on the back. I tried to screw the rubber thingies at the back of my top and were a bit hard to screw (not terribly though).


----------



## Kranik

Hey all,

I'm thinking of picking up an EK Coolstream PE radiator and pairing it up with some low speed fans, I've not seen much in the way of tests with the PE in my searches but other split-fin radiators seem capable without needing to jump into the stratosphere with fan speed/noise. It will be the third radiator in the system so if I'm missing out on a degree or two I'm not too worried about it but if I'm making a mistake I'd like to be warned now and this seems like the place to ask!

If the PE is what I go with the silver extensions that it comes with don't really fit my build, are these the extensions I would use to replace them: http://bit.ly/1ulv52H ?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> Hello. I am interested at your pump mounting. Is this EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ mounted on a EK-UNI Holder D5? I just opened a ticket with EK asking if these two are compatible and they said that they re not. EK-UNI Holder D5 is supposed to be compatible only with EK-D5 Vario X-RES they said.
> 
> I find that weird because the x-res and the x-top have the exact same hole layout on the back. I tried to screw the rubber thingies at the back of my top and were a bit hard to screw (not terribly though).


Original EK D5 X-Top's didn't have the screw mounts in the corners.


Most I have seen now do though


... or if yours doesn't you can buy a pump cover that also comes with a new back plate that is threaded for mounting.

I'm not sure why they would say they aren't compatible ... Their own pics show them together
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/ek-uni-pump-holder-120mm-fan.html


----------



## ppkstat

No, mine does have holes in the corners, the exact same holes that x-res has. Whats really strange though is that EK says they re not compatible. Any ideas?

Thanks a lot for your time I really appreciate it.


----------



## ppkstat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I'm not sure why they would say they aren't compatible ... Their own pics show them together
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/ek-uni-pump-holder-120mm-fan.html


Yes, it is strange indeed. I sent them the picture and I am waiting for a reply.
Any input on how well this works for vibration/noise? I am running my d5 vario on 4.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I'm thinking of picking up an EK Coolstream PE radiator and pairing it up with some low speed fans, I've not seen much in the way of tests with the PE in my searches but other split-fin radiators seem capable without needing to jump into the stratosphere with fan speed/noise. It will be the third radiator in the system so if I'm missing out on a degree or two I'm not too worried about it but if I'm making a mistake I'd like to be warned now and this seems like the place to ask!
> 
> If the PE is what I go with the silver extensions that it comes with don't really fit my build, are these the extensions I would use to replace them: http://bit.ly/1ulv52H ?


I have 2 PE rads in my S5 build and they are paired with some Swiftech Helix that I run daily at about 700 rpm and my temps are great....when I demand more from my system I crank the rpm and the PE still perform well!









About the silver extenders, lately some PE rads now comes with the new black extenders like the one you linked. If you want to be sure you can just buy a pair of those black ones in case you end up with a rad with the silver ones


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> Yes, it is strange indeed. I sent them the picture and I am waiting for a reply.
> Any input on how well this works for vibration/noise? I am running my d5 vario on 4.


It works quite well on my D5 X-res. I wouldn't say it was effective as a completely isolated pump (free hanging or on sponge) but its certainly good enough. Mine is very quiet at full speed.


----------



## ppkstat

Yeah, just got EK's reply on the matter.
Quote:


> Dear customer,
> 
> We are sorry, for the misleading information's after checking with our research department we can confirm that EK-UNI Holder D5 V2 and EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ are compatible.
> We will update this information under EK-UNI Holder D5 V2 compatibility.
> 
> Once again, I hope you will accept my apologies for the inconvenience caused.


Any of you that have the above combination it would be great if you could comment on how well it works


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> Yeah, just got EK's reply on the matter.
> Any of you that have the above combination it would be great if you could comment on how well it works


I just replaced an XSPC 750 rev4 with an EK vario d5 xres 100 pump/res combo and mounted it using an EK 120mm fan mount... It is incredibly quiet at all levels. 5 is a super low hum while 3 is not really audible.... Granted if you have your fans on you won't hear the pump at all.


----------



## Romanion

Hey guys, I was just wondering if the EK-RES X3 holders can be mounted on the EK-UNI Pump Holder? EK support told me it isn't able to be mounted but I don't see why it can't be.


----------



## derickwm

Just want you guys to know that your direct feedback is what allowed me to push for the release of our new extenders and plugs in multi colors  very exciting stuff!


----------



## VSG

Speaking of plugs, I saw what you posted on Twitter/Facebook:



I need to see how the badgeless variants would be but I need them in the motherboard areas


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just want you guys to know that your direct feedback is what allowed me to push for the release of our new extenders and plugs in multi colors  very exciting stuff!


When is our direct feedback going to finally push the clear acrylic FC terminal replacement for release





















?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Speaking of plugs, I saw what you posted on Twitter/Facebook:
> 
> 
> 
> I need to see how the badgeless variants would be but I need them in the motherboard areas


Yes hopefully they'll be released soon.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just want you guys to know that your direct feedback is what allowed me to push for the release of our new extenders and plugs in multi colors  very exciting stuff!
> 
> 
> 
> When is our direct feedback going to finally push the clear acrylic FC terminal replacement for release
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
Click to expand...

The singles are already available  the 2-3-4 terminals have been worked on for quite a while but QC is tough on such a large hunk of plexi and is still being perfected.


----------



## ppkstat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> I just replaced an XSPC 750 rev4 with an EK vario d5 xres 100 pump/res combo and mounted it using an EK 120mm fan mount... It is incredibly quiet at all levels. 5 is a super low hum while 3 is not really audible.... Granted if you have your fans on you won't hear the pump at all.


Thanks a lot for your reply. Right now I have the pump mounted on a Phobya noise destructor (sponge/soggy sandwich equivalent). I was looking for a more secure way to mount the pump. It is my understanding that it's going to be louder with the EK uni-holder, however it will be more secure (the system might be moved in the near future). Most of the time, my rad fans are spinning at 600rpm and my case in general is very quiet (I have a thing for silence).


----------



## Malik

Thank You


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I have 2 PE rads in my S5 build and they are paired with some Swiftech Helix that I run daily at about 700 rpm and my temps are great....when I demand more from my system I crank the rpm and the PE still perform well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the silver extenders, lately some PE rads now comes with the new black extenders like the one you linked. If you want to be sure you can just buy a pair of those black ones in case you end up with a rad with the silver ones


Awesome, that's what I wanted to hear! Now I just have to decide if I want to go 1400 rpm Noiseblockers and slow them down with my Aquaero or just grab the 900 rpm models.

+Rep!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Awesome, that's what I wanted to hear! Now I just have to decide if I want to go 1400 rpm Noiseblockers and slow them down with my Aquaero or just grab the 900 rpm models.
> 
> +Rep!


I would grab the 1400rpm and slow them with the AQ (that's what I did







) so if you want to have the full 1400rpm you'll always have the possibility


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> Thanks a lot for your reply. Right now I have the pump mounted on a Phobya noise destructor (sponge/soggy sandwich equivalent). I was looking for a more secure way to mount the pump. It is my understanding that it's going to be louder with the EK uni-holder, however it will be more secure (the system might be moved in the near future). Most of the time, my rad fans are spinning at 600rpm and my case in general is very quiet (I have a thing for silence).


I'd honestly imagine your air conditiong be louder than the mounted pump


----------



## pathfindercod

Hey fellas
I got the gpu blocks put on my kingpin cards tonight. The instructions doesn't say what these are for and I can't really see what they are for.



Thanks!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Hey fellas
> I got the gpu blocks put on my kingpin cards tonight. The instructions doesn't say what these are for and I can't really see what they are for.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Those are spacers used in case the fittings you are attaching to the gpu block terminal have threads that are too long (longer than 5mm I believe)


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I would grab the 1400rpm and slow them with the AQ (that's what I did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) so if you want to have the full 1400rpm you'll always have the possibility


The only thing I'm concerned about would be that I couldn't pair up the 1400 rpm models with the 900 rpm models I have in the front of the case. Slowing the 1400's would slow the 900's to useless speeds. I'm out of fan channels on the aquaero LT though, separating them would mean I might need to take my pump off the Aquaero. Kinda wish the 6 existed at the time I bought the LT. Hahaha.

On topic: looks like I'm grabbing a Coolstream 480 PE! More EK in the SMH10!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> The only thing I'm concerned about would be that I couldn't pair up the 1400 rpm models with the 900 rpm models I have in the front of the case. Slowing the 1400's would slow the 900's to useless speeds. I'm out of fan channels on the aquaero LT though, separating them would mean I might need to take my pump off the Aquaero. Kinda wish the 6 existed at the time I bought the LT. Hahaha.
> 
> On topic: looks like I'm grabbing a Coolstream 480 PE! More EK in the SMH10!


I didn't know that







Go with the 900 then









At 900rpm they are already barely audible


----------



## Ragsters

Are there any pictures of the MSI Z97I Gaming EK monoblock floating around? I would love to see this!


----------



## lowfat

Hmm....


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Hmm....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Brushed? Looks yummy!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Brushed? Looks yummy!


Yes. I haven't decided on which to use in the build yet.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Brushed? Looks yummy!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. I haven't decided on which to use in the build yet.
Click to expand...

how does the brushed look from further away? It looks awesome up close and personal, but some of that awesome sauce might get lost when looking at it inside a rig.


----------



## niklot1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Hmm....


Fantastic shades of light ...


----------



## Vlada011

I prepare money to order everything for water-cooling except few little things.
I'm little scared I can say. I decide everything what I like only somehow I can't decide EK Bay RES or D5 X-TOP and tube res.
Second options is nicer but first option is little better for beginners and with less space in case.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> I prepare money to order everything for water-cooling except few little things.
> I'm little scared I can say. I decide everything what I like only somehow I can't decide EK Bay RES or D5 X-TOP and tube res.
> Second options is nicer but first option is little better for beginners and with less space in case.


D5 top and tube res 100 times over... I switched from dual bay res to d5 x res 100 pump/res combo and I couldn't be happier.


----------



## Vlada011

I thought same. I will be satisfied with 100V2 reservoir size and 10/13mm tubes/fittings.


----------



## VSG

Clear terminals (single unit anyway) are in the US now.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Clear terminals (single unit anyway) are in the US now.


Link?


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Link?


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25093/ex-blc-1791/EK_FC_Terminal_Replacement_Connecting_Link_-_Clear_Plexi_EK-FC_Terminal_-_Plexi.html?tl=g57c645


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Clear terminals (single unit anyway) are in the US now.


Will these work on the 780ti classified blocks? These are replacements for the black block and can be linked with multiple gpus via links or the fc bridge for sli?

NM I think I see these are just for single GPU's. I guess they are working on clear terminals that can pass through to multiple gpu's?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Will these work on the 780ti classified blocks? These are replacements for the black block and can be linked with multiple gpus via links or the fc bridge for sli?
> 
> NM I think I see these are just for single GPU's. I guess they are working on clear terminals that can pass through to multiple gpu's?


Yes, but don't expect them soon!


----------



## pathfindercod

LOL thanks. I waited on the "very soon to be released" fan controller till I couldn't wait any longer. I had to use another solution. Ill have to use the EK one in my next build whenever that will be.


----------



## VSG

If you prefer PPC instead: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=41311

Hellfire Toyz will also be getting these I know.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you prefer PPC instead: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=41311
> 
> Hellfire Toyz will also be getting these I know.


I only left the FCPU links because it's like "down the road" from me









Didn't see he was in FL, lol.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niklot1981*
> 
> Fantastic shades of light ...


Thanks. The wonders of what a white flat sheet over a window can do.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> how does the brushed look from further away? It looks awesome up close and personal, but some of that awesome sauce might get lost when looking at it inside a rig.


It definitely loses the brushed look. You can only see that if you are right upon the block. That is a good point though.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you prefer PPC instead: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=41311
> 
> Hellfire Toyz will also be getting these I know.


Nice - these I need!


----------



## VSG

I am holding off to see if the multi GPU terminals come out by the time I will be done with my loop. If not, 2 of those are in my cart anyway.


----------



## afokke

what is a pump "top"?

how are tube reservoirs mounted? do cases have mounts for them? should the pump be on the top or bottom?

are there components that connect two video cards together so that you don't have to awkwardly fit a tiny piece of tubing between them?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> what is a pump "top"?
> 
> how are tube reservoirs mounted? do cases have mounts for them? should the pump be on the top or bottom?
> 
> are there components that connect two video cards together so that you don't have to awkwardly fit a tiny piece of tubing between them?


Pump top is an outer casing for a pump to allow the connectivity between the pump and the tubes..

Yes, you can get water cooling fitments which connect two video cards together.

Some cases support some reservoir's and some don't. However, many cases which don't support them can still hold them using brackets and screws provided with the reservoir.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> what is a pump "top"?
> 
> how are tube reservoirs mounted? do cases have mounts for them? should the pump be on the top or bottom?
> 
> are there components that connect two video cards together so that you don't have to awkwardly fit a tiny piece of tubing between them?


Everything BradleyW said

Also about your top or bottom question about the pump, if you talk about the pump placement inside the case then it can go anywhere you want....the only important thing is that the reservoir MUST feed the pump so basically the reservoir must be on top of the pump.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Hey this steel plate section is removable, right? I figure yes due to the smaller screws compared to those on the acetal plus the plexi version of the block just has a plexi piece there instead it seems.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Hey this steel plate section is removable, right? I figure yes due to the smaller screws compared to those on the acetal plus the plexi version of the block just has a plexi piece there instead it seems.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes it's removable


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Thanks. My brand new block has a fugly dark stain on half of this plate's thin side edge…and of course it is not on the inside edge facing the mobo.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Thanks. My brand new block has a fugly dark stain on half of this plate's thin side edge&#8230;and of course it is not on the inside edge facing the mobo.


Bummer...if you're looking for a product, Autosol could do the job







you can find it in your hardware store


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Good to know thanks +rep. Though seems more like a chemical reaction stain or something like that that is _in_-as opposed to on-the metal but I might try and see if I can remove or polish it. Or just paint the whole plate later, perhaps. Maybe blue to match their blue backplate. I was hoping EK would just send me a new plate but I am thinking that is not going to happen&#8230;though I only first contacted them and sent pics a couple days ago through FCPU. It doesn't look quite as bad in photos either.


----------



## Romanion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes it's removable


Is the underneath of the metal plate the Acetal? So black acetal throughout?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Romanion*
> 
> Is the underneath of the metal plate the Acetal? So black acetal throughout?


Good question, I would assume yes but @derickwm should be able to confirm it


----------



## Tokuzi

Hello,

I just purchased (2) of these cards: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131568

Would this be the only thing I need to connect them? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16964/ex-blc-1213/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Parallel_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Plexi_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Parallel_CSQ_Plexi.html?tl=g57c593s1896#blank

Thanks in advance!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well I am under the impression that under the plate is the inside of the card where the water channels are. Basing this assumption on the "see through" plexi version of the same card. So this means I would not be able to use the block while the plate is not installed.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Hello all!! I follow this thread everyday trying to get some Ek Pron!! I ordered my first Ek product today from frozencpu.com!! I am really stoked. Have been mapping out my attack plan with an XSPC 360 V3 radiatior, primochill tubing, ek waterblock, xspc compression fittings, and the D5 Vario pump, res!!

THis is what I ordered

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/image/16250/ex-blc-1130.jpg/ex-blc-1130/EK_Supremacy_Universal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Plexi_EK-Supremacy.html?tl=c603s1912


----------



## Knight26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tokuzi*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I just purchased (2) of these cards: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131568
> 
> Would this be the only thing I need to connect them? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16964/ex-blc-1213/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Parallel_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Plexi_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Parallel_CSQ_Plexi.html?tl=g57c593s1896#blank
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I believe you will need the EK_FC_Terminal instead of the bridge. The bridge goes with the previous generation water blocks. Here's the EK page:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-dual-parallel-3-slot.html


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tokuzi*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I just purchased (2) of these cards: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131568
> 
> Would this be the only thing I need to connect them? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16964/ex-blc-1213/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Parallel_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Plexi_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Parallel_CSQ_Plexi.html?tl=g57c593s1896#blank
> 
> Thanks in advance!


This is for the Original CSQ Design Waterblocks not the Clean CSQ like you just bought.

Depending on your motherboard PCIe layout you will need one of those 2 models

EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel

OR

EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel 3-Slot

I hope it helps


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Thanks. My brand new block has a fugly dark stain on half of this plate's thin side edge&#8230;and of course it is not on the inside edge facing the mobo.


Interesting.. Sounds similar to the dark stain on the thin edge of the copper on my 780 block, the edge facing the case window.. I tried using 99% ISO to "remove the stain" but it made no difference.


----------



## Pheozero

Soooooooooo... about that Maximus 7 G/H/R MOSFET block


----------



## VSG

Don't the M6G/H blocks fit? Underneath that heatsink, it looks like the same components. Heck, the M7F even uses the absolute same heatsink design except with a copper/anodized aluminum MOSFET heatsink instead of just anodized aluminum.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Don't the M6G/H blocks fit? Underneath that heatsink, it looks like the same components. Heck, the M7F even uses the absolute same heatsink design except with a copper/anodized aluminum MOSFET heatsink instead of just anodized aluminum.


Supposedly the SB block fits it just fine. Cooling Config doesn't say anything about the MOSFET and I haven't seen anyone try to use it with the M6G yet.


----------



## Maticb

Hey guys, I've been looking around trying to find a VRM block (at the least) for my mobo, GIGABYTE GA990FXA-UD3, and I did find the EK-FB-AMD-KIT but I can't seem to find ANYONE selling them used









Is there any other block or anything that fits on it?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Interesting.. Sounds similar to the dark stain on the thin edge of the copper on my 780 block, the edge facing the case window.. I tried using 99% ISO to "remove the stain" but it made no difference.


Hmm...yeah if mine was on the copper that may be even worse. Sorry to hear that.


----------



## brandotip

yeaa, doesnt really show with the uv lights on so it could be worse.


----------



## MeanBruce

Why do I need a reservoir that holds a 500mls of fluid?

I can store that EK fluid on my tech shelf in a sealed container, nooooby nooooby noooo, and they were dancing, nooooby noooby nooo and then romancing,









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/ek_ek_res_x3_reservoirs_zpsb8744f38.jpg.html


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Why do I need a reservoir that holds a 500mls of fluid?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/ek_ek_res_x3_reservoirs_zpsb8744f38.jpg.html


Makes filling multiple large radiators easier, and helps the pump to push the fluid around a restrictive loop when there's a ton of mass and vertical pressure stacked above it.

Edit - also fills up large cases - I'll have 4x400mm reservoirs in the TX10

2 on each side:










1 for each loop - 2 loops per rig, plenty of space for such sillyness.


----------



## MeanBruce

head is spinning because I love stren.









only one 360mm radiator is all needed for the most outstanding word processing robot on the planet.









ordered the little 100ml EK reservoir from PPCS. hoping I made the correct decision


----------



## MeanBruce

ordered a new S8 today after watching strens video one thousand times.

Jim, hire stren.

for all the CaseLabs product videos please.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> head is spinning because I love stren.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> only one 360mm radiator is all needed for the most outstanding word processing robot on the planet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ordered the little 100ml EK reservoir from PPCS. hoping I made the correct decision


Aww yeah you'll be fun with that then. Even small ones are fine for a bigger loop it's just makes life easier for a bigger loop when the res is bigger.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> ordered a new S8 today after watching strens video one thousand times.
> 
> Jim, hire stren.
> 
> for all the CaseLabs product videos please.


Haha thanks for the kind words - reviewing may not pay well or at all sometimes (for me at least) but it feels good when people like what you put out there







I do really love the S8 - when I get frustrated with the TX10 I wish I had got two S8's instead lol


----------



## MeanBruce

Woohoo, just came back from Performance PCs, darn it took 25 entire minutes, there was so much traffic, people stocking up on supplies for the tropical storm I guess.









Went ahead and got the little one (100ml), I like the little one, can't see any real disadvantage using only one radiator, my gf says "It's adorable".









My very first reservoir, YAY (dancing the happy dance)









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8956_zps82ad21bb.jpg.html


----------



## failwheeldrive

Wish I were still down in viera. I miss being able to go by PPCs whenever I want


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Wish I were still down in viera. I miss being able to go by PPCs whenever I want


Viera is a nice area, looks like we have a tropical storm or cat 1 hurricane arriving Monday Big Bertha, that should be fun.

Yup, it's awesome having PPCS just a short drive away, they are so nice those guys and gals, sort of makes up for not having any Micro Centers anywhere in the state, well kinda.


----------



## MeanBruce

So I'm guessing I cut this filter disc down the middle with scissors and place each half on either side of the EK emblem placard thingy.









Whooooakay.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8961_zps36ab2fae.jpg.html


----------



## Jakusonfire

There is no need to use it at all unless you have a very low restriction loop and can't easily just turn the pump down.


----------



## llamaegg

Man, how is EK-FC780 GTX Ti so hard to get a hold of. Dazmode can't custom order any because chances are EK has no stock and PPC's doesn't carry it, seems like Frozen is the only place the snag the thing!


----------



## MeanBruce

Everyone using this EK D5 Uni mount V2, seems very popular. I achieved much better results by replacing the stock hard rubber decoupling feet with these 0.5inch 3M Sorbothane hemispheres, you can get them just about anywhere, Amazon stocks them. Using just one on each corner of the EK pump top, gives you dead silence.









Pump completely isolated (decoupled).



http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7242_zps521d4e05.jpg.html


----------



## MeanBruce

Why is the the EK emblem on the X RES-TOP blue and have longitudinal stripes on it? My EK X-TOP is solid silver, is there something wrong here? Is this an old version? Am I being overly neurotic?









edit: oh it's just a protective film, I shoulda stayed in bed. Giddy like a school boy can't stop laughing. HeHaHuHo









"He was never giddy, even when he was a schoolboy"... Indiana Jones

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8963_zps11659510.jpg.html


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Why does the EK emblem on the X RES-TOP have longitudinal stripes on it? My EK X-TOP is solid silver, is there something wrong here? Is this an old version? Am I being overly neurotic?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8963_zps11659510.jpg.html


its a new protection plastic just peel it off


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Oh yeah! My steel stain just peeled off too!

lol i wish


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Mhm...







one of my favorite CPU blocks.










-Jeffinslaw


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Mhm...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one of my favorite CPU blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


Sahweet brother,

Considering eliminating the red accents in my rig adding white cables white Monsoon fittings and the EK Plexi Supremacy white LEDs Dominator Platinum for an extremely professional look.

Already got the Primoflex LRT clear tubing using clear EK fluid, oh yea a research rig for the future.









Love it, that's what I'm going to do.


----------



## MeanBruce

Oh the EK Supremacy Plexi Clean is so beautiful. Ordering right now.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Mhm...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one of my favorite CPU blocks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


EK Supreme HF Plexi, best block ever made!

I have one too, which I'll never get rid of







:


----------



## MeanBruce

Good Morning little EK reservoir









Good Morning new 2.5inch Sorbothane Hemispheres for the new CaseLabs S8 arriving soon









Good Morning stren









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8968_zps16234061.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8970_zps2dfe5bb7.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8971_zps276a2a01.jpg.html


----------



## MeanBruce

The EK D5 Uni V2 mount cut out is exactly 2.5inches or 63.5mm in diameter so the D5 pump can slip down inside and be easily decoupled with some energy absorbing supports, it's a wonderfully simple design.

Asking Performance PCs for a 67.5mm diameter laser cutout chassis mod into a CaseLabs Mercury S8 midchassis section to compensate for the CaseLabs 4mm U-Channel natural rubber liner. The horizontal circular chassis cutout will act as an EK D5 Uni mount.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8977_zpse35dc210.jpg.html


----------



## kcuestag

Yeah, that D5 holder/mount (Same as the one included in my X-RES from EK) is amazing, great vibration reduction and very effective.


----------



## lowfat

Did someone say something about the Supreme HF?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Did someone saw something about the Supreme HF?


Your's looks nicer than mine


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Your's looks nicer than mine


All you need is some polish, sandpaper, elbow grease, and plasti-dip.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Your's looks nicer than mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All you need is some polish, sandpaper, elbow grease, and plasti-dip.
Click to expand...

I did polish it a little bit. Maybe I'll redo it again at some point.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Did someone say something about the Supreme HF?


Oh my.... (are you supposed to touch yourself over computer parts???)


----------



## nepToon

So many amazing shots. This is more of a quick and dirty with the S3 mini cam.

EKWB love sandwich from top and bottom for my MCP35X. ♥


----------



## niklot1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Did someone say something about the Supreme HF?


Madness! Beautifully clean shot - great!


----------



## brandotip

I'm very close to finishing my build... just need to order some sleeved extensions, manage some cables, and I'm throwing around the idea of adding another rad in the bottom. I was able to borrow a decent camera yesterday so here are a few pics of the EK gear included in my build. Lovin that build quality









EK D5 vario x res 100 pump/res combo




EKWB GTX 780 ti (on ref 780) /w backplate


----------



## Malik




----------



## MeanBruce

I'm loving these EK reservoirs man, they all look quite familiar.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8994_zpsb79aece1.gif.html


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*


Wow!


----------



## Maticb

Hey guys, quick question I have this fullcover:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-original-csq-nickel.html

And I noticed my card sagged quite a bit, I'd say at least 0.5 CM on the far end, but unfortunately this doesn't seem to go with my fullcover:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/i-o-brackets/ek-fc-r9-290x-reinforcer-black.html

Is there any reinforcer that does?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I'm loving these EK reservoirs man, they all look quite familiar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8994_zpsb79aece1.gif.html


haha! I love this!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Malik as usual your photos are awesome!!!!

How do you like the Industrial Noctua?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Paint that CMOS battery gold!


----------



## jasjeet

Hi guys, my replacement EK DCP 2.2 pump is starting to make the same noise as the one which i RMA'd, and other people on my Youtube have noticed after a week or so the pump starts to get louder and louder. What is the deal here? Im quite disappointed with this now.
It seems like reviewers check the pump in its first few hours where it is whisper quiet, and never find out that it seems to degrade so fast.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> Hi guys, my replacement EK DCP 2.2 pump is starting to make the same noise as the one which i RMA'd, and other people on my Youtube have noticed after a week or so the pump starts to get louder and louder. What is the deal here? Im quite disappointed with this now.
> It seems like reviewers check the pump in its first few hours where it is whisper quiet, and never find out that it seems to degrade so fast.


Sounds like you didn't clean your rads well enough and loose metal got into the pump. Sometimes air can sounds like that, but I personally think it is metal shavings.


----------



## jasjeet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Sounds like you didn't clean your rads well enough and loose metal got into the pump. Sometimes air can sounds like that, but I personally think it is metal shavings.


Ive already flushed them twice with distilled water, and nothing much came out of them after the first flush (which was barely anything either). I was tested by the retailer on my installation when i called to RMA, and i told them the same thing, they also said what you are saying, but continued to RMA even after inspection, meaning it wasnt any shavings. So i really dont think this is the problem as they said they would check for this. On top of this, EK dont even mention to flush rads in their manual, although my own research informed me otherwise.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> Ive already flushed them twice with distilled water, and nothing much came out of them after the first flush (which was barely anything either). I was tested by the retailer on my installation when i called to RMA, and i told them the same thing, they also said what you are saying, but continued to RMA even after inspection, meaning it wasnt any shavings. So i really dont think this is the problem as they said they would check for this. On top of this, EK dont even mention to flush rads in their manual, although my own research informed me otherwise.


I flushed my XSPC 360mm 5 times with warm distiller and not much came out either; then I installed it with a XSPC 750 rev 4 bay res/pump. The pump started quiet but got very loud when bleeding. I contacted xspc after 3 days of the sound persisting after all the bubbles had been removed and the contacted PPCS to arrange a replacement to be sent out. When I got my replacement I bled the loop to remove the first pump and what do I see? Metal/acetal shavings. The second pump is an EK and runs whisper quiet ATM. My experience was with XSPC originally, but to my understanding Alphacool and EK are pretty notorious for needing a heavy rinsing agent.. There's some mayhem product that is eluding my memory ATM unfortunately.


----------



## Maticb

I also have a 2.2 pump and it had a similar sound to yours, but only for the first few seconds because I've never filled a loop before and I didn't put enough water/turn it off quickly enough.

After assembly it ran quietly, but unfortunately after a few days it started to make a quiet but annoying buzzing noise, like a coil whine but quieter, nothing is in my loop because I assume if it was I would see it in the reservoir but it's clean except for some air bubbles on the side of the reservoir.


----------



## erik109

EK for real:



EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Full Copper
EK Radeon R9-295X2 VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Copper and Acrylic
EK R9-295X2 VGA Liquid Cooling RAM Backplate - Black
EK D5 X-RES Top 140 w/ D5 Vario Pump
EK High Performance CoolStream 240 PE Series Liquid Cooling Radiator-Copper (x2)
EK EKoolant Premium Liquid Cooling Premix Coolant - Blood Red
EK ZMT Tubing - 3/8" ID (5/8"OD)


----------



## wrigleyvillain

That is one beastly little box.


----------



## Romanion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erik109*
> 
> EK for real:
> 
> 
> 
> EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Full Copper
> EK Radeon R9-295X2 VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Copper and Acrylic
> EK R9-295X2 VGA Liquid Cooling RAM Backplate - Black
> EK D5 X-RES Top 140 w/ D5 Vario Pump
> EK High Performance CoolStream 240 PE Series Liquid Cooling Radiator-Copper (x2)
> EK EKoolant Premium Liquid Cooling Premix Coolant - Blood Red
> EK ZMT Tubing - 3/8" ID (5/8"OD)


Nice. Where did you put your pump and res? Feel like running a 360mm rad top and 240mm rad front for my arc mini r2 but I don't know where I can place my hdd if I do that.


----------



## erik109

Thanks.

I had to mount the res/pump to the opposite side of the case. I didn't really take any photos of it but you can kind of see it here:



I originally planned on using a bay res (hence the 2x240), but the front rad required me to eliminate the 5.25 bracket.

A 360 up top would be ideal, but because of the width of the radiator I couldn't use the standard screw holes. If you have a 360 that is about the width of a h100 radiator that should mount perfectly.

There's no place for HDD in this setup. There's always the 2x SSD mounts behind the board, I suppose you could put a 2TB 2.5" drive back there.


----------



## jasjeet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> I also have a 2.2 pump and it had a similar sound to yours, but only for the first few seconds because I've never filled a loop before and I didn't put enough water/turn it off quickly enough.
> 
> After assembly it ran quietly, but unfortunately after a few days it started to make a quiet but annoying buzzing noise, like a coil whine but quieter, nothing is in my loop because I assume if it was I would see it in the reservoir but it's clean except for some air bubbles on the side of the reservoir.


Yep, im having doubts that this is my fault, i did everything to instruction, i tried my best to flush the rads too, which isnt even requested by EK. The buzzing is really annoying, its the loudest part of my whole system by a fair margin.


----------



## Romanion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erik109*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> I had to mount the res/pump to the opposite side of the case. I didn't really take any photos of it but you can kind of see it here:
> 
> I originally planned on using a bay res (hence the 2x240), but the front rad required me to eliminate the 5.25 bracket.
> 
> A 360 up top would be ideal, but because of the width of the radiator I couldn't use the standard screw holes. If you have a 360 that is about the width of a h100 radiator that should mount perfectly.
> 
> There's no place for HDD in this setup. There's always the 2x SSD mounts behind the board, I suppose you could put a 2TB 2.5" drive back there.


Was thinking that I might mount my HDD on my PSU. But I think I won't spend extra on a radiator in front for now. I'm planning to get the PE 360mm rad. Your 240mm radiator at the top doesn't align to the holes?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Very nice work.


----------



## erik109

The PE rad does not align with the holes.

I have mounted a H100i, H80i, and H110 in the arc mini and they align perfectly.

The H100i and H80i are 120mm wide.

PE rad is 130mm wide.


----------



## Romanion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erik109*
> 
> The PE rad does not align with the holes.
> 
> I have mounted a H100i, H80i, and H110 in the arc mini and they align perfectly.
> 
> The H100i and H80i are 120mm wide.
> 
> PE rad is 130mm wide.


Oh damn. How should I mount the PE 360mm rad then?

Edit: Oh you mean not enough space in between the screw hole and the side of the case for the rad to fit?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erik109*
> 
> The PE rad does not align with the holes.
> 
> I have mounted a H100i, H80i, and H110 in the arc mini and they align perfectly.
> 
> The H100i and H80i are 120mm wide.
> 
> PE rad is 130mm wide.


Wait...what? I have a PE in the top, it lined up just fine.









Edit: Nevermind...I thought I was replying to the Air540 Owners Club...


----------



## erik109

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Romanion*
> 
> Oh damn. How should I mount the PE 360mm rad then?
> 
> Edit: Oh you mean not enough space in between the screw hole and the side of the case for the rad to fit?


I had to adjust for the offset by screwing in to the hex mesh. For a 360mm Rad that is 130mm wide, I'd imagine you would need to drill holes for the two screws closest to the front. Something like this:


----------



## jasjeet

If there is metal in my DCP 2.2 pump how hard is it to just open it and remove the metal? I would assume a relatively obvious amount of metal would have gathered to cause such an issue? I really don't want to RMA again, I've already had to have the springs and pump replaced once on separate occasions...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Can I be a member now please??!!









How do you polish these things anyway?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I be a member now please??!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you polish these things anyway?


Nice!!!

For the polishing, @lowfat has a nice guide right here : Polishing Acrylic


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Nice!!!
> 
> For the polishing, @lowfat has a nice guide right here : Polishing Acrylic


I appreciate that kind sir







and thank for saying nice. Them things aint cheap!! I can't believe I have one of these after reading a magazine months ago on "DIY pc building" Lol


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I appreciate that kind sir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and thank for saying nice. Them things aint cheap!! I can't believe I have one of these after reading a magazine months ago on "DIY pc building" Lol


It might not be cheap but you have one of the best CPU block in your hands now


----------



## Romanion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It might not be cheap but you have one of the best CPU block in your hands now


Well according to the http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014 , its the best.


----------



## Kranik

Love me some EK


----------



## Blackops_2

So i had an acrylic top on my FC 7970 block crack on me. EK has spares apparently. Has anyone every ordered directly from EK to the US?


----------



## slippyturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So i had an acrylic top on my FC 7970 block crack on me. EK has spares apparently. Has anyone every ordered directly from EK to the US?


Shipping can be a little expensive, but I've ordered directly from EK twice and they've always shipped quickly with no problems.


----------



## Romanion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slippyturtle*
> 
> Shipping can be a little expensive, but I've ordered directly from EK twice and they've always shipped quickly with no problems.


Just ordered about €366 worth of stuff from them yesterday. 3-day DHL shipping cost me €50. Shipped out today so I'd say their shipping is pretty fast.

Sneak peak of my new loop.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So i had an acrylic top on my FC 7970 block crack on me. EK has spares apparently. Has anyone every ordered directly from EK to the US?


Every time they send me a box of goodies it takes 2 days to get to Boston from Slovenia. I've heard 2 days to California even so I"d imagine you'd get yours in 2-3 business days as well.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ordered my 2000 grit wetsand paper to polish my block today







Super stoked.


----------



## Malik

*pure*ELEGANCE


----------



## snef

simply amazing and im jealous of your photography skilzzzz


----------



## VSG

Agreed. Great job as always


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Every time they send me a box of goodies it takes 2 days to get to Boston from Slovenia. I've heard 2 days to California even so I"d imagine you'd get yours in 2-3 business days as well.


This^... I'm on the west coast and cheapest shipping got to me in 7 business days max.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ideal background and lighting!









And a pretty decent build too


----------



## derickwm




----------



## Jameswalt1

Great things on the horizon


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> *pure*ELEGANCE


Oh boy!!

My Pants just got wutercUlled!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Great things on the horizon


Cannot wait for this


----------



## failwheeldrive

Finally a new full cover clean plexi block







It's going to look incredible with a full polish.


----------



## VSG

Titan-Z blocks


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Great things on the horizon











cant imagine what you will do with these beauty.......


----------



## cstkl1

has anyone here had ek precise mount damage their bare die cpu??


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Cannot wait for this


Will EK be making GPU blocks like this from now on?

I hope so. I hate the old style blocks with the nickel plate on top.


----------



## marshymellows

Hon to do you clean the på rads? Do you need to blitz them or can you flush them with hot water then rinse with destilled water?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Will EK be making GPU blocks like this from now on?
> 
> I hope so. I hate the old style blocks with the nickel plate on top.


Its not a Nickel plate, its a stainless steel plate that is there to transfer water from the GPU section, over a row of tall caps, to the VRM section and back again. Any block for the same card will feature the same type of thing because it simply can't be avoided unless the VRM goes without active flow cooling. Cards that don't have a row of tall caps to cross over will not feature it.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its not a Nickel plate, its a stainless steel plate that is there to transfer water from the GPU section, over a row of tall caps, to the VRM section and back again. Any block for the same card will feature the same type of thing because it simply can't be avoided unless the VRM goes without active flow cooling. Cards that don't have a row of tall caps to cross over will not feature it.


Well AquaComputer manages to get around that without using that hideous plate [except on the 290X blocks and it's much smaller]; surely EK can as well.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cstkl1*
> 
> has anyone here had ek precise mount damage their bare die cpu??


I have minor scratches on the top of the die. But they only showed up after an application of Arctic Silver. Neither the EK tim that comes with the block nor CLU did any damage. I never accredited the damage to the block, but instead the TIM that has metal flakes in it.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Well AquaComputer manages to get around that without using that hideous plate [except on the 290X blocks and it's much smaller]; surely EK can as well.


The only block they currently make that has a row of caps is their 290x block and it does have a bridge plate. EK could simply not make as many different blocks too I guess.
The Aqaucomp 290x block uses smaller flow channels (and not all the flow) and a smaller active VRM cooling secition than the EK blocks. That is one reason it is smaller. EK use larger flow channels and make the bridge plate fit with the minimal clean design of the rest of the block instead of putting a palm tree on it.
Just a different design aesthetic.

There is no way to completely avoid it unless the GPU card designers change the cards. Including the very high end ASUS DCII, EVGA Classified, MSI Lightning and so on cards.


----------



## Nichismo

Some new pictures (from my crappy phone albeit) of my long awaited revamp.

Vs the old pictures in my profile, I upgraded from my horrible Gigabyte X79-UP4 to the fantastic Rampage IV Extreme Black edition. Being the famous, excellent motherboard that it is, OF COURSE I had to pick up a thing or two from the premier name in performance PC liquid cooling









At first, I had difficulty deciding whether I should just purchase the two piece waterblock set, or the new Monoblock. In the end, despite the small inconvenience, im more than glad I went with multi-block setup. I have always wanted to setup a loop with the short, multi-block rigid links on X79 motherboards, and the moment I laid eyes on JamesW Robocop rig, my inspiration and foundation were set


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Cannot wait for this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will EK be making GPU blocks like this from now on?
> 
> I hope so. I hate the old style blocks with the nickel plate on top.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its not a Nickel plate, its a stainless steel plate that is there to transfer water from the GPU section, over a row of tall caps, to the VRM section and back again. Any block for the same card will feature the same type of thing because it simply can't be avoided unless the VRM goes without active flow cooling. Cards that don't have a row of tall caps to cross over will not feature it.
> 
> 
> 
> Well AquaComputer manages to get around that without using that hideous plate [except on the 290X blocks and it's much smaller]; surely EK can as well.
Click to expand...

As others have said it's done for a reason. Do you want your blocks to be made much thicker? That will not only cost you guys more but also put more strain on the GPU. It's not an "old style", it just depends on the card itself. Take the 295X2 block for a reason, our block is the only solution (AFAIK) that will allow the card to be a true single slot solution, this is due to the stainless steel plate we use.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cstkl1*
> 
> has anyone here had ek precise mount damage their bare die cpu??


The only issue I've had with the bare die kit is that I over tightened the bolts and it caused flex on the pcb.


----------



## cstkl1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> The only issue I've had with the bare die kit is that I over tightened the bolts and it caused flex on the pcb.


wouldnt the pressure be on the cpu?

so your case in end up with the cpu having contact issues with the pins?

also i was under the assumption that ek blocks mounting mechanism meant that i had to go all the way down. is that not the case??


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cstkl1*
> 
> wouldnt the pressure be on the cpu?
> 
> so your case in end up with the cpu having contact issues with the pins?
> 
> also i was under the assumption that ek blocks mounting mechanism meant that i had to go all the way down. is that not the case??


Yes you are supposed to tighten the nuts all the way down. The bolts should be hand tightened though. I used pliers the first time around and they were over tightened. The pcb had a slight curb when I pulled it out but I did not have contact issues. This time around I hand tightened everything and have 0 issues.


----------



## cstkl1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Yes you are supposed to tighten the nuts all the way down. The bolts should be hand tightened though. I used pliers the first time around and they were over tightened. The pcb had a slight curb when I pulled it out but I did not have contact issues. This time around I hand tightened everything and have 0 issues.


thats a relief

so hand tighten is enough..

man you got balls of steel bro.
even hand tighten would freak me out whether the cpu cracked.. but you went with pliers. lol

your







i salute.

did you also put some lacquer or nail polish on the ivr??


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cstkl1*
> 
> thats a relief
> 
> so hand tighten is enough..
> 
> man you got balls of steel bro.
> even hand tighten would freak me out whether the cpu cracked.. but you went with pliers. lol
> 
> your
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i salute.
> 
> did you also put some lacquer or nail polish on the ivr??


I put liquid electrical tape on de caps next to the die because I'm using CLU for the die.

Yeah I just went all out and thought I needed to really secure the bolts to my motherboard. But you live and learn. Honestly as long as the pressure is distributed evenly the risk of cracking the die is low, the pcb will flex before that happens also if you run in to flex issues just add the IHS for a while, it will get the pcb back in the right shape, at least that worked for me.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Every time they send me a box of goodies it takes 2 days to get to Boston from Slovenia. I've heard 2 days to California even so I"d imagine you'd get yours in 2-3 business days as well.


Just placed the order 51.19$. Just hate that the acrylic cracked upon disassemble







. Hopefully they might start stocking these parts somewhere in the US, though i doubt there is a big enough market to warrant it. I imagine I would've saved 10-15$ if i could've gotten it for 20ish from a US based store. It's necessary though lol, so it's on the way.


----------



## Maticb

I swear to god my EK DCP 2.2 pump sounds different every week, it has now gone back to being quiet and no more annoying whine, did anyone else notice that with this pump?


----------



## llamaegg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Great things on the horizon


Man, super hot!


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Hon to do you clean the på rads? Do you need to blitz them or can you flush them with hot water then rinse with destilled water?


Bump


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Bump


I did my first loop a little under am onth ago and bought 1 brand new EK 120 rad + one used but said to be brand new MagiCool 240 and because I am a lazy person I only bought 1 liter of water then I realised I read I need to flush components before use but 1l isn't enough because I spent a good 0,6 at least in the loop and I didn't have a feeling of how much I need to flush so I only flushed the PrimoFlex tube because it had some weird black shards inside. I didn't flush or rinse any other part and so far there doesn't seem to be a problem, I didn't notice anything in my reservoir.

I'd say you don't have to clean it at all.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Hon to do you clean the på rads? Do you need to blitz them or can you flush them with hot water then rinse with destilled water?


You don't have to blitz them. The PE rads are pretty clean at first BUT like every radiators it has to be clean individually before going into the loop.

Just flushed them with hot tap water and do the shaking dance....flush the content in a bowl and check the residue...repeat this process with clean hot tap water until you can barely see any junk in the water. It "usually" take 3-4 times.

After that you install them in your loop and with the leak test phase with distilled water of the loop you will be good to go.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> I did my first loop a little under a month ago and bought 1 brand new EK 120 rad + one used but said to be brand new MagiCool 240 and because I am a lazy person I only bought 1 liter of water then I realised I read I need to flush components before use but 1l isn't enough because I spent a good 0,6 at least in the loop and I didn't have a feeling of how much I need to flush so I only flushed the PrimoFlex tube because it had some weird black shards inside. I didn't flush or rinse any other part and so far there doesn't seem to be a problem, I didn't notice anything in my reservoir.
> 
> I'd say you don't have to clean it at all.


This comment + the comment about your DCP2.2 making some wierd noise sometimes looks to be a perfect match for me









Your pump was probably eating some radiator junk when it was becoming loud...


----------



## Romanion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You don't have to blitz them. The PE rads are pretty clean at first BUT like every radiators it has to be clean individually before going into the loop.
> 
> Just flushed them with hot tap water and do the shaking dance....flush the content in a bowl and check the residue...repeat this process with clean hot tap water until you can barely see any junk in the water. It "usually" take 3-4 times.
> 
> After that you install them in your loop and with the leak test phase with distilled water of the loop you will be good to go.


I just cleaned my new PE rad. A bit of junk inside, but not too much.


----------



## snef

just saw this on Facebook

new line of Coolant, Pastel Color,
good news EK


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> just saw this on Facebook
> 
> new line of Coolant, Pastel Color,
> good news EK


Kind of surprised EK did this... and didn't even bother to use a different name lol. Never hurts to have options I guess. I wonder if it'll be cheaper than Mayhems.


----------



## derickwm

No need for a new name...


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> No need for a new name...


Just saw your post that it was a collaboration with Mayhems. My bad, didn't know you guys were working together.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> just saw this on Facebook
> 
> new line of Coolant, Pastel Color,
> good news EK


DO'H

beat me to it









EK Launches a New Line of Pastel Nano-Coolants.

Hmmmm and I just picked up some Primoflex Advanced LRT in Clear from PPCS, preparing for a new water build.

Wonder what pastel red would look like, or creamy smooth white? Um like heavy cream I guess, dumb question.









TPU Press Release:
http://www.techpowerup.com/204011/ek-launches-the-new-line-of-pastel-nano-coolants.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/EK-Ekoolant-Pastel_All_1200_zps75d04147.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/M...sphere-promo_detail_1200_zps4a6fc612.jpg.html


----------



## Mayhem

This has been on the books for a while.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> *EK introduces 16mm variant of EK-HDC compression fittings*
> 
> EK Water Blocks, Ljubljana-based premium computer liquid cooling gear manufacturer, is proud to introduce the latest addition to EK-HDC solid-tubing Compression Fitting product line.
> 
> EK-HDC Fitting is a solid-tube compression fitting, designed for use with solid tubing such as Acrylic, Copper, Stainless Steel or any other type of compatible hard tube. EK-HDC Fitting is a more secure variant of the EK-HD Adapter fitting as it prevents solid tube to be pulled out of the fitting by compressing the rubber gasket underneath the ring.
> 
> 
> 
> The barb is made of nickel-plated CNC machined brass while the ring is made of either nickel-plated brass or anodized aluminum (depending on the variant). These fittings are fully compatible with EK-CSQ series (45°/90°) angled adapters.
> 
> Best practice is to install these fittings using Allen Key 9mm (not included, available for separate purchase).
> 
> EK-HDC Fitting 16mm Technical data:
> - thread: G1/4" BSP; 4.5mm male thread lenght
> - supported tube: 16mm (OD)
> - outer diameter of a fitting: 23.8mm
> - installed height: 14.5mm
> - compatible tubing: solid Acrylic-, Copper-, Brass- or Stainless Steel tube
> 
> ROHS Compliant. Made in Slovenia - Europe!


More fittings always gets a big







from me


----------



## akira749

@derickwm Depending on the pictures I saw, the Black Nickel finish on the new HDC fittings doesn't seem to be the same as the Black Nickel CSQ angled fittings.

Is it just a question of lighting during the photo shoot?

Thanks:thumb:


----------



## derickwm

That'd be the lighting


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That'd be the lighting


Thanks my friend


----------



## TTheuns

Beautiful! EK fittings for copper tubing and in black! Looks like the only thing non EK in my loop will be radiators and reservoir.


----------



## derickwm

And what can we do to change that


----------



## Ragsters

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*






No white?


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That'd be the lighting


Will there be colored tubing to go with these or will you stick only with clear tubes?

I really need to get my new office setup so I can tinker with my rig again, I think I will redo my loop. When will these new fittings be available here in the US?


----------



## derickwm

Just clear tubes. I imagine in a week or so.


----------



## Nichismo

I know Ive already uploaded several photos recently, but I couldnt resist some of these up close shots I took earlier. I never usually get crisp photos from my phone, but somehow I nailed the focus and lighting for a few of these.

Its an EKWB bonanza inside my rig now

(sorry for the psu power cord in the way in a few pics)


----------



## jasjeet

I gave in to my inner engineer, after everyone saying its my fault for not "properly" flushing my rads and the EK DCP 2.2 making a buzzing noise after a week, so went and took it apart. It was spotless and so was the water that i took out.

Does EK or anybody know why this pump gets louder after some days of use?

From my own investigation, it seems that the plastic shims that rub on the shaft are either degrading and causing noises to start occurring, or there is something up with the rubber caps that surround the shaft. I cant believe that people would live with this noise. When i span the shaft between my fingers by the rubber caps, i could feel that it wasnt totally smooth.


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> I gave in to my inner engineer, after everyone saying its my fault for not "properly" flushing my rads and the EK DCP 2.2 making a buzzing noise after a week, so went and took it apart. It was spotless and so was the water that i took out.
> 
> Does EK or anybody know why this pump gets louder after some days of use?
> 
> From my own investigation, it seems that the plastic shims that rub on the shaft are either degrading and causing noises to start occurring, or there is something up with the rubber caps that surround the shaft. I cant believe that people would live with this noise. When i span the shaft between my fingers by the rubber caps, i could feel that it wasnt totally smooth.


There is a review on the EKWB offical web shop that is complaining about the noise to, but to bad I read the reviews 1 day after ordering my 300€ watercooling batch









I mean it's not that noisy, well at least not mine. But I am definetly buying a 4.0 pump ASAP









And I'm with you on the flushing. This was my first loop and I was nervous and kept an eye on the reservoir and everything a few minutes after first leak testing the loop and there was no obvious metal shards going throught it.


----------



## jasjeet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> There is a review on the EKWB offical web shop that is complaining about the noise to, but to bad I read the reviews 1 day after ordering my 300€ watercooling batch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean it's not that noisy, well at least not mine. But I am definetly buying a 4.0 pump ASAP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I'm with you on the flushing. This was my first loop and I was nervous and kept an eye on the reservoir and everything a few minutes after first leak testing the loop and there was no obvious metal shards going throught it.


Exactly, there are another few on this forum who have noticed, and on my Youtube channel. I ather not RMA it every week with EK as im that kind of person who doesnt want to hassle EK for an otherwise impeccable kit.

I am a silent freak as this is a work station, and i need a quiet environment to work in. All my fans are at 600rpm, and previously I ha a Silver Arrow Extreme Air cooler which was also set to 600rpm. Id even say the H80i i replaced was quieter than this, at least a less annoying noise, but an audible hum.

So what are my options, other than running this thing rattling away? I dont think its fair to dump more and more money, im going to have to get more coolant too...

You can see pics of my setup in my avatar, im very limited in space.


----------



## Maticb

Well the DCP 4.0 PWM is said to be better and also as the name suggest it's also PWM.

It's only about 10-15€ more then the 2.2 pump so if you sell the 2.2 used you lose say 10€ and add 25€ to buy the 4.0

It is virtually identical on the outside.


----------



## jasjeet

hmm could do but dont think i can sell it considering i dont accept it myself. DCP 4.0 looks the same dimesions which is important. Anyone know if the internals are any better quality? Bearings etc?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasjeet*
> 
> hmm could do but dont think i can sell it considering i dont accept it myself. DCP 4.0 looks the same dimesions which is important. Anyone know if the internals are any better quality? Bearings etc?


I will just throw my 2 cents in and say the 4.0 was the loudest part of my loop until I installed some Sunon server fans. When I had the Gelid fans that come with the EK kits, the pump was as loud as the fans running at 1600 rpms. It could be my choice in mounting, but I have mounted it two different ways, with little change in audible signature.

Its an even hum, and actually is not as bad as listening to fans at about the same db level. I dont know if the 4.0 is the answer you are looking for, but it is a damn fine pump.


----------



## pdasterly

I have maximus vi hero board and want to purchase the ek-sb m6g waterblock, ek website says 2nd gpu card wont fit with gene board, is this true for the hero board also?

PLEASE NOTE:
- The use of this water block prevents the use of full-lenght PCI-Express expansion cards in the 2nd PCI-Express x16 slot on the ASUS Maximus VI Gene motherboard.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> I have maximus vi hero board and want to purchase the ek-sb m6g waterblock, ek website says 2nd gpu card wont fit with gene board, is this true for the hero board also?
> 
> PLEASE NOTE:
> - The use of this water block prevents the use of full-lenght PCI-Express expansion cards in the 2nd PCI-Express x16 slot on the ASUS Maximus VI Gene motherboard.


No on the Hero board you'll be able to still use the second pcie slot


----------



## pdasterly

where can i buy ek intel block in the us, frozencpu and performance-pcs sold out of the one i need. frozen can order the ltx version but I really dont want that one


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> where can i buy ek intel block in the us, frozencpu and performance-pcs sold out of the one i need. frozen can order the ltx version but I really dont want that one


Which one are you looking for?


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Which one are you looking for?


EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Nickel

or basically something to match these

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/mosfet-blocks/intel-z87-series/ek-mosfet-asus-m6g-nickel.html
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-sb-asus-m6g-nickel.html


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Nickel
> 
> or basically something to match these
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/mosfet-blocks/intel-z87-series/ek-mosfet-asus-m6g-nickel.html
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-sb-asus-m6g-nickel.html


Ok then I might have something for you. It's not in the US but just up north in Canada. It's Dazmode and he currently has 3 in stock.

EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ Nickel


----------



## pdasterly

shipping was high, but ordered anyway. Thanks


----------



## Romanion

Found that my EK Supremacy backplate was slightly bent at one corner, 290x backplate was missing screws.


----------



## jasjeet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I will just throw my 2 cents in and say the 4.0 was the loudest part of my loop until I installed some Sunon server fans. When I had the Gelid fans that come with the EK kits, the pump was as loud as the fans running at 1600 rpms. It could be my choice in mounting, but I have mounted it two different ways, with little change in audible signature.
> 
> Its an even hum, and actually is not as bad as listening to fans at about the same db level. I dont know if the 4.0 is the answer you are looking for, but it is a damn fine pump.


I have a push pull on the radiator, an intake fan, and 2 exhaust fans. All running at 600rpm. The thing with the pump is that it wouldnt be noticeable if it was a smooth sound, like it was when it was new. But its grinding/buzzing noise is what is annoying, the sound level isnt a problem, a hum is ok, a brrrrr is not. Looking around, the 4.0 will sound similar, so ive just flipped the plastic shim over to give it a bit smoother/quieter sound, and mounted it on velcro. My performance is already good, hitting 25-30c idle and 70-75c load at an ambient ~24c.


----------



## VSG

FYI the EK-FB KIT GA Z97X-SOC Force and EK-FC R9-290X SE are up for sale on the EK web shop.


----------



## afokke

Does the EK-FC Terminal - Plexi work with two EK-FC R9 290X - Nickel Rev 2.0 spaced 3 slots apart?


----------



## VSG

Those are single block terminals, they simply replace the stock black acetal ones you have with those blocks.


----------



## afokke

my bad, I thought it was some kind of bridge


----------



## VSG

That's in the makings. I am waiting to see how they turn out!


----------



## afokke

Something that looks like whatever is connecting the video cards in this picture?


----------



## VSG

Yes


----------



## afokke

What is being used in that picture then


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> What is being used in that picture then


It's the original CSQ design


----------



## VSG

That's the Bridge from the EK Original CSQ design: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts.html

That isn't compatible with the Clean CSQ style block you have.


----------



## afokke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's the original CSQ design


Ah, is it discontinued?

also what does CSQ stand for


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> Something that looks like whatever is connecting the video cards in this picture?


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-triple-parallel-csq-plexi.html


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> Ah, is it discontinued?
> 
> also what does CSQ stand for


Not discontinued, just another design style which uses different connectivity options.

CSQ is Circle Square if I am not mistaken.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> CSQ is *C*ircle *Sq*uare if I am not mistaken.


Exactly


----------



## Maticb

I have a CSQ waterblock because I liked the design more. Basically the difference is the CSQ ones have actual "circle" holes the G1/4s on the block and you get this little "terminal" to invert them 90Deegres but you can still attach the fittings directly to the block (meaning in a normal case setup the fitting would point straight down).

While the other blocks do not have g1/4 threads on the block but instead a squarish sort of inlet/outlet, to which you MUST attach this terminal in order for it to get G1/4s.

And no as said it's not EOL, it's just 2 different designs by EK. CSQ is newer if I am not mistaken, as they want to make their brand unique and "memorable" with these circles.


----------



## OwaN

Is it possible to swap acetal and acrylic tops on the FC-290X blocks? i.e. go from acetal to acrylic?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> I have a CSQ waterblock because I liked the design more. Basically the difference is the CSQ ones have actual "circle" holes the G1/4s on the block and you get this little "terminal" to invert them 90Deegres but you can still attach the fittings directly to the block (meaning in a normal case setup the fitting would point straight down).
> 
> While the other blocks do not have g1/4 threads on the block but instead a squarish sort of inlet/outlet, to which you MUST attach this terminal in order for it to get G1/4s.
> 
> And no as said it's not EOL, it's just 2 different designs by EK. CSQ is newer if I am not mistaken, as they want to make their brand unique and "memorable" with these circles.


The new FC-terminal is the newest design, CSQ is one generation older. Circles aside, I always preferred having the terminal on top as it gives more port flexibility than the CSQ design with the ports only on one side


----------



## VSG

Yes, you can swap tops. In fact I am considering doing just that myself but can't see a US retailer with tops alone.


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> Is it possible to swap acetal and acrylic tops on the FC-290X blocks? i.e. go from acetal to acrylic?
> The new FC-terminal is the newest design, CSQ is one generation older. I always preferred having the terminal on top as it gives more port flexibility than the CSQ design with the ports only on one side


Probably you can swap them but why? Wouldn't you have to buy 2 blocks to do that?

They seem to be attached by screws only.

And BTW the CSQ can look almost the same, all you need to add is this:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-single-plexi.html

Then the ports are the same.


----------



## BranField

anyone know more about EK-FC R9-290X Vapor X? (http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1465)
ive been trying to find out more for a while now


----------



## OwaN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> Probably you can swap them but why? Wouldn't you have to buy 2 blocks to do that?
> 
> They seem to be attached by screws only.
> 
> And BTW the CSQ can look almost the same, all you need to add is this:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-single-plexi.html
> 
> Then the ports are the same.


Yes, but its still an extra part to buy.
As far as the tops go, I already have 2x acetal, just curious if I could talk EK into selling me replacement acrylic tops if I change my mind and want to go acrylic to match other parts of my loop
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yes, you can swap tops. In fact I am considering doing just that myself but can't see a US retailer with tops alone.


Yea, supremacy tops for days, but nothing for GPU blocks. No shock, there are a lot more different GPU block designs so there would be a lot more SKU's to handle. I wonder if EK would sell you some directly considering they have shipped them out separately for people whos tops are cracked under warranty


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> I wonder if EK would sell you some directly considering they have shipped them out separately for people whos tops are cracked under warranty


Contact @derickwm and see. I may do the same!


----------



## Maticb

Honestly I think even if they did the price differencewould be to small, and hassle + shipping since I doubt you are from Slovenia are worth it instead of simply buying a new block and selling the old ones.


----------



## afokke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> Basically the difference is the CSQ ones have actual "circle" holes the G1/4s on the block and you get this little "terminal" to invert them 90Deegres but you can still attach the fittings directly to the block (meaning in a normal case setup the fitting would point straight down).
> 
> While the other blocks do not have g1/4 threads on the block but instead a squarish sort of inlet/outlet, to which you MUST attach this terminal in order for it to get G1/4s.


I think I understand now. Do the GPU blocks come with a terminal that you can replace if you want, then?


----------



## Maticb

Yes, it comes with a terminal that you have to attach with a screw yourself.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> Honestly I think even if they did the price differencewould be to small, and hassle *+ shipping since I doubt you are from Slovenia* are worth it instead of simply buying a new block and selling the old ones.


It's really not that bad even if you're in the US


----------



## OwaN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> Honestly I think even if they did the price differencewould be to small, and hassle + shipping since I doubt you are from Slovenia are worth it instead of simply buying a new block and selling the old ones.


Not from Slovenia, but selling is its own hassle + would probably take a noticeable loss. Replacing the tops I don't even think I'd have to re-mount the block and I'd have a backup acetal top in case the acrylic ever cracked.


----------



## afokke

Can't find the EK Supremacy nickel/plexi available anywhere


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> Can't find the EK Supremacy nickel/plexi available anywhere


EK webstore?


----------



## Mofomamy

Could something dire be happening to EK? Is there a pending announcement?


----------



## VSG

lol nothing dire is happening. All I can say has been said here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1491508/sponsored-the-utterly-imbalanced-caselabs-tx10-d-build-s/450_50#post_22704341


----------



## Mofomamy

Level with me. Has Microsoft paid EK to make the Supremacy an X-box exclusive?


----------



## VSG

Lol I hope not! Can't say much more than this honestly.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> Can't find the EK Supremacy nickel/plexi available anywhere


https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/ek-supremacy-clean-csq_nickel_plexi/
stil 2 available


----------



## Maticb

Well when I ordered my full set from the EKWB site I had to wait close to a week and I opened a support ticket they told me an item wasn't in stock and they tesponded to the ticket "one of the items wasn't in stock and we made one for you today".

So idk, try ordering from their offical site


----------



## joztdarb

Heres my entry for EK Facebook competition, full build log is on the OCUK Forums as I've not had a chance to write it up on here yet.

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18615550

EK Supremacy and EK D5 Vario Pump with X-Top


----------



## Pheozero

Sounds like a new CPU block.


----------



## OwaN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol nothing dire is happening. All I can say has been said here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1491508/sponsored-the-utterly-imbalanced-caselabs-tx10-d-build-s/450_50#post_22704341


Cool, Glad I didn't pick up a supremacy too early, but now I'm a bit concerned that there will be a mad rush and I'll have to wait when I'm actually ready to buy!

Assuming that this is a new CPU block, that is


----------



## afokke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joztdarb*
> 
> Heres my entry for EK Facebook competition, full build log is on the OCUK Forums as I've not had a chance to write it up on here yet.
> 
> http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18615550


Say, what is that you have at the bottom of your loop, the square block with the circle of coolant? And to its right, is that some EK pump top?

Sorry, still learning to identify all the components in others' builds







whenever I don't recognize something I ask.


----------



## VSG

The first part looks like a Primochill Vortex flow indicator, and the right does look like a EK D5 Clean CSQ Plexi top. I am sure he will confirm soon!


----------



## joztdarb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> Say, what is that you have at the bottom of your loop, the square block with the circle of coolant? And to its right, is that some EK pump top?
> 
> Sorry, still learning to identify all the components in others' builds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> whenever I don't recognize something I ask.


No worries man, on the left is a Primo Chill Vortex Flow meter (it usually visibly spinning but not when your not using Mayhems Pastel coolant lol) and on the right is a D5 Vario Pump with an EK X-TOP (added an extra EK badge to the side, usually it just has one on the front, also carbon wrapped the back and braided the cables)

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-d5-vario-x-top-plexi-incl-pump.html


----------



## derickwm

A lot of the times we can assemble products if you pre-order them.

If you want any replacement GPU tops please create a support ticket on our website and we can help you out with getting you what you need.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> A lot of the times we can assemble products if you pre-order them.
> 
> If you want any replacement GPU tops please create a support ticket on our website and we can help you out with getting you what you need.


Cool, creating one now for 2 Plexi GPU tops


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Sounds like a new CPU block.


If it's the fact then I will wait a little bit longer before I order my EK stuff for the Xenomorph!


----------



## afokke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Sounds like a new CPU block.


Please be true! How convenient that all the places are out of stock to protect me from ordering a possibly-soon-to-be-older model









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joztdarb*
> 
> No worries man, on the left is a Primo Chill Vortex Flow meter (it usually visibly spinning but not when your not using Mayhems Pastel coolant lol) and on the right is a D5 Vario Pump with an EK X-TOP (added an extra EK badge to the side, usually it just has one on the front, also carbon wrapped the back and braided the cables)
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-d5-vario-x-top-plexi-incl-pump.html


Thanks







the D5 pump that is included in the product link is the same as any other D5 you could get seperately right?


----------



## joztdarb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the D5 pump that is included in the product link is the same as any other D5 you could get seperately right?


Yeah thats right, you can buy the X-Top separately here http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/d5-series/ek-d5-x-top-csq-plexi.html


----------



## Ragsters

Is the waterblock out yet for the MSI Z97I Gaming AC LGA 1150 motherboard?


----------



## Hooded

Here is a couple shots of my latest build, using all EK Nickle Plexi Blocks and EK 280/420 XTC Radiators

Hardware


Case Phanteks Enthoo Primo
Asus Maximus VI Formula
Intel Core i7 4770k
Asus nVidia Geforce GTX780ti reference
16 GB Kingston Hyper X 1866 DDR3
2 - Kingston Hyper X 240 GB SSDs
1 - M.2 Slim Form Factor Plextor 256GB SSD (bottom PCIE slot)
EVGA 750G PSU
2 Darkside Blue LED's

Cooling


EK - 420 rad. up top
EK 280 rad floor
All EK CSQ Clean Blocks
Daz's CPU block with mapleleaf
BitsPower 250 res.
BitsPower Acrylic D5 top
Daz's D5 Vario
3 Bitfenix 140 fans up top
5 Phanteks 140's on case and lower rad.





Will most likely be upgrading to EK's 16mm hard tube, then some sleeve and coloured coolant.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Sounds like a new CPU block.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> Cool, Glad I didn't pick up a supremacy too early, but now I'm a bit concerned that there will be a mad rush and I'll have to wait when I'm actually ready to buy!
> 
> Assuming that this is a new CPU block, that is


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> Please be true! How convenient that all the places are out of stock to protect me from ordering a possibly-soon-to-be-older model


I think it is a new CPU Block because both FCPU and PPC have no stock on the EK Supremacy - Clean Full Nickel, actually as a matter of fact PPC actually removed that block from the site completely!
















**Edit**
they actually have no stock for almost all the blocks actually...


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> Here is a couple shots of my latest build, using all EK Nickle Plexi Blocks and EK 280/420 XTC Radiators
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hardware
> 
> Case Phanteks Enthoo Primo
> Asus Maximus VI Formula
> Intel Core i7 4770k
> Asus nVidia Geforce GTX780ti reference
> 16 GB Kingston Hyper X 1866 DDR3
> 2 - Kingston Hyper X 240 GB SSDs
> 1 - M.2 Slim Form Factor Plextor 256GB SSD (bottom PCIE slot)
> EVGA 750G PSU
> 2 Darkside Blue LED's
> 
> Cooling
> 
> EK - 420 rad. up top
> EK 280 rad floor
> All EK CSQ Clean Blocks
> Daz's CPU block with mapleleaf
> BitsPower 250 res.
> BitsPower Acrylic D5 top
> Daz's D5 Vario
> 3 Bitfenix 140 fans up top
> 5 Phanteks 140's on case and lower rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will most likely be upgrading to EK's 16mm hard tube, then some sleeve and coloured coolant.


Not usually a fan of UV but that looks spectacular


----------



## Hooded

Thank You .

There is no UV in the build though. Just blue LED's in blocks and two Darkside blue light strips.


----------



## iBored

EKWB teased of gigabyte x99 waterblocks on fb!


Edit: included EKWB's Facebook message...


----------



## VSG

I don't see any motherboard waterblocks in there though?


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Hint of EKWB's gigabyte x99 waterblocks!!!


Excuse me sir but that doesn't mean anything. There is no tube connection to anywhere the board would need a block.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I don't see any motherboard waterblocks in there though?


Looked at the picture and was going to comment the exact same thing scrolled down saw your comment and chuckled!


----------



## VSG

The exact quote is
Quote:


> GIGABYTE X99 platform with EK Water Blocks liquid cooling coming soon!


I am sure EK will have motherboard blocks for Gigabyte's x99 boards, especially the SOC Force or equivalent. But that picture likely was referring to the x99 board that's coming soon with the CPU cooled by the Supremacy


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Is the waterblock out yet for the MSI Z97I Gaming AC LGA 1150 motherboard?


Maybe some pics?


----------



## niklot1981

__
https://flic.kr/p/14741248250


__
https://flic.kr/p/14904924276


__
https://flic.kr/p/14904924806


__
https://flic.kr/p/14741247870


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Gotta love EK

http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/ian1alcorn/media/IMG_1139_zps90e773d5.jpg.html


----------



## VSG

Yup. My build is nowhere near completion but figured I might as well enter this in here:


----------



## afokke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yup. My build is nowhere near completion but figured I might as well enter this in here:


I don't recognize those GPUs... 2 8-pin + 6-pin power


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> I don't recognize those GPUs... 2 8-pin + 6-pin power


Tell me about it! There are 2 current single GPU cards with the same configuration- MSI R9 290x Lightning and EVGA GTX 780 Ti Classified K|ngp|n Edition. Mine are the latter two:


http://imgur.com/a


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Tell me about it! There are 2 current single GPU cards with the same configuration- MSI R9 290x Lightning and EVGA GTX 780 Ti Classified K|ngp|n Edition. Mine are the latter two:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a


With great power comes great responsabilities









Sorry I had to do it


----------



## VSG

Well at least you didn't add a GIF to that post


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well at least you didn't add a GIF to that post










are you daring me here?


----------



## VSG

lol no, I have lost this fight to Derick and PCModderMike before


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol no, I have lost this fight to Derick and PCModderMike before


lollll those 2 are out of this world in terms of anime gif.....but I couldn't resist


----------



## fireedo

hi,
this is my first time using custom watercooling and I think there is something wrong because, my cpu load temp I think are bad

That just 6 minute of prime95, my ambient temperature is about 29-31 C



I have try re-seating the cpu WB, re-mounting, I dont know whats wrong with this setup

here is my loop : res ---> pump --->cpu--->M/B ---> Rad 280 (push) ---> GPU/VGA ---> Rad (pull) --->res



my pump is EK DCP 4.0 PWM

and yes my case is not great, since the Rad is too big too fit in my case (carbide aire 540)

anyone can help me?


----------



## Romanion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> Not from Slovenia, but selling is its own hassle + would probably take a noticeable loss. Replacing the tops I don't even think I'd have to re-mount the block and I'd have a backup acetal top in case the acrylic ever cracked.


Bad TiM? Maybe delidding would help? My 4570 gets to 60-70c with 28c ambient.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireedo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> hi,
> this is my first time using custom watercooling and I think there is something wrong because, my cpu load temp I think are bad
> 
> That just 6 minute of prime95, my ambient temperature is about 29-31 C
> 
> 
> 
> I have try re-seating the cpu WB, re-mounting, I dont know whats wrong with this setup
> 
> here is my loop : res ---> pump --->cpu--->M/B ---> Rad 280 (push) ---> GPU/VGA ---> Rad (pull) --->res
> 
> 
> 
> my pump is EK DCP 4.0 PWM
> 
> and yes my case is not great, since the Rad is too big too fit in my case (carbide aire 540)
> 
> 
> anyone can help me?


I dont know how that processor overclocks, but is that a kink going from the cpu to vrms?


----------



## fireedo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I dont know how that processor overclocks, but is that a kink going from the cpu to vrms?


not that much kink, I dont know but my angle taking that picture give worse than real look....I mean it not kink that much

just 1.33v - 1.344v of vcore, dont know what is wrong


----------



## Hooded

Sounds like a possible blockage in one of your components.

Did you flush your rads well before use?

Did you make a recent coolent change?

Are you using good fans on the rads?


----------



## fireedo

I think, I have enough flushing radiator and cpu block, coolant just adding, fans ok....I have no idea


----------



## =FIB=Goldberg

Just check to see that there is no air in the system with the computer running tip it left and right back and forth see in there is any air comes out







if that top rad was full of air that would indeed mess up your cooling . Also made sure there is good water flow


----------



## Kipsofthemud

Oh god I love EK design so much <3

Got a 2nd 290 'mostly' to be able to use an FC Bridge


----------



## Ragsters

All EK blocks.


----------



## cstkl1

My issue with ek. Start rant.

Mobo block screws too short for vrm on m6e.
This however i think was asus fault. They changed the thickness of the backplate.
Cpu block the ek backplate was not threaded so the screws cant go in and they were bent. Eventhough my last ek block was the x58 classy which was a basket to install with the plastic stands. Just disappointed.

Anyway juat hoping to finish the build. The gpu blocks no issue thank god but.. Dont get how one of the backplate came with wrong thermalpad thickness n uncut. Luckily had spare from the blocks n previous backplate.

Out of 12items ordered from ek direct 6 opened to assemble n install had 3 faults, another 6 more still havent assemble ...pump n res stuff which i will know only later after assembling.

Its like they just said lets screw with this one guy

Rant end.
Only hope that the decision from going from superbly running aircooling rig to wc wont end up with me killing my hardware.


----------



## afokke

I'm having some trouble understand, what is the difference between the bridge/link parts and the terminals? can either system be used with the full cover video card blocks (EK-FC R9-290X in my case)? Do either require any additional parts?

Also, I would like to get the EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ-Plexi. Do I need BOTH the EK-UNI Holder AND the EK-UNI Pump Holder to mount it and the pump without drilling extra holes in my case? Do I need an X-res with the X-TOP or can I use any reservoir?


----------



## Hooded

Woo Hoo I just got a PM from EK-AMD Never Settle saying I won !! 

Thanks so much EK and AMD


----------



## MrPT

My loop, all parts from EK


----------



## Hooded

OK I figured out where to cash in my code so here are the games I got.

I already have Sniper Elite III so I got

Hitman Absolution
Thief
Murdered: Soul Suspect

Looks like I'm set for a bit.

Thanks again


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> Woo Hoo I just got a PM from EK-AMD Never Settle saying I won !!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks so much EK and AMD


Grats! I just noticed that FB post this morning T_T
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> My loop, all parts from EK
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice. Love the Pepto Bismol coolant


----------



## afokke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> I'm having some trouble understand, what is the difference between the bridge/link parts and the terminals? can either system be used with the full cover video card blocks (EK-FC R9-290X in my case)? Do either require any additional parts?
> 
> Also, I would like to get the EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ-Plexi. Do I need BOTH the EK-UNI Holder AND the EK-UNI Pump Holder to mount it and the pump without drilling extra holes in my case? Do I need an X-res with the X-TOP or can I use any reservoir?


could someone help please


----------



## cstkl1

Gave up on delid for the moment. Going to continue with the hopes tge cpu still alive after all thr violence with a mallet


----------



## deafboy

Just realized I don't think I've actually been in here....

howdy


----------



## Hooded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> could someone help please


Bridge and Links were how EK was joining multiple GPU's in a serial or parallel loop.

The Link is the 90° adapter piece between the GPU Block and the Bridge.

Terminals are for the newer style of blocks out. They do not use a link piece to join the terminal to the GPU Block. It connects directly to the block.

Yes you will need both holders to mount pump with out drilling.


----------



## fireedo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=FIB=Goldberg*
> 
> Just check to see that there is no air in the system with the computer running tip it left and right back and forth see in there is any air comes out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if that top rad was full of air that would indeed mess up your cooling . Also made sure there is good water flow


this









after 2-3 hours of removing air in my loop now I get the performance, thanx

so my next question is EK-D5 Vario X-Res (Incl.Res) better than EK-DCP 4.0 PWM X-Res (Incl. Res) , I mean 1500 L/H vs 800 L/H for my current loop ( 2 Radiator 360 and 280 also M/B block. CPU block, VGA Block) ?

Will I get better performance if I change my current pump ( EK-DCP 4.0 PWM X-Res (Incl. Res) ) ?


----------



## Kipsofthemud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireedo*
> 
> this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after 2-3 hours of removing air in my loop now I get the performance, thanx
> 
> so my next question is EK-D5 Vario X-Res (Incl.Res) better than EK-DCP 4.0 PWM X-Res (Incl. Res) , I mean 1500 L/H vs 800 L/H for my current loop ( 2 Radiator 360 and 280 also M/B block. CPU block, VGA Block) ?
> 
> Will I get better performance if I change my current pump ( EK-DCP 4.0 PWM X-Res (Incl. Res) ) ?


In my opinion, you will.

According to restriction tests of the EK blocks - they perform well with lower L/h but perform even better with a better flow. (I think you can find those tests on the watercooling forum here)

2 rads, a motherboard block, cpu block and a GPU block is not THAT much restriction, but I think the upgrade could shave off a couple of degrees celcius.

Putting my D5's switch from stance 2 to 5 also gave me around 3 degrees lower temps, all EK blocks.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kipsofthemud*
> 
> Oh god I love EK design so much <3
> 
> Got a 2nd 290 'mostly' to be able to use an FC Bridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, very clean and loving the green
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> All EK blocks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I







every time I see that build

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> My loop, all parts from EK
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Stunning looking. Nice to see more builds with adventurous colors other than ROG themes..


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> every time I see that build


Thanks! That really means a lot.


----------



## ikem




----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now there is something you dont see every day. Well played sir!


----------



## derickwm

No matter how many times I see your build ikem, I never get bored of it.


----------



## afokke

all of the check compatibility list links for the ek fc bridges & links csq are broken, can someone tell me what I would need to use this ek-fc bridge dual parallel 3-slot csq plexi and if it incompatible with any water blocks (I want to use the ek-fc r9-290x - nickel (rev.2.0)) I was told I'd need a "link" to actually attach the bridge to the GPU blocks because the bridge doesn't attach directly? but all the "link" products on the product page are ek-fc link blank. I'm quite confused.

thanks


----------



## DtheM

Hi there,

That's the stuff you need for the blocks you want:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals.html

The CSQ Bridge was for the older blocks...

Alternatively you can get blocks like that if you really want to use the bridge you have:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-original-csq-nickel.html

Bridge + Link for older blocks -- Terminal for newer ones..

For the old bridge.. Every block comes with a link. You need to attach the link to the block and the bridge to the link. With the newer blocks you just remove the terminal on the card and replace it..

As the bridge in your description is a dual bridge you do not need any blanks if you use two cards.. If you use only one then you will need the fitting blank..


----------



## afokke

thanks







I was trying to figure out what I'd need to use the plexi bridge because I like that it's semi-translucent







but if it becoming outdated then better to use a terminal I guess. even though they are all solid black


----------



## marshymellows

Will this setup work?

Parts used are EK DCC pump and EK X RES 140.


----------



## DtheM

You should be using the inlet and outlet ports that EK wants you to use and the top port is not one of those.. Even if it would work it would be a bad idea as this setup would be quite noisy..


----------



## afokke

how does the EK-D5 X-TOP connect to the EK-UNI Holder D5 V2?


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DtheM*
> 
> You should be using the inlet and outlet ports that EK wants you to use and the top port is not one of those.. Even if it would work it would be a bad idea as this setup would be quite noisy..


It will not be loud, i will get a pipe to go down in the res so you dont get and bubbeling noise adn as long a the pump is only fed water it will be fine.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Will this setup work?
> 
> Parts used are EK DCC pump and EK X RES 140.


You can do this as long as you use the multi port top (which you have) just install an inner tube to the top to make sure the fluid doesn't splash when it returns. I have a similar setup.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> You can do this as long as you use the multi port top (which you have) just install an inner tube to the top to make sure the fluid doesn't splash when it returns. I have a similar setup.


----------



## Malik

delete


----------



## holeyguy

Im confused. Are you polishing the actual block itself or is it the top your polishing. Im gonna have to do this with my new loop


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holeyguy*
> 
> Im confused. Are you polishing the actual block itself or is it the top your polishing. Im gonna have to do this with my new loop


Polishing the top.

No idea what that acrylic piece over the jetplate is though...


----------



## Ragsters

He said "The New King". Could this be the new EK block?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> He said "The New King". Could this be the new EK block?


That's what I'm wondering as well... If it is, I had no idea EK was working in a new supremacy.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> That's what I'm wondering as well... If it is, I had no idea EK was working in a new supremacy.


I don't know how it could be anything else. I mean that acrylic jet plate has to be EK engineered to look so perfect!









Well...I guess they could sell those plates seperately to eliminate the negative talk about introducing different metals (aluminum?) to the loop.


----------



## failwheeldrive

It looks to me like there's still a standard jetplate underneath that acrylic piece. See that gray spot over the copper base? Could be wrong though. It may just be the acrylic piece in there reflecting light from the environment.

And I believe the jetplates have always been made of stainless steel, so no worries about mixing metals there









Agree though about that little piece... it certainly doesn't look like it was made with a dremel and hand tools


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> It looks to me like there's still a standard jetplate underneath that acrylic piece.


That was my thought too.


----------



## pdasterly

my supremacy cpu block came in today, which jet plate should i use, 4790k cpu


----------



## Costas

Just go with the EK recommended 1.0mm jetplate for socket 1150 chips.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Just go with the EK recommended 1.0mm jetplate for socket 1150 chips.


I swapped out jet plate, I used the thickest one in the package. Which backplate for the 4790K(socket 1150). Manual doesn't state which is which?

edit: nevermind, im just tired and sleepy. cant read


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> He said "The New King". Could this be the new EK block?


That would be outstanding news, the current Supremacy is sold out worldwide, or everywhere I know where to look, strange almost like they were all pulled from the shelves at once.

It's a conspiracy initiated by Derick himself no doubt.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> That would be outstanding news, the current Supremacy is sold out worldwide, or everywhere I know where to look, strange almost like they were all pulled from the shelves at once.
> 
> It's a conspiracy initiated by Derick himself no doubt.


sourced mine from canada(took less than week too ship). Came in today. dazmode


----------



## afokke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> That would be outstanding news, the current Supremacy is sold out worldwide, or everywhere I know where to look, strange almost like they were all pulled from the shelves at once.
> 
> It's a conspiracy initiated by Derick himself no doubt.


EK's e-shop says limited quantity? I wanted a nickel-plexi one (the NOT clean CSQ version) but if there's something new on the horizon then I can wait it out.


----------



## Nichismo

Sup guys

Im not really good at this stuff, but I felt like sharing a couple pictures from my rig that I liked, then cropped and touched em up.

They are still a little too dark for my preference but im not sure how to fix it without necessarily just raising the brightness level or contrast level. It tends to ruin the quality or crispness of the lines and such.

if anyone can take these further and perhaps make something better, id love to see


----------



## snef

do you have the original?

I can try to do somthing


----------



## TTheuns

I just saw the Z97X SOC Force blocks. Those full nickel ones are sooo beautiful.


Also, I came across a song on soundcloud, it is titled EK - The New King, released in 2012. Just sayin'


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> I just saw the Z97X SOC Force blocks. Those full nickel ones are sooo beautiful.
> 
> 
> Also, I came across a song on soundcloud, it is titled EK - The New King, released in 2012. Just sayin'


Agreed. Wow they're gorgeous!


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

Does anyone know where to buy the EK Supremacy Green Acrylic CPU Block? I like that color but it is out of stock at Frozen.

Would you guys recommend that CPU block?


----------



## MeanBruce

Beautiful symmetry, thank you Derick.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9292_zps6e57a753.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9290_zps70df2894.jpg.html


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paopawdecarabao*
> 
> Does anyone know where to buy the EK Supremacy Green Acrylic CPU Block? I like that color but it is out of stock at Frozen.
> 
> Would you guys recommend that CPU block?


Where are you located?


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Where are you located?


Los Angeles. CA


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paopawdecarabao*
> 
> Los Angeles. CA


Damn that's not near









I'm saying this because Dazmode in Canada has one in stock but shipping cost could be a show stopper to go in L.A.

Here's the link so you could check the shipping cost....EK Top Green Supremacy Clean CSQ

Your other option would be directly in the EK WebShop.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paopawdecarabao*
> 
> Los Angeles. CA


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20859/ex-blc-1494/EK_Supremacy_Replacement_Acrylic_Top_Clean_-_Green_EK-TOP_GREEN_-_Supremacy_Clean_CSQ.html?tl=g57c603s2258

You'll need the Supremacy block though. But you can easily change out the top itself. However, I wouldn't recommend it right now, since it seems EK has something up their sleeves in the next week or two with a replacement to the EK Supremacy. Basically all of the etailers/retailers have stopped stocking Supremacy's right now, so supply is scarce. And that usually happens when that product is going to be replaced.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Damn that's not near
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm saying this because Dazmode in Canada has one in stock but shipping cost could be a show stopper to go in L.A.
> 
> Here's the link so you could check the shipping cost....EK Top Green Supremacy Clean CSQ
> 
> Your other option would be directly in the EK WebShop.


FCPU has 5 in stock as of right now.

TL;DR: Derick is evil and needs to break EK's NDA. KK.


----------



## afokke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Beautiful symmetry, thank you Derick.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9292_zps6e57a753.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9290_zps70df2894.jpg.html


I'm guessing that is an X-RES attached to a pump? What product is it exactly and how is mounted?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Paopawdecarabao*
> 
> Los Angeles. CA
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20859/ex-blc-1494/EK_Supremacy_Replacement_Acrylic_Top_Clean_-_Green_EK-TOP_GREEN_-_Supremacy_Clean_CSQ.html?tl=g57c603s2258
> 
> You'll need the Supremacy block though. But you can easily change out the top itself. However, I wouldn't recommend it right now, since it seems EK has something up their sleeves in the next week or two with a replacement to the EK Supremacy. Basically all of the etailers/retailers have stopped stocking Supremacy's right now, so supply is scarce. And that usually happens when that product is going to be replaced.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Damn that's not near
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm saying this because Dazmode in Canada has one in stock but shipping cost could be a show stopper to go in L.A.
> 
> Here's the link so you could check the shipping cost....EK Top Green Supremacy Clean CSQ
> 
> Your other option would be directly in the EK WebShop.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> FCPU has 5 in stock as of right now.
> 
> TL;DR: Derick is evil and needs to break EK's NDA. KK.
Click to expand...

Oh! I think he wanted the replacement top my bad


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Damn that's not near
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm saying this because Dazmode in Canada has one in stock but shipping cost could be a show stopper to go in L.A.
> 
> Here's the link so you could check the shipping cost....EK Top Green Supremacy Clean CSQ
> 
> Your other option would be directly in the EK WebShop.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20859/ex-blc-1494/EK_Supremacy_Replacement_Acrylic_Top_Clean_-_Green_EK-TOP_GREEN_-_Supremacy_Clean_CSQ.html?tl=g57c603s2258
> 
> You'll need the Supremacy block though. But you can easily change out the top itself. However, I wouldn't recommend it right now, since it seems EK has something up their sleeves in the next week or two with a replacement to the EK Supremacy. Basically all of the etailers/retailers have stopped stocking Supremacy's right now, so supply is scarce. And that usually happens when that product is going to be replaced.
> 
> TL;DR: Derick is evil and needs to break EK's NDA. KK.
> FCPU has 5 in stock as of right now.


Thanks for the help. I saw the green acrylic at FCPU. But yeah I have to buy the block too which is gonna cost more rather than buying the block with the green acrylic on it already.

I guess I'll probably wait for a week or two just incase.

Thanks


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

Is there a green color EK reservoir?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paopawdecarabao*
> 
> Is there a green color EK reservoir?


No....unless EK comes with something new in the near future


----------



## MeanBruce

When can we order the new EK Supremacy block in the US.

...


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> I'm guessing that is an X-RES attached to a pump? What product is it exactly and how is mounted?


It's EK and CaseLabs working together to help us all is my only guess.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Damn that's not near
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm saying this because Dazmode in Canada has one in stock but shipping cost could be a show stopper to go in L.A.
> 
> Here's the link so you could check the shipping cost....EK Top Green Supremacy Clean CSQ
> 
> Your other option would be directly in the EK WebShop.


my order from dazmode took about 4 days, faster than frozen or ppcs. Bay Area


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Sup guys
> 
> Im not really good at this stuff, but I felt like sharing a couple pictures from my rig that I liked, then cropped and touched em up.
> 
> They are still a little too dark for my preference but im not sure how to fix it without necessarily just raising the brightness level or contrast level. It tends to ruin the quality or crispness of the lines and such.
> 
> if anyone can take these further and perhaps make something better, id love to see


Can you PM me the original photos?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> my order from dazmode took about 4 days, faster than frozen or ppcs. Bay Area


Indeed, DazMode is an awesome source in a crunch, in fact with the conversion some things are cheaper too


----------



## pdasterly

ordered aug 13 at night, block shipped on the 14th, received yesterday the 18th


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Can you PM me the original photos?
> Indeed, DazMode is an awesome source in a crunch, in fact with the conversion some things are cheaper too


'

How much is the shipping to US? If you don't mind.


----------



## Dhalgren65

Qty
Price
Total
ex-blc-1443
EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Clean Acetal (EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Acetal)
1
$70.99
$70.99

in and on!
yay!
Actual 1c drop over LTX A/N...
Yay!


----------



## pdasterly

16 bux


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> 16 bux


Daz is cheaper than PPCS? $24 on PPCS right


----------



## pdasterly

daz only place that has in stock


----------



## p33k

Cheers EK - got my t shirt from the survey yesterday!
I thought I saw something posted in here about a 10% coupon also... was it an either or...?


----------



## Ashihtaka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> I swapped out jet plate, I used the thickest one in the package. Which backplate for the 4790K(socket 1150). Manual doesn't state which is which?
> 
> edit: nevermind, im just tired and sleepy. cant read


Let us know what voltage and mhz OC you get with the supremacy on 4790k.
I was able to get 4.7 stable with 1.2v on my 4770k with supremacy.


----------



## Buehlar

Still loving my CSQ EK blocks!








When I defrosted and polished them up for the new build, all the nickle plating was still in pristine condition after 1 year of use.
Good job EK!


----------



## BranField

Does anyone have any more infor on the ek block for the 290x VaporX? ive been asking all over the place people either dont respond or know nothing about it. EK posted this a while ago, detailing that there would be a VaporX block in H1 Aug however i have not heard a dicky bird.

I want to give them my money but they appear to not want it lol


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BranField*
> 
> Does anyone have any more infor on the ek block for the 290x VaporX? ive been asking all over the place people either dont respond or know nothing about it. EK posted this a while ago, detailing that there would be a VaporX block in H1 Aug however i have not heard a dicky bird.
> 
> I want to give them my money but they appear to not want it lol


First thing, the release timeframe on the EK news posts don't always go as plan









They are also suppose to release the monoblock for the MSI Z97I and it's not there yet. Sometimes, they encounter fitment problems or the QC department reject the product...so those things could delay the final release.

The best is to ask @derickwm if he knows a bit more on this subject


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> First thing, the release timeframe on the EK news posts don't always go as plan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are also suppose to release the monoblock for the MSI Z97I and it's not there yet. Sometimes, they encounter fitment problems or the QC department reject the product...so those things could delay the final release.
> 
> The best is to ask @derickwm if he knows a bit more on this subject


yer, i assumed something went wrong with it and it got delayed but a bit of info would be nice lol (even a teaser pic







)

I shall send him a message later if he's not posted something when i get back from work.

I just want to get this puppy under water now as i have lost a bit of confidence in its air capabilities


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BranField*
> 
> yer, i assumed something went wrong with it and it got delayed but a bit of info would be nice lol (even a teaser pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> I shall send him a message later if he's not posted something when i get back from work.
> 
> I just want to get this puppy under water now as i have lost a bit of confidence in its air capabilities


I waited for my GTX780 WF3 waterblocks for almost 2 months so yes these things can happen


----------



## Asus11

just recieved an EK Block, box came tatty, all sealed looked to been open then resealed with another just slapped on top, and the reseller is claiming its 'new' not a happy bunny


----------



## Ardi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> just recieved an EK Block, box came tatty, all sealed looked to been open then resealed with another just slapped on top, and the reseller is claiming its 'new' not a happy bunny


Who is the reseller?


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> just recieved an EK Block, box came tatty, all sealed looked to been open then resealed with another just slapped on top, and the reseller is claiming its 'new' not a happy bunny


I had the same issue a couple months back, I contacted EK they said that if I have any issues they would still respond to any claims as I bought as new.


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ardi*
> 
> Who is the reseller?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> I had the same issue a couple months back, I contacted EK they said that if I have any issues they would still respond to any claims as I bought as new.


scan.co.uk.. it was brand new.. well meant to be brand new


----------



## Ardi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> scan.co.uk.. it was brand new.. well meant to be brand new


I hate it when some resellers pull crap like that.







!

Are they going to send you a replacement? If they don't, definitely contact ekwb support.


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ardi*
> 
> I hate it when some resellers pull crap like that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> Are they going to send you a replacement? If they don't, definitely contact ekwb support.


they keep saying its new.. the outer box has 2 previous seals open and the third seal.. the actual block has had the seal broken then another slapped on top..
box is also in bad condition

at the end of the day its not something I want to risk with a titan z..


----------



## cstkl1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> they keep saying its new.. the outer box has 2 previous seals open and the 3third seal.. the acutal block has had the seal broken then another slapped on top..
> box is also in bad condition
> 
> at the end of the day its not something I want to risk with a titan z..


Titan z block.. Sounds like a staff over there got excited n wanted to take a peek n most probably a selfie shot.

Return it.


----------



## Ardi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> they keep saying its new.. the outer box has 2 previous seals open and the third seal.. the actual block has had the seal broken then another slapped on top..
> box is also in bad condition
> 
> at the end of the day its not something I want to risk with a titan z..


I hear you man, you paid for a brand new block and you SHOULD get a brand new block. Do they let you return it? Could you buy the block from EKWB?


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ardi*
> 
> I hear you man, you paid for a brand new block and you SHOULD get a brand new block. Do they let you return it? Could you buy the block from EKWB?


EK are sold out, they will let me return it but not under the terms its damaged.. only under the terms that its 'unwanted' ... meaning im having to pay to send it back insured & tracked.

we'll see whats going to happen im waiting for a reply off them


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> they keep saying its new.. the outer box has 2 previous seals open and the third seal.. the actual block has had the seal broken then another slapped on top..
> box is also in bad condition
> 
> at the end of the day its not something I want to risk with a titan z..


If they broke the seal on the block itself I would say return it. I wouldn't care what they say, there is no reason for the seal of the block to be tampered with. In my case the block was still sealed so I didn't care but if it would have been opened I would have returned it.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> EK are sold out, they will let me return it but not under the terms its damaged.. only under the terms that its 'unwanted' ... meaning im having to pay to send it back insured & tracked.
> 
> we'll see whats going to happen im waiting for a reply off them


I would also inform EK about that. Since you said that the block seal has been altered, I don't think it's a "selfie" situation but something more deep than this. I mean, the seal on the box might pass (even if it would bug the hell out of me) but a broken block seal on a "new" unit is a no go and should be considered damaged or sold as refurb or used.

Also the seal on the static bag must have been altered too?


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I would also inform EK about that. Since you said that the block seal has been altered, I don't think it's a "selfie" situation but something more deep than this. I mean, the seal on the box might pass (even if it would bug the hell out of me) but a broken block seal on a "new" unit is a no go and should be considered damaged or sold as refurb or used.
> 
> Also the seal on the static bag must have been altered too?


this is the seal on the block itself



also theres 2 previous seals which are on the outside box ( 3 in total) .. that didn't bother me that much but when I see the EK seal messed with too on the block, not to mention the rip in the box aswell


----------



## inedenimadam

I am with akira749. That thing is NOT "BNIB." The suggestion to inform EK might light a fire under the reseller to get your return/exchange/refund processed quicker, and might stop them from pulling crap like this again.

EK has tamper evident stickers for a reason.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Blocks don't go off if the seal is broken. Just because there are some broken seals under the intact one doesn't mean anything ominous. Maybe EK was just doing some last minute quality control checking out something. Or are you suggesting the retailer opened the item, acquired new seals, and resealed it.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Blocks don't go off if the seal is broken. Just because there are some broken seals under the intact one doesn't mean anything ominous. Maybe EK was just don't some last minute quality control checking out something. Or are you suggesting the retailer opened the item, acquired new seals, and resealed it.


Good point. I guess the reseller probably does not have "EK tamper evident" seals.


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Blocks don't go off if the seal is broken. Just because there are some broken seals under the intact one doesn't mean anything ominous. Maybe EK was just doing some last minute quality control checking out something. Or are you suggesting the retailer opened the item, acquired new seals, and resealed it.


to be honest, you buy a new product you don't expect it to come like its been used as pass the parcel
if I bought it as a customer return then I understand, but I bought it under the expectation its brand new, its not like its a cheap block either


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> to be honest, you buy a new product you don't expect it to come like its been used as pass the parcel
> if I bought it as a customer return then I understand, but I bought it under the expectation its brand new, its not like its a cheap block either


I watched an unboxing today that hit home with this comment.


----------



## Ardi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> to be honest, you buy a new product you don't expect it to come like its been used as pass the parcel
> if I bought it as a customer return then I understand, but I bought it under the expectation its brand new, its not like its a cheap block either


You are definitely right. One of the things I really like about EKWB is their packaging. Like their products it is a work of art. I highly doubt they would do such crappy job of putting seals on top of each other. Contact EKWB and have them verify this. I'm sure they'll take care of you. Please, keep us updated.


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ardi*
> 
> You are definitely right. One of the things I really like about EKWB is their packaging. Like their products it is a work of art. I highly doubt they would do such crappy job of putting seals on top of each other. Contact EKWB and have them verify this. I'm sure they'll take care of you. Please, keep us updated.


just an update, ordered another it came today, same packaging not as bad though, sealed broken again but hey im not moaning no more & QC on block looks no good, sent everything back to the reseller for refund,
ordered an evga hydro copper block instead from EVGA came out cheaper & I would also expect EVGA to have higher quality control standards even though it is made by EK, match the evga titan z


----------



## Ardi

I own two of these blocks. Both of my blocks had two or three wrong size stand offs. I contacted EKWB about the issue. Now, there's a possibility that EKWB contacted the resellers, sent them new seals, and asked them to take out the blocks, correct the issues with the stand offs and put them back in the packaging.

Anyway, I'm glad you got it resolved.


----------



## afokke

is the EK-FC-R9-290X black backplate available anywhere? all I see are either different color or for Lightning/Matrix/DC II etc.


----------



## Pheozero

So.... when is the new Supremacy coming out? I want a new CPU block.


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> is the EK-FC-R9-290X black backplate available anywhere? all I see are either different color or for Lightning/Matrix/DC II etc.


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-backplates/amd-radeon-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-backplate-black.html


----------



## afokke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-backplates/amd-radeon-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-backplate-black.html


their own e-shop, of course







I guess I could get the ek supremacy nickel-plexi from there too, even though they have all disappeared from frozencpu and performace-pcs.


----------



## pdasterly

some thoughts?


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> some thoughts?


Looks good! I couldn't make up my mind on whether to go with the red or black primochill fittings, but you have helped me decide. That red looks great.


----------



## afokke

so with all of this talk about new ekwb blocks coming soon, would it still be a good idea to get a few ek-fc r9-290x *original csq* blocks? to then use with a csq bridge.


----------



## snef

yes,
im sure they don't stop CSQ design


----------



## Domiro

Received my PE 360 and it smells .. pleasantly peachy.


----------



## pathfindercod

All my EK parts passed my sniff test...


----------



## failwheeldrive

Can't believe EK decided it was a good idea to EOL clean csq replacement tops... I just went to buy some plexi tops to replace the clean acetal tops in my build, only to find out they are out of stock everywhere and no longer being made. I know they are discontinuing the Supremacy, but they still make tops for the Supreme HF, a block that was discontinued years ago. So I'm forced to buy a second Supremacy if I want to go plexi now.


----------



## afokke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Can't believe EK decided it was a good idea to EOL clean csq replacement tops... I just went to buy some plexi tops to replace the clean acetal tops in my build, only to find out they are out of stock everywhere and no longer being made. I know they are discontinuing the Supremacy, but they still make tops for the Supreme HF, a block that was discontinued years ago. So I'm forced to buy a second Supremacy if I want to go plexi now.


by "tops" do you mean pump tops or something else?

I'm considering the Bitspower Summit CPU block over the Supremacy now...because the Supremacy will soon be no more.


----------



## Tunz

Any idea what they will be replacing the supremacy with? I was going to purchase all my parts next week, but now I don't think that's going to be possible.


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

Guys I need your suggestions on what res I need for my MCP35X.

Do I need to replace my pump top and get the 140 x res top?

and get his? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17537/ex-pmp-213/EK_DDC_X-RES_Top_140_-_Acetal_CSQ_-Laing_DDC_Swiftech_MCP350355_EK-DDC_X-RES_140_CSQ_-_Acetal.html?tl=g57c595s1937

or just the reservoir?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_659&products_id=35997

I want the reservoir sit flush on the top like the res/pump combo.

I don't want the res separated to the pump.

Also is the EK heat sink good for the MCP35X or the swiftech heatsink?


----------



## akira749

Guys just give them a few more time.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Can't believe EK decided it was a good idea to EOL clean csq replacement tops... I just went to buy some plexi tops to replace the clean acetal tops in my build, only to find out they are out of stock everywhere and no longer being made. I know they are discontinuing the Supremacy, but they still make tops for the Supreme HF, a block that was discontinued years ago. So I'm forced to buy a second Supremacy if I want to go plexi now.


As for the tops, like you said they still make replacement tops for the Supreme HF. The replacement tops for the Supremacy might only be out of stock and unavailable until the new soon to be release replacement CPU block.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> I'm considering the Bitspower Summit CPU block over the Supremacy now...because the Supremacy will soon be no more.


The Supremacy might be "no more" but it doesn't mean that EK won't do CPU blocks anymore.....it's EK after all







They will replace it like the Supremacy replaced the Supreme HF









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Any idea what they will be replacing the supremacy with? I was going to purchase all my parts next week, but now I don't think that's going to be possible.


I'm in the same boat as you....I'm giving them a little time and I can only suggest you do the same....it might be worth the wait


----------



## pathfindercod

Thank you EK for 16mm acrylic compression fittings!! I love these things so far. Have helped me come closer to finish my build ode to my final vision.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I'm in the same boat as you....I'm giving them a little time and I can only suggest you do the same....it might be worth the wait


Yeah I'll wait a little bit. Although it would be a lot easier if I knew what I was waiting for.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Guys just give them a few more time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the tops, like you said they still make replacement tops for the Supreme HF. The replacement tops for the Supremacy might only be out of stock and unavailable until the new soon to be release replacement CPU block.
> The Supremacy might be "no more" but it doesn't mean that EK won't do CPU blocks anymore.....it's EK after all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They will replace it like the Supremacy replaced the Supreme HF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in the same boat as you....I'm giving them a little time and I can only suggest you do the same....it might be worth the wait


Check out the web store: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/block-spare-parts/tops/plexi-acrylic/cpu/top-plexi-supremacy-clean-csq.html

It's EOL







I contacted PPC's to make sure, and they confirmed it. They said they asked EK to continue making them but they discontinued it.

I suppose there's a chance that the new block's tops will be compatible with the original Supremacy. Would be great if that's the case... but my build will probably be done by the time the new block and tops are out anyway lol.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Check out the web store: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/block-spare-parts/tops/plexi-acrylic/cpu/top-plexi-supremacy-clean-csq.html
> 
> It's EOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I contacted PPC's to make sure, and they confirmed it. They said they asked EK to continue making them but they discontinued it.


This could probably be because the next cpu block will be compatible with the Supremacy and a new line of replacement tops will be available. But it's sadly only my guess.









When @derickwm hit the forum next time maybe he will be able to help with this situation.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> This could probably be because the next cpu block will be compatible with the Supremacy and a new line of replacement tops will be available. But it's sadly only my guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When @derickwm hit the forum next time maybe he will be able to help with this situation.


Yeah I edited my post with that thought right before you replied







I hope that's the case. If Malik's ( now deleted) pics were an indication the tops do look very similar.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Yeah I edited my post with that thought right before you replied
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope that's the case. If Malik's ( now deleted) pics were an indication the tops do look very similar.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Check out the web store: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/block-spare-parts/tops/plexi-acrylic/cpu/top-plexi-supremacy-clean-csq.html
> 
> It's EOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I contacted PPC's to make sure, and they confirmed it. They said they asked EK to continue making them but they discontinued it.
> 
> I suppose there's a chance that the new block's tops will be compatible with the original Supremacy. Would be great if that's the case... but my build will probably be done by the time the new block and tops are out anyway lol.


Be patient gents - great things to come...


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Be patient gents - great things to come...


Awesome, thanks James









Taking that as confirmation I'll be able to switch to plexi soon


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Be patient gents - great things to come...


How do you know so much?


----------



## gdubc

Because he is a part of The Chosen Ones.


----------



## VSG

Worth the wait in my opinion too!


----------



## Red1776

The Holodeck VI's R290X's has been officially EK'd

EK-FC-R290X Rev 2.0


----------



## Jameswalt1

Build log @Red1776?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Build log @Red1776?


Yep,

I was on life support a few weeks ago so I am trying to catch up, but these are the latest.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1473361/amd-high-performance-project-by-red1776/420


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Yep,
> 
> I was on life support a few weeks ago so I am trying to catch up, but these are the latest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1473361/amd-high-performance-project-by-red1776/420


Uhhhhh.... I assume you're better now....









Thanks!


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Yep,
> 
> I was on life support a few weeks ago so I am trying to catch up, but these are the latest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1473361/amd-high-performance-project-by-red1776/420
> 
> 
> 
> Uhhhhh.... I assume you're better now....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
Click to expand...

Yeah it's a long recovery but it gets better by the day. I had the same thing that took Jim Henson out, it was a close call, but staying positive, it makes you appreciate people and things a bit more.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Yeah it's a long recovery but it gets better by the day. I had the same thing that took Jim Henson out, it was a close call, but staying positive, it makes you appreciate people and things a bit more.


Scary stuff... glad you're recovering. Nice build btw.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Yeah it's a long recovery but it gets better by the day. I had the same thing that took Jim Henson out, it was a close call, but staying positive, it makes you appreciate people and things a bit more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary stuff... glad you're recovering. Nice build btw.
Click to expand...

 Thanks FWD


----------



## Friction

My first purchase for my future custom water cooling loop - EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ Copper Acetal CPU Block.

Damn this thing is gorgeous!



Bad lighting.


----------



## szeged

ek hasnt updated their facebook in a while and all reps have gone silent


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ek hasnt updated their facebook in a while and all reps have gone silent


I know i'm still waiting for a reply from Derick and it's been a week now


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ek hasnt updated their facebook in a while and all reps have gone silent


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I know i'm still waiting for a reply from Derick and it's been a week now


The calm before the storm...


----------



## szeged

lol









im excited for the new blocks but i wont be getting one myself, this year the new car is getting all the funds









except for the 5960x...and sli maxwell flagship gpus....and the rampage 5 extreme....besides all that...the car is getting the funds.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im excited for the new blocks but i wont be getting one myself, this year the new car is getting all the funds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> except for the 5960x...and sli maxwell flagship gpus....and the rampage 5 extreme....besides all that...the car is getting the funds.


Pfft, I'd spend more on the rig than the car. Someone can crash into your car and ruin it at a moment's notice. But with a computer, you have all da powah in making sure it works !


----------



## szeged

if someone crashes into my car and kills it, they get to pay for a new one


----------



## doctakedooty

Ek are releasing a new block style


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Ek are releasing a new block style


From the rumors yes
















And maybe more...stay tuned


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> From the rumors yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And maybe more...stay tuned


The teasing is hurting my soul right now...


----------



## Raul-7

They need to bring this back.


----------



## iBored

Ooo yes. Bring that sexy back!


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im excited for the new blocks but i wont be getting one myself, this year the new car is getting all the funds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> except for the 5960x...and sli maxwell flagship gpus....and the rampage 5 extreme....besides all that...the car is getting the funds.


Whats left of the rig to change?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Pfft, I'd spend more on the rig than the car. Someone can crash into your car and ruin it at a moment's notice. But with a computer, you have all da powah in making sure it works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


You can have a leak in ya rig and nobody will pay you squat for damges


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> 
> 
> They need to bring this back.


The nickel plated mounted plate looks good. Not sure if I have seen that before. I thought they were all black. Block could use a good polish though.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The nickel plated mounted plate looks good. Not sure if I have seen that before. I thought they were all black. Block could use a good polish though.


EK sells it, but I got mine custom plated because at the time I didn't know they sold them. Polish as in with Novus 2? Or using fine grit sandpaper?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> EK sells it, but I got mine custom plated because at the time I didn't know they sold them. Polish as in with Novus 2? Or using fine grit sandpaper?


Both. Check out lowfat's polishing guide (link in his sig.) He's the resident polishing master here on ocn. And everywhere else for that matter lol.


----------



## lowfat

Like dis.


----------



## ozzy1925

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/supremacy-evo.html

soon ™


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/supremacy-evo.html
> 
> soon


Well that just goes to show the internet can't be underestimated!


----------



## Pheozero

11 hours and counting


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> 11 hours and counting


Where did you get that time from?


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Where did you get that time from?


Facebook


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Facebook


Hmmm the one they are showing on facebook (Elite model?) hopefully will be available in Clean CSQ also. I really like the all nickel version.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Well I was hoping for the block itself to be redesigned but I guess it's just the jetplate and mounting mechanism


----------



## Avonosac

Nice looking block.


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

Is it the CPU block only that will be replaced with a new line?


----------



## afokke

I will happily lap this up if they will have one of those CSQ-plexi versions.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> I will happily lap this up if they will have one of those CSQ-plexi versions.


They will have these in all the difference tops, Clear, Nickel, Copper, Etc , along with clean CSQ and CSQ according to there FB Rep!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> They will have these in all the difference tops, Clear, Nickel, Copper, Etc , along with clean CSQ and CSQ according to there FB Rep!


There's also another special color...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> There's also another special color...


Lol.... Just when you think the cats out of the bag, someone has to tease you with more excitement!

Question tho, do you happen to know if products like the EK-FB ASUS M6I will be getting "Supremacy Evo" Treatment with innards and this mystery new color you speak of!? (I'm about to order one) for my Impact.... ugh tomorrow needs to come faster!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> There's also another special color...


I'm going to go out and take a wild guess and say the special color will be Full White!


----------



## Panther Al

My money is on Gold...


----------



## szeged

my guess is a copper based block with non anodized aluminum water channels, guaranteed to turn heads...away from it in shame.


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

There gonna go with the Pink block and flower accents rather than the circle design for their special edition.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> My money is on Gold...


They already have gold!


----------



## szeged

my guess is probably a all white block since white is the new black in the mod world, hopefully that trend will burn itself out fast though.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> my guess is probably a all white block since white is the new black in the mod world, hopefully that trend will burn itself out fast though.


Well as long as they have matching Mosfets , Ram Blocks, and most importantly GPU Blocks and Backplates , I'm all for it!

Now If only Mobo and GPU venders can hope on that train with white PCB's!


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> my guess is probably a all white block since white is the new black in the mod world, hopefully that trend will burn itself out fast though.


Seriously dude? White is classy







I've been asking for a white Supremacy for the better part of a year.


----------



## szeged

idk, white went from being a every now and then build that made me go " wow thats cool" to an overused build theme that makes me go " oh look another one..."


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> idk, white went from being a every now and then build that made me go " wow thats cool" to an overused build theme that makes me go " oh look another one..."


By that logic black should be way more played out though, right? Look at all the matte black chassis running acetal blocks









I'll never get tired of seeing this


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> By that logic black should be way more played out though, right? Look at all the matte black chassis running acetal blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll never get tired of seeing this


black is way more overdone than white i agree, but for some reason white just seems like a fad that exploded and needs to die out already

this is all my opinion of course.


----------



## failwheeldrive

I see where you're coming from. For the most part though, people are pretty limited in their choices for color schemes. It's a lot easier to pull off a predominately neutral color scheme like white or black than it is to go the Hanoverfist route and use bright greens, reds or oranges as a primary build color. So if someone doesn't want to use black, they're usually forced to go with white.

Plus white acetal looks amazing imo... I miss my 780 HOFs with EK blocks.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

white has its advantages(in some places. like it looks hella cool under a blacklight..I like white pcb, but aside from that everything else in white looks bad)

I don't particularly like it but I am being forced towards it for my next build

I was just thinking about this earlier.

really red is the most played out ever and anything away from that is good..

I wish there were some blue high performance boards


----------



## failwheeldrive

Yeah me too. I hate that Asus switched to gold for their WS boards. I'm leaning towards x79 for my next build just so I can use a p9x79-e WS. Those boards looked amazing.


----------



## Raul-7

It's because black is easier to achieve.

An all white build requires the case be powdercoated or buy a white case. White blocks, white fittings, and white backplate which are all hard to find.


----------



## afokke

I think white makes color pop out more tho.

I bought one of the ASUS Sabertooth boards just so I could paint the "thermal armor" white (I messed up though, hand swayed for the slightest instant and one corner has a thicker coat than the rest of the board







it's plasti dip tho, will it be easy to peel off and reapply?). Couple that with a white case, maybe some white sleeved power cables and a splash of Mayhems Pastel...


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> It's because black is easier to achieve.
> 
> An all white build requires the case be powdercoated or buy a white case. White blocks, white fittings, and white backplate which are all hard to find.


\
not even then, I just don't like white paint. I like white acetal and PCB though

maybe plastidip, but I don't like white glossy paint in pc. or white plastic parts

I dunno I am struggling to remove white from my build... I really just have to wait for my case to show up before I can make any decisions.


----------



## cstkl1

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/08/26/cpu-block-rotation-definition/

Evo nickel acylic csq clean spotted


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cstkl1*
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/08/26/cpu-block-rotation-definition/
> 
> Evo nickel acylic csq clean spotted


Where? I don't see it.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Where? I don't see it.


2nd and 4th pic down. If you look closely you can see the evo logo at the top of the block.


----------



## gdubc

That and they say "for the ek supremacy EVO it would look like this" right above the pic.


----------



## Dhalgren65

I for one(and probably the _only_)vote ORANGE!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> 2nd and 4th pic down. If you look closely you can see the evo logo at the top of the block.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> That and they say "for the ek supremacy EVO it would look like this" right above the pic.


I was hoping to see something that looks a little different.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I was hoping to see something that looks a little different.


me too


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> I'll never get tired of seeing this


That is rather gorgeous.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dhalgren65*
> 
> I for one(and probably the _only_)vote ORANGE!


That would be interesting... And would hopefully match my z87x-oc!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> idk, white went from being a every now and then build that made me go " wow thats cool" to an overused build theme that makes me go " oh look another one..."


Just so long as that sickly OEM beige we were stuck with for ao long stays in the grave.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

LOL no I want to bring OEM beige/eggshell back

just for the hate

get an 8core x99 and put it in a classic beige case

full custom loop and everything...

God I want to give it a go now xD


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dhalgren65*
> 
> I for one(and probably the only)vote ORANGE!
> 
> 
> 
> That would be interesting... And would hopefully match my z87x-oc!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> idk, white went from being a every now and then build that made me go " wow thats cool" to an overused build theme that makes me go " oh look another one..."
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just so long as that sickly OEM beige we were stuck with for ao long stays in the grave.
Click to expand...

This exchange has caught my attention

Dhalgren, not the only one:

My previous build 4 x HD 7970



I like white:

My current build in progress 4 x R290X



Quote:tatmMRKIV


> LOL no I want to bring OEM beige/eggshell back
> 
> just for the hate
> 
> get an 8core x99 and put it in a classic beige case
> 
> full custom loop and everything...
> 
> God I want to give it a go now xD


Although you could call it 'sleeper' all wrapped up in a computer white case from the 90's


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Lol no I am waiting on a broken IBM 5100 to turn up on ebay to make a "sleeper" with


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Lol no I am waiting on a broken IBM 5100 to turn up on ebay to make a "sleeper" with


 Hehe,

when I was young I stuck a rebuilt tricked out 396 CID (612 HP) Vette motor in a old Chevy II before I restored it and surprised a lot of people at the lights....

This reminds me of that....in Geek terms


----------



## Panther Al

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Hehe,
> 
> when I was young I stuck a rebuilt tricked out 396 CID (612 HP) Vette motor in a old Chevy II before I restored it and surprised a lot of people at the lights....
> This reminds me of that....in Geek terms


*laughs* There is sleepers, and then there is sleepers. Old friend of mine back in College, took a 87 (I think?) Yugo, and stuck a small block V8 in the front of it. Called it his ATM machine, every time he needed money, he would challenge mustangs and vette's with it. Only did about 7, 8 runs, usually by the tenth he would start breaking things in the drive train (He did make it rear wheel drive).


----------



## snef

Look at this piece of art I received in my mail box


received this little box with my name on it, just cant wait to open it to see the new block


so excited when I saw the "EK-Supremacy EVO White Edition" on the box


a little close-up to the logo, I just like the brushed aluminum


----------



## Pheozero

Oh my. That block is beautiful.

That means NDA is up I guess? Alright boys, lay the cardsblocks on the table


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Although you could call it 'sleeper' all wrapped up in a computer white case from the 90's


lol

Did this with a mid range gaming build. Check the sig.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

haha my buddy built a sleeper but it didn't do a good job at sleeping with the exhaust sticking out the hood xD
he took a 90s civic and turbod it.. dropped in a f22 engine..
he was friends with the local civic drag racing king and got the guy to back him

basically the guy bet money on my friend and they mad esom


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Oh my. That block is beautiful.
> 
> That means NDA is up I guess? Alright boys, lay the cardsblocks on the table


Haha yeah I thought that, got confused by CEST and CET, technically its in an hour


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


hahaha love this one James


----------



## Jeronbernal

Block looks great, curious to what that weird looking jet plate is for. I'm assuming it's better performance wise, and gives them more options for different cpu's.

Hope to see more pics soon


----------



## Pheozero

Makes me wonder if Hanoverfist got a green colored block


----------



## iBored

Questions!
Will the nickel mounting plate (and new jet plates) be sold individually?
AND
Will they be compatible with the previous supremacy?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

damn stren where's your review? I wanna go to bed


----------



## Jakusonfire

Hmmmm, maybe they shouldn't have been so quick to EOL the supremacy.

I don't understand how they could realistically expect as much as 2C given how close most tests are these days.


----------



## 4zp1r1na

Good good, a review, let's see how does it against the old supremacy....

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/08/27/ek-supremacy-evo/

What? That's unexpected :/

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.


----------



## King4x4

WTB!


----------



## Egami

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14864210299/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14864384517/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/15027943976/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14864279460/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/15047888701/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14864347968/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14864208829/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14864383087/


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14864210299/
> 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14864384517/
> 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/15027943976/
> 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14864279460/
> 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/15047888701/
> 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14864347968/
> 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14864208829/
> 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14864383087/


Great pictures


----------



## King4x4

What are the major changes to the block by the way?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> What are the major changes to the block by the way?


The main thing seems to be the a modular internal flow path unit. It seems like there may be different ones made available so that not only the restriction plate can be changed but also the way flow is handled and distributed internally.

That's what I took away from Strens review and the EK website at least.

If that is correct then at the least its an interesting idea and something new and unique. If it doesn't seem to live up to the marketing just yet.


----------



## timmsy

So quick question...

I may upgrade my D5 with XSPC top and seperate tube res to an EK-D5 X-Res 100 top.

Question is can you use the top port on the standard EK res as an input or does it have to be both in and out on the actual pump top at the side?


----------



## Malik




----------



## Kimir

Looking good, so much tease for something not fundamentally different _externally_ (the box posts we've seen earlier).


----------



## failwheeldrive

Anybody have an idea for when these will hit retailers? I know they're up on the EK eshop, but I'd rather buy stateside.


----------



## lowfat

No difference in aesthetics = I have no reason to buy.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> No difference in aesthetics = I have no reason to buy.


To be fair, there are new tops available. But yeah, I see no real reason why someone with a Supremacy should upgrade to the Evo unless they're switching to a different version. Only reason I'll be buying one is I can't get a plexi top for my Supremacy anymore.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_971_498_490&zenid=8ac4bbf673dc918531b5d61db008565a

I want to buy a non evo I guess

its actually a downgrade from my dtsniper... what the hell

also I can't have low flow in my system is why


----------



## failwheeldrive

Meh, I bought one a couple hours ago to try out. At least I'll get to compare it to the Supremacy.


----------



## VSG

I did an overview and some tests as well: http://www.overclock.net/t/1509787/my-review-of-the-ek-supremacy-evo/0_50


----------



## Egami

On the good side it's good that the new stuff is compatible looks-wise with the "old" / other EK products. Just imagine the amount of crying if it wasn't...
Also I at least have to rep to a company that keeps pushing the envelope and developing their products despite already sitting on one of the best (if not the best) blocks out there.


----------



## snef

and a Black and white


----------



## afokke

very nice to know that fcpu and performance-pcs have them in stock already


----------



## szeged

Are temperatures within 1/2c of the old blocks? Or is this actually worth the money to "upgrade" to.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Are temperatures within 1/2c of the old blocks? Or is this actually worth the money to "upgrade" to.


Wait and see how much the conversion kits are priced at.


----------



## szeged

Idc about the looks, the word evo on the side won't make me lose sleep lol. What will make me upset is knowing if I could have dropped another 5-10c off my 5960x during load.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Idc about the looks, the word evo on the side won't make me lose sleep lol. What will make me upset is knowing if I could have dropped another 5-10c off my 5960x during load.


Why are you bothered about benching under water now that you are set up for LN2 again?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Why are you bothered about benching under water now that you are set up for LN2 again?


24/7 use also


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Idc about the looks, the word evo on the side won't make me lose sleep lol. What will make me upset is knowing if I could have dropped another 5-10c off my 5960x during load.


I would be amazed given how refined CPU block designs have been that you would ever see that drop on such a minor change. To drop that much would take a whole new architecture or technology for the water block. Changing bow won't do much more than could have been acheived with Indigo Xtreme to be honest.


----------



## szeged

Time to make my own graphene block.


----------



## NE0XY

Hi,

I recently finished a CaseLabs SMA8 build (using an EK monoblock for the Ramapge IV Black Edition, etc.) I'm using the EK UV Blue coolant but it's no longer reacting to the uv light. It only "glowed" for about 4 days now nothing is happening under uv. What could be the problem?


----------



## VSG

UV effect dies off soon with most coolants unfortunately.

FYI, the conversion kits for the Supremacy Evo are already out on the EK webstore:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-upgrade-kit-plexi.html

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-upgrade-kit-acetal.html


----------



## Hanoverfist

Some Evo photos..

http://s1325.photobucket.com/user/markfry21/media/Green Manalishi/IMG_0308_zpse978ba47.jpg.html

http://s1325.photobucket.com/user/markfry21/media/Green Manalishi/IMG_0248_zpsf689e99e.jpg.html

http://s1325.photobucket.com/user/markfry21/media/Green Manalishi/IMG_0272_zpse820a2c3.jpg.html

http://s1325.photobucket.com/user/markfry21/media/Green Manalishi/IMG_0275_zps5dfa0a9b.jpg.html


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> UV effect dies off soon with most coolants unfortunately.
> 
> FYI, the conversion kits for the Supremacy Evo are already out on the EK webstore:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-upgrade-kit-plexi.html
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-upgrade-kit-acetal.html


Really? That sucks...
But 4 days is a bit on the short side right? Is there any that lasts longer?


----------



## VSG

I am not a big UV fan so perhaps others might help. Post in the general watercooling thread also.

Having said that, I present some extremely ironic pictures now:


----------



## tatmMRKIV

how are those clear fluids with UVblue in them?
same story?

Also on the topic those aurora 2 coolants good? Or should I avoid it?


----------



## Martyfish78

I think Aurora2 can be used for 24/7, but u must have cylindric res,powerfull pump,cpu+gpu block which pass test + no place where fluid can stain..


----------



## VSG

Aurora is definitely only for a simple loop- even with the new revision. You can get more info in the Mayhems thread.


----------



## Martyfish78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Aurora is definitely only for a simple loop


simple means just cpu??


----------



## VSG

Not necessarily, but as I said it is a topic better suited for the Mayhems thread


----------



## snef

some pics of white EVO on a White Armor Motherboard


----------



## tatmMRKIV

so not a white mobo....
reference z97OCF snow edition


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> so not a white mobo....
> reference z97OCF snow edition


In fact, the block is not white, its nickel, the top is white acetal

For z97 OCF Snow,
This board is not white, look at pics from computex , they painted it

The only new whiite pcb board is Asus Sabranco


----------



## tatmMRKIV

yeah I know.
but its just a mobo cover really. for yours though not even mobo

its really nothing personal those glossyish white plastic covers just look bad to me


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> yeah I know.
> but its just a mobo cover really. for yours though not even mobo
> 
> its really nothing personal those glossyish white plastic covers just look bad to me


Youre right, i fixed it


----------



## BranField

btw guys i just got a comment back from a post i made on EK's facebook pic saying that there should be a sneak peek of the 290x vapor-x block either later today or tomorrow.


----------



## MeanBruce

Picked up a Nickel Plexi EVO today at PPCS, love it so much, and some of my enthusiast friends are already warning me about EK Nickel/Chrome ionization. Oh come on guys, really?

Almost went with Copper Plexi but everyone is going for the "clean look" recently so who am I to argue.









There's nothing to worry about right? I'm using EK clear coolant and silver plated Monsoon fittings. Copper in the rad of course.

And so hoping stren's numbers are somehow skewed as false negatives, cuz I really want to love this new EVO block and the direction EK is headed.










http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9439_zpse69e23c7.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9440_zps5649cc5f.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9442_zpsc7fab11f.jpg.html


----------



## MeanBruce

Driving the chassis mod home from PPCS, they did an outstanding job, big shout out to Jeremy, thanks man I appreciate all your help.









The D5 will slip down inside the cutout cabling from the lower compartment, with the EK X-TOP res featured in the upper compartment windows on front top and both sides.

70mm cutout leaves room to line the inner diameter with CaseLabs U-Channel grommet and still room for the 58mm D5 to play around isolated and decoupled from the hard chassis, with 0.5inch Sorbothane hemispheres.

The solid white EVO looks nice, but I'm going with two white LEDs mounted in the Nickel Plexi instead.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9394_zpsee0feb12.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9290_zpsb972bc51.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9396_zps512a36ea.jpg.html


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some pics of white EVO on a White Armor Motherboard


Those LED holes on the side are quite intriguing. I didn't think those blocks were transparent enough for light to shine through. If anyone had pictures of an illuminated one, I'd love to see it.


----------



## suwit hrc thai

IN WIN TOU "THE DIAMOND FUR


----------



## tatmMRKIV

yeah I wasn't blowing 1500 on that case

no sponsors here


----------



## suwit hrc thai




----------



## Sir Slappy

I have a question for everybody. Does the inlet port on the EK D5 X-RES 140 have to be used? I mean, If I was to purchase an additional EK-RES X3-Multiport Top for the top of the reservoir could I then use that for the inlet port instead of the inlet port located directly by the pump? So the outlet port will be at the base where the D5 pump is located and the inlet port will be located at the top of the reservoir? Thanks for any input!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Slappy*
> 
> I have a question for everybody. Does the inlet port on the EK D5 X-RES 140 have to be used? I mean, If I was to purchase an additional EK-RES X3-Multiport Top for the top of the reservoir could I then use that for the inlet port instead of the inlet port located directly by the pump? So the outlet port will be at the base where the D5 pump is located and the inlet port will be located at the top of the reservoir? Thanks for any input!


Of course, that is what the multi port top is for. Just get the down tube to go with it.
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-res-x3-series/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm.html


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Those LED holes on the side are quite intriguing. I didn't think those blocks were transparent enough for light to shine through. If anyone had pictures of an illuminated one, I'd love to see it.


I will try today and take some pics and post it here


----------



## timmsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Slappy*
> 
> I have a question for everybody. Does the inlet port on the EK D5 X-RES 140 have to be used? I mean, If I was to purchase an additional EK-RES X3-Multiport Top for the top of the reservoir could I then use that for the inlet port instead of the inlet port located directly by the pump? So the outlet port will be at the base where the D5 pump is located and the inlet port will be located at the top of the reservoir? Thanks for any input!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Of course, that is what the multi port top is for. Just get the down tube to go with it.
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-res-x3-series/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm.html


Just what i need to know









already got the multi port top and tube but was looking to upgrade to the X-Res from my current seperates setup


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timmsy*
> 
> Just what i need to know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> already got the multi port top and tube but was looking to upgrade to the X-Res from my current seperates setup


Snef''s Bloody Angel build uses the multiport top setup as well, it you want to see pictures of how it will look.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1469789/build-log-snefs-bloody-angel/100


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> yeah I wasn't blowing 1500 on that case


I'm with you on that one... But it is one of the smexiest ones I've seen out there.


----------



## failwheeldrive

This might be a dumb question, but I'll ask anyway. Anyone know if the current monarch heatspreaders and water blocks will be compatible with DDR4?


----------



## snef

someone know where is Derickwm?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I'm with you on that one... But it is one of the smexiest ones I've seen out there.


don't get me wrong I wanted to, but it didn't have the radiator room for my next build and the kingsize h-frame was the only one with close to enough rad room and it was just too much for what it was at the end of the day

I dunno my PC case is waaay better IMO but it could be debated

like if it was 800$ or 1000 , I'd probably have gotten it but that was the 1500$ one so not happening

but I am also trying to get off the red and black themes, so in the end it just was, NOT happening

the tou just didn't fit my build


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> This might be a dumb question, but I'll ask anyway. Anyone know if the current monarch heatspreaders and water blocks will be compatible with DDR4?


I can't really imagine it not fitting, unless they used thicker PCB

Depends I suppose one what capacity 4gb sticks will fit without a doubt and 8gb sticks will more likely than not fit the same


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I can't really imagine it not fitting, unless they used thicker PCB
> 
> Depends I suppose one what capacity 4gb sticks will fit without a doubt and 8gb sticks will more likely than not fit the same
> 
> (damn sorry for double poost I was gonna edit this post into my last but hit submit >.<


Thanks, I figured they would fit but didn't want to jump to conclusions. I previously had no interest in x99 but the new Asus Deluxe is really calling to me lol. Was hoping I didn't have to wait for a new monarch series to drop before upgrading.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Not anywhere close to pics from lowfat, jameswalt, egami, snef, or hanover, but I figured I'd share anyway


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Not anywhere close to pics from lowfat, jameswalt, egami, snef, or hanover, but I figured I'd share anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Don't be shy of your pictures, you did a great job!


----------



## VSG

Yup, great pics


----------



## akira749

EDIT : Nevermind I found my answer


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Don't be shy of your pictures, you did a great job!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yup, great pics


Appreciate it guys







. Still a long way off being on either of your levels, but I'm working on it


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Appreciate it guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Still a long way off being on either of your levels, but I'm working on it


I just do the polishing / sanding while watching TV. Spend a few hours catching up on a show and polish away. Just did that w/ my pump top again. About 2 hours of just polishing.













EDIT: Even the EK badge is polishable.


----------



## szeged

Looks good lowfat. I spent 4 hours polishing yesterday, but that was for my car lol.


----------



## VSG

lowfat, any recommendations/tips for polishing this:



The top itself is clear as seen here:



But that insert makes things fuzzy:


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lowfat, any recommendations/tips for polishing this:
> 
> But that insert makes things fuzzy:


Nope. Looks like a nightmare.









Is it even acrylic? Can it be polished?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Nope. Looks like a nightmare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it even acrylic? Can it be polished?


It's some kind of injected polymer... no idea if it can be polished.

And I was referring to your mad photo skills more than your polishing... but I definitely need to try my hand at that, too. I've had all the materials sitting around for months but never got around to it.

EK did do a pretty good job with this block though. Aside from the frosted machined sides and water channels, the block is totally clear (to my eye at least.) It shouldn't be too hard to polish one of these


----------



## VSG

Stren said it is injected ABS (a thermoplastic).


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Stren said it is injected ABS (a thermoplastic).


Whoops, thanks for clearing that up. At least I got the injected part right


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*


My guess is that over time, EK might start making those new center adapters in colored acrylic, like they did with the Supreme tops, just to make the inner workings of the Supremacy's more interesting.


----------



## seross69

Die them


----------



## lowfat




----------



## tatmMRKIV

I can't wait for the nickel cleans to come in stock at performance!
supremacy showed up yesterday.

how do you guys polish these?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Check out lowfat's sig... he wrote up an excellent guide


----------



## iBored

Any word on blocks for the x99 deluxe board?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Any word on blocks for the x99 deluxe board?


Nope, still early. I started an idea for it over on thinkcell though. Sign up and vote if you want to see it happen







http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/motherboard-water-blocks-for-asus-x99-deluxe


----------



## niklot1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*


I'm a big fan of your shots - an excellent job!


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niklot1981*
> 
> I'm a big fan of your shots - an excellent job!


same here, he takes great pics


----------



## BranField

Soo happy right now

EK sapphire 290x waterblock facebook post


----------



## Yey09

I'll join too!

For now I only have the CPU water block *EK- Supreme LTX CSQ*

Next upgrade on the wishlist is the *EK Dual Bay SPIN Reservoir w/ Flow Meter - Acrylic CSQ* and the *EK Geforce GTX 770 DCII VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel (EK-FC770 GTX DCII - Nickel) with EK ASUS GeForce 680 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling RAM Backplate - Black CSQ (EK-FC680 GTX DCII Backplate - Black)*


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BranField*
> 
> Soo happy right now
> 
> EK sapphire 290x waterblock facebook post


That's pretty sick... love that they decided to go with a true fullcover.


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> That's pretty sick... love that they decided to go with a true fullcover.


full cover is definitely the way to go. got to start putting together a list of stuff for my first ever watercooling loop now lol


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I hope they drop a fullcover for the ASRock OCF x99 board
doubtful but I will hope

I really don't like ASUS's general business practices, so I am trying to avoid giving them money


----------



## Ragsters

Still waiting to hear anything about the MSI iTX full cover block. I mean I'm starting to think EK has scrapped the idea entirely.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Still waiting to hear anything about the MSI iTX full cover block. I mean I'm starting to think EK has scrapped the idea entirely.


lol I bet they did
I mean I hear that board is doing terribly
I am surprised someone with as much rep as you has one.

Supposedly they are pretty bad boards, plagued by poor layout

just that asrock board is probably going to be the RVE's most challenging competition but I don't think EK has ever made a block for them

Idunno they don't get the most sales from what I have seen


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> lol I bet they did
> I mean I hear that board is doing terribly
> I am surprised someone with as much rep as you has one.
> 
> Supposedly they are pretty bad boards, plagued by poor layout
> 
> just that asrock board is probably going to be the RVE's most challenging competition but I don't think EK has ever made a block for them
> 
> Idunno they don't get the most sales from what I have seen


I don't have one but I was considering it.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

basically the 24pin power is in a terrible location,
both the asus impact boards will be compatible with the fullcover block EK makes


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> basically the 24pin power is in a terrible location,
> both the asus impact boards will be compatible with the fullcover block EK makes


I want to try something other than Asus for my next build. Don't get me wrong, I love their boards I just want something different.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Normally I'd agree with you, but they have the ITX game on lockdown.


----------



## szeged

eta on rampage v extreme blocks?


----------



## Martyfish78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Any word on blocks for the x99 deluxe board?


That will be hard to do, cause look where is located a battery


----------



## Red1776

delete


----------



## szeged

any updates on plans to sell this pump top separately as a stand alone unit instead of bundled with a d5 pump?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=38773

i want the pump top but already have two d5 pumps lol.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martyfish78*
> 
> That will be hard to do, cause look where is located a battery


Battery?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martyfish78*
> 
> That will be hard to do, cause look where is located a battery


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Battery?


----------



## tSgt

I highly doubt the heatsink there cool anything. But the battery positions clearly block the way of a Monoblock


----------



## afokke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BranField*
> 
> Soo happy right now
> 
> EK sapphire 290x waterblock facebook post


Looks like it's only for the Vapor-X R9 290*X* and not the R9 290


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> Looks like it's only for the Vapor-X R9 290*X* and not the R9 290


i believe it is. i dont know what the differences are between the 290 vapor and the 290x vapor so you never know, could get lucky and it fit/work


----------



## VSG

Both have different PCBs for whatever reason, so EK is right in that it won't fit the R9-290 version.


----------



## BranField

well in that case @afokke, If i were you i would put in an idea on their think cell and see what comes of it

EDIT: Fixed


----------



## VSG

Well I don't own either nor plan to, so I am not in a big hurry to do that


----------



## BranField

i probably should have checked who i was replying to first, damn it, my bad


----------



## VSG




----------



## MeanBruce

Going with standard orientation for the EK block looks like this.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9537_zpsc39f3f95.jpg.html

Rotating the block CCW leaves the fittings with a more symmetric positioning.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9541_zps370b0c47.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9542_zps6c679817.jpg.html

Aesthetically I like the symmetry, but do not want to discount functionality, what to do, what to do?

My pump and rad feed from the front of the chassis, that's why it looks a little goofy.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9518_zpsab019d5f.jpg.html


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

For all you EK lovers out there, I took apart my loop and have plenty of EK blocks and fittings for sale in the classifieds threads, take a peek and let me know if anything interests you.


----------



## iBored

Can anyone confirm if the EK ram blocks are compatible with DDR4?
Seems to be similar length-wise.


Or is there something new coming out?

*EDIT: EKWB Cooling Configurator has confirmed compatibility. AWESOME!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Can anyone confirm if the EK ram blocks are compatible with DDR4?
> Or is there something new coming out?


You would need the EK heat sink kit


----------



## MeanBruce

Where is derick? there is no help here at all.

Charging up the driver for build day tomorrow.

It's pure magnetism baby.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9553_zpscac3b79f.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9552_zps3d178e03.jpg.html


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I read a few pages back it's compatible


----------



## techjesse

My EK Water Blocks


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lowfat, any recommendations/tips for polishing this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top itself is clear as seen here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But that insert makes things fuzzy:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey geggeg, I finally got around to testing out polishing the abs insert from the evo. It will polish up fine, but it would take a TON of work and time to get it fully transparent. Also, it has a lot of waves and ripples in the surface, so you won't get the perfect mirror-like finish that lowfat does with his pump tops and blocks.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Hey geggeg, I finally got around to testing out polishing the abs insert from the evo. It will polish up fine, but it would take a TON of work and time to get it fully transparent. Also, it has a lot of waves and ripples in the surface, so you won't get the perfect mirror-like finish that lowfat does with his pump tops and blocks.


Same method as with acrylic then? Pics would be great


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Same method as with acrylic then? Pics would be great


I didn't use sandpaper, just some mother's plastic polish (more or less the same as meguier's) with a polishing cloth. I'm sure the results would be better if you went over it with high grit sandpaper first (I'd probably start with 800 and work my way up.) I wouldn't want to sand too much though, since it could affect performance if you start changing the shape of the insert.

I only worked on the spare one for a few minutes yesterday, but I'm planning on starting on the intel insert soon. I'll try and get some decent pics up when I'm done


----------



## VSG

Ya, I am going to try it out with the spare first as well. Thanks for the tips, +1


----------



## Tempest2000

Does anyone have any info comparing the the new Thermosphere universal GPU block to the VGA Supremacy block in terms of dimensions? I can't seem to find any. The EK Cooling Configurator says that the Supremacy fits my GPU but it says that the Thermosphere does not. I'm wondering if that is really the case or if the Cooling Configurator is just out of date for Thermosphere compatability (since it's new). I much prefer the look of the Thermosphere.


----------



## MeanBruce

Anyone tried illuminating the EK plexi with 3mm LEDs? Does the light flow evenly to the opposite side of the block?

Wonder if the Koolance brand twin LED is a good pick.

Any input is desperately welcomed at this 11th hour.









Thank you.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=72_107_837


----------



## tatmMRKIV

DDR4 should be compatible with all ek's coolers.. looks the same size to me at worst you just need to buy some slightly thinner thermal tape


----------



## derickwm

Hi!

Sorry everyone. I moved, again. I'm in a permanent place now for quite a while (back in Boston). I'll be around a lot more often...now that my interest is faster than 256 kb down and 10 kb up...


----------



## VSG

Internet, Derick, but I can see how that is of interest as well.

Here's some EK stuff for you:


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> Sorry everyone. I moved, again. I'm in a permanent place now for quite a while (back in Boston). I'll be around a lot more often...now that my interest is faster than 256 kb down and 10 kb up...


time to bombard you with questions -

1. ETA for waterblocks for the rampage V extreme?

2. Confirmation of EK blocks fitting ddr4 sticks?

3. sell this pump top seperately damnit! umm...more of a statement than a question i guess.



4. any official numbers for the evo vs non evo supremacy regarding socket 2011 / 2011 v3 temps?

5. any eta on conversion kits for the evo arriving at frozencpu/perf pcs?

6. tired of all these questions?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> Sorry everyone. I moved, again. I'm in a permanent place now for quite a while (back in Boston). I'll be around a lot more often...now that my interest is faster than 256 kb down and 10 kb up...
> 
> 
> 
> time to bombard you with questions -
> 
> 1. ETA for waterblocks for the rampage V extreme?
> 
> 2. Confirmation of EK blocks fitting ddr4 sticks?
> 
> 3. sell this pump top seperately damnit! umm...more of a statement than a question i guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 4. any official numbers for the evo vs non evo supremacy regarding socket 2011 / 2011 v3 temps?
> 
> 5. any eta on conversion kits for the evo arriving at frozencpu/perf pcs?
> 
> 6. tired of all these questions?
Click to expand...

1. A while. Probably mid to late October. Hopefully sooner.

2. Ask me this later. But I assume yes as I haven't been told otherwise.

3. Someday.

4. @stren is doing 4930k soon. I think @geggeg might do Haswell-E soon?

5. Probably a week or less

6. Yes


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 1. A while. Probably mid to late October. Hopefully sooner.
> 
> 2. Ask me this later. But I assume yes as I haven't been told otherwise.
> 
> 3. *Someday.*
> 
> 4. @stren
> is doing 4930k soon. I think @geggeg
> might do Haswell-E soon?
> 
> 5. Probably a week or less
> 
> 6. Yes





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







y u do dis.

y 4 am do dis 4.

killin me man.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> Sorry everyone. I moved, again. I'm in a permanent place now for quite a while (back in Boston). I'll be around a lot more often...now that my interest is faster than 256 kb down and 10 kb up...


Can I come say hi?
and take any spare EK EVOs home with me?


----------



## derickwm

Remind me later, when I'm more moved in. We (Ocn folk) need to have all go out to the bar. I know there's quite a few of us in Boston.


----------



## Nichismo

next time I drain my loop and remove a few things, im going to unscrew the waterblock terminals and flip them so the EKWB logo isnt upside down anymore


----------



## ozzy1925

here is the offical answer from ek about ddr4


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hi!


Oh hi









I have a question: I just ordered a EK-FB ASUS M6I and about to order the hardware to go under it. The Maximus VII Impact supports M.2 SSD cards up to 110mm, but does the waterblock support this as well? Or do I have to get a short M.2?

And another while I think of it. I also bought these nice red anodised HDC fittings, but two of my fittings need to be for flexible tubing, is there a chance they will also make red anodised EK-CSQ compression fittings?

Thank you


----------



## DuraN1

One more question for you derick:

Ascendancy?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DuraN1*
> 
> One more question for you derick:
> 
> Ascendancy?


Still in beta testing...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1494084/sponsored-ek-ascendacy-community-test-thread/240#post_22664859


----------



## Gardnerphotos

If you haven't voted already I appreciate your support:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1506101/ocn-mod-of-the-month-august-2014-sponsored-class-voting-now-live/100_100#post_22797633


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> If you haven't voted already I appreciate your support:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1506101/ocn-mod-of-the-month-august-2014-sponsored-class-voting-now-live/100_100#post_22797633


That thing is a beauty. Good job there sir


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> That thing is a beauty. Good job there sir


Thank you!


----------



## DuraN1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Still in beta testing...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1494084/sponsored-ek-ascendacy-community-test-thread/240#post_22664859


Thanks, was not aware


----------



## pathfindercod

Some EK Pr0n and new EK acrylic compression fittings, yay.

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0088_zps4e5d91de.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0089_zpsc75ddbad.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0083_zps07e2edca.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0028_zps78c32610.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0037_zps902f4fce.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0039_zpsfecec4b7.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0032_zpse872428e.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0025_zps9366be3e.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0023_zps456dabc4.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0020_zps19403caf.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0024_zps0cab6689.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0015_zpsa421d898.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0008_zps7d8fd187.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0013_zps9c755851.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0041_zps837bc5cf.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0034_zpsf70f1099.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0047_zpsb52b7d3e.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0060_zpse771742a.jpg.html

link to the build for anyone interested in the other stuff.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1496953/build-log-case-labs-mercury-s8-triple-threat/100


----------



## laxboimike

OMG love the build pathfindercod.... I just finished mine and it's all EK ! Minus a few fittings lol


----------



## pathfindercod

Thanks laxboimike! Great build yourself, love the green. Think that's my next build color.


----------



## mus1mus

HOLY!

Can I has one of them pics for wallpaper please??







@pathfindercod









Excellent build!!


----------



## pathfindercod

Thank you mus1mus! Sure which one do you want? Just give me the number pic you want PM me email addy and I'll upload a full res version somewhere for you. They are big files I shot them with a 36mp nikon d810... Should make a nice wallpaper.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Thank you mus1mus! Sure which one do you want? Just give me the number pic you want PM me email addy and I'll upload a full res version somewhere for you. They are big files I shot them with a 36mp nikon d810... Should make a nice wallpaper.


Thanks man, but yeah, I got them already.. Just using a phone so no biggie on the res. Still drooling over your build!


----------



## laxboimike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Thanks laxboimike! Great build yourself, love the green. Think that's my next build color.


Green is such a pain to deal with nothing comes in green! i wish i could of did red and black.... i feel like everything is red or atleast you can get it in red lol


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Some EK Pr0n and new EK acrylic compression fittings, yay.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0088_zps4e5d91de.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0089_zpsc75ddbad.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0083_zps07e2edca.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0028_zps78c32610.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0037_zps902f4fce.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0039_zpsfecec4b7.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0032_zpse872428e.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0025_zps9366be3e.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0023_zps456dabc4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0020_zps19403caf.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0024_zps0cab6689.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0015_zpsa421d898.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0008_zps7d8fd187.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0013_zps9c755851.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0041_zps837bc5cf.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0034_zpsf70f1099.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0047_zpsb52b7d3e.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0060_zpse771742a.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> link to the build for anyone interested in the other stuff.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1496953/build-log-case-labs-mercury-s8-triple-threat/100


Absolutely worderful my friend!!!

Superb photos too!!!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Some EK Pr0n and new EK acrylic compression fittings, yay.
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0023_zps456dabc4.jpg.html


Wow, this is the first time I've actually seen a coolant filled monoblock... It looks sensational.


----------



## iBored

Build Log - Toys for Boys


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Wow, this is the first time I've actually seen a coolant filled monoblock... It looks sensational.


Thank you my friend! Much appreciated comments! Makes the blood, sweat and TEARS worth while.


----------



## nepToon

So close yet so far


----------



## VSG

Looks like EK is selling 180/360/540 x 35 mm rads starting tomorrow:



Funny thing is I got a 540mm rad mount for my TX10 from Stren and I was considering getting one for the giggles from Alphacool.


----------



## cstkl1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like EK is selling 180/360/540 x 35 mm rads starting tomorrow:
> 
> 
> 
> Funny thing is I got a 540mm rad mount for my TX10 from Stren and I was considering getting one for the giggles from Alphacool.


Hmm i wonder wheather i would be able to put two of those 180 in tj11. Hmm


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like EK is selling 180/360/540 x 35 mm rads starting tomorrow:


That is unfortunate. I honestly just ordered a 3x180mm and a 2x180mm three days ago. Those would have looked much better.


----------



## MeanBruce

Only needed one EK badge for the front of the X-Res to cover the unused G1/4 end plug, but they only come in a pack of 5. Also swapping out the stock chrome pressure port 8mm extender for the matte black. Was going to Plasti-Dip it but since its making a critical water seal, didn't want to risk it, only been water cooling 40days, learning slowly.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9576_zpse50e8606.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9375_zps5dd7003f.jpg.html


----------



## iBored

EKWB













Also, my gpu looks a little bend on the corner. Any ideas as to why?
Its only this corner that's like this.


----------



## Lutfij

All these pictures of blocks look amazing









I'm in a bit of a tight spot...are you guys using 12mm EK HDC fittings on top of the blocks or 16mm fittings? I'm trying to figure out which one is more aesthetically pleasing.


----------



## szeged

bigger cases like caselabs sth10 and what not i think 16mm looks better. small builds in something like a s3 looks better with 12mm.

all my opinion of course.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> bigger cases like caselabs sth10 and what not i think 16mm looks better. small builds in something like a s3 looks better with 12mm.
> 
> all my opinion of course.


Very much agreed. I'm using 10/12 tubes.


----------



## szeged

im using 12mm tube in the sth10, i would have done 16mm but bitspower fittings werent out for it when i started.

also, that looks awesome, nice job


----------



## Lutfij

Alright, you guys have spoken! I'll shoot for 12mm fittings+tubing. If you guys can, please pop by my Urban Splash Build log









+ rep for ya pals!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> bigger cases like caselabs sth10 and what not i think 16mm looks better. small builds in something like a s3 looks better with 12mm.
> 
> all my opinion of course.


Agree!









And his case half the volume of an S3, soo...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> Alright, you guys have spoken! I'll shoot for 12mm fittings+tubing.


Are you going for the gold ones? I bought some red ones the other day, will post some pictures soon


----------



## skupples

Just found out that YES 780Ti/Titan black EK blocks fit on Vanilla titans.... @DerickWM


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Very much agreed. I'm using 10/12 tubes.


So classy







IMO 12mm OD acrylic looks better than 16 in pretty much every situation, especially around the motherboard.


----------



## cky2k6

Does EK not make csq blocks anymore? I like the plexi bridge I have with my cards, and I'd be pretty annoyed if I had to use fittings or buy an acetal link for new gpus. All I can find is some 290x dcii left overs on frozencpu.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Yeah, they're still making original CSQ stuff. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1207&products_id=36031


----------



## cky2k6

That's a bridge... I'm talking about gpu blocks for newer cards.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cky2k6*
> 
> That's a bridge... I'm talking about gpu blocks for newer cards.


Yeah, it was just the first csq product I saw so I linked it.

They still make CSQ GPU blocks, but only for certain cards. What exactly are you looking for?


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> So classy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMO 12mm OD acrylic looks better than 16 in pretty much every situation, especially around the motherboard.


Thanks!









I'm getting high temps around 87C-ish on load at 4.4ghz, 1.2V.
Apparently the 360+240 SR-1s with Eloop b12-2s aren't doing a good enough job.

Does anyone have an EK PE rad review?
I'm considering changing to a 480 and 360 PE.


----------



## cstkl1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm getting high temps around 87C-ish on load at 4.4ghz, 1.2V.
> Apparently the 360+240 SR-1s with Eloop b12-2s aren't doing a good enough job.
> 
> Does anyone have an EK PE rad review?
> I'm considering changing to a 480 and 360 PE.


Hwlabs nemesis gtx. They are amazing.
Doubt the pe will be better thsn sr1. Sr2 is coming soon.

Btw those are haswell-e right. Shld be toasty.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cstkl1*
> 
> Hwlabs nemesis gtx. They are amazing.
> Doubt the pe will be better thsn sr1. Sr2 is coming soon.
> 
> Btw those are haswell-e right. Shld be toasty.


But they look kinda... rough. (that's what she said)
Yea its a 5930K.
Shouldn't more surface area (38fpi on the PE) work better (than a 9fpi SR-1)?
Also, where'd you get the news on the SR-2?


----------



## VSG

Seeing how this is an EK thread, I don't want to clutter it with other rad info. But ya- SR2 is coming soon (even mentioned on their facebook page). It is more coolant flow optimized than performance optimized though- the Nemesis series is the performance line.

Owners of the EK PE on the various retailer sites- FCPU/PPC etc- seem to be happy with it.


----------



## szeged

friend in town bought a EK PE, i didnt get to try it or anything but the quality of it was superb. better than anything ive had from alphacool for sure.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> friend in town bought a EK PE, i didnt get to try it or anything but the quality of it was superb. better than anything ive had from alphacool for sure.


Those new rads look great.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm getting high temps around 87C-ish on load at 4.4ghz, 1.2V.
> Apparently the 360+240 SR-1s with Eloop b12-2s aren't doing a good enough job.
> 
> Does anyone have an EK PE rad review?
> I'm considering changing to a 480 and 360 PE.


Definitely not the radiators fault. Not unless you are running those fans @ 600 RPM or something. Changing radiators won't gain you a thing.

And the SR2s look exactly the same as the SR1s. Just less paint on the fins. That and they changed their 140mm fan spacing.


----------



## Pheozero

Love my PE's. Too bad I got a revised one and the extensions on one are black and the other silver.


----------



## iBored

Im
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Definitely not the radiators fault. Not unless you are running those fans @ 600 RPM or something. Changing radiators won't gain you a thing.
> 
> And the SR2s look exactly the same as the SR1s. Just less paint on the fins. That and they changed their 140mm fan spacing.


I'm running my b12-2's at 1000 rpm.
it was enough to clock my old 2500k at 4.5.
Should I swap the 240 for a 480 instead?

Oh, and nice work with your pump top!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Just found out that YES 780Ti/Titan black EK blocks fit on Vanilla titans.... @DerickWM


ohyou.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cky2k6*
> 
> That's a bridge... I'm talking about gpu blocks for newer cards.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, it was just the first csq product I saw so I linked it.
> 
> They still make CSQ GPU blocks, but only for certain cards. What exactly are you looking for?
Click to expand...

This is correct. CSQ aren't top sellers so we can't make them available for every single block we do unfortunately.


----------



## VSG

Solution- buy EK badges and paste them on your block in a CSQ fashion









Surprised no one has done this till now for the giggles and ensuing "fanboy" comments.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> ohyou.
> 
> This is correct. CSQ aren't top sellers so we can't make them available for every single block we do unfortunately.










in pursuit of the truth the support just isn't reciprocal. Vaniila block on gk110b = missing VrM coverage.


----------



## cstkl1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> But they look kinda... rough. (that's what she said)
> Yea its a 5930K.
> Shouldn't more surface area (38fpi on the PE) work better (than a 9fpi SR-1)?
> Also, where'd you get the news on the SR-2?


The guy from hwlabs

I am using the nemesis gtx. I had the sr1 560 before
Its even better on low fan. Cant compare directly because blocks were different.


----------



## VSG

So those EK 180mm rads are out today, pricing is honestly better than I expected too.

http://www.ekwb.com/news/518/19/EK-releases-180mm-series-Coolstream-WE-radiator/
Quote:


> EK Water Blocks, Ljubljana based premium computer liquid cooling gear manufacturer, is proud to introduce company's first 180mm form-factor, high-performance computer liquid-cooling radiator. This radiator combines EK's unique CSQ design with latest radiator core engine construction.
> 
> EK-CoolStream WE is a high-performance computer water-cooling radiator which combines EK's unique CSQ design with latest radiator core engine. Built for 180mm fans, these radiators are optimized for maximum heat dissipation across entire fan operational range thus delivering exceptional performance at both low- and high airflow operation. EK assured quality level, optimal price-performance ratio and unique minimalistic design make these EK-CoolStream WE series radiators a perfect choice for any computer water cooled system.
> 
> This radiator offers best cooling capacity in the 35mm thick radiator class: Double stack copper fins provide massive surface area while the parallel flow cooling chambers reduce hydraulic flow resistance to a minimum. Radiator shrouds are tapped with UNC 6-32 threads on both sides to enable push-pull fan installation to even further increase the cooling performance.
> 
> Technical data:
> - Copper fins
> - 90% copper tubing (H90)
> - Brass chambers
> - Steel housing with Matte Dark Grey finish
> - 38 FPI (19 FPI split fin)
> - 2x G1/4" BSP Port threading
> - Fits any standard size 180x180x25mm fan; UNC 6-32 thread tapping
> 
> Each EK-CoolStream WE series radiator comes with a set of flat-head UNC 6-32 screws, both long (l=30mm) and short (l=5mm). These new radiators are packed in a easily-recognizable white & green EK CSQ packaging.
> 
> EK also offers branded 180mm cooling fan for separate purchase. EK-FAN 180 PWM (500-900 RPM) is a quality and durable 180mm form factor computer ventilation fan, designed for enthusiasts who are after silent and lasting cooling solution. Fan provides additional airflow without increasing noise levels and is available at an affordable price. Precisely balanced fan blades and long-life (30.000 hrs MTBF) hydro-dynamic bearing and Pulse-Width Modulation RPM control guarantees reliable low-noise operation. This fan is a perfect companion for EK-RAD Coolstream WE series radiators.
> 
> EK-CoolStream WE series radiators come in three different sizes and are readily available for purchase through EK Webshop and Partner Reseller Network.
> 
> SKU MSRP (incl. VAT)
> EK-CoolStream WE 180 (Single) 61,95€
> EK-CoolStream WE 360 (Dual) 84,95€
> EK-CoolStream WE 540 (Triple) 104,95€
> EK-FAN 180 PWM (500-900 RPM) 12,95€


----------



## szeged

Know what I'd like to see? Full nickel plated copper top rampage v extreme block


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

is this compatible with the EK supremacy evo?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_410_1032&products_id=41587

I'm wondering if the supremacy top would fit the supremacy evo?


----------



## VSG

No, the tops aren't interchangeable unfortunately. The insert means needing a differently machined top and that's why the Evo upgrade kits come with tops.


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No, the tops aren't interchangeable unfortunately. The insert means needing a differently machined top and that's why the Evo upgrade kits come with tops.


I see, thanks


----------



## BranField

for anyone that is interested, i got a reply back from EK regarding the 290x vaporx block



To summarize (for those on mobile or dont want to blow up image), the block is in testing and will be available in around 4 weeks.


----------



## lowfat

My 'clean' CSQ DDC top.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> My 'clean' CSQ DDC top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



















People have to realize that it was originally like this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I cant wait till I can grab the polishing stuff this afternoon. My BP top needs it more than my ek-club stuff though imo. Lol I can't wait to get everything together. I got the commercial d5 hooked on the BP top and I need to get some 3/8 tubing so I can have 2 in 2 out because the flow is crazy and it's not possible to fit 2 1/2 ID 3/4OD. For reference the d5 comes with 1/2" barbs


----------



## Roxycon

Anyone of you have a suggestion on which spray paint that will give the most similar colour on the supremacy mounting screws and the ek-badges as the copper on the blocks?

I'm going from soft to partially acrylic tubes in my loop, I will too go with mayhems pastel black coolant, will polished or frosted (csq) blocks look the best?


----------



## VSG

There's an antique copper matte finish spray found here in the US (Lowe's) that I have found to match pretty well. No idea what's available for you in Norway though!


----------



## Roxycon

I looked at the antique at eBay but the shipping is sadly more expensive than the product







will bite that bullet though if nothing else is suggested


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> I looked at the antique at eBay but the shipping is sadly more expensive than the product
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will bite that bullet though if nothing else is suggested


If shipping is more expensive, look at other options. You can also look at getting a can of copper paint from a local hardware store, and modifying the color with other paints just like coolant (if need be) before brushing it on.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If shipping is more expensive, look at other options. You can also look at getting a can of copper paint from a local hardware store, and modifying the color with other paints just like coolant (if need be) before brushing it on.


Yhea, the local stuff I found was the plastidip copper (though every shop are out of stock) and some nonbrand hobbypaint, not really keen on tackling the badges with brushes, hard to get a good finish


----------



## kael13

I haven't yet received my EK Supremacy EVO, but I have a quick question as a newbie at this whole thing; what orientation should I go for with my X99 5820k?


----------



## Kimir

Isn't it like the X79, goofy? (inlet in the middle, outlet on top)


----------



## ozzy1925

i just read this at ek facebook page:

Enerdyne Solutions and EK Water Blocks have an announcement to make: EK-Supremacy EVO Elite - Intel 2011 and it's Indigo Xtreme applicator are incompatible with LGA-2011-3 CPUs (X99).

The cause of this incompatibility is the IHS used on Intel Core i7 5800/5900 series CPUs is larger than the lid used on 2011-0 generation CPUs. If installed using the same orientation as the 2011-0 CPUs, the thick, blue stiffening member on the current EK-TIM Indigo Xtreme for socket 2011 will be caught between the waterblock and 2011-3 lid, causing a total reflow failure. If rotated 90° from the current orientation, the vent hole will be exposed and fill with molten alloy. In addition, the blue alignment ring doesn't match the larger lid and will facilitate misalignments. In short, we don't see a straight-forward work-around to adapting the current 2011 IX model.

However, new EVO Elite - Intel 2011-3 as well as new IX applicator are in the works and will be available for purchase by early Q4 2014.


----------



## Newtocooling

Where is the Ascendacy! Is it still coming out?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

So don't use their INDIGO TIM? Or is it something else? That doesn't make much sense. What is this blue stiffening member they speak of?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> So don't use their INDIGO TIM? Or is it something else? That doesn't make much sense. What is this blue *stiffening member* they speak of?


Oh I think you know.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I know man, I know!

But why is it blue?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I know man, I know!
> 
> But why is it blue?


hasn't gotten much action lately


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Where is the Ascendacy! Is it still coming out?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Where is the Ascendacy! Is it still coming out?


Unfortunately canceled, it'll be redesigned and released in the future.


----------



## VSG

Hopefully it comes back as the AscendaNcy sooner than later.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Unfortunately canceled, it'll be redesigned and released in the future.


Bummer, no compettion for the Aquaero yet then.


----------



## Cyberpunk71

Hi Guys,

New to this Forum and hoping for some Advice, I previously had a Swiftech H320 which due to Plasticiser build up began failing, Realising I was going to have to carry out regular maintenance on the Swiftech I Figured I may as well go with a New Custom Loop, So this is what I have now :-

EK - Supremacy Evo - Copper Plexi CPU Block
EK - Dual Bay Res - Black Acetal
Alphacool VPP655 Vario D5 pump Connected to bay Res
Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360 Full copper Rad
3 x Enermax Variable speed fans 120mm - set as intake on top of Rad
Chrome Monsoon Compression fittings
1/2 " ID 3/4 " OD Primochill Primoflex advanced LRT tubing (clear)
Coollaboratory Liquid coolant (blue)

Ok, set this all up today, took my time and it appears to have gone with no problems, leak tested for about 3 hrs using the paperclip method, then connected everything back up and running fine. I read lots of different advice on Loop order and I have gone with:-

Res/Pump to Rad, Rad to CPU inlet, CPU outlet back to Res.

At the moment I still have air flying around the loop, but has only been running for approx 4hrs, The loop has taken about 900 ml and the Res is up to the Max line and stable.

I used Arctic Silver 5 for my Thermal Compound, It's just what I've always used so I'm aware that will need time to bed in!

However, my Rig is not overclocked ATM and the I7 is only getting 1.12V, Yet my Temps are worrying??

Using Core Temp on boot-up my CPU was at times hitting 72C on core 1, This is way worse than the Swiftech H320, Whilst Idling the Temps are sitting between 40 & 50C with ambient temp in the room of 24C so my question is what have I done wrong?

Should I have followed a different order with the loop?

Is it because there is still small amounts of Air in the System?

Could I have a bad Mount on the CPU block?

Is Arctic Silver 5 suitable for Water Cooling setups?

I guess It could be any of these or something else I haven't thought of, The Vario pump Is currently on setting 5 to try and blast the Air out.

I also Flushed the Radiator with hot de-ionised water several times before using it but to be fair it was pretty clean, just caught some very small black debris in a coffee filter, i've seen much worse on Youtube!

So would appreciate any Advice you can give, was hoping for Idling temps in the low 30's at least, Thanks!!


----------



## pathfindercod

Well damn, EK put by rig on their FB page and I didn't even know!

Thanks EK!

https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks/photos/a.288479541206084.77684.182927101761329/721000411287326/?type=1


----------



## Cyberpunk71

Ok,

Seems I've found the problem, it had to be a bad Mount of the CPU block and it is, but I cant fix it !

I'm only getting a Thermal paste footprint on about 1/3 rd of the copper face plate, which matches the top 1/3 rd of my CPU.

I'm using the correct stand-off's far as I can tell, the others are smaller and have notches on them which I believe to be for socket 2011, can anyone confirm this for me??

I have removed the Plastic washers from under the stand-offs to try and lower the face plate some more but still no contact with the bottom half of my CPU, it's as though the face plate will not touch the CPU, I cant get it to contact by hand even and the standoff's are tight to the M/board,

I've had air coolers and a Swiftech H320 installed on this very M/board and CPU prior to this so I'm totally baffled, any Ideas anyone??


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Wrong jetplate? What part is touching


----------



## Cyberpunk71

Ok,

Have raised a ticket with EK, have checked and triple checked, stripped out & refitted the back plate, M4 standoffs are all tight to the board, covered entire CPU with thermal compound and cannot get anywhere near a full footprint on the copper cold plate.
EK list my m/board as compatible with this block as in physically checked!
Rotten luck I guess, either my m/board is seriously warped or I have a block very much out of tolerance, also reseated CPU in case of any error there & I can see that the CPU is proud of the retention bracket, still no luck, will see what EK suggest and check back here tomorrow in case anyone has had a similar experience.

Calling it a day, Cyber!


----------



## Cyberpunk71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Wrong jetplate? What part is touching


Hi there, it's just making contact on the top 1/3rd of the cold plate, I haven't had the bock apart because according to the instructions it comes pre-fitted with the optimal and correct jet plate for socket 1366?

Sorry I'm new to this, would changing out the jet plate lower the cold plate in effect? Could be the problem?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Well the jetplates each have different thicknesses which cause the block to bow more or less depending in what size the ic in your chip is
It's just an idea for something that cod possibly cause your problem


----------



## snef

some EK stuff for "Project Renegade X


----------



## derickwm

For Aldri


----------



## TheCautiousOne




----------



## madness777




----------



## VSG

EK's got the Asus z97 board mosfet blocks ready: http://www.ekwb.com/news/521/19/EK-introduces-ASUS-Maximus-VII-Gene-Hero-Ranger-MOSFET-water-blocks/

Needless to say only Gene, Hero and Ranger- Impact full board from z87 still fits and the M7F finally has a copper block with G/14 threads (even if the copper is in direct contact with the aluminum heatsink above, but baby steps).


----------



## timmsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> EK's got the Asus z97 board mosfet blocks ready: http://www.ekwb.com/news/521/19/EK-introduces-ASUS-Maximus-VII-Gene-Hero-Ranger-MOSFET-water-blocks/
> 
> Needless to say only Gene, Hero and Ranger- Impact full board from z87 still fits and the M7F finally has a copper block with G/14 threads (even if the copper is in direct contact with the aluminum heatsink above, but baby steps).


This post is FULL of win!

Been waiting for the Ranger blocks since i got the board


----------



## VSG




----------



## Cyberpunk71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Well the jetplates each have different thicknesses which cause the block to bow more or less depending in what size the ic in your chip is
> It's just an idea for something that cod possibly cause your problem


Hey,

Thanks for the help, I have just stripped my m/board and loop out of Chassis to explore what's going on & not happy with what I've found

3 out of the 4 retention screws for the copper cold plate are standing proud of the copper by almost 1mm, the counter sinks are simply not deep enough as these screws are tight into the block.
As a result they are contacting the retention screws for the CPU socket and preventing any possibility of getting a decent contact with CPU. Have sent a ticket to EK explaining that I'm not too happy with their Quality Control, guess it's gonna be a 100 mile plus round trip to Scan for me tomorrow cos I don't want to have to be without my Rig for probably a week waiting on an RMA, but at least I found the problem


----------



## derickwm

Which CPU?

Can you post more pics?


----------



## lowfat

EK, you really need to ditch the circle badge and move to this all around. It looks so bauce.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

on the right is EK

I kill your circles!

and I did the inside because I could. hopefully it doesn't affect performance i got a lil carried away with the 360 grit


----------



## derickwm

Or ya know...


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I have 4 pumps already though, and 2 of them are not of this realm. One is an E3 series
Other is a d5 strong 810

N it will look much better once I get some 2500 3000 and plastx
I actually need it clear to keep an eye on clearance for my nonstandard impellers


----------



## iBored

Is there a dual D5 pump top for that?


----------



## Pheozero

I would do terrible, terrible things for one of those in dual pump top variety. Seriously, one of these in clean plexi. We need to make it happen.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Seriously, one of these in clean plexi. We need to make it happen.


I would personally call this pure pr0n


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Seriously, one of these in clean plexi. We need to make it happen.
> 
> 
> 
> I would personally call this pure pr0n
Click to expand...

agreed. I got a little chub


----------



## niklot1981

EK-Thermosphere


__
https://flic.kr/p/15039097509


__
https://flic.kr/p/15039286538


__
https://flic.kr/p/15222784351


__
https://flic.kr/p/15202843146


__
https://flic.kr/p/15039192630


----------



## derickwm

Sexy


----------



## kael13

Somebody in here said that the EVO should be mounted "goofy", i.e. with the inlet in the middle and the outlet at the top for X99, can others confirm?

Thanks.


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> I would do terrible, terrible things for one of those in dual pump top variety. Seriously, one of these in clean plexi. We need to make it happen.


Thats the exact pun in my current build, clean plexi would have been nice. Although you can't see it in my build, in the basement behind closed doors so to speak.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kael13*
> 
> Somebody in here said that the EVO should be mounted "goofy", i.e. with the inlet in the middle and the outlet at the top for X99, can others confirm?
> 
> Thanks.


That's how I mount mine and it works just fine.


----------



## cky2k6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> ohyou.
> 
> This is correct. CSQ aren't top sellers so we can't make them available for every single block we do unfortunately.


I don't really care about the blocks themselves (csq or not, can't actually see them...), but I have a csq plexi bridge. Kinda funny that 290/290x csq blocks are the ones eol, considering those cards need wc a lot more than 780s... Why don't you have plexi versions of your ek link bridges? I don't like using fittings/tubing to link gpus, but with your current gpu blocks, the only bridges are all acetal.


----------



## derickwm

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-nickel-original-csq-rev-2-0.html

CSQ 290X blocks aren't EOL.

Plexi dual/triple/quad terminals for clean CSQ blocks are coming.


----------



## cky2k6

I dunno, I saw one that said eol. but w/e. There's still no stock of it anywhere.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Plexi dual/triple/quad terminals for clean CSQ blocks are coming.


I already have the terminal, I need a block for a 290x that supports it...


----------



## lowfat




----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cky2k6*
> 
> I dunno, I saw one that said eol. but w/e. There's still no stock of it anywhere.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Plexi dual/triple/quad terminals for clean CSQ blocks are coming.
> 
> 
> 
> I already have the terminal, I need a block for a 290x that supports it...
Click to expand...

Rev 2 was just released so you may have saw Rev 1 was EOL.

You have the plexi CSQ bridges, correct? These are Terminals.


----------



## cky2k6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Rev 2 was just released so you may have saw Rev 1 was EOL.
> 
> You have the plexi CSQ bridges, correct? These are Terminals.


On your page it says rev 2.0 was released in April, there's no stock of it anywhere. It would certainly seem that even if it's not eol, it's not exactly a priority considering it's only one variant rather than the usual copper/acetal/nickel choices. Anyways, when would those plexi terminals come out for the non-csq blocks?


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cky2k6*
> 
> On your page it says rev 2.0 was released in April, there's no stock of it anywhere. It would certainly seem that even if it's not eol, it's not exactly a priority considering it's only one variant rather than the usual copper/acetal/nickel choices. Anyways, when would those plexi terminals come out for the non-csq blocks?


Also would like to know, I need Terminal DUAL Parallel 3-Slot in plexi


----------



## cstkl1

Wish ek had a hdd wc rack.


----------



## iBored

Someone enlighten me, how does a cpu block work? Specifically why does mounting the base piece with the fins parallel or perpendicular to the jet plate affect the temps and flow?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Someone enlighten me, how does a cpu block work? Specifically why does mounting the base piece with the fins parallel or perpendicular to the jet plate affect the temps and flow?


Because the die is not a square, its a rectangle. You want the water to flow across the short way to get as much lateral movement of water across the most surface, so that you are not pushing warmer water across the length of the die. This is true for all of the sandy/ivy/haswell mainstream. I cannot speak for the E series, but I doubt they are a perfect square either.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Someone enlighten me, how does a cpu block work? Specifically why does mounting the base piece with the fins parallel or perpendicular to the jet plate affect the temps and flow?


The theory would be that the die under the IHS is rectangular, so the jet plate has an elongated slit that runs along the length of that rectangle. That forces all of the water flow to come into contact with that focused region and then the microchannels radiate in a parallel direction on both sides and away.
In practice it would seem that block bow and the contact it creates has much more influence than alignments of jets and channels. With the blocks rotated 90 degrees the slit in the jet plate runs across the die and much of the flow then misses that die area directly but it does not seem to matter.

Edit;
Unless you mean just the block itself. The Microchannels have to run perpendicular to the jet plate or all the flow will be forced in to the very few channels that would be accessible if they ran parallel.


----------



## niklot1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*


Great, as always


----------



## VSG

For those on the Haswell-E platform:
Quote:


> We have updated our EK Water Blocks EK-Supremacy EVO installation manual. Please use Insert 2 (I2) with Jet J1 (0.25mm) for best results on Intel LGA-2011-V3 series Core i7 58xx/59xx CPUs. We never stop - we are fine tuning the performance even further.


----------



## andytom69

Hi
There are poblemi to work in the second waterblock entrance opposite?
I should be aesthetically


----------



## xarot

I didn't quite understand, but I think maybe you want to use angled adapter from second card's outlet port?


----------



## andytom69

yes xarot
the 290x bottom use not same imput of first card 290x
this is a problem ?


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andytom69*
> 
> yes xarot
> the 290x bottom use not same imput of first card 290x
> this is a problem ?


You can make it like this:


----------



## andytom69

mmmm beautiful... is a parallel mode?
best is rerial


----------



## Silent Scone

Thought I'd share this as it's the replacement for my long lived Supreme HF which has been a great water block. Love the look of the Supremacy full copper


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andytom69*
> 
> yes xarot
> the 290x bottom use not same imput of first card 290x
> this is a problem ?


Basically you are using serial flow now, not a problem at all. EK's multi-GPU serial terminals are connected this way too. For example...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1402501/help-me-understand-flow-thru-sli-bridges-series-vs-parallel

Hope this helps.


----------



## Eugenius

Ordered an EK x360 for my 5960x cooling. Can't wait to let it rip


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> Thought I'd share this as it's the replacement for my long lived Supreme HF which has been a great water block. Love the look of the Supremacy full copper


Might have been a slightly cleaner run if you put the QDC on the CPU block, like I did here:


----------



## Silent Scone

No, because you have to apply pressure. Looks don't take priority







. Also you can't see it there, but there is one on the top rad. Allows me to remove both CPU block and GPU block without draining.

Nice build though


----------



## derickwm

Pfft. Looks always take priority


----------



## Silent Scone

EKWB you say? Will EK Hydros be available soon after 980 launch?


----------



## Nichismo

Sup everyone, just thought id display my near finished X99 build....

The cabling hasnt been done, but i been so far behind and eager to do some new benchmarks that I just did a half ass job for the moment.


----------



## pathfindercod

Man ok so what cases are out that fits the new EK 180mm fan size rads?


----------



## VSG

Some silverstone cases, as well as the bigger CaseLabs ones. I can fit 2x 540mm radiators per pedestal in my case for example.


----------



## pathfindercod

Thanks geggeg.. I was looking at the CL th10a for my next build.. I'll research some more before I start the build..


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Thanks geggeg.. I was looking at the CL th10a for my next build.. I'll research some more before I start the build..


I have the TH10a and it's awesome, but the chassis itself will only fit 120 size rads. You would need the pedestal to fit larger rads and I would think if you fill the chassis with rads, then a pedestal on top of that, even by OCN standards your still in overkill territory


----------



## pathfindercod

I'm in for the overkill! My s8 is stuffed to the max.


----------



## Nichismo

Just couple more guys, I promise no more


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Just couple more guys, I promise no more


Nice build man, looking good!


----------



## sinnedone

Someone please tell me that I'm not going crazy here....

The backplate for the 1155 Supremacy is supposed to have threaded holes correct?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Wanted to share the white. Hope yall enjoy the Pastel


----------



## kael13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Just couple more guys, I promise no more


You're gonna have to take it all apart, you put it in the wrong way round!


----------



## lowfat

I feel like spamming here too.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I feel like spamming here too.


Still the most beautiful CPU block made so far.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Sup everyone, just thought id display my near finished X99 build....
> 
> The cabling hasnt been done, but i been so far behind and eager to do some new benchmarks that I just did a half ass job for the moment.


Great double loop!


----------



## Red1776

Some more EK action

The 5.25 bay side panel is getting an LED glass panel.


----------



## cstkl1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Someone please tell me that I'm not going crazy here....
> 
> The backplate for the 1155 Supremacy is supposed to have threaded holes correct?


I had that issue. Rmaed.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> I'm in for the overkill! My s8 is stuffed to the max.


You want a TH10A and I have one, and I keep looking at the S8 which you have, you always want what you don't have!


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Or ya know...


You guys need to seriously make a clear plexi D5 X-Res pump/res bottom.


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> You want a TH10A and I have one, and I keep looking at the S8 which you have, you always want what you don't have!


LOL true.. I like my s8 a lot. Just itching o do another build and really like the TH10A and it will be the case for my next build. I guess ill eventually own one of every case CL makes the way it is looking anyways.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> LOL true.. I like my s8 a lot. Just itching o do another build and really like the TH10A and it will be the case for my next build. I guess ill eventually own one of every case CL makes the way it is looking anyways.


I hear that! I'm going with a new S5 build next month. I just picked up two Darkside Rads, and a new MCP35 pump for it last week. I really want a horizontal motherboard build badly.


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I hear that! I'm going with a new S5 build next month. I just picked up two Darkside Rads, and a new MCP35 pump for it last week. I really want a horizontal motherboard build badly.


Sweet. I Absolutely love horizontal layouts, that's why I did the s8 first. I did a crazy build a Cooler baster XB for a client and just loved the horizontal layout form that point on.


----------



## szeged

eta on 980 waterblocks?


----------



## derickwm

Done for days, so whenever Nvidia launches the GPU.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Done for days, so whenever Nvidia launches the GPU.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Done for days, so whenever Nvidia launches the GPU.


well arent you just fancy then.

fine....eta on 980 classified block and will it cool the memory vrms this time seeing as they got stupidly hot last time.


----------



## derickwm

That's a question for somebody else


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That's a question for somebody else


So glad they switched to you guys for the watercooled versions. Now for that pesk NDA to expire/lift so we can see the deliciousness!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That's a question for somebody else


hello somebody else, can you tell me when the classified ek blocks will be ready? thanks.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Or ya know...


Why isn't this pump top available by itself?


----------



## suwit hrc thai

THE FORTRESS MARK I


----------



## derickwm

Because we like to tantalize you with sexy, but difficult to obtain, products..

@suwit hrc thai


----------



## Andre N

This is my Silverstone SG-08 TOXIC Mod

-I7 4770 K
-Asrock Z87e-ITX
-8Gb Corsair Vengeance LP
-GTX 770
-500 GB Samsung SSD
-Silverstone ST45SF-G

And of cause everything EK cooled


----------



## suwit hrc thai

Thank you derickwm


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suwit hrc thai*
> 
> THE FORTRESS MARK I
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Absolutely beautiful!!!!


----------



## akira749

YUMMY!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.ekwb.com/news/524/19/EK-unveils-revolutionary-new-NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-980-water-blocks/


----------



## VSG

Looks great too! I will be on the sidelines for now but still excited to see how this works out on water


----------



## Raul-7

Finally, no more VRM plates to ruin an otherwise great looking block.


----------



## lowfat

Block looks fantastic. But I am confused about this graph.


----------



## Nichismo

EK clean Plexi + Mayhems Pastel + nickel = WIN


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> You guys need to seriously make a clear plexi D5 X-Res pump/res bottom.


Yup, I have all csq blocks now and I actually want to switch to clear plexi, but there is no pump top available in clear plexi









Also why no full cover clear plexi blocks for gpu's?


----------



## DeXel

GTX 980 Hydro Copper.



I wonder if front plate is removable.


----------



## Silent Scone

Yes! EVGA and EK teaming up is the best news in the PC industry since Intel dropped netburst


----------



## Friction

Does anyone know why Ek haven't released any 970 water blocks yet? Is it because the 970 and 980 cards have the same design and the 980 water blocks will fit the 970 cards? I would like to get the EVGA GeForce GTX 970 FTW ACX 2.0 card with the EK-FC980 GTX - Acetal. Is that combination possible?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> GTX 980 Hydro Copper.
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if front plate is removable.


I can't find that anywhere on EK's site. Where did you find that image?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Finally, no more VRM plates to ruin an otherwise great looking block.


Finally ??? You mean just like 780ti, Titan, and 680 blocks before it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> Does anyone know why Ek haven't released any 970 water blocks yet? Is it because the 970 and 980 cards have the same design and the 980 water blocks will fit the 970 cards? I would like to get the EVGA GeForce GTX 970 FTW ACX 2.0 card with the EK-FC980 GTX - Acetal. Is that combination possible?


It seems like most 970's will have custom PCB designs. An EVGA 970 FTW having a 980 PCB is extremely unlikely.


----------



## Friction

It seems strange then that EK haven't released and 970 water blocks yet then seeing as though the 980 and 970 were released at the same time.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Finally ??? You mean just like 780ti, Titan, and 680 blocks before it.


Ya, but most of their previous offerings have that VRM plate on them.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> I can't find that anywhere on EK's site. Where did you find that image?


It's on EVGA site.

http://www.evga.com/articles/00872/EVGA-GeForce-GTX-980-970/#2989


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> It's on EVGA site.
> 
> http://www.evga.com/articles/00872/EVGA-GeForce-GTX-980-970/#2989


Funny how it's listed in the Accessories section and not in the water blocks section.
http://www.evga.com/Products/ProductList.aspx?type=2&family=Accessories+-+Hardware&chipset=Waterblock


----------



## TTheuns

I am a huge fan of the design used in the waterblocks for the R9 290X Vapor-X, GTX 780, GTX 780Ti and GTX 980:


Spoiler: Warning: Image!







But not so much of the block for the original R9 290(x) with the Nickel plate over the top:


Spoiler: Warning: Image!







Any way to get a smooth top like the Vapor-X's on a reference 290(x) waterblock?


----------



## WiSK

I'm ready... and already ordered the little nickel block. When are the backplates available?



(The horrible power cables are from a 2008! Zalman ZM600-HP)


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> I am a huge fan of the design used in the waterblocks for the R9 290X Vapor-X, GTX 780 and GTX 780Ti:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Image!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But not so much of the block for the original R9 290(x) with the Nickel plate over the top:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Image!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any way to get a smooth top like the Vapor-X's on a reference 290(x) waterblock?


No. The VRM bridge plates are there because of the design of the PCB. Historically, reference version Nvidia boards don't feature rows of tall caps to cross over so they don't need plates on the front. AMD and most costom PCB designs feature rows of tall caps, so the blocks need a bridge plate or they would have to be much thicker and heavier or not actively cool the VRM


----------



## VSG

You can re-use the stock backplate if you wish


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Yup, I have all csq blocks now and I actually want to switch to clear plexi, but there is no pump top available in clear plexi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also why no full cover clear plexi blocks for gpu's?


There is a clear plexi pump top, just not one that supports a reservoir.


----------



## Kimir

I'm curious about the new block design, does the flow direction matter? From the look of it, it's like it's going straight on the top of GPU core and exhausting on the 2 sides, exact?
what if you run it the other way around, with sli in serie for example, no influence on temperature?


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> There is a clear plexi pump top, just not one that supports a reservoir.


Nope, not seeing it









http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/d5-series.html


----------



## lowfat

Have 980 blocks been shipped to retailers yet?


----------



## Caziban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Have 980 blocks been shipped to retailers yet?


This is the question I have as well. Are there any 980 full blocks other than the EK ones? (Which are already sold out)


----------



## Jakusonfire

The 980 blocks are not likely to be sold out. Its just a quirk with EK where they list items before they are actually available for immediate shipping, so everything new is listed as out of stock at first. Give it a day or so and stock should appear.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The 980 blocks are not likely to be sold out. Its just a quirk with EK where they list items before they are actually available for immediate shipping, so everything new is listed as out of stock at first. *Give it a day or so and stock should appear.*


Pre-order only. Shipping starts September 26th 2014!
Source


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I'm curious about the new block design, does the flow direction matter? From the look of it, it's like it's going straight on the top of GPU core and exhausting on the 2 sides, exact?
> what if you run it the other way around, with sli in serie for example, no influence on temperature?


That is what I was wondering too. It seems that the design must be more directional than the previous simple cross flow design.


----------



## Caziban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Pre-order only. Shipping starts September 26th 2014!
> Source


Thanks for that info. I'm new to water-cooling: Is there any difference, performance-wise, between Acetal, Acetal+Nickel, or Nickel?

And do you guys think it's true that there's no performance decrease with these EK blocks if the flow is reversed?


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caziban*
> 
> Thanks for that info. I'm new to water-cooling: Is there any difference, performance-wise, between Acetal, Acetal+Nickel, or Nickel?


Nope, only look


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No. The VRM bridge plates are there because of the design of the PCB. Historically, reference version Nvidia boards don't feature rows of tall caps to cross over so they don't need plates on the front. AMD and most costom PCB designs feature rows of tall caps, so the blocks need a bridge plate or they would have to be much thicker and heavier or not actively cool the VRM


I had no idea they actually had a function, looks like I'm going to have to look for a way to paint it.

Thanks for sharing the knowledge


----------



## TTheuns

For all the people desperate for the SupremHF top desing for Supremacy and Supremacy EVO blocks, give this idea an upvote. This way we might have a little more chance to get it.
http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/supreme-hf-top-design-for-supremacy-and-supremacy-evo

Yes, the idea has been uploaded by me.
*Shameless self-promotion off*

EDIT: Sorry for double-posting!


----------



## ccRicers

Any guess as to when the 970 blocks come out?


----------



## Roxycon

just got my ek acrylic stuff, but im really intrigued to frost the tubes to match the frosting on my blocks







have anyone done this?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Any guess as to when the 970 blocks come out?


Check their FB page - Derick is going crazy with questions about the 970








Quote:


> For the third time " GTX 970 doesn't have a reference design so it will depends from model to model. Some of the cards will be compatible with our GTX 680 and GTX 760 water blocks."


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Check their FB page - Derick is going crazy with questions about the 970


Ah I see, guess I'm going for the more realistic option of using a universal GPU block, and heatsink the RAM. These 970 cards shouldn't produce a ton of heat anyways.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Ah I see, guess I'm going for the more realistic option of using a universal GPU block, and heatsink the RAM. These 970 cards shouldn't produce a ton of heat anyways.


A short-PCB-version 970 with a Thermosphere would be ideal for any watercooled SFF case


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> A short-PCB-version 970 with a Thermosphere would be ideal for any watercooled SFF case


I like the thermosphere as a middle-ground block. We may have to wait for the compatibility list to update, as there are only EVGA 970's at the moment. The only short 970 I know of is the Zotac. (edit) This EVGA blower model has a short PCB too.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I like the thermosphere as a middle-ground block. We may have to wait for the compatibility list to update, as there are only EVGA 970's at the moment. The only short 970 I know of is the Zotac. (edit) This EVGA blower model has a short PCB too.


It's the best looking universal I've seen...
 

EVGA, Gainward, Inno3D, Palit, Zotac all using short-PCBs on several models. Some of those are Euro brands, maybe some NA brands are also going to have models with the short PCB too.


----------



## derickwm

Sadly the Thermosphere is not compatible with short 970s due to it hitting the power connectors. We're looking into compatibility right now for 670 blocks.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Sadly the Thermosphere is not compatible with short 970s due to it hitting the power connectors. We're looking into compatibility right now for 670 blocks.


Ah, good to know!


----------



## Shogon

The universal block doesn't seem so bad honestly.









I'm usually looking for full blocks though so I'm hoping an older one will work with the 970, specifically the one in the step-up queue, 04G-P4-0972-KR.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> The universal block doesn't seem so bad honestly.


Yeah, it's a cheap option, and these cards shouldn't get too hot anyways.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Yeah, it's a cheap option, and these cards shouldn't get too hot anyways.


Very true. Hopefully the Thermosphere works with the 970, on the config site only the Supremacy ones show up.


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

EK FC R9 290X waterblock not the rev 2 will fit Asus r9 290x reference model right? Just want to make sure before I make the trade on my Sapphire r9 290 tri x to asus r9 290X reference.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paopawdecarabao*
> 
> EK FC R9 290X waterblock not the rev 2 will fit Asus r9 290x reference model right? Just want to make sure before I make the trade on my Sapphire r9 290 tri x to asus r9 290X reference.


check http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Welp. I underestimated how many EVGA 970s there were.
> 
> For now only these ones are guaranteed to be getting blocks:


According to http://eu.evga.com/articles/00872/EVGA-GeForce-GTX-980-970/ there will be 8 total. The 6 listed on coolingconfigurator, plus SSC and FTW models. Those two you've missed have the highest clocks, so likely the most in need of a block?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Welp. I underestimated how many EVGA 970s there were.
> 
> For now only these ones are guaranteed to be getting blocks:
> 
> 
> 
> According to http://eu.evga.com/articles/00872/EVGA-GeForce-GTX-980-970/ there will be 8 total. The 6 listed on coolingconfigurator, plus SSC and FTW models. Those two you've missed have the highest clocks, so likely the most in need of a block?
Click to expand...

You're never happy are you WiSK 

We're working very closely with EVGA and the final list of models that will be receiving custom non-ref blocks is still TBD. All I know is that the 4 I posted yesterday have plans to receive blocks.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You're never happy are you WiSK


I'm deliriously happy, just got a GTX980 and the block for that is coming next week









Was just trying to be helpful











Spoiler: The fun never ends!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robin*
> Why not a full block, EK ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK Water Blocks*
> This is getting ridiculous.


----------



## Eugenius

Got my EK 360 kit running. I guess this kit isn't considered an AIO?









What a huge difference in quality and build and mostly performance over the H110i I had before it.

Threw on some iPPC Noctua fans and now my 4.5ghz, 1.35v 5960x doesn't break 72C on the hottest core (spread of about 63-72C)

Only down side is that the kit that was sold to me on FrozenCPU had the old supremacy block and NOT the new EVO version, even though the updated version has the same EAN barcode for the box kit... ? FrozenCPU told me it must have not been updated for them... I figured I would keep this, although I was hoping for the EVO.


----------



## derickwm

Sorry to hear that Eugenius, it must have been an older kit that was assembled pre-evo. There are upgrade kits available, maybe next time you place an order from FCPU.


----------



## Eugenius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Sorry to hear that Eugenius, it must have been an older kit that was assembled pre-evo. There are upgrade kits available, maybe next time you place an order from FCPU.


It's a bummer. The same price. Just an old kit. Kind of not fair really. They won't RMA just the block. I would need to pay return shipping and send back the entire kit. And there is no eta for the updated one.


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eugenius*
> 
> It's a bummer. The same price. Just an old kit. Kind of not fair really. They won't RMA just the block. I would need to pay return shipping and send back the entire kit. And there is no eta for the updated one.


I have a backorder of EK products at FCPU and they said they will receive the new EK shipments on Monday.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eugenius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Sorry to hear that Eugenius, it must have been an older kit that was assembled pre-evo. There are upgrade kits available, maybe next time you place an order from FCPU.
> 
> 
> 
> It's a bummer. The same price. Just an old kit. Kind of not fair really. They won't RMA just the block. I would need to pay return shipping and send back the entire kit. And there is no eta for the updated one.
Click to expand...

http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=M2WmtoWp&searchspec=EK+evo+upgrade+kit&go.x=0&go.y=0


----------



## Silent Scone

Any word of 980 stock? Also do we know if you're able to retain the stock backplate?

On the off chance someone's read something


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> Any word of 980 stock? Also do we know if you're able to retain the stock backplate?
> 
> On the off chance someone's read something


Yes, it says on the product page in red letters "Pre-order only. Shipping starts September 26th 2014" and it also says "Block is mounted with enclosed M2.5 DIN7985 screws and allows for re-use of the original NVIDIA backplate."


----------



## Eugenius

Guess the upgrade kit works.. haha didn't see that...


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> EK-FC980 GTX Backplate - Nickel - 37.95€


Is there any pictures of this floating around? I'm kinda interested.


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Yes, it says on the product page in red letters "Pre-order only. Shipping starts September 26th 2014" and it also says "Block is mounted with enclosed M2.5 DIN7985 screws and allows for re-use of the original NVIDIA backplate."


Not sure how I didn't spot that! I'm going to go ahead and say it wasn't there on my phone









Awesome, thanks.

I went for Acetal full cover this time. Regretted it last time.


----------



## sprower

Cedar + Vintage EK anyone? Also apples


----------



## gdubc




----------



## tSgt

EK, bring the god damn HF top back !









Nice block Sprower


----------



## akira749

EK Awesomeness for my Xenomorph!!!!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

The more I see those PE rads, the more I like them!


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> EK, bring the god damn HF top back !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice block Sprower


Thanks but I can only take credit for the mounting plate cover.









@akira749 hot damn.. can't wait to see them in the xeno


----------



## derickwm

<3


----------



## Pheozero

So, acrylic block for the next gen Lightnings? Yay? Nay?

When they appea, that is


----------



## derickwm

Too early to say much on the topic.


----------



## hiarc

Does anyone know the hole spacing on the EK pump bracket (120 version)?


----------



## Hukkel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suwit hrc thai*
> 
> THE FORTRESS MARK I


That is epicness, great colour theme.


----------



## andytom69

are not very happy with the product SBAY EK-DDC 3.2 PWM
after a few weeks he started to make a noise too high compared to the whole system
I recorded a file with whistle and ek told me that it is normal, I think changing product


----------



## snef

first test fit

all waterblock, pump and res will be EK clean Acetal

just love the mat finish of Acetal and perfect for this build


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Snef not doing an all white build??? I call shenanigans!









Lookin good!


----------



## tSgt

Niiiiiiiiice !

Finally something else than Black/Red. Gonna jump into this build log for sure !


----------



## snef

Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Snef not doing an all white build??? I call shenanigans!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lookin good!


loll









a buble in my brain when I choose the case hahahahha

no, seriously, a super great friend give me the case as gift, (not a sponsor from company)

and already have a lot of stuff in my closet, why not

this one will be for sale after I finish it


----------



## Kimir

Yis, yellow my fav color. clean acetal also and is this a Phanteks case? I like all dis.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> first test fit
> 
> all waterblock, pump and res will be EK clean Acetal
> 
> just love the mat finish of Acetal and perfect for this build
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Absolutely gorgeous! Where's the build log to subscribe to? ^_^


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Absolutely gorgeous! Where's the build log to subscribe to? ^_^


Snef's Project Renegade X


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Snef's Project Renegade X


Many thanks. He hasn't been putting his builds in his sig lately


----------



## sinnedone

Pretty excited here to be working with my first EK products on my first custom loop build.


----------



## VSG

Great pictures and great components too


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Pretty excited here to be working with my first EK products on my first custom loop build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Subbed


----------



## sinnedone

Thanks guys. Its pretty hard to get decent pictures with cell phones lol.


----------



## VSG

Lighting > camera for product photography, just as lens > body for cameras.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Lighting > camera for product photography, just as lens > body for cameras.


Agreed. It's hard getting decent photos in my bedroom where the CFL lamp bulb is the only light in the room and thus doesn't distribute light from the ceiling.


----------



## VSG

I have some of the worst lighting in my rooms upstairs, huge reason why I ended up getting a table studio.


----------



## sinnedone

I agree about the lighting. For those pictures I was getting some good natural light through a glass sliding door and as soon as I started taking pictures an afternoon thunderstorm starts rolling in. lol

Might see if I can get one of those small lighting boxes from amazon.


----------



## ccRicers

For very small parts, I'll probably use printer paper as background


----------



## snef

Battery and I/O are now Black and installed ram and ram's block


----------



## lowfat

Black battery and IO master race.









Such easy mods yet no one does it.


----------



## sinnedone

Don't worry, I'll be copying both of you in a bit.







Credits where credits are due of course.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Don't worry, I'll be copying both of you in a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Credits where credits are due of course.


Pfft.. Way ahead of you, I already have plenty of various plastidip and spray paints here with me


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Pfft.. Way ahead of you, I already have plenty of various plastidip and spray paints here with me


lol same here.









I hate having to buy all these blacks just to find the right amount of matte with a little semi gloss I want ugh.


----------



## VSG

You want glossy? Clear coat.


----------



## BradleyW

When can we expect blocks for the GTX 980's and possibly for R9 390X's?


----------



## VSG

980 blocks supposedly shipping on the 26th, and 390x isn't even announced lol. Do you know something we dont?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 980 blocks supposedly shipping on the 26th, and 390x isn't even announced lol. Do you know something we dont?


errrmmmm......No? (Oops)!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You want glossy? Clear coat.


No, I'm trying to find a simple matte black with a little bit of sheen to it without being semi gloss. They're either too shiny or too matte. Matt clear isn't doing it either. I actually have many paints in my garage from different car projects, so I have my favorites. They're simply not matching well enough to something I'm trying to match up.


----------



## BradleyW

What about blocks for the 5960X?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> errrmmmm......No? (Oops)!





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So true....lol.
How about the 5960X blocks? When can we expect those lovely beasts?


----------



## VSG

Any CPU block that works with LGA 2011 will work for LGA 2011-3


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Any CPU block that works with LGA 2011 will work for LGA 2011-3


Ahh, I see. Thank you.

I'm struggling with designing a water cooling layout for the 900D. I plan on 5960X with either 980 Ti SLI or 390X CFX. (Yes, I did say Ti and 390X lol).
I made a thread in the WC section about my 900D possible build. Feel free to check it out and comment. Suggestions will be very useful. Thank you.


----------



## mus1mus

Not sure why, but is it even possible for a 670 Block to fit a 970?



Edit: INDEEED


----------



## derickwm

@BradleyW read the news man... GTX980s and 5960x have been confirmed/done for a bit.

Forums seem to have made people forget how to use Google.


----------



## VSG

Speaking of news, another survey from EK Facebook : https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/EK-Hardware-Survey

Apparently 5 shirts to random guys which is good enough for me lol


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Speaking of news, another survey from EK Facebook : https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/EK-Hardware-Survey
> 
> Apparently 5 shirts to random guys which is good enough for me lol


I like how every other options is "are you crazy?"


----------



## VSG

Pretty obvious who made that survey


----------



## lowfat

I must say that is a nice picture of a Thermosphere in the survey.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Pretty obvious who made that survey


I loved the fact that CaseLabs was at the bottom of the "Which case manufacturer do you prefer" question


----------



## Erra

Finished my first (full EK) Loop









http://build101.smugmug.com/Sample-Gallery/


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erra*
> 
> Finished my first (full EK) Loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://build101.smugmug.com/Sample-Gallery/

















I love green builds.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Ek was promising full cover motherboard waterblocks for X99 "towards the end of September" We're coming up on week 4 of September. Do we have any news or pictures of the blocks for the Asus X99 motherboards?


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Ek was promising full cover motherboard waterblocks for X99 "towards the end of September" We're coming up on week 4 of September. Do we have any news or pictures of the blocks for the Asus X99 motherboards?


You won't see any for the Deluxe, possibly only the ROG.

The placement of the CMOS battery on the Deluxe is an issue


----------



## derickwm

Dexlue and WS may receive VRM blocks.

RVE is being worked on, that's all I have to report as of right now.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Any word on the msi x99 xpower blocks? It was mentioned in the same news article as the asus x99 blocks ^-^


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Dexlue and WS _may_ receive VRM blocks.
> 
> RVE is being worked on, that's all I have to report as of right now.


The RVE is all I care about. any word on when we might see something?


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Ek was promising full cover motherboard waterblocks for X99 "towards the end of September" We're coming up on week 4 of September. Do we have any news or pictures of the blocks for the Asus X99 motherboards?
> 
> 
> 
> You won't see any for the Deluxe, possibly only the ROG.
> 
> The placement of the CMOS battery on the Deluxe is an issue
Click to expand...

Where's the CMOS battery? I can't find it anywhere haha.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Where's the CMOS battery? I can't find it anywhere haha.


Just at the right side of the middle heatsink from the Chipset.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> @BradleyW
> read the news man... GTX980s and 5960x have been confirmed/done for a bit.
> 
> Forums seem to have made people forget how to use Google.


Nothing wrong with consulting with fellow water cooling peers in the EK section.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Nothing wrong with consulting with fellow water cooling peers in the EK section.


That's his way of giving out info, don't mind him


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's his way of giving out info, don't mind him


I'm sure I will get use to it.


----------



## Recr3ational

Hey guys,
I've been having issues for the past 4 months regarding my top gpu. I was wondering if the EK-FC bridge in parrallel can cause some kind of blockage or trapped air in the top gpu?
Or some kind of flow resistance?

Here's my thread about it.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1515060/overheating-280x-underwater-tried-everything#post_22900567

Any advice would be awesome. Thanks.


----------



## snef

Thanks

now with GPU and e little idea of the tubing


----------



## BECHEZ

Is it possible to go tripple parallel with 2 GPUs (Short 970's) with a clear bridge and the cpu as paralleled of the GPUs with EK parts?


----------



## derickwm

Sure, just get a blank for the empty GPU slot.


----------



## BECHEZ

Sorry I forgot to say with a clear bridge as the 2 670 cards I have are clear CSQ's and I haven't found a clear bridge with 2 in and 2 outs?


----------



## HRCSHOP

*Hi there i kind a new guy in here

so i saw some of you do the polish and we love it so here form our work

is that good? so you could find more our work at our FB try to follow the mark on the PHOTO!!!

thanks a lot i'll try to post update in here







*


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BECHEZ*
> 
> Sorry I forgot to say with a clear bridge as the 2 670 cards I have are clear CSQ's and I haven't found a clear bridge with 2 in and 2 outs?


Post some products link because I don't think we're on the same page.


----------



## BECHEZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Post some products link because I don't think we're on the same page.


This is what I need with 2 in and out, is there a clear option? http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-bridges-links/ek-fc-bridge-dual-parallel.html
This is the right material but doesn't appear to have the 2 in 2 out I want http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-dual-parallel-csq-plexi.html


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HRCSHOP*
> 
> *Hi there i kind a new guy in here
> 
> so i saw some of you do the polish and we love it so here form our work
> 
> is that good? so you could find more our work at our FB try to follow the mark on the PHOTO!!!
> 
> thanks a lot i'll try to post update in here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome polishing job!








and welcome to OCN


----------



## VSG

Ah, clear terminals. They are in the making from what EK reps told us last.


----------



## BECHEZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ah, clear terminals. They are in the making from what EK reps told us last.


Thats good as it will be a while before I get my second 970, more time to save more to spend on WCing.....


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BECHEZ*
> 
> This is what I need with 2 in and out, is there a clear option? http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-bridges-links/ek-fc-bridge-dual-parallel.html
> This is the right material but doesn't appear to have the 2 in 2 out I want http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-dual-parallel-csq-plexi.html


Get yourself a G1/4 tap and add ports wherever you need them.

The CSQ and Terminal style bridges use a different design style that tries to minimise and recess/hide unused ports so a factory version of what you describe isn't made.
EK does have a service whereby custom sized bridges can be made for unusual multi card arrangements so that might be worth exploring if you aren't handy with tools. It would be very easy to do though.


----------



## BECHEZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Get yourself a G1/4 tap and add ports wherever you need them.
> 
> The CSQ and Terminal style bridges use a different design style that tries to minimise and recess/hide unused ports so a factory version of what you describe isn't made.
> EK does have a service whereby custom sized bridges can be made for unusual multi card arrangements so that might be worth exploring if you aren't handy with tools. It would be very easy to do though.


DIY is a good option, only issue is that I have never tapped acrylic, it won't be hard to drill out the 2 ports at the bottom just the tapping as the untried bit worries me.

I am in no hurry so I can wait for EK to make some, if not I will get a tap and get some practice have a go and post the results once done.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BECHEZ*
> 
> DIY is a good option, only issue is that I have never tapped acrylic, it won't be hard to drill out the 2 ports at the bottom just the tapping as the untried bit worries me.
> 
> I am in no hurry so I can wait for EK to make some, if not I will get a tap and get some practice have a go and post the results once done.


Tapping plastic is super easy. To get the ports in the right place and straight the best option would be to drill through from the top of the block, continuing where the factory drills. Rather than drilling in from the bottom. Then just tap the holes in the bottom.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erra*
> 
> Finished my first (full EK) Loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://build101.smugmug.com/Sample-Gallery/


Really dig that wide angle









Nice build


----------



## snef

I need a wide angle now, ahhhhhh


----------



## BradleyW

I'm looking forward to see the GTX 980 water blocks. Not sure if I should wait for the 980 Ti and the 390X instead of jumping on the 980 bandwagon.


----------



## HRCSHOP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Awesome polishing job!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and welcome to OCN


*thank you sir







*


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I'm looking forward to see the GTX 980 water blocks. Not sure if I should wait for the 980 Ti and the 390X instead of jumping on the 980 bandwagon.


I am more curious about the GTX 970 blocks, myself. derickwm showed a render on a revised 670/970 block.


----------



## Pheozero

I wonder how many questions Derick gets about the 970 a day?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I'm looking forward to see the GTX 980 water blocks. Not sure if I should wait for the 980 Ti and the 390X instead of jumping on the 980 bandwagon.


I'm "lucky" in that regard... My next major hardware upgrade isn't until q1 2015 so it's slightly easier to wait for the shinier even prettier cards ^-^;;;


----------



## SuprUsrStan

http://www.ekwb.com/news/516/19/EK-announces-Intel-Socket-R3-LGA-2011-3-compatibility/
Quote:


> EK Water Blocks is also working on a collection of Full Board (and other types of) water blocks for the latest ASUS (Rampage V Extreme), GIGABYTE (GA-X99-SOC Force, GA-X99-Gaming G1, GA-X99-UD7, GA-X99-UD5, ...) and MSI (MSI X99S XPower AC) Intel® X99 Express based motherboards with *availability by the end of September 2014*. More details will be disclosed in the upcoming weeks via EK Social Media websites.


Are you still going to make this "deadline" or is it delayed?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> I wonder how many questions Derick gets about the 970 a day?


Too many.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/516/19/EK-announces-Intel-Socket-R3-LGA-2011-3-compatibility/
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> EK Water Blocks is also working on a collection of Full Board (and other types of) water blocks for the latest ASUS (Rampage V Extreme), GIGABYTE (GA-X99-SOC Force, GA-X99-Gaming G1, GA-X99-UD7, GA-X99-UD5, ...) and MSI (MSI X99S XPower AC) Intel® X99 Express based motherboards with *availability by the end of September 2014*. More details will be disclosed in the upcoming weeks via EK Social Media websites.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you still going to make this "deadline" or is it delayed?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately the 980 launch has kept us quite busy and the X99 blocks will be around in October.


----------



## Silent Scone

I fully expect to get mine either very late next week or into the following week. I can sense the amount of orders has been crazy


----------



## derickwm

Depends when you ordered honestly... The orders will be going out on a first come - first serve basis.


----------



## BranField

Ordered my supremecy evo nickel and 290x vaporx block and backplate yesterday. Now all that is left is to choose fittings and order coolant fittings and tubing. Super exited for my first water project


----------



## Hefner

@derickwm, you mentioned that EK will be releasing a more radiators in PE style in the upcoming 6 months. Do you know if there will be a multiport version?

I'm about to make a purchase, however, I might hold off if there will be a PE multiport radiator.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/516/19/EK-announces-Intel-Socket-R3-LGA-2011-3-compatibility/
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> EK Water Blocks is also working on a collection of Full Board (and other types of) water blocks for the latest ASUS (Rampage V Extreme), GIGABYTE (GA-X99-SOC Force, GA-X99-Gaming G1, GA-X99-UD7, GA-X99-UD5, ...) and MSI (MSI X99S XPower AC) Intel® X99 Express based motherboards with *availability by the end of September 2014*. More details will be disclosed in the upcoming weeks via EK Social Media websites.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you still going to make this "deadline" or is it delayed?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Unfortunately the 980 launch has kept us quite busy and the X99 blocks will be around in October.
Click to expand...

Okay, thanks. That's exactly what I was looking for. I currently have my acrylic tubed rig hosed up with soft tubing around the CPU block just waiting for the motherboard blocks to drop.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

what cpu groupo is the supremacy J3 plate for it looks like it has a larger hole so I want to use it but I dunno...


----------



## Asus11

is there any specific ram kit I need to water-cool the ram?


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> is there any specific ram kit I need to water-cool the ram?


I've never used the monarch modules myself but from what I read around here all you need is ram with memory chips on both sides of the stick.


----------



## Asus11

Have EK stopped making an Monarch x2 Nickel Plexi Clean CSQ?


----------



## Razarach

Can someone tell me length of EK-TOP Plexi - VGA Supreme HF Bridge Edition?
Also, can I use this with that supreme hf top above?

Thanks.


----------



## Ragsters

Can someone answer this for me? I am thinking of crossfireing my 7970 and want an EK bridge to do so. I currently have the Maximus V Formula. Check out my sig rig picture for reference.

1. Which bridge do I need? Dual or Triple slot?

2. Should I get parallel or Serial?

3. Where are the g1/4 holes and does it matter where my fittings go? What I mean is do the locations have to be alternating?


----------



## Roxycon

1. triple slot dual bridge

2. down to your preference

3. the csq serial are on the bottom right and top right, parallel is top left and bottom right


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 1. triple slot dual bridge
> 
> 2. down to your preference
> 
> 3. the csq serial are on the bottom right and top right, parallel is top left and bottom right


Thank you so very much!







+rep


----------



## VSG

Looks like you will need the triple slot bridge. I'd go serial in most cases unless you have a lot of restriction in the loop leading to low flow. With a series connector your ports would be in the top and bottom (interchangeable as inlet/outlet) and with parallel there will be ports in the top and side.

Edit:


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like you will need the triple slot bridge. I'd go serial in most cases unless you have a lot of restriction in the loop leading to low flow. With a series connector your ports would be in the top and bottom (interchangeable as inlet/outlet) and with parallel there will be ports in the top and side.
> 
> Edit:


Do you know which side and which tops. (Left or Right?) Oh and +rep for you too


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Do you know which side and which tops. (Left or Right?) Oh and +rep for you too


IIRC it's top right and bottom right..


----------



## VSG

The instructions on the EK webshop say what ports can be inlet or outlet for each bridge/terminal.


----------



## TTheuns

I am sorry to ask you guys this again if it has already been asked, but is there a clean CSQ version of the FC Bridge. Three EK-FC R9 290X blocks will be connected with a 1.6" slot spacing.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> is there any specific ram kit I need to water-cool the ram?


corsair is what monarch is modeled after. I personally use patriot


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> I am sorry to ask you guys this again if it has already been asked, but is there a clean CSQ version of the FC Bridge. Three EK-FC R9 290X blocks will be connected with a 1.6" slot spacing.


Soon-ish.


----------



## snef

another Update

installed RGB led

and tubing is done, leak test for the night













now , night shots







pretty much done,

still some little thing to do


----------



## Cyberpunk71

Hi,

I'm Currently Water cooling a core i7 950 running at 3.8Ghz @ 1.19v and my Asus HD7970 Matrix running at 1150 @ 1288mv, I'm using an EK Supremacy Evo for CPU & an EK full cover block for the GPU.
Loop Order is BayRes/Pump to CPU, CPU to GPU, GPU to RAD, RAD to BayRes.

I'm using a D5 Vario pump on setting 3 and a Alphacool nexXxos all copper 360 Rad. I've tried to keep my Tubing runs as short as possible without Kinking and I'm using 19/13mm Tubing with Monsoon Compression Fittings.

At Idle my temps seem to settle around the 32-34c mark at 23c room temp, this is on both CPU & GPU, Whilst running BF4 for a few maps typically gets CPU to 61c and GPU to 73c, everything is stable and no glitching occurs which I guess is what matters most but do these temps seem realistic to those of you with water cooling experience? Thanks


----------



## WiSK

Snef, it's so well made, good attention to detail. And such a quick build.


----------



## Ragsters

Im sure this was mentioned earlier but does EK have plans to make new GTX 970 blocks?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Im sure this was mentioned earlier but does EK have plans to make new GTX 970 blocks?


@derickwm will be overjoyed to answer all your questions about 970 blocks


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> @derickwm will be overjoyed to answer all your questions about 970 blocks


Poor Derick lol, I don't even want to know how many times he got this question ask


----------



## gdubc

Serves em' right for all the "coming soon"s...


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> @derickwm will be overjoyed to answer all your questions about 970 blocks


I would rather not bother him with a question that I am sure he has been asked before. I just thought someone might point me to the right direction.


----------



## VSG

970s are mostly non-reference cards, so I imagine there will be blocks for some of them as usual.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I would rather not bother him with a question that I am sure he has been asked before. I just thought someone might point me to the right direction.


http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/


----------



## Nichismo




----------



## Nichismo

Hey guys

was wondering if anyone out there with any photo editing skills could put a transparent or even just a normal EKWB logo (but without it being pasted on with a solid square background) in the lower left/right corner of this picture?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyberpunk71*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm Currently Water cooling a core i7 950 running at 3.8Ghz @ 1.19v and my Asus HD7970 Matrix running at 1150 @ 1288mv, I'm using an EK Supremacy Evo for CPU & an EK full cover block for the GPU.
> Loop Order is BayRes/Pump to CPU, CPU to GPU, GPU to RAD, RAD to BayRes.
> 
> I'm using a D5 Vario pump on setting 3 and a Alphacool nexXxos all copper 360 Rad. I've tried to keep my Tubing runs as short as possible without Kinking and I'm using 19/13mm Tubing with Monsoon Compression Fittings.
> 
> At Idle my temps seem to settle around the 32-34c mark at 23c room temp, this is on both CPU & GPU, Whilst running BF4 for a few maps typically gets CPU to 61c and GPU to 73c, everything is stable and no glitching occurs which I guess is what matters most but do these temps seem realistic to those of you with water cooling experience? Thanks


Why only setting 3 on the D5 Vario? I run mine at Setting 5 24/7 through 2 rads. A 360 and a 240mm Ut 60 Alphacool Rad. Your temps on the Gpu seem high for what you have cooled. The temps on the processor are outstanding but you are only using 1.19v which isn't much. I am maxing out at around 67c on heavy gaming apps right now at 4.5ghz with 1.275 core v on the 4770k.

I feel like your Gpu temps could be in the early 50-60c range

EDIT: And my temps reflect Cpu only. My gpu isn't under water....Yet


----------



## Aznlotus161

I've been gathering a lot of ideas from various users here and there, thought EK club could give me some sound advice.

Any critiques or suggestions to where I should place my drain valve?




Other critiques are more than welcomed as I'm pretty new to this stuff.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> I've been gathering a lot of ideas from various users here and there, thought EK club could give me some sound advice.
> 
> Any critiques or suggestions to where I should place my drain valve?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other critiques are more than welcomed as I'm pretty new to this stuff.


place drain valve on the outlet of the pump or soon after on the outlet side.
Also the lower the better


----------



## VSG

Ya, a T fitting with a drain valve on the 3rd end (with the other two being the pump and your compression fitting/tubing) would be great.


----------



## Ragsters

When was the last time we got any information about:

1. New PE rads. When and what?

2. MSI Itx motherboard/CPU block? I think you guys cancelled this.

3. GTX 970 blocks. I know, I know everyone is sick of hearing about this.


----------



## Cyberpunk71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Why only setting 3 on the D5 Vario? I run mine at Setting 5 24/7 through 2 rads. A 360 and a 240mm Ut 60 Alphacool Rad. Your temps on the Gpu seem high for what you have cooled. The temps on the processor are outstanding but you are only using 1.19v which isn't much. I am maxing out at around 67c on heavy gaming apps right now at 4.5ghz with 1.275 core v on the 4770k.
> 
> I feel like your Gpu temps could be in the early 50-60c range
> 
> EDIT: And my temps reflect Cpu only. My gpu isn't under water....Yet


Hi,

Thanks for your thoughts on this, I haven't tried altering pump settings and benchmarking to see if there's a difference so will give that a go, Also the Tim that came with my Supreme Evo was Gelid GC-Extreme which I believe is good stuff, but not so sure as to the quality of the Tim that came with the GPU block, don't think it was Gelid, but I went and used it anyway:doh:


----------



## Yey09

Hi everyone!

Anyone have a temp comparison on the EK GTX 770 DC2OC water block to the stock cooler fans?


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> 
> Anyone have a temp comparison on the EK GTX 770 DC2OC water block to the stock cooler fans?


I dont have an actual solid numbers/illustration comparison, but I own two of those blocks and had two of the GPUs for them for quite a while, and I rarely exceeded 50c in my LC setup, whereas the stock air cooler, passing 80c is commonplace. the idle temperatures with the stock cooler are higher than load temps with the FC waterblock


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyberpunk71*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Thanks for your thoughts on this, I haven't tried altering pump settings and benchmarking to see if there's a difference so will give that a go, Also the Tim that came with my Supreme Evo was Gelid GC-Extreme which I believe is good stuff, but not so sure as to the quality of the Tim that came with the GPU block, don't think it was Gelid, but I went and used it anyway:doh:


CRANK THAT BABY UP TO SETTING 5!! You will see it sucking down some fluid!!


----------



## Eugenius

I have the XTX 360 on my 900d on the top mount. I have 3 iPPC Noctua fans pushing air into the case

Is this the best orientation for the rad and fans? Meaning: top mount intake with just push...

I don't have space with my RVE to put 3 more pull fans.


----------



## VSG

Pretty much.


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eugenius*
> 
> I have the XTX 360 on my 900d on the top mount. I have 3 iPPC Noctua fans pushing air into the case
> 
> Is this the best orientation for the rad and fans? Meaning: top mount intake with just push...
> 
> I don't have space with my RVE to put 3 more pull fans.


A top mount used for intake always seems unnatural to me. With heat rising and all that.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> A top mount used for intake always seems unnatural to me. With heat rising and all that.


PCs are a forced air environment. Air will flow whichever direction it is forced. Heat rising isn't something you have to worry about.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> A top mount used for intake always seems unnatural to me. With heat rising and all that.


If you have decent airflow, then natural convection is not as big a factor as forced convection. The heat rising and cold air at the bottom parts needn't be a factor, and I bet having rads in intake would perform better there.

Edit:


----------



## Eugenius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> A top mount used for intake always seems unnatural to me. With heat rising and all that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> PCs are a forced air environment. Air will flow whichever direction it is forced. Heat rising isn't something you have to worry about.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you have decent airflow, then natural convection is not as big a factor as forced convection. The heat rising and cold air at the bottom parts needn't be a factor, and I bet having rads in intake would perform better there.
> 
> Edit:


So is my orientation okay? What would be a better setup?


----------



## VSG

I'd say you are fine as it is.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eugenius*
> 
> So is my orientation okay? What would be a better setup?


I'm not here to comment on your orientation, but you're good bro.


----------



## VSG

lol that puts my post above in a different light also


----------



## HRCSHOP

Hi There

hope you guys like its




















you can find us on the water mark on those Photo [FB] !!!!

Thx.


----------



## Silent Scone

Very neat


----------



## derickwm

Beautiful!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Was getting temps on my EVGA 780 FTW playing Middle Earth at 2560x1440p averaging 55 fps: 80c. After instal of the Thermosphere: 48c tops (on the Gpu) Processor = 67c Running 4770k at 4.5ghz with 1.275v .


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Has EK given an estimated date on the chipset blocks for Rampage V Extreme motherboard?


----------



## friskiest

Soon™


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Sadly the Thermosphere is not compatible with short 970s due to it hitting the power connectors. We're looking into compatibility right now for 670 blocks.


Quoting a sort of old quote but I find this statement more interesting now. The compatibility list of the Thermosphere shows a few cards, either long or short, that share the same distance between the bracket holes and power connectors as the short 970's. Some examples are EVGA GeForce GTX 760 ACX Cooler 2GB GDDR5 (02G-P4-3769) and EVGA GeForce GTX 670 /w Backplate 4GB GDDR5 (04G-P4-2671).

The placement of the bracket holes and power connectors are the same in the short 970 cards. This leads me to believe that the GPU list isn't still complete (not surprising since the Thermosphere is just a few months old). In fact 



 being installed on a Palit 660 Ti which is not on the list.

I hope to see if there is any physical attempt to try the Thermosphere in at least one of the short 970 cards.


----------



## DeviousAddict

Hey guys, just joined









This is my 1st time water-cooling so i went with the EK-Kit L240 for now, i will be upgrading parts slowly in the future as i get more confident (plan to use straight pipe as it looks tidy)








Additionally i bought some clear tubing (its black in the kit) and some Mayhem pastel ice white coolant because it looks sweet









I'll be posting pics and video to my (long/slow running) build log once I've finished it all









Any way cheers guys.

Edit: forgot to add link to build log.....Here


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> Hey guys, just joined
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my 1st time water-cooling so i went with the EK-Kit L240 for now, i will be upgrading parts slowly in the future as i get more confident (plan to use straight pipe as it looks tidy)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Additionally i bought some clear tubing (its black in the kit) and some Mayhem pastel ice white coolant because it looks sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be posting pics and video to my (long/slow running) build log once I've finished it all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any way cheers guys.
> 
> Edit: forgot to add link to build log.....Here


Welcome









Thats a fantastic kit and you should be on a great start with it. Be patient though, theres so many great products and inspiration out there, its easy to get caught up in the hype and be impulsive (I made this mistake so much). Have fun









oh and ive got pre-mixed Mayhems Ice White pastel in my CPU loop


----------



## DeviousAddict

Cheers for the welcom nichismo








I've got a snag im hoping you lot can help with. I've taken my old air cooler off and now I cant get the standoffs off








They just pushed on, I've tried pin nose pliers but the won't budge.

Any ideas?


----------



## Eugenius

Question: what's the best header to use for the ek pump and rad fans?

I am currently putting my pump in the cpu header and all my rad fans on cpu opt and setting them on PWM in RVE bios. The RVE uses the same temp curve for both of these cpu fan headers.

Sound good or is there a better set up?


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eugenius*
> 
> Question: what's the best header to use for the ek pump and rad fans?
> 
> I am currently putting my pump in the cpu header and all my rad fans on cpu opt and setting them on PWM in RVE bios. The RVE uses the same temp curve for both of these cpu fan headers.
> 
> Sound good or is there a better set up?


what is the power rating (watts) of your pump? I believe most mobo fan header is at 1.0amp max.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HRCSHOP*
> 
> Hi There
> 
> hope you guys like its
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning:Images!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you can find us on the water mark on those Photo [FB] !!!!
> 
> Thx.


The only non-red Asus boards ever, and they end up in a black and red build








But still, that is a really impressive build. Keep it up!


----------



## Eugenius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> what is the power rating (watts) of your pump? I believe most mobo fan header is at 1.0amp max.


I have the EK-DDC 3.2 PWM Elite Edition it uses a molex connector as well as 4 pin pwm. I just want to make sure it's the best to put th pump in the cpu fan header and use it with pwm settings.. The rad fans are in the cpu opt header. So they are all controlled by the same temp curve


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eugenius*
> 
> I have the EK-DDC 3.2 PWM Elite Edition it uses a molex connector as well as 4 pin pwm. I just want to make sure it's the best to put th pump in the cpu fan header and use it with pwm settings.. The rad fans are in the cpu opt header. So they are all controlled by the same temp curve


Just keep it running at full, I don't think its necessary to control the pump.


----------



## Yey09

I have the 3.2 pump as well but the 18w version and non-pwm, the mobo header is not enough to run this pump it needs at least a 1.5 amp source to run it on maximum


----------



## Yey09

I think your pump is 18w also http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ddc-3-2-pwm-laing-ddc-3-2-pwm.html


----------



## Eugenius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Just keep it running at full, I don't think its necessary to control the pump.


Why would they make it with pwm then?

Noise control? Longevity?

It also has a molex. Maybe that's enough to power it along with the pwm


----------



## Yey09

Its up to you then.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eugenius*
> 
> Why would they make it with pwm then?
> 
> Noise control? Longevity?
> 
> It also has a molex. Maybe that's enough to power it along with the pwm


The molex is powering your pump, the 4 pin PWM is just for control in this case. CPU fan header is the option if available.


----------



## DeviousAddict

Hey guy's my first ever watercooled build is all done








Here's my Build Log I welcome you to check it out, more pictures than words to be honest









And here's a sneaky pic for ya











Edit: Just noticed the protective sticker on the EK logo. That's gone now


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Just keep it running at full, I don't think its necessary to control the pump.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eugenius*
> 
> Noise control? Longevity?


Indeed, DDCs run loud and hot when unrestricted. Can significantly increase the lifespan of your pump by running it under 1.5 gpm. Actual rpm for that will depend on the components in your loop. My two blocks and single rad only needs 1500 rpm, PWM control is perfect for this.


----------



## Eugenius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The molex is powering your pump, the 4 pin PWM is just for control in this case. CPU fan header is the option if available.


Exactly. Pump into cpu fan header and the rest of the rad fans into the cpu opt header. This way the RVE bios can thermally control both pump and rad fans in sync. The rest of the case fans get the chassis headers.


----------



## BranField

i have finally taken the plunge and ordered everything for my first ever attempt at watercooling, there is a lot of EK stuff in there (just cant seem to get away from it lol). Anyway, i have created a bit of a build log if any of you fancy taking a look (LINK) then please feel free. i am just waiting on the ek pump res combo and the ut60 360 as well as the tubing.


----------



## ccRicers

Hey WiSK, it looks like the Cooling Configurator database contains user submitted content. That I didn't know before. So not surprisingly, not a lot of 900 series cards are listed.

I think the block is still visually compatible, and if it fits with a short 660 Ti, it should fit on my 970. I'm getting it from a third party vendor like FrozenCPU to handle the transaction.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, a T fitting with a drain valve on the 3rd end (with the other two being the pump and your compression fitting/tubing) would be great.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BranField*
> 
> i have finally taken the plunge and ordered everything for my first ever attempt at watercooling, there is a lot of EK stuff in there (just cant seem to get away from it lol). Anyway, i have created a bit of a build log if any of you fancy taking a look (LINK) then please feel free. i am just waiting on the ek pump res combo and the ut60 360 as well as the tubing.


Nice! Gonna give it a go when I have the money so this is definitely cool to see. Subbed!









Good luck!


----------



## snef

Thanks for sharing my Project Renegade X on facebook


----------



## MGazonda

I'm considering a bunch of EK stuff for a new build, and was wondering if the EK logo is removable? I tend towards removing logos as much as possible, so this is really important to me.


----------



## VSG

Yeah, just use a heatgun. But note that the sticker is placed usually in a countersunk area to come off flush or slightly above the surface. Think of the CSQ circles etched into the top material and add in another one where the sticker is, for example.


----------



## tSgt

I had to rotate them because I have a reverse atx layout and I've done it using a flat screwdriver.


----------



## Silent Scone

980 blocks, so glad to be back with EK after a not so pleasant but brief experience with Swiftech/EVGA.


----------



## MGazonda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah, just use a heatgun. But note that the sticker is placed usually in a countersunk area to come off flush or slightly above the surface. Think of the CSQ circles etched into the top material and add in another one where the sticker is, for example.


I can work with that, thanks


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> 980 blocks, so glad to be back with EK after a not so pleasant but brief experience with Swiftech/EVGA.












What a jet sleek looking build, those components in that picture almost cost as much as my first build


----------



## iBored

Are we expecting any 970 blocks soon?


----------



## Pheozero

Soon™


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/516/19/EK-announces-Intel-Socket-R3-LGA-2011-3-compatibility/
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> EK Water Blocks is also working on a collection of Full Board (and other types of) water blocks for the latest ASUS (Rampage V Extreme), GIGABYTE (GA-X99-SOC Force, GA-X99-Gaming G1, GA-X99-UD7, GA-X99-UD5, ...) and MSI (MSI X99S XPower AC) Intel® X99 Express based motherboards with *availability by the end of September 2014*. More details will be disclosed in the upcoming weeks via EK Social Media websites.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you still going to make this "deadline" or is it delayed?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Unfortunately the 980 launch has kept us quite busy and the X99 blocks will be around in October.
Click to expand...

I hate being that guy asking the same question over and over again but I've been patiently sitting on my thumbs for my RVE motherboard block. Been running with soft tubing as a temporary solution in an acrylic tubing build ever since the 5960x came out.









When can we expect the RVE motherboard blocks and monoblocks to come out? We're almost into the second week of October


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

The EK site is down right now. Does anyone know the proper bridge/terminal that would be used to connect SLI EK FC780 classified?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyrannosaurus*
> 
> The EK site is down right now. Does anyone know the proper bridge/terminal that would be used to connect SLI EK FC780 classified?


That would depend on your motherboard and the lane spacing on it, provided you are referring to multi-block terminals of course.


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That would depend on your motherboard and the lane spacing on it, provided you are referring to multi-block terminals of course.


Yes, It is for multi blocks. I will be running 2 780ti classified on the Rampage V Extreme. I want to use the first two slots for the 16x/16x lanes


----------



## Roxycon

For both on 16x you'll need a 40 lane cpu with a triple bridge single slot and a blanker for the middle where theres no gpu, bridge and blind or the serial equivalent (needs a serial blind not the parallel)


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyrannosaurus*
> 
> Yes, It is for multi blocks. I will be running 2 780ti classified on the Rampage V Extreme. I want to use the first two slots for the 16x/16x lanes


I have the same board (and same cards) so you may want to re-check the manual. For 2 cards, it suggests going with the 1st and 3rd x16 slots (3rd red slot, below the black PCI-2_x4 slot) for 2 way SLI. That distance pretty much means going with a 3/4-way Terminal with black units. So it may be cheaper to go with SLI connectors unless you are set with the looks of the terminals.


----------



## emsj86

Question I wanna buy ek d5 x res 140 ml Pump res combo. I see it comes with one extender fitting bod you need an extender for each port? I wanna have inlet outlet than a drain ? Thank you


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Question I wanna buy ek d5 x res 140 ml Pump res combo. I see it comes with one extender fitting bod you need an extender for each port? I wanna have inlet outlet than a drain ? Thank you


Extenders are needed for the inlet ports. The reason for this is that all the inlet ports are recessed so that the ones you don't use are very low profile without any protrusions. The outlet port is the only one that must be used so it is not recessed.

These ones, that have replaced the small silver ones on the PE radiators look much better than the small silver ones that come as standard with the pump. The D5 X-res comes with one extender.
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings/extenders-and-spacers/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-black.html


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> For both on 16x you'll need a 40 lane cpu with a triple bridge single slot and a blanker for the middle where theres no gpu, bridge and blind or the serial equivalent (needs a serial blind not the parallel)


Thank you very much for the picture







I was using the newegg specifications which mislead me to thinking the 16x/16x was first two lanes.

So I could buy this triple parallel terminal and then I would need to use this blank in the middle?


----------



## sinnedone

Quick question about the included thermal pads in ek gpu blocks. (namely r9 290) What is its thermal conductivity rating, and have better temperature results been found by using a different thermal pad?


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick question about the included thermal pads in ek gpu blocks. (namely r9 290) What is its thermal conductivity rating, and have better temperature results been found by using a different thermal pad?


ek is 4-5 W/mK, I used fujipoly ultra extreme 17 W/mK on vrm1 and vrm2. very effective


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick question about the included thermal pads in ek gpu blocks. (namely r9 290) What is its thermal conductivity rating, and have better temperature results been found by using a different thermal pad?


I have this same question for the 290x.

Also, I just purchased two of these: FC EK-FC R9-290X DCII - Nickel (Original CSQ)

Well all the included pads are of the same thickness (0.5mm) and the instructions clearly state to use the included 1.0mm pads on the vrm at location #3 below.
Am I supposed to stack two 0.5mm pads together? Wouldn't that not be as effective as using a single 1mm pad?

I also have the backplates and they came with the correct 1mm and 1.5mm pad sizes. However one backplate boxs included installation instructions for a 280x???... of course the plate was actually for the 290x and I installed it accordingly


----------



## pdasterly

fujipoly ultra extreme on vrm1 and vrm2
1200 gpu
gpu temp 45
vddc 1.328
vrm1 37
vrm2 33

Full load


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> fujipoly ultra extreme on vrm1 and vrm2
> 1200 gpu
> gpu temp 45
> vddc 1.328
> vrm1 37
> vrm2 33
> 
> Full load


umm yea ...well I need a bit more info than that to justify the costs.









I'm sure you get better temps using fujipoly but...

Based on what?

Eg
What is the differential in temps compared to using the stock EK pads?


----------



## pdasterly

$15, there is no cost to justify


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> $15, there is no cost to justify


$15 = No cost huh?








I'm sorry but that type of reply is usless to me.

I already have the ek pads and if they perform just as well then I'm not about spend more for a +1°~2°C drop in temps.

I require some hard data to "justify" what I do with my money.

Can anyone else provide any "real world data on the difference in temps" to expect when switching from ek to fuji pads?


----------



## MorpheusRO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> $15 = No cost huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sorry but that type of reply is usless to me.
> 
> I already have the ek pads and if they perform just as well then I'm not about spend more for a +1°~2°C drop in temps.
> 
> I require some hard data to "justify" what I do with my money.
> 
> Can anyone else provide any "real world data on the difference in temps" to expect when switching from ek to fuji pads?


Check out this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1468593/r9-290-x-thermal-pad-upgrade-vrm-temperatures
And related to your question, this post: http://www.overclock.net/t/1468593/r9-290-x-thermal-pad-upgrade-vrm-temperatures#post_21881630


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorpheusRO*
> 
> Check out this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1468593/r9-290-x-thermal-pad-upgrade-vrm-temperatures
> And related to your question, this post: http://www.overclock.net/t/1468593/r9-290-x-thermal-pad-upgrade-vrm-temperatures#post_21881630


Wow...1st post! ...and useful









Thanks...I'll give it a read.

...and enjoy your 1st +rep


----------



## MorpheusRO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Wow...1st post! ...and useful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks...I'll give it a read.
> 
> ...and enjoy your 1st +rep


Thanks. Glad I could help.

Long time lurker here... I thought that it's time to start posting...


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyrannosaurus*
> 
> Thank you very much for the picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was using the newegg specifications which mislead me to thinking the 16x/16x was first two lanes.
> 
> So I could buy this triple parallel terminal and then I would need to use this blank in the middle?


No, you'll need this


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> No, you'll need this


No, he has the correct blanks for his parallel terminal (assuming lane spacing is correct). The one you linked is for a series terminal.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No, he has the correct blanks for his parallel terminal (assuming lane spacing is correct). The one you linked is for a series terminal.


Oh, read it as a question and not a confirmation, my bad


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Extenders are needed for the inlet ports. The reason for this is that all the inlet ports are recessed so that the ones you don't use are very low profile without any protrusions. The outlet port is the only one that must be used so it is not recessed.
> 
> These ones, that have replaced the small silver ones on the PE radiators look much better than the small silver ones that come as standard with the pump. The D5 X-res comes with one extender.
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings/extenders-and-spacers/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-black.html


so if I'm running a single look I really only need the one extender for none inlet and than a normal fitting for my outlet correct? As for the remaining inlet does it come with a cap if not in use?


----------



## sinnedone

I purchased some EK-PSC-90-NK fittings for my build and they seem to have ALOT of play and spin freely compared to my other fittings from other manufacturers.

I have yet to put water through them, but am a little worried about this. Here are some pictures of the gap that can be made simply by moving the fitting around:
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/IMAG3439_zpstk9oryy7.jpg.html
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/IMAG3437_zpsw0irxcps.jpg.html
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/IMAG3438_zpsqcff6w7v.jpg.html

Is this normal for this fitting? Are these known to have issues or leak? Perhaps the ek rep (derik I believe) can help out here. I'm more than a little worried right now.


----------



## VSG

Ya, all of mine have a bit of play. It's dependent on the rotary collar inside, I took apart an XSPC male-female rotary (by mistake) and found out for myself. It should be fine though- haven't had any leaks yet.


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

I can not find this blank in stock anywhere!
EK-FC Terminal blank parallel

Any suggestions?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, all of mine have a bit of play. It's dependent on the rotary collar inside, I took apart an XSPC male-female rotary (by mistake) and found out for myself. It should be fine though- haven't had any leaks yet.


Thanks geggeg, that's reassuring. Still gonna keep a close eye on them.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thanks geggeg, that's reassuring. Still gonna keep a close eye on them.


Yup, better safe than sorry. I only had 1 fitting go bad on me so far and it was a Bitspower triple rotary that leaked from one of the internal collars. Just used another one then and called it a day!


----------



## FrancisJF

Hmm...Would you guys replace the XSPC Raystorm just for the looks on EK?


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> Hmm...Would you guys replace the XSPC Raystorm just for the looks on EK?


Performance will come with the looks too.









Could anyone confirm if http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19897/ex-blc-1450/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Dual_Parallel_3-Slot_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_DUAL_Parallel_3-Slot.html?tl=g57c645s2060 will work on the Rampage V Extreme first and third slot?


----------



## VSG

Measure out the lane spacing on your board and confirm it.

Edit: It isn't. You need the triple terminal with a blank as you previously had linked: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18974/ex-blc-1422/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Parallel_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Parallel.html?tl=g57c645s2060#blank


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Measure out the lane spacing on your board and confirm it.


My board is being shipped, otherwise I would not be asking for people on the internet to help me on something I could do with my own hands








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Measure out the lane spacing on your board and confirm it.
> 
> Edit: It isn't. You need the triple terminal with a blank as you previously had linked: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18974/ex-blc-1422/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Parallel_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Parallel.html?tl=g57c645s2060#blank


Okay I see now, I would need 80mm if I am using the measurements of the triple connector. What a bummer! Thank you very much


----------



## VSG

Yup, sorry about the confusion earlier. I thought you did have the board on you


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> so if I'm running a single look I really only need the one extender for none inlet and than a normal fitting for my outlet correct? As for the remaining inlet does it come with a cap if not in use?


Yes, they come with stop plugs for the unused ports. You only need to buy extra extenders if you want to use more than one inlet at a time.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, all of mine have a bit of play. It's dependent on the rotary collar inside, I took apart an XSPC male-female rotary (by mistake) and found out for myself. It should be fine though- haven't had any leaks yet.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks geggeg, that's reassuring. Still gonna keep a close eye on them.
Click to expand...

I have one like this and I haven't had any leaks.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Hey derickwm, hows those X99 RVE blocks coming?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I have one like this and I haven't had any leaks.


Thanks for the conformation.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Hey derickwm, hows those X99 RVE blocks coming?


As soon as I know, everyone else will know.


----------



## emsj86

Ek d5 x res 140 or ddc version or xspc d5 photon 170. Which should I get. 2 240mm rads might switch to one 240 and one 360. One gtx 780 ek water block and fx 8350 oc. Will the extra money for the d5 be worth it for the mounting bracket alone and better pump. Maybe some other suggestions.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Ek d5 x res 140 or ddc version or xspc d5 photon 170. Which should I get. 2 240mm rads might switch to one 240 and one 360. One gtx 780 ek water block and fx 8350 oc. Will the extra money for the d5 be worth it for the mounting bracket alone and better pump. Maybe some other suggestions.


Both XRes versions (D5 and DDC) would easily do the job for your setup.









Sometimes the choice of pump is based on the space you have to work with inside your case. They are both excellent pumps.


----------



## Red1776

The EK -FC R9 290X (Rev 2.0) Quad beginning to get lit up

The 5.25" bay side panel is tough to photograph





The custom Poly resin pump facades are LED embedded as well

trying different methods to light up the EK acrylic blocks now.


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

I received my blocks today and one has a hole in it, can you tell me if this is okay? It looks to be the part on the vrm's where water will not pass through.


----------



## BradleyW

If you want to wait for a second opinion, that's fine, but I'd say that hole is fine. I don't think water passes there.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyrannosaurus*
> 
> I received my blocks today and one has a hole in it, can you tell me if this is okay? It looks to be the part on the vrm's where water will not pass through.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Your block seems perfectly fine from what I see.

Here's a picture of the block taken from the EK webshop for comparison


----------



## Pheozero

So after taking a look at the 980 Hydro Copper, I'm guessing it can be only SLI'ed with another HC? Also is it safe to say the 980 Classified HC will look the same?


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> So after taking a look at the 980 Hydro Copper, I'm guessing it can be only SLI'ed with another HC? Also is it safe to say the 980 Classified HC will look the same?


Yeah I'm not sure why EVA choose to adopt their own stupid inlets. They're also slightly more frustrating to fit given the distance between them. For the price they're charging I wouldn't bother... you can save yourself £100/$ and get an EK Acetal block that is more of a full cover block than the flimsy cover on the Hydro.

Don't get me wrong I'm really glad EVGA dropped Swiftech (bless them), but for the price EVGA are charging it's a bit win/lose


----------



## iBored

EK launches new D5 PWM powered products

Is there an option for just the top?
I really want the clear top. Just not confident in polishing it


----------



## Silent Scone

I want to know if they plan on releasing a dual bay 2x D5 unit.


----------



## DeviousAddict

does anyone know if the Bay Rez/pump combi's are any good? and would the work on their side?
I have a Carbide Air 540 so the bays are vertical rather than horizontal
Cheers


----------



## Ragsters

I don't need to know when but would you please tell me if EK is coming out with a new GTX 970 block?


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I don't need to know when but would you please tell me if EK is coming out with a new GTX 970 block?


When Half Life 3 will be released


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> So after taking a look at the 980 Hydro Copper, I'm guessing it can be only SLI'ed with another HC? Also is it safe to say the 980 Classified HC will look the same?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I'm not sure why EVA choose to adopt their own stupid inlets. They're also slightly more frustrating to fit given the distance between them. For the price they're charging I wouldn't bother... you can save yourself £100/$ and get an EK Acetal block that is more of a full cover block than the flimsy cover on the Hydro.
> 
> Don't get me wrong I'm really glad EVGA dropped Swiftech (bless them), but for the price EVGA are charging it's a bit win/lose
Click to expand...

The EVGA 980 HC won't be that much more expensive compared to our "own" blocks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I don't need to know when but would you please tell me if EK is coming out with a new GTX 970 block?
> 
> 
> 
> When Half Life 3 will be released
Click to expand...

This


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> When Half Life 3 will be released


Not when. If.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Not when. If.


Shhh, lets stay positive here


----------



## ASO7

*HF (2500K) + HF VGA (GTX 970)*


----------



## VSG

So these new fittings came out of nowhere on the EK shop:


Quote:


> EK-AF Angled 45° G1/4 Nickel
> EK-AF Angled 45° G1/4 Black Nickel
> EK-AF Angled 45° G1/4 Black
> EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 Nickel
> EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 Black Nickel
> EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 Black
> EK-AF Angled 2×45° G1/4 Nickel
> EK-AF Angled 2×45° G1/4 Black Nickel
> EK-AF Angled 2×45° G1/4 Black


Only nickel available for now. I want some even if I already have a ton of rotary fittings already


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So these new fittings came out of nowhere on the EK shop:
> 
> 
> Only nickel available for now. I want some even if I already have a ton of rotary fittings already


I saw those when I went back to performancepcs site to try and find out why the old style ones had some play to them.

I kinda wish I would have known, i would have bought those instead.


----------



## VSG

Those 90s look great, the older ones were slightly paler if you know what I mean and contrasted with other nickel fittings I had.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Those 90s look great, the older ones were slightly paler if you know what I mean and contrasted with other nickel fittings I had.


yup definitely. They have a warm tone to them almost yellowish.


----------



## Ragsters

Those fittings look great! Definitely will consider these for my next build.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So these new fittings came out of nowhere on the EK shop:
> 
> 
> Only nickel available for now. I want some even if I already have a ton of rotary fittings already


Done deal. Bye bye Bitspower on the next build


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> If you want to wait for a second opinion, that's fine, but I'd say that hole is fine. I don't think water passes there.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Your block seems perfectly fine from what I see.
> 
> Here's a picture of the block taken from the EK webshop for comparison


Thanks guys, seeing it on EK official image is good. I did open up the block and seems the water has a pass through for the vrm side. Now waiting for my mayhems blitz kit part 2 to finish so I can start putting together my computer


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So these new fittings came out of nowhere on the EK shop:
> 
> 
> Only nickel available for now. I want some even if I already have a ton of rotary fittings already


I don't even need rotary fittings but I'll but them as long as they're cheaper than Bitspower.


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> I don't even need rotary fittings but I'll but them as long as they're cheaper than Bitspower.


I did pick up some of the EK PSC fittings and if I would have seen those I would have ordered from EK


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So these new fittings came out of nowhere on the EK shop:
> 
> 
> Only nickel available for now. I want some even if I already have a ton of rotary fittings already


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Done deal. Bye bye Bitspower on the next build


I wish I could say the same, but EK doesn't have a wide range of extender and adapter fittings like Bitpower. The EK extender fittings that are available have a very small diameter, so using them with those new fittings which have 19,8mm diameter at the knurled part will be really ugly.

I wish EK would take example from Bitspower and make sure that everything make sense in terms of diameters.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/ipOfIDpRj

Got my 980 block!.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So these new fittings came out of nowhere on the EK shop:
> 
> 
> Only nickel available for now. I want some even if I already have a ton of rotary fittings already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done deal. Bye bye Bitspower on the next build
Click to expand...

:wubsmiley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So these new fittings came out of nowhere on the EK shop:
> 
> 
> Only nickel available for now. I want some even if I already have a ton of rotary fittings already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Done deal. Bye bye Bitspower on the next build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I wish I could say the same, but EK doesn't have a wide range of extender and adapter fittings like Bitpower. The EK extender fittings that are available have a very small diameter, so using them with those new fittings which have 19,8mm diameter at the knurled part will be really ugly.
> 
> I wish EK would take example from Bitspower and make sure that everything make sense in terms of diameters.
Click to expand...

This is being worked on.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> This is being worked on.


----------



## Wihglah

Finally got all my EK bits in one place:





@derickwm

Does anyone know the clearance between a GPU block and the Chokes?


----------



## xarot

Hi,

What is the correct way to get rid of used EK's Ekoolant premix? Should I take it to a hazardous waste? The bottle says it's 85 % biodegradable in 30 days. But what about that 15 %...

Thanks


----------



## Silent Scone

@geggeg You have a serious issue with w/c parts


----------



## VSG

I haven't bought the new fittings though.. yet.


----------



## Martyfish78

If new fittings will be in matt black..i am IN.


----------



## Pheozero

So I guess the next step for fittings is for acrylic? More rotary and dual 90° a la Bitspower style?


----------



## theirlaw

That's great news about the fittings, @derickwm.

I do have a question... is there _any_ chance we'll be seeing board blocks for the Asus X99-E WS? I know what CoolingConfigurator currently says... but is there any hope??!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theirlaw*
> 
> That's great news about the fittings, @derickwm.
> 
> I do have a question... is there _any_ chance we'll be seeing board blocks for the Asus X99-E WS? I know what CoolingConfigurator currently says... but is there any hope??!


Here's a reply from Derick a couple weeks ago
Quote:


> Deluxe and WS _may_ receive VRM blocks.
> 
> RVE is being worked on, that's all I have to report as of right now.


Not new since this news. I know because the WS is in my board choices


----------



## Malik

Time to visit EKWB City II


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Time to visit EKWB City II


I love the fittings placement


----------



## Malik

Thanks


----------



## sceeZer

figued i might as well post here rather than make a new topic. anyone have any experience with the EK-BAY RES D5 Vario? i dont really have room for a tube res. all im wondering is: how much of a PITA is it to bleed and how is the noise? heard alot about how bay reservoirs can cause vibrations in the case


----------



## ccRicers

My Thermosphere on a short GTX 970. Magic? No, modding


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> My Thermosphere on a short GTX 970. Magic? No, modding


Will you be using heatsinks? If so which ones?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> My Thermosphere on a short GTX 970. Magic? No, modding


With such a short card, it almost looks like it would be possible to rotate the block 90 and let the connectors hang off the back.

That would make for a very unique look.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Will you be using heatsinks? If so which ones?


The dinky VRM heatsink is definitely going to be upgraded. I am not sure yet about the memory heatsinks and what kind I'll get. I know about the several branded heatsinks that come in packs of 10 or whatever but it is usually cheaper to cut from a larger spare heatsink and stick on the thermal pads yourself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> With such a short card, it almost looks like it would be possible to rotate the block 90 and let the connectors hang off the back.
> 
> That would make for a very unique look.


Hmm, I don't even know if that is even possible to mount it 90 degrees to the end. Nonetheless it wouldn't really work well with my build because I am using a very small case and one of the radiators will be right next to the edge of the card.


----------



## lowfat

IMO vram heatsinks are not required. You shouldn't need much for vrm cooling one reference 970 either. Thermosphere ftw.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> My Thermosphere on a short GTX 970. Magic? No, modding


Wow, excellent!


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IMO vram heatsinks are not required. You shouldn't need much for vrm cooling one reference 970 either. Thermosphere ftw.


That's good to know, and I save $5 off one set of VRAM heatsinks lol. I do recall someone saying his VRAM on this card barely feels warm to the touch. I know you are using the Thermosphere on a older NVidia card and have no issues leaving it bare. I still think the vrm heatsink looks pitiful and a lot of fins just looks better to me.


----------



## derickwm

@ccRicers, what 970 is that btw?


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> ccRicers, what 970 is that btw?


It's the standard Zotac 970.










BTW I didn't make any mods to the water block but the GPU itself. Shaved off a mm or two in the corner of the power connector.


----------



## derickwm

Ah! That's a bummer, I thought this was completely unmodified. Still, thanks for sharing


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Ah! That's a bummer, I thought this was completely unmodified. Still, thanks for sharing


Nope, thought my other post made it clear. The difference in size is very subtle, though. Wouldn't mind seeing a revision that would actually fit on these cards right out of the box


----------



## derickwm

If it's only a couple mm maybe something can be done. I'll look into it.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> With such a short card, it almost looks like it would be possible to rotate the block 90 and let the connectors hang off the back.
> 
> That would make for a very unique look.


That's how I have one of my 660Ti's which have the same short PCB.


Spoiler: Warning: Non EK block!



 



Might be possible with a Thermosphere too, depending on whether the metal of the blocks would touch the metal pins of the power socket.


----------



## DeviousAddict

Hey guys since the subject has turned to gpu cooling, I want to watercool my xfx dd r9 280x's.unfortunately no one does a full cover waterblock








So im going to have to go with a universal one, I was looking at the thermosphere but do I need to buy any additional mounting brackets for it to fit my cards?

Cheers


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> With such a short card, it almost looks like it would be possible to rotate the block 90 and let the connectors hang off the back.
> 
> That would make for a very unique look.
> 
> 
> 
> That's how I have one of my 660Ti's which have the same short PCB.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Non EK block!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might be possible with a Thermosphere too, depending on whether the metal of the blocks would touch the metal pins of the power socket.
Click to expand...

That is slick, I like that.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If it's only a couple mm maybe something can be done. I'll look into it.


Awesome!


----------



## BECHEZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> It's the standard Zotac 970.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW I didn't make any mods to the water block but the GPU itself. Shaved off a mm or two in the corner of the power connector.


Is that with the default thermosphere adapter?


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BECHEZ*
> 
> Is that with the default thermosphere adapter?


Yeah. Mounting holes are in the same place as most of the GTX 600 and 700 series so the default adapter works.


----------



## brandotip

Anyone seen comparisons between the new evo and the xspc raystorm? Might be looking at that red topped guy


----------



## derickwm




----------



## TTheuns

Nice to see you guys are dominating both in design and performance


----------



## Rainmaker91

Hello everyone, I am proud to say that I am now a new owner of a "slightly" used EKWB Supremacy Waterblock. I will be using it in a future build that's still in the planning phases, but before I start using my parts I want to make sure I have a clean loop. Thus I'm wondering about how you guys clean your blocks? I have seen online that Lemon juice and vinegar combined with distilled water seems to be popular in cleaning water blocks. The only thing is that EKWB strongly advice not to use any corrosive materials such as acids on Nickel and Acrylic. In fact this is a direct quote from EKWBs support page:


Spoiler: EKWB statement:



"Cleaning nickel plated copper: When cleaning nickel plated copper it is forbidden to use any aggressive chemicals (neither vinegar) or rough materials as you may damage the plating and thus void the warranty. Please note also that due to presence of dye additives and other chemicals the nickel layer may also become discolored/stained over time period. However the staining is normally reversible by simple flush and rinse. Cleaning the nickel plated copper should consists of these steps:

flush the nickel plated copper under warm water
clean the surface using wet non-abrasive cloth and rinse with clean water
polish the hardened deposits (such as algae or dirt) from the nickel plated copper if necassery.
EK recommends the use of automotive soft, non-abrasive metal polish cremes. After you finish using other cleaning methods, give the nickel plating a good polish with a non-abrasive metal or chrome polish. Apply a small amount of polish to a cloth or to the surface of the nickel. Wipe the entire surface of the nickel with the polish, using small circular motions, until it looks shiny and clean. Use another clean cloth to remove the remains of the polishing paste from the surface. Always rinse with distilled water after you are done with polishing." (Ekwb.com, 2014)

and

"Cleaning acrylic (plexi) glass tops: Acrylic will fail prematurely if subjected to even small amounts of alcohol, acetone or other agressive chemicals. Please do not use anything but warm, soapy water and a toothbrush to clean the acrylic (plexi) glass water block tops and reservoir tubes. Using agressive chemicals will surely void your warranty!

Algae- or dirt deposits may be rubbed out using soft cloth in combination with warm, soapy water. Rinse with distilled water after cleaning." (Ekwb.com, 2014)

Source:
Ekwb.com, (2014). EKWaterBlocks Support :: Knowledge Base :: How to clean water blocks?. [online] Available at: http://www.ekwb.com/support/index.php?act=article&code=view&id=23 [Accessed 14 Oct. 2014].



So what do people think? are there any more effective ways of cleaning acrylic and Nickel without having to just rely on distilled water and a toothbrush?


----------



## DeviousAddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Hello everyone, I am proud to say that I am now a new owner of a "slightly" used EKWB Supremacy Waterblock. I will be using it in a future build that's still in the planning phases, but before I start using my parts I want to make sure I have a clean loop. Thus I'm wondering about how you guys clean your blocks? I have seen online that Lemon juice and vinegar combined with distilled water seems to be popular in cleaning water blocks. The only thing is that EKWB strongly advice not to use any corrosive materials such as acids on Nickel and Acrylic. In fact this is a direct quote from EKWBs support page:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: EKWB statement:
> 
> 
> 
> "Cleaning nickel plated copper: When cleaning nickel plated copper it is forbidden to use any aggressive chemicals (neither vinegar) or rough materials as you may damage the plating and thus void the warranty. Please note also that due to presence of dye additives and other chemicals the nickel layer may also become discolored/stained over time period. However the staining is normally reversible by simple flush and rinse. Cleaning the nickel plated copper should consists of these steps:
> 
> flush the nickel plated copper under warm water
> clean the surface using wet non-abrasive cloth and rinse with clean water
> polish the hardened deposits (such as algae or dirt) from the nickel plated copper if necassery.
> EK recommends the use of automotive soft, non-abrasive metal polish cremes. After you finish using other cleaning methods, give the nickel plating a good polish with a non-abrasive metal or chrome polish. Apply a small amount of polish to a cloth or to the surface of the nickel. Wipe the entire surface of the nickel with the polish, using small circular motions, until it looks shiny and clean. Use another clean cloth to remove the remains of the polishing paste from the surface. Always rinse with distilled water after you are done with polishing." (Ekwb.com, 2014)
> 
> and
> 
> "Cleaning acrylic (plexi) glass tops: Acrylic will fail prematurely if subjected to even small amounts of alcohol, acetone or other agressive chemicals. Please do not use anything but warm, soapy water and a toothbrush to clean the acrylic (plexi) glass water block tops and reservoir tubes. Using agressive chemicals will surely void your warranty!
> 
> Algae- or dirt deposits may be rubbed out using soft cloth in combination with warm, soapy water. Rinse with distilled water after cleaning." (Ekwb.com, 2014)
> 
> Source:
> Ekwb.com, (2014). EKWaterBlocks Support :: Knowledge Base :: How to clean water blocks?. [online] Available at: http://www.ekwb.com/support/index.php?act=article&code=view&id=23 [Accessed 14 Oct. 2014].
> 
> 
> 
> So what do people think? are there any more effective ways of cleaning acrylic and Nickel without having to just rely on distilled water and a toothbrush?


Personally I suggest the mayhems 2part cleaning kit, or just rinse through with a few litres of demin water


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> Personally I suggest the mayhems 2part cleaning kit, or just rinse through with a few litres of demin water


hmm, would that be the Blitz cleaning kit? if so then Mayhem says not to use on anytihng but brass and copper, and it is mentioned that it should not be used on plated products. I'm thinking I may just soak it in a bowl of non-abrasive detergent and distilled water. that should be able to solve up anything that isn't metal and at the very least loosen any metal dust if there's any. Then just clean it off in more distilled. Thoughts?


----------



## VSG

Part 1 of the kit is only for rads, and not meant for waterblocks. Part 2 is the general loop cleaning solution.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Part 1 of the kit is only for rads, and not meant for waterblocks. Part 2 is the general loop cleaning solution.


I see... How do you think regular non-abrasive detergent would work though? It may leave a bit of fat behind but I'm not sure so I ask. If I shouldn't then I won't but it would be simpler getting it at a grocery store then to order it online. That said I want it done properly so if I sould use Mayhems then I will do that


----------



## VSG

You answered the question yourself in the end. Without knowing the chemical composition of the items, all I can do is recommend something that seems to be working fine for everyone.


----------



## FrancisJF

Waiting on my Coolstream PE radiators. ETA Friday.









got my CPU and GPUs waterblocks.


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Mindless steal of these charts! Gonna go on something I have been writing on my blog









Good to see that EK is dominating and being competitve at pricing too!


----------



## DeviousAddict

Hey Guys, I'm looking at getting the Ek-Thermosphere but i'm not sure which mounting bracket i need to get with it. I have an R9 280X, the XFX DD edition.
I've had a look at the mounting plates on the EK shop but it doesnt mention which one will fit my cards. The versions i can see are R600, G92, GF560 and G200.

Cheers


----------



## derickwm

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1190

R600


----------



## DeviousAddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1190
> 
> R600


Thank you









I should've mentioned that the Cooling Configurator doesnt work on my work browser. They restrict most Javascript and flash websites









Edit: i'll Rep you when i get home. That button doesn't work here either lol


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/f07wFK3nj

Here's my latest setup with EK nickel cpu block and nickel/acetal 980 block.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Anyone seen comparisons between the new evo and the xspc raystorm? Might be looking at that red topped guy


From what I've been told cpu blocks don't have a huge difference in each other cooling wise. I'd always go for looks or price if budget


----------



## SuprUsrStan

So they posted a picture of the "Asus X99 VRM Cooling Solution" but it's on a X99 Deluxe. They didn't show the chipset block either. Where is our RVE blocks


----------



## VSG

There won't be a chipset block for it, the CMOS battery would interfere.


----------



## Kimir

There is no need to watercool the chipset anyway.








At least the white scheme remain.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There won't be a chipset block for it, the CMOS battery would interfere.


Not if they release a chipset block like the one for the maximus gene motherboards.











Not that it matters to me at all. All I want is my RVE block. I'm tired of this temporary setup I've got...


----------



## VSG

Tell that to Niko then, as far as I know there are no plans for a chipset block for the WS and Deluxe.

Yeah, same here. Although I may well go for the monoblock myself. It would be fun to see how the Evo compares with the monoblock on a super heat monster.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

All I want is to get rid of this ugly temp setup I've been running for the last month and a half now. It's getting pretty unacceptable now. I didn't run any coolants because I knew I'd tear it down for the RVE waterblock and thus the soft tubing. It's been like this since launch


----------



## derickwm

RVE should be available to order by the end of the month. The Deluxe will not be getting a chipset block.


----------



## brandotip

@derickwm thanks for the charts! Also was there a chipset or mono block available for the maximus v gene? I recently redid my z77 build and couldn't find info about it. (I'm coming from asrock extreme 4)


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> @derickwm thanks for the charts! Also was there a chipset or mono block available for the maximus v gene? I recently redid my z77 build and couldn't find info about it. (I'm coming from asrock extreme 4)


No chipsets or mono blocks have been made for the Gene V


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> So they posted a picture of the "Asus X99 VRM Cooling Solution" but it's on a X99 Deluxe. They didn't show the chipset block either. Where is our RVE blocks


Isn't there a heat pipe connecting the Vrm heatsink to another under the io shield? How is that removed?


----------



## VSG

I imagine you can just remove both heatsinks and place back the white shroud. I saw people doing it for similar boards already.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> So they posted a picture of the "Asus X99 VRM Cooling Solution" but it's on a X99 Deluxe. They didn't show the chipset block either. Where is our RVE blocks


AWESOME!!!

Best news I have heard in a while...









I gotta go grab some monarch modules and blocks now while they are still in stock.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> AWESOME!!!
> 
> Best news I have heard in a while...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gotta go grab some monarch modules and blocks now while they are still in stock.


Just make sure that your DDR4 stick has chips on both sides or the Monarch modules won't work.


----------



## Pheozero

I'm more interested in that HyperX Predator...


----------



## Jeronbernal

If the sticks dont have chips on both sides, I've noticed alot of manufacturers use some type of plastic of some sort as a gap filler for their heatsink. You'll see them alot in xms3 ram and what not. I'd assume since ddr4 waterblocking isn't fo' da' the heat anyways, why not just throw some plastic in there that's similar. Doubt it'll affect squat.

Got me some ddr4 64gb lovin' today, and no x99 XD slowly but steadily.


----------



## Nichismo

gawwd, now I want a Rampage 5...


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> gawwd, now I want a Rampage 5...


well after the waiting i wish it was monoblock


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> well after the waiting i wish it was a full cover


This is a fullcover, you mean Monoblock


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> This is a fullcover, you mean Monoblock


yes, sorry


----------



## iBored

Haha I wanna see p0pe come up with the complete block. CPU + MB + RAM waterblock all in one


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> well after the waiting i wish it was monoblock


It's coming


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's coming


I see you've started doing the _thing_ already


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I see you've started doing the _thing_ already


I saw a reply on the EK Facebook page about the same question so I just replied the same answer


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I saw a reply on the EK Facebook page about the same question so I just replied the same answer


i was the one asking that question


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I saw a reply on the EK Facebook page about the same question so I just replied the same answer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i was the one asking that question
Click to expand...


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Haha I wanna see p0pe come up with the complete block. CPU + MB + RAM waterblock all in one


Dude, that p0pe waterblock was absolutely mindblowing.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Dude, that p0pe waterblock was absolutely mindblowing.


----------



## Nichismo

hey guys

Im going to be upgrading my GPUs to 780tis with the nickelplexi EK blocks, and im going to probably get rid of the bridge terminal and just use fittings. Also im going to get Ram blocks and a vrm block. Before I started this build I wanted to mount the reservoirs on the wall of the chassis, side by side but facing the window. I didnt want to drill however and didnt have the resources or time to figure it out, so now that im going to practically tear it down for these upgrades, im thinking about sending the chassis divider piece to FrozenCPU so they can drill some holes for mounting and some drain port holes as well.

But im not sure now if I want to do that, im really happy with how it looks now and I really dont want to undo all the work I just did, However, the thought of designing the loops how I just described really appeals to me.

thoughts or opinions on any of this? thanks









I didnt think much of them at first, but now that they are mounted, I really like the aesthetics of these fans, especially the glossy black. The middle of them when spinning really looks nice, especially under the silver of the radiator.



Its kind of hard to see, but I started using those ModMyToys pcb fan splitters... I cant believe I never noticed them before... The variety they have with these is huge, and they are so cheap. I I was using 3 and 4 split y cables and the clutter was ridiculous... instead I bought 4 of these with the 3 pin power input, and then just ran a female to female cable from each one to a channel on my Aquaero, and they work great.



I want to change my lighting, these LED bars are too aggressive, its just too much light. They highlight every little piece of dirt and dust or fingerprint, and they dont have very good range.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Im going to be upgrading my GPUs to 780tis


I asked this in the watercooling thread, but just wandering why not go with 980's?


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I asked this in the watercooling thread, but just wandering why not go with 980's?


unless your getting dirt cheap why not get 980's?


----------



## Nichismo

oh believe me, I really wanted 980s. But ill save quite a bit of money and time with the 780tis, and the performance will probably be nearly the exact same.

I already got one EVGA reference 780ti locally through Craigslist, practically brand new. 400$ and the guy came to my work, literally no effort on my part.

I can still use the backplates from my current blocks, so that saves me about 60$

Im going to get another 780ti off ebay for 450$ or less easily. 980s are still hard to come by and they are all close to 600$, plus I need waterblocks and backplates which are also still hard to come by.

Plus I just got a new ax1200i so I have plenty of power.


----------



## weinstein888

Vote for my idea on EK: http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/waterblocks-for-asus039s-x99-e-ws-motherboard/

Would be highly appreciated. Dying to see some blocks for this board.


----------



## brandotip

My question is where is the EK smiley for :ek: ? Lol


----------



## emsj86

So I I stalled ek supremacy on my fx 8350. Per instructions I replaced jet plate and Insert with the provided ones. I reseated 3 times and my idle temp is still 40-60. It jumps around. Any idea what it could be??


----------



## emsj86




----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weinstein888*
> 
> Vote for my idea on EK: http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/waterblocks-for-asus039s-x99-e-ws-motherboard/
> 
> Would be highly appreciated. Dying to see some blocks for this board.


There is a lot of engineering that goes into producing quality blocks... I doubt EK can sink that kind of dough into developing one for a workstation board when the people asking for it aren't even buying the board for it's intended purpose. Kind of like if people asked corsair to make ecc dominator kits... Sure it would be nice, but that's not what that product line is intended for.. They would most likely take a heavy loss in producing waterblocks for that board.

Edit- here is a link to someone suggesting your same idea back in 2013, if you read Derick's response after it garnered 14 votes he basically explains what I just explained.

http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/full-block-for-asus-workstation-boards


----------



## Yungbenny911

MSI Gaming 980 waterblocks please







. Maybe i should start a petition









*EDIT:*

I just checked the EK web, it's finally there

























Can't wait to complete my rig, i hope they're transparent


----------



## derickwm

Or you could just buy almost any other X99 Asus board...


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Dude, that p0pe waterblock was absolutely mindblowing.
Click to expand...

I know right? EK make this happen! I don't care if it costs $300 dollars for all of the waterblocks, just make it happen! It's better than the "monoblock" because it's got an extra layer of dimension and since it's clear you can see beneath like that CPU block.


----------



## emsj86

Anyone using amd am3 plus with ek supremacy? What jet plae and insert do you use? I went by the instructions and reseated over four times now. I have good water flow but my cpu temps at idle our 50. (Checked bios all voltage and tweaks are set properly) can someone help please thank you


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Anyone using amd am3 plus with ek supremacy? What jet plae and insert do you use? I went by the instructions and reseated over four times now. I have good water flow but my cpu temps at idle our 50. (Checked bios all voltage and tweaks are set properly) can someone help please thank you


Unsure about the jetplate myself... maybe you have air trapped in your rad?


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Anyone using amd am3 plus with ek supremacy? What jet plae and insert do you use? I went by the instructions and reseated over four times now. I have good water flow but my cpu temps at idle our 50. (Checked bios all voltage and tweaks are set properly) can someone help please thank you


I have just installed the evo on my 8350 (yet to turn it on addmittidently) and used the amd jet plate and I think the different insert as well. You don't have any kinks or anything restricting the flow dramatically do you?


----------



## emsj86

I think I might know what's going on after looking through I see I didn't have a insert pin for the insert piece idk if that's it but that's what's missing so more than Likely that's it. Wish ek would contact me back I really need this working ASAP. Be nice if I could just get the two cent part sent out to me I'll lay the shipping just need this pc running


----------



## shtqbe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I think I might know what's going on after looking through I see I didn't have a insert pin for the insert piece idk if that's it but that's what's missing so more than Likely that's it. Wish ek would contact me back I really need this working ASAP. Be nice if I could just get the two cent part sent out to me I'll lay the shipping just need this pc running


Or maybe inlet and outlet should be other way around?


----------



## emsj86

The inlet and outlet our correct I thought the same and double checked. I'm trying to resolve this with performance pc .com because the issue is the insert is missing. Wish I could say they been helpful with this


----------



## VSG

Send a PM to @phillyd as well then.


----------



## emsj86

Thank you again gegge. You have been very helpful


----------



## derickwm

EK Support will assist you first thing Monday morning as it's already 11PM over there. Judging from the time of your posts they went home before you submitted a ticket. I don't really quite understand how a locking pin wouldn't come included due to how the blocks are assembled, you sure it didn't pop out somewhere when you disassembled it?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I think I might know what's going on after looking through I see I didn't have a insert pin for the insert piece idk if that's it but that's what's missing so more than Likely that's it. Wish ek would contact me back I really need this working ASAP. Be nice if I could just get the two cent part sent out to me I'll lay the shipping just need this pc running


First, to clarify everything, you're talking about the Supremacy EVO and not the Supremacy since the Supremacy didn't have any insert pin









Second, In the kit you only have one insert pin since it's a universal pin. What I mean, is that the same insert pin that was on the default *I1 Insert* will go on the *I2 Insert* that you need to use for AMD and LGA2011-v3.

So I would check on the original insert for the missing insert pin.









It's the top left piece on the picture below


----------



## Lionheart1980

Got reqest for ya EK, waterblock for ASUS WS-E









I had to say it, so its done


----------



## FrancisJF

My Coolstream PE came.


----------



## redxmaverick

I'm so sad my EK GTX 670 waterblocks aren't compatible with any 970/980 blocks. *sadpanda*


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redxmaverick*
> 
> I'm so sad my EK GTX 670 waterblocks aren't compatible with any 970/980 blocks. *sadpanda*


I see some nice 970 in this list









Compatibility list for EK-FC670 GTX


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> My Thermosphere on a short GTX 970. Magic? No, modding


We Are now Brothers




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Dude, that p0pe waterblock was absolutely mindblowing.


Dude... What....


----------



## Silent Scone

lol wow ok that is handy.


----------



## Martyfish78

I am gonna be ordered 360 XTX rad..So question for owners. Can i buy a Mayhems kit or just flush with water is ok??


----------



## Malik




----------



## akira749

Beautiful!









Your photo are top notch as always!!


----------



## Malik

Thank You, still waiting for case


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Thank You, still waiting for case


What case? if you mind me asking.


----------



## Malik

IN WIN D Frame Mini Black


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> First, to clarify everything, you're talking about the Supremacy EVO and not the Supremacy since the Supremacy didn't have any insert pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second, In the kit you only have one insert pin since it's a universal pin. What I mean, is that the same insert pin that was on the default *I1 Insert* will go on the *I2 Insert* that you need to use for AMD and LGA2011-v3.
> 
> So I would check on the original insert for the missing insert pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's the top left piece on the picture below


I know there is only one insert pin. It was not in the block to begin with or in the box. For the time being I was able to get a spare from a friend who has another evo block that he won't be using for a few weeks. And now it's running great. I still need to get the insert but at least I m able to play thanks to my friend


----------



## Ragsters

Did everyone get sponsored by Inwin recently?


----------



## ccRicers

Can a Supremacy EVO owner tell me what the distance is between the two ports? Whether measured between centers or the sides, what ever is easier.


----------



## gdubc

Any word on when frozencpu or ppcs might get stock on *these*?


----------



## Yey09

*My EK Arsenal*




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







*I cannot find the pre-drilled 3mm holes for LED for the GTX770 block, frozencpu description states that there is a pre-drilled holes.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> *My EK Arsenal*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I cannot find the pre-drilled 3mm holes for LED for the GTX770 block, frozencpu description states that there is a pre-drilled holes.


Nice stuff.









About the LED holes, sadly it's a mistake. They must have kept this information from the standard GTX770 plexi block which have 2 holes for LED's but the DCII block don't have any.


----------



## Nichismo

Hey guys, was curious what anyone thought on my cable coloring... The white cables have heatshrink and the red extensions dont, so they dont match up too well, but I wanted to see how it turned out. Im going to order VGA and 24pin custom extensions from Ensourced and im trying to decide the color. I was probably going to go with red and black on the 24 pin, but have the top row of cables red, and the bottom row grey/black spiraled, and then the same for the VGA but white replacing the red.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> *My EK Arsenal*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I cannot find the pre-drilled 3mm holes for LED for the GTX770 block, frozencpu description states that there is a pre-drilled holes.


hey let me know how your installation of those go.

I have and still own two of those blocks and backplates, and they did not meld with my cards very well as opposted to all the other GPU blocks and plates ive owned. They were bending the cards (one card moreso than the other as well, but still both bending noticably), and there was a lot of space between the PCB and backplate. I ended up removing some spacers in some spots and multiple in others and lessened this to a degree. They still performed superbly nonetheless.


----------



## TheTou




----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Nice stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the LED holes, sadly it's a mistake. They must have kept this information from the standard GTX770 plexi block which have 2 holes for LED's but the DCII block don't have any.


Ah ok, I guess I need to drilled it myself. Cheers!


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> hey let me know how your installation of those go.
> 
> I have and still own two of those blocks and backplates, and they did not meld with my cards very well as opposted to all the other GPU blocks and plates ive owned. They were bending the cards (one card moreso than the other as well, but still both bending noticably), and there was a lot of space between the PCB and backplate. I ended up removing some spacers in some spots and multiple in others and lessened this to a degree. They still performed superbly nonetheless.


I'll let you know, I'll dismantle and re-loop my rig this weekend.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Ah ok, I guess I need to drilled it myself. Cheers!


If you want some yes. But be careful, you don't have a big margin of error since the acrylic block isn't that thick


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> If you want some yes. But be careful, you don't have a big margin of error since the acrylic block isn't that thick


drilling done! position it horizontally for lighting the whole block end to end.



Which TIM is better, the ectotherm that came with the block, an arctic silver ceramique 2 or a ZP heatsink compound?


----------



## akira749

Nice job on the drilling!


----------



## cpachris

EK Clean CSQ waterblocks look great in nickel.....



More pics in the build log.....


----------



## Yey09

Which TIM is better, the ectotherm that came with the block, an arctic silver ceramique 2 or a ZP heatsink compound?


----------



## FrancisJF

Currently I am using the TIM that came with it, I remember someone saying that Ectotherm is MX 2 or something? And I have no issues with the TIM.


----------



## MeanBruce

Thanks Derrick,

Your EK X-res/top 100 was an ideal fit for my inaudible CaseLabs S8 work pc.

With one slight modification

Ok and maybe two chassis mods

And then replacing the hard feet with 3/4inch Sorbothane noise absorption hemispheres, that's three

And then drilling that big ass hole, that's four

But after that it was all downhill truly outstanding, fit like a glove.


----------



## xarot

New toys with crappy pictures. Still have some tubing to replace.


----------



## DeviousAddict

I want that card! I just camt afford it








Are you going to post benches?


----------



## skruffs01

Asus and MSI X99S mobo blocks released







!!! Hopefully this means the RVE block is also coming soon.

*ASUS X99 Block Link*



*MSI X99S Power Block Link*


----------



## tSgt

I don't remember the last time I ordered something that fast


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> I don't remember the last time I ordered something that fast


I had the same thought but I am going to hold off to see what the RVE offerings look like before pulling the trigger on this.


----------



## pathfindercod

I've held off on my next build planning till I see what EK offers in terms of waterblocks for the new x99 boards.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> New toys with crappy pictures. Still have some tubing to replace.










I seriously didn't expect to see one of those in use on OCN...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I seriously didn't expect to see one of those in use on OCN...


Out of curiosity, can I ask why?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Out of curiosity, can I ask why?


Simply because the Ares III are numbered and there are a total number of 500 in the world. So I would suspect most ending up in the hands of super exclusive customers and such. Now that said we do have a fairly diverse user base here at OCN so it shouldn't have surprised me, yet it did. Anyways it's just so expencive that I simply didn't expect to see it.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> I want that card! I just camt afford it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to post benches?


Heh, well, I couldn't afford it either but I just bought it. Well, I am not going to bench a lot on it...I did a quick run you can check here, I didn't dare to go too far with the voltage on this expensive card and my CPU clocks were a tad low. Here's an FS Ultra run anyway, it's best to keep this discussion in the Ares III thread but here you go. http://www.3dmark.com/fs/3036541
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I seriously didn't expect to see one of those in use on OCN...


It's about the same as my GTX 780 TI SLI on water. I haven't had an ATI card since X1900XTX/4870X2 days. And hey, this card seems to work very well compared to Ares II for example (read a lengthy post on ROG forums about the issues some time ago).

Why I posted this here, was solely because EK has manufactured the water block on these. I really wish the ARES text would've had lights but it has nothing. The water block looks very nice anyway, and it's nice that ASUS and EVGA are using EK's blocks these days.









Sorry for all the OT.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Simply because the Ares III are numbered and there are a total number of 500 in the world. So I would suspect most ending up in the hands of super exclusive customers and such. Now that said we do have a fairly diverse user base here at OCN so it shouldn't have surprised me, yet it did. Anyways it's just so expencive that I simply didn't expect to see it.


Well, @pompss also has an Ares 3 card in his white themed build, also painted white (with Plasti-Dip)


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Simply because the Ares III are numbered and there are a total number of 500 in the world. So I would suspect most ending up in the hands of super exclusive customers and such. Now that said we do have a fairly diverse user base here at OCN so it shouldn't have surprised me, yet it did. Anyways it's just so expencive that I simply didn't expect to see it.


I agree that it surprised me too









My GPU blood is green but those kind of exclusive cards makes me drool too even if they are "red blooded"


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> I've held off on my next build planning till I see what EK offers in terms of waterblocks for the new x99 boards.


RVE Blocks:










The Asus X99 mosfet block is compatible with a slew of boards, you can find them on CoolingConfigurator. The RVE is of course getting a block. The MSI board has gotten a block. Nearly the entire range of Gigabyte X99 boards will have compatible blocks, but I can confirm model numbers later.


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> RVE Blocks:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Asus X99 mosfet block is compatible with a slew of boards, you can find them on CoolingConfigurator. The RVE is of course getting a block. The MSI board has gotten a block. Nearly the entire range of Gigabyte X99 boards will have compatible blocks, but I can confirm model numbers later.


Well, looks like its time to start up my X99 build! This block looks great.









Derrick, is there also a AIO/monoblock option for the RVE in the works? I would read that "coming soon" means yes


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> RVE Blocks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Asus X99 mosfet block is compatible with a slew of boards, you can find them on CoolingConfigurator. The RVE is of course getting a block. The MSI board has gotten a block. Nearly the entire range of Gigabyte X99 boards will have compatible blocks, but I can confirm model numbers later.


Nice... Monoblock please..

I am hooked after my RIVBE monoblock...


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> I've held off on my next build planning till I see what EK offers in terms of waterblocks for the new x99 boards.
> 
> 
> 
> RVE Blocks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Asus X99 mosfet block is compatible with a slew of boards, you can find them on CoolingConfigurator. The RVE is of course getting a block. The MSI board has gotten a block. Nearly the entire range of Gigabyte X99 boards will have compatible blocks, but I can confirm model numbers later.
Click to expand...

Since the RVE waterblock is essentially the same as the RIVE, is it safe to assume that the RVE monoblock is essentially the same as the RVE monoblock? The RIVE monoblock was essentially the regular block with a piece joining the two together.

EDIT: Basically below with the EVO internals.

RIVE FC Block vs RIVE Monoblock:


----------



## Nichismo

the new ASUS x99 and MSI MOSFET blocks are available for order from EK's webshop.

How long should it probably take to reach North America? I am considering ordering it now, but if its not worth it then ill be patient. I just want to make sure I get my hands on them before they run out of stock


----------



## derickwm

DHL Express takes 3-4 days. (1-2 days for packaging and 2 days for delivery)


----------



## Nichismo

wow, even if its overseas like this?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> wow, even if its overseas like this?


I have ordered parts from WC suppliers in the states with UPS express and that arrived home in Norway the next day so it is possible, but everything has to fit exactly together to make it happen.


----------



## weinstein888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> There is a lot of engineering that goes into producing quality blocks... I doubt EK can sink that kind of dough into developing one for a workstation board when the people asking for it aren't even buying the board for it's intended purpose. Kind of like if people asked corsair to make ecc dominator kits... Sure it would be nice, but that's not what that product line is intended for.. They would most likely take a heavy loss in producing waterblocks for that board.
> 
> Edit- here is a link to someone suggesting your same idea back in 2013, if you read Derick's response after it garnered 14 votes he basically explains what I just explained.
> 
> http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/full-block-for-asus-workstation-boards


Seeing as how EK made blocks for the dual-socket X79 workstation board that you can't even OC on - http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-kit-asus-z9pe-d8-acetal-nickel.html - I see no reason why they couldn't make blocks for the WS board. Probably 3/4 of the crowd in the owners thread are already watercooling. There's a big group of customers right there: http://www.overclock.net/t/1516058/asus-x99-e-ws-owners-thread.

Here's the link in case anyone missed it. Even if you don't own the mobo and you have a Thinkcell account, maybe you could hand us a vote of confidence







Every bit helps: http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/waterblocks-for-asus039s-x99-e-ws-motherboard/


----------



## derickwm

We were hoping that the SR-X/Z9PE-D8 would be as popular as the SR-2 was, but sadly due to the locked chips they weren't. The Z9 is a great example of why we don't focus on WS boards anymore actually.


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Since the RVE waterblock is essentially the same as the RIVE, is it safe to assume that the RVE monoblock is essentially the same as the RVE monoblock? The RIVE monoblock was essentially the regular block with a piece joining the two together.
> 
> EDIT: Basically below with the EVO internals.
> 
> RIVE FC Block vs RIVE Monoblock:


Someone had to mod the RIVE block to fit their RVE in the rampage owner thread.


----------



## VSG

Another day, another prize to win via EK survey: http://goo.gl/RUibHw

Saw it on their FB page, and the prize is pretty amazing to be honest- any 1 item that EK makes of your choosing. Good luck to everyone


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Another day, another prize to win via EK survey: http://goo.gl/RUibHw
> 
> Saw it on their FB page, and the prize is pretty amazing to be honest- any 1 item that EK makes of your choosing. Good luck to everyone


Thanks for the heads up!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Another day, another prize to win via EK survey: http://goo.gl/RUibHw
> 
> Saw it on their FB page, and the prize is pretty amazing to be honest- any 1 item that EK makes of your choosing. Good luck to everyone


Thanks for the heads up, filled the survey!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Another day, another prize to win via EK survey: http://goo.gl/RUibHw
> 
> Saw it on their FB page, and the prize is pretty amazing to be honest- any 1 item that EK makes of your choosing. Good luck to everyone


Thanks for the heads up


----------



## Malik




----------



## derickwm

Sneak preview of a build to come...


----------



## FrancisJF

EK Case?


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*


Very nice man!


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Sneak preview of a build to come...


Your such a tease! Looks very intriguing!!!


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> EK Case?


Does look like their font


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Your such a tease! Looks very intriguing!!!


Thought it might be a Jonsbo case when i seen the curved shape in the top pic.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Thought it might be a Jonsbo case when i seen the curved shape in the top pic.


Def looks like a case but still not certain if Jonsbo or anything close. Another thing to note is it is part of a limited run of 50 it seems. This should really be worth waiting for.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Sneak preview of a build to come...


Such a tease!!!


----------



## orndorf77

I just finished my loop yesterday and I ran out of gelid gc extreme thermal paste so I used cooler master thermal paste the only other thermal paste I have is the little tubes of paste ek gives you . what kind of paste does ek give you ? and do they make there own paste ? and is the ek paste any good ?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I just finished my loop yesterday and I ran out of gelid gc extreme thermal paste so I used cooler master thermal paste the only other thermal paste I have is the little tubes of paste ek gives you . what kind of paste does ek give you ? and do they make there own paste ? and is the ek paste any good ?


I know that at one point they put Gelid extreme with their blocks, but I have no idea what is in use now.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I know that at one point they put Gelid extreme with their blocks, but I have no idea what is in use now.


I don't think the paste they give with the gtx 780 water blocks is gelid gc extreme . the paste in the tube is to thin and runny to be that. when they used to give gelid gc extreme did it say gelid gc extreme on the tube it came in ? the ek tubes I have say ek-tim ectotherm.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I don't think the paste they give with the gtx 780 water blocks is gelid gc extreme . the paste in the tube is to thin and runny to be that. when they used to give gelid gc extreme did it say gelid gc extreme on the tube it came in ? the ek tubes I have say ek-tim ectotherm.



This would be the one I am referring to.


----------



## akira749

The CPU Blocks are delivered with the Gelid and the GPU Blocks with the Ectotherm.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The CPU Blocks are delivered with the Gelid and the GPU Blocks with the Ectotherm.


Well that makes sence I suppose. Altough Gelid Extreme has shown to perform slightly better on GPUs as well as CPUs in tests so to me it's a bit strange to not send it with all blocks. It may be due to the extremely high viscosity of Gelid that makes it harder to apply with a lower pressure cooler (such as a full cover block), or I could be just tlking out of my ass ofcourse which is also more than likely... anyways, both TIMs work great and enerally speaking only the crap that comes on boxed coolers is really bad, so any TIM will do more or less.


----------



## Kimir

Strange? I don't think so, It's more about the cost, if you ask me.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Strange? I don't think so, It's more about the cost, if you ask me.


Since we do live in an industrialised world, a large quantum tend to mean lower prices. That is unless EK already have the TIM as cose to cost price as it can get, in which case the production cost would simply be to high to include. With that in mind though unless EK includes a huge tube of TIM with the GPU blocks compared to a tiny one with the CPU blocks then the difference would be marginal at best. Something that could justify it would be if the price of full cover blocks and so on is already pressed at the point they are now, in which case every penny saved is one earned. I would not put that hypothesis away as the shere amount of raw materials combined with a high R&D cost they are already quite well priced compared to CPU blocks even though most cost about double.

Either way, we are talking about such small differences that it is unlikely anyone would notice even on the highest watercooling overclock. Which means I'm just nitpicking about stuff that already is more or less irrelevant to start with.

Long story short... @orndorf77 could use almost any TIM in exictence and notice only marginal differences (that is unless you would use one of those TIM pads that Intel and AMD used to add to their box coolers)


----------



## Benjiw

Does anyone own the EK supremacy EVO Gold? Is it worth the cash and how much cooler does it perform?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Does anyone own the EK supremacy EVO Gold? Is it worth the cash and how much cooler does it perform?


Performance is the same. It's for aesthetics.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Performance is the same. It's for aesthetics.


Ah right, thanks, was thinking as much but just wanted to see if anyone has compared them.


----------



## Benjiw

Oh technically I can join this club with my AMD EK block (csq) and my EK DCP 2.2 dual bay combo.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Recent pics from my new log....Thanks to Niko and Peter @ EK for their support of modders.

Rads to follow.


----------



## emsj86

Love those fittings and what you did to them. Got my mind started up. Wife won't be happy lol


----------



## Nichismo

looks like I was able to snag one of the Rampage V nickel plexi blocks











I also have the X99 Deluxe MOSFET block on its way from Slovenia and should be getting here Monday or Tuesday hopefully


----------



## VSG

No discount code used? I'd love to see pics!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Just got tiny loop set up to leak test some used components, I must say that Supremacy block looks good with some water in it


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> looks like I was able to snag one of the Rampage V nickel plexi blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also have the X99 Deluxe MOSFET block on its way from Slovenia and should be getting here Monday or Tuesday hopefully


Nice! I'm not on for the whole day and these are sold out everywhere


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyrannosaurus*
> 
> Nice! I'm not on for the whole day and these are sold out everywhere


lol there was 3 left when I went to checkout and by the time I was done they said sold out afterwards

haha. I guess I got lucky.

Funniest part.... I dont even have a Rampage V.

Not yet at least, but my local shop has two in stock, ill pick it up when the other stuff arrives.


----------



## Nichismo

PPCs still has some of the other blocks in stock.

2 Acetal + Nickel
1 copper and 1 acetal + copper


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> PPCs still has some of the other blocks in stock.
> 
> 2 Acetal + Nickel
> 1 copper and 1 acetal + copper


I saw. I'm going to wait a while until I can snag a nickel set and some ram blocks in nickel. I am still not sure if I want to end up being stuck with $1000 in corsair dominator platinums that overclock with such bad timings, I also don't want to buy 32gb of another brand and go through the hassle with those


----------



## TheTou




----------



## Georgey123

Might be a bit of a far fetched question but are the 980 Classy blocks going to released close to the 980 classy release or more towards the end of the year? (If there is one in production)

Cheers


----------



## vMax65

Hi all, Just got my EK Supremacy EVO for a first time custom water cooling loop CPU only... Absolutely great performance and looks great too...


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vMax65*
> 
> Hi all, Just got my EK Supremacy EVO for a first time custom water cooling loop CPU only... Absolutely great performance and looks great too...


 is that pastel blue berry or pastel white with blue dye you got there.


----------



## vMax65

No it is just pastel white... not to sure how the picture came out like that but probably a reflection or something causing the blue colour. It is a very nice white - EK Pastel white... Your setup looks fantastic in those colours...

Figured it out... it was the blue windows screen that caused the blue colour wash in my picture..


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Can you mix ek Pastel Orange and Add Mayhems Orange dye to make a deeper orange without negative effects?


----------



## easynator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Can you mix ek Pastel Orange and Add Mayhems Orange dye to make a deeper orange without negative effects?


I would think so since Mayhems produce the EK-Ekoolant Pastel ORANGE


----------



## Malik

savage*PROJECT*


----------



## orndorf77

I am new to water cooling and I have x2 ek-fc780 gtx ti water blocks and a ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 . I changed a few fittings on my loop and when removing the fittings I got tiny black chips of paint on my hands that rubbed of my black fittings . I am pretty sure theses tiny black paint chips got inside my water loop . can these tiny black paint chips cause problems for me down the road ?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> savage*PROJECT*


Amazing Build







, Love this case, id love to own one, but it would be covered in dust in no time at all sadly


----------



## orndorf77

what does the pu anti-vortex foam that comes with the ek ddc 3.25 x-res do ?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Can you mix ek Pastel Orange and Add Mayhems Orange dye to make a deeper orange without negative effects?


On that same note I wonder how easy it is to make a nice burnt orange colour ^_^


----------



## derickwm

Malik <3


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Got asked to make a desktop picture for someone in my build log....He liked it too...


----------



## Blackops_2

Seems i have some of my fluid leaking on the jet plate inside, can't really see it in the picture but i can when looking at it in person. Is this normal? There have been no leaks as far for 5 hours as far as fittings or blocks are concerned.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You get a small amount of encroachment ,the portion up to the o-ring is open.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You get a small amount of encroachment ,the portion up to the o-ring is open.


Alright so normal? No worries?

BTW B Negative those EK fittings above are gorgeous. Really like the Yellow/black contrast.


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Alright so normal? No worries?
> 
> BTW B Negative those EK fittings above are gorgeous. Really like the Yellow/black contrast.


When are you going to peel the protective sticker on the EK logo off?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Got asked to make a desktop picture for someone in my build log....He liked it too...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful shot B.!!!


----------



## akira749

This is what happen when @Malik and @B NEGATIVE collides.....a marvelous dual wallpaper!


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyrannosaurus*
> 
> When are you going to peel the protective sticker on the EK logo off?


Lol was so paranoid about everything else i didn't even notice haha.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> This is what happen when @Malik and @B NEGATIVE collides.....a marvelous dual wallpaper!


Awesome


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> This is what happen when @Malik and @B NEGATIVE collides.....a marvelous dual wallpaper!


Thanks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Glad you like it,does it look ok on your monitor?

Would people be interested if I produced sticker packs for their fittings?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Glad you like it,does it look ok on your monitor?
> 
> Would people be interested if I produced sticker packs for their fittings?


The colors are perfect on my monitor!









Did you cut these with your Silhouette?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Glad you like it,does it look ok on your monitor?
> 
> Would people be interested if I produced sticker packs for their fittings?
> 
> 
> 
> The colors are perfect on my monitor!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you cut these with your Silhouette?
Click to expand...

Yes.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes.


I'm PM'ing you


----------



## orndorf77

is there any difference from the ek ddc 3.2 pwm x-res and the ek ddc 3.25 x-res besides that one pump is voltage controlled and the other is pwm controlled ? because I just bought the ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 about a week ago . is there any difference in performance from these 2 pumps ? I am new to water cooling and I thought the ddc 3.25 x-res was a newer version of the ddc 3.2 pwm x-res because 3.25 is a higher number


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> is there any difference from the ek ddc 3.2 pwm x-res and the ek ddc 3.25 x-res besides that one pump is voltage controlled and the other is pwm controlled ? because I just bought the ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 about a week ago . is there any difference in performance from these 2 pumps ? I am new to water cooling and I thought the ddc 3.25 x-res was a newer version of the ddc 3.2 pwm x-res because 3.25 is a higher number


Both pumps will give you about the same amount of performance. There's a small difference in power consumption between them but nothing major. You'll be good with the one you just bought









Here's a graph showing you the different DDC versions and the 3.2 and 3.25 are very close.


----------



## dervladimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recent pics from my new log....Thanks to Niko and Peter @ EK for their support of modders.
> 
> Rads to follow.


Nice work!


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Both pumps will give you about the same amount of performance. There's a small difference in power consumption between them but nothing major. You'll be good with the one you just bought
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a graph showing you the different DDC versions and the 3.2 and 3.25 are very close.


I under stand that the ddc 3.25 uses 20 watts and the ddc 3.2 pwm uses 18 watts . but I don't know what ft of hd is and I don't know what gpm is . it appears that the gpm is the same on both pumps. the ft of hd is higher on the ddc 3.25 . is higher better when it comes to ft of hd ?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I under stand that the ddc 3.25 uses 20 watts and the ddc 3.2 pwm uses 18 watts . but I don't know what ft of hd is and I don't know what gpm is . it appears that the gpm is the same on both pumps. the ft of hd is higher on the ddc 3.25 . is higher better when it comes to ft of hd ?


GPM is Gallon Per Minute and it indicates the flow rate of the pump.

Ft of Hd is Feet of Head and it indicates the amount of pressure it generate. This one is usually expressed in PSI instead of Ft/Hd.









The difference in pressure isn't that big don't worry about what you just bought


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> GPM is Gallon Per Minute and it indicates the flow rate of the pump.
> 
> Ft of Hd is Feet of Head and it indicates the amount of pressure it generate. This one is usually expressed in PSI instead of Ft/Hd.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The difference in pressure isn't that big don't worry about what you just bought


but regardless of which ddc pump is better 3.2 pwm or 3.25 . isn't the ek ddc pump better then say a alphacool ddc pump or a xspc ddc pump because of the top that ek uses on it ?


----------



## orndorf77

i am new to water cooling and I just bought a ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 last week . i have it installed and it is working great . but i am a little worried because i have been reading that the ddc 3.25 pumps over heat if kept on for long periods of time . i usually keep my computer on all day . will my ddc 3.25 over heat and die on me ? and if yes what can i do to prolong the life of my ek ddc 3.25 X-res 100 ? i can not lower the pumps speed because i did not get the pwm version


----------



## WhiteWulfe

The ddc heatsink can help out. Ek has a really nice one available in black or nickel, as do other companies (I believe bitspower and swiftech are two, and there may be more). One of the main things that causes the ddc pumps to overheat is running at fast speeds in a low restriction loop.

Wouldn't voltage control of the pump would also be an option?


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> The ddc heatsink can help out. Ek has a really nice one available in black or nickel, as do other companies (I believe bitspower and swiftech are two, and there may be more). One of the main things that causes the ddc pumps to overheat is running at fast speeds in a low restriction loop.
> 
> Wouldn't voltage control of the pump would also be an option?


do I have a low restriction loop ? I have a alphacool st30 240mm and a st30 360mm radiator x2 ek fc780 gtx ti water blocks in sli and a swiftech apogee xl cpu block


----------



## Pheozero

Wow. People on the EK facebook page are... yeah. I think the profanity filter would catch me


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Wow. People on the EK facebook page are... yeah. I think the profanity filter would catch me


You're talking about the comments on Gilberto's rig?


----------



## Pheozero

Yeah. I mean, everyone has an opinion but still. Calling someone's rig hideous annoys me. Maybe I need thicker skin


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Yeah. I mean, everyone has an opinion but still. Calling someone's rig hideous annoys me. Maybe I need thicker skin


I agree it's rude.

Critisms are only good when they are constructive


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Wow. People on the EK facebook page are... yeah. I think the profanity filter would catch me


its facebook in general, most people are just trying to get attention.

Youtube is the exact same way. Its so easy to get redirected to random pages that you have no interest in due to friends links and such, and then you get people commenting on things that they know nothing about or dont care about.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> do I have a low restriction loop ? I have a alphacool st30 240mm and a st30 360mm radiator x2 ek fc780 gtx ti water blocks in sli and a swiftech apogee xl cpu block


No. It will be completely safe to run at full speed. DDC pumps get hot at very high flow rates that are not really possible in a loop with more than a single block.


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> i am new to water cooling and I just bought a ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 last week . i have it installed and it is working great . but i am a little worried because i have been reading that the ddc 3.25 pumps over heat if kept on for long periods of time . i usually keep my computer on all day . will my ddc 3.25 over heat and die on me ? and if yes what can i do to prolong the life of my ek ddc 3.25 X-res 100 ? i can not lower the pumps speed because i did not get the pwm version


Just a couple of days ago I've installed my new XSPC DDC-1T Plus 3.2 (18w) with a Bitspower heatsink and Alphacool DDC Top. It's not an EK though but I know that they are from the same manufacturer which is Laing. Anyway, On my first run, the pump temp (I put a temp sensor from my mobo) reaches to 40 degrees and I was worried and sure that there is something wrong. My guess is that the pump draws too much power to spin the pump that's why It's generating heat so what I did is I loosen the mounting screws for the heatsink and top just enough not to leak and align it properly, the temps go down 32 max.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> do I have a low restriction loop ? I have a alphacool st30 240mm and a st30 360mm radiator x2 ek fc780 gtx ti water blocks in sli and a swiftech apogee xl cpu block


As for restriction, I found out that my rad is high restriction. I have an EK CPU and GPU Block and a Black Ice Stealth 420. From Pump-CPU-GPU-Rad, I can feel the pressure build up on the tubes by pinching it but after it goes out from the rad going to the reservoir the tubes are softer, in that sense I can say that my blocks are low restriction and my rad is high restriction.


----------



## DeviousAddict

Ok guys I've decided I'm going to buy a R9 290x Vapor X so that i can buy this block!



It's gorgeous









Why can't you make a block for my XFX cards







then i wouldn't have to fork out for a brand new card so i can have pretty waterblock.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> Ok guys I've decided I'm going to buy a R9 290x Vapor X so that i can buy this block!
> 
> 
> 
> It's gorgeous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why can't you make a block for my XFX cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then i wouldn't have to fork out for a brand new card so i can have pretty waterblock.


I own a EVGA Gtx 780 FTW... annnnndd No full block. Tell me about it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## DeviousAddict

OOOH pretty pictures








Love the EK logo on the fittings


----------



## redxmaverick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I see some nice 970 in this list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compatibility list for EK-FC670 GTX


Whoops. I should have said my 670s that use the EK-FC680 GTX+ are not compatible with either 970 or 980.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Back to the topic of DDC pumps, im getting a Dual DDC Pump setup to go threw a dual 180mm EK Rad, EK CPU, GPU, RAM, and Mobo Mosfet, will i run into issues with my pumps dying out faster?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Back to the topic of DDC pumps, im getting a Dual DDC Pump setup to go threw a dual 180mm EK Rad, EK CPU, GPU, RAM, and Mobo Mosfet, will i run into issues with my pumps dying out faster?


No more than anyone else,its a standard loop design you have.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No more than anyone else,its a standard loop design you have.


ok just making sure, this was the first i heard of DDC pumps over heating, so getting a heatsink is mostly just for show?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No more than anyone else,its a standard loop design you have.
> 
> 
> 
> ok just making sure, this was the first i heard of DDC pumps over heating, so getting a heatsink is mostly just for show?
Click to expand...

DDC pumps overheat in low restriction loops at full speed.
The heatsink is not for show tho.....DDC's get very toasty anyway.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> DDC pumps overheat in low restriction loops at full speed.
> The heatsink is not for show tho.....DDC's get very toasty anyway.


Which is why I'm getting an EK heatsink for mine. Only problem is I can't decide between black and nickel plated... disitions...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> DDC pumps overheat in low restriction loops at full speed.
> The heatsink is not for show tho.....DDC's get very toasty anyway.


Hmm.... I will have 180mm fan under it pushing cool air on the pumps, il keep an eye on it, if it seems to be to hot, i guess i will add a heatsink even tho it will make it hard to to mount..


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Which is why I'm getting an EK heatsink for mine. Only problem is I can't decide between black and nickel plated... disitions...


I just bought the Nickle Plated Heasink for my brothers M35x or w/e they call it







Uber sexy. Should be in on thursday.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

It is a solid heatsink,would of been nice to have a machined finish rather than the rough cast but its my only criticism. Its certainly priced well.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It is a solid heatsink,would of been nice to have a machined finish rather than the rough cast but its my only criticism. Its certainly priced well.


You Know I think it was only 22.00 USD now that I think of it?









And the little feet are so RoCKING!!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redxmaverick*
> 
> Whoops. I should have said my 670s that use the EK-FC680 GTX+ are not compatible with either 970 or 980.


Ah yes with this block no you don't have any 900 series choices


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> Ok guys I've decided I'm going to buy a R9 290x Vapor X so that i can buy this block!
> 
> 
> 
> It's gorgeous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why can't you make a block for my XFX cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then i wouldn't have to fork out for a brand new card so i can have pretty waterblock.


it really is a fantastic looking block, ive just fitted one on my vaporx with the ek backplate and it is stunning


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> Ok guys I've decided I'm going to buy a R9 290x Vapor X so that i can buy this block!
> 
> 
> 
> It's gorgeous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why can't you make a block for my XFX cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then i wouldn't have to fork out for a brand new card so i can have pretty waterblock.


That block makes me seriously consider picking one up... Until I see prices on the card itself


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Man, your photography skills have come leaps and bounds in the past half a year. You are taking some real beautiful photos.


----------



## Nichismo

Just got home from work to find this on my doorstep


----------



## Nichismo

*SIGH*



weirdest thing too....

When I picked up the box and looked at the orange "nickel plexi" text, I thought how upset id be if I got the wrong product. But I was thinking in the sense of the frosted vs clean plexi, and I remembered thats impossible because the frosted hasnt been made yet... My day off on wednesday to go to town on my rig is ruined

I was so anxious to get this block that I decided to order it from overseas directly from the company and pay for shipping thats almost 2/3 of the product itself.....No way am I going to ship it back....

and I get this.

WHY!! JUST WHY


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> That block makes me seriously consider picking one up... Until I see prices on the card itself


Yeah, that block looks really cool because of the way Sapphire designed those VRMs. And that the card is fully covered in acrylic. Do more of that EK! xD


----------



## Panther Al

For those of us looking at doing a X99 build and blocking the ram, Avexir has a 32gb kit that makes it easy to block, and a lovely matt black look:



And it is in stock*....

Link

*edit*

@Jameswalt1: Since you was looking for RAM in your last build, and it looks like you have another going that might be X99, perhaps this might help you as its pretty close to a blank slate as you come with RAM.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> For those of us looking at doing a X99 build and blocking the ram, Avexir has a 32gb kit that makes it easy to block, and a lovely matt black look:
> 
> And it is in stock*....
> 
> Link
> 
> *edit*
> 
> @Jameswalt1: Since you was looking for RAM in your last build, and it looks like you have another going that might be X99, perhaps this might help you as its pretty close to a blank slate as you come with RAM.


I actually already got a similar set from G Skill, ready for EK heatsinks and blocks


----------



## Pheozero

The Crucial Sport DDR4 also sports (see what I did there?







) a sexy matte black too. And its a bit cheaper too.


----------



## Nichismo

god and they are already out of stock everywhere too so I cant get a replacement for god knows how long. I swear I have the worst luck with this crap -_- Happened to me countless times in the past year

Contemplating just buying an all Nickel Supremacy and getting acetal ram blocks instead of the plexi ones I had lined up....

This sucks, so pissed!

I also placed an order on Friday with PPCs for the Rampage V waterblock, and now its monday night and I never got an email today confirming shipment... Ever since they changed their entire website skin and interface its been loaded with bugs and problems. Wouldnt be suprised if they tell me it was a mistake and they dont even have any of the blocks in stock -_-


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> *SIGH*
> 
> 
> 
> weirdest thing too....
> 
> When I picked up the box and looked at the orange "nickel plexi" text, I thought how upset id be if I got the wrong product. But I was thinking in the sense of the frosted vs clean plexi, and I remembered thats impossible because the frosted hasnt been made yet... My day off on wednesday to go to town on my rig is ruined
> 
> I was so anxious to get this block that I decided to order it from overseas directly from the company and pay for shipping thats almost 2/3 of the product itself.....No way am I going to ship it back....
> 
> and I get this.
> 
> WHY!! JUST WHY


Did you open a ticket on the EK website about this issue?


----------



## nullsign

So I'm going to watercool the rig Im about to order; my question is - is it better to get the http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-x360.html EK-KIT-X360, or buy the parts separately to get other/better items from EK?

What in the x360 kit needs to be bumped up to run a haswell 4.0ghz and a dual GTX 980?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nullsign*
> 
> So I'm going to watercool the rig Im about to order; my question is - is it better to get the http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-x360.html EK-KIT-X360, or buy the parts separately to get other/better items from EK?
> 
> What in the x360 kit needs to be bumped up to run a haswell 4.0ghz and a dual GTX 980?


This kit is a great kit!

You don't have to change anything in this kit to run your setup.

And if your case can handle a second radiator, you could add let's say a 240mm rad in your loop for a greater cooling potential later.


----------



## HRCSHOP

*Our new project!*

*IN WIN TOU*


----------



## nullsign

Not sure if I can handle a 2nd radiator, I'm going to get the in win s-frame, it's an open air case that seems fairly roomy.


----------



## dean_8486

Is there an eta for the 970 G1 waterblocks?


----------



## gdubc

YES! Linkhttps://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=753666401354060


----------



## VSG

Yeah saw them, might well pick up a triple parallel to check out.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nullsign*
> 
> Not sure if I can handle a 2nd radiator, I'm going to get the in win s-frame, it's an open air case that seems fairly roomy.


The S-Frame can only handle a 360 so you would be all set with the EK-360 plus your GPU blocks and extra fittings for those blocks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> YES! Linkhttps://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=753666401354060


Pure beauty!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah saw them, might well pick up a triple parallel to check out.


This ^^


----------



## Buehlar

I'm just gonna spam here too!
These are the SEXIEST water blocks ever made! original CSQ FTW


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dean_8486*
> 
> Is there an eta for the 970 G1 waterblocks?


Trying to find the same info. I had seen a reply a few weeks back that they were working on the 970 blocks and I'm pretty sure I also saw something that stated more info in about 3 weeks (Pretty sure that time frame has passed and I haven't been able to find any updated info since).


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The S-Frame can only handle a 360 so you would be all set with the EK-360 plus your GPU blocks and extra fittings for those blocks


Anything can be made to fit.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> I'm just gonna spam here too!
> These are the SEXIEST water blocks ever made! original CSQ FTW


is that a real working computer ? it reminds me of some kind of Christmas decoration .


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Anything can be made to fit.


Yes but I can't make a recommendation based on the modding factor









I must stick with the stock possibilities of the case


----------



## Pheozero

@derickwmPlease show this installed with some Mayhems in it.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes but I can't make a recommendation based on the modding factor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must stick with the stock possibilities of the case


True! But can't we agree that when it comes to water, there is always some modding involved of some kind?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> True! But can't we agree that when it comes to water, there is always some modding involved of some kind?


Not always but I agree that the modding comes fast


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> is that a real working computer ? it reminds me of some kind of Christmas decoration .


Well I'm typing this post on it...so ya








'tis the season







...and it's cool to see so many comment that it reminds them of something other than a computer. Mission accomplished!


----------



## orndorf77

my ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 is more loud then when I first installed it . is this normal ?

I just bought my ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 about 3 weeks ago and since then I already flushed out my loop 3 times and filled it 4 times because I changed some fittings around . the first time I filled my loop the pump barley made a sound . and now I can hear it . it is not loud but when i first boot up my computer i can hear the pump until my fans speed up and once the fans speed up i don't hear the pump any more . the pump is not loud but it is definitely louder then the first time i filled it and had it running . is this normal ?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> my ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 is more loud then when I first installed it . is this normal ?
> 
> I just bought my ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 about 3 weeks ago and since then I already flushed out my loop 3 times and filled it 4 times because I changed some fittings around . the first time I filled my loop the pump barley made a sound . and now I can hear it . it is not loud but when i first boot up my computer i can hear the pump until my fans speed up and once the fans speed up i don't hear the pump any more . the pump is not loud but it is definitely louder then the first time i filled it and had it running . is this normal ?


It might simply be some air bubbles trapped in the pump


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It might simply be some air bubbles trapped in the pump


i ran my pump for 5 hours when I filled it and I have been running my computer with it for 5 days. I don't think it is air bubbles It sounds like the pump . are the ddc pumps supposed to be silent ?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> i ran my pump for 5 hours when I filled it and I have been running my computer with it for 5 days. I don't think it is air bubbles It sounds like the pump . are the ddc pumps supposed to be silent ?


Not as a D5 but pretty silent....but the problem with this notion is that the word "silent" is different for everyone...


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> i ran my pump for 5 hours when I filled it and I have been running my computer with it for 5 days. I don't think it is air bubbles It sounds like the pump . are the ddc pumps supposed to be silent ?


Maybe there is some debris inside the pump.


----------



## VSG

EK FC-M6F blocks after I was done with them:


----------



## Blackspots

The new revised GTX970 GPU waterblocks, when will these be out exactly? Also, with the ASUS Strix, will the new DCII waterblock for it cover the entire card?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> EK FC-M6F blocks after I was done with them:


Doing a blood or horror movie theme???


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> my ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 is more loud then when I first installed it . is this normal ?
> 
> I just bought my ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 about 3 weeks ago and since then I already flushed out my loop 3 times and filled it 4 times because I changed some fittings around . the first time I filled my loop the pump barley made a sound . and now I can hear it . it is not loud but when i first boot up my computer i can hear the pump until my fans speed up and once the fans speed up i don't hear the pump any more . the pump is not loud but it is definitely louder then the first time i filled it and had it running . is this normal ?


I have a DCP 2.2 and it buzzes like crazy, they're supposed to be quiet but after a quick google I can see I'm not the only one questioning how deaf the people over at EK are....


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Doing a blood or horror movie theme???


Not exactly: http://www.overclock.net/t/1491508/sponsored-the-utterly-imbalanced-caselabs-tx10-d-build-s/600_50#post_23072123


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> EK FC-M6F blocks after I was done with them:


Nice!


----------



## King4x4

That zombie bloodlust theme!


----------



## akira749

Here's some shots of my completed Xenomorph build with amazing EK stuff


----------



## SteezyTN

ADD ME IN









My FC780's (the black full block) and backplates are arriving Saturday. First time watercooling. Can't wait for them to get here. Its like Christmas when I open up something like this. (MY WALLET HATES ME)


----------



## HITTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


Hey, B Negative. Would you happen to have a .7z, zip or rar of all of your custom made wallpapers? If not could you .z7, zip or rar them for us to download?

Unless these are all of them?
http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/lightbox/

Be awesome.









Thanks, bud.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, B Negative. Would you happen to have a .7z, zip or rar of all of your custom made wallpapers? If not could you .z7, zip or rar them for us to download?
> 
> Unless these are all of them?
> http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/lightbox/
> 
> Be awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, bud.
Click to expand...

Look in my LUMO log,if there is a pic you like then you can have the original sized pic 3XXX by 2XXX...I never remember as it gets resized for forums....


----------



## SteezyTN

So I'm just sitting here waiting... And waiting... And waiting for my ek 780 blocks to arrive. But they are arriving tomorrow. I cannot wait one more second!!! I may lose my mind haha.


----------



## bigporl

EK 780 waterblock arriving tomorrow or monday. £32 bargain.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> EK 780 waterblock arriving tomorrow or monday. £32 bargain.


Nice. I got two for $96.34 each and $27.36 for each backplate. Came to $247.40 not including shipping. THEY ARE COMING TOMORROW MORNING







:thumb:


----------



## bigporl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Nice. I got two for $96.34 each and $27.36 for each backplate. Came to $247.40 not including shipping. THEY ARE COMING TOMORROW MORNING
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :thumb:


Which ones did you get i got the csq new style full length. Would have preferred the old style with the old fittings which they only do in the short version but i wanted the full length.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> Which ones did you get i got the csq new style full length. Would have preferred the old style with the old fittings which they only do in the short version but i wanted the full length.


I purchased the EK-FC780 GTX Ti Full Cover acetal ones. Its the all black versions. I also picked up the Dual 3 slot parallel terminal because I'm using SLI.


----------



## bigporl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I purchased the EK-FC780 GTX Ti Full Cover acetal ones. Its the all black versions. I also picked up the Dual 3 slot parallel terminal because I'm using SLI.


☺


----------



## RoverVampire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoverVampire*
> 
> How do I remove these 4 screws that secures the south stock cooler on asus r5e.
> 
> 
> I am trying to fix the ek mb water block.


----------



## akira749

@RoverVampire, use a pair of pliers of a wescot to hold the hex shaped peg and unscrew the phillips screws under the board.

In fact the 4 remaining pegs on the board should have stayed on the Asus heatsink in the first place....it's wierd


----------



## FrancisJF

EK Supremacy EVO, x2 EK FC-r9 290x, EK 150 Reservoir , Swiftech MCP355 w/ EK-DDC Pump top and 2x EK Coolstream PE 360 radiators.


----------



## RoverVampire

Exactly that was what I figured out. But it is really difficult and I am afraid that I would break the mb. Even tried putting the heat sink back and unscrewing again. Will have to keep trying, I guess. Thanks for reassuring.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoverVampire*
> 
> Exactly that was what I figured out. But it is really difficult and I am afraid that I would break the mb. Even tried putting the heat sink back and unscrewing again. Will have to keep trying, I guess. Thanks for reassuring.


Let us know if it worked


----------



## RoverVampire

Tools I had to use. Atlast. Hope my mb is safe.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoverVampire*
> 
> Tools I had to use. Atlast. Hope my mb is safe.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Unless you banged it, you should not be worry


----------



## Buehlar

umm Thanks EK!









...anybody in need of some allen keys? I have another bag full about twice this many in my other toolbox!


----------



## orndorf77

my ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 is vibrating a lot . when I first installed it I did not hear any vibrating . now I hear it vibrating a lot . I have it mounted on top of the ssd cage above my power supply in my corsair air 540 case . i have not changed the way my ek ddc 3.25 is mounted inside my case . why is my pump suddenly vibrating like crazy ? and should i be worried about the screws in the pump becoming loose from all the vibrating and water leaking out ? and how can i stop the pump from vibrating ? here is a photo of how i have the ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 mounted inside my case


----------



## FrancisJF

Decoupling the pump and reservoir helped me from vibration and noise issues.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> Decoupling the pump and reservoir helped me from vibration and noise issues.


I am new at water cooling . what is decoupling ? and how do you do it ? and should I be worried about screws on the pump vibrating loose and water leaking out ?


----------



## FrancisJF

You don't need to worry about the screws on the pump. For decoupling is like detaching the pump from the reservoir. All you need to buy ddc pump tops, theres EK Acetal or Acrylic and to replace the bottom is X3 Reservoir Multiport. Hope that helps.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> my ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 is vibrating a lot . when I first installed it I did not hear any vibrating . now I hear it vibrating a lot . I have it mounted on top of the ssd cage above my power supply in my corsair air 540 case . i have not changed the way my ek ddc 3.25 is mounted inside my case . why is my pump suddenly vibrating like crazy ? and should i be worried about the screws in the pump becoming loose from all the vibrating and water leaking out ? and how can i stop the pump from vibrating ? here is a photo of how i have the ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 mounted inside my case
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How did you secured your pump assembly in your case?


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> How did you secured your pump assembly in your case?


I used a 2 sided tape that holds up to 5 pounds . the tape is real good I can flip my case upside down and the pump stays in place . and if I want to un mount the pump all I have to do is give a wiggle and a twist and its off .


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I used a 2 sided tape that holds up to 5 pounds . the tape is real good I can flip my case upside down and the pump stays in place . and if I want to un mount the pump all I have to do is give a wiggle and a twist and its off .


Decoupling AFAIK is removing the contact between the pump and your CASE... If you can't find a place to properly mount the pump/res then I suggest the sponge method. You basically just put a sponge between your pump and wherever it's mounted to absorb the vibrations.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I used a 2 sided tape that holds up to 5 pounds . the tape is real good I can flip my case upside down and the pump stays in place . and if I want to un mount the pump all I have to do is give a wiggle and a twist and its off .


The double sided tape might be a nice solution but it will transmit all the vibration of the pump to the case. If you buy the EK heatsink it comes with some rubber feet or the sponge method like brandotip talked.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Decoupling AFAIK is removing the contact between the pump and your CASE... If you can't find a place to properly mount the pump/res then I suggest the sponge method. You basically just put a sponge between your pump and wherever it's mounted to absorb the vibrations.


This is the right definition of decoupling


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Dunno about the graphics tho.....


----------



## laxboimike

Hey everyone!
So I run a two rad set up in my enthoo primo a 480 PE on top and a 240 xtx on bottom I cool my two 780s my mobo (full block) and my cpu in that order. I know this is not the ideal order but I did it for the look mainly. Now I want to bring just my cpu temps down so basically my question is do I run a third rad 240 on the front and break the loop into two seperate loops with the vid cards alone on the 480 and 240 and the cpu and mobo on a 240 ? Or break my two rads apart and run two seperate loops off them and which rad to which loop? Sorry if I'm unclear I will try to explain it better if I'm not! Thank you!


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Decoupling AFAIK is removing the contact between the pump and your CASE... If you can't find a place to properly mount the pump/res then I suggest the sponge method. You basically just put a sponge between your pump and wherever it's mounted to absorb the vibrations.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The double sided tape might be a nice solution but it will transmit all the vibration of the pump to the case. If you buy the EK heatsink it comes with some rubber feet or the sponge method like brandotip talked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the right definition of decoupling


if I use the sponge method can I stick the ddc 3.25 to the sponge with the 2 sided tape and stick the sponge to my case with the 2 sided tape ?


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> Decoupling the pump and reservoir helped me from vibration and noise issues.


More specifically, decoupling the pump/reservoir from the case should help. The reservoir can stay attached to the pump so long as the vibrations don't get transmitted to the case.

I have two D5's with aquacomputer reservoirs attached to them. They're attached to the case with the decoupling rubber screws. If your pump is attached to the case, try something like the following.

http://www.coolerkit.dk/shop/aqua-computer-decoupling-4480p.html

If your pump and res is merely sitting on something, you could alternatively try something like this. Just make sure vibrations don't get transmitted to the case.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21286/ex-pmp-259/Aquacomputer_Shoggy_Sandwich_Pump_Decoupling_Kit_-_Black_Black_.html


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> More specifically, decoupling the pump/reservoir from the case should help. The reservoir can stay attached to the pump so long as the vibrations don't get transmitted to the case.
> 
> I have two D5's with aquacomputer reservoirs attached to them. They're attached to the case with the decoupling rubber screws. If your pump is attached to the case, try something like the following.
> 
> http://www.coolerkit.dk/shop/aqua-computer-decoupling-4480p.html
> 
> If your pump and res is merely sitting on something, you could alternatively try something like this. Just make sure vibrations don't get transmitted to the case.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21286/ex-pmp-259/Aquacomputer_Shoggy_Sandwich_Pump_Decoupling_Kit_-_Black_Black_.html


I am the one having issues with my ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 vibrating . I have it mounted on top of the ssd cage that is above my power supply in my corsair air 540 with 2 sided tape . is vibrating bad for the pump ?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> if I use the sponge method can I stick the ddc 3.25 to the sponge with the 2 sided tape and stick the sponge to my case with the 2 sided tape ?


I don't see why it would not work. The important concept is to isolate the pump assembly from the case.









The vibration won't damage your pump since it's the one that generates the vibrations with it's motor


----------



## SteezyTN

So I ordered two EK-FC780 GTX Ti waterblocks for my 6GB 780's (along with backplates and tubing) from performance-pcs. My package was suppose to be delivered today via FedEx, and it wasn't. I checked the tracking number, and it said N/A. Very upset with this. I know it's no big deal, but when you pay like $16 (which was the cheapest), it's very upsetting when you don't get it on time. I'm in northern California, and the last update on the tracking was October 31st at 1AM in Utah. Today's is November 1st. If I don't get it by tomorrow, I'm going to see if PPCS can refund me some of the shipping cost (because I know fedex refunds if delivery date is past the estimated). I was planning to finish my build tonight, but it looks like that isn't happening.


----------



## SteezyTN

Well this is a bummer. My waterblocks got delayed till Tuesday. That's 3 more days I'm set back. Yippee!!! Lol


----------



## Qu1ckset

Is the EKWB M6G Mosfet the same as the M7G? will it work on the M7G? i found on for cheap locally and need to know..


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Is the EKWB M6G Mosfet the same as the M7G? will it work on the M7G? i found on for cheap locally and need to know..


No it won't there's some small differences


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No it won't there's some small differences


Thanks


----------



## sinnedone

Is the Supremacy jet plate made out of stainless steel or some sort of coated steel?

Also both of my R9 290 acrylic blocks have cracks where the o-rings sit under the stainless plate.
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/IMAG3567_zpsd21vxdnt.jpg.html

I know I've seen this before and just wanted to bring it up. Might want to look into a different machining technique to keep this from happening. It doesn't look like it will leak, but its a bit unsettling.


----------



## Georgey123

Might be a stretch but an anyone from EK comment on this about the 980 Classy. Its believed that 780 Classy block fits on the 980 Classy.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301375757407


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Is the Supremacy jet plate made out of stainless steel or some sort of coated steel?
> 
> Also both of my R9 290 acrylic blocks have cracks where the o-rings sit under the stainless plate.
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/IMAG3567_zpsd21vxdnt.jpg.html
> 
> I know I've seen this before and just wanted to bring it up. Might want to look into a different machining technique to keep this from happening. It doesn't look like it will leak, but its a bit unsettling.


check my build log ,my blocks had the same issue. and i know how it feels and thanks to great ek guys who listen their customers , fixed this by making modification on the tops .I suggest you RMA


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Is the Supremacy jet plate made out of stainless steel or some sort of coated steel?


It's stainless steel


----------



## orndorf77

I have a ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 and I have it mounted inside my corsair air 540 on top of the ssd cage above my power supply and I am hearing a lot of vibrating . on the website I ordered the pump + res combo from it says mounting mechanism included but there was no mounting mechanism in the package the pump + res came in . was the ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 supposed to come with a mounting mechanism ?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I have a ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 and I have it mounted inside my corsair air 540 on top of the ssd cage above my power supply and I am hearing a lot of vibrating . on the website I ordered the pump + res combo from it says mounting mechanism included but there was no mounting mechanism in the package the pump + res came in . was the ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 supposed to come with a mounting mechanism ?


Where did you bought your kit?

I'm pretty sure it's a mistake from this website because if you go on the EK website for the EK DDC 3.2 X-Res 100 which is the same kit except the pump differ in model, there's no indication of any mounting hardware included in our kits. Also, when I received my EK DDC 3.2 X-Res 140 kit recently, there was no mounting hardware included.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Where did you bought your kit?
> 
> I'm pretty sure it's a mistake from this website because if you go on the EK website for the EK DDC 3.2 X-Res 100 which is the same kit except the pump differ in model, there's no indication of any mounting hardware included in our kits. Also, when I received my EK DDC 3.2 X-Res 140 kit recently, there was no mounting hardware included.


I got my ddc 3.25 x-res 100 from performance pc-s . I have to decouple my pump . should I buy the aquacool decoupling sandwich for $9 or should I just go to the dollar store and buy a sponge for $1 ? what did you use to decouple yours with ?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Might be a stretch but an anyone from EK comment on this about the 980 Classy. Its believed that 780 Classy block fits on the 980 Classy.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/301375757407


Autoplay of some terrible music at 630am.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I got my ddc 3.25 x-res 100 from performance pc-s . I have to decouple my pump . should I buy the aquacool decoupling sandwich for $9 or should I just go to the dollar store and buy a sponge for $1 ? what did you use to decouple yours with ?


The PPCS website is wrong then....

The Aquacomputer sandwich would do the job yes.

My pump sits on an EK heatsink which has 4 rubber feet for decoupling.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Autoplay of some terrible music at 630am.


And some multicolor flashes


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The PPCS website is wrong then....
> 
> The Aquacomputer sandwich would do the job yes.
> 
> My pump sits on an EK heatsink which has 4 rubber feet for decoupling.
> 
> 
> And some multicolor flashes


wow that looks awesome is that a tequila worm in your reservoir ?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> wow that looks awesome is that a tequila worm in your reservoir ?


No it's a chestburster. It's one of the little monster in the Aliens movie


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> wow that looks awesome is that a tequila worm in your reservoir ?


A tequila worm HA. Your nuts.


----------



## orndorf77

I just ordered a aquacomputer shoggy sandwich for my ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 how do I attach the pump to the shoggy sandwich there is no mounting holes on the ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Might be a stretch but an anyone from EK comment on this about the 980 Classy. Its believed that 780 Classy block fits on the 980 Classy.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/301375757407


Aw dude I was hoping I'd never see slinky again.


----------



## Georgey123

Ye my bad, should have mentioned the music on the page as well. He apparently is not selling overclock.net members from when people have pm'ed him


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Might be a stretch but an anyone from EK comment on this about the 980 Classy. Its believed that 780 Classy block fits on the 980 Classy.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/301375757407


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Ye my bad, should have mentioned the music on the page as well. He apparently is not selling overclock.net members from when people have pm'ed him


I can't say if the 780 classy block totally fit on a 980 classy but as of the last update in the coolingconfigurator, the 980 classy is listed with a "coming soon" block and no compatibility with the 780 classy block.

So even if both 780 and 980 pcb's have some common layout designs, EK decided to engineer a new block for the new card instead of making the already in production one compatible for it so they must consider that the small changes in the layout are important enough









So maybe this Ebay guy have been able to fit a 780 block on a 980 card but....who knows....


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I can't say if the 780 classy block totally fit on a 980 classy but as of the last update in the coolingconfigurator, the 980 classy is listed with a "coming soon" block and no compatibility with the 780 classy block.
> 
> So even if both 780 and 980 pcb's have some common layout designs, EK decided to engineer a new block for the new card instead of making the already in production one compatible for it so they must consider that the small changes in the layout are important enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So maybe this Ebay guy have been able to fit a 780 block on a 980 card but....who knows....


If you compare his pics of the PCB with a 780 classy the overall layout and mounting holes are clearly the same but there are also sections that have been moved around. Including a couple of parts that look like they would risk touching and shorting on the water block.





A couple of the far left and bottom mounting holes have been moved too. So it look like the very left side mount points on the water block might not be usable.


----------



## OverK1LL

Does anyone know if the EK CoolStream 420 XTC are flush on the back? I was wondering if the G 1/4 plug protruded beyond the radiator.

I can't for the life of me find a picture of the side profile.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverK1LL*
> 
> Does anyone know if the EK CoolStream 420 XTC are flush on the back? I was wondering if the G 1/4 plug protruded beyond the radiator.
> 
> I can't for the life of me find a picture of the side profile.


The 420 XTC doesn't have a G1/4 plug on the back like the XTX.

XTC :


XTX :


----------



## OverK1LL

Thanks for your help. I probably should have explained myself better - I meant the other side.

I was wondering if I could mount it to my CaseLabs mounting bracket. My current radiator HF4 isn't flush. This happens:



Whereas I would like it to look like this:


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverK1LL*
> 
> Thanks for your help. I probably should have explained myself better - I meant the other side.
> 
> I was wondering if I could mount it to my CaseLabs mounting bracket. My current radiator HF4 isn't flush. This happens:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whereas I would like it to look like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ah ok I understand what you mean now









In this case, i'm pretty sure you'll be okay.

As you said findiing some side shot of the XTC is not easy. But after some times I found one courtesy of L3P











The rad on the left is an XTC 140 and as you can see, the stop plug is almost flush with the side of the rad.


----------



## SteezyTN

Yay


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> A tequila worm HA. Your nuts.


LOLZ


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> LOLZ


One of those Times you're at a party and someone says that and you just look around at everyone to confirm that someone asked a question like that. When I read that question I was in my living room alone and looked around for confirmation.... Guess I'm the crazy one eh? LMao







I would drink something that had the Chestburster in it though. True story.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Changed the graphic,this is much better than the last.


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## HITTI

@B, I like that a lot. Just wow. Dunno how you guys do it.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


That looks so good









BTW, what is that shroud for the fans you have there? I have been looking for something like that for my own build but I prity much settled on making one of my own out of acrylic.


----------



## VSG

FYI: http://www.ekwb.com/news/543/19/EK-Supremacy-EVO-now-shipping-with-brand-new-Jet-J3-for-LGA-2011-3-CPUs/

Relevant quote:
Quote:


> The new jet plate J3 with every newly assembled EK-Supremacy EVO water block at no additional cost. EK is also giving away 1000 (one thousand) free J3 jet plates to our existing users - these will also be distributed among our resellers. They come free of charge other than the shipping fee (for end customer there is a limit of 2 free jet plates per order) and are available through EK Webshop and Partner Reseller Network.


----------



## SteezyTN

So I was just filling up my loop, and I got a massive leak. It was coming from my GPU's. I have two EK-FC780 GTX Ti (All black - acetal) and I'm using the Dual Parallel Terminal. Took out the cards, and water was leaking like crazy. It got all in my cards (not that bad- I have backplates), and leaked a little down my motherboard. I will let them dry out a little, and reinstall them tomorrow. I really hope I didn't break my two 780's







It was mainly leaking from the terminal and where the blocks were connected. Before I install them into the loop, I will add some extra tubing and leak test it before. Wish me luck!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I was just filling up my loop, and I got a massive leak. It was coming from my GPU's. I have two EK-FC780 GTX Ti (All black - acetal) and I'm using the Dual Parallel Terminal. Took out the cards, and water was leaking like crazy. It got all in my cards (not that bad- I have backplates), and leaked a little down my motherboard. I will let them dry out a little, and reinstall them tomorrow. I really hope I didn't break my two 780's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was mainly leaking from the terminal and where the blocks were connected. Before I install them into the loop, I will add some extra tubing and leak test it before. Wish me luck!


It sounds like maybe the o-rings on the terminals are out of place. I've spilt water over cards and motherboard plenty of times when I was learning and it never caused any problems. Just be sure to thoroughly dry them.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It sounds like maybe the o-rings on the terminals are out of place. I've spilt water over cards and motherboard plenty of times when I was learning and it never caused any problems. Just be sure to thoroughly dry them.


Thanks for a response. I believe that was the issue. There was a little water here and there on the back and on the gpu side. I took off the backplate and the actual waterblock, and I'll let them dry overnight. When I reinstall the blocks and terminal, I will leak test them (add some tubing on the end of the terminal and add some distilled water to see... over the sink) before installing them to my loop. I'm scared to to turn the computer on and find out I broke them lol. I'm so glad I decided on getting the backplates







but I kind wish I went with 2 fittings and tubing rather than the terminal.


----------



## xarot

The O-rings on terminals are a real pain in the ass. Especially with 3-way and 4-way SLI. I was always super nervous when installing those as it was tough to get them to stay in place. It's a must that they stay in place themselves before connecting the terminal to the blocks. Now I've done it a few times so it's a tad easier. At first I was like 'challenge accepted'...

By they way, sure you installed the O-rings? :O


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> The O-rings on terminals are a real pain in the ass. Especially with 3-way and 4-way SLI. I was always super nervous when installing those as it was tough to get them to stay in place. It's a must that they stay in place themselves before connecting the terminal to the blocks. Now I've done it a few times so it's a tad easier. At first I was like 'challenge accepted'...
> 
> By they way, sure you installed the O-rings? :O


yeah they were installed. That's why I was surprised I had a leak


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> yeah they were installed. That's why I was surprised I had a leak


Do you have plexi or acetal blocks? If you have plexi block just make sure you didn't crack the block when you installed the multi-gpu bridge. Plexi block have to be gently handled. Overtightning the screws have happened...myself included


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> The O-rings on terminals are a real pain in the ass. Especially with 3-way and 4-way SLI. I was always super nervous when installing those as it was tough to get them to stay in place. It's a must that they stay in place themselves before connecting the terminal to the blocks. Now I've done it a few times so it's a tad easier. At first I was like 'challenge accepted'...
> 
> By they way, sure you installed the O-rings? :O


Pro tip: coat the o-rings lightly with silicone lube and they just stick in place. Job done.


----------



## akira749

WOOT!!!!









EK introduces GIGABYTE X99 series motherboard water blocks


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> WOOT!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK introduces GIGABYTE X99 series motherboard water blocks


By the gods that soc force is sexy!! ...Wow.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Do you have plexi or acetal blocks? If you have plexi block just make sure you didn't crack the block when you installed the multi-gpu bridge. Plexi block have to be gently handled. Overtightning the screws have happened...myself included


I have just the acetal 3 slot parallel terminal. First time doing GPU's, so good time I'll leak test it before I actually install it to the loop.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have just the acetal 3 slot parallel terminal. First time doing GPU's, so good time I'll leak test it before I actually install it to the loop.


Ok for the terminal but i'm talking about your GPU blocks. Plexi or Acetal?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> By the gods that soc force is sexy!! ...Wow.


So true!!!! It almost makes me want to switch my X99-UD5 for it!!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Ok for the terminal but i'm talking about your GPU blocks. Plexi or Acetal?


Sorry, thought you meant terminal. But I have the all black copper/acetal blocks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Sorry, thought you meant terminal. But I have the all black copper/acetal blocks


No problems









Since you have the acetal blocks they are stronger than plexi so I would be surprised that your leak was caused by a cracked block.

So the O-Ring misplacement might be the reason.

Let us know


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since you have the acetal blocks they are stronger than plexi so I would be surprised that your leak was caused by a cracked block.
> 
> So the O-Ring misplacement might be the reason.
> 
> Let us know


Yeah I believe it was the O-Rings (I hope lol). Water was leaking like crazy. It got on my cards, but wasn't to bad. They been drying out for the past 14 hours, so hopefully I didn't ruin them.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Yeah I believe it was the O-Rings (I hope lol). Water was leaking like crazy. It got on my cards, but wasn't to bad. They been drying out for the past 14 hours, so hopefully I didn't ruin them.


You were running with your PSU "jumped" with something like this?



If yes, then you should be ok


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You were running with your PSU "jumped" with something like this?
> 
> 
> 
> If yes, then you should be ok


Yes I was. I have the XSPC RX360 + Photon 170 and it came with the "jumper."

Ok going to let them dry out a few more hours, and install the backplates tonight


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Yes I was. I have the XSPC RX360 + Photon 170 and it came with the "jumper."
> 
> Ok going to let them dry out a few more hours, and install the backplates tonight


----------



## Ragsters

Hey guys! I know I have asked this question before and have even recieved my answer but I cant find the post anywhere. Which is the CSQ xfire bridge I need for my Maximus V Formula? Thanks guys!

Edit: NVM guys I think I figured it out. Its this one right?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17486/ex-blc-1352/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Parallel_3-Slot_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Acrylic_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Parallel_3-Slot_CSQ_Plexi.html?tl=g57c593s1896


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Hey guys! I know I have asked this question before and have even recieved my answer but I cant find the post anywhere. Which is the CSQ xfire bridge I need for my Maximus V Formula? Thanks guys!
> 
> Edit: NVM guys I think I figured it out. Its this one right?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17486/ex-blc-1352/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Parallel_3-Slot_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Acrylic_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Parallel_3-Slot_CSQ_Plexi.html?tl=g57c593s1896


That would be this one :

EK-FC Bridge DUAL Parallel 3-Slot CSQ Plexi

or this one :

EK-FC Bridge DUAL Serial 3-Slot CSQ Plexi

Depending on your choice of parallel or serial.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> That would be this one :
> 
> EK-FC Bridge DUAL Parallel 3-Slot CSQ Plexi
> 
> or this one :
> 
> EK-FC Bridge DUAL Serial 3-Slot CSQ Plexi
> 
> Depending on your choice of parallel or serial.


Thanks Akira!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> So true!!!! It almost makes me want to switch my X99-UD5 for it!!


How are you finding the BIOS on the Gigabyte X99 boards? I was originally considering the MSI Gaming 9 AC but after seeing a full set of blocks on the X99 SOC Force I know I have to stick with the orange and black ^_^;;;; I'd heard reports of a few teething problems, but nothing really concrete.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*


i just leak tested it out of the loop, and got no leaks. Installing it to the loop now, so I'll let ya know and I'll leak test it in a few


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> How are you finding the BIOS on the Gigabyte X99 boards? I was originally considering the MSI Gaming 9 AC but after seeing a full set of blocks on the X99 SOC Force I know I have to stick with the orange and black ^_^;;;; I'd heard reports of a few teething problems, but nothing really concrete.


It takes a few moments to figure it out but it's fairly easy to manage. So far I have nothing bad to say about it


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It takes a few moments to figure it out but it's fairly easy to manage. So far I have nothing bad to say about it


Definitely good to know! After I update my current motherboard to it's bigger brother (because the single ek block just looks so muh nicer on the oc force!!) I'm probably going to put my own x99 plan into action and the thought of two gigabyte oc series motherboards on my desk just feels right ^-^


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pro tip: coat the o-rings lightly with silicone lube and they just stick in place. Job done.


Thanks, repped. If any extra lube goes in the loop upon installation it's not harmful?


----------



## SteezyTN

Passed the leak test out of the case











I installed it to the loop and I'm currently leak testing now. AND, temps are amazing. Hasn't hit over 43c


----------



## VSG

The cat's finally out of the bag:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ENTERPRISE*
> 
> Hello all !
> 
> Please welcome akira749
> as a new REP from EK Waterblocks


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The cat's finally out of the bag:


Wait what!!??? That's great news! Couldn't of happen to a better person. Where are you so we can congratulate you Akira?


----------



## derickwm

Just so everyone knows, I wasn't fired







I'll still be around but Akira will be the main point of contact from now on as I don't really have as much time to commit to forums as I used to unfortunately.

Akira #1


----------



## VSG

^ Excuses, excuses!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Passed the leak test out of the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I installed it to the loop and I'm currently leak testing now. AND, temps are amazing. Hasn't hit over 43c


Great news!!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The cat's finally out of the bag:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Wait what!!??? That's great news! Couldn't of happen to a better person. Where are you so we can congratulate you Akira?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just so everyone knows, I wasn't fired
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll still be around but Akira will be the main point of contact from now on as I don't really have as much time to commit to forums as I used to unfortunately.
> 
> Akira #1


Thanks guys!









And a special thanks to Derick for trusting me!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just so everyone knows, I wasn't fired
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll still be around but Akira will be the main point of contact from now on as I don't really have as much time to commit to forums as I used to unfortunately.
> 
> Akira #1


*** Derick....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Passed the leak test out of the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I installed it to the loop and I'm currently leak testing now. AND, temps are amazing. Hasn't hit over 43c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great news!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The cat's finally out of the bag:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Wait what!!??? That's great news! Couldn't of happen to a better person. Where are you so we can congratulate you Akira?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just so everyone knows, I wasn't fired
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll still be around but Akira will be the main point of contact from now on as I don't really have as much time to commit to forums as I used to unfortunately.
> 
> Akira #1
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a special thanks to Derick for trusting me!!!
Click to expand...

What really happened is Derick got sick of requests for 480 blocks.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *** Derick....
> What really happened is Derick got sick of requests for 480 blocks.


Ha. Love that one


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *** Derick....
> What really happened is Derick got sick of requests for 480 blocks.


and my requests for gtx260 216core full cover blocks.


----------



## derickwm

Yeah...


----------



## Pheozero

You sure it wasn't the many, many, maaaaaaaaaannnnnnyyyy requests for 970 blocks?


----------



## OverK1LL

First time build using EK parts. The build quality is quite impressive.


----------



## VSG

Love that first picture!


----------



## OverK1LL

Thanks!! Just some quick shots with my smartphone. Going to break out the DSLR in a few days to start snapping a build log.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The cat's finally out of the bag:


Niiiiice, grats Akira!


----------



## SteezyTN

I'm very glad I made the decision to go with EK waterblocks for my 6GB 780's.

Here are my temps with the EVGA ACX cooler


And here are my temps with the EK-FC780 GTX Ti (All black- Acetal) Waterblocks.I even have a higher overclock.


Never again will I go back to air on my GPU(s) or a CPU! EVER!!! I will definatlely stay with EK for waterblocks (even though I have an XSPC Kit lol)


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverK1LL*
> 
> First time build using EK parts. The build quality is quite impressive.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have the 780's waterblock (Acetal) and I love it!!!


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have the 780's waterblock (Acetal) and I love it!!!


I have x2 ek fc780 gtx ti acetal waterblocks and ek fc780 back plates. I love mine to


----------



## orndorf77

Is the ek zmt black tubing really plasticizer free ? I am currently using clear tygon e-1000 plasticizer free tubing. I have been looking all over the internet for black plasticizer free tubing and on frozencpu.com under product discription of the ek zmt black tubing it says plasticizer free. I thought only clear tubing was plasticizer free . is the ek zmt black tubing really plasticizer free ?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> Is the ek zmt black tubing really plasticizer free ? I am currently using clear tygon e-1000 plasticizer free tubing. I have been looking all over the internet for black plasticizer free tubing and on frozencpu.com under product discription of the ek zmt black tubing it says plasticizer free. I thought only clear tubing was plasticizer free . is the ek zmt black tubing really plasticizer free ?


Yes it is.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes it is.


awesome I'm going to order 8 feet of it . the last time I use black tubing it was the primochill LRT and I flushed my loop two week later to change a fitting and there was grey gunk on the inside walls of the tubing that's why for now on I will only use plasticizer free


----------



## gdubc

It's more of a rubber type hose like what some of the aio coolers use. I Loke it quit a bit.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverK1LL*
> 
> Thanks!! Just some quick shots with my smartphone. Going to break out the DSLR in a few days to start snapping a build log.


That's pretty damn sexy for a smartphone camera


----------



## Squeaks5635

Hello everyone,

I have spent the last week or so reading this entire thread, all 714 pages, because I am about to start my first water cooling build. I have picked mainly all EK parts except for the mosfet block because they don't make one for my motherboard.

I have a gigabyte X79 ud3

my first question is about the ram blocks, since I have only two slots on each side I could go with the Monarch X2, but does anyone see a problem with getting the Monarch X4 blocks instead. I was just thinking that maybe in the next year or so when i upgrade my motherboard to a larger one (now that I have room in my soon to be shipped S8) I would not have to get new blocks.

Also the X4 comes in the clear plexi top so I would save money by not having to buy the separate top for the X2.

Thanks in advance for the responses, This will most likely be the first of many questions I have during this build.

upgrading from a corsair H80 and a gpu on air in an Antec Sonata III case

parts I got so far

1x PE 360 rad
Aquaero 6xt
4x corsair pwm sp120 qe fans
1x corsair af140 qe fan
Case ordered 2.5 weeks ago and has not shipped yet









Awaiting order

2 x PE 360 rad
6x corsair pwm sp120 qe fans
2x corsair af120 fans
supremacy evo clear nickel
2x monarch blocks (the 2 or the 4 haven't decided yet)
EK-SBAY Dual DDC 3.2 PWM Serial (incl. 2x pump))
2x ddc heatsinks
Alphacool HF 14 Smart Motion Cooling Plate Gigabyte X79 UD3 Mosfet - Black (11127) *because EK didnt make one








2x ek gpu blocks depending on whats out when im ready to buy (currently have a HD 7970)


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I have spent the last week or so reading this entire thread, all 714 pages, because I am about to start my first water cooling build. I have picked mainly all EK parts except for the mosfet block because they don't make one for my motherboard.
> 
> I have a gigabyte X79 ud3
> 
> my first question is about the ram blocks, since I have only two slots on each side I could go with the Monarch X2, but *does anyone see a problem with getting the Monarch X4 blocks instead*. I was just thinking that maybe in the next year or so when i upgrade my motherboard to a larger one (now that I have room in my soon to be shipped S8) I would not have to get new blocks.
> 
> Also the X4 comes in the clear plexi top so I would save money by not having to buy the separate top for the X2.
> 
> Thanks in advance for the responses, This will most likely be the first of many questions I have during this build.
> 
> upgrading from a corsair H80 and a gpu on air in an Antec Sonata III case
> 
> parts I got so far
> 
> 1x PE 360 rad
> Aquaero 6xt
> 4x corsair pwm sp120 qe fans
> 1x corsair af140 qe fan
> Case ordered 2.5 weeks ago and has not shipped yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awaiting order
> 
> 2 x PE 360 rad
> 6x corsair pwm sp120 qe fans
> 2x corsair af120 fans
> supremacy evo clear nickel
> 2x monarch blocks (the 2 or the 4 haven't decided yet)
> EK-SBAY Dual DDC 3.2 PWM Serial (incl. 2x pump))
> 2x ddc heatsinks
> Alphacool HF 14 Smart Motion Cooling Plate Gigabyte X79 UD3 Mosfet - Black (11127) *because EK didnt make one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2x ek gpu blocks depending on whats out when im ready to buy (currently have a HD 7970)


I see no reason why it wouldn't work. It will just overhang a few mm off the RAM on each side. Unless it will interfere with other components on your MB, like the CPU block, mosfet block or the 24pin. Might need to offset it a bit.
The Monarch blocks are actually sitting a bit higher than the CPU and mosfet blocks so I don't see this as an issue either.


----------



## erase

Which EK rads are better the older thick XT or the newer thin PE models?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I have x2 ek fc780 gtx ti acetal waterblocks and ek fc780 back plates. I love mine to


Yeah, those are the one I have. I also have the backplates. I'm glad I decided to get the backplates, because I had massive leak from the terminal, and the backplate shed the water off a little


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Niiiiice, grats Akira!


Thanks!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverK1LL*
> 
> First time build using EK parts. The build quality is quite impressive.


I love that shot!!!


----------



## SuprUsrStan

My EK Asus V Extreme CSQ Block finally came in! I was able to retain the original IO cover too









The Dominator Platinums and light bar go perfectly with he EK Supremacy Full Nickel CPU block. I went with an acetal motherboard block because the GPUs are also nickel acetal so that it'd be a contrast to the shiny CPU block, Dom Plats, and black sparkle fittings.

Haven't decided if I want to use a dye on the coolant. I bought some Mayhems Deep Red but I kind of like the distilled water chrome look. The fountain effect in the reservoir is pretty cool with distilled water too.







BTW
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ENTERPRISE*
> 
> Hello all !
> 
> Please welcome akira749
> as a new REP from EK Waterblocks


Grats. Does this mean we might be seeing a new build from you?









Oh that's right, you just finished a build


----------



## HITTI

Gorgeous. Amazing looking.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> My EK Asus V Extreme CSQ Block finally came in! I was able to retain the original IO cover too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Dominator Platinums and light bar go perfectly with he EK Supremacy Full Nickel CPU block. I went with an acetal motherboard block because the GPUs are also nickel acetal so that it'd be a contrast to the shiny CPU block, Dom Plats, and black sparkle fittings.
> 
> Haven't decided if I want to use a dye on the coolant. I bought some Mayhems Deep Red but I kind of like the distilled water chrome look. The fountain effect in the reservoir is pretty cool with distilled water too.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW
> Grats. Does this mean we might be seeing a new build from you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh that's right, you just finished a build


Very good looking build!!!

Did you have to butcher something to be able to keep the IO cover or it was fairly simple?

Seeing the result with only clear water I would stick with this over red dye. It look so gorgeous!

And thanks for the grats









And yes there's a new build in the air (X99 build) but it was already in the air before the new job


----------



## niklot1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverK1LL*
> 
> First time build using EK parts. The build quality is quite impressive.


Fantastically chosen approach, great work with the camera


----------



## tistou77

Hello

The Supremacy EVO is better than Supremacy or it's the same ( for LGA2011-3 ) ?

Thanks


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Very good looking build!!!
> 
> Did you have to butcher something to be able to keep the IO cover or it was fairly simple?
> 
> Seeing the result with only clear water I would stick with this over red dye. It look so gorgeous!
> 
> And thanks for the grats
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes there's a new build in the air (X99 build) but it was already in the air before the new job


The IO disassembly of the IO cover was actually really simple. It started out with me yanking and prying at it to no avail. Then I gave it a quick twist with tangential force and that broke the glue free. After the initial break, it just slid out. Pretty simple if you know how to apply the force. I did it with my bare hands.

I think I'm going to stick with distilled water too. I've had issues with Mayhems Pastel changing color on me but it was cool while it lasted. Considering how much of a pain cleaning out a pastel / dyed loop is, distilled probably the way to go. The fountain effect of the reservoir makes the clear water more interesting









That said, this is what it looked like with pastel back when i was on SNB-E


----------



## VSG

Heatgun might make that easier too, knowing it's just glue in there.


----------



## sinnedone

Quick question for those in the knows about EK coolants.









Is THIS EK coolant uv blue the ones from mayhems or their own coolant?


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick question for those in the knows about EK coolants.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is THIS EK coolant uv blue the ones from mayhems or their own coolant?


Your link doesn't work, but looking at EK's site it seems only the pastel coolants are made by Mayhems. I could be wrong though.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick question for those in the knows about EK coolants.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is THIS EK coolant uv blue the ones from mayhems or their own coolant?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Your link doesn't work, but looking at EK's site it seems only the pastel coolants are made by Mayhems. I could be wrong though.


Like Tunz said, it's only the pastel line that's done in partnership with Mayhems. The non-pastel are the traditionnal Red, UV Blue, UV Lime and Clear that EK already had.


----------



## Squeaks5635

Still waiting on my case and more parts so I decided to start painting.

Too much orange?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Your link doesn't work, but looking at EK's site it seems only the pastel coolants are made by Mayhems. I could be wrong though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Like Tunz said, it's only the pastel line that's done in partnership with Mayhems. The non-pastel are the traditionnal Red, UV Blue, UV Lime and Clear that EK already had.


Sorry about the broken link, its fixed now.

Thank you both for the quick responses.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Still waiting on my case and more parts so I decided to start painting.
> 
> Too much orange?


Not even, I'm loving it. I think I need to find a way to get my PE rads painted Gunmetal Grey.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Here's some shots of my completed Xenomorph build with amazing EK stuff


who're u a hardware rep for? When'd that happen?


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

http://www.overclock.net/t/1449035/overclocks-hardware-representative-initiative/80_10#post_23113109


----------



## bustacap22

Whats up EK Club. I have a quick question and hoping someone here can confirm. I currently have Asus RIVE w/ dual 7970 w/ EK FC7970 CSQ blocks. Using EK Triple Parallel CSQ Bridge. Question......I am planning on getting dual 290x with EK blocks. Can anyone confirm if I am able to use the same triple parallel bridge that I am currently using????? If not, can someone direct me to the correct bridge I would need for my Asus RIVE. Thanks.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Still waiting on my case and more parts so I decided to start painting.
> 
> Too much orange?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those are insanely sexy! Definitely not too much orange in my eyes. Is there a build log for the rig those are going into?


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Those are insanely sexy! Definitely not too much orange in my eyes. Is there a build log for the rig those are going into?


Thanks,

No build log yet, maybe once I get my case I will start one.

On another note.

I really think I need to use *this* because of space but I cant find any reviews, videos, or even a picture of it in use.

Does anyone have any constructive input about this product, not the usual complaining about this type of combo and asking why I don't just go with a tube.

Thanks,

JT


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> who're u a hardware rep for? When'd that happen?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1449035/overclocks-hardware-representative-initiative/80_10#post_23113109


"Official" date is november 1st









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bustacap22*
> 
> Whats up EK Club. I have a quick question and hoping someone here can confirm. I currently have Asus RIVE w/ dual 7970 w/ EK FC7970 CSQ blocks. Using EK Triple Parallel CSQ Bridge. Question......I am planning on getting dual 290x with EK blocks. Can anyone confirm if I am able to use the same triple parallel bridge that I am currently using????? If not, can someone direct me to the correct bridge I would need for my Asus RIVE. Thanks.


Yes it will work but make sure to buy the "Original CSQ" blocks for your 290x


----------



## ForTheHorde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Still waiting on my case and more parts so I decided to start painting.
> 
> Too much orange?


Looks great


----------



## Pheozero

@Squeaks5635What case are you waiting for?


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> @Squeaks5635What case are you waiting for?


1 x Mercury S8
(Case Color: Black 10-15 business days for processing, Form Factor: ATX, Top Chassis Mount: Drop-in 120.3 x 2 mount ($20.00), Top Cover: Ventilated , Left Door: Standard Window with Ventilation (adds $15.00), Right Door : Standard Window (adds $10.00), Front Cover: Window (This option will delete the 120.2 mount..., Flex-Bay Configuration: Ventilated Bay Covers ($10.00), Power and Reset Switch: Standard Power/Reset Switches with Sleeved Cables , I/O Panel: USB 3.0/HD Audio ($25.00), Rear Fan Mount: 120mm/140mm Hex-Mesh, Add a Second HDD cage? No thanks , Add Tech Station Conversion Kit? No thanks, Add the S8 120.3 side mount? Yes ($19.00))


----------



## Malpractis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> 1 x Mercury S8


Man you'll love it







I got mine not long ago, amazing case. Got to be creative with the cable management though.

OT
Got a EK Dual D5 Acetal pump top, when I was putting it together I think I over tightened one of the screws, as a heard a little creak (I immediately stopped and loosened it a bit). I can't see any cracks or anything. Think it'll be okay?
I'll be thoroughly leak testing don't worry









Also can't wait for the Giga G1 970 blocks


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Still waiting on my case and more parts so I decided to start painting.
> 
> Too much orange?


iCame

This is just perfect !


----------



## Hasty

That orange rad is absolutely stunning!


----------



## Recr3ational

This might be a stupid idea/question but I was thinking about having 2 tube reservoirs in one loop. Will that even work? Just purely for aesthetic reasons. Also will my d5 (with EK top) handle two res + cpu block + 2 gpu blocks + 2 rads?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> This might be a stupid idea/question but I was thinking about having 2 tube reservoirs in one loop. Will that even work? Just purely for aesthetic reasons. Also will my d5 (with EK top) handle two res + cpu block + 2 gpu blocks + 2 rads?


Will work and the pump can handle it.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Will work and the pump can handle it.


Perfect. Thank you. +Rep


----------



## lowfat

Oh noes. No CSQ GTX980 Strix blocks it seems. Going to have to break my CSQ theme.


----------



## ccRicers

I just wish now there was a FC terminal compatible with Thermosphere with two ports on the side, instead of two on the top and bottom. It would help me make cleaner and easier tubing routes between components, since I have rigid tubing to bend.


----------



## weinstein888

Friendly invitation to vote for a good cause (Waterblocks for ASUS X99-E WS): http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/waterblocks-for-asus039s-x99-e-ws-motherboard/

Hit plus to vote through Facebook if you don't have a ThinkCell account


----------



## ccRicers

Just saw the new 970 waterblock on the FB page. It looks awesome.



I can hope that a short backplate would follow, right?


----------



## King4x4

The new 970 blocks are awesome.... You can make them single slot with the right mods too!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Just saw the new 970 waterblock on the FB page. It looks awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> I can hope that a short backplate would follow, right?


out already
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc970-gtx-backplate-black.html
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc970-gtx-backplate-nickel.html


----------



## Yey09

I have a Asus GTX 770 DC2OC on an EK block, Core temp is 47c and VRM temps reach 59c @ full load on OC.. is that normal on water cooling?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> I have a Asus GTX 770 DC2OC on an EK block, Core temp is 47c and VRM temps reach 59c @ full load on OC.. is that normal on water cooling?


I think 47'C is alright and normal. What voltage and OC do you have on it if you have an overclock at all?

I got 59'C with my old 680 DCII under an EK block with about 1.45v and 1500MHz in 3dmark11.


----------



## orndorf77

I should have asked this a long time ago . after you finish filling your loop should you fill the reservoir to the top or should you leave some room in there ?


----------



## Yey09

1212v at 1320mhz core and 2000mhz ram, I rev the rad fans a little (+200rpm) temps went down to 44c core and 56c vrm.


----------



## akira749

For those who want to know what GTX970 is compatible with the new 970 Block









Compatibility list for EK-FC970 GTX


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> For those who want to know what GTX970 is compatible with the new 970 Block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compatibility list for EK-FC970 GTX


What is the EK-FC970 GTX TF5 waterblock supposed to look like? (Looked under the MSI Gaming GTX970)


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I should have asked this a long time ago . after you finish filling your loop should you fill the reservoir to the top or should you leave some room in there ?


The water level will drop in the first month. There is usually a small amount of air left in the loop. So I would take it to close to the top. Then when it drops a little refill as necessary.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> "Official" date is november 1st
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it will work but make sure to buy the "Original CSQ" blocks for your 290x


Grats, man.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I think 47'C is alright and normal. What voltage and OC do you have on it if you have an overclock at all?
> 
> I got 59'C with my old 680 DCII under an EK block with about 1.45v and 1500MHz in 3dmark11.


how'd u get voltage so high?


----------



## Jakewat

Soooo, who else has seen the 'Vulture' case? looking like a nice start from EK for breaking into the case market.


----------



## Squeaks5635

I saw it. I like the curved window but it seems like it needs more options for radiators. But i guess you dont really need that much when you're using a micro board.


----------



## emsj86

I like ek and maybe it's different in person but it looks cheap. I would like to see at least a atx case specially since ek is all about that water cooling .... No air cool


----------



## ccRicers

The case is all 1/8" aluminum so I imagine that it would feel pretty well built and solid. I have a Jonsbo U2 and while it's very minimal and not much to look at in pictures, it definitely looks classy in person.


----------



## lowfat

I think it is one fine looking case. Just personally think ITX is too small.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think it is one fine looking case. Just personally think ITX is too small.


I actually think this case is a bit on the large side for ITX. The front is tall enough to accommodate a 360 rad.


----------



## derickwm

For setups like the Impact I think a 360 is a minimum these days honestly. CPUs run hotter than they use to and combined with a dual GPU card in there and you'll probably wish you had more rad space.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Soooo, who else has seen the 'Vulture' case? looking like a nice start from EK for breaking into the case market.


link? pic? google is turning up nothing.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Soooo, who else has seen the 'Vulture' case? looking like a nice start from EK for breaking into the case market.
> 
> 
> 
> link? pic? google is turning up nothing.
Click to expand...

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/11/11/exclusive-ek-water-blocks-new-itx-case/


----------



## King4x4

Time to scavange unneeded stuff from hydra2 to put into that beauty!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> For setups like the Impact I think a 360 is a minimum these days honestly. CPUs run hotter than they use to and combined with a dual GPU card in there and you'll probably wish you had more rad space.


360 is always the minimum for a CPU/GPU setup.
Its not that modern CPU's produce more heat rather the die density makes it harder to remove the heat produced.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 360 is always the minimum for a CPU/GPU setup.
> Its not that modern CPU's produce more heat rather the die density makes it harder to remove the heat produced.


I went with XSPC radiators (I know, shoot me







) and I have a 360 and 240. The water temps hit about 40c at max load (70c 4770k, and less than 50c on my 780's). I may pick up another radiator. Temps seem okay, but I prefer cooler.

I DO LOVE MY EK-FC780 blocks for my 6GB 780's though. Maybe next time ill pick up an EK radiator.


----------



## lowfat

It may be the worst performing block but damn I love being able to see so much nickel.


----------



## stren

Finally got done with Project Thief - couple of pics - I don't want to spam so the rest can be found in the thread here


----------



## lowfat

Insanity.


----------



## sinnedone

Looking good Stren.









Anyone ask you what you were doing when you wheeled that monster outside?


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looking good Stren.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone ask you what you were doing when you wheeled that monster outside?


haha I got a lot of weird looks from drivers on the street. And some of the dusk shots were really really dark in actuality, so there was a lady walking her dog who got freaked out. And the little yappy dog really wanted to bite me. No luck though, he was a console peasant at heart


----------



## chas1723

I am going to be putting a supremacy EVO on a delidded 3770k. I will be using Geild extreme for TIM. Any tips for max performance would be greatly appreciated since this is my first foray into water cooling.


----------



## Jakusonfire

EK Supremacy Nickel 2+ years on, using Distilled water and Liquid Utopia. Block just opened with no cleaning.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Soooo, who else has seen the 'Vulture' case? looking like a nice start from EK for breaking into the case market.
> 
> 
> 
> link? pic? google is turning up nothing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/11/11/exclusive-ek-water-blocks-new-itx-case/
Click to expand...

Thanks! and Wow!

Really like that curved window and that it can be used laying down as well. Hopefully we can see these features in a ATX case.


----------



## akira749

New EK release!!!

It's so beautiful that I think I will buy a 970 4G Gaming just to put this block on it









EK releases MSI® GTX 970 Gaming 4G Full-Cover water block


----------



## Malpractis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> New EK release!!!
> EK releases MSI® GTX 970 Gaming 4G Full-Cover water block


Nice now just need the G1 blocks









Also quick question, the EK Dual X-Top comes with these little rubber spacers (bottom pic with the screws) for the mounting plate, I'm wondering if anyone has any idea where I might be able to get longer ones? The Aquacomputer D5's I'm using in it are about 3mm too long (with cables) for the current spacers?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> New EK release!!!
> 
> It's so beautiful that I think I will buy a 970 4G Gaming just to put this block on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK releases MSI® GTX 970 Gaming 4G Full-Cover water block


Who designed this block? Very nice.


----------



## Aznlotus161

It's happening!

The EK-FC970 GTX TF5 - Acetal+Nickel looks beautiful as always.

Dig the subtle MSI logo as well.

and beautiful build *@Stren* jesus









Kind of makes me wish I bought the MSI 970 instead of Gigabyte...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Who designed this block? Very nice.


Probably Tiborr as always


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> Nice now just need the G1 blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also quick question, the EK Dual X-Top comes with these little rubber spacers (bottom pic with the screws) for the mounting plate, I'm wondering if anyone has any idea where I might be able to get longer ones? The Aquacomputer D5's I'm using in it are about 3mm too long (with cables) for the current spacers?


I just used a different mounting plate. But if you just get some ordinary metal m4 standoff and use them underneath the standard ones it will provide some more height.
Or frozen CPU will sell you four more of the same ones and you can double up on rubber.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18758/scr-699/EK_Replacement_Pump_Top_Anti-Vibration_Mount_Screw_-_M4_Thread_Blailnik_M4_-_Pump_Top_Mount_antivibration_dumper.html?tl=g57c585s1881


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> New EK release!!!
> 
> It's so beautiful that I think I will buy a 970 4G Gaming just to put this block on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK releases MSI® GTX 970 Gaming 4G Full-Cover water block


Very shiny! Also, no copper block this time around? Also, I'd imagine if the block covered the entire card, it would probably make the block much more expensive.


----------



## Malpractis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I just used a different mounting plate. But if you just get some ordinary metal m4 standoff and use them underneath the standard ones it will provide some more height.


Good idea,







mate


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Very shiny! Also, no copper block this time around? Also, I'd imagine if the block covered the entire card, it would probably make the block much more expensive.


No copper for this block are listed so I would be surprised to see one appear.

And yes you're right about the fact that having an entire block of plexi or acetal covering the card would increase the price. Especially plexi!!


----------



## derickwm

For non-reference GPU blocks, it's safe to assume that there won't be copper variations.


----------



## Asus11

does anyone know what EK block I can use on this gtx 970?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> does anyone know what EK block I can use on this gtx 970?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What's the specific model number of this card?


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> What's the specific model number of this card?


04G-P4-0972-KR


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> 04G-P4-0972-KR


A block is coming soon for this one.


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> A block is coming soon for this one.


any info on approx how long the wait is?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> any info on approx how long the wait is?


Sorry no


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> any info on approx how long the wait is?


The wait could be as long as Valve time.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> And yes you're right about the fact that having an entire block of plexi or acetal covering the card would increase the price. Especially plexi!!


You happen to know how much? Aesthetically speaking it might be worth the money.


----------



## derickwm

We did it with the Titan SE block and it just wasn't visually appealing...


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We did it with the Titan SE block and it just wasn't visually appealing...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lets rack that up to difference of opinion







, that that to me looks tons better than the rectangle that doesn't meet the edges.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Lets rack that up to difference of opinion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , that that to me looks tons better than the rectangle that doesn't meet the edges.


I agree 100%. I've never liked the looks of blocks that don't cover the full length of the board.









@derickwm
Would you make a backplate that doesn't run the full length?
No? Didn't think so...because it would look ridiculous...just like those short waterblocks.


----------



## iBored

Every considered having a tinted acrylic?


----------



## chas1723

I am planning on running an EVO on a 3770K. I have my processor delidded and plan on running it naked. Which jet plate would you recommend and what orientation would you use on the block?


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We did it with the Titan SE block and it just wasn't visually appealing...


best GK110 cover made









yes I have 2 in the exact same nickel


----------



## strojek

Hi, i recently built my first waterloop, it has been running everything fine for 3 weeks now. I am using EK DBAY D5 and few days after first filling my loop i noticed that coolant had stuck between seal of front bay cover. I attached pics. Coolant is EK Pastel White (Mayhems). Should i be worried or this is normal thing?


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strojek*
> 
> Hi, i recently built my first waterloop, it has been running everything fine for 3 weeks now. I am using EK DBAY D5 and few days after first filling my loop i noticed that coolant had stuck between seal of front bay cover. I attached pics. Coolant is EK Pastel White (Mayhems). Should i be worried or this is normal thing?


I think it should be fine as long as its not leaking. Keep a close eye on it and if it starts to go past the O-ring I would be worried.

Other than that how do you like the EK DBAY D5, any comments on the noise? did you have any vortex issues? Is this a PWM combo and if so what speed do you normally run it at?

Thanks,

JT


----------



## bigporl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We did it with the Titan SE block and it just wasn't visually appealing...


That looks so much better than the CSQ i have.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> New EK release!!!
> 
> It's so beautiful that I think I will buy a 970 4G Gaming just to put this block on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK releases MSI® GTX 970 Gaming 4G Full-Cover water block


If the MSI ones are that sexy, I totally can't wait to how the Gigabyte G1 blocks turn out! Also, you aren't the only one who's tempted to buy a card just to mount the block on! ^_^


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> If the MSI ones are that sexy, I totally can't wait to how the Gigabyte G1 blocks turn out! Also, you aren't the only one who's tempted to buy a card just to mount the block on! ^_^


Agreed


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> That looks so much better than the CSQ i have.


Not visually appealing my ass.
from the same people who think circles are?








actually i wish all the acrylic cards were more like that(without that nickel cover on front)

also why is there randomly a bunch of excess acrylic on the inlets and outlets? I know its not compressible on a macroscale but its still resistance


----------



## Jakusonfire

Full length acrylic blocks like the titan se seem like a good idea, kindof like a full acrylic case seems like a good idea. Then you see them in real life and it's clear that it just looks silly and they thankfully slip out of fashion rapidly.

There aren't any blocks with nickel covers but there are ones that have a stainless steel front plate that is necessary for the design of the pcb. It would be nice if EK could compell pcb design to fit block aesthetics buy unfortunately they can't.

The extra acrylic on inlets/ outlets is a mystery, there isn't any on my blocks.

And, yes its true that a backplate that wasn't full cover would look silly , It wouldn't be as bad as a transparent one.


----------



## bigporl

Would be also nice to know why they ditched the four way inlet and outlet ports on the blocks for those build your own ones.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Full length acrylic blocks like the titan se seem like a good idea, kindle like a full acrylic case seems like a good idea. Then you see them in real life and it's clear that it just looks silly and they thankfully slip out of fashion rapidly.


I can see your point on that as well.
Maybe if the smaller acrylic blocks had a radius on the corners instead of the straight 90 it might be more visually appealing.

Hmm Tell EKWB I said to radius the acrylic blocks edges and to PM me for the mailing address of where to mail the check.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Full length acrylic blocks like the titan se seem like a good idea, kindof like a full acrylic case seems like a good idea. Then you see them in real life and it's clear that it just looks silly and they thankfully slip out of fashion rapidly.
> 
> There aren't any blocks with nickel covers but there are ones that have a stainless steel front plate that is necessary for the design of the pcb. It would be nice if EK could compell pcb design to fit block aesthetics buy unfortunately they can't.
> 
> The extra acrylic on inlets/ outlets is a mystery, there isn't any on my blocks.
> 
> And, yes its true that a backplate that wasn't full cover would look silly , It wouldn't be as bad as a transparent one.


yeah i meant SS
in my classy cards. I just think itd look better as acrylic as well.. like with the new 970 blocks
the excess is inside the block

just it kind of pinches after the 3-4mm from the top of the actual block

and I don't know how much flow is available for the VRM section with that channel being so unobstructed


----------



## Cosworth

I suppose I should join lol I have an EK Supremacy Copper Plexi block and a EK-FC580 GTX DirectGPU Copper Acetal block firrted to my machine with EK tube fittings which are coming up on their second year of use


----------



## wirk

I have Asus X99-E WS motherboard and the chipset cooler gets quite hot, no wonder since it also has two PLX chips to cool. Since I am preparing for water cooling Xeon processor, I started wondering if the EK-FB KIT ASUS R5E chipset block would fit to the X99-E WS ? Shape of the block would roughly fit though I can not evaluate precisely if the corner cut-out near the RAM slots is suffiecienlyt big for two fan connectors which are there. More critically, my motherboard is installed and I can not see how the screws underneath are positioned. Or perhaps the chipset cooler for X99-E WS is coming??


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wirk*
> 
> I have Asus X99-E WS motherboard and the chipset cooler gets quite hot, no wonder since it also has two PLX chips to cool. Since I am preparing for water cooling Xeon processor, I started wondering if the EK-FB KIT ASUS R5E chipset block would fit to the X99-E WS ? Shape of the block would roughly fit though I can not evaluate precisely if the corner cut-out near the RAM slots is suffiecienlyt big for two fan connectors which are there. More critically, my motherboard is installed and I can not see how the screws underneath are positioned. Or perhaps the chipset cooler for X99-E WS is coming??


Sorry nothing is in the work for this motherboard. I can't confirm a possible fitment of the R5E block either.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We did it with the Titan SE block and it just wasn't visually appealing...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


To be honest, this is the most beautiful GPU waterblock I've seen so far. In fact, I was planning on getting a Titan instead of a 780Ti for a while, just so I could get that block.

Also, nice to see a mosfet waterblock coming for the X99S SLI PLUS. Would love to include that once I get this rig on water. But please, consider a chipset waterblock as well. Wouldn't want to leave that out of the loop. Or find an already existing block that might fit with it.


----------



## wirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wirk*
> 
> I have Asus X99-E WS motherboard and the chipset cooler gets quite hot, no wonder since it also has two PLX chips to cool. Since I am preparing for water cooling Xeon processor, I started wondering if the EK-FB KIT ASUS R5E chipset block would fit to the X99-E WS ? Shape of the block would roughly fit though I can not evaluate precisely if the corner cut-out near the RAM slots is suffiecienlyt big for two fan connectors which are there. More critically, my motherboard is installed and I can not see how the screws underneath are positioned. Or perhaps the chipset cooler for X99-E WS is coming??


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Sorry nothing is in the work for this motherboard. I can't confirm a possible fitment of the R5E block either.


OK, I can check it by myself when making final rebuild of my system. But where can one find detailed technical drawing of the R5E block with external dimensions and for the screws?


----------



## iBored

Did EK make blocks for the quadro cards? k4000?
I get to take one home from office but it runs kinda hot since I don't turn on my a/c at home.
And its kinda uglyyy


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Did EK make blocks for the quadro cards? k4000?
> I get to take one home from office but it runs kinda hot since I don't turn on my a/c at home.
> And its kinda uglyyy


EK didn't make any blocks for the K4000 sorry.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

which K-series did they make blocks for? I remember seeing one. was it the K5000?


----------



## derickwm




----------



## tatmMRKIV

Nice... And they are so sexy!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beat me to it


----------



## Asus11

will we see evga 970 blocks before christmas?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> will we see evga 970 blocks before christmas?


No exact date but it *could* be before christmas


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No exact date but it *could* be before christmas


thanks! really hope so, feel lame running on air.


----------



## strojek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> I think it should be fine as long as its not leaking. Keep a close eye on it and if it starts to go past the O-ring I would be worried.
> 
> Other than that how do you like the EK DBAY D5, any comments on the noise? did you have any vortex issues? Is this a PWM combo and if so what speed do you normally run it at?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> JT


I have manual d5 pump,keeping it on lvl2 ,no vortex issues, its not noise rather than vibrations at the begining,but after few weeks it gets better. Love how it fits and look in dual bay space in my corsair 780t.


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strojek*
> 
> I have manual d5 pump,keeping it on lvl2 ,no vortex issues, its not noise rather than vibrations at the begining,but after few weeks it gets better. Love how it fits and look in dual bay space in my corsair 780t.


Thanks for the response.

I am looking at the EK-SBAY Dual DDC 3.2 PWM Serial and I have not been able to find many people who have actually used the pump res combos.

I am especially concerned with this being a single bay reservoir and two pumps in series that it may have vortex issues above certain speeds. However the space savings is very appealing.

glad to know you are happy with yours.

anyone else familiar with the newer ek bay res pump combos feel free to chime in with your experiences


----------



## charliebrown

ok so we have a ek rep here so what do you think of this is this block still good i asked in the watercooling forum some yes some say trash it what do you think i should do


----------



## akira749

Is this rust or copper that we see emerging from the nickel plating?

What coolant did you used?


----------



## Jakusonfire

The block is still fine to use, only the way it looks has been affected. The way the discolouration has adhered to the stainless steel and acrylic as well as the block itself is not typical of what is seen with corrosion.

Lots of times after a good polish the block looks nearly good as new.


----------



## charliebrown

water coil n dye


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> water coil n dye


Ok and is this rust, flaking or discoloration in the block channels that we see in the picture?


----------



## charliebrown

i think its rust


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> i think its rust


If it's rust then I don't know if it's a good idea to use it again.


----------



## charliebrown

but i could be wrong if its nickel plated then what im seeing is copper then underneath


----------



## tatmMRKIV

WHAT COLOR DYE?
Cuz that acrylic staining on the top in or out is weird


----------



## charliebrown

red


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We did it with the Titan SE block and it just wasn't visually appealing...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Lets rack that up to difference of opinion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , that that to me looks tons better than the rectangle that doesn't meet the edges.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> I agree 100%. I've never liked the looks of blocks that don't cover the full length of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @derickwm
> Would you make a backplate that doesn't run the full length?
> No? Didn't think so...because it would look ridiculous...just like those short waterblocks.


To be honest, I certainly like the look of a waterblock that covers the entire card. Might make it a bit more expensive to cover it with more metal. However, what is currently available for the MSI Gaming 4G GTX970 still looks pretty good.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> red


so its probably just staining from your dye


----------



## charliebrown

i thought that to so just polish it real good ad im straight right


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> i thought that to so just polish it real good ad im straight right


You could also try a 50/50 of distilled water and vinegar solution to try to clean the block and the plexi.


----------



## charliebrown

OK but I thought vinegar was bad for nickel and won't the plexi start to crack from the vinegar


----------



## anamnesis

So can i join the club now?









In the work but almost full of EK goodness








Ek mosfet M6g nickel clear
Ek supremacy Evo nickel clear
Ek X3 res 250
Ek d5 pump top acetal

Now if we *could* see the block for the evga 970 before the end of the year that would be perfect to finish









Anamnesis


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> OK but I thought vinegar was bad for nickel and won't the plexi start to crack from the vinegar


Yes, that's what EK says: How to clean water blocks?

So according to EK no vinegar for nickel blocks nor plexi:

"When cleaning nickel plated copper it is forbidden to use any aggressive chemicals (neither vinegar) or rough materials as you may damage the plating and thus void the warranty"
"Acrylic will fail prematurely if subjected to even small amounts of alcohol, acetone or other agressive chemicals. Please do not use anything but warm, soapy water and a toothbrush to clean the acrylic (plexi) glass water block tops and reservoir tubes. Using agressive chemicals will surely void your warranty!"


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We did it with the Titan SE block and it just wasn't visually appealing...


But you can mod it.

Not an EK block but you get the idea....



That open clear space in the middle of the block lends itself to block shrouding very well.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> OK but I thought vinegar was bad for nickel and won't the plexi start to crack from the vinegar


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> Yes, that's what EK says: How to clean water blocks?
> 
> So according to EK no vinegar for nickel blocks nor plexi:
> 
> "When cleaning nickel plated copper it is forbidden to use any aggressive chemicals (neither vinegar) or rough materials as you may damage the plating and thus void the warranty"
> "Acrylic will fail prematurely if subjected to even small amounts of alcohol, acetone or other agressive chemicals. Please do not use anything but warm, soapy water and a toothbrush to clean the acrylic (plexi) glass water block tops and reservoir tubes. Using agressive chemicals will surely void your warranty!"


I know what EK says









I didn't mean that you let it rest or that you soak it in









My idea of this recipe was more of a solution that you wet a piece of cloth ans simply rub the stained piece. I don't even know if that would work to be honest.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Isopropyl shouldnt damage acrylic.


----------



## Mayhem

Isopropyl causes fissures in acrylic. Do not use it for cleaning plastics its not a good idea. We've learnt the hard way in the past with micro fractures appearing due to Isopropyl. Just a word of warning thats all. Btw it wasn't on a EKWB product but a res from another maker..


----------



## tatmMRKIV

well I got this tube made of either acrylic or they cal it POM but they say to ONLY use isopryl to clean it


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## B NEGATIVE

And....


----------



## Asus11

comon EK pull your finger out and release the 970 EVGA Blocks.. probably first time ive seen MSI get released before EVGA


----------



## lowfat

I hope the 980 Strix block comes this year. It is what is holding my build back.


----------



## Neo Zuko

A few quick questions that Google didn't answer for me. And I've been away from the forums for a while to boot.

1. The EK Hydro Copper 980 Card... Is this the same thing as the EK Classified 980? Or does the Classified 980 have some features Beyond the Hydro Cooper 980? It's a different PCB size between the two so it makes me wonder.

2. This new flow jet thing on the EK GTX 980 blocks... The same thing that is in EK's Supremacy CPU blocks... Is it not in the Hydro Copper 980? Which cards have it and which don't in the 900 series? Do the 970 blocks have this? MSI Gaming? EVGA Classified?

3. Is a full mobo mono block block coming to the Rampage V Extreme?

Thanks in advance for any help


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> A few quick questions that Google didn't answer for me. And I've been away from the forums for a while to boot.
> 
> 1. The EK Hydro Copper 980 Card... Is this the same thing as the EK Classified 980? Or does the Classified 980 have some features Beyond the Hydro Cooper 980? It's a different PCB size between the two so it makes me wonder.
> 
> 2. This new flow jet thing on the EK GTX 980 blocks... The same thing that is in EK's Supremacy CPU blocks... Is it not in the Hydro Copper 980? Which cards have it and which don't in the 900 series? Do the 970 blocks have this? MSI Gaming? EVGA Classified?
> 
> 3. Is a full mobo mono block block coming to the Rampage V Extreme?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help


The 980 Hydrocopper is a custom design, it is unlike any other EK block. It is a crossflow core design without the impingement aperture and uses its own port spacings. There is no 980 Classified block yet.
The Hydrocopper card is a reference PCB, the classified is of course, not.

Only some of the very latest blocks have the impingement core eg. 980, 970, R9 285 blocks. Its pretty easy to tell which models have it by looking at the acrylic versions in the webshop.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> A few quick questions that Google didn't answer for me. And I've been away from the forums for a while to boot.
> 
> 1. The EK Hydro Copper 980 Card... Is this the same thing as the EK Classified 980? Or does the Classified 980 have some features Beyond the Hydro Cooper 980? It's a different PCB size between the two so it makes me wonder.
> 
> 2. This new flow jet thing on the EK GTX 980 blocks... The same thing that is in EK's Supremacy CPU blocks... Is it not in the Hydro Copper 980? Which cards have it and which don't in the 900 series? Do the 970 blocks have this? MSI Gaming? EVGA Classified?
> 
> 3. Is a full mobo mono block block coming to the Rampage V Extreme?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help


1. The EVGA 980 HydroCopper and the 980 Classy are 2 different cards in terms of PCB and the Classy is way more overclockable then the HC. Also more power hungry (2 x 6pin PCIe VS 2 x 8pin PCIe). EK will produce a block for the 980 Classy (I have no ETA)

2. As for the central inlet split-flow cooling engine, I don't know if the HydroCopper have it or not. For the EK blocks that has it, for now every GTX 900 series have it except the blocks for the reference 970 and on the AMD side, only the R9 285 block have it. No it's not the same thing has the Supremacy EVO









3. Yes it's suppose too (I have no ETA)


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Pity there's no monoblock love for Gigabyte boards. That would be rather lovely to get one's paws on!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I'd rather see some love for asrock.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Thanks again guys. I need to pick out a 980 or 970 and that info will help.


----------



## pathfindercod

Someone mentioned on another forum the 989 classified blocks were due out by December. I hope so, I love my setup but am jonesing for 4 980 classified cards and a 5960x


----------



## natsu2014

Can I use d5 mod kit with alphacool pump? I don't see why not but better safe than sorry


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Can I use d5 mod kit with alphacool pump? I don't see why not but better safe than sorry


If it is a d5, then yes.


----------



## Jakewat

Polished EK supremacy CSQ block
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps5d5adcd0.jpg.html
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps25c8cd88.jpg.html


----------



## Ashihtaka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Polished EK supremacy CSQ block
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps5d5adcd0.jpg.html


Looks good! Put some coloured liquid in that and show us how it looks.


----------



## tistou77

I tried the Supremacy EVO (I2 and J3) with a 5930K, it is less efficient than the Supremacy (2, 3°C lost....)
I also changed the thermal paste, replaced the Phobya Hegrease Extreme (Gelid Extreme) by the Phobya Nanogrease Extreme

Maybe I still have air bubbles


----------



## bigporl

Right guys your expert help is need as its the pump im buying next. I have already got ek spremacy evo nickel cpu block ek gtx 780 csq full cover nickel and a bitspower 150ml tube res. I plan on getting 2 rads a slim 360 for the top which will fit with a little modding and a Phobya 200mm v2 at the front. i plan on getting a matching ek top with the pump to match the theme but which would be the best pump to get as i see there is a few variations of laing pumps. which is the quietest which would suit my needs etc. My case is a corsair 600T


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> Right guys your expert help is need as its the pump im buying next. I have already got ek spremacy evo nickel cpu block ek gtx 780 csq full cover nickel and a bitspower 150ml tube res. I plan on getting 2 rads a slim 360 for the top which will fit with a little modding and a Phobya 200mm v2 at the front. i plan on getting a matching ek top with the pump to match the theme but which would be the best pump to get as i see there is a few variations of laing pumps. which is the quietest which would suit my needs etc. My case is a corsair 600T


whats your budget?
if u got $ to burn I reccommend the Eseries pumps they are ridonculously powerful and amazingly quiet


----------



## bigporl

About £100 including the top.


----------



## Squeaks5635

What's up with this.

EK decided to switch the style and color of their screws right in between making my ram blocks











I would really like everything to be the same. You think EK will send me 12 screws that will fit and look the same? Should I contact them or Frozen?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> About £100 including the top.


This would serve you well









EK-XTOP D5 Vario - Plexi (incl. pump)


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> What's up with this.
> 
> EK decided to switch the style and color of their screws right in between making my ram blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would really like everything to be the same. You think EK will send me 12 screws that will fit and look the same? Should I contact them or Frozen?


The screws on the right are sooooo wrong! I would even think that they aren't EK screws with the stamping (10.9) on top









10.9 is the Alloy Steel class

I suggest to contact Frozen first and if it they can't give you a clear answer, just open a ticket on the EK website.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> Right guys your expert help is need as its the pump im buying next. I have already got ek spremacy evo nickel cpu block ek gtx 780 csq full cover nickel and a bitspower 150ml tube res. I plan on getting 2 rads a slim 360 for the top which will fit with a little modding and a Phobya 200mm v2 at the front. i plan on getting a matching ek top with the pump to match the theme but which would be the best pump to get as i see there is a few variations of laing pumps. which is the quietest which would suit my needs etc. My case is a corsair 600T


D5 all day long


----------



## emsj86

Ok so I have blue berry pastel in my build and it matches my corsair sp120 rings. I want to get a backplate for my ek gpu block and only one aviable is the blue and red. My question does anyone have a picture of the blue backplate and does it match the sp120 blue rings ?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Ok so I have blue berry pastel in my build and it matches my corsair sp120 rings. I want to get a backplate for my ek gpu block and only one aviable is the blue and red. My question does anyone have a picture of the blue backplate and does it match the sp120 blue rings ?


It's a blue dye added during the anodisation process: metallic looking not really pastel at all. It's more like Asus blue used on Z77 boards. But I think the hue is not far off. So they will 'go together' if not match perfectly.

Sorry not the most ideal picture to show the colours. Look at the blue strip on the PSU connectors. That is PlastiDip blue, which the same hue as the Corsair rings.



Here from Cyphon's rig you can compare the Asus blue with the Mayhems Blue Berry


----------



## sinnedone

I think that's a gigabyte board, the Asus heatsinks were a lighter shade of blue.

As far as the blue backplate matching the pastel fluid and corsair rings, I don't think so.


----------



## bigporl

I cant even find the eseries ill have to look harder. Think D5 is what im swaying towards although the ek ones that i want dont come with a top to match my other ek part (CSQ plexi) so id have to get one without a top an get the top separate. Is the vario the one to go with and if so do i get the pwm version?

Thank you all so far guys.


----------



## orndorf77

my case is a corsair air 540 and I am thinking about switching from flexible tubing to acrylic tubing in the front of my case where the motherboard is and continuing to use flexible tubing behind my motherboard and where the tubing is not visible . is this a good idea ? or will there be a problem down the road from using two types of tubing and two types of fittings on one loop ? the fittings I will be using for the flexible tubing is the koolance black fittings I have now and the fittings I will be using for the acrylic tubing will be red chrome


----------



## fakeblood

My new waterblocks for my Twenty Three build

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/blocks2_zpsedcd10b6.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/blocks_zpsd30589a5.jpg.html


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> my case is a corsair air 540 and I am thinking about switching from flexible tubing to acrylic tubing in the front of my case where the motherboard is and continuing to use flexible tubing behind my motherboard and where the tubing is not visible . is this a good idea ? or will there be a problem down the road from using two types of tubing and two types of fittings on one loop ? the fittings I will be using for the flexible tubing is the koolance black fittings I have now and the fittings I will be using for the acrylic tubing will be red chrome
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You won't have any issues by mixing types of tubing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> My new waterblocks for my Twenty Three build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/blocks2_zpsedcd10b6.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/blocks_zpsd30589a5.jpg.html


Awesome pattern fakeblood!!!


----------



## derickwm

Those look great man


----------



## iBored

New fans from EK!
http://www.ekwb.com/news/548/19/EK-announces-new-high-pressure-120mm-fan-EK-Vardar/
















very GT AP-15's if you ask me. Will they perform just as good?


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> New fans from EK!
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/548/19/EK-announces-new-high-pressure-120mm-fan-EK-Vardar/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very GT AP-15's if you ask me. Will they perform just as good?


Good ! I was looking at more silent fans to replace my SP120s. That will do !

Seems like easy to paint the blade as well. Good for modders.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Thank god! Been waiting for these to show for a year.

They can't come fast enough. They might be reminiscent of GT's but have fewer, and flatter blades. PWM function is fantastic, and multiple speeds even better.
Couldn't have asked for more besides a more attractive frame, and I'm not a fan of PWM ranges that start at 40 or 50%. My Eloops will run at 1% PWM and start to change at 10%

The PQ curve looks to have the same distinctive shape as the GT, but higher pressure at lower fan speeds.


----------



## King4x4

Just going over those fan curves gave me a hard-on









The 2200rpm version fits nicely into a coming build for a client.... 6 of these with push/pull on a single PE360 will cool two OCed 980s and 5820k.... Decisions Decisions....


----------



## kichimou

Opened a thread for the new fans :
http://www.overclock.net/t/1526843/does-ek-just-resurrect-that-good-old-gt-ap-15

EK rep tiborr (EK R&D) is answering some question.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kichimou*
> 
> EK rep tiborr (EK R&D) is answering some question.


Omg Tiborrr is back !


----------



## snef

why make good fan so ugly like GT or Noctua,


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> why make good fan so ugly like GT or Noctua,


'Cause R&D money spend into performance is better than spending it on looks. Otherwise you would get a single fan for $30+ that perform good and is looking good as well.

And aren't you a modder ? you can make them look good I'm sure of it


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> My new waterblocks for my Twenty Three build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/blocks2_zpsedcd10b6.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/blocks_zpsd30589a5.jpg.html


ZEBRA















Awersome!


----------



## Vintage

I think the black and white ones look pretty good actually. As long as their perform well at a reasonable cost that's okay with me.

The fact that they are sleeved is really nice too.


----------



## Nichismo

I am FINALLY finished!!
















can someone help me with the spoiler plz?


----------



## snef

finally done my update on Bloody Angel

just love the white EK block, they nned to do one for GTX980 HOF


----------



## dean_8486

Congrats, seriously one of the best builds I have ever seen. Stunning work


----------



## akira749

Beautiful again @snef

Unfortunately EK have no plans for the 900 series HOF


----------



## lowfat

Didn't want to wait for a full cover so I tried the Thermosphere on an Asus GTX980 Strix. I can't use the bottom port, which don't matter to me.

Spent about 5 hours polshing just the stainless midplate. What a nightmare to do.


----------



## Georgey123

Looks good lowfart







. The 980 Strix block should be out tomorrow. Didn't know that the thermosphere could fit on the Strix, it doesn't mention it on Ek's cooling config


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Looks good low*fart*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The 980 Strix block should be out tomorrow. Didn't know that the thermosphere could fit on the Strix, it doesn't mention it on Ek's cooling config


I almost died...


----------



## Georgey123

LOL








. My bad lowfat


----------



## iBored

@akira749 Do you know if EK will every make the pump tops for these sets LINK available by itself?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> @akira749 Do you know if EK will every make the pump tops for these sets LINK available by itself?


Many people have asked to have this top and the clear plexi one without the pump. I will ask


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Didn't want to wait for a full cover so I tried the Thermosphere on an Asus GTX980 Strix. I can't use the bottom port, which don't matter to me.
> 
> Spent about 5 hours polshing just the stainless midplate. What a nightmare to do.


Awesome job!

Maybe a little late for you but : EK releases ASUS® GTX 980 Strix Full-Cover water block


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> @akira749 Do you know if EK will every make the pump tops for these sets LINK available by itself?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> @akira749 Do you know if EK will every make the pump tops for these sets LINK available by itself?
> 
> 
> 
> Many people have asked to have this top and the clear plexi one without the pump. I will ask
Click to expand...

As I was thinking, there still no current plans for this but things might change about that in 2015.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> I am FINALLY finished!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can someone help me with the spoiler plz?


It looks gorgeous, but I must ask:
How do you live with:
-The liquid level in the reservoirs not being the same.
-The tubing being a different size.

I'd go completely insane if it was my rig


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> It looks gorgeous, but I must ask:
> How do you live with:
> -The liquid level in the reservoirs not being the same.
> -The tubing being a different size.
> 
> I'd go completely insane if it was my rig


lol, thanks.

Honestly the fluid levels are bugging me slightly, but moreso because the UV blue is a little too full for my tastes. I like the level to be clearly visible, but thats usually because im using Pastel colored coolants, and they are so vibrant and solid that the reservoir/tubing can almost seem to be colored rather than clear to some people, but since this blue is transparent it doesnt matter as much. I was really suprised how easily the loop filled and the air bled out, I wasnt very focused on the exact amount of water/concentrate I added and it got to its current ratio extremely fast. I havnt been able to add the last bit of concentrate, and im out of the Ice white pastel.

The tubing was intentional, id been wanting to use 16mm tubing for a while but aside from the area that im already using it for, there wasnt really another area of the loop where it was viable to use 16mm tubing. It may be distracting to some but I really love it


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Awesome job!
> 
> Maybe a little late for you but : EK releases ASUS® GTX 980 Strix Full-Cover water block


Don't know if anyone else has mentioned it, but down where they mention product SKU's it says EK-FC970. Guessing those are next, since Cooling Configurator is showing SKU's but no links for the store yet? ^_^

Those Acetal+Nickel blocks look absolutely GORGEOUS


----------



## tatmMRKIV

hurry up with the RVE monoblocks please! My board gets here monday and I start binning on the 9th


----------



## Domiro

Ordered two FC CSQ 290X blocks. When I ordered there was stock left, now it's gone. Fingers crossed!


----------



## fakeblood

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC02702_zpsd68f1b51.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC02717_zps826c1482.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC02711_zps7085f522.jpg.html


----------



## reset1101

Hi. I was thinking about getting EK Blood Red for my water cooling. Is there any advice against, like if it gunks or something, it or it works just fine?

Thanks a lot!


----------



## szeged

@EK

when designing the gtx 980 classified waterblock, please extend it to cover the end vrms for the memory. Dont repeat what you did with the 780/780ti. They might not get insanely hot at stock but...who buys a classified and waterblock to leave it at stock.


----------



## 4zp1r1na

So... anyone knows if there will be a waterblock for MSI´s X99s Sli Plus or X99S Mpower?
i´m looking to buy a motherboard, but i want one that has support for a Full Cover Block and so far Asus has only VRM Block aside the Rampage V that does not like me at all since i want to get out of the Red and Black theme.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> @EK
> 
> when designing the gtx 980 classified waterblock, please extend it to cover the end vrms for the memory. Dont repeat what you did with the 780/780ti. They might not get insanely hot at stock but...who buys a classified and waterblock to leave it at stock.


Who buys classified to run them on water.

Ln2masterrace.

_Post to *not* be taken seriously_


----------



## iBored

2 days to release! What a tease!


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> @EK
> 
> when designing the gtx 980 classified waterblock, please extend it to cover the end vrms for the memory. Dont repeat what you did with the 780/780ti. They might not get insanely hot at stock but...who buys a classified and waterblock to leave it at stock.


the 780/780ti is my all time favorite block, I love the partially covered designs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> 2 days to release! What a tease!


Man EK is really on top of their game. I cant believe how many new blocks theyve released recently. Kinda makes me wish I would have waited, I really like the new MSI 970 blocks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4zp1r1na*
> 
> So... anyone knows if there will be a waterblock for MSI´s X99s Sli Plus or X99S Mpower?
> i´m looking to buy a motherboard, but i want one that has support for a Full Cover Block and so far Asus has only VRM Block aside the Rampage V that does not like me at all since i want to get out of the Red and Black theme.


lol I doubt it, honestly its already extremely considerate of them to have a VRM block for said boards already in my opinion. Honestly now that ive got my 4 block motherboard config, I almost feel like I like this particular config more! its great because I was really tempted to buy the Rampage V despite already having my X99 deluxe soley because of the full board kit, it was either that or buy a Koolance universal VRM. So glad it didnt turn out that way.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> the 780/780ti is my all time favorite block, I love the partially covered designs.


I think That's not what he is talking about. hes saying, it think, that the metal contact for the gddr5's cooling is only partial.
they milled off too much metal so the piece only covers most of the gddr5 modules in stead of their entirety
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Who buys classified to run them on water.
> 
> Ln2masterrace.
> 
> _Post to *not* be taken seriously_


to dial them in, feel them up a bit. binning

watercooling doesn't void the warranty but 90% sure LN2 does
so why risk freezing a crap card?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I think That's not what he is talking about. hes saying, it think, that the metal contact for the gddr5's cooling is only partial.
> they milled off too much metal so the piece only covers most of the gddr5 modules in stead of their entirety
> to dial them in, feel them up a bit. binning
> 
> watercooling doesn't void the warranty but 90% sure LN2 does
> so why risk freezing a crap card?


This is what he meant most likely as this gets a little warm:


----------



## tatmMRKIV

OIC I was thinking that was possibly the intent but I read it weird...

they don't go that far on alot of cards though. my gtx 680 has the same amount stickin out

my biggest worry on my 780ti classy is that the backplate tap for the 780classy pushes up against the pcie power input


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> This is what he meant most likely as this gets a little warm:


this exactly.

people had to ghetto rig cooling onto their cards because for some reason ek decided oh they dont get too hot, when in reality they do.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

what kind of ghetto rigging? like a passive heatsink or active cooling?


----------



## szeged

both, check the kingpin thread, theres some pretty hilarious stuff going on trying to keep them cool.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> what kind of ghetto rigging? like a passive heatsink or active cooling?


This guy did a fine job of cooling that part:


----------



## King4x4

Gigabyte G1 970 blocks will be out on Dec 1 woot!


----------



## reset1101

Please help me guys. I like EK Blood Red coolant but I want to know if it gives any problem with time before buying it. Thanks!


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Please help me guys. I like EK Blood Red coolant but I want to know if it gives any problem with time before buying it. Thanks!


Depends on what tubing your using, these coolants are known to stain clear soft tube over time but other than that I'm pretty sure the coolant itself is good quality.


----------



## Ragsters

Did I miss the EK Black Friday deal? I see stuff on sale but was there anything else that was shown but is now removed becasue of stock?


----------



## Domiro

First come first serve basis, if I'm not mistaken.

I've seen stock deplete and be filled back up (On FC blocks, at least).


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Depends on what tubing your using, these coolants are known to stain clear soft tube over time but other than that I'm pretty sure the coolant itself is good quality.


Thanks a lot, thats what I wanted to know. I watched this video on Youtube and I wondered if this was common or not:


----------



## Jakewat

But as will any coloured coolant and soft tube, if that wasn't fully clear in my statement. The only real way to avoid staining is to use acrylic tube


----------



## Rei86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> finally done my update on Bloody Angel
> 
> just love the white EK block, they nned to do one for GTX980 HOF
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


amazing

Oh god I wish I had the money, time, patience, and skill...


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rei86*
> 
> amazing
> 
> Oh god I wish I had the money, time, patience, and skill...


Its really not that hard, just give yourself time to plan and prepare. Maybe not the time nor "skill" but if you can find some patience, you can make yourself proud









Watch some videos from Singularity Computers, they are extremely helpful. Now that ive done a few crystal link builds, ill never go back to soft tubing ever again.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> this exactly.
> 
> people had to ghetto rig cooling onto their cards because for some reason ek decided oh they dont get too hot, when in reality they do.


ah my apologies.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Please help me guys. I like EK Blood Red coolant but I want to know if it gives any problem with time before buying it. Thanks!


Ive used several bottles of EKoolant blood red and it was just fine, pay no attention to that video, its 2 years old. Regardless, its a good price and indeed has a nice, dark, slightly transparent red that is closely similar to blood. My first few acrylic builds used it and I loved it. If you are using a tube res however, it will be considerably darker than when its in the tubing, just to let you know.


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> But as will any coloured coolant and soft tube, if that wasn't fully clear in my statement. The only real way to avoid staining is to use acrylic tube


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> ah my apologies.
> Ive used several bottles of EKoolant blood red and it was just fine, pay no attention to that video, its 2 years old. Regardless, its a good price and indeed has a nice, dark, slightly transparent red that is closely similar to blood. My first few acrylic builds used it and I loved it. If you are using a tube res however, it will be considerably darker than when its in the tubing, just to let you know.


Thanks to both of you







I will get it then.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Please help me guys. I like EK Blood Red coolant but I want to know if it gives any problem with time before buying it. Thanks!


I have EK blood red for around 2 years now and still great, no issue at all with this coolant


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I have EK blood red for around 2 years now and still great, no issue at all with this coolant


Thanks! Now Im even more confident to buy it


----------



## ideaidea

What tubing are you using with EK Koolant?


----------



## snef

primochill advanced and EK hard tubing

Primochill



EK hard tubing


----------



## reset1101

I use Primochill PrimoFlex Crystal Clear, I dont use EK Koolant yet but I will next week hopefully


----------



## Mark Huntsman

Hi, i want to ask, if somebody can give me the exact internal dimensions of either supreme hf or supremacy? I am testing aluminium block of my own and want to compare them to more efficient design, but also made out of aluminium, so i need to know the microchannels dimensions in those blocks. I also like the smooth elegance of EK blocks, but unfortunately cant afford them for my loop, that is why i am going custom aluminium, because i got my blocks for free at my work.

Thank you.


----------



## Ragsters

Did anyone see if the 7970 CSQ EK block was on sale during black friday?


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Did anyone see if the 7970 CSQ EK block was on sale during black friday?


They had a post on their facebook wall about this. They said they were not on sale because they had no stock. They also said they will not be making anymore of them so If you want one your going to have to find it used or get one that may be left at a retailer but I think last i checked frozen was sold out too.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> They had a post on their facebook wall about this. They said they were not on sale because they had no stock. They also said they will not be making anymore of them so If you want one your going to have to find it used or get one that may be left at a retailer but I think last i checked frozen was sold out too.


Thanks for all that info! I recently purchased a brand new one for $75 shipped and I just wanted to know if a better deal came out but I guess not. Again, thanks!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Hi. I was thinking about getting EK Blood Red for my water cooling. Is there any advice against, like if it gunks or something, it or it works just fine?
> 
> Thanks a lot!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> I use Primochill PrimoFlex Crystal Clear, I dont use EK Koolant yet but I will next week hopefully


Sorry for the late answer I was out of town for the last 3 days...As a bunch of people already told you, you'll be fine with it but just make sure that your soft tubing is the "Advanced" version of the Primochill LRT.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4zp1r1na*
> 
> So... anyone knows if there will be a waterblock for MSI´s X99s Sli Plus or X99S Mpower?
> i´m looking to buy a motherboard, but i want one that has support for a Full Cover Block and so far Asus has only VRM Block aside the Rampage V that does not like me at all since i want to get out of the Red and Black theme.


There should be a Mosfet block soon for the X99S SLI but nothing in plan for the X99S MPower. No Fullblock or Chipset solution for those blocks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> 2 days to release! What a tease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Gigabyte G1 970 blocks will be out on Dec 1 woot!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yessssss


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Sorry for the late answer I was out of town for the last 3 days...As a bunch of people already told you, you'll be fine with it but just make sure that your soft tubing is the "Advanced" version of the Primochill LRT.


Thats the one I have so everythings fine then







Thx!


----------



## MythTFLfan29

Hey, I'm not an owner of any EK products (yet) but was trying to get a feeler for my first water cooling project. I have some older hardware (sig rig ASUS M4G) and was wondering if I took the plunge on performance pcs website to pick up a Supremecy EVO and the clear motherboard block which they have a few left in stock what would be a good match. I'm thinking older hardware would be a good start so if I massively mess something up it's not on $450+ worth of new hardware and I can go at a snails pace to ensure everything works right the first time I power everything up leak free (fingers crossed)... I think I've read that since the mobo block is Nickel I should pair it up with the same type of block, is this correct? I will make a bigger thread if everything comes together soon (money for Christmas gifts to buy the parts) but was just wondering if anyone had any experience with that certain motherboard block and how it fared for them. I'll pick up fittings, tubing, radiators/res at the same time but was just wondering about the CPU/Mobo blocks compatibility and quality/experience with the EK products. Thanks a lot in advance for your time. I really appreciate all the help I've received on this site the last few years.


----------



## korruptedkaos

anybody have EK HDC 10/12mm fittings in red?

I just ordered a load of them & then went looking to see if anybody had done a build with them on here or the internet








I want know what they look like IRL so to say! or in a build? they were on sale







but now im wondering if I made a bad choice


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quick question pertaining to full cover water blocks - If a GPU comes stock with a backplate, can that be used with a water block or do you need to use the EK plate?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Quick question pertaining to full cover water blocks - If a GPU comes stock with a backplate, can that be used with a water block or do you need to use the EK plate?


Sometimes you can re-use them but it's generally a ghetto mod regarding screws length and/or size. I've seen sometimes that you have to bore the screw holes on the backplate to make them fit and sometimes you can only use a few screwing points.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Sometimes you can re-use them but it's generally a ghetto mod regarding screws length and/or size. I've seen sometimes that you have to bore the screw holes on the backplate to make them fit and sometimes you can only use a few screwing points.


Thanks for the info. I was hoping to re use the plate on my G1 but if necessary I'll end up grabbing the EK version to avoid any issues.


----------



## dean_8486

The g1 backplate is longer than the pcb so it will overhang with the waterblock installed. Nothing a dremel cant fix


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> anybody have EK HDC 10/12mm fittings in red?
> 
> I just ordered a load of them & then went looking to see if anybody had done a build with them on here or the internet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want know what they look like IRL so to say! or in a build? they were on sale
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but now im wondering if I made a bad choice


Yes









I have 12 in the parts box ready for Pamela Isley. It won't be a red build, mostly nickel with various colour highlights here and there. Do you want me to dig them out and make a photo?


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 12 in the parts box ready for Pamela Isley. It won't be a red build, mostly nickel with various colour highlights here and there. Do you want me to dig them out and make a photo?


haha, yes please








that's if its not to much hassle, are you starting another build soon then?

I just want a look on the colour of the red. they should be here tomorrow or wed so ill know then anyway


----------



## ideaidea

Wow. Acrylic 970 G1 block wes sold out on the day? No stock already at 15:00 CET 1st of December!

How are you producing the blocks btw? Are you making them only once in large quantities and store them or you are making them in bulks once you sell out?


----------



## Malpractis

Yeah I checked at 5am AEST (about 9hrs ago) and the Nickel was already sold out


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> haha, yes please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's if its not to much hassle, are you starting another build soon then?
> 
> I just want a look on the colour of the red. they should be here tomorrow or wed so ill know then anyway


I tried last night but I don't have a light box so it wasn't showing the right colour. The photos on the site are pretty good tbh. I guess it's better to hold them in your hands









There's always a new build, but I am quite slow as you know








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ideaidea*
> 
> Wow. Acrylic 970 G1 block wes sold out on the day? No stock already at 15:00 CET 1st of December!
> 
> How are you producing the blocks btw? Are you making them only once in large quantities and store them or you are making them in bulks once you sell out?


They have several cnc machines on site, so they make them as demand dictates. Can take some time to build up stock. Just order, you'll get the parts as soon as possible.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

any rve monoblock ETA yet? My rve showed up and its Heatsinks are dinged up

getting a processor on the 9th or so any chance itll be out by then?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> any rve monoblock ETA yet? My rve showed up and its Heatsinks are dinged up
> 
> getting a processor on the 9th or so any chance itll be out by then?


I have to admit, that's one of the only reasons I've been contemplating the RVE... That delicious monoblock. Pity they won't do it for other boards out there as well! (read: Gigabyte SOC Force)


----------



## tatmMRKIV

yeah I broke down n got it but only cuz i got it for 350$

box is dinged and its an open box item so no replacements so I just hope its not damaged, as long as its not damaged i got a steal

the box was in bad shape

if they were making any block at all for my asrock OCF I don't know if I would have bought it.

I wish I had access to hundreds of thousands of dollars of CNC machinery so I could make my own waterblocks


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I tried last night but I don't have a light box so it wasn't showing the right colour. The photos on the site are pretty good tbh. I guess it's better to hold them in your hands
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's always a new build, but I am quite slow as you know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They have several cnc machines on site, so they make them as demand dictates. Can take some time to build up stock. Just order, you'll get the parts as soon as possible.


well here they are! with my old trusty EK rad











they look different than in the official pic. they look very matte like on the official pics which I was worried about!
im happy with them anyway









hope this gives some people an idea of the actual color


----------



## szeged

@ek

I know you are planning on releasing a 980 classy block sometime soon ™

do you plan on releasing only acetyl at the start like you did with the 780 classy? or will we see plexi as well?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> @ek
> 
> I know you are planning on releasing a 980 classy block sometime soon ™
> 
> do you plan on releasing only acetyl at the start like you did with the 780 classy? or will we see plexi as well?


I will get back at you


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I will get back at you


if they say " no acetyl only"

kindly remind them that everyone and their mother instantly bought out the plexi and then demanded more plexi when the 780 classy plexi block finally came.

also remind them to extend the block to cover the memory vrm section as well, it gets stupidly hot.


----------



## Mark Huntsman

Sorry to interrupt you, but can someone give me internal dimensions of supremacy or supreme hf, as far as micro channels go?


----------



## Nichismo

ASUS X99 Deluxe Full EK nickel plexi clean CSQ config






those are nickel plexi clean CSQ GTX 780 tis too


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark Huntsman*
> 
> Sorry to interrupt you, but can someone give me internal dimensions of supremacy or supreme hf, as far as micro channels go?


What did you want to know? Measuring the individual channel width and height isn't easy.

Edit: For those looking at rad fans, here's a small test done on the EK Vardar F4 in this post: http://www.overclock.net/t/1526843/does-ek-just-resurrect-that-good-old-gt-ap-15/50_50#post_23228529


----------



## dean_8486

Whats the deal with ekwb shipping? Made my order Monday morning and still not despatched, contacted cs and was told it 2-4 days to despatch. Not good considering I paid extra for DPD shipping and was told I cannot have the cyber Monday deal for free shipping and 5% off, as I forgot to enter the code at checkout. Very poor, I had a simular experience with another company and they honored the promotion and refunded the amount no fuss. First bad experience I have had with ekwb after buying their products for a long time...


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dean_8486*
> 
> Whats the deal with ekwb shipping? Made my order Monday morning and still not despatched, contacted cs and was told it 2-4 days to despatch. Not good considering I paid extra for DPD shipping and was told I cannot have the cyber Monday deal for free shipping and 5% off, as I forgot to enter the code at checkout. Very poor, I had a simular experience with another company and they honored the promotion and refunded the amount no fuss. First bad experience I have had with ekwb after buying their products for a long time...


I had ordered Monday morning also and got my tracking info today. I was worried since I hadn't seen any emails for the order but they were all dumped into my spam folder.

Surprised they wouldn't honor the code after the fact. In the past I've never had issues with companies honoring the codes once they see that the order was placed at an appropriate time.


----------



## Malpractis

Damn I was going to email them about the code today, I missed it too


----------



## Mark Huntsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What did you want to know? Measuring the individual channel width and height isn't easy.


That is exactly what i need to know, the thickness of fins inside the block, i can approximate the depth. Recently i tried to create my own waterblocks made out of aluminium, but i want to try something similar to supremacy, but also aluminium. Right now the temp of my 2500k @4.7GHz at full load with fans at 12v is somewhere about 62°C and at 7v it is at 70°C, which i think is quite high.
Thanks.


----------



## VSG

Ah ok, the fin stack height is ~1.2mm and fin thickness 30-40 microns or so in average. The fins are too close to each other to get accurate values but hopefully you get an idea of sorts.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dean_8486*
> 
> Whats the deal with ekwb shipping? Made my order Monday morning and still not despatched, contacted cs and was told it 2-4 days to despatch. Not good considering I paid extra for DPD shipping and was told I cannot have the cyber Monday deal for free shipping and 5% off, as I forgot to enter the code at checkout. Very poor, I had a simular experience with another company and they honored the promotion and refunded the amount no fuss. First bad experience I have had with ekwb after buying their products for a long time...


Hi Dean,

We received a lot of orders over the holiday/sale weekend and our B->C shipping department is working frantically to fulfill all of them as soon as possible. Shipping rates are for transit time once it leaves our facility, not packaging time. Your package should be out shortly.


----------



## szeged

planning for a 980 matrix waterblock? gogogogoogogogogogoo.


----------



## MrPT




----------



## dean_8486

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hi Dean,
> 
> We received a lot of orders over the holiday/sale weekend and our B->C shipping department is working frantically to fulfill all of them as soon as possible. Shipping rates are for transit time once it leaves our facility, not packaging time. Your package should be out shortly.


I hope so, how long does DPD generally take from you to UK?


----------



## dean_8486

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> Damn I was going to email them about the code today, I missed it too


Yes I know it sucks their was nothing on the store page when I made the order, only way to know was f***book or twit.


----------



## Mark Huntsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ah ok, the fin stack height is ~1.2mm and fin thickness 30-40 microns or so in average. The fins are too close to each other to get accurate values but hopefully you get an idea of sorts.


Thank you, from the fin thickness i can estimate the distance between them, if you want, i can keep you informed about the further progress on this. You really helped me, because unfortunately i cant afford ek blocks or proper watercooling, so i am experimenting with chinese aluminium radiators and aluminium waterblocks made at my fork for free. (just for info my complete loop, cpu, 2xgpu fullcovers and 2x240mm rads with pumpres combo cost me about 70 bucks).


----------



## VSG

I will be following your progress for sure, good luck


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark Huntsman*
> 
> Thank you, from the fin thickness i can estimate the distance between them, if you want, i can keep you informed about the further progress on this. You really helped me, because unfortunately i cant afford ek blocks or proper watercooling, so i am experimenting with chinese aluminium radiators and aluminium waterblocks made at my fork for free. (just for info my complete loop, cpu, 2xgpu fullcovers and 2x240mm rads with pumpres combo cost me about 70 bucks).


hey mark.

I just made you a rough sketchup model of the supreme HF using a digital caliper. the fins are actually 1.8mm high & the fins are 0.3mm wide.

ekcpublock.zip 209k .zip file


it is pretty much to scale with slight tolerances here & there & the radius's on the curved egdes are not exact.









hope this helps anyway







it should help as a guide anyway.


----------



## lowfat

What is up with the Swiss cheese heatsink?

http://www.ekwb.com/news/553/19/EK-introduces-hybrid-water-cooling-kit-for-GIGABYTE-X99-series-motherboards/


----------



## yoi

is there going to be a EK waterblock for a EVGA 970 ? (not the short one)


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What is up with the Swiss cheese heatsink?
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/553/19/EK-introduces-hybrid-water-cooling-kit-for-GIGABYTE-X99-series-motherboards/


Yeah, that does not make me moist one bit....


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What is up with the Swiss cheese heatsink?
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/553/19/EK-introduces-hybrid-water-cooling-kit-for-GIGABYTE-X99-series-motherboards/


bit of a silly design lol











they would be better off just using the 2 blue holes or add some further down also?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I tell you. Someone at ek has a wierd sexual thing about circles.
They got mad cuz we were sanding them off xD


----------



## szeged

"value kit"

still like $70+ wat


----------



## Flying Donkey

Hey guys I just got my shiny new 290x Block (Original CSQ 2.0) from EK and was wondering if there was supposed to be O-rings included for the FC link? Seems kinda weird that they'd include the link but not the o-rings to actually use it. Also the seals on the outside of the box were broken when I got it but the seal on the block itself was still intact. The block was straight from EK's webstore.


----------



## Ceadderman

.Add me.

Copper Supreme red top.
CIVFormula Main Block.
V.2 acetal dual DDC top.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

I know this is the Ek club, but I have a photon 170 tube pump combo. The pump "in" port screw is stripped... How can I fix it?


----------



## Ceadderman

Probaably a. BEtter idea to just replace it with an EK pump/res top.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

I will soon. But I just bought it, and I can't even use it


----------



## Mark Huntsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> hey mark.
> 
> I just made you a rough sketchup model of the supreme HF using a digital caliper. the fins are actually 1.8mm high & the fins are 0.3mm wide.
> 
> ekcpublock.zip 209k .zip file
> 
> 
> it is pretty much to scale with slight tolerances here & there & the radius's on the curved egdes are not exact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope this helps anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it should help as a guide anyway.


Thank you, this helped me a lot. Right now i am cónsidering building something like openbuilds OX cnc router, but i am still not sure if i will have money for that. For now i will maybe start learning G-code and will be looking for cheapest way to build aluminium and copper capable cnc.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark Huntsman*
> 
> Thank you, this helped me a lot. Right now i am cónsidering building something like openbuilds OX cnc router, but i am still not sure if i will have money for that. For now i will maybe start learning G-code and will be looking for cheapest way to build aluminium and copper capable cnc.


no probs







I was bored









for a mill I wouldn't recommend any flatbed type cnc with a unsupported Z axis....not for copper anyway.
you would be off getting a SIEG Super X3 HiTorque Mill & converting it to a cnc.


----------



## Mark Huntsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> no probs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was bored
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for a mill I wouldn't recommend any flatbed type cnc with a unsupported Z axis....not for copper anyway.
> you would be off getting a SIEG Super X3 HiTorque Mill & converting it to a cnc.


Thanks for reccomendation, but it is highly over my budget. I am not sure if i will ever have money for equipment that expensive (considering i am a student and am not sure if my parrents will be able to borrow me money for that). Maybe sometime in the future i will be able to get it. I was researching it wor a while and thought that i would be able to put together some kind of quite rigid cnc for abous 300-400EUR. The most expensive would be the electronics and the spindle, but i am still looking for some open source design with threaded rods instead of belts. Maybe i will come with my own design for it.

Anyway, i think we are quite off topic now, we should move this discussion to my thread about all aluminium waterloop.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> is there going to be a EK waterblock for a EVGA 970 ? (not the short one)


What is your exact card model?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> "value kit"
> 
> still like $70+ wat


Well it's almost half the price of the normal kit what were you hoping for??










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flying Donkey*
> 
> Hey guys I just got my shiny new 290x Block (Original CSQ 2.0) from EK and was wondering if there was supposed to be O-rings included for the FC link? Seems kinda weird that they'd include the link but not the o-rings to actually use it. Also the seals on the outside of the box were broken when I got it but the seal on the block itself was still intact. The block was straight from EK's webstore.


The O-Rings and the longer screw are included with the FC-Link in the parts bag. I suggest you to open a ticket on the EK website about that. http://www.ekwb.com/support/


----------



## lowfat




----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*


Beautiful !

I love seeing other things that the mainstream black and red boredom.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*

































just don't understand how you can train your cable so tight like that


----------



## DtheM

Use a cable comb or sew/stitch it together..

Sewing - stitching tutorial here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1394784/cable-stitching-sewing-tutorial

Cable comb can be found here: (just an example)

http://www.e22.biz/CC001E2.aspx#.VIDLPTHF-Sw


----------



## lowfat

I think snef knows about those options.

Both are IMO bandaids to a problem that doesn't exist if the sleeving was done properly.

I think combs are good as a tool for training and getting proper wire lengths. But they should be removed afterward.


----------



## Ceadderman

Small zipties are also another option for "training" your cables.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ragsters

They should make a cartoon movie about training your cables. Kinda like the dragon movie only cables.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Block arrived today and is even nicer looking in person! Now I just have to grab the remaining fittings I need and get this loop expanded:thumb:


----------



## Malpractis

Anyone happen to have any pics of plexi blocks with nickel backplates? Trying to decide between nickel or acetal backplate







for my 970's


----------



## dean_8486

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Block arrived today and is even nicer looking in person! Now I just have to grab the remaining fittings I need and get this loop expanded:thumb:


Nice is that the G1 block? More pics when installed please, and some temp results if you have time.
Thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dean_8486*
> 
> Nice is that the G1 block? More pics when installed please, and some temp results if you have time.
> Thanks


Yep, the WF3 block fits the WF3 and the G1 cards


----------



## Domiro

Is the EK-FC R9-290X CSQ Rev.2.0 block supposed to come with o-rings for the Link System?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im lagging a little in Bittechs MOTM....any EK fans want to help a guy out?

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=279969


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Is the EK-FC R9-290X CSQ Rev.2.0 block supposed to come with o-rings for the Link System?


Yes, you didn't receive them with your block?


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes, you didn't receive them with your block?


Yeah, received two blocks, neither had the o-rings.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im lagging a little in Bittechs MOTM....any EK fans want to help a guy out?
> 
> http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=279969


They need to swap out the picture they have posted with the one you posted just now.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Yeah, received two blocks, neither had the o-rings.


It's really wierd, you're the second person this week on this thread with the same issue and with the same block.

Like I said to the other person, I suggest you to open a ticket on the EK website about that. http://www.ekwb.com/support/

But I will also let them know so they can double-check the issue.


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's really wierd, you're the second person this week on this thread with the same issue and with the same block.
> 
> Like I said to the other person, I suggest you to open a ticket on the EK website about that. http://www.ekwb.com/support/
> 
> But I will also let them know so they can double-check the issue.


If you're passing on the info there's no point in me opening a ticket, local hardware store should have right gaskets anyway (OR 14x1.5mm).

I did also notice that both blocks came with 6mm allen keys, rather than the 2.5mm allen keys.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> If you're passing on the info there's no point in me opening a ticket, local hardware store should have right gaskets anyway (OR 14x1.5mm).
> 
> I did also notice that both blocks came with 6mm allen keys, rather than the 2.5mm allen keys.


Ok thanks for the info about the allen key!


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im lagging a little in Bittechs MOTM....any EK fans want to help a guy out?
> 
> http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=279969


I'm not allowed to vote unfortunately (just joined). I've been following your progress here on this build and the amount of work and attention to detail you put in is amazing. Good luck!


----------



## spqmax

is it confirmed there's gonna be a monoblock for the R5E? or just the motherboard blocks?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spqmax*
> 
> is it confirmed there's gonna be a monoblock for the R5E? or just the motherboard blocks?


Cooling Configurator says "coming soon" for a monoblock, so that's probably a yes it's confirmed and coming eventually.


----------



## spqmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Cooling Configurator says "coming soon" for a monoblock, so that's probably a yes it's confirmed and coming eventually.


nice! i'm gonna hold off getting the mobo blocks then! thanks!


----------



## iBored

When will the EK fans be available?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> When will the EK fans be available?


Quote:


> The new fans will be available for purchase through EK Webshop and Partner Reseller Network in first half of January 2015 with limited quantity available in mid December 2014. For customized and OEM parts please inquire for quotation.


http://www.ekwb.com/news/548/19/EK-announces-new-high-pressure-120mm-fan-EK-Vardar/

So... Soon.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *spqmax*
> 
> is it confirmed there's gonna be a monoblock for the R5E? or just the motherboard blocks?
> 
> 
> 
> Cooling Configurator says "coming soon" for a monoblock, so that's probably a yes it's confirmed and coming eventually.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> When will the EK fans be available?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/548/19/EK-announces-new-high-pressure-120mm-fan-EK-Vardar/
> 
> So... Soon.
Click to expand...

True and true


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ek Supremacy Vs Ek Supremacy Evo?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Fans, a small number soon. A larger quantity after new years


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ek Supremacy Vs Ek Supremacy Evo?


Most reviews are showing 1-2C of difference between the two. If you don't have either of them right now, might as well get the Evo, unless you find a good deal on a used non-evo.


----------



## HeyThereGuy

Can someone confirm if this bridge will work with a RVE?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23384/ex-blc-1685/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Dual_Serial_3-Slot_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_DUAL_Serial_3-Slot.html?tl=g57c645s2060&id=mE5PUygL&mv_pc=1333


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyThereGuy*
> 
> Can someone confirm if this bridge will work with a RVE?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23384/ex-blc-1685/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Dual_Serial_3-Slot_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_DUAL_Serial_3-Slot.html?tl=g57c645s2060&id=mE5PUygL&mv_pc=1333


No it won't

I assume you want to SLI so on the RVE you need to use the 1st and the 3rd red PCIe slots.

You will need either those parts depending if you want parallel or serial

*Parallel :*

EK Terminal Block - Triple Parallel

EK Terminal Block - Blank Parallel

*Serial :*

EK Terminal Block - Triple Serial

EK-FC Terminal BLANK Serial

The blank in both situations will be to block the middle port


----------



## HeyThereGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No it won't
> 
> I assume you want to SLI so on the RVE you need to use the 1st and the 3rd red PCIe slots.
> 
> You will need either those parts depending if you want parallel or serial
> 
> *Parallel :*
> 
> EK Terminal Block - Triple Parallel
> 
> EK Terminal Block - Blank Parallel
> 
> *Serial :*
> 
> EK Terminal Block - Triple Serial
> 
> EK-FC Terminal BLANK Serial
> 
> The blank in both situations will be to block the middle port


Thanks for the help.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quick Block Check!!!

Is EK doing a Asus ROG Matrix GTX 980 Block?


----------



## iBored

Dear EK, Couple of things to point out.

Assembling monarch modules and ram block on gskill ripjaws 4 ddr4
1. One of the screws for mounting the ram block onto the module is missing. What size screw is it? M3 or 6/32?

2. The biggy, the ram stick slides out of the monarch module when I pull the ram stick out of the slot. Could you check what thickness thermal strip to prevent this from happening?
*might be important to know I'm using 8gb stocks. So only one side of the ram has modules.

Assembling X99 deluxe vrm block
3. The screws provided for the x99 vrm block do not fit nicely into the countersunk hole on the factory backplate. Doesn't really matter much since it won't be staring at me in the face, but just thought you might wanna consider a smaller screw so it screws in flush with the backplate. That's the reason for countersunk screws isn't it?

Also, what bridge can I use for 2-sli on the x99 deluxe and when can we start ordering the 970 g1 gaming blocks and backplate?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Quick Block Check!!!
> 
> Is EK doing a Asus ROG Matrix GTX 980 Block?


This card is so new that it's not even listed. I will ask and get back at you


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Dear EK, Couple of things to point out.
> 
> Assembling monarch modules and ram block on gskill ripjaws 4 ddr4
> 1. One of the screws for mounting the ram block onto the module is missing. What size screw is it? M3 or 6/32?
> 
> 2. The biggy, the ram stick slides out of the monarch module when I pull the ram stick out of the slot. Could you check what thickness thermal strip to prevent this from happening?
> *might be important to know I'm using 8gb stocks. So only one side of the ram has modules.
> 
> Assembling X99 deluxe vrm block
> 3. The screws provided for the x99 vrm block do not fit nicely into the countersunk hole on the factory backplate. Doesn't really matter much since it won't be staring at me in the face, but just thought you might wanna consider a smaller screw so it screws in flush with the backplate. That's the reason for countersunk screws isn't it?
> 
> Also, what bridge can I use for 2-sli on the x99 deluxe and when can we start ordering the 970 g1 gaming blocks and backplate?


1. M3x6 ISO7380

2. with a 1.5mm thick strip you should be good

3. Noted

About your bridge question, what cpu are you putting on?

As for the 970 G1 Gaming order it should be available really soon


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 1. M3x6 ISO7380
> 
> 2. with a 1.5mm thick strip you should be good
> 
> 3. Noted
> 
> About your bridge question, what cpu are you putting on?
> 
> As for the 970 G1 Gaming order it should be available really soon


Epic EK rep is epic.








I'm on a 5820k. But I'll put both 970's in the 16x slots.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Epic EK rep is epic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm on a 5820k. But I'll put both 970's in the 16x slots.












According to the X99 Deluxe manual you have to put the cards in the 1st and the 4th 16x slots to do SLI on a 28 lanes cpu.

You will need either those parts depending if you want parallel or serial

*Parallel :*

EK Terminal Block - Triple Parallel

EK Terminal Block - Blank Parallel

*Serial :*

EK Terminal Block - Triple Serial

EK-FC Terminal BLANK Serial

The blank in both situations will be to block the middle port


----------



## Squeaks5635

Anyone know why there is a max fill line on the bay res. Why wouldn't you just fill it up as far as it can go?




there is a bunch of space above the max fill line that gets condensation on the front. I was wondering why you can't fill it up all the way.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Epic EK rep is epic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm on a 5820k. But I'll put both 970's in the 16x slots.


please tell me how hard to remove these ddr4 ripjaw heatsinks after you do the job.


----------



## Panther Al

For those that cool both CPU and RAM, what size extender typical is needed to make things line up fitting wise? Shopping around for tax time (Hopefully *this* time I will actually get to put my system under water and not send those funds someplace else - again) and trying to piece out what fittings to get to match up with the Monarch Blocks and the the EVO.


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> For those that cool both CPU and RAM, what size extender typical is needed to make things line up fitting wise? Shopping around for tax time (Hopefully *this* time I will actually get to put my system under water and not send those funds someplace else - again) and trying to piece out what fittings to get to match up with the Monarch Blocks and the the EVO.


On CPU block i use Enzotech BMFL-G14 + standart EKWB 90 Degree rotary fitting and the same fitting on RAM block and it was line up


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Epic EK rep is epic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm on a *5820k*. But I'll put *both 970's* in the 16x slots.
> 
> 
> 
> please tell me how hard to remove these ddr4 ripjaw heatsinks after you do the job.
Click to expand...

Those are GPU not RAM. He's gonna replace the HS with EK GPU blocks.









~Ceadder


----------



## tatmMRKIV

You heat them up with a heatgun and then gently pry them off. then take off the remaining thermal tape
Look in ram addicts thread people ask all the time.
Also unless u got a dual sided kit you will need some thicker thermal tape


----------



## navynuke499

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Anyone know why there is a max fill line on the bay res. Why wouldn't you just fill it up as far as it can go?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there is a bunch of space above the max fill line that gets condensation on the front. I was wondering why you can't fill it up all the way.


Water level will drop slightly when you start your system. The max fill line should be while running I believe. This is to give it room when you shut the system off.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> please tell me how hard to remove these ddr4 ripjaw heatsinks after you do the job.


The piece that covered the ram modules wasn't that hard. It was a single piece of thermal pad that got of easily from heating with a hairdryer.
The other side with no modules gave me some problems. There were a few layers of pads and one of them looked like the 3M fibre tape. Peeling it off almost bowed the ram stick. I had to jam a card in there to slowly separate the heatsink and the stick.


----------



## navynuke499

Here is mine so far.

(1) Supremacy EVO - Nickel (Original CSQ) Nickel/Plexi
(3) FC780 GTX Classy GPU Waterblock- Acetal + Nickel with triple parallel FC terminal
(1) DDC X-TOP CSQ - Plexi
(1) DDC Heatsink Housing - Black
(1) RES X3 250 Reservoir


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> For those that cool both CPU and RAM, what size extender typical is needed to make things line up fitting wise? Shopping around for tax time (Hopefully *this* time I will actually get to put my system under water and not send those funds someplace else - again) and trying to piece out what fittings to get to match up with the Monarch Blocks and the the EVO.


A 30mm extender is what closer to an even line-up since the real height difference is 31mm.

I've used a 30mm a few times and it always work


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> Here is mine so far.
> 
> (1) Supremacy EVO - Nickel (Original CSQ) Nickel/Plexi
> (3) FC780 GTX Classy GPU Waterblock- Acetal + Nickel with triple parallel FC terminal
> (1) DDC X-TOP CSQ - Plexi
> (1) DDC Heatsink Housing - Black
> (1) RES X3 250 Reservoir


What Flow Meter are you using?

The Cautious ONe


----------



## navynuke499

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What Flow Meter are you using?
> 
> The Cautious ONe


Its the bitspower one and its trash. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> Its the bitspower one and its trash. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone.


Sup with that Navy Man? Explain. I would like to incorporate two into my loop.

Any Ideas?


----------



## yoi

@akira749

i have a EVGA 970 FTW . and looking for the waterblocks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> i have a EVGA 970 FTW . and looking for the waterblocks


A lot of people are currently waiting for it to be released. But so far all I can say is......soon


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> A lot of people are currently waiting for it to be released. But so far all I can say is......soon


i can see derick trained you well. lol.

RAMPAGE V MONOBLOCK INFO I DEMANDS IT!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> A lot of people are currently waiting for it to be released. But so far all I can say is......soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i can see derick trained you well. lol.
> 
> RAMPAGE V MONOBLOCK INFO I DEMANDS IT!
Click to expand...

Soon™


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i can see derick trained you well. lol.
> 
> RAMPAGE V MONOBLOCK INFO I DEMANDS IT!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Soon™












As you can see I'm just not allowed to ™ it


----------



## navynuke499

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Sup with that Navy Man? Explain. I would like to incorporate two into my loop.
> 
> Any Ideas?


The hole drilled in the spinner is to large for the shaft its mounted on so it rattles a lot, far worse than any fan ive heard. This is supposed to be fixable by putting 2 washers on the shaft to keep it from wobbling and making the noise, but the washers will also make it so the resistance is so much that the damn spinner doesnt spin. Kind of useless really. Im going to leave it installed without the spinner just because I dont want to make that long section of piping over again.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Soon™




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see I'm just not allowed to ™ it


lol


----------



## snef

on pics the flow meter seem to be Primochill not Bitspower


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> on pics the flow meter seem to be Primochill not Bitspower


@snef MY MAN!! Hey what would you recommend? I have read tons of reviews on flow meters but is there one that looks radical and works that you know of?

The Cautious One


----------



## snef

PM is the way, don't want to hijack EK post


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> on pics the flow meter seem to be Primochill not Bitspower


It's a Primochill indeed.

Here's mine....but I didn't had the same issue with the spinner


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> The piece that covered the ram modules wasn't that hard. It was a single piece of thermal pad that got of easily from heating with a hairdryer.
> The other side with no modules gave me some problems. There were a few layers of pads and one of them looked like the 3M fibre tape. Peeling it off almost bowed the ram stick. I had to jam a card in there to slowly separate the heatsink and the stick.


Does the no module pad look like this?


----------



## snef

I put a a 1.5mm thick thermal pad on side W/O module


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's a Primochill indeed.
> 
> Here's mine....but I didn't had the same issue with the spinner
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I had never put two and two together, Never realized this was your build. I feel silly.

The Cautious One


----------



## smicha

Here are some of photos from my build log - all EK parts


----------



## navynuke499

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's a Primochill indeed.
> 
> Here's mine....but I didn't had the same issue with the spinner


You are correct good sir, not sure how I messed that up.

Mine may just be a quality control issue, but I still wouldn't recommend it based just on my experience with it.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Soon™


I remember seeing such a comment in sections CCP hadn't done yet when Dust 514 was still in early beta. Took up a third of a 32" screen too, and I coildn't stop laughing for a few seconds...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I had never put two and two together, Never realized this was your build. I feel silly.
> 
> The Cautious One


You feel silly about what?


----------



## TTheuns

Does EK sell female to female 90 degree fittings?


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Does EK sell female to female 90 degree fittings?


Cant find them at their website, so no


----------



## szeged

Any updates on the 980 classy block?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Does EK sell female to female 90 degree fittings?
> 
> 
> 
> Cant find them at their website, so no
Click to expand...

This ^^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Any updates on the 980 classy block?


Sorry no


----------



## tatmMRKIV

What about r5e monoblock?
The BPs are out. But i have a feeling the ek one cools the cpu better


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> What about r5e monoblock?
> The BPs are out. But i have a feeling the ek one cools the cpu better


No news so all I can say is that their should be one but I don't know when. I told them that it's in demand by a lot of people but that's all I can do. "Told them"


----------



## derickwm

When we have updates on R5E monoblock and EVGA 980 Classy, we will let you know.


----------



## inedenimadam

PPCS wants $4.50 in shipping for a $0.99 jetplate...









and I live like three counties west of their shop.


----------



## Leyaena

Was there any more info on the full-cover water blocks for the 980 Classy's?
I've got two Classy's on the way, but it's been a good long while since I last had aircooled GPUs in my system, and I don't really feel like draining and rearranging my loop twice if I don't have to


----------



## derickwm

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> Was there any more info on the full-cover water blocks for the 980 Classy's?
> I've got two Classy's on the way, but it's been a good long while since I last had aircooled GPUs in my system, and I don't really feel like draining and rearranging my loop twice if I don't have to


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> When we have updates on R5E monoblock and EVGA 980 Classy, we will let you know.


2 posts up...


----------



## Leyaena

*facepalm

... woops


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> This ^^
> Sorry no


I am guessing they aren't in the works either?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> This ^^
> Sorry no
> 
> 
> 
> I am guessing they aren't in the works either?
Click to expand...

Fittings are currently being discussed, I won't rule it out completely but it hasn't been decided yet either.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Fittings are currently being discussed, I won't rule it out completely but it hasn't been decided yet either.


Alright, thanks. I'll just keep hoping then


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Alright, thanks. I'll just keep hoping then


I want some fittings also. cough cough! in red









just need 45' & 90's with 1 side removable from outer to inner threads? that will do the job


----------



## Malpractis

Any news on Nickel 970 Gigabyte G1 Gaming backplates?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> Any news on Nickel 970 Gigabyte G1 Gaming backplates?


The black as just been released yesterday if I remember correctly so the nickel one should follow


----------



## Malpractis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The black as just been released yesterday if I remember correctly so the nickel one should follow










mate


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You feel silly about what?


That I didn't realize that was your build


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That I didn't realize that was your build


How could you know unless you checked my earlier build logs?









The pictures I showed are from my build but the one that started your question about the flow meters are the one from NavyNuke









Mine :



His :


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BranField*
> 
> it really is a fantastic looking block, ive just fitted one on my vaporx with the ek backplate and it is stunning


Can you use the Vapor-X backplate with the EK block?
Quote:


> 3. ATTACHING THE BLOCK TO THE GRAPHIC CARD. Use a Philips screwdriver
> with the enclosed M3x4 DIN 7985 screws. EKWB recommends users to start
> tightening the screws around the GPU core and continue outwards. *Original
> backplate can't be used with EK-FC R9-290X VaporX water block*.


Found the answer


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> Can you use the Vapor-X backplate with the EK block?
> Found the answer


Yer it does say that you can't use the original. But tbh I think the vaporx one isn't particularly a good looker. I much prefer the ek plate.

Loving my block so far, I'm at 1150/1500 with +100mv and never seen it go above 44c with hours of gaming


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Out of sheer curiosity, will the ek block for the MSI 970 Gaming work with the stock backplate for the 970 Golden Editon?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> @ek
> 
> I know you are planning on releasing a 980 classy block sometime soon ™
> 
> do you plan on releasing only acetyl at the start like you did with the 780 classy? or will we see plexi as well?


I asked your question and they told me that there will only be one version. Either the Acetal-Nickel or the Plexi-Nickel. They haven't decide yet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> Any news on Nickel 970 Gigabyte G1 Gaming backplates?


Unfortunately there won't be any Nickel backplates for the non-reference blocks that were recently released. Only the black versions.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@akira749

Like I said Im silly



THIS THIS. I hate missing Details like this.

Ive Stared at this build before when my debate to get a Caselabs Case was in Order. That's why I feel silly. I knew that Navynukes build wasnt yours... I knew that. But its just the madness that keeps us in the Threads.

I need more Coffee


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> Like I said Im silly
> 
> 
> 
> THIS THIS. I hate missing Details like this.
> 
> Ive Stared at this build before when my debate to get a Caselabs Case was in Order. That's why I feel silly. I knew that Navynukes build wasnt yours... I knew that. But its just the madness that keeps us in the Threads.
> 
> I need more Coffee


Cool


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I asked your question and they told me that there will only be one version. Either the Acetal-Nickel or the Plexi-Nickel. They haven't decide yet.
> Unfortunately there won't be any Nickel backplates for the non-reference blocks that were recently released. Only the black versions.


thats lame
Plexi is bad for subzero


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Cool


Am I crazy?

The Cautious One


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am I crazy?
> 
> The Cautious One
Click to expand...

Is there anyone on OCN that isn't?









Especially me...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Is there anyone on OCN that isn't?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Especially me...


Thank You for that.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> thats lame
> Plexi is bad for subzero


By subzero you mean LN2?


----------



## Malpractis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Unfortunately there won't be any Nickel backplates for the non-reference blocks that were recently released. Only the black versions.


Ahh damn that sucks, thanks a lot for the info though







least I can grab the Black ones


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I asked your question and they told me that there will only be one version. Either the Acetal-Nickel or the Plexi-Nickel. They haven't decide yet.
> .


Ouch. All the other card types get 2-3 but only one for Classifieds? I thought their plans were 2-3 block types for all custom cards they choose to provide blocks for? It only makes sense to have at least the acetal and acrylic options, since that way the customer has a choice whether to go stealthed or fancier/show off.


----------



## orndorf77

I have a ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 and I am now running mayhems blitz part 2 and on the mayhems blitz instructions it says after flushing the blitz part 2 to clean out any filter your loop might have . is there a filter inside my ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 ? and if there is how do I take it out of the pump to clean it ?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I have a ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 and I am now running mayhems blitz part 2 and on the mayhems blitz instructions it says after flushing the blitz part 2 to clean out any filter your loop might have . is there a filter inside my ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 ? and if there is how do I take it out of the pump to clean it ?


No there's no filters

If you have installed the little black anti-vortex foam in it you might wanna clean it but that's it.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No there's no filters
> 
> If you have installed the little black anti-vortex foam in it you might wanna clean it but that's it.


I didn't use the foam thing I left the clear ek letters in the res tube . I guess all the crap that the blitz gets out of my blocks it will come out of my drain port . I just installed a bitspower mini valve I connected it to my bottom graphic card with a few other fittings . I will post pictures after I finish flushing my loop


----------



## orndorf77

I was running mayhems blitz part 2 and my ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 died . there is ether some thing wrong with the pump or the ac to molex I am using to run the pump . i don't have a jumper to use my power supply to run the pump and I never used paper clips to do it


----------



## orndorf77

my 3 month old ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 died on me . does ek have some kind of warranty ?


----------



## orndorf77

i was flushing my loop and I think I mite of got fluid on the inside of my ek ddc 3.25 pumps wires and now my pump is not working will the wires eventually dry and will the pump work again ? I have been trying to turn the power on evrey hour and I had no luck . how long should I give it before I try to power on the pump again ?


----------



## orndorf77

My ek ddc 3.25 died . i was running mayhems blitz part 2 when I first started running it the pump sounded real loud and the sound was not from my case vibrating because I had my pump decoupled . the pump sounded like it was going super fast . after 3 hours of running blitz I went to check on my loop and I found my ek ddc 3.25 was not working . the only things that I think could have caused this is the pump over heated but I did not smell burning or the pump could have got fluid on its wires. the pump is only 3 months old . is there a way I can fix it ?


----------



## WiSK

I think Blitz is foamy, so possibly the pump impeller was getting air and not getting enough lubrication? That's maybe why it sounded loud.

Anyway, for the small chance of RMA, you should make a ticket on EK's website directly.


----------



## Vindicare

Hello guys.

Starting a new build, i'm using all EK fittings and blocks and reservoir (using primochill tubing and alphacool radiator.

All my blocks have acrilic and nickel, they are transparent with the original csq look.

about the fittings i should only hand tight these right? to not harm the acrilic do they need to be very tight?

Also its going into a x99 platform should i order the J3 plate for the supremacy evo? mine did not come with it, is it very hard to install i heard that closing the cpu block is not very easy.

Thank you.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> Hello guys.
> 
> Starting a new build, i'm using all EK fittings and blocks and reservoir (using primochill tubing and alphacool radiator.
> 
> All my blocks have acrilic and nickel, they are transparent with the original csq look.
> 
> about the fittings i should only hand tight these right? to not harm the acrilic do they need to be very tight?
> 
> Also its going into a x99 platform should i order the J3 plate for the supremacy evo? mine did not come with it, is it very hard to install i heard that closing the cpu block is not very easy.
> 
> Thank you.


Is that Grey Fox?


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> END.
> 
> CranBerry was my first 'big' project. Although it was my first time at almost everything it turned out pretty decent. Let the pictures say the rest...
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/14887392488
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/14887330430
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/14887462747
> Had a little of fun with steel wool.
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/14887303799
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/15070977741
> 
> They say, u capture man's soul when shooting in B&W. CranBerry in his birthplace


I want to join in this club.


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks awesomesauce!









~Ceadder


----------



## tSgt

That does looking really nice ! Good job sir


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I love stickerbombs

On topic: I am correct in that there is no way to watercool dominator platinum ram kits right?


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I love stickerbombs
> 
> On topic: I am correct in that there is no way to watercool dominator platinum ram kits right?


You can, you just need to remove the stock cooler and get some EK-Monarch modules


----------



## Panther Al

Yep: Monarch modules would work, but bear in mind the PCB is taller, so you are not going to get full coverage.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I read the leds interfered with getting a good contact


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I read the leds interfered with getting a good contact


You have to remove everything. The side heatsink, the top heatsink AND the metallic bar that include leds if you have them


----------



## orndorf77

how do I hook up a swiftech mcp3350 to a ek x-res 100 ?


----------



## ALT F4

Would an EK top on my MCP35x pump actually give me added performance anywhere in flow rate or pressure?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Would an EK top on my MCP35x pump actually give me added performance anywhere in flow rate or pressure?


No. The mcp35x top is the best performing top out.


----------



## VSG

Has someone tested out the EK top against it? Top tests are so subjective/rare.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> No. The mcp35x top is the best performing top out.


I've read this in a few places which is why I ask here
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Has someone tested out the EK top against it? Top tests are so subjective/rare.


Yeah, I was curious if that may have been done by someone already here. I know there has to be more people like myself who read "up to 15%" and want to test to see if that's a 0.0015% or 1.5%


----------



## lowfat

IIRC the MCP35X top is designed around the unreleased design Petra posted after he sold Petra Tech Shop. It was assumed at the time it was the best design possible for a DDC top. But like with most water-cooling products we are talking a percent difference at best. Just buy whatever you find most aesthetically pleasing.

Skinnee did a review of tops a few years back. I am not sure if his site if still around.


----------



## orndorf77

I got my new swiftech mcp350 working with my ek x-res 100 the swiftech mcp350 is more quite then my ek ddc 3.25 that died after 3 months . I am in the middle of filling my loop now the fluid looks like it is moving slower then it did when I had my ek ddc 3.25 . I hope its performance is up to Parr


----------



## orndorf77

was I supposed to take the O ring off my swiftech ddc mcp350 before hooking it up to my ek x- res 100 ? I seen a video on youtube where the guy takes the O ring off the ddc pump before hooking it up to the ek x- res


----------



## szeged

can the ek vga supremacy be used with bitspower 10/12mm rigid fittings?


----------



## SteezyTN

I just want to say that I love my EK-FC780 GTX Ti acetal water blocks. Have them on my two 6GB 780's, and I have never seen them hit higher that 50C. Going on 1 month strong haha. Thanks EK


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IIRC the MCP35X top is designed around the unreleased design Petra posted after he sold Petra Tech Shop. It was assumed at the time it was the best design possible for a DDC top. *But like with most water-cooling products we are talking a percent difference at best. Just buy whatever you find most aesthetically pleasing.*
> 
> Skinnee did a review of tops a few years back. I am not sure if his site if still around.


I changed my top from the Swiftech stock to the Bitspower DDC and what I liked the most was that the noise changed dramatically for the better. Not only did the new Bitspower top look better but it was much quieter too.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I changed my top from the Swiftech stock to the Bitspower DDC and what I liked the most was that the noise changed dramatically for the better. Not only did the new Bitspower top look better but it was much quieter too.


Will get sound decrease, the specs say there is a lower pressure drop than the stock. I don't know how much though


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Would an EK top on my MCP35x pump actually give me added performance anywhere in flow rate or pressure?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IIRC the MCP35X top is designed around the unreleased design Petra posted after he sold Petra Tech Shop. It was assumed at the time it was the best design possible for a DDC top. But like with most water-cooling products we are talking a percent difference at best. Just buy whatever you find most aesthetically pleasing.
> 
> Skinnee did a review of tops a few years back. I am not sure if his site if still around.


It Absolutely Is still there!

MCP35x

I know that I've read of the pump top results somewhere too but I don't know if Skinnee had um.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Will get sound decrease, the specs say there is a lower pressure drop than the stock. I don't know how much though


Page 3 On Skinnee

These appear to be different Tops

@lowfat

I reclaim my statement. They were on the last page.


----------



## Vindicare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Is that Grey Fox?


who?

has anyone installed the J3 plate on the Supremacy Evo?

was it hard?


----------



## VSG

Just did yesterday, no different than any other jet plate. Open up the block (pics in the review linked in my sig) and swap it out.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> who?
> 
> has anyone installed the J3 plate on the Supremacy Evo?
> 
> was it hard?


Your Profile Picture is that Of Grey Fox that plays a great character in Metal Gear Solid.

The Cautious One

Gray (Grey) Fox


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> was I supposed to take the O ring off my swiftech ddc mcp350 before hooking it up to my ek x- res 100 ? I seen a video on youtube where the guy takes the O ring off the ddc pump before hooking it up to the ek x- res


Just follow the provided instructions that came with your pump/res

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109842669.pdf


----------



## roniebravo

almost 2015! can't wait for putting some of the EK vardars on my just purchased rx 480 and 240 v3 radiators


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roniebravo*
> 
> almost 2015! can't wait for putting some of the EK vardars on my just purchased rx 480 and 240 v3 radiators


Ek Vardars?

Explain


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ek Vardars?
> 
> Explain


EK announces new high-pressure 120mm fan EK-Vardar


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> can the ek vga supremacy be used with bitspower 10/12mm rigid fittings?


Anyone?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Anyone?


I thought they were G 1/4 threads.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Anyone?


I didn't answer because I thought it was a trick question









As TCO says, everything is G1/4 nowadays...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> *I didn't answer because I thought it was a trick question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> As TCO says, everything is G1/4 nowadays...












What Just Happened. LMAO. Your answer did make me chuckle. A couple people looked at me from around the dealership.

THe Cautious One


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> can the ek vga supremacy be used with bitspower 10/12mm rigid fittings?
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone?
Click to expand...

Oups sorry I miss this one!

Yes it should fit


----------



## szeged

sorry i didnt mean about the threads, i meant will the outer diameter of the collar of the compression fit side by side another one, ive had a few blocks have trouble fitting things due to the ports being too close together.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> sorry i didnt mean about the threads, i meant will the outer diameter of the collar of the compression fit side by side another one, ive had a few blocks have trouble fitting things due to the ports being too close together.


Don't worry I know you meant width wise and my answer was in this way. At 20mm wide the fittings should fit.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Don't worry I know you meant width wise and my answer was in this way. At 20mm wide the fittings should fit.


cool ty, i was just wondering because the product page says only the 10mm psc fittings were a confirmed fit, which are what...14mm OD? so it had me worrying a bit.

oh one last question, will a thermosphere uni block fit a gtx classified pcb? my guess is no since it has a much taller pcb than reference.


----------



## lowfat

The Bitspower C47 fitting is pretty much the lowest profile fitting around.


----------



## VSG

Even among the compression style metric ones:



EK ones are good too but I wish they have something to grip the "barb" end on to. They do work well with an allen key though so as long as you can get some leverage that won't be an issue.


----------



## szeged

i wish BP had black sparkle in stock when i originally ordered all my fittings, i love the look of em, i guess matte black isnt so bad though


----------



## Jakusonfire

The EK PSC 3/8 x 1/2 fittings were 19mm OD and the EK HDC 12mm are 19mm OD. BP enhance are like 20mm OD

I get wanting something on the barb to grip on soft tubings, why I always thought Monsoons were dumb, but with hard tube the pipe can't twist so the barb doesn't really move and the friction to undo against an oring is far less than against compressed tube so there is less twisting force to begin with.

I've grown to like the EK HDC's more and more. With the BP enhance there is always that split in the middle of the fitting when its on tube but the EK sit nice and flush looking one piece. Plus the way the barb section can take an allen key to get nice and tight or undo can be handy.
Its a super small difference but it looks to me at least that the EK blend a bit better with fittings so they don't look circumcised







As much as is possible without just using the original and best C47 anyway.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Even among the compression style metric ones:
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> EK ones are good too but I wish they have something to grip the "barb" end on to
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Thats a great shot


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Don't worry I know you meant width wise and my answer was in this way. At 20mm wide the fittings should fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cool ty, i was just wondering because the product page says only the 10mm psc fittings were a confirmed fit, which are what...14mm OD? so it had me worrying a bit.
> 
> oh one last question, will a thermosphere uni block fit a gtx classified pcb? my guess is no since it has a much taller pcb than reference.
Click to expand...

It'll fit... The two backports just won't be usable


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ek Nickle Backplate

Can I just state that I NEED These for my new build but I find them expensive.

Ok Thank you


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ek Nickle Backplate
> 
> Can I just state that I NEED These for my new build but I find them expensive.
> 
> Ok Thank you


They're expensive to make


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> They're expensive to make


I know. Nickle plating is an expensive process but... but....


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Thats a great shot


Thanks, but that was just an average shot. Poor contrast overall, needs some shadow lifting on the EK fittings and a stack focus should have been done with a slider instead of opening up the aperture and taking the lazy route. I was just getting used to the light box at that stage and was checking out the various metric hardline fittings. Took more pics then as well.


----------



## szeged

Who edits photos anyways.


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Has someone tested out the EK top against it? Top tests are so subjective/rare.


Maybe i late... But here it is.


----------



## VSG

Thanks for that. What are the three other lines going upwards- is the red line for the MCP35B? I assume the X axis is flowrate in liters per hour and Y1 axis is pressure drop is PSI. What is the Y2 axis? Thanks again


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Thanks for that. What are the three other lines going upwards- is the red line for the MCP35B? I assume the X axis is flowrate in liters per hour and Y1 axis is pressure drop is PSI. What is the Y2 axis? Thanks again


It energy consumption in Watts
Always welcome.


----------



## VSG

Interesting. I would have thought power consumption would be higher. Thanks, +1 for the share.


----------



## orndorf77

how does my build look ? I put a bitspower mini valve and a few fittings on my bottom graphic card and I put red anti kink coils on my tubing


[*]
[*]
[*]


----------



## Leyaena

Has there been any more word on the EVGA 980 Classy blocks?

After having watercooled for quite a while, it just makes me really nervous to check afterburner and see one of my cards consistently hovering around 70-80 degrees under load...
The last thing I read was that they were rumoured to be delayed until january?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> Has there been any more word on the EVGA 980 Classy blocks?
> 
> After having watercooled for quite a while, it just makes me really nervous to check afterburner and see one of my cards consistently hovering around 70-80 degrees under load...
> The last thing I read was that they were rumoured to be delayed until january?


Last @akira749 mentioned was "Soon-TM"


----------



## Georgey123

2nd part of January from what I heard on EK's facebook page for the classy blocks.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> Has there been any more word on the EVGA 980 Classy blocks?
> 
> After having watercooled for quite a while, it just makes me really nervous to check afterburner and see one of my cards consistently hovering around 70-80 degrees under load...
> The last thing I read was that they were rumoured to be delayed until january?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Last @akira749 mentioned was "Soon-TM"


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> 2nd part of janurary from what I heard on EK's facebook page for the classy blocks.


Yep delayed until january 2015


----------



## Leyaena

Thanks guys, that way at least I know I don't have to keep checking EKWB's news page twice a day, like I've been doing for the last week or two


----------



## Razroid

I'm running all EK blocks so count me in the club









-EK-Supreme HF - Acetal+Nickel
-EK-FC7970 Lightning
-EKWB EK-FB R3E - Acetal+ En Nickel


The Motherboard and gpu blocks were spray painted black because I like black :3


----------



## Oxside

EK-FC780 GTX Classy - Acetal+Nickel









EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Acetal+Nickel


----------



## tatmMRKIV

They happen to mention anything about the rve monoblock?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> They happen to mention anything about the rve monoblock?


Still no news.

We will post news as soon as there's something new about it


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Well i mean no news is good news when the news is things are getting pushed back.


----------



## Leyaena

So, say I was to get a couple of GPU-only blocks for my 980 Classy's, while waiting for the full-cover blocks to come out...

What exactly do I need? Is there a good way to keep the VRM's cooled as well? Would VRM temperatures even be a problem?
I've always gone with full-cover blocks, so I'm a bit lost with GPU-only cooling


----------



## Ceadderman

I would clear some of the paint off the port of your MB block. Metal fittings will wear the paint off and it could possibly get into your e tloop. Would hate to see you bork your pump(s) as a result of that.









~Ceadder


----------



## orndorf77

I bought a ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 3 months ago and the pump died . so i bought a swiftech mcp350 because it was compatible with my ek x-res 100 reservoir top . it feels like the swiftech mcp350 has a lot less pressure then my ek ddc 3.25 had . when I would look at the x-res 100 reservoir top when I had my ek ddc 3.25 connected to it I could see the fluid moving . now with my swiftech mcp350 I can hardly see the fluid moving . the good thing is the swiftech mcp350 is extremely quite while the ek ddc 3.25 was extremely loud . the most important thing is my temperatures with the swiftech mcp350 is the same as when I had my ek ddc 3.25 . the only thing that concerns me is . will my swiftech mcp350 have enough pressure if I was to add more components to my loop ? I know the ek ddc 3.25 would of had enough pressure if I was to add more components to my loop


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Any news on the MSI 980 Gaming 4G blocks? ^_^


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would clear some of the paint off the port of your MB block. Metal fittings will wear the paint off and it could possibly get into your e tloop. Would hate to see you bork your pump(s) as a result of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Can that happen? damn, I already have most of the acrylic tubing assembled


----------



## technics614

I did a quick search of this forum,along with some googlefu, and I also tried to find the spacing between slots on the Asus website for the REV x99 to no avail. I assume this block will work for the 980GTX's in SLi, considering the picture on the FCPU site, but does anyone know for certain which connector CSQ block to get for two GTX980's in SLi on an Asus x99 Rampage Extreme?

I appreciate any feedback, and apologize if my search skills aren't up to snuff.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *technics614*
> 
> I did a quick search of this forum,along with some googlefu, and I also tried to find the spacing between slots on the Asus website for the REV x99 to no avail. I assume this block will work for the 980GTX's in SLi, considering the picture on the FCPU site, but does anyone know for certain which connector CSQ block to get for two GTX980's in SLi on an Asus x99 Rampage Extreme?
> 
> I appreciate any feedback, and apologize if my search skills aren't up to snuff.


You said " I assume this block will work for the 980GTX's in SLi"....which block?


----------



## technics614

It helps if I include a link eh, hehe. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16407/ex-blc-1161/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Parallel_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Acetal_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Parallel_CSQ.html?tl=g57c645s2062#blank


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *technics614*
> 
> It helps if I include a link eh, hehe. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16407/ex-blc-1161/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Parallel_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Acetal_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Parallel_CSQ.html?tl=g57c645s2062#blank










it helps yes

But this is not the bridge you need

To SLI on the RVE you need to use the 1st and the 3rd red PCIe slots.

You will need either those parts depending if you want parallel or serial

*Parallel :*

EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Parallel CSQ

EK-FC Link BLANK Parallel CSQ

*Serial :*

EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Serial CSQ

EK-FC Link BLANK Serial CSQ - Acetal

The blank in both situations will be to block the middle port


----------



## akira749

Also this is assuming that you have this specific 980 block : EK-FC980 GTX - Nickel (Original CSQ)


----------



## orndorf77

do better pumps = better temperature


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> do better pumps = better temperature


not all the time, if you have a huge loop then a better pump helps


----------



## technics614

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Also this is assuming that you have this specific 980 block : EK-FC980 GTX - Nickel (Original CSQ)


Yes, the reference blocks are what I will be acquiring. Thanks for the heads up on the first and third slot usage as well as the links!







+rep


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> do better pumps = better temperature


As long as you have 1.5-1.0gpm in the loop you will be fine.

It's the rads that get rid of the heat... the more the merrier.


----------



## Nichismo




----------



## tSgt

The noise is real !


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> As long as you have 1.5-1.0gpm in the loop you will be fine.
> 
> It's the rads that get rid of the heat... the more the merrier.


its been bothering me for a long time that I dont have D5 pumps, mainly because I love Bitspower and the pump/reservoir combos with the D5s look amazing, and ive also really liked the EK units as well, mainly if I plan to run both inlet and outlet from the pump top. Yet, I bought 2 Swiftech MCP35X's and im still using them. With the OEM top, heatsink/new housing, and fan controller (as running them 100% 24/7 is a terrible idea imo, due to noise, heat, longevity), they werent really any cheaper than D5s as well....

They look okay, but ive been tempted to just buy replacement D5s for so long, its been irkin me like crazy. But the fact that its going to cost close to 500$ for the pumps, sleeving, OEM tops and covers, and reservoir adapters.... I always passed. I hate how my DDC's can be loud, get hot, and dont have the best flow (especially now that ive got dual loops that both have alot of restriction, and only 1 pump per loop), and don't look so great, D5s are pretty much the opposite.

Would it be worth upgrading? I dont have much of a way to sell the DDCs after either...


----------



## Leyaena

So, I'll be picking up some GPU-only blocks while waiting for the full-cover blocks to release for the 980 Classified.
I had one last question, though:

Are the Supremacy blocks (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vga-supremacy-acetal-nickel.html) compatible with the fittings I'm using (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-csq-fitting-10-16mm-g1-4-black.html)?

The product page is a little bit confusing when it comes to that information, stating:
*- EK-PSC compression fittings up to size 10mm are supported by this product. Larger EK-PSC series fittings cannot be used!*

But I don't think the EK-PSC fittings even exist anymore?
Thanks for the feedback!


----------



## Nichismo




----------



## Ragsters

What do you guys think of my TIM application on my 7970? I was putting my new block on and used MX3 on the GPU die instead of the supplied EK stuff. I just used it because it was in front of me.







So I guess the questions are is the application ok and did I make a mistake of using MX3 and not the EK stuff?


----------



## szeged

imo its a little too much, im a fan of the small dot in the middle, but if its not wayyy too much, it wont matter in the end.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> imo its a little too much, im a fan of the small dot in the middle, but if its not wayyy too much, it wont matter in the end.


I use the dot in the middle method as well when it comes to CPUs but in this case I was just trying to follow EKs directions.


----------



## szeged

i use the dot for cpu and gpu, ends up working well. I tried the X application a few times also, it worked as well but i like the dot because it covers just as much and uses less expensive gelid extreme l;ol


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> So, I'll be picking up some GPU-only blocks while waiting for the full-cover blocks to release for the 980 Classified.
> I had one last question, though:
> 
> Are the Supremacy blocks (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vga-supremacy-acetal-nickel.html) compatible with the fittings I'm using (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-csq-fitting-10-16mm-g1-4-black.html)?
> 
> The product page is a little bit confusing when it comes to that information, stating:
> *- EK-PSC compression fittings up to size 10mm are supported by this product. Larger EK-PSC series fittings cannot be used!*
> 
> But I don't think the EK-PSC fittings even exist anymore?
> Thanks for the feedback!


I just installed a supremacy evo in my computer and I can verify that primochill rigid revolver fittings are compatible. These fittings are 24 mm diameter on the outside of the compression ring. There is not much more room between them so I wouldn't go much bigger than that.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

bitspower quick compression fittings and sparkle v3 fit


----------



## Vindicare

Guys on a EK-XRES 140 D5 i want to setup a drain system, basically with a t fitting and a mini valve.

Whats the best port to install the drain port the intake or outtake?

The outtake is lower would that be the best place or does the pump interrupt flow or something like that?


----------



## Ceadderman

The lowest point in the loop is the best spot to place a drain. Sucks most of the coolant out when released into your catch bucket.









~Ceadder


----------



## lowfat

Finally got my rig up today. Running my Thermosphere w/ the flow backwards through the block. Even then I can't seem to break 37C on my GTX980 @ 1541MHz. VRM temps tend to hover around 85C but it hasn't affected stability yet.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Looks like I get to join the club.

Ordered up a Supremacy EVO Gold on Friday for my new build.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> So, I'll be picking up some GPU-only blocks while waiting for the full-cover blocks to release for the 980 Classified.
> I had one last question, though:
> 
> Are the Supremacy blocks (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vga-supremacy-acetal-nickel.html) compatible with the fittings I'm using (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-csq-fitting-10-16mm-g1-4-black.html)?
> 
> The product page is a little bit confusing when it comes to that information, stating:
> *- EK-PSC compression fittings up to size 10mm are supported by this product. Larger EK-PSC series fittings cannot be used!*
> 
> But I don't think the EK-PSC fittings even exist anymore?
> Thanks for the feedback!


It should fit but it might be tight. The fittings you're looking for are 22mm in overall with and the 10mm EK-PSC were 19mm overall.

And you can see that there's not much space left between the 2 fittings



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> I just installed a supremacy evo in my computer and I can verify that primochill rigid revolver fittings are compatible. These fittings are 24 mm diameter on the outside of the compression ring. There is not much more room between them so I wouldn't go much bigger than that.


Leyaena was talking about the EK-VGA Supremacy which is a universal GPU block


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Leyaena was talking about the EK-VGA Supremacy which is a universal GPU block


Whoops, that's what happens when you don't click on the link they posted. My bad.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Nichismo


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Can you use spoilers



The Cautious one


----------



## Squeaks5635

Finally Finished: Almost Everything EK



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Figured that out just for you @TheCautiousOne


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Finally Finished: Almost Everything EK
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Figured that out just for you @TheCautiousOne


Looks amazing


----------



## Leyaena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> So, I'll be picking up some GPU-only blocks while waiting for the full-cover blocks to release for the 980 Classified.
> I had one last question, though:
> 
> Are the Supremacy blocks (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vga-supremacy-acetal-nickel.html) compatible with the fittings I'm using (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-csq-fitting-10-16mm-g1-4-black.html)?
> 
> The product page is a little bit confusing when it comes to that information, stating:
> *- EK-PSC compression fittings up to size 10mm are supported by this product. Larger EK-PSC series fittings cannot be used!*
> 
> But I don't think the EK-PSC fittings even exist anymore?
> Thanks for the feedback!
> 
> 
> 
> It should fit but it might be tight. The fittings you're looking for are 22mm in overall with and the 10mm EK-PSC were 19mm overall.
> 
> And you can see that there's not much space left between the 2 fittings
Click to expand...

I placed my order yesterday, so I guess I'll find out soon-ish...
Since the order is still processing, though, I have a few quick questions:

- Would any of the adapter fittings on the website fit more comfortably on the block?
- If so, if I gave you my previous order number and ordered them, and could you merge the orders? I paid for the 1-day shipping on the first package, and it'd be kinda silly to pay again just for 4 fittings...

Thanks so much for your help!


----------



## ivoryg37

Anyone know if the 780 Ti Original CSQ waterblock will fit a EVGA 770 ACX?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Finally Finished: Almost Everything EK
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Figured that out just for you @TheCautiousOne


Thank you, And Beautiful Work


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> I placed my order yesterday, so I guess I'll find out soon-ish...
> Since the order is still processing, though, I have a few quick questions:
> 
> - Would any of the adapter fittings on the website fit more comfortably on the block?
> - If so, if I gave you my previous order number and ordered them, and could you merge the orders? I paid for the 1-day shipping on the first package, and it'd be kinda silly to pay again just for 4 fittings...
> 
> Thanks so much for your help!


Are you talking about angled adapters?

Sorry I don't have any access to the ordering process.


----------



## Leyaena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> I placed my order yesterday, so I guess I'll find out soon-ish...
> Since the order is still processing, though, I have a few quick questions:
> 
> - Would any of the adapter fittings on the website fit more comfortably on the block?
> - If so, if I gave you my previous order number and ordered them, and could you merge the orders? I paid for the 1-day shipping on the first package, and it'd be kinda silly to pay again just for 4 fittings...
> 
> Thanks so much for your help!
> 
> 
> 
> Are you talking about angled adapters?
> 
> Sorry I don't have any access to the ordering process.
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking about, yes.
Maybe if the standard fittings are too wide, the angled adapter fittings will be less wide and actually fit on the blocks?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> That's what I was thinking about, yes.
> Maybe if the standard fittings are too wide, the angled adapter fittings will be less wide and actually fit on the blocks?


Yes that would work


----------



## lowfat

Will spam a few pics here too.


----------



## mirablr

Now I received my Ek Supremacy clean CSQ nickel plexi today and when I opened the box I noticed a little area which seems cracked around the screw hole. I did put water in it and so far it's not leaking but I'm still a little worried about putting a block inside of my rig that might cause problems in the long run. Should I rma it ? I'm asking for your opinion on this because I know that this product is discontinued so I won't get the same model back and I'm not really into the EVO version but...better than a leak







. .


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mirablr*
> 
> Now I received my Ek Supremacy clean CSQ nickel plexi today and when I opened the box I noticed a little area which seems cracked around the screw hole. I did put water in it and so far it's not leaking but I'm still a little worried about putting a block inside of my rig that might cause problems in the long run. Should I rma it ? I'm asking for your opinion on this because I know that this product is discontinued so I won't get the same model back and I'm not really into the EVO version but...better than a leak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . .


Was this bought new?

If it's the case, from where?


----------



## mirablr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Was this bought new?
> 
> If it's the case, from where?


Yeah I just got it, everything was legit, box was sealed etc. I bought it from a small-ish computer company in my country, they had it shipped in from some warehouse in Germany I believe. I would have ordered it from EK directly but they discontinued that model.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mirablr*
> 
> Yeah I just got it, everything was legit, box was sealed etc. I bought it from a small-ish computer company in my country, they had it shipped in from some warehouse in Germany I believe. I would have ordered it from EK directly but they discontinued that model.


This is really unfortunate.









I suggest you to submit a ticket on the EK website here


----------



## mirablr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> This is really unfortunate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you to submit a ticket on the EK website here


.
Well, no one to blame either. Anyways thanks for your help


----------



## Leyaena

Akira is our very own EKWB all-star









I assume the shipping department was a bit backlogged today, due to the extra work from thursday and friday last week?
Placed that order for the gpu-blocks yesterday, but it's still processing for now. No rush though, I totally understand.


----------



## kichimou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> Akira is our very own EKWB all-star
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I assume the shipping department was a bit backlogged today, due to the extra work from thursday and friday last week?
> Placed that order for the gpu-blocks yesterday, but it's still processing for now. No rush though, I totally understand.


Monday 8 and wednesday 10 here with express 1d delivery , and still not shipped :/
(2 backplates and an EK Terminal everything in stock)


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Ceadderman

Is that DDR4?









~Ceadder


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Is that DDR4?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Indeed


----------



## Jakusonfire

I love the monarch adaptors so much that I nearly just left the memory water block off









Then I figured I had bought it so why not use it

Edit: only with black pcb sticks like the vengeance pro I got though. Can't wait till green pcb anything's are consigned to history.


----------



## TONSCHUH

I have a big job ahead:



I will extend my "EK-KIT H3O 240 HFX".

Fingers crossed that everything goes well.


----------



## REAPER XD

I will join in! Everything in my loop including the rigid tubing and fittings are from EK! I'm using the EK Supremacy EVO Plexi Nickel CPU block, The EK Monarch X4 RAM block, The EK X3 250 reservoir, 360mm + 240mm EK CoolStream PE radiators, an EK D5 pump w/ X-TOP CSQ Plexi (polished to clear) and finally EK Ekoolant Pastel White Dye, which has the same formula as Mayhems.



Picture was taking from my iPhone 5 while the camera was charging, so excuse that. Not bad for a first timer


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *REAPER XD*
> 
> I will join in! Everything in my loop including the rigid tubing and fittings are from EK! I'm using the EK Supremacy EVO Plexi Nickel CPU block, The EK Monarch X4 RAM block, The EK X3 250 reservoir, 360mm + 240mm EK CoolStream PE radiators, an EK D5 pump w/ X-TOP CSQ Plexi (polished to clear) and finally EK Ekoolant Pastel White Dye, which has the same formula as Mayhems.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture was taking from my iPhone 5 while the camera was charging, so excuse that. Not bad for a first timer


Nice job! You have some tricky bends that you handled very well!


----------



## REAPER XD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Nice job! You have some tricky bends that you handled very well!


Thank you very much!







Yea I wanted to have that angled theme around the CPU area instead of the easy way. Planning on getting some metal cut to finally custom mount the HDD and SSD next to the res, and cut the side window.


----------



## iBored

@akira749 I just replaced the thermal pads on my monarch modules to a set of 1mm and 0.5mm pads. Worked! Thank you very much!

Once again, awesome EK rep is awesome









Edit: Crap. Think I stripped the threads of the monarch module. Two of the screws aren't staying in.


----------



## Leyaena

Akira, I know before that you said you didn't have access to the shipping system, but are you at all able to see when a shipment is due to be processed?

I placed an order on Sunday, and took 1-day shipping because after Friday I wouldn't have easy access to the address it was being shipped to anymore...

So far my order hasn't been processed yet, though. Since even with the one-day shipping the deadline for that Friday delivery is getting pretty close, I'm starting to get a little bit worried.

Is this something you could look into, or am I better off sending a support ticket?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> @akira749 I just replaced the thermal pads on my monarch modules to a set of 1mm and 0.5mm pads. Worked! Thank you very much!
> 
> Once again, awesome EK rep is awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Crap. Think I stripped the threads of the monarch module. Two of the screws aren't staying in.


Cool about the pads









Damn about the stripped thread









Is it the screw or the hole in the module itself that seems to be stripped?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> Akira, I know before that you said you didn't have access to the shipping system, but are you at all able to see when a shipment is due to be processed?
> 
> I placed an order on Sunday, and took 1-day shipping because after Friday I wouldn't have easy access to the address it was being shipped to anymore...
> 
> So far my order hasn't been processed yet, though. Since even with the one-day shipping the deadline for that Friday delivery is getting pretty close, I'm starting to get a little bit worried.
> 
> Is this something you could look into, or am I better off sending a support ticket?


No I don't have any way to see this sorry.

But if you open a ticket you might have the possibility to change the shipping address and they might also be able to let you know when is your order expect to be shipped.


----------



## lowfat

So who updates the Facebook page? It has been kind of boring lately. There use to be lots of rigs posted but not so much anymore.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Cool about the pads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn about the stripped thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it the screw or the hole in the module itself that seems to be stripped?


I think it's the module.
Solved it with a rather ghetto solution - caselabs m3 screws. They are slightly longer so it catches on the deep end of the threads. Kinda ugly, but you can't see it once the ram block is on so... Obligatory EK blocks pictures?





I'm kinda glad I went with all acetal.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I think it's the module.
> Solved it with a rather ghetto solution - caselabs m3 screws. They are slightly longer so it catches on the deep end of the threads. Kinda ugly, but you can't see it once the ram block is on so... Obligatory EK blocks pictures?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm kinda glad I went with all acetal.


Makes me want to waste my money into watercooling once again







I do admit clean acetal just look so good. I wish EK would do a "passive" block for the chipset thought, like they did on another board (MSI? I don't remember).

Maybe @akira749 can ask EK for that. Shouldn't cost that much to produce and is relatively simple to design. Please EK, consider that.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*


Is it just me but with the lights on that build comes to life without the it's still nice but the fluids look dull. Nice build


----------



## szeged

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



use spoilers.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is it just me but with the lights on that build comes to life without the it's still nice but the fluids look dull. Nice build


It is because he needs more light in his photographs.


----------



## emsj86

joining the club ek cpu and gpu blocks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> use spoilers.


Correct

@emsj86


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *REAPER XD*
> 
> I will join in! Everything in my loop including the rigid tubing and fittings are from EK! I'm using the EK Supremacy EVO Plexi Nickel CPU block, The EK Monarch X4 RAM block, The EK X3 250 reservoir, 360mm + 240mm EK CoolStream PE radiators, an EK D5 pump w/ X-TOP CSQ Plexi (polished to clear) and finally EK Ekoolant Pastel White Dye, which has the same formula as Mayhems.
> 
> 
> 
> Picture was taking from my iPhone 5 while the camera was charging, so excuse that. Not bad for a first timer


I see that you have the aercool DS 120 fans... How do you like them? Quiet at low RPM's? I want to pick up 7 for my 360mm and 2 240mm rads


----------



## Pheozero

Would anyone happen to have pictures of an acetal gpu block with a single plexi replacement terminal?


----------



## Benjiw

Hello everyone, could I inquire how most people polish the matte finish on CSQ designed plexi so that it is pretty much crystal clear?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Hello everyone, could I inquire how most people polish the matte finish on CSQ designed plexi so that it is pretty much crystal clear?


Lowfats Polishing GUide

The Cautious ONe


----------



## REAPER XD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I see that you have the aercool DS 120 fans... How do you like them? Quiet at low RPM's? I want to pick up 7 for my 360mm and 2 240mm rads


At low RPM, 6 of them are INAUDIBLE! At max RPM, it's what you expect, but still extremely quiet compared to other fans. I love them!


----------



## szeged

any plans for a matrix 980 waterblock?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *REAPER XD*
> 
> At low RPM, 6 of them are INAUDIBLE! At max RPM, it's what you expect, but still extremely quiet compared to other fans. I love them!


how is the static pressure on the rads at low rpm? I'm about to spend $100 for 7 of them. Do they rattle at all? I had the corsair sp120, and they were notorious for rattling


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> how is the static pressure on the rads at low rpm? I'm about to spend $100 for 7 of them. Do they rattle at all? I had the corsair sp120, and they were notorious for rattling


I would Have to Disagree with you on this one Steezy. I have all Corsair Sp 120mm Fans for my 360 and 240mm Rads. Most of them actually are only held on by Two screws.

I hear Nothing.

The Cautious One


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I would Have to Disagree with you on this one Steezy. I have all Corsair Sp 120mm Fans for my 360 and 240mm Rads. Most of them actually are only held on by Two screws.
> 
> I hear Nothing.
> 
> The Cautious One


I am going to agree with this as I have the same experience with mine. my rad fans are running at 405 rpm and my case fans are at 321 and I hear nothing as well. Never had any issues with the rattling that was stated earlier. I have all Corsair fans as well.


----------



## sinnedone

Any fan at sub 1000 rpm is quiet, use what you like.( speaking of 120/140mm)

I had 4 sp120's and considering they spent most of the time around 7-900 rpm they were quiet with no issues. Had both the 3 pin and 4 pin pwm versions


----------



## REAPER XD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> how is the static pressure on the rads at low rpm? I'm about to spend $100 for 7 of them. Do they rattle at all? I had the corsair sp120, and they were notorious for rattling


You might have had a bad batch, but no these fans don't rattle. As for static pressure, I chose these because the EK CoolStream PE fin density didn't need as much static pressure, but for the non Canadian/American version I think it's about 1.41.. Don't quote me on it though.


----------



## jsco

Apropos of nothing, here's a picture of the new plexi FC Terminal bridge:

Posting this because I haven't been able to tell from any of the product photos just how frosted or polished the thing is, and haven't seen any build photos surface yet. The answer is that it's not mirror finish, but definitely more on the polished side than the frosted side.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *REAPER XD*
> 
> You might have had a bad batch, but no these fans don't rattle. As for static pressure, I chose these because the EK CoolStream PE fin density didn't need as much static pressure, but for the non Canadian/American version I think it's about 1.41.. Don't quote me on it though.


No, the corsair fans rattle at low RPM's. I went through about 6 RMA's over a 6 month period


----------



## Lavins

I absolutely love the 3-Way Terminal Acrylic Bridge. I think I waited an entire year and a half for it to happen, but it's finally here!



It's absolutely beautiful!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lavins*
> 
> I absolutely love the 3-Way Terminal Acrylic Bridge. I think I waited an entire year and a half for it to happen, but it's finally here!
> 
> 
> 
> It's absolutely beautiful!


That does look good. They sold out here pretty much as soon as they arrived.


----------



## REAPER XD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lavins*
> 
> I absolutely love the 3-Way Terminal Acrylic Bridge. I think I waited an entire year and a half for it to happen, but it's finally here!
> 
> 
> 
> It's absolutely beautiful!


Wow.. Looks amazing! Which GPUs are they?


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *REAPER XD*
> 
> Wow.. Looks amazing! Which GPUs are they?


780 Classified KPE.


----------



## King4x4

Just ordered the same bridge for my Quadfire(soon to be trifire) setup.


----------



## Vindicare

that bridge!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> any plans for a matrix 980 waterblock?


No current plans for it.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No current plans for it.


well...make some plans!


----------



## jsco

aha! a wild build photo appears!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lavins*
> 
> It's absolutely beautiful!


i can't disagree.


----------



## King4x4

EK-Vardar fans are on EK shop now!


----------



## szeged

one of my ap-15s is making a horrible squeeling sound, maybe its time to try a new fan....or go to coolerguys and get a replacement gt.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

corsair sp120s are just wildly ineffiecient. there are much better fans that run about the same and dont sound so terrible.

ek shouldmake a 140mm version of the varder. it would change EVERYTHING

I went against the acrylic bridge because I am only doing dual and the plexu was ten dollars more


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> well...make some plans!


I didn't say they won't be planning it. But currently no...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> ek shouldmake a 140mm version of the varder. it would change EVERYTHING


The 140mm version should be available around february 2015


----------



## tatmMRKIV

oh damn I thought I had misread that there were plans for a 140mm.
Thanks for your quick response BTW


----------



## Leyaena

There are plans for it, it'll be available next February.

The "no current plans" referred to the matrix 980 waterblock szeged was asking about


----------



## tatmMRKIV

i know....


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> EK-Vardar fans are on EK shop now!


They look awesome


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> They look awesome


but it needs some A1 sauce


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> but it needs some A1 sauce


Oh lord, is this what I've done to myself ...


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Oh lord, is this what I've done to myself ...


haha, use some chilli sauce if its the new hot product









it can be your new way of reviewing stuff?









maybe use some horseradish or mustard if it aint cutting it


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Oh lord, is this what I've done to myself ...


lol you asked for it when you put it up on social media.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol you asked for it when you put it up on social media.


Indeed, you reap what you sow...









At least the whole EK Supremacy Cocaine thing went away... no requests for other computer products stylized with fake drugs


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> any plans for a matrix 980 waterblock?
> 
> 
> 
> No current plans for it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> well...make some plans!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I didn't say they won't be planning it. But currently no...
Click to expand...

Well, the gods of EK's heard your voice and they said "There will be a block for the 980 Matrix"









But before you ask....ETA is : Soon™


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Indeed, you reap what you sow...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least the whole EK Supremacy Cocaine thing went away... no requests for other computer products stylized with fake drugs


Ugh I had almost forgotten about that. Seems so long ago now too!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Well, the gods of EK's heard your voice and they said "There will be a block for the 980 Matrix"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But before you ask....ETA is : Soon™


Nice....

Now why can't you make asrock OCF waterblocks?

Bitspower did it even a fullcover.

jk dont bother no one is going to watercool that board but me.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Well, the gods of EK's heard your voice and they said "There will be a block for the 980 Matrix"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But before you ask....ETA is : Soon™


how Soon™ ?

you didnt answer that one


----------



## Archea47

We're white acrylic blocks ever made for the 290X?

I was thinking of using another brand but saw the white on another card earlier in this thread - I'd have to buy that


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> We're white acrylic blocks ever made for the 290X?
> 
> I was thinking of using another brand but saw the white on another card earlier in this thread - I'd have to buy that


Nope. Only made for the HoF.


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Well, the gods of EK's heard your voice and they said "There will be a block for the 980 Matrix"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But before you ask....ETA is : Soon™


and still no block for a 970 EVGA ? (the regular one , not the shor one) ... but we have the MSI one and the Gigabyte one >.>

Priorities!!! please ;_; ( is there a deal or something with EVGA to only sell the block bundled with the 970 in the near future , thats why u guys are stacking up those blocks ?)

... just guessing lol


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> and still no block for a 970 EVGA ? (the regular one , not the shor one) ... but we have the MSI one and the Gigabyte one >.>
> 
> Priorities!!! please ;_; ( is there a deal or something with EVGA to only sell the block bundled with the 970 in the near future , thats why u guys are stacking up those blocks ?)
> 
> ... just guessing lol


The non-reference EVGA 970 block are in the work.


----------



## Ceadderman

Glad I am AMD.









~Ceadder


----------



## TONSCHUH

My EK-Loop-Extension is finally finished, but I'm not building for a perfectly good looks:






















GPU-Temp's are now 35C max under full load.


----------



## DeXel

Just FYI tests have shown 2 sandwiched rads perform worse than a single rad.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/06/08/hesmelaughs-radiator-sandwich-testing/


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Just FYI tests have shown 2 sandwiched rads perform worse than a single rad.


Thanks for the Info !

But I have just not enough space atm, to do it differently and I thought that a "push - pull + push - pull" - setup would be fine:


----------



## sinnedone

sinnedone edition R9 290 EK "FULL" blocks.









http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/DSC00204_zpse70798e2.jpg.html
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/DSC002002_zps39fb5be1.jpg.html
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/DSC001992_zps26295f90.jpg.html
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/DSC00206_zpsdf7af31e.jpg.html
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/DSC00208_zpscf5dd223.jpg.html


----------



## Ceadderman

That's Sharp!









~Ceadder


----------



## Sir Beregond

Just got home and opened my FrozenCPU package.

The EK Supremacy EVO Gold is more beautiful than I imagined.









This is going to look awesome with my black tubing and gold monsoon fittings. Pics to come.

Really wishing it was about 10 days from now so that I had all my parts and could start my build.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> sinnedone edition R9 290 EK "FULL" blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/DSC00206_zpsdf7af31e.jpg.html


Amazing!!!!







EKWB please take notes!


----------



## iBored

Dear EK,

Just realized one of the screw holes on my dual pump top is off. You can see from the picture it's quite off.


Can you guarantee that with that one screw off it won't leak? If not I'll have to ask for a replacement.









Edit: Ticket submitted. I do hope I can get a replacement and at the same time order the 970 g1 blocks.









Edit 2: Solved thanks to @Jakusonfire







you're right. The mounting bracket fits after rotating it 180 deg. Didn't realise the intentional "misalignment".


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Dear EK,
> 
> Just realized one of the screw holes on my dual pump top is off. You can see from the picture it's quite off.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guarantee that with that one screw off it won't leak? If not I'll have to ask for a replacement.


Edit 2: Yeah, I'm sure you are putting the pump lock plate on incorrectly. That screw is the one that is deliberately misaligned compared to the others, so that it does not hit the outlet port. Spin it 180 degrees and they will line up.

Edit: Although on second thought. I am looking at mine and I don't believe it is in the wrong place. Maybe your pump lock plate is drilled wrong? Or you are putting it on back to front.[/S]

Oh no. I've seen that happen before. I'm sure it would still work fine but why take the risk and have a unit with no resale value if you want to change later. Just hit up support and they will fix it up.


----------



## smicha

I have the same dual top - it is not symmetrical. Look carefully when you assemble it.


----------



## Archea47

[Nevermind!]


----------



## FrancisJF

When is EK-Vardar gonna hit U.S. retailers? And who will have it in stock first?


----------



## hiarc

PPCs already has all flavors in stock, it is the only place I have seen them so far.


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> PPCs already has all flavors in stock, it is the only place I have seen them so far.


Prices are cheaper but their shipping prices are ridiculously high.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Love these rads


----------



## REAPER XD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Love these rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Agreed. I run a 360 and a 240 and they're golden.


----------



## Vindicare

Does someone know if the 360 version fits the front of the Corsair 780T?


----------



## Rahldrac

I have a ek xres dcp 4-0 pwm incl pump , and will install it some time after Christmas. It has a molex (with 2 pins) and a 4 pin which I guess is for PWM controll.

So I wonder, do you install both? So power from the Molex and 4 pin for PWM control? Or just one like with fans? I guess a pump needs a bit more electricity than fans?


----------



## Newtocooling

Akira have you been able to get your hands on the new Vardar Fans yet? I'm just wondering how hard they will be to take apart to paint and clean when needed.


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I have a ek xres dcp 4-0 pwm incl pump , and will install it some time after Christmas. It has a molex (with 2 pins) and a 4 pin which I guess is for PWM controll.
> 
> So I wonder, do you install both? So power from the Molex and 4 pin for PWM control? Or just one like with fans? I guess a pump needs a bit more electricity than fans?


Connect both, Molex with two pins is for power, and the 4-pin is for rpm and pwm.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Hey folks, anyone know how the best way to mount an upright EK-D5 Vario X-RES 140 to the bottom of a case without a fan? I don't mind drilling holes into the bottom of my case. To use the EK-UNI Pump Holder I will have to also purchase the EK-UNI Holder D5 V2. However, this appears to only allow me to mount the pump and res horizontally while I want it to be a vertical unit. Am I misunderstanding the pictures?

Essentially, I would like a bottom-mounted vertical EK D5 pump and top with a 250 or a 140 (wish they made a 200) reservoir that doesn't extend longer than 320mm in total including brackets. Any thoughts? I basically want this, but with EK products to keep the cost down. This looks like the type of thing I'm after, however I think it might be custom made.



This is the build I'm going to be trying to emulate:


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Akira have you been able to get your hands on the new Vardar Fans yet? I'm just wondering how hard they will be to take apart to paint and clean when needed.


No sorry

Since I wasn't needing any fans for my upcoming builds, I wasn't able to justify buying them for now. But I have a build that will require 140mm fans so I might try to 140 version when it becomes available in 2015.


----------



## iBored

PWM pump not working! Must the 4pin pwm connector be connected for it to work?


----------



## Leyaena

which pump?
Always plugged mine in, so it's definitely with trying to see whether it'll work


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> PWM pump not working! Must the 4pin pwm connector be connected for it to work?


What pump?

PWM D5 should run @ 65% if RPM/PWM wire is not connected. PWM DDC will run @ 100% if RPM/PWM not connected.


----------



## iBored

Its one of EK's new D5 PWM pump/res combo.
I ran a stock cable to connect up a fan to test and it runs without the pump connected.
When I connect the pump, my RM850 turns on with the click, connected fan spins for a few secs and stops, and the pump doesn't work.


----------



## lowfat

The 12V and ground are wired correctly and not backwards?


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> PWM pump not working! Must the 4pin pwm connector be connected for it to work?


Yes. Without PWN signal it will work but at very low RPM


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Its one of EK's new D5 PWM pump/res combo.
> I ran a stock cable to connect up a fan to test and it runs without the pump connected.
> When I connect the pump, my RM850 turns on with the click, connected fan spins for a few secs and stops, and the pump doesn't work.


Yeah, The PWM D5's will not run if they are connected and getting no PWM signal or a zero PWM signal. Its different to simply not being connected.

ITDiva has talked about it a bunch of times.

Unless you mean it isn't turning when the PWM connector isn't connected? That may be something to do with the PSU and over voltage or surge protection.


----------



## VSG

I thought they run at 60% if the PWM cable isn't connected?


----------



## iBored

Problem sort of solved. Unplugged my custom drive cable and everything is running now. Good Lord my loop is gonna take forever to bleed.

Edit: oh yes, tested: if the motherboard is not powered, connecting the pwm onto a header will not run the pump.


----------



## smicha

I had the same problem with PWM EK pump. If you can - plug your pump to your motherboard, power it up and set PWM to max.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> Any news on Nickel 970 Gigabyte G1 Gaming backplates?
> 
> 
> 
> I asked your question and they told me that there will only be one version. Either the Acetal-Nickel or the Plexi-Nickel. They haven't decide yet.
> Unfortunately there won't be any Nickel backplates for the non-reference blocks that were recently released. Only the black versions.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ahh damn that sucks, thanks a lot for the info though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> least I can grab the Black ones
Click to expand...

Hi,

Sorry about what i'm about to tell you but EK decided to release the Nickel Backplates for the non-reference blocks.

Sorry about that, I feel like a fool.


----------



## szeged

Not your fault akira. Soooo about them classy and matrix blocks


----------



## Leyaena

om nom classy blocks!








Last I heard was January, do you have any info wether it'll be the first half or the second half?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Not your fault akira. Soooo about them classy and matrix blocks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> om nom classy blocks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last I heard was January, do you have any info wether it'll be the first half or the second half?


All I can say is that both blocks (classy and matrix) are currently in the work but for the ETA we have to wait since I don't know if it will be first or second half


----------



## Leyaena

Since I just got some universal blocks, I guess I'm in less of a rush now









I honestly forgot how hot and/or noisy air cooled gpu's got, though.

Watercooling all the way!

And I guess when the classy blocks come out, I will have an excuse to order some of those vardar fans to experiment with ^^


----------



## Archea47

I'm thinking of replacing my Supremacy CPU block with a Supremacy EVO

Has there been any informative third party performance assessments between the two? Anyone here done the upgrade and have data?

Also I like the looks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I'm thinking of replacing my Supremacy CPU block with a Supremacy EVO
> 
> Has there been any informative third party performance assessments between the two? Anyone here done the upgrade and have data?
> 
> Also I like the looks


I believe the consensus is that there is a 2-3c Difference in the Two.

The Cautious One

VSG Review


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I believe the consensus is that there is a 2-3c Difference in the Two.
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> VSG Review


Thanks for the info and link!

2-3*C is a big deal for me - I'm sold


----------



## VSG

I never had the original Supremacy to compare against though. You want to look at Stren's review on his website and Moonman's roundup here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014/0_50


----------



## Archea47

Is there any performance implication of Full Copper vs Plexi?

I like Plexi for being able to see inside it but more conducting copper should act as a better heatsink for temp spikes


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Is there any performance implication of Full Copper vs Plexi?
> 
> I like Plexi for being able to see inside it but more conducting copper should act as a better heatsink for temp spikes


Non, the copper on the block doesn't have that big of an effect.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thanks for the info and link!
> 
> 2-3*C is a big deal for me - I'm sold


Glad It helped. Mr VSG is quite the God at reviews, and as he Added about Mr. Stren's review is quite in depth as well..

And btw, for anyone that could help me out, how in your siggy, instead of spoiler do you make it say clubs for the drop down?

The Cautious One


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Glad It helped. Mr VSG is quite the God at reviews, and as he Added about Mr. Stren's review is quite in depth as well..
> 
> And btw, for anyone that could help me out, how in your siggy, instead of spoiler do you make it say clubs for the drop down?
> 
> The Cautious One


And thank you sir, +rep and I bought the EVO Plexi

As to the signature:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> And thank you sir, +rep and I bought the EVO Plexi
> 
> As to the signature:


HEY!! That's great. Ek really does make a fine block









Can you link me to the page that has the link for the Siggy? I am gathering that you are not modding the Spoiler option?

The Cautious One

PS: Thanks for the Rep







That's all I wanted for Christmas.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Glad It helped. Mr VSG is quite the God at reviews, and as he Added about Mr. Stren's review is quite in depth as well..
> 
> And btw, for anyone that could help me out, how in your siggy, instead of spoiler do you make it say clubs for the drop down?
> 
> The Cautious One


Undeserved praise there. I am humbled by the words but guys like Martin and Stren have done this for longer and earned the respect properly. I am just a guy like you who likes tinkering with things and lucky enough to have access to some equipment that's all. Anyway it's off topic here.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Undeserved praise there. I am humbled by the words but guys like Martin and Stren have done this for longer and earned the respect properly. I am just a guy like you who likes tinkering with things and lucky enough to have access to some equipment that's all. Anyway it's off topic here.




As I write your reply







Just Saying. I do hope everyone has a great christmas and with the cash (That we hopefully all get) we can obtain some much Needed Parts for our builds rolling into the New Year.









Especially Some more Ek Parts









The Cautious One


----------



## Malpractis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Sorry about what i'm about to tell you but EK decided to release the Nickel Backplates for the non-reference blocks.
> 
> Sorry about that, I feel like a fool.


No worries not your fault








My black ones only just got sent from a "local" store, so I should be able to swap them for the nickel's anyway


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> All I can say is that both blocks (classy and matrix) are currently in the work but for the ETA we have to wait since I don't know if it will be first or second half


What about the msi 980 gaming g4 blocks?


----------



## Ragsters

Since the old mono block for the MSI z97i gaming board was cancelled will a new one be made for the revision (ACK)?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> No worries not your fault
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My black ones only just got sent from a "local" store, so I should be able to swap them for the nickel's anyway












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> What about the msi 980 gaming g4 blocks?


In the work too


----------



## iBored

Backdating on my build log and I thought I'd share this picture








I kinda prefer the shot with the window panel blurring it.


----------



## Nichismo

Finally got a better camera now that Christmas is over









Still learning it a bit though, however ive finally got some better pics of the rig....


----------



## ALT F4

Some EK parts being put to use


----------



## Diffident

My first EK block, EK-FC970 GTX WF3 for my GTX 970 G1.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



IMG_20141227_080821.jpg 1405k .jpg file




I was so eager to install it, I didn't take a pic before I put it in.


----------



## Mefke

Hi everyone

I have a quick question about my EK supremacy,it has some cracks at the start of the threads.

The cracks are only on the surface now,just tested it and it does not leak.

Has been used for a little over 1 year,with EK 90degree fittings/coolant,over tightened maybe?

Risk it or replace it?



Sorry,could not get a better picture.

Some shots of my custom aluminium ITX box ala Parvum,the end is near. Almost ready to join the club.











Thank you in advance.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mefke*
> 
> Hi everyone
> 
> I have a quick question about my EK supremacy,it has some cracks at the start of the threads.
> 
> The cracks are only on the surface now,just tested it and it does not leak.
> 
> Has been used for a little over 1 year,with EK 90degree fittings/coolant,over tightened maybe?
> 
> Risk it or replace it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry,could not get a better picture.
> 
> Thank you in advance.


Wow this is wierd! As of today I had never heard anything about possible small cracks on plexi tops over time before.

And this morning on another forum someone expressed a concern in he's CPU block choice and the possibility of over time cracking. I asking him where he saw and read that and he linked me a post of someone with an HF Supreme with the little cracks around the port holes. And now you have the same experience!!!

Unfortunately, I don't know if it's safe or not to use it as it is but since you tested it and it's leak-free you might give it it a try.


----------



## Vindicare

did you tight the fittings on the block by hand?


----------



## Lavins

I have a similar block but I bought it used and the previous owner stated he tightened his by hand and the cracks were in the same spots. Not to mention it now leaks. I'm not sure what it is about these tops, but I'm afraid to use them. :[


----------



## lowfat

Ever acrylic CPU block I've owned has had micro fractures around the fittings. Never use tools to tighing the fittings. Try not to have to much force put on the fittings from tight bends, etc. You can repair most of the fractures w/ a heatgun. Just heat the area up and most of the fractures will seal up on their own. Not all of them but most. You also need to be careful not to overheat though. You could warp the top and fittings will never fit again. When I heat mine up I like to keep a fitting handy to thread in while it is warm still.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mefke*
> 
> Hi everyone
> 
> I have a quick question about my EK supremacy,it has some cracks at the start of the threads.
> 
> The cracks are only on the surface now,just tested it and it does not leak.
> 
> Has been used for a little over 1 year,with EK 90degree fittings/coolant,over tightened maybe?
> 
> Risk it or replace it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry,could not get a better picture.
> 
> Thank you in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> Wow this is wierd! As of today I had never heard anything about possible small cracks on plexi tops over time before.
> 
> And this morning on another forum someone expressed a concern in he's CPU block choice and the possibility of over time cracking. I asking him where he saw and read that and he linked me a post of someone with an HF Supreme with the little cracks around the port holes. And now you have the same experience!!!
> 
> Unfortunately, I don't know if it's safe or not to use it as it is but since you tested it and it's leak-free you might give it it a try.
Click to expand...

My Supreme HF has a bunch of micro fractures on it around the inlet and outlet, just from over tightening fittings on my part I believe. Doesn't leak or anything and you can't see them very well but they're still there.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Faster_is_better

I have a quick question, are the EK gpu blocks (R9 290 to be specific) single slot?

I have an old sound card that can't be moved since it is PCI, and the 2nd best PCI Express slot is directly above it, where a 2nd watercooled gpu needs to go.

EDIT: Nevermind, I guess the pci cover slots will still be 2x tall even if the block only takes 1 slot.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

So what about the gigabyte champion?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> So what about the gigabyte champion?


same thing as the x99 SOC but with the overclocking socket


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> EDIT: Nevermind, I guess the pci cover slots will still be 2x tall even if the block only takes 1 slot.


I believe that the 280X can be used with a single slot adapter that is available from EK if I remember correctly. Not quite as good but it would work if you have to.

EDIT: link http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vga-i-o-bracket-hd7970.html


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> same thing as the x99 SOC but with the overclocking socket


i thought it might come with blocks for dimm v reg modules


----------



## szeged

oh, well maybe, idk


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Thats y i thought id ask. Especially since they came out with regular soc force so quickly. Also i havent had a chance to compare them side by side, so if that really is the only difference then coolio


----------



## AcidNfection

Hello all! Anyone familiar with this kit? EK-KIT X360. I need a new water cooling kit or custom loop for a new build and came across this one. Would it be worth buying? I will be cooling CPU for now and later on GPU and possibly RAM (just for the looks). Thanks for the help! ^^

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-x360.html


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> Hello all! Anyone familiar with this kit? EK-KIT X360. I need a new water cooling kit or custom loop for a new build and came across this one. Would it be worth buying? I will be cooling CPU for now and later on GPU and possibly RAM (just for the looks). Thanks for the help! ^^
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-x360.html


Sure it would be. The X kits are fairly new and they are pricey but also the highest quality kits available. No cheap and nasty parts in them like some other lower priced kits. Very expandable too with a good radiator and excellent pump that will handle anything you want to add later.

There is a bazillion different ways to go, picking all your own parts to suit the particular look or price you want, but if you don't want to do that kits are good. Or just use it as a guide for the different parts you will need.


----------



## AcidNfection

Great! Thanks for the quick answer and info! I will go ahead and order this one and give it a go. Will report back once I have received it and have it all together


----------



## TheCautiousOne

IS there a way to accomplish this?




I know its a rough sketch but i can't find the Picture I am referencing anywhere. I do not want a strait line of tubing. I would like it to come outward toward the Window of the case and then use the very bottom ports of the bottom card to go strait to the floor of the bottom divider.

The Cautious ONe

EDIT: I feel ridiculous after drawing this, but I actually had a dream I found the Picture I am referencing the other night.


----------



## iBored

Guys, I'm using the aqc D5 pump with the EK dual D5 pump top.
Have a little problem with clearance for the aquabus connections.
Does anyone know if this spacer can be used?
LINK


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> Hello all! Anyone familiar with this kit? EK-KIT X360. I need a new water cooling kit or custom loop for a new build and came across this one. Would it be worth buying? I will be cooling CPU for now and later on GPU and possibly RAM (just for the looks). Thanks for the help! ^^
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-x360.html


I started with an earlier/different iteration of that kit. The only real difference is that my kit came with a DCP instead of o DDC, and a non-evo block. Neither of which would account for a measurable difference. It is a great kit, that rad is beastly, and kept my 3570k @ 5.0 and an overclocked 7970 tamed no problem. The included fans are pretty quiet, and appropriately selected for the rad. I would snatch that thing up in a heartbeat. Its good to start with top notch components that you will be happy with, and that will not need replacing when the inevitable expansion occurs.

Yeah, its pricey, and there is better performance\dollar options. But you cant really buy a better performing start kit, they just don't exist.


----------



## marshymellows

Hi, i just filled my loop and i have this big bouble, any suggestions on how to get rid of it?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Hi, i just filled my loop and i have this big bouble, any suggestions on how to get rid of it?


Tried tipping the case at all?

The Cautious One


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Tried tipping the case at all?
> 
> The Cautious One


I have, got some out, but dont know how far i want to tip it. have also been powercycleing


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> IS there a way to accomplish this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know its a rough sketch but i can't find the Picture I am referencing anywhere. I do not want a strait line of tubing. I would like it to come outward toward the Window of the case and then use the very bottom ports of the bottom card to go strait to the floor of the bottom divider.
> 
> The Cautious ONe
> 
> EDIT: I feel ridiculous after drawing this, but I actually had a dream I found the Picture I am referencing the other night.


Well, it can be done if the pic of the GPU connector a little back in the thread exists. Your artistic representation is obviously Parallel and it can be run just fine in that mock-up.









~Ceadder :drink


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well, it can be done if the pic of the GPU connector a little back in the thread exists. Your artistic representation is obviously Parallel and it can be run just fine in that mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink


Thats what im talking about!! I am ready to get this thing up and running.

THe Cautious ONe


----------



## ilovehamwallets

HI, NEW TO THIS THREAD, BUT WAS WONDERING WHETHER ANYONE COULD TELL ME WHY WHEN I ORDERED THE BLOCKS FOR MY HD7970 MATRIX PLATINUM'S, THE ONE I ORDERED FROM EK DIRECT CAME WITH THE BACK PLATE TO REDUCE IT FROM 3 SPACES TO 2 AND THE ONE I GOT FROM C&C DIDN'T HAVE IT.

CHEERS KEV


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> I have, got some out, but dont know how far i want to tip it. have also been powercycleing


Just keep tipping it but make sure your pump feed or res outlet, whatever you call it, is still receiving coolant or it will run dry for obvious reasons. Keep on tipping until it's all gone.


----------



## Nichismo

would anyone be able to edit an EK logo into this? perhaps into one of the corners for me?


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> I have, got some out, but dont know how far i want to tip it. have also been powercycleing


Try turning it almost full on its side? You should see with a 45 degree tip if the bubble moves around at all. I'm sure you've tried a more than a few ways but if you haven't turned it fully to either side then I would consider!


----------



## REAPER XD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> would anyone be able to edit an EK logo into this? perhaps into one of the corners for me?


http://puu.sh/dQ38d/e27d7b541c.png


----------



## ssamhouu

That is impressive!


----------



## marshymellows

I need some help. I just finished leak testning and decided to complete the build by connecting everything. But i have a small problem, when the pumps rpm connector is connected to the cpu fanns header it wont go on(or spins at a really low speed)but as fast as i unplug it is turns on. Is that normal?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> I need some help. I just finished leak testning and decided to complete the build by connecting everything. But i have a small problem, when the pumps rpm connector is connected to the cpu fanns header it wont go on(or spins at a really low speed)but as fast as i unplug it is turns on. Is that normal?


Yes.


----------



## marshymellows

So i just noticed that i can change the rpm on the pump with ai suite 3 and i was wondering if 2000(ish) rpms is enough to have good flow in water cooled pc with a cpu block, gpu and 2 rads(one 240 and one 120)?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> So i just noticed that i can change the rpm on the pump with ai suite 3 and i was wondering if 2000(ish) rpms is enough to have good flow in water cooled pc with a cpu block, gpu and 2 rads(one 240 and one 120)?


Type of Pump?

The Cautious One


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Type of Pump?
> 
> The Cautious One


ek's ddc


----------



## snef

I set mine @ 20% 1300rpm and never have any issue, but go higher if coolant temp go high


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I set mine @ 20% 1300rpm and never have any issue, but go higher if coolant temp go high


i'll keep an eye on me temps and see what happens


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> i'll keep an eye on me temps and see what happens


My Suggestion would have been just that. Open up like realtemp, Hwmonitor, and change your percentage until you see fit.

The Cautious One


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> My Suggestion would have been just that. Open up like realtemp, Hwmonitor, and change your percentage until you see fit.
> 
> The Cautious One


im laying in the 35(ish) now when playing lol so im quite happy


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I set mine @ 20% 1300rpm and never have any issue, but go higher if coolant temp go high


What's your flow rate at this rpm?


----------



## snef

to be honest, I don't know, my temp are good, what ever is the flow,
temps are the important things no?

I had an issue in one of my other build

I remember have 0.2gpm and my temp was same or 1c higher than when i hade 1.8gpm on cpu
and never go higher than 55c on both GPU

i seriously think the flow is very overrated, no, im sure its overrated

look this video you will see my 0.2gpm


----------



## VSG

0.2 GPM is more or less laminar flow in rads. I would be surprised if performance was just 1 ºC higher


----------



## snef

not sure about 0.2, I estimated it, look at video , its no so much and temp was the same or just around 1c more on cpu


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> not sure about 0.2, I estimated it, look at video , its no so much and temp was the same or just around 1c more on cpu


Can someone show me a pic of Adjusting the % of the Pump in BIOS or Software for reference? I have the two DDC's waiting for my SMA8 and would like to prep for this.

THe Cautious One.

I could do multiple test at different percentages to compare.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Can someone show me a pic of Adjusting the % of the Pump in BIOS or Software for reference? I have the two DDC's waiting for my SMA8 and would like to prep for this.
> 
> THe Cautious One.
> 
> I could do multiple test at different percentages to compare.


If you use a asus motherboard with ai suite you just need to plug the pump connector to the cpu header and then run the fan setup. After that you should be able to change the procentage to your liking


----------



## snef

for sure you need the PWM verion of the pump to be able to set the speed,


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> for sure you need the PWM verion of the pump to be able to set the speed,




Got the PMW Pumps from Sidewindercomputers. Just wondering since I have two, should I use a y splitter or hook them up to two different headers on the Rampage V. In which case I would be able to change speeds in the BIOS or from some sort of software in windows?

THe Cautious One


----------



## snef

use a splitter on CPU header or not sure but I think you can use the Opt cpu header for the second pump

so nice polish on pump top


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Got the PMW Pumps from Sidewindercomputers. Just wondering since I have two, should I use a y splitter or hook them up to two different headers on the Rampage V. In which case I would be able to change speeds in the BIOS or from some sort of software in windows?
> 
> THe Cautious One


I'd use to separate headers so you get the most accurarte reading from the pumps.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Just as a quick test I set pump speed to as low as it would go which gave me 1.4 LPM or 0.36 GPM and ran furmark

The graphing is a little jagged because the software sensors only report whole degrees and if its in the middle it wavers between two values. There is a pretty clear jump of 3-4 degrees either way as flow increases and decreases. That isn't earth shattering of course.

I would think it would be difficult to actually get down to 0.2 GPM because the restriction is so very low at that flow and pumps have a min speed.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> use a splitter on CPU header or not sure but I think you can use the Opt cpu header for the second pump
> 
> so nice polish on pump top


Im a little Embarrassed because I didn't have a heat gun to take the badges off. I will redeem myself after all my supplies are ready for the build though. I will see what I can do about running the pumps off of different headers.

THe Cautious One


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> i seriously think the flow is very overrated, no, im sure its overrated


Agreed. I've ran my a 2 block + 2 radiator look w/ a DDC PWM @ 1200rpm and never had an issue. Increasing to full speed resulted in a whopping 3-4 degree increase in temperatures.Which is negligible in terms of stability.


----------



## deeph

Hi,

I just have my pc watercooled with 2 rads, one 240 (top), two 360 (front), MB block, cpu block, gpu block and DCP 2.2 pump.

I also installed flow indicator and the inserts. It looks spin/flow with no problem, but then I'm not sure.

The cpu temp when idle is on 35c (AMD FX9590).

My questions are,
- Can I get lower temp with more powerful pump?
- Does my pump strong enough to rotate the liquid?

deeph


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> to be honest, I don't know, my temp are good, what ever is the flow,
> temps are the important things no?
> 
> I had an issue in one of my other build
> 
> I remember have 0.2gpm and my temp was same or 1c higher than when i hade 1.8gpm on cpu
> and never go higher than 55c on both GPU
> 
> i seriously think the flow is very overrated, no, im sure its overrated
> 
> look this video you will see my 0.2gpm


I'm no expert but I agree with this because I run my ddc pump at. 20-40 percent and when I had it set to full speed didn't notice any temp difference


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Increasing to full speed resulted in a whopping 3-4 degree increase in temperatures.Which is negligible in terms of stability.


Different strokes







3-4*C is huge to me - I bought the EVO block based off the possibility of another 2*C. I run 1.67V on the CPU sometimes and with adding a couple 290Xs to the loop next week I need all the headroom I can get

So I received and rebuilt my Supremacy EVO (copper / clean plexi) to replace my smoked CSQ Supremacy yesterday

I've seen reviews on the 'net showing better performance with the EVO in standard mounting configuration but they're all on Intel. Has anyone done testing on mounting orientation for AMD with the EVO?

Also I'll be sanding & lapping the EVO and posting results back here for how flat the block was with the J2 plate recommended for AMD. I've sanded & lapped my drawer of AMD's flat so it only makes sense

Finally ... I tried but can't find a difference between the I1 and I2 plastic inserts for the EVO. What's different between the two? I put the I2 in the block as that's what was recommended in the instructions for AMD


----------



## lowfat

You shouldn't be lapping CPU blocks. That will decrease the performance of the block. They are bowed on purpose. Since waterblocks are mounted w/ pressure on all 4 corners the block flattens out when mounted. By lapping the block, it will be become concave after it is mounted on the CPU. If you want to lap something, lap the CPU.


----------



## FrancisJF




----------



## Archea47

My CPUs are lapped already (made a very large improvement). I'll take your advice and see if the TIM spreads to nothing first before lapping the block


----------



## tatmMRKIV

if you want your block lapped just take out the jetplates.
it should be relatively flat after that.

also ek probaly won't honor any warranties if you lap it


----------



## MadHatter5045

More pics in my build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1523897/build-log-project-gray-son-sma8


----------



## Archea47

Looking good MadHatter!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> if you want your block lapped just take out the jetplates.
> it should be relatively flat after that.
> 
> also ek probaly won't honor any warranties if you lap it


Wow, interesting idea on the jet plate. What I do want is for both surfaces to ultimately be flat, whether that takes lowfat's, your suggestion or lapping. A while back I had an h100i AIO and was re'TIMing every week trying to find the sweet spot and what I found best (and got me 5GHz @ >62*C on IBT AVX) was lapping both the block and IHS and the TIM would get completely except for about a Tinning's worth pushed out from between the mating surfaces. That's the goal here when I talk about lapping the EVO

As for the warranty ... this is overclock.net







I've certainly voided the warranty on almost everything else in the machine


----------



## Ceadderman

Lapping an AIO is accepted and expected. Lapping a WC'ing block is just bad juju. Nothing good will come of it.

~Ceadder


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Got the PMW Pumps from Sidewindercomputers. Just wondering since I have two, should I use a y splitter or hook them up to two different headers on the Rampage V. In which case I would be able to change speeds in the BIOS or from some sort of software in windows?
> 
> THe Cautious One


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> use a splitter on CPU header or not sure but I think you can use the Opt cpu header for the second pump
> 
> so nice polish on pump top


Pretty sure you can connect that to any header on the RVE, If I'm not mistaken all should be PWM capable.

Caselabs case was too big for my 2 DDC to reach any headers. I used splitter on main and haven't had any issue with fluctuation. If I set 3500 rpm both pumps seem to run the same, I am measuring by sound and movement of water in the cylinder res.


----------



## snef

if you connect you pump in serial opn the same loop, use a "y" to have both at exact same speed setting

but if you have 2 different loop , @ALT F4 is right , you can use any fan header on RVE except "OPT CPU fan" because you cant set it individualy from CPU fan header


----------



## thatsboot3101

Sign me up for the EK Club! Build log here http://www.overclock.net/t/1533416/first-watercooled-build

Edit: Wow there's EK reps in this thread?! I had a not so great experience since my EK kit was missing all of the compression fittings but the vendor got things squared away. Quality parts though!


----------



## orndorf77

I decided I want to get a ek supreamacy evo . I want the black csq version but performance pcs only has the black csq version in nickel + acetal . I wanted the black csq version in regular acetal . is there any difference in performance between the nickel + acetal and regular acetal supremacy evo block and what block is better ?


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I decided I want to get a ek supreamacy evo . I want the black csq version but performance pcs only has the black csq version in nickel + acetal . I wanted the black csq version in regular acetal . is there any difference in performance between the nickel + acetal and regular acetal supremacy evo block and what block is better ?


Have a look here: Click


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Have a look here: Click


I checked out frozen cpu . I know they have what I want but if I was to order from frozen cpu the shipping would cost more money and it would take over a week for me to receive it . I live 2 hours from performance pcs and the shipping would cost less and I would get it the next day. performance pcs has the supremacy evo regular black version in regular acetal . I just want to know if there is a performance difference from the nickle + acetal and regular acetal ? also my gpu blocks are regular acetal . would it be ok to have my gpu blocks in acetal and my cpu block in nickel + acetal ? and would there be any negative effects from mixing these blocks ?


----------



## Ragsters

Added new card!


Without flash:


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Added new card!
> 
> 
> Without flash:




even though i dont like white builds, yours looks good


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I checked out frozen cpu . I know they have what I want but if I was to order from frozen cpu the shipping would cost more money and it would take over a week for me to receive it . I live 2 hours from performance pcs and the shipping would cost less and I would get it the next day. performance pcs has the supremacy evo regular black version in regular acetal . I just want to know if there is a performance difference from the nickle + acetal and regular acetal ? also my gpu blocks are regular acetal . would it be ok to have my gpu blocks in acetal and my cpu block in nickel + acetal ? and would there be any negative effects from mixing these blocks ?


The Acetal-Block has a copper-surface towards your CPU and the Acetal-Nickel one has the copper plated with a thin layer of Nickel.
Quote:


> The thermal conductivity of the three and thermal paste are:
> Copper - 400 W/mK
> Nickel - 91 W/mK
> Copper Oxide - 20 W/mK
> Artic Silver thermal paste - 8 W/mK
> 
> Although generally not an issue unless you get a very large build up over time. Basically, you know what happens if you don't apply thermal paste properly? Well the same thing can happen if you get a thick layer of copper oxide forming on the contact surface.
> 
> However, if you do change out the block frequently (say benching), or if it is exposed to high humidity environments, degradation of the surface quality can become an issue. You'll loose the mirror smooth finish as the surface is effectively rusting away.


Source: Click
Quote:


> All nickel blocks are just copper blocks that have been electroplated with nickel. This is an extremely thin layer, and makes absolutely no difference in the real world.
> 
> Basically, get nickel blocks, unless you really really love the look of copper.


Source: Click
Quote:


> Generally speaking, copper and nickel are usually the contact surfaces of waterblocks - so you won't even see to much of them after installation. The plexi and acetal is the part of the block which will face you (except VGAs - there you will see only the edge). So, you want transparent or not? Plexi is usually transparent, while acetal has some color (usually black or white)...
> 
> Getting back on copper vs nickel on functional side, copper has a higher heat dissipation ability - but in the case of the waterblocks that nickel plating of a fraction of the millimeters won't really matter.
> 
> What really matters at waterblocks is the interior design - how restrictive they are. Usually less restriction they have, better will be the coolant flow. But even if you have high restriction, you can use stronger more pumps...
> 
> One thing you have to keep in mind: don't mix copper with aluminum! I mean, if you choose a copper block, you have to et a copper radiator too - otherwise you will end up with electrolitic degradation of your entire loop.
> 
> Bottom line is: Get whichever you like better! When you post some hardware specs, we can discuss which brand/model is better for you. And keep in mind the not-to mix copper with aluminum rule!


Source: Click


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Added new card!


Love it. This was one of the first builds that got me into CaseLabs


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> The Acetal-Block has a copper-surface towards your CPU and the Acetal-Nickel one has the copper plated with a thin layer of Nickel.
> Source: Click
> Source: Click
> Source: Click


so basically what you are saying is i can mix my acetal gpu blocks with a nickel + acetal cpu block it is just aluminum blocks I should stay clear of ? and acetal blocks perform slightly better then nickel + acetal blocks but there is no noticeable difference ? and I should get nickel + acetal blocks over plain acetal blocks because of thermal paste issues ?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Love it. This was one of the first builds that got me into CaseLabs


I appreciate that! Thank you!


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> so basically what you are saying is i can mix my acetal gpu blocks with a nickel + acetal cpu block it is just aluminum blocks I should stay clear of ? and acetal blocks perform slightly better then nickel + acetal blocks but there is no noticeable difference ? and I should get nickel + acetal blocks over plain acetal blocks because of thermal paste issues ?


Yes, you can use whatever you like most.

Copper is theoretically the best, but discolorates over time, but if you go for an Acetal-Top, then you can't see it.

I use a normal Supremacy with acrylic Top and non-plated Copper-Base. There are some discolorations on the CPU-Side of the Block, but non inside, even after the use of blue coolant for ~2.5 years.

My GPU-Blocks are Acetal-Nickel.

Just don't use the cheap Aluminium-Rad's in combination with any non-plated Copper-Part's.

On the other hand, my wife uses the "Thermaltake Bigwater 850 GT"-Kit (came with the Thermaltake Level 10 GT LCS), which has a Aluminium-Rad and Copper-CPU-Block, for ~3.5 years and had no issues so far.

My CPU-Temp's are not borderline and don't prevent a further CPU-OC, but my 3770k is only average overclock-able (4700MHz) and a +/-2C difference in performance would not influence my choice of the CPU-Block.


----------



## theirlaw

I believe I saw an EK rep mention somewhere in this thread that there would be additional types of fittings released in the future? Any update on this? I'd like to do a 100% EK build.


----------



## Swuell

So I'm quite confused about these two products: what's the difference between EK-VGA Supremacy - Acetal+Nickel and the EK-VGA Supremacy - HwBot Edition?? Aren't the both metal??... What metal is the HwBot edition since I can't seem to find any information regarding that aside from the almost $40 spike in price difference for a name and silver coloring... :|.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> So I'm quite confused about these two products: what's the difference between EK-VGA Supremacy - Acetal+Nickel and the EK-VGA Supremacy - HwBot Edition?? Aren't the both metal??... What metal is the HwBot edition since I can't seem to find any information regarding that aside from the almost $40 spike in price difference for a name and silver coloring... :|.


Quote:


> EK-VGA Supremacy HWBOT Edition is a highest performance universal GPU water block built off EK-Supremacy cooling engine. It is a special edition of world-renown EK-VGA Supremacy waterblock featuring 100% metal construction allowing the use in very low temperature chilled liquid cooling systems.


Source: Click
Quote:


> EK-VGA Supremacy is a highest performance universal GPU water block built off EK-Supremacy cooling engine. As a result this product again combines top hydraulic and thermal performance.


Source: Click


----------



## VSG

The former has an acetal top and the HWBot edition has a metal (looks like nickel) top for compatibility with the coldest of water loops using low ambients and chillers for benching.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The former has an acetal top and the HWBot edition has a metal (looks like nickel) top for compatibility with the coldest of water loops using low ambients and chillers for benching.


VSG To save the day using Layman terms. I needed that. Lol

THe Cautious One


----------



## orndorf77

I decided I want to get a ek supremacy evo cpu block but I cant decide on weather to get a ek supremacy evo black csq and red tubing or a ek supremacy evo clear csq and keep the clear tubing with the red anti-kink coils I have now . this is a photo of my build now with my clear tubing . in your opinion what combination would look better a evo csq black with red tubing or a evo csq clear with clear tubing and red anti-kink coils ?


----------



## emsj86

Personally I like clear bc one it looks great two you have the option to cb ge up the color on the fly by changing color fluids. Like I have blue now and I bought white pastel to switch over soon


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theirlaw*
> 
> I believe I saw an EK rep mention somewhere in this thread that there would be additional types of fittings released in the future? Any update on this? I'd like to do a 100% EK build.


Sorry no recent news about that.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I decided I want to get a ek supremacy evo cpu block but I cant decide on weather to get a ek supremacy evo black csq and red tubing or a ek supremacy evo clear csq and keep the clear tubing with the red anti-kink coils I have now . this is a photo of my build now with my clear tubing . in your opinion what combination would look better a evo csq black with red tubing or a evo csq clear with clear tubing and red anti-kink coils ?


I think black + red would look better, as the anti-kink-coil looks somehow strange.

Even that I bought blue anti-kink-coil + blue tubing I never actually used the anti-kink-coil.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Source: Click
> Source: Click


Yes I know that but that just speaks marketing talk... No specs... -__-.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The former has an acetal top and the HWBot edition has a metal (looks like nickel) top for compatibility with the coldest of water loops using low ambients and chillers for benching.


Thank you! So is the about $40 markup worth it--assuming they're both the same blocks based on the supremacy evo and not just the HWBot--unless the HWBot is the only one based on the Supremacy Evo?

And the former has a Acetal+Nickel though while the HWBot has only nickel so which is better than if you're not benching--well I'll do mild benching--but mostly gaming not hardcore benching or LN2.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Yes I know that but that just speaks marketing talk... No specs... -__-.
> Thank you! So is the about $40 markup worth it--assuming they're both the same blocks based on the supremacy evo and not just the HWBot--unless the HWBot is the only one based on the Supremacy Evo?
> 
> And the former has a Acetal+Nickel though while the HWBot has only nickel so which is better than if you're not benching--well I'll do mild benching--but mostly gaming not hardcore benching or LN2.


You will be fine with the regular VGA supremacy. Neither are based off the Evo btw, but rather the previous generation Supremacy. The Thermosphere (still not based off the Evo) is the update to the VGA supremacy and is compatible with their terminal system.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Hey VSG, are the standard full coverage blocks good for use with chillers and/or pretty cold winter outdoor (say -25C) temps, or is it just the hwbot supremacy that can do such?


----------



## VSG

Depends on the loop temps in the end. Plexi isn't going to be my recommendation there, and I honestly am not sure what material the O-rings are made of to tell you for certain. Tiborr is also an active overclocker dealing with subzero temps all the time so see if you can get a hold of him via Akira.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You will be fine with the regular VGA supremacy. Neither are based off the Evo btw, but rather the previous generation Supremacy. The Thermosphere (still not based off the Evo) is the update to the VGA supremacy and is compatible with their terminal system.


Yeah I would go with the Thermosphere but I don't think it will fight taller cards like the MSI r9 290x Lightning, correct? At least that's what I read on Extremerigs unless EK releases some kind of brdige which they haven't yet. :\

Also for the supremacy which one would you recommend and is the HWBot worth the price though? :\ Is it that much of a difference or is it negligible?


----------



## VSG

Thermosphere has ports on the front also. If you can get stop plugs in the other end that don't interfere with components below, shouldn't it be ok? I have no personal experience here so best to get confirmation about if this can even work.

Seeing how you won't really be going sub ambients anyway, it's mostly an aesthetics preference here with the VGA supremacy. Go with whatever you like, they will perform the same.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Depends on the loop temps in the end. Plexi isn't going to be my recommendation there, and I honestly am not sure what material the O-rings are made of to tell you for certain. Tiborr is also an active overclocker dealing with subzero temps all the time so see if you can get a hold of him via Akira.


I only say -25C as the lowest outdoor temp because, well, any lower than that and it's already too darn cold before one factors in windchills (fairly common to see windchill as low as -40C when it's -25C before wind out here). Hey, if I'm going to build a test bench rig setup and I live in an area where winter can be devilicious and cold, might as well look into the possibilities of running it outside and seeing what I can do ^_^ I was leaning more towards the acetal full coverage blocks for that rig anyways, and running Mayhem's XT-1 (I think XT-1, whichever one can go down to -50C depending on the mixture).

I do know though before giving such things a shot I'm going to be having to do a LOT of research.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Thermosphere has ports on the front also. If you can get stop plugs in the other end that don't interfere with components below, shouldn't it be ok? I have no personal experience here so best to get confirmation about if this can even work.
> 
> Seeing how you won't really be going sub ambients anyway, it's mostly an aesthetics preference here with the VGA supremacy. Go with whatever you like, they will perform the same.


Oh I'm not sure from the reviews I read it said the Thermosphere was incompatible with bigger cards like the MSI Lightning and the site using the configuration doesn't even list the Thermosphere as being an option.

Oh. Do you know who I can contact possibly on oc forums to see if what you say can work?

And how is the Thermosphere compared to the Supremacy VGA, also is a full block better temps wise or universal is just as good? Possibly know the difference?


----------



## VSG

Stren recently did a universal block roundup: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/11/18/2014-universal-gpu-block-roundup/

Hopefully this helps. He would be a good person to talk to as well.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Oh I'm not sure from the reviews I read it said the Thermosphere was incompatible with bigger cards like the MSI Lightning and the site using the configuration doesn't even list the Thermosphere as being an option.
> 
> Oh. Do you know who I can contact possibly on oc forums to see if what you say can work?
> 
> And how is the Thermosphere compared to the Supremacy VGA, also is a full block better temps wise or universal is just as good? Possibly know the difference?


I had to buy a THermosphere for a EVGA FTW. (Due to a fullwaterblock not being made for it)

Would These Help?






THe Cautious One.

Unsure about compatibility with the MSI cards though. Temps are great btw. Highest temps were 50c with ambients at 75F In south Louisiana. Barely ever break 42c if ambients are around 60F


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Top three images are when I modded the evga bottom plate to fit the thermosphere, instead of using the copper heatsinks.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Stren recently did a universal block roundup: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/11/18/2014-universal-gpu-block-roundup/
> 
> Hopefully this helps. He would be a good person to talk to as well.


Yeah I had already read that last night the problem is the really good one will probably not work out well for me since 1.I don't have access to a bandsaw to cut the copper plate and 2. I was planning on using the included mosfet heatsink that is with the Lightning. So I opted for the supremacy and also that universal gpu block roundup also said the thermosphere wouldn't fit tall cards like the lightning which was the review I was mentioning earlier. :\


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I had to buy a THermosphere for a EVGA FTW. (Due to a fullwaterblock not being made for it)
> 
> Would These Help?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe Cautious One.
> 
> Unsure about compatibility with the MSI cards though. Temps are great btw. Highest temps were 50c with ambients at 75F In south Louisiana. Barely ever break 42c if ambients are around 60F
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top three images are when I modded the evga bottom plate to fit the thermosphere, instead of using the copper heatsinks.


Yes thank you! Is the EVGA FTW a big card--relatively the same size as a MSI r9 290x LIghtning--and did you end up having to plug the 1/4 holes, if so how did you do it? Also what did you use to mod the bottom plate? Since I wanted to use my included mosfet plate too. I just hope it could fit the thermosphere if it's compatible with the card!


----------



## lowfat

Acetal won't crack w/ temperatures like that. You also shouldn't be using a full cover block for subzero. It will be impossible to insulate the card.

EDIT: This is assuming the computer won't be outside as well.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Acetal won't crack w/ temperatures like that. You also shouldn't be using a full cover block for subzero. It will be impossible to insulate the card.
> 
> EDIT: This is assuming the computer won't be outside as well.


Hrmmm.... So not quite so recommended if I'm planning to bring the case outside eh? What kind of waterblock would you recommend, if any for such an idea? Plan is to use it indoors (mainly) but also outdoors in the winter for, y'know, fun. And giving "pushing things further" a shot.

And just for the record, when you say subzero, you're referring to below 32F/0C right?

EDIT: It sounds like it would be more... Effective... to try and just build a box I can hang in the window for the radiators, and keep the rig indoors.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## King4x4

^^

Oh lowd!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Yes thank you! Is the EVGA FTW a big card--relatively the same size as a MSI r9 290x LIghtning--and did you end up having to plug the 1/4 holes, if so how did you do it? Also what did you use to mod the bottom plate? Since I wanted to use my included mosfet plate too. I just hope it could fit the thermosphere if it's compatible with the card!


THe Thermosphere comes with 2 g1/4 plugs for the outlet/inlet you choose not to use (Since you will have an open port for your inlet/outlet pertaining to loop order)

MSI GPU SITE
Specs on MSI cards can be found there.
IF you WOuld like to compare sizes here For EVGA

How you find out PCB layouts I believe might warrant an email to the manufactor of each company or Just contact EK

@akira749 just might be able to give you some usefull information

The Cautious One

Hope this helps Sir


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Yes thank you! Is the EVGA FTW a big card--relatively the same size as a MSI r9 290x LIghtning--and did you end up having to plug the 1/4 holes, if so how did you do it? Also what did you use to mod the bottom plate? Since I wanted to use my included mosfet plate too. I just hope it could fit the thermosphere if it's compatible with the card!
> 
> 
> 
> THe Thermosphere comes with 2 g1/4 plugs for the outlet/inlet you choose not to use (Since you will have an open port for your inlet/outlet pertaining to loop order)
> 
> MSI GPU SITE
> Specs on MSI cards can be found there.
> IF you WOuld like to compare sizes here For EVGA
> 
> How you find out PCB layouts I believe might warrant an email to the manufactor of each company or Just contact EK
> 
> @akira749 just might be able to give you some usefull information
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> Hope this helps Sir
Click to expand...

The lightning is taller than the FTW but even if the bottom ports are blocked by the card PCB you will have access to your top ports.

Here's a shot from @lowfat on his 980 Strix
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The lightning is taller than the FTW but even if the bottom ports are blocked by the card PCB you will have access to your top ports.
> 
> Here's a shot from @lowfat on his 980 Strix


That's worthy of some Rep! I knew @akira749 could Help!!

THe Cautious One


----------



## Sir Beregond

Well, happy to say that I got my waterblock for my 980 Strix yesterday and got it installed this morning. Sadly I won't have the backplate until Wednesday.



I then proceeded to install my Supremacy EVO to discover that my kit is missing all 4 of the springs that the instructions indicate go under the thumb knobs that tighten down the block. So even with them tightened down all the way, the block is far from secure and wiggles. Need to find out how to get these as they were completely missing from my box.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Beregond*
> 
> Well, happy to say that I got my waterblock for my 980 Strix yesterday and got it installed this morning. Sadly I won't have the backplate until Wednesday.
> 
> 
> 
> I then proceeded to install my Supremacy EVO to discover that my kit is missing all 4 of the springs that the instructions indicate go under the thumb knobs that tighten down the block. So even with them tightened down all the way, the block is far from secure and wiggles. Need to find out how to get these as they were completely missing from my box.


@akira749 Im starting to get worried after reading of things that aren't supplied with the EK products. Did someone new start working over there or something?

THe Cautious One


----------



## 4zp1r1na

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @akira749 Im starting to get worried after reading of things that aren't supplied with the EK products. Did someone new start working over there or something?
> 
> THe Cautious One


And is not the only one with that issue, when i bought the backplate of my R9 290 it did not come with any screw or any tool to make the attachment to the block. And of course my backplate was completely new it was sealed from the fabric since there were no sings of being open before.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Beregond*
> 
> Well, happy to say that I got my waterblock for my 980 Strix yesterday and got it installed this morning. Sadly I won't have the backplate until Wednesday.
> 
> 
> 
> I then proceeded to install my Supremacy EVO to discover that my kit is missing all 4 of the springs that the instructions indicate go under the thumb knobs that tighten down the block. So even with them tightened down all the way, the block is far from secure and wiggles. Need to find out how to get these as they were completely missing from my box.


Just open a ticket on the EK website (http://www.ekwb.com/support/) they will send you the missing parts.

It's unfortunate but it can happen. Lately it's been crazy with the releases and everything sorry


----------



## thatsboot3101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4zp1r1na*
> 
> And is not the only one with that issue, when i bought the backplate of my R9 290 it did not come with any screw or any tool to make the attachment to the block. And of course my backplate was completely new it was sealed from the fabric since there were no sings of being open before.


My EK-KIT X360 I bought myself for X-Mas was missing all 8 compression fittings


----------



## Sir Beregond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Just open a ticket on the EK website (http://www.ekwb.com/support/) they will send you the missing parts.
> 
> It's unfortunate but it can happen. Lately it's been crazy with the releases and everything sorry


Thanks, will do.


----------



## orndorf77

I just placed a order for a ek supremacy evo black csq nickel + acetal . will I see a temperature drop coming from a swiftech apogee xl ? I am not expecting a big temperature drop .


----------



## Georgey123

Any new word on the 980 Classy blocks, are they still scheduled for a Jan release?


----------



## StuttgartRob

Does anyone know if the waterblocks for the X99 Gigabyte motherboards fit the Gigabyte X99M gaming 5. The board isn't listed on the cooling configurator.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Any new word on the 980 Classy blocks, are they still scheduled for a Jan release?


I'd like to know the same for the Gigabyte GTX 980 Gaming G1 blocks.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Any new word on the 980 Classy blocks, are they still scheduled for a Jan release?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> I'd like to know the same for the Gigabyte GTX 980 Gaming G1 blocks.


With the Holiday Season that just ended on friday and the fact that this period was done on a limited schedule, nothing really new was done. Things will really start on monday so we have to wait a little more









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StuttgartRob*
> 
> Does anyone know if the waterblocks for the X99 Gigabyte motherboards fit the Gigabyte X99M gaming 5. The board isn't listed on the cooling configurator.


That's a good question. For sure the normal kit might not fit on the mATX board since the southbridge block will probably be too long but the Hybrid Kit might fit. But I can't know for sure.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Hopefully the MSI 980 Gaming 4G blocks are in the pipes for this month too!


----------



## orndorf77

i placed a order for a ek supremacy evo and I can only find a youtube video of the regular ek supremacy non evo being installed on a socket 1155 1150 . is mounting a supremacy evo on a 1155 1150 socket the same as mounting a regular supremacy non evo on a 1155 1150 socket ? and is there any difference in the mounting hardware ?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> i placed a order for a ek supremacy evo and I can only find a youtube video of the regular ek supremacy non evo being installed on a socket 1155 1150 . is mounting a supremacy evo on a 1155 1150 socket the same as mounting a regular supremacy non evo on a 1155 1150 socket ? and is there any difference in the mounting hardware ?


The mounting hardware was the same as what came with my Supremacy so all instructions outside the internals should still apply


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> The mounting hardware was the same as what came with my Supremacy so all instructions outside the internals should still apply


thanks . in the youtube video i seen the person had removed his motherboard from his case and he still had a hard time securing the back plate to his motherboard . i really dont want to remove my motherboard from my case and my case is a corsair air 540 cube case so it will be hard for me to reach behind my motherboard to hold the back plate in place while i mount the screws . do you think i will be able to secure the back plate to my motherboard while my motherboard is inside my case if i use electric tape to hold the back plate while i put the screws in ? or should i take my motherboard out of my case ?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Hopefully the MSI 980 Gaming 4G blocks are in the pipes for this month too!


It's coming too


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> thanks . in the youtube video i seen the person had removed his motherboard from his case and he still had a hard time securing the back plate to his motherboard . i really dont want to remove my motherboard from my case and my case is a corsair air 540 cube case so it will be hard for me to reach behind my motherboard to hold the back plate in place while i mount the screws . do you think i will be able to secure the back plate to my motherboard while my motherboard is inside my case if i use electric tape to hold the back plate while i put the screws in ? or should i take my motherboard out of my case ?


Why it would be hard to reach the back of your motherboard?? The cutout on the Corsair 540 is gigantic!!!


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Why it would be hard to reach the back of your motherboard?? The cutout on the Corsair 540 is gigantic!!!


a big cut out wont help me secure the backblate to my motherboard while the motherboard is mounted inside my case . I am talking about holding the back plate in place while I put in the screws from the front of the case . the corsair air 540 is a wide case and it will feel awkward holding the back plate in place while I put the screws in . I know because it was a pain mounting my swiftech apogee xl while my motherboard was mounted in my case and the apogee xl comes with double sided adhesive to hold the back plate in place although the double sided adhesive helped but when putting the screws in from the front the back plate fell off a few times . it mite not be difficult if you have long arms .


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> a big cut out wont help me secure the backblate to my motherboard while the motherboard is mounted inside my case . I am talking about holding the back plate in place while I put in the screws from the front of the case . the corsair air 540 is a wide case and it will feel awkward holding the back plate in place while I put the screws in . I know because it was a pain mounting my swiftech apogee xl while my motherboard was mounted in my case and the apogee xl comes with double sided adhesive to hold the back plate in place although the double sided adhesive helped but when putting the screws in from the front the back plate fell off a few times . it mite not be difficult if you have long arms .


Then I think the best would be to remove the board from the case or get a second set of hands from a friend


----------



## Archea47

Right, maybe you can tape it in place but if you can get someone to hold the backplate that'd probably be the easiest. I'd just straddle the case personally


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Then I think the best would be to remove the board from the case or get a second set of hands from a friend


yeah that's a good idea I will get my brother to hold the back plate in place while I put in the screws . I have another question . does the rubber gasket have a adhesive on it that attaches it to the back plate ?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> yeah that's a good idea I will get my brother to hold the back plate in place while I put in the screws . I have another question . does the rubber gasket have a adhesive on it that attaches it to the back plate ?


No it's a plain rubber piece.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> With the Holiday Season that just ended on friday and the fact that this period was done on a limited schedule, nothing really new was done. Things will really start on monday so we have to wait a little more


Thanks Akira, fair enough then. Looking forward to some updates


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No it's a plain rubber piece.


i am probably over thinking this but would it be a good idea to use my own adhesive to stick the gasket to the back plate or is there really no need ?


----------



## Ceadderman

There should be no need. The backplate that comes with the block goes over the rubber piece. The screws will line up the same so all you need do is fit the screws put the rubber piece in place and then mount the backplate in place in the mounting holes and lay your mainboard down and mount the block when you have applied your TIM. Then mount your MB as you normally would.









~Ceadder


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's coming too


So can't wait to see the sexyness!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Any word on the rve monoblock?


----------



## orndorf77

I was just checking out photos of the ek supremacy evo black csq and there is no arrows on it showing the direction the water is supposed to flow while the ek supremacy evo non csq does have arrows . is there any difference between the evo csq and evo non csq other then the csq version having circles on it ?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

None whatso ever


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> None whatso ever


so on the csq version the way to tell which port is in and which port is out is by the ek logo the port with the ek logo underneath it is the out port and the port with out the ek logo underneath it is the in port ?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Middle is input, outer is output. Same on all waterblocks. Is how the jetplates work


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Middle is input, outer is output. Same on all waterblocks. Is how the jetplates work


wow I did not know that I am still kind of new at water cooling thanks for telling me


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> None whatso ever


Normal waterblock configuration + Bitspower Crystal Link > Monoblock.

Thats just my opinion obviously, but I thought it was just plain experimentation and extreme consideration and generosity on EKs part to develop and release a waterblock like that. Its surprising to me to see people just now expecting and feeling entitled to the Rampage V to have a monoblock as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Come on now...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Wasnt asking you.
> Its a follow up to them telling me weeks ago they were working on one so shove it


...there is no need for that. No matter how much ny1 annoys you.

~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Any word on the rve monoblock?


No news yet. Today is the official "back at work" day so maybe some news will come in a few days


----------



## orndorf77

I was just reading the review of the ek supremacy evo on proclockers.com and on the review it has the it has the supremacy evo in brass beating the supremacy evo in nickel by 7.C . is there really that much of a difference in performance from the supremacy evo in brass and the supremacy evo in nickel ?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I was just reading the review of the ek supremacy evo on proclockers.com and on the review it has the it has the supremacy evo in brass beating the supremacy evo in nickel by 7.C . is there really that much of a difference in performance from the supremacy evo in brass and the supremacy evo in nickel ?


First, it's copper not brass.

Second, the 7C difference is between the Supremacy EVO Copper and Supremacy Nickel which is what you call the non-EVO version.


----------



## emsj86

Is the ek supremacy evo effected in any way if turned 90 degrees to have inlet down and outlet up (I ask bc it would help with a setup I have plan have straight linea


----------



## VSG

1-2 ºC at most depending on the platform. Some would say this is a bigger difference than most TIM changes so it's up to you.


----------



## aka13

I see there is EKWB support on forum here, maybe I finally will get a response. Now, I purchased a waterblcok and some stuff with it on Januar the 1st. Now, the money was pulled from my paypal, full sum of 150€. But I never got no order confirmation, nor can I see a placed order in my account. 4 days have passed, and it's certainly not normal.

I'd really hate to have to make the whole procedure with paypal with pulling the payment back.
SInce I do not have the order number, I will post the paypal invoice number -
140000024.

The corresponding email which I made the order from was [email protected]

ANyone else had such problems with ekwb onlineshop?


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No news yet. Today is the official "back at work" day so maybe some news will come in a few days


my bad I did not read what it said correctly but still is there really a 7c temperature difference from the ek supremacy evo copper and the regular ek supremacy nickel ?

I quoted the wrong post


----------



## aka13

Sorry, I guess I am my wrong foot today, sorry. I did mail them already today in the morning, or rather opened a ticket. No reply besides the automatic one. I am just afraid that somehow my order slipped through the shopsystem, and while it's not a problem on itself, it's still rather unpleasant to deal with paypal/pulling the money back, and the longer I do not get a reply the higher the chance I get lost in the system. Thanks anyway, and my sincere apology.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Sorry, I guess I am my wrong foot today, sorry. I did mail them already today in the morning, or rather opened a ticket. No reply besides the automatic one. I am just afraid that somehow my order slipped through the shopsystem, and while it's not a problem on itself, it's still rather unpleasant to deal with paypal/pulling the money back, and the longer I do not get a reply the higher the chance I get lost in the system. Thanks anyway, and my sincere apology.


I have to admit that a withdraw at shipping could be a bit better thought...

Happened to me like last year, during holidays as well (realized just after confirming my order that it was during holidays lol) , got the confirmation mail 1 week later.

Hopefully it gets sorted !


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I have an allergy to getting my money pulled without havin a proper invoice, because that means I am doing charity.


This is just how Paypal works, and always has done. Your Paypal account is debited instantly, your actual bank maybe debited later. The transaction you see in your Paypal history is your "proper invoice". According to Paypal system, the vendor has no obligation to also provide you with any additional correspondence, as long as they ship your goods in a reasonable time. What Paypal calls reasonable is weeks, not days.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I see there is EKWB support on forum here, maybe I finally will get a response. Now, I purchased a waterblcok and some stuff with it on Januar the 1st. Now, the money was pulled from my paypal, full sum of 150€. But I never got no order confirmation, nor can I see a placed order in my account. 4 days have passed, and it's certainly not normal.
> 
> I'd really hate to have to make the whole procedure with paypal with pulling the payment back.
> SInce I do not have the order number, I will post the paypal invoice number -
> 140000024.
> 
> The corresponding email which I made the order from was [email protected]
> 
> ANyone else had such problems with ekwb onlineshop?


You made your order on January 1st and EK was closed the 1st and 2nd of january. Then it's was the weekend (january 3 and 4) and today we are the 5th of january so technically they were aware of your order only this morning (in Slovenia) so it's pretty normal that you still haven't have any news. You have to let people have their proper holiday season and also you have to let the sales department acknowledge your order which might be one of many that were done during this period. So it hasn't been 4 "business" days since your order was made.

Also like WiSK said, this is how Paypal work by debiting your account right away but the transaction can take a few days to be handle by both parts.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> This is just how Paypal works, and always has done. Your Paypal account is debited instantly, your actual bank maybe debited later. The transaction you see in your Paypal history is your "proper invoice". According to Paypal system, the vendor has no obligation to also provide you with any additional correspondence, as long as they ship your goods in a reasonable time. What Paypal calls reasonable is weeks, not days.


Sure, I am not new to paypal, and my bank acc already got puled by paypal acc.

I'd again like to point out that

*But I never got no order confirmation, nor can I see a placed order in my account.*

Any eshop comes with automailer and order history. Now, seeing an order in eshop, and getting no confirmatiion is ok, getting a confirmation and not seeing order is ok,

but NOT getting a confirmation, and NOT seeing the order in the integrated eshop webmenu is definately some kind of an error.

Ok, got ninja'd. THanks for the quick response. It's just most of the time one gets an automated msg on the order confiramtion what confused me.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Sure, I am not new to paypal, and my bank acc already got puled by paypal acc.
> 
> I'd again like to point out that
> 
> *But I never got no order confirmation, nor can I see a placed order in my account.*
> 
> Any eshop comes with automailer and order history. Now, seeing an order in eshop, and getting no confirmatiion is ok, getting a confirmation and not seeing order is ok,
> 
> but NOT getting a confirmation, and NOT seeing the order in the integrated eshop webmenu is definately some kind of an error.


Again *"Holiday Season"*


----------



## VSG

Also, CES week. Some of the EK guys are heading to Las Vegas now. Ditto with most PC DIY brands. Now is a terrible time for orders and RMA.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Again *"Holiday Season"*


Thank you again, I already corrected my post. I posted it without refreshing the site, my bad.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I see there is EKWB support on forum here, maybe I finally will get a response. Now, I purchased a waterblcok and some stuff with it on Januar the 1st. Now, the money was pulled from my paypal, full sum of 150€. But I never got no order confirmation, nor can I see a placed order in my account. 4 days have passed, and it's certainly not normal.
> 
> I'd really hate to have to make the whole procedure with paypal with pulling the payment back.
> SInce I do not have the order number, I will post the paypal invoice number -
> 140000024.
> 
> The corresponding email which I made the order from was [email protected]
> 
> ANyone else had such problems with ekwb onlineshop?


If you purchaced the items from ekwb online shop I doubt they are trying to rip you off but there is definitely a mistake some were


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Patiently awaiting my 480mm EK Radiator and Ek Supremacy EVO Copper

I ordered two of the 480s

EK Coolstream

The Cautious One


----------



## aka13

2x 480s? Where do you plan to use them? I did not manage to find a build log of yours, care to make a pic?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> 2x 480s? Where do you plan to use them? I did not manage to find a build log of yours, care to make a pic?


There will a buildlog soon my friend. I await my Caselabs SMA8 patiently as well. Should be shipping next week. I have 2 x 240mm XSPC Radiators at the house as well. This is going to be a huge build. X99

The Cautious One

Matter of Fact. Here is my list I am chipping away at.

The Dream of A Young Man


----------



## aka13

That amount of rads requires quite a powerful pump, which one do you intend to use?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> That amount of rads requires quite a powerful pump, which one do you intend to use?


I've got 2 x MCP35x DDC's right now



18w or the 3.2V


----------



## aka13

That looks promising, though a bit overkill








I doubt that there is practical use for more than 1 480mm radiator, unless you have 4way sli or something. TOtally looking forward on your build.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> That looks promising, though a bit overkill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I doubt that there is practical use for more than 1 480mm radiator, unless you have 4way sli or something. TOtally *looking forward on your build.*


I thought this was OverClock.net? We are *OVERKILL*

And looking forward to it isn't even close to how I feel. I am READY

The Cautious One


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Lol only 2 480s? I have 2x 480 gtx nemesis and 2x 360s in the works for my desk build. Cooling 2 independent systems though

X99 and x79 maybe dual x99 if i take a liking to 5930k


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Lol only 2 480s? I have 2x 480 gtx nemesis and 2x 360s in the works for my desk build. Cooling 2 independent systems though
> 
> X99 and x79 maybe dual x99 if i take a liking to 5930k


480 x 2 and 240x 2 ( I can't fit the 360mm x 2 in the SMA8 Comfortably)

The Cautious One.

Plus you are building in a desk.


----------



## Deano12345

I love this website for conversations like this...most people I know when I tell them my computer is cooled by water, they look at me like


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Lol i was just joking cuz its ridiculous that you can actually fit that many rads in a case xD

I been liquid cooling since phenom x4 9850black and gtx 280 days.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> I love this website for conversations like this...most people I know when I tell them my computer is cooled by water, they look at me like


Its Because.. They Don't Know what It feels like to be an owner of a creation that is superior to what you can buy, the only limit is your mind and Wallet









The Cautious One


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Its Because.. They Don't Know what It feels like to be an owner of a creation that is superior to what you can buy, the only limit is your mind and Wallet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


Yeah it is usually followed by 'Can you build me one' ?

Actually this would be the perfect thread to ask in considering there are more rads going in to the PC in the next month or so. I've got a EK Bay DCP (not sure exactly what pump it is in it) and I already have a 360 and 120, going to be adding a 240 and a 120 to the loop to help keep the whole system cool when the Classy's go under water ! Would the DCP be okay or would I need to add another pump ?


----------



## snef

i use a lot of Rad space to have a passive cooling on low CPU usage, like this my computer is very quiet when im on web , youtube or any low cpu usage application

i have 2 x 480 and 1 x 240, fan are simply off until coolant reach 37c

@Deano12345

sorry , i never use this pump, but im sure it will work, maybe not optimal but work

you dont need a big flow to cool your system

what you will have in your loop?


----------



## velocityx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> i use a lot of Rad space to have a passive cooling on low CPU usage, like this my computer is very quiet when im on web , youtube or any low cpu usage application
> 
> i have 2 x 480 and 1 x 240, fan are simply off until coolant reach 37c
> 
> @Deano12345
> 
> sorry , i never use this pump, but im sure it will work, maybe not optimal but work
> 
> you dont need a big flow to cool your system
> 
> what you will have in your loop?


speaking of which, would EK-Coolstreem PE 360 and two EK PE 240 be enough for a dual radeon 290 and an i74790k build? I love the looks of those PE rads.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> speaking of which, would EK-Coolstreem PE 360 and two EK PE 240 be enough for a dual radeon 290 and an i74790k build? I love the looks of those PE rads.


in theory, a 360 is enough for 2 gpu and 1 cpu
yes your 3 rad will be enough, and give you room for overclocking


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> speaking of which, would EK-Coolstreem PE 360 and two EK PE 240 be enough for a dual radeon 290 and an i74790k build? I love the looks of those PE rads.


Even if Your i7 was overclocked and both GPUS you would be good.

The Cautious One

Theory = 120mm Rad per component.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I have alot of hot hardware and then i decide to overclock it. xD
I only use nonapu 6core+ chips for my personal rigs and sli hot gpus

I also like to cool my mobos for the added mosfet cooling since i like to do max oc, which often includes blk. And mosfets get hot like 150f+ sometimes so thats another added heatsource

Do cpu + mobo on one rad and up to 4gpus one the other


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I have alot of hot hardware and then i decide to overclock it. xD
> I only use nonapu 6core+ chips for my personal rigs and sli hot gpus
> 
> I also like to cool my mobos for the added mosfet cooling since i like to do max oc, which often includes blk. And mosfets get hot like 150f+ sometimes so thats another added heatsource


Never Realized why to add Mosfet Blocks. Thats due to rasing BLK speed?

The Cautious One


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> i use a lot of Rad space to have a passive cooling on low CPU usage, like this my computer is very quiet when im on web , youtube or any low cpu usage application
> 
> i have 2 x 480 and 1 x 240, fan are simply off until coolant reach 37c
> 
> @Deano12345
> 
> sorry , i never use this pump, but im sure it will work, maybe not optimal but work
> 
> you dont need a big flow to cool your system
> 
> what you will have in your loop?


2600K and the 2x980's overvolted fairly heavily. The 360 and 120 will probably be fine, but I like the challenge of fitting these rads somewhere not everyone thinks of, and its a bit more headroom I guess !


----------



## tatmMRKIV

It contributes.
It definitely got too hot for my comfort on my rive board when i was trying to do 4.8ghz + and oc the blk

Also on the rve board i heard it gets hot to the point people are doing the backplate mod.
Every bit helps when u are doing overclocks that are past most chips capabilities


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I've got 2 x MCP35x DDC's right now
> 
> 
> 
> 18w or the 3.2V


I use a DCP 4.0 for CPU + 2x GPU + 1x 240-XTX + 2x 480-XTX.

GPU-Temps went down from max 89C to max 35-40C.


----------



## Ceadderman

Sure wish. EK still stocked full 6870 blocks. I understand why they don't, but it would be nice if they had a CNC strictly for milling previous gen schematics from their library.I know they don't round file them upon completion of their production runs.









~Ceadder


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Never Realized why to add Mosfet Blocks. Thats due to rasing BLK speed?
> 
> The Cautious One


I can't believe I ever OC'd without one at this point. Watercooling my VRMs & NB on AMD FX brought the VRM & socket Temps way down. Some type of cooling is vital if you want to push the envelope with your CPU as more GHz needs more volts and more volts means more heat All around
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Yeah it is usually followed by 'Can you build me one' ?
> 
> Actually this would be the perfect thread to ask in considering there are more rads going in to the PC in the next month or so. I've got a EK Bay DCP (not sure exactly what pump it is in it) and I already have a 360 and 120, going to be adding a 240 and a 120 to the loop to help keep the whole system cool when the Classy's go under water ! Would the DCP be okay or would I need to add another pump [?]


If it's a DCP 4.0 you should still be sitting pretty


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> I use a DCP 4.0 for CPU + 2x GPU + 1x 240-XTX + 2x 480-XTX.
> 
> GPU-Temps went down from max 89C to max 35-40C.


Correct me if I'm wrong but without other cooling options or liquid nitro. Isn't there a cap on cpu and gpu temps. Meaning you can only go as low or slightly lower than ambient temp


----------



## SteezyTN

Can anyone help me or to see if I'm doing something wrong?

I have my 4770k overclocked to 4.4 at 1.235v with the XSPC Raystorm (I know... I will upgrade everything to EK soon), and my 6GB 780s in 2-Way SLI overclocked to 1202mhz at 1.2v with the EK-FC780 GTX Ti Acetal blocks (love these). I have two 240mm rads (one thick and one thin) and one 360mm rad (thick)... Yet my water temps reach 40c (not hardware temps).

Does this sound about right?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Can anyone help me or to see if I'm doing something wrong?
> 
> I have my 4770k overclocked to 4.4 at 1.235v with the XSPC Raystorm (I know... I will upgrade everything to EK soon), and my 6GB 780s in 2-Way SLI overclocked to 1202mhz at 1.2v with the EK-FC780 GTX Ti Acetal blocks (love these). I have two 240mm rads (one thick and one thin) and one 360mm rad (thick)... Yet my water temps reach 40c (not hardware temps).
> 
> Does this sound about right?


It would sound about right. What is the difference in your core temps? You are dumping heat from 3 objects into the same loop.

THe Cautious One.

My temps on my gpu (one single 780) and my 4770k overclocked to 4.564Ghz using 1.29v are 40ish when gaming. The Cores usually around 55?

Ambients in house have been around 65F and I know in the summer I will be sitting around 65C on the cores and High 40s if Not 50s on the GPU


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> It would sound about right. What is the difference in your core temps? You are dumping heat from 3 objects into the same loop.
> 
> THe Cautious One.
> 
> My temps on my gpu (one single 780) and my 4770k overclocked to 4.564Ghz using 1.29v are 40ish when gaming. The Cores usually around 55?
> 
> Ambients in house have been around 65F and I know in the summer I will be sitting around 65C on the cores and High 40s if Not 50s on the GPU


What fans are you using? Are they quiet and what RPM? If I leave my XSPC 1650RPM fans around 60-70% they get kind of loud (this keeps temps around 36c-38c water temps). My 780's stay 1c of each other because I have the EK Parallel block.

But temps on my 780's never reach 50c. The hottest I've seen was like 48c or 49c

BTW, what temps do you get on your 4770K? If I overclock it to 4.5 at 1.3, it will reach about 70c in games (max at 80c in Crysis 3 at some parts).


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What fans are you using? Are they quiet and what RPM? If I leave my XSPC 1650RPM fans around 60-70% they get kind of loud (this keeps temps around 36c-38c water temps). My 780's stay 1c of each other because I have the EK Parallel block.
> 
> But temps on my 780's never reach 50c. The hottest I've seen was like 48c or 49c
> 
> BTW, what temps do you get on your 4770K? If I overclock it to 4.5 at 1.3, it will reach about 70c in games (max at 80c in Crysis 3 at some parts).


A) my 3770k works exactly the same but 4.8 @ 1.325v and specifically worse to about 80*C running cryengine (a la star citizen)

B) I was using those 3 xspc 2000's that came with my kit, I replaced 2/3 with corsair sp120's that run significantly quieter and cool the same amount... I am not a fan of those xinrulian fans, and do not suggest them unless sound is NOT pet peeve to the user.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> A) my 3770k works exactly the same but 4.8 @ 1.325v and specifically worse to about 80*C running cryengine (a la star citizen)
> 
> B) I was using those 3 xspc 2000's that came with my kit, I replaced 2/3 with corsair sp120's that run significantly quieter and cool the same amount... I am not a fan of those xinrulian fans, and do not suggest them unless sound is NOT pet peeve to the user.


Okay cool, thanks! What speed do you run your fans at. I returned my old SP120s due to a rattle/electrical buzz like every 15 seconds when running at low RPM. I want to keep my system silent. I'm willing to up the rpm a little to avoid the sound I kept having, even if i have to sacrifice a little noise from higher RPMs. For my XSPCfans, they need to run aboit 1100-1300 to keep my water temps under 40c.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong but without other cooling options or liquid nitro. Isn't there a cap on cpu and gpu temps. Meaning you can only go as low or slightly lower than ambient temp


That's right.

I only wanted to show, that there is no need for 2 pumps in a single loop and that kind of part's.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## King4x4

Sexy Sexy!

My fans will be shipping any day now


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> If it's a DCP 4.0 you should still be sitting pretty


It's a DCP 2.2 as far as I remember. Is there a big difference ?


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> It's a DCP 2.2 as far as I remember. Is there a big difference ?


DCP 4.0-Spec's:
Quote:


> Technical specifications:
> 
> - Rated voltage: 12V DC
> - Power consumption: 18W
> - Maximum pressure head: 4.0m
> - Maximum flow: 800L/h
> - Maximum system temperature: 60°C
> - MTBF: 50.000 hrs at 25°C
> - Power connector: 3-Pin FAN connector


DCP 2.2-Spec's:
Quote:


> Technical specifications:
> 
> - Rated voltage: 12V DC
> - Power consumption: 6.5W
> - Maximum pressure head: 2.2m
> - Maximum flow: 400L/h
> - Maximum system temperature: 60°C
> - MTBF: 50.000 hrs at 25°C
> - Power connector: 3-Pin FAN connector


----------



## Rahldrac

What's up with the maximum system Temps on those specs? I see a lot of watercooling equipment saying max 60 degrees. But I still hear people have their cpu on 70 degrees?


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> What's up with the maximum system Temps on those specs? I see a lot of watercooling equipment saying max 60 degrees. But I still hear people have their cpu on 70 degrees?


That's the max. allowed Coolant-Temp. flowing through the Pump.


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> That's the max. allowed Coolant-Temp. flowing through the Pump.


Thanks you for the quick reply! But If the cpu hits low 80c will not the liquid be above 60? Or is the heat transfer between the liquid and the cpu just too slow?


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Thanks you for the quick reply! But If the cpu hits low 80c will not the liquid be above 60? Or is the heat transfer between the liquid and the cpu just too slow?


As your liquid is constantly flowing and running through your radiators etc. it will normally not reach that kind of temp's, at least not as long your loop is sufficient.

You would be able to feel it just by touching your tubing, if the coolant would be 60C hot.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Thanks you for the quick reply! But If the cpu hits low 80c will not the liquid be above 60? Or is the heat transfer between the liquid and the cpu just too slow?


CPU's reach high core temps because they are small and can't conduct energy efficiently away. If you look at testing of CPU water blocks the core temp is anywhere from 30C to 50C higher than the water cooling it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What fans are you using? Are they quiet and what RPM? If I leave my XSPC 1650RPM fans around 60-70% they get kind of loud (this keeps temps around 36c-38c water temps). My 780's stay 1c of each other because I have the EK Parallel block.
> 
> But temps on my 780's never reach 50c. The hottest I've seen was like 48c or 49c
> 
> BTW, what temps do you get on your 4770K? If I overclock it to 4.5 at 1.3, it will reach about 70c in games (max at 80c in Crysis 3 at some parts).


I have all Sp120 Corsair Fans (Quiet ed) Hooked up to a fan controller. I run them at 800 to 1100 rpm ( I forget how they are hooked up, I know I have a couple Y splitters in there)




I used the Stock two Fans that come with the 750D ( Corsair 120mm) for in the take of my 240mm Rad with Sp120 Quiets on the Rear of the 240 for push/pull and my top 360mm rad in Push only due to space limitation. The Rear Stock 120mm Corsair Fan is intake to combat the heat coming from the front 240mm rad.

My Overclock with a stress test at 30min with Realbench 2.2 (AMbients at 65F) have topped out at 78 - 80C)

During gaming I rarely see 70c for the 4770k) It is Dellided.

The Cautious One


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have all Sp120 Corsair Fans (Quiet ed) Hooked up to a fan controller. I run them at 800 to 1100 rpm ( I forget how they are hooked up, I know I have a couple Y splitters in there)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the Stock two Fans that come with the 750D ( Corsair 120mm) for in the take of my 240mm Rad with Sp120 Quiets on the Rear of the 240 for push/pull and my top 360mm rad in Push only due to space limitation. The Rear Stock 120mm Corsair Fan is intake to combat the heat coming from the front 240mm rad.
> 
> My Overclock with a stress test at 30min with Realbench 2.2 (AMbients at 65F) have topped out at 78 - 80C)
> 
> During gaming I rarely see 70c for the 4770k) It is Dellided.
> 
> The Cautious One


yeah, your build is the one I will always remember because the Photon (my favorite thing about XSPC-- I know it's the EK thread, but I do love my photon)

Are those quiet fans loud at 1100 rpm? I have an NZXT Sentry Mix 2 fan controller that I'm using to control all the radiator fans in my system. I'm thinking about adding push pull to my RX240 in the front of my case (with the SP120's and add some radiator gaskets). Maybe that will drop water temps a few. Because I have my AF140 in the back, I may as well just swap it to intake and see what temps will be like (even though I love the red ring haha)

BTW, those are 140's that came with the 750D


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you ever have AP-29s? I'm curious to hear a comparison between them - been eying the Furious


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> yeah, your build is the one I will always remember because the Photon (my favorite thing about XSPC-- I know it's the EK thread, but I do love my photon)
> 
> Are those quiet fans loud at 1100 rpm? I have an NZXT Sentry Mix 2 fan controller that I'm using to control all the radiator fans in my system. I'm thinking about adding push pull to my RX240 in the front of my case (with the SP120's and add some radiator gaskets). Maybe that will drop water temps a few. Because I have my AF140 in the back, I may as well just swap it to intake and see what temps will be like (even though I love the red ring haha)
> 
> BTW, those are 140's that came with the 750D


OH Snap! I was trying to recall from memory. Lol. Nice Call there and I appologize for the mixup. You and I have run into each other before, this is true. Who in the world would forget steezy? I have always been told to try and have all Rads setup as intake in order for them to have THe "Coldest" air passing over them. Spending 30 Dollars for push/pull is probably unecessary to have a temp drop of 1 - 2 C. There will be a discussion after us about Positive pressure and whatnot that could affect your case temps as well.

The Cautious One


----------



## orwasmadi

*Hello,

I am planning to watercool my SLI GTX 680 MSI Lightning, i already have the waterblocks, but i don't want to use the big and bulky SLI bridges available from EK, what i want is the ability to connect the 2 block with a single pipe.
could you please guide me to the required SLI links and fittings in order to do what i am planning to do.

Thanks,*


----------



## Kimir

If you want a single rigid tubing, you can go with this
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/tubing/solid-tubing.html
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings/hard-tubing-connectors.html
select the proper length and diameter

or you can use the same link I used on my 680L setup


----------



## Ardi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orwasmadi*
> 
> *Hello,
> 
> I am planning to watercool my SLI GTX 680 MSI Lightning, i already have the waterblocks, but i don't want to use the big and bulky SLI bridges available from EK, what i want is the ability to connect the 2 block with a single pipe.
> could you please guide me to the required SLI links and fittings in order to do what i am planning to do.
> 
> Thanks,*


You can use EK-HD tubes. In series you need only one tube between the cards in parallel you need two tubes.
http://www.ekwb.com/news/372/19/EK-HD-Tubes-and-Adapters-released/


----------



## orwasmadi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ardi*
> 
> You can use EK-HD tubes. In series you need only one tube between the cards in parallel you need two tubes.
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/372/19/EK-HD-Tubes-and-Adapters-released/


Thank you Ardi for your reply,

but the question is, will the black link connected to the waterbock be compatible with my 680 MSI Lightinig Waterblock, this is my main confusion.

i can't understand what is compatible with my waterblock, so sorry for being so noob .. first time watercooling.


----------



## Ardi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orwasmadi*
> 
> Thank you Ardi for your reply,
> 
> but the question is, will the black link connected to the waterbock be compatible with my 680 MSI Lightinig Waterblock, this is my main confusion.
> 
> i can't understand what is compatible with my waterblock, so sorry for being so noob .. first time watercooling.


Does this pdf describe the waterblock you've got? If not, could you please send me the link to your exact block?

The step 6 of that installation document shows two methods for attaching fittings to your block. One method is with EK-FC Link and one method is without. I'm assuming you want it without the EK-FC link?


----------



## orwasmadi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ardi*
> 
> Does this pdf describe the waterblock you've got? If not, could you please send me the link to your exact block?


Thank you so much Ardi, There you go

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109857007.pdf


----------



## orwasmadi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> If you want a single rigid tubing, you can go with this
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/tubing/solid-tubing.html
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings/hard-tubing-connectors.html
> select the proper length and diameter
> 
> or you can use the same link I used on my 680L setup


thanks Kimir, but my confusion is in finding that black Link that connects directly to the waterblock that will be compatable with my blocks.


----------



## Kimir

All waterblock are with G1/4 thread and so are the fittings, it will work.
As you can see with your own image









http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-single.html

the FC-Link has G1/4 ports.


----------



## Ardi

Oh, I just took a good look at the doc and unfortunately, it looks like you don't have much choice in connecting the two cards. You might have to use the EK-FC link. Derek from EKWB should be able to give you a more accurate answer. Did you PM him?


----------



## orwasmadi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> All waterblock are with G1/4 thread and so are the fittings, it will work.
> As you can see with your own image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-single.html
> 
> the FC-Link has G1/4 ports.


----------



## Ardi

ok got it. The red one is your EK-FC Link and the top one is EK-FC bridge as Kimir mentioned. The combination of those two should allow you to use EK-HD tubes. You want to make sure there's enough distance between the two cards for all these extra attachments to fit. At the end you might find the EK parallel or serial bridges easier to use though


----------



## orwasmadi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ardi*
> 
> ok got it. The red one is your EK-FC Link and the top one is EK-FC bridge as Kimir mentioned. The combination of those two should allow you to use EK-HD tubes. You want to make sure there's enough distance between the two cards for all these extra attachments to fit. At the end you might find the EK parallel or serial bridges easier to use though


That is quite unfortunate, so if i want to use the EK parallel or serial bridges, what parts exactly do i have to get Ardi ?


----------



## Ardi

Definitely contact EKWB to make sure you get the exact parts you need before spending a lot of time and money and ending up with wrong parts. I've never used your specific water block and there might be a better solution and I'm sure the EK guys would be glad to help you out.









With that said, here's what I think you would need (again I could be wrong and check with EKWB)
You need one FC Link adapter for each FC water block you wish to connect plus a bridge, for example http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-bridges-links/ek-fc-bridge-dual-parallel.html


----------



## orwasmadi

Thank you so much Ardi, you were very helpful and i will definitely take your advice and contact EKWB now.

Happy new year


----------



## Ardi

Not a problem at all. Best of luck with your water cooling adventures and happy new year to you too


----------



## akira749

@orwasmadi Just buy 2 EK-FC Bridge SINGLE CSQ and you will be able to fit any SLI tubing/fitting solution you want


----------



## orwasmadi

So is this a legit SLI Connection Setup?

White tube coming from Radiator, Black Tube going to the 2nd Water Block


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orwasmadi*
> 
> So is this a legit SLI Connection Setup?
> 
> White tube coming from Radiator, Black Tube going to the 2nd Water Block
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Totally legit


----------



## orwasmadi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Totally legit


you guys saved me so much time and headache, thank you all


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orwasmadi*
> 
> you guys saved me so much time and headache, thank you all


Also, by going with a solution like you pictured with some 90 degrees fittings you don't have to buy the single bridge that I linked


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> @orwasmadi Just buy 2 EK-FC Bridge SINGLE CSQ and you will be able to fit any SLI tubing/fitting solution you want


Wait. Is this What @orwasmadi is using?

The Cautious One.

EDIT: Nvm that is the connection block supplied with the CSQ


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> DCP 4.0-Spec's:
> DCP 2.2-Spec's:


I've only got half the flow rate







I think I'll try with the 2.2 and if it's struggling then I'll drop the loop again and order a 4. Only a few days until I can order my second GPU.

Going to order the EVGA backplates too, I can't imagine they'll cause any issues with the WB when it gets released bar needing some slightly longer screws !


----------



## orndorf77

I am trying to install my new ek supremacy evo on a 1150 socket and the screws were not labled and they were all in the same bag which screws do I need to use to secure the back plate the short screws or the long screws ?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I am trying to install my new ek supremacy evo on a 1150 socket and the screws were not labled and they were all in the same bag which screws do I need to use to secure the back plate the short screws or the long screws ?


Refer to the instruction sheet : http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109800058.pdf

Step 5c


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I am trying to install my new ek supremacy evo on a 1150 socket and the screws were not labled and they were all in the same bag which screws do I need to use to secure the back plate the short screws or the long screws ?


I just recieved mine and the manual says that the short screws are specifically for the LGA2011 bracket. At least the pictures show it.. I agree that it isn't really clear though.
So according to your sig rig (I7-4790k) which is LGA1150 you should use the long screws.
I personally would try it without TIM first to check if it fits.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I am trying to install my new ek supremacy evo on a 1150 socket and the screws were not labled and they were all in the same bag which screws do I need to use to secure the back plate the short screws or the long screws ?


Use the long screws. Also make sure you have the springs. Mine didn't









EK has so far been very helpful in the process of getting them replaced. Kuddos so far on my interactions with their support.


----------



## Freaxy

http://www.ekwb.com/news/558/19/EK-intros-GIGABYTE-GTX-980-Gaming-G1-Full-Cover-water-block/

Awesome! just ordered 2 incl. backplates


----------



## orndorf77

I am in shock I upgraded from a swiftech apogee xl cpu block to a ek supremacy evo and my temperatures are 6 degrees Celsius cooler . hear is a picture of my build now with my new ek supremacy evo and red tubing how do you think my build looks ?


----------



## lowfat

The xl isn't a very good block. It actually performs worse than their previous block.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The xl isn't a very good block. It actually performs worse than their previous block.


But... Customizable aesthetics!!









....Says the guy who'd rather take crop circle EVO's. There's just something about them crop circles.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I am in shock I upgraded from a swiftech apogee xl cpu block to a ek supremacy evo and my temperatures are 6 degrees Celsius cooler . hear is a picture of my build now with my new ek supremacy evo and red tubing how do you think my build looks ?


A lot better without the anti kink tubing you had imo


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> The circle are fugly
> Their noncsq stuff isnt bad but that csq stuff.... lets just say i will buy from another company before using in any of my builds


And you came on this thread to say this why?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Cuz people were talking about them.
I use ek. But nothing with circles on it


----------



## emsj86

I'm sorry I thought you were just bashing ek in general since most everything that have recently has the circles. Well not all but alot


----------



## tatmMRKIV

They have noncsq variations of most products but not all are available as they should be. Like if i want a noncsq d5top i have to buy a top+pump combo
Personally i liked pre-csq ek hardware waaay better. I never got the chance to own any sadly.
The circles just seem like some fail hipster take on what modern design is/should be, and then applied it to waterblocks.
its just so out of place in the environment inside of a computer case.

I just cant make the correlation of pointless circles inside a computer system.

Especially, since its something you would have to conciously incorperate into a build.
It just is soo damn busy, ya feel me?
The noncsq you can just add to a build more easily


----------



## VSG

My Supremacy Evo review is complete now. Won't post details here, but people on x99 should definitely be going with Insert I2 and jetplate J3 as recommended.


----------



## SteezyTN

I currently have an XSPC Raystorm CPU block and I'm looking into an EK block (because I love my 780 water blocks). How much of an improvement will I see over temps? I used the thermal paste that came with my GPU blocks.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Not much if i recall maybe a few c, last i remember the raystorm was a pretty good block


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I currently have an XSPC Raystorm CPU block and I'm looking into an EK block (because I love my 780 water blocks). How much of an improvement will I see over temps? I used the thermal paste that came with my GPU blocks.


I just upgraded my swiftech apogee xl for a ek supremacy evo my temperatures went down 6c


----------



## aka13

Now my order just got cancelle. No emails, no notifications, nothing, just moneyback procedure via paypal.
I have never seen online shopping implemented worse than it is implemented at ekwb. I have gotten nothing, and payed 2 euros for that. Now that's what I call service.
I highly discourage anyone from buying anything directly through the shop at ekwb. While the products are great, the service is unbearable, never again.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Now my order just got cancelle. No emails, no notifications, nothing, just moneyback procedure via paypal.
> I have never seen online shopping implemented worse than it is implemented at ekwb. I have gotten nothing, and payed 2 euros for that. Now that's what I call service.
> I highly discourage anyone from buying anything directly through the shop at ekwb. While the products are great, the service is unbearable, never again.


I think you are one out of several hundred who have had a problem this bad. Ordering from the EK website is fine.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I have heard of a few problems lately, but nothing that bad, just stuff like screws missing


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Now my order just got cancelle. No emails, no notifications, nothing, just moneyback procedure via paypal.
> I have never seen online shopping implemented worse than it is implemented at ekwb. I have gotten nothing, and payed 2 euros for that. Now that's what I call service.
> I highly discourage anyone from buying anything directly through the shop at ekwb. While the products are great, the service is unbearable, never again.


Ok, it keeps getting stranger and stranger, although this time in positive way. Now, I got the original sum of money back, as I stated in the previous post, wihout the tiny 2 euro fee my bank took for the transaction, but now I got an email from ekwb stating that my order has SHIPPED. I don't even lnow what to do now, since, well, I at the same time already ordered it at caseking.de, I am really uncertain. Am I comming some sort of freud now? I did not request the money back, it just came itself today in the morning.

What the hell should I do?










I mean, I can not really stop the caseking order, too, it already HAS shipped. I mean, sure, 2 waterblocks are better than one, but what the hell is going on?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Ok, it keeps getting stranger and stranger, although this time in positive way. Now, I got the original sum of money back, as I stated in the previous post, wihout the tiny 2 euro fee my bank took for the transaction, but now I got an email from ekwb stating that my order has SHIPPED. I don't even lnow what to do now, since, well, I at the same time already ordered it at caseking.de, I am really uncertain. Am I comming some sort of freud now? I did not request the money back, it just came itself today in the morning.
> 
> What the hell should I do?


Contact EK (http://www.ekwb.com/support/) it's really really wierd


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Anyone who might be interested in some unique building EK Parts. My Build Log is Up









The Cautious One


----------



## emsj86

At this point aka I'd call ek before you do anything. If you didn't you should have contacted them when you found out about getting your money back and the order being canceled


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Anyone who might be interested in some unique building EK Parts. My Build Log is Up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


The build log is real!!! Lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> The build log is real!!! Lol


you Guys kept pushing me around! Lol. It is up and Willing waiting for my Case!!

The Cautious One


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Now my order just got cancelle. No emails, no notifications, nothing, just moneyback procedure via paypal.


Did you not receive any emails from EK at all? Not even when you made the initial account on their shop?

Is it possible the emails from EK are either in your junk folder? Or that EK's email provider is not allow to send to your email provider (e.g. receiver is listed in Spamhaus block list)?


----------



## aka13

Nah, I do get email from EK. Not a problem of my email acc/server. Btw, the moneyback thing turned out to be some sort of paypal problem, the funds got pulled today back, so now everything isd good. Was a fun adventure though


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Nah, I do get email from EK. Not a problem of my email acc/server. Btw, the moneyback thing turned out to be some sort of paypal problem, the funds got pulled today back, so now everything isd good. Was a fun adventure though


With all the troubles you encountered in the buying process I hope that everything will be ok in your order when you receive it!

Let us know


----------



## Rahldrac

Bought myself 2x970 G1 full waterblock and backplates today! Hope they come with all the screws


----------



## aka13

Hell zes, sure it will, I mean, I can not possiblz expect that anything else could interfere with the order anymore. I guess I pulled the 1 in 1000 chance for paypal AND webshop to malfunction. Still not making my experience worse with the product









And thank you very much for the quick replies here.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Donating to EK Over Here! Big Hitter on that One







Im ready to start Polishing and Sanding.

THe Cautious One


----------



## DNMock

Quick question on the EK Monarch RAM blocks.

Are the XSPC RAM modules compatible with them?

Finally decided to get around to installing it and now I can't find any of the EK modules anywhere.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quick question on the EK Monarch RAM blocks.
> 
> Are the XSPC RAM modules compatible with them?
> 
> Finally decided to get around to installing it and now I can't find any of the EK modules anywhere.


The Bitspower ones are compatible.


----------



## DNMock

Sweet, thanks!


----------



## Jakusonfire

All the different models available simply replicate the corsair dominator heatsink so they all work with each other. Just a flat piece of aluminium with m3 threads the correct distance apart. The ek are the best though of course.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Donating to EK Over Here! Big Hitter on that One
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im ready to start Polishing and Sanding.
> 
> THe Cautious One


So are you still keeping your 750d, 4770k, 780 rig? I absolutely love my 6GB 780 SLI setup, but honestly, I'm getting bored of the 750D lol. Maybe next year or two, I'll get the SMA8. That case is b-e-a-utiful... But I really don't feel like spending $700 haha


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So are you still keeping your 750d, 4770k, 780 rig? I absolutely love my 6GB 780 SLI setup, but honestly, I'm getting bored of the 750D lol. Maybe next year or two, I'll get the SMA8. That case is b-e-a-utiful... But I really don't feel like spending $700 haha


I am planning on "Using" my current 750D setup (z87 platform though) I love the overclock I have for 24/7 use right now @ 4.564Ghz from the 4770K. The Processor is delidded though. I wonder if I could even have the hear to sell it to someone? If I redid the loop and beefed it up a little I think I could part with it you know?

Still Giving it some thought.

THe Cautious One


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lavins*
> 
> I absolutely love the 3-Way Terminal Acrylic Bridge. I think I waited an entire year and a half for it to happen, but it's finally here!
> 
> 
> 
> It's absolutely beautiful!


Do you have any pics of the blocks lit up?


----------



## tistou77

Hello

Does anyone have the dimensions of the mod "Ek waterblock D5" with the top?



Thanks so much


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Does anyone have the dimensions of the mod "Ek waterblock D5" with the top?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks so much


about 80x70mm


Ohh dust that is, cleaning soon must be done!


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> about 80x70mm
> 
> 
> Ohh dust that is, cleaning soon must be done!


Thanks so much


----------



## marshymellows

Tought id share my first ever WC build(keep in mind that the cables will not be visable after ive put windows on my side panels)
The mobile camera does not give it justice...


----------



## Vindicare

Does anyone here use EK clear coolant?

Do you have any adverse reaction to primochill advanced lrt tubing?

in just 3 days my tubing is like this



could that be plasticizer?


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> Does anyone here use EK clear coolant?
> 
> Do you have any adverse reaction to primochill advanced lrt tubing?
> 
> in just 3 days my tubing is like this
> 
> 
> 
> could that be plasticizer?


I only use it with blue tubing, so I can't really tell.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Is it possible that my FC970 GTX WF3 full block was shipped with the wrong hardware included? I went to install the block this morning and none of the supplied screws fit the block. All of them are too big and they don't even start to thread.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Is it possible that my FC970 GTX WF3 full block was shipped with the wrong hardware included? I went to install the block this morning and none of the supplied screws fit the block. All of them are too big and they don't even start to thread.


Anything is possible, but most EK blocks use the same M3 screws.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Anything is possible, but most EK blocks use the same M3 screws.


That's what I was figuring. Really strange that none of these fit. There is even one longer screw that was included (has a matching metal nut) and even that one is the wrong size. I'm not even sure what that screw would be used for.

Hoping it's just an issue with the supplied hardware and not something wrong with the block itself.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> Does anyone here use EK clear coolant?
> 
> Do you have any adverse reaction to primochill advanced lrt tubing?
> 
> in just 3 days my tubing is like this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> could that be plasticizer?


I'm using it but with acrylic tubes so I can't help you about a possible reaction with the Advanced LRT but I would be surprised since this tubing is the one to use if you want to avoid plasticizer issues. And after only 3 days I don't think any tube would plasticize that fast.

Did you flushed your radiators before putting them to the loop?

Is this a new loop or did it had any other coolant in it before?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Is it possible that my FC970 GTX WF3 full block was shipped with the wrong hardware included? I went to install the block this morning and none of the supplied screws fit the block. All of them are too big and they don't even start to thread.


That's possible but unfortunate









Just open a ticket at http://www.ekwb.com/support/ and they will send you the right hardware.


----------



## Malik

project GRAY


----------



## aka13

I am pretty sure that connecting cpu-gpu waterblock that way dramatically reduces flow and puts unecessary load on the pump.


----------



## Vindicare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I'm using it but with acrylic tubes so I can't help you about a possible reaction with the Advanced LRT but I would be surprised since this tubing is the one to use if you want to avoid plasticizer issues. And after only 3 days I don't think any tube would plasticize that fast.
> 
> Did you flushed your radiators before putting them to the loop?
> 
> Is this a new loop or did it had any other coolant in it before?
> That's possible but unfortunate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just open a ticket at http://www.ekwb.com/support/ and they will send you the right hardware.


Rad is an alphacool, i used mayhems part1 on it before mounting.

It's a new loop, used mayhems part2, flushed everything out and then ek coolant.

tubes got cloudy the fist time, flushed everything changed the tubing, got ek clear coolant in it again.

after 3 days water is cloudy (also in reservoir).

flushed everything again lol, im now only with disttiled water, ordered some stuff to go to hard tubing i give up on rubber tubes .....


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> Rad is an alphacool, i used mayhems part1 on it before mounting.
> 
> It's a new loop, used mayhems part2, flushed everything out and then ek coolant.
> 
> tubes got cloudy the fist time, flushed everything changed the tubing, got ek clear coolant in it again.
> 
> after 3 days water is cloudy (also in reservoir).
> 
> flushed everything again lol, im now only with disttiled water, ordered some stuff to go to hard tubing i give up on rubber tubes .....


it could be the foam remaning from mayhems parts2 ,people use more than 1 gallon disttilled after using part2 to flush.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> Rad is an alphacool, i used mayhems part1 on it before mounting.
> 
> It's a new loop, used mayhems part2, flushed everything out and then ek coolant.
> 
> tubes got cloudy the fist time, flushed everything changed the tubing, got ek clear coolant in it again.
> 
> after 3 days water is cloudy (also in reservoir).
> 
> flushed everything again lol, im now only with disttiled water, ordered some stuff to go to hard tubing i give up on rubber tubes .....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> it could be the foam remaning from mayhems parts2 ,people use more than 1 gallon disttilled after using part2 to flush.


What ozzy1925 said is a good possibility.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I am pretty sure that connecting cpu-gpu waterblock that way dramatically reduces flow and puts unecessary load on the pump.


It's not the first time I see this kind of cpu/gpu parallel setup and it's not that bad on performances.

@Malik Beautiful build as always!!!


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Is it possible that my FC970 GTX WF3 full block was shipped with the wrong hardware included? I went to install the block this morning and none of the supplied screws fit the block. All of them are too big and they don't even start to thread.


I believe EK is having problems with the 970 WF3 blocks. I ordered a plexi wf3 block and the label said it was plexi. When i opened the box. It was a black acetal version so i sent it back to PPCs. Then when I got the correct block. None of the screws fit so now im waiting on PPCS to get the correct screws. Also my EK ddc heatsink was provides with the incorect size allen wrench for some reason.


----------



## laxboimike

Added a second loop to my Enthoo Primo build and a Aquero 6 XT to control it all! What u think!!! All EK of course =)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laxboimike*
> 
> Added a second loop to my Enthoo Primo build and a Aquero 6 XT to control it all! What u think!!! All EK of course =)


There is a lot going on in there.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> Does anyone here use EK clear coolant?
> 
> Do you have any adverse reaction to primochill advanced lrt tubing?
> 
> in just 3 days my tubing is like this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> could that be plasticizer?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using it but with acrylic tubes so I can't help you about a possible reaction with the Advanced LRT but I would be surprised since this tubing is the one to use if you want to avoid plasticizer issues. And after only 3 days I don't think any tube would plasticize that fast.
> 
> Did you flushed your radiators before putting them to the loop?
> 
> Is this a new loop or did it had any other coolant in it before?
Click to expand...

PC Advanced LRT is not at all above having issues with plasticizer leeching. Typically it is a heat issue. The warmer the coolant is the more prone to leeching the tubing is.

There is proof in the plasticizer thread about the issue related to Advance LRT and wermad was one of the first members using it and posting about it leeching. I used PC LRT and have stepped away from flex tubing because of this issue. I would rather save my money for upgrades rather than spending money on replacing tubing monthly. Because unless you're not OC'ing you 're likely to see the plasticizer monster quite frequently. But what would be the point of WC'ing if there is no need for chillier temps.









~Ceadder


----------



## JourneymanMike

Just signed up for the EK Club!

1- EK-Supremacy EVO RED Edition CSQ Nickle Acetal CPU block
1- EK-FB ASUS C5F-Z fullboard block
1- EK-D5X-RES TOP 140 CSQ
1- 250 Res Tube for the above
1- EK-CoolStream RAD XTX 240 dual
1- EK-CoolStream RAD XTX 360 dual

Sorry! I have a different brand for my R9 290X's...


Spoiler: Pics of my EK stuff!













Now, can I join the Club?


----------



## Ceadderman

Take em off! Take em off! Take them boxes off!









~Ceadder


----------



## smicha

Just signed to EK Club


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Take em off! Take em off! Take them boxes off!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Wow! A computer component Striptease!









I've already had them in a build and am currently changing the orientation of my CaseLabs SM8 case I will show off more later.


----------



## AcidNfection

Hey all! Just about done with my new EK watercooling setup!! Just down to the last bit and unsure if this is correct to buy or not. Can i get some help from the community please?! Would this tube and compression fittings work together good?

http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/schlaeuche/schlaeuche/11018/masterkleer-schlauch-pvc-15-9/11-1mm-7/16-id-uv-aktiv-dark-red?c=362

http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/anschluesse/anschluss-sets/1613mm/6889/16/13mm-anschraubtuelle-g1/4-kompakt-black-nickel?c=12638

I need to know if the ID for both is compatible.

Thx again!!


----------



## Rahldrac

How long does it normally take before EK ships the goods? I am used to companies shipping wares the same day that I order them on. But It has been two days now, and nothing has changed (Ordered early Friday). Just hope that they did not lie about the WF3 nickle being in stock.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> How long does it normally take before EK ships the goods? I am used to companies shipping wares the same day that I order them on. But It has been two days now, and nothing has changed (Ordered early Friday). Just hope that they did not lie about the WF3 nickle being in stock.


It can take a few days of processing before the items are being shipped.


----------



## Vindicare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It can take a few days of processing before the items are being shipped.


omg really?

i'm also waiting on some parts


----------



## Freaxy

I also ordered a couple days ago, but also ordered the backplates for the WF3 and I haven't seen those in stock yet.
Maybe that's holding up the orders.


----------



## Rahldrac

Just 2 hours after I posted the comment I got a mail that they have been sent!


----------



## Freaxy

Just checked my spam mail.. seems gmail registered it as spam.
And it is what I expected, backplates aren't in stock. They are expected 15th of January.
I can't wait hehe


----------



## Leyaena

I know it's been asked many many times already, but do you happen to have an update on the 980 Classy blocks?
I've really been itching to see what these cards can do when given free rein


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> I know it's been asked many many times already, but do you happen to have an update on the 980 Classy blocks?
> I've really been itching to see what these cards can do when given free rein


+1 to this, I want to give the Vardar fans a try too !


----------



## jsco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Do you have any pics of the blocks lit up?





Edit: This is with 2x 3mm white LEDs in each of the GPU blocks. There are two holes in the bridge for 3mm LEDs also, but I didn't use them.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: This is with 2x 3mm white LEDs in each of the GPU blocks. There are two holes in the bridge for 3mm LEDs also, but I didn't use them.


nice where did you hide the cables?


----------



## jsco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> nice where did you hide the cables?


Carefully.












In the first pics, you can see the CPU cable sneaking down underneath the topmost GPU. All the cables run underneath the GPUs, between the PCIe connectors and the rear panel.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> Carefully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the first pics, you can see the CPU cable sneaking down underneath the topmost GPU. All the cables run underneath the GPUs, between the PCIe connectors and the rear panel.










I like this idea A LOT

The Cautious One


----------



## Sir Beregond

Got an email today that EK has shipped those missing springs for my EVO. I wonder how long it will take to get here since it looks like its coming from Slovenia?









Anyway, everybody was friendly and straightforward in the support process. Thanks EK.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> Carefully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the first pics, you can see the CPU cable sneaking down underneath the topmost GPU. All the cables run underneath the GPUs, between the PCIe connectors and the rear panel.


really good job


----------



## jsco

thanks! i can't imagine not lighting these plexi blocks. they're so damned pretty.

i kind of had fun making the custom cables, but i think there's plenty of room to run individual premade cables for each LED under the cards.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Beregond*
> 
> Got an email today that EK has shipped those missing springs for my EVO. I wonder how long it will take to get here since it looks like its coming from Slovenia?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, everybody was friendly and straightforward in the support process. Thanks EK.


Usually they ship via DHL which is pretty quick.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> I know it's been asked many many times already, but do you happen to have an update on the 980 Classy blocks?
> I've really been itching to see what these cards can do when given free rein


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> +1 to this, I want to give the Vardar fans a try too !


Suppose to be before the end of this month


----------



## REAPER XD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Beregond*
> 
> Got an email today that EK has shipped those missing springs for my EVO. I wonder how long it will take to get here since it looks like its coming from Slovenia?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, everybody was friendly and straightforward in the support process. Thanks EK.


I'm in Australia and when EK sent me the wrong backplate for my X-TOP the parcel arrived with in 3 days.


----------



## emsj86

Will this damage my ek gpu nickel acyel 780 block


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Will this damage my ek gpu nickel acyel 780 block


why would it? I have the regular acetal full 780 blocks (x2), and use the dead water. Came with my cpu kit from frozencpu. Haven't had any problems.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Will this damage my ek gpu nickel acyel 780 block


There has been some testing that indicates the increased possibility of damage or staining of Nickel blocks using copper sulphate. EK had some testing done and Mayhems did some more recent testing.


----------



## Tunz

What would be the best jet plate for the Supremacy Evo running naked die 4790k?


----------



## VSG

Hmm.. Give I1/J3 a try and see. Just a hunch based on everything I have seen so far though!


----------



## Tunz

Will do. Thanks VSG!


----------



## VSG

If you have time, perhaps ask Akira to get more info from EK directly? Who knows- they may have a solution that is different and better.


----------



## Tunz

Yeah I'll send him a pm. I have to order a few things from FrozenCPU so I was going to pick up the J3 plate anyways.


----------



## REAPER XD

I really need to buy a GTX 780 Ti DCUII block off the EKWB website but the shipping here is $51 AUD... That's insane for just a block and a backplate... Is there anything cheaper..?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: This is with 2x 3mm white LEDs in each of the GPU blocks. There are two holes in the bridge for 3mm LEDs also, but I didn't use them.


Looks really good


----------



## Domiro

What port on the EK-FB GA Z87X-OC Force is the inlet/outlet?

Nothing in the documentation and google isn't being helpful.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> What port on the EK-FB GA Z87X-OC Force is the inlet/outlet?
> 
> Nothing in the documentation and google isn't being helpful.


In the step 6 of the instruction sheet..._*"You can use any opening as an inlet/outlet port"*_


----------



## Domiro

What a fool I am. Cheers!

Edit;

The block looks incredible.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> In the step 6 of the instruction sheet..._*"You can use any opening as an inlet/outlet port"*_


Um...that's not what she said...


----------



## Yey09

Anyone have an idea if the EK Bridge will work on different EK blocks of different GPU cards?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Anyone have an idea if the EK Bridge will work on different EK blocks of different GPU cards?


Which EK Bridge?


----------



## jsco

since we're talking bridges, i have a question. is there any trick or combination of fittings that would let me use both top ports on that parallel 3-way terminal bridge and keep both connections looking identical from the side? the port which is normally plugged has a countersunk shoulder that lets the plug sit flush with the top edge. unfortunately, this shoulder means that a normal fitting's o-ring can't seal on that port, so a spacer is needed. EK's 3mm spacer ring does not fit inside, and even if it did, the EK rigid tubing connectors i'm using don't have enough thread length to get more than about 1/3 of a turn of bite in the block threads. EK's extender socket works, but it leaves an extra 5mm protrusion, which makes the two top fittings different lengths, which looks dumb. short of machining the block or making my own fittings, is there any way to make two nice, symmetrical connections to the top of this bridge?


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Which EK Bridge?


Not sure actually but currently I have an EK GTX770 DC2OC block and planning to put also for my EVGA 970 FTW when it's available. which bridge will work or is it possible to have two different block to use a bridge?

edit: or maybe three different blocks, I have a GTX 780 on AIO, if possible I want to bridge those three.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Not sure actually but currently I have an EK GTX770 DC2OC block and planning to put also for my EVGA 970 FTW when it's available. which bridge will work or is it possible to have two different block to use a bridge?
> 
> edit: or maybe three different blocks, I have a GTX 780 on AIO, if possible I want to bridge those three.


Since the GTX 770 DCII has a taller PCB you won't be able to fit any card with a standard height PCB like the 970 FTW. So no bridge possibility.


----------



## Ceadderman

What's he planning on Cooling? AMD or Intel? I would think Intel, given the current state of things but never know it could be AMD. I believe that I have seen a difference in which plate to run based on testing with specific CPU setups. Maybe I am wrong?

~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

You all know what I feel like doing? Tearing down my system and selling my 4770k, and putting my 6GB 780 in the new build







... And building an X99 system for the fun of watercooling. I don't even program or design, but just for the shear power of gaming and what not haha


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> You all know what I feel like doing? Tearing down my system and selling my 4770k, and putting my 6GB 780 in the new build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... And building an X99 system for the fun of watercooling. I don't even program or design, but just for the shear power of gaming and what not haha


Tell me about it. I hope AMD catches up to X99 (in terms of quad channel DDR4, more PCIE lanes) soon before I switch to the bright side


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Tell me about it. I hope AMD catches up to X99 (in terms of quad channel DDR4, more PCIE lanes) soon before I switch to the bright side


If not soon, definitely by the end of 2015. Only down side is spending $300-400 more for the same Size of RAM. ~$500 for RAM is ridiculous haha.


----------



## Archea47

On a happier note, my new Ek

Evo is gorgeous







it's also quicker to bleed than the original Supremacy


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> On a happier note, my new Ek
> 
> Evo is gorgeous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's also quicker to bleed than the original Supremacy


How you figure? I feel that the insert for the Supremacy Evo causes it to retain fluid inside.

The Cautious One


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> How you figure? I feel that the insert for the Supremacy Evo causes it to retain fluid inside.
> 
> The Cautious One


On the Supremacy I would get a big air bubble at the top and have to tip the case almost 90* for it to get sucked out. With the Evo there's only tiny bubbles left without tipping. That was my experience at least repeatedly filling and draining over the weekend (first half with Supremacy, then Evo)


----------



## Rahldrac

Potato picture. But I am excited!
Had to open them up to check that the stuff I got was in there (rules from the delivery company).

The blue one is EK-XRES DCP 4.0 PWM (Incl. Pump)


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Just open a ticket at http://www.ekwb.com/support/ and they will send you the right hardware.


Thanks. I opened a ticket and replied back with some photos.

When I was taking the photos I noticed this spot on the block and wasn't sure if it's normal or a problem. That mark in the middle of the raised rectangle looks like a small hole and directly under that spot is the screw.

Figured I should verify to be on the safe side.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Thanks. I opened a ticket and replied back with some photos.
> 
> When I was taking the photos I noticed this spot on the block and wasn't sure if it's normal or a problem. That mark in the middle of the raised rectangle looks like a small hole and directly under that spot is the screw.
> 
> Figured I should verify to be on the safe side.


Good question, did you expressed your concern about it in the ticket? If not, I would add it if I were you.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Good question, did you expressed your concern about it in the ticket? If not, I would add it if I were you.


Yes, I made sure to add that photo and ask in the ticket.

I was hoping someone else here had the same block and saw the photo.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Yes, I made sure to add that photo and ask in the ticket.
> 
> I was hoping someone else here had the same block and saw the photo.


ok


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@akira749 do you know if EK will make an original CSQ full waterblock for the the 970s? And for what model numbers by EVGA? Just seeing what the word is...

TCO


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @akira749 do you know if EK will make an original CSQ full waterblock for the the 970s? And for what model numbers by EVGA? Just seeing what the word is...
> 
> TCO


I don't know sorry. I will try to find out but I can't promise you anything.


----------



## Winrahr

Then...


(Worklog)

Now...



(Worklog)


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> If not soon, definitely by the end of 2015. Only down side is spending $300-400 more for the same Size of RAM. ~$500 for RAM is ridiculous haha.


nah u can get great kits of 16gb for 300 and less. Just gotta keep an eye out for sales


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## LinkPro

Please sign me in







EK Supremacy EVO Nickel-Acetal CPU block, EK-Res X3 150 Reservoir and EK DDC 3.2 PWM Pump with Clear Top. My case couldn't fit the 64mm EK rad in p/p so I had to forgo it.



However I feel like something is wrong. I'm running an i7 4770k at 4.5 GHz/1.25V. It is at about 28C idle and in IBT I'm getting 73C/68C on the hottest/coolest cores which seems quite hot for a custom loop. But compared to my old cooler (Noctua NH-U12S) my idle temps drop by ~8C and IBT load temps ~20C, same ambient temps and everything. So is it working as intended or should I be worried that I messed up somewhere?


----------



## <[email protected]> (CS:S King)

Made a mount for the EK combo. EK really needs to come up with a simple floor mount like this


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *<[email protected]> (CS:S King)*
> 
> Made a mount for the EK combo. EK really needs to come up with a simple floor mount like this


Nice work! Did you consider adding any type of rubber material under the stand to reduce any possible vibration from the chassis?


----------



## <[email protected]> (CS:S King)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Nice work! Did you consider adding any type of rubber material under the stand to reduce any possible vibration from the chassis?


Nope

Didnt have any soft washers laying around. Getting that thing torqued down was a pain since the holes on the tabs werent lined up with the top holes. Its basically EK's original mounting plate thats been hacked up with 4 scrap metal 90 deg tabs welded on. The tabs are pretty thick so its rock solid. I can pick it up by the pump housing and shake my case around lol, that said its a 915R + 935. Hopefully it will be done within a week.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow! I can't wait to see it finished.


----------



## DeviousAddict

Hey guys, I have a quick question.

I'm in the process of buying 2 fullcover water blocks for my cards (EK R9 290X Vapor X) and i was wondering which bridge would be best?

I'm guessing i'll need a 3 slot bridge but do i go with the Parralel or sequential one?

Link to a Stock picture of my board so you can tell me if i've pick the right size bridge http://cdn4.wccftech.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Without-Sticker-Mobo-MSI-X79A-GD65.jpg


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a quick question.
> 
> I'm in the process of buying 2 fullcover water blocks for my cards (EK R9 290X Vapor X) and i was wondering which bridge would be best?
> 
> I'm guessing i'll need a 3 slot bridge but do i go with the Parralel or sequential one?
> 
> Link to a Stock picture of my board so you can tell me if i've pick the right size bridge http://cdn4.wccftech.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Without-Sticker-Mobo-MSI-X79A-GD65.jpg


What you will need is the Dual 3-Slots version.

EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel 3-Slot

OR

EK-FC Terminal DUAL Serial 3-Slot

I posted the Acetal version but they both exist in Plexi versions too.

As for the Serial vs Parallel question, it's totally a personnal choice. Some vouch for Serial some for Parallel. The performance difference isn't that big.


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> do i go with the Parralel or sequential one?


Yes, 3-slot is the right one. Between parallel or serial, both should perform quite alike. I'd choose the one that has the inlet and outlet(s) which fit better your tubing routing inside the tower.

Check "Step3" here: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868089.pdf


----------



## DeviousAddict

I've picked the clear ek-fc bridge but noticed this warning at the bottom...Please note:
- The FC Terminals are not compatible with original CSQ design full cover water blocks!

Will the work with these ok?http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-vaporx-nickel.html


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> I've picked the clear ek-fc bridge but noticed this warning at the bottom...Please note:
> - The FC Terminals are not compatible with original CSQ design full cover water blocks!
> 
> Will the work with these ok?http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-vaporx-nickel.html


No it won't work.

All product descriptions have warnings: EK-FC R9-290X VaporX - Nickel

_Up to four EK-FC R9-290X VaporX water blocks can be used on a single ATX form factor motherboard by using EK-FC Terminal (DUAL, TRIPLE or QUAD type) system or other means of interconnectivity. *Please note that EK-FC Bridge & Link system is not compatible with this water block.*_


----------



## DeviousAddict

Oh drat. Since they're the only full cover water blocks that will fit my cards, what connection do I need? I really wanted a clear one so I can see the coolant


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> Oh drat. Since they're the only full cover water blocks that will fit my cards, what connection do I need? I really wanted a clear one so I can see the coolant


EK-FC Terminal DUAL Serial 3-Slot - Plexi

or

EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel 3-Slot - Plexi


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> I've picked the clear ek-fc bridge but noticed this warning at the bottom...Please note:
> - The FC Terminals are not compatible with original CSQ design full cover water blocks!
> 
> Will the work with these ok?http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-vaporx-nickel.html


Yes it will fit perfectly









In reference the my previous post
Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a quick question.
> 
> I'm in the process of buying 2 fullcover water blocks for my cards (EK R9 290X Vapor X) and i was wondering which bridge would be best?
> 
> I'm guessing i'll need a 3 slot bridge but do i go with the Parralel or sequential one?
> 
> Link to a Stock picture of my board so you can tell me if i've pick the right size bridge http://cdn4.wccftech.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Without-Sticker-Mobo-MSI-X79A-GD65.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> What you will need is the Dual 3-Slots version.
> 
> EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel 3-Slot
> 
> OR
> 
> EK-FC Terminal DUAL Serial 3-Slot
> 
> I posted the Acetal version but they both exist in Plexi versions too.
> 
> As for the Serial vs Parallel question, it's totally a personnal choice. Some vouch for Serial some for Parallel. The performance difference isn't that big.
Click to expand...


----------



## aerotracks

Took a photo of my system, EK on CPU and GPUs









http://www.directupload.net


----------



## DeviousAddict

Awesome thanks guys







+rep to both of you


----------



## Rahldrac

So I am installing the thermalpads on my Gigabyte 970 WF3. And the manual says that you should take some TIM under the thermalpads? Do you all do this?

http://www.techspot.com/articles-info/885/images/Image_04S.jpg

Also, I am suppose to have one big thermalpad covering all the small ones to the left of this image, should I take a dot on these two? The manual states on the phase regulators? Are they all phase regulators?

Thanks.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> So I am installing the thermalpads on my Gigabyte 970 WF3. And the manual says that you should take some TIM under the thermalpads? Do you all do this?
> 
> http://www.techspot.com/articles-info/885/images/Image_04S.jpg
> 
> Also, I am suppose to have one big thermalpad covering all the small ones to the left of this image, should I take a dot on these two? The manual states on the phase regulators? Are they all phase regulators?
> 
> Thanks.


EK recommends it. Will you be fine without it...yes.


----------



## aka13

Althoug, if you take a look at the inner construction of the waterblock,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> So I am installing the thermalpads on my Gigabyte 970 WF3. And the manual says that you should take some TIM under the thermalpads? Do you all do this?
> 
> http://www.techspot.com/articles-info/885/images/Image_04S.jpg
> 
> Also, I am suppose to have one big thermalpad covering all the small ones to the left of this image, should I take a dot on these two? The manual states on the phase regulators? Are they all phase regulators?
> 
> Thanks.


If you want, you can check out how I did it with my 970 Strix. I made the photos ov every step I took.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1531651/build-log-corsair-air-540-the-liquid-540/20#post_23387371


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *<[email protected]> (CS:S King)*
> 
> Made a mount for the EK combo. EK really needs to come up with a simple floor mount like this


I know ek should. But for the time being phanteks sells one. I just bought one it mounts both ddc and d5. I will mod it for better air flow though


----------



## Mark Huntsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerotracks*
> 
> Took a photo of my system, EK on CPU and GPUs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.directupload.net


Is it me, or is that top tube coming from the back of case kinked a bit?
If it is, haven't you considered adding 90° fitting there, before or after the quick disconnect to prevent kinking?


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark Huntsman*
> 
> Is it me, or is that top tube coming from the back of case kinked a bit?
> If it is, haven't you considered adding 90° fitting there, before or after the quick disconnect to prevent kinking?


Yep i second that


----------



## aerotracks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark Huntsman*
> 
> Is it me, or is that top tube coming from the back of case kinked a bit?
> If it is, haven't you considered adding 90° fitting there, before or after the quick disconnect to prevent kinking?


Case usually sits a little further back, not kinked there. I pulled it towards the middle of the table for the photo.
The tubes are linked below the table so the upper one gets supported a little.


----------



## HuffT23

Installed the EK-H30 240 HFX Advanced Liquid Cooling Kit for my CPU when I had the Intel i7 870 and then recently made a huge upgrade for my CPU, MOBO, and RAM; if you want to check out my project for when I installed the kit and so forth, I have a build log with all the pics and was pretty sick modding my case to fit the 240 rad flush to the top of my case so there is a push/pull config having it right beneath my 200mm fan on my Antec V3 Ultimate Gaming Case. Upgraded CPU to Intel i7 4790k, MOBO to ASUS Sabertooth Z97 Mark 1 TUF thermal armor babayy, and RAM to Corsair Vengeance DDR3-2400 16gb (2x 8gb sticks)







Loving this EK-Kit because I can if I wanted just add any GPU to the loop, but am going to add at least a 120 rad for my new GPU when I get it and some sweet water block when I find a sick looking one (I want a clear one so you can see the UV liquid in it) and of course one that is proper. Since the card (GPU) I want right now is the GTX 970 and doesn't have very many options for the water blocks.


----------



## DeviousAddict

Hey guys I have another question








I bought the ek 240 kit last year and im about to add 2gpus to the loop. Are the pump, rez and rad that came with the kit going to be good enough?
I'm not to fussed about uber temps, I'm just fed up of loud gpu coolers and want my build to look neat, plus water Cooling looks sweet








Cheers


----------



## Mark Huntsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> Hey guys I have another question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought the ek 240 kit last year and im about to add 2gpus to the loop. Are the pump, rez and rad that came with the kit going to be good enough?
> I'm not to fussed about uber temps, I'm just fed up of loud gpu coolers and want my build to look neat, plus water Cooling looks sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers


Minimal suggested rad space is 120 per component, and 240 per overclocked component, so you will need at least single 120 rad more, I would suggest another 360 if you van fit it in your case. And the more rad space you can get, the better, as it allows you to run slower rpm fans on lower fin density rads and have overall quieter system.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark Huntsman*
> 
> Minimal suggested rad space is 120 per component, and 240 per overclocked component, so you will need at least single 120 rad more, I would suggest another 360 if you van fit it in your case. And the more rad space you can get, the better, as it allows you to run slower rpm fans on lower fin density rads and have overall quieter system.


One radiator fan position per cooled component, PLUS one more, is the general rule of


----------



## SteezyTN

I have a total of 7 120mm fan/radiator spaces in my loop consisting of a 4770k and two 6GB 780's. With fans at 1300-1500, my water temps reach 35-40c (not hardware).


----------



## Yungbenny911

Will the MSI Gaming GTX 980 ever get it's waterblock released? It's been grayed out for months


----------



## jsco

just can't handle how nice these blocks look.


----------



## HuffT23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> just can't handle how nice these blocks look.


Loveee it... the LEDs with the clear blocks and connector are awesome







I'm just going with clear waterblocks so that my UV liquid stands out, can't wait for a LEGIT waterblock to come out for the EVGA GTX 970/980


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> Will the MSI Gaming GTX 980 ever get it's waterblock released? It's been grayed out for months


It's coming but I have no precise ETA for you sorry


----------



## jsco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HuffT23*
> 
> can't wait for a LEGIT waterblock to come out for the EVGA GTX 970/980


maybe i'm missing what you're saying, but these are EVGA GTX 980 SC ATX cards, which just take reference blocks. they fit perfectly.


----------



## HuffT23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> maybe i'm missing what you're saying, but these are EVGA GTX 980 SC ATX cards, which just take reference blocks. they fit perfectly.


Yea I wanna get the EVGA GTX 970 but haven't been able to find the clear looking waterblock that's top of the line... any help? And I noticed that the main part that you see is underneath the card... are their full cover water blocks that you can see on top of the gpu too?? I don't care for LEDs in any of my components... just want the clear kind for seeing my UV liquid that's all


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> just can't handle how nice these blocks look.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm not an LED guy but that's too cool jsco


----------



## HuffT23

Dam I am assuming there's no way to see the part that's water cooled because it's on the bottom aka top of the card, so unless I have a case where everything is upside down ( not normal configuration ) I won't be able to see the liquid cooling going on









Here's my current setup...


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> Will the MSI Gaming GTX 980 ever get it's waterblock released? It's been grayed out for months
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's coming but I have no precise ETA for you sorry
Click to expand...









I've been unable to move forward with completing my build for so long. Now i'm thinking of just selling the GPU and getting something else with a waterblock. Oh well, i'll try to wait a bit longer. I doubt it would be out in two months smh.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been unable to move forward with completing my build for so long. Now i'm thinking of just selling the GPU and getting something else with a waterblock. Oh well, i'll try to wait a bit longer. I doubt it would be out in two months smh.


I feel your pain. I have an X99 setup that still wait for it's GPU's and i'm waiting for the next release of waterblocks to make my choice.


----------



## Lightgrabber

Hello to you EK users.
A small question.
which of the two pumps is better for a quiet Build?

EK-XRES 100 D5 PWM or EK-XRES DCP 4.0 PWM

1x 240mm Radiator 1x EK-Supremacy EVO 1x EK-FC670


----------



## jsco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HuffT23*
> 
> Dam I am assuming there's no way to see the part that's water cooled because it's on the bottom aka top of the card, so unless I have a case where everything is upside down ( not normal configuration ) I won't be able to see the liquid cooling going on


yeah, exactly. in a standard tower configuration, all you see is the side of the GPU blocks. it's a shame. i want to see the fluid and the machining!

my cheesy solution is to put a mirror on top of the power supply. this is just one i had laying around; i'm cutting one to fit the whole area and look like it belongs there.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lightgrabber*
> 
> Hello to you EK users.
> A small question.
> which of the two pumps is better for a quiet Build?
> 
> EK-XRES 100 D5 PWM or EK-XRES DCP 4.0 PWM
> 
> 1x 240mm Radiator 1x EK-Supremacy EVO 1x EK-FC670


D5 pumps are very quiet pumps


----------



## Sir Beregond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> D5 pumps are very quiet pumps


I agree. Once you've bled out all the small bubles you tend to get when first putting the loop together, the D5 is virtually silent. I have mine on the "2" setting and cannot hear it.


----------



## korruptedkaos

hi guys

dont know if anyone remembers me saying about laser engraving acrylic tubes a lil bit ago?

finally got to try it & had to do some rigging/jigging to get it to work haha









well the 12/10 tube lost any flex & snapped really easy as seen in the pic. i got some 12/8 tube today & going to do a new round of testing soon











i need to make a flat coloured bitmap to get a uniformed engaved thickness & tweak my power settings etc but i still think it can work?

the engraved area i plan on wiping an acryic or enamel paint into. maybe UV paint if it would work?

testing testing







ill let you know how it goes if anyone is interested


----------



## inedenimadam

have you considered etching instead of engraving?

disregard my assumption that acrylic could be chemically etched like metal


----------



## jsco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> well the 12/10 tube lost any flex & snapped really easy as seen in the pic.


the internet tells me that laser cutting can make acrylic very brittle in the heat affected zone. you should try annealing your tubes after etching them!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> hi guys
> 
> dont know if anyone remembers me saying about laser engraving acrylic tubes a lil bit ago?
> 
> finally got to try it & had to do some rigging/jigging to get it to work haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well the 12/10 tube lost any flex & snapped really easy as seen in the pic. i got some 12/8 tube today & going to do a new round of testing soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i need to make a flat coloured bitmap to get a uniformed engaved thickness & tweak my power settings etc but i still think it can work?
> 
> the engraved area i plan on wiping an acryic or enamel paint into. maybe UV paint if it would work?
> 
> testing testing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ill let you know how it goes if anyone is interested


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> the internet tells me that laser cutting can make acrylic very brittle in the heat affected zone. you should try annealing your tubes after etching them!


If the heat is the problem then there should be no problems using other means of engraving. Have you considered doing it by hand?I have engraved several acrylic surfaces with a dremmel (the small kind that you have full control over), if not then a layer of "frosted" Vinyl would also work. just if you need alternatives.


----------



## LOKI23NY

So while I'm working with EK to figure out the issue with the screws, I had an idea about the small imperfection on the block and wanted to see if this is a good idea.

Would it be ok to hook the block to the tap and run water through it to see if the spot leaks or not? I'm assuming that the water from the tap flowing through the block would be enough to let me know if this is just a cosmetic issue.

First time using a full block and I just want to make sure I'm covering all my bases


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> have you considered etching instead of engraving?
> 
> disregard my assumption that acrylic could be chemically etched like metal


you actually could using a solvent








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> the internet tells me that laser cutting can make acrylic very brittle in the heat affected zone. you should try annealing your tubes after etching them!


already thought of doing that, but tbh its a bit unpractical to stop it warping etc







with this thicker tube it may be possible?

the main problem i think i had is such a small wall thickness of 1mm. plus the bitmap i was using engraved to deep in the centers of the pattern.

im just experimenting with the idea atm & its just an idea i had. wether it will work or not idk
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> If the heat is the problem then there should be no problems using other means of engraving. Have you considered doing it by hand?I have engraved several acrylic surfaces with a dremmel (the small kind that you have full control over), if not then a layer of "frosted" Vinyl would also work. just if you need alternatives.


i dont have the talent or patience to do something like this by hand haha. also using vinyl is erm going to be fiddly









another thing? which kind of paint do you think will work best for rubbing into the engraved area? im thinking enamel? but if anybody has any reccomendations on paint that doesnt adhere to quick & can be wiped off easily without using any kind of paint remover. pls let us know









EDIT: i posted this in the wrong thread







this should be in the watercooling club thread, sorry EK


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> So while I'm working with EK to figure out the issue with the screws, I had an idea about the small imperfection on the block and wanted to see if this is a good idea.
> 
> Would it be ok to hook the block to the tap and run water through it to see if the spot leaks or not? I'm assuming that the water from the tap flowing through the block would be enough to let me know if this is just a cosmetic issue.
> 
> First time using a full block and I just want to make sure I'm covering all my bases


just test it & see.

most probably its just pitting in the copper base metal from the nickel plating process.


----------



## Mark Huntsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> So while I'm working with EK to figure out the issue with the screws, I had an idea about the small imperfection on the block and wanted to see if this is a good idea.
> 
> Would it be ok to hook the block to the tap and run water through it to see if the spot leaks or not? I'm assuming that the water from the tap flowing through the block would be enough to let me know if this is just a cosmetic issue.
> 
> First time using a full block and I just want to make sure I'm covering all my bases


Even if there is hole to the screw, the screw itself should be sealed off from the water, so i think it will not leak trough that or anything, because as far as i know (although i dont have one yet) the ek gpu blocks have rubber o rings around all screws going trough the middle of the block.


----------



## HuffT23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> maybe i'm missing what you're saying, but these are EVGA GTX 980 SC ATX cards, which just take reference blocks. they fit perfectly.


Figured it out x_x


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark Huntsman*
> 
> Even if there is hole to the screw, the screw itself should be sealed off from the water, so i think it will not leak trough that or anything, because as far as i know (although i dont have one yet) the ek gpu blocks have rubber o rings around all screws going trough the middle of the block.


Thanks for the info. Just tested it and no issues with that spot. Flipping the block over and looking closely it looks like this close enough to the edge where it water wouldn't even be flowing.


----------



## Nichismo

Made a few minor changes to the build, and took some better pictures of it to boot


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Made a few minor changes to the build, and took some better pictures of it to boot


Looks awesome! Great work


----------



## AcidNfection

Hey all, got a question I need help getting answered. I purchased the EK-Res X3 400 reservoir (The big one!) And i am using distilled water to run through it. I would like to light up the water in the cylinder reservoir without adding that gummy crap which clogs up the blocks. Is that any sort of waterproof light available that is attached to the fill cap on top of the cylinder or something? Thanks!!


----------



## <[email protected]> (CS:S King)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> Hey all, got a question I need help getting answered. I purchased the EK-Res X3 400 reservoir (The big one!) And i am using distilled water to run through it. I would like to light up the water in the cylinder reservoir without adding that gummy crap which clogs up the blocks. Is that any sort of waterproof light available that is attached to the fill cap on top of the cylinder or something? Thanks!!


Something like this id imagine

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c569/s1759/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings-Monsoon-Monsoon-LED_Plugs-Page1.html


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *<[email protected]> (CS:S King)*
> 
> Something like this id imagine
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c569/s1759/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings-Monsoon-Monsoon-LED_Plugs-Page1.html


Yes! Perfect! Thanks a million!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> Hey all, got a question I need help getting answered. I purchased the EK-Res X3 400 reservoir (The big one!) And i am using distilled water to run through it. I would like to light up the water in the cylinder reservoir without adding that gummy crap which clogs up the blocks. Is that any sort of waterproof light available that is attached to the fill cap on top of the cylinder or something? Thanks!!


If you put an acrylic stop plug with a 5mm hole on it on the top port of your reservoir with a 5mm LED in your choice of color it will do the job.


----------



## jsco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *<[email protected]> (CS:S King)*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c569/s1759/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings-Monsoon-Monsoon-LED_Plugs-Page1.html


these monsoon plugs SUCK REAL BAD. the clear windows are glued in with hope and wishes and not much else. read the reviews on frozencpu and beware.

these, on the other hand, are great:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6943/ex-tub-167/Bitspower_Lighted_Crystal_LED_G14_Plug_without_LED_BP-ACSTI-BK.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13686/ex-tub-978/FrozenCPU_Lighted_Crystal_LED_G38_Plug_without_LED.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> Then...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Worklog
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Now...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Worklog)


I would get another 6pin and connect separately from the first on that GPU. Especially if you intend to







that card.









~Ceadder


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would get another 6pin and connect separately from the first on that GPU. Especially if you intend to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Isn't that sort of a myth? I mean, I do understand that it matters on the pcb itself, but as long as the PSU is able to provide, how can the wire be the problem? Let's take a maxwell card, and assume it pulls 300V @12V. That would mean 25A of current. We have 3 parallel 12V lines, so that would make about 8A per line. Now, I do not see how the default wire would get problems with that. And that means, you can just do it as he did, no?


----------



## Winrahr

Also it's actually not possible on the SX-600G because you only get a single 8pin output that splits into two 6+2pins


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> these monsoon plugs SUCK REAL BAD. the clear windows are glued in with hope and wishes and not much else. read the reviews on frozencpu and beware.


I've had that issue in the past as well. I've had 3 of those little windows slightly pop out and give me slow leaks.

However!

Geno changed the design since then, and the acrylic window part now entirely covers the entire G1/4 screw thread, so the new ones are completely safe.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Isn't that sort of a myth? I mean, I do understand that it matters on the pcb itself, but as long as the PSU is able to provide, how can the wire be the problem? Let's take a maxwell card, and assume it pulls 300V @12V. That would mean 25A of current. We have 3 parallel 12V lines, so that would make about 8A per line. Now, I do not see how the default wire would get problems with that. And that means, you can just do it as he did, no?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> Also it's actually not possible on the SX-600G because you only get a single 8pin output that splits into two 6+2pins


Yes. The PCIe power cables are already extremely overspecced for AWG 18. Taking Aka13's example: a 300W card gets 75W from the motherboard and has an 8-pin and a 6-pin for the rest. So 6 x 12V lines for 225W. It means each wire is only carrying 3.125 amps. Even doubled up like Winrahr did, it's 6.25 amps at max load.

Is fine


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> just can't handle how nice these blocks look.


Looks amazing, do you have any other pictures of your build?


----------



## <[email protected]> (CS:S King)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> these monsoon plugs SUCK REAL BAD. the clear windows are glued in with hope and wishes and not much else. read the reviews on frozencpu and beware.
> 
> these, on the other hand, are great:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6943/ex-tub-167/Bitspower_Lighted_Crystal_LED_G14_Plug_without_LED_BP-ACSTI-BK.html
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13686/ex-tub-978/FrozenCPU_Lighted_Crystal_LED_G38_Plug_without_LED.html


Youre prolly right, but, since he was requesting to have an LED for his FILL port on top of the tube, i dont think it will be a problem really. Its just gonna see humidity. A quick glue gun tack will solve it.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> Hey all, got a question I need help getting answered. I purchased the EK-Res X3 400 reservoir (The big one!) And i am using distilled water to run through it. I would like to light up the water in the cylinder reservoir without adding that gummy crap which clogs up the blocks. Is that any sort of waterproof light available that is attached to the fill cap on top of the cylinder or something? Thanks!!


I am going to use one of these for my tube reservoirs



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21655/ex-tub-2077w/Primochill_G14_Tower_Stop_Plug_w_5mm_White_LED_Secure_Hold_-_2_.html#blank

I really like how these have rubber around the led to hold it in place because I have had led crack acrylic numerous times after using glue


----------



## jsco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Looks amazing, do you have any other pictures of your build?


thanks! yeah, i'll be posting a build log in a couple weeks. just jumping the gun to post some EK porn in the EK thread.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> I am going to use one of these for my tube reservoirs
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21655/ex-tub-2077w/Primochill_G14_Tower_Stop_Plug_w_5mm_White_LED_Secure_Hold_-_2_.html#blank
> 
> I really like how these have rubber around the led to hold it in place because I have had led crack acrylic numerous times after using glue


Just sold my EK D5 X-RES w/a 250 tube and bought one of these...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/primochill-ctrtm-compression-tube-reservoir-system-phase-2-d5-enabled-240mm-blood-red.html
all because I wanted a Red Res to go with my Red/Black theme...

Maybe the tower stop plug in your post will wok for mine!


----------



## dodgethis

Does anyone know how to contact EK with regards to stock availability? I want to get the 290x Lightning block from them but it's out of stock.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> Also it's actually not possible on the SX-600G because you only get a single 8pin output that splits into two 6+2pins


The cables that come with that PSU can be modded to work properly. I've clipped the 2pin extensions from my 6+2s' w/o issue.

Adding dedicated power over extended power is much better. Especially on a PSU that uses an 80mm fan for cooling. I get that the PSU is manufactured for smaller cases, but it's simply the better way to go imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> I am going to use one of these for my tube reservoirs
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21655/ex-tub-2077w/Primochill_G14_Tower_Stop_Plug_w_5mm_White_LED_Secure_Hold_-_2_.html#blank
> 
> I really like how these have rubber around the led to hold it in place because I have had led crack acrylic numerous times after using glue


Oh, that is cool!! However, I cannot use Frozen PC cause I am located in Germany







I will search and see where I can find one of those in Europe somewhere!! thx for sharing that though!!!


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> Oh, that is cool!! However, I cannot use Frozen PC cause I am located in Germany
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will search and see where I can find one of those in Europe somewhere!! thx for sharing that though!!!


If caseking.de does not have it, no one has it here propably. You'd have to import from usa.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The cables that come with that PSU can be modded to work properly. I've clipped the 2pin extensions from my 6+2s' w/o issue.
> 
> Adding dedicated power over extended power is much better. Especially on a PSU that uses an 80mm fan for cooling. I get that the PSU is manufactured for smaller cases, but it's simply the better way to go imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You misunderstand, there is only a single PCIe output from the SX600-G. The cable has to double up. There is no way to have a dedicated second PCIe cable.


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> If caseking.de does not have it, no one has it here propably. You'd have to import from usa.


Yeah, exactly. Germany sucks ass for computer mod parts. I always have to order from the UK, but shipping time is a bout a week. But, their is no market here for that kind of stuff...or not big enough.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> Yeah, exactly. Germany sucks ass for computer mod parts. I always have to order from the UK, but shipping time is a bout a week. But, their is no market here for that kind of stuff...or not big enough.


What about something like this: Click


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> Oh, that is cool!! However, I cannot use Frozen PC cause I am located in Germany
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will search and see where I can find one of those in Europe somewhere!! thx for sharing that though!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> Yeah, exactly. Germany sucks ass for computer mod parts. I always have to order from the UK, but shipping time is a bout a week. But, their is no market here for that kind of stuff...or not big enough.


The watercooling / modding market isn't so small in Western Europe!







You just need to keep a list of which shops sell what.

http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/reservoirs/reservoir-accessories/lighting/16242/alphacool-plexi-lighting-module-with-cover-g1/4-long-version?c=558
http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/reservoirs/reservoir-accessories/lighting/12887/alphacool-plexi-lighting-module-g1/4-glowlight?c=558

If Aquatuning doesn't have something, try Highflow.nl. If Highflow doesn't have it, email the owner, he is very good with adding new items to his selection.

(I hestitate to recommend Aquatuning in this thread, because they don't carry EK products. That's why I mention Highflow as well.)


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The watercooling / modding market isn't so small in Western Europe!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You just need to keep a list of which shops sell what.
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/reservoirs/reservoir-accessories/lighting/16242/alphacool-plexi-lighting-module-with-cover-g1/4-long-version?c=558
> http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/reservoirs/reservoir-accessories/lighting/12887/alphacool-plexi-lighting-module-g1/4-glowlight?c=558
> 
> If Aquatuning doesn't have something, try Highflow.nl. If Highflow doesn't have it, email the owner, he is very good with adding new items to his selection.
> 
> (I hestitate to recommend Aquatuning in this thread, because they don't carry EK products. That's why I mention Highflow as well.)


Didn't know about highflow nl, thx.


----------



## Rahldrac

So with a little bit of help from you people my two 970 G1 finally have both their full covers on them.
Unfortunately my serial connection did not work, so I thought why not go for a full parallel block.

Then I found this beauty which will go perfectly with my plexi VGA covers.
But It seems like these are not compatible with the newer full cover blocks?

So I guess I will have to use something like this ? Something with CSQ in it's name?
I really can not understand that design choice.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dodgethis*
> 
> Does anyone know how to contact EK with regards to stock availability? I want to get the 290x Lightning block from them but it's out of stock.


You could try [email protected] but i'm not sure they will be able to help you on stock availability. You could also open a ticket HERE.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> So with a little bit of help from you people my two 970 G1 finally have both their full covers on them.
> Unfortunately my serial connection did not work, so I thought why not go for a full parallel block.
> 
> Then I found this beauty which will go perfectly with my plexi VGA covers.
> But It seems like these are not compatible with the newer full cover blocks?
> 
> So I guess I will have to use something like this ? Something with CSQ in it's name?
> I really can not understand that design choice.


I don't know where you heard that this isn't compatible with newer blocks because it isn't true at all. This plexi bridge will fit on the 970WF3 blocks that you have.


----------



## dodgethis

Thanks for the e-mail. I opened a ticket on Monday but there has been no reply yet.


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You could try [email protected] but i'm not sure they will be able to help you on stock availability. You could also open a ticket HERE.
> I don't know where you heard that this isn't compatible with newer blocks because it isn't true at all. This plexi bridge will fit on the 970WF3 blocks that you have.


Thank you for you reply!

It just says at the end of the product description:
Please note:
- The FC Terminals are not compatible with original CSQ design full cover water blocks!

And I thought the EK-FC 970WF3 was a CSQ? The box it came in has a big circle saying: New clean circle design?
Sorry if I am being a bit slow.


----------



## Freaxy

I finished my first water cooling build and I'm quite happy with the result.








The Phanteks Enthoo Primo is an amazing case for this. Fitted the Alphacool monsta 480 push/pull on the bottom and the UT60 push/pull on the top.
Only thing that I disliked was the reservoir bracket. The cutout for the cards in it was too short in height for the 2 cards/3 slots configuration, so I drilled two holes in the motherboard tray for the EK X3 250 reservoir. However 1 GTX 980 G1 with waterblock would fit with the bracket, or even if it's 2 cards in the first 2 PCI-e slots.

The aquaero is awesome too, I got the pumps pwm signal, flowmeter, temp sensor, top rad fans on one channel, bottom rad fans on another and the case fans on the last. Controlling fan speeds on water temp. Pump set on 50%of it's pwm range for a nice quiet computer. Alarms on the flowmeter.
Then the Farbwerk and LED strip to react on water temp.

The water blocks are EK Supremacy EVO and 2 x EK GTX980 WF3 + backplates.

Here's some pics (sorry for the quality, I have no camera other then my Nexus 5's)






The mess-o-cables


Had great fun building it, but damn sore hands


----------



## Archea47

Looking great freaxy, congrats!


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> I finished my first water cooling build and I'm quite happy with the result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Phanteks Enthoo Primo is an amazing case for this. Fitted the Alphacool monsta 480 push/pull on the bottom and the UT60 push/pull on the top.
> Only thing that I disliked was the reservoir bracket. The cutout for the cards in it was too short in height for the 2 cards/3 slots configuration, so I drilled two holes in the motherboard tray for the EK X3 250 reservoir. However 1 GTX 980 G1 with waterblock would fit with the bracket, or even if it's 2 cards in the first 2 PCI-e slots.
> 
> The aquaero is awesome too, I got the pumps pwm signal, flowmeter, temp sensor, top rad fans on one channel, bottom rad fans on another and the case fans on the last. Controlling fan speeds on water temp. Pump set on 50%of it's pwm range for a nice quiet computer. Alarms on the flowmeter.
> Then the Farbwerk and LED strip to react on water temp.
> 
> The water blocks are EK Supremacy EVO and 2 x EK GTX980 WF3 + backplates.
> 
> Here's some pics (sorry for the quality, I have no camera other then my Nexus 5's)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mess-o-cables
> 
> 
> Had great fun building it, but damn sore hands


Damn nice haha. What pump is it? And you're running the whole top pump on one channel on the aquaero?


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Looking great freaxy, congrats!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Damn nice haha. What pump is it? And you're running the whole top pump on one channel on the aquaero?


Thanks both








It's the Swiftech MCP35X, it's powered bij molex but the rpm signal and PWM cable is seperated. So the aquaero doesn't really power the pump, only sends the PWM signal to control the speed.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Thank you for you reply!
> 
> It just says at the end of the product description:
> Please note:
> - The FC Terminals are not compatible with original CSQ design full cover water blocks!
> 
> And I thought the EK-FC 970WF3 was a CSQ? The box it came in has a big circle saying: New clean circle design?
> Sorry if I am being a bit slow.


Yeah it can be confusing in the beginning. What you have is what we can call "Clean CSQ" and the "Original CSQ" is like this block for example.


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yeah it can be confusing in the beginning. What you have is what we can call "Clean CSQ" and the "Original CSQ" is like this block for example.


Thank you for the good news and the explanation!
If I could bother you with another question, since I will be ordering the GPU bridge directly from EK, i thought i might buy some 90 degree fittings at the same time.
But honestly I do not know how 90 degree fittings works. Do they all go on top of normal fittings? And the same with 45 degree fittings?
Sorry for the novice questions, thanks for your patients


----------



## Sir Beregond

Still waiting on my Supremacy EVO springs. Maybe I can get this build done before my birthday heh.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Thank you for the good news and the explanation!
> If I could bother you with another question, since I will be ordering the GPU bridge directly from EK, i thought i might buy some 90 degree fittings at the same time.
> But honestly I do not know how 90 degree fittings works. Do they all go on top of normal fittings? And the same with 45 degree fittings?
> Sorry for the novice questions, thanks for your patients


Yes they do.

Here's a picture of a 90 on GPU and at the end I installed a fitting


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Thank you for the good news and the explanation!
> If I could bother you with another question, since I will be ordering the GPU bridge directly from EK, i thought i might buy some 90 degree fittings at the same time.
> But honestly I do not know how 90 degree fittings works. Do they all go on top of normal fittings? And the same with 45 degree fittings?
> Sorry for the novice questions, thanks for your patients


The 90 and 45 degree fittings go on the actual block, and you add the actual compression/barb to the end of it. Basically you have it right, but the other way around


----------



## emsj86




----------



## Ceadderman

Love those CSQ fittings! If I were gonna use 90* fittings in my Loop, I would be running those.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The cables that come with that PSU can be modded to work properly. I've clipped the 2pin extensions from my 6+2s' w/o issue.
> 
> Adding dedicated power over extended power is much better. Especially on a PSU that uses an 80mm fan for cooling. I get that the PSU is manufactured for smaller cases, but it's simply the better way to go imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You misunderstand, there is only a single PCIe output from the SX600-G. The cable has to double up. There is no way to have a dedicated second PCIe cable.
Click to expand...

I don't know if that is a. Single rail PSU but if it is(replying via phone) then any one of those modular connections should serve as a dedicated line. That's what I use over my 6+2 connection. Apologies. For off topic conversation just finishing it with my







if someone wishes to add theirs in reply, please feel free to PM. I am no expert so please understand that I am no Professor Knoitall and am open to input on any issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> then any one of those modular connections should serve as a dedicated line. That's what I use over my 6+2 connection.


Yes, look normally I would agree with having dedicated PCIe lines









But what we're trying to tell you is this PSU is half size SFX, those only have 5 modular sockets: ATX24, EPS8, PCIe8 (to 8+8), and two Sata/Molex. Presuming you are using at least one of the Sata sockets for drives, then that leaves you only one 12V wire, not enough to make another PCIe connector.


----------



## Benjiw

Ello Everyone,

I'm going to polish my CPU block soon I thinks, has anyone done that here? with pics?


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ello Everyone,
> 
> I'm going to polish my CPU block soon I thinks, has anyone done that here? with pics?


Is the polishing supposed to help with temps?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Anyway back to EK goodness, I'm going to polish my CPU block soon I thinks, has anyone done that here? with pics?


If you're talking about polishing the plexi top of your block then Lowfat did a nice guide









Polishing Acrylic Guide, Tips, & Tricks


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> If you're talking about polishing the plexi top of your block then Lowfat did a nice guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Polishing Acrylic Guide, Tips, & Tricks


I saw a few people referring to polishing cpu blocks as in pokishing the metal contact surface.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> If you're talking about polishing the plexi top of your block then Lowfat did a nice guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Polishing Acrylic Guide, Tips, & Tricks


Thanks for the link, I'm gonna do that myself soon so that helps







(not the one who asked for it but it helps never the less)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I saw a few people referring to polishing cpu blocks as in pokishing the metal contact surface.


I assume you are referring to the process of "lapping" a cooler? if so then that is fairly similar in the sense that you are polishing and sanding it to get an even surface for contact with the die.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

How Bout a White Ek 480 Pe Coolstream instead of a Black one?

The Cautious One


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## VSG

That's an XTX rad, not PE. It looks great too


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's an XTX rad, not PE. It looks great too


Sorry about that VSG! Appologize for the Mix-up! Thanks though. Feel free to drop in the Build Log (in the siggy)

The Cautious One


----------



## Ceadderman

I wish EK had low-profile radiators too. Don't get me wrong, I like what I am running; but I woulda liked to keep things EK wherever possible. I will likely pick up the Vardars' this next fan purchase but even those are a bit too thick for my taste. Currently running 20mm units. I need 6 more fans for the two Rads that will get put in my build which currently runs a Stealth 360.









~Ceadder


----------



## wes1099

Stupid noob question, but do the EK GPU blocks come with plugs to close off the inlet/outlet holes that you don't use?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Stupid noob question, but do the EK GPU blocks come with plugs to close off the inlet/outlet holes that you don't use?


Yes.


----------



## sinnedone

Finally getting to install my EK blocks.











That EK badge plug, looking good?


----------



## ckool

^ Looks really good man,love the Ek plugs.... ?


----------



## fakeblood

Slight revision to my loop. Added Dual Rotaries to the top rad for a straighter run. Also switched out the Pastel for Dye

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC02998_zps37a9110d.jpg.html
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC02993_zps5c95375f.jpg.html


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Does anyone know if the old Dominator GT heatsinks work with the EK RAM modules? Just curious.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Does anyone know if the old Dominator GT heatsinks work with the EK RAM modules? Just curious.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


yes they do that is why the original name was dominator..


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Does anyone know if the old Dominator GT heatsinks work with the EK RAM modules? Just curious.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> yes they do that is why the original name was dominator..
Click to expand...

I think I worded my question wrong. Will say *these* (or the original ones) work with *these*

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## MrPT

My new EK stuff


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Slight revision to my loop. Added Dual Rotaries to the top rad for a straighter run. Also switched out the Pastel for Dye
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC02998_zps37a9110d.jpg.html
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC02993_zps5c95375f.jpg.html


I love that shot.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I think I worded my question wrong. Will say *these* (or the original ones) work with *these*
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


Jeff I am just about sure they will if you can get the heat sinks off.. But I think theses will screw to the ram block. unless you just want the black heat sinks??


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I think I worded my question wrong. Will say *these* (or the original ones) work with *these*
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> Jeff I am just about sure they will if you can get the heat sinks off.. But I think theses will screw to the ram block. unless you just want the black heat sinks??
Click to expand...

Alright, cool. Basically I want say just a regular stick of DDR4 RAM to look like a Dominator GT using the EK pieces and then those GT fins. Since they don't make the GTs in DDR4, this could be an easy way around that.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Ceadderman

Corsair needs to get with the program on the DDR4. Even with the lack of power necessary to run DDR3, Power Users *want* to have the option of using WC'ing blocks on their RAM. I fear though, that Corsair will simply go to the latest iteration of their Dominator kits for DDR4. Like LEDs actually serve a single solitary purpose other than added blingage.









~Ceadder


----------



## sav4

Hi all im looking at getting into the water cooling scene and im look at getting a ek kit either the x240 or l240 anyone used these kits and if so are they any good ?or would i be better off going for a 360 kit or single components?
also does anyone have one in a entho pro case ?just wondering if the thicker x240 rad will fit
the kit will be cooling a 4770k and 780ti
thanks


----------



## twoofswords

I really dig the clean looks of the Thermosphere Universal VGA Waterblock.



Going to cool a reference R9 290x. Just waiting for the R600 mounting plate and some heatsinks for my Ram & VRMs.


----------



## Nichismo

Would anyone be able to provide a transparent EK logo watermark on the bottom of this for me?

Id really appreciate it, Thanks


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Any word yet on whether EK will be making a block compatible with the Gigabyte GA-X99M-Gaming 5? Or if a pre-existing solution will work?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twoofswords*
> 
> I really dig the clean looks of the Thermosphere Universal VGA Waterblock.
> 
> 
> 
> Going to cool a reference R9 290x. Just waiting for the R600 mounting plate and some heatsinks for my Ram & VRMs.


Why didn't you get the R9 290x Reference block? Seems kind of wasteful($$wise) to go with a GPU block and then put lots of little heatsinks on it to keep the VRM and DRAM cool. Since the manufacturer that made full cooling blocks stopped manufacturing them.









~Ceadder


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why didn't you get the R9 290x Reference block? Seems kind of wasteful($$wise) to go with a GPU block and then put lots of little heatsinks on it to keep the VRM and DRAM cool. Since the manufacturer that made full cooling blocks stopped manufacturing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Besides, AFAIK it's not worth it getting under water with passive sinks, you will propably have worse cooling than on air, no?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why didn't you get the R9 290x Reference block? Seems kind of wasteful($$wise) to go with a GPU block and then put lots of little heatsinks on it to keep the VRM and DRAM cool. Since the manufacturer that made full cooling blocks stopped manufacturing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides, AFAIK it's not worth it getting under water with passive sinks, you will propably have worse cooling than on air, no?
Click to expand...

Not necessarily. Consider the position of the Intaking air via Rads etc. Like my system will be Intaking from the top and that will blow over the top of my XFired GPU array. Much depends on how much airflow goes across them. Then also whether or not the Card is OC'ed or not.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mark Huntsman

@akira749 may I ask what is average response time from ek info email? I mailed them on Friday, so when can I expect them to respond?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark Huntsman*
> 
> @akira749 may I ask what is average response time from ek info email? I mailed them on Friday, so when can I expect them to respond?


you can connect them from their suport page:
http://www.ekwb.com/support/
they usually answer on the next business day.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Any word yet on whether EK will be making a block compatible with the Gigabyte GA-X99M-Gaming 5? Or if a pre-existing solution will work?


No news about this board sorry.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark Huntsman*
> 
> @akira749 may I ask what is average response time from ek info email? I mailed them on Friday, so when can I expect them to respond?


That's a good question! Depending on your timezone, even if you sent your e-mail on friday they might not have read it on friday but on monday. I would wait another day. Also if it's for support, the best way is to open a ticket instead of sending them an e-mail.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No news about this board sorry.


World won't end. Would be neat if the LE kit fits it though, although I think I've already changed my mind on what board my djing rig will have if I go Parvum S2.0 for it - I'll probably just go with the Asus M7 Gene as once you put cards and RAM into it there's barely any red to have to cover up, not to mention there already is a nice waterblock set for it (and it looks ince) ^_^


----------



## Mark Huntsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No news about this board sorry.
> That's a good question! Depending on your timezone, even if you sent your e-mail on friday they might not have read it on friday but on monday. I would wait another day. Also if it's for support, the best way is to open a ticket instead of sending them an e-mail.


I sent them email about job information, that if it it possible to work for them from Slovakia (about 500km from them). Because they stated on their site that there is job opportunity as designer with only requirements of 3 years of solidworks experience and watercooling enthusiast. If it was possible it would be great, because then I would be able to work from anywhere, no matter if I am at home, or in different city at university. Right now I am able to go to work only when I am at home, which is Fridays only.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark Huntsman*
> 
> I sent them email about job information, that if it it possible to work for them from Slovakia (about 500km from them). Because they stated on their site that there is job opportunity as designer with only requirements of 3 years of solidworks experience and watercooling enthusiast. If it was possible it would be great, because then I would be able to work from anywhere, no matter if I am at home, or in different city at university. Right now I am able to go to work only when I am at home, which is Fridays only.


Oh okay









Maybe it's in the hands of HR and they will contact you later. I must admit that I don't really know that part of EK


----------



## Mark Huntsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Oh okay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it's in the hands of HR and they will contact you later. I must admit that I don't really know that part of EK


I hope they will have something for me, even something small, because it would be job in my field of interest and within my field of study (mechanical engineering).

Well the wait continues.


----------



## Yey09

Any news for the EVGA FTW GTX 970 block?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twoofswords*
> 
> I really dig the clean looks of the Thermosphere Universal VGA Waterblock.
> 
> 
> 
> Going to cool a reference R9 290x. Just waiting for the R600 mounting plate and some heatsinks for my Ram & VRMs.


Thermosphere ftw. You really don't need sinks on the VRAM though.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Any news for the EVGA FTW GTX 970 block?


Should be in february


----------



## twoofswords

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why didn't you get the R9 290x Reference block? Seems kind of wasteful($$wise) to go with a GPU block and then put lots of little heatsinks on it to keep the VRM and DRAM cool. Since the manufacturer that made full cooling blocks stopped manufacturing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I originally had the Full Coverage waterblock in mind for my cooling loop. But then I got a real good deal on the Thermosphere that I couldn't pass up.

Even with Gelid's VRM heatsink kit + 10 aluminum heatsinks, I saved quite a bit of money on my end.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Thermosphere ftw. You really don't need sinks on the VRAM though.


Honestly, I'm just doing it for the aesthetic appeal. Those bare naked modules look a little off to me. =P


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Should be in february


Thanks! So a couple of weeks more. How about the backplate?


----------



## SteezyTN

I was just thinking about how lucky and greatful I was back in October. When I purchased my 780 water blocks, the backplates were out of stock so I didn't worry about it. But the next day at PPCS, they came into stock. My order hadn't shipped yet, so PPCS held my shipment and added the backplates. Why am I so greatful? Because when I added my dual 3 way terminal for the SLI setup, I didn't fully have the O-rings in place. Water spewed all over my cards when I was filling it up. If it wasn't for the backplate, my cards would be damaged. I took of the backplates and blocks, and let them dry out overnight. My cards have been working PERFECTLY for the past 3 months







couldn't be more happier


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Thanks! So a couple of weeks more. How about the backplate?


Usually the backplates are released at the same time


----------



## seross69

Guys can find a sale on EK GPU blocks, pumps and ram blocks here, here and here


----------



## XKaan

Hey guys! Question - does EK make a "clean" D5 pump top? (without the circles) I'm getting my new rig loop together and all I see are the CSQ tops with the circles on them?

I want to do a tube res with the acetal top, then buy a bitspower D5 kit


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Hey guys! Question - does EK make a "clean" D5 pump top? (without the circles) I'm getting my new rig loop together and all I see are the CSQ tops with the circles on them?
> 
> I want to do a tube res with the acetal top, then buy a bitspower D5 kit


They do and it's beautiful, but you have to buy it with a D5. Can't get it separate. Yet.

Wink wink, EK


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> They do and it's beautiful, but you have to buy it with a D5. Can't get it separate. Yet.
> 
> Wink wink, EK


Awesome, thanks for the response!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Hey guys! Question - does EK make a "clean" D5 pump top? (without the circles) I'm getting my new rig loop together and all I see are the CSQ tops with the circles on them?
> 
> I want to do a tube res with the acetal top, then buy a bitspower D5 kit


You won't be able to put a Bitspower D5 Mod Kit on an EK D5 Top.


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You won't be able to put a Bitspower D5 Mod Kit on an EK D5 Top.


Aw hell - thanks for letting me know!


----------



## DNMock

Are the Jet plate suggestions on the Supremacy EVO CPU block for the X99 Haswell-E (I believes it's J3 and I2) the optimal inserts for the 6-core and the 8-core versions or just the 8-core? I would assume the suggestions are optimal for both, but just wanted to double check real quick.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Are the Jet plate suggestions on the Supremacy EVO CPU block for the X99 Haswell-E (I believes it's J3 and I2) the optimal inserts for the 6-core and the 8-core versions or just the 8-core? I would assume the suggestions are optimal for both, but just wanted to double check real quick.


Check With @geggeg

The Cautious One

The Review


----------



## DNMock

Aight, just a little curious since 2011 is suggested I1 and J1 (6 cores) and 2011-3 is I2 and J3.

It would seem like the 6 core version of Haswell would be the same as the 6 core Ivybridge


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Aw hell - thanks for letting me know!


But you can of course put the EK pump covers on it.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Aight, just a little curious since 2011 is suggested I1 and J1 (6 cores) and 2011-3 is I2 and J3.
> 
> It would seem like the 6 core version of Haswell would be the same as the 6 core Ivybridge


It's more to do with the IHS curvature. I would think I2/J3 is still the way to go but like I said, I don't have personal experience with a 6 core CPU.


----------



## DNMock

Cool, I'll go ahead and use those then. Appreciate the advice.


----------



## theirlaw

It's a minor gripe that I'll simply work around, and I'm sure I know the reason why... but why oh why does the CoolStream PE series have to use UNC screws. Couldn't just keep everything metric?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theirlaw*
> 
> It's a minor gripe that I'll simply work around, and I'm sure I know the reason why... but why oh why does the CoolStream PE series have to use UNC screws. Couldn't just keep everything metric?


I hate them too so I retapped them to m4.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I purchased some EK-PSC-90-NK fittings for my build and they seem to have ALOT of play and spin freely compared to my other fittings from other manufacturers.
> 
> I have yet to put water through them, but am a little worried about this. Here are some pictures of the gap that can be made simply by moving the fitting around:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/IMAG3439_zpstk9oryy7.jpg.html
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/IMAG3437_zpsw0irxcps.jpg.html
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/IMAG3438_zpsqcff6w7v.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> Is this normal for this fitting? Are these known to have issues or leak? Perhaps the ek rep (derik I believe) can help out here. I'm more than a little worried right now.


EEE KAAYY....... Y u do dis to me!









So I'm filling up my loop to leak test and the above quoted concerns came to fruition. I have 6 of these EK 90 degree nickle rotaries in my build and one of them leaks like a bad faucet. Needless to say I'm a little upset.

I know they changed their fittings recently, but anyone with these style fittings beware.

I don't know if I want to replace all 6 now being they all seemed pretty loose in the center section. HMMM. (frustration)


----------



## VSG

Oh dear.. Did you see if you can take apart the 90 degree end and the rotary end? A loose seal in the middle perhaps?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh dear.. Did you see if you can take apart the 90 degree end and the rotary end? A loose seal in the middle perhaps?


Yeah the leak is from the middle rotary section. Both ends are dry and moving the center section would change the speed of the leak.

Was so excited to get my first water-cooled build under way.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Yeah the leak is from the middle rotary section. Both ends are dry and moving the center section would change the speed of the leak.
> 
> Was so excited to get my first water-cooled build under way.


I know how you feel and that is minor... could be a lot worse so keep you chin up and get r done!!!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I know how you feel and that is minor... could be a lot worse so keep you chin up and get r done!!!


Thanks seross69. That is true, let's hope ppcs sends out a replacement on Monday.


----------



## seross69

I love the monsoon 90 degree fittings and they look great..... might want to try them???


----------



## seross69

I might have 1 or 2 I can sell you at half price + shipping if you want???


----------



## sinnedone

Lol, I have some. Unfortunately they are to big for the small areas I'm working with.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I purchased some EK-PSC-90-NK fittings for my build and they seem to have ALOT of play and spin freely compared to my other fittings from other manufacturers.
> 
> I have yet to put water through them, but am a little worried about this. Here are some pictures of the gap that can be made simply by moving the fitting around:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/IMAG3439_zpstk9oryy7.jpg.html
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/IMAG3437_zpsw0irxcps.jpg.html
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/IMAG3438_zpsqcff6w7v.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> Is this normal for this fitting? Are these known to have issues or leak? Perhaps the ek rep (derik I believe) can help out here. I'm more than a little worried right now.
> 
> 
> 
> EEE KAAYY....... Y u do dis to me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm filling up my loop to leak test and the above quoted concerns came to fruition. I have 6 of these EK 90 degree nickle rotaries in my build and one of them leaks like a bad faucet. Needless to say I'm a little upset.
> 
> I know they changed their fittings recently, but anyone with these style fittings beware.
> 
> I don't know if I want to replace all 6 now being they all seemed pretty loose in the center section. HMMM. (frustration)
Click to expand...

@derickwm used several of them in his build.


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Yeah the leak is from the middle rotary section. Both ends are dry and moving the center section would change the speed of the leak.
> 
> Was so excited to get my first water-cooled build under way.


Tell me about it. I have 6 of these coming in on monday, and 2x45 degrees. Damn it.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> @derickwm used several of them in his build.


I'm just gonna have to rack this one up to bad luck. The other fittings didn't leak. They are all equally loose and have play though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Tell me about it. I have 6 of these coming in on monday, and 2x45 degrees. Damn it.


To be fair I have 7 90 degree and 1 45 degree rotaries and only 1 appears to have leaked. Just compare then all and see if any feel different to the rest when moving.


----------



## Rahldrac

Good advice! Will check back when I get them


----------



## mirzet1976

Hi, I have the EK-DCP 4.0 pump and so far the pump was connected to the PSU and it was noisy, today I was hooked up to one of the fan connectors (CHA_FAN3) and now the pump is quieter, but I'm interested if it will harm the pump or the motherboard. The motherboard is Sabertooth R2.0. Loop is now res-pump-cpu-gpu-rad XT (480), soon taking another rad EK-XT (240). With new rad goes res-pump-cpu-rad-gpu-rad


----------



## Rahldrac

I will be installing this pump next week, so I am curious.
I thought you were suppose to plug it into the CPU_FAN or CPU_OPT? Since those two are the only true PWM connection on that board?
And how to you controll the pump speed from there? Is there a software or can you use FanXpert?


----------



## mirzet1976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I will be installing this pump next week, so I am curious.
> I thought you were suppose to plug it into the CPU_FAN or CPU_OPT? Since those two are the only true PWM connection on that board?
> And how to you controll the pump speed from there? Is there a software or can you use FanXpert?


When the pump is plug it into the CPU_FAN or CPU_OPT bios shows 2000 rpm (this is the EK-DCP4.0 without PWM new serie is EK-DCP4.0 PWM) and can not be reduced, and when is plug it into the CHA_FAN3 then shows 1560 rpm and then is silent.


----------



## Ceadderman

Question...

Did you have your pump mounted to a form of vibration dampener? I.e. shoggy sandwich, EK vibration dampening studs etc.?

Cuz even the quietest of pumps can be audible enough to grate on the nerves if there is nothing used to decouple it from the surface of a case due to vibation. Heck both my DDC pumps were a little loud even when I had my pumps sitting on Laptop packing foam strips of about an inch thick.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

I may have missed it but dose anyone know the ETA of the monoblock for the RAMPAGE V EXTREME?


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I may have missed it but dose anyone know the ETA of the monoblock for the RAMPAGE V EXTREME?


A week or two was said on their Facebook page I believe


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mirzet1976*
> 
> Hi, I have the EK-DCP 4.0 pump and so far the pump was connected to the PSU and it was noisy, today I was hooked up to one of the fan connectors (CHA_FAN3) and now the pump is quieter, but I'm interested if it will harm the pump or the motherboard. The motherboard is Sabertooth R2.0. Loop is now res-pump-cpu-gpu-rad XT (480), soon taking another rad EK-XT (240). With new rad goes res-pump-cpu-rad-gpu-rad


As it says in the picture you posted the power limit for motherboard headers is 12W and that is an 18W pump. You're risking permanent damage to the motherboard.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Guys I have a fairly specific question here, and I'm not sure if it would fit all that well in the EK club but I figure there is a chance some people in here would know this stuff. I currently have a Bitspower DDC Pump reservoir combo but I'm stuck with the 150mm/170mm tall reservoir on it (got it used so it was a fairly good deal), but it's almost impossible to get the replacement tube for the reservoir on it at a reasonable price (I actually have to buy a new reservoir or import it which would cost the same). I can however get EKWB parts at several stores including the replacement 60mm reservoir tube. Thus I wondered if anyone has tried using the EKWB tube with the Bitspower caps on it, or if anyone has both laying around and could test fit it.

If not I'll probably just get a new reservoir at one point and use a male to male fitting (likely EKWB or Alphacool, just becasue I'm pissed at the Bitspower importers atm).

Anyways, I'm looking forward to get my mixed parts loop up and running but it would be terrible if I need to compromise on parts.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Thus I wondered if anyone has tried using the EKWB tube with the Bitspower caps on it,


Bitspower tubes are threaded outwards, while EK RES-X tubes are threaded inwards. (For clarity: I mean Bitspower tubes screw on outside the caps, EK tubes screw inside the caps.)


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Guys I have a fairly specific question here, and I'm not sure if it would fit all that well in the EK club but I figure there is a chance some people in here would know this stuff. I currently have a Bitspower DDC Pump reservoir combo but I'm stuck with the 150mm/170mm tall reservoir on it (got it used so it was a fairly good deal), but it's almost impossible to get the replacement tube for the reservoir on it at a reasonable price (I actually have to buy a new reservoir or import it which would cost the same). I can however get EKWB parts at several stores including the replacement 60mm reservoir tube. Thus I wondered if anyone has tried using the EKWB tube with the Bitspower caps on it, or if anyone has both laying around and could test fit it.
> 
> If not I'll probably just get a new reservoir at one point and use a male to male fitting (likely EKWB or Alphacool, just becasue I'm pissed at the Bitspower importers atm).
> 
> Anyways, I'm looking forward to get my mixed parts loop up and running but it would be terrible if I need to compromise on parts.


I tried the exact thing your trying to do and the bad news is EK and Bitspower reservoirs and caps are not interchangeable. The threads are different for instance on the EK reservoir and the Bitspower end cap. The threads do not line up at all.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I tried the exact thing your trying to do and the bad news is EK and Bitspower reservoirs and caps are not interchangeable. The threads are different for instance on the EK reservoir and the Bitspower end cap. The threads do not line up at all.


That was what I was expecting to be honest, It would be strange for two manufacturers to make it exactly the same after all. I'll get some other reservoir then or start looking for used Bitspower parts here. Bitspower is just Bitspower I guess, overpriced and only available in some countries.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Bitspower tubes are threaded outwards, while EK RES-X tubes are threaded inwards. (For clarity: I mean Bitspower tubes screw on outside the caps, EK tubes screw inside the caps.)


Not from what I see, the X3 has the threads like you describe, but the X2 has "outward" threads like Bitspower (doesn't look like you can get long X2 reservoirs though). Either way it seems like it can't be done, so I'll have to find alternatives.


----------



## mirzet1976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> As it says in the picture you posted the power limit for motherboard headers is 12W and that is an 18W pump. You're risking permanent damage to the motherboard.


OK I switch it back on molex


----------



## mirzet1976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Question...
> 
> Did you have your pump mounted to a form of vibration dampener? I.e. shoggy sandwich, EK vibration dampening studs etc.?
> 
> Cuz even the quietest of pumps can be audible enough to grate on the nerves if there is nothing used to decouple it from the surface of a case due to vibation. Heck both my DDC pumps were a little loud even when I had my pumps sitting on Laptop packing foam strips of about an inch thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Here I've done this as in the picture, which I found on the net. And now it's better, less vibration and volume.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well that works I guess although something solid but yet a bit softer would likely silence your setup better.









When I get mine back together I will be getting them off the case entirely using H pump brackets attached to both my vertically inclined Rads using the block sandwiched between them via the EK vibration dampeners and brackets that come with the Dual DDC v2. Not much need for cooling fins since the setup will be getting blasted by two 120 Vardars pushing in, but I will likely get them as well.

I figure that will silence my pumps quite well.









~Ceadder


----------



## ghostwich

(I did a quick search on this thread but haven't found anything...)

I'm having a bit of a problem with two things - first, I followed all instructions in assembling the block (FC980) on a reference 980, and the EK backplate is bowing away from the PCB on the underside of the GPU die. From the looks of it, the screws EK includes (they call it the M2.4-4mm) seem to interfere with the backplate, even though there are cutouts on the backplate. I'm not sure if it's because the screws have a really large screw-head (i.e. domed [ b] as opposed to a flat-head [e] - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw#Screw_head_shapes). While trying to see what was happening the other problem was that...

... The standoffs separated from the waterblock. That is, the screw (again, EK-provided M2.5-8mm) and both the standoff began spinning together, therefore separating from the block but trapping the graphics card PCB between. The screw wasn't seized in the standoff, but I can't see how you are expected to tighten the backplate to the block without this happening.

So this leads to two questions:

- Does anyone have a 980 with an EK backplate and can confirm solid contact between the backplate and the rear of the GPU die?

- Would it be okay to put Loctite or some other adhesive between the standoff and the block (not between the screw and standoff) so that it wouldn't unscrew (from the block)?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostwich*
> 
> - Does anyone have a 980 with an EK backplate and can confirm solid contact between the backplate and the rear of the GPU die?
> 
> - Would it be okay to put Loctite or some other adhesive between the standoff and the block (not between the screw and standoff) so that it wouldn't unscrew (from the block)?


I have the FC980 backplate (with the short nickel waterblock) and my backplate fitted well.

I presume you followed step 2 in the backplate manual and replaced all the red marked screws with 4mm ones? And in step 4 it talks about 8mm screws in the text, but I did have the same issue as you that these were too long. Luckily my waterblock came with plenty of 6mm screws and I used four of them for the "inner" holes of the backplate, and only two 8mm screws for the outer holes, where I had to use a nut anyway.

I wouldn't use Loctite, I would contact EK support if you don't have any of the 6mm screws.


----------



## ghostwich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I have the FC980 backplate (with the short nickel waterblock) and my backplate fitted well.
> 
> I presume you followed step 2 in the backplate manual and replaced all the red marked screws with 4mm ones? And in step 4 it talks about 8mm screws in the text, but I did have the same issue as you that these were too long. Luckily my waterblock came with plenty of 6mm screws and I used four of them for the "inner" holes of the backplate, and only two 8mm screws for the outer holes, where I had to use a nut anyway.
> 
> I wouldn't use Loctite, I would contact EK support if you don't have any of the 6mm screws.


Hey WiSK! I went with the copper short block









On the backplate I found a very visible gap between the thermal pad that is supposed to stick to the back of the GPU die. There is a visible bowing flex to the backplate also that occurs only after beginning to tighten the outer screws.

I did indeed follow the instructions; step 2 was easy to follow, step 4 is a little confusing - the text mentions six 8mm screws, but the picture shows (just?) one 6mm screw for the acetal CSQ top (which I'm thinking is the long top 980 block).

I also have plenty of 6mm screws that came with the block, but by that time the standoffs were already loosened (I did give it a tighten with needle-nose pliers) and the 6mm screws would also loosen the standoffs. That's why I'm thinking about an adhesive to secure the standoffs to the block - I understand that replacing the standoffs could be necessary if it strips the threads off the screw (or vice-versa) but under normal conditions (i.e. removing every six months for a full flush/clean) I don't see that happening.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mirzet1976*
> 
> Hi, I have the EK-DCP 4.0 pump and so far the pump was connected to the PSU and it was noisy, today I was hooked up to one of the fan connectors (CHA_FAN3) and now the pump is quieter, but I'm interested if it will harm the pump or the motherboard. The motherboard is Sabertooth R2.0.


I have the same pump and motherboard

The pump is great, but I power mine with a 3pin fan extension to a simple fan controller with enough watts per channel. I control it's RPM with voltage. Is not a PWM fan (our version) and it's been running along powered that way for about 13 months now with no issues.

Lowering the pump to ~75% does reduce the noise a fair bit. Mine came with a sheet of dual sided padding and I just cut it into strips to isolate the pump from the case

If you take the third wire out of pump and run it to the motherboard I think you could still get RPM reading


----------



## theirlaw

Is the EK-UNI Pump Holder capable of having EK-RES X3 Holder mounted to it? The spot that's suitable on the EK-RES X3 Holder for the EK-UNI Holder D5 uses an M4 screw. What screw size does the EK-RES X3 brackets use? If not, I know that UN Designs makes a bracket that works.


----------



## Leyaena

Is there any update on the 980 classy blocks yet? End of January is getting pretty close


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostwich*
> 
> (I did a quick search on this thread but haven't found anything...)
> 
> I'm having a bit of a problem with two things - first, I followed all instructions in assembling the block (FC980) on a reference 980, and the EK backplate is bowing away from the PCB on the underside of the GPU die. From the looks of it, the screws EK includes (they call it the M2.4-4mm) seem to interfere with the backplate, even though there are cutouts on the backplate. I'm not sure if it's because the screws have a really large screw-head (i.e. domed [ b] as opposed to a flat-head [e] - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw#Screw_head_shapes). While trying to see what was happening the other problem was that...
> 
> ... The standoffs separated from the waterblock. That is, the screw (again, EK-provided M2.5-8mm) and both the standoff began spinning together, therefore separating from the block but trapping the graphics card PCB between. The screw wasn't seized in the standoff, but I can't see how you are expected to tighten the backplate to the block without this happening.
> 
> So this leads to two questions:
> 
> - Does anyone have a 980 with an EK backplate and can confirm solid contact between the backplate and the rear of the GPU die?
> 
> - Would it be okay to put Loctite or some other adhesive between the standoff and the block (not between the screw and standoff) so that it wouldn't unscrew (from the block)?


You are the second person with a similar problem with the backplate. Just out of curiosity, is your card a Zotac?

Is it the black or the nickel backplate that you bought?

EK doesn't put any locktite on the standoff but they should be tight in place. But I always check if my standoffs are tighten on the block prior to installation. Under normal circumstances the standoff won't move when you unscrew your block. It might be linked to your bowed backplate issue.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theirlaw*
> 
> Is the EK-UNI Pump Holder capable of having EK-RES X3 Holder mounted to it? The spot that's suitable on the EK-RES X3 Holder for the EK-UNI Holder D5 uses an M4 screw. What screw size does the EK-RES X3 brackets use? If not, I know that UN Designs makes a bracket that works.


It uses M4 screws too









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> Is there any update on the 980 classy blocks yet? End of January is getting pretty close


It had to be delayed to february sorry.


----------



## ghostwich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You are the second person with a similar problem with the backplate. Just out of curiosity, is your card a Zotac?
> 
> Is it the black or the nickel backplate that you bought?
> 
> EK doesn't put any locktite on the standoff but they should be tight in place. But I always check if my standoffs are tighten on the block prior to installation. Under normal circumstances the standoff won't move when you unscrew your block. It might be linked to your bowed backplate issue.


I Google'd that thread on Dazmode's forums too haha. No, I've got an EVGA SC 980. ACX cooler, but reference PCB for sure.

It's a gold backplate (it didn't end up matching the yellow/gold I was hoping for).

The standoffs were indeed tight before I installed it and tried to attach the backplate. Like I said, I was in the process of tightening the backplate to the waterblock (with the PCB in the middle) when I noticed things weren't right. And then, trying to loosen it, the standoffs stuck to the screw and began unscrewing from the waterblock (which I have to tell you is a real worrying feeling - the waterblock is stuck to the PCB and the standoffs coming out).

And to be clear the backplate is perfectly flat unattached, so I don't think there's a defect there. Once assembled though, different story.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostwich*
> 
> I Google'd that thread on Dazmode's forums too haha. No, I've got an EVGA SC 980. ACX cooler, but reference PCB for sure.
> 
> It's a gold backplate (it didn't end up matching the yellow/gold I was hoping for).
> 
> The standoffs were indeed tight before I installed it and tried to attach the backplate. Like I said, I was in the process of tightening the backplate to the waterblock (with the PCB in the middle) when I noticed things weren't right. And then, trying to loosen it, the standoffs stuck to the screw and began unscrewing from the waterblock (which I have to tell you is a real worrying feeling - the waterblock is stuck to the PCB and the standoffs coming out).
> 
> And to be clear the backplate is perfectly flat unattached, so I don't think there's a defect there. Once assembled though, different story.


I hope some people will be able to help you because I still don't what what could be wrong here


----------



## ghostwich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I hope some people will be able to help you because I still don't what what could be wrong here


I'll try again and get some pics.

I was asking if anyone had issues with the backplate - WiSK's is doing alright, and I can only find one other instance of an issue anywhere similar to mine.

As for the standoffs - same, only one other issue... I was able to use needle-nose pliers, so I think that's okay just was weird to see the standoffs come apart from the block so easily. Again, I secured them and they seemed tight before I started, so I'm not sure why they are unscrewing so easily.

Thank you for your responses!


----------



## demitrisln

Hello all,
I'm getting a replacement terminal for my EK R9 290X and I'm unsure what size the screws are to attach it to the block? Anybody able to assist on that I would greatly appreciate it.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Hello all,
> I'm getting a replacement terminal for my EK R9 290X and I'm unsure what size the screws are to attach it to the block? Anybody able to assist on that I would greatly appreciate it.


It's M4x28 DIN7984, FrozenCPU stocks them.


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's M4x28 DIN7984, FrozenCPU stocks them.


Thanks they had 3 in stock and I bought them


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostwich*
> 
> I Google'd that thread on Dazmode's forums too haha. No, I've got an EVGA SC 980. ACX cooler, but reference PCB for sure.
> 
> It's a gold backplate (it didn't end up matching the yellow/gold I was hoping for).
> 
> The standoffs were indeed tight before I installed it and tried to attach the backplate. Like I said, I was in the process of tightening the backplate to the waterblock (with the PCB in the middle) when I noticed things weren't right. And then, trying to loosen it, the standoffs stuck to the screw and began unscrewing from the waterblock (which I have to tell you is a real worrying feeling - the waterblock is stuck to the PCB and the standoffs coming out).
> 
> And to be clear the backplate is perfectly flat unattached, so I don't think there's a defect there. Once assembled though, different story.


It could be a screw hole being slightly out off alignment. I just remember from the backplates I modified for my card that when one of my screw holes was slightly off from the PCB (we are talking about 1-2mm here) the backplate would bend upwards as the screws was tightened. It's hard to check, but you could measure the distance to the screw holes with a ruler on both the card and the backplate to see if there is at least some differences.


----------



## Rahldrac

Okay, now I understand absolutely nothing!

Just got my EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel in and it looked very nice!
Problem is that it does not fit!

I have a Maximus hero VII motherboard and according to the EK page the DUAL should fit for my motherboard.

Sorry about the flash on the pictures:







I see some other threads that say that even though there is only on PCI connector between the two 16xPCI-E, the distance is that of two of them!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I see some other threads that say that even though there is only on PCI connector between the two 16xPCI-E, the distance is that of two of them!


Yep. The dual terminal would fit between the PCIe slots in the upper picture, while the slots you have chosen are missing a slot. The lower picture shows that the distance is further.



You need this one http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-dual-parallel-3-slot-plexi.html


----------



## Rahldrac

Thought so.
Bummer, posting things in the country where I live is quite the pain (I only study here, so I do not speak the language fluently).


----------



## Freaxy

That's why it's better to count the PCIe slots from the back covers.
I also had to triple check mine before buying.


----------



## Rahldrac

Does anybody know if this fits with the G1 970 waterblock?

Also, does it only have one hole at the top? http://www.3kropki.pl/img_pg/9/1/4/1467-1.jpg


----------



## andyv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostwich*
> 
> As for the standoffs - same, only one other issue... I was able to use needle-nose pliers, so I think that's okay just was weird to see the standoffs come apart from the block so easily. Again, I secured them and they seemed tight before I started, so I'm not sure why they are unscrewing so easily.


I have had the same issue with my 670 block. I also had a bit of an issue with one snapping in the center of the thread. EK actually told me I needed to purchase a completely new block or send it back to get it re machined. Eventually I told them to just send me the stand-offs and had to pay shipping (which was real expensive for posting two small stand-offs)


----------



## DeviousAddict

I was wondering if there any other colour for the R9-290X VaporX backplate?
I can only see black in the EK store. I'd love a couple of white ones, I dont have time to paint it myself otherwise I'd just buy the black ones and strip them down.
Cheers


----------



## Ceadderman

Paint it!









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Hey guys, I have a D5 pump, and I let it run about 2900RPM. Its running through 2 GPU's, 1 CPU, and 3 Rads. Will I notice a decrease in temps if I raise the RPM of the pump?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Okay, now I understand absolutely nothing!
> 
> Just got my EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel in and it looked very nice!
> Problem is that it does not fit!
> 
> I have a Maximus hero VII motherboard and according to the EK page the DUAL should fit for my motherboard.
> 
> Sorry about the flash on the pictures:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see some other threads that say that even though there is only on PCI connector between the two 16xPCI-E, the distance is that of two of them!


What the other guy said, you need the Dual 3 Slot. I have the VI Hero, and I thought the 3 slot meant 3 GPU's... It does not. Hope this helps


----------



## ghostwich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a D5 pump, and I let it run about 2900RPM. Its running through 2 GPU's, 1 CPU, and 3 Rads. Will I notice a decrease in temps if I raise the RPM of the pump?


Pretty general watercooling question - given the wide array of possibilities (and no clue on the types of connectors, how many 90 degree bends, how big are the radiators, what fans are on there in which configuration, etc., you get the idea...), I would say some good old fashioned 1-variable testing on your part would answer your question


----------



## ghostwich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> It could be a screw hole being slightly out off alignment. I just remember from the backplates I modified for my card that when one of my screw holes was slightly off from the PCB (we are talking about 1-2mm here) the backplate would bend upwards as the screws was tightened. It's hard to check, but you could measure the distance to the screw holes with a ruler on both the card and the backplate to see if there is at least some differences.


I'll also give this a try. Nothing seemed out of alignment by as much as 1mm.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Does anybody know if this fits with the G1 970 waterblock?
> 
> Also, does it only have one hole at the top? http://www.3kropki.pl/img_pg/9/1/4/1467-1.jpg


No the block you have need the most recent version of bridges. The correct equivalent of what you linked is this : EK-FC Terminal DUAL Serial 3-Slot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> I was wondering if there any other colour for the R9-290X VaporX backplate?
> I can only see black in the EK store. I'd love a couple of white ones, I dont have time to paint it myself otherwise I'd just buy the black ones and strip them down.
> Cheers


It was only done in black. If you don't have the time to paint it you can always apply vinyl on it


----------



## DarkIdeals

He's right, i just got 2 EK FC970 WF3 blocks for my two Gigabyte G1 970's and i got the EK FC Terminal Dual Parallel and i can say it fits just right, and the EK website does say that only original CSQ blocks are compatible with the EK "bridge" blocks, so you gotta use a terminal. (i'm using a rampage IV black edition mobo so i'm not using the 3 slot terminal since it's too far, but you could always use the 3 way sli terminal and put a blank kit in the middle spot if you want to space your cards wider)

And the EK terminals do have two ports/holes at the top, but one of them is an optional port that requires you to use an EK extender (looks like the top of a compression fitting, if you have an EK cylinder reservoir you'll have a couple of these already)


----------



## gdubc

Has anyone taken apart their Vardar fans for painting yet? If so, how easy?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a D5 pump, and I let it run about 2900RPM. Its running through 2 GPU's, 1 CPU, and 3 Rads. Will I notice a decrease in temps if I raise the RPM of the pump?


Not likely. I didn't notice much if any decrease in temps using 2 pumps in series with my one Radiator. Once your coolant reaches ambient temp it's difficult to get any more efficiency out of your coolant w/0 a bit of help from something like a Chiller added to your loop.

So if you're running @ ambient no. If not maybe. But you could also see a slight increase in temp as well if your coolant doesn't stick around long enough to get the optimal heat transfer.

I am sure someone has a more technically worded response so... BUMP









~Ceadder


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostwich*
> 
> I'll also give this a try. Nothing seemed out of alignment by as much as 1mm.


It seems unlikely, but it's the only reason I seem to come up with. it could also be the standoffs that are slightly out off alignment forcing the exact same thing to happen.


----------



## DeviousAddict

@akira749
I never thought of using vinyl, thanks for the suggestion


----------



## andyv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> @akira749
> I never thought of using vinyl, thanks for the suggestion


Have you thought about something like plasti-dip? you can peel it off later if you dont like it/sell it etc. Its still a spray paint but you usually dont need prep work.


----------



## <[email protected]> (CS:S King)

Hey guys eventually i want to add an SLI loop to my existing loop, with EK blocks and an EK terminal block (undecided between parallel vs serial) of some sort... Im trying to figure out how/where i could add a drain, only in the planning phase. Unsure if i should use a closing valve like this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14595/ex-tub-1034/Bitspower_G14_Mini_Valve_-_Black_Sparkle_BP-MVV-BKBK.html?tl=g30c101s460#blank

If so, where/how do i put it?? Dont i need a 2 way valve instead so it blocks "dirty" water from going back into the pump? Do the EK terminal blocks have a second port for a drain port, or do i need to use a T line/fitting somewhere else like on the return line to the radiators?

Case (use your imagination):


----------



## DeviousAddict

@andyv
Not heard of that stuff, but I think vinyl would be better for me. I'm not very good with spray paints etc, I male to much mess lol


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So if you're running @ ambient no. If not maybe. *But you could also see a slight increase in temp as well if your coolant doesn't stick around long enough to get the optimal heat transfer.*
> 
> I am sure someone has a more technically worded response so... BUMP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


This is a common misconception. There is a point of diminishing returns on coolant speed and this usually occurs at the switch between turbulent (fast) and laminar (slow) flow.

Also keep in mind heat and temperature are related but not the same. Just because your inlet and outlet temps on a radiator are the same it does not mean you didn't transfer any heat.

As far as heat transfer is concerned you will never have a negative impact by moving a fluid (air or water) faster.

You just might not have a significant improvement.

JT


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> This is a common misconception. There is a point of diminishing returns on coolant speed and this usually occurs at the switch between turbulent (fast) and laminar (slow) flow.
> 
> Also keep in mind heat and temperature are related but not the same. Just because your inlet and outlet temps on a radiator are the same it does not mean you didn't transfer any heat.
> 
> As far as heat transfer is concerned you will never have a negative impact by moving a fluid (air or water) faster.
> 
> You just might not have a significant improvement.
> 
> JT


Although I agree on the other parts. The part about the inlet and outlet temps being the same and still heat being transferred I don't agree on.
The formula for heat transfer is:
Q=m*c*dT
Where Q is transferred heat, m is mass (or flow), c is heat capacity (constant, differs for each material) and dT is temperature difference.
As you can see, if delta T is 0 the heat transfer will also be 0.

There is a possibility where there is heat transfer without delta T or even with a negative delta T, but that requires evaporation. And usually this is combined with compression and expansion. For example in refrigerators.

But this goes too much off topic I guess








Basicly my own tests shown that flow rate above a certain point has little to no effects on my temps. Below that point it does, this is probably where the flow starts to become laminar.


----------



## Sir Beregond

So it has now been almost 3 weeks since EK said they shipped my retention springs for my Supremacy EVO via Posta Slovenia or something like that...

I don't necessarily fault EK for that, but seriously, 3 weeks + for parts missing out of a kit stinks.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> This is a common misconception. There is a point of diminishing returns on coolant speed and this usually occurs at the switch between turbulent (fast) and laminar (slow) flow.
> 
> Also keep in mind heat and temperature are related but not the same. Just because your inlet and outlet temps on a radiator are the same it does not mean you didn't transfer any heat.
> 
> As far as heat transfer is concerned you will never have a negative impact by moving a fluid (air or water) faster.
> 
> You just might not have a significant improvement.
> 
> JT


I am sorry to say that I do not agree with your statement that water moving faster will never have a negative impact. If the water is moving too fast it will not pick up any heat from the blocks. I know this for a fact as I work with water cooling and thermodynamics with my job and know that at a certain flow point you start absorbing less and as the faster the water moves the less it will pick up..

Now saying that I am going to also say that I do not think we have to worry about this with the pumps we are using. I do not think we can move the water fast enough for this to happen unless you go crazy and have a huge pump or something like this!!


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I am sorry to say that I do not agree with your statement that water moving faster will never have a negative impact. If the water is moving too fast it will not pick up any heat from the blocks. I know this for a fact as I work with water cooling and thermodynamics with my job and know that at a certain flow point you start absorbing less and as the faster the water moves the less it will pick up..
> 
> Now saying that I am going to also say that I do not think we have to worry about this with the pumps we are using. I do not think we can move the water fast enough for this to happen unless you go crazy and have a huge pump or something like this!!


In addition to this the bigger flow of water is gonna require a bigger flow of air through the radiators to keep the same amount temperature difference between water inlet and water outlet


----------



## dansi

Hi EK,









Got question about your DC12 pump loop directions.

From your test data, which of the below 2 is recommended?

*1. From DC12 pump outlet (top) to rad in and then rad out towards CPU block in and from CPU block out back to XRes in.*
Pro.
This would give the coolest coolant flowing across the CPU.

Cons
Pump will receive very hot water and it will affect the life and even noise? It is after all rated at 25 dc. Of course dependent on how often CPU is at 100%?

*2. From DC12 pump outlet (top) to CPU block in and from CPU block out to rad in and rad out towards XRes in*
Pro
Pump gets cooled coolant
CPU block gets the highest pressure direct from the pump, works better for high restriction block like the Phobya UC Extreme?

Cons.
CPU may gets warmer by a few degrees as DC12 pump are known to dump heat into the coolant?


----------



## dansi

edited


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> Although I agree on the other parts. The part about the inlet and outlet temps being the same and still heat being transferred I don't agree on.
> The formula for heat transfer is:
> Q=m*c*dT
> Where Q is transferred heat, m is mass (or flow), *c is heat capacity* (constant, differs for each material) and dT is temperature difference.
> As you can see, if delta T is 0 the heat transfer will also be 0.
> 
> There is a possibility where there is heat transfer without delta T or even with a negative delta T, but that requires evaporation. And usually this is combined with compression and expansion. For example in refrigerators.
> 
> But this goes too much off topic I guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basicly my own tests shown that flow rate above a certain point has little to no effects on my temps. Below that point it does, this is probably where the flow starts to become laminar.


You are right it cannot be exactly zero but it can be so small you would consider it zero.

Heat capacity is the amount of heat a mass of material can absorb or give off before changing temperature. This does not change like you said.

So then using your equation, If you keep your Q(heat) constant and increase your M(mass flowrate) what has to happen to your delta T.

It has to go down. Closer to zero. If you increase your flow high enough the delta T will be so small it is essentially zero.

Heat will always transfer
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I am sorry to say that I do not agree with your statement that water moving faster will never have a negative impact. If the water is moving too fast it will not pick up any heat from the blocks. *I know this for a fact as I work with water cooling and thermodynamics with my job and know that at a certain flow point you start absorbing less and as the faster the water moves the less it will pick up..*
> 
> Now saying that I am going to also say that I do not think we have to worry about this with the pumps we are using. I do not think we can move the water fast enough for this to happen unless you go crazy and have a huge pump or something like this!!


This is wrong because the movement of water is not driving the heat transfer, *the temperature difference between the two materials transferring the heat*, is what drives the heat transfer.

Slower water => more time for it to raise in temp while in contact with the transfer surface => lower temp difference between materials ( hotter water) => Less heat transferred.

Faster water => less time for it to raise in temp while in contact with the transfer surface => higher temp difference between materials (colder water) => more heat transferred.

The materials are always in contact so there is always transfer going on, dictated by the temp difference between the materials.

Not trying to be mean or anything just trying to clarify.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> You are right it cannot be exactly zero but it can be so small you would consider it zero.
> 
> Heat capacity is the amount of heat a mass of material can absorb or give off before changing temperature. This does not change like you said.
> 
> So then using your equation, If you keep your Q(heat) constant and increase your M(mass flowrate) what has to happen to your delta T.
> 
> It has to go down. Closer to zero. If you increase your flow high enough the delta T will be so small it is essentially zero.
> 
> Heat will always transfer


Nice wording on the heat capacity. Kinda hard for me to find the english wording for all these scientific equations.
But yes I know what you mean, it can get close to zero.
The downside of it is that this is gonna require a high airflow. And by increasing the water flow it requires even more airflow.
Or radiator space for that matter.


----------



## VSG

^ Theory doesn't always translate well into practice. We are talking about very little difference in mean residence times here. Almost all waterblocks scale positively with coolant flow rate but some exceptions remain- the Swiftech Apogee XL for one.


----------



## fast_fate

In my recent testing of radiators and their heat dissipation (no blocks involved)...
I found that 33% of the rads tested had a decrease in thermal performance when flow rate was increased from 1.0 gpm to 1.5 gpm.
The rads were all configured in push/pull with GT AP-15's.
The decrease observed was _only_ at 750 rpm P/P
The maximum performance loss was 2.2 %.
At the same 750rpm, the maximum performance gain was also 2.2% for the same gpm flow rate increase.
On other fan speeds tested (1300 & 1850) radiator performance was increased in all cases for the same flow rate increase.

*EDIT: -* if we get too much further OT here, we can take the discussion the the Water Cooling Test Thread


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ Theory doesn't always translate well into practice. We are talking about very little difference in mean residence times here. Almost all waterblocks scale positively with coolant flow rate but some exceptions remain- the Swiftech Apogee XL for one.


The waterblocks do, but the radiators don't. So in the end you'll reach an equilibrium with minimal performance gain.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> In my recent testing of radiators and their heat dissipation (no blocks involved)...
> I found that 33% of the rads tested had a decrease in thermal performance when flow rate was increased from 1.0 gpm to 1.5 gpm.
> The rads were all configured in push/pull with GT AP-15's.
> The decrease observed was _only_ at 750 rpm P/P
> The maximum performance loss was 2.2 %.
> At the same 750rpm, the maximum performance gain was also 2.2% for the same gpm flow rate increase.
> On other fan speeds tested (1300 & 1850) radiator performance was increased in all cases for the same flow rate increase.


Great testing.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> The waterblocks do, but the radiators don't. So in the end you'll reach an equilibrium with minimal performance gain.


Again, depends on the specific radiators and how many you have. But yeah- not really worth getting into expecting a tangible result.


----------



## SteezyTN

I need more rads in mine. I'm thinking about getting a 360 (if it will fit) or 240 and placing it in the back (outside) of the 750D. It seems like 3 rads just aren't enough. My fans have to be at 1650RPM to keep the water temps below 40c.

Either another radiator, or better fans. Seems like the XSPC fans aren't cutting it. At 1650, they are pretty dang loud. I have them connected to an NZXT Sentry Mix 2 fan controller. If I lower them to 40-50% (660-1000RPM), water temps will reach above 42c. Haven't seen more than 42, because I turn my fans up to full speed when it happens. I've been looking into EK's new Vardar fans. The 1450 ones looks good. I want SP120's for aesthetics, but I'm not sure if I will see an improvement over the XSPC stock fans.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I need more rads in mine. I'm thinking about getting a 360 (if it will fit) or 240 and placing it in the back (outside) of the 750D. It seems like 3 rads just aren't enough. My fans have to be at 1650RPM to keep the water temps below 40c.
> 
> Either another radiator, or better fans. Seems like the XSPC fans aren't cutting it. At 1650, they are pretty dang loud. I have them connected to an NZXT Sentry Mix 2 fan controller. If I lower them to 40-50% (660-1000RPM), water temps will reach above 42c. Haven't seen more than 42, because I turn my fans up to full speed when it happens. I've been looking into EK's new Vardar fans. The 1450 ones looks good. I want SP120's for aesthetics, but I'm not sure if I will see an improvement over the XSPC stock fans.


depending on the fin density of the rads it should give some improved performance. The XSPC fans are not that bad but come out lacking when it comes to static pressure, so any SP fan you go for will likely improve performance somewhat. It's going to cost a lot though so I'm not sure if the money would be better invested in more radiator space. Also when it comes to SP fans there is a lot to choose from as of late and something like the EK Vardar, Cooler Master Silencio, Corsair SP120, Noiseblocker/Phobya/Alphacool Eloop (my personal favorite), Alphacool Sussurro, Noctua NF-F12, and even the Schythe GT if you can get some will all serve you quite nicely as radiator fans (there is a couple more I'm forgetting, but all are good). I suspect you know this already though, but it should be said that I did lower my GPU temp on my H105 by as much as 5-10*c by changing from Corsair SP120L fans to Noiseblocker Eloop so it is possible to get lower temps by changing fans (I assume the water temp lowers when the GPU temp does).

Anyways, that was probably a bit off topic to write here in this club thread


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I need more rads in mine. I'm thinking about getting a 360 (if it will fit) or 240 and placing it in the back (outside) of the 750D. It seems like 3 rads just aren't enough. My fans have to be at 1650RPM to keep the water temps below 40c.
> 
> Either another radiator, or better fans. Seems like the XSPC fans aren't cutting it. At 1650, they are pretty dang loud. I have them connected to an NZXT Sentry Mix 2 fan controller. If I lower them to 40-50% (660-1000RPM), water temps will reach above 42c. Haven't seen more than 42, because I turn my fans up to full speed when it happens. I've been looking into EK's new Vardar fans. The 1450 ones looks good. I want SP120's for aesthetics, but I'm not sure if I will see an improvement over the XSPC stock fans.


What is the ambient temp? That seems like pretty poor performance from 3 rads unless ambient is already high.


----------



## SteezyTN

Well I'm in Northen California an it's winter. We have the heater on in the house, so it's about 21c (70f) ambient. I'm cooling two 780's and a 4770k... Does that still seem like poor performance? Or is that just a lot of heat?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Well I'm in Northen California an it's winter. We have the heater on in the house, so it's about 21c (70f) ambient. I'm cooling two 780's and a 4770k... Does that still seem like poor performance? Or is that just a lot of heat?


A 20C delta is poor performance. That would be two and a half times the delta I get with 1 less GPU and 1 less rad, and slightly slower fans but in push pull.

It could maybe be an airflow issue? I have seen where removing a rad cooled better, but admittedly that was a 120 rad on the exhaust.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> A 20C delta is poor performance. That would be two and a half times the delta I get with 1 less GPU and 1 less rad.


So what do you suggest I do?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So what do you suggest I do?


Hard to say for sure, but I would not be happy with that. I would do some testing with different layouts and see what happens. If removing the door to the case and maybe pointing a slow room fan into the case makes a large difference you will know it is airflow related.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Hard to say for sure, but I would not be happy with that. I would do some testing with different layouts and see what happens. If removing the door to the case and maybe pointing a slow room fan into the case makes a large difference you will know it is airflow related.


I have my 360 and one 240 in push. The second 240 is in pull. Should I make them all push? Also, I have a 140mm fan in the back. I'm thinking about making that intake rather than exhaust (adding a fan filter).


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have my 360 and one 240 in push. The second 240 is in pull. Should I make them all push? Also, I have a 140mm fan in the back. I'm thinking about making that intake rather than exhaust (adding a fan filter).


Just make some changes and see what happens. The worst that could happen is you see no improvement and you put it back the way it was.
I would always have radiators intaking cool air.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Just make some changes and see what happens. The worst that could happen is you see no improvement and you put it back the way it was.
> I would always have radiators intaking cool air.


I know I mentioned it, but when the fans were at 60%, the water temps would reach about 40-42c. I now have them at 60% (990RpM), and the temps dropped slightly below 40c. So it seems like switching the third rad to push, temps improved aboit 3-5c. No telling how much of an improvement I'll get when I switch the back exhaust to an intake.


----------



## jsco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I know I mentioned it, but when the fans were at 60%, the water temps would reach about 40-42c. I now have them at 60% (990RpM), and the temps dropped slightly below 40c. So it seems like switching the third rad to push, temps improved aboit 3-5c. No telling how much of an improvement I'll get when I switch the back exhaust to an intake.


good, this is what i would expect. if all your rads are intakes, you want the rear fan to be an exhaust. if all your rads are exhausts, you want the rear fan to be an intake. (intake/exhaust is a better way to describe airflow direction in/out of the case; push/pull usually describes the orientation of the fan with respect to the radiator, regardless of how the complete assembly is oriented.)


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> good, this is what i would expect. if all your rads are intakes, you want the rear fan to be an exhaust. if all your rads are exhausts, you want the rear fan to be an intake. (intake/exhaust is a better way to describe airflow direction in/out of the case; push/pull usually describes the orientation of the fan with respect to the radiator, regardless of how the complete assembly is oriented.)


My front and bottom 240 rads are intake, and the top 360 is exhaust. The reason I want to make the back fan (no rad) intake, is because It will break fresh air from outside. The two intake rads bring hot air into the case (after the air goes through the rad).


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> My front and bottom 240 rads are intake, and the top 360 is exhaust. The reason I want to make the back fan (no rad) intake, is because It will break fresh air from outside. The two intake rads bring hot air into the case (after the air goes through the rad).


This is off topic and really should be taken to the water cooling forum!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> This is off topic and really should be taken to the water cooling forum!


I know. Sorry about that. Didn't mean to take my question so far haha.


----------



## demitrisln

Hello all,
I am need of your help again... I bought a replacement terminal from FrozenCPU. Below is the link. On the site it says comes with spare gasket however I didn't receive anything. I need to install this today. Is this a standard gasket that I can pick up locally?

I appreciate your help.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25081/ex-blc-1786/EK_FC_Terminal_Replacement_Connecting_Link_-_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_-_Acetal.html?id=KU2z9UaD&mv_pc=4978


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Hello all,
> I am need of your help again... I bought a replacement terminal from FrozenCPU. Below is the link. On the site it says comes with spare gasket however I didn't receive anything. I need to install this today. Is this a standard gasket that I can pick up locally?
> 
> I appreciate your help.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25081/ex-blc-1786/EK_FC_Terminal_Replacement_Connecting_Link_-_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_-_Acetal.html?id=KU2z9UaD&mv_pc=4978


It's possible that since it's a replacement part that no o-rings is included and that the FCPU website mislead you here.

But my question for you is, since you bought a replacement, why not just use the o-rings you already have?

I'm not sure you can find it locally it's 15x1 o-rings


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's possible that since it's a replacement part that no o-rings is included and that the FCPU website mislead you here.
> 
> But my question for you is, since you bought a replacement, why not just use the o-rings you already have?
> 
> I'm not sure you can find it locally it's 15x1 o-rings


The block I got off eBay didn't come with the terminal. Would you know of what that might get close that would work? Having trouble finding what the dimensions of a 15x1mm are (ID, OD, thickness etc)


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> The block I got off eBay didn't come with the terminal.


Bummer


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> The block I got off eBay didn't come with the terminal. Would you know of what that might get close that would work? Having trouble finding what the dimensions of a 15x1mm are (ID, OD, thickness etc)


You want it to be exact it says. Nothing bigger or smaller. I misplaced my oring on my terminal bridge for my SLI setup, and water got everywhere


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> The block I got off eBay didn't come with the terminal. Would you know of what that might get close that would work? Having trouble finding what the dimensions of a 15x1mm are (ID, OD, thickness etc)


1mm is the thickness
15mm is the diameter


----------



## demitrisln

Tell me about it lol


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 1mm is the thickness
> 15mm is the diameter


Would these work? I assume so but I know what happens when you assume.

http://www.amazon.com/Automobile-Rings-Sealing-Gasket-Washers/dp/B008ASXSTY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422476807&sr=8-1&keywords=15x1mm+oring&pebp=1422476907494&peasin=B008ASXSTY


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Would these work? I assume so but I know what happens when you assume.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Automobile-Rings-Sealing-Gasket-Washers/dp/B008ASXSTY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422476807&sr=8-1&keywords=15x1mm+oring&pebp=1422476907494&peasin=B008ASXSTY


From what I can find the 15mm is the ID so the ones you found would not fit since they are 15mm OD


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> From what I can find the 15mm is the ID so the ones you found would not fit since they are 15mm OD


Thanks for letting me know I cancelled my order real quick. Do you know anybody who does sell what I need?


----------



## demitrisln

I found them on FrozenCPU and ordered them....

Thanks all for your help.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Thanks for letting me know I cancelled my order real quick. Do you know anybody who does sell what I need?


FCPU sells them : EK Replacement O-Ring - 15.0 x 1 (OR 15x1 NBR70)


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> FCPU sells them : EK Replacement O-Ring - 15.0 x 1 (OR 15x1 NBR70)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> I found them on FrozenCPU and ordered them....
> 
> Thanks all for your help.


You were faster than me


----------



## demitrisln

Now to try and get some money back from them.... 2nd day air the terminal, screws, and shut off screw to have today. And since their website says it is included I think I have a case


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Now to try and get some money back from them.... 2nd day air the terminal, screws, and shut off screw to have today. And since their website says it is included I think I have a case


I agree it was their info that mislead you with the o-rings


----------



## dodgethis

Here's hoping EK can come through with 290x Lightning block. USD's rate is horrible for me now...


----------



## DarkIdeals

anyone have experience with the EK-PSC and EK-AF compression fitting adapters? I'm trying to decide on what to get for my system, i found some Bitspower black sparkle compression fittings for real cheap ($5 each) but i won't be able to afford the bitspower adapters most likely since they're $10-12 each, and the EK-PSC are ~$5 while the AF are $7.50 - $8

I noticed that the EK-PSC adapters weight ~0.05 to 0.1lbs while the bitspowers are 0.2lbs so that kind of implies sturdier quality, (although the EK-AF ones are 0.2 as well but have a different design on the rotary part, lines instead of diamond knurling pattern so it might not match too well with the knurled bitspower fittings i plan to attach to them)

So i'm trying to decide between getting the $5 EK-PSC rotary adapters, $7.50 heavier EK-AF rotary adapters, or just get the Bitspower non-rotary adapters ($7 for 45 degree and $9 for 90 degree iirc)


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> anyone have experience with the EK-PSC and EK-AF compression fitting adapters? I'm trying to decide on what to get for my system, i found some Bitspower black sparkle compression fittings for real cheap ($5 each) but i won't be able to afford the bitspower adapters most likely since they're $10-12 each, and the EK-PSC are ~$5 while the AF are $7.50 - $8
> 
> I noticed that the EK-PSC adapters weight ~0.05 to 0.1lbs while the bitspowers are 0.2lbs so that kind of implies sturdier quality, (although the EK-AF ones are 0.2 as well but have a different design on the rotary part, lines instead of diamond knurling pattern so it might not match too well with the knurled bitspower fittings i plan to attach to them)
> 
> So i'm trying to decide between getting the $5 EK-PSC rotary adapters, $7.50 heavier EK-AF rotary adapters, or just get the Bitspower non-rotary adapters ($7 for 45 degree and $9 for 90 degree iirc)


I never had the EK-PSC adapters but I just bought some EK-AF for a new build and I happen to have some BP fittings so I took a picture of a 90 all BP and one with an AF adapter and a BP fitting side-by-side on a rad to give you a good idea.

Even if the EK-AF doesn't have a diamond knurling pattern it doesn't clash. But I let you be the judge of that.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I never had the EK-PSC adapters but I just bought some EK-AF for a new build and I happen to have some BP fittings so I took a picture of a 90 all BP and one with an AF adapter and a BP fitting side-by-side on a rad to give you a good idea.
> 
> Even if the EK-AF doesn't have a diamond knurling pattern it doesn't clash. But I let you be the judge of that.


Is that bitspower one a black sparkle? I'm surprised how similar the color of the EK and BP is. I had a pretty good idea they would be real close but some pictures showed radical differences and i wasn't sure if that was just lighting causing it or not. And yeah the AF doesn't really clash with the knurling on the bitspower fitting. What do you think of the EK-AF's compared to the bitspower quality wise? Are the bitspower really better quality like people say? there's not alot of price difference between me going bitspower fitting with EK adapter vs getting all bitspower fittings with the adapters pre-attached ($122.73 total for EK and BP or $130.86 for all bitspower) so if the Bitspowers are reallly better made fittings/adapters then it would be worth it to spend that extra ~$8 to go all BP

I know the bitspower fittings/adapters are all copper construction vs nickel plated brass for EK but i kind of doubt that fittings will make any kind of temp difference etc.. even with the better thermal properties of copper.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Is that bitspower one a black sparkle? I'm surprised how similar the color of the EK and BP is. I had a pretty good idea they would be real close but some pictures showed radical differences and i wasn't sure if that was just lighting causing it or not. And yeah the AF doesn't really clash with the knurling on the bitspower fitting. What do you think of the EK-AF's compared to the bitspower quality wise? Are the bitspower really better quality like people say? there's not alot of price difference between me going bitspower fitting with EK adapter vs getting all bitspower fittings with the adapters pre-attached ($122.73 total for EK and BP or $130.86 for all bitspower) so if the Bitspowers are reallly better made fittings/adapters then it would be worth it to spend that extra ~$8 to go all BP
> 
> I know the bitspower fittings/adapters are all copper construction vs nickel plated brass for EK but i kind of doubt that fittings will make any kind of temp difference etc.. even with the better thermal properties of copper.


I thought bitspower fittings were brass. In fact, I thought almost all fittings are brass.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Is that bitspower one a black sparkle? I'm surprised how similar the color of the EK and BP is. I had a pretty good idea they would be real close but some pictures showed radical differences and i wasn't sure if that was just lighting causing it or not. And yeah the AF doesn't really clash with the knurling on the bitspower fitting. What do you think of the EK-AF's compared to the bitspower quality wise? Are the bitspower really better quality like people say? there's not alot of price difference between me going bitspower fitting with EK adapter vs getting all bitspower fittings with the adapters pre-attached ($122.73 total for EK and BP or $130.86 for all bitspower) so if the Bitspowers are reallly better made fittings/adapters then it would be worth it to spend that extra ~$8 to go all BP
> 
> I know the bitspower fittings/adapters are all copper construction vs nickel plated brass for EK but i kind of doubt that fittings will make any kind of temp difference etc.. even with the better thermal properties of copper.


I found that this one here: Click, was made a bit cheapish where you tighten the Compression-Fitting, because the thread of the not-moving-part is not very large and you can easily over-tighten the fitting.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Is that bitspower one a black sparkle? I'm surprised how similar the color of the EK and BP is. I had a pretty good idea they would be real close but some pictures showed radical differences and i wasn't sure if that was just lighting causing it or not. And yeah the AF doesn't really clash with the knurling on the bitspower fitting. What do you think of the EK-AF's compared to the bitspower quality wise? Are the bitspower really better quality like people say? there's not alot of price difference between me going bitspower fitting with EK adapter vs getting all bitspower fittings with the adapters pre-attached ($122.73 total for EK and BP or $130.86 for all bitspower) so if the Bitspowers are reallly better made fittings/adapters then it would be worth it to spend that extra ~$8 to go all BP
> 
> I know the bitspower fittings/adapters are all copper construction vs nickel plated brass for EK but i kind of doubt that fittings will make any kind of temp difference etc.. even with the better thermal properties of copper.


No the BP's are Silver Shining and the AF are Nickel. They are identical in terms of color.

In my Xenomorph build I used EK Black Nickel and I had to use some BP for the drain valve. Here's a picture I took when I was doing some fitment tests you can see the EK Black Nickel and the BP valve in Black Sparkle. Again very close color match.



I still haven't use the EK-AF adapters since the build that they are going in isn't started yet so I can't say for now sorry.

And BP are made of brass not copper.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I thought bitspower fittings were brass. In fact, I thought almost all fittings are brass.


The only other fitting material is acrylic, unless there may be some made of stainless - I don't have that info right now...


----------



## dodgethis

Igor came through for me with a Lightning block and backplate, even though the block was listed as out of stock. I am very pleased


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dodgethis*
> 
> Igor came through for me with a Lightning block and backplate, even though the block was listed as out of stock. I am very pleased


Glad to hear this!


----------



## Nichismo

Been having alot of fun with my S5's camera, however the display on it is so stunning.... that it always ends up being a tad bit disappointing once I get the actual pics up on my comp....






Also, thanks to JamesW tremendously inspiring MOTM Robocop build, I re configured my motherboard tubing in the awesomest possible way...


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Been having alot of fun with my S5's camera, however the display on it is so stunning.... that it always ends up being a tad bit disappointing once I get the actual pics up on my comp....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, thanks to JamesW tremendously inspiring MOTM Robocop build, I re configured my motherboard tubing in the awesomest possible way...


Switch your camera to .RAW mode and use some color correction. You will have to use a program that is compatible with .RAW file type. I use photoshop. I can then select from a list of corrections based on the light the picture was taken in. That would help wonders with your pictures!

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Switch your camera to .RAW mode and use some color correction. You will have to use a program that is compatible with .RAW file type. I use photoshop. I can then select from a list of corrections based on the light the picture was taken in. That would help wonders with your pictures!
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


Ah, thanks fellow Washington brah!

What part of the state you located in, if you dont mind me asking?

Browns point, NE Tacoma over here.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Switch your camera to .RAW mode and use some color correction. You will have to use a program that is compatible with .RAW file type. I use photoshop. I can then select from a list of corrections based on the light the picture was taken in. That would help wonders with your pictures!
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, thanks fellow Washington brah!
> 
> What part of the state you located in, if you dont mind me asking?
> 
> Browns point, NE Tacoma over here.
Click to expand...

No problem, glad I could help. Currently across the sate in Pullman going to school. I'm from the Bellingham area though.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> No problem, glad I could help. Currently across the sate in Pullman going to school. I'm from the Bellingham area though.


ah, I was just up there not too long ago checking out Western. Im trying to become a Physical therapist and theres only 3 schools I believe that can offer a DPT. I may have to just go to a CC like olympic and become an assistant first, as Im not completely qualified just yet >.<

thats awesome though, I got some friends up in pullman from back in high school. Good times


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> The only other fitting material is acrylic, unless there may be some made of stainless - I don't have that info right now...


I have never seen acrylic fittings but I know you do get several plastic barbed fittings in both PVC and nylon.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> No problem, glad I could help. Currently across the sate in Pullman going to school. I'm from the *Bellingham* area though.


That's where I bought My car when I was in Oak Harbor.

The Cautious One


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Been having alot of fun with my S5's camera, however the display on it is so stunning.... that it always ends up being a tad bit disappointing once I get the actual pics up on my comp....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, thanks to JamesW tremendously inspiring MOTM Robocop build, I re configured my motherboard tubing in the awesomest possible way...


Damn that's hella nice! Although it urks me that you used acrylic tubing with loads of fittings, tbh the beauty of acrylic is in the bends you can do to it, still though, looks nice!


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Damn that's hella nice! Although it urks me that you used acrylic tubing with loads of fittings, tbh the beauty of acrylic is in the bends you can do to it, still though, looks nice!


I neither agree nor disagree with you. When it comes to acrylic I feel like it has two distinct looks like you said,

The Fitting Look:


The Bended Look:


http://imgur.com/7ad84E4



To me each has its own beauty (Sorry Snef for putting your builds on the spot here but they are an inspiration for me as I see computer building as a work of art).

The look of mostly fittings gives me feelings of futuristic, strong, machine like, constructed intelligently, technology.

The look of bended acrylic gives me feelings of free flowing, smooth, beautiful, craftsmanship, creativity.

So each type of build has its own place. Downside to the fittings look is it costs more and has more connections for possible leaks!! I hope my odd analysis of computer builds doesn't make me seem too weird


----------



## dodgethis

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-furious-vardar-ff5-120-3000rpm.html

Just ordered ordered eight of these with a friend. I am so looking forward to using them!


----------



## VSG

Be careful with your fingers


----------



## dodgethis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Be careful with your fingers


Speaking from experience?







I will probably keep the four at the top of my case, under an extended top and out of the main area. Well out of reach from fingers.


----------



## VSG

In a sense, yeah. These things move a ton of air so turning them on in the open for a DOA check isn't a great idea


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> In a sense, yeah. These things move a ton of air so turning them on in the open for a DOA check isn't a great idea


It's fine. I miss making delta hovercraft


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I neither agree nor disagree with you. When it comes to acrylic I feel like it has two distinct looks like you said,
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The Fitting Look:
> 
> 
> The Bended Look:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/7ad84E4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To me each has its own beauty (Sorry Snef for putting your builds on the spot here but they are an inspiration for me as I see computer building as a work of art).
> 
> The look of mostly fittings gives me feelings of *futuristic, strong, machine like, constructed intelligently, technology.*
> 
> The look of bended acrylic gives me feelings of free flowing, smooth, beautiful, craftsmanship, creativity.
> 
> So each type of build has its own place. Downside to the fittings look is it *costs more and has more connections for possible leaks*!! I hope my odd analysis of computer builds doesn't make me seem too weird


Kinda odd. But still all true.

The Cautious One


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> It's fine. I miss making delta hovercraft


Don't remind me- I have a few 4k+ rpm Deltas incoming.


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Don't remind me- I have a few 4k+ rpm Deltas incoming.


----------



## VSG

lol pretty much


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol pretty much


Maybe you should get this one here: 355m3/h AirFlow

Got mine from here: Click

I used them to mod a Thermaltake FRIO OCK and managed to push my 2600k to @5047MHz with it.



Had to combine it with a NZXT's Sentry Mesh Fan Controller, because my wife thought that I had a jet-engine running.


----------



## VSG

lol I am not paying $66 to test out a jet engine. Thanks for the link though, I know ebm-papst are top notch. Anyway I figure this is off topic in here since even the Vardar FF5 only goes up to 3000 rpm.


----------



## Leyaena

Speaking about the Vardars, did anyone actually test them yet?
I'm putting in extra radiator space really soon, so this is the moment where I either change out all my fans to Vardars, or order some more Noctua NF-F12's. What do you guys think?


----------



## VSG

I have but I can't link them here due to the ToS.


----------



## Ceadderman

Wait ToS only applies to posting sale info. Right? I am reasonably sure it doesn't apply to Testing. Do you mean NDA mebbe?









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Nah, the fans are out already so no NDA. I meant I can't post a link to another website which can be construed as advertising.


----------



## Pheozero

Pretty sure I can post it though.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/12/03/first-look-testing-ekwb-vardar-fans/


----------



## WhiteWulfe

There are even newer links, with some rather... Interesting results in my eyes.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No the BP's are Silver Shining and the AF are Nickel. They are identical in terms of color.
> 
> In my Xenomorph build I used EK Black Nickel and I had to use some BP for the drain valve. Here's a picture I took when I was doing some fitment tests you can see the EK Black Nickel and the BP valve in Black Sparkle. Again very close color match.
> 
> 
> 
> I still haven't use the EK-AF adapters since the build that they are going in isn't started yet so I can't say for now sorry.
> 
> And BP are made of brass not copper.


http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big14shsitrr1.html

"high quality copper mateial" could be a typo or something though...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big14shsitrr1.html
> 
> "high quality copper mateial" could be a typo or something though...


Yeah its just a mistake. All common fittings are brass

http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=155_167&products_id=436

Features:
True Hi-Flow Design.
Hi-Quality Brass Material.
90-Degree Type With Triple 360-Degree Rotation.
High Durability Nickel Finished In Silver Shining Color.
Hiding O-Ring Design.
Design For Multi-Angle Rotary With ID 7/16" OD 5/8" Tube Application.
RoHS Compliant.


----------



## TONSCHUH

EK introduces Advanced Compression Fittings


----------



## dansi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Hi EK,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got question about your DC12 pump loop directions.
> 
> From your test data, which of the below 2 is recommended?
> 
> *1. From DC12 pump outlet (top) to rad in and then rad out towards CPU block in and from CPU block out back to XRes in.*
> Pro.
> This would give the coolest coolant flowing across the CPU.
> 
> Cons
> Pump will receive very hot water and it will affect the life and even noise? It is after all rated at 25 dc. Of course dependent on how often CPU is at 100%?
> 
> *2. From DC12 pump outlet (top) to CPU block in and from CPU block out to rad in and rad out towards XRes in*
> Pro
> Pump gets cooled coolant
> CPU block gets the highest pressure direct from the pump, works better for high restriction block like the Phobya UC Extreme?
> 
> Cons.
> CPU may gets warmer by a few degrees as DC12 pump are known to dump heat into the coolant?


Any tips for a EK newb?


----------



## Ceadderman

@dansi... Edit that 2nd plea for assistance Mate.I would suggest always to block over outlet to Rad.









Hey are those comp barbs Silver or Nickel plated? They look too shiny to be Nickel. But that could be the lighting.









~Ceadder


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey are those comp barbs Silver or Nickel plated? They look too shiny to be Nickel. But that could be the lighting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> The barb of these two-piece fittings is made of nickel-plated CNC machined brass while the ring is made of either nickel-plated brass or anodized aluminum (depending on the variant). These fittings are fully compatible with EK-AF series (45°/90°) angled adapters.


PS: I would have thought that there would be a green model as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Tbh, I am surprised they don't have them as well as Purple.









Just looked @ the linkage an since I am on my phone, I can't leave suggestive feedback.

So... Once again I will say that they should see about making a quarterly run of previous generation blocks to order. The schematics don't get deleted, so the cost of doing such a thing can't inflate production costs all that much imho.

Specifically Copper blocks and then plated as necessary.

For a slight fee increase of course.









~Ceadder


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Tbh, I am surprised they don't have them as well as Purple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just looked @ the linkage an since I am on my phone, I can't leave suggestive feedback.
> 
> So... Once again I will say that they should see about making a quarterly run of previous generation blocks to order. The schematics don't get deleted, so the cost of doing such a thing can't inflate production costs all that much imho.
> 
> Specifically Copper blocks and then plated as necessary.
> 
> For a slight fee increase of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sounds like a good idea.














Could be quite handy, if you struggle with too large fingers / hands.


----------



## Ceadderman

Having a couple GPU that I can no longer get FC blocks for brings out the best ideas in me.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Panther Al

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> 
> 
> EK introduces Advanced Compression Fittings


Woooo!

Copper Colour!

Now if only they had the smooth Copper Supremacy EVO...


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Hi EK,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got question about your DC12 pump loop directions.
> 
> From your test data, which of the below 2 is recommended?
> 
> 1. From DC12 pump outlet (top) to rad in and then rad out towards CPU block in and from CPU block out back to XRes in.
> Pro.
> This would give the coolest coolant flowing across the CPU.
> 
> Cons
> Pump will receive *very hot water* and it will affect the life and even noise? It is after all rated at 25 dc. Of course dependent on how often CPU is at 100%?
> 
> 2. From DC12 pump outlet (top) to CPU block in and from CPU block out to rad in and rad out towards XRes in
> Pro
> Pump gets cooled coolant
> CPU block gets the *highest pressure direct from the pump*, works better for high restriction block like the Phobya UC Extreme?
> 
> Cons.
> CPU may gets warmer by a few degrees as DC12 pump are known to dump heat into the coolant?


I think you have two misunderstandings about the processes involved (highlighted in your post in bold). Firstly, the variation in temperatures within a water loop. The coolant flows fast enough and has a large enough heat capacity, that each component is barely able to heat the coolant up. Although water can carry hundreds of watts of heat, the distance before the radiator is so short that the water is only heated a fraction of a degree. Secondly, the pressure in a pump-driven loop is equal everywhere. Each component added can lower the overall pressure, and parallel piping can decrease pressure in that line of the plumbing, but anything connected in series has equal pressure.

For example, from Martin's radiator testing, you can see that even with fans at full speed (2200rpm) the radiator is able to remove 300W of heat from the coolant, while the temperature only drops by 0.75C. (The air passing through the rad is heated more dramatically however: 7.5C)

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/4/


To address your overall question: the best way to set up a loop is more dependent on how easy it is to bleed and drain. If possible you want the pump at the lowest point and the reservoir above it, and the rest doesn't really matter. Certainly you would need specialist equipment to measure any difference between pump-block-rad-res and pump-rad-block-res, other variable notwithstanding.


----------



## Nichismo

people worry about loop order way too much.

so many other trivial things of similar stature that people put far too much emphasis on. Sometimes its helpful to take a step back and look at the big picture


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> people worry about loop order way too much.
> 
> so many other trivial things of similar stature that people put far too much emphasis on. Sometimes its helpful to take a step back and look at the big picture


I would think looking at the "Big picture" would sometimes incorporate the Loop order Sir.







Just my









TCO


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I would think looking at the "Big picture" would sometimes incorporate the Loop order Sir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


hence "sometimes" and "too much emphasis"

it was a pretty general statement, and I didnt use any examples


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> hence "sometimes" and "too much emphasis"
> 
> it was a pretty general statement, and I didnt use any examples


I find planning the Loop to be very extensive. I want to be thorough and make sure that I am getting heat out in an efficient manner. Expecially without a ton of knowledge backing any progression of A build. You would have to learn while working.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

While Wisk is right I must point out that pushing water from the pump to the Radiator adds an immediate restriction in almost all cases. Now that may not be a Big deal over the long haul, it makes filling your loop more of a PiTA than necessary. Imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnedone

Anyone know if the installed jet plate on a supremacy(non evo) is the best plate for a naked 3770k?

Would the thinnest her plate be the best choice?


----------



## VSG

Yeah I would think so too


----------



## dansi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I think you have two misunderstandings about the processes involved (highlighted in your post in bold). Firstly, the variation in temperatures within a water loop. The coolant flows fast enough and has a large enough heat capacity, that each component is barely able to heat the coolant up. Although water can carry hundreds of watts of heat, the distance before the radiator is so short that the water is only heated a fraction of a degree. Secondly, the pressure in a pump-driven loop is equal everywhere. Each component added can lower the overall pressure, and parallel piping can decrease pressure in that line of the plumbing, but anything connected in series has equal pressure.
> 
> For example, from Martin's radiator testing, you can see that even with fans at full speed (2200rpm) the radiator is able to remove 300W of heat from the coolant, while the temperature only drops by 0.75C. (The air passing through the rad is heated more dramatically however: 7.5C)
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/4/
> 
> 
> To address your overall question: the best way to set up a loop is more dependent on how easy it is to bleed and drain. If possible you want the pump at the lowest point and the reservoir above it, and the rest doesn't really matter. Certainly you would need specialist equipment to measure any difference between pump-block-rad-res and pump-rad-block-res, other variable notwithstanding.


thanks Mister!
seems no difference in temps for a cpu only loop
Hence i will set my loop for the most convenient and of course res before pump is noted.


----------



## dansi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> While Wisk is right I must point out that pushing water from the pump to the Radiator adds an immediate restriction in almost all cases. Now that may not be a Big deal over the long haul, it makes filling your loop more of a PiTA than necessary. Imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


so pump to cpu block is slight better?

because my case, pump to cpu block is easier to loop than pump to rad.

since temp wise is insignificant either way, i am happy just go for easiest setup


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Anyone know if the installed jet plate on a supremacy(non evo) is the best plate for a naked 3770k?
> 
> Would the thinnest her plate be the best choice?


Nope, the pre-installed jet plate J1 is the optimal one for LGA2011 not LGA1150, for your CPU you'll want to swap out Jet Plate J1 for J2 and keep insert I1 in it. Unless yours shipped with plate J2 already installed for some reason, read the manual if you have one; it'll let you know which plate is pre-installed. As i mentioned, J2 is the one you want.


----------



## sinnedone

I have the supremacy without the inserts though, and am running a delidded cpu. I think the delidded thing might change the recommended plate for some reason.


----------



## hiarc

Any updates on the upcoming 140mm fans? Going to need some soon for a new build.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> While Wisk is right I must point out that pushing water from the pump to the Radiator adds an immediate restriction in almost all cases. Now that may not be a Big deal over the long haul, it makes filling your loop more of a PiTA than necessary. Imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so pump to cpu block is slight better?
> 
> because my case, pump to cpu block is easier to loop than pump to rad.
> 
> since temp wise is insignificant either way, i am happy just go for easiest setup
Click to expand...

Then go young Padawan. Don't sweat the small banthu fodder and go Pump to CPU. As you say, it's the simplest route for you to go.









~Ceadder


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Any updates on the upcoming 140mm fans? Going to need some soon for a new build.


I'm curious as well. @akira749, any news on the 140mm Vardar fans yet?


----------



## marsey99

i only use a pump res combo from ek, but that counts too right?

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o164/marsey99/back.jpg


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I'm curious as well. @akira749, any news on the 140mm Vardar fans yet?


I believe that final preproduction models are done/underway now, with serial production going to happen soon.


----------



## demitrisln

Hello all,
I have a question. I just bought my second Sapphire R9 290X with EK fulll waterblock. I'm wondering which EK SLI connector I need to get to connect these together? Below is a link to my motherboards website if that helps.

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4672#ov

and I think this is the connector I need....

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10970/ex-blc-757/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Serial_-_SLI_Connection_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Serial.html?tl=g57c645s2061


----------



## Reaper28

Is anyone running Plexi or CSQ blocks with red LED's?. I'm still deciding on whether I should get Acetal, Plexi or CSQ. I'm leaning towards Plexi but its not easy to find pics of the blocks lit up with red LED's and distilled water for some reason


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Any updates on the upcoming 140mm fans? Going to need some soon for a new build.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I'm curious as well. @akira749, any news on the 140mm Vardar fans yet?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I believe that final preproduction models are done/underway now, with serial production going to happen soon.


The last news I had is that they should be available by the end of the month.

EDIT : It might be more march than february


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Is anyone running Plexi or CSQ blocks with red LED's?. I'm still deciding on whether I should get Acetal, Plexi or CSQ. I'm leaning towards Plexi but its not easy to find pics of the blocks lit up with red LED's and distilled water for some reason


I have 2x970 with Plexiblock that I will be installing on Wednesday or Thursday. I have a red led laying around, so I might be able to fix you some pictures if i remember (and I will be running distilled water)


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Is anyone running Plexi or CSQ blocks with red LED's?. I'm still deciding on whether I should get Acetal, Plexi or CSQ. I'm leaning towards Plexi but its not easy to find pics of the blocks lit up with red LED's and distilled water for some reason


Not the best picture but I have red LED's on my LTX block.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Hello all,
> I have a question. I just bought my second Sapphire R9 290X with EK fulll waterblock. I'm wondering which EK SLI connector I need to get to connect these together? Below is a link to my motherboards website if that helps.
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4672#ov
> 
> and I think this is the connector I need....
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10970/ex-blc-757/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Serial_-_SLI_Connection_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Serial.html?tl=g57c645s2061


Ok can you tell or show me which waterblock you have? It will make a difference on what you need.

Also, the EK-FC Bridge that you linked id for the older kind of blocks so it won't fit.


----------



## vMax65

Opps post below.


----------



## sinnedone

Akira749

Any idea on the best jet plate on the supremacy (non evo) on die mount 3770k?


----------



## vMax65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Is anyone running Plexi or CSQ blocks with red LED's?. I'm still deciding on whether I should get Acetal, Plexi or CSQ. I'm leaning towards Plexi but its not easy to find pics of the blocks lit up with red LED's and distilled water for some reason


Sorry for double post, but here is my setup with red led's... looks a lot better in real life as the red stands out more and goes all the way across the top.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Akira749
> 
> Any idea on the best jet plate on the supremacy (non evo) on die mount 3770k?


No sorry


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Hello all,
> I have a question. I just bought my second Sapphire R9 290X with EK fulll waterblock. I'm wondering which EK SLI connector I need to get to connect these together? Below is a link to my motherboards website if that helps.
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4672#ov
> 
> and I think this is the connector I need....
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10970/ex-blc-757/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Serial_-_SLI_Connection_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Serial.html?tl=g57c645s2061


the waterblock on your gpu that determines whether you need an EK terminal or an EK bridge using EK link. Basically, if your waterblock is the "CSQ' design (so if it has the little circle pattern on it) then you'll need to use an EK-FC Bridge like the one in your link. If it doesn't have the CSQ design you'll wANT AN EK-FC Terminal, i would personally reccomend that you go for parallel flow though as pretty much all testing has either said they are equal or that parallel is better for flow.

Looking at your motherboard it appears that the first and second pci-e slots are the wider spaced variant

You said that your gpu's are sapphire 290X so i assume you're using the EK-FC Vapor-X block right? this one -> (or the black acetal version) http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-vaporx-nickel.html

In that case you'll want an EK-FC terminal instead of the EK-FC bridge you linked above, the thing i'm wondering about though is, looking at your motherboard the 1st and 2nd pci-e slots look farther apart than the 3rd/4th etc.. so i don't know if a dual one would fit, and a 3 slot might be the opposite (too long). So as long as you don't mind putting your graphics cards in the 2nd and 3rd pci slot instead of 1st and 2nd then the dual ek terminal will work fine. If you really want to keep them in the top two slots, then measure the distance between the top of the 1st slot to the bottom of the 2nd slot. If it's 1.6inches you're golden for 2 slot, if it's 3.2 inches then a 3 slot will work (make sure to buy an ek-fc blank to fill the empty 2nd slot though)

(dual slot terminal)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18973/ex-blc-1421/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Dual_Parallel_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_DUAL_Parallel.html?tl=g57c645s2060

(dual slot plexi version)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25777/ex-blc-1887/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Dual_Parallel_-_Plexi_EK-FC_Terminal_DUAL_Parallel_-_Plexi.html?tl=g57c645s2060

(triple slot terminal)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19897/ex-blc-1450/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Dual_Parallel_3-Slot_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_DUAL_Parallel_3-Slot.html?tl=g57c645s2060

(triple slot plexi version)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25779/ex-blc-1889/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Dual_Parallel_3-Slot_-_Plexi_EK-FC_Terminal_DUAL_Parallel_3-Slot_-_Plexi.html?tl=g57c645s2060


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Is anyone running Plexi or CSQ blocks with red LED's?. I'm still deciding on whether I should get Acetal, Plexi or CSQ. I'm leaning towards Plexi but its not easy to find pics of the blocks lit up with red LED's and distilled water for some reason


i don't have pics of it, but i've personally seen rigs using LED's with a plexi and CSQ block (blue and red led respectively) and in my opinion the plexi original CSQ version looks fantastic with led's. I'm running with regular plexi on my gpu since it doesn't come with a CSQ version, and i would've gotten a CSQ ram waterblock if i hadn't accidentally got dominator platinum not knowing they can't be watercooled. Other than that i'm going "full CSQ", using the original CSQ EK Supremacy Evo CPU block, and going to buy a plexi original CSQ pump top for my mcp-655 pump. I'm also using the EK-FC Terminal Dual slot plexi version (again, would've gotten the EK-FC bridge in CSQ if my GTX970 had the CSQ block available that supports the EK-bridge CSQ versions.)


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Akira749
> 
> Any idea on the best jet plate on the supremacy (non evo) on die mount 3770k?


Jet plate J2 is the one you want for LGA 1150/1155, J1 is typically pre-installed (J1 is LGA2011 optimized) although check your manual to be sure since i only know for sure that the Supreme HF and the Supremacy Evo ship with the J1 pre-installed. but regardless, the J2 plate is what you'll want.


----------



## VSG

Except, the flatter the heatsink, the thinner the jetplate needs to be more often than not. On a bare die, I really think the thinnest jetplate makes sense. I could be mistaken though!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Except, the flatter the heatsink, the thinner the jetplate needs to be more often than not. On a bare die, I really think the thinnest jetplate makes sense. I could be mistaken though!


Thats my thinking as well. I guess I might need to send ek an email. I'll double check the instructions from the naked kit but I don't think it mentioned anything about a jet plate.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thats my thinking as well. I guess I might need to send ek an email. I'll double check the instructions from the naked kit but I don't think it mentioned anything about a jet plate.


I don't know if the supremacy manual says anything but i just checked the supreamcy evo manual and it does say the same thing about plate J1 being for LGA 1150/1155 cpu's and J2 (pre-installed) being optimized for LGA 2011. Either way it can't hurt to email EK for some answers. You might get quicker results calling frozencpu's phone number though, ask for Jeff if he's available, he's helped me several times picking out the correct watercooling parts and stuff.. (1-877-243-8266)


----------



## Qu1ckset




----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*










....whuzzat? is that an EK case? tell me it is! i saw it say chassis but can't make out the rest of the writing.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Speaking of news from EK, they just released a new line of compression fittings. EK-AFC fittings (advanced compression) they have a better locking mechanism requiring the barb to be locked in place with an allen key, and updated o ring design, with lower profile size etc..

http://www.ekwb.com/news/565/19/EK-introduces-Advanced-Compression-Fittings/

If i wasn't considering going with acrylic tubing with bitspower 12mm rigid fittings i'd definitely be trying these babies out


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....what is that? is that an EK case? tell me it is! i saw it say chassis but can't make out the rest of the writing.


Looks like a case yeah.

Hopefully it support ATX.


----------



## Puedpued

There should be acrylic top and bottom for the reservoirs, it'll look really nice


----------



## Rahldrac

Can anybody post any pictures of their EK fittings with tubes? I'm in the process of installing my first loop. Just want to see the gap left between the outer and inner ring?


----------



## Reaper28

Thanks for the pics akira749, & vMax65. I definitely like the look of the plexi but something about the CSQ seems elegant. I saw one picture of somebody with all plexi blocks, CPU, 3 GPU lit up white and it looked great. I want my CPU, GPU and res to stand out with red led's I just don't want it to look crappy lol. I love the look though of red tubing (which I will be using) and how it looks connected to an acetal block (doing red/black theme) but with the plexi it will stand out more. Decisions


----------



## Wirerat

Im about to build my first custom loop using the EK L360 kit. Im moving it into a fractal R5 case.

I think i bought everything I need but any advice is welcome.

I have the l360 kit, gtx 970 ftw waterblock and two high flow 3/8 barb 1/4 thread fittings.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Im about to build my first custom loop using the EK L360 kit. Im moving it into a fractal R5 case.
> 
> I think i bought everything I need but any advice is welcome.
> 
> I have the l360 kit, gtx 970 ftw waterblock and two high flow 3/8 barb 1/4 thread fittings.


I have that kit(mine was the XTX version), and it did just fine on a 3570k and 7970, both heavily overclocked. Good place to start, should be plenty for a 970 and CPU.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Any Takers?

TCO


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I have that kit(mine was the XTX version), and it did just fine on a 3570k and 7970, both heavily overclocked. Good place to start, should be plenty for a 970 and CPU.


Thats what i wanted to hear. I wanted to keep it simple and use a single rad. Are those fittings all i need for the gpu block? I figure it comes with the plugs.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I have that kit(mine was the XTX version), and it did just fine on a 3570k and 7970, both heavily overclocked. Good place to start, should be plenty for a 970 and CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> Thats what i wanted to hear. I wanted to keep it simple and use a single rad. Are those fittings all i need for the gpu block? I figure it comes with the plugs.
Click to expand...

I am not a fan of barbs, compression fittings are more expensive, but look better, and dont have to be clamped to feel like they are secure.

Edit to add: the block should come with plugs. And the pump gets a bad rep because it is not as quiet as the D5s, but mine has never missed a beat and is still rocking strong 24/7 for ~2 years.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I am not a fan of barbs, compression fittings are more expensive, but look better, and dont have to be clamped to feel like they are secure.
> 
> Edit to add: the block should come with plugs. And the pump gets a bad rep because it is not as quiet as the D5s, but mine has never missed a beat and is still rocking strong 24/7 for ~2 years.


Well I had to make some trade offs with a $250 kit i guess. If the pump is obnoxious I will upgrade it later.

I just realized the kit comes with compression fittings and l bought barbs for the gpu. Oops. Thanks for pointing that out. I will try and order the ones that match the other compression fittings.

Are the barbes i ordered the right size though?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I am not a fan of barbs, compression fittings are more expensive, but look better, and dont have to be clamped to feel like they are secure.
> 
> Edit to add: the block should come with plugs. And the pump gets a bad rep because it is not as quiet as the D5s, but mine has never missed a beat and is still rocking strong 24/7 for ~2 years.
> 
> 
> 
> Well I had to make some trade offs with a $250 kit i guess. If the pump is obnoxious I will upgrade it later.
> 
> I just realized the kit comes with compression fittings and l bought barbs for the gpu. Oops. Thanks for pointing that out. I will try and order the ones that match the other compression fittings.
> 
> Are the barbes i ordered the right size though?
Click to expand...

yes, but give the guys a FCPU a call on the telephone and tell them you want to swap them for compression and they can get your straightened out. I have dealt with them in the past getting things figured out, and they were great. Both FCPU and PPCS are great on the phone to work with.


----------



## Rahldrac

Anybody got any good examples of led in the new GPU water blocks? I wonder if I should go White or Red in my SLI setup.
I have a Red/black theme going already, but I worry the red light will be "too much". I do like to have things rather clean as oppose to bling/gaudy.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any Takers?
> 
> TCO


Absolutely stunning - I'll take two please!

CSQ polished does somehow look better than clean plexi. I went with clean plexi for my Sup' EVO though


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Absolutely stunning - I'll take two please!
> 
> CSQ polished does somehow look better than clean plexi. I went with clean plexi for my Sup' EVO though


I have purchased quite a few Ek Blocks (All CSQ) I can never bring myself to get a clean look. I feel like putting in the work you know?









The Cautious ONe


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> yes, but give the guys a FCPU a call on the telephone and tell them you want to swap them for compression and they can get your straightened out. I have dealt with them in the past getting things figured out, and they were great. Both FCPU and PPCS are great on the phone to work with.


thanks. Those barbs were only like $4 for both. I will just keep them and order the ones that match the kit.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Anybody got any good examples of led in the new GPU water blocks? I wonder if I should go White or Red in my SLI setup.
> I have a Red/black theme going already, but I worry the red light will be "too much". I do like to have things rather clean as oppose to bling/gaudy.






A few examples that were posted here lately


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few examples that were posted here lately


Dat Middle Picture Is esquite



TCO


----------



## Rahldrac

Perfect! When ordering from EK I have to have an order over 10 euro anyway, so I am ordering two red and two white ones. Even though it seems like I will be going with white!


----------



## Ceadderman

Pretty sure the case is ITX only @tt.









~Ceadder


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty sure the case is ITX only @tt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


yep ITX only


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Anybody got any good examples of led in the new GPU water blocks? I wonder if I should go White or Red in my SLI setup.
> I have a Red/black theme going already, but I worry the red light will be "too much". I do like to have things rather clean as oppose to bling/gaudy.


I was facing the same dilemma, running a black and red theme build, with a rampage IV black edition motherboard, corsair 900d black case, was gonna get the swiftech apogee xl cpu waterblock with the custom performance-pcs.com ROG logo etched into it, etc.. but i decided to go with a white/black build because it looked better. clear bitspower acrylic tubing with black sparkle fittings, mayhems ice white pastel coolant, supremacy evo original CSQ nickel/plexi cpu waterblock, 2 x GTX970 gigabyte EK waterblocks in nickel/plexi, an EK-FC dual parallel terminal in plexi, EK RES X3 250 reservoir, EK D5 plexi pump top etc.. and i'm going to use white LED fans on my top mounted XSPC EX480 radiator as well as white LED's inside the res/pump top/blocks etc.. definitely looks amazing imo.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> yep ITX only


GAH! comes on!!! *every dirty word ever uttered in human history* -___- Was hoping for a caselabs-esque case from the evil geniuses at EK to replace my 900D..


----------



## akira749

The Vulture is indeed an ITX case

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> ...Was hoping for a caselabs-esque case from the evil geniuses at EK to replace my 900D..


Well, Case Labs is your best answer then?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> GAH! comes on!!! *every dirty word ever uttered in human history* -___- Was hoping for a caselabs-esque case from the evil geniuses at EK to replace my 900D..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The Vulture is indeed an ITX case
> Well, Case Labs is your best answer then?


Don't understand why anyone would want to ever buy a case that was not case labs or blocks that were not EK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Don't understand why anyone would want to ever buy a case that was not case labs or blocks that were not EK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


uh....price? i know caselabs cases are custom and all but they are definitely ridiculously expensive, especially the magnum ones. I would be able to buy two high quality 480 rads along with the 900D i got for about the cost of a base/non modified SMA8 from Caselabs. They also make you wait over a month just to put the thing together on top of the week-ish for shipping. i don't have the patience lol. i did see someone selling their caselabs STH10 on ebay though, wish i would've seen it before i bought the 900D.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> yep ITX only


what kind of witchcraft is this!...can't....stop....bobbing...head....to...profile...pic....


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> uh....price? i know caselabs cases are custom and all but they are definitely ridiculously expensive, especially the magnum ones. I would be able to buy two high quality 480 rads along with the 900D i got for about the cost of a base/non modified SMA8 from Caselabs. They also make you wait over a month just to put the thing together on top of the week-ish for shipping. i don't have the patience lol. i did see someone selling their caselabs STH10 on ebay though, wish i would've seen it before i bought the 900D.


They are not expensive for what you get trust me on this!!! Now I can understand about not wanting to wait but if you ever get one you will wonder why you ever spent money on other cases... And you statement with the 900d maybe true but you have no upgrade path with you case like you would with a case labs case.

what ever makes you happy man!!! enjoying seeing you post and comments. if you decide on matte black fittings let me know!!!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Don't understand why anyone would want to ever buy a case that was not case labs


Aesthetically speaking, theyre not very nice looking. I appreciate what they are and their ability to be custom ordered with all the options etc, but in the end to me at least theyre not very good looking. Personal preferance though.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> They are not expensive for what you get trust me on this!!! Now I can understand about not wanting to wait but if you ever get one you will wonder why you ever spent money on other cases... And you statement with the 900d maybe true but you have no upgrade path with you case like you would with a case labs case.


^^This


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> uh....price? i know caselabs cases are custom and all but they are definitely ridiculously expensive, especially the magnum ones. I would be able to buy two high quality 480 rads along with the 900D i got for about the cost of a base/non modified SMA8 from Caselabs. They also make you wait over a month just to put the thing together on top of the week-ish for shipping. i don't have the patience lol. i did see someone selling their caselabs STH10 on ebay though, wish i would've seen it before i bought the 900D.


I felt the same way until I actually ordered one for a "client build". Immediately I saw what the fuss was about - the quality is absolutely ridiculous. I've had several 900D's and the quality is a total zero compared to a caselabs - seriously not even close. Pictures do not convey the quality difference. Kind of like when you see a $400 Ikea sofa in a catalog with it's luscious Swedish design and you see a very similar looking $2500 sofa in a different Swedish furniture catalog - both look the same, why spend $2500 when you can save cash and get the "same" thing for $400..... Then you sit on it.... Well enough of my rambling lol


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I felt the same way until I actually ordered one for a "client build". Immediately I saw what the fuss was about - the quality is absolutely ridiculous. I've had several 900D's and the quality is a total zero compared to a caselabs - seriously not even close. Pictures do not convey the quality difference. Kind of like when you see a $400 Ikea sofa in a catalog with it's luscious Swedish design and you see a very similar looking $2500 sofa in a different Swedish furniture catalog - both look the same, why spend $2500 when you can save cash and get the "same" thing for $400..... Then you sit on it.... Well enough of my rambling lol


Definitely agree. Just recently built in the Caselabs Mercury S3 for a family member and it really changed my view on high end cases and their worth. The craftsmanship in the S3 is amazing, and their powder coating is voodoo because I've banged panels against each other multiple times on accident while assembling the loop, and they never scuffed/scratched.

But honestly, the biggest thing that you'll notice with an exceptionally well built and sturdy case like Caselabs stuff is actually the transfer of vibration from the pump to the case. Because you can never fully isolate the pump's vibration from the chassis it sits in. And a rinky dink average case will have a subtle vibration that is audible to the ear. Whereas the sturdy, well-built case won't be vibrating so much that you can hear it. (I hope I'm conveying this point right. Tired and about to pass out).

TL;DR: I used to complain about high cost cases. But now my wallet will complain because I'll force myself to get a high quality case next time, rather than a mass market case like the Switch 810.

Now if only Hans and Nate could reduce the price of the R40 just a bit......


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Definitely agree. Just recently built in the Caselabs Mercury S3 for a family member and it really changed my view on high end cases and their worth. The craftsmanship in the S3 is amazing, and their powder coating is voodoo because I've banged panels against each other multiple times on accident while assembling the loop, and they never scuffed/scratched.
> 
> Now if only Hans and Nate could reduce the price of the R40 just a bit......


The Hex Gear case is of equal quality. Absolutely rock solid. The thing I love about the R40 compared to an equally sized/equipped caselabs is the more stylish, artistic design as opposed to the bland industrial look of the caselabs. Not to knock the caselabs design, it's just nice to have something that's in the same league of quality, but with a prettier design


----------



## Pheozero

To be honest, the only case that might actually make me switch from my Mercury S5 is probably the R40. That case is amazingly sexy


----------



## akira749

What's common about Case Labs, Hexgear and Parvum to only name a few, is that they all are boutique computer cases. They aren't stamped on a production line.









This translate into the quality of the materials and construction. Before I took a dive into this exclusive universe, I was looking at the cheapest computer case since they were all feeling cheap to me and now I would have a hard time going back to a stamped case with flimsy steel sheets.

Like James said, Case Labs aren't focusing on the artistic look since the original (and still their biggest buyer) targeted market is government and law-enforcement agencies. Personaly, I love the industrial look they have but their biggest advantage is their modularity! Hexgear has very sleek and smooth lines that feels luxury and Parvum goes on the other end with hard edges but still feels luxury.

If EK were to released the EK-Vulture, it would fall into the same "boutique cases" family.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Don't understand why anyone would want to ever buy a case that was not case labs


They aren't exactly great looking cases and the designs are rather basic. I personally would never use one.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few examples that were posted here lately


Would you happen to have the white led shots in red? looks awesome


----------



## Doc3379

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They aren't exactly great looking cases and the designs are rather basic. I personally would never use one.


THIS! Caselabs might make a great water cooling case, but for a bunch of machine punched pre-made panels... it is extremely overpriced. The cases are very blah as far as aesthetics go, not to mention that most of them are WAY too damn big. Even after you load in all of your parts, there are huge voids in your case that look empty and bare. I understand why they can be ideal for some. A case that costs as much as a 6 core i7, or a new GTX980, or a high end X99 mobo... that just does not compute to me.


----------



## inedenimadam

I have been an EK owner for ~2 years, and was impressed enough with the supremacy-naked keeping me frosty and 5.0 for 24/7, that I have decided to go EK again with my second full loop. This time it will be a Haswell-E and Maxwell sli...



I have not purchased the GPU blocks yet, because I am on the fence with the full cover vs. uni block. I honestly dont think the 980s I just bought are going to be long term residents. I have full cover blocks for my 7970s, so I am not opposed to full cover blocks, just hesitant because I have to buy new ones for every card.

Can anybody speak on the merits of the new uni blocks EK has put out? More specifically, how do you handle VRM cooling in a fashion that is both efficient, and elegant?

Also, will the Asus x99 mosfet block fit the x99-A? Cooling configurator doesn't seem to think so, but it looks like a dead ringer.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Really kind of upset now that I have been waiting 4 weeks since EK shipped out the springs missing from my Supremacy EVO kit bought back in December.

Tired of waiting, had no idea it would take that long. Found some EK replacement springs at FrozenCPU that I hope are the right ones, should be here Friday and then I can finish my damn build.

Otherwise, been looking at my 980 Strix with EK block and backplate, plus the gold monsoon fittings and it is sexy. I really do like what EK has been doing with the aesthetics since they got away from the horrendous circles.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Also, will the Asus x99 mosfet block fit the x99-A? Cooling configurator doesn't seem to think so, but it looks like a dead ringer.


The VRM section under the mosfet heatsink differ between the Asus boards so this is probably why it isn't compatible.

The VRM section of the X99-Pro is the same as the X99-A and those two aren't in the compatibility list.

The VRM section of the X99-Deluxe is the same as the X99-S and those two are in the compatibility list.

We currently have no plans for the Pro and the A sorry.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Beregond*
> 
> Really kind of upset now that I have been waiting 4 weeks since EK shipped out the springs missing from my Supremacy EVO kit bought back in December.


I'm also waiting on parts for my block and I'm really surprised they weren't shipped out using a faster shipping method.

Only good thing is that the extra time waiting has given me a few more ideas....or maybe that's a bad thing


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We currently have no plans for the Pro and the A sorry.


No sweat, I wouldn't expect someone in your position to say anything different. I might still pick it up anyway. It is different for sure, but not necessarily incompatible. The hole layout appears to be 100% dead match, and I see nothing that would interfere. I am actually over budget on my build already, so I might just wait and see how hot it gets first, then wait for the planned expansion to give it a go.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> I'm also waiting on parts for my block and I'm really surprised they weren't shipped out using a faster shipping method.
> 
> Only good thing is that the extra time waiting has given me a few more ideas....or maybe that's a bad thing


Yep. No update on the tracking since 1/9.

Oh well....sourced the damn things from somewhere else. EK needs to clearly do some better quality control before sealing up their stuff for selling.


----------



## Rahldrac

So It seems like I have built myself into a corner! I have the EK-XRES DCP 4.0 PWM (Incl. Pump)
And it seems like there is just not enough room between my radiator and the pump to make this work. So I am thinking about mounting a D5 pump+res on my front radiator (only place where I have space). But i would need to have the opportunity to both fill the loop and have my rad enter at the top of the res.

So I guess I will need to buy a new EK-XRES 140 D5 Vario (incl. pump), then I will need to buy a multiport top, an internal tube, and a mounting mechanism?

Any other Ideas for how I can solve this?


I have tried with a lot of different fittings, but doing this with tubes always leaves a kink. And I have heard that kinks are the worst.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> So It seems like I have built myself into a corner! I have the EK-XRES DCP 4.0 PWM (Incl. Pump)
> And it seems like there is just not enough room between my radiator and the pump to make this work. So I am thinking about mounting a D5 pump+res on my front radiator (only place where I have space). But i would need to have the opportunity to both fill the loop and have my rad enter at the top of the res.
> 
> So I guess I will need to buy a new EK-XRES 140 D5 Vario (incl. pump), then I will need to buy a multiport top, an internal tube, and a mounting mechanism?
> 
> Any other Ideas for how I can solve this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried with a lot of different fittings, but doing this with tubes always leaves a kink. And I have heard that kinks are the worst.


Do you have another angled adapter available? If you have one then you could put it on the radiator port.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> They are not expensive for what you get trust me on this!!! Now I can understand about not wanting to wait but if you ever get one you will wonder why you ever spent money on other cases... And you statement with the 900d maybe true but you have no upgrade path with you case like you would with a case labs case.
> 
> what ever makes you happy man!!! enjoying seeing you post and comments. if you decide on matte black fittings let me know!!!


Oh believe me i'm regretting not getting an SMA8 now rather than a 900D. If i knew i'd be waiting a few weeks for my next check to buy fittings and tubing i would've just gone with the SMA8. But in reality, i wouldn't have been able to afford some of the last few items i'm getting if i had gone with the SMA8 (RAM, bitspower fittings, acrylic tubing, fans, a 240gb or 480gb SSD, custom sleeved white psu cables, an nvidia claw logo sli bridge etc..)


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I have been an EK owner for ~2 years, and was impressed enough with the supremacy-naked keeping me frosty and 5.0 for 24/7, that I have decided to go EK again with my second full loop. This time it will be a Haswell-E and Maxwell sli...
> 
> 
> 
> I have not purchased the GPU blocks yet, because I am on the fence with the full cover vs. uni block. I honestly dont think the 980s I just bought are going to be long term residents. I have full cover blocks for my 7970s, so I am not opposed to full cover blocks, just hesitant because I have to buy new ones for every card.
> 
> Can anybody speak on the merits of the new uni blocks EK has put out? More specifically, how do you handle VRM cooling in a fashion that is both efficient, and elegant?
> 
> Also, will the Asus x99 mosfet block fit the x99-A? Cooling configurator doesn't seem to think so, but it looks like a dead ringer.


I was curious about the X99 mosfet block as well, specifically whether it would fit my Rampage IV BLack Edition or not. It has mostly the same screw lineup and i'd really rather not buy a whole southbridge block as well since EK decided to be greedy and only sell the RIVBE mosfet as a combo with the rest of the mobo block for $139 while mosfet blocks by themself are typically $50. (the X99 one is $47) so i wish i knew if that or another asus one would fit the RIVBE.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> I was curious about the X99 mosfet block as well, specifically whether it would fit my Rampage IV BLack Edition or not. It has mostly the same screw lineup and i'd really rather not buy a whole southbridge block as well since EK decided to be greedy and only sell the RIVBE mosfet as a combo with the rest of the mobo block for $139 while mosfet blocks by themself are typically $50. (the X99 one is $47) so i wish i knew if that or another asus one would fit the RIVBE.


I love my monoblock will be putting some pictures up tommorrow of what it all looks like now!! I know too late for you but does make the tube runs so much neater and easier!!


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Oh believe me i'm regretting not getting an SMA8 now rather than a 900D. If i knew i'd be waiting a few weeks for my next check to buy fittings and tubing i would've just gone with the SMA8. But in reality, i wouldn't have been able to afford some of the last few items i'm getting if i had gone with the SMA8 (RAM, bitspower fittings, acrylic tubing, fans, a 240gb or 480gb SSD, custom sleeved white psu cables, an nvidia claw logo sli bridge etc..)


Have patience (you know it's a virtue!) we can always wait a little longer for the things we want...







--


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Its getting ever closer

The Cautious One


----------



## VSG

Looking forward to more


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looking forward to more


I need to Get Paid VSG

TCO


----------



## NvNw

@akira749 do you have any review or know of anyone that have use or tested the new (for some time) EK-CoolStream WE waterblocks?

I'm looking to change my current loop and i'm thinking of using two 540 to cool two 780, an 4790k and the mosfet of a ASUS M7G but i want to look some reviews of them.

Thanks!


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I love my monoblock will be putting some pictures up tommorrow of what it all looks like now!! I know too late for you but does make the tube runs so much neater and easier!!


i already have a supremacy evo cpu block so a monoblock would be a waste for me. plus it looks horrible compared to seperate cpu, mosfet, etc.. block in my opinion.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> i already have a supremacy evo cpu block so a monoblock would be a waste for me. plus it looks horrible compared to seperate cpu, mosfet, etc.. block in my opinion.


This is gratifying to read









Great minds think alike my friends


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Do you have another angled adapter available? If you have one then you could put it on the radiator port.


The answer came while I was sleeping, Just turned the Pump/res the other way. Not like anybody is gonna see it anyway.

Next question, and thank you all for you patience with a noob.



How Important is it to get rid of this air bubble? I Have turned the case in every direction except for upside down. Turning the pump on and off again. But I just can't seem to shake this air bubble.


----------



## Wirerat

So in planning my loop,

Could i just add in a T at a low spot and and cap the tube off the T and tuck it out of sight until needed to drain? I would rather not use a valve if it can be avoided.

Sorry for such a newb question i just didnt see the need for an entire thread.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> @akira749 do you have any review or know of anyone that have use or tested the new (for some time) EK-CoolStream WE waterblocks?
> 
> I'm looking to change my current loop and i'm thinking of using two 540 to cool two 780, an 4790k and the mosfet of a ASUS M7G but i want to look some reviews of them.
> 
> Thanks!


Sorry I have no reviews that I can remember right now. Maybe some users in the club here will be able to answer you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> i already have a supremacy evo cpu block so a monoblock would be a waste for me. plus it looks horrible compared to seperate cpu, mosfet, etc.. block in my opinion.
> 
> 
> 
> This is gratifying to read
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great minds think alike my friends
Click to expand...

Agreed!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> The answer came while I was sleeping, Just turned the Pump/res the other way. Not like anybody is gonna see it anyway.
> 
> Next question, and thank you all for you patience with a noob.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How Important is it to get rid of this air bubble? I Have turned the case in every direction except for upside down. Turning the pump on and off again. But I just can't seem to shake this air bubble.


Don't worry about this little bubble. Over time it will find is way out









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> So in planning my loop,
> 
> Could i just add in a T at a low spot and and cap the tube off the T and tuck it out of sight until needed to drain? I would rather not use a valve if it can be avoided.
> 
> Sorry for such a newb question i just didnt see the need for an entire thread.


I never used a T-Line but I don't see why it wouldn't work.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Don't worry about this little bubble. Over time it will find is way out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never used a T-Line but I don't see why it wouldn't work.


so is it already very easy to drain without a T and a dedicated drain? If its simple anyway i will just skip it.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Don't worry about this little bubble. Over time it will find is way out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never used a T-Line but I don't see why it wouldn't work.
> 
> 
> 
> so is it already very easy to drain without a T and a dedicated drain? If its simple anyway i will just skip it.
Click to expand...

Depends on the set-up, but I wish I had put a "T" in my last build, and I most certainly will be in my next build.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> so is it already very easy to drain without a T and a dedicated drain? If its simple anyway i will just skip it.


No I suggest you include a draining solution of some sort. Personaly I always use a drain valve.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No I suggest you include a draining solution of some sort. Personaly I always use a drain valve.


i was thinking a T fitting in front of the pump with a tube and drain/fill fitting tucked away would do the trick without a valve.

Thanks for the info.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> i was thinking a T fitting in front of the pump with a tube and drain/fill fitting tucked away would do the trick without a valve.
> 
> Thanks for the info.


Sure it will work. I did the same with a T fitting right after the pump. Though I did use a valve, I don't see why it wouldn't work without valve.


----------



## snef

i just received one box From EK with a lot of water cooling gear
but DHL lost the box with the EK-Vulture,
hope they will find it soon

anyway some photos

















More picture tomorow


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> i just received one box From EK with a lot of water cooling gear
> but DHL lost the box with the EK-Vulture,
> hope they will find it soon
> 
> anyway some photos
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More picture tomorow


New build?


----------



## Kimir

Those shiny adapter, nice







. My black ones were not that great (different batch, not all the same color), and one 90° that leaks.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> i just received one box From EK with a lot of water cooling gear
> *but DHL lost the box with the EK-Vulture,*
> hope they will find it soon


Seriously?


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Seriously?










. Yes.


----------



## Ceadderman

Boy, that sux. Hope they find it in short order.









~Ceadder


----------



## BradleyW

My EK blocks are all still going strong.


----------



## Wirerat

Well I decided to add a coolstream XTC 140mm to the l360 kit.

I found this review showing the l360 kit cooling a 3930k plus gtx titan with ease.

My 4790k plus gtx 970 is not even close to the power draw/heat output of the system in that review. I dont see cpu temps in that review though.

I will have more than 240mm per block. I hope that allows decent overhead.

My only concern now is for the ek 2.2 dcp. Most of what im reading says its enough for 2 blocks and 2 rads.


----------



## Reaper28

I just got my EK D5 with the X-Top looks like a good pump, just waiting for EK to release the blocks for the 970 FTW's


----------



## snef

Good news,
DHL call me this morning and she told me they found the package and its in transit to my area
i will believe her when if i sign for reception and the box is in good shape


----------



## Ceadderman

What is that block for? Looks like CPU Mosfet but that low point at its base cornfoozes me.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

The Asus Impact monoblock? It's a motherboard and CPU block combo unit.


----------



## inedenimadam

I really like getting mail from PPCS

cause it is always filled with EK stuff


----------



## Ceadderman

Thanks VSG.

@inedenimam... And a fair bit of Monsoon as well.









~Ceadder


----------



## JohnITRW

gonna post up some more pics soon, but here is some of my stuff


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thanks VSG.
> 
> @inedenimam... And a fair bit of Monsoon as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah, I thought I would give them a go. I bought the "Chain Gun" compressions. I probably will not be using them for long. WAAAAAAAAY to big. They hang over the side of the EVO block, and even make their way over the EK badge. More incentive to learn to bend acrylic. I ended up throwing a couple extensions on for time being. I will say this though...have been loop testing without a single hint of a leak, so they are effective.



I bet I got the coolest motherboard tray in the neighborhood! Seriously though UPS should really hurry up with that board.


----------



## Rahldrac

Will a dcp 4.0 be strong enough for 3*240+360 rads, a horizontal res, GPU and dual GPU?


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Will a dcp 4.0 be strong enough for 3*240+360 rads, a horizontal res, GPU and dual GPU?


I would say yes, because I have the following single-loop:

- EK-KIT H3O 240 HFX
- 2x EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (480)
- 2x EK-FC780 GTX WF3 - Acetal+Nickel
- EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel 3-Slot


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey fellas, just a warning... do NOT ship your gear via USPS. Those bozos lost a package that I shipped and was returned as undeliverable. I shipped that freaking package 4 months ago have filed for the claim was denied and refiled for appeal and was AGAIN denied. $50 worth of fittings disappear and their "insurance" ain't for crap!

It's just not worth shipping through them anymore. When they were part of the Government, you could get somewhere. Now they could care less.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Have patience (you know it's a virtue!) we can always wait a little longer for the things we want...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --


Well, frozencpu was nice enough to refund me on my 900D even though i've had it for a week or two, gonna try for a caselabs with the store credit they're gonna give me. I should get either $400 or $423 depending on whether they refund the shipping or not, and the SMH10 or SMA8 with the customizations i want is about $569 ($600 if i go gunmetal, ugh...) vs $400 for the custom SKU 900D i ordered. (doesn't come with radiator btw like the title says







kinda sucks)

Figured i'd get the XXL window (i'm a parts showoff, shoot me lol) Ventilated top (regular not the 39/120mm raised, only have a 35mm 480 rad for top) ventilated on the bottom chassis section, and possibly ventilated on the front flex bay covers too. Some of the options are kind of confusing though on the SMA8, wish it was like the SMH10 where it shows pictures of each option
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey fellas, just a warning... do NOT ship your gear via USPS. Those bozos lost a package that I shipped and was returned as undeliverable. I shipped that freaking package 4 months ago have filed for the claim was denied and refiled for appeal and was AGAIN denied. $50 worth of fittings disappear and their "insurance" ain't for crap!
> 
> It's just not worth shipping through them anymore. When they were part of the Government, you could get somewhere. Now they could care less.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


wow.....just wow. that is utter bullcrap. i feel you to some degree, i had USPS lose my Gelid GC extreme thermal paste i ordered from amazon for 11 days and it turns out that some moron scanned it wrong so it was sent all the way from virginia back to it's origin point in los angelos and sat there for half a week then shipped out again all the way to michigan, so i ordered it on the 7th with an expected delivery of the 10th and i didn't get it till the 22nd -__- But 4 months.....damn.


----------



## King4x4

Good hearing you are getting your case from DHL snef. They once lost gear from EK costing over $2000... luckily they found it after a week rotting in some forgotten place in a remote area and shipped it back. At least it didn't get destroyed and was in good shape.

Okay... Just got back to finishing my Mini-Hydra build and I am extremly pleased to say that EK-Vardar Fans are going to be a big hit with my clients.... Them fans running on 2200rpm have a sound signature out of this world.... Very soothing. Hell the Swiftech H220 pump got a higher noise. Pics!




These are for another build... coming soonish!


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> The answer came while I was sleeping, Just turned the Pump/res the other way. Not like anybody is gonna see it anyway.
> 
> Next question, and thank you all for you patience with a noob.
> 
> 
> 
> How Important is it to get rid of this air bubble? I Have turned the case in every direction except for upside down. Turning the pump on and off again. But I just can't seem to shake this air bubble.


Just let the loop run for a while, I had a massive bouble before but after about 2 days (6-7 hours gaming per day) it was gone.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> This is gratifying to read
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great minds think alike my friends


haha, i guess so. i'm just not a big fan of covering up a good looking motherboard more than necessary. Like if i was going to use a mosfet block on my Rampage IV Black, you typically have to remove not only that small black heatsink over the VRM but the entire big black one on the left that says "RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION" on it since they're connected by a heatpipe. My plan is to cut the heatpipe to keep from taking that portion off. I'm not opposed to adding a mosfet/VRM block and some RAM blocks of course, although i love the dominator platinum look, which is why i'm using them in my DISPARITY build log. I just think that using seperate cpu block, mosfet, ram etc.. looks infinitely better than the bulky monoblock unless you're using a not so good looking mobo.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Good hearing you are getting your case from DHL snef. They once lost gear from EK costing over $2000... luckily they found it after a week rotting in some forgotten place in a remote area and shipped it back. At least it didn't get destroyed and was in good shape.
> 
> Okay... Just got back to finishing my Mini-Hydra build and I am extremly pleased to say that EK-Vardar Fans are going to be a big hit with my clients.... Them fans running on 2200rpm have a sound signature out of this world.... Very soothing. Hell the Swiftech H220 pump got a higher noise. Pics!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are for another build... coming soonish!


very nice, i haven't really checked out the vardar's much yet. i was kind of dead set on getting Aerocool Dead Silence fans in white LED, but if the vardar's are that quiet at 2200 and customized for rads.... i just wish they'd hurry and make some white LED vardar's, the 140's would be welcome for the bottom of the SMA8 i'm getting as well. I've considered noctua black industrial for the bottom but the price on those things is unreal @ 30+ per fan.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Well, frozencpu was nice enough to refund me on my 900D even though i've had it for a week or two, gonna try for a caselabs with the store credit they're gonna give me. I should get either $400 or $423 depending on whether they refund the shipping or not, and the SMH10 or SMA8 with the customizations i want is about $569 ($600 if i go gunmetal, ugh...) vs $400 for the custom SKU 900D i ordered. (doesn't come with radiator btw like the title says
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kinda sucks)
> 
> Figured i'd get the XXL window (i'm a parts showoff, shoot me lol) Ventilated top (regular not the 39/120mm raised, only have a 35mm 480 rad for top) ventilated on the bottom chassis section, and possibly ventilated on the front flex bay covers too. Some of the options are kind of confusing though on the SMA8, wish it was like the SMH10 where it shows pictures of each option


Store credit? Could you not have gotten your cash back and ordered from the CaseLabs web-site? You know, the prices are better on the CaseLabs site...

Anyway, great decision on dumping the 900D and going to CaseLabs!


----------



## bigporl

Nearly there just a few more things to get.


----------



## inedenimadam

Vardars are the beez neez

Camera skillz be lackin'


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Vardars are the beez neez
> 
> Camera skillz be lackin'


What model did you get?


----------



## Kimir

So, how good are those vardar, I see plenty of pictures but no feedback yet.


----------



## snef

GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD NEWS

i have the case and its in perfect shape

and i have the FIRST one , have a little plate with 01/50

ok ok 00/50 exist but this one stay at EK Office in Slovenia


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> So, how good are those vardar, I see plenty of pictures but no feedback yet.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Vardars are the beez neez
> 
> Camera skillz be lackin'
Click to expand...

What model did you get?

18650

I have only table topped the fans so far.


----------



## SteezyTN

Hey all, quick question... My 2 way SLI 6GB 780's are really acting weird. I have the stock bios (unmodded/flashed), and performance is terrible. I have them overclocked to 1189mhz at 1.2v and I cannot even keep a steady 60FPS in TitanFall with max settings. Even with all mex settings and MSAA to off. I'm playing at 1440p. Performance just seems terrible. It seems like the voltage is constantly dropping to idle voltage and pops back up.

EDIT*** sorry, thought I was in the 780 owners club. My bad.


----------



## Wirerat

Nothing lost on the truck here. When i order usps priority shipping from performance pc it arrives in two days flat.


Unfortunately im still waiting for 4 fittings and a coolstream XTC 140mm to complete my loop. I have extra tubing coming Monday but I think i have enough already.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Not sure if the leds in above photo will make into the build or not. The lighting layout and color is still up in the air but i have 50 leds to do something with.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Nothing lost on the truck here. When i order usps priority shipping from performance pc it arrives in two days flat.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately im still waiting for 4 fittings and a coolstream XTC 140mm to complete my loop. I have extra tubing coming Monday but I think i have enough already.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if the leds in above photo will make into the build or not. The lighting layout and color is still up in the air but *i have 50 leds to do something with.*


That's a whole lot of LEDs!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> That's a whole lot of LEDs!


well pre wired i got 10 blue, 10 red, 10 white, 10 green and 10 yellow for like $9 lol. Not using them all of course.


----------



## JohnITRW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> well pre wired i got 10 blue, 10 red, 10 white, 10 green and 10 yellow for like $9 lol. Not using them all of course.


feel free to mail me some! lol, but actually whered you get them


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnITRW*
> 
> feel free to mail me some! lol, but actually whered you get them


AMAZON










They are 5mm which is perfect for gpu block. I took my dremel to a few bulbs to fit them in the cpu block lol. The bulbs are solid acrylic.


----------



## Vintage

Looking forward to seeing the EK Vulture build, Snef!

This case looks really nice


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> AMAZON
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are 5mm which is perfect for gpu block. I took my dremel to a few bulbs to fit them in the cpu block lol. The bulbs are solid acrylic.


what size of dremel bit do u use or drill bit size? I was thinking of doing the same for my gpu's waterblocks... Ek's..


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> what size of dremel bit do u use or drill bit size? I was thinking of doing the same for my gpu's waterblocks... Ek's..


i used the sanding wheel.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## JohnITRW

What are you guys using to polish the blocks, looks so beautiful


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnITRW*
> 
> What are you guys using to polish the blocks, looks so beautiful


the ek blocks are polished out of the box


----------



## JohnITRW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its getting ever closer
> 
> The Cautious One


was referencing this


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnITRW*
> 
> What are you guys using to polish the blocks, looks so beautiful


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> the ek blocks are polished out of the box


Think he's asking about polishing acrylic like tco showed here http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/8490#post_23498592

It's Meguiars PlastX and patience and time.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's Meguiars PlastX


and a whole lot of sand paper.


----------



## JohnITRW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Think he's asking about polishing acrylic like tco showed here http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/8490#post_23498592
> 
> It's Meguiars PlastX and patience and time.


Nailed it! thanks


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> and a whole lot of sand paper.


You are the polishing guru!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Think he's asking about polishing acrylic like tco showed here http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/8490#post_23498592
> 
> It's Meguiars PlastX and patience and time.


oh i see. Looks nice


----------



## aka13

Cant you use a vice + a vertical drill mount + sand paper mount (the 90 degrees one) to do it in 1-2 minutes, and afterwards polish the surface? The only downside I see is that you have to be really careful with positioning of the block in the vice.


----------



## ghostwich

Just a follow up on my concerns with the standoffs on the 980 waterblock (reference EK-FC980 in acrylic/copper) and the backplate (EK-FC980 backplate) -

I tightened the standoffs on the waterblock, measured the cutouts and carveouts on the backplate, and started assembly again. When I got to the backplate, I did visually see that there was a tiny bit of bowing - I don't have calipers so accuracy is questionable but there is about a 0.5mm difference between the gap in the PCB and the backplate itself. At the far end of the card, by the power connectors, the gap is about 2mm, and in the center of the card (approximately where the GPU sits) it's about 2.5mm. That's why it does appear that the thermal pad suggested to touch the backside of the GPU die seems to not touch at all.

I've been peering in between the PCB and the backplate and I can see possibly four tiny points of contact, possibly resistors on the backside of the GPU.

I decided to proceed and will keep everything as is. I think that the backplate definitely touches the backside of the VRM, but does very little if anything to the backside of the GPU.

Also the "gold" doesn't match any other gold I have, but, oh well, so be it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> and a whole lot of sand paper.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnITRW*
> 
> Nailed it! thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> oh i see. Looks nice


Like Lowfat said. Tons of Sandpaper and Time. I used a couple different types of Polish for Plastix and Mothers Rubbing Compound and Turtle wax Polishing Compound. Plastix is the Finest of the Fine.

The Cautious One

Lowfat I think Recommends 400, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 and I Just switched out 800 Grit for 600 (Pepboys Auto store isn't far from my house)


----------



## lowfat

I suggest using every grit available to you between 400 and 3000. The better your sanding, the better the finished product.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Like Lowfat said. Tons of Sandpaper and Time. I used a couple different types of Polish for Plastix and Mothers Rubbing Compound and Turtle wax Polishing Compound. Plastix is the Finest of the Fine.
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> Lowfat I think Recommends 400, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 and I Just switched out 800 Grit for 600 (Pepboys Auto store isn't far from my house)


when its that clear how does it affect led lights? Does it get brighter or not hold light as well?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> when its that clear how does it affect led lights? Does it get brighter or not hold light as well?


It amplifies the Light to my knowledge due to the acrylic Not be able to "Absorb" it. Just reflects and bounces everywhere in the Block. Similar to a mirror effect.

The Cautious ONe


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Nothing lost on the truck here. When i order usps priority shipping from performance pc it arrives in two days flat.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately im still waiting for 4 fittings and a coolstream XTC 140mm to complete my loop. I have extra tubing coming Monday but I think i have enough already.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if the leds in above photo will make into the build or not. The lighting layout and color is still up in the air but i have 50 leds to do something with.


Thanks for the pics, does the red led's look pinkish in real life as they are on camera?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Thanks for the pics, does the red led's look pinkish in real life as they are on camera?


Go Check out @lowfat Polishing Thread.

The Cautious One


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Thanks for the pics, does the red led's look pinkish in real life as they are on camera?


the camera. In person they are dark red.


----------



## snef

look at this beauty,


----------



## Kimir

Looking good indeed.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> look at this beauty,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


As much as I would like to have that in my hands, its probably better suited in yours.


----------



## Ceadderman

EK needs to make MOAR than 50 imho. I seriously doubt that we'll see them across the Pond much and it's not for lack of want. I would like to have THREE of them for my family systems and HTPC setup. Not many(if any) ITX cases offer a 360 mount.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

As far as I know these 50 are not going to be sold at all. But posts like these which encourage a larger retail production run may change things around.


----------



## Vintage

That stinks that they are only making 50. Looks like a really nice ITX offering.

Guess I'll get the Caselabs "X2" for sure then.


----------



## WiSK

Of course they will make more than 50. Those first few cases sent to famous case modders like Snef and BNeg are just prototypes. It gives time for EK to judge the market and feedback from professional/enthusiasts to identify issues with the case before going into full scale production.


----------



## Rahldrac

How bad is actually red coolant? I always read that red coolant is the worst that they will gunk up your blocks making them unusable and wreck performance?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> look at this beauty,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Here's my response Snef


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Here's my response Snef
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


ok look at *THESE* beauty


----------



## Malik




----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The Ever Elusive Malik

THe Cautious One


----------



## King4x4

Neeeeeeeeeeeeed one of those Vulture cases... Will litrelly sell my TH10... Don't need that space anymore once I dropped Eyefinity.


----------



## snef

wow nice pics Malik


----------



## JohnITRW

i dont think im diggin that case to be honest, but my mind isnt set.


----------



## Ragsters

Is there really going to be only 50 Vulture cases made or are these going to be for sponsers only then retail later?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Is there really going to be only 50 Vulture cases made or are these going to be for sponsers only then retail later?


There are 8 being used for builds right now by "elite" builders. The remaining 42 will be available through a lottery type drawing.


----------



## Wirerat

2 hours into the leak testing......


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I leak tested/cleaned both rads with hot water earlier for a few hours. Im gonna wait about 2 more hours and call it good and drain it so i can build it.

I didnt install a T after all. I simply opened a 2nd port on the res and ran a long tube with a plug. So simple and it makes filling and draining a snap.

The plug im using was in one of the rads.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> There are 8 being used for builds right now by "elite" builders. The remaining 42 will be available through a lottery type drawing.


Well that sucks! X2 it is then I guess.


----------



## Vintage

^^^^^^^^^^^

Sad to hear :/


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Store credit? Could you not have gotten your cash back and ordered from the CaseLabs web-site? You know, the prices are better on the CaseLabs site...
> 
> Anyway, great decision on dumping the 900D and going to CaseLabs!


Nope, unfortunately they only offered me a replacement 900D or store credit. Most likely due to me having it for a week and a half-ish since i bought it, but they did promise me a full refund initially the day it arrived due to false advertising since the page said it came with two of the end of life EK XT480 rads for $400 vs the standard 900D costing only $350 After i pointed out the false logic of their defense for charging me $400 for a case with nothing extra than the $350 version (they claimed it was a "labor charge" and then i pointed out that i opted out of the extra $50 labor charge by picking "i will assemble parts myself" that would've brought the price to $450 anyway, so Jeff at FCPU was at least nice enough to offer me a partial refund which i used to negotiate an XSPC EX480 rad that he gave me in return for not calling better business bureau and for the invonvenience etc..) but i figured i would keep the case at that point and time, although i did call in asking for the refund last week after having it for around 5-6 days and apparently someone forgot to start the return process, but overall it probably has something to do with their return policy which i believe is stricter on cases and water cooling parts, only offering short time periods for returns and only offering replacement/store credit as mentioned. Although i must admit that's leagues better than performance-pcs.com's policy of requiring a 15-20% restocking fee for EVERY SINGLE return even if it's blatantly a defective product that THEY caused to fail. (i've seen horror stories from ppcs, believe me) Their lower prices make up for it on things like fittings/tubing though since you're less likely to need to return those; they stick it to you on shipping though so meh....

And thanks, i'm starting to become more and more content with my decision to go Caselabs; even though i'm the most impatient person on the planet when it comes to things i want lol. I went so far as to skip on the Gunmetal just because it raised the handling time from 20-25 business days to 25-30 business days









OH!, and just for the record, since i'm pretty sure this is as big a surprise to you guys as it is to me; i e-mailed the guys at Caselabs asking some questions about differences between the SMA8, SMH10, and SM8 with pedestal and i was notified that they just recently stopped manufacturing the SMH10 completely!!! So anyone with plans for SSI-CEB or HPTX rigs with a caselabs setup might want to check out ebay as there's two guys selling SMH10's, one with custom red interior powder coat and the other with a bunch of flexbay add-ons for $719 and $799 respectively. Kinda expensive but unless CL is going to offer SSI-CEB/HPTX on the SMA8 as an option it's probably a good idea.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Hey all, quick question... My 2 way SLI 6GB 780's are really acting weird. I have the stock bios (unmodded/flashed), and performance is terrible. I have them overclocked to 1189mhz at 1.2v and I cannot even keep a steady 60FPS in TitanFall with max settings. Even with all mex settings and MSAA to off. I'm playing at 1440p. Performance just seems terrible. It seems like the voltage is constantly dropping to idle voltage and pops back up.
> 
> EDIT*** sorry, thought I was in the 780 owners club. My bad.


Eh, don't worry about it, we're all one bit family at OCN here









Honestly, it sounds like your card is temp throttling or something similar. Have you tried updating drivers, or have you recently updated before the problem started? Either updating to the newest or rolling back to an old but stable one sounds like a sound plan to me (no that wasn't a cheesy pun attempt) Otherwise, i've honestly never heard of that kind of issue on 780/780 ti/titans other than when they're using the non-stock overvolted BIOS's and whatnot. Although i've seen GTX970's do the same thing with stock bios when in SLI due to temperature throttling, the issue goes away when water cooled though, so you might want to look into a small loop for your graphics cards with EK-FC 780 blocks or if you're on a tight budget you could try some NZXT H10 AIO liquid cooler's with a cheap aluminum rad and buy like 2 feet of some masterkleer tubing and some cheap barb fittings/clamps (check ebay, search 240mm radiator and you'll find some aluminum 240's for like $20-25 that are decent enough or you could go on performance-pcs.com and look up the hardware labs black ice Pro III 360mm which is only $44, tubing will only run you about $2-3 for 2 feet, and fittings maybe $10. So total cost would be around $55-60 minus whatever waterblock you go with, EK = around $120 new, not sure about the NZXT H10 but they're decently cheap even for two.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Eh, don't worry about it, we're all one bit family at OCN here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, it sounds like your card is temp throttling or something similar. Have you tried updating drivers, or have you recently updated before the problem started? Either updating to the newest or rolling back to an old but stable one sounds like a sound plan to me (no that wasn't a cheesy pun attempt) Otherwise, i've honestly never heard of that kind of issue on 780/780 ti/titans other than when they're using the non-stock overvolted BIOS's and whatnot. Although i've seen GTX970's do the same thing with stock bios when in SLI due to temperature throttling, the issue goes away when water cooled though, so you might want to look into a small loop for your graphics cards with EK-FC 780 blocks or if you're on a tight budget you could try some NZXT H10 AIO liquid cooler's with a cheap aluminum rad and buy like 2 feet of some masterkleer tubing and some cheap barb fittings/clamps (check ebay, search 240mm radiator and you'll find some aluminum 240's for like $20-25 that are decent enough or you could go on performance-pcs.com and look up the hardware labs black ice Pro III 360mm which is only $44, tubing will only run you about $2-3 for 2 feet, and fittings maybe $10. So total cost would be around $55-60 minus whatever waterblock you go with, EK = around $120 new, not sure about the NZXT H10 but they're decently cheap even for two.


Cards are already watercooled. See my SIG... Max temp is no more than 50c


----------



## Wirerat

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Still need to sleeve some case wiring and work on the led setup.

My 970 is at 46c running valley.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Malik, you will never stop amazed me with your pictures skills! Just beautiful!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> OH!, and just for the record, since i'm pretty sure this is as big a surprise to you guys as it is to me; i e-mailed the guys at Caselabs asking some questions about differences between the SMA8, SMH10, and SM8 with pedestal and i was notified that they just recently stopped manufacturing the SMH10 completely!!! So anyone with plans for SSI-CEB or HPTX rigs with a caselabs setup might want to check out ebay as there's two guys selling SMH10's, one with custom red interior powder coat and the other with a bunch of flexbay add-ons for $719 and $799 respectively. Kinda expensive but unless CL is going to offer SSI-CEB/HPTX on the SMA8 as an option it's probably a good idea.


The SMA8 has an option for the SSI-CEB form-factor but not HPTX

719$ and 799$ damn!!!!!!!!

I will decommission my reversed layout black SMH10 really soon! If I happen to sell it it would be for way less than that!!!! I can't imagine adding an hefty shipping fee over a 800$ invoice for a used SMH10!!!! It didn't even cost that the first time!!!


----------



## marshymellows

Not sure if this is the place to ask this question but does frosted acrylic "absorb" light?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Not sure if this is the place to ask this question but does frosted acrylic "absorb" light?


Just Talked about this on Pg 428

The Cautious One


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> How bad is actually red coolant? I always read that red coolant is the worst that they will gunk up your blocks making them unusable and wreck performance?


That's old info, dyed coolants are all equal pretty much as far as gunking up. And by that i mean as long as you buy a good brand of coolant (go with mayhem's pastel, it's guaranteed not to gunk up at all) you won't have any gunking in your blocks from it.

The whole rumors about dyed coolant started because people were getting gunk in their loop and couldn't figure out what was causing it. It turns out that 95% of the time it was plasticizer inside of their tubing leeching into the fluid and pluggingn up loops. And because the dye from the coolant would dye the normally white plasticizer particles red/white/yellow etc.. people automatically assumed it was the dyes that caused this strange gunk to appear in the first place.

So if your planning a loop with soft pvc tubing just get some quality non plasticizer stuff, Primoflex Advanced LRT is some of the better stuff, but also about $2.50 a foot, i reccomend trying Masterkleer tubing, it's less than $1 a foot and some tests show it having less clouding and plasticizing than the $2.50 a foot primoflex. So personally i'd say if your new to water cooling check out Masterkleer 3/8" x 5/8" clear tubing and use some Mayhem's Pastel pre-colored coolant in it if you want red color or any other color. Now dyes can and will stain things though, like your tubing and stuff, so know that unless you replace your colored coolant every few months or so you would have to change tubing if you wanted to go from Green dye to Red dye or from Black dye to clear water etc.. since your tubing would be stained; it could also stain the inside of your water blocks possibly, but as long as you change the fluid once a year you should be fine with that.

For reference, i'm using a small amount of Masterkleer 3/8" x 5/8" clear tubing for the hidden parts of my loop (only $9.95 for like 10 feet) along with mayhem's pastel ice white dyed coolant in the new build i'm making. Although i am using Bitspower solid/rigid acrylic tubing for most of my loop. That's another option you could consider, getting some acrylic or PETG tubing and rigid fittings. It would cost more due to having to either bend the tubing using special beinding/heating kits, or (much easier) just buy 45 degree and 90 degree fittings and use straight pieces of the rigid tubing. I'm using 10/12mm bitspower crystal link tubing, ($4 for ~40 inches) and bitspower enhanced multi-link fittings ($10-14 for each 45 degree or 90 degree fitting) but you can find cheaper fittings.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> AMAZON
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are 5mm which is perfect for gpu block. I took my dremel to a few bulbs to fit them in the cpu block lol. The bulbs are solid acrylic.


Are they selling pre wired? Meaning for 4 pin r molex. Or do you need to buy molex


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Are they selling pre wired? Meaning for 4 pin r molex. Or do you need to buy molex


you have to build the harness. They look like this :


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






No molex but its simply to build up a harness with speaker wire then sleeve it. I used crimp splices and an old fan controller so i can adjust brightness.

Im going add the red leds to the blocks later this week.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> look at this beauty,










.......







.....


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Cards are already watercooled. See my SIG... Max temp is no more than 50c


Oh, my bad. didn't think to check your sig. Hmm, that's odd then. I've never seen modern high end cards throttle while under 50c temps. I'm honestly stumped, you should try calling nvidia or the reseller of your card (i.e. gigabyte, msi etc..) they might be able to help. Don't mention that you waterblocked them though, that typically voids warranties unless they are EVGA cards; you can always put the stock cooler back on it if you have to RMA and they "usually" won't know that you took the card apart at all.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Oh, my bad. didn't think to check your sig. Hmm, that's odd then. I've never seen modern high end cards throttle while under 50c temps. I'm honestly stumped, you should try calling nvidia or the reseller of your card (i.e. gigabyte, msi etc..) they might be able to help. Don't mention that you waterblocked them though, that typically voids warranties unless they are EVGA cards; you can always put the stock cooler back on it if you have to RMA and they "usually" won't know that you took the card apart at all.


Lol, cards are EVGA. That's why I went EVGA.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Malik, you will never stop amazed me with your pictures skills! Just beautiful!!
> The SMA8 has an option for the SSI-CEB form-factor but not HPTX
> 
> 719$ and 799$ damn!!!!!!!!
> 
> I will decommission my reversed layout black SMH10 really soon! If I happen to sell it it would be for way less than that!!!! I can't imagine adding an hefty shipping fee over a 800$ invoice for a used SMH10!!!! It didn't even cost that the first time!!!


Indeed, it is a bit high, although they do have a best offer option. And actually it turns out that only the $799 one is an SMH10, there's also a Black TH10A with red powder coat inside for $719 or best offer, and a Blue TH10A with white powder coat inside for $650.

The SMH10 one for $799 or best offer has two 480mm rad mounts (one flexbay and one side moount) the 120mm raised top for putting like monsta rads in, caster kit, molex switch installed, etc.. so it does have decent accesories; but yeah $799 is definitely high since i can get a brand new SMA8 with those options for just about the same price ($619 for the case, and ~$100-150 for the accessories)

Here's a link that shows all three of them (blue/white TH10A, red/black TH10A, and all black SMH10)

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xcaselabs&_nkw=caselabs&_sacat=0


----------



## dodgethis

I just ordered some items from EK via the post with no tracking option but somehow, they gave me a tracking number.

I have been checking for the past few days but for those who have used this option before, how long did it take between the Slovakian post entering the shipment into the system and the next update?


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dodgethis*
> 
> I just ordered some items from EK via the post with no tracking option but somehow, they gave me a tracking number.
> 
> I have been checking for the past few days but for those who have used this option before, how long did it take between the Slovakian post entering the shipment into the system and the next update?


I wouldn't count on it, the two times i ordered from EK directly even via priority with tracking etc.. i had not so great tracking.

The first time it took them till the package was already in michigan by the time Slovenia registered the customs process for leaving the country showing it just entering the shipment out of the country.

The 2nd time it arrived at my door unnanounced, checked the tracking an hour later and it still said "shipping label printed: awaiting shipment from origin facility" so in other words, it didn't even register that it left EK's warehouse lol.

Honestly i'd reccomend that you order from a local reseller if you want to get EK goods. For example, if you live in the USA try frozencpu or performance-pcs, they get the goods from EK ahead of time to stock their warehouse, and then ship to you straight from Florida which is MUCH faster than getting it straight from Slovenia if you live anywhere in north america; and not just CA, USA, MX, i mean like guatemala, belize etc.. as well. But if you live in the UK/EU it might be faster and slightly cheaper than importing from across the pond, although i'd still try checking places like overclock.co.uk and whatnot.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Lol, cards are EVGA. That's why I went EVGA.


Good idea, i've heard nothing but good from EVGA customer service stories. My experience (albeit limited) with them was good as well. Honestly i'm starting to wish i had ordered EVGA GTX970's instead of the two Gigabyte G1 editions i got since gigabyte is refusing to refund customers of 970's even though they're guilty of blatant false advertising by stating the GTX970 has 4gb GDDR5 VRAM, 64 ROP units, and 2mb L2 cache even though it only has 3.5gb GDDR5 with 512mb of GDDR1 speed VRAM added on, only 56 ROP units, and only 1.75mb of L2 cache. Now if i had been an EVGA customer that called in with 970's that were falsely advertised; even though EVGA is the preferred partner of Nvidia and would be the one you'd think would defend Nvidia's bullcrap more than anyone. They would've probably offered me full refunds, or at the very least refer me to their step-up program, allowing me to trade in my SLI 970's for two EVGA GTX980's; and probably at a discount due to the incorrect specs on their boxes. Now i'm stuck with two 3.5gb 256bit 1,600 cuda core cards that are essentially nothing more than super super-overclocked versions of a 4gb GTX770 due to the gimped gpu specs, as well as stuck with two EK-FC 970 WF3 Nickel/Plexi waterblocks for said cards that frozencpu probably wouldn't refund anyway... thanks Nvidia/gigabyte, i love how you rewarded my decade of loyal customer purchases with micro-stuttering, low res limited, non-refundable cards and a $1000 Geforce enema...


----------



## Ceadderman

I got a pretty sweet deal on LED bulbs via eBay a couple years back. I got Red prewired bulbs. All I had to do was wire them up with Moles pins and housing and everything was Good to Go. My Supreme top is Red too, so it doesn't show as pink either. I paid less than ~$6 for a pack of 20.









~Ceadder


----------



## dodgethis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> I wouldn't count on it, the two times i ordered from EK directly even via priority with tracking etc.. i had not so great tracking.
> 
> The first time it took them till the package was already in michigan by the time Slovenia registered the customs process for leaving the country showing it just entering the shipment out of the country.
> 
> The 2nd time it arrived at my door unnanounced, checked the tracking an hour later and it still said "shipping label printed: awaiting shipment from origin facility" so in other words, it didn't even register that it left EK's warehouse lol.
> 
> Honestly i'd reccomend that you order from a local reseller if you want to get EK goods. For example, if you live in the USA try frozencpu or performance-pcs, they get the goods from EK ahead of time to stock their warehouse, and then ship to you straight from Florida which is MUCH faster than getting it straight from Slovenia if you live anywhere in north america; and not just CA, USA, MX, i mean like guatemala, belize etc.. as well. But if you live in the UK/EU it might be faster and slightly cheaper than importing from across the pond, although i'd still try checking places like overclock.co.uk and whatnot.


The savings I get from ordering EK directly, compared to the only place in Singapore, is massive. It's anyway from 25% to 50%. Also, the reseller won't restock for another few months.

Moreover, shipping to Singapore up to a certain weight is about EUR14 and increases exponentially after that. Shipping from FCPU or PPC starts at about USD45.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dodgethis*
> 
> The savings I get from ordering EK directly, compared to the only place in Singapore, is massive. It's anyway from 25% to 50%. Also, the reseller won't restock for another few months.
> 
> Moreover, shipping to Singapore up to a certain weight is about EUR14 and increases exponentially after that. Shipping from FCPU or PPC starts at about USD45.


Ahh...i forgot you said you were in singapore; my bad. I feel ya, when i was living in Kyoto it was murder trying to get products that weren't carried in asia shipped to me. Even a country that was "relatively" close like Russia, Australia, or even shipping from Hawaii cost a fortune practically.

Now that i'm in the US it's actually cheaper or at least equal price to order through local resellers like FCPU and stuff, once you convert the euros to $ or 円 it ended up being the same or slightly more to order from EK; although i seem to recall it being about the same even in Japan too though, i suppose it depends more on the Government and customs etc.. than on the region the country is in.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Ahh...i forgot you said you were in singapore; my bad. I feel ya, when i was living in Kyoto it was murder trying to get products that weren't carried in asia shipped to me. Even a country that was "relatively" close like Russia, Australia, or even shipping from Hawaii cost a fortune practically.
> 
> Now that i'm in the US it's actually cheaper or at least equal price to order through local resellers like FCPU and stuff, once you convert the euros to $ or 円 it ended up being the same or slightly more to order from EK; although i seem to recall it being about the same even in Japan too though, i suppose it depends more on the Government and customs etc.. than on the region the country is in.


It's quite difficult to get all that stuff in Oz and even if you are able to get it, then you have to order from a handful different shops.

Even with our crap AU$ atm, it was still cheaper for me to get my parts from FCPU. I had a short look at the EK-Online-Shop, but there were just too many parts simply not in stock, so I didn't really bother to calculate things, but it's usually quite expensive too.

Most things in Oz have pretty much an additional markup of ~60%, when compared to the US / UK / GE.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> It's quite difficult to get all that stuff in Oz and even if you are able to get it, then you have to order from a handful different shops.
> 
> Even with our crap AU$ atm, it was still cheaper for me to get my parts from FCPU. I had a short look at the EK-Online-Shop, but there were just to many parts simply not in stock, so I didn't really bother to calculate things, but it's usually quite expensive too.
> 
> Most things in Oz have pretty much an additional markup of ~60%, when compared to the US / UK / GE.


Ouch, 60%?


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Ouch, 60%?


Yeah, if you count in the differences in wages / cost of living etc., then you end-up with something like that.

But it's also quite annoying that certain things are just not available, not even for a premium.


----------



## Leyaena

Any word on the full-cover blocks for the 980 Classy's, yet?
Latest I heard was someone on the EVGA forums speculating they'd be ready by the 14th,
but I have no idea on how trustworthy that information is.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> Any word on the full-cover blocks for the 980 Classy's, yet?
> Latest I heard was someone on the EVGA forums speculating they'd be ready by the 14th,
> but I have no idea on how trustworthy that information is.


Could be a week away







, HYPED







. Look at "Six Pools" post.

https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks/photos/a.204208322966540.61821.182927101761329/805596589494374/?type=1&theater


----------



## VSG

So here's what all those EK cases around are about:


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So here's what all those EK cases around are about:


Saw that too. Sounds pretty sweet. Can any of the builders shine some light on if you have a set budget limit? Time to complete limit?

Good luck


----------



## VSG

It says they have from Feb 1 to Apr 30, and that's about it.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Saw that too. Sounds pretty sweet. Can any of the builders shine some light on if you have a set budget limit? Time to complete limit?
> 
> Good luck


Like geggeg said, the only "limit" we have is the timeframe of February 1st to April 30th. Other than that, each builder can do whatever he wants on the case.


----------



## emsj86

Is there any rumors of ek atx case?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is there any rumors of ek atx case?


We don't even know if we will put the Vulture on the market yet so it's a no for the ATX case.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We don't even know if we will put the Vulture on the market yet so it's a no for the ATX case.


So the Vulture going retail is still a possibility?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> So the Vulture going retail is still a possibility?


We sincerely don't know


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> So the Vulture going retail is still a possibility?


lol I am going to try my darn best to convince EK of the consumer interest and make it happen but in the end I am just another number like you. I imagine that survey in the end will end up deciding if this happens or not in some form or the other. The super thick aluminum in these prototypes isn't really viable on a large scale for retail I would imagine.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol I am going to try my darn best to convince EK of the consumer interest and make it happen but in the end I am just another number like you. I imagine that survey in the end will end up deciding if this happens or not in some form or the other. The super thick aluminum in these prototypes isn't really viable on a large scale for retail I would imagine.


The thick aluminum is possible but the price tag would reflect this.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We sincerely don't know


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol I am going to try my darn best to convince EK of the consumer interest and make it happen but in the end I am just another number like you. I imagine that survey in the end will end up deciding if this happens or not in some form or the other. The super thick aluminum in these prototypes isn't really viable on a large scale for retail I would imagine.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The thick aluminum is possible but the price tag would reflect this.


Thanks guys! Yeah, I don't expect a watercooling company like EKWB would mass market cases like these anytime soon but I just really, really want one.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Yea same here.. would love to have one of those... hmm. I would def do a build based on EK only... it would be awesome


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is there any rumors of ek atx case?


I'll start one now if you like.

Psst, I have a mate who is totally on the inside on this and he said at *least* one case is coming soon.


----------



## VSG

lol


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder


----------



## Feyris

Do I count for club if all I own is a EK GPU I/O bracket lol. probably not


----------



## Alex132

Do I count if I just own a pump-top







It's a really nice pump-top though









edit- oh wait I own a Supremacy CPU WB too


----------



## TONSCHUH

EK now @Umart


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Should be in february


Is there an update on the eta of the block?


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Is there an update on the eta of the block?


You'd think with the K|ngp|n coming out on the 19th it'd be out soon. Speaking of that, i wonder if the classy block will fit the K|ngp|n, or if EK ended up jumping the gun on the design too early to know about it. I suppose it could also be that this is the reason it's taking so long for the classy block to come out; (working it out so the K|ngp|n will fit it too i mean)


----------



## DuraN1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> You'd think with the K|ngp|n coming out on the 19th it'd be out soon. Speaking of that, i wonder if the classy block will fit the K|ngp|n, or if EK ended up jumping the gun on the design too early to know about it. I suppose it could also be that this is the reason it's taking so long for the classy block to come out; (working it out so the K|ngp|n will fit it too i mean)


New block for KPE. The reason for the delay of the regular Classy block was material shortage. The info is in the KPE thread over at EVGA forums


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Is there an update on the eta of the block?


No update but the statement still stands









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DuraN1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> You'd think with the K|ngp|n coming out on the 19th it'd be out soon. Speaking of that, i wonder if the classy block will fit the K|ngp|n, or if EK ended up jumping the gun on the design too early to know about it. I suppose it could also be that this is the reason it's taking so long for the classy block to come out; (working it out so the K|ngp|n will fit it too i mean)
> 
> 
> 
> New block for KPE. The reason for the delay of the regular Classy block was material shortage. The info is in the KPE thread over at EVGA forums
Click to expand...

This ^^


----------



## Kimir

And any ETA for the 980 KPE block then?


----------



## DuraN1

Got blocks for the 980 Strix + backplates today, tempted to grab one and sell my 980 Classy


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> And any ETA for the 980 KPE block then?


No ETA for the KPE


----------



## edgy436

Akira, anything new on the RVE monoblock? The EK facebook page has a comment from a rep saying it should have been up for sale on the 8th or the 9th. I've been patiently waiting for this block for 6 months now (my 5960X is just sitting around waiting for some winter clothes).


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edgy436*
> 
> Akira, anything new on the RVE monoblock? The EK facebook page has a comment from a rep saying it should have been up for sale on the 8th or the 9th. I've been patiently waiting for this block for 6 months now (my 5960X is just sitting around waiting for some winter clothes).


Then you will be happy in the beginning of the next week


----------



## DarkIdeals

UGH.....i REEEALLLLY want a 980 K|ngp|n edition, but for $750 + 160 for the block = $910. I can buy TWO gently used Gigabyte GTX 980s for that price, and i got a buy who will sell me a 980 WF3 block for $80, sitll have to pay full for the 2nd block though, lol









Any of you rich insider guys have some info on the performance of the 980 KPE? Specifically how much better clocks you can expect under water with EK block vs a standard 980 like the G1 gaming or EVGA Superclocked? And is it going to have any significant advantage performance-wise for gaming etc.. over the regular Classy? (again, with both under water with EK blocks)


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> UGH.....i REEEALLLLY want a 980 K|ngp|n edition, but for $750 + 160 for the block = $910. I can buy TWO gently used Gigabyte GTX 980s for that price, and i got a buy who will sell me a 980 WF3 block for $80, sitll have to pay full for the 2nd block though, lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any of you rich insider guys have some info on the performance of the 980 KPE? Specifically how much better clocks you can expect under water with EK block vs a standard 980 like the G1 gaming or EVGA Superclocked? And is it going to have any significant advantage performance-wise for gaming etc.. over the regular Classy? (again, with both under water with EK blocks)


You and I both know you'll be better off with 2 980's







. Trying to get some convincing since you're craving the K|ngp|n?

(I don't actually know the performance though)


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> UGH.....i REEEALLLLY want a 980 K|ngp|n edition, but for $750 + 160 for the block = $910. I can buy TWO gently used Gigabyte GTX 980s for that price, and i got a buy who will sell me a 980 WF3 block for $80, sitll have to pay full for the 2nd block though, lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any of you rich insider guys have some info on the performance of the 980 KPE? Specifically how much better clocks you can expect under water with EK block vs a standard 980 like the G1 gaming or EVGA Superclocked? And is it going to have any significant advantage performance-wise for gaming etc.. over the regular Classy? (again, with both under water with EK blocks)


If I were you, I would just get any 980 from EVGA (used warranty is the best). If your just gaming, K|NGP|N and the classified (not too sure about the classified) cards aren't really worth it IMHO. You can always overclock the crap out of them.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> UGH.....i REEEALLLLY want a 980 K|ngp|n edition, but for $750 + 160 for the block = $910. I can buy TWO gently used Gigabyte GTX 980s for that price, and i got a buy who will sell me a 980 WF3 block for $80, sitll have to pay full for the 2nd block though, lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any of you rich insider guys have some info on the performance of the 980 KPE? Specifically how much better clocks you can expect under water with EK block vs a standard 980 like the G1 gaming or EVGA Superclocked? And is it going to have any significant advantage performance-wise for gaming etc.. over the regular Classy? (again, with both under water with EK blocks)


If you're looking at gaming... I'd say the two 980's will provide a better overall benefit. If you're competing in various benchmarks, especially ones where even just ten more points can make or break things, the Kingpins will provide you with more opportunities to go further than reference.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Although I have moved on from soft tubing to hard, these new fittings caught my eye. They seem to fit in with the improvements EK have been making in their fittings line. Quite nice.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Although I have moved on from soft tubing to hard, these new fittings caught my eye. They seem to fit in with the improvements EK have been making in their fittings line. Quite nice.


Yeah, nice !


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> You and I both know you'll be better off with 2 980's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Trying to get some convincing since you're craving the K|ngp|n?
> 
> (I don't actually know the performance though)


Kind of, lol. It's just so beautiful!









I definitely knew that two 980s are far better than a single KPE, but i figured i could always get a 2nd 980 KPE/classy later. But for the price of the G1 gaming 980s ($450 each) i just couldn't pass it up. Just sold my two 970 waterblocks, trying to sell my two 970 G1 gaming edition cards now to get the remaining cost to pay for the 980 G1 gaming ones.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Although I have moved on from soft tubing to hard, these new fittings caught my eye. They seem to fit in with the improvements EK have been making in their fittings line. Quite nice.


Yeah those are the new EK-ACF fittings right? Just in barb version...so wouldn't those be called EK-ABF? (advanced barb fittings) instead? *headache starts developing*


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Yeah those are the new EK-ACF fittings right? Just in barb version...so wouldn't those be called EK-ABF? (advanced barb fittings) instead? *headache starts developing*


Yeah I guess so, I think using "Advanced" in any product name is a bit lazy and silly. Where do you go for the next version? Super dooper advanced? Just how advanced are these barbs ... do they connect to my WiFi?
I liked their previous naming, PSC ... Perfect Seal Compression. It described exactly what you want from a fitting. Although I guess if they called them PS2's there might have been issues.









I like their new system that uses an internal allen key fitment to allow tightening and loosening of the fitting base. At least one of those looks like it might use the same system. No more sore and cut fingers .. at least from the bases, although that is normally the important part.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

The Cautious One


----------



## BradleyW

Hey cautious one! I see you ordered the X99 ASUS Rampage Extreme! GL with the build buddy!


----------



## DeviousAddict

Hey guys, are there any full cover waterblocks for an FM2+ micro atx motherboards?
I'm not fussed which board as the only criteria for my next build is: FM2+ and micro atx and that it has a full cover waterblock.

If there are none for fm2+, then are there any fcwb for micro atx boards at all?

Thank you.


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> are there any fcwb for micro atx boards at all?
> 
> Thank you.


I think the only m-itx boards with EK full cover block are Asus Maximus Impact VI and VII: Full Board Blocks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey cautious one! I see you ordered the X99 ASUS Rampage Extreme! GL with the build buddy!


Finally!! I saved a couple Bucks Lmao and yes I am super excited to Slap Some Stuff on it (Mosfet Ek BLocks, and the EVO Supremacy) Thanks so much for the shout out!

The Cautious One

The Motherboard should be here tommorow if the Drones Fly fast enough against the wind you know?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Finally!! I saved a couple Bucks Lmao and yes I am super excited to Slap Some Stuff on it (Mosfet Ek BLocks, and the EVO Supremacy) Thanks so much for the shout out!
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> The Motherboard should be here tommorow if the Drones Fly fast enough against the wind you know?


So did the drone program take off with Amazon?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> So did the drone program take off with Amazon?


THis thing is supposedly left Texas already and Im right next to them so....! I actually think It will make it by tom. I wonder if that Drone is a 4 Propeller?









The Cautious One



EDIT: Ok Now Its 3 hours away. I guess I will get this thing Tommorow!


----------



## MrMD

So im lookin at the EK-DCP 4.0 PWM pump for my first loop as its pretty cheap(compared to a D5/top),and defiantly can generate good flow ect.

Wouldnt be getting the combo version,just the pump on its own,will have a separate tube res mounted to feed it.

My question,how loud actually is it? i read a lot about vibrations being a issue with mounting,pretty sure i can aviod that as iwould have it mounted in the backside of an Air 540,so should have ample space to place foam ect around it? Assuming the vibrations are isolated,is it pretty queit during standard operation? Also how big is the PWM range?,would have no issues running it at a lower voltage 24/7 if it made a difference to noise.

I REALLY dont wanna spend at least 2x the amount to get a D5/Top.Especially considering im only doin the CPU for now,dont know if i will ever wanna WC my gpu's.And choosing my pump is the final piece of the puzzle before i order.

Help!

Edit:Not sure this the best place for this,but as its the EK owners club thread and all lol


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> So im lookin at the EK-DCP 4.0 PWM pump for my first loop as its pretty cheap(compared to a D5/top),and defiantly can generate good flow ect.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Wouldnt be getting the combo version,just the pump on its own,will have a separate tube res mounted to feed it.
> 
> My question,how loud actually is it? i read a lot about vibrations being a issue with mounting,pretty sure i can aviod that as iwould have it mounted in the backside of an Air 540,so should have ample space to place foam ect around it? Assuming the vibrations are isolated,is it pretty queit during standard operation? Also how big is the PWM range?,would have no issues running it at a lower voltage 24/7 if it made a difference to noise.
> 
> I REALLY dont wanna spend at least 2x the amount to get a D5/Top.Especially considering im only doin the CPU for now,dont know if i will ever wanna WC my gpu's.And choosing my pump is the final piece of the puzzle before i order.
> 
> Help!
> 
> Edit:Not sure this the best place for this,but as its the EK owners club thread and all lol


i have the smaller ek 2.2 with a 360 rad, cpu block, 140 rad and gpu block. My gtx 970 temps are 35-40c and the water flows nicely.

The 4.0 has twice the flow of the one I have. That pump should do fine.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> So im lookin at the EK-DCP 4.0 PWM pump for my first loop as its pretty cheap(compared to a D5/top),and defiantly can generate good flow ect.
> 
> Wouldnt be getting the combo version,just the pump on its own,will have a separate tube res mounted to feed it.
> 
> My question,how loud actually is it? i read a lot about vibrations being a issue with mounting,pretty sure i can aviod that as iwould have it mounted in the backside of an Air 540,so should have ample space to place foam ect around it? Assuming the vibrations are isolated,is it pretty queit during standard operation? Also how big is the PWM range?,would have no issues running it at a lower voltage 24/7 if it made a difference to noise.
> 
> I REALLY dont wanna spend at least 2x the amount to get a D5/Top.Especially considering im only doin the CPU for now,dont know if i will ever wanna WC my gpu's.And choosing my pump is the final piece of the puzzle before i order.
> 
> Help!
> 
> Edit:Not sure this the best place for this,but as its the EK owners club thread and all lol


I have owned both the D5 and the DCP 4.0. I put the 4.0 in the back of the Air540 just like you are intending to do. It was the loudest thing in my build, even with 1600 RPM fans on full bore behind the front grill. The D5 is a work of art, and probably the quietest part of my current build at speed 3/5. But honestly, the 4.0 is a workhorse and is still running strong 24/7 for 2 years, and was plenty for 2 rads, 2 gpus, and a cpu...so yeah...loud, but strong, and cheap.


----------



## SteezyTN

I own a D5 pump. First ever, and will be my only choice for future pumps. So quiet, even at speed 5


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I own a D5 pump. First ever, and will be my only choice for future pumps. So quiet, even at speed 5


Is it possible to make a voice recording of your d5 at speed 5?Because i fill mine makes some noise thanks


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I own a D5 pump. First ever, and will be my only choice for future pumps. So quiet, even at speed 5
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible to make a voice recording of your d5 at speed 5?Because i fill mine makes some noise thanks
Click to expand...

If he doesn't, I can, and put the DCP 4.0 in as well. I have them both running in PCs in the same room.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I have owned both the D5 and the DCP 4.0. I put the 4.0 in the back of the Air540 just like you are intending to do. It was the loudest thing in my build, even with 1600 RPM fans on full bore behind the front grill. The D5 is a work of art, and probably the quietest part of my current build at speed 3/5. But honestly, the 4.0 is a workhorse and is still running strong 24/7 for 2 years, and was plenty for 2 rads, 2 gpus, and a cpu...so yeah...loud, but strong, and cheap.


I have owned both as well. But never have had issues with vibration on both.

Sadly though, the DCP died. Prolly cos it runs warmer than a D5.


----------



## DeviousAddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> I think the only m-itx boards with EK full cover block are Asus Maximus Impact VI and VII: Full Board Blocks


Cheers man.
Can't go AMD then for a cheaper build


----------



## dodgethis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Is it possible to make a voice recording of your d5 at speed 5?Because i fill mine makes some noise thanks


https://www.flickr.com/photos/dodgethis_sg/16139514738/

Here you go. This is the pump at 5. It should be silent even at that speed. What you hear is the fan in my room.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dodgethis*
> 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/dodgethis_sg/16139514738/
> 
> Here you go. This is the pump at 5. It should be silent even at that speed. What you hear is the fan in my room.


thanks a lot


----------



## dodgethis

My Lightning's waterblock and backplate are here! Mad props to Igor for getting one for me! Now for the fans and fittings!


----------



## Biggu

Subbing for more info on the R5E monoblock.


----------



## guitarhero23

New lower cost EK CPU blocks







http://www.ekwb.com/news/569/19/Supremacy-MX---the-new-high-performance-reduced-cost-water-block/

Sorry if its been posted already, didn't see it though.


----------



## lowfat

Looks like @sinnedone's block

IMO I think the LTX looks way better.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> Subbing for more info on the R5E monoblock.


Next week


----------



## inedenimadam

@akira749

I should have listened.

The Asus X99 mosfet block is a no go on the -A board.

$50 paperweight.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> I should have listened.
> 
> The Asus X99 mosfet block is a no go on the -A board.
> 
> $50 paperweight.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Please Tell Me you're not talking about these....

THe Cautious ONe


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please Tell Me you're not talking about these....
> 
> THe Cautious ONe


No it's this one inedenimadam is talking about

EK-MOSFET ASUS X99 - Nickel


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> I should have listened.
> 
> The Asus X99 mosfet block is a no go on the -A board.
> 
> $50 paperweight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please Tell Me you're not talking about these....
> 
> THe Cautious ONe
Click to expand...

this one rubs the chokes

Edit: I still might machine it down a bit and try again, but brushing the chokes seems dangerous

Edit again:

It actually does slide in and touch the mosfets just fine. But the chokes are fed through the side, and with the block rubbing all of them at the same time, it just seems like it would go up in smoke.
This is a deluxe, but the chokes are the same design and mount, and look exactly the same on the other side. I should have taken pictures while it was off.


----------



## ozzy1925

i think its good news for 980 classy owners:
https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks/photos/a.279856092068429.76142.182927101761329/808314309222602/?type=1&theater


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> New lower cost EK CPU blocks
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/569/19/Supremacy-MX---the-new-high-performance-reduced-cost-water-block/
> 
> Sorry if its been posted already, didn't see it though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Looks like @sinnedone's block
> 
> IMO I think the LTX looks way better.


Lol thought the same thing, maybe a little bit of inspiration from my part.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> this one rubs the chokes
> 
> Edit: I still might machine it down a bit and try again, but brushing the chokes seems dangerous
> 
> Edit again:
> 
> It actually does slide in and touch the mosfets just fine. But the chokes are fed through the side, and with the block rubbing all of them at the same time, it just seems like it would go up in smoke.
> This is a deluxe, but the chokes are the same design and mount, and look exactly the same on the other side. I should have taken pictures while it was off.


Do the holes line up on the board?

I'm in Orlando as well. let me know, maybe I know places that can help.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Do the holes line up on the board?
> 
> I'm in Orlando as well. let me know, maybe I know places that can help.


Yeah, the holes line up perfect, and the mosfets get perfect coverage, its just the juice on the side of the chokes I am worried about.

If it can be done cheap, yeah! I am up for suggestions, otherwise I would get a good blade for my router and make it happen myself.


----------



## Yungbenny911

Yeah... EK just had to wait for me to sell my MSI 980's on CL out of impatience, to release a waterblock a week later. Thanks Obama (-_-)"


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Yeah, the holes line up perfect, and the mosfets get perfect coverage, its just the juice on the side of the chokes I am worried about.
> 
> If it can be done cheap, yeah! I am up for suggestions, otherwise I would get a good blade for my router and make it happen myself.


So you can actually fix a non-fitting mosfet block you think? Because i've been trying to figure out if there's another block that will fit the ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition since EK doesn't make one unless you buy the entire full board block for some reason (well we know the reason, moar monehz!) But i'm scared to try it like inedenimadam did since you wouldn't be able to return them if it didn't fit.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> New lower cost EK CPU blocks
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/569/19/Supremacy-MX---the-new-high-performance-reduced-cost-water-block/
> 
> Sorry if its been posted already, didn't see it though.


I like the look of this. In particular, the backplate. I always thought the supremacy backplate should replace the socket latch instead of sitting over it.
I would love a Supremacy Evo that uses this style of backplate with a slightly updated Supremacy Evo hold down mechanism.

Hmmm, now I'm wondering if I could modify it to fit this backplate?


----------



## sinnedone

Agreed, maybe it will be for sale @akira749?


----------



## Leyaena

Word on the EK Facebook page is the full-cover blocks for the 980 Classified's will release on Tuesday next week.
Circled the date on my calendar, I NEED two of those beauties ASAP











EDIT: I realise now that Ozzy had already posted this. +rep to him.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I like the look of this. In particular, the backplate. I always thought the supremacy backplate should replace the socket latch instead of sitting over it.
> I would love a Supremacy Evo that uses this style of backplate with a slightly updated Supremacy Evo hold down mechanism.
> 
> Hmmm, now I'm wondering if I could modify it to fit this backplate?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Agreed, maybe it will be for sale @akira749?


I can't promise you anything but I will certainly put it in my monthly report. Who knows they might find the idea clever.

Thanks for this, I agree that it would be a nice add-on!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i think its good news for 980 classy owners:
> https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks/photos/a.279856092068429.76142.182927101761329/808314309222602/?type=1&theater


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> Word on the EK Facebook page is the full-cover blocks for the 980 Classified's will release on Tuesday next week.
> Circled the date on my calendar, I NEED two of those beauties ASAP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I realise now that Ozzy had already posted this. +rep to him.


----------



## kcuestag

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1479

I have that GPU. Will the normal waterblocks for reference cards fit on it, or they must be the SE version? I have one reference card and one TurboDuo from PowerColor.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1479
> 
> I have that GPU. Will the normal waterblocks for reference cards fit on it, or they must be the SE version? I have one reference card and one TurboDuo from PowerColor.


Looks like only the SE will fit. Its a very different block to the standard one


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1479
> 
> I have that GPU. Will the normal waterblocks for reference cards fit on it, or they must be the SE version? I have one reference card and one TurboDuo from PowerColor.


For the TurboDuo you need to have the SE block


----------



## MrMD

So been doing more research

Seems to be a DCP 2.2 undervolted/controlled by a fan controller is near silent as long as its mounted properly.

Fink im gonna go for a PhoybiaDCP 260. Sits between a 2.2 and 4.0 flow wise, and gonna hook it up to a Lamptron FC5 V2 to control its voltage to see how quiet it can get.Seems like a lot of pump for only £25 brand new.£85 for a D5 and top is just too much for me,especially when im only doin a CPU loop.Only concern is possibly noise,but i cant imagine its too bad as long as its mounted properly.

All that leaves is a CPU block to pick,i take it any EK block is good?,lookin at the slightly cheaper ones at the £30-40 mark.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> So been doing more research
> 
> Seems to be a DCP 2.2 undervolted/controlled by a fan controller is near silent as long as its mounted properly.
> 
> Fink im gonna go for a PhoybiaDCP 260. Sits between a 2.2 and 4.0 flow wise, and gonna hook it up to a Lamptron FC5 V2 to control its voltage to see how quiet it can get.Seems like a lot of pump for only £25 brand new.£85 for a D5 and top is just too much for me,especially when im only doin a CPU loop.Only concern is possibly noise,but i cant imagine its too bad as long as its mounted properly.
> 
> All that leaves is a CPU block to pick,i take it any EK block is good?,lookin at the slightly cheaper ones at the £30-40 mark.


Then the all new Supremacy MX could interest you









Supremacy MX


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Then the all new Supremacy MX could interest you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supremacy MX


Looks perfect for me tbh,i take these are replacing the EK-Supreme LTX blocks?

When are these getting mass distributed,where i get the majority of my PC stuff have been Out of stock on half the EK product list for ages.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> For the TurboDuo you need to have the SE block


If I were to use the SE block for the TurboDuo, and a normal block for a reference card, would the inlet-outlet holes align with both blocks so that I could use an EK Bridge?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> If I were to use the SE block for the TurboDuo, and a normal block for a reference card, would the inlet-outlet holes align with both blocks so that I could use an EK Bridge?


It says they will on the SE page


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Looks perfect for me tbh,i take these are replacing the EK-Supreme LTX blocks?
> 
> When are these getting mass distributed,where i get the majority of my PC stuff have been Out of stock on half the EK product list for ages.


Yes they are replacing the LTX.

The reseller availability always depends on when they order and how fast it's delivered. This is the kind of info that I don't have









Out of curiosity, where do you usually order? overclockers.co.uk?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> If I were to use the SE block for the TurboDuo, and a normal block for a reference card, would the inlet-outlet holes align with both blocks so that I could use an EK Bridge?


Yes they will align


----------



## Jakusonfire

Hey Akira, it looks like the MX is a centre inlet, split flow design rather than cross flow like the old ltx. Would that be right?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It says they will on the SE page


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes they will align


Thanks guys. Time to have my GPU's under water again.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thanks guys. Time to have my GPU's under water again.


If You're saying its time, THen You're Late !

The Cautious One


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> If You're saying its time, THen You're Late !
> 
> The Cautious One


Already had two R9 290's (non X) water cooled before.


----------



## kcuestag

One last question. The PowerColor R9 290X TurboDuo comes with a backplate. Is it compatible with the EK waterblock? Would save me a good amount of money instead of buying 2 backplates from EK.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Hey Akira, it looks like the MX is a centre inlet, split flow design rather than cross flow like the old ltx. Would that be right?


Yes you're right. It has the same system the EVO has,









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> One last question. The PowerColor R9 290X TurboDuo comes with a backplate. Is it compatible with the EK waterblock? Would save me a good amount of money instead of buying 2 backplates from EK.


That I can't garantee sorry. Maybe a current owner could.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Already had two R9 290's (non X) water cooled before.


I Feel better now

The Cautious ONe


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes they are replacing the LTX.
> 
> The reseller availability always depends on when they order and how fast it's delivered. This is the kind of info that I don't have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of curiosity, where do you usually order? overclockers.co.uk?


Yea usually OCuK,best selection of enthusiast hardware in the UK,and the CS is legendary.

I heard that EK were moving offices or something and thats why their stuff out of stock everywhere atm


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes you're right. It has the same system the EVO has,


So a removable plastic jet plate?

If so how is it 'budget' compared to the EVO?


----------



## VSG

The manufacturing process and materials used, mostly. I believe I have one on the way so I can compare against the Evo and see if there's any difference in terms of thermal performance. The liquid flow restriction also seems to be a bit higher than the Evo but a lot lower than the Supreme LTX.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Yea usually OCuK,best selection of enthusiast hardware in the UK,and the CS is legendary.
> 
> I heard that EK were moving offices or something and thats why their stuff out of stock everywhere atm


The moving is done so stock should go to the "in stock" status soon. Maybe send a quick e-mail to the CS of OCUK to ask them when they hope to have the MX.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> So a removable plastic jet plate?
> 
> If so how is it 'budget' compared to the EVO?


The Jet Plate as still in Stainless

The difference is that the MX only comes with the J1 plate and the I2 insert. Compare to the EVO that have the J2 and J3 plate and the I1 insert to have the possibility of switching.

The EVO comes fit the PreciseMount mounting mechanism which the MX doesn't have.

The EVO and the MX have different Backplate too.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> One last question. The PowerColor R9 290X TurboDuo comes with a backplate. Is it compatible with the EK waterblock? Would save me a good amount of money instead of buying 2 backplates from EK.


Can you post a picture of the backplate? If the screw placement aligns you can usually get away with it. For example with the gigabyte GTX970 if you get the proper screws elsewhere you can use the original gigabyte backplate (although it doesn't look anywhere as nice as the EK one)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Valentines Day Special. I was feeling Frisky










The Cautious One

(With Love)


----------



## Ceadderman

Oooh is that a 99 board with EK blocks I spy.









~Ceadder


----------



## lowfat

Shiny!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oooh is that a 99 board with EK blocks I spy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Shiny!


You Guys make me Blush









TCO


----------



## Janac

Hello, is there any chance mounting the Thermosphere on a 46x46mm holes on a gpu? AFAIK not, but I could modd it a bit.

Thanks.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Any word on if EK is planning to make a full cover version of their water block for the "FTW" GTX 980?

I'm going to pull the trigger on an EVGA GTX 980 next week and I'm torn between the SC and the FTW. The price difference is only $30 between the cards, but ultimately my choice will be impacted more by the knowledge that there will or will not be a FULL cover water block for it ... preferably in a nice nickel and clear finish.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Any word on if EK is planning to make a full cover version of their water block for the "FTW" GTX 980?
> 
> I'm going to pull the trigger on an EVGA GTX 980 next week and I'm torn between the SC and the FTW. The price difference is only $30 between the cards, but ultimately my choice will be impacted more by the knowledge that there will or will not be a FULL cover water block for it ... preferably in a nice nickel and clear finish.


At least according to this: http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist there is nothing out yet, so maybe it just might be safer to go for the SC or another 980 variant.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Any word on if EK is planning to make a full cover version of their water block for the "FTW" GTX 980?
> 
> I'm going to pull the trigger on an EVGA GTX 980 next week and I'm torn between the SC and the FTW. The price difference is only $30 between the cards, but ultimately my choice will be impacted more by the knowledge that there will or will not be a FULL cover water block for it ... preferably in a nice nickel and clear finish.


Just grab a Thermosphere. Unless you are pushing more than 1.2V you don't need a full cover IMO. My Strix has been folding/gaming non stop for 2 months @ 1.5GHz with a Thermosphere.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Any word on if EK is planning to make a full cover version of their water block for the "FTW" GTX 980?
> 
> I'm going to pull the trigger on an EVGA GTX 980 next week and I'm torn between the SC and the FTW. The price difference is only $30 between the cards, but ultimately my choice will be impacted more by the knowledge that there will or will not be a FULL cover water block for it ... preferably in a nice nickel and clear finish.
> 
> 
> 
> Just grab a Thermosphere. Unless you are pushing more than 1.2V you don't need a full cover IMO. My Strix has been folding/gaming non stop for 2 months @ 1.5GHz with a Thermosphere.
Click to expand...

Personally, I prefer full covers purely on a looks-perspective


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Personally, I prefer full covers purely on a looks-perspective


Unless you are doing reverse ATX you don't see the block besides the bridge anyway.


----------



## twoofswords

Speaking of Thermosphere...



I finally got to mounting the EK Thermosphere to my 290x. It's a shame the Gelid VRM heatsink doesn't come in black.

Just waiting for my GPU Cool backplate and it will be done.


----------



## Reaper28

Interested in other people's thoughts, I am doing a red/black theme (with red tubing so far) what do you guys think would look better acetal or plexi?. I love the look of red tubing connecting to the black acetal to me it looks professional but I like how plexi blocks illuminate the CPU/GPU to show them off which is what I want. What does anyone else think?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Unless you are doing reverse ATX you don't see the block besides the bridge anyway.


Yeah, but I know it's there and how it looks, and that's the important thing.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Interested in other people's thoughts, I am doing a red/black theme (with red tubing so far) what do you guys think would look better acetal or plexi?. I love the look of red tubing connecting to the black acetal to me it looks professional but I like *how plexi blocks illuminate the CPU/GPU to show them off which is what I want*. What does anyone else think?


Sounds like a plan

The Cautious One


----------



## B NEGATIVE

It finally arrived!


----------



## Ceadderman

Excellent B Neg!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Personally, I prefer full covers purely on a looks-perspective
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you are doing reverse ATX you don't see the block besides the bridge anyway.
Click to expand...

2nded!

I am in the process of doing a Reverse ATX for my build. I am gonna use Thermospheres for my GPU regardless. Acetal w/dual slot connector. Although I intend to go plexi connector so I can light things up a bit. At least the full card heatsinks are still available for my cards. I may have to cut them down slightly to fit Thermosphere though. Least I can mount fans between the cards if necessary.









~Ceadder


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Excellent B Neg!
> 2nded!
> 
> I am in the process of doing a Reverse ATX for my build. I am gonna use Thermospheres for my GPU regardless. Acetal w/dual slot connector. Although I intend to go plexi connector so I can light things up a bit. At least the full card heatsinks are still available for my cards. I may have to cut them down slightly to fit Thermosphere though. Least I can mount fans between the cards if necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I am using a Thermosphere on my R-ATX and I still think it looks great w/ my card.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Excellent B Neg!
> 2nded!
> 
> I am in the process of doing a Reverse ATX for my build. I am gonna use Thermospheres for my GPU regardless. Acetal w/dual slot connector. Although I intend to go plexi connector so I can light things up a bit. At least the full card heatsinks are still available for my cards. I may have to cut them down slightly to fit Thermosphere though. Least I can mount fans between the cards if necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am using a Thermosphere on my R-ATX and I still think it looks great w/ my card.
Click to expand...

Good to know. Thanks fat.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It finally arrived!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Man, that thing looks better the more I see of it. I want one.
I was also pleasantly surprised how good the Vardars look on my PE rads. I guess the industrial simplicity of the fan is offset by the flat surfaces and matte finish of the PE's really well. I was worried it would be a step back. Just gotta fix the rainbow wiring on the back of the fan for pull.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Just grab a Thermosphere. Unless you are pushing more than 1.2V you don't need a full cover IMO. My Strix has been folding/gaming non stop for 2 months @ 1.5GHz with a Thermosphere.


Meh, the thermospheres look terrible though...well, all universals do imo but that's besides the point. Full cover blocks, especially "true" ones like the EK-FC 980 CSQ block are a work of art asthetically. If i hadn't gotten a deal on my Gigabyte G1 Gaming GTX980s i'm using in SLI for $450 per card i would've definitely gone with a reference design like the SC simply because of the asthetics of that CSQ block.

Even the Gigabyte EK-FC 980 WF3 Nickel/Plexi block is a bit too small for my taste, since it not only cuts about 3-4 inches off the right side, stopping before the PCI connectors like the WF3 970 block does, but it also cuts about 3-4 inches off the left side too not starting coverage until after the SLI connectors. Although at least on this block you can use a rigid SLI bridge to cover at least some of the "emptiness" up. Although 2 way rigid ones only use one of the two sli connectors so you either have to compromise and only cover half the emptiness or use a 3 way one and have the sli bridge hanging over the edge of the bottom card since you have to be in adjacent slots to use the EK-FC Dual Parallel Plexi terminal i have.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It finally arrived!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## VSG

RVE monoblock out: http://www.ekwb.com/news/570/19/EK-introduces-Rampage-V-Extreme-Monoblock/


----------



## Freaxy

Wow! that looks awesome. It is that I'm not on X99, otherwise I'd definitely would have gotten it


----------



## VSG

I definitely have my eyes on it myself, makes plumbing a lot cleaner too. I liked the little dig at BP in that news release as well


----------



## Panther Al

Yeah - saw that too and got a laugh. I love how EK's monoblocks look: and this one is right on with the nice clean black surface.

Now all we need is a RV-E BE.


----------



## MrMD

Question

This pump http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17488/ex-pmp-211/Aquacomputer_D5_Pump_Motor_w_USB_and_Aquabus_Interface_41093.html the Aquacomputer D5,i know its designed to be used with the aquabus Device.But is it possible to connect the it to a standard Fan controller to control its speed via voltage?(assuming its got enough watts per channel).

Seen one for dirt cheap,tempted


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Question
> 
> This pump http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17488/ex-pmp-211/Aquacomputer_D5_Pump_Motor_w_USB_and_Aquabus_Interface_41093.html the Aquacomputer D5,i know its designed to be used with the aquabus Device.But is it possible to connect the it to a standard Fan controller to control its speed via voltage?(assuming its got enough watts per channel).
> 
> Seen one for dirt cheap,tempted


D5s hate being controlled via voltage.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> D5s hate being controlled via voltage.


I have 2 of those AQ pumps and they are great. You can control them via the Aquabus or USB.

Aquacomputer just came up with a new D5 pump that is PWM controlled. Rumor has it that it was based roughly on IT Diva's design to mod a standard D5 pump to be controlled by PWM signals.

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3255


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> D5s hate being controlled via voltage.
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2 of those AQ pumps and they are great. You can control them via the Aquabus or USB.
> 
> Aquacomputer just came up with a new D5 pump that is PWM controlled. Rumor has it that it was based roughly on IT Diva's design to mod a standard D5 pump to be controlled by PWM signals.
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3255
Click to expand...

Oh, I thought they were stock/vario D5s.


----------



## Biggu

Yep the Monoblock is released and I put my order in for it. Should have it in a few days if all goes well.

should clean this mess up pretty well if I do believe.










with that said ill have some R5E block up for sale soon along with a Supremacy EVO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> D5s hate being controlled via voltage.
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2 of those AQ pumps and they are great. You can control them via the Aquabus or USB.
> 
> Aquacomputer just came up with a new D5 pump that is PWM controlled. Rumor has it that it was based roughly on IT Diva's design to mod a standard D5 pump to be controlled by PWM signals.
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3255
Click to expand...

Nope,that mod has been going a while,AquaC used to sell the conversion boards for them,Jakusonfire detailed that mod a couple of years ago.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ...I liked the little dig at BP in that news release as well


_Unlike competitor solutions, the EK Monoblock series water blocks feature true monolith design,_


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> Yep the Monoblock is released and I put my order in for it. Should have it in a few days if all goes well.
> 
> should clean this mess up pretty well if I do believe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with that said ill have some R5E block up for sale soon along with a Supremacy EVO


Tidy it up? I for one like the look of the bent acrylic! Also damn, I literally just put in an order this weekend for a Supremacy Evo


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> Yep the Monoblock is released and I put my order in for it. Should have it in a few days if all goes well.
> 
> should clean this mess up pretty well if I do believe.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with that said ill have some R5E block up for sale soon along with a Supremacy EVO


Tidy it up?!







That's already a nice clean looking build


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Tidy it up? I for one like the look of the bent acrylic! Also damn, I literally just put in an order this weekend for a Supremacy Evo


God i love dat 980 hydro copper. Would've gotten two of them myself if i didn't take back my 900D to get an SMA8 instead. I did get my 980 G1 gamings for $450 each though, that was just too much of a deal to pass up. I do kind of still regret it though, if i had gone with like reference SC cards or something for $520-550ish i could've bought the EVGA HC block instead of the standard EK ones and at least had the look of the hydro copper even if it wasn't the pre OC'ed one.

I wonder what SLI 980 hydro coppers would look like if you took off the EK blanks and added a Dual Parallel/Serial Plexi Terminal to connect them....that would look epic







(not to mention solve the problem of the wonky LED in the blank that only shines in the middle of the EVGA logo)

Just talking about these cards makes me wanna sell my two G1 gaming 980s and grab some HC's lol. I already bought a nickel/plexi FC-980 WF3 block though...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Question
> 
> This pump http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17488/ex-pmp-211/Aquacomputer_D5_Pump_Motor_w_USB_and_Aquabus_Interface_41093.html the Aquacomputer D5,i know its designed to be used with the aquabus Device.But is it possible to connect the it to a standard Fan controller to control its speed via voltage?(assuming its got enough watts per channel).
> 
> Seen one for dirt cheap,tempted


As the guys have said the D5 Vario is really designed, a bit like a PWM fan, to be fed 12V constantly and it controls its speed by itself. By reducing voltage instead you get a narrower range of speed control. When I tried it with a Vario it would only go down to just under 4000 RPM before it would stop at anything less than 8V.
The speed range you get might depend on the controller used and flow rates in the system. I believe others have gotten lower speeds out of them.
The USB D5 is just a D5 Vario and behaves the same way.

The electronics in the D5 pumps is fairly complex. I believe it uses a system that converts 12V DC to a PWM modulated alternating current for pump speed and torque control. To me that always seemed like not a great place to mess with the supply voltage and figured that there was a reason they come with speed controls instead of like the original DDC pumps.
As for the pump you want to buy ... they are great, so go for it, but the standard controls will work much better than with a fan controller. If you don't buy it I will.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nope,that mod has been going a while,AquaC used to sell the conversion boards for them,Jakusonfire detailed that mod a couple of years ago.


I think they might be talking about modding of the PWM version to be 'Aquaero friendly' rather than modding of a Vario.
I would be interested to see if they have simply modded the connector wiring like Diva did, or if they transferred all the connections and mod parts into the pump housing. I wonder if that is possible? I can't think why not just off the top of my head at least. Diva would know.
Edit: Or actually maybe I am reading it wrongly.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> I wonder what SLI 980 hydro coppers would look like if you took off the EK blanks and added a Dual Parallel/Serial Plexi Terminal to connect them....that would look epic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (not to mention solve the problem of the wonky LED in the blank that only shines in the middle of the EVGA logo)


The terminal section of the EVGA HC blocks aren't compatible with the bridges from EK.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Just grab a Thermosphere. Unless you are pushing more than 1.2V you don't need a full cover IMO. My Strix has been folding/gaming non stop for 2 months @ 1.5GHz with a Thermosphere.
> 
> 
> 
> Meh, the thermospheres look terrible though...well, all universals do imo but that's besides the point. Full cover blocks, especially "true" ones like the EK-FC 980 CSQ block are a work of art asthetically. If i hadn't gotten a deal on my Gigabyte G1 Gaming GTX980s i'm using in SLI for $450 per card i would've definitely gone with a reference design like the SC simply because of the asthetics of that CSQ block.
> 
> Even the Gigabyte EK-FC 980 WF3 Nickel/Plexi block is a bit too small for my taste, since it not only cuts about 3-4 inches off the right side, stopping before the PCI connectors like the WF3 970 block does, but it also cuts about 3-4 inches off the left side too not starting coverage until after the SLI connectors. Although at least on this block you can use a rigid SLI bridge to cover at least some of the "emptiness" up. Although 2 way rigid ones only use one of the two sli connectors so you either have to compromise and only cover half the emptiness or use a 3 way one and have the sli bridge hanging over the edge of the bottom card since you have to be in adjacent slots to use the EK-FC Dual Parallel Plexi terminal i have.
Click to expand...

First, I am sure we can all agree that full coverage blocks are the preferred way to go.

2nd if I coulda gotten 6870 FC blocks in copper over Nickel(CPU block is Copper) that would have inspired me to pull the FC trigger a couple years back.

The problems though is 1) some of us don't have the funds to get a new block every time we upgrade GPU. 2) upgrades sometimes come at apoint where it's easier to swap a GPU block over rather than spend money to run a FC block and abandon it after a couple of months. 3) much cheaper to swap and the only thing replaced/added are heatsinks for VRAM and Mosfet Chokes.

While I would like to go FC, I could not get Copper for my cards. So I had to swallow my pride and just run stock reference coolers. I am waiting for 300 series so am just gonna get Thermospheres and be done with it, since I can get those in copper. FC heatsinks for my Cards are better than many HS coverage, but since competitor no longer makes them for newer cards I will have to get HS for whatever 300 I get.

I'm establishing myself in this business, so it's gonna be awhile before I can go all out. Especially with my little boy on the way. WISH I had a money tree in my back yard.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The terminal section of the EVGA HC blocks aren't compatible with the bridges from EK.


Really? Why not? Is the single blank not removeable or something? I assumed it had the same system of three allen screws that let you remove it like other EK blocks do. And by "bridges" you mean all connectors? As in the CSQ bridges as well as the non-CSQ "terminals"? I knew the CSQ bridge wouldn't work but since they appear to be about the same as standard acetal EK blocks in construction i figured they would fit the EK-FC Terminals.


----------



## Leyaena

So, it's finally tuesday morning








Guess who's refreshing the EKWB news page every 5 minutes hoping for the Classy blocks to pop up for sale?


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> First, I am sure we can all agree that full coverage blocks are the preferred way to go.
> 
> 2nd if I coulda gotten 6870 FC blocks in copper over Nickel(CPU block is Copper) that would have inspired me to pull the FC trigger a couple years back.
> 
> The problems though is 1) some of us don't have the funds to get a new block every time we upgrade GPU. 2) upgrades sometimes come at apoint where it's easier to swap a GPU block over rather than spend money to run a FC block and abandon it after a couple of months. 3) much cheaper to swap and the only thing replaced/added are heatsinks for VRAM and Mosfet Chokes.
> 
> While I would like to go FC, I could not get Copper for my cards. So I had to swallow my pride and just run stock reference coolers. I am waiting for 300 series so am just gonna get Thermospheres and be done with it, since I can get those in copper. FC heatsinks for my Cards are better than many HS coverage, but since competitor no longer makes them for newer cards I will have to get HS for whatever 300 I get.
> 
> I'm establishing myself in this business, so it's gonna be awhile before I can go all out. Especially with my little boy on the way. WISH I had a money tree in my back yard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


This is just a personal preference of mine, but i would never use universal GPU blocks honestly. I would go FC, or if i couldn't afford an FC block i would either get something like the ASUS Poseidon or i would stick to air cooling until i could get an FC block or sell my card. I suppose in SLI with certain cases that acetal thermosphere (which is larger than other uni. gpu blocks i've seen) wouldn't look too bad if you used good looking FC backplates and did other things like using a rigid SLI bridge to cover some of the empty space. The thing that bothers me is the "flatness" of the card, i hate when it looks so thin like that with just the PCB and bakckplate with a tiny little block on it. Secondary concern, is that i'm not a fan of the performance of universal blocks compared to an FC.

Of course, this is just my opinion.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> First, I am sure we can all agree that full coverage blocks are the preferred way to go.
> 
> 2nd if I coulda gotten 6870 FC blocks in copper over Nickel(CPU block is Copper) that would have inspired me to pull the FC trigger a couple years back.
> 
> The problems though is 1) some of us don't have the funds to get a new block every time we upgrade GPU. 2) upgrades sometimes come at apoint where it's easier to swap a GPU block over rather than spend money to run a FC block and abandon it after a couple of months. 3) much cheaper to swap and the only thing replaced/added are heatsinks for VRAM and Mosfet Chokes.
> 
> While I would like to go FC, I could not get Copper for my cards. So I had to swallow my pride and just run stock reference coolers. I am waiting for 300 series so am just gonna get Thermospheres and be done with it, since I can get those in copper. FC heatsinks for my Cards are better than many HS coverage, but since competitor no longer makes them for newer cards I will have to get HS for whatever 300 I get.
> 
> I'm establishing myself in this business, so it's gonna be awhile before I can go all out. Especially with my little boy on the way. WISH I had a money tree in my back yard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is just a personal preference of mine, but i would never use universal GPU blocks honestly. I would go FC, or if i couldn't afford an FC block i would either get something like the ASUS Poseidon or i would stick to air cooling until i could get an FC block or sell my card. I suppose in SLI with certain cases that acetal thermosphere (which is larger than other uni. gpu blocks i've seen) wouldn't look too bad if you used good looking FC backplates and did other things like using a rigid SLI bridge to cover some of the empty space. The thing that bothers me is the "flatness" of the card, i hate when it looks so thin like that with just the PCB and bakckplate with a tiny little block on it. Secondary concern, is that *i'm not a fan of the performance of universal blocks compared to an FC.*
> 
> Of course, this is just my opinion.
Click to expand...

Why? For core temps,a uni block is normally better than the equivalent FC.
Most cards now require solid VRM cooling...which the Uni block doesnt provide.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why? For core temps,a uni block is normally better than the equivalent FC.
> Most cards now require solid VRM cooling...which the Uni block doesnt provide.


Well the universal blocks i've tried all had 3-4C higher temps and even without that difference, like you said the VRM cooling isnt sufficient and even with heatsinks i'd prefer proper cooling of the whole card via a full block.


----------



## Roxycon

Is there a way to get hold on a EK D5 pump top without the csq design?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Is there a way to get hold on a EK D5 pump top without the csq design?


Not without the pump. EK have said they are moving towards only supplying tops with pumps included. Its a way to reduce the number of SKU's that the retailers have to stock.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Not without the pump. EK have said they are moving towards only supplying tops with pumps included. Its a way to reduce the number of SKU's that the retailers have to stock.


hm, that's a shame







can't really sell my D5's just to get a D5 either


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Not without the pump. EK have said they are moving towards only supplying tops with pumps included. Its a way to reduce the number of SKU's that the retailers have to stock.


Well, it actually works as the opposite, I mean the number of SKUs do multiply. They do not reduce in any way.

Looking just to D5s for an example. Before: 2 pump models, 3 tops and 3 res+top. They add to a total of 8 SKUs.
Now with only combos: they multiply 2 pumps by 6 options equals 12 SKUs.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> hm, that's a shame
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can't really sell my D5's just to get a D5 either


I'm gonna buy a new pump just to get hold of one soon. They even have special luxury versions of the DDC top that can only be had by buying the X kits. Those would be super rare.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> Well, it actually works as the opposite, I mean the number of SKUs do multiply. They do not reduce in any way.
> 
> Looking just to D5s for an example. Before: 2 pump models, 3 tops and 3 res+top. They add to a total of 8 SKUs.
> Now with only combos: they multiply 2 pumps by 6 options equals 12 SKUs.


That is one way to look at it, but because they want to offer pre-assembled units ( maybe in an effort to simplify things for noobs ) it instead becomes 12 + 8 SKU's. Its more than that when including the clean CSQ and CSQ versions too.

I don't really think its a great idea personally because I have changed my reservoirs and tops much more often than my pumps. I guess you just have to change to thinking of them as a unit. Want a new style top? Sell the whole unit and buy a new one. Only problem there is that I hate buying second hand pumps. They seem to have always been mistreated.


----------



## guitarhero23

Was considering getting an EK pump top...maybe I should do it sooner.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Really? Why not? Is the single blank not removeable or something? I assumed it had the same system of three allen screws that let you remove it like other EK blocks do. And by "bridges" you mean all connectors? As in the CSQ bridges as well as the non-CSQ "terminals"? I knew the CSQ bridge wouldn't work but since they appear to be about the same as standard acetal EK blocks in construction i figured they would fit the EK-FC Terminals.


The width of the EVGA terminal block is quite wider than an EK terminal so the mounting points aren't compatible. The EVGA terminal system looks more like a reminiscence of the old HC block done by Swiftech. I don't know why they did go this way.


----------



## Wirerat

Will a ek ddc x100 res/top work with a mcp-350?


----------



## Biggu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The width of the EVGA terminal block is quite wider than an EK terminal so the mounting points aren't compatible. The EVGA terminal system looks more like a reminiscence of the old HC block done by Swiftech. I don't know why they did go this way.


This is correct, it seems quite a bit wider than the standard. I do dislike the "hot spotting" the LED does to the logo and I may try and put something behind the logo or "frost it" to see if that will help. I must be honest, the card is just a 980 SC ACX with a HC block on it. I didn't want to wait for the HC to be released but I really only wanted it for its block.

I appreciate the comments on the loop. I too like the look of the tubing (as it was a pain in the ass to bend) however the real reason I am changing out is I don't like the copper block look on the motherboard. I had been planning on changing it out and the monoblock just gave me the opportunity to do so.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Will a ek ddc x100 res/top work with a mcp-350?


Yes, absolutely. Any standard DDC type pump will fit it.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why? For core temps,a uni block is normally better than the equivalent FC.
> Most cards now require solid VRM cooling...which the Uni block doesnt provide.


For AMD cards maybe.









All I am using on my GTX980 Strix is the tiny little sink the VRMs came with. I fold/game all day long @ 1500MHz. I've benched up to 1650MHz, 1.45V+ and it still held up.

But yes core temps on universals is almost always better than full covers.


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> D5s hate being controlled via voltage.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I have 2 of those AQ pumps and they are great. You can control them via the Aquabus or USB.
> 
> Aquacomputer just came up with a new D5 pump that is PWM controlled. Rumor has it that it was based roughly on IT Diva's design to mod a standard D5 pump to be controlled by PWM signals.
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3255


Ahh ok nice one.

If it can be controlled direct from windows via USB thats all gravy,will grab this as its a good deal and only slighlty more tan the DCP pump i was lookin at,extra ££ for a pump is totally worth it to get a D5

One more question,Primochillo CTR's,you can use these with both the in and out on the bottom cant you? I cant find confirmation anywhere


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why? For core temps,a uni block is normally better than the equivalent FC.
> Most cards now require solid VRM cooling...which the Uni block doesnt provide.
> 
> 
> 
> For AMD cards maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I am using on my GTX980 Strix is the tiny little sink the VRMs came with. I fold/game all day long @ 1500MHz. I've benched up to 1650MHz, 1.45V+ *and it still held up*.
> 
> But yes core temps on universals is almost always better than full covers.
Click to expand...

But for how long? Im talking about general reliability/stability,not choke it till it dies....
AMD benefit most,this is not in question,but Nvidia are not exempt either.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Will a ek ddc x100 res/top work with a mcp-350?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yes, absolutely. Any standard DDC type pump will fit it.


This ^^


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Sounds like a plan
> 
> The Cautious One


That's one person, anybody else?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yes, absolutely. Any standard DDC type pump will fit it.


thanks.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> But for how long? Im talking about general reliability/stability,not choke it till it dies....
> AMD benefit most,this is not in question,but Nvidia are not exempt either.


I wouldn't run 1.45V on any card long term. I would worry about killing the core before I'd worry about the VRMs overheating.

At 1.5GHz 1.2V the VRMS don't break 70C with crappy heatsink. That is far within safe operating temps. The card has been folding / gaming 24/7 for the last 2 months w/o a single crash.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> But for how long? Im talking about general reliability/stability,not choke it till it dies....
> AMD benefit most,this is not in question,but Nvidia are not exempt either.
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't run 1.45V on any card long term. I would worry about killing the core before I'd worry about the VRMs overheating.
> 
> At 1.5GHz 1.2V the VRMS don't break 70C with crappy heatsink. That is far within safe operating temps. The card has been folding / gaming 24/7 for the last 2 months w/o a single crash.
Click to expand...

You are missing the point,there are more 780's/290's etc out there than 980's,using one card known to run cool as an example for all is not good science neh? Im speaking in broad terms rather than one card specifically.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> D5s hate being controlled via voltage.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I have 2 of those AQ pumps and they are great. You can control them via the Aquabus or USB.
> 
> Aquacomputer just came up with a new D5 pump that is PWM controlled. Rumor has it that it was based roughly on IT Diva's design to mod a standard D5 pump to be controlled by PWM signals.
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3255
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ahh ok nice one.
> 
> If it can be controlled direct from windows via USB thats all gravy,will grab this as its a good deal and only slighlty more tan the DCP pump i was lookin at,extra ££ for a pump is totally worth it to get a D5
> 
> One more question,Primochillo CTR's,you can use these with both the in and out on the bottom cant you? I cant find confirmation anywhere
Click to expand...

After owning a D5 PWM with only what I can describe as coil-whine - I'd prefer the Vario


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> After owning a D5 PWM with only what I can describe as coil-whine - I'd prefer the Vario


Hmmm,i will take this under consideration for sure,wanting something as quiet as possible

Anyone know about the primochill CTR's,i really want to get one,but only to way to do it the way i want is in and out both into the bottom on the res


----------



## dodgethis

My Vardars came in today!



Tested them out in the open using a spare PSU and Swiftech splitter. They seemed to be as loud in the open as my Grand Flexes in the Phantom 530! The sound signature was very bearable and quite pleasant, I have to add. I was very disappointed that they didn't hovercraft though







I will try to make a video of them running in the next few days.

The red sleeving and red header is screaming at me to get rid of them and use black ones instead. And 30cm of cable? Really, EK?


----------



## madcat23

So I just finished my ek custom loop was looking for critiques or opinions on it, working great have my fx8350 at 5.0 ghz without breaking a sweat, but input from more experienced people would be cool


----------



## Alex132

Why did they choose Vardar as a name. Sounds way too similar to "vader" to me.

The EK father









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcat23*
> 
> 
> So I just finished my ek custom loop was looking for critiques or opinions on it, working great have my fx8350 at 5.0 ghz without breaking a sweat, but input from more experienced people would be cool


Cable management needs to be improved IMO


----------



## madcat23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Why did they choose Vardar as a name. Sounds way too similar to "vader" to me.
> 
> The EK father
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cable management needs to be improved IMO


yah my wiring needs work I know lol








Edit: I will say though that EK sent the 3 way fan splitter for the 360 rad fans, and they're all 4 pin, the splitter is for 3 pin fans so that was kind of a joke, but that would have made things neater lol


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcat23*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Why did they choose Vardar as a name. Sounds way too similar to "vader" to me.
> 
> The EK father
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cable management needs to be improved IMO
> 
> 
> 
> yah my wiring needs work I know lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I will say though that EK sent the 3 way fan splitter for the 360 rad fans, and they're all 4 pin, the splitter is for 3 pin fans so that was kind of a joke, but that would have made things neater lol
Click to expand...

Rotate the fans around, so the wires are coming out from the back and instantly hidden behind the mobo tray.


----------



## madcat23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Rotate the fans around, so the wires are coming out from the back and instantly hidden behind the mobo tray.


yah that sounds like a good idea


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcat23*
> 
> yah that sounds like a good idea


Don't forget to remove the protective sticker on the EK badges too


----------



## Rahldrac

I almost forgot that when I first put up my loop! Wondered about the design idea to make them blue, before I understood that it was stickers.
Is there a way to mount the DCP 4.0 pump with res to the radiator? I think I have seen it been done?


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> Yep the Monoblock is released and I put my order in for it. Should have it in a few days if all goes well.
> 
> should clean this mess up pretty well if I do believe.
> 
> with that said ill have some R5E block up for sale soon along with a Supremacy EVO


Be aware that now you have a Supremacy EVO on the CPU, and the monoblock is just Supremacy, but NOT EVO.


----------



## Roxycon

Could a single ek DCP2.2 res pump combo be enough for a supremacy evo, a 295x2 block, a ek ram block, two 120 PE rads and a 240 PE rad?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Could a single ek DCP2.2 res pump combo be enough for a supremacy evo, a 295x2 block, a ek ram block, two 120 PE rads and a 240 PE rad?


i just built a loop with a gpu block, 360mm and 140mm rad and cpu block using ek 2.2 dcp.

I am upgrading to a mcp 350 now. The 2.2 was working but flow rate was not great. If you are planning to overclock very much get the 4.0 or something a little stronger.

The 2.2 is a quiet pump in my fractal R5. If i wasnt wanting to push my 4790k i would just keep it installed.

My gpu temps are great(42c) but my cpu gets small spikes (62c gaming) . The same small spikes it would get if turned my h110 pump speed down too low.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> i just built a loop with a gpu block, 360mm and 140mm rad and cpu block using ek 2.2 dcp.
> 
> I am upgrading to a mcp 350 now. The 2.2 was working but flow rate was not great. If you are planning to overclock very much get the 4.0 or something a little stronger.
> 
> The 2.2 is a quiet pump in my fractal R5. If i wasnt wanting to push my 4790k i would just kerp it installed.
> 
> My gpu temps are great(42c) but my cpu gets small spikes. The same small spikes it would get if turned my h110 pump speed down too low.


ah







could have gotten a great deal on a xres dcp2.2, which would have complimented the rest of the build a lot better than the D5 top options i got


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> ah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> could have gotten a great deal on a xres dcp2.2, which would have complimented the rest of the build a lot better than the D5 top options i got


i just orderd at swiftech mcp 350 and EK x100 res for $90 shipped at performancepcs. The xres is only $29 right now.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-ddc-x-res-100.html


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> i just orderd at swiftech mcp 350 and EK x100 res for $90 shipped at performancepcs. The res is only $29 right now.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-ddc-x-res-100.html


Good find







but that would require me to get another pump when I already got two D5's I can't find a buyer for and two dcp2.2's, do not really wan't to use an excessive amount on the rest of the WC i need


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Good find
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but that would require me to get another pump when I already got two D5's I can't find a buyer for and two dcp2.2's, do not really wan't to use an excessive amount on the rest of the WC i need


u just need the res top then for d5.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> u just need the res top then for d5.


Yes, but non CSQ design, clean acetal all over


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Yes, but non CSQ design, clean acetal all over


ahh i see.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Yes, but non CSQ design, clean acetal all over


Depending on how your loop would be configured, you could simply have the "circled" side facing the interior of the case and it would be like you have a clean csq one.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Depending on how your loop would be configured, you could simply have the "circled" side facing the interior of the case and it would be like you have a clean csq one.


Yheaa, thought about it but I would've known







you cant make a special exception like you guys did with a sponsored build a while back, lol









Think I'm gonna go with the DCP and see if it's enough for now


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Yheaa, thought about it but I would've known
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you cant make a special exception like you guys did with a sponsored build a while back, lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I'm gonna go with the DCP and see if it's enough for now


Which build?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Yheaa, thought about it but I would've known
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you cant make a special exception like you guys did with a sponsored build a while back, lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I'm gonna go with the DCP and see if it's enough for now


you said you have 2 of those 2.2. if you worked the 2nd in ( minus res ) it would be plenty of flow then.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Which build?


Can't remember but the bloke got some custom made spare parts to match a black and gold build








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> you said you have 2 of those 2.2. if you worked the 2nd in ( minus res ) it would be plenty of flow then.


Hm, maybe that's the solution


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Can't remember but the bloke got some custom made spare parts to match a black and gold build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hm, maybe that's the solution


as long as pumps are identical it will work.









share your layout when you get it planned. Im interested. I almost ordered a 2nd 2.2 instead of moving to mcp 350 but I couldnt think of a nice looking way to incorporate a 2nd pump in my R5.


----------



## andyv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcat23*
> 
> 
> So I just finished my ek custom loop was looking for critiques or opinions on it, working great have my fx8350 at 5.0 ghz without breaking a sweat, but input from more experienced people would be cool


I guess it is more of a personal thing, but I think you could have planned the tubing run a little better.

I would have looked at something like RES>PUMP>RAD>CPU>MOBO>RAD>RES it would make it look neater. I doubt it would have any impact on performance at all. Other than that it looks good.


----------



## ivoryg37

Do EK CSQ GPU waterblock come with the FC-Link? I would just have to buy the FC-Bridge single correct?


----------



## Ceadderman

No EK GPU block comes with bridges, so Yes you would have to buy a bridge separately to connect more than one card.









~Ceadder


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No EK GPU block comes with bridges, so Yes you would have to buy a bridge separately to connect more than one card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Does it come with the FC-Link though? I don't plan on sli-ing my card. I just don't want to have to buy a right angle fitting so I know I have to buy the Single Bridge but do I also have to but the FC-Link(the part that connects to the waterblock that connects to the bridge)


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Does it come with the FC-Link though? I don't plan on sli-ing my card. I just don't want to have to buy a right angle fitting so I know I have to buy the Single Bridge but do I also have to but the FC-Link(the part that connects to the waterblock that connects to the bridge)


They normally do










Which block/card in particular are you referring to?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Do EK CSQ GPU waterblock come with the FC-Link? I would just have to buy the FC-Bridge single correct?


Every OriginalCSQ (the frosty ones) comes with an FC-Link


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Does it come with the FC-Link though? I don't plan on sli-ing my card. I just don't want to have to buy a right angle fitting so I know I have to buy the Single Bridge but do I also have to but the FC-Link(the part that connects to the waterblock that connects to the bridge)


Only CSQ waterblocks come with EK FC-Link, because only CSQ blocks can FIT the fc-link bridges. Any non CSQ waterblock such as a regular nickel/plexi or acetal one will have to use an EK-FC dual/triple/quad "Terminal" to connect multiple cards without just using the single terminals on the block with tubing/fittings between each one.

If the card you have is a reference model it "should" have a CSQ block available for it, if it does then it will come with the EK-FC Link connectors and you'll just need to buy the EK-FC Dual/triple/quad CSQ Bridge to connect them.

But if you just have one card then don't worry about it, the waterblock will come with a single connector regardless of what kind of block it is to allow you to put your fittings onto it.

Unfortunately though, i'm 99% sure you'd need a 90 degree fitting to go upward if you buy a CSQ block for your card. But you can find fittings that have the adapter and the fitting together for relatively cheap.

If that still bothers you though, you can just buy a single EK-FC Terminal like you mentioned. They're only like $10-15 most places.


----------



## Alex132

What does CSQ stand for?

Circle Square Q....


----------



## Leyaena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> What does CSQ stand for?
> 
> Circle Square Q....


Quantum!

Actually no, I looked it up cause your question got me wondering.
According to their official brochure on the CSQ design standard, it's:

- *C*ircle *SQ*uare

Okay, so that was a little bit anti-climactic


----------



## madcat23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> I guess it is more of a personal thing, but I think you could have planned the tubing run a little better.
> 
> I would have looked at something like RES>PUMP>RAD>CPU>MOBO>RAD>RES it would make it look neater. I doubt it would have any impact on performance at all. Other than that it looks good.


Yeah I thought about that too but wanted the 360 rad to cool the water before it hit the vrm and north bridge...more tubing yes but this way the 360 cools that hot fx and the 240 rad cools the board and pump...seemed best for performance to me...but I could be wrong lol


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcat23*
> 
> Yeah I thought about that too but wanted the 360 rad to cool the water before it hit the vrm and north bridge...more tubing yes but this way the 360 cools that hot fx and the 240 rad cools the board and pump...seemed best for performance to me...but I could be wrong lol


they say loop order is 1/2c - zero difference in temps. The water temp levels off for the whole loop.

I still set mine up like : res>pump>140mmRad>Cpu>360mmRad>GPU.

I see a lot of loops go straight from rad to rad though.


----------



## madcat23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> they say loop order is 1/2c - zero difference in temps. The water temp levels off for the whole loop.
> 
> I still set mine up like : res>pump>140mmRad>Cpu>360mmRad>GPU.
> 
> I see a lot of loops go straight from rad to rad though.


That sounds reasonable to assume the temps average out I guess...but I still would rather take my 1/2 degree celcius...also more tubing equals more water which I would think would bring average temps down...experts feel free to correct me but I'm an air conditioning tech so more coolant to me equals more capacity to cool as long as the pump can pump it.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

With residential and commercial air conditioners the heat is radiated outside.

I've done many "self contained" loops with the pumps, rads, and fans in the case (aka traditional water cooling), as well as putting the rads, fans, and pumps on a stand in another room and punching holes in the walls and run the tubing from the PC to the rad stand in another room (to make if virtually silent and to keep the heat out of the room where I am in).

No matter how you slice it, unless you put your radiators outside your house for your computer, the heat energy is still going to be inside your house to have your central (or window) air conditioner to deal with. It doesn't matter if you cool your computer by a conventional heat sink, an AIO, a custom loop with a little water, or a custom loop with lots of water. You still are just dumping energy into the room to be cooled by your homes AC unit.

Having said that, the 1-2C statement is true. After a loop reaches thermal equilibrium, regardless of the amount of water in the loop, that is that. All having longer hoses with more water in them will get you more surface area inside your PC to have the heat energy radiate from and warm up the inside of the case for all the other components. Getting it to the radiators as fast as possible (ie with as short a run as possible) is the real goal for me. Once it's at the radiator, the energy is more quickly dumped to the outside of the case without heating up other components.

IMO, I would rather have a "clean looking loop" that is 1-2C hotter, than a loop that looks like a hot mess and is 1-2C cooler.

The over clocking potential isn't going to be all that much difference. If you are concerned about 1-2C, then honestly, you might want to look at things like chillers, more radiators, etc.

Just my 2 cents.


----------



## madcat23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> With residential and commercial air conditioners the heat is radiated outside.
> 
> I've done many "self contained" loops with the pumps, rads, and fans in the case (aka traditional water cooling), as well as putting the rads, fans, and pumps on a stand in another room and punching holes in the walls and run the tubing from the PC to the rad stand in another room (to make if virtually silent and to keep the heat out of the room where I am in).
> 
> No matter how you slice it, unless you put your radiators outside your house for your computer, the heat energy is still going to be inside your house to have your central (or window) air conditioner to deal with. It doesn't matter if you cool your computer by a conventional heat sink, an AIO, a custom loop with a little water, or a custom loop with lots of water. You still are just dumping energy into the room to be cooled by your homes AC unit.
> 
> Having said that, the 1-2C statement is true. After a loop reaches thermal equilibrium, regardless of the amount of water in the loop, that is that.
> 
> IMO, I would rather have a "clean looking loop" that is 1-2C hotter, than a loop that looks like a hot mess and is 1-2C cooler.
> 
> The over clocking potential isn't going to be all that much difference. If you are concerned about 1-2C, then honestly, you might want to look at things like chillers, more radiators, etc.
> 
> Just my 2 cents.


Good input and yes air conditioners reject the heat to the outside but the temperature differences are very similar as the condenser on the outside is hotter than the outside air its rejecting its heat to...just like the heat off of the rads in a liquid loop


----------



## guitarhero23

New EVGA Blocks.

http://www.ekwb.com/news/571/19/EK-releases-two-new-EVGA-GeForce-GTX-900-series-blocks/

EK-FC980 GTX Classy - Nickel FC Terminal / HD Tube 129.95€
EK-FC980 GTX Classy - Acetal+Nickel FC Terminal / HD Tube 128.95€
EK-FC980 GTX Classy Backplate - Black - 34.95€
EK-FC980 GTX Classy Backplate - Nickel - 41.95€
EK-FC970 GTX ACX - Nickel FC Terminal / HD Tube 109.95€
EK-FC970 GTX ACX - Acetal+Nickel FC Terminal / HD Tube 109.95€
EK-FC970 GTX ACX Backplate - Black - 29.95€
EK-FC970 GTX ACX Backplate - Nickel - 37.95€


----------



## tSgt




----------



## Leyaena

I've ordered 2 for my Classy's


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

I just wish someone would stock the EK-FC980 GTX Nickel & Plexi.

There are a bunch in FrozenCPU (fat lot of good that does people), but Performance PCs, Xoxide, Aquatuning US, and Sidewinder are all out or don't carry them. Even eBay and Amazon don't have them or are coming from Italy.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I just wish someone would stock the EK-FC980 GTX Nickel & Plexi.
> 
> There are a bunch in FrozenCPU (fat lot of good that does people), but Performance PCs, Xoxide, Aquatuning US, and Sidewinder are all out or don't carry them. Even eBay and Amazon don't have them or are coming from Italy.


Dazmode in Canada currently has 3 in stock as well as backplates for it









https://www.dazmode.com/store/


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Dazmode in Canada currently has 3 in stock as well as backplates for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/


Well, I guess shipping will be cheaper from Canada than from Slovenia.

Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## Biggu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> Be aware that now you have a Supremacy EVO on the CPU, and the monoblock is just Supremacy, but NOT EVO.


Thanks for that, Got me looking at the block more and I would have had to re do the inlet on the block and the outlet which I knew I would have had to do anyway.

I ended up just canceling the order. not worth the downgrade and the new routing would be a clunky route.


----------



## mus1mus

She's old and have seen better days. But uhhhhhm!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> Thanks for that, Got me looking at the block more and I would have had to re do the inlet on the block and the outlet which I knew I would have had to do anyway.
> 
> I ended up just canceling the order. not worth the downgrade and the new routing would be a clunky route.


Uhh it's not exactly the Supremacy. Here the larger channel layout means that the ports need not be lined up with fittings in mind, and so the coolant drop down directly on the CPU IHS. In the few reviews of monoblocks done so far, they have outperformed the respective CPU block it was based off even with the additional heat from the VRMs and PCH added.

I have a Supremacy Evo here, and a RVE monoblock + Supremacy MX on the way for reviews. So I suppose I will find out soon if that actually is still the case. I also sent BP an email to see if they would be interested in getting their RVE kit tested out at the same time, so let's see.


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> New EVGA Blocks.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/571/19/EK-releases-two-new-EVGA-GeForce-GTX-900-series-blocks/
> 
> EK-FC980 GTX Classy - Nickel FC Terminal / HD Tube 129.95€
> EK-FC980 GTX Classy - Acetal+Nickel FC Terminal / HD Tube 128.95€
> EK-FC980 GTX Classy Backplate - Black - 34.95€
> EK-FC980 GTX Classy Backplate - Nickel - 41.95€
> EK-FC970 GTX ACX - Nickel FC Terminal / HD Tube 109.95€
> EK-FC970 GTX ACX - Acetal+Nickel FC Terminal / HD Tube 109.95€
> EK-FC970 GTX ACX Backplate - Black - 29.95€
> EK-FC970 GTX ACX Backplate - Nickel - 37.95€


The block for the 970 ACX does not cover all the RAM?

can that metal shroud/heatsink on the bare pcb be removed ?

not sure though Im just comparing the bare pcb with the block mounted.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> The block for the 970 ACX does not cover all the RAM?
> 
> can that metal shroud/heatsink on the bare pcb be removed ?
> 
> not sure though Im just comparing the bare pcb with the block mounted.


Yes all the VRM are covered

The metal shroud needs to be removed


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes all the VRM are covered
> 
> The metal shroud needs to be removed


I see thanks! time to order one....
oh but wait, back plate not yet available?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcat23*
> 
> That sounds reasonable to assume the temps average out I guess...but I still would rather take my 1/2 degree celcius...also more tubing equals more water which I would think would bring average temps down...experts feel free to correct me but I'm an air conditioning tech so more coolant to me equals more capacity to cool as long as the pump can pump it.


There's no half degree _performance_ advantage, there's not even a half degree difference in coolant temperature variation. Water moves too fast and has a massive heat capacity. You might be surprised to find that your components actually run hotter than when you do block-rad-block-rad instead of block-block-rad-rad. However, the CPU block should be directly after the rads.

Also, more coolant is insignificant. It only means the time to equilibrium is longer. It says nothing about heat capacity unless your reservoir is something like a 10 gallon drum.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> There's no half degree _performance_ advantage, there's not even a half degree difference in coolant temperature variation. Water moves too fast and has a massive heat capacity. You might be surprised to find that your components actually run hotter than when you do block-rad-block-rad instead of block-block-rad-rad. However, the CPU block should be directly after the rads.
> 
> Also, more coolant is insignificant. It only means the time to equilibrium is longer. It says nothing about heat capacity unless your reservoir is something like a 10 gallon drum.


i said .5 to zero. Meaning less than 1/2 a degree water temp difference. Which means almost no temp difference of the components.


----------



## madcat23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> There's no half degree _performance_ advantage, there's not even a half degree difference in coolant temperature variation. Water moves too fast and has a massive heat capacity. You might be surprised to find that your components actually run hotter than when you do block-rad-block-rad instead of block-block-rad-rad. However, the CPU block should be directly after the rads.
> 
> Also, more coolant is insignificant. It only means the time to equilibrium is longer. It says nothing about heat capacity unless your reservoir is something like a 10 gallon drum.


I agree it wouldn't be much, but you do realize that heat transfer is faster the greater the temperature difference is right? the cooling capacity (how many jules) of water is not in question I don't think, but how fast it absorbs heat does depend on temperature difference, that's the way it is, so I chose my tubing rout the way I did for that reason, if it makes no difference then so be it








edit: either way i'm very happy with EKs water products lol good stuff


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> i said .5 to zero. Meaning less than 1/2 a degree water temp difference. Which means almost no temp difference of the components.


Yes, I know what you meant. I replied to Madcat because it seemed like he was assuming there is a half degree performance advantage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcat23*
> 
> I agree it wouldn't be much, but you do realize that heat transfer is faster the greater the temperature difference is right?


Yes. And you realise this applies to rads as well as blocks? I get you are trying to argue that blocks transfer more heat when coolant is cooler, but I'm trying to remind you that rads transfer more heat when coolant is hotter. Any advantage you might gain from having a rad before the second block is lost again because the coolant is cooler through the first rad.


----------



## madcat23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Yes, I know what you meant. I replied to Madcat because it seemed like he was assuming there is a half degree performance advantage.
> Yes. And you realise this applies to rads as well as blocks? I get you are trying to argue that blocks transfer more heat when coolant is cooler, but I'm trying to remind you that rads transfer more heat when coolant is hotter. Any advantage you might gain from having a rad before the second block is lost again because the coolant is cooler through the first rad.


Not arguing at all what you just said is absolutely right...but since the same amount of energy is being transfered either way it balances out







when I do my semi annual system flush and tubing swap and cleaning I'll hook it back up the other way and see if there's a difference but for now I'm very satisfied with a 1.2 GHz over clock on my CPU hooray lol
Again not arguing just discussing I apologize if it seemed that way


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

I have a couple of questions about the EK-FX980 GTX Backplate - Nickel

1) After reading the installation instructions, it says "First install EK-FC980 GTX series water block according to its installation manual." Does this mean that you can't install the backplate without using an EK water block? I mean I do plan on getting one, but until I finish my case mod, I'm not planning on putting my GTX 980 under water and will just run it on air.

2) How is the finish on the nickel? Is it bright? Iis it a satin look? Is it so shiny that you can see yourself in it (ie like a mirror)? It's hard to tell from the photos. It sort of looks like a "satin" or "brushed aluminum" look.

3) How are the included screws? Do the match well with the finish of the block, or would you recommend getting different ones for the truly anal builders?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I have a couple of questions about the EK-FX980 GTX Backplate - Nickel
> 
> 1) After reading the installation instructions, it says "First install EK-FC980 GTX series water block according to its installation manual." Does this mean that you can't install the backplate without using an EK water block? I mean I do plan on getting one, but until I finish my case mod, I'm not planning on putting my GTX 980 under water and will just run it on air.
> 
> 2) How is the finish on the nickel? Is it bright? Iis it a satin look? Is it so shiny that you can see yourself in it (ie like a mirror)? It's hard to tell from the photos. It sort of looks like a "satin" or "brushed aluminum" look.
> 
> 3) How are the included screws? Do the match well with the finish of the block, or would you recommend getting different ones for the truly anal builders?


I have two of the Nickle Backplates sitting at my house. I will Get photos For you When I get off of work TOnight.

The Cautious One.

IF I can recall, It is not like a Mirror Nickle Finish (Plated) I believe you are on to something with the Brushed ALuminum look.


----------



## lowfat

I'd assume the nickel finish will be like how it is on their blocks. If you want a mirror shine to it, then take some Autosol polish to it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'd assume the nickel finish will be like how it is on their blocks. If you want a mirror shine to it, then take some *Autosol* polish to it.












This I Might Try.

TCO


----------



## atb001

I ordered a load of EK kit, including 290X copper/acetal blocks. Unfortunately, EK are saying they have no stock, and don't have the necessary materials to manufacture, and it will be at least until 27th Feb when they can dispatch (even though the website still says the item is in stock).


----------



## guitarhero23

Anyone know the measurements of this? From the back of the pump to the top of the pump top in mm or inches? (will +rep, can't find anything online)


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This I Might Try.
> 
> TCO


Yeah, I'm debating between the "mirror shine" (aka Chrome on a Harley) look, and having a custom one made up out of orange acrylic to match my build. I'm leaning towards the "Chrome" look.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Yeah, I'm debating between the "mirror shine" (aka Chrome on a Harley) look, and having a custom one made up out of orange acrylic to match my build. I'm leaning towards the "Chrome" look.


An Orange Acrylic You Say? Id have to lean toward the Mirror instead.







Can you dig it?

TCO


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Anyone know the measurements of this? From the back of the pump to the top of the pump top in mm or inches?


Top EK-XTOP D5 specification sheet is 34mm thick and I'd say the pump adds another 34 or 35mm, so like 68-70mm in total.


----------



## ElCid

Ok, in this specification sheet it can be seen that the D5 pump protrudes 32mm, so the total thickness for EK-XTOP D5 + D5 pump will be 66mm.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> about 80x70mm
> 
> 
> Ohh dust that is, cleaning soon must be done!


Something like there, I have the cover on it tho.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> An Orange Acrylic You Say? Id have to lean toward the Mirror instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you dig it?
> 
> TCO


By the look of the back plates, they are pretty "mirror like". After talking to the modder and verifying things, I pulled the trigger on both the an EK GTX 980 Nickel block and the Nickel back plate from PPCS.

Awesome video.




__ https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=822153931164601


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> By the look of the back plates, they are pretty "mirror like". After talking to the modder and verifying things, I pulled the trigger on both the an EK GTX 980 Nickel block and the Nickel back plate from PPCS.
> 
> Awesome video.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __ https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=822153931164601


Definitely looks like it could use some Autosol lovin'.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> By the look of the back plates, they are pretty "mirror like". After talking to the modder and verifying things, I pulled the trigger on both the an EK GTX 980 Nickel block and the Nickel back plate from PPCS.
> 
> Awesome video.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __ https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=822153931164601


Im Still Taking Pics Lol

TCO


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Definitely looks like it could use some Autosol lovin'.


Still might do that.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Im Still Taking Pics Lol
> 
> TCO


Excellent!


----------



## DarkIdeals

Anybody have any info on the new 980 kingpin? Specifically i'm wondering about waterblock availability. I was told by someone on here (akira iirc) that the K|ngp|n won't take the EK-FC 980 Classy block due to them having some differences. But i've heard others make posts (admittedly vague ones) that insinuate that it would fit the K|ngp|n edition. As well as the new page for the Classy block on EKWB.com saying "for EVGA classified "Series" graphic card "s" " The words "series" and the "S" at the end of cards kind of implies that it fits more than one card, unless they are referring to the -2988 classy and the rebranded -3988 one with the new model number or something.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Anybody have any info on the new 980 kingpin? Specifically i'm wondering about waterblock availability. I was told by someone on here (akira iirc) that the K|ngp|n won't take the EK-FC 980 Classy block due to them having some differences. But i've heard others make posts (admittedly vague ones) that insinuate that it would fit the K|ngp|n edition. As well as the new page for the Classy block on EKWB.com saying "for EVGA classified "Series" graphic card "s" " The words "series" and the "S" at the end of cards kind of implies that it fits more than one card, unless they are referring to the -2988 classy and the rebranded -3988 one with the new model number or something.


Still no words about the KPE block. The classy block won't fit because the KPE has an additional 6pin pcie connector so the EVBot connector is relocated to the side of the card and therefore the block won't fit.

EVGA and EK are still working together on it


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Still no words about the KPE block. The classy block won't fit because the KPE has an additional 6pin pcie connector so the EVBot connector is relocated to the side of the card and therefore the block won't fit.
> 
> EVGA and EK are still working together on it


Hmm, so we have confirmation that there will at least BE a KPE block then? I don't wanna buy one to find out that only bitspower or alphacool etc.. made one and not EK. Although if i really think about it, i doubt EK would be able to skip over the KPE block considering how much demand there will be for one.

Have any of you guys gotten your KPE on pre-order yet? It just came out if my information is correct so maybe not, but i have a sponsor willing to help me get a couple 980s and a block for them of my choosing. I was going with Gigabyte G1 980s but i hate the look of the short block, so i'm trying to decide between

A) Getting the classy 980s and the EK classy block

B) Just getting two EVGA Superclocked 980s (acx or reference, doesn't matter really) and two of the real nice looking "true" full cover CSQ nickel blocks

C) Grab a couple KPE's when they're publicly available (any word on that?) and wait for the block to be available.

But i'm wondering how much difference there would be between those blocks. As far as looks i prefer the SC since i can use the real nice looking blocks like the CSQ nickel and the hydro copper block if i wanted to. But i worry that the lack of 8 pin power delivery would hurt my performance. Do you guys have any testing info etc.. that shows that having dual 8 pin like the classy has would result in significantly better performance? I mean 225 max wattage on the SC due to it's reference design, vs 375 on a classy, gigabyte, ASUS Matrix etc.. that have dual 8 pin.


----------



## fast_fate

ready for paint


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Whoa!! Check Him OUT!!

TCO


----------



## snef

installed Waterblock on Maximus VII Impact for test fit,
last time you see these block in nickel finish, next photo shoot, the will be gold plated


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Nice! I thought The Post Was In Here

@47 Knucklehead Told YOu I would Follow up on the Nickle BackPlates. I tried to get a good of a shot as I could. Held up my hand in the last one to show you that the lines in the top of the plating throw a distortion off .






Its Hard to Get a Shot of it. I have a lot of Fans in the house and starts tripping me out when I see them spinning in the reflection.









TCO


----------



## DarkIdeals

Anyone living in US that orders directly from the EK store? Frozen is gone and performance-pcs is out of stock of the CSQ gtx980 waterblocks so i'd have to order them straight from newegg and i'm worried about the customs duty/fees. I can't seem to find any info on whether you have to pay a fee for it being imported into the US. I'd be getting two waterblocks and possibly two backplates + a CSQ dual parallel bridge to connect them so about $300 + shipping according to the subtotals on the site.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Anyone living in US that orders directly from the EK store? Frozen is gone and performance-pcs is out of stock of the CSQ gtx980 waterblocks so i'd have to order them straight from newegg and i'm worried about the customs duty/fees. I can't seem to find any info on whether you have to pay a fee for it being imported into the US. I'd be getting two waterblocks and possibly two backplates + a CSQ dual parallel bridge to connect them so about $300 + shipping according to the subtotals on the site.


I have ordered directly from them several time large orders and never had to pay anymore than was quoted on site.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I have ordered directly from them several time large orders and never had to pay anymore than was quoted on site.


How's shipping time?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Hmm, so we have confirmation that there will at least BE a KPE block then? I don't wanna buy one to find out that only bitspower or alphacool etc.. made one and not EK. Although if i really think about it, i doubt EK would be able to skip over the KPE block considering how much demand there will be for one.


Yes there will be one but it hasn't been decided if it will be an EVGA HydroCopper block (made by us) or an EK block


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> How's shipping time?


couple of weeks or shorter!!


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I have ordered directly from them several time large orders and never had to pay anymore than was quoted on site.


Have you made large orders? As in more than like $300 or containing alot of stuff? From what i've read the size/weight of the package and the cash value of it have something to do with whether it gets stopped for customs search and charged a fee/duty or not.


----------



## FrancisJF

Did anyone painted their Vardar fans yet?


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> Did anyone painted their Vardar fans yet?


I remember someone saying they painted their 120mm Vardar's, can't remember who it was though.

I'm kind of curious about what that would look like. Although the fans i'm most interested in are the Aerocool Dead Silence White LED ones and the Noctua industrial black fans. I can't seem to find any pictures of those particular fans being used on a big caselabs case like i'm going to use. Anybody have any pictures of Aerocool dead silence or noctua industrial black fans on like an SMH10, SMA8, STH10 etc..?


----------



## ghostwich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I have a couple of questions about the EK-FX980 GTX Backplate - Nickel
> 
> 1) After reading the installation instructions, it says "First install EK-FC980 GTX series water block according to its installation manual." Does this mean that you can't install the backplate without using an EK water block? I mean I do plan on getting one, but until I finish my case mod, I'm not planning on putting my GTX 980 under water and will just run it on air.
> 
> 2) How is the finish on the nickel? Is it bright? Iis it a satin look? Is it so shiny that you can see yourself in it (ie like a mirror)? It's hard to tell from the photos. It sort of looks like a "satin" or "brushed aluminum" look.
> 
> 3) How are the included screws? Do the match well with the finish of the block, or would you recommend getting different ones for the truly anal builders?


1) The backplate is meant to work with the block; the holes in the backplate line up with the ones on the PCB and then ultimately screw into the block. There are also cutouts (more like carve-outs) for where the screws used to attach the waterblock don't interfere with the backplate. I'm pretty sure you can attach the backplate to whatever cooler you have on the card stock - but you'd have to do some trial-and-error to see what screws fit if you go down this route. You'd have to take the backplate off when you finally do install the waterblock which seems like extra effort.

3) They're black. I suppose if someone is that concerned about the look, they could be replaced, just remember to use the right size.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

GPU Blocks for the EK Vulture build.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Nice! I thought The Post Was In Here
> 
> @47 Knucklehead Told YOu I would Follow up on the Nickle BackPlates. I tried to get a good of a shot as I could. Held up my hand in the last one to show you that the lines in the top of the plating throw a distortion off .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its Hard to Get a Shot of it. I have a lot of Fans in the house and starts tripping me out when I see them spinning in the reflection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Excellent, thanks for the shots!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Anyone living in US that orders directly from the EK store? Frozen is gone and performance-pcs is out of stock of the CSQ gtx980 waterblocks so i'd have to order them straight from newegg and i'm worried about the customs duty/fees. I can't seem to find any info on whether you have to pay a fee for it being imported into the US. I'd be getting two waterblocks and possibly two backplates + a CSQ dual parallel bridge to connect them so about $300 + shipping according to the subtotals on the site.


I have.

It's more expensive than to order from the US, but it isn't as insane as you'd think.

I think they ship to me 2 ways, both 3 day (one UPS, the other I forget which) and for a block and backplate, it was about $20 ... which isn't that bad considering.

Truth be told, the only reason I ordered from PPC, even though they were out of stock on the block and had to special order it, was ...

1) I wasn't in a rush.
2) PPC has a 5.1% discount code at checkout. IF the EKWB site had that, I'd order directly from them all the time.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes there will be one but it hasn't been decided if it will be an EVGA HydroCopper block (made by us) or an EK block


Here's hoping it's a proper EK block, as the ek ones look significantly better. Sure, the glowy EVGA on the top can be interesting, but that means you've no choice but to use pipe to connect multiples, plus they tend to cover up all the delicious internal goodies of a waterblock if the most current HydroCopper blocks are anything to go by.


----------



## Wirerat

Swapped out the ek dcp 2.2 for a mcp350 with ek xres 100 ddc top.

My cpu temps dropped 8c under load and the weird spikes are gone.

Anyone considering the dcp 2.2 for more than one block needs to be certain tbere is not much restriction in the loop.

With the 2.2 the water barely moved in the res. Now with the mcp350 its like a tornado in the res.

Im going to assemble a gpu only loop for my sons rig and try to put the little pump back to use though. I still think with one block and one rad its fine.

Edit: on a side note. If i wasnt overclocking the little 2.2 would have been fine.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes there will be one but it hasn't been decided if it will be an EVGA HydroCopper block (made by us) or an EK block


What is the Benefit of Getting a Card with a Waterblock attached from the factory when we could all clearly do it ourselves?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Excellent, thanks for the shots!


TOld you I got you bub!

TCO


----------



## dodgethis

Because you don't have to do it yourself and everything would, I assume, be tested to work out of the box.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What is the Benefit of Getting a Card with a Waterblock attached from the factory when we could all clearly do it ourselves?


It would be sold separately but from EVGA directly


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dodgethis*
> 
> Because you don't have to do it yourself and everything would, I assume, be tested to work out of the box.


Meh. What's the fun in that? Plus the Hydro block isn't able to be customized right? Or If you did you would be paying 700 for the card and Block then additional cash for the adds.

TCO


----------



## DNMock

Did I just bork my EK FC full cover water block?

Re-doing my loop and put an EK-FC terminal on my GPU's. After 24 hours of leak testing it was good, then while putting the coolant in, it started to leak from between the terminal and the block.

Once I took the terminal off, I noticed one of the screws had small black plastic shavings come out with it and there was coolant on the bottom half inch of the threading on the screw. I must have screwed up because the screw was a bit longer than all the others, although it was the same width and threading as the others, I think it was from some other EK product I have and got mixed up somehow.

Also I took that block completely apart for cleaning, so either I screwed up putting it back together, or I punctured something with the screw because I don't think the screws are supposed to come in contact with the fluid at any point. So did I just fail at my re-assembly or would over-tightening a screw that appears to be about an 1/8th of an inch longer than it should be puncture into where it shouldn't be.

Since the leak was only in that one spot and it passed the initial leak test just fine, I'm thinking the screw punctured through where it shouldn't have gone and the excess pressure generated by refilling the loop caused it to get on out.

edit: the gaskets appeared to be just fine when I took it apart.


----------



## Ceadderman

Sounds like you may have put the screw in the wrong hole. I know that my block is neither a GPU nor the same as yours but my CIVF MB b?lock has 2 different length screws.

So maybe you might try disassembly and identifying which screws go where. Your block may not be borked @ all. Your screw may just be acting as a wick allowing your coolant to flow into and leak at that point.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mark Huntsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Did I just bork my EK FC full cover water block?
> 
> Re-doing my loop and put an EK-FC terminal on my GPU's. After 24 hours of leak testing it was good, then while putting the coolant in, it started to leak from between the terminal and the block.
> 
> Once I took the terminal off, I noticed one of the screws had small black plastic shavings come out with it and there was coolant on the bottom half inch of the threading on the screw. I must have screwed up because the screw was a bit longer than all the others, although it was the same width and threading as the others, I think it was from some other EK product I have and got mixed up somehow.
> 
> Also I took that block completely apart for cleaning, so either I screwed up putting it back together, or I punctured something with the screw because I don't think the screws are supposed to come in contact with the fluid at any point. So did I just fail at my re-assembly or would over-tightening a screw that appears to be about an 1/8th of an inch longer than it should be puncture into where it shouldn't be.
> 
> Since the leak was only in that one spot and it passed the initial leak test just fine, I'm thinking the screw punctured through where it shouldn't have gone and the excess pressure generated by refilling the loop caused it to get on out.
> 
> edit: the gaskets appeared to be just fine when I took it apart.


There is also the option of that screw not holding and pressing the seal together, you may have simply screwed I'd deeper than the threads were machined, the screw was stopped by the bottom of the hole and did not build up enough pressure on the gasket to seal as it is supposed to. Try to reassembly it with shorter screw and check that those two parts sit perfectly flush with each other. (unfortunately I don't have any ek blocks myself yet, but I was thinking about this problem when I was designing and assembling my own waterblocks)

That's just my opinion, because if it is acetal, you would sooner strip the threads than to puncture trough the block if it is standard sized thread (I.e. metric, unc, unf... Nothing like self tapping screws.)


----------



## bigporl

Well looks like its time to finally strip down the old computer and get her ready for water so as usual a few questions. This time about the gpu block.
Thermal paste. When i put it on the gpu do i go the usual small grain of rice size as im used to or go the crosses like the ek sheet says? This seems a little too much to me and the small rice small ball has always been perfect before.
Thermal pads. Do i put these on all the said parts then put the waterblock on or do i put them on AND thermal paste as well? I have heard conflicting stories. Also when the back plate goes on would i do the same?

Thanks in advance


----------



## VSG

Got some EK goodies to play with today:


----------



## GhostHitWall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Got some EK goodies to play with today:


Can't wait to see ppl post how the MX blocks perform


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> Well looks like its time to finally strip down the old computer and get her ready for water so as usual a few questions. This time about the gpu block.
> Thermal paste. When i put it on the gpu do i go the usual small grain of rice size as im used to or go the crosses like the ek sheet says? This seems a little too much to me and the small rice small ball has always been perfect before.
> Thermal pads. Do i put these on all the said parts then put the waterblock on or do i put them on AND thermal paste as well? I have heard conflicting stories. Also when the back plate goes on would i do the same?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Someone once told me, no TIM on the thermal pads, BUT make sure your thermal pad are thick enough...... and small grain of rice is fine, the more u put on.. the more it will generate heat... (aka glob of paste)


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> Well looks like its time to finally strip down the old computer and get her ready for water so as usual a few questions. This time about the gpu block.
> Thermal paste. When i put it on the gpu do i go the usual small grain of rice size as im used to or go the crosses like the ek sheet says? This seems a little too much to me and the small rice small ball has always been perfect before.
> Thermal pads. Do i put these on all the said parts then put the waterblock on or do i put them on AND thermal paste as well? I have heard conflicting stories. Also when the back plate goes on would i do the same?
> 
> Thanks in advance


The grain of rice size will be enough. I always find that the cross pattern gives too much paste.

For the thermal pads (block and backplate), yes you have to put them all where it's indicated. Putting only the thermal pads without paste is all you have to do.


----------



## Frontside

Hey, guys. Please sign me in.
I got these shiny and sweet things




























and more EK goodies


----------



## bigporl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Someone once told me, no TIM on the thermal pads, BUT make sure your thermal pad are thick enough...... and small grain of rice is fine, the more u put on.. the more it will generate heat... (aka glob of paste)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The grain of rice size will be enough. I always find that the cross pattern gives too much paste.
> 
> For the thermal pads (block and backplate), yes you have to put them all where it's indicated. Putting only the thermal pads without paste is all you have to do.


Thanks guys I'll go with the blob method pads came with the ek block full cover clean csq i think there 0.5mm i think they are.
Do i also need to use pads on the other side too when putting on the back plate?


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> Thanks guys I'll go with the blob method pads came with the ek block full cover clean csq i think there 0.5mm i think they are.
> Do i also need to use pads on the other side too when putting on the back plate?


It depends on what card and backplate you are using. What model is your gpu? Backplates "usually" need their own thermal pads, but sometimes only one or two, sometimes several, or at times none at all (passive backplate). It should say on the instructions that come in the EK backplate box exactly how many pads and where they go etc..

And yeah EK reccomends the cross method which works pretty good if you have a steady enough hand to do it thinly without getting it on too thick, but i find that the blob/rice grain method works almost as good if not the same (maybe 0.5C difference at most) and is far easier to clean up once you remove the block or change things around etc.. It's a pain in the rear to clean thermal paste off that gets in the little square area that surrounds the GPU, especially when it gets in between the little pin things making it nearly impossible to get out with cue-tip, cloth, you name it etc.. Don't forget to clean the old thermal paste off of the stock heatsink too though, alot of people ignore that, but if you ever want to put the heatsink back on it'll be much easier to get the past off now since it'll dry up when exposed to air and get harder to remove over time. And since it's a heatsink you don't have to be slow and delicate like you do when removing paste off the gpu die/pcb, just take a rag and pour some alcohol on it and scrub away


----------



## bigporl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> It depends on what card and backplate you are using. What model is your gpu? Backplates "usually" need their own thermal pads, but sometimes only one or two, sometimes several, or at times none at all (passive backplate). It should say on the instructions that come in the EK backplate box exactly how many pads and where they go etc..
> 
> And yeah EK reccomends the cross method which works pretty good if you have a steady enough hand to do it thinly without getting it on too thick, but i find that the blob/rice grain method works almost as good if not the same (maybe 0.5C difference at most) and is far easier to clean up once you remove the block or change things around etc.. It's a pain in the rear to clean thermal paste off that gets in the little square area that surrounds the GPU, especially when it gets in between the little pin things making it nearly impossible to get out with cue-tip, cloth, you name it etc.. Don't forget to clean the old thermal paste off of the stock heatsink too though, alot of people ignore that, but if you ever want to put the heatsink back on it'll be much easier to get the past off now since it'll dry up when exposed to air and get harder to remove over time. And since it's a heatsink you don't have to be slow and delicate like you do when removing paste off the gpu die/pcb, just take a rag and pour some alcohol on it and scrub away


Its a EVGA GTX 780 SC ACX the waterblock is the full cover plexi lean csq nickel will have to have a look at the backplate when it arrives. My hands are twitching to rip apart the old pc to put what i have in but need a few things before i start so probs be next week and that includes cutting up my case.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> Thanks guys I'll go with the blob method pads came with the ek block full cover clean csq i think there 0.5mm i think they are.
> Do i also need to use pads on the other side too when putting on the back plate?


Yep the backplate will come with it's strip of thermal pads that you'll need to apply on it.


----------



## bigporl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yep the backplate will come with it's strip of thermal pads that you'll need to apply on it.


Thanks you have all been very helpfull. Will post pictures before,during and after.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark Huntsman*
> 
> There is also the option of that screw not holding and pressing the seal together, you may have simply screwed I'd deeper than the threads were machined, the screw was stopped by the bottom of the hole and did not build up enough pressure on the gasket to seal as it is supposed to. Try to reassembly it with shorter screw and check that those two parts sit perfectly flush with each other. (unfortunately I don't have any ek blocks myself yet, but I was thinking about this problem when I was designing and assembling my own waterblocks)
> 
> That's just my opinion, because if it is acetal, you would sooner strip the threads than to puncture trough the block if it is standard sized thread (I.e. metric, unc, unf... Nothing like self tapping screws.)


yep, turns out I'm just an idiot. both cards were 290X and full blocks, but one was Rev 1.0 and the other was and SE variant. One of the cards is about a 1/16th of an inch taller than the other so a lot of undue stress was put on those screws holding the terminal tight in spot.

put some teflon tape around the screws and actually swapped to the longer ones for all 3 holes and just ran tubing from one to the other and everything is working just fine now.

I almost wish one of these times I open my mouth it would turn out to be an actual mechanical failure and not just a random user error discovered after the fact.


----------



## seross69

We all do this and me more than others!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

I had a feeling it was something along the line of a screw being out of place. Least you found it and corrected the problem.









Okay, stoopid question time...

Why are the acrylic Bridges double the price of the acetal Bridges? Imho that's just wrong. They were never priced like that before Thermosphere. Or are they typically the same price an someone has marked them up to take advantage of demand? Cause acrylic Therms are the same exact price as the Acetal version.

If I could get them for a reasonable price I want to go Acetal blocks and Acrylic . if not then I am forced to go Acrylic Ts and Acetal bridge.

I haven't checked the website, only the lone option available to us now.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I had a feeling it was something along the line of a screw being out of place. Least you found it and corrected the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, stoopid question time...
> 
> Why are the acrylic Bridges double the price of the acetal Bridges? Imho that's just wrong. They were never priced like that before Thermosphere. Or are they typically the same price an someone has marked them up to take advantage of demand? Cause acrylic Therms are the same exact price as the Acetal version.
> 
> If I could get them for a reasonable price I want to go Acetal blocks and Acrylic . if not then I am forced to go Acrylic Ts and Acetal bridge.
> 
> I haven't checked the website, only the lone option available to us now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm not sure if this is true or just hogwash, but some of the insiders in EK i had a chance to speak with recently said that the reason there isn't a Quad Plexi EK bridge/terminal yet (there are plans to make one soon though) is that they said it's so hard to work with large chunks of acrylic and fragile plastics like that. So it's possible that the higher cost is due to the fact that Plexi bridges are tougher to mold and carve into proper shape and design than Acetal. I mean we do know that to be true, those of us who've worked with acrylic tubing and stuff anyway. One wrong move with a saw or heating it wrong or dropping it from even moderate heights etc.. tends to make them crack and break, this is true of all fragile plastics for the most part. Although it's just as likely that your theory is correct too and it's just a price gouge or something...


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Got some EK goodies to play with today:


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I had a feeling it was something along the line of a screw being out of place. Least you found it and corrected the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, stoopid question time...
> 
> Why are the acrylic Bridges double the price of the acetal Bridges? Imho that's just wrong. They were never priced like that before Thermosphere. Or are they typically the same price an someone has marked them up to take advantage of demand? Cause acrylic Therms are the same exact price as the Acetal version.
> 
> If I could get them for a reasonable price I want to go Acetal blocks and Acrylic . if not then I am forced to go Acrylic Ts and Acetal bridge.
> 
> I haven't checked the website, only the lone option available to us now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Plexi cost more than Acetal and also it cost more to produce. This is why the plexi bridges are more expensive than the acetal ones.


----------



## Gilles3000

I just posted an idea for the EK-Thermosphere on EK's thinkcell, A simple spacer that would allow for wider GPU's.

To me this seems like an easy solution to increase the compatibility of this universal block, especially considering the sometimes long wait for full-cover waterblocks for non-reference designs.

Here's the link to the thinkCell Idea:
http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/ek-thermosphere-spacer-for-wider-gpu039s/


----------



## MrMD

Got a basket of stuff about to click to order.For a haswell I5 is the it worth the extra £20 to get an ek supremecy evo instead of a supreme LTX? Would be powered by a D5?


----------



## VSG

Get the Supremacy MX then, costs about the same as the Supreme LTX and performs better.


----------



## MrMD

Nowhere in the UK stocks it yet,and no idea about price when it does.

Can get the Supremacy Evo for £50 which seems reasonable


----------



## Malik

time to start the adventure...


----------



## Kimir

Hmmm, beautiful, this is gonna be good.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> time to start the adventure...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I need a link to the log


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I need a link to the log


Soon, right now only teaser


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Nowhere in the UK stocks it yet,and no idea about price when it does.
> 
> Can get the Supremacy Evo for £50 which seems reasonable


Personally, i love the evo. You can't go wrong with it. I love the original CSQ version too. I hate that EK is kind of shying away from the CSQ design lately after some ungrateful people whined about "those damn circles everywhere" etc.. But you really can't go wrong with the Evo. You can get it in clean/original csq with regular copper for a copper fitting/tubing build, or to save cash, you can get it in clean/original csq in nickel plated, red, white, full nickel etc.. and it's by far the best performing cpu block i've seen. I'm glad i didn't go for the ppcs customized Apogee XL and got the supremacy evo nickel original csq instead. Although as people mentioned the MX is a great block too, but i would stay with evo over LTX on looks alone, and also due to the greater performance for not much more money.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Nowhere in the UK stocks it yet,and no idea about price when it does.
> 
> Can get the Supremacy Evo for £50 which seems reasonable


Try asking OcUK I suppose. It will replace the Supreme LTX price wise and is really pretty much the same performance wise for your CPU compared to the Evo.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> time to start the adventure...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh yes...


----------



## Malik

And this is all for today


----------



## tSgt

I have to ask...
Why Black and Red theme ?


----------



## Malik

I think that the last one photo is the answer for your question


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Got a basket of stuff about to click to order.For a haswell I5 is the it worth the extra £20 to get an ek supremecy evo instead of a supreme LTX? Would be powered by a D5?


5-7 degree difference likely. Which IMO won't make or break an overclock or anything like that. I am happy w/ my LTX. Plus it IMO looks better.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I had a feeling it was something along the line of a screw being out of place. Least you found it and corrected the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, stoopid question time...
> 
> Why are the acrylic Bridges double the price of the acetal Bridges? Imho that's just wrong. They were never priced like that before Thermosphere. Or are they typically the same price an someone has marked them up to take advantage of demand? Cause acrylic Therms are the same exact price as the Acetal version.
> 
> If I could get them for a reasonable price I want to go Acetal blocks and Acrylic . if not then I am forced to go Acrylic Ts and Acetal bridge.
> 
> I haven't checked the website, only the lone option available to us now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plexi cost more than Acetal and also it cost more to produce. This is why the plexi bridges are more expensive than the acetal ones.
Click to expand...

Sorry but I just couldn't disagree more.

Because if that were indeed the case, the the prices of every block would reflect this. In fact the only price difference is with the Copper/Nickel choice and then the price reasonably reflects the extra work/labor hours necessary to manufacture Nickel plated blocks.

I should've been a tad clearer however. The reason I am a bit perplexed is because I am needing a 2 card Paralel bridge. There just is no reason that I can see, as to why the Acetal one costs what it does and the Acrylic is that much more expensive. Especially when I am reasonably certain that the difference in cost on the EK site amounts to little to none.

I get there being a difference/ or necessity of a difference in cost when they are larger, but we're talking about the base entry point/reason there are even bridges to begin with.

As far as I can see there is no justification for a $10+ difference in price.









~Ceadder


----------



## edgy436

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> As far as I can see there is no justification for a $10+ difference in price.


The justification is because they can and people will pay the extra amount for it. EK is a business.


----------



## Frontside

Amazing pictures, *Malik*, Love the colors, composition and lightning


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sorry but I just couldn't disagree more.
> 
> Because if that were indeed the case, the the prices of every block would reflect this. In fact the only price difference is with the Copper/Nickel choice and then the price reasonably reflects the extra work/labor hours necessary to manufacture Nickel plated blocks.
> 
> I should've been a tad clearer however. The reason I am a bit perplexed is because I am needing a 2 card Paralel bridge. There just is no reason that I can see, as to why the Acetal one costs what it does and the Acrylic is that much more expensive. Especially when I am reasonably certain that the difference in cost on the EK site amounts to little to none.
> 
> I get there being a difference/ or necessity of a difference in cost when they are larger, but we're talking about the base entry point/reason there are even bridges to begin with.
> 
> As far as I can see there is no justification for a $10+ difference in price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You can't compare a plexi top from a waterblock and a plexi bridge.

There's pratically no hard work implied in a plexi top except some milling.

The plexi bridge implies more work to be achieved and it's a more fragile material to work with than acetal and this is why this one is more expensive than it's acetal counterpart.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You can't compare a plexi top from a waterblock and a plexi bridge.
> 
> There's pratically no hard work implied in a plexi top except some milling.
> 
> The plexi bridge implies more work to be achieved and it's a more fragile material to work with than acetal and this is why this one is more expensive than it's acetal counterpart.


Yeah exactly, that's what i was trying to say in my earlier post. From what i understand, working with large chunks of acrylic (specifically "thick" ones, whereas the chunks on the waterblocks are thinner) are much tougher to work with and that the extra cost is reflecting the extra labor and possible waste that occurs if a worker or a machine breaks a terminal/bridge due to the fragile nature of the acrylic.

You have to consider as Akira mentioned, the difference in how the two products (waterblock top and terminal/bridge) are manufactured. With waterblock tops you just carve/mill channels into the side of it, essentially the same as if you were taking a knife and carving little grooves/channels into a block of wood. Because you are going to put a big chunk of solid copper (with possible nickel plating ofc) on top of the acrylic chunk, you are able to just go at it from the top of the block carving down into it to make the channels for the water.

However, with a plexi bridge or terminal, there is no water proof chunk of metal going on the back of it, therefore you have to use one solid chunk of acrylic and carve "inside" of this piece. You can no longer just gouge out from the outside and place another chunk over the back to cover it and keep it waterproof. You have to dig into the chunk and carve the channels carefully through the inside of the piece, going exactly through the middle of the chunk without straying too far to one side or the other or too far back/front. And digging through the inside like that is much more abrasive to the acrylic since you're hollowing it out, which is much more likely to damage or destroy the whole chunk.

A good metaphor for this is the difference between being above ground and digging a hole, lets say you have to dig an irrigation ditch. So you dig from the top of ground level down 1 foot, and stretch that 1 foot deep channel for 10 feet straight across and then put a "T" on it by branching off 5 feet in another direction. This is pretty easy to do since you are just scratching out the very top surface of the earths crust. However, if you have to dig this same tunnel "inside" of the ground, it's much harder. So say you dig a 6 foot deep hole and drop down into it, and have a 25 square foot section fenced off with the hole you are standing in right at the edge of that. And you have to dig this same 1 foot diameter, 10 foot long tunnel with a 5 foot "T" branching off "THROUGH" the dirt. Inside of it, rather than just scraping the top section. See how this would be much more difficult? Not only that but it would require entirely different tools to do. The irrigation ditch can be done with only a shovel, but to dig this same cavity inside of a solid piece of earth like the 2nd example you'd need some kind of drilling equipment that is much more expensive to buy and much more expensive to operate. Yes the acetal bridges/terminals would need these tools too, but they are much less likely to break and wouldn't require extra careful timing and planning thus taking less labor and less time to make.


----------



## Ceadderman

I completely understand how these things are made. It's just my experience that there wasn't much if any difference in price for the previous bridges.

Sorry if it seems like I am throwing someone under the bus. That's not my intent at all.

~Ceadder


----------



## Janac

Hello guys, lovely club you have here. I want to share some of my EK stuff on the last pics:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/with/16393409877/

Could anyone comment the pics? Critique is welcome









P.S Malik your photos are so beautiful! You are giving me some motivation to improve in my photography!


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I completely understand how these things are made. It's just my experience that there wasn't much if any difference in price for the previous bridges.
> 
> Sorry if it seems like I am throwing someone under the bus. That's not my intent at all.
> 
> ~Ceadder


So you're saying that the older EK bridges for like HD6000 series, fermi and GK204 keplar etc.. were the same price for plexi and acetal? That's interesting, i guess i wouldn't know as i didn't get into water cooling properly till the 700 series keplar came out. It could very well have something to do with just the actual price of acrylic too. And if you understand the manufacturing process you should realize that acrylic is harder to work with and thus may take more care to craft which in turn means more man hours/time and thus more labor costs. As well as the extra tools it might require.

I don't think anyone believes you're throwing EK under the bus or anything, we're just discussing a somewhat mysterious discrepancy in pricing


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarkIdeals

So does anyone have any kind of rough eta on the KPE block? Or at least some kind of picture of a prototype or something? I'd like to know if it's gonna be one of those super short waterblocks that don't look very good or a more full cover one. I'm trying to decide on whether to go with two EVGA Superclocked GTX 980s with two EK Nickel Original CSQ blocks + standard EK black backplate, or to go for the GTX 980 kingpins and maybe put a couple thermosphere's on them or run them on air till i can get a hold of the KPE waterblock.

Also, anyone got any info on performance increase over the SC model? Or perhaps how much difference it'd make over the standard 980 classy? I don't see much info on the evga classified + kingpin owner club, just a bunch of benchmark junkies posting firestrike score









I wanna see dat bare pcb!!

Dress her up in a block!

That ACX is covering up those glorious size 14+3





















....*ahem*....power phases...excuse me for a moment...


----------



## DarkIdeals

On a side note. looks like they're sold out on evga and newegg, not surprising i suppose. but it just had to sell out right before i could actually get some. Anyone know another place that sells the KPE? no luck on amazon, tigerdirect etc..


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I completely understand how these things are made. It's just my experience that there wasn't much if any difference in price for the previous bridges.
> 
> Sorry if it seems like I am throwing someone under the bus. That's not my intent at all.
> 
> ~Ceadder


First, don't worry I didn't feel you wanted to throw anyone under any bus. You're just asking thing because you're concerned.









If by previous bridge you're talking about the FC-Link system then yes the price difference between the acetal and the plexi version was a bit less significant but there was one. But at the same time, those bridges were smaller in size so less material implied.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> So does anyone have any kind of rough eta on the KPE block? Or at least some kind of picture of a prototype or something? I'd like to know if it's gonna be one of those super short waterblocks that don't look very good or a more full cover one. I'm trying to decide on whether to go with two EVGA Superclocked GTX 980s with two EK Nickel Original CSQ blocks + standard EK black backplate, or to go for the GTX 980 kingpins and maybe put a couple thermosphere's on them or run them on air till i can get a hold of the KPE waterblock.
> 
> Also, anyone got any info on performance increase over the SC model? Or perhaps how much difference it'd make over the standard 980 classy? I don't see much info on the evga classified + kingpin owner club, just a bunch of benchmark junkies posting firestrike score
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanna see dat bare pcb!!
> 
> Dress her up in a block!
> 
> That ACX is covering up those glorious size 14+3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....*ahem*....power phases...excuse me for a moment...


There's absolutely no ETA on the block and certainly no proto pictures. We don't even know if it will be an HydroCopper (made by EK) block sold by EVGA or an EK block sold by our usual channels or even both.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> First, don't worry I didn't feel you wanted to throw anyone under any bus. You're just asking thing because you're concerned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If by previous bridge you're talking about the FC-Link system then yes the price difference between the acetal and the plexi version was a bit less significant but there was one. But at the same time, those bridges were smaller in size so less material implied.
> There's absolutely no ETA on the block and certainly no proto pictures. We don't even know if it will be an HydroCopper (made by EK) block sold by EVGA or an EK block sold by our usual channels or even both.


ugh...i need info....









I'm debating on whether to go with two EVGA Superclocked 980s with the very nice looking original CSQ blocks ( i just LOVE the "true" full cover design and i'm a sucker for csq anyway), or to sacrifice a little bit on the asthetics to get more performance by going for two of the EVGA 980 Classified, since the classy block is still "almost" full coverage, but not as good looking as the CSQ but it has dual 8 pin power which i guess helps the performance (never got a real good answer on that from anyone) as well as having the beefier vrm and 14 phase power etc.. and then the 3rd option being to get two of the full blown EVGA 980 Classified K|ngp|n Editions. Although i'm not sure how much extra gaming performance, as well as benchmarking performance (since i plan to do moderate benching, although gaming is my "main" focus) the KPE will have over the regular SC, and more importantly will it have any significantly better performance over the regular 980 classy at all. Then there's the fact that there's no block out for the KPE yet, and the EK thermosphere doesn't fit the regular classy according to cooling config, so i imagine it won't fit the KPE either, meaning i'd be stuck with the ugly looking VGA supremacy and have to find some kind of vrm/mosfet cooling as well, or just stick with air cooling until EK makes a KPE block, which if the classy is any indication could take months.

Anybody have opinions on this? specifically people who own the GTX980 SC, classy, or KPE? I'd really like to know what the actual performance differences for gaming and benching are between the SC, Classy, and KPE when water cooled. Just can't find any info anywhere on the classy or KPE.


----------



## smicha

Today I've received EK parts for another OctaneRender watercooled workstation for 2x TITAN Z. Watch the build log here
http://www.overclock.net/t/1542879/build-log-watercooled-2x-titan-z-octanerender-workstation-2


----------



## guitarhero23

I'm in! Took me long enough. Real pictures to come once I start a build log.


----------



## Wirerat

I went ahead and ordered a ek Supremacy MX cpu block. I plan to repurpose the Supreme LTX I currently have to an alt rig.

I will run a direct comparison and post the delta here.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> So does anyone have any kind of rough eta on the KPE block? Or at least some kind of picture of a prototype or something? I'd like to know if it's gonna be one of those super short waterblocks that don't look very good or a more full cover one. I'm trying to decide on whether to go with two EVGA Superclocked GTX 980s with two EK Nickel Original CSQ blocks + standard EK black backplate, or to go for the GTX 980 kingpins and maybe put a couple thermosphere's on them or run them on air till i can get a hold of the KPE waterblock.
> 
> Also, anyone got any info on performance increase over the SC model? Or perhaps how much difference it'd make over the standard 980 classy? I don't see much info on the evga classified + kingpin owner club, *just a bunch of benchmark junkies posting firestrike score*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanna see dat bare pcb!!
> 
> Dress her up in a block!
> 
> That ACX is covering up those glorious size 14+3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....*ahem*....power phases...excuse me for a moment...


that's a compliment, right?!!


----------



## akira749

Here's an official message from our CEO Mark Tanko

Dear EKWB Liquid cooling fans,

in last few weeks it has become apparent that FrozenCPU is not operational anymore. The dramatic stories are of no concern to us, we just want to make sure that You, our customers and supporters, continue to have ways to buy our gear and water cool your awesome computers. We valued our partnership with FrozenCPU as they provided good service in USA and abroad, but luckily there are multiple other EKWB partners that you can turn to in this new situation and expect good service.

Please visit one of the following partners:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/
http://www.dazmode.com/
http://www.altex.com/ or http://www.amazon.com/
http://www.ncix.com/

You can also order a system with our watercooling parts at:
http://www.digitalstormonline.com/
http://www.maingear.com/

or shop directly at our web store at http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ (we ship to USA at competitive prices).

Anybody who bought our products at FrozenCPU and has or will have any issues you can contact us directly through our service page (http://www.ekwb.com/support/).

Mark Tanko
EKWB CEO


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Good to know akira749.

I recently ordered directly from EKWB and I'm waiting on my block and back plate. Normally I would have just gone to Performance PCs, but they were out of stock (Frozen CPU shows 13 blocks, but that does no good).

In light of the what happened with FrozenCPU, does this mean that you are working with PPC and other distributors and increasing future shipments to them to alleviate stock issues, or is that up to the distributor?

Just wondering, because there is a ton of "dead stock" just sitting at FCPU.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I'm in! Took me long enough. Real pictures to come once I start a build log.


Welcome









Nice Supremacy Evo, gotta love that CSQ


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> that's a compliment, right?!!


It is indeed









I was just joking about the fact that nobody was posting specific program benchmarks or gaming fps etc.. or showing their cards in the rig etc.. I'm just really stuck between going with SLI EVGA superclocked 980s, regular classified 980s, or K|ngp|n 980s. I'm mostly a gamer, that does some rendering and benchmarking on the side, and i'm getting a little more into benchmarking but it's nothing serious really. So i'm unsure if it would be worth going for K|ngp|n cards when i would have to use a universal waterblock on them or stick to air cooling and hope the KPE block looks decent since i'm a sucker for asthetics.

Overall it linearly scales performance vs looks for me. The worst performing card (evga superclocked 980) is also the best looking due to the "true" full cover csq waterblock, the classified is in the middle, performing better than the superclocked (but i'm unsure of how much, which is why i'm asking for fps scores and whatnot) but also has a less asthetically appealing waterblock that isn't completely full cover and lacks the CSQ "charm", then the best performer, the KPE (yet again, unsure of how much better it performs over the superclocked in gaming and to a degree in benchmarks as well) is the one that has no block yet so i'd have to use air or an ugly universal and it's a risk since even when the block does come out it could be a real short one that isn't much better looking than a universal.

I guess it's just a debate of performance vs looks for me. Except i can't find any info showing the real world framerate differences between the superclocked, classy, and k|ngp|n 980s. I know the "stock" differences are probably miniscule really, but with that higher OC headroom on the classy and especially KPE, i wonder how much more punch they pack. I've actually heard a couple people saying that the KPE would be pointless unless pro benchmark competing since it's barely any better than the regular classy for actual games and rendering etc.. although i'm reasonably sure those people did not own a classy or a KPE so it's tough to say if their words are reliable.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> It is indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I was just joking about the fact that nobody was posting specific program benchmarks or gaming fps etc.. or showing their cards in the rig etc.. I'm just really stuck between going with SLI EVGA superclocked 980s, regular classified 980s, or K|ngp|n 980s. I'm mostly a gamer, that does some rendering and benchmarking on the side, and i'm getting a little more into benchmarking but it's nothing serious really. So i'm unsure if it would be worth going for K|ngp|n cards when i would have to use a universal waterblock on them or stick to air cooling and hope the KPE block looks decent since i'm a sucker for asthetics.
> 
> Overall it linearly scales performance vs looks for me. The worst performing card (evga superclocked 980) is also the best looking due to the "true" full cover csq waterblock, the classified is in the middle, performing better than the superclocked (but i'm unsure of how much, which is why i'm asking for fps scores and whatnot) but also has a less asthetically appealing waterblock that isn't completely full cover and lacks the CSQ "charm", then the best performer, the KPE (yet again, unsure of how much better it performs over the superclocked in gaming and to a degree in benchmarks as well) is the one that has no block yet so i'd have to use air or an ugly universal and it's a risk since even when the block does come out it could be a real short one that isn't much better looking than a universal.
> 
> I guess it's just a debate of performance vs looks for me. Except i can't find any info showing the real world framerate differences between the superclocked, classy, and k|ngp|n 980s. I know the "stock" differences are probably miniscule really, but with that higher OC headroom on the classy and especially KPE, i wonder how much more punch they pack. I've actually heard a couple people saying that the KPE would be pointless unless pro benchmark competing since it's barely any better than the regular classy for actual games and rendering etc.. although i'm reasonably sure those people did not own a classy or a KPE so it's tough to say if their words are reliable.


COuld You Multi Quote or Edit your Post?

TCO

You Kinda make me Crazy.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> COuld You Multi Quote or Edit your Post?
> 
> TCO
> 
> You Kinda make me Crazy.


uhhh....what? Why would i multi-quote when i was only responding to one person?

and no offense but whether i "make someone crazy" on a forum (although that's debatable about the time and cause







) isn't something i'd really put much thought into.

The reason it's confusing to you is probably that you weren't in the kingpin/classy owner forum when i was posting talking to kimir, so it's like an "inside post" if you will.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sorry but I just couldn't disagree more.
> 
> Because if that were indeed the case, the the prices of every block would reflect this. In fact the only price difference is with the Copper/Nickel choice and then the price reasonably reflects the extra work/labor hours necessary to manufacture Nickel plated blocks.
> 
> I should've been a tad clearer however. The reason I am a bit perplexed is because I am needing a 2 card Paralel bridge. There just is no reason that I can see, as to why the Acetal one costs what it does and the Acrylic is that much more expensive. Especially when I am reasonably certain that the difference in cost on the EK site amounts to little to none.
> 
> I get there being a difference/ or necessity of a difference in cost when they are larger, but we're talking about the base entry point/reason there are even bridges to begin with.
> 
> As far as I can see there is no justification for a $10+ difference in price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can't compare a plexi top from a waterblock and a plexi bridge.
> 
> There's pratically no hard work implied in a plexi top except some milling.
> 
> The plexi bridge implies more work to be achieved and *it's a more fragile material to work with than acetal* and this is why this one is more expensive than it's acetal counterpart.
Click to expand...

This.

Acetal/Delrin is a dream material for milling. Plexi is not. Its brittle and will have much higher scrappage rate than Acetal/Delrin.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> uhhh....what? Why would i multi-quote when i was only responding to one person?










I notice that.

And Double post Constantly.

TCO


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Hello guys, lovely club you have here. I want to share some of my EK stuff on the last pics:
> 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/with/16393409877/
> 
> Could anyone comment the pics? Critique is welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S Malik your photos are so beautiful! You are giving me some motivation to improve in my photography!


guys, please, can anyone comment my pics? Thanks!


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> guys, please, can anyone comment my pics? Thanks!


People are less likely to click externally when you can upload them here for easy viewing, just a tip!


----------



## lowfat

Wait, isn't Eddy the CEO?


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> guys, please, can anyone comment my pics? Thanks!


Looks really nice! What do you you as a light source?

Not really a fan of the "Instagram like filter" on this one.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/16277498479/

Which Camera?


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Wait, isn't Eddy the CEO?


EKWB Company info


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Looks really nice! What do you you as a light source?
> 
> Not really a fan of the "Instagram like filter" on this one.
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/16277498479/
> 
> Which Camera?


Thanks








Guess what am I using? a cloudy day! YES! cloudy days are so underrated, beacuse clouds do job similar to diffuser on studio lights, so there is PERFECT light everywhere when clouds are and no shadwos either. You don't need to buy studio lights for a lot of money, if you could just go out, buy a big paper and hang it. Options are like using a glass for reflections and so on...

The camera is just an entry-level m43 Olympus PEN mini, but I just don't find a reason to buy a better one. There's one small problem though, it does suffer from ISO even at 800


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Wait, isn't Eddy the CEO?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EKWB Company info
Click to expand...

Looks like he stepped back to President of the Board. Unless this is a different Edvard.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Wait, isn't Eddy the CEO?


President of the Board: Edvard König
Chief Executive Officer: Mark Tanko


----------



## FrancisJF

so EK stands for Edvard König?


----------



## Razroid

So I was directed here from the Water Cooling club when my Supreme HF started leaking












Any idea where I can get a replacement O ring?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> So I was directed here from the Water Cooling club when my Supreme HF started leaking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea where I can get a replacement O ring?


Frozen cpu would have had it but they are closed maybe use their web site to get the ek number and maybe ppcs has it or can get it from ek


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Frozen cpu would have had it but they are closed maybe use their web site to get the ek number and maybe ppcs has it or can get it from ek


The EK site says:

* This product is not available in the requested quantity. 1 of the items will be backordered. To get availability date please contact our support.

When I try to order a set


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> The EK site says:
> 
> * This product is not available in the requested quantity. 1 of the items will be backordered. To get availability date please contact our support.
> 
> When I try to order a set


Performance pc dont have them???


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> So I was directed here from the Water Cooling club when my Supreme HF started leaking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea where I can get a replacement O ring?


Go to any Harware store...



And bought similar size O'Ring


----------



## Razroid

I can't find it on ppc :/

Can I superglue the O ring back together? I don't think the local hw stores have O rings :/


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> I can't find it on ppc :/
> 
> Can I superglue the O ring back together? I don't think the local hw stores have O rings :/


if you are in Singapore go to Mcmaster Carr or Grainger and they can help you!!

I have worked a lot in Singapore and was always able to find what I needed to repair oil rigs...


----------



## dodgethis

Ubi has a ton of hardware stores. Best is to look before declaring there aren't.


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> I can't find it on ppc :/
> 
> Can I superglue the O ring back together? I don't think the local hw stores have O rings :/


Here in Buenos Aires, Argentina, have to travel more than 50 Km to go to a O'Ring specialist store in Capital Federal.



You you would have to find more...
Today find almost everything in Google.

You want all served on a silver platter?


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dodgethis*
> 
> Ubi has a ton of hardware stores. Best is to look before declaring there aren't.


Well, I live in Punggol, not exactly near to ubi, I was going to try my luck at kelantan lane later in the day as I know there are a ton of hw stores there.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> I can't find it on ppc :/
> 
> Can I superglue the O ring back together? I don't think the local hw stores have O rings :/
> 
> 
> 
> Here in Buenos Aires, Argentina, have to travel more than 50 Km to go to a O'Ring specialist store in Capital Federal.
> 
> 
> 
> You you would have to find more...
> Today find almost everything in Google.
> 
> You want all served on a silver platter?
Click to expand...

I just messed myself.









~Ceadder


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> Well, I live in Punggol, not exactly near to ubi, I was going to try my luck at kelantan lane later in the day as I know there are a ton of hw stores there.


Try Garlin Rubber in Towner Road.

I've bought spares there before.

For the HF you want a 54x2 NBR gasket - give them a call and see if they have it on stock.


----------



## Frontside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess what am I using? a cloudy day! YES! cloudy days are so underrated, beacuse clouds do job similar to diffuser on studio lights, so there is PERFECT light everywhere when clouds are and no shadwos either. You don't need to buy studio lights for a lot of money, if you could just go out, buy a big paper and hang it. Options are like using a glass for reflections and so on...
> 
> The camera is just an entry-level m43 Olympus PEN mini, but I just don't find a reason to buy a better one. There's one small problem though, it does suffer from ISO even at 800


Love the shots. Great colors and composition. Congratulations *Junac*
Most people belivies that you need hi-end DSLR to take good pictures.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Hello guys, lovely club you have here. I want to share some of my EK stuff on the last pics:
> 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/with/16393409877/
> 
> Could anyone comment the pics? Critique is welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S Malik your photos are so beautiful! You are giving me some motivation to improve in my photography!


That's a delightful album!


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Try Garlin Rubber in Towner Road.
> 
> I've bought spares there before.
> 
> For the HF you want a 54x2 NBR gasket - give them a call and see if they have it on stock.


Ah nice, they are along the same MRT line as Punggol.

I actually found some on TaoBao, but I'm not sure if the material will affect anything..


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I notice that.
> 
> And Double post Constantly.
> 
> TCO


Haha, yeah i double post a lot too. Although usually due to the damn comcast internet i have. 60mb/s...it'll be a "blast" they say,


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontside*
> 
> Love the shots. Great colors and composition. Congratulations *Junac*
> Most people belivies that you need hi-end DSLR to take good pictures.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> That's a delightful album!


Thanks guys.

Here's my build log, if anyone is interested: http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood/30

P.S *Junac*


----------



## MrMD

Under what circumstances should i be using the anti vortex foam in an EK-xres D5.

I thought the anti vortex foam was only useful when using vertical in/out configs,which this res cant use?


----------



## Reaper28

Is anyone running acetal blocks with red tubing, interested to see how it looks


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Is anyone running acetal blocks with red tubing, interested to see how it looks


forgive my nubiness but acetal blocks are the black or clear blocks? I have the black GTX 970 block with red primochill advance LRt tubing if that is what you're asking for.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Is anyone running acetal blocks with red tubing, interested to see how it looks


Look in my album, there are one of two photos however only my GPU block was Acetal. Hope this helps.

http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1021955/nzxt-switch-810-wc-completed/


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Is anyone running acetal blocks with red tubing, interested to see how it looks


Check the gallery of this thread, there's tons of pictures from builds with acetal blocks with red tubing.

Here are mine:


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> forgive my nubiness but acetal blocks are the black or clear blocks? I have the black GTX 970 block with red primochill advance LRt tubing if that is what you're asking for.


Nice, got any more pictures?. Yes acetal blocks are the black ones, the clear ones are plexi or csq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Look in my album, there are one of two photos however only my GPU block was Acetal. Hope this helps.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1021955/nzxt-switch-810-wc-completed/


Nice rig, appreciate the pics.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> Check the gallery of this thread, there's tons of pictures from builds with acetal blocks with red tubing.
> 
> Here are mine:


Ha same board I have, perfect. I would check the thread but for some reason when I click on images it just disappears. Got any more pics of your rig? mine will look pretty close to yours when I'm done









EDIT-I have a Phanteks Luxe, would you happen to have any pics with the side panel on as well?. Appreciate it


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Nice, got any more pictures?. Yes acetal blocks are the black ones, the clear ones are plexi or csq
> Nice rig, appreciate the pics.


I'll try to grab some more pics when i get home later. only working off of an S3 camera so bear with me on the quality.

EDIT: the tubing is bloodshed red primochill advance LRT tubing, 7/16 ID 5/8 OD


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> I'll try to grab some more pics when i get home later. only working off of an S3 camera so bear with me on the quality.
> 
> EDIT: the tubing is bloodshed red primochill advance LRT tubing, 7/16 ID 5/8 OD


I have the same board, and same tubing


----------



## Yey09

Anyone knows which online shop still have the EK Supremacy Evo on stock?



FCPU still closed, PPC and Sidewinder dont have them.


----------



## Freaxy

Here's with the side panel on:


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Anyone knows which online shop still have the EK Supremacy Evo on stock?
> 
> 
> 
> FCPU still closed, PPC and Sidewinder dont have them.


EK's own store seems to have them in stock: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/supremacy-evo/ek-supremacy-evo.html


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> EK's own store seems to have them in stock: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/supremacy-evo/ek-supremacy-evo.html


Oh yeah I forgot to put about US sellers only.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Oh yeah I forgot to put about US sellers only.


Take a look at Altex then. They are a new retailer based out of Texas. Prices are a bit higher than everywhere else though!


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Under what circumstances should i be using the anti vortex foam in an EK-xres D5.
> 
> I thought the anti vortex foam was only useful when using vertical in/out configs,which this res cant use?


Bump,getting ready to mount my stuff,need to know if its worth my while adding the foam before i start


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Take a look at Altex then. They are a new retailer based out of Texas. Prices are a bit higher than everywhere else though!


Yeah there is one near where i live and i couldnt believe they have ek stuff lol.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Haha, yeah i double post a lot too. Although usually due to the damn comcast internet i have. 60mb/s...it'll be a "blast" they say,


Wait til they give you the "free upgrade" to 100. Yeah, its fast. Too fast for their own setup apparently. Ever since the switch I get packet loss all day long.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Bump,getting ready to mount my stuff,need to know if its worth my while adding the foam before i start


No you don't need it


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Anyone knows which online shop still have the EK Supremacy Evo on stock?
> 
> 
> 
> FCPU still closed, PPC and Sidewinder dont have them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Oh yeah I forgot to put about US sellers only.


Dazmode in Canada has them in stock and they ship to USA : https://www.dazmode.com/store/


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No you don't need it


Cheers mate


----------



## SteezyTN




----------



## Deano12345

Fittings for these will be here tomorrow. Can't wait


----------



## Radnad

Simple, efficient, priced perfect, and oh so SWEET for my first WC CPU! Dropped my temps by almost 40 degrees, and got another GHz of OC speed! Thank you EKWB!!


----------



## Malik




----------



## XanderTheGoober

Those fittings do look gorgeous.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah they do. CPU fittings should be swapped over with the Red one being where the Black one is though. It's too close to the RAM imo.









~Ceadder


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah they do. CPU fittings should be swapped over with the Red one being where the Black one is though. It's too close to the RAM imo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I concur. little contrast going on. more noticeable if the black is separating red fitting from red ram heat spreader.


----------



## madcat23

what kind of benefits would I get from adding a ram block to my liquid loop? I've seen them and think they look awesome, but around how much overclocking potential can you get vs metal heat spreaders? assuming my ram setup 2X8 sticks


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcat23*
> 
> what kind of benefits would I get from adding a ram block to my liquid loop? I've seen them and think they look awesome, but around how much overclocking potential can you get vs metal heat spreaders? assuming my ram setup 2X8 sticks


ddr3 and even more so ddr4 is already very low voltage. Heat spreaders are already there for looks. If you want to wc your ram for the visual aspect go ahead.

It will not be adding any more performance than the heat spreader does though.


----------



## akira749

Hi everyone!

I have a bad news for some of you. We previously had the 04G-P4-3975 970 SSC and the 04G-P4-3978 FTW+ as compatible GPU for the 970ACX Waterblock but with the detailed pictures of ericleeee30 on the EVGA forum we have to announce that those 2 GPU won't be compatible.









When we created the block, we weren't able to have detailed images of those new PCB from EVGA and our first visual information of them were from reviews of the card from JayzTwoCents.

I'm really extremely sorry about this situation. We will update the CoolingConfigurator to remove those 2 models from the compatibility list. Also, we currently have no plans for a future revision of the block to support those 2 cards.

Thanks and sorry again for the situation


----------



## madcat23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> ddr3 and even more so ddr4 is already very low voltage. Heat spreaders are already there for looks. If you want to wc your ram for the visual aspect go ahead.
> 
> It will not be adding any more performance than the heat spreader does though.


Kinda what I figured thanks man


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Try Garlin Rubber in Towner Road.
> 
> I've bought spares there before.
> 
> For the HF you want a 54x2 NBR gasket - give them a call and see if they have it on stock.


I just called in, they only have 53 and 55, will those work?


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> I just called in, they only have 53 and 55, will those work?


Get one of each and give it a try.

The 53mm can likely be stretched.

At your own risk of course


----------



## SteezyTN

Off topic-
Do you guys think it's worth selling my 6GB 780's (EVGA) and upgrading to a single 980 classified or Kingpin? I'm currently going to school for nursing, and barely have time to game like I used to. I really only game aboit 3-4 hours a week.


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Get one of each and give it a try.
> 
> The 53mm can likely be stretched.
> 
> At your own risk of course


What about other materials?


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> What about other materials?


Just get NBR.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Off topic-
> Do you guys think it's worth selling my 6GB 780's (EVGA) and upgrading to a single 980 classified or Kingpin? I'm currently going to school for nursing, and barely have time to game like I used to. I really only game aboit 3-4 hours a week.


Go AMD(290's are cheaper)!









I keed though, but I honestly would suggest sticking with whatugot. You honestly won't see enough of a performance upgrade vs cost increase. Yes 980 is better but it's doubtful that you'll game enough to notice the benefits and you don't need it for anything more. Than e-peen imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Just get NBR.


Aight, I'll go down and grab a few to try later on in the day


----------



## guitarhero23

Ace
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Off topic-
> Do you guys think it's worth selling my 6GB 780's (EVGA) and upgrading to a single 980 classified or Kingpin? I'm currently going to school for nursing, and barely have time to game like I used to. I really only game aboit 3-4 hours a week.


Play that card for a while, Then get the newest when you have time to game


----------



## Panther Al

I'd stick with the 780 6gb edition for a while as well. Its more than enough for most games that are out, so it should keep you up there for at least another year before it will start feeling its age.


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Take a look at Altex then. They are a new retailer based out of Texas. Prices are a bit higher than everywhere else though!


Altex is way cheaper compared to Dazmode.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


With regards to the red and black fittings. Aside from just adding a twist to the red and black color theme, are you also going to do something like the black represents the "cool water" side and the red represents the "warm water" side?

Just a thought.


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Try Garlin Rubber in Towner Road.
> 
> I've bought spares there before.
> 
> For the HF you want a 54x2 NBR gasket - give them a call and see if they have it on stock.


Update:

They apparently had 54x2 when I eventually got there - eventually because Google Maps lead me in the completely wrong direction.









Anyway, apparently 54 would be internal diameter, not external, leaving this information here in case anybody needs it. :3

Thanks again!


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*


Nice rig, I like all the temp sensors lol


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> 
> I have a bad news for some of you. We previously had the 04G-P4-3975 970 SSC and the 04G-P4-3978 FTW+ as compatible GPU for the 970ACX Waterblock but with the detailed pictures of ericleeee30 on the EVGA forum we have to announce that those 2 GPU won't be compatible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When we created the block, we weren't able to have detailed images of those new PCB from EVGA and our first visual information of them were from reviews of the card from JayzTwoCents.
> 
> I'm really extremely sorry about this situation. We will update the CoolingConfigurator to remove those 2 models from the compatibility list. Also, we currently have no plans for a future revision of the block to support those 2 cards.
> 
> Thanks and sorry again for the situation


The ACX block will still fit on the original 970 FTW though right?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I know I haven't been in the Cooling and Computer Scene to long but am I a fool for never wanting to try Amd Processors or GPUS?

The Cautious One


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I know I haven't been in the Cooling and Computer Scene to long but am I a fool for never wanting to try Amd Processors or GPUS?
> 
> The Cautious One


I love AMD CPU and GPU. Can say I've never build a custom build PC using an Intel processor however. But 10+ years only using AMD CPU's and have never had a reason to switch. GPU's I've done both 550TI back in the day and lately R9 270X and 290X. Both i've had zero issues with. I think if you've never done a AMD CPU build give it a try.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> The ACX block will still fit on the original 970 FTW though right?


yes it does. I got impatient and bought a bitspower acx 970 block for my ftw after the ek acx block didnt come out the first week of February.

Only non ek part in my loop aside from the mcp 350.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> yes it does. I got impatient and bought a bitspower acx 970 block for my ftw after the ek acx block didnt come out the first week of February.
> 
> Only non ek part in my loop aside from the mcp 350.


I'll admit I like the look of the Bitspower blocks, but not impressed with their performance. Luckily EK looks and performs well..


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@akira749

I had to take apart my 750D loop so I could use my 780 as a gpu on my current build. In doing so I drained the loop of EK Pastel Coolant and Had it in like a Koolaid jug you know? Kinda clean. But there was a bluish tint to the coolant... ? Could you explain that?

Btw I put the coolant back in my loop to run for another 6 months. All my parts were perfect and nothing was stained. My Ek Thermosphere In that loop was imaculate.



Ran Distlled water for the test loop of the X99 Platform with the Therm on the 780 and A EK EVO on the 5930K.

TCO


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> I love AMD CPU and GPU. Can say I've never build a custom build PC using an Intel processor however. But 10+ years only using AMD CPU's and have never had a reason to switch. GPU's I've done both 550TI back in the day and lately R9 270X and 290X. Both i've had zero issues with. I think if you've never done a AMD CPU build give it a try.


Honestly if he's already got a good intel rig he'd be disappointed with an AMD CPU. AMD GPU are fine but their CPU's are just rehashed old architecture that is also ANOTHER rehash of even older architecture, which is why they're still 32nm CPU's when intel is at 22nm and moving to 14nm by the end of this year. It makes a difference.

Now there's nothing "wrong" with AMD cpu's, it's just that they don't hold a candle to the high grade intel ones like the I7's. I've done testing, along with several others, that showed an Intel I3 (3340 iirc) having better single thread performance by nearly 20% over the best AMD cpu on the market, the FX 9590 and the 9590 was only marginally ahead in multi-thread performance even though it was competing with a dual core hyper-threaded I3. Call me crazy but when a dual core/quad thread clocked at ~3ghz ties/beats a 5ghz monster that could power a village in africa for a year with it's daily TDP something is off...

Hey Akira, have you used an EK-FC 780 Classy block before? I have a hunch that the 780 classy block will fit the 980 Kingpin card. There's a guy trying to sell 780 classy blocks that he "modified" to fit 980 classy and KPE cards, and i'm honestly thinking that there's no "modding" going on at all and it's just a hoax. Because looking at the coolingconfig pcb photos of the 780 ti classy, 780 ti KPE and 980 classy i see they're virtually identical in screw hole placement and the placement of the waterblocks standoffs. The only thing i noticed when comparing the 780 KPE cards pcb to the 980 classy pcb is that the 980 classy looks a bit less "tall" than the KPE, which i assumed might account for why the 980 classy block isn't compatible with the 980 KPE? If i had a picture of the 980 KPE pcb i'd be able to tell for sure but i'm REALLY thinking the 780 classy block will fit it almost exactly if not perfect.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Hey Akira, have you used an EK-FC 780 Classy block before? I have a hunch that the 780 classy block will fit the 980 Kingpin card. There's a guy trying to sell 780 classy blocks that he "modified" to fit 980 classy and KPE cards, and i'm honestly thinking that there's no "modding" going on at all and it's just a hoax. Because looking at the coolingconfig pcb photos of the 780 ti classy, 780 ti KPE and 980 classy i see they're virtually identical in screw hole placement and the placement of the waterblocks standoffs. The only thing i noticed when comparing the 780 KPE cards pcb to the 980 classy pcb is that the 980 classy looks a bit less "tall" than the KPE, which i assumed might account for why the 980 classy block isn't compatible with the 980 KPE? If i had a picture of the 980 KPE pcb i'd be able to tell for sure but i'm REALLY thinking the 780 classy block will fit it almost exactly if not perfect.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> The ACX block will still fit on the original 970 FTW though right?


Yes









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> I had to take apart my 750D loop so I could use my 780 as a gpu on my current build. In doing so I drained the loop of EK Pastel Coolant and Had it in like a Koolaid jug you know? Kinda clean. But there was a bluish tint to the coolant... ? Could you explain that?
> 
> Btw I put the coolant back in my loop to run for another 6 months. All my parts were perfect and nothing was stained. My Ek Thermosphere In that loop was imaculate.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ran Distlled water for the test loop of the X99 Platform with the Therm on the 780 and A EK EVO on the 5930K.
> 
> TCO


No sorry I don't know why but can you picture it please?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Hey Akira, have you used an EK-FC 780 Classy block before? I have a hunch that the 780 classy block will fit the 980 Kingpin card. There's a guy trying to sell 780 classy blocks that he "modified" to fit 980 classy and KPE cards, and i'm honestly thinking that there's no "modding" going on at all and it's just a hoax. Because looking at the coolingconfig pcb photos of the 780 ti classy, 780 ti KPE and 980 classy i see they're virtually identical in screw hole placement and the placement of the waterblocks standoffs. The only thing i noticed when comparing the 780 KPE cards pcb to the 980 classy pcb is that the 980 classy looks a bit less "tall" than the KPE, which i assumed might account for why the 980 classy block isn't compatible with the 980 KPE? If i had a picture of the 980 KPE pcb i'd be able to tell for sure but i'm REALLY thinking the 780 classy block will fit it almost exactly if not perfect.


No sorry I haven't used them. But I would be very surprised that it would fit.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *No sorry I don't know why but can you picture it please?*
> 
> No sorry I haven't used them. But I would be very surprised that it would fit.


Hmm... I would Have to remove the liquid again. I can just tell you that it was mostly white but with a light blue tint in the container. Once put back into the Loop of course it looks white again. You know come to think of it, It could have been due to an extra amount of Water (or the ratio of Pastel to Distilled is a little off, which I know it is)

The Cautious One


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I'll admit I like the look of the Bitspower blocks, but not impressed with their performance. Luckily EK looks and performs well..


really? My 970 is at 1560mhz 1.26v 8000mhz memory and it never goes above 40c gaming. Its normally at 35c unless its fc4 or bf4 running.

I can stress both cpu and gpu and the gpu temps will hit 45c with the fans at 5v. Performance is definitely not an issue. I dont doubt the ek might be slightly better but im totally happy with it.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Hmm... I would Have to remove the liquid again. I can just tell you that it was mostly white but with a light blue tint in the container. Once put back into the Loop of course it looks white again. You know come to think of it, It could have been due to an extra amount of Water (or the ratio of Pastel to Distilled is a little off, which I know it is)
> 
> The Cautious One


Maybe it was just the container you had it in that has a tiny blueish tint in the plastic


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Maybe it was just the container you had it in that has a tiny blueish tint in the plastic


Im thinking you're right. I was trippin at first when I poured it out. Thinking oh my goodness this is blue!

TCO


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No sorry I don't know why but can you picture it please?
> No sorry I haven't used them. But I would be very surprised that it would fit.


I wonder if he did modify the block to fit the 980 KPE, how he did it exactly. Makes me curious. He's got 980 classy's with the 780 classy block on them as well as 980 KPE with the 780 classy on them. So it's definitely either that A) THe 780 classy block DOES fit it normally or B) He did modify them somehow to make them fit.

The interesting thing is he says the modified block would fit the regular classy's too, which is strange since you said that the 980 classy wouldn't fit the KPE, so i wonder what is different about the 780 classy block that it would fit both the regular classy and the KPE both.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> I wonder if he did modify the block to fit the 980 KPE, how he did it exactly. Makes me curious. He's got 980 classy's with the 780 classy block on them as well as 980 KPE with the 780 classy on them. So it's definitely either that A) THe 780 classy block DOES fit it normally or B) He did modify them somehow to make them fit.
> 
> The interesting thing is he says the modified block would fit the regular classy's too, which is strange since you said that the 980 classy wouldn't fit the KPE, so i wonder what is different about the 780 classy block that it would fit both the regular classy and the KPE both.


There is a difference between fitting, and fitting safely and effectively. The ref 780 blocks fit 780ti's but they aren't listed as compatible either.

Likely all he has done is grind some material away from places where components have moved. That could still leave components not cooled properly, and/or components dangerously close to shorting.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There is a difference between fitting, and fitting safely and effectively. The ref 780 blocks fit 780ti's but they aren't listed as compatible either.
> 
> Likely all he has done is grind some material away from places where components have moved. That could still leave components not cooled properly, and/or components dangerously close to shorting.


Hmm, yeah i suppose so. I just wish i could find the cards in stock somewhere lol. I wouldn't care if i had a waterblock to fit it if i could find a couple of them somewhere. It seems that europe and australia are getting all kinds of them in stock but US only one site even had them and sold out in a few hours both times they got them in stock.


----------



## Caveat

Hello Ladies and Gentlemen,

Im considdering to make the step to watercooling. I recently switched my processor and now my "old" cpu cooler cant handle him that good. Now i was thinking to take the EK-KIT L360.
I have Sapphire R9 290X TRI-X OC 4GB graphics card. I want to watercool this one to because the fans make alot of noise when running on high temps.

Now the question: Is it possible to cool the cpu and the gpu together with a EK-KIT L360 set?

Specs:
Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0
Processor: AMD FX-8350 Eight-Core ~4.3GHz
Memory: 16GB ram
Graphics card: Sapphire R9 290X TRI-X 4GB OC
900W Tagan BZ series

Thanks,
Ronald


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caveat*
> 
> Hello Ladies and Gentlemen,
> 
> Im considdering to make the step to watercooling. I recently switched my processor and now my "old" cpu cooler cant handle him that good. Now i was thinking to take the EK-KIT L360.
> I have Sapphire R9 290X TRI-X OC 4GB graphics card. I want to watercool this one to because the fans make alot of noise when running on high temps.
> 
> Now the question: Is it possible to cool the cpu and the gpu together with a EK-KIT L360 set?
> 
> Specs:
> Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0
> Processor: AMD FX-8350 Eight-Core ~4.3GHz
> Memory: 16GB ram
> Graphics card: Sapphire R9 290X TRI-X 4GB OC
> 900W Tagan BZ series
> 
> Thanks,
> Ronald


I don't think the pump will be enough, it'll be better buying the parts separately.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> I don't think the pump will be enough, it'll be better buying the parts separately.


I agree. I started with the l360 kit and after I expanded to a 2nd rad and gpu block there was not much flow from the 2.2.

Also the Supremacy mx ($50)is better than the Supreme ltx.

Performancepcs has the swiftech mcp 350 pump for only $54. Its got like 6 times the head pressure of the ek 2.2. They also have ek ddc res top for only $29.

I just made the mistake of starting with that kit and ended up buying another pump/res (the one i mentioned) to fix my loop.


----------



## madcat23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caveat*
> 
> Hello Ladies and Gentlemen,
> 
> Im considdering to make the step to watercooling. I recently switched my processor and now my "old" cpu cooler cant handle him that good. Now i was thinking to take the EK-KIT L360.
> I have Sapphire R9 290X TRI-X OC 4GB graphics card. I want to watercool this one to because the fans make alot of noise when running on high temps.
> 
> Now the question: Is it possible to cool the cpu and the gpu together with a EK-KIT L360 set?
> 
> Specs:
> Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0
> Processor: AMD FX-8350 Eight-Core ~4.3GHz
> Memory: 16GB ram
> Graphics card: Sapphire R9 290X TRI-X 4GB OC
> 900W Tagan BZ series
> 
> Thanks,
> Ronald


i'm not sure what pump comes with the L360 but I got the x360 kit and added an extra 240 rad and full mobo block and the pump is doing fine for all that, I don't think it would be a problem







go for it lol


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcat23*
> 
> i'm not sure what pump comes with the L360 but I got the x360 kit and added an extra 240 rad and full mobo block and the pump is doing fine for all that, I don't think it would be a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> go for it lol


the ek 2.2dcp pump comes with it. Mine barely had any flow after adding a gpu block.

My cpu temps were spiking. It was not adequate for 2 rads and 2 blocks. Especially when the Supreme ltx is pretty restrictive compared to supremacy evo itself.

I switched to a mcp 350 with ek res top and its fixed the spikes.

Also a single 360mm will not be enough rad space for 8350 and a 290. Thats like 500 watts. Go for a minimum of two 240mm for those blocks. I would want a 360 and a 240 for those components to have fans turned down.


----------



## Caveat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcat23*
> 
> i'm not sure what pump comes with the L360 but I got the x360 kit and added an extra 240 rad and full mobo block and the pump is doing fine for all that, I don't think it would be a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> go for it lol


The X360 is way more flow. I think the gentlemen above are right. The guy from the webstore already said it would be good enough (thats what every sailesman tells) but if i would go to get in the future another graphics card he advised to buy the x360. But i already had my doubts a bit. Thats why i asked here


----------



## madcat23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caveat*
> 
> The X360 is way more flow. I think the gentlemen above are right. The guy from the webstore already said it would be good enough (thats what every sailesman tells) but if i would go to get in the future another graphics card he advised to buy the x360. But i already had my doubts a bit. Thats why i asked here


ah well if its a weaker pump then no I guess it won't work I thought maybe since they were both 360 kits they'd have a similar pump...yah I highly recommend the x360 kit can't go wrong


----------



## Caveat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcat23*
> 
> ah well if its a weaker pump then no I guess it won't work I thought maybe since they were both 360 kits they'd have a similar pump...yah I highly recommend the x360 kit can't go wrong


The L360 has a pump/reservoir combo. I think the 360 stands for the radiator size.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caveat*
> 
> The L360 has a pump/reservoir combo.


yea its a ek 2.2dcp with res top. I have one at home i just pulled out of my loop last weekend.

You can get a mcp 350 and ek xres top for about $79 at performancepcs and its much stronger. With the head pressure (13ft) of the mcp350 it unlikley to slow down when expanding.

I am going to try and repurpose the 2.2 in a gpu only loop in my sons rig. Still planning his though.


----------



## madcat23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caveat*
> 
> The L360 has a pump/reservoir combo. I think the 360 stands for the radiator size.


yah I know the 360 means the 360 mm rad size but like I said I figured similar size kit similar pump I didn't know it had a weaker one in the l360 kit...for the price difference I just went with the x360 figured I might as well go for the "top" if I was gunna buy a kit lol


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcat23*
> 
> yah I know the 360 means the 360 mm rad size but like I said I figured similar size kit similar pump I didn't know it had a weaker one in the l360 kit...for the price difference I just went with the x360 figured I might as well go for the "top" if I was gunna buy a kit lol


it was a good choice. I wish i would have started there. It would have saved me some cash.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> Update:
> 
> They apparently had 54x2 when I eventually got there - eventually because Google Maps lead me in the completely wrong direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, apparently 54 would be internal diameter, not external, leaving this information here in case anybody needs it. :3
> 
> Thanks again!


No problem, happy to help


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I know I haven't been in the Cooling and Computer Scene to long but am I a fool for never wanting to try Amd Processors or GPUS?
> 
> The Cautious One


Gonna be WC'ing FX 8350(Considering the 9*** series but may hold off for a little headroom) And my 6870s, which are surprisingly still relevant in the Gaming world.








lol

Probably will go Intel for the next build depending on whether or not AMD comes out with a solid DDR4 platform and if the Intel x99 stuff comes down a bit, after this build is complete.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caveat*
> 
> Hello Ladies and Gentlemen,
> 
> Im considdering to make the step to watercooling. I recently switched my processor and now my "old" cpu cooler cant handle him that good. Now i was thinking to take the EK-KIT L360.
> I have Sapphire R9 290X TRI-X OC 4GB graphics card. I want to watercool this one to because the fans make alot of noise when running on high temps.
> 
> Now the question: Is it possible to cool the cpu and the gpu together with a EK-KIT L360 set?
> 
> Specs:
> Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0
> Processor: AMD FX-8350 Eight-Core ~4.3GHz
> Memory: 16GB ram
> Graphics card: Sapphire R9 290X TRI-X 4GB OC
> 900W Tagan BZ series
> 
> Thanks,
> Ronald


I agree, buying seperately is the way to go typically. I know it's more confusing and whatnot but it's worth it overall. Also, the L360 EK kit doesn't come with a waterblock for your graphic card either.

Here's a list of reccomendations i would make

Black Ice Pro III 360mm Radiator ($44 at performance-pcs)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/x-flow-black-ice-pro-iii-high-performance-radiator-black.html

Or if you can fit 140mm fans in your case, there's the Magicool Slim profile 420mm Radiator (3x140mm) for $45 at ppcs

http://www.performance-pcs.com/magicool-slim-profile-3x140mm-radiator-black.html

Both of these are great budget radiators and nearly as good performing as the one in the EK 360 kit, literally only about 5-6% less performance most likely but far cheaper.

As for a pump, a D5 is nice, but not necessary unless you plan to add a 2nd gpu and more rads etc.. what case do you have btw? Depending on how large it is a cylinder or bay res would be more suited.

Either way here's a cylinder and a bay style of good pump/reservoir combos.

Phobya DC-12 400 + Alphacool Light Tower cylinder res ($104)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-dc12-400-12volt-pump-alphacool-lighttower-all-in-one-reservoir-combo.html

XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25 Bay Res with Laing DDC 3.2 Pump ($114)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-acrylic-dual-5-25-reservoir-pump-combo-with-one-laing-ddc.html#Details

Then you would need a CPU block, the new EK MX ones are quite nice, nearly as good as the more expensive top of the line Supremacy EVO blocks actually.

EK Supremacy MX Plexi CPU waterblock ($54)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-supremacy-mx-cpu-waterblock-plexi.html

Then you would need some fittings and tubing, if you're doing one cpu and one gpu with a pump/res combo like i linked you will need 8 fittings.

These Phobya 3/8" x 1/2" compression fittings are cheap at $2.99 each but are still sturdy and shouldn't have problems with leaking

http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-13-10mm-10x1-5mm-compression-fitting-outer-thread-1-4-knurling-black-nickel-plated.html

Tubing-wise i would go with Masterkleer 3/8" x 1/2" tubing personally. You can get 10 feet of it for $10, and it's plasticizer free so no gunking in your loop.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/masterkleer-tubing-pvc-13-10mm-3-8-id-clear-3-3m-10ft-retail-package.html

And last of all you will need some liquid, you can use regular distilled water which is fine as long as you use some anti-algae liquid additive like this

http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-biocide-extreme.html ($8.99)

Or you can put a piece of silver called a kill coil inside of your reservoir which will stop algae ($6.99)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/filling-aids/iandh-silver-killcoils-antimicrobial-999-fine-silver-tubing-reservoir-strip.html

Or if you want color in your fluid rather than clear water you can buy Mayhem's Pastel which is the best coolant imo. Although it's a tad more expensive at about $20 for a liter

So now you have a pump, radiator, reservoir, tubing, fittings, and a cpu block. So everything that would come in the EK L360 Kit but all the parts are about the same or better (especially the pump) all in total this would cost you about $250 + shipping, so it's actually about the same price the EK kit. The one thing i haven't included are fans for your radiator, but i just assume you have some fans laying around? If not then you can get some of these ($7.95 each)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-helix-120mm-9-blade-z-bearing-fan-1800rpm.html

Lastly though, you will need a waterblock for your graphic card, which the EK kit also would not have. The best block in my opinion would be the EK Nickel/plexi one, but i'm not sure about your card. Your card is the regular Sapphire 290X Tri-X with yellow color right? Not the Vapor-x with the blue color? Anyway, here is a link to the EK R9 290X waterblock that will fit the regular yellow colored 290X Tri-X OC card ($127)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-r9-290x-waterblock-nickel-plexi-rev-2-0.html


----------



## Caveat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> I agree, buying seperately is the way to go typically. I know it's more confusing and whatnot but it's worth it overall. Also, the L360 EK kit doesn't come with a waterblock for your graphic card either.
> 
> Here's a list of reccomendations i would make
> 
> Black Ice Pro III 360mm Radiator ($44 at performance-pcs)
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/x-flow-black-ice-pro-iii-high-performance-radiator-black.html
> 
> Or if you can fit 140mm fans in your case, there's the Magicool Slim profile 420mm Radiator (3x140mm) for $45 at ppcs
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/magicool-slim-profile-3x140mm-radiator-black.html
> 
> Both of these are great budget radiators and nearly as good performing as the one in the EK 360 kit, literally only about 5-6% less performance most likely but far cheaper.
> 
> As for a pump, a D5 is nice, but not necessary unless you plan to add a 2nd gpu and more rads etc.. what case do you have btw? Depending on how large it is a cylinder or bay res would be more suited.
> 
> Either way here's a cylinder and a bay style of good pump/reservoir combos.
> 
> Phobya DC-12 400 + Alphacool Light Tower cylinder res ($104)
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-dc12-400-12volt-pump-alphacool-lighttower-all-in-one-reservoir-combo.html
> 
> XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25 Bay Res with Laing DDC 3.2 Pump ($114)
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-acrylic-dual-5-25-reservoir-pump-combo-with-one-laing-ddc.html#Details
> 
> Then you would need a CPU block, the new EK MX ones are quite nice, nearly as good as the more expensive top of the line Supremacy EVO blocks actually.
> 
> EK Supremacy MX Plexi CPU waterblock ($54)
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-supremacy-mx-cpu-waterblock-plexi.html
> 
> Then you would need some fittings and tubing, if you're doing one cpu and one gpu with a pump/res combo like i linked you will need 8 fittings.
> 
> These Phobya 3/8" x 1/2" compression fittings are cheap at $2.99 each but are still sturdy and shouldn't have problems with leaking
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-13-10mm-10x1-5mm-compression-fitting-outer-thread-1-4-knurling-black-nickel-plated.html
> 
> Tubing-wise i would go with Masterkleer 3/8" x 1/2" tubing personally. You can get 10 feet of it for $10, and it's plasticizer free so no gunking in your loop.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/masterkleer-tubing-pvc-13-10mm-3-8-id-clear-3-3m-10ft-retail-package.html
> 
> And last of all you will need some liquid, you can use regular distilled water which is fine as long as you use some anti-algae liquid additive like this
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-biocide-extreme.html ($8.99)
> 
> Or you can put a piece of silver called a kill coil inside of your reservoir which will stop algae ($6.99)
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/filling-aids/iandh-silver-killcoils-antimicrobial-999-fine-silver-tubing-reservoir-strip.html
> 
> Or if you want color in your fluid rather than clear water you can buy Mayhem's Pastel which is the best coolant imo. Although it's a tad more expensive at about $20 for a liter
> 
> So now you have a pump, radiator, reservoir, tubing, fittings, and a cpu block. So everything that would come in the EK L360 Kit but all the parts are about the same or better (especially the pump) all in total this would cost you about $250 + shipping, so it's actually about the same price the EK kit. The one thing i haven't included are fans for your radiator, but i just assume you have some fans laying around? If not then you can get some of these ($7.95 each)
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-helix-120mm-9-blade-z-bearing-fan-1800rpm.html
> 
> Lastly though, you will need a waterblock for your graphic card, which the EK kit also would not have. The best block in my opinion would be the EK Nickel/plexi one, but i'm not sure about your card. Your card is the regular Sapphire 290X Tri-X with yellow color right? Not the Vapor-x with the blue color? Anyway, here is a link to the EK R9 290X waterblock that will fit the regular yellow colored 290X Tri-X OC card ($127)
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-r9-290x-waterblock-nickel-plexi-rev-2-0.html


Ok thnx for the help. Ill go check it out and look for some good things to do. Maybe a good choice to go for a separate system or something. Have to go 2 weeks on the ship im working so i got 2 weeks to figure it out


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> really? My 970 is at 1560mhz 1.26v 8000mhz memory and it never goes above 40c gaming. Its normally at 35c unless its fc4 or bf4 running.
> 
> I can stress both cpu and gpu and the gpu temps will hit 45c with the fans at 5v. Performance is definitely not an issue. I dont doubt the ek might be slightly better but im totally happy with it.


Yeah, I've heard some complaints which lead them to switch to either EK, XSPC etc. due to performance. I'm wasn't really sure about their loop or anything I've just heard some issues that through me off a little

EDIT- Got any pics of your setup?


----------



## Caveat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caveat*
> 
> Ok thnx for the help. Ill go check it out and look for some good things to do. Maybe a good choice to go for a separate system or something. Have to go 2 weeks on the ship im working so i got 2 weeks to figure it out


I have an NZXT Phantom 820 case and yes its the yellow/black one.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Yeah, I've heard some complaints which lead them to switch to either EK, XSPC etc. due to performance. I'm wasn't really sure about their loop or anything I've just heard some issues that through me off a little
> 
> EDIT- Got any pics of your setup?


these are before I swapped the pump. The bitspower block has been great so far though.
Whatever issue they may have had with other blocks are not present on the acx 970 block.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Some led testing with the blocks. I didnt even install lights inside the blocks in the end.


----------



## Feyris

My mom said if i wanted anythinG (shes in germany) so i figured something from EK not available in US but useful. any ideas to what?

See sigrig for current miz


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caveat*
> 
> Ok thnx for the help. Ill go check it out and look for some good things to do. Maybe a good choice to go for a separate system or something. Have to go 2 weeks on the ship im working so i got 2 weeks to figure it out


Ahh, navy? Have a friend that i was helping with his ASVAB in january, and a few family that were navy, it's good work but tough lol.

And yeah, going seperate is almost always better since you can pick out exactly what you want. The whole purpose of kits is for people who are new and confused about what parts to get/scared they'll order the wrong stuff. But that's what forums to help each other like this are for right?


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyris*
> 
> My mom said if i wanted anythinG (shes in germany) so i figured something from EK not available in US but useful. any ideas to what?
> 
> See sigrig for current miz


Well, not sure what isn't available in US specifically, but looking at your sig i would say either

A) A waterblock for your 280X and/or 7970 to go with the 7990 XSPC razor one you have

B) A supremacy MX (these apparently aren't in US yet) for your 4790K (although a supremacy evo would probably be a bit better, but the mx is new tho. #shamelessly trying to get more reviews on the mx cuz too cheap to buy myself)

C) Some more rad space, honestly even a good 360 rad like the RX360 isn't enough to get good temps on three gpu's especially hot AMD cards like the 7970/280X and that monster 7990







And if you plan to add your cpu in by getting like the Supremacy MX or something it's even more important to get more rad space. For quad gpu like you have i'd say at least 480mm of space already, and adding in a cpu would need another 240mm imo, so adding another 360 or at least a thick 240 would be a good idea.


----------



## DeviousAddict

Well I've been watercooled for a while now and i have finally gotten round to overclocking








I've done a PcMark 8 benchmark run http://www.3dmark.com/pcm8hm3/88120 got a score of 4336 is that good?

I didn't get screens of my temps at load, but i can tell you they didn't go over 40'c at load.

These are my idle temps


CPU-Z validation
http://valid.canardpc.com/jxfhhd


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Well, not sure what isn't available in US specifically, but looking at your sig i would say either
> 
> A) A waterblock for your 280X and/or 7970 to go with the 7990 XSPC razor one you have
> 
> B) A supremacy MX (these apparently aren't in US yet) for your 4790K (although a supremacy evo would probably be a bit better, but the mx is new tho. #shamelessly trying to get more reviews on the mx cuz too cheap to buy myself)
> 
> C) Some more rad space, honestly even a good 360 rad like the RX360 isn't enough to get good temps on three gpu's especially hot AMD cards like the 7970/280X and that monster 7990
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if you plan to add your cpu in by getting like the Supremacy MX or something it's even more important to get more rad space. For quad gpu like you have i'd say at least 480mm of space already, and adding in a cpu would need another 240mm imo, so adding another 360 or at least a thick 240 would be a good idea.


supremacy mx is available at performancepcs. I just got mine in today.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> supremacy mx is available at performancepcs. I just got mine in today.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


When did you place your order? Curious because I placed an order yesterday morning and paid for rush processing and it still didn't ship today.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> When did you place your order? Curious because I placed an order yesterday morning and paid for rush processing and it still didn't ship today.


No emails from them??

Check your account it might show shipped their! Everytime i order that ship it late that afternoon!!


----------



## gdubc

Yeah, nothing. Just the initial acknowledgement. Ive logged in and checked and it still shows processing. I used paypal as usual. I kind of expected it to ship within a couple hours like they usually do. Maybe they are swamped with orders with frozen down, idk.

I'm just anxious for my smexy-plexi d5 pwm!!!


----------



## bigporl

Some more goodies should be arriving soon. Wow didnt think it would cost this much, hope the missus isnt a member here.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> When did you place your order? Curious because I placed an order yesterday morning and paid for rush processing and it still didn't ship today.


ordered it monday.

The LTX had a better mounting system. This MX makes you remove the cpu lock down latch and change the back.

I m not certain what the EVO uses. I think its more like the LTX though.

The instructions with the MX do show what pieces to swap out to make it an EVO. I thought the was kinda cool.


----------



## VSG

Yeah, because of the M4 posts on the Supremacy MX by default, you have to change the socket backplate to one that takes in M4 posts. I still don't understand why Intel has different threadings for the enthusiast and mainstream sockets.

With the Evo, you get separate standoffs, sockets and backplates (not actual socket plates) which are socket specific so they are more in line with other blocks/CPU coolers. I will say this though- Supremacy MX on a 4770k is pretty much a Supremacy Evo itself other than installation, and the Supremacy MX installation on x79/x99 is super simple but is slightly outperformed by the Evo with the optimized innards.


----------



## Drifbau5

Okay so I am having a problem with my EK products. From time to time some of my connections start leeching water. It's not a fast leak. Just a slow leaching that's hard to spot most of the time. This is probably the worst it's gotten. Usually I just undo my plugs or fittings and just refit them and it goes away for a while but sometimes comes back.
It mostly happens with the EK plugs on the acetal. Although it once happened with a bitspower rotary on EK acetal.
Am I doing something wrong? Over tightening or under tightening. It's really annoying though.
Here are some pictures. It's hard to see without the right lighting. The plug on the left stated leaking a little also but it's barely visible.
Does anyone else have this issue? Any ideas what's wrong?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah, because of the M4 posts on the Supremacy MX by default, you have to change the socket backplate to one that takes in M4 posts. I still don't understand why Intel has different threadings for the enthusiast and mainstream sockets.
> 
> With the Evo, you get separate standoffs, sockets and backplates (not actual socket plates) which are socket specific so they are more in line with other blocks/CPU coolers. I will say this though- Supremacy MX on a 4770k is pretty much a Supremacy Evo itself other than installation, and the Supremacy MX installation on x79/x99 is super simple but is slightly outperformed by the Evo with the optimized innards.


So far the MX is 4c better than the LTX. Thats comparing x264 load temps on 4790k. I expect it to get better though. it takes a day or two for all the AIR to bleed out everytime I open my loop and refill it.

Does the Evo have mounting like this LTX? Sounds simular.


Spoiler: PICTURE: Spoiler!


----------



## VSG

My Evo review (not an updated version though) is linked below in my sig. Hopefully that helps confirm it.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> My Evo review (not an updated version though) is linked below in my sig. Hopefully that helps confirm it.


thanks. it is the same.


----------



## Feyris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Well, not sure what isn't available in US specifically, but looking at your sig i would say either
> 
> A) A waterblock for your 280X and/or 7970 to go with the 7990 XSPC razor one you have
> 
> B) A supremacy MX (these apparently aren't in US yet) for your 4790K (although a supremacy evo would probably be a bit better, but the mx is new tho. #shamelessly trying to get more reviews on the mx cuz too cheap to buy myself)
> 
> C) Some more rad space, honestly even a good 360 rad like the RX360 isn't enough to get good temps on three gpu's especially hot AMD cards like the 7970/280X and that monster 7990
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if you plan to add your cpu in by getting like the Supremacy MX or something it's even more important to get more rad space. For quad gpu like you have i'd say at least 480mm of space already, and adding in a cpu would need another 240mm imo, so adding another 360 or at least a thick 240 would be a good idea.


Just found out I may be acquiring a 295X2 Set to replace this quad. At the moment tempwise though will all fans down to 5v i have 47c load sitting in a game for a whole day on gpu~!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> Okay so I am having a problem with my EK products. From time to time some of my connections start leeching water. It's not a fast leak. Just a slow leaching that's hard to spot most of the time. This is probably the worst it's gotten. Usually I just undo my plugs or fittings and just refit them and it goes away for a while but sometimes comes back.
> It mostly happens with the EK plugs on the acetal. Although it once happened with a bitspower rotary on EK acetal.
> Am I doing something wrong? Over tightening or under tightening. It's really annoying though.
> Here are some pictures. It's hard to see without the right lighting. The plug on the left stated leaking a little also but it's barely visible.
> Does anyone else have this issue? Any ideas what's wrong?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Do the o-rings are correctly in place?


----------



## Drifbau5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Do the o-rings are correctly in place?


Yeah they are there. I don't know what they look like after i tighten them but they are there. I just flipped them around to see if it would stop. I thought about getting new O rings but figured it's best to use the ones that came with my block.


----------



## Yey09

Supremacy EVO or Supremacy MX?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Supremacy EVO or Supremacy MX?


if you are on lga 1150 save some cash and get the MX.
Performance is the same.

On X79/x99 the evo is a little better.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I will say this though. The MX uses a different mounting system. It replaces the latch back on lga1150. It was a different approach but works fine.


----------



## Caveat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Ahh, navy? Have a friend that i was helping with his ASVAB in january, and a few family that were navy, it's good work but tough lol.
> 
> And yeah, going seperate is almost always better since you can pick out exactly what you want. The whole purpose of kits is for people who are new and confused about what parts to get/scared they'll order the wrong stuff. But that's what forums to help each other like this are for right?


I just work on an inland vessel









This one is in my mind lately: http://www.highflow.nl/watercooling-sets/cpu-sets/xspc-raystorm-d5-photon-ax360-watercooling-kit.html

1200 l/h pump. Thought this would be nice to do the work.


----------



## GySgtHartman404




----------



## Domiro

http://www.ekwb.com/news/573/19/EK-expands-the-Fitting-line-up-with-new-EK-AF-and-HFB-Fittings/

Insert mandatory "First!!11!!"


----------



## theirlaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/573/19/EK-expands-the-Fitting-line-up-with-new-EK-AF-and-HFB-Fittings/
> 
> Insert mandatory "First!!11!!"


Goddamn finally. I never liked having an all EK build only to have to resort to specialty Bitspower fittings.


----------



## seross69

Still need rotary 90's, 60's, 45's and 30's


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Still need rotary 90's, 60's, 45's and 30's


They recently launched the new AF series of 90's and 45's, rotaries:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings/adapter-fittings.html


----------



## andyv

does the anti-vortex foam insert have a lifespan? I ask because cleaning out my res, I touched it and it disintegrated. I have decided not to use it anymore incase it flakes off in my system (which I think it may have , as I found little black bits when cleaning everything.)


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> They recently launched the new AF series of 90's and 45's, rotaries:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings/adapter-fittings.html


thanks I must have missed this, nice looking fittings at half the price of you know who!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> does the anti-vortex foam insert have a lifespan? I ask because cleaning out my res, I touched it and it disintegrated. I have decided not to use it anymore incase it flakes off in my system (which I think it may have , as I found little black bits when cleaning everything.)


Curious. What coolant were you using? Is your rig in direct sunlight?


----------



## andyv

I was using Distilled with Mayhems Dye and Biocide. It is not in direct sunlight at all. It was fine (same coolant etc) when I checked last (about 4 months)


----------



## Ceadderman

Still have to buy BP if you need a Rotary T, Shutoff Valve, end Cap to match... Lots of other fittings as well. I'm happy, don't get me wrong, but you would think that if they can come up with those awesomesauce 45s and 90s in rotary they could followup quickly with a 180 T fitting and likewise with similar other fittings.









Would like to see something to compete with Monsoon's Hardline Fittings that allow Acrylic tubing to be locked into the fitting. I would be all over those. Like. My chaingun fittings but would Love to go all EK.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Still have to buy BP if you need a Rotary T, Shutoff Valve, end Cap to match... Lots of other fittings as well. I'm happy, don't get me wrong, but you would think that if they can come up with those awesomesauce 45s and 90s in rotary they could followup quickly with a 180 T fitting and likewise with similar other fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would like to see something to compete with Monsoon's Hardline Fittings that allow Acrylic tubing to be locked into the fitting. I would be all over those. Like. My chaingun fittings but would Love to go all EK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The shutoff valves are coming the others I don't know yet









By locking do you mean there gluing thing process???

The EK-HDC fittings are pretty good with 2 o-rings to secure the tube. I would have to use significant force to remove a tube out of it's socket.


----------



## MrMD

Just built my 1st loop,wanna double check my temperatures are about where they should be.

Got a D5 vario/xres(at 1 of 5 setting) a 240mm rad and Supremecy Evo on my 4670k.At stock speeds in x264/realbench my cores are hitting about 45c.I know theirs a lot of factors(ambient ect) for temp but this is about what i should be getting isnt it?

With only a small low restriction loop i know their is no need for the higher speed settings on the D5,is their even any point setting it to step 2 or 3?

Heres a little pic actually,obviously i need to tidy up all my cables ect,but im well chuffed so far. Pump is in the back side, with loop order being pump/res>rad>block>pump/res


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Just built my 1st loop,wanna double check my temperatures are about where they should be.
> 
> Got a D5 vario/xres(at 1 of 5 setting) a 240mm rad and Supremecy Evo on my 4670k.At stock speeds in x264/realbench my cores are hitting about 45c.I know theirs a lot of factors(ambient ect) for temp but this is about what i should be getting isnt it?
> 
> With only a small low restriction loop i know their is no need for the higher speed settings on the D5,is their even any point setting it to step 2 or 3?
> 
> Heres a little pic actually,obviously i need to tidy up all my cables ect,but im well chuffed so far. Pump is in the back side, with loop order being pump/res>rad>block>pump/res
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those are good temps. I would run the pump on 1 if that's all that is required. As you expand the loop you will probably end up on 2 or 3. Many D5 users only run it at 2 or 3 even with more than one gpu in the loop.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Many D5 users only run it at 2 or 3 even with more than one gpu in the loop.


Truth. I was doing an initial sink wash after an algae infection, and I was impressed to see that the d5 on 5 pumps water faster than the kitchen sink can dump it. No reason to run on 5 that I can imagine.


----------



## King4x4

I am running my Hydra 2 system with 4 Quad GPUs and a CPU and loads of 480 Thick rads with the D5 set to 3.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> I am running my Hydra 2 system with 4 Quad GPUs and a CPU and loads of 480 Thick rads with the D5 set to 3.


exactly my point


----------



## Ceadderman

Yuppers.









I think the EK Hardline fittings but tbh using just Orings to lock in my tubing scares the bejeezus out of me. Then to top that off I will soon have a newborn/future toddler running around... Would love to see EK Hardline fittings that cater to those of us who like the security of the Monsoon HL system. I know they also have something similar to what EK has but security is my number 1 concern. I've come a long way from clampless tubes on barbs.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yuppers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the EK Hardline fittings but tbh using just Orings to lock in my tubing scares the bejeezus out of me. Then to top that off I will soon have a newborn/future toddler running around... Would love to see EK Hardline fittings that cater to those of us who like the security of the Monsoon HL system. I know they also have something similar to what EK has but security is my number 1 concern. I've come a long way from clampless tubes on barbs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


They dont just pop out,when you have made your loop,you will understand this.

As for your child,do you have a habit of leaving electrical items open and live within reach of children?


----------



## Ceadderman

Oh I understand they don't just pop out.









As far a electrical appliances and small children... We have a teenager currently and I've never had children myself. Although I've been around toddlers. I can tell you from experience not to put anything past them...

"Oooooh paretty" are words I will make sure to pay attention to. Right now we're in a 2 Bdrm. I'm gonna look for a 4bdrm so I can have my Mancave. Although a shop/garage would be more my speed.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

So i just setup a test loop using the EK 2.2dcp pump with a ek gtx 580 block and ek supreme ltx only in the loop.

There are big swirls in the resivior. That pump was not performing like that in my loop.

Makes me think there was another issue. Possibly air trapped that it was too weak too push out at the lowest point in the loop.

Judging from the flowrate i just seen i may have miss judged the multi block effectivness of the 2.2.

Going to wc my big phat fermi sig rig and give the litte pump another try. This time im going to mount it a lot closer to the highest point.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yuppers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the EK Hardline fittings but tbh using just Orings to lock in my tubing scares the bejeezus out of me. Then to top that off I will soon have a newborn/future toddler running around... Would love to see EK Hardline fittings that cater to those of us who like the security of the Monsoon HL system. I know they also have something similar to what EK has but security is my number 1 concern. I've come a long way from clampless tubes on barbs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I would say the Monsoon's are way overkill unless you are constantly moving or transporting your rig around. When I put my first tube on an EK CSQ compression fitting and did a pull test I could not pull it off, the tube would have ripped before it came loose from the fitting.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yuppers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the EK Hardline fittings but tbh using just Orings to lock in my tubing scares the bejeezus out of me. Then to top that off I will soon have a newborn/future toddler running around... Would love to see EK Hardline fittings that cater to those of us who like the security of the Monsoon HL system. I know they also have something similar to what EK has but security is my number 1 concern. I've come a long way from clampless tubes on barbs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would say the Monsoon's are way overkill unless you are constantly moving or transporting your rig around. When I put my first tube on an EK CSQ compression fitting and did a pull test I could not pull it off, the tube would have ripped before it came loose from the fitting.
Click to expand...

This mod will be going to PDXLAN in July and I live in an upstairs apartment. So yeah.









I plan to take it around a bit.









~Ceadder


----------



## bigporl

Anybody have a link for the ek vulture mod off build? I have four out of eight so far.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> Anybody have a link for the ek vulture mod off build? I have four out of eight so far.


Not everybody have start their build logs yet









You should be able to see the other ones soon


----------



## szeged

Any ETA on the 980 kingpin waterblocks? also when youre done making them go ahead and send blocks my way please









Also, i havent kept up with the vardar fans, are the 1800 rpm vardars comparable to ap-15s?

build im planning is all EK components and if i can do EK fans as well that would be great


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Any ETA on the 980 kingpin waterblocks? also when youre done making them go ahead and send blocks my way please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, i havent kept up with the vardar fans, are the 1800 rpm vardars comparable to ap-15s?
> 
> build im planning is all EK components and if i can do EK fans as well that would be great


I just ordered some Vardar FF5 (3000Rpm) because there all black and only cost a dollar more, when I get them I can turn them down to about 1850Rpm and see if they sound about the same, used to own AP15s but performance wise from the few benchs I seen , they seem to be on par with the AP15s


----------



## Rahldrac

Is this the dreaded plasticizer? Not sure if you see it on the picture but it's several white lines (different water levels).
The weird thing is that the tubes seem okay, and it does not seem to affect the plexi blocks or bridge I have. Ideas?
I was running Aquacomputer DP ultra clear.



Sorry for the bad picture


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Is this the dreaded plasticizer? Not sure if you see it on the picture but it's several white lines (different water levels).
> The weird thing is that the tubes seem okay, and it does not seem to affect the plexi blocks or bridge I have. Ideas?
> I was running Aquacomputer DP ultra clear.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the bad picture


Odds are, yes.

Personally, I'd just wash that out real good, then get a couple soft cloths and some Meguiar's PlastX polish and that will clean up real good.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Is this the dreaded plasticizer? Not sure if you see it on the picture but it's several white lines (different water levels).
> The weird thing is that the tubes seem okay, and it does not seem to affect the plexi blocks or bridge I have. Ideas?
> I was running Aquacomputer DP ultra clear.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the bad picture


I don't think so...

My water tanks look the same way when I tear the system down...

But then, what do I know?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> I don't think so...
> 
> My water tanks look the same way when I tear the system down...
> 
> But then, what do I know?


I think that will clean up.


----------



## Rahldrac

Just wondered, since I have never actually seen plasticizer.
I will anyway change to a bigger reservoir now (X3 250mm), and I have a few question.

First of:
Is there a black model of this: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-bottom-white.html . I can not find it anywhere on their site?

And I see this is being mentioned as "reservoir mount". But is it strong enough to hold a large res filled with liquid?


----------



## Roxycon

EK, you should revise this, OR first then pump body


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Always a good day when toys from Slovenia (by way of Performance PC) show up ...



The new water block and back plate from EKWB just came in.



The EK-FC980 GTX in nickel and plexi (CQS clean). So sexy!



The EK-FC980 GTX Backplate (nickel). Looks awesome stock, but I wonder if I can clean up those swirls a bit better and make it like a mirror.


----------



## VSG

lol you mean Slovenia?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol you mean Slovenia?


Po-ta-to, po-tat-o.









Yes. Sorry.


----------



## andyv

Is the O-Ring from the X-RES 140 D5 kit the same as the O-Ring from the D5 Pumptop?

EDIT: Just used google myself and figured out that it is the same size (61 X 3)


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> EK, you should revise this, OR first then pump body


i agree actually,i just assembled one of these for my first loop last week,when i checked the instructions i was positive what it showed was wrong,went online to double check and watched the official EKWB D5/res assembly vid


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Just wondered, since I have never actually seen plasticizer.
> I will anyway change to a bigger reservoir now (X3 250mm), and I have a few question.
> 
> First of:
> Is there a black model of this: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-bottom-white.html . I can not find it anywhere on their site?
> 
> And I see this is being mentioned as "reservoir mount". But is it strong enough to hold a large res filled with liquid?


R.E. your Q: about Res clamps...

Yes they are strong enough. What you do not see is the Allen head screws that are used to lock your Res in. I have those clamps and they're just fine. Although the ones I wanted were either no longer in production or were out of stock, someone decided to send these instead. I decided they weren't worth the shipping cost to echange them so I didn't even contact the vendor about the issue. Still they work just fine albeit not the ones that I wanted.









~Ceadder


----------



## theirlaw

I have a feeling that I'll get the same response as the last time that I posed this question, but beyond the addition of the new fittings, will there be EK variants of a mini-valve and splitter fittings?


----------



## SteezyTN

I'm watching JayzTwoCents EK Vardar fan review on YouTube, and all I can say is that I found my fan. I'm officially going to drop the crappy xspc fans.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I'm watching JayzTwoCents EK Vardar fan review on YouTube, and all I can say is that I found my fan. I'm officially going to drop the crappy xspc fans.


I am running a bunch of the 18650s and they move some dang air, and still get quiet when you want them to.

Goid choice.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I am running a bunch of the *18650s* and they move some dang air, and still get quiet when you want them to.
> 
> Goid choice.


Too much battery talk


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Is there a black model of this: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-bottom-white.html . I can not find it anywhere on their site?


Seems it's not separately available, you have to buy the whole reservoir. Which you were buying anyway, right?

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoirs/ek-res-x3-series/ek-res-x3-250.html

It also includes the holders.


----------



## DuraN1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Any ETA on the 980 kingpin waterblocks? also when youre done making them go ahead and send blocks my way please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, i havent kept up with the vardar fans, are the 1800 rpm vardars comparable to ap-15s?
> 
> build im planning is all EK components and if i can do EK fans as well that would be great


Also wondering about this. Got blocks for the 980 Classy in stock today, beautiful!


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I am running a bunch of the 18650s and they move some dang air, and still get quiet when you want them to.
> 
> Goid choice.


18650 RPM dear god the noise!!. I'm going to see how my SP's perform pushing through my rad in my case but chances are I'll be getting some 1850 or 2200's


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I'm watching JayzTwoCents EK Vardar fan review on YouTube, and all I can say is that I found my fan. I'm officially going to drop the crappy xspc fans.


If only they came in colored/LED variants, i'd have found my eternal fan manufacturer....sigh

Till then i'm ordering four Aerocool Dead Silence white LED 120's for my top 480 rad to light up the case and just give general bling factor to the rig.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I am running a bunch of the *18650s* and they move some dang air, and still get quiet when you want them to.
> 
> Goid choice.
> 
> 
> 
> Too much battery talk
Click to expand...











caught me!

1850^ and they are pretty quiet at ~1000 RPMs, still audible, but within the same realm of my D5.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Always a good day when toys from Slovenia (by way of Performance PC) show up ...
> 
> 
> 
> The new water block and back plate from EKWB just came in.
> 
> 
> 
> The EK-FC980 GTX in nickel and plexi (CQS clean). So sexy!
> 
> 
> 
> The EK-FC980 GTX Backplate (nickel). Looks awesome stock, but I wonder if I can clean up those swirls a bit better and make it like a mirror.


I was thinking about getting some of those nickel backplates and polishing them myself too.

Let us know how that works out.


----------



## Rahldrac

Got myself 4x1860, looking forward to see how much air they push at minimum!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> 18650 RPM dear god the noise!!. I'm going to see how my SP's perform pushing through my rad in my case but chances are I'll be getting some 1850 or 2200's


If you watched JayzTwoCents youtube video, the 1860's are actually pretty quiet.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> If you watched JayzTwoCents youtube video, the 1860's are actually pretty quiet.


I did watch it, they seem pretty good. The only thing I'm not a fan of (no pun intended) is the bearing noise compared to the SP120's. I'm sure the EK's perform better as I'm not satisfied with the SP's but I do like the bearing noise of the SP's, Also I was only joking with him ^ about it being 18,650 RPM


----------



## marshymellows

Will there ever be a female verison of the hardline fittings? I want to be able to connect fittings to the male side of your angled fittings.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> If you watched JayzTwoCents youtube video, the 1860's are actually pretty quiet.
> 
> 
> 
> I did watch it, they seem pretty good. The only thing I'm not a fan of (no pun intended) is the bearing noise compared to the SP120's. I'm sure the EK's perform better as I'm not satisfied with the SP's but I do like the bearing noise of the SP's, Also I was only joking with him ^ about it being 18,650 RPM
Click to expand...

The motor noise on the SP120s is the worst I have heard oddly enough


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> The motor noise on the SP120s is the worst I have heard oddly enough


Yall can hear a fan bearing....









What is wrong with my Hearing...

TCO


----------



## Reaper28

@Alex132, hmm maybe I got lucky with a set of quieter ones not sure. At least at 12v they sounded fairly decent. I am still not impressed with performance so once I mount my rad I'll see how much air they are actually pushing and if I'm happy with it

@TheCautiousOne lol


----------



## Alex132

To me I can hear the motor rather easily, and they barely push any air at all.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> To me I can hear the motor rather easily, and they barely push any air at all.


Wow.







I am still trying to imagine this. I have 7 in my rig?

Maybe I stood next to the airplanes too long in the Military.

TCO


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> To me I can hear the motor rather easily, and they barely push any air at all.
> 
> 
> 
> Wow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am still trying to imagine this. I have 7 in my rig?
> 
> Maybe I stood next to the airplanes too long in the Military.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

SP120 Quiets?

I'll be honest, they are quieter than I thought they'd be. But the Cougar Vortex's at their ~800-900RPM are much quieter for me and move more air.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> SP120 Quiets?
> 
> I'll be honest, they are quieter than I thought they'd be. But the Cougar Vortex's at their ~800-900RPM are much quieter for me and move more air.


Yea I run them at 1100rpm (Sp 120mm) from a lamptron Fan controller and cant hear a thing. Maybe I am hearing the bearings move when I start it up though.



TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Looks awesome stock, but I wonder if I can clean up those swirls a bit better and make it like a mirror.


THe swirls won't polish out because its machined into the metal. The nickel plating is very thin so you are more likely to go through the plating then anything.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> THe swirls won't polish out because its machined into the metal. The nickel plating is very thin so you are more likely to go through the plating then anything.


Yeah, that is what I found.

No way to polish it out.

Still looks great. Much better than a "boring black", and even with the light swirls in the metal, it is still pretty reflective ... as you might be able to tell in the picture where you can see the water block box behind it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Yeah, that is what I found.
> 
> No way to polish it out.
> 
> Still looks great. Much better than a "boring black", and even with the light swirls in the metal, it is still pretty reflective ... as you might be able to tell in the picture where you can see the water block box behind it.


So You ended up getting um eh?

Glad you like. Lowfat says to use autosol on them but I think they are fine stock.

TCO


----------



## Panther Al

So... When can we hope to see Titan X blocks?


----------



## Reaper28

My SP's were high performance, the low speed's wouldn't be able to push air through my Nemesis rads pretty much like the NF-F12's struggle too.

I have a 120mm Cougar, honestly that noise from that fan drove me insane, to be it seemed louder than the other 4 fans combined in my case I haven't tried it on my rad though


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> My SP's were high performance, the low speed's wouldn't be able to push air through my Nemesis rads pretty much like the NF-F12's struggle too.
> 
> I have a 120mm Cougar, honestly that noise from that fan drove me insane, to be it seemed louder than the other 4 fans combined in my case I haven't tried it on my rad though


Cougars at 1500rpm are loud, at ~800-1000rpm is the sweet spot for them IMO


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Cougars at 1500rpm are loud, at ~800-1000rpm is the sweet spot for them IMO


I've got mine as a side intake on pwm now, usually about 1100-1200rpm


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> So... When can we hope to see Titan X blocks?


Considering we don't have a release date, probably quite some time.

*EDIT* If they have given a release date with the teaser, blocks won't be out for a bit after.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Cougars at 1500rpm are loud, at ~800-1000rpm is the sweet spot for them IMO
> 
> 
> 
> I've got mine as a side intake on pwm now, usually about 1100-1200rpm
Click to expand...

Try set it to 7v / 800-900rpm


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theirlaw*
> 
> I have a feeling that I'll get the same response as the last time that I posed this question, but beyond the addition of the new fittings, will there be EK variants of a mini-valve and splitter fittings?


The valve is coming soon. For the splitter I don't know but I've mention that it would be a nice addition.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Will there ever be a female verison of the hardline fittings? I want to be able to connect fittings to the male side of your angled fittings.


I'm not sure we will have that sorry.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> So... When can we hope to see Titan X blocks?


Should be available tomorrow................


----------



## theirlaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The valve is coming soon. For the splitter I don't know but I've mention that it would be a nice addition.


Satisfactory answer









I just don't want any Bitspower in my next build.


----------



## szeged

any update on kingpin blocks akira?

Titan X announced and i still dont have any full cover blocks for my non ref pcb cards


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> any update on kingpin blocks akira?
> 
> Titan X announced and i still dont have any full cover blocks for my non ref pcb cards


Ooops I just realized that I forgot to answer you earlier.

We still have no ETA on the KPE block. It's a team work between EVGA and EK so I don't have any info for now.

Titan X are announce but they aren't released so we don't even talk about block production here


----------



## szeged

wait you mean to tell me that insanely vague facebook and twitter posts from nvidia about a new product doesnt mean we wont get them in our hands by the following morning?

well aint that a shocker


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Yeah, that is what I found.
> 
> No way to polish it out.
> 
> Still looks great. Much better than a "boring black", and even with the light swirls in the metal, it is still pretty reflective ... as you might be able to tell in the picture where you can see the water block box behind it.


Yeah, if they would have been out when i was purchasing parts I probably would have purchased them and modified them a bit.


----------



## T0B5T3R

System - Black Shadow

CPU block - EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal + Nickel
2x GPU blocks - FC980 GTX - Acetal + Nickel
2x GPU backplates - FC980 - Black
GPU Bridge - EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel
Res - EK-RES 150 - Black
Fitting - EK-ACF - Black
Coolant - EK-Ekoolant EVO Blood RED

System - Black Widow

CPU block - EK-Supreme HF - Acetal + Nickel
GPU blocks - FC580 GTX - Acetal + Nickel
GPU backplates - FC580 - Black
Res - EK-RES 150 - Black
Fitting - EK-ACF - Black
Coolant - EK-Ekoolant EVO Blood RED


----------



## MrMD

I use a one of the 120mm Cougar vortex HP pwm fans on my rad with an noctua F12pwm.They both have the exact same sound levels imo,if anything the noctua is slightly more noticeable due to the low hum it emits at max rpm's

Both are silent sub 1000rpm tho.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I'm not sure we will have that sorry.


What about something like theese?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> wait you mean to tell me that insanely vague facebook and twitter posts from nvidia about a new product doesnt mean we wont get them in our hands by the following morning?
> 
> well aint that a shocker












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> What about something like theese?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not sure about those too.


----------



## Qu1ckset

*Got my EKWB Vardar FF5*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Wasn't impressed at all with these fans. with PWM the lowest i could get these was 40% 1600Rpms which was terribly loud, much much louder then AP15s at max 1850Rpms. ive ripped the fans out of system within 5mins of testing, i will admit they push i ton of air, but for my idling pc use or web browsing it wasn't quiet enough, i think the EK Vardar F1 and F2 would be the sweet spot for me but its a no buy because i don't want a black and grey fan.

My second complate as you can see in the pic below, the sleeving doesn't cover the wires and the mobo header and then you can see the ugly coloured wires, they should ditch the red sleeving and go with a all black wires like corsair on my AF120 LED edition.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








That being said im going to look into Dazmode's DarkSide Gentle Typhoon Fans that are going up for Preorder in May or try a different fan.


----------



## VSG

The specs say the duty cycle is 40-100% though, so I am not sure why you got them expecting otherwise?

Edit: I also just noticed you are using this as a case fan. While I am not sure why this is, static pressure optimized radiator fans don't really have the same noise profile mounted on a heatsink or as a case fan as compared to when it is on a radiator.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> That being said im going to look into Dazmode's DarkSide Gentle Typhoon Fans that are going up for Preorder in May or try a different fan.


Just looked those up... did Dazmode do what CoolerGuys did and buy a pallet of the GT fans? They look excellent though.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The specs say the duty cycle is 40-100% though, so I am not sure why you got them expecting otherwise?


i know what the duty cycle was on the fan that's not what im complaining about, @1600Rpms its much louder to me then the [email protected] For my application this fan doesn't work for me, id wish it was a bit quieter. Performance of the actual air pressure moved is amazing tho, i give the fan that.

Hope EK brings out all black for the rest of the lineup!


----------



## VSG

Well I edited that post above, but perhaps look into a good airflow optimized fan maxing at about 1200 RPM or so? SP fans maxing out at 3000 RPM used as a case exhaust fan is not a great idea.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Just looked those up... did Dazmode do what CoolerGuys did and buy a pallet of the GT fans? They look excellent though.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


no idea but im defiantly not missing out!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well I edited that post above, but perhaps look into a good airflow optimized fan maxing at about 1200 RPM or so? SP fans maxing out at 3000 RPM used as a case exhaust fan is not a great idea.


I was testing the fan to see how loud they were, im not using the fan as exhaust fan, i will be grabbing a 120mm AIO, just waiting on a release, hence why i have a AF120 for now...


----------



## akira749

A very nice review of our new EK-Supremacy MX CPU Block is up HERE


----------



## Pheozero

So two questions. Any chance of the other Vardars getting a second SKU that's colored black like the FFS? And second, any plans for dual 90° acrylic adapters like these?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22685/ex-tub-2601/Bitspower_Enhanced_Dual_90-Degree_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_Black_Sparkle_BP-BSE90DML.html?tl=g30c703s2266


----------



## bigporl

It has begun


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The specs say the duty cycle is 40-100% though, so I am not sure why you got them expecting otherwise?
> 
> Edit*: I also just noticed you are using this as a case fan.* *While I am not sure why this is,* static pressure optimized radiator fans don't really have the same noise profile mounted on a heatsink or as a case fan as compared to when it is on a radiator.












Thank you VSG. For doing that for me.

TCO
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> It has begun
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Don't forget to take the blue Protective stickers off of the EK blocks.


----------



## szeged

why is the rampage V monoblock almost $200









any performance numbers of the rampage monoblock vs a supremacy+non monoblock waterblocks ?


----------



## Squeaks5635

Does anyone know why there is a max fill line on a bay res. I was filling my res back up since it was a tad below the minimum, and I decided to fill it all the way up. You can no longer see any empty space in the bay res from the front.

This is what it usually looks like.



Now it looks like this



Is there a problem with this? I can't really think of one.

Thanks,

JT


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Does anyone know why there is a max fill line on a bay res. I was filling my res back up since it was a tad below the minimum, and I decided to fill it all the way up. You can no longer see any empty space in the bay res from the front.
> 
> This is what it usually looks like.
> 
> 
> 
> Now it looks like this
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a problem with this? I can't really think of one.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> JT


It could be for an overflow issue or also for air in the res, that's all I can think of


----------



## TheCautiousOne

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know why there is a max fill line on a bay res. I was filling my res back up since it was a tad below the minimum, and I decided to fill it all the way up. You can no longer see any empty space in the bay res from the front.
> 
> This is what it usually looks like.
> 
> 
> 
> Now it looks like this
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a problem with this? I can't really think of one.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> 
> JT


Should be due to the loss of pressure when the system is turned off. Causing fluid flowback to the Res.

The Cautious ONe


----------



## aerotracks

Got a new block today for my bench table, look and feel is just awesome. I might actually like those circles a little bit









http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_8178-kopiegxjdn.jpg

I still prefer my Supreme HF though









http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_7706yjrwy.jpg


----------



## smicha

I also love it


----------



## aerotracks

Nice!


----------



## MadHatter5045

Finally got my second card added into the loop


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@MadHatter5045 Very Nice!!









TCO


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @MadHatter5045 Very Nice!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Thank you







! I've really enjoyed your build log!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ! I've really enjoyed your build log!


I tip my hat to the compliment.









It's not over yet! Hang in there with me. About to have some huge moves here. (Drilling, Fittings, ETC)

The Cautious One


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I tip my hat to the compliment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not over yet! Hang in there with me. About to have some huge moves here. (Drilling, Fittings, ETC)
> 
> The Cautious One


Can't wait!









I'm still planning how I'm going to switch mine to acrylic eventually.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Can't wait!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still planning how I'm going to switch mine to acrylic eventually.


Ah! The hardest part is just choosing what Fittings you want.

TCO


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ah! The hardest part is just choosing what Fittings you want.
> 
> TCO


No kidding there lol, I change my mind every time I write it out.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> No kidding there lol, I change my mind every time I write it out.


Just draw your computer (Case and all) and try and Imagine the loop as if it was alwasys there.

TCO


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Just draw your computer (Case and all) and try and Imagine the loop as if it was alwasys there.
> 
> TCO


Yep, MS Paint skills keep getting better, but I haven't quite nailed down a final idea.


----------



## andyv

Just a quick question.

I have purchased the Gigabyte 970 Gaming G1 block and there is coolant moving between parts that it looks like it shouldn't. Is this normal? Also I have hightlighted an area where a bubble always gets stuck still leak testing and getting all the bubble out of my system so hopefully it will leave.


The arrows show where coolant is moving though


----------



## Jeffinslaw

EK Supreme HF master race checking in:



















-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Panther Al

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> Just a quick question.
> 
> I have purchased the Gigabyte 970 Gaming G1 block and there is coolant moving between parts that it looks like it shouldn't. Is this normal? Also I have hightlighted an area where a bubble always gets stuck still leak testing and getting all the bubble out of my system so hopefully it will leave.
> 
> 
> The arrows show where coolant is moving though


Don't know for certain in your block, but generally speaking, you are fine. Fluids always follow the path of least resistance, and the main channels are where the vast bulk of the fluid will go.

Since there isn't O-Rings in those locations you called out, you will always get a little flow, but its incidental by and large.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> Just a quick question.
> 
> I have purchased the Gigabyte 970 Gaming G1 block and there is coolant moving between parts that it looks like it shouldn't. Is this normal? Also I have hightlighted an area where a bubble always gets stuck still leak testing and getting all the bubble out of my system so hopefully it will leave.
> 
> 
> The arrows show where coolant is moving though
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know for certain in your block, but generally speaking, you are fine. Fluids always follow the path of least resistance, and the main channels are where the vast bulk of the fluid will go.
> 
> Since there isn't O-Rings in those locations you called out, you will always get a little flow, but its incidental by and large.
Click to expand...

It is normal. About the only way to seal that area is to use a silicon based sealant that won't disintegrate with use.









I have the same issue with my MB block at the SB I/O port. There is a slight gap due to the Oring contact between the Top and the Block.









~Ceadder


----------



## andyv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> Don't know for certain in your block, but generally speaking, you are fine.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It is normal.


Thanks, I thought it would be fine. I was just checking. My last GPU block was solid so I couldnt see this happening. Now to get that pesky bubble out of the system


----------



## Roxycon

those vardar fans are beautiful, can't wait till the system is up and running again


----------



## Malik




----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *those vardar fans are beautiful*, can't wait till the system is up and running again










You serious. ?

TCO


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> So two questions. Any chance of the other Vardars getting a second SKU that's colored black like the FFS? And second, any plans for dual 90° acrylic adapters like these?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22685/ex-tub-2601/Bitspower_Enhanced_Dual_90-Degree_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_Black_Sparkle_BP-BSE90DML.html?tl=g30c703s2266


Probably not like that but I just heard (like 2 hours ago) that we might have a female-female angled adapter in the future but I have no other precise info about it. So you would end up with something like you pictured by adding 2 fittings at each end.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> why is the rampage V monoblock almost $200
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any performance numbers of the rampage monoblock vs a supremacy+non monoblock waterblocks ?


In fact the price difference is like a 4$ difference between the monoblock and a supremacy + a non-monoblock. But you save on fittings









EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Acetal

EK-FB KIT ASUS R5E - Acetal

EK-FB ASUS R5E Monoblock - Acetal+Nickel


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> In fact the price difference is like a 4$ difference between the monoblock and a supremacy + a non-monoblock. But you save on fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Acetal
> 
> EK-FB KIT ASUS R5E - Acetal
> 
> EK-FB ASUS R5E Monoblock - Acetal+Nickel


well i was just doing the price difference as someone who already owns a supremacy, so the difference is much bigger, true though that first timers with no current cpu block will find more savings.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You serious. ?
> 
> TCO


Better looks than noctua fans, and optimised for the right thing as well, was thinking about gray fans before ek came out with theirs







I'm a premium fan virgin though, but no other fan has impressed me as the ek


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Better looks than noctua fans, and optimised for the right thing as well, was thinking about gray fans before ek came out with theirs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a premium fan virgin though, but no other fan has impressed me as the ek


I guess to each his own. What bugs me about them are all the holes in the center piece of the fan.

TCO


----------



## Alex132

I really like the look of GTs/EK Vardars too.

The holes in the centre don't bother me NEARLY as much as a horribly wonky logo that spins funnily *ahem* Corsair *ahem* or orange anti-vibration mounts *ahem* Cougar *ahem*


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I guess to each his own. What bugs me about them are all the holes in the center piece of the fan.
> 
> TCO


Fans need cooling too


----------



## szeged

put a fan in your fan, fanception


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> put a fan in your fan, fanception


You just blew my brain.


----------



## Roxycon

having close to none technical data about sizes on EK stuff drives me crazy







cant find myself any suitable pump and res


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> put a fan in your fan, fanception


Mount a 40mm on your 120mm?


----------



## LandonAaron

I just purchased a VisionTek R9 290 w/ EK waterblock:



and an EK FC waterblock for my R9 290x:



and I am trying to figure out what the heck I will need to connect them. I knew I would need a bridge thing, but when I started shopping for it, it seems there are CSQ bridges which fit older cards????, and FC bridges which fit Titans. That is as precise of information as EK has on the subject. If you have a Titan you need FC bridge if you have an older card you need CSQ. Makes me want to just return everything and not give any business to EK. But I guess I should calm down and just try to figure this out by asking OCN since, EK is too dumb to provide their customers with such basic information such as whether the block uses an FC type fitting or a CSQ type fitting.

Also a FAQ page explaining the difference between these two mysterious terms would be nice.

So can you guys tell which type bridge I will need with these waterblocks?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I just purchased a VisionTek R9 290 w/ EK waterblock:
> 
> 
> 
> and an EK FC waterblock for my R9 290x:
> 
> 
> 
> and I am trying to figure out what the heck I will need to connect them. I knew I would need a bridge thing, but when I started shopping for it, it seems there are CSQ bridges which fit older cards????, and FC bridges which fit Titans. That is as precise of information as EK has on the subject. If you have a Titan you need FC bridge if you have an older card you need CSQ. Makes me want to just return everything and not give any business to EK. But I guess I should calm down and just try to figure this out by asking OCN since, EK is too dumb to provide their customers with such basic information such as whether the block uses an FC type fitting or a CSQ type fitting.
> 
> Also a FAQ page explaining the difference between these two mysterious terms would be nice.
> 
> So can you guys tell which type bridge I will need with these waterblocks?


Tubing?


----------



## bigporl

Don't forget to take the blue Protective stickers off of the EK blocks.[/quote]

Will do thanks for reminding me.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Tubing?


No, I want to use a bridge. But it is impossible to know which one I need until I get the waterblocks in I guess. I suppose I will have have to take them apart and see what type of terminals they use. Heck, there's no way to know if these two waterblocks will even be compatible with each other since one could use the bridge (CSQ) system, and the other could use the Terminal (FC) system.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> No, I want to use a bridge. But it is impossible to know which one I need until I get the waterblocks in I guess. I suppose I will have have to take them apart and see what type of terminals they use. Heck, there's no way to know if these two waterblocks will even be compatible with each other since one could use the bridge (CSQ) system, and the other could use the Terminal (FC) system.


Based on the looks of the two, they look compatible with each other. But if not, then you can't use a bride. You'd have to use tubing.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> Don't forget to take the blue Protective stickers off of the EK blocks.Will do thanks for reminding me.


No Problem









TCO


----------



## dslives

I think you need to use the terminal blocks - oblong holes, not circular. I have two EK FC-290x blocks joined this way. The top part with the G1/4 terminals is easily removed (but don't lose the o-rings and keep the screws because you need them for the terminal blocks).

I can't be certain about your visiontek block but if you can find the model on the EK site, it says quite clearly which system to use in the product description, eg:

"Up to four EK-FC R9-290X water blocks can be used on a single ATX form factor motherboard by using EK-FC Terminal (DUAL, TRIPLE or QUAD type) system or other means of interconnectivity. Please note that EK-FC Bridge & Link system is not compatible with this water block."


----------



## dslives

And make sure you get one which matches the spacing between your cards....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dslives*
> 
> And make sure you get one which matches the spacing between your cards....


Welcome to the Community Sir! I am glad you made it to Overclock.

Please use the little pencil on your previous post to incorporate your many afterthoughs to Edit a previous Post.

The Cautious One


----------



## Malik




----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I just purchased a VisionTek R9 290 w/ EK waterblock:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and an EK FC waterblock for my R9 290x:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I am trying to figure out what the heck I will need to connect them. I knew I would need a bridge thing, but when I started shopping for it, it seems there are CSQ bridges which fit older cards????, and FC bridges which fit Titans. That is as precise of information as EK has on the subject. If you have a Titan you need FC bridge if you have an older card you need CSQ. Makes me want to just return everything and not give any business to EK. But I guess I should calm down and just try to figure this out by asking OCN since, EK is too dumb to provide their customers with such basic information such as whether the block uses an FC type fitting or a CSQ type fitting.
> 
> Also a FAQ page explaining the difference between these two mysterious terms would be nice.
> 
> So can you guys tell which type bridge I will need with these waterblocks?


Hi,

Sorry about the fact that it can be wierd to understand all the terms.

For your card, the bridge type you need are the FC-Terminal (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals.html)

If you tell me which motherboard you will use for them, I can let you know which one will respect the slots spacing correctly.


----------



## Jakusonfire

If the blocks have circles all over them you use the bridge with circles on it.



If they do not have circles all over them you use the bridge without circles on it.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*


Im in love ?


----------



## Janac

Hello, my Supremacy EVO:


__
https://flic.kr/p/16740805992

Check the build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood/50#post_23634364


----------



## dodgethis

Received a shipment a few days ago from EK, along with the new fittings. I got two compressions and several 90 degree adapters.

The compressions are smaller in diameter, compared to my XSPC fitings of the same size, 3/8" ID 5/8" OD. The barb seems to be your run of the mill barb but the compression seems to be rather thin walled.





The 90-degree adapters are a heck lot stiffer than the older ones. But what irked me is that they seem to be painted, not plated, both inside and out. I already see some flaking on some of the fittings.





And the biggest downside? The blacks are not the same....


----------



## Ragsters

^


----------



## Alex132

XSPC does have the largest comp fitting sizes.

tbh I just will stick with Bitspower for now









I've had good luck with them in the past, and they seem to be decent overall - so yeah


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> XSPC does have the largest comp fitting sizes.
> 
> *tbh I just will stick with Bitspower for now*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've had good luck with them in the past, and they seem to be decent overall - so yeah


Couldn't have said it better If I tried.

TCO


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Sorry about the fact that it can be wierd to understand all the terms.
> 
> For your card, the bridge type you need are the FC-Terminal (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals.html)
> 
> If you tell me which motherboard you will use for them, I can let you know which one will respect the slots spacing correctly.


Thanks, for the help. Thanks to others who have responded as well. I apologize for venting frustration in my earlier post. I wasn't looking in the right place for the information. I was looking at the bridges for a list of compatible blocks, instead I should have been looking at the blocks for a list of compatible of bridges. Anyway, it seems I will need the terminal type bridges. My motherboard is Asus Maximus VII Hero. I am pretty sure I need the Dual Card Triple Slot Bridge. Looking to buy this one here: http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-terminal-dual-parallel-3-slot-acetal.html The motherboard is a little strange in that there is actually only one PCI slot between the Two PCIex16 slots, but it has an empty space where a slot would normally be.



Will the bridge come with the screws needed to attach them to the blocks, or do I just reuse the screws that currently hold on the port block thing to the waterblock?

Also, I saw something on EK website about HD Tube's. Really I think I would probably like these better, as it seems like it would be cleaner look just having two acrylic tubes run between the cards instead of a large metal block screwed to the side. Performance PC's has a large selection of EK-HD Adapters, but only a few of them say they are compatible with the HD Tube system in their descriptions.

For example this one says its compatible: http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-ek-hd-adapter-12-16mm-black.html

But this one does not mention HD Tube compatibility: http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-ek-hd-adapter-12-16mm-black-nickel.html

And then finally there are these nicer looking HDC fittings which don't mention HD Tube compatibility though there is a picture on their description page where they seem to have HD Tubes attached:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-hdc-fitting-12mm-g1-4-red.html

Finnally the two blocks I will be using this on is the EK-FC R9-290X - Acetal+Nickel Full Cover GPU Water Block w/ Backplate (Rev.1.0), and the Visiontek Cryovenom R9 290 with an ek block preinstalled from the factory, so not really sure of the precise block used on Visiontek. Hopefully I won't run into any issues. If anyone knows anything about either these Rev.1 blocks or these Cryovenom blocks, that might present issues please let me know...


----------



## Domiro

Compatibility is defined by the OD accepted by the fitting and the OD of the material you're using. Both HD and HDC adapters will take acrylic, copper, stainless steel and whatever tube with the same OD you can think of. EK stating it's "compatible" is just them covering their backs or at least I imagine so. I'm using the 12mm HDC adapters with 12mm OD copper tubing. The ID is relevant largely in the amount of liquid going through.

Looking at EK's technical data shows the supported tube to be 12mm OD

I do wonder why in the description it says for the HD fitting there's also an ID, while for the HDC fittings it doesn't.

Although I'm using the CSQ blocks and bridge, the bridge came with all the needed screws, o-rings, etc. The bridges/terminals are made of acrylic or acetal.


----------



## LandonAaron

My main concern between the HD adapter fittings and the HDC fittings is their length. I don't have the tools to cut hard tubing, so the adapter and HD tubes need to line up just right to fit the two cards without me needing to make adjustments. The HDC adapters look bigger, but the tube could just sit further down in it?


----------



## Domiro

Seating depth of the HDC fittings is 9mm, not sure about the HD adapters. Maybe our local EK rep can help out, EK's shop doesn't show technical data on the adapters/fittings.

I've not worked with acrylic tubing but maybe you do have the tools to make the tubing yourself. Think you only need a hacksaw and sandpaper, there's more info here; http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Thanks, for the help. Thanks to others who have responded as well. I apologize for venting frustration in my earlier post. I wasn't looking in the right place for the information. I was looking at the bridges for a list of compatible blocks, instead I should have been looking at the blocks for a list of compatible of bridges. Anyway, it seems I will need the terminal type bridges. My motherboard is Asus Maximus VII Hero. I am pretty sure I need the Dual Card Triple Slot Bridge. Looking to buy this one here: http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-terminal-dual-parallel-3-slot-acetal.html The motherboard is a little strange in that there is actually only one PCI slot between the Two PCIex16 slots, but it has an empty space where a slot would normally be.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will the bridge come with the screws needed to attach them to the blocks, or do I just reuse the screws that currently hold on the port block thing to the waterblock?
> 
> Also, I saw something on EK website about HD Tube's. Really I think I would probably like these better, as it seems like it would be cleaner look just having two acrylic tubes run between the cards instead of a large metal block screwed to the side. Performance PC's has a large selection of EK-HD Adapters, but only a few of them say they are compatible with the HD Tube system in their descriptions.
> 
> For example this one says its compatible: http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-ek-hd-adapter-12-16mm-black.html
> 
> But this one does not mention HD Tube compatibility: http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-ek-hd-adapter-12-16mm-black-nickel.html
> 
> And then finally there are these nicer looking HDC fittings which don't mention HD Tube compatibility though there is a picture on their description page where they seem to have HD Tubes attached:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-hdc-fitting-12mm-g1-4-red.html
> 
> Finnally the two blocks I will be using this on is the EK-FC R9-290X - Acetal+Nickel Full Cover GPU Water Block w/ Backplate (Rev.1.0), and the Visiontek Cryovenom R9 290 with an ek block preinstalled from the factory, so not really sure of the precise block used on Visiontek. Hopefully I won't run into any issues. If anyone knows anything about either these Rev.1 blocks or these Cryovenom blocks, that might present issues please let me know...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hi,

The EK-FC Terminal that you found on Performance PC's is the right one that you need









You will need to re-use the screws that are already on your single terminal.

Of course you can also go with the HD-Tubing solution. I don't know why PPCS forgot to mention the compatibility thing on the black nickel fitting but I confirm that it's compatible like the black one is. The Red HDC is also compatible with the hg-tube but the sitting could be a bit higher so the you would need to shave a bit of the tubing but it might be the same I just don't know it.

If you want to go with the HD-Tube solution and don't have the equipment to work on the acrylic tube, I would stay with the standard HD-Tube.

As a reminder, I saw that you linked the 12/16mm fittings but we also have the 10/12mm fittings and tubing which are a bit smaller in diameter.

If you go with HD-Tube, the one you will need for your setup are those one.

EK-HD Tube 10/12mm 3-Slot (2 pcs)

or

EK-HD Tube 12/16mm 3-Slot (2 pcs)

I hope it helps


----------



## LandonAaron

Thinking about the HD tube vs. the Terminal Bridge, I thought the HD Tube would be nice, but it would be better if I could get the tubing the same color as my hose. Then I realized, heck why don't I just use hose? I can't imagine it would look much different. I guess the advantage to the HD Tube though, is that it would be pre-cut to the perfect length.

I don't know why I didn't think of this before. I just kind of automatically assumed that if I am going to go two card full cover, I should get a bridge as that is what I have seen on every two or more water block system I have looked at. But I guess there is no real reason to do it that way, other than personal preference. I suppose also if you are working with a dual slot instead of triple slot configuration, a bridge may be easier to work with as there is very little room between the two cards to attach fittings and hose.

Well I already have spare hose, and barb fittings, so I think I will try connecting it that way first, and then if I run into trouble, consider getting a bridge or HD Tube system.


----------



## SteezyTN

Ugh, is this a good sign? Is that mold or mildew growing? These fittings were connected to my parallel 3 slot terminal. All I used was distiller water and dead water (from frozenCPU). I put more than 1-2 drops per liter, so could tht be the cause?


----------



## FrancisJF

What tubing did you use? Did you take a picture of your loop before you drained it also?


----------



## RpeeKooz

Hey guys I'm about to fill my loop with aurora2.I have a ek 250 tube res.I'm using bottom 2 ports the book says I need to use foam insert rather then the acrylic ek insert.my question is do I need the foam insert in I don't want the aurora particles to separate when it goes threw the foam...
Can I run no foam without any flow issues?
Thanks


----------



## Domiro

My Vardar 1850 have dropped as low as 700 rpm, which is well below the 50% PWM duty cycle.

Pleasantly surprised, while idling or under low load they are near silent.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> Hey guys I'm about to fill my loop with aurora2.I have a ek 250 tube res.I'm using bottom 2 ports the book says I need to use foam insert rather then the acrylic ek insert.my question is do I need the foam insert in I don't want the aurora particles to separate when it goes threw the foam...
> Can I run no foam without any flow issues?
> Thanks


It's not mandatory but not using the foam can cause some vortex issues in your reservoir.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> What tubing did you use? Did you take a picture of your loop before you drained it also?


Are you asking me? I have the XSPC red tubing, and the tubing is fine.


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's not mandatory but not using the foam can cause some vortex issues in your reservoir.


I can't really find much on vortex in a res.is it just the sound and air bubbles while filling and bleeding?or is there something worse I couldn't find


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> I can't really find much on vortex in a res.is it just the sound and air bubbles while filling and bleeding?or is there something worse I couldn't find


It spins fast enough and air can be sucked into system. You will be able to see it if its an issue.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> I can't really find much on vortex in a res.is it just the sound and air bubbles while filling and bleeding?or is there something worse I couldn't find


At its worst, at very high flow rates a vortex cone can extend from the top of the res water level all the way down to the impeller in the pump. When that happens a large amount of air is introduced to the volute area and the pump can instantly air lock and actually stop nearly all flow ... combined with a horrible noise.


----------



## Neb9

Anyone know of where I can get some normal screws for a Supremacy EVO?

The ones they come with not these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-cpu-ezmount-ltx-lga2011-add-on-nickel.html


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> Anyone know of where I can get some normal screws for a Supremacy EVO?
> 
> The ones they come with not these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-cpu-ezmount-ltx-lga2011-add-on-nickel.html


EK-Supremacy EVO PreciseMount - Nickel









Or from our website : EK-Supremacy EVO PreciseMount - Nickel


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> At its worst, at very high flow rates a vortex cone can extend from the top of the res water level all the way down to the impeller in the pump. When that happens a large amount of air is introduced to the volute area and the pump can instantly air lock and actually stop nearly all flow ... combined with a horrible noise.


So with a taller res it would be less likely to happen?

I just purchased an EK pump/res combo and got the taller res for it.

I saw someone post (can't remember where now), that their foam insert started to come apart and put little pieces of foam throughout their system.

So I want to run mine without the foam if possible. Are most of you running with or without the foam?


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> So with a taller res it would be less likely to happen?
> 
> I just purchased an EK pump/res combo and got the taller res for it.
> 
> I saw someone post (can't remember where now), that their foam insert started to come apart and put little pieces of foam throughout their system.
> 
> So I want to run mine without the foam if possible. Are most of you running with or without the foam?


Yeah that was a couple of pages ago. I'm using aurora I'm thinking of leaving the foam in till it's up and running and fully functional then I will remove the foam see if that helps...


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> At its worst, at very high flow rates a vortex cone can extend from the top of the res water level all the way down to the impeller in the pump. When that happens a large amount of air is introduced to the volute area and the pump can instantly air lock and actually stop nearly all flow ... combined with a horrible noise.


So if I keep my res full it shouldn't be a problem?


----------



## LandonAaron

Does anyone know if Phobya XT thermal pads are any good? Performance-PCS was sold out of the EK brand thermal pads I need, and its just too expensive ordering from EK directly. I bought a used full cover R9 290x block w/ backplate, and a R9 290 with block and backplate pre-installed. I feel like I should probably put new thermal pads on at least the loose one.I haven't received the loose block and backplate yet, but I got the R9 290 yesterday. Its acrylic so I can see inside and the block and its still wet. Also, I can see what looks like a couple of blobs of dye that got gunked up in there. I'm new to full cover blocks, and fairly new to water cooling in general. How hard is it to disassemble these blocks if you want to give the insides a good cleaning, and what should I use to clean it with? Will I have to remove the block from the card to get to the inside of the block? I don't really want to remove the block and risk messing up the thermal pads.

On the loose block and backplate the thermal pads look good in the pictures, but I don't really trust using used pads though.These Phobya pads aren't cheap either at $5 a pop. If I wanted to re-do the whole card I would need 1 for the VRM, 2 for the Memory, 1 for Backplate VRM, and 1 for backplate GPU. That five total for $25 + shipping, which is somehow $8, though I am pretty sure an envelope and stamp would cover it. Anyway, have any of you used the Phobya XT pads, and what were your results?


----------



## ozzy1925

any ek d5 dual top owner can measure the clearance between the pump end and the metalic part :


----------



## szeged

weekly check in to see about those kingpin waterblocks


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> any ek d5 dual top owner can measure the clearance between the pump end and the metalic part :


Do you mean from the base of the pump to the floor of the mount bracket underneath it?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Do you mean from the base of the pump to the floor of the mount bracket underneath it?


yea


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> yea


I get 11.75mm ... Its abit of an awkward spot to get my callipers into though. so that may not be absolutely precise.

Can I ask why you need to know?


----------



## maximus7651000

There's approximately 3/8" to 1/2" of clearance between the pumps and bracket so Jakusonfire's measurement of 11.75mm looks right to me. Same thing I'm getting on mine.


----------



## Neb9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK-Supremacy EVO PreciseMount - Nickel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or from our website : EK-Supremacy EVO PreciseMount - Nickel


Thanks.

REP+


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I get 11.75mm ... Its abit of an awkward spot to get my callipers into though. so that may not be absolutely precise.
> 
> Can I ask why you need to know?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maximus7651000*
> 
> There's approximately 3/8" to 1/2" of clearance between the pumps and bracket so Jakusonfire's measurement of 11.75mm looks right to me. Same thing I'm getting on mine.


My pumps are aquaero d5 with usb connection i wonder if the usb cable fits in there.Are you guys if the space is 11.75mm because according the ek drawing the whole part is 83mm.tall


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> My pumps are aquaero d5 with usb connection i wonder if the usb cable fits in there.Are you guys if the space is 11.75mm because according the ek drawing the whole part is 83mm.tall


I thought that might be why you were asking

I have the same pumps and they sure don't fit. Well the pumps themselves fit but only with none of the cables attached.

A simple way to get around it is to double up the rubber vibration damping mounts for more height.



Edit: Also, whoever set up that EK dual top in the picture you linked has it wrong. The return line should be connected to the reservoir port instead of the pump port.

I didn't notice you had marked the gap you were talking about in the picture til I opened the original. The red lines blend in to the build too well








When marking pictures I always include big red arrows for dumb dumbs like myself.


----------



## maximus7651000

11.75mm is the distance from the back of the pumps to the metal bracket. There's plenty of space for the power leads on my pumps to fit but I don't know how much flexibility your usb cables have. You can always drill holes in the bracket to run the leads through if they can't bend 90 degrees.

edit: Didn't see that Jakusonfire had answered that while I was typing.


----------



## Wirerat

So I ordered a EK D5 vario bare front pump. Will i need to buy anything else to mount it to a primochill d5 res?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NEV4E0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2ncavb1RCMGET


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> So I ordered a EK D5 vario bare front pump. Will i need to buy anything else to mount it to a primochill d5 res?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NEV4E0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2ncavb1RCMGET


Nope, the bottom silver ring is the compression system that holds the pump.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I thought that might be why you were asking
> 
> I have the same pumps and they sure don't fit. Well the pumps themselves fit but only with none of the cables attached.
> 
> A simple way to get around it is to double up the rubber vibration damping mounts for more height.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Also, whoever set up that EK dual top in the picture you linked has it wrong. The return line should be connected to the reservoir port instead of the pump port.
> 
> I didn't notice you had marked the gap you were talking about in the picture til I opened the original. The red lines blend in to the build too well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When marking pictures I always include big red arrows for dumb dumbs like myself.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maximus7651000*
> 
> 11.75mm is the distance from the back of the pumps to the metal bracket. There's plenty of space for the power leads on my pumps to fit but I don't know how much flexibility your usb cables have. You can always drill holes in the bracket to run the leads through if they can't bend 90 degrees.
> 
> edit: Didn't see that Jakusonfire had answered that while I was typing.


Thanks a lot for your help. @ITDiva also suggested to add rubber .I think its th best thing to do


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Nope, the bottom silver ring is the compression system that holds the pump.


thanks, at first thats what I thought but I was later 2nd guessing it.


----------



## DR4G00N

About time I joined the club.


(Top) EK-FB EVGA CLASSIFIED 4-SLI Acetal + Nickel
(Bottom) EK-FB EVGA X58 LE/SLI3 White Acetal + Nickel

Anyone know the dimensions of the thermal pads on the classy 4 sli block?


----------



## DNMock

To our local EK rep:

Do you guys plan on having a full cover water block ready to go when the Titan-X is released or soon there after?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> About time I joined the club.
> 
> 
> (Top) EK-FB EVGA CLASSIFIED 4-SLI Acetal + Nickel
> (Bottom) EK-FB EVGA X58 LE/SLI3 White Acetal + Nickel
> 
> Anyone know the dimensions of the thermal pads on the classy 4 sli block?


EK-FB EVGA CLASSIFIED 4-SLI instruction sheet

Step 4









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> To our local EK rep:
> 
> Do you guys plan on having a full cover water block ready to go when the Titan-X is released or soon there after?


Yep, it will be available at the release.


----------



## szeged

So are the kingpin blocks still a go or have they been cancelled for Titan x?


----------



## YaCantStopMe

Anyone ever ordered straight from eks website in the US? I ordered a few things from there site on sunday and its still says my order is processing. Dont know if i should put in a ticket to see if there is a update on when it might ship.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> So are the kingpin blocks still a go or have they been cancelled for Titan x?


Still a go


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Still a go


Cool for those sticking with the kingpin, I'll be going Titan x tri sli though


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK-FB EVGA CLASSIFIED 4-SLI instruction sheet
> 
> Step 4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, it will be available at the release.


Awesome! Good to hear.


----------



## mirzet1976

Hi, I was wondering what is the best order to cool my setup with these components: a reservoir, pump EK-DCP4.0, radiators EK-480XT and EK-240XT ,CPU block XSPC Raystorm on FX8320 and GPU block EK-FC R9 290X


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK-FB EVGA CLASSIFIED 4-SLI instruction sheet
> 
> Step 4


Thanks!







Though, I have another question: Is it possible to get the mounting hardware for this block anymore?


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mirzet1976*
> 
> Hi, I was wondering what is the best order to cool my setup with these components: a reservoir, pump EK-DCP4.0, radiators EK-480XT and EK-240XT ,CPU block XSPC Raystorm on FX8320 and GPU block EK-FC R9 290X


Reservoir to pump, after that it's irrelevant.


----------



## mirzet1976

OK, thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though, I have another question: Is it possible to get the mounting hardware for this block anymore?


I would be surprised sorry.

The only thing I can give you is what our mounting hardware package did contain back in the days.

-12 x standoff 6/3x2,5
-15 x screws M2,5x6 DIN7985


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I would be surprised sorry.
> 
> The only thing I can give you is what our mounting hardware package did contain back in the days.
> 
> -12 x standoff 6/3x2,5
> -15 x screws M2,5x6 DIN7985


Ah, that's unfortunate. I guess I'll just have to source some M2.5 screws from somewhere. Thanks for your help.


----------



## sinnedone

EK Sound Blaster Z Backplate???



lol, Had an extra backplate and figured I would try something out. Only thing I don't like is having the extra screws, seems a little out of place.


----------



## Wirerat

Started my sons rebuild/custom loop. He was dead set on a case just cause he liked the front.

Which means i had to gut this nzxt guardian and create mounts to hold the 360mm rad.




The EK parts go in later. He has a EK D5 (unless i swap it with my ddc







) ek supreme ltx and ek fc580 going in. Im hoping the 360mm plus 120mm rads will work decent on a 3gb 580 and 4770k.


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Got my EK Nickel/Acetal blocks mounted last night.

http://s91.photobucket.com/user/Ora...6-42C5-94CA-5A1E2D43986C_zpsnkwmego8.jpg.html

http://s91.photobucket.com/user/Ora...F-4880-BF62-A05F6309A010_zpsbeipruhm.jpg.html

http://s91.photobucket.com/user/Ora...3-4286-8C3E-201C7E805206_zpsxggg28rd.jpg.html


----------



## DarkIdeals

Well, any more word on the 980 Kingpin block yet? i just don't know how long i can wait. I suppose i could buy a couple universal block until the full cover comes out, but it'd cost more money and the classy/kpe cards apparently won't work with the thermosphere or bridge edition block so i'm stuck with the tiny vga supremacy which even with the mosfet/vrm plate thickening the pcb design doesn't look anywhere near as cool as even the smallest full cover ek blocks. The only bright side is that i would be able to re-use these blocks if i decided to sell my kingpins i just got to buy a couple TITAN X's when they're out.

EK really dropped the ball here though, i mean the kingpin doesn't even EXIST according to the ek website. It's been available for sale for a month and we've known it's exact specifications and dimensions etc.. for much longer than that and it STILL isn't even up on the EK website or the cooling configurator at all. I even filled out the form and attached pics of the card/pcb etc.. to send in to them via the "if the card you're looking for isn't here, send us this form and we will add it" thing. Been 3 weeks and they haven't even acknowledged that i sent the form

-___- I love EK and all....but damn. I mean i understand that the block isn't "out" yet, (although it's not much different than the classy so that's debateable whether they could've just tweaked the classy and had it done by now) but they should at least give us some kind of info. An ETA, some kind of news, delays, specs/design info etc.. If this turns into another 6 month wait like with the classy block i'm done, i'll just sell the cards. I'm sitting on two kingpins, a ton of watercooling gear, and waiting on my SMA8 to be shipped and there's no way i'm running air cooling in that beast for half a year.


----------



## FranciRus

First is from history, i think around from 2005 (socket A). I also had some earlyer versions (from 2002/03, models EK3 and EK4 i think). Went on and off from water cooling since then but i seem to return to it every few years









Second picture is my current "old" EK Supreme HF.

Greetings from Slovenia


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FranciRus*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice photo of historic block. Welcome to OCN


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Well, any more word on the 980 Kingpin block yet? i just don't know how long i can wait. I suppose i could buy a couple universal block until the full cover comes out, but it'd cost more money and the classy/kpe cards apparently won't work with the thermosphere or bridge edition block so i'm stuck with the tiny vga supremacy which even with the mosfet/vrm plate thickening the pcb design doesn't look anywhere near as cool as even the smallest full cover ek blocks. The only bright side is that i would be able to re-use these blocks if i decided to sell my kingpins i just got to buy a couple TITAN X's when they're out.
> 
> EK really dropped the ball here though, i mean the kingpin doesn't even EXIST according to the ek website. It's been available for sale for a month and we've known it's exact specifications and dimensions etc.. for much longer than that and it STILL isn't even up on the EK website or the cooling configurator at all. I even filled out the form and attached pics of the card/pcb etc.. to send in to them via the "if the card you're looking for isn't here, send us this form and we will add it" thing. Been 3 weeks and they haven't even acknowledged that i sent the form
> 
> -___- I love EK and all....but damn. I mean i understand that the block isn't "out" yet, (although it's not much different than the classy so that's debateable whether they could've just tweaked the classy and had it done by now) but they should at least give us some kind of info. An ETA, some kind of news, delays, specs/design info etc.. If this turns into another 6 month wait like with the classy block i'm done, i'll just sell the cards. I'm sitting on two kingpins, a ton of watercooling gear, and waiting on my SMA8 to be shipped and there's no way i'm running air cooling in that beast for half a year.


The KPE Block isn't completely manage by EK since it will probably be an EVGA HydroCopper block made by us. But because of that I don't have any news I can tell you.


----------



## akira749

We have a special giveaway for one of you guys! Go and check our Facebook post for more informations!

And don't worry it's not a Facebook giveaway.












__ https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks/posts/821299351257431


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We have a special giveaway for one of you guys! Go and check our Facebook post for more informations!
> 
> And don't worry it's not a Facebook giveaway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __ https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks/posts/821299351257431


Still on facebook tho


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We have a special giveaway for one of you guys! Go and check our Facebook post for more informations!
> 
> And don't worry it's not a Facebook giveaway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __ https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks/posts/821299351257431


Awesome, makes me wish I was in the US. I love GT / Vardar (guessing they're VERY similar lol) fans









And out of interest, why don't you offer a full-black PCIE bracket? I mean, case manuf. can paint PCIE brackets and they last a long time and a decent amount of abuse. So why not paint a PCIE bracket for a GPU? It'd look so much better IMO.

Heck, even my soundcard has a black PCIE bracket


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We have a special giveaway for one of you guys! Go and check our Facebook post for more informations!
> 
> And don't worry it's not a Facebook giveaway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __ https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks/posts/821299351257431


Awesome, registered.


----------



## snef

EK-FC970 GTX Strix Nickel
EK-FB ASUS M6I Nickel
EK-RAM Monarch X2 Nickel
EK-D5 Cover Kit Nickel
EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 Nickel
EK-AF Angled 2×45° Nickel
all plated gold

do you like "GOLD"?


----------



## krel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK-FB EVGA CLASSIFIED 4-SLI instruction sheet
> 
> Step 4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, it will be available at the release.


So since FrozenCPU is, well, frozen







what shops would you guys recommend instead that might have stock on T-X waterblocks right away? Pretty much all my watercooling bits came from there, and I'm not sure where else to look.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> So since FrozenCPU is, well, frozen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what shops would you guys recommend instead that might have stock on T-X waterblocks right away? Pretty much all my watercooling bits came from there, and I'm not sure where else to look.


www.performance-pcs.com


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Still on facebook tho


Then go on our website homepage (http://www.ekwb.com/) and the newsletter sign up is on the left.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Awesome, makes me wish I was in the US. I love GT / Vardar (guessing they're VERY similar lol) fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out of interest, why don't you offer a full-black PCIE bracket? I mean, case manuf. can paint PCIE brackets and they last a long time and a decent amount of abuse. So why not paint a PCIE bracket for a GPU? It'd look so much better IMO.
> 
> Heck, even my soundcard has a black PCIE bracket


This giveaway is not restricted to US









Which PCIE bracket you mean?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> So since FrozenCPU is, well, frozen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what shops would you guys recommend instead that might have stock on T-X waterblocks right away? Pretty much all my watercooling bits came from there, and I'm not sure where else to look.


First the Titan-X is not out so it would be difficult to find a retailer that has it.









When the block will be release, then you will be able to buy it from our retailers (Performance-PCs, Dazmode, Altex, NCIX).


----------



## krel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> First the Titan-X is not out so it would be difficult to find a retailer that has it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the block will be release, then you will be able to buy it from our retailers (Performance-PCs, Dazmode, Altex, NCIX).


I know that.









They'll all have stock at release then?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> I know that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They'll all have stock at release then?


That always depends on how they manage their ordering process with EK. There could be a few days of delay.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The KPE Block isn't completely manage by EK since it will probably be an EVGA HydroCopper block made by us. But because of that I don't have any news I can tell you.


God no...please don't make it a hydro copper!!! That would ruin it, after the 980 HC having that stupid terminal that you can't replace etc.. and forcing you to use black/acetal? horrid design evga, just horrid...

I bought these cards specifically so i could run them with an EK nickel/plexi block and that just makes me wanna puke hearing they'll make a hydrocopper one instead. I really wish i knew if the 780 classy block would fit it like people are thinking. But i can't afford to buy a block that i can't return if it doesn't fit.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> EK-FC970 GTX Strix Nickel
> EK-FB ASUS M6I Nickel
> EK-RAM Monarch X2 Nickel
> EK-D5 Cover Kit Nickel
> EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 Nickel
> EK-AF Angled 2×45° Nickel
> all plated gold
> 
> do you like "GOLD"?








































wait wait wait....is that REAL gold plating? As in like 14k etc..? #Dedication #Loaded


----------



## emsj86

Do most multi port rads come with caps for the extra ports. I was looking. At xspc rx and the pictures have them but doesn't say. Edit wrong thread sorry


----------



## VSG

Yeah the RX V3 comes with 2 plugs. Not sure why you asked it in the EK club though!


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> This giveaway is not restricted to US
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which PCIE bracket you mean?


Things like this:









http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vga-i-o-bracket-hd7990-se.html

Only black one I can find is the ARES III:


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> God no...please don't make it a hydro copper!!! That would ruin it, after the 980 HC having that stupid terminal that you can't replace etc.. and forcing you to use black/acetal? horrid design evga, just horrid...
> 
> I bought these cards specifically so i could run them with an EK nickel/plexi block and that just makes me wanna puke hearing they'll make a hydrocopper one instead. I really wish i knew if the 780 classy block would fit it like people are thinking. But i can't afford to buy a block that i can't return if it doesn't fit.


I agree. A proper EK block (with the usual two choices; acrylic or acetal) is a significantly better option. If they go HydroCopper I see no point in buying a Kingpin because HydroCoppers (even the newest ones) aren't exactly pretty. I've started justifying the cost for one even with the pending soon-TM release of the Titan X..


----------



## szeged

Kingpins aren't made for waterworks, buy them for freezing lol.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Kingpins aren't made for waterworks, buy them for freezing lol.


Water is at least possible in my current place, therefore water until I move and don't have to contemplate dragging a dewar up two flights of stairs, and then running the risk of asphyxiation because air gets stale quick in my place if you don't have windows plus box fans.

Edit: water is also something that can be run 24/7, I can't afford a dedicated benching rig now that buying a house went from two years away to within four months.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Do most multi port rads come with caps for the extra ports. I was looking. At xspc rx and the pictures have them but doesn't say. Edit wrong thread sorry


What geggeg said. The RX Comes with 2 plugs. As for the EX240+ multiport (which I do own), you need to purchased extra plugs. But yeah, this is the EK club


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Do most multi port rads come with caps for the extra ports. I was looking. At xspc rx and the pictures have them but doesn't say. Edit wrong thread sorry


Its annoying not knowing what hardware comes with rads. I ordered an Alphacool Nexxxos, not realizing all the plugs and bolts are copper! Its so dumb. Its an all copper radiator, and they obviously painted it black for a reason (no one wants to actually see the copper), yet they think its a good idea to give you copper hardware. So now I have to order 4 plugs, and maybe even some screws to replace all this ugly crap.


----------



## szeged

or you can paint the plugs......


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> or you can paint the plugs......


^

or get over it. You made the mistake on component choice. Perrriod.







or drool over your beloved-money-well-spent radiator forever!

til they gather dust!


----------



## Rahldrac

Soooo, tried to sign up for newsletter on my account on EK's website. get 404 error. No vardar fans for me I guess


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> ^
> 
> or get over it. You made the mistake on component choice. Perrriod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or drool over your beloved-money-well-spent radiator forever!
> 
> til they gather dust!


I like the alphacool rads!! Good rads to me!!!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Things like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vga-i-o-bracket-hd7990-se.html
> 
> Only black one I can find is the ARES III:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh that pcie bracket!









We don't have a lot of them...

Even if I agree with you that black could be nice, we couldn't just paint the thing. It woud have to be powdercoated or anodized because if it was only painted then people would rant on the fact that the paint is chipping. Powdercoat or anodization is costly since we don't sell a lot of those little things.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Soooo, tried to sign up for newsletter on my account on EK's website. get 404 error. No vardar fans for me I guess


Could you retry please and let me know if you still have the 404 error?


----------



## Rahldrac

Still there:

Whoops, our bad...
The page you requested was not found, and we have a fine guess why.
If you typed the URL directly, please make sure the spelling is correct.
If you clicked on a link to get here, the link is outdated.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/newsletter/manage/


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Things like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vga-i-o-bracket-hd7990-se.html
> 
> Only black one I can find is the ARES III:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh that pcie bracket!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We don't have a lot of them...
> 
> Even if I agree with you that black could be nice, we couldn't just paint the thing. It woud have to be powdercoated or anodized because if it was only painted then people would rant on the fact that the paint is chipping. Powdercoat or anodization is costly since we don't sell a lot of those little things.
Click to expand...

Yeah I understand why you wouldn't do it, more of a rant why Nvidia/AMD doesn't do it.

It just stood out for me on the Titan X, that's why


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Still there:
> 
> Whoops, our bad...
> The page you requested was not found, and we have a fine guess why.
> If you typed the URL directly, please make sure the spelling is correct.
> If you clicked on a link to get here, the link is outdated.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/newsletter/manage/


Ok ok from this way I just see that it don't work. I will let them know thanks!

But without going to your account, you can just go on the homepage of the website and sign up to the newsletter on the left. This should work.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Yeah I understand why you wouldn't do it, more of a rant why Nvidia/AMD doesn't do it.
> 
> It just stood out for me on the Titan X, that's why












When the Titan-X goes on release, check if Zotac is making one. They usually have a nice black-nickel finish on their bracket


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Yeah I understand why you wouldn't do it, more of a rant why Nvidia/AMD doesn't do it.
> 
> It just stood out for me on the Titan X, that's why
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the Titan-X goes on release, check if Zotac is making one. They usually have a nice black-nickel finish on their bracket
Click to expand...

Oh? I haven't actually seen any cooler with a black-nickel or powder coated bracket.


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Ok ok from this way I just see that it don't work. I will let them know thanks!
> 
> But without going to your account, you can just go on the homepage of the website and sign up to the newsletter on the left. This should work.


Worked fine from the homepage. Just wanted to let you know about the error


----------



## Recr3ational

Hey guys,
I bought a super cheap GPU waterblock and it didn't come with the screws.
Is there anywhere I can get a replacement?

Thanks. Google didn't come up with anything..


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I bought a super cheap GPU waterblock and it didn't come with the screws.
> Is there anywhere I can get a replacement?
> 
> Thanks. Google didn't come up with anything..


They are m3 screws typically i believe. If you csn look up an installation guide for an ek model it should list the length.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I bought a super cheap GPU waterblock and it didn't come with the screws.
> Is there anywhere I can get a replacement?
> 
> Thanks. Google didn't come up with anything..


Can you post a picture of the waterblock? Or link us to the page where it was being sold? We'd need to know what kind of holes it has to tell you which screws would work with it. Typically they use some manner of M3 screw but it could be M3 .05 all the way to M3 6 or something (some of the cheap bykski and whatnot blocks use whacky screw measures)


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Kingpins aren't made for waterworks, buy them for freezing lol.


LIke how you do right? As in never get around to freezing them like you mean to till a year later


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Water is at least possible in my current place, therefore water until I move and don't have to contemplate dragging a dewar up two flights of stairs, and then running the risk of asphyxiation because air gets stale quick in my place if you don't have windows plus box fans.
> 
> Edit: water is also something that can be run 24/7, I can't afford a dedicated benching rig now that buying a house went from two years away to within four months.


Yeah exactly, for those of us who actually do gaming instead of buying a card ONLY for benching, LN2 and DICE is nothing more than a fun side hobby. And honestly water cooling is perfectly viable for a Kingpin card, people are already getting over 1700mhz core / 8000 mem on 980 KP cards even with the universal waterblocks using only the vrm/mosfet cooling plate to cool the rest of the card. The only other extreme cooling method that is fine for longterm use is phase change/chilling stuff. Which actually is pretty good for KP cards, kind of bridges the gap between ~30-40C water cooling temps and -150C LN2 temps. Either way is completely fine for making use of a quality card for benching and gaming simultaneously.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

How are vrm temps though? I know they were a huge problem with 780ti KPE cards. Alot of people ghetto rigged fans amd heatsinks, even with ek waterblocks.

Urg i need to sell mine. Too much money in those things, i could pretty much get 2 980s if i sold both of my 780ti


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Can you post a picture of the waterblock? Or link us to the page where it was being sold? We'd need to know what kind of holes it has to tell you which screws would work with it. Typically they use some manner of M3 screw but it could be M3 .05 all the way to M3 6 or something (some of the cheap bykski and whatnot blocks use whacky screw measures)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> LIke how you do right? As in never get around to freezing them like you mean to till a year later


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Yeah exactly, for those of us who actually do gaming instead of buying a card ONLY for benching, LN2 and DICE is nothing more than a fun side hobby. And honestly water cooling is perfectly viable for a Kingpin card, people are already getting over 1700mhz core / 8000 mem on 980 KP cards even with the universal waterblocks using only the vrm/mosfet cooling plate to cool the rest of the card. The only other extreme cooling method that is fine for longterm use is phase change/chilling stuff. Which actually is pretty good for KP cards, kind of bridges the gap between ~30-40C water cooling temps and -150C LN2 temps. Either way is completely fine for making use of a quality card for benching and gaming simultaneously.


I am like other people and wish you would learn to multi quote!!!!!


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I bought a super cheap GPU waterblock and it didn't come with the screws.
> Is there anywhere I can get a replacement?
> 
> Thanks. Google didn't come up with anything..


Take the block with you up to a hardware store (not sure if there are Ace Hardware stores in the UK) and trial and error it. Should use screws around M3 or M4 or something with varying lengths. Might take an hour or so but shouldn't cost you more than 5 or 10 bucks at most.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I bought a super cheap GPU waterblock and it didn't come with the screws.
> Is there anywhere I can get a replacement?
> 
> Thanks. Google didn't come up with anything..


Take the block to a hardware store (B&Q, Screw Fix, local stores) and they should help you find the required size. Or contact the manufacturer for the screw dimensions.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Can you post a picture of the waterblock? Or link us to the page where it was being sold? We'd need to know what kind of holes it has to tell you which screws would work with it. Typically they use some manner of M3 screw but it could be M3 .05 all the way to M3 6 or something (some of the cheap bykski and whatnot blocks use whacky screw measures)


Thank you!
Rep+
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> They are m3 screws typically i believe. If you csn look up an installation guide for an ek model it should list the length.


I did exactly that, it was the m3.
Thanks, Rep+


----------



## Ceadderman

Signed up. Doubtful I win but @ least I get the newsletter now.









~Ceadder


----------



## DNMock

While this question you may not be able to give us an answer yet since it hasn't even technically been officially announced yet, but I'll try anyway.

Titan X Blocks dropping on release is awesome, what about the upcoming AMD Flagship GPU? All systems go on a full block being available for that card if/when it is also released?

Still open to going either direction, but if the AMD Flagship card won't have an EK full cover block for a while after they release it would make my decision a whole lot easier to make.


----------



## Alex132

@akira749

How many Titan-Z waterblocks did you actually sell? I still wanna know who wasted their money on those








(The graphics card - not the WB lol)


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> How many Titan-Z waterblocks did you actually sell? I still wanna know who wasted their money on those
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (The graphics card - not the WB lol)


there was a guy in one of the rampage owner threads saying he got 4 to sli xD
also something about owning stores and dealerships in texas,


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> How many Titan-Z waterblocks did you actually sell? I still wanna know who wasted their money on those
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (The graphics card - not the WB lol)
> 
> 
> 
> there was a guy in one of the rampage owner threads saying he got *4 to sli* xD
> also something about owning stores and dealerships in texas,
Click to expand...











edit- you should have "RAM fan" as your title


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> there was a guy in one of the rampage owner threads saying he got 4 to sli xD
> also something about owning stores and dealerships in texas,


Haha, I'd love to hear how that 8 way SLI set up is working out for him.

Sadly, assuming he actually does own car dealerships here in Texas, I wouldn't doubt he would be dumb enough to try.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> While this question you may not be able to give us an answer yet since it hasn't even technically been officially announced yet, but I'll try anyway.
> 
> Titan X Blocks dropping on release is awesome, what about the upcoming AMD Flagship GPU? All systems go on a full block being available for that card if/when it is also released?
> 
> Still open to going either direction, but if the AMD Flagship card won't have an EK full cover block for a while after they release it would make my decision a whole lot easier to make.


I have no words about it yet but, I would be surprised that we wouldn't have a block available upon release for the new reference AMD.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> How many Titan-Z waterblocks did you actually sell? I still wanna know who wasted their money on those
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (The graphics card - not the WB lol)


I have absolutely no ideas


----------



## Alex132

Does it matter if a GPU uses an IHS or not when you design a block?
I assume the height would be different actually...


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit- you should have "RAM fan" as your title


but I dont use fans on my ram, wouldnt make sense
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Haha, I'd love to hear how that 8 way SLI set up is working out for him.
> 
> Sadly, assuming he actually does own car dealerships here in Texas, I wouldn't doubt he would be dumb enough to try.


supposedly it was for 2 seperate 4960x based pcs, that he had. WELL SPECIFICALLY the reason everyone said he was Bunny extraction was cuz he said both of his chips did 5ghz at some highly unrealistic voltage. Basically it would have been imposible for him to have 2 from silicon lottery, some guuy had gone through a TON of chips to get one to do it.

his profile pic was his supposed 350z and vette or porsche or something in front of his house


----------



## Wirerat

Just mounted the EK D5 to the primochill res. Im certain to be upgrading my main to a similar res/pump soon. I would like the 240mm length though.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit- you should have "RAM fan" as your title
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I dont use fans on my ram, wouldnt make sense
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Haha, I'd love to hear how that 8 way SLI set up is working out for him.
> 
> Sadly, assuming he actually does own car dealerships here in Texas, I wouldn't doubt he would be dumb enough to try.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> supposedly it was for 2 seperate 4960x based pcs, that he had. WELL SPECIFICALLY the reason everyone said he was Bunny extraction was cuz he said both of his chips did 5ghz at some highly unrealistic voltage. Basically it would have been imposible for him to have 2 from silicon lottery, some guuy had gone through a TON of chips to get one to do it.
> 
> his profile pic was his supposed 350z and vette or porsche or something in front of his house
Click to expand...

Vette that he said AMD bought him or payed for it or some crap like that?

... Was it orange?


----------



## Malik

Time to warm up project Vulture


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Time to warm up project Vulture
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










you're on fire Malik. Somebody bring the weenies I got the Mallows.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarkIdeals

Anyone have pictures of the Vardar fans on a caselabs case? Preferably an SMA8/SMH10/STH10 type one?

I'm trying to decide what fans to use on my build, i'm gonna be using an SMA8 with an XSPC EX480 35mm thick rad up top, a Black Ice GTX 360 55mm thick rad in the front flex bay, and an EK XTC 420 60mm thick rad in the basement section. I'm thinking of using a Noctua industrial/black NF-F12 120mm as my exhaust fan with four industrial/black NF-A14 140mm noctua's on the EK 420 rad in the basement. Then i'm trying to decide which fan to use on the top 480 and the front 360 (not push/pull, so the 480 top rad would have fans inside the case while the front 360 rad would have fans outside so you can see them through the flexbay grill)

The three main choices i'm considering are

1.) the EK Vardar F3 1850rpm for the GTX360 (the F4 2200 are out of stock so these are fine), and the EK Vardar F1 1150rpm for the top XSPC 35mm rad since it's not as high fpi.

2) Corsair SP120 High Performance on the GTX360 rad and SP120 quiet edition for the XSPC top rad (again, since it won't need high rpm due to being low fpi/thinner) The white rings do match the black/white theme i have going with the mayhem white pastel coolant/black case etc.. too. But i have been itching to try out the vardar fans.

3) Aerocool Dead Silence White LED fans on the top XSPC 480 rad , (very similar to noctua's, they have real low noise, decent SP, and fair air flow, and also matches the white/black theme) and one of the other two fan t ypes (vardar / SP120) for the front rad.

I'm kinda worried that it would look stupid with black/brown noctua in exhaust and on bottom, black/greyish-white fans in front, and black/white on top etc... so i'm trying to think of what would give the best balance of style and performance.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> there was a guy in one of the rampage owner threads saying he got 4 to sli xD
> also something about owning stores and dealerships in texas,
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, I'd love to hear how that 8 way SLI set up is working out for him.
> 
> Sadly, assuming he actually does own car dealerships here in Texas, I wouldn't doubt he would be dumb enough to try.
Click to expand...

You can use more than two dual chip cards in a system. Not for gaming but for compute purposes. Much in the same way I used 5 cards while mining.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Does it matter if a GPU uses an IHS or not when you design a block?
> I assume the height would be different actually...


Exactly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Time to warm up project Vulture
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome pictures again my friend!!!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I am like other people and wish you would learn to multi quote!!!!!












TCO


----------



## guitarhero23

Getting the EK Monarch Modules ready for some Plasti-Dip experiments.

(Used heat to get EK badge off, not soaking to get rid of residue)



(With flash for clearer detail)


----------



## MrMhmToasty

Hey guys! Quick question. Is it possible to take a Supremacy Plexi top like the one sold on EK's website (where you get just the top and nothing else) and mount it on an EVO? I'm just wondering because I have a acetal supremacy evo but now I kinda like the look of the plexi. Thanks in advance!!!


----------



## Wirerat

I know you can upgrade the supremacy to supremacy evo. That must mean the tops are the same fit.


----------



## VSG

I don't think they are interchangeable as seen from the top included in the Supremacy Evo upgrade kit.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMhmToasty*
> 
> Hey guys! Quick question. Is it possible to take a Supremacy Plexi top like the one sold on EK's website (where you get just the top and nothing else) and mount it on an EVO? I'm just wondering because I have a acetal supremacy evo but now I kinda like the look of the plexi. Thanks in advance!!!


If you got Supremacy jet plates and o-ring to go with it then sure. The bases are the same but everything else is different. The tops, jet plates and inserts in the case of the evo.
You would then just have a supremacy plexi ... not an evo


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMhmToasty*
> 
> Hey guys! Quick question. Is it possible to take a Supremacy Plexi top like the one sold on EK's website (where you get just the top and nothing else) and mount it on an EVO? I'm just wondering because I have a acetal supremacy evo but now I kinda like the look of the plexi. Thanks in advance!!!


No it won't fit since the tops are very different.

Here's a good picture to show you the difference bet ween them


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Kind of obsessed with ek blocks and parts... I absolutely love them I think they are the classiest blocks and parts made.some people don't like the circles, I don't mind them and think they can look good when used in the right configuration.


Intel rig. The matching 690 nickel blocks and backplates were incredibly hard to find but I finnally found my second one.



glad I went with the circles on this one, wish they made the strix block with circles but you can't really see the bottom anyway.


----------



## Radnad

Circles FTW!!


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Circles FTW!!


Haha indeed!


----------



## Roxycon

Do i have to use pvc washers on the 295x2 backplate? the block installation require washers between the screws but the backplate doesnt mention anything


----------



## EK-123

Dear EK clubbers,

I would like to invite you all to EK Manufacturer forum, here at OCN. Recently our team pledged engagement to OCN and its members. So if you want to get in direct contact with us or discuss with fellow EK Fans this is the best place to do it: http://www.overclock.net/f/18067/ek-water-blocks .

We are just starting our activities there this week so be patient.

Regards
Mark
EKWB CEO


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK-CEO*
> 
> Dear EK clubbers,
> 
> I would like to invite you all to EK Manufacturer forum, here at OCN. Recently our team pledged engagement to OCN and its members. So if you want to get in direct contact with us or discuss with fellow EK Fans this is the best place to do it: http://www.overclock.net/f/18067/ek-water-blocks .
> 
> We are just starting our activities there this week so be patient.
> 
> Regards
> Mark
> EKWB CEO


It begins !

Thanks for that


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK-CEO*
> 
> Dear EK clubbers,
> 
> I would like to invite you all to EK Manufacturer forum, here at OCN. Recently our team pledged engagement to OCN and its members. So if you want to get in direct contact with us or discuss with fellow EK Fans this is the best place to do it: http://www.overclock.net/f/18067/ek-water-blocks .
> 
> We are just starting our activities there this week so be patient.
> 
> Regards
> Mark
> EKWB CEO


Good Day Mark and salutations from Arab-OC.









Time to spam the new sub forums with builds.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Sweet


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK-CEO*
> 
> Dear EK clubbers,
> 
> I would like to invite you all to EK Manufacturer forum, here at OCN. Recently our team pledged engagement to OCN and its members. So if you want to get in direct contact with us or discuss with fellow EK Fans this is the best place to do it: http://www.overclock.net/f/18067/ek-water-blocks .
> 
> We are just starting our activities there this week so be patient.
> 
> Regards
> Mark
> EKWB CEO


Thanks Mark, is this the place we should continue the same discussions we have here? Or is that the place to go for official questions and suggestions nad leave the banter here







?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Do i have to use pvc washers on the 295x2 backplate? the block installation require washers between the screws but the backplate doesnt mention anything


No washers under the milled standoffs of the backplate!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Do i have to use pvc washers on the 295x2 backplate? the block installation require washers between the screws but the backplate doesnt mention anything


No you don't need to use any pvc washers. The standoffs are parts of the backplate.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Thanks Mark, is this the place we should continue the same discussions we have here? Or is that the place to go for official questions and suggestions nad leave the banter here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Product questions (compatibility, issues, etc...) would be better in our EK forum now since this way each thread started will somehow act as a knowledge base. So if someone ask if his graphics card as a compatible waterblock for it and a few weeks later another customer has the same question, he will be able to obtain his answer quickly.









Of course, questions in the EK Club is still fine but it gets a bit lost in the customers pictures showdown and general chitchat which is the purpose of a club


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Haha indeed!


i 2nd this....CSQ FTW!!!


----------



## princedanly




----------



## princedanly




----------



## akira749

A few shots for all the OriginalCSQ Lovers


----------



## TheCautiousOne

A Couple More












Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









The Cautious One


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> A few shots for all the OriginalCSQ Lovers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Omg thank you for posting these! Seeing that the res like thag works (barely above pump) brings me much relief as i was worried my plan would be risky for the pump but now i feel better


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Omg thank you for posting these! Seeing that the res like thag works (barely above pump) brings me much relief as i was worried my plan would be risky for the pump but now i feel better


I too have a setup similar to this. Granted the res is bigger but I was still a little worried about the pump accidentally running dry. You can see it a few posts up in the 540 case. The pump seems to actually suck the coolant twards it once it gets going. I held my res up in the air at first just to make sure that the pump was getting coolant, but after the first on /off I put it back where it would be to make sure it was going to work and it did and has been working fine ever since.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> A Couple More
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


Really digging this look I'm assuming you hand polished the 980 blocks and got the backplates polished? Looks really sharp. I too always hand polish my blocks I can't stand the frosted look.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> i 2nd this....CSQ FTW!!!


I used all csq blocks in my amd rig even hand polished the monarch ram block and I think it turned out great, what do you think, you can see it a couple posts up, at most a page back. Pretty proud of this one, it's no show piece but I put alot of time into it.only been into watercooling for about 4 months and in that time I've done 4 builds and this is the first one that I'm really proud of.


----------



## MrPT

My new toy arrived, soon gonna start worklog on forum







I have question, i want polish top but i'm afraid i will tear off nickel coating. Anyone have experience on this?


----------



## Ceadderman

MaGwuire's metal polish wadding should do it. Just remember to read the can before purchasing.

I use never dull and brass exclusively, but seeing as how chrome plating really shines at automotive shows I trust MaGwuire's for polishing plated metals.









~Ceadder


----------



## Panther Al

Question for those that might know:

With EVGA using EK blocks, does standard EK Bridges work with them?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> Question for those that might know:
> 
> With EVGA using EK blocks, does standard EK Bridges work with them?


If you're referring to the HydroCopper blocks like this one



Then no since it's a wider than normal Terminal bridge.


----------



## krel

So when should we be able to buy these at retailers in the US? I'd like three, please.











Also, just making sure, this is the right bridge for these, correct?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi.html


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> So when should we be able to buy these at retailers in the US? I'd like three, please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, just making sure, this is the right bridge for these, correct?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi.html


Yes this is the right version of the bridge to be used on the one pictured.

PPCS should have them somewhere during the next week.


----------



## szeged

so about that sponsorship for 4x titan x blocks for the new build ......................


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> so about that sponsorship for 4x titan x blocks for the new build ......................


If I end up with Titan X GPU's in return maybe


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> If I end up with Titan X GPU's in return maybe


ill send you the boxes, is that good enough?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ill send you the boxes, is that good enough?


Nope









This is why I stated "*GPU'S*"


----------



## szeged

ill trade the air coolers for the waterblocks?


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Just put in a order for the rest of my EK goodies







Now I'm waiting to get my Parvum case and it will be complete .!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ill trade the air coolers for the waterblocks?












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*
> 
> Just put in a order for the rest of my EK goodies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm waiting to get my Parvum case and it will be complete .!


Nice! EK + Parvum = A Happy Akira


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice! EK + Parvum = A Happy Akira


Yes I'm having a bit of custom stuff done to the s2.0 also


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*
> 
> Yes I'm having a bit of custom stuff done to the s2.0 also


Are you going to have a build log?


----------



## DanWoodsPcMods

Can other waterblocks be ordered gold plated to match this block.

Doing an Iron Man themed build so it would be great.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanWoodsPcMods*
> 
> Can other waterblocks be ordered gold plated to match this block.
> 
> Doing an Iron Man themed build so it would be great.


No sorry this is the only one.


----------



## DanWoodsPcMods

Thanks for the fast reply, I will tring find my own gold plater.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> So when should we be able to buy these at retailers in the US? I'd like three, please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, just making sure, this is the right bridge for these, correct?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi.html


woah...titan x is out already? really? and still no 980 kingpin block? -___-


----------



## KoNLaR

Wanted to share my first custom loop build with you guys so here it is








Specs: http://pcpartpicker.com/b/wsZ8TW


----------



## Georgey123

Its the new Titan X block from EK, (just saw you edited your post)


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Its the new Titan X block from EK, (just saw you edited your post)


yeah i figured it out....really ticking me off honestly. They have time to throw out a block for the titan x and haven't even bothered with the 980 kingpin. Hell i would've just waited and got titan x's if i knew they'd be released this quickly. I've NEVER seen a card come out so fast after first being teased. now i'm stuck with two 980 kingpins and no blocks for them...


----------



## Costas

^^^ Yeh I always try and ensure that blocks are actually available before rushing out to buy a card but sometimes our emotions get in the way....


----------



## DanWoodsPcMods

Thank you EK for making this stunning block on my GPU I got today.


----------



## EK-123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanWoodsPcMods*
> 
> Thank you EK for making this stunning block on my GPU I got today.


Nice photo, very intimate







Enjoy the performance and if you will need anything else you know where to find us.

Mark
EKWB CEO


----------



## DanWoodsPcMods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK-CEO*
> 
> Nice photo, very intimate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy the performance and if you will need anything else you know where to find us.
> 
> Mark
> EKWB CEO


I only joined the forum today and already Loving it, will have a work log up very soon of my Iron Man themed Parvum.

Here is the start of it all.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> yeah i figured it out....really ticking me off honestly. *They have time to throw out a block for the titan x and haven't even bothered with the 980 kingpin*. Hell i would've just waited and got titan x's if i knew they'd be released this quickly. I've NEVER seen a card come out so fast after first being teased. now i'm stuck with two 980 kingpins and no blocks for them...


Before making that kind of comments, you should remember how many times I mentioned to others and EVEN TO YOU what I will AGAIN say!!!!

The Kingpin waterblock isn't totally an EK product. We have to work with EVGA in this and this tends to stretch conception decisions times.

The Titan X block is another story since we work by ourselves with what Nvidia has send us.

So do we "bother" or not?????????


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Before making that kind of comments, you should remember how many times I mentioned to others and EVEN TO YOU what I will AGAIN say!!!!
> 
> The Kingpin waterblock isn't totally an EK product. We have to work with EVGA in this and this tends to stretch conception decisions times.
> 
> The Titan X block is another story since we work by ourselves with what Nvidia has send us.
> 
> So do we "bother" or not?????????


last i saw the kingpin block was scrapped, is that true? not that i care anymore, i only need titan x blocks now









just curious because if it was scrapped i have a feeling it was due to evga and not ek.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> last i saw the kingpin block was scrapped, is that true? not that i care anymore, i only need titan x blocks now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just curious because if it was scrapped i have a feeling it was due to evga and not ek.


If it was ditched, this news didn't come to my ears so I hope it isn't true. I will try to confirm this quickly.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> If it was ditched, this news didn't come to my ears so I hope it isn't true. I will try to confirm this quickly.


someone posted it in the kingpin thread as a quote from a customer service inquiry so idk if it was a good fake and he was trolling us or if it was true.

if it was scrapped i still <3 you guys







EK is gonna make a small fortune off me today...well i guess some of it gets to go to PPCs also.


----------



## Kimir

I don't really get why you have to work with evga for the KPE block.
You should just make it the classy one, unless it will be an evga branded block.
In that case I don't get it either, it's a card made for LN2, the card took long enough to be available, if there is again a long wait for the block, no one's gonna bother..
I for once, planned to get an uni block with everything else I need.


----------



## tiborrr12

Here's my new little rig, thanks to In Win for the chassis. It was in bright orange which I can't really stand (oh the irony







) so it was powdercoated black. Everything done in about 3 hours.













Specs:
- MSI Z97I Gaming AC
- 2x8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3-2400
- EVGA GTX 970 ACX 2.0
- 2x Crucial MX100 256GB in RAID0
- 1x WD 1TB FAEX
- EVGA G2 1000W PSU


----------



## szeged

wow looks really good! nicely done.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I don't really get why you have to work with evga for the KPE block.
> You should just make it the classy one, unless it will be an evga branded block.
> In that case I don't get it either, it's a card made for LN2, the card took long enough to be available, if there is again a long wait for the block, no one's gonna bother..
> I for once, planned to get an uni block with everything else I need.


It might end up being an EVGA HydroCopper only block so this is why we work with them...


----------



## snef

mmmmmmmm Gold


----------



## tSgt

Paint me those memory slots please









Other than that, looking good ! Too bad the normal people can't get gold plated blocks


----------



## FrancisJF

@akira749, you guys should do gold plated.


----------



## jcde7ago

Anyone know what the deal is with the Titan X blocks and backplates? I placed an order for a pair of each last night and got put on backorder...received an email this morning stating that the backplates were delayed until 3/23. I'm guessing EK will hold the entire order until the backplates are in stock? Does this mean they at least fulfilled the order for the 2 blocks?


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Before making that kind of comments, you should remember how many times I mentioned to others and EVEN TO YOU what I will AGAIN say!!!!
> 
> The Kingpin waterblock isn't totally an EK product. We have to work with EVGA in this and this tends to stretch conception decisions times.
> 
> The Titan X block is another story since we work by ourselves with what Nvidia has send us.
> 
> So do we "bother" or not?????????


That's wrong and you know it. There's no reason why EVGA being involved should cause such a huge delay in even TELLING us about the block. we have NO info, zero, zilch. Nobody at EK has even taken the time to put the kingpin card on their site at all!!! All i'm asking for is some kind of acknowledgement that there will even BE a block, and there are a couple people who talked to EVGA who were told there are no plans for a block. I contacted them myself and they said that it's in EK's hands, not theirs, and this is jacob we're talking about not just some grunt.

And the titan x was just teased only a few weeks ago and the blocks already out, while the regular classy block took months and months to make, which further stresses the double standard that owners of classified style blocks face. I'm just gonna have to sell my kingpin cards now somehow because it's becoming more and more apparent that there are either no plans at all to make a block or that it will be a 6 month stall fest like the last classy block. I love EK, but no matter what you say, they dropped the ball here...period. There's just no reason for evga to cause a delay here, and you said yourself you don't even know if it's gonna be a HC block or not. Isn't that kind of important to know? If it's not then the past several weeks is time wasted that could've been used working on a regular one, and if it is then it's time that could've been used communicating with evga and (more importantly) the customers letting them know what's going on.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcde7ago*
> 
> Anyone know what the deal is with the Titan X blocks and backplates? I placed an order for a pair of each last night and got put on backorder...received an email this morning stating that the backplates were delayed until 3/23. I'm guessing EK will hold the entire order until the backplates are in stock? Does this mean they at least fulfilled the order for the 2 blocks?


Depending on the color of your backplate, the delay will differ a bit.

Your order will be on hold until the backplates are ready for your order.

Ref : http://www.overclock.net/t/1546713/ek-fc-titan-x-the-geforce-gtx-titan-x-full-cover-water-block/10#post_23682422


----------



## DarkIdeals

I'm sorry akira, i suppose i'm being a bit too harsh on you guys at EK. But it's only because i really like EK so much that i want them to do well in things. Just understand my position hearing that $1,600 investment i made may not even have a waterblock made for it at all. I submitted twice to the cooling config site with pictures of the card and whatnot and it's still not there. I just want someone to give me "some" kind of estimate regarding if there will even be one, will it be HC block, and a "rough" idea of how long it "might" take.

I'm really starting to consider selling the two 980 kingpins i got and try to get titan x's. Which really makes me torn as i love the look and design and concept etc.. of the kingpin.


----------



## szeged

ek does have blocks for the kingpin


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> That's wrong and you know it. There's no reason why EVGA being involved should cause such a huge delay in even TELLING us about the block. we have NO info, zero, zilch. Nobody at EK has even taken the time to put the kingpin card on their site at all!!! All i'm asking for is some kind of acknowledgement that there will even BE a block, and there are a couple people who talked to EVGA who were told there are no plans for a block. I contacted them myself and they said that it's in EK's hands, not theirs, and this is jacob we're talking about not just some grunt.
> 
> And the titan x was just teased only a few weeks ago and the blocks already out, while the regular classy block took months and months to make, which further stresses the double standard that owners of classified style blocks face. I'm just gonna have to sell my kingpin cards now somehow because it's becoming more and more apparent that there are either no plans at all to make a block or that it will be a 6 month stall fest like the last classy block. I love EK, but no matter what you say, they dropped the ball here...period. There's just no reason for evga to cause a delay here, and you said yourself you don't even know if it's gonna be a HC block or not. Isn't that kind of important to know? If it's not then the past several weeks is time wasted that could've been used working on a regular one, and if it is then it's time that could've been used communicating with evga and (more importantly) the customers letting them know what's going on.


But if EVGA says to them they want to collaborate on a card for whatever its many more eyes on them and approval processes etc. If they went behind evga and made another card that would be sold instead it woukd damage the relationship as evga would be cut out conpletely snf people would order that instead. It sounds like a balance of cooperation is needed between the two for us to keep getting the blocks we desire. Now im not saying it doesnt suck for you since you have these cards which youre waiting to get blocks for, i too woukd be sad that i couldnt water cool it dont get me wrong. also knoeing demand for such a thing woukd matter as well.

I do hope you get your blocks though


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 
> 
> ek does have blocks for the kingpin


I know....which is why i'm so torn. I ordered my SMA8 case and i just don't think uni blocks will look any good with acrylic tubing like i'm using. And then i'm low on cash after spending $4k on all the parts for this pc, so if i buy uni blocks now i won't be able to afford full cover if and when they are released. I specifically bought my kingpin cards so i could use them with the beautiful plexi ek terminal and blocks etc.. and you can't use terminals with uni blocks since the thermosphere and supremacy bridge edition apparently don't fit the classy cards. And nobody has confirmed whether the 780 ti classy block will fit this card so i'm basically out of options.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> But if EVGA says to them they want to collaborate on a card for whatever its many more eyes on them and approval processes etc. If they went behind evga and made another card that would be sold instead it woukd damage the relationship as evga would be cut out conpletely snf people would order that instead. It sounds like a balance of cooperation is needed between the two for us to keep getting the blocks we desire. Now im not saying it doesnt suck for you since you have these cards which youre waiting to get blocks for, i too woukd be sad that i couldnt water cool it dont get me wrong. also knoeing demand for such a thing woukd matter as well.
> 
> I do hope you get your blocks though


Except the block people desire is a regular ek one, most people don't want a hydro copper block. I find them ugly as sin to be honest. And as Akira mentioned, nobody actually knows that it will or won't be a hydro copper EVGA block or not. He's basically just guessing from what he's said so far i'd say. And EK hasn't even put the kingpin card on the coolingconfig site yet, but the titan x is right there even though it "just" now came out. It just feels like a double standard that there still isn't ANY info on the block at all. And EVGA is saying there won't be any blocks for the KP, which directly contradicts what is being said here about working on a hydro copper one; if there's not going to be a block then these cards are literally USELESS to me.


----------



## Lyxchoklad

Hi. Does anyone in the EK Club know when the CoolStream 140's will be released? All I can find are the 120's (PE) and 180's (WE).


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Except the block people desire is a regular ek one, most people don't want a hydro copper block. I find them ugly as sin to be honest. And as Akira mentioned, nobody actually knows that it will or won't be a hydro copper EVGA block or not. He's basically just guessing from what he's said so far i'd say. And EK hasn't even put the kingpin card on the coolingconfig site yet, but the titan x is right there even though it "just" now came out. It just feels like a double standard that there still isn't ANY info on the block at all. And EVGA is saying there won't be any blocks for the KP, which directly contradicts what is being said here about working on a hydro copper one; if there's not going to be a block then these cards are literally USELESS to me.


if you want waterblock support right away then dont buy a classified or kingpin card.


----------



## jcde7ago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Depending on the color of your backplate, the delay will differ a bit.
> 
> Your order will be on hold until the backplates are ready for your order.
> 
> Ref : http://www.overclock.net/t/1546713/ek-fc-titan-x-the-geforce-gtx-titan-x-full-cover-water-block/10#post_23682422


Thanks Akira. I can run the Titan Xs on air for a week...I suppose.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Mmmmmm. I love gold got a gold supremacy evo, are these custom annoed?


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> if you want waterblock support right away then dont buy a classified or kingpin card.


lol, that's rich. I never said i wanted the block "right now" i said i want to know if there will even BE one!! The fact that Ek has no info at all, and evga says there won't be one is bs tbh. I bought these cards only after being promised by people at ek that there would definitely be a full cover block. And this just leads right into what the problem is...why is there no support for classified cards for months and months after release when every single other popular non-reference design from gigabyte/msi/asus etc.. gets one far quicker? You talk about it as though it's something that just "is", something that just happens. But i'm saying it "shouldn't" be that way. I was told when i contacted EK that a block would definitely be made and that it was even being worked on as we speak, but now the story is different. The point is that i would've never bought the cards without being given that promise.


----------



## szeged

then dont buy the super niche card that was made for ln2? buy something else like a reference card or a strix, they usually get their blocks much faster.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> then dont buy the super niche card that was made for ln2? buy something else like a reference card or a strix, they usually get their blocks much faster.


is there an echo in here? you just repeated your last post basically. And as if the $1,000 titan x isn't a niche card too? And you're basically proving my point anyway, the strix is a non reference card, meaning a custom block has to be designed for it, so it should take a while to make. Although it takes like 1/10th of the time as it takes for even a regular classified block to come out.

And i forgot you were the one who thinks that these cards are somehow only for LN2, and water cooling is somehow dumb or something on kp cards, which explains why my words are going over your head. Haven't you considered that some people don't want a weaker reference card? Some people want the best performance? Again, i just want "INFORMATION" about the block, that is IT. If someone could at least tell me for sure that a block will be made, to contradict what evga themselves has said, and what kind of block it will be then i'd be happy. But for some reason there is literally zero info out about the block even a month after release it isn't even listed on the ek site anywhere.


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> is there an echo in here? you just repeated your last post basically. And as if the $1,000 titan x isn't a niche card too? And you're basically proving my point anyway, the strix is a non reference card, meaning a custom block has to be designed for it, so it should take a while to make. Although it takes like 1/10th of the time as it takes for even a regular classified block to come out.
> 
> And i forgot you were the one who thinks that these cards are somehow only for LN2, and water cooling is somehow dumb or something on kp cards, which explains why my words are going over your head. Haven't you considered that some people don't want a weaker reference card? Some people want the best performance? Again, i just want "INFORMATION" about the block, that is IT. If someone could at least tell me for sure that a block will be made, to contradict what evga themselves has said, and what kind of block it will be then i'd be happy. But for some reason there is literally zero info out about the block even a month after release it isn't even listed on the ek site anywhere.


Would be shocked if Titan X didn't outsell KP 980's at the least at a 20 to 1 ratio. So no, compared to the KP the Titan X is most definitely not a niche card.

Does the KP even offer any noticeable difference (outside the margin of error) over a Classy edition when only using air/water? On LN2, sure I bet it smokes the classy there, but I'd be willing to bet on air/water there wouldn't even be a difference between them.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> lol, that's rich. I never said i wanted the block "right now" i said i want to know if there will even BE one!! The fact that Ek has no info at all, and evga says there won't be one is bs tbh. I bought these cards only after being promised by people at ek that there would definitely be a full cover block. And this just leads right into what the problem is...why is there no support for classified cards for months and months after release when every single other popular non-reference design from gigabyte/msi/asus etc.. gets one far quicker? You talk about it as though it's something that just "is", something that just happens. But i'm saying it "shouldn't" be that way. I was told when i contacted EK that a block would definitely be made and that it was even being worked on as we speak, but now the story is different. The point is that i would've never bought the cards without being given that promise.


As a note, the MSI Gaming 4G blocks barely came out before the Classified ones did.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Would be shocked if Titan X didn't outsell KP 980's at the least at a 20 to 1 ratio. So no, compared to the KP the Titan X is most definitely not a niche card.
> 
> Does the KP even offer any noticeable difference (outside the margin of error) over a Classy edition when only using air/water? On LN2, sure I bet it smokes the classy there, but I'd be willing to bet on air/water there wouldn't even be a difference between them.


Nope, even on water there's differences. People here on OCN have been hitting over 1,750 core 8,000 mem clock on water with kingpin 980s. And that's even with the bios's being messed up not providing the proper values so vince is working on new ones which will make it even more of a difference. Mine on AIR cooling straight out of the box boosts not to 1418mhz like it's supposed to, but 1455mhz on both cards, and i reached 1,592mhz core 7,300 memory easily using only precision x with no classy tool/stock voltages etc.. whereas the regular classy boosts to ~1400mhz stock and only oc's to ~1,575mhz core on air most of the time. On water the classy typically sticks around 1,600-1,650mhz core most of the time although it always depends on the silicon of course.

And i'm sorry but i just don't believe the 20:1 statement. There's no doubt it will outsell the 980 KP, but not by a whole lot, maybe 3:1 or 5:1 at most and that's still being VERY conservative. It is a $1,000 card afterall, and only comes in reference cooler so air cooling users will likely pass it over unless EVGA makes an ACX 2.0 cooler that can be purchased seperately like they did with the older TITAN models.

I understand that custom cards take longer to get blocks, that's common knowledge, but to not hear a single word of an ETA, for the card to be completely missing form the site at all, and having EK say it's in EVGA's hands while EVGA says that there WON'T be a block or that it's up to EK whether there will be just doesn't pass the smell test if you know what i mean. I like EK, and i don't mind waiting a "reasonable" amount of time for a block, but i was promised by EK reps that there would be a non hydro copper block made for this card and that it was already being designed.

I'm thinking of getting an EK VGA Supremacy block but i hate that i can't use the EK terminal/bridge and i haven't seen any pictures of anyone using these blocks on a kp 980 with acrylic tubing and i'm just imagining it won't look very good especially compared to ek nickel/plexi full blocks.


----------



## szeged

i bet nvidia has already sold more titan xs than the kingpin 980 sold.

also all three of my 980 classifieds did around 1780 core on water with 9000 memory.

kingpin does around 1700 core on water, 8400 memory.

The real difference is when these cards start getting really cold, then the kingpin pulls ahead.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> As a note, the MSI Gaming 4G blocks barely came out before the Classified ones did.


That is true, but iirc the 4G cards were released later in the cycle as well. Either way it's not right, i imagine 4g customers were equally upset at it. I understand that things happen, building products takes time, but when one product is obviously given far more attention than others it isn't right. Look how many people bought the regular classy and had to wait so many months for it even though EK promised them a release date much earlier and kept delaying it? But as i said, things happen, so it's "kind of" understandable, but in this case we don't have a single bit of information about the block or if there even IS one. And i'm not too happy about being lied to by an EK employee stating that there not only was a regular non hydro copper block but that it was already being worked on, and this was back in late january early february-ish. I just want some information, that's all. After hearing evga say there won't be a hydro copper block and it's up to EK whether there will be any block at all for it i'm justifiably concerned, these cards will be useless to me if a block isn't made for them, and i would never have made the purchase if i wasn't told that the block was already in development.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i bet nvidia has already sold more titan xs than the kingpin 980 sold.
> 
> also all three of my 980 classifieds did around 1780 core on water with 9000 memory.
> 
> kingpin does around 1700 core on water, 8400 memory.
> 
> The real difference is when these cards start getting really cold, then the kingpin pulls ahead.


I'm not one to propose to know someone else's experiences, but i call bs on that, all of it. The TITAN X is still in stock and has been for the last day or two-ish, while the kingpin cards are constantly out of stock, so much that ebay hawkers are getting away with selling them for $1,200+ every day.
And I haven't seen a single person with a regular classified get anywhere near that at below 1.4v with chilled water setups with absurd delta t's. With normal water cooling setups at 24/7 safe voltages (~1.3) the classy typically gets around the 1,600-1,625mhz range while the kingpin goes towards 1,650-1,700mhz. There are plenty of people getting far better scores on kingpins than classy's and the custom bios's are all messed up currently so it will get much better once a decent bios is released.

The two kingpins i have now are much better than the two classifieds i had before for a while in clock speeds.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> I'm not one to propose to know someone else's experiences, but i call bs on that, all of it. The TITAN X is still in stock and has been for the last day or two-ish, while the kingpin cards are constantly out of stock, so much that ebay hawkers are getting away with selling them for $1,200+ every day.
> *And I haven't seen a single person with a regular classified get anywhere near that* at below 1.4v with chilled water setups with absurd delta t's. There are plenty of people getting far better scores on kingpins than classy's and the custom bios's are all messed up currently so it will get much better once a decent bios is released.
> 
> The two kingpins i have now are much better than the two classifieds i had before for a while in clock speeds.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








ambient temp water.

should probably not bog down the ek club thread with these pictures though.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Nope, even on water there's differences. People here on OCN have been hitting over 1,750 core 8,000 mem clock on water with kingpin 980s. And that's even with the bios's being messed up not providing the proper values so vince is working on new ones which will make it even more of a difference. Mine on AIR cooling straight out of the box boosts not to 1418mhz like it's supposed to, but 1455mhz on both cards, and i reached 1,592mhz core 7,300 memory easily using only precision x with no classy tool/stock voltages etc.. whereas the regular classy boosts to ~1400mhz stock and only oc's to ~1,575mhz core on air most of the time. On water the classy typically sticks around 1,600-1,650mhz core most of the time although it always depends on the silicon of course.
> 
> And i'm sorry but i just don't believe the 20:1 statement. There's no doubt it will outsell the 980 KP, but not by a whole lot, maybe 3:1 or 5:1 at most and that's still being VERY conservative. It is a $1,000 card afterall, and only comes in reference cooler so air cooling users will likely pass it over unless EVGA makes an ACX 2.0 cooler that can be purchased seperately like they did with the older TITAN models.
> 
> I understand that custom cards take longer to get blocks, that's common knowledge, but to not hear a single word of an ETA, for the card to be completely missing form the site at all, and having EK say it's in EVGA's hands while EVGA says that there WON'T be a block or that it's up to EK whether there will be just doesn't pass the smell test if you know what i mean. I like EK, and i don't mind waiting a "reasonable" amount of time for a block, but i was promised by EK reps that there would be a non hydro copper block made for this card and that it was already being designed.
> 
> I'm thinking of getting an EK VGA Supremacy block but i hate that i can't use the EK terminal/bridge and i haven't seen any pictures of anyone using these blocks on a kp 980 with acrylic tubing and i'm just imagining it won't look very good especially compared to ek nickel/plexi full blocks.


I think I just realized what's going on now. EK designed the hydrocoppers right? They probably had to sign a no-compete clause as part of the deal for a specified period of time. The specified period of time is also stipulated with a non disclosure agreement. So while EK is allowed to say "yes we are making a block for the KP 980's, they cannot say when it will be released until the time period stipulated in the contract with EVGA has passed.

Basically the only response you are legally able to get is "yes, we are working on a block but cannot say when it will be available." I'm almost positive that's what's going on here now.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ambient temp water.
> 
> should probably not bog down the ek club thread with these pictures though.


Huh, interesting. How are you getting GPU-Z to show past 1.21v? Of course the real voltage is far above that right?

I can tell you right now though you got a perfect chip if those numbers are right, because i haven't seen a single other person hit that level with a regular classified without crashing immediatly. But i've seen a handful of people hit it on kingpins already even at higher temps of 35-40C or so.


----------



## szeged

idk gpuz just started showing it randomly lol, real voltage is usually .02 or so higher than what shows on software.

as for the proof, i would link you to the firestrike hall of fame score i got there but the 3dmark site is down atm but the pictures show the firestrike runs i got at those clocks.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> I think I just realized what's going on now. EK designed the hydrocoppers right? They probably had to sign a no-compete clause as part of the deal for a specified period of time. The specified period of time is also stipulated with a non disclosure agreement. So while EK is allowed to say "yes we are making a block for the KP 980's, they cannot say when it will be released until the time period stipulated in the contract with EVGA has passed.
> 
> Basically the only response you are legally able to get is "yes, we are working on a block but cannot say when it will be available." I'm almost positive that's what's going on here now.


I really doubt that. If that was the case then why would evga be telling us that there is no hydro copper block? And i'm not even really asking for an ETA specifically, (although that would be VERY nice to know) i'm just a bit concerned that the 980 kingpin is basically ignored for the most part. If you look on the EKWB website it's nowhere to be found, go look in coolingconfigurator and it's not on the list even though i took pictures and submitted the form to have it put on the list twice. It just seems like they don't care about this card or something, and i really hope that's not true.

Does anyone have pictures of a classified or kingpin card using EK universal blocks with acrylic tubing? That's the main reason i haven't bought a universal block, (well that and i can't afford to get full covers later if i get these) i'm not so sure it will look decent in my setup. I'm using a caselabs SMA8 in black with two of the 980 kingpins in SLI, a rampage IV black mobo, 16gb of corsair dominator platinum ram, an EK 250mm cylinder reservoir and three radiators; an XSPC EX480, a Black Ice GTX360, and an EK XTC 420. So i'm wondering of a way to make it look good since i can't use terminals or bridges and it won't look nearly as good as a full cover block; although the kingpin has the advantage of single slot brackets and the vrm/mosfet plate to make it look better with the uni block.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> I really doubt that. If that was the case then why would evga be telling us that there is no hydro copper block? And i'm not even really asking for an ETA specifically, (although that would be VERY nice to know) i'm just a bit concerned that the 980 kingpin is basically ignored for the most part. If you look on the EKWB website it's nowhere to be found, go look in coolingconfigurator and it's not on the list even though i took pictures and submitted the form to have it put on the list twice. It just seems like they don't care about this card or something, and i really hope that's not true.
> 
> Does anyone have pictures of a classified or kingpin card using EK universal blocks with acrylic tubing? That's the main reason i haven't bought a universal block, (well that and i can't afford to get full covers later if i get these) i'm not so sure it will look decent in my setup. I'm using a caselabs SMA8 in black with two of the 980 kingpins in SLI, a rampage IV black mobo, 16gb of corsair dominator platinum ram, an EK 250mm cylinder reservoir and three radiators; an XSPC EX480, a Black Ice GTX360, and an EK XTC 420. So i'm wondering of a way to make it look good since i can't use terminals or bridges and it won't look nearly as good as a full cover block; although the kingpin has the advantage of single slot brackets and the vrm/mosfet plate to make it look better with the uni block.


ill take a pic of my uni block kingpin with acrylic in a few minutes. note that it wont look great because i only set it up how it is for functionality while i waited for titan x's.


----------



## krel

Is there any reason to use a backplate aside from aesthetics?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> Is there any reason to use a backplate aside from aesthetics?


They help keep your GPU from sagging. Same as what should happen when I put my full card heatsinks under Thermospheres and connect them with an SLi connector. My board is 180 so back plates are overkill imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ill take a pic of my uni block kingpin with acrylic in a few minutes. note that it wont look great because i only set it up how it is for functionality while i waited for titan x's.


Thanks









And sorry if i sounded rude earlier btw, i've been kinda stressed lately.

I'm starting to wonder if i'd be better of with SLI TITAN X's, i love the look and design and concept of the kingpin, and i'm going to be using a 1440p ROG Swift monitor that i just ordered rather than 4k so i figured 980s were enough and i just made sure to get the best 980s possible. But the TITAN X's, although having much "uglier" pcb and overall look, would have a full cover block available already and thus i could use plexi EK terminals too. Although i'm not sure if i could afford it, i'd have to sell my 980 kingpins and then spend ~$400 more on the TITAN X's and then $350 on waterblocks, backplates, and a terminal.


----------



## krel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They help keep your GPU from sagging. Same as what should happen when I put my full card heatsinks under Thermospheres and connect them with an SLi connector. My board is 180 so back plates are overkill imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ok. My case has the motherboard horizontal rather than vertical, so it sounds like I'm good to skip them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Unless you want to bring it up.









~Ceadder


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Are you going to have a build log?


Probably not a full on build thread but maybe my own thread with completed photos. My PerformancePCS order got messed up and it will be another week before I can buy the Parvum. Gotta sell a bunch of stuff first.


----------



## friskiest




----------



## ssiperko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> Is there any reason to use a backplate aside from aesthetics?


Yeap.



SS


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssiperko*
> 
> Yeap.
> 
> 
> 
> SS


Homoerotica ?


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssiperko*
> 
> Yeap.
> 
> 
> 
> SS


Reminds me of this:


----------



## SteezyTN

I'm thinking about taking the $1100 I made off selling my 6GB 780's (2) and getting a single Titan X and the Waterblock. Less power, and probably better than 2 way SLI 780.


----------



## DanWoodsPcMods

Hey guys do these fit the maximus VII gene aswell

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/chipset-blocks/intel-z87-series/ek-sb-asus-m6g-nickel.html


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sorry if i sounded rude earlier btw, i've been kinda stressed lately.
> 
> I'm starting to wonder if i'd be better of with SLI TITAN X's, i love the look and design and concept of the kingpin, and i'm going to be using a 1440p ROG Swift monitor that i just ordered rather than 4k so i figured 980s were enough and i just made sure to get the best 980s possible. But the TITAN X's, although having much "uglier" pcb and overall look, would have a full cover block available already and thus i could use plexi EK terminals too. Although i'm not sure if i could afford it, i'd have to sell my 980 kingpins and then spend ~$400 more on the TITAN X's and then $350 on waterblocks, backplates, and a terminal.


Who cares if it is a ugly PCB it performs better and if you have to worry about if you can afford it why get a overpriced monitor???


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanWoodsPcMods*
> 
> Hey guys do these fit the maximus VII gene aswell
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/chipset-blocks/intel-z87-series/ek-sb-asus-m6g-nickel.html


Yep









http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109815359


----------



## DanWoodsPcMods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109815359


awesome thanks, any ETA on when they will be back in stock.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanWoodsPcMods*
> 
> awesome thanks, any ETA on when they will be back in stock.


No sorry I don't know. I will try to find out.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sorry if i sounded rude earlier btw, i've been kinda stressed lately.
> 
> I'm starting to wonder if i'd be better of with SLI TITAN X's, i love the look and design and concept of the kingpin, and i'm going to be using a 1440p ROG Swift monitor that i just ordered rather than 4k so i figured 980s were enough and i just made sure to get the best 980s possible. But the TITAN X's, although having much "uglier" pcb and overall look, would have a full cover block available already and thus i could use plexi EK terminals too. Although i'm not sure if i could afford it, i'd have to sell my 980 kingpins and then spend ~$400 more on the TITAN X's and then $350 on waterblocks, backplates, and a terminal.


Just get a Qnix 2710. Best upgrade I ever got for my computer. Will never go back to 1080p or 60hz, and it was only $320. Just be sure to get the matte version, the glossy version is using a sub standard panel now.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Just get a Qnix 2710. Best upgrade I ever got for my computer. Will never go back to 1080p or 60hz, and it was only $320. Just be sure to get the matte version, the glossy version is using a sub standard panel now.


I second that! I picked up a pixel perfect for 350 with amazon. ( I have it overclocked to 100hz) Will never go back to 1080

TCO


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanWoodsPcMods*
> 
> awesome thanks, any ETA on when they will be back in stock.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No sorry I don't know. I will try to find out.


I'm sorry to inform you that this block is now "End Of Life" I asked the guys that manage the website to put the EOL flag on to avoid confusion.

I found the Acetal version (1 block left) at Performance-PCs in the USA and the Nickel version (1 block left) at Overclocker.co.uk in the UK.
If I remember, you're in Australia so it might not be the best shipping wise but if you want it those one have one left.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/hot-ek-sb-asus-m6g-nickel-acetal.html

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-490-EK


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I second that! I picked up a pixel perfect for 350 with amazon. ( I have it overclocked to 100hz) Will never go back to 1080
> 
> TCO


whats so revolutionary for you over 1080p? Just asking your opinion. I havent looked into anything over 1080p and probably eont until the prices go down as i would have to replace 3 monitors.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> whats so revolutionary for you over 1080p? Just asking your opinion. I havent looked into anything over 1080p and probably eont until the prices go down as i would have to replace 3 monitors.


Well the clarity for one is unlike anything I have yet to see from 1080p. The Depth is far better. Hard to explain! I think pixel difference is 81ppi for 1080p to 108ppi for 1440p.

More space on the desktop. You can fit more windows in one area.

The Cautious One

It really does look better!


----------



## Alex132

The difference from 1080p to 1440p was much larger than I expected tbh. And going from a crappy TN panel to a good IPS panel is.... amazing.
It's just a shame that this Dell display has so much input latency thanks to all the extra added crap on the board









I mean really, get rid everything but 1 DP input, and provide mDP->DP + DVI->DP + DP cable in the box IMO.

Monitors REALLY need to come with DP cables, I'm pretty sure that's a large reasoning why many aren't using them tbh.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Well the clarity for one is unlike anything I have yet to see from 1080p. The Depth is far better. Hard to explain! I think pixel difference is 81ppi for 1080p to 108ppi for 1440p.
> 
> More space on the desktop. You can fit more windows in one area.
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> It really does look better!


You would recommend this monitor then??


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You would recommend this monitor then??


I will Link what I purchased Sir.

Amazon Qnix Pixel Perfect (Linked From my Purchased Page)

I've had zero problems with it (Possible to keep overclocking If I needed to, I only have a single 780 EVGA FTW so 100hz was plenty enough) and did not want to jump on the bandwagon of an 800+ Rog Swift monitor.

I recieved the monitor in about 4 days after I pressed buy.

The Cautious One


----------



## neSSa

My rig...


----------



## guitarhero23

Sweet rig. Love that its unique


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sorry if i sounded rude earlier btw, i've been kinda stressed lately.
> 
> I'm starting to wonder if i'd be better of with SLI TITAN X's, i love the look and design and concept of the kingpin, and i'm going to be using a 1440p ROG Swift monitor that i just ordered rather than 4k so i figured 980s were enough and i just made sure to get the best 980s possible. But the TITAN X's, although having much "uglier" pcb and overall look, would have a full cover block available already and thus i could use plexi EK terminals too. Although i'm not sure if i could afford it, i'd have to sell my 980 kingpins and then spend ~$400 more on the TITAN X's and then $350 on waterblocks, backplates, and a terminal.


I would keep the 980 kingpins they are going to perform better for gaming I think.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> My rig...


Bada$$, that is red tubing and not coolant right?


----------



## neSSa

Yes tubes is RED, coolant is destilated water.


----------



## krel

I have a question that you guys hopefully will be able to answer. I have a custom loop consisting at the moment of three alphacool monsta radiators (copper), an alphacool combo pump/reservoir, an EK CPU block (copper). Tubing is standard clear stuff, and I used Koolance QD3 connectors. Coolant is only distilled water, no additives, with a silver killcoil in the reservoir. The last time I popped one of the QDs it had white residue on it, which was causing the QD to not close correctly when it was separated (no leaks or anything while connected.) What is that white residue, and what can I do about it? In the next week or two I'll be taking it apart to clean everything and add my GPU blocks in, so this is a great time to get this sorted out as well.

Thanks!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> I have a question that you guys hopefully will be able to answer. I have a custom loop consisting at the moment of three alphacool monsta radiators (copper), an alphacool combo pump/reservoir, an EK CPU block (copper). Tubing is standard clear stuff, and I used Koolance QD3 connectors. Coolant is only distilled water, no additives, with a silver killcoil in the reservoir. The last time I popped one of the QDs it had white residue on it, which was causing the QD to not close correctly when it was separated (no leaks or anything while connected.) What is that white residue, and what can I do about it? In the next week or two I'll be taking it apart to clean everything and add my GPU blocks in, so this is a great time to get this sorted out as well.
> 
> Thanks!


Your QD3 are the silver ones or the black ones?


----------



## krel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Your QD3 are the silver ones or the black ones?


They are black.

http://koolance.com/qd3-ms10x13-bk-quick-disconnect-no-spill-coupling-male-for-10mm-x-13mm-3-8in-x-1-2in-black


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> They are black.
> 
> http://koolance.com/qd3-ms10x13-bk-quick-disconnect-no-spill-coupling-male-for-10mm-x-13mm-3-8in-x-1-2in-black


You might want to read this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1404275/black-koolance-quick-disconnect-owners/0_50


----------



## guitarhero23

Are the silver ones ok?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> They are black.
> 
> http://koolance.com/qd3-ms10x13-bk-quick-disconnect-no-spill-coupling-male-for-10mm-x-13mm-3-8in-x-1-2in-black


Then you have found your problem.

I have had black QD4 on my bench in the past and they all end up with the exact same issue you're currently experiencing. I have done some research and also heard from black QD3 and QD4 owners and a big amount of users have had the same problem.

It's the black paint on the QD that reacts with the coolant/water very disappointed from Koolance on this. And every silver QD users never had any of these problems.


----------



## krel

yeah, looks like that's it. Damnit. From that thread, it sounds like Koolance isn't exactly big on standing by their products, either. Frankly, they should be swapping them out for silver ones on demand over something like this.

Wonder if they could be soaked in something to remove the paint/plating/whatever it is without damaging the seals.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ordered Thermospheres and dual parallel bridge. Can't wait to get them!









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Are the silver ones ok?


Yeah


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Who cares if it is a ugly PCB it performs better and if you have to worry about if you can afford it why get a overpriced monitor???


I care.

And i bought the monitor before the titan x was released. And the monitor is an integral part of the build, it would be downright stupid to get a rampage iv black, I7 4820k, SLI 980 kingpins, and full water cooling loop with ek blocks and 3 radiators (one 480mm, one 360mm, one 420mm) just to use on a 1080p 60hz monitor. I got the rog swift for $600, so it's hardly overpriced for all you get out of it at $600.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Just get a Qnix 2710. Best upgrade I ever got for my computer. Will never go back to 1080p or 60hz, and it was only $320. Just be sure to get the matte version, the glossy version is using a sub standard panel now.


Indeed, it's a big jump. The only thing you're missing out on is G-Sync now. That's why i got the rog swift, it's got 8 bit color so it fixes one of the only two disadvantages of TN panels, and has 144hz guaranteed out of the box so no overclocking (and with multi-input koreans they drop frames when overclocked too) and you get the g-sync and the 1440p res but you still get the 1ms response of tn. The one thing that would've made me change my mind is if the Overlord Tempest X270OC would have gone through with the G-Sync "upgrade option" that they're considering doing. But i needed a monitor now, so i couldn't wait. And for $600 i got a good deal i'd say. I'm using my 23" ASUS VG23AH 60hz, IPS, 1080p monitor as my backup screen for use with my PS3 and stuff, i'll probably never go back to 1080p for my pc either.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> whats so revolutionary for you over 1080p? Just asking your opinion. I havent looked into anything over 1080p and probably eont until the prices go down as i would have to replace 3 monitors.


I agree with TCO, the resolution gap is larger than people think. It's slightly larger than the jump between 720p and 1080p to give you an idea. Plus it gives more screen space for web surfing and stuff. And it just looks far better, sharper image, colors "pop" more, and using DSR on it looks much better than using DSR on a 1080p screen; 1440p with 4k DSR active actually REALLY looks like a 4k screen (and i've seen 4k so i'd know). And pairing it with high refresh rates and response times, especially with G-Sync just makes you wonder how the hell you were satisfied with gaming on anything else. If you're getting three of them then i'd say get something like TCO mentioned, the QNIX ones, since it'd cost a lot of money. But if you could afford it, getting triple 1440p, 120hz+ G-Sync ones like the Swift or the new Acer IPS one will DEFINITELY be worth it. You should also check out the 34" curved ultra-wide 1440p ones since you're replacing triple screen setup. 34" ultra-wide feels almost as big as like a triple 23" setup (obvious it isn't but it does feel that way) it give you that cinematic "surround" experience, and the new Acer XR341CK coming out later this year will be 1440p, 144hz, G-Sync, 34" curved 21:9 ultra-wide, and is hinted to be an AH-VA which is even better than 90% of IPS panels. There's also going to be a non G-Sync option for those on a budget.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> I have a question that you guys hopefully will be able to answer. I have a custom loop consisting at the moment of three alphacool monsta radiators (copper), an alphacool combo pump/reservoir, an EK CPU block (copper). Tubing is standard clear stuff, and I used Koolance QD3 connectors. Coolant is only distilled water, no additives, with a silver killcoil in the reservoir. The last time I popped one of the QDs it had white residue on it, which was causing the QD to not close correctly when it was separated (no leaks or anything while connected.) What is that white residue, and what can I do about it? In the next week or two I'll be taking it apart to clean everything and add my GPU blocks in, so this is a great time to get this sorted out as well.
> 
> Thanks!


Hmm, what kind of tubing are you using? like what brand? It sounds like you have plasticizer leeching from the tubing. But it could be other things as well.

EDIT: nvm, seems you already found an answer


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> I would keep the 980 kingpins they are going to perform better for gaming I think.


You think they'd perform better than sli titan x's? They definitely wouldn't, but the question is, is it worth selling my kingpins and whatnot to get them. Considering i'm doing 144hz 1440p i might not need them possibly; although i haven't tried gaming on the new monitor much yet so i don't know what fps i can push out of these two kingpins especially once they're water cooled.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> I care.
> 
> And i bought the monitor before the titan x was released. And the monitor is an integral part of the build, it would be downright stupid to get a rampage iv black, I7 4820k, SLI 980 kingpins, and full water cooling loop with ek blocks and 3 radiators (one 480mm, one 360mm, one 420mm) just to use on a 1080p 60hz monitor. I got the rog swift for $600, so it's hardly overpriced for all you get out of it at $600.


Your limited opinion??? Much rather have the qnix than the asus myself!! Why only a 4820????


----------



## krel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Hmm, what kind of tubing are you using? like what brand? It sounds like you have plasticizer leeching from the tubing. But it could be other things as well.
> 
> EDIT: nvm, seems you already found an answer


Wish it was the tubing, but doesn't look like it.


----------



## DanWoodsPcMods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I'm sorry to inform you that this block is now "End Of Life" I asked the guys that manage the website to put the EOL flag on to avoid confusion.
> 
> I found the Acetal version (1 block left) at Performance-PCs in the USA and the Nickel version (1 block left) at Overclocker.co.uk in the UK.
> If I remember, you're in Australia so it might not be the best shipping wise but if you want it those one have one left.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/hot-ek-sb-asus-m6g-nickel-acetal.html
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-490-EK


Cost me an arm and a leg but I got it for the futre now.

Thanks again for your help my build is coming together nicely.


----------



## DanWoodsPcMods

Such an amazing bit of hardware and the block on it is amazing. So happy to have one for my next build.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> You think they'd perform better than sli titan x's? They definitely wouldn't, but the question is, is it worth selling my kingpins and whatnot to get them. Considering i'm doing 144hz 1440p i might not need them possibly; although i haven't tried gaming on the new monitor much yet so i don't know what fps i can push out of these two kingpins especially once they're water cooled.


Oh my bad thought you were saying sell the kingpins to get a single titan x. Sli titans would be killer but again they aren't made for gaming so I'd stick with the 980s esspecially since you said you'll only be running 1440p. If there's one thing I've learned in the past is if something works well why change it. Just stick with the 980 kingpins they are great cards. If down the road you don't like them then hey sell them and buy some used titan X's but it's never the best idea to buy a card right when it comes out anyway. Esspecially at the price they go for. I'm assuming you paid a pretty penny for the kingpins already?


----------



## Ceadderman

That Ares kit is super smexy.









~Ceadder


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> You think they'd perform better than sli titan x's? They definitely wouldn't, but the question is, is it worth selling my kingpins and whatnot to get them. Considering i'm doing 144hz 1440p i might not need them possibly; although i haven't tried gaming on the new monitor much yet so i don't know what fps i can push out of these two kingpins especially once they're water cooled.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh my bad thought you were saying sell the kingpins to get a single titan x. Sli titans would be killer but again they aren't made for gaming so I'd stick with the 980s esspecially since you said you'll only be running 1440p. If there's one thing I've learned in the past is if something works well why change it. Just stick with the 980 kingpins they are great cards. If down the road you don't like them then hey sell them and buy some used titan X's but it's never the best idea to buy a card right when it comes out anyway. Esspecially at the price they go for. I'm assuming you paid a pretty penny for the kingpins already?
Click to expand...

Titan X is purely for gaming.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> I agree with TCO, the resolution gap is larger than people think. It's slightly larger than the jump between 720p and 1080p to give you an idea. Plus it gives more screen space for web surfing and stuff. And it just looks far better, sharper image, colors "pop" more, and using DSR on it looks much better than using DSR on a 1080p screen; 1440p with 4k DSR active actually REALLY looks like a 4k screen (and i've seen 4k so i'd know). And pairing it with high refresh rates and response times, especially with G-Sync just makes you wonder how the hell you were satisfied with gaming on anything else. If you're getting three of them then i'd say get something like TCO mentioned, the QNIX ones, since it'd cost a lot of money. But if you could afford it, getting triple 1440p, 120hz+ G-Sync ones like the Swift or the new Acer IPS one will DEFINITELY be worth it. You should also check out the 34" curved ultra-wide 1440p ones since you're replacing triple screen setup. 34" ultra-wide feels almost as big as like a triple 23" setup (obvious it isn't but it does feel that way) it give you that cinematic "surround" experience, and the new Acer XR341CK coming out later this year will be 1440p, 144hz, G-Sync, 34" curved 21:9 ultra-wide, and is hinted to be an AH-VA which is even better than 90% of IPS panels. There's also going to be a non G-Sync option for those on a budget.


Already have an ultrawide above the 3 lol. Gotta stick to 3


----------



## szeged

EK needs to start making monitors.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> EK needs to start making monitors.


And quickdisconnect fittings


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> And quickdisconnect fittings


i bet ek would make monitors before QDCs.


----------



## lever2stacks

My build so far





L


----------



## guitarhero23

I like it. I wish you coukd do something about that red on the mobo.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> EK needs to start making monitors.


EK needs to make water cooling only motherboards.


----------



## lever2stacks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I like it. I wish you coukd do something about that red on the mobo.


Yup I agree by the time the 980's go in and the back plates are on both of them I doubt you will barely see any red. Whatever can be seen I will cover it with vinyl or something.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> Yup I agree by the time the 980's go in and the back plates are on both of them I doubt you will barely see any red. Whatever can be seen I will cover it with vinyl or something.


Good news! Hopefully that's the case and then you don't even have to worry.


----------



## krel

I would definitely buy EK QD's. Effing Koolance.


----------



## Kimir

I'd buy that too (QDs).
Monitor, I'm not sure, not a fan of csq and imagine the back of a monitor full of circles.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I'd buy that too (QDs).
> Monitor, I'm not sure, not a fan of csq and imagine the back of a monitor full of circles.


Because when you play you look at the back of your monitor ?


----------



## snef




----------



## B NEGATIVE

EK need a bigger range of rads and also need to work the fittings range like Bitspower,other than that,they pretty much have it all.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> EK need a bigger range of rads and also need to work the fittings range like Bitspower,other than that,they pretty much have it all.


I kind of agree on the rad part, with EK having as much experience as they do with cooling and blocks you would think their rads would be at the top of the charts compared to some other brands (sometimes)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> EK need a bigger range of rads and also need to work the fittings range like Bitspower,other than that,they pretty much have it all.
> 
> 
> 
> I kind of agree on the rad part, with EK having as much experience as they do with cooling and blocks you would think their rads would be at the top of the charts compared to some other brands (sometimes)
Click to expand...

EK are looking for in-house rad construction soon,expect many changes then I should imagine.


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I kind of agree on the rad part, with EK having as much experience as they do with cooling and blocks you would think their rads would be at the top of the charts compared to some other brands (sometimes)


Just ordered two EK-CoolStream PE 240 so I hope those are good enough lol. But I went with Bitspower for the fittings and rigid tubing.

I'm not a fan of gold but that is beautiful work there Snef! Kinda wish the SATA and memory sockets were black. The reason why I went with the played-out black/red themse


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*
> 
> Just ordered two *EK-CoolStream PE 240* so I hope those are good enough lol. But I went with Bitspower for the fittings and rigid tubing.
> 
> I'm not a fan of gold but that is beautiful work there Snef! Kinda wish the SATA and memory sockets were black. The reason why I went with the played-out black/red themse


Used those in the Parvum I built. Great Rads.









TCO


----------



## Wirerat

I have a 360mm PE in the top of my R5. Too bad there was not a 140mm PE rad. I went with an XTC instead. I like the boxed in look of the PE much better.


----------



## VSG

Not yet, anyway. I think they are going to be released this summer.


----------



## szeged

ek needs a 60ish MM thick rad in the PE style, id buy those so fast.

also


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ek needs a 60ish MM thick rad in the PE style, id buy those so fast.
> 
> also


Nice order!!! Why only 3 blocks? I thought you were going 4-way?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Nice order!!! Why only 3 blocks? I thought you were going 4-way?


It was a typo on my end, meant to grab 4 but hit 3 and didn't notice. I'll just grab the last block and backplate from ppcs next week.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> It was a typo on my end, meant to grab 4 but hit 3 and didn't notice. I'll just grab the last block and backplate from ppcs next week.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Your limited opinion??? Much rather have the qnix than the asus myself!! Why only a 4820????


My perfectly fine opinion thank you very much! Kinda rude tbh...

And G-Sync, 144hz, 1ms response, ULMB etc.. is by far worth it over a QNIX. Plus the PG monitors have a ZERO dead pixel policy so you're guaranteed an A+ panel essentially without having to pay extra for it.

Now the Qnix is honeslty not something i'd get, but i'm still kind of torn on not getting the Overlord X270OC for $450, it's guaranteed to OC to 96hz, and can get up to 120, 1440p, has an IPS screen (although the 8 bit color on the rog swift more than makes up for it's TN panel, it's definitely BY FAR the best TN screen i've ever seen) so the overlord is a great deal. And they're also talking about allowing a G-Sync upgrade option in the future, if they had that option now i would DEFINITELY have gotten that instead. 96hz guaranteed with g-sync, 1440p, ips, and decent 5ms response for $450 is worth it; but something like the qnix which has no g-sync and no option to ever have it, no guarantee that it will even reach 61hz stable, and no pixel guarantee typically (the overlord checks their screens first, and have iirc, a 3 pixel policy rather than like 5-6 on qnix/crossover etc..) and doesn't have the very cool looking branding that Overlord does, so i'd prefer either the perfection of an ROG swift or the overlord.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Already have an ultrawide above the 3 lol. Gotta stick to 3


THAT....is one nice setup my friend....kudos to you. I never thought of sticking an ultra-wide above a triple surround 16:9 setup. I wonder what that'd look like if you put the 16:9 screens in portrait (i'm a portrait surround freak personally, i even tried setting up my 23.5" ASUS VG23AH with the new 27" ROG swift in portrait surround haha)


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Oh my bad thought you were saying sell the kingpins to get a single titan x. Sli titans would be killer but again they aren't made for gaming so I'd stick with the 980s esspecially since you said you'll only be running 1440p. If there's one thing I've learned in the past is if something works well why change it. Just stick with the 980 kingpins they are great cards. If down the road you don't like them then hey sell them and buy some used titan X's but it's never the best idea to buy a card right when it comes out anyway. Esspecially at the price they go for. I'm assuming you paid a pretty penny for the kingpins already?


Hmm, well the titan x's actually "do" seem to be gaming cards this time around. Unlike the original titan they don't have that fp64 double precision rendering type stuff on them, it's just full out maxwell gaming card with insane vram capacity essentially.

But yeah i do agree that i might be fine with the 980 kingpins, and i'm actually thinking of spending the $400 i would've put towards the titan x's after selling the kingpins to getting a used ps4 and bloodborne since i'm a dark souls freak, and just use it for a few months till i'm burned out then sell the ps4/game once the 980 kingpin blocks come out so i can afford those.

And yeah i did, cost me $800 for each kingpin card, although i did get a $25 newegg gift card for them not processing my order and giving the last one in stock to someone who ordered 3 hours after i did for some reason. But i just love the look of the kingpin cards, so just on vanity alone i might keep them haha.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> THAT....is one nice setup my friend....kudos to you. I never thought of sticking an ultra-wide above a triple surround 16:9 setup. I wonder what that'd look like if you put the 16:9 screens in portrait (i'm a portrait surround freak personally, i even tried setting up my 23.5" ASUS VG23AH with the new 27" ROG swift in portrait surround haha)


Thanks,

It would look something like this


From some guy on Reddit.


----------



## Ceadderman

I wanna see EK make GPU full card heatsinks. They get time with them prior to launch anyway. I am getting a pair of them with my Thermospheres so I will post pics when I pre-fit everything.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarkIdeals

Did you ever find the pics of your supremacy vga uni blocks on the kingpins you were gonna post szeged?

I'm actually thinking of just getting those anyway instead of full cover for now, since i got sucked into the hype of bloodborne and ordered a used ps4; which i plan to sell later on once the full cover blocks are out. So i'm leaning more towards uni blocks now than ever.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Did you ever find the pics of your supremacy vga uni blocks on the kingpins you were gonna post szeged?
> 
> I'm actually thinking of just getting those anyway instead of full cover for now, since i got sucked into the hype of bloodborne and ordered a used ps4; which i plan to sell later on once the full cover blocks are out. So i'm leaning more towards uni blocks now than ever.


forgot to take the pics and now i tore down the rig, my rig looks like this atm while i await the S8 i ordered



i dont think itll look bad if you take your time and do it right with uni blocks.


----------



## DarkIdeals

double post...sorry.


----------



## DarkIdeals

well, nvm anyway. ppcs sold out of them the second i figured oh what the hell i'll get some uniblocks. and no eta on re-stock...

anyone have a list of shops that sell ek products that would have ek vga supremacy plexi blocks?

or anyone have any they're selling? I'd pay fair price for them (copper or nickel, prefer plexi)


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> well, nvm anyway. ppcs sold out of them the second i figured oh what the hell i'll get some uniblocks. and no eta on re-stock...
> 
> anyone have a list of shops that sell ek products that would have ek vga supremacy plexi blocks?
> 
> or anyone have any they're selling? I'd pay fair price for them (copper or nickel, prefer plexi)


Order them straight from EK, the shipping is fast world wide and very reasonable. 2 water blocks to here in the U.S. is like 30 USD and 3 day shipping.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Order them straight from EK, the shipping is fast world wide and very reasonable. 2 water blocks to here in the U.S. is like 30 USD and 3 day shipping.


I can't afford that, i still have to buy fittings and tubing and the two waterblocks and i've already spent over $4,000 on the system so far. I'm at the end of my budget, so that $30 shipping pushes me over the limit honestly. If i did that i'd end up short on fittings and stuff. It's surprising that so little pushes my budget over the limit, but once you've spent that much you just don't have a lot left. And EK is out of the copper ones, so they only have nickel which is $6-7 more per block so that adds up too.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanWoodsPcMods*
> 
> Hey guys do these fit the maximus VII gene aswell
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/chipset-blocks/intel-z87-series/ek-sb-asus-m6g-nickel.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanWoodsPcMods*
> 
> awesome thanks, any ETA on when they will be back in stock.


There is one unopened in the classifieds for sale: http://www.overclock.net/t/1538308/ek-asus-mosfet-m6g-waterblock-nickel-plexi-asus-maximus-vi-gene-hero


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> I can't afford that, i still have to buy fittings and tubing and the two waterblocks and i've already spent over $4,000 on the system so far. I'm at the end of my budget, so that $30 shipping pushes me over the limit honestly. If i did that i'd end up short on fittings and stuff.


I'm sorry, but when you have $4000 to spend on two 980 kingpins (and are thinking about getting the Titans... I think that's what you said) and all other hardware, and don't have ~$30 to spend on shipping, something seems off to me.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I'm sorry, but when you have $4000 to spend on two 980 kingpins (and are thinking about getting the Titans... I think that's what you said) and all other hardware, and don't have ~$30 to spend on shipping, something seems off to me.


Seriously? you never had a budget before?

That means that i had a SET amount of money, and can't go over it. I spent almost all i have, and i'll still need to spend $200 on tubing and fittings as well as a few more fans ($50-75ish), and the water blocks (~$120) and spending money on extravogant shipping will cause me to not be able to afford those necessary items. I've already spent the $4,000, that means that i don't have money growing off trees anymore, i'm fresh out. I only have $175 on me now, so i'll have to save up more this coming few weeks to even get the fittings and fans

And i said a couple days ago i wasn't getting the titans, i bought other parts instead. Hell i don't even have an ssd yet, still using a couple 500gb hard drives for now


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Seriously? you never had a budget before?
> 
> That means that i had a SET amount of money, and can't go over it. I spent almost all i have, and i'll still need to spend $200 on tubing and fittings as well as a few more fans ($50-75ish), and the water blocks (~$120) and spending money on extravogant shipping will cause me to not be able to afford those necessary items. I've already spent the $4,000, that means that i don't have money growing off trees anymore, i'm fresh out. I only have $175 on me now, so i'll have to save up more this coming few weeks to even get the fittings and fans
> 
> And i said a couple days ago i wasn't getting the titans, i bought other parts instead. Hell i don't even have an ssd yet, still using a couple 500gb hard drives for now


That's undertandable, but with a budget that high, $30 is nothing. I had a budget for mine, which was $2000 including monitor. Then I ended up adding a second 6GB 780, and $800 in Watercooling parts.

When it comes to building PC's with high end components, you need to know exactly what you want. When you start changing ideas, such as spending $400 more for Titans (not including the loss of the kingpins), you will go over.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That's undertandable, but with a budget that high, $30 is nothing. I had a budget for mine, which was $2000 including monitor. Then I ended up adding a second 6GB 780, and $800 in Watercooling parts.
> 
> When it comes to building PC's with high end components, you need to know exactly what you want. When you start changing ideas, such as spending $400 more for Titans (not including the loss of the kingpins), you will go over.


I know, which is why i didn't switch to the titans. And my plan was to include the full cover blocks but they are delayed quite a bit apparently so i used some of the money to get other things and figured i'd settle for universal blocks. Then once the full covers come out i'd sell the other stuff i bought to pay for those (or just use money i saved up in the next couple months), but as you said i figured out EXACTLY how much it would cost, and those figures were based on the performance-pcs price and much cheaper combined shipping for the whole order which would be less since i'd be including the fans, fittings, tubing etc.. into it all. Thus the $30 shipping + the shipping on the fans and fittings and tubing would put me a bit over. Which is why i'm looking for a place in the US if possible, and if not buy a used one from someone. Which makes sense, because i'm only using them temporarily anyway. i found someone selling the acetal versions for a good price, but i'd still prefer the plexi ones quite a bit more so that's why i'm asking if anyone is planning on selling any of the plexi universal ones.

You have to understand that once the money dries up, $30 ISN'T nothing, at this point i only have just under $200 or so, so $30 could make or break the entire plan.


----------



## LandonAaron

When you buy a bridge does it come with new o rings? Trying to add second FC R9 290 block to my system and can't stop two leaks out the bottom ports of the second card. Super annoying. I think the ports are striped on fc terminal block thing. Was going to hook it up with tubing but now I just want to buy a bridge as feel that will be easier, but I somehow managed to lose an O ring in the whole process. So pissed right now, these terminals are so soft, every time I skew in a fitting it shreds the port.

Really I still want to use tubing as I like the look better and already dropped the cash on all these compression fittings. If I buy a new FC terminal two port thing, assuming they are sold, will it come with new o rings?


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> When you buy a bridge does it come with new o rings? Trying to add second FC R9 290 block to my system and can't stop two leaks out the bottom ports of the second card. Super annoying. I think the ports are striped on fc terminal block thing. Was going to hook it up with tubing but now I just want to buy a bridge as feel that will be easier, but I somehow managed to lose an O ring in the whole process. So pissed right now, these terminals are so soft, every time I skew in a fitting it shreds the port.
> 
> Really I still want to use tubing as I like the look better and already dropped the cash on all these compression fittings. If I buy a new FC terminal two port thing, assuming they are sold, will it come with new o rings?


When you say bridge what exactly are you meaning? Another terminal for connecting 2/3/4 cards in sli? or a single one like the black ones that come with all EK blocks?

The regular terminals i can definitely say don't come with o-rings as far as i know, although i think i remember the one i bought having ONE o-ring with it as a spare, but it expected you to use the o-rings from your waterblocks to put on the terminal since you'd be replacing the single terminals with the dual/triple/quad one.


----------



## LandonAaron

I thought that was the case which is dumb. Where can you buy the o rings? I am looking to buy the black piece that has the two ports on the side of it that are oblong shaped and then 4 standard g 1/4 ports, 2 on top and bottom that comes standard with the fc terminal type blocks. Also want atriple slot dual parallel bridge as well in case I run into problems again.

But none of that will do me good without the 25 cent O ring. So rediculous those aren't included.


----------



## LandonAaron

Well looks like pp sells a clear acrylic fc terminal which wouldn't match at all but does come with o rings. So I guess that is my only option for the o rings and no chance of getting a black replacement terminal through pp or ek shop though.

If anyone has the black replacement terminal with orings I can buy or trade a clear acrylic EK Supremacy universal VGA water block for it...

So either someone comes to my rescue or I buy the plexiglass terminal plus bridge, just too use a bridge I don't even want to use, lol. Ugh.


----------



## Jakusonfire

If you contact EK support they will sell you a new terminal or o-rings or both.

FrozenCPU used to be the best place to get EK spares but they are still down I think.
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c585/s1880/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Replacement_Parts-EK_Replacement_O-Rings-Page1.html

You could also check hobby stores near you because they often carry o-rings of that size for model cars etc.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> When you buy a bridge does it come with new o rings? Trying to add second FC R9 290 block to my system and can't stop two leaks out the bottom ports of the second card. Super annoying. I think the ports are striped on fc terminal block thing. Was going to hook it up with tubing but now I just want to buy a bridge as feel that will be easier, but I somehow managed to lose an O ring in the whole process. So pissed right now, these terminals are so soft, every time I skew in a fitting it shreds the port.
> 
> Really I still want to use tubing as I like the look better and already dropped the cash on all these compression fittings. If I buy a new FC terminal two port thing, assuming they are sold, will it come with new o rings?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If you contact EK support they will sell you a new terminal or o-rings or both.
> 
> FrozenCPU used to be the best place to get EK spares but they are still down I think.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c585/s1880/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Replacement_Parts-EK_Replacement_O-Rings-Page1.html
> 
> You could also check hobby stores near you because they often carry o-rings of that size for model cars etc.


Like @Jakusonfire said, you should open a ticket in the EK Support section (http://www.ekwb.com/support/) and they will get you a replacement Acetal terminal. Just don't forget to mention that you need new o-rings too.

All the bridge only comes with 1 spare o-ring and screw in case of trouble. The customer has re-use the hardware (o-rings and screws) that he originally had. So this option won't help.

Also, since you say that the fitting is destroying the port threading, just check if your fitting fits correctly somewhere else like on a radiator or on a cpu block. If it doesn't fit then there might be a problem on the fitting itself. If it fits then it would mean that the threading on your EK-FC Terminal was wrongfully done and we will replace it.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Like @Jakusonfire said, you should open a ticket in the EK Support section (http://www.ekwb.com/support/) and they will get you a replacement Acetal terminal. Just don't forget to mention that you need new o-rings too.
> 
> All the bridge only comes with 1 spare o-ring and screw in case of trouble. The customer has re-use the hardware (o-rings and screws) that he originally had. So this option won't help.
> 
> Also, since you say that the fitting is destroying the port threading, just check if your fitting fits correctly somewhere else like on a radiator or on a cpu block. If it doesn't fit then there might be a problem on the fitting itself. If it fits then it would mean that the threading on your EK-FC Terminal was wrongfully done and we will replace it.


Sorry was cranky working on this late last night. I just need one o-ring so I will just order the bridge for now until I can get the terminal replaced through EK. It was a used clock so no telling if it was sold to me defective, though I like to think people aren't so low they would sell you something they know is broke. I known the fitting is fine as I had it connected to the top card before adding this one without issue. I probably just over tightened. Just made the switch to compression fittings for first time and they are a real pain trying to tighten the compression ring. Once the ring was fully tightened it may the fitting may have started to turn too tearing up the port. Though I don't know what could have happened on the port where I am just using a plug.

Would loctite or some other epoxy work to repair the port until I can get it replaced?


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Well looks like pp sells a clear acrylic fc terminal which wouldn't match at all but does come with o rings. So I guess that is my only option for the o rings and no chance of getting a black replacement terminal through pp or ek shop though.
> 
> If anyone has the black replacement terminal with orings I can buy or trade a clear acrylic EK Supremacy universal VGA water block for it...
> 
> So either someone comes to my rescue or I buy the plexiglass terminal plus bridge, just too use a bridge I don't even want to use, lol. Ugh.


That's exactly what i've been looking for, the clear acrylic universal block. i could trade you if you like. I have money and one or two o-rings iirc, and i think i have a black terminal somewhere around here. Yours is regular or csq with the circles?

And how many o-rings do you need?


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> That's exactly what i've been looking for, the clear acrylic universal block. i could trade you if you like. I have money and one or two o-rings iirc, and i think i have a black terminal somewhere around here. Yours is regular or csq with the circles?
> 
> And how many o-rings do you need?


I need two o rings one is missing and the other just doesn't look good. I need the black terminal, non csq style without circles. The universal GPU block I have is clear acrylic with copper base, and I have all the mounting hardware for it. I need the terminal more than cash.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Couldn't find the terminal i had so far, but i found the extra o-rings, i have five of them that fit the terminals but they're custom orange color to match the build i was doing, that's easy to fix with some spray paint though and you don't see them once they're in the block. You're missing just the rings right? you still have the terminal?


----------



## DarkIdeals

I could give you the o-rings + a fair amount of money to order a terminal from ek

traded for the universal block i mean.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I will Link what I purchased Sir.
> 
> Amazon Qnix Pixel Perfect (Linked From my Purchased Page)
> 
> I've had zero problems with it (Possible to keep overclocking If I needed to, I only have a single 780 EVGA FTW so 100hz was plenty enough) and did not want to jump on the bandwagon of an 800+ Rog Swift monitor.
> 
> I recieved the monitor in about 4 days after I pressed buy.
> 
> The Cautious One


Wow thanks for the info. Now my options are between this and the LG ultrawide. Is there any reason I'd want to pick this over the ultrawide?


----------



## jcde7ago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ek needs a 60ish MM thick rad in the PE style, id buy those so fast.
> 
> also


You're going to love the Monarch RAM blocks/modules...they are soooooo clean.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcde7ago*
> 
> You're going to love the Monarch RAM blocks/modules...they are so clean.


I second that I love my monarch ram waterblocks. They make them in clean plexi also so if you don't like the circles. Personally I like the circles and the clean plexi so I polished my frosted csq block to get the look I wanted.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> That's exactly what i've been looking for, the clear acrylic universal block. i could trade you if you like. I have money and one or two o-rings iirc, and i think i have a black terminal somewhere around here. Yours is regular or csq with the circles?
> 
> And how many o-rings do you need?


What are you looking for? I've got an extra ek triple serial bridge, the sli connector block for if your only using 2 cards double spaced and a bunch of extra o rings and fc links.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> What are you looking for? I've got an extra ek triple serial bridge, the sli connector block for if your only using 2 cards double spaced and a bunch of extra o rings and fc links.


I just need the fc link, that comes standard on every full cover block. Non csq style. Sorry it's hard describing precisely.I sold the VGA block to dark ideals already though so I don't have that to trade any longer but I would pay the going rate. Also I wanted the parallel bridge for two card sli, double spaced, think they call it triple slot. Just as an option in case I can't get the tubing to work again.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> What are you looking for? I've got an extra ek triple serial bridge, the sli connector block for if your only using 2 cards double spaced and a bunch of extra o rings and fc links.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I just need the fc link, that comes standard on every full cover block. Non csq style. Sorry it's hard describing precisely.I sold the VGA block to dark ideals already though so I don't have that to trade any longer but I would pay the going rate. Also I wanted the parallel bridge for two card sli, double spaced, think they call it triple slot. Just as an option in case I can't get the tubing to work again.


The important thing here is "Non CSQ style". LandonAaron needs the EK-FC Terminal style.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> I could give you the o-rings + a fair amount of money to order a terminal from ek
> 
> traded for the universal block i mean.


Did you see Bitspower is coming/came out with a 980 EVGA Kingpin Full cover block?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Did you see *Bitspower* is coming/came out with a 980 EVGA Kingpin Full cover block?


not a fan of bitspower blocks

expensive and (imo) ugly. I dont like huge branding over the entire block, while im sure they perform well, thats a deal breaker for me. I do know that is the style a lot of people go for over in that part of asia.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Did you see *Bitspower* is coming/came out with a 980 EVGA Kingpin Full cover block?
> 
> 
> 
> not a fan of bitspower blocks
> 
> expensive and (imo) ugly. I dont like huge branding over the entire block, while im sure they perform well, thats a deal breaker for me. I do know that is the style a lot of people go for over in that part of asia.
Click to expand...

Thats changed now.



Although the massive serial numbers need to go.....


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats changed now.
> 
> 
> 
> Although the massive serial numbers need to go.....


ah yeah, those do look nicer now, i dont usually keep up with the bitspower blocks so i guess im behind lol.


----------



## VSG

Or is it?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







This is the render for the 980 KPE, and the 980 Classified block looks similar.


----------



## MrGrievous

So I recently bought a gtx 980 Strix gpu and bought a water block to go with it but bought the the plexi/nickle one and want to put the ek back plate on it. Did I buy the wrong block?. The reason I ask is because my block does not cover the entire length of the pcb


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> So I recently bought a gtx 980 Strix gpu and bought a water block to go with it but bought the the plexi/nickle one and want to put the ek back plate on it. Did I buy the wrong block?. The reason I ask is because my block does not cover the entire length of the pcb


Not all blocks are "full cover blocks". Itll function fine


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Not all blocks are "full cover blocks". Itll function fine


I always thought full cover refers to the components that need to be actively cooled such as VRM, Vram and the gpu core. Not the Pcb.


----------



## LandonAaron

Well I was able to stop my leaks with a combination of thread locker and liquid black rubber sealant. And found my missing o ring under my PSU. So today's a much better day than yesterday. Only running with X20 pump right now, scared of turning on the mcp50x. Not sure the sealant will hold under the higher preessure. Unfortunately I managed to skew something else up though. I cracked my block over tightening the middle fc terminal bolt. Very small hairline crack that doesn't look to connect to the water channels thhough. So I will just have to keep an eye on it. I want to patch it with an epoxy or something to keep it from growing. I just put threadlocker in the bolt hole for now.

Oh the joys of watercooling. Not sure if I am just having bad luck, or If I am just terribe at this. Either way, I'm not going to let it stop me. I need to put that tax return to use after all.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I always thought full cover refers to the components that need to be actively cooled such as VRM, Vram and the gpu core. Not the Pcb.


Oh well...now im confused lol


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Oh well...now im confused lol


Guess the full length pcb goes by 'extended' full length or something


----------



## Ceadderman

Full cover blocks only cool the parts that need to be actively cooled. But some blocks cover to the edges of the pcb And some don't. Probably due to how the GPU is laid out. Full cover blocks for my GPU don't cover the entire pcb. No matter who manufactured the block. While some do for aesthetic purposes.

Backplates will cover the entire pcb. Regardless of the block you're using.









~Ceadder


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats changed now.
> 
> 
> 
> Although the massive serial numbers need to go.....


If that's not the most blatant copy of an EK block then I don't know anymore. The lines, the angles, the extra chambers on the inlets, everything... You could put EK badge on this block and sell it under our name FFS.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> If that's not the most blatant copy of an EK block then I don't know anymore. The lines, the angles, the extra chambers on the inlets, everything... You could put EK badge on this block and sell it under our name FFS.


haha, Lawsuit









its hard to top EK blocks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> So I recently bought a gtx 980 Strix gpu and bought a water block to go with it but bought the the plexi/nickle one and want to put the ek back plate on it. Did I buy the wrong block?. The reason I ask is because my block does not cover the entire length of the pcb


Like a few people in previous posts told you, you will be fine. Even if your block doesn't cover the whole real estate of the pcb, the hardware provided with the backplate will secure it correctly even where there's no more waterblock to screw in.

Have a look at the backplate instructions to see what I mean. Take a look at step 4 and you will see that this step has 2 way to be achieve depending on the length of the block you have









http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109830345.pdf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> If that's not the most blatant copy of an EK block then I don't know anymore. The lines, the angles, the extra chambers on the inlets, everything... You could put EK badge on this block and sell it under our name FFS.


True! Like a very big amount of recent BP products


----------



## snef

teaser of the EK-Vulture in white


----------



## guitarhero23

yesssssssssssssssss


----------



## Ceadderman

Snowflake!









~Ceadder


----------



## ALT F4

Looks great


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats changed now.
> 
> 
> 
> Although the massive serial numbers need to go.....
> 
> 
> 
> If that's not the most blatant copy of an EK block then I don't know anymore. The lines, the angles, the extra chambers on the inlets, everything... You could put EK badge on this block and sell it under our name FFS.
Click to expand...

There is a definite likeness there Niko.....

However,the typical EK block is slimmer by some margin and has a much more desirable angular quality.

The sincerest form of flattery is........

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> True! Like a very big amount of recent BP products


Not so true tho......

Bitspower have always had a full sized cover plate on their GPU blocks,unlike EK.

The only thing that springs to mind are the DDC heatsinks,I cant remember who was first ......the enclosed D5 was a Bitspower thing before EK.....

The ARES Block cheekiness was not on tho.....and EK have every right to be pissed about that.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is a definite likeness there Niko.....
> 
> However,the typical EK block is slimmer by some margin and has a much more desirable angular quality.
> 
> The sincerest form of flattery is........


Yes, very much so.

Also this is sort of what is likely to happen when you move to plain featureless squares for blocks as many people seem to have demanded since CSQ debuted. How do you tell one featureless square from another.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is a definite likeness there Niko.....
> 
> However,the typical EK block is slimmer by some margin and has a much more desirable angular quality.
> 
> The sincerest form of flattery is........
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, very much so.
> 
> Also this is sort of what is likely to happen when you move to plain featureless squares for blocks as many people seem to have demanded since CSQ debuted. *How do you tell one featureless square from another.*
Click to expand...

Make it entirely from copper!

Watercool or EK need to make full copper everything again......


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Make it entirely from copper!
> 
> Watercool or EK need to make full copper everything again......


But people want to be able to see inside. So they can point to it and say "see there really is water in there" to their breathless in wonderment friends, I guess.
Or so they can watch in real time as it gets dirty maybe?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Wow thanks for the info. Now my options are between this and the LG ultrawide. Is there any reason I'd want to pick this over the ultrawide?


Why Don't you ask around In the Thread I personally don't want a monitor that wide.

The Cautious ONe


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> If that's not the most blatant copy of an EK block then I don't know anymore. The lines, the angles, the extra chambers on the inlets, everything... You could put EK badge on this block and sell it under our name FFS.


I won't lie, it's funny hearing this from an EK employee(?) lol


----------



## princedanly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> I would definitely buy EK QD's. Effing Koolance.


im using koolance qd3 fs10x16 and qd3 msg4 i choose this because it is short.


size compared to ek psc angled adapters.


----------



## guitarhero23

Gotta make an aestetic decision here.

I am going to be building a white+blue caselabs build and this decision lies in my blocks.

Right now I have:

CPU: Frosted plexi
RAM: Clean plexi
GPU: Clean plexi
Pump Top: Frosted plexi.

I gotta decide to go all clear or all frosted.

Coolant is Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry (slightly darker shade). Would like 2-3 opinions.


----------



## Laine

I knew there was a reason for keeping the old EK-NB 780i around for so long, haha.


----------



## krel

Any reason to not remove the PCI-e slot locks on my motherboard? Thinking about trying to remove three cards connected by a bridge from the motherboard, seems like removing those locks would make things a lot easier.


----------



## DanWoodsPcMods

Some photos I took today of my new EK EVO gold CPU block.

Also quick question, can I change the therminal block on the Ares III to a plexi one.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanWoodsPcMods*
> 
> Also quick question, can I change the therminal block on the Ares III to a plexi one.]


Yes, you can.


----------



## marshymellows

I just posted this on the OWC and asked for some help. I would like if someone from ek could help me out here.
I was told to clean it and put some silicone lube to seal around the "fins". But what I want to know is, is this supposed to be able to happen?(stagnant water sipping trough the fins and moving on the block)

Any clarification is appreciated









Marshy


----------



## tiborrr12

Yes, that's normal, don't use any sealant please. The dotted stuff you see if dirt deposits, either flux from the radiator or leeched plasticizer from the tubing or combination of both.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Yes, that's normal, don't use any sealant please. The dotted stuff you see if dirt deposits, either flux from the radiator or leeched plasticizer from the tubing or combination of both.


just to make sure, you are talking about that brownish stuff above the "fins"? If so should I leave it or should I take the block apart and clean it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Yes, that's normal, don't use any sealant please. The dotted stuff you see if dirt deposits, either flux from the radiator or leeched plasticizer from the tubing or combination of both.


I advised him to smear silicone lube,not sealant,a light smear on the mating faces will keep it coolant free.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I advised him to smear silicone lube,not sealant,a light smear on the mating faces will keep it coolant free.


I have two questions about the lube thing.

1. im from sweden and when i search for silicone lube i get results from... adult sites hehe. is that kind of lube i should buy or is it something completly different?

2. after smearing the lube will i be able to see it through the block?

Thanks for helping me out.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I advised him to smear silicone lube,not sealant,a light smear on the mating faces will keep it coolant free.
> 
> 
> 
> I have two questions about the lube thing.
> 
> 1. im from sweden and when i search for silicone lube i get results from... adult sites hehe. is that kind of lube i should buy or is it something completly different?
> 
> 2. after smearing the lube will i be able to see it through the block?
> 
> Thanks for helping me out.
Click to expand...

The lube can be clear or white.it wont matter tho as you are using a tiny amount that wont colour anything,you can also use it on o-rings to maintain quality and less deformation when tighening.



I rub some in to a rag then wipe the mating surfaces on the block only,NOT THE WATERCHANNEL. I use it for hard tubing too,all rubber seals get a wipe over before use. If you ever take your block apart then you can wipe the o-rings and they 'stick' in place making assembly much easier.

Useful stuff,you should get some.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The lube can be clear or white.it wont matter tho as you are using a tiny amount that wont colour anything,you can also use it on o-rings to maintain quality and less deformation when tighening.
> 
> 
> 
> I rub some in to a rag then wipe the mating surfaces on the block only,NOT THE WATERCHANNEL. I use it for hard tubing too,all rubber seals get a wipe over before use. If you ever take your block apart then you can wipe the o-rings and they 'stick' in place making assembly much easier.
> 
> Useful stuff,you should get some.


Allright, i'll make sure to get some this week and try to find time to drain my loop on the weekend. thanks alot for the help, ill make sure to pm you if i have more questions.


----------



## LandonAaron

Is there a way to buy shorter standoffs for a full cover block. I purchased an fc-r9 290x block off Ebay and the standoffs are too tall. The GPU die can't make contact with the waterbllock. The standoffs are screwed in as tightly as they will go. I am
using a sapphire r9 290x reference card.

Oh happy happy joy joy. I was all set to try and return this block and took one more look at my card and noticed these black spacer thing on the four holes around the die. I grabbed a pick out of my tool box had them off in a minute and what do you know, the card is now properly sitting on the block. Awesomeness.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Is there a way to buy shorter standoffs for a full cover block. I purchased an fc-r9 290x block off Ebay and the standoffs are too tall. The GPU die can't make contact with the waterbllock. The standoffs are screwed in as tightly as they will go. I am
> using a sapphire r9 290x reference card.
> 
> Oh happy happy joy joy. I was all set to try and return this block and took one more look at my card and noticed these black spacer thing on the four holes around the die. I grabbed a pick out of my tool box had them off in a minute and what do you know, the card is now properly sitting on the block. Awesomeness.


----------



## Nichismo

gosh its been a while since ive posted anything so I just thought id go around and share the latest pics of my rig, ive actually finished both loops at this point, although when I took these pictures I still hadnt connected that last run down in the corner from the chassis divider to AX rad. Im going to finish filling them with DIW tonight and connect all my cables, and then if I want to make any changes to the loops i will. If not, ill fill in the mayhems dye a in a week or two.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> gosh its been a while since ive posted anything so I just thought id go around and share the latest pics of my rig, ive actually finished both loops at this point, although when I took these pictures I still hadnt connected that last run down in the corner from the chassis divider to AX rad. Im going to finish filling them with DIW tonight and connect all my cables, and then if I want to make any changes to the loops i will. If not, ill fill in the mayhems dye a in a week or two.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Been a very long time since I have posted as well.. Been way too busy IRL in the past few years.

Looks really nice.









lol it's been so long I don't know about anything made after 2011-12


----------



## LandonAaron

At long last victory is mine. Ran into alot of difficulties getting these blocks installed, two leaky ports on one FC Terminal, two cracked bolt holes in the plexi block, a leaky 90 degree snake fitting, and an overheating card from lack of GPU die contact on the top card. But with some trial and error, thread locker, epoxy, and help from the good folks here at OCN victory is finally mine. First time rocking a multi-GPU setup since my pair of GTX 260's back in the day.

I also delidded my processor at the same time I was installing these cards and blocks. The delid resulted in a small crack in the chips PCB, so I initially mis-diagnosed the overheating problem as a damaged CPU, and ran out purchased two more chips, only to find out that the issue was actually with the video card not the CPU. I think I really need to learn how to slow down and be more careful









Anyway, pictured below is a Saphire R9 290x with an EK Full Cover Nickel and Acrylic Block, and a VisionTek CryoVenom R9 290 with an EK Plexi and Nickel Block. And with this I would like to officially join the club.


----------



## krel

So if I'm going to replace the black QD3s in my loop which are the source of the residue, is there anything better than the nickel plated QD3s?

Anything I could do to just clean/strip the black ones?


----------



## Wirerat

Im looking for more of the ek zmt matte black tubing. The type that comes in the "L" kits. I cannot find anywhere in the us that has it.


----------



## tiborrr12

Performance PCs should have it. If they don't, demand it!


----------



## Rainmaker91

I know it's been talked about quite a bit, but has the 140mm Vardar been confirmed or is it just speculation? Just doing some writing, so it would be great to have my facts straight.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I know it's been talked about quite a bit, but has the 140mm Vardar been confirmed or is it just speculation? Just doing some writing, so it would be great to have my facts straight.


Confirmed IIRC?

It'll be interesting as one of the few good 140mm fans IMO.

Too bad I'm stuck with crap fans here locally, if only EK would come to South Africa


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Confirmed IIRC?
> 
> It'll be interesting as one of the few good 140mm fans IMO.
> 
> Too bad I'm stuck with crap fans here locally, if only EK would come to South Africa


Well that sounds great then. It's hard to say, you can look at for example Corsair's SP140, they look more like their AF140 fans than SP120 fans. So it is har do say if the same design can be used on bigger fan blades with the same effect.


----------



## krel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> So if I'm going to replace the black QD3s in my loop which are the source of the residue, is there anything better than the nickel plated QD3s?
> 
> Anything I could do to just clean/strip the black ones?


I went ahead and ordered the chrome QD3s to replace my black ones. Irritating, but what can you do. I also ordered a couple bottles of the Mayhems X1 concentrate. Should I leave the silver coil I already have in the loop with the X1, or should I only use the X1?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Well that sounds great then. It's hard to say, you can look at for example Corsair's SP140, they look more like their AF140 fans than SP120 fans. So it is har do say if the same design can be used on bigger fan blades with the same effect.


Yeah the 140mm Vardar fans are coming out in a few weeks time.

Corsair has new SP140s coming based off their new SP140L that was in the new H110i GT AIO. Those should be much better than the existing ones.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> I went ahead and ordered the chrome QD3s to replace my black ones. Irritating, but what can you do. I also ordered a couple bottles of the Mayhems X1 concentrate. Should I leave the silver coil I already have in the loop with the X1, or should I only use the X1?


I haven't seen a definitive answer to that question but when I ran with biocide and silver kill coil in my loop the kill coil turned completely black with a thin layer of silky dust like material on it. I haven't seen the black stuff anywhere else in the loop but I went ahead and removed the kill coil just in case.

I say just use the biocide and drain and refill every couple months. When you drain collect the water in a clean white bowl so you check for debris and coloration.


----------



## krel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I haven't seen a definitive answer to that question but when I ran with biocide and silver kill coil in my loop the kill coil turned completely black with a thin layer of silky dust like material on it. I haven't seen the black stuff anywhere else in the loop but I went ahead and removed the kill coil just in case.
> 
> I say just use the biocide and drain and refill every couple months. When you drain collect the water in a clean white bowl so you check for debris and coloration.


Sounds like a plan. I'm going to be completely disassembling and cleaning everything, probably this weekend. I don't see any crud in my tubing or CPU block, just the white crap on the QDs, so hopefully it should be a pretty straightforward process.


----------



## krel

Pile o' goodies


----------



## holynorth

Having massive issues getting my 980 Strix backplates on. I managed to get the first one after quite some time, but the second one I'm having the same issue of just a few specific screws refusing to go in. Any advice? I've tried everything I can think of.

Edit: I kind of know the issue. If I take off the backplate and start screwing in the six backplate screws, five go in perfectly. One of them doesn't match up to the waterblock standoff and is forced to angle and cannot screw in. Any ideas?


----------



## tiborrr12

Is this a short (plexi) or long acetal top?


----------



## holynorth

It's the long nickel + acetal waterblock with the full black backplate.

Edit: It's almost as if the graphics card and waterblock are just barely off. The waterblock is able to screw in with the short screws (even in the problematic hole) just barely, but the long screw required for the backplate is just too much of an angle to make it. I may try exchanging my graphics card today to see if that's the issue, but I'm not sure if they'll let me at this point.

Second Edit: I managed to fix it finally. I left the waterblock on with all the screws (even the ones you remove for the backplate) on overnight. I think my graphics card was just bent a fraction of a hair, which was enough to prevent all the screws from aligning correctly. The backplate went on without even the slightest struggle this morning.

However, on the P8Z77-M Pro, the top card in SLI touches and just barely presses agianst the metal box for the sound/mic metal box on the IO panel. Will this cause any problems?


----------



## tiborrr12

Glad you've got it sorted out.

Yes, ASUS cards are notoriously warped. It may sound horrible but I usually straighten mine out by applying pressure to the edges while pushing it against my knee. My 780 DCII was especially bad. It was heartbreaking listening to the cracking sounds it made









No, the backplates are anodized and do not conduct electricity (until the plating is scratched off). Also, the housing of the IO panels are grounded. Double safety then!


----------



## krel

question on installing blocks - on the thermal pads on the memory chips, do I use a touch of grease on both sides of the pads, or just on the side against the chips and not on the side against the block?


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> question on installing blocks - on the thermal pads on the memory chips, do I use a touch of grease on both sides of the pads, or just on the side against the chips and not on the side against the block?


I put a tiny drop on the chip then put the pad on it. It's primarily to help them stay in place anyway, so whatever is fine.


----------



## krel

Next question - once I have the blocks on all three cards, I need to connect them together using the terminal/bridge. After they are all together as one unit,what's the best way to move the whole assembly around? I assume it's not okay to pick them all up by the bridge?

Once they're all together I assume that from then on I can treat the whole thing as one unit, install and remove from the motherboard as one assembly, etc. that is, once the bridge is connected to the cards I don't want to be separating them, correct?


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> Next question - once I have the blocks on all three cards, I need to connect them together using the terminal/bridge. After they are all together as one unit,what's the best way to move the whole assembly around? I assume it's not okay to pick them all up by the bridge?
> 
> Once they're all together I assume that from then on I can treat the whole thing as one unit, install and remove from the motherboard as one assembly, etc. that is, once the bridge is connected to the cards I don't want to be separating them, correct?


Do what feels most comfortable for you. Some ideas are laying the bridge down and placing one card to align or placing the cards down and holding the bridge on top to align it.

It is much easier to place the other gpu's when you secure the first one.

I literally held the terminal on one hand with the back of the screw secured by my pointer finger and moved it onto the block on my other hand. Make sure your o-ring's are snug and don't pop out.


----------



## LandonAaron

Seems easier to me to put the cards in the system then just screw on the bridge.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> question on installing blocks - on the thermal pads on the memory chips, do I use a touch of grease on both sides of the pads, or just on the side against the chips and not on the side against the block?


I know your question was on vram but if you put gre as se on the VRM be sure it is non conductive.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Seems easier to me to put the cards in the system then just screw on the bridge.


It can be if he didn't have to remove the cards to verify the installation.
On top of that, in my opinion I don't think it would be easier seeing he has to take the card out, put a block on it, remove the bridge from the block, and then install the terminal.

With 3 titan x coming in at $3000++ and blocks not cheap, I know for sure this guy isn't just going to screw something then double check it.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> question on installing blocks - on the thermal pads on the memory chips, do I use a touch of grease on both sides of the pads, or just on the side against the chips and not on the side against the block?


No need for TIM where there are pads. This is only valid for old and dried out thermal pads. We will remove this for the installation manual because I've seen people emptying a whole tube on eight RAM IC. Subsequently the card was so bowed you would not believe it


----------



## krel

I put together the first of my cards last night, I did use a little bit of the EK TIM that came with the block on each of the ICs before adding the pads. I have about half the tube left after doing the GPU and all of the ICs so I'm not worried about volume. I won't bother on the other two cards. The EK TIM is non-conductive, I assume?

If you're updating the instructions, on the part where it says to remove the 20 screws on the back of the card, you need to add the two screws in the bracket.


----------



## tiborrr12

Yes, EK TIM is electrically non-conductive, do not worry.

Right, we will do so.


----------



## krel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Do what feels most comfortable for you. Some ideas are laying the bridge down and placing one card to align or placing the cards down and holding the bridge on top to align it.
> 
> It is much easier to place the other gpu's when you secure the first one.
> 
> I literally held the terminal on one hand with the back of the screw secured by my pointer finger and moved it onto the block on my other hand. Make sure your o-ring's are snug and don't pop out.


I was actually talking about moving the whole assembly around once the cards and bridge are all connected. Not worried about getting things connected up, I just was wondering about the best way to keep the cards from twisting/etc.

I'm actually thinking about taking a piece of threaded rod that's long enough to go through all three cards and putting it through the middle hole at the back of the cards (other end from the bracket.) That would not only provide rigidity, it would give me a way to lift the whole unit up out of the motherboard fairly easily.


----------



## guitarhero23

Will be going back over the inside again before it goes in the system but this was my first time attempting any polishing,












Video:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Seems easier to me to put the cards in the system then just screw on the bridge.


Until an o-ring harikari's itself between the cards........

Block it all up then drop it in,I remove the bridge when taking the cards out however.

Not that I use bridges anymore,D plugs just own it..


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> I was actually talking about moving the whole assembly around once the cards and bridge are all connected. Not worried about getting things connected up, I just was wondering about the best way to keep the cards from twisting/etc.
> 
> I'm actually thinking about taking a piece of threaded rod that's long enough to go through all three cards and putting it through the middle hole at the back of the cards (other end from the bracket.) That would not only provide rigidity, it would give me a way to lift the whole unit up out of the motherboard fairly easily.


I see, so just removing the three cards and the terminal from the actual motherboard. In that case just hold it upside down or right side up to avoid a chance to fight gravity right?








I am anxious to see your titan x's blocked up







!!


----------



## krel

Yep, just to be able to deal with it as one unit. Fortunately my case is a horizontal design (Mercury S8) which I like a lot, gravity becomes your friend instead of your enemy.







I picked up the rod as well, I think that's going to work great. At a minimum I can put one across the back, I might be able to put one through the bottom hole by the brackets, if that works as well it will make the unit very easy to deal with and pretty well protected.

Two are blocked up now, one to go, but not going to be until later, as I'm actually still working and I need to be able to see what I'm doing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Just got my Thermospheres with dual parallel.









Dual parallel missing the screws.









~Ceadder


----------



## krel

I am planning on testing my system for leaks using an air pump before I fill it with water.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101/

According to the responses in the other thread, it sounds like 10 PSI or so is a good, safe number to test with but I thought it would probably be smart to ask in this thread so I make sure I'm not voiding my warranty by putting to much pressure in the blocks. What's the recommended, safe limits I should stay under when I'm testing?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> I am planning on testing my system for leaks using an air pump before I fill it with water.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101/
> 
> According to the responses in the other thread, it sounds like 10 PSI or so is a good, safe number to test with but I thought it would probably be smart to ask in this thread so I make sure I'm not voiding my warranty by putting to much pressure in the blocks. What's the recommended, safe limits I should stay under when I'm testing?


As long as you understand that a WC loop does not need to be air tight, but water tight I really don't see a problem. Still, the pressure crated by the water will be about the same as found in 1 atmosphere, or 101325 Pascal and 14.696 psi. So I don't see a problem with 10 PSI, but I would wait for one of the EK reps before testing as you suggested.

I could of course just be talking out of my ass on this one, but then again we can only hope someone with real knowledge comes along and corrects that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> I am planning on testing my system for leaks using an air pump before I fill it with water.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101/
> 
> According to the responses in the other thread, it sounds like 10 PSI or so is a good, safe number to test with but I thought it would probably be smart to ask in this thread so I make sure I'm not voiding my warranty by putting to much pressure in the blocks. What's the recommended, safe limits I should stay under when I'm testing?
> 
> 
> 
> As long as you understand that a WC loop does not need to be air tight, but water tight I really don't see a problem. Still, the pressure crated by the water will be about the same as found in 1 atmosphere, or 101325 Pascal and 14.696 psi. So I don't see a problem with 10 PSI, but I would wait for one of the EK reps before testing as you suggested.
> 
> I could of course just be talking out of my ass on this one, but then again we can only hope someone with real knowledge comes along and corrects that.
Click to expand...

Erm...

Trust me,it works.

Pressure produced by most WC pumps is around 7 PSI,atmospheric pressure doesnt factor into the equation.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Erm...
> 
> Trust me,it works.
> 
> Pressure produced by most WC pumps is around 7 PSI,atmospheric pressure doesnt factor into the equation.


Which is why I said I might be talking out of my ass on this one... you see? it's always good to have people who actually know stuff rather than me who just wings it









Oh well... I tried









in regards to the pressure produced by the WC pump however, this is entirely different than what will be attempted here. A WC pump essentially circulates the water and it just goes around and around in a loop. This essentially nullifies the actual pressure of what the pump can put out. The pressure produced by the pump only dictates the force and speed of the water flow, not the actual atmospheric pressure inside the loop. The reason this is different is that the air being put in to the loop will be from an outside source, thus increasing the local atmospheric pressure. It's the difference of circulating the air inside a tire and filling it with more air.

Now if you were to set up a pump and connect it to an external water source and again to the loop, it would build up the pressure like in what will be attempted here. Otherwise, it really doesn't count towards how much pressure the internals of the loop is being subjected to.

Also in regards to the pump pressure again: The only place I can see it count towards pressure is when it hits corners and such in the loop, but that would only be initially (stabilizing when the loop is bleed for all air). Thus if an o-ring gives after when first filling the loop, it may be this pressure causing it to leak at initial leak tests. When a loop starts leaking over time it is usually because of a failing o-ring or some sort of crack in the system, this is usually just caused by the aging of the o-rings and damage inadvertently caused to the system.

I hope that makes sense, although I do trust you on what the loop may handle. I still don't know much about this but I do hope you get my point.

Edit: hmm, that post ended up going a different direction than expected... Anyways, take it with a grain of salt I still haven't had my morning coffee









Edit2: got my coffee now and I can see how what I said may have been misunderstood. From how I understand it (basic physics understanding), the atmospheric pressure inside the loop is already 14.696 psi before you start filling it with air. This won't register on the measuring instrument since the atmospheric pressure around it is also 14.696 psi, thus any added pressure would actually add to the existing pressure inside the loop. So this is where the confusion arises. It is of course irrelevant to measuring how much more you can add to it. To measure the amount of air needed to actually leak test the loop with air, you would have to measure the difference in pressure inflicted by the extra mass of water combined with gravity which again would amount to the force that is constantly pushing on all seals inside the loop. This calculation is however more then what I can do with my limited understanding. But suffice to say, the pressure from the internal pump has nothing to do with how much pressure the system as a whole can handle.


----------



## tiborrr12

Anything over 10PSI may severely deform most radiators. 14PSI may burst some and 28PSI burst every rad that is not brazed.

Ceaddar: FC Terminals comes without screws. You just re-use those from the stock single Terminals.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Anything over 10PSI may severely deform most radiators. 14PSI may burst some and 28PSI burst every rad that is not brazed.
> 
> Ceaddar: FC Terminals comes without screws. You just re-use those from the stock single Terminals.


I have had your PE rads up to 25 PSI with normal acrylic connections. LUMO is using them right now in fact.

I dont recommend it tho as you say....


----------



## krel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Anything over 10PSI may severely deform most radiators. 14PSI may burst some and 28PSI burst every rad that is not brazed.
> 
> Ceaddar: FC Terminals comes without screws. You just re-use those from the stock single Terminals.


Thanks, that answers it. I'll keep it to 10 PSI or less.

Rainmaker91, I think I know what you're driving at. The loop isn't actually pressurized, when you open it up you don't relieve any pressure. Instead, it's rhe head pressure from the pump that puts a load on things. The system doesn't necessarily need to be airtight, you could have an open fish tank full of water and since the pump couldn't drain it you'd be fine. However the loop itself - blocks, fittings, lines, etc. does need to be airtight so it won't leak and pressurizing the system with air is a good way to test that.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Ceaddar: FC Terminals comes without screws. You just re-use those from the stock single Terminals.


Yeah see that when I swapped out the GPU adapters. So it's all good at this end. Prefit the bridge to the blocks and looks sharp.

Shuda knowed that I would have an issue with this order though. Vendor sent everything on the list. Too bad they didn't look inside open boxes, cuz instead of two six packs of fittings I am two fittings short. Didn't notice it til I went through them to put the cushion rings on. First box was full and I applied those and prefit two to the bridge. Opened the second box and thought I picked up the first.









On EK related note, when I complete my full loop, I intend to route from my MB tray to GPU in top of Bridge and Out the top. But there is a countersunk out to allow the plug to be flush with the surface. So how do I do that leak free and keep the Out flush with the In fitting? Seems rather scary even though the Instructions show that I can.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Prefit the bridge to the blocks and looks sharp.


Pics please!


----------



## krel

Cards assembled and pressure testing


----------



## Alex132

Confession: I've never leak tested.


----------



## Kimir

Neither did I, just made sure there wasn't leaks before starting the system on (secondary psu powering the pump when filling).


----------



## seanyx11

EK Supremacy EVO - Nickel
2 EK FC970 GTX Strix - Nickel
2 EK FC970 GTX Strix Backplate - Black Acetal
EK FC Terminal Dual Serial 3-slot - Plexi
EK DBAY D5 PWM Pump w/ Aluminum Bezel
2 EK Coolstream XTX 240 Radiators
EK Coolstream PE 360 Radiator
EK CSQ 13mm/19mm Fittings - Black Nickel
EK CSQ 45deg Fittings - Black Nickel
EK CSQ 90deg Fittings - Black Nickel
EK CSQ Plug - Black Nickel
EK CSQ 8mm extender - Black Nickel
EK 5mm LED plug - Plexi
EK 3mm & 5mm TWIN Ultra White LED
EK Ekoolant EVO UV Blue

http://s1201.photobucket.com/user/s...B-4BA9-9743-FDA7A1F1D577_zpsea9qnxan.jpg.html
http://s1201.photobucket.com/user/s...A-4EFA-B19E-504BF2B64A91_zpswpm7mo6f.jpg.html
http://s1201.photobucket.com/user/s...2-47A7-9031-5F3E3A41759B_zpsrel2vrea.jpg.html
http://s1201.photobucket.com/user/s...E-4C63-8422-4D8C924D39ED_zpsperwfe9b.jpg.html


----------



## krel

I took apart my CPU block to clean it - there was crap in it from the corroded fittings, I'll post pictures of those later - cleaned it with Tarn-X, worked pretty well. Reassembled it and thought I'd pressure test it just for grins, The pressure was dropping immediately and I could hear it coming from the side of the block, took it apart and put it back together again and it's holding fine now. $20 investment for pressure testing, totally worth it.


----------



## iBored

I'm gonna use nitric acid and distilled water to fluash the stainless steel pipes in my loop. Will it affect the nickel plating on the water blocks?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> Thanks, that answers it. I'll keep it to 10 PSI or less.
> 
> Rainmaker91, I think I know what you're driving at. The loop isn't actually pressurized, when you open it up you don't relieve any pressure. Instead, it's rhe head pressure from the pump that puts a load on things. The system doesn't necessarily need to be airtight, you could have an open fish tank full of water and since the pump couldn't drain it you'd be fine. However the loop itself - blocks, fittings, lines, etc. does need to be airtight so it won't leak and pressurizing the system with air is a good way to test that.


Yeah, sort of. I do think I managed to confuse more than help though, but I'll blame the lack of coffee or something (always good to have something to blame).

It's an interesting concept, to leak test with air. Personally I don't see a point, simply because it doesn't take much to leak test with the fluid you want to use, and as long as there is no charge in the components that, then any leak would not be considered dangerous. In fact it would not surprise me if you could dip your VGA card in a bucket of water and still use it, you would just have to bee very sure that all the water would be gone before providing an electric charge to it.

Still, a leak test based on air pressure is an interesting way to do it.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> 
> 
> Cards assembled and pressure testing


Pertty!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Im looking for more of the ek zmt matte black tubing. The type that comes in the "L" kits. I cannot find anywhere in the us that has it.


The only place I have found it is directly from EK's web site.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/tubing/10-16mm-3-8-5-8-tubing/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-15-9-9-5mm-3m-retail.html

I have an L kit too and love the ZMT. Together with the nickel CSQ fittings has a real industrial look almost like hydraulic lines, which was pretty much exactly the look I was going for at the time.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> 
> 
> Cards assembled and pressure testing


Nice! Cards looking good








The clear terminal looks really good. Can't wait to see it all hooked up and running.


----------



## krel

Pressure testing the dual rads, I have three alphacool 360mm monstas in push-pull. Hopefully enough for the 5960X + three Titans


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Prefit the bridge to the blocks and looks sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> Pics please!
Click to expand...

They aren't on my cards yet because I am customizing Swiftechs Reference Heatsinks to allow them to seat properly, so keep that in mind.














These things are awesome. Too bad EK doesn't make Reference Heatsinks.



Cause I started to







the moment I took my Backsaw to the first one. $56 bucks well worth it imho. Soon as I remove everything to 8mm thickness in the middle of the cuts it should fit just fine.









~Ceadder


----------



## Roxycon

You think EK got plans on making an external PE radiator stand like the xspc rads? ek's a lot more beautiful


----------



## bigporl

Posted these in the other related forums but thought i would put them here to as i have lots of advice here as well. So here is my first attempt at a full custom loop. Again sorry for the poor pctures.


----------



## ShinGoutetsu

My first custom loop, about to start leak testing


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShinGoutetsu*
> 
> My first custom loop, about to start leak testing


Nice work, any plans on lighting up the GPU blocks?


----------



## ShinGoutetsu

Maybe, the window on a 900D is tinted though so might not really have much effect. I've got some rgb led's that i could use so I'll have an experiment


----------



## guitarhero23

Working hard to customize these EK parts!

Taping off to paint white.




Build Log


----------



## YaCantStopMe

Hey guys i just put together my first watercooled pc. So far so good no leaks. I do have a question about my fan layout though.



Right now i have it as this:
front: 2x120 intake
Top: 2x120 exaust
Back: 140 Exaust
Bottom: 140 intake

Im kind of contemplating whether or not i should switch them around. Since all im really do is dumping my heat from my front rad into my case, using the bottom fan to push it up to my top rad. Which is pretty much dumping all the heat i assume front my front rad into my top radiator, which has an exaust fan right next to it in the back that is probably fighting my top rad fans. Im sure there is a better way to do it.

Was debating on wether or not to switch my back as intake and have the top and bottom rads exaust. Atleast that way my bottom fan will give some fresh air to my front fans and the back fan will give some air to my top rad. But them im looking at 4 exausts and 2 intakes. I dont really know what i should do. Any suggestions?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaCantStopMe*
> 
> Hey guys i just put together my first watercooled pc. So far so good no leaks. I do have a question about my fan layout though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right now i have it as this:
> front: 2x120 intake
> Top: 2x120 exaust
> Back: 140 Exaust
> Bottom: 140 intake
> 
> Im kind of contemplating whether or not i should switch them around. Since all im really do is dumping my heat from my front rad into my case, using the bottom fan to push it up to my top rad. Which is pretty much dumping all the heat i assume front my front rad into my top radiator, which has an exaust fan right next to it in the back that is probably fighting my top rad fans. Im sure there is a better way to do it.
> 
> Was debating on wether or not to switch my back as intake and have the top and bottom rads exaust. Atleast that way my bottom fan will give some fresh air to my front fans and the back fan will give some air to my top rad. But them im looking at 4 exausts and 2 intakes. I dont really know what i should do. Any suggestions?


All rads as intake, and a little more intake than exhaust should be your goal IMO. With the rads as exhaust, you will end up with negative pressure...a.ka. dust magnet.


----------



## YaCantStopMe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> All rads as intake, and a little more intake than exhaust should be your goal IMO. With the rads as exhaust, you will end up with negative pressure...a.ka. dust magnet.


So what your saying is i should put my 4 rad fans as intakes and my rear and bottom fan as exaust? Every part of my case but the back fan has dust filters.


----------



## SteezyTN

Hey guys, what's the best way to flush a loop, bacteria wise? Does that make sense? I want to completely clean it out while I'm on spring break. I've head that a vinegar/water solution works, and a few others. What do you guys recommend. I want to do this while the loop is still connected to make it easier.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Hey guys, what's the best way to flush a loop, bacteria wise? Does that make sense? I want to completely clean it out while I'm on spring break. I've head that a vinegar/water solution works, and a few others. What do you guys recommend. I want to do this while the loop is still connected to make it easier.


I usually have it flushed by using distilled water plus a Dazmode Protector bottle there... and i had it in closed loop left it running for 24 hours on a bench.. then i rinse them again and run it again with another fresh batch again.. then i'm all good.

I'm sure alot of ppl has their own ways of doing things.









Edited: BTW the Dazmode Protector has all the chemicals needed to clean and santize them.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaCantStopMe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> All rads as intake, and a little more intake than exhaust should be your goal IMO. With the rads as exhaust, you will end up with negative pressure...a.ka. dust magnet.
> 
> 
> 
> So what your saying is i should put my 4 rad fans as intakes and my rear and bottom fan as exaust? Every part of my case but the back fan has dust filters.
Click to expand...

Yes, rads intake, back and bottom fans for exhaust. The extra airflow will get pushed out the vented area at the top back of the case, and any other nooks and crannies that are on the case.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaCantStopMe*
> 
> So what your saying is i should put my 4 rad fans as intakes and my rear and bottom fan as exaust? Every part of my case but the back fan has dust filters.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Yes, rads intake, back and bottom fans for exhaust. The extra airflow will get pushed out the vented area at the top back of the case, and any other nooks and crannies that are on the case.


IMHO and i know wveryone does it differant but i would have equal pressure same number of fans in as out! I have never noticed any difference in dust doing this as having a positive pressure and equal flw will allow you to move more air through the rads versus positive pressure!! But like i said this is my opinion and everyone does it differant!!


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> IMHO and i know wveryone does it differant but i would have equal pressure same number of fans in as out! I have never noticed any difference in dust doing this as having a positive pressure and equal flw will allow you to move more air through the rads versus positive pressure!! But like i said this is my opinion and everyone does it differant!!


I agree. I like to try and stay as close to even as I can while still maintaining positive pressure. There is no benefit going from slightly positive pressure to very high positive pressure dust wise. Air will either be coming in through the cracks or not. As long as you have any positive pressure at all the air will only come through the fans and not through all the cracks and other perforations on the case.

The higher the pressure you have in your case the harder it will be for fans to overcome that pressure and force air though your rads, and don't underestimate just how strong that pressure can be either. All of my fans are controllable and if I turn all my intakes up, and all the exhausts down, then turn my smallest intake fan (an 80mm Radio Shack fan) to its lowest setting, it will come to a complete stop as it can't overcome the pressure. I have solid PCI blanking slots, and have taped up most the perforations on my case though, so its easy build high pressure in the case. I taped up all the cracks so I could get a better idea of exactly how much air was coming in and out of the case, and so that I could better direct the flow of air through the case.

Also when you have a good balance of airflow having fans with high static pressure becomes less important as the air will naturally want to flow those spaces anyway, and your fans won't have to work to overcome the pressure of the case.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaCantStopMe*
> 
> Hey guys i just put together my first watercooled pc. So far so good no leaks. I do have a question about my fan layout though.
> 
> 
> 
> Right now i have it as this:
> front: 2x120 intake
> Top: 2x120 exaust
> Back: 140 Exaust
> Bottom: 140 intake
> 
> Im kind of contemplating whether or not i should switch them around. Since all im really do is dumping my heat from my front rad into my case, using the bottom fan to push it up to my top rad. Which is pretty much dumping all the heat i assume front my front rad into my top radiator, which has an exaust fan right next to it in the back that is probably fighting my top rad fans. Im sure there is a better way to do it.
> 
> Was debating on wether or not to switch my back as intake and have the top and bottom rads exaust. Atleast that way my bottom fan will give some fresh air to my front fans and the back fan will give some air to my top rad. But them im looking at 4 exausts and 2 intakes. I dont really know what i should do. Any suggestions?


Really I think the way you have it right now is pretty good. If you turned your front two fans into exhausts you would have very little airflow over your motherboard as the bottom intake would pull air straight into the front rad, and if you turned the rear exhaust into an intake it would pull air straight into the top rad. The way you have it now, you have the same number of fans pulling air in as you do out and all the air has to pass over the motherboard on its way out.

Also, if you switched the ear exhaust, but then the colored ring on the corsair fan wouldn't be visible.

If you want to try switching something around, I would switch the top rad to an intake and have 4 in 2 out for positive pressure, and so that both rad are getting unheated air from outside the case.

P.S. Nice rig. I like the selection of components. The thick front rad, the swiftech AIO, the armored motherboard, and the EK bridge all contribute to a kind of heavy duty bulky metal look. I also like the how the tubing coming in and out of the CPU block is the parallel and approximately the same length. That gives it a clean look. Also all the tubing runs are short and straight. Great job!


----------



## YaCantStopMe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Really I think the way you have it right now is pretty good. If you turned your front two fans into exhausts you would have very little airflow over your motherboard as the bottom intake would pull air straight into the front rad, and if you turned the rear exhaust into an intake it would pull air straight into the top rad. The way you have it now, you have the same number of fans pulling air in as you do out and all the air has to pass over the motherboard on its way out.
> 
> Also, if you switched the ear exhaust, but then the colored ring on the corsair fan wouldn't be visible.
> 
> If you want to try switching something around, I would switch the top rad to an intake and have 4 in 2 out for positive pressure, and so that both rad are getting unheated air from outside the case.
> 
> P.S. Nice rig. I like the selection of components. The thick front rad, the swiftech AIO, the armored motherboard, and the EK bridge all contribute to a kind of heavy duty bulky metal look. I also like the how the tubing coming in and out of the CPU block is the parallel and approximately the same length. That gives it a clean look. Also all the tubing runs are short and straight. Great job!


Thanks for the compliments. I was orginally going to run the cpu to the front rad then into the gpus, but read that loop order doest make to much a difference so figured it would look better without tubes criss crossing all over the place. I switched the top two fans to intake and the bottom to exaust going to see how that goes.

One thing im debating on adding though it a second pump to put in the bottom next to the front rad. I feel like im pushing my h220x's pump a little to much. I dont see much water movement in the res unless i crank it up to above like 80% and at that level the pump is kind of loud. I was only running it at 50% when i was just cooling my cpu and i was seeing the same flow im seeing now at 80%+. The pump is dead silent aslong as i keep it under 60% but i dont think im gettting a good enough flow. Not to mention it would probably be good to have two incase one decided to crap the bed. One thing im wondering is doest it matter if you use two different pumps? do you have to kind of sync them together or could i run them at two different speeds. The swiftech MCP655-B is the pump im looking at.


----------



## Nichismo

I really hate the yellowish tint that the lighting in my room gives.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really hate the yellowish tint that the lighting in my room gives.


You really made the computer look great. I'll tell you, I'm not really a fan of angled fittings with rigid tubing but you made it look excellent.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> You really made the computer look great. I'll tell you, I'm not really a fan of angled fittings with rigid tubing but you made it look excellent.


thanks, it was a ton of work to make what I thought would be minor changes respective to my previous build. I get some relatively polar views on rigid tubing, it seems like most people are either adamant about how much they love the aesthetics of it and some whom aren't fond of it. But in my opinion, its still in its rather early stages and im not too fond of most rigid tube systems either, mainly because of the lack of variety on the market, and the lack of proper routing (once in a blue moon do I see someone truly take the time to have proper angles/level runs) I really only like Bitspower Crystal link, both for quality and aesthetics both in my opinion being far and away the best in both categories, im really happy that they released a 16mm tubing and fitting line. All of my builds with it have utilized fittings at the angles because I prefer the aesthetics and convenience of this, but I know this is really expensive. It wasnt until I noticed a few 16mm sized rigid tubing that I saw loops with bent tubing that still gave the industrial, plumbing style that I love acrylic tubing for. The 13mm sized primochill tubing and fittings to me have always just struck me as a little tacky and cheap looking, and failed to capture whats great about rigid tubing from my perspective. And when pastel colored coolant is used with it, I feel like this is perpetuated even more. If I was going to build a rigid loop without BP fittings or just a more budget friendly one, I would definately use EK's latest fittings, they have really stepped it up with the new colors, variety and still provide a good price.

But I think for the better, eventually everyone will be using rigid tubing and it will become standard in almost every single custom loop. It just suits the overall purpose and pursuits of performance rigs in every aspect, and in the long run is a good investment for enthusiasts like us.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really hate the yellowish tint that the lighting in my room gives.


Nearly as many pumps as fans.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Nearly as many pumps as fans.


haha, yeah. I usually dont even have some of the fans turned on, as its very quiet. This pump setup has suprised me, its working so well, my temps are amazing. Very happy I went with these instead of 2 D5s.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaCantStopMe*
> 
> Thanks for the compliments. I was orginally going to run the cpu to the front rad then into the gpus, but read that loop order doest make to much a difference so figured it would look better without tubes criss crossing all over the place. I switched the top two fans to intake and the bottom to exaust going to see how that goes.
> 
> One thing im debating on adding though it a second pump to put in the bottom next to the front rad. I feel like im pushing my h220x's pump a little to much. I dont see much water movement in the res unless i crank it up to above like 80% and at that level the pump is kind of loud. I was only running it at 50% when i was just cooling my cpu and i was seeing the same flow im seeing now at 80%+. The pump is dead silent aslong as i keep it under 60% but i dont think im gettting a good enough flow. Not to mention it would probably be good to have two incase one decided to crap the bed. One thing im wondering is doest it matter if you use two different pumps? do you have to kind of sync them together or could i run them at two different speeds. The swiftech MCP655-B is the pump im looking at.


You don't have to match the pumps if you are running in serial. I have an XSPC X20 pump and a Swiftech MCP50x running in serial. The MCP50X is much more powerful than the X20 and this setup hasn't given me any problems. Whenever you first fill and bleed the loop, you should probably just run the pump that is connected to the reservoir by itself until you get most of the air out of the loop. Then turn on the second pump once all your lines have water in them.


----------



## YaCantStopMe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> You don't have to match the pumps if you are running in serial. I have an XSPC X20 pump and a Swiftech MCP50x running in serial. The MCP50X is much more powerful than the X20 and this setup hasn't given me any problems. Whenever you first fill and bleed the loop, you should probably just run the pump that is connected to the reservoir by itself until you get most of the air out of the loop. Then turn on the second pump once all your lines have water in them.


Alright thanks. Im probably going to pick this up instead. http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xres-140-d5-pwm-incl-pump.html#Details The res on the h220x is a pain to fill so this would make it alot easier to fill and bleed my system.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaCantStopMe*
> 
> Alright thanks. Im probably going to pick this up instead. http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xres-140-d5-pwm-incl-pump.html#Details The res on the h220x is a pain to fill so this would make it alot easier to fill and bleed my system.


Are you going to continue to use the the Swiftech H220x as well? I am not sure how it works having two reservoirs, but I think you may lose some of your flow or pressure as the water loses momentum when it enters the second res. If you go straight from the H220X to the new pump/res you should be okay, but you may want to research this more.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Are you going to continue to use the the Swiftech H220x as well? I am not sure how it works having two reservoirs, but I think you may lose some of your flow or pressure as the water loses momentum when it enters the second res. If you go straight from the H220X to the new pump/res you should be okay, but you may want to research this more.


It is a closed loop system so number of reservoirs dose not matter and will not affect the flow!!!!


----------



## ozzy1925

got my last wc parts from Ek for my build:


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> got my last wc parts from Ek for my build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What is that thing in the bottom left of the first picture?


----------



## tiborrr12

Keychain


----------



## pathfindercod

where do I get a keychain?!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> What is that thing in the bottom left of the first picture?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Keychain


yesss, I will save it for my new car


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Keychain


I see your keychain and raise you a:


----------



## tiborrr12

I double that with Egami's EK pancake model:


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I double that with Egami's EK pancake model:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Is this a real product? Can I have one please?!


----------



## seross69

No really where do we get a Keychain???


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I double that with Egami's EK pancake model:
> 
> [im
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> g]http://cdn.overclock.net/8/86/8681f3ee_21520EP.jpeg[/img]


damn, now i want a pancake







but i only have teacakes


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I double that with Egami's EK pancake model:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


LOL! +rep for that


----------



## dilster97

Just waiting for the 980 K|NGP|N block.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I double that with Egami's EK pancake model:


Too bad the mold melted into the pancake lol.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Too bad the mold melted into the pancake lol.


haha. i thought that too.

could make one out of aluminium


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah you can. If you want early onstage dementia or alsheimers. Lol

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Board and blocks ready for the EK Vulture build.











Still need to edge the GPU PCB's with gold vinyl and make a cover for the I/O...

And the case is painted,just re-building it now.


----------



## szeged

Looks damn good bneg


----------



## tatmMRKIV

yeah I love EK clean blocks


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Board and blocks ready for the EK Vulture build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still need to edge the GPU PCB's with gold vinyl and make a cover for the I/O...
> 
> And the case is painted,just re-building it now.


I thought the vulture was an ITX?!


----------



## LandonAaron

I am looking at the EK Supremacy EVO Elite Edition Waterblock LGA 2011-3. I really like how the elite edition has the chrome mounting base instead of black. Besides the color the only difference between the elite edition and standard edition seems to be the inclusion of the EK Indigo Extreme TIM. However it says, "TIM Indigo Xtreme is platform dependant applicator. Please use the appropriate applicator for your CPU type! For Intel LGA-2011-3 socket CPUs only". So would I not be able to use the TIM on my socket LGA 1150 i7-4790k?


----------



## VSG

You are right, Indigo Extreme is socket specific.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I am looking at the EK Supremacy EVO Elite Edition Waterblock LGA 2011-3. I really like how the elite edition has the chrome mounting base instead of black. Besides the color the only difference between the elite edition and standard edition seems to be the inclusion of the EK Indigo Extreme TIM. However it says, "TIM Indigo Xtreme is platform dependant applicator. Please use the appropriate applicator for your CPU type! For Intel LGA-2011-3 socket CPUs only". So would I not be able to use the TIM on my socket LGA 1150 i7-4790k?


That's correct. You would need the EVO Elite Intel 115x model.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I am looking at the EK Supremacy EVO Elite Edition Waterblock LGA 2011-3. I really like how the elite edition has the chrome mounting base instead of black. Besides the color the only difference between the elite edition and standard edition seems to be the inclusion of the EK Indigo Extreme TIM. However it says, "TIM Indigo Xtreme is platform dependant applicator. Please use the appropriate applicator for your CPU type! For Intel LGA-2011-3 socket CPUs only". So would I not be able to use the TIM on my socket LGA 1150 i7-4790k?


Also the indigo is not for newer users!! It is anlot harder to apply right than other tim's! You have to use cpu to melt it so you let the temp go way up!! Need to read instructions before you buy this! Board has to be flat!!! Etc


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> I thought the vulture was an ITX?!


mATX mod


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Board and blocks ready for the EK Vulture build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still need to edge the GPU PCB's with gold vinyl and make a cover for the I/O...
> 
> And the case is painted,just re-building it now.


Beautiful setup B-Neg! Great photos too









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> I thought the vulture was an ITX?!


Originally it's an ITX case but when you merge it with B-Neg magic this is what can happen


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Board and blocks ready for the EK Vulture build.


I say red vynil the copper bits on the card that are visible.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I say red vynil the copper bits on the card that are visible.


Dude, don't touch that with any friggin vinyl stickers!! That is pure art right there!


----------



## ARacoma9999

I'm always hesitant about going to product pages on OCN cause I see the member pictures of their builds and I can only wither in shame and be amazed with the wow of the clean in very builds.

Anyway, I just wanted to ask anyone who bought the Thermospehere if they'd recommend it. I usually hear people say that watercooling a card like mine (MSI R9 270x 2GB Gaming Edition) is a waste of money and to just wait for a higher end card to get the whole pretty plate deal.

So yeah, there's the question. Thanks for any info, and y'all keep up on those confidence annihilating pictures of your super wow much jealous builds <3

Edit: Grammar and stuff


----------



## kl6mk6

EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Water Block - Nickel/Acetal
2 x EK-FC970 GTX ACX Waterblock - Nickel + Acetal
2 x EK-FC970 GTX ACX Backplate - Black
EK-D5 Vario XRES 140 (incl. pump)
EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel 3-Slot - Acetal


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> I'm always hesitant about going to product pages on OCN cause I see the member pictures of their builds and I can only wither in shame and be amazed with the wow of the clean in very builds.
> 
> Anyway, I just wanted to ask anyone who bought the Thermospehere if they'd recommend it. I usually hear people say that watercooling a card like mine (MSI R9 270x 2GB Gaming Edition) is a waste of money and to just wait for a higher end card to get the whole pretty plate deal.
> 
> So yeah, there's the question. Thanks for any info, and y'all keep up on those confidence annihilating pictures of your super wow much jealous builds <3
> 
> Edit: Grammar and stuff


Tired of hearing "don't do it, its a waste of money"! If I want to water cool I will watercool! It's not always about performance, some folks just like the ascetics, or the learning curve of knowledge. Don't answer my question with "waste of time", answer it with good information. Unless of course I ask if it's a waste of time, lol.


----------



## ARacoma9999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Tired of hearing "don't do it, its a waste of money"! If I want to water cool I will watercool! It's not always about performance, some folks just like the ascetics, or the learning curve of knowledge. Don't answer my question with "waste of time", answer it with good information. Unless of course I ask if it's a waste of time, lol.


Amen, brother. I asked if it was worth it in the performance department. Not your smug opinion that you think is obviously the correct opinion that should be implemented into everyone's opinions as a model of how to think. Or something. Anyway, is there a chart or some data picture type thing that shows performance gains? I know Google would probably pull it up instantly, but I feel the need to be awkward and linger around here, yes, in an awkward stance, if you were wondering.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> Amen, brother. I asked if it was worth it in the performance department. Not your smug opinion that you think is obviously the correct opinion that should be implemented into everyone's opinions as a model of how to think. Or something. Anyway, is there a chart or some data picture type thing that shows performance gains? I know Google would probably pull it up instantly, but I feel the need to be awkward and linger around here, yes, in an awkward stance, if you were wondering.


I think what you're asking is if watercoolong worth it if you have an older Gpu. I think it is just for the fun and experience of it. But keep in mind if you are thinking of upgrading your gpu later, you will be paying for another block for it at the same time, so factor that in. In the end it'll come down to your budget and what you want out of your pc. Do the research then do more research. Most of all dont get upset if people dont like your questions, theyre not worth the energy. As for a performance gain chart, are you refering to watercooled vs air, or older gpu vs newer gpus?


----------



## ARacoma9999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I think what you're asking is if watercoolong worth it if you have an older Gpu. I think it is just for the fun and experience of it. But keep in mind if you are thinking of upgrading your gpu later, you will be paying for another block for it at the same time, so factor that in. In the end it'll come down to your budget and what you want out of your pc. Do the research then do more research. Most of all dont get upset if people dont like your questions, theyre not worth the energy. As for a performance gain chart, are you refering to watercooled vs air, or older gpu vs newer gpus?


Hmm, good points. I think the question for my performance inquiry would be watercooled vs. air on any card, old or new. I was just confused cause the only way I can cool my GPU now is a universal block, but the water vs air performance increase you bring up applies to any quality card really. So yeah, I was curious as to the performance increase of water vs air on GPUs.


----------



## mus1mus

Here's a little for you.

Stock cooler - http://www.3dmark.com/fs/2626037

EK full cover - http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4315606


----------



## ARacoma9999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Here's a little for you.
> 
> Stock cooler - http://www.3dmark.com/fs/2626037
> 
> EK full cover - http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4315606


Hot damn. That's quite the performance gain.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Here's a little for you.
> 
> Stock cooler - http://www.3dmark.com/fs/2626037
> 
> EK full cover - http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4315606


Is this with the same clock speeds though? Or are you implying that you're able to OC because of the cooling you get.

EDIT: Forgot it tells the speeds in the results. So while the block definitely allows you to OC note to the guy above me that the performance was in the OC, the block just assisted in cooling it to achieve a good OC. Just slapping it on your card won't make it do that.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Is this with the same clock speeds though? Or are you implying that you're able to OC because of the cooling you get.
> 
> EDIT: Forgot it tells the speeds in the results. So while the block definitely allows you to OC note to the guy above me that the performance was in the OC, the block just assisted in cooling it to achieve a good OC. Just slapping it on your card won't make it do that.


Actually, it will. With water block the card will be able to sustain 1GHz clock speed throughout the whole gaming/benchmark session while the air cooled one will surely throttle quickly down into the 750-800MHz range.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Is this with the same clock speeds though? Or are you implying that you're able to OC because of the cooling you get.
> 
> EDIT: Forgot it tells the speeds in the results. So while the block definitely allows you to OC note to the guy above me that the performance was in the OC, the block just assisted in cooling it to achieve a good OC. Just slapping it on your card won't make it do that.


lol. It's kind of a no-brainer really.

First off, the guy is asking what performance gain can one expect from watercooling. That means OC gains! We are at OCN for one.

2. It's a 290! Notoriously known to be HOT! and THROTTLING! If that will not make you change your thoughts,

3. Try to OC a high-end card as much as you can. You'll have more issues with it than you'll have with water. And scores less than on water. It might not be huge to be significant in numbers, but you know how much stress you're giving it.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Actually, it will. With water block the card will be able to sustain 1GHz clock speed throughout the whole gaming/benchmark session while the air cooled one will surely throttle quickly down into the 750-800MHz range.


Ahh yes this is definitely true. Just didn't want someone with a card on air getting a 9000 score on non OC to buy something thinking he just puts it on and all of a sudden its 10,000 which wouldn't happen if the card didn't reach those limits. But yea if it's a hot card or OC'ing or his on air card reaches that limit and it'll throttle definitely will be better with the block


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Okay, folks... I'm looking to do my first custom loop using the EK FC980 GPU blocks and I was wondering about something...

One of the add-on options for purchasing the blocks is the EK-FC terminal. Is that something that is recommended for use or can it be omitted?

Also, they come in serial and parallel varieties. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I see your keychain and raise you a:


Bahaha


----------



## MrMD

Can some recommend me a temp sensor with a longish probe,so that it can be mounted to the fillport of an ek pump/res combo?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> Hmm, good points. I think the question for my performance inquiry would be watercooled vs. air on any card, old or new. I was just confused cause the only way I can cool my GPU now is a universal block, but the water vs air performance increase you bring up applies to any quality card really. So yeah, I was curious as to the performance increase of water vs air on GPUs.


The main performance gain you will see will be quieter running under load and cooler temperatures. Since I'm running 2 GPUs in SLI they were really loud under heavy load (I am really sensitive to background noise). It made sense to go watercooling for that reason. I also saw temps on my GPUs go from ~80-85 under heavy load (with quieter fan curve) to a healthy ~50C under full load watercooled. My CPU temps also came down an average of ~12C running stress programs going from a Corsair H90 to a custom loop. Now this didn't necessarily increase "performance" directly, but it did open the door for overclocking my CPU another +100MHz and my GPUs another +50MHz core and +100Memory with no stability issues.

If you don't have issues with computer noise, and you want performance gains, I would go with a GPU upgrade first. Especially if you don't plan on overclocking your current build. I hope that answered your question a little bit.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Can some recommend me a temp sensor with a longish probe,so that it can be mounted to the fillport of an ek pump/res combo?


This is may not be as elegant of a solution as you are looking for, but it is super cheap. I drilled a hole into a plastic radiator plug and siliconed it in. I don't remember exactly how long the lead is, but its somewhere in the neighborhood of 24". Fairly easy to mount the display as well. Fair warning: Nothing fast about fasttech, shipping out of China.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10002337/1169400-digital-compact-1-5-lcd-thermometer-with-outdoor

This will be more elegant, but is not something that will work well on a fill port.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-temperature-sensor-in-line-2x-g1-4-inner-thread-black-nickel.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Gonna weigh in on the GPU issue since I nrought up Thermospheres.

1st) With GPU only blocks, they can be transferred to the next card, should you upgrade. You just get a new adapter plate if your card requires it. So instead of buying a new block, you're paying less than $10 for the new plate.

2nd) As mentioned it helps in the OC dept. So I won't rehash this. But for the worth it factor I will say it is if you have an entry card that allows you to OC.

Lastly if you wish to make youe system quieter thos os another reason ro watercool even entry cards. I have a 5770 Reference card so it has the hamster wheel. So do my 6870s. You fellas think I am gonna miss them when I've got my cards in the loop? I can and will add a 60mm fan to my heatsinks and use the stock fan connectors on my cards to cool the VRM but that shouldn't be near as loud with decent fans ramped up over these hamster wheels.

So yes I think it's worth it. And hey it ties everything together in the process.









~Ceadder


----------



## ARacoma9999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Is this with the same clock speeds though? Or are you implying that you're able to OC because of the cooling you get.
> 
> EDIT: Forgot it tells the speeds in the results. So while the block definitely allows you to OC note to the guy above me that the performance was in the OC, the block just assisted in cooling it to achieve a good OC. Just slapping it on your card won't make it do that.


I'm aware that cooling a component without OCing it won't give it a performance boost. I should've clarified if it'll let me achieve higher OC settings in my other clarification of what I was really asking.

I feel like I'm confusing everyone. And myself.


----------



## ARacoma9999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> The main performance gain you will see will be quieter running under load and cooler temperatures. Since I'm running 2 GPUs in SLI they were really loud under heavy load (I am really sensitive to background noise). It made sense to go watercooling for that reason. I also saw temps on my GPUs go from ~80-85 under heavy load (with quieter fan curve) to a healthy ~50C under full load watercooled. My CPU temps also came down an average of ~12C running stress programs going from a Corsair H90 to a custom loop. Now this didn't necessarily increase "performance" directly, but it did open the door for overclocking my CPU another +100MHz and my GPUs another +50MHz core and +100Memory with no stability issues.
> 
> If you don't have issues with computer noise, and you want performance gains, I would go with a GPU upgrade first. Especially if you don't plan on overclocking your current build. I hope that answered your question a little bit.


Yeah, you gave me the answer I was really looking for, even though my wording wasn't too great. I appreciate you taking your time to show me the OC settings you could get and whatnot


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Can some recommend me a temp sensor with a longish probe,so that it can be mounted to the fillport of an ek pump/res combo?


the bitspower ones are about a cm long


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Can some recommend me a temp sensor with a longish probe,so that it can be mounted to the fillport of an ek pump/res combo?


Koolance has a really long one, not sure of the model just check their site. If you want smaller I would recommend EK or Bitspower


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Wow... okay, sorry for asking.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Wow... okay, sorry for asking.


Have some patience, man!

Your blocks will come with two acetal single GPU terminal units on it. You can get replacement single units in plexi.

If having multiple blocks then you can get the multi-GPU terminals, in acetal or plexi, to suit your motherboard's PCI-E slot configuration and number of GPUs to make plumbing potentially easier- that's all. You don't NEED them. Serial or parallel won't matter much unless you are going with >= 3 blocks to be honest.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Wow... okay, sorry for asking.
> 
> 
> 
> Have some patience, man!
Click to expand...

Patience is one thing.

When you post a question and everyone else skips right over it and either continues their conversations or answers questions that came after mine, that's different. It tells me that my question got lost in the mix. I was simply calling attention to it again.
Quote:


> Your blocks will come with two acetal single GPU terminal units on it. You can get replacement single units in plexi.
> 
> If having multiple blocks then you can get the multi-GPU terminals, in acetal or plexi, to suit your motherboard's PCI-E slot configuration and number of GPUs to make plumbing potentially easier- that's all. You don't NEED them. Serial or parallel won't matter much unless you are going with >= 3 blocks to be honest.


Just two GPUs here. Given that I have an ASUS RIVBE, would I need to get the dual three-slot or just a dual?


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> the bitspower ones are about a cm long


ahh these look perfect,and compatible with the XSPC displays,thank you


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Patience is one thing.
> 
> When you post a question and everyone else skips right over it and either continues their conversations or answers questions that came after mine, that's different. It tells me that my question got lost in the mix. I was simply calling attention to it again.
> Just two GPUs here. Given that I have an ASUS RIVBE, would I need to get the dual three-slot or just a dual?


I think you need the 3 slotter, but best to measure the gap on your board and compare with the instructions on the EK website


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Patience is one thing.
> 
> When you post a question and everyone else skips right over it and either continues their conversations or answers questions that came after mine, that's different. It tells me that my question got lost in the mix. I was simply calling attention to it again.
> Just two GPUs here. Given that I have an ASUS RIVBE, would I need to get the dual three-slot or just a dual?


You give a heavy nudge


----------



## krel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Patience is one thing.
> 
> When you post a question and everyone else skips right over it and either continues their conversations or answers questions that came after mine, that's different. It tells me that my question got lost in the mix. I was simply calling attention to it again.
> Just two GPUs here. Given that I have an ASUS RIVBE, would I need to get the dual three-slot or just a dual?


Sometimes people just don't know, so asking again is helpful, or in a busy thread by the time the guy who knows the answer happens along there's been 10, or 50, or 200 posts since then.







The "sorry for asking" is a little passive aggressive, I don't let my kids get away with that either so you need to think about what you've done.









Parallel is less flow-restrictive, from what I've read. Apparently GPU blocks tend to be fairly restrictive, and parallel tends to run a little cooler, again just from what I've read. As far as spacing goes, standard slot spacing is 20mm. Are you putting the cards in at 40mm or 60mm?


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> You give a heavy nudge


Subtlety and tact have never been my strong suits.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Just two GPUs here. Given that I have an ASUS RIVBE, would I need to get the dual three-slot or just a dual?


I had the same issue, and I actually bought the wrong one. I needed the 3 slot, but ordered the regular one. I ended up ordering the right one and had to wait a few extra days to finish the build. I got the parallel one for a less restricted flow overall. It really does the trick. that being said, the EK block was a poor option for me. it is very limited on the available configurations, and because EVGA 970 has the power right next to the block i could only use it one way, upside down. For your board it looks like you need the regular one. If you are looking for one in black acetyl i have an extra









here's the regular spacing



and a pic of how i had to run my 3 slot (notice the power location so i couldnt use the one side port as i had intended)


----------



## snef




----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Patience is one thing.
> 
> When you post a question and everyone else skips right over it and either continues their conversations or answers questions that came after mine, that's different. It tells me that my question got lost in the mix. I was simply calling attention to it again.
> Just two GPUs here. Given that I have an ASUS RIVBE, would I need to get the dual three-slot or just a dual?


For that board to use the two X16 slots you need a Triple bridge (not dual three slot) and a blanking plate for the middle slot. Or you can just use a Dual bridge and just have the cards x16 and x8


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mixed emotions. On one hand, its elegant, and masterfully executed. On the other hand, Sparkly is really not my thing. As always though, watching this thing come together will be a treat. Maybe I am just being narrow sighted, and the end result will still blow my mind.


----------



## krel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*


Please tell me there's going to be a unicorn on there.

edit. *THIS* one.







You will be a god amongst men if you make this happen.


----------



## szeged

Manicorn power.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Manicorn power.


I will personally pay for it if you get that put full sized on the hood of your new car.

in fact I bet we can do a local kickstarter for getting the whole thing wrapped in Manicorn and have the funds raised in less than 24 hours.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> The "sorry for asking" is a little passive aggressive, I don't let my kids get away with that either so you need to think about what you've done.




Quote:


> Parallel is less flow-restrictive, from what I've read. Apparently GPU blocks tend to be fairly restrictive, and parallel tends to run a little cooler, again just from what I've read. As far as spacing goes, standard slot spacing is 20mm. Are you putting the cards in at 40mm or 60mm?


Not sure, but I do know that to get the dual x16 ability, I need to place them in the first and third PCI 3.0 slots.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I had the same issue, and I actually bought the wrong one. I needed the 3 slot, but ordered the regular one. I ended up ordering the right one and had to wait a few extra days to finish the build. I got the parallel one for a less restricted flow overall. It really does the trick. that being said, the EK block was a poor option for me. it is very limited on the available configurations, and because EVGA 970 has the power right next to the block i could only use it one way, upside down. For your board it looks like you need the regular one. If you are looking for one in black acetyl i have an extra
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's the regular spacing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a pic of how i had to run my 3 slot (notice the power location so i couldnt use the one side port as i had intended)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> For that board to use the two X16 slots you need a Triple bridge (not dual three slot) and a blanking plate for the middle slot. Or you can just use a Dual bridge and just have the cards x16 and x8


Ah. Thank you, gentlemen, for shedding light onto what is, to me, still a subject matter that confuses me to no end.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please tell me there's going to be a unicorn on there.
> 
> edit. *THIS* one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will be a god amongst men if you make this happen.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Even better, if he put a layer of translucent purple or lavender paint on it then added the image, it would look absolutely FABULOUS!


----------



## wigz81

Supremacy Evo (Acetal/Nickel)
Monarch X4 (Acetal/Nickel) x2
Monarch Module (4 DIMM)
FBKIT-ASUS-R5E (Acetal/Nickel)
FC-GTX780ti (Acetal/Nickel) x4
FC-GTX780ti Backplate (Red) x4
FC-Terminal Quad Semi-Parallel (Acetal)
Dual Bay Res w/ D5 PWM


----------



## krel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Not sure, but I do know that to get the dual x16 ability, I need to place them in the first and third PCI 3.0 slots.


Just grab a ruler or caliper and measure center-to-center. Bet it's 60mm.


----------



## snef

hahahahahha

I know gold flake is not for everyone

but keep in mind Ancient Egypt, white and gold dresses

now under normal light


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> hahahahahha
> 
> *I know gold flake is not for everyone*
> 
> but keep in mind Ancient Egypt, white and gold dresses
> 
> now under normal light
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think it's beautiful snef


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> I will personally pay for it if you get that put full sized on the hood of your new car.
> 
> in fact I bet we can do a local kickstarter for getting the whole thing wrapped in Manicorn and have the funds raised in less than 24 hours.


If I don't have to pay for it I would 100% do it no joke lol.


----------



## Wirerat

Hood of a car? Thats easy.

A tattoo would be another story.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> hahahahahha
> 
> *I know gold flake is not for everyone*
> 
> but keep in mind Ancient Egypt, white and gold dresses
> 
> now under normal light
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it's beautiful snef
Click to expand...

I agree. I would have gone a bit heavier on the gold and used some ivory or marble-esque trim, but that's just me.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Not sure, but I do know that to get the dual x16 ability, I need to place them in the first and third PCI 3.0 slots.!


Sorry, I totally didn't realize that you had to do the 1st and 3rd slot. factoring that in, I think it would look better with rigid tubing or something similar and do a parallel setup. Whatever you decide, i'm sure it will be boss. Good luck!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I think it looks fine, I mean its already white so its about as bad as it can get xD
just kidding i think its a very nice white case

But I have no doubt once all the components are in place everyone will be much more pleased


----------



## guitarhero23

Build Log


----------



## Frontside

My EK Coolstream XTX 360



Uhm sorry about Coolgate.








Wish i had one those PE series rads. Really love how they look







. Unfortunately they were out of stock


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Sorry, I totally didn't realize that you had to do the 1st and 3rd slot. factoring that in, I think it would look better with rigid tubing or something similar and do a parallel setup. Whatever you decide, i'm sure it will be boss. Good luck!


I say when you have triple spacing or more for ahead and use tubing plus fittings or something like the HD tube adapters. I just like the look of the extra lines running between the cards in parallel over having the bridge block screwed to the side. When you only have dual spacing though, there just isn't enough room.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Patience is one thing.
> 
> When you post a question and everyone else skips right over it and either continues their conversations or answers questions that came after mine, that's different. It tells me that my question got lost in the mix. I was simply calling attention to it again.
> 
> Just two GPUs here. Given that I have an ASUS RIVBE, would I need to get the dual three-slot or just a dual?


Hi!

Sorry for the delay yesterday was a busy work day for me and I didn't had the time to catch up on the forums until now.









Other members have already answered you well here.

For your motherboard, you will need an EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE (Parallel or Serial) with the appropriate EK-FC Terminal BLANK to cover the middle spot on the bridge.

If you decide to go with the hardtube with fitting solution, then you would need those : EK-HD Tube 10/12mm 4-Slot (2 pcs) with some EK-HD Adapter 10/12mm

Sorry again for the delay


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build Log


Did You tape up the Csq To paint?

Why Not Take it off and Paint the Bracket Separate?




TCO


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Did You tape up the Csq To paint?
> 
> Why Not Take it off and Paint the Bracket Separate?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Well, I did to polish it, but because of where the O-ring was and stuff I didn't feel comfortable leaving it exposed (well taped up) correctly during painting and didn't want to risk doing anything wrong in painting that might make it leak onto my new CPU so I put it back together after polishing and taped it up and painted it assembled. Everything else I disassembled like the RAM block.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Well, I did to polish it, but because of where the O-ring was and stuff I didn't feel comfortable leaving it exposed (well taped up) correctly during painting and didn't want to risk doing anything wrong in painting that might make it leak onto my new CPU so I put it back together after polishing and taped it up and painted it assembled. Everything else I disassembled like the RAM block.










Can't say I agree with the concerns you expressed. But it seems you did a great job nonetheless.









TCO


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't say I agree with the concerns you expressed. But it seems you did a great job nonetheless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Yea well what can I say, I'm overly "cautious"


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Yea well what can I say, I'm overly "cautious"


Do I sense a Pun here?









You got me... Cautious.. and I get it. Lmao.

TCO


----------



## LandonAaron

I just purchased a new full nickle Supremacy Evo block. I also recently purchased a used full cover nickle R9 290 block. My R9 290 block has a little bit of corrosion on the nickle, (came that way) and I would like to avoid any corrosion occurring in the Evo block. What is a good anti-corrosive coolant to use when running a copper and nickle loop? I have just been using distilled water and biocide drops. I have red tubing so I don't need it to be colored, though if its red that is okay so long is the die isn't too heavy. I don't want to have to periodically clean out die globs or whatever.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I just purchased a new full nickle Supremacy Evo block. I also recently purchased a used full cover nickle R9 290 block. My R9 290 block has a little bit of corrosion on the nickle, (came that way) and I would like to avoid any corrosion occurring in the Evo block. What is a good anti-corrosive coolant to use when running a copper and nickle loop? I have just been using distilled water and biocide drops. I have red tubing so I don't need it to be colored, though if its red that is okay so long is the die isn't too heavy. I don't want to have to periodically clean out die globs or whatever.


Pics of corrosion on the 290 block?

And for anti-corrosion, yeah, you shouldn't have parts that will corrode in the first place. EK will replace that if it came that way.

I have an EK nickel + acetal CPU block (2nd hand, so couldn't get copper sadly) but it has Nickel plating coming off of the fins, and so far (6 months) nothing has happened. Temps are the same as they were initially and the plating coming off hasn't moved and nothing has been caught in my loop (easy to see with a massive res + DI water only).


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Pics of corrosion on the 290 block?


I don't have pics of the block. I didn't bother when I took it apart to clean it. Here is a picture of one of the plugs from the block though. The block basically looks the same way, though not quite as bad as this plug.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> What is a good anti-corrosive coolant to use when running a copper and nickle loop? I have just been using distilled water and biocide drops. I have red tubing so I don't need it to be colored, though if its red that is okay so long is the die isn't too heavy. I don't want to have to periodically clean out die globs or whatever.


Just get the EKoolant EVO Clear. Looks just like water.


----------



## NvNw

Anyone saw the new EK radiator?



http://www.ekwb.com/news/581/19/EK-introduces-EK-XRES-D5-PWM-2000-Limited-Edition/

Hope to see a build using that res.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> Anyone saw the new EK radiator?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/581/19/EK-introduces-EK-XRES-D5-PWM-2000-Limited-Edition/
> 
> Hope to see a build using that res.


Why can't I pre-order


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> Anyone saw the new EK radiator?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/581/19/EK-introduces-EK-XRES-D5-PWM-2000-Limited-Edition/
> 
> Hope to see a build using that res.


Yeah, you could call it the EK Stripper Pole.


----------



## NvNw

Maybe a EK rep can tell us the res kit come with the girl.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

http://www.overclock.net/t/1541717/heretek-an-ek-vulture-build/0_20


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Why can't I pre-order


Would buy


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1541717/heretek-an-ek-vulture-build/0_20


Always love your paint jobs B-


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> Anyone saw the new EK radiator?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/581/19/EK-introduces-EK-XRES-D5-PWM-2000-Limited-Edition/
> 
> Hope to see a build using that res.


Done


----------



## kl6mk6

WARNING - For those of you thinking about using the EK-FC970 GTX ACX Backplate for the EVGA970 SC cards. Apparently I got a different card than the one EK used for making the template. A row of capacitors(?) is in an area that will get crushed by a pad. I contacted EK and they confirmed the problem. They graciously offered me a refund, but I grew fond of the blocks. Instead of taking the refund I Dremeled out the offending piece of metal and it works fine, looks amazing too. Just wanted to let EVGA 970 SC owners know to be on the look out and make sure their card isn't an off one like mine.

The offending row of capacitors(?)


The Dremeled out pad (with heat pad and a dab of non conductive thermal paste)


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> WARNING - For those of you thinking about using the EK-FC970 GTX ACX Backplate for the EVGA970 SC cards. Apparently I got a different card than the one EK used for making the template. A row of capacitors(?) is in an area that will get crushed by a pad. I contacted EK and they confirmed the problem. They graciously offered me a refund, but I grew fond of the blocks. Instead of taking the refund I Dremeled out the offending piece of metal and it works fine, looks amazing too. Just wanted to let EVGA 970 SC owners know to be on the look out and make sure their card isn't an off one like mine.
> 
> The offending row of capacitors(?)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Dremeled out pad (with heat pad and a dab of non conductive thermal paste)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh damn, I was deciding between this and the Bitspower block and ultimately went with the Bitspower one because it was like the same price but comes WITH a backplate....Glad I did.


----------



## Kritikill

Filled out form with only being able to submit one item.
Update to the list.
Supremacy Evo Blue Edition
FC-980GTX Strix (Acetal/Nickel) x2
FC-980GTX Backplate (Black) x2
FC-Terminal Dual Serial (Acetal)
XTOP D5 Vario
UNI Pump Holder (120mm Fan)
Res X3 150


----------



## LandonAaron

Need help picking out a Mosfet block for my build.

I am getting the Supremacy EVO block original CSQ in full nickle and want to know which mosfet block will match it best:



Original CSQ Nickle and frosted Plexi:



Or in clear plexi and nickle:



Having a hard time figuring out which one to get. I like the frosted plexi one because the CSQ patter will match the CPU block, but the CSQ pattern seems pretty subtle and I am not sure it will even be that noticeable, and I like the clear plexi one because it will show the nickle base better which may look better next to the CPU block, butI am not real crazy about seeing that O ring through the block. Performance PC's has the clear one in stock so it would be a little cheaper than ordering the CSQ one from EK.

This is mainly an aesthetic upgrade. I have a black and red theme, and there is so much black I feel like I am staring into the Abyss everytime I look at my computer, so I am trying to brighten it up a bit with more fittings, lighter colored blocks, and some red, black and white PSU cables instead of just black and red. Which do yall think is the better match?


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Anybody want to buy an ek 970 strix waterblock or a gtx 690 with nickel ek block and backplate.

Picked up a pair of 290x 8gb and ek doesn't make blocks for them. Going to probably try the ek thermosphere uni blocks has anyone used these yet and any thoughs on them?


----------



## Ceadderman

I think that I am gonna have to forget running the Parallel bridge with my Thermospheres. I did a visual check of one 6870 and it looks like the mounting surface will not work with the Bridge installed. With the bridge mounted to the blocks it throws the mounting off by nearly 5mm or so.









That would suck since I will have to connect them differently than I expected. I could be wrong however since I checked with the Swiftech heatsinks that I am modding to allow for the size of the Thermospheres. Gonna have to take those to the local fabricator to get them cut to allow for Thermospheres 70mm width.









For the questions above...

Thermospheres should be just fine for the 290 cards.

I would go with the frosted CSQ setup because it matches the circles on the CPU block. Unless of course you wish to limit the amount of circles. Either one of those blocks should work well, so it pretty much comes down to aesthetics.

~Ceadder


----------



## LandonAaron

Is it possible buff out/polish forsted plexi to make it clear?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Is it possible buff out/polish forsted plexi to make it clear?


Indeed!

 Click the emoticon.









~Ceadder


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Is it possible buff out/polish forsted plexi to make it clear?


I've done it many many times. It's easy and there is alot of good guides one here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think that I am gonna have to forget running the Parallel bridge with my Thermospheres. I did a visual check of one 6870 and it looks like the mounting surface will not work with the Bridge installed. With the bridge mounted to the blocks it throws the mounting off by nearly 5mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would suck since I will have to connect them differently than I expected. I could be wrong however since I checked with the Swiftech heatsinks that I am modding to allow for the size of the Thermospheres. Gonna have to take those to the local fabricator to get them cut to allow for Thermospheres 70mm width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the questions above...
> 
> Thermospheres should be just fine for the 290 cards.
> 
> I would go with the frosted CSQ setup because it matches the circles on the CPU block. Unless of course you wish to limit the amount of circles. Either one of those blocks should work well, so it pretty much comes down to aesthetics.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Wait what do you mean not able to use the parralel bridge with the thermosphere why will it make a 5mm difference?

As far as the circles the whole build is the circle blocks so that will work well. Also I'm going to have to get the little vram heatsinks can you point me in the right direction for some good ones that won't fall off? Also one last think it's going in a haf x case should I get a new 230mm fan for the side panel to help cool the vram or should I just leave it like it is, mesh pretty much open?


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Indeed!
> 
> Click the emoticon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Cool. Well, CSQ style it is, and a fun little tedious long project to go along with it.


----------



## inedenimadam

About 130 pages ago in this thread I asked @akira749 if the X-99 Deluxe VRM block would fit on the x99-A. Like the stubborn donkey I am, I did not listen. The block did not fit.

Well, it does now, and here is that square peg in a round hole. The block had to be modified to fit, and I finally got around to it tonight.

Knocked 30C off the loaded VRM temps.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Is it possible buff out/polish forsted plexi to make it clear?
> 
> 
> 
> I've done it many many times. It's easy and there is alot of good guides one here.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think that I am gonna have to forget running the Parallel bridge with my Thermospheres. I did a visual check of one 6870 and it looks like the mounting surface will not work with the Bridge installed. With the bridge mounted to the blocks it throws the mounting off by nearly 5mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would suck since I will have to connect them differently than I expected. I could be wrong however since I checked with the Swiftech heatsinks that I am modding to allow for the size of the Thermospheres. Gonna have to take those to the local fabricator to get them cut to allow for Thermospheres 70mm width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the questions above...
> 
> Thermospheres should be just fine for the 290 cards.
> 
> I would go with the frosted CSQ setup because it matches the circles on the CPU block. Unless of course you wish to limit the amount of circles. Either one of those blocks should work well, so it pretty much comes down to aesthetics.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wait what do you mean not able to use the parralel bridge with the thermosphere why will it make a 5mm difference?
> 
> As far as the circles the whole build is the circle blocks so that will work well. Also I'm going to have to get the little vram heatsinks can you point me in the right direction for some good ones that won't fall off? Also one last think it's going in a haf x case should I get a new 230mm fan for the side panel to help cool the vram or should I just leave it like it is, mesh pretty much open?
Click to expand...

Since am using Full Card heatsinks (secured with screws) I can't say which are beSt to use with your 290.

I think that I won'won't be able to use my bridge, but I won't know for sure until I get my hsinks milled to clear the fins and the opening to allow for the larger mounting bracket.

Thermosphere is 70mm wide but the base is 60mm wide and the opening of the HS is 60mm wide and the openings for the studs to mount a Swiftech block is no aren't large enough to accept the studs on the Thermosphere.

So there is lots to do to make this work. But I am up to the task. I will know more after molding these Hsinks.









I wouldn't worry about another 230 until you have it together and know you need it.

~Ceadder


----------



## DeviousAddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Anybody want to buy an ek 970 strix waterblock or a gtx 690 with nickel ek block and backplate.
> 
> Picked up a pair of 290x 8gb and ek doesn't make blocks for them. Going to probably try the ek thermosphere uni blocks has anyone used these yet and any thoughs on them?


Which 8gb cards are you getting? I've got the sapphire vapor-x ones and Ek makes blocks for those, ive got them fitted to my cards now.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> Which 8gb cards are you getting? I've got the sapphire vapor-x ones and Ek makes blocks for those, ive got them fitted to my cards now.


He has the Tri-X (orange shroud) so it's why there's unfortunately no blocks that fit.


----------



## Domiro

I assume this only accounts for the 8GB variant?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> I assume this only accounts for the 8GB variant?


Exactly.

The 4Gb version is compatible with our EK-FC R9-290X (Rev.2.0)


----------



## iBored

Big boy toys!


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Big boy toys!


Where are the others?








Just messing with ya, it looks great.


----------



## 0m3g4

Its been quite some time since I have bought a new block (so don't flame me bro). Has EK resolved the nickel issue?
I just remember all the bad press about their nickel coming off a few years back, and they only offer a nickel block for my card ( I prefer copper blocks aesthetically )/


----------



## josetortola

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think that I am gonna have to forget running the Parallel bridge with my Thermospheres. I did a visual check of one 6870 and it looks like the mounting surface will not work with the Bridge installed. With the bridge mounted to the blocks it throws the mounting off by nearly 5mm or so.


I've used it in a pair of 6850:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josetortola*
> 
> I've just installed a couple of EK Thermosphere in my old Gygabite HD6850 OC cards. I'm putting my old rig, where I run a couple of that GPUs in X-Fire, in a new case and watercooling it.
> 
> But Thermosphere is just 1mm too short...
> 
> Card's PCB are 1mm larger than the Thermosphere's body, excluding the terminal. I wanted to use a EK-FC Dual Terminal Parallel Plexi to make the bridge betwen both cards, but that f....ng 1 mm difference was a problem.
> 
> So I've taken the EK-FC Dual Terminal and the Dremel, and made a couple of 1.5mm wide / 1.5mm depth "slots" so that "1 extra mm of pcbs" are "inserted" in the Dual Terminal body without touching it and the Terminal connects perfectly with both Thermosphere's body.
> 
> Call it a solution.
> 
> But making Thermospheres a couple of mm taller will make them more compatible with a large ammount of cards.


Not sure if it will solve your problem, but it works fine for me.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josetortola*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think that I am gonna have to forget running the Parallel bridge with my Thermospheres. I did a visual check of one 6870 and it looks like the mounting surface will not work with the Bridge installed. With the bridge mounted to the blocks it throws the mounting off by nearly 5mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've used it in a pair of 6850:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *josetortola*
> 
> I've just installed a couple of EK Thermosphere in my old Gygabite HD6850 OC cards. I'm putting my old rig, where I run a couple of that GPUs in X-Fire, in a new case and watercooling it.
> 
> But Thermosphere is just 1mm too short...
> 
> Card's PCB are 1mm larger than the Thermosphere's body, excluding the terminal. I wanted to use a EK-FC Dual Terminal Parallel Plexi to make the bridge betwen both cards, but that f....ng 1 mm difference was a problem.
> 
> So I've taken the EK-FC Dual Terminal and the Dremel, and made a couple of 1.5mm wide / 1.5mm depth "slots" so that "1 extra mm of pcbs" are "inserted" in the Dual Terminal body without touching it and the Terminal connects perfectly with both Thermosphere's body.
> 
> Call it a solution.
> 
> But making Thermospheres a couple of mm taller will make them more compatible with a large ammount of cards.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure if it will solve your problem, but it works fine for me.
Click to expand...

Hmmm







good to know, I will keep this in mind should it not work. The Heatsinks are a tad shy of the edge of the pcb, so I guess if I have to I can hit the bridge up with my Dremel as well.







+Rep for the information.

~Ceadder


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> Which 8gb cards are you getting? I've got the sapphire vapor-x ones and Ek makes blocks for those, ive got them fitted to my cards now.


Unfortunatly they are the tri x cards and they don't make a block for them...was very dissapointed in myself when I found that out but I only traded a 970 and cash for them so I think I did the right thing. Can I ask how you like the performance of them in cfx?


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0m3g4*
> 
> Its been quite some time since I have bought a new block (so don't flame me bro). Has EK resolved the nickel issue?
> I just remember all the bad press about their nickel coming off a few years back, and they only offer a nickel block for my card ( I prefer copper blocks aesthetically )/


Yes they fixed that ages ago. And personally I only really buy nickel plexi blocks and I've had absolutely no problems with then and will continue to be the only blocks I put on my components.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0m3g4*
> 
> Its been quite some time since I have bought a new block (so don't flame me bro). Has EK resolved the nickel issue?
> I just remember all the bad press about their nickel coming off a few years back, and they only offer a nickel block for my card ( I prefer copper blocks aesthetically )/


I'm not as knowledgeable as others in this thread and am a bit of an EK newbie, but I bought a 290x Copper Block used, and a 290 Nickle block used off Ebay, and the nickle one was a little corroded. I have no idea what else the guy had in his loop though, could have been aluminum from all I know. Anyway, from what I have read stay away from silver kill coils as the silver doesn't react well with nickle, and use some sort of corrosion inhibiting coolant and you should be fine. Its the coolant that bothers me. I have the upgrade bug right now and am making changes almost every weekend and that means draining and refilling the loop. And if I am using coolant that's 10 bucks literally down the drain every time I have to empty the loop.

So for now I am just going to run plain distilled water and maybe a few drops of dead water, for just a few weeks while I am making changes. Once I think I have it pretty much to the set and forget stage I will switch to coolant.


----------



## tiborrr12

Run a good premix (i.e. Ekoolant or something from the Mayhems range for example) and your loop will be fine. Don't use dead water at all, premix coolant include all the necessary biocides required for running a healthy loop.


----------



## 0m3g4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Yes they fixed that ages ago. And personally I only really buy nickel plexi blocks and I've had absolutely no problems with then and will continue to be the only blocks I put on my components.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I'm not as knowledgeable as others in this thread and am a bit of an EK newbie, but I bought a 290x Copper Block used, and a 290 Nickle block used off Ebay, and the nickle one was a little corroded. I have no idea what else the guy had in his loop though, could have been aluminum from all I know. Anyway, from what I have read stay away from silver kill coils as the silver doesn't react well with nickle, and use some sort of corrosion inhibiting coolant and you should be fine. Its the coolant that bothers me. I have the upgrade bug right now and am making changes almost every weekend and that means draining and refilling the loop. And if I am using coolant that's 10 bucks literally down the drain every time I have to empty the loop.
> 
> So for now I am just going to run plain distilled water and maybe a few drops of dead water, for just a few weeks while I am making changes. Once I think I have it pretty much to the set and forget stage I will switch to coolant.


Awesome, I have always liked EK blocks. Its good to know the quality is top notch.


----------



## =FIB=Goldberg

Hi guys can you please help I want to buy a

EK-FC Terminal QUAD Semi-Parallel

the only one I can find is this http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-fc-terminal-quad-semi-parallel-titan-ready-full-cover-water-block

(But I want a plexi one)

Does EK make one in plexi cos I cant find it anywhere


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=FIB=Goldberg*
> 
> Hi guys can you please help I want to buy a
> 
> EK-FC Terminal QUAD Semi-Parallel
> 
> the only one I can find is this http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-fc-terminal-quad-semi-parallel-titan-ready-full-cover-water-block
> 
> (But I want a plexi one)
> 
> Does EK make one in plexi cos I cant find it anywhere


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-system-quad-semi-parallel-csq-plexi.html

Like this?


----------



## =FIB=Goldberg

no thats a CSQ block but thanks for looking


----------



## LandonAaron

Just got my supremacy Evo block in full nickle.



I want to plush it to bring out some more shine. If possible I would like to buff it to a near mirror finish. Would that be possible what would the procedure be?

Right now I am just going to start by polishing with this:



probably ly on the inside to make sure it doesn't cause some funky discoloration or anything before doing the outside.


----------



## Ceadderman

It won't. But if you really question it as a polish, try Brasso. Nevr Dull really works on chrome plating though so your finish should be fine.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=FIB=Goldberg*
> 
> Hi guys can you please help I want to buy a
> 
> EK-FC Terminal QUAD Semi-Parallel
> 
> the only one I can find is this http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-fc-terminal-quad-semi-parallel-titan-ready-full-cover-water-block
> 
> (But I want a plexi one)
> 
> Does EK make one in plexi cos I cant find it anywhere


We currently don't produce the plexi version of the quad semi parallel. Maybe in the future. Dealing with big chunks of acrylic like that is tricky and sometimes the quality of the end product isn't what we expect so this cause delays.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *=FIB=Goldberg*
> 
> Hi guys can you please help I want to buy a
> 
> EK-FC Terminal QUAD Semi-Parallel
> 
> the only one I can find is this http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-fc-terminal-quad-semi-parallel-titan-ready-full-cover-water-block
> 
> (But I want a plexi one)
> 
> Does EK make one in plexi cos I cant find it anywhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We currently don't produce the plexi version of the quad semi parallel. Maybe in the future. Dealing with big chunks of acrylic like that is tricky and sometimes the quality of the end product isn't what we expect so this cause delays.
Click to expand...

He could always do like I did and go Plexi(GPU)/Acetal Bridge. Looks pretty nice for my Therms, but I bet it would look nicer still if I had FC Blocks for my cards. Which sadly I cannot get any more unless miracle of miracles happen and one or two show up on eBay.









~Ceadder


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> Anyone saw the new EK radiator?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/581/19/EK-introduces-EK-XRES-D5-PWM-2000-Limited-Edition/
> 
> Hope to see a build using that res.


That would actually be pretty neat if it was 6 feet long, and was a multi-part system. Say 1 foot of that diameter tube with 2" long radiator fins going all the way around, then the top and bottom was threaded, then you could screw on a 6" (or 1 foot) long clear acrylic tube so you can see the fluid, then you can add another 1 foot long radiator, then another 6" or 1 foot clear section, etc.

With that many fins, if you make it long enough, not only would it look cool, it would be totally silent since it would be able to radiate the heat into the room without a fan just based on surface area.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=FIB=Goldberg*
> 
> Hi guys can you please help I want to buy a
> 
> EK-FC Terminal QUAD Semi-Parallel
> 
> the only one I can find is this http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-fc-terminal-quad-semi-parallel-titan-ready-full-cover-water-block
> 
> (But I want a plexi one)
> 
> Does EK make one in plexi cos I cant find it anywhere


PPC also carries it if your in the states.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-ek-fc-bridge-quad-semi-parallel-csq-plexi.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *=FIB=Goldberg*
> 
> Hi guys can you please help I want to buy a
> 
> EK-FC Terminal QUAD Semi-Parallel
> 
> the only one I can find is this http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-fc-terminal-quad-semi-parallel-titan-ready-full-cover-water-block
> 
> (But I want a plexi one)
> 
> Does EK make one in plexi cos I cant find it anywhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PPC also carries it if your in the states.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-ek-fc-bridge-quad-semi-parallel-csq-plexi.html
Click to expand...

That won't work for the Clean series. The bridge he requires EK doesn't make that in Plexi. If you look at the pics on PPCs you will notice that it mounts to the block Center only. The one he requires, needs to mount 3 bolts per card.

~Ceadder


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It won't. But if you really question it as a polish, try Brasso. Nevr Dull really works on chrome plating though so your finish should be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Okay, I'll try this out. The guys at the parts store all really recommended it too. Thanks for the posting that Plexi Polishing link too btw. Do you know if any similar guides have been posted for polishing nickle? I want a chrome mirror finish similar to the side that contacts the CPU. I assume I would need to sand down the block to erase the machine marks in order to achieve this. But I don't know how hard it would be to sand down a solid piece of metal like this. Seems like it would take longer than sanding down plexi, and I really don't want to just "try" and end up messing it up, and possible ruining its appearance.


----------



## DeviousAddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> :SNIP:.......... Can I ask how you like the performance of them in cfx?


I love them in Xfire


----------



## LandonAaron

I dont think my block came with the right jet plates. Here is what I got:



Here is what I was suppose to get:



I think it is jet plate 3 that's missing. And that I got two of jet plate one. The one in the middle is the that cme pre-installed in the block. All three seem to have the same size opening, though maybe I just can't discern a size differnce this minute.


----------



## aerotracks

Some Fire Strike Extreme Results single and CrossFire. With dual cards, it's the power supply that is holding me back - OCP kicking in pretty quickly. Won't buy another PSU just to get the 2nd card up to 1300 MHz as well







, but glad to see there's no thermal issues whatsoever









Also, this is why I don't use sleeved cables















http://abload.de/image.php?img=1373232.jpgunul3.png

http://abload.de/image.php?img=1373751.jpg32uwi.png

http://abload.de/image.php?img=1373800t0baz.jpg


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> I love them in Xfire


Oh nice! I'm hoping to get a better 3d mark score than my dual 690s which was 16 thousand something and the guy that I got them from got like 17 or 18 thousand with a pretty similar setup as mine. I'm happy I think I made the right decision trading my 970 for them and I just found a guy that's selling a 40 inch 4k monitor and he will trade for some of the parts I have but not sure if I want to make the jump to 5k yet I'd prolly want atleast one more card for tri fire first.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It won't. But if you really question it as a polish, try Brasso. Nevr Dull really works on chrome plating though so your finish should be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, I'll try this out. The guys at the parts store all really recommended it too. Thanks for the posting that Plexi Polishing link too btw. Do you know if any similar guides have been posted for polishing nickle? I want a chrome mirror finish similar to the side that contacts the CPU. I assume I would need to sand down the block to erase the machine marks in order to achieve this. But I don't know how hard it would be to sand down a solid piece of metal like this. Seems like it would take longer than sanding down plexi, and I really don't want to just "try" and end up messing it up, and possible ruining its appearance.
Click to expand...

Don't you dare polish that nickel block with anything other than Nevr Dull or Brasso. It's Plated, so if you use anything abrasive on it you risk removing the nickel off the copper substrate. It's not worth that.

just rub a cotton ball size piece of the wadding on the block, let the Polish haze and remove the haze with a lint free cloth in circular motions. That's All you need to do. Do it as many times you feel are necessary to get the results you want. I use it on all my brightwork.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I dont think my block came with the right jet plates. Here is what I got:
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I was suppose to get:
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is jet plate 3 that's missing. And that I got two of jet plate one. The one in the middle is the that cme pre-installed in the block. All three seem to have the same size opening, though maybe I just can't discern a size differnce this minute.


J1 and J3 have the same notches, contrary to what the instructions say. However, if you look at them closely you will see that one of them is thinner that the other, that is Jet 3. I had the same issue with mine.


----------



## ozzy1925

I bought ek dual d5 top and EK-XTOP Dual D5 XRES Upgrade Link but for some reason the ek anticyclone that comes with my reservoir does fit loosely inside the D5 XRES Upgrade Link.I talked with @Jakusonfire and he told me ek uses different anticyclone for it but i cant find this in ek web store.What should i do?


----------



## Ceadderman

Wish EK still made Res conversion for the dual DDC v2. Can't find them anywhere as we'll as the EK branded anti cyclone insert. I don't need a Res since I am using FQ res. It's simply for added safety to keep the pumps wet.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerotracks*
> 
> Some Fire Strike Extreme Results single and CrossFire. With dual cards, it's the power supply that is holding me back - OCP kicking in pretty quickly. Won't buy another PSU just to get the 2nd card up to 1300 MHz as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but glad to see there's no thermal issues whatsoever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, this is why I don't use sleeved cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=1373232.jpgunul3.png
> 
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=1373751.jpg32uwi.png
> 
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=1373800t0baz.jpg


aerotracks What tubing is that ? I want some more matte black tubing. That looks like it will match my EK zmt tubing. No one in the us is selling the ek zmt tubing outside the kits currently .

Unless of course that is zmt tubing









Looks super clean btw !!


----------



## =FIB=Goldberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We currently don't produce the plexi version of the quad semi parallel. Maybe in the future. Dealing with big chunks of acrylic like that is tricky and sometimes the quality of the end product isn't what we expect so this cause delays.


Thank you for your answer its a shame you dont make one as all my other EK blocks are plexi it would have finished off the build but hey no matter. So I went ahead and purchased the block from scan all good









This is my current setup yes I know its triple but ssssshhhhhhh there is another card on its way













As you can see I am a EK fanboy









Thanks again for your help guys


----------



## aerotracks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> What tubing is that ? I want some more matte black tubing. That looks like it will match my EK zmt tubing. No one in the us is selling the ek zmt tubing outside the kits currently .
> 
> Unless of course that is zmt tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks super clean btw !!


Hi wirerat, thanks man. This is not ZMT tubing, I'm using Tygon Norprene, they come in different sizes while ZMT is 16/10 only I believe.
Don't know if a link from Aquatuning helps you, but this is what I bought:
http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/schlaeuche/schlaeuche/12062/tygon-r6012-norprene-schlauch-12-7/9-6mm-3/8-id-schwarz


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerotracks*
> 
> Hi wirerat, thanks man. This is not ZMT tubing, I'm using Tygon Norprene, they come in different sizes while ZMT is 16/10 only I believe.
> Don't know if a link from Aquatuning helps you, but this is what I bought:
> http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/schlaeuche/schlaeuche/12062/tygon-r6012-norprene-schlauch-12-7/9-6mm-3/8-id-schwarz


I had checked out some tygon but it looked like it had more gloss on it than shows in your picture.

Was the lettering on the tubing difficult remove?

Performancepcs and even amazon stock that tubing here. Thanks.


----------



## aerotracks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I had checked out some tygon but it looked like it had more gloss on it than shows in your picture.
> 
> Was the lettering on the tubing difficult remove?
> 
> Performancepcs and even amazon stock that tubing here. Thanks.


Lettering on the tubing goes off quite easily with benzine, rubbing alcohol works as well I think.
Tygon also has some black PVC tubing that is not norprene, be careful not to mix those up!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerotracks*
> 
> Lettering on the tubing goes off quite easily with benzine, rubbing alcohol works as well I think.
> Tygon also has some black PVC tubing that is not norprene, be careful not to mix those up!


norprene, got it! You been using that a long time?

I read its simluar to the zmt tubing as far as maintenance goes. No plastizer or any of that crap.

Im really just after the look though.

Ty again!


----------



## aerotracks

Yup, these tubes are around 2 years old now


----------



## Reaper28

EK, I have a quick question. Do you have a full cover nickel/plexi block for the 980 (SC, FTW etc.) ACX cards? I saw one on your site but it was the CSQ version


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerotracks*
> 
> Yup, these tubes are around 2 years old now


Nice,

One more question:
At the bottom the tube running down beside the psu, whats it connected to?


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=FIB=Goldberg*
> 
> Thank you for your answer its a shame you dont make one as all my other EK blocks are plexi it would have finished off the build but hey no matter. So I went ahead and purchased the block from scan all good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my current setup yes I know its triple but ssssshhhhhhh there is another card on its way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see I am a EK fanboy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your help guys


If I were you I would just stick to 3 way. Sli I've had nothing but problems with my quad sli..


----------



## aerotracks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> One more question:
> At the bottom the tube running down beside the psu, whats it connected to?


There's a QD3, then it goes down to the MORA 3 sitting on the floor. It's down there so it can suck cold air.
I've cut down on the number of interal rads to reduce clutter.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerotracks*
> 
> There's a QD3, then it goes down to the MORA 3 sitting on the floor. It's down there so it can suck cold air.
> I've cut down on the number of interal rads to reduce clutter.


External rad. Nice, thats what I thought.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> EK, I have a quick question. Do you have a full cover nickel/plexi block for the 980 (SC, FTW etc.) ACX cards? I saw one on your site but it was the CSQ version


The 980 FTW doesn't have any compatible waterblock.

The 980 SC uses the standard 980 reference block.

As for your question about full cover block, if you are talking about a version with the plexi top that would cover the entire length of the card then other than the OriginalCSQ version no we don't have any.


----------



## LandonAaron

Well I got the Evo installed and it looks pretty sweet IMO. I used the GelID extreme thermal paste that it comes with, and it looks like I am getting better temps than I was getting with the Raystorm Block + IC Diamond. The house is pretty cold right now though, so it could just be due to lower ambient temps. I think I am going to try putting Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra on the block next. I have read that CLU works really well with Nickle blocks so I am going to give it a shot.

I just did one quick round of polishing with the Never Dull, and while its no mirror finish, it definitely shines when placed under some LED's.

Also I love the mounting mechanism on this block. Precise mount is truly an appropriate name, and it couldn't be any easier to screw down the block.

Here are some pics. I still have a bit of work to do with wire management, and I am going to add a EK mosfet block, but I am nearly done with this round of upgrades.






P.S. Does anyone know where I can get some double rotary 90 degree fittings like what you see in the picture. These are Alphacool fittings, and the one on top of the graphics card leaks unless its positioned in a particular way. It seems Alphacool doesn't make it in chrome anymore, or PPC just doesn't sell it anymore. The only similar fitting I can find in Chrome is EK's but it has EK's line grip pattern and I am looking for something with a diamond hatch pattern. I did see bitspower has one but its like $19, and I need two...


----------



## laxboimike

I love these new compression fittings !!! Also I decided to go back to a single loop... I think it looks a lot better....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Well I got the Evo installed and it looks pretty sweet IMO. I used the GelID extreme thermal paste that it comes with, and it looks like I am getting better temps than I was getting with the Raystorm Block + IC Diamond. The house is pretty cold right now though, so it could just be due to lower ambient temps. I think I am going to try putting Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra on the block next. I have read that CLU works really well with Nickle blocks so I am going to give it a shot.
> 
> I just did one quick round of polishing with the Never Dull, and while its no mirror finish, it definitely shines when placed under some LED's.
> 
> Also I love the mounting mechanism on this block. Precise mount is truly an appropriate name, and it couldn't be any easier to screw down the block.
> 
> Here are some pics. I still have a bit of work to do with wire management, and I am going to add a EK mosfet block, but I am nearly done with this round of upgrades.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. Does anyone know where I can get some double rotary 90 degree fittings like what you see in the picture. These are Alphacool fittings, and the one on top of the graphics card leaks unless its positioned in a particular way. It seems Alphacool doesn't make it in chrome anymore, or PPC just doesn't sell it anymore. The only similar fitting I can find in Chrome is EK's but it has EK's line grip pattern and I am looking for something with a diamond hatch pattern. I did see bitspower has one but its like $19, and I need two...


Considering what it would cost per piece to make that single fitting $19 is well worth it. I would suggest paying that due to the quality of BP. You can't go wrong. I love BP fittings. If they had hard line comps that would fit my tubing, I would've gone with those over Monsoon. Not that Monsoons aren't quality; mostly to keep everything in the family as it were.

EK is starting to get similar fittings but they do not yet have dual rotary 45s.









~Ceadder


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*
> 
> Just prepping my memory for the EK blocks. These are single sided so should I leave that back spacer on for the EK monarch blocks or best to take the factory spacer off and use EK's since I guess they come with it in the kit for single side dimms?


Taken from my thread.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Hey guys I'm wondering if anyone here has any experience with the ek thermosphere blocks. I picked up a pair of sapphire tri x 290x 8gb cards and come to find out they don't make full cover blocks. While this sucks really bad there's nothing I can do about it. So if anyone has a couple of these they would like to get rid of please let me know. I'd trade my 970 strix block for two of them.



Finnally got my quad sli working right. And so cool too at 20c idle on all four gpus and they have never gone past 45c even under stress testing.

strix block is oh so sexy mmmmm


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*
> 
> Just prepping my memory for the EK blocks. These are single sided so should I leave that back spacer on for the EK monarch blocks or best to take the factory spacer off and use EK's since I guess they come with it in the kit for single side dimms?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taken from my thread.
Click to expand...

When in doubt, stick with the one that comes with the custom Heatsinks. That's what it's for so why overthink it.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*
> 
> Taken from my thread.


On a single sided ram stick, you will need a 1.5mm thick thermal pad to fill the gap between the pcb and the ram module. I don't think any 1.5mm is included with the module. You will have to buy it separately.

EDIT: If you don't have any, check in the ram block box, I think we usually include a strip of thermal pads just in case. It might be a 1mm thick one that you could combine with the 0.5mm that we provide with the ram module.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=FIB=Goldberg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for your answer its a shame you dont make one as all my other EK blocks are plexi it would have finished off the build but hey no matter. So I went ahead and purchased the block from scan all good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my current setup yes I know its triple but ssssshhhhhhh there is another card on its way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see I am a EK fanboy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your help guys


then where are the EK vardars?







Nice build.


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> On a single sided ram stick, you will need a 1.5mm thick thermal pad to fill the gap between the pcb and the ram module. I don't think any 1.5mm is included with the module. You will have to buy it separately.
> 
> EDIT: If you don't have any, check in the ram block box, I think we usually include a strip of thermal pads just in case. It might be a 1mm thick one that you could combine with the 0.5mm that we provide with the ram module.


Ok thanks. I was just wondering since my stock memory already came with a spacer on the back. That's what the yellow looking strip is in my picture as I already removed one heatsink. I think I have some left over thermal pads from the various EK blocks I bought too









Just figured I'd ask since my package should be here tonight.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The 980 FTW doesn't have any compatible waterblock.
> 
> The 980 SC uses the standard 980 reference block.
> 
> As for your question about full cover block, if you are talking about a version with the plexi top that would cover the entire length of the card then other than the OriginalCSQ version no we don't have any.


Disappointed but thanks, I figured because the 970 FTW's had custom full blocks the 980's would as well.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Disappointed but thanks, I figured because the 970 FTW's had custom full blocks the 980's would as well.


Even with the 970 FTW you have to be careful in the model number because there's 2 version of it and one of them isn't compatible. Same thing apply to the 970 SSC


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Even with the 970 FTW you have to be careful in the model number because there's 2 version of it and one of them isn't compatible. Same thing apply to the 970 SSC


I noticed a few different models with ACX but haven't seen more then one 970 FTW at least on Newegg. I went through hell finding 970 blocks for EVGA cards now that I'm switching to 980's I can't get the blocks I want lol irony I guess.


----------



## absoluteczech

Hi Guys, I currently own a EK-DDC XRES 140 CSQ - Acetal



I want to reuse it in another build and make it shorter. They make a 100 version. Is it possible just to buy the acrylic top in a 100? Or do I have to buy a entire new unit now?

Basically want this


----------



## Ceadderman

If you're in the states try looking for a replacement tube at Performance-pcs.

I believe that EK also has them so if pics doesn't yield positive results check there.









~Ceadder


----------



## absoluteczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you're in the states try looking for a replacement tube at Performance-pcs.
> 
> I believe that EK also has them so if pics doesn't yield positive results check there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yes i'm in the states. Nice I found it. thanks!
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-dcp-2-2-x-res-tube-100mm.html


----------



## Ceadderman

You are welcome sir.

~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *absoluteczech*
> 
> Yes i'm in the states. Nice I found it. thanks!
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-dcp-2-2-x-res-tube-100mm.html


No this is not the good one!

You need this : EK-RES X3 - TUBE 110 (64mm)

PPCS link : http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-res-x3-tube-110-64mm.html


----------



## Asus11

Hi

whats the thickness on the thermal pads on the titan Z EK blocks? as I think I might use Fuji & dont want to get the wrong size


----------



## absoluteczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No this is not the good one!
> 
> You need this : EK-RES X3 - TUBE 110 (64mm)
> 
> PPCS link : http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-res-x3-tube-110-64mm.html


Sorry I have the xres for D5, not DDC. Do I still get that one?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> Hi
> 
> whats the thickness on the thermal pads on the titan Z EK blocks? as I think I might use Fuji & dont want to get the wrong size


0.5mm









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *absoluteczech*
> 
> Sorry I have the xres for D5, not DDC. Do I still get that one?


Yep it's the same


----------



## absoluteczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yep it's the same


Thanks, and out of curiosity, what is the difference between the 2?


----------



## DarkIdeals

Do any of you guys know if the TITAN X Hydro Copper block is being released seperately? Or is it only going to be sold bundled with the card itself? Most likely going for CSQ or Nickel/plexi though, but kind of curious if the HC block is an option if i get the reference one from NV (Just ordered one today







) Going to sell my two 980 Kingpins to pay for the two TITAN X's and the blocks etc.. so if anyone's interested let me know. I'm really liking the look of the CSQ block personally, using a dual parallel CSQ bridge


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Do any of you guys know if the TITAN X Hydro Copper block is being released seperately? Or is it only going to be sold bundled with the card itself? Most likely going for CSQ or Nickel/plexi though, but kind of curious if the HC block is an option if i get the reference one from NV (Just ordered one today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) Going to sell my two 980 Kingpins to pay for the two TITAN X's and the blocks etc.. so if anyone's interested let me know. I'm really liking the look of the CSQ block personally, using a dual parallel CSQ bridge


I don't think the thermal/bridge will work for Hydro Coppers.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *absoluteczech*
> 
> Thanks, and out of curiosity, what is the difference between the 2?


The D5 and DDC are 2 different types of pump.

D5


DDC


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Do any of you guys know if the TITAN X Hydro Copper block is being released seperately? Or is it only going to be sold bundled with the card itself? Most likely going for CSQ or Nickel/plexi though, but kind of curious if the HC block is an option if i get the reference one from NV (Just ordered one today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) Going to sell my two 980 Kingpins to pay for the two TITAN X's and the blocks etc.. so if anyone's interested let me know. I'm really liking the look of the CSQ block personally, using a dual parallel CSQ bridge


I don't know if the HC block will be sold separately. I would think so.

You might have a quicker answer on the EVGA forum maybe.


----------



## absoluteczech

Thanks and last question, I'm having a brain fart, it's been a while since I setup watercooling. Am I able to have the inlet/oulet on the same side on my GPU cooler from EK? As shown in the drawing?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *absoluteczech*
> 
> Thanks and last question, I'm having a brain fart, it's been a while since I setup watercooling. Am I able to have the inlet/oulet on the same side on my GPU cooler from EK? As shown in the drawing?


Yes. Just not recommended due to flow.

TCO


----------



## absoluteczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yes. Just not recommended due to flow.
> 
> TCO


Thank you


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *absoluteczech*
> 
> Thanks and last question, I'm having a brain fart, it's been a while since I setup watercooling. Am I able to have the inlet/oulet on the same side on my GPU cooler from EK? As shown in the drawing?


Of course no problems with that.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yes. Just not recommended due to flow.
> 
> TCO


Where did you hear about that?


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yes. Just not recommended due to flow.
> 
> TCO


How would that obstruct the flow? It's not any more restricting than coming out either end.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *absoluteczech*
> 
> Thanks, and out of curiosity, what is the difference between the 2?


The D5 & DDC X-res use the standard tubes that the X3 reservoirs use. They are 60mm OD, external threaded, but the dcp res you linked is an older model that uses 50mm OD tubes.


----------



## absoluteczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The d5 X-res uses the standard tubes that the X3 reservoirs use. They are 60mm OD, external threaded, but the dcp res you linked is an older model that uses 50mm OD tubes.


awesome thanks


----------



## H2lium

Greetings,

I have a problem with one EK-FC970 GTX waterblock.

When i mounted my system and did leak test it turns out the block was leaking and i noticed it was between the block itself and the additional POM part where you connect the fittings.

When disassembling these 2 parts i found out that one of these special O-rings was damaged.

Please see picture attached :


Any EK-Rep could come back to me and tell me how I can get a replacement O-Ring? there is nowhere i can find these....

I'm located in France by the way.

Thank you very much,

Alex


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H2lium*
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> I have a problem with one EK-FC970 GTX waterblock.
> 
> When i mounted my system and did leak test it turns out the block was leaking and i noticed it was between the block itself and the additional POM part where you connect the fittings.
> 
> When disassembling these 2 parts i found out that one of these special O-rings was damaged.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Please see picture attached :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any EK-Rep could come back to me and tell me how I can get a replacement O-Ring? there is nowhere i can find these....
> 
> I'm located in France by the way.
> 
> Thank you very much,
> 
> Alex


Contact EK support and tell them you need one.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H2lium*
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> I have a problem with one EK-FC970 GTX waterblock.
> 
> When i mounted my system and did leak test it turns out the block was leaking and i noticed it was between the block itself and the additional POM part where you connect the fittings.
> 
> When disassembling these 2 parts i found out that one of these special O-rings was damaged.
> 
> Please see picture attached :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any EK-Rep could come back to me and tell me how I can get a replacement O-Ring? there is nowhere i can find these....
> 
> I'm located in France by the way.
> 
> Thank you very much,
> 
> Alex


Hi Alex,

You need to open a ticket on our website (http://www.ekwb.com/support/) and explain your problem. Be sure to include this picture since it's pretty self explanatory









And they will send you some new o-rings.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Contact EK support and tell them you need one.


----------



## H2lium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi Alex,
> 
> You need to open a ticket on our website (http://www.ekwb.com/support/) and explain your problem. Be sure to include this picture since it's pretty self explanatory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And they will send you some new o-rings.


Hey, thanks for the very prompt reply. It's much appreciated


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi Alex,
> 
> You need to open a ticket on our website (http://www.ekwb.com/support/) and explain your problem. Be sure to include this picture since it's pretty self explanatory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And they will send you some new o-rings.


I just want to say where else do you get this kind of support from a water cooling manufacturer? Even on your favorite OC forum far away from their web site and shop they help you! I'm pretty sure the only reason I would personally ever use anything else besides EK is if they didn't make what I needed. Kudos to EKWB!!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H2lium*
> 
> Hey, thanks for the very prompt reply. It's much appreciated


Pas de problèmes









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I just want to say where else do you get this kind of support from a water cooling manufacturer? Even on your favorite OC forum far away from their web site and shop they help you! I'm pretty sure the only reason I would personally ever use anything else besides EK is if they didn't make what I needed. Kudos to EKWB!!


Thanks! We try our best.


----------



## LandonAaron

Got my M7G mosfet block in, and followed the Acrylic Polishing Guide here at OCN to polish away the frost to get a nice clear block, that will show off the Nickle base better. http://www.overclock.net/t/1477681/polishing-acrylic-guide-tips-tricks. I deviated from the instructions a little and jumped straight to 1000 grit sandpaper, as I wasn't super confident in myself for this project and was worried about grinding too much of the block away. I also didn't do the sides, as they were fairly clear to start with, and I am lazy. I did to the bottom and the water channels though as that whole area was pretty heavily frosted. I am very happy with the end result.I had a heck of time getting the O-ring back in place though. I think I sanded away too much of the back side making the indention the o-ring sets in too small to hold it in place well. After messing with it for several hours and trying increasing amounts of vaseline to try and make it stick, I eventually slathered on a very thick layer of vaseline, enough to completely fill the o-ring groove, and then when I set the oring it stuck. I then very carefully wiped away as much of the vaseline with a paper towel as I could without disturbing the oring.

Flushed it with hot water, and now you can hardly see the vaseline, though if you look closely you can tell its there between the plexi and the block.

Will a little vaseline in my block hurt anything in my loop. Its not water soluble so its kind of hard to wash out. I put the tap on hot full power and forced out most of the vaseline that was in the water channel, but there is still a bit there and the basically between the block and plexi there is a very thin even layer from the o-ring to the edge.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Got my M7G mosfet block in, and followed the Acrylic Polishing Guide here at OCN to polish away the frost to get a nice clear block, that will show off the Nickle base better. http://www.overclock.net/t/1477681/polishing-acrylic-guide-tips-tricks. I deviated from the instructions a little and jumped straight to 1000 grit sandpaper, as I wasn't super confident in myself for this project and was worried about grinding too much of the block away. I also didn't do the sides, as they were fairly clear to start with, and I am lazy. I did to the bottom and the water channels though as that whole area was pretty heavily frosted. I am very happy with the end result.I had a heck of time getting the O-ring back in place though. I think I sanded away too much of the back side making the indention the o-ring sets in too small to hold it in place well. After messing with it for several hours and trying increasing amounts of vaseline to try and make it stick, I eventually slathered on a very thick layer of vaseline, enough to completely fill the o-ring groove, and then when I set the oring it stuck. I then very carefully wiped away as much of the vaseline with a paper towel as I could without disturbing the oring.
> 
> Flushed it with hot water, and now you can hardly see the vaseline, though if you look closely you can tell its there between the plexi and the block.
> 
> Will a little vaseline in my block hurt anything in my loop. Its not water soluble so its kind of hard to wash out. I put the tap on hot full power and forced out most of the vaseline that was in the water channel, but there is still a bit there and the basically between the block and plexi there is a very thin even layer from the o-ring to the edge.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sweet!


----------



## Frontside

Had some fun with a camera tonight. Love EK goodies


----------



## LandonAaron

Whats the difference between the EK XTX and XTC radiators. I am looking for a 420mm radiator optimized for high RPM fans. Already have an 240mm Alphacool XT45, that takes care of me at low RPM's, and want something for when I am really reaching for it. Looking for something to replace my XSPC EX 420mm radiator with.


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontside*
> 
> Had some fun with a camera tonight. Love EK goodies
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2415765/width/500/height/1000


Nice. I just saw EK post this photo on their Facebook.


----------



## Frontside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*
> 
> Nice. I just saw EK post this photo on their Facebook.


Thanks







.. I was quite surprised when i saw it there


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Of course no problems with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you hear about that?


I thought this would be relative to the Series Vs Parallel discussion? But I will admit that I could be easily wrong.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*
> 
> How would that obstruct the flow? It's not any more restricting than coming out either end.


The Recommended Inlet and outlet are as such right? For Optimum flow? Like I said above I could easily be wrong

The Difference is minimal either way you route the tubing.



Anyway here are some fresh shots of the SMA8





The Cautious One


----------



## snef

some EK-Vardar F3 painted


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some EK-Vardar F3 painted
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Get this thing together!!!! I want to see it lol


----------



## LandonAaron

Does anyone know what EK's gaskets/ o-rings are made of. I ran into some trouble on my mosfet block after polishing it, couldn't get the o-ring to sit anymore. I eventually lathered it up in vaseline and was able to get it to stay in place, but I just got this info from another user on the OCN watercooling thread:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Petrolatum (aka Petroleum jelly) products like Vaseline should not be considered safe to use on o-rings. It can cause damage to them more or less so depending on what they are made of. Nitrile tends to be ok, and neoprene is so-so, but petroleum jelly will cripple EPDM or isoprene o-rings in short order, which could cause serious damage to someone's system. Many o-rings used in watercooling, for example Bitspower o-rings tend to be EPDM.
> 
> http://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart-5
> 
> Silicone grease, aka o-ring grease, is well suited specifically for use on all o-rings commonly used in watercooling. It's readily available, doesn't cost much, a little will last a long time.


Seems I will be okay if the o-ring is nitrile, but in trouble if EPDM, whatever that is.

Edit: I just looked at EK's website and on the Spare parts page they have orings for the Supreme HF, VGA Supreme HF, and Supremacy. Both of the Supreme gaskets are Nitrile, but the Supremacy is EPDM. No specific info is available on the oring using the M7G block. Guess I better take it out and try again with some silicone grease. Better safe than sorry.


----------



## Ceadderman

If Supremacy is EPDM then likely all blocks from Supremacy til now are likewise EPDM.









~Ceadder


----------



## MrPT

hi there, i am testing supremacy evo for a few days and i am having some issues, 1st temperatures: that are sucks. I have delidded cpu and have naked ivy prec mount and compared to bp summit i have around 10+ degrees worse temps (summit ~63*C, evo~75*C, same cpu, same oc, loop etc) I expected better perfomance not worse

2nd thing, after week still getting air bubbles in outgoing hose. I have to run pump for 100% power for a while, and when I slow it down after few hours get bubbles again

Maybe some of you have an idea of what are the problems and how to solve them


----------



## Brian18741

Hey guys, just connected up a new loop. Using a pwm d5 in the xres 140. The glow rate seems really slow tho. It's the only thing connected apart for a fan you can hear in the background and has been running for at least 15 minutes in the clip. Is the pwm pump just turned down really low? Check out the clip if you have a min and let me know. Thanks!






Correct link:


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Hey guys, just connected up a new loop. Using a pwm d5 in the xres 140. The glow rate seems really slow tho. It's the only thing connected apart for a fan you can hear in the background and has been running for at least 15 minutes in the clip. Is the pwm pump just turned down really low? Check out the clip if you have a min and let me know. Thanks!


Says "video is private".


----------



## Brian18741

Humm, sorry trying to do all this off my phone, gimme a sec


----------



## Brian18741

Ok had to upload it again.






Watching a few clips on YouTube of others filling res and turning them on for the first time. Mine is definitely running very slow. I wonder is it just because it's pwm and not connected to the mobo with everything else connected up also.


----------



## FrancisJF

1x EK Supremacy EVO Copper
1x EK Thermal Dual Serial
2x EK-FC R9 290X Copper
2x EK-FC 290X Backplate
2x EK-XTOP DDC 3.2 PWM - Plexi
2x EK-MultiOption RES X3 150
1x EK Coolstream 360 PE
9x EK-Vardar F4

All fittings and tubing by Bitspower and I don't know if i'm missing any.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Ok had to upload it again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watching a few clips on YouTube of others filling res and turning them on for the first time. Mine is definitely running very slow. I wonder is it just because it's pwm and not connected to the mobo with everything else connected up also.


Typically when a PWM device isn't connected it runs a full speed. I would go ahead and check that, but I think the problem is elsewhere.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Does anyone know what EK's gaskets/ o-rings are made of. I ran into some trouble on my mosfet block after polishing it, couldn't get the o-ring to sit anymore. I eventually lathered it up in vaseline and was able to get it to stay in place, but I just got this info from another user on the OCN watercooling thread:
> Seems I will be okay if the o-ring is nitrile, but in trouble if EPDM, whatever that is.
> 
> Edit: I just looked at EK's website and on the Spare parts page they have orings for the Supreme HF, VGA Supreme HF, and Supremacy. Both of the Supreme gaskets are Nitrile, but the Supremacy is EPDM. No specific info is available on the oring using the M7G block. Guess I better take it out and try again with some silicone grease. Better safe than sorry.


Need to replace the o-ring if you have put vasoline on it as the damage has been done. Also you need to clean all of the vasoline out of and off the block as this will stop heat transfer from the block to the water!! Any oil based or petroleum product is bad for your blocks, rads everything as it puts a layer inbetween the block and water!! Always use silicone grease if you use anthing!!


----------



## Brian18741

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Typically when a PWM device isn't connected it runs a full speed. I would go ahead and check that, but I think the problem is elsewhere.


I thought it might but the pump is so quiet you can't even hear it so defo not running at full speed. Ek haven't got back to me yet. Where else could the problem be do you think?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> I thought it might but the pump is so quiet you can't even hear it so defo not running at full speed. Ek haven't got back to me yet. Where else could the problem be do you think?


A D5 PWM runs at about 40% pressure when the PWM cable is disconnected. If the PWM cable is connected but the system is off it can sometimes run at min speed.

Looks pretty normal for a pump running low with maybe some air still in the system.

To make it run at full speed with the system off you can take a bit of wire and connect the 5V pin on the molex plug to the PWM pin. That effectively simulates a 100% PWM signal.


----------



## Alex132

-


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> I thought it might but the pump is so quiet you can't even hear it so defo not running at full speed. Ek haven't got back to me yet. Where else could the problem be do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> A D5 PWM runs at about 40% pressure when the PWM cable is disconnected. If the PWM cable is connected but the system is off it can run at min speed.
> 
> Looks pretty normal for a pump running low with maybe some air still in the system.
> 
> To make it run at full speed you can take a bit of wire and connect the 5V pin on the molex plug to the PWM pin.
Click to expand...

60% when cable disconnected.
100% initial when cable connected (might be just for me as it's plugged into mobo). If it was plugged into a hardware PWM controller or motherboard that sets the PWM signal to something other than 100% from boot - it will be different.


----------



## MrPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> hi there, i am testing supremacy evo for a few days and i am having some issues, 1st temperatures: that are sucks. I have delidded cpu and have naked ivy prec mount and compared to bp summit i have around 10+ degrees worse temps (summit ~63*C, evo~75*C, same cpu, same oc, loop etc) I expected better perfomance not worse
> 
> 2nd thing, after week still getting air bubbles in outgoing hose. I have to run pump for 100% power for a while, and when I slow it down after few hours get bubbles again
> 
> Maybe some of you have an idea of what are the problems and how to solve them


1st problem solved, blok base has a curve in the middle

wytapane z hello moto


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Whats the difference between the EK XTX and XTC radiators. I am looking for a 420mm radiator optimized for high RPM fans. Already have an 240mm Alphacool XT45, that takes care of me at low RPM's, and want something for when I am really reaching for it. Looking for something to replace my XSPC EX 420mm radiator with.


The XTX is a 120mm series and the XTC is the 140mm series.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Does anyone know what EK's gaskets/ o-rings are made of. I ran into some trouble on my mosfet block after polishing it, couldn't get the o-ring to sit anymore. I eventually lathered it up in vaseline and was able to get it to stay in place, but I just got this info from another user on the OCN watercooling thread:
> Seems I will be okay if the o-ring is nitrile, but in trouble if EPDM, whatever that is.


I'm not 100% sure but I think it's Nitrile.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> hi there, i am testing supremacy evo for a few days and i am having some issues, 1st temperatures: that are sucks. I have delidded cpu and have naked ivy prec mount and compared to bp summit i have around 10+ degrees worse temps (summit ~63*C, evo~75*C, same cpu, same oc, loop etc) I expected better perfomance not worse
> 
> 2nd thing, after week still getting air bubbles in outgoing hose. I have to run pump for 100% power for a while, and when I slow it down after few hours get bubbles again
> 
> Maybe some of you have an idea of what are the problems and how to solve them


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> 1st problem solved, blok base has a curve in the middle
> 
> wytapane z hello moto


About the bubbles, can you tell me what's the layout of your loop? (blocks, rads, etc...)


----------



## cstkl1

Bleed time n sorry really no time to fix that wiring. Will do it when i get my long rounded sleeved sata cables


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cstkl1*
> 
> 
> Bleed time n sorry really no time to fix that wiring. Will do it when i get my long rounded sleeved sata cables


Need to get yourself one of these:



Dirt cheap, and it makes leak testing alot easier, not having to unplug everything. It has a power switch too, which is good for filling.


----------



## BradleyW

Are socket 2011 CPU blocks compatible with X99 using the X79 install bracket? (EK Supremacy, purchased before X99 was released).


----------



## MrPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> About the bubbles, can you tell me what's the layout of your loop? (blocks, rads, etc...)


Pump (swiftech mcp 355 18w)>rad 240 EK XT> EK GPU block>ek monarch x4> cpu block> ek mofset block>ek xt 360 rad> aquaero block> rez.

Anyway, I am a little disappointed with the quality of supremacy evo, block base had more than 1.5 mm curve in middle and it wasn't possible to get correct contact with naked cpu core. Luckly my friend has a special device which improves base


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Are socket 2011 CPU blocks compatible with X99 using the X79 install bracket? (EK Supremacy, purchased before X99 was released).


Yep! 2011-3 (X99) has the same mounting points as 2011 (X79).


----------



## inedenimadam

Is there a preferred rotation for an EVO block on X99 ?

Is there a better rotation than this:


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> Pump (swiftech mcp 355 18w)>rad 240 EK XT> EK GPU block>ek monarch x4> cpu block> ek mofset block>ek xt 360 rad> aquaero block> rez.
> 
> Anyway, I am a little disappointed with the quality of supremacy evo, block base had more than 1.5 mm curve in middle and it wasn't possible to get correct contact with naked cpu core. Luckly my friend has a special device which improves base


Why didn't you warranty the block? I have the evo and mine works superbly.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Is there a preferred rotation for an EVO block on X99 ?
> 
> Is there a better rotation than this:


That's the way it worked best for me during testing.


----------



## LandonAaron

I'm really interested in the EK XTC 420mm radiator, after reading ExtremeRigs' review for the XTX 360, but comparing the specifications of the XTC to the XTX it seems there are some important differences. I wonder if the XTC will provide the same level of performance as the XTX model.

XTX 360:
Thickness: 64mm
FPI: 11
Liquid Capacity: 510ml
Tubing: 90% copper tube (H90)

XTC 420:
Thickness: 55mm
FPI: 10
Liquid Capacity: 490ml
Tubing: Unspecified?

Frustrating, ExtremeRigs' two highest performing rads the EK XTX, and Coolgate G2 don't come in 420mm versions. Does anyone know of any reviews of the XTC model rads? Haven't been able to find any.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Is there a preferred rotation for an EVO block on X99 ?
> 
> Is there a better rotation than this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's the way it worked best for me during testing.
Click to expand...

Thanks, was not sure which platforms liked regular/goofy better.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> 60% when cable disconnected.
> 100% initial when cable connected (might be just for me as it's plugged into mobo). If it was plugged into a hardware PWM controller or motherboard that sets the PWM signal to something other than 100% from boot - it will be different.


60% Speed is about 40% of max pressure. Generally talking about how the pump runs while the system is off and the pump is being used for filling and bleeding.


----------



## Brian18741

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> 60% when cable disconnected.
> 100% initial when cable connected (might be just for me as it's plugged into mobo). If it was plugged into a hardware PWM controller or motherboard that sets the PWM signal to something other than 100% from boot - it will be different.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> A D5 PWM runs at about 40% pressure when the PWM cable is disconnected. If the PWM cable is connected but the system is off it can sometimes run at min speed.
> 
> Looks pretty normal for a pump running low with maybe some air still in the system.
> 
> To make it run at full speed with the system off you can take a bit of wire and connect the 5V pin on the molex plug to the PWM pin. That effectively simulates a 100% PWM signal.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Typically when a PWM device isn't connected it runs a full speed. I would go ahead and check that, but I think the problem is elsewhere.


Thanks for the replies guys, the issue is resolved. The pump was running at a very low speed while just connected to the PSU. I rebuilt the whole system and can control it in BIOS so all is well.

Ek support advised they thought I had installed it upside down! Lol


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Ek support advised the thought I had installed it upside down! Lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*





Can you spot the Crack? I have yet to put a fitting in there. I wonder If it was cracked before I polished it.

No Worries. ORdered a replacement already. 10$









TCO


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you spot the Crack? I have yet to put a fitting in there. I wonder If it was cracked before I polished it.
> 
> No Worries. ORdered a replacement already. 10$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Yep I see it!!









This is wierd since cracking usually happen around screw holes due to overtighten screws but this one is right at the port hole! It must be a defect. This sucks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yep I see it!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is wierd since cracking usually happen around screw holes due to overtighten screws but this one is right at the port hole! It must be a defect. This sucks


I am rubbing my elbows in preperation of MOAR POLISHING!!!









Im Ready to Rock Akira.

TCO


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I
> Tubing: Unspecified?
> 
> Frustrating, ExtremeRigs' two highest performing rads the EK XTX, and Coolgate G2 don't come in 420mm versions. Does anyone know of any reviews of the XTC model rads? Haven't been able to find any.


It's H90 Brass.


----------



## MegaTheJohny

hey guys... I wanted to ask if anyone used EK HDC 16 mm fitting for acrylic tubing ?
If yes, how did you chemfer the edges? I had to chamfer 3-4 mm, so tubing can fit properly. If I chamfer only 0.5mm as EK manual suggested, it very hard/impossible to push the tube over the second O ring?
Since I need to do this few times, due to getting right length of the tube, it very frustrating. Is 3-4mm chamfer too much ? Am I doing something wrong ?


----------



## Jakusonfire

You don't want too much chamfer at too low an angle or you are just narrowing the tube where the first oring sits. 3 or 4mm is way too much. The second oring should be difficult to push the tube past, that means it has a nice tight seal. Some silicon grease will make it easier to fit the tubes.


----------



## MegaTheJohny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You don't want too much chamfer at too low an angle or you are just narrowing the tube where the first oring sits. 3 or 4mm is way too much. The second oring should be difficult to push the tube past, that means it has a nice tight seal. Some silicon grease will make it easier to fit the tubes.


Well, I just think that EK 16mm tube is a bit to wide for EK HDC 16mm fittings. If I use more force to push the tube in, I can see that tube is getting small scratches (as you can see from attached picture). So only solution would be to use fine sandpaper, maybe 3 mm lenght, just a little bit? But I am afraid to do that?
Or some silicon grease, but I don't know where to get that,. Can you give me some link so I can check ? thanks

I hope there is someone who used this fitting already, so I can get free tips


----------



## Jakusonfire

There seems to be just more variation in size with 16mm tubing. I have some from BP and EK and they are both a bit variable. More so than their 12mm anyway.


----------



## DeviousAddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> hey guys... I wanted to ask if anyone used EK HDC 16 mm fitting for acrylic tubing ?
> If yes, how did you chemfer the edges? I had to chamfer 3-4 mm, so tubing can fit properly. If I chamfer only 0.5mm as EK manual suggested, it very hard/impossible to push the tube over the second O ring?
> Since I need to do this few times, due to getting right length of the tube, it very frustrating. Is 3-4mm chamfer too much ? Am I doing something wrong ?


Would heating the tubing up not make it a bit easier to push into the fitting?
I have no experiance with hard tubing but to me it makes sense to warm it up so that it softens a little maybe


----------



## MegaTheJohny

nop, you heat up only for bends... not for installing the fittings...


----------



## DeviousAddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> nop, you heat up only for bends... not for installing the fittings...


Ah ok, no worries then. good to know for i eventually start using hard tubing


----------



## MegaTheJohny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There seems to be just more variation in size with 16mm tubing. I have some from BP and EK and they are both a bit variable. More so than their 12mm anyway.


Dude I just found your post within another topic about this matter, and u suggested silicon grease. Again very good advice from u















I bought this one (hope this one is ok ? ):


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> Well, I just think that EK 16mm tube is a bit to wide for EK HDC 16mm fittings. If I use more force to push the tube in, I can see that tube is getting small scratches (as you can see from attached picture). So only solution would be to use fine sandpaper, maybe 3 mm lenght, just a little bit? But I am afraid to do that?
> Or some silicon grease, but I don't know where to get that,. Can you give me some link so I can check ? thanks
> 
> I hope there is someone who used this fitting already, so I can get free tips
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2418827/width/500/height/1000


I used BP multilink enhanced fittings and BP 16mm tube in my build and I basically have to do the same thing. That was a good tips hove to use silicone grease. (+rep)


----------



## Rainmaker91

the easiest place to find silicone grease or rather silicone lubricant is through your local hardware store. I generally use this stuff: http://www.clasohlson.com/no/Silikonspray,/34-7458 when I need something lubricated as it's easier to use for those tight spots on electronics, cars and whatnot, but any silicone grease will work (just click the picture, to check what it is, I can't be bothered to find the manufacturers website now).


----------



## Detoxification

EK Supremacy EVO
Primochill Rigid Revolver Fittings
Bitspower Quick Disconnect
13mm PETG Tubing
Swiftech 240mm Rad
Mayhems Pastel UV Lime Yellow

Day 1






Day 3






Day 4





/// Follow me on your favorite Social Media \\\
Facebook = https://www.facebook.com/HardwareDomain
Twitter = https://twitter.com/Hardware_Domain
Instagram = https://instagram.com/hardware_domain/


----------



## Georgey123

About to order some new EK Furious Vardar fans but I have a question about them. Because they are 3000RPM fans, are they ok to run at about 800-1000RPM? Some high speed fan motors tend to make a humming sound when run lower than rated RPM's. Can anyone confirm or deny.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> About to order some new EK Furious Vardar fans but I have a question about them. Because they are 3000RPM fans, are they ok to run at about 800-1000RPM? Some high speed fan motors tend to make a humming sound when run lower than rated RPM's. Can anyone confirm or deny.


Out of interest why? Why not just order some 2000RPM ones?

And IIRC I remember reading something about the 3k RPM Vardars not liking low RPMs (motor noise).


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Out of interest why? Why not just order some 2000RPM ones?
> 
> And IIRC I remember reading something about the 3k RPM Vardars not liking low RPMs (motor noise).


I would order some F2/F3 but its really out of the colour scheme of my build (I'm a bit ocd like that).


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Out of interest why? Why not just order some 2000RPM ones?
> 
> And IIRC I remember reading something about the 3k RPM Vardars not liking low RPMs (motor noise).
> 
> 
> 
> I would order some F2/F3 but its really out of the colour scheme of my build (I'm a bit ocd like that).
Click to expand...

Black? Luckily for me I love the grey look lol.

Yeah then wait to get a definite answer about the 3ks.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> *Would heating the tubing up not make it a bit easier to push into the fitting?*
> I have no experiance with hard tubing but to me it makes sense to warm it up so that it softens a little maybe


Heat expands. I would think that possibly Putting the end of the Tube in a bucket of ice would help instead (If that would actually do anything anyway)

The Cautious One


----------



## DanWoodsPcMods

My X99 build packed pull of EK gear.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Black? Luckily for me I love the grey look lol.
> 
> Yeah then wait to get a definite answer about the 3ks.


Ya black







. Don't mind the grey either my may clash with Black and Orange. Cheers for the reply though











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Spoiled content
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanWoodsPcMods*
> 
> My X99 build packed pull of EK gear.






Fantastic looking build mate


----------



## DeviousAddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Heat expands. I would think that possibly Putting the end of the Tube in a bucket of ice would help instead (If that would actually do anything anyway)
> 
> The Cautious One


I was thinking more along the lines of making thr tube softer so that it would be squishy and easier to manipulate over the fitting.


----------



## snef

some pics of Fan et Rad assembled


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some pics of Fan et Rad assembled
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are you going to put hieroglyphics on the side of the rad?


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Are you going to put hieroglyphics on the side of the rad?


it was in my plan....., I will see when the rad is installed in the case


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Wow.


----------



## VSG

Taking apart the EK RVE monoblock:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> About to order some new EK Furious Vardar fans but I have a question about them. Because they are 3000RPM fans, are they ok to run at about 800-1000RPM? Some high speed fan motors tend to make a humming sound when run lower than rated RPM's. Can anyone confirm or deny.


Get the 1800s and paint the hubs. You would be asking too much of 3000s undervolting them over half their rated speed and they would likely just turn off rather than run @ 800rpm.

~Ceadder


----------



## inedenimadam

The 1850 vardars move some air, and are pretty quiet at 60%. What situation are you trying to throw both 3k and 800 rpms at?

Edit:

Is the VGA Supremacy EOL? It is out of stock in all styles at PPCS and at EKweb. Really want to pick a pair up next week.


----------



## Ceadderman

He wants to run tween 800-1000rpm. Using 3000rpm Vardars because they are all black.

~Ceadder


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Get the 1800s and paint the hubs. You would be asking too much of 3000s undervolting them over half their rated speed and they would likely just turn off rather than run @ 800rpm.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeh was thinking that as well, does painting them affect performance/unbalance the fan? I just saw snefs gold vardars and they look stunning.

Cheers Ceadder








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> The 1850 vardars move some air, and are pretty quiet at 60%. What situation are you trying to throw both 3k and 800 rpms at?


I run the fans I have now at round 800. I would choose the f2/f3 vardars but I wanted the 3000RPM vardars just due to the colour scheme.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Get the 1800s and paint the hubs. You would be asking too much of 3000s undervolting them over half their rated speed and they would likely just turn off rather than run @ 800rpm.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeh was thinking that as well, does painting them affect performance/unbalance the fan? I just saw snefs gold vardars and they look stunning.
> 
> Cheers Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> The 1850 vardars move some air, and are pretty quiet at 60%. What situation are you trying to throw both 3k and 800 rpms at?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I run the fans I have now at round 800. I would choose the f2/f3 vardars but I wanted the 3000RPM vardars just due to the colour scheme.
Click to expand...

Nope. So long as you paint them evenly with light coats, they should be just fine. Tap the trigger and move the can and in no time the blades will be painted.









~Ceadder


----------



## KoNLaR

Brand new setup and some better pictures then I posted earlier, specs can be found here







https://pcpartpicker.com/b/wsZ8TW


----------



## Kritikill

Not sure if you are aware of it or not. The blue EK symbol on the pump is Chrome, there is a blue protective sticker on it.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Are you going to put hieroglyphics on the side of the rad?


finally

I did


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Are you going to put hieroglyphics on the side of the rad?
> 
> 
> 
> finally
> 
> I did
Click to expand...

Ooooh...









What's it say?


----------



## KoNLaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Not sure if you are aware of it or not. The blue EK symbol on the pump is Chrome, there is a blue protective sticker on it.


Haha I wasn't aware, but removed it now thanks!


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Ooooh...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's it say?


Thanks

i really don't know hahahahah


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Ooooh...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's it say?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> i really don't know hahahahah


snef already printed the future but someone has to crack it?


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Ooooh...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's it say?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> i really don't know hahahahah
Click to expand...

Hey, where's you get those schmexy golden radiator screws?


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Hey, where's you get those schmexy golden radiator screws?


Gold plated. Like all his other fittings. Should see all his blocks....


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Hey, where's you get those schmexy golden radiator screws?
> 
> 
> 
> Gold plated. Like all his other fittings. Should see all his blocks....
Click to expand...

Gold plated? Yeah, think I'll pass on that.

I've already spent over $3000 on parts for Olympus mk II (seriously need a new name)... My wallet would strangle me in my sleep if I spent money on gold plating.

I'll just have to see if I can find brass hardware instead.


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Gold plated? Yeah, think I'll pass on that.
> 
> I've already spent over $3000 on parts for Olympus mk II (seriously need a new name)... My wallet would strangle me in my sleep if I spent money on gold plating.
> 
> I'll just have to see if I can find brass hardware instead.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Gold plated? Yeah, think I'll pass on that.
> 
> I've already spent over $3000 on parts for Olympus mk II (seriously need a new name)... My wallet would strangle me in my sleep if I spent money on gold plating.
> 
> I'll just have to see if I can find brass hardware instead.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*


Sure is beautiful though!


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Gold plated? Yeah, think I'll pass on that.
> 
> I've already spent over $3000 on parts for Olympus mk II (seriously need a new name)... My wallet would strangle me in my sleep if I spent money on gold plating.
> 
> I'll just have to see if I can find brass hardware instead.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Gold plated? Yeah, think I'll pass on that.
> 
> I've already spent over $3000 on parts for Olympus mk II (seriously need a new name)... My wallet would strangle me in my sleep if I spent money on gold plating.
> 
> I'll just have to see if I can find brass hardware instead.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sure is beautiful though!
Click to expand...

Yeah, but it wouldn't fit my build...


----------



## snef

someone found these for me in hardware stire in Toronto


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Is there a link for dismantling the Vardar fans for painting? I just popped a Swiftech fan apart and the pinion doesnt want to go back into place correctly. I just dont want that to happen with the new Vardars.

Also, filled out the form with my blocks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Ooooh...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's it say?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> i really don't know hahahahah


It's not real hieroglyphs. Well some are but some aren't so in the end it doesn't mean anything.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Ooooh...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's it say?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> i really don't know hahahahah
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It's not real hieroglyphs. Well some are but some aren't so in the end it doesn't mean anything.
Click to expand...

Oh... so it's the Ancient Egyptian version of Ebonics. Got it.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Oh... so it's the Ancient Egyptian version of Ebonics. Got it.


For the real part yes


----------



## snef

I just take this on Google, don't know what they mean, its only for esthetic


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Guys!!!! SPOILERS please! Last two post on the previous page (10 posts per page) are the offenders.

Looking good snef







giving me ideas...

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## LandonAaron

Installed EK Mosfet block on Asus Maximus VII board. VRM temps are higher than with stock heatsink


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Installed EK Mosfet block on Asus Maximus VII board. VRM temps are higher than with stock heatsink


Pro-tip: Try running liquid through it


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Pro-tip: Try running liquid through it


LOL


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Pro-tip: Try running liquid through it


Oh okay. I was using sand and cigarette ashes, thanks for clearing that up.


----------



## VSG

Mind saying what your temps were with the stock cooler and the block? Also your CPU settings?


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mind saying what your temps were with the stock cooler and the block? Also your CPU settings?


With the stock heatsink VRM temps would be between 38-43 depending on ambient temps, load, and fan settings. Now the VRM temps are between 41-48.

The CPU is a 4790k @ 4800mhz, 1.32v.



I'm not too upset because I wasn't really worried about VRM temps to begin with. This was more of an aesthetics upgrade, but its still disappointing to see higher temps on a part after adding water.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> With the stock heatsink VRM temps would be between 38-43 depending on ambient temps, load, and fan settings. Now the VRM temps are between 41-48.
> 
> The CPU is a 4790k @ 4800mhz, 1.32v.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not too upset because I wasn't really worried about VRM temps to begin with. This was more of an aesthetics upgrade, but its still disappointing to see higher temps on a part after adding water.


My stock temps were higher, albeit slightly, and possibly because of more aggressive loads on the CPU. But my VRM temps even with the monoblock were definitely lower. Did the ambient temps change? I would also remove the block and check for good contact with the thermal pads if you haven't already done so.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Oh okay. I was using sand and cigarette ashes, thanks for clearing that up.


----------



## derickwm

http://www.overclock.net/t/1550926/official-ek-vulture-mod-off-discussion-thread


----------



## KoNLaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> With the stock heatsink VRM temps would be between 38-43 depending on ambient temps, load, and fan settings. Now the VRM temps are between 41-48.
> 
> The CPU is a 4790k @ 4800mhz, 1.32v.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not too upset because I wasn't really worried about VRM temps to begin with. This was more of an aesthetics upgrade, but its still disappointing to see higher temps on a part after adding water.


No offense but I personally think the Standard VRM cooler looked better than this waterblock on it as you now also see the red color on the motherboard were the cooler used to be.

Just my opnion, still a great build tho


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> With the stock heatsink VRM temps would be between 38-43 depending on ambient temps, load, and fan settings. Now the VRM temps are between 41-48.
> 
> The CPU is a 4790k @ 4800mhz, 1.32v.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not too upset because I wasn't really worried about VRM temps to begin with. This was more of an aesthetics upgrade, but its still disappointing to see higher temps on a part after adding water.


Can you tell me your loop layout?


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoNLaR*
> 
> No offense but I personally think the Standard VRM cooler looked better than this waterblock on it as you now also see the red color on the motherboard were the cooler used to be.
> 
> Just my opnion, still a great build tho


I considered this, but I didn't like how my loop was so obvious before, like a plain circle running through case. I like how mosfet blocks have there in and out ports far away from each other and break up the tubing run. Also this allow me to use more fittings which means more chrome.







I have always liked the look of very short tubing runs connected by right angle fittings too. (Unfortunately, I somehow ordered the wrong size compression fittings for that run, and if you look closely the hose is a little stretched out as it is 5/8 7/16 hose stretched over a 1/2 3/4 compression fitting. The compression ring isn't even really doing anything. Also I polished the frosted plexi block to make it clear with the hopes of bringing out the nickle underneath better, but really I think I just made the mosfet block invisible. It is very camoed in there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Can you tell me your loop layout?


XSPC X20 Pump/Res > MCP50x Pump > EK Supremacy EVO CPU Block > EK Mosfet Block > XSPC EX 420mm Rad > EK FC R9 290 Blocks in Parallel > Alphacool 240mm Rad > X20 Pump.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I considered this, but I didn't like how my loop was so obvious before, like a plain circle running through case. I like how mosfet blocks have there in and out ports far away from each other and break up the tubing run. Also this allow me to use more fittings which means more chrome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have always liked the look of very short tubing runs connected by right angle fittings too. (Unfortunately, I somehow ordered the wrong size compression fittings for that run, and if you look closely the hose is a little stretched out as it is 5/8 7/16 hose stretched over a 1/2 3/4 compression fitting. The compression ring isn't even really doing anything. Also I polished the frosted plexi block to make it clear with the hopes of bringing out the nickle underneath better, but really I think I just made the mosfet block invisible. It is very camoed in there.
> XSPC X20 Pump/Res > MCP50x Pump > EK Supremacy EVO CPU Block > EK Mosfet Block > XSPC EX 420mm Rad > EK FC R9 290 Blocks in Parallel > Alphacool 240mm Rad > X20 Pump.


Is the weaker pump feeding the mcp50x?


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Is the weaker pump feeding the mcp50x?


Yes


----------



## inedenimadam

I am going to ask again....

Is the VGA supremacy End Of Life?

It is out of stock at PPCS and EKweb.

I want to buy two.

I am not interested in the thermosphere

Thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> XSPC X20 Pump/Res > MCP50x Pump > EK Supremacy EVO CPU Block > EK Mosfet Block > XSPC EX 420mm Rad > EK FC R9 290 Blocks in Parallel > Alphacool 240mm Rad > X20 Pump.


It's wierd that you end up with higher temps than









Just out of curiosity, I will check my VRM temps on my Gene VI tonight.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I am going to ask again....
> 
> Is the VGA supremacy End Of Life?
> 
> It is out of stock at PPCS and EKweb.
> 
> I want to buy two.
> 
> I am not interested in the thermosphere
> 
> Thanks


I don't think they are EOL but I will ask and let you know.


----------



## derickwm




----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Very nice!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I am going to ask again....
> 
> Is the VGA supremacy End Of Life?
> 
> It is out of stock at PPCS and EKweb.
> 
> I want to buy two.
> 
> I am not interested in the thermosphere
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think they are EOL but I will ask and let you know.
Click to expand...

Ok I've got an answer!

They aren't EOL but they will in a somewhat near future.

Even if they are "out of stock" on our website you can order them and they will be made upon request.

One thing to consider is that it might take a little more time since it's not a new product.


----------



## DNMock

I know I already mentioned this in the EK thread on suggestions for new products, but it seems like such a logical thing I was curious if an EK Vardar 180mm fan was in the works? Going to be replacing my 180mm phobya silent fans fairly soon (next couple months) and would love a good 180mm pwm Vardar fan to replace them instead the Silverstone fans (which are nice, just don't like being forced to control them with their built in controllers rather than connecting them to my pwm fan controller).


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> I know I already mentioned this in the EK thread on suggestions for new products, but it seems like such a logical thing I was curious if an EK Vardar 180mm fan was in the works? Going to be replacing my 180mm phobya silent fans fairly soon (next couple months) and would love a good 180mm pwm Vardar fan to replace them instead the Silverstone fans (which are nice, just don't like being forced to control them with their built in controllers rather than connecting them to my pwm fan controller).


+1

180mm is a neglected size. Lots of 200mm options, but little to choose from in the 180mm range.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I am going to ask again....
> 
> Is the VGA supremacy End Of Life?
> 
> It is out of stock at PPCS and EKweb.
> 
> I want to buy two.
> 
> I am not interested in the thermosphere
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think they are EOL but I will ask and let you know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok I've got an answer!
> 
> They aren't EOL but they will in a somewhat near future.
> 
> Even if they are "out of stock" on our website you can order them and they will be made upon request.
> 
> One thing to consider is that it might take a little more time since it's not a new product.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I will probably order soon, would rather find them local-ish (USA) online in stock though....PPCS is an hour drive from my house.

Why would they go EOL? The thermosphere is so much more restrictive in its uses. You have *THE BEST* VGA uni block on the market! Why kill it?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Found a pic that was hidden in the camera AND

Got my New SLI Ek Bridge

My Other One cracked.

TCO


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Thanks, I will probably order soon, would rather find them local-ish (USA) online in stock though....PPCS is an hour drive from my house.
> 
> Why would they go EOL? The thermosphere is so much more restrictive in its uses. You have *THE BEST* VGA uni block on the market! Why kill it?


You might send an e-mail to PPCS and they could special order them. Maybe they will









I don't know the exact reason of the future EOL status of the uni block. Maybe something new will replace it.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Thanks, I will probably order soon, would rather find them local-ish (USA) online in stock though....PPCS is an hour drive from my house.
> 
> Why would they go EOL? The thermosphere is so much more restrictive in its uses. You have *THE BEST* VGA uni block on the market! Why kill it?
> 
> 
> 
> You might send an e-mail to PPCS and they could special order them. Maybe they will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know the exact reason of the future EOL status of the uni block. Maybe something new will replace it.
Click to expand...

I will email PPCS, they have been pretty responsive about inquiries in the past.

Thanks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Thermospheres are good blocks. Not sure why he considers them "restrictive" when in fact the only restrictive part of the block is direction of flow. But then again, VGA Supremacy also limits the direction of flow if I recollect.

However some things ain't for everybody. I would point out that it wasn't too far back when EK Supreme HF was the best CPU cooling block on the market. I got mine at the tail end of it's production life and have had my hands on Supremacy, although for a short short bit of time. In performance tests that I have seen both here and elsewhere Supremacy is better than Supreme, just like EVO is better than Supremacy. Though the performance gains are negligible if you already own Supremacy and likewise Supreme before that.

So I would say "Not to lose one's head" over the EOL in most of EK's lineup. I may be biased here(I am) but I think that if EK is pushing a block aside, they are likely to fill that opening with something better. In my case it was for two reasons I did not upgrade to EVO. Performance benefits not outweighing cost, and CSQ Circles at the time.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Polished and Installed.









The Cautious One


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thermospheres are good blocks. Not sure why he considers them "restrictive" when in fact the only restrictive part of the block is direction of flow. But then again, VGA Supremacy also limits the direction of flow if I recollect.
> 
> However some things ain't for everybody. I would point out that it wasn't too far back when EK Supreme HF was the best CPU cooling block on the market. I got mine at the tail end of it's production life and have had my hands on Supremacy, although for a short short bit of time. In performance tests that I have seen both here and elsewhere Supremacy is better than Supreme, just like EVO is better than Supremacy. Though the performance gains are negligible if you already own Supremacy and likewise Supreme before that.
> 
> So I would say "Not to lose one's head" over the EOL in most of EK's lineup. I may be biased here(I am) but I think that if EK is pushing a block aside, they are likely to fill that opening with something better. In my case it was for two reasons I did not upgrade to EVO. Performance benefits not outweighing cost, and CSQ Circles at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I am fairly certain he meant restrictive in terms of GPU compatibility


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am fairly certain he meant restrictive in terms of GPU compatibility


Yeah that is why I got the EK VGA Supremacy instead of a thermosphere. Cheaper and I was worried about having enough space to fit VRAM heatsinks under the area between the cold plate and the ports. He isn't the only one looking for that block either. I recently sold the one I had to another OCN member.


----------



## Ceadderman

Actually the plate is a good 8th off the DDR. So I am reasonably sure that Thermospheres will work, unless someone is pushing GPU setups manufactured with double depth DDR chips on.









Titans mebbe?









~Ceadder


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually the plate is a good 8th off the DDR. So I am reasonably sure that Thermospheres will work, unless someone is pushing GPU setups manufactured with double depth DDR chips on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Titans mebbe?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


They work fine, but there are very few heatsinks that will fit under the bit that covers the ram (where the terminal comes out). For a block it's brilliant, and it takes up a lot less space concerning it's hight then what for example the Supremacy does. Compatebility wise it's only restrictive if you have a bios button in the way of the terminal (would be a stupid place to put it but there are a lot of stupid decitions being made), and the fact that you will have to change the mountign plate for it to fit other cards than the standard Nvidia mounting holes.

Personally I can't wait to get mine mounted, it's just a shame it will be hidden away since I need some fans and whatnot for my VRMs. Although it will only be a temporary fix for me until I get a new GPU and a full cover block for that.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Supremacy's are EOL now? Hmm...I have four sitting unused in boxes, three unopened and the other was only opened to take pictures. I also have four unused thermospheres that have been mounted but never used either as they didn't fit the blocks I bought them for. I went with four of the HWBOT blocks and they are awesome. Heavy, very heavy compared to a supremacy with an acetal top. Comes with all of the extras one could imagine from copper shims for Tahiti GPU's to branded artic silver paste (I still didn't use it) but if I couldn't buy a supremacy then I would have the perfect reason to go HWBOT. I am sure glad that I got them.


----------



## DarkIdeals

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=EK-Supremacy+MX+CPU+Waterblock+-+Custom+Modded


----------



## tiborrr12

VGA Supremacy is not EOLed!


----------



## Dagamus NM

Thank you for clarifying. For the record, I wouldn't be selling mine either way. What kind of hoarder would I be if I did?

My next EK blocks will be two RVE monoblocks. I haven't decided on which ones yet, I will probably wait until I get my cases and then decide.

Hopefully the 390X and 980Ti blocks will be out before too long. Probably June and September.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Thank you for clarifying. For the record, I wouldn't be selling mine either way. What kind of hoarder would I be if I did?
> 
> *My next EK blocks will be two RVE monoblocks.* I haven't decided on which ones yet, I will probably wait until I get my cases and then decide.
> 
> Hopefully the 390X and 980Ti blocks will be out before too long. Probably June and September.


Monoblocks! Why You No Split the Blocks Up??

TCO


----------



## Dagamus NM

Cleaner look. I figure I will give them a try. I went with multiple pieces on my RIVE and was annoyed that monoblocks were only made for RIVBE.

Full flow over southbridge is not as important I think.

Do you believe otherwise? I do appreciate that I will not be able to use my supremacy evo elite blocks that I already have and their performance on a 5960X versus the monoblocks would be the only thing that would deter me.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Cleaner look. I figure I will give them a try. I went with multiple pieces on my RIVE and was annoyed that monoblocks were only made for RIVBE.
> 
> *Full flow over southbridge is not as important I think.
> 
> Do you believe otherwise?* I do appreciate that I will not be able to use my supremacy evo elite blocks that I already have and their performance on a 5960X versus the monoblocks would be the only thing that would deter me.


I cannot comment on performance although I think that @IT Diva and @geggeg both have monos' and have done test with them.

I can comment that I think the Monoblock is not as attractive as the separate blocks for the RVE.

Just saying.









TCO


----------



## VSG

To each their own of course:










I am done with the review, I will put it up also on the EK forum on OCN in a bit.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> VGA Supremacy is not EOLed!


the HWbot edition is, unfortunately.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Oh yes, please do share. I am very curious to see your results. That is one clean looking board. I am unsure about removing the plastic cover on the rear I/O. The garish extreme plate yes, but I may leave the black cover unless I find it to be in the way of something. I do see it is connected to the heat pipe so I would have to cut that off and remove the plastic thing that says extreme off of the top but at the end of the day it maybe look better to just remove the whole thing.

One thing I wish Asus would have done would have been to leave the two vga Hotwire connections on the board and provide two more via the OC panel thing.

OC panel is dumb other than to have on a test bench rig.

I am hoping for 980Ti matrix platinum to mate to one of these.


----------



## VSG

Already done


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's wierd that you end up with higher temps than
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity, I will check my VRM temps on my Gene VI tonight.


Did you get a chance to check your VRM temps? With my back panel off the VRM temps go up to 58 degrees when running x264 at 4800 1.32v. I have an Antec 1100 case with a fan mount over the CPU backplate, which apparntly does a pretty good job of cooling the VRM. Unfortunately I can not say the same for the VRM block...

I think I may try replacing to the thermal pads that came with the block with some Phobya thermal pads I have or the stock ones that come on the stock maximus block to see if somehow that is the problem. Also I didn't use any thermal grease in combination with the pad, as I thought that wasn't really suppose to be necessary. I guess maybe I should.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Did you get a chance to check your VRM temps? With my back panel off the VRM temps go up to 58 degrees when running x264 at 4800 1.32v. I have an Antec 1100 case with a fan mount over the CPU backplate, which apparntly does a pretty good job of cooling the VRM. Unfortunately I can not say the same for the VRM block...
> 
> I think I may try replacing to the thermal pads that came with the block with some Phobya thermal pads I have or the stock ones that come on the stock maximus block to see if somehow that is the problem. Also I didn't use any thermal grease in combination with the pad, as I thought that wasn't really suppose to be necessary. I guess maybe I should.


The only thing I had the time to check was the motherboard temp in AI Suite 3. and it was at ~31c during gaming.

I will do a more extensive check tonight.

Also what software did you used for your VRM temps? This way I could use the same so the comparison would be better.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> the HWbot edition is, unfortunately.


Aww you are correct. Glad I got mine while I could. No more on EK site, no more on PPCs, two on FCPU, so yeah that means that there are none available to buy.

That is really too bad. The weight comparison between an acrylic top vga supremacy to the HWbot is quite a bit different than the weights of the CPU supremacy evo elite nickel blocks vs the acrylic top supremacy evo. The HWbot blocks are very heavy, lots of copper.

I wonder how many were made total?


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The only thing I had the time to check was the motherboard temp in AI Suite 3. and it was at ~31c during gaming.
> 
> I will do a more extensive check tonight.
> 
> Also what software did you used for your VRM temps? This way I could use the same so the comparison would be better.


AI Suite is the only thing I have found that reports it. Lowest mine gets to is like 39 when idle and room temp about 70F, so there is definitely something strange going on. Maybe the mounting pressure? There were some small black washer things on the board, but they were very thin, and I checked that the VRM left an imprint on the thermal pad, so I decided not to pull up the washer as I didn't want the block possibly scratching the board. Maybe I should though.

Edit, just re-read you post. Yeah the VRM is reported right next to the motherboard temp in AI Suite:


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> AI Suite is the only thing I have found that reports it. Lowest mine gets to is like 39 when idle and room temp about 70F, so there is definitely something strange going on. Maybe the mounting pressure? There were some small black washer things on the board, but they were very thin, and I checked that the VRM left an imprint on the thermal pad, so I decided not to pull up the washer as I didn't want the block possibly scratching the board. Maybe I should though.
> 
> Edit, just re-read you post. Yeah the VRM is reported right next to the motherboard temp in AI Suite:


Ok I didn't have a specific temp for the VRM. I will make sure I have the most recent version of it and let you know


----------



## MrPT

Definitely my Supremacy Evo isn't good, what You thing guys about this convex ?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> Definitely my Supremacy Evo isn't good, what You thing guys about this convex ?


It's supposed to do that. When you tighten the screws, the block applies even pressure onto the CPU heatspreader, i.e. it flattens out.


----------



## MrPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> It's supposed to do that. When you tighten the screws, the block applies even pressure onto the CPU heatspreader, i.e. it flattens out.


But in that range ? Impossible for me is that

Ok than this test was made directly before i made video. Short loop, only pump, 360 radiator and cpu block. Cpu is delided, no ihs, block installed with precise mount for naked cpu, clu used on cpu


----------



## DarkIdeals

So anyone have advice for a loop plan using a caselabs SMA8 with three rads (a 480 on top, a 360 in the front flexbay and a 420 in the basement) I can't for the life of me figure out a decent loop plan and i don't want to order fittings and tubing till i know how many i'll need and what kind of adapters etc..

The only thing i can figure is to go from the top 480 rad (fittings on the left side) down to the cpu, then from cpu down to the EK-FC Bridge CSQ that is on my two GPU, then out of the bridge/terminal thing and into the side of my EK X3 250 Reservoir, as the end of the loop. But the beginning is boggling me for some reason. I need to go from the reservoir down into the basement into the Swiftech MCP655 pump, then i need to go to the 420 rad down below and up to the 360 front flexbay rad, then somehow get all the way across the huge sma8 case to the left side to connect to the 480 rad again. But it would look hideous having a huge length of tube running from all the way on the right side to all the way on the left connecting the 360 flexbay rad to the 480 top rad. And i can't seem to find a cable management hole that would lead between those two areas.

Any ideas?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> It's supposed to do that. When you tighten the screws, the block applies even pressure onto the CPU heatspreader, i.e. it flattens out.
> 
> 
> 
> But in that range ? Impossible for me is that
> 
> Ok than this test was made directly before i made video. Short loop, only pump, 360 radiator and cpu block. Cpu is delided, no ihs, block installed with precise mount for naked cpu, clu used on cpu
Click to expand...

It's supposed to have a bow, wether it's supposed to be that severe, I'm not too sure... temps don't look very good. I would make sure things are tightened properly and the block is making good contact.

In other news, EK released a teaser of their GTX 980 Kingpin water block on Instagram. Didn't notice anything on Facebook for it.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## MadHatter5045

This stuff arrived from PPCs yesterday







.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> So anyone have advice for a loop plan using a caselabs SMA8 with three rads (a 480 on top, a 360 in the front flexbay and a 420 in the basement) I can't for the life of me figure out a decent loop plan and i don't want to order fittings and tubing till i know how many i'll need and what kind of adapters etc..
> 
> The only thing i can figure is to go from the top 480 rad (fittings on the left side) down to the cpu, then from cpu down to the EK-FC Bridge CSQ that is on my two GPU, then out of the bridge/terminal thing and into the side of my EK X3 250 Reservoir, as the end of the loop. But the beginning is boggling me for some reason. I need to go from the reservoir down into the basement into the Swiftech MCP655 pump, then i need to go to the 420 rad down below and up to the 360 front flexbay rad, then somehow get all the way across the huge sma8 case to the left side to connect to the 480 rad again. But it would look hideous having a huge length of tube running from all the way on the right side to all the way on the left connecting the 360 flexbay rad to the 480 top rad. And i can't seem to find a cable management hole that would lead between those two areas.
> 
> Any ideas?


My advice is get a picture of the side view of you case, and a picture of the side view of your board, then use paint to create a diagram like this. I made about 4 or 5 of these until I found the layout that I liked best:


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Already done


Why is the thread locked?? Is it because that is how reviews go here? Sorry, still a noob here.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> But in that range ? Impossible for me is that
> 
> Ok than this test was made directly before i made video. Short loop, only pump, 360 radiator and cpu block. Cpu is delided, no ihs, block installed with precise mount for naked cpu, clu used on cpu


Ooh, nice 3.0CSi on your desktop. I wish I could afford to restore one of those, I am an e30 guy. Sorry off-topic.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Why is the thread locked?? Is it because that is how reviews go here? Sorry, still a noob here.


I have no idea, I got a PM from an OCN mod about this. This is why I don't put up any of my reviews on OCN anymore, and probably that was my last ever one here too


----------



## snef




----------



## Dagamus NM

Game like an Egyptian. Top notch hopscotch as usual Snef! Thank you for reminding the rest of us about our mortality.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have no idea, I got a PM from an OCN mod about this. This is why I don't put up any of my reviews on OCN anymore, and probably that was my last ever one here too


I tought we had the right to have those kind of reviews in our sub-forum! This is stupid.

@derickwm, can you tell us what's the status about that?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have no idea, I got a PM from an OCN mod about this. This is why I don't put up any of my reviews on OCN anymore, and probably that was my last ever one here too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I thought we had the right to have those kind of reviews in our sub-forum! This is stupid.
> 
> @derickwm, can you tell us what's the status about that?
Click to expand...

What is the point of having Reviews if we cannot post our own work as long as we cite for other work included for our reviews?

Isn't that a bit like letting a college student submit his own work and not grading it? C'mon fellas let's get this worked out.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

I think the main reason was this being a product sent for review, not me buying it, but anyway let's see. I have been posting all my stuff elsewhere now anyway.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I think the main reason was this being a product sent for review, not me buying it, but anyway let's see. I have been posting all my stuff elsewhere now anyway.


And I've refered it (from your site) to someone who was actually looking for a review of the block.


----------



## ozzy1925

i think its way off topic but whats the best tim method for the lga 2011 v3 with the ek monoblock? rice on the middle?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> In other news, EK released a teaser of their GTX 980 Kingpin water block on Instagram. Didn't notice anything on Facebook for it.


https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks/photos/a.279856092068429.76142.182927101761329/838575912863108/?type=1


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> And I've refered it (from your site) to someone who was actually looking for a review of the block.


Yeah, I saw that on HWCanucks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i think its way off topic but whats the best tim method for the lga 2011 v3 with the ek monoblock? rice on the middle?


Single line down the middle worked great for me, but try it out and see. Installation itself doesn't take long once you have changed the socket backplate and added on the washers to the standoffs on the monoblock.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have no idea, I got a PM from an OCN mod about this. This is why I don't put up any of my reviews on OCN anymore, and probably that was my last ever one here too


This is a shame and really upsets me!









You have been a fantastic reviewer and contributor here on OCN.

Maybe if more of the membership would stop coming here and finding other forums they would do something.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah, I saw that on HWCanucks












I didn't know you were a member there


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't know you were a member there


I am not, but the link you posted triggered a comment on my website so I tracked it back


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am not, but the link you posted triggered a comment on my website so I tracked it back


Awesome!


----------



## DanWoodsPcMods

Hey guys
when ram only has chips on one side and I want to side EK heat Spreaders want is the best thing to pack the other side out with.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanWoodsPcMods*
> 
> Hey guys
> when ram only has chips on one side and I want to side EK heat Spreaders want is the best thing to pack the other side out with.


the pads that come with the heat spreaders


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanWoodsPcMods*
> 
> Hey guys
> when ram only has chips on one side and I want to side EK heat Spreaders want is the best thing to pack the other side out with.


1.5mm thermal pads


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> the HWbot edition is, unfortunately.


Kind of a pity too, since I was contemplating picking some up but guess such won't be happening when cash is avaialble.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanWoodsPcMods*
> 
> Hey guys
> when ram only has chips on one side and I want to side EK heat Spreaders want is the best thing to pack the other side out with.


if you dont have 1.5m pads you can combine 1mm+0,5mm


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> if you dont have 1.5m pads you can combine 1mm+0,5mm


Add a layer of thermal paste and make it a sandwich


----------



## fisher6

Joining the club here. Built a custom loop with nothing but EK parts but i have one questions about leds. I keep seeing that the EK supremacy evo has a 3mm led slot. Can anyone point me to a guide on how one can be installed and what kinda of led i should get. Thanks.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Joining the club here. Built a custom loop with nothing but EK parts but i have one questions about leds. I keep seeing that the EK supremacy evo has a 3mm led slot. Can anyone point me to a guide on how one can be installed and what kinda of led i should get. Thanks.


Actually it is just as simple as that, 3mm led will fit in the slots on the side, check out the pic for reference


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Joining the club here. Built a custom loop with nothing but EK parts but i have one questions about leds. I keep seeing that the EK supremacy evo has a 3mm led slot. Can anyone point me to a guide on how one can be installed and *what kinda of led i should get*. Thanks.


I'd get Darkside dual 3mm led's for brighter and better leds.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> I'd get Darkside dual 3mm led's for brighter and better leds.


+1 to that. Darkside's LED's are the brightest imo.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> AI Suite is the only thing I have found that reports it. Lowest mine gets to is like 39 when idle and room temp about 70F, so there is definitely something strange going on. Maybe the mounting pressure? There were some small black washer things on the board, but they were very thin, and I checked that the VRM left an imprint on the thermal pad, so I decided not to pull up the washer as I didn't want the block possibly scratching the board. Maybe I should though.
> 
> Edit, just re-read you post. Yeah the VRM is reported right next to the motherboard temp in AI Suite:


Hi,

I think the Gene VI didn't had a VRM temp sensor because i'm with the latest BIOS and the latest version of Asus Suite 3 and still don't have the VRM temp info









I think I won't be able to help you here


----------



## fisher6

I can only find the EK leds here but since the Darkside ones are cheap in the US I could get them shipped to the EU without any customs charges. As far as I can see the leds can be added without taking apart block or draining the loop right.

EDIT: which darkside led should I get, I'm after a blue one but see that there is a lot of different types.


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I can only find the EK leds here but since the Darkside ones are cheap in the US I could get them shipped to the EU without any customs charges. As far as I can see the leds can be added without taking apart block or draining the loop right.
> 
> EDIT: which darkside led should I get, I'm after a blue one but see that there is a lot of different types.


Choose whatever matches your rig.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I think the Gene VI didn't had a VRM temp sensor because i'm with the latest BIOS and the latest version of Asus Suite 3 and still don't have the VRM temp info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I won't be able to help you here


You're fired!









Its cool, I'll just as around in the Maximus owners thread.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> You're fired!


----------



## MrPT

Can someone tell what is the optimal flow rate for supremacy evo to get best performance ?


----------



## VSG

It scales positively with flow rate, so as high as reasonably possible? Keep in mind that rads prefer slower flow rates (once past laminar region of flow anyway) upto a certain point.


----------



## MrPT

Ok, but around 100l/h should be fine to get good performance ?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> Ok, but around 100l/h should be fine to get good performance ?


You might want to get a better pump if that is your flow rate. You are on the border of laminar flow in typical rads as it is, if not lower slightly.


----------



## MrPT

I have swiftech mcp 355 18w pump, this flow is when I run [email protected], with bitspower summit ef (wich by tests is worse then supremacy evo) it was quite enought ( running [email protected] doesn't changes temperatures).

Here is screen of test, short loop just pump, cpu block, 360 radiator (ek XT 360) and aquaero water block. CPU block directly after pump. CPU is delided, without ihs, clu aplied, ek precise mount for naked cpu used. Contact between cpu and block is good, water temp rises when test is performing

[email protected]



[email protected]



Same cpu, delided, no ihs, bit higher voltage, full loop (2 rads, gpu, ram, mobo, aq wb, same [email protected] etc)

http://abload.de/img/ghghghcsair.jpg

Before i got supremacy evo i have read all test i found in google, and everywhere evo was better than summit thats why i decided to take new supremacy than old one

Bet, this could be the reason of my bad temps, but everyone claims this is how it should be ... (video is posted yesterday, here in thread)


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> I have swiftech mcp 355 18w pump, this flow is when I run [email protected], with bitspower summit ef (wich by tests is worse then supremacy evo) it was quite enought ( running [email protected] doesn't changes temperatures).
> 
> Here is screen of test, short loop just pump, cpu block, 360 radiator (ek XT 360) and aquaero water block. CPU block directly after pump. CPU is delided, without ihs, clu aplied, ek precise mount for naked cpu used. Contact between cpu and block is good, water temp rises when test is performing
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> 
> Same cpu, delided, no ihs, bit higher voltage, full loop (2 rads, gpu, ram, mobo, aq wb, same [email protected] etc)
> 
> http://abload.de/img/ghghghcsair.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> Before i got supremacy evo i have read all test i found in google, and everywhere evo was better than summit thats why i decided to take new supremacy than old one
> 
> Bet, this could be the reason of my bad temps, but everyone claims this is how it should be ... (video is posted yesterday, here in thread)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Keep in mind the block was designed for use on an IHS. So you are using it in an application that it wasn't really designed for. In your particular case it may be a good idea to lap the block. But your temps look normal when your running the pump at 12v. They only look bad at 7V. Also, isn't linpack the hottest stress test there is? What sort of temps do you get on x264 and OCCT or even prime?


----------



## Kimir

It's how it should be for a CPU with IHS. Without the IHS, I doubt it to be good.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> So anyone have advice for a loop plan using a caselabs SMA8 with three rads (a 480 on top, a 360 in the front flexbay and a 420 in the basement) I can't for the life of me figure out a decent loop plan and i don't want to order fittings and tubing till i know how many i'll need and what kind of adapters etc..
> 
> The only thing i can figure is to go from the top 480 rad (fittings on the left side) down to the cpu, then from cpu down to the EK-FC Bridge CSQ that is on my two GPU, then out of the bridge/terminal thing and into the side of my EK X3 250 Reservoir, as the end of the loop. But the beginning is boggling me for some reason. I need to go from the reservoir down into the basement into the Swiftech MCP655 pump, then i need to go to the 420 rad down below and up to the 360 front flexbay rad, then somehow get all the way across the huge sma8 case to the left side to connect to the 480 rad again. But it would look hideous having a huge length of tube running from all the way on the right side to all the way on the left connecting the 360 flexbay rad to the 480 top rad. And i can't seem to find a cable management hole that would lead between those two areas.
> 
> Any ideas?


Check out the cautious one build log. It's not finished but he has the same case and you can see how he has it. I know he goes top rad down to the basement rad by going behind the motherboard with flexible tubing. I'm at worm and do t have a link but he has a few post a page or so back


----------



## MrPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Keep in mind the block was designed for use on an IHS. So you are using it in an application that it wasn't really designed for. In your particular case it may be a good idea to lap the block. But your temps look normal when your running the pump at 12v. They only look bad at 7V. Also, isn't linpack the hottest stress test there is? What sort of temps do you get on x264 and OCCT or even prime?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Keep in mind the block was designed for use on an IHS. So you are using it in an application that it wasn't really designed for. In your particular case it may be a good idea to lap the block. But your temps look normal when your running the pump at 12v. They only look bad at 7V. Also, isn't linpack the hottest stress test there is? What sort of temps do you get on x264 and OCCT or even prime?


According to test in web, evo should be over 10% better than bitspower summit, so i should get temps around 55 degrees. Bout lapping, it was and quess what it bend again (great ek quality







)

photo after grinding on special machine with 0,05mm clearance



and after polishing, notice perfect reflection



And how it looks after week You can see in my previous post, just add photo how looks reflection (pay attention to how it is now distorted) after it bend again (please some1 explain this to me how it is possible







, block is not overthighten, its thumbscrewed with added by ek allen key)


----------



## tiborrr12

THE BLOCK IS MEANT TO BE BENT! No polishing of yours will fix this.

Why would you lap a machine polished copper base anyway, we polish it to ~ sub 1 micron flatness?


----------



## VSG

I see Tiborr has already chimed in, but the block as it arrives assumes an installation on a CPU IHS which tends to be curved slightly itself. The mounting hardware provided with the block then helps "bow" the cold plate on the block to mate well with the IHS. This is also why different internal components are provided with the Supremacy Evo so one can better tune the extent of the bow to different heat spreaders on CPUs of different sockets.

Having said all this, I am curious to know if your work here has any effect on the de-lidded CPU you have. Just keep in mind that their naked Ivy kit has likely taken the original nature of the cold plate and not the mod you did so be very careful with installation.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> THE BLOCK IS MEANT TO BE BENT! No polishing of yours will fix this.
> 
> Why would you lap a machine polished copper base anyway, we polish it to ~ sub 1 micron flatness?


I'm confused is meant to be bent or is meant to be flat sub 1 micron? How can it be both?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I'm confused is meant to be bent or is meant to be flat sub 1 micron? How can it be both?


I assume the base is flat and smooth to the micron when it is sitting apart from the rest of the water block parts. When you add the different thickness jet plates at assembly it causes a deliberate slight bend


----------



## derickwm

^hit it right on the head


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I'm confused is meant to be bent or is meant to be flat sub 1 micron? How can it be both?
> 
> 
> 
> I assume the base is flat and smooth to the micron when it is sitting apart from the rest of the water block parts. When you add the different thickness jet plates at assembly it causes a deliberate slight bend
Click to expand...

+Rep to you sir. Couldn'tve said it better myself.









~Ceadder


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I assume the base is flat and smooth to the micron when it is sitting apart from the rest of the water block parts. When you add the different thickness jet plates at assembly it causes a deliberate slight bend


Interesting. So what's the verdict on a naked die application like the OP is doing. I was interested in oring the naked mount myself and would like to know if it would be best to lap or not.

Also wouldn't it be the other way around. It's slightly curved and the jet plates flatten it out? Because he showed pictures with the block disassembled that show it curved before lapping iirc.


----------



## MrPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I assume the base is flat and smooth to the micron when it is sitting apart from the rest of the water block parts. When you add the different thickness jet plates at assembly it causes a deliberate slight bend


\yes, thats how it should be. Jet plates are from 0,1 to 0,3mm thickness, so explain me how its possible that 0,2mm jest plate ( dedicated to hasswell cpus) bend base over 1mm ? Shouldn't it be bent by 0.2mm? Watch this movie i made and tell me is this correct bend ?It should be barely noticeable


----------



## Wirerat

I upgraded my pump from mcp350 to mcp35x.

Now when the pump is at full tilt my res is getting too much vortex and sucking in air.

Is there a larger ek anti cyclone insert that will work with a DDC xres 100 version 2?

Performancepc has a few. Im not sure If any of those work with this old version res though.

Im going to make something from a thin peice of vinyl as a temporary solution.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> \yes, thats how it should be. Jet plates are from 0,1 to 0,3mm thickness, so explain me how its possible that 0,2mm jest plate ( dedicated to hasswell cpus) bend base over 1mm ? Shouldn't it be bent by 0.2mm? Watch this movie i made and tell me is this correct bend ?It should be barely noticeable


The thickness of the jet plate doesn't have anything to do with how much the block bends. It's secret sauce anyway.

There's no need for any modification if you're using naked Ivy kit. Really. All you are doing is just ruining your water block. The bottom is very thin - too much grinding and you might completely ruin the block.


----------



## MrPT

Made today some test : no jet plate, no insert pin = no more flow rate problem.Full loop : 2 rads (240&360), gpu,cpu,mobo and aquaero blok. With pump at full speed i have ~450l/h, with all inserts it was barrerly ~200l/h, and there is no more air bubles in outgoing hose from block.

screen from test
http://abload.de/img/vvvvv16ufq.png


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> *I upgraded my pump from mcp350 to mcp35x.*
> 
> Now when the pump is at full tilt my res is getting too much vortex and sucking in air.
> 
> Is there a larger ek anti cyclone insert that will work with a DDC xres 100 version 2?
> 
> Performancepc has a few. Im not sure If any of those work with this old version res though.
> 
> Im going to make something from a thin peice of vinyl as a temporary solution.










Not sure some would consider this an upgrade. Why do you feel that it is just that?

I have two mcp35x Btw. Just wondering.

The Cautious ONe


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure some would consider this an upgrade. Why do you feel that it is just that?
> 
> I have two mcp35x Btw. Just wondering.
> 
> The Cautious ONe


well I wanted the pwm control.

The little 10watt mcp 350 was getting job done but it was running at 3800rpm all the time. I did play around with voltage to controll it but ultimately wasnt satisfied.

I also have more overhead should I add more blocks. The 350 is a fine pump but after 2 blocks and 2 rads my flow wasnt anything to write home about for sure.

I built my sons loop using a D5 vario and I really liked how much easier a stronger pump can bleed the loop too.

Or possibly I just wanted to buy something shiny /shrug


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> well I wanted the pwm control.
> 
> The little 10watt mcp 350 was getting job done but it was running at 3800rpm all the time. I did play around with voltage to controll it but ultimately wasnt satisfied.
> 
> I also have more overhead should I add more blocks. *The 350 is a fine pump but after 2 blocks and 2 rads my flow wasnt anything to write home about for sure.
> *
> I built my sons loop using a D5 vario and I really liked how much easier a stronger pump can bleed the loop too.
> 
> *Or possibly I just wanted to buy something shiny /shrug*










I understand.

I have a D5 in my 750D. But opted to purchased multiple Mcp35x after using on in the Parvum I built for my brother. I like how small and mobile they are.

TCO


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I understand.
> 
> I have a D5 in my 750D. But opted to purchased multiple Mcp35x after using on in the Parvum I built for my brother. I like how small and mobile they are.
> 
> TCO


definitely, I still suggest the 10w ddc for anyone with a budget as its the lowest tiered pump worth messing with and you get a lot of head pressure/flow from a small quite pump for $50.

I bet you dont need that dual top above 50% pwm. These pumps are crazy strong for such a tiny package.

I came close to just buying a 2nd 350 and a dual top but then I read doubling up pumps in series only offers ~30-40% more flow.

I increased my flow this route when needed without increasing the footprint.

*I need to stop the vortex though*.


----------



## snef

Mmmmmmm Ek fittings in gold

[/url]

[/url]


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> Made today some test : no jet plate, no insert pin = no more flow rate problem.Full loop : 2 rads (240&360), gpu,cpu,mobo and aquaero blok. With pump at full speed i have ~450l/h, with all inserts it was barrerly ~200l/h, and there is no more air bubles in outgoing hose from block.
> 
> screen from test
> http://abload.de/img/vvvvv16ufq.png


There is no difference in flow rates with or without the jet and insert pin. The only explanation for low flow rates is that you had your water block assembled incorrectly (top rotated 90°).


----------



## MrPT

That was the first thing I thought about after i changed the jet plate from stock to haswell referred and had bad temps. But guess what, it was assembled corectly, and every time i disassembly and assembly I pay attention to get this correct. In my opinion cause of so drastic flow rate drop with insert is something went wrong at manufacturing step, but what do I know, I'm just an ordinary guy whom the best unit on the market behaves worse than the worst ...


----------



## tiborrr12

Just send pics of your block to our support via ticketing system so we can see what's up: http://www.ekwb.com/support/index.php?act=tickets&code=open


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Mmmmmmm Ek fittings in gold


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Just send pics of your block to our support via ticketing system so we can see what's up: http://www.ekwb.com/support/index.php?act=tickets&code=open


That's very pretty snef, very, very pretty.

Like what you've done with the GTX 980 K|NGP|N block EK. Saw the FaceBook post.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Mmmmmmm Ek fittings in gold
> 
> [/url]
> 
> [/url]


That's a beauty. Is it some kind of a Mayan theme?


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Mmmmmmm Ek fittings in gold
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [/url]
> 
> [/url]


Because these parts don't cost enough to start with...









Is the EK Naked Ivy Precise Mount compatible with the Supremacy EVO and 4790k?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> That's a beauty. Is it some kind of a Mayan theme?


It's an Egyptian theme.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Is the EK Naked Ivy Precise Mount compatible with the Supremacy EVO and 4790k?


I'm not sure about that. Maybe @derickwm or @EK_tiborrr have the answer.


----------



## Costas

I gather those hieroglyphics just state that 'This build utilises Gold EK components'.....









That build is awesome - nice twist to the theme...!


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Because these parts don't cost enough to start with...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the EK Naked Ivy Precise Mount compatible with the Supremacy EVO and 4790k?


Of course it is. Same outer physical dimensions = same mounting, thus it's compatible.


----------



## Rahldrac

I see you are talking about rotation of the CPU block. I have a Supremacy EVO used on a 4790k. And I thought I read somewhere that the 90 degree, clockwise was the best position? (With the inlet to the most central hole ofc)


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> I gather those hieroglyphics just state that 'This build utilises Gold EK components'.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That build is awesome - nice twist to the theme...!


As far as I can tell it's just.. well I'm bad at this but:
"MR?T [KH??] RCH?AH?Z?? [???] RNT"
So either it's gibberish or I'm hopeless (I think it's the latter







). []= names btw.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Thanks, I will probably order soon, would rather find them local-ish (USA) online in stock though....PPCS is an hour drive from my house.
> 
> Why would they go EOL? The thermosphere is so much more restrictive in its uses. You have *THE BEST* VGA uni block on the market! Why kill it?
> 
> 
> 
> You might send an e-mail to PPCS and they could special order them. Maybe they will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know the exact reason of the future EOL status of the uni block. Maybe something new will replace it.
Click to expand...

PPCS just got a shipment in and they had good stock. Ordered 2. Cant wait to try them out. Wish PPCS was open today, taking the kids to the beach, and it would have been a 10 minute detour to pick them up.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> PPCS just got a shipment in and they had good stock. Ordered 2. Cant wait to try them out. Wish PPCS was open today, taking the kids to the beach, and it would have been a 10 minute detour to pick them up.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I see you are talking about rotation of the CPU block. I have a Supremacy EVO used on a 4790k. And I thought I read somewhere that the 90 degree, clockwise was the best position? (With the inlet to the most central hole ofc)


Yes you did read here :

http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014 ...this is an excellent review , with some talent on it.

Why i am here is i want to ask on the EK thread about EK HD 10 /12 Rigid tubing , and if any time soon it will be made in 1 meter lengths , or at least 600 - 700 mm , as the 500mm lengths are very limiting indeed , and are a really bad size for off cuts too , wasting most of the rest of each tube , because the off cut is never quite long enough for any other part of your loop , making lots of waste , but mostly , i am forced to use a joiner because the tubes are too short.

I got some E22 1 meter lengths , but it is awful to use compared to EK HD , which is awesome , just need 1 meter lengths badly !

I am making nice tight 30 mm radius bends with EK HD 10 /12 , and as @ Rahldrac said , so happens i have my EK block rotated 90" CCW , for ease of loop , and aesthetics of loop , and bonus minor improved performance.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Nice tight 90" bends



My loop , note necessary join up top because tube not long enough at 500 mm , did center tubes again after this pic , because made an improved jig



Improved jig for EK HD tube at 30 mm radius


----------



## Dagamus NM

That is a clever jig. What are the smaller pieces attached to underneath?


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> That is a clever jig. What are the smaller pieces attached to underneath?


There is a full build log in my PC build log , it is awesome this jig , it stops the back of the tube wanting to have a slight bow in it , it forces the tube hard up to front mandrel and keeps the tube very square and straight !

You can do two 90's immediately after each other ! and keep them both perfectly square and straight , you can do two bends at the same time !

You can adjust with ease , a bend that is just 1 or 2 mm too short or long on a multi bend , by marking on the MDF mandrel at the end of the tube , re heat , put back in jig , place end of tube at pencil line and re do bend , takes the guessing out of it , and you get perfect bends much more easily









The things i think you are asking about ? are just a repeat of the two mandrels glued down ( latter screwed ) i use this other identical MDF mandrel freehand on the other side of long back wall , ( its a 3 piece , 2 mandrels and a back wall ) , so to the left side of pic. so i have other mandrels i made


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Screwed down




I dont use the other longer skinny mandrels , but they could be handy , a inside and outside bend freehand mandrel


----------



## absoluteczech

Hi,

Hoping someone can help me. I just received my EK DDC X RES 100 (with included pump)
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-ddc/ek-xres-100-ddc-mx-3-2-pwm-incl-pump.html

First question is, it said PWM but it came with a molex and pwm fan header. Should both be plugged in? Because it's running a full blast and its making a loud buzzing noise.

I tried unplugging the PWM fan header from the mobo and it made absolutely 0 difference.

2nd is that buzzing normal? It's really annoying high pitched buzz, I installed fan xpert 2 from asus and it says the RPM is 4500RPM and it wont let me adjust it. any ideas and thoughts?

thanks


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *absoluteczech*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Hoping someone can help me. I just received my EK DDC X RES 100 (with included pump)
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-ddc/ek-xres-100-ddc-mx-3-2-pwm-incl-pump.html
> 
> First question is, it said PWM but it came with a molex and pwm fan header. Should both be plugged in? Because it's running a full blast and its making a loud buzzing noise.
> 
> I tried unplugging the PWM fan header from the mobo and it made absolutely 0 difference.
> 
> 2nd is that buzzing normal? It's really annoying high pitched buzz, I installed fan xpert 2 from asus and it says the RPM is 4500RPM and it wont let me adjust it. any ideas and thoughts?
> 
> thanks


The molex has to be plugged in for power. The fan header should go to your cpu fan on mobo. You can set up profiles for pump speeds in your bios. Once the air bubbles work their way out of the system there should be minimal noise assuming you aren't running it dry. I did find a couple settings that vibrate more and less than others, like resonant frequencies. Just play with your settings till you find the ones that work best for your pump.


----------



## absoluteczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> The molex has to be plugged in for power. The fan header should go to your cpu fan on mobo. You can set up profiles for pump speeds in your bios. Once the air bubbles work their way out of the system there should be minimal noise assuming you aren't running it dry. I did find a couple settings that vibrate more and less than others, like resonant frequencies. Just play with your settings till you find the ones that work best for your pump.


Thanks,

Does it HAVE to be the CPU fan header? I currently have it on Chassis 3 header.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *absoluteczech*
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Does it HAVE to be the CPU fan header? I currently have it on Chassis 3 header.


It doesn't have to be, but some mobos have better custom settings for cpu fan. Could be wrong though.


----------



## absoluteczech

doesn't seem to make as I have all my fans set to "silent' profile on the mobo. I have a maximus impact vii

another thing EK wiring seems to be opposite of other PWM fans...?





their green is on the outside where others show blue


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *absoluteczech*
> 
> doesn't seem to make as I have all my fans set to "silent' profile on the mobo. I have a maximus impact vii
> 
> another thing EK wiring seems to be opposite of other PWM fans...?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> their green is on the outside where others show blue


Colors shouldnt matter. Pin 3 is speed sense, and pin 4 is PWM.


----------



## absoluteczech

ok hoping EK will chime in. hopefully I don't have a dud...


----------



## ShinGoutetsu

Happy days, no leaks and temps seem good. Cpu idles at 21 degrees and gpu's at 25 degrees. Time to mess with overclocking


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Why i am here is i want to ask on the EK thread about EK HD 10 /12 Rigid tubing , and if any time soon it will be made in 1 meter lengths , or at least 600 - 700 mm , as the 500mm lengths are very limiting indeed , and are a really bad size for off cuts too , wasting most of the rest of each tube , because the off cut is never quite long enough for any other part of your loop , making lots of waste , but mostly , i am forced to use a joiner because the tubes are too short.


You are actually the first person asking to have longer tubes than 500mm. You have a very specific need by going with a tube longer than that. I didn't heard anything about making longer tube.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *absoluteczech*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Hoping someone can help me. I just received my EK DDC X RES 100 (with included pump)
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-ddc/ek-xres-100-ddc-mx-3-2-pwm-incl-pump.html
> 
> First question is, it said PWM but it came with a molex and pwm fan header. Should both be plugged in? Because it's running a full blast and its making a loud buzzing noise.
> 
> I tried unplugging the PWM fan header from the mobo and it made absolutely 0 difference.
> 
> 2nd is that buzzing normal? It's really annoying high pitched buzz, I installed fan xpert 2 from asus and it says the RPM is 4500RPM and it wont let me adjust it. any ideas and thoughts?
> 
> thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *absoluteczech*
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Does it HAVE to be the CPU fan header? I currently have it on Chassis 3 header.


On your impact you have 2 fan headers. CPU_FAN and CHA_FAN1. Both are 4pin but the only PWM header is the CPU_FAN. You need to plug it there.


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You are actually the first person asking to have longer tubes than 500mm. You have a very specific need by going with a tube longer than that. I didn't heard anything about making longer tube.:


I went with Bitspower tubing and bought some 1000mm tubes. I wanted to have enough and they are cheaper to buy than two 500mm tubes.


----------



## absoluteczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You are actually the first person asking to have longer tubes than 500mm. You have a very specific need by going with a tube longer than that. I didn't heard anything about making longer tube.
> 
> On your impact you have 2 fan headers. CPU_FAN and CHA_FAN1. Both are 4pin but the only PWM header is the CPU_FAN. You need to plug it there.


t

Thank you that was it. But question. Shouldn't it be silent at full blast still? Also what rpm do you recommend it running at? Full blast seems to be 4500rpm


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *absoluteczech*
> 
> t
> 
> Thank you that was it. But question. Shouldn't it be silent at full blast still? Also what rpm do you recommend it running at? Full blast seems to be 4500rpm


It runs quiet, but not completely silent. I wanna say mines running at ~3100rpm. Im using the d5 pump thiugh.


----------



## absoluteczech

my D5 was super silent too. This however isn't







currently running it at around 2000rpm and it seems to be quiet


----------



## MrMD

Looking at finally adding my MSI 970 into my Loop.I dont wanna splash out on a full block (£100 in the UK :/) Was just gonna get an EK thermosphere block which can be carried over in the future.

I seen in the pic in a different thread of some1 doing the same.

I see no added vrm heatsinks tho, does this card not require them due to the plating to the side of the gpu die?

Also lookin at getting a Backplate from Coldzero,i take it a thermosphere block is compatible with one of these(Assuming i get the watercooling layout version).As from everything i can find the EK TF5 Back-plate is only compatible with the full cover block.

Cheers


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You are actually the first person asking to have longer tubes than 500mm. You have a very specific need by going with a tube longer than that. I didn't heard anything about making longer tube.
> 
> On your impact you have 2 fan headers. CPU_FAN and CHA_FAN1. Both are 4pin but the only PWM header is the CPU_FAN. You need to plug it there.


Iv read it several times , looking around for longer tube , it doesnt seem at all specific to me , that is not a long run along the top , i would have thought a lot of dudes would want longer tube , but probably compromise the loop in some way , like i have to get it done.

E22 and Bitspower both produce 1 M tubes now because there is a big demand for it and stock is sold out as a result , so clearly EK should follow suit.

I have really liked using EK HD , but i am going to have to change to Bitspower now i have found they do the 1 M lengths , hopefully it is as good as EK HD

Are you going to suggest it back at EK ? , by your response not sure ? , i hope so , its awesome tube , and EK are just not aware of the demand


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Looking at finally adding my MSI 970 into my Loop.I dont wanna splash out on a full block (£100 in the UK :/) Was just gonna get an EK thermosphere block which can be carried over in the future.
> 
> I seen in the pic in a different thread of some1 doing the same.
> 
> I see no added vrm heatsinks tho, does this card not require them due to the plating to the side of the gpu die?
> 
> Also lookin at getting a Backplate from Coldzero,i take it a thermosphere block is compatible with one of these(Assuming i get the watercooling layout version).As from everything i can find the EK TF5 Back-plate is only compatible with the full cover block.
> 
> Cheers


I believe that the VRMs are actually the little black thingies on the other side of the chokes. I could be wrong maybe I am seeing things.

I am doing something a bit similar but using FC heatsinks rather than modifying the stock coolers of my GPUs. Don't see why that won't work.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Iv read it several times , looking around for longer tube , it doesnt seem at all specific to me , that is not a long run along the top , i would have thought a lot of dudes would want longer tube , but probably compromise the loop in some way , like i have to get it done.
> 
> E22 and Bitspower both produce 1 M tubes now because there is a big demand for it and stock is sold out as a result , so clearly EK should follow suit.
> 
> I have really liked using EK HD , but i am going to have to change to Bitspower now i have found they do the 1 M lengths , hopefully it is as good as EK HD
> 
> Are you going to suggest it back at EK ? , by your response not sure ? , i hope so , its awesome tube , and EK are just not aware of the demand


Sorry if my message sounded like I didn't care. I really do and I will of course suggest it to the guys! It's just that it really was the first time someone said something about having longer tubes.









Maybe we will add the 1m tube in our inventory soon.

Cheers!


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Sorry if my message sounded like I didn't care. I really do and I will of course suggest it to the guys! It's just that it really was the first time someone said something about having longer tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe we will add the 1m tube in our inventory soon.
> 
> Cheers!


Sure i understand , awesome man i f you guys do add to inventory that would be great , and im sure it will be popular for the bigger builds , ie around 750D size and bigger , i know most folk that have larger rigs will usually go for 16 mm tube , but would be good to have 12 mm too , i like working with the 12 mm

Regardless of what runs i do , i prefer buying all 1 Metre lengths anyway , then i have more options , even a 700 - 800 mm option would be very good

Thanks for the replys , much appreciated


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Sorry if my message sounded like I didn't care. I really do and I will of course suggest it to the guys! It's just that it really was the first time someone said something about having longer tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe we will add the 1m tube in our inventory soon.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Sure i understand , awesome man i f you guys do add to inventory that would be great , and im sure it will be popular for the bigger builds , ie around 750D size and bigger , i know most folk that have larger rigs will usually go for 16 mm tube , but would be good to have 12 mm too , i like working with the 12 mm
> 
> Regardless of what runs i do , i prefer buying all 1 Metre lengths anyway , then i have more options , even a 700 - 800 mm option would be very good
> 
> Thanks for the replys , much appreciated
Click to expand...

Same here!

I wonder what took it so long for everyone to consider asking for longer tubes.







options maybe?

IIRC only Primochill offer 30" tubes which is quite a perfect length. So if EK can follow suit, it will surely mean great for people who can't or has no access to options like McMasters if I got the name right.


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Sure i understand , awesome man i f you guys do add to inventory that would be great , and im sure it will be popular for the bigger builds , ie around 750D size and bigger , i know most folk that have larger rigs will usually go for 16 mm tube , but would be good to have 12 mm too , i like working with the 12 mm
> 
> Regardless of what runs i do , i prefer buying all 1 Metre lengths anyway , then i have more options , even a 700 - 800 mm option would be very good
> 
> Thanks for the replys , much appreciated


1000mm tubes are cheaper than two 500mm by a few dollars when I bought 2x 1000mm and 2x 500mm. Should have just ordered another 1000mm instead of the two 500s as it would have save me a few bucks. I see what you're saying with larger cases and people who want to bend their tubes instead of using fittings will need the longer tubes.


----------



## Bertovzki

Yip as i thought some like minds speak out , great , yes i dont like builds with all fittings as much as just bends , this is exactly why im here at all !! , i had never seen a hard line cooling rig until a year ago ,when i joined OCN , i had seen my 67 year old mans full scratch water cooled rig with custom milled blocks and scratch case , flexy tube in it.

Yes my old man was years ahead of me doing this.

But when i saw rigid and UV and lighting etc.. i had to make this rig , and it was infact no fittings and just bends that i wanted to achieve , and you need 1 M lengths to do this , my old mans rig is in disguise hiden , looks like a audio amp , as that is what it is supposed to do vanish , but for first time i am going aesthetics.

Check my sig , rig if you are interested in what im doing , and what main theme is.


----------



## Frontside

My EK Supremacy Acetal Caldari Edition wateblock


----------



## fisher6

I noticed that I had one plug missig in the packaging when I got my GPU water block. I bought one and all is good but I'm pretty sure you are supposed to get two of them. Anyone else had this issue before?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I noticed that I had one plug missig in the packaging when I got my GPU water block. I bought one and all is good but I'm pretty sure you are supposed to get two of them. Anyone else had this issue before?


Yes, you're suppose to have 2 stop plugs.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontside*
> 
> My EK Supremacy Acetal Caldari Edition wateblock


Awesome.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes, you're suppose to have 2 stop plugs.


Thanks for the reply. I'm sure I got one less than I was supposed to get then. Human error maybe. I was lucky my local store had same ones in stock.


----------



## dilster97

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-gtx-9x0-series/ek-fc980-gtx-classy-kpe-acetal-nickel.html
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-gtx-9x0-series/ek-fc980-gtx-classy-kpe-nickel.html

Thanks for the GTX 980 KPE blocks EK <3


----------



## MegaTheJohny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> It doesn't have to be, but some mobos have better custom settings for cpu fan. Could be wrong though.


guys I have same qustion, are u sure for this ? I have Asus Rampage Extreme V and I would like to connect pump PWM header to CHA_fan (not CPU one) because CHA fan is much closer to my pump.
Does it make any difference or only better BIOS settings?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> It doesn't have to be, but some mobos have better custom settings for cpu fan. Could be wrong though.
> 
> 
> 
> guys I have same qustion, are u sure for this ? I have Asus Rampage Extreme V and I would like to connect pump PWM header to CHA_fan (not CPU one) because CHA fan is much closer to my pump.
> Does it make any difference or only better BIOS settings?
Click to expand...

I'd just be careful and make sure the fan header you want to connect it to is a PWM header if that's what your pump requires.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> guys I have same qustion, are u sure for this ? I have Asus Rampage Extreme V and I would like to connect my pump header to CHA_fan (not CPU one) because CHA fan is much closer to my pump.
> Does it make any difference or only better BIOS settings?


I have the Asus Maximus VII Hero motherboard, and the CHA fan headers on it are 4 pin but the 4th pin is dummy pin, it doesn't do anything. Any fan connected to it will be voltage controlled. Its very annoying and quite deceiving on Asus's part, as I am sure most people assume a 4 pin header is going to be PWM. Maybe its different on your board, but I kind of doubt it. Also the CPU_OPT fan header does not send out a PWM signal. I assumed it would mirror the PWM behavior of whatever you have the CPU fan header set to but it doesn't. Anything connected there will not be controllable at all. All it will do is report the RPM's and run at 100%. You can buy PWM splitter cable and connect it to CPU fan header. Or swiftech has a PWM splitter that is powered via SATA power and allows you to PWM control up to 8 devices off on header.

Here is the page from the Hero manual on fans:



As you see on the CHA fan headers it just says +5V instead which is the equivalent of 100% PWM. The CPU_OPT fan header does show PWM on that pin, but when I tried connecting my MCP50x to the header it wouldn't pass along the PWM signal to it.

Another option is if you aren't using the fan header on your graphics card you can get a VGA fan header adapter cable and use it to connect your Pump to your graphics card's fan header, and then use MSI afterburner to control the pump speed. That is what I do and it works well. You will need something like this:


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> guys I have same qustion, are u sure for this ? I have Asus Rampage Extreme V and I would like to connect pump PWM header to CHA_fan (not CPU one) because CHA fan is much closer to my pump.
> Does it make any difference or only better BIOS settings?


All the fan headers on your motherboard are PWM.









Lucky you


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Looking at finally adding my MSI 970 into my Loop.I dont wanna splash out on a full block (£100 in the UK :/) Was just gonna get an EK thermosphere block which can be carried over in the future.
> 
> I seen in the pic in a different thread of some1 doing the same.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see no added vrm heatsinks tho, does this card not require them due to the plating to the side of the gpu die?
> 
> Also lookin at getting a Backplate from Coldzero,i take it a thermosphere block is compatible with one of these(Assuming i get the watercooling layout version).As from everything i can find the EK TF5 Back-plate is only compatible with the full cover block.
> 
> Cheers


There is a VRM heatsink it is on the other side of the die. I circled it in yellow.



You should be able to re-use it. I would just make sure you have a fan on it. Using the heatsink passively probably won't provide enough cooling. I think some of the VRAM is under the plate on the other side of the die, and there is probably some more VRAM chips on back side of the card as well. You don't really need to worry about putting heatsinks on those though as long as you have good airflow.


----------



## MegaTheJohny

thanks for help boys... I am kinda done with tubing soon... gonna post update as soon as I fill the loop







all EK parts


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> thanks for help boys... I am kinda done with tubing soon... gonna post update as soon as I fill the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all EK parts


Yep, Akira beat me to it. All of the headers on both the RIVE and RVE are PWM. I just pulled out both manuals to confirm.


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> There is a VRM heatsink it is on the other side of the die. I circled it in yellow.
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to re-use it. I would just make sure you have a fan on it. Using the heatsink passively probably won't provide enough cooling. I think some of the VRAM is under the plate on the other side of the die, and there is probably some more VRAM chips on back side of the card as well. You don't really need to worry about putting heatsinks on those though as long as you have good airflow.


Ok good to know,my case is a 540,i currently have a 240mm rad on the top,gonna get another for the front and mount it so the bottom intake at the front has a fan pushing air into the case,with the rad mounted with fans on the top 2 slots.

rad-fan <---
rad-fan <---
- fan <---

I take it this should be fine then for my intentions with passive heatsinks added to the VRMs to the left of the die?The airflow of the non-restricted fan would be blowing over the PCB .


----------



## ozzy1925




----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Have fun with the drill!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Have fun with the drill!


Thanks!waiting for the cone drill


----------



## ShinGoutetsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> All the fan headers on your motherboard are PWM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lucky you


Really? I tried plugging my swiftech 8 way pwm splitter into CHA_FAN3B and it ran the fans attached to it at 100% all the time, I moved it to CPU_OPT and they now work with pwm correctly (I have dual series ddc pumps on CPU_FAN header).


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShinGoutetsu*
> 
> Really? I tried plugging my swiftech 8 way pwm splitter into CHA_FAN3B and it ran the fans attached to it at 100% all the time, I moved it to CPU_OPT and they now work with pwm correctly (I have dual series ddc pumps on CPU_FAN header).


From what I've read on the Asus Rog forums (can't find it right now), the manual states the CHA Fans are PWM, but in truth and fact they are not. Looks like you just proved it!


----------



## ShinGoutetsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> From what I've read on the Asus Rog forums (can't find it right now), the manual states the CHA Fans are PWM, but in truth and fact they are not. Looks like you just proved it!


Interesting, I'll go check those forums now


----------



## MegaTheJohny

hey guys...my EK build is almost done...I have one question... Did I set my paralel GPU configuration properly? (I didn't install bottom tube yet,so I use pain for illustration)


----------



## MegaTheJohny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShinGoutetsu*
> 
> Really? I tried plugging my swiftech 8 way pwm splitter into CHA_FAN3B and it ran the fans attached to it at 100% all the time, I moved it to CPU_OPT and they now work with pwm correctly (I have dual series ddc pumps on CPU_FAN header).


I guess you have Asus Rampage V Extreme ?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> hey guys...my EK build is almost done...I have one question... Did I set my paralel GPU configuration properly? (I didn't install bottom tube yet,so I use pain for illustration)


yes its parallel


----------



## MegaTheJohny

Did I set inlet- outlet for my GPUs properly ?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> Did I set inlet- outlet for my GPUs properly ?


yes


----------



## ShinGoutetsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> I guess you have Asus Rampage V Extreme ?


yes i do of course


----------



## Reaper28

I have a quick question (again lol). For the 980 ACX block which isn't full cover in the nickel/plexi version, what isn't covered? just the VRM's or mosfets?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I have a quick question (again lol). For the 980 ACX block which isn't full cover in the nickel/plexi version, what isn't covered? just the VRM's or mosfets?


It is just an aesthetics difference, the nckel/plexi version cools the same as the nickel/acetal version. Look at the images of the back of both blocks on the EK website- the metal part is the same.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It is just an aesthetics difference, the nckel/plexi version cools the same as the nickel/acetal version. Look at the images of the back of both blocks on the EK website- the metal part is the same.


Really? I was talking to EK on Facebook and they said it didn't cover the entire PCB. This is the block I'm interested in.. for the 980 SC ACX 2.0 card

EK-FC980-GTX_NP_front1_1200.jpg 460k .jpg file


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Really? I was talking to EK on Facebook and they said it didn't cover the entire PCB. This is the block I'm interested in.. for the 980 SC ACX 2.0 card
> 
> EK-FC980-GTX_NP_front1_1200.jpg 460k .jpg file


like any other full cover block, it won't cover the entire PCB with the cooling plate. The important things are covered though like the GPU, vRAM and VRMs. But no it won't cover the entire PCB, but then again it doesn't need to.

Edit: this would be the block mounted to a card, and the stuff that isn't covered really doesn't need to be covered:

source: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/f/i/file_132_44.jpg


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Really? I was talking to EK on Facebook and they said it didn't cover the entire PCB. This is the block I'm interested in.. for the 980 SC ACX 2.0 card
> 
> EK-FC980-GTX_NP_front1_1200.jpg 460k .jpg file


That's not what full cover means in this field, it cools everything that the stock cooler does on the GPU and not just the core- hence the full cover. Look here for more: http://www.ekwb.com/support/index.php?act=article&code=view&id=28

But if that's not to your liking, there are other coolers that do the job too.


----------



## Reaper28

Sorry let me correct my wording lol, I was told it didn't cover all the components on the PCB I don't really care if it covers the entire PCB at least that's what I was told by somebody from EK


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Sorry let me correct my wording lol, I was told it didn't cover all the components on the PCB I don't really care if it covers the entire PCB at least that's what I was told by somebody from EK


Probably just a language barrier there, it cools the same as the acetal version.


----------



## inedenimadam

Man, I dont know who I am more disappointed in right now...EK or PPCS. I know the VGA supremacy is the cheapest block that EK makes, but I should not need to clean up sloppy tool work. Not to mention the supplied hex keys ARE THE WRONG SIZE!

Quality Check #31=failed

Now for PPCS, they sent me (4x) 13/16 compression fittings, when my order clearly says otherwise. You cant even fit two of them onto a VGA supremacy. If this was the first time they sent me the wrong thing, I might cut them some slack, but with uncanny consistency, my orders are delivered incorrectly.

I will take pictures of the garbage in the threads and post them before I clean them up, right after I head to the hardware store to buy new hex keys.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Man, I dont know who I am more disappointed in right now...EK or PPCS. I know the VGA supremacy is the cheapest block that EK makes, but I should not need to clean up sloppy tool work. Not to mention the supplied hex keys ARE THE WRONG SIZE!
> 
> Quality Check #31=failed
> 
> Now for PPCS, they sent me (4x) 13/16 compression fittings, when my order clearly says otherwise. You cant even fit two of them onto a VGA supremacy. If this was the first time they sent me the wrong thing, I might cut them some slack, but with uncanny consistency, my orders are delivered incorrectly.
> 
> I will take pictures of the garbage in the threads and post them before I clean them up, right after I head to the hardware store to buy new hex keys.


I am sure they will make it right


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Man, I dont know who I am more disappointed in right now...EK or PPCS. I know the VGA supremacy is the cheapest block that EK makes, but I should not need to clean up sloppy tool work. Not to mention the supplied hex keys ARE THE WRONG SIZE!
> 
> Quality Check #31=failed
> 
> Now for PPCS, they sent me (4x) 13/16 compression fittings, when my order clearly says otherwise. You cant even fit two of them onto a VGA supremacy. If this was the first time they sent me the wrong thing, I might cut them some slack, but with uncanny consistency, my orders are delivered incorrectly.
> 
> I will take pictures of the garbage in the threads and post them before I clean them up, right after I head to the hardware store to buy new hex keys.
> 
> 
> 
> I am sure they will make it right
Click to expand...

Its not worth the headache to pack/send/wait for $20 bucks worth of fittings.
Its not worth waiting while somewhere QCs some blocks and send them back.

I am just going to eat the time/energy/money on this one, and give some other vendors/manufacturers a shot for the next build.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Its not worth the headache to pack/send/wait for $20 bucks worth of fittings.
> Its not worth waiting while somewhere QCs some blocks and send them back.
> 
> I am just going to eat the time/energy/money on this one, and give some other vendors/manufacturers a shot for the next build.


Yes I would be pissed at ek but i am sure because they have done it for me that PPC will make it all right


----------



## Kritikill

Here is my EK products hard at work! I am debating on adding LED's to the ports on the CPU block and pump, I am not a fan of dwindling wires. Anyone have a pic with LED's lit up in the pump housing?


----------



## King4x4

I see new products on EKs webpage... 980 Classy blocks! and two kits for the CaseLabs S8 and inWin case!

EK starting to do customized kits?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Be careful what you say to or about PerfPCs .... If they are grumpy they will say it's your fault and not to order again because they don't need your business.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> I see new products on EKs webpage... 980 Classy blocks! and two kits for the CaseLabs S8 and inWin case!
> 
> EK starting to do customized kits?


It's a special partnership with those 2 companies.

It's basically our EK-Kits but with a bit of steroids.


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Its not worth the headache to pack/send/wait for $20 bucks worth of fittings.
> Its not worth waiting while somewhere QCs some blocks and send them back.
> 
> I am just going to eat the time/energy/money on this one, and give some other vendors/manufacturers a shot for the next build.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2432644/width/500/height/1000
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2432645/width/500/height/1000


PPCS was great to me when I was as sent 12mm tubes instead of the 16mm I ordered. They quickly sent me my replacements and a reship label. Was butter smooth experience.

All my EK gear has been good but there are some times some extra tags or leftovers from tooling, my ASUS Impact block for instance but a pair of tweezers fixed it. It's a good idea to flush them out to make sure they are clean b fore installing in your loop.


----------



## Ceadderman

I got plenty of EK keys laying about. So what size is it a posed to be an I will ship you one.









On the PPC issue, just tell them they sent the wrong size (nicely of course) and they will make it right. They don't QC. They sell. So if there is a sticker on the box at the seams, you need to request that they QC prior to shipping.

I just got my order last month and noticed that one of my fittings was a blem. The collar was 2-3mm shorter than standard. Sent them a pic showing the difference on a block for proof. Not only did they get with the mfr, they shipped me a replacement collar at their expense and even contacted the mfr about a custom request and I got the okeedokee for that last week.

No vendor gets every shipment right. Sometimes it seems like they don't care. Especially when you deal with one more than most. But they do indeed care. It's how you approach a vendor about a problem that can make or break the relationship.

Make sure to contact them within 3 days but not so quickly that your anger bleeds into your email. Murphy's law applies and the age old addage "SH" too.









~Ceadder


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I got plenty of EK keys laying about. So what size is it a posed to be an I will ship you one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the PPC issue, just tell them they sent the wrong size (nicely of course) and they will make it right. They don't QC. They sell. So if there is a sticker on the box at the seams, you need to request that they QC prior to shipping.
> 
> I just got my order last month and noticed that one of my fittings was a blem. The collar was 2-3mm shorter than standard. Sent them a pic showing the difference on a block for proof. Not only did they get with the mfr, they shipped me a replacement collar at their expense and even contacted the mfr about a custom request and I got the okeedokee for that last week.
> 
> No vendor gets every shipment right. Sometimes it seems like they don't care. Especially when you deal with one more than most. But they do indeed care. It's how you approach a vendor about a problem that can make or break the relationship.
> 
> Make sure to contact them within 3 days but not so quickly that your anger bleeds into your email. Murphy's law applies and the age old addage "SH" too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


thanks for the offer on the keys!
I have a pretty good stack of ek keys, and not a one of them fit! I did happen to have the right one in a set out in the garage. Got the block torn apart, cleaned up with a razor blade, sand paper, and compressed air. Installed the blocks using some spare fittings and I am quite pleased with the results. Ran valley for about an hour at stock and never saw over 38C on my 980s. Looks like I have plenty of overclock headroom.

EK gets a pass and will see my business again. Sometimes things slip through.
PPCS is only an hour from my house. I think I will just drive over there the next time I need something, as apparently they have monkeys doing the pull/pack.

I might have over-reacted last night. The quickest way to be let down is to set high expectations.


----------



## MegaTheJohny

guys... I have EK D5 pwm pump, and I am planing to first time fill my loop tomorrow.
If I don't use PWM cable (just for filling my loop), will my D5 pump run at full speed? I guess it will ?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> guys... I have EK D5 pwm pump, and I am planing to first time fill my loop tomorrow.
> If I don't use PWM cable (just for filling my loop), will my D5 pump run at full speed? I guess it will ?


Saw this on another thread. Cant remember where though. I wanna say it runs at like 40% unplugged.

Edit: http://www.overclock.net/t/1526763/laing-d5-pump-did-i-get-ripped-off/20#post_23198816


----------



## VSG

60%


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Man, I dont know who I am more disappointed in right now...EK or PPCS. I know the VGA supremacy is the cheapest block that EK makes, but I should not need to clean up sloppy tool work. Not to mention the supplied hex keys ARE THE WRONG SIZE!
> 
> Quality Check #31=failed
> 
> Now for PPCS, they sent me (4x) 13/16 compression fittings, when my order clearly says otherwise. You cant even fit two of them onto a VGA supremacy. If this was the first time they sent me the wrong thing, I might cut them some slack, but with uncanny consistency, my orders are delivered incorrectly.
> 
> I will take pictures of the garbage in the threads and post them before I clean them up, right after I head to the hardware store to buy new hex keys.


I bought an EK Supermacy upgrade and the screws in the kit were not all the same size. There was 3 of the same screws and 1 longer one. I had to use the screws from my previous EK block.

I'll agree with you, someone in quality control needs to get more sleep at night or pay more attention


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Here is my EK products hard at work! I am debating on adding LED's to the ports on the CPU block and pump, I am not a fan of dwindling wires. Anyone have a pic with LED's lit up in the pump housing?


Hey Krit, why do you have extensions on such short lengths? i.e. CPU and GPU horizontal runs? Seems kinda wasted unless those rings are something else and I am missing what they are. Could be some new kind of Thermo rings I guess.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey Krit, why do you have extensions on such short lengths? i.e. CPU and GPU horizontal runs? Seems kinda wasted unless those rings are something else and I am missing what they are. Could be some new kind of Thermo rings I guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I am not sure what you are talking about? The cable clamps?


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Here is my EK products hard at work! I am debating on adding LED's to the ports on the CPU block and pump, I am not a fan of dwindling wires. Anyone have a pic with LED's lit up in the pump housing?


I think many of us here share that feeling. I too would like some LEDs inside my cpu block but the wires, the wires


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey Krit, why do you have extensions on such short lengths? i.e. CPU and GPU horizontal runs? Seems kinda wasted unless those rings are something else and I am missing what they are. Could be some new kind of Thermo rings I guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not sure what you are talking about? The cable clamps?
Click to expand...

If they are silver(top) and blue(bottom) then yes I guess those are cable clamps. They look like some sort of tubing extension.










~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Here is my EK products hard at work! I am debating on adding LED's to the ports on the CPU block and pump, I am not a fan of dwindling wires. Anyone have a pic with LED's lit up in the pump housing?


I wouldn't touch that rig with a 10 foot piece of PETG! It's perfect just the way it is!!


----------



## Kritikill

This is the new window I am working on. Will add some tid bits into the case, but have to get them worked out. The bay cover on the right will be going away and replaced with another idea, and may get something done to the PSU cover.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If they are silver(top) and blue(bottom) then yes I guess those are cable clamps. They look like some sort of tubing extension.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Those are the longest runs of the tubing. Just added reinforcement...for what you might ask, just cause....lol


----------



## Frontside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Awesome.


Thanks. Hope i didn't offend anyone in EK by replacing the stock badge


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If they are silver(top) and blue(bottom) then yes I guess those are cable clamps. They look like some sort of tubing extension.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those are the longest runs of the tubing. Just added reinforcement...for what you might ask, just cause....lol
Click to expand...

You did have me wondering, but that doesn't affect how much your build is inspiring mine.









~Ceadder


----------



## MegaTheJohny

hey boys..here is my system... currently loop testing. So far no leeks


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> hey boys..here is my system... currently loop testing. So far no leeks


looking good


----------



## MegaTheJohny

well it's my first build ever..so yeah.. next build I can focus more on aesthetics


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> well it's my first build ever..so yeah.. next build I can focus more on aesthetics


You did fine. Just change the Noctuas.

TCO


----------



## pathfindercod

Hey fellas - Can you tell me the EK Titan X backplates will work with the stock reference cooler? Like the stock screws etc?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Hey fellas - Can you tell me the EK Titan X backplates will work with the stock reference cooler? Like the stock screws etc?


At least not with the stock screws. Since the Titan X doesn't come with a backplate, the stock screws wouldn't be long enough and also the EK backplate want countersunk screws.


----------



## Reaper28

Just a random question, how come everybody here chose EK blocks aside from performance and obvious community support?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Just a random question, how come everybody here chose EK blocks aside from performance and obvious community support?


Aesthetics based on my personal preferences. Product familiarity within the community on it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Just a random question, how come everybody here chose EK blocks aside from performance and obvious community support?


It starts with the GPU. If you want a full cover block, either EK or Bitspower have you what you need.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Just a random question, how come everybody here chose EK blocks aside from performance and obvious community support?
> 
> 
> 
> It starts with the GPU. If you want a full cover block, either EK or Bitspower have you what you need.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

This. Although I went with Thermospheres due to lack of availability(out of date GPUs), I likely would've gone with EK due to the look and performance of their blocks.

Koolance and BP are the only other options. I think they are okay, but I like to keep things simple by going with one brand rather than multiple brands smattered around in my builds.









~Ceadder


----------



## Malik

soon...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This. Although I went with Thermospheres due to lack of availability(out of date GPUs), I likely would've gone with EK due to the look and performance of their blocks.
> 
> Koolance and BP are the only other options. I think they are okay, but I like to keep things simple by *going with one brand rather than multiple brands* smattered around in my builds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


This


----------



## Buehlar

Hey guys, question here with regards to my DDC pump problems.

This is my first time using a DDC variant. I used D5's in my other builds and they're still going strong.

Anyway, I just bought following pump combo and heatsink accessory last month for my current build.

EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM

EK-DDC Heatsink Housing - Nickel

The loop is filled and completely bled of air. The pump is running at full speed (the system not running while leak testing loop so It's not plugged into a MB PWM header).
Pump sounds unstable as if it's randomly speeding up and down while listening to the pump noise the pitch is constantly changing.

Also when I turn the pump off and back on, sometimes it starts right away, other times I can hear the pump attempt to start 3 times before it finally spins up.
Randomly, it'll fail to start at all after 3 attempts. and after I reset the PSU it'll finally start up.
Same symptoms using a different PSU.

I let the pump running all night and still with the same noise pitch and start up symptoms.
With all my D5 pumps the noise pitch never changes, just hums along whisper quiet.

Bad pump?
Should I just RMA?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Hey guys, question here with regards to my DDC pump problems.
> 
> This is my first time using a DDC variant. I used D5's in my other builds and they're still going strong.
> 
> Anyway, I just bought following pump combo and heatsink accessory last month for my current build.
> 
> EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM
> 
> EK-DDC Heatsink Housing - Nickel
> 
> The loop is filled and completely bled of air. The pump is running at full speed (the system not running while leak testing loop so It's not plugged into a MB PWM header).
> Pump sounds unstable as if it's randomly speeding up and down while listening to the pump noise the pitch is constantly changing.
> 
> Also when I turn the pump off and back on, sometimes it starts right away, other times I can hear the pump attempt to start 3 times before it finally spins up.
> Randomly, it'll fail to start at all after 3 attempts. and after I reset the PSU it'll finally start up.
> Same symptoms using a different PSU.
> 
> I let the pump running all night and still with the same noise pitch and start up symptoms.
> With all my D5 pumps the noise pitch never changes, just hums along whisper quiet.
> 
> Bad pump?
> Should I just RMA?


How many blocks and rads? It could be struggling to push the fluid through the components?

TCO


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Hey guys, question here with regards to my DDC pump problems.
> 
> This is my first time using a DDC variant. I used D5's in my other builds and they're still going strong.
> 
> Anyway, I just bought following pump combo and heatsink accessory last month for my current build.
> 
> EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM
> 
> EK-DDC Heatsink Housing - Nickel
> 
> The loop is filled and completely bled of air. The pump is running at full speed (the system not running while leak testing loop so It's not plugged into a MB PWM header).
> Pump sounds unstable as if it's randomly speeding up and down while listening to the pump noise the pitch is constantly changing.
> 
> Also when I turn the pump off and back on, sometimes it starts right away, other times I can hear the pump attempt to start 3 times before it finally spins up.
> Randomly, it'll fail to start at all after 3 attempts. and after I reset the PSU it'll finally start up.
> Same symptoms using a different PSU.
> 
> I let the pump running all night and still with the same noise pitch and start up symptoms.
> With all my D5 pumps the noise pitch never changes, just hums along whisper quiet.
> 
> Bad pump?
> Should I just RMA?
> 
> 
> 
> How many blocks and rads? It could be struggling to push the fluid through the components?
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Pump has massive head pressure on res return. Just 2 rads and 2 blocks.

2x XSPC AX240
EK-Supremacy EVO
EK-FC970


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Pump has massive head pressure on res return. Just 2 rads and 2 blocks.
> 
> 2x XSPC AX240
> EK-Supremacy EVO
> EK-FC970


That DDC pump will handle that loop no problem.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Pump has massive head pressure on res return. Just 2 rads and 2 blocks.
> 
> 2x XSPC AX240
> EK-Supremacy EVO
> EK-FC970
> 
> 
> 
> That DDC pump will handle that loop no problem.
Click to expand...

I'm sure it will, but that wasn't my concern.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> I'm sure it will, but that wasn't my concern.


Sounds like there might still be some air in the loop to me, My DDC 3.2 doesnt make any sounds like that. The only time I could hear it at max RPM was when I was still working air out of the system.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> I'm sure it will, but that wasn't my concern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like there might still be some air in the loop to me, My DDC 3.2 doesnt make any sounds like that. The only time I could hear it at max RPM was when I was still working air out of the system.
Click to expand...

Nope, bleed of all air, not a bubble in sight. I know what air sounds like and that not the issue.

Does your pump sound as if it holds at a steady speed when running at max (with the PWM unplugged)?

Mine is constantly fluctuating. It's doesn't fluctuate at a steady rhythm either, it's all over the place almost as if randomly loosing power for fractions of a second.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Nope, bleed of all air, not a bubble in sight. I know what air sounds like and that not the issue.
> 
> Does your pump sound as if it holds at a steady speed when running at max (with the PWM unplugged)?
> 
> Mine is constantly fluctuating. It's doesn't fluctuate at a steady rhythm either, it's all over the place almost as if randomly loosing power for fractions of a second.


Feed 5v to them pmw signal on the pump this will tell it to run at full speed and if it still making strange noise maybe better RMA it


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Feed 5v to them pmw signal on the pump this will tell it to run at full speed and if it still making strange noise maybe better RMA it


Plugging it into a non pwm 4 pin on the mobo would give it the 5v 100% signal and he would have a way to see the RPM of the pump on that fan header.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Nope, bleed of all air, not a bubble in sight. I know what air sounds like and that not the issue.
> 
> *Does your pump sound as if it holds at a steady speed when running at max (with the PWM unplugged)?*
> 
> Mine is constantly fluctuating. It's doesn't fluctuate at a steady rhythm either, it's all over the place almost as if randomly loosing power for fractions of a second.


My pump does not behave that way with the fan header disconnected. I am not certain of the RPM with it not connected but my pump is very quite even at full tilt anyway. it is only mounted to dense foam and I cannot hear it at all unless I open my case and put me ear close.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Nope, bleed of all air, not a bubble in sight. I know what air sounds like and that not the issue.
> 
> Does your pump sound as if it holds at a steady speed when running at max (with the PWM unplugged)?
> 
> Mine is constantly fluctuating. It's doesn't fluctuate at a steady rhythm either, it's all over the place almost as if randomly loosing power for fractions of a second.
> 
> 
> 
> Feed 5v to them pmw signal on the pump this will tell it to run at full speed and if it still making strange noise maybe better RMA it
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I've been wondering...if the pumps erratic behavior was due to the lack of a PWM input but I'm not quite ready to fire up the system just yet to get a PWM signal.
Will definitely give this a shot.

Thanks for the useful tip!







+rep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Feed 5v to them pmw signal on the pump this will tell it to run at full speed and if it still making strange noise maybe better RMA it
> 
> 
> 
> Plugging it into a non pwm 4 pin on the mobo would give it the 5v 100% signal and he would have a way to see the RPM of the pump on that fan header.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Nope, bleed of all air, not a bubble in sight. I know what air sounds like and that not the issue.
> 
> *Does your pump sound as if it holds at a steady speed when running at max (with the PWM unplugged)?*
> 
> Mine is constantly fluctuating. It's doesn't fluctuate at a steady rhythm either, it's all over the place almost as if randomly loosing power for fractions of a second.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My pump does not behave that way with the fan header disconnected. I am not certain of the RPM with it not connected but my pump is very quite even at full tilt anyway. it is only mounted to dense foam and I cannot hear it at all unless I open my case and put me ear close.
Click to expand...

My MB isn't ready to be live quite yet so I have no signal, otherwise I'd done tried that. I didn't even think about the 5v tip that @seross69 suggested.

=rep for your input!


----------



## guitarhero23

Hey guys looking for a quick answer while I run some hardline tubes. I noticed I put the Supremacy on this way:



Where the holes are at a 90 degree angle from the GPU. Performance is not effected much by which way you have the block rotated right? I'm assuming not much if any but I'm getting paranoid because I just looked at 5 other s5 builds and they all did it where the two port holes are running parallel,

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Hey guys looking for a quick answer while I run some hardline tubes. I noticed I put the Supremacy on this way:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the holes are at a 90 degree angle from the GPU. Performance is not effected much by which way you have the block rotated right? I'm assuming not much if any but I'm getting paranoid because I just looked at 5 other s5 builds and they all did it where the two port holes are running parallel,
> 
> Thanks in advance! First answer = +1!


rotating the block 45 degrees like that is fine. I tested both on my rig and found no difference.

this review shows both and differences http://www.overclock.net/t/1509787/my-review-of-the-ek-supremacy-evo


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Hey guys, question here with regards to my DDC pump problems.
> 
> This is my first time using a DDC variant. I used D5's in my other builds and they're still going strong.
> 
> Anyway, I just bought following pump combo and heatsink accessory last month for my current build.
> 
> EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM
> 
> EK-DDC Heatsink Housing - Nickel
> 
> The loop is filled and completely bled of air. The pump is running at full speed (the system not running while leak testing loop so It's not plugged into a MB PWM header).
> Pump sounds unstable as if it's randomly speeding up and down while listening to the pump noise the pitch is constantly changing.
> 
> Also when I turn the pump off and back on, sometimes it starts right away, other times I can hear the pump attempt to start 3 times before it finally spins up.
> Randomly, it'll fail to start at all after 3 attempts. and after I reset the PSU it'll finally start up.
> Same symptoms using a different PSU.
> 
> I let the pump running all night and still with the same noise pitch and start up symptoms.
> With all my D5 pumps the noise pitch never changes, just hums along whisper quiet.
> 
> Bad pump?
> Should I just RMA?


Does your system have PWM controlled by temperature and If you turn on the system without the pwm of the ddc plugged in will it run at 100% for you?
Edit: Sorry http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/10100_100#post_23834555


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Does your system have PWM controlled by temperature and If you turn on the system without the pwm of the ddc plugged in will it run at 100% for you?


he was running it with just the molex connected. The mobo is not even powered up yet.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> he was running it with just the molex connected. The mobo is not even powered up yet.


Just now re-read, thanks, that's a bummer


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Hey guys, question here with regards to my DDC pump problems.
> 
> This is my first time using a DDC variant. I used D5's in my other builds and they're still going strong.
> 
> Anyway, I just bought following pump combo and heatsink accessory last month for my current build.
> 
> EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM
> 
> EK-DDC Heatsink Housing - Nickel
> 
> The loop is filled and completely bled of air. The pump is running at full speed (the system not running while leak testing loop so It's not plugged into a MB PWM header).
> Pump sounds unstable as if it's randomly speeding up and down while listening to the pump noise the pitch is constantly changing.
> 
> Also when I turn the pump off and back on, sometimes it starts right away, other times I can hear the pump attempt to start 3 times before it finally spins up.
> Randomly, it'll fail to start at all after 3 attempts. and after I reset the PSU it'll finally start up.
> Same symptoms using a different PSU.
> 
> I let the pump running all night and still with the same noise pitch and start up symptoms.
> With all my D5 pumps the noise pitch never changes, just hums along whisper quiet.
> 
> Bad pump?
> Should I just RMA?
> 
> 
> 
> Does your system have PWM controlled by temperature and If you turn on the system without the pwm of the ddc plugged in will it run at 100% for you?
Click to expand...

Yes my MB has PWM control but I was just testing the pump and loop without the PWM plugged in.
I suspect the pump should be running at 100% without a signal from MB, however the pump fluctuates and it also has trouble starting up.
When powered up, it hesitates 3 times before the propeller spins up, and in some instances it fails to spin up at all.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Yes my MB has PWM control but I was just testing the pump and loop without the PWM plugged in.
> I suspect the pump should be running at 100% without a signal from MB, however the pump fluctuates and it also has trouble starting up.
> When powered up, it hesitates 3 times before the propeller spins up, and in some instances it fails to spin up at all.


Not sure if anyone has suggested this, but make sure the psu its hooked to is putting out a constant voltage. Could be its going out.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Yes my MB has PWM control but I was just testing the pump and loop without the PWM plugged in.
> I suspect the pump should be running at 100% without a signal from MB, however the pump fluctuates and it also has trouble starting up.
> When powered up, it hesitates 3 times before the propeller spins up, and in some instances it fails to spin up at all.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if anyone has suggested this, but make sure the psu its hooked to is putting out a constant voltage. Could be its going out.
Click to expand...

I already mentioned in my OP that same thing with different PSU. That was the 1St thing I tried


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> I already mentioned in my OP that same thing with different PSU. That was the 1St thing I tried


Sorry I missed that.







You get the RMA process started?


----------



## MegaTheJohny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> From what I've read on the Asus Rog forums (can't find it right now), the manual states the CHA Fans are PWM, but in truth and fact they are not. Looks like you just proved it!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShinGoutetsu*
> 
> Interesting, I'll go check those forums now


Motherboard: Asus Rampage V Extreme
Did you get any news about this ? I have 3 PWM connectors to use. (1x pump, 2x for SilverStone fan splitter), and I don't know how/where to connect it.
Guess I will go first on CPU_FAN, second on CPU_OPT, and third one will have no PWM controll


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> Motherboard: Asus Rampage V Extreme
> Did you get any news about this ? I have 3 PWM connectors to use. (1x pump, 2x for SilverStone fan splitter), and I don't know how/where to connect it.
> Guess I will go first on CPU_FAN, second on CPU_OPT, and third one will have no PWM controll


you need some fan splitters. Or an adapter likeSwiftech 8-Way PWM Splitter with SATA Power Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IF6R4C8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_uA4ovb1JFZBJE

I ditched all my pwm fans and went with GTs and only pwm control the pump.


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

I'm looking for a mount for my DDC pump like the EK-UNI Holder DDC V2 but I can not find the dimensions anywhere for it? I have to mount it in a tight space so the mount can not be a few mm bigger than the pump itself. If it's bigger than I'll just have to make my own and paint it black. If the EK mount will fit, I'd rather just buy it.

http://s91.photobucket.com/user/Ora...F-4DE6-9B19-B2C5F3AC18DF_zpsg8gfvhrg.png.html

Here is the clearance which isn't much.


----------



## ShinGoutetsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> Motherboard: Asus Rampage V Extreme
> Did you get any news about this ? I have 3 PWM connectors to use. (1x pump, 2x for SilverStone fan splitter), and I don't know how/where to connect it.
> Guess I will go first on CPU_FAN, second on CPU_OPT, and third one will have no PWM controll


Just read through the manual again. Section 3.7 (monitor menu) shows that you can change the fan headers individually from dc to pwm


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*
> 
> I'm looking for a mount for my DDC pump like the EK-UNI Holder DDC V2 but I can not find the dimensions anywhere for it? I have to mount it in a tight space so the mount can not be a few mm bigger than the pump itself. If it's bigger than I'll just have to make my own and paint it black. If the EK mount will fit, I'd rather just buy it.


This image gives a good idea of the size in relation to the pump.



Unfortunately mounting a ddc pump that way will likely be nosey at full tilt. I have mine secured to dense foam and the foam secured to the case and it is completely inaudble unless i open the case and put my ear close to it at 4500rpm even.

My D5 vario is mounted to a rad simular to above image (in alt rig) and it is much louder than my DDC. Which we all know should be the other way around.


----------



## snef




----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is gonna look amazing in there!


----------



## Kritikill

NVM


----------



## snef

Thanks

now pics with wrap installed


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Gorgeous work there.


----------



## DNMock

So how is that 180mm Vardar fan coming along?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> now pics with wrap installed


Can we just pretend that I never said gold looks bad in a PC build?

Gold Star Award!


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Can we just pretend that I never said gold looks bad in a PC build?
> 
> Gold Star Award!


For all those times we see gold plated parts and said "who buys this"


----------



## Reaper28

Anybody using 900 series blocks?. I like pictures


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Anybody using 900 series blocks?. I like pictures


Using a 980 nickel acetal. EK-FC980 GTX-NA

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc980-gtx-acetal.html


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Anybody using 900 series blocks?. I like pictures


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have not seen much black rigid tubing. I like.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Anybody using 900 series blocks?. I like pictures


980 Classified block


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> I already mentioned in my OP that same thing with different PSU. That was the 1St thing I tried
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I missed that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You get the RMA process started?
Click to expand...

Well I have the system up and running however, 1 out of every 3 cold boots,the pump fails to start.
It doesn't matter what RPM I set the pump to.

Time to RMA.
Anyone know of an EK rep on here that may help to escalate the RMA process?


----------



## VSG

@akira749 would be the best person to contact.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> I have not seen much black rigid tubing. I like.


Thanks, wanted something a lil different.


----------



## emsj86

. For the leds for the cpu block. What kind should I get. I tried xspc and generic from frozen and ppc. Both died or dimmed or started flickering in a few weeks


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For the leds for the cpu block. What kind should I get. I tried xspc and generic from frozen and ppc. Both died or dimmed or started flickering in a few weeks


Darkside LED's


----------



## derickwm

My turn... (Not part of the contest - just a boss)









































































http://www.overclock.net/t/1552873/sponsored-project-cymric-4790k-titan-z-ek-vulture-mod


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> @akira749 would be the best person to contact.


Thanks VSG! +rep
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My turn... (Not part of the contest - just a boss)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1552873/sponsored-project-cymric-4790k-titan-z-ek-vulture-mod


Awesome work derickw


----------



## plc268

Figure I'd post my first watercooling attempt. Here's me leak testing it (no leaks). Was planning to go all black ek zmt tubing, but my 45 degree compression fittings weren't playing nice with the tubing (too much friction, couldn't get the compression ring threaded). Planning on getting 45 degree adapters instead and use the ek fittings next time I drain the loop.

There's a few other things I'd change about this particular setup, but it's up and running, and I don't feel like messing with it for a little while.


----------



## Georgey123

Spoiler: Warning Spoiler!



Spoiled content
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My turn... (Not part of the contest - just a boss)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1552873/sponsored-project-cymric-4790k-titan-z-ek-vulture-mod






Looks great Derick, I hope my Orange looks as good as that when i'm done with mine.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Well I have the system up and running however, 1 out of every 3 cold boots,the pump fails to start.
> It doesn't matter what RPM I set the pump to.
> 
> Time to RMA.
> Anyone know of an EK rep on here that may help to escalate the RMA process?


I'm the rep but unfortunately, I don't have any powers over the RMA process.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Well I have the system up and running however, 1 out of every 3 cold boots,the pump fails to start.
> It doesn't matter what RPM I set the pump to.
> 
> Time to RMA.
> Anyone know of an EK rep on here that may help to escalate the RMA process?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm the rep but unfortunately, I don't have any powers over the RMA process.
Click to expand...

Understood.









anyway I went ahead ordered another pump to get the system up and running asap.

I'll just RMA this one for a back-up or a later project!


----------



## XKaan

Hey all! I have a strange request for anyone with a PE series radiator from eK.

What is the distance from the very back or the radiator to the nearest fan screw hole? The diagram on their site has just about every measurement except that one. (Then again I am very tired and could be missing something)

See image:


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Just a random question, how come everybody here chose EK blocks aside from performance and obvious community support?


Bit late to the reply party, but when I watercool my current rig I'll be going with so due to a variety of reasons, but the biggest three are availability of blocks for custom pcb's (even if occasionally they take several months after the card's release to be available), aesthetics, and their vrm cooling performance. I also love the fact they offer a variety of terminals to connect multiple gpu's, and that you can watercool a whole system with their gear (and go as stealthed or flashy as one wants).

High quality combined with excellent customer service are really big as well (even more so since I essentially work in the service industry).


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Hey all! I have a strange request for anyone with a PE series radiator from eK.
> 
> What is the distance from the very back or the radiator to the nearest fan screw hole? The diagram on their site has just about every measurement except that one. (Then again I am very tired and could be missing something)
> 
> See image:


If that drawing is accurate and to scale, id put it at 19mm +-1. Sorry i dont have one to check on.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Hey all! I have a strange request for anyone with a PE series radiator from eK.
> 
> What is the distance from the very back or the radiator to the nearest fan screw hole? The diagram on their site has just about every measurement except that one. (Then again I am very tired and could be missing something)
> 
> See image:


21mm
from the end (screw heads that stick out a tad) to center of the nearest fan screw hole.


----------



## MegaTheJohny

Guys how do you control if Ek-D5 pump is working ?
For my system pump is so quiet, and if I touch it, I can feel little vibrations (I know it's working).
But if one day pump fails maybe , how do you recognize that ? What is the best way to check that pump is working regularly ?
Maybe this question is stupid, but I don't want to run into situation that my pump fails and I don't recognize that.


----------



## Rahldrac

I have been thinking about that myself. And since my pump is connected to the cpu fan header. I think you can put "if zero, turn of system" or something like that?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> Guys how do you control if Ek-D5 pump is working ?
> For my system pump is so quiet, and if I touch it, I can feel little vibrations (I know it's working).
> But if one day pump fails maybe , how do you recognize that ? What is the best way to check that pump is working regularly ?
> Maybe this question is stupid, but I don't want to run into situation that my pump fails and I don't recognize that.


easiest way would be to monitor the rpm of the pump via fan controller or motherboard header and software.
The vario has a speed signal plug and the PWM model has speed signal wire also - blue wire on each model I think.


----------



## MegaTheJohny

If pump fails, as soon as you switch on your system, you will get error report on screen. Since pump is connected to CPU fan header, bios will report error, but I am not sure.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I have been thinking about that myself. And since my pump is connected to the cpu fan header. I think you can put "if zero, turn of system" or something like that?


I use coretemp. Coretemp lets you set cpu shutdown temps. If my pc hits 90c cpu on any core it will shutdown. That protects pump failure to a extent.

I just setup coretemp to start with windows and then set the shutdown temps.

The same thing can be done using scripts. People use something similar when stress testing too.


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 21mm
> from the end (screw heads that stick out a tad) to center of the nearest fan screw hole.


Thank you!


----------



## akira749

Just to let everyone knows, EK-FC980 GTX Classy KPE compatibility issues!

Again, we are very sorry about that unfortunate issue.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Dropping a Pic.

TCO

Still Love the CSQ


----------



## Dagamus NM

That is super clean TCO. How long did that take to get the motherboard masked and painted? Must have taken forever.

That case looks cavernous with the uneccesary bits gutted out.


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Just to let everyone knows, EK-FC980 GTX Classy KPE compatibility issues!
> 
> Again, we are very sorry about that unfortunate issue.


Saw a few people having mounting issues. Nice to know that GPUs have there PCBs updated without a warning. Although idk the full story.

Near bought a block but thanks for the heads up


----------



## derickwm

EVGA and MSI love to do this to us... with no warning at all to us or the community.


----------



## VSG

Don't forget Gigabyte too, and they don't limit it to GPUs either.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> EVGA and MSI love to do this to us... with no warning at all to us or the community.


Quite interesting how you guys are partnered with EVGA and they still don't give you warning...


----------



## VSG

Got a big EK package today, including this thing:










It's a slightly different nickel finish compared to the Corsair Dom Plats in case anyone was wondering:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Just to let everyone knows, EK-FC980 GTX Classy KPE compatibility issues!
> 
> Again, we are very sorry about that unfortunate issue.


Well that sucks. And would explain away further demand for tighter tolerances. Tighter tolerances are not altogether an unreasonable demand but how can anyone expect a block manufacturer to follow up on that request without the help of the parts manufacturers. It simply cannot be done. It's a sad state of affairs when the manufacturers don't have an issue with the end user watercooling components, but can't nail their designs down enough for the watercooling community to do so and it's the block manufacturers who pay for this issue in the end. Simply ridonkulous.









~Ceadder


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Just to let everyone knows, EK-FC980 GTX Classy KPE compatibility issues!
> 
> Again, we are very sorry about that unfortunate issue.


Ouch. Wonder what the reasoning behind the change was, and why they didn't let their partners know.


----------



## SteezyTN

Got me a Titan X...



At that price, I couldn't resist. I only jumped on it because I had 10% off and free shipping (even NO taxes). I'm in California (US) and I'm so used to paying taxes on my hardware. TigerDirect is really the only place that doesn't charge tax in California. I'm going to use the savings I made and put it toward an EK-FC waterblock.

Question is... Which one? I previously owned two of the 780 acetal full cover blocks, but what about the nickel ones? How much better can they perform over copper?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Got me a Titan X...
> 
> 
> 
> At that price, I couldn't resist. I only jumped on it because I had 10% off and free shipping (even NO taxes). I'm in California (US) and I'm so used to paying taxes on my hardware. TigerDirect is really the only place that doesn't charge tax in California. I'm going to use the savings I made and put it toward an EK-FC waterblock.
> 
> Question is... Which one? I previously owned two of the 780 acetal full cover blocks, but what about the nickel ones? How much better can they perform over copper?


technically nickel performs worse then copper (only slightly so it's not something that will show in in this use), but there are many upsides with choosing nickel. for the most part though nickel plating is for pure looks though. The big advantage with nickel other than the looks of it in front of copper is that it doesn't tarnish as easily, thus it will stay clear for longer then copper will.

So it's all up to looks really, and the nickel plated plexi blocks seem to sell better as they have a more appealing aesthetic to most people. Which I would guess is also the reason for which EK chooses to produce many of the more niche blocks in that finish (for non reference cards and so on).


----------



## derickwm

You'll never be able to tell the difference in temps between copper and nickel due to margins of error from any other factors that could affect testing. Nickel is mostly about aesthetics, particularly because copper can tarnish as Rainmaker touched on.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> That is super clean TCO. How long did that take to get the motherboard masked and painted? Must have taken forever.
> 
> That case looks cavernous with the uneccesary bits gutted out.


TO mask and Paint wasn't too bad... couple hours?







It was the touch up paint that followed shortly after that took about 3 days







What a world we live in. Oh and yes... the case is massive.. Just filled up the GPU loop.. Not sure if I should try to pick this thing up yet.

Youtube Vids (Please Feel Free to watch some trial and error)

The Cautious One


----------



## Dagamus NM

On the topic of paint, does anybody have any recommendations on sources of House of Kolor paints?

For those using HOK paints, are we limited to their base color options are can custom colors be made while retaining the effects in the paints that HOK provide?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Got me a Titan X...
> 
> 
> 
> At that price, I couldn't resist. I only jumped on it because I had 10% off and free shipping (even NO taxes). I'm in California (US) and I'm so used to paying taxes on my hardware. TigerDirect is really the only place that doesn't charge tax in California. I'm going to use the savings I made and put it toward an EK-FC waterblock.
> 
> Question is... Which one? I previously owned two of the 780 acetal full cover blocks, but what about the nickel ones? How much better can they perform over copper?


Nice, meanwhile I paid $710 Canadian for one 980 lol. I would go with nickel but that's mostly for esthetics. I've only seen 1-2c temp difference if that from copper vs nickel blocks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> On the topic of paint, does anybody have any recommendations on sources of House of Kolor paints?
> 
> For those using HOK paints, are we limited to their base color options are can custom colors be made while retaining the effects in the paints that HOK provide?


You can get it from most any of the Automotive Paint Supply places. I worked in the business and in the small town where I started working as a parts counterman we have one there. HoC when I first started was hard to come by but they've made a name for themselves over the last 30 years so it should be about as easy as getting DuPont paints if you go to a supply store.









Ask Hanoverfist(if he's hanging round these parts) where he gets his supply because that's what he uses. He's had success with it, having been featured in two issues(mebbe more?) of CPU mag.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dagamus NM

Thank you sir. There is a listed vendor down the street. I think I am going to swing by and get an estimate on some paints.


----------



## optional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Just to let everyone knows, EK-FC980 GTX Classy KPE compatibility issues!
> 
> Again, we are very sorry about that unfortunate issue.


That's too bad.

I just ran into the same issue with the MSI Gaming 4G 970 and Gaming 100ME having been updated and not supporting the existing EK blocks







I was pretty upset, ended up buying the Hydro Copper 980 just to save myself time with school starting the following week and still not having my computer up and running.

I did email EK and Performance-PCs about the revisions, with images; but they still charged me the restocking fee... bummed about that.


----------



## Reaper28

Is anybody using F3 or F4 fans? I'm still deciding on the two for my rads


----------



## VSG

Get the F4-120 if you plan on setting up a fan curve, it has the usable range of the F3-120 and more.


----------



## SteezyTN

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-titan-x-waterblock-nickel-original-csq.html

How much better is the Nickel (Original CSQ) block for the Titan X (in terms of aesthetics)? its the same price as the Nickel Acetal. Would I still be able to see Mayhems Pastel Ice White coolant through it? And does it come with a clear link, or an acetal?


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-titan-x-waterblock-nickel-original-csq.html
> 
> How much better is the Nickel (Original CSQ) block for the Titan X (in terms of aesthetics)? its the same price as the Nickel Acetal. Would I still be able to see Mayhems Pastel Ice White coolant through it? And does it come with a clear link, or an acetal?


It looks like the link is built into the block.

@akira749 Any idea when the black Titan X backplates will be available? PPCs has it up for pre-order but doesn't mention when they'll get them, and the EK store is out of stock.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Get the F4-120 if you plan on setting up a fan curve, it has the usable range of the F3-120 and more.


I'll be using manual fan control, only thing I'm thinking about is the noise level which will probably be near 2k RPM when gaming if it will be bearable compared to 1850 seen as I'll have 5 on my Nemesis' rads


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> On the topic of paint, does anybody have any recommendations on sources of House of Kolor paints?
> 
> For those using HOK paints, are we limited to their base color options are can custom colors be made while retaining the effects in the paints that HOK provide?


I buy my HOK stuff at Coast Airbrush. This is also the place where @Hanoverfist buy is stuff too









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> @akira749 Any idea when the black Titan X backplates will be available? PPCs has it up for pre-order but doesn't mention when they'll get them, and the EK store is out of stock.


I don't have a precise ETA but it should be soon since they sell really well. PPCs might get some in it's next order if they ordered some.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Thank you, this is the second and default third vote for Coast airbrush.

Looks like that is where I will look.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I don't have a precise ETA but it should be soon since they sell really well. PPCs might get some in it's next order if they ordered some.


Ok thank you. I actually found some at NCIX. Here's a link for anyone that's interested.
http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=107168&vpn=3831109830581&manufacture=EK%20Water%20Blocks


----------



## derickwm

Hello everyone,

In relation to the 980 KPE Block: we apologize for the situation at hand. It's unfortunate that it happened this way but we have a resolution. All future water blocks will be of course modified to take into account the test pins.

*FOR CURRENT OWNERS YOU HAVE TWO OPTIONS:*

*Option 1 - Modify the EK block: *if you modify ONLY the part of the block that is obstructing the pins, your warranty from us will not be voided.

*Option 2 - Modify the EVGA PCB: *We have received official confirmation that if you cut the test pins on the 980KPE, your warranty on the card will remain intact.

We again apologize to our customers for the inconvenience and hope that this helps clear the situation up.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> In relation to the 980 KPE Block: we apologize for the situation at hand. It's unfortunate that it happened this way but we have a resolution. All future water blocks will be of course modified to take into account the test pins.
> 
> *FOR CURRENT OWNERS YOU HAVE TWO OPTIONS:*
> *Option 1 - Modify the EK block: *if you modify ONLY the part of the block that is obstructing the pins, your warranty from us will not be voided.
> 
> *Option 2 - Modify the EVGA PCB: *We have received official confirmation that if you cut the test pins on the 980KPE, your warranty on the card will remain intact.
> 
> We again apologize to our customers for the inconvenience and hope that this helps clear the situation up.


It's nice to see both companies helping the consumer instead of punishing them in a situation like this. Good job


----------



## VSG

Wow this thread has been without activity for a long time now. Time to change that! Along with the EK full nickel Supremacy Evo, there were also these in the mail:
























There were also a few other things but in due time


----------



## Jeffinslaw

180MM fans?? Very interesting!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> 180MM fans?? Very interesting!


For a "small" triple 180mm rad roundup! Not much choice to go as far as 180mm fans go, and the good Silverstone fans seem to be non voltage/PWM controlled- they come with their knob controllers so it will not be easy using them. I'll still hit up Silverstone and see if they have any recommendations but I need to wrap up a long pending case review for them first









Edit: I realized I forgot my usual cursory radiator picture


----------



## rgrwng

I just received my single 120mm Coolstream Radiator, and some paint or finish was chipped off. I shook the rad, but nothing came out. I am guessing it chipped when packaging.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For a "small" triple 180mm rad roundup! Not much choice to go as far as 180mm fans go, and the good Silverstone fans seem to be non voltage/PWM controlled- they come with their knob controllers so it will not be easy using them. I'll still hit up Silverstone and see if they have any recommendations but I need to wrap up a long pending case review for them first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I realized I forgot my usual cursory radiator picture


If that's the fins of the 180mm rads then that will help immensely in regards to the fairly low air pressure from 180mm fans (seems to be a lot of air between them). Been toying around with a 180mm scratch build for a while now and this is one of the things that concerned me a bit when I looked at the fans (They are super quiet though). Either way I'll have to finish up my current build before I can start looking for steel for such a thing, I simply don't have the time or space to do two builds at once


----------



## jeanspaulo

Hello guys, I hope someone can help me. I'm working on my rig and I just installed the MB Block, and I'd like to test it before continue the WC mount. Do you thing are there any problem to boot it up for a few seconds only with the block installed ( no Fluid running yet ) just to verify if its all working?


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hello guys, I hope someone can help me. I'm working on my rig and I just installed the MB Block, and I'd like to test it before continue the WC mount. Do you thing are there any problem to boot it up for a few seconds only with the block installed ( no Fluid running yet ) just to verify if its all working?


I wouldn't if I were you. Just drive on with the build. Would rather find a leak and fix it more so than replacing a CPU.

**Edit** I looked at what you asked again...mobo block or cpu block, in either case I would not try it. That is just me. Build it, air leak test it, fill it, jump and leak test it.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hello guys, I hope someone can help me. I'm working on my rig and I just installed the MB Block, and I'd like to test it before continue the WC mount. Do you thing are there any problem to boot it up for a few seconds only with the block installed ( no Fluid running yet ) just to verify if its all working?


Yeah, don't put yourself in that situation and risk frying things.

Your best bet is to completely remove the blocks, see how the paste ended up spreading, clean it all up and re-install it with confidence.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> I wouldn't if I were you. Just drive on with the build. Would rather find a leak and fix it more so than replacing a CPU.


Yup


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hello guys, I hope someone can help me. I'm working on my rig and I just installed the MB Block, and I'd like to test it before continue the WC mount. Do you thing are there any problem to boot it up for a few seconds only with the block installed ( no Fluid running yet ) just to verify if its all working?


Is it your cpu block, or your mobo chipset block? The chipset block may be ok, but i wouldnt do the cpu.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Is it your cpu block, or your mobo chipset block? The chipset block may be ok, but i wouldnt do the cpu.


What makes it acceptable for the chipset and not the cpu?


----------



## King4x4

Sexy Sexy 180mm gear!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> What makes it acceptable for the chipset and not the cpu?


Chip set does niot produce as much heat as a CPU!! As long as the water blocks in are on the M/B it will be no problem, even with out water basically the same as the passive blocks.. I have fired mine up with nothing on mb and no problems but I can't recommend that!!! Just make sure you have a active heatsink of some sort on CPU


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> If that's the fins of the 180mm rads then that will help immensely in regards to the fairly low air pressure from 180mm fans (seems to be a lot of air between them). Been toying around with a 180mm scratch build for a while now and this is one of the things that concerned me a bit when I looked at the fans (They are super quiet though). Either way I'll have to finish up my current build before I can start looking for steel for such a thing, I simply don't have the time or space to do two builds at once


The EK WE rads seem to be based off the same fin and core design as in their PE rads- splitter type fins, ~40 microns thick, 18-19 FPI with 2.1mm thick flattened tube channels all across a core that is ~21mm thick.


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> I wouldn't if I were you. Just drive on with the build. Would rather find a leak and fix it more so than replacing a CPU.
> 
> **Edit** I looked at what you asked again...mobo block or cpu block, in either case I would not try it. That is just me. Build it, air leak test it, fill it, jump and leak test it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Yeah, don't put yourself in that situation and risk frying things.
> 
> Your best bet is to completely remove the blocks, see how the paste ended up spreading, clean it all up and re-install it with confidence.
> Yup


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Is it your cpu block, or your mobo chipset block? The chipset block may be ok, but i wouldnt do the cpu.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> What makes it acceptable for the chipset and not the cpu?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Chip set does niot produce as much heat as a CPU!! As long as the water blocks in are on the M/B it will be no problem, even with out water basically the same as the passive blocks.. I have fired mine up with nothing on mb and no problems but I can't recommend that!!! Just make sure you have a active heatsink of some sort on CPU


Thank you guys, in fact its my Mobo Block not the CPU, If its ok I will test with an air cooler on the CPU. I'd like to test to make sure its all still working because its my first time building and I dont want to assemble everything and then for a bad lucky get that I kill any component.
I thought like the same as seross69 that the Mobo block will work just like the passive heatsink but I was not sure about that.
Another thing, I also blocked my VGAs on this case I think Its just like the CPU they produce a lot of heat to run without a cooler right?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-titan-x-waterblock-nickel-original-csq.html
> 
> How much better is the Nickel (Original CSQ) block for the Titan X (in terms of aesthetics)? its the same price as the Nickel Acetal. Would I still be able to see Mayhems Pastel Ice White coolant through it? And does it come with a clear link, or an acetal?


I love CSQ. You will be able to see right through it (After a Good Polish that is) A standard link will come with each CSQ block.




That is the Block that come with each CSQ Full Cover.

The Cautious ONe


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Thank you guys, in fact its my Mobo Block not the CPU, If its ok I will test with an air cooler on the CPU. I'd like to test to make sure its all still working because its my first time building and I dont want to assemble everything and then for a bad lucky get that I kill any component.
> I thought like the same as seross69 that the Mobo block will work just like the passive heatsink but I was not sure about that.
> Another thing, I also blocked my VGAs on this case I think Its just like the CPU they produce a lot of heat to run without a cooler right?


Do not run GPU with out water or the original fan and heat sink they produce a lot of heat also!!!! Unless it is one of the low end GPU that is made to run passive!!!!


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Thank you guys, in fact its my Mobo Block not the CPU, If its ok I will test with an air cooler on the CPU. I'd like to test to make sure its all still working because its my first time building and I dont want to assemble everything and then for a bad lucky get that I kill any component.
> I thought like the same as seross69 that the Mobo block will work just like the passive heatsink but I was not sure about that.
> Another thing, I also blocked my VGAs on this case I think Its just like the CPU they produce a lot of heat to run without a cooler right?


Always test with power only to the pump. Remove power from everywhere else. Check fittings one last time. Make sure there is always water in the res - The water will get sucked up quick. Don't forget to bleed tilt -rock- refill -repeat (air will sound like rocks running in the system). Use the molex connector for the pump and jump the PSU. Leave running for 6hrs or more. Check for leaks -Provide power to everything enjoy. Check res after a week may need a little top off. You will thank me and others if there is a leak.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I love CSQ. You will be able to see right through it (After a Good Polish that is) A standard link will come with each CSQ block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is the Block that come with each CSQ Full Cover.
> 
> The Cautious ONe


Please don't hate on me because I can't spoiler the pictures as I'm on my phone







sorry lol

I really wish I went with the CSQ block, but I went with the acetal. This will really bug me for a while. But when I think about it, the CSQ Titan x block is on backorder, and I saw that the acetal nickel block was out of stock a day after I ordered it. I'm a person who thinks that things happen for a reason, so maybe I made the right call. I was so close to calling ppcs to change the order, but I didn't.

My Titan x is being delivered on the 5th, and the block/backplate is coming the 7th. If I went with the CSQ model, no telling when they would get some in stock and be shipped.

Edit*
So these are what I ordered. This should actually match up pretty well with the color theme I have. I'm also going to be using pastel white, so they should go hand in hand with one another.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> What makes it acceptable for the chipset and not the cpu?


Only my best educated guess. The mobo components don't get nearly as hot as a cpu in a "just booting" situation, and the block is usually big enough to act as a impromptu heat sync with no water in it. I did the same thing with my video card (though i wouldn't recommend that) to make sure I didn't short anything out when i put the block and backplate on. I booted it, got to windows, and powered down.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> I just received my single 120mm Coolstream Radiator, and some paint or finish was chipped off. I shook the rad, but nothing came out. I am guessing it chipped when packaging.


You can open a ticket here (http://www.ekwb.com/support/). That chipped radiator should have been seen before packaging it.


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Always test with power only to the pump. Remove power from everywhere else. Check fittings one last time. Make sure there is always water in the res - The water will get sucked up quick. Don't forget to bleed tilt -rock- refill -repeat (air will sound like rocks running in the system). Use the molex connector for the pump and jump the PSU. Leave running for 6hrs or more. Check for leaks -Provide power to everything enjoy. Check res after a week may need a little top off. You will thank me and others if there is a leak.


For sure I'll thank you all for the help and advises. Now working on the chacis of the case ( Cosmos II ) planning the cabling and the position of the radiators and pump.


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Please don't hate on me because I can't spoiler the pictures as I'm on my phone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry lol
> 
> I really wish I went with the CSQ block, but I went with the acetal. This will really bug me for a while. But when I think about it, the CSQ Titan x block is on backorder, and I saw that the acetal nickel block was out of stock a day after I ordered it. I'm a person who thinks that things happen for a reason, so maybe I made the right call. I was so close to calling ppcs to change the order, but I didn't.
> 
> My Titan x is being delivered on the 5th, and the block/backplate is coming the 7th. If I went with the CSQ model, no telling when they would get some in stock and be shipped.
> 
> Edit*
> So these are what I ordered. This should actually match up pretty well with the color theme I have. I'm also going to be using pastel white, so they should go hand in hand with one another.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love the Acetal/Nickel block on my 980. I originally wanted Acrylic/Nickel but it wasn't a full PCB cover block like the Acetal was. I would have really loved to have a red acrylic block on my GPU as well as on my mobo/cpu block but EK doesn't make any.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Where Can you get a Replacement Gasket For the EK RVE Mosfet Block (Sits above the CPU Block at the Very Top of the Motherboard)

Can I find something like that at the local hardware Store?



Didn't realize I pinched it when I re-assembled the Block









The Cautious One

EDIT: It's actually Pinched in this photo.. never even thought to look.. UGH


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Where Can you get a Replacement Gasket For the EK RVE Mosfet Block (Sits above the CPU Block at the Very Top of the Motherboard)
> 
> Can I find something like that at the local hardware Store?
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't realize I pinched it when I re-assembled the Block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> EDIT: It's actually Pinched in this photo.. never even thought to look.. UGH


Get the measurement of the oring the diameter of oring when it makes a circle and the thickness of it and should be able to get from mcmaster carr in a couple of days


----------



## lmarklar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Where Can you get a Replacement Gasket For the EK RVE Mosfet Block (Sits above the CPU Block at the Very Top of the Motherboard)
> 
> Can I find something like that at the local hardware Store?
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't realize I pinched it when I re-assembled the Block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> EDIT: It's actually Pinched in this photo.. never even thought to look.. UGH


You can email EK and they will send you the o-ring size, then order from o-rings.com or somewhere similar, mcmaster ect. If you are looking to find one local, find a hydraulics shop that rebuilds pumps. Quite a few of those pumps have metric o-rings and it's possible they'll have your size in stock. Most local US o-ring vendors won't carry the metric sizes you'll need for an EK block though. It will either be a shop that works on equipment, or online.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lmarklar*
> 
> You can email EK and they will send you the o-ring size, then order from o-rings.com or somewhere similar, mcmaster ect. If you are looking to find one local, find a hydraulics shop that rebuilds pumps. Quite a few of those pumps have metric o-rings and it's possible they'll have your size in stock. Most local US o-ring vendors won't carry the metric sizes you'll need for an EK block though. It will either be a shop that works on equipment, or online.


Or spend sometime on fcpu and you can find the size! The site is still good for something


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Where Can you get a Replacement Gasket For the EK RVE Mosfet Block (Sits above the CPU Block at the Very Top of the Motherboard)
> 
> Can I find something like that at the local hardware Store?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't realize I pinched it when I re-assembled the Block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> EDIT: It's actually Pinched in this photo.. never even thought to look.. UGH


TCO,

Open a ticket on the EK website (http://www.ekwb.com/support/), they can give you the right size and also can probably sell one to you.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Get the measurement of the oring the diameter of oring when it makes a circle and the thickness of it and should be able to get from mcmaster carr in a couple of days


3 5/8 x 1/16th. I think this is doable in town. Going to local hardware stores! Wish me Luck.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lmarklar*
> 
> You can email EK and they will send you the o-ring size, then order from o-rings.com or somewhere similar, mcmaster ect. If you are looking to find one local, find a hydraulics shop that rebuilds pumps. Quite a few of those pumps have metric o-rings and it's possible they'll have your size in stock. Most local US o-ring vendors won't carry the metric sizes you'll need for an EK block though. It will either be a shop that works on equipment, or online.


Metric can be close enough to Standard!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Or spend sometime on fcpu and you can find the size! The site is still good for something


I looked around... Couldn't find anything.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> TCO,
> 
> Open a ticket on the EK website (http://www.ekwb.com/support/), they can give you the right size and also can probably sell one to you.


Ticket is up. Ticket Id 8998. I am going to town this morning though.

The Cautious ONe


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 3 5/8 x 1/16th. I think this is doable in town. Going to local hardware stores! Wish me Luck.
> Metric can be close enough to Standard!
> I looked around... Couldn't find anything.
> Ticket is up. Ticket Id 8998. I am going to town this morning though.
> 
> The Cautious ONe


Not sure where you are but i am in atlanta and mcmaster car had me my o-rings next day with regular shipping! The imperial might work but it is actually metric size

I found all the orings on fcpu but did not have time to find the exact one. Go to ek page and they arr under replacement parts category but can not remember what one exactly!! I am at work so cant spend a lot of time looking!!


----------



## snef

Done

just waiting for an accessories and try it in the case









all photos in my build logs
http://www.overclock.net/t/1539643/sponsored-snefs-gold-wings


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Not sure where you are but i am in atlanta and mcmaster car had me my o-rings next day with regular shipping! The imperial might work but it is actually metric size
> 
> I found all the orings on fcpu but did not have time to find the exact one. Go to ek page and they arr under replacement parts category but can not remember what one exactly!! I am at work so cant spend a lot of time looking!!


Found it Here (Matched up to the RF4 Mosfet CsQ) Page 9

60 x 1.5mm?

The Cautious One


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Found it Here (Matched up to the RF4 Mosfet CsQ) Page 9
> 
> 60 x 1.5mm?
> 
> The Cautious One


I noticed those o-rings were very tricky on the install when I swapped the top with mine. It was also the only part that leaked in my loop when I tested but I had to tighten the screws just a tad more and the leak stopped. Be sure it's nice and tight lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Not sure where you are but i am in atlanta and mcmaster car had me my o-rings next day with regular shipping! The imperial might work but it is actually metric size
> 
> I found all the orings on fcpu but did not have time to find the exact one. Go to ek page and they arr under replacement parts category but can not remember what one exactly!! I am at work so cant spend a lot of time looking!!


Have you ever had a problem with the reservoir or pump allowing air back in?

I have ruled out the Top 480mm, the bottom 240mm.. I have the Pump and Res going around in a circle Attached to each other.. and it wont hold pressure? After I sealed the mosfet there were no problems at all. I haven't leaked a drop of water from anything. But when I turn the pump off it won't hold the pressure..?

I do have the CsQ Top. Nice and tight. The 250mm Bitspower Multi option res is attached via a Male/Male 5mm Bitspower Fittting.



I actually routed the tubing past all other components to where the Pump just fills up the Top 480mm ( I blew in one port while I held the Other closed and had extreme pressure on the 480mm)

I have a tube coming from the outlet of the 480 to the Res/pump and back to the 480mm. When I turn the pump off.... Air goes from the Top of the Res to the 480mm and Drains all the fluid back in the Res from the bottom port.

TCO

( I've been doing this for over 5 hours. )


----------



## duckweedpb7

@akira749 Do you know if this narrow 2011 mounting plate will work with ASRock's new itx X99 board?


----------



## derickwm

It should work no problem. If it doesn't, feel free to quote this post for a guaranteed return.


----------



## duckweedpb7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It should work no problem. If it doesn't, feel free to quote this post for a guaranteed return.


Derick that is excellent, I appreciate the insight! Now just to land a vulture to put this board in...


----------



## Ceadderman

For a second I thought that was an AMD mounting plate.









For a second.









~Ceadder


----------



## DrexelDragon

Am I going to be able to still use the EVGA backplates that came with my 980s with the EK Waterblocks I just purchased?


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrexelDragon*
> 
> Am I going to be able to still use the EVGA backplates that came with my 980s with the EK Waterblocks I just purchased?


Guess you will find out.








Possibly, It just depends on where the screw holes line up. I would look at their website for the WB and Backplate instructions to see if they will mate up.


----------



## derickwm

You can, but you may have to buy some longer screws. I don't recall the sizes off the top of my head, EVGA forum guys have them or maybe @akira749.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrexelDragon*
> 
> Am I going to be able to still use the EVGA backplates that came with my 980s with the EK Waterblocks I just purchased?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You can, but you may have to buy some longer screws. I don't recall the sizes off the top of my head, EVGA forum guys have them or maybe @akira749.


From the top of my head, it's 6mm if the head of your screw is small enough to fit in the recessed hole or 8mm if the screw head is bigger than the recessed hole and that the screw must "sit" on the top of the backplate.


----------



## DrexelDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> From the top of my head, it's 6mm if the head of your screw is small enough to fit in the recessed hole or 8mm if the screw head is bigger than the recessed hole and that the screw must "sit" on the top of the backplate.


Thanks for the reply but I'm not exactly sure what you mean? Could you please elaborate? Thanks!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrexelDragon*
> 
> Thanks for the reply but I'm not exactly sure what you mean? Could you please elaborate? Thanks!


You asked if you could use your evga backplate with the EK waterblock. Read what Derick and Akita posted in that order.


----------



## DrexelDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> You asked if you could use your evga backplate with the EK waterblock. Read what Derick and Akita posted in that order.


Oh I see so I need to buy some screws then? Can they be any screws I can get at a department store or do they have to be from EVGA?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrexelDragon*
> 
> Oh I see so I need to buy some screws then? Can they be any screws I can get at a department store or do they have to be from EVGA?


That I don't know. You might have to ask EVGA, or Derrick or Akira might know.


----------



## rgrwng

I received my Pump/Reservoir combo today. I was able to install it, but I see there is a piece of double-sided sticky foam pad. Where does this stick to? I left the pump/res pre-connected (came in the box already put together). should I stick it to the bottom of the pump, since it looks a bit heavy in the back with the mounting plate installed under the res?

also, is it safe to mount it in the bottom of the case with Velcro? I thought of laying some in the bottom, where the drive cage was taken out. I could line the case bottom with some, then stick the hook side of the Velcro to the mounting plate. then, if I had to adjust it, I would not have to unscrew it from the case, and saves a few extra holes in my case. atm it is just sitting loose in the case.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> I received my Pump/Reservoir combo today. I was able to install it, but I see there is a piece of double-sided sticky foam pad. Where does this stick to? I left the pump/res pre-connected (came in the box already put together). should I stick it to the bottom of the pump, since it looks a bit heavy in the back with the mounting plate installed under the res?
> 
> also, is it safe to mount it in the bottom of the case with Velcro? I thought of laying some in the bottom, where the drive cage was taken out. I could line the case bottom with some, then stick the hook side of the Velcro to the mounting plate. then, if I had to adjust it, I would not have to unscrew it from the case, and saves a few extra holes in my case. atm it is just sitting loose in the case.


I'll let someone more knowledgeable help you with your question but do you have a build log? I do love X58 and that looks like an X58 mATX board! Lovely picture as well.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I'll let someone more knowledgeable help you with your question but do you have a build log? I do love X58 and that looks like an X58 mATX board! Lovely picture as well.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> I received my Pump/Reservoir combo today. I was able to install it, but I see there is a piece of double-sided sticky foam pad. Where does this stick to? I left the pump/res pre-connected (came in the box already put together). should I stick it to the bottom of the pump, since it looks a bit heavy in the back with the mounting plate installed under the res?
> 
> also, is it safe to mount it in the bottom of the case with Velcro? I thought of laying some in the bottom, where the drive cage was taken out. I could line the case bottom with some, then stick the hook side of the Velcro to the mounting plate. then, if I had to adjust it, I would not have to unscrew it from the case, and saves a few extra holes in my case. atm it is just sitting loose in the case.


Velcro will work just have to watch it if the part gets hot. The Velcro will stop sticking . I have a 24V converter for my pumps stuck to the side of my rad and it falls down from time to time.


----------



## rgrwng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I'll let someone more knowledgeable help you with your question but do you have a build log? I do love X58 and that looks like an X58 mATX board! Lovely picture as well.


I do not, actually. I never thought of doing one. This is my second multi-core system, up from a Q6600 Pentium. I have had this PC since 2008 or 2009 (CPU is dated '09). its the ASUS Rampage III Gene (mATX). I cleaned the caps on the motherboard, and some of the other capacitors with acetone and a few Q-Tips. this project is to give the x58 here a makeover, to be the dream machine I envisioned way back when I built the system. as it is getting old, I think it will make a nice showpiece, if I ever build a brand new system (I would drain it, then leave it on a shelf to admire).

I will have to look at some other options for mounting then. I have a fan installed in the empty space in the front (on the bottom, under the radiator), so maybe that will keep it cool, also, with the air going to it.





*
Also, do I have to use BOTH 4-pin molex and the 4-pin PWM to power the pump?*


----------



## Pheozero

So quick question, I was changing the insert for my Supremacy EVO and can't remember which direction the base is supposed to be at. Someone mind giving a hand? Horizontal? Vertical?


----------



## rgrwng

which socket? on mine, it was vertical, and I had to use the outer ring.

*EKWB Instructions*


----------



## Pheozero

2011-3


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> 2011-3


Horizontally


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrexelDragon*
> 
> Oh I see so I need to buy some screws then? Can they be any screws I can get at a department store or do they have to be from EVGA?


Hardware store would be fine, you jut have to find out what screws they are. I "think" EK uses 3m screws so go to the metric section of your hardware store. Also not sure if it is posted in the EK instructions for the block but different screws can have different thread "pitches" so you might find 2 different 3m screws. 3m .5 and 3m .7 where the .X is the pitch. Match that as well.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrexelDragon*
> 
> Oh I see so I need to buy some screws then? Can they be any screws I can get at a department store or do they have to be from EVGA?


Any M3 screws (of the correct length of course) will do.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> I received my Pump/Reservoir combo today. I was able to install it, but I see there is a piece of double-sided sticky foam pad. Where does this stick to? I left the pump/res pre-connected (came in the box already put together). should I stick it to the bottom of the pump, since it looks a bit heavy in the back with the mounting plate installed under the res?
> 
> also, is it safe to mount it in the bottom of the case with Velcro? I thought of laying some in the bottom, where the drive cage was taken out. I could line the case bottom with some, then stick the hook side of the Velcro to the mounting plate. then, if I had to adjust it, I would not have to unscrew it from the case, and saves a few extra holes in my case. atm it is just sitting loose in the case.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The sticky foam pad can act as a decoupler to reduce the vibration when you put the pump directly on the chassis. It's not mandatory but it can help.

You can put velcro under the metal mounting plate. I suggest industrial grade one since the cheap stuff won't hold very long.

And to answer your question about the molex and the pwm connector, yes you need to connect both. The 2-wires molex provides the power and the 2-wires pwm connector provides the rpm monitor and the pwm signal.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrexelDragon*
> 
> Oh I see so I need to buy some screws then? Can they be any screws I can get at a department store or do they have to be from EVGA?


A good place to find black metric Allen head screws if you don't want to get them online is hobby or model shops. Modern remote control cars use the same screws/bolts.
Don't know what it's like where you are but here the hardware store didn't carry the right ones.


----------



## LandonAaron

Hey guys now that I am basically through with my build I want to share it with you guys:

The loop consists of a Monsoon Series 2 D5 Dual Bay Res with a Swiftech MCP655 feeding a Swiftech MCP50x in series which then goes to the EK EVO Supremacy CPU block > EK M7G Mosfet Block > MO-RA3 420 > XSPC EX 420mm rad > 2x EK FC-290 blocks in parallel > Alphacool UT45 240mm rad > res.

Here is the money shot so to speak:



The red racing stripes are just red painters tape. Cheap and effective decor. Also featured are a bunch of case stickers and badges. I am debating pulling these.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



And here you can kind of see the D5 feeding the MCP655 by way a dual rotary 90 degree fitting, and some electrical tape mess I need to clean up on my LED's.



And here is the XSPC EX 420 rad mounted with the Koolance Bracket. The Red fans are Bgears 140mm Blasters with a max RPM of 2200. The black fans are XSPC 140's with max RPM of 1440. The BGears are on a fan controller and the XSPC are on a 3 way splitter connected to motherboard chassis fan. Both sets can be completely stopped, or set to lower RPM.


Here are my Quick Disconnets for the MO-RA3 which is mounted to the rear side panel. The Quick disconnects make it so that I don't have to completely drain the MO-RA3 when servicing the loop. It holds nearly 1.5L. Also this allows me to remove the side panel when I need to mess with the wires beneath.



Here is the hole I cut in the side panel to run the fan cables for the MO-RA3. I put a grommet in there to help protect the cables. One of the fan cables doesn't quite reach through the hole, so I am going to need to solder some wire on it to give it some more length.



Here is the MO-RA3 in action. Fitted with 9 Aerocool Dead Silence 140mm fans. 1500 RPM. These are very quite fans with some pretty aggressive styling.



Here is the front of the case. Notice all the little knobs on the sides. These are my fan controllers. These are the fan controllers I used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-Computer-Case-CPU-HDD-4-Channel-Fan-LED-Speed-Controller-Control-Cooling-/171556340828?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27f18e045c. Very cheap at only $8 a pop. Though I had to make extensive modifications to make them fit. Basically removed the PCB board, put liquid electrical tape over the blue LED's, cut the black covers out of their original housing, and drilled some holes in the covers for the knobs then wedged the whole thing in those little gaps on the side of the case and rand the wires around the front intake fans.

The two on the left and the one on the bottom right have their top 3 channels connected to the MO-RA3's 9 fans, and the bottom channel of each is connected to the Red fans on the XSPC 420 rad. Also all three of these controllers are connected to push button toggle switch, so that power can be cut to all of these fans completley. The Top right controller is always on, and controls the fan on the backside of the motherboard tray blowing across the VRM's mounting plate heatsinks, and the small radio shack fan in the PCI slots, which is left over from when my cards where air cooled and needs to be removed.



Here is the push button toggle switch which can cut power to all of the MO-RA3 fans, the push fans on the XSPC Rad, the top 200mm exhaust fan, and the D5 pump. I basically keep all of that turned off for silence unless I am gaming. Leaving just the MCP350x running at low speed via PWM through the CPU header, and just one set of fans running on the XSPC 420 rad, and 240 alphacool rad for regular non gaming non benchmark use.

These toggle switches can be purchased in a variety of color and sizes for cheap on Ebay. Depending on how you wire them the light can be always on or turn on and off with the on and off position. I wired it to a male and female molex plug so that I can stack many devices onto it down stream from the PSU and anything after the switch will be controlled by it.

I cut this hole, and the grommeted hole in the side panel with a dremmel and the dremmel's circle cutting attachment. The bit isn't really made for cutting metal, but on thin metal like this it works well enough. Unfortunately I didnt' have it tightened down enough and it came loose and started to cut outside of the circle when doing this hole, as you can see in the pic.



And here is my computer while working on it. I thought this poker table was going to buckle under the weight.



This is all housed in an Antec 1100 which was never intended for watercooling. The only real spot to mount a rad is for a 120mm rad in the rear exhaust. Its kind of a small case and a bit of a challenge to work with, but I am really happy with how it all came together. The only mod not mentioned already is replacing the side window with a single piece window with no fan mounts. The orginal window has two 120mm fan mounts in the side of it. Maybe I should have just got a new case when I went to watercooling, but the challenge of this case has made it kind of fun, and I don't mind external rads at all. It gives it a more aggressive appearance in my opinion.

Thanks for checking it out. Suggestions and comments welcome!


----------



## VSG

For those who don't frequent the EK forum here:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Two new 120mm Vardars coming very soon - All Black- and All White F4-120ER. ER stands for Extended Range (500-2200rpm).
> 
> Here's a sneak peak


----------



## Vintage

Saw those on FB. Looks amazing!


----------



## superericla

Those Vardar fans are looking great! If you guys made some in a 140mm variety, I would buy at least a dozen.


----------



## rgrwng

any advice on creating a drainage outlet? i just got my main tubes run, and have not tested it yet.

i have tubing leftover, and an EK fill port, but not sure which inlet port on the reservoir to use. i have not perma-mounted the pump/res combo, yet, so there is still time for changes. i am also thinking of shortening the inlet tube from radiator to reservoir another inch, or two (but now sure if need to, or not).



Also, will the pump behind res-can) be strong enough to push coolant _vertically_, up and over to the GPU block (as pictured)?


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> any advice on creating a drainage outlet? i just got my main tubes run, and have not tested it yet.
> 
> i have tubing leftover, and an EK fill port, but not sure which inlet port on the reservoir to use. i have not perma-mounted the pump/res combo, yet, so there is still time for changes. i am also thinking of shortening the inlet tube from radiator to reservoir another inch, or two (but now sure if need to, or not).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, will the pump behind res-can) be strong enough to push coolant _vertically_, up and over to the GPU block (as pictured)?


How come you have the outlet from the pump going to the radiator and the GPU dumping into the reservoir?


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Those Vardar fans are looking great! If you guys made some in a 140mm variety, I would buy at least a dozen.


Well they are making 140mms and will be available soon. Not in full white though (yet?).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> In MP and should be ready by the end of month hopefully!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> There's only All Black 140mm in production at the moment, aside from Furious Vardar 140mm. No White model at the moment.


----------



## rgrwng

the pump is connected behind the reservoir, and goes vertically to the GPU block. its just hard to see cause the reservoir's in the way. according to the EK instructions, the pump is the outlet, while the rad to reservoir is the inlet. pictured below, the GPU and the reservoir is not connected.



should i use the Primochill "SYS PREP"? the date says 4/8/2015...i am thinking this is an expiration date?


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> the pump is connected behind the reservoir, and goes vertically to the GPU block. its just hard to see cause the reservoir's in the way. according to the EK instructions, the pump is the outlet, while the rad to reservoir is the inlet. pictured below, the GPU and the reservoir is not connected.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> should i use the Primochill "SYS PREP"? the date says 4/8/2015...i am thinking this is an expiration date?


The reservoir is suppose to feed the pump and then the pump goes to the block then radiator then back to the reservoir. Also where is your fill port? Maybe there's a lot more to your loop that's not visible in the pictures?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> the pump is connected behind the reservoir, and goes vertically to the GPU block. its just hard to see cause the reservoir's in the way. according to the EK instructions, the pump is the outlet, while the rad to reservoir is the inlet. pictured below, the GPU and the reservoir is not connected.
> 
> 
> 
> should i use the Primochill "SYS PREP"? the date says 4/8/2015...i am thinking this is an expiration date?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*
> 
> The reservoir is suppose to feed the pump and then the pump goes to the block then radiator then back to the reservoir. Also where is your fill port? Maybe there's a lot more to your loop that's not visible in the pictures?


I have the same setup and its right, the pump in back is the outlet, and yes it will have plenty of flow to push up, mine goes straight up to my CPU with no problems. The bottom of the res is the inlet and the top port on the res can be used as the fill port, or just take the top off and fill it like I do.


----------



## rgrwng

Quote:


> The reservoir is suppose to feed the pump and then the pump goes to the block then radiator then back to the reservoir. Also where is your fill port? Maybe there's a lot more to your loop that's not visible in the pictures?


i have yet to install a fill port. i have a tube ready, but i will install it into the top of the reservoir to fill it, temporarily. i also do not have a drain port yet. once i have these two things ready, i can start to test. i am already low on space after hooking up the main routes, and the drain port will be a more permanent attachment to the pump, but cant decide where to attach it

thanks for the help, all. i hope i don't FUBAR my pc


----------



## ALT F4

Does EK not sell the X RES accessory piece to mount a DDC pump to my existing EK X-Res ?
I couldn't find the piece sold separately on their website. I see this for the dual pump but not a single.


----------



## Ceadderman

I believe that date is the mix date. Two years from that date should be the replace date. I could be wrong though so that's just my







though I don't use dye.









~Ceadder


----------



## rgrwng

HUGE PROBLEM: I can determine the source of a leak, and it's I think the DUAL block. its leaking from the same spot, on both cards (swapped positions of both GPUs to test). It is coming out of the top right contact, between the washer and the GPU (visiontek cryo) block. I do not have many spare washers, and I have only tightened the blocks hand tight, because I do not want to crush the washers. it currently does not leak from the other 3 "holes", just the one. I tried burping the gpus with some slight wiggling, but that hasn't stopped the drips. I also tried rotating the 4 washers on the dual link, to see if it was a washer issue. it is not, as I can gather.

filling it is okay, but once I start to leave the loop alone, it starts to drip from there. I just ran my first liter out, and about to open a second bottle (man, these pcs are thirsty)


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> HUGE PROBLEM: I can determine the source of a leak, and it's I think the DUAL block. its leaking from the same spot, on both cards (swapped positions of both GPUs to test). It is coming out of the top right contact, between the washer and the GPU (visiontek cryo) block. I do not have many spare washers, and I have only tightened the blocks hand tight, because I do not want to crush the washers. it currently does not leak from the other 3 "holes", just the one. I tried burping the gpus with some slight wiggling, but that hasn't stopped the drips. I also tried rotating the 4 washers on the dual link, to see if it was a washer issue. it is not, as I can gather.
> 
> filling it is okay, but once I start to leave the loop alone, it starts to drip from there. I just ran my first liter out, and about to open a second bottle (man, these pcs are thirsty)


When you say washers, are you talking about the o-rings? A picture with a circle around the leaking area would be a great help for us to resolve the issue.

1) I would look for any physical damage to the mating surface of the terminal and gpu block.
2) I would also ensure that the blocks you installed are tight with no gaps between the acrylic and nickel plates.
3) I assume you followed the directions that EK recommends? Tighten until it grabs and then 1/4 turn more? I would tighten them all down evenly then do the 1/4 turns on the middle two and then go clock wise.

*This is just my opinion on a sequence to maybe resolve your issue*


----------



## Ceadderman

I would check to see if your bridge/bocks is clear of the PCB. I had to cut my bridge in order to clear the PCB of the top card with my Dremel. I could see that it was necessary duto the angle it deflected once it was mounted to the top card. I would never have been able to connect successfully with the bottom card. I have Theromospheres 6870 Radeon HDs and a dual parallel bridge.

Not saying that this is your issue but it's at least something to check if your Orings aren't pinched and your bridge is leaking at the mounts.









~Ceadder


----------



## rgrwng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> When you say washers, are you talking about the o-rings? A picture with a circle around the leaking area would be a great help for us to resolve the issue.
> 
> 1) I would look for any physical damage to the mating surface of the terminal and gpu block.
> 2) I would also ensure that the blocks you installed are tight with no gaps between the acrylic and nickel plates.
> 3) I assume you followed the directions that EK recommends? Tighten until it grabs and then 1/4 turn more? I would tighten them all down evenly then do the 1/4 turns on the middle two and then go clock wise.
> 
> *This is just my opinion on a sequence to maybe resolve your issue*


I have not been able to sleep tonight over this, so I am responding quickly at 230 am. According to your numbered photo, it is the port between 1+3. I have not checked the cards much, yet. I will later today. Yes, the washers, i mean the O-rings. As for the screws, I turn until I cannot turn no more. I have not stripped the threads yet, I am worried that I will each time I reinstall the blocks. I am prone to over tightening and stripping screw threads, so I am following the directions as best I can, and have not stripped them yet. I did not take the blocks on the gpus apart when I got them. As soon as I got them I installed them on the cards right away. I will try to get a photo of the gpus later today for clarity.

Here is a photo of the location: link

In the photo, it is where the tool is pointing at. OneDrive does not have any fancy tools, so it is in the center of the photo, un-blurred area. It looks like the gpu block is crooked, maybe? It is strange that it would be different across the block, as the other ports do not leak.

I submitted a ticket a few hours ago on ekwb.com before I went to nap. I just signed in to ekwb, and now my ticket is no longer there in my account.

UPDATE 4:30a: could not go back to sleep this morning, so I took a closer look a the gpu blocks themselves. Both had some seepage around the mounts, where the bridge connects. I pushed down on the acrylic tops, and noticed fluid moving between them and the nickel plates. Given I had swapped gpus to troubleshoot, the bridge must have pushed water in between the acrylic and nickel plates, as it was leaking. I have not removed the nickel plates from the gpus yet, I think I should to make sure no coolant ended up directly onto the PCBs. Then I would have to dry them off, I suppose.

I put the original gpu connections on this morning, the ones that came stock, and reused the 4 O-rings, as well. As a thought, which fitting(s) would I need to link the stock connectors, if I decide to return the bridge, or RMA it (koolance DUAL VID?)? I will try to get Somme nap time or sleep again - I have to wake up and go to work in 2 hours.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> I have not been able to sleep tonight over this, so I am responding quickly at 230 am. According to your numbered photo, it is the port between 1+3. I have not checked the cards much, yet. I will later today. Yes, the washers, i mean the O-rings. As for the screws, I turn until I cannot turn no more. I have not stripped the threads yet, I am worried that I will each time I reinstall the blocks. I am prone to over tightening and stripping screw threads, so I am following the directions as best I can, and have not stripped them yet. I did not take the blocks on the gpus apart when I got them. As soon as I got them I installed them on the cards right away. I will try to get a photo of the gpus later today for clarity.
> 
> Here is a photo of the location: link
> 
> In the photo, it is where the tool is pointing at. OneDrive does not have any fancy tools, so it is in the center of the photo, un-blurred area. It looks like the gpu block is crooked, maybe? It is strange that it would be different across the block, as the other ports do not leak.
> 
> I submitted a ticket a few hours ago on ekwb.com before I went to nap. I just signed in to ekwb, and now my ticket is no longer there in my account.
> 
> UPDATE 4:30a: could not go back to sleep this morning, so I took a closer look a the gpu blocks themselves. Both had some seepage around the mounts, where the bridge connects. I pushed down on the acrylic tops, and noticed fluid moving between them and the nickel plates. Given I had swapped gpus to troubleshoot, the bridge must have pushed water in between the acrylic and nickel plates, as it was leaking. I have not removed the nickel plates from the gpus yet, I think I should to make sure no coolant ended up directly onto the PCBs. Then I would have to dry them off, I suppose.
> 
> I put the original gpu connections on this morning, the ones that came stock, and reused the 4 O-rings, as well. As a thought, which fitting(s) would I need to link the stock connectors, if I decide to return the bridge, or RMA it (koolance DUAL VID?)? I will try to get Somme nap time or sleep again - I have to wake up and go to work in 2 hours.


Once you notice a leak, you need to get the water out of your system until its addressed. Especially with those leaky ports on the GPU. Its very easy for the water to run between the backplate and the top of the card. I would pull both cards out, remove the blocks and make sure your cards are dry before you go any further. I had a heck of time getting my ports to stop leaking on my two graphics cards so I feel your paint. I have a visiontek Cryovenom too by the way. Its a nice card once you get it going by the way. Be extra careful tightening down the ports on the VisionTek and the other card too if its plexi. That plexi will crack pretty easily. I cracked mine in two places.

What I would try to do is hook up the bridge to the cards outside of the case. This will let you get a better view of what is going on. Use silicone lube/ plumbers grease on the orings which will keep them in place so they don't pop off or go crooked right as your tightening down the bridge. Once you get the bridge installed hook it up to your loop and test it outside the case to make sure there are no leaks and if there are you will be able to see better exactly where its coming from. Then put both cards back in with the bridge all as one unit already hooked up. Good luck, and try and get some sleep. Getting all sleep deprived and stressed is only going to increase the likelihood of making a mistake. Your computer will still be there when you wake up.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> I have not been able to sleep tonight over this, so I am responding quickly at 230 am. According to your numbered photo, it is the port between 1+3. I have not checked the cards much, yet. I will later today. Yes, the washers, i mean the O-rings. As for the screws, I turn until I cannot turn no more. I have not stripped the threads yet, I am worried that I will each time I reinstall the blocks. I am prone to over tightening and stripping screw threads, so I am following the directions as best I can, and have not stripped them yet. I did not take the blocks on the gpus apart when I got them. As soon as I got them I installed them on the cards right away. I will try to get a photo of the gpus later today for clarity.
> 
> Here is a photo of the location: link
> 
> In the photo, it is where the tool is pointing at. OneDrive does not have any fancy tools, so it is in the center of the photo, un-blurred area. It looks like the gpu block is crooked, maybe? It is strange that it would be different across the block, as the other ports do not leak.
> 
> I submitted a ticket a few hours ago on ekwb.com before I went to nap. I just signed in to ekwb, and now my ticket is no longer there in my account.
> 
> UPDATE 4:30a: could not go back to sleep this morning, so I took a closer look a the gpu blocks themselves. Both had some seepage around the mounts, where the bridge connects. I pushed down on the acrylic tops, and noticed fluid moving between them and the nickel plates. Given I had swapped gpus to troubleshoot, the bridge must have pushed water in between the acrylic and nickel plates, as it was leaking. I have not removed the nickel plates from the gpus yet, I think I should to make sure no coolant ended up directly onto the PCBs. Then I would have to dry them off, I suppose.
> 
> I put the original gpu connections on this morning, the ones that came stock, and reused the 4 O-rings, as well. As a thought, which fitting(s) would I need to link the stock connectors, if I decide to return the bridge, or RMA it (koolance DUAL VID?)? I will try to get Somme nap time or sleep again - I have to wake up and go to work in 2 hours.


Looking at the picture, it looks like the terminal is not sitting flush with the block. I see a gap between the terminal, the acrylic and the nickel plate; they should all be flush. I think that may be your problem, I would take a straight edge and lay it across the face of the ports on the GPU blocks and see if you have daylight. I would also say that the Koolance water blocks may be set up to take the single slot ports that came with it, so alignment of the GPU block would not be a concern of theirs as the single slot port would only make contact with the acrylic and not the plate or pcb.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Horizontally


Would this be the same way for a z97 i7 4790k 1150?


----------



## NvNw

@rgrwng If your gpu block are acrilyc ones check that the threading is not cracked, i broke one acrilyc top of a Titan WB after over tightening the screws of the dual terminal.


----------



## Dagamus NM

So on that ticket at EK it sounds like you did what I always end up doing. When you click submit ticket you are taken to a page with a page with a bunch links to common problems. You need to scroll down to the bottom of that page and click the submit ticket box again for your ticket to actually go into the system.

For those of you that strip your acrylic threads you have a few options. The hole can be filled and tapped to remake the threads. They don't need to hold a lot of torque to keep the leaks aways as long as everything sits flush with one another.

Other options are to chase the threads with a tap and cut the threads back to about 75% of their original height. If you change the pitch you can get about 90% strength but you will need different bolts matching that pitch. You can also tap to the next size up and have 100% strength. The last option and probably the least suited to this application is to drill it out and thread in a heli-coil insert.

There are probably other options. Anybody here successfully fixed a busted thread?


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Would this be the same way for a z97 i7 4790k 1150?


Yes, the EK block comes assembled and has a general purpose set up for the 1150 as lsited in the instructions. It can be installed out of the box. The only reason to open it would be to change the Jets and Inserts for optial flow on specific CPU's. If you choose to do so, ensure you put it back together correctly. I learned the hard way.

EVO installation instructions


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Yes, the EK block comes assembled and optimized for the 1150. It can be installed out of the box. The only reason to open it would be to change the Jets and Inserts. If you choose to do so, ensure you put it back together correctly. I learned the hard way.
> EVO installation instructions


It comes pre-installed with Jet Plate 1. You need Jet Plate 2 for 1150/1155. I am currently using J1+J3 in my block on delidded lapped i7-4790k. My thinking was that the extra 0.05mm thickness would provide a better mate with IHS since some of the IHS thickness had been shaved down from the lapping, and since the adhesive beneath it was removed causing it to sit a little lower.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> It comes pre-installed with Jet Plate 1. You need Jet Plate 2 for 1150/1155. I am currently using J1+J3 in my block on delidded lapped i7-4790k. My thinking was that the extra 0.05mm thickness would provide a better mate with IHS since some of the IHS thickness had been shaved down from the lapping, and since the adhesive beneath it was removed causing it to sit a little lower.


Yes, there are better plates for different sockets, but the pre-installed plate and insert will work if a person doesn't feel comfortable with opening it up to change them. I moved the optimal wording from my other post as to not create confusion.


----------



## ALT F4

Does EK not sell the X RES accessory piece to mount a DDC pump to my existing EK X-Res ?
I couldn't find the piece sold separately on their website. I see this for the dual pump but not a single.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Does EK not sell the X RES accessory piece to mount a DDC pump to my existing EK X-Res ?
> I couldn't find the piece sold separately on their website. I see this for the dual pump but not a single.


Yeah they don't make anything like that. They have the standard top and the res top, and they are very different.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah they don't make anything like that. They have the standard top and the res top, and they are very different.


What do you mean? They make it here
Are you saying they just don't sell the housing for the pump/res combo separately? Just trying to avoid spending $50 on this just to use the pump housing


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> What do you mean? They make it right here
> Are you saying they just don't sell the housing for the pump/res combo separately? Last thing I want to do is spend $50 on this just to use the pump housing


Yes, they don't sell the res top without a res. Its not an accessory piece.

They don't make anything like the dual pump adaptor you linked for single tops.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yes, they don't sell the res top without a res. Its not an accessory piece.
> 
> They don't make anything like the dual pump adaptor you linked for single tops.


Thanks Jakusonfire. Need to change my plans around now, no way I can buy two of those just to mount my ddcs







, wanted to go for a new look and possibly make more radspace in my case.


----------



## Ceadderman

You may not have to change your plans if you live in the US. Check if Performance-PCs.com has the pieces that you need.









I wish that dual DDC v2 was still available so I could complete my pump setup, but the one you need is still in the market and you're likely to find what you want from the outside sources.









~Ceadder


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You may not have to change your plans if you live in the US. Check if Performance-PCs.com has the pieces that you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish that dual DDC v2 was still available so I could complete my pump setup, but the one you need is still in the market and you're likely to find what you want from the outside sources.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I did before checking EK site, they only carry this piece.


----------



## XKaan

Hey all! Another question.

I bought the Clean Plexi block for my Titan X, and a backplate. All installed and looking great!



What part number is the clear bridge for a SINGLE card to use? All I see on PPC's are clear bridges for dual, triple or quad cards.


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey all! Another question.
> 
> I bought the Clean Plexi block for my Titan X, and a backplate. All installed and looking great!
> 
> 
> 
> What part number is the clear bridge for a SINGLE card to use? All I see on PPC's are clear bridges for dual, triple or quad cards.


Here is the single terminal.


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Here is the single terminal.


Much obliged, sir! Not sure why it wasn't coming up in searches - REPPED!


----------



## ALT F4

Can someone from EK confirm if this can be used with a single pump? From visuals it looks like I can replace the top of my ddc and use it with the EK reservoir I have from an X-Res, just want to make sure before I buy them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well I know that you can get the anti cyclone insert for EK reservoirs thru ppcs. So that would be two parts they carry.

I am pretty certain that the adapter that you linked will not work by itself as a pump top.

TBH, I think that you should call PPCs and check to make sure they can't get you all the pieces. I am reasonably sure that they can but am away from my desktop ATM so I cannot confirm this for you. All you need at this point after finding the adapter is the rest tube and a top. The EK anti cyclone not withstanding of course.









~Ceadder


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well I know that you can get the anti cyclone insert for EK reservoirs thru ppcs. So that would be two parts they carry.
> 
> I am pretty certain that the adapter that you linked will not work by itself as a pump top.
> 
> TBH, I think that you should call PPCs and check to make sure they can't get you all the pieces. I am reasonably sure that they can but am away from my desktop ATM so I cannot confirm this for you. All you need at this point after finding the adapter is the rest tube and a top. The EK anti cyclone not withstanding of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nah it's okay, I don't need any of those other parts though, posted that in my original post.

The more I look at this piece the more it seems it can be used as the pump top, it's similar to the piece on their version of the DDC X-Res just without an additional port. Hopefully it is and I can pick two of these up without having to buy the $50 version and swapping out my reservoir to them









This is what I was aiming for:


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Thanks Jakusonfire. Need to change my plans around now, no way I can buy two of those just to mount my ddcs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , wanted to go for a new look and possibly make more radspace in my case.


you could always try to get some of those and swap out the tubes, then just sell the reservoirs to get some of the cost back.


----------



## rgrwng

thanks for the replies, everybody. nice to have support when my pc is on the fritz. im dozing off here at my work desk, i hope to be able to pull the blocks off the gpus this afternoon and wipe em down if they are wet.

as for the visiontek blocks, i did check all the screws and reassembled them. i do not see any cracks around any of the screws (in the acrylic part), so i think i am doing okay. i am turning them hand tight, then going an extra quarter or less turn so they really bite. i ordered a backup pipe connector (a Koolance Dual VID Connector), so i can maybe try using the stock links, to troubleshoot farther.

thanks also for the tip about submitting tickets. i will definitely try submitting another one with this new-found knowledge.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> thanks for the replies, everybody. nice to have support when my pc is on the fritz. im dozing off here at my work desk, i hope to be able to pull the blocks off the gpus this afternoon and wipe em down if they are wet.
> 
> as for the visiontek blocks, i did check all the screws and reassembled them. i do not see any cracks around any of the screws (in the acrylic part), so i think i am doing okay. i am turning them hand tight, then going an extra quarter or less turn so they really bite. i ordered a backup pipe connector (a Koolance Dual VID Connector), so i can maybe try using the stock links, to troubleshoot farther.
> 
> thanks also for the tip about submitting tickets. i will definitely try submitting another one with this new-found knowledge.


Sometimes it something simple. Make sure all your fittings have their orings. And make sure your bridge does too. Its the bridge's o rings which are a real pain. They are jumpy suckers always trying to escape. Also one thing you can try is putting the bridge on upside down. That way if the leak is on the bottom card instead of the top card this time it will help you identify if the problem is on the bridges end or the cards.


----------



## rgrwng

the bridge is tough - as you said, the o-rings are jumpy...too jumpy, actually. i didn't think to install the bridge upside down - i swapped card positions and rotated the o-rings, instead. is there a site where i can find replacement o-rings, in case i crush them or if they break? i wish the cryo blocks had an indentation for an o-ring, as well. i think the bridge just pushes up against the block, relying on the o-rings for a good seal.

since i burned through a whole bottle of EK premix coolant last night, would it be easier to flush, fill and test with distilled water, then after testing, swap back to my second bottle of Ek coolant? i htought 2 liters of coolant was overkill - turns out my pc takes maybe 2/3rds ot 3/4ers of a liter...damn things are thirsty...


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> the bridge is tough - as you said, the o-rings are jumpy...too jumpy, actually. i didn't think to install the bridge upside down - i swapped card positions and rotated the o-rings, instead. is there a site where i can find replacement o-rings, in case i crush them or if they break? i wish the cryo blocks had an indentation for an o-ring, as well. i think the bridge just pushes up against the block, relying on the o-rings for a good seal.
> 
> since i burned through a whole bottle of EK premix coolant last night, would it be easier to flush, fill and test with distilled water, then after testing, swap back to my second bottle of Ek coolant? i htought 2 liters of coolant was overkill - turns out my pc takes maybe 2/3rds ot 3/4ers of a liter...damn things are thirsty...


Yes I would just use distilled while you are in this testing phase. I only use coolant mince I know for sure I am through messing with it for a while. You can drain, collect and reuse thr coolant in your system right now. Just drain to a bottle and put the lid on. Don't want dust landing in an open cup.


----------



## rgrwng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Yes I would just use distilled while you are in this testing phase. I only use coolant mince I know for sure I am through messing with it for a while. You can drain, collect and reuse thr coolant in your system right now. Just drain to a bottle and put the lid on. Don't want dust landing in an open cup.


ooh I wish I knew that. all the left over coolant from last night is down the drain... :[

I do not have my proper drainage yet, so push came to ignorance, and I let it drain down the sink . definitely will remember to keep as much of it as possible this next time. thanks for the heads-up.

I took the blocks off my cards, and they are very dry...I see no signs of past or current wetness. wiped with a paper towel, and reseated the blocks, so they are even again. I put the card and block on the edge, so they line up along an edge, then I tightened the screws.


----------



## VSG

For those wondering how the red plexi Evo top is:














































Note that is is near impervious to any of the standard 3mm LEDs that fit the top.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Nah it's okay, I don't need any of those other parts though, posted that in my original post.
> 
> The more I look at this piece the more it seems it can be used as the pump top, it's similar to the piece on their version of the DDC X-Res just without an additional port. Hopefully it is and I can pick two of these up without having to buy the $50 version and swapping out my reservoir to them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I was aiming for:


hmm... from the looks of it you may be able to combine the dual pump conversion top with the Bitspower DDC top. They have the necessary screw holes for that, but they might not align with the EK holes.

It's very similar to the way I have my Bitspower DDC pump/res combo assembled. http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-ddctp-bk-ddc-top-pom-version.html


----------



## guitarhero23

Officially joining the EK club now that the build is finished. You guys rock!










































Come see the rest if you like it! [Build Log]

I learned it all from you guys.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Officially joining the EK club now that the build is finished. You guys rock!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Come see the rest if you like it! [Build Log]
> 
> I learned it all from you guys.


Very nice man. I really like the bitspower fittings. I would have used them or EK's in hindsight.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

So, I discovered that one of the o rings on my 780 classified block is pinched and leaks air when I pressure test the loop. There's three different size o rings on the block. Its not the big one, and its not the two under the stainless plate. Where in the u
US be the best place to look? I doubt Lowes would have something this small. I'd like to get it local so I don't have to wait to get it shipped to me. I'm gonna try Napa Auto Parts in the morning.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For those wondering how the red plexi Evo top is:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that is is near impervious to any of the standard 3mm LEDs that fit the top.


That's the same color and clarity of my Supreme HF top. Still lights up pretty well all things considered.










~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's the same color and clarity of my Supreme HF top. Still lights up pretty well all things considered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What LEDs did you use? I have some "stock" ones provided with other blocks which did nothing.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> hmm... from the looks of it you may be able to combine the dual pump conversion top with the Bitspower DDC top. They have the necessary screw holes for that, but they might not align with the EK holes.
> 
> It's very similar to the way I have my Bitspower DDC pump/res combo assembled. http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-ddctp-bk-ddc-top-pom-version.html


Hopefully someone from EK will comment or someone who has done what I'm thinking of. From the looks of it seems I could buy the piece and just replace it with the top of my mcp35x pumps.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's the same color and clarity of my Supreme HF top. Still lights up pretty well all things considered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What LEDs did you use? I have some "stock" ones provided with other blocks which did nothing.
Click to expand...

.

I got mine prewired w/o connectors off eBay from a Chinese vendor. Just put connectors on and sleeved them. Work well for me. And since I got them in a batch of 10, I don't have to stress when the two I am using fail. Although I may ditch them completely when I put LED strips in my case.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Can someone from EK confirm if this can be used with a single pump? From visuals it looks like I can replace the top of my ddc and use it with the EK reservoir I have from an X-Res, just want to make sure before I buy them.


Hi,

You can't use this piece as a pump top.

This piece is intended to be screwed from the top and into the thread holes on the EK-XTOP Dual DDC. A normal DDC pump top is screwed from the bottom of the DDC pump into the threaded hole in the bottom of the pump top.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> You can't use this piece as a pump top.
> 
> This piece is intended to be screwed from the top and into the thread holes on the EK-XTOP Dual DDC. A normal DDC pump top is screwed from the bottom of the DDC pump into the threaded hole in the bottom of the pump top.


I see now what you mentioned. Why does EK offer the dual top piece seperate but not the single piece for this?
Thanks for the confirmation akira749, I am just going to wait a bit and get the full version and replace the reservoir with mine. Was a bit odd they had almost every accessory sold separately except for this top.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> So, I discovered that one of the o rings on my 780 classified block is pinched and leaks air when I pressure test the loop. There's three different size o rings on the block. Its not the big one, and its not the two under the stainless plate. Where in the u
> US be the best place to look? I doubt Lowes would have something this small. I'd like to get it local so I don't have to wait to get it shipped to me. I'm gonna try Napa Auto Parts in the morning.


It may still hold water. I pinched the o-ring in my mosfet block pretty hard. It slipped into the water channel and I screwed the block down full tightness, before I realized the O-ring had slipped. I simply took it apart and moved it to its correct spot and it held water fine. I did use a ton of Silicon Grease on there though cause I had sanded and polished the block which made the Oring have an even harder time sitting in its channel than normal, so maybe the silicon grease helped form the seal as well. I think its harder to seal against air than water though.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Officially joining the EK club now that the build is finished. You guys rock!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Come see the rest if you like it! [Build Log]
> 
> I learned it all from you guys.


Greate job! Too bad it seems both the EK Club and OCN Water Cooling Club have no signatures to rock







. Did you do the PSU cables yourself or where did you get them?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> .
> 
> I got mine prewired w/o connectors off eBay from a Chinese vendor. Just put connectors on and sleeved them. Work well for me. And since I got them in a batch of 10, I don't have to stress when the two I am using fail. Although I may ditch them completely when I put LED strips in my case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I am always stressed that I am going to get a short circuit from LED's. The wires tend to break so easily at the base of the LED, and I feel like its a matter of time before that happens and the positive and negative leads are right up on top of each other.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Greate job! Too bad it seems both the EK Club and OCN Water Cooling Club have no signatures to rock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Did you do the PSU cables yourself or where did you get them?


Got from ensourced.net. too tedious for me. I sleeved everything else though


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For those wondering how the red plexi Evo top is:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that is is near impervious to any of the standard 3mm LEDs that fit the top.


Wow is that the ROG Formula, and if it is what did you paint that with? It looks incredible!!!


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For those who don't frequent the EK forum here:


Thanks for posting this


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Wow is that the ROG Formula, and if it is what did you paint that with? It looks incredible!!!


Yeah it is, and just standard rattle cans (a series of timed out coats and some intentional masks/scrubs) actually. Details are in my mostly neglected build log below.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah it is, and just standard rattle cans (a series of timed out coats and some intentional masks/scrubs) actually. Details are in my mostly neglected build log below.


Thanks I just checked your build log, really nice work!! Thanks for all the quad rad reviews too! I've been really tempted to swap my Alphacool UT60 480's for the new HW Labs SR2, I know you didn't review that one but Fast Fate is getting close to reviewing a multiport version soon.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Thanks I just checked your build log, really nice work!! Thanks for all the quad rad reviews too! I've been really tempted to swap my Alphacool UT60 480's for the new HW Labs SR2, I know you didn't review that one but Fast Fate is getting close to reviewing a multiport version soon.


Who said I didn't review the SR2?


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Who said I didn't review the SR2?


Did I miss it!!!


----------



## akira749

For the ones who don't browse the EK forum









EK releases FB water block kit for GIGABYTE X99 SOC Champion


----------



## snef

why not some photos

closed to the end


----------



## derickwm

^click for build log


----------



## SteezyTN

So I recieved my red backplate and waterblock for my Titan X. However, I didn't get the screw driver mechanism to screw in the screws on the backplate. What can I do instead?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I recieved my red backplate and waterblock for my Titan X. However, I didn't get the screw driver mechanism to screw in the screws on the backplate. What can I do instead?


You double posted...









http://www.overclock.net/t/1546713/ek-fc-titan-x-the-geforce-gtx-titan-x-full-cover-water-block/110#post_23885930


----------



## salamndar

Guys, any one has any experience with EK-BAY RES Dual DDC Serial combo?


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## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For those wondering how the red plexi Evo top is


Did you only get the top or the whole block? I wanted to get the red version back when I was changing some parts out but PPCs didn't have it in stock so I went with the acetal one


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Did you only get the top or the whole block? I wanted to get the red version back when I was changing some parts out but PPCs didn't have it in stock so I went with the acetal one


Yeah, I must have lucked out since their support personnel agreed to ship a top by itself. This had nothing to do with me working with EK for reviews etc, I created a support ticket on their website to see if it is possible. They said they had one available which could be shipped and thus it happened.

Talk to PPCs and see, they have been doing all their custom blocks now so they may have some spare tops as well.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I recieved my red backplate and waterblock for my Titan X. However, I didn't get the screw driver mechanism to screw in the screws on the backplate. What can I do instead?


Submit a ticket at EKWB.com, they will send you one. It may take a little while, like 7 days. I would just go to hardware store and pick up a set metric allen keys.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Submit a ticket at EKWB.com, they will send you one. It may take a little while, like 7 days. I would just go to hardware store and pick up a set metric allen keys.


The good ol' Home Depot rent-a-tool =D Just make sure to keep that receipt so you can return it for a full refund!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Submit a ticket at EKWB.com, they will send you one. It may take a little while, like 7 days. I would just go to hardware store and pick up a set metric allen keys.


Turns out I had the exact tool for the screw in my tool kit. I spent almost an hour trying to find something and have it end up where it would work. I'm not too mad they didn't include it, but it was frustrating.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Turns out I had the exact tool for the screw in my tool kit. I spent almost an hour trying to find something and have it end up where it would work. I'm not too mad they didn't include it, but it was frustrating.


Keep track of that tool. Now that your water cooling you will find that you need it for almost everything. All my blocks, radiator screws, the screws on my res all use that size.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

So sexy


----------



## derickwm

Glad you got them before the weekend


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Yup! Super fast shipping from DHL.

Cross post from the KPE thread if anyone is curious what changes they made to make the blocks compatible with new PCB versions:


----------



## King4x4

I am seeing some new L360kits.
Vardar fans, MX block and a new ddc pump.

I am super interested in the ddc mx... Any pump curves?


----------



## Reaper28

I guess it will be at least a few weeks before the all black Vardar's get released?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I guess it will be at least a few weeks before the all black Vardar's get released?


You can get them now in the 2000rpm version only. Or you can get a lessr rpm version and paint the hubs black.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

3000 rpm, and red cable + fan header*


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You can get them now in the 2000rpm version only. Or you can get a lessr rpm version and paint the hubs black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


3000rpm*

Edit: Too late.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You can get them now in the 2000rpm version only. Or you can get a lessr rpm version and paint the hubs black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3000rpm*
> 
> Edit: Too late.
Click to expand...

Yes this as my phone clicked 2 in steada 3. My big fat thumb was not meant to type on a phone. Lol

~Ceadder


----------



## LandonAaron

How low can the 3000 rpm versions be turned down? I got 120mm AIO in my fiance's computer and this might be just perfect for it.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> How low can the 3000 rpm versions be turned down? I got 120mm AIO in my fiance's computer and this might be just perfect for it.


If this is correct:

- PWM Duty Cycle: 40-100%
Source: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-furious-vardar-ff5-120-3000rpm.html

Then 40% of 3000 which is 1200 RPM


----------



## rgrwng

*HELP!!!* are the visiontek cryo blocks still available anywhere? I finally get my water loop tested and running, but one of my matching blocks is cracked at the input crews. otherwise, I am looking to replace this block with another option.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> *HELP!!!* are the visiontek cryo blocks still available anywhere? I finally get my water loop tested and running, but one of my matching blocks is cracked at the input crews. otherwise, I am looking to replace this block with another option.


The visiontek blocks are just reference EK blocks. Any reference block should work. Does the crack touch the water channel. I got a two cracks in my block, in two different screw holes, but neither actually touches the water channel and it doesn't leak. You may not have to replace it. Also you could try sealing it with an epoxy to make sure the crack doesn't spread.

Edit: Your talking about the VisionTek Cryovenom 290 block right. Its a EK FC-290 V1 block. The main difference between it and the version 2 blocks is that the version 1 ones go all the way to the end of the card why the v2 end after the VRM area. But either one will work since its a reference card.


----------



## rgrwng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> The visiontek blocks are just reference EK blocks. Any reference block should work. Does the crack touch the water channel. I got a two cracks in my block, in two different screw holes, but neither actually touches the water channel and it doesn't leak. You may not have to replace it. Also you could try sealing it with an epoxy to make sure the crack doesn't spread.
> 
> Edit: Your talking about the VisionTek Cryovenom 290 block right. Its a EK FC-290 V1 block. The main difference between it and the version 2 blocks is that the version 1 ones go all the way to the end of the card why the v2 end after the VRM area. But either one will work since its a reference card.


thanks for the quick reply. this is my first loop, what kind of epoxy do I use? the crack is on the middle screw, and is horizontal , just touching above the gasket seal on the inside. I can see a droplet of water hanging from the crack, and it drips when the loop is functioning. would I just spread the epoxy in the teeny crack, and it should seal?

EK-AF Extender 12mm M-M G1/4 - Nickel <<< would I be able to use this to link both my GPUs, in between them?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You can get them now in the 2000rpm version only. Or you can get a lessr rpm version and paint the hubs black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


3Krpm is a little too much for even though it will be on fan control I doubt it will even touch 2200K depending on the kind of noise they produce. I prefer not to paint them, just to much work and if I make a mistake (which hasn't happened yet) removing / installing the bearing or blade then the fan is pretty much garbage if I can't fix it correctly


----------



## Ceadderman

I suggest taping the frame and painting the hub if you'd rather not tear it down to paint it properly. It's not difficult to do and you'll be fine so long as you spray in short burst coats.









~Ceadder


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> thanks for the quick reply. this is my first loop, what kind of epoxy do I use? the crack is on the middle screw, and is horizontal , just touching above the gasket seal on the inside. I can see a droplet of water hanging from the crack, and it drips when the loop is functioning. would I just spread the epoxy in the teeny crack, and it should seal?


The black rubber sealant on the left is what I used on a stripped leaky fitting port on the block. And the Epoxy on the right is what I used on the cracked plexi. But like I said the cracks in the plexi weren't actually touching the water channels on my block, but I think it would work to stop your leak. The rubber sealant isn't permanent. You can easily scrape it off. It drys into a soft black rubber. The Epoxy will dry into clear or white plastic and is permanent.

I would probably try with the Epoxy and if it is still leaking put some of the black rubber sealant on there. Just make sure the problem is fixed before you turn the hardware on. I would leak test longer than normal and check the inside of the block to make sure it doesn't leak inside or out.

Yeah I would try to fill the crack with the Epoxy, and then spread a thin layer around the crack for a good seal. Its not going to dry completely clear though so keep that in mind.


----------



## killacam7478

Hi EK Club, I had a very random question that may not have an answer, but I figured asking here would be best. I have an L240 water cooling kit from EK. I had used it previously with the compression fittings that came with the kit. For aesthetics, I decided to buy some Monsoon Free Compression Fittings. I actually hadn't changed the water in my loop since I bought it 1.5 years ago, so it was quite dirty and I took everything apart, cleaned, and reinstalled.

When I was leak testing, the tube that goes out from my CPU and into my reservoir was leaking. I first thought it was my tube not being sealed all the way, but I tried different fittings and that wasn't it. I realized it was basically the G1/4 slot where my Monsoon fitting goes into the reservoir isn't sealed all the way. It's odd though because these fittings have no leaks on any other EK part. To test it, I put the old compression fitting back on, and there was no leak. When I look at the two fittings, I can see the EK fitting's o-ring is stretched wider than the Monsoon.



Again, there might not be a clear answer for this, but anyone have any suggestions outside of buying a new reservoir? My first thought was to buy a G1/4 extension, and see if that will seal tight on one end with the reservoir, and hope that the Monsoon fitting goes in well on the other side. My goal is to be able to use the Monsoon fitting so it matches the rest of my build, because currently it looks like this, haha:



Any thoughts are appreciated!


----------



## Ceadderman

Try the oring from the old fitting on the monsoon fitting. Although in my experience Monsoons have some of the thickest seals I have encountered. That includes EK, Bitspower, Koolance, Danger Den and Enzotech.









~Ceadder


----------



## killacam7478

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try the oring from the old fitting on the monsoon fitting. Although in my experience Monsoons have some of the thickest seals I have encountered. That includes EK, Bitspower, Koolance, Danger Den and Enzotech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks for the quick reply, I think I'll try that. The EK o-ring is much larger, but it seems to cover the edges of the fitting more so hopefully this works. I'm dreading having to drain again (because I'm lazy and my fingers are all cut up from working on this yesterday), but it's worth a shot. Thanks again!


----------



## Ceadderman

No worries. If that seal is too large (i.e. stretched) you should use one of the extras if they come with them. Most of the fittings I use come with one extra but sometimes they don't. I have bin where I collect orings. So if I encounter the same kind of issue as you have. Also make sure to check that monsoon ring. It may have sustained a cut and be the source of your leak.









~Ceadder


----------



## MrPT

Now much better







Supremacy Evo full nickel polished top


----------



## Pheozero

Just saw a picture of the updated XTX (XE) rads. Do they still have ports on both sides and a drain/fill port like the original XTX?


----------



## thedoo

Small question on the EK-XRES D5, it says in the manual that the reservoir's top port should not be used for an intake. If I wanted to use the top port for an intake I would have to get the Multiport Top? Isn't that pretty much the same thing just more ports?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Small question on the EK-XRES D5, it says in the manual that the reservoir's top port should not be used for an intake. If I wanted to use the top port for an intake I would have to get the Multiport Top? Isn't that pretty much the same thing just more ports?


Exactly.

Because where's the air going to escape from when you are using the only hole to pour more water in?

But in principle, you could also just drill and tap a second hole yourself in the stock end-cap.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Just saw a picture of the updated XTX (XE) rads. Do they still have ports on both sides and a drain/fill port like the original XTX?


Where did you see these pictures? I am quite interested







.


----------



## Pheozero

[/URL]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Where did you see these pictures? I am quite interested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


In this build log:http://www.overclock.net/t/1552327/starfirst-my-first-water-cooling-build-x99-900d/0_100#post_23885871


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Exactly.
> 
> Because where's the air going to escape from when you are using the only hole to pour more water in?
> 
> But in principle, you could also just drill and tap a second hole yourself in the stock end-cap.


I actually just replaced my XSPC D5 Photon yesterday with the XRES 140 D5: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-d5/ek-xres-140-d5-acetal-original-csq.html and bought the mutliport top accessory to use the top as an inlet: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-res-x3-series/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport.html

With the Photon, I had to tilt the chassis before I could fill it because if I didn't (or if I went too quickly), it would get airlocked and the water would splash out everywhere. With the multiport top, I just open two of the ports, attach a barb to one with a tube, and pour water into a funnel connected to the tube. It's soooooo much easier than having to tilt the damn thing and go slowly plus I can use the top as an inlet which works great.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Just saw a picture of the updated XTX (XE) rads. Do they still have ports on both sides and a drain/fill port like the original XTX?


Yep ports on both sides (1 side with the extenders like the PE rads and 1 side flush with the shroud)....no 5th drain/fill/bleed port tough


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Exactly.
> 
> Because where's the air going to escape from when you are using the only hole to pour more water in?
> 
> But in principle, you could also just drill and tap a second hole yourself in the stock end-cap.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I actually just replaced my XSPC D5 Photon yesterday with the XRES 140 D5: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-d5/ek-xres-140-d5-acetal-original-csq.html and bought the mutliport top accessory to use the top as an inlet: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-res-x3-series/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport.html
> 
> With the Photon, I had to tilt the chassis before I could fill it because if I didn't (or if I went too quickly), it would get airlocked and the water would splash out everywhere. With the multiport top, I just open two of the ports, attach a barb to one with a tube, and pour water into a funnel connected to the tube. It's soooooo much easier than having to tilt the damn thing and go slowly plus I can use the top as an inlet which works great.


So If I understand correctly:

I want to go from my radiator mounted in the front to a top inlet port on my D5 XRES, as getting to the pump inlet is a little harder. I would need the Multiport, correct? So that I can use a port on top for an inlet, and then another one to let air bleed out?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Aren't you just talking about a fillport though? I want to use the top as an inlet port for my loop.
> 
> I want to go from my radiator mounted in the front to a top inlet port on my D5 XRES, as getting to the pump inlet is a little harder. I would need the Multiport, correct?


The multiport accessory is what you want. The reason being, like WiSK stated, air needs somewhere to escape so you can bleed the loop properly. There are three openings on top which you want to configure as:

1) a barb/fitting that will be used as an inlet
2) an opening to be used for initially bleeding the loop (this port will be closed off when you've finished bleeding)
3) another opening to fill the loop (what I do is attach a hose with a barb to it that has a funnel on one end so i can pour the water in with ease)

If you'd like to get an idea of why a reservoir with only 1 port on top cannot be used as an inlet, leave #2 above closed and try to fill up the reservoir. Water will most likely sit in the tube/funnel (unless you poor it very slowly then it shouldn't get stuck) and you'll have to open the port up so air can escape and the res can be filled.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> So If I understand correctly:
> 
> I want to go from my radiator mounted in the front to a top inlet port on my D5 XRES, as getting to the pump inlet is a little harder. I would need the Multiport, correct? So that I can use a port on top for an inlet, and then another one to let air bleed out?


Yes, the multiport accessory is what you need. When you're filling your loop up, one port is the inlet, one is open to let air escape (plug this up when you're done), and one is used for filling the reservoir/loop (plug this one up too after you're done). So what you need are at least two ports on top but what you want are three since it's much easier to fill a res when one extra port is open for air to escape.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killacam7478*
> 
> Hi EK Club, I had a very random question that may not have an answer, but I figured asking here would be best. I have an L240 water cooling kit from EK. I had used it previously with the compression fittings that came with the kit. For aesthetics, I decided to buy some Monsoon Free Compression Fittings. I actually hadn't changed the water in my loop since I bought it 1.5 years ago, so it was quite dirty and I took everything apart, cleaned, and reinstalled.
> 
> When I was leak testing, the tube that goes out from my CPU and into my reservoir was leaking. I first thought it was my tube not being sealed all the way, but I tried different fittings and that wasn't it. I realized it was basically the G1/4 slot where my Monsoon fitting goes into the reservoir isn't sealed all the way. It's odd though because these fittings have no leaks on any other EK part. To test it, I put the old compression fitting back on, and there was no leak. When I look at the two fittings, I can see the EK fitting's o-ring is stretched wider than the Monsoon.
> 
> 
> 
> Again, there might not be a clear answer for this, but anyone have any suggestions outside of buying a new reservoir? My first thought was to buy a G1/4 extension, and see if that will seal tight on one end with the reservoir, and hope that the Monsoon fitting goes in well on the other side. My goal is to be able to use the Monsoon fitting so it matches the rest of my build, because currently it looks like this, haha:
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts are appreciated!


If I understand you correctly the leak is in the seal that gets created between the fitting and the reservoir? if so tehn I would try some teflon tape on the fitting as it may be that the threads have been worn a bit to much to make a proper seal. If that doesn't work then you could try some glue and re-tap the reservoir.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> So If I understand correctly:
> 
> I want to go from my radiator mounted in the front to a top inlet port on my D5 XRES, as getting to the pump inlet is a little harder. I would need the Multiport, correct? So that I can use a port on top for an inlet, and then another one to let air bleed out?


you could also use another port in the loop to let the air escape. Like a spare port on a rad (just make sure it's the highest point in the loop), and just plug an end plug in it before you turn on the pump.


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> The multiport accessory is what you want. The reason being, like WiSK stated, air needs somewhere to escape so you can bleed the loop properly. There are three openings on top which you want to configure as:
> 
> 1) a barb/fitting that will be used as an inlet
> 2) an opening to be used for initially bleeding the loop (this port will be closed off when you've finished bleeding)
> 3) another opening to fill the loop (what I do is attach a hose with a barb to it that has a funnel on one end so i can pour the water in with ease)
> 
> If you'd like to get an idea of why a reservoir with only 1 port on top cannot be used as an inlet, leave #2 above closed and try to fill up the reservoir. Water will most likely sit in the tube/funnel (unless you poor it very slowly then it shouldn't get stuck) and you'll have to open the port up so air can escape and the res can be filled.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Yes, the multiport accessory is what you need. When you're filling your loop up, one port is the inlet, one is open to let air escape (plug this up when you're done), and one is used for filling the reservoir/loop (plug this one up too after you're done). So what you need are at least two ports on top but what you want are three since it's much easier to fill a res when one extra port is open for air to escape.


OK, thanks for the help


----------



## killacam7478

Thanks for the suggestion Rainmaker. I actually tried Ceadderman's suggestion of swapping o-rings, and when that didn't work, I did something odd but it works: I have both o-rings on the fitting. I know the threads on the fitting weren't warped because they were bought brand new and never used before (and the old fitting was working in the reservoir slot).

Anyway, pretty unconventional, but having both o-rings on the fitting seems to have fixed the issue. I ran it for a few hours last night with no leaks, and will check again today after work. Thanks for all the help!


----------



## Ceadderman

I use a single wrap of PTFE type on all my threads whether new or used. Especially when using parts from different manufacturers who may have different tolerances in their manufacturing processes.

~Ceadder


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killacam7478*
> 
> Hi EK Club, I had a very random question that may not have an answer, but I figured asking here would be best. I have an L240 water cooling kit from EK. I had used it previously with the compression fittings that came with the kit. For aesthetics, I decided to buy some Monsoon Free Compression Fittings. I actually hadn't changed the water in my loop since I bought it 1.5 years ago, so it was quite dirty and I took everything apart, cleaned, and reinstalled.
> 
> When I was leak testing, the tube that goes out from my CPU and into my reservoir was leaking. I first thought it was my tube not being sealed all the way, but I tried different fittings and that wasn't it. I realized it was basically the G1/4 slot where my Monsoon fitting goes into the reservoir isn't sealed all the way. It's odd though because these fittings have no leaks on any other EK part. To test it, I put the old compression fitting back on, and there was no leak. When I look at the two fittings, I can see the EK fitting's o-ring is stretched wider than the Monsoon.
> 
> 
> 
> Again, there might not be a clear answer for this, but anyone have any suggestions outside of buying a new reservoir? My first thought was to buy a G1/4 extension, and see if that will seal tight on one end with the reservoir, and hope that the Monsoon fitting goes in well on the other side. My goal is to be able to use the Monsoon fitting so it matches the rest of my build, because currently it looks like this, haha:
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts are appreciated!


are you using the extension fitting that comes with the res for the return port? The ports are recessed so other fittings won't work.

Edit: With a better look at the picture it looks as if it is there. Not sure why it would not like the monsoon fitting but maybe look at getting one of the newer, wider recess fittings ti replace the very narrow standard one.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> are you using the extension fitting that comes with the res for the return port? The ports are recessed so other fittings won't work.


This ^

It does not look like the extension is there...


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

So attempt #2 at updating my loop last night and everything is looking good so far. On Sunday I started to redo some of it since I decided to switch from compression fittings to old school barbs and also made some changes. The tubing I changed from was PrimoFlex Advanced LRT in red 7/16" 5/8" to Durelene in clear 1/2" 3/4" that I got for $32 here (for 25 feet, thanks to @Agenesis for the kickass deal!). The XSPC compression fittings were replaced with Bitspower premium plus in black diamond color (black nickel as EK calls it) and held in place with Koolance hose clamps: http://koolance.com/hose-clamp-for-od-19mm-3-4in I also decided to incorporate Koolance QDCs into the loop to make upgrading my video cards easier. Unfortunately, one of them leaked like crazy and managed to get 7 paper towels soaking wet within the first minute of my leak testing... yikes! Lesson learned though; from now on I' m going to ALWAYS do the air-tight test with my PSI gauge first to test for obvious leaks. Since my res is in the back area of the chassis, I was facing the back panel that obviously obstructed the view of all of my components so when I was filling it, I couldn't see that water was leaking everywhere. Anyway, I cleaned it all up with paper towels and went to sleep.

Next day (yesterday) I got home after work and checked to see if there was any water anywhere else and took apart my GPU block to make sure nothing got in between (nothing did). I hooked up my air tester to the loop to see if I could spot the obvious leak. At first I thought it could be the EK angled rotaries since I've heard that uneven pressure can cause issues with the o ring over time but it wasn't that - the QDCs were spewing out small droplets of air/water like crazy so I knew it had to be the QDCs. I took out all of them and retried the air tester. Still had a small PSI drop but not as severe as before. I heard air hissing from around the top reservoir port where I had the barb for the air tester plugged into and noticed that even though the barb was screwed in all the way, there were small gaps around it. I didn't hear anything from the inlet port right next to it since I used the small 5mm or so extender, that they provided with the pump/reservoir upgrade, on that port. Looked good to me so I started filling it with water and doing the leak test. Been about 12 hours since I last checked it and so far so good


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Awww spoke too soon. One of the 45 degree rotaries I reused is leaking :/


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Thais neat reminds me off willy wonkas chocolate factory or reverse smoothy machine.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Looking good ! Now if only people would take inspiration from that and stop using the mainstream boring black/red color schemes.

Great job !


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Looking good ! Now if only people would take inspiration from that and stop using the mainstream boring black/red color schemes.
> 
> Great job !


Pfft. Black/red fo' lyfe


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Pfft. Black/red fo' lyfe


+1, and besides black and red is a relatively new trend. A few years ago everything was blue.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Thais neat reminds me off willy wonkas chocolate factory or reverse smoothy machine.










Like a smoothe skittle maching









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Looking good ! Now if only people would take inspiration from that and stop using the mainstream boring black/red color schemes.
> 
> Great job !


+ 1 for this comment









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Pfft. Black/red fo' lyfe


Is all in your head









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> +1, and besides black and red is a relatively new trend. *A few years ago everything was blue*.


Really now? I've come to notice that the comments above are acutally true. The Red and black was burning a hole in my Head, a little to similar to what ecstasy does the to the brain after prolonged use









The Cautious One


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I liky soso much!! Great work!!! Or fun


----------



## Ceadderman

Actually, everything was a mishmash of colors, then it was blue or yellow or light blue. Red an black has only been a fad for 5 years. Personally I like Red an Black over blue. My NFL team wears Red.

But to each their own.









Your setup looks awesome Cautious.









~Ceadder


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

I definitely remember blue being popular in the Nehalem/Sandy Bridge/Ivy Bridge days. I think yellow was pretty popular before that, maybe orange too.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I just saw this. =P


----------



## emsj86

Had my ek suoremacy block for a few months now and I find this today. What could cause this. Over tight fittings , but wouldn't that show up before or would high cpu temps cause this while benchmarking? Would this be considered warrenty? r. And this is a few weeks ago.


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Looking good ! Now if only people would take inspiration from that and stop using the mainstream boring black/red color schemes.
> 
> Great job !


haha... love the avatar.

Life bopping MKP hard in that match xD


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Had my ek suoremacy block for a few months now and I find this today. What could cause this. Over tight fittings , but wouldn't that show up before or would high cpu temps cause this while benchmarking? Would this be considered warrenty? r. And this is a few weeks ago.


Looking at the two pictures looks like they both have cracks. Over tightening could have played a major factor in it. I doubt overclocking would, unless your water managed to get extremely hot, but I think your PC would have shut down before that.

*edit* Also, did you have your hands in that area at all? If the tubing was pushed around it could have cause stress cracks.


----------



## emsj86

I can't feel the cracks. And obviously need to get a new one my sure if it would be considered warrenty or not. But without being able to feel the cracks I wonder if icvcan run it this way for a few days until I can get a new one. I have he worest luck with pc hardware. Your right I see the cracks in the picture from a few weeks ago. Obviously it is getting worse than. As for touching it I haven't. Was switching it my psu and noticed it


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I can't feel the cracks. And obviously need to get a new one my sure if it would be considered warrenty or not. But without being able to feel the cracks I wonder if icvcan run it this way for a few days until I can get a new one. I have he worest luck with pc hardware. Your right I see the cracks in the picture from a few weeks ago. Obviously it is getting worse than. As for touching it I haven't. Was switching it my psu and noticed it


I am pretty sure they are internal and working there way out. It is entirely up to you if you want to run it or not. I probably wouldn't just because of that "what if" moment.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Had my ek suoremacy block for a few months now and I find this today. What could cause this. Over tight fittings , but wouldn't that show up before or would high cpu temps cause this while benchmarking? Would this be considered warrenty? r. And this is a few weeks ago.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Had my ek suoremacy block for a few months now and I find this today. What could cause this. Over tight fittings , but wouldn't that show up before or would high cpu temps cause this while benchmarking? Would this be considered warrenty? r. And this is a few weeks ago.


Probably over tightening the fittings. Then just add heat - The end result is above. Don't think warranty is going to cover it But does need to be replaced.


----------



## emsj86

For this build full nickel or what's in there plexi for the cpu block bc mine cracked.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I can't feel the cracks. And obviously need to get a new one my sure if it would be considered warrenty or not. But without being able to feel the cracks I wonder if icvcan run it this way for a few days until I can get a new one. I have he worest luck with pc hardware. Your right I see the cracks in the picture from a few weeks ago. Obviously it is getting worse than. As for touching it I haven't. Was switching it my psu and noticed it


You can try to open a ticket on the EK website to see how it will turn out. If they refuse to put it under warranty, you could ask them to sell you only the replacement top. This way is would cost you a bit less.


----------



## emsj86

Can yuk buy just the plexi supremacy evo upgrade kit if my problem is the plexi is cracked , rather than buying the entire block


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You can try to open a ticket on the EK website to see how it will turn out. If they refuse to put it under warranty, you could ask them to sell you only the replacement top. This way is would cost you a bit less.


This ^^ I would ask very nice!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Can yuk buy just the plexi supremacy evo upgrade kit if my problem is the plexi is cracked , rather than buying the entire block


----------



## Ceadderman

I would suggest that the stress cracks occurred when installing the collars on those fittings. Can't say that I am a fan of using tools on fittings @ all. I don't even use my tool from my Monsoons because if the collar gets crossthreaded you can unintentionally damage them and damage your blocks by extension of that. I use my fingers on my free centers and will be using my fingers on my economy hatdline fittings.

Besides by not using the tool that comes with my fittings keeps the collars looking nice since tools can slip and scratch the finish.









~Ceadder


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> I just saw this. =P


Oompa loompa doompety dee, your loop reminds meeeeeee of a Christmas tree


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Can yuk buy just the plexi supremacy evo upgrade kit if my problem is the plexi is cracked , rather than buying the entire block


Yes you can if the ticket doesn't end well for you.


----------



## XKaan

Performance PC's runs out of things at the worst possible times - lol.

Ordered almost $400 in fittings yesterday, and when I went to move my items from the wishlist to the cart everything was good tog o save for a couple 45 matte black fittings.

Who else carries EK fittings that can ship them to me by Saturday? I've gone on the site but most of the resellers in the US are PC builders, not retail part shops. There's one vendor on Amazon that has some, but shipping is 4-8 business days. D'oh!

It was nice when Frozen CPU was still in business, because if PPC's was out of something they would most certainly have it, and vice-versa.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Performance PC's runs out of things at the worst possible times - lol.
> 
> Ordered almost $400 in fittings yesterday, and when I went to move my items from the wishlist to the cart everything was good tog o save for a couple 45 matte black fittings.
> 
> Who else carries EK fittings that can ship them to me by Saturday? I've gone on the site but most of the resellers in the US are PC builders, not retail part shops. There's one vendor on Amazon that has some, but shipping is 4-8 business days. D'oh!
> 
> It was nice when Frozen CPU was still in business, because if PPC's was out of something they would most certainly have it, and vice-versa.


NCIX maybe


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> NCIX maybe


Oh, they have them - for $28 EACH! lol

http://www.ncixus.com/products/index.php?sku=106421&vpn=3831109845257&manufacture=EK%20Water%20Blocks

Or, how about a nice CPU block just north of 4 GRAND: http://www.ncixus.com/products/index.php?sku=103280&vpn=3831109800058&manufacture=EK%20Water%20Blocks

Not sure what's going on with their pricing there....

Thanks for responding to my rant, though. I think until PPC's gets them back in stock I can use a couple Bitspower ones I have leftover just to get the loop going.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Oh, they have them - for $28 EACH! lol
> 
> http://www.ncixus.com/products/index.php?sku=106421&vpn=3831109845257&manufacture=EK%20Water%20Blocks
> 
> Or, how about a nice CPU block just north of 4 GRAND: http://www.ncixus.com/products/index.php?sku=103280&vpn=3831109800058&manufacture=EK%20Water%20Blocks
> 
> Not sure what's going on with their pricing there....
> 
> Thanks for responding to my rant, though. I think until PPC's gets them back in stock I can use a couple Bitspower ones I have leftover just to get the loop going.


HA! 4k


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Performance PC's runs out of things at the worst possible times - lol.
> 
> Ordered almost $400 in fittings yesterday, and when I went to move my items from the wishlist to the cart everything was good tog o save for a couple 45 matte black fittings.
> 
> Who else carries EK fittings that can ship them to me by Saturday? I've gone on the site but most of the resellers in the US are PC builders, not retail part shops. There's one vendor on Amazon that has some, but shipping is 4-8 business days. D'oh!
> 
> It was nice when Frozen CPU was still in business, because if PPC's was out of something they would most certainly have it, and vice-versa.


Dont know what they have or dont have but

http://www.xoxide.com/

www.sidewindercomputers.com

And granted the 2 biggies are Performance PC and the now defunct Frozen CPU


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Oh, they have them - for $28 EACH! lol
> 
> http://www.ncixus.com/products/index.php?sku=106421&vpn=3831109845257&manufacture=EK%20Water%20Blocks
> 
> Or, how about a nice CPU block just north of 4 GRAND: http://www.ncixus.com/products/index.php?sku=103280&vpn=3831109800058&manufacture=EK%20Water%20Blocks
> 
> Not sure what's going on with their pricing there....
> 
> Thanks for responding to my rant, though. I think until PPC's gets them back in stock I can use a couple Bitspower ones I have leftover just to get the loop going.


Stupid prices lolll

Check on the canadian store : http://www.ncix.com/detail/ek-water-blocks-ek-af-angled-9a-106421.htm

Maybe you can buy from them instead


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would suggest that the stress cracks occurred when installing the collars on those fittings. Can't say that I am a fan of using tools on fittings @ all. I don't even use my tool from my Monsoons because if the collar gets crossthreaded you can unintentionally damage them and damage your blocks by extension of that. I use my fingers on my free centers and will be using my fingers on my economy hatdline fittings.
> 
> Besides by not using the tool that comes with my fittings keeps the collars looking nice since tools can slip and scratch the finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I see people say this all the time but unless you have some massive forearms or something I just don't see how that's always possible. I have to use tools on at least half of the fittings in my build. Its either use the wrench pre-filling or the mop post filling.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I see people say this all the time but unless you have some massive forearms or something I just don't see how that's always possible. I have to use tools on at least half of the fittings in my build. Its either use the wrench pre-filling or the mop post filling.


I must have massive forearms then because I have never used a tool to tighten any fittings. Some time I use the Tubing to turn the fitting until its tight. I just twist the tube until the fitting stops turning









The Cautious One


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I must have massive forearms then because I have never used a tool to tighten any fittings. Some time I use the Tubing to turn the fitting until its tight. I just twist the tube until the fitting stops turning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


Well I said I could you use the wrench pre filling or the mop post filling, and I know you have had your own mop post filling experience


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I see people say this all the time but unless you have some massive forearms or something I just don't see how that's always possible. I have to use tools on at least half of the fittings in my build. Its either use the wrench pre-filling or the mop post filling.


It's not about strength, it's about grip. You don't need to use force on any watercooling fittings. They are parallel threaded, so there is no benefit to have them screwed down tight. It's the o-ring that makes the seal with the block surface. With flexible tubes you can indeed find that compression fittings are difficult to unscrew after some days of use, but believe me: household rubber gloves give enough grip to undo them. No need for any kind of wrench.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would suggest that the stress cracks occurred when installing the collars on those fittings. Can't say that I am a fan of using tools on fittings @ all. I don't even use my tool from my Monsoons because if the collar gets crossthreaded you can unintentionally damage them and damage your blocks by extension of that. I use my fingers on my free centers and will be using my fingers on my economy hatdline fittings.
> 
> Besides by not using the tool that comes with my fittings keeps the collars looking nice since tools can slip and scratch the finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Not sure if you have used the Eco HL fittings before, but this is my experience with them. Although they look great, I was quite disappointed with the fact that I could not get the compression rings to sit flush leaving the fitting itself exposed. Not a big deal on some block because you can see them, but others it is plain as day.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Not sure if you have used the Eco HL fittings before, but this is my experience with them. Although they look great, I was quite disappointed with the fact that I could not get the fitting to sit flush on most of my blocks. Not a big deal on some block because you can see them, but others it is plain as day.


I have one question nice build by the way wheres your power supply?
















I take that back its a extremely nice rig .


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I have one question nice build by the way wheres your power supply?


Thank you, it is top mounted. You can see it in my build log listed in my sig,


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Well I said I could you use the wrench pre filling or the mop post filling, and I know you have had your own mop post filling experience










As the fittings were not the source of the leak..... ( The O Ring Was) It's up to you. My Fittings have never leaked.

As was said before, the Rubber O ring creates the seal, not tightening the Fittings past the point of no return.

The Cautious One


----------



## Goofy Flow

Final pictures for PARVUM MAMBA


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Flow*
> 
> Final pictures for PARVUM MAMBA


That green color looks amazing, especially in the reservoir. Cables look a little off though, otherwise freaking amazing job man


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would suggest that the stress cracks occurred when installing the collars on those fittings. Can't say that I am a fan of using tools on fittings @ all. I don't even use my tool from my Monsoons because if the collar gets crossthreaded you can unintentionally damage them and damage your blocks by extension of that. I use my fingers on my free centers and will be using my fingers on my economy hatdline fittings.
> 
> Besides by not using the tool that comes with my fittings keeps the collars looking nice since tools can slip and scratch the finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see people say this all the time but unless you have some massive forearms or something I just don't see how that's always possible. I have to use tools on at least half of the fittings in my build. Its either use the wrench pre-filling or the mop post filling.
Click to expand...

Well see this is an important thought that I had because you cannot get hamfisted when applying fittings to acrylic blocks. Otherwise stress cracks will happen and then at that point it doesn't much matter. You will have a leak. As has been pointed out the base ring is what makes the seal and the internal ring(s) guarantee a complete seal.

And as has also been pointed out, the collars can cause fittings to screw in/out at the base side of the fitting. If you have this issue happen @prefit then I would suggest using a thread lube on the base collar thread to allow that to turn freely in the collar and keep the base from overtightening to the block. Problem addressed before it becomes an issue because lack of friction @ that side of the connection cannot carry through the fitting as a whole.









You don't have to gorrilla anything the fitting can do that without your even trying to do that.









~Ceadder


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Flow*
> 
> Final pictures for PARVUM MAMBA


That looks really good, the white fittings stand out. What camera are you using?


----------



## rgrwng

just awaiting some final parts for my loop. after redesigning my loop several times, i think i found something that works.still looks a bit cluttered, and the pump outlet is in a weird spot now, so i am looking at that once i get everything else up and going. order processing seems to be my biggest delays, sadly.

also, is it okay to say, file down the edges of a PCB? with my project close to completion, i think i want to give the dual block of mine one more try. i looked at the PCBs for my cards, and the edges at the top are toothed, and look like i can file them down a bit to get them straight.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> just awaiting some final parts for my loop. after redesigning my loop several times, i think i found something that works.still looks a bit cluttered, and the pump outlet is in a weird spot now, so i am looking at that once i get everything else up and going. order processing seems to be my biggest delays, sadly.
> 
> also, is it okay to say, file down the edges of a PCB? with my project close to completion, i think i want to give the dual block of mine one more try. i looked at the PCBs for my cards, and the edges at the top are toothed, and look like i can file them down a bit to get them straight.


I would not suggest doing so. You could take the PCB down too much and expose a vital lane. If you must mod, mod acetal or even acrylic. But try to resist the temptation to mod PCB or the cooling plates.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> That looks really good, the white fittings stand out. What camera are you using?


Please only quote one picture or use a spoiler tag when quoting a large amount of pictures, please.


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Flow*
> 
> Final pictures for PARVUM MAMBA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love that green and color scheme. Reminds me of Space type Legos I had when I was a kid. Great job!

Found it! Lego Blacktron. That brings back many good memories.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Please only quote one picture or use a spoiler tag when quoting a large amount of pictures, please.


A little late seen as I already did, but fine


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes you can if the ticket doesn't end well for you.


I ended up just buying one kind of impatient and probably wouldn't have been accepted anyways. Oh well lesson learned if it happens again I'm OUT! Just kidding


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Flow*
> 
> Final pictures for PARVUM MAMBA


Hey, have you thought about adding a green LED strip to the back of the waterblock like this guy did:






http://forums.evga.com/FindPost/2331499


----------



## rgrwng

when installing the GPU waterblocks, I cannot seem to get the VRMS to make contact with the nickel plate. I used the thinner thermal pads on the VRMS, but when I look into the card with the block on, there is a gap, and the nickel plate hovers over the vrms, and thermal pads with airspace between. the block is tightened all the way down, so it cannot get any lower onto the card. the instructions said to use the thicker pads on the ram chips surrounding the GPU...should i use the same thicker pads for the VRms also? I don't have any extra thicker pads atm. maybe I can double up on thermal pads for this area, to make contact with the water block?
*
Figured it out. thanks though.*


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> when installing the GPU waterblocks, I cannot seem to get the VRMS to make contact with the nickel plate. I used the thinner thermal pads on the VRMS, but when I look into the card with the block on, there is a gap, and the nickel plate hovers over the vrms, and thermal pads with airspace between. the block is tightened all the way down, so it cannot get any lower onto the card. the instructions said to use the thicker pads on the ram chips surrounding the GPU...should i use the same thicker pads for the VRms also? I don't have any extra thicker pads atm. maybe I can double up on thermal pads for this area, to make contact with the water block?
> 
> using a reference R9 290.


This is a similar issue with the VRM's on the Strix 980 full cover. The Nickel does not extend far enough to cover them. I asked about it in the 980 Club an got a link to another site, showing that didn't. I think that consensus was that they did not need cooling. I just made sure I put some pads on the back side with back plate. I was initially going to use heat sinks, but I was a hassle trying to grind them down to mate up with the plate.

It may be possible to add two pieces together to make contact, I just don't know how it will effect the heat transfer ability. I know that Fujipoly makes some really thick stuff, may want to look into that.

Well never mind then.....but you may want to let others know what you did to fix it in case they run into the same issue.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Goofy Flow*
> 
> Final pictures for PARVUM MAMBA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love that green and color scheme. Reminds me of Space type Legos I had when I was a kid. Great job!
> 
> Found it! Lego Blacktron. That brings back many good memories.
Click to expand...

Haha one of my favorite lego sets of all time!


----------



## MrMD

Added a thermosphere block to my 970


----------



## rgrwng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> This is a similar issue with the VRM's on the Strix 980 full cover. The Nickel does not extend far enough to cover them. I asked about it in the 980 Club an got a link to another site, showing that didn't. I think that consensus was that they did not need cooling. I just made sure I put some pads on the back side with back plate. I was initially going to use heat sinks, but I was a hassle trying to grind them down to mate up with the plate.
> 
> It may be possible to add two pieces together to make contact, I just don't know how it will effect the heat transfer ability. I know that Fujipoly makes some really thick stuff, may want to look into that.
> 
> Well never mind then.....but you may want to let others know what you did to fix it in case they run into the same issue.


this may still hold informational, but in the end i had put the wrong thermal pads in the wrong spots. i think doing it wrong lifted the nickel plate higher than it should be. i have some more thermal pads on order right now. not having taken apart a GPU before, i was briefly confused about which parts were which (VRMS vs memory). the 0.5mm pads go onto the memory chips surrounding the GPU - the 1mm ones go onto the VRMs. i had swapped these when i first got these blocks 3 weeks ago. i only noticed last night because i was going to clean the GPU caps, like i did with my motherboard. assuming when i get them installed correctly, the gap i was looking at last night would be fixed.

thanks for the response.


----------



## SteezyTN

*Whoop Woop*. The TX waterblock finally arrived to PPCS. I emailed them asking if I could upgrade to a faster shipping speed, because the normal FedEx ground takes exactly one week to arrive after they ship it. Someone from PPCS called me a few minutes ago and said they were in stock, and asked if I would still like to upgrade to the faster shipping. He said it would be $8 additional, and it would be here Tuesday (compared to Friday, or next Monday). I have finals on Tuesday, so it would be perfect timing for when I get home. Gosh, I love PPCS... Even though they are making me go broke with everything I buy from them haha.


----------



## darkangelism

I will be able to join this club soon, just ordered ek full nick evo supremacy, gtx 970 wf3 full nickel front and backplate, d5 vario pump top and 250 xres


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkangelism*
> 
> I will be able to join this club soon, just ordered ek full nick evo supremacy, gtx 970 wf3 full nickel front and backplate, d5 vario pump top and 250 xres


Sounds like a fun project.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

What would cause this residue on terminal screws? This is from the item being packaged for about 4 days to ship it.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> What would cause this residue on terminal screws? This is from the item being packaged for about 4 days to ship it.


That looks like some kind of oxidation. The part may have been sitting for awhile maybe with a drop of water on it and I don't mean distilled either. I would make sure whatever part that is. That it was cleaned out before I use it.


----------



## DNMock

Ran into a snag on a build last night.

Using an old Supremacy CPU block, I discovered that I managed to lose two of the thumb screws and 3 of the springs used to press the block down onto the CPU socket.

It's just a system I'm building for up at my office out of some older parts I have lying around the house not doing anything so it doesn't need to be super pretty, so I was wondering if I could simply use some wing nuts or something comparable and just hand tighten them down or if the tension of the springs and thumb screw caps are pretty specific and necessary to getting the appropriate amount of pressure.

Basically, if the pressure holding the block down isn't exact will there be major issues aside from a few degrees less in performance (which is totally fine, CPU won't be overclocked, if anything it will be slightly under-clocked), assuming the the distribution of pressure is properly distributed.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Ran into a snag on a build last night.
> 
> Using an old Supremacy CPU block, I discovered that I managed to lose two of the thumb screws and 3 of the springs used to press the block down onto the CPU socket.
> 
> It's just a system I'm building for up at my office out of some older parts I have lying around the house not doing anything so it doesn't need to be super pretty, so I was wondering if I could simply use some wing nuts or something comparable and just hand tighten them down or if the tension of the springs and thumb screw caps are pretty specific and necessary to getting the appropriate amount of pressure.
> 
> Basically, if the pressure holding the block down isn't exact will there be major issues aside from a few degrees less in performance (which is totally fine, CPU won't be overclocked, if anything it will be slightly under-clocked), assuming the the distribution of pressure is properly distributed.


You also have the possibility of buying this : EK-Supremacy PreciseMount - Nickel


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> That looks like some kind of oxidation. The part may have been sitting for awhile maybe with a drop of water on it and I don't mean distilled either. I would make sure whatever part that is. That it was cleaned out before I use it.


it's only these 3 screws. everything else looks absolutely perfect. i'll be rinsing the blocks with distilled any way before use.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You also have the possibility of buying this : EK-Supremacy PreciseMount - Nickel


aside from aesthetics, as long as the tension is in the correct ballpark to get a decent contact, are there any real ramifications to going the wingnut/thumbscrew route? Just trying to finish the build up this weekend and gotta make a stop at Home Depot anyway, otherwise I'd totally go that route. Good to know that kit exists though.


----------



## derickwm

Took apart all my old blocks today and polished up the nickel and cleaned the coolant off the plexi  they came out great I say.


----------



## tSgt

Those 6 ram slots side-by-side









I miss that these days


----------



## niklot1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Took apart all my old blocks today and polished up the nickel and cleaned the coolant off the plexi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they came out great I say.


Pictures came out sensationally


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> aside from aesthetics, as long as the tension is in the correct ballpark to get a decent contact, are there any real ramifications to going the wingnut/thumbscrew route? Just trying to finish the build up this weekend and gotta make a stop at Home Depot anyway, otherwise I'd totally go that route. Good to know that kit exists though.


those mount springs apply the correct amount of pressure. If you use something that lets you tighten it down futher just be careful. Too tight can crack a die or damage a mobo.


----------



## SteezyTN

Can someone help me out please?
I'm in the processof saving some money for a Case Labs SMA8 and two separate loop. I'm planning on using these EK Pumps and pump tops (Combo)

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-xtop-d5-vario-acetal-incl-pump.html

However, with two pumps, how do I connect them to my CPU fan header? When I get the SMA8, I think ill just use one of these fan connector. But can I use pumps on a fan controller, or does it have to be the CPU fan header on the mobo? That's what is confusing me


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Can someone help me out please?
> I'm in the processof saving some money for a Case Labs SMA8 and two separate loop. I'm planning on using these EK Pumps and pump tops (Combo)
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-xtop-d5-vario-acetal-incl-pump.html
> 
> However, with two pumps, how do I connect them to my CPU fan header? When I get the SMA8, I think ill just use one of these fan connector. But can I use pumps on a fan controller, or does it have to be the CPU fan header on the mobo? That's what is confusing me


the only part of a d5 vario that connects to the mobo is the rpm signal. The power comes directly from psu thrpugh a molex.

You dont even have to connect the rpm signal at all. You control the speed with a dial on the pump.

Pwm pumps get controlled by the mobo or maybe fan controller but thats not a pwm pump you linked.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> the only part of a d5 vario that connects to the mobo is the rpm signal. The power comes directly from psu.


Okay. That makes SOOO MUCH more sense. Duh on me







haha. So the link I listed up would be okay to power two pumps (even 1 pump if that were the case)?

Now if I wanted to see the RPM signal, I would need a fan controller that displays RPM, correct? Am I understanding that right?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay. That makes SOOO MUCH more sense. Duh on me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha. So the link I listed up would be okay to power two pumps (even 1 pump if that were the case)?
> 
> Now if I wanted to see the RPM signal, I would need a fan controller that displays RPM, correct? Am I understanding that right?


i added a picture of the wires from a non pwm pump.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Yes just connect the fan connector to whatever can display RPM. I use aisuite fan expert for mine.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> i added a picture of the wires from a non pwm pump.
> 
> Yes just connect the fan connector to whatever can display RPM. I use aisuite fan expert for mine.


Yeah I saw that. Thanks. I was just going back to edit my last post.

So technically, if I wanted to control the RPM via software (PWM pump instead of Vario), I could just hook up the fan connector to ANY pump on the mobo and use ASUS AI Suite? If that's the case, I may as well get the PWM one so I don't have to keep taking the panel off to change it if I ever need to.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Yeah I saw that. Thanks. I was just going back to edit my last post.
> 
> So technically, if I wanted to control the RPM via software (PWM pump instead of Vario), I could just hook up the fan connector to ANY pump on the mobo and use ASUS AI Suite? If that's the case, I may as well get the PWM one so I don't have to keep taking the panel off to change it if I ever need to.


yes i love my pwm mcp35x.

Depends on which mobo you have. Most motherboards only have pwm signal available on the cpu and cpu_opt headers but you can split that up to control more if you want.

Some lga 2011 mobos have more true pwm headers.

Asus z97 mobos let use pwm from any header but the cpu fan is true pwm and the others are just tied into it internally.

Asus z87 only has cpu fan and cpu opt as pwm.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> yes i love my pwm mcp35x.
> 
> Depends on which mobo you have. Most motherboards only have pwm signal available on the cpu and cpu_opt headers but you can split that up to control more if you want.
> 
> Some lga 2011 mobos have more true pwm headers.
> 
> Asus z97 mobos let use pwm from any header but the cpu fan is true pwm and the others are just tied into it internally.


I have a Maximis VI Hero, and I never had any problems controlling 3 pin fans (wonder if the same applies for 4pin pumps).


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Asus z87 only has cpu fan and cpu opt as pwm.


If that's the case, I may go vario


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have a Maximis VI Hero, and I never had any problems controlling 3 pin fans (wonder if the same applies for 4pin pumps).


same mobo i have then









You have two pwm headers cpu_fan and cpu_opt. Just make certain it is *not* set to advanced in bios and aisuite can controll the pumps.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> same mobo i have then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have two pwm headers cpu_fan and cpu_opt. Just make certain it is *not* set to advanced in bios and aisuite can controll the pumps.


Now that makes even more sense. Looks like I'll get the PWM then









So I could hook one pump to cpu_fan and the other to CPU-opt?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Now that makes even more sense. Looks like I'll get the PWM then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I could hook one pump to cpu_fan and the other to CPU-opt?


exactly and the two molex will go to the psu directly.

That will not leave room for pwm fans though, just sayin'


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> exactly and the two molex will go to the psu directly.
> 
> That will not leave room for pwm fans though, just sayin'


I'm perfectly okay with that. With all the rad space in the SMA8, running the SP120 quiet (3pin) with or without the voltage regulator, should be more than enough. Those aren't loud even at ~1300 RPM, let alone the noise at 7v. So basically, I'm not worried about the fans, its just the pumps.

Thanks again. I really appreciate the help. Because I'm building a new loop (single) with Titan X SLI, and all PETG tubing, I'm going to wait to purchase the pumps and SMA8. I want to get some use out of this build before I go out and spend another thousand or two. So i'll probably get everything around Christmas this year. Threat myself


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Alright, time to replace the SP120s!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Alright, time to replace the SP120s!


You are Crazy...


----------



## SteezyTN

Okay guys, quick question. Around December, I'm going to pick up a Case Labs SMA8. However, I would like to purchase the radiators and pumps (2) before I get the case labs. That way I won't be spending a bunch at one time.

I decided on the EK X-Top D5 PWM acetal pumps, but how long is the warranty on those?my build probably won't be built until February, so that's a long time for them to be a paper weight.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay guys, quick question. Around December, I'm going to pick up a Case Labs SMA8. However, I would like to purchase the radiators and pumps (2) before I get the case labs. That way I won't be spending a bunch at one time.
> 
> I decided on the EK X-Top D5 PWM acetal pumps, but how long is the warranty on those?my build probably won't be built until February, so that's a long time for them to be a paper weight.


Should be 2 years


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Alright, time to replace the SP120s!


Great fans, you will love them.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay guys, quick question. Around December, I'm going to pick up a Case Labs SMA8. However, I would like to purchase the radiators and pumps (2) before I get the case labs. That way I won't be spending a bunch at one time.
> 
> I decided on the EK X-Top D5 PWM acetal pumps, but how long is the warranty on those?my build probably won't be built until February, so that's a long time for them to be a paper weight.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Should be 2 years


Yep it's 2 years.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yep it's 2 years.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Should be 2 years


Cool thanks. I have an XSPC Photon and had some issues that is now resolved... But there customer service is just plain terrible. One answer I got from flora was "I don't know. Try to tape it." Haha. Here I come EK!!!


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Cool thanks. I have an XSPC Photon and had some issues that is now resolved... But there customer service is just plain terrible. One answer I got from flora was "I don't know. Try to tape it." Haha. Here I come EK!!!


I had the same one, switched to the XRES 140 and kept my D5 pump from the photon. Also got the multiport top and I'm digging it way more. Fits in a lot more places and looks cleaner imo.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Alright, time to replace the SP120s!


Good choice


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Yes, I can't wait!


----------



## derickwm




----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Derick, thanks for your help btw!


----------



## derickwm

More:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1554554/sponsored-xforma-mbx-mkii-5k-monitor-intel-5960x-rog-rve-all-liquid-cooled/120#post_23926929


----------



## VSG

Looks like EK has released an LGA 2011-3 specific version of the Supremacy Evo: http://www.ekwb.com/news/598/19/EK-releases-new-Supremacy-EVO-X99/

Only two versions (nickel plexi and full nickel) but quite a lot less expensive than the full kit. I see that it is using the mounting from the Supremacy MX which had everything pre-installed so mounting this should take just a few seconds on x99


----------



## DrexelDragon

What kind of temps are ya'll getting on GTX 980 waterblocks?

I have SLI 980s, 5930k in a loop together pushing a 4k 60Hz monitor and 144hz GSYNC 1440p monitor. Temps idle around 30C and during load get up to high 40s, low 50s. Does that sound right?


----------



## tiborrr12

Sounds just about perfect!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1554554/sponsored-xforma-mbx-mkii-5k-monitor-intel-5960x-rog-rve-all-liquid-cooled/120#post_23926929


Really nice pics there Derick. Triple titans in a Murderbox makes me Jelly and sploosh at the same time.


----------



## DrexelDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Sounds just about perfect!


Cool, thanks!


----------



## Reaper28

Do you guys have a release date for the all black Vardars?


----------



## snef

I saw some in June and official around July, im right?


----------



## SteezyTN

Okay, I have an issue. I have an XSPC D5 pump, and it's crapping out on me. I know this is EK club, but because of this issue, I'm getting an EK pump next. All of a sudden, the pump started making this grinding sound. Not a high pitch grinding sound, but a grinding sound that's very loud and noticeable, but almost has a "monotone rumble" to it. Any ideas. My next pump will be EK because of this. I emailed XSPC, but knowing them, they'll most likely tell me it's my fault. My fault you ask? How? Well, it wasn't my fault. Never took the pump apart or anything. Oh well. If they don't reply or instantly deny my warranty, I'm done with XSPC.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay, I have an issue. I have an XSPC D5 pump, and it's crapping out on me. I know this is EK club, but because of this issue, I'm getting an EK pump next. All of a sudden, the pump started making this grinding sound. Not a high pitch grinding sound, but a grinding sound that's very loud and noticeable, but almost has a "monotone rumble" to it. Any ideas. My next pump will be EK because of this. I emailed XSPC, but knowing them, they'll most likely tell me it's my fault. My fault you ask? How? Well, it wasn't my fault. Never took the pump apart or anything. Oh well. If they don't reply or instantly deny my warranty, I'm done with XSPC.


Hey Steezy, maybe this might help you: http://www.overclock.net/t/1463385/is-my-xspc-d5-pwm-broken/0_20


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Hey Steezy, maybe this might help you: http://www.overclock.net/t/1463385/is-my-xspc-d5-pwm-broken/0_20


Thanks. I'll wait for XSPC to geT back to me (if they do). I don't want to take the pump and red apart because it's a combo, and that really voids warranty. I'm just frustrated. In running mayhems part 2, and it was running overnight. I wake up to an a noxious grinding sound.


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrexelDragon*
> 
> What kind of temps are ya'll getting on GTX 980 waterblocks?
> 
> I have SLI 980s, 5930k in a loop together pushing a 4k 60Hz monitor and 144hz GSYNC 1440p monitor. Temps idle around 30C and during load get up to high 40s, low 50s. Does that sound right?


Depending on your ambient temp, that's about dead on.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay, I have an issue. I have an XSPC D5 pump, and it's crapping out on me. I know this is EK club, but because of this issue, I'm getting an EK pump next. All of a sudden, the pump started making this grinding sound. Not a high pitch grinding sound, but a grinding sound that's very loud and noticeable, but almost has a "monotone rumble" to it. Any ideas. My next pump will be EK because of this. I emailed XSPC, but knowing them, they'll most likely tell me it's my fault. My fault you ask? How? Well, it wasn't my fault. Never took the pump apart or anything. Oh well. If they don't reply or instantly deny my warranty, I'm done with XSPC.


Sounds like maybe your top is mounted too tightly to your pump. Either that or your choice of top doesn't play well with XSPC pumps.









~Ceadder


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sounds like maybe your top is mounted too tightly to your pump. Either that or your choice of top doesn't play well with XSPC pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm using an XSPC D5 with this: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-d5/ek-xres-140-d5-acetal-original-csq.html no issues


----------



## Ceadderman

That may be, however I would thin about loosening the studs holding the pump to the top and see if that solves the problem. I had a noise similar to yours with my choice of DDC and my top. Loosened the screws approx 1/4 turn an the noise went away. If you try this, don't overdo it. Just do it a smidge. At worse it doesn't work and your noise sticks around.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Do you guys have a release date for the all black Vardars?


Limited batch by end of May, full batch end of July.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I saw some in June and official around July, im right?


Snef, you were near


----------



## darkangelism

I want the all white ones, do push pull with my normal F2s on the case side


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sounds like maybe your top is mounted too tightly to your pump. Either that or your choice of top doesn't play well with XSPC pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Using a combo (photon 170 red with d5 pump combo). Sorry guys, I know this is EK, but I just can't deal with XSPC warranty anymore. I really hope they get back to me by tomorrow.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay, I have an issue. I have an XSPC D5 pump, and it's crapping out on me. I know this is EK club, but because of this issue, I'm getting an EK pump next. All of a sudden, the pump started making this grinding sound. Not a high pitch grinding sound, but a grinding sound that's very loud and noticeable, but almost has a "monotone rumble" to it. Any ideas. My next pump will be EK because of this. I emailed XSPC, but knowing them, they'll most likely tell me it's my fault. My fault you ask? How? Well, it wasn't my fault. Never took the pump apart or anything. Oh well. If they don't reply or instantly deny my warranty, I'm done with XSPC.


A D5 is a D5 no matter who name is on it they are all the same and are all made by the same company!!!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> A D5 is a D5 no matter who name is on it they are all the same and are all made by the same company!!!


But warranty is not. Hence the reason for going over to EK


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> But warranty is not. Hence the reason for going over to EK


Do u get as good a waranty with the pumps??? The 6 pumps i bought from rhem was in alphacool boxes!! Lol


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Do u get as good a waranty with the pumps??? The 6 pumps i bought from rhem was in alphacool boxes!! Lol


Well XSPC makes great things. In some cases, they go hand in hand with EK. I love both companies. I'm trying to get ahold of them, but since they are different time than me, then don't respond till about 3 in the morning for me. So it's like a weeks process as I don't get the message until they all left the factory. with XSPC, all you hear is horrid responses to their RMA, and you never hear anything bad about EK's RMA service. Plus the fact that EK is always on OCN.

EDIT* well guys, I think I solved the problem. I was running mayhems Blitz Part 2 through my D5. That stuff foams up a lot, so my only guess was that the foam and solution was causing the pump to make those sounds. I'm in th process of running distilled (rinse and repeat), and now that most of that solution is gone, the pump is quiet. I owe a huge apology. I'm going to see in the next few hours if that really was the problem.


----------



## Ceadderman

GTK









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> GTK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm still getting two EK D5 pump and top for my SMA8 though







cannot wait.


----------



## Ceadderman

Are you running dual loop or single. Seems like A LOT of head room for a single. People do it all the time so am not gonna judge. Enquiring minds though.









~Ceadder


----------



## Leyaena

So... The EK-Supremacy EVO X99's look really nice.
Is there a big difference with the regular EK-Supremacy EVO's, though?
Reason I'm asking is that it seems to be out of stock on their website already, and none of the resellers seem to have gotten stock (yet)...


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Are you running dual loop or single. Seems like A LOT of head room for a single. People do it all the time so am not gonna judge. Enquiring minds though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Dual loop of course. I want some very cool Titan X's







love my EK acetal and nickel blocks.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> So... The EK-Supremacy EVO X99's look really nice.
> Is there a big difference with the regular EK-Supremacy EVO's, though?
> Reason I'm asking is that it seems to be out of stock on their website already, and none of the resellers seem to have gotten stock (yet)...


I think the only real difference is that it has the Jet and Insert pre-installed for the 2011-3. It also has captive thumbscrews that do not require posts to be mounted to the mobo before mounting the block. Other than those two things that I noticed, I think it is the same as the Supremacy EVO. I would have picked one up if it was out when I started my build.


----------



## Leyaena

Reason I asked is because I have a Supremacy Evo I could probably reuse from an older build, but that one was LGA-1150, and I don't have the accessories box anymore.
Since I'm pretty sure the mounting happens differently on X99 boards and the X99 blocks just came out, I figured I'd have a look at those.
Everywhere I checked has them out of stock, though..


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Well XSPC makes great things. In some cases, they go hand in hand with EK. I love both companies. I'm trying to get ahold of them, but since they are different time than me, then don't respond till about 3 in the morning for me. So it's like a weeks process as I don't get the message until they all left the factory. with XSPC, all you hear is horrid responses to their RMA, and you never hear anything bad about EK's RMA service. Plus the fact that EK is always on OCN.
> 
> EDIT* well guys, I think I solved the problem. I was running mayhems Blitz Part 2 through my D5. That stuff foams up a lot, so my only guess was that the foam and solution was causing the pump to make those sounds. I'm in th process of running distilled (rinse and repeat), and now that most of that solution is gone, the pump is quiet. I owe a huge apology. I'm going to see in the next few hours if that really was the problem.


Oh lord, I too know this terrible experience. Dealing with this one Chinese company lately and their hours of operation are 9 to 6 which for me is also 9 to 6... 9pm to 6am. So I basically just wait until I wake up to take my nightly pees and check my emails afterwards. Of course I end up getting excited and it takes forever to go back to sleep lol

Glad you got it working again. Still no noise?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> So... The EK-Supremacy EVO X99's look really nice.
> Is there a big difference with the regular EK-Supremacy EVO's, though?
> Reason I'm asking is that it seems to be out of stock on their website already, and none of the resellers seem to have gotten stock (yet)...


The CPU block itself is the same as the normal Supremacy EVO.

The only difference, is that it comes with the right insert and jet plate already installed and it also come with pre-installed mounting mechanism for the 2011-3 socket.

It's a socket specific CPU block so no backplate for 115x socket installation is provided and also no extra inserts or jet plates.

The block was only released yesterday and the majority of the stock made in the first place was taken by the resellers so this is why you see it out of stock. The resellers will have it in the next days or so and our website will have them in stock soon too.


----------



## Leyaena

I bought me some new toys! (again)
How much money do we need to spend before we start getting discount vouchers and thank you emails from the CEO?








Because looking at my order history from the EKWB shop makes me die a little bit inside


----------



## darkangelism

Got stuff http://s991.photobucket.com/user/da...05/IMG_20150521_090331_1_zpsjc12uhln.jpg.html


----------



## dodgethis

Loop assembled and leaked test, with power cables in for the first boot. Using EK compression fitting, right angle adapters, tubing, and blocks for the 290x Lightning and CPU. I have Vardars-5s at the top, but unseen for now.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Any update for when the 140mm Vardars are coming?

Edit: That's looking good @dodgethis, are you using EK's ZMT tubing?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Any update for when the 140mm Vardars are coming?


They're on boat, scheduled for early to mid July. Batch of promo and review samples should be here in a week.

First review is already in the making (Thermalbench).


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Limited batch by end of May, full batch end of July.
> Snef, you were near


Thanks for the info, I guess it will be first come / first serve for retailers to get their orders in for the first batch at the end of May?


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> They're on boat, scheduled for early to mid July. Batch of promo and review samples should be here in a week.
> 
> First review is already in the making (Thermalbench).


Excellent, I'm really excited for them







.


----------



## tistou77

Hello

The new Ek Supremacy EVO X99 is the same of Supremacy EVO minus extra socket support, jets, etc...?
But the block is the same?

Thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> The new Ek Supremacy EVO X99 is the same of Supremacy EVO minus extra socket support, jets, etc...?
> But the block is the same?
> 
> Thanks


Yes and also the mounting mechanism differ a bit


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes and also the mounting mechanism differ a bit


Thanks

It's just for aesthetics the mounting mechanism ?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> It's just for aesthetics the mounting mechanism ?


The mounting mechanism is already mounted on the bracket so all you have to do is drop the CPU block in place and screw it. No springs to install prior to screwing it since it's already mounted.

It's just a bit more easy to install than usually.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> The new Ek Supremacy EVO X99 is the same of Supremacy EVO minus extra socket support, jets, etc...?
> But the block is the same?
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes and also the mounting mechanism differ a bit


My Supremacy Evo came with -3 socket support. It just was not pre-installed. Am I wrong?


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The mounting mechanism is already mounted on the bracket so all you have to do is drop the CPU block in place and screw it. No springs to install prior to screwing it since it's already mounted.
> 
> It's just a bit more easy to install than usually.


Thanks for the explanation


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> My Supremacy Evo came with -3 socket support. It just was not pre-installed. Am I wrong?


Exactly


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Derick the troll. Always think it's going to be:



but it never is.


----------



## fast_fate

Info in the usual place


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Derick the troll. Always think it's going to be:
> 
> 
> 
> but it never is.
Click to expand...

I have some of those


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I have some of those
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


derick.. oh derick.









BTW guys. i've got brasso.. i have EK supremacy full nickel and 2 X 290X Nickle Plexi .. is it ok to use brasso to polish the exterior? how do i apply it/use it.


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I have some of those


it was announced back in 2013, but i never saw it for sale. interesting device


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> BTW guys. i've got brasso.. i have EK supremacy full nickel and 2 X 290X Nickle Plexi .. is it ok to use brasso to polish the exterior?


Yes, you can use brasso or similiar soft metal polishing creme.


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Info in the usual place


Interested in this radiator. Any specs and release date?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> Interested in this radiator. Any specs and release date?


Release Date info I was given - _"XE should be officially released before the end of May"_ so perhaps we'll see stock hit the shelves next week.
1st look with photos and specs are posted








but I can't post the link in here, perhaps someone else can ...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Its frustrating that they are sticking with the 6/32 screws for these new models. I guess my M4 tap is gonna get more work.


----------



## fast_fate

Agreed... M4 should be the industry standard


----------



## tiborrr12

Maybe from the users point of view, but M4 is prone to cross-thread on such thin sheet metal and can cause a rise in number of rejects. Companies are having a lot of headaches over this.


----------



## fast_fate

XE restriction Testing complete








and she's in the thermal chamber now for about 3 days of logging temps at the various fan speeds and flow rates.

Alternate ports on the XE - nicely recessed


----------



## Georgey123

And I was just about to get some Hardware Labs GTX's, looking forward to this release


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Release Date info I was given - _"XE should be officially released before the end of May"_ so perhaps we'll see stock hit the shelves next week.
> 1st look with photos and specs are posted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I can't post the link in here, perhaps someone else can ...


http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/21/first-look-at-eks-new-xe-360mm-radiator/
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/21/first-look-at-eks-new-xe-360mm-radiator/
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/21/first-look-at-eks-new-xe-360mm-radiator/
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/21/first-look-at-eks-new-xe-360mm-radiator/
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/21/first-look-at-eks-new-xe-360mm-radiator/
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/21/first-look-at-eks-new-xe-360mm-radiator/
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/21/first-look-at-eks-new-xe-360mm-radiator/
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/21/first-look-at-eks-new-xe-360mm-radiator/

fk the police.


----------



## PachAz

I have quite a few EK parts in my build, this is my motherboard fitted with EK ram blocks and motherboard block. I also use EK 90 and 45 degree fittings as well as 12mm extenders. You can see some additional EK parts in the background







.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/21/first-look-at-eks-new-xe-360mm-radiator/
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/21/first-look-at-eks-new-xe-360mm-radiator/
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/21/first-look-at-eks-new-xe-360mm-radiator/
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/21/first-look-at-eks-new-xe-360mm-radiator/
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/21/first-look-at-eks-new-xe-360mm-radiator/
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/21/first-look-at-eks-new-xe-360mm-radiator/
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/21/first-look-at-eks-new-xe-360mm-radiator/
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/21/first-look-at-eks-new-xe-360mm-radiator/
> 
> fk the police.


don't be that guy szeged. just don't be.


----------



## szeged

too late.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> They're on boat, scheduled for early to mid July. Batch of promo and review samples should be here in a week.
> 
> First review is already in the making (Thermalbench).


Niiiice. Can't wait to see the results!


----------



## ShinGoutetsu

Quick question, I have an EK Supremacy Evo on my 5930k but it has the wrong jet plate in it (after checking the installation pdf again) and possibly the wrong insert









It has the preinstalled I1 and J1 parts in it but my temps seem fine... ambient is currently about 22c and cpu temp is 31c. Under load it never goes over 65c.

Is it worth draining the loop and changing these to the correct ones? According to the instructions it should be I2 and J3 IIRC


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShinGoutetsu*
> 
> Quick question, I have an EK Supremacy Evo on my 5930k but it has the wrong jet plate in it (after checking the installation pdf again) and possibly the wrong insert
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It has the preinstalled I1 and J1 parts in it but my temps seem fine... ambient is currently about 22c and cpu temp is 31c. Under load it never goes over 65c.
> 
> Is it worth draining the loop and changing these to the correct ones? According to the instructions it should be I2 and J3 IIRC


Probably not...


----------



## ShinGoutetsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Probably not...


Thanks for the fast reply


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Niiiice. Can't wait to see the results!


Just got it along with a few other goodies. This thing is.. almost furious. I'll take pics soon once I am done writing up a review of another fan.


----------



## szeged

ignore the garbage can pics, i dont edit photos and florida weather is not being agreeable on lighting situations.


----------



## derickwm

Only 3!???


----------



## szeged

yeah i decided to just go with 3 since nvidia lost my 4th card in shipping they ended up refunding me and i never ended up ordering a 4th. Maybe ill change my mind and get a 4th later


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah i decided to just go with 3 since nvidia lost my 4th card in shipping they ended up refunding me and i never ended up ordering a 4th. Maybe ill change my mind and get a 4th later


Of Course you Will.









TCO


----------



## derickwm

Yikes... Sucks for them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Maybe you will receive the 4th one as a surprise. Doubtful considering a package I shipped in October was returned to shipper as "undeliverable" an I haven't got it back yet and shipper denied my reasonable claim on the insurance side. Four Enzotech 45* fittings just floating around the USPS atmosphere.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Maybe you will receive the 4th one as a surprise. Doubtful considering a package I shipped in October was returned to shipper as "undeliverable" an I haven't got it back yet and shipper denied my reasonable claim on the insurance side. Four Enzotech 45* fittings just floating around the USPS atmosphere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm sure @stren would love to tell you his story involving USPS


----------



## stren

$700 of parts lost in transit to Derick - they leave him notes for delivery but have no idea where it is when he tries to pick it up. I can't claim insurance because "it's not lost", but yet no one knows where it is. This is still going on four months later. USPS is the worst.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Niiiice. Can't wait to see the results!


These pics are only for you (ok maybe others can also see it).

Pre-production Vardar F3-140ER:























































Comparing to FF5-120:



















The blades are slightly different also.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> $700 of parts lost... USPS is the worst.


Agreed.









They were better before Clinton for his grubby fingers on their system. Once he privatized them that is when they lost their interest in providing the quality service we were used to.









~Ceadder


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> These pics are only for you (ok maybe others can also see it).
> 
> Pre-production Vardar F3-140ER:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Comparing to FF5-120:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blades are slightly different also.


Ohhh my, those look nice. Definitely looking forward to the comparison, and love the fact that the two of them would have a similar look at a distance. It will also be lovely to see how well they hold up, because 140mm fans desperately need an awesome rad fan.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> These pics are only for you (ok maybe others can also see it).
> 
> Pre-production Vardar F3-140ER:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Comparing to FF5-120:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blades are slightly different also.


These look interesting, and that's one massive hub. Can't wait to see how they'll perform.


----------



## VSG

Testing already finished, I need to analyze and plot the results but looks like a slaughter of the few 140mm fans tested out so far. Now I am having second thoughts about all these Blacknoise fans here lol.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Testing already finished, I need to analyze and plot the results but looks like a slaughter of the few 140mm fans tested out so far. Now I am having second thoughts about all these Blacknoise fans here lol.


Did you test the 140MM Alphenfoehn fans? I'm looking to get those for my next build.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Testing already finished, I need to analyze and plot the results but looks like a slaughter of the few 140mm fans tested out so far. Now I am having second thoughts about all these Blacknoise fans here lol.


Pretty much exactly what I was hoping to hear. Now to get back to figuring out which case I'm going to go with *laughs nervously*

Oh!!! Any mention as to how many versions of the 140mm fans they're doing yet? I'm guessing F4ER's and FF5's?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Pretty much exactly what I was hoping to hear. Now to get back to figuring out which case I'm going to go with *laughs nervously*
> 
> Oh!!! Any mention as to how many versions of the 140mm fans they're doing yet? I'm guessing F4ER's and FF5's?


4 I guess if this is the F3 and from what I know about an even bigger monster.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Did you test the 140MM Alphenfoehn fans? I'm looking to get those for my next build.


Afraid not, I have no touch with Alpenfoehn. I believe Deepcool makes their fans so let me try that route and see.


----------



## SteezyTN

So I decided on getting an SMA8.

Heres my plan for the watercooling parts;

two pumps in a single loop. This is what im planning on getting. http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-xtop-dual-d5-pwm-incl-2x-pump.html

However, how does a two pump, one loop work with DUAL reservoirs. my goal is to place two reservoirs in the empty space of the SMA8 (next to the mobo). Is it possible to have to reservoirs and one loop (with two pumps)? Im going to be using two Titan X's in SLI, and need some more radiators.) Would two D5"s be enough for two GPU's, CPU, 1x480, 1x560, 1x360 and 1x240?


----------



## VSG

Of course you can as I was telling you. Have the outputs of the two reservoirs meet up in a T-fitting and feed to the pump(s). You can also split the stream entering a reservoir if you want to feed both reservoirs.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Of course you can as I was telling you. Have the outputs of the two reservoirs meet up in a T-fitting and feed to the pump(s). You can also split the stream entering a reservoir if you want to feed both reservoirs.


Sorry, I forgot to reply to the PM









Okay, but what about the in ports on the res? That's where I get confused. Would you use the top of the res for the in?And what you said yesterday, it's better to have 1 loop and 2 pumps? Is this what you mean...



I know the drawing isn't the best, but I think I understand the point. I just saw one of ronsanuts videos, and that's how he had it set up.
I think I'm going to order an AX1200i tonight, and save it for when I order the CaseLabs. That way I won't be spending at one time.


----------



## VSG

Replied to PM but yeah, that's pretty much it.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Of Course you Will Rittman
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Testing already finished, I need to analyze and plot the results but looks like a slaughter of the few 140mm fans tested out so far. Now I am having second thoughts about all these Blacknoise fans here lol.


Does it include phanteks this time? They really need to send you some fans ffs.


----------



## VSG

Yeah I finally finished testing out the PH-F140MP that I had been sent along with the PH-F120MP. It's not really intended to be an outright performer, they gave priority to noise more as with the 120mm version. I will include it in also.


----------



## vexred

hi everyone, not sure if this is the correct place to ask this but just thought better ask here than start a new post.

first off: me = noob. forgive the lack of knowledge of wc tech.

just wondering, if i wanted to parallel flow my 2x 970 GTX GPUs, do both the wblocks have to b identical? cos at the moment, they're in a serial setup (1 pipe connecting) and both graphic cards are different brands (1 is a gainward ref design 970 gtx using an EKFC-670 gpu full cover block, the other 970 is a palit ref design using a universal gpu block made by watercool heatkiller it's called a gpu-x core3?? u can find it here this is what it looks like http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17556/ex-blc-1366/HEATKILLER_GPU-X_Core_LT_Universal_VGA_Water_Block_17001.html)

both gpu temps go up to high 50s to mid 60s deg celsius under full load (gaming GTA5 etc). the reason i would like to do the parallel connection is just for looks. performance wise i dont really know either - i have been told it works and many others say it doesnt work and also either way doesnt make much difference in performance and temps. other thing is i don't think anyone else has such a lame setup of using 2 different gpu blocks like i am. reason is cos the stuff was just lying around so i thought of saving some budget and re-using 'em on my 970s. i have a simple single loop that cools cpu, chipset, 1x 360 rad, 1x 480 rad, 2x 970s gpus, mobo vrm, all flowed by a single d5 pmp-450 koolance pump.

so ya basically what i wanted to know is, do both gpu blocks have to b the same before i can change the serial connection to a parallel (i hope i spelt that correctly) connection between the gpus? may i also know what performance degradation i will have by doing this? sory for asking so many questions n sory for my bad english hope u guys can understand what i mean. any advice from u guys is very much appreciated and nice to meet u all =)


----------



## andl

Am reading this right, put rubber ring under the pump?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

It looks as though there will be a grove on the bottom plate that secures the pump to the base plate. The groove should be around the hole of the bottom plate.

TCO


----------



## derickwm

It's time...









































































More:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1554554/sponsored-xforma-mbx-mkii-5k-monitor-intel-5960x-rog-rve-all-liquid-cooled/220#post_23943585


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vexred*
> 
> hi everyone, not sure if this is the correct place to ask this but just thought better ask here than start a new post.
> 
> first off: me = noob. forgive the lack of knowledge of wc tech.
> 
> just wondering, if i wanted to parallel flow my 2x 970 GTX GPUs, do both the wblocks have to b identical? cos at the moment, they're in a serial setup (1 pipe connecting) and both graphic cards are different brands (1 is a gainward ref design 970 gtx using an EKFC-670 gpu full cover block, the other 970 is a palit ref design using a universal gpu block made by watercool heatkiller it's called a gpu-x core3?? u can find it here this is what it looks like http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17556/ex-blc-1366/HEATKILLER_GPU-X_Core_LT_Universal_VGA_Water_Block_17001.html)
> 
> both gpu temps go up to high 50s to mid 60s deg celsius under full load (gaming GTA5 etc). the reason i would like to do the parallel connection is just for looks. performance wise i dont really know either - i have been told it works and many others say it doesnt work and also either way doesnt make much difference in performance and temps. other thing is i don't think anyone else has such a lame setup of using 2 different gpu blocks like i am. reason is cos the stuff was just lying around so i thought of saving some budget and re-using 'em on my 970s. i have a simple single loop that cools cpu, chipset, 1x 360 rad, 1x 480 rad, 2x 970s gpus, mobo vrm, all flowed by a single d5 pmp-450 koolance pump.
> 
> so ya basically what i wanted to know is, do both gpu blocks have to b the same before i can change the serial connection to a parallel (i hope i spelt that correctly) connection between the gpus? may i also know what performance degradation i will have by doing this? sory for asking so many questions n sory for my bad english hope u guys can understand what i mean. any advice from u guys is very much appreciated and nice to meet u all =)


Short answer, they should be the same. That being said, im a big fan of testing for science. Id say try it and see what happens to your temp. You most likely would never damage them just seeing if it made any difference.


----------



## vexred

thanks!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vexred*
> 
> hi everyone, not sure if this is the correct place to ask this but just thought better ask here than start a new post.
> 
> first off: me = noob. forgive the lack of knowledge of wc tech.
> 
> just wondering, if i wanted to parallel flow my 2x 970 GTX GPUs, do both the wblocks have to b identical? cos at the moment, they're in a serial setup (1 pipe connecting) and both graphic cards are different brands (1 is a gainward ref design 970 gtx using an EKFC-670 gpu full cover block, the other 970 is a palit ref design using a universal gpu block made by watercool heatkiller it's called a gpu-x core3?? u can find it here this is what it looks like http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17556/ex-blc-1366/HEATKILLER_GPU-X_Core_LT_Universal_VGA_Water_Block_17001.html)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> both gpu temps go up to high 50s to mid 60s deg celsius under full load (gaming GTA5 etc). the reason i would like to do the parallel connection is just for looks. performance wise i dont really know either - i have been told it works and many others say it doesnt work and also either way doesnt make much difference in performance and temps. other thing is i don't think anyone else has such a lame setup of using 2 different gpu blocks like i am. reason is cos the stuff was just lying around so i thought of saving some budget and re-using 'em on my 970s. i have a simple single loop that cools cpu, chipset, 1x 360 rad, 1x 480 rad, 2x 970s gpus, mobo vrm, all flowed by a single d5 pmp-450 koolance pump.
> 
> so ya basically what i wanted to know is, do both gpu blocks have to b the same before i can change the serial connection to a parallel (i hope i spelt that correctly) connection between the gpus? may i also know what performance degradation i will have by doing this? sory for asking so many questions n sory for my bad english hope u guys can understand what i mean. any advice from u guys is very much appreciated and nice to meet u all =)


I don't think it needs to be from the same brand. I'd say try it to see if you will have a temp difference but if you have one it shouldn't be that much of a difference.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am reading this right, put rubber ring under the pump?


Yes, the seal will be between the bottom attachment and the pump instead of between the pump and the bottom of the pump top.


----------



## By-Tor

Count me in....

My Powercolor R9 290x LCS came with a factory mounted EK water block.


----------



## SteezyTN

Do you guys recommend dual pump or single pump for one giant loop. Meaning 2 GPU blocks (parallel), CPU, 2x480mm rads, 360mm, and a 240mm? I'm going D5, but I'm not sure if one pump will be enough.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Do you guys recommend dual pump or single pump for one giant loop. Meaning 2 GPU blocks (parallel), CPU, 2x480mm rads, 360mm, and a 240mm? I'm going D5, but I'm not sure if one pump will be enough.


Heck that is just a normal loop!!! 1 pump would do it but personally i would go with 2 that way you can have a little more flow!!!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Do you guys recommend dual pump or single pump for one giant loop. Meaning 2 GPU blocks (parallel), CPU, 2x480mm rads, 360mm, and a 240mm? I'm going D5, but I'm not sure if one pump will be enough.


My Ergo Proxy build had your exact setup but instead of your 240 it was another 360 and all this was on 1 D5


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> My Ergo Proxy build had your exact setup but instead of your 240 it was another 360 and all this was on 1 D5


So my next question is... If I get 1 D5, and it isn't cutting it, could I add another pump. How do I connect them in a serial, or even parallel setup? What's the difference between serials and parallel when I comes to pumps? I know the difference between GPU's, but never heard of it for pumps until recently.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So my next question is... If I get 1 D5, and it isn't cutting it, could I add another pump. How do I connect them in a serial, or even parallel setup? What's the difference between serials and parallel when I comes to pumps? I know the difference between GPU's, but never heard of it for pumps until recently.


Connect you pumps in series.. When and if you decide to add another it does not matter where you put it as this is a close loop system!! Just don't parallel them


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Connect you pumps in series.. When and if you decide to add another it does not matter where you put it as this is a close loop system!! Just don't parallel them


But how do I do that? That's why I was thinking about getting the dual D5 pump and top the EK sells.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> Am reading this right, put rubber ring under the pump?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes, the seal will be between the bottom attachment and the pump instead of between the pump and the bottom of the pump top.


I always assumed that had to be an error because it is the direct opposite of every other d5 top that exists, including the other EK models. My D5 Xres sure isn't installed that way.
Even the D5 cover kit that is compatible with both the D5 Xres and the D5 xtop uses the normal seal in front of the pump system.

Edit: Also the opposite of EK's own install video. At 1:23 the oring is stretched over the front of the pump just like normal.





And this has come up before. Annoyingly the pictures have disappeared from this thread. Seems like the Manual has been changed again or the pumps themselves have been changed but that seems unlikely. My manual shows the O-ring above the pump.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1385830/having-frustrating-difficulties-fitting-my-xspc-d5-vario-pump-to-my-ek-d5-x-res-top-100/10


----------



## SteezyTN

So when I upgrade to an SMA8, I think I'm going to save some money and get a single D5. However, if it's not enough for all my radiators, how do I connect a second pump in serial? Ive never heard of these terms regarding pumps before... Only for GPU's


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So when I upgrade to an SMA8, I think I'm going to save some money and get a single D5. However, if it's not enough for all my radiators, how do I connect a second pump in serial? Ive never heard of these terms regarding pumps before... Only for GPU's


If I'm not mistaken you can just setup the second pump at another point on the loop for redunancy, but if you are looking for extra performance of dual pump you could always use a dual pump top.


----------



## obotNapalm

Originally asked this question in the main thread but it was suggested to post here:

I've just bought an EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP (link) to go with an EK-XRES 100 D5 PWM (link) which has the EK-RES X3 - TUBE 400 uprade fitted (link).

Something I had worried about before buying and it seems to be true is that there is no way I can see to adjust the final angle the multiport top ends up at after screwing into the tube & pump housing. Looking from above the 'front horizontal ports' of the top seem to end up roughly 120° clockwise from the two inlet/outlet ports of the pump housing.

Is there anyway that this angle can be adjusted? I'm hoping I am missing something obvious? I could possible stack another o-ring but not sure that's a good idea and Ideally I want to reduce the angle not increase. I had a look around the forums and Google but couldn't find an answer. I think the threads are only single start.

Another easy question, anyone know the best way to store radiators when not in use?

Thanks.


----------



## obotNapalm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I always assumed that had to be an error because it is the direct opposite of every other d5 top that exists, including the other EK models. My D5 Xres sure isn't installed that way.
> Even the D5 cover kit that is compatible with both the D5 Xres and the D5 xtop uses the normal seal in front of the pump system.
> 
> Edit: Also the opposite of EK's own install video. At 1:23 the oring is stretched over the front of the pump just like normal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this has come up before. Annoyingly the pictures have disappeared from this thread. Seems like the Manual has been changed again or the pumps themselves have been changed but that seems unlikely. My manual shows the O-ring above the pump.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1385830/having-frustrating-difficulties-fitting-my-xspc-d5-vario-pump-to-my-ek-d5-x-res-top-100/10


I pulled my XRES D5 apart again yesterday to swap pumps. I checked the online installation manual for the o-ring location and the online manuals (PDF's) also show the confusing (incorrect?) o-ring location at the bottom. It was only bought a month or so back but the paper instructions that came with it are the same.

As you say the o-ring should actually sit on the upper 'lip' of the pump as per that image in your second link.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I always assumed that had to be an error because it is the direct opposite of every other d5 top that exists, including the other EK models. My D5 Xres sure isn't installed that way.
> Even the D5 cover kit that is compatible with both the D5 Xres and the D5 xtop uses the normal seal in front of the pump system.
> 
> Edit: Also the opposite of EK's own install video. At 1:23 the oring is stretched over the front of the pump just like normal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this has come up before. Annoyingly the pictures have disappeared from this thread. Seems like the Manual has been changed again or the pumps themselves have been changed but that seems unlikely. My manual shows the O-ring above the pump.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1385830/having-frustrating-difficulties-fitting-my-xspc-d5-vario-pump-to-my-ek-d5-x-res-top-100/10


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obotNapalm*
> 
> I pulled my XRES D5 apart again yesterday to swap pumps. I checked the online installation manual for the o-ring location and the online manuals (PDF's) also show the confusing (incorrect?) o-ring location at the bottom. It was only bought a month or so back but the paper instructions that came with it are the same.
> 
> As you say the o-ring should actually sit on the upper 'lip' of the pump as per that image in your second link.


Ok now i'm confuse. I will check with what I have here to be sure i'm not mistaken anyone...even myself!!!

@andl wait until I confirme this issue


----------



## VSG

For the D5 top here I had put it on the bottom following the instructions as there's a groove in there that fits the O-ring and the pump body perfectly. I haven't done any leak checks yet though, so it would be good to know.


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I always assumed that had to be an error because it is the direct opposite of every other d5 top that exists, including the other EK models. My D5 Xres sure isn't installed that way.
> Even the D5 cover kit that is compatible with both the D5 Xres and the D5 xtop uses the normal seal in front of the pump system.
> 
> Edit: Also the opposite of EK's own install video. At 1:23 the oring is stretched over the front of the pump just like normal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this has come up before. Annoyingly the pictures have disappeared from this thread. Seems like the Manual has been changed again or the pumps themselves have been changed but that seems unlikely. My manual shows the O-ring above the pump.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1385830/having-frustrating-difficulties-fitting-my-xspc-d5-vario-pump-to-my-ek-d5-x-res-top-100/10


Done it in between top and pump. It's working. Same thing was with hf supreme waterblock where different metal rings have to be used.

Do any of you have leaks with new ekwb acf fittings? My 13/19 just don't lock tubes


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> But how do I do that? That's why I was thinking about getting the dual D5 pump and top the EK sells.


The dual pump top is nice but not required. Series is what you are doing on a loop from one component to another makeing a closed circle.. So you can break the cirle anywhere to put another pump in!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So when I upgrade to an SMA8, I think I'm going to save some money and get a single D5. However, if it's not enough for all my radiators, how do I connect a second pump in serial? Ive never heard of these terms regarding pumps before... Only for GPU's


I am at work and will not be home until saturday 30 may. When i do i will send you drawings of both.. But having anything besides GPU's in series is pretty rare!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> If I'm not mistaken you can just setup the second pump at another point on the loop for redunancy, but if you are looking for extra performance of dual pump you could always use a dual pump top.


As long as the pumps are in series then the dual pump really does not give you much if any of a performance boost over 2 single pumps!!!


----------



## PachAz

The paper description from EK is wrong. I used the regular methos of setting the O-ring showed in videos on youtube.


----------



## Reaper28

Just a random question for some people, if you had the choice between a Hydro copper block (I sort of like the look) or a Razor block (I like the thick acrylic lol) which would you get mainly for esthetics? I know how they would perform


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Just a random question for some people, if you had the choice between a Hydro copper block (I sort of like the look) or a Razor block (I like the thick acrylic lol) which would you get mainly for esthetics? I know how they would perform


Cooper


----------



## akira749

@andl

@Jakusonfire

@geggeg

@PachAz

Ok I apologize for my mistake but you guys are right.

I checked the EK-XRES 140 D5 Vario I have with the pump already installed by EK and the O-Ring is bet the bottom of the pump top and the upper lip of the pump.

So the right installation schema is this one


----------



## VSG

Yeah this is how I have it also, just made sense. Instructions need updating to remove any confusion then.


----------



## Jakusonfire

It's odd because the instructions were originally wrong, then updated to show the oring on top of the pump, and now it seems like with the recent change in the naming scheme they reverted to the old one.


----------



## PachAz

The paper manual that is being shipped with the items were always wrong. I suspect it is due to uncertanties where the o-ring should be mounted when using aftermarket tops.


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I have some of those


I still have 2 extra compression fittings for that as soon as it's released its going in my loop.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> The dual pump top is nice but not required. Series is what you are doing on a loop from one component to another makeing a closed circle.. So you can break the cirle anywhere to put another pump in!!!
> I am at work and will not be home until saturday 30 may. When i do i will send you drawings of both.. But having anything besides GPU's in series is pretty rare!!!
> As long as the pumps are in series then the dual pump really does not give you much if any of a performance boost over 2 single pumps!!!


D5 won't benefit from a dual pump top like the DDC does? That sort of stinks, was under the impression the pump top would benefit like the mcp35x2 for DDC.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> D5 won't benefit from a dual pump top like the DDC does? That sort of stinks, was under the impression the pump top would benefit like the mcp35x2 for DDC.


Yes it does better but like the mcp35x2 not a big differrence between it and just 2 pumps in series


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah this is how I have it also, just made sense. Instructions need updating to remove any confusion then.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It's odd because the instructions were originally wrong, then updated to show the oring on top of the pump, and now it seems like with the recent change in the naming scheme they reverted to the old one.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> The paper manual that is being shipped with the items were always wrong. I suspect it is due to uncertanties where the o-ring should be mounted when using aftermarket tops.


I will make sure to let the guys know about this. Again sorry for the confusion guys.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> The paper manual that is being shipped with the items were always wrong. I suspect it is due to uncertanties where the o-ring should be mounted when using aftermarket tops.


No, like I mentioned before my paper manual is the correct revised one.


----------



## PachAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No, like I mentioned before my paper manual is the correct revised one.


Okay well then.


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No, like I mentioned before my paper manual is the correct revised one.


mine came a week ago with error. so it failed again


----------



## derickwm

More:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1554554/sponsored-xforma-mbx-mkii-5k-monitor-intel-5960x-rog-rve-all-liquid-cooled/230#post_23948932


----------



## Archea47

Hey Team,

So I believe my DCP 4.0 pump is on its way out. I'd like to purchase a replacement but see the DCP 4.0 is discontinued

The rig is Icarus Wings (sig rig):


As you can see I have the EK X-RES to go along with pump.

I assume with a new pump I can't re-use the X-RES. I'm looking for something along those lines - an integrated pump & res solution - that will fit in the existing area.

Noise is a low priority. I just need it to perform well and reliably.

Any suggestions would be very much appreciated


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey Team,
> 
> So I believe my DCP 4.0 pump is on its way out. I'd like to purchase a replacement but see the DCP 4.0 is discontinued
> 
> The rig is Icarus Wings (sig rig):
> 
> 
> As you can see I have the EK X-RES to go along with pump.
> 
> I assume with a new pump I can't re-use the X-RES. I'm looking for something along those lines - an integrated pump & res solution - that will fit in the existing area.
> 
> Noise is a low priority. I just need it to perform well and reliably.
> 
> Any suggestions would be very much appreciated


if you want an integrated pump/res combo then a DDC is likely the most compact you will get it at the moment. This is likely the most compact solution you will get from EK at the moment, and you can always change out the tube if you figure you want a taller res.

Edit: as for the DCP 4.0, it seems to still be in dtock at EK: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-dcp-series-pumps/ek-dcp-4-0-pwm-12v-dc-pwm-pump.html


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> if you want an integrated pump/res combo then a DDC is likely the most compact you will get it at the moment. This is likely the most compact solution you will get from EK at the moment, and you can always change out the tube if you figure you want a taller res.


Thanks for the response!

The girlfriend now is suggesting I get a new case if space is an issue. That means bigger rads. Since that's even remotely in play, the performance will need to be equal to or greater than the DCP IMO

How does the DDC 3.2 stack up to the DCP 4.0? Or if I'm going to upgrade to a larger case, is there a pump that's _the_ pump these days?

Thanks


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey Team,
> 
> So I believe my DCP 4.0 pump is on its way out. I'd like to purchase a replacement but see the DCP 4.0 is discontinued
> 
> The rig is Icarus Wings (sig rig):
> 
> 
> As you can see I have the EK X-RES to go along with pump.
> 
> I assume with a new pump I can't re-use the X-RES. I'm looking for something along those lines - an integrated pump & res solution - that will fit in the existing area.
> 
> Noise is a low priority. I just need it to perform well and reliably.
> 
> Any suggestions would be very much appreciated


It's not discontinued.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/pumps/shopby/pump-type--dcp/


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thanks for the response!
> 
> The girlfriend now is suggesting I get a new case if space is an issue. That means bigger rads. Since that's even remotely in play, the performance will need to be equal to or greater than the DCP IMO
> 
> How does the DDC 3.2 stack up to the DCP 4.0? Or if I'm going to upgrade to a larger case, is there a pump that's _the_ pump these days?
> 
> Thanks


Get a case lab case and fill it up


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Get a case lab case and fill it up


Agreeeeeed! I'm going to get an SMA8 soon. I love my Corsair 750D, but there's just not enough rad space for my two Titan X's when overclocked (even though I backed down by my 860w PSU).


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Agreeeeeed! I'm going to get an SMA8 soon. I love my Corsair 750D, but there's just not enough rad space for my two Titan X's when overclocked (even though I backed down by my 860w PSU).


Wait a second, theres not enough rad space in a 750D since when??


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Wait a second, theres not enough rad space in a 750D since when??


Dose not look like it to me!!! Dont know how you can have less that 4 rads in a case!!!!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Wait a second, theres not enough rad space in a 750D since when??


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Dose not look like it to me!!! Dont know how you can have less that 4 rads in a case!!!!


I never said there's wasn't enough rads space for a 750d... I did, but read the rest... For my TX SLI setup, I need at least one more rad.


----------



## Kritikill

Damn, I figured a 240 and 360 would have been enough.....Do the TX run significantly hotter than the 980's? I have 980's and never see them get above mid 40's during benches.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thanks for the response!
> 
> The girlfriend now is suggesting I get a new case if space is an issue. That means bigger rads. Since that's even remotely in play, the performance will need to be equal to or greater than the DCP IMO
> 
> How does the DDC 3.2 stack up to the DCP 4.0? Or if I'm going to upgrade to a larger case, is there a pump that's _the_ pump these days?
> 
> Thanks


Phanteks Enthoo Primo.. What a sweet case...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854013

https://www.google.com/search?q=phanteks+enthoo+primo+red&biw=1531&bih=905&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=sjFkVZ69KoaiyQTe24OQAQ&ved=0CB0QsAQ


----------



## EK-123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> It's not discontinued.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/pumps/shopby/pump-type--dcp/


Hi, it's not discontinued. We just have a stupid bug in current webshop that first shows EOL items, then the rest of them. We discontinued the normal version and now we sell only PWM version: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-dcp-4-0-pwm-12v-dc-pwm-pump.html

p.s. new webshop will be introduced in a couple of weeks and things will become much more clear.

Regards
Mark
EKWB


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Damn, I figured a 240 and 360 would have been enough.....Do the TX run significantly hotter than the 980's? I have 980's and never see them get above mid 40's during benches.


The TDP of the 980 is like 165w. The TX is 250w. I have two, so I need more radiator space. It's sufficient if I'm not OCing.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> The TDP of the 980 is like 165w. The TX is 250w. I have two, so I need more radiator space. It's sufficient if I'm not OCing.


I gotcha...I take it you are going to go back to the higher wattage PSU?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> I gotcha...I take it you are going to go back to the higher wattage PSU?


Well I'm able to reach 1442mhz stable in almost all games so far. Only problem is that the PSU is pretty much running at full load.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Well I'm able to reach 1442mhz stable in almost all games so far. Only problem is that the PSU is pretty much running at full load.


Actually that is goid for a PSU and raises efficiency of PSU


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Actually that is goid for a PSU and raises efficiency of PSU


On a case by case scenario


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus

Assuming both power supplies are quality, it will always be better to run at anything under 100% load. Aside from less efficiency with 100% load, the heat, and everything inside the unit will be put to the test.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Actually that is goid for a PSU and raises efficiency of PSU


Yeah, ive always read that running 60% of the rating is the sweet spot.


----------



## Ceadderman

Which is why I suggest more wattage than necessary. I try to go approximately 200w over need. So if I need 700w (incl max OC) then I go for 1000w. This keeps the PSU cooler and quieter and in that sweet spot for 24/7 usage.

I find it funny that people shame me for my opinion when I suggest the same thing for other builds
But I'd rather have the power and quietness than lack power and live in a wind tunnel.









~Ceadder


----------



## GhostHitWall

Hello EK club, I just needed to confirm the compatibility of EK-FB KIT GA X99 LE - Nickel and Gigabyte GA-X99M-Gaming 5

By cooling configurator, the motherboard is compatible with this block.
But from the block's compatible list, it gives me "We are sorry, but the specified product could not be found. Please, contact our support."

Does anyone have the exact block and board installed?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostHitWall*
> 
> Hello EK club, I just needed to confirm the compatibility of EK-FB KIT GA X99 LE - Nickel and Gigabyte GA-X99M-Gaming 5
> 
> By cooling configurator, the motherboard is compatible with this block.
> But from the block's compatible list, it gives me "We are sorry, but the specified product could not be found. Please, contact our support."
> 
> Does anyone have the exact block and board installed?


"EK-FB KIT GA X99 LE"

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109821344 shows for "GIGABYTE GA-X99M-Gaming 5 (rev. 1.0)" as "Visual" compatibility which means:

"EK have visually inspected the hardware and checked for compatibility with specific EK product (typically with internet images and CAD programm)."


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Damn, I figured a 240 and 360 would have been enough.....Do the TX run significantly hotter than the 980's? I have 980's and never see them get above mid 40's during benches.


I digress, Unless your ambients are a ton lower than 26C, gets to 27C in the mid day(Like it is over here in Louisiana) I have hit 50C on my top card after 5 or 6 hours straight of gaming. The lower card won't pass us 45C

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Which is why I suggest more wattage than necessary. I try to go approximately 200w over need. So if I need 700w (incl max OC) then I go for 1000w. This keeps the PSU cooler and quieter and in that sweet spot for 24/7 usage.
> 
> I find it funny that people shame me for my opinion when I suggest the same thing for other builds
> But I'd rather have the power and quietness than lack power and live in a wind tunnel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Wait, Are you saying that building these computers shouldn't be like building a F18 ? Since When









TCO


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostHitWall*
> 
> Hello EK club, I just needed to confirm the compatibility of EK-FB KIT GA X99 LE - Nickel and Gigabyte GA-X99M-Gaming 5
> 
> By cooling configurator, the motherboard is compatible with this block.
> But from the block's compatible list, it gives me "We are sorry, but the specified product could not be found. Please, contact our support."
> 
> Does anyone have the exact block and board installed?


Yes it should be compatible


----------



## GhostHitWall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> "EK-FB KIT GA X99 LE"
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109821344 shows for "GIGABYTE GA-X99M-Gaming 5 (rev. 1.0)" as "Visual" compatibility which means:
> 
> "EK have visually inspected the hardware and checked for compatibility with specific EK product (typically with internet images and CAD programm)."


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes it should be compatible


Thank you very much.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo.. What a sweet case...
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854013
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=phanteks+enthoo+primo+red&biw=1531&bih=905&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=sjFkVZ69KoaiyQTe24OQAQ&ved=0CB0QsAQ


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Get a case lab case and fill it up


Thanks guys!

I think I'm going to take the recommendation. I like the Case Labs idea especially!

Any cases from EK in the ST10/SM8 are in regard to size and rad capacity? I remember a while back EK began offering cases but have been out of the game since the Vulture was announced


----------



## darkangelism

Got my vardar F2s and my 970 waterblock yesterday, now just need my case to come in


----------



## Reaper28

Will the all black Vardar's be available to retailers? at the early release date, apparently later this month. Specifically the 2200K model


----------



## corysti

Need some help. What size extension do I need to add to my 90 degree elbow so I can line it up with the elbow on the ek ram block? I have the Evo cpu block


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Need some help. What size extension do I need to add to my 90 degree elbow so I can line it up with the elbow on the ek ram block? I have the Evo cpu block


A 30mm one


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Need some help. What size extension do I need to add to my 90 degree elbow so I can line it up with the elbow on the ek ram block? I have the Evo cpu block


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> A 30mm one


I received a valuable info, the 30mm extender is fine if the top you have is an acetal or plexi one. If the top is metal, the height differ but I don't know by how much.

Maybe @geggeg could tell us the height difference of the metal top compared to the non-metal ones. I don't have any metal top cpu block (yet







) so I can't measure them.


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I received a valuable info, the 30mm extender is fine if the top you have is an acetal or plexi one. If the top is metal, the height differ but I don't know by how much.
> 
> Maybe @geggeg could tell us the height difference of the metal top compared to the non-metal ones. I don't have any metal top cpu block (yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) so I can't measure them.


Thanks bud! I appreciate it.


----------



## VSG

Metal Evo top is ~2.6mm shorter than acetal/plexi ones

That @ thing has never worked for me btw, Akira. So best to send me a PM if you wanted something


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Metal Evo top is ~2.6mm shorter than acetal/plexi ones
> 
> That @ thing has never worked for me btw, Akira. So best to send me a PM if you wanted something


If you click the button between "Link" and "Video" then the user name it comes out like this @geggeg


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> If you click the button between "Link" and "Video" then the user name it comes out like this @geggeg


I meant I never get the notifications whenever someone does that to my username. I know how to do it lol. I have checked the options on my profile and made a few bug reports before but nothing.


----------



## Barefooter

Ok now I understand.


----------



## PCModderMike

I really miss the older EK compression fittings.









Below on the left is the older style which had a grip on it to tighten the fitting down. On the right is their new style called "advanced compression fitting" which is supposed to be low profile and inside of the fitting it is supposed to be keyed to fit an 8mm allen key.



In theory this sounds great. Stick the allen key inside the fitting and screw it onto your block, radiator, res, etc.
However either I'm going crazy, or all of the fittings I've received are defects, because I can't get ANY of the allen keys I own to fit.








8mm is too small, and 10mm is too big.
Also 5/16 is too small, and 3/8 is too big.
What gives @derickwm @akira749?


----------



## Domiro

Can't tell what size fitting you've got but 10/13mm and 10/16mm require the 8mm allen key. The larger 12/16mm and 13/19mm require a 9mm allen key.

Edit; Check the fitting's product page and the respective fitting size. Should say what allen key is needed.


----------



## darkangelism

What size fittings, their website says some sizes need 9mm allen key


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Can't tell what size fitting you've got but 10/13mm and 10/16mm require the 8mm allen key. The larger 12/16mm and 13/19mm require a 9mm allen key.
> 
> Edit; Check the fitting's product page and the respective fitting size. Should say what allen key is needed.


See the screenshot I took from the product page.It says 8mm is what's needed for all of their fittings. No mention of different sizes requiring a different allen key.

EDIT: This is from PPCs where I bought the fittings - http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-acf-compression-fitting-12-16mm-7-16-x-5-8-nickel.html#Details
The only size allen key they reference in the description and the specifications tab is 8mm. Going to EK's site right now the double check whether or not 9mm is needed. If it truly does require a 9mm PPCs needs to get on the ball and correct their page.
Of course the one size I don't have is 9mm.









2nd EDIT:
Sorry EK, your site does indeed say 9mm is required for 12/16mm fittings....now to rummage through the garage and see if I can find one.


----------



## Domiro

Both of these mention needing a 9mm allen key.

The 2 smaller sizes require an 8mm key, the two larger sizes a 9mm key. Your screenshot doesn't mention a specific size fitting, check what size fitting you've got first.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Both of these mention needing a 9mm allen key.
> 
> The 2 smaller sizes require an 8mm key, the two larger sizes a 9mm key. Your screenshot doesn't mention a specific size fitting, check what size fitting you've got first.


Here, better?


----------



## Domiro

I suspected yours needed the 9mm key because my HDC fittings did.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> I suspected yours needed the 9mm key because my HDC fittings did.


Yea. Well thanks for your input. +rep to the both of you.

Simple mistake, but frustrating to think you're prepared to do some work and then finding out last minute PPC's description was incorrect.


----------



## SteezyTN

Hey all. I have finally finished my Build log. Check it out









http://www.overclock.net/t/1549076/build-log-evga-titan-x-sli-4770k-xspc-primochill-petg-hard-tubing-revolver-corsair-750d


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Metal Evo top is ~2.6mm shorter than acetal/plexi ones
> 
> That @ thing has never worked for me btw, Akira. So best to send me a PM if you wanted something


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Yea. Well thanks for your input. +rep to the both of you.
> 
> Simple mistake, but frustrating to think you're prepared to do some work and then finding out last minute PPC's description was incorrect.


Sorry about this situation Mike









PPCS messed up the description for the bigger fittings.

If you can't find a 9mm we sell one and PPCS has it in stock : EK Allen Key 9mm

9mm Allen is a very weird size and I had to buy mine from the EK site because I couldn't find one locally.

The 9mm key is also useful for the extender ports on the PE rads.


----------



## Ceadderman

If you have a bit of painters/masking tape, I would suggest using a key 2mm smaller and using a bit to wrap the work end. You'd be amazed how well it works. Keeps the internals free of scratches and dings as well. So if you simply cannot wait, this is the way to go.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jumie

Finally I can join the club now


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks good. Like the cleanliness of your bends.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jumie*
> 
> Finally I can join the club now
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


750D ?

TCO


----------



## Jumie

No, its 350D


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Yea. Well thanks for your input. +rep to the both of you.
> 
> Simple mistake, but frustrating to think you're prepared to do some work and then finding out last minute PPC's description was incorrect.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about this situation Mike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PPCS messed up the description for the bigger fittings.
> 
> If you can't find a 9mm we sell one and PPCS has it in stock : EK Allen Key 9mm
> 
> 9mm Allen is a very weird size and I had to buy mine from the EK site because I couldn't find one locally.
> 
> The 9mm key is also useful for the extender ports on the PE rads.
Click to expand...

Thanks akira. Still trying to source one locally, but if I can't I'll end up ordering one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you have a bit of painters/masking tape, I would suggest using a key 2mm smaller and using a bit to wrap the work end. You'd be amazed how well it works. Keeps the internals free of scratches and dings as well. So if you simply cannot wait, this is the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Interesting idea. Guess if I really need to get it done I might try it. Thanks.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Wooot got my first batch of EK Vardars. 5 out of 16 and the other 11 just shipped. Cannot wait to install them!


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Wooot got my first batch of EK Vardars. 5 out of 16 and the other 11 just shipped. Cannot wait to install them!


Post back your experience! Thinking about grabbing 15-20 of them myself


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Post back your experience! Thinking about grabbing 15-20 of them myself


Hell yeah. I've done so much research on these thanks to sites like ThermalBench and ExtremeRigs and I really feel like they're amazing fans (just go through my post history, I praise them like like it's the 2nd coming of Christ). I opened one up a few minutes ago to check it out and it feels like a really sturdy fan, well built. Build quality is better than my SP120s IMO.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Hell yeah. I've done so much research on these thanks to sites like ThermalBench and ExtremeRigs and I really feel like they're amazing fans (just go through my post history, I praise them like like it's the 2nd coming of Christ). I opened one up a few minutes ago to check it out and it feels like a really sturdy fan, well built. Build quality is better than my SP120s IMO.


Any fan is better quaility than the over priced corsair fans. They look good this is all


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Any fan is better quaility than the over priced corsair fans. They look good this is all


BOOM GOTTEM. They aren't that bad given their cost and their stylish looks but I really feel like they're lacking in the performance department (they're just average from the reviews I've seen). One thing I'd like to do is get a Noiseblocker eLoop to compare to the Vardar as I've been chatting with @DMatthewStewart and he keeps talking about them having a different sound signature which makes them sound quieter than other fans despite being louder on paper.


----------



## darkangelism

On my supremacy evo waterblock I replaced the jetplate, but I am not entirely sure I did it right, I put it back in like the original one, is it possible for it to be in there and not secure? There doesn't seem like much room for it to be off, but I guess if my temps are really off I will drain it and pull it back apart.

edit:
gonna pull it back apart


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> BOOM GOTTEM. They aren't that bad given their cost and their stylish looks but I really feel like they're lacking in the performance department (they're just average from the reviews I've seen). One thing I'd like to do is get a Noiseblocker eLoop to compare to the Vardar as I've been chatting with @DMatthewStewart and he keeps talking about them having a different sound signature which makes them sound quieter than other fans despite being louder on paper.


I also like the noise blocker fans!!!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jumie*
> 
> No, its 350D


I was around the 350D forum yesterday and saw the build in there









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I also like the noise blocker fans!!!


If it wasn't against the law or dangerous I would try to make NB Eloop babies.







THey are soo sexy.

TCO


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I was around the 350D forum yesterday and saw the build in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it wasn't against the law or dangerous I would try to make NB Eloop babies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THey are soo sexy.
> 
> TCO


They do look sexy as hell. You can't get a better looking fan IMO.

And on a side note, I might be getting 38 AP-14s for $400 shipped :O As long as the seller still has them for sale







Should be able to make a couple hundred from reselling them XD


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I was around the 350D forum yesterday and saw the build in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it wasn't against the law or dangerous I would try to make NB Eloop babies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THey are soo sexy.
> 
> TCO


Dont get me wrong I think they are a very unique style of fan and they are nice but I just don't find them really find them to be the best looking fan around. I like simple design in a fan I guess. I have four e loops that have never been ran and I'm seriously thinking about selling them or trading them for a set of ek fans.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Dont get me wrong I think they are a very unique style of fan and they are nice but I just don't find them really find them to be the best looking fan around. I like simple design in a fan I guess. I have four e loops that have never been ran and I'm seriously thinking about selling them or trading them for a set of ek fans.


NB ELOOP 120mm White? Pm Me

TCO


----------



## Onyxian

Hey guys, not sure where to ask this. Say I want to get a GTX 980ti in the future for my watercooled build, I was going for EVGA with an EK waterblock anyway. What differences are there from getting a Hydrocopper (Assuming there will be one) and getting an EK block and backplate? Apart from looks, experience of installing myself, guessing higher cost compared to doing it myself. Is it basically just the rebranded same block and should not notice any performance difference?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> Hey guys, not sure where to ask this. Say I want to get a GTX 980ti in the future for my watercooled build, I was going for EVGA with an EK waterblock anyway. What differences are there from getting a Hydrocopper (Assuming there will be one) and getting an EK block and backplate? Apart from looks, experience of installing myself, guessing higher cost compared to doing it myself. Is it basically just the rebranded same block and should not notice any performance difference?


depends on if EK end up making the ti blocks or not. The regular 980 hydro copper does seem to be the regular EK block wiht a different faceplate, but if EVGA changes manufacturers again like the older hydro copper blocks it may end out entirelly different. If it remains EK then I would assue the design also remains the same across all reference 980ti blocks to, it is after all a waste of money to develop a different block for EVGA in the main block design that is.


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> depends on if EK end up making the ti blocks or not. The regular 980 hydro copper does seem to be the regular EK block wiht a different faceplate, but if EVGA changes manufacturers again like the older hydro copper blocks it may end out entirelly different. If it remains EK then I would assue the design also remains the same across all reference 980ti blocks to, it is after all a waste of money to develop a different block for EVGA in the main block design that is.


If this http://videocardz.com/55670/nvidia-geforce-gtx-980-ti-roundup is true then it is. Could always ask one of the EK people here on the forum if they can release that information anyway. We'll see how the 390x stacks up later, and if I like it then I'll have no choice but to install it myself.


----------



## akira749

The HydroCopper block uses the same cold plate as a regular EK block. Only the top differ


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Added the Blue.

TCO


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the Blue.
> 
> TCO


Very Nice.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Very Nice.


(Tip My Hat) I appreciate that.







Ready to take pics with a nice Nikon Tom (weather permitting)



This is from my little sony Cybershot

TCO


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> (Tip My Hat) I appreciate that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready to take pics with a nice Nikon Tom (weather permitting)
> 
> 
> 
> This is from my little sony Cybershot
> 
> TCO


The blue looks much better than the orange, even before the orange went bad. Awesome job man!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> The blue looks much better than the orange, *even before the orange went bad*. Awesome job man!










The Blue is taking the Show! I thought the Orange was the way to go at first... but then









TCO


----------



## amij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jumie*
> 
> Finally I can join the club now


How did you mount the pump?

I can see the foam below it but surely that can't be the only thing keeping it there...?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amij*
> 
> How did you mount the pump?
> 
> I can see the foam below it but surely that can't be the only thing keeping it there...?


Pretty sure it mounted to the radiator.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Alright. Put in my 5930K in yesterday and 4 of the EK Vardar fans. MAN they are quiet at 1850 RPM! Even more quiet than the SP120s at 1450.





Damn 980 Ti will be released before I end up putting the 2nd Kingpin in LOL


----------



## Reaper28

@xxdarkreap3rxx lol not too far behind you, I've only got my CPU block on and one of my two GPU blocks and my case is half assembled


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> (Tip My Hat) I appreciate that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready to take pics with a nice Nikon Tom (weather permitting)
> 
> 
> 
> This is from my little sony Cybershot
> 
> TCO










I like it aaaaalottttt!


----------



## Archea47

Any chance the 2xDDC kit is or will imminently be offered in any style other than black?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like it aaaaalottttt!










Maybe a Couple of these?



TCO


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Any chance the 2xDDC kit is or will imminently be offered in any style other than black?


No plans that I know of but I will check.


----------



## akira749

My EK-Vulture Lady Sif build is done!





More pictures in the build log!


----------



## VSG

Some pics of the upcoming EK XE480 rad:

































Need to do something about my light box though!


----------



## SteezyTN

Do you guys think the 980Ti PCB will be the same as the TX? If it is, I may return my TX's to TigerDirect and get the 980Ti.


----------



## fisher6

Do I need a inner tube in an EK tube (25cm) if I'm using this top, I want to use the top as inlet:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport.html

This is the inner tube I'm referring to: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-res-x3-series/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm.html


----------



## VSG

I am pretty sure it is, aside from the memory modules on the back. You got a day to wait for confirmations, so might as well.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Do I need a inner tube in an EK tube (25cm) if I'm using this top, I want to use the top as inlet:
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport.html
> 
> This is the inner tube I'm referring to: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-res-x3-series/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm.html


I have one for my build. My pump/res is almost at the lowest part of the loop. When I'm filling the loop with water, it gets to a certain point where the water fills back into the res and when the water level reaches the bottom of the tube, water starts going up the tube and into the tubing instead of (what I would think happens) the open ports at the top of the reservoir.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Some pics of the upcoming EK XE480 rad:


Awww damn it, recessed ports. I just had an "issue" with my multiport top and the recessed ports. My Bitspower barbs don't go in all the way (as they're BARELY wider) and I took the 5mm extender off from that inlet to use for my MOSFET block so I tried just the barb and my air gauge assembly was dropping PSI more quickly than usual. I could hear the air hissing around the barb and knew that was the reason. I tried another barb that was rounded at the bottom and it sat quite well in the recessed port:


----------



## VSG

I think this will help: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings/extenders-and-spacers/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-black.html


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Are they included with the radiator?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

One of my Favorite Shots. I just love the CSQ Polished to a glass look.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








TCO


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Are they included with the radiator?


Nope. The reason for one set of recessed ports is so they don't clash with the case/rad mount if the other set (non recessed, comes with extenders installed by default) is used). For those wanting to use these recessed ports as drain/fill ports or simply as part of the loop, they will need compatible fittings unfortunately.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Is that Nvidia SLI bridge 540 MHz pixel clock? I have one coming tomorrow. (looks sick BTW)


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nope. The reason for one set of recessed ports is so they don't clash with the case/rad mount if the other set (non recessed, comes with extenders installed by default) is used). For those wanting to use these recessed ports as drain/fill ports or simply as part of the loop, they will need compatible fittings unfortunately.


OOF. I didn't see that they had normal (non-recessed) ports as well. I need new contact lenses. Maybe once I stop buying blowing my entire paycheck on computer crap I can get some new ones.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Do you guys think the 980Ti PCB will be the same as the TX? If it is, I may return my TX's to TigerDirect and get the 980Ti.


The block is a tiny bit different for the 980Ti

As for the compatibility of a Titan X block on a 980Ti that I don't know yet.


----------



## VSG

I asked, and was told it will work no problem. Same PCB reference to reference after all, with the less memory modules being the only thing (and that's on the back).


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The block is a tiny bit different for the 980Ti
> 
> As for the compatibility of a Titan X block on a 980Ti that I don't know yet.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I asked, and was told it will work no problem. Same PCB reference to reference after all, with the less memory modules being the only thing (and that's on the back).


Sweet. If it is compatible, I may return my TX SLI Setup, assuming I'm not passed the return date. Then I could put the ~$600 towards a caselabs.


----------



## Onyxian

After seeing these reviews/prices... Are the EK Terminals compatible with the Hydrocoppers for SLI?


----------



## VSG

Hydrocopper terminals are longer and are slightly offset along the length compared to the standard EK blocks. This was because of EVGA wanting 6 ports and a different design as far as I know.


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hydrocopper terminals are longer and are slightly offset along the length compared to the standard EK blocks. This was because of EVGA wanting 6 ports and a different design as far as I know.


Ah, I guess this is what I get for trying to take the easy ways out. Now to look up other easy ways to connect two cards, seems way easier to do that than installing the blocks.


----------



## Archea47

Seriously frustrated that the Furious Vardars only come with red cabling ... would have very much preferred the light blades and especially black sleeving of the other 4 models.

Not sure what to get now

Has anyone ordered from PPCs with sleeved cables like the Vardar and had them re-sleeve at the standard price?


----------



## Ceadderman

I wouldn't do that. PPCs sleeving is pretty weak sauce tbh. Whenever I order I try to go bare wire an sleeve the cables myself.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wouldn't do that. PPCs sleeving is pretty weak sauce tbh. Whenever I order I try to go bare wire an sleeve the cables myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


This. Done my ap15s myself. Kinda cheating using sleeving from work though.









its seriously easy. You only need a small paper clip or staple to release the pins.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ceadderman

I invested in a $12 pin tool for my small connectors anew a couple brass pipes from MDPC crimped those together and sleeved the crimp to build my mole tool.

Yeah paperclips and staples are cheap but to get consistent results you should invest in a tool. I have used mine enough that they've paid for themselves 10x over.









~Ceadder


----------



## Archea47

Edit: NVM









I purchased 13 of the Furious Vardars with sleeving and heatshrink. Time to get some spray paint!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I invested in a $12 pin tool for my small connectors anew a couple brass pipes from MDPC crimped those together and sleeved the crimp to build my mole tool.
> 
> Yeah paperclips and staples are cheap but to get consistent results you should invest in a tool. I have used mine enough that they've paid for themselves 10x over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I own all the molex tools too. I just did not bother with it until I had more than a couple of fans to do.


----------



## Georgey123

Sooo are we expecting some 980 ti blocks this week from EK.....


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Sooo are we expecting some 980 ti blocks this week from EK.....


It has been stated by @Geggeg that the Titan x block will fit the reference 980 ti. Don't know about the AIB's. The teaser images floating around of the Asus 980ti are sweet. I am hoping for some Asus ROG matrix Platinum 980ti's and some EK blocks to match them.


----------



## fast_fate

XE 360 rad stripped and ready for paint











*EDIT:* compared to the PE 360 core


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> Hey guys, not sure where to ask this. Say I want to get a GTX 980ti in the future for my watercooled build, I was going for EVGA with an EK waterblock anyway. What differences are there from getting a Hydrocopper (Assuming there will be one) and getting an EK block and backplate? Apart from looks, experience of installing myself, guessing higher cost compared to doing it myself. Is it basically just the rebranded same block and should not notice any performance difference?


980 Ti block will be out shortly.

The EVGA 980 Ti HydroCopper is made by us and will hopefully be available to purchase at launch, but that's on EVGA at this point. Only major differences are aesthetics and if you want to install the block yourself etc.


----------



## Georgey123

Sweet, thanks for the info Derick


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Seriously frustrated that the Furious Vardars only come with red cabling ... would have very much preferred the light blades and especially black sleeving of the other 4 models.
> 
> Not sure what to get now
> 
> Has anyone ordered from PPCs with sleeved cables like the Vardar and had them re-sleeve at the standard price?


I have really been pleased with sleeving from ppc so if you don't want to do it yourself then get it!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wouldn't do that. PPCs sleeving is pretty weak sauce tbh. Whenever I order I try to go bare wire an sleeve the cables myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ppcs has goid sleeving on fans at least the black!! Seems like they use bitspower tight weave


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I have one for my build. My pump/res is almost at the lowest part of the loop. When I'm filling the loop with water, it gets to a certain point where the water fills back into the res and when the water level reaches the bottom of the tube, water starts going up the tube and into the tubing instead of (what I would think happens) the open ports at the top of the reservoir.


But is it something I need? I just wanna use one of the ports on top as inlet but I'm not sure if I should order the inner tube from EK or not. Thanks.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> But is it something I need? I just wanna use one of the ports on top as inlet but I'm not sure if I should order the inner tube from EK or not. Thanks.


I really can't tell you for certain but I can tell you this: When I'm filling my loop, the water level likes to stay equal. So if my res' inner tube is say 8" exactly from the bottom of my chassis and I have some tubing running from a bottom radiator to the top of the chassis, once the water from the tubing reaches past 8" and I stop the pump (since the res has been emptied), the reservoir slowly fills up and once it hits the bottom of the inner tube, the water starts going up the tube and into the tubing. The water level for the tubing above the res and above the bottom radiator's tubing is about the same. If you can afford the extra $2 or so that it is, I would get it just to be safe or wait until someone else can tell you for certain. Sorry I wasn't of much help but I had your same exact question a few weeks prior and couldn't find any information on it but bought it anyway.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I really can't tell you for certain but I can tell you this: When I'm filling my loop, the water level likes to stay equal. So if my res' inner tube is say 8" exactly from the bottom of my chassis and I have some tubing running from a bottom radiator to the top of the chassis, once the water from the tubing reaches past 8" and I stop the pump (since the res has been emptied), the reservoir slowly fills up and once it hits the bottom of the inner tube, the water starts going up the tube and into the tubing. The water level for the tubing above the res and above the bottom radiator's tubing is about the same. If you can afford the extra $2 or so that it is, I would get it just to be safe or wait until someone else can tell you for certain. Sorry I wasn't of much help but I had your same exact question a few weeks prior and couldn't find any information on it but bought it anyway.


Thanks for the reply. Someone in the WC gallery topic said I need it. I guess I will just order it since it's cheap. Just confusing because the description on EK's website says this:

"These tubes, which are sealed with quality NBR rubber gasket, allow the ports on EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP to be used as an outlet (suction) ports as well."

To me it sounds like you only need the inner tube if you want to use one of the ports on the TOP as outlet and for inlet you don't need it but I'm not certain at all. WIll just order it anyway


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. Someone in the WC gallery topic said I need it. I guess I will just order it since it's cheap. Just confusing because the description on EK's website says this:
> 
> "These tubes, which are sealed with quality NBR rubber gasket, allow the ports on EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP to be used as an outlet (suction) ports as well."
> 
> To me it sounds like you only need the inner tube if you want to use one of the ports on the TOP as outlet and for inlet you don't need it but I'm not certain at all. WIll just order it anyway


Best thing is to get the main part you need (Pump etc,) have it in your hands to be able to analyze and decide what to do next.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. Someone in the WC gallery topic said I need it. I guess I will just order it since it's cheap. Just confusing because the description on EK's website says this:
> 
> "These tubes, which are sealed with quality NBR rubber gasket, allow the ports on EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP to be used as an outlet (suction) ports as well."
> 
> To me it sounds like you only need the inner tube if you want to use one of the ports on the TOP as outlet and for inlet you don't need it but I'm not certain at all. WIll just order it anyway


From What I was told. It's something you should have. It keeps air from getting to the pump or being sucked into the reservior. I was always told you don't have to have the res filled all the way but it is a must to have above the inner tube as to not suck air into the loop


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Fro
> What I was told. It's something you should have. It keeps air from getting to the pump or being sucked into the reservior. I was always told you don't have to have the res filled all the way but it a a must to have above the inner tube as to not suck air into the loop


I'm sorry, how does that even make sense?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I'm sorry, how does that even make sense?


What do you mean. And like I said it was something I was told. I'm honestly not 100 percent sure. But the inner tube is there for a reason not just for show. Specially if using get top as an inlet


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Like do you have a diagram? I'm trying to picture it in my head but it doesn't make sense to me. How would it keep air from getting into the pump?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I'm sorry, how does that even make sense?


Don't even worry about it, If you have a res that has the ability to have a drop down tube from the Inlet, The consumer should get it, and fill the water level above the tube. Fluid dropping out of the tube into water below it will grab air and in turn put air in the loop.



Both of my Bitspower Reservoirs are filled above the Inlet tube for that reason.

TCO


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

What, like tiny bubbles? I've never noticed it as I was filling my reservoir up and the water level was below the tube. Only use I've seen for it was to prevent the water from overflowing out the top.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> What, like tiny bubbles? I've never noticed it as I was filling my reservoir up and the water level was below the tube. Only use I've seen for it was to prevent the water from overflowing out the top.


That is correct in a sense. But when water falls and breaks a waterline it seems to pull O2 as well. If you have water that falls beneath the surface it doesn't pull O2.







Then you can eliminate bubbles.

TCO (At least from my experience)

Where is one of my videos




Look about 30sec in at the clear loop and all of the bubbles that are in it due to the water breaking the surface


----------



## fisher6

@TheCautiousOne I already have the pump. I have the D5 + tube res combo from EK. I'm just buying a longer tube (250mm) since it will look better imo and a new top so I can use one of the port as inlet. I will buy the inside tube just in case. I'm ordering from the official EK store.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

That's a huge drop. I have the tiny XRES140 kit so there's only like 3" total between the bottom and top. I never noticed any bubbles as the drop between the inner tube and water surface couldn't be more than like an inch or so. Does the same thing happen when the tube is 1" from the water's surface?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> That's a huge drop. I have the tiny XRES140 kit so there's only like 3" total between the bottom and top. I never noticed any bubbles as the drop between the inner tube and water surface couldn't be more than like an inch or so. Does the same thing happen when the tube is 1" from the water's surface?


The Drop has an effect yes, as far as the concept goes I would believe it remains the same. If you are only an inch from the surface why wouldn't you just fill it up?

TCo


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Drop has an effect yes, as far as the concept goes I would believe it remains the same. If you are only an inch from the surface why wouldn't you just fill it up?
> 
> TCo


So bottom line I should get the inner tube and make sure it's under the water surface.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> So bottom line I should get the inner tube and make sure it's under the water surface.


IF you could







It would help your pump get all the air out of the system. Simply Put

TCO


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> IF you could
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would help your pump get all the air out of the system. Simply Put
> 
> TCO


I'm not taking any chances







Would be funny if when I start building I realize I need it and have to wait another week to get it like when you realize you don't have enough/wrong fittings. Thanks for all the help guys.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I'm not taking any chances
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would be funny if when I start building I realize I need it and have to wait another week to get it like when you realize you don't have enough/wrong fittings. Thanks for all the help guys.


No Problem mate, most of us have already been there!

TCO


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Drop has an effect yes, as far as the concept goes I would believe it remains the same. If you are only an inch from the surface why wouldn't you just fill it up?
> 
> TCo


No, no. I do fill it up all the way. I was just using it as an example saying that I've never seen that (bubbles forming from the drop) in my reservoir but it's a tiny one so there's no possible way to get such a large drop like yours.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> No, no. I do fill it up all the way. I was just using it as an example saying that I've never seen that (bubbles forming from the drop) in my reservoir but it's a tiny one so there's no possible way to get such a large drop like yours.


I understand!

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Seriously frustrated that the Furious Vardars only come with red cabling ... would have very much preferred the light blades and especially black sleeving of the other 4 models.
> 
> Not sure what to get now
> 
> Has anyone ordered from PPCs with sleeved cables like the Vardar and had them re-sleeve at the standard price?
> 
> 
> 
> I have really been pleased with sleeving from ppc so if you don't want to do it yourself then get it!!!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wouldn't do that. PPCs sleeving is pretty weak sauce tbh. Whenever I order I try to go bare wire an sleeve the cables myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ppcs has goid sleeving on fans at least the black!! Seems like they use bitspower tight weave
Click to expand...

Ummm no bruh, they don't. They don't do a good job on sleeving at all. I am not running them down but no way no how. Sleeving cables isn't only about putting some sleeve on. Their shrink tube applications look rushed every time I get something that I cannot get with bare cables. Mole is the easiest to sleeve and the last one I got all four cables were sleeved, but they all were held in place by a single st at each end. Not 4 separate but 1 shrink tube. That socks imho.

~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

I think this is not a correct description of the ek xres ddc 140.
Quote:


> This top features three G1/4 threaded ports of which one is inlet and two are outlets.


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-ddc/ek-xres-140-ddc-acetal.html

Does it really have two outlets? I just ordered one of those and that seems backwards. Is it correct?

All the Xres tops list inlets/outlets that way.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I think this is not a correct description of the ek xres ddc 140.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-ddc/ek-xres-140-ddc-acetal.html
> 
> Does it really have two outlets? I just ordered one of those and that seems backwards. Is it correct?


According to their documentation for the installation of the unit here: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109842676.pdf

"The OUTLET port (pressure port) is clearly marked with label 'OUT' engraved on the pump top housing. The INLET port(s) (suction port) are the two recessed ports with G1/4 threading on the EK-XRES DDCfront face plane. You may use any of these two ports as an INLET port. It is necessary to use the enclosed EK-Extender G1/4 underneath the INLET fitting! Please refer to the picture on the right! Do not forget to close off the unused INLET port using EK-Plug G1/4!"


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> According to their documentation for the installation of the unit here: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109842676.pdf
> 
> "The OUTLET port (pressure port) is clearly marked with label 'OUT' engraved on the pump top housing. The INLET port(s) (suction port) are the two recessed ports with G1/4 threading on the EK-XRES DDCfront face plane. You may use any of these two ports as an INLET port. It is necessary to use the enclosed EK-Extender G1/4 underneath the INLET fitting! Please refer to the picture on the right! Do not forget to close off the unused INLET port using EK-Plug G1/4!"


then the ekwb. com description is wrong and the performancepcs description is wrong.

Thanks.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Yup. Hopefully they see it and can fix the issue for future buyers.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Seriously frustrated that the Furious Vardars only come with red cabling ... would have very much preferred the light blades and especially black sleeving of the other 4 models.
> 
> Not sure what to get now
> 
> Has anyone ordered from PPCs with sleeved cables like the Vardar and had them re-sleeve at the standard price?
> 
> 
> 
> I have really been pleased with sleeving from ppc so if you don't want to do it yourself then get it!!!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wouldn't do that. PPCs sleeving is pretty weak sauce tbh. Whenever I order I try to go bare wire an sleeve the cables myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ppcs has goid sleeving on fans at least the black!! Seems like they use bitspower tight weave
Click to expand...

I'm always reading your posts as you yelling because of the amount of exclamation marks you use.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I'm always reading your posts as you yelling because of the amount of exclamation marks you use.


?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I think this is not a correct description of the ek xres ddc 140.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-ddc/ek-xres-140-ddc-acetal.html
> 
> Does it really have two outlets? I just ordered one of those and that seems backwards. Is it correct?
> 
> All the Xres tops list inlets/outlets that way.


Thanks for seeing this! I will let the guys know.









The instruction sheet is right 1 outlet and 2 inlets. It's the website description that is wrong.


----------



## dilster97

Are the GTX 980 Classified K|NGP|N blocks the newly revised version? The one that shouldn't have mounting issues with the revision 1.1 and 1.2 cards?

Or is there much point in asking since the big focus is the GTX 980Ti?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> Are the GTX 980 Classified K|NGP|N blocks the newly revised version? The one that shouldn't have mounting issues with the revision 1.1 and 1.2 cards?
> 
> Or is there much point in asking since the big focus is the GTX 980Ti?


Yes, all new


----------



## Panther Al

Hopefully EVGA won't change the card after the fact with the New Kingpin 980ti they teased a short while ago.


----------



## Kimir

Would be good if they keep the same PCB, so EK can use the same block indeed.


----------



## VSG

Different die, different amount of memory. If anything, it would be closer to the 780Ti KPE if they use double density chips now as seems to be the case.


----------



## SteezyTN

Okay, I know I posted this, and it's been posted too. I just want to double check... The TX waterblocks and backplates will fit the 980Ti Reference PCB right?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay, I know I posted this, and it's been posted too. I just want to double check... The TX waterblocks and backplates will fit the 980Ti Reference PCB right?


Yes mate. Just like Titan blocks fitted 780's and 780ti blocks fit Titan black. Nvidia don't need to make multiple PCB designs for what is the same thing.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. Someone in the WC gallery topic said I need it. I guess I will just order it since it's cheap. Just confusing because the description on EK's website says this:
> 
> "These tubes, which are sealed with quality NBR rubber gasket, allow the ports on EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP to be used as an outlet (suction) ports as well."
> 
> To me it sounds like you only need the inner tube if you want to use one of the ports on the TOP as outlet and for inlet you don't need it but I'm not certain at all. WIll just order it anyway


You can use it without the internal tube but it means that unless the res is kept absolutely full there will be a trickling water sound and when the pump is stopped air will enter the res inlet and travel to anything that is plumbed in before it, and the res level will rise as fluid drains from anything above it..
Its not vital but it is a very good idea and very cheap.

The tube creates a sort of air lock as long as the res level is above the bottom of the inner tube. With it in place you can open the top of the res and nothing can happen. Without it, if you open the top of the res then there is no air lock effect and its possible for example if you had a radiator above the res, all the water from the rad can drain down and overflow the res.

All good reservoirs designed for top inlet will have one, they aren't just for decoration. Its the sort of thing that once you see how it works it makes total sense but isn't something you would obviously think of.


----------



## akira749

Originally there was suppose to be a 980Ti block but since the Titan X waterblock is compatible, it will be used has the official waterblock for the 980Ti.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Originally there was suppose to be a 980Ti block but since the Titan X waterblock is compatible, it will be used has the official waterblock for the 980Ti.


What's about the non-reference model's ?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> What's about the non-reference model's ?


Asus (Strix), Gigabyte (Gaming G1) and MSI (Gaming 6G) should have blocks but not ETA yet.

EVGA I don't know for now.


----------



## Kimir

That doesn't make sense to me, EK has a partnership for the hydro copper block, yet the classy/Kingpin block are always late compared to say, strix one, huh. Are they slowpoke to give a card?


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Asus (Strix), Gigabyte (Gaming G1) and MSI (Gaming 6G) should have blocks but not ETA yet.
> 
> EVGA I don't know for now.


Thanks for the Info !


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Originally there was suppose to be a 980Ti block but since the Titan X waterblock is compatible, it will be used has the official waterblock for the 980Ti.


Okay good. I returned one Titan X, so now I have one block and backplate sitting around. Instead of losing money on it, I think I'll return the second TX, and get two Ti's.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> That doesn't make sense to me, EK has a partnership for the hydro copper block, yet the classy/Kingpin block are always late compared to say, strix one, huh. Are they slowpoke to give a card?


It's a mystery for me too...

They must be slow at sending cards or digital files.


----------



## bigporl

Anybody know if the original Titan/GTX 780 & 780ti original CSQ waterblocks fit the new titan x and 980ti


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay good. I returned one Titan X, so now I have one block and backplate sitting around. Instead of losing money on it, I think I'll return the second TX, and get two Ti's.


Lol do you know what you want to do????


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> Anybody know if the original Titan/GTX 780 & 780ti original CSQ waterblocks fit the new titan x and 980ti


I don't think they do.


----------



## bigporl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I don't think they do.


Im sure there is a post somewhere of somebody using one on a Titan X


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Lol do you know what you want to do????


Now I do. Lol. I'm just going to return the second TX and get two Ti's. I know it sounds ridiculous, but I'm just an average gamer. I was stupid for getting the two TX's in the first place haha.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Now I do. Lol. I'm just going to return the second TX and get two Ti's. I know it sounds ridiculous, but I'm just an average gamer. I was stupid for getting the two TX's in the first place haha.


If your just an average gamer and Using 1080p or 1440p or less just get two 980s and oc them and from your post you seem more into the building right now so I would save some money and put some to a new case. Bc at the end of day you seem to care more about the looks of the build (which isn't a bad thing at all so do I) so two 970 or 980 unless 4k will give you plenty of good fps for any gaming. Plus we all know you'll update before they start to show there age anyways, we all do lol. That or you have a nice build just save and go big case labs next time around. I know the itch is always wanting to be scratched


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> If your just an average gamer and Using 1080p or 1440p or less just get two 980s and oc them and from your post you seem more into the building right now so I would save some money and put some to a new case. Bc at the end of day you seem to care more about the looks of the build (which isn't a bad thing at all so do I) so two 970 or 980 unless 4k will give you plenty of good fps for any gaming. Plus we all know you'll update before they start to show there age anyways, we all do lol. That or you have a nice build just save and go big case labs next time around. I know the itch is always wanting to be scratched


Well the Ti's are the only thing I'm looking at, mainly because I already have the TX waterblocks. When tigerdirect brings the Ti into stock, I'm going to grab 2.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I think this is not a correct description of the ek xres ddc 140.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-ddc/ek-xres-140-ddc-acetal.html
> 
> Does it really have two outlets? I just ordered one of those and that seems backwards. Is it correct?
> 
> All the Xres tops list inlets/outlets that way.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Thanks for seeing this! I will let the guys know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The instruction sheet is right 1 outlet and 2 inlets. It's the website description that is wrong.


The descriptions in our webshop have been fixed.

Thanks again for the heads-up


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The descriptions in our webshop have been fixed.
> 
> Thanks again for the heads-up


no problem


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Put back together and filled. Got my Prolima Tech 15mm fans installed which are super quiet btw while having good airflow over the EK PE radiators. This is just a test run till I get my new mid-panel and a few other odds and ends to finally finish


----------



## Jumie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amij*
> 
> How did you mount the pump?
> 
> I can see the foam below it but surely that can't be the only thing keeping it there...?


Hi, sorry for late reply. I mounted the pump to the rad using fan grill. it was inspired by Paul's hardware build on his Arctic Panther build. the foam was to absorb vibration


----------



## Georgey123

New XE rads are available









http://www.ekwb.com/news/596/19/EK-releases-new-EK-CoolStream-XE-radiators/

and an awesome review as usual from xtremerigs


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> New XE rads are available
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/596/19/EK-releases-new-EK-CoolStream-XE-radiators/
> 
> and an awesome review as usual from xtremerigs


Grrr, the 5 new (non-EK) rads I ordered last weekend are already in transit

Congrats EK on the xtremerigs results!


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Why no 140mm variants?


----------



## Kimir

It's planned, like the vardar 140mm are coming soon.


----------



## BugBash

Hi EK Club,

Been an overclocker since 1992 (No BIOS tweeks back then!)
TOTAL NOOB when it comes to watercooling! Running a 94C 290X has forced my hand....

My EK 290X DCII block arrived today, have just been looking at it, seems to have a slight ridge in the middle where the GPU die would be, looking at the piccys on the EK site, you can just make out
the shape (lighter colour) that the ridge has, like its been machined from each side but not all the way across.

Is this Normal? Is my Noobness showing? I would have thought it would be mirror flat like a CPU block/heatsink.

Your thoughts please!!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BugBash*
> 
> Hi EK Club,
> 
> Been an overclocker since 1992 (No BIOS tweeks back then!)
> TOTAL NOOB when it comes to watercooling! Running a 94C 290X has forced my hand....
> 
> My EK 290X DCII block arrived today, have just been looking at it, seems to have a slight ridge in the middle where the GPU die would be, looking at the piccys on the EK site, you can just make out
> the shape (lighter colour) that the ridge has, like its been machined from each side but not all the way across.
> 
> Is this Normal? Is my Noobness showing? I would have thought it would be mirror flat like a CPU block/heatsink.
> 
> Your thoughts please!!


Can you take a picture of it?


----------



## BugBash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Can you take a picture of it?


I have been trying, reluctant to break the seal on the bag if it would need returning.
My camera is old and crap and just gets reflections.
Also tried the video option but its resolution is way too low.

If you look at pic 2 from the link,

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-dcii-acetal-nickel.html

you can just make out the machining, a U 1/3rd the way from the top of the GPU DIE bit reaching about halfway down. lighter on the right and darker on the left.
mine looks the same, I will borrow a camera from work tomorrow see if I can do any better..


----------



## Ceadderman

Break the seal. Make sure to document that seal was intact and then take pics of the issue. Time stamps will make them credible.









~Ceadder


----------



## BugBash

Maybe Im just a Noob?









Skip along to 2:10 you can see what I mean, I could not do any better with the camera equipment I have.
.


----------



## Reaper28

I kind of went around this question before, but it still bothers me lol. How come for some of the 970/980 Acrylic blocks you guys didn't extend it to cover the entire PCB like you did with the CSQ blocks? I'm assuming it wasn't to cut costs because you cover the entire PCB with the CSQ and acetal blocks


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I kind of went around this question before, but it still bothers me lol. How come for some of the 970/980 Acrylic blocks you guys didn't extend it to cover the entire PCB like you did with the CSQ blocks? I'm assuming it wasn't to cut costs because you cover the entire PCB with the CSQ and acetal blocks


It's to cut costs. when you produce 1000 block and u save on the raw material. they can add up. I've asked Koolance about this regarding their 290X block and they answered that way. and i believe ek did it for the same reason.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> It's to cut costs. when you produce 1000 block and u save on the raw material. they can add up. I've asked Koolance about this regarding their 290X block and they answered that way. and i believe ek did it for the same reason.


Wouldn't it cost more to make a CSQ block with the acrylic have a design on it then just plane acrylic?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BugBash*
> 
> Maybe Im just a Noob?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skip along to 2:10 you can see what I mean, I could not do any better with the camera equipment I have.
> .


You're gonna have to get a pic of it somehow. Using a video of someone else's block isn't gonna tell anybody anything. Do you have access to a Cell Phone? Use that to document your issue. Most phones have flash enabled so I would take an angeled shot.

Its okay to be a noob. We are all noobs at something.









~Ceadder


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Nom nom nom. Slowly replacing the SP120s day by day


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I kind of went around this question before, but it still bothers me lol. How come for some of the 970/980 Acrylic blocks you guys didn't extend it to cover the entire PCB like you did with the CSQ blocks? I'm assuming it wasn't to cut costs because you cover the entire PCB with the CSQ and acetal blocks


Yeah I know what you mean. I really wanted all Nickel/Plexi blocks and also wanted full PCB cover for my 980 so I settled for Nickel/Acetal. Oh well. I'm running just plain distilled water and colored acrylic tubing anyway and all black fits my build better


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I kind of went around this question before, but it still bothers me lol. How come for some of the 970/980 Acrylic blocks you guys didn't extend it to cover the entire PCB like you did with the CSQ blocks? I'm assuming it wasn't to cut costs because you cover the entire PCB with the CSQ and acetal blocks


EK have said that when they did make a full coverage clear acrylic top for the titan se blocks that they didn't sell well and it didn't look as good as they wanted. Covering a pcb with completely transparent material doesn't improve looks because everything is still plainly visible and just traps heat close to pcb components.

Full coverage tops do look good when done properly like the acetal versions but they do increase the likelihood that small changes to the pcb will make the block incompatible. That was one of the reasons Koolance provided for why they reverted to short blocks for the 290x v2


----------



## f1schu

Hi there guys!
I just got my first EK product, an Acrylic/nickle monoblock for my R5E and when trying to fit the block to the board the screw holes would not line up. I removed the block to inspect it and I could see that the southbridge part of the monoblock wasn't square to the main part of the block like it should be and was obviously causing my alignment issues. On closer inspection I found the acrylic cracked on the corner next to one of the blots that attach the block together. It looked to me like it had been dropped or something but there is no damage to the packaging at all so I don't think it happened during shipping.
Anyway I contacted EK to get a replacement sent out but they are refusing to send me a brand new sealed replacement and are insisting they will just repair the damaged block and send it back.
Am I alone in thinking after paying over £100 for a product that then arrives damaged its only fair that they just send me another new one as that's what I've paid for. Why should I now have to wait for them to repair the damaged one? That's just bs customer service if you ask me and as a first time EK customer im less than impressed. Especially after dealing with companies like NZXT that actually care about their customers.
What do you guys think? Would you settle for having to pay yet another £16 to return it to EK and then wait while they repair the damage and send it back or would you, like me, expect a complete brand new replacement to be sent out as soon as they receive the damaged one back.


----------



## SteezyTN

So I'm a little curious. I already have a D5 pump (vario, wish it was PWM), and I'm planning on getting a second for dual pump (1 loop) because I'm going to be running a 560, 480, 360, and 240 radiators (1 CPU and 2 GPU's). I'm looking at getting this top.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/ek-d5-dual-top-g1-4-csq-black-acetal.html

However, I would like to use two reservoirs. I know there is the top that makes it where you can use a reservoir combo, but is it possible to make it by using two reservoirs? Adding two of these?

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/ek-xtop-dual-d5-xres-upgrade-link.html

Does any of that make sense? Basically I would like a combo where I can have two reservoirs.


----------



## Ceadderman

Can't be done that way. But you can do two single pump res combos and plumb them in series.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Okay, so what you mean is buy the single tops, right? Then connect the two? How exactly do you connect them in a serial?

I can't believe I didn't think about that lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Connect the Outlet from one top to the Res Inlet of the other. Problem solved.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jakusonfire

I would be very interested to see how that might affect the transfer of pressure from pump one to pump two.
I suspect it could be less than ideal.


----------



## catbuster

I have question why EK doesnt make white rads?







I think they would sell a lot of them







Maybe they have plans for it?


----------



## Ceadderman

Because you can now dismantle them and paint them to your choice of color.









~Ceadder


----------



## catbuster

Of course u can







still white rads should be optional







i really like the xspc ax white rads, sadly they dont fit my case, gonna buy EK PE rads and would love to get them in white.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I kind of went around this question before, but it still bothers me lol. How come for some of the 970/980 Acrylic blocks you guys didn't extend it to cover the entire PCB like you did with the CSQ blocks? I'm assuming it wasn't to cut costs because you cover the entire PCB with the CSQ and acetal blocks


Have you seen what a complete acrylic block looks like?










Ugly as sin


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Have you seen what a complete acrylic block looks like?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ugly as sin


I personally like it at least once it's lit up, to me it makes the glow more intense. I do hate the steel piece in the middle which every manufacturer seems to do. I was personally going to go with XSPC because their blocks covered the entire PCB and the acrylic seems thicker and looked better lit up but I'm going with EK because of quality, support and temp performance.









EDIT**, EK block for the Titan. I know it's not exactly comparing the same thing, but I like the look of the acrylic covering the PCB even though there is two GPU's lol 

Are your Vardar's blades white? or is it just the camera


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Are your Vardar's blades white? or is it just the camera


Camera. Some of them seem to be making a buzzing sound though so I will need to RMA them -.- I installed those four yesterday and tested them first. One out of the five I tested had the buzzing.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Well the Ti's are the only thing I'm looking at, mainly because I already have the TX waterblocks. When tigerdirect brings the Ti into stock, I'm going to grab 2.


I too am waiting on TigerDirect. I wish they would take on liquid cooling supplies.

Anyhow, do we know if there will be a 980ti matrix block made? The strix is ok I suppose but if there are plans for an EK 980ti matrix block then I will wait.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> I too am waiting on TigerDirect. I wish they would take on liquid cooling supplies.
> 
> Anyhow, do we know if there will be a 980ti matrix block made? The strix is ok I suppose but if there are plans for an EK 980ti matrix block then I will wait.


Why TigerDirect?


----------



## Dagamus NM

Purchase orders. FrozenCPU used to take PO's. I am not going to bother trying to setup using PO's with PPCs. The 980ti's will be used in a work build.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I would be very interested to see how that might affect the transfer of pressure from pump one to pump two.
> I suspect it could be less than ideal.


Actually it helps increase flow and pressure, by putting the pumps in series like this


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> I too am waiting on TigerDirect. I wish they would take on liquid cooling supplies.
> 
> Anyhow, do we know if there will be a 980ti matrix block made? The strix is ok I suppose but if there are plans for an EK 980ti matrix block then I will wait.


Asus didn't even announce if there would be a 980Ti Matrix so for now the answer is no.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1schu*
> 
> Hi there guys!
> I just got my first EK product, an Acrylic/nickle monoblock for my R5E and when trying to fit the block to the board the screw holes would not line up. I removed the block to inspect it and I could see that the southbridge part of the monoblock wasn't square to the main part of the block like it should be and was obviously causing my alignment issues. On closer inspection I found the acrylic cracked on the corner next to one of the blots that attach the block together. It looked to me like it had been dropped or something but there is no damage to the packaging at all so I don't think it happened during shipping.
> Anyway I contacted EK to get a replacement sent out but they are refusing to send me a brand new sealed replacement and are insisting they will just repair the damaged block and send it back.
> Am I alone in thinking after paying over £100 for a product that then arrives damaged its only fair that they just send me another new one as that's what I've paid for. Why should I now have to wait for them to repair the damaged one? That's just bs customer service if you ask me and as a first time EK customer im less than impressed. Especially after dealing with companies like NZXT that actually care about their customers.
> What do you guys think? Would you settle for having to pay yet another £16 to return it to EK and then wait while they repair the damage and send it back or would you, like me, expect a complete brand new replacement to be sent out as soon as they receive the damaged one back.


It's an RMA process. They need to check it and once done they will most probably send you a brand new one once the RMA is approved.

We don't necessarily "repair" blocks...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Actually it helps increase flow and pressure, by putting the pumps in series like this


Yes, of course two pumps in series do, what I was refering to was having a reservoir in between two pumps. Just as air bubbles in loops can cause flow problems having a res in between the series pumps is effectively placing a permanent bubble in the loop. I'm interested if it could have a neg effect.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yes, of course two pumps in series do, what I was refering to was having a reservoir in between two pumps. Just as air bubbles in loops can cause flow problems having a res in between the series pumps is effectively placing a permanent bubble in the loop. I'm interested if it could have a neg effect.


I have it done in my build and do not see any negative effect from it!!


----------



## Anateus

Any news on upcoming 140mm Vardars?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Any news on upcoming 140mm Vardars?


I'm calling it. Vardar 140s in 1-2 months, CoolStream XE 140/280/420 rads in 3-4 months and within 6, we should see thermalbench and xtremerigs "round-up" reviews of 420mm rads. I have a strong feeling the community may shift gears away from 120mm radiator variants and move onto 140mm radiator variants. The performance to noise ratio that the 140s offer is too good to pass up but I haven't seen enough data on 420mm radiators to know if any of them are superior to the 480mm rads currently out there.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I'm calling it. Vardar 140s in 1-2 months, CoolStream XE 140/280/420 rads in 3-4 months and within 6, we should see thermalbench and xtremerigs "round-up" reviews of 420mm rads. I have a strong feeling the community may shift gears away from 120mm radiator variants and move onto 140mm radiator variants. The performance to noise ratio that the 140s offer is too good to pass up but I haven't seen enough data on 420mm radiators to know if any of them are superior to the 480mm rads currently out there.


140mm Vardars are definitely not 1-2 months away, the 140mm rads are also not that far away (and they not the XE but rather a new line) either. But yeah, I am jumping the gun already and going with all 560mm rads where I had 480mm rads before in mind.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 140mm Vardars are definitely not 1-2 months away, the 140mm rads are also not that far away (and they not the XE but rather a new line) either. But yeah, I am jumping the gun already and going with all 560mm rads where I had 480mm rads before in mind.


So 140mm rads in 1-2 months and 140mm Vardars in 3-4 months?







I was actually a bit upset when I saw your review of the 140mm Vardars since I just purchased 16 new 120mm ones.

@ 150 FPM: 120mm = ~33 dB and 140mm = ~29 dB
A 420 is basically the same as a 480 (area wise) so you can save some cash by not having to buy 2 extra fans for push/pull and you get a quieter setup
33 dB 8 fans = 42.02 dB total vs 29 dB 6 fans = 36.77 dB
Hell, a 560 can still net you a quieter setup with 8 fans total: 38.02 dB! That's 4 dB less AND the area is way greater so you're getting even better performance at lower noise levels:

Code:



Code:


480mm x 120mm = 57,600mm²
560mm x 140mm = 78,400mm²


----------



## f1schu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's an RMA process. They need to check it and once done they will most probably send you a brand new one once the RMA is approved.
> 
> We don't necessarily "repair" blocks...


Hi there, this is what I was told via email. quote

"Unfortunately we cannot send you a replacement. If the 90% of the product is OK, just one bit is broken we usualy replace just that bit and send the waterblock back, especially if the waterblock has as many pieces as the R5E monoblock has.

I will put some pressure on the production staff so they repair the product asap and send it back with DHL, which takes 3 days max to deliver."

Sorry but that isn't good enough. I paid just over £100 for a brand new working block and received a damaged unusable one instead. My whole build has to be put on hold because of this and then to make things even better I then have to pay out £16 to send the damaged block back and when I ask via email if a new replacement block can be sent out as soon as the old one is received as it was holding up my build, I am told the above.
I have updated my rma to say that I will only accept a brand new sealed replacement or a full refund including the extra £16 shipping charge.
Now just have to hope EK do the right thing or it will be my first and last purchase.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I'm calling it. Vardar 140s in 1-2 months, CoolStream XE 140/280/420 rads in 3-4 months and within 6, we should see thermalbench and xtremerigs "round-up" reviews of 420mm rads. I have a strong feeling the community may shift gears away from 120mm radiator variants and move onto 140mm radiator variants. The performance to noise ratio that the 140s offer is too good to pass up but I haven't seen enough data on 420mm radiators to know if any of them are superior to the 480mm rads currently out there.


I went with a 280 rad when I added my GPU into my loop recently and I have been really impressed with the cooling to noise ratio. The surface area of a 140 variant is just awesome. I'm using AF140's and they usually only run around 650 RPM with a 10-60c temp curve controlling them. I would love to replace them with all black Vardar 140's and see if I can't squeeze the same or better performance with even less noise.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I went with a 280 rad when I added my GPU into my loop recently and I have been really impressed with the cooling to noise ratio. The surface area of a 140 variant is just awesome. I'm using AF140's and they usually only run around 650 RPM with a 10-60c temp curve controlling them. I would love to replace them with all black Vardar 140's and see if I can't squeeze the same or better performance with even less noise.


Hehe. Take a look @ that graph above. The Vardar 140s are compared against the SP140s which are the static pressure versions of the AF140, *i.e. designed for radiator use*. So you'd definitely be able to get less noise out of your setup going with Vardars.


----------



## szeged

More EK blocks and bitspower fittings arrived for the build. Decided to leave the mobo on air but still block the ram, didnt want it getting too crowded.

Garbage quality lighting but its not final picture time so who cares.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> I too am waiting on TigerDirect. I wish they would take on liquid cooling supplies.
> 
> Anyhow, do we know if there will be a 980ti matrix block made? The strix is ok I suppose but if there are plans for an EK 980ti matrix block then I will wait.


There might be a DCU-III-Version: Click










EK CoolStream XE 360mm Radiator Review


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1schu*
> 
> Hi there, this is what I was told via email. quote
> 
> "Unfortunately we cannot send you a replacement. If the 90% of the product is OK, just one bit is broken we usualy replace just that bit and send the waterblock back, especially if the waterblock has as many pieces as the R5E monoblock has.
> 
> I will put some pressure on the production staff so they repair the product asap and send it back with DHL, which takes 3 days max to deliver."
> 
> Sorry but that isn't good enough. I paid just over £100 for a brand new working block and received a damaged unusable one instead. My whole build has to be put on hold because of this and then to make things even better I then have to pay out £16 to send the damaged block back and when I ask via email if a new replacement block can be sent out as soon as the old one is received as it was holding up my build, I am told the above.
> I have updated my rma to say that I will only accept a brand new sealed replacement or a full refund including the extra £16 shipping charge.
> Now just have to hope EK do the right thing or it will be my first and last purchase.


It sounds to me like EK is doing everything they can to right the wrong. I purposely bought acetyl because plexi in blocks have a reputation of cracking regardless of the vendor. I think you should give EK an opportunity to at least see the block and decide the best way to proceed. I'm sure if you are kind with their representatives they will do everything they can to help. I understand your frustration, we've all been there. Keep us posted on how things proceed.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> There might be a DCU-III-Version: Click
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK CoolStream XE 360mm Radiator Review


Yes, it could be the DC3. Kind of a waste since the cooler will be tossed aside for a waterblock. But for the month that it is on there (I move very slow) it should provide some airflow.

It is too bad that NVidia reference on a card like the Titan x or 980ti does not have as robust VRMs as AIBs. Otherwise I would just get the reference cards as the water locks are a confirmed fit, no worries about board revisions etc. I have been burned by this three times in the past and when doing four cards at a time that is a total of 12 worthless blocks. I have no patience for selling things online so 8/12 sit unused and the other four were put on cards purchased to fit the blocks. Neither are cost effective so it makes choosing reference or not tough.

Thank you Akira, I was hoping that maybe you all with EK had heard something in regards to a matrix card. I guess I will hold my breath. Fun things in the month of June for a graphics junkie.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> It sounds to me like EK is doing everything they can to right the wrong. I purposely bought acetyl because plexi in blocks have a reputation of cracking regardless of the vendor. I think you should give EK an opportunity to at least see the block and decide the best way to proceed. I'm sure *if you are kind with their representatives they will do everything they can to help*. I understand your frustration, we've all been there. Keep us posted on how things proceed.


True....and being called BS right before I can even try to sort things out and help him is kind of a turn-off for me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Yes, it could be the DC3. Kind of a waste since the cooler will be tossed aside for a waterblock. But for the month that it is on there (I move very slow) it should provide some airflow.
> 
> It is too bad that NVidia reference on a card like the Titan x or 980ti does not have as robust VRMs as AIBs. Otherwise I would just get the reference cards as the water locks are a confirmed fit, no worries about board revisions etc. I have been burned by this three times in the past and when doing four cards at a time that is a total of 12 worthless blocks. I have no patience for selling things online so 8/12 sit unused and the other four were put on cards purchased to fit the blocks. Neither are cost effective so it makes choosing reference or not tough.
> 
> Thank you Akira, I was hoping that maybe you all with EK had heard something in regards to a matrix card. I guess I will hold my breath. Fun things in the month of June for a graphics junkie.












As of now we don't know anything about a Matrix. I'm pretty sure Asus will let the Strix go on sale first and release a Matrix later. But even then it doesn't mean we will do a matrix block.

Like it happened with the 980. We have a 980 Strix block but no 980 Matrix block.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1schu*
> 
> Hi there, this is what I was told via email. quote
> 
> "Unfortunately we cannot send you a replacement. If the 90% of the product is OK, just one bit is broken we usualy replace just that bit and send the waterblock back, especially if the waterblock has as many pieces as the R5E monoblock has.
> 
> I will put some pressure on the production staff so they repair the product asap and send it back with DHL, which takes 3 days max to deliver."
> 
> Sorry but that isn't good enough. I paid just over £100 for a brand new working block and received a damaged unusable one instead. My whole build has to be put on hold because of this and then to make things even better I then have to pay out £16 to send the damaged block back and when I ask via email if a new replacement block can be sent out as soon as the old one is received as it was holding up my build, I am told the above.
> I have updated my rma to say that I will only accept a brand new sealed replacement or a full refund including the extra £16 shipping charge.
> Now just have to hope EK do the right thing or it will be my first and last purchase.


And how would you know if it was a different block or just the same block repaired and resealed? There would be absolutely no difference. Its just a matter of changing the damaged part. If there is a problem with your car under warranty do you demand a new one too?
Motherboard blocks are very small production runs and they may not have them sitting around, especially if they are in the middle of a new GPU run. So small in fact that they make very little money on them if at all and do it more for the community to have matching components.
If there is a bigger problem that was causing the fitment issues you mentioned then without doubt they will supply a new one.

This is a niche hobby with a small number of players that has been experiencing a boom in demand. Even some retailers have taken the attitude that if customers are unreasonably demanding or nooby that they would rather not have their business.
Be careful of making threats or your bluff might be called. I would anyway.

EK support is some of the best in the business. In the past they have gone as far as sending replacement parts out for people to change out themselves to avoid delays and shipping but a large and complex block like this with the problems you mentioned just has to be examined.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Yes, it could be the DC3. Kind of a waste since the cooler will be tossed aside for a waterblock. But for the month that it is on there (I move very slow) it should provide some airflow.
> 
> It is too bad that NVidia reference on a card like the Titan x or 980ti does not have as robust VRMs as AIBs. Otherwise I would just get the reference cards as the water locks are a confirmed fit, no worries about board revisions etc. I have been burned by this three times in the past and when doing four cards at a time that is a total of 12 worthless blocks. I have no patience for selling things online so 8/12 sit unused and the other four were put on cards purchased to fit the blocks. Neither are cost effective so it makes choosing reference or not tough.
> 
> Thank you Akira, I was hoping that maybe you all with EK had heard something in regards to a matrix card. I guess I will hold my breath. Fun things in the month of June for a graphics junkie.


Maybe wait for the Poseidon: ASUS ROG GTX 980 Ti Poseidon or for an EVGA Hydro Copper / Hybrid: EVGA GTX980-Ti-Model's

I will have to wait and see which model's will be available here in or for Oz. The 1x GPU per household restriction doesn't make things easier.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> The 1x GPU per household restriction doesn't make things easier.


lolll

I would be so sad if that was true....I currently have 9 GPU's in operation and 2 in the boxes for sale


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> lolll
> 
> I would be so sad if that was true....I currently have 9 GPU's in operation and 2 in the boxes for sale


It's unfortunately true: @PCCG and @umart.com.au has it as well, but their site seems to be down atm.

PS: Luckily you can buy some more somewhere else, but it's always a bit of a gamble, if you try to get several same models from different shop's.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> It's unfortunately true: @PCCG and @umart.com.au has it as well, but their site seems to be down atm.
> 
> PS: Luckily you can buy some more somewhere else, but it's always a bit of a gamble, if you try to get several same models from different shop's.


Are you saying you can't have more than 1 graphics card in your home???????


----------



## f1schu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> True....and being called BS right before I can even try to sort things out and help him is kind of a turn-off for me.


Didn't call you anything just posted what I was told by email which kinda contradicted what you said. Didn't mean any offence so take it as you will bro.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> And how would you know if it was a different block or just the same block repaired and resealed? There would be absolutely no difference. Its just a matter of changing the damaged part. If there is a problem with your car under warranty do you demand a new one too?
> Motherboard blocks are very small production runs and they may not have them sitting around, especially if they are in the middle of a new GPU run. So small in fact that they make very little money on them if at all and do it more for the community to have matching components.
> If there is a bigger problem that was causing the ttment issues you mentioned then without doubt they will supply a new one.
> 
> This is a niche hobby with a small number of players that has been experiencing a boom in demand. Even some retailers have taken the attitude that if customers are unreasonably demanding or nooby that they would rather not have their business.
> Be careful of making threats or your bluff might be called. I would anyway.
> 
> EK support is some of the best in the business. In the past they have gone as far as sending replacement parts out for people to change out themselves to avoid delays and shipping but a large and complex block like this with the problems you mentioned just has to be examined.


I'm not bluffing about anything, a full refund would be fine by me as I will just buy another from somewhere else.

I understand some of what you're saying and had this block had failed due to user error or a few months after install then I'd be happy with a repair and having to pay for the shipping to return it.
But this is a brand new item that arrived damaged with no sign of the package being dropped or anything.
Why should I then have to shell out yet more money to send it back and have to wait while it is then inspected and repaired.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1schu*
> 
> Hi there guys!
> I just got my first EK product, an Acrylic/nickle monoblock for my R5E and when trying to fit the block to the board the screw holes would not line up. I removed the block to inspect it and I could see that the southbridge part of the monoblock wasn't square to the main part of the block like it should be and was obviously causing my alignment issues. On closer inspection I found the acrylic cracked on the corner next to one of the blots that attach the block together. It looked to me like it had been dropped or something but there is no damage to the packaging at all so I don't think it happened during shipping.
> Anyway I contacted EK to get a replacement sent out but they are refusing to send me a brand new sealed replacement and are insisting they will just repair the damaged block and send it back.
> Am I alone in thinking after paying over £100 for a product that then arrives damaged its only fair that they just send me another new one as that's what I've paid for. Why should I now have to wait for them to repair the damaged one? *That's just bs customer service if you ask me* and as a first time EK customer im less than impressed. Especially after dealing with companies like NZXT that actually care about their customers.
> What do you guys think? Would you settle for having to pay yet another £16 to return it to EK and then wait while they repair the damage and send it back or would you, like me, expect a complete brand new replacement to be sent out as soon as they receive the damaged one back.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1schu*
> 
> Didn't call you anything just posted what I was told by email which kinda contradicted what you said. Didn't mean any offence so take it as you will bro.


And what's the bolded text from your first post say?


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Are you saying you can't have more than 1 graphics card in your home???????


You can have more than 1 GPU, but the shops restrict at the moment the amount you can buy to 1 per customer / household.

Even EVGA has a limit of 3 per household for some of their models: click

Most likely, because they can't get the 980-Ti's in large numbers.


----------



## anotheraznguy

Just got all the pieces for my loop and am slowly installing everything. Sadly i ran into 1 hiccup so far.



Apparently one of the 4 m4x5 rubber isolators came unthreaded. Looks like i am just going to have to wait for EK


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> You can have more than 1 GPU, but the shops restrict at the moment the amount you can buy to 1 per customer / household.
> 
> Even EVGA has a limit of 3 per household for some of their models: click
> 
> Most likely, because they can't get the 980-Ti's in large numbers.


Has to suck if it truly is one per household as a number of homes have multiple gamers in them..


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Has to suck if it truly is one per household as a number of homes have multiple gamers in them..


Yeah.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> You can have more than 1 GPU, but the shops restrict at the moment the amount you can buy to 1 per customer / household.
> 
> Even EVGA has a limit of 3 per household for some of their models: click
> 
> Most likely, because they can't get the 980-Ti's in large numbers.


Wow ok! That's a bummer









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> Just got all the pieces for my loop and am slowly installing everything. Sadly i ran into 1 hiccup so far.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently one of the 4 m4x5 rubber isolators came unthreaded. Looks like i am just going to have to wait for EK


Damn









Did you open a ticket on the EK website about it?

One thing that could also be done is to have it threaded if you know someone who has a metric "tap & die" kit.


----------



## Daggi

I'm not sure if anyone have asked about it before, but does EK have a nice looking draining valve?


----------



## anotheraznguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Damn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you open a ticket on the EK website about it?
> 
> One thing that could also be done is to have it threaded if you know someone who has a metric "tap & die" kit.


Yup opened a ticket, i tried using the m4 x .75 die that i have and since it is an isolating bushing, there is not way to get it tapped without it moving all over the place. Since the male / female threads arent actually connected.

For now i just have 3 of them in while i wait for a resolution so i can get to plumbing the hard line


----------



## f1schu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> And what's the bolded text from your first post say?


Yep, I said that what I was told via email is 'bs customer service' as indeed it is. I did not however say it in relation to yourself!

Here is a good example for ya.
A few years ago I paid £900 for a new plasma tv. When i got it home and switched it on there was a line of dead pixels across the screen. I returned it to the shop I got it from who unlike EK paid for the shipping instead of making me pay to send the damaged tv back. They didn't turn round and say 'sorry about that, pay for the postage and send it back to us, then wait a week while we test/repair it and we will send it back'. Instead they paid for the return shipping and sent out a brand new replacement that same day. Thats customer service that isn't bs.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1schu*
> 
> Yep, I said that what I was told via email is 'bs customer service' as indeed it is. I did not however say it in relation to yourself!
> 
> Here is a good example for ya.
> A few years ago I paid £900 for a new plasma tv. When i got it home and switched it on there was a line of dead pixels across the screen. I returned it to the shop I got it from who unlike EK paid for the shipping instead of making me pay to send the damaged tv back. They didn't turn round and say 'sorry about that, pay for the postage and send it back to us, then wait a week while we test/repair it and we will send it back'. Instead they paid for the return shipping and sent out a brand new replacement that same day. Thats customer service that isn't bs.


You must be new to a niche-products market.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I'm not sure if anyone have asked about it before, but does EK have a nice looking draining valve?


Yes it's been asked by many (myself included loll) and we will have our drain valve and a few other specialty fittings released during the summer









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> Yup opened a ticket, i tried using the m4 x .75 die that i have and since it is an isolating bushing, there is not way to get it tapped without it moving all over the place. Since the male / female threads arent actually connected.
> 
> For now i just have 3 of them in while i wait for a resolution so i can get to plumbing the hard line
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ah Ok









Anyway, your did the right thing by opening the ticket it will be sorted out soon. And we will send you the missing parts.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1schu*
> 
> Yep, I said that what I was told via email is 'bs customer service' as indeed it is. I did not however say it in relation to yourself!
> 
> Here is a good example for ya.
> A few years ago I paid £900 for a new plasma tv. When i got it home and switched it on there was a line of dead pixels across the screen. I returned it to the shop I got it from who unlike EK paid for the shipping instead of making me pay to send the damaged tv back. They didn't turn round and say 'sorry about that, pay for the postage and send it back to us, then wait a week while we test/repair it and we will send it back'. Instead they paid for the return shipping and sent out a brand new replacement that same day. Thats customer service that isn't bs.


Maybe the TV world is different, but in the PC universe (components and cooling gear), unless you're on a VIP program or something like that, when you RMA something, you must return the package at your own expense most of the time.

I'm sorry you feel so angry about this...

As you mentioned, you will get rid of the waterblock because of that and go with another brand.

I know only one other brand that sells a waterblock for the RVE....maybe they have a better CS

Best of luck f1schu and again sorry that this issue kicked that hard on you.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> Just got all the pieces for my loop and am slowly installing everything. Sadly i ran into 1 hiccup so far.
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently one of the 4 m4x5 rubber isolators came unthreaded. Looks like i am just going to have to wait for EK


i'm now so sad to see those beautiful Slovenian girls put a wrong piece in the packaging. J/k


----------



## SteezyTN

So I have the backplates attached to my Titan X's. I have the memory OC'd to 7600. When I touch the back of the backplate at any place, it's SO HOT. If I leave it there for 5 seconds, I can't leave it any longer. It almost feels like I'm putting my hand on the stove. Does this sound right?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I have the backplates attached to my Titan X's. I have the memory OC'd to 7600. When I touch the back of the backplate at any place, it's SO HOT. If I leave it there for 5 seconds, I can't leave it any longer. It almost feels like I'm putting my hand on the stove. Does this sound right?


My Titan X's are OC'ed at 1476MHz on the clock and the memory is stock and I can't barely touch my backplate too so no worries. Under load those beasts heat


----------



## Ceadderman

Ummmm *heat*sink?









Touch a heatsink on an unmodded MB. Youwch!










:Edit: When you guys coming out with Xflow rads?

I will be getting two 360s (EK ofc Since they are 25mm thick units) instead of HWL stealths. But with no Xflow in your stable, I may have to go with theirs for my horizontal unit for no other reason than simplifying my loop.

My build has to be completed before November's PDXLan so I'm in a bit of a time crunch of sorts. Have my table an this thing is gonna be there come hades or highwater.









~Ceadder


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i'm now so sad to see those beautiful Slovenian girls put a wrong piece in the packaging. J/k


I think you're the first person I've seen that's actually said that haha


----------



## Buehlar

*Just finishing up my 3rd build using EKWB.







*
*EK-Supremacy EVO CPU- Nickle Plexi
EK-FC970 GTX Full Cover - Nickel Plexi
EK-FC970 GTX Backplate - Nickel*


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

So I installed my Vardars and video card terminal yesterday. Looks like I need some spacers to get the fan in on the bottom rad. Two of the fans have a really annoying noise so I'll be getting them replaced.



On a another note, really awesome fans! I bought 38 Gentle Typhoon AP-14s to resell and when I got them I debated on switching to those. I tested a GT in open air and was amazed how much more quiet they were than the Vardars. Then I remembered the Vardar thread and the YouTube videos on them. They were tested in open air and some people called the guy an idiot because they're radiator fans so I slapped a GT on the rad and compared the two. Well, I think you can tell which fans I'm going with by the above picture


----------



## BugBash

Managed to borrow a camera, MUCH better than mine
Here are a couple pics:





*It feels flat running a fingernail over, just in the light at angles just seems slightly raised...*

In the video at 2:10, the block looks the same(machined)
.




.
Im guessing this is normal and Im just being noob?


----------



## tiborrr12

It's normal, this is a diamond tip fi32mm polishing head going over the contact surface for final touch.

The diamond tipped tooling leave distinctive circular marks but the main point of using it is to make contact surface 100% FLAT.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> *Just finishing up my 3rd build using EKWB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> *EK-Supremacy EVO CPU- Nickle Plexi
> EK-FC970 GTX Full Cover - Nickel Plexi
> EK-FC970 GTX Backplate - Nickel*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow. That looks great! I never thought of using the xres on its side. Is that rally a 970? It looks a little short.


----------



## snef

last Update for Gold Wings

The Movie


----------



## Archea47

Masterwork snef, keep raising the bar!


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> last Update for Gold Wings
> 
> The Movie


Paging @Ramzinho for a translation @ 25 seconds into the video. Thanks


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> *Just finishing up my 3rd build using EKWB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> *EK-Supremacy EVO CPU- Nickle Plexi
> EK-FC970 GTX Full Cover - Nickel Plexi
> EK-FC970 GTX Backplate - Nickel*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow. That looks great! I never thought of using the xres on its side. Is that rally a 970? It looks a little short.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

Yes sir. It's an EVGA Superclocked


----------



## Archea47

Here come those Furious _Vardars_!



And here with the EK Dual D5 setup:


A couple more F5s to be ordered yet. I haven't spun them up but quality of packaging and the fan itself appears pretty impressive


----------



## WerePug

Not sure if this is good form, but is there any approximate ETA on non-ref 980ti water blocks, namely the Gigabyte G1? I know that some non-ref 980 and 970 cards had their blocks released up to several months later.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WerePug*
> 
> Not sure if this is good form, but is there any approximate ETA on non-ref 980ti water blocks, namely the Gigabyte G1? I know that some non-ref 980 and 970 cards had their blocks released up to several months later.


It's in our list of cards that we intend to have a block but for now I can't give you any ETA sadly.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's in our list of cards that we intend to have a block but for now I can't give you any ETA sadly.


What other custom PCB models for the 980 Ti have planned blocks? Thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> What other custom PCB models for the 980 Ti have planned blocks? Thanks


So far we should have, Asus Strix, Gigabyte Gaming G1, MSI 6G Gaming. No news for the EVGA's


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Awesome, will be getting a Strix if the Fury Nano/XT/Pro are no good.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Awesome, will be getting a Strix if the Fury Nano/XT/Pro are no good.


I can't wait to see the Strix too. I will most likely jump on a pair of them


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

I didn't even know the Strix was good until a few days ago. People were mentioning it in the 980 Ti KPE thread and when I went to see top Fire Strike scores, Strix was high up there. I PM'd jpmboy asking him about it and he said "the strix has a different VRM and buck controller that was user accessible for voltage. It also had a bios by shimino that was one of the best ever." For $30 over reference, it seems like the way to go over the Classified. The only thing though, since the 980 Ti is a beefier card, it may not be as amazing this time around but I still think it will kick ass.

Also, would you recommend using something like this http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-holder-50-70.html to make XRES-140 D5 vertically mounted?


----------



## BugBash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> It's normal, this is a diamond tip fi32mm polishing head going over the contact surface for final touch.
> 
> The diamond tipped tooling leave distinctive circular marks but the main point of using it is to make contact surface 100% FLAT.


Phew!
Thanks for clearing that up for me Tiborrr!
Im currently putting together my shopping list for my next payday. The only problem at the moment is that I cant find your *CRYSTAL CLEAR* Primoflex LRT tubing on the *scan.co.uk* site!!








Maybe I will give them a call tomorrow, see If i can rectify that..


----------



## Ceadderman

I asked earlier maybe it got missed. Crossflow Rad? Yay or nay?









If one is scheduled to release before November, I will hold a spot in my build. I really would like all my 360s to match and since I am going with PEs so I can do Em up right. I'd like to know if I can put a XFlow in the top and have it match... so if there isn't one can we get one? I will be the guinea pig if one is needed.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Sharing some pics with the club,many of you will have already seen these.

















All done by hand by myself,no farming out.

Needs another D5 and a XE rad tho!


----------



## andl




----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I didn't even know the Strix was good until a few days ago. People were mentioning it in the 980 Ti KPE thread and when I went to see top Fire Strike scores, Strix was high up there. I PM'd jpmboy asking him about it and he said "the strix has a different VRM and buck controller that was user accessible for voltage. It also had a bios by shimino that was one of the best ever." For $30 over reference, it seems like the way to go over the Classified. The only thing though, since the 980 Ti is a beefier card, it may not be as amazing this time around but I still think it will kick ass.
> 
> Also, would you recommend using something like this http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-holder-50-70.html to make XRES-140 D5 vertically mounted?


You make me want the Strix even more









Yes, the uni holder that you linked would work. Also, you could mount it on a 120mm fan with this : EK-UNI Pump Holder (120mm FAN)


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's in our list of cards that we intend to have a block but for now I can't give you any ETA sadly.


Yes you can give an eta.... Soon *tm*


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Yes you can give an eta.... Soon *tm*


I could but I would have to pay 2$ to @derickwm


----------



## VSG

Lol I see no one is spared from the licensing


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@akira749

I am looking into the 970 EVGA ( 04G-P4-2972-KR ) and I can get the clear 970 full block for it but will the Nickle Backplate fit? Performance Pcs lists the backplate as compatible if the 970 is an ACX but I would like to double check with you.

The *Cautious* One

TCO


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I could but I would have to pay 2$ to @derickwm


Pay him in dollarama chocolate loonies?







.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> I am looking into the 970 EVGA ( 04G-P4-2972-KR ) and I can get the clear 970 full block for it but will the Nickle Backplate fit? Performance Pcs lists the backplate as compatible if the 970 is an ACX but I would like to double check with you.
> 
> The *Cautious* One
> 
> TCO


Unfortunately no PPCs is right about the backplate.

If you want the backplate, you will have to go with one of these.

04G-P4-0972
04G-P4-2978 which I doubt you will find since it's mostly the 3978 that it's on the market and this one is not compatible with our block.
04G-P4-0974
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Lol I see no one is spared from the licensing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Pay him in dollarama chocolate loonies?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


lollllll


----------



## f1schu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> Maybe the TV world is different, but in the PC universe (components and cooling gear), unless you're on a VIP program or something like that, when you RMA something, you must return the package at your own expense most of the time.
> 
> I'm sorry you feel so angry about this...
> 
> As you mentioned, you will get rid of the waterblock because of that and go with another brand.
> 
> I know only one other brand that sells a waterblock for the RVE....maybe they have a better CS
> 
> Best of luck f1schu and again sorry that this issue kicked that hard on you.


I'm just a bit annoyed, wouldn't say I felt 'kicked hard' by this issue as you put it.
To be frank I'm just not used to paying over £100 for something and it arriving damaged and then having to pay to return it, then wait for a repair.
Here in the uk its the seller that is liable for any return shipping costs of faulty or damaged goods and in nearly all my experience, when its a brand new item they have just replaced it, no questions asked, no extra shipping costs and no waiting for the damaged item to be repaired which is of course the right thing to do becuase after all, you are paying for a brand new fully working product and thats what you should recieve and at no extra cost to the original amount agreed at the time of sale.
Why should you have to pay to return it?
Why should you have to wait for it to be repaired?
Fair enough if its a used item that has failed after a few months, but not before you even get the thing out of the box.
I don't know, maybe im expecting too much but when i pay for an item I don't expect to have to then pay to return it and wait for it to be repaired and sent back before I even get to use it.

Also I think you misunderstood what I meant when I said about a refund.
I said I would be happy with a full refund because then I could order another, either from the EK store again, or another retailer. That way I wouldn't of had to wait for the damaged one to be repaired.
I could ofc say 'screw it' and go for the bitspower block instead but I prefer the look of the EK one so I guess I'll wait for the repair but if its not like brand new when it gets here it will be going back for a full refund, including all shipping costs but im hoping it wont come to that as I just want to get my build finished as soon as possible.

Also just wanted to point out that acording to the sale of goods act and the consumer rights act here in the UK (which also applies to goods purchased anywhere in the EU so im told) states the following.

Returning faulty goods

If you receive faulty goods and wish to return them, The Consumer Contracts Regulations are in addition to your other legal rights.
So, if your goods are faulty and don't do what they're supposed to, or don't match the description given, you have the same consumer rights under the Sale of Goods Act as you have when buying in store.
*Any terms and conditions that say you must cover the cost of returning an item wouldn't apply where the goods being returned are faulty.*

So really I should not of had to pay any extra for the return shipping and it is in fact EK that is liable for all return shipping charges, but hey whatever, all I want is a brand new condition, un-damaged, working block to get my build finished which is the only thing I wanted to begin with.

Anyways hope I can get it returned to me by the end of this week and I'll be happy


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1schu*
> 
> I'm just a bit annoyed, wouldn't say I felt 'kicked hard' by this issue as you put it.
> To be frank I'm just not used to paying over £100 for something and it arriving damaged and then having to pay to return it, then wait for a repair.
> Here in the uk its the seller that is liable for any return shipping costs of faulty or damaged goods and in nearly all my experience, when its a brand new item they have just replaced it, no questions asked, no extra shipping costs and no waiting for the damaged item to be repaired which is of course the right thing to do becuase after all, you are paying for a brand new fully working product and thats what you should recieve and at no extra cost to the original amount agreed at the time of sale.
> Why should you have to pay to return it?
> Why should you have to wait for it to be repaired?
> Fair enough if its a used item that has failed after a few months, but not before you even get the thing out of the box.
> I don't know, maybe im expecting too much but when i pay for an item I don't expect to have to then pay to return it and wait for it to be repaired and sent back before I even get to use it.
> 
> Also I think you misunderstood what I meant when I said about a refund.
> I said I would be happy with a full refund because then I could order another, either from the EK store again, or another retailer. That way I wouldn't of had to wait for the damaged one to be repaired.
> I could ofc say 'screw it' and go for the bitspower block instead but I prefer the look of the EK one so I guess I'll wait for the repair but if its not like brand new when it gets here it will be going back for a full refund, including all shipping costs but im hoping it wont come to that as I just want to get my build finished as soon as possible.
> 
> Also just wanted to point out that acording to the sale of goods act and the consumer rights act here in the UK (which also applies to goods purchased anywhere in the EU so im told) states the following.
> 
> Returning faulty goods
> 
> If you receive faulty goods and wish to return them, The Consumer Contracts Regulations are in addition to your other legal rights.
> So, if your goods are faulty and don't do what they're supposed to, or don't match the description given, you have the same consumer rights under the Sale of Goods Act as you have when buying in store.
> *Any terms and conditions that say you must cover the cost of returning an item wouldn't apply where the goods being returned are faulty.*
> 
> *So really I should not of had to pay any extra for the return shipping and it is in fact EK that is liable for all return shipping charges, but hey whatever, all I want is a brand new condition, un-damaged, working block to get my build finished which is the only thing I wanted to begin with.
> *
> Anyways hope I can get it returned to me by the end of this week and I'll be happy


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/customer-service/

I understand your frustration, but reading the companies direct policy will save you the trouble in the future.
Your buying from EK, so at the end of the day you should be aware of their policy, not everything that you mentioned.
Their website clearly states their policy on shipping charges and rma, if this is an issue with the consumer contracts regulations and your legal rights then this forum isn't the place to complain about it, right?
I'd personally be more upset on how that block got a QC sticker on it than anything, but that's just me.

At the end of the day, there is a written policy for a reason but EK will go out of their way to keep a customer happy.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Unfortunately no PPCs is right about the backplate.
> 
> If you want the backplate, you will have to go with one of these.
> 
> 04G-P4-0972
> 04G-P4-2978 which I doubt you will find since it's mostly the 3978 that it's on the market and this one is not compatible with our block.
> *04G-P4-0974*
> lollllll


That's a deal. I bookmarked them.







Going to that card compared to a 970 ACX 2.0 will cost another 140$ I like how your getting me to spend money.

The Cautious One


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1schu*
> 
> I'm just a bit annoyed, wouldn't say I felt 'kicked hard' by this issue as you put it.
> To be frank I'm just not used to paying over £100 for something and it arriving damaged and then having to pay to return it, then wait for a repair.
> Here in the uk its the seller that is liable for any return shipping costs of faulty or damaged goods and in nearly all my experience, when its a brand new item they have just replaced it, no questions asked, no extra shipping costs and no waiting for the damaged item to be repaired which is of course the right thing to do becuase after all, you are paying for a brand new fully working product and thats what you should recieve and at no extra cost to the original amount agreed at the time of sale.
> Why should you have to pay to return it?
> Why should you have to wait for it to be repaired?
> Fair enough if its a used item that has failed after a few months, but not before you even get the thing out of the box.
> I don't know, maybe im expecting too much but when i pay for an item I don't expect to have to then pay to return it and wait for it to be repaired and sent back before I even get to use it.
> 
> Also I think you misunderstood what I meant when I said about a refund.
> I said I would be happy with a full refund because then I could order another, either from the EK store again, or another retailer. That way I wouldn't of had to wait for the damaged one to be repaired.
> I could ofc say 'screw it' and go for the bitspower block instead but I prefer the look of the EK one so I guess I'll wait for the repair but if its not like brand new when it gets here it will be going back for a full refund, including all shipping costs but im hoping it wont come to that as I just want to get my build finished as soon as possible.
> 
> Also just wanted to point out that acording to the sale of goods act and the consumer rights act here in the UK (which also applies to goods purchased anywhere in the EU so im told) states the following.
> 
> Returning faulty goods
> 
> If you receive faulty goods and wish to return them, The Consumer Contracts Regulations are in addition to your other legal rights.
> So, if your goods are faulty and don't do what they're supposed to, or don't match the description given, you have the same consumer rights under the Sale of Goods Act as you have when buying in store.
> *Any terms and conditions that say you must cover the cost of returning an item wouldn't apply where the goods being returned are faulty.*
> 
> So really I should not of had to pay any extra for the return shipping and it is in fact EK that is liable for all return shipping charges, but hey whatever, all I want is a brand new condition, un-damaged, working block to get my build finished which is the only thing I wanted to begin with.
> 
> Anyways hope I can get it returned to me by the end of this week and I'll be happy


Agreed on all points, well put. Hoping for the best resolution to your issue - it's scary going Direct gives this treatment. This doesn't fly in the rest of the tech biz. I'll continue to order through the channel - I still need the EK parts


----------



## TK421

Just a question, if we can directly channel water to the cpu die/silicon without shorting it, would it increase thermal performance?

So instead of

die -> paste -> waterblock -> water

it would be

die (sealed) -> direct water

???


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Just a question, if we can directly channel water to the cpu die/silicon without shorting it, would it increase thermal performance?
> 
> So instead of
> 
> die -> paste -> waterblock -> water
> 
> it would be
> 
> die (sealed) -> direct water
> 
> ???


Interesting question

Don't forget that the water blocks (cpu and gpu die at least) have an array of thin fins that increase the surface area of the block


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sharing some pics with the club,many of you will have already seen these.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All done by hand by myself,no farming out.
> 
> Needs another D5 and a XE rad tho!


Can I request those three pictures left visible in higher res (1440p or even better 4K) with HeretEK logo of the door in a corner, for wallpaper pupose?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Yup,I can do this for you.

To the guy regarding returns in the UK,you are 100% right,its the responsibility of the retailer to pay for all transport costs in regards to a faulty item. I f you want to sell in the UK then these rulings supersede the manufacturers guidelines.

I don't know whether its EU wide however.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup,I can do this for you.
> 
> To the guy regarding returns in the UK,you are 100% right,its the responsibility of the retailer to pay for all transport costs in regards to a faulty item. I f you want to sell in the UK then these rulings supersede the manufacturers guidelines.
> 
> I don't know whether its EU wide however.


A quick google shows that Slovenia is also signed up to EU directive Associated Guarantees Directive 99/44/EC

In particular article 3
Quote:


> Article 3
> 
> Rights of the consumer
> 
> 1. The seller shall be liable to the consumer for any lack of conformity which exists at the time the goods were delivered.
> 
> 2. *In the case of a lack of conformity, the consumer shall be entitled to have the goods brought into conformity free of charge* by repair or replacement, in accordance with paragraph 3, or to have an appropriate reduction made in the price or the contract rescinded with regard to those goods, in accordance with paragraphs 5 and 6.
> 
> 3. In the first place, the consumer may require the seller to repair the goods or he may require the seller to replace them, in either case free of charge, unless this is impossible or disproportionate.
> 
> A remedy shall be deemed to be disproportionate if it imposes costs on the seller which, in comparison with the alternative remedy, are unreasonable, taking into account:
> 
> - the value the goods would have if there were no lack of conformity,
> 
> - the significance of the lack of conformity, and
> 
> - whether the alternative remedy could be completed without significant inconvenience to the consumer.
> 
> Any repair or replacement shall be completed within a reasonable time and without any significant inconvenience to the consumer, taking account of the nature of the goods and the purpose for which the consumer required the goods.
> 
> 4. *The terms "free of charge" in paragraphs 2 and 3 refer to the necessary costs incurred to bring the goods into conformity, particularly the cost of postage, labour and materials.
> *
> 5. The consumer may require an appropriate reduction of the price or have the contract rescinded:
> 
> - if the consumer is entitled to neither repair nor replacement, or
> 
> - if the seller has not completed the remedy within a reasonable time, or
> 
> - if the seller has not completed the remedy without significant inconvenience to the consumer.
> 
> 6. *The consumer is not entitled to have the contract rescinded if the lack of conformity is minor*.


I've bolded what I consider relevant.

Basically, you first pay the return shipping and make it clear that you are claiming "non-conformity" ie faulty goods. If they cannot prove user error, then they must repair or replace, and then they must reimburse you for the shipping. Even if the non-conformity is minor.

It doesn't matter that they have a "carry in" clause in their terms because EU law protects the consumer from bearing _any_ costs of manufacturing defects.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Can I request those three pictures left visible in higher res (1440p or even better 4K) with HeretEK logo of the door in a corner, for wallpaper pupose?


Seconded, I'd like them as well







.


----------



## f1schu

Thanks for the posts/info regarding returns to you guys above.

I guess EK now owe me £16 then no matter what the terms and conditions say on the EK store. If a brand new item arrives damaged then they are fully liable for all return shipping charges.

Anyways nevermind, had some good news today at least and they have already received, repaired and dispatched the block so it should be back with me in 2-3 days, which is great, they have somewhat redeemed themselves with the speedy turn around









Now my next problem is one of my Sapphire r9 290's is slightly different to the other, in that it has pink capacitors at the end of the board when the other has blue ones.
Now that in itself isn't any major issue but for some reason my aquacomputer block fits fine on the one with the blue caps (so got another for the card with the pink caps) and it doesn't fit correctly as the chokes behind the vrms are stopping the block making contact. Its as if the chokes on one card are higher or larger than the other. It's either that or the other block hasn't been machined properly.
Looks like I'm gonna have to take the one that fits back apart and compare them to see whats going on.

Anyway will get some pics up of my EK block once its been fitted to my board


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1schu*
> 
> Thanks for the posts/info regarding returns to you guys above.
> 
> Anyways nevermind, had some good news today at least and they have already received, repaired and dispatched the block so it should be back with me in 2-3 days, which is great, they have somewhat redeemed themselves with the speedy turn around


THIS is why EK right now is my goto for water cooling, even though we didn't really know it, they were watching this issue the whole time and rocked it out!

EDIT: Can't wait to see the pics...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> THIS is why EK right now is my goto for water cooling, even though we didn't really know it, they were watching this issue the whole time and rocked it out!
> 
> EDIT: Can't wait to see the pics...


I love EK products but sorry they really did not do anything most of the others would have done!!


----------



## andl

I'm sitting on my iPhone to see when I get my parts. So far - Thank you for your order from Ekwaterblocks. Once your package ships we will send an email with a link to track your order.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Lol, how'd I miss this Club? I've currently got two FC Titan blocks in nickel / plexi, an FB kit RE4 in nickel / plexi on my RIVE, and a Supreme HF in nickel / plexi on my 4930K. I've also had a couple of FC 7970 blocks in the same finish as well...


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1schu*
> 
> Anyways nevermind, had some good news today at least and they have already received, repaired and dispatched the block so it should be back with me in 2-3 days, which is great, they have somewhat redeemed themselves with the speedy turn around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now my next problem is one of my Sapphire r9 290's is slightly different to the other, in that it has pink capacitors at the end of the board when the other has blue ones.
> Now that in itself isn't any major issue but for some reason my aquacomputer block fits fine on the one with the blue caps (so got another for the card with the pink caps) and it doesn't fit correctly as the chokes behind the vrms are stopping the block making contact. Its as if the chokes on one card are higher or larger than the other. It's either that or the other block hasn't been machined properly.
> Looks like I'm gonna have to take the one that fits back apart and compare them to see whats going on.
> 
> Anyway will get some pics up of my EK block once its been fitted to my board


Glad to hear

As for your AC block issue, I HAD THE SAME EXACT PROBLEM with two Sapphire TriX 290X (from same order, hynix on both, etc). The VRM chokes on both my cards are too tall for the AC block's cutout.

I had to mill the blocks in the cutout area. Be careful and go slow - water flows to the VRMD above that thin piece of copper and a mistake can mean leaks (don't ask). Search the official 290 forum for my posts in -January 2015 for more info

Where I'm at with EK and my build: still waiting for the Case Labs S8+ped. The dual D5 pumps and assembly from EK arrived last week along with 13 3K Vardars. Still an XRES tube, a couple more Furious Vardars and a bunch of fittings sitting in the cart, waiting for a final piece to vote in stock


----------



## andl

That time when you wait for stupid fitting to arrive and haven't decided to take that trade off to use old fugly fittings


P.s. It's all Ekwb except radiators


----------



## Ceadderman

Geez, you've packed that 912 to the gills.









~Ceadder


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Geez, you've packed that 912 to the gills.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


i have 3rd gpu on hand, but i aint ready for this


----------



## Ceadderman

Lol, I did the same to my 932 but am adding two 360s to my single 360 loop. So my industrial shoehorn is gonnna get a workout Richard Simmons would envy.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Lol, I did the same to my 932 but am adding two 360s to my single 360 loop. So my industrial shoehorn is gonnna get a workout Richard Simmons would envy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


how did you fit 3 x360 in 932? it imposibble


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Lol, I did the same to my 932 but am adding two 360s to my single 360 loop. So my industrial shoehorn is gonnna get a workout Richard Simmons would envy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how did you fit 3 x360 in 932? it imposibble
Click to expand...

Removes 5.25 bay, HDD rack and adding two Inerior/Exterior supports , one on each aide vertically aligned to each other. Gonna rivet them in place for secure stabilty to allow my radiators to mount on the inside with a little elbow grease since the spacing is less than that 5.25" opening.









But it's doable. The difficult part is grafting the doors to allow for the fans cleanly protruding from them. But I've worked that out since my motherboard tray got flipped 180°. So my doors got flipped and the vents can now be hacked cleanly away. EK PE 360s and Vardars will look super sharp in there.









So much more to do though and a new-used Nikon camera to capture it all.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Removes 5.25 bay, HDD rack and adding two Inerior/Exterior supports , one on each aide vertically aligned to each other. Gonna rivet them in place for secure stabilty to allow my radiators to mount on the inside with a little elbow grease since the spacing is less than that 5.25" opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's doable. The difficult part is grafting the doors to allow for the fans cleanly protruding from them. But I've worked that out since my motherboard tray got flipped 180°. So my doors got flipped and the vents can now be hacked cleanly away. EK PE 360s and Vardars will look super sharp in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So much more to do though and a new-used Nikon camera to capture it all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You doing any type of build log for it? I would like to see some pics of your progress.


----------



## f1schu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> THIS is why EK right now is my goto for water cooling, even though we didn't really know it, they were watching this issue the whole time and rocked it out!
> 
> EDIT: Can't wait to see the pics...


Yeah it actually turned up today and it was only repaired and dispatched yesterday so they deffo pulled their fingers out








Will be opening the box up and fitting it tonight so fingers crossed it fits perfectly this time. Will post up the pics here when I've finished.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I love EK products but sorry they really did not do anything most of the others would have done!!


Well it's a first for me having to pay to return a brand new item that arrived damaged and then having to wait for it to be repaired and sent back. Normally it has just been a case of the retailer arranging collection of the faulty product and paying for the return shipping cost and just issuing a brand new replacement.
Still it's back with me now and hopefully it's okay this time and they definitely pulled their fingers out with the super fast turnaround so I'm at least greatful of that.
Just need to get my £16 return shipping cost refunded from EK now seeing as their terms and conditions regarding rma shipping cost do not apply.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Glad to hear
> 
> As for your AC block issue, I HAD THE SAME EXACT PROBLEM with two Sapphire TriX 290X (from same order, hynix on both, etc). The VRM chokes on both my cards are too tall for the AC block's cutout.
> 
> I had to mill the blocks in the cutout area. Be careful and go slow - water flows to the VRMD above that thin piece of copper and a mistake can mean leaks (don't ask). Search the official 290 forum for my posts in -January 2015 for more info
> 
> Where I'm at with EK and my build: still waiting for the Case Labs S8+ped. The dual D5 pumps and assembly from EK arrived last week along with 13 3K Vardars. Still an XRES tube, a couple more Furious Vardars and a bunch of fittings sitting in the cart, waiting for a final piece to vote in stock


Yeah funny enough I'd already seen and read your posts about an hour before I posted about the problem here.
I took my other card and block apart last night and yeah, one has taller chokes so the block wont fit.
I think I'm just gonna put the card back together and sell it on ebay and try to buy a used older card like my other one. Milling the block is a bit too adventurous for me









I just wonder why Sapphire changed the height of the chokes in the first place.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Removes 5.25 bay, HDD rack and adding two Inerior/Exterior supports , one on each aide vertically aligned to each other. Gonna rivet them in place for secure stabilty to allow my radiators to mount on the inside with a little elbow grease since the spacing is less than that 5.25" opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's doable. The difficult part is grafting the doors to allow for the fans cleanly protruding from them. But I've worked that out since my motherboard tray got flipped 180°. So my doors got flipped and the vents can now be hacked cleanly away. EK PE 360s and Vardars will look super sharp in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So much more to do though and a new-used Nikon camera to capture it all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You doing any type of build log for it? I would like to see some pics of your progress.
Click to expand...

I have a log that I have to clean up, but this week the stork arrives to drop off my son. So I will likely not be updating for a couple weeks due to sleep deprivation.









But soon as I can I will.









~Ceadder


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I have a log that I have to clean up, but this week the stork arrives to drop off my son. So I will likely not be updating for a couple weeks due to sleep deprivation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But soon as I can I will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nah dude sleep with these: http://www.hearos.com/products/extreme-protection I use em, work great


----------



## Ceadderman

My wife would







if I did that. Lol









~Ceadder


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My wife would
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if I did that. Lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You need a smart crib. When it detects crying it rocks the crib gently from side to side and plays soothing music. If crying doesn't stop for 15 minutes the chloroform spray kicks in and knocks that sucker out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Babies cry for a reason 1st check diaper. Clean? Feed. Not hungry? Well then he just wants to be held or is collicy. Easier than diagnosing a computer. Is all good. A few weeks and things should get back to *some* semblance of normal.









Y'all make it sound like I should iggy my son.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## doogk

I have a http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-dual-top-g1-4-csq-black-acetal.html that I want to reuse in a build, I was wondering if I can use it like so in the picture? What Im worried about is that the res really wont be doing anything so my water will heat up from being such a low supply.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doogk*
> 
> I have a http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-dual-top-g1-4-csq-black-acetal.html that I want to reuse in a build, I was wondering if I can use it like so in the picture? What Im worried about is that the res really wont be doing anything so my water will heat up from being such a low supply.


I use these and does not heat water up! Also if you need the adapter to add the resevoir let me know i have one


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I use these and does not heat water up! Also if you need the adapter to add the resevoir let me know i have one


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doogk*
> 
> I have a http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-dual-top-g1-4-csq-black-acetal.html that I want to reuse in a build, I was wondering if I can use it like so in the picture? What Im worried about is that the res really wont be doing anything so my water will heat up from being such a low supply.


The XRES adapter has its own inlet above the one you're planning on using. The directions depict blanking off the fitting you showed and use the XRES adapter's.

Scroll all the way down on the dual d5 manual:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109840795.pdf


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doogk*
> 
> I have a http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-dual-top-g1-4-csq-black-acetal.html that I want to reuse in a build, I was wondering if I can use it like so in the picture? What Im worried about is that the res really wont be doing anything so my water will heat up from being such a low supply.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> The XRES adapter has its own inlet above the one you're planning on using. The directions depict blanking off the fitting you showed and use the XRES adapter's.
> 
> Scroll all the way down on the dual d5 manual:
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109840795.pdf


Like I said I have the xres adapter if anyone needs one...


----------



## doogk

Just got my case so I might be rethinking a few things and will be coming into the top again


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Supremacy evo o ring 57mm x 2mm, is 57mm od or id? Damn thing is apparently not air tight


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Supremacy evo o ring 57mm x 2mm, is 57mm od or id? Damn thing is apparently not air tight


You have this option : http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-supremacy-oring-set.html

But to answer you, it's the ID


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Babies cry for a reason 1st check diaper. Clean? Feed. Not hungry? Well then he just wants to be held or is collicy. Easier than diagnosing a computer. Is all good. A few weeks and things should get back to *some* semblance of normal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Y'all make it sound like I should iggy my son.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


Since I have 6 more months before that happens second time I'll show you my empty 912, since I still waiting for that ek fittings and spacers. And well pwm splitter







. All hoses will be mounted inside.


----------



## Ceadderman

Are those fan studs atop your Phobya Radiator?









~Ceadder


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Are those fan studs atop your Phobya Radiator?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I use it to mount radiator in front of the case, but now it to allow gravity more securely fit radiator to the top of the case


----------



## Ceadderman

Wow keen use of standoffs to mount a Radiator.









~Ceadder


----------



## f1schu

Well just a quick update. The block was much better packaged this time and fair play to EK it was like new. This time no cracks and all screw holes lined up perfectly making the install a breeze.

Here's a quick shot of my R5E wearing its new Monoblock.


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wow keen use of standoffs to mount a Radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


want something to be done faster ask a lazy man


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You have this option : http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-supremacy-oring-set.html
> 
> But to answer you, it's the ID


Thanks, picked up three. Is the block supposed to be air tight @ 10 PSI with a proper working o-ring?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Thanks, picked up three. Is the block supposed to be air tight @ 10 PSI with a proper working o-ring?


Good question about the pressure.

Maybe @EK_tiborrr can answer this


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Thanks, I inspected the o-ring and it looked fine but when it sits in the block it looks like there's not much of the rubber sticking out. Almost like it's a bit flattened but it looks fine so I'm not really sure.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You have this option : http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-supremacy-oring-set.html
> 
> But to answer you, it's the ID
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, picked up three. Is the block supposed to be air tight @ 10 PSI with a proper working o-ring?
Click to expand...

Yes,it is.

I have my EVO up to 25psi on air,it made some unsettling noises but it took it like a champ.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Hey Akira, do you know what the pricing on the non-reference 980ti blocks will look like? Same price as the Titan X or cheaper?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,it is.
> 
> I have my EVO up to 25psi on air,it made some unsettling noises but it took it like a champ.


OK, must need an o-ring replacement then. Thanks!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,it is.
> 
> I have my EVO up to 25psi on air,it made some unsettling noises but it took it like a champ.


Thanks B.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Hey Akira, do you know what the pricing on the non-reference 980ti blocks will look like? Same price as the Titan X or cheaper?


It won't be cheaper. Some might be around the same price but some will definitely be higher.


----------



## akira749

Our new WebShop is online!

http://shop.ekwb.com/

Enjoy!


----------



## anotheraznguy

Site looks good. Too bad our existing accounts are wiped out and i cant check my previous orders any longer.


----------



## Barefooter

Just checked out the new web shop, looks nice! Much better than the old one.


----------



## Anateus

Now thats an overhaul. Old one was kind of outdated, good to see you guys know how to use CSS and JS


----------



## tSgt

So much better than before

Time to do the home page too tho !


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Looks good. USA sales have tax (VAT) applied? That can't be right. One of the things I REALLY would have liked to see is the feature where if you scroll down enough it starts loading the next items instead of having to click on a next button.


----------



## Kimir

Nice looking indeed, damnit I lost my saved cart tho. XD


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> Site looks good. Too bad our existing accounts are wiped out and i cant check my previous orders any longer.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Just checked out the new web shop, looks nice! Much better than the old one.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Now thats an overhaul. Old one was kind of outdated, good to see you guys know how to use CSS and JS


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> So much better than before
> 
> Time to do the home page too tho !


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Nice looking indeed, damnit I lost my saved cart tho. XD


Thanks everyone! The guys did an awesome job! I'm very happy too with what they did!!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Looks good. USA sales have tax (VAT) applied? That can't be right. One of the things I REALLY would have liked to see is the feature where if you scroll down enough it starts loading the next items instead of having to click on a next button.


Where do you see the VAT? Your location should be USA and your currency USD and should not see any VAT.


----------



## WerePug

I think it's better to be able to add items that are not in stock, so you won't have to scrounge around the site and periodically check availability. When you are ordering an entire water loop, most likely there are going to be items on the list that will be out of stock. Currently, you have to check every day for those items and only then you can add them, which is kind of uncomfortable. Unless there is the wish-list somwhere


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Thanks everyone! The guys did an awesome job! I'm very happy too with what they did!!!!
> Where do you see the VAT? Your location should be USA and your currency USD and should not see any VAT.


If I go to order, update the shipping amount, it shows the order cost, shipping cost, and tax cost is still included.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> If I go to order, update the shipping amount, it shows the order cost, shipping cost, and tax cost is still included.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It might have something to do with your country/state.

Check mine....no tax


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Set yours to USA/Massachusetts. Do you get the same result (tax added)?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Set yours to USA/Massachusetts. Do you get the same result (tax added)?


I put the same info as you did and my amount didn't changed and no tax appears. It might have something to do with the "Delivery" + country on the top right of the page.


----------



## catbuster

New shop looks good


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Now thats an overhaul. Old one was kind of outdated, good to see you guys know how to use CSS and JS


It's Magento CMS, at least that's what I saw while shopping during the transition


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> So much better than before
> 
> Time to do the home page too tho !


Up next, along with Cooling Configurator!


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Good question about the pressure.
> 
> Maybe @EK_tiborrr can answer this


10PSI is no issue although there's no real need for such high pressure.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> 10PSI is no issue although there's no real need for such high pressure.


It can't hold it though. After a few min it drops all the way to zero. I have new o-rings on the way, should rectify the issue.


----------



## Reaper28

Just another random question and out of curiosity, how come you guys don't sell things like Hydro Copper blocks on the EK site? I know technically it's still an EVGA product but EVGA credits you for the design wouldn't it still make sense to sell the block that you guys designed?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Just another random question and out of curiosity, how come you guys don't sell things like Hydro Copper blocks on the EK site? I know technically it's still an EVGA product but EVGA credits you for the design wouldn't it still make sense to sell the block that you guys designed?


Actually they make it but it is part of the agreement I would think that only EVGA can sell it!!!


----------



## Smokey the Bear

With the new site, what will happen to my order?

My account history says I've placed no orders, but I was waiting for an order to be shipped pending availability of a backplate.

Scratch that, shipped out the very next morning!


----------



## Ironsmack

Just wondering, can i use this to upgrade my EK Supremacy HF block to the EVO?

http://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-evo-upgrade-kit-plexi

Or just the EK Supremacy not the HF series?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Just wondering, can i use this to upgrade my EK Supremacy HF block to the EVO?
> 
> http://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-evo-upgrade-kit-plexi
> 
> Or just the EK Supremacy not the HF series?


If it worked on the HF as well they would surely mark it as so. The HF and Supremacy have many differences despite looking quite similar. One of the main ones, depending on exact model was that supreme HF has screws on top vs Supremacy on the bottom.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Just wondering, can i use this to upgrade my EK Supremacy HF block to the EVO?
> 
> http://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-evo-upgrade-kit-plexi
> 
> Or just the EK Supremacy not the HF series?


Only the latter, yes.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If it worked on the HF as well they would surely mark it as so. The HF and Supremacy have many differences despite looking quite similar. One of the main ones, depending on exact model was that supreme HF has screws on top vs Supremacy on the bottom.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Only the latter, yes.


Okay, thanks guys!


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Babies cry for a reason 1st check diaper. Clean? Feed. Not hungry? Well then he just wants to be held or is collicy. Easier than diagnosing a computer. Is all good. A few weeks and things should get back to *some* semblance of normal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Y'all make it sound like I should iggy my son.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


Gotta water cool that crib lol. 15 usd projection screen / lullabye toy was the best thing I ever bought. When he wakes up if it's not a dirty diaper or hungry he will just sit back watch the stars and moons on the ceiling from the projector and eventually go back to sleep.


----------



## scorpscarx

Anyone know if the existing supremacy evo mount is going to fit 1151?


----------



## MadHatter5045

@akira749, I just got my 10mm/16mm (3/8"x5/8") compression fittings and the 8mm allen key is just a tad too big. Am I supposed to actually be using a 7mm allen key?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Babies cry for a reason 1st check diaper. Clean? Feed. Not hungry? Well then he just wants to be held or is collicy. Easier than diagnosing a computer. Is all good. A few weeks and things should get back to *some* semblance of normal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Y'all make it sound like I should iggy my son.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gotta water cool that crib lol. 15 usd projection screen / lullabye toy was the best thing I ever bought. When he wakes up if it's not a dirty diaper or hungry he will just sit back watch the stars and moons on the ceiling from the projector and eventually go back to sleep.
Click to expand...

You got a link for it? Maybe EK will make blocks for it too.









~Ceadder


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You got a link for it? Maybe EK will make blocks for it too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Make sure to overclock the refresh rate!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> @akira749, I just got my 10mm/16mm (3/8"x5/8") compression fittings and the 8mm allen key is just a tad too big. Am I supposed to actually be using a 7mm allen key?


No the 8mm one is the one to use.









Is it the EK 8mm or one from an allen set that you bought in an hardware store? If it's the EK one, maybe you could try with an 8mm from an hardware store.


----------



## FrancisJF

Purchased 2 EK's new XE radiators to replace the dirty Alphacool rads.


----------



## hiarc

I just picked up the dual DDC setup and I have a quick question. If I were to shorten and mod the cables would warranty be affected? The cables are much too long and are an eye sore.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No the 8mm one is the one to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it the EK 8mm or one from an allen set that you bought in an hardware store? If it's the EK one, maybe you could try with an 8mm from an hardware store.


It's the EK one, I'll give a different one a try.


----------



## deehoC

Could any of you point me to a build log or just some random photos of a build making use of the EK Black Nickel Advanced Compression Fittings please? Trying to decide whether I wanna go with Nickel, Black Nickel or Blue colored fittings..I wish there was some kind of cooling configuration thing where you could choose the color of your fittings/tubing/coolant and it displays what they'd look like in a case attached to a loop.


----------



## defyoddz

can anyone point me to what item i need to mount the ek-xres 140 d5 vario to the inside of a radiator. the ek-uni fan mount apparently doesnt work for that model, i am seeing some options by other companys on performance pcs website just not sure what to use.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defyoddz*
> 
> can anyone point me to what item i need to mount the ek-xres 140 d5 vario to the inside of a radiator. the ek-uni fan mount apparently doesnt work for that model, i am seeing some options by other companys on performance pcs website just not sure what to use.











http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-uni-pump-holder-120mm-fan.html

you cant use that?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> I just picked up the dual DDC setup and I have a quick question. If I were to shorten and mod the cables would warranty be affected? The cables are much too long and are an eye sore.


Unfortunately yes. Otherwise we have problems with the manufacturer when we try to send them such pump back


----------



## ClaggyPants

@EK_tiborrr Similiar to BugBash I have an issue with my Titan-x Nickel Plexi block. Just received in the mail today and the contact plate on the cooling side is ridgerd. Its very slight but when I run my finger nail across it I can noticeably feel the ridges and they are significant. My previous 580 block and copper 780 block dont have this issue.

Titan Block

580 Block


Is the Titan block defective because it doesn't feel flat - I don't want to install it if it should be returned.


----------



## TONSCHUH

I just had to share this:


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ClaggyPants*
> 
> @EK_tiborrr Similiar to BugBash I have an issue with my Titan-x Nickel Plexi block. Just received in the mail today and the contact plate on the cooling side is ridgerd. Its very slight but when I run my finger nail across it I can noticeably feel the ridges and they are significant. My previous 580 block and copper 780 block dont have this issue.
> 
> Titan Block
> 
> 580 Block
> 
> 
> Is the Titan block defective because it doesn't feel flat - I don't want to install it if it should be returned.


This is the diamond head milling mark and it's normal. There is no measurable performance difference, the most important thing is the surface is flat and even, not warped.

It is a machined part so yes, each block will be slightly different.


----------



## ClaggyPants

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> I just had to share this:


Why's that? Do tell.


----------



## ClaggyPants

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> This is the diamond head milling mark and it's normal. There is no measurable performance difference, the most important thing is the surface is flat and even, not warped.
> 
> It is a machined part so yes, each block will be slightly different.


Thanks for clearing that up. I've never felt a block with so many ridges - I've not bought a GPU block in the last 2 years and the difference with this new one is very noticeable. The whole card side of the block looks very untidy. My other blocks have all had the marks but they have been very smooth, this one isn't, it's rough and looks a mess but thats very hard to show in the photo's.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> I just had to share this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This was one of my favorite videos when I was researching how to fill a loop. That CPU must have gotten hot, and that pump sounds terrible after running dry for so long.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You have this option : http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-supremacy-oring-set.html
> 
> But to answer you, it's the ID


What is the smaller o-ring for? There is large one that's an octagon and a smaller one that's a circle. Thanks


----------



## mrgnex

I now have received my Supremacy MX AMD version and I want to add red leds in it. Does anyone know how to connect them?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> I now have received my Supremacy MX AMD version and I want to add red leds in it. Does anyone know how to connect them?


Connect Them? Are there not small holes to insert the Led In on the side of the Block?

TCO


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Connect Them? Are there not small holes to insert the Led In on the side of the Block?
> 
> TCO


Thats what I eman! Looks awesome. I understand. But what leds should I use and how do I provide them with power? I could buy two seperate 3 mm leds but then I need to mod my sata power cable and I think I need a resistor and stuff.. Or is there some led that just plugs into everything.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Thats what I eman! Looks awesome. I understand. But what leds should I use and how do I provide them with power? I could buy two seperate 3 mm leds but then I need to mod my sata power cable and I think I need a resistor and stuff.. Or is there some led that just plugs into everything.


I've used XSPC 3mm Led (in Picture) that are powered by Molex from PSU. But these went out after..... 6 months?

The Cautious One.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> I now have received my Supremacy MX AMD version and I want to add red leds in it. Does anyone know how to connect them?


using 3mm xspc leds in my Supremacy mx too. They are molex connected directly to the psu.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> What is the smaller o-ring for? There is large one that's an octagon and a smaller one that's a circle. Thanks


On the EVO you don't need it. It's meant for those who have the non-EVO Supremacy


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> I just picked up the dual DDC setup and I have a quick question. If I were to shorten and mod the cables would warranty be affected? The cables are much too long and are an eye sore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately yes. Otherwise we have problems with the manufacturer when we try to send them such pump back
Click to expand...

Ahhh but what if I were to remove them and install shorter cables in their place and swap them over if the pump fails for mechanical wear not electrical? Probably same answer but it's worth exploring.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> I just had to share this:


This is why *EVERYONE* should do research before putting a loop together.









Absolute FAIL!









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ahhh but what if I were to remove them and install shorter cables in their place and swap them over if the pump fails for mechanical wear not electrical? Probably same answer but it's worth exploring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Just run them for a while and shorten them.! Walk on the wild side!!!!


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ClaggyPants*
> 
> Thanks for clearing that up. I've never felt a block with so many ridges - I've not bought a GPU block in the last 2 years and the difference with this new one is very noticeable. The whole card side of the block looks very untidy. My other blocks have all had the marks but they have been very smooth, this one isn't, it's rough and looks a mess but thats very hard to show in the photo's.


Hi,

you see, it totally depends on the state of the milling bit. A brand new bit will leave rough marks, slightly worn out will have more smooth finish and then a worn out mill bit will again have more rough and inconsistent pattern. But everything is well within tolerances. That's the difference between a cast and machined product. I like it since it makes the product more 'personaliized'









Also, compared to old 500 series water block you have there the new block has a totally different nickel alloy coat so this also plays a part in your objective/subjective assesment.


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ahhh but what if I were to remove them and install shorter cables in their place and swap them over if the pump fails for mechanical wear not electrical? Probably same answer but it's worth exploring.


I was thinking about doing the same, haha.







We will see if I decide to be a little wild and risk the warranty as they have been perfectly fine for 2 days now.

Thank you for the response tiborrr.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Just run them for a while and shorten them.! Walk on the wild side!!!!


Agree. Most warranty/RMA situations are discovered in the first few hours of use.

So test stuff first, and if it seems fine you can remove all the stickers, paint and shorten/replace the wires.



Especially PSUs...



... look so much better without all the stickers


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> using 3mm xspc leds in my Supremacy mx too. They are molex connected directly to the psu.


Wirerat, got a question for you, was going to pm but thought it might benefit others. The loop in your sig rig Cable box is very similiar to mine with the components and setup and such. I noticed at first you didn't use any angled fittings but then at some point you upgraded your pump/res and started adding some angled fittings. So my question is, what made you use the angled fittings and how did you determine which ones should be angled and such?

I've been thinking about adding some angled fittings to mine, but it's hard to visualize without just buying the fittings and trying it. I like the the bends the ZMT can make but always wonder if it could look better with straighter runs. I know tubing runs are a lot of personal preference, but just wanted to pick your brain with such a similar rig.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Wirerat, got a question for you, was going to pm but thought it might benefit others. The loop in your sig rig Cable box is very similiar to mine with the components and setup and such. I noticed at first you didn't use any angled fittings but then at some point you upgraded your pump/res and started adding some angled fittings. So my question is, what made you use the angled fittings and how did you determine which ones should be angled and such?
> 
> I've been thinking about adding some angled fittings to mine, but it's hard to visualize without just buying the fittings and trying it. I like the the bends the ZMT can make but always wonder if it could look better with straighter runs. I know tubing runs are a lot of personal preference, but just wanted to pick your brain with such a similar rig.


If I could add something. Straight Run help provide a better Flow (Granted you don't have 100 or more 90Degree fittings) Not saying that Curved runs are much of a difference.

An Example If I can Find some Pics of my First Runs in my 750D. I didn't just do it for Looks.




Now I added another Rad but I wanted to make the Runs as short As I could.



TCO

I've Done better work but this was my baby, A ton of Trial and Error in this 750D.


----------



## ClaggyPants

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Also, compared to old 500 series water block you have there the new block has a totally different nickel alloy coat so this also plays a part in your objective/subjective assesment.


Now that ,I did not know. And I think I like it. I just have to wait for the damn card to arrive now - but at least I'm prepared


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Why did all the prices on EK's own website go up by a crazy amount?


----------



## nyxagamemnon

$193 for a kpe block? Increase over 50% from release price? Even cpu blocks are now insanely priced. Full nickles for $150 plexi's for $100.


----------



## Ramzinho

Come on Guys.. Let's know why the sudden raise in prices?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Come on Guys.. Let's know why the sudden raise in prices?


Are yall serious?

I just purchased a Nickle CSQ EK Supremacy on Performance for 78.99 USD

TCO


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Apparently you need to login to see the lower prices (with VAT removed). Looks so pricey with VAT: http://shop.ekwb.com/water-blocks/cpu-blocks/supremacy-evo


----------



## Kimir

I was wondering what y'all talking about, so I logged in to see. Yup no change over here, VAT apply for me EU guy, prices are the same.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Are yall serious?
> 
> I just purchased a Nickle CSQ EK Supremacy on Performance for 78.99 USD
> 
> TCO


we are talking about the ek webshop man
looks like logging in makes it normal price again


----------



## Anateus

Wish I could move to USA and live without VAT


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Wish I could move to USA and live without VAT


How do you people buy anything with VAT? Prices are so ridiculous for hardware and anything over there, I don't think your average salaries are that much higher to offset it, are they?


----------



## Mark Huntsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> How do you people buy anything with VAT? Prices are so ridiculous for hardware and anything over there, I don't think your average salaries are that much higher to offset it, are they?


In fact, Hardware prices at much higher than in the US, but salaries are much lower (I don't know exactly about the rest of EU, but in Slovakia average monthly salary is about 800€ ~ $900). I get really pissed off when I see for example gtx960 msrp 200-220 usd, but in here it is more like 250 eur, which is close to $300. As you can see, you cant really compare those prices.


----------



## Rainmaker91

It all depends on which country you look at, but there are simply to many factors to say something is expensive somewhere and inexpensive somewhere else. That said Something like the Income Index and a list of income equality should indicate the price differences somewhat.

All I know is that here it's not really that bad even though I pay 25% taxes on all products purchased (more on some products and less on others), so really it depends a lot.


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark Huntsman*
> 
> In fact, Hardware prices at much higher than in the US, but salaries are much lower (I don't know exactly about the rest of EU, but in Slovakia average monthly salary is about 800€ ~ $900). I get really pissed off when I see for example gtx960 msrp 200-220 usd, but in here it is more like 250 eur, which is close to $300. As you can see, you cant really compare those prices.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> It all depends on which country you look at, but there are simply to many factors to say something is expensive somewhere and inexpensive somewhere else. That said Something like the Income Index and a list of income equality should indicate the price differences somewhat.
> 
> All I know is that here it's not really that bad even though I pay 25% taxes on all products purchased (more on some products and less on others), so really it depends a lot.


here we have average salary about $100 and after all taxes we pay 20% VAT so keep calm and have a good day $)


----------



## BugBash

Pump advice please!
As my build will be external, loop up to 3meters with a couple 90* adaptors in it, Im guessing I will need something fairly powerful.
I have ordered a 7A variable voltage regulator to provide an adjustable 12V supply for pump and fans.

Would the EK-D5 Vario X-TOP or the EK-DCP 4.0 PWM be best suited?
I dont have a PWM enabled Mobo or Fan controller, will that be an issue?
Thank you for your thoughts!


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BugBash*
> 
> Pump advice please!
> As my build will be external, loop up to 3meters with a couple 90* adaptors in it, Im guessing I will need something fairly powerful.
> I have ordered a 7A variable voltage regulator to provide an adjustable 12V supply for pump and fans.
> 
> Would the EK-D5 Vario X-TOP or the EK-DCP 4.0 PWM be best suited?
> I dont have a PWM enabled Mobo or Fan controller, will that be an issue?
> Thank you for your thoughts!


Go with what you have money for. I got my self d5 and I'm happy with it. My system have 3 ek blocks and dual 200mm rad plus d5 with x-res100


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ahhh but what if I were to remove them and install shorter cables in their place and swap them over if the pump fails for mechanical wear not electrical? Probably same answer but it's worth exploring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Just run them for a while and shorten them.! Walk o
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BugBash*
> 
> Pump advice please!
> As my build will be external, loop up to 3meters with a couple 90* adaptors in it, Im guessing I will need something fairly powerful.
> I have ordered a 7A variable voltage regulator to provide an adjustable 12V supply for pump and fans.
> 
> Would the EK-D5 Vario X-TOP or the EK-DCP 4.0 PWM be best suited?
> I dont have a PWM enabled Mobo or Fan controller, will that be an issue?
> Thank you for your thoughts!


get the D5 as it is more powerful than the DCP pump and quieter..


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ahhh but what if I were to remove them and install shorter cables in their place and swap them over if the pump fails for mechanical wear not electrical? Probably same answer but it's worth exploring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Just run them for a while and short


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BugBash*
> 
> Pump advice please!
> As my build will be external, loop up to 3meters with a couple 90* adaptors in it, Im guessing I will need something fairly powerful.
> I have ordered a 7A variable voltage regulator to provide an adjustable 12V supply for pump and fans.
> 
> Would the EK-D5 Vario X-TOP or the EK-DCP 4.0 PWM be best suited?
> I dont have a PWM enabled Mobo or Fan controller, will that be an issue?
> Thank you for your thoughts!


I would take the D5 everytime


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> If I could add something. Straight Run help provide a better Flow (Granted you don't have 100 or more 90Degree fittings) Not saying that Curved runs are much of a difference.
> 
> An Example If I can Find some Pics of my First Runs in my 750D. I didn't just do it for Looks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I added another Rad but I wanted to make the Runs as short As I could.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> I've Done better work but this was my baby, A ton of Trial and Error in this 750D.


Thanks for the input. Now that I have the basics down I'm just trying to start honing the specifics of a loop and see why others decide to do certain things. I know its a lot of trial and error though, may just have to break down and buy some angles to try them, every loop is different in its own way.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BugBash*
> 
> Pump advice please!
> As my build will be external, loop up to 3meters with a couple 90* adaptors in it, Im guessing I will need something fairly powerful.
> I have ordered a 7A variable voltage regulator to provide an adjustable 12V supply for pump and fans.
> 
> Would the EK-D5 Vario X-TOP or the EK-DCP 4.0 PWM be best suited?
> I dont have a PWM enabled Mobo or Fan controller, will that be an issue?
> Thank you for your thoughts!


I don't think you're supposed to use less than 12 volts for pumps. That's why they make vario and pwm versions. Not sure if that's a manufacturers thing or what, I just remember reading that somewhere. I could be wrong.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BugBash*
> 
> Pump advice please!
> As my build will be external, loop up to 3meters with a couple 90* adaptors in it, Im guessing I will need something fairly powerful.
> I have ordered a 7A variable voltage regulator to provide an adjustable 12V supply for pump and fans.
> 
> Would the EK-D5 Vario X-TOP or the EK-DCP 4.0 PWM be best suited?
> I dont have a PWM enabled Mobo or Fan controller, will that be an issue?
> Thank you for your thoughts!


I believe D5 pumps start at 8V just keep that in mind. Your best bet is get a D5 with the controller on the back or Let it run wide open there not really that loud.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> we are talking about the ek webshop man
> looks like logging in makes it normal price again


I thought you meant in General. That would be an insane jump (Inflation)

TCO


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Wirerat, got a question for you, was going to pm but thought it might benefit others. The loop in your sig rig Cable box is very similiar to mine with the components and setup and such. I noticed at first you didn't use any angled fittings but then at some point you upgraded your pump/res and started adding some angled fittings. So my question is, what made you use the angled fittings and how did you determine which ones should be angled and such?
> 
> I've been thinking about adding some angled fittings to mine, but it's hard to visualize without just buying the fittings and trying it. I like the the bends the ZMT can make but always wonder if it could look better with straighter runs. I know tubing runs are a lot of personal preference, but just wanted to pick your brain with such a similar rig.


The cable box sig rig is my first wc build. So it started out in a kinda rough form. It was a L360kit (old version) with a 140rad and bitspower gpu block added.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







So the most recent update was really just for looks but I added a bitspower ddc heatsink, 3 90s, 5 45s and a ek 140 xres top.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







The zmt tubing looks good for short tight turns. Like from my cpu block to rad. But I like the fittings to straighten out and shorten the run on the more slightly bent longer runs.

Plus I liked the look of the nickel with black so more nickel being in added to the look.

All of that is totally supjective though.


----------



## Archea47

EK & club: What's the shape of the copper transfer plate/base of the (universal) Supremacy and Supremacy EVO? Is it flat, concave, convex? Does the Jat plate, mounting, etc. have an effect on the shape?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> The cable box sig rig is my first wc build. So it started out in a kinda rough form. It was a L360kit (old version) with a 140rad and bitspower gpu block added.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the most recent update was really just for looks but I added a bitspower ddc heatsink, 3 90s, 5 45s and a ek 140 xres top.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The zmt tubing looks good for short tight turns. Like from my cpu block to rad. But I like the fittings to straighten out and shorten the run on the more slightly bent longer runs.
> 
> Plus I liked the look of the nickel with black so more nickel being in added to the look.
> 
> All of that is totally supjective though.


Perfect, the exact information I was looking for, thanks for your valuable input.


----------



## akira749

New revised version of the MSI GTX 970 block for the PCB's version 1.3

EK releases new block for latest revision MSI® GeForce GTX 970


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> EK & club: What's the shape of the copper transfer plate/base of the (universal) Supremacy and Supremacy EVO? Is it flat, concave, convex? Does the Jat plate, mounting, etc. have an effect on the shape?


On an uninstalled CPU block, the cold plate will tend to be ever so slightly "curved" (or convex in your terms). But once installed, it will flatten with the CPU IHS with the help of the mounting mechanism.


----------



## fast_fate

I have feeling that there's going to be some radiator leakage today.

Info and 1st look photos that is


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I have feeling that there's going to be some radiator leakage today.
> 
> Info and 1st look photos that is


looks good...


----------



## Anateus

Any news on 140mm fans/rads?


----------



## Fruergaard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I have feeling that there's going to be some radiator leakage today.
> 
> Info and 1st look photos that is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good.
So the SE version is only 120mm wide it seems









Is there an estimed time for release?


----------



## fast_fate

1st look pics and info up now


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Nice, can't wait to see how well it performs in the low-RPM range. Still waiting like mad for the 140mm variant rads and Vardars though.

@fast_fate and @geggeg Will either of you be doing a 480 vs 420 with 120mm and 140mm Vardars once available?


----------



## fast_fate

If enough requests are made....
EK might decide to send out the required gear for the 360 vs. 420 / 420 vs. 480 performance comparison testing to be done.
Both of us would need to re-test as to the 120mm versions to get Vardar performance, as we currently run different fans for our comparisons.
From my side, I would do it, but with a reduced amount of data points that are tested at - like dropping the 0.5 and 1.5 gpm P/P data points...
just testing at 1.0 gpm in both Push/Pull and Push Only.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Nice, can't wait to see how well it performs in the low-RPM range. Still waiting like mad for the 140mm variant rads and Vardars though.
> 
> @fast_fate and @geggeg Will either of you be doing a 480 vs 420 with 120mm and 140mm Vardars once available?


Yeah what FF said. I don't even have enough vardar fans (mostly one of each only), let alone the rads so it would be extremely contingent on my time and EK's interest. More and more rads coming in all the time, let alone all other stuff.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> If enough requests are made....
> EK might decide to send out the required gear for the 360 vs. 420 / 420 vs. 480 performance comparison testing to be done.
> Both of us would need to re-test as to the 120mm versions to get Vardar performance, as we currently run different fans for our comparisons.
> From my side, I would do it, but with a reduced amount of data points that are tested at - like dropping the 0.5 and 1.5 gpm P/P data points...
> just testing at 1.0 gpm in both Push/Pull and Push Only.


Given all the data I've seen on xtremerigs and thermalbench on the Vardar fans, it looks like a well performing 420 radiator (which I assume EK will release soon enough) could provide the same cooling performance as their 480 at much lower noise levels. I'm just really interested to see a 420 vs 480 comparison for airflow:watts dissipated and watts dissipated:noise.


----------



## Jflisk

Looks like the AMD 300 Series is coming out. also looks like they added Fury X and Pro to the line up any ideas when the blocks will Be available. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Reaper28

Somebody from EK told me the all black 120mm Vardar's specifically the F4 have been released but I can't seem to find them on any online retailer?


----------



## Ceadderman

PPCs. They stock them.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG




----------



## derickwm

Phanteks sent me a little something 
































































More Photos


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> PPCs. They stock them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No black F4's though?


----------



## MrMD

Random question,probz cant even get a 100% definaitve answer at this point, but.... Will an Ek thermosphere block be compatible with the New fury cards,not sure how the HBM affects the uniblocks?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Random question,probz cant even get a 100% definaitve answer at this point, but.... Will an Ek thermosphere block be compatible with the New fury cards,not sure how the HBM affects the uniblocks?


That's what I was curious about. If the VRMs aren't that hot, these universal blocks might not be too bad for cards like these as the VRAM gets cooled too.


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> That's what I was curious about. If the VRMs aren't that hot, these universal blocks might not be too bad for cards like these as the VRAM gets cooled too.


Yup,i already have one on my 970,as just have a very low rpm fan blowing at the VRMS's to keep them in check,would be great if i could just do the same with a Fury,and more importantly save myself some £££'s


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Yup,i already have one on my 970,as just have a very low rpm fan blowing at the VRMS's to keep them in check,would be great if i could just do the same with a Fury,and more importantly save myself some £££'s


Plus you don't have to keep buying a new block every upgrade and you can put a card on water from day 1.


----------



## MrPT




----------



## Ceadderman

I believe that Thermospheres should work. But HRM is a new thing and am not sure of how they are setup on the Fury. So I've no idea if the little heat sinks will work with it. Or if they will fit under the monoblock since it's stacked Ram and if AMD kept the same layout for the new tech surrounding the GPU.









Pretty sure you will be fine but pretty sure isn't proof of compatability.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I believe that Thermospheres should work. But HRM is a new thing and am not sure of how they are setup on the Fury. So I've no idea if the little heat sinks will work with it. Or if they will fit under the monoblock since it's stacked Ram and if AMD kept the same layout for the new tech surrounding the GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty sure you will be fine but pretty sure isn't proof of compatability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


that is highly doubtful, the HBM is after all stacked around the die itself instead of on the PCB. This means the entire package is gigantic, but that also includes the HBM itself as well. So although it may work, I would personally look at it as highly doubtful. That said, it would be nice to be able to use my thermosphere on the Fury.


----------



## Jflisk

Now that the R9390X and Furys are a reality any Ideas from EK when we might expect the blocks. Thanks


----------



## Dagamus NM

The r9 390x blocks are already out. They say r9 290x on the, however.

The 390x's only difference from the 290x is a 10% increase in compute units, up to 44 from 40. As this is all contained within the gpu die itself, the physical block is identical.

As far as the thermosphere fitting the fury, it will be dependent on two things. The height of the hbm stack cannot be higher than the gpu otherwise a copper shim will need to be fitted as the 7950/7970 cards do. Also the overall size of the center section housing the gpu and hbm must be smaller than the spacing of the screws for the mounting bracket between the PCB and the thermosphere.


----------



## Ceadderman

Wow that GPU die is ginormous!









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> The r9 390x blocks are already out. They say r9 290x on the, however


Who told you that?


----------



## NIK1

Any idea when the EK-Vardar 140mm fans will be available to buy.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Any idea when the EK-Vardar 140mm fans will be available to buy.


Late July if I remember what @EK_tiborrr said earlier.


----------



## tiborrr12

Late July sounds about right.

Also this:


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Now that the R9390X and Furys are a reality any Ideas from EK when we might expect the blocks. Thanks


On release date!


----------



## Reaper28

@EK_tiborrr , would you happen to know when the 120mm black Vardar's will be released to retailers? somebody else from EK said they were already released but I heard the end of July from somebody else all I can find is the F5 model


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> @EK_tiborrr , would you happen to know when the 120mm black Vardar's will be released to retailers? somebody else from EK said they were already released but I heard the end of July from somebody else all I can find is the F5 model


Who from EK told you that?


----------



## tiborrr12

They're not released, the F4-120ER Black and White are currently in transit, we have a limited amount of these (sub 100 each) for promotional purposes. They should be here in about 3-4 weeks.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> They're not released, the F4-120ER Black and White are currently in transit, we have a limited amount of these (sub 100 each) for promotional purposes. They should be here in about 3-4 weeks.


So then around the end of July is correct then?

@akira749, somebody from EK had posted it on another forum, I asked on FB when they would get released to make sure the date was correct and even they said they were already out


----------



## Ceadderman

Crossflow 360 PE Tib? I will be bugging you from time to time, til time gets short an I have to finalize my mod. Thanks.









~Ceadder


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Crossflow 360 PE Tib? I will be bugging you from time to time, til time gets short an I have to finalize my mod. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Crossflow is usually less-than-ideal construction in terms of performance, compared to U-flow. It's also more bulky. You will not like it


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Crossflow 360 PE Tib? I will be bugging you from time to time, til time gets short an I have to finalize my mod. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Crossflow is usually less-than-ideal construction in terms of performance, compared to U-flow. It's also more bulky. You will not like it
Click to expand...

Trust me when I say *yes, yes I will*.

At least from a simplistic run loop I will. I am going to be getting 2 PEs to run verically in my mod. But will be running a 3rd 360 horizontally in the top. That would be a lot of hardline to concentrate on in the front of my customized case.

*Fillport to Res, Res to pump, Pump to RS 360 In, RS 360 to LS 360, LS 360 to MB in... Horizontal 360 to Res.*

Seven 5/8" tubes and ell bent by hand with no angle fittings. Even one less tube packed in there would simplify the loop in the front. Not to mention my MB tray will have a milled run behind the MB to simplify getting coolant up to the GPU run. As long as it's PE thickness or close enough it would be excellent.

It's either Crossflow or HWL in my predominantly EK build. And I would rather have all EK. My blocks are EK. My pump top is EK. 2 of 3 will for sure be EK.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> So then around the end of July is correct then?
> 
> @akira749, somebody from EK had posted it on another forum, I asked on FB when they would get released to make sure the date was correct and even they said they were already out


End of July too yes.

And sorry for the mis-information you received about their release but it wasn't right.


----------



## Vintage

Excited to see what EK has been working on for the AMD Fury series!

At least the compact pcb design will leave them with no reason not to make it a true fullcover block xD


----------



## Ceadderman

Me too! I will be updating to Fury X for the next go round.









Can't wait to find out what their 2x card will sell for to see if that's the one I go with or their soon to be released Fury X.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> Excited to see what EK has been working on for the AMD Fury series!
> 
> At least the compact pcb design will leave them with no reason not to make it a true fullcover block xD


We always do fullcover blocks....the FC in "EK-FC Titan X" stands for *F*ull*C*over









I'm kidding I know what you really mean


----------



## Toan




----------



## Ceadderman

On the topic of Fury X can the owners of Thermospheres expect a plate upgrade to handle the increase in cooling plate to handle the inclusion of the new HBM? Or are we SoL on that?

I will be likely getting FC blocks but a few people are wondering if Thermospheres will even work. Unlikely w/o a larger surface. Which is why I am asking.









~Ceadder


----------



## Archea47

A bunch of disassembled FF5 fan blades with my fancy new Case Labs S8 pedestal











The fans were assembled similar to my B-Gears. I was impressed that the 13 fans I disassembled had the same amount of components inside. Many Other fans are poorly manufactured and require varying amounts of washers to hide shaft play or maybe imbalance.

Luckily I didn't lose any but some of the spring clips did get mangled while breaking them down. Does anyone know where to order replacements?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> On the topic of Fury X can the owners of Thermospheres expect a plate upgrade to handle the increase in cooling plate to handle the inclusion of the new HBM? Or are we SoL on that?
> 
> I will be likely getting FC blocks but a few people are wondering if Thermospheres will even work. Unlikely w/o a larger surface. Which is why I am asking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I can tell you in advance it's not looking good for Thermosphere on Fury X. Some parts of the VRMs are in the way.

Also, I would personally not leave VRMs bare on such high power card


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I can tell you in advance it's not looking good for Thermosphere on Fury X. Some parts of the VRMs are in the way.
> 
> Also, I would personally not leave VRMs bare on such high power card


it already have waterblocks, so just add fittings to connect to your loop.

btw any ideas of who did this waterblocks for amd fury's?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> it already have waterblocks, so just add fittings to connect to your loop.
> 
> btw any ideas of who did this waterblocks for amd fury's?


Probably Asetek as they did the same for the 295x2 IIRC:

"HardwareBattle and VideoCardz leaked powerpoint presentations, while PC Perspective leaked (wonder did this leak had anything to do with a visit of one of lead green men last week&#8230 or control-leaked images of Radeon Fury X, showing its All-in-One liquid cooling solution (*developed by Asetek*) and a very compact board size."

Source: http://www.vrworld.com/2015/06/15/amd-next-gen-cards-pictured-meet-radeon-r9-390-fury-x/

"The reference-design Fury X will come with an AIO cooling solution, *likely designed by Asetek*, featuring a Cooler Master made fan, ventilating its 120 x 120 mm radiator."

Source: http://www.techpowerup.com/213416/amd-radeon-r9-fury-x-confirmed-sku-name-for-fiji-xt.html


----------



## tiborrr12

The stock 'water block' is not really something to be put in your customer loop. Search the internet for leaked pics to see what I mean.


----------



## gdubc

But, they discovered how to stop that corrosion, that aluminum is totes safe fer yer loops!









(Sarcasm hopefully detected)


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I can tell you in advance it's not looking good for Thermosphere on Fury X. Some parts of the VRMs are in the way.
> 
> Also, I would personally not leave VRMs bare on such high power card


This is sad news


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Who told you that?


Sarcasm not conveyed.if the only difference between the 290x and 390x is compute units and the reference PCB is exactly the same as shown by the early 390x purchase threads then for reference 390x the 290x blocks will fit. For non-reference it is the same crap shoot as always.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> The stock 'water block' is not really something to be put in your customer loop. Search the internet for leaked pics to see what I mean.


But Kenny Lin thinks its okay?


----------



## VSG

Oh dear


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah um no. If you've seen the pics of the CLC you'll find that not only can you not just add fittings you cannot run the CLC system. It's a closed liquid cooler. Same as R9 290 but a diffent loop.

I blame ASUS RoG cards for that misconception. You could put fittings on that but I am relatively sure there is aluminium in that cooling chamber so in effect, why would you.









Thanks for getting back to me about Thermosphere, Tiborrr. It's much appreciated.









~Ceadder


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah um no. If you've seen the pics of the CLC you'll find that not only can you not just add fittings you cannot run the CLC system. It's a closed liquid cooler. Same as R9 290 but a diffent loop.
> 
> I blame ASUS RoG cards for that misconception. You could put fittings on that but I am relatively sure there is aluminium in that cooling chamber so in effect, why would you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for getting back to me about Thermosphere, Tiborrr. It's much appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


This. I think most of those AIO CLCs use aluminum so galvanic corrosion would be a real concern.


----------



## DeXel

Is this much nickel wear expected in 14 months? My loop had copper/nickel + Mayhem X1 (last time replaced 9 months ago).


----------



## Ceadderman

How much daily down time?









This reminds me, are Copper blocks scheduled for Fury X, Tiborrr?

~Ceadder


----------



## DeXel

I've been away at school for past 8-9 months, so it's on average 5 days down until I get back on weekends (unless it's running 24/7 for folding).

Could that be the reason even with X1?


----------



## Ceadderman

Wow 5 days downtime and 9mos between coolant changes? No bueno, imho.









Even stainless steel will rust in that scenario. But before wigging out, I would suggest taking the blocks apart cleaning and inspecting them.










~Ceadder


----------



## DeXel

How should I clean a nickel block? Just scrub it with distilled water? My only other block, Raystorm, looks fine (just copper after all).

Also for future reference, I can remotely turn on this PC if needed. Is it right to assume that even if I turned it on for 30 minutes a day, I could have avoided this problem?


----------



## Ceadderman

My Copper blocks get cleaned by Ketchup or Lemon. But I am not sure if that would work with Nickel. I have heard that doimg.so may harm the nickel finish.







So maybe using a green pad an some dish detergent? Just don't scrape at the surface.









~Ceadder


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> 
> 
> Is this much nickel wear expected in 14 months? My loop had copper/nickel + Mayhem X1 (last time replaced 9 months ago).


Bad Luck, RMA time. Sorry


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> How should I clean a nickel block? Just scrub it with distilled water? My only other block, Raystorm, looks fine (just copper after all).
> 
> Also for future reference, I can remotely turn on this PC if needed. Is it right to assume that even if I turned it on for 30 minutes a day, I could have avoided this problem?


Its not really hurting anything so don't worry about it!!!


----------



## DeXel

Yea acid will remove nickel plating pretty much. I used ketchup on Raystorm once, but that's no go on nickel.

I am just gonna do what EK suggests on their FAQ:
Quote:


> Cleaning nickel plated copper: When cleaning nickel plated copper it is forbidden to use any aggressive chemicals (neither vinegar) or rough materials as you may damage the plating and thus void the warranty. Please note also that due to presence of dye additives and other chemicals the nickel layer may also become discolored/stained over time period. However the staining is normally reversible by simple flush and rinse. Cleaning the nickel plated copper should consists of these steps:
> - flush the nickel plated copper under warm water
> - clean the surface using wet non-abrasive cloth and rinse with clean water
> - polish the hardened deposits (such as algae or dirt) from the nickel plated copper if necassery.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Bad Luck, RMA time. Sorry


Thanks EK_tiborrr, how long is the warranty on EK waterblocks?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Its not really hurting anything so don't worry about it!!!


It's seem to be fine right now, but I am sort of worried what gonna happen next.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Yea acid will remove nickel plating pretty much. I used ketchup on Raystorm once, but that's no go on nickel.
> 
> I am just gonna do what EK suggests on their FAQ:
> 
> Thanks EK_tiborrr, how long is the warranty on EK waterblocks?
> It's seem to be fine right now, but I am sort of worried what gonna happen next.


Warranty is 2 years


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Warranty is 2 years


OK cool







. I'll have to ship to Slovenia? At this point I don't think it's that bad







.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> OK cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'll have to ship to Slovenia? At this point I don't think it's that bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yes you have to ship it back in Slovenia.


----------



## andl

Looking better now


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> OK cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'll have to ship to Slovenia? At this point I don't think it's that bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Depends on where you bought it. The reseller/retailer carries all RMA.


----------



## akira749

The Y-Splitters are up guys!!

http://shop.ekwb.com/fittings/extra/splitters


----------



## Janac

Please check out my case in progress









http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/sponsored-scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood-making-of-my-first-case/120#post_24060668


__
https://flic.kr/p/18947172762


----------



## TONSCHUH

Existing EK Full Cover blocks compatible with Radeon® Rx 300 series GPUs[/url


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Existing EK Full Cover blocks compatible with Radeon® Rx 300 series GPUs[/url


Benefits include reuse with upcoming Radeon R9 480X and R9 480 GPUs launching in H1 2017 and Radeon R9 570X and R9 570 launching in H1 2019.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Benefits include reuse with upcoming Radeon R9 480X and R9 480 GPUs launching in H1 2017 and Radeon R9 570X and R9 570 launching in H1 2019.


lol, planet friendly. Just recycle over and over and over and over.


----------



## Ceadderman

Can't wait to see the Fury block, but that's good to know should I decide to go to R9 290.









~Ceadder


----------



## scorpscarx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Please check out my case in progress
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/sponsored-scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood-making-of-my-first-case/120#post_24060668
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/18947172762


Love it, I've thought about using 2x4's to make some kind of a case for a long time, looks great.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Benefits include reuse with upcoming Radeon R9 480X and R9 480 GPUs launching in H1 2017 and Radeon R9 570X and R9 570 launching in H1 2019.


ROFL


----------



## seross69

Was it here where I saw some on looking for blocks for a RIVE original?? if so PM me as I have a brand new set never used!!


----------



## andl

All EK + phobya rads
Done. For now...


----------



## SteezyTN

Can I run two of there's in a serial setup without any issues? I'm going to be putting two of them in my SMA8 build on a few months. With the PPCS 8% discount, I may get them now.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Can I run two of there's in a serial setup without any issues? I'm going to be putting two of them in my SMA8 build on a few months. With the PPCS 8% discount, I may get them now.


Yes you can run 2 of the same pumps in series!!!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Yes you can run 2 of the same pumps in series!!!


Get um!

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Yes you can run 2 of the same pumps in series!!!


Mainly curious because of the reservoir. Those two should be more than enough for:

RX480
560 GTS
RX360
RX240
Thanks!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Mainly curious because of the reservoir. Those two should be more than enough for:
> 
> RX480
> 560 GTS
> RX360
> RX240
> Thanks!


I bet 1 pump could push that. You might not get 2gal/min but I bet you would have a flow of fluid. Maybe .75/1 gal per min

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I bet 1 pump could push that. You might not get 2gal/min but I bet you would have a flow of fluid. Maybe .75/1 gal per min
> 
> TCO


My loop now consist of a 360, and two 240's. With the CPU and two GPU blocks, my loop takes about 1 1/2 liters of fluid. A 480 and 560 takes about a whole liter alone, which would be about 2 1/2 liters of fluid. One pump should be enough, but with the added pump, it should give better flow and possibly a few degrees in lower temps. I may just get one pump for now, and add the second later.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> My loop now consist of a 360, and two 240's. With the CPU and two GPU blocks, my loop takes about 1 1/2 liters of fluid. A 480 and 560 takes about a whole liter alone, which would be about 2 1/2 liters of fluid. One pump should be enough, but with the added pump, it should give better flow and possibly a few degrees in lower temps. I may just get one pump for now, and add the second later.


See wermad crazy insane caselabs case build. He is using one pump for a whole hunch of monsta rads. Flow won't give a noticeable difference in temp outside of going from no flow to flow. Stick with the one pump. Also if wait alittle make sure you know exactly what you want do you can enjoy the build and not want to upgrade the next day


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> See wermad crazy insane caselabs case build. He is using one pump for a whole hunch of monsta rads. Flow won't give a noticeable difference in temp outside of going from no flow to flow. Stick with the one pump. Also if wait alittle make sure you know exactly what you want do you can enjoy the build and not want to upgrade the next day


I love my build now. However, being it a smaller case (750D) and three radiators, it fills it with so much heat. My top radiator gets filled with all that heat. With an SMA8, temps would drop significantly by it being a bigger case. That's my only reason to upgrade.


----------



## f1schu

A few mods to the aluminium IO cover on the rampage and the AquaComputer active backplate to stop the cover and ram clips getting in the way of the gpu and I finally managed to get card number 1 in the 1st x16 slot...result ☺
Very close with with my EK monoblock as well, the phrase 'like a glove' springs to mind lol.

Just need to get the other card sorted and installed and it will be time to start bending tubes.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I love my build now. However, being it a smaller case (750D) and three radiators, it fills it with so much heat. My top radiator gets filled with all that heat. With an SMA8, temps would drop significantly by it being a bigger case. That's my only reason to upgrade.


I hear ya in the same way I wanna upgrade so bad from the enthoo pro while I like it I want more room and a case like caselabs that can be easly modded for many different builds


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Benefits include reuse with upcoming Radeon R9 480X and R9 480 GPUs launching in H1 2017 and Radeon R9 570X and R9 570 launching in H1 2019.


... but only if AMD or maybe again ATI is still existent.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to see the Fury block, but that's good to know should I decide to go to R9 290.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It looks like that it will be really hard to get one of the Fury's.

They have not even enough samples for all the reviews (only 10 for whole Europe) and give them only to testers which are sucking-up there butt and don't commend in a negative way about AMD.


----------



## Ceadderman

They'll have enough. An if they don't, I will just wait for some nVidia fanboi to sell his when nVidia launches their latest.









~Ceadder


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to see the Fury block, but that's good to know should I decide to go to R9 290.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They'll have enough. An if they don't, I will just wait for some nVidia fanboi to sell his when nVidia launches their latest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder












Is HBM Memory Production Affecting Availability of AMD Fury Series GPUs ?

HBM Memory Overclocking to be Locked on Fiji

AMD withdraw KitGuru Fury X sample over 'negative content'

Things go from Bad to Worse for Reviews of AMD Radeon Fury X

AMD rumored to be breaking into pieces, could we see ATI reborn ?

AMD Considering A Breakup Of CPU And Graphics Businesses - Potentially Spinning Them Off As Separate Entities

AMD denies rumor that it's mulling breakup or spinoff

I wonder if we should wait for the Fury-X2 or even Pascal ?


----------



## porro

Hey guys,

I'm probably doing my first watercooling setup soonish (CPU only). I still know very little about all the components so I was wondering if you could give me a good setup...
Are the starter kits any good? If so, I might go for the one with the 360 rad.

I'm not planning huge overclocking (I tend to stay under 1.3 vCore), I'm just looking for a more silent operation combined with great looks.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to see the Fury block, but that's good to know should I decide to go to R9 290.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They'll have enough. An if they don't, I will just wait for some nVidia fanboi to sell his when nVidia launches their latest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is HBM Memory Production Affecting Availability of AMD Fury Series GPUs ?
> 
> HBM Memory Overclocking to be Locked on Fiji
> 
> AMD withdraw KitGuru Fury X sample over 'negative content'
> 
> Things go from Bad to Worse for Reviews of AMD Radeon Fury X
> 
> AMD rumored to be breaking into pieces, could we see ATI reborn ?
> 
> AMD Considering A Breakup Of CPU And Graphics Businesses - Potentially Spinning Them Off As Separate Entities
> 
> AMD denies rumor that it's mulling breakup or spinoff
> 
> I wonder if we should wait for the Fury-X2 or even Pascal ?
Click to expand...

That's because all the people who like to "offer up their precious bits" for NVidia LOVE to post anything negative towards AMD. It's the same thing every launch, all the NVidia fanboys complain when things don't go perfectly well for AMD but when they do release a card that ends up doing well, they complain still on some technicalities of whatever, it's disgusting.

If you don't want the card, whatever. Don't complain in here. I, for one, am greatly looking forward to this card and will try and buy one day one.

Now, back to EK related water cooling components.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porro*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm probably doing my first watercooling setup soonish (CPU only). I still know very little about all the components so I was wondering if you could give me a good setup...
> Are the starter kits any good? If so, I might go for the one with the 360 rad.
> 
> I'm not planning huge overclocking (I tend to stay under 1.3 vCore), I'm just looking for a more silent operation combined with great looks.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Yes our starter kit would do an excellent job and also have the strenght to add a GPU waterblock in the future if you want. At this moment, all you would need to buy is your GPU waterblock, 2 fittings and maybe some extra tubing if you don't have any left from the kit.

My suggestion is the EK-KIT L360 (R2.0)









If I look at your system, you have an Enthoo Pro so you will be okay in terms of rad/fan thickness since the PE Radiator is 40mm thick and the Vardar fans are 25mm for a total of 65mm and on the Enthoo Pro, you have an easy 70mm of top clearance.


----------



## Blackops_2

Tahiti Time well when i get the screws to actually mount the backplate lol


----------



## porro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes our starter kit would do an excellent job and also have the strenght to add a GPU waterblock in the future if you want. At this moment, all you would need to buy is your GPU waterblock, 2 fittings and maybe some extra tubing if you don't have any left from the kit.
> 
> My suggestion is the EK-KIT L360 (R2.0)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I look at your system, you have an Enthoo Pro so you will be okay in terms of rad/fan thickness since the PE Radiator is 40mm thick and the Vardar fans are 25mm for a total of 65mm and on the Enthoo Pro, you have an easy 70mm of top clearance.


Thanks for the quick reply!

Are there any benchmarks comparing this kit with aircoolers or AOI-coolers?


----------



## WerePug

Does anyone know, if the EK parallel blanking piece for the 3+ slot terminal connectors is compatible with the plexi/acrylic versions of the terminals? They are not explicitly listed on the product page, but I seem to remember the plexi terminal connectors are quite new.

Products in question:
http://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-blank-parallel

http://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WerePug*
> 
> Does anyone know, if the EK parallel blanking piece for the 3+ slot terminal connectors is compatible with the plexi/acrylic versions of the terminals? They are not explicitly listed on the product page, but I seem to remember the plexi terminal connectors are quite new.
> 
> Products in question:
> http://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-blank-parallel
> 
> http://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi


Yes they are compatible


----------



## WerePug

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes they are compatible


Great, thanks!


----------



## Anateus

Is it hard/problematic to change EK res tubes in pump/res combos? I want 25cm reservoirs


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Is it hard/problematic to change EK res tubes in pump/res combos? I want 25cm reservoirs


Will be doing the same in a couple of days. Changing the default 140mm one in my combo to a 250mm one. Shouldn't be that hard from what I have seen in the manuals.


----------



## DancingOnAshes

Recently bought the 480mm Coolstream PE and I got to say that it freaking dominates my cooling loop. omg. As it is right now my idle loop fluid is running at just around 30 degrees with the outflow being a full degree below that and when I crank up Rage or Far Cry 4 on my overclocked 980 it barely budges by more than 3-4 degrees. Thank you at EK for an excellent product.

Addendum; I should clarify that it is an addition to a 120mm EK rad and a 240 *unknown manufacturer*


----------



## Anateus

When are you going to release your PETG tubing? Will it be compatible with your hardline fittings?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> When are you going to release your PETG tubing? Will it be compatible with your hardline fittings?


Soon. Yes.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Is it hard/problematic to change EK res tubes in pump/res combos? I want 25cm reservoirs


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Will be doing the same in a couple of days. Changing the default 140mm one in my combo to a 250mm one. Shouldn't be that hard from what I have seen in the manuals.


It's only a matter of unscrewing your old tube and screwing the new one


----------



## flyboyovyick

Maybe you guys can help me out, how would I work out how much coolant I'll need for a loop in a TJ-07 with the following parts?

EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel (Original CSQ)
EK-BAY DCP 2.2 Combo Unit - Including Water Pump
EK-CoolStream PE 480 Quad Radiator
EK-FC970 GTX ACX Nickel+Glass
EK-ACF Fitting 13/19mm Soft Tube Compression Fitting G1/4, Brass - Nickel Plated

I was thinking 2 litres is enough but what do you think?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyboyovyick*
> 
> Maybe you guys can help me out, how would I work out how much coolant I'll need for a loop in a TJ-07 with the following parts?
> 
> EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel (Original CSQ)
> EK-BAY DCP 2.2 Combo Unit - Including Water Pump
> EK-CoolStream PE 480 Quad Radiator
> EK-FC970 GTX ACX Nickel+Glass
> EK-ACF Fitting 13/19mm Soft Tube Compression Fitting G1/4, Brass - Nickel Plated
> 
> I was thinking 2 litres is enough but what do you think?


2L should be good.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyboyovyick*
> 
> Maybe you guys can help me out, how would I work out how much coolant I'll need for a loop in a TJ-07 with the following parts?
> 
> EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel (Original CSQ)
> EK-BAY DCP 2.2 Combo Unit - Including Water Pump
> EK-CoolStream PE 480 Quad Radiator
> EK-FC970 GTX ACX Nickel+Glass
> EK-ACF Fitting 13/19mm Soft Tube Compression Fitting G1/4, Brass - Nickel Plated
> 
> I was thinking 2 litres is enough but what do you think?


You might even be okay with 1L. The PE480 is what will hold the biggest quantity of coolant and it's capacity is ~235ml

2L is more than safe


----------



## Janac

Guys, what's an alternative besides using silicon tube for bending acrylic?


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Guys, what's an alternative besides using silicon tube for bending acrylic?


And can someone explain to me why is silicone tubing used in that process? Never found any info about it.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Guys, what's an alternative besides using silicon tube for bending acrylic?
> 
> 
> 
> And can someone explain to me why is silicone tubing used in that process? Never found any info about it.
Click to expand...

You shove it down the length of your tube before you heat it.
It helps the acrylic from collapsing in on itself when you are making the bends.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> And can someone explain to me why is silicone tubing used in that process? Never found any info about it.


The silicone tube is there to keep your tubing "round" at the bend point. Without it, you would "flatten" your tubing


----------



## VSG

I hear a lot of people wanting these fans:



















Oh and these too:


----------



## Anateus




----------



## NIK1

Any idea when the 140 mm Vardars will be available to buy.


----------



## VSG

Next month I heard.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Next month I heard.


Is that the same for the 120ER's?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I hear a lot of people wanting these fans:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and these too:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## snef

ohh no, these will cost me a lot of money, i just love the white version


----------



## Ceadderman

Since I haven't gotten mine yet I may snag them in white and paint the housings. RoG red trims would look sharp under Koolance shrouds I think.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You might even be okay with 1L. The PE480 is what will hold the biggest quantity of coolant and it's capacity is ~235ml
> 
> 2L is more than safe


Well why does my system take over 3 gallons????

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I hear a lot of people wanting these fans:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and these too:


Are those for me?????


----------



## Ceadderman

How much tubing do you have and what is the ID of it? I may be reaching here but I'm kinda surprised that your loop requires 3 gallons. My 360 with MB block, CPU block pumps and 250mm Reservoir ran way less than 1 gallon of distilled I expect my loop to take more when I've added two 360s and CF to the loop but that's likely a full gallon at most. That coolant has to be going somewhere. I would be checking for a leak or two.









Not trying to scare you but 3 gallons is a lot.









Of course you may have more Rad space than I will have in my loop too.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> How much tubing do you have and what is the ID of it? I may be reaching here but I'm kinda surprised that your loop requires 3 gallons. My 360 with MB block, CPU block pumps and 250mm Reservoir ran way less than 1 gallon of distilled I expect my loop to take more when I've added two 360s and CF to the loop but that's likely a full gallon at most. That coolant has to be going somewhere. I would be checking for a leak or two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not trying to scare you but 3 gallons is a lot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course you may have more Rad space than I will have in my loop too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well I do have 2 ea 180*3, 4ea 140*4, 2ea 140*3 and a Mora 140*9 plus 2 400ml reservoirs plus the below small reservoirs!!!



Each of the small resevors take up 8 * 5.25 spaces!!!























































































Just a little

Excessive Insanity

don't be jelly


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Well why does my system take over 3 gallons????


Because your case is the same height as you









One single loop with a single 480 rad compared to a 6 feets tall case with an orgy of radiators isn't the same


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Because your case is the same height as you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One single loop with a single 480 rad compared to a 6 feets tall case with an orgy of radiators isn't the same


Come on we like to have a little fun now!!


----------



## Fierceleaf

Anyone have any experience with these?

EK-DBAY D5 vario (incl. pump)


----------



## Archea47

I'm so jealous of those white Vardars. I'm in the process of putting 15 FF5s back together after removing the fan blades to paint white

And on that note: where can I buy replacement clips for the shaft? The little black metal circlip under the sticker that holds the fans together. A couple got smaller during removal and I just spent a long time on the floor with a magnet searching in vain for one that went airborne


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The Y-Splitters are up guys!!
> 
> http://shop.ekwb.com/fittings/extra/splitters


Nice. Do you guys make male to male adapters and extensions for support of the rest of your fittings?


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Nice. Do you guys make male to male adapters and extensions for support of the rest of your fittings?


They do. It's on the website.

Are they planning to release the white Vardar on 3pin as well? Or just exclusively PWM?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Come on we like to have a little fun now!!












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Nice. Do you guys make male to male adapters and extensions for support of the rest of your fittings?


Yes









Extenders & Spacers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> They do. It's on the website.
> 
> Are they planning to release the white Vardar on 3pin as well? Or just exclusively PWM?


Currently we only focus on PWM fans


----------



## Kimir

EK needs some valve and quickconnect to their lineup.








(damnit, stupid koolance black quickconnect and their buildup issue)


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> EK needs some valve and quickconnect to their lineup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (damnit, stupid koolance black quickconnect and their buildup issue)


The valve will arrive soon. I'm not sure we plan on doing QuickDisconnect


----------



## Wirerat

Im interested in the varder fans. I wish there were some non pwm available though.


----------



## tiborrr12

Why non-PWM? It's like saying: "I wish there was a Ferrari with Fiat 1.5L diesel motor".


----------



## Anateus

Yeah, PWM is the future.


----------



## Dagamus NM

The only reason I can think of is for radiators far from a fan controller. Aquacomputer's aquaero6 has four PWM channels on it but the poweradjust units can only do voltage control. Dumb yes, hopefully something you all address with the ascendancy 2.0?


----------



## Kimir

I don't see how it's a problem anyway. I've got 16 PWM fan controlled by the Aquaero 6. I'm using the EK splitter, so the fan are powered by molex and only the PWM is used on the Aquaero (no heat from powering the fans). Poweradjust not even needed in my case.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Why non-PWM? It's like saying: "I wish there was a Ferrari with Fiat 1.5L diesel motor".


I know the advantages of pwm however On a lga 1150 motherboard I only have 1 true pwm header with cpu opt a copy of that pwm signal.

So I use pwm to control my pump. I dont want my fans and pump on the same curve.

Buying a fan controller is not an option as I have no where to mount it nor do I want one.

I see your point an know pwm are better but they dnt fit every application.


----------



## simon4garfield

Question for the room here. I just finished my first loop and the EK radiator and blocks are all copper and I have a silver killcoil in my system, but the fittings are all nickel plated. Will this cause a corrosion issue? If so, what is the recommended replacement fittings?


----------



## tiborrr12

Step one: Ditch the kill coil.
Step two: Use a nice good premix coolant. There sure are plenty of them on the market. Even petrol station antifreeze, mixed with distilled water (1:10 ratio) is a good choice.


----------



## simon4garfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Step one: Ditch the kill coil.
> Step two: Use a nice good premix coolant. There sure are plenty of them on the market. Even petrol station antifreeze, mixed with distilled water (1:10 ratio) is a good choice.


Blerg, I was hoping to avoid pre-mixes.

Seems as if it can't be helped, as it would be more expensive to replace the fittings than to get a pre mixed.

Thanks for the advice


----------



## scorpscarx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simon4garfield*
> 
> Blerg, I was hoping to avoid pre-mixes.
> 
> Seems as if it can't be helped, as it would be more expensive to replace the fittings than to get a pre mixed.
> 
> Thanks for the advice


I'm pretty sure nickel plated brass fittings are fine to use in conjunction with copper blocks, with water, just don't use the kill coil, my favorite thing ever is Nuke phn. Though next build I'm heavily thinking of going to a coolant over water.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simon4garfield*
> 
> Question for the room here. I just finished my first loop and the EK radiator and blocks are all copper and I have a silver killcoil in my system, but the fittings are all nickel plated. Will this cause a corrosion issue? If so, what is the recommended replacement fittings?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scorpscarx*
> 
> I'm pretty sure nickel plated brass fittings are fine to use in conjunction with copper blocks, with water, just don't use the kill coil, my favorite thing ever is Nuke phn. Though next build I'm heavily thinking of going to a coolant over water.


This ^

TCO

Distilled water with PT Nuke or what have you, Don't change any fittings. Just remove the Kill Coil


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simon4garfield*
> 
> Question for the room here. I just finished my first loop and the EK radiator and blocks are all copper and I have a silver killcoil in my system, but the fittings are all nickel plated. Will this cause a corrosion issue? If so, what is the recommended replacement fittings?


I'm using distilled with Primochills Liquid Utopia. It's a biocide and anti corrosive. ~5mL (1tsp) per 1L.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I'm so jealous of those white Vardars. I'm in the process of putting 15 FF5s back together after removing the fan blades to paint white
> 
> And on that note: where can I buy replacement clips for the shaft? The little black metal circlip under the sticker that holds the fans together. A couple got smaller during removal and I just spent a long time on the floor with a magnet searching in vain for one that went airborne


Can EK take pity on an early-adopter and sell me replacement retention clips for inside the Vardars?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scorpscarx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *simon4garfield*
> 
> Blerg, I was hoping to avoid pre-mixes.
> 
> Seems as if it can't be helped, as it would be more expensive to replace the fittings than to get a pre mixed.
> 
> Thanks for the advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though next build I'm heavily thinking of going to a coolant over water.
Click to expand...











Water *is* coolant.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Ditching the silver is probably your best bet....it doesnt work particularly well anyway. An outdated and now irrelevant method of bio control.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Never heard that before B NEGATIVE. I thought quite a few people use silver? I mean granted a lot of the Mayhem mixes that people use nowadays have biocides, but I feel like most people running distilled are just using kill coils.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Never heard that before B NEGATIVE. I thought quite a few people use silver? I mean granted a lot of the Mayhem mixes that people use nowadays have biocides, but I feel like most people running distilled are just using kill coils.


Silver takes a significant amount of time to reach effectiveness and is bad for copper. I used to run a coil myself and had bio problems a few times,never had a problem with Nuke nor recent coolants.

Silver is antiquated and easily substituted with more effective biocides.


----------



## inedenimadam

I am just going to leave this here.


----------



## Janac

Is it normal for EK HDC compression fittings for solid tubing that it's tubing can be easily pulled out of the fittings? I mean really really easily...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Is it normal for EK HDC compression fittings for solid tubing that it's tubing can be easily pulled out of the fittings? I mean really really easily...


No

Just with the o-ring inside the fitting, you have to use some force to remove the tubing. Then the second o-ring that slide on the tube and is locked with the compression screwing cap to make it more secure.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I know the advantages of pwm however On a lga 1150 motherboard I only have 1 true pwm header with cpu opt a copy of that pwm signal.
> 
> So I use pwm to control my pump. I dont want my fans and pump on the same curve.
> 
> Buying a fan controller is not an option as I have no where to mount it nor do I want one.
> 
> I see your point an know pwm are better but they dnt fit every application.


I have a hard time believing that someone controls fans from a motherboard!!!! Talk about wanting to cause problems!!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

I can put 8/more fans on my current board w/o issue. I choose not to because that's a lot of cable management that doesn't look good no matter how I work it. If I didn't care about that my board would run it all just fine.









If you don't have room to put in a fan controller then a couple fan stations mounted behind the mb tray will do the job and you need to connect your CPU header anyway so there you go. There are several options available and EK will be releasing Ascendancy v2 in the not too distant future with water cooling capability to add to the loop to keep the hub cooler than any of the aircooled options.









~Ceadder


----------



## Anateus

Did somebody say Ascendancy 2? Damn I hope it gets released in a couple of months, as I'll be ordering ~20 Vardars...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Did somebody say Ascendancy 2? Damn I hope it gets released in a couple of months, as I'll be ordering ~20 Vardars...


Why ascendancy and not aquero as the aquero has been around and had bugs worked out!!!?????


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Why ascendancy and not aquero as the aquero has been around and had bugs worked out!!!?????


Im silently hoping that it will be way cheaper than Aquaero. And maybe be even better, who knows? EK is starting to be known as a brand that makes best quality products that match previously unmatched ones (ie vardar vs gts). Maybe they will challenge Aquaero?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Im silently hoping that it will be way cheaper than Aquaero. And maybe be even better, who knows? EK is starting to be known as a brand that makes best quality products that match previously unmatched ones (ie vardar vs gts). Maybe they will challenge Aquaero?


Time will tell!!


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Im silently hoping that it will be way cheaper than Aquaero. And maybe be even better, who knows? EK is starting to be known as a brand that makes best quality products that match previously unmatched ones (ie vardar vs gts). Maybe they will challenge Aquaero?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time will tell!!
Click to expand...

Hopefully they will get the spelling of "ascendancy" correct this time around.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Hopefully they will get the spelling of "ascendancy" correct this time around.


??????? What does that have to do with anything????


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> ??????? What does that have to do with anything????


It was a sticking point for a number of people.


----------



## VSG

Darn right it was (and still is)


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Hopefully they will get the spelling of "ascendancy" correct this time around.
> 
> 
> 
> ??????? What does that have to do with anything????
Click to expand...


----------



## Archea47

Should it matter if the retaining clips in my Vardar fans are either magnetic or electrically conductive?

It looks like I get one or the other off the McMaster Carr catalogue


----------



## Kimir

Question, I'd like to change that silver extender (shipped with EK-RES X3) with a black one, is this the correct one?


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Question, I'd like to change that silver extender (shipped with EK-RES X3) with a black one, is this the correct one?


i guess this is correct one

http://shop.ekwb.com/ek-csq-extender-8mm-g1-4-black


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> i guess this is correct one
> 
> http://shop.ekwb.com/ek-csq-extender-8mm-g1-4-black


hmm, can't be.
"Diameter: 18.8mm" will not fit in the hole, I needed to use the res extender cause the 45° fitting wasn't sealing correctly since I couldn't screw it all they way in.

edit:

Ø16.8mm and 3mm should fit the recessed hole of the terminal, the EK-Extender G1/4 shipped with the pump being Ø16,75mm and a plug is about 3mm height.
@EK_tiborrr Am I right?


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> hmm, can't be.
> "Diameter: 18.8mm" will not fit in the hole, I needed to use the res extender cause the 45° fitting wasn't sealing correctly since I couldn't screw it all they way in.
> 
> edit:
> 
> Ø16.8mm and 3mm should fit the recessed hole of the terminal, the EK-Extender G1/4 shipped with the pump being Ø16,75mm and a plug is about 3mm height.
> @EK_tiborrr Am I right?


here is what you have http://shop.ekwb.com/ek-extender-g1-4-nickel

so you are correct.


----------



## pcrevolution

Being the complete attention seeking turd I am, I've decided to share this pic of some of the EK stuff that I have:





It's a D5 X-Res combo with a now discontinued XTX 240mm..

EK definitely makes some of the more aesthetically pleasing pump tops and reservoir combos.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I have a hard time believing that someone controls fans from a motherboard!!!! Talk about wanting to cause problems!!!!


Well. I have 3 Gentle typhoons and 3 Fractal design 140mm fans running from my motherboard using aisuite to control them.

Not sure how running 6 fans from a mobo would cause problems. /shrug


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Well. I have 3 Gentle typhoons and 3 Fractal design 140mm fans running from my motherboard using aisuite to control them.
> 
> Not sure how running 6 fans from a mobo would cause problems. /shrug


Yeah that barely even hits 1 amp on the headers.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Question, I'd like to change that silver extender (shipped with EK-RES X3) with a black one, is this the correct one?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes this is the one


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Some Ek Love





TCO


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes this is the one


Thanks, glad I'm still able to read those drawing. XD


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Thanks, glad I'm still able to read those drawing. XD












Derick took some pictures recently to show a switch from the standard nickel extender to the black socket extender.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I am just going to leave this here.


Haha the kid is learning fast


----------



## killacam7478

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Being the complete attention seeking turd I am, I've decided to share this pic of some of the EK stuff that I have:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a D5 X-Res combo with a now discontinued XTX 240mm..
> 
> EK definitely makes some of the more aesthetically pleasing pump tops and reservoir combos.






PC Evolution, not only an awesome build, but nice camera work as well. What kind of lighting did you use for those photos?


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Being the complete attention seeking turd I am, I've decided to share this pic of some of the EK stuff that I have:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a D5 X-Res combo with a now discontinued XTX 240mm..
> 
> EK definitely makes some of the more aesthetically pleasing pump tops and reservoir combos.


That is the Define S? How do you like it? I am debating on using one, not quite sure which case I am going to use.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Some Ek Love
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Love the polishing work you've done with the tops TCO!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killacam7478*
> 
> 
> PC Evolution, not only an awesome build, but nice camera work as well. What kind of lighting did you use for those photos?


Thanks! I placed the rig in a shooting softbox and pulled out the big guns with my dslr and a speedlight.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> That is the Define S? How do you like it? I am debating on using one, not quite sure which case I am going to use.


Which are cases are you contemplating? I chose the Define S because I don't own a NAS and so being able to keep some 3.5" HDD while still having a front rad and reservoir sealed the deal for me. Although my case does lack some character and a theme, I'm definitely looking to do some custom vinyl work, PSU shroud and painting when Skylake is out and I'll most likely re-do the loop and get rid of the mITX motherboard.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@pcrevolution Thanks a ton. I can't wait to get some fluid in them









TCO


----------



## Janac

Hello.

Your thoughts about this loop?


__
https://flic.kr/p/18955037160

*and the build log is here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/sponsored-scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood-making-of-my-first-case/120#post_24088782 for more photos*


----------



## King4x4

My toughts it's gonna be tough installing the rams in there


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Being the complete attention seeking turd I am, I've decided to share this pic of some of the EK stuff that I have:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a D5 X-Res combo with a now discontinued XTX 240mm..
> 
> EK definitely makes some of the more aesthetically pleasing pump tops and reservoir combos.


That's a great example of what the multi port top and internal drop tube prevents. That bubble that moves from the res to the rad when the pump stops would be eliminated.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That's a great example of what the multi port top and internal drop tube prevents. That bubble that moves from the res to the rad when the pump stops would be eliminated.


Thanks.. But it really wasn't intentional. Hahahaha.







And that isn't a multi port top for the reservoir. It's just a single G/14 opening. I ran out of acrylic tubing to run the tubes to the intake port at the bottom of the pump top and EK actually doesn't recommend using that G1/4 opening for inflow.

That being said, my system did bleed air rather quickly. When the system is powered on the coolant level in the reservoir drops to 3/4 and it's a quick & easy way of checking.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Thanks.. But it really wasn't intentional. Hahahaha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that isn't a multi port top for the reservoir. It's just a single G/14 opening. I ran out of acrylic tubing to run the tubes to the intake port at the bottom of the pump top and EK actually doesn't recommend using that G1/4 opening for inflow.
> 
> That being said, my system did bleed air rather quickly. When the system is powered on the coolant level in the reservoir drops to 3/4 and it's a quick & easy way of checking.


Yeah, that's the point. If it was the multi port and tube that bubble that moves from the res up to the rad would not be there.
That is one of the reasons the standard top is not meant to be used as an inlet.
People just often ask why that is.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah, that's the point. If it was the multi port and tube that bubble that moves from the res up to the rad would not be there.
> That is one of the reasons the standard top is not meant to be used as an inlet.
> People just often ask why that is.


I used a bitspower res tube with a ek standard top before. It kept the air from running up the inlet when the pump was off. It would not have worked with rigid though as I had to slightly raise the top to fill with the tube connected to keep air out of the inlet.


I already had that tube though. As it was like $10. Might as well get the proper multiport top for $16 though.


----------



## Willius

Hey OCnet fellas! I'm new, lurker for a long time.
But it was time to make an account as I have a question regarding EK parts.

My current loop consists of solely EK blocks/rads/fittings.
My current pump/res combo is EK-XRES 100 DDC MX 3.2 PWM (incl. pump).
All my fittings are the EK-AFC fittings.
Now I'm upgrading my res to the EK-RES x3 250 and
EK-XTOP DDC - Plexi (Original CSQ) for my pump so I can separate the two. (As far as I know this does fit on the pump I currently have?)
Now I found out EK recommends the use of EK-PSC fittings. But as I mentioned before all my fittings are of the AFC type.
Is this a problem? I really don't want to buy new fittings as I already have a fortune worth of the AFC types.

Worth to mention that on both the in and outlet of the pump and reservoir I will be using EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 Nickel.

Edit: I will be using the 2 "front" ports on the reservoir.

Thanks in advance,

Willius

(PS. When I'm finished upgrading I will make a few pictures for you guys!)


----------



## Maticb

I was looking for this:
EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel (Original CSQ Rev.2.0)
http://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-r9-290x-nickel-original-csq-rev-2-0

(ore the first version, not rev 2.0)

And I cant find it any European store anymore







Has anyone seen it anywhere?


----------



## yfwan

I am also looking for a part as well.
EK-FB KIT ASUS M5F - Nickel

http://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fb-kit-asus-m5f-nickel

Willing to pay the shipping. First Hand/User condition both acceptable as long as it still functions properly.

Thank you!!!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Can we get any hints as to what is going to replace the dual d5 top?
There are a lot of things I would like to change about it but it also had some very good fundamental qualities that should continue.

Just as a small example, I would totally be using it if only it was compatible with the pump covers. They make the while unit look so much better. The performance is great though, and the link that allows the res to be attached is fantastic ... If only it had a second inlet on the reverse side of the base. It's a pretty easy mod to add one though.

Ugghhhh, I'm really keen to see what you guys come up with. Acrylic versions would be great too, even if I wouldn't use one because it's too brittle.


----------



## NIK1

My EK-FC980 GTX Strix - Nickel Water Block will be delivered later this aft and I wonder how good is the EK tim that comes with the waterblock.I have some GC-Extreme Thermal Compound and was thinking of useing this.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> My EK-FC980 GTX Strix - Nickel Water Block will be delivered later this aft and I wonder how good is the EK tim that comes with the waterblock.I have some GC-Extreme Thermal Compound and was thinking of useing this.


did you get the shorty one like mine?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> My EK-FC980 GTX Strix - Nickel Water Block will be delivered later this aft and I wonder how good is the EK tim that comes with the waterblock.I have some GC-Extreme Thermal Compound and was thinking of useing this.


I used Coollaboratory MetalPad on the die and Gelid Solutions GC EXTREME on the thermal pads. Not sure how the EK tim compares, but my temps have never gone above 45C.


----------



## NIK1

Did you put some tim on the memory too or just use the pads there with no tim.The install video from the EK site showes applying tim on the phase regulators and then the pads.Do you think it would hurt to put some tim on the memory too and then the pads on top.I was also thinking of useing some cool labs liquid ultra on the die but I am afraid if a little leaks out I might fry something on the card.Just thought I would ask first before I install the block later this aft when its delivered.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Did you put some tim on the memory too or just use the pads there with no tim.The install video from the EK site showes applying tim on the phase regulators and then the pads.Do you think it would hurt to put some tim on the memory too and then the pads on top.I was also thinking of useing some cool labs liquid ultra on the die but I am afraid if a little leaks out I might fry something on the card.Just thought I would ask first before I install the block later this aft when its delivered.


I did, the gc extreme is not conductive, so I see no harm in it.


----------



## NIK1

Thanks for the info.Ups just deliverd my waterblock as we speak.Is the Coollaboratory MetalPad safe to use on the die,does it melt and turn liquid, or is it like the ultra,if a little leaks out bye bye card.I have 2 Indigo Xtreme Thermal Interface kits for a
cpu die,is the Coollaboratory Liquid MetalPad the same as the Indigo Xtreme.Whats the Coollaboratory MetalPads like to use on a cpu die,or is Gelid GC EXTREME the best to use there.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> Hey OCnet fellas! I'm new, lurker for a long time.
> But it was time to make an account as I have a question regarding EK parts.
> 
> My current loop consists of solely EK blocks/rads/fittings.
> My current pump/res combo is EK-XRES 100 DDC MX 3.2 PWM (incl. pump).
> All my fittings are the EK-AFC fittings.
> Now I'm upgrading my res to the EK-RES x3 250 and
> EK-XTOP DDC - Plexi (Original CSQ) for my pump so I can separate the two. (As far as I know this does fit on the pump I currently have?)
> Now I found out EK recommends the use of EK-PSC fittings. But as I mentioned before all my fittings are of the AFC type.
> Is this a problem? I really don't want to buy new fittings as I already have a fortune worth of the AFC types.
> 
> Worth to mention that on both the in and outlet of the pump and reservoir I will be using EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 Nickel.
> 
> Edit: I will be using the 2 "front" ports on the reservoir.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Willius
> 
> (PS. When I'm finished upgrading I will make a few pictures for you guys!)


The EK-PSC fittings are the naming of the old fittings we had. The description of some items needs to be updated sorry. You will be fine with the EK-ACF you have.









Also, yes you can install the EK-XTOP DDC on the pump you have.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> I was looking for this:
> EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel (Original CSQ Rev.2.0)
> http://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-r9-290x-nickel-original-csq-rev-2-0
> 
> (ore the first version, not rev 2.0)
> 
> And I cant find it any European store anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone seen it anywhere?


With the news that the 290x blocks are compatible with the 390x, the stock for those blocks will increase soon in our shop and at the resellers too.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Can we get any hints as to what is going to replace the dual d5 top?
> There are a lot of things I would like to change about it but it also had some very good fundamental qualities that should continue.
> 
> Just as a small example, I would totally be using it if only it was compatible with the pump covers. They make the while unit look so much better. The performance is great though, and the link that allows the res to be attached is fantastic ... If only it had a second inlet on the reverse side of the base. It's a pretty easy mod to add one though.
> 
> Ugghhhh, I'm really keen to see what you guys come up with. Acrylic versions would be great too, even if I wouldn't use one because it's too brittle.


I have no news about it sorry.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> My EK-FC980 GTX Strix - Nickel Water Block will be delivered later this aft and I wonder how good is the EK tim that comes with the waterblock.I have some GC-Extreme Thermal Compound and was thinking of useing this.


I use the provided EK-TIM Ectotherm and my temps are always nice. For an example, my OC'ed Titan X's are at around 43c under load


----------



## Boiller

Hi everyone!

I've been out of the loop for awhile (since I built my last machine ~4 years) and I'd appreciate if you could help me out here. I'm looking for opinions/reviews/benchmarks on wether is it worth to just cool my GPU with a universal block or should I stick with full-covers. I ask this because I'm finally retiring my 2x 470's GTX, and seeing these 2 full-cover blocks go to waste just hurts my heart (and wallet), so I'm considering going universal blocks from now on.
Also note that I'm past my *squeeeeze the max* from my machine, and I'm just looking to get decent temperatures with a respectable stable 24/7 OC. I would also need help with my options to cool VRAM and mosfets if I do go with a universal block!

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Panther Al

So wait.. the Dual D5 top is discontinued, or going to be sometime soon?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> So wait.. the Dual D5 top is discontinued, or going to be sometime soon?


Already been EOL'd

The guys in the EK forum were talking about something new coming a couple weeks ago that they were excited about. Not sure if they were talking about the dual but they mentioned D5's


----------



## Panther Al

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Already been EOL'd


Crud.

Was going to use it because it could be mounted in a dual flexbay on my S8.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> Crud.
> 
> Was going to use it because it could be mounted in a dual flexbay on my S8.


They should still be in stock at plenty of places. They only just recently changed its status.


----------



## Kimir

Shh, when are the vardar full black/white are gonna be put on the store, I'm about to pull an order to watercool my bench table, I'd like white one (not only the F4 will be available right? got my eyes on the F2) to match the table.


----------



## SteezyTN

I think it's already been posted before, but any updates on the Vardar 140's? I'm going to order my 560 radiator later today, and my actual case won't get here for another one or two months. I may as well get some AF140's or SP140's (led). I'll be using a 560GTS (30mm thick)


----------



## VSG

Only F4-120ER in full white for now. Keep pestering EK for a 140mm white one though









Edit: Typo corrected


----------



## fast_fate

Speaking of Vardars,
Aussie buyers can get over 30% off most 120mm models atm - while stocks last.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Speaking of Vardars,
> Aussie buyers can get over 30% off most 120mm models atm - while stocks last.


Nice find FF. But of course the F2's that I use are the only ones not discounted.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Nice find FF. But of course the F2's that I use are the only ones not discounted.










can't get lucky all the time.
I ordered a set of *Furious Vardar FF5-120 3000RPM* to have in the artillery
I like the code in the model #
FF


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Thanks for the info.Ups just deliverd my waterblock as we speak.Is the Coollaboratory MetalPad safe to use on the die,does it melt and turn liquid, or is it like the ultra,if a little leaks out bye bye card.I have 2 Indigo Xtreme Thermal Interface kits for a
> cpu die,is the Coollaboratory Liquid MetalPad the same as the Indigo Xtreme.Whats the Coollaboratory MetalPads like to use on a cpu die,or is Gelid GC EXTREME the best to use there.


I dont know about Indigo Xtreme, but the Coollaboratory MetalPad is working fine on my GPU dies. They are really fragile and tear/ fold easily, but if your careful they are really easy to install. I used LiquidMetal Ultra on my CPU. I didn't delid my CPU, but I've seen other people use it on their CPU die.

I went off Tom's Hardwares tim tests to decide on what would work best for me.

CPU results
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,3616-17.html

GPU results
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,3616-20.html


----------



## Jumie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Thanks.. But it really wasn't intentional. Hahahaha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that isn't a multi port top for the reservoir. It's just a single G/14 opening. I ran out of acrylic tubing to run the tubes to the intake port at the bottom of the pump top and EK actually doesn't recommend using that G1/4 opening for inflow.
> 
> That being said, my system did bleed air rather quickly. When the system is powered on the coolant level in the reservoir drops to 3/4 and it's a quick & easy way of checking.


out of curiosity, how do u fill the loop? Im using the same pump/res combo.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Speaking of Vardars,
> Aussie buyers can get over 30% off most 120mm models atm - while stocks last.


Great deal. I love my 16x F3s. Thought about using Gentle Typhoons since I bought a box of 38 for resale but I liked the Vardar fans more than the GTs!


----------



## Reaper28

I'm still waiting for my F4's to get through customs to mount my rads, finally.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The EK-PSC fittings are the naming of the old fittings we had. The description of some items needs to be updated sorry. You will be fine with the EK-ACF you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, yes you can install the EK-XTOP DDC on the pump you have.


Thank you so much!


----------



## setinhere

Hello everyone,

I have a few question that I'm hoping someone or maybe several someones can possible answer for me.

First off, my system...

ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z
Phenom II x4 965 Black Edition (Upgrading to a FX-8370 next month)
G.Skill Sniper F3-14900 8GBs (2x4gbs) (Upgrading w/ one more of the same kit next month)
EVGA x2 GTX 650 ti SC (Upgrading to a Gigabyte 980 ti gaming G1 in Dec)
CoolerMaster HAF-X
EVGA 750 GS
Windows 8.1

First Question(With a little background info)

I've been drooling over EK's waterblocks for sometime and have finally been able to start saving to purchase one, or two well maybe more, lol, of there absolutely beautiful blocks. My current system has the Corsair Hydo Series 100i cpu AIO for its water loop. I've been having problems finding a EK-FB ASUS C5F-Z Acetal Nickel block for it. My problem is it a EOL part and no one carries them anymore except for http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_878_881&products_id=29143 based out of Australia. Does anyone know if they ship over seas? If not, is anyone from there willing to perhaps purchase one w/ a finders fee and mail it to me? I of course would send them an agreed upon price for purchasing, their time, and postage to the states. This would all hing on how much I'm going to have to spend.

Second Question

I'm kind of on the fence about going for the EK-KIT L360 (R2.0). The CPU block from the kits is the EK-Supremacy MX and from what I read it a decent block. What would be the best block to purchase for my future setup? OR would I be better off buying all the parts for my loop individually?

Third Question

If I do purchase the EK-KIT L360 (R2.0) would the pump be able to keep up if I added another radiator for my eventual GPU block and, maybe, motherboard blocks?(motherboard blocks would depend if I can actually get one of course)

I am sorry for a long post but would rather I put all my question into one post then spread them out over several.

Thank you all for your time.

setinhere


----------



## setinhere

Snip sorry hit the wrong button...


----------



## Kimir

Damn, I got unlucky with my EK-PSC Adapter 90°, all of them (ten) aren't sealing properly on the rotary area. I guess the new one must be much better, the price is almost twice and it's mentioned high quality NBR oring.
I'm looking forward to get my replacement, so I can put my Panda rig together then it will be time to cool that bench table and see how that 980KPE act under water.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setinhere*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I have a few question that I'm hoping someone or maybe several someones can possible answer for me.
> 
> First off, my system...
> 
> ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z
> Phenom II x4 965 Black Edition (Upgrading to a FX-8370 next month)
> G.Skill Sniper F3-14900 8GBs (2x4gbs) (Upgrading w/ one more of the same kit next month)
> EVGA x2 GTX 650 ti SC (Upgrading to a Gigabyte 980 ti gaming G1 in Dec)
> CoolerMaster HAF-X
> EVGA 750 GS
> Windows 8.1
> 
> First Question(With a little background info)
> 
> I've been drooling over EK's waterblocks for sometime and have finally been able to start saving to purchase one, or two well maybe more, lol, of there absolutely beautiful blocks. My current system has the Corsair Hydo Series 100i cpu AIO for its water loop. I've been having problems finding a EK-FB ASUS C5F-Z Acetal Nickel block for it. My problem is it a EOL part and no one carries them anymore except for http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_878_881&products_id=29143 based out of Australia. Does anyone know if they ship over seas? If not, is anyone from there willing to perhaps purchase one w/ a finders fee and mail it to me? I of course would send them an agreed upon price for purchasing, their time, and postage to the states. This would all hing on how much I'm going to have to spend.
> 
> Second Question
> 
> I'm kind of on the fence about going for the EK-KIT L360 (R2.0). The CPU block from the kits is the EK-Supremacy MX and from what I read it a decent block. What would be the best block to purchase for my future setup? OR would I be better off buying all the parts for my loop individually?
> 
> Third Question
> 
> If I do purchase the EK-KIT L360 (R2.0) would the pump be able to keep up if I added another radiator for my eventual GPU block and, maybe, motherboard blocks?(motherboard blocks would depend if I can actually get one of course)
> 
> I am sorry for a long post but would rather I put all my question into one post then spread them out over several.
> 
> Thank you all for your time.
> 
> setinhere


yes the pump is a 10 watt ddc. It has around 10ft of head pressure. Its fine for multiple rads and 2-3 blocks.

Buying the kit will save you some money.


----------



## killacam7478

Hey guys, I'm about to pick up a thermosphere for my GPU. I found this photo on EK's website of the card without the factory cooling on it.

In terms of cooling the other components, am I pointing at the right things? VRM's? I read somewhere that the VRAM doesn't need to be cooled. My plan was to buy some copper heatsinks and stick them on the parts that need to be cooled. The way my case looks, there is an intake fan that blows air just under the GPU. Wanted to get some input (I haven't taken the card apart yet). Thanks!


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killacam7478*


A little more direct airflow would be beneficial. I rigged a 120mm fan to my card when I had a ghetto water cooling block on it, and it dropped temps 25C on the VRMs over regular case flow. VRAM though, you are correct, does not require any extra attention.


----------



## setinhere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> yes the pump is a 10 watt ddc. It has around 10ft of head pressure. Its fine for multiple rads and 2-3 blocks.
> 
> Buying the kit will save you some money.


Thanks you for the reply! (+rep) Anyone else have any info on that website and if they ship overseas?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setinhere*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I'm kind of on the fence about going for the EK-KIT L360 (R2.0). The CPU block from the kits is the EK-Supremacy MX and from what I read it a decent block. What would be the best block to purchase for my future setup? OR would I be better off buying all the parts for my loop individually?
> 
> setinhere


If you are looking at a Kit and the MX was offered I wouldn't bat an eye (Because it will be fine and do a great job, Like all ek products) I believe that MX to EVO will be withing a couple C of each other.

If you buy the parts individually for your loop you will have more options yet will cost you more, A lot more.

TCO


----------



## NIK1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> did you get the shorty one like mine?


Yep.Mine is the same too.I think EK makes only the one kind for the Strix.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Yep.Mine is the same too.I think EK makes only the one kind for the Strix.


They make a full cover for the Strix, but it is Acetal/Nickel.



I think I may be looking to sell the 980's with the block included and replace it with one Ti. I think EK has a full cover acrylic for the Ti....much sex.


----------



## setinhere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> If you are looking at a Kit and the MX was offered I wouldn't bat an eye (Because it will be fine and do a great job, Like all ek products) I believe that MX to EVO will be withing a couple C of each other.
> 
> If you buy the parts individually for your loop you will have more options yet will cost you more, A lot more.
> 
> TCO


Thank you for the reply! (+rep) I've realized this after my research, just wanted to ask people that have far more experience in water cooling, then I have with my AIO from Corsair.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> They make a full cover for the Strix, but it is Acetal/Nickel.
> ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2500139/width/500/height
> 
> I think I may be looking to sell the 980's with the block included and replace it with one Ti. I think EK has a full cover acrylic for the Ti....much sex.


They are both "full cover". They both cool core, memory and vrm. One just covers all the pcb and the other does not.

I know what you meant though.


----------



## Ironsmack

Are you guys planning on a new DDC serial top at all?


----------



## flyboyovyick

Hi guys,

I built my rig and sure enough it took a whole 1 litre of coolant.

My EK X-RES and DCP2.2 makes quite the noise though, not sure what's going on there. Just sounds like pump noise but it's louder than 4 Silverstone fans at 12v.

Any ideas? Also loads of air bubbles that won't budge.

Thanks,


----------



## Anateus

Add dish soap. Two or three small drops. It will get rid of air and the pump will be silent.


----------



## flyboyovyick

I'm not sure about that, Fairy would make it bubble.


----------



## Anateus

There will be some foam if you use res top to bleed. But that will dissapear.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyboyovyick*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I built my rig and sure enough it took a whole 1 litre of coolant.
> 
> My EK X-RES and DCP2.2 makes quite the noise though, not sure what's going on there. Just sounds like pump noise but it's louder than 4 Silverstone fans at 12v.
> 
> Any ideas? Also loads of air bubbles that won't budge.
> 
> Thanks,


Make sure it's insulated from the chassis. My DCP4.0 shifted a bit in transit when I moved the rig last and the pump touching the chassis was louder than my 3K fans


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setinhere*
> 
> Thank you for the reply! (+rep) I've realized this after my research, just wanted to ask people that have far more experience in water cooling, then I have with my AIO from Corsair.


I had a H100i before my custom loop and what not and It performed really, really well with only a 240mm rad space and very thin (Maybe 25 - 30 mm thick? )

Running my 4770k at 4.5ghz using 1.25 to 1.3core V was easily handled by it and kept temps in the mid 80C range during stress test.

Little did I know that once I started buying radiators, pumps, fittings, cpu blocks, tubing.... and wondering where my wallet was going

That if I hadn't been concerned about Looks I could have saved a couple THOUSAND dollars, but with that evolution I was able to to create a computer that I am proud of and Will take risk making another system in the process.

THe Cautious One


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> With the news that the 290x blocks are compatible with the 390x, the stock for those blocks will increase soon in our shop and at the resellers too.


Ah that's nice, I would preffer to order it from EKWB's own store.
Do you have any ETAs?

I am almost 99% going for another 290, since I am still on 1080p screens and the Fury X offers horrible performance gains on that resolution. And I am not going for another 290 if I can't get an identical waterblock


----------



## Anateus

Would one EK D5 pump with top be enough for XSPC Raystorm, XSPC 780 Razor, 560 + 280 + 480 radiators and 2x 250mm reservoirs?
Assuming I wont pick very restrictive radiators.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Would one EK D5 pump with top be enough for XSPC Raystorm, XSPC 780 Razor, 560 + 280 + 480 radiators and 2x 250mm reservoirs?
> Assuming I wont pick very restrictive radiators.


Im only counting two blocks. Even though thats a few rads 1 D5 will provide plenty of flow for that loop.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Add dish soap. Two or three small drops. It will get rid of air and the pump will be silent.


Why add that when he could simply leave the fill port uncapped and the air will work itself out of the system.









~Ceadder


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why add that when he could simply leave the fill port uncapped and the air will work itself out of the system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


After much longer time, it would.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Would one EK D5 pump with top be enough for XSPC Raystorm, XSPC 780 Razor, 560 + 280 + 480 radiators and 2x 250mm reservoirs?
> Assuming I wont pick very restrictive radiators.


Yep no problems









I once had 2x 63mm 480, 2x 63mm 360, 2x GPU blocks and 1x CPU block on a single D5


----------



## Blackops_2

It's tiny







can you imagine a nano with a block? lol


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> 
> 
> It's tiny
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can you imagine a nano with a block? lol


Dont get me wrong, but why there is always that one hell ugly small metal plate on some waterblocks? Cosmetic (







) or necessary?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Dont get me wrong, but why there is always that one hell ugly small metal plate on some waterblocks? Cosmetic (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) or necessary?


I thought the same thing until I saw the 980 Ti blocks: https://shop.ekwb.com/shop/media/upload/image/FC-Titan-X_CA_fit_590webshop.jpg now I think it looks weird w/o the metal piece.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Dont get me wrong, but why there is always that one hell ugly small metal plate on some waterblocks? Cosmetic (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) or necessary?


I couldn't answer that i actually like it though. Rather than the entire cover being acrylic. Dunno why i just do lol.


----------



## Kimir

Is it me or the Support button on EK website no longer redirect to the support (tickets) page but gives you mail address since... today?
I'm asking because I replied to a ticket today, but before this change.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Dont get me wrong, but why there is always that one hell ugly small metal plate on some waterblocks? Cosmetic (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) or necessary?


The stainless piece isn't for cosmetic matters but necessary because of the PCB config. When you see this on a block it's because there's components on the PCB that needs to be cooled that are on each side of a big banks of capacitors or chokes.

To achieve this, we have to "rise" the cooling channel over those cap/chokes.

Here's what it looks under it.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Is it me or the Support button on EK website no longer redirect to the support (tickets) page but gives you mail address since... today?
> I'm asking because I replied to a ticket today, but before this change.


This is new! I didn't even know! I will try to get an answer about it.


----------



## Vintage

wow, definitely did not know that. Pretty cool engineering right there!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Is it me or the Support button on EK website no longer redirect to the support (tickets) page but gives you mail address since... today?
> I'm asking because I replied to a ticket today, but before this change.


There seems to be an issue on the link.

But the real page exist....http://support.ekwb.com/

Thanks for let us know that. I informed Derick and he's looking into it.


----------



## Kimir

Yeah I saw that the page still exist as I had it in my history.








So it is an issue, you're welcome then.


----------



## setinhere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I had a H100i before my custom loop and what not and It performed really, really well with only a 240mm rad space and very thin (Maybe 25 - 30 mm thick? )
> 
> Running my 4770k at 4.5ghz using 1.25 to 1.3core V was easily handled by it and kept temps in the mid 80C range during stress test.
> 
> Little did I know that once I started buying radiators, pumps, fittings, cpu blocks, tubing.... and wondering where my wallet was going
> 
> That if I hadn't been concerned about Looks I could have saved a couple THOUSAND dollars, but with that evolution I was able to to create a computer that I am proud of and Will take risk making another system in the process.
> 
> THe Cautious One


Oh if only I had "...a couple THOUSAND dollars" lol. I've had my H100i for about 2 1/2 years now and last month when I tore my computer apart for some "spring cleaning" it didn't make alot of sloshing sounds when I removed it from my computer. And being a closed system I'm thinking its at or near its EOL from evaporation. I have also seen that my 26c temps at idle are now around 34c. Full load test went from 58c to 74c. I only have a modest overclock of around 710Mhz. 3.4Ghz to 4.1Ghz so I'm not really stressing the system to hard. With a custom loop, I can keep visually see what my loop is at volume wise and if need add more water into the loop and thus not have the same problem that I'm having now. I like the simplicity of EK's water blocks and also of their high quality. Also there great customer service.

I've decided to buy EK's Kit so I'm happy with everyones reply, Again thank you for helping me with my question.

With this decision out of the way I'm just wishing I could find a way of buying the motherboard block. Did more digging into there website and I've found that they don't ship outside of Australia.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setinhere*
> 
> Oh if only I had "...a couple THOUSAND dollars" lol. I've had my H100i for about 2 1/2 years now and last month when I tore my computer apart for some "spring cleaning" it didn't make alot of sloshing sounds when I removed it from my computer. And being a closed system I'm thinking its at or near its EOL from evaporation. I have also seen that my 26c temps at idle are now around 34c. Full load test went from 58c to 74c. I only have a modest overclock of around 710Mhz. 3.4Ghz to 4.1Ghz so I'm not really stressing the system to hard. With a custom loop, I can keep visually see what my loop is at volume wise and if need add more water into the loop and thus not have the same problem that I'm having now. I like the simplicity of EK's water blocks and also of their high quality. Also there great customer service.
> 
> I've decided to buy EK's Kit so I'm happy with everyones reply, Again thank you for helping me with my question.
> 
> With this decision out of the way I'm just wishing I could find a way of buying the motherboard block. Did more digging into there website and I've found that they don't ship outside of Australia.



What about this?

TCO


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Dont get me wrong, but why there is always that one hell ugly small metal plate on some waterblocks? Cosmetic (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) or necessary?


As Akira has shown it is due to the PCB design of particular cards that feature a row of components that cut off the core / VRAM section from the VRM section. Flow has to hop over and back again.



All blocks for the same card will by necessity feature something similar.




Even if not immediately obvious


----------



## Anateus

Damn, thats clever!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yep no problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I once had 2x 63mm 480, 2x 63mm 360, 2x GPU blocks and 1x CPU block on a single D5


How did that go? Was there enough flow? I have one D5, and for my SMA8 build I'll be using a 480, 360, and 240 at 56mm thick, AND a 560 GTS at 30mm which I hear is kind of restrictive. I'm thinking about getting a second. Would a second improve flow, such as twice the flow, or would it be minimal?


----------



## Kimir

See my panda rig too, 2x480 UT60, 1x360 monsta and a 240 UT60, the EK supremacy and 2x780 classy block with a single D5 pump (not to mention all the QDC).
Running my vario pump at settting 3 as there was no improvement in temp at setting 5, so I goes for the quietest.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why add that when he could simply leave the fill port uncapped and the air will work itself out of the system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After much longer time, it would.
Click to expand...

But it works w/of having to add a thing to the loop. I *always* do it. After a few days the air works its way out an I can cap the loop.









Capping with an antibackflow valve will do the same thing but those are getting harder to find. Maybe EK should look into offering them.









~Ceadder


----------



## scorpscarx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> But it works w/of having to add a thing to the loop. I *always* do it. After a few days the air works its way out an I can cap the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Capping with an antibackflow valve will do the same thing but those are getting harder to find. Maybe EK should look into offering them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I leave mine off as well, you can even leave it off permanently with something like foam or cloth covering the port to prevent dust and hair from going in and condensation on the walls(if you don't have one of those aquacomputer res that prevents this), and just let it evaporate, top off once every 2 month or what have you.


----------



## Panther Al

Looking at 3 GPU Blocks, Mobo Block, 2 Ram Blocks, 3 360 Rads, and 2 HDD blocks: which is why I am sad that the Dual D5 top got axed before I got a chance to grab one.







I figure Dual D5 might be a bit much, but rather have more and be overkill than to fall just a little short.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> How did that go? Was there enough flow? I have one D5, and for my SMA8 build I'll be using a 480, 360, and 240 at 56mm thick, AND a 560 GTS at 30mm which I hear is kind of restrictive. I'm thinking about getting a second. Would a second improve flow, such as twice the flow, or would it be minimal?


It was in my SMH10 and was running smooth and steady with a good flow


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's tiny
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can you imagine a nano with a block? lol
> 
> 
> 
> Dont get me wrong, but why there is always that one hell ugly small metal plate on some waterblocks? Cosmetic (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) or necessary?
Click to expand...

Necessary.

Its the bridge cover for the VRM channels,ALu will ruin your loop and POM/Acrylic cannot be made thin enough and retain strength to not warp,underneath are cutouts from the main body that require bolstering.
Stainless is perfect for this.


----------



## setinhere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> What about this?
> 
> TCO


That would be great if I had that motherboard. No I'm poor people and can only afford to get "yesterday's" computer stuff, so have to suffer the possibility of EOL on after market parts. Which then makes me chase the "golden gooses egg" all over the net looking for what I would like to get. Thank you for looking though!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setinhere*
> 
> That would be great if I had that motherboard. No I'm poor people and can only afford to get "yesterday's" computer stuff, so have to suffer the possibility of EOL on after market parts. Which then makes me chase the "golden gooses egg" all over the net looking for what I would like to get. Thank you for looking though!


Wait what board are you talking about?

TCO

Sorry I missed this detail!


----------



## setinhere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Wait what board are you talking about?
> 
> TCO
> 
> Sorry I missed this detail!


I've got the Crosshair 5 Formula-Z. I think it came out in what... 2010? So that is why I'm saying "yesterday's" board. Or should I say "yesterday's yesteday" board lol.


----------



## MrPT

Remember my problems with ek supremacy evo ? Funny thing I've got new evo and all my problems with flow rate and cpu temperatures are gone. After that situation EKWB got a huge minus, especially their support. Entire conversation they claim block that i got from them is ok and the problem is in my pump. By them mcp355 is to weak too run system below

Anyway loop is fine, with nice flow rate and great temps


----------



## VSG

Good news that, glad it worked out eventually. I wonder if there was an airlock somewhere before.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setinhere*
> 
> I've got the Crosshair 5 Formula-Z. I think it came out in what... 2010? So that is why I'm saying "yesterday's" board. Or should I say "yesterday's yesteday" board lol.


Is it not compaitble with just a Crosshair Formula V Block?

TCO


----------



## setinhere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Is it not compaitble with just a Crosshair Formula V Block?
> 
> TCO


I went and found pictures of the C5V-Z and R4E without the north/south/ VRM / MOSFETs, and I'm only guessing on this... with out some major mods to the R4E the board cooler I am thinking, no it wouldn't be compatible. I have found another brand for the C5F called the Heatkiller SW-X, but nothing else for the C5F-Z except EK's waterblock. I just love their looks and want to use just there waterblocks and if I can't find a EK-FB ASUS C5F-Z waterblock to use then I'm just going to have to be satisfied with not having the look I want. I can only hope that when I can save up enough for the ASUS R5E and the 5960X that the EK-FB ASUS R5E Monoblock is still available. And unless Intel sharply drops their prices on current top tier CPU's. That's not going to be for at least 12-18 month out.


----------



## Maticb

Would I be able (how) to connect this:
http://www.getgoods.de/detail/index/sArticle/1467817?sPartner=idealo.de&utm_source=idealo.de&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PowerColor%20Radeon%20R9%20290X%20LCS%20OC%20LiquidCooling%204GB%20GDDR5%20%28wie%20NEU%29

With my 290 with this waterblock:
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-r9-290x-original-csq-nickel

In any way to make it look at least half decent? That LCS edition is just super cheap.

God damn lol, why did I buy this weird CSQ waterblock


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setinhere*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Wait what board are you talking about?
> 
> TCO
> 
> Sorry I missed this detail!
> 
> 
> 
> I've got the Crosshair 5 Formula-Z. I think it came out in what... 2010? So that is why I'm saying "yesterday's" board. Or should I say "yesterday's yesteday" board lol.
Click to expand...

I believe that came out late 2011, early 2012. Crosshair IV launched in early 2010. I got mine 6 mos later and nearly a bit over 6 months passed when CVF launched.









~Ceadder


----------



## setinhere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I believe that came out late 2011, early 2012. Crosshair IV launched in early 2010. I got mine 6 mos later and nearly a bit over 6 months passed when CVF launched.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks for the correction! (+rep)


----------



## fisher6

Turns out the stuff in my block that we all thought was plasticizer is NOT. The Advanced LRT tubing looks fine after I drained my loop today. Seems the CPU block is just a bit tarnished:





Will clean it with some lemon juice and wash off with distilled water.

EDIT: wrong thread :/


----------



## dilster97

Wish EK made a Z77X-UP7 waterblock. The XSPC one is alright but i wish it was all dark acetal.


----------



## flyboyovyick

I've managed to get all of the air out of my loop but my EK DCP 2.2 pump is still pretty loud, it's not vibrating against the case.

Anyone have any ideas or will this eventually go away?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyboyovyick*
> 
> I've managed to get all of the air out of my loop but my EK DCP 2.2 pump is still pretty loud, it's not vibrating against the case.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas or will this eventually go away?


How do you have it mounted and powered? My DCP2.2 is so quiet I have to look in my res to make sure the water is circulating.


----------



## flyboyovyick

I have one of those EK dual bay reservoirs, it's screwed in with rubber mounts. I have taken it out and it's the pump actually making the noise, not the vibration.

I think I'm going to return it soon.


----------



## Georgey123

Is EK going to have some reference 980 Ti blocks anytime soon, not sure if my ocd can deal with the Titan X logo.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Is EK going to have some reference 980 Ti blocks anytime soon, not sure if my ocd can deal with the Titan X logo.


But your e-peen will grow when you show your 980 Ti's and people think they are Titans..


----------



## JourneymanMike

Fellow EK owners,

Doing a complete WC cleaning, drained my loop and got this substance that looks like pee...



So I'm taking all my blocks apart and doing extensive cleaning. On my MB block I'm having trouble getting the O-rings to stay in place so iI can put it back together...



Have any ideas on how to get the O-rings to stay in place?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Fellow EK owners,
> 
> Doing a complete WC cleaning, drained my loop and got this substance that looks like pee...
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm taking all my blocks apart and doing extensive cleaning. On my MB block I'm having trouble getting the O-rings to stay in place so iI can put it back together...
> 
> 
> 
> Have any ideas on how to get the O-rings to stay in place?


You can try silicone grease. It might make em sticky enough to stay in place.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> You can try silicone grease. It might make em sticky enough to stay in place.


Thanks for the tip!









I used Noctua NH-T1 TIM. It took a couple tries, but I got it to stick long enough to get things screwed together...

Now on to the fittings, tubing and GPU's. The CPU block and MB block are done

PS: I have to blitz the rads, I believe that's where the color came from...

+REP


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyboyovyick*
> 
> I have one of those EK dual bay reservoirs, it's screwed in with rubber mounts. I have taken it out and it's the pump actually making the noise, not the vibration.
> 
> I think I'm going to return it soon.


Another customer had a similar issue with his bay-res and he slightly loosen the screws that secure the pump on the res. Nothing to make it leak and the noise suddenly got away.

It might be worth the try.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Is EK going to have some reference 980 Ti blocks anytime soon, not sure if my ocd can deal with the Titan X logo.


Sorry for you OCD but no there won't be any 980Ti reference block. The Titan X is the official block for them.


----------



## szeged

can never have enough EK













excuse any dust/bad lighting, experimenting with this camera and not ready for final build pics yet.


----------



## Kimir

I'm sure someone already asked, but any idea of the 980KPE block gonna fit the 980Ti KPE as of yet?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I'm sure someone already asked, but any idea of the 980KPE block gonna fit the 980Ti KPE as of yet?


on the current custom 980ti pcbs the area around the sli connectors seems to be different than the regular 980 in general so the KPE might also be different around there.

VRM area is probably a safe bet on being the same as the KPE vrm has the most beefed up insane section ever lol.

obviously more vram so you might have to shove more thermal pads in there to compensate.

from the pics weve seen of the 980ti kpe most of it looks the same.


----------



## Kimir

Let's cross finger then, I didn't plan on going to the Ti KPE, but since the 980 doesn't want to play as easily as the 780Ti, if the 980Ti is doing better (probably won't pre-order that one and wait for users review) I might go crazy and get one... Since I'm actually debating on taking the block, would be nice if I could reuse it lol.


----------



## killacam7478

Just picked up my universal GPU block (Thermosphere) and installed it this past weekend. Not as fancy as a lot of the awesome stuff I've seen on this EK thread, but it was my best option for my particular GPU. Temps are great and although I have a small pump (2.2), my CPU temps are still good. Just waiting on a few parts from FrozenCPU to swap.

For the VRM's, my original cooler on my XFX 280X had this metal shroud on it, so I sawed off the most of it and left the VRM thermal pad and metal piece. However, it still got really hot with no fan on them after running Furmark. When my aluminum/copper heatsinks come in the mail this week, , would you suggest putting them on top of the metal shroud? Or take the metal shroud piece off and just use the heatsinks directly on the VRM's? Sorry I forgot to take a picture of it before coming to work. Thanks!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killacam7478*
> 
> Just picked up my universal GPU block (Thermosphere) and installed it this past weekend. Not as fancy as a lot of the awesome stuff I've seen on this EK thread, but it was my best option for my particular GPU. Temps are great and although I have a small pump (2.2), my CPU temps are still good. Just waiting on a few parts from *FrozenCPU to swap.*
> 
> For the VRM's, my original cooler on my XFX 280X had this metal shroud on it, so I sawed off the most of it and left the VRM thermal pad and metal piece. However, it still got really hot with no fan on them after running Furmark. When my aluminum/copper heatsinks come in the mail this week, , would you suggest putting them on top of the metal shroud? Or take the metal shroud piece off and just use the heatsinks directly on the VRM's? Sorry I forgot to take a picture of it before coming to work. Thanks!










Not sure if Typo.... Or Just out of the loop....

TCO


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if Typo.... Or Just out of the loop....
> 
> TCO


Be a helluva wait. Lol


----------



## BugBash

Hey Club!

I already have a 290X Block and 12/16 Primoflex LRT tubing
so just finalising my shopping list for tomorrow,

1 x EK-RES 250
2 x EK-Extenders G1/4 m/f
1 x Coolstream WE540 Rad
1 x EK-Supremacy EVO Block
1 x EK-D5 Vario X-TOP Pump
14 x EK-CSQ 12/16 Nickel fittings
4 x EK-CSQ G1/4 Plug
3 x Silverstone FM181 Fans
3 x 1 Litre Clear premix

*PLEASE GUYS, IS THERE ANYTHING YOU THINK I HAVE MISSED??*
I dont want to get to the last lap of the build and find I have missed something important!








Thanks in advance!


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BugBash*
> 
> Hey Club!
> 
> I already have a 290X Block and 12/16 Primoflex LRT tubing
> so just finalising my shopping list for tomorrow,
> 
> 1 x EK-RES 250
> 2 x EK-Extenders G1/4 m/f
> 1 x Coolstream WE540 Rad
> 1 x EK-Supremacy EVO Block
> 1 x EK-D5 Vario X-TOP Pump
> 14 x EK-CSQ 12/16 Nickel fittings
> 4 x EK-CSQ G1/4 Plug
> 3 x Silverstone FM181 Fans
> 3 x 1 Litre Clear premix
> 
> *PLEASE GUYS, IS THERE ANYTHING YOU THINK I HAVE MISSED??*
> I dont want to get to the last lap of the build and find I have missed something important!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!


You always need more stuff.


----------



## szeged

hey EK, gonna have 980ti strix blocks ready for its launch? i saw you had one made for computex.


----------



## setinhere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killacam7478*
> 
> Just picked up my universal GPU block (Thermosphere) and installed it this past weekend. Not as fancy as a lot of the awesome stuff I've seen on this EK thread, but it was my best option for my particular GPU. Temps are great and although I have a small pump (2.2), my CPU temps are still good. Just waiting on a few parts from *FrozenCPU to swap*.
> 
> For the VRM's, my original cooler on my XFX 280X had this metal shroud on it, so I sawed off the most of it and left the VRM thermal pad and metal piece. However, it still got really hot with no fan on them after running Furmark. When my aluminum/copper heatsinks come in the mail this week, , would you suggest putting them on top of the metal shroud? Or take the metal shroud piece off and just use the heatsinks directly on the VRM's? Sorry I forgot to take a picture of it before coming to work. Thanks!


Wait.... What!?!?


----------



## skilly

Woohoo.. I made it to the EK club. Just finished installing:

EK-KIT L360 R2.0:

- universal CPU water block: EK-Supremacy MX (incl. mounting- & thermal material)
- radiator: EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Tripple)
- radiator fan: EK-Vardar F3-120 1850rpm (3pcs)
- water pump / reservoir unit: EK-XRES 100 DDC MX 3.1 PWM
- tubing: EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm (2 meters)
- compression fittings: EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm Nickel (6 pcs)
- coolant concentrate: EK-Ekoolant EVO Clear (100mL; for 1L of coolant)
- additional pump holder (120mm fan hole pattern)
- Y-cable splitter: EK-Cable Y-Splitter 3-Fan PWM (10cm)
- ATX bridging plug





Phase one is complete! Hopefully phase 2 will consist of Nvidia's next line of GPUs.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Be a helluva wait. Lol












TCO


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hey EK, gonna have 980ti strix blocks ready for its launch? i saw you had one made for computex.


Yes.............at least i'm hoping for it


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes.............at least i'm hoping for it


i hope so too. i wanna grab a strix when they come out lol. first mitx build maybe.


----------



## killacam7478

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Be a helluva wait. Lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setinhere*
> 
> Wait.... What!?!?


Yeeeahhh.....So, I had no idea about the FrozenCPU situation. I have been on their website a lot trying to figure out the parts I wanted for my loop. I kept trying to check out online but it wouldn't let me proceed to a payment page. So I called them on Friday, and the guy I spoke to said he's new and they are still working on getting their merchant account setup (for credit cards, which I actually deal with at the company I work at and I know it's a hassle). So he let me order and pay via PayPal and shipped it out the next day.

After that, i Googled "FrozenCPU Shutdown" and saw the 200+ page discussion on OCN. They are trying to get back up and running. My parts should be arriving in the next two days...and worst case, I can file a claim with PayPal for a chargeback. I should have done my research, but if I had no idea what had happened, I wouldn't question ordering from them because I have many times in the past with no issues. I'll let you know how it goes :0)

Any thoughts on that VRM question though? If I should attach the little heatsinks directly to the VRM's, or to the original factory "heatsink" that was on the card to begin with?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killacam7478*
> 
> Yeeeahhh.....So, I had no idea about the FrozenCPU situation. I have been on their website a lot trying to figure out the parts I wanted for my loop. I kept trying to check out online but it wouldn't let me proceed to a payment page. *So I called them on Friday, and the guy I spoke to said he's new and they are still working on getting their merchant account setup (for credit cards, which I actually deal with at the company I work at and I know it's a hassle). So he let me order and pay via PayPal and shipped it out the next day.*
> 
> After that, i Googled "FrozenCPU Shutdown" and saw the 200+ page discussion on OCN. They are trying to get back up and running. My parts should be arriving in the next two days...and worst case, I can file a claim with PayPal for a chargeback. I should have done my research, but if I had no idea what had happened, I wouldn't question ordering from them because I have many times in the past with no issues. I'll let you know how it goes :0)










Did you just say you ordered something from FCPU?










TCO


----------



## batmanwcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killacam7478*
> 
> Yeeeahhh.....So, I had no idea about the FrozenCPU situation. I have been on their website a lot trying to figure out the parts I wanted for my loop. I kept trying to check out online but it wouldn't let me proceed to a payment page. So I called them on Friday, and the guy I spoke to said he's new and they are still working on getting their merchant account setup (for credit cards, which I actually deal with at the company I work at and I know it's a hassle). So he let me order and pay via PayPal and shipped it out the next day.
> 
> After that, i Googled "FrozenCPU Shutdown" and saw the 200+ page discussion on OCN. They are trying to get back up and running. My parts should be arriving in the next two days...and worst case, I can file a claim with PayPal for a chargeback. I should have done my research, but if I had no idea what had happened, I wouldn't question ordering from them because I have many times in the past with no issues. I'll let you know how it goes :0)
> 
> Any thoughts on that VRM question though? If I should attach the little heatsinks directly to the VRM's, or to the original factory "heatsink" that was on the card to begin with?


Please let us know if you actually receive anything.


----------



## setinhere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killacam7478*
> 
> Yeeeahhh.....So, I had no idea about the FrozenCPU situation. I have been on their website a lot trying to figure out the parts I wanted for my loop. I kept trying to check out online but it wouldn't let me proceed to a payment page. So I called them on Friday, and the guy I spoke to said he's new and they are still working on getting their merchant account setup (for credit cards, which I actually deal with at the company I work at and I know it's a hassle). So he let me order and pay via PayPal and shipped it out the next day.
> 
> After that, i Googled "FrozenCPU Shutdown" and saw the 200+ page discussion on OCN. They are trying to get back up and running. My parts should be arriving in the next two days...and worst case, I can file a claim with PayPal for a chargeback. I should have done my research, but if I had no idea what had happened, I wouldn't question ordering from them because I have many times in the past with no issues. I'll let you know how it goes :0)
> 
> Any thoughts on that VRM question though? If I should attach the little heatsinks directly to the VRM's, or to the original factory "heatsink" that was on the card to begin with?


If you do receive what you ordered I'm going to call and see if they actually have a EK-FB ASUS C5V-Z waterblock that is listed on their site!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if Typo.... Or Just out of the loop....
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> Be a helluva wait. Lol
Click to expand...

No doubt. I see snow on the Earth side of the moon in July before that order arrives.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> Woohoo.. I made it to the EK club. Just finished installing:
> 
> EK-KIT L360 R2.0:
> 
> - universal CPU water block: EK-Supremacy MX (incl. mounting- & thermal material)
> - radiator: EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Tripple)
> - radiator fan: EK-Vardar F3-120 1850rpm (3pcs)
> - water pump / reservoir unit: EK-XRES 100 DDC MX 3.1 PWM
> - tubing: EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm (2 meters)
> - compression fittings: EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm Nickel (6 pcs)
> - coolant concentrate: EK-Ekoolant EVO Clear (100mL; for 1L of coolant)
> - additional pump holder (120mm fan hole pattern)
> - Y-cable splitter: EK-Cable Y-Splitter 3-Fan PWM (10cm)
> - ATX bridging plug
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phase one is complete! Hopefully phase 2 will consist of Nvidia's next line of GPUs.


Looks Good. I started with the old version of that kit. Then later upgraded to the supremacy MX and a DDC pump.

That swirl in your Res is a bad thing. The pump can suck in air and push it back into your loop, That will hurt temps and the pump even. The res should have came with some black sponge. Push that into the bottom of the res and the cyclone will stop.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> Woohoo.. I made it to the EK club. Just finished installing:
> 
> EK-KIT L360 R2.0:
> 
> - universal CPU water block: EK-Supremacy MX (incl. mounting- & thermal material)
> - radiator: EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Tripple)
> - radiator fan: EK-Vardar F3-120 1850rpm (3pcs)
> - water pump / reservoir unit: EK-XRES 100 DDC MX 3.1 PWM
> - tubing: EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm (2 meters)
> - compression fittings: EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm Nickel (6 pcs)
> - coolant concentrate: EK-Ekoolant EVO Clear (100mL; for 1L of coolant)
> - additional pump holder (120mm fan hole pattern)
> - Y-cable splitter: EK-Cable Y-Splitter 3-Fan PWM (10cm)
> - ATX bridging plug
> 
> 
> 
> Phase one is complete! Hopefully phase 2 will consist of Nvidia's next line of GPUs.


Looks great. Those new kits are so damn good. If they were around when I built my first full loop it would have been better and cheaper by lots.


I couldn't find the pic of my first res ... a plastic orange juice bottle!







and you can't see the horrible, over restrictive koolance rad.

Don't worry about the swirling wirerat .. It's just an optical illusion. The anti vortex is in place and working just as it should. What looks like a vortex in the second PIC is actually the EK logo anti vortex piece in place.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Why can't you buy the D5 black acetal top seperatly?

I already have my pump and I don't want that csq design


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Why can't you buy the D5 black acetal top seperatly?
> 
> I already have my pump and I don't want that csq design


The guys at EK have been saying for a while that they will be phasing out selling volutes separately to pumps. It may be a good time to get a top of any design.

They have said that they want to try to reduce the number of different items that retailers have to stock. Multiple pumps and multiple different design volutes add up fast. Most other brands you get one, maybe two choices.


----------



## emsj86

Just seems odd that no one is getting parts from frozencpu. Seems as if they were shipping it would be known and earlier red on every water cool forum or page. I hope I'm wrong though


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Looks great. Those new kits are so damn good. If they were around when I built my first full loop it would have been better and cheaper by lots.
> 
> I couldn't find the pic of my first res ... a plastic orange juice bottle!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Don't worry about the swirling wirerat .. It's just an optical illusion. The anti vortex is in place and working just as it should.*


Just making sure. It definitely looked like air in the pic.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Just seems odd that no one is getting parts from frozencpu. Seems as if they were shipping it would be known and earlier red on every water cool forum or page. I hope I'm wrong though


Frozen is dead









*NOBODY* going to be getting anything from them unless the pull a Lazerus.

As far as EK and tops goes, I recommend getting the pump with top. Not because the owned pump is limited but because it's always good to have a spare for emergencies. My 2nd pump in my loop is actually my spare. I rarely ever use it, but do spool it up occasionally to confirm it works.

EK will likely rethink their strategy to some degree. Because retailers won't overpurchase parts they don't know they can sell and the vacuum they create with such a move will get filled quickly by other manufacturers. I know of 3 specifically available from my eTailer of choice. Every top *they* sell is one less top and pump combo EK sells. Bad decision on their part imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Frozen is dead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOBODY* *going to be getting anything from them unless the pull a Lazerus.*
> 
> As far as EK and tops goes, I recommend getting the pump with top. Not because the owned pump is limited but because it's always good to have a spare for emergencies. My 2nd pump in my loop is actually my spare. I rarely ever use it, but do spool it up occasionally to confirm it works.
> 
> EK will likely rethink their strategy to some degree. Because retailers won't overpurchase parts they don't know they can sell and the vacuum they create with such a move will get filled quickly by other manufacturers. I know of 3 specifically available from my eTailer of choice. Every top *they* sell is one less top and pump combo EK sells. Bad decision on their part imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I am just saying that someone said they spoke to someone on the phone at the business and paid with Paypal. I don't know what Else you would call that except business, unless they were getting LSD in which case I am late.









TCO

@killacam7478 Tell him what you told us!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

No need we're in EK club. I expect derrickwm or tiborrr will set us straight on this issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No need we're in EK club. I expect derrickwm or tiborrr will set us straight on this issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder










Im scared Ceadder... I don't want my heart broken again....

Hold Me?









TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No need we're in EK club. I expect derrickwm or tiborrr will set us straight on this issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im scared Ceadder... I don't want my heart broken again....
> 
> Hold Me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...











You should be.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I want to believe!!



TCO


----------



## Dagamus NM

Man, I don't even remember what FCPU still owes me. I will have to go look it up.

I posted the below in the r9 295x2 thread but I figure I can poll for advice here too.

So I was so excited to get my r9 295x2 blocks in today that I was singing an ek-fc r9 295x2 waterblock song. It was just saying what the text on the box said to the beat of a Die Antwoord song. This block is absolutely gorgeous, probably my second favorite looking block that I have ever had second to the thermospheres I have (useless but gorgeous). Probably only the fury X block looks nicer.

Anyhow, acetal and nickel with an acetal triple link with the center section blocked off so that I can use both pcie 3.0x16 lanes on my motherboard.

Now I have a dilemma. I am not sure which setup I want to match up to which GPUs.

The first setup is a RIVE with copper acetal blocks (the LE version so only acetal visible when installed), an Intel 3930k with an ek supremacy evo elite nickel block, 64gb G.Skill 2133MHz ram with ek monarch blocks in nickel acetal, two Intel 480gb 730 series ssd's in raid 0.

The second setup is an Gigabyte UD7 990fx with a 9590 and ek nickel acetal block. (The only ud7 blocks I can find are on FCPU's inventory so they basically don't exist) this board has 32gb PNY 2133MHz with monarch waterblock in nickel acetal and two 480gb Intel 730 series ssd's in raid 0.

The GPU's to match up are the two r9 295x2's with the water blocks mentioned above and four MSI 280x 6gb cards with ek vga-supremacy hwbot blocks.

Any advice on which GPU's you would put with which build and why?


----------



## mus1mus

I hope someone can answer this.

I have a Supremacy EVO that I have installed to an AMD System that worked very well with all the supplied inserts intended for AMD. Now that I have an X99, can I use the same block and get good results?

I know it will for it's purpose but the question goes like this, since the inserts were designed to give the block the bow needed for each CPU Type, does each application create permanent deformities to the Block and I should better be off buying a new block per intended CPU type?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Pretty sure you just need the new bracket.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Pretty sure you just need the new bracket.


Do I?









It's not related to the bracket. But the actual block.


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> does each application create permanent deformities to the Block and I should better be off buying a new block per intended CPU type?


Am not an expert, but i think that the water pressure injected through the Insert and Jet is not enough to modify the body of the block itself. hopefully any of the expert guys here can help.

Photo just for viewing the inside (_Not sure what block is that_







)



peace


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I hope someone can answer this.
> 
> I have a Supremacy EVO that I have installed to an AMD System that worked very well with all the supplied inserts intended for AMD. Now that I have an X99, can I use the same block and get good results?
> 
> I know it will for it's purpose but the question goes like this, since the inserts were designed to give the block the bow needed for each CPU Type, does each application create permanent deformities to the Block and I should better be off buying a new block per intended CPU type?


No the block will be totally fine to use on any new CPU. The bowing created by the internal parts is not at all permanent.

It's only ever fine tuning that the different parts create.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Am not an expert, but i think that the water pressure injected through the Insert and Jet is not enough to modify the body of the block itself. hopefully any of the expert guys here can help.
> 
> Photo just for viewing the inside (_Not sure what block is that_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> peace


Should be of Supremacy's or the EVO's.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No the block will be totally fine to use on any new CPU. The bowing created by the internal parts is not at all permanent.
> 
> It's only ever fine tuning that the different parts create.


Thanks mate. That's what I am hoping.









Just seeing a huge Temp Delta core to core on this 5930K. But none of them are on the critical side so I guess i am fine. Will have to pick another though. test them both and the better one should go the H-E.

Edit: I found what was happening.







Could just be the way AIDA 64 Spreads the load to the cores. Other Tests show my Core Temps within 5C of each other.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I hope someone can answer this.
> 
> I have a Supremacy EVO that I have installed to an AMD System that worked very well with all the supplied inserts intended for AMD. Now that I have an X99, can I use the same block and get good results?
> 
> I know it will for it's purpose but the question goes like this, since the inserts were designed to give the block the bow needed for each CPU Type, does each application create permanent deformities to the Block and I should better be off buying a new block per intended CPU type?


I have a Supremacy EVO set up on AMD also...

It came with all of the stuff for mounting Intel 115x, 775, 1366 and 2011...

Everything is there, mounting brackets , inserts and jet plates... It is a universal block...

Give it a go!


----------



## derickwm

Fury X inbound...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1563003/project-tortie-fury-x-5930k-soc-force-enthoo-primo-liquid-cooling


----------



## Barefooter

The 980 ti Classifieds are out now. Anyone know when the blocks will be available?


----------



## Kimir

The right question is, does the 980 classy block fit the 980ti classy?


----------



## derickwm

^Free internet points to the first person that tests it


----------



## Reaper28

I finally got my Vardar's, pretty impressed so far about the same weight as my NF-F12's. I find the bearing wine a little unsettling but music or games will drown that out, unfortunately I forgot the Vardar's are 4-pin having already bought $30 in 3-pin cables and extensions.


----------



## Anateus

Thinking about caselabs mITX build, that leaves me little space inside for pump/rad. I thought about mounting it outside, on the exhaust fan slot. Would that pump be significantly louder than when mounting it inside? Especially when I wont need to run it on high levels (only 2 blocks and 2x280, most likely EK ones when they come out).


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Thinking about caselabs mITX build, that leaves me little space inside for pump/rad. I thought about mounting it outside, on the exhaust fan slot. Would that pump be significantly louder than when mounting it inside? Especially when I wont need to run it on high levels (only 2 blocks and 2x280, most likely EK ones when they come out).


I'm running my D5 vario on setting 3 (3330RPM) on the back of my rig. It's Quieter than the fans. Cant tell its running unless I touch it to feel the vibration. I have pics in my sig rig.


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fury X inbound...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1563003/project-tortie-fury-x-5930k-soc-force-enthoo-primo-liquid-cooling










Subbed!


----------



## iluvkfc

Hello, I am new to watercooling and getting ready to order parts. I have selected an EK Supremacy MX block, but I'm not sure if it will be compatible with 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD compression fittings. Specifically these ones.

Someone else on OCN linked me to 



 video, showing this type of fittings do work with the Supreme HF, but I wonder if the holes are the same distance apart and the fittings have the same diameter.

Also, I am considering an EK-CoolStream PE 360 as a radiator, with some GT fans. Is that rad good or is there anything better in that price range?


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iluvkfc*
> 
> Hello, I am new to watercooling and getting ready to order parts. I have selected an EK Supremacy MX block, but I'm not sure if it will be compatible with 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD compression fittings. Specifically these ones.
> 
> Someone else on OCN linked me to
> 
> 
> 
> video, showing this type of fittings do work with the Supreme HF, but I wonder if the holes are the same distance apart and the fittings have the same diameter.
> 
> *Also, I am considering an EK-CoolStream PE 360 as a radiator, with some GT fans. Is that rad good or is there anything better in that price range?*


Get their new CoolStream XE rads.


----------



## iluvkfc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> Get their new CoolStream XE rads.


I would but that is way too thick for me! I am planning to buy an Enthoo Pro which has 65mm clearance at the top...


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iluvkfc*
> 
> Hello, I am new to watercooling and getting ready to order parts. I have selected an EK Supremacy MX block, but I'm not sure if it will be compatible with 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD compression fittings. Specifically these ones.
> 
> Someone else on OCN linked me to
> 
> 
> 
> video, showing this type of fittings do work with the Supreme HF, but I wonder if the holes are the same distance apart and the fittings have the same diameter.
> 
> Also, I am considering an EK-CoolStream PE 360 as a radiator, with some GT fans. Is that rad good or is there anything better in that price range?


Borrowed from www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015



Edit: I see he didnt add EK EX rad there.
It outperforms all rads currently available according to ThermalBench.


----------



## iluvkfc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Borrowed from www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I see he didnt add EK EX rad there.
> It outperforms all rads currently available according to ThermalBench.


I see, the PE360 is not so great. But I am planning to buy an Enthoo Pro which has 65mm clearance at the top... am I going to find anything under 40mm that's better? All the "medium" ones are too thick and even the best "slim" one has worse performance than the PE360.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iluvkfc*
> 
> I see, the PE360 is not so great. But I am planning to buy an Enthoo Pro which has 65mm clearance at the top... am I going to find anything under 40mm that's better? All the "medium" ones are too thick and even the best "slim" one has worse performance than the PE360.


Lets summon @geggeg, he should help you better than I


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Borrowed from www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I see he didnt add EK EX rad there.
> It outperforms all rads currently available according to ThermalBench.


Check the XE's review pages for the current detailed comparisons.
If you know your intended fan speed, you might find the PE is suitable for you...
as it does reasonably well in the comparisons (considering it's core thickness )for Push Only at low to medium fan speeds.

Over the last week there has been a lot up updating of the individual radiator reviews..
In fact all are now updated with current screen shots of all the flow rate and fan speed comparisons.
Which just leaves the Round-Up pages and Awards to be updated.

The XE review has been published - just the data not yet into the Round-Up.
You would not believe the amount of time it takes to update for 26 rads









The XE received our Gold Award at time of publishing for it's excellent all-round performance.
There is nothing to suggest this will change - in fact the XE will probably pick up more awards - for individual best category performances

Push Only Thermal Performance - 4.5/5
*"The XE 360 set a new benchmark with it's Push Only thermal performance."*

Push/Pull Thermal Performance - 5/5
*"Another category, another first place and another new benchmark for the XE radiator."*

Overall Thermal Performance - 5/5
*"It's results put it well clear of the nearest competitor and it's 97.6 Master Performance Factor score means that another perfect 5/5 score is going to the XE and makes it the current overall thermal performance winner!"*



The CoolStream SE has finished testing and expect a review to be posted in the next couple of days.
With another new rad currently in the test chamber, we will probably wait for that data before updating the Round-Up


----------



## TONSCHUH

Do we have a Release-Date for the "GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 980 Ti Gaming G1 6GB GDDR5 (GV-N98TG1 GAMING-6GD)"-Acetal + Nickel-Block yet ?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Do we have a Release-Date for the "GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 980 Ti Gaming G1 6GB GDDR5 (GV-N98TG1 GAMING-6GD)"-Acetal + Nickel-Block yet ?


No sorry...no ETA


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No sorry...no ETA


Ok, thanks for info !


----------



## iluvkfc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Check the XE's review pages for the current detailed comparisons.
> If you know your intended fan speed, you might find the PE is suitable for you...
> as it does reasonably well in the comparisons (considering it's core thickness )for Push Only at low to medium fan speeds.
> 
> Over the last week there has been a lot up updating of the individual radiator reviews..
> In fact all are now updated with current screen shots of all the flow rate and fan speed comparisons.
> Which just leaves the Round-Up pages and Awards to be updated.
> 
> The XE review has been published - just the data not yet into the Round-Up.
> You would not believe the amount of time it takes to update for 26 rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The XE received our Gold Award at time of publishing for it's excellent all-round performance.
> There is nothing to suggest this will change - in fact the XE will probably pick up more awards - for individual best category performances
> 
> Push Only Thermal Performance - 4.5/5
> *"The XE 360 set a new benchmark with it's Push Only thermal performance."*
> 
> Push/Pull Thermal Performance - 5/5
> *"Another category, another first place and another new benchmark for the XE radiator."*
> 
> Overall Thermal Performance - 5/5
> *"It's results put it well clear of the nearest competitor and it's 97.6 Master Performance Factor score means that another perfect 5/5 score is going to the XE and makes it the current overall thermal performance winner!"*
> 
> 
> 
> The CoolStream SE has finished testing and expect a review to be posted in the next couple of days.
> With another new rad currently in the test chamber, we will probably wait for that data before updating the Round-Up


So, the PE360 isn't so bad after all for being <40mm? Cool I think I'll go with that one, thanks for this chart.


----------



## lowfat

Using a new techniques, tools, and polishes for acrylic now. You can obviously tell which was my old method versus the new.



With some coolant.


Minus whale post the EK CSQ DDC pump top as well.


----------



## derickwm

More info


----------



## Kimir

Bench table soon to be watercooled.

Waiting for some more EK product to be ready.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Using a new techniques, tools, and polishes for acrylic now. You can obviously tell which was my old method versus the new.
> 
> 
> 
> With some coolant.
> 
> 
> Minus whale post the EK CSQ DDC pump top as well.


That looks great! it's so clear now, nice work


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Excellent Work Lowfat and Thank you for taking the time to explain how you did it in your Polishing Guide









Ill mosey in behind Lowfat, (The Pro that he is! ) And drop one in here for my White Bracket Evo.




TCO

God I love white stuff in a computer


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> God I love white stuff in a computer


Is that a euphemism you youngins are using these days?


----------



## Reaper28

Well I'm officially in...


----------



## MrPT

Final loop


----------



## seross69

Loop can never be final


----------



## Kimir

Yes it can.
Beautiful work, I'm liking the dual res and how they are linked.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Loop can never be final


God I agree with the statement


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yes it can.
> Beautiful work, I'm liking the dual res and how they are linked.


It's A single piece from Skeeper


----------



## flyboyovyick

I've returned my EK DBAY pump/res and got a replacement. This one is just as loud as the last one. What's going on?!?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyboyovyick*
> 
> I've returned my EK DBAY pump/res and got a replacement. This one is just as loud as the last one. What's going on?!?


in my experience both d5 and ddc pumps need to be decoubled for what I consider quiet. When the pumps are hardware mounted to the case, then the case acts like a giant speaker.

Its simply not possible to decouple using a bay res. Maybe you could add padding or cushion to the mounting.

If you really want a silent pump though you should get regular bay res and run the pump by itself separate with it only mounted to padding or just secured with the tubing.


----------



## flyboyovyick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> in my experience both d5 and ddc pumps need to be decoubled for what I consider quiet. When the pumps are hardware mounted to the case, then the case acts like a giant speaker.
> 
> Its simply not possible to decouple using a bay res. Maybe you could add padding or cushion to the mounting.
> 
> If you really want a silent pump though you should get regular bay res and run the pump by itself separate with it only mounted to padding or just secured with the tubing.


I literally have it hanging freely in my hand and it's still loud. Maybe I should just return it and get a difference one completely.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyboyovyick*
> 
> I literally have it hanging freely in my hand and it's still loud. Maybe I should just return it and get a difference one completely.


You have what hanging freely, the pump or the pump and bay res?

How do you have your pump running when it's not connected to the bay res?


----------



## Ceadderman

The bay Res is hanging freely.









~Ceadder


----------



## SlvrDragon50

If the bay res is hanging freely you can still have noise from the pump shaking the res.

The chance of you getting two bad pumps in a row is pretty slim I'd say. Can you take an audio/video recording of the noise? Maybe it's not as loud but just more noticeable than your fans.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The bay Res is hanging freely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The whole unit must just be loud on its own then. I am not experiencing that with my 140 xres/dcc combo pump. as long as its not directly touching the case its very quiet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyboyovyick*
> 
> I literally have it hanging freely in my hand and it's still loud. Maybe I should just return it and get a difference one completely.


I think you should. If you are really set on a bay res just get a separate pump with a top. I prefer the tube res combos myself.


----------



## Ceadderman

I might suggest backing the pump mounting screws out a little to see if that fixes his issue. Not enough to break the seal(s), but enough to see if the noise is caused at the pump casings. Which may be seated too tightly to the Res.

I had a similar issue with my Dual DDC v2 top which caused the impellers to bottom out in their channels. Took the pump and block out and backed out the pump screws a tad and the noise was gone.









~Ceadder


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I might suggest backing the pump mounting screws out a little to see if that fixes his issue. Not enough to break the seal(s), but enough to see if the noise is caused at the pump casings. Which may be seated too tightly to the Res.
> 
> I had a similar issue with my Dual DDC v2 top which caused the impellers to bottom out in their channels. Took the pump and block out and backed out the pump screws a tad and the noise was gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Completely agree with Ceadder! Just a hair, like maybe a quarter turn. I don't know how tight your screws are right now.


----------



## flyboyovyick

Yeah I meant the whole unit haha, I'll try loosening the screws on the pump a little now. Cheers guys.


----------



## flyboyovyick

Okay the screws were actually loose anyway. I'll upload a video of the sound soon.


----------



## Ceadderman

Did you try tighten them then backing out a quarter turn each? We're there noticeable signs of any leakage?

~Ceadder


----------



## flyboyovyick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Did you try tighten them then backing out a quarter turn each? We're there noticeable signs of any leakage?
> 
> ~Ceadder


No signs of leakage, tighten or loose made no difference. Here's the sound:


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyboyovyick*
> 
> No signs of leakage, tighten or loose made no difference. Here's the sound:


The noise level sounds normal if I'm gonna be honest. Maybe some air bubbles still bleeding.


----------



## flyboyovyick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> The noise level sounds normal if I'm gonna be honest. Maybe some air bubbles still bleeding.


Sounds as loud as the other one after a week so it was bleed fine.

Any recommendations for none loud as hell pumps?

The whole reason I went liquid cooled was for the silence, this is a joke if it's normal.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyboyovyick*
> 
> Sounds as loud as the other one after a week so it was bleed fine.
> 
> Any recommendations for none loud as hell pumps?
> 
> The whole reason I went liquid cooled was for the silence, this is a joke if it's normal.


It's normal for a bay res.

Get a D5 with a separate tube reservoir.


----------



## Ceadderman

Someone has a dual DDC v2 like mine in OCN marketplace here. I suggest that. You will need a Res too but it will be *MUCH* quieter.









~Ceadder


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyboyovyick*
> 
> Sounds as loud as the other one after a week so it was bleed fine.
> 
> Any recommendations for none loud as hell pumps?
> 
> The whole reason I went liquid cooled was for the silence, this is a joke if it's normal.


If quiet is a priority, I would splurge on an adjustable D5, either vario or pwm. That way you can tweak it until you're happy with the noise. my D5 vario and res top are attached outside my case and its still quieter than all the fans when its on setting 3 (~3330rpm).


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyboyovyick*
> 
> No signs of leakage, tighten or loose made no difference. Here's the sound:


Your model of Bay Res is the one with a DCP pump. The noise level is on par with that kind of pump which aren't the quietest.

I would suggest this one instead : EK-DBAY D5 Vario (incl. pump)

You set this one at 2 or 3 and it should be quieter


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> Final loop
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice build. I especially like the clean soft tubing runs. Very rare to see clean runs like that.


----------



## flyboyovyick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Your model of Bay Res is the one with a DCP pump. The noise level is on par with that kind of pump which aren't the quietest.
> 
> I would suggest this one instead : EK-DBAY D5 Vario (incl. pump)
> 
> You set this one at 2 or 3 and it should be quieter


It's going to be quieter even though it's still attached to the res?

I'll buy one of those next weekend and return my DDC pump/res, I noticed that my coolant isn't UV reactive anymore too. It has only been about two weeks since I filled the loop. Any ideas?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyboyovyick*
> 
> It's going to be quieter even though it's still attached to the res?
> 
> I'll buy one of those next weekend and return my DDC pump/res, I noticed that my coolant isn't UV reactive anymore too. It has only been about two weeks since I filled the loop. Any ideas?


What coolant did you buy? The D5 is just a much better pump than the DDC. It should be quieter, but a tube res is the best bet if you really want quiet.


----------



## flyboyovyick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> What coolant did you buy? The D5 is just a much better pump than the DDC. It should be quieter, but a tube res is the best bet if you really want quiet.


Okay I'll have a look at some tube reservoirs, I bought EK Ekoolant UV Blue.


----------



## Ceadderman

Say what?

DDC is a fine pump. They're quiet too. Each are better at one thing than the other.

1 DDC can push coolant through multiple Rads and blocks. So don't sleep on the DDC.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Say what?
> 
> DDC is a fine pump. They're quiet too. Each are better at one thing than the other.
> 
> 1 DDC can push coolant through multiple Rads and blocks. So don't sleep on the DDC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


+1
After owning both d5 and ddc pumps I much prefer a ddc.


----------



## flyboyovyick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> +1
> After owning both d5 and ddc pumps I much prefer a ddc.


I think there's some confusion here, the pump in question is DCP not DDC


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyboyovyick*
> 
> I think there's some confusion here, the pump in question is DCP not DDC


but your sending back the dcp and getting a ddc right? and someone said something negative about ddc pumps so thats why the replys are about ddc are here.


----------



## Reaper28

My day isn't going so well, what's your warranty EK? lol


----------



## VSG

How did that happen?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How did that happen?


Had rad sitting up outside case and fell off the table, luckily only one fan broke that I can tell and doesn't appear to be any damage done to the rad aside from a few scuff marks


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How did that happen?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had rad sitting up outside case and fell off the table, luckily only one fan broke that I can tell and doesn't appear to be any damage done to the rad aside from a few scuff marks
Click to expand...

Lol no warranty for that


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Had rad sitting up outside case and fell off the table, luckily only one fan broke that I can tell and doesn't appear to be any damage done to the rad aside from a few scuff marks


That's pretty lucky then, just one fan lost when it could have been much worse.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyboyovyick*
> 
> I think there's some confusion here, the pump in question is DCP not DDC


Oops. Meant D5 is much better than a DCP. Though I am a fan of the D5 more than the DDC


----------



## sinnedone

Lighting up the supremacy.











Gotta keep them wires stealthy though


----------



## King4x4

^^

what sorcery is this?!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> ^^
> 
> what sorcery is this?!


huh?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> huh?


What leds our you using for this as I tried a few and all burned out or faded there brightness in a few weeks.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What leds our you using for this as I tried a few and all burned out or faded there brightness in a few weeks.


Trying out the Darkside Leds from Dazmode. (bought them through ppc's though) They have received a lot of praise so I figured I would give them a try. Cant say anything about longevity as this system isn't running but we'll see. They seem to have way better qc than some other brands I've used though.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's pretty lucky then, just one fan lost when it could have been much worse.


I had rad grills on the other side as well so I'm guessing they took some of the hit, I might run water through the rad to see if the core itself leaks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Trying out the Darkside Leds from Dazmode. (bought them through ppc's though) They have received a lot of praise so I figured I would give them a try. Cant say anything about longevity as this system isn't running but we'll see. They seem to have way better qc than some other brands I've used though.


I've got Daz's red LED's, I'm pretty impressed with them as well


----------



## fisher6

I'm using Darkside UV led strips and I'm quite happy with them. Will be ordering these for my CPU block soon too.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I'm using Darkside UV led strips and I'm quite happy with them. Will be ordering these for my CPU block soon too.


His LED strips are great. I have fried a few with my old Lamptron Controller, along with the controller itself.


----------



## Kimir

Soon™ the bench table will be all on water with EK.








Potato pic:

waiting for the 5960X and to make my leak test tool.


----------



## Ceadderman

Can't wait to see three PE 360s on my table. $250 including FedEx Home Delivery. 1st of next month I pull the trigger on my order.









~Ceadder


----------



## killacam7478

Added my 90 degree Monsoon adapter and some heatsinks for my VRM's / VRAM. Max GPU on Furmark is now 49C! VRM's while overclocking on benchmarking hit about 99C and 85C max.

So my L240 kit is doing very some respectable cooling, considering a small pump and a 240mm res - cooling a CPU and GPU. I must have read a thousand posts on "can a 240 rad cool a GPU and a CPU," and luckily I don't think I need to upgrade anything.

I did, however, add two 140mm fans at the bottom of my case to make sure the other parts on my GPU weren't getting too hot.


----------



## Anateus

Should I grab this for my motherboard if I plan on keeping some bigger overclocks 24/7 (ie 4.8)?
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fb-asus-m6i-acetal-nickel?SID=fkdkehv8vjhdr6b6e8434s7o05

Looks aesthetically pleasing to me, but Im not sure what kind of temps should I expect on VRMS with and without it.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Should I grab this for my motherboard if I plan on keeping some bigger overclocks 24/7 (ie 4.8)?
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fb-asus-m6i-acetal-nickel?SID=fkdkehv8vjhdr6b6e8434s7o05
> 
> Looks aesthetically pleasing to me, but Im not sure what kind of temps should I expect on VRMS with and without it.


Mmm EK waterblocks, yummy








Add to cart now


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Should I grab this for my motherboard if I plan on keeping some bigger overclocks 24/7 (ie 4.8)?
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fb-asus-m6i-acetal-nickel?SID=fkdkehv8vjhdr6b6e8434s7o05
> 
> Looks aesthetically pleasing to me, but Im not sure what kind of temps should I expect on VRMS with and without it.


I thought about getting the motherboard blocks for my Maximus VI Hero that I'll be using in my SMA8 build, but I don't know if it's worth it or now.


----------



## Anateus

Well, this one isnt so much more expensive than a normal cpu block and also acts like a motherboard block..


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Well, this one isnt so much more expensive than a normal cpu block and also acts like a motherboard block..


agreed. It would be silly not go get the full cover block with itx. I almost never see a cpu block used on a itx that has full cover available.


----------



## Sem

how much longer for the 140mm Vardars

need 6 of them and would rather you have my money than noctua


----------



## Anateus

Yeaaah. Start unveiling, guys...


----------



## Kimir

Me likey my Vardar F2-120, received them yesterday and I can say, they are damn quiet even at full speed. Much lower noise than the fractal (1500rpm) I have right now over my bench table. They look sturdy too.


----------



## NIK1

I need 4-140mm Vardars also.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Yeaaah. Start unveiling, guys...


I could have sworn @geggeg did a preview of them on his site and they looked promising.


----------



## VSG

Yeah I did, I have one of each retail version fans here also now. No word on launch at this point though!


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Me likey my Vardar F2-120, received them yesterday and I can say, they are damn quiet even at full speed. Much lower noise than the fractal (1500rpm) I have right now over my bench table. They look sturdy too.


Yep I agree on build quality. My FF5s are nice. Took 15 of them apart to paint and they all had the same amount of shims etc. and I didn't manage to break any of the blades. The sleeve on the cable could have gone closer to the harness and fan itself but I replaced the red sleeve anyway

They should be screaming by the end of the month in my new build


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> how much longer for the 140mm Vardars
> 
> need 6 of them and would rather you have my money than noctua


Not much longer, should be end of July or early August. Boat travels slowly


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Not much longer, should be end of July or early August. Boat travels slowly


great so that means they are finalized and have been produced and your just waiting on distribution

i though it was still in the R&D/Testing phase


----------



## Ceadderman

Ascendancy?









~Ceadder


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ascendancy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Lets just say for now that you need to call it Signalkuppe from now on


----------



## Ceadderman

Signalkuppe? I get it but...









That's a lot harder to say and remember.









~Ceadder


----------



## tiborrr12

When you will see it, you will understand the name


----------



## Panther Al

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> When you will see it, you will understand the name


Ahah. And any guess as to how long - roughly speaking and holding you all to nothing - we might get a peak?


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> When you will see it, you will understand the name


I'm real glad that your carrying on with this EK... We need another top notch Controller & Monitor to go against the others... "Cough Cough".......









Hope it's coming on & will soon be able to be played with...... Nice One







....

Nam......


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Not much longer, should be end of July or early August. Boat travels slowly


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> When you will see it, you will understand the name


So it's gianormous I take it. Because I searched the term an it's the name of a Peak.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> When you will see it, you will understand the name


Does it have anything to do with the Margherita Hut on top of the mountain? I read it's got a Faraday cage clad in sheet copper? I think that might be a bit of a stretch given the images I find of it are fairly plain black looking panels on the outside but that's my guess and I'm sticking to it


----------



## TheCautiousOne

More in the S3 Buildlog









TCO


----------



## Anateus

Signalkuppe? That doesnt sound too good if you say that in polish








Edit: Any ETA on release? I will be doing a build in two months and Im set on Aquaero 6.. c'mon, EK, let me give you my money


----------



## Kimir

Google Signalkuppe, you'll understand.









for the lazy ones, it's dis


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







ps: I want one, gimme on nao, plis :>


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm not lazy, I am currently on my phone due to extreme case renovations.









~Ceadder


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Lets just say for now that you need to call it Signalkuppe from now on


Black pcb this go around? ^_^


----------



## Ceadderman

That would certainly be awesome. Even Grey would be nicer than traditional Green pcb.









~Ceadder


----------



## Anateus

Hey.. What about transparent one?!


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Hey.. What about transparent one?!


Acrylic maybe?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That would certainly be awesome. Even Grey would be nicer than traditional Green pcb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Green PCB's will pretty much always be used in the prototyping phase because it cost less than black PCB's.

When the product is finalized and goes in mass production, this time it can go black


----------



## Anateus

So I guess it wont appear before 2016? ;(


----------



## Deano12345

So my new board arrived (yay) but I seemed to have misplaced my 2011 mounting hardware (boo). EK have the spare kits on the site, but says its for the Supremacy EVO. They look identical but I just want to check before I go ahead and order up a spare. Will it fit ?

Thanks,

Dean.


----------



## Reaper28

Would something like rubbing alcohol be ok for removing fingerprints and marks on the backplates and the plexi blocks?


----------



## VSG

Use a lint free cloth instead.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Would something like rubbing alcohol be ok for removing fingerprints and marks on the backplates and the plexi blocks?


Try not to put alcohol on Acrylic or Plexi, It might spider crack.

Try blowing hot air ( huff and puff on it) then Wipe like VSG said.

TCO


----------



## Reaper28

I tried using a lint free cloth didn't really work to well at getting rid of the fingerprints, maybe Ill try and find a softer/thicker cloth


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I tried using a lint free cloth didn't really work to well at getting rid of the fingerprints, maybe Ill try and find a softer/thicker cloth


You are just trying to remove fingerprints?

TCO


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You are just trying to remove fingerprints?
> 
> TCO


Yeah pretty much, the backplates look like crap after being handled so much during install and doing cable management in my case. I tried using a lint free cloth but it didn't seem to work to well it's almost like it spread the grease and fingerprints around


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Should I grab this for my motherboard if I plan on keeping some bigger overclocks 24/7 (ie 4.8)?
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fb-asus-m6i-acetal-nickel?SID=fkdkehv8vjhdr6b6e8434s7o05
> 
> Looks aesthetically pleasing to me, but Im not sure what kind of temps should I expect on VRMS with and without it.


It couldn't hurt but I think you mentioned before that you want or will be using 4790k at 4.8. If so that's what I have my 4790k at with. 1.3v and I use a z97 motherboard Asus pro. My temps core occt our 67 highest temp and motherboard reaches 72 tops


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Yeah pretty much, the backplates look like crap after being handled so much during install and doing cable management in my case. I tried using a lint free cloth but it didn't seem to work to well it's almost like it spread the grease and fingerprints around


Did you breathe on them? Then wipe? You can use alcohol to clean a metal backplate, just don't use it on acrylic.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ascendancy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets just say for now that you need to call it Signalkuppe from now on
Click to expand...

Niko and his Mountains.......

Dude is a fuggin Yeti....


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> So I guess it wont appear before 2016? ;(


There's absolutely no ETA on it so it could be 2015 or 2016.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> So my new board arrived (yay) but I seemed to have misplaced my 2011 mounting hardware (boo). EK have the spare kits on the site, but says its for the Supremacy EVO. They look identical but I just want to check before I go ahead and order up a spare. Will it fit ?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dean.


Yes it will fit


----------



## tiborrr12

Regarding Signalkuppe - If all goes according to plan the MP will start in August.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You got a DFM now Niko? Good choice.


----------



## Anateus

Excited! Guess I'll stick to MB headers for now.


----------



## sinnedone

Signalkuppe = sounds like 80's rock band.


----------



## Ceadderman

Can I apply as Beta showcase for Signalkuppe? I need something by end of September Early October. PDXLan is coming up November 6th-8th and my seat is 142. If not I hope we see it around my time frame or I'm stuck with PWM hubs for 3 banks or Rads and two pumps. Most everything in my build list is EK.









~Ceadder


----------



## JourneymanMike

http://us10.campaign-archive2.com/?u=4035205618bc6da3c213caa4a&id=bc3352917b&e=f0fa99092d


----------



## SteezyTN

So I've come to realize that the corsair SP120's are crap. I'm running a 360, and two 240's. All in push, and one of my 240's is in push pull. When I start my caselabs build, I will use my 480 and 240 with the SP120's, but I will use EK 120's for my 360 and 140's for my 560.

My PC water temps are idling at 31c, while its only ~24c ambient. Now I have TX SLI, so I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it.


----------



## Ceadderman

7c over ambient temps is reasonable. You're *never* going to get ambience at load and doubtful that you're gonna get there at Idle either. If you do your system is off.









~Ceadder


----------



## Blackops_2

SP120s were fine at the time of their release. Corsair just hasn't put out anything new since then in regards to static pressure fans. Shame really considering all the others. I bought SP120s all quiet editions. I like their style with the ring, fits the color scheme of my build. But yeah could probably go with better fans for sure and save some money.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 7c over ambient temps is reasonable. You're *never* going to get ambience at load and doubtful that you're gonna get there at Idle either. If you do your system is off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


With three radiators, that's high for my taste. When I get my SMA8 altogether, I hope the added 480 and 560 will drop the temps. I'm hoping it won't go over 35c and my Titan X's will stay under 40c. They hit also 50c when OC'd.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> SP120s were fine at the time of their release. Corsair just hasn't put out anything new since then in regards to static pressure fans. Shame really considering all the others. I bought SP120s all quiet editions. I like their style with the ring, fits the color scheme of my build. But yeah could probably go with better fans for sure and save some money.


Well I already have 11 of them, so I'm going to buy one more, which would be enough for push pull on my 480 and 240. Then just buy 3 EK120's and 4 EK140's. I love the aesthetics of them, but I'm beginning to think they aren't worth it anymore. But now that I bought them, I'll be keeping them.


----------



## gdubc

My little nice came to stay and the spare bedroom is my pc room. She called this my circle shelf, lol.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I've come to realize that the corsair SP120's are crap. I'm running a 360, and two 240's. All in push, and one of my 240's is in push pull. When I start my caselabs build, I will use my 480 and 240 with the SP120's, but I will use EK 120's for my 360 and 140's for my 560.
> 
> My PC water temps are idling at 31c, while its only ~24c ambient. Now I have TX SLI, so I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it.


They perform as well as other fans at the same rpm. If you look at martins fan testing and focus on pressure at any given rpm in his videos you'll see that they're all very close. What makes any fan better than the other is pressure at max rpm. A 2100rpm fan is going to get you 2-3 degrees over say 1100rpm fan. Then of course there is perceived noise at a given rpm.

Just think about the noise level and rpm you're planning on running your fans at and pick whatever is prettiest to you.


----------



## bmgjet

Just added some more bit to my setup.

EK titan x block, And 2X120 ek coolstream pe radiator.
And some fittings. 2X EK ones and had to get 2X Koolance ones since they didnt have enough EK ones in stock. But it worked out for the best.
Had some trouble with the radiator leaking. I was using the EK fittings and 10mins after leak check running it found the paper towel to be damp under radiator.
Was leaking between the 2 skins of metal. The EK fittings were too short to reach between both pices and pull them together enough to seal it.
So switched them around with the Koolance ones I had put on the pump and they stopped the leaking. No a drop after 2 hours test.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> My little nice came to stay and the spare bedroom is my pc room. She called this my circle shelf, lol.


Lol my two year old loved watching me fill my loop.


----------



## Rahldrac

When you are talking about delta over ambient, what speed are your fans on? I am a bit of a silence freak, so I have all mine running on 800 rpm.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> When you are talking about delta over ambient, what speed are your fans on? I am a bit of a silence freak, so I have all mine running on 800 rpm.


I wish I could leave my SP120s at 600 rpm. That's when they're dead silent. Maybe I can do that with the extra 480 and 560 I'll be adding.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Source: Click


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I wish I could leave my SP120s at 600 rpm. That's when they're dead silent. Maybe I can do that with the extra 480 and 560 I'll be adding.


I run 4x360 rads. Problem right now is my Evga G2 1000w power supply, that thing is noisy. Need to buy an eco model or something I think.

Anyhow, I keep hearing about Ascendacy, what is this exactly? A PCB that controls fans and pumps? How is it connected to the motherboard? Only through USB? or does it also take up a fan header?
I'm guessing it does not control leds? (I'm thinking about buying a Aqua computer Farbwerk)


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I run 4x360 rads. Problem right now is my Evga G2 1000w power supply, that thing is noisy. Need to buy an eco model or something I think.
> 
> Anyhow, I keep hearing about Ascendacy, what is this exactly? A PCB that controls fans and pumps? How is it connected to the motherboard? Only through USB? or does it also take up a fan header?
> I'm guessing it does not control leds? (I'm thinking about buying a Aqua computer Farbwerk)


I juts bought a 1300 G2 for my TX SLI. Is your 1000g2 that loud? Now I'm worried


----------



## Ceadderman

I think his PSU is running a nearly maxed wattage system. It's the only thing that explains it imho. So if he's running over 850w of hardware and cooling components that PSU will ramp up more often to stay cool when the system is being used. Especially when overclocked.

A 1200w PSU would be better, I think. But I tend to go with more headroom=less noise. And therefore there is no such thing as overkill.









~Ceadder


----------



## longroadtrip

Modded the mobo to match the EK blocks...


----------



## sinnedone

Looks good @longroadtrip

Nice job


----------



## BrjSan

Need an advise:

Since the EK pastels are manufactured by Mayhems, Does the "*EK-Ekoolant Pastel GREEN (concentrate 250mL)*" has the exact same color as the "*Mayhems Pastel Mint Green 250ml concentrate*"?

Any body tried both/ have an idea?


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Need an advise:
> 
> Since the EK pastels are manufactured by Mayhems, Does the "*EK-Ekoolant Pastel GREEN (concentrate 250mL)*" has the exact same color as the "*Mayhems Pastel Mint Green 250ml concentrate*"?
> 
> Any body tried both/ have an idea?


This should hopefully show what they look like http://www.overclock.net/t/1422828/build-log-dccc-4-custom-sli-watercooled-3d-printed-parts/10#post_20718651


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> This should hopefully show what they look like http://www.overclock.net/t/1422828/build-log-dccc-4-custom-sli-watercooled-3d-printed-parts/10#post_20718651


I think they are different colours though. It's still EK-Ekoolant UV Green vs. Mayhem Pastel Green. Not EK Pastel.

I think what OP means is whether since Mayhems OEMs for EK, is there still any difference in the colour.

I'm using the EK pastel and while I don't have any experience with the mayhem's pastel, I doubt there is any significant difference.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> 
> 
> Source: Click


Haha, go a bit further down in that post's replies and see that Mark is in jail. He has been there since June 30th so who knows what will happen with the store,


----------



## SteezyTN

FCPU deleted my post, and apparently banned me from posting or commenting on anything. All I said was that "why would anyone want to shop there after what they did, especially how they screwed up all there vendors and such"


----------



## Laithan

I was wondering if anyone has a "ball park" on when the *full block* for Gigabyte 980Ti G1 Gaming might hit the streets? I have this page auto-open and it feels like it has been months but I know not really THAT long







.

http://configurator.ekwb.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1681#DB_inline?height=600&width=500&inline_id=vga_example_table


Yes I'm anxious!








Truth is I have 2 980's under EK full blocks now so my "upgrade" to the 980Ti G1 gaming is *sort of a downgrade as far as my water loop is concerned*. I'd prefer to *WAIT* until the water blocks are ready and NOT install my 980Ti's so I can basically save double work but I just don't have any idea how long this wait might be.. days.. weeks.. months..

(Patience.. patience...)
but figured I would ask, maybe someone has an inside line








Thanks!


----------



## SteezyTN

So by the time I start building in my case labs SMA8, I'm pretty sure the vardar 140 fans will be out. I've decided I'm going to use those over the AF140's on my 560GTS. However, my problem is the PWM. I'm currently using an NZXT Sentry Mix 2, and I don't want to use PWM fans because I hear it can cause damage. Does anyone know of a fan controller that's PWM for only 4 fans and won't be so expensive? I just need something to control the 4 vardar 140's


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So by the time I start building in my case labs SMA8, I'm pretty sure the vardar 140 fans will be out. I've decided I'm going to use those over the AF140's on my 560GTS. However, my problem is the PWM. I'm currently using an NZXT Sentry Mix 2, and I don't want to use PWM fans because I hear it can cause damage. Does anyone know of a fan controller that's PWM for only 4 fans and won't be so expensive? I just need something to control the 4 vardar 140's


Can voltage control pmw fans never seen or heard of it damaging the fans.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Can voltage control pmw fans never seen or heard of it damaging the fans.


I've always heard that you don't want to voltage control fans that are PwM.


----------



## Kimir

Because they are not designed for it, and the fans will make a buzzing/humming noise.


----------



## Ceadderman

I've never heard that. I have a PWM controller. Sunbeam RheoSmart 3. It runs in either or. I know for a fact that it will not PWM 3pin fans. Only fans with PWM cabling.

So if running it damages PWM fans (I highly doubt that) then I wasted $35 on a danged fine piece of PWM fluff.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Because they are not designed for it, and the fans will make a buzzing/humming noise.


That's what I've been hearing.

Do you know of a good fan controllee for PWM fans for 4 fans. Nothing expensive, but just to control 4 fans. I'll be using 15 SP120 3 pin fans on my sentry mix 2.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has a "ball park" on when the *full block* for Gigabyte 980Ti G1 Gaming might hit the streets? I have this page auto-open and it feels like it has been months but I know not really THAT long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> http://configurator.ekwb.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1681#DB_inline?height=600&width=500&inline_id=vga_example_table
> 
> 
> Yes I'm anxious!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Truth is I have 2 980's under EK full blocks now so my "upgrade" to the 980Ti G1 gaming is *sort of a downgrade as far as my water loop is concerned*. I'd prefer to *WAIT* until the water blocks are ready and NOT install my 980Ti's so I can basically save double work but I just don't have any idea how long this wait might be.. days.. weeks.. months..
> 
> (Patience.. patience...)
> but figured I would ask, maybe someone has an inside line
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


No solid ETA but you can expect at least 1 month


----------



## catbuster

I am more intrested in dat Signalkuppe


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think his PSU is running a nearly maxed wattage system. It's the only thing that explains it imho. So if he's running over 850w of hardware and cooling components that PSU will ramp up more often to stay cool when the system is being used. Especially when overclocked.
> 
> A 1200w PSU would be better, I think. But I tend to go with more headroom=less noise. And therefore there is no such thing as overkill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have two 970 and a 4790k, none overclocked right now, so so I not think that I am right up to the limit.
I actually got my previous 1000 g2 replaced because I thought it was noisy. But it was the same with this one.
Nothing else in my build makes a sound tho.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That's what I've been hearing.
> 
> Do you know of a good fan controllee for PWM fans for 4 fans. Nothing expensive, but just to control 4 fans. I'll be using 15 SP120 3 pin fans on my sentry mix 2.


I tried to find a cheaper alternative to the Aquaero back then and didn't found anything that come close to control PWM fans. There is the Aquaero 5LT, it has one pwm header if I'm not wrong and then you can use some splitter like this like I do to control all my 16 fans with the 4 headers on my Aquaero 6XT. But the 5LT has no display/control on the front of the case.

We are all waiting for the Signalkuppe (aka Ascendacy) for that matter.


----------



## Ceadderman

Indeed!









~Ceadder


----------



## THERIDDLER

Im gong to order this pump setup tomorrow. Can anyone tell me if the ek top I have in my cart can be sanded and polished to a clear finish?



Edit: pump changed to aquacomputer-aquaero with USB support. Since I have the aquaero 6xt controller it only makes sense to stick with same brand for compatability


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> We are all waiting for the Signalkuppe (aka Ascendacy) for that matter.


I am just waiting to see if they spell it right this time around


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I've always heard that you don't want to voltage control fans that are PwM.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Because they are not designed for it, and the fans will make a buzzing/humming noise.


I have 18 noiseblocker 140mm PMW fans that i am now running off voltage and no more noise than when pmw controlled


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Haha, go a bit further down in that post's replies and see that Mark is in jail. He has been there since June 30th so who knows what will happen with the store,


Wow, so many twists and turns.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I have 18 noiseblocker 140mm PMW fans that i am now running off voltage and no more noise than when pmw controlled


The Vardar does, I verified it since they were plugged on my r4be last week and now on the r5e which have all the header truly pwm. I noticed that humming on the r4be and not on the r5e.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> The Vardar does, I verified it since they were plugged on my r4be last week and now on the r5e which have all the header truly pwm. I noticed that humming on the r4be and not on the r5e.


Well it may very by fan???


----------



## Kimir

It is, motor design and stuff I assume. He said he's going for Vardar 140 when they show up, I imagine the 140 are similar to the 120 version.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Im gong to order this pump setup tomorrow. Can anyone tell me if the ek top I have in my cart can be sanded and polished to a clear finish?
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: pump changed to aquacomputer-aquaero with USB support. Since I have the aquaero 6xt controller it only makes sense to stick with same brand for compatability


Just go ahead sanding and polishing. Are You thinking of using a Bitspower mod kit with that EK top?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> It is, motor design and stuff I assume. He said he's going for Vardar 140 when they show up, I imagine the 140 are similar to the 120 version.


Wellhe varders are one of the fee fans i have not tried yet


----------



## ALT F4

Anyone know of a place with thesefittings in stock?
They aren't available on the EK store, I see the 45 degree version is still available but no EK-CSQ 90. I needed a few more to finish up this loop!


----------



## Ceadderman

They aren't because they're EOL. You *might* find some on FleaBay. But I wouldn't get my hopes up. Performance used to stock them, but I seriously doubt you will find some there. I wish I hadn't sold the black one I had now.









~Ceadder


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They aren't because they're EOL. You *might* find some on FleaBay. But I wouldn't get my hopes up. Performance used to stock them, but I seriously doubt you will find some there. I wish I hadn't sold the black one I had now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks, bad news for me







I liked these adapters so much.


----------



## Ceadderman

So do I. My ignorance for selling the one I had thinking I could simply buy more later on.









~Ceadder


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Just go ahead sanding and polishing. Are You thinking of using a Bitspower mod kit with that EK top?


that was the plan. Are there issues with EK tops with bitspower mod kits?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Im gong to order this pump setup tomorrow. Can anyone tell me if the ek top I have in my cart can be sanded and polished to a clear finish?
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: pump changed to aquacomputer-aquaero with USB support. Since I have the aquaero 6xt controller it only makes sense to stick with same brand for compatability


Good call on switching the pump - I quoted without seeing the edit to suggest just that









I purchased two EK D5s and unfortunately from what I read they require the 'Diva Mod' for PWM control to reliably work with the Aquaero

My build is the story of purchasing too soon in regard to EK's new product released - could have gotten the new EK rads, the already-white Vardars and now I hear their new controller







. I do like the look of my customized FF5s with white blades, black bodies, black sleeve and white heatshrink though


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> This should hopefully show what they look like http://www.overclock.net/t/1422828/build-log-dccc-4-custom-sli-watercooled-3d-printed-parts/10#post_20718651


Thanks for the the link, but i think he was comparing EK UV green against the Mayhems pastel green.

While i would like to compare the EK Pastel vs the Mayhems Pastel, both green, i would like to know if they have the same color.

The reason is: My loop is already running with Mayhems Pastel Green Mint, and i would like to get some as stock, for later use, the Mayhems is great looking and i like it, but never tried the EK Pastel green, if they are the same i would go with the EK one since it is easier for me to get.

If any body happens to see both, and can advise .... great.

peace.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Im gong to order this pump setup tomorrow. Can anyone tell me if the ek top I have in my cart can be sanded and polished to a clear finish?
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: pump changed to aquacomputer-aquaero with USB support. Since I have the aquaero 6xt controller it only makes sense to stick with same brand for compatability


The bitspower pump covers only fit volutes that use the original laing pump mount ring but EK use a bolted down backplate type arrangment. You would need to change the top or change the pump cover to the ek model.


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The bitspower pump covers only fit volutes that use the original laing pump mount ring but EK use a bolted down backplate type arrangment. You would need to change the top or change the pump cover to the ek model.


Ek makes a mod kit for d5 pump wit a white cover? This is why I come here first. I save money not buying multiple pices haha


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Im gong to order this pump setup tomorrow. Can anyone tell me if the ek top I have in my cart can be sanded and polished to a clear finish?
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: pump changed to aquacomputer-aquaero with USB support. Since I have the aquaero 6xt controller it only makes sense to stick with same brand for compatability


The d5 mod kit comes with the stand. I purchased the matte black one and I received it two days ago


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Ek makes a mod kit for d5 pump wit a white cover? This is why I come here first. I save money not buying multiple pices haha


EK have Nickel and Black, but you can paint it if you really need white

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-d5-cover-kit-black-acetal

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-d5-cover-kit-nickel-acetal


----------



## DanBr

Planned use EK XE 480 horizontal in top of case.
The EK XE radiators have port extenders on one side and recessed plugs on the other. I assume that you must use the extenders for you in and out fittings, but if I wanted to use the top side ports for fill and bleed, will a fitting standard fit in there or do I need more extenders?
Does EK sell them?

It sure is confusing XE. XT, PE.
I think the XE just got picked as top rad 2015, so I am trying to make that work in my system, but I must have top fill.
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/10/

Push or Pull, Is push or pull better with this radiator. Don't have enough room for push/pull without mounting on top the case with a shroud. (If I must that is plan B). I will be using the EK Varder fans and they will be intake into the case

thanks,
dan


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Planned use EK XE 480 horizontal in top of case.
> The EK XE radiators have port extenders on one side and recessed plugs on the other. I assume that you must use the extenders for you in and out fittings, but if I wanted to use the top side ports for fill and bleed, will a fitting standard fit in there or do I need more extenders?
> Does EK sell them?
> 
> It sure is confusing XE. XT, PE.
> I think the XE just got picked as top rad 2015, so I am trying to make that work in my system, but I must have top fill.
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/10/
> 
> Push or Pull, Is push or pull better with this radiator. Don't have enough room for push/pull without mounting on top the case with a shroud. (If I must that is plan B). I will be using the EK Varder fans and they will be intake into the case
> 
> thanks,
> dan


You don't need more extenders to use the alternate port/s of the XE....
BUT - *make sure that your chosen fitting is no wider than 17mm*

I tested both Push Only and Pull Only (though not on the XE) on a couple of rads to determine which was better to run on all the rads in the round-up.
Push Only was better by an around 8% if I remember correctly.
Others say that there is no difference, but I don't recall seeing any data which backed up those comments.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> You don't need more extenders to use the alternate port/s of the XE....
> BUT - *make sure that your chosen fitting is no wider than 17mm*
> 
> I tested both Push Only and Pull Only (though not on the XE) on a couple of rads to determine which was better to run on all the rads in the round-up.
> Push Only was better by an around 8% if I remember correctly.
> Others say that there is no difference, but I don't recall seeing any data which backed up those comments.


thanks,
I will make sure of fitting size
Dan


----------



## DanBr

Trying to decide what GPU block to get
what is the performance difference in these two style GPU blocks for the 980Ti

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-titan-x-gtx980-ti-waterblock-nickel.html#Details and this one

Original CQS design
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-titan-x-gtx980-ti-waterblock-nickel-original-csq.html#Details

the second one does not have inlet/outlet ports higher than the card and might be more difficult.

Can you put LED's in them?
Any other suggestions appreciated

Dan


----------



## catbuster

Is where any ETA for all white vardars?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Trying to decide what GPU block to get
> what is the performance difference in these two style GPU blocks for the 980Ti
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-titan-x-gtx980-ti-waterblock-nickel.html#Details and this one
> 
> Original CQS design
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-titan-x-gtx980-ti-waterblock-nickel-original-csq.html#Details
> 
> the second one does not have inlet/outlet ports higher than the card and might be more difficult.
> 
> Can you put LED's in them?
> Any other suggestions appreciated
> 
> Dan


Same block with a different top. So there's no performances difference between them.

Both tops have 2x 3mm LED holes on the bottom of the block.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Same block with a different top. So there's no performances difference between them.
> 
> Both tops have 2x 3mm LED holes on the bottom of the block.


thank you,
Dan


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Im gong to order this pump setup tomorrow. Can anyone tell me if the ek top I have in my cart can be sanded and polished to a clear finish?
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: pump changed to aquacomputer-aquaero with USB support. Since I have the aquaero 6xt controller it only makes sense to stick with same brand for compatability


the mod kit is not compatible with pump top

you can use EK mod kit or if you need it white

you can use this pump top

https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/bitspower_d5_pump_top_s_model_acetal_white/


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> the mod kit is not compatible with pump top
> 
> you can use EK mod kit or if you need it white
> 
> you can use this pump top
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/bitspower_d5_pump_top_s_model_acetal_white/


I think ill end.up getting the ek mod kit and painting the cover white. I want to stick with a clear top for my build.


----------



## scorpscarx

Sorry if this has been confirmed, but is the supremacy evo mount going to fit z170 1151 boards and socket? Do we need to order a mount kit?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scorpscarx*
> 
> Sorry if this has been confirmed, but is the supremacy evo mount going to fit z170 1151 boards and socket? Do we need to order a mount kit?


Yes it will fit


----------



## scorpscarx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes it will fit


Awesome, tyvm







. I may order another one anyway, wan't to get that full copper







.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> I am more intrested in dat Signalkuppe


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That's what I've been hearing.
> 
> Do you know of a good fan controllee for PWM fans for 4 fans. Nothing expensive, but just to control 4 fans. I'll be using 15 SP120 3 pin fans on my sentry mix 2.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to find a cheaper alternative to the Aquaero back then and didn't found anything that come close to control PWM fans. There is the Aquaero 5LT, it has one pwm header if I'm not wrong and then you can use some splitter like this like I do to control all my 16 fans with the 4 headers on my Aquaero 6XT. But the 5LT has no display/control on the front of the case.
> 
> We are all waiting for the Signalkuppe (aka Ascendacy) for that matter.
Click to expand...

Has anyone seen pics of it yet?

Specs ? . . . . . . Juicy rumors ? . . . . . .

Or is there something on FB announcing it . . . .

Seems I've heard that name before . . . .

I'd be more worried about it's pricepoint before getting too worked up in advance . .

Darlene


----------



## Ceadderman

Tiborrr dropped the name on us a week or so ago.









Signalkuppe!









Cannot wait.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kimir

Nop, no info whatsoever, just EK_tiborr calling it the Signalkuppe somewhere in the forum.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Nop, no info whatsoever, just EK_tiborr calling it the Signalkuppe somewhere in the forum.


Well, that is playing it pretty close to the vest . . . .

Would have expected a little teaser of some kind . . .

With the new Varders being PWM, and there being a shortage of available PWM controllers, I'd expect it to be Varder optimized.

They already have a software from Ascendacy to provide the interface, it had its problems, but was fixable.

D.


----------



## Kimir

That's why we (or should I say I) keep mentioning it, to show the interest in the thing, some preview is needed, badly!


----------



## Dagamus NM

I'm in for the signalkuppe. I'll take two please.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> That's why we (or should I say I) keep mentioning it, to show the interest in the thing, some preview is needed, badly!


Maybe you can get them to let any tester(s) start to talk about it . . .









Likely they are a bit gun-shy, after the open thread for the nearly Pre-Alpha testing on the Ascendacy . . . No doubt this is a lot further along.

D.


----------



## Dagamus NM

I vote for Darlene to be a tester for it. Hopefully she will be the go to person for this controller as well.

Your work (unpaid) for AC on the Aquaero series is as good as it gets. I mean how many ek D5's have been sold because your instructions could be followed for PWM on the AQ5/6 etc. seems only fair.


----------



## Ceadderman

I volunteer for testing. 9 Vardars and 2 pumps are begging me to get 3.









~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> I vote for Darlene to be a tester for it. Hopefully she will be the go to person for this controller as well.
> 
> Your work (unpaid) for AC on the Aquaero series is as good as it gets. I mean how many ek D5's have been sold because your instructions could be followed for PWM on the AQ5/6 etc. seems only fair.


An out of the box controller that worked with any brand of PWM D5 would be an instant hit, especially if you could just plug in a Koolance flow
meter to it for flowrate. . . .









But, . . . I have a vivid imagination . . . . I'm getting senile

D.


----------



## Kimir

Oh that's something they are missing in their lineup, a flow meter!
Heading to the EK sub forum on the suggestion for EK product right now!

found this while on it:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> The successor to Ascendacy (I'll soon do a write-up on it) knows how to properly handle D5 and DDC PWM, yes.


----------



## catbuster

Yes we need dat *PWM* controller, and sooner the better


----------



## bmgjet




----------



## Janac

One day from final pics guys...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/sponsored-scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood-making-of-my-first-case/140#post_24167055


----------



## VSG

Looks like the F4-120ER fans are up on the EK shop now


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like the F4-120ER fans are up on the EK shop now


Yes they are


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like the F4-120ER fans are up on the EK shop now


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Yes they are


EK releases new Extended Range series EK-Vardar fans


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Maybe you can get them to let any tester(s) start to talk about it . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Likely they are a bit gun-shy, after the open thread for the nearly Pre-Alpha testing on the Ascendacy . . . No doubt this is a lot further along.
> 
> D.


I certainly wouldn't mind having a bash with it when it comes out for testing for sure.......

As I have done a bit of guide thing for the Aquaero when it came out it would be interesting for me to just see how the new EK "ASCENDACY" stacks up againts it like, As the "Ascendacy" is going to be the nearest to an Aquaero type controller that covers pretty much all if you get my drift!!.... &...... It's about time there was something out there to test & challenge the Aquaero & I think the EK Ascendacy could well be the thing to do it...... Fingers crossed anyway & good on you EK







.....

Nam.....


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Maybe you can get them to let any tester(s) start to talk about it . . .


ORLY?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO

Love the Colour of the Red


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> Love the Colour of the Red


I'm using the red backplates for my Titan X's. I absolutely love the color. It makes them stand out.

EDIT* are the vardar fans only PWM? Do they make 3 pin? I'm having a hard time trying to find a PWM device without having to pay $200.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I'm using the red backplates for my Titan X's. I absolutely love the color. It makes them stand out.
> 
> EDIT* are the vardar fans only PWM? Do they make 3 pin? I'm having a hard time trying to find a PWM device without having to pay $200.


Aquaero 5 LT less than a hundred and can control the fans on one channel.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Aquaero 5 LT less than a hundred and can control the fans on one channel.


I was looking at that as well. Can it control 7 PWM fans (4 vardar 140's and 3 120's)?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I was looking at that as well. Can it control 7 PWM fans (4 vardar 140's and 3 120's)?


You will still need a powered splitter though - as, just one PWM channel on Aquaero 5.
So power load won't be an issue for the seven fans because splitter will take power from PSU
I have run 6 Vardar 120mm off Aquaero PWM channel no worries.
Maybe someone else has hooked up more than 6 and can advise if still getting the full PWM range.

140mm Vardars not released yet, so any info will be 120mm at this stage


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> You will still need a powered splitter though - as, just one PWM channel on Aquaero 5.
> So power load won't be an issue for the seven fans because splitter will take power from PSU
> I have run 6 Vardar 120mm off Aquaero PWM channel no worries.
> Maybe someone else has hooked up more than 6 and can advise if still getting the full PWM range.
> 
> 140mm Vardars not released yet, so any info will be 120mm at this stage


Would you suggest the aquero 5LT? I just want something in my price range to control 7 simple fans. Lol


----------



## fast_fate

Obviously the Aquaero 6 is the best option - _*until we see some more info on the yet to be officially announced EK controller*_ - hint hint








The Aquaero 6 offers way more future proofing than the 5LT as all channels being PWM capable and has higher amps capacity per channel for voltage controlling fans while also running cooler.
BUT I have seen you other posts about pricing restraints...
so,
Yes I would highly recommend the 5LT
I have 2 of them, plus an Aquaero 4, 1 x 5 Pro, 2 x 5XT and 1 x 6XT.
They really have been the go to controller for years


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Obviously the Aquaero 6 is the best option - _*until we see some more info on the yet to be officially announced EK controller*_ - hint hint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Aquaero 6 offers way more future proofing than the 5LT as all channels being PWM capable and has higher amps capacity per channel for voltage controlling fans while also running cooler.
> BUT I have seen you other posts about pricing restraints...
> so,
> Yes I would highly recommend the 5LT
> I have 2 of them, plus an Aquaero 4, 1 x 5 Pro, 2 x 5XT and 1 x 6XT.
> They really have been the go to controller for years


Yeah I saw that EK has that fan controller in the works. If not, I may pick up the aquaero 6 if I have the funds. I may even just run the Vardars via voltage if it's this much of a hassle. I still have a few months before my actual case arrives, so I can do some more research. Money is a huge issue because I'm taking a loaded semester this fall and its the last pre-reqs for the program I'm going to be applying to. I'm quiting work for a few semesters, so the Aquaero 6 may be a no go.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Would you suggest the aquero 5LT? I just want something in my price range to control 7 simple fans. Lol


For the price, it's hard to go past the 5lt *plus heatsink* which really should be standard. It'll run a pwm pump and 7 fans no sweat.
Edit: forgot you were talking about pwm vardar fans. Not so good fit that unless you can dedicate the pwm channel to the fans. If the new EK controller turns out to be any good while undercutting the Aq6 by enough i would not be surprised to see a 6lt be eventually released.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> For the price, it's hard to go past the 5lt *plus heatsink* which really should be standard. It'll run a pwm pump and 7 fans no sweat.
> Edit: forgot you were talking about pwm vardar fans. Not so good fit that unless you can dedicate the pwm channel to the fans. If the new EK controller turns out to be any good while undercutting the Aq6 by enough i would not be surprised to see a 6lt be eventually released.


Hey Jak








He seems happy enough to control the pumps from his only mobo PWM header...
and so I thought was wanting the best option to control only the PWM fans - which I think is still what he wants.
Good point about the heat-sink


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Hey Jak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He seems happy enough to control the pumps from his only mobo PWM header...
> and so I thought was wanting the best option to control only the PWM fans - which I think is still what he wants.
> Good point about the heat-sink


Yeah i wasn't following closely enough and just confused the situation. If the different sizes Vardars are the sameish speeds it should work well enough on the single channel. Happily that makes the heatsink not really needed even without a powered fan supplier as it shouldn't get warm running at 12v.

Also, i have some of the 120er here so i will see how they go with being split on a channel. Maybe see how they go being voltage reduced too but i saw that others say they produced noise which would concern me.


----------



## fast_fate

Sweet - lack of PWM controllers makes the Aquaero the sensible option - even if overkill for some situations.
Nice on the er's.
My PLE order with the Furious Vardars was back-ordered...
BUT just got confirmation that a courier will be delivering today


----------



## SteezyTN

Yeah, so I was going to control my D5 PWM pumps via my CPU header on my VI Hero. I went with the PWM versions because the res/pump combo is SO long, there won't be enough space for me to control the vario setting. I may just control the Vardars via voltage


----------



## Jakusonfire

Wow, i always forget what a difference fan splitting can make. With the Vardar F4 120ER I'm getting 200rpm at 35℅ pwm.

Gotta find my multimeter to see if it's voltage drop on the pwm that is causing it.

Volt controlling a large number of these isn't going to work well. At much under 7v they stop.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Wow, i always forget what a difference fan splitting can make. With the Vardar F4 120ER I'm getting 200rpm at 35℅ pwm.
> 
> Gotta find my multimeter to see if it's voltage drop on the pwm that is causing it.
> 
> Volt controlling a large number of these isn't going to work well. At much under 7v they stop.


What should you be getting?
I thought PWM did not drop voltage. Are you thinking the single channel from the PSU is not strong enough for 10 fans
Do you have all those fans off 1 molex?
Are you running them on a PWM controller?

dan


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Wow, i always forget what a difference fan splitting can make. With the Vardar F4 120ER I'm getting 200rpm at 35℅ pwm.
> 
> *Gotta find my multimeter to see if it's voltage drop on the pwm that is causing it.*
> 
> Volt controlling a large number of these isn't going to work well. At much under 7v they stop.


You won't find voltage drop on a PWM line with a multi-meter, all it will do is effectively average the pulse widths to a voltage level, IE for ~50% pulse width, it should read ~2.5V.

You'll need a scope to see what's actually going on with the PWM signaling.

You also have to keep in mind that PWM fans/pumps have internal electronic circuitry that requires a certain minimum voltage to remain functional . . .

Drop the supply voltage below that level and it stops.

That's why a lot of PWM devices do not run at the lower voltages, and hence speeds, that voltage controlled devices can often still run at, when that PWM device is being voltage controlled.

D.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> What should you be getting?
> I thought PWM did not drop voltage. Are you thinking the single channel from the PSU is not strong enough for 10 fans
> Do you have all those fans off 1 molex?
> Are you running them on a PWM controller?
> 
> dan


With a single fan it's more like 300rpm which isn't as big a difference as i thought. Whenever you have lots of wiring and connectors in particular there will be voltage drop. I suspect the 5v of the pwm line is dropping just under and that affects the pwm response of the fans. Its significantly different to VSGs testing.
Its not the power for the fans i mean but they are all running from a sata connector.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You won't find voltage drop on a PWM line with a multi-meter, all it will do is effectively average the pulse widths to a voltage level, IE for ~50% pulse width, it should read ~2.5V.
> 
> You'll need a scope to see what's actually going on with the PWM signaling.
> 
> You also have to keep in mind that PWM fans/pumps have internal electronic circuitry that requires a certain minimum voltage to remain functional . . .
> 
> Drop the supply voltage below that level and it stops.
> 
> That's why a lot of PWM devices do not run at the lower voltages, and hence speeds, that voltage controlled devices can often still run at, when that PWM device is being voltage controlled.
> 
> D.


Thanks Diva that's good to know. I should have thought of that.
Speaking of scopes was your usb one expensive?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Wow, i always forget what a difference fan splitting can make. With the Vardar F4 120ER I'm getting 200rpm at 35℅ pwm.
> 
> Gotta find my multimeter to see if it's voltage drop on the pwm that is causing it.
> 
> Volt controlling a large number of these isn't going to work well. At much under 7v they stop.


What rad Jak ??
I got an AX and ST30 in 120mm I could use.
Might as well start to gather some data if you're keen - I'll have some time over the weekend hopefully








Would be nice if we had the same rad as each other, so data is more apples to apples.

What @Kokin did in the GT Club looks like won't take too much time.
Just add more data for RPM speeds when more fans are added the the PWM channel.
At some point we might find the where Aquaero starts to drop off with the RPM on the Vardar models, which will be handy to find out.
I got F3's F4's and FF5's now.

*EDIT:* Also I have a basic anemometer - not too flash, but OK for this kinda stuff


----------



## Jakusonfire

Oh that is an EK SE 120 actually. I had a look and i can sure run through that if you like.

The results are quite different depending on which splitter pcb i use. The powered modmytoys one actually over volts slightly as opposed to the non powered one that of course drops.

I had been thinking of doing some airflow testing with manometer a while ago but when unicron said he was gonna do his i just stopped looking into it. Maybe if i can get more free time soon I'll look into it again.

As a side note I'm impressed by this SE. The finish seems improved over the PE's that i have and over all just seems nicer than other slims i have had.


----------



## VSG

Are you seeing 300 RPM at 35% PWM with a single fan? That's very low. What was the max RPM?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> What should you be getting?
> I thought PWM did not drop voltage. Are you thinking the single channel from the PSU is not strong enough for 10 fans
> Do you have all those fans off 1 molex?
> Are you running them on a PWM controller?
> 
> dan
> 
> 
> 
> With a single fan it's more like 300rpm which isn't as big a difference as i thought. Whenever you have lots of wiring and connectors in particular there will be voltage drop. *I suspect the 5v of the pwm line is dropping just under and that affects the pwm response of the fans*. Its significantly different to VSGs testing.
> Its not the power for the fans i mean but they are all running from a sata connector.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You won't find voltage drop on a PWM line with a multi-meter, all it will do is effectively average the pulse widths to a voltage level, IE for ~50% pulse width, it should read ~2.5V.
> 
> You'll need a scope to see what's actually going on with the PWM signaling.
> 
> You also have to keep in mind that PWM fans/pumps have internal electronic circuitry that requires a certain minimum voltage to remain functional . . .
> 
> Drop the supply voltage below that level and it stops.
> 
> That's why a lot of PWM devices do not run at the lower voltages, and hence speeds, that voltage controlled devices can often still run at, when that PWM device is being voltage controlled.
> 
> D.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks Diva that's good to know. I should have thought of that.
> Speaking of scopes was your usb one expensive?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Wow, i always forget what a difference fan splitting can make. With the Vardar F4 120ER I'm getting 200rpm at 35℅ pwm.
> 
> Gotta find my multimeter to see if it's voltage drop on the pwm that is causing it.
> 
> Volt controlling a large number of these isn't going to work well. At much under 7v they stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What rad Jak ??
> I got an AX and ST30 in 120mm I could use.
> Might as well start to gather some data if you're keen - I'll have some time over the weekend hopefully
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would be nice if we had the same rad as each other, so data is more apples to apples.
> 
> What @Kokin did in the GT Club looks like won't take too much time.
> Just add more data for RPM speeds when more fans are added the the PWM channel.
> *At some point we might find the where Aquaero starts to drop off with the RPM on the Vardar models, which will be handy to find out*.
> I got F3's F4's and FF5's now.
> 
> *EDIT:* Also I have a basic anemometer - not too flash, but OK for this kinda stuff
Click to expand...

I've written up some posts on how PWM works, specifically as it applies to pumps and fans in the world of PCs, but it seems the information isn't retained well when folks are not well enough grounded in their electronics knowledge.

The really common misconception, that leads to so many erroneous conclusions, is that the controller "sends" out a signal to the devices, (fans & pumps) that are to be controlled. . . . . and that as you add more fans/pumps, that that signal has to be distributed amongst them, and that each one then gets a "weaker" signal.

*That's exactly backwards . . .*

The way it actually works, is that Each device, (pump, fan, etc.) has an internal connection within its control circuitry, that supplies 5V derived from the main supply voltage, thru a resistor, to the pulse controlling mosfet. . . . This connection point is where the PWM line is also connected.

This continuous 5V to the mosfet tells the mosfet to connect the full supply voltage to the motor continuously, and so the device runs at full speed when the PWM line is left unconnected.

To effect speed control of the device, we need to be able to keep it from continuously receiving the 5V supply on the control mosfet.

To do that, we intermittently connect the PWM line to ground to keep the mosfet from allowing 12V to the motor.

Everyone has read and remembers that the Intel PWM standard specifies a frequency of 25KHz . . . . .

But it's more easily visualized if we look at that in terms of period, not frequency.

25KHz is 40 microseconds of time.

If the controller connects the PWM line to ground for 10mms out of every 40mms, then that means that the control mosfet allows 12V to the motor for 30 mms, and allows no voltage for the following 10 mms.

That would be a 75% duty cycle.

Now the problem that arises with multiple devices being controlled on a single PWM line, is that since all of them source current on the PWM line, which the controller has to intermittantly connect to ground, it's the controller that becomes "overwhelmed", (to use a simple term to describe a more complex electrical situation) and isn't able to effect the ground connection as effectively as with fewer devices.

The result is the loss of low speed control, where you are unable to run the devices as slowly with increasing numbers, as you could with just a very few.

If you have a situation where the devices are being able to run slower as you add more, then it is not a PWM issue, it's a supply voltage related issue.

Darlene


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I've written up some posts on how PWM works, specifically as it applies to pumps and fans in the world of PCs, but it seems the information isn't retained well when folks are not well enough grounded in their electronics knowledge.
> 
> The really common misconception, that leads to so many erroneous conclusions, is that the controller "sends" out a signal to the devices, (fans & pumps) that are to be controlled. . . . . and that as you add more fans/pumps, that that signal has to be distributed amongst them, and that each one then gets a "weaker" signal.
> 
> *That's exactly backwards . . .*
> 
> The way it actually works, is that Each device, (pump, fan, etc.) has an internal connection within its control circuitry, that supplies 5V derived from the main supply voltage, thru a resistor, to the pulse controlling mosfet. . . . This connection point is where the PWM line is also connected.
> 
> This continuous 5V to the mosfet tells the mosfet to connect the full supply voltage to the motor continuously, and so the device runs at full speed when the PWM line is left unconnected.
> 
> To effect speed control of the device, we need to be able to keep it from continuously receiving the 5V supply on the control mosfet.
> 
> To do that, we intermittently connect the PWM line to ground to keep the mosfet from allowing 12V to the motor.
> 
> Everyone has read and remembers that the Intel PWM standard specifies a frequency of 25KHz . . . . .
> 
> But it's more easily visualized if we look at that in terms of period, not frequency.
> 
> 25KHz is 40 microseconds of time.
> 
> If the controller connects the PWM line to ground for 10mms out of every 40mms, then that means that the control mosfet allows 12V to the motor for 30 mms, and allows no voltage for the following 10 mms.
> 
> That would be a 75% duty cycle.
> 
> Now the problem that arises with multiple devices being controlled on a single PWM line, is that since all of them source current on the PWM line, which the controller has to intermittantly connect to ground, it's the controller that becomes "overwhelmed", (to use a simple term to describe a more complex electrical situation) and isn't able to effect the ground connection as effectively as with fewer devices.
> 
> The result is the loss of low speed control, where you are unable to run the devices as slowly with increasing numbers, as you could with just a very few.
> 
> If you have a situation where the devices are being able to run slower as you add more, then it is not a PWM issue, it's a supply voltage related issue.
> 
> Darlene


+1 Cheers for sharing your knowledge Darlene.
It's Always Appreciated


----------



## VSG

Another +1, I am not sure I get everything but glad to know about more all the time


----------



## sinnedone

@IT Diva

Thank you for that pwm info. Very interesting to have it explained so simply.


----------



## IT Diva

Thanks guys,

With the talk of the upcoming EK controller, and reasonable speculation that it will be primarily, if not exclusively PWM so it becomes a mate to the Varders, I thought that some basics of how PWM works would be helpful to further discussion.

We all got to see first hand how much issue with low speed control there could be as you increased the number of fans on the A6 when it was released, especially the fans that were not to Intel specs. . . and issues with a PWM pump that wasn't to Intel specs.

While I'm thinking about it, to anyone that has an AC PWM D5, does it run at max when you don't have the PWM line connected, the way the 35X, and all PWM fans do?

If you're interested in what happens to the PWM signal with a lot of devices that causes the loss of low speed control, I can probably post some pics of the scope traces once I get home from work and on my regular PC.

Darlene


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks guys,
> 
> With the talk of the upcoming EK controller, and reasonable speculation that it will be primarily, if not exclusively PWM so it becomes a mate to the Varders, I thought that some basics of how PWM works would be helpful to further discussion.
> 
> We all got to see first hand how much issue with low speed control there could be as you increased the number of fans on the A6 when it was released, especially the fans that were not to Intel specs. . . and issues with a PWM pump that wasn't to Intel specs.
> 
> While I'm thinking about it, to anyone that has an AC PWM D5, does it run at max when you don't have the PWM line connected, the way the 35X, and all PWM fans do?
> 
> If you're interested in what happens to the PWM signal with a lot of devices that causes the loss of low speed control, I can probably post some pics of the scope traces once I get home from work and on my regular PC.
> 
> Darlene


I have the AC PWM D5 and lost my RPM and PWM control after plugging it into my 6XT. It is now plugged into my X99 CPU fan header and even though I can't read the RPM it does seem to start lower as the system boots, but does sound like it's running at full RPM after initial boot sequence. Sorry I can't be of more help, but it does seem to run at full RPM without PWM connection.


----------



## Kimir

If it's the older version, it probably run at 60%. I wouldn't keep a pump if I couldn't read at what speed it's running at, imo.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> If it's the older version, it probably run at 60%. I wouldn't keep a pump if I couldn't read at what speed it's running at, imo.


The reason I asked about the AC PWM version of the D5, is that the whole reason the regular PWM D5s don't work on the Aquaero in the first place, is that it was a design choice they made so that it would run a 60% and not at 100% when there was no PWM connection.

I'm really curious as to whether that aspect of the original PWM D5 has been lost in making it compatible with the A6.

D.


----------



## SteezyTN

So I ordered an XSPC D5 PWM pump two weeks ago (I know it's not EK, but my main question was about the EK Vardars and PWM, but since we're talking about pumps, why not lol). I'll be powering it via molex from the PSU, but I'll be plugging the PWM connector to my Maximis Vi Hero CPU header which is a true PWM header. Are you saying that I'll have issues regarding rpm?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I ordered an XSPC D5 PWM pump two weeks ago (I know it's not EK, but my main question was about the EK Vardars and PWM, but since we're talking about pumps, why not lol). I'll be powering it via molex from the PSU, but I'll be plugging the PWM connector to my Maximis Vi Hero CPU header which is a true PWM header. Are you saying that I'll have issues regarding rpm?


No.

There should be no issues reading the RPM.

The most common problems with not reading rpm, or not having PWM control, revolve around either not having everything plugged in like while filling/leak testing, or using a separate PSU for the pump(s) usually related to filling, and in either case, there's usually a missing ground or common negative connection as the culprit.

D.


----------



## Ceadderman

+1 from me too D. Spot on as usual.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> No.
> 
> There should be no issues reading the RPM.
> 
> The most common problems with not reading rpm, or not having PWM control, revolve around either not having everything plugged in like while filling/leak testing, or using a separate PSU for the pump(s) usually related to filling, and in either case, there's usually a missing ground or common negative connection as the culprit.
> 
> D.


Thanks Diva. That helps me a lot. Makes me fell less worried now lol. For the past 2 days, the PWM "horrors" have been all around the WC threads.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> No.
> 
> There should be no issues reading the RPM.
> 
> The most common problems with not reading rpm, or not having PWM control, revolve around either not having everything plugged in like while filling/leak testing, or using a separate PSU for the pump(s) usually related to filling, and in either case, there's usually a missing ground or common negative connection as the culprit.
> 
> D.


The weird thing on mine is it was working fine on Asus X99 Deluxe through fan expert I could adjust the RPM and flow rate on two AC D5 PWM, but........ as soon as I tried them on my Aquaero 6 Pro they both stopped reporting the RPM on any of the four fan channels. I then plugged them back into the CPU MB header and they no longer reported speed there anymore either. So I'll be pulling both pumps from this build soon and replacing them with the good old red dial D5's.


----------



## Reaper28

I finally got my 360 mounted with a new R4. I love the amount of air they move not even close to the SP 120's even at the same speeds. Can't wait to see what kind of temps I get. Good work EK







fans were worth the money.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I ordered an XSPC D5 PWM pump two weeks ago (I know it's not EK, but my main question was about the EK Vardars and PWM, but since we're talking about pumps, why not lol). I'll be powering it via molex from the PSU, but I'll be plugging the PWM connector to my Maximis Vi Hero CPU header which is a true PWM header. Are you saying that I'll have issues regarding rpm?


No.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> No.
> 
> There should be no issues reading the RPM.
> 
> The most common problems with not reading rpm, or not having PWM control, revolve around either not having everything plugged in like while filling/leak testing, or using a separate PSU for the pump(s) usually related to filling, and in either case, there's usually a missing ground or common negative connection as the culprit.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> The weird thing on mine is it was working fine on Asus X99 Deluxe through fan expert I could adjust the RPM and flow rate on two AC D5 PWM, but........ as soon as I tried them on my Aquaero 6 Pro they both stopped reporting the RPM on any of the four fan channels. I then plugged them back into the CPU MB header and they no longer reported speed there anymore either. So I'll be pulling both pumps from this build soon and replacing them with the good old red dial D5's.
Click to expand...

When you connected them to the A6, you did connect them to fan channels and not the aquabus, correct?

And you did have the fan channels configured to PWM control, not power or speed control, correct?

If you misconnected them, you may have damaged them, I'd return them to AC for checkout or repair.

Almost all the Aquaero issues turn out to be somehow user error / Aquasuite configuration related.

D.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> No.
> When you connected them to the A6, you did connect them to fan channels and not the aquabus, correct?
> 
> And you did have the fan channels configured to PWM control, not power or speed control, correct?
> 
> If you misconnected them, you may have damaged them, I'd return them to AC for checkout or repair.
> 
> Almost all the Aquaero issues turn out to be somehow user error / Aquasuite configuration related.
> 
> D.


I did connect to the fan channels I tried all 4 of them and went into advanced options and changed to PWM controlled too.

I can assure you that when I'm involved it is definately user error though!









I do feel that at times Aquacomputer gear does tend to be a bit temperamental though. Either way I'm going back to the regular red dial D5's from now on, i'll just dial in a good speed and forget it. On my S5 with the DDC PWM I had very little trouble at all, so I'll stick to DDC if I want PWM from now on.


----------



## Anateus

How long did it take to release fullblocks for 1155 motherboards? Like the one for ASUS Maximus VII Impact.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Things are coming along nicely for me!


----------



## natsu2014

New build, old hardware with EK blocks in it


----------



## derickwm

Alaskan Arctic underway... @wermad









































































More in Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1565405/project-alaskan-arctic-intel-5775c-2x-fury-x-in-win-909-liquid-cooling


----------



## JourneymanMike

Build log? Looks like it's already done...


----------



## Ceadderman

Odds that derrickwm gets into CPUMag(*AGAIN*) before I do are quite good.









Is okay. I plan to catch up.









~Ceadder


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Alaskan Arctic underway... @wermad
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More in Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1565405/project-alaskan-arctic-intel-5775c-2x-fury-x-in-win-909-liquid-cooling


Nice


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Build log? Looks like it's already done...


Yeah I'm not very good at build logs these days...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Odds that derrickwm gets into CPUMag(*AGAIN*) before I do are quite good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is okay. I plan to catch up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was in CPU Mag?


----------



## Ceadderman

I was pretty sure you were. But I guess I was cornfoozed. If you take that build to a LAN event you will be.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I was pretty sure you were. But I guess I was cornfoozed. If you take that build to a LAN event you will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It'll be at Quakecon


----------



## Ceadderman

You will likely get coverage then. They're going to be there giving away a system.









~Ceadder


----------



## elbeasto

I'm wanting to use an EK D5 XRes 100 combo for a CPU only loop and just wondering what is the easiest/best way to mount it in a Corsair 750D.
I want to keep the HDD cage in the bottom right if possible as I already have 2 storage drives in there.

So far it's the only thing stopping me from going ahead with this loop.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> I'm wanting to use an EK D5 XRes 100 combo for a CPU only loop and just wondering what is the easiest/best way to mount it in a Corsair 750D.
> I want to keep the HDD cage in the bottom right if possible as I already have 2 storage drives in there.
> 
> So far it's the only thing stopping me from going ahead with this loop.


I've done similar with my setup. Here are two ways that I did it

Old setup which used metal L brackets I got at Ace Hardware


Current


----------



## elbeasto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> I've done similar with my setup. Here are two ways that I did it
> 
> Old setup which used metal L brackets I got at Ace Hardware
> 
> 
> Current


Thanks for the ideas.

Unfortunately this case doesn't have any panel where the SSD holders are.
I'm only having the one rad in the roof so I've got the front of the case as well.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> Thanks for the ideas.
> 
> Unfortunately this case doesn't have any panel where the SSD holders are.
> I'm only having the one rad in the roof so I've got the front of the case as well.


Yeah I understand that. I have the same case. In both those pictures, I have the d5 combo attached to the top of the hard drive bay/ psu cover


----------



## tbone8ty

so im having some issues with my new setup...

I have a swiftech h-220x and

i added the ek supremacy evo water block and 140mm rad with swiftech fluid...

the temps are worse than before than with just the h-220x!!!

when testing prime 95 (small fft)... i was getting 65C after 15 min stable... now it goes over 75C with in a matter of seconds!!!)

i spent awhile tipping and moving the case around to try and get air bubbles out....but i can still see a little bit in there.

im new at this and looks like i would benefit from a reservoir? not sure about this or the theory. does adding a reservoir help eliminate air bubbles? should i have one in my system?

my tubing is clear, but it looks to be really full.

can a small amount of air bubbles cause such drastic temp change that I'm experiencing?

thanks in advance.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> so im having some issues with my new setup...
> 
> I have a swiftech h-220x and
> 
> i added the ek supremacy evo water block and 140mm rad with swiftech fluid...
> 
> the temps are worse than before than with just the h-220x!!!
> 
> when testing prime 95 (small fft)... i was getting 65C after 15 min stable... now it goes over 75C with in a matter of seconds!!!)
> 
> i spent awhile tipping and moving the case around to try and get air bubbles out....but i can still see a little bit in there.
> 
> im new at this and looks like i would benefit from a reservoir? not sure about this or the theory. does adding a reservoir help eliminate air bubbles? should i have one in my system?
> 
> my tubing is clear, but it looks to be really full.
> 
> can a small amount of air bubbles cause such drastic temp change that I'm experiencing?
> 
> thanks in advance.


I thinku should reseat the Supremacy evo block. I have seen higher temps while bubbles are stuck in my block but not 10c more.


----------



## tbone8ty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I thinku should reseat the Supremacy evo block. I have seen higher temps while bubbles are stuck in my block but not 10c more.


I used the supplied gelid extreme paste from EK. its on pretty tight. i will double check, and reseat. i might go back to artic cooling MX-4 paste which i was using before.

im also using the I2/J2 insert and jet plate for my AMD FX-8350...is this ideal or should i try a different combo?

looks pretty cool anyways









http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150717_211550_zpsytu5sjui.jpg.html

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150717_173100_zps3qptdo0k.jpg.html

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150717_211609_zpszhqd6tto.jpg.html

would a reservoir help? i think the extra rad is causing more air bubbles because the ports are on the bottom.

thanks!


----------



## tiborrr12

Is the block assembled correctly? Cooling fins perpendicular to the jet?


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> I used the supplied gelid extreme paste from EK. its on pretty tight. i will double check, and reseat. i might go back to artic cooling MX-4 paste which i was using before.
> 
> im also using the I2/J2 insert and jet plate for my AMD FX-8350...is this ideal or should i try a different combo?
> 
> looks pretty cool anyways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150717_211550_zpsytu5sjui.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150717_173100_zps3qptdo0k.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150717_211609_zpszhqd6tto.jpg.html
> 
> would a reservoir help? i think the extra rad is causing more air bubbles because the ports are on the bottom.
> 
> thanks!


Is the flow in the correct direction into the block


----------



## Janac

I have just finished this project and I would love to hear your thoughts about it.



Build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/sponsored-scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood-making-of-my-first-case/140#post_24172638


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> I used the supplied gelid extreme paste from EK. its on pretty tight. i will double check, and reseat. i might go back to artic cooling MX-4 paste which i was using before.
> 
> *im also using the I2/J2 insert and jet plate for my AMD FX-8350..*.is this ideal or should i try a different combo?
> 
> looks pretty cool anyways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150717_211550_zpsytu5sjui.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150717_173100_zps3qptdo0k.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150717_211609_zpszhqd6tto.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> *would a reservoir help?* i think the extra rad is causing more air bubbles because *the ports are on the bottom.
> *
> thanks!


The I2-J2 is the optimal jet plate for AMD FX Processors...

As mentioned before, is it put together correctly?

The H220X has it's own Res. It doesn't look like you can vent from that....

Can you flip the extra rad over to get the ports on the top?

So yes, another res would help for venting.

I would surrender the H220X and go custom loop, that's what I'd did...


----------



## BugBash

Time to fully sign up I guess!











I will start wearing the patch after installation tomorrow


----------



## VSG

Triple 180mm rad


----------



## tbone8ty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Is the block assembled correctly? Cooling fins perpendicular to the jet?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Is the flow in the correct direction into the block


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> The I2-J2 is the optimal jet plate for AMD FX Processors...
> 
> As mentioned before, is it put together correctly?
> 
> The H220X has it's own Res. It doesn't look like you can vent from that....
> 
> Can you flip the extra rad over to get the ports on the top?
> 
> So yes, another res would help for venting.
> 
> I would surrender the H220X and go custom loop, that's what I'd did...


i was determined to get the bubbles out of the system today and took the loop out to cycle it and add fluid and move it all around.....after doing this i noticed that the fluid really wasnt flowing that fast especially with the swiftech pump on full bore.

closer inspection I discovered a huge fail on my part.
















when installing the AMD specific bracket on my EK Supremacy Evo water block *i had mistakenly oriented the copper fins on the plate 90 deg. the wrong way*. hahaha whoops!
















i couldn't believe it.... i thought i had assembled it correctly after seeing the picture in the instructions. DOH!

i balanced the water block upside down and took the 4 bolts off and turned it the correct way, managed not to lose to much fluid.

now the fluid flows real good and temps are incredible! wow!

I'm happy after all the patience and hard work.
















thanks for sticking with me


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> i was determined to get the bubbles out of the system today and took the loop out to cycle it and add fluid and move it all around.....after doing this i noticed that the fluid really wasnt flowing that fast especially with the swiftech pump on full bore.
> 
> closer inspection I discovered a huge fail on my part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when installing the AMD specific bracket on my EK Supremacy Evo water block *i had mistakenly oriented the copper fins on the plate 90 deg. the wrong way*. hahaha whoops!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i couldn't believe it.... i thought i had assembled it correctly after seeing the picture in the instructions. DOH!
> 
> i balanced the water block upside down and took the 4 bolts off and turned it the correct way, managed not to lose to much fluid.
> 
> now the fluid flows real good and temps are incredible! wow!
> 
> I'm happy after all the patience and hard work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for sticking with me


'Atta boy! You followed suggestions and figured it out...

+REP Your first REP!


----------



## tbone8ty

thanks!!!!

here are the new temps with my new setup. prime 95 small FFT for about 10 min to get a baseline. (*48C*)

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/temps are incredible_zpsmbijawby.jpg.html

here are the old temps with just the swiftech h-220x (*68C*)

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/retest 1 small_fft_zpsuz4kxumc.jpg.html

^^^ temps were even worse than that (*75C+ and rising*) with my new setup with the EK water block setup _"drunken style"_ aka fins the wrong way. so yeah don't do that!

*so that's a drop of about 20C...read that again...20C...F'k me running!
*
hahaha my FX has new life









now i will try and get 5ghz! on to testing!


----------



## Cosworth

I withdraw from the club today as I have pulled out my old watercooling setup and replaced my cooling setup with a H100I GTX


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cosworth*
> 
> I withdraw from the club today as I have pulled out my old watercooling setup and replaced my cooling setup with a H100I GTX


Cool story bro,


----------



## Cosworth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Cool story bro,


Thanks it came down to space and it my old cooling setup had to go


----------



## Jumie

hey guys.. will one EK xtx 360mm be enough for 1 cpu + 1 gpu both overclocked?


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jumie*
> 
> hey guys.. will one EK xtx 360mm be enough for 1 cpu + 1 gpu both overclocked?


Yes it will...

The basic "rule", if you want to call it that, is 1 Rad fan space per component you're cooling, plus 1 fan space extra...

I have 3 EK-XTX Rads, they work very well!


----------



## kapnobatai

Hi guys, I post this also on the main Water Cooling subforum but thought you might help me out

Although I read a little about different water-cooling setups, I d like to hear some feedback or recommendations about my planned mainly EK WC solution.

Please take a look on my sketch, many thanks



MSI X99S Sli Plus + i7-5820k + MSI GTX970 4g + C70 Corsair

Alpenfohn & be!quiet fans, looking for a compromise between silence and cooling performance (I will maybe OC the CPU at 4.2, 4.3GHZ and maybe later on also slightly the GPU)

So far, I d choose EK (except the 280mm Rad, which so far I like the Black Ice SR-1 280 from Hardware Labs).

Any feedback and suggestion would be golden, many thanks!


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kapnobatai*
> 
> Hi guys, I post this also on the main Water Cooling subforum but thought you might help me out
> 
> Although I read a little about different water-cooling setups, I d like to hear some feedback or recommendations about my planned mainly EK WC solution.
> 
> Please take a look on my sketch, many thanks
> 
> 
> 
> MSI X99S Sli Plus + i7-5820k + MSI GTX970 4g + C70 Corsair
> 
> Alpenfohn & be!quiet fans, looking for a compromise between silence and cooling performance (I will maybe OC the CPU at 4.2, 4.3GHZ and maybe later on also slightly the GPU)
> 
> So far, I d choose EK (except the 280mm Rad, which so far I like the Black Ice SR-1 280 from Hardware Labs).
> 
> Any feedback and suggestion would be golden, many thanks!


Those rads are extra thick btw, so make sure it fits. I have the Black Ice Nemesis and they're like 133m wide vs 125/126mm from competitors.

I'm pretty sure people will say ditch the shroud. IIRC there was some data on them that showed they weren't as effective as people thought (from Martin I believe).

Can you not fit a rad in the front or 360 in the top (just to get rid of the back 120)?


----------



## kapnobatai

Sadly no 360 place on top (I d wish), but a 280 will fit perfectly, even a thicker one, ain t got no problem with that.

Of course, I can replace the case, I didn t bought it with WC in mind, but atm I m trying to get the best out of it, even if it means I ll have the rads outside.

From my point of view, I would gladly use only 140mm fans everywhere, but sadly I can use them only on top or outside the case (or maybe the bottom intake fan could be a 140mm, but only if I use a PSU extension to get it 5cm outside the case)

As well for rads on front, I m trying to put rads only on exhausts. Another possibility would be to get a 360mm rad with 3 fans totally outside the case, I have no problem with that (as aesthetics fall last in my setup, silence and cooling performance are first).

I wrote also to EK for recommendations, but I think you guys will do better.

This is mainly for video editing, long rendering times with maybe an OCed CPU, I recon I ll OC the gpu only after many months, I play only arma3epoch and occasionally new releases (couple of days intensive gaming to the end), so OCing gpu for gaming is not on my priority list, only getting rid of the high rpm fans of the graphic card (on a poorly made but gorgeous image 1440p 96hz korean ips display)


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kapnobatai*
> 
> Hi guys, I post this also on the main Water Cooling subforum but thought you might help me out
> 
> Although I read a little about different water-cooling setups, I d like to hear some feedback or recommendations about my planned mainly EK WC solution.
> 
> Please take a look on my sketch, many thanks
> 
> 
> 
> MSI X99S Sli Plus + i7-5820k + MSI GTX970 4g + C70 Corsair
> 
> Alpenfohn & be!quiet fans, looking for a compromise between silence and cooling performance (I will maybe OC the CPU at 4.2, 4.3GHZ and maybe later on also slightly the GPU)
> 
> So far, I d choose EK (except the 280mm Rad, which so far I like the Black Ice SR-1 280 from Hardware Labs).
> 
> Any feedback and suggestion would be golden, many thanks!


As I look at this -

Get rid of the rad in the rear and replace it with just an exhaust fan -

Then, on the top 240, reverse the fans to intake, why drive hot air through the rads? That won't help cool the vital components of your build...

You can also scrap bottom Rad and fan...

You are only cooling two components. General rule is: One rad fan space per component that you're cooling, plus one extra.

You'd have more than enough cooling with the dual as intake and the triple as intake. That would give you three extra rad fan places

I'm cooling 2 x GPU's, the CPU and a full MB block, I have a triple. and a dual

This is only what I would do.

My


----------



## ricercar

Just installed two <<EK-FC970 GTX TF5 Nickel Acetal>> on my MSI SLI GTX 980s.

Here's the testing before installation. Bought the parallel 4-way SLI connector block in case I decide to go insane.


----------



## tbone8ty

this is how not to setup the EK Supremacy Evo waterblock

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150718_181207_zps6gy13zfs.jpg.html

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150718_181238_zpscjypmebf.jpg.html

you can see the copper fins are 90 deg the wrong way. whoops!

before 76C







after 50C


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> this is how not to setup the EK Supremacy Evo waterblock
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150718_181207_zps6gy13zfs.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150718_181238_zpscjypmebf.jpg.html
> 
> you can see the copper fins are 90 deg the wrong way. whoops!
> 
> before 76C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after 50C


Had exact same problem a few weeks ago after I redid my loop. Was hitting 83C when stressing the CPU. Went down to 60C after I fixed it


----------



## Georgey123

^ Exactly what EK's instructions are there for














.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> 'Atta boy! You followed suggestions and figured it out...
> 
> +REP Your first REP!


That's misuse of the rep system! ENTERPRISE has a thread on how to properly use it (only for people who provide help)

I see on Derrick's pictures of the white Vardars that the cable is white. Will that be the case with the final production units? My FF5s (black) came with colored wire insulation, which you can see on the fan body and after removing the sleeve


----------



## Kimir

Yes, the white fan have white sleeve and black one have black sleeve on the ER.
I should have my white ER tomorrow.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yes, the white fan have white sleeve and black one have black sleeve on the ER.
> I should have my white ER tomorrow.


Not the sleeve, the insulation on the wires themselves. My 120mm Vardars have red, yellow, green, black for example (which is admittedly nice when resleeving but not 100% aesthetically pleasing). Derrick's pic has them all white

And congratulations, lucky!


----------



## SteezyTN

I was going to order the black ER's, but I'm not paying $23 in shipping to California. I know it's international, but when I order the rest of my pumps and fittings and such, it'll be like $15 total to ship from PPCS lol.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Not the sleeve, the insulation on the wires themselves. My 120mm Vardars have red, yellow, green, black for example (which is admittedly nice when resleeving but not 100% aesthetically pleasing). Derrick's pic has them all white
> 
> And congratulations, lucky!


Oh the cables themselves, well I'll let you know. From EK site they seems all white too.


----------



## tbone8ty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> That's misuse of the rep system! ENTERPRISE has a thread on how to properly use it (only for people who provide help)


waaah you gonna take my rep away


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> waaah you gonna take my rep away


I don't think so...

I know I made a serious mistake







, but I'm only a human being and am not perfect...

I will leave it to the Gods to be perfect!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> That's misuse of the rep system! ENTERPRISE has a thread on how to properly use it (only for people who provide help)
> 
> I see on Derrick's pictures of the white Vardars that the cable is white. Will that be the case with the final production units? My FF5s (black) came with colored wire insulation, which you can see on the fan body and after removing the sleeve


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> I don't think so...
> 
> I know I made a serious mistake
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I'm only a human being and am not perfect...
> 
> I will leave it to the Gods to be perfect!


OMG Mike that will be 50 lashes with a wet noodle!!! Bad you!!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> That's misuse of the rep system! ENTERPRISE has a thread on how to properly use it (only for people who provide help)
> 
> I see on Derrick's pictures of the white Vardars that the cable is white. Will that be the case with the final production units? My FF5s (black) came with colored wire insulation, which you can see on the fan body and after removing the sleeve
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> I don't think so...
> 
> I know I made a serious mistake
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I'm only a human being and am not perfect...
> 
> I will leave it to the Gods to be perfect!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> OMG Mike that will be 50 lashes with a wet noodle!!! Bad you!!
Click to expand...

Can I administer these... Lashes?


----------



## seross69

OMG ROTFLMAO


----------



## kapnobatai

I just saw on a ekwb page that they are recommending Tygon Norprene R6012 tubing (also saw it used on ones of Kimir s builds). Is it a safe choice?

Also can you recommend please the fitting size for such a build (if the chosen tubing is Tygon Norprene R6012) : 

Many thanks


----------



## Jakusonfire

.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kapnobatai*
> 
> I just saw on a ekwb page that they are recommending Tygon Norprene R6012 tubing (also saw it used on ones of Kimir s builds). Is it a safe choice?
> 
> Also can you recommend please the fitting size for such a build (if the chosen tubing is Tygon Norprene R6012) :
> 
> Many thanks


It's the safest choice outside of hard tube. The ek tube only comes in 3/8 x 5/8


----------



## derickwm

We have more sizes coming Soon™

That being said, my personal opinion is that 10/16mm or 3/8-5/8" is a nice medium anyway.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I agree, it is my fave size.

I used to prefer 7/16 x 5/8 but the slightly smaller size has far more common support and stocking in my country, and i have never liked the bulky over size 1/2 x 3/4


----------



## kapnobatai

Thanks guys, 3/8-5/8" Tygon Norprene R6012 tubing will be. Any thoughts on my possible setup in the picture? Can you please maybe recommend a particular pump+res combo from ekwb for that, also a safe choice? the combo should run on this setup, if I ll add other cooling units (MB for example or additional VGA) I ll add another pump and maybe even an additional small radiator.

For radiators I think I ll go with black ice sr1 (280 top+240 front, sorry if off-topic) as they are low fpi, I just checked and I have only Alpenfohn wing boost 2 plus everywhere (140, 120, 120 pure) and I want to keep them at low rpm.

Thanks for the replies


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kapnobatai*
> 
> Thanks guys, 3/8-5/8" Tygon Norprene R6012 tubing will be. Any thoughts on my possible setup in the picture? Can you please maybe recommend a particular pump+res combo from ekwb for that, also a safe choice? the combo should run on this setup, if I ll add other cooling units (MB for example or additional VGA) I ll add another pump and maybe even an additional small radiator.
> 
> For radiators I think I ll go with black ice sr1 (280 top+240 front, sorry if off-topic) as they are low fpi, I just checked and I have only Alpenfohn wing boost 2 plus everywhere (140, 120, 120 pure) and I want to keep them at low rpm.
> 
> Thanks for the replies


A D5 pump/res combo will be fine in your setup and will also be able to handle about any upgrades in the future.

This one would be fine : EK-XRES 140 D5 Vario (incl. pump)

And you could attach it on your front rad with this : EK-UNI Pump Holder (120mm FAN)


----------



## MadHatter5045

All ZMT in the bottom of my case, excellent stuff!


----------



## NIK1

I am going to build a new system in the next few weeks with a I7 4790k cpu and wonder what EK water block is the best one to cool this. I like the looks of the gold one, also is this water block optimised for my cpu or do I have to open up the water block and change something in the jets. I have never run a EK before so any tips appreciated. Need some EK 140mm fans also,wonder how much longer it will be before I can get some for my new build.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I am going to build a new system in the next few weeks with a I7 4790k cpu and wonder what EK water block is the best one to cool this. I like the looks of the gold one, also is this water block optimised for my cpu or do I have to open up the water block and change something in the jets. I have never run a EK before so any tips appreciated. Need some EK 140mm fans also,wonder how much longer it will be before I can get some for my new build.


Seeing as you do not have the Rig Builder in your sig, I would use the EK Cooling Configuration and input your hardware info. It will give you all the block suitable for your CPU and you can see what suits your eye.
http://configurator.ekwb.com/


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I am going to build a new system in the next few weeks with a I7 4790k cpu and wonder what EK water block is the best one to cool this. I like the looks of the gold one, also is this water block optimised for my cpu or do I have to open up the water block and change something in the jets. I have never run a EK before so any tips appreciated. Need some EK 140mm fans also,wonder how much longer it will be before I can get some for my new build.


Any Supremacy EVO will be a good choice for your CPU.

The 140mm fans will be available early August


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Can I administer these... Lashes?












TCO


----------



## Kimir

Got my F4-120ER white!!!















Beautiful stuff


----------



## VSG

White balance needs some adjustment there


----------



## Ceadderman

Oooooh purty...









I do have a slight criticism but it's an aesthetics issue and therefore not that big a deal. The sleeving will likely get replaced on lots of builds where the user is comfortable with sleeving their own cables. I look at these cables and see where I could run the sleeving all the way to the hub. So for me I will be replacing the sleeving. Not because the quality of the sleeving material is poor but because it *could* be better.

So for me I think bare cables would be better over sleeved cables. My recycling nature hates waste.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> White balance needs some adjustment there


Phone picture (Nexus 5)








But IMO, they make too much effort on the packaging, I'd cut some packaging cost by using brown carton (think green & all xD).


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> White balance needs some adjustment there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phone picture (Nexus 5)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But IMO, they make too much effort on the packaging, I'd cut some packaging cost by using brown carton (think green & all xD).
Click to expand...

uh oh.

*Grabs popcorn*


----------



## Nornam

Yah!!!... Not bad looking fans at all... Although I too have some reservations on a couple of points I'm afraid as well







.......

I agree cost could be cut by a bit with less flashy packaging (It gets thrown out.... It's not used to decorated your man cave!!!............ Hmmmmmmmmmm... Now you come to mention it







) also I'm not so keen on sticker covering the whole centre of the fan hub with loads of writting e.t.c... Yeh.. I know they got to show something like.... But...... well can't it be toned down a bit to give it a much cleaner & neater look....

If they cut the cost of the packaging maybe they could offer a chioce of colour for the fan cable sleeving???....

I know some will just take em apart to spray em up & sleeve to match what ever colour scheme that someone is going with because at the end of the day Performance is what most will go for. But foe those not able to sleeve or alter things too much having an Option in the shop that you could choose a colour from a list?..

Nam...







....


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Can I administer these... Lashes?


I don't know if my Dominatrix will allow you to do that...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Phone picture (Nexus 5)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But IMO, they make too much effort on the packaging, I'd cut some packaging cost by using brown carton (think green & all xD).


So you'd rather the odds of fans arriving DOA or off spec increase? I'd like to think this improved packaging is well worth it myself


----------



## Ceadderman

I think that he's referring to using recycled materials for the boxes.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Ah that I am more than ok with, but I doubt it would lower costs at all. Recycled packaging material is sometimes more expensive then new but I am not sure if this is the case for this industry also.


----------



## Kimir

Yeah I was referring to the box, the packaging. Not the fan themselves, huh.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yeah I was referring to the box, the packaging. Not the fan themselves, huh.


Brown carton fans would make for an amazing ghetto/troll gift though.


----------



## Kimir

But they would have trouble with Noctua, copying color boo boo!


----------



## Ceadderman

Naaaaw Nocturnal loves their turd brown fans.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm




----------



## Kimir

Better this way?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

any news on the 140s yet/?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> any news on the 140s yet/?


Still early August.


----------



## Arviel

I would love for EK to release a white version of their Coolstream rads. I imagine it would look great paired with those white Vardar fans.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Still early August.


last I heard was april/may sorry


----------



## SteezyTN

Just as long as the 140's come before my Case Labs SMA8 arrives, I'll be fine









My Corsaie Link Commander Mini came today. I got it just for the vardars







It better be worth it lol


----------



## Vintage

I agree with the packaging comments. Not sure how much it would save but I would be fine with them using something similar to what Darkside is using on their GTs.

Then again, I think EK likes to have the best looking packaging in the industry, even though very little is bought in an actual retail store.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> I agree with the packaging comments. Not sure how much it would save but I would be fine with them using something similar to what Darkside is using on their GTs.
> 
> Then again, I think EK likes to have the best looking packaging in the industry, even though very little is bought in an actual retail store.


Do you know how the previous packaging was?





This packaging was inadequate if I do say so myself, and had some fans arrive in less than stellar conditions as a result of being susceptible to minor drops- be it physically visible or otherwise. This is why I am glad to see the newer packaging- it is better to spend an extra $1-2 on packaging than have RMAs of products that cost much more. In this case, the cost of the extra packaging is not even passed on to the consumer either.


----------



## emsj86

Just bought the new ek released rads. From what I read there tippy too performing rads and look good to. Can't wait. Just a waiting game on my big order from ppc. All that is left to buy is cables which will be done after it's built to determine what Colors will work the best and matte black paint for painting the outside of my sm8 case. Oh and I need a name for it. Not good with names. White blue black build


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Just bought the new ek released rads. From what I read there tippy too performing rads and look good to. Can't wait. Just a waiting game on my big order from ppc. All that is left to buy is cables which will be done after it's built to determine what Colors will work the best and *matte black paint for painting the outside of my sm8 case*. Oh and I need a name for it. Not good with names. White blue black build


The SM8 comes in matte black, at no extra cost...

I don't understand what you are planning to do


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> The SM8 comes in matte black, at no extra cost...
> 
> I don't understand what you are planning to do


If I remember correctly, he bought his SM8 locally from someone and it was white.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> If I remember correctly, he bought his SM8 locally from someone and it was white.


Aha!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Just bought the new ek released rads. From what I read there tippy too performing rads and look good to. Can't wait. Just a waiting game on my big order from ppc. All that is left to buy is cables which will be done after it's built to determine what Colors will work the best and matte black paint for painting the outside of my sm8 case. Oh and I need a name for it. Not good with names. White blue black build


TriZoid?

Frog In blender?

Blue system groupie?










I'm good with names but just whipped.them out my posterior.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dagamus NM

White with black/blue. Hmm, first thought is something out the trailer park. Like RickyJulianBubbles.


----------



## kapnobatai

I don t want to push my luck here, asking more noob questions, but I need to take my chance: regarding ek fans: why would you favor a high-rpm fan+high fpi rad vs a low fpi rad+low rpm fan? Is it for cooling performance only and using physical case space at the maximum, disregarding the noise?

I would gladly use ek fans instead of my already owned Alpenfohns, but I just need to understand why would I, I thought that more rad cooling area+lower fpi -> bigger fans -> lower rpm - > less noise

Thanks, guys.


----------



## Ceadderman

More rpms = more airflow through a denser fin spacing which wouldn't get as good of airflow with slower fans.

Lack of airflow = hotter temps.

Less FPI (fins per inch) doesn't require higher airspeed and can do the same job as a high FPI radiator.









Don't sweat queations. Questions are how mankind learns.









~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Just bought the new ek released rads. From what I read there tippy too performing rads and look good to. Can't wait. Just a waiting game on my big order from ppc. All that is left to buy is cables which will be done after it's built to determine what Colors will work the best and matte black paint for painting the outside of my sm8 case. Oh and I need a name for it. Not good with names. White blue black build


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Just bought the new ek released rads. From what I read there tippy too performing rads and look good to. Can't wait. Just a waiting game on my big order from ppc. All that is left to buy is cables which will be done after it's built to determine what Colors will work the best and matte black paint for painting the outside of my sm8 case. Oh and I need a name for it. Not good with names. White blue black build
> 
> 
> 
> TriZoid?
> 
> Frog In blender?
> 
> Blue system groupie?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm good with names but just whipped.them out my posterior.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Black and Blue, eh . .

Sounds like a Bruised Ego to me . . .

Yep, I'd call it Bruised Ego . . . kinda catchy too . . .

D.


----------



## Drifbau5

I have a question regarding the EK DDC housing. I just got it set up and it looks awesome and seems to cool nicely. But I feel my MCP35X definitely got louder. The noise at full speed seems like what it used to be but at low RPMs there is a loud, low pitch, low frequency buzz. Is that normal? It was never this loud when I had the mounting foam on plastic case. I am using the vibration dampeners mounted on a UNI HOLDER. Any input? I am pretty disappointed right now because noise matters a lot to me.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Black and Blue, eh . .
> 
> Sounds like a Bruised Ego to me . . .
> 
> Yep, I'd call it Bruised Ego . . . kinda catchy too . . .
> 
> D.


No, you call it "white and gold build" to screw with people.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Black and Blue, eh . .
> 
> Sounds like a *Bruised Ego* to me . . .
> 
> Yep, I'd call it *Bruised Ego* . . . kinda catchy too . . .
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> No, you call it *"white and gold build"* to screw with people.
Click to expand...

No, I believe that *"Bruised Ego"* is classic.

In fact, that's what I'd use if this build were mine!

Fantastic name Darlene!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> I have a question regarding the EK DDC housing. I just got it set up and it looks awesome and seems to cool nicely. But I feel my MCP35X definitely got louder. The noise at full speed seems like what it used to be but at low RPMs there is a loud, low pitch, low frequency buzz. Is that normal? It was never this loud when I had the mounting foam on plastic case. I am using the vibration dampeners mounted on a UNI HOLDER. Any input? I am pretty disappointed right now because noise matters a lot to me.


Try backing out the screws a tad and see if the noise goes away. Pump might be bottomed out in the top. It happens.









~Caddell


----------



## Drifbau5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try backing out the screws a tad and see if the noise goes away. Pump might be bottomed out in the top. It happens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Caddell


Okay I will try that thanks


----------



## Sem

I have a question about the 140 vardars if you plug them into a true pwm socket do they spin up at 100% during post

Currently using some 140 noctua redux fans and want to swap them out but what i like about them is they start up really quietly when connected via pwm


----------



## akira749

EK-CoolStream CE - a successor to XTC is here!


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> I have a question about the 140 vardars if you plug them into a true pwm socket do they spin up at 100% during post
> 
> Currently using some 140 noctua redux fans and want to swap them out but what i like about them is they start up really quietly when connected via pwm


Totally depends on motherboard PWM implementation. The fan just does what the controller tell him.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK-CoolStream CE - a successor to XTC is here!


So, now I'm two performance improvements behind with my four CoolStream XTX Rads?







(2x 480's 1x 360 and 1x 240)

Or am I still in good shape?


----------



## SteezyTN

I may return my 560GTS and pick up the EK 560.


----------



## Kimir

Sigh. Since my main rig "maintenance is done", I was going to put the bench table on water as I have everything now, or so, I thought.
The table is a Dimastech Easy v3, thickness is 1.5mm, no big deal, Caselabs aluminium is more than that.

The EK rads are shipped with 6-32 UNC screw, ok np, I'm used to M3 (that I can buy easily, being in EU) but whatever, they come with the rads, I shouldn't have any issue. Unfortunately, I do.








It fit just well, one would say:

But the rad is maintained with only with one and half thread:


But this is what I wanted to do:

Hmm, nop, not gonna happen:



Why, why EK are you using UNC screws, I have tons of M3 screws even the 35mm length I need!! Now I have to find some 6-32 x 1.1/4" one, not easy on a metric country, Ebay is probably my best bet (and shipping is gonna cost more than all the screw needed.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Why, why EK are you using UNC screws, I have tons of M3 screws even the 35mm length I need!! Now I have to find some 6-32 x 1.1/4" one, not easy on a metric country, Ebay is probably my best bet (and shipping is gonna cost more than all the screw needed.


You either use UNC screws or you're a Commy.


----------



## Kimir

What?


----------



## VSG

It was a joke I imagine, and yeah I feel your pain. Be ready to also translate length in inches to mm and hope it works out else be ready to get a saw out. Luckily 1.5" works out great for what I want here (38mm, 25mm thick fan + 7mm shroud/gasket + ~2.5mm CL rad mount) so it worked out directly.


----------



## tiborrr12

The problem is that metric threads are too fine pitch for the metal and get stripped too easily. UNC is more coarse and is a good intermediate solution but yeah, it does suck in your case.

Before we take on other solution we will at least put some 35mm (1-1/4") UNC 6/32 in our webshop for your convenience.

Regards,
Niko


----------



## Kimir

Ek shop doesn't have longer screw I see.

I found those: http://www.primochill.com/product/button-head-socket-cap-screw-6-32-x-1-14/
I also found the same on Ebay, for much cheaper:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-Steel-Button-Head-Screw-100-PCS-6-32-x1-1-4-/170550050752?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b5933fc0
In both case, shipping is ~16€, for the Ebay one at least I've got more (for future use) for much less.

1-1/4 is 3.17500 centimeters, that will give me 1.75mm to screw in the rad, almost 2mm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> The problem is that metric threads are too fine pitch for the metal and get stripped too easily. UNC is more coarse and is a good intermediate solution but yeah, it does suck in your case.
> 
> Before we take on other solution we will at least put some 35mm (1-1/4") UNC 6/32 in our webshop for your convenience.
> 
> Regards,
> Niko


Some other manufacturer do use metric thread, I had no issue on that regard with my Alphacool rads. EK one have a much better finishing than them tho.

That would be great to add 35mm one, yes!


----------



## VSG

I would take 6-32 over M3 anyday. I shudder to think about supporting a 560 or 540 Monsta with those tiny things. M4 is of course even better but yeah the pitch thing is a fair point I suppose.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I would take 6-32 over M3 anyday. I shudder to think about supporting a 560 or 540 Monsta with those tiny things. M4 is of course even better but yeah the pitch thing is a fair point I suppose.


I've had zero issues with my Hardware Lab radiators. They are tapped with M4 threads from the factory. If I ever buy any EK radiators, I'll tap them to M4 myself.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> You either use UNC screws or you're a Commy.


This Made me Laugh.









TCO


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I would take 6-32 over M3 anyday. I shudder to think about supporting a 560 or 540 Monsta with those tiny things. M4 is of course even better but yeah the pitch thing is a fair point I suppose.


I personally don't care, as far as I have availability in length I need. M3 support my 2x 480 UT60, monsta 360 and 240 UT60 just fine on my panda rig. I even have only 5 screws out of 16 on my top rad, not kidding:

You may ask why? I'm lazy, I have a box full of screw somewhere, the whole loop have been pulled apart for those last weeks after some unfortunate leak and black QDC trouble.
Now with silver QDC, replaced leaking stuff and Air pressure tested over 24h, all good.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Sigh. Since my main rig "maintenance is done", I was going to put the bench table on water as I have everything now, or so, I thought.
> The table is a Dimastech Easy v3, thickness is 1.5mm, no big deal, Caselabs aluminium is more than that.
> 
> The EK rads are shipped with 6-32 UNC screw, ok np, I'm used to M3 (that I can buy easily, being in EU) but whatever, they come with the rads, I shouldn't have any issue. Unfortunately, I do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit just well, one would say:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the rad is maintained with only with one and half thread:
> 
> 
> But this is what I wanted to do:
> 
> Hmm, nop, not gonna happen:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why, why EK are you using UNC screws, I have tons of M3 screws even the 35mm length I need!! Now I have to find some 6-32 x 1.1/4" one, not easy on a metric country, Ebay is probably my best bet (and shipping is gonna cost more than all the screw needed.


The quickest work around I can see is to put the fans on the outside of the dimestec, and then counter bore the screw holes into the plastic a little so the screw heads sit down in by 2 or 3mm, that will effectively give you longer screws into the rad

D.


----------



## emsj86

Yup just got the paint for it. Satin black. Was very close to going with my old bike was candy blue but thought it might be too much bling


----------



## Ceadderman

Good to know the newer units are 6-32. I was thinking I was gonna have to re-tap my Rads for 6-32 so I can use my quickmount studs.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The quickest work around I can see is to put the fans on the outside of the dimestec, and then counter bore the screw holes into the plastic a little so the screw heads sit down in by 2 or 3mm, that will effectively give you longer screws into the rad
> 
> D.


I thought of that, but it's what I don't want to do. I have enough space to fit the fan+rad on the inside plus I scavanged those grille from dead psu, I was thinking it would look not bad and protect the fan blade.
I'm gonna get the proper screw, not in a hurry, I can still do the tubing and leak test while waiting.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> What?


If you can wait till next week i cant send you some for the cost of the post??


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> If you can wait till next week i cant send you some for the cost of the post??


That would be awesome! Now that my main rig is up and running, I have the time to setup the bench table properly.


----------



## Brian18741

Guys, what's the max RPMs of a pwm D5? This image taken from EK's website would indicate it's 4800rpm.

In my BIOS screenshot below, you will see my pump is connected to CPU Fan 1 which is set to "Full on" in the highlighted area. However f you look at the RPM's recorded above for CPU Fan 1, I'm only getting ~3500rpm. Less than 70% of what the screen shot indicates.

I only have two pwm headers on my mobo (AsRock z77 Extreme 4) and it's the same either way.

Do I have a faulty pump?


----------



## Majentrix

This VRM/NB block is beautiful.

I know about the fitting and I've fixed it


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Guys, what's the max RPMs of a pwm D5? This image taken from EK's website would indicate it's 4800rpm.
> 
> In my BIOS screenshot below, you will see my pump is connected to CPU Fan 1 which is set to "Full on" in the highlighted area. However f you look at the RPM's recorded above for CPU Fan 1, I'm only getting ~3500rpm. Less than 70% of what the screen shot indicates.
> 
> I only have two pwm headers on my mobo (AsRock z77 Extreme 4) and it's the same either way.
> 
> Do I have a faulty pump?


I typically find that the PWM D5's top out around 4500 to 4600.

You might try connecting it to a different 4 pin header that's not PWM, but has the 4th pin as +5V,

With the pumps' molex power connector connected to the PSU.

That should force it to run at max.

Also, is there any unusual sound . . . is it possible you have it too tight where the impeller is somehow rubbing the housing?

Without pictures or more info, I'm trying to think of possible things to check out first.

Darlene


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majentrix*
> 
> 
> 
> *This VRM/NB block is beautiful.*
> 
> I know about the fitting and I've fixed it


I agree, I have the same one!


----------



## Reaper28

Has anybody had problems using EK fittings with Primochill LRT tubing?


----------



## nzphil

Yes I used PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 3/8in.ID x 1/2in.OD Tubing- Crystal Clear with EK-CSQ Fitting 10/13mm G1/4 and it doesn't quite fit. I can't get the fitting screwed all the way down. It doesn't leak just looks a little funny.


----------



## Radnad

Compression fittings aren't meant to go all the way down. Your picture is perfectly normal.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzphil*
> 
> Yes I used PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 3/8in.ID x 1/2in.OD Tubing- Crystal Clear with EK-CSQ Fitting 10/13mm G1/4 and it doesn't quite fit. I can't get the fitting screwed all the way down. It doesn't leak just looks a little funny.


Leave it like it is. The issue with compression fittings is that they may not feel right or secure, but they really are. I've ruined acetal threads because I tighten them to much. When it comes to trying to remove the top connector (not the actual fitting), it can come undone and cross thread the hole. So you're safe with out it is.


----------



## nzphil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Compression fittings aren't meant to go all the way down. Your picture is perfectly normal.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Leave it like it is. The issue with compression fittings is that they may not feel right or secure, but they really are. I've ruined acetal threads because I tighten them to much. When it comes to trying to remove the top connector (not the actual fitting), it can come undone and cross thread the hole. So you're safe with out it is.


Yeah I don't intend to do anything to them and only ever tightened by hand. I just said it looked a little funny because with EK's tubing the fittings screwed down a lot more.


----------



## Reaper28

I've been having a real hard time with a competitor's compression fittings and was just curious if it was a common thing. I still have to leak test it's just been a nightmare getting tubing done. I actually find it a little discouraging to want to continue watercooling in the future


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I've been having a real hard time with a competitor's compression fittings and was just curious if it was a common thing. I still have to leak test it's just been a nightmare getting tubing done. I actually find it a little discouraging to want to continue watercooling in the future


Its the LRT tubing sizes. It was one heck of a time getting all my compression rings on. I had to lube em up to just get the thread started. Don't be discouraged. It'll all be worth it in the end.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Love RoG toys. They help kids learn how to build the real thing.









We only had Fisher Price back in my day.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Why'd you go with the Supremacy (EVO?) over the uniblock?


----------



## Majentrix

I'm using Primochill LRT tubing with Bitspower fittings and I can confirm it's tough to fit.
A fix I've found is to soak the ends of the tubes in near-boiling water for 30 seconds to soften them up, then slide them over the fitting and tighten down the cap. Makes the process a lot easier.


----------



## stanneveld

EK-CoolStream WE 360 Dual





Its like Art









57mm total (room for a 18mm silver stone fan on the other side


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Why'd you go with the Supremacy (EVO?) over the uniblock?


Because I am Different.









TCO


----------



## DuraN1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I've been having a real hard time with a competitor's compression fittings and was just curious if it was a common thing. I still have to leak test it's just been a nightmare getting tubing done. I actually find it a little discouraging to want to continue watercooling in the future


Its the LRT. Ive tried both EK and BP compression fittings and decided to skip it entirely on my current build. Regular fittings, the fit is so tight i dont even need zip ties


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> That would be awesome! Now that my main rig is up and running, I have the time to setup the bench table properly.


Will let you know on pm on the screws. Pm me your address.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Because I am Different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


That is so true!!!


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Its the LRT tubing sizes. It was one heck of a time getting all my compression rings on. I had to lube em up to just get the thread started. Don't be discouraged. It'll all be worth it in the end.


I hope so, considering it's my first time watercooling I think I could have done worse lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majentrix*
> 
> I'm using Primochill LRT tubing with Bitspower fittings and I can confirm it's tough to fit.
> A fix I've found is to soak the ends of the tubes in near-boiling water for 30 seconds to soften them up, then slide them over the fitting and tighten down the cap. Makes the process a lot easier.


I actually poured distilled water on some of the fittings and the ends of the tubing to make the tube slip over the fitting but it didn't seem to work well with actually getting the compression ring on. I actually used so much force doing my GPU fittings together I can't get them apart now lol







. I still have to do 3 more fittings I might try boiling some distilled water and see if it helps any.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> That is so true!!!


(High FIve Seross)









TCO


----------



## Reaper28

Should I be worried if the GPU's are pushing eachother apart sort of?. I woke up this morning to seeing them sagging and they weren't when I installed the tubing/fittings. I'm just worried about damage to my board

EDIT - pic related

http://i.imgur.com/2S4akUN.jpg


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Should I be worried if the GPU's are pushing eachother apart sort of?. I woke up this morning to seeing them sagging and they weren't when I installed the tubing/fittings. I'm just worried about damage to my board
> 
> EDIT - pic related
> http://i.imgur.com/2S4akUN.jpg


Wow, that tubing is really fighting your blocks.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Wow, that tubing is really fighting your blocks.


Yeah it's been a learning experience to say the least. I just ordered a terminal to get rid of the fittings hopefully that helps, it's not how I wanted the system to look but nothing has gone my way with this build so I just have to deal with it I guess.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Yeah it's been a learning experience to say the least. I just ordered a terminal to get rid of the fittings hopefully that helps, it's not how I wanted the system to look but nothing has gone my way with this build so I just have to deal with it I guess.


Thats exactly why i bought the EK acetal bridge.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Yeah it's been a learning experience to say the least. I just ordered a terminal to get rid of the fittings hopefully that helps, it's not how I wanted the system to look but nothing has gone my way with this build so I just have to deal with it I guess.


Would installing backplates help? That way you could keep the single terminals.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Would installing backplates help? That way you could keep the single terminals.


He probably needs to shave a couple mms off the tube between the cards - to me it looks like that might be what's pushing the cards apart


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> He probably needs to shave a couple mms off the tube between the cards - to me it looks like that might be what's pushing the cards apart


Probably so, bit don't the cards inherently sag without back plates? I know the dual terminal helped a ton with my cards.


----------



## deehoC

Didn't see any mention of this in the thread yet so I figured I'd post it.

"Breaking news! EK announces brand new high end AIO unit at Altex's booth featuring quick disconnects to easily liquid cool your GPU!"

https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks/photos/a.588113244576044.1073741836.182927101761329/881800788540620/?type=1&theater

Pretty freakin awesome I might add. I'd like to get my hands on one in the future to compare it with something like my Swiftech H240-X


----------



## Reaper28

Backplates were already installed, if you enlarge the picture you can see the outline of them. There doesn't seem to be any board damage maybe thinking I saw the PCI-e pins was just my imagination lol. I took off the port bridge on the cards and removed the fittings and just bought a terminal. Does anybody have an idea of how I can shorten up the tubing which goes from the pump to the bottom rad inlet? I've got a 45 going to it but that didn't seem to help much and the tubing is bending about as much as it can with out pulling off the pump outlet fitting


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Didn't see any mention of this in the thread yet so I figured I'd post it.
> 
> "Breaking news! EK announces brand new high end AIO unit at Altex's booth featuring quick disconnects to easily liquid cool your GPU!"
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks/photos/a.588113244576044.1073741836.182927101761329/881800788540620/?type=1&theater
> 
> Pretty freakin awesome I might add. I'd like to get my hands on one in the future to compare it with something like my Swiftech H240-X


Awesome! I know what I am gonna be buying for my Bros rig. He's not into maintenance of a custom loop, but is willing to install an AIO. That AIO would fill the bill quite nicely and get him back up and Folding. His current cooler(air) is ridiculous for cooling. If he's not running the AC he can't even game. CPU ramps up to 65c in no time. Personally I think he's got a heat chip that needs to be RMA'ed but to clear up if that's the problem, he has to pull his MB to allow access to his backplate to try a clean and reseat.

So I know what we're doing as soon as this hits the market. RMA the chip and install that EK beauty.









~Ceadder


----------



## King4x4

That AIO will be a game changer no questions asked!


----------



## Ceadderman

When is it launching? That's my biggest concern.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> When is it launching? That's my biggest concern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Who cares do custom


----------



## Ceadderman

My brother cares. I do custom. He doesn't.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brother cares. I do custom. He doesn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ok you are right and what i said was rude!


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Wait, so you can literally quick disconnect the pump -> cpu portion and throw in a video card to the loop and do pump -> gpu -> cpu? That's crazy.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Wait, so you can literally quick disconnect the pump -> cpu portion and throw in a video card to the loop and do pump -> gpu -> cpu? That's crazy.


Same with custom loop


----------



## Kimir

So it could mean there is a chance to see qdc by EK soon?


----------



## seross69

I really do not like QDC's ! Easy to drain and change


----------



## Kimir

So do I.
Got the known issue with the black koolance, now I have the silver one. Would love to see the EK ones.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Same with custom loop


The point is, people who get this type of thing (AIO) aren't the ones who usually mess with real watercooling. When EK makes it this easy, I'm sure they will get the watercooling noobs who just want to cool their CPU but have the option to expand it in the future. Sort of like the super easy version of Swiftech's H240-X and H220-X.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> The point is, people who get this type of thing (AIO) aren't the ones who usually mess with real watercooling. When EK makes it this easy, I'm sure they will get the watercooling noobs who just want to cool their CPU but have the option to expand it in the future. Sort of like the super easy version of Swiftech's H240-X and H220-X.


Sorry just don't understand this


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Sorry just don't understand this


That's OK, I didn't expect you to.


----------



## Kimir

Well adding a component in the AIO like this will still require to add coolant, where is the reservoir in this thing and is it easy to refill. That's the question.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Well adding a component in the AIO like this will still require to add coolant, where is the reservoir in this thing and is it easy to refill. That's the question.


Thank you


----------



## VSG

Guess who was at the Altex booth during all this?









I handled the 240mm and 360mm version as well as the QDCs. I don't know how much I can say but the QDCs have me excited.

Kimir: Pump and res (and a nice extra thing that I think EK should reveal) are on the end of the rad itself. So yes, this will be longer than just rads.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Guess who was at the Altex booth during all this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I handled the 240mm and 360mm version as well as the QDCs. I don't know how much I can say but the QDCs have me excited.
> 
> Kimir: Pump and res (and a nice extra thing that I think EK should reveal) are on the end of the rad itself. So yes, this will be longer than just rads.


I think I know what you're referring to sir!



Unless my eyes deceive me I see lettering for the following:

Power In
PWR or PWM?
TACHO
FAN1 and FAN2


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Guess who was at the Altex booth during all this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I handled the 240mm and 360mm version as well as the QDCs. I don't know how much I can say but the QDCs have me excited.
> 
> Kimir: Pump and res (and a nice extra thing that I think EK should reveal) are on the end of the rad itself. So yes, this will be longer than just rads.


So basically it would be wonderful for quick and cheerful bench testing before dice/ln2, without having to worry about massive air coolers and their "some assembly required after mounting" dual tower setups.

Or for an htpc, or my hubby's rig (as he just wants better cooling without having to mess around with every little detail)....

Nice.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> I think I know what you're referring to sir!
> 
> 
> 
> Unless my eyes deceive me I see lettering for the following:
> 
> Power In
> PWR or PWM?
> TACHO
> FAN1 and FAN2


Yes, yes, yes and a bit more.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> So basically it would be wonderful for quick and cheerful bench testing before dice/ln2, without having to worry about massive air coolers and their "some assembly required after mounting" dual tower setups.
> 
> Or for an htpc, or my hubby's rig (as he just wants better cooling without having to mess around with every little detail)....
> 
> Nice.


Yeah so just keep in mind that this uses Supremacy MX so it will be super easy to install on LGA 2011(-3) but requires a socket BP change on LGA 115x.

QDCs are even more convenient to use than the Koolance ones, and that's saying something. I think I should really stop here before I void any NDA lol.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah so just keep in mind that this uses Supremacy MX so it will be super easy to install on LGA 2011(-3) but requires a socket BP change on LGA 115x.
> 
> QDCs are even more convenient to use than the Koolance ones, and that's saying something. I think I should really stop here before I void any NDA lol.


News to my ears. Can't wait to find out more... When they choose to lift the NDA, of course!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yes, yes, yes and a bit more.
> *Yeah so just keep in mind that this uses Supremacy MX so it will be super easy to install on LGA 2011(-3) but requires a socket BP change on LGA 115x.*
> 
> QDCs are even more convenient to use than the Koolance ones, and that's saying something. I think I should really stop here before I void any NDA lol.


you can buy regular mount and backplate. it is compatible.

It really was not too bad swaping sockets though.

Sounds like u got a review coming....... looking forward to it.


----------



## Kimir

Oh QDC even more convenient that Koolance (QD3?) you say, I'm all


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> you can buy regular mount and backplate. it is compatible.
> 
> It really was not too bad swaping sockets though.
> 
> Sounds like u got a review coming....... looking forward to it.


Yeah but most of the non custom loop BYOC guys I spoke to, and I spoke to a good 150+ of them, said that they would only consider /do liquid cooling if it came in an all inclusive kit ready to go out the box. These kits, as with the Swiftech and Alphacool offerings, really aren't intended for us guys.

Agreed with you on that the actual swap wasn't really hard, but convincing people to do it at all is the hurdle.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah but most of the non custom loop BYOC guys I spoke to, and I spoke to a good 150+ of them, said that they would only consider /do liquid cooling if it came in an all inclusive kit ready to go out the box. These kits, as with the Swiftech and Alphacool offerings, really aren't intended for us guys.
> 
> Agreed with you on that the actual swap wasn't really hard, but convincing people to do it at all is the hurdle.


They should ship this with the standard mount.

The swap was not hard and I was not too worried as I have delided cpus and such.

Some Aio users will be intimidated by removing that socket. I mean all those pins exposed could be intimating.

Since there are a lot more z97 than x99 it would make sense. I look for this aio to be very close in cost to thier L kits anyway.

Exciting to see thier product line expand anyways.


----------



## VSG

Yup, and that's what I told them then. But for the most part it does seem like a good lineup, and pricing will be key.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brother cares. I do custom. He doesn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok you are right and what i said was rude!
Click to expand...

No worries. I didn't take it as you being rude. I figured you meant it in good nature.









__________

Will the AIO be AM3/3+ compatible?

Was Signalkuppe there too?










~Ceadder


----------



## stanneveld

Somehow i think that EK AIO is going to die real fast if they are realy using a DDC pwm on there.
I got 3 of them here and without a EK cooling block they get extremely hot on the bottom.
And on this thing its got like no airflow whatsoever.
All that stuff on the radiator makes it longer to.
The idea is not realy new neither, here in Europe Aquacomputer makes this stuff for years.
Including USB control flow meters, pump control, level meters and what not.
(there is a reason they dont use DDC but a D5 of Eheim)


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanneveld*
> 
> Somehow i think that EK AIO is going to die real fast if they are realy using a DDC pwm on there.
> I got 3 of them here and without a EK cooling block they get extremely hot on the bottom.
> And on this thing its got like no airflow whatsoever.
> All that stuff on the radiator makes it longer to.
> The idea is not realy new neither, here in Europe Aquacomputer makes this stuff for years.
> Including USB control flow meters, pump control, level meters and what not.
> (there is a reason they dont use DDC but a D5 of Eheim)


Ek has a 10w pwm version of the DDC.

The version you have are 18w. The 10w dont get very hot at all and provide the same flow as at d5 vario on 4.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I hope so, considering it's my first time watercooling I think I could have done worse lol.
> I actually poured distilled water on some of the fittings and the ends of the tubing to make the tube slip over the fitting but it didn't seem to work well with actually getting the compression ring on. I actually used so much force doing my GPU fittings together I can't get them apart now lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I still have to do 3 more fittings I might try boiling some distilled water and see if it helps any.


It's completely normal to have a gap on the compression fittings. The collar is compressing the tube to hold it on, so if there is no gap it as actually a good sign that the tube is undersize and the fittings won't hold it properly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Probably so, bit don't the cards inherently sag without back plates? I know the dual terminal helped a ton with my cards.


Back plates do not do anything about card sagging. A thin alloy back plate is way less stiff than a 10mm or so solid copper water block.
Sagging is not about stiffness. It's simply a normal result of holding a flat object by two adjacent sides.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Ek has a 10w pwm version of the DDC.
> 
> The version you have are 18w. The 10w dont get very hot at all and provide the same flow as at d5 vario on 4.


Yes, very much this.

This aio move has me very intrigued. It seems to be much the same as the l kits which prompts the question what now makes an aio vs a true custom loop. The parts are all very much the same and it surely can't be as simple as whether it comes or filled or not.

So I guess it comes down to those interesting looking electronics on the end of the rad assembly.

I gotta say if going as far as this device I would rather go true custom but it does fit into something that I could easily recommend to friends that don't have experience and just want something that works well.
Plus it seems to be world's better looking than your average aio.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It's completely normal to have a gap on the compression fittings. The collar is compressing the tube to hold it on, so if there is no gap it as actually a good sign that the tube is undersize and the fittings won't hold it properly.
> Back plates do not do anything about card sagging. A thin alloy back plate is way less stiff than a 10mm or so solid copper water block.
> Sagging is not about stiffness. It's simply a normal result of holding a flat object by two adjacent sides.
> Yes, very much this.
> 
> This aio move has me very intrigued. It seems to be much the same as the l kits which prompts the question what now makes an aio vs a true custom loop. The parts are all very much the same and it surely can't be as simple as whether it comes or filled or not.
> 
> So I guess it comes down to those interesting looking electronics on the end of the rad assembly.
> 
> I gotta say if going as far as this device I would rather go true custom but it does fit into something that I could easily recommend to friends that don't have experience and just want something that works well.
> Plus it seems to be world's better looking than your average aio.


And would make a great combo paired with a evga hydrocopper card.

It would also be really cool if evga paired up and offered the 360mm aio kit with the hydrocopper so it can come sealed including the gpu.

Or better yet if you order your gpu block and the AIO they ship it pre filled with the block joined.

Full custom loop look/performance including cpu/gpu would open the market to otherwise regular aio users.


----------



## VSG

There's a thread in the EK forum here where they confirmed that reference PCB GPU blocks will be sold also with some tubing and QDCs installed and the system prefilled so one can add it to the cart with the 360mm predator. The tubing length may not work out for everyone so it's not a universal solution but better than anything else I have seen in terms of quick AIO expansion.

Jaks: The electronics at the end got me interested more because it is nicely integrated there and looks like a tease of the Signalkuppe. This is functionally a powered PWM splitter and offers no control itself. The means to provide power is not the usual solution.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There's a thread in the EK forum here where they confirmed that reference PCB GPU blocks will be sold also with some tubing and QDCs installed and the system prefilled so one can add it to the cart with the 360mm predator. The tubing length may not work out for everyone so it's not a universal solution but better than anything else I have seen in terms of quick AIO expansion.
> 
> Jaks: The electronics at the end got me interested more because it is nicely integrated there and looks like a tease of the Signalkuppe. This is functionally a powered PWM splitter and offers no control itself. The means to provide power is not the usual solution.


That's just awesome. Giving users a taste of watercooling so they get addicted and buy the real stuff afterwards (like what happened to me).


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It's completely normal to have a gap on the compression fittings. The collar is compressing the tube to hold it on, so if there is no gap it as actually a good sign that the tube is undersize and the fittings won't hold it properly.
> 
> That is part of the problem, the compression ring will slide down but on some I can barely get 1 thread on without it sliding off or going on an angle which I find weird
> 
> EDIT* Lol messed up my post. My reply anyways ^


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanneveld*
> 
> Somehow i think that EK AIO is going to die real fast if they are realy using a DDC pwm on there.
> I got 3 of them here and without a EK cooling block they get extremely hot on the bottom.
> And on this thing its got like no airflow whatsoever.
> All that stuff on the radiator makes it longer to.
> The idea is not realy new neither, here in Europe Aquacomputer makes this stuff for years.
> Including USB control flow meters, pump control, level meters and what not.
> (there is a reason they dont use DDC but a D5 of Eheim)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Ek has a 10w pwm version of the DDC.
> 
> The version you have are 18w. The 10w dont get very hot at all and provide the same flow as at d5 vario on 4.


All I can say for now is that the DDC on the EK-Predator won't get as hot as a standard DDC do. The wattage on this DDC pump differs









Also, space-wise, the complete unit is not much longer than a normal EK-PE radiator so it will fit in a good bunch of cases


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> That is part of the problem, the compression ring will slide down but on some I can barely get 1 thread on without it sliding off or going on an angle which I find weird


Ok, well that is a little more extreme than it should be. The tubing must be slightly over size. There is variation in size no matter the type or brand of tubing.
Although, the fittings used does make some difference. I have had tube that was hard to use with EK fittings but was much easier with Bitspower. It's a little bit of a lottery and a new lot of tubing may work better.


----------



## Wirerat

Ek compression fittings fit all the way down on the ek zmt tubing. That tubing is different than most though. It is more stretchy for lack of a better word.

I have seen the same complaint using other tubings though. As long as it feels solid when you tug on it and no coolant leaks its fine.


----------



## snef

now i know i can use the 2 ports on top, no need to use the one on the side, it will be great for symmetry loop


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> now i know i can use the 2 ports on top, no need to use the one on the side, it will be great for symmetry loop


Lookin' good snef...


----------



## Anateus

What are the chances that EK xres D5 combo will fit there using fan mount and pump mount? There are no dimensions on EK site, and it looks like there is 93,5mm clearance from rad to mobo tray.




I might alternatively mount that outside on the exhaust fan.. has anyone ever done that?


----------



## Jakusonfire

The d5 xres, uni mount and 120 fan mount extends a max of 115mm from the face of the fan or rad it is mounted to.


----------



## Ottetal

Afterall, not a ton of EK blocks. As the matter in fact, only two. Two 240s were cutting it a taaaaaad bit low on cooling both the 3820, and three graphics cards









I Hope I can still join!


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> What are the chances that EK xres D5 combo will fit there using fan mount and pump mount? There are no dimensions on EK site, and it looks like there is 93,5mm clearance from rad to mobo tray.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might alternatively mount that outside on the exhaust fan.. has anyone ever done that?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The d5 xres, uni mount and 120 fan mount extends a max of 115mm from the face of the fan or rad it is mounted to.


Thanks.. damn. I really want 240 XE rad in front, but its soo thick.


----------



## bfedorov11

What do you guys think? I ordered the nickel d5 top and it looks like spray paint. It is very dull and the coating is not uniform. Anyone else have one of these? Does it look very smooth and shiny like in other pictures? Would this clean up with a dremel?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Mine looks fine. I would contact support if you aren't happy. I can't tell a lot from your pic or how different it is


----------



## bfedorov11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine looks fine. I would contact support if you aren't happy. I can't tell a lot from your pic or how different it is


Thanks... oh yeah, mine does not look like that at all. Mine looks like a cheap repro. It really does look like chrome spray paint. In my picture, you can feel that texture.

Eh, now I have to pay for shipping to mail back a $20 item.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> now i know i can use the 2 ports on top, no need to use the one on the side, it will be great for symmetry loop


Looks good snef. What did you use to get two fittings at that end. I have the acetal version and mine is machined for the cap.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ottetal*
> 
> Afterall, not a ton of EK blocks. As the matter in fact, only two. Two 240s were cutting it a taaaaaad bit low on cooling both the 3820, and three graphics cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I Hope I can still join!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice gear! looks really sweet.









How are temps with that gpu sandwich? I would think they get really hot. You shouldnt need to oc really with three but do they at least boost without throttling?

I know you dont have room for another rad in the case but maybe you could put the gpus on a sep loop and go external rad with quik disconnects? Just an idea.









It does look good with the ref air coolers though.

I see EK stuff in the pictures. Thats the only requirement I know of


----------



## Panther Al

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Guess who was at the Altex booth during all this?


Thermaltake's R&D department?









So unable to resist making the joke...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> Thermaltake's R&D department?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So unable to resist making the joke...


The funny thing is that the TT booth was actually right behind us


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> What do you guys think? I ordered the nickel d5 top and it looks like spray paint. It is very dull and the coating is not uniform. Anyone else have one of these? Does it look very smooth and shiny like in other pictures? Would this clean up with a dremel?


Did you bought it directly from the EK webshop or from a reseller?

The finish isn't right for sure.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks good snef. What did you use to get two fittings at that end. I have the acetal version and mine is machined for the cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks

same machined hole for cap
use a 2mm bitspower spacer and use a dremel to remove just a bit on diameter
just enough to fit in the machined hole


----------



## BugBash

Full EK setup plumbed in, opinions on my Temps please,
Bear in mind, there is a sticker on one corner of the xeon chip to swap pins.
Good or Bad really, Im at Stock 3.33Ghz


----------



## DanBr

Can't find correct EK fittings
I have the Coolstream XE radiators and I would like to get port extenders like the two that come on the radiator
I ordered these from Performance PC (also bought the radiators from them)
EK-AF Extender 8mm M-F G1/4 - Black
and they do not seat, they are too wide and won't get below the shroud.
I think I need some that are 16mm diameter
The ones on the radiators have a "step" that lets them get below the shroud on the radiator.

thanks for any help
Dan


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Ek compression fittings fit all the way down on the ek zmt tubing. That tubing is different than most though. It is more stretchy for lack of a better word.
> 
> I have seen the same complaint using other tubings though. As long as it feels solid when you tug on it and no coolant leaks its fine.


The tubing is pretty secure I've pulled on a few of them and it doesn't come off, just some of the compression rings lol


----------



## Anateus

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-uni-holder-50-70

Can D5 xres be mounted straight onto it? Or do I need to use other uni holder together with that?


----------



## bfedorov11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Did you bought it directly from the EK webshop or from a reseller?
> 
> The finish isn't right for sure.


Performance pcs


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Can't find correct EK fittings
> I have the Coolstream XE radiators and I would like to get port extenders like the two that come on the radiator
> I ordered these from Performance PC (also bought the radiators from them)
> EK-AF Extender 8mm M-F G1/4 - Black
> and they do not seat, they are too wide and won't get below the shroud.
> I think I need some that are 16mm diameter
> The ones on the radiators have a "step" that lets them get below the shroud on the radiator.
> 
> thanks for any help
> Dan


This sounds like you are looking for the same extenders that allow using the bottom ports of an EK-tube res. I don't know if those parts are sold separately. Akira might be able to help you out here.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Can't find correct EK fittings
> I have the Coolstream XE radiators and I would like to get port extenders like the two that come on the radiator
> I ordered these from Performance PC (also bought the radiators from them)
> EK-AF Extender 8mm M-F G1/4 - Black
> and they do not seat, they are too wide and won't get below the shroud.
> I think I need some that are 16mm diameter
> The ones on the radiators have a "step" that lets them get below the shroud on the radiator.
> 
> thanks for any help
> Dan


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> This sounds like you are looking for the same extenders that allow using the bottom ports of an EK-tube res. I don't know if those parts are sold separately. Akira might be able to help you out here.


Done









The answer is in the thread you started @DanBr


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> Performance pcs


Ok so you don't need to open a ticket on the EK website and pay shipping back to Slovenia. PPCS will handle the RMA.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The answer is in the thread you started @DanBr


thanks, I got it
Dan


----------



## funfordcobra

Hey guys I'm building my first loop and have just a few questions.

Which GPU bridge do I need if I use PCIE slots 1 and 3 for SLI? I see one close but it seems a bit too short.
Do I use plugs on a bridge for 3 GPUs to "skip" the slot/gpu and move down to the 3rd?

I am using g1/4 short barbed 3/8 fittings. I will be suing 3/8 inner with 1/2 outer soft tubing. Is this s good choice?
I see the compression fittings but I have never had my hands on one and don't quite understand them...

Should I go series or parallel?

Any advice on fittings, GPU bridges, and tubing via EKWB website would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.


----------



## bfedorov11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Hey guys I'm building my first loop and have just a few questions.
> 
> Which GPU bridge do I need if I use PCIE slots 1 and 3 for SLI? I see one close but it seems a bit too short.
> Do I use plugs on a bridge for 3 GPUs to "skip" the slot/gpu and move down to the 3rd?
> 
> I am using g1/4 short barbed 3/8 fittings. I will be suing 3/8 inner with 1/2 outer soft tubing. Is this s good choice?
> I see the compression fittings but I have never had my hands on one and don't quite understand them...
> 
> Should I go series or parallel?
> 
> Any advice on fittings, GPU bridges, and tubing via EKWB website would be greatly appreciated.
> Thank you.


What motherboard? Check the manual. Some slots are limited to lanes so you may be required to use specific slots. If it is normal spacing, yes slots 1 and 3 would require a 3 slot bridge with a the plug in the middle. Spacing like the asus formula require a 2 slot extra wide bridge.

The tubing should be good with barbs. Depending on brand combination, sometimes tubing maybe too tight or too loose on some compression fittings. Compression just looks cleaner. They are more expensive too. Barbs are the most reliable. I would stay with barbs unless you really care about appearance.

Series or parallel won't really matter, but flow will be cut in half with parallel. I ran series but I am switching to parallel. With two cards, flow will be reversed through one card. Some of the new ek gpu blocks use plates like the cpu blocks. The instructions state direction doesn't matter, but I don't believe it as my bottom card was 3 to 4 degrees warmer.


----------



## Kritikill

My MSI X99 SLI plus uses 1 and 3 @ x16. I use a Dual Serial Terminal Block. I had order the Triple and couldn't use it, so it's collecting dust.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> My MSI X99 SLI plus uses 1 and 3 @ x16. I use a Dual Serial Terminal Block. I had order the Triple and couldn't use it, so it's collecting dust.


My CVFZ uses slots 1 & 4, both at x16...


----------



## funfordcobra

I'm using the Asus x99 deluxe. It has 2 x16 pcie slots between the usual 1st and 3rd which threw me off. So actually I'm using the 1st and 4th pcie slot but the spacing is just like 1st and 3rd slot.


----------



## stanneveld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Ek has a 10w pwm version of the DDC.
> 
> The version you have are 18w. The 10w dont get very hot at all and provide the same flow as at d5 vario on 4.


Must be me then since i have an DDC PWM from EK and its 18 watt, the non pwm version is 20watt they dont have a 10watt
(dont actualy have a EK one. just the original from Liang without the 25,- euro EK sticker







)

B.T.W. i am still amazed by them DDC x-res 100's i have. silently humming away, see nothing but s slight vibration in the water.
Same combo on my Bitspower 200 res and it looked like a warzone in there








(560 lieters/hour)


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanneveld*
> 
> Must be me then since i have an DDC PWM from EK and its 18 watt, the non pwm version is 20watt *they dont have a 10watt*
> (dont actualy have a EK one. just the original from Liang without the 25,- euro EK sticker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> B.T.W. i am still amazed by them DDC x-res 100's i have. silently humming away, see nothing but s slight vibration in the water.
> Same combo on my Bitspower 200 res and it looked like a warzone in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (560 lieters/hour)


They dont sell the 6w pwm version solo.

It is the ddc included in the new 2.0 L kits though. Read the specs of the pump in the kit below.

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-kit-l360-r2-0
Quote:


> EK-XRES 100 DDC MX 3.1 PWM water pump / reservoir combo is also brand new, cost-reduced variant of the market proven EK-XRES DDC pump/reservoir combo unit, *powered by Laing DDC 3.1 PWM (6W) pump*.


Your 18w and 20w will be much hotter than that pump.

I have the (18w) mcp35x with bitspower heatsink and heat is not an issue.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I'm using the Asus x99 deluxe. It has 2 x16 pcie slots between the usual 1st and 3rd which threw me off. So actually I'm using the 1st and 4th pcie slot but the spacing is just like 1st and 3rd slot.


Ok, forget the number of 16x slots in between them. How many pcie slots (of any size) are in between the 2 slots your cards will be connected?


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Ok, forget the number of 16x slots in between them. How many pcie slots (of any size) are in between the 2 slots your cards will be connected?


two


----------



## Kritikill

Probably will need a Triple.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> two


Cool then you need one of these two depending on if you want parallel or serial









Parallel : EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel 3-Slot

Serial : EK-FC Terminal DUAL Serial 3-Slot

Both versions are also available in plexi version too.

Cheers!


----------



## bigporl

Hi all. Just received my waterblockand backplate for my 980ti reference. As they are originally meant for the titan x does tge backplate need any thermal pads. I know the ram isnt on the back but i think it explains that you put some pads on the other place on the backplate or am i wrong?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> Hi all. Just received my waterblockand backplate for my 980ti reference. As they are originally meant for the titan x does tge backplate need any thermal pads. I know the ram isnt on the back but i think it explains that you put some pads on the other place on the backplate or am i wrong?


Thats how the 970 backplates worked. The pads lined up with the ram on the front and help keep the pcb cool. I would think its the same on the 980 ti.

Edit: you may need to double up the pads to make up for the missing memory.


----------



## bigporl

On my 780 there was no need to put pads on the backplate as there was no ram there same as as the 980ti but i think its also showing to put pads on the part of the backplate that covers the cpu an vrms. Is this right.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> On my 780 there was no need to put pads on the backplate as there was no ram there same as as the 980ti but i think its also showing to put pads on the part of the backplate that covers the cpu an vrms. Is this right.


I always pad slap backplates due to the metal, and you know, electricity . Those are dangerous together.

TCO


----------



## bigporl

Thanks I'll put pads on the vrm an cpu section then. Also it mentions a little thermal paste on the pads on the waterblock side it didnt mention this with the previous generation. Is it necessary?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> Thanks I'll put pads on the vrm an cpu section then. Also it mentions a little thermal paste on the pads on the waterblock side it didnt mention this with the previous generation. Is it necessary?


I don't use thermal paste. Just pad slap um as per instructions of where.









TCO

EDIT: Thermal Paste on the part that will be touching the GPU Chip? Do that. But on the side of the backplate, no.


----------



## bigporl

Thanks. Yeah i know about putting it on gpu. Been doing this a while but with the instructions you get and from reading here n there you het so many contradictions i just thought id ask about first.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> Performance pcs


If I had to take a guess you ended up getting a silver one by accident. Do they sell one that looks similar to yours because that's def not nickel.


----------



## bfedorov11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Ok so you don't need to open a ticket on the EK website and pay shipping back to Slovenia. PPCS will handle the RMA.


They told me they are waiting to hear back from EK for some reason. Sounds like they're going to give me the run around.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-uni-holder-50-70
> 
> Can D5 xres be mounted straight onto it? Or do I need to use other uni holder together with that?


Not sure exactly what you mean but they can be used like this


----------



## snef

a build by @Kidam101
photo by snef



















and now UV


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Not sure exactly what you mean but they an be used like this


What is the pump mounted directly on? It doesnt look like the uni holder with hole, nor its another 50/70 holder.. right?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> What is the pump mounted on? It doesnt look like the uni holder with hole, nor its another 50/70 holder.. right?


It is actually the uni holder that comes standard with it. It is just the older original model that had an open front. It's the same thing, just slightly different shape.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It is actually the uni holder that comes standard with it. It is just the older original model that had an open front. It's the same thing, just slightly different shape.


That answers my first question then. Thanks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Not sure exactly what you mean but they an be used like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is the pump mounted directly on? It doesnt look like the uni holder with hole, nor its another 50/70 holder.. right?
Click to expand...

Would love to do that with my DDC kit.









If anyone had those brackets and ain't using them I will take me off their hands.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> They told me they are waiting to hear back from EK for some reason. Sounds like they're going to give me the run around.


PPC is good to deal with but they want to make sure they will not lose money
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Would love to do that with my DDC kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone had those brackets and ain't using them I will take me off their hands.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I think i have some


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> They told me they are waiting to hear back from EK for some reason. Sounds like they're going to give me the run around.
> 
> 
> 
> PPC is good to deal with but they want to make sure they will not lose money
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Would love to do that with my DDC kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone had those brackets and ain't using them I will take me off their hands.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think i have some
Click to expand...

Excellent! Will get em from you when I get funds in PP for sleeving too.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Excellent! Will get em from you when I get funds in PP for sleeving too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yes i still have red sleeving


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Excellent! Will get em from you when I get funds in PP for sleeving too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes i still have red sleeving
Click to expand...

Sweet. Maybe EK should get with Nils to get MDPC to the masses.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sweet. Maybe EK should get with Nils to get MDPC to the masses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No i like nils and his store!! If you want it you need to wait and shop at correct time


----------



## Ceadderman

am a couple hours behind you so yeah that's not likely atm. MDPC site is currently down too. But I hear ya.









Wish I could simply call in an order. $:€ exchange rates make it more than worthwhile at the moment.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> am a couple hours behind you so yeah that's not likely atm. MDPC site is currently down too. But I hear ya.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I could simply call in an order. $:€ exchange rates make it more than worthwhile at the moment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


going to be selling these tomorrow if you want let me know




the bottom is red and not orange as you can see from above


----------



## Ceadderman

The above is mine correct? Not the Red.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The above is mine correct? Not the Red.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Can all be yours for ??? Pm me

Last of the mdpc


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> They told me they are waiting to hear back from EK for some reason. Sounds like they're going to give me the run around.


Please let me know what they told you.


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> a build by @Kidam101
> photo by snef


Sick build!

Is that 16/14mm tubing?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Not sure exactly what you mean but they can be used like this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This reminds me of Armoured Core mechs.









Even has something resembling the Sam Turrets mounted to the shoulders.









TCO


----------



## Leyaena

So I was wondering...
Since Asus boards apparently force you to run your GPU's in the 1st and 3rd PCI-E x16 slots when running a 5820k, the cards are actually pretty far apart when you've got water blocks on them.
So much so, even, that I had to use a 3-way SLI connector because the regular 2-way one wouldn't reach the second card (I think it was 1 slot too short).

The slot's you're supposed to be installing in are the ones marked 1 and 4 in this picture:
(so in other words, there's 3 slots in between cards)


Does EK have a terminal to connect GPU's in this layout?
I can't imagine I'm the only person dealing with this issue...


----------



## t1337dude

Can't wait for the Gigabyte 980 TI water block to come out so I can be an owner too









Hope it's soon


----------



## Moonmanovich

//


----------



## Leyaena

Hadn't thought of doing it that way.
Thanks, man!


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> Sick build!
> 
> Is that 16/14mm tubing?


Thanks

nope,its 12/10mm


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> nope,its 12/10mm


What about that awesome fluid? Mayhems is my guess? Thanks in advance.

Willius


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> All I can say for now is that the DDC on the EK-Predator won't get as hot as a standard DDC do. The wattage on this DDC pump differs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, space-wise, the complete unit is not much longer than a normal EK-PE radiator so it will fit in a good bunch of cases


Definitely great to hear it isn't really all that longer than a regular radiator, as some cases can be somewhat tight. Can't wait to hear about pricing because it's such a lovely looking expandable aio!


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> What about that awesome fluid? Mayhems is my guess? Thanks in advance.
> 
> Willius


Yes its Mayhems lime something, dont remember, @Kidam101 can answer this


----------



## scorpscarx

Thinking of going to x99 soon, quick question about evo supremacy block.

What kind of temp difference are we talking if I change the insert and jet plate to the 2011-3 recommended ones?


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> So I was wondering...
> Since Asus boards apparently force you to run your GPU's in the 1st and 3rd PCI-E x16 slots when running a 5820k, the cards are actually pretty far apart when you've got water blocks on them.
> So much so, even, that I had to use a 3-way SLI connector because the regular 2-way one wouldn't reach the second card (I think it was 1 slot too short).
> 
> The slot's you're supposed to be installing in are the ones marked 1 and 4 in this picture:
> (so in other words, there's 3 slots in between cards)
> 
> 
> Does EK have a terminal to connect GPU's in this layout?
> I can't imagine I'm the only person dealing with this issue...


@BazG had the same issue on his log http://www.overclock.net/t/1535714/build-log-shockwave-caselabs-s8-with-pedestal-x99-asus-rampage-i7-watercooled/720#post_24162621


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> So I was wondering...
> Since Asus boards apparently force you to run your GPU's in the 1st and 3rd PCI-E x16 slots when running a 5820k, the cards are actually pretty far apart when you've got water blocks on them.
> So much so, even, that I had to use a 3-way SLI connector because the regular 2-way one wouldn't reach the second card (I think it was 1 slot too short).
> 
> The slot's you're supposed to be installing in are the ones marked 1 and 4 in this picture:
> (so in other words, there's 3 slots in between cards)
> 
> 
> Does EK have a terminal to connect GPU's in this layout?
> I can't imagine I'm the only person dealing with this issue...
> 
> 
> 
> @BazG had the same issue on his log http://www.overclock.net/t/1535714/build-log-shockwave-caselabs-s8-with-pedestal-x99-asus-rampage-i7-watercooled/720#post_24162621
Click to expand...

My Crosshair IV Formula is the same. 1st and 3rd. But I will be running 1st and 2nd. It's not like it makes that big a difference in x8 v. x16. At least in my case it don't. Two 6870s and games that don't have Crossfire support. Still may get a Triple Parallel though for the upgrade.









~Ceadder


----------



## stanneveld

Some sawing and it fit's right in my Core X1.


----------



## bfedorov11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Please let me know what they told you.


I called PPC again today. They said they opened several other ones and they all look like that. He said some look much worse. They told me they spoke to Igor through email and he stated they are supposed to look like that. They are offering me a refund, but I guess I am SOL. Is there anyway I can buy one from EK and select shipping that isn't $30? Nvm of course they're out of stock.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Please let me know what they told you.
> 
> 
> 
> I called PPC again today. They said they opened several other ones and they all look like that. He said some look much worse. They told me they spoke to Igor through email and he stated they are supposed to look like that. They are offering me a refund, but I guess I am SOL. Is there anyway I can buy one from EK and select shipping that isn't $30? Nvm of course they're out of stock.
Click to expand...

Hmmmm, maybe some polish would shine it up?

Of course I wouldn't suggest doing this until getting an official okie doke from both EK and PPCs. But from what I remember of that pic, it looked dull and could possibly use a polishing with some Autosol or NvrDull. Neither of those hurt plating. I use NvrDull and it removes the tarnish off my copper block and leaves it so smexy shiny.









~Ceadder


----------



## EthanKing

@stanneveld what fans are they?

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> @stanneveld what fans are they?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


White EK vardars.


----------



## EthanKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> @stanneveld what fans are they?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> White EK vardars.
Click to expand...

I neeeed







retail or painted?

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## Ceadderman

Retail.










~Ceadder


----------



## EthanKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Retail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks. Just seen that on their site before you posted but didnt want to double post. Really making me rethink my next color scheme now









Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## Kimir

stanneveld one are not Vardars, open the image in a new tab at full res, they are Silverstone.

Vardar look like that:


----------



## Anateus

Oh, my bad then. Didnt see the sticker on my mobile


----------



## funfordcobra

So I'm using the Asus deluxe x99. Using PCIE slots 1st for the gpu, space, then the 3rd for the gpu . This Bridge would work with 2 g1/4 plugs and allow the space still?

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-bridge-dual-serial-csq

In actuality, it's the 1st and 4th slot but asus spaces the 1st 4 slots closer than any board I've seen.. Its the same as 1st and 3rd on any other board.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> So I'm using the Asus deluxe x99. Using PCIE slots 1st for the gpu, space, then the 3rd for the gpu . This Bridge would work with 2 g1/4 plugs and allow the space still?
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-bridge-dual-serial-csq
> 
> In actuality, it's the 1st and 4th slot but asus spaces the 1st 4 slots closer than any board I've seen.. Its the same as 1st and 3rd on any other board.


The PCIe spacing is a universal thing. Every motherboards of any brand are spaced the same. Maybe some manufacturers will name them differently but the spacing doesn't change. Even when some boards have an empty space where a PCIe connector could be, it has to be counted has a space when choosing a GPU bridge.


----------



## funfordcobra

It looks like I'll just use plugs and barbs with tubes on the full GPU blocks to link them. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Party time excellent. I got my four EK nickel CSQ Full cover Titan X blocks and four nickel back plates for my reference Asus 980Tis.

The nickel back plates are quite the sight. Not as bling bling as if they were chrome or something, but with the machine swirls on the top (of which you can only see about 120 degrees of a single arc on) and the reflective nature of the nickel it gave some cool effects like I was playing with a photo editor.

I also got both of my r9 295x2 back plates in. I had found enough screws of proper length to fix the stock back plates with the water blocks.


----------



## funfordcobra

Will stock evga backplates fit with full titan x waterblock? I'm using them for 980tis.


----------



## sinnedone

EKWB!

Why you have so many logos in mah build!


----------



## Dagamus NM

So what is up with the new packaging? I can see it being easier for people pulling stock to ship with less errors but I have been fond of the orange and white.


----------



## stanneveld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> White EK vardars.


Hmz them are not vadars 120mm fans they are a little bit bigger









Here a 120mm next to it











The Radiator is an EK-CoolStream WE 360 Dual.

Even at full speed (1200 rpm they) are pretty silent you do hear lots of airflow.
But i am gonna take it apart again the temp sensors on the in and out dont work correct.
(inline Aquacomputer) going to switch the inlet and outlet to Monsoon 45 with lightpoort and put a monsoon temp sensor's in it.
When its complete and working i think i am going to switch it all to mansoon hardline 12/16, that stuff looks so damn good.
Actualy wanted to do that but the monsoon 12/16 PETG red is not available here in the EU.


----------



## VSG

Look like Silverstone FM181 fans. Great fans for rads!


----------



## stanneveld

They are, i used them on my external MoRa3 4x180 rad.
And what i want to try to is change the 2 180mmx32mm into 4x 180mmx18mm then its all the same size but with push pull.

But sometimes i just need a breather. there is allways so mutch stuff i want to do, and eventualy takes so long that it never gets completed.
But i think more people know that feeling.

You dont want to know what this never completed (4xGTX570 folding monster costed me












If you look at the size of the motherboard, one knows enough.


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> nope,its 12/10mm


Ahh cool. Looked big to me for some reason


----------



## Anateus

I want to see 200mm rads... Come on


----------



## stanneveld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I want to see 200mm rads... Come on


Not going to happen 200mm fans are crap for rad's even 180mm are with the exception of silverstone, but that's since they are the only ones using 180mm frequently in their cases.
But one could fit a 180mm to it, my case can hold 2x200 fans but the rad is a little but bigger then the case, about 40mm or so.
The mounting holes for the 180mm fan are wider apart then then 200mm, needed to mod the case for 2x180 while it can hold 2x200 from the factory.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I want to see 200mm rads... Come on


There are some from other manufacturers already. I doubt EK's going to make one anytime soon.


----------



## szeged

havent been keeping up with WC news the past month or so

will EK be making blocks specific for the 980ti KPE or should i mod a 980 kpe to fit?


----------



## bfedorov11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> So I'm using the Asus deluxe x99. Using PCIE slots 1st for the gpu, space, then the 3rd for the gpu . This Bridge would work with 2 g1/4 plugs and allow the space still?
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-bridge-dual-serial-csq
> 
> In actuality, it's the 1st and 4th slot but asus spaces the 1st 4 slots closer than any board I've seen.. Its the same as 1st and 3rd on any other board.


The best way to tell is to place the mobo in the case and count the io plates/brackets. It gets confusing because some boards have empty slots and most count x4 slots separately.

2 way wide, card takes up two slots, one empty io panel, next card.


I need to use the top red and third red down for 16 16. 3 way has two empty brackets between cards. The third red slot is labeled 3 while the black slot is labled x4_1.


Normal 2 way would not have any spaces and would use the top two red slots. Two cards would consume 4 total slots in a row.


----------



## Reaper28

Snef you show off lol







are all these builds for clients?


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Snef you show off lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> are all these builds for clients?












@Kidam101 are more a friend who need a place to build than a client

i helped him a little bit with some idea, polish and i did the photo shoot


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> I need to use the top red and third red down for 16 16. 3 way has two empty brackets between cards. The third red slot is labeled 3 while the black slot is labled x4_1.


So you need a triple bridge and a blank for the middle space









Which block will you be using?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> havent been keeping up with WC news the past month or so
> 
> will EK be making blocks specific for the 980ti KPE or should i mod a 980 kpe to fit?


News about that should arrive within a week.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> News about that should arrive within a week.


cool ty.


----------



## funfordcobra

Hey guys, I'm in a rush to order









Does this look right? Am I missing anything? Sorry this is my first time.

Anything you would change?

http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/Screenshot 1.png.html


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm in a rush to order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does this look right? Am I missing anything? Sorry this is my first time.
> 
> Anything you would change?
> 
> http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/Screenshot 1.png.html


No vardars? You have good fans to use allready?

Edit: i would also think about backplates and a bridge for the TXs instead of tubing. I've seen too many pictrures of saggy pcbs.


----------



## Ceadderman

Agreed on the Fans but since it is his first loop, tubing over backplates is the way to go if he's working on a budget. Backplates won't matter if he doesn't have a working loop after purchase and assembly. Can always score backplates later and drain the loop to install them.









Edit: Also backplates do not guarantee lack of saggy PCBs. They aren't as sturdy as people make them out to be. Gravity is what causes sag and backplates cannot fight gravity.









~Ceadder


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Agreed on the Fans but since it is his first loop, tubing over backplates is the way to go if he's working on a budget. Backplates won't matter if he doesn't have a working loop after purchase and assembly. Can always score backplates later and drain the loop to install them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Also backplates do not guarantee lack of saggy PCBs. They aren't as sturdy as people make them out to be. Gravity is what causes sag and backplates cannot fight gravity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I feel like my 970s with backplates and the bridge are much more rigid with than without.


----------



## funfordcobra

Can I make the stock evga back plates work with just slightly longer screws?(that's what I read anyway) Ordering back plates is no prob I just thought the EVGA ones would work.
I would like to use the dead silence fans I've already have in the case. (Using them on my AIO now)They are not THE best for W/C but from what I've read they are OK. I don't mind full throttle noise.

I don't mind using a bridge, I just didn't know of one that would work and honestly didn't understand how they fit together. If I could just get hands on a set I would have no questions but I'm just looking at internet pics that aren't very specific.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Can I make the stock evga back plates work with just slightly longer screws?(that's what I read anyway) Ordering back plates is no prob I just thought the EVGA ones would work.
> I would like to use the dead silence fans I've already have in the case. They are not the best for W/C but from what I've read they are OK. I don't mind full throttle noise.


Should be fine with the stock backplates. They won't stop saggy PCB any more than the EK backplates. They will help keep the PCB flat and coupled with the Bridge should solidify the whole SLi setup. Consider looking for a support rod(cobble one of your own design together?) of some sort however. The only thing that would halt sag is a vertical SLi. Which you won't be running.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I feel like my 970s with backplates and the bridge are much more rigid with than without.


Sure but imho it's a false sense of security. The bridge should help limit sag for sure but it's not a guaranteed fix.









~Ceadder


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I used EVGA backplates with EK waterblocks. You do have to source different screws as the EVGA screws are too small diameter, and there are a couple of mounting spots fewer on the EK block than the stock backplate mounting. So it'll work after a little fiddling, looks nice and has some perforations for air.

As for connecting the GPU blocks together, a short piece of hard tube and a couple of compatible compression fittings makes it a snap.

Look at This Pic and see if that set up would suit you. I have left over tubing and fittings I could donate to the cause so you don't have to buy hard line stuff for a 4" run.


----------



## funfordcobra

what about the thermal pads on the evga backplate? Are they kinda unnecessary now since ill only be running 45-50c under load?

And sorry one more question, should I flow to the top or bottom rad first? Seems like gravity would help alittle more if I flowed to the upper rad first..


----------



## Ceadderman

Depends on what you like better actually. Once your coolant temp stabilizes it will make no difference top or bottom orientation.

Replace them/it anyway. It'll keep the backplate from coming into contact and it wouldn't hurt to have a little extra cooling.









~Ceadder


----------



## cmpxchg8b

No no don't skip the thermal pads. You still need them.









Which rad to flow to first - does not matter. Imagine water in the loop being like a wheel. It rotates with equal force in either direction.


----------



## funfordcobra

k thanks guys


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm in a rush to order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does this look right? Am I missing anything? Sorry this is my first time.
> 
> Anything you would change?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/Screenshot 1.png.html


Just to let you know:

The Primochill Advanced LRT tubing can be - IS - oversized on the OD and undersized on the ID...

It is hard to work with, compared to other brands, especially with Bitspower fittings.

In fact the last LRT tubing I got was unuseable as the OD was so large that the compression ring WOULD NOT fit on the tubing...

Measurements (done with a Starrett Digital Calipers) = OD of tubing 16.75mm (at the smallest) ID of compression ring = 16.36mm

So, the difference is .39mm, an impossible fit! this is my latest experience...

I may have gotten a bad batch of Advanced LRT... I've used LRT in the past and it worked... The LRT was 16.19mm which will fit into a 16.36mm ID compression fitting...


----------



## Reaper28

@Snef , ah ok. I've seen your builds posted everywhere was just wondering.









@JourneymanMike

Exactly, I've had a lot of problems getting my LRT tubing to work with BPS fittings half of the compression fittings are barely on or fit on an angle which worries me. I don't seem to have as big of a problem with 45' fittings but when it comes to 90's or regular compressions it's a pain in the ass which is disappointing considering I love the color of the tubing. I heard EK had a "rebranded" version of LRT tubing does anybody know if it's true or have they tried it?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Just to let you know:
> 
> The Primochill Advanced LRT tubing can be - IS - oversized on the OD and undersized on the ID...
> 
> It is hard to work with, compared to other brands, especially with Bitspower fittings.
> 
> In fact the last LRT tubing I got was unuseable as the OD was so large that the compression ring WOULD NOT fit on the tubing...
> 
> Measurements (done with a Starrett Digital Calipers) = OD of tubing 16.75mm (at the smallest) ID of compression ring = 16.36mm
> 
> So, the difference is .39mm, an impossible fit! this is my latest experience...
> 
> I may have gotten a bad batch of Advanced LRT... I've used LRT in the past and it worked... The LRT was 16.19mm which will fit into a 16.36mm ID compression fitting...


Hey Mike, was that with the clear or colored? Yours matches my experience with the clear but the white on the other hand I have no issue with


----------



## Ceadderman

So long as you dip the ends of the tubing in boiled hot water and let them sit for less than 5minutes, the LRT should be fine. Knowing this going in is helpful.









~Ceadder


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Just to let you know:
> 
> The Primochill Advanced LRT tubing can be - IS - oversized on the OD and undersized on the ID...
> 
> It is hard to work with, compared to other brands, especially with Bitspower fittings.
> 
> In fact the last LRT tubing I got was unuseable as the OD was so large that the compression ring WOULD NOT fit on the tubing...
> 
> Measurements (done with a Starrett Digital Calipers) = OD of tubing 16.75mm (at the smallest) ID of compression ring = 16.36mm
> 
> So, the difference is .39mm, an impossible fit! this is my latest experience...
> 
> I may have gotten a bad batch of Advanced LRT... I've used LRT in the past and it worked... The LRT was 16.19mm which will fit into a 16.36mm ID compression fitting...


That's good to know. I did see a video on jays 2 cents saying something similar. Will I have better success with the barbs for that exact reason? Thanks for the info.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So long as you dip the ends of the tubing in boiled hot water and let them sit for less than 5minutes, the LRT should be fine. Knowing this going in is helpful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'll remember to try this too if I have the same issue. Thanks. Anyway I ordered everything. 780 bucks! What kind of temps do you think I can expect with the two 240 rad setup? I'm running a [email protected] and my GPUs already run in the high 60s with aggressive fan profiles. They are hitting about 1450 on air and I'm hoping for a little over 1500 stable with this cooling setup and maybe a bios flash.


----------



## MadHatter5045




----------



## funfordcobra

please explain how this terminal connects waterblocks please.

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-serial-plexi

to this block:

EK-FC Titan X - Acetal: (using 980 TIs)
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-titan-x-acetal

and this to block out the 2nd pcie slot skip space. For the life of me, they do not look like they go together...

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-blank-serial

I already made my order just a second ago and may need to order these too..


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Look @ page 2:

https://shop.ekwb.com/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109869376.pdf

And this nifty video:


----------



## funfordcobra

OK awesome I get it now..

http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/FC-Titan-X_CA_fit_590webshop_1.jpg.html

This part comes off. I thought it was part of the block and was fixed... lol...

Do I have to use a terminal? Can I just plug up the few holes with g1/4/plugs and run another g1/4 barbed tube down to the next block and do the same there?

Or is it necessary to run the terminal?

Thank you again very much!

rep+ to all those that helped me!


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> OK awesome I get it now..
> 
> http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/FC-Titan-X_CA_fit_590webshop_1.jpg.html
> 
> This part comes off. I thought it was part of the block and was fixed... lol...
> 
> Do I have to use a terminal? Can I just plug up the few holes with g1/4/plugs and run another g1/4 barbed tube down to the next block and do the same there?
> 
> Or is it necessary to run the terminal?
> 
> Thank you again very much!
> 
> rep+ to all those that helped me!


You dont have to use the bridge. I only reccomended it for a little more rigidity between cards. The barbs should work just fine with the gap you have between cards.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

The blocks come with plugs.

Here's EKWB plates, serial tube, EVGA backplates all in one go:



I have some left over connectors and a short piece of hard line if you want to go with the serial tube method. It makes installation very simple.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> You dont have to use the bridge. I only reccomended it for a little more rigidity between cards. The barbs should work just fine with the gap you have between cards.


Awesome that's exactly what I wanted to hear lol. I'm already 300 over budget hahaha!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> The blocks come with plugs.
> 
> Here's EKWB plates, serial tube, EVGA backplates all in one go:
> 
> 
> 
> I have some left over connectors and a short piece of hard line if you want to go with the serial tube method. It makes installation very simple.


This is exactly the setup I'm going for. Is hardline better? I went with 3/8ID 5/8OD soft tubing because I didn't want it too rigid. Could I just use some of that? I also used all g1/4 3/8barbs.

I plan on block->barb->tube/clamps->back to barb, then to the next water block.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Yes, barbs will work fine and that's one of the easiest options to use. IMO the Koolance style is the easiest: http://koolance.com/dual-vid-connector-black-adjustable-2-3-slot-spacing but EK looks the best (by far).


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Awesome that's exactly what I wanted to hear lol. I'm already 300 over budget hahaha!
> This is exactly the setup I'm going for. Is hardline better? I went with 3/8ID 5/8OD soft tubing because I didn't want it too rigid. Could I just use some of that? I also used all g1/4 3/8barbs.


I don't know if hard line is better or not. I don't think there would be any problem using flex tubing for the inter-block connection, but rigid tube would likely make the assembly more -- rigid.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey Mike, was that with the clear or colored? Yours matches my experience with the clear but the white on the other hand I have no issue with


This was the Blood Red tubing...


----------



## EthanKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey Mike, was that with the clear or colored? Yours matches my experience with the clear but the white on the other hand I have no issue with
> 
> 
> 
> This was the Blood Red tubing...
Click to expand...

I have read the same on tge internet about the red tubing so mustn't just be a bad batch.

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## zerophase

Just two quick questions on the EK DDC dual pump.

I'm going to mount the pump vertically on a fan bracket with the unit holder. Does it matter how I orient it?

Here's the orientation I'll use:


EK mentions on their site, for the pump heatsink in addition to the thermal pad you can fill the cavities with thermal paste. I was going to use nt-h1. But, looking at the housing and pcb I can't tell what cavities EK is referring to on their site. Anyone know where to add thermal paste?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> This was the Blood Red tubing...


Once again, same as me. At least I know I'm not the only one. Apparently it's happened a lot from what I've seen.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Once again, same as me. At least I know I'm not the only one. Apparently it's happened a lot from what I've seen.


I had the same problem with the UV Orange.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Just two quick questions on the EK DDC dual pump.
> 
> I'm going to mount the pump vertically on a fan bracket with the unit holder. Does it matter how I orient it?
> 
> Here's the orientation I'll use:
> 
> 
> EK mentions on their site, for the pump heatsink in addition to the thermal pad you can fill the cavities with thermal paste. I was going to use nt-h1. But, looking at the housing and pcb I can't tell what cavities EK is referring to on their site. Anyone know where to add thermal paste?


I have the same v2 pump block and so long as it's not upside down it will work just fine. If you mount it suspended from the pumps with the block facing down you risk starving the pumps which rely on coolant for lubrication.









~Ceadder


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I have the same v2 pump block and so long as it's not upside down it will work just fine. If you mount it suspended from the pumps with the block facing down you risk starving the pumps which rely on coolant for lubrication.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Alright, so mounting it to the side of the case with the inlet higher than the outlet should be fine?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I have the same v2 pump block and so long as it's not upside down it will work just fine. If you mount it suspended from the pumps with the block facing down you risk starving the pumps which rely on coolant for lubrication.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, so mounting it to the side of the case with the inlet higher than the outlet should be fine?
Click to expand...

Yuppers.









~Ceadder


----------



## zerophase

Thought this would do better as its own post.

EK mentions on their site, for the pump heatsink in addition to the thermal pad you can fill the cavities with thermal paste. I was going to use nt-h1. But, looking at the housing and pcb I can't tell what cavities EK is referring to on their site. Anyone know where to add thermal paste?


----------



## Ceadderman

There base of them pumps before they heatsinks go on am assuming.









~Ceadder


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> There base of them pumps before they heatsinks go on am assuming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Alright, so here's the base with and without the thermal pad.



Where do you think on the pcb they're suggesting application of thermal grease?


----------



## Ceadderman

I believe that the ring is what gets there grease. But I don't know for sure. Seems to me that's how it goes anyway since PCB contact with the wrong grease is a big no no. Too easy to make a mistake and grab the wrong tube.









~Ceadder


----------



## Costas

Placing any form of thermal grease or pad in the centre ring area is a waste of time.

The centre area is simply the base of the hollowed out dome which the impeller sits in and does not generate any form of heat.

Heat is generated by the windings and also the switching mosfets which are mounted directly on the circuit board.

If you use NON-CONDUCTIVE thermal grease, the best place for this is to smear both sides of the thermal pad lightly. The application of the thermal grease will improve the efficiency of the heat transfer from the back of the circuit board to the thermal pad itself and then to the case/heatsink assembly.

The reason that the thermal grease improves the thermal transfer characteristics of the thermal pad is that the PCB and also the case/heatsink are not perfectly smooth/flat. The grease will fill any tiny spaces between the pad and its mating surfaces thereby improving its overall thermal transfer characteristics.

Also note that if you dial down the speed of these pumps... (ie. don't run them flat out for extended periods of time) then they really do not require a heatsink as they do not dissipate much heat. It is only a necessity for when you are running them at higher speeds or if you prefer the looks of the metal case etc...


----------



## stanneveld

Trust me the EK DCC housing works perfectly.
I dont use any compound on it. pad is pretty thick and hits all mosfets perfectly.
I have 2 in use with two 4500 rpm PWM liangs.
Did some res tesing with the "bitspower" stuff with their so called anti cyclone thingy.
(witch works but limits the flow like trowing a banana in your res)

Just tubes and a 240 rad, the EK DDC housing became verry hot, puting a 120 on it for some airflow and it cooled down in seconds.
I am never gonna use a DDC without my trusty EK DCC heatsinks.
Did hit 560 lieters an hour with it







(350 with the bitspower anti flow thingy)


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanneveld*
> 
> Just tubes and a 240 rad, the EK DDC housing became verry hot,


Yes, it is a characteristic of DDC's that if run at high output levels with little flow restriction they will get hot...!

Ideally they prefer a higher restriction setup which results in less heat output.


----------



## Anateus

Thinking of picking EK PETG tubing (16OD/50cm) and their saw+rubber kit for my first time hardline.
Any idea how much tubing am I going to need for CL Mercury S3? 2x rads 2x blocks. Should I grab just two pcs, or three in case I fug up something?
Also, whats the proper name for that little round thing used fot chamfering the edges?
And are there any bending kits that are worth their price? I noticed monsoon has some kind of angled blocks for 16 OD tubing, will it work with well with EK hardline?


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Thinking of picking EK PETG tubing (16OD/50cm) and their saw+rubber kit for my first time hardline.
> Any idea how much tubing am I going to need for CL Mercury S3? 2x rads 2x blocks. Should I grab just two pcs, or three in case I fug up something?
> Also, whats the proper name for that little round thing used fot chamfering the edges?
> And are there any bending kits that are worth their price? I noticed monsoon has some kind of angled blocks for 16 OD tubing, will it work with well with EK hardline?


What ever it may be, get extra! Have a little room for possible mistakes, since this is your first hard tube experience!

You may want to change or re-do you plumbing as you go...


----------



## MadHatter5045




----------



## funfordcobra

How do I get ahold of these guys besides email? I tried their phone number they provide via email but it doesn't work from the states.


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> How do I get ahold of these guys besides email? I tried their phone number they provide via email but it doesn't work from the states.


You tried with the country code? +386 for Slovenia, thought android should do it automatically. I see no reason to why it shouldnt work.


----------



## funfordcobra

38659096610?
I add 011 from dialing from the states or just with the 386 number lol.. I'm not Mr International sorry haha..


----------



## Maticb

try 059 096 610

First three are our local (inside Slovenia) numbers. Like 03 would be my city(if they are three it is the mobile provider's number). If youre calling from within you dont have to add the 0 at front, but maybe if you add 386 you have to add the 0 to. idk.

Thought yes, their offical site says this:
Tel.:+386 590 96 622 (End-user shipping)

Yeah now im confused to lol. Some people put numbers in groups of 3 and some 2. Our home number is xx-xx-xxx. Theirs is xxx-xx-xx weird, or maybe it doesnt matter.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Thinking of picking EK PETG tubing (16OD/50cm) and their saw+rubber kit for my first time hardline.
> Any idea how much tubing am I going to need for CL Mercury S3? 2x rads 2x blocks. Should I grab just two pcs, or three in case I fug up something?
> Also, whats the proper name for that little round thing used fot chamfering the edges?
> And are there any bending kits that are worth their price? I noticed monsoon has some kind of angled blocks for 16 OD tubing, will it work with well with EK hardline?


I just picked up some of EK's PETG (10/12mm) and have been enjoying it so far. Its called a "reamer" for chamfering the edges

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ppcs-acrylic-tubing-pipe-reamer.html

I've also been using a pipe cutting tool for the PETG, I could not use one with acrylic because it would crack it. Something like this for example:

https://www.ridgid.com/au/en/close-quarters-tubing-cutters

Hope this helps


----------



## funfordcobra

Gues I'll just email.. I don't want to spend 40+ bucks to call slovania from texas. A pump that was "in stock" magically is not and Id rather pick up a pump locally than be set back another 2 weeks or more..

I guess I don't have international calling and I have to get a calling card.. lol


----------



## bfedorov11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> So you need a triple bridge and a blank for the middle space
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which block will you be using?


I am using bitspower fittings and acrylic.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Thinking of picking EK PETG tubing (16OD/50cm) and their saw+rubber kit for my first time hardline.
> Any idea how much tubing am I going to need for CL Mercury S3? 2x rads 2x blocks. Should I grab just two pcs, or three in case I fug up something?
> Also, whats the proper name for that little round thing used fot chamfering the edges?
> And are there any bending kits that are worth their price? I noticed monsoon has some kind of angled blocks for 16 OD tubing, will it work with well with EK hardline?


I'm using the Monsoon Bending Kit and it work perfectly with the EK acrylic tube. It should work with the PETG too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Gues I'll just email.. I don't want to spend 40+ bucks to call slovania from texas. A pump that was "in stock" magically is not and Id rather pick up a pump locally than be set back another 2 weeks or more..
> 
> I guess I don't have international calling and I have to get a calling card.. lol


Your best solution is to open a ticket here : http://support.ekwb.com/

They will answer you on Monday though because it's almost 6pm in Slovenia now.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> I am using bitspower fittings and acrylic.


But why did you asked which bridge you would need then?????????


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Placing any form of thermal grease or pad in the centre ring area is a waste of time.
> 
> The centre area is simply the base of the hollowed out dome which the impeller sits in and does not generate any form of heat.
> 
> Heat is generated by the windings and also the switching mosfets which are mounted directly on the circuit board.
> 
> If you use NON-CONDUCTIVE thermal grease, the best place for this is to smear both sides of the thermal pad lightly. The application of the thermal grease will improve the efficiency of the heat transfer from the back of the circuit board to the thermal pad itself and then to the case/heatsink assembly.
> 
> The reason that the thermal grease improves the thermal transfer characteristics of the thermal pad is that the PCB and also the case/heatsink are not perfectly smooth/flat. The grease will fill any tiny spaces between the pad and its mating surfaces thereby improving its overall thermal transfer characteristics.
> 
> Also note that if you dial down the speed of these pumps... (ie. don't run them flat out for extended periods of time) then they really do not require a heatsink as they do not dissipate much heat. It is only a necessity for when you are running them at higher speeds or if you prefer the looks of the metal case etc...


Think I'll do that considering mines non conductive, or at least Noctua claims. I mainly just tossed it on to keep the pump heat dump down,and maybe help keep it running for 5 years.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Thinking of picking EK PETG tubing (16OD/50cm) and their saw+rubber kit for my first time hardline.
> Any idea how much tubing am I going to need for CL Mercury S3? 2x rads 2x blocks. Should I grab just two pcs, or three in case I fug up something?
> Also, whats the proper name for that little round thing used fot chamfering the edges?
> And are there any bending kits that are worth their price? I noticed monsoon has some kind of angled blocks for 16 OD tubing, will it work with well with EK hardline?


Look at this...


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Look at this...


Thanks, quite useful vid. Gonna order more then


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm getting three boxes of 3' white PETG tubing. If I can't get my runs figured out with them 2 pieces of acrylic which I have left from the initial purchase... well...









Overkill I know, but I don't want to come up short.









~Ceadder


----------



## Anateus

There should be a wordfitter here on OCN. Which would cange "Overkill" to "normal thing"


----------



## TONSCHUH

Is there an ETA for the "ASUS STRIX-GTX980TI-DC3OC-6GD5 GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB GDDR5 (90YV08J0-M0NA00)" - Full-Cover-Blocks yet ?

Will it be possible to keep the Original Backplate and Reinforcement Frame ?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Is there an ETA for the "ASUS STRIX-GTX980TI-DC3OC-6GD5 GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB GDDR5 (90YV08J0-M0NA00)" - Full-Cover-Blocks yet ?
> 
> Will it be possible to keep the Original Backplate and Reinforcement Frame ?


The block should be out soon.

As for the backplate and reinforcement brace, I would be surprised that it will be possible because of the way they are secured on the card.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The block should be out soon.
> 
> As for the backplate and reinforcement brace, I would be surprised that it will be possible because of the way they are secured on the card.


Ok, thanks for the Info !

Then I will get some Backplates as well.


----------



## Newtocooling

Has anyone put an FC Terminal on an Asus X99 Deluxe SLI GPU setup? I have this motherboard with a 5930K, and the GPU placement that the instructions and lights suggest that I use must not be a normal spacing. I purchased all three variations of the Nvidia SLI bridge, and not a single one would work with my cards spacing. There is one available PCIE slot between my two cards, but I don't think the dual terminal will work.


----------



## fast_fate

Was curious if the EK HDC fittings would hold up to a standard air leak test.

10.5 PSI pumped in, 30 minutes later still the same.
Passed with flying colors, didn't budge a mm, need not worry









2 x HDC fittings with a 4 slot length of EK-HD 10/12mm tube in between.
The tube inserted with just a dunk in water - not silicone grease.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Has anyone put an FC Terminal on an Asus X99 Deluxe SLI GPU setup? I have this motherboard with a 5930K, and the GPU placement that the instructions and lights suggest that I use must not be a normal spacing. I purchased all three variations of the Nvidia SLI bridge, and not a single one would work with my cards spacing. There is one available PCIE slot between my two cards, but I don't think the dual terminal will work.


Hi Drew,

Your cards in a dual GPU setup with a 40 lanes CPU must be connected on the PCIEX16_1 and PCIEX16_3 slots meaning that you will have 1 PCIEX4 and 1 PCIEX16 between your 2 cards.

The Terminal Bridge that you need is the EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel 3-Slot. Of course the same bridge is available in serial if you prefer serial over parallel. And is also available in plexi (parallel and serial).

As for the Nvidia SLI connector, the "2-Way Spaced SLI Bridge" should work.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Was curious if the EK HDC fittings would hold up to a standard air leak test.
> 
> 10.5 PSI pumped in, 30 minutes later still the same.
> Passed with flying colors, didn't budge a mm, need not worry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 x HDC fittings with a 4 slot length of EK-HD 10/12mm tube in between.
> The tube inserted with just a dunk in water - not silicone grease.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome


----------



## Burt Macklin

Is anyone here using EK coolant?
Any issues whatsoever?
I got clear PETG tubing (for my first WC build), but still deciding whether to go with UV Blue or some pastel version.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Burt Macklin*
> 
> Is anyone here using EK coolant?
> Any issues whatsoever?
> I got clear PETG tubing (for my first WC build), but still deciding whether to go with UV Blue or some pastel version.


I have the Ek Pastel White in my 750D. It has lasted great for a year. Good temps.

Need to drain though now. Kinda turning a tad blue....

TCO


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi Drew,
> 
> Your cards in a dual GPU setup with a 40 lanes CPU must be connected on the PCIEX16_1 and PCIEX16_3 slots meaning that you will have 1 PCIEX4 and 1 PCIEX16 between your 2 cards.
> 
> The Terminal Bridge that you need is the EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel 3-Slot. Of course the same bridge is available in serial if you prefer serial over parallel. And is also available in plexi (parallel and serial).
> 
> As for the Nvidia SLI connector, the "2-Way Spaced SLI Bridge" should work.


Thanks Luc

I will check my GPU placement when I get home tonight. I thought I put the cards where the LED indicator lights had suggested, I hope I don't have them in the wrong slots.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Burt Macklin*
> 
> Is anyone here using EK coolant?
> Any issues whatsoever?
> I got clear PETG tubing (for my first WC build), but still deciding whether to go with UV Blue or some pastel version.


No problems here, used EVO clear and currently using EVO blue.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Thanks Luc
> 
> I will check my GPU placement when I get home tonight. I thought I put the cards where the LED indicator lights had suggested, I hope I don't have them in the wrong slots.


Ok good









My infos are from the X99 Deluxe manual


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Ok good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My infos are from the X99 Deluxe manual


I did use the 2 way spaced bridge, and the three way as well (since I like the look of the thicker one better). Neither one for some reason fit, so I got the two way short version as well, and no luck either.


----------



## SteezyTN

Ordered me 3 ER vardars







now I need to wait for the 140 versions.


----------



## Burt Macklin

*@ TCO, Radnad*

Thanks !
I guess I'll give it a go then


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Has anyone put an FC Terminal on an Asus X99 Deluxe SLI GPU setup? I have this motherboard with a 5930K, and the GPU placement that the instructions and lights suggest that I use must not be a normal spacing. I purchased all three variations of the Nvidia SLI bridge, and not a single one would work with my cards spacing. There is one available PCIE slot between my two cards, but I don't think the dual terminal will work.


The NVIDIA-SLI-Bridges are different to the EVGA-SLI-Bridges.

I had to use an EVGA one for my P8Z77-V.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Burt Macklin*
> 
> Is anyone here using EK coolant?
> Any issues whatsoever?
> I got clear PETG tubing (for my first WC build), but still deciding whether to go with UV Blue or some pastel version.


I may be a bit bias here but I used the pastel blue for the first time recently and fell in love with it. Everyone knows my addiction to orange...but man this blue takes the cake.










More


http://imgur.com/6v0VE


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Burt Macklin*
> 
> Is anyone here using EK coolant?
> Any issues whatsoever?
> I got clear PETG tubing (for my first WC build), but still deciding whether to go with UV Blue or some pastel version.
> 
> 
> 
> I may be a bit bias here but I used the pastel blue for the first time recently and fell in love with it. Everyone knows my addiction to orange...but man this blue takes the cake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/6v0VE
Click to expand...

Real Purdy!


----------



## Burt Macklin

*@ derickwm*

Wow, that sure is beautiful








Pastels just got a big plus.

It's just that there are SO many options around, I'm having tough time to decide.
But then again, it's only fluid, so I can easily change it if I'm not happy.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I may be a bit bias here but I used the pastel blue for the first time recently and fell in love with it. Everyone knows my addiction to orange...but man this blue takes the cake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/6v0VE


When you're done with that case, please send it my way.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> TCO


They polished? They look so good!!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> They polished? They look so good!!


I did Polish them !

TCO


----------



## funfordcobra

So I ordered my first loop from EKWB. Was vary careful to pick parts in stock so they would arrive at the same time. I ended up spending around 800usd. To my dismay ONE part came back to me in an email saying my pump was out of stock...It may be 2-3 weeks before a new one arrives.

Mehi from EK was with me on the issue and I told him/her that the anxiety of waiting may just kill me and what my options were. I got an email as soon as I woke up saying they dont want their customers dying and my whole order is shipping this morning!

Rolled out of bed laughing and I needed that!


----------



## Nornam

Unfortunately my £200 + Fittings order should have shipped on Friday when I ordered it & paid the extra (£24.95) for next day (Sat) delivery & like you I only ever order what is in stock, So... To be honest I'm a wee bit disappointed with EK for not shipping on Friday when I ordered in good time e.t.c..

Tis the first time they have let me down to be honest & not a lot I can do about it now lol..... It won't stop me ordering from them again in the near future no doubt but hope that if next time I choose Next day & pay for it I will expect that order to go out for next day delivery







.....

Fittings should be here now tomorrow (Tuesday) but unfortunately I have to go for my Chemotherapy on Tuesdays so am hoping the order comes after I get back home...

Nam....


----------



## Willius

All orders require 1-3 Business Days processing time before shipping process. EKWB d.o.o. does not guarantee same day shipping. EKWB does not process orders during weekends. EKWB will notify customer by email when order will leave its premises with shipping courier.

Source: https://shop.ekwb.com/shipping/

(Don't want to come over like an ass, just wanted to point it out)


----------



## Roboionator

hi
Part1


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> All orders require 1-3 Business Days processing time before shipping process. EKWB d.o.o. does not guarantee same day shipping. EKWB does not process orders during weekends. EKWB will notify customer by email when order will leave its premises with shipping courier.
> 
> Source: https://shop.ekwb.com/shipping/
> 
> (Don't want to come over like an ass, just wanted to point it out)


Then I feel they shouldn't give you the option to ORDER & PAY EXTRA for NEXT DAY Delivery... Simples!!!.......

I ordered in good time on Friday & was expecting the order to be processed as I had Paid the Extra 24.95 for it to be done for Next Day as Stated when I ordered, If the option hadn't been there I would not have paid the extra







....

Nam....


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

They should just throw in a rush processing option for like $5-20.


----------



## akira749

EK outs ultra-compact 120mm CoolStream SE radiator


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Wow $80 for a 480. Can't wait to see some numbers


----------



## stanneveld

Looks like the 120mm version of my WE wonder of it smells the same as mine


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanneveld*
> 
> Looks like the 120mm version of my WE wonder of it smells the same as mine


The Coolstream PE is the 120mm version of your WE.

The SE is this:


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The block should be out soon.
> 
> As for the backplate and reinforcement brace, I would be surprised that it will be possible because of the way they are secured on the card.


I pre-ordered yesterday 2x Asus STRIX GeForce GTX 980 Ti DirectCU III GAMING STRIX-GTX980TI-DC3OC-6GD5.

Fingers-crossed that the Blocks + Backplates are not too far away.


----------



## Reaper28

Has anybody had problems using Bitspower fittings with EK products?. I've got 2 leaking stop fittings on a terminal and on my pump top, from first observation it looks like the threading isn't long enough to actually plug the water. The other fittings may have broken internal o-rings which is another issue..

Picture is of the terminal, I didn't have time to grab one of the pump as I was freaking out over the water going everywhere lol


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Has anybody had problems using Bitspower fittings with EK products?. I've got 2 leaking stop fittings on a terminal and on my pump top, from first observation it looks like the threading isn't long enough to actually plug the water. The other fittings may have broken internal o-rings which is another issue..
> 
> Picture is of the terminal, I didn't have time to grab one of the pump as I was freaking out over the water going everywhere lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The problem you have is because the port where your stop plug is on the terminal (and i'm sure it's the same issue on your pump) is a recessed port.

You will need to use the provided nickel stop plug at those places and the leak will stop.

The recessed ports are narrower than the stop plug you have and won't seal correctly


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The problem you have is because the port where your stop plug is on the terminal (and i'm sure it's the same issue on your pump) is a recessed port.
> 
> You will need to use the provided nickel stop plug at those places and the leak will stop.
> 
> The recessed ports are narrower than the stop plug you have and won't seal correctly


The ports on the pump don't seem to be recessed (it's an EK top), wouldn't the extra threading on the Bitspower stop fittings make up for the recessed portion of the port though?. I guess you can't get those plugs in black either?


----------



## Anateus

Any precautions to make when using stock motherboard waterblocks?
Namely one from MSI MPower z97. Is it made of aluminum and then coated with something? Can't find any info..


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> All the ports on the pump aren't recessed (it's an EK top), wouldn't the extra threading on the Bitspower stop fittings make up for the recessed portion of the port though?. I guess you can't get those plugs in black either?


Oups, you're right the EK top doesn't have recessed ports. I assumed you might have a pump/res combo. In this case, other than a failing o-ring I don't know what would be the problem.

The problem isn't the extra threading but simply that the o-ring of your stop plug won't do it's job in a recessed port since it won't sit in the bottom and obviously won't seal anything.

No sorry we don't have those in black.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Oups, you're right the EK top doesn't have recessed ports. I assumed you might have a pump/res combo. In this case, other than a failing o-ring I don't know what would be the problem.
> 
> The problem isn't the extra threading but simply that the o-ring of your stop plug won't do it's job in a recessed port since it won't sit in the bottom and obviously won't seal anything.
> 
> No sorry we don't have those in black.


Thanks for the help Akira. I had seen other people using stop fittings on EK terminals and figured it would still work. I switched all the o-rings on the leaking fittings hopefully that fixes the issue.

>watercooling noobie


----------



## Reaper28

I know I need a specific extender to be able to use the bottom port of my terminal as an inlet, I take it has to be a certain thread as well?


----------



## Ostrava

I recently purchased the EK Titan X waterblocks and backplates for use on 2 gtx 980 ti's, and I noticed that the instructions for the backplate direct you to place thermal pads on the GTX Titan's rear RAM blocks, but the 980 tis do not have these RAM blocks.

I installed the thermal pads on the spaces where a Titan would have the blocks, but the 980 ti's have empty gaps. Is it necessary at all to put on these thermal pads for a 980 ti? If not, will it have any negative effects?

I just want to know before I go to flip on my PC after this install.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Thanks for the help Akira. I had seen other people using stop fittings on EK terminals and figured it would still work. I switched all the o-rings on the leaking fittings hopefully that fixes the issue.
> 
> >watercooling noobie


I'm here to help whenever I can









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I know I need a specific extender to be able to use the bottom port of my terminal as an inlet, I take it has to be a certain thread as well?


No special thread here. The extender is just narrower than a normal extender so it can enter in the recessed space so the o-ring sits directly on the bottom of the port.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ostrava*
> 
> I recently purchased the EK Titan X waterblocks and backplates for use on 2 gtx 980 ti's, and I noticed that the instructions for the backplate direct you to place thermal pads on the GTX Titan's rear RAM blocks, but the 980 tis do not have these RAM blocks.
> 
> I installed the thermal pads on the spaces where a Titan would have the blocks, but the 980 ti's have empty gaps. Is it necessary at all to put on these thermal pads for a 980 ti? If not, will it have any negative effects?
> 
> I just want to know before I go to flip on my PC after this install.


It won't harm anything by putting the thermal pads in place.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ostrava*
> 
> I recently purchased the EK Titan X waterblocks and backplates for use on 2 gtx 980 ti's, and I noticed that the instructions for the backplate direct you to place thermal pads on the GTX Titan's rear RAM blocks, but the 980 tis do not have these RAM blocks.
> 
> I installed the thermal pads on the spaces where a Titan would have the blocks, but the 980 ti's have empty gaps. Is it necessary at all to put on these thermal pads for a 980 ti? If not, will it have any negative effects?
> 
> I just want to know before I go to flip on my PC after this install.


Slap the Pads









TCO


----------



## Reaper28

Hopefully this is my last question. I'm trying to connect my rad to me terminal (pic related) does anybody have an idea of how I can maybe do that?. I had some weird combo of a 90 with a 45 coming from the rad but I'm not sure if that would work or not. I want to show a bit of tubing from the rad to the terminal but it might not work that way. The Q fitting is on the smallest rotary I have, I had planned on using a 10mm which I felt was more "secure" to swivel on..


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Hopefully this is my last question. I'm trying to connect my rad to me terminal (pic related) does anybody have an idea of how I can maybe do that?. I had some weird combo of a 90 with a 45 coming from the rad but I'm not sure if that would work or not. I want to show a bit of tubing from the rad to the terminal but it might not work that way. The Q fitting is on the smallest rotary I have, I had planned on using a 10mm which I felt was more "secure" to swivel on..


Maybe a 90 rotary and have it as the same direct has the terminal. Then connect it that way and itd look a nice bend


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Hopefully this is my last question. I'm trying to connect my rad to me terminal (pic related) does anybody have an idea of how I can maybe do that?. I had some weird combo of a 90 with a 45 coming from the rad but I'm not sure if that would work or not. I want to show a bit of tubing from the rad to the terminal but it might not work that way. The Q fitting is on the smallest rotary I have, I had planned on using a 10mm which I felt was more "secure" to swivel on..


You could take the 90 degrees that it's on the bridge and put it on the Q-Fitting. And directly put a straight fitting out of the bridge to connect to the 90 that you just installed on the Q-Fitting.

Bend should be minimal


----------



## Reaper28

So you guys mean something like this? I'm not sure if the tubing will even bend that way lol



EDIT*** I might have got it, I soaked the entire tube in boiling water so I could bend it the way I needed too. The only thing I'm worried about is kinking, the tube looks like it's about to kink near the rad and I can barely move the compression rings enough to twist them down because of the bend is so tight

pic - http://i.imgur.com/0q9raON.jpg


----------



## iBruce

Question for EK akira, can I use an EK "Naked Ivy" mount with a delidded 6700K? The kit has never been used brand new in my parts box.

Also, love your new F4 Vardar ER PWM fans, they spin so sweet with an Aquaero 6, only wish the stickers arrived positioned at 12'oclock.









Otherwise, wonderful fans, I'm running mine way down at 463rpms, 40% pwr in AquaSuite, perfectly inaudible.









http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-vardar-f4-120er-2200rpm-high-performance-liquid-cooling-fan.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3404_zpsk7bgsm1m.jpg.html


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Question for EK akira, can I use an EK "Naked Ivy" mount with a delidded 6700K? The kit has never been used brand new in my parts box.
> 
> Also, love your new F4 Vardar ER PWM fans, they spin so sweet with an Aquaero 6, only wish the stickers arrived positioned at 12'oclock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise, wonderful fans, I'm running mine way down at 463rpms, 40% pwr in AquaSuite, perfectly inaudible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-vardar-f4-120er-2200rpm-high-performance-liquid-cooling-fan.html


We haven't got our Skylake CPUs yet, though we will on Monday or Tuesday I believe. @tiborrr will be able to answer this better for you.

Yes it will work, see this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1568162/will-the-ek-naked-ivy-haswell-mounting-kit-work-for-delided-skylake#post_24261954


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> So you guys mean something like this? I'm not sure if the tubing will even bend that way lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT*** I might have got it, I soaked the entire tube in boiling water so I could bend it the way I needed too. The only thing I'm worried about is kinking, the tube looks like it's about to kink near the rad and I can barely move the compression rings enough to twist them down because of the bend is so tight
> 
> pic - http://i.imgur.com/0q9raON.jpg


Oh!! I didn't realized it was so near from each other!!

Maybe try something else....put a 90 degrees facing down on the bridge, rotate the Q-Fitting a 1/4 turn so you can have a free side port facing the PSU. The free side port would actually be the current one where your drain valve is. Once rotated, you will still have a free space facing the out side of the case for your drain valve. On the free side port that faces the PSU you put another 90 degrees that faces up. Maybe this way it might work better. The tube run will be very short but might work.


----------



## funfordcobra

Jus got everything in today and have been testing the loop. Thanks EKWB!

http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/new/20150805_231809.jpg.html


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Jus got everything in today and have been testing the loop. Thanks EKWB!
> 
> http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/new/20150805_231809.jpg.html


Nice, are you using colored coolant or is that just clear with blue LEDs?


----------



## funfordcobra

Thank you. It's UV coolant blue. I haven't got around to installing the cold cathode yet.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Wow $80 for a 480. Can't wait to see some numbers


It's like this @geggeg guy is reading my mind:

http://thermalbench.com/2015/08/04/ek-coolstream-se-480-radiator/


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Jus got everything in today and have been testing the loop. Thanks EKWB!


Cool, I see you went ahead and used the EVGA backplates, too.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> It's like this @geggeg guy is reading my mind:
> 
> http://thermalbench.com/2015/08/04/ek-coolstream-se-480-radiator/


lol


----------



## NIK1

Any update on when the EK 140mm fans will be out.


----------



## Ostrava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It won't harm anything by putting the thermal pads in place.


Thanks for the quick answer, I ran everything last night and the temps were great with the EK gpu blocks, 32 and 33 C max at full load on each card.

Unfortunately, now that there are no longer any loud gpu fans, I've noticed that my top card has extremely annoying and very hard to ignore coil whine which the fans had previously drowned out









I'm not sure whether I want to go through the trouble of RMA'ing it yet, but for now I'm gonna try modifying the voltage to maybe get the whine to leave the audible frequency.

Such a shame that I spend so much time and money to build a silent cooling system only for the gpu itself to screw it up


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Any update on when the EK 140mm fans will be out.


"_should launch monday/tuesday_"
I should have some in hand tomorrow to get some info/data out before they release


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Oh!! I didn't realized it was so near from each other!!
> 
> Maybe try something else....put a 90 degrees facing down on the bridge, rotate the Q-Fitting a 1/4 turn so you can have a free side port facing the PSU. The free side port would actually be the current one where your drain valve is. Once rotated, you will still have a free space facing the out side of the case for your drain valve. On the free side port that faces the PSU you put another 90 degrees that faces up. Maybe this way it might work better. The tube run will be very short but might work.


Actually Akira your idea worked. I soaked some tubing in hot water long enough to where I could bend it to the shape I needed without kinking and it worked. The system has been bleeding/leak testing for about 14 hrs. so far and there are just some bubble in the Evo block and the res. I am worried about one fittings though from the pump outlet to the bottom rad is actually bending away from the fitting and if that does come off water will go everywhere so I might keep an eye on that or even cable tie it down for extra security. Thanks again.!

btw the EK pump is really quiet


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Actually Akira your idea worked. I soaked some tubing in hot water long enough to where I could bend it to the shape I needed without kinking and it worked. The system has been bleeding/leak testing for about 14 hrs. so far and there are just some bubble in the Evo block and the res. I am worried about one fittings though from the pump outlet to the bottom rad is actually bending away from the fitting and if that does come off water will go everywhere so I might keep an eye on that or even cable tie it down for extra security. Thanks again.!
> 
> btw the EK pump is really quiet


Give us some more pics of the rig!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Actually Akira your idea worked. I soaked some tubing in hot water long enough to where I could bend it to the shape I needed without kinking and it worked. The system has been bleeding/leak testing for about 14 hrs. so far and there are just some bubble in the Evo block and the res. I am worried about one fittings though from the pump outlet to the bottom rad is actually bending away from the fitting and if that does come off water will go everywhere so I might keep an eye on that or even cable tie it down for extra security. Thanks again.!
> 
> btw the EK pump is really quiet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Cool


----------



## King4x4

Soaking tubes in hot water always make them lean... My tube goes hard for some strange reason







(I had too







)


----------



## SteezyTN

I want my vardar 140's now


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I want my vardar 140's now


Those are going to slay everything. 140 will be the new 120, there's no stopping it.


----------



## MadHatter5045

I had a sliver of hope that the 140s would release before the all black/white 120s. Every day they aren't out I die a little inside. Please EK, I want to give you money. My wallet is ready and open. How much more dramatic do I need to be for these to release faster?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> I had a sliver of hope that the 140s would release before the all black/white 120s. Every day they aren't out I die a little inside. Please EK, I want to give you money. My wallet is ready and open. How much more dramatic do I need to be for these to release faster?


I posted on their Facebook page about the 140's on July 29th, and they said two weeks max







hopefully they stay true to that.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I posted on their Facebook page about the 140's on July 29th, and they said two weeks max
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hopefully they stay true to that.


I'm planning on picking up some F3's to replace my Noctuas tomorrow since it's the last day of PPCs' Summer discount code, it's a shame I can't pick up the 140s too. So much delayed gratification...


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> I'm planning on picking up some F3's to replace my Noctuas tomorrow since it's the last of PPCs' Summer discount code, it's a shame I can't pick up the 140s too. So much delayed gratification...


Yeah, I ordered some of the ER 120's because they are only $2 more. I picked up 3 of them for my RX360 (which I pray will fit next to my 1300G2 in the SMA8 lol). That was a $400 order. I only did it because of the 8% off. When the 140's come in stock at ppcs, I'll order those and some dust filters and extra coolant.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Give us some more pics of the rig!


Lol I created a quick build log with some pics and an album link








http://www.overclock.net/t/1568358/build-log-watercooled-phanteks-enthoo-luxe-z97-sli


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> I had a sliver of hope that the 140s would release before the all black/white 120s. Every day they aren't out I die a little inside. Please EK, I want to give you money. My wallet is ready and open. How much more dramatic do I need to be for these to release faster?
> 
> 
> 
> I posted on their Facebook page about the 140's on July 29th, and they said two weeks max
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hopefully they stay true to that.
Click to expand...

Oh that was you


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Oh that was you


Haha, yup. That was me. I'm assuming that was you who replied


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Oh that was you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, yup. That was me. I'm assuming that was you who replied
Click to expand...

Of course


----------



## tiborrr12

They will be out on Monday (Aug 10th - couple hundred pcs) with full stock on Friday (Aug 14th).


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Finally! Now with these fans out I'm sure we will see more competition in the 140mm rad segment and have the community shift that way. Just makes sense since they are quieter for the same amount of airflow and you need less which = less noise.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> They will be out on Monday (Aug 10th - couple hundred pcs) with full stock on Friday (Aug 14th).


Any info on when PPCS will get them in stock?


----------



## MIGhunter

You guys are killing me! So, I have the rig in my sig. My youngest son needs a new computer. Yeah me, I get a new one and he gets the current PC!

So, I started piecing it together. I was going to buy it all at once, worked some overtime but I bought my wife a RX8 for our 20th anniversary instead, lol.

In the long run, all I've managed to do is convince myself into full watercooled setup, lol

Here's what I have now:

Fractual Define S windowed version


SAMSUNG 850 EVO 500GB


SAPPHIRE Radeon R9 295x2

Parts that I'm ordering next weekish

EVGA 220-P2-1200-X1 80 PLUS Platinum 1200


ASRock Fatal1ty X99X Killer LGA 2011-v3


Intel Core i7-5820K


G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 series 16GB

I might go with 32gig of memory instead of 16 but I'm not sure.

I'm new to wattercooling so I'm probably just going to go with the EK supreme kit and add on the GPU block. Debating on 2 rads, on in the front and one at the top of the case. Anyway, I blame all you OC ppl ;p


----------



## Anateus

Any chance you guys could release dimensions (technical drawings) for your CE radiators? I need one for 280 to be precise, to check for some clearance issues.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Any info on when PPCS will get them in stock?


Quoted because I want to know the answer to this too.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> 
> G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 series 16GB
> 
> I might go with 32gig of memory instead of 16 but I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm new to wattercooling so I'm probably just going to go with the EK supreme kit and add on the GPU block. Debating on 2 rads, on in the front and one at the top of the case. Anyway, I blame all you OC ppl ;p


Blue RAM with a red motherboard? You putting pastel white coolant in to have the American flag colors?


----------



## Jflisk

Ek ever going to complete the Ascendency or offer a fan control computer.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Ek ever going to complete the Ascendency or offer a fan control computer.


They're waiting for the 2nd coming of Christ before they release it


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> They're waiting for the 2nd coming of Christ before they release it


Might be awhile then


----------



## Barefooter

Any news on the 980 ti Classified blocks? I know the 780 ti Classified blocks were supposed to fit, but has this been verified yet?

I really want to pick up a pair of these cards, but don't want to make the investment unless I'm sure I can get blocks for them.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Any chance you guys could release dimensions (technical drawings) for your CE radiators? I need one for 280 to be precise, to check for some clearance issues.


Tech drawings are already on the pages for the CE rads which have been released.
Picture quality is average to say the least, but they are there








The last picture on the RHS of the picture scroller


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Any news on the 980 ti Classified blocks? I know the 780 ti Classified blocks were supposed to fit, but has this been verified yet?
> 
> I really want to pick up a pair of these cards, but don't want to make the investment unless I'm sure I can get blocks for them.


I believe so. Check coolingconfigurator.com

http://configurator.ekwb.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1748


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Tech drawings are already on the pages for the CE rads which have been released.
> Picture quality is average to say the least, but they are there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last picture on the RHS of the picture scroller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Uhhh, cant say thank you enough!!







For some weird reason those didnt show up on my mobile.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> They're waiting for the 2nd coming of Christ before they release it










good one


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> They will be out on Monday (Aug 10th - couple hundred pcs) with full stock on Friday (Aug 14th).
> 
> 
> 
> Any info on when PPCS will get them in stock?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Any info on when PPCS will get them in stock?
> 
> 
> 
> Quoted because I want to know the answer to this too.
Click to expand...

Probably a week later.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Ek ever going to complete the Ascendency or offer a fan control computer.


Yes. V2 has been in the works for a while and is actually due relatively soon.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Any news on the 980 ti Classified blocks? I know the 780 ti Classified blocks were supposed to fit, but has this been verified yet?
> 
> I really want to pick up a pair of these cards, but don't want to make the investment unless I'm sure I can get blocks for them.


We confirmed that the blocks fit and will go back into production shortly.


----------



## FrancisJF

Hmm......EK Coolsteam XL almost like Monsta Rad, just a thought.


----------



## fast_fate

CoolStream CE 280 and Vardar F3-140mm anyone








Packaging on the Vardars indicate they are ER version, but the fan itself does not indicate this








Will test these over the weekend and see what rpm range we get


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> CoolStream CE 280 and Vardar F3-140mm anyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Packaging on the Vardars indicate they are ER version, but the fan itself does not indicate this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will test these over the weekend and see what rpm range we get
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> CoolStream CE 280 and Vardar F3-140mm anyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Packaging on the Vardars indicate they are ER version, but the fan itself does not indicate this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will test these over the weekend and see what rpm range we get
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Much want


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Ek ever going to complete the Ascendency or offer a fan control computer.
> 
> 
> 
> They're waiting for the 2nd coming of Christ before they release it
Click to expand...

At which time we will definitely want to be water cooling.









~Ceadder


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> CoolStream CE 280 and Vardar F3-140mm anyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Packaging on the Vardars indicate they are ER version, but the fan itself does not indicate this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will test these over the weekend and see what rpm range we get


So that's 39,200mm² of space (280mm * 140mm) for the above radiator. Would you be able to do a comparison with the 360 radiator version of the CE (43,200mm², 360mm * 120mm) and the 120 Vardar ERs? Basically a 140 vs 120 head-to-head faceoff. I am really curious at how much less noise the 140mm variant will produce.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

@EK_tiborrr Can I use 10-12 PSI to test the XE 480 rad? I read on ThermalBench that "The nature of the floating core also means that one has to be careful since the radiator can't handle overpressure as well- not really as issue unless one is going to be use pressurized air when leak checking." I asked VSG but figured I'd ask you here too since I don't want to damage two of them the same day I get them







Thanks!


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes. V2 has been in the works for a while and is actually due relatively soon.


Really looking forward to seeing the Ascendency Controller Coming on line... There really does need to be another controller to contend with the likes of the Aquaero & This could well be it...... Gonna love trying it out in comparison for sure as I did so much on the Aquaero I'm gonna look forward to it muchly







.....

EK Really seem to be stepping up to the mark more so than ever these days with coming out with new water cooling gear for our little watercooling community, Just lately New Fans, New Rads & soon to come hopefully A NEW Controller.... What's not too like







....

Nam.....


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> So that's 39,200mm² of space (280mm * 140mm) for the above radiator. Would you be able to do a comparison with the 360 radiator version of the CE (43,200mm², 360mm * 120mm) and the 120 Vardar ERs? Basically a 140 vs 120 head-to-head faceoff. I am really curious at how much less noise the 140mm variant will produce.


The CE 280mm is about to get restriction tested.
Later in the day thermal testing on it will begin.
I'll be using these Vardar F3-140 (ER or not ??) fans as the default fans for all the 140.x rads being tested.

Sorry, I won't be going back and re-testing rad thermal performance with different fans.
GT's were, and will continue to be my default fans for 120.x rad testing.

Maybe one week if the chamber is ever not being utilized - highly unlikely any time soon


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> @EK_tiborrr Can I use 10-12 PSI to test the XE 480 rad? I read on ThermalBench that "The nature of the floating core also means that one has to be careful since the radiator can't handle overpressure as well- not really as issue unless one is going to be use pressurized air when leak checking." I asked VSG but figured I'd ask you here too since I don't want to damage two of them the same day I get them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Already replied to your PM, but essentially yes. Try to keep to 10 PSI to be safe if that 1 bar is a hard limit. It should be plenty enough to detect leaks anyway.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Already replied to your PM, but essentially yes. Try to keep to 10 PSI to be safe if that 1 bar is a hard limit. It should be plenty enough to detect leaks anyway.


Thanks. I'll be extra careful now as I usually just pump up then release to about 10. Will make sure not to do that and get around 10 without going over by a lot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The CE 280mm is about to get restriction tested.
> Later in the day thermal testing on it will begin.
> I'll be using these Vardar F3-140 (ER or not ??) fans as the default fans for all the 140.x rads being tested.
> 
> Sorry, I won't be going back and re-testing rad thermal performance with different fans.
> GT's were, and will continue to be my default fans for 120.x rad testing.
> 
> Maybe one week if the chamber is ever not being utilized - highly unlikely any time soon


Ahh OK. Did you test the fans yet yourself?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I'll be extra careful now as I usually just pump up then release to about 10. Will make sure not to do that and get around 10 without going over by a lot.
> 
> 
> Ahh OK. Did you test the fans yet yourself?


Not Yet,
Once the CE 280mm is in the Thermal Chamber I will move onto the fans.
Will check the PWM Response and RPM, Sound Levels and Wind Speed/CFM when fitted on a rad (CE140mm) and standing alone.

I was hoping to have 140mm Vardar results in and write up ready prior to release, BUT that is looking unlikely at this stage.
There was a 1 week delay in me receiving the samples - given that I just got them today, a couple of days for all the testing probably is not enough








Will have results up ASAP


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Blue RAM with a red motherboard? You putting pastel white coolant in to have the American flag colors?


no, lol. The memory is all the same just different colors. I'll grab either Black or Red after I get the MB and decide which way I'm going.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## zerophase

When I install Indigo xtreme with the EK cpu block is it fine to leak test for 24 hours, before flipping the system on its side to do the burn in?


----------



## Ceadderman

You should be fine. Leak test should always be done with system powered down. If you did it with your system powered up it would be bad juju if you have a leak. And leak test should always come before burn in of TIM.









~Ceadder


----------



## Anateus

Is it okay to use top port on ddc/d5 combo as inlet? Or should I change buy the multiport and swap res tops?

Also, should I use this:
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm

?


----------



## Reaper28

I'm still trying to bleed my loop I've gotten most of the bottom clear of bubbles but the CPU block and tube leading to the res is still full of bubbles as well as the res. Would leaving a port open on the res help the air escape or be making it worse?. I've been doing everything, tilting/tipping the case, on/off pump even changing the speeds which doesn't do too much


----------



## Anateus

Either add some dish soap (wont do anything but help air escape), or leave the top open for some time.


----------



## longroadtrip

The monsterITX reboot is finally taking shape. All W/C is EK. The pump will sit in the wall that divides the SSD and main compartment.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Is it okay to use top port on ddc/d5 combo as inlet? Or should I change buy the multiport and swap res tops?
> 
> Also, should I use this:
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm
> 
> ?


If you use the top port of your pump/res combo as an inlet, how will you be able to fill your loop?

The internal tube you linked is only usable with a multiport. And I recommend the use of it on a multiport









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I'm still trying to bleed my loop I've gotten most of the bottom clear of bubbles but the CPU block and tube leading to the res is still full of bubbles as well as the res. Would leaving a port open on the res help the air escape or be making it worse?. I've been doing everything, tilting/tipping the case, on/off pump even changing the speeds which doesn't do too much


Yes you can open a top on the res. Just don't tilt the case at the same time


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> If you use the top port of your pump/res combo as an inlet, how will you be able to fill your loop?
> 
> The internal tube you linked is only usable with a multiport. And I recommend the use of it on a multiport
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you can open a top on the res. Just don't tilt the case at the same time


I was thinking about putting a T fitting on the radiator outlet. One end would go to the case top and act as a fillport, other end would go to the res top. Although it might be hard to bleed








Might just ditch the res top inlet idea.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> CoolStream CE 280 and Vardar F3-140mm anyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Packaging on the Vardars indicate they are ER version, but the fan itself does not indicate this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will test these over the weekend and see what rpm range we get
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ohhh man, those are gorgeous.


----------



## snef

took some pics to show you the " 2 personality " idea
what do you think?

just love the coolant in all EK Block


----------



## longroadtrip

Beautiful work snef. I think of all your builds, this is now my favorite!


----------



## Archea47

Masterwork again from mister Snef is what I think. Gorgeous system sir

But really, no motherboard blocks?







I know it might break symmetry or add clutter but they have a lot more utility (_overclock_.net) than the RAM coolers

BTW I love it


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> took some pics to show you the " 2 personality " idea
> what do you think?
> 
> just love the coolant in all EK Block
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Fantastic!


----------



## zerophase

Anyone know the correct orientation for Indigo xtreme on the 2011-3 socket? The pictures on that step of the compound install from EK contradict each other. Does the thick part of the tim go on the left or right side with forward being the direction the clip opens from?


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Anyone know the correct orientation for Indigo xtreme on the 2011-3 socket? The pictures on that step of the compound install from EK contradict each other. Does the thick part of the tim go on the left or right side with forward being the direction the clip opens from?






Video from Stren at xtreme rigs.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Video from Stren at xtreme rigs.


The 2011-3 version has a different orientation from the other sockets. The thick part of the tim either goes on the left or right side of the socket. They just don't have the best picture of the socket on the instructions. I think the right side is correct, but just don't want to waste an install till I'm sure.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> The 2011-3 version has a different orientation from the other sockets. The thick part of the tim either goes on the left or right side of the socket. They just don't have the best picture of the socket on the instructions. I think the right side is correct, but just don't want to waste an install till I'm sure.


Sorry about that, you are right. The website claims you can't use the 2011-3 for 2011. Unfortunately I don't know more about this tim.

I'd follow the instructions , https://shop.ekwb.com/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046998460.pdf , they show steps on how to apply. Step 2.7 will show you proper orientation. Hopefully someone who's installed this tim on the 2011-3 socket can confirm. GL!


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes you can open a top on the res. Just don't tilt the case at the same time


I already learned that from when my filport overflowed lol. I might leave the system on for a few days and see if the rest of the bubbles escape.

EDIT**
Has anybody else tried using dish soap?


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes you can open a top on the res. Just don't tilt the case at the same time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I already learned that from when my filport overflowed lol. I might leave the system on for a few days and see if the rest of the bubbles escape.
> 
> EDIT**
> *Has anybody else tried using dish soap?*
Click to expand...

Yes, I wouldn't do it again though...


----------



## Reaper28

@JourneymanMik lol yeah I'm a little skeptical about trying it. These are the only real bubbles left in the system. I've been tipping the case and shaking it for the last 20-30 minutes and aside from a few random small bubbles coming from the 360 up top everything else seems to be clear. Should I be concerned about the bubbles that are left? or just consider it bleed and let the rest work their way out eventually with the port left open on the res for them to escape

http://i.imgur.com/KmQBBWB.jpg


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> @JourneymanMik lol yeah I'm a little skeptical about trying it. These are the only real bubbles left in the system. I've been tipping the case and shaking it for the last 20-30 minutes and aside from a few random small bubbles coming from the 360 up top everything else seems to be clear. Should I be concerned about the bubbles that are left? or just consider it bleed and let the rest work their way out eventually with the port left open on the res for them to escape
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/KmQBBWB.jpg
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those tiny bubbles will eventually find there way out in the res. You can even close your fill port if it's the only bubbles your have left


----------



## akira749

I just finished my Northern Lights build!

X99 / Dual Titan X / Phanteks Enthoo Luxe (modded to accept the rads setup) / 420mm on top / 360mm in front











More pictures in the build log : Northern Lights (Phanteks Enthoo Luxe)


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

That makes me think, EK should sell RGB SLI bridges that you can color customize

Sick build though, looks great


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I just finished my Northern Lights build!
> 
> X99 / Dual Titan X / Phanteks Enthoo Luxe (modded to accept the rads setup) / 420mm on top / 360mm in front
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pictures in the build log : Northern Lights (Phanteks Enthoo Luxe)


Nicely done Akira! For some reason it really reminds me of Leonardo from the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles lol


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> @JourneymanMik lol yeah I'm a little skeptical about trying it. These are the only real bubbles left in the system. I've been tipping the case and shaking it for the last 20-30 minutes and aside from a few random small bubbles coming from the 360 up top everything else seems to be clear. Should I be concerned about the bubbles that are left? or just consider it bleed and let the rest work their way out eventually with the port left open on the res for them to escape
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/KmQBBWB.jpg


What does it sound like? Any abnormal pump noise?

If not you'll be OK....


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> That makes me think, EK should sell RGB SLI bridges that you can color customize
> 
> Sick build though, looks great


Thanks!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Nicely done Akira! For some reason it really reminds me of Leonardo from the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles lol


lollll I can see a bit of Leonardo in it now that you mention it

Thanks!


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> @JourneymanMik lol yeah I'm a little skeptical about trying it. These are the only real bubbles left in the system. I've been tipping the case and shaking it for the last 20-30 minutes and aside from a few random small bubbles coming from the 360 up top everything else seems to be clear. Should I be concerned about the bubbles that are left? or just consider it bleed and let the rest work their way out eventually with the port left open on the res for them to escape
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/KmQBBWB.jpg


I made a long funnel from a 2ft piece of flex tube, a compression fitting and a small funnel. Screw it into the fill port and you can flip the case around any which way and never get a spill from the open fill port.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/hlJ2ZY54j


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> @JourneymanMik lol yeah I'm a little skeptical about trying it. These are the only real bubbles left in the system. I've been tipping the case and shaking it for the last 20-30 minutes and aside from a few random small bubbles coming from the 360 up top everything else seems to be clear. Should I be concerned about the bubbles that are left? or just consider it bleed and let the rest work their way out eventually with the port left open on the res for them to escape
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/KmQBBWB.jpg
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a long funnel from a 2ft piece of flex tube, a compression fitting and a small funnel. Screw it into the fill port and you can flip the case around any which way and never get a spill from the open fill port.
Click to expand...

I did the same thing. But then my wife jacked my funnel to put AFreeze in the car instead of letting me do.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/hlJ2ZY54j


That EVO top looks sharp.









~Ceadder


----------



## szeged

i wanna get one of the full nickel blocks but $100 just for a top upgrade








pls.


----------



## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

my pc cooled by EK Waterblocks


----------



## zerophase

Does the EK-XTOP Dual DDC XRES Upgrade Link work with a single pump housing. Ended up having to split the pumps into seperate housings to fit them in my case. I also don't see a top marketed on EK's site for single pump to res.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i wanna get one of the full nickel blocks but $100 just for a top upgrade
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pls.


Oh damn!
I got lucky, got my Supremacy EVO Full nickel on discount for the price of the Supremcay EVO Acetal+Nickel (68€, now back at 85€), woot!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Does the EK-XTOP Dual DDC XRES Upgrade Link work with a single pump housing. Ended up having to split the pumps into seperate housings to fit them in my case. I also don't see a top marketed on EK's site for single pump to res.


No it won't work with a single pump top because the upgrade link screws on the top of the dual ddc top and we don't have any single ddc top that you can screw it on top.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Is it okay to use top port on ddc/d5 combo as inlet? Or should I change buy the multiport and swap res tops?
> 
> Also, should I use this:
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm
> 
> ?
> 
> 
> 
> If you use the top port of your pump/res combo as an inlet, how will you be able to fill your loop?
> 
> The internal tube you linked is only usable with a multiport. And I recommend the use of it on a multiport
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I'm still trying to bleed my loop I've gotten most of the bottom clear of bubbles but the CPU block and tube leading to the res is still full of bubbles as well as the res. Would leaving a port open on the res help the air escape or be making it worse?. I've been doing everything, tilting/tipping the case, on/off pump even changing the speeds which doesn't do too much
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes you can open a top on the res. Just don't tilt the case at the same time
Click to expand...

and then there is this

http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/reservoirs/reservoir-accessories/fillport/7678/aquacomputer-fillport-with-deaeration-manual-and-filling-bottle?c=558


----------



## Biggums

Hey guys, new here.
Got myself an used Supremacy Elite Edition for 45€ from Ebay. Didn't get much love from the previous owner though:
(Excuse my crappy camera)
 

After some cleaning:
 


Not as shiny as a new one but I'm satisfied. And man, that thing is heavy.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggums*
> 
> Hey guys, new here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Got myself an used Supremacy Elite Edition for 45€ from Ebay. Didn't get much love from the previous owner though:
> (Excuse my crappy camera)
> 
> 
> After some cleaning:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not as shiny as a new one but I'm satisfied. And man, that thing is heavy.


Excellent Work!

TCO


----------



## MadHatter5045

Vardar 140s are up: http://site.ekwb.com/news/615/19/Long-awaited-Vardar-140mm-fans-are-finally-here/

Just bought four F3's


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Nice. Is 1600 RPM @ 140mm around the same as 1850 RPM @ 120mm?


----------



## Radnad

Finally!!


----------



## akira749

Long awaited Vardar 140mm fans are finally here!


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Nice. Is 1600 RPM @ 140mm around the same as 1850 RPM @ 120mm?


A very good question that I'm sure others can answer better.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

From the ES 140 Vardar ER:



1600 RPM is ~410 FPM

From the 120 Vardar ER:



1850 RPM is ~325 FPM

Edit:

410 FPM for the Vardar 140 ER is ~45 dB



325 FPM for the Vardar 120 ER is ~49 dB



So assuming that the 1850 RPM 120mm and 1600 RPM 140mm perform similarly to the ER models in those two reviews, that would mean 5 less dB with the 140mm version @ max speed. Less noisy and moves 25% more air, pretty legit.

*Pictures taken from ThermalBench.com


----------



## Anateus

And they are alrady nearly out of stock..


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> And they are alrady nearly out of stock..


Yeah it said that when I bought mine. Good luck to everyone looking to buy early!


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggums*
> 
> Hey guys, new here.
> Got myself an used Supremacy Elite Edition for 45€ from Ebay. Didn't get much love from the previous owner though:
> (Excuse my crappy camera)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some cleaning:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not as shiny as a new one but I'm satisfied. And man, that thing is heavy.


Welcome to OCN!

That's some real nice clean up work!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> From the ES 140 Vardar ER:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1600 RPM is ~410 FPM
> 
> From the 120 Vardar ER:
> 
> 
> 
> 1850 RPM is ~325 FPM
> 
> Edit:
> 
> 410 FPM for the Vardar 140 ER is ~45 dB
> 
> 
> 
> 325 FPM for the Vardar 120 ER is ~49 dB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So assuming that the 1850 RPM 120mm and 1600 RPM 140mm perform similarly to the ER models in those two reviews, that would mean 5 less dB with the 140mm version @ max speed. Less noisy and moves 25% more air, pretty legit.
> 
> *Pictures taken from ThermalBench.com


You can't directly compare those two fans, as they are on different rads. This affects airflow through the radiator as well as noise signature. But yes, generally the 140mm fan will blow more air at the same RPM compared to a 120mm fan, and have more airflow noise also. Also note that the 140mm fan tested out is a single preproduction model, so I am eager to see if the retail versions I have here will perform similarly.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> From the ES 140 Vardar ER:
> 
> 
> 
> 1600 RPM is ~410 FPM
> 
> From the 120 Vardar ER:
> 
> 
> 
> 1850 RPM is ~325 FPM
> 
> Edit:
> 
> 410 FPM for the Vardar 140 ER is ~45 dB
> 
> 
> 
> 325 FPM for the Vardar 120 ER is ~49 dB
> 
> 
> 
> So assuming that the 1850 RPM 120mm and 1600 RPM 140mm perform similarly to the ER models in those two reviews, that would mean 5 less dB with the 140mm version @ max speed. Less noisy and moves 25% more air, pretty legit.
> 
> *Pictures taken from ThermalBench.com


Looking at the charts, I'd be tempted to buy the Swiftech's...


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You can't directly compare those two fans, as they are on different rads. This affects airflow through the radiator as well as noise signature. But yes, generally the 140mm fan will blow more air at the same RPM compared to a 120mm fan, and have more airflow noise also. Also note that the 140mm fan tested out is a single preproduction model, so I am eager to see if the retail versions I have here will perform similarly.


Would there be a large difference? Like if you tried testing a 120 Vardar on the larger rad do you think the numbers would be close to what they are on their native sized rad?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Would there be a large difference? Like if you tried testing a 120 Vardar on the larger rad do you think the numbers would be close to what they are on their native sized rad?


The 140mm rad I am using has less restriction to airflow than the 120mm rad I am using, so it has some contribution on the 140mm fan blowing more air also. Since I am measuring linear airflow, then yeah the 120mm fan on an adapter will blow more air through that 140mm rad also. Note that there are other factors here like that massive hub on these 140mm fans that may very well benefit from a shroud.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The 140mm rad I am using has less restriction to airflow than the 120mm rad I am using, so it has some contribution on the 140mm fan blowing more air also. Since I am measuring linear airflow, then yeah the 120mm fan on an adapter will blow more air through that 140mm rad also. Note that there are other factors here like that massive hub on these 140mm fans that may very well benefit from a shroud.


Makes sense.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You can't directly compare those two fans, as they are on different rads. This affects airflow through the radiator as well as noise signature. But yes, generally the 140mm fan will blow more air at the same RPM compared to a 120mm fan, and have more airflow noise also. Also note that the 140mm fan tested out is a single preproduction model, so I am eager to see if the retail versions I have here will perform similarly.


Do you have an approximate idea as to when you'll have results up? Also, will you have the ff4 as well?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Do you have an approximate idea as to when you'll have results up? Also, will you have the ff4 as well?


I have one of each fan here, but only one of me









Just done measuring F1-140 and taking pics, so will try to get that out soon.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well Vsg, get on it then.









Do me a favor and test the 140 for Case mounting. I have to replace my 140 Exhaust fan out to match the 120s' in my build since I am going to be doing Vardars. I'd rather order the 140 in the same cart rather than wasting shipping to get it separately.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

What do you mean by testing for case mounting? It comes with the usual 4 self tapping screws so it will fit any standard 140mm fan location.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Think he means not on a radiator. Like how some of the fans you review aren't lumped into the radiator fans group and I guess are the chassis/airflow ones.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> *Think he means not on a radiator.* Like how some of the fans you review aren't lumped into the radiator fans group and I guess are the chassis/airflow ones.


This...









~Ceadder


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have one of each fan here, but only one of me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just done measuring F1-140 and taking pics, so will try to get that out soon.


Either way, good to know that results will be posted at some point. Now to just decide between going for a MO-RA or separate EK CE rads... ^_^


----------



## MadHatter5045

Looks like the F3 ER's are now out of stock. That didn't take long


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I made a long funnel from a 2ft piece of flex tube, a compression fitting and a small funnel. Screw it into the fill port and you can flip the case around any which way and never get a spill from the open fill port.


I'm using one of the open ports on the top of my res as a fillport, I'm just waiting for a plug for it. So far it's overflowed twice lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> What does it sound like? Any abnormal pump noise?
> 
> If not you'll be OK....


Everything sounds ok, just occasional sounds of bubbles being pushed into the res from the CPU block


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Think he means not on a radiator. Like how some of the fans you review aren't lumped into the radiator fans group and I guess are the chassis/airflow ones.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ah ok. Well all the fans I have tested so far were on rads, even some that weren't necessarily static pressure optimized like the Phobya 180mm PWM fans. A few little birds told me there are some upcoming airflow optimized fans coming in from multiple companies soon, so I can see if I can do a small free flow test for some of the airflow optimized fans and throw in some static pressure optimized ones as a reference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Looks like the F3 ER's are now out of stock. That didn't take long


That's the best overall fan from these 4 in my opinion so it's not a surprise.


----------



## funfordcobra

How do I get one of those waterblock gaskets? There was only 1 15x1 with my blank there's supposed to be two. It's a 980ti acetal full vga block. I can't find anything about it. It's 15x1mm


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Naked Ivy doesn't work with Skylake?
Quote:


> The EK naked IVY kit does NOT work for me with Skylake.... Tried with 2 motherboards, fails to boot with LED on motherboard giving CPU initialization error.
> 
> Boots perfectly if just placing IHS back on...
> 
> The PCB is thinner, and the IHS is fatter to compensate. Therefore when mounting naked without the IHS compensating in height it is NOT the same as IVY/Haswell as the EK rep suggested.
> 
> Tried with both asus and msi z170 motherboard. No post until putting IHS back on...
> 
> I believe the naked EK kit needs even shorter offsets for it to work with skylake.
> 
> Please help EK


http://www.overclock.net/t/1568357/skylake-delidded/60_20#post_24281339


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> How do I get one of those waterblock gaskets? There was only 1 15x1 with my blank there's supposed to be two. It's a 980ti acetal full vga block. I can't find anything about it. It's 15x1mm


You're talking about the blank you bought to put on a triple bridge when connecting only 2 GPU's with it?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Naked Ivy doesn't work with Skylake?
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1568357/skylake-delidded/60_20#post_24281339


Maybe @EK_tiborrr will be the best person to answer you


----------



## funfordcobra

Yes. I think I found some on amazon. I've tried to contact ek but they don't understand I need 1 1x15mm oring no matter how many times I tell them that The blank only came with 1 oring and not 2. I'm on my 3rd email with Igor and he keeps telling me I have enough. I do not.


----------



## hiarc

Any updates on the 980 Ti Strix blocks? Mine really want to look fancy and get all nicely dressed in clear acrylic and nickle plated copper.


----------



## axipher




----------



## szeged

any updates on that 980ti KPE block?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*


Supremacy MX I presume?









~Ceadder


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Any updates on the 980 Ti Strix blocks? Mine really want to look fancy and get all nicely dressed in clear acrylic and nickle plated copper.


Quote:


> EK Water Blocks ‏@EKWaterBlocks Aug 6
> 
> @PCFREAK4 @ASUSAU it should be out by the end of August


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supremacy MX I presume?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Just the Supremacy Evo Nickel


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Any updates on the 980 Ti Strix blocks? Mine really want to look fancy and get all nicely dressed in clear acrylic and nickle plated copper.


EK releases ASUS GTX 980 Ti Strix Full-Cover water block


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> any updates on that 980ti KPE block?


It's in progress.....no ETA


----------



## MadHatter5045

I just got the notice that my order for 140mm F3 ER's will be delayed till the 18th due to them being out of stock (even though I had my order in before they were even announced in this club). Can I get any assurance that I'll still receive them sooner than if I had just waited to order them from PPCs?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's in progress.....no ETA


so it is being made? no eta is fine with me as long as it is in the plans.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> I just got the notice that my order for 140mm F3 ER's will be delayed till the 18th due to them being out of stock (even though I had my order in before they were even announced in this club). Can I get any assurance that I'll still receive them sooner than if I had just waited to order them from PPCs?


Nope. PPCs doesn't yet have them listed. I'm all over their site for the upcoming order. I will gladly let everyone know as soon as I see them listed.









~Ceadder


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope. PPCs doesn't yet have them listed. I'm all over their site for the upcoming order. I will gladly let everyone know as soon as I see them listed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah I'm really hoping I get them soon. I just kinda feel like with the delay I may have wasted my own time and money ordering them on release instead of waiting for them to be local


----------



## Ceadderman

You will likely get them at the same time they get theirs.









~Ceadder


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases ASUS GTX 980 Ti Strix Full-Cover water block


Awesome, I am guessing PPCs should have them within a week or two they should be just in time to pick up some 140 ERs too.


----------



## DogIsGod

Here is my first water cooled build! It has an EK Res / pump combo, and a EK water block. I just have one question: My EK-XRES 140 D5 PWM is making a ticking noise that is steadly getting louder. The pump was pre installed. Is this normal? Just air in the pump? Or should I be getting an RMA? It never ran dry.

Thanks!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogIsGod*
> 
> 
> Here is my first water cooled build! It has an EK Res / pump combo, and a EK water block. I just have one question: My EK-XRES 140 D5 PWM is making a ticking noise that is steadly getting louder. The pump was pre installed. Is this normal? Just air in the pump? Or should I be getting an RMA? It never ran dry.
> 
> Thanks!


As low as the water looks in the res i would add some water and see if it goes away


----------



## DogIsGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> As low as the water looks in the res i would add some water and see if it goes away


It's actually filled up to the very top.
I did another bunch of power cycles, and it is quieter now. However, it's not gone. This leads me to suspect air bubbles. I'm using the foam anti-cyclone piece. Could this trap air?


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogIsGod*
> 
> 
> Here is my first water cooled build! It has an EK Res / pump combo, and a EK water block. I just have one question: My EK-XRES 140 D5 PWM is making a ticking noise that is steadly getting louder. The pump was pre installed. Is this normal? Just air in the pump? Or should I be getting an RMA? It never ran dry.
> 
> Thanks!


I see you have your return line coming in to the top of your res...

With such a small res tube, the return can stir up the water creating bubbles...

A 250 res tube would help... Just my personal choice, I like tall Res's

Do you have another hole on the res top that you could open?

I found that opening that, until you tilt and shake your rig so there's no more abnormal sounds, helps a lot...


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogIsGod*
> 
> 
> Here is my first water cooled build!


Congratulations!

Quick question - I see you have a newer-style alphacool radiator in .2 (assuming 120.2 aka 240). My ST30 came in the new blue but my UT60s came in the old, no blue lettering or new screws style. Is yours an XT45 or a UT60 in the front?


----------



## Kimir

Bench table loop full EK (except the QDC)

EK-SUPREMACY EVO - Full Nickel
EK-FC980 GTX Classy KPE - Nickel / Acetal
EK-CoolStream XE 360 x2
EK-XRES 140 D5 Vario (incl. pump)
EK-Vardar F4-120ER (2200rpm) White



The Vardar ER blast at full speed!








Didn't put the fan grill I wanted to as I got 1" 1/4 screw (~32mm) and needed 35mm screw to be able to add them, at least the 2mm more than the EK screw allow me to securely hold the rad in place.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

What are you doing to that poor video card, Kimir


----------



## Kimir

3Dmark, what else.








Now that it's on water, I have to see what I can get out of it, once I'm done finding stable clock on x99, I'll hammer it with 3DMark, I love 3DMark.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Bench table loop full EK (except the QDC)
> 
> EK-SUPREMACY EVO - Full Nickel
> EK-FC980 GTX Classy KPE - Nickel / Acetal
> EK-CoolStream XE 360 x2
> EK-XRES 140 D5 Vario (incl. pump)
> EK-Vardar F4-120ER (2200rpm) White
> 
> 
> 
> The Vardar ER blast at full speed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't put the fan grill I wanted to as I got 1" 1/4 screw (~32mm) and needed 35mm screw to be able to add them, at least the 2mm more than the EK screw allow me to securely hold the rad in place.


Seeing your easy3 makes me wonder if I should go easyhard or not..m. tough call. And then 3 vs xl.... First world problems eh?


----------



## Kimir

I couldn't go for the XL myself, it was too big for me, this one is nice enough for my need. With my new desk, it doesn't eat up all the space.









I've got to swap that LG monitor someday tho, when you go 1440p, you can't go back to 1080p lol, plus that Dell U2515H is looking awesome, one could still say it's not 120Hz or 144Hz... I never saw the difference anyway, still this one is OCed to 80Hz, because I can lol.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Or do what I did. easyxl + hard v 2.5 with the bundled accesories...

I probably would have just done the easyxl if I didn't buy it 2nd hand. I think it was bent a bit, I wasn't gonna trust it.

easy XL has space for everything though. 2 PSU rad+ fans drives...

Or easyxl + caselabs bench. lol I keep the easyxl in place and swap out the secondary bench to switch platforms


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Or do what I did. easyxl + hard v 2.5 with the bundled accesories...
> 
> I probably would have just done the easyxl if I didn't buy it 2nd hand. I think it was bent a bit, I wasn't gonna trust it.
> 
> easy XL has space for everything though. 2 PSU rad+ fans drives...
> 
> Or easyxl + caselabs bench. lol I keep the easyxl in place and swap out the secondary bench to switch platforms


You wouldn't happen to have any pics of this would you? Such a stand plus a variety of EK parts sounds like a good combination.


----------



## Kimir

Yeah the Hard V2.5 is the way to go if you don't need the rad space in there, like if you have a MORA and don't mind the PSU on side and for LN2, like Gunslinger setup he posted in classy thread:

I just noticed that I've got the same wooden folding table he has.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yeah the Hard V2.5 is the way to go if you don't need the rad space in there, like if you have a MORA and don't mind the PSU on side and for LN2, like Gunslinger setup he posted in classy thread:
> 
> I just noticed that I've got the same wooden folding table he has.


Man that's sexy. I'm currently debating between and easyxl/hard combination (with 2x420 CE radiators) or just going with the hard and the MO-RA 9x140 in push/pull. For just CPU, either of them would be overkill, but add in dual GPU cooling (probably thermosphere and/or the older universal blocks) for non-subzero fun..... It's not that overkill right?









No matter what it would be sexier (and arguably neater) than my current setup.


----------



## Kimir

I would have gone with 420 rad if EK vardar was available in ER white at the time of my purchase, but the 360 XE are doing fine.








The advantage you would have with the MO-RA is, if you put long enough tubing, you can put it outside of your window in winter for better temp. lol

And there is no such thing as overkill!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I would have gone with 420 rad if EK vardar was available in ER white at the time of my purchase, but the 360 XE are doing fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage you would have with the MO-RA is, if you put long enough tubing, you can put it outside of your window in winter for better temp. lol
> 
> And there is no such thing as overkill!


That's pretty much the main reason for looking at a MO-RA versus one or two 420 EK CE radiators, especially since there will be a window near where I'll (eventually) be moving my benching rig to. And man do we get some lovely winter temperatures up here in northern Alberta! Longer tubing was definitely a plan, because then I could put it right by or against an open window even in spring/summer/fall for fresh air that's cooler than in my place.


----------



## Kimir

Why not both, both is good.


Have the MO-RA with QDC so you can remove it when not needed.









On QDC subject, any new about the EK one seen on the predator, are they going to be available alone soon?


----------



## szeged

ill be grabbing an easy v3 this coming week since im tired of my bench area being spread out over 10 sq feet...i was gonna grab a MO RA and run it to a window for winter.

Kimir does the easy v3 support only 360mm rads or 420 as well? looks like only 2x 360 to me.

your set up is awesome btw. Im currently making a custom desk, might have to steal the design of yours


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Both would allow.... Wait, do you mean both as in both the dual 420 CE's ~and~ the MO-RA, both as in the EasyXL and the Hard 2.5, or both as in.... All of the above? Because if all of the above, while having somewhere to put all the extra little water cooling bits.... That's an extra $500 to add what would probably be diminishing returns, even for a benching setup.... ......Unless I went with two loops, and did the MO-RA for the graphics cards, and the dual 420's for the processor. .... ......But now we're in the $750 extra territory just to have something better (and easier/faster to set up!) than air cooling. Would definitely help me feel better about the 57kg dry ice bin idea though, since the other three weeks of the month I could just plug away with a moderately overkill dual loop water cooling setup. But then I'd definitely ~HAVE~ to add in an AquaAero 6 Pro too, or EK's solution when it comes out because... Reasons.

I will admit though that the EasyXL/Hard combination means everything's nice and tidy (if I let it be that way, lol), has somewhere to be, and would raise it that much higher off the desk........ That added height alone is worth it to me.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ill be grabbing an easy v3 this coming week since im tired of my bench area being spread out over 10 sq feet...i was gonna grab a MO RA and run it to a window for winter.
> 
> Kimir does the easy v3 support only 360mm rads or 420 as well? looks like only 2x 360 to me.
> 
> your set up is awesome btw. Im currently making a custom desk, might have to steal the design of yours


Hmm, you are right, only 360 rads, maybe 280 as well, but the fan would be offset from the holes.









Thanks, that desk is an ORDO (now owned by Haworth), bought it used for 50€.


----------



## Kimir

Just saw the announcement of the Predator (yeaha email







) and I can finally see the QDC, can we expect to see those CPC QDC (perhaps the metal one LQ4/LQ6 too) on EKWB shop sometime in the future?








I'll do anything to no have to pick koolance in the future ahah! I see that caseking has the one used on the predator.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Just saw the announcement of the Predator (yeaha email
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and I can finally see the QDC, can we expect to see those CPC QDC (perhaps the metal one LQ4/LQ6 too) on EKWB shop sometime in the future?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do anything to no have to pick koolance in the future ahah! I see that caseking has the one used on the predator.


"Sorry, the use of any liquid other than Koolancewater® voids the warranty"

Yeah, can't wait for EK QDCs too


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> "Sorry, the use of any liquid other than Koolancewater® voids the warranty"
> 
> Yeah, can't wait for EK QDCs too


Not only that, but they also ignore the fact the black QDC are crap, doesn't matter if you use koolance water or what not, they will buildup over time!
Those QDC on the predator aren't EK, but they found a manufacturer that have a wide variety of them, didn't know about those but if I knew before I took the silver Koolance QDC, I would have picked those (caseking having the barb ones, noticed only now that I can zoom on the predator pics).
See the page of the manufacturer: CPC QDC


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> so it is being made? no eta is fine with me as long as it is in the plans.


Yep









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Awesome, I am guessing PPCs should have them within a week or two they should be just in time to pick up some 140 ERs too.


Probably. It always depend on when they do their order with us









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Just saw the announcement of the Predator (yeaha email
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and I can finally see the QDC, can we expect to see those CPC QDC (perhaps the metal one LQ4/LQ6 too) on EKWB shop sometime in the future?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do anything to no have to pick koolance in the future ahah! I see that caseking has the one used on the predator.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> "Sorry, the use of any liquid other than Koolancewater® voids the warranty"
> 
> Yeah, can't wait for EK QDCs too


About the QDC's being sold separately, maybe @derickwm can answer that


----------



## NvNw

Akira, a question, i'm gonna build a full water system within a ncase m1, i'm trying to get all matching block for it, I have a Asus M6I and a EVGA 980TI with the reference board. So I'm gonna buy this parts:

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fb-asus-m6i-nickel

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-titan-x-nickel

But for the ram the only Nickel with clear plexi i can found on the shop is this:

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-ram-monarch-x2-nickel

And that one have the CSQ design, when if you look for the x4 version with clear plexi there is two, one with the CLEAR CSQ and another one with CSQ like the x2 i linked:

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-ram-monarch-x4-clean-csq-nickel

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-ram-monarch-x4-nickel-csq

I need a CLEAR CSQ version of the x2 ram block... Maybe is not listed and you guys do it? I want to have all matching blocks :3

Thanks.


----------



## iBruce

Mr. Akira,

Did you ever hear any word back from management/development about adding two more colors/materials to the X-RES lineup?

I hope they are still considering adding clear Plexi and White Acetal, would be such a fortunate aesthetic improvement over the tired black three years running without change.

Take it into committee for a vote if you have to.









Thanks man.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3585_zpsve5zubaw.jpg.html


----------



## DogIsGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Congratulations!
> 
> Quick question - I see you have a newer-style alphacool radiator in .2 (assuming 120.2 aka 240). My ST30 came in the new blue but my UT60s came in the old, no blue lettering or new screws style. Is yours an XT45 or a UT60 in the front?


Yep, it's a 280mm (2 X 140mm) UT 60.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> I see you have your return line coming in to the top of your res...
> 
> With such a small res tube, the return can stir up the water creating bubbles...
> 
> A 250 res tube would help... Just my personal choice, I like tall Res's
> 
> Do you have another hole on the res top that you could open?
> 
> I found that opening that, until you tilt and shake your rig so there's no more abnormal sounds, helps a lot...


The valve on the top is open to prvent issues with pressure. I'll tilt it around more when I get home. And yes, I really wish I could have fit a 240, but I needed to keep the 5.25" bays in the top and enough space to fit a radator in the bottom in the future, so 140 was as big as it was going to get. There are bubbles, but only a few go further than 3/4 of the res.

Performance PCs support had me drain the loop to test the pump separately, and the ticking went away when I refilled it. So that's that. Thanks!


----------



## Reaper28

My system is pretty much done, just need to install the OS and another SSD. Thanks for the help guys...you know who you are lol


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

What did you do to get the LEDs on the GPU blocks?


----------



## nzphil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> My system is pretty much done, just need to install the OS and another SSD. Thanks for the help guys...you know who you are lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking great!


----------



## Reaper28

@nzphil, Thanks!

@xxdarkreap3rxx, Me?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> Akira, a question, i'm gonna build a full water system within a ncase m1, i'm trying to get all matching block for it, I have a Asus M6I and a EVGA 980TI with the reference board. So I'm gonna buy this parts:
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fb-asus-m6i-nickel
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-titan-x-nickel
> 
> But for the ram the only Nickel with clear plexi i can found on the shop is this:
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-ram-monarch-x2-nickel
> 
> And that one have the CSQ design, when if you look for the x4 version with clear plexi there is two, one with the CLEAR CSQ and another one with CSQ like the x2 i linked:
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-ram-monarch-x4-clean-csq-nickel
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-ram-monarch-x4-nickel-csq
> 
> I need a CLEAR CSQ version of the x2 ram block... Maybe is not listed and you guys do it? I want to have all matching blocks :3
> 
> Thanks.


We did have it as a replacement top in the past but since we will change the RAM lineup very soon, we have eliminated some replacement parts in our system.

In the future we will have the X2 in clean plexi but you might have to wait a little bit for it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Mr. Akira,
> 
> Did you ever hear any word back from management/development about adding two more colors/materials to the X-RES lineup?
> 
> I hope they are still considering adding clear Plexi and White Acetal, would be such a fortunate aesthetic improvement over the tired black three years running without change.
> 
> Take it into committee for a vote if you have to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3585_zpsve5zubaw.jpg.html


Hi,

Since their will be changes soon in the pump (top, pump/res combo, etc...) family, we might have some but i can't say nothing for now sorry.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> @nzphil, Thanks!
> 
> @xxdarkreap3rxx, Me?


ya


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> ya


Not much, I installed each card individually with the LED's first which was a bit of a pain as some of the LED's would fall out as I went to install the card but once the card was in the PCI-E slot there wasn't really any room for them to fall out. Once I had them installed I mounted the terminal and that was it. I do wish I had of used a 3-Pin terminal for the LED's though, I have a total of 9! red LED's and that just added a crap load of molex cables behind the mobo tray


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Since their will be changes soon in the pump (top, pump/res combo, etc...) family, we might have some but i can't say nothing for now sorry.


Does that mean an X-RES D5 EVO is on the way? WooHoo good news all around.









Clear "Clean TOP" solid Plexi and White Acetal join the classic black.


----------



## NvNw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We did have it as a replacement top in the past but since we will change the RAM lineup very soon, we have eliminated some replacement parts in our system.
> 
> In the future we will have the X2 in clean plexi but you might have to wait a little bit for it.
> Hi,
> 
> Since their will be changes soon in the pump (top, pump/res combo, etc...) family, we might have some but i can't say nothing for now sorry.


Nice, ok, then I'll wait for it before make the order, its about 500 dollars order









Thanks for the info.


----------



## PCModderMike

EK


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK


Finally!

All dem rads


----------



## Ceadderman

Payday is next Friday. Gonna be submitting my order for three 360 PEs, two 6packs of Economies, two 4pcks of PETG, 6 Vardara and some other odds an ends including the adapter fitting for my air tester. All told over $500.









And that's about half of what I am putting in my Mod.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Does that mean an X-RES D5 EVO is on the way? WooHoo good news all around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clear "Clean TOP" solid Plexi and White Acetal join the classic black.


Don't put words in my mouth here though. I didn't said there plexi or white versions. I'm just saying that some new versions might appear but that's it


----------



## Ceadderman

DO EEEEEEET!









~Ceadder


----------



## funfordcobra

what kinda temps at what fan rpms do you get with all those rads?

I'm just using 2x 240s and hover at 40c with a cpu and 2 980Tis in the loop/ 1500rpm fans. Was wondering if it was worth dropping in another 240.


----------



## SteezyTN

I'm amazed with the Vardar 120ER's. I'm using the corsair link commander mini to control them, and at 1200 RPM they are near silent and actually quieter than my SP120's at 500-600 rpm (which are still pretty quiet even at 800 rpm). I can't wait for the 140ER's I'll be getting soon.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I'm probably the only person who is slightly unimpressed with the 120mm Vardars. I have the 1450RPM models, and they make a rather annoying sound that overwhelms the sound coming from the entire rest of the system. The ones in push/pull seem to be worse than the single sided application, makes me wonder if it's some sort of resonance caused by the P/P. Then again, the P/P Noctua set are quiet.

I'll be digging into the system directly, I'll see if I can pinpoint the souce of the noise. Maybe just one noisy example buried in there.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I'm probably the only person who is slightly unimpressed with the 120mm Vardars. I have the 1450RPM models, and they make a rather annoying sound that overwhelms the sound coming from the entire rest of the system. The ones in push/pull seem to be worse than the single sided application, makes me wonder if it's some sort of resonance caused by the P/P. Then again, the P/P Noctua set are quiet.
> 
> I'll be digging into the system directly, I'll see if I can pinpoint the souce of the noise. Maybe just one noisy example buried in there.


Noctua are so loud compared to Vardars. I think you should check each fan alone.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Noctua are so loud compared to Vardars.


Not mine.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I'm probably the only person who is slightly unimpressed with the 120mm Vardars. I have the 1450RPM models, and they make a rather annoying sound that overwhelms the sound coming from the entire rest of the system. The ones in push/pull seem to be worse than the single sided application, makes me wonder if it's some sort of resonance caused by the P/P. Then again, the P/P Noctua set are quiet.
> 
> I'll be digging into the system directly, I'll see if I can pinpoint the souce of the noise. Maybe just one noisy example buried in there.


What are you controlling them with. Maybe you voltage controlling them or PWM?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What are you controlling them with. Maybe you voltage controlling them or PWM?


PWM via powered PWM splitter.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I'm probably the only person who is slightly unimpressed with the 120mm Vardars. I have the 1450RPM models, and they make a rather annoying sound that overwhelms the sound coming from the entire rest of the system. The ones in push/pull seem to be worse than the single sided application, makes me wonder if it's some sort of resonance caused by the P/P. Then again, the P/P Noctua set are quiet.
> 
> I'll be digging into the system directly, I'll see if I can pinpoint the souce of the noise. Maybe just one noisy example buried in there.


The fin density and type on the rad will influence this resonance effect you are hearing. Try slowing them fans a bit and see if this goes away.


----------



## kwomo

Will there be white versions of the 140 Er Vardars eventually? Sorry if the question has already been asked/answered.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I'm probably the only person who is slightly unimpressed with the 120mm Vardars. I have the 1450RPM models, and they make a rather annoying sound that overwhelms the sound coming from the entire rest of the system. The ones in push/pull seem to be worse than the single sided application, makes me wonder if it's some sort of resonance caused by the P/P. Then again, the P/P Noctua set are quiet.
> 
> I'll be digging into the system directly, I'll see if I can pinpoint the souce of the noise. Maybe just one noisy example buried in there.


Try some form of gasket between the fans and the Radiator. I'don't bet my son that there is the source of your noise.

Daz, did a vid comparing 5 fans and one of them was the Black Noctua units with the rubber inserts. It made it the quietest fan of the review. He stated that the other units(which included Vardars) would likely benefit if they had the same kind of setup. I use shroud gaskets and never hear vibration whine. And up until this build I have always used Yate Loon as my cooling choice.









~Ceadder


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Yeah, but my Noctuas are the el cheapo versions without the rubber corners. The whole shebang is coming apart shortly, so it's not going to be noisy much longer.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Yeah, but my Noctuas are the el cheapo versions without the rubber corners. The whole shebang is coming apart shortly, so it's not going to be noisy much longer.


Which model are they?


----------



## kl6mk6

140 Vardars are up on PPC homepage. They're not in the search database yet. I didn't see any F3s.


----------



## Daggi

Hey
I just ordered a Rampage V Extreme and I am wondering if I need to get a new CPU block or am I good to go with my Supremacy full nickel block? And do I need some new jet plates?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hey
> I just ordered a Rampage V Extreme and I am wondering if I need to get a new CPU block or am I good to go with my Supremacy full nickel block? And do I need some new jet plates?


The jet plates supplied with the Supremacy should have one for a 2011 socket, no problem.

You will be fine (IMO) with the Suprmeacy. The Supremacy and Supremacy EVO are pretty much identical except for the J inserts ? I believe.

TCO


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The jet plates supplied with the Supremacy should have one for a 2011 socket, no problem.
> 
> You will be fine (IMO) with the Suprmeacy. The Supremacy and Supremacy EVO are pretty much identical except for the J inserts ? I believe.
> 
> TCO


OK. Thank You for the clarification


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Man, I wish EK would make a similar block for 980ti's.


----------



## mirablr

I think that EK should sell their new predator with different fan speed options and call them something like furious predator and not so furious predator


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mirablr*
> 
> I think that EK should sell their new predator with different fan speed options and call them something like furious predator and not so furious predator


Why? The fans have an operating range of 500-2200 RPM via PWM. There's no need for anything less or more.


----------



## scorpscarx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hey
> I just ordered a Rampage V Extreme and I am wondering if I need to get a new CPU block or am I good to go with my Supremacy full nickel block? And do I need some new jet plates?


I'm using mine with stock inserts and jet plate etc that the evo shipped with on x99, temps are fine, core variance is within range. I'm gonna swap them out for what the manual says is optimal for x99 on my next work though







.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scorpscarx*
> 
> I'm using mine with stock inserts and jet plate etc that the evo shipped with on x99, temps are fine, core variance is within range. I'm gonna swap them out for what the manual says is optimal for x99 on my next work though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I have been reading about the Supremacy Evo, and it looks like, for me at least that my Supremacy full nickel should be just fine with temp's. As i understand from reading form the EK site the Evo x99 is the same as Evo but comes with mounting bolts mounted, and only one jet plate just for x99. Maybe I'll get a Evo block later.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

@derickwm Did you guys update the packaging for GPU blocks?



Or did I get the wrong one


----------



## Kimir

Middle design is the newest one.


----------



## TK421

Is the predator aio pump a MCP35x type?

Would an MCP35x pump be able to push water to a cpu block, 120mm, vga block, a 480mm and back to a reservoir efficiently? Or should I look into a D5?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Is the predator aio pump a MCP35x type?
> 
> Would an MCP35x pump be able to push water to a cpu block, 120mm, vga block, a 480mm and back to a reservoir efficiently? Or should I look into a D5?


http://site.ekwb.com/news/623/19/EK-Predator-is-setting-a-new-standard-for-AIO-liquid-cooling/

It's a DDC, more than fine for the setup you mentioned.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> http://site.ekwb.com/news/623/19/EK-Predator-is-setting-a-new-standard-for-AIO-liquid-cooling/
> 
> It's a DDC, more than fine for the setup you mentioned.


so the predator is a D5 pump but with smaller top?

edit, is it this one? http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-acetal-original-csq-incl-pump-17480.html#Additional-Information

how does the performance compare to MCP35x ver 2b? -> http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35xreservoir.aspx


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> so the predator is a D5 pump but with smaller top?
> 
> edit, is it this one? http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-acetal-original-csq-incl-pump-17480.html#Additional-Information
> 
> how does the performance compare to MCP35x ver 2b? -> http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35xreservoir.aspx


I bought that Pump for my S3 Build.

Actually PPC sent me the wrong one, The One you Originally Linked with the Black top, so I just ordered the Clear CSQ Top

Here is a video of the Flow at 100%




TCO

I might have a Video of the DDC's (Switftech) I used in the SMA8

I believe Both are Sold as the 18w DDC


----------



## TK421

So with the setup of vga -> 120 -> cpu -> 480-> the EK ddc 3.2 is powerful enough?

In what situation does it warrant to buy a D5 (since it's more powerful compared to the 3.2) over the cheaper 3.2?


----------



## mrazster

I´m currently cooling my 5930K with a EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition - Intel 2011-3.
I just got aware of the EK-Supremacy EVO X99. Any reason to upgrade/change the block ?
Been trying to find an answer to what the differences are..but have yet to find any clear answer....other than the mounting mecanism.
Is there anything else? I suspect the jetplates might look a bit different.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> So with the setup of vga -> 120 -> cpu -> 480-> the EK ddc 3.2 is powerful enough?
> 
> In what situation does it warrant to buy a D5 (*since it's more powerful compared to the 3.2*) over the cheaper 3.2?


I think that might be subject to some research.... not sure if that is 100% true due to the DDC Acrylic tops (Makes pump flow better)

But the DDC will power though what you have listed.

My Loop in the SMA8 is Cpu Block, 480, 240, and Mosfet Blocks

Then I have the other DDC powering through the same amount of rads and 2 x 980 Blocks.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Highly doubt that an acrylic top will make a DDC flow better. Oh it will increase output slightly over the stock molded tops, but the stock tops would flow better due to smaller port openings vs the larger ports on a custom top. Those aren't much larger than the stock either imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrazster*
> 
> I´m currently cooling my 5930K with a EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition - Intel 2011-3.
> I just got aware of the EK-Supremacy EVO X99. Any reason to upgrade/change the block ?
> Been trying to find an answer to what the differences are..but have yet to find any clear answer....other than the mounting mecanism.
> Is there anything else? I suspect the jetplates might look a bit different.


The mounting is the only thing different, the jetplate and insert inside are one of the same combinations that you can make using what you have.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Highly doubt that an acrylic top will make a DDC flow better. *Oh it will increase output slightly over the stock molded tops,* but the stock tops would flow better due to smaller port openings vs the larger ports on a custom top. Those aren't much larger than the stock either imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I knew there was something about the diff tops that have an impact.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah. If you compare a stock top openings with the G1/4 end of a fitting you'll see that the opening is slightly smaller than that of the fitting.

Stock gives you more pressure.

Custom pushes more coolant.

Think of it like having a pressure nozzle on a garden hose.









~Ceadder


----------



## TK421

So what's the best pump that you can buy?


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> So what's the best pump that you can buy?


----------



## Ceadderman

Depends on your space and your needs. A lot of people like D5s. A lot like DDCs. It really boils down to what you want and can afford

D5 gives you more pressure and DDC gives you more headroom. For the most part MCP3.5x is a great DDC pump and D5 owners swear by Vario.

But to make the issue more complicated EK will no longer be selling pumps w/o tops and vice versa. Or something to that effect iirc.

~Ceadder


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*


This one worked very well for me.
















(no kidding, I used that kind of pump for my leak test with air.)


----------



## Ceadderman

This one is better imho. Especially if it's on your desk and it doesn't require much upper body strength.to push a little air into the line.









~Ceadder


----------



## stanneveld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Depends on your space and your needs. A lot of people like D5s. A lot like DDCs. It really boils down to what you want and can afford
> 
> D5 gives you more pressure and DDC gives you more headroom. For the most part MCP3.5x is a great DDC pump and D5 owners swear by Vario.
> 
> But to make the issue more complicated EK will no longer be selling pumps w/o tops and vice versa. Or something to that effect iirc.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah thats kinda crappy ceadder realy wanted the EK dual DDC but i got 3 Liang 3.25 PWM and 4 Koolance PMP400's dont realy need more pumps.








I have an Swiftec dual but that thing screws in with screws and not blots makes using the EK DDC heat block's a pain in the ass.
Ended up with the old EK Dual DDC top.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Depends on your space and your needs. A lot of people like D5s. A lot like DDCs. It really boils down to what you want and can afford
> 
> D5 gives you more pressure and DDC gives you more headroom. For the most part MCP3.5x is a great DDC pump and D5 owners swear by Vario.
> 
> But to make the issue more complicated EK will no longer be selling pumps w/o tops and vice versa. Or something to that effect iirc.
> 
> ~Ceadder


so

what should I buy? :v

considering that space isn't an issue...


----------



## Ceadderman

It really is up to you. I like DDCs because they'really pretty quiet, they're small and they can do the job as well as a D5. But I went DDC for the price at the time of purchase. D5s could be a tad spendy back then. Now I think things are a little more even.

I say DDC.









I got that same top that is pictured up above but I painted the access screws to color match the contrasting color of my build.









~Ceadder


----------



## mrazster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The mounting is the only thing different, the jetplate and insert inside are one of the same combinations that you can make using what you have.


OK...thnx for answer !
Do you have any idea as to how much impact that does, if any, on the temps ?


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrazster*
> 
> I´m currently cooling my 5930K with a EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition - Intel 2011-3.
> I just got aware of the EK-Supremacy EVO X99. Any reason to upgrade/change the block ?
> Been trying to find an answer to what the differences are..but have yet to find any clear answer....other than the mounting mecanism.
> Is there anything else? I suspect the jetplates might look a bit different.


I was reading about this last night.

Akira749 said in post 3 : http://www.overclock.net/t/1556514/ek-releases-new-supremacy-evo-x99/0_20

The block itself is exactly the same.

What differs is that the block only comes with the pre-installed insert and jet plate...no optional ones. And also the mounting mechanism (screws and springs) is already installed on the block bracket.

All you have to do is to put some TIM, drop the block in place and screw it.....you're done.


----------



## mrazster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I was reading about this last night.
> 
> Akira749 said in post 3 : http://www.overclock.net/t/1556514/ek-releases-new-supremacy-evo-x99/0_20
> 
> The block itself is exactly the same.
> 
> What differs is that the block only comes with the pre-installed insert and jet plate...no optional ones. And also the mounting mechanism (screws and springs) is already installed on the block bracket.
> 
> All you have to do is to put some TIM, drop the block in place and screw it.....you're done.


Ahaaa..thnx for the info and linkage...much appreciated !


----------



## eucalyptus

I have ordered a EK d5 vario 140 and it's on the way with the postservice.

But I wonder, what is the EK extension fitting for? What is the purpose? Is it really necessary to use it?

And stupid as I am I found out I need the smaller version with 100mm top so I guess I just have to buy a new tube?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrazster*
> 
> OK...thnx for answer !
> Do you have any idea as to how much impact that does, if any, on the temps ?


The different mounting? If you have no issues with the one you have, then none.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Why? The fans have an operating range of 500-2200 RPM via PWM. There's no need for anything less or more.


But but... Then it could be all fuuuuuuuuiroous!!! And everyone except benchers and those who love loud fans would be complaining about how the faster fans keep their cpu somewhat cooler but omg the noiiiise.

Actually, the idea of a furious Vardar version would be nice, but with orange sleeving. .....aka f4's have a wonderfully large range they can run at, so I can see why just the one version has been released because it works for pretty much most of the needs out there.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I have ordered a EK d5 vario 140 and it's on the way with the postservice.
> 
> But I wonder, what is the EK extension fitting for? What is the purpose? Is it really necessary to use it?
> 
> And stupid as I am I found out I need the smaller version with 100mm top so I guess I just have to buy a new tube?


You need it for the inlet port. It must be used between the pump top and for instance a compression fittings. The inlet ports are countersunk into the block so the blind plug is flush with the outside of the block.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> @derickwm Did you guys update the packaging for GPU blocks?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or did I get the wrong one


No we are changing our packaging. You're all fine. It's just that you got one older package for one of your titan x and one with the new package.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I have ordered a EK d5 vario 140 and it's on the way with the postservice.
> 
> But I wonder, what is the EK extension fitting for? What is the purpose? Is it really necessary to use it?
> 
> And stupid as I am I found out I need the smaller version with 100mm top so I guess I just have to buy a new tube?


The extender must be used in the recessed ports of the pump top.

If you need the shorter tube than yes, you only need to buy the tube (EK-RES X3 - TUBE 110 (64mm))

Cheers


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Don't put words in my mouth here though. I didn't said there plexi or white versions. I'm just saying that some new versions might appear but that's it


I would never do such a thing, wink wink nudge nudge, say no more.









.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I would never do such a thing, wink wink nudge nudge, say no more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It really is up to you. I like DDCs because they'really pretty quiet, they're small and they can do the job as well as a D5. But I went DDC for the price at the time of purchase. D5s could be a tad spendy back then. Now I think things are a little more even.
> 
> I say DDC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got that same top that is pictured up above but I painted the access screws to color match the contrasting color of my build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


So all of these are the recommended DDC 3.2 but with different accessories included with purchase?

http://www.microcenter.com/product/449286/EK-XTOP_DDC_32_PWM_High-Performance_water_cooling_pump

http://www.microcenter.com/product/449111/140_DDC_32_PWM_Reservior_including_Pump

http://www.microcenter.com/product/449285/Plexi_Original_High-Performance_water_cooling_pump <- doesn't state D5 or DDC


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> So all of these are the recommended DDC 3.2 but with different accessories included with purchase?
> 
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/449286/EK-XTOP_DDC_32_PWM_High-Performance_water_cooling_pump
> 
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/449111/140_DDC_32_PWM_Reservior_including_Pump
> 
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/449285/Plexi_Original_High-Performance_water_cooling_pump <- doesn't state D5 or DDC


The last one is a DDC


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> The last one is a DDC


difference with 3.2? just no PWM?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> difference with 3.2? just no PWM?


They are all exactly the same pump ... just in different housings. If you look at the specs it says just that.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> So all of these are the recommended DDC 3.2 but with different accessories included with purchase?
> 
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/449286/EK-XTOP_DDC_32_PWM_High-Performance_water_cooling_pump
> 
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/449111/140_DDC_32_PWM_Reservior_including_Pump
> 
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/449285/Plexi_Original_High-Performance_water_cooling_pump <- doesn't state D5 or DDC


Exactly

They are all DDC 3.2 PWM


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Exactly
> 
> They are all DDC 3.2 PWM


ok thanks


----------



## Archea47

The Vardars are piling up! 9/15 FF5 (Furious) 120s test fit in the system so far:



Cool fans EK


----------



## SteezyTN

@akira749, @derickwm, or any EK reps;

I have never dealt with a watercooling part RMA and I would like some advice. I noticed that my few day old Vardar 120ER was making a slight clicking sound that may be inaudible to some, but I can notice it and it's a little irritating. I have two of them hooked up to my radiator for the time being while I'm waiting for my Caselabs to ship. I thought maybe it was my Corsair Link Commander Mini, but it's not. Another user advised me to test it on by using the PWM CPU header on my Asus Maximus Vi Hero. Only one of them made the sound, so I'm assuming that one of them is faulty, and it isn't the Corsair link that's causing the issue. What's my best option for this. I placed my order from PPCS on August 1st, but I didn't receive the package till August 13th (so 4 days ago). Thanks


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> @akira749, @derickwm, or any EK reps;
> 
> I have never dealt with a watercooling part RMA and I would like some advice. I noticed that my few day old Vardar 120ER was making a slight clicking sound that may be inaudible to some, but I can notice it and it's a little irritating. I have two of them hooked up to my radiator for the time being while I'm waiting for my Caselabs to ship. I thought maybe it was my Corsair Link Commander Mini, but it's not. Another user advised me to test it on by using the PWM CPU header on my Asus Maximus Vi Hero. Only one of them made the sound, so I'm assuming that one of them is faulty, and it isn't the Corsair link that's causing the issue. What's my best option for this. I placed my order from PPCS on August 1st, but I didn't receive the package till August 13th (so 4 days ago). Thanks


I would immediately get a hold of PPCS and let them know you have a bad fan and the shipment just arrived . Then take it from there see what they can do for you.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I would immediately get a hold of PPCS and let them know you have a bad fan and the shipment just arrived . Then take it from there see what they can do for you.


I just don't feel like paying anymore money to ship it back. It'll be at least 7 more bucks, but then it's like I'm paying $27 for one fan lol.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I just don't feel like paying anymore money to ship it back. It'll be at least 7 more bucks, but then it's like I'm paying $27 for one fan lol.


Better to pay 27 for the first fan then 20.00 for another fan and get stuck with the one in your hand.









There are EK reps on this thread they might be able to help you.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> @akira749, @derickwm, or any EK reps;
> 
> I have never dealt with a watercooling part RMA and I would like some advice. I noticed that my few day old Vardar 120ER was making a slight clicking sound that may be inaudible to some, but I can notice it and it's a little irritating. I have two of them hooked up to my radiator for the time being while I'm waiting for my Caselabs to ship. I thought maybe it was my Corsair Link Commander Mini, but it's not. Another user advised me to test it on by using the PWM CPU header on my Asus Maximus Vi Hero. Only one of them made the sound, so I'm assuming that one of them is faulty, and it isn't the Corsair link that's causing the issue. What's my best option for this. I placed my order from PPCS on August 1st, but I didn't receive the package till August 13th (so 4 days ago). Thanks


Happened to me (sort of). Bought 16 of them and 2 were more noisy than the rest (made a loud buzzing past ~45%). Opened an RMA with NCIXUS and got them exchanged without any hassle.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Better to pay 27 for the first fan then 20.00 for another fan and get stuck with the one in your hand.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Happened to me (sort of). Bought 16 of them and 2 were more noisy than the rest (made a loud buzzing past ~45%). Opened an RMA with NCIXUS and got them exchanged without any hassle.


I'll shoot PPCS an email and see if I can exchange it and get a prepaid postage label back.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I'll shoot PPCS an email and see if I can exchange it and get a prepaid postage label back.


Hopefully they don't complain about it being past 3 days. Only thing I had to RMA to PPCs after 3 days of receiving a package was a single leaky rotary (o-ring got squished from way too much tube force) and, luckily, it wasn't any hassle. Probably since it'd cost them $30 to send it from Slovenia to here vs from PPCs directly for like $2 from Florida to MA lol


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> @akira749, @derickwm, or any EK reps;
> 
> I have never dealt with a watercooling part RMA and I would like some advice. I noticed that my few day old Vardar 120ER was making a slight clicking sound that may be inaudible to some, but I can notice it and it's a little irritating. I have two of them hooked up to my radiator for the time being while I'm waiting for my Caselabs to ship. I thought maybe it was my Corsair Link Commander Mini, but it's not. Another user advised me to test it on by using the PWM CPU header on my Asus Maximus Vi Hero. Only one of them made the sound, so I'm assuming that one of them is faulty, and it isn't the Corsair link that's causing the issue. What's my best option for this. I placed my order from PPCS on August 1st, but I didn't receive the package till August 13th (so 4 days ago). Thanks


You need to open the RMA directly with PPCS since you bought it from them.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You need to open the RMA directly with PPCS since you bought it from them.


You know what, I'm not even going to worry about it. It's almost same sound as when I had the Sp120's (I still couldn't fix that problem, but the 3 pin don't have that issue), but at a less quiet noise. I cant even hear it unless I put my ear right up to the fan itself.

But Akira, whats the warranty on these fans? 2 years? Let's say it gets worse over time (within the warranty), would I have to send them back to PPCS?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> You know what, I'm not even going to worry about it. It's almost same sound as when I had the Sp120's (I still couldn't fix that problem, but the 3 pin don't have that issue), but at a less quiet noise. I cant even hear it unless I put my ear right up to the fan itself.
> 
> But Akira, whats the warranty on these fans? 2 years? Let's say it gets worse over time (within the warranty), would I have to send them back to PPCS?


Get it replaced IMO so you can have the satisfaction of a quiet, properly functioning fan. Is it really $7 to ship it back to them btw? I think 1 fan is under 13 oz for first class and I remember selling some GTs individually packed via first class and it was like $2 to I think the middle of the country.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Get it replaced IMO so you can have the satisfaction of a quiet, properly functioning fan. Is it really $7 to ship it back to them btw? I think 1 fan is under 13 oz for first class and I remember selling some GTs individually packed via first class and it was like $2 to I think the middle of the country.


But bubble wrap around it and put in a manila envelope and less than 3 dollars for sure


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> But bubble wrap around it and put in a manila envelope and less than 3 dollars for sure


Whoa there Bill Gates, crushed up newspaper works just as well.

Edit: and you can save the environment or some crap like that


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> But bubble wrap around it and put in a manila envelope and less than 3 dollars for sure
> 
> 
> 
> Whoa there Bill Gates, crushed up newspaper works just as well.
> 
> Edit: and you can save the environment or some crap like that
Click to expand...

You can also prevent







Global Warming







by doing that!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> You can also prevent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Global Warming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by doing that!


I work in oil and gas so use lots and lots if bubble wrap


----------



## TK421

lol

http://emblemsbf.com/emblem-52962.html


----------



## Squashie

Eyey

Anyone seen the 'Gold backplate' together with ASRock z97 OC ?

Wondering if the gold matches the yellow/gold heatsinks on the asrock..


----------



## Kritikill

So not paying attention to the notes on the EK Pastel dye before ordering, I just read that it should not be mixed with their(EK) pre-mixed clear coolant and only run it with straight distilled. Is this correct?


----------



## t1337dude

Can't wait to outfit a water block on my Gigabyte GTX 980 Ti







Of course I need to get one that isn't constantly coil whining first


----------



## Kranik

It's a long shot but: does anyone happen to know the height of the ASUS 980 Ti Strix with water block? Perhaps @derickwm? I'm trying to figure out if it would fit in my D Frame Mini. The 780 Classy I had around does but I don't have the cash to just try it out for the sake of trying it out.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> It's a long shot but: does anyone happen to know the height of the ASUS 980 Ti Strix with water block? Perhaps @derickwm? I'm trying to figure out if it would fit in my D Frame Mini. The 780 Classy I had around does but I don't have the cash to just try it out for the sake of trying it out.


Asus lists the 980 Ti Strix as 6" tall (Assuming they still measure from the bottom of the pci connectors to the top of the PCB), you can add about an inch to that due to the Terminal on our water block. So you're going to need at least a solid 7" from the base of your motherboard to the glass of the D Frame.


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Asus lists the 980 Ti Strix as 6" tall (Assuming they still measure from the bottom of the pci connectors to the top of the PCB), you can add about an inch to that due to the Terminal on our water block. So you're going to need at least a solid 7" from the base of your motherboard to the glass of the D Frame.


Alright,my rig is about 2500 miles away from me right now but hopefully FedEx will get it here by Friday and I'll be able to measure it out then. I don't really want to go reference with the Strix costing so little more but if it doesn't fit reference will have to do.

Thanks Derick!


----------



## bmgjet

Just picked up a EKWB EK-KIT L360 (R2.0) and its missing the tubing, The sticker on the back of the box says it included in it but its not in there.
Iv contacted the website that I bought it from and they have said its a EK problem since all the EK stickers were still intact.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Just picked up a EKWB EK-KIT L360 (R2.0) and its missing the tubing, The sticker on the back of the box says it included in it but its not in there.
> Iv contacted the website that I bought it from and they have said its a EK problem since all the EK stickers were still intact.


Where did you buy it from?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Just picked up a EKWB EK-KIT L360 (R2.0) and its missing the tubing, The sticker on the back of the box says it included in it but its not in there.
> Iv contacted the website that I bought it from and they have said its a EK problem since all the EK stickers were still intact.


that sucks, hope you can get it.

BUT, the great thing is the ZMT is not that expensive and depending on where you bought it, maybe easier to just buy the ZMT from another place vs. the time and trouble it takes you to RMA it, etc. just trying to help you get on your way quicker.


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Where did you buy it from?


Will wait to see if I can get it sorted before naming and shaming them.
Have sent them a email to remind them of there legal obligation as a seller and will also be giving them a phone call tomorrow during there opening hours.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> that sucks, hope you can get it.
> 
> BUT, the great thing is the ZMT is not that expensive and depending on where you bought it, maybe easier to just buy the ZMT from another place vs. the time and trouble it takes you to RMA it, etc. just trying to help you get on your way quicker.


Its $49 for 2M of it from that same shop. Theres only 2 places that will ship here and im not going to use frozen cpu after them taking my money and refusing to send what I ordered or refund it. We really get ripped off for water cooling parts down here. Putting the kit together in separate parts was going to cost $630 vs the $439 for the kit.
But thats what ill do if they want it sent back since it was $60 shipping due to its size.


----------



## fast_fate

Putting something new together,
How do you guys feel about these style of charts.
Things start to get really busy when 4 or more are on the same chart.
The comparison style chart might work OK,
BUT
Before spending too much time on building the charts, I might see if I can grab some feedback from you guys.
easy enough to read & understand, not too cluttered (yet), axis location correct

















*EDIT:* Trickier again is adding voltage controlled (NON PWM) fans into the mix








Not quite worked that out yet


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> So not paying attention to the notes on the EK Pastel dye before ordering, I just read that it should not be mixed with their(EK) pre-mixed clear coolant and only run it with straight distilled. Is this correct?


Yes the notice is correct.


----------



## Leyaena

I've currently got a d5 Vario (non-pwm) Pump/Res combo, but I'm planning to add some extra radiator space to my system really soon.
The thing I was wondering, will I actually need an extra pump in order to deal with the extra elements I'm introducing into my loop?

currently in my loop:

1 x EK Supremacy CPU block
2 x Titan X block
1 x older (XTX?) 480mm EK radiator
2 x 240mm PE Radiators
1 x EK standalone reservoir
1 x d5 Vario (non-pwm) Pump/Res combo


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> I've currently got a d5 Vario (non-pwm) Pump/Res combo, but I'm planning to add some extra radiator space to my system really soon.
> The thing I was wondering, will I actually need an extra pump in order to deal with the extra elements I'm introducing into my loop?
> 
> currently in my loop:
> 
> 1 x EK Supremacy CPU block
> 2 x Titan X block
> 1 x older (XTX?) 480mm EK radiator
> 2 x 240mm PE Radiators
> 1 x EK standalone reservoir
> 1 x d5 Vario (non-pwm) Pump/Res combo


One D5 is more than enough


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Putting something new together,
> How do you guys feel about these style of charts.


I think they're very clear - looks great!

Back to EK goodness: EK Dual D5 with X-RES3 link, Tube 250 and standard top


----------



## KarstRypke

After one and a half years I decided to finally pull my loop apart and clean it. I've been using EK's M6I block and their 290x block (rev 1), both nickel plated. When I opened the blocks I was shocked to see some of the nickel plating had come off both of the blocks. There also was corrosion build up on both (it seemed). I cleaned the best I could with water and soap, but it didn't help much. This is what it looked like:




Today I tried to polish the blocks clean with Brasso. It worked pretty well on the raised parts of the 290x block, but it's a lot of work (polishing over and over again). I also polished a small bit of the M6I block the best I could just to see what it would look like. I got some different results this time. The nickel was wiped off fairly easily







... So basically: the nickel plating can be polished clean at areas where the coolant had been stagnant, but the nickel can be removed easily off areas in which there has been a relatively strong flow. Here's some pictures of both results so far.




I contacted EK support about the nickel flaking, but it looks like they won't be accepting an RMA from me (and I'm the original buyer). Basically they think the culprit is the coolant I used. I used Ice Dragon nanofluid in my loop, which apparently contains zinc nanoparticles. I've not seen anyone have serious problems with this coolant before







. The chrome or nickel plated Monsoon fittings I used are in perfect shape, so I'm not sure why the EK blocks started flaking. I don't want any flaking inside my loop and I'm not sure what to do now, if EK won't accept an RMA... I was thinking about trying to remove all the nickel from the inside of the blocks but that will be one hell of a job. In the meantime I'm using the Intel stock cooler and my old 6950 in my rig.









Please advise.

_Update: the EK representative has offered to send me replacement bases for both blocks. I'm very relieved. Thanks, EK. I will change the coolant to make sure this won't happen again._


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KarstRypke*
> 
> After one and a half years I decided to finally pull my loop apart and clean it. I've been using EK's M6I block and their 290x block (rev 1), both nickel plated. When I opened the blocks I was shocked to see some of the nickel plating had come off both of the blocks. There also was corrosion build up on both (it seemed). I cleaned the best I could with water and soap, but it didn't help much. This is what it looked like:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Today I tried to polish the blocks clean with Brasso. It worked pretty well on the raised parts of the 290x block, but it's a lot of work (polishing over and over again). I also polished a small bit of the M6I block the best I could just to see what it would look like. I got some different results this time. The nickel was wiped off fairly easily
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... So basically: the nickel plating can be polished clean at areas where the coolant had been stagnant, but the nickel can be removed easily off areas in which there has been a relatively strong flow. Here's some pictures of both results so far.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I contacted EK support about the nickel flaking, but it looks like they won't be accepting an RMA from me (and I'm the original buyer). Basically they think the culprit is the coolant I used. I used Ice Dragon nanofluid in my loop, which apparently contains zinc nanoparticles. I've not seen anyone have serious problems with this coolant before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The chrome or nickel plated Monsoon fittings I used are in perfect shape, so I'm not sure why the EK blocks started flaking. I don't want any flaking inside my loop and I'm not sure what to do now, if EK won't accept an RMA... I was thinking about trying to remove all the nickel from the inside of the blocks but that will be one hell of a job. In the meantime I'm using the Intel stock cooler and my old 6950 in my rig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please advise.


Monsoon you say? Do they have silver bases? If they do then there is the more likely issue. The newer Monsoon fittings have silver/ silver plated bases. From what I understand of the past issues, silver kill coil contributed the Nickel plate flaking off of blocks. But since I don't exactly know whether you have the newer style Monsoon fittings, I cannot say this is the case for certain. But I have a feeling that this is the issue.









Edit:...

Love your new Graphs, Fast Fate. Much cleaner looking than the dot, line graphs I've seen. Keep those. I could read em on my phone.









~Ceadder


----------



## KarstRypke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Monsoon you say? Do they have silver bases? If they do then there is the more likely issue. The newer Monsoon fittings have silver/ silver plated bases. From what I understand of the past issues, silver kill coil contributed the Nickel plate flaking off of blocks. But since I don't exactly know whether you have the newer style Monsoon fittings, I cannot say this is the case for certain. But I have a feeling that this is the issue.


Wow, interesting. This is the first time I hear about Monsoon using silver bases. I have no idea if my fittings are the newer ones either, I bought them on March 4th 2014, they're the regular chrome ones. Is there any other way to tell? Would Monsoon be responsible for my damage in case the fittings do indeed contain silver? I can't find anything about it on their site... I'll look into this.


----------



## SteezyTN

So I'm thinking about ordering the M6G water block for my Maximus VI hero, and the only one in stock at the web store is the mosfet. I know the SB is EOL, but anywhere I can get one?

Also, does the web store offer any discounts like PPCS does, because shipping is outrageous for international


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KarstRypke*
> 
> Wow, interesting. This is the first time I hear about Monsoon using silver bases. I have no idea if my fittings are the newer ones either, I bought them on March 4th 2014, they're the regular chrome ones. Is there any other way to tell? Would Monsoon be responsible for my damage in case the fittings do indeed contain silver? I can't find anything about it on their site... I'll look into this.


The barb should be a different color than the collar/ ring thing.


----------



## KarstRypke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> The barb should be a different color than the collar/ ring thing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I can't tell a difference right now, I'll have another look tomorrow. I see you have the black chrome version, whereas I have the regular chrome variant. The silver seems to be very light in color in your picture. I don't really see that on my barbs.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Ah yeah, yours would be harder to tell with the colors being similar
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KarstRypke*
> 
> I can't tell a difference right now, I'll have another look tomorrow. I see you have the black chrome version, whereas I have the regular chrome variant. The silver seems to be very light in color in your picture. I don't really see that on my barbs.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope, they aren't silver plated
Silver plated will be deicedly white in appearance next to a chrome or nickel plated surface. You're fine in that regard. Is there any aluminium in your loop? Cause if you aren't running any additives and only pure distilled, that would be my next guess.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KarstRypke*
> 
> After one and a half years I decided to finally pull my loop apart and clean it. I've been using EK's M6I block and their 290x block (rev 1), both nickel plated. When I opened the blocks I was shocked to see some of the nickel plating had come off both of the blocks. There also was corrosion build up on both (it seemed). I cleaned the best I could with water and soap, but it didn't help much. This is what it looked like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Today I tried to polish the blocks clean with Brasso. It worked pretty well on the raised parts of the 290x block, but it's a lot of work (polishing over and over again). I also polished a small bit of the M6I block the best I could just to see what it would look like. I got some different results this time. The nickel was wiped off fairly easily
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... So basically: the nickel plating can be polished clean at areas where the coolant had been stagnant, but the nickel can be removed easily off areas in which there has been a relatively strong flow. Here's some pictures of both results so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I contacted EK support about the nickel flaking, but it looks like they won't be accepting an RMA from me (and I'm the original buyer). Basically they think the culprit is the coolant I used. I used Ice Dragon nanofluid in my loop, which apparently contains zinc nanoparticles. I've not seen anyone have serious problems with this coolant before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The chrome or nickel plated Monsoon fittings I used are in perfect shape, so I'm not sure why the EK blocks started flaking. I don't want any flaking inside my loop and I'm not sure what to do now, if EK won't accept an RMA... I was thinking about trying to remove all the nickel from the inside of the blocks but that will be one hell of a job. In the meantime I'm using the Intel stock cooler and my old 6950 in my rig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please advise.


Looks rather like this

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8341/8199403678_243755f5ed_c.jpg
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8337/8199403730_566408a84a_c.jpg
http://hardforum.com/archive/index.php/t-1724601.html

and Low Fats experience with it.
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/case-mods-worklog-gallery/55730-completed-lowfats-big-lian-li.html

My understanding was that they have a 2 year warranty regardless of what is used though.


----------



## KarstRypke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope, they aren't silver plated
> Silver plated will be deicedly white in appearance next to a chrome or nickel plated surface. You're fine in that regard. Is there any aluminium in your loop? Cause if you aren't running any additives and only pure distilled, that would be my next guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thank you. There's no aluminium in the loop. Both rads are full copper. Tubing used was Advanced LRT. I've been running the Ice Dragon stuff, which is 99% distilled water and contains additives (there's no information about the substance on their site, the information is basically scattered across the internet...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Looks rather like this
> 
> https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8341/8199403678_243755f5ed_c.jpg
> https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8337/8199403730_566408a84a_c.jpg
> http://hardforum.com/archive/index.php/t-1724601.html
> 
> and Low Fats experience with it.
> http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/case-mods-worklog-gallery/55730-completed-lowfats-big-lian-li.html
> 
> My understanding was that they have a 2 year warranty regardless of what is used though.


Thank you for the links. It does look very similar to that first case. Perhaps it's a combination of the coolant and the quality of the plating? I am familiar with LowFat's experiences with the coolant, his FT-02 build actually inspired me to use this coolant, ironically. I wasn't aware of his bad experiences with the stuff back then.

EK's site states "two-years warranty on all products covering manufacturing and material defects on condition that the products are used in _normal_ fashion." The representative told me that the problems I'm having wouldn't have occured while using "normal" coolant... If I can find a post or anything where EK says that the kind of coolant doesn't matter, that would be very useful.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KarstRypke*
> 
> EK's site states "two-years warranty on all products covering manufacturing and material defects on condition that the products are used in _normal_ fashion." The representative told me that the problems I'm having wouldn't have occured while using "normal" coolant... If I can find a post or anything where EK says that the kind of coolant doesn't matter, that would be very useful.


Pretty sure I read an EK rep say something along those lines a few weeks ago in a back-and-forth with B NEGATIVE, assuring they support users who use other vendors in their loops and have nickel plating issues.

Is it the pastel Ice Dragon? Pretty sure Mayhems says pastel was developed in conjunction with Ice Dragon, and EK now resells Mayhems pastel under their own brand


----------



## KarstRypke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Pretty sure I read an EK rep say something along those lines a few weeks ago in a back-and-forth with B NEGATIVE, assuring they support users who use other vendors in their loops and have nickel plating issues.
> 
> Is it the pastel Ice Dragon? Pretty sure Mayhems says pastel was developed in conjunction with Ice Dragon, and EK now resells Mayhems pastel under their own brand


Interesting, I'll try to find that post later.

It doesn't say Mayhems on the bottle but it's available on their site: mayhems.co.uk/store/ice-dragon-cooling-nano-fluids-1-ltr.html.
It's not the pastel, it classifies as "other".


----------



## KarstRypke

Update: the EK representative has offered to send me replacement bases for both blocks. I'm very relieved. Thanks, EK.









I will change the coolant to make sure this won't happen again.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KarstRypke*
> 
> Update: the EK representative has offered to send me replacement bases for both blocks. I'm very relieved. Thanks, EK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will change the coolant to make sure this won't happen again.


Awesome news!


----------



## SteezyTN

Cancelled the orders on the FF4-140's and im going to get me some ER''s. PPCS is so great!!! Marina and Duke over there said they will be up soon!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Performance-PCS is at it again... Of course in a good way!
> 
> Yesterday I ordered my fans, coolant and tubing. I completely forgot about the fan splitters I needed and luckily they showed up in the recommended section to remind me (after I placed order lol). So I placed the order for the three 3pin fan spliters. Then I forgot that I needed one PWM fan splitter for my Corsair LINK (this way I can run the four 140's on 4 different headers, and run the three 120ER's all on one header because the amps are only half of the 1A max, and then my PWM pumps via fan splitter on the last header). Well that was three orders. I didn't confuse them much at first, but then when I started to email them about what I did, two people would reply to the same email I sent making them and me more confused.
> 
> Well im glad all this happened, because PPCS got so confused and it go complicated that I just asked to cancel my orders and just order again to make it easier (this is all on me, not PPCS). HOWEVER, duke and Marina mentioned to me that the EK Vardar 140ER's had arrived. They just needed to be entered in the system. Marina told me to wait for them (she pulled four of them to the side for me) to upload it to the website and just make the entire order over again. So now in a few hours ill be placing my order for the 140ER fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know certain individuals have issues with this company, but these people are the best. They may be hard to get ahold of over the phone, but when you do (even over email), they help 100%. I cannot recommend this company enough!


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> PPCS is so great!!! Marina and Duke over there said they will be up soon!


Agreed - they've been great to work with over the past few months since FCPU went dark. I order all my EK parts from PPCs these days (just got an email that they shipped some more!)


----------



## Reaper28

Is anybody using Vardar's as intake fans? I'm tempted to replace the NF-F12's in my R4, with it crammed full of drives airflow is pretty much non-existent especially with it being mid 30's right now outside


----------



## SteezyTN

First time ever dealing with an RMA through PPCS (regarding the "cricket" sound from one of my 120ER's), and I must say that I love how easy the RMA form is. Its so simple. Hopefully they grant me RMA. I just couldn't take that sound anymore.

*RMA has been approved. That was extremely fast. They said they will test it before they ship out another. I sure hope they can hear that cricketing sound.


----------



## chas1723

Did EK quit making copper blocks for graphic cards? I am looking to get a 980Ti and all the blocks are nickel plated.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Did EK quit making copper blocks for graphic cards? I am looking to get a 980Ti and all the blocks are nickel plated.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-titan-x-gtx980-ti-waterblock-acetal.html#Details


----------



## chas1723

Maybe I should have explained better......copper on the non-standard cards.


----------



## scorpscarx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Maybe I should have explained better......copper on the non-standard cards.


Yes they did, it's even posted somewhere officially in this thread.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Maybe I should have explained better......copper on the non-standard cards.


I think they said something about how all custom pcb's were switched to just nickel plated back in the 780Ti days due to wanting to have less skus as they were model specific instead of reference (which can be used on a much larger variety of cards)


----------



## derickwm

Might have been in the AMD 7000 series even... Long long ago. Bare copper sales compared to nickel speak for themselves.


----------



## chas1723

Thanks all. I just don't want nickel as I think copper looks better and there is no chance of the plating coming off.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Might have been in the AMD 7000 series even... Long long ago. Bare copper sales compared to nickel speak for themselves.


Agreed about 7*** series. But I think it goes back further. You could get Copper for 5*** series, but only Nickel for 6*** series. I know this cause I want them for my 6870s, but could only get NP version if I wanted Nickel. Trouble was that was around the time everyone lost their minds about the EK Nickel issues. So I passed in hopes of getting a GPU stand alone block.

I think people just like shiny things and don't have patience to shine their copper. A lititle wad of NevrDull can make any piece of copper just as shiny as a plated block imho. You will never see the bottom of the blocks once they're mounted to the card/mb or CPU. So that little strip of exposed block is nothing. Gimme copper over nickel plate any day.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

A Little Ek Love!






TCO


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> A Little Ek Love!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


very nice with the original CSQ in this build


----------



## bmgjet

Shop I got the EK kit finally sent me the tubing that was missing from the kit, So today finished putting it together and am 3 hours into leak testing.
Came out half decent for a DIY case made from 3 old school junkers. Just waiting on the lexan to be cut up for the side windows and should have that in Monday night.



Specs for any one that cares.
APU 7850K de-lidded
GA-F2A85XN-WIFI Mobo
350W PSU
2800mhz DDR3

And plan to pick up a Fury Nano when they come out.

8 Hours leak test done, So time for some pictures plugged in properly.


----------



## Anateus

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fb-asus-m6i-nickel

I nearly pulled a trigger on this mobo block, but then I noticed couple of buyer comments stating that backplate caused some kind of shortage and their motherboards died of electrocution







.. I really love the looks of it, but Im scared now








Should I just grab normal EVO?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fb-asus-m6i-nickel
> 
> I nearly pulled a trigger on this mobo block, but then I noticed couple of buyer comments stating that backplate caused some kind of shortage and their motherboards died of electrocution
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. I really love the looks of it, but Im scared now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I just grab normal EVO?


Worst case you can put some double sided foam tape or some thermal pad material between the backplate and the mobo. If you look at your components before just slapping it on there you should be OK. I had that issue with my GPU backplate. It had row of caps in the wrong spot, so i had to shave off a small portion of one of the heat plates and put the thermal pad there as a precaution.

I would say if you're confident with electronics get the large block. If not just get the EVO.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Worst case you can put some double sided foam tape or some thermal pad material between the backplate and the mobo. If you look at your components before just slapping it on there you should be OK. I had that issue with my GPU backplate. It had row of caps in the wrong spot, so i had to shave off a small portion of one of the heat plates and put the thermal pad there as a precaution.
> 
> I would say if you're confident with electronics get the large block. If not just get the EVO.


Well, I am only wondering whether there will be not enough place to insulate it. I might just slap something inbetween the board and backplate and call it a day.
Is there anything I should avoid to do it? I do not have thermal pads, but I might find some tape.


----------



## Ceadderman

Is there a large block for mITX?









~Ceadder


----------



## KarstRypke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Well, I am only wondering whether there will be not enough place to insulate it. I might just slap something inbetween the board and backplate and call it a day.
> Is there anything I should avoid to do it? I do not have thermal pads, but I might find some tape.


There's a sticky protective layer underneath the backplate. I haven't had any problems whatsoever with that.


----------



## Anateus

Then I guess those two guys had bad luck.. Or just scratched that surface somehow.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> very nice with the original CSQ in this build


Thanks a Ton Man! I appreciate that









TCO


----------



## King4x4

Pics of my Recent build (Yes it's on a potato phone):




Had this block for three years running... EK makes them with quality!


----------



## kl6mk6

I just got my 4 x Vardar F2-140s in and I have them hooked to my PSU, but sharing the pwm signal from my mobo's cpu header. I am having an issue where they produce an audible whine from the pwm signal. I'm not sure the best option to eliminate this noise. Does the signal need to be amplified or smoothed? I can build a circuit, i just need to know the best proven route. Thanks for any help.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I just got my 4 x Vardar F2-140s in and I have them hooked to my PSU, but sharing the pwm signal from my mobo's cpu header. I am having an issue where they produce an audible whine from the pwm signal. I'm not sure the best option to eliminate this noise. Does the signal need to be amplified or smoothed? I can build a circuit, i just need to know the best proven route. Thanks for any help.


How is your CPU header set in the BIOS?

Remember that the minimum % of the F2-140 is 30% so if you're set in a way that the fan goes below that, it might be a reason of the whine noise


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> How is your CPU header set in the BIOS?
> 
> Remember that the minimum % of the F2-140 is 30% so if you're set in a way that the fan goes below that, it might be a reason of the whine noise


The noise actually disappears below 30% and above 70%. It is loudest at 50% when the waveform is equal parts on/off. So when my pc is idle they are fine, but when The cpu is under any load the fans step up and whine. It's nothing crazy loud, it's just loud enough to be distracting.


----------



## cookiesowns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> The noise actually disappears below 30% and above 70%. It is loudest at 50% when the waveform is equal parts on/off. So when my pc is idle they are fine, but when The cpu is under any load the fans step up and whine. It's nothing crazy loud, it's just loud enough to be distracting.


Whine could be damaged bearing. 3 of my F3-120's PWM have the same issue. 1 of them is REALLY bad.


----------



## rickyman0319

i am wondering do u guys still have clear CSQ top for EK supreme cpu waterblock. I know that it is EOL. i am wondering do u guys still have the top or not?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> i am wondering do u guys still have clear CSQ top for EK supreme cpu waterblock. I know that it is EOL. i am wondering do u guys still have the top or not?


Try Performance-PCs. Pretty sure they have one.









~Ceadder


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookiesowns*
> 
> Whine could be damaged bearing. 3 of my F3-120's PWM have the same issue. 1 of them is REALLY bad.


It sounds alot like coil whine. The frequency doesn't vary with speed. If I physically stop the fan I still get the whine. I think only one of the fans may be the culprit after playing with them.


----------



## rickyman0319

it seems they dont have it. they only have Ek supremacy evo waterblock and not ek supreme HF wb.


----------



## funfordcobra

I'm having a f4 140 with the whine. I think I can live with it as long as it doesn't get louder though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> it seems they dont have it. they only have Ek supremacy evo waterblock and not ek supreme HF wb.


My bad bro, somehow I read supreme as supremacy. Course the baby was crying so that might had something to do with that.

Have you tried eBay? I have the Classified Supreme HF top so I feel your pain for lack of availavility.









~Ceadder


----------



## rickyman0319

it seems they dont have it either. i just check it.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> it seems they dont have it either. i just check it.


I think i have one in red???


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> It sounds alot like coil whine. The frequency doesn't vary with speed. If I physically stop the fan I still get the whine. I think only one of the fans may be the culprit after playing with them.


If you can identify the bad one, you could issue an RMA for this one.


----------



## Anateus

Anyone knows if the PWM headers on ASUS Maximus VII Impact will be any good for 5 120ER Vardars through a powered splitter?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Anyone knows if the PWM headers on ASUS Maximus VII Impact will be any good for 5 120ER Vardars through a powered splitter?


"...four fan headers in my *Maximus VII Impact*..."

"Whether set for PWM or voltage control, *the motherboard headers are rated for only 1 amp each*."

Source: https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?55072-Cannot-control-MCP50X-pump-with-chassis-fan-header

Your fans are 12V DC and draw 2.16W.

Source: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-vardar-f4-120er-2200rpm

According to http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/Watt_to_Amp_Calculator.htm that is 0.18A for a single fan so I think you may be able to do it. I'd still wait for a 2nd opinion though.


----------



## Anateus

Wouldnt a powered splitter only get a PWM signal from the header? Or there is something Im missing?
Like this one:
http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter.aspx

I was only wondering if the PWM signal will be strong enough for all 5 fans.
Eventually I will just get a Y-splitter and use all three headers (2/2/1).


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Wouldnt a powered splitter only get a PWM signal from the header? Or there is something Im missing?
> Like this one:
> http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter.aspx
> 
> I was only wondering if the PWM signal will be strong enough for all 5 fans.
> Eventually I will just get a Y-splitter and use all three headers (2/2/1).


I had two of those when controlling my EK Vardars (8x on each 480 rad). I'm not sure if a splitter cable alone would be problematic.

Here's some info I found in your mobo's manual: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/MAXIMUS-VII-IMPACT/e9751_maximus_vii_impact_v2_um_for_web_only.pdf







So it looks like the only true PWM header is the CPU_FAN one. The other three are voltage controlled.


----------



## Anateus

Oh, thank you. Why are they called PWM if they are not PWM (suppose that 4th pin just collects rpm info)?
Guess I have to buy myself an Aquaero...


----------



## Ceadderman

Check the other thread I posted the pinout specs for you there.

The 1T had PWM cables added unintentionally I believe. You could even remove it if you wanted. It won't affect anything.

As to why the PWM connection exists on the PCB, that's for manufacturing simplification. Make all PVBS the same and you never worry about mistakes on the manufacturing line.

"Today folks on line 1 make all connections. Tomorrow we'll see how things go today but if we're behind schedule we may extend to line 2..."

See?









~Ceadder


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Anyone knows if the PWM headers on ASUS Maximus VII Impact will be any good for 5 120ER Vardars through a powered splitter?


It'll work fine. I have 2 headers with 8 fans connected to each on Z97-WS, one more header has 6 fans connected. All via PSU-powered splitters, of course.

Upd: I believe all recent ASUS motherboards have "true" PWM headers, but their manuals are not always properly updated. On Z97-WS, all 4 chassis fan headers and 2 CPU ones are "true" PWM. Even H87M-E has two PWM chassis fan headers. Maximus Impact is a high-end board so I'm certain all headers on it are PWM.


----------



## Ceadderman

My experience is at least their higher end boards ($100 and up) do have true PWM headers.

I own RoG and my brother has Sabertooth. And we've both built systems with midrange boards as well. Their FanExpert sofware relies on it I believe.









~Ceadder


----------



## Agenesis

How do I get the aluminum ek badge off the nickel evo without a knife?

I tried the hair dryer to loosen the adhesive but it's a no go. I swear it's like ek used epoxy or something. The thing is set in there TIGHT.

The only idea I have now is destroying the sticker and try picking at it from the center to avoid damaging the block.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> How do I get the aluminum ek badge off the nickel evo without a knife? ...


Plasti dip it, maybe?


----------



## Ceadderman

You can use a heat gun or hair drier.

Just make sure you do the top only. The glue will melt quick enough to allow it to drop out.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My experience is at least their higher end boards ($100 and up) do have true PWM headers.
> 
> I own RoG and my brother has Sabertooth. And we've both built systems with midrange boards as well. Their FanExpert sofware relies on it I believe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


My asus hero vi wants a word with you.









The Asus enthusiasts mobos 1366,2011/-3 do have all seperate true pwm headers.

The z97 Asus actualy just split the cpu signel but still feed the adjustable pwm signel to every header like a splitter.

The z87 Asus like My hero, Plus and A only has PWM on the cpu header and splits that signal to the cpu Opt.

Fan expert can control pwm or voltage depending on the header/mobo settings.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> How do I get the aluminum ek badge off the nickel evo without a knife?
> 
> I tried the hair dryer to loosen the adhesive but it's a no go. I swear it's like ek used epoxy or something. The thing is set in there TIGHT.
> 
> The only idea I have now is destroying the sticker and try picking at it from the center to avoid damaging the block.


Heat gun or hair dryer and pry it with a credit card or a toothpick to avoid scratching the nickel top or if you're careful, the tip of an x-acto will work too.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> How do I get the aluminum ek badge off the nickel evo without a knife?
> 
> I tried the hair dryer to loosen the adhesive but it's a no go. I swear it's like ek used epoxy or something. The thing is set in there TIGHT.
> 
> The only idea I have now is destroying the sticker and try picking at it from the center to avoid damaging the block.


if you disambled the block you can try hot water as i did mine


----------



## Anateus

EK PETG - how much is there in a pack?
Is it 2x500mm, or 2x250mm - total 500mm?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> EK PETG - how much is there in a pack?
> Is it 2x500mm, or 2x250mm - total 500mm?


2x500mm


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 2x500mm


Thank you. Normally I wouldnt ask, but someone told me those might be 2x250mm... and it wouldnt leave my mind


----------



## longroadtrip

All cooling (fans, blocks, fittings) by EK

Not quite done, but getting there.


----------



## dbandit

Hi guys, i would like to know if someone could confirm me if i could use the Koolance 380i on the EK-KIT L240 (R2.0).

Thhank you


----------



## Ceadderman

Don't see why not. All you're doing is replacing one CPU block with another. Ports are the same specs across most of the brandname companies these days.

~Ceadder


----------



## dbandit

Thought i had to buy some specific part for tubing connection. Thank you for your answer bro.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Thank you. Normally I wouldnt ask, but someone told me those might be 2x250mm... and it wouldnt leave my mind


NP









I have bought one package recently so I can assure you it's 2x500mm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> All cooling (fans, blocks, fittings) by EK
> 
> Not quite done, but getting there.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work, as always, LRT


----------



## Makki

I will fill the form when i get my hands on last parts on my build


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> How do I get the aluminum ek badge off the nickel evo without a knife?
> 
> I tried the hair dryer to loosen the adhesive but it's a no go. I swear it's like ek used epoxy or something. The thing is set in there TIGHT.
> 
> The only idea I have now is destroying the sticker and try picking at it from the center to avoid damaging the block.


I use a Bic lighter and Heat it up, then Take the Corner of my Kershaw and Pry it out. Have used this method for over 10 blocks.

TCO


----------



## QuantumX

Hi Guys.

Just wanted to share my results. Last night was the first time I put together a custom loop, and I must say I don't think I will ever be satisfied with air cooling again.

I put the EK Full Cover block on my Asus 970 Strix, and my expectations were honestly exceeded!

Previous best clocks I could run was 1500MHz on the core and 1950MHz on the memory, on hot days I had to downclock to 1480







. Temps would max around 70 -75 when looping Unigine Valley.

With the FC WB it's now doing 1520MHz and 2080MHz rock solid stable! Great improvement on the memory clock, the stock cooler provides no cooling for the memory...

Temps did not reach 40'C even with only one 120mm radiator.

I'm still getting all the stuff together for my loop, just put the card on water on my bench rig to test.

Now i just need to find a way to increase the voltage on the card









http://hwbot.org/submission/2958331_


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuantumX*
> 
> Hi Guys.
> 
> Just wanted to share my results. Last night was the first time I put together a custom loop, and I must say I don't think I will ever be satisfied with air cooling again.
> 
> I put the EK Full Cover block on my Asus 970 Strix, and my expectations were honestly exceeded!
> 
> Previous best clocks I could run was 1500MHz on the core and 1950MHz on the memory, on hot days I had to downclock to 1480
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Temps would max around 70 -75 when looping Unigine Valley.
> 
> With the FC WB it's now doing 1520MHz and 2080MHz rock solid stable! Great improvement on the memory clock, the stock cooler provides no cooling for the memory...
> 
> Temps did not reach 40'C even with only one 120mm radiator.
> 
> I'm still getting all the stuff together for my loop, just put the card on water on my bench rig to test.
> 
> Now i just need to find a way to increase the voltage on the card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://hwbot.org/submission/2958331_


One of us... one of us... It really is so much better than air. Only downside is the time and money sink.

BTW voltage won't really do much (if anything) for you with the 970.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

The Ek Pump 3.2 DDC running 100% pushing 1.4 Gal/Min




TCO


----------



## NIK1

Just got this e-mail from EK--Dear EK customer! Unfortunately, we must inform you, that we have detected quality issues with the following products: EK-Vardar F2-140 EK-Vardar F3-140ER EK-Furious Vardar FF4-140 Since you bought at least one of the products above please be aware of the following. Some of those fans produce metallic sound when running at low speeds. F2-140 and F3-140ER, when they operate at lower RPM, a metal noise can be heard, something similar to two metal parts rubbing against each other, probably a faulty bearing. With FF4-140, a strange noise can be heard (either at low or high RPM) in the motor area and the cause is currently unknown. If you don't hear any noise and have no issues with the fans, you have received flawless fans and you can delete this mail. If you are detecting any issues, please chose one of the following options: 1. Complete refund. 2. Replacement when the new batch arrives (1-2 months waiting time, currently unclear). Please do not hesitate and contact us immediately if you need any further help regarding this issue. We are sincerely sorry for the unpleasant situation and apologize for the inconvenience caused. Sincerely, your EK team! My EK 140's are running fine though..


----------



## SteezyTN

So less than a week ago I opened up an RMA with PPCS to replace one of my 120ER's because it made metal clicking sounds about every 5-10 seconds. It was low pitch at slow RPMs and high pitched around 1500RPM. They tested it out and are now sending me a replacement


----------



## Anateus

I want to install this into D5 XRES with multiport:
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm

Is there a reason it cant be used with 100 version and "fits only" D5 XRES 140?
Its 40mm and the res is 100mm tall...


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I want to install this into D5 XRES with multiport:
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm
> 
> Is there a reason it cant be used with 100 version and "fits only" D5 XRES 140?
> Its 40mm and the res is 100mm tall...


It could get in the way of the anti-cyclone piece:

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xres-100-d5-pwm-incl-pump

i.e. this piece: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-res-x3-anticyclone-short


----------



## Anateus

I wanted to use foam anyway, is it any worse than anti-cyclone?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I wanted to use foam anyway, is it any worse than anti-cyclone?


Eh. My foam piece kept popping out and I'd have to use some chopsticks to get it back in so next time I drained my loop I took it out and used the plastic piece.


----------



## smicha

EK blocks on 2 Titans Z and on a CPU.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Is that system for gaming? ^^


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Is that system for gaming? ^^


Nope. For pro work, rendering in Octane.


----------



## Ceadderman

For those of you who were interested...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xlc-predator-240-all-in-one-liquid-cooler.html
EK XLC Predator 240 $199.99

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xlc-predator-360-all-in-one-liquid-cooler.html 

EK XLC Predator 360 $239.99

Less than 29 days before the 240 is available. And 55 days for the 360.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> For those of you who were interested...
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xlc-predator-240-all-in-one-liquid-cooler.html
> EK XLC Predator 240 $199.99
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xlc-predator-360-all-in-one-liquid-cooler.html
> 
> EK XLC Predator 360 $249.99
> 
> Less than 29 days before they're available.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


$239.99







(again)


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I am on a seriously old Dell P4 running XP atm. This thing couldn't outrun a sloth.









But it's been fixed. Thank you Steez. Again.









~Ceadder


----------



## inedenimadam

Those AIOs are smexy. seems like a decent value too. Not sure how I feel about the QDCs, but that not going to deter me from picking one of these up when they become available.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Would there be any downsides to using nylon screws (see below) to mount my fans to a rad? It's only for mounting the fans to the radiator, not for securing the radiator to the chassis.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F32XTZ8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> EK blocks on 2 Titans Z and on a CPU.


First glance, those two pictures with two different pump setup, or is it just my eyes???

Outlet in first photo starts from the center of the pump, then it disappear from the second photo, it seems like using the top port?? bit confused.

DUAL PUMP , just saw it









Very nice by the way ..... any plan for coolant color or just water?

peace


----------



## Georgey123

Wondering if anyone from EK can confirm this:

I currently have an X99 Supremacy EVO Full nickel, is it possible to replace the top with the plexi upgrade kit. The jet plates I believe are the same inside but i would like someone to confirm this

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-evo-x99-full-nickel

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-evo-upgrade-kit-plexi

Cheers


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Wondering if anyone from EK can confirm this:
> 
> I currently have an X99 Supremacy EVO Full nickel, is it possible to replace the top with the plexi upgrade kit. The jet plates I believe are the same inside but i would like someone to confirm this
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-evo-x99-full-nickel
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-evo-upgrade-kit-plexi
> 
> Cheers


I'd contact EK and ask if they have any spare tops. They might be able to send you one for free or for a discount.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Wondering if anyone from EK can confirm this:
> 
> I currently have an X99 Supremacy EVO Full nickel, is it possible to replace the top with the plexi upgrade kit. The jet plates I believe are the same inside but i would like someone to confirm this
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-evo-x99-full-nickel
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-evo-upgrade-kit-plexi
> 
> Cheers


Yep, the Plexi Upgrade Kit will fit on your block


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I'd contact EK and ask if they have any spare tops. They might be able to send you one for free or for a discount.


I would have done that but luckily a retailer here in Aus has a couple left. Thanks for your input







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yep, the Plexi Upgrade Kit will fit on your block


As usual Akira







, thanks once again.


----------



## nzphil

So I have a dumb question... When I mounted my Ek Supremacy CSQ (not the EVO) I removed the CPU retention mechanism on my motherboard Asus x79 pro LGA2011. After looking at some pictures I noticed most people leave the retention mechanism on. It has been running like this for about 2 years with no problems lol. I am about to do a cleaning and breakdown of my system and wondered if I should put the retention mechanism back on.

Here are some photos :

Before I took it off

Mounted without the retention mechanism

Backplate installed

(Yes I know it's a mess back there lol, I did eventually clean it up)


----------



## Deano12345

Just want to verify a bad idea here guys. Somehow I have managed to lose (I have no idea how) one of the screws for mounting my block to the CPU while I was swapping out a bad board. Really don't want to be without my PC any longer (I use it for work and doing everything on my laptop is slowly driving me insane) so would it be possible to get away with the three or possibly even two on diagonally opposite sides.

I'm not looking for optimal temps ( Heaviest use is gonna be Photoshop until its mounted correctly) I'm just hoping its possible to run it while I wait for the hardware to arrive or for me to have a brainwave and find the screw !

I understand its an odd question but surely someone at EK must have tried it out at some stage.









EK Supremacy on a 2011 socket if it makes any difference !


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Just want to verify a bad idea here guys. Somehow I have managed to lose (I have no idea how) one of the screws for mounting my block to the CPU while I was swapping out a bad board. Really don't want to be without my PC any longer (I use it for work and doing everything on my laptop is slowly driving me insane) so would it be possible to get away with the three or possibly even two on diagonally opposite sides.
> 
> I'm not looking for optimal temps ( Heaviest use is gonna be Photoshop until its mounted correctly) I'm just hoping its possible to run it while I wait for the hardware to arrive or for me to have a brainwave and find the screw !
> 
> I understand its an odd question but surely someone at EK must have tried it out at some stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK Supremacy on a 2011 socket if it makes any difference !


Nope, don't do it...

You won't have a flat mount, no flat mount - no good cooling,,,

Plus, the pressure will not be distributed correctly, it could cause all sorts of TERRIBLR PROBLEMS...

But, it's you machine, put up with the laptop a little longer,...

Patience is a virtue...


----------



## Anateus

If you're lucky and both IHS and CPU ale perfectly lapped, then you could be ok.. but thats just a wild guess. Im not sure about the board and block, whether the stress on those parts will be healthy without 4 screws or not.


----------



## Archea47

I've seen a handful of reports here on OCN where CPUs too tight would cause
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Just want to verify a bad idea here guys. Somehow I have managed to lose (I have no idea how) one of the screws for mounting my block to the CPU while I was swapping out a bad board. Really don't want to be without my PC any longer (I use it for work and doing everything on my laptop is slowly driving me insane) so would it be possible to get away with the three or possibly even two on diagonally opposite sides.
> 
> I'm not looking for optimal temps ( Heaviest use is gonna be Photoshop until its mounted correctly) I'm just hoping its possible to run it while I wait for the hardware to arrive or for me to have a brainwave and find the screw !
> 
> I understand its an odd question but surely someone at EK must have tried it out at some stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK Supremacy on a 2011 socket if it makes any difference !


First ... I don't recommend it









Is your socket pad or pin based? On the AMD AM3+(pin) systems you can get RAM instability (or not present) from over tightening the cooler to the chip. I would be worried with 3 sides tightened that there would be uneven pressure

Not recommending it ... but perhaps 2 would be better than three. But there's a True Value near me with a great selection of metric hardware - maybe you can pick up a replacement nut locally temporarily


----------



## Ceadderman

Can't you find the correct screw at a hardware store? If it's anything like the ones that came with my EZ mount kit , I don't see how it could be that difficult. Hardware stores carry all kinds of unfinished standard slot strews. Try taking one in and matching it. Then you don't have to resort to craziness.
















~Ceadder


----------



## zerophase

I'm setting up my EK-XTOP Dual DDC 3.2 PWM pumps to be be controlled by an Aquaeros 6 xt. It displays the pumps rpm. What are the min and max rpms for the pump? Should I double the value, since I'm controlling both pump speeds from the same header?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I'm setting up my EK-XTOP Dual DDC 3.2 PWM pumps to be be controlled by an Aquaeros 6 xt. It displays the pumps rpm. What are the min and max rpms for the pump? Should I double the value, since I'm controlling both pump speeds from the same header?


Max RPM will vary depending on your loops restrictiveness. However you certainly will not generally need to run anywhere near max RPM.

For instance I run a dual DDC top [Swiftech MCP35X2] and run my pumps at 1970 RPM when using the PC for all but gaming. When gaming I increase the RPM to 3700 to gain 2 or 3 degrees better cooling for my GPU. Realistically I could really just run at 1970 RPM all the time though. If I run my pumps at max RPM they run at just over 4500 RPM but they whine at that max RPM - at 1970 RPM I cannot hear the pumps.

When connecting the pumps to the Aquaero's same header - You must only connect one of the Pump's RPM lines to the header - Not both. If you connect both RPM wires from the pumps to the same header it will stuff up the RPM readings.

So if you are going to run off the one header for both pumps, you can only monitor one of the pump's RPM.

If you want to monitor both then connect just the pump's RPM wire from the second pump to a spare header's RPM pin. That way you can still control both pumps from the one header but monitor the pump's RPM's from two headers.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Max RPM will vary depending on your loops restrictiveness. However you certainly will not generally need to run anywhere near max RPM.
> 
> For instance I run a dual DDC top [Swiftech MCP35X2] and run my pumps at 1970 RPM when using the PC for all but gaming. When gaming I increase the RPM to 3700 to gain 2 or 3 degrees better cooling for my GPU. Realistically I could really just run at 1970 RPM all the time though. If I run my pumps at max RPM they run at just over 4500 RPM but they whine at that max RPM - at 1970 RPM I cannot hear the pumps.
> 
> When connecting the pumps to the Aquaero's same header - You must only connect one of the Pump's RPM lines to the header - Not both. If you connect both RPM wires from the pumps to the same header it will stuff up the RPM readings.
> 
> So if you are going to run off the one header for both pumps, you can only monitor one of the pump's RPM.
> 
> If you want to monitor both then connect just the pump's RPM wire from the second pump to a spare header's RPM pin. That way you can still control both pumps from the one header but monitor the pump's RPM's from two headers.


I have the pumps connected with the swiftech splitter cable. The PWM head is connected to the Aquaero, while the smaller head is plugged into the cpu fan header. For the rpm the pump always shows 4,500 on the aq6 regardless of setting.


----------



## Costas

Ahh OK then that will work fine.

In regards to the RPM staying constant - have you setup the Aquaero correctly so that the correct header is setup for PWM control? It defaults to non-PWM control from memory.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Ahh OK then that will work fine.
> 
> In regards to the RPM staying constant - have you setup the Aquaero correctly so that the correct header is setup for PWM control? It defaults to non-PWM control from memory.


Yeah, all of the heads are set to pwm.


----------



## eucalyptus

Just go my Evga 980 Ti hydro copper which has an EK block installed and my Ek supremacy Evo, is it possible to drill and fit 5 mm leds?

Only single color leds are available in 3mm, I would like to use my 5mm RGB leds


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Just go my Evga 980 Ti hydro copper which has an EK block installed and my Ek supremacy Evo, is it possible to drill and fit 5 mm leds?
> 
> Only single color leds are available in 3mm, I would like to use my 5mm RGB leds


Just use one of those LED strips like people reused with the KPEs. I think @Scarlet-Tech did something like that and it looks straight boss:


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

The Ti hydrocopper doesn't come with the same led strip. I don't think your gpu would be able to control the RGB feature, but if you run an RGB controller, you could definitely get it to work.

Darkside leds may work, in short intervals, and just install them at the back of the blocks or on the side.


----------



## eucalyptus

Yeah, strips, why haven't I thought of that for the block









I am using a lot of led strips for my build, two setups with rgb controllers.

Well, only the EK supremacy evo block left then, any ideas?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Yeah, strips, why haven't I thought of that for the block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am using a lot of led strips for my build, two setups with rgb controllers.
> 
> Well, only the EK supremacy evo block left then, any ideas?


Aqua Computer does have the single piece leds that work with the aquabus setup. If you have an aquaero, consider that? They aren't expensive either. .

If you don't have the aquaero already, that is expensive.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Aqua Computer does have the single piece leds that work with the aquabus setup. If you have an aquaero, consider that? They aren't expensive either. .
> 
> If you don't have the aquaero already, that is expensive.


Oh, no, I use 5050 rgb led strips from Ebay with 2 of these


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Got a question for all you guys. I'm redoing my build and it will have 2x EK XE480 rads (push/pull 2k+ RPM, will run around 1300-1400 normally), a 5930K, and 3x 980 Ti. Should I put a rad in between the GPUs and CPU or not? It will look way better without the rad in between them but I'm not sure about temps. CPU block is the Bitspower one that comes with the ASRock X99 OC Formula mobo block btw.


----------



## VSG

I worried about local heat before in my first loop, and then realized that, at flow rates we generally get, it doesn't matter. I had fully calibrated and precise sensors in various spots and noticed less than a degree centigrade of variance between them. So don't worry about this, go with the natural flow of the layout. Now if you have 3 GPU blocks, consider a parallel or semi parallel layout for them.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Got a question for all you guys. I'm redoing my build and it will have 2x EK XE480 rads (push/pull 2k+ RPM, will run around 1300-1400 normally), a 5930K, and 3x 980 Ti. Should I put a rad in between the GPUs and CPU or not? It will look way better without the rad in between them but I'm not sure about temps. CPU block is the Bitspower one that comes with the ASRock X99 OC Formula mobo block btw.


The loop order doesn't matter for more than 1-2C, and thats not worth sacrificing looks. The only thing in the loop you should have in order is the res feeds the pump.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I worried about local heat before in my first loop, and then realized that, at flow rates we generally get, it doesn't matter. I had fully calibrated and precise sensors in various spots and noticed less than a degree centigrade of variance between them. So don't worry about this, go with the natural flow of the layout. Now if you have 3 GPU blocks, consider a parallel or semi parallel layout for them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> The loop order doesn't matter for more than 1-2C, and thats not worth sacrificing looks. The only thing in the loop you should have in order is the res feeds the pump.


Rep to both of you. I have the EK FC triple parallel terminal that I plan on using. Do you think a single D5 is OK or should I go dual pumps?


----------



## VSG

With that setup, a single D5 should be fine also. Those rads aren't restrictive really, and the triple parallel setup for the GPU blocks will keep overall flow higher.


----------



## Panther Al

Dunno if anyone knows the answer yet, but...

On the new AIO coolers, might it be possible to get just the rad/pump combo separate? I can imagine putting a pair of the 360 rads with the pumps on it in the top of an S8 which would save me a ton of room.

*edit*

Though now I think about it... be a case of pumps at the top of the system... which might be a issue. Perhaps then in a ped...


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope. Won't be able to get the kit separate from pumps or fans or block or anything of the sort. It's an All in One unit. You'd be better off just ordering a PE 360 and building your own loop to your specifications.









~Ceadder


----------



## Panther Al

Yeah, but it would make for an excellent spacesaver.


----------



## Ceadderman

I was not talking it down. Only saying that if you want parts then you purchase parts. Nobody is going to sell you parts and continue to call it an AIO... unless you purchase from eBay.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## Makki

Hey fellas, i just wanna be sure. It might help with loop, but i own DCP4.0 pump. Can it be installed when its physically upside down (example). Note: In/out will not be swapped


----------



## Ceadderman

Not a good idea to install pumps upside down. They can easily get coolant starved and burnt out motors.









~Ceadder


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Makki*
> 
> Hey fellas, i just wanna be sure. It might help with loop, but i own DCP4.0 pump. Can it be installed when its physically upside down (example). Note: In/out will not be swapped


As long as your inlet is not facing down you should be ok.

Edit: Your example is not clickable.


----------



## Makki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not a good idea to install pumps upside down. They can easily get coolant starved and burnt out motors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> As long as your inlet is not facing down you should be ok.
> 
> Edit: Your example is not clickable.


Thanks! I thought about inlet up, and out from side.


----------



## MrMD

Question about Thermosphere blocks and performance

I had one of these on my msi 970 for a few months now,under full load i get a a delta temperature of around 15-17c between the GPU and my water.I expected it closer to the 10c mark as the 970 isnt massively power hungry.It is overclocked,but im using stock voltage and power limits.

Is the delta so high due to the smaller die size of the gpu? Did i maybe get an imperfect mount?Or i am just expecting a little much from a Uni block?

Cheers


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Question about Thermosphere blocks and performance
> 
> I had one of these on my msi 970 for a few months now,under full load i get a a delta temperature of around 15-17c between the GPU and my water.I expected it closer to the 10c mark as the 970 isnt massively power hungry.It is overclocked,but im using stock voltage and power limits.
> 
> Is the delta so high due to the smaller die size of the gpu? Did i maybe get an imperfect mount?Or i am just expecting a little much from a Uni block?
> 
> Cheers


Rad size? Which fans?


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> Rad size? Which fans?


600mm rad space, noctua F12's

The rest of the loop is fine,good heat dissipation ect. Just i feel a temp delta of 15-17c between the water and GPU is a little high for a 970.

It still never exceeds 45c


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> 600mm rad space, noctua F12's
> 
> The rest of the loop is fine,good heat dissipation ect. Just i feel a temp delta of 15-17c between the water and GPU is a little high for a 970.
> 
> It still never exceeds 45c


That does seem pretty high tbh. Should try remounting it and respreading the paste.


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> That does seem pretty high tbh. Should try remounting it and respreading the paste.


This is what i figured,just wanted to confirm that the delta should be lower before i go to the effort of stripping down my rig


----------



## PCModderMike

Making progress


The EVO upgrade kit for my old block was really simple to use, thanks for the suggestion @derickwm.


----------



## Ceadderman

Which ASUS board is that?









~Ceadder


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Which ASUS board is that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


https://www.asus.com/ROG-Republic-Of-Gamers/RAMPAGE_IV_GENE/


----------



## fisher6

Is it possible to mix EK premixed clear coolant with distilled water. Also, after using EK premixed clear can I just use the EK UV Blue or do I need to flush all the blocks?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Which ASUS board is that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.asus.com/ROG-Republic-Of-Gamers/RAMPAGE_IV_GENE/
Click to expand...

Thanks for that Mike. Your link didn't work for me but I am on my phone atm.









@fisher6... You should always flush your loop whenever changing coolant. Doing so helps prevent issues.

I have no idea if you can mix. But iirc EK coolant is pre-mixed. So in retrospect, I believe you would be diluting it if you mix and that you would probably be discouraged from mixing with anything.









~Ceadder


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> 600mm rad space, noctua F12's
> 
> The rest of the loop is fine,good heat dissipation ect. Just i feel a temp delta of 15-17c between the water and GPU is a little high for a 970.
> 
> It still never exceeds 45c


If you dont go above 45C I would say you are good. I get up around 40C while gaming and 50C while stressing.

Edit: Your rad space determines your waters delta-t, not your blocks. Your blocks delta-t depends on water flow and its power consumption.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Is it possible to mix EK premixed clear coolant with distilled water. Also, after using EK premixed clear can I just use the EK UV Blue or do I need to flush all the blocks?


For the premix, it depends on the amount of distilled you want to add. If it's something under 50ml, I don't think it will hurt the balance of the coolant.

You can mix Clear and Blue together. But if your blue is the concentrate version, be sure to mix it with distilled first and then add the mix in your clear coolant.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Which ASUS board is that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.asus.com/ROG-Republic-Of-Gamers/RAMPAGE_IV_GENE/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for that Mike. Your link didn't work for me but I am on my phone atm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

The board is Asus Rampage IV Gene x79 mATX motherboard.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> 600mm rad space, noctua F12's
> 
> The rest of the loop is fine,good heat dissipation ect. Just i feel a temp delta of 15-17c between the water and GPU is a little high for a 970.
> 
> It still never exceeds 45c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you dont go above 45C I would say you are good. I get up around 40C while gaming and 50C while stressing.
> 
> Edit: Your rad space determines your waters delta-t, not your blocks. Your blocks delta-t depends on water flow and its power consumption.
Click to expand...

I agree. GPU temp 15-17C above water consider reasonable to me. Even overclock with stock voltage, power consumption still higher than stock clocks.


----------



## Radnad

DCP2.2 and LTX block from original L120 kit still kickin with rigid upgrade! 1-2c better temps too for whatever reason!


----------



## SteezyTN

So I have the Titan X Red Backplates. For some reason, there's like some huge blobs that are matte finish looking, and the rest is the normal shinny. Why is this. How can I clean the Backplates so they look the same?


----------



## cookiesowns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> 600mm rad space, noctua F12's
> 
> The rest of the loop is fine,good heat dissipation ect. Just i feel a temp delta of 15-17c between the water and GPU is a little high for a 970.
> 
> It still never exceeds 45c


Are you sure your inlet and outlet is setup properly? My Load temp deltas on the Supremacy EVO is only 5C with a 980Ti and GC Extreme. ( 5C from water temps ) overclocked.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I have the Titan X Red Backplates. For some reason, there's like some huge blobs that are matte finish looking, and the rest is the normal shinny. Why is this. How can I clean the Backplates so they look the same?


Could you post some pics and which back plates are you referring to? EK?

~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Could you post some pics and which back plates are you referring to? EK?
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yup, that's why in posting in the Ek club! C'mon Ceadder













I never had problems with the black 780 ones. It's almost like the red versions are two different colors

(And I'm just joking about the first part Ceadder







)


----------



## Ceadderman

Lol sorry. Arguing with a 14yo girl has an effect on the thought train. Lol

Have you tried a non abrasive polishing compound like NvrDull or AutoSol?









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Lol sorry. Arguing with a 14yo girl has an effect on the thought train. Lol
> 
> Have you tried a non abrasive polishing compound like NvrDull or AutoSol?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You're not calling me a 14yo girl are you? Haha

I can try that. What about any EK reps? What would you recommend?

And thanks Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Naw my daughter was getting booty hurt and so she was doing her best to irritate me.









No problem Steez. Hope it works.









~Ceadder


----------



## Archea47

I wouldn't touch it - looks like an RMA to me


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> You're not calling me a 14yo girl are you? Haha
> 
> I can try that. What about any EK reps? What would you recommend?
> 
> And thanks Ceadder


Have you tried Isopropyl alcohol? Maybe it's only a tiny greasy film that give this weird look.

Other things like Windex (or other glass cleaner) could be tried too.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Yup, that's why in posting in the Ek club! C'mon Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never had problems with the black 780 ones. It's almost like the red versions are two different colors
> 
> (And I'm just joking about the first part Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


The finish is bad. I say it RMA time.

Looks like it had some sort of reaction, probably got contaminated by something during production.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Could you post some pics and which back plates are you referring to? EK?
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, that's why in posting in the Ek club! C'mon Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never had problems with the black 780 ones. It's almost like the red versions are two different colors
> 
> (And I'm just joking about the first part Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
Click to expand...

Factory defect...









RMA... Don't mess with it...


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Have you tried Isopropyl alcohol? Maybe it's only a tiny greasy film that give this weird look.
> 
> Other things like Windex (or other glass cleaner) could be tried too.


Both of my Backplates have it. I'll try isopropyl right now and see if it goes away. I've noticed the "defect" since day 1, but didn't worry about it because I thought it might have been normal. Then I look at other pictures of the red Backplates, and they look nothing like that.
Thanks

Update* I tried isopropyl alcohol and nothing worked. It's almost like part of it is smooth, and the other is rough. Here's a picture after I used the iso.



Is this even worth an RMA? Can I RMA through PPCS, or have to pay a butt load to ship it internationally?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Both of my Backplates have it. I'll try isopropyl right now and see if it goes away. I've noticed the "defect" since day 1, but didn't worry about it because I thought it might have been normal. Then I look at other pictures of the red Backplates, and they look nothing like that.
> Thanks
> 
> Update* I tried isopropyl alcohol and nothing worked. It's almost like part of it is smooth, and the other is rough. Here's a picture after I used the iso.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this even worth an RMA? Can I RMA through PPCS, or have to pay a butt load to ship it internationally?


If you bought it from PPCS, you have to do the RMA with them.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Both of my Backplates have it. I'll try isopropyl right now and see if it goes away. I've noticed the "defect" since day 1, but didn't worry about it because I thought it might have been normal. Then I look at other pictures of the red Backplates, and they look nothing like that.
> Thanks
> 
> Update* I tried isopropyl alcohol and nothing worked. It's almost like part of it is smooth, and the other is rough. Here's a picture after I used the iso.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this even worth an RMA? Can I RMA through PPCS, or have to pay a butt load to ship it internationally?


On an unrelated note, WOW, I should have went with red backplates instead of black...


----------



## Reaper28

I think I might need to remount my cpu block, I just started watching temps (haven't stressed it yet, still installing software) and even at idle it's hovering mid 35-40's meanwhile the GPU's are at 25-27c and considering a 360 is cooling non-active GPU's something must be wrong. It is turboing at 4.4GHz stock voltage but I'm a little disappointed. I knew the 4790K was an oven but to be that high already with out and real load and fans at 12v's.

EDIT** Ran Intel Burn Test quick it was maxing out high 70's, guess I'll be draining the loop and remounting.


----------



## Ceadderman

HoverING at 35-40c at idle? Might be a little high but what is your ambient temp?










~Ceadder


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> HoverING at 35-40c at idle? Might be a little high but what is your ambient temp?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'd say 23-25c (maybe), I swapped the thermal paste just letting the system idle and bleed now it's about mid 30's. It looked like maybe I used a little too much thermal paste last time so I used less now I guess I'll have to wait and see. Temps are all over the place from there being bubbles in the CPU block. I was expecting mid/high 20's with the fans at 12v regardless of ambient

EDIT Again lol, fan probes say mid 25c ambient, they're on rads and case intake


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I'd say 23-25c (maybe), I swapped the thermal paste just letting the system idle and bleed now it's about mid 30's. It looked like maybe I used a little too much thermal paste last time so I used less now I guess I'll have to wait and see. Temps are all over the place from there being bubbles in the CPU block. I was expecting mid/high 20's with the fans at 12v regardless of ambient
> 
> EDIT Again lol, fan probes say mid 25c ambient, they're on rads and case intake


Out of curiosity, how are you applying the thermal paste?


----------



## deafboy

Swapped out the RIVE for the Black Edition so it seemed like a good time to update the CPU and mobo blocks, now it's all EK aside from the Rads and fittings


----------



## Archea47

Looks nice and sharp!

What's the material on the pipe coming up from the floor to the reservoir? On my mobile it looks like hard fuel line


----------



## Dave6531

Can someone with the EK X3 reservoir with the X3 mount measure the width I'm tight on clearance and am looking for some measurements. Here's an example so i'm looking from the base to the highest point on the width. Any help would be appreciated. So for example on the XSPC its 88.60mm


----------



## TONSCHUH

Can someone, maybe @akira749, confirm that the EK Water Blocks EK-XLC Predator 240 is not Socket-2011-3 only, because the single EK-Supremacy MX seems to be also for Socket 1150/1151/1155/1156 ?

I would like to order at the beginning of next month 1x EK-XLC-Predator-240 for my wife, which has a Socket-1155.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Out of curiosity, how are you applying the thermal paste?


Just the pea/rice method and applying the block. I don't know if it was just a bad mount as it looked like all the paste was to the left of the chip but it seems a little better. I haven't stressed it yet though.

Idle temps dropped as low as 27c last night and are hovering low 30's at 4.5GHz stock volt, I hope they drop a few more degrees once all the air is out of the loop


----------



## emsj86

To be honest that's about normal with what you have. I have 360 and a 240 with 1000rpm fans an idle for gpu a is low to mid 20s and max 45 on load. And my 4790k at 4.7 1.3v idles at 30-35 in 72-74 degree room. Max on intel is 79 sometimes 80 but occt which I use now max is 69. Coming from a fx8350 I thought the temps were off as well but I've reseated several times and stays the same. Just how it is


----------



## catbuster

Any news on Signalkuppe?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Just the pea/rice method and applying the block. I don't know if it was just a bad mount as it looked like all the paste was to the left of the chip but it seems a little better. I haven't stressed it yet though.
> 
> Idle temps dropped as low as 27c last night and are hovering low 30's at 4.5GHz stock volt, I hope they drop a few more degrees once all the air is out of the loop


I was going to recommend that method, those temps sound much better.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Can someone with the EK X3 reservoir with the X3 mount measure the width I'm tight on clearance and am looking for some measurements. Here's an example so i'm looking from the base to the highest point on the width. Any help would be appreciated. So for example on the XSPC its 88.60mm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The pump top alone or with the mounting bracket included?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Can someone, maybe @akira749, confirm that the EK Water Blocks EK-XLC Predator 240 is not Socket-2011-3 only, because the single EK-Supremacy MX seems to be also for Socket 1150/1151/1155/1156 ?
> 
> I would like to order at the beginning of next month 1x EK-XLC-Predator-240 for my wife, which has a Socket-1155.


No it's for 115x and 2011 (v3 or not)


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Any news on Signalkuppe?


Just got official word, will be released with the second coming of Christ.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Looks nice and sharp!
> 
> What's the material on the pipe coming up from the floor to the reservoir? On my mobile it looks like hard fuel line


Copper tubing


----------



## NvNw

@akira749 I was looking for the EK-FB ASUS M6I - Nickel and i found that its EOL... :'(

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fb-asus-m6i-nickel

Any chance of getting one or i should buy the CSQ asap cause it's gonna be EOL too?


----------



## dilster97

Got EK-ACF 10/13mm fittings and it is difficult to remove the outer ring.

Anything to take off the ring without damaging it?

EDIT: needle nose pliers do the job.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No it's for 115x and 2011 (v3 or not)


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> @akira749 I was looking for the EK-FB ASUS M6I - Nickel and i found that its EOL... :'(
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fb-asus-m6i-nickel
> 
> Any chance of getting one or i should buy the CSQ asap cause it's gonna be EOL too?


I would get the CSQ asap since it will be going EOL when the stock goes to zero


----------



## NvNw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I would get the CSQ asap since it will be going EOL when the stock goes to zero


Thanks, i made an order for it like half an hour ago and it was the last one.







Anyway i asked in the order comment that if was possible to send me a clear top... Guess i will get the Original CSQ and i'll polish it...

Not so bad....


----------



## Reaper28

Well everything seems to be fine now, seen as my ac isn't running right ambient is a little high but temps are a little better around the 30's boosting to 4.5 and GPU's are still around high 20's.

@NvNw, nice system/album name lol ^


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Just got official word, will be released with the second coming of Christ.


Sounds legit, cant wait


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The pump top alone or with the mounting bracket included?
> 
> Well im going to use the the xtop pump so preferably just the tube and mount


----------



## NvNw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Well everything seems to be fine now, seen as my ac isn't running right ambient is a little high but temps are a little better around the 30's boosting to 4.5 and GPU's are still around high 20's.
> 
> @NvNw, nice system/album name lol ^










Thanks, anyway that build is really old... now i'm on a Ncase M1 v4 with a 980TI. I'm thinking of doing a build log when i get my last order from EKWB.


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookiesowns*
> 
> Are you sure your inlet and outlet is setup properly? My Load temp deltas on the Supremacy EVO is only 5C with a 980Ti and GC Extreme. ( 5C from water temps ) overclocked.


Yea using correct inlet ports according to the manual.Its fine at idle,always within 1-2c of water temp, but under max load it will be up to 15c above my water .Im assuming it was just a bad application of paste on my part









Only 5c above your water temps seems insane for that card,nice


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The pump top alone or with the mounting bracket included?
> 
> 
> 
> Well im going to use the the xtop pump so preferably just the tube and mount
Click to expand...

I will measure it but it could go on saturday. Unless someone else is quicker than me


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Can someone with the EK X3 reservoir with the X3 mount measure the width I'm tight on clearance and am looking for some measurements. Here's an example so i'm looking from the base to the highest point on the width. Any help would be appreciated. So for example on the XSPC its 88.60mm


70.8mm


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 70.8mm


Thanks I appreciate it. Was looking at using a monsoon but its almost 8mm more in width and not sure if it would fit looks like I'm going the x3 res with xtop d5 pump might have to be ddc pump.


----------



## kaistledine

Added mine !

4 way fan Spliter
EK-RES X3 250
EK-XTOP D5 Vario- Acetal
EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal + Nickel
EK Coolstream XE 480 x 2
Fans EK Vardar 2200 x 20
Male - male fitting G1/4 x 1
M-M rotary fitting G1/4 x 1
M-F rotary fitting G1/4 x 1
stopper x 1
compression fitting G1/4 x 11
90 deg fittings X 2
EK cable splitter 4-fan splitter X 4
EK Screws ( 20Pcs)
EK-ATX Bridging Plug (24 pin)


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 70.8mm


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Thanks I appreciate it. Was looking at using a monsoon but its almost 8mm more in width and not sure if it would fit looks like I'm going the x3 res with xtop d5 pump might have to be ddc pump.


I knew someone would be quicker









Thanks @Jakusonfire


----------



## akira749

Meanwhile....









https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks/photos/a.900143656706333.1073741851.182927101761329/900143663372999/?type=1



Product thread will be up next week


----------



## kaistledine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Meanwhile....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks/photos/a.900143656706333.1073741851.182927101761329/900143663372999/?type=1
> 
> 
> 
> Product thread will be up next week


Very Nice !!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Meanwhile....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks/photos/a.900143656706333.1073741851.182927101761329/900143663372999/?type=1
> 
> 
> 
> Product thread will be up next week


It's the new d5 cyclone of doom edition! Now I'm curious if it will also be available in acetal (although the acrylic is gorgeous), and if the csq design will still be around.


----------



## Sptz

I'm contemplating putting both my gtx 970 in a custom loop (CPU is already on an H110i GTX and it runs brilliant so no need to touch it for now).

I have just a couple of questions, is the EK coolstream CE 140 single rad enough for 2 GTX 970s?

Also:



Is this from EK? Does it exist for 2 way SLI? I'm assuming that houses both the tubing and SLI connection?


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sptz*
> 
> I'm contemplating putting both my gtx 970 in a custom loop (CPU is already on an H110i GTX and it runs brilliant so no need to touch it for now).
> 
> I have just a couple of questions, is the EK coolstream CE 140 single rad enough for 2 GTX 970s?
> 
> Also:
> 
> 
> 
> Is this from EK? Does it exist for 2 way SLI? I'm assuming that houses both the tubing and SLI connection?


FC Terminals


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> It's the new d5 cyclone of doom edition! Now I'm curious if it will also be available in acetal (although the acrylic is gorgeous), and if the csq design will still be around.


More info on Monday


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I would get the CSQ asap since it will be going EOL when the stock goes to zero


Wait, Are we just talking about the M6 csq being EOL, because I live by the Original CSQ.

TCO


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Wait, Are we just talking about the M6 csq being EOL, because I live by the Original CSQ.
> 
> TCO


The *EK-FB ASUS M6I* is already EOL. What you see in the webshop is the few blocks we still have. Once they're gone it's over.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The *EK-FB ASUS M6I* is already EOL. What you see in the webshop is the few blocks we still have. Once they're gone it's over.


Just making sure EK will continue making CSQ Original period. The M6I is of no concern to me.

TCO


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Meanwhile....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks/photos/a.900143656706333.1073741851.182927101761329/900143663372999/?type=1
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Product thread will be up next week


That looks quite small for a D5, has the pump been modified as well, or just the casing?


----------



## tiborrr12

I think this photo will explain it better


----------



## Kimir

That's a completely new pump then, look quite small!


----------



## scorpscarx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> That's a completely new pump then, look quite small!


Looks more like it's just shrouded by that. It looks nice







.


----------



## Kimir

Oh indeed you are right, like a shroud noise dampening.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I think this photo will explain it better


Any plans for a res top version? I could definitely fit that in my case where the xres wont fit.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Think i will be holding on to my current EK d5s. Not sold on the new round style.
A bit too primochill maybe? .. I dunno. Losing an outlet port doesnt help either.


----------



## tiborrr12

That outlet port was seldom used that's why we removed it. We have both 2-port and 3-port variant ready to deploy if needed though.

This design was chosen to make the most compact D5 pump with integrated decoupling possible.

And since the original body of the pump is circular the rounded shape of the pump body was on hand as the most natural solution. I think we pulled it off nicely.


----------



## pfarrey

This is my almost 100% EK build. Waiting on cables and lights but its almost there.

Love the product, it is fantastic quality. The only issue I have run into is the D5 PWM pumps not running on Aquaero or MB headers.


----------



## NvNw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pfarrey*
> 
> This is my almost 100% EK build. Waiting on cables and lights but its almost there.
> 
> Love the product, it is fantastic quality. The only issue I have run into is the D5 PWM pumps not running on Aquaero or MB headers.












Those tubes!!! That much bending!!! Make me think of this:


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pfarrey*
> 
> This is my almost 100% EK build. Waiting on cables and lights but its almost there.
> 
> Love the product, it is fantastic quality. The only issue I have run into is the D5 PWM pumps not running on Aquaero or MB headers.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome build pfarrey

You can use the 'Diva mod' to make those EK PWM D5s controllable by the Aquaero

Here's mine done per her specs:


It's a D5 PWM issue in general (except AquaComputer), not specific to EK


----------



## pfarrey

Thanks I have tried this but still no joy. I have managed to get the pumps to respond via power control. I must be doing something wrong but not sure what.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sptz*
> 
> I'm contemplating putting both my gtx 970 in a custom loop (CPU is already on an H110i GTX and it runs brilliant so no need to touch it for now).
> 
> I have just a couple of questions, is the EK coolstream CE 140 single rad enough for 2 GTX 970s?
> 
> Also:
> 
> 
> 
> Is this from EK? Does it exist for 2 way SLI? I'm assuming that houses both the tubing and SLI connection?


Doesn't house the SLI connector, just for water so it replaces all the misc fittings/tubing to connect GPUs.

But as mentioned directly after yours FC Bridge. They come in 2/3/4 way and can be found in Parallel and Serial configurations.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> More info on Monday


Oooh, will make the day off even better!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I think this photo will explain it better


Oh my. Teasing the black, it's gorgeous!

Also I'm curious as well about a reservoir on top of such is an option, but waiting until Monday shouldn't be too too painful


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pfarrey*
> 
> This is my almost 100% EK build. Waiting on cables and lights but its almost there.
> 
> Love the product, it is fantastic quality. The only issue I have run into is the D5 PWM pumps not running on Aquaero or MB headers.


This is TRUE pipe bending. I'm kinda like it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> More info on Monday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oooh, will make the day off even better!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I think this photo will explain it better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh my. Teasing the black, it's gorgeous!
> 
> Also I'm curious as well about a reservoir on top of such is an option, but waiting until Monday shouldn't be too too painful
Click to expand...

Those pumps look sharp. Dual DDC version to follow?









~Ceadder


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pfarrey*
> 
> This is my almost 100% EK build. Waiting on cables and lights but its almost there.
> 
> Love the product, it is fantastic quality. The only issue I have run into is the D5 PWM pumps not running on Aquaero or MB headers.


like the gpu loop, cpu ram loop a bit overcrowded


----------



## Jakusonfire

That is the strangest loop I have ever seen. I can't see how it would work well. What is the at the front of the case with 4 lines leading too it?
Looks very much like most of the flow is bypassing the actual components with all those parallel lines.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That is the strangest loop I have ever seen. I can't see how it would work well. What is the at the front of the case with 4 lines leading too it?
> Looks very much like most of the flow is bypassing the actual components with all those parallel lines.


I feel like a couple of the ports in the D5 pumps shouldn't be used. I though you just need and inlet and outlet.... So....

Oh Boy.

TCO


----------



## tiborrr12

Now you know why we stick to 2 ports on Revo D5 these days


----------



## pfarrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That is the strangest loop I have ever seen. I can't see how it would work well. What is the at the front of the case with 4 lines leading too it?
> Looks very much like most of the flow is bypassing the actual components with all those parallel lines.


I thought I'd try something different. The second loop per pump leads to flow readers at the front. What I wasn't sure about was whether flow equalises over a loop like temperature does. Judging by the speed of the bubbles within the tubing it appears to run at similar rates. Once the build is complete I can do some testing. If needed I will change the set up. Temps are very good so it seems to be running well.


----------



## Ceadderman

It looks like one of those Genius puzzles one finds when visiting a therapist's office. Must've been fun to put together.









~Ceadder


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Ok EK club, new member here.

I need some help with a question on CPU blocks.

Will the top from this Block:
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-evo-nickel-original-csq

Fit on this one:
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-evo-x99-nickel


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope. It won't. The chambers are different iirc.









~Ceadder


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope. It won't. The chambers are different iirc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


damn this is going to kill me and my OCD.......


----------



## Ceadderman

I understand. My OCD gets the best of me too.










~Ceadder


----------



## Evil-Mobo

They make a clean csq x99 block but no clean csq GPU block for the 980........ same with the ram blocks...... so I either run a non x99 CPU block that has the original csq or run the X99 block that is clear and it doesn't match everything else......

Yes this will drive me that crazy........


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> They make a clean csq x99 block but no clean csq GPU block for the 980........ same with the ram blocks...... so I either run a non x99 CPU block that has the original csq or run the X99 block that is clear and it doesn't match everything else......
> 
> Yes this will drive me that crazy........


They do make clean CSQ RAM blocks actually. Have you looked on PPCs website? They carry both types the in Nickel and Copper clean tops acetal and acrylic versions.

~Ceadder


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Yes they do, sometimes I don't do a good job expressing the thought in my head:

- Clear Ram blocks yes
- CSQ clear Ram blocks yes
- Clear GPU 980 block (no, not one that covers the entire pcb like the CSQ one)
- CSQ Clear 980 Block yes
- X99 Clear CPU block yes
- X99 CSQ clear block no
- Non X99 CSQ CPU block yes

So I cannot get an X99 specific CPU block that will also exactly match the 980 GPU block AND the RAM blocks, did I lose you?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> Ok EK club, new member here.
> 
> I need some help with a question on CPU blocks.
> 
> Will the top from this Block:
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-evo-nickel-original-csq
> 
> Fit on this one:
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-evo-x99-nickel


Yes it would but if you don't already own an EVO X99, why not simply buy the EVO Original CSQ since it fits the X99 too?


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes it would but if you don't already own an EVO X99, why not simply buy the EVO Original CSQ since it fits the X99 too?


Follow me for a second and then since you know much more than I you can tell me if my logic is flawed:

If they made an X99 specific block because it mounts and performs better then I want the better performance but with the same look as the other EK parts going on my build......

Thanks for answering my question though, now I can sleep tonight lol









I have the original CSQ on hand. Buddy has the clear X99 block, I want to marry them together for the final product, an X99 specific CSQ CPU block


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> Yes they do, sometimes I don't do a good job expressing the thought in my head:
> 
> - Clear Ram blocks yes
> - CSQ clear Ram blocks yes
> - Clear GPU 980 block (no, not one that covers the entire pcb like the CSQ one)
> - CSQ Clear 980 Block yes
> - X99 Clear CPU block yes
> - X99 CSQ clear block no
> - Non X99 CSQ CPU block yes
> 
> So I cannot get an X99 specific CPU block that will also exactly match the 980 GPU block AND the RAM blocks, did I lose you?


No removable top DDR4 on the market yet but I have heard of people using EK DDR3 heats inks on DDR4 and using the top that way. iirc since DDR4 is one sided RAM you have to be careful not to contact the bare spot in the middle of the RAM with the metal of the heatsink. But that's easily avoided with some forms of protection over that point and the TIM pads need to make contact with it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No removable top DDR4 on the market yet but I have heard of people using EK DDR3 heats inks on DDR4 and using the top that way. iirc since DDR4 is one sided RAM you have to be careful not to contact the bare spot in the middle of the RAM with the metal of the heatsink. But that's easily avoided with some forms of protection over that point and the TIM pads need to make contact with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You're over complicating this, I have no issue with the RAM blocks.....

It's the CPU block lid

But @Akira answered my question


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> Follow me for a second and then since you know much more than I you can tell me if my logic is flawed:
> 
> If they made an X99 specific block because it mounts and performs better then I want the better performance but with the same look as the other EK parts going on my build......
> 
> Thanks for answering my question though, now I can sleep tonight lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the original CSQ on hand. Buddy has the clear X99 block, I want to marry them together for the final product, an X99 specific CSQ CPU block


The EVO X99 is simply a "downgraded" version of the EVO.

In the EVO X99 you only receive the mounting hardware for the 2011v3 socket and you only get the I2 insert and J3 jet plate since they are the recommended ones for the X99.

In the normal EVO you get the mounting hardware for the 2011v3 and for the 115x sockets as well has the AMD mountings. You get both inserts and 3 jet plates.

Both versions have the same exact block so an EVO X99 and a normal EVO with the I2 insert and the J3 jet plate will perform exactly the same since they are in fact identical.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> You're over complicating this, I have no issue with the RAM blocks.....
> 
> It's the CPU block lid


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The EVO X99 is simply a "downgraded" version of the EVO.
> 
> In the EVO X99 you only receive the mounting hardware for the 2011v3 socket and you only get the I2 insert and J3 jet plate since they are the recommended ones for the X99.
> 
> In the normal EVO you get the mounting hardware for the 2011v3 and for the 115x sockets as well has the AMD mountings. You get both inserts and 3 jet plates.
> 
> Both versions have the same exact block so an EVO X99 and a normal EVO with the I2 insert and the J3 jet plate will perform exactly the same since they are in fact identical.


Perfect thank you for the explanation. So I don't need to switch anything just get the right mounting bracket and jet plate on.

Awesome


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No removable top DDR4 on the market yet but I have heard of people using EK DDR3 heats inks on DDR4 and using the top that way. iirc since DDR4 is one sided RAM you have to be careful not to contact the bare spot in the middle of the RAM with the metal of the heatsink. But that's easily avoided with some forms of protection over that point and the TIM pads need to make contact with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're over complicating this, I have no issue with the RAM blocks.....
> 
> It's the CPU block lid
> 
> But @Akira answered my question
Click to expand...

Ahhh okay. My OCD jumped to conclusions assuming you were wanting both.









~Ceadder


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ahhh okay. My OCD jumped to conclusions assuming you were wanting both.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Akira just cleared it up for me I am good now. All original CSQ is a green light









I have a lot of polishing in my future


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> Perfect thank you for the explanation. So I don't need to switch anything just get the right mounting bracket and jet plate on.
> 
> Awesome


No problems


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No problems


I know it was something trivial but it would kill me to dump all this money on parts and the lid for the CPU block didn't match, even if no one else noticed it I would know lol.......


----------



## cookiesowns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No removable top DDR4 on the market yet but I have heard of people using EK DDR3 heats inks on DDR4 and using the top that way. iirc since DDR4 is one sided RAM you have to be careful not to contact the bare spot in the middle of the RAM with the metal of the heatsink. But that's easily avoided with some forms of protection over that point and the TIM pads need to make contact with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


There's double sided DDR4. Most if not all 8GB and 16GB dimms are double sided.


----------



## DanBr

Akira749

I have 2 EK 480 XE rads in my new build and just read this.
Can you comment please
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/09/02/bad-news-for-eks-new-xe-radiator/
Dan


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Akira749
> 
> I have 2 EK 480 XE rads in my new build and just read this.
> Can you comment please
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/09/02/bad-news-for-eks-new-xe-radiator/
> Dan


Already answered on your PM


----------



## Daggi

I wonder if EK has any plans of making a flowmeter. If so that would be great


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I wonder if EK has any plans of making a flowmeter. If so that would be great


Flow meter or flow indicator (a spinning wheel / whatever)?


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Already answered on your PM


I've bought XE Two weeks ago, should I be worried?


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I've bought XE Two weeks ago, should I be worried?


I have 2 XE as well.


----------



## akira749

OKAY!

About the XtremeRigs article about the XE radiator.....

Since this article has been released, support is a nightmare....thanks XtremeRigs!

One thing you must know is that before all this crazy race has begun a few days ago, only 2 RMA requests were reported on the XE radiators.

Then 2 customers here on OCN also experienced and I personally communicated with them and they were handled correctly with the Support and RMA teams at EK.

But other than that, i'm not aware of any other cases. Yesterday, I helped another customer over Reddit who have one of it's 2 XE that has some damage on but nothing like the 2 others customers and also so far he didn't had any leaks.

So to answer everyone's question about if they should be worried I would say NO in the first place and then if you still want to be sure, the only way to know is to check your end tank and see if it's badly damaged.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Flow meter or flow indicator (a spinning wheel / whatever)?


Differential pressure meter like the MPS400 would be best







no moving parts to break or get stuck and high flow


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Flow meter or flow indicator (a spinning wheel / whatever)?


I would prefer a Differential pressure meter also


----------



## Ceadderman

IDC so long as it reliably works. TBH both kinds would be best. Some of us are handcuffed to a budget.

Some ring temp sensors would be good too. The rings could look like the new D5 housing. That would be EPIC!









~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I wonder if EK has any plans of making a flowmeter. If so that would be great


Rumor has it that Signalkuppe just might support the inexpensive inline flowmeters from that K company without need of the frequency adapter.

D.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Rumor has it that Signalkuppe just might support the inexpensive inline flowmeters from that K company without need of the frequency adapter.
> 
> D.


What I was really hoping for was a flow meter built into the water block. But of course that assumes there is still a water block. Which there may not be.


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Meanwhile....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks/photos/a.900143656706333.1073741851.182927101761329/900143663372999/?type=1
> 
> 
> 
> Product thread will be up next week


Uuuu beautiful pump...
Good for smaller rigs in future, mATX, Mini ITX.


----------



## Ceadderman

It's a D5. It's bigger than that pic shows.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's a D5. It's bigger than that pic shows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah, why do people always think things are small in pics? If anything it looks like it may be slightly taller than the old model with the outlet in the centre like that and it must be nearly as wide. Round pumps take up less real estate technically but there aren't a lot of round spaces in builds that wouldn't fit a square the same diameter.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Rumor has it that Signalkuppe just might support the inexpensive inline flowmeters from that K company without need of the frequency adapter.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> What I was really hoping for was a flow meter built into the water block. But of course that assumes there is still a water block. Which there may not be.
Click to expand...

If they optimized it for the Varders with PWM, then without voltage control, there would be no need for a water block, or even a passive heatsink.

D.


----------



## akira749

EK introduces new REVO D5 series of pumps and reservoirs combos


----------



## PCModderMike

Made a little more progress last night. Prepped my pumps.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Made a little more progress last night. Prepped my pumps.


No updates to the log?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Made a little more progress last night. Prepped my pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> No updates to the log?
Click to expand...

No I hadn't really thought about doing a log for this version. I have so little time as is, it would take me a lot longer to get the build done if I was always setting up my studio and snapping and editing pics. Figured I would just get it done, then setup and get final photos and share them among the relevant threads.


----------



## deafboy

I really should get a crimper and redo my pumps wiring... looks great


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Made a little more


There's no need to use flickr PCModderMike; you can upload all the photos you like right to this forum using the picture icon when submitting a post on the desktop version of this site

Looks great! I have the same deal pump setup and it's been running for the last 20 hours, first 20 hours of service! Using the Diva Mod they work great with my aquaero except they make a slight rattling noise at 4850rpm. 4800 and anywhere below there and they sound great

That rattle might be air - with both d5s at full blast I get a thin cyclone all the way from the top of the ek tube 250. What's a good remedy? I don't like the big EK logo anti-cyclone (not that I don't like my EK gear, but they aren't paying me to have a huge logo in my build)


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> I really should get a crimper and redo my pumps wiring... looks great


Thanks deafboy!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Made a little more
> 
> 
> 
> There's no need to use flickr PCModderMike; you can upload all the photos you like right to this forum using the picture icon when submitting a post on the desktop version of this site
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great! I have the same deal pump setup and it's been running for the last 20 hours, first 20 hours of service! Using the Diva Mod they work great with my aquaero except they make a slight rattling noise at 4850rpm. 4800 and anywhere below there and they sound great
> 
> That rattle might be air - with both d5s at full blast I get a thin cyclone all the way from the top of the ek tube 250. What's a good remedy? I don't like the big EK logo anti-cyclone (not that I don't like my EK gear, but they aren't paying me to have a huge logo in my build)
Click to expand...









Thanks for the tip, but I am well aware of how to upload pics directly to the site. Using flickr is part personal preference, and part necessity. Shooting with a full frame DSLR such as my Sony A7ii creates images on average around the size of 20MB when saved as a JPG after editing, sometimes more. OCN has a 10MB upload limit, and since I would rather not lower the quality of my pics, I just link them from flickr.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> There's no need to use flickr PCModderMike; you can upload all the photos you like right to this forum using the picture icon when submitting a post on the desktop version of this site
> 
> Looks great! I have the same deal pump setup and it's been running for the last 20 hours, first 20 hours of service! Using the Diva Mod they work great with my aquaero except they make a slight rattling noise at 4850rpm. 4800 and anywhere below there and they sound great
> 
> That rattle might be air - with both d5s at full blast I get a thin cyclone all the way from the top of the ek tube 250. What's a good remedy? I don't like the big EK logo anti-cyclone (not that I don't like my EK gear, but they aren't paying me to have a huge logo in my build)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Thanks deafboy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip, but I am well aware of how to upload pics directly to the site. Using flickr is part personal preference, and part necessity. Shooting with a full frame DSLR such as my Sony A7ii creates images on average around the size of 20MB when saved as a JPG after editing, sometimes more. OCN has a 10MB upload limit, and since I would rather not lower the quality of my pics, I just link them from flickr.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> No I hadn't really thought about doing a log for this version. I have so little time as is, it would take me a lot longer to get the build done if I was always setting up my studio and snapping and editing pics. Figured I would just get it done, then setup and get final photos and share them among the relevant threads.


I was digging for you build log Mike but thats fair enough, I have been enjoying some of your flickr shots







. Looking forward to the final build.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> No I hadn't really thought about doing a log for this version. I have so little time as is, it would take me a lot longer to get the build done if I was always setting up my studio and snapping and editing pics. Figured I would just get it done, then setup and get final photos and share them among the relevant threads.
> 
> 
> 
> I was digging for you build log Mike but thats fair enough, I have been enjoying some of your flickr shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Looking forward to the final build.
Click to expand...

Well I do enjoy doing a log somewhat. Good way to converse and go back and forth with other members without feeling like I'm clogging up a club thread such as this.
I do have a small break from my classes coming up....maybe I can get something together.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> There's no need to use flickr PCModderMike; you can upload all the photos you like right to this forum using the picture icon when submitting a post on the desktop version of this site
> 
> Looks great! I have the same deal pump setup and it's been running for the last 20 hours, first 20 hours of service! Using the Diva Mod they work great with my aquaero except they make a slight rattling noise at 4850rpm. 4800 and anywhere below there and they sound great
> 
> That rattle might be air - with both d5s at full blast I get a thin cyclone all the way from the top of the ek tube 250. What's a good remedy? I don't like the big EK logo anti-cyclone (not that I don't like my EK gear, but they aren't paying me to have a huge logo in my build)
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Thanks deafboy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip, but I am well aware of how to upload pics directly to the site. Using flickr is part personal preference, and part necessity. Shooting with a full frame DSLR such as my Sony A7ii creates images on average around the size of 20MB when saved as a JPG after editing, sometimes more. OCN has a 10MB upload limit, and since I would rather not lower the quality of my pics, I just link them from flickr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...









that gif

Didn't mean for my response to come off like I was trying to "school" someone though, if it did.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Why is there no acetal version of this in the web store? https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-res-x3-bottom-white


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Why is there no acetal version of this in the web store? https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-res-x3-bottom-white


Because it comes with every res.

From memory they used to have every component available separately but they have been rationalising the number of SKU's across the entire range.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Because it comes with every res.


I was thinking of converting my XRES-140 to a standalone res by just getting the tube to go with my multiport top and the bottom piece + holders which would be cheaper than getting the reservoir.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I was thinking of converting my XRES-140 to a standalone res by just getting the tube to go with my multiport top and the bottom piece + holders which would be cheaper than getting the reservoir.


Yeah, I guess they don't expect many people to disable an Xres to save buying a new res. None of the other companies do it either.

You would have to buy the base, anti cyclone and mounts. By that time how much are you really saving.

If you contact support they may sell you one.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I was thinking of converting my XRES-140 to a standalone res by just getting the tube to go with my multiport top and the bottom piece + holders which would be cheaper than getting the reservoir.


I actually pieced together an entire X3, Multi option top, 150ml Res, and Multi Option Bottom






Did, I save Money? Ah..... Maybe Not so much.

TCO

I want to say it was closer to 50$ for everything.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I was thinking of converting my XRES-140 to a standalone res by just getting the tube to go with my multiport top and the bottom piece + holders which would be cheaper than getting the reservoir.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah, I guess they don't expect many people to disable an Xres to save buying a new res. None of the other companies do it either.
> 
> You would have to buy the base, anti cyclone and mounts. By that time how much are you really saving.
> 
> If you contact support they may sell you one.


Like Jakusonfire, if you contact the support team ([email protected]) they should be able to sell you one.


----------



## emsj86

Will there be a pump mod on the d5 to cover up the plastic (kinda like bp has) ?


----------



## Dave6531

Hope there is going to be covers for the xtop pump like they have now, not a big fan of the back half
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Will there be a pump mod on the d5 to cover up the plastic (kinda like bp has) ?


Not sure if I'm understanding right but you referring to something similar to this to cover the d5 pump motor?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-d5-cover-kit-black-acetal.html


----------



## emsj86

I'm talking about the covers for the pp itself. Bitspower has all different colors for d5 pumps. Called a d5 pump mod kit. I think it looks better than the stock plastic


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I'm talking about the covers for the pp itself. Bitspower has all different colors for d5 pumps. Called a d5 pump mod kit. I think it looks better than the stock plastic


I have two of those on my pumps







I love them. Expensive, but great!


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have two of those on my pumps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love them. Expensive, but great!


Love those sexy XSPC Photon reservoirs, wish I still had mine but it was just too big for my tiny Enthoo Primo lol. IMO glass > acrylic.


----------



## Willius

A few fans arrived


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Will there be a pump mod on the d5 to cover up the plastic (kinda like bp has) ?


The EK guys have said the covers aren't needed anymore because of the new mount system so I assume that means there won't be.

If it turns out that way I think its a shame because the cover kits made the EK pumps the equal of, or even better than the pricey and under performing BP kits.




The plastic cover of the new version looks good ... but not quite in the same league as the full covers.

Maybe if enough people ask for it they could release a new version that could include a different rubber pump sleeve and whatever else is needed. I assume a new aluminium lock ring would be needed too.


----------



## akira749

EK releases GIGABYTE GTX 980 Ti WF3 Full-Cover water block


----------



## barsh90

Is there any free shipping coupons available for the WB store?


----------



## Bear304

EK is currently shipping my new EK XRes 140 Revo D5 for my update to my water loop, and i got my EK XE 360 radiator today, and i think i have made a fix for EK XE end-tank issues, but adding a few washers to the screws









http://www.overclock.net/t/1573271/ek-coolstream-xe-360-endtank-fix

Also got an EK block on my GTX 970 G1 and a sadly cracked Supremacy Evo plexy i have ordered a full nickel replacement top for it


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barsh90*
> 
> Is there any free shipping coupons available for the WB store?


No we don't


----------



## barsh90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No we don't


Ah ok. Do you know when performancepcs will get their batch of waterblocks to start ordering? They don't have any in stock atm.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barsh90*
> 
> Ah ok. Do you know when performancepcs will get their batch of waterblocks to start ordering? They don't have any in stock atm.


Call them and ask if what you want is in stock. The count online is not always correct. I very recently placed an order and one of the items was listed as OOS on their website and it shipped.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases GIGABYTE GTX 980 Ti WF3 Full-Cover water block


Full length acrylic...... Sexy


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I think this photo will explain it better


When is this version coming out. I have decided to sell my Dual DDC v2 with pumps(cycled for ~1yr between the two pumps via FC3 RheoSmart) to simplify my loop mounting location.

Going D5 boys!









~Ceadder


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> When is this version coming out. I have decided to sell my Dual DDC v2 with pumps(cycled for ~1yr between the two pumps via FC3 RheoSmart) to simplify my loop mounting location.
> 
> Going D5 boys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


https://shop.ekwb.com/pumps/pumps/ek-d5-series-pumps


----------



## Ceadderman

Do you know when PPCs is getting them? If I have to I will get them direct but the shipping would be murder on my system budget since I am in Washington state. Shipping from PPCs is bad enough. From Slovenia?







ouch.

Hmmm, well I guess it's not really that bad for a pump complete with top. ~$25.









~Ceadder


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Do you know when PPCs is getting them? If I have to I will get them direct but the shipping would be murder on my system budget since I am in Washington state. Shipping from PPCs is bad enough. From Slovenia?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ouch.
> 
> ~Ceadder


That would be an excellent question to ask PPC via email and let the rest of us know the answer


----------



## El Scotch

Hooked up FC terminal; leaked all over everything.


----------



## funfordcobra

Did you remember orings?


----------



## zerophase

I've been hearing the occasional loud creak and groan coming from my system. I believe it's coming from my XE radiators. Should I be worried about the shroud screws penetrating the chambers?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Scotch*
> 
> Hooked up FC terminal; leaked all over everything.


From where exactly on the terminal?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I've been hearing the occasional loud creak and groan coming from my system. I believe it's coming from my XE radiators. Should I be worried about the shroud screws penetrating the chambers?


What's "creak and groan"??


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> From where exactly on the terminal?
> What's "creak and groan"??


It's like a loud pop coming from the system. It almost sounds like a piece of metal hitting against another piece of metal.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> It's like a loud pop coming from the system. It almost sounds like a piece of metal hitting against another piece of metal.


I get that with my HL rads. The metal expands and contracts with heat load. Kind of like baseboard heaters but slightly higher pitched?


----------



## kizwan

Wow! That is very extreme. Can you record a video?


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I get that with my HL rads. The metal expands and contracts with heat load. Kind of like baseboard heaters but slightly higher pitched?


It's just xtreme systems has an article on the rads getting punctured by the shroud screws. Just hope it's not bumping into those while expanding.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I get that with my HL rads. The metal expands and contracts with heat load. Kind of like baseboard heaters but slightly higher pitched?


I believe it. I have two hwl rads and I don't get groaning but occasional creaks. Guaranteed to happen once I put load on two or three cards.


----------



## Ceadderman

Never heard a thing with my HWLabs 360 Stealth. Not doubting just saying.









~Ceadder


----------



## El Scotch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> From where exactly on the terminal?


O-ring set for one shifted when installing the terminal. Dried everything out, reassembled and working fine now.


----------



## funfordcobra

Haha I figured that happened. =)


----------



## El Scotch

Once again reminding me why I use distilled water and nothing else.


----------



## funfordcobra

Was it leaking a lot? When my terminal came, it came with 1 oring missing. I installed it anyway and just used abit of Teflon. It leaked about a full drop or two during the week I waited for a replacement to get here from EK.

I literally could not find that oring anywhere in the Dallas area.


----------



## El Scotch

One block had no o-rings in place, so yes. It was quite a bit. I was watching though so I caught it fairly quickly.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Scotch*
> 
> Once again reminding me why I use distilled water and nothing else.


I've always used Distilled Water myself...









But, I put some PT Nuke in it, as per it's directions...

Don't like colored water either, I use colored tubing and a colored res...

Don't want the hassle of cleaning out dye...


----------



## Ceadderman

One of the reasons I only run Distilled. No additives to worry about.

Hopefully introducing 20+ Monsoon silver plated bases won't affect anything in my loop.

Brass? Check.
Copper? 4 blocks. Check.
Nickel plate? 1 block. Check.

Distelled & 0 additives. Wal*Mart brand and reviewed as the best unless someone has seen another review suggesting something else. Check.

~Ceadder


----------



## funfordcobra

Are EK cooling solutions non conductive? It says low on the bottle.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Scotch*
> 
> One block had no o-rings in place, so yes. It was quite a bit. I was watching though so I caught it fairly quickly.


You might consider putting together a pressure gauge and "leak" testing using air...


----------



## Ceadderman

I second this. No way that loop would hold a 6lb pressure for even a few seconds.

~Ceadder


----------



## huhh

Anyone have issues with the serial dual 3 slot csq bridge orings being to small and not fitting in the oring slots? I had to use orings from my serial dual bridge which were a bit bigger.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Scotch*
> 
> O-ring set for one shifted when installing the terminal. Dried everything out, reassembled and working fine now.


Good to hear!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huhh*
> 
> Anyone have issues with the serial dual 3 slot csq bridge orings being to small and not fitting in the oring slots? I had to use orings from my serial dual bridge which were a bit bigger.


I never heard any issues with it but it could happen. Did you purchased it new from our webshop?


----------



## huhh

Yes brand new from the Web shop. Here's a pic of the issue, left is the orings that came with my dual and right is the orings from the dual 3 slot. I've tried pushing them in but they just pop back out and make it impossible to get a seal on my cards.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huhh*
> 
> Yes brand new from the Web shop. Here's a pic of the issue, left is the orings that came with my dual and right is the orings from the dual 3 slot. I've tried pushing them in but they just pop back out and make it impossible to get a seal on my cards.


Silicone grease should work to keep them in place afaik.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yep. You should be able to find silicon *pump* grease at most any shop dealing with garden pond pumps. Home Depot, Lowes, Ace etc.

But the problem near as I can tell is that the seals are smaller than they're supposed to be and no grease will solve that since they'll simply snap back into shape during mounting process. Just like a rubber band will.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huhh*
> 
> Yes brand new from the Web shop. Here's a pic of the issue, left is the orings that came with my dual and right is the orings from the dual 3 slot. I've tried pushing them in but they just pop back out and make it impossible to get a seal on my cards.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's unfortunate....sorry about that









Just open a ticket on our support page (http://support.ekwb.com/) and explain them the situation like you explained it here and provide the pictures.

They will send you some new o-rings


----------



## deafboy

The bridge mounts can definitely be a pain at times. A game of getting things on before the o-rings get out of place, lol.


----------



## huhh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yep. You should be able to find silicon *pump* grease at most any shop dealing with garden pond pumps. Home Depot, Lowes, Ace etc.
> 
> But the problem near as I can tell is that the seals are smaller than they're supposed to be and no grease will solve that since they'll simply snap back into shape during mounting process. Just like a rubber band will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yup, exactly what's happening.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> The bridge mounts can definitely be a pain at times. A game of getting things on before the o-rings get out of place, lol.


With the other orings it went on the first try.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> That's unfortunate....sorry about that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just open a ticket on our support page (http://support.ekwb.com/) and explain them the situation like you explained it here and provide the pictures.
> 
> They will send you some new o-rings


I opened a ticket, thanks for the help. Thankfully the other orings fit so i can keep moving on my build.


----------



## donkimizer

Is EK planning to make waterblock for R9 Nano?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huhh*
> 
> I opened a ticket, thanks for the help. Thankfully the other orings fit so i can keep moving on my build.


Cool!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donkimizer*
> 
> Is EK planning to make waterblock for R9 Nano?


Yes


----------



## TheEnfusedBird

Hey just finished building my PC.
I'm so happy with how it turned out here are some pics

Here are the specs:
[email protected] 4.8 60 degrees under load.
Gigabyte ud3 990fxa rev 4
8gb sniper gskill 1600 ddr3
Sapphire 290x tri-x
Evga 750 semi modular bronze PSU
Nzxt phantom 530
EK L360 2.0
Samsung 840 250gb sad
2x 350gb hdds

That's it if u wanna know what keyboard and mouse ask.
Thanks guys for helping out I am so happy with this build hope u like it



Im going to buy a Ek Thermosphere soon but don't know iwhat heat sinks to buy for VRM and where they would go? I use the Site PLE Computers and PC Case Gear


----------



## Ceadderman

Whatever you do, go with copper heatsinks if you can. I didn't and there is nothing wrong with my heatinks but if Swiftec made them full coverage heatsinks of copper I would snapped those up instead.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

EK releases MSI GTX 980 Ti TF5 Full-Cover water block


----------



## Kranik

Hey, I have another question relating to my work in the D Frame Mini.

I just got the D5 X3 pump/res combo intending to mount it as is done in the D Frame Mini drop in kit, but it looks like the Uni-Holder in the drop in kit is different than the one that comes with the the stand alone D5 X3 kit.

My question is, is it possible to get the Uni-Mount from the D Frame Mini drop in kit separately?

Thanks in advance. Trying to get this build wrapped before law school ramps up.

Edit: Figured I should add a photo to show it off a bit as it sits right now. Lot's of EK product! Left my DSLR in Phoenix so a phone shoot will have to do.


----------



## Willius

DDC acrilyc pump top is EOL. I think I bought the last one yesterday from EK's website.

Updated version incoming?

The acetal is EOL too, checked a second ago.


----------



## emsj86

Whaaaaat I'm sure there is a new one but the "old" pump tops looked good. I hope it's not round and kept squared


----------



## Ceadderman

I rather like the new round top. It's also less material from what I could see. iBruce got one with a Res top an it looks fantastic.









~Ceadder


----------



## Willius

Sadly I got an email that the DDC Plexi isn't avaible anymore. So I asked if there will be a new version! Let's see what they reply with!


----------



## smicha

Question to EK - any chance that the dual top for D5 will be back to a production line?


----------



## theirlaw

Anyone able to take a picture of a black HDC fitting next to another black EK fitting (adapter, extender, etc). I want to get an idea of what the colour diffierence between standard black and Elox black actually looks like.


----------



## theirlaw

Duplicate post. Please delete.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> Sadly I got an email that the DDC Plexi isn't avaible anymore. So I asked if there will be a new version! Let's see what they reply with!


We should have something to replace our DDC line soon.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Question to EK - any chance that the dual top for D5 will be back to a production line?


We are working on this with our new REVO line.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We are working on this with our new REVO line.


So does that mean it will look like boobs?


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We should have something to replace our DDC line soon.
> We are working on this with our new REVO line.


I got contacted by EK Customer support, and i got a few options to choose from.
Everything is sorted!


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We are working on this with our new REVO line.


Any ETA for this?


----------



## Archea47

Any intention to make strictly BYOB(lock) predators? Thinking about guys who already have AIO but want to cool their mobo VRMs for overclocking

Something like a 120.1 or 120.2 predator with hoses that terminate on QDCs and comes with two extra QDCs, some clamps, maybe fittings for the block side

AQ has something similar sans QDC but $$$


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Any ETA for this?


No not for now. It's in the design phase.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Any intention to make strictly BYOB(lock) predators? Thinking about guys who already have AIO but want to cool their mobo VRMs for overclocking
> 
> Something like a 120.1 or 120.2 predator with hoses that terminate on QDCs and comes with two extra QDCs, some clamps, maybe fittings for the block side
> 
> AQ has something similar sans QDC but $$$


Not that I heard of.

The Predator line is an AIO CPU cooler in the first place. We added the possibility of adding one GPU block on the Predator 360 via the QDC but I don't think we will go with a "BYOB" solution since it will tend to be more like a custom loop kinda thing and we already offer products for this kind of thing


----------



## tiborrr12

EK-FC R9 Nano, out Monday, Sep 21st 2015:


----------



## MadPolygon

Got some sweet stuff yesterday


----------



## kaistledine

Thought id post my mass of stuff from EK used in my build ! LOG HERE






Very impressed with all the EK parts I must say . Be using them for my New GPU blocks when the time comes !


----------



## Dave6531

Do you guys use the supplied ek tim and thermal pads or do you use some other on your water blocks for cpu and gpu?


----------



## MadPolygon

Can't say anything about the EK paste, since my block hasn't arrived yet. But I bought some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, which I'm gonna use. There's a test somewhere and the kryonaut performed the best, only liquid metal was better.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadPolygon*
> 
> Can't say anything about the EK paste, since my block hasn't arrived yet. But I bought some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, which I'm gonna use. There's a test somewhere and the kryonaut performed the best, only liquid metal was better.


Saw one yesterday comparison for a bunch and thermal grizzly was mid pack with ek


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Do you guys use the supplied ek tim and thermal pads or do you use some other on your water blocks for cpu and gpu?


TIM, no (except when they provide GC Extreme with the CPU blocks, then yes). Thermal pads, yes. I looked into different pads and the consensus was that unless you're doing extreme OCing, it doesn't really matter.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> TIM, no (except when they provide GC Extreme with the CPU blocks, then yes). Thermal pads, yes. I looked into different pads and the consensus was that unless you're doing extreme OCing, it doesn't really matter.


So what TIM do you use?


----------



## MadPolygon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Saw one yesterday comparison for a bunch and thermal grizzly was mid pack with ek


Don't know which test you saw, but here is the one I referred to: http://overclocking.guide/thermal-paste-roundup-2015-47-products-tested-with-air-cooling-and-liquid-nitrogen-ln2/6/


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadPolygon*
> 
> Don't know which test you saw, but here is the one I referred to: http://overclocking.guide/thermal-paste-roundup-2015-47-products-tested-with-air-cooling-and-liquid-nitrogen-ln2/6/


Haven't seen that one but interesting, I'll see if I can find the one I saw. On TIM subject curious to see how cryorigs new TIM stacks up.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Wow! That is very extreme. Can you record a video?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> So what TIM do you use?


I went with the Coolerlabs Liquid Metal Pads for my GPUs die. They were a little fragile (fold and tear easily), but if you are careful, really easy to install. I get great temps too, 39C max gaming. And never been over 50C stressing my whole system. For everything else I used the Ek provided thermal pads with a drop of the ek TIM.


----------



## Dave6531

So here's the link I saw http://www.play3r.net/reviews/cooling/thermal-paste-comparison-2015-best-thermal-paste/3/

Got the two mixed at stock clock ek TIM does better than grizzly but OC Grizzly does better.


----------



## MadPolygon

If you're not going for every last bit temperature wise it propably doesn't really matter anyways as high end pastes are mostly pretty close together. I'll see how the kryonaut performs, when all parts have arrived


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> So what TIM do you use?


GC Extreme. I may switch to Kryonaut once mine runs out (might be a while).


----------



## EthanKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaistledine*
> 
> Thought id post my mass of stuff from EK used in my build ! LOG HERE
> 
> Very impressed with all the EK parts I must say . Be using them for my New GPU blocks when the time comes !


So you got the black 90degree fittings I wanted but are out of stock now for 3 weeks









I had to settle for Black Nickel but think it will look really odd with Elox Black compression fittings.


----------



## Ceadderman

And both those reviews lack substance.

Now I am not saying that they are the best, but being as they were Reviewed as the best there were a few missing TIM that quite honestly *should* have been included.

imho you don't leave out the reigning champs simply because they're old.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> EK-FC R9 Nano, out Monday, Sep 21st 2015:


Annnndddd looks I'll be getting an AMD NANO. Looks great!

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## MadPolygon

Cleaning my rad right now. Only used distilled water so far.

Can I use citric acid? The one I have home is labeled as descaler and contains citric acid, lactic acid and malic acid. What mixing ratio should I aim for?


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Annnndddd looks I'll be getting an AMD NANO. Looks great!
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


Count me in too!


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadPolygon*
> 
> Cleaning my rad right now. Only used distilled water so far.
> Can I use citric acid? The one I have home is labeled as descaler and contains citric acid, lactic acid and malic acid. What mixing ratio should I aim for?


FWIW Mayhem's Blitz1 rad cleaner is phosphoric acid agent with 2.2 pH. I think the research would be to see if the Flux and copper salts are citric acid soluble (I'm not a chemist)


----------



## EthanKing

What can be used to clean new rads?

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> What can be used to clean new rads?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


http://mayhems.co.uk/store/mayhems-blitz-pro.html


----------



## EthanKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> What can be used to clean new rads?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> http://mayhems.co.uk/store/mayhems-blitz-pro.html
Click to expand...

Thanks for the rapid response.

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> What can be used to clean new rads?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


For new rads, just fill with tap water and shake. Do this into a clean bowl enough times to not get any sediment/particles out. Final rinse or two with distilled.


----------



## EthanKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> What can be used to clean new rads?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> For new rads, just fill with tap water and shake. Do this into a clean bowl enough times to not get any sediment/particles out. Final rinse or two with distilled.
Click to expand...

Ahh thanks. I actually have already done that but have yet to rinse with distilled. Just wasn't sure if it was enough.

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## tiborrr12

More red stuff:


----------



## Georgey123

That monoblock looks sweet. If there was one made for the x99 deluxe, I would have bought it in a heartbeat


----------



## EthanKing

For an EK Rep:

I received an E-mail about my order saying my fittings were out of stock for 3 weeks or I could choose another color. My question is this, Is replying directly to that E-mail enough or do I need to contact EKWB by a specific E-mail address?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> For an EK Rep:
> 
> I received an E-mail about my order saying my fittings were out of stock for 3 weeks or I could choose another color. My question is this, Is replying directly to that E-mail enough or do I need to contact EKWB by a specific E-mail address?


Simply reply to the email


----------



## EthanKing

Thanks. Done that this morning and have not got a reply yet. Order is still processing.

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> What can be used to clean new rads?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> For new rads, just fill with tap water and shake. Do this into a clean bowl enough times to not get any sediment/particles out. Final rinse or two with distilled.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ahh thanks. I actually have already done that but have yet to rinse with distilled. Just wasn't sure if it was enough.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

What I did is connect the radiator to faucet with a tube, then run tap water through it & after few minutes reverse the direction (as in connect the tube to the other port). Watch out your household water pressure. Then fill the radiator with hot water & shake it (I did it a couple of times). Finally flush with distilled water.


----------



## Ceadderman

I wouldn't even do that with my own worst enemy's Radiators here. We have some pretty funky calcification that no amount of distilled would be able to rinse out.

It's best to hot flush with distilled instead. Any leftover Flux will be removed in the process. Especially if one lives in a high calcification zone.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wouldn't even do that with my own worst enemy's Radiators here. We have some pretty funky calcification that no amount of distilled would be able to rinse out.
> 
> It's best to hot flush with distilled instead. Any leftover Flux will be removed in the process. Especially if one lives in a high calcification zone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Depends on if you run it thorugh a filter or not before really, but yeah you dont want to introduce a ton of minerals to your loop.


----------



## MadPolygon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wouldn't even do that with my own worst enemy's Radiators here. We have some pretty funky calcification that no amount of distilled would be able to rinse out.
> 
> It's best to hot flush with distilled instead. Any leftover Flux will be removed in the process. Especially if one lives in a high calcification zone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What temp should I aim for, when heating up the distilled water?


----------



## akira749

EK introduces monoblock for MSI Z170A Gaming M7 motherboard


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadPolygon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wouldn't even do that with my own worst enemy's Radiators here. We have some pretty funky calcification that no amount of distilled would be able to rinse out.
> 
> It's best to hot flush with distilled instead. Any leftover Flux will be removed in the process. Especially if one lives in a high calcification zone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What temp should I aim for, when heating up the distilled water?
Click to expand...

I boil mine in the nuker. So whenever your water boils in the microwave is when it's hot enough. The idea is to clean any Flux. Not to melt the solder holding everything together. The leftover Flux should be able to be cleared at that temp.









~Ceadder


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> What can be used to clean new rads?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> For new rads, just fill with tap water and shake. Do this into a clean bowl enough times to not get any sediment/particles out. Final rinse or two with distilled.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ahh thanks. I actually have already done that but have yet to rinse with distilled. Just wasn't sure if it was enough.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What I did is connect the radiator to faucet with a tube, then run tap water through it & after few minutes reverse the direction (as in connect the tube to the other port). Watch out your household water pressure. Then fill the radiator with hot water & shake it (I did it a couple of times). Finally flush with distilled water.
Click to expand...

I followed this guide to clean my rads. Worked great for me.

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/


----------



## MadPolygon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I boil mine in the nuker. So whenever your water boils in the microwave is when it's hot enough. The idea is to clean any Flux. Not to melt the solder holding everything together. The leftover Flux should be able to be cleared at that temp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Good, mine seems to be clean now


----------



## dilster97

Ordered a EK XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM.

Can't wait for it to show. Was going to try and score the older D5 version but fancied a res that was actually clean and a good pump.


----------



## MrMD

Random question,I currently have a thermosphere on my MSI 970,i plan on grabbing a 2nd one.If i got a fullcover block and put it on the 2nd 970 could i use a terminal to connect the cards or to use a terminal would i have to use a Thermosphere on both cards?


----------



## Ceadderman

You can use a full cover and Thermos here so long as both require 3 mounting screws to mate the connection port to the block. If it requires one screw then no it will not work. I am reasonably sure it will work but the best way to be sure is to look at the terminal to make sure.









~Ceadder


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You can use a full cover and Thermos here so long as both require 3 mounting screws to mate the connection port to the block. If it requires one screw then no it will not work. I am reasonably sure it will work but the best way to be sure is to look at the terminal to make sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Excellent,i ty for the info m8


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Random question,I currently have a thermosphere on my MSI 970,i plan on grabbing a 2nd one.If i got a fullcover block and put it on the 2nd 970 could i use a terminal to connect the cards or to use a terminal would i have to use a Thermosphere on both cards?


I'm not sure that both terminals would line up. Maybe @EK_tiborrr could tell you more than me.

Which full block are you looking at? it will help to answer the question.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> More red stuff:


So does this mean we're going to start seeing monoblocks for more motherboards? Like say the soc force that's supposedly coming out this month? ^_^


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Random question,I currently have a thermosphere on my MSI 970,i plan on grabbing a 2nd one.If i got a fullcover block and put it on the 2nd 970 could i use a terminal to connect the cards or to use a terminal would i have to use a Thermosphere on both cards?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure that both terminals would line up. Maybe @EK_tiborrr could tell you more than me.
> 
> Which full block are you looking at? it will help to answer the question.
Click to expand...

Good Poin Akira but am pretty sure they will line up. Thermosphere is just as wide as the bridge connector. About the only way I don't see it lining up is if the FC block has an offset connection. Relatively sure (we know how much trouble that can get me into) that the connection is directly outboard from the GPU like the Thermosphere is. I could be wrong though.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I boil mine in the nuker. So whenever your water boils in the microwave is when it's hot enough. The idea is to clean any Flux. Not to melt the solder holding everything together. The leftover Flux should be able to be cleared at that temp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That is really dangerous and why I don't recommend people clean rads with distilled water.
Distilled water, with no impurities, can get hotter than normal boiling point. When it's taken out of the microwave and anything touches it, it explodes in steam and boiling water.


----------



## smicha

Will I be able to mount a new D5 top onto a vertical fan but 90 deg rotated so that the inlet is facing up? Is the bracket
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical
fine for such orientation or shall I use this one

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan



PS. STAY TUNED GUYS FOR QUAD TITAN X ON WATER WORKSTATION


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/p5nUKV5Sj

Got my top, will be using my other 250 Blue Bitspower top though, with matching Black end caps.


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/p5nUKV5Sj
> 
> Got my top, will be using my other 250 Blue Bitspower top though, with matching Black end caps.


that looks super nice


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Will I be able to mount a new D5 top onto a vertical fan but 90 deg rotated so that the inlet is facing up? Is the bracket
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical
> fine for such orientation or shall I use this one
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan
> 
> 
> 
> PS. STAY TUNED GUYS FOR QUAD TITAN X ON WATER WORKSTATION


Yes, that is what i'm going to be doing.


----------



## smicha

Look good - I have same res to come.

But I meant mounting the holder on a vertical fan, not horizontal.


----------



## smicha

khemist - thanks! I am getting two of these for 4 titans X


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I'm not sure that both terminals would line up. Maybe @EK_tiborrr could tell you more than me.
> 
> Which full block are you looking at? it will help to answer the question.


Not any1 in particular,just which ever FC one i could source for the cheapest and is compatible.Just got a 144hz monitor and i cant handle the potato graphics settings for 144hz FPS lol







So just trying to figure out the cheapest way to get a 2nd card and get it plugged into my loop


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Look good - I have same res to come.
> 
> But I meant mounting the holder on a vertical fan, not horizontal.


I know what you mean, just turn the bracket around the other way, i only have it that way so it would stand up for the pic.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I boil mine in the nuker. So whenever your water boils in the microwave is when it's hot enough. The idea is to clean any Flux. Not to melt the solder holding everything together. The leftover Flux should be able to be cleared at that temp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is really dangerous and why I don't recommend people clean rads with distilled water.
> Distilled water, with no impurities, can get hotter than normal boiling point. When it's taken out of the microwave and anything touches it, it explodes in steam and boiling water.
Click to expand...

If you put it in a Pyrex measuring cup and watch it while nuking it, there should be no issues at all.

I always use boiled distilled to flush my Rads because calcified water will cause buildup. Boiled or not.

~Ceadder


----------



## Jakusonfire

The local tap water will not do any damage to rads in the extremely short time its in there, that's excessively paranoid.

Boiling distilled is dangerous .... notice the type of container used towards the end, and how does watching help? There is nothing to see til it erupts in your face.


----------



## EthanKing

Does an EK-Rep mind taking a look at an order I placed on the 15th to see why it's still processing? Let me know if that's possible and I will post the order number here.

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## kizwan

The "oldest" radiators in my loop are more than two years old. I followed Martins's guide when flushing my rads & no calcification build up whatsoever. I also don't have problems with coolant changing color either. I mean just filling the rads with distilled & shake it is not enough to properly cleaning the rads.

I have same worriedness with tap water before (for flushing the rads after using the Blitz) & I was told it's non-issue especially the final flushing will be done using distilled. You can find my post in Mayhems club thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> Does an EK-Rep mind taking a look at an order I placed on the 15th to see why it's still processing? Let me know if that's possible and I will post the order number here.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


I think it's better to email the customer support directly. Mine also processing almost a week but mine was contained items not in stock.


----------



## EthanKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The "oldest" radiators in my loop are more than two years old. I followed Martins's guide when flushing my rads & no calcification build up whatsoever. I also don't have problems with coolant changing color either. I mean just filling the rads with distilled & shake it is not enough to properly cleaning the rads.
> 
> I have same worriedness with tap water before (for flushing the rads after using the Blitz) & I was told it's non-issue especially the final flushing will be done using distilled. You can find my post in Mayhems club thread.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> Does an EK-Rep mind taking a look at an order I placed on the 15th to see why it's still processing? Let me know if that's possible and I will post the order number here.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I think it's better to email the customer support directly. Mine also processing almost a week but mine was contained items not in stock.
Click to expand...

Thanks for answering.

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## scorpscarx

I use a hot, not boiling or anywhere near, mixture of distilled(or tap) and a small amount of vinegar to flush my rads. By hand and just tilt it around, and soon through a small loop that I'm gonna dedicate to flushing. Works awesome.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> Does an EK-Rep mind taking a look at an order I placed on the 15th to see why it's still processing? Let me know if that's possible and I will post the order number here.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I think it's better to email the customer support directly. Mine also processing almost a week but mine was contained items not in stock.


Kizwan is right. Since we don't have access to the ordering system, contaction the customer support is the best. ([email protected])


----------



## Wozzathelad

So...I screwed up, literally. Fitted a Monarch RAM block and a Supremacy EVO to my ASUS VII Hero. Last piece to go on was the mosfet waterblock.

I managed to lose the bag of M3x8 screws / washers that came with it, so I bought some new M3x8s and some plastic washers. I screwed in the M3's from the back of the motherboard and all was going well until the screws kept turning, as if I'd threaded the thread on the block.

After gently unscrewing the screws, they were loose but wouldn't come out. The block was loose enough to lift it slightly, which I did to see what the obstruction was. The block then came completely away from the mobo!.. In the screw holes on the mobo, and still attached to the screws themsleves, were three nickel standoffs that seemed to have come away from the block. Here's a pic of where they're supposed to be



I didn't realize that the three threads in the block were not actually part of it. They act like stand offs and fit into three concave recesses. There's no sign of adhesive keeping them there, and after I'd got the screws out of the mobo, I can't see any way of re-attaching the threads to the block.

Other than gluing them back in, which I'm thinking is a bad idea, have I killed the mosfet block?.


----------



## Ceadderman

OMG I am never boiling water in the microwave again.









Watching for the beginnings of boil state is why you look. Try applying some critical thought. Boiling distilled in the microwave won't hurt you. If you're worried about it then hit stop when you see it boiling and wait a minute or so. It will still be hot enough to clear Flux from a Radiator.









If anything is going to happen after boiling it's going to occur in the microwave.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> OMG I am never boiling water in the microwave again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watching for the beginnings of boil state is why you look. Try applying some critical thought. Boiling distilled in the microwave won't hurt you. If you're worried about it then hit stop when you see it boiling and wait a minute or so. It will still be hot enough to clear Flux from a Radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anything is going to happen after boiling it's going to occur in the microwave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What part of it does not boil is skipping that critical thought process.

Its happening in the microwave because they don't want to risk handling it.

You are advising people to do something dangerous.

This isn't in the microwave ... and point out what you are looking for to indicate its temp.


----------



## BrjSan

Wonder why EK has no angled fittings multilink for rigid tubing







..... that would make things more easier ... at least for a lot of people (MYSELF INCLUDED







).

peace)


----------



## joztdarb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Wonder why EK has no angled fittings for rigid tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... that would make things more easier ... at least for a lot of people (MYSELF INCLUDED
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> peace)


Don't rigid tubing fittings use the same G1/4" threads as normal hose fittings? Wouldn't that make them compatible with the angled fittings already available from EK?


----------



## BrjSan

Meant to say angled multi-link .... sorry my bad.

something like this



peace.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> OMG I am never boiling water in the microwave again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watching for the beginnings of boil state is why you look. Try applying some critical thought. Boiling distilled in the microwave won't hurt you. If you're worried about it then hit stop when you see it boiling and wait a minute or so. It will still be hot enough to clear Flux from a Radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anything is going to happen after boiling it's going to occur in the microwave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What part of it does not boil is skipping that critical thought process.
> 
> Its happening in the microwave because they don't want to risk handling it.
> 
> You are advising people to do something dangerous.
> 
> This isn't in the microwave ... and point out what you are looking for to indicate its temp.
Click to expand...

Well if OCN never hears from me again you can chalk it up to my stupidity of boiling distilled water using a microwave. Natural selection at work I guess.









I should do a Video journal every time so my wife can give my farewells with something visual.









~Ceadder


----------



## RnRollie

Normally, if you buy a brand microwave, it comes with a glass/pyrex rod, which most people have no idea what it is about.
But its there for exactly that reason.. whenever you want to heat/boil any liquid (in a cup), you should use this rod.. it will make sure the liquid boils IN the cup; not "explode" afterwards when touched.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Normally, if you buy a brand microwave, it comes with a glass/pyrex rod, which most people have no idea what it is about.
> But its there for exactly that reason.. whenever you want to heat/boil any liquid (in a cup), you should use this rod.. it will make sure the liquid boils IN the cup; not "explode" afterwards when touched.


Don't think our pricey brand microwave came with that. Either way, distilled always boils a little in my microwave( maybe caused by impurities on the glassware?)


----------



## Malik




----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wozzathelad*
> 
> So...I screwed up, literally. Fitted a Monarch RAM block and a Supremacy EVO to my ASUS VII Hero. Last piece to go on was the mosfet waterblock.
> 
> I managed to lose the bag of M3x8 screws / washers that came with it, so I bought some new M3x8s and some plastic washers. I screwed in the M3's from the back of the motherboard and all was going well until the screws kept turning, as if I'd threaded the thread on the block.
> 
> After gently unscrewing the screws, they were loose but wouldn't come out. The block was loose enough to lift it slightly, which I did to see what the obstruction was. The block then came completely away from the mobo!.. In the screw holes on the mobo, and still attached to the screws themsleves, were three nickel standoffs that seemed to have come away from the block. Here's a pic of where they're supposed to be
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize that the three threads in the block were not actually part of it. They act like stand offs and fit into three concave recesses. There's no sign of adhesive keeping them there, and after I'd got the screws out of the mobo, I can't see any way of re-attaching the threads to the block.
> 
> Other than gluing them back in, which I'm thinking is a bad idea, have I killed the mosfet block?.


The little standoffs aren't glued there. They are screwed in the waterblock. Are you able to screw them back in place?


----------



## akira749

EK releases AMD Radeon R9 Nano Full-Cover water block


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Normally, if you buy a brand microwave, it comes with a glass/pyrex rod, which most people have no idea what it is about.
> But its there for exactly that reason.. whenever you want to heat/boil any liquid (in a cup), you should use this rod.. it will make sure the liquid boils IN the cup; not "explode" afterwards when touched.


Hmmm, never seen that here in Au. I wouldn't have expected the general public to do enough distilled heating for something like that to be a thing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well if OCN never hears from me again you can chalk it up to my stupidity of boiling distilled water using a microwave. Natural selection at work I guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should do a Video journal every time so my wife can give my farewells with something visual.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nobody really cares what you do with with your water, or microwave, or special sensitive radiators that catch cooties from water.

what a lot of us do care about is getting accurate and useful info on these pages. Many people read these threads besides the ones that post and many more in the future will as they search for particular information.
Instead of cranking the ego, dismissing the risk and providing more and more supposed ways to alleviate it that don't actually address the issue you could just recognise that its not all about you. Its about all the beginners and young people reading.

There are people that roll their eyes and dismiss the need for wearing eye protection, seatbelts, helmets etc etc and they always know better than everyone too.
Ugghhh, why should I have to reach over and put a seatbelt on to reduce the injury in a crash

Ugghhh, why shouldn't I tell unsuspecting people on the internet to heat water in a way that can potentially superheat it and cause them serious injury.

Instead you could always simply post something like ... OK, it works fine for me but anyone else maybe take some precautions.
Its not hard to do when its not all about yourself.


----------



## ppkstat

Hello,

I am looking for a X99 waterblock for my 5820k and I am considering supremacy evo. I read somewhere (can't find it now) that there are reports of poor x99 performance with this block due to its mounting mechanism. I also see that there is version specifically made for x99 with a diferent (i think) mounting mechanism. Is this any better? I'd really prefer to buy the original evo due to greater compatibility. Plus I prefer copper-acetal blocks.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> I read somewhere (can't find it now) that there are reports of poor x99 performance with this block due to its mounting mechanism. I also see that there is version specifically made for x99 with a diferent (i think) mounting mechanism. Is this any better? I'd really prefer to buy the original evo due to greater compatibility. Plus I prefer copper-acetal blocks.


Ha. Bulls%$#.









Supremacy EVO is the best performing water block for both LGA-115x and 2011-3 platform: http://thermalbench.com/2015/05/07/ek-supremacy-evo-full-nickel-cpu-waterblock

Period. Whatever version you buy it performs the same.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014/0_20

and










http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/06/17/ek-supremacy-mx-review/3/


----------



## ppkstat

An according to this testing do you actually recommend for the block to be placed in the 'goofy' instead of regular position?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> An according to this testing do you actually recommend for the block to be placed in the 'goofy' instead of regular position?


From Summer water block round-up 2014

"Best water block orientation as tested in this review is:
- Alphacool NexXxos XP3 Light: Normal / Does not matter
- Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos PRO: Normal / Does not matter
- Bitspower Summit EF: 90° CCW
- EK-Supremacy: 90° CCW
- EK-Supremacy EVO: 90° CCW
- EK-Supreme LTX CSQ: 90° CW or CCW
- Koolance CPU-370: 90° CCW
- Koolance CPU-380I: 90° CCW
- Swiftech Apogee HD: Normal / Does not matter
- Swiftech Apogee XL: 90° CW or CCW
- Phobya UC-2 LT: 90° CCW
- XSPC Raystorm: 90° CCW
- Watercool Heatkiller 3.0: 90° CCW"


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Hey, I have another question relating to my work in the D Frame Mini.
> 
> I just got the D5 X3 pump/res combo intending to mount it as is done in the D Frame Mini drop in kit, but it looks like the Uni-Holder in the drop in kit is different than the one that comes with the the stand alone D5 X3 kit.
> 
> My question is, is it possible to get the Uni-Mount from the D Frame Mini drop in kit separately?
> 
> Thanks in advance. Trying to get this build wrapped before law school ramps up.


I'm going to quote myself to provide a follow up now that I've talked to EK support a bit. Igor, the support tech I've been speaking with has said that the EK Uni-Holder v2 that I received with my X3 kit should be the same as both the v3 model and the one that is included in the D-Frame Mini kit and therefore should be a straight fit.

I don't know if I'm inept or if there's some sort of misunderstanding between Igor and myself but there isn't a single set of holes on my D-Frame Mini that match up with the holes in the Uni-Holder. Can I get some guidance here? The EK assembly instructions show a third hole on the D5 Uni-Holder but Igor said that that was in error, that all the D5 Uni-Holders are the same. What am I missing here?


----------



## tiborrr12

Igor has it wrong, you are right.


----------



## Wozzathelad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The little standoffs aren't glued there. They are screwed in the waterblock. Are you able to screw them back in place?


Thanks for the reply Akira. It's odd but only one of the standoffs can screw back in. The holes that the others would screw in to are smooth with no thread. I realize now, that I didn't replace that standard mobo backplate before offering up the screws. That allowed too much of the screw length to enter the block and has literally twisted the threads out of the water block.

That'll teach me for working on the PC after too little sleep the night before!. Totally my fault and I've ordered a replacement from the web shop. Any idea how long orders are taking to process?.


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Igor has it wrong, you are right.


Ok, not crazy, which is good! +rep. That leads to my original question then: is it possible to get/buy from you guys the Uni-Holder used in the D-Frame Mini kit? I'll pay whatever I need to, within reason.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Normally, if you buy a brand microwave, it comes with a glass/pyrex rod, which most people have no idea what it is about.
> But its there for exactly that reason.. whenever you want to heat/boil any liquid (in a cup), you should use this rod.. it will make sure the liquid boils IN the cup; not "explode" afterwards when touched.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm, never seen that here in Au. I wouldn't have expected the general public to do enough distilled heating for something like that to be a thing.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well if OCN never hears from me again you can chalk it up to my stupidity of boiling distilled water using a microwave. Natural selection at work I guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should do a Video journal every time so my wife can give my farewells with something visual.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nobody really cares what you do with with your water, or microwave, or special sensitive radiators that catch cooties from water.
> 
> what a lot of us do care about is getting accurate and useful info on these pages. Many people read these threads besides the ones that post and many more in the future will as they search for particular information.
> Instead of cranking the ego, dismissing the risk and providing more and more supposed ways to alleviate it that don't actually address the issue you could just recognise that its not all about you. Its about all the beginners and young people reading.
> 
> There are people that roll their eyes and dismiss the need for wearing eye protection, seatbelts, helmets etc etc and they always know better than everyone too.
> Ugghhh, why should I have to reach over and put a seatbelt on to reduce the injury in a crash
> 
> Ugghhh, why shouldn't I tell unsuspecting people on the internet to heat water in a way that can potentially superheat it and cause them serious injury.
> 
> Instead you could always simply post something like ... OK, it works fine for me but anyone else maybe take some precautions.
> Its not hard to do when its not all about yourself.
Click to expand...

Never once acted like it "was all about me". I'm not even taking this personal because I like you want to post knowledgeable factual informative facts.

I cannot help it if people cannot take reasonable safety steps to accomplish a task such as boiling distilled in the microwave. It doesn't take long (maybe a minute or so depending on the size of the container. That ends as water being near or at the temp of boiling. Apologies if you're taking me quite literal and I realize that what I said could be taken that way. But heating water in a microwave is not dangerous so long as you do so using common sense.

And no I am not one for running round a table with scissors pointing in the air either.

My bad and hopefully this conversation doesn't offend your sensibilities any further. If it does just PM me and we can continue off thread so as to not further derail the thread.









~Ceadder


----------



## Archea47

I cleaned my rads (acool) in the past by pumping distilled through and had gunk in my blocks. So then I stayed using hot water and I want sure if it made a difference but I had much less 'gunk'

This build I used Mayhems Blitz Pro. Probably not necessary to use their specific mix but the Part1, which I believe is a pH 2.2 phosphoric acid solution, cleaned my new and old rads to the point they looked shiny inside (wash was room temperature). I'd rather not pay the premium Mayhems but I'll be cleaning my radiators with acid from now on.

Be careful about how long to leave the acid in for and make sure to flush a couple times


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wozzathelad*
> 
> Thanks for the reply Akira. It's odd but only one of the standoffs can screw back in. The holes that the others would screw in to are smooth with no thread. I realize now, that I didn't replace that standard mobo backplate before offering up the screws. That allowed too much of the screw length to enter the block and has literally twisted the threads out of the water block.
> 
> That'll teach me for working on the PC after too little sleep the night before!. Totally my fault and I've ordered a replacement from the web shop. Any idea how long orders are taking to process?.


If the item is in stock, it usually take a few days to process until shipment.


----------



## QuantumX

Hi guys,

I bought a Supremacy EVO Full Nickel after the plexi of my Supremacy MX cracked by the inlet port and was leaking. I would like to ask the following:

1) Does it come with the additional jetplates, if so which one would be the best for Skylake?

2) Can I use the backplate of the MX as it really decent and gives a very solid mount? I like the idea of it completely replacing the stock motherboard backplate

3) Which orientation would be best? 90deg CCW or normal?

Sorry for if this has been answered before, I'm at work though so all images on the links I followed for temp graphs about the rotation and jetplates are blocked by our firewall









Thanks in advance for any responses


----------



## d0mmie

A 90 degree CCW placement of the CPU block means the inlet port will be at the bottom and outlet at the top, right? If not could someone explain a bit further


----------



## QuantumX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> A 90 degree CCW placement of the CPU block means the inlet port will be at the bottom and outlet at the top, right? If not could someone explain a bit further


I believe that is the "normal" mount. 90deg CCW is when the oulet port is on the left. But I'm also speaking under correction


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuantumX*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I bought a Supremacy EVO Full Nickel after the plexi of my Supremacy MX cracked by the inlet port and was leaking. I would like to ask the following:
> 
> 1) Does it come with the additional jetplates, if so which one would be the best for Skylake?


My Supremacy EVO Full Nickel didn't come with any additional jet plates. I looked on the EK website and no mention of spares was mentioned.
Quote:


> 2) Can I use the backplate of the MX as it really decent and gives a very solid mount? I like the idea of it completely replacing the stock motherboard backplate


My mobo's backplate was pretty much built in and nicely solid, I didn't try to change it. So no help to you there.
Quote:


> 3) Which orientation would be best? 90deg CCW or normal?


I looked at a bunch of reviews, and for Haswell-E, 90° CCW (also called "goofy") seemed to give the best results, where other cpu series did better with normal. But the differences were pretty small, the other benefit of goofy for me was easier tubing routing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuantumX*
> 
> I believe that is the "normal" mount. 90deg CCW is when the oulet port is on the left. But I'm also speaking under correction


No, normal is with the ports in a L-R configuration, goofy is up-down.

Here's my goofy:


----------



## QuantumX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Here's my goofy:


Awesome thanks! Pictures are always the easiest way to explain









I had my MX that way so that's good. Makes sense to mount it that way as the water channels will run parallel with the CPU core


----------



## kl6mk6

IMO, the orientation should be based on what will look best in your build and let the water flow the correct way. Its not worth compramising the look of your build for 1-3C. That being said, here are some better pics of orientation.

Normal...



90 Degrees CCW...


----------



## JourneymanMike

Hey guys, I'd like to know if there's a Discount Code for the EKWB store?

TIA - Mike


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> IMO, the orientation should be based on what will look best in your build and let the water flow the correct way. Its not worth compramising the look of your build for 1-3C. That being said, here are some better pics of orientation.
> 
> Normal...
> 
> 
> 
> 90 Degrees CCW...


Agreed, doing mine in normal because of the look and not because of performance. Then again, it's difficult to do a parallel loop in "goofy" so for me it's a no brainer.


----------



## Willius

Today i got the XE 240 rad directly from EK. And sadly its quite battered.




Its hard to see, but there is some black marker to cover up some scratch.

I have three PE 240 radiators. And they where all picobello when I got them.
As long as it won't leak it's fine I guess. It will be placed out of sight in a pedestal.

edit: typo


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Here's my goofy:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> IMO, the orientation should be based on what will look best in your build and let the water flow the correct way. Its not worth compramising the look of your build for 1-3C. That being said, here are some better pics of orientation.
> 
> Normal...
> 
> 
> 
> 90 Degrees CCW...


If this is reversed (OUT in bottom and IN in above), there is a big difference in performance?

Thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuantumX*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I bought a Supremacy EVO Full Nickel after the plexi of my Supremacy MX cracked by the inlet port and was leaking. I would like to ask the following:
> 
> 1) Does it come with the additional jetplates, if so which one would be the best for Skylake?
> 
> 2) Can I use the backplate of the MX as it really decent and gives a very solid mount? I like the idea of it completely replacing the stock motherboard backplate
> 
> 3) Which orientation would be best? 90deg CCW or normal?
> 
> Sorry for if this has been answered before, I'm at work though so all images on the links I followed for temp graphs about the rotation and jetplates are blocked by our firewall
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any responses


Yes it comes with extra jet plates and inserts.

I would go with Jet Plate 2 for Skylake...but maybe others will have better answers about that









I'm not sure you can use the MX backplate but since you already have it, I would test it first to see if the mounting mechanism of the EVO will screw in the backplate.

On Haswell and Skylake, the orientation won't have a big difference in temps so it's up to you. On the 2011 (v3 included) sockets, there's a slight improvement with a goofy setup (0 to 2 degrees celcius)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> My Supremacy EVO Full Nickel didn't come with any additional jet plates. I looked on the EK website and no mention of spares was mentioned.


You have the normal EVO or the EVO X99?? The normal EVO should have come with extra jet plates.


----------



## Ceadderman

My Supreme HF is Goofy by default. Have to say that it looks cleaner in Goofy over Normal. But that's just me.









~Ceadder


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You have the normal EVO or the EVO X99?? The normal EVO should have come with extra jet plates.


Sorry, I knew there was some descriptor I was leaving out - yes, I have X99 EVO.

While we're on it, which jet plate/aperture comes installed in the X99? I'm not changing anything, just curious.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Sorry, I knew there was some descriptor I was leaving out - yes, I have X99 EVO.
> 
> While we're on it, which jet plate/aperture comes installed in the X99? I'm not changing anything, just curious.


Insert 2 and Jet Plate 3


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Insert 2 and Jet Plate 3


+1, Thanks!


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> If this is reversed (OUT in bottom and IN in above), there is a big difference in performance?
> 
> Thanks


It should be about the same. In the test I looked at the difference was ~1C for the different orientations for the supremacy block. I'm assuming the EVO is about the same difference.



SOURCE


----------



## tistou77

Ok thanks


----------



## Anateus

Has anyone here polished monarch RAM blocks? I have one frosted block waiting to be sanded. Is there anything I need to know that hasnt been covered by lowfat?

Like, he says get rid of all machine marks, but always sand it on a flat surface. How do I sand the channels then?
Also, can I use polish that's made for car varnish/paint (was told it should work with acrylic, but I rather check here)


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Ok, not crazy, which is good! +rep. That leads to my original question then: is it possible to get/buy from you guys the Uni-Holder used in the D-Frame Mini kit? I'll pay whatever I need to, within reason.


Should I go through Igor to see about getting the bracket or can you help @EK_tiborrr?


----------



## snef

GO HABS GO! Charity Update

start modding ram and CPU block to the theme


----------



## emsj86

One word flyers. But that is very nice looking


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> *One word flyers*. But that is very nice looking


It's not even a word! it's a symbol...


----------



## emsj86

It's life around here


----------



## MadPolygon

I got the Supremacy Evo Block 2 days ago and I noticed that the 2 extra jetplates have some corrosion (I think) on them (one has more, one less).

I didn't inspect the preinstalled plate yet, but I will do later and also will post some photos.

Is it possible to get replacements, if someone can confirm that it would be harmful to my loop?

On that note, is the preinstalled plate the recommended one for 1551?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadPolygon*
> 
> I got the Supremacy Evo Block 2 days ago and I noticed that the 2 extra jetplates have some corrosion (I think) on them (one has more, one less).
> I didn't inspect the preinstalled plate yet, but I will do later and also will post some photos.
> 
> Is it possible to get replacements, if someone can confirm that it would be harmful to my loop?
> 
> On that note, is the preinstalled plate the recommended one for 1551?


The Jet Plates are made of Stainless Steel so it might only be dirt and not rust. Can you double-check?

The pre-installed ones are the best fit for 115x CPU's


----------



## akira749

Our line of EK-RAM has been revised a little bit. Here's the info









New EK-RAM Monarch X2 blocks and updates!


----------



## MadPolygon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The Jet Plates are made of Stainless Steel so it might only be dirt and not rust. Can you double-check?
> 
> The pre-installed ones are the best fit for 115x CPU's


Thanks for the info. I'll take a second look later and upload photos, but it looked like it was "in" the material.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Our line of EK-RAM has been revised a little bit. Here's the info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New EK-RAM Monarch X2 blocks and updates!


So nice, no more circles on plexi block


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Our line of EK-RAM has been revised a little bit. Here's the info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New EK-RAM Monarch X2 blocks and updates!


That's Pretty Clean!

TCO


----------



## MadPolygon

So after a closer look I think those plates are lasercut, right? Because all three plates have that "mark" and I think it's just the start and end point of the laser cutter.

But have alook yourself:


----------



## sinnedone

Yeah that's not rust, just a miscalibration or something in the machinery. I'd ask for a replacement as mine did not look like that at all.


----------



## snef




----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadPolygon*
> 
> So after a closer look I think those plates are lasercut, right? Because all three plates have that "mark" and I think it's just the start and end point of the laser cutter.
> But have alook yourself:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would open a ticket (http://support.ekwb.com/) and ask for another set of Jet Plates. Don't forget to attach those pictures in your ticket.


----------



## SteezyTN

Is there any update on when the new 140ER revisions will be available? PPCS said I could keep mine (which are faulty) until they receive the revised ones.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Is there any update on when the new 140ER revisions will be available? PPCS said I could keep mine (which are faulty) until they receive the revised ones.


I have no updates on this but I will try to know


----------



## dilster97

Opened up the EK XRES 140 D5 Revo. Man it is a nice looking res. I could have probably went for any DDC pump but i wanted to have the best.

Hopefully the other litre of coolant arrives tomorrow so that i can see how it performs pumping through a 1260mm rad and a GPU block.


----------



## MadPolygon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I would open a ticket (http://support.ekwb.com/) and ask for another set of Jet Plates. Don't forget to attach those pictures in your ticket.


Ok, I will do that. Thank you


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> I read somewhere (can't find it now) that there are reports of poor x99 performance with this block due to its mounting mechanism. I also see that there is version specifically made for x99 with a diferent (i think) mounting mechanism. Is this any better? I'd really prefer to buy the original evo due to greater compatibility. Plus I prefer copper-acetal blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> Ha. Bulls%$#.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supremacy EVO is the best performing water block for both LGA-115x and 2011-3 platform: http://thermalbench.com/2015/05/07/ek-supremacy-evo-full-nickel-cpu-waterblock
> 
> Period. Whatever version you buy it performs the same.
Click to expand...

Except there is this little thing called the Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos .925 Stirling Silver Edition


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Except there is this little thing called the *Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos .925 Stirling Silver Edition*


Wow! Very classy!

Sterling needs to be taken care of, more often than other materials...

I know, I have an set of Kirk Old Maryland Engraved sterling silver dinnerware... it fades and needs to be polished quite often...

Unless this water block is coated with something, didn't have time to read the details...


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Except there is this little thing called the *Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos .925 Stirling Silver Edition*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow! Very classy!
> 
> Sterling needs to be taken care of, more often than other materials...
> 
> I know, I have an set of Kirk Old Maryland Engraved sterling silver dinnerware... it fades and needs to be polished quite often...
> 
> Unless this water block is coated with something, didn't have time to read the details...
Click to expand...

Its the bottom base/cold plate which is Silver... you could get it with a Delrin top if you wanted to








But that would be a bit like having a _"my other car is a YUGO"_ sticker on your Ferrari/Porsche/Corvette









http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2829

Combine this with a lapped CPU, some LM TIM and nothing comes close except maybe delidding









Either way, enough hijack.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Except there is this little thing called the Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos .925 Stirling Silver Edition


It still won't outperform any of the newer blocks. One thing Aquacomputer needs is an updated CPU block design.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It still won't outperform any of the newer blocks. One thing Aquacomputer needs is an updated CPU block design.


It looks real pretty, but it won't out perform my Supremacy EVO Red Edition...

Does anything out perform the Supremacy EVO?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Does anything out perform the Supremacy EVO?


Heatkiller IV probably does, or is a strong contender anyway, but we're talking about fractions of a degree here, so much depends on CPU type, mount, etc.


----------



## Kronos8

I recently desided to go with watercooling and 2 days ago I got in my hands the first components, aka a D5 pump without the front cover and an EK-XRES 140 Aketal (the older version, not the new REVO). Within the box of the X-RES there were 4 screws to secure the pump, allthough the top has place for 8. I crosschecked on youtube and I noticed that in one video at least (



) there were indeed 8 screws in the package. Can anyone confirm this? Of course I can mount the pump with just the 4 screws, but as a noob I prefere to ask this, although it does sound a ... silly question. Will there be a problem with just 4 screws or I should try to find 4 more? Thanks in advance for any reply and sorry for my English, not my native language.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

@Kronos8 - There should be 8 screws with rounded heads in the package, securing the plate that holds the pump in place. In addition, there are 4 screws with rubber stands used to mount the reservoir assembly to the holder. If you're missing any of those, I'd definitely contact retailer where to bought it.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kronos8*
> 
> I recently desided to go with watercooling and 2 days ago I got in my hands the first components, aka a D5 pump without the front cover and an EK-XRES 140 Aketal (the older version, not the new REVO). Within the box of the X-RES there were 4 screws to secure the pump, allthough the top has place for 8. I crosschecked on youtube and I noticed that in one video at least (
> 
> 
> 
> ) there were indeed 8 screws in the package. Can anyone confirm this? Of course I can mount the pump with just the 4 screws, but as a noob I prefere to ask this, although it does sound a ... silly question. Will there be a problem with just 4 screws or I should try to find 4 more? Thanks in advance for any reply and *sorry for my English*, not my native language.


You have some nice stuff for a start in WC'ing...









You need the 8 screws, you need them to ensure that it's leak free...

Your English is just fine...









Welcome to OCN!


----------



## Kronos8

Thank you both for your reply. I do have the 4 screws with rubber stands but unfortunatelly only 4 screws to secure the pump. I think I will proceed with pump testing (that was my intension) and try to find 4 more screws. The package was definitely sealed, I dont think the retailer should be acccused for the missing bolts...

Thanks again for your replies...


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kronos8*
> 
> Thank you both for your reply. I do have the 4 screws with rubber stands but unfortunatelly only 4 screws to secure the pump. I think I will proceed with pump testing (that was my intension) and try to find 4 more screws. The package was definitely sealed, I dont think the retailer should be acccused for the missing bolts...
> 
> Thanks again for your replies...


Hardware store will have what you need, M4 x 16...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kronos8*
> 
> Thank you both for your reply. I do have the 4 screws with rubber stands but unfortunatelly only 4 screws to secure the pump. I think I will proceed with pump testing (that was my intension) and try to find 4 more screws. The package was definitely sealed, I dont think the retailer should be acccused for the missing bolts...
> 
> Thanks again for your replies...


You can open a ticket on the EK Support Page and they will send you the missing screws.

Here's the link : http://support.ekwb.com/


----------



## Kronos8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Hardware store will have what you need, M4 x 16...


That's exactly what I was thinking









@ akira749
thank you for your suggestion, but I really think a manhour spent for this issue doesn't worth it.
I'll go to the Hardware store.
I just hope I don't have any issues with the EVO waterblock I expect.
The motherboard will take several days/weeks to be ordered......


----------



## Anateus

You guys could make this thing a little bigger, also why mine was so cut in some places (Corners)? I actually covered most of the backplate with tape. Heard enough horror stories about this backplate for Impact


----------



## Anateus

Delete


----------



## KickAssCop

I pre ordered a 360 EK predator since it had free shipping so 240 shipped to my door. Good choice?
I don't know why I did it though since my Corsair H110i GT is serving me well.


----------



## Malik




----------



## EthanKing

So how do I get this to look like it does in the pictures? https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-ekoolant-pastel-orange-concentrate-250ml

Followed instructions exactly but mine looks dull and peachy instead of the bright, vibrant orange shown.

Edit: Mine is exactly this colour


----------



## QuantumX

My Supremacy EVO Full Nickel arrived yesterday.

It came with the different jetplates and inserts so I'm happy with that









I used jetplate 2 and mounted it with the normal "rotation".

I also swapped the mounting mechanism from the MX on to the EVO and it mounted perfectly on the MX backplate.

Temps are amazing! Delidded 6700K @ 4.7GHz 1.376v only 53C running Prime95 Small FFT's


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuantumX*
> 
> My Supremacy EVO Full Nickel arrived yesterday.
> 
> It came with the different jetplates and inserts so I'm happy with that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used jetplate 2 and mounted it with the normal "rotation".
> 
> I also swapped the mounting mechanism from the MX on to the EVO and it mounted perfectly on the MX backplate.
> 
> Temps are amazing! Delidded 6700K @ 4.7GHz 1.376v only 53C running Prime95 Small FFT's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome!!


----------



## andrej124

Hi guys! Since I work for EK, here is my personal rig. Nothing too extreme, except using all EK parts









Feel free to ask me anything.


----------



## mus1mus

Since your personal rig is a...
Is there a chance we can get a better looking AMD mounting bracket for the CPU Blocks?


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys! Since I work for EK, here is my personal rig. Nothing too extreme, except using all EK parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel free to ask me anything.


I like it. I'm about to order some stuff from you guys. I'm just going with the https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-kit-x360 and a full cover waterblock and backplate for my 295x2. I was kind of hoping I could swap out some of the parts but I understand why you guys don't allow that.

How do you like that blue coolant? I am thinking about buying the blood red dye but everyone says dye is bad.


----------



## akira749

EK releases EVGA K|NGP|N Edition GeForce GTX 980 Ti water blocks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Since your personal rig is a...
> Is there a chance we can get a better looking AMD mounting bracket for the CPU Blocks?


I actually like their AMD bracket. There isn't muche you can do with a Rectangular 4 point bracket that only mounts in two ways.

~Ceadder


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I actually like their AMD bracket. There isn't muche you can do with a Rectangular 4 point bracket that only mounts in two ways.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah. IJK.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I actually like their AMD bracket. There isn't muche you can do with a Rectangular 4 point bracket that only mounts in two ways.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah. IJK.
Click to expand...









IKR.









~Ceadder


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I actually like their AMD bracket. There isn't muche you can do with a Rectangular 4 point bracket that only mounts in two ways.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah. IJK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IKR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...




Spoiler: Someone however managed to pull this off:


----------



## Ceadderman

Not really, considering that bracket attaches differently to that block than EKs mounting bracket. Sure they could punch holes in the bracket before the finishing is applied but then... meh let's just agree to disagree.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

After the refresh of our D5 line with our new Revo line, here's our refresh for the DDC line









EK releases new DDC Elite series of pumps and reservoir combos


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> Hi guys! Since I work for EK, here is my personal rig. Nothing too extreme, except using all EK parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel free to ask me anything.


You open by saying that you use *brand that isn't the company you work for* and wait for many replies.


----------



## sinnedone

Some product placement


----------



## zerophase

Is sleeving the DDC pump wires basically the same as sleeving any other wire? I just slide a sleeve on?


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Is sleeving the DDC pump wires basically the same as sleeving any other wire? I just slide a sleeve on?


Yep...Here's one of my DDC combos.

http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/l...Labs Mercury S3/IMG_5101_zps859e266a.jpg.html

In the meantime, got the new Revo placement laid out. Think it will look great once I fill it!


----------



## d0mmie

I've seem to hit a dilemma as I bought an EKWB Supremacy MX - Acetal from Coolerkit and wanted to use this block with my ASUS Sabertooth X99 motherboard, however upon inspection the four holes where the block gets screwed into are solid! It seems ASUS did the same thing as Gigabyte and ASRock, by not adhering to Intel's standard for socket 2011 mounting as well. This means this water block is completely useless to me since the mounting screws are too long and will hit the motherboard, due to this combined socket 1150/55/56 and 2011 mount system EK came up with. And it's even listed on the EKWB site as compatible with my motherboard. Worst part is I can't even return this as I bought it 18 days ago (only got 14 days return).

So what can I do now? According to Coolerkit, there are no optional mounting accessories for this block available.


----------



## funfordcobra

Copper washers don't help?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I've seem to hit a dilemma as I bought an EKWB Supremacy MX - Acetal from Coolerkit and wanted to use this block with my ASUS Sabertooth X99 motherboard, however upon inspection the four holes where the block gets screwed into are solid! It seems ASUS did the same thing as Gigabyte and ASRock, by not adhering to Intel's standard for socket 2011 mounting as well. This means this water block is completely useless to me since the mounting screws are too long and will hit the motherboard, due to this combined socket 1150/55/56 and 2011 mount system EK came up with. And it's even listed on the EKWB site as compatible with my motherboard. Worst part is I can't even return this as I bought it 18 days ago (only got 14 days return).
> 
> So what can I do now? According to Coolerkit, there are no optional mounting accessories for this block available.


Um... the mount locations for socket 2011 and socket 2011-3 have a sort of "stop thread" feature. The holes for the mounts aren't supposed to go all the way through the board. Refer to the socket 2011 mounting instructions. They will show you that you don't use a backplate. Intel standards on socket 2011 don't have the threads all the way through the board.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Um... the mount locations for socket 2011 and socket 2011-3 have a sort of "stop thread" feature. The holes for the mounts aren't supposed to go all the way through the board. Refer to the socket 2011 mounting instructions. They will show you that you don't use a backplate. Intel standards on socket 2011 don't have the threads all the way through the board.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


No the backplate isn't being used at all, but the screws are longer than normal 2011 screws so they fit in socket 1150/55/56 mounts as well (thinner thread on the tip), which means that thread will hit the base of the motherboard unless I actually saw them off (and I don't have the proper tools for that). It's the same problem with the EK Predator AIO right now, which will not mount on most X99 Gigabyte, Asrock, or ASUS boards.


----------



## kizwan

*- EK-Supremacy MX is not compatible with LGA-2011-3 motherboards that do not have mounting holes through the circuit board*

That's too bad. @d0mmie are you sure the mounting holes doesn't go through the circuit board on the Sabertooth? Sometime they just put a thin film there to cover the holes which make you think the screws are going to hit the circuit board. You should be able to confirm this if you check at the back of the motherboard.


----------



## Rahldrac

So I have both a EK-RES X3 400 and 250. I have been using them with a DCP 4.0 so far. But now I want to change to a D5 for aesthetic reasons. But I can not find the bottom part that connect the D5 to the res?


----------



## MIGhunter

Couple of questions for you awesome ppl.

I was planning on buying the following components.

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-kit-x360

To that I was going to add

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-coolstream-xe-240-double

and a

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-r9-295x2-acetal-nickel

Question 1. With the added radiator and the GPU block, am I only going to need to add 4 additional compression fittings?
Question 2. The 295x2 backplate is end of life! How do I get one? Isn't it kind of needed?
Question 3. How come when I use the configurator it shows the 295x2 cheaper than the main page?


----------



## stanielz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Couple of questions for you awesome ppl.
> 
> I was planning on buying the following components.
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-kit-x360
> 
> To that I was going to add
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-coolstream-xe-240-double
> 
> and a
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-r9-295x2-acetal-nickel
> 
> Question 1. With the added radiator and the GPU block, am I only going to need to add 4 additional compression fittings?
> Question 2. The 295x2 backplate is end of life! How do I get one? Isn't it kind of needed?
> Question 3. How come when I use the configurator it shows the 295x2 cheaper than the main page?


I JUST did this but with a L240 kit and a titan x block.

1. 4 additional fittings yes, 2 for the new radiator and 2 for the block. the other 6 should be included in the kit (2 for rad, 2 for cpu block, 2 for pump/res combo) total = 10
2. i'm not familiar with the 295x2 but if its like the titan x. backplate is more of a cosmetic thing. it adds passive cooling and can shield your gpu if you leak from above it. but functionally speaking not required.
3. im guessing one of the 2 is outdated.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Couple of questions for you awesome ppl.
> 
> I was planning on buying the following components.
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-kit-x360
> 
> To that I was going to add
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-coolstream-xe-240-double
> 
> and a
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-r9-295x2-acetal-nickel
> 
> Question 1. With the added radiator and the GPU block, am I only going to need to add 4 additional compression fittings?
> Question 2. The 295x2 backplate is end of life! How do I get one? Isn't it kind of needed?
> Question 3. How come when I use the configurator it shows the 295x2 cheaper than the main page?


I'll try answering a few of those for you:
Question1: The kit's usually include all the needed fittigns for a basic loop, which means you have everything you need for the CPU loop with the radiator, reservoir, pump and CPU block. then if you want to add more components you will need two fitting for each of those, and since you wanted a block and a radiator then that means 4 fitting. So yes, you don't need more than 4 more compression fittings to go with those components, just remember to get the same size as the ones in the kit since that will let you use the tubing from the kit in the entire loop. You may want to look at some angled adapters though if you have some runs in mind, but they are usually not needed and are mosly an aestetics thing.

Question2: The blocks work fine without the backaplate, the screws that come with them are designed to fit without a backplate mounted (the backplate comes with seperate longer screws usually).

Question3: I have no clue... My guess though is that the coolingconfigurator shows the original price while the sore has a lower price since the product is closing in on an EOL status and they want to clear the stores of them.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanielz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I JUST did this but with a L240 kit and a titan x block.
> 
> 1. 4 additional fittings yes, 2 for the new radiator and 2 for the block. the other 6 should be included in the kit (2 for rad, 2 for cpu block, 2 for pump/res combo) total = 10
> 2. i'm not familiar with the 295x2 but if its like the titan x. backplate is more of a cosmetic thing. it adds passive cooling and can shield your gpu if you leak from above it. but functionally speaking not required.
> 3. im guessing one of the 2 is outdated.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try answering a few of those for you:
> Question1: The kit's usually include all the needed fittigns for a basic loop, which means you have everything you need for the CPU loop with the radiator, reservoir, pump and CPU block. then if you want to add more components you will need two fitting for each of those, and since you wanted a block and a radiator then that means 4 fitting. So yes, you don't need more than 4 more compression fittings to go with those components, just remember to get the same size as the ones in the kit since that will let you use the tubing from the kit in the entire loop. You may want to look at some angled adapters though if you have some runs in mind, but they are usually not needed and are mosly an aestetics thing.
> 
> Question2: The blocks work fine without the backaplate, the screws that come with them are designed to fit without a backplate mounted (the backplate comes with seperate longer screws usually).
> 
> Question3: I have no clue... My guess though is that the coolingconfigurator shows the original price while the sore has a lower price since the product is closing in on an EOL status and they want to clear the stores of them.


Thanks. I just realized I am dumb. That price in the configurator is the Euros price. When I click on the product it converts it to USD.

Thanks for the info.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I've seem to hit a dilemma as I bought an EKWB Supremacy MX - Acetal from Coolerkit and wanted to use this block with my ASUS Sabertooth X99 motherboard, however upon inspection the four holes where the block gets screwed into are solid! It seems ASUS did the same thing as Gigabyte and ASRock, by not adhering to Intel's standard for socket 2011 mounting as well. This means this water block is completely useless to me since the mounting screws are too long and will hit the motherboard, due to this combined socket 1150/55/56 and 2011 mount system EK came up with. And it's even listed on the EKWB site as compatible with my motherboard. Worst part is I can't even return this as I bought it 18 days ago (only got 14 days return).
> 
> So what can I do now? According to Coolerkit, there are no optional mounting accessories for this block available.


You can buy this : EK-XLC Predator LGA-2011 Screw Set

It will solve your issue.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> So I have both a EK-RES X3 400 and 250. I have been using them with a DCP 4.0 so far. But now I want to change to a D5 for aesthetic reasons. But I can not find the bottom part that connect the D5 to the res?


So if I understand, you would like to "fabricate" a pump/res combo from your EK-RES X3?


----------



## Rahldrac

Hi Akira, and thanks for the fast Answer!
I want to have something like: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump .


----------



## smicha

NEW EK STUFF installed


http://www.overclock.net/t/1575635/biuld-log-watercooled-4-titan-x-workstation


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> NEW EK STUFF installed
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1575635/biuld-log-watercooled-4-titan-x-workstation


workstation, what the heck do you do lol


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Hi Akira, and thanks for the fast Answer!
> I want to have something like: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump .


We don't sell the pump/res attachement seperately. Sorry


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> NEW EK STUFF installed
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1575635/biuld-log-watercooled-4-titan-x-workstation


I like those backplates a lot. That is very pretty.


----------



## Panther Al

Does anyone know of anybody that still has the old dual D5 Pump top for sale?

Was planning on having that unit as the pump setup for my build and they are all gone from my usual suspects.


----------



## snef




----------



## Jakusonfire

Thats gorgeous Snef, well done. The dark coolant looks great.

You must nearly be single handedly keeping Bitspower out of white paint!


----------



## dilster97

The black coolant looks so nice.


----------



## smicha

EK - please bring back (or design a new one) dual D5 top - the new single one works great but is painful joining them together.
PS. Pay more attention to Quality Control - one backplate was packed with too small screws, to one waterblock I could not apply two screws (thread/screw was misaligned with a titan X PCB).


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> EK - please bring back (or design a new one) dual D5 top - the new single one works great but is painful joining them together.


Already in prototyping phase


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Already in prototyping phase


Great. It would be great to put them on one fan bracket (with left or right or central alignment)


----------



## tiborrr12

Of course


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Already in prototyping phase


Just make sure the dual top doesn't look like boobies and you'll be good to go.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Just make sure the dual top doesn't look like boobies and you'll be good to go.


Joke thief http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/12520_20#post_24420319


----------



## ESSE

....................JUST ARRIVED !


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Joke thief http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/12520_20#post_24420319


Lol didn't see your post, but funny is funny.









(besides my picture looks better







lol )


----------



## MadPolygon

Does anyone have some ideas for reducing vibrations with the Vardar fans? I can hear the vibration quite a bit around 1000-1100 RPM.


----------



## neo565

Dual Supremacy EVOs in my workstation:


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ESSE*
> 
> ....................JUST ARRIVED !


Glad to see nice clean full cover plexi

Might rethink AC on the next build


----------



## MIGhunter

Anyone here have a backplate for a 295x2 they don't need anymore? Can't find one anywhere since it's EOL and I don't want to use another brand


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadPolygon*
> 
> Does anyone have some ideas for reducing vibrations with the Vardar fans? I can hear the vibration quite a bit around 1000-1100 RPM.


Have you considered Phobya 120 shroud/dampeners? They are 7mm thick but they do squish to about 5mm (+/-) with a little tension applied. And they add some distance between the hub and radiator to aid in cooling. I use Koolance 38mm fan studs so for me that extra thickness between the Radiator is nothing. I simply crank down the nuts and the bodies of the fans apply even pressure to the dampeners. I have been using them with Yat Loon 20mm thick 120s and rarely ever hear my fans making vibration noise.









~Ceadder


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> EK - please bring back (or design a new one) dual D5 top - the new single one works great but is painful joining them together.
> 
> 
> 
> Already in prototyping phase
Click to expand...

I hope it will have a suitable mounting plate for installing on my S8 midplate, I'd like to have it showing behind the front window.
And a 100mm direct-mount reservoir, like the EK XRES 100 Revo D5, perhaps?


----------



## tiborrr12

Direct mount reservoir is out of the question due to the construction, but it will be able to utilize a RES X3 type reservoir.
A mounting bracket for 120/140mm fan hole pattern will be included.


----------



## MadPolygon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you considered Phobya 120 shroud/dampeners? They are 7mm thick but they do squish to about 5mm (+/-) with a little tension applied. And they add some distance between the hub and radiator to aid in cooling. I use Koolance 38mm fan studs so for me that extra thickness between the Radiator is nothing. I simply crank down the nuts and the bodies of the fans apply even pressure to the dampeners. I have been using them with Yat Loon 20mm thick 120s and rarely ever hear my fans making vibration noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I will have a look, thank you.

But there might be a problem with the thickness as will have the fans mounted outside at the front in my Define S. Maybe I'll try something like this: http://www.aquatuning.us/air-cooling/fans-decoupling/18664/noctua-nf-sav2-anti-vibrations-mounts?c=6626, at least for the front fans.


----------



## akira749

Something new in our lineup









EK is introducing special edition reservoir - EK-RES X4 250


----------



## BrjSan

Looks pretty nice. The glass is ...looks really nice.

Is the led strip detachable or hard wired?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Is the X3 res going to be EOL'd? The X4 looks... don't want to say anything bad but it looks hideous IMO.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Looks pretty nice. The glass is ...looks really nice.
> 
> Is the led strip detachable or hard wired?


Since you can adjust the LED strip placement, I would imagine it's also detachable.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Is the X3 res going to be EOL'd? The X4 looks... don't want to say anything bad but it looks hideous IMO.


No the X3 line is staying.









About the X4, you're allowed to have your own opinion about it. For me I think it's gorgeous. Just the simple fact that it's a fat 80mm wide reservoir is enough to have me loved it. My Koolance 80mm is still one of my favorite watercooling component I own.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> About the X4, you're allowed to have your own opinion about it. For me I think it's gorgeous. Just the simple fact that it's a fat 80mm wide reservoir is enough to have me loved it. My Koolance 80mm is still one of my favorite watercooling component I own.


Nice. I just received my X3 400 from PPCs yesterday and it looks A+. Cannot wait to put it in the system with my new Revo D5 top (that also looks amazing).

You have to say that about the X4 though, you work for EK


----------



## frank anderson

Got some new stuff, just wanted to show it off.









Monoblock Nickel + Plexi



EK FC Titan X on Zotac 980ti AMP!



Flushing


more flushing on test bench


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> You have to say that about the X4 though, you work for EK


I hate when people say this...

I'm a builder/enthusiast in the first place. I didn't start watercooling because I started working for EK. I have and still own watercooling components for other brands than EK you know...

People (i'm not saying that you do) hate representatives so much that they always think that we are biased. I'm probably less biased than some EK fanboy out there. But at the same time I can genuinely say that we have one of the best water blocks on the market right now.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I hate when people say this...
> 
> I'm a builder/enthusiast in the first place. I didn't start watercooling because I started working for EK. I have and still own watercooling components for other brands than EK you know...
> 
> People (i'm not saying that you do) hate representatives so much that they always think that we are biased. I'm probably less biased than some EK fanboy out there. But at the same time I can genuinely say that we have one of the best water blocks on the market right now.


I understand this, and Ek does have one of the best Waterblocks in terms of performance and looks ( I still love the CSQ Original look honestly)

But the X4 Res isn't as streamlined as I would hope for.

TCO


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I understand this, and Ek does have one of the best Waterblocks in terms of performance and looks ( I still love the CSQ Original look honestly)
> 
> But the X4 Res isn't as streamlined as I would hope for.
> 
> TCO


This is why the X3 line will stay and will still be the best seller


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> This is why the X3 line will stay and will still be the best seller


Good News









TCO


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I understand this, and Ek does have one of the best Waterblocks in terms of performance and looks ( I still love the CSQ Original look honestly)
> 
> But the X4 Res isn't as streamlined as I would hope for.
> 
> TCO


It's the top IMO. If that was more like the bottom I think it would look great but they made it look CAL-O like an Alphacool res: https://modmymods.com/alphacool-cape-corp-coolplex-pro-25-lt.html


----------



## muffins

hey guys. i ordered the ek-kit L120 r1 (it was on sell since its been refreshed) to use on my 980 ti poseidon. i'm wondering how should i connect my pump, radiator, and gpu?

i was thinking of going...

pump + reservoir combo --- > gpu --- > radiator

or should i go...

radiator --- > gpu --- > pump + reservoir combo


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muffins*
> 
> hey guys. i ordered the ek-kit L120 r1 (it was on sell since its been refreshed) to use on my 980 ti poseidon. i'm wondering how should i connect my pump, radiator, and gpu?
> 
> i was thinking of going...
> 
> pump + reservoir combo --- > gpu --- > radiator
> 
> or should i go...
> 
> radiator --- > gpu --- > pump + reservoir combo


It probably doesn't matter a lot, but my personal preference would have me go from radiator_out to the heat_source (GPU).


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muffins*
> 
> hey guys. i ordered the ek-kit L120 r1 (it was on sell since its been refreshed) to use on my 980 ti poseidon. i'm wondering how should i connect my pump, radiator, and gpu?
> 
> i was thinking of going...
> 
> pump + reservoir combo --- > gpu --- > radiator
> 
> or should i go...
> 
> radiator --- > gpu --- > pump + reservoir combo


Go with whatever looks best with the build.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muffins*
> 
> hey guys. i ordered the ek-kit L120 r1 (it was on sell since its been refreshed) to use on my 980 ti poseidon. i'm wondering how should i connect my pump, radiator, and gpu?
> 
> i was thinking of going...
> 
> pump + reservoir combo --- > gpu --- > radiator
> 
> or should i go...
> 
> radiator --- > gpu --- > pump + reservoir combo


That kit started my water cooling indulgence! Since it's only a 120 rad I would go rad first then gpu. Also go push pull on it as intake so it gets fresh ambient air. It dropped my cpu temp by 30 degrees, it should help your gpu.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Direct mount reservoir is out of the question due to the construction, but it will be able to utilize a RES X3 type reservoir.
> A mounting bracket for 120/140mm fan hole pattern will be included.


Well, looking forward to seeing it regardless.
Besides, it's impossible to find a new, previous-gen EK dual-D5 top for sale anywhere now.


----------



## MIGhunter

Sorry for the dumb question but I've not watercooled before.

Is it possible to put an https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-r9-295x2-acetal-nickel with this http://www.performance-pcs.com/brand--xspc/block-gpu-type--amd/ backplate?

Just not sure if the backplates screw into the waterblocks or how that works.


----------



## muffins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> That kit started my water cooling indulgence! Since it's only a 120 rad I would go rad first then gpu. Also go push pull on it as intake so it gets fresh ambient air. It dropped my cpu temp by 30 degrees, it should help your gpu.


it seems like a really nice kit for a 120mm and i picked up two noctua industrial 3000rpm 120mm fans for push / pull for it. i figured it should be more than enough for my poseidon 980 ti.

is there any reason why the rad show go to the gpu first? really new at this so thanks for any help


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muffins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> That kit started my water cooling indulgence! Since it's only a 120 rad I would go rad first then gpu. Also go push pull on it as intake so it gets fresh ambient air. It dropped my cpu temp by 30 degrees, it should help your gpu.
> 
> 
> 
> it seems like a really nice kit for a 120mm and i picked up two noctua industrial 3000rpm 120mm fans for push / pull for it. i figured it should be more than enough for my poseidon 980 ti.
> 
> is there any reason why the rad show go to the gpu first? really new at this so thanks for any help
Click to expand...

Well technically the temp coolant in the loop will equalize so it really doesn't matter the loop order. But it's just human nature to want to think that the coolant coming out of the rad is the lowest temp. So it's more of a mental thing than a factual thing.


----------



## RnRollie

what Radnad said ^^^^

Although... there *can* be as much as 2°C difference between "in" and "out" of the rad, depending on rad size, efficiency, Air-Water Delta, and other conditions.
Just like routing the loop through the GPU before the CPU can keep the CPU slightly warmer as it could be if you were to route CPU first before GPU.
But if that number or the little "local" variations freaks you out.... just ignore it. For sake of not going mad or getting overwhelmed by OCD or paranoia.. just ignore that little tidbit and assume equal temp throughout the loop.. it makes life & calculations SO much easier








Besides, if 2°C difference would mean the difference between an alive or dead CPU, then you're doing it wrong
















Just make sure Reservoir is before pump to ensure the pump gets fed all the time (dry pump=dead pump)
Dont forget to post final pics


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> It's the top IMO. If that was more like the bottom I think it would look great but they made it look *CAL-O* like an Alphacool res: https://modmymods.com/alphacool-cape-corp-coolplex-pro-25-lt.html


Did you just say that reservoir looks like a division of the Cyberathlete Amateur League from Counter-Strike? LOL Thanks for making my day.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Did you just say that reservoir looks like a division of the Cyberathlete Amateur League from Counter-Strike? LOL Thanks for making my day.


Yes


----------



## surfinchina

I've just ordered a 5960x with an EVGA micro 2 (sweet board!) and am putting it into an Inwin 901.
The issue is space. It's a very sexy case but badly designed. And no, don't tell me to get something practical, I love this case. I also want everything inside it, so no exterior rads or fans.

Anyway, it'll fit an EK coolstream XE 120 and I'll put a noctua industrial fan with it because that's what I use now and it's brilliant for rads, just a bit noisy if it's working hard.
Has anyone tried this rad with the 5960x?
I'm a bit concerned because it's evidently a super hot chip.
I can put another 120 in the case at a pinch, but it'll be the PE 120 - 45 as opposed to 60mm thick.

I won't be GPU watercooling because even though my GPU is an R9 390 with 8gb, I use it for 3D modelling and renders are in CPU (all cores). The GPU just needs loads of mem for the triangle counts moving around in the model, so it doesn't work hard.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> I've just ordered a 5960x with an EVGA micro 2 (sweet board!) and am putting it into an Inwin 901.
> The issue is space. It's a very sexy case but badly designed. And no, don't tell me to get something practical, I love this case. I also want everything inside it, so no exterior rads or fans.
> 
> Anyway, it'll fit an EK coolstream XE 120 and I'll put a noctua industrial fan with it because that's what I use now and it's brilliant for rads, just a bit noisy if it's working hard.
> Has anyone tried this rad with the 5960x?
> I'm a bit concerned because it's evidently a super hot chip.
> I can put another 120 in the case at a pinch, but it'll be the PE 120 - 45 as opposed to 60mm thick.
> 
> I won't be GPU watercooling because even though my GPU is an R9 390 with 8gb, I use it for 3D modelling and renders are in CPU (all cores). The GPU just needs loads of mem for the triangle counts moving around in the model, so it doesn't work hard.


You know that the InWin 901 is an mITX case and the EVGA Micro 2 is an mATX board?


----------



## corysti

I think its time for you to return the motherboard lol.


----------



## surfinchina

****. Can I swear in this forum? haha
I haven't bought the case yet so no damage done, but now I'm all upset.

X99 don't do mITX, so I'll just have to find another sexy case.
Or try to figure out a way to mod the 901, but given that it's tight already maybe I'll just cry myself to sleep and get over it.

Thanks for the post!!!


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> X99 don't do mITX


There is one:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157588

But there are sacrifices to be made in terms of features if you follow this route.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> ****. Can I swear in this forum? haha
> I haven't bought the case yet so no damage done, but now I'm all upset.
> 
> X99 don't do mITX, so I'll just have to find another sexy case.
> Or try to figure out a way to mod the 901, but given that it's tight already maybe I'll just cry myself to sleep and get over it.
> 
> Thanks for the post!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> There is one:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157588
> 
> But there are sacrifices to be made in terms of features if you follow this route.


Like cmpxchg8b already showed you, the only mITX X99 is the AsRock. If you go with this board and decide to get one of our CPU block, don't forget that you will need this mounting plate : Mounting plate Supremacy LGA-2011 Narrow ILM

Also, depending on the overclock you intend to put on the 5960X, the single XE rad could do the job. If you intend to overclock it more agressively, the second 120mm (PE or SE) would help.


----------



## surfinchina

Thanks for that.
Too many sacrifices. Putting a 5960 on that board would be a bit of a waste.
I still might find a way to mod the 901 or maybe the fractal design node will be ok. At least it has loads of room for rads. Maybe even my current one - the WE 360 will fit...
Save some money...


----------



## cmpxchg8b

I am actually amazed that EK made a mounting plate for narrow ILM. Pretty awesome!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> Thanks for that.
> Too many sacrifices. Putting a 5960 on that board would be a bit of a waste.
> I still might find a way to mod the 901 or maybe the fractal design node will be ok. At least it has loads of room for rads. Maybe even my current one - the WE 360 will fit...
> Save some money...


You're probably referring to the Node 804. This case offers you more versatility but the WE360 is a huge rad that won't fit in many cases.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> I am actually amazed that EK made a mounting plate for narrow ILM. Pretty awesome!


Yes, it's mostly used for the server motherboards


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Since you can adjust the LED strip placement, I would imagine it's also detachable.
> No the X3 line is staying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the X4, you're allowed to have your own opinion about it. For me I think it's gorgeous. Just the simple fact that it's a fat 80mm wide reservoir is enough to have me loved it. My Koolance 80mm is still one of my favorite watercooling component I own.


Ah don't listen to them so many unpleasant trolls at OCN, I think the X4 250 looks gorgeous, you gentleman at EK did a fine job, ordering mine tomorrow, driving over to PPCS for pickup Monday morning. Yea wish I didn't just buy a new XRES REVO 100, but that's how it goes.

Thanks EK, the super fat 80mm glass tube is a pure beast, with that soft white LED light surrounding the swirling coolant, yep had to have it for my current build.

I'll throw some pics up here Monday alongside the XRES REVO with the 140 tube, just as a size comparison, looking forward to modding my little S8S just to fit the new ginormous X4 into two compartments.

Great Job EK


----------



## sinnedone

Finally finished my build using EKWB products.













Build log HERE


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Finally finished my build using EKWB products.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build log HERE


Beauty!


----------



## skypine27

My first custom loop build so its not near as snazzy as some in this thread.

CPU: EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition CPU Waterblock - Intel 2011-3
GPUs: 2 x EK-FC Titan X/GTX980 Ti Waterblock - Nickel
GPU backplates: 2x EK Aluminum Red

http://s82.photobucket.com/user/skypine27/media/DSC_0045.jpg.html

http://s82.photobucket.com/user/skypine27/media/DSC_0038.jpg.html


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skypine27*
> 
> My first custom loop build so its not near as snazzy as some in this thread.
> 
> CPU: EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition CPU Waterblock - Intel 2011-3
> GPUs: 2 x EK-FC Titan X/GTX980 Ti Waterblock - Nickel
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s82.photobucket.com/user/skypine27/media/DSC_0045.jpg.html
> 
> http://s82.photobucket.com/user/skypine27/media/DSC_0038.jpg.html


Looks very nice, not hard tubing yet, but it looks very nice... but omg, the specs! Better get an insurance policy on that thing.


----------



## skypine27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Looks very nice, not hard tubing yet, but it looks very nice... but omg, the specs! Better get an insurance policy on that thing.


Yeah Im somewhat of a PC geek and don't mind blowing obscene (to non PC geeks anyway) amounts of money to maintain a high end gaming rig. But this was my first attempt into the world of custom loops (previously used various Corsair AIO closed loop models). I really had a good time building it (I enjoy building stuff more than actually using it).

All the videos I watched on bending hard tubing turned me off from using it, at least on my first build.

Heres a couple more pics.

The top rad to front rad required a couple of angled fittings and short (like 1") piece of tubing to get them to connect cleanly:
http://s82.photobucket.com/user/skypine27/media/DSC_0040.jpg.html

This is after first filling the loop, the bubbles went away after letting the system run with the res uncapped:

http://s82.photobucket.com/user/skypine27/media/DSC_0037.jpg.html

Had a great time building it!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Beauty!


Thank you


----------



## longroadtrip

Leak testing. Really liking the Revo pump/res!


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Leak testing. Really liking the Revo pump/res!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks nice!


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

EKWB X3 400 in my Enthoo Primo


----------



## muffins

got my ek-kit l120 r1 yesterday and spent the entire night putting it together. was sorta a challenge with my haf xb evo case. had to mount the res + pump combo outside of the case and used all the tubbing from all the cuts i did lol.

overall i think i did a great job with such limited space. it did lower my 980 ti temps down from hitting 78 - 80c with a boost of 1.2ghz during heaven and bf4 all the way down to 47 - 50c with a boost of 1.3ghz! temps are so low its able to boost an extra 100mhz without needing to overclock.

i do have a question though... i accidental poured all the extra coolant i had left down the drain when i was cleaning up.... i've noticed the water level in my res has gone down from the air bubbles popping. i did go ahead and order another bottle of ek-koolant concrete evo clear off of performance-pcs (i had ordered one along with my kit since i didn't want the blue dye), but since its the weekend and wont ship till monday and get here till wednesday, could i go ahead and refill it if it gets to low with just regular distilled water? or would that dilute the coolant to much?


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muffins*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got my ek-kit l120 r1 yesterday and spent the entire night putting it together. was sorta a challenge with my haf xb evo case. had to mount the res + pump combo outside of the case and used all the tubbing from all the cuts i did lol.
> 
> overall i think i did a great job with such limited space. it did lower my 980 ti temps down from hitting 78 - 80c with a boost of 1.2ghz during heaven and bf4 all the way down to 47 - 50c with a boost of 1.3ghz! temps are so low its able to boost an extra 100mhz without needing to overclock.
> 
> i do have a question though... i accidental poured all the extra coolant i had left down the drain when i was cleaning up.... i've noticed the water level in my res has gone down from the air bubbles popping. i did go ahead and order another bottle of ek-koolant concrete evo clear off of performance-pcs (i had ordered one along with my kit since i didn't want the blue dye), but since its the weekend and wont ship till monday and get here till wednesday, could i go ahead and refill it if it gets to low with just regular distilled water? or would that dilute the coolant to much?


Use the distilled, I use it + PT Nuke - I have a full custom loop, not a problem.

Don't worry about diluting the EK stuff, distilled is better anyway...

This is strictly my opinion, you can use anything you want...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Use the distilled, I use it + PT Nuke - I have a full custom loop, not a problem.
> 
> Don't worry about diluting the EK stuff, distilled is better anyway...
> 
> This is strictly my opinion, you can use anything you want...


EK says on their own blog not to use PT Nuke with nickel plating. Copper is fine.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muffins*
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/KUBS4nE.jpg
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got my ek-kit l120 r1 yesterday and spent the entire night putting it together. was sorta a challenge with my haf xb evo case. had to mount the res + pump combo outside of the case and used all the tubbing from all the cuts i did lol.
> 
> overall i think i did a great job with such limited space. it did lower my 980 ti temps down from hitting 78 - 80c with a boost of 1.2ghz during heaven and bf4 all the way down to 47 - 50c with a boost of 1.3ghz! temps are so low its able to boost an extra 100mhz without needing to overclock.
> 
> i do have a question though... i accidental poured all the extra coolant i had left down the drain when i was cleaning up.... i've noticed the water level in my res has gone down from the air bubbles popping. i did go ahead and order another bottle of ek-koolant concrete evo clear off of performance-pcs (i had ordered one along with my kit since i didn't want the blue dye), but since its the weekend and wont ship till monday and get here till wednesday, could i go ahead and refill it if it gets to low with just regular distilled water? or would that dilute the coolant to much?


I have the same res/pump in my sig rig. If you have colored coolant I would wait for the additional EK coolant, as along as the level isn't below the top of the res base you should be fine, adding distilled will dilute the color. If the coolant is clear then you should be okay to add distilled, it won't be enough to dilute the biocide to be non-productive.


----------



## fast_fate

Tick


----------



## muffins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I have the same res/pump in my sig rig. If you have colored coolant I would wait for the additional EK coolant, as along as the level isn't below the top of the res base you should be fine, adding distilled will dilute the color. If the coolant is clear then you should be okay to add distilled, it won't be enough to dilute the biocide to be non-productive.


yeah i originally used the evo clear. bought a bottle of it along with the kit cause i didn't want to use the blue dye one. blue dye coolant with pitch black tubes? why lol?

i figured it be fine to add a little more distilled if it got to low to where the pump wasn't flooded. so far it has stabilized at half the reservoir full. i'll keep an eye on it.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> EK says on their own blog not to use PT Nuke with nickel plating. Copper is fine.


It depends on the type of adatives you use. I ordered one from England simply beacue I didn't want the copper sulfate one. The chloride version should not affect nickel as far as I know.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Tick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm confused, the label says fragile, but the video says hammer...?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muffins*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got my ek-kit l120 r1 yesterday and spent the entire night putting it together. was sorta a challenge with my haf xb evo case. had to mount the res + pump combo outside of the case and used all the tubbing from all the cuts i did lol.
> 
> overall i think i did a great job with such limited space. it did lower my 980 ti temps down from hitting 78 - 80c with a boost of 1.2ghz during heaven and bf4 all the way down to 47 - 50c with a boost of 1.3ghz! temps are so low its able to boost an extra 100mhz without needing to overclock.
> 
> i do have a question though... i accidental poured all the extra coolant i had left down the drain when i was cleaning up.... i've noticed the water level in my res has gone down from the air bubbles popping. i did go ahead and order another bottle of ek-koolant concrete evo clear off of performance-pcs (i had ordered one along with my kit since i didn't want the blue dye), but since its the weekend and wont ship till monday and get here till wednesday, could i go ahead and refill it if it gets to low with just regular distilled water? or would that dilute the coolant to much?


How did you accidentally poured the extra coolant?







It's good idea to wait another bottle. Otherwise told differently by EK, I make sure the mixing ratio between concentrate & distilled is according to the instruction. Adding more distilled may diluted the additives in the coolant too much that may render them ineffective.

This time keep the left over coolant.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> EK says on their own blog not to use PT Nuke with nickel plating. Copper is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> It depends on the type of adatives you use. I ordered one from England simply beacue I didn't want the copper sulfate one. The chloride version should not affect nickel as far as I know.
Click to expand...

I don't know PT Nuke have two version. All I know PT Nuke does contain copper sulfate. I personally prefer non-toxic additives too.


----------



## corysti

Any word on if the z170 rog impact going to have a full block made for it?


----------



## iBruce

They have arrived!
































Just ordered mine, there are three left in stock.























http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/X4_zpsxg6vrkfa.png.html


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Any word on if the z170 rog impact going to have a full block made for it?


Too soon to know


----------



## funfordcobra

Can we use the x250 res on your pump res combo? I want to unscrew the 150 and use the x250 if the diameter and threads are the same.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Can we use the x250 res on your pump res combo? I want to unscrew the 150 and use the x250 if the diameter and threads are the same.


Yes, you can switch the tube reservoir on it.


----------



## akira749

New EK product!









EK is releasing Intel SSD 750 Series water block


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Tick


Well, there goes any resistance I had to the Mayhems tubing..


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> How did you accidentally poured the extra coolant?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's good idea to wait another bottle. Otherwise told differently by EK, I make sure the mixing ratio between concentrate & distilled is according to the instruction. Adding more distilled may diluted the additives in the coolant too much that may render them ineffective.
> 
> This time keep the left over coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know PT Nuke have two version. All I know PT Nuke does contain copper sulfate. I personally prefer non-toxic additives too.


I don't think it's technically PT nuke, but it's the option I had. At any rate most biocide for WC loops contains copper sulphate including PT Nuke, Mayhems biocide and PM Nuke (Pulse moding nuke, and the one I have the option of getting). While I have no idea of the effect of copper sulphate in a loop myself I want to listen to the manufacturers and thus looked for alternatives without copper sulphate. The one I got contains Benzalkonium chloride, which I have not seen any warnings about yet. So hopefully I'm safe with that.

There is a version with Benzalkonium chloride that seems to be identical, named PT Nuke instead of PM Nuke as well: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/peptpcobi1.html

Edit: Also benzalkonium chloride is somewhat poisonus as well but I think the effect on nickel is less disasterous then what copper sulphate is.


----------



## DanWoodsPcMods

Hey guys, I am wondering if there is any news on the MSI M7 Gaming mono-block, is there anywhere I can buy it yet


----------



## jlakai




----------



## EthanKing

Love the basement side panel. Is it 3d printed??

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> Love the basement side panel. Is it 3d printed??
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


No, its waterjetted using the same thickness aluminum then powdercoated to match.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanWoodsPcMods*
> 
> Hey guys, I am wondering if there is any news on the MSI M7 Gaming mono-block, is there anywhere I can buy it yet


I don't know if the Australians resellers already have them but I know that PerformancePCS in the US already have them.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*


That side panel is awesome!


----------



## NvNw

@akira749 Have EK checked the new ASUS VIII Impact? It's still compatible with the EK-M6I?

Thanks.


----------



## Rahldrac

Does OCN have any kind of coupon code for EK Webshop? Planing on placing an order on 500 Euro, so 5% would actually be a bit


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> @akira749 Have EK checked the new ASUS VIII Impact? It's still compatible with the EK-M6I?
> 
> Thanks.


Not yet. The board is very new. We should have more infos soon.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Does OCN have any kind of coupon code for EK Webshop? Planing on placing an order on 500 Euro, so 5% would actually be a bit


No sorry


----------



## akira749

Something new is coming.....

New build is collaboration with Gigabyte!









Log : Eclipse


----------



## andrej124

Hi guys!

Monoblock for the MSI Z170A XPOWER TITANIUM EDITION is out!









http://www.ekwb.com/news/639/19/EK-...A-XPOWER-GAMING-TITANIUM-EDITION-motherboard/


----------



## akira749

EK releases monoblock for MSI Z170A XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM EDITION motherboard


----------



## funfordcobra

How do you guys pick what boards you make monoblocks for? I wanted one for my Asus x99 deluxe but I saw on other forums you guys don't plan on releasing one.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> How do you guys pick what boards you make monoblocks for? I wanted one for my Asus x99 deluxe but I saw on other forums you guys don't plan on releasing one.


Is it an ASUS RAMPAGE EXTREME for 2011? Yes. Is it a high end MSI XPOWER? Yes. Is it a popular MSI mid-range board? Most likely. Mini-ITX board? Maybe. I think if it's Gigabyte or ASRock, they won't do it.


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Is it an ASUS RAMPAGE EXTREME for 2011? Yes. Is it a high end MSI XPOWER? Yes. Is it a popular MSI mid-range board? Most likely. Mini-ITX board? Maybe. I think if it's Gigabyte or ASRock, they won't do it.


I kinda wish EK made a VRM + PCH block for the Z77X-UP7. Not liking the XSPC block that much.


----------



## fisher6

I have a question regarding the EK UV Blue Premixed coolant. I'm currently using EK Clear coolant in my loop with Primochill Advanced LRT UV blue tubing along with Darkside UV led strips. I'm quite happy with the UV effects, the only problem is that my 250 EK res looks kinda dull with clear water so I was thinking of switching to the EK Premixed UV Blue coolant in order to give my res a better look with the UV effect. Do you guys recommend the UV Blue from EK? Also, I have a bitspower drain valve in my loop so draining won't be hard but there probably will be some EK clear coolant left in the blocks/rads, would this be an issue if I use the EK UV Blue and they get mixed a little bit? I really don't have time to tear down everything just to get the water out. Thanks.


----------



## funfordcobra

It's an asus x99 deluxe. Pretty high end I'd say. It was 399 new.


----------



## tistou77

Hello

I bought Ek Waterblock fittings HDC 12/16 and Ek Waterblock acrylic tubes 12/16
The problem is that the tube does not fit in the fittings (even forcing very strong), the tube "blocks" on the inner joint, you have a "solution"?

And also, once the Ek waterblock tube is "bent" I have a sort of line with small "peaks" (. . . . . . .), just one place and I have the same thing after 2 tests (no mark with Monsoon tube)
this may be due to what?

For info, when I heats the tube (heat gun ~ 320 °C) I have the impression that it"crystalized" (slightly white) that disappears once I've finished heating the tube

Thanks for your help


----------



## Georgey123

+1 on the x99 deluxe monoblock, most likley won't happen but i will still have hope


----------



## TTheuns

I was wondering if anyone has any numbers on how much Watts a CoolStream SE 240mm radiator can dissipate when used with EK Vardar ER fans? Would like to see wether a 980Ti and i5 6600K would be able to run on a single 240 without overclock. Only for when in mobile use, as soon as it gets home it will be connected to a bigger wallmounted radiator. If anyone responds to this, please be sure to tag my username, that way it is easier to find in this busy thread that is always moving.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> How do you guys pick what boards you make monoblocks for? I wanted one for my Asus x99 deluxe but I saw on other forums you guys don't plan on releasing one.


Itvs usually only the popular boards. Aka the ones that sell alot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> I kinda wish EK made a VRM + PCH block for the Z77X-UP7. Not liking the XSPC block that much.


Modify it to make it how you want.


----------



## NvNw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has any numbers on how much Watts a CoolStream SE 240mm radiator can dissipate when used with EK Vardar ER fans? Would like to see wether a 980Ti and i5 6600K would be able to run on a single 240 without overclock. Only for when in mobile use, as soon as it gets home it will be connected to a bigger wallmounted radiator. If anyone responds to this, please be sure to tag my username, that way it is easier to find in this busy thread that is always moving.


I have a I7 4790k @4.5 and 980TI with the TDP limit to 121% running around 1450mhz. This is cooled with CoolStream SE 240mm with two EK Vardar ER and a CoolStream SE 120mm with a 120mm 15mm Silverstone fan. And it barely kinda keep up with the temps, on idle the GPU is around 35 and the cpu is on the 40s. And on load the gpu goes to around 65 and the the cpu to something like 75. Thats with the rpm of the fans between 40 and 60%.

It think if you won't OC a single SE 240 might be enought.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I bought Ek Waterblock fittings HDC 12/16 and Ek Waterblock acrylic tubes 12/16
> The problem is that the tube does not fit in the fittings (even forcing very strong), the tube "blocks" on the inner joint, you have a "solution"?


It seems that this is a known "problem" for fittings

http://www.overclock.net/t/1528946/ek-hd-tubing-and-hd-adapters-installation

Is water with a little soap is safe?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I have a question regarding the EK UV Blue Premixed coolant. I'm currently using EK Clear coolant in my loop with Primochill Advanced LRT UV blue tubing along with Darkside UV led strips. I'm quite happy with the UV effects, the only problem is that my 250 EK res looks kinda dull with clear water so I was thinking of switching to the EK Premixed UV Blue coolant in order to give my res a better look with the UV effect. Do you guys recommend the UV Blue from EK? Also, I have a bitspower drain valve in my loop so draining won't be hard but there probably will be some EK clear coolant left in the blocks/rads, would this be an issue if I use the EK UV Blue and they get mixed a little bit? I really don't have time to tear down everything just to get the water out. Thanks.


Even if there's still a little bit of clear coolant it's fine to refill your loop with the UV Blue. They will mix together.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I bought Ek Waterblock fittings HDC 12/16 and Ek Waterblock acrylic tubes 12/16
> The problem is that the tube does not fit in the fittings (even forcing very strong), the tube "blocks" on the inner joint, you have a "solution"?
> 
> And also, once the Ek waterblock tube is "bent" I have a sort of line with small "peaks" (. . . . . . .), just one place and I have the same thing after 2 tests (no mark with Monsoon tube)
> this may be due to what?
> 
> For info, when I heats the tube (heat gun ~ 320 °C) I have the impression that it"crystalized" (slightly white) that disappears once I've finished heating the tube
> 
> Thanks for your help


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> It seems that this is a known "problem" for fittings
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1528946/ek-hd-tubing-and-hd-adapters-installation
> 
> Is water with a little soap is safe?


I would not use soap there. Only water

You must chamfer the end of the tube to ease the insertion and protect the inside o-ring from being damaged.

The user in the link you posted uses the EK-HD Adapter. These ones have 2 inner o-rings instead of one in your EK-HDC and it's true that it's a pain to insert the tube in the EK-HD Adapter.

I never used 12/16 tube so I haven't experienced what you had (the crystalized effect). Maybe others here will have the same experience as you encountered.


----------



## funfordcobra

Dip the ends of your tube in boiling water so they are pliable. They will pop on after that.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I would not use soap there. Only water
> 
> You must chamfer the end of the tube to ease the insertion and protect the inside o-ring from being damaged.
> 
> The user in the link you posted uses the EK-HD Adapter. These ones have 2 inner o-rings instead of one in your EK-HDC and it's true that it's a pain to insert the tube in the EK-HD Adapter.
> 
> I never used 12/16 tube so I haven't experienced what you had (the crystalized effect). Maybe others here will have the same experience as you encountered.


Thank you for your answer

I used water (on the o-ring) and chamfer on the end of the tube, but it does not work, the tube "abuts" on the o-ring, impossible to enter tube into the fitting
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Dip the ends of your tube in boiling water so they are pliable. They will pop on after that.


I can do this safely (no leaks or other) ?

Thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Thank you for your answer
> 
> I used water (on the o-ring) and chamfer on the end of the tube, but it does not work, the tube "abuts" on the o-ring, impossible to enter tube into the fitting


Do you have another 12/16 tube? Just to check if the issue is with the tube. Also, have you tried to check with the other fittings just to be sure that you don't have 1 faulty fitting?


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Do you have another 12/16 tube? Just to check if the issue is with the tube. Also, have you tried to check with the other fittings just to be sure that you don't have 1 faulty fitting?


I tried with Monsoon tubes 13/16 and no problems
I also tried with several fittings and tubes Ek and same problem
The inside diameter of the fitting is "exactly" the same as the outside diameter of the tube (also in the link, some also used silicone grease for fittings HDC, I believe)


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> I tried with Monsoon tubes 13/16 and no problems
> I also tried with several fittings and tubes Ek and same problem
> The inside diameter of the fitting is "exactly" the same as the outside diameter of the tube (also in the link, some also used silicone grease for fittings HDC, I believe)


I meant another EK 12/16 tube to check if there would be an issue with the tube.

Silicone grease could be something to try.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I meant another EK 12/16 tube to check if there would be an issue with the tube.
> 
> Silicone grease could be something to try.


I tried with 3 tubes and the same problem.
I will try with silicone grease to see


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I meant another EK 12/16 tube to check if there would be an issue with the tube.
> 
> Silicone grease could be something to try.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> I tried with 3 tubes and the same problem.
> I will try with silicone grease to see


I used Silicone grease when I did the review for Acrylic tube bending kits & the Silicon Grease was the way to go, Just rub a little grease around the inside of the O-Rings in fittings. I used an ordinary Q-Tip or cotton bud depending what part of the world your from like to reach inside fitting & spread Dat Grease







....... Just a little smearing of grease around the O-Rings that's all that's needed along with the chamfering of the ends of the tube as mentioned already......









Nam......


----------



## tiborrr12

Some 12/16 acrylic tubes are too big, shoot us a ticket and we will replace your tubing immediatelly.








10/12 is not affected.


----------



## Malik




----------



## tistou77

So I check, some tubes are bigger than the fittings.
Some fittings (EK-HDC 16mm) have an inner diameter (with o-ring) of ~ 15.94mm (and the tubes are more than 16.15mm)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Some 12/16 acrylic tubes are too big, shoot us a ticket and we will replace your tubing immediatelly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10/12 is not affected.


Thank you for your answer

I thought it was the fittings that were too small

I must to open a "ticket" for 12/16 tubes?


----------



## tistou77

After testing several hours with 6, 7 tubes 12/16.
I come with a lot of force to get the tube into the fitting, but the fitting is in my hand (and I have to pull hard to pull out the tube)
With the fitting on a water block, it may "break" something I think

Should tubes with a diameter of 16mm maximum (less than 16 will be better)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> And also, once the Ek waterblock tube is "bent" I have a sort of line with small "peaks" (. . . . . . .), just one place and I have the same thing after 2 tests (no mark with Monsoon tube)
> this may be due to what?


I know why I have marks on the tubes after the bent tube
the silicone cord (EK-HD Tube D.I.Y. Kit) is marked along the entire length
Manufacturing defect?

A little disappointed with this first experience with fittings and tubes Ek
3 days of testing and wasted tubes for nothing

I'm waiting to see what will answer me Ek Waterblock

PS: I opened a ticket to the tubes and the silicone cord


----------



## Anateus

Thats why we have PETG now.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

@Malik oh my, that's a beautifully done Predator. Guessing since you changed the tubing there will be coloured coolant?


----------



## King4x4

The New predator is gonna be a jiffy.


----------



## KickAssCop

I think I can join this club now. Have a predator 360 installed now.


----------



## Ceadderman

Pics, or didnae happen.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pics, or didnae happen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Lol, I was gonna say that but decided not to. Still counts as a ninja!


----------



## KickAssCop

Tough crowd. Just waiting on pre filled QDC enabled 980 ti classified block for my second card to complete this build.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> I have a I7 4790k @4.5 and 980TI with the TDP limit to 121% running around 1450mhz. This is cooled with CoolStream SE 240mm with two EK Vardar ER and a CoolStream SE 120mm with a 120mm 15mm Silverstone fan. And it barely kinda keep up with the temps, on idle the GPU is around 35 and the cpu is on the 40s. And on load the gpu goes to around 65 and the the cpu to something like 75. Thats with the rpm of the fans between 40 and 60%.
> 
> It think if you won't OC a single SE 240 might be enought.


All right, thank you!

Sorry to bother everyone again with a question:
Will an EK DDC with XTop and Cover kit be able to push water through two 240s, a 120, a 980 Ti block and a Supremacy EVO?


----------



## Anateus

I have some weird noise coming from my 120ER Vardars.

I have 5 of them hooked to my aquaero throughout 3 fan channels.
When they are set to be voltage controlled, its ok (except that I cant control them as much as with RPM).
When I set them to be controlled via RPM, I get VERY annoying creaking/coil whine coming from them.

Is it normal? Im 100% sure its coming from the fans. I will connect them to mobo headers and check if it happens there too.


----------



## NvNw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> All right, thank you!
> 
> Sorry to bother everyone again with a question:
> Will an EK DDC with XTop and Cover kit be able to push water through two 240s, a 120, a 980 Ti block and a Supremacy EVO?


Yup, the DDC 18w is one of the most powerful pumps with a lot of head pressure, you won't have any problem with all those blocks and rads.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> All right, thank you!
> 
> Sorry to bother everyone again with a question:
> Will an EK DDC with XTop and Cover kit be able to push water through two 240s, a 120, a 980 Ti block and a Supremacy EVO?


Without breaking a sweat.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I will connect them to mobo headers and check if it happens there too.


You should do that first, PWM fans can act up when voltage controlled.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I have some weird noise coming from my 120ER Vardars.
> 
> I have 5 of them hooked to my aquaero throughout 3 fan channels.
> When they are set to be voltage controlled, its ok (except that I cant control them as much as with RPM).
> When I set them to be controlled via RPM, I get VERY annoying creaking/coil whine coming from them.
> 
> Is it normal? Im 100% sure its coming from the fans. I will connect them to mobo headers and check if it happens there too.


I had the same problem with my vardar f2-140s, but one of them was just unbearably loud. I returned them and am just using voltage controlled fans now. Here's a video, the 4th fan is the worst (sorry about the bad iphone recording).


----------



## tiborrr12

RMA time, no questions asked!


----------



## Anateus

I'll open a ticket on your website if I wont find any solution to this. Shame, loved them vardars the moment they created hurricane in my room


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I have some weird noise coming from my 120ER Vardars.
> 
> I have 5 of them hooked to my aquaero throughout 3 fan channels.
> When they are set to be voltage controlled, its ok (except that I cant control them as much as with RPM).
> When I set them to be controlled via RPM, I get VERY annoying creaking/coil whine coming from them.
> 
> Is it normal? Im 100% sure its coming from the fans. I will connect them to mobo headers and check if it happens there too.


Why are you not controlling them via PWM (do you have non-PWM Varders or something strange like that?) . . . wouldn't that be the place to start troubleshooting?

D.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Why are you not controlling them via PWM (do you have non-PWM Varders or something strange like that?) . . . wouldn't that be the place to start troubleshooting?
> 
> D.


I might not have been clear. I was and am controlling them with PWM option in Aquaero. I even set that up before connecting fans. But when I first booted the PC and lowered their RPM, I heard that creak/coil whine, and it doesnt go away.
Now they are at 500RPM and its quite loud.

I switched to voltage control to see whether it would fix this or not.. and the noise was gone. Right now Im sitting with PWM mode and the coil whine is driving me nuts.
Whats weird - it happens on all 5 fans. There are two pairs hooked with Y splitter and one single, total of 3 fan channels.


----------



## Georgey123

Thanks EK for the x99 Deluxe Monoblock, patiently waiting for the release.


----------



## funfordcobra

I've got to say I love these Vardar fans. I've been going through so many fans over the years with constant problems. Clicking, grinding, pwm problems, and even blades flying off.. I get none of that with the Vardar. They are very quality no matter how you position them.









I even run them below their cyclic rate and no problems.


----------



## funfordcobra

Wait what? x99 deluxe monoblock where? huh? I want 2.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Wait what? x99 deluxe monoblock where? huh? I want 2.


https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks/photos/a.204208322966540.61821.182927101761329/918546648199367/?type=3&theater

On their Facebook page


----------



## funfordcobra

Wow I love ek. I asked them to make 2 things this week and they did!!!!!!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Wow I love ek. I asked them to make 2 things this week and they did!!!!!!


Woo hoooo, yea hah! You're on a roll, so now push it and see how far you can go. Aquaero beating fan/pump controller? ... No problems!


----------



## andrej124

EK-AF Ball Valves are here!







Nickel, Black Nickel and Black!











https://shop.ekwb.com/fittings/extra/ball-valves


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> EK-AF Ball Valves are here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nickel, Black Nickel and Black!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/fittings/extra/ball-valves


And they are actually somewhat affordable...win!

Is ek not making regular 90s in black anymore? I noticed that ek site doesnt have them and ppcs only has silver.


----------



## fisher6

Anybody here using the EK Blue UV premixed coolant. Is it made by Mayhems? Anyone knows if there have been reports of it clogging or disintegrating inside the loop? Thanks.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Anybody here using the EK Blue UV premixed coolant. Is it made by Mayhems? Anyone knows if there have been reports of it clogging or disintegrating inside the loop? Thanks.


I don't think the UV coolants from EK are mayhems, but I've been using the UV blue and have had no problems with it at all.


----------



## superstition222

I'm going to move this long post to a new topic...


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> Yup, the DDC 18w is one of the most powerful pumps with a lot of head pressure, you won't have any problem with all those blocks and rads.


Thanks again!
For some reason my mind always puts the DDC into a dark corner as a very weak pump and shoving the D5 into a spotlight... But overall they seem to have the same amount of supporters.


----------



## NvNw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Thanks again!
> For some reason my mind always puts the DDC into a dark corner as a very weak pump and shoving the D5 into a spotlight... But overall they seem to have the same amount of supporters.


D5 pump are also good but the design is focus on having a high water flow more than the head pressure of the water. It will depend how many block, radiators and where the pump is placed if you can get away with a D5 or of you need the head pressure of a DDC. I recommend you to watch a video of Jay2cents on YouTube where he explains the difference between both options. Is a recent video.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Anybody here using the EK Blue UV premixed coolant. Is it made by Mayhems? Anyone knows if there have been reports of it clogging or disintegrating inside the loop? Thanks.


I switched over to EK UV Blue premix over a year ago, very pleased with it, no issues whatsoever.


----------



## derickwm

Do you even SSD?


----------



## Georgey123

I have a smile from ear to ear after that photo derick. Odd seeing a bridge being used for ssd's.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you even SSD?


Hey, nice triple SLI setu.. Oh wait.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you even SSD?


That's one way to make use of an x99 setup! Probably rather expensive though, but man the speeds. Wonder what it could do to bench scores ^_^


----------



## corysti

Does those ssds ever get hot enough to really benefit from a waterblock? Looks baddass though!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Does those ssds ever get hot enough to really benefit from a waterblock? Looks baddass though!


According to a number of reports, they do get fairly warm.... I think the kicker for me is that Intel themselves came to EK to have a block developped, and if the manufacturer does such odds are they're worried about it getting a tad toasty in low airflow environments.

Wonder if there are any motherboards that let you run SLI on the first two PCIe slots, and then two of these drives on the lower two... Would make for a rather nice looking build, not to mention a speedy response to benches....


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Do you even SSD?


Is that your own setup? Are you RAIDing them at all? I'm curious what kind of throughput you get with a software RAID implementation. I know my FusionIO drive is physically split into two ~600 GB areas and their documentation specifies using mdadm to stripe/mirror them. Was kind of half assed when I got the drive and found that out.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Some 12/16 acrylic tubes are too big, shoot us a ticket and we will replace your tubing immediatelly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10/12 is not affected.


Further to my problem too big acrylic tubes.
It seems that I have to take the PETG tubes for have no problem, those at acrylic are too big
I have to ask an exchange from the seller
But I prefer acrylic tubes, I'll try with another tube brand


----------



## akira749

Some Asus Z170 Monoblocks are out!









EK releases monoblock for ASUS MAXIMUS VIII motherboards


----------



## Howdy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you even SSD?


Its a beautiful raid system









One block for my ssd I ordered, it will arrive tomorrow or today.

It is good if there is something for connecting the VGA and SSD in one FC terminal.
If there is it, it becomes more orderly loop.


----------



## zerone

So, I bought some F4-120ER fans PPCs about a month ago and just got around to putting them my build.

Is normal for the hub to generate a whining noise at mid-range RPMs?

At high RPMs I cannot hear them since it gets drowns out by fan noise.

The fans are installed on the top rad of my Caselabs SMA8 and I can still hear noise over the bottom rad when I am sitting next to my desk.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerone*
> 
> So, I bought some F4-120ER fans PPCs about a month ago and just got around to putting them my build.
> 
> Is normal for the hub to generate a whining noise at mid-range RPMs?
> 
> At high RPMs I cannot hear them since it gets drowns out by fan noise.
> 
> The fans are installed on the top rad of my Caselabs SMA8 and I can still hear noise over the bottom rad when I am sitting next to my desk.


@Anateus and I had the same problem. At 50% pwm signal, the speed control circuitry made a terrible "coil whine" noise. If that's what you are getting too, @EK_tiborrr said we could RMA them.


----------



## tiborrr12

Yes, this is correct. Sorry for the hiccup guys, some things are just out of control sometimes


----------



## zerone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> @Anateus and I had the same problem. At 50% pwm signal, the speed control circuitry made a terrible "coil whine" noise. If that's what you are getting too, @EK_tiborrr said we could RMA them.


Yea, it does sounds like coil whine. Kinda hard to explain, but sounds like somewhat like what crickets make at night









I guess I will have to RMA it with EK directly since I bought them about a month ago.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Yes, this is correct. Sorry for the hiccup guys, some things are just out of control sometimes


No worries here. I'm still overly impressed with your presence here on OCN and with your willingness to listen and help. Thanks for that!


----------



## zerone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Yes, this is correct. Sorry for the hiccup guys, some things are just out of control sometimes


Ok, thanks. Just submitted a support ticket on EKWB.com


----------



## Kimir

Ah so this is what I have too, I thought there was only an issue with the 140mm one.
Now I'll have to figure if all of them do it, huh.


----------



## BiGlikeAb0SS

can I mount a predator 240 in the bottom of the case pulling cold air into the case? does the pump get starved when inverted? if there is no air in it then it should not matter right?


----------



## Anateus

Opened RMA ticket for my 5 Vardars. I am unsure now whether to get a refund or replacements... Will see.


----------



## KarlInChicago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiGlikeAb0SS*
> 
> can I mount a predator 240 in the bottom of the case pulling cold air into the case? does the pump get starved when inverted? if there is no air in it then it should not matter right?


On page 7 of the User Guide titled "Unit Orientation Limitations" that specific orientation is shown as being "wrong", with the caution "The orientation of the unit is very important as wrong installation may lead to insufficient cooling performance and premature failure of the unit".


----------



## JCArch

So, I'm looking on putting together a custom loop around Christmas and will be using a 780ti. I found an auction on eBay for the nickel/acetal block and backplate for $80. Is that a good enough deal that I should snap it up now, or are there better deals to be had?


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> So, I'm looking on putting together a custom loop around Christmas and will be using a 780ti. I found an auction on eBay for the nickel/acetal block and backplate for $80. Is that a good enough deal that I should snap it up now, or are there better deals to be had?


well a new block is around $105 and a backplate costs $25. So $130 for brand new + warranty or $80 on a used one with (I assume) no warranty.


----------



## Roxycon

When will the predator rad/pump/res combo be available as a stand-alone product? Im pretty sure the reps said it will come soon™ish after the predator release when theyd teased it in this thread


----------



## Vlada011

This new EKWB X4 reservoir is best reservoir at the moment on market.
But price is crazy and only one option is bad. They should offer and 125/150 version for half price.
People like glass reservoir.

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-res-x4-250


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> When will the predator rad/pump/res combo be available as a stand-alone product? Im pretty sure the reps said it will come soon™ish after the predator release when theyd teased it in this thread


I could have sworn tiborr or ek_ceo said it wouldn't happen, or wasn't in the plans.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I could have sworn tiborr or ek_ceo said it wouldn't happen, or wasn't in the plans.


so buying the predator and disassembling it is the only way to acquire it


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

EK block installed on my Intel 750:







There was a small issue with the install.

The one 5x4 screw that needs a plastic washer when screwing down the pcb to the block, the other side of the pcb also needs a washer too. My 750 wasn't lighting up, thought it was a broken pci-E slot all of sudden, but noticed the stand off of the block was shorting out the 750.

Just an FYI.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> so buying the predator and disassembling it is the only way to acquire it


Tbh the only thing you need to remove is the CPU block, and its a pretty good one so its not like you're wasting money on it. Probably doesn't make much sense for them to sell the rad/pump/res combo as a separate unit.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Tbh the only thing you need to remove is the CPU block, and its a pretty good one so its not like you're wasting money on it. Probably doesn't make much sense for them to sell the rad/pump/res combo as a separate unit.


Won't need the MX as i have the Evo. If i were to redo the loop, which i have to in about 3 months, i'd use rigid tubing, thous fittings is not needed and the coolant wont be changed from what i have (gray pastel). this ads up to roughly 55 EUR, even if the radiator unit is more than 150 eur it would be more feasible for me at least; no need to disassemble, less environmental waste and no need to stash away even more WC gear


----------



## ali13245

Hey guys I recently installed my waterblocks on my graphics cards, however I am quite worried about this:



As you can see, the backplate has a slight curve to it which I'm pretty sure is not normal. This is happening on both of my cards. I have already taken off the backplate and re positioned it several times. Does anyone know what the cause of this can be?

Edit: the actual pcb is not bending, and is actually straight. Only the backplate is doing this.


----------



## fisher6

Any idea why this would happen after 24 hours of use? Using EK UV Blue prefilled. The coolant has lost all its glow almost. Not deal breaking but still the difference in the reservoir is quite significant.

Just after filling:









After 24 hours:


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

So I had to change my plumbing so I can satisfy my OCD a bit:



I think it looks better this way.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Any idea why this would happen after 24 hours of use? Using EK UV Blue prefilled. The coolant has lost all its glow almost. Not deal breaking but still the difference in the reservoir is quite significant.
> 
> Just after filling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 24 hours:


I noticed the same, I thought it was my coldcathodes getting dim but even after changing to darksides LEDs the glow is completely gone. I had to use actual UV tubing to get the effect back.

I'm using a silver kill coil in my loop with no other additives.

2 coldcathodes, new coolant. Clear tubing.



Then after I started to notice the UV effect was fading I turned to darksides LEDs.
Here you can see that the glow is gone after about 1 month of use. Even with the darksides LEDs.


To get the same effect as I did when the coolant was new, I had to go with UV tubing. Notice how the resivior is clear containing the UV blue coolant but does not glow at all.


----------



## funfordcobra

Notice again how there are leds next to my resivoir but no illumination like the bottle I have that has not been unsealed.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Notice again how there are leds next to my resivoir but no illumination like the bottle I have that has not been unsealed.


We have the exact same problem (although my pictures are bad quality). My Primochill Advanced LRT tubing still glows like the first day I got it. Always been using Darkside's LEDs. I also have a sealed bottle of EK UV Blue and it glows just fine just like your pic:



The liquid that is glowing in the bottle is the exact same one as the one in the reservoir inside the case but it is barely visible. There must be a reason this is happening.


----------



## obotNapalm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> And they are actually somewhat affordable...win!
> 
> Is ek not making regular 90s in black anymore? I noticed that ek site doesnt have them and ppcs only has silver.


Seen the same, there are no 90's listed on the EK store page anymore. Are they planning to replace them with a new design or anything?
https://shop.ekwb.com/fittings/adapter-fittings/90


----------



## derickwm

http://www.overclock.net/t/1576139/sponsored-lian-li-pc-o8-xpower-gaming-titanium-skylake-liquid-cooling


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obotNapalm*
> 
> Seen the same, there are no 90's listed on the EK store page anymore. Are they planning to replace them with a new design or anything?
> https://shop.ekwb.com/fittings/adapter-fittings/90


We hope to have the black 90's back in stock soon. Sorry about that guys.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576139/sponsored-lian-li-pc-o8-xpower-gaming-titanium-skylake-liquid-cooling


.....Aaaaaaaand you just helped me justify SLI video cards and dual PCI Express solid state drives to my husband. His reply (as well as mine) can be summarized as "gorgeous", and I say summarized because half of what was said in a complimentary manner can't be said here due to TOS


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576139/sponsored-lian-li-pc-o8-xpower-gaming-titanium-skylake-liquid-cooling
> 
> 
> 
> .....Aaaaaaaand you just helped me justify SLI video cards and dual PCI Express solid state drives to my husband. His reply (as well as mine) can be summarized as "gorgeous", and I say summarized because half of what was said in a complimentary manner can't be said here due to TOS
Click to expand...

Just wait till the tubing is done and all filled up!


----------



## VSG

Ok

Edit: Leaving this context free because it is funnier.


----------



## Costas

Hi all,

Any word on when the full range of EK Varder 140 sized fans will be made available?

It looks like only the F1-140 is currently listed in the EK online webstore.


----------



## andrej124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Any word on when the full range of EK Varder 140 sized fans will be made available?
> 
> It looks like only the F1-140 is currently listed in the EK online webstore.


Hi! We are aiming for the second half of November. Stay tuned!


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerone*
> 
> Yea, it does sounds like coil whine. Kinda hard to explain, but sounds like somewhat like what crickets make at night
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I will have to RMA it with EK directly since I bought them about a month ago.


Mine growl.

I got three 120mm Vardars in the L360 2.0 kit and one of them in particular is very growly. I moved it to push configuration which helped some. The other fans also make the sound, although not as loudly.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> Hi! We are aiming for the second half of November. Stay tuned!


OK - Thanks.


----------



## axipher

Quote:
Originally Posted by *derickwm* 

Quote:

Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe* 

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576139/sponsored-lian-li-pc-o8-xpower-gaming-titanium-skylake-liquid-cooling
> 
> .....Aaaaaaaand you just helped me justify SLI video cards and dual PCI Express solid state drives to my husband. His reply (as well as mine) can be summarized as "gorgeous", and I say summarized because half of what was said in a complimentary manner can't be said here due to TOS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wait till the tubing is done and all filled up!


Then get to work and stop being just a pretty face in a magazine article and dirtying up my Facebook feed...


----------



## TTheuns

This might have been asked several times, but are there going to be 980 Ti HOF blocks in white? I love the white blocks, willing to go over budget just to get the HOF card for the white block


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> This might have been asked several times, but are there going to be 980 Ti HOF blocks in white? I love the white blocks, willing to go over budget just to get the HOF card for the white block


I don't think EK makes white blocks. Might be thinking of Bitspower or that UK company (Diamond Cooling, I think?).


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> This might have been asked several times, but are there going to be 980 Ti HOF blocks in white? I love the white blocks, willing to go over budget just to get the HOF card for the white block


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> This might have been asked several times, but are there going to be 980 Ti HOF blocks in white? I love the white blocks, willing to go over budget just to get the HOF card for the white block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think EK makes white blocks. Might be thinking of Bitspower or that UK company (Diamond Cooling, I think?).
Click to expand...

We made white for the 780 HOF. However, we don't plan on making any blocks for the 980 Ti HOF or future HOF cards in general, sorry.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> This might have been asked several times, but are there going to be 980 Ti HOF blocks in white? I love the white blocks, willing to go over budget just to get the HOF card for the white block


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I don't think EK makes white blocks. Might be thinking of Bitspower or that UK company (Diamond Cooling, I think?).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We made white for the 780 HOF. However, we don't plan on making any blocks for the 980 Ti HOF or future HOF cards in general, sorry.


EDIT: NVM, Ninjad

TCO


----------



## ratzofftoya

Just EK'd up my main components...



http://imgur.com/zSeXBrM





http://imgur.com/k8MfJTU





http://imgur.com/Y4qezHv





http://imgur.com/wYOD2V3





http://imgur.com/D1o3lqj





http://imgur.com/2kOgr4n





http://imgur.com/YE9U69W





http://imgur.com/XEUePl7





http://imgur.com/3sP1oWR





http://imgur.com/EE8oa8J



If you're interested, feel free to follow along my build here or on youtube!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1575908/build-log-nostromo-x99-rve-5960x-980ti-3-way-sli-caselabs-sth10-petg-aquacomputer-update-motherboard-painted/

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8SlxwK1Ky7NY4uD7OogblQ


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Just EK'd up my main components...
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/zSeXBrM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/k8MfJTU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Y4qezHv
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/wYOD2V3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/D1o3lqj
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/2kOgr4n
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/YE9U69W
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/XEUePl7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/3sP1oWR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/EE8oa8J
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're interested, feel free to follow along my build here or on youtube!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1575908/build-log-nostromo-x99-rve-5960x-980ti-3-way-sli-caselabs-sth10-petg-aquacomputer-update-motherboard-painted/
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8SlxwK1Ky7NY4uD7OogblQ


Nice build video.







The music at times is a little loud, but other than that, good comments and naration. Whats with the picture in the background of cloud Bruce Lee punching a naked kid? LOLs


----------



## andrej124

Wow that is nice!!







Can't wait to see 2nd part of the video! Be sure to post it here!!


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> This might have been asked several times, but are there going to be 980 Ti HOF blocks in white? I love the white blocks, willing to go over budget just to get the HOF card for the white block


The 980 Ti HOF waterblock is made by Bitspower and comes only in white (it's awesome btw). Diamond cooling also has one in the works but so far I haven't seen anything concrete yet.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We made white for the 780 HOF. However, we don't plan on making any blocks for the 980 Ti HOF or future HOF cards in general, sorry.


Wow: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22319/ex-blc-1599/EK_Geforce_GTX_780_HOF_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_White_Acetal_Nickel_EK-FC780_GTX_HOF_-_White_AcetalNickel.html#blank How come there aren't any more white-acetal blocks for other cards? It looks really nice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Just EK'd up my main components...
> 
> If you're interested, feel free to follow along my build here or on youtube!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1575908/build-log-nostromo-x99-rve-5960x-980ti-3-way-sli-caselabs-sth10-petg-aquacomputer-update-motherboard-painted/
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8SlxwK1Ky7NY4uD7OogblQ


Wait a sec, I thought Bitspower fittings weren't compatible with PrimoChill rigid?


----------



## SteezyTN

Is there any update on the 140 Vardar recall? I want to wait for PPCS to get the new ones in stock, so that way I can send mine back (and not have to pay additional shipping)


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We made white for the 780 HOF. However, we don't plan on making any blocks for the 980 Ti HOF or future HOF cards in general, sorry.


Ah, too bad. Well, back to black acetal blocks and vinyl wrapping them XD


----------



## derickwm

http://www.overclock.net/t/1576139/sponsored-lian-li-pc-o8-xpower-gaming-titanium-skylake-liquid-cooling


----------



## Maticb

Some new EK SWAG arrived and installed in the RIG









Excuse the image quality, I invest everything in my PC and don't really care about my phone hehe.



Shiny cards











Done:

*I didnt realize the sticker was still over the mosfet block logo when I took this image.

And finally a really bad contrast image with the windowed side on.


----------



## tistou77

Hello

For those who have used the silicone cord 12mm Ek Waterblock, have you had a "defect" on the cord ?
Which was transferred to the tube during the "bending" (because of the heat on the tube) ?

I did change cord by the seller, and the news that I received at the same "problem"
No worries with cords of other brands





Thanks


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> Some new EK SWAG arrived and installed in the RIG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excuse the image quality, I invest everything in my PC and don't really care about my phone hehe.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shiny cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I didnt realize the sticker was still over the mosfet block logo when I took this image.
> 
> And finally a really bad contrast image with the windowed side on.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice swag and system.








I bet you don't have to travel very far to get your EK blocks!


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Is there any update on the 140 Vardar recall?


Check out my post a bit further up and EK's response.

Current eta is for around 2nd half of November....


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Very nice swag and system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bet you don't have to travel very far to get your EK blocks!


Technically it's a 1 hour drive but that's like driving 1/4 the length of my country and we consider that far here lol. It's cheaper to pay 4€ for shipping and basically any shipment sent in a country as small as this arrives next day.


----------



## Anateus

Now that is true customer support!

I opened RMA ticket because of my 5 F4-120ER Vardar Coil whine. Wanted to get a replacement or refund...
and guess what?
EK are sending me FIVE brand new Vardars - and I dont have to send faulty ones back!
And I was wondering whether to get a refund and buy Gentle Typhoons...


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Now that is true customer support!
> 
> I opened RMA ticket because of my 5 F4-120ER Vardar Coil whine. Wanted to get a replacement or refund...
> and guess what?
> EK are sending me FIVE brand new Vardars - and I dont have to send faulty ones back!
> And I was wondering whether to get a refund and buy Gentle Typhoons...


That is nice, but to be fair those fans were already recalled


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> That is nice, but to be fair those fans were already recalled


He has the 120mm Vardars not the 140mm Vardars. The 120mm aren't on a recall list. They were just faulty.


----------



## staccker

Very excited to finally get some toys to join the club and start a loop.


----------



## derickwm

All done guys!
































































More:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1576139/sponsored-lian-li-pc-o8-xpower-gaming-titanium-skylake-liquid-cooling/40#post_24552129


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Sick build man congrats!


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Now that is true customer support!
> 
> I opened RMA ticket because of my 5 F4-120ER Vardar Coil whine. Wanted to get a replacement or refund...
> and guess what?
> EK are sending me FIVE brand new Vardars - and I dont have to send faulty ones back!
> And I was wondering whether to get a refund and buy Gentle Typhoons...


Is the coil whine the reason mine make a strong growling sound at moderate to lower RPMs and not at higher?


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Is the coil whine the reason mine make a strong growling sound at moderate to lower RPMs and not at higher?


Not sure. Have you screwed them well to the radiator? It might be just vibrations coming from them. I actually though they are damn noisy before I took one in hand while it was working - and its damn silent (AS for 2k RPM obviously)


----------



## King4x4

Derick outdid himself again!


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Not sure. Have you screwed them well to the radiator? It might be just vibrations coming from them. I actually though they are damn noisy before I took one in hand while it was working - and its damn silent (AS for 2k RPM obviously)


I tried tightly screwing them down. I tried loosely. I tried in-between. I tried not screwing some screws in, loosening some, tightening some. I tried putting a piece of tissue folded into one corner. The fan's growl sound went away and came back when its housing was pulled up, pressed down, or screwed in a certain way.

I've never heard a fan growl like this before. It's coming from the motor not contact with the radiator. But, I will take the noisiest one off the radiator completely and make sure.


----------



## Anateus

Run and listem to it on rad, then take it in your hand and run it again at 100%. Mine showed difference. Guess I could use some rubber gaskets.


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Run and listem to it on rad, then take it in your hand and run it again at 100%. Mine showed difference. Guess I could use some rubber gaskets.


They only seem to be noisy like this when on PWM. When they're set to any single speed they don't growl. But, I will try your suggestion also.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Is the coil whine the reason mine make a strong growling sound at moderate to lower RPMs and not at higher?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> They only seem to be noisy like this when on PWM. When they're set to any single speed they don't growl. But, I will try your suggestion also.


I don't know if your 'growling' noise could be similar to a 'ticking' noise, but it may be a result of the fan's PWM control. Particularly if the noise is worst at slower speeds and gone when not controlled by PWM.

I happen to read the comment below a couple days ago when checking out Noctua's fans:
Quote:


> Most conventional PWM fan driver ICs put out square signals that cause sudden torque impulses. These impulses can cause minute deformations of the entire fan structure which lead to audible "clicking" noises that are especially noticeable with many common PWM fans running at slower speeds. Adopting Noctua's Smooth Commutation Drive (SCD) technology, the custom designed NE-FD1 PWM IC slows down the slew rate of the output signal in order to give a smoother, less sudden torque impulse. This way, PWM switching noises can be effectively suppressed and the fan runs even quieter, especially at low speeds.


I am a novice with PWM fans, but thought I would just toss this into the hopper for your consideration.


----------



## snef




----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very handsome, Sir!


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Very hard to follow any of Snef's pics but oh well TY to Igor @ EKWB for getting this white CPU top to me it's going to make the inside of the build


----------



## funfordcobra

Replaced my 150 ml res/pump combo with your 250 ml tube for a 250 ml res/ pump combo.

I can say that my idle temps are 18c-20c but it's because I just moved to colorado and coming from Texas is a big ambient change!


----------



## trainplane3

I have a question about the new Asus VIII series Monoblock. Does the acrylic (clear one) have the little holes on the sides to put led's into?


----------



## BrjSan

Hey folks ...

Any body can help .... which GPU block for this EVGA



I could find the strix, WF3 ... on the EK webshop .... but which one is for this EVGA ??

peace


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Hey folks ...
> 
> Any body can help .... which GPU block for this EVGA
> 
> 
> 
> I could find the strix, WF3 ... on the EK webshop .... but which one is for this EVGA ??
> 
> peace


EK didn't make a EVGA 980ti reference or ACX block, they used the Titan X block due to it being compatible.

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-titan-x-nickel

You can also check your cards compatibility with this:

http://www.ekwb.com/configurator/


----------



## BrjSan

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> EK didn't make a EVGA 980ti reference or ACX block, they used the Titan X block due to it being compatible.
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-titan-x-nickel
> 
> You can also check your cards compatibility with this:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/configurator/






Oh ... thanks m8 ....







... helpful


----------



## orvils

Bought an EK Thermosphere for my EVGA GTX 970 SSC ACX2.0+ since there are no full cover blocks from EK for my card.
After some modifications of the block and mounting plate I finally managed to mount it. It could be done much easier if I wouldn't use aluminum faceplate that ssc version has. But I wanted that and without faceplate, evga backplate would have nothing to screw on to.
Here is a pic of modified g80 mounting plate:









Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk


----------



## willemdoom

A while back I read here about a problem with Monsoon fittings. So what is the problem exactly, I plan on buying them, should I or should I not?

This post to be exactly:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Monsoon you say? Do they have silver bases? If they do then there is the more likely issue. The newer Monsoon fittings have silver/ silver plated bases. From what I understand of the past issues, silver kill coil contributed the Nickel plate flaking off of blocks. But since I don't exactly know whether you have the newer style Monsoon fittings, I cannot say this is the case for certain. But I have a feeling that this is the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:...
> 
> Love your new Graphs, Fast Fate. Much cleaner looking than the dot, line graphs I've seen. Keep those. I could read em on my phone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


----------



## cheesewood

Recently joined the EK Club.









EKWB D5 PWM Pump
EKWB Reservoir
EKWB 240MM PE Rad
EKWB 360MM PE Rad
EKWB Compression fittings
EKWB GTX980Ti ASUS Strix Water block
EKWB Supremacy EVO Copper CPU block
XSPC Temp probe
Primochill Clear 10/13mm piping
6 x ThermalTake RIING RGB 256 Fans


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trainplane3*
> 
> I have a question about the new Asus VIII series Monoblock. Does the acrylic (clear one) have the little holes on the sides to put led's into?


No sorry


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cheesewood*
> 
> Recently joined the EK Club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> EKWB D5 PWM Pump
> EKWB Reservoir
> EKWB 240MM PE Rad
> EKWB 360MM PE Rad
> EKWB Compression fittings
> EKWB GTX980Ti ASUS Strix Water block
> EKWB Supremacy EVO Copper CPU block
> XSPC Temp probe
> Primochill Clear 10/13mm piping
> 
> 
> 6 x ThermalTake RIING RGB 256 Fans
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Need more shots of the Build.

I really like the Thermaltake Ring Fans, but I though't those guys tried to replicate the Caselabs Case's?

TCO


----------



## cheesewood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Need more shots of the Build.
> 
> I really like the Thermaltake Ring Fans, but I though't those guys tried to replicate the Caselabs Case's?
> 
> TCO


Here are some pics:


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I really like the Thermaltake Ring Fans, but I though't those guys tried to replicate the Caselabs Case's?
> 
> TCO


They did.

Caselabs doesn't make ring fans though.









Im not a brand loyalist and that type of thing doesnt really bother me. Caselabs from what ive seen still have a better quality product. Just like any industry products will be copied. I just weigh in the pros and cons if going with any brand.


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing a new EK-DBAY Spin Reservoir!


----------



## snef




----------



## derickwm

EKWB crate


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> EKWB crate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


is this a prototype of a stealth sleeper case...?


----------



## MIGhunter

Quick question about jetplates. Am I better off using the j3 multipurpose or the j4 for my 2011-v3 chip? It says j4 is optimized but it's there really a difference?


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Quick question about jetplates. Am I better off using the j3 multipurpose or the j4 for my 2011-v3 chip? It says j4 is optimized but it's there really a difference?


I ve been with the same situation, and *most*said no big difference.

For me, i kept the default jets, dis-assembling the brand new out, of the box cpu block only to switch the jets was not a deal, i planned to switch the jets when maintenance time hits and need to clean the block.

that was my experience.

peace


----------



## bagoshi

Can't seem to find the d5 vario 140 combo anywhere. Is it discontinued?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bagoshi*
> 
> Can't seem to find the d5 vario 140 combo anywhere. Is it discontinued?


IIRC they discontinued the square one for the Revo: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> IIRC they discontinued the square one for the Revo: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump


Too bad they didn't keep both. I like the square one.


----------



## bagoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Too bad they didn't keep both. I like the square one.


I'm actually looking for the vario version. Any idea if they will release that version of revo?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bagoshi*
> 
> I'm actually looking for the vario version. Any idea if they will release that version of revo?


I believe you will have to buy a reservoir and pump separately.
Then if you want to emulate the 140 size, you need to get a larger tube also.


----------



## bagoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I believe you will have to buy a reservoir and pump separately.
> Then if you want to emulate the 140 size, you need to get a larger tube also.


Thanks InfoSeeker for the links!

I found the reddit where they stated they are "steering away from non-pwm", but wouldn't answer why. I would prefer to set my speed and forget it.


----------



## iBruce

Asked this question a month ago, about Naked Ivy mount working with Skylake 6700K.

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-precisemount-add-on-naked-ivy

The page now says "CAUTION: No official support for de-lidded 6th (Skylake) generation Intel® Core i3/i5/i7 CPUs!"

Does that mean it does not work at all?

Or does it mean it works just fine but proceed at your own risk?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Asked this question a month ago, about Naked Ivy mount working with Skylake 6700K.
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-precisemount-add-on-naked-ivy
> 
> The page now says "CAUTION: No official support for de-lidded 6th (Skylake) generation Intel® Core i3/i5/i7 CPUs!"
> 
> Does that mean it does not work at all?
> 
> Or does it mean it works just fine but proceed at your own risk?


The statement at the bottom of the product page says it all?
Quote:


> Caution:
> - This product is intended to be used by expert users only as removing the CPU IHS is a delicate process. EK Water Blocks will not be held responsible for any failed removal operation that resulted in death of the computer component!
> - Please do not try to remove IHS from previous generation Intel® Core i3/i5/i7 CPUs (such as Sandy Bridge, Clarkdale and Arrandale) as the core (die) is soldered to the IHS with aforementioned models. Any attemps to remove the IHS from such processor will result in irreparable damage to the CPU! Please note that removing the IHS from your Intel® CPU will result in voiding the warranty!


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The statement at the bottom of the product page says it all?


Siliconlottery is doing the delidding,

I'm just hoping for an affirmative from EK that everything lines up dimensionally and there is no air gap between the die and the Supremacy EVO cold plate OR the EVO wont crush the die when mounted with normal finger tight pressure.

I realize the remainder of the risk is mine.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bagoshi*
> 
> Thanks InfoSeeker for the links!
> 
> I found the reddit where they stated they are "steering away from non-pwm", but wouldn't answer why. I would prefer to set my speed and forget it.


I haven't heard it from EK directly but I assume it must be related to the upcoming EK fan and pump controller that is PWM focused.

To me, the vario will always have a role and not offering one is a mistake. The pwm version of the d5 is something of a hack, so unless/until Laing design a new d5 with a proper pwm implementation I would avoid them. I use the USB version of the vario though to be honest


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bagoshi*
> 
> Thanks InfoSeeker for the links!
> 
> I found the reddit where they stated they are "steering away from non-pwm", but wouldn't answer why. I would prefer to set my speed and forget it.
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't heard it from EK directly but I assume it must be related to the upcoming EK fan and pump controller that is PWM focused.
> 
> I would definitely have to agree with this. Since you can just as easily set and forget in software, there's really no downside.
> 
> Add in the ability to plug a Koolance flow meter, (no frequency adapter module required) right on the controller, and you have power to the pump and flow rate being monitored. Add in some temp sensors, and some useful power predictions can be software generated.
> 
> To me, the vario will always have a role and not offering one is a mistake. *The pwm version of the d5 is something of a hack, so unless/until Laing design a new d5 with a proper pwm implementation* I would avoid them. I use the USB version of the vario though to be honest
Click to expand...

I would not agree with calling it a hack, as that implies negative connotation.

It's a design choice, and generally, a well reasoned one.

Normally, all PC PWM devices run at max with no PWM connection being made.

Most people don't need to run a D5 at max by default, so the factory implementation of having it run at 60% by default, (no PWM connection) actually makes sense.

The only PWM controller that seems not to support the generic PWM D5 is the Aquaero, and I have to believe that that's a matter of design choice on their part to force users to have to buy their branded pumps if they want effective speed control.

Adding a pullup to the controller will override the 60% by default aspect of the pump, has no downside, and allows the controller to be virtually universal, . . . . That's the real reason AC doesn't have it . . . . hurts their pump sales.

Darlene


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I would not agree with calling it a hack, as that implies negative connotation.
> 
> It's a design choice, and generally, a well reasoned one.
> 
> Normally, all PC PWM devices run at max with no PWM connection being made.
> 
> Most people don't need to run a D5 at max by default, so the factory implementation of having it run at 60% by default, (no PWM connection) actually makes sense.
> 
> The only PWM controller that seems not to support the generic PWM D5 is the Aquaero, and I have to believe that that's a matter of design choice on their part to force users to have to buy their branded pumps if they want effective speed control.
> 
> Adding a pullup to the controller will override the 60% by default aspect of the pump, has no downside, and allows the controller to be virtually universal, . . . . That's the real reason AC doesn't have it . . . . hurts their pump sales.
> 
> Darlene


When they are great, they are really great and Darlene is one of those.









Yep, I tried an EK D5 PWM with my Aquaero 6 and it offered no speed control whatsoever.

Ended up purchasing an AquaComputer D5 PWM pump, yes an extra $90, I didn't really want to spend, but seamless operation with the Aquaero 6 and AC AquaSuite was the objective from the beginning.

EK and AC both outstanding companies in my humble opinion.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4310_zpsnaqnwd0x.jpg.html


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Yep, I tried an EK D5 PWM with my Aquaero 6 and it offered no speed control whatsoever.


If only Signalkuppe was released already.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Asked this question a month ago, about Naked Ivy mount working with Skylake 6700K.
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-precisemount-add-on-naked-ivy
> 
> The page now says "CAUTION: No official support for de-lidded 6th (Skylake) generation Intel® Core i3/i5/i7 CPUs!"
> 
> Does that mean it does not work at all?
> 
> Or does it mean it works just fine but proceed at your own risk?


It won't work at all. PCB is so thin that it bends causing pins not to make contact with the CPU: http://www.overclock.net/t/1568357/skylake-delidded/460_20#post_24456021 and http://www.overclock.net/t/1568357/skylake-delidded/460_20#post_24462358


----------



## funfordcobra

Going to do a new caselabs S8 build and have my first go at acrylic. Think I'm keeping the X99 Deluxe/5820k since EK is about to come out with a monoblock for it and skip skylake. Maybe 5930k for the extra PCIE lanes just so I can do that watercooled intel SSD upgrade. It seems unnecessary but looks cool.

Is it best to bend or just straight tubes with fittings instead on heat bends? My train on thought is always less fittings, less points of failure, the better. I've already had one x2 45 EK fitting drip when swiveled. Luckily it is at the bottom and hasn't leaked since, (not even a drop but I could see the UV wetness) but that makes very nervous about the one I'm using above my GPUs on my CPU. I was thinking of just taking it off next time I drain.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Going to do a new caselabs S8 build and have my first go at acrylic. Think I'm keeping the X99 Deluxe/5820k since EK is about to come out with a monoblock for it and skip skylake. Maybe 5930k for the extra PCIE lanes just so I can do that watercooled intel SSD upgrade. It seems unnecessary but looks cool.
> 
> Is it best to bend or just straight tubes with fittings instead on heat bends? My train on thought is always less fittings, less points of failure, the better. I've already had one x2 45 EK fitting drip when swiveled. Luckily it is at the bottom and hasn't leaked since, (not even a drop but I could see the UV wetness) but that makes very nervous about the one I'm using above my GPUs on my CPU. I was thinking of just taking it off next time I drain.


I did my first hardline tubing over a month ago. As long as you tighten it all correctly you wont see any leaks. Also, my advice - use PETG instead of acrylic. Its so much better.


----------



## funfordcobra

Yea I couldn't remember the name for some reason lol. PETG is what I was going to do.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Going to do a new caselabs S8 build and have my first go at acrylic. Think I'm keeping the X99 Deluxe/5820k since EK is about to come out with a monoblock for it and skip skylake. Maybe 5930k for the extra PCIE lanes just so I can do that watercooled intel SSD upgrade. It seems unnecessary but looks cool.
> 
> Is it best to bend or just straight tubes with fittings instead on heat bends? My train on thought is always less fittings, less points of failure, the better. I've already had one x2 45 EK fitting drip when swiveled. Luckily it is at the bottom and hasn't leaked since, (not even a drop but I could see the UV wetness) but that makes very nervous about the one I'm using above my GPUs on my CPU. I was thinking of just taking it off next time I drain.


If you just have two cards I'd say stick with the 5820K with 8x/8x for each. The 5820Ks seem to overclock a bit better.

IIRC bending is better than 90 degree fittings (for flow rates) but just ever so slightly. IMO the 90 degree fittings look better but that can get expensive.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Well, here's what I did! All EK blocks (because they're pretty......... and black):




(Apologies for crap photos, I'm useless at it and the phone camera doesn't help! Hopefully, I'll have a decent camera over the weekend and with some advice from a friend will shoot a few half-decent pics)

EDIT: Tubing is temporary! I have copper tubing waiting for me to get a bender and chrome plate it


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> It won't work at all. PCB is so thin that it bends causing pins not to make contact with the CPU: http://www.overclock.net/t/1568357/skylake-delidded/460_20#post_24456021 and http://www.overclock.net/t/1568357/skylake-delidded/460_20#post_24462358


thank you, +rep.

I will go ahead with the delidding from Siliconlottery, but I will use the IHS instead of going naked.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> thank you, +rep.
> 
> I will go ahead with the delidding from Siliconlottery, but I will use the IHS instead of going naked.


Also, it might be worth not having them reseal it. A lot of people have stated that the stock Intel TIM is junk but later on I heard the opposite; the reason it performs poorly is the sealing of the IHS causes a gap to form between the IHS and die which results in reduced thermal performance. Have a look at this:



Source: http://forums.anandtech.com/showpost.php?p=34053183

You'll see the stock TIM is actually pretty damn good in comparison to Noctua's NT-H1 which is considered a pretty decent performer:


----------



## funfordcobra

So how many 90s before you need dual pumps do you estimate?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I would not agree with calling it a hack, as that implies negative connotation.
> 
> It's a design choice, and generally, a well reasoned one.
> 
> Normally, all PC PWM devices run at max with no PWM connection being made.
> 
> Most people don't need to run a D5 at max by default, so the factory implementation of having it run at 60% by default, (no PWM connection) actually makes sense.
> 
> The only PWM controller that seems not to support the generic PWM D5 is the Aquaero, and I have to believe that that's a matter of design choice on their part to force users to have to buy their branded pumps if they want effective speed control.
> 
> Adding a pullup to the controller will override the 60% by default aspect of the pump, has no downside, and allows the controller to be virtually universal, . . . . That's the real reason AC doesn't have it . . . . hurts their pump sales.
> 
> Darlene


I can't say I have any inside info or anything but my impression of the pwm after examining it is that the pwm functionality is tacked on to the regular vario rather than a dedicated design. I thought I had heard of some motherboards that didn't like it and saying the Aquaero is the only controller that doesn't work right isn't all that significant because pwm controllers are thin on the ground anyway. Maybe more would have problems if they existed









If you have an Aquaero I think the USB version is a far superior choice anyway, so i would hope they wouldn't really deliberately hurt compatibility.

Unless the pump is difficult to access. Which is not unusual to be fair, the vario offers simple worry free operation with none of the pwm fussiness.
I agree that the 40% pressure default is not an all bad thing but quite a few people have issues bleeding at default and having to hotwire the pump is no big deal but not newbie friendly either.


----------



## iBruce

Talked with Siliconlottery he said I could order the 6700K like this:

1. no tim replacement

2. no IHS resealed

3. IHS included with CPU

So should I just replace the IHS in position, yet leave it unsealed? IF that gives the best result, then I have no problem following that method.

Then I just have to choose the best TIM for die to IHS interface and IHS to Supremacy EVO. Considering Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut for the latter application.

I have some old Cool Laboratory TIM but I really don't want to use it.


----------



## Thoth420

Rough schematics for my build. Any issues? Not going for any absolutely insane OCs.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I doubt a 250 res will fit there.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I doubt a 250 res will fit there.


All been measured to fit. The beauty of the short length of the fury x (or a nano).








...or did you mean height?
I thought the same and originally planned to remove the ssd bays and had it mounted horizontally.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> All been measured to fit. The beauty of the short length of the fury x (or a nano).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...or did you mean height?
> I thought the same and originally planned to remove the ssd bays and had it mounted horizontally.


Yeah height. My 250 pump res is nearly as tall as my 360 rads. If you have measured and are sure maybe mine is different. I'm not very familiar with that NZXT case either. The pic just looked to be underestimating just how big a large res with pump and mount system is.

It always seems to me that 250 is too big but 150 too small. A 200 would be nice ... especially when planning to use multiport top with fittings attached to it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Those shutoff valves...









~Ceadder


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah height. My 250 pump res is nearly as tall as my 360 rads. If you have measured and are sure maybe mine is different.


I'll double check that thanks! I can survive with a smaller one if need be.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Talked with Siliconlottery he said I could order the 6700K like this:
> 
> 1. no tim replacement
> 
> 2. no IHS resealed
> 
> 3. IHS included with CPU
> 
> So should I just replace the IHS in position, yet leave it unsealed? IF that gives the best result, then I have no problem following that method.
> 
> Then I just have to choose the best TIM for die to IHS interface and IHS to Supremacy EVO. Considering Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut for the latter application.
> 
> I have some old Cool Laboratory TIM but I really don't want to use it.


Yeah, I wouldn't have them reseal it tbh. In the future you could replace the Tim with CLU or CLP easily for even lower Temps or go direct die if ek releases one for skylake.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Talked with Siliconlottery he said I could order the 6700K like this:
> 
> 1. no tim replacement
> 
> 2. no IHS resealed
> 
> 3. IHS included with CPU
> 
> So should I just replace the IHS in position, yet leave it unsealed? IF that gives the best result, then I have no problem following that method.
> 
> Then I just have to choose the best TIM for die to IHS interface and IHS to Supremacy EVO. Considering Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut for the latter application.
> 
> I have some old Cool Laboratory TIM but I really don't want to use it.


I'd say ask him to replace stock TIM with CLU and reseal the IHS. He uses very little amount of epoxy adhesive that is way less thicker than that intel black gooey, and its also easier to remove IHS afterwards in case you really need to.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Rough schematics for my build. Any issues? Not going for any absolutely insane OCs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I doubt a 250 res will fit there.


Maybe the confusion is coming from the the fact the res is labeled 250 ml, not 250 mm.

Maybe the 250ml volume res is a lot shorter than a 250mm tall res.

D.


----------



## MIGhunter

Hey guys, I'm finally ready to join the club!

I do have 2 questions though. I asked this in the watercooling pic thread but no bites..

1. I'm using soft tubing. How would you guys route it in this pic? I don't have any 90 degree fittings. Just normal fittings.

2. How would you mount the pump? The fan spot one the bottom right where I had planned to put it is covered by the PSU. The little spot on the far right with pre-drilled holes is blocked by the rad.



I'm thinking about mounting the pump on the right, almost up against the radiator. There are 4 screw mounts there. However, in doing that, there is no room for tubing. So, I was thinking about flipping the radiator over, moving it up and the resevoir down some. Doing that puts the fittings for the 240 rad pretty close to the fittings of the 360 rad. How much of a bend can you put in soft tubing before it starts to kink? I also assume, once it has water in it and gets warm, kinking will happen easier? Should I flip the 360 rad around so that the fittings are at the back of the case? Doing that will mean a longer piece of tuning across the top.

Here is how I originally envisioned the loop


----------



## half

Hi,

i think my new rig allowes me to enter the EK Club:

Hi,

showing my upgraded version of Red Velvet.

*Red Velvet 2.0*


Hadron Hydro Case modded
Intel i7 4790K
Maximus VI Impact
Asus 980 STRIX
Silverstone SFX600-G
Corsair Dominator 16GB
Samsung 850 EVO M2 500GB
Samsung 850 EVO 1TB
OCZ Vertex 500GB

_*Custom Water Loop*_

2 x EK Coolstream PE 240
4 x Noctua NF-F12 PWM
EK-DDC 3.2 XRES 100
EK-ACF Fittings
EK Supremacy Nickel
EK Thermosphere Nickel







I hope you like it. Will post some updates with Benchmark results.


----------



## funfordcobra

Is it better to have the end of the loop exit (pour) into the top of the res rather than the ports by the intake. (I'm talking about the d5 combo pump / res.
Thx.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Is it better to have the end of the loop exit (pour) into the top of the res rather than the ports by the intake. (I'm talking about the d5 combo pump / res.
> Thx.


Both will work equally. One thing to remember though, is that if you want to return by the top, you would ideally want to add the multi port top because there's usually only one port on the normal top and it's normally used to fill your loop.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Both will work equally. One thing to remember though, is that if you want to return by the top, you would ideally want to add the multi port top because there's usually only one port on the normal top and it's normally used to fill your loop.


I have two d5 res/pump combos in my build (in progress), and I would definitely recommend the multiport top because of the all the options you have. I will be using both tops as my inlet, and I still have other options to fill the reservoirs


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

@akira749 Any news on when the new Vardar 140s will be out?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> @akira749 Any news on when the new Vardar 140s will be out?


I'd like to know also, I have $50+ in store credit at PPCS, just waiting for the replacement Vardar 140mm PWM 2000rpm ERs to arrive.


----------



## funfordcobra

Thanks guys. I have been just unscrewing the entire top to fill but I see what you are saying now exactally.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> @akira749 Any news on when the new Vardar 140s will be out?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I'd like to know also, I have $50+ in store credit at PPCS, just waiting for the replacement Vardar 140mm PWM 2000rpm ERs to arrive.


The F2 and F3 models will be back in stock early next week.

The F4 model is still being reworked because we were not happy with it yet.


----------



## snef




----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The F2 and F3 models will be back in stock early next week.
> 
> The F4 model is still being reworked because we were not happy with it yet.


So the F3-140ER PWM (2000rpm) will be available early next week?

These are the black frame - black blades - black cabling PWM Extended Range way down to 313rpm.

Are these the ones you mean? Are you certain? Are you positive?









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3719_zpswjecqhjx.jpg.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Fire those puppies up and listen to them. It could be you got some from their previous batch. Could be that you didn't. But I would certainly check them to be on the safe side. Cuz you simply never know.









~Ceadder


----------



## gdubc

Went to microcenter today and they stocked up pretty good.
Further down the aisle they have easily over 20 of the predator kits and all the new Evo coolants as well as pastels, but when I asked if they would be getting Vardars and was told it was very doubtful. Strange they don't carry a sure seller like Vardars but they feel the need for stacks of titan waterblocks/backplates, lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Meh. I bet they were counting on Titans to be big sellers to their water cooling customers.









Personally the stocking manager should be fired or demoted. No way there should be 10 of anything custom based on the shelf. Fans yes. Predators mebbe. Titan blocks? Yeah ummmm NOT! No more than 5 and order as necessary. Tri-SLi would be covered as well as dual SLi. Heck even quad. But that's just daft to trow the money at a custom block and let dust settle on the packaging.









~Ceadder


----------



## gdubc

They waited until after the titans were out for a while before even stocking those, so they will continue to sit as well. They told me that no one at the store does an order, that everything that gets shipped to them is arranged by the mothership, lol.


----------



## Vintage

wow that's a lot of EK. My Microcenter was nothing close to that lol


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> wow that's a lot of EK


Bahhh.... I reckon a lot of us have more than that sitting around at home....


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> wow that's a lot of EK. My Microcenter was nothing close to that lol


yea mine neither last time i was there, guess its time for a new saturday morning trip!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Went to microcenter today and they stocked up pretty good.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Further down the aisle they have easily over 20 of the predator kits and all the new Evo coolants as well as pastels, but when I asked if they would be getting Vardars and was told it was very doubtful. Strange they don't carry a sure seller like Vardars but they feel the need for stacks of titan waterblocks/backplates, lol.


Wow! I wish I live near that microcenter.


----------



## derickwm

All Micro Centers should be stocked evenly, if they aren't, or are missing a product you want, please tell a manager and it will be ordered









As for Vardars, at this time they won't be stocked by MC.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> So the F3-140ER PWM (2000rpm) will be available early next week?
> 
> These are the black frame - black blades - black cabling PWM Extended Range way down to 313rpm.
> 
> Are these the ones you mean? Are you certain? Are you positive?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3719_zpswjecqhjx.jpg.html


That's the info I had. We'll have to see next week if it includes the ER.


----------



## Anateus




----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> All Micro Centers should be stocked evenly, if they aren't, or are missing a product you want, please tell a manager and it will be ordered
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for Vardars, at this time they won't be stocked by MC.


Also from what my microcenter guy told me is go to there website than choose microcenter web store and if your microcenter doesn't have what you want or in stock you can have it shipped to the store of your choice for free and pick it up. That's what I've done on the past. Wish they carried the fans. But microcenter charges a lot for there fans sp120 29.99 a peice


----------



## superstition222

I got my L360 2.0 kit at Microcenter. They need to stock at least one PWM 140mm fan. Bizarre that they don't have even one.


----------



## gdubc

They use to stock scythe gts but now the fan selection is overpriced poo poo.


----------



## iBruce

Anyone have an EK X4 250 reservoir up and running in a loop yet? I'd love to see some pics. I got one for a current build but think I'll just hold on to it and use it when smaller glass tubes become available, then I might incorporate it into a loop at first water change.

Until then, picked up an X3 white bottom, two X3 white tops the simple and the multiport, and a 140 tube and anticyclonic insert. I needed some more white accents anyway in the build and it's only a small CaseLabs S8S chassis so this res is ideal for now, less weight less coolant, small chassis.

But I will move to the X4 as soon as more component parts (smaller tubes, white tops) for the series become available, maybe next year sometime.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4210_zpsbckjntmi.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4350_zpshuip7wfu.jpg.html


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Anyone have an EK X4 250 reservoir up and running in a loop yet? I'd love to see some pics. I got one for a current build but think I'll just hold on to it and use it when smaller glass tubes become available, then I might incorporate it into a loop at first water change.
> 
> Until then, picked up an X3 white bottom, two X3 white tops the simple and the multiport, and a 140 tube and anticyclonic insert. I needed some more white accents anyway in the build and it's only a small CaseLabs S8S chassis so this res is ideal for now, less weight less coolant, small chassis.
> 
> But I will move to the X4 as soon as more component parts (smaller tubes, white tops) for the series become available, maybe next year sometime.


I'll have my build finished once I get my RMA back for my X4. It's going into an S8S also, just have to run the tubing and it will be done. I'll put some pics up then.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Hey guys! Put together a video of me putting on all the waterblocks, including the Rampage V monoblock:


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> I'll have my build finished once I get my RMA back for my X4. It's going into an S8S also, just have to run the tubing and it will be done. I'll put some pics up then.


Wow man, where are you placing the X4 inside the S8S?

I thought about this.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/EK X4_zpsvnjiruyx.png.html


----------



## Asus11

I noticed you have a kit for the inwin D frame Mini

which is all cool and all but I basically have everything in the kit but my pump is EK D5 100 XRES

would this fit straight in ? or is there a special bracket for the case?

heres the kit https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-kit-d240-in-win-d-frame-mini-drop-in

heres my D5 pump https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xres-100-d5-pwm-incl-pump

thanks!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> I noticed you have a kit for the inwin D frame Mini
> 
> which is all cool and all but I basically have everything in the kit but my pump is EK D5 100 XRES
> 
> would this fit straight in ? or is there a special bracket for the case?
> 
> heres the kit https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-kit-d240-in-win-d-frame-mini-drop-in
> 
> heres my D5 pump https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xres-100-d5-pwm-incl-pump
> 
> thanks!


The bracket you have with your pump is the same that is included in the kit


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The bracket you have with your pump is the same that is included in the kit


now time to source a deal on a inwin!

do you think a 240mm is ok for GPU/CPU?

considering its an open air rig?

thats the only thing thats worrying me


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> now time to source a deal on a inwin!
> 
> do you think a 240mm is ok for GPU/CPU?
> 
> considering its an open air rig?
> 
> thats the only thing thats worrying me


I would just do some benching and gaming to see. Worst case you may have to downclock your CPU and GPU. Is it the parts from the Mini Rager?


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I would just do some benching and gaming to see. Worst case you may have to downclock your CPU and GPU. Is it the parts from the Mini Rager?


yup all in the mini rager rig

im currently running my corsair air 240 with no panels as it runs really cool

max temp CPU in gaming 58c @ 1.325v 4,8ghz

GPU max temp in games 55c @ 1.224v 1470/8000

I dont have an EK Titan X block to test and im trying to gauge temps

the Swiftech H220 does an epic job on the CPU im wondering what would happen with a EK D5 with the CPU + GPU as the inwin D frame mini only has space for 1 240mm


----------



## ratzofftoya

Do y'all know if I can us a bit of TIM on the chips of a stick of RAM before putting the Monarchs on? Seem to have misplaced the pads...


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Wow man, where are you placing the X4 inside the S8S?
> 
> I thought about this.
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/EK X4_zpsvnjiruyx.png.html


I'm putting the reservoir on the bottom 140 fan mount in front of the PSU. Using a 140 to 120mm bracket so I can use the included 120mm floor mount on the reservoir. I'm using the pedestal with mine so I'm just going to use the bottom ports on the reservoir to go straight to the pump in the pedestal.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Do y'all know if I can us a bit of TIM on the chips of a stick of RAM before putting the Monarchs on? Seem to have misplaced the pads...


I don't think the RAM module will be retained as you're missing the thickness of the pads, 2 or 3 mm, so you need the pads.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> I don't think the RAM module will be retained as you're missing the thickness of the pads, 2 or 3 mm, so you need the pads.


I will have to affirm this after recently taking the monarch adapters off of a set of ram to sell both separately.


----------



## akira749

EK releases new Revo Dual D5 PWM pump setup


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases new Revo Dual D5 PWM pump setup


Reminds me of Marion's final scene from Requiem for a Dream


----------



## VSG

LOL


----------



## Willius

That was by far the most funny thing I read today.


----------



## snef

GO HABS GO! Update

build is done,
we will give it to the kid on November 21
i will post some pics and video of him receiving the computer ,

again i want to say a BIG Thanks you to everyone who help me on this one , believe me the Children will LOVE IT! a lot, im sure
and want to say Thanks to Parvum System for the very great case, EK for water cooling stuff, Darkside and Moddingstylez for all modding goodies and led
and for sure everyone who sent me hardware like Kennah fo APU, Nass for Motherboard, Bartacus for Power supply, Stéphane Omer Landry for the GPU and member of overcloqc.com, hope i dont forgot someone

Thanks a lot to everyone


----------



## Asus11

EPIC ^ very nice


----------



## fisher6

Do I need to use an extender with the EK multi port top? I think one of my 90 degrees might be leaking slowly:


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Do I need to use an extender with the EK multi port top? I think one of my 90 degrees might be leaking slowly:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes you need to use the extender since the ports are recessed.


----------



## MIGhunter

Does anyone know if this is female on both sides?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-12mm-f-f-g1-4-nickel.html


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Does anyone know if this is female on both sides?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-12mm-f-f-g1-4-nickel.html


If you look at the details you will see it says... F-F, meaning female, female:
Quote:


> EK-AF Extender 12mm F-F is suitable to connect two fittings/Adapters with male G1/4 threads.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Reminds me of Marion's final scene from Requiem for a Dream


http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/giphy_zpsudhngl41.gif.html


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> If you look at the details you will see it says... F-F, meaning female, female:


This is why I ask:

I bought a 90 degree fitting and a rottery extension. The extension has male connectors on both ends. So should I buy a double female sided extension and and connect the 3 pieces together?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-rotary-m-m-g1-4-nickel.html
Plus
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-12mm-f-f-g1-4-nickel.html
Plus
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-fitting-nickel.html

Or, is it better to just buy 1 50mm extension so that it's less connections?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-50mm-m-f-g1-4-nickel.html
Plus
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-fitting-nickel.html


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases new Revo Dual D5 PWM pump setup


Any chance to see this top being sold solo?


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> This is why I ask:
> 
> I bought a 90 degree fitting and a rottery extension. The extension has male connectors on both ends. So should I buy a double female sided extension and and connect the 3 pieces together?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-rotary-m-m-g1-4-nickel.html
> Plus
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-12mm-f-f-g1-4-nickel.html
> Plus
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-fitting-nickel.html
> 
> Or, is it better to just buy 1 50mm extension so that it's less connections?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-50mm-m-f-g1-4-nickel.html
> Plus
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-fitting-nickel.html


u need M-F extender just like the one u linked but maybe shorter









http:////www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-50mm-m-f-g1-4-nickel.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-20mm-m-f-g1-4-nickel.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-8mm-m-f-g1-4-nickel.html


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> u need M-F extender just like the one u linked but maybe shorter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http:////www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-50mm-m-f-g1-4-nickel.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-20mm-m-f-g1-4-nickel.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-8mm-m-f-g1-4-nickel.html


Maybe my post was unclear. I already have the 90 degree fitting and the M-M extension. The question is, would I be ok buying a F-F extension to link the male end of the M-M extension to the 90 degree fiting? I am only concerned because it is more connections and a possible leak point.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> This is why I ask:
> 
> I bought a 90 degree fitting and a rottery extension. The extension has male connectors on both ends. So should I buy a double female sided extension and and connect the 3 pieces together?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-rotary-m-m-g1-4-nickel.html
> Plus
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-12mm-f-f-g1-4-nickel.html
> Plus
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-fitting-nickel.html
> 
> Or, is it better to just buy 1 50mm extension so that it's less connections?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-50mm-m-f-g1-4-nickel.html
> Plus
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-fitting-nickel.html


Both solutions work. So if you already have the M-M extender and the 90 angled adapter, I would just buy the F-F extender instead of the M-F extender.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Both solutions work. So if you already have the M-M extender and the 90 angled adapter, I would just buy the F-F extender instead of the M-F extender.


Thanks, that's what I was thinking, I was just worried about it being one more connection.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Thanks, that's what I was thinking, I was just worried about it being one more connection.


Why complicate things? Seems easier to just buy the 8mm extender for $3.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes you need to use the extender since the ports are recessed.


Thanks for the info. I found this extender at home which should work: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-extender-g1-4-nickel
I also have a question regarding the recessed port on the D5 Vario pump, do I need to use an extender before I use a plug it or can I just use the plug directly?


----------



## hemon

Hi,

for those who own the EK-Predator 240mm or 360mm: Does the pump makes at IDLE any noise (buzz sound or whatever)?

Thanks.


----------



## Thoth420

Hey all, long time builder with 0 experience doing custom loops. I also suffer from GAD which means my hands shake violently when nervous so doing one myself has always scared me...aside not knowing the finer points of the methodology.

I opted to have my cooling done by professionals with experience that will warranty their work. I also wanted it to be local so I could drive to pick it up when completed.

Decided to have Maingear do my loop and they have been great at helping me get exactly the look I want. They use EK for I think almost everything in the loop. Exceptions are tubing is PETG Primochill I believe and the reservoir is a BitsPower possibly.

The reason I mention all this is because they use Thermaltake Riing Fans (White LED). I hear the Vardar fans are quite popular and wondering if I should ask them to order those instead.

I know I paid alot more than a DIY and am ok with that...just want to make smart choices for each part of my loop as they will order/use anything I request that is compatible that they don't already have on hand.

Build aesthetic is primary white with black secondary accents.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Thanks for the info. I found this extender at home which should work: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-extender-g1-4-nickel
> I also have a question regarding the recessed port on the D5 Vario pump, do I need to use an extender before I use a plug it or can I just use the plug directly?


If the plug is this one :



Then no, it will fit inside the recessed port.

If it's a plug from another brand or even our CSQ plug like this one :



Then yes, you will need to use the extender.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> If the plug is this one :
> 
> 
> 
> Then no, it will fit inside the recessed port.
> 
> If it's a plug from another brand or even our CSQ plug like this one :
> 
> 
> 
> Then yes, you will need to use the extender.


Thanks for the swift reply +rep. That's the plug I have so it should work even though I have an extra extender. I'm sure it will come in handy on day:thumb:


----------



## ratzofftoya

I have the serial triple SLI bridge.

1.)Is it true that parallel will get me better temps? Are there any drawbacks to parallel?

2.)Please see the picture below. This is from the instructions, annotated by me. It seems that "A" is labeled an outlet and "B" is an inlet. Can I reverse this, so that "B" is the outlet and "A" is the inlet?


----------



## Adom Doledas

The structure is symmetrical so yes, you can swap A and B, it might just interfere with your PSU if you had a smaller case because the actual bridge's port locations aren't symmetrical.


----------



## emsj86

For temps wise I don't think either one really give you more or less. At least enough to have it factor in which one you buy


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Hey all, long time builder with 0 experience doing custom loops. I also suffer from GAD which means my hands shake violently when nervous so doing one myself has always scared me...aside not knowing the finer points of the methodology.
> 
> I opted to have my cooling done by professionals with experience that will warranty their work. I also wanted it to be local so I could drive to pick it up when completed.
> 
> Decided to have Maingear do my loop and they have been great at helping me get exactly the look I want. They use EK for I think almost everything in the loop. Exceptions are tubing is PETG Primochill I believe and the reservoir is a BitsPower possibly.
> 
> The reason I mention all this is because they use Thermaltake Riing Fans (White LED). I hear the Vardar fans are quite popular and wondering if I should ask them to order those instead.
> 
> I know I paid alot more than a DIY and am ok with that...just want to make smart choices for each part of my loop as they will order/use anything I request that is compatible that they don't already have on hand.
> 
> Build aesthetic is primary white with black secondary accents.


TT Riings fans aren't PWM, while Vardars are, so I'd say that's a good reason alone. They are also optimized for our radiators, so if you are using EK rads, I'd highly recommend the Vardars to go with them. They may not be as flashy, but much better as a long term performance and silence orientated product.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> TT Riings fans aren't PWM, while Vardars are, so I'd say that's a good reason alone. They are also optimized for our radiators, so if you are using EK rads, I'd highly recommend the Vardars to go with them. They may not be as flashy, but much better as a long term performance and silence orientated product.


Thanks I will see if I can get my hands on some if it isn't too late.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Does ekwb plan release their predator in single form 120/140? Or the 240 kit with a thermosphere block instead of a MX one ?
Love to do an EK AIO GPU set up .
Got 240 rad space in the bottom of a TJ07 and a 960 ssc 4GB that needs to be pushed harder, quiter and cooler


----------



## iBruce

This is about feeding the EK CE and XE rads soft tubing from a CaseLabs S8/S8S chassis front. I only had 25mm to work with front of the CE 280mm radiator when moving both ports to the chassis front direction in the CaseLabs, so I had to go with these Bitspower 90 short rotaries to feed soft tubing from that space restricted area front of CE 280 rad before hitting the inside chassis wall.

The CE extensions off the rad are 5mm so then I'm left with only 20mm of clearance before hitting the interior chassis front. These Bitspower 90s are 18mm, then the Monsoon 7/16x5/8 fittings add 2mm to the radius, so it's 5mm + 18mm + 2mm = 25mm an ideal fit, and I can hide the two soft tubes feeding the rad FRONT of the CE rad in the S8S, another building miracle.

One small hiccup with workaround is the Monsoon fittings will not thread-to-seal inside the Bitspower 90 short rotary, so had to add an EK nickel 8mm extender in order so supply enough threads to the Monsoon fitting, not a big deal now planning to paint or plasti the EK extender to white.

You can hide the soft tubing feeds to and from a front FlexBay mounted EK CE 280 rad or EK XE 240 rad in a CaseLabs S8/S8S build, hurray.









In this pic it looks like there's plenty of room, but the mm ruler does not show the 10mm air gap in the CL interior frame and chassis ventilated front panel, which you have to subtract from available area, there's really only 25mm of space when the CE is mounted to work with for all fittings and tubing.

Hope this helps some enthusiasts hide some tubing runs and adds more available space for cabling, and pumps and Aquaeros and other goodies, when using CE and XE rads in the FlexBay.









I would have loved to used an EK part, but no such part currently exists, so when you're in a tight spot like I was, haha, you have to go with what works.

Water parts for my build are still 95% EK, for very good reason.









http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g-1-4-90-degree-ig-1-4-adapter-deluxe-white.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4388_zpswkhh71vu.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4389_zpsnrqsjgpo.jpg.html


----------



## iBruce

All three of my EK rads exterior finish is not holding up very well.

How about EK offers a nice powdercoating for all its rads at a premium price?

If you matched all three CaseLabs powdercoats that would be great place to start.









Can I get my XE 360 in gunmetal or white?









...send boxes of bare rads to CaseLabs, let them work their amazing powdercoat magic and sell EK rads through their store as a drop-in-the-shipping box addition.

.


----------



## Anateus

Yeah, EK rads finish certainly isn't premium. Paint chips so easily.

BTW. EK - are you going to introduce gaskets for your radiators? Only XSPC does it so far, and Vardar's really could use some vibration dampening.

Also, are EK rad mounted using screws with 3-32 threads? Or are they m3/m4?
Can I use m3 with 3-32 threaded rads and vice versa?


----------



## kot0005




----------



## Willius

Today i disassembled my loop, en found out that my GPU Plexi block looked very cloudy, but my CPU block isn't. Both are EK of course. Used in combination with EK premixed UV green and Primochill Soft tubing. I'll make some phone pictures when I get home from work. What do you guys think?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Yeah, EK rads finish certainly isn't premium. Paint chips so easily.
> 
> BTW. EK - are you going to introduce gaskets for your radiators? Only XSPC does it so far, and Vardar's really could use some vibration dampening.
> 
> Also, are EK rad mounted using screws with 3-32 threads? Or are they m3/m4?
> Can I use m3 with 3-32 threaded rads and vice versa?


UNC 6/32 is the thread I think your meant, because 3/32 is waaaay too small.
and no you can NOT use M3 screws/bolts with the 6/32 threads on EK rads.

If you need more screws or a different length to suit your mounting needs, you will need to source 6/32 of suitable length.


----------



## iBruce

Is there any more information on the recalled fans?

I keep checking the EK store and PPCS to see if they are listed, nothing so far.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> UNC 6/32 is the thread I think your meant, because 3/32 is waaaay too small.
> and no you can NOT use M3 screws/bolts with the 6/32 threads on EK rads.
> 
> If you need more screws or a different length to suit your mounting needs, you will need to source 6/32 of suitable length.


You're right, I was talking about 6/32. Shame. Its really hard to find longer 6/32 screws here. Its hard to find 6/32 screws at all.


----------



## midnytwarrior

Hi guys!

Need your help.

I just disassembled my loop for annual cleaning and I found some residies/stains in all of my three GPU water blocks. I want to open up the blocks to clean them up, but two of the blocks have some signs of leakage(only coolant traces, no dripping). So now I'm not sure if I'll open it up and clean it or leave it be. Because I had just read in the EK support page that the blocks can be opened and cleaned without losing the warranty, however, the EK leak free guarantee would be lost, making me hesitate to open the blocks.

Here are some pics:

*Block 1*:




*Block 2:*




Any advice would be highly appreciated. Thanks


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Those leakage traces are not uncommon, I've had similar ones in XSPC waterblocks without any consequences. You should be fine opening and re-sealing them. Make sure the rubber ring is clean and has nothing stuck to it, and tighten the screws firmly in cross-pattern, and leak-test of course. Sooner or later you'll have to open them up anyway, if continue using them.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnytwarrior*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> Need your help.
> 
> I just disassembled my loop for annual cleaning and I found some residies/stains in all of my three GPU water blocks. I want to open up the blocks to clean them up, but two of the blocks have some signs of leakage(only coolant traces, no dripping). So now I'm not sure if I'll open it up and clean it or leave it be. Because I had just read in the EK support page that the blocks can be opened and cleaned without losing the warranty, however, the EK leak free guarantee would be lost, making me hesitate to open the blocks.
> 
> Here are some pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Block 1*:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Block 2:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any advice would be highly appreciated. Thanks


I personnaly never seen these kind of mini-leakage so it's hard for me to say that it's fine.

Do you see any sign of water dripping on the GPU PCB near those spots?


----------



## derickwm

Got fittings?


----------



## midnytwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Those leakage traces are not uncommon, I've had similar ones in XSPC waterblocks without any consequences. You should be fine opening and re-sealing them. Make sure the rubber ring is clean and has nothing stuck to it, and tighten the screws firmly in cross-pattern, and leak-test of course. Sooner or later you'll have to open them up anyway, if continue using them.


Well, I guess I have no other choice. I cannot depend on Blitz part 2. Indeed I have to do this manually.
Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I personnaly never seen these kind of mini-leakage so it's hard for me to say that it's fine.
> 
> Do you see any sign of water dripping on the GPU PCB near those spots?


No other drippings. Just the trace of coolant. Didn't even went past the edge.
Anyway, I have to open them up to remove the stains. And hope that it seals good after I put them back in.

Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Got fittings?










I wanna see all your fittings laid out. Cause I know you got a metric crapton^2 of fittings B.









~Ceadder


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanna see all your fittings laid out. Cause I know you got a metric crapton^2 of fittings B.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The proper phrase usage here is metric butt ton^10. Ceadder not bringing his A-Game this morning.









Now where is that new EK System Controller? What's it called Ascension?

And everyone knows no fittings pic is complete without Five Flavors of Fresh Fudge in the background.

How did this story happen?

There just happens to be a fudge shoppe, just a few miles north of PPCS, so the gf made me bring home 15 slices of this stuff after I picked up my fittings, most of it is still in the freezer, too sweet for me but females love this stuff, it works like catnip.


----------



## Dagamus NM

When I think of the amount spent on fittings in the past couple of years I get sad. Couple pay my mortgage for a couple months or go on a real vacation. Instead I spend money to hoard fittings.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Got fittings?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanna see all your fittings laid out. Cause I know you got a metric crapton^2 of fittings B.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I'll snap some shots when I get home







they aren't quite as epic, due to all the rigs being built.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanna see all your fittings laid out. Cause I know you got a metric crapton^2 of fittings B.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The proper phrase usage here is metric butt ton^10. Ceadder not bringing his A-Game this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now where is that new EK System Controller? What's it called Ascension?
> 
> And everyone knows no fittings pic is complete without Five Flavors of Fresh Fudge in the background.
> 
> How did this story happen?
> 
> There just happens to be a fudge shoppe, just a few miles north of PPCS, so the gf made me bring home 15 slices of this stuff after I picked up my fittings, most of it is still in the freezer, too sweet for me but females love this stuff, it works like catnip.
Click to expand...

Soon™


----------



## Ceadderman

Like catnip to cats...









~Ceadder


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> GO HABS GO! Update
> 
> build is done,
> we will give it to the kid on November 21
> i will post some pics and video of him receiving the computer ,
> 
> again i want to say a BIG Thanks you to everyone who help me on this one , believe me the Children will LOVE IT! a lot, im sure
> and want to say Thanks to Parvum System for the very great case, EK for water cooling stuff, Darkside and Moddingstylez for all modding goodies and led
> and for sure everyone who sent me hardware like Kennah fo APU, Nass for Motherboard, Bartacus for Power supply, Stéphane Omer Landry for the GPU and member of overcloqc.com, hope i dont forgot someone
> 
> Thanks a lot to everyone


Do you like hockey? Lol, seriously I am old enough to remember The Habs winning five straight cups. Come to think of it the last team from Canada to win the Stanley Cup was Montreal in what? 1993?


----------



## iBruce

The new EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial TOP arrives for sale at PPCS. Would be nice to purchase without the D5 pumps to bring the cost way down for those already owning two or more D5s, would also be very nice to see the dual pump top section offered in solid plexi.

EK is producing so many new outstanding skus, I can't afford to buy them all.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...-Serial_front_1200_w_600_zpspagbzkjp.jpg.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial-incl-2x-pump.html#!prettyPhoto

Will we ever get an XRES REVO in solid plexi?

This Dual Serial would be ideal mounted in any CaseLabs pedestal, maybe next year.

Did manage to pick up the REVO pump top in plexi for $43, its so beautiful, thanks EK.







Wait till you see the crazy place I'm mounting it, going to look so amazing.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4328_zpsswo0cnod.jpg.html


----------



## Asus11

will Z87 impact vi EK full cover motherboard block fit on Z170 impact viii


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> will Z87 impact vi EK full cover motherboard block fit on Z170 impact viii


Almost definitely not. Boards can seem similar but it only takes very small changes to render blocks incompatible. Quit often even revisions to the same board/card make it impossible.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Do you like hockey? Lol, seriously I am old enough to remember The Habs winning five straight cups. Come to think of it the last team from Canada to win the Stanley Cup was Montreal in what? 1993?


Lol yes I like hockey
I'm a old fart and remember the five in a row
But was really young when it's happen

I think you're right , grabs is the last Canadian team to win the Cup, I will check tonight


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Almost definitely not. Boards can seem similar but it only takes very small changes to render blocks incompatible. Quit often even revisions to the same board/card make it impossible.


I will wait for confirmation from an EK rep to be 100% sure

as the z87 block was also made to fit the z97 so who knows.. it looks like the exact same design.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> will Z87 impact vi EK full cover motherboard block fit on Z170 impact viii


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> will Z87 impact vi EK full cover motherboard block fit on Z170 impact viii
> 
> 
> 
> Almost definitely not. Boards can seem similar but it only takes very small changes to render blocks incompatible. Quit often even revisions to the same board/card make it impossible.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Almost definitely not. Boards can seem similar but it only takes very small changes to render blocks incompatible. Quit often even revisions to the same board/card make it impossible.
> 
> 
> 
> I will wait for confirmation from an EK rep to be 100% sure
> 
> as the z87 block was also made to fit the z97 so who knows.. it looks like the exact same design.
Click to expand...

Hi guys, Jakusonfire is correct, unfortunately. We were hoping it would fit but upon receiving our sample have confirmed that we will need to make a new block. Should have it by the end of the year.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hi guys, Jakusonfire is correct, unfortunately. We were hoping it would fit but upon receiving our sample have confirmed that we will need to make a new block. _Should_ have it by the end of the year.


Since we are on the subject, when will the Asus M8E full coverage block become available?









Plan on ordering the Maximus VIII Extreme next week.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hi guys, Jakusonfire is correct, unfortunately. We were hoping it would fit but upon receiving our sample have confirmed that we will need to make a new block. _Should_ have it by the end of the year.
> 
> 
> 
> Since we are on the subject, when will the Asus M8E full coverage block become available?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plan on ordering the Maximus VIII Extreme next week.
Click to expand...

For now, all I can say is probably around the same time frame.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> For now, all I can say is probably around the same time frame.


Will make a nice Christmas present for under the tree.


----------



## IT Diva

@derickwm . . . . While you're talking about board blocks to come out . . .

Any plans to release any for the Asus Signature series boards, like the Deluxe or Premium?

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> @derickwm . . . . While you're talking about board blocks to come out . . .
> 
> Any plans to release any for the Asus Signature series boards, like the Deluxe or Premium?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Darlene


I don't believe so at this time.


----------



## iBruce

I guess asking about the 140mm replacement fans won't make them arrive any sooner, right?









I tested both my Vardar 140 ERs with an Aquaero XT, they both had the faulty bearings, returned them to PPCS for store credit.

Gee, how long ago was that, August? So we've been waiting 3months for the replacements?

(isn't that CL S8 test bench just gorgeous in gunmetal)











Vardar F3-140 (2000rpm) Extended Range PWM


----------



## InfoSeeker

The EK-RES X4 250 product page has the following picture:


I see the wire mounting frame in the instructions, but not the black stand part.
Is the black stand included in the delivery? The description says "mounting mechanism" is included, but I am not sure what that includes.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The EK-RES X4 250 product page has the following picture:
> 
> 
> I see the wire mounting frame in the instructions, but not the black stand part.
> Is the black stand included in the delivery? The description says "mounting mechanism" is included, but I am not sure what that includes.


You get two stands/mounts in the box both nickel plated wire, but you do not get the large black anodized stand in that photograph. Believe EK may sell the black stand separately in the future.

These both arrive in the box (pic below).


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> You get two stands/mounts in the box both nickel plated wire, but you do not get the large black anodized stand in that photograph. Believe EK may sell the black stand separately in the future.
> 
> These both arrive in the box (pic below).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Hidden


Thank you for reply. I thought that was the case, but I love to dream


----------



## iBruce

Hoping EK will add smaller and larger size glass tubes and white top and bottom pieces to the X4 reservoir series next year.

.


----------



## jvillaveces

I decided to build a new HTPC. I have already ordered the case (https://www.steigerdynamics.com/products-leet-chassis-engineering), and I have selected an Asus M8 Gene with a 6700k, 16 GB RAM, a 980 Ti SC, and an Essence STX II 7.1. Storage would be remote, on a NAS.

Steiger Dynamics sell an AIO-type cooling kit based on Swiftech gear, but I would rather use EK parts. The case looks really small, so I don't know whether I will be able to fit in a separate pump and res.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I will be putting a nickel monoblock on the mobo/CPU, and a nickel/plexi FC block on the GPU. Plan A will be to get an SE240 and an SE 120 for rads, a DDC pump and a small res. It looks like I may be able to fit the pump/res in the corner where the SDD cage goes, if I get rid of the cage. Any thoughts on pump and res selection, assuming I can fit them in there? Plan B, of course, is to just get a Predator 240 and gut it. Either way, I will try to make this my first hard tubing build.


----------



## andrej124

Hi guys!

Just to let you know, *EK-Vardar 140*mm fans are back in stock!









https://shop.ekwb.com/radiators-fans/fans/140mm


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> Just to let you know, *EK-Vardar 140*mm fans are back in stock!


Yes...! Now need my local retailer to stock up on them....


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> Just to let you know, *EK-Vardar 140*mm fans are back in stock!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/radiators-fans/fans/140mm

































Ordering tomorrow from PPCS, the new and improved 140mm Vardar F3 2000rpm ERs should be in my test bed by Monday afternoon, I'll let the club know how it all works out.

Also picking up the new silver-nickel and orange EK holographic badges. (the silver looks holographic)

Will take some pics with EK plexi and acetal parts to give everyone an aesthetic view .









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/ek-badges_nickel_2_800_zpsckch0pe9.png.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/ek-badges_orange_2_800_zpssvscyg5c.png.html


----------



## akira749

This is new too!









EK-AF X-Splitter


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> This is new too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK-AF X-Splitter


Now those look pretty damn cool.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> This is new too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK-AF X-Splitter


Not sure I like the boxy look, need to see them in a loop. I do like the badge on them though.


----------



## Thoth420

Question: would a 150mL Res be enough for a single fury x and an i7 6700k. Not planning for any insane OCs just performance gain speeds(as needed for gaming)?

Below is a very crude sketch and it was explained to me that the cooling would function like this: "One tube comes out of the pump/res and goes up and then splits into a T and goes to both the CPU and GPU. After that it will leave the CPU and GPU and go into it's own radiators and then back into the Res to be split again."

Sounds exotic...expert opinions and criticism welcome.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Question: would a 150mL Res be enough for a single fury x and an i7 6700k. Not planning for any insane OCs just performance gain speeds(as needed for gaming)?
> 
> Below is a very crude sketch and it was explained to me that the cooling would function like this: "One tube comes out of the pump/res and goes up and then splits into a T and goes to both the CPU and GPU. After that it will leave the CPU and GPU and go into it's own radiators and then back into the Res to be split again."
> 
> Sounds exotic...expert opinions and criticism welcome.


Reservoir size makes next to no difference. Big reservoirs are nice though since you don't need to cycle the pump a whole lot when you're putting fluid in the system. Your diagram is confusing btw.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> Pretty much anything practical in size will have little/no difference.


Source: http://www.overclock.net/t/963477/reservoir-size/0_20#post_12716502


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Question: would a 150mL Res be enough for a single fury x and an i7 6700k. Not planning for any insane OCs just performance gain speeds(as needed for gaming)?
> 
> Below is a very crude sketch and it was explained to me that the cooling would function like this: "One tube comes out of the pump/res and goes up and then splits into a T and goes to both the CPU and GPU. After that it will leave the CPU and GPU and go into it's own radiators and then back into the Res to be split again."
> 
> Sounds exotic...expert opinions and criticism welcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reservoir size makes next to no difference. Big reservoirs are nice though since you don't need to cycle the pump a whole lot when you're putting fluid in the system. Your diagram is confusing btw.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> Pretty much anything practical in size will have little/no difference.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Source: http://www.overclock.net/t/963477/reservoir-size/0_20#post_12716502
Click to expand...

There is also no performance gain running a parallel loop, imo it just clutters the loop more with tubing and fittings, unless you just want it for ascetics.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> There is also no performance gain running a parallel loop, imo it just clutters the loop more with tubing and fittings, unless you just want it for ascetics.


I didn't even read that part until now. No wonder his diagram made no sense to me.


----------



## Thoth420

I didn't make the sketch and yes it is very confusing. Thanks guys my main concern was the reservoir size. Cooling isn't being done by me as I don't possess the skillset, experience or free time.

The shop doing it doesn't do tube bending and instead opts to use more fittings. The work is guarenteed for 3 years and covers all hardware in the system. I would have prefered bending but they didn't charge extra for the fittings and I had color options.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> I didn't make the sketch and yes it is very confusing. Thanks guys my main concern was the reservoir size. Cooling isn't being done by me as I don't possess the skillset, knowledge base or free time.


Well if your paying for it just make sure they're not trying to pad the cost by using unnecessary fittings and tubing.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Well if your paying for it just make sure they're not trying to pad the cost by using unnecessary fittings and tubing.


I don't mind much and went in knowing regardless I was overpaying alot compared to DIY. Their pricing is pretty static and they got me a backplate, ordered black fittings and a few small aesthetic requests for no extra charge.

I'll post some pics when I get her.
Thanks again(everyone) for the assistance!


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Question: would a 150mL Res be enough for a single fury x and an i7 6700k. Not planning for any insane OCs just performance gain speeds(as needed for gaming)?
> 
> Below is a very crude sketch and it was explained to me that the cooling would function like this: "One tube comes out of the pump/res and goes up and then splits into a T and goes to both the CPU and GPU. After that it will leave the CPU and GPU and go into it's own radiators and then back into the Res to be split again."
> 
> Sounds exotic...expert opinions and criticism welcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The size of your reservoir won't make any difference to the cooling capacity of your loop. Just put in whatever looks nice and works well with your chosen tubing runs.

Your sketch does have a major problem: the flow is reversed! In general, the order of components in the loop doesn't affect the temperatures, so you can string them together any way you want. BUT you must always have the res and pump together (i.e. no other components between them), and the flow must always be res -> pump, to ensure the pump will never run dry. The other "rule" here (although you might get away with breaking it in some cases) is to have the res outlet higher than the pump inlet, for the same reason; your plan is already set up this way.

Also, in your sketch there is a tube between the GPU and the middle of the reservoir whose purpose isn't too clear. This might be a representation of your idea of having parallel flow at the CPU/GPU, That may well work, but with modern components it is probably unnecessary, and it does make the loop more complicated. I try to live by the KISS principle when I can, especially when starting a new learning curve like watercooling. I would suggest getting rid of that parallel-flow segment, and just building an all-serial loop, connecting all your components one after the other in whatever order you want, with a few criteria in mind:
- shorter tube runs are better than longer ones
- straighter tube runs are better than convoluted
- loops look best when tubing runs don't cross each other

It's your loop in your system, build it any way you like and have fun! Just remember to feed the pump directly from the res.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> Just to let you know, *EK-Vardar 140*mm fans are back in stock!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/radiators-fans/fans/140mm


Contacted PPCS, they said, they had not been given the ok to order the new 140mm Vardar replacement fans and add to stock.

Please let them order EK.







Please my build needs revitalization.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...3-140ER_front2_800poster_zpszjs2clua.jpg.html


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> Just to let you know, *EK-Vardar 140*mm fans are back in stock!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/radiators-fans/fans/140mm
> 
> 
> 
> Contacted PPCS, they said, they had not been given the ok to order the new 140mm Vardar replacement fans and add to stock.
> 
> Please let them order EK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please my build needs revitalization.
Click to expand...

Unless I'm unaware of something, maybe they just hadn't seen the most recent news announcement.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Unless I'm unaware of something, maybe they just hadn't seen the most recent news announcement.


I sent the announcement and webpages to them.

they are still unsure from last email if they can order.

"They [EK] have not told us yet when they can ship the 140s" and I quote.









I'm doing an extreme EK 140mm fan CE 280 rad mod and need those two 140 ERs to move out of "store credit" so I can apply my science.








.


----------



## iBruce

This latest PPCS information has been fully approved by sketchycat


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Unless I'm unaware of something, maybe they just hadn't seen the most recent news announcement.
> 
> 
> 
> I sent the announcement and webpages to them.
> 
> they are still unsure from last email if they can order.
> 
> "They [EK] have not told us yet when they can ship the 140s" and I quote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm doing an extreme EK 140mm fan CE 280 rad mod and need those two 140 ERs to move out of "store credit" so I can apply my science.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Let me look into this... there's plenty of stock on our end so I'm not sure what's going on.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Let me look into this... there's plenty of stock on our end so I'm not sure what's going on.


Maybe PPCS isn't sure how to work with the new fans since it was a recall and they have to reship all those fans?

I dunno.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Would it be recommended to use a rotary extender with a ball valve handle fitting? I'm planning to have this connected to the EK-XRES 140 DDC.

Your input would be much appreciated.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Unless I'm unaware of something, maybe they just hadn't seen the most recent news announcement.
> 
> 
> 
> I sent the announcement and webpages to them.
> 
> they are still unsure from last email if they can order.
> 
> "They [EK] have not told us yet when they can ship the 140s" and I quote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm doing an extreme EK 140mm fan CE 280 rad mod and need those two 140 ERs to move out of "store credit" so I can apply my science.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Let me look into this... there's plenty of stock on our end so I'm not sure what's going on.
Click to expand...

Might be they just want to take a wait & see about how the user feedback from guys who bought from EK directly turns out . . .

Before restocking

Wouldn't blame them a bit for being on the wary side.

D.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ordering tomorrow from PPCS, the new and improved 140mm Vardar F3 2000rpm ERs should be in my test bed by Monday afternoon, I'll let the club know how it all works out.
> 
> Also picking up the new silver-nickel and orange EK holographic badges. (the silver looks holographic)
> 
> Will take some pics with EK plexi and acetal parts to give everyone an aesthetic view .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/ek-badges_nickel_2_800_zpsckch0pe9.png.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/ek-badges_orange_2_800_zpssvscyg5c.png.html


Where can one order some of those orange ones? I assume wherever a factory emblem is these can be added?

Thanks :thumb

Edit: found some on their website after fishing around.


----------



## akira749

EK releases new DBAY D5 MX reservoirs and reservoir / pump combos!


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases new DBAY D5 MX reservoirs and reservoir / pump combos!


Dual D5 bay in the works?


----------



## MadHatter5045

Just got my DHL tracking number from EK for my replacement 140mm Vardars! I'll have a video going up on YouTube about these early December, I've been sitting on the video so I could talk about EK's customer service and the excellent way that they handled the recall on these fans.


----------



## akira749

Yesterday we released the X-Splitters and today we have the T-Splitters!









EK-AF T-Splitter


----------



## funfordcobra

How is the x99 Asus deluxe monoblocks coming along?


----------



## iBruce

I should have the orange and silver badges next Monday, will take some photos orange and black EK acetal silver and EK plexi every combination so the club can get an idea what they look like on EK parts.

Not certain about the 140mm fans yet, let me mail the Good Duke of PPCS and see, like Darlene suggested, since this was a recall the normal ordering or reordering method may not apply.

Green tea this morning, new healthy foods. tonight I'm looking forward to a nice glass of powdered chlorophyll mixed with water. yumm.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Dual D5 bay in the works?


From the best of my knowledge, we never had a Dual D5 Bay Res so I would be surprised that we will have one.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> How is the x99 Asus deluxe monoblocks coming along?


Still in the work


----------



## iBruce

Ok, found out what the hiccup was with PPCS and the new 140 Vardars, they were reading the EK website in Slovensko, so when they clicked on the 140mm title page announcement, that link took them to only 120mm fans, very weird.

So I'm like "Duke change your language preference on the homepage to English and the link will take you to the 140mm Vardars."

So Duke is like, "OK, that works."


















So anyhoo, PPCS has all the new 140mm Vardars on order, still not sure if they will be arriving next Monday, the 23rd or the following Monday, the 30th.

Go Duke.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Ok, found out what the hiccup was with PPCS and the new 140 Vardars, they were reading the EK website in Slovensko, so when they clicked on the 140mm title page announcement, that link took them to only 120mm fans, very weird.
> 
> So I'm like "Duke change your language preference on the homepage to English and the link will take you to the 140mm Vardars."
> 
> So Duke is like, "OK, that works."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So anyhoo, PPCS has all the new 140mm Vardars on order, still not sure if they will be arriving next Monday, the 23rd or the following Monday, the 30th.
> 
> Go Duke.


I just emailed them about my RMA. I hope they grant the RMA's first, and then start selling them on the website.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I just emailed them about my RMA. I hope they grant the RMA's first, and then start selling them on the website.


I received email from them saying it would be December 2nd before the replacement 140mm Vardar F2 and F3 ERs are available to order, they said they were sorry for the wait, but they could not get the 140mm fans onto the EK order that will arrive this coming Monday.

The new badges will be available to order this Monday (in two days), the following week for the 140mm fans, sorry to be the bearer of bad news guys, but at least they will get here before Christmas.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I received email from them saying it would be December 2nd before the replacement 140mm Vardar F2 and F3 ERs are available to order, they said they were sorry for the wait, but they could not get the 140mm fans onto the EK order that will arrive this coming Monday.
> 
> The new badges will be available to order this Monday (in two days), the following week for the 140mm fans, sorry to be the bearer of bad news guys, but at least they will get here before Christmas.


Right, but I hope they address the RMA's before they start selling them to newer customers: meaning they should reserve the RMA's before they sell them.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Right, but I hope they address the RMA's before they start selling them to newer customers: meaning they should reserve the RMA's before they sell them.


Agree completely, that may be why they cannot receive sufficient stock until December 2nd from EK since PPCS has probably already counted how many units the need to satisfy all the RMAs, that may be a very large quantity of each sku.

And you are right they may satisfy the RMAs first before making the fans available to new buyers, but that's only speculation.









I will be happy to get my two all black F3 140 ERs and get that fan/rad mod out of the way.


----------



## kizwan

EK featured in Intel commercial.







Why don't they bleed the loop before shooting the commercial? (assuming what I saw was air bubbles)


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> EK featured in Intel commercial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why don't they bleed the loop before shooting the commercial? (assuming what I saw was air bubbles)


I think they are using mayhems aurora fluid, at least thats what it looked like to me


----------



## iBruce

Yep, it's Mayhem's Aurora alright, like a mint green? Hard to tell with the lighting.

BS Mods created that rig for Intel. CaseLabs SM8 with reverse motherboard layout and custom front panel and custom automotive finish. EK X3 res, most likely ALL EK water parts.









http://unlocked.newegg.com/custom-pc-intel-magneto-black/

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...y-custom-liquid-cooled-7_zpsfutpj3wr.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...y-custom-liquid-cooled-3_zpsurvamtv4.jpg.html


----------



## funfordcobra

I just pulled all my stuff from my cosmos 2 and put it in a caselabs s8.

I took the board, gpus, cpu, and cpu block all out in one big chunk but ever since I put everything in the s8 and it is laying horizontal all my temps have gone up.

I've bled, re plumbed tubes, drained, and refilled about 4 times now. I've pulled the cpu block and reapplied paste and reseated twice. My idle temps are 40c and gaming 65c. Before it was 30c idle and 50c gaming. I've even had to drop my overclock from 4.5ghz to 4.2ghz and drop my voltage from 1.32v to 1.25v and still idling hot.

With my old 4.5 overclock I get BSOD WHEA_Uncorrect error (I'm thinking from 90c temps) and also watchdof timout. Dropping to 4.3 solved all the bsod but the CPU is still running hot. Any ideas?

Doesn't make sense to me since the cpu and blocks weren't disturbed in the swap.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I just pulled all my stuff from my cosmos 2 and put it in a caselabs s8.
> 
> I took the board, gpus, cpu, and cpu block all out in one big chunk but ever since I put everything in the s8 and it is laying horizontal all my temps have gone up.
> 
> I've bled, re plumbed tubes, drained, and refilled about 4 times now. I've pulled the cpu block and reapplied paste and reseated twice. My idle temps are 40c and gaming 65c. Before it was 30c idle and 50c gaming. I've even had to drop my overclock from 4.5ghz to 4.2ghz and drop my voltage from 1.32v to 1.25v and still idling hot.
> 
> With my old 4.5 overclock I get BSOD WHEA_Uncorrect error (I'm thinking from 90c temps) and also watchdof timout. Dropping to 4.3 solved all the bsod but the CPU is still running hot. Any ideas?
> 
> Doesn't make sense to me since the cpu and blocks weren't disturbed in the swap.


WHEA error likely your memory overclock is unstable. Try increase or decrease VCCSA voltage.


----------



## funfordcobra

Thanks but my main concern is why my temps jumped 10c with a lower ambient temp with just a case swap..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> EK featured in Intel commercial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why don't they bleed the loop before shooting the commercial? (assuming what I saw was air bubbles)


Yup, definitely need to bleed. But had they done so it might not have shown up as well.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## StillClock1

Does anyone know where I could find an EK Waterblock for an R9 295x2? Are they no longer in production?


----------



## jvillaveces

@akira749 Does the EK-FB ASUS M8G Monoblock - Nickel
include LED mounting holes? Some of the pictures on the EK site seem to suggest so, but the description doesn't mention anything, I just ordered one from PPCS, and if it can mount LEDs I would like to know so I can order them. Thanks!


----------



## funfordcobra

Well.. I changed from serial to parallel gpu flow hoping it would improve flow but it didn't. In fact there wasn't enough pressure to even supply the 2nd gpu as it shot right up to 70c. In a last ditch effort, I swapped my in and out hoses on my pump and now my temps are better than ever even going against the ek recommended CPU block flow.

Went from 45c idle to 29c idle and 90c load to 61c load..I guess whatever works.


----------



## andrej124

EK-FB GA Z170X Monoblock is here!











Made for the following motherboards:

GA-Z170X-UD5 TH
GA-Z170X-Gaming 7
GA-Z170X-Gaming 5


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> EK-FB GA Z170X Monoblock is here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made for the following motherboards:
> 
> GA-Z170X-UD5 TH
> GA-Z170X-Gaming 7
> GA-Z170X-Gaming 5


Will it also fit the GA-Z170X-Gaming GT?

That would be the next level up from the Gaming-7, but below the G1

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5515#ov

Was thinking of using the GT in place of the Asus Z170 Deluxe, but can't find a lot about it, and it looks like you guys have no plans for a monoblock for the Z170 Deluxe.

Darlene


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> @akira749 Does the EK-FB ASUS M8G Monoblock - Nickel
> include LED mounting holes? Some of the pictures on the EK site seem to suggest so, but the description doesn't mention anything, I just ordered one from PPCS, and if it can mount LEDs I would like to know so I can order them. Thanks!


No LED's holes on this one sorry.


----------



## akira749

EK releases monoblock for GIGABYTE Z170X motherboards


----------



## funfordcobra

At what point do you need to double down on pumps? I was having flow problems with one d5 2gpu and CPU flow with3 240 rads and was wondering if it was because I had too many blocks and rads hooked up to my loop.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> At what point do you need to double down on pumps? I was having flow problems with one d5 2gpu and CPU flow with3 240 rads and was wondering if it was because I had too many blocks and rads hooked up to my loop.


What blocks? Are they restrictive ones?


----------



## funfordcobra

Well they are just the normal titanx blocks with supremacy CPU and 3 rads. Not sure how much more restrictive these are than other gpu blocks. They should be about the same.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Well they are just the normal titanx blocks with supremacy CPU and 3 rads. Not sure how much more restrictive these are than other gpu blocks. They should be about the same.


EK rads and GPU blocks?


----------



## funfordcobra

All ek everything.. I had flow set to hit my 3 rads then CPU then gpus. There wasn't enough pressure to even supply my 3rd gpu properly. I switched to feed the gpus, then CPU, then rads back to res and I got decent flow again. I just didn't think having it in the first order I mentioned would be an issue.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Any chance of getting MSI X99 monoblocks?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> All ek everything.. I had flow set to hit my 3 rads then CPU then gpus. There wasn't enough pressure to even supply my 3rd gpu properly. I switched to feed the gpus, then CPU, then rads back to res and I got decent flow again. I just didn't think having it in the first order I mentioned would be an issue.


Are you doing serial or parallel on your gpus?


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> EK-FB GA Z170X Monoblock is here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made for the following motherboards:
> 
> GA-Z170X-UD5 TH
> GA-Z170X-Gaming 7
> GA-Z170X-Gaming 5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will it also fit the GA-Z170X-Gaming GT?
> 
> That would be the next level up from the Gaming-7, but below the G1
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5515#ov
> 
> Was thinking of using the GT in place of the Asus Z170 Deluxe, but can't find a lot about it, and it looks like you guys have no plans for a monoblock for the Z170 Deluxe.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

I like the board...

Especially the "Industry Leading Ultra Durable™ PCIe Metal Shielding" and the extra anchor point for GPU's...

Thanks for posting! I might buy one of these!









Mike


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> All ek everything.. I had flow set to hit my 3 rads then CPU then gpus. There wasn't enough pressure to even supply my 3rd gpu properly. I switched to feed the gpus, then CPU, then rads back to res and I got decent flow again. I just didn't think having it in the first order I mentioned would be an issue.


That doesn't make sense. You should get the same flow rate with either direction. I think the first time around you having the problem probably caused by air lock.


----------



## funfordcobra

Yea I thought so too and that's why I drained it 3 times. I use an air pump so airlock really doesn't play much. I thought it was just my flow path, it works great now though. Glad because I was about to buy a double pump for extra pressure.


----------



## iBruce

The new badges are now up for order at PPCS! Homepage, under New Products.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/

Also an update on the 140mm fans, PPCS says they are ordering this Wednesday, the shipment will arrive a week from today Monday November 30.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...3-140ER_front2_800poster_zpszjs2clua.jpg.html


----------



## iBruce

The silver are extremely reflective, adds a greater 3D effect, the orange looks amazing with black acetal.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4441_zpsep1urazl.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4445_zps4j1n22kj.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4449_zpsc7ia08ge.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4458_zpsyv9f9slu.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4460_zpsbw8jomy9.jpg.html


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Awesome pics iBruce, now I know what the black/orange will look like.

Pic thread:


----------



## Wright0Concern

Could someone here maybe give me some advice on whether or not EK are likely to release a full block for the Asus Strix R9 390 DCIIIOC(3).
I have the STRIX-R9390-DC3OC-8GD5-GAMING
I realise that this would be pure speculation but I'm trying to decide if its worth holding onto the card to water cool it in the future, or if I should just try and flog it and buy a card that is all ready supported with a full block?

Thanks Wright


----------



## Thoth420

It fits and visible fully with the chassis door on through the window! All possible due to the short length of the Fury X


----------



## iBruce

Two pics with the white acetal.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4463_zps8akfebzj.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4469_zpswh9mpnmk.jpg.html


----------



## Thoth420

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Two pics with the white acetal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4463_zps8akfebzj.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4469_zpswh9mpnmk.jpg.html






Wow that looks really awesome! Would go great with my build but too late now. Maybe when I do a revision next year at maintenance time.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wright0Concern*
> 
> Could someone here maybe give me some advice on whether or not EK are likely to release a full block for the Asus Strix R9 390 DCIIIOC(3).
> I have the STRIX-R9390-DC3OC-8GD5-GAMING
> I realise that this would be pure speculation but I'm trying to decide if its worth holding onto the card to water cool it in the future, or if I should just try and flog it and buy a card that is all ready supported with a full block?
> 
> Thanks Wright


We have no plans to make a block for this card sorry.


----------



## Wright0Concern

ok, thanks anyway.


----------



## akira749

EK releases new EK-RES X3 Lite reservoirs


----------



## Evil-Mobo




----------



## BugBash

Hi,
Im looking at updating to an MSI X99A Krait edition (Skt 2011-v3)
I presume everything I need to attach the Supremacy EVO comes in the box? (I kept all the leftover bits)
Cheers


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BugBash*
> 
> Hi,
> Im looking at updating to an MSI X99A Krait edition (Skt 2011-v3)
> I presume everything I need to attach the Supremacy EVO comes in the box? (I kept all the leftover bits)
> Cheers


Yep


----------



## iBruce

The Vardar 140 F2 and F3 ER replacement from recall fans just went up at PPCS for order, about 5pm EST.









http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-vardar-f3-140er-2000rpm-high-performance-liquid-cooling-fan.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-vardar-f2-140-1600rpm-high-performance-liquid-cooling-fan.html


----------



## funfordcobra

Both the 140ss I had worked and I used them on my test bench. Besides the clicking and whine they worked but weirdly they both went out in 90 days from purchase right after one another. Good thing you guys totally re did them.


----------



## Thoth420

Sorry for the crap quality image, will have high quality ones shortly.
Cooling done by Maingear.
I had tons of nit pick requests and this was a fully custom job not one of their preset configs. Great bunch of guys over there.


----------



## iBruce

Whoa! PPCS has all EK fittings 20% OFF tomorrow only as part of a Black Friday sale.

The water cooling Gods heard my prayers, the day after I decided to move from Monsoon to EK for fittings, what are the chances?

Ordering my EK ACF 12mmx16mm fittings (with nickel plating, I had some problems with silver plating) tomorrow.

Do I need to pitch a tent? Hank, don't make me pitch a tent.







































http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=ek+fitting

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...a-4803-b7c4-c42dd7eca07b_zpsx3b6tgwv.jpg.html


----------



## andrej124

More Black Friday deals guys!!









https://shop.ekwb.com/black-friday-deals?dir=desc&limit=36&order=name&p=1


----------



## smicha

I must buy the new dual top for 2xD5 asap! Why on earth EK don't sell it without pumps? EK please change it asap


----------



## darwin1859

Black painted thumb nuts for EK Supremacy EVO:


----------



## ilmio81

Greetings guys,
Forgive my ignorance, but considering the pump of EK-KIT L240, what is the maximum reservoir that can be supported without the pump goes on tilt, is damaged or is breaked ? .... a reservoir of similar characteristics:

Material: brass, plexi
Color: black nickel
Dimensions (H x D): 50 x 250mm
Drillings: 4 x 1/4 "at the bottom, 1 1/4" in the Top
Weight: 590g + 30g x 2 Holders
Test pressure: 2 Bar

should be fine ? thank you


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> I must buy the new dual top for 2xD5 asap! Why on earth EK don't sell it without pumps? EK please change it asap


Yeah, I would think they will, EK used to sell the previous two generations of dual-D5 tops without the pumps.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ilmio81*
> 
> Greetings guys,
> Forgive my ignorance, but considering the pump of EK-KIT L240, what is the maximum reservoir that can be supported without the pump goes on tilt, is damaged or is breaked ? .... a reservoir of similar characteristics:
> 
> Material: brass, plexi
> Color: black nickel
> Dimensions (H x D): 50 x 250mm
> Drillings: 4 x 1/4 "at the bottom, 1 1/4" in the Top
> Weight: 590g + 30g x 2 Holders
> Test pressure: 2 Bar
> 
> should be fine ? thank you


I see no problems there


----------



## ilmio81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I see no problems there


tonight I will drink to your health !!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ilmio81*
> 
> tonight I will drink to your health !!


----------



## ilmio81

last thing ..... I apologyse if it is OT:
according to you, what' s best pre-mix UV reactive? My idea is to have an electrict green..... like this 
thanks


----------



## iBruce

Just to clear up, on the PPCS Black Friday Sale page, they have this image saying 20% off ALL EK fittings.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...a-4b49-8e7e-3a6cfeb3f45b_zpsyipfqk2m.jpg.html

Then when you search EK fittings, individual listings say 10%off, 12%off, 15%off 17%off, 21%off and so on, so not certain if they are adding another discount on to the base 20%off or what exactly is happening. But it does look like MOST (maybe all) EK fittings do carry a discount.

I don't want to confuse anyone, just spreading the word on a good deal to save money.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/Untitled ek fittings_zpssq6gwfz5.png.html


----------



## snef

he was one of the happiest children on earth


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Good job snef, I'm happy to see this!


----------



## Willius

Awesome!


----------



## Radnad

That is incredibly awesome Snef!! You are a true patron to humanity!!


----------



## Thoth420

Faith in Humanity: Rising


----------



## snef

Thanks, his reaction when he saw the build was just epic, will post the video really soon

and I'm really surprise how people jump in the train , you don't know how much offer and hardware I received for this,
I refused all money in cash (if money accepted, sure i was able to do a full second build) amd I ship back some hardware because received to much things

want to Say Thanks a all for their support on this


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks, his reaction when he saw the build was just epic, will post the video really soon
> 
> and I'm really surprise how people jump in the train , you don't know how much offer and hardware I received for this,
> I refused all money in cash (if money accepted, sure i was able to do a full second build) amd I ship back some hardware because received to much things
> 
> want to Say Thanks a all for their support on this


It's wonderful to see such a lovely build go to someone so deserving of it. He really does look ecstatic.

No surprise here that people were pitching in though! You're a very talented individual and it was for a great cause, anyone would be more than happy to take part in such an endeavor if you ask me.

Be very proud of your work my friend!


----------



## andrej124

Cyber Monday deal for everyone who wants to spend big on liquid cooling!











https://shop.ekwb.com/


----------



## smicha

EK why don't you sell the new dual top for D5 without pomps?


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> EK why don't you sell the new dual top for D5 without pomps?


this !


----------



## Exothermic1982

Expanded my predator adding a GPU, radiator, and reservoir. Really wish I could turn that stupid red led on the predator off.


----------



## indyjones

Just trying to order a load of stuff and the 10% off does not seem to be working?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exothermic1982*
> 
> Expanded my predator adding a GPU, radiator, and reservoir. Really wish I could turn that stupid red led on the predator off.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's the best use of QDC's ascetically I've seen yet! Kudos, great looking loop!


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exothermic1982*
> 
> Expanded my predator adding a GPU, radiator, and reservoir. Really wish I could turn that stupid red led on the predator off.





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> That's the best use of QDC's ascetically I've seen yet! Kudos, great looking loop!


Gotta agree with that! I usually despise QDCs with all my heart, aesthetically that is, but they don't bother me here and that says a lot. Well done!


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

Can I join the club by writing EK on a piece of paper and stick that onto my CPU air cooler








Jokes


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exothermic1982*
> 
> Expanded my predator adding a GPU, radiator, and reservoir. Really wish I could turn that stupid red led on the predator off.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


it is easy just cut the wires going to it!


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

plorbem is finding the right wirers to cut, Good luck with that. You also may want to check out programs from EK to see if you can control that led


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> it is easy just cut the wires going to it!


Even easier, I used some of my wife's black nail polish on all of the LEDs I don't like. Then you can turn it back on by scraping the polish off, or just dim the light with a thin layer, or change the colour by changing the polish.
So many choices!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iwamotto Tetsuz*
> 
> plorbem is finding the right wirers to cut, Good luck with that. You also may want to check out programs from EK to see if you can control that led


Black tape FTW?


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Black tape FTW?


Destructive screwdrivers and man power on the LEDS FTW?








lol


----------



## Exothermic1982

I ended up just bypassing the pwm hub that comes with the predator and plugging the pump directly into a motherboard header. It seems to be running fine and I believe the header is providing enough power to it. I have the fans on a separate pwm hub.


----------



## jvillaveces

@akira749
A few months ago I got a Supremacy EVO for my black/gold build on an Asus z97-Deluxe board. I considered getting the gold plated version, but decided not to because I'm using pastel black coolant, and I couldn't find it with gold mounting hardware anywhere, only nickel-plated, so it would be pointless. I am setting up to replace my soft tubing with hardline, and want to take another crack at it. Is this mounting hardware available anywhere, with or without the gold block? I want it badly!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exothermic1982*
> 
> I ended up just bypassing the pwm hub that comes with the predator and plugging the pump directly into a motherboard header. It seems to be running fine and I believe the header is providing enough power to it. I have the fans on a separate pwm hub.


I don't think that's recommended. If that pump pulls more than 1 amp you might run into problems.


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iwamotto Tetsuz*
> 
> Can I join the club by writing EK on a piece of paper and stick that onto my CPU air cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jokes


Just a joke i'm not serious


----------



## Kimir

I gotta ask something that probably been asked a dozens of time, will the CPC Quick Disconnect that are included with the Predator will ever be sold separately?!
If not, may I know if you are using the NS4 or NS6 serie?

I really want to get rid of the Koolance QDC and try those, if I have to contact the manufacturer to get those, I will. But I'd like to know if I should wait for the shop and reseller to get them or I shouldn't because they won't be sold separately.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> @akira749
> A few months ago I got a Supremacy EVO for my black/gold build on an Asus z97-Deluxe board. I considered getting the gold plated version, but decided not to because I'm using pastel black coolant, and I couldn't find it with gold mounting hardware anywhere, only nickel-plated, so it would be pointless. I am setting up to replace my soft tubing with hardline, and want to take another crack at it. Is this mounting hardware available anywhere, with or without the gold block? I want it badly!


Sorry it's long gone now. The gold hardware was only on the Supremacy in the beginning but with the EVO Gold, we only had nickel hardware.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I gotta ask something that probably been asked a dozens of time, will the CPC Quick Disconnect that are included with the Predator will ever be sold separately?!
> If not, may I know if you are using the NS4 or NS6 serie?
> 
> I really want to get rid of the Koolance QDC and try those, if I have to contact the manufacturer to get those, I will. But I'd like to know if I should wait for the shop and reseller to get them or I shouldn't because they won't be sold separately.


Pretty sure they already said they won't be sold separately.

There are a few places that sell them, but they're pretty pricey, €20+ each.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Pretty sure they already said they won't be sold separately.
> 
> There are a few places that sell them, but they're pretty pricey, €20+ each.


Well then, can you send me the link you have seen them in EU, I'd rather spend 20€ to try that on than pay 15-17€ for koolance. I saw aquatuning had the same looking one but they are for bigger tube (1/2" - 12.7mm inner tube, I need the 3/8" - 10mm inner tube one, EK must be using those as well with the ZMT tube).


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Well then, can you send me the link you have seen them in EU, I'd rather spend 20€ to try that on than pay 15-17€ for koolance. I saw aquatuning had the same looking one but they are for bigger tube (1/2" - 12.7mm inner tube, I need the 3/8" - 10mm inner tube one, EK must be using those as well with the ZMT tube).


Male: http://www.compressedaironline.co.uk/catalogue/Online_Catalogue__Coupling_Insert___In_Line___Valved___Hose_Barb_2887.html
Female: http://www.compressedaironline.co.uk/catalogue/Online_Catalogue__Coupling_Body___In_Line_Valved___Hose_Barb_2885.html


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

1st time watercooling. EK 240L Kit and a lot of research on here and youtube made it simple!

Running what is in my signature.


----------



## Ultra Dude

Oh I think this is the right place for me









After my Eisberg experiment failed two times, I replaced everything with EK parts.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1581028/build-log-lian-li-q33-watercooled/0_20

I really like the style of the EK products, especially the boxes


----------



## InfoSeeker

The EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial installation manual shows the inlet/outlet orientation as per the clip below:

I understand it cannot be mounted on end, but is it allowable to rotate it so the inlet is to the top, and the outlet is to the side?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial installation manual shows the inlet/outlet orientation as per the clip below:
> 
> I understand it cannot be mounted on end, but is it allowable to rotate it so the inlet is to the top, and the outlet is to the side?


"This water pump & EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 can be used in *any mounting configuration (position) apart from being mounted upside down*!"


----------



## Origondoo

.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial installation manual shows the inlet/outlet orientation as per the clip below:
> 
> I understand it cannot be mounted on end, but is it allowable to rotate it so the inlet is to the top, and the outlet is to the side?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> "This water pump & EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 can be used in *any mounting configuration (position) apart from being mounted upside down*!"


With other words any configuration is allowed, except the one in which the inlet is pointed downwards.
The basic idea here is that the water is being pushed to the pump by the gravity. That's the only limit


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> With other words any configuration is allowed, except the one in which the inlet is pointed downwards.
> The basic idea here is that the water is being pushed to the pump by the gravity. That's the only limit


That's incorrect. The issue is with the pump being upside down. That's why it's not recommended to install it vertically because one pump will always be upside down. It's generally not recommended to mount a D5 upside down although you can: http://www.overclock.net/t/1553825/d5-pump-run-upside-down/0_20


----------



## inedenimadam

This may or may not be in the right place, but thought I would ask anyway. Do I have my blocked turned the wrong way?



There is just a noticeable pattern with the temps here, and I cant tell if it is TIM pump out due to uneven mounting, or if I have the block turned the wrong direction. Or am I just way to worried over 5C?


----------



## nzphil

I can't really tell by your picture. But it is my understanding that it doesn't really matter which way you orient the block. It is however important to make sure the in/out ports are the right way around. Bad temps are more likely to be caused by poorly mounting the block or using too little or too much thermal paste. Hope this helps.

- Phil


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> This may or may not be in the right place, but thought I would ask anyway. Do I have my blocked turned the wrong way?
> 
> 
> 
> There is just a noticeable pattern with the temps here, and I cant tell if it is TIM pump out due to uneven mounting, or if I have the block turned the wrong direction. Or am I just way to worried over 5C?


just way too worried about 5C. Up to 10c is common. Nothing to worry about here. Your block is mounted fine.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> This may or may not be in the right place, but thought I would ask anyway. Do I have my blocked turned the wrong way?
> 
> There is just a noticeable pattern with the temps here, and I cant tell if it is TIM pump out due to uneven mounting, or if I have the block turned the wrong direction. Or am I just way to worried over 5C?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> just way too worried about 5C. Up to 10c is common. Nothing to worry about here. Your block is mounted fine.


Yep, nothing abnormal with those temps! I've noticed up to 13*C difference between cores.
Qick Prime95 run:

CPU block mounting position:


----------



## surfinchina

With other words any configuration is allowed, except the one in which the inlet is pointed downwards.
The basic idea here is that the water is being pushed to the pump by the gravity. That's the only limit[/quote]

Yes exactly.
The inlet would be fine at the bottom, side or top, as long as the res is above it.
I'm mounting mine with inlet to the top (see model) I like the idea of water dumping into it through a straight pipe.
The pump inlets just have to be at the same height, meaning that the mounts need to be on the horizontal.


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

If you had bad temps, I would firstly check how good the TIM is applied. at high voltages, moutning tension is also important. It booted at 60-80C then with a good mount down to 30-40C


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> This may or may not be in the right place, but thought I would ask anyway. Do I have my blocked turned the wrong way?
> 
> 
> 
> There is just a noticeable pattern with the temps here, and I cant tell if it is TIM pump out due to uneven mounting, or if I have the block turned the wrong direction. Or am I just way to worried over 5C?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzphil*
> 
> I can't really tell by your picture. But it is my understanding that it doesn't really matter which way you orient the block. It is however important to make sure the in/out ports are the right way around. Bad temps are more likely to be caused by poorly mounting the block or using too little or too much thermal paste. Hope this helps.
> 
> - Phil


^This. You must have the outlet back to the pump or next in line in the loop, inlet direct from outlet on res. Maybe too much TIM or need more time to break in. What did you use for TIM? The stuff that EK includes is actually very good.


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

TIM and ammounts have minimal effect, Mainly its block mouting that gives a great diffrence








Even if you hook the in out of block in the wrong way, it should only have minimal temp effects


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 1st time watercooling. EK 240L Kit and a lot of research on here and youtube made it simple!
> 
> Running what is in my signature.


Hey nice, I'm doing a dual rad setup in that case right now. It's been a little tricky for me getting the tubing to fit but I ordered some new fittings and it's better, just need the time to finish it.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> This may or may not be in the right place, but thought I would ask anyway. Do I have my blocked turned the wrong way?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is just a noticeable pattern with the temps here, and I cant tell if it is TIM pump out due to uneven mounting, or if I have the block turned the wrong direction. Or am I just way to worried over 5C?


Everything is fine









It normal to have core temps differences like this. Each core rise in temps differently


----------



## akira749

EK releases monoblock for ASUS X99 motherboards



We also made available the Green and Purple fittings in our EK-HDC lineup in both 12mm and 16mm

EK-HDC Fittings


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases monoblock for ASUS X99 motherboards
> 
> 
> 
> We also made available the Green and Purple fittings in our EK-HDC lineup in both 12mm and 16mm
> 
> EK-HDC Fittings


Is this all the x99 boards? My current build is a Sabertooth x99 board.

Thanks!


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases monoblock for ASUS X99 motherboards
> 
> 
> 
> We also made available the Green and Purple fittings in our EK-HDC lineup in both 12mm and 16mm
> 
> EK-HDC Fittings


We need ORANGE fittings







PLZ, PLZ,


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Is this all the x99 boards? My current build is a Sabertooth x99 board.
> 
> Thanks!


Like stated in the description, the monoblock fits :

ASUS® X99-A
ASUS® X99-DELUXE
ASUS® X99-PRO
ASUS® X99-S
So nothing for the Sabertooth sorry.


----------



## Dagamus NM

That is pretty cool that you released this monoblock for x99 motherboards.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases monoblock for ASUS X99 motherboards
> 
> 
> 
> We also made available the Green and Purple fittings in our EK-HDC lineup in both 12mm and 16mm
> 
> EK-HDC Fittings


How about an X99 monoblock for the Asus Rampage V Extreme Black Edition AND the Asus X99 WS (workstation) Broadwell - E updated boards for BWE coming next Spring.









We won't have to wait until 2017 for those blocks will we?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases monoblock for ASUS X99 motherboards


I already bought a VRM block for a different board and modified it to fit my -A board... why so late to market with these?


----------



## Dagamus NM

Here are a couple shots of the progress I have made in my second build at my second office. Today was the first day that I was there at all since my surgery a month ago. Anyhow, I figured I would get a couple shots with my phone as I didn't feel like breaking out my real camera.






I took a couple of shots trying to show the reflection on the back plates. iPhone just doesn't do it justice.

Anyhow, I have a lot of work to do, but at least I have a nice starting point.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Here are a couple shots of the progress I have made in my second build at my second office. Today was the first day that I was there at all since my surgery a month ago. Anyhow, I figured I would get a couple shots with my phone as I didn't feel like breaking out my real camera.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took a couple of shots trying to show the reflection on the back plates. iPhone just doesn't do it justice.
> 
> Anyhow, I have a lot of work to do, but at least I have a nice starting point.


Gorgeous, absolutely gorgeous.









I want one for a Maximus VIII Extreme.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Hey nice, I'm doing a dual rad setup in that case right now. It's been a little tricky for me getting the tubing to fit but I ordered some new fittings and it's better, just need the time to finish it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'd imagine a dual rad setup could be tricky, but very efficient in that case if you set it up correctly. Would look superb with acrylic tubing. Best of luck, and post back when done!


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Gorgeous, absolutely gorgeous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want one for a Maximus VIII Extreme.


Thank you sir. The goal is to keep it this clean looking. I know that is not possible but sure would like that.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Check this out. I just got my EK EVO X99 in a few minutes ago. Ive had a bunch of EK blocks and Ive never received one that wasnt absolutely flawless...until now

The edge of the block has what appears to be the correct polishing/finish, which doesnt match the rest of the block. It can be seen in both pictures but better in the one immediately below. That curved edge with the two different types of polishing is glaringly obvious even from a distance. You can see it from across the room. Im not exaggerating.



And there is a curly scratch dead center that is extremely noticeable. Im hoping that have my quick disconnects (as large as they are) will sort of draw attention away from the scratch.



Has anyone else ever received a block from EK that wasnt perfect? I havent. I dont even have time to return/exchange it either. I have to get my new mobo swapped in and the cpu tested tomorrow the latest. I dont even know if the cpu works correctly yet and Im rapidly approaching Neweggs "30 days to exchange or you'll have a very large headache" policy

I shouldve gotten the cheaper plastic top one. At least then I wouldnt have cared if it was scuffed up. The 4 Full Cover Lightning blocks I had were all flawless, my cpu and full cover mobo block both flawless. Maybe I'll paint it or Plasti-Dip it. Crap. Im kind of bummed about that

PS: Look at the post with the four Titan nickel backplates. Theyre flawless too (as they should be)


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Check this out. I just got my EK EVO X99 in a few minutes ago. Ive had a bunch of EK blocks and Ive never received one that wasnt absolutely flawless...until now
> 
> The edge of the block has what appears to be the correct polishing/finish, which doesnt match the rest of the block. It can be seen in both pictures but better in the one immediately below. That curved edge with the two different types of polishing is glaringly obvious even from a distance. You can see it from across the room. Im not exaggerating.
> 
> 
> 
> And there is a curly scratch dead center that is extremely noticeable. Im hoping that have my quick disconnects (as large as they are) will sort of draw attention away from the scratch.
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else ever received a block from EK that wasnt perfect? I havent. I dont even have time to return/exchange it either. I have to get my new mobo swapped in and the cpu tested tomorrow the latest. I dont even know if the cpu works correctly yet and Im rapidly approaching Neweggs "30 days to exchange or you'll have a very large headache" policy
> 
> I shouldve gotten the cheaper plastic top one. At least then I wouldnt have cared if it was scuffed up. The 4 Full Cover Lightning blocks I had were all flawless, my cpu and full cover mobo block both flawless. Maybe I'll paint it or Plasti-Dip it. Crap. Im kind of bummed about that
> 
> PS: Look at the post with the four Titan nickel backplates. Theyre flawless too (as they should be)


If I got block with scratches like that, I will be very very very very very upset. Seriously, that should not happened.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> If I got block with scratches like that, I will be very very very very very upset. Seriously, that should not happened.


Thanks. Glad to know Im not overreacting. I wish I had more time because I wouldve sent it back. Unfortunately Im out of time. Has to get built and tested tomorrow. Even if I finishing testing am I going to break it down, out my AMD mobo back in my rig (along with gpus) just to send back a cpu block. No way. Im swapping a mobo in and then back out and then back in again just to get a flawless block. Its too much work. So Im stuck with it


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Thanks. Glad to know Im not overreacting. I wish I had more time because I wouldve sent it back. Unfortunately Im out of time. Has to get built and tested tomorrow. Even if I finishing testing am I going to break it down, out my AMD mobo back in my rig (along with gpus) just to send back a cpu block. No way. Im swapping a mobo in and then back out and then back in again just to get a flawless block. Its too much work. So Im stuck with it


Well, if you don't have time to return it, just polish it yourself. Only takes a trip to the hardware store, an hour of your time and some elbow grease.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Well, if you don't have time to return it, just polish it yourself. Only takes a trip to the hardware store, an hour of your time and some elbow grease.


I hear you but Id rather just plasti-dip it. I have the materials here and its much faster. Had I even thought there was the slightest chance that I wouldve gotten a banged up block I wouldve just ordered the plexi top for $15 less. Know what I mean?


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> I hear you but Id rather just plasti-dip it. I have the materials here and its much faster. Had I even thought there was the slightest chance that I wouldve gotten a banged up block I wouldve just ordered the plexi top for $15 less. Know what I mean?


Please do yourself the favor of giving polishing a shot before going with plasti-dip.

I would be pissed off too. I have had a few EK products with issues but EK always resolved them immediately. I have many more issues with aquacomputer than EK. Probably why I use EK products over everybody else when possible. The only real bummers I have had with EK have been the rotary fittings (probably about $400 worth) that don't leak as long as they are moved to the sweet spot. Al long as my son doesn't move a the tubing it should hold fine otherwise I will have dead equipment.

I also have a 7970 block where the block must have been bumped while it was on the drill press. One of the standoffs doesn't match the graphics cards or backplates. Maybe 2mm off but enough that it doesn't let the screw go in. I have also had some missing items (standoffs, screws, etc.)

Again EK has bent over backwards to take care of what they could. The 7970 block is EOL and it was purchased from FrozenCPU before the great collapse. I haven't complained about the rotary fittings. That said I just go with bitspower for fittings now. I think I have hoarded about $2k in BP fittings in the past three months alone. These would have all been EK fittings if the dang things didn't leak.

Oh well, nobody is perfect but seriously you should give buffing it out a shot. Worst case you have a nice clean surface for the plasti dip to adhere to.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> I'd imagine a dual rad setup could be tricky, but very efficient in that case if you set it up correctly. Would look superb with acrylic tubing. Best of luck, and post back when done!


Thanks. This is my 1st WC build and was scared to do hard acrylic. I wish I would have. Maybe when I clean it next year, I'll upgrade to acrylic.


----------



## Kokin

Any updates for Signalkuppe and/or Ascendacy? Still hoping for a release even after 2 years of waiting!


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Any updates for Signalkuppe and/or Ascendacy? Still hoping for a release even after 2 years of waiting!


Hope dies last


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Any updates for Signalkuppe and/or Ascendacy? Still hoping for a release even after 2 years of waiting!


EK_tiborrr is planning to present a write-up white paper report in a few days.

In this thread I believe. It sounds amazing from what we know so far.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1581215/learn-about-ascendancy

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...EK-Signalkuppe_fit_1200_zpsyia1qzpi.jpeg.html


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> EK_tiborrr is planning to present a write-up white paper report in a few days.
> 
> In this thread I believe. It sounds amazing from what we know so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1581215/learn-about-ascendancy
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...EK-Signalkuppe_fit_1200_zpsyia1qzpi.jpeg.html


Wow that's awesome, thanks for bringing this to my attention!


----------



## SteezyTN

Are there still issues with the new 140's? I've been hearing things that they still have the clicking and metal sounds. I may just ask for a refund. I opened my RMA with PPCS with 4 of them, but have been so busy that I haven't sent them in yet.


----------



## Kutalion

Is there any review for the Asus X99 monoblock yet?


----------



## iBruce

What the heck is going on?

My monitor is reading this pic as 8inches x 16inches.

Why is this photo so extra-large on my screen?

Changes on OCN?

Is anyone else seeing this photo as large as I am or is it smaller on your screen?

Notice the EK reservoir top (lower left).









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4622_zpsjj5rhqro.jpg.html


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Strange happenings with my EK res. Please look at my other thread and advise. Thank you.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1583806/strange-cracks-scratches-on-ek-res


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> What the heck is going on?
> 
> My monitor is reading this pic as 8inches x 16inches.
> 
> Why is this photo so extra-large on my screen?
> 
> Changes on OCN?
> 
> Is anyone else seeing this photo as large as I am or is it smaller on your screen?
> 
> Notice the EK reservoir top (lower left).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4622_zpsjj5rhqro.jpg.html


No it's a big picture.

TCO


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> What the heck is going on?
> 
> My monitor is reading this pic as 8inches x 16inches.
> 
> Why is this photo so extra-large on my screen?
> 
> Changes on OCN?
> 
> Is anyone else seeing this photo as large as I am or is it smaller on your screen?
> 
> Notice the EK reservoir top (lower left).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4622_zpsjj5rhqro.jpg.html


It is huge because you hot linking the picture. This is what you should get, if uploaded properly, the biggest thumbnail size you can set, 500 x 1000.

Code:



Code:


[IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2656462/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]



vs. hot linking

Code:



Code:


[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2656462/[/IMG]


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Rebuilt my loop adding Titan X SLI and a 480 in the bottom. Aside from pump and pump top, all EK. Bitspower top I have had for a long time.


----------



## Nichismo

^^^ im in a somewhat similar boat....

I upgraded from my 780ti SLI setup to a couple 980ti in SLI, I actually had both waterblocks and backplates before I had both GPUs..... lol. I usually bask in the awesomeness of a brand new nickel plexi EK block when I first open the box to one, just sorta stare at them for a while because their so beautiful and robust.

I was really excited to use them, but I ended up doing a whole system teardown and thorough cleaning of my case and all other components... But I snapped these pics before work. Pretty close to having it back up and running again, and ill actually add some Mayhems for some colors this time. (I have pastel black, UV green, pastel green and pastel white. Not sure what combination yet). and ill make a few small tubing changes.

Heres a pic from earlier this year with my 780 tis:


.....and the DRAMATICALLY DIFFERENT IN APPEARENCE 980ti's


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> ^^^ im in a somewhat similar boat....
> 
> I upgraded from my 780ti SLI setup to a couple 980ti in SLI, I actually had both waterblocks and backplates before I had both GPUs..... lol. I usually bask in the awesomeness of a brand new nickel plexi EK block when I first open the box to one, just sorta stare at them for a while because their so beautiful and robust.
> 
> I was really excited to use them, but I ended up doing a whole system teardown and thorough cleaning of my case and all other components... But I snapped these pics before work. Pretty close to having it back up and running again, and ill actually add some Mayhems for some colors this time. (I have pastel black, UV green, pastel green and pastel white. Not sure what combination yet). and ill make a few small tubing changes.
> 
> Heres a pic from earlier this year with my 780 tis:
> 
> 
> .....and the DRAMATICALLY DIFFERENT IN APPEARENCE 980ti's


Sick setup. I am trying to decide on black or nickel back plates. Black might work better with my setup, but nickel SHINY!!!!


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Sick setup. I am trying to decide on black or nickel back plates. Black might work better with my setup, but nickel SHINY!!!!


thanks, lol I literally went through the exact same dilemma, as ever since EK first released them, I had wanted them so bad!

But my more logical side reminded me that for my particular build, it would be just too much silver. With the fittings, the clear coolant, the white case and nickel plexi waterblocks on nearly every component, I knew the black would contrast much better.

Go with what you want though! thats just me!

oh and:


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> thanks, lol I literally went through the exact same dilemma, as ever since EK first released them, I had wanted them so bad!
> 
> But my more logical side reminded me that for my particular build, it would be just too much silver. With the fittings, the clear coolant, the white case and nickel plexi waterblocks on nearly every component, I knew the black would contrast much better.
> 
> Go with what you want though! thats just me!
> 
> oh and:


Nickel is pretty much a mirror finish, right? would look cool to see the top GPU reflecting off the bottom back plate with the Aurora in my loop. hmmm..... Even if it's not mirrored, I can polish it.

Nice upgrade too!


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Kinda liking the Fury's tiny size and non-shorty block


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Kinda liking the Fury's tiny size and non-shorty block


Same here, allowed for some much needed space in my chassis.


----------



## snef

Hi, tried some Graphics on SSD and GPU


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi, tried some Graphics on SSD and GPU










very nice I like it, was thinking of doing similar to my ssds and ram heatsinks for my build.


----------



## bigporl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi, tried some Graphics on SSD and GPU


Sweet saw it on your facebook post asked if it was here.
Do you make a decal for your ssd or is it a cover you make?


----------



## snef

Thanks, they are printed stickers


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Things are coming along...









More in my *build log*.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## tbone8ty

so hot right now


----------



## surfinchina

The pics above made me think,
I really want some black bolts for the CPU block.
I have a nickel evo supremacy on a black mobo and the shiny bolts look not so good, although the nickel block itself is nice.

Has anyone found any? Or painting the existing I guess is an option... Although the nickel would need etching...


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> The pics above made me think,
> I really want some black bolts for the CPU block.
> I have a nickel evo supremacy on a black mobo and the shiny bolts look not so good, although the nickel block itself is nice.
> 
> Has anyone found any? Or *painting the existing* I guess is an option... Although the nickel would need etching...


No etching required. A good 2 in 1 paint should do as long as it's prepped right.


----------



## surfinchina

Brilliant








Thanks for the quick reply.

I'll post up some pics when it's finished. My last watercooling bits turned up today just in time for a 3 week vacation haha.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> The pics above made me think,
> I really want some black bolts for the CPU block.
> I have a nickel evo supremacy on a black mobo and the shiny bolts look not so good, although the nickel block itself is nice.
> 
> Has anyone found any? Or painting the existing I guess is an option... Although the nickel would need etching...


@sinnedone has a great example. Painting the thumbs really matched the theme on the block.

Although you can do a ton of options with other color paints as well.

S3, Red and White.



This is SMA8 Build with Blue and White. Nickle stays.



TCO

EDIT: Starting to notice I might just like white....


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @sinnedone has a great example. Painting the thumbs really matched the theme on the block.
> 
> Although you can do a ton of options with other color paints as well.
> 
> S3, Red and White.
> 
> 
> 
> This is SMA8 Build with Blue and White. Nickle stays.
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: Starting to notice I might just like white....


TCO I told you stop copying me haha j/k love your builds. Will be taking better pictures once I figure out which settings to use on my Nikon D5100.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> TCO I told you stop copying me haha j/k love your builds. Will be taking better pictures once I figure out which settings to use on my Nikon D5100.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The One part you forgot was sanding that CSQ block until your fingers bled.









Your build is looking great. And the 5100 Is what I used to shot the SMA8. I used my Canon T5 Rebel to shoot the S3









TCO


----------



## Nichismo

finally got my rig back up and running after a very long time off and inactive.....

except with a couple SLI 980tis and new coolant instead of clear to boot.....

really happy with it right now, just about to fire it up.....


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The One part you forgot was sanding that CSQ block until your fingers bled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your build is looking great. And the 5100 Is what I used to shot the SMA8. I used my Canon T5 Rebel to shoot the S3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Hi Buddy thanks for the heads up on Nikon 5100 - bought it off ebay this past Sunday but cant get a message back from seller - doesnt sound promising


----------



## Benjiw

Hi I have a used EK naked mount kit for my i5 when I delid it, but it didn't come with the 3x 0.7mm washers for the mounts, I was wondering why you only get 3 of them? also how can I get some replacements?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Hi I have a used EK naked mount kit for my i5 when I delid it, but it didn't come with the 3x 0.7mm washers for the mounts, I was wondering why you only get 3 of them? also how can I get some replacements?


The washers are for the 3 bolts that hold the socket latch on rather than for the cpu block mount posts. Those would use the ones that came with the original mount system.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The washers are for the 3 bolts that hold the socket mount on rather than for the cpu block mount posts. Those would use the ones that came with the original mount system.


Not sure about that as the manual lists.
Quote:


> STEP 4.1: Installing the mounting screws:
> Install the M4 thumb screws of the PreciseMount Add-on "Naked Ivy" mounting
> system onto your motherboard. It is mandatory to put 0.7mm plastic washer
> underneath each of these four M4 thumb screws. Tighten the M4 thumb screw
> to the metal backplate with your hands until you reach the end of the thread.
> You also use 6mm mini wrench to tighten the screws to the motherboard.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Not sure about that as the manual lists.


Yeah, the original precise mount system comes with those washers


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah, the original precise mount system comes with those washers


See that's even more confusing because they're:
Quote:


> M4 0.5mm polyamid washers (5 pcs)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> Hi Buddy thanks for the heads up on Nikon 5100 - bought it off ebay this past Sunday but cant get a message back from seller - doesnt sound promising


No problem! Good luck on the Seller









TCO


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> See that's even more confusing because they're:


I'm not sure where you got that from but, this is the Supremacy instructions


and Naked Ivy


Edit; I see where it came from now, the parts list for the precisemount bought separately. Either it is wrong or they changed some time. Either way they give you three with the naked kit because its for two bolts and a spare. 5 washers come with the precicemount for the 4 cpu mount posts and a spare. Naked Ivy reuses those for its cpu mount posts.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I'm not sure where you got that from but, this is the Supremacy instructions
> 
> 
> and Naked Ivy


They're what I quoted yes, direct from EK's site.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> They're what I quoted yes, direct from EK's site.


close, but not quite. You had a quote from the Naked Ivy add on mentioning 4 washers. My quote is from original supremacy precisemount mentioning those same washers it already provides.
Then the Naked add on shows where the washers it provides are used.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> close, but not quite. You had a quote from the Naked Ivy add on mentioning 4 washers. My quote is from original supremacy precisemount mentioning those same washers it already provides.
> Then the Naked add on shows where the washers it provides are used.


Ok so why does it list this...
Quote:


> Details
> 
> EK-Supremacy EVO PreciseMount is an universal mounting mechanism that offers error-preventing, tool-less installation. The result is a perfect installation which results in perfect performance every time.
> 
> Enclosed:
> - *M4 0.5mm polyamid washers (5 pcs)*
> - M4 threaded thumb screws (4 pcs)
> - Springs (4 pcs)
> - M4 threaded thumb nuts (4 pcs)
> - LGA-2011 M4 threaded mounting studs (4 pcs)
> - Additional jet plate J2
> - Allen key 2.5mm
> 
> All enclosed screws and nuts are made of high-quality nickel plated brass.
> 
> Made in Slovenia - EU!


Now on the mounting instructions:
Quote:


> STEP 5c: Installing the mounting system:
> Intel Socket LGA-775/115x/1366 and AMD sockets:
> Install the M4 thumb screws of the PreciseMount mounting system onto your
> motherboard. *It is mandatory to put 0.7mm plastic washer underneath each of
> the M4 thumb screws.* Tighten the M4 thumb screw to the metal backplate with
> your hands until you reach the end of the thread. Using tools (such as pliers) is
> not recommended!


Ok so now lets go to the naked mounts on the same site.
Quote:


> De-lidded CPU support list:
> - Intel® Core i7 3700 & 4700 series CPUs
> - Intel® Core i5 3000 & 4000 series CPUs
> - Intel® Core i3 3000 & 4000 series CPUs
> - Intel® Pentium G2000 series CPUs
> - Intel® Celeron G1600 series CPUs
> - Intel® Xeon E3-1200V2 series CPUs
> - Intel® Xeon E3-1200V3 series CPUs
> 
> Enclosed:
> - M4 0.7mm polyamid washers (3 pcs)
> - M4 threaded thumb screws "Naked Ivy" (4 pcs)
> - Torx T20 key
> 
> Made in Slovenia - EU!


And the pdf, same page...
Quote:


> STEP 4.1: Installing the mounting screws:
> Install the M4 thumb screws of the PreciseMount Add-on "Naked Ivy" mounting
> system onto your motherboard. It is mandatory to put 0.7mm plastic washer
> underneath each of these four M4 thumb screws. Tighten the M4 thumb screw
> to the metal backplate with your hands until you reach the end of the thread.
> You also use 6mm mini wrench to tighten the screws to the motherboard.
> You may now install your delided 3rd generation Intel Core i3/i5/i7 CPU into the
> motherboard socket. You may use scotch tape to secure the CPU to edges of
> the socket.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


It's not that I don't believe you, but I'm confused by the conflicting information.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> It's not that I don't believe you, but I'm confused by the conflicting information.


I am kinda waiting on Jackusonfire to back up what just happened. I have no Idea what's going on. Im just here for support.









TCO


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ok so why does it list this...
> Now on the mounting instructions:
> Ok so now lets go to the naked mounts on the same site.
> And the pdf, same page...
> 
> It's not that I don't believe you, but I'm confused by the conflicting information.


Yes, I get that you are confused but I don't really see why. The only time those washers are called 0.5mm is that one parts list for the precisemount replacement. Every Supremacy and Supremacy EVO manual has always listed them as 0.7mm, just as they are in the naked add on kit manual.

The Naked Ivy add on is an upgrade kit. They give you only the parts that need to be changed ... The four posts and two washers + one spare for the ILM. The rest is already included with the original mount.

You are letting that one mention of 0.5mm whashers over ride everything else like the numbers provided etc

If you are still concerned I recommend contacting EK support. They are normally reasonably quick replying (quick in days that is, not minutes)


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yes, I get that you are confused but I don't really see why. The only time those washers are called 0.5mm is that one parts list for the precisemount. Every Supremacy and Supremacy EVO manual has always listed them as 0.7mm, just as they are in the naked add on kit
> 
> The Naked Ivy add on is an upgrade kit. They give you only the parts that need to be changed ... The four posts and two washers + one spare for the ILM. The rest is already included with the original mount.


Well fair enough but someone like me who is used to reading parts lists and instructions is going to be stood there with vernier calipers measuring the washers because he doesn't want to crack the die on his cpu... So can you understand why I'm not just sat here going, "it'll be fine cos a stranger on the interwebs said it would be"... Given I've seen some very very stupid stuff on the internet.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Well fair enough but someone like me who is used to reading parts lists and instructions is going to be stood there with vernier calipers measuring the washers because he doesn't want to crack the die on his cpu... So can you understand why I'm not just sat here going, "it'll be fine cos a stranger on the interwebs said it would be"... Given I've seen some very very stupid stuff on the internet.


That probably isn't a good idea then. These aren't machined parts, if you measure them they will be varying thicknesses. Mine are all around 0.8mm - 0.85mm for example
They are plastic and compress under load. The posts don't provide a critical height as such, just a height for the springs to apply pressure on the block.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That probably isn't a good idea then. These aren't machined parts, if you measure them they will be varying thicknesses. Mine are all around 0.8mm for example
> They are plastic and compress under load


----------



## Nichismo

so plastic washer thickness is the current flavorful topic right now? Ive been gone for some time here on OCN, sure seems like some of the relevant topic discussion and substance has been a tad bit lacking........ lol

a bit more relevant in my opinion:

EK, id really REALLY appreciate a little friendly exposure on your facebook page with a few of these shots









if its feasible, of course









however I would indeed like to reiterate that this build has been by far my best, as in better than the handful of other generous photos you guys delightfully shared for me on the page in the past!


----------



## fast_fate

Unlikely to get EK exposure with that XSPC rad being so conspicuous, but good luck.
Build looks great


----------



## dcatvn

Hi guys,

Can I use the EK-res X3 multiport top on the EK-Xres 140 D5 as inlet?

Thank you


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcatvn*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Can I use the EK-res X3 multiport top on the EK-Xres 140 D5 as inlet?
> 
> Thank you


Yes...

I believe that the Xres 140 D5 fits an X3 tube...


----------



## dcatvn

Yea it does fit the tube but I am just not sure if I can use it as an inlet on the top since the pump/reservoir combo also has an inlet.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcatvn*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Can I use the EK-res X3 multiport top on the EK-Xres 140 D5 as inlet?
> 
> Thank you


Yup I own one.

The top can go on top (or on the bottom) of any X-Res 3 60mm OD reservoir. And EK X-Res 140 D5 uses a X-Res 3 60mm OD Reservoir.

The pump reservoir combo unit comes with a plug, just be sure to plug in the inlet port at the pump top. If I'm not mistaken the recessed port is the outlet port requiring an extender, while the inlet port is just a regular G1/4" port that will sit flush with the top body once you screw in the EK supplied plug.


----------



## dcatvn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Yup I own one.
> 
> The top can go on top (or on the bottom) of any X-Res 3 60mm OD reservoir. And EK X-Res 140 D5 uses a X-Res 3 60mm OD Reservoir.
> 
> The pump reservoir combo unit comes with a plug, just be sure to plug in the inlet port at the pump top. If I'm not mistaken the recessed port is the outlet port requiring an extender, while the inlet port is just a regular G1/4" port that will sit flush with the top body once you screw in the EK supplied plug.


Got it, thanks a lot guys


----------



## akira749

EK releases monoblock for ASUS MAXIMUS VIII Impact motherboard!


----------



## Dave6531

Polished block, gtx 970 strix backplate, custom fan grill not finished, backplate and grill done by me. Had to share to excited for the new movie. Also finished the frame for light box so will be posting better photos of my ek parts soon.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Yup I own one.
> 
> The top can go on top (or on the bottom) of any X-Res 3 60mm OD reservoir. And EK X-Res 140 D5 uses a X-Res 3 60mm OD Reservoir.
> 
> The pump reservoir combo unit comes with a plug, just be sure to plug in the inlet port at the pump top. If I'm not mistaken the recessed port is the outlet port requiring an extender, while the inlet port is just a regular G1/4" port that will sit flush with the top body once you screw in the EK supplied plug.


It's the other way round. The outlet is the standard port because it is the only one that must be used and the inlets are recessed because they don't have to be used. If you get the multi port top then an extender might be needed if you want to use one of the three recessed ports on the top surface.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It's the other way round. The outlet is the standard port because it is the only one that must be used and the inlets are recessed because they don't have to be used. If you get the multi port top then an extender might be needed if you want to use one of the three recessed ports on the top surface.


Yes yes. You are right. I just peered into my case.


----------



## Barefooter

I'm going to be upgrading my rig to tri SLI and have a question for you all.

I'm going to be using an EK-FC triple parallel bridge, and this is the first time I've used this type of bridge.

Should I install the bridge on the three cards and then install them all as a unit onto the motherboard.

Or should I install the three GPUs onto the motherboard, and then put the bridge on.

Thanks!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I'm going to be upgrading my rig to tri SLI and have a question for you all.
> 
> I'm going to be using an EK-FC triple parallel bridge, and this is the first time I've used this type of bridge.
> 
> Should I install the bridge on the three cards and then install them all as a unit onto the motherboard.
> 
> Or should I install the three GPUs onto the motherboard, and then put the bridge on.
> 
> Thanks!


I usually connect all my GPU's together with the bridge and then install them on the motherboard.


----------



## fast_fate

EK-XTOP Revo D5 mated with EK's PWM D5


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> EK-XTOP Revo D5 mated with EK's PWM D5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The plexi top looks just as sweet.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4300_zpsb7gel2ys.jpg.html


----------



## rsvette12

Great looking shots what are you guys using for cameras - just curious as I have a Nikon 5100 on the way


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> Great looking shots what are you guys using for cameras - just curious as I have a Nikon 5100 on the way


iPhone 6 basic from 2014, stock out of the box.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4463_zps8akfebzj.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4469_zpswh9mpnmk.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4449_zpsc7ia08ge.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4455_zps1gfbq2mn.jpg.html


----------



## rsvette12

Very nice for a phone


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> Very nice for a phone


Using 6000K color temperature LED desklamp as backlighting is the trick to making any phone camera take better pics.

iPhone in one hand, desklamp in the other, it's a balancing act.


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Using 6000K color temperature LED desklamp as backlighting is the trick to making any phone camera take better pics.
> 
> iPhone in one hand, desklamp in the other, it's a balancing act.


Thanks Bruce good info - just a thought I bought 3d ek badges for some reason I find them distracting after install - hmm jury still out on this one


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> Thanks Bruce good info - just a thought I bought 3d ek badges for some reason I find them distracting after install - hmm jury still out on this one


Really? Wow I LOVE the silver/white version 3D badges, got 10 count of them and 5 of the orange for another build.

My build colors are plexi/clear, white, EK nickel/silver, black and gunmetal gray with subtle white LED lighting overhead and transparent white fluid clear tubing so I'm hoping to get a nice LED shimmer out of the new badges.

Using a ROG board and swapping all the red accents on the board to white, white PCIe slot covers, white reservoir, white PSU, so I'm very excited about the silver with white lettering badges.

There's so much gunmetal gray in my build it's crazy M8E, mostly gray, EVGA 980 KingPin, mostly gray, CaseLabs S8S all gunmetal interior with white PCIe slots.

I guess the 3-dimensional badges are not for everyone, the 1-D brushed aluminum are still available 5 for $5 at PPCS.









http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-badge-5-pcs.html

I need a bumper sticker for my Jeep, that says "Ask Me About My Build"









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4441_zpsep1urazl.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4333_zpsiai00t2p.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4674_zpscont8ugr.jpg.html


----------



## rsvette12

Yes I have the silver and white - maybe because my case is white and a lot of reflection going on - thats a nice rig you have

"Using a ROG board and swapping all the red accents on the board to white, white PCIe slot covers"

And how are you going about this as I have a ROG also and my coolant will be mayhem uv white pastel with blue dye and a bit of red to get it there faster - thanks for sharing


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> Yes I have the silver and white - maybe because my case is white and a lot of reflection going on - thats a nice rig you have
> 
> "Using a ROG board and swapping all the red accents on the board to white, white PCIe slot covers"
> 
> And how are you going about this as I have a ROG also and my coolant will be mayhem uv white pastel with blue dye and a bit of red to get it there faster - thanks for sharing


For the two red triangles I'm going to try to measure and cut white vinyl tape from Home Depot using an X-acto blade, got the idea from an email friend sent me, Lauren of TastyPC the youtuber has a video on using colored vinyl tape, watched it, and she got very good results.

The "SupremeFX" lettering I'm giong to take a bright white bitspower 92bright fitting into Home Depot or Lowes and they computer color match the brightness it might be like a hospital white, and have that paint made up custom, use a micro roller and roll right over the raised lettering.

For the ROG eye and chipset heatsink, that thin aluminum panel slides out, so I may get very creative with the white paint and a very thin brush and hand paint over the red design, have a feeling white might not look so good in that spot, so maybe a neutral black on the heatsink cover, and move the RGB LED on the ROG eye to white or leave it turned off.

I don't want to use pastel white coolant, since everyone is claiming it turns color in a very short time, so thought maybe the transparent milky white mayhems coolant, or Mayhems X1 plus dye.

edit: yea, that covers ALL the red parts on the ROG board, going to leave the START button red, like it that way.









Not completely sure what to do about the coolant coloring, haven't gotten that far yet.


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*


Sounds great - wish you luck - I also was thinking of using white vinyl - I have some I ordered from Amazon - stuff is pretty good - plan on using it to cover ROG light (drives me crazy) and one other spot that I dont use which has a small red connector - I have the Maximus Formula VII - full armor so it should be much easier for me - I have a lot less to paint than you - yeah lol


----------



## iBruce

Here is the coolant I'm trying to match, not certain if its pastel or transparent white. this video at 4:08, the Mr Lao build.

If anyone knows what I need to do to achieve this aesthetic with the coolant, please let me know.














And here's the TastyPC video at 3:45 Lauren gets a pretty good result with vinyl tape.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> EK-XTOP Revo D5 mated with EK's PWM D5


Difference between fast_fate's photos and mine, his have MUCH greater pixel density and sharpness, my phone camera versus his high quality SLR camera.

Does this mean there's a formal REVO TOP review in the hopper, on the horizon, about to take flight?












































As far as the badges being distracting? One man's distraction is another man's highlight. (zing)









If I was the Grand PooBah at EK, I would have titled the new badges nickel and white, not silver, but Anyhoo.









Here's a very poor light quality photo taken with 2500K LEDs, but still shows how well the new EK nickel and white badges reflect and bend the light into the sweetest wavelength. (purposely over-embellished)









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4652_zpsgqbm0ejo.jpg.html


----------



## chas1723

Quick question. Where do you but replacement gaskets for the supremacy evo? Mine is leaking after a rebuild.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


----------



## fast_fate

There is a very high likelihood of my Revo Top Review to pop up this week


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> There is a very high likelihood of my Revo Top Review to pop up this week
























REVO review























...and that's the sexiest pic of the day professor.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> ...and that's the sexiest pic of the day professor.


It's a terrible shot - Forgot to take off the protective sticker on the badge....


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Quick question. Where do you but replacement gaskets for the supremacy evo? Mine is leaking after a rebuild.
> 
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


There's one @ Performance PC's...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/oring-supremacy-evo-mx.html


----------



## chas1723

Did not look the same as what came on it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Quick question. Where do you but replacement gaskets for the supremacy evo? Mine is leaking after a rebuild.
> 
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> There's one @ Performance PC's...
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/oring-supremacy-evo-mx.html
Click to expand...

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Did not look the same as what came on it
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Quick question. Where do you but replacement gaskets for the supremacy evo? Mine is leaking after a rebuild.
> 
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> There's one @ Performance PC's...
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/oring-supremacy-evo-mx.html
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

You mean because it's round and not the shape on the block top?

It should conform to the shape of the Supremacy EVO pattern...

I have a Supremacy EVO, also...


----------



## chas1723

Thanks. I'll give it a try.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Did not look the same as what came on it
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Quick question. Where do you but replacement gaskets for the supremacy evo? Mine is leaking after a rebuild.
> 
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> There's one @ Performance PC's...
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/oring-supremacy-evo-mx.html
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You mean because it's round and not the shape on the block top?
> 
> It should conform to the shape of the Supremacy EVO pattern...
> 
> I have a Supremacy EVO, also...
Click to expand...

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Thanks. I'll give it a try.
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


Good! What do you have to lose @ $2.99?

Most O-rings come round, unless it's a special situation, for whatever reason...


----------



## iBruce

Are you certain that's the proper Supremacy EVO gasket? I thought the replacement was octagon-shaped, not round like an o-ring?

In review photos, the gasket is eight-sided, and pre-shaped to fit, trying to fit that round O-ring around all eight corners, I wouldn't trust it for a good water tight seal.

Let me find a pic.

In SuperStren's disassembly video, the gasket is pre-formed and octagon shaped, am I missing something here?














The gasket looks pre-formed with (8) interior and exterior bends, not a round o-ring at all.


----------



## VSG

O-rings are round, you just conform it to the shape you want. That's also how O-rings in GPU blocks have various different shapes out of the box.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Thanks. I'll give it a try.
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


It will work. I ordered three of those in June and they came as the octagon shape.


----------



## iBruce

O-rings ARE round.

But gaskets are pre-shaped for a custom fit. (still scratching head)









I'm guessing early on EK was using 8-sided gaskets with the Supremacy EVOs and now they are using O-rings. TaDa.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> O-rings ARE round.
> 
> But gaskets are pre-shaped for a custom fit. (still scratching head)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing early on EK was using 8-sided gaskets with the Supremacy EVOs and now they are using O-rings. TaDa.


IIRC when I ordered them the picture showed the round o ring but what I got was the formed one.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> O-rings are round, you just conform it to the shape you want. That's also how O-rings in GPU blocks have various different shapes out of the box.


Your massive brain is needed in THIS thread STAT doctor.









We have an issue.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1572798/ek-introduces-new-revo-d5-series-of-pumps-and-reservoirs-combos/110#post_24721473


----------



## Archea47

Thought about having a predator 240 for the server. It uses an AMD FX processor and the only predators I'm seeing on PPCs say they're designed for Intel. What's going on here?

Also by any wild chance, anyone have an EK ASUS M4N mosfet block hanging around for the Girl's Box?

If I have to go custom for the server ... in the same vane of being lazy - anyone have experience with the EK D5 dbay reservoirs up on PPCs?


----------



## iBruce

Two issues this morning arising from manufacturers printed error or photo descriptive errors. Geez, thought I was losing my mind, such confusion can be created when manuals are misprinted diagrams incorrect, OR in the case of the o-ring that really isn't an o-ring at all.

Going to order an EVO replacement gasket right now from PPCS pick up Monday and see what I get. Hoping for the octagon.









Totally lost all sense of direction this morning, even began questioning my AC PWM signal was somehow incorrectly assigned from the Aquaero to the D5. Whaaaaaat? Say it isn't So!









"There is a fifth dimension beyond that which is known to man. It is a dimension as vast as space and as timeless as infinity. It is the middle ground between light and shadow, between science and superstition, and it lies between the pit of man's fears and the summit of his knowledge. This is the dimension of imagination. It is an area which we call...The Twilight Zone."

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4689_zpstt4eh56r.jpg.html


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thought about having a predator 240 for the server. It uses an AMD FX processor and the only predators I'm seeing on PPCs say they're designed for Intel. What's going on here?


At present the predator is only compatible with Intel sockets. An AMD version is coming sometime in 2016 if I remember correctly.

I suppose it is possible to take the block apart and order in the amd brackets but at the same time you'd lose the benefits of a ready to roll aio setup.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> IIRC when I ordered them the picture showed the round o ring but what I got was the formed one.


Either way, a little bit of non-volatile silicone grease on the oring will help the Oring stick and stay formed to the shape of the groove. Works for GPU blocks and worked for reassembling my Supremacy CSQ and Supremacy EVO.


----------



## Thoth420

High quality pr0n shots inc soon.
All credit to Maingear Computers, EK and AMD (and Acer too)for making my dream a reality!


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> High quality pr0n shots inc soon.
> All credit to Maingear Computers, EK and AMD (and Acer too)for making my dream a reality!


Looks great!

I see the size of the Fury really came in handy too


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Looks great!
> 
> I see the size of the Fury really came in handy too


It was the cornerstone of fitting everything in the H440 as I wanted.









A Nano would have done fine but I grabbed a Fury X before they came out.


----------



## 0xzz

hey, i could use some advice on my first custom loop, i will buy all parts from ek in january.
this is how my loop will (most likely) look like:
EK XRES 140 Revo D5 (incl. pump) -> EK GTX 980Ti GPU Block -> 360 rad in the top -> EK-Supremacy EVO on my i7 6700k -> 280 rad in front -> into the top of the XRES.

im already planning on how to drain my loop when doing maintenance: i will put a ball valve with a plug on the inlet of the d5 pump to get the water out but i dont know how to get air in so all the water will come out.
any advice on how to improve my plan?

Regards


----------



## pcrevolution

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> hey, i could use some advice on my first custom loop, i will buy all parts from ek in january.
> this is how my loop will (most likely) look like:
> EK XRES 140 Revo D5 (incl. pump) -> EK GTX 980Ti GPU Block -> 360 rad in the top -> EK-Supremacy EVO on my i7 6700k -> 280 rad in front -> into the top of the XRES.
> 
> im already planning on how to drain my loop when doing maintenance: i will put a ball valve with a plug on the inlet of the d5 pump to get the water out but i dont know how to get air in so all the water will come out.
> any advice on how to improve my plan?
> 
> Regards






Are you planning to use the top of the reservoir as an inlet into your pump/res combo?



If so, then I guess we are somewhat on the same boat?

I had to rotate my case forward 90degrees (such that the front panel is becomes the bottom) and I connected a hose and compression fitting into the inlet port of the pump top and use that to fill the loop.

You will have to maintain this orientation to cycle the loop until its reasonably full. Detach and then attack your ball valve and viola.

However, if you use this method, it is unlikely that the reservoir will ever be full to the brim when your system is running. And when it's not running there'll be a slight gap in the liquid between your 280 rad and the brim of the reservoir.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> 
> Are you planning to use the top of the reservoir as an inlet into your pump/res combo?
> 
> 
> 
> If so, then I guess we are somewhat on the same boat?
> 
> I had to rotate my case forward 90degrees (such that the front panel is becomes the bottom) and I connected a hose and compression fitting into the inlet port of the pump top and use that to fill the loop.
> 
> You will have to maintain this orientation to cycle the loop until its reasonably full. Detach and then attack your ball valve and viola.
> 
> However, if you use this method, it is unlikely that the reservoir will ever be full to the brim when your system is running. And when it's not running there'll be a slight gap in the liquid between your 280 rad and the brim of the reservoir.


yeah thats exactly how i plan to setup my loop, but i will use a EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP on my res to attach a fill tube so i can attach the closed valve before i fill it. i already figuered out how to fill it, i was asking how to drain it afterwards because i dont think all the water will come out when i open the valve


----------



## mcmilk11

Hi i have an EKWB just for my processor i have with the kit like 8 month so i tired of looking black tubbing so i decided to bought a new one, red for combinate with my rig.

So i read the specs before to buy of my tubbing size 3/8 and 5/8 no problem i said so i bought this one to replace it

http://]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQQV3A4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Ok so i decided to change it i dissamble all my pc and then all ok the tubbing fits perfect with the fitting but when i put the safe part to put pression for the tubbing and then pull is release from the fitting.

why? if is the same size

this is my kit

http://]https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-kit-l360

Sorry for my bad english.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcmilk11*
> 
> Hi i have an EKWB just for my processor i have with the kit like 8 month so i tired of looking black tubbing so i decided to bought a new one, red for combinate with my rig.
> 
> So i read the specs before to buy of my tubbing size 3/8 and 5/8 no problem i said so i bought this one to replace it
> 
> http://]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQQV3A4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
> 
> Ok so i decided to change it i dissamble all my pc and then all ok the tubbing fits perfect with the fitting but when i put the safe part to put pression for the tubbing and then pull is release from the fitting.
> 
> why? if is the same size
> 
> this is my kit
> 
> http://]https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-kit-l360
> 
> Sorry for my bad english.


I think you'll need to use XSPC compression fittings. I have the regular XSPC tube, not the FLX one, that I use when draining my loop which my Monsoon compression fitting unable to grab when tighten. At XSPC website, they use Metric unit (mm) for the tubing. So the tube may not exactly 5/8" OD which may explain why your EK compression fittings unable to grab the tube.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> yeah thats exactly how i plan to setup my loop, but i will use a EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP on my res to attach a fill tube so i can attach the closed valve before i fill it. i already figuered out how to fill it, i was asking how to drain it afterwards because i dont think all the water will come out when i open the valve


Sorry I misread your question.

Most of the time if I'm not dismantling the loop I'll resort to tilting and rotating. Otherwise I'll just remove the tubing from each component one at a time.


----------



## mcmilk11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I think you'll need to use XSPC compression fittings. I have the regular XSPC tube, not the FLX one, that I use when draining my loop which my Monsoon compression fitting unable to grab when tighten. At XSPC website, they use Metric unit (mm) for the tubing. So the tube may not exactly 5/8" OD which may explain why your EK compression fittings unable to grab the tube.


that's what i think buy xspc fittins but for this hollidays take a long time to arrive to my country.

can i put plastic straps like this for a few days anyone has experience with this?


----------



## akira749

EK releases monoblock for ASUS MAXIMUS VIII Extreme motherboard!


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases monoblock for ASUS MAXIMUS VIII Extreme motherboard!


http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...inline_nbt0js25uz1qfkjm4_zpsvhivzvcj.gif.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/ekfb-asus-m8e_np_fit_800_zps5eyqqm3d.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/EKFB-ASUS-M8E_NP_fit_poster_zpsq4ieaidj.jpg.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases monoblock for ASUS MAXIMUS VIII Extreme motherboard!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...inline_nbt0js25uz1qfkjm4_zpsvhivzvcj.gif.html
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/ekfb-asus-m8e_np_fit_800_zps5eyqqm3d.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/EKFB-ASUS-M8E_NP_fit_poster_zpsq4ieaidj.jpg.html
Click to expand...





























































~Ceadder


----------



## deehoC

Splurged on some EK Black nickel compression fittings and 45° adapters + EK UV Blue Coolant and some of Mayhem's soft tubing and swapped out the original tube/fittings/coolant on my H240-X. Overall I'm happy with how it turned out for my first foray into opening/changing my loop although I kind of wish I routed the tube connecting to the pump a little more visibly.

Got that dinky lil ASUS GTX 550 Ti in there while I wait for my MSI GTX 970 Golden Edition to come back from RMA..feels so odd looking at such a small card now when I'm used to seeing the 970 lol


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Realms

Refreshed my Sandy rig with a new case and some EK goodness.

*System*
Quote:


> i7 2600k
> Gigabyte Z68XP-UD4
> 16GB Corsair Vengeance 8-8-8-24
> EVGA GTX570 HD SuperClocked
> Intel & Corsair SSD's


*FROM THIS*





*TO THIS*




*
New Gear*

EK-XRES with 150 res tube.
EK D5 Vario pump
2x EK CoolStream SE 360 radiators
6x Cougar CFD120 fans
NZXT Grid+ V2 Fan Controller
EK Supremacy CPU block
EK Monarch RAM block
EK HDC 12mm fittings
EK 90 degree elbows
EK 12mm PETG rigid tubing
EK-EKoolant Pastel White
EVGA SuperNova G2 750w PSU
Cablemods cables for EVGA G2 PSU

Pics

Mmmmmmm shiny





Waterblock fitted















And done!


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Realms*
> 
> Refreshed my Sandy rig with a new case and some EK goodness.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *System*
> *FROM THIS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *TO THIS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> New Gear*
> 
> EK-XRES with 150 res tube.
> EK D5 Vario pump
> 2x EK CoolStream SE 360 radiators
> 6x Cougar CFD120 fans
> NZXT Grid+ V2 Fan Controller
> EK Supremacy CPU block
> EK Monarch RAM block
> EK HDC 12mm fittings
> EK 90 degree elbows
> EK 12mm PETG rigid tubing
> EK-EKoolant Pastel White
> EVGA SuperNova G2 750w PSU
> Cablemods cables for EVGA G2 PSU
> 
> Pics
> 
> Mmmmmmm shiny
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waterblock fitted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And done!


Anyone else craving Oreos now...? LOL

Nice upgrade, I'd say everything looks great.

I wish I had the ability to take niiice photos like that. Cellphone camera and bad lighting don't help my cause I suppose.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Anyone else craving Oreos now...? LOL
> 
> Nice upgrade, I'd say everything looks great.
> 
> I wish I had the ability to take niiice photos like that. Cellphone camera and bad lighting don't help my cause I suppose.


I'm in the same boat lol!

Nice looking builds y'all!


----------



## BURGER4life

Because EK won't make a block for the Asus 980 Ti Matrix but i want one i'm going to mod one on it








Purchased a EK-FC780 GTX Ti Matrix block. 780 Ti and 980 Ti Matrix share the same cooler, so the die and ram part fits perfect without modification.



However, the VRM portion of the block hits the chokes, but not for long











Will assemble it tonight and post some more pics after that.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> Because EK won't make a block for the Asus 980 Ti Matrix but i want one i'm going to mod one on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Purchased a EK-FC780 GTX Ti Matrix block. 780 Ti and 980 Ti Matrix share the same cooler, so the die and ram part fits perfect without modification.
> 
> However, the VRM portion of the block hits the chokes, but not for long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will assemble it tonight and post some more pics after that.


Please do. Seeing as the Strix boards seemed far more like Matrix boards this time around I though maybe they would end up sharing one but I guess not. Provide as much detail as you can please.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcmilk11*
> 
> that's what i think buy xspc fittins but for this hollidays take a long time to arrive to my country.
> 
> can i put plastic straps like this for a few days anyone has experience with this?


I'd strongly recommend against the use of zip ties. They'll seem secure, but odds are it won't be long until a leak develops since they don't really seal things.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcmilk11*
> 
> Hi i have an EKWB just for my processor i have with the kit like 8 month so i tired of looking black tubbing so i decided to bought a new one, red for combinate with my rig.
> 
> So i read the specs before to buy of my tubbing size 3/8 and 5/8 no problem i said so i bought this one to replace it
> 
> http://]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQQV3A4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
> 
> Ok so i decided to change it i dissamble all my pc and then all ok the tubbing fits perfect with the fitting but when i put the safe part to put pression for the tubbing and then pull is release from the fitting.
> 
> why? if is the same size
> 
> this is my kit
> 
> http://]https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-kit-l360
> 
> Sorry for my bad english.


There is often variation in tubing size. New fittings may not be any different or maybe they will, its very hard to say. EK fittings are normally very good though.

Cable ties work quite well with barb fittings because they don't have to seal anything, they just prevent the tubing from being able to slide off the barb. The barbs on compression fittings aren't exactly the same but it should still work fine. Just be sure to test for saftety.


----------



## Archea47

Realms, awesome build. Did you know the radiators would fit, or find out in the process that you're wildly lucky when they barely cleared each other?







Your previous iteration aged really well by the way

BURGER4life, very nice. I've had to put a few blocks myself in the mill to fit my 290x cards. Milling copper can be interesting - I had issues with the copper chipping once very thin. Water blocks are my only experience machining copper though

One of the big issues with zip/ny ties, just like worm gear clamps, is that they don't give a consistent pressure around the circumference of the hose. A spring clamp is preferable if only using barbs.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Realms

Great work. Really Clean.

TCO


----------



## thrgk

Do radiators make a large difference? I am debating on the EK 480 XE and EK 480 PE. $30 difference, is it worth it?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> Do radiators make a large difference? I am debating on the EK 480 XE and EK 480 PE. $30 difference, is it worth it?


Someone once told me it's safe to assume that the performance going from a 360 to a 480 is relatively the same across different radiators so here's a 360 radiator round-up: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/ This is with GT AP-15s so I'd adjust for how fast you think you may run your fans and if you're going to do so in push-pull (assuming you're using good fans).


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> Do radiators make a large difference? I am debating on the EK 480 XE and EK 480 PE. $30 difference, is it worth it?


I love my XEs, huge cooling capacity for not allot of rad space. I like my PEs too, but you need more rad space to get equal cooling.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I love my XEs, huge cooling capacity for not allot of rad space. I like my PEs too, but you need more rad space to get equal cooling.


Yeah but $90 vs $123 (PPCs) which he's wondering about. That's 35% additional cost.


----------



## 0xzz

why is the EK-CoolStream CE 280 (Dual) no longer available in the ek shop?? is something wrong with it?


----------



## Realms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Realms, awesome build. Did you know the radiators would fit, or find out in the process that you're wildly lucky when they barely cleared each other?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your previous iteration aged really well by the way.


Thanks mate. It was a bit of a combination of measuring and praying! Worked out well and fit's perfectly. Thanks! the old girl served me well. Was a shame to tear it down but needed a refresh!

Got GTX970ACX block and backplate so will be updating the latest build very soon


----------



## Realms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Anyone else craving Oreos now...? LOL
> 
> Nice upgrade, I'd say everything looks great.
> 
> I wish I had the ability to take niiice photos like that. Cellphone camera and bad lighting don't help my cause I suppose.


Thanks man, good slr camera is a solid investment!


----------



## Realms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @Realms
> 
> Great work. Really Clean.
> 
> TCO


Thanks mate!


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Please do. Seeing as the Strix boards seemed far more like Matrix boards this time around I though maybe they would end up sharing one but I guess not. Provide as much detail as you can please.


Well i compared pcb pics of the 780 Ti Matrix and 980 Ti Matrix and found that they are more similar to each other than the Strix pcb.

Here's how far i've come:



The caps are too high to fit the acetal top. Trying to figure out if there's enough material left to mill deeper atm. If not i'm thinking about cutting the vrm cooling off the block and cool the vrms in an other way.



die makes perfect contact with the block, memory ic's are also perfectly aligned.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> why is the EK-CoolStream CE 280 (Dual) no longer available in the ek shop?? is something wrong with it?


Yea, what's up with that?









https://shop.ekwb.com/radiators-fans/140mm-series-radiators/coolstream-ce-series


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Yea, what's up with that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/radiators-fans/140mm-series-radiators/coolstream-ce-series


i was planning on buying one after new years but now im not so sure...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> why is the EK-CoolStream CE 280 (Dual) no longer available in the ek shop?? is something wrong with it?


It's probably only out if stock for the time being and will become available once we receive new ones.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> i was planning on buying one after new years but now im not so sure...


My CE 280 is mounting right behind these two Vardar 140ERs. Wewt.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3747_zpsguvy7c5d.jpg.html


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Just ordered 16 Vardar F4-120ERs from PPCs. Can't wait to ditch the Gentle Typhoons and go back to all Vardars. Never should have bought those damn GTs!


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Just ordered 16 Vardar F4-120ERs from PPCs. Can't wait to ditch the Gentle Typhoons and go back to all Vardars. Never should have bought those damn GTs!


Never used any GTs, heard alot about them.

I got 6 Vardar F4-120ERs from PPCS and 2 F3-140ERs and using 2 38mm thick Sanyos in my small build. LOVE the Vardar 120ERs so quiet in the low range.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3722_zps5iqvxaud.jpg.html


----------



## aerotracks

Some shots of my daily system

http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_9963-kopiehaquz.jpg

http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_9954-kopieipput.jpg

And some frosty current gen stuff


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Never used any GTs, heard alot about them.
> 
> I got 6 Vardar F4-120ERs from PPCS and 2 F3-140ERs and using 2 38mm thick Sanyos in my small build. LOVE the Vardar 120ERs so quiet in the low range.


I got em because they were all black and voltage controlled. Honestly, my room is so quiet and I can't stand their annoying bearing noise, it's... unbearable. I swapped out half of them with the 8 other Vardars I had previously and at the lowest speed, they're silent. That's the type of silence I want when my PC is idle, not "GT silence".

@aerotracks why you using black tubing with pastel coolant? Seems like a waste XD


----------



## Kimir

Norprene ftw tho.


----------



## aerotracks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Norprene ftw tho.


That's exactly why!









Plus, I don't like maintenance. After 2 years of just distilled water I figured I was pushing it a little, so I bought some concentrate when I got my new case for some peace of mind.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Difference between fast_fate's photos and mine, his have MUCH greater pixel density and sharpness, my phone camera versus his high quality SLR camera.
> 
> Does this mean there's a formal REVO TOP review in the hopper, on the horizon, about to take flight?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> As far as the badges being distracting? One man's distraction is another man's highlight. (zing)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I was the Grand PooBah at EK, I would have titled the new badges nickel and white, not silver, but Anyhoo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a very poor light quality photo taken with 2500K LEDs, but still shows how well the new EK nickel and white badges reflect and bend the light into the sweetest wavelength. (purposely over-embellished)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4652_zpsgqbm0ejo.jpg.html


My camera is old and lens is gaffer taped together to stop it falling apart/and off the camera body









It's in the bin, it has risen and @iBruce we have lift off


----------



## chas1723

My oring came in and it is stop sign shaped just like the original
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Quick question. Where do you but replacement gaskets for the supremacy evo? Mine is leaking after a rebuild.
> 
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> There's one @ Performance PC's...
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/oring-supremacy-evo-mx.html
Click to expand...

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> My oring came in and it is stop sign shaped just like the original
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


Fantastic!









I wonder why they didn't show it that way, on their web page?


----------



## dcatvn

Hi guys, if I want to add another 980 ti to my current built, what are my options to link the 2 cards? The FC terminal?

On the site note, for the sli bridges, does anyone know if I should buy short or normal bridges (I am using asus maximus viii gene).

Thank you so much for your help


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcatvn*
> 
> Hi guys, if I want to add another 980 ti to my current built, what are my options to link the 2 cards? The FC terminal?
> 
> On the site note, for the sli bridges, does anyone know if I should buy short or normal bridges (I am using asus maximus viii gene).
> 
> Thank you so much for your help


I'm using the parallel FC terminal. It adds a lot of rigidity to my SLI setup. No card sag at all. I believe you will need this one for that board...

*EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel*

or the plexi version...

*EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel - Plexi*

Edit: You need the short SLI bridge too I think. (40mm between pci slots) You may want to double check to be sure.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcatvn*
> 
> Hi guys, if I want to add another 980 ti to my current built, what are my options to link the 2 cards? The FC terminal?
> 
> On the site note, for the sli bridges, does anyone know if I should buy short or normal bridges (I am using asus maximus viii gene).
> 
> Thank you so much for your help


like @kl6mk6 pointed out, you will need the EK-FC Terminal DUAL with you board. Available in Serial or Parallel and with the choice of Acetal or Plexi on the finish.


----------



## dervladimir

Hello everyone, which of the Vardar F3 or F4 is best (t°/noise) for XE radiator in low/middle speed?.. for example: 3xF3/F4 intake in low speed and 1/2xF3/F4 exhause in middle/low.


----------



## c0d3man

Custom loop with an FC-980 block on my GTX970


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcatvn*
> 
> Hi guys, if I want to add another 980 ti to my current built, what are my options to link the 2 cards? The FC terminal?
> 
> On the site note, for the sli bridges, does anyone know if I should buy short or normal bridges (I am using asus maximus viii gene).
> 
> Thank you so much for your help


If it is of any help I have done it like this on my Gene VI but the layout is still the same on Gene VIII if I'm not totally wrong










I'm using Asus ROG 2-way bridge in position 2-way-s ( 40mm)


----------



## dcatvn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> If it is of any help I have done it like this on my Gene VI but the layout is still the same on Gene VIII if I'm not totally wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using Asus ROG 2-way bridge in position 2-way-s ( 40mm)


Thank you so much for clear that up for me.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dervladimir*
> 
> Hello everyone, which of the Vardar F3 or F4 is best (t°/noise) for XE radiator in low/middle speed?.. for example: 3xF3/F4 intake in low speed and 1/2xF3/F4 exhause in middle/low.


IIRC they have the same noise to rpm. The F4 is 2200 rpm but 40% low while the F3 is 1850 at 50% low so the F4 can spin at a bit lower rpm (and higher obviously).


----------



## dervladimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> IIRC they have the same noise to rpm. The F4 is 2200 rpm but 40% low while the F3 is 1850 at 50% low so the F4 can spin at a bit lower rpm (and higher obviously).


Thank you for answer, more Q: F3 will be enough for the XE with 16 FPI or better F4?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dervladimir*
> 
> Thank you for answer, more Q: F3 will be enough for the XE with 16 FPI or better F4?


Vardars are very similar to Gentle Typhoons:


Source: http://thermalbench.com/2015/11/12/darkside-gentle-typhoon-1850-pwm-120mm-fan/3/

This review shows a comparison between radiators with Gentle Typhoon AP15s (1850 RPM):

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/

F3 will be fine but might as well just buy the F4 since it can spin a bit slower (less noise).


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcatvn*
> 
> Hi guys, if I want to add another 980 ti to my current built, what are my options to link the 2 cards? The FC terminal?
> 
> On the site note, for the sli bridges, does anyone know if I should buy short or normal bridges (I am using asus maximus viii gene).
> 
> Thank you so much for your help




You dont have to use a bridge like others have mentioned. I personally like tubing better.


----------



## dervladimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> ...but might as well just buy the F4 since it can spin a *bit slower (less noise)*.


Dispelled my doubts, thanks again!


----------



## Tdbeisn554

I am planning on doing my first loop, I really want to buy an EK Xres revo pump/res combo. But I am afraid it wont fit or i will be unable to mount it in my case (Corsair 760T) also will the Xres 3 multi-top and tubes work with this combo??


----------



## funfordcobra

I'm having head pressure problems. I'm running a single d5 through 3 240 rads, 2 gpus, and CPU.when I run the water flow in the recommended flow path, the system pressurised but there was very little to no flow. When I switched the inlet and outlet tubes there was no resistance and flow is normal now even though I'm going in a reverse flow path that I intended and ek recommended.

Can I hook up a stand alone pump inline with my pump+res combo. I don't want to run two loops and was wondering if 2 pumps right after one another would be prudent.

Is it better to just sell my old pump and get the dual d5 pump. It's pretty pricey at 250.. If I can just throw another pump in it would be good.


----------



## DerComissar

Another good review from fast_fate, on the EK-XTOP Revo D5 pump top:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/12/23/ek-xtop-revo-d5-pump-top-review/

Worth a thorough read, it reveals an EK qc issue, with the first retail sample tested in the review.
The testing of different inlet port orientations was a good idea, and it was interesting to see how it compared to the former EK D5 pump tops.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I'm having head pressure problems. I'm running a single d5 through 3 240 rads, 2 gpus, and CPU.when I run the water flow in the recommended flow path, the system pressurised but there was very little to no flow. When I switched the inlet and outlet tubes there was no resistance and flow is normal now even though I'm going in a reverse flow path that I intended and ek recommended.
> 
> Can I hook up a stand alone pump inline with my pump+res combo. I don't want to run two loops and was wondering if 2 pumps right after one another would be prudent.
> 
> Is it better to just sell my old pump and get the dual d5 pump. It's pretty pricey at 250.. If I can just throw another pump in it would be good.


If their is very little to to flow i am thinking there is something wrong with your loop! But i do not understand what you mean by swith inlet and out let tubes!! Need some pictures and drawings!!

But yes you can use another pump inline like you said but i am not sure you need one


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I'm having head pressure problems. I'm running a single d5 through 3 240 rads, 2 gpus, and CPU.when I run the water flow in the recommended flow path, the system pressurised but there was very little to no flow. When I switched the inlet and outlet tubes there was no resistance and flow is normal now even though I'm going in a reverse flow path that I intended and ek recommended.
> 
> Can I hook up a stand alone pump inline with my pump+res combo. I don't want to run two loops and was wondering if 2 pumps right after one another would be prudent.
> 
> Is it better to just sell my old pump and get the dual d5 pump. It's pretty pricey at 250.. If I can just throw another pump in it would be good.


One D5 should be way more than adequate...

I have 1 D5 pushing, 1x 480, 2x 360's, 1x 240, 2x GPU's, VRM's, and the CPU, with 3/8 x 5/8 tubing...

No problem! There are others, who have more that I do, with no problems!

As mentioned before, look at your loop, something's restricting the flow, on the suggested loop order...


----------



## funfordcobra

Yea I'm not sure why either. Basically when I say reverse flow I mean on the CPU block, I'm going in where it says out. Flow is from my pump to the 3 240s, then both GPUS, then finally the cpu.

I tried running from the pump to the CPU, to the two GPUs, then through the rads back to the res but every time I tried, it wouldn't flow properly. That's normal where IN is going IN.

You could actually feel high pressure in the system when I unsealed it to drain. It spurted out like an artery and not just poured out like normal. It filled like normal until it needed to circulate in a closed loop. I tried rerouting tubes, drained and refilled 5 times and still the same thing. Lastly I tried the reverse flow path I just mentioned and everything was fine.

I just couldn't figure out why it would flow one way but not the other. I thought it was head pressure.


----------



## funfordcobra

Sorry for the fast drawing.



The correct path is the way that will not flow, but the opposite path does.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Sorry for the fast drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> The correct path is the way that will not flow, but the opposite path does.


If all you dis was reverse the cpu inlet and out let like tou drawing then you might have pump hooked up wrong???


----------



## funfordcobra

nope pump is hooked up right believe me.


----------



## seross69

Well don't really have enough info to help


----------



## funfordcobra

I thought it was airlocked, but I doubt there would be an airlock after draining and refilling and also changing tubing routing. It feels like there is a one way valve AFTER the system is pressurized.

Like I said when filling everything seems to be ok and doesn't seem like there's a block. Its when I get all the fluid in that the flow stops. I know weird.


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I thought it was airlocked, but I doubt there would be an airlock after draining and refilling and also changing tubing routing. It feels like there is a one way valve AFTER the system is pressurized.
> 
> Like I said when filling everything seems to be ok and doesn't seem like there's a block. Its when I get all the fluid in that the flow stops. I know weird.


I had this same issue once upon a time. Turned out It was a bad pump and I had to replace it.

http://www.overclock.net/t/712790/medreds-watercooled-i7-ice-ice-baby/0_100#post_11387874


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Yea I'm not sure why either. Basically when I say reverse flow I mean on the CPU block, I'm going in where it says out. Flow is from my pump to the 3 240s, then both GPUS, then finally the cpu.
> 
> I tried running from the pump to the CPU, to the two GPUs, then through the rads back to the res but every time I tried, it wouldn't flow properly. That's normal where IN is going IN.
> 
> You could actually feel high pressure in the system when I unsealed it to drain. It spurted out like an artery and not just poured out like normal. It filled like normal until it needed to circulate in a closed loop. I tried rerouting tubes, drained and refilled 5 times and still the same thing. Lastly I tried the reverse flow path I just mentioned and everything was fine.
> 
> I just couldn't figure out why it would flow one way but not the other. I thought it was head pressure.


Did you have the CPU block apart for any reason, like for polishing or something . . . .

Look to see that you have it assembled so that the jet plate is perpendicular to the channels . . . .

You wouldn't be the first one to assemble a CPU block rotated 90* causing a major restriction.

D.


----------



## iBruce

EK X3 white POM res mod.

Just picked up the 64mm sheet metal hole saw to cut the mid-chassis deck so the emerging reservoir mod can move forward.

So the res can be attached to tubing in the lower chamber and just look nice with white LEDs in the upper chamber. Will line the cut hole with CaseLabs U-channel, 2.3mm thick, 60mm res diameter + 4.6mm u-channel = 64.6mm.

The rubber is compressible so all should fit.









Cutting the mod myself, so much easier to cut in the backyard on a 4x4 than to mark and hand off to PPCS.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/41AdoTgVvgL_zpswncsvnmm.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4730_zps52b3zsum.jpg.html


----------



## Kutalion

I got a question about the new Asus X99 monoblocks. Are you supposed to take off the cpu socket? I see no holes in the board, yet the monoblok seems to have screws that are supposed to pass through.
I checked manual, says nothing about removing the socket.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Did you have the CPU block apart for any reason, like for polishing or something . . . .
> 
> Look to see that you have it assembled so that the jet plate is perpendicular to the channels . . . .
> 
> You wouldn't be the first one to assemble a CPU block rotated 90* causing a major restriction.
> 
> D.


Youre right. I think I was the first to incorrectly reassemble my block! I hope that his answer because thats an easy, free fix.


----------



## rsvette12

Nice job Bruce


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I'm having head pressure problems. I'm running a single d5 through 3 240 rads, 2 gpus, and CPU.when I run the water flow in the recommended flow path, the system pressurised but there was very little to no flow. When I switched the inlet and outlet tubes there was no resistance and flow is normal now even though I'm going in a reverse flow path that I intended and ek recommended.
> 
> Can I hook up a stand alone pump inline with my pump+res combo. I don't want to run two loops and was wondering if 2 pumps right after one another would be prudent.
> 
> Is it better to just sell my old pump and get the dual d5 pump. It's pretty pricey at 250.. If I can just throw another pump in it would be good.


Likely you may have reversed your Inlet and Outlet at your CPU block. The fact that reversing your pump flow and things are working better led me to this belief.

~Ceadder


----------



## maybach123

can i get on the list?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maybach123*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can i get on the list?


Absolutely, as soon as you move that woodgrain background to hospital white.

...just kidding.

Welcome to the EK Club.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4350_zpshuip7wfu.jpg.html


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Realms*
> 
> Refreshed my Sandy rig with a new case and some EK goodness.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *System*
> *FROM THIS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *TO THIS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> New Gear*
> 
> EK-XRES with 150 res tube.
> EK D5 Vario pump
> 2x EK CoolStream SE 360 radiators
> 6x Cougar CFD120 fans
> NZXT Grid+ V2 Fan Controller
> EK Supremacy CPU block
> EK Monarch RAM block
> EK HDC 12mm fittings
> EK 90 degree elbows
> EK 12mm PETG rigid tubing
> EK-EKoolant Pastel White
> EVGA SuperNova G2 750w PSU
> Cablemods cables for EVGA G2 PSU
> 
> Pics
> 
> Mmmmmmm shiny
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waterblock fitted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And done!


Nice Build, not sure i like the Revo to me it looks to plastic, much prefer the old square combo they did, im not taking anything away from your build cause i like it,
Dont know why EK changed a already great Res Combo.


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Absolutely, as soon as you move that woodgrain background to hospital white.
> 
> ...just kidding.
> 
> Welcome to the EK Club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry its my temp desk just took the picture in a pinch


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Absolutely, as soon as you move that woodgrain background to hospital white.
> 
> ...just kidding.
> 
> Welcome to the EK Club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4350_zpshuip7wfu.jpg.html


sorry its my temp desk just took the picture in a pinch


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maybach123*
> 
> sorry its my temp desk just took the picture in a pinch


Welcome to the EK Club


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I'm having head pressure problems. I'm running a single d5 through 3 240 rads, 2 gpus, and CPU.when I run the water flow in the recommended flow path, the system pressurised but there was very little to no flow. When I switched the inlet and outlet tubes there was no resistance and flow is normal now even though I'm going in a reverse flow path that I intended and ek recommended.
> 
> Can I hook up a stand alone pump inline with my pump+res combo. I don't want to run two loops and was wondering if 2 pumps right after one another would be prudent.
> 
> Is it better to just sell my old pump and get the dual d5 pump. It's pretty pricey at 250.. If I can just throw another pump in it would be good.


How are you gauging your flow, sensor, paddle wheel, etc.?


----------



## andrej124

Hello everyone!
*
EK is looking for experienced blog writer(s)!* We are launching a new blog in 2016 with emphasis on educational content about liquid cooling and topics around hardware, overclocking and modding.
Please fill out the following form if you want to join EK team!









https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1nhtZt2GpMH_kL_ex2e4tf0tFXrm4grbF9pU_yCFAKMs/viewform


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Likely you may have reversed your Inlet and Outlet at your CPU block. The fact that reversing your pump flow and things are working better led me to this belief.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yea you would think that but its not the case. Originally, the flow went in as labeled on the block. It was how it was originally hooked up and flowed well in my Cosmos 2 case. When I went to caselabs with the same flow path, there was no flow when the system was full. To get flow I had to go against the recommended flow path and go in the reverse way and everything worked. (Flow IN on an block labeled OUT)

So as I stated before, Now I am flowing In where I should be flowing out. It worked before as it is labeled but with the new setup, it doesn't. When I removed the board, GPUS, and CPU it came out in one big chunk with tubes attacked so it would be very hard to get it mixed up especially when it is labeled.

I thought serial GPU flow was holding me back so I switched to parallel with the same results. The PC is fine now and runs very cool but I would like to flow the coolant as labeled and not reverse.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> How are you gauging your flow, sensor, paddle wheel, etc.?


I don't use gauges or anything that would cause further restriction. To me if the PC is running cool then it is flowing. If I'm hitting 40c on idle there's 60c load there's a big problem since originally I idle at 18c and load at 35c.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Anyone know which extender/adapter i would need to use the rear ports on my ek xe rads? I want to put a temp sensor on the rear ports of each rad. I have some 8mm ek extenders currently which i don't think will work. The ones i need are the same extenders/adapters that comes pre installed on the front ports of the rad.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Anyone know which extender/adapter i would need to use the rear ports on my ek xe rads? I want to put a temp sensor on the rear ports of each rad. I have some 8mm ek extenders currently which i don't think will work. The ones i need are the same extenders/adapters that comes pre installed on the front ports of the rad.


https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-black


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> *
> EK is looking for experienced blog writer(s)!* We are launching a new blog in 2016 with emphasis on educational content about liquid cooling and topics around hardware, overclocking and modding.
> Please fill out the following form if you want to join EK team!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1nhtZt2GpMH_kL_ex2e4tf0tFXrm4grbF9pU_yCFAKMs/viewform


Best of luck in your search guys! I'd love to be apart of the EKWB team but unfortunately I have no proper experience for something like this and I wouldn't want my work to reflect poorly on EK if the readers were dissatisfied with the quality of the content.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-black


thats the one i was thinking would work, thanks.


----------



## ivoryg37

Does the Supremacy Evo top fit on the original Supremacy Non-Evo?

I recently got this waterblock in a trade but when I took off the included fittings. I notice some stress fracture so I polished it a little and its more visible since it's not frosted anymore. Would this be safe to use or should I replace the top? Do they still make non Evo supremacy top anywhere?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Does the Supremacy Evo top fit on the original Supremacy Non-Evo?
> 
> I recently got this waterblock in a trade but when I took off the included fittings. I notice some stress fracture so I polished it a little and its more visible since it's not frosted anymore. Would this be safe to use or should I replace the top? Do they still make non Evo supremacy top anywhere?


The metal base is the same but to replace the top you will need all the extra internal insert components too.
An Evo upgrade kit is what you want.

Some retailers might still have stock of Supremacy tops.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Does the Supremacy Evo top fit on the original Supremacy Non-Evo?
> 
> I recently got this waterblock in a trade but when I took off the included fittings. I notice some stress fracture so I polished it a little and its more visible since it's not frosted anymore. Would this be safe to use or should I replace the top? Do they still make non Evo supremacy top anywhere?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The metal base is the same but to replace the top you will need all the extra internal insert components too.
> An Evo upgrade kit is what you want.
> 
> Some retailers might still have stock of Supremacy tops.
Click to expand...

I have an original Supremacy replacement top, it's never been used...

Only bad thing, it's the Red Edition!

[I



Sorry, no EK badge... I used it on another block...

BTW: Why did I post this stuff? I had nothing better to do!


----------



## akira749

Sorry guys I was away during the last days for the Holidays.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archang3l*
> 
> I am planning on doing my first loop, I really want to buy an EK Xres revo pump/res combo. But I am afraid it wont fit or i will be unable to mount it in my case (Corsair 760T) also will the Xres 3 multi-top and tubes work with this combo??


You can always get this mounting bracket to install it on your front rad if you put a rad in the front. EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm FAN)

Yes the multi-top and the tubes for the X3 is compatible with the Revo line.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I'm having head pressure problems. I'm running a single d5 through 3 240 rads, 2 gpus, and CPU.when I run the water flow in the recommended flow path, the system pressurised but there was very little to no flow. When I switched the inlet and outlet tubes there was no resistance and flow is normal now even though I'm going in a reverse flow path that I intended and ek recommended.
> 
> Can I hook up a stand alone pump inline with my pump+res combo. I don't want to run two loops and was wondering if 2 pumps right after one another would be prudent.
> 
> Is it better to just sell my old pump and get the dual d5 pump. It's pretty pricey at 250.. If I can just throw another pump in it would be good.


Did you saw what ITDiva talked about earlier. It might be a possibility.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> I got a question about the new Asus X99 monoblocks. Are you supposed to take off the cpu socket? I see no holes in the board, yet the monoblok seems to have screws that are supposed to pass through.
> I checked manual, says nothing about removing the socket.


I will try to find out about this. Because you're right that some boards like the Asus X99-A don't have the CPU socket holes punched all the way through the PCB.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Anyone know which extender/adapter i would need to use the rear ports on my ek xe rads? I want to put a temp sensor on the rear ports of each rad. I have some 8mm ek extenders currently which i don't think will work. The ones i need are the same extenders/adapters that comes pre installed on the front ports of the rad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-black


This ^^ but also, I would get this allen key (Allen key 9mm) if your rad didn't came with it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Does the Supremacy Evo top fit on the original Supremacy Non-Evo?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I recently got this waterblock in a trade but when I took off the included fittings. I notice some stress fracture so I polished it a little and its more visible since it's not frosted anymore. Would this be safe to use or should I replace the top? Do they still make non Evo supremacy top anywhere?


The internals are different so no they don't fit. Sorry.


----------



## Barefooter

*Help and advise please*

Yesterday I was installing my EK water block and EK backplate onto one of my 980ti Classified cards and ran into a problem I've never seen before.

I first installed the water block and then the backplate, when I realized I forgot to put the last screw/nut onto the I/O panel, I had to take the backplate off because it covers where the screw goes into.

Here's where the problem happened, with backplate facing up, I took out the screws, but one was not coming out. I turn the card on it's side and see pcb board all tweaked. What happened is one of the four screws did not come out of the stand-off, but the stand-off on the water block unscrewed from the block and tweaked my card! I had barely tightened the backplate screws just enough to hold it.



So I use needle nose pliers to hold the stand-off and get the screw out. Then I went to reinstall the stand-off in the waterblock and it breaks off in the water block while hand tightening it!

I was able to get the broken piece out with a jeweler's screw driver. Now I'm scared that my card might be damaged.



Here's my questions:
Can I get another stand-off or do I have to buy another block?

Do you think my card is damaged or will not work properly?

Should I put the air cooler back on the card and test it?

I really can't believe this happened. I have two more cards and waterblock/backplates to go for my "rebuild", but I'm going to hold off until I get the first one squared away.

Thanks for your input.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> *Help and advise please*
> 
> Yesterday I was installing my EK water block and EK backplate onto one of my 980ti Classified cards and ran into a problem I've never seen before.
> 
> I first installed the water block and then the backplate, when I realized I forgot to put the last screw/nut onto the I/O panel, I had to take the backplate off because it covers where the screw goes into.
> 
> Here's where the problem happened, with backplate facing up, I took out the screws, but one was not coming out. I turn the card on it's side and see pcb board all tweaked. What happened is one of the four screws did not come out of the stand-off, but the stand-off on the water block unscrewed from the block and tweaked my card! I had barely tightened the backplate screws just enough to hold it.
> 
> So I use needle nose pliers to hold the stand-off and get the screw out. Then I went to reinstall the stand-off in the waterblock and it breaks off in the water block while hand tightening it!
> 
> I was able to get the broken piece out with a jeweler's screw driver. Now I'm scared that my card might be damaged.
> 
> Here's my questions:
> Can I get another stand-off or do I have to buy another block?
> 
> Do you think my card is damaged or will not work properly?
> 
> Should I put the air cooler back on the card and test it?
> 
> I really can't believe this happened. I have two more cards and waterblock/backplates to go for my "rebuild", but I'm going to hold off until I get the first one squared away.
> 
> Thanks for your input.


You should be able to get a standoff from them (hopefully free of charge). I had a case where one was missing and they offered to send one. Just send an email to EK Support [email protected]


----------



## Tdbeisn554

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Sorry guys I was away during the last days for the Holidays.
> You can always get this mounting bracket to install it on your front rad if you put a rad in the front. EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm FAN)
> 
> Yes the multi-top and the tubes for the X3 is compatible with the Revo line.


Thank you








One more thing, if I use a 204mm X3 tube on the Revo pump/res combo will the pump mount be enough? Or do I need another mounting thing to hold the tube in place?
I am a bit afraid the reservoir will move or even fall. But I have no idea.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> I got a question about the new Asus X99 monoblocks. Are you supposed to take off the cpu socket? I see no holes in the board, yet the monoblok seems to have screws that are supposed to pass through.
> I checked manual, says nothing about removing the socket.


I received an information! Even if the board looks to have the socket holes not drilled through the PCB, they actually are but they are covered with some insulation. So you only need to punch this insulation and you will be good to install the Monoblock.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> *Help and advise please*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday I was installing my EK water block and EK backplate onto one of my 980ti Classified cards and ran into a problem I've never seen before.
> 
> I first installed the water block and then the backplate, when I realized I forgot to put the last screw/nut onto the I/O panel, I had to take the backplate off because it covers where the screw goes into.
> 
> Here's where the problem happened, with backplate facing up, I took out the screws, but one was not coming out. I turn the card on it's side and see pcb board all tweaked. What happened is one of the four screws did not come out of the stand-off, but the stand-off on the water block unscrewed from the block and tweaked my card! I had barely tightened the backplate screws just enough to hold it.
> 
> 
> 
> So I use needle nose pliers to hold the stand-off and get the screw out. Then I went to reinstall the stand-off in the waterblock and it breaks off in the water block while hand tightening it!
> 
> I was able to get the broken piece out with a jeweler's screw driver. Now I'm scared that my card might be damaged.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my questions:
> Can I get another stand-off or do I have to buy another block?
> 
> Do you think my card is damaged or will not work properly?
> 
> Should I put the air cooler back on the card and test it?
> 
> I really can't believe this happened. I have two more cards and waterblock/backplates to go for my "rebuild", but I'm going to hold off until I get the first one squared away.
> 
> Thanks for your input.


Damn









Yes you can open a ticket (https://ekwb.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new) and we will send you the standoffs.

One thing for sure is that I would re-install the aircooler and run some tests to make sure that everything is fine with your card.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archang3l*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more thing, if I use a 204mm X3 tube on the Revo pump/res combo will the pump mount be enough? Or do I need another mounting thing to hold the tube in place?
> I am a bit afraid the reservoir will move or even fall. But I have no idea.


No, the mounting bracket is strong enough to withstand it.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> *Help and advise please*
> 
> Yesterday I was installing my EK water block and EK backplate onto one of my 980ti Classified cards and ran into a problem I've never seen before.
> 
> I first installed the water block and then the backplate, when I realized I forgot to put the last screw/nut onto the I/O panel, I had to take the backplate off because it covers where the screw goes into.
> 
> Here's where the problem happened, with backplate facing up, I took out the screws, but one was not coming out. I turn the card on it's side and see pcb board all tweaked. What happened is one of the four screws did not come out of the stand-off, but the stand-off on the water block unscrewed from the block and tweaked my card! I had barely tightened the backplate screws just enough to hold it.
> 
> 
> 
> So I use needle nose pliers to hold the stand-off and get the screw out. Then I went to reinstall the stand-off in the waterblock and it breaks off in the water block while hand tightening it!
> 
> I was able to get the broken piece out with a jeweler's screw driver. Now I'm scared that my card might be damaged.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my questions:
> Can I get another stand-off or do I have to buy another block?
> 
> Do you think my card is damaged or will not work properly?
> 
> Should I put the air cooler back on the card and test it?
> 
> I really can't believe this happened. I have two more cards and waterblock/backplates to go for my "rebuild", but I'm going to hold off until I get the first one squared away.
> 
> Thanks for your input.


Check to see if the PCB is cracked...

If not, you probably have a good card yet.

But, to make sure, you could test it out with the stock cooler, while you wait for your stand-off.

I know that's what I would do!


----------



## Ceadderman

Only other thought I had regarding your issue FFC, is that you may well have a bockage in one of your Rads. When flow is normal, it pushes debris into the inlet side to create a blockage. When your flow is reversed, it pushes the debris out into the tank and flows normally. You might at least check for that.









~Ceadder


----------



## iBruce

Ordered the U-Channel aluminum sheet liner from the CaseLabs store.









http://www.caselabs-store.com/rubber-u-channel/ This build is finally coming together, I can really feel it.

1) cut 64mm round hole in midchassis deck (red circle)

2) line 64mm hole with CaseLabs rubber U-Channel liner to match corresponding adjacent aesthetically coordinated oblong cable passthrough aperature, right next to it. (red arrow)

The lower portion of the X3 cylinder will be encircled by 15 white LEDs with brightness adjustable from an Aquaero 6 LT, shining up through the EK swirling coolant. All cables and tubing runs to and from the X3 res will be hidden in the lower S8S chamber along with an EK D5 REVO plexi pump top D5 pump and an EK XE 240mm rad with 4 EK 120ER Vardars in Push Pull PWM. So the portion of the res featured in the upper chamber will only be the clear cylinder tube, the white LEDs white POM res top and the clear illuminated cyclonic fluid to keep things interesting.

The warm used radiator air from the 240XE rad will exit out the rear of the lower left chamber via another (5th) Vardar 120ER PWM fan autonomously, providing zero thermal effect to other components within the build. That used air may warm the sheet aluminum a bit as it bumps into the midchassis center, but then is quickly redirected by simple vacuum via the rear 120mm exhaust.

Go Physics!

Hoping by my calculations the CaseLabs U-Channel liner will be snug enough and compressible enough to support the EK X3 reservoir filled with fluid all by itself.

If NOT, the soft tubing leading to the pump top below can add some support if cut correctly to length and if that doesn't work, there's always Gorilla Tape.









...guess I should begin a build log and stop cluttering up the EK Club thread.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/uchannel_zpsw9rb6hfa.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...671.1351121269.1280.1280_zpskf6vhuy2.jpg.html


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered the U-Channel aluminum sheet liner from the CaseLabs store.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/rubber-u-channel/ This build is finally coming together, I can really feel it.
> 
> 1) cut 64mm round hole in midchassis deck (red circle)
> 
> 2) line 64mm hole with CaseLabs rubber U-Channel liner to match corresponding adjacent aesthetically coordinated oblong cable passthrough aperature, right next to it. (red arrow)
> 
> The lower portion of the X3 cylinder will be encircled by 15 white LEDs with brightness adjustable from an Aquaero 6 LT, shining up through the EK swirling coolant. All cables and tubing runs to and from the X3 res will be hidden in the lower S8S chamber along with an EK D5 REVO plexi pump top D5 pump and an EK XE 240mm rad with 4 EK 120ER Vardars in Push Pull PWM. So the portion of the res featured in the upper chamber will only be the clear cylinder tube, the white LEDs white POM res top and the clear illuminated cyclonic fluid to keep things interesting.
> 
> The warm used radiator air from the 240XE rad will exit out the rear of the lower left chamber via another (5th) Vardar 120ER PWM fan autonomously, providing zero thermal effect to other components within the build. That used air may warm the sheet aluminum a bit as it bumps into the midchassis center, but then is quickly redirected by simple vacuum via the rear 120mm exhaust.
> 
> Go Physics!
> 
> Hoping by my calculations the CaseLabs U-Channel liner will be snug enough and compressible enough to support the EK X3 reservoir filled with fluid all by itself.
> 
> If NOT, the soft tubing leading to the pump top below can add some support if cut correctly to length and if that doesn't work, there's always Gorilla Tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...guess I should begin a build log and stop cluttering up the EK Club thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/uchannel_zpsw9rb6hfa.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...671.1351121269.1280.1280_zpskf6vhuy2.jpg.html


A separate build log!
That would be a marvelous idea!










Perhaps in this thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1579707/s8s-build-log


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> A separate build log!
> That would be a marvelous idea!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps in this thread:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1579707/s8s-build-log


I've liked you from the beginning DerComissar, really I have since early February March 2015, awesome contributor you are.

But is that a bad joke or black comedy?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> A separate build log!
> That would be a marvelous idea!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps in this thread:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1579707/s8s-build-log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've liked you from the beginning DerComissar, really I have since early February March 2015, awesome contributor you are.
> 
> But is that a bad joke or black comedy?
Click to expand...

Both actually!








And only to be taken as such!
But seriously, you have been posting absolutely marvelous photos, and updates to your build, I've really enjoyed following them.
I couldn't begin to put together a build log of this quality.
But, I'm getting dizzy seeing them all over, and would love to see it all come together in one dedicated build log.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Both actually!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And only to be taken as such!
> But seriously, you have been posting absolutely marvelous photos, and updates to your build, I've really enjoyed following them.
> I couldn't begin to put together a build log of this quality.
> But, I'm getting dizzy seeing them all over, and would love to see it all come together in one dedicated build log.


yes. post 13435 could have easily and popularly fit into a CaseLabs forum post.

find me a home.









This build deserves a life.


.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Only other thought I had regarding your issue FFC, is that you may well have a bockage in one of your Rads. When flow is normal, it pushes debris into the inlet side to create a blockage. When your flow is reversed, it pushes the debris out into the tank and flows normally. You might at least check for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yea that sounds like the only thing possible. I'm not sure what debris could be large enough to be trapped. The loop is new and I've never seen any particles in my res. I'll check it out next time I have to take my loop apart and just leave it flowing reverse since its technically working as long as there is no cause for dmg.


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Yea that sounds like the only thing possible. I'm not sure what debris could be large enough to be trapped. The loop is new and I've never seen any particles in my res. I'll check it out next time I have to take my loop apart and just leave it flowing reverse since its technically working as long as there is no cause for dmg.


Did you see my post? My issue sounds exactly like what you're experiencing.


----------



## jeryko87

Hello guys, i posted this in an individual thread but maybe it would be better in her:

I have a small (although rather loud







) issue with my build. Just hooked up 12 EK Vardar F4 120ER fans to 2 EK Coolstream PE rads and set them nice and snug in a corsair 900D case.
The problem i'm facing is that although each fan sounded normal when powered up while in hand (no abnormal motor noise or anything) the whole assembly now sounds real loud when powered up in the case. It's like the whole case is vibrating.
Did any of you encounter this issue? I've tried everyting from 900 rpm to 1500... no joy.


----------



## VSG

Feel for any actual vibration. I had some in the bottom of the 900D when I had hooked up a fat rad and 6 fans (not EK) to those two thin rails, and I ended up having to add some vibration dampening foam around the rails which helped.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> Did you see my post? My issue sounds exactly like what you're experiencing.


Yep I just read the whole thing thanks. Our problem sounds very similar. My question is why will my pump flow from my gpus to my CPU just fine but if I go to my CPU first there is no flow. It's weird but only thing I can possibly think of is weird blockage or a bad pump. It's only a few months old..


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> Did you see my post? My issue sounds exactly like what you're experiencing.
> 
> 
> 
> Yep I just read the whole thing thanks. Our problem sounds very similar. My question is why will my pump flow from my gpus to my CPU just fine but if I go to my CPU first there is no flow. It's weird but only thing I can possibly think of is weird blockage or a bad pump. It's only a few months old..
Click to expand...

If it works fine one way, and not the other, you need to see what seems like it's working like a check valve.

What fittings do you swap to change the way you plumb it up for one flow direction versus the other flow direction?

Some fittings have a thread length of about 8mm, whereas most have a thread length of about 5mm.

If you put a long thread in some blocks, the end of the fitting is almost right up against the next internal surface, cutting off almost all flow.

Eventually, you'll find the gremlin and facepalm over how you've been missing it all along.

At this point, I'd think about draining the loop and disconnecting the pump and blow into each of the lines and see if you feel way more backpressure from one than the other.

Some pics wouldn't hurt either . . .

You wouldn't be the first one to have something amiss, that someone spotted from a pic.

D.


----------



## funfordcobra

OK thanks. That seems right because this setup worked fine in my cosmos ii then when I switched to caselabs, the flow problem started.

If you see anything that looks wrong let me know please. I only used 4 sharp 90s. 2 at the pump with spacers and 2 at the top connecting the top 2 rads.








So looking at the full view of the pump, it will flow fine going to the gpus, cpu, then rads back to the pump but running to the cpu, gpus, then rads back to the pump does not..

At the moment I'm going against labeled flow.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

My 16 Vardar ERs arrived yesterday. Going to open the box in a few hours. Can't wait to install them tomorrow and get rid of these annoying GTs.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> My 16 Vardar ERs arrived yesterday. Going to open the box in a few hours. Can't wait to install them tomorrow and get rid of these annoying GTs.


I love the GT ap15's. Great quite fan to me but everyone one hears different


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I love the GT ap15's. Great quite fan to me but everyone one hears different


At low RPMs, they are way louder than my Vardars (1850 at 0% PWM which I think is like 700 RPM IIRC from SpeedFan). That bearing noise from the GTs is unbearable but at higher RPMs they do seem a lot quieter. At that point though it's almost useless since I'm 99% of the time playing a game and have headphones on...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> At low RPMs, they are way louder than my Vardars (1850 at 0% PWM which I think is like 700 RPM IIRC from SpeedFan). That bearing noise from the GTs is unbearable but at higher RPMs they do seem a lot quieter. At that point though it's almost useless since I'm 99% of the time playing a game and have headphones on...


Was not criticism, i just think it is funny how everyones hear is a little different!!! I have not tried the varders but to me rhe ap15's are quite all the way theough the speed range. Gonna have to get a few varders and tey them


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Was not criticism, i just think it is funny how everyones hear is a little different!!! I have not tried the varders but to me rhe ap15's are quite all the way theough the speed range. Gonna have to get a few varders and tey them


Didn't think it was criticism, was just voicing my complaint. I've had them for a few months now and I've been watching a lot of TV shows on my PC (since I use a 40" Samsung 4K as a monitor) and the GTs are god damn annoying. I watch a lot of dramas so there's always this terrible background noise coming from the PC ruining any of the quiet moments. Sometimes I shut most of them off because the noise is so aggravating. Luckily I only sold 8 of my previous Vardars so I was able to put the other 8 back in. Now I can shut off the 8 remaining GTs while keeping the Vardars at ~700 RPM and be happy. They're just so ugly with the black and grey (my GTs are the all black ones) but I got the ERs now that are all black so I get to be happy with the noise *and* the looks.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> OK thanks. That seems right because this setup worked fine in my cosmos ii then when I switched to caselabs, the flow problem started.
> 
> If you see anything that looks wrong let me know please. I only used 4 sharp 90s. 2 at the pump with spacers and 2 at the top connecting the top 2 rads.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So looking at the full view of the pump, it will flow fine going to the gpus, cpu, then rads back to the pump but running to the cpu, gpus, then rads back to the pump does not..
> 
> At the moment I'm going against labeled flow.


What's that fitting in the run from the pumps to the GPUs?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> My 16 Vardar ERs arrived yesterday. Going to open the box in a few hours. Can't wait to install them tomorrow and get rid of these annoying GTs.


Congratulations , I love my (6) Vardar F4 120ERs. Here's the duty cycle I measured from a single Aquaero 6 channel.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/Untitled 2200_zpszpwddgjh.png.html

And something interesting, we were discussing in the EK forum the difficulty tucking away and hiding the thick sleeving on the all-black Vardar ERs when using say (4) in Push Pull from a single EK XE 240 rad and someone suggested they preferred simple black wires as opposed to black sleeving and heat shrink.

So I performed a little surgery on one of mine with positive results. The cabling underneath the sleeving being solid black gives the customer the choice of the sleeving aesthetic if they prefer OR simple easy to manage black wiring underneath if space is a restriction in a non-visible area of the build.

I think its a great idea going with the black wiring underneath, going to use this method in a lower chamber (5) Vardars to a single PWM channel for easier cable management.

This is the mess of sleeving you are left with and the before and after.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> What's that fitting in the run from the pumps to the GPUs?


I'd guess a block style T splitter like so: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-af-t-splitter-3f-g1-4-black


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Congratulations , I love my (6) Vardar F4 120ERs. Here's the duty cycle I measured from a single Aquaero 6 channel.


300 is so ridiculously low idk why they ever designed them like that. At 700 or so with my F3s I can't tell the difference when they're on or off. I really just bought them because they're all black lol.

I almost wanted to just get 140s and switch to 420 radiators and mod my chassis but I'm so sick of wasting time on this build. Idk how you modders and hard tubing users do it. Must have a lot of free time on your hands.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> 300 is so ridiculously low idk why they ever designed them like that. At 700 or so with my F3s I can't tell the difference when they're on or off. I really just bought them because they're all black lol.
> 
> I almost wanted to just get 140s and switch to 420 radiators and mod my chassis but I'm so sick of wasting time on this build. *Idk how you modders and hard tubing users do it*. Must have a lot of free time on your hands.


Umm, well it helps to have an already fast quiet functioning rig up and running and then get into the mindset that you're building your new primary rig "in the background" while you work. That's how I find the patience.

Started my current build February 2015 so I think I may hold the all time world record for extremely slow builds, I'm not proud of it but all my parts are new for 2015, which I wanted.









How is an Aquaero 6 XT new for 2015? Blue LED version. That was good enough to meet my loosely-based criteria.









.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> What's that fitting in the run from the pumps to the GPUs?


That's just a 4 way splitter with 2 plugs. I intended on running a plug type water temp sensor on one of those unused ports.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> That's just a 4 way splitter with 2 plugs. I intended on running a plug type water temp sensor on one of those unused ports.


I was close enough! XD


----------



## Basiletech

I want to join!
EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal+Nickel

EK-FC980 GTX WF3 - Nickel

Also, I have a couple EK Vadar fans
And I only use Ek blocks in my clients builds


----------



## Tdbeisn554

So I have another question, about the EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP. Under enclosed it says 3 EK plugs inclosed But I am only planning to use 1 port as inlet, I probably need another plug but does it matter which one?
And is an internal tube recommended? Why and which size? I probably use a 204mm EK reservoir. Internal tube sizes are: 40mm, 140mm and 200mm.
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-200mm


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> I want to join!
> EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal+Nickel
> 
> EK-FC980 GTX WF3 - Nickel
> 
> Also, I have a couple EK Vadar fans
> And I only use Ek blocks in my clients builds


You only have to purchase one Vardar fan to become a member, hurry take one back.

just kidding.

Who in their right mind could only buy one Vardar anyways?


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> 300 is so ridiculously low idk why they ever designed them like that. At 700 or so with my F3s I can't tell the difference when they're on or off. I really just bought them because they're all black lol.
> 
> I almost wanted to just get 140s and switch to 420 radiators and mod my chassis but I'm so sick of wasting time on this build. Idk how you modders and hard tubing users do it. *Must have a lot of free time on your hands*.
> 
> 
> 
> Umm, well it helps to have an already fast quiet functioning rig up and running and then get into the mindset that you're building your new primary rig "in the background" while you work. That's how I find the patience.
Click to expand...

This, a back up build makes things much easier.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> This, a back up build makes things much easier.


But what if you're the kind of person who has a main rig with SLI $600+ video cards, $400+ CPU, $300 mobo, etc. I could see if the PC was outdated... Maybe we all need to be rich like that guy Bashaa or Vega who bought like 8 Titan X when they first came out lol.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> This, a back up build makes things much easier.


A backup build changes everything, your entire building life, especially the ability to watch Star Trek movies while working on your new primary rig.









Seriously, great for testing every new component as it arrives, before moving it into the new rig.

This is my back up build, new open air case, new EK cooling, but very old platform parts. M5E 3770K ddr3 2133 the Corsair old Dominator Red memory Corsair AX860 PSU from 2012.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3695_zpsvaubtccn.jpg.html


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

I can finally enjoy the sweet sound of silence once more!


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> 
> 
> I can finally enjoy the sweet sound of silence once more!


Holy MOther of God.









A wall of Vardars. you are my new best friend.

I can't top that photo.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Holy MOther of God.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wall of Vardars. you are my new best friend.
> 
> I can't top that photo.


Pfft, you shoulda seen my Trump wall of AP-14s:

http://www.overclock.net/t/807428/official-scythe-gentletyphoon-club/2700_20#post_23968364


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Pfft, you shoulda seen my Trump wall of AP-14s:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/807428/official-scythe-gentletyphoon-club/2700_20#post_23968364


Good God Man, have you gone insane?

Your Trump Wall doesn't seem to have a nice big door.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Good God Man, have you gone insane?
> 
> Your Trump Wall doesn't seem to have a nice big door.


Got 38 for $400 shipped lol. Gotta love people strapped for cash. I almost used them until I tried 1 on the radiator and didn't like the noise. Then I stupidly went on to buy 16 of the black GTs later on and have the same complaint. So now I'm back at square one!


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> I want to join!
> EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal+Nickel
> 
> EK-FC980 GTX WF3 - Nickel
> 
> Also, I have a couple EK Vadar fans
> And I only use Ek blocks in my clients builds










Got some pictures for proof?


----------



## Ceadderman

FFC, I see the issue... I think. If you have a 90* rotary on the outlet, change that out with one of your multi 90* rotaries and see if that solves the problem. It's not recommended to run a 90* directly off the pump outlet.









If it still persists, it could be that you have some solder or flux that has worked its way free clogging your Radiator. I would check the blocks for Nickelplate failure. That stuff can clog you up purdy good.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> 300 is so ridiculously low idk why they ever designed them like that. At 700 or so with my F3s I can't tell the difference when they're on or off. I really just bought them because they're all black lol.
> 
> I almost wanted to just get 140s and switch to 420 radiators and mod my chassis *but I'm so sick of wasting time on this build*. Idk how you modders and hard tubing users do it. Must have a lot of free time on your hands.


That's not the right attitude for starters.

TCO


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got some pictures for proof?


Yea I got some proof


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> You only have to purchase one Vardar fan to become a member, hurry take one back.
> 
> just kidding.
> 
> Who in their right mind could only buy one Vardar anyways?


who in their right mind would only buy one!!!


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> You only have to purchase one Vardar fan to become a member, hurry take one back.
> 
> just kidding.
> 
> Who in their right mind could only buy one Vardar anyways?


Also my fan is in push-pull and micro center only had corsair fans but my Vadar is under the rad


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> Yea I got some proof
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Certainly looks good! But, you'll have to wait for the starter of the thread to include you...


----------



## funfordcobra

I think the vardars are just awesome. ive gone through soo many fans and these are the best and cheaper than some. I run mine at 20% and they are the ff5s recommended 45%+.


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Certainly looks good! But, you'll have to wait for the starter of the thread to include you...


Thanks I would love to join! Forget what I just said if you saw it I misinterpreted what you were saying


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I think the vardars are just awesome. ive gone through soo many fans and these are the best and cheaper than some. I run mine at 20% and they are the ff5s recommended 45%+.


Yea they come at a premium with out the Noctua fan cost! they are truly amazing. Best fans I've used so far. Not bland like the Noctua fans but a simple color and easy for me to paint the fan blades!


----------



## lilchronic

I know it's upside down but im fine with it. that's just the way my pump is flowing.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







and need to get better/more screws for the fans. Kinda wish they came with the EK Vardar 120 F4's, like the corsair sp120 2350rpm did.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archang3l*
> 
> So I have another question, about the EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP. Under enclosed it says 3 EK plugs inclosed But I am only planning to use 1 port as inlet, I probably need another plug but does it matter which one?
> And is an internal tube recommended? Why and which size? I probably use a 204mm EK reservoir. Internal tube sizes are: 40mm, 140mm and 200mm.
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-200mm


Yes, you'll need another one, they're really cheap though.

The internal tubes are necessary because if you don't use them you'll have a waterfall effect in the res, which causes extra noise and can cause air bubbles the keep forming and circulating.

And length that fits in your res will work, though 40mm is probably enough if you keep your res topped off properly.


----------



## Chuwey

EKWB-STRIX 970 SLI


----------



## 0xzz

Is the enclosed tube here the same one as this???


----------



## Tdbeisn554

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> Is the enclosed tube here the same one as this???


Yes it is, the X3 series is fully compatible with the revo series. At least that is what I was told from EK


----------



## Koplari

Howdy!

New user from Finland and first post to Overclock.net.

I bought parts for new computer and decided to to go with water cooling. Never build a loop so I had to browse alot to learn all the tricks and find proper parts.
I decided to go with EK on all, except reservoir (Phobya Balancer 250).

I bought M8G monoblock for Asus Maximus VIII Gene and noticed something odd.I was trying to install the block with D5 Revo PWM-cable attached to motherboard W_PUMP-connector, but the monoblock doesn´t fit. W_PUMP-connector is right under where the monoblock is supposed to go and the block "floats" on the connector. Few pictures:







So, how do i solve this problem? Or should EK had it solved for me when designing the block?


----------



## Dagamus NM

A quick google images search just confirmed that to use this block you lose that fan header. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.


----------



## lilchronic

@Koplari when i do that i just flag my self saying please delete double post or in you case triple.







Or you can just PM a mod to delete it for you.


----------



## HowHardCanItBe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koplari*
> 
> Howdy!
> 
> New user from Finland and first post to Overclock.net.
> 
> I bought parts for new computer and decided to to go with water cooling. Never build a loop so I had to browse alot to learn all the tricks and find proper parts.
> I decided to go with EK on all, except reservoir (Phobya Balancer 250).
> 
> I bought M8G monoblock for Asus Maximus VIII Gene and noticed something odd.I was trying to install the block with D5 Revo PWM-cable attached to motherboard W_PUMP-connector, but the monoblock doesn´t fit. W_PUMP-connector is right under where the monoblock is supposed to go and the block "floats" on the connector. Few pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, how do i solve this problem? Or should EK had it solved for me when designing the block?


Try now


----------



## Koplari

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> A quick google images search just confirmed that to use this block you lose that fan header. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.


I did alot of research and didn't notice anything like this. Well... *****...

EK doesn't mention it on their website, in Configurator or in installation manual, which I downloaded from their site. If you have enough knowledge about the motherboard, you could figure it out from installation manual by looking at the pics, but i think very few would notice it. Well done EK! All they would had to do is to cut a little notch right at the edge and it would fit.

I guess I have to do some soldering or find flat 90 degree 4-pin connector. Or I could bend those pins facing up and use single pin connectors, there's only 2 pins connected.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> @Koplari when i do that i just flag my self saying please delete double post or in you case triple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can just PM a mod to delete it for you.


Thanks, just did that.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koplari*
> 
> I did alot of research and didn't notice anything like this. Well... *****...
> 
> EK doesn't mention it on their website, in Configurator or in installation manual, which I downloaded from their site. If you have enough knowledge about the motherboard, you could figure it out from installation manual by looking at the pics, but i think very few would notice it. Well done EK! All they would had to do is to cut a little notch right at the edge and it would fit.
> 
> I guess i have to do some soldering or find flat 90 degree 4-pin connector. Or i could bend those pins facing up and use single pin connectors, there's only 2 pins connected.
> Thanks, just did that.


I dont think i would bend any pins on the mother board . Use one of the spare cpu fan headers it should be PMW


----------



## Koplari

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I dont think i would bend any pins on the mother board . Use one of the spare cpu fan headers it should be PMW


I try to use the W_PUMP-header, will figure some way. What I read, it's not very different from normal PWM-connector. It only has better support in BIOS/OS.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koplari*
> 
> Howdy!
> 
> New user from Finland and first post to Overclock.net.
> 
> I bought parts for new computer and decided to to go with water cooling. Never build a loop so I had to browse alot to learn all the tricks and find proper parts.
> I decided to go with EK on all, except reservoir (Phobya Balancer 250).
> 
> I bought M8G monoblock for Asus Maximus VIII Gene and noticed something odd.I was trying to install the block with D5 Revo PWM-cable attached to motherboard W_PUMP-connector, but the monoblock doesn´t fit. W_PUMP-connector is right under where the monoblock is supposed to go and the block "floats" on the connector. Few pictures:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, how do i solve this problem? Or should EK had it solved for me when designing the block?


I had another type of problem with an EK full board block. It was for an Asus M6E. My top GPU with Aquacomputer Kryographics R9 290X waterblock and backplate wouldn't fit into the first PCIe slot. There was nor enough clearance between the board block and the GPU backplate and the back of the card wouldn't sit down all the way because the board block was too high... BUMMER!!!

Check out how close the block is to the first PCIe slot, NO WAY was my GPU Block going to fit there!!

Next, check out the back of the slot, and where the back of the GPU goes over the board block. The GPU doesn't go all of the way down into the slot!!!



So what I did was, I sold the M6E and graduated to a M7F. I guess everything turned out for the better. The M7F comes with water cooling for the VRM's...


----------



## Radnad

I love EK, but is it just me or do they seem to be making a lot of blunders lately...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Like what? Not making making their blocks compatible with other brands? Well that's a two way street. Covering a fan header? Well why did Asus put it so close to the socket, and directly in between the cpu and vrm mount points. If you want a full board block for it, it is the only way to do it.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Like what? Not making making their blocks compatible with other brands? Well that's a two way street. Covering a fan header? Well why did Asus put it so close to the socket, and directly in between the cpu and vrm mount points. If you want a full board block for it, it is the only way to do it.


EK is the "aftermarket" vendor, so its their job to make sure their products are compatible with what comes first, which is the hardware. Asus doesn't call EK and say "hey where can we put our fan header so it doesn't interfere with your block". No disrepect at all Jak, just calling it like I see it.

Since you asked, how about the Vardar fan noise issue, and the GPU block issue (can't remember which one, but people were having to dremel the block because supposedly the PCB was changed after EK had made the block. I know it technically wasn't EK's fault, but I remember seeing several posts were people weren't happy with EK's response). They also made an unnecessary SSD block just because intel asks instead of other products that the community wants, and don't tell me they "need" it, if they did then intel would have included it, and the radiator screw QC issue not too long ago that was causing leaks as well.

Don't get me wrong, I love EK and use them and will continue to use them, but at some point these things start to add up and the average consumer starts to get wary. As an EK fan, I don't want to get wary, so maybe this is my way of throwing up a red flag to them...


----------



## Koplari

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Like what? Not making making their blocks compatible with other brands? Well that's a two way street. Covering a fan header? Well why did Asus put it so close to the socket, and directly in between the cpu and vrm mount points. If you want a full board block for it, it is the only way to do it.


M8G monoblock fits 3 Asus Maximus VIII boards; Gene, Ranger and Hero. On Ranger and Hero, the W_PUMP header is right at the top of the board, so M8G won´t block it. No pun intended.








But on Gene, header sits right under the monoblock. If you look these pictures, you see that where the header is, there´s nothing to cool. Just 2 standoffs for securing the monoblock to motherboard. If I had designed that block, i would just simply made a little recess to fit the cable.

Upper right corner


Upper left corner


As EK is doing business in water cooling, would it be nice for them to support all of the functions in motherboard, including it´s water cooling pump header? First water pump header in motherboards. It´s not Asus who has to think where to put those headers, it´s EK who has to use their head when designing after market parts.

M8G is not fully compatible with Gene.

(Sry for my English, not an native writer)


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koplari*
> 
> M8G monoblock fits 3 Asus Maximus VIII boards; Gene, Ranger and Hero. On Ranger and Hero, the W_PUMP header is right at the top of the board, so M8G won´t block it. No pun intended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But on Gene, header sits right under the monoblock. If you look these pictures, you see that where the header is, there´s nothing to cool. Just 2 standoffs for securing the monoblock to motherboard. If I had designed that block, i would just simply made a little recess to fit the cable.
> 
> Upper right corner
> 
> 
> Upper left corner
> 
> 
> As EK is doing business in water cooling, would it be nice for them to support all of the functions in motherboard, including it´s water cooling pump header? First water pump header in motherboards. It´s not Asus who has to think where to put those headers, it´s EK who has to use their head when designing after market parts.
> 
> M8G is not fully compatible with Gene.
> 
> (Sry for my English, not an native writer)


A "little recess" would actually be a large slot between the two mount points making the resulting arms being very thin and subject to bending.
As you say the block is designed for several boards. That header is exactly why the Bitspower viii hero blocks won't fit the gene.

The W pump header is nothing more than a PWM header just like all the others on the board. It provides the same power as the CPU header. Its just a label.


----------



## Koplari

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> A "little recess" would actually be a large slot between the two mount points making the resulting arms being very thin and subject to bending.
> As you say the block is designed for several boards. That header is exactly why the Bitspower viii hero blocks won't fit the gene.
> 
> The W pump header is nothing more than a PWM header just like all the others on the board. It provides the same power as the CPU header. Its just a label.


That thing is about 11mm thick (almost 1/2"), not bending so easily. CPU would get the same clamping force with "little recess", VRM almost the same. As VRM uses thermal pads, it wouldn´t be a problem.
As for the water pump header, i know it is just another PWM header, almost. Haven´t figured out yet what the differences are.

But it´s all the same, pointings obvious things here doesn´t help at all. I´m going to attach Revos PWM cable to CPU_OPT header.
I would like to hear EK´s side on this one. I hear that their PR is not so kind when people are pointing obvious things about their products.

And in the end, i will still continue using their parts, fittings, pumps etcetc. But this is last monoblock for me.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koplari*
> 
> That thing is about 11mm thick (almost 1/2"), not bending so easily. CPU would get the same clamping force with "little recess", VRM almost the same. As VRM uses thermal pads, it wouldn´t be a problem.
> As for the water pump header, i know it is just another PWM header, almost. Haven´t figured out yet what the differences are.
> 
> But it´s all the same, pointings obvious things here doesn´t help at all. I´m going to attach Revos PWM cable to CPU_OPT header.
> I would like to hear EK´s side on this one. I hear that their PR is not so kind when people are pointing obvious things about their products.
> 
> And in the end, i will still continue using their parts, fittings, pumps etcetc. But this is last monoblock for me.


The metal part is not that thick is it. Simply claiming it will get the same clamping doesn't make it so. That is not point though. By compromising the stiffness of the metal plate it transfers load to the plastic section and guess what, Acrylic doesn't like that, the block could crack catastrophically.

If the W pump is really that psychologically important that it must be used because Asus labeled it that way then you could always use a cut down fan connector.


----------



## Koplari

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The metal part is not that thick is it. Simply claiming it will get the same clamping doesn't make it so. That is not point though. By compromising the stiffness of the metal plate it transfers load to the plastic section and guess what, Acrylic doesn't like that, the block could crack catastrophically.
> 
> If the W pump is really that psychologically important that it must be used because Asus labeled it that way then you could always use a cut down fan connector.


Just measured it, it´s 4mm metal + 10mm acetal. I could machine that recess myself, got machines to work with and I´m confident it would hold just fine. But I´m not going to do it, I like my parts new and shiny. And warranty would be a problem.

Using that water pump header is not important to me, I just like use all of the features that those guys in Asus marketing so much brag about. When i was buying this board, I knew it isn´t some miracle header which drops your temps several degrees. I suspected it would something similar to PWM header, with a twist. And I was right, not sure about that twist yet.


----------



## Rahldrac

Did I miss the post that was suppose to be written about the Signalkuppe? Or was it delayed?


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Did I miss the post that was suppose to be written about the Signalkuppe? Or was it delayed?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1581215/learn-about-ascendancy/30#post_24722128

More info here. But no still no news.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archang3l*
> 
> So I have another question, about the EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP. Under enclosed it says 3 EK plugs inclosed But I am only planning to use 1 port as inlet, I probably need another plug but does it matter which one?
> And is an internal tube recommended? Why and which size? I probably use a 204mm EK reservoir. Internal tube sizes are: 40mm, 140mm and 200mm.
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-200mm


If you're talking about the ports on the front then yes you need one more and any plug will do the job









I always use the 40mm one. It's enough.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koplari*
> 
> Howdy!
> 
> New user from Finland and first post to Overclock.net.
> 
> I bought parts for new computer and decided to to go with water cooling. Never build a loop so I had to browse alot to learn all the tricks and find proper parts.
> I decided to go with EK on all, except reservoir (Phobya Balancer 250).
> 
> I bought M8G monoblock for Asus Maximus VIII Gene and noticed something odd.I was trying to install the block with D5 Revo PWM-cable attached to motherboard W_PUMP-connector, but the monoblock doesn´t fit. W_PUMP-connector is right under where the monoblock is supposed to go and the block "floats" on the connector. Few pictures:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, how do i solve this problem? Or should EK had it solved for me when designing the block?


Sorry a bit late here because of the holidays. But as you already figured out, this block is made for 3 boards and the blocking issue was only on the mATX board. We decided to go with it because there are other PWM connectors available and the W_PUMP is usually meant to be used by AIO users. Even if we would have machined something to make it work, it would have been weird looking and would have still be hard to connect the cable in there. Sorry about that issue we always try to avoid those things but some times it happens.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koplari*
> 
> I would like to hear EK´s side on this one. *I hear that their PR is not so kind when people are pointing obvious things about their products*.
> 
> And in the end, i will still continue using their parts, fittings, pumps etcetc. But this is last monoblock for me.


This is not true, can you refer where you experienced this?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Did I miss the post that was suppose to be written about the Signalkuppe? Or was it delayed?


More infos should pop this month


----------



## Koplari

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We decided to go with it because there are other PWM connectors available and the W_PUMP is usually meant to be used by AIO users.


I read about using it for AIO from ROG forums. As i said earlier, i´m going to use the CPU_OPT header instead. I made a connector which fits under the monoblock, but it´s too wobbly to use.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> This is not true, can you refer where you experienced this?:


I remember reading something few years back, nickel plating flaking off inside your blocks. First reaction on EK was denial, after a while blaming the users for using wrong fluids etcetc.
I believe this has improved over the years.









I like EK´s design and looks, especially on ACF fittings. I just got package from Slovenia last week.


----------



## M3TAl

Any tips? Took apart my 290X Lightning block for a cleaning (moving entire rig to a desk build over next week) and the o-ring seems to have stretched out or something? It just wont fit, seems a little too big. The middle of the micro-channels seems oxidized to hell also but that's besides the point.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Any tips? Took apart my 290X Lightning block for a cleaning (moving entire rig to a desk build over next week) and the o-ring seems to have stretched out or something? It just wont fit, seems a little too big. The middle of the micro-channels seems oxidized to hell also but that's besides the point.


Uh Oh! Spaghetti O's...

Same thing happened to me with my Aquacomputer Kryographics blocks...

I just kept trying different ways, putting it on ice for a while, tried heating it up in hot water...

Went to the O-ring store and got a new one!


----------



## rsvette12

You could cut it and then glue it back together lol kidding - order a new one - I dont own this product but would assume they have replacements


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> You could cut it and then glue it back together lol kidding - order a new one - I dont own this product but would assume they have replacements


EK seems to have a lot of replacement parts...

Might just find one!


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> EK seems to have a lot of replacement parts...
> 
> Might just find one!


Sure and good luck shouldn't be a big deal other than waiting for the delivery thats a lot of fun lol - seems thats the only thing I been doing for the last 3 months - order - wait - order - wait


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> Sure and good luck shouldn't be a big deal other than waiting for the delivery thats a lot of fun lol - seems thats the only thing I been doing for the last 3 months - order - wait - order - wait


Ha Ha Ha - Welcome to my world!

Best thing to do is, go to your local hardware store, with the O-ring, and see if they have one..


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Ha Ha Ha - Welcome to my world!
> 
> Best thing to do is, go to your local hardware store, with the O-ring, and see if they have one..


Look thru here - site does not work but if you call quick delivery - they are in New York - called on a Saturday had my part Monday - that was 4 months a go but worth a try









http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c585/s1880/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Replacement_Parts-EK_Replacement_O-Rings-Page1.html


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Ha Ha Ha - Welcome to my world!
> 
> Best thing to do is, go to your local hardware store, with the O-ring, and see if they have one..


Some posts I found still looking hang in there lol

http://www.overclock.net/t/1470071/replacement-o-ring-ekwb-fc-290x

http://www.overclock.net/t/1556968/i-lost-the-o-ring-for-my-gpu-waterblock-now-it-leaks-suggestions


----------



## korruptedkaos

So about to do my order from EK & wondering if anyone knows of any discount codes? its my first time ordering from EK directly so wondering if there is any offers or anything?

also on ready for assembly parts? how long do they usually take. Asus x99 monoblock?


----------



## Kutalion

Joining the club











Must say the x99 monoblock is awesome. VRM temps have gone down by about 15 degrees, VRM backplate is 30 degrees cooler.








While i am amazed at how well it performs, i'm a bit saddened by the fact that EK does not put better thermal pads in. They are not needed but would even further increase the performance of the monoblock.

Installation tutorial is in editing and will be up these days. Pretty easy installation, only wasnt comfortable punching holes through the insulation in the PCB. But thats a matter for the MB manufacturer, dont see the point of it really. If it has holes, why cover them.

Wish i've gotten black acetal version, would go great with the black n white theme, oh well some other time


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Joining the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Must say the x99 monoblock is awesome. VRM temps have gone down by about 15 degrees, VRM backplate is 30 degrees cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While i am amazed at how well it performs, i'm a bit saddened by the fact that EK does not put better thermal pads in. They are not needed but would even further increase the performance of the monoblock.
> 
> Installation tutorial is in editing and will be up these days. Pretty easy installation, only wasnt comfortable punching holes through the insulation in the PCB. But thats a matter for the MB manufacturer, dont see the point of it really. If it has holes, why cover them.
> 
> Wish i've gotten black acetal version, would go great with the black n white theme, oh well some other time


looks cool to me..that tubing needs changing tho







i have the same mobo X99 pro...unless yours is a deluxe.. i want the acetal/nickel version as ill be gold plating it & using black fluid.
no one here in Uk has them tho so going to order all my EK stuff directly from them.. good to here it performs well tho..i cant wait to get mine haha.


----------



## Kutalion

Tubing is like a month old, already changed color and plasticizer started building up. So ill be changing it to elegant white Primochill probably. Still contemplating going 10/16 instead of current 10/13.








Is there any other tubing that has no plasticizer issue?

Mine is a X99-S, so expect much bigger temp difference on your board. X99-S has same VRM as Deluxe, while PRO has same as X99-A. Less efficient mosfets, you'll profit even more from the monoblock.

Stock VRM heatsink backplate temp:










VRM backplate temp after installing EK X99 monoblock.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Tubing is like a month old, already changed color and plasticizer started building up. So ill be changing it to elegant white Primochill probably. Still contemplating going 10/16 instead of current 10/13.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any other tubing that has no plasticizer issue?
> 
> Mine is a X99-S, so expect much bigger temp difference on your board. X99-S has same VRM as Deluxe, while PRO has same as X99-A. Less efficient mosfets, you'll profit even more from the monoblock.
> 
> Stock VRM heatsink backplate temp:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VRM backplate temp after installing EK X99 monoblock.


ive not used soft tubing for years now.. primochill LRT use to be one of the best though so im sure it will look better & hold up a while.

Damn. thats almost halving it lol..guess i made a good choice going for the mono block instead of just a supremacy.








are you overclocking?


----------



## Kutalion

Ofcourse









Of the top of my head, this is at ~ LLC lvl 6, 1.25v core, 1.88v input voltage etc...


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Ofcourse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of the top of my head, this is at ~ LLC lvl 6, 1.25v core, 1.88v input voltage etc...


lol, i thought so, Moar power!

so x99 is like X58 then & cooling the mobo is needed i take it for overclocking,
Ive not been on E platform since X58 & that was a lil toaster untill i put it under water on VRM & NB/SB

Z77 & Z87 are my other rigs & mobo's have been really cool in 30-40c range.

Thx


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Is there any other tubing that has no plasticizer issue?


Mayhems Tubing and Advanced LRT.

Regarding my o-ring, guess I'll check Lowes today.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Is there any other tubing that has no plasticizer issue?
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems Tubing and Advanced LRT.
> 
> Regarding my o-ring, guess I'll check Lowes today.
Click to expand...

Nice build! Have you thought about ZMT, white fittings, and white fluid? That would keep that black and white theme rocking and make that acrylic monoblock pertty.


----------



## Kutalion

Thanks! Not a bad idea, i'll consider it. Dont like going pastel white fluid JUST for the block as the tubes will be black ZMT, but dunno, might do it


----------



## M3TAl

Struck out at the hardware store. Asked in the plumbing and hardware section at Lowes and apparently they don't have anything.

Ace Hardware had a bunch of o-rings of various sizes but nothing that was close to what's needed for a GPU block. Guess I'll try emailing ModMyMods and see if they have anything. Maybe they can add it on to my order from this weekend (hasn't processed yet).


----------



## Archea47

Have you tried using non-volatile (has no smell) silicone grease to hold the original oring in place a bit? It's saved me a lot of frustration while rebuilding blocks


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Struck out at the hardware store. Asked in the plumbing and hardware section at Lowes and apparently they don't have anything.
> 
> Ace Hardware had a bunch of o-rings of various sizes but nothing that was close to what's needed for a GPU block. Guess I'll try emailing ModMyMods and see if they have anything. Maybe they can add it on to my order from this weekend (hasn't processed yet).


Do this

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Have you tried using non-volatile (has no smell) silicone grease to hold the original oring in place a bit? It's saved me a lot of frustration while rebuilding blocks


before this

I bought orings from Mcmaster Carr for my 780 classified block. You just need to figure out the size of the original. i used this to figure out my oring size

https://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/pdf/EK_ORING.pdf


----------



## iBruce

Oh EK, Why do you do this to me?

They have the KPE nickel plexi block on supersale right now, really considering picking it up but I should be smart and use those funds for the M8E monoblock instead.

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc980-gtx-classy-kpe-nickel

Since its a work rig really no need to water cool the GPU, except for the cool aesthetics and the fact I've never had a water cooled GPU







, but all the extra oring issues you guys talk about, just not sure if its worth it to jump into water cooling a GPU.

If I was gaming, yes no question, but I rely more on an overclocked CPU and fast SSD, but it's on sale and if I don't get it now EK will probably stop making it soon, so later it won't be available.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...2_1121225578149710062_n_zpsuulxfsya.jpeg.html

Is one EK XE 240 rad in Push Pull and one EK CE 280 rad in Push only is enough to cool a monoblock and a GPU block?

What to do, what to do???


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Oh EK, Why do you do this to me?
> 
> They have the KPE nickel plexi block on supersale right now, really considering picking it up but I should be smart and use those funds for the M8E monoblock instead.
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc980-gtx-classy-kpe-nickel
> 
> Since its a work rig really no need to water cool the GPU, except for the cool aesthetics and the fact I've never had a water cooled GPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but all the extra oring issues you guys talk about, just not sure if its worth it to jump into water cooling a GPU.
> 
> If I was gaming, yes no question, but I rely more on an overclocked CPU and fast SSD, but it's on sale and if I don't get it now EK will probably stop making it soon, so later it won't be available.
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...2_1121225578149710062_n_zpsuulxfsya.jpeg.html
> 
> Is one EK XE 240 rad in Push Pull and one EK CE 280 rad in Push only is enough to cool a monoblock and a GPU block?
> 
> What to do, what to do???


I wouldn't worry about the o-ring issue too much, those seem to be few and far between incidents, and you can always get new o-rings from EK themselves. I also think those 2 rads would be plenty for those components.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I wouldn't worry about the o-ring issue too much, those seem to be few and far between incidents, and you can always get new o-rings from EK themselves. I also think those 2 rads would be plenty for those components.


Thanks










I've had a couple enthusiasts tell me I was wrong going with the XE240 an XE360 in Push Pull would have been a much better idea.

But then I'd have to position the pumptop and res between the mobo and CE front rad, and planned on featuring an Aquaero LT internal mount in that space, plus PSU cables will neatly fill that area.

So I guess I messed up my cooling quite a bit. oh well, can't plan everything perfectly.









It's a fairly small case, no room for medium thick or very thick rads up top, even a 25mm AIO type rad partially blocks the rear 120mm exhaust, so went with a full top window instead.

The 980 KPE is so monstrous, it steals the show in the left side view completely blocks any view of the CPU monoblock. and the white GPU cables will probably touch the top window, its that close, but I love this little case.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4730_zps52b3zsum.jpg.html

The EK D5 REVO plexi pump top will feature through the CaseLabs side panel mesh only slightly, with two Vardars and Demciflex filtration over the XE240 intake.

I wanted to go three fans spinning as a left side aesthetic, thought about it, but kind of love the asymmetry over aesthetics looks with the pump top in the front bay.



And the CaseLabs U-channel rubber liner arrived, only need 7.902inches (circumference on a 64mm diameter cut hole) but had to buy 6feet, that's ok it's great stuff for future mods will last for years.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Any tips? Took apart my 290X Lightning block for a cleaning (moving entire rig to a desk build over next week) and the o-ring seems to have stretched out or something? It just wont fit, seems a little too big. The middle of the micro-channels seems oxidized to hell also but that's besides the point.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sometimes, it just that the o-ring is stretch at some points in the channels. What I would try, is to retry the installation and instead of forcing the o-ring in place, just gently push it into the channel and if it tends to want to exit the channel, just temporary put some painters tape to hold it in place. if in the end the o-ring enters correctly with excess due to stretch, it will be a patience game of removing the painters tape while securing the o-ring in place.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> So about to do my order from EK & wondering if anyone knows of any discount codes? its my first time ordering from EK directly so wondering if there is any offers or anything?
> 
> also on ready for assembly parts? how long do they usually take. Asus x99 monoblock?


No discount codes sorry. The "Ready for assembly" status usually means a few days max.


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*


That KPE will fly when it's under water.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Do this
> before this
> 
> I bought orings from Mcmaster Carr for my 780 classified block. You just need to figure out the size of the original. i used this to figure out my oring size
> 
> https://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/pdf/EK_ORING.pdf


Thanks for that pdf of EK O-Rings, massively helpful. The 290X Lightning doesn't seem to be on there but the regular 290X block's O-ring seems to be exactly the same from the pics.

Not sure if I've got any non-volatile silicone grease.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Sometimes, it just that the o-ring is stretch at some points in the channels. What I would try, is to retry the installation and instead of forcing the o-ring in place, just gently push it into the channel and if it tends to want to exit the channel, just temporary put some painters tape to hold it in place. if in the end the o-ring enters correctly with excess due to stretch, it will be a patience game of removing the painters tape while securing the o-ring in place.
> No discount codes sorry. The "Ready for assembly" status usually means a few days max.


I've tried putting the O-ring in every which way, it's just too big now. Don't think taping it down will help







.


----------



## korruptedkaos

thx akira


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I've tried putting the O-ring in every which way, it's just too big now. Don't think taping it down will help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Did you emailed the support team? They might be able to help you with it.

[email protected]


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Did you emailed the support team? They might be able to help you with it.
> 
> [email protected]


I think the o-ring is in! It took about 1.5-2 hours straight fiddling with it but it seems to be in, leak test pending.

So I put the o-ring in just like it shows in my picture from before. Put the top back on and screwed it down only in the areas where the o-ring was properly seated. Using a tiny, tiny flathead screw driver I was able to push the o-ring into place. It was very difficult as it took about 4-5 attempts to get it just right. On the other attempts the o-ring kept popping out and getting even more out of whack meaning starting over from scratch again.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koplari*
> 
> I read about using it for AIO from ROG forums. As i said earlier, i´m going to use the CPU_OPT header instead. I made a connector which fits under the monoblock, but it´s too wobbly to use.
> I remember reading something few years back, nickel plating flaking off inside your blocks. First reaction on EK was denial, after a while blaming the users for using wrong fluids etcetc.
> I believe this has improved over the years.


That is the fable that has been popularised. The truth is quite different. There was a limited issue with Nickel flaking but a large number of people were blaming cases of user error and corrosion on EK as being the same thing when it wasn't.
It was quite popular at the time to insist that all any loop needed was a silver coil and distilled. EK advised that wasn't ideal and even had independent testing done but the 'experts' felt that was EK palming them off and insulting their expertness, with much ensuing outrage. They insisted that corrosion only occurred in EK blocks so they must of course be lying. Never mind that they extended the warranty and have the best warranty and support in the business.
Since then, other brands stated making transparent blocks and naturally cases of corrosion began to be noticed in other brands too. It has become quite obvious that EK was right and we don't hear from those very vocal experts much any more. All the major manufactures recommend using an anti corrosive. Every case of corrosion we see in these forums, across all brands, has the common factor of using distilled with silver or copper sulphate and with no anti corrosive.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Koplari*
> 
> I read about using it for AIO from ROG forums. As i said earlier, i´m going to use the CPU_OPT header instead. I made a connector which fits under the monoblock, but it´s too wobbly to use.
> I remember reading something few years back, nickel plating flaking off inside your blocks. First reaction on EK was denial, after a while blaming the users for using wrong fluids etcetc.
> I believe this has improved over the years.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is the fable that has been popularised. The truth is quite different. There was a limited issue with Nickel flaking but a large number of people were blaming user error and corrosion on EK as being the same thing when it wasn't.
> It was quite popular at the time to insist that all any loop needed was a silver coil and distilled. EK advised that wasn't ideal and even had independent testing done but the 'experts' felt that was EK palming them off and insulting their expertness, with much ensuing outrage. They insisted that corrosion only occurred in EK blocks so they must of course be lying. Never mind that they extended the warranty and have the best warranty and support in the business.
> Since then, other brands stated making transparent blocks and naturally cases of corrosion began to be noticed in other brands too. It has become quite obvious that EK was right and we don't hear from those very vocal experts much any more. All the major manufactures recommend using an anti corrosive.
Click to expand...

I still fine just regular old distilled the least likely to screw something up. No kill coil, no color, no coolant, no anti-corrosive....

***Not an expert opinion*** (Just a guy that has screwed up a couple otherwise nice pieces)


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I think the o-ring is in! It took about 1.5-2 hours straight fiddling with it but it seems to be in, leak test pending.
> 
> So I put the o-ring in just like it shows in my picture from before. Put the top back on and screwed it down only in the areas where the o-ring was properly seated. Using a tiny, tiny flathead screw driver I was able to push the o-ring into place. It was very difficult as it took about 4-5 attempts to get it just right. On the other attempts the o-ring kept popping out and getting even more out of whack meaning starting over from scratch again.


Congratulations!!!









Now, did you cut it or nick it?

LEAK TEST! Let us pray..


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Congratulations!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, did you cut it or nick it?
> 
> LEAK TEST! Let us pray..


That's what I'm worried about, could of nicked the crud out of it.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That is the fable that has been popularised. The truth is quite different. There was a limited issue with Nickel flaking but a large number of people were blaming cases of user error and corrosion on EK as being the same thing when it wasn't.
> It was quite popular at the time to insist that all any loop needed was a silver coil and distilled. EK advised that wasn't ideal and even had independent testing done but the 'experts' felt that was EK palming them off and insulting their expertness, with much ensuing outrage. They insisted that corrosion only occurred in EK blocks so they must of course be lying. Never mind that they extended the warranty and have the best warranty and support in the business.
> Since then, other brands stated making transparent blocks and naturally cases of corrosion began to be noticed in other brands too. It has become quite obvious that EK was right and we don't hear from those very vocal experts much any more. All the major manufactures recommend using an anti corrosive. Every case of corrosion we see in these forums, across all brands, has the common factor of using distilled with silver or copper sulphate and with no anti corrosive.


Interesting Jak.

This photo is 10months using EK clear coolant with anti-corrosives. The nickel plating lost near/under the gasket and cannot be seen during normal use, the block still looks great from above, but I always wondered why it happened.

I never made an issue out of it, the block is still in use, great temps, thought maybe it was using the Monsoon silver plated compression fittings in combination would have been the cause mixing dissimilar metals, but Monsoon claims the anti-microbial silver plating is covered by Marine-Grade epoxy or something so no electrolytic properties can exists.

If its covered in epoxy, how can it have antimicrobial properties?









Anyway, I'm almost ready to purchase an M8E monoblock and want to find a solution so this circumstance below does not reoccur.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3225_zps2bkwvwv0.jpg.html


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Anyway, *I'm almost ready to purchase an M8E monoblock* and want to find a solution so this circumstance below does not reoccur.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3225_zps2bkwvwv0.jpg.html


I'm assuming that you have an M8E motherboard...









Do you have any problem with getting your GPU to fit in PCIe_1 X16 slot? There doesn't appear to be of heck of a lot of clearance, between the slot and the heat sink, situated parallel to the slot, if you were to have a WC block w/ Back Plate in that slot... I know that with my M6E, that there wasn't enough clearance for a WC'd GPU w/ Back Plate, even with the EK Full Board Block for that board....



It appears, from the pics of the M8E Mono Block, that there is a little more clearance...


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> I'm assuming that you have an M8E motherboard...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have any problem with getting your GPU to fit in PCIe_1 X16 slot? There doesn't appear to be of heck of a lot of clearance, between the slot and the heat sink, situated parallel to the slot, if you were to have a WC block w/ Back Plate in that slot... I know that with my M6E, that there wasn't enough clearance for a WC'd GPU w/ Back Plate, even with the EK Full Board Block for that board....
> 
> 
> 
> It appears, from the pics of the M8E Mono Block, that there is a little more clearance...


Currently I have no clearance issue with the M8E heatsink and KPE 980 card with EVGA stock air cooler [pic previous page].

I see what you mean though, thanks.









I'll have the M8E monoblock installed long before I add the GPU block.









Just wanted to pick up the KPE block now and hold on to it since its on supersale at the EK store.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Hello,

I wanted to ask you something about the EK-kits. I built a new PC a few days back and I want to delve into custom loops







My system is an ASUS X99-PRO, 5820K processor and a 980Ti (more details in signature) and I want to watercool the CPU and GPU only and wanted to ask, these kits have fixed parts in them? As in can one part in the kit be changed with another? Say for example there is a certain CPU block in a kit, but I want another, would that be possible? Or is it just better to pick the parts yourself and order them as a bundle?

Thanks everyone







Also, any tips are welcome


----------



## Kutalion

Doubt you can change the parts in the kit. Also i'd advice going monoblock on that board as it doesnt have a rather efficient mosfets. That is if you plan on OCing.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Doubt you can change the parts in the kit. Also i'd advice going monoblock on that board as it doesnt have a rather efficient mosfets. That is if you plan on OCing.


I messaged EKWB on this, but I am more leaning towards parting it out myself, and yes, the monoblock is a sure thing


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Oh EK, Why do you do this to me?
> 
> They have the KPE nickel plexi block on supersale right now, really considering picking it up but I should be smart and use those funds for the M8E monoblock instead.
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc980-gtx-classy-kpe-nickel
> 
> Since its a work rig really no need to water cool the GPU, except for the cool aesthetics and the fact I've never had a water cooled GPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but all the extra oring issues you guys talk about, just not sure if its worth it to jump into water cooling a GPU.
> 
> If I was gaming, yes no question, but I rely more on an overclocked CPU and fast SSD, but it's on sale and if I don't get it now EK will probably stop making it soon, so later it won't be available.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...2_1121225578149710062_n_zpsuulxfsya.jpeg.html
> 
> 
> 
> Is one EK XE 240 rad in Push Pull and one EK CE 280 rad in Push only is enough to cool a monoblock and a GPU block?
> 
> What to do, what to do???


Imo you should get that KPE block while it's still available, being that it's on sale makes it a great deal.
And you've got an excellent rad setup in that sweet case.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Imo you should get that KPE block while it's still available, being that it's on sale makes it a great deal.
> And you've got an excellent rad setup in that sweet case.


Or just sell it/get it refunded while you can and get a reference card + block + backplate for less than the cost of a KPE. Idk why anyone who doesn't do sub-zero benching buys them.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Currently I have no clearance issue with the M8E heatsink and KPE 980 card with EVGA stock air cooler [pic previous page].
> 
> I see what you mean though, thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have the M8E monoblock installed long before I add the GPU block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to pick up the KPE block now and hold on to it since its on supersale at the EK store.


It appears that a GPU block, w/ back plate, should fit with the mono block...

I have my doubts about the stock heat sink though...

Good luck to you on your build! Are you going to do a Build Log, or at least keep us informed, on your progress, w/ pictures and text?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Imo you should get that KPE block while it's still available, being that it's on sale makes it a great deal.
> And you've got an excellent rad setup in that sweet case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or just sell it/get it refunded while you can and get a reference card + block + backplate for less than the cost of a KPE. Idk why anyone who doesn't do sub-zero benching buys them.
Click to expand...

I'm going to support iBruce keeping the KPE, I just bought one myself, and picked up an EK KPE block for it from PPC.
The sub-zero crowd can have their fun, sure, but so can us guys who run them under water.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I think the o-ring is in! It took about 1.5-2 hours straight fiddling with it but it seems to be in, leak test pending.
> 
> So I put the o-ring in just like it shows in my picture from before. Put the top back on and screwed it down only in the areas where the o-ring was properly seated. Using a tiny, tiny flathead screw driver I was able to push the o-ring into place. It was very difficult as it took about 4-5 attempts to get it just right. On the other attempts the o-ring kept popping out and getting even more out of whack meaning starting over from scratch again.


Awesome!

Let us know the result of your leak test


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I'm going to support iBruce keeping the KPE, I just bought one myself, and picked up an EK KPE block for it from PPC.
> The sub-zero crowd can have their fun, sure, but so can us guys who run them under water.


Ahh, sorry about that. At least you didn't end up buying more than 1 KPE Maxwell card like some of us. Still mad I bought two and I didn't even buy them new.


----------



## Koplari

Question about EK EVO CLEAR coolant, will it clog up blocks or start any color changes in Primoflex? I´m bleeding my loop from air as i´m waiting my 6700K.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koplari*
> 
> Question about EK EVO CLEAR coolant, will it clog up blocks or start any color changes in Primoflex? I´m bleeding my loop from air as i´m waiting my 6700K.


It won't clog anything.

Are you using the Advanced LRT version of Primochill?


----------



## Koplari

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It won't clog anything.
> 
> Are you using the Advanced LRT version of Primochill?


Yes, i have Advanced LRT Red tubing. As i´m writing here, i might well as post all my parts and few pictures.

Case: Phanteks Evolv ATX
CPU: i7 6700K
Board: Asus Maximus VIII Gene
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z DDR4-3200 16Gb
GPU: Asus GeForce GTX 970 STRIX OC Edition
SSD: 2 X 256GB Samsung 850 PRO

W/C
Radiator: EK XE 360 (with 3 x EK Vardar F4-120ER fan)
Block: EK M8G monoblock
Pump: EK D5 Revo PWM
Reservoir: Phobya Balancer 250 (I painted it, so it didn´t have to be EK)
Fittings: EK 13/10 ACF + CSQ, black + elox black





Pump is fitted in bottom compartment with all connections to radiator + ball valve to drain the system. There´s some work with wiring left and few other things.
After i get my second 970, i´ll go water with both of them. This is my everyday build, i´m making a a new build (Xternal) from the scratch. Follow thread here (all Finnish). Theme is Asus Strix and it´s full aluminium cut with water. PSU and W/C is going to be full external, dimensions to that cube are 300x300x300mm. Top, back and bottom aluminium, 3 other sides from smoke tinted hardened glass. That one is going to be fully W/Cooled.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koplari*
> 
> Yes, i have Advanced LRT Red tubing. As i´m writing here, i might well as post all my parts and few pictures.
> 
> Case: Phanteks Evolv ATX
> CPU: i7 6700K
> Board: Asus Maximus VIII Gene
> RAM: G.Skill Trident Z DDR4-3200 16Gb
> GPU: Asus GeForce GTX 970 STRIX OC Edition
> SSD: 2 X 256GB Samsung 850 PRO
> 
> W/C
> Radiator: EK XE 360 (with 3 x EK Vardar F4-120ER fan)
> Block: EK M8G monoblock
> Pump: EK D5 Revo PWM
> Reservoir: Phobya Balancer 250 (I painted it, so it didn´t have to be EK)
> Fittings: EK 13/10 ACF + CSQ, black + elox black
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump is fitted in bottom compartment with all connections to radiator + ball valve to drain the system. There´s some work with wiring left and few other things.
> After i get my second 970, i´ll go water with both of them. This is my everyday build, i´m making a a new build (Xternal) from the scratch. Follow thread here (all Finnish). Theme is Asus Strix and it´s full aluminium cut with water. PSU and W/C is going to be full external, dimensions to that cube are 300x300x300mm. Top, back and bottom aluminium, 3 other sides from smoke tinted hardened glass. That one is going to be fully W/Cooled.


You will be fine with the Advanced LRT


----------



## iBruce

"Say Hello, to my little friend."

He's got teeth...









♫ I'm fixing a hole where the rain gets in, and stops my mind from wandering ♫










http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4755_zpsivzb5srt.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4757_zpsadqf0cyt.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4760_zpsd7yg9ptn.jpg.html


----------



## korruptedkaos

another question so im sure.

does this FC 3 way terminal work with the asus X99 pro for 3 way sli
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-z77-parallel

just want to sure


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> another question so im sure.
> 
> does this FC 3 way terminal work with the asus X99 pro for 3 way sli
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-z77-parallel
> 
> just want to sure


Yes it's the one


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes it's the one


thx, also do you know if EK will do a dual DDC top in acrylic?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> thx, also do you know if EK will do a dual DDC top in acrylic?


Not that i'm aware of. Sorry


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Not that i'm aware of. Sorry


NVM, ill have to get an XSPC one.









you should mention it to them to add acrylic ones if you can


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes it's the one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thx, also do you know if EK will do a dual DDC top in acrylic?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Not that i'm aware of. Sorry
> 
> 
> 
> NVM, ill have to get an XSPC one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you should mention it to them to add acrylic ones if you can
Click to expand...

I'd stay away from the XSPC acrylic tops, the transfer passage has a nasty habit of leaking after a little use.

Try this one instead:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercool-heatkiller-dual-ddc-case-lt-acryl.html

Or use the Bitspower Magi Cubes which you can group as many as you want together.

They have a bracket kit for duals and triples:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-magic-cube-type-ddc-mod-top-g1-4-acrylic-version.html

Darlene


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'd stay away from the XSPC acrylic tops, the transfer passage has a nasty habit of leaking after a little use.
> 
> Try this one instead:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercool-heatkiller-dual-ddc-case-lt-acryl.html
> 
> Or use the Bitspower Magi Cubes which you can group as many as you want together.
> 
> They have a bracket kit for duals and triples:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-magic-cube-type-ddc-mod-top-g1-4-acrylic-version.html
> 
> Darlene


thx, i might sack the dual top tbh & just go with singles..


----------



## 1Scotty1

Hello, friends

I made a list of parts, that I want to order for my upcoming first custom loop, it is attached below. Please, take a look at it and suggest what I need to change or add, so I don't forget anything once I order







Thank you all

Customloopsetup.xlsx 12k .xlsx file


----------



## snef

Build I did for Asus, it will be in Asus suite at CES


----------



## Duality92

Dat work snef, very epic as usual!









My recently finished build all EK 'cept a few Bitspower extenders. *Thread here*


----------



## akira749

@snef and @Duality92 great job guys!!


----------



## iBruce

Those unusual obtuse angles and arcs Mr. Snef creates in the hard tubing are just beautiful. Does he use a mold? Or just artistic hands?

Going to try to replicate that arc aesthetic in my build.


----------



## seross69

Is their a Monoblock that will fit on the Z170-WS??

@akira749


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Is their a Monoblock that will fit on the Z170-WS??
> 
> @akira749


We currently have no plans for it sorry.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We currently have no plans for it sorry.


Oh well did not think it would hurt to ask as it looks like the other Z-170 blocks might fit it but I guess not.

Thanks a lot


----------



## iBruce

Speaking of monoblocks, my plans are "on hold" purchasing the M8E block until I can figure out what is currently happening to my nickel plexi Supremacy EVO block.

Used it for 10 months in this pic, with copper, nickel, and silver plated Monsoon fittings AND EK clear coolant with biocide and anticorrosives and still the nickel plating fell off.









Don't want this to happen to that beautiful M8E monoblock. $150 investment.

Have already decided to use EK nickel fittings instead of the Monsoon silver plated, but not sure if taking that single step is going to be enough, such a quandary.









And I don't wish to open up the Monsoon silver plated antimicrobial marine grade epoxy coating blah blah can of worms massive confusion processing tutorial so simply removed that factor from the equation all together.

Right now current loop under construction is:

EK rads

EK res

EK plexi pump top

AquaComputer D5 PWM

EK and Bitspower fittings

Bitspower hard tubing to match the enhance fittings

Primochill Advanced LRT soft tubing

EK M8E monoblock???

EK clear coolant OR Mayhems X1 both contain antimicrobials and anticorrosives???

Mayhems Blitz the rads???

Mayhems Pure H20???

I don't know which way to turn next.









...and don't get me started on those gray microbial strings of stuff growing in the microchannels. They transverse the entire length of the microchannels in both directions.










...although gray is one of my primary build colors.







That's Not Funny.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3225_zps2bkwvwv0.jpg.html


----------



## funfordcobra

I've had my loop running about 6 months with no problems or buildup anywhere that I can see. When is it time to completely disassemble and clean? Can I just keep going until I feel there's a problem?


----------



## funfordcobra

Does that stuff come off?


----------



## seross69

That is the reason i am going to use all coppwr from now on!! The nickle looks nice but always someone with problems


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Does that stuff come off?


The black organic goop and the gray stringy organic colonies cleaned right off, yes.

But I was using antimicrobials in the EK solution.









Not sure if the Monsoon silver plating had any antimicrobial effect at all.

The weird part is those pics were taken last July, now the same Supremacy EVO block cleaned up with new EK coolant has that black center line of organic goop growing again, I can see it through the plexi EVO top.

July 2015 to January 2016, is only 6months.

Hesitant to go with EK coolant a fourth time. Wanting to try something new. Maybe Mayhems X1 and PK nuke or something. Picking up a PPCS order on Friday, still not sure what to put in the cart.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Hesitant to go with EK coolant a fourth time. Wanting to try something new. Maybe Mayhems X1 and PK nuke or something. Picking up a PPCS order on Friday, still not sure what to put in the cart.


Isn't EK coolant manufactured by Mayhems anyway?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Isn't EK coolant manufactured by Mayhems anyway?


I asked that question "Is EK clear coolant simply repackaged Mayhems X1?" to the EK reps in the EK forum but never got an answer, so I'm still unsure.


----------



## kizwan

Only EK Pastel coolant manufactured by Mayhems.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I asked that question "Is EK clear coolant simply repackaged Mayhems X1?" to the EK reps in the EK forum but never got an answer, so I'm still unsure.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Isn't EK coolant manufactured by Mayhems anyway?


Only the Pastel is Mayhems


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Speaking of monoblocks, my plans are "on hold" purchasing the M8E block until I can figure out what is currently happening to my nickel plexi Supremacy EVO block.
> 
> Used it for 10 months in this pic, with copper, nickel, and silver plated Monsoon fittings AND EK clear coolant with biocide and anticorrosives and still the nickel plating fell off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't want this to happen to that beautiful M8E monoblock. $150 investment.
> 
> Have already decided to use EK nickel fittings instead of the Monsoon silver plated, but not sure if taking that single step is going to be enough, such a quandary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I don't wish to open up the Monsoon silver plated antimicrobial marine grade epoxy coating blah blah can of worms massive confusion processing tutorial so simply removed that factor from the equation all together.
> 
> Right now current loop under construction is:
> 
> EK rads
> 
> EK res
> 
> EK plexi pump top
> 
> AquaComputer D5 PWM
> 
> EK and Bitspower fittings
> 
> Bitspower hard tubing to match the enhance fittings
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT soft tubing
> 
> EK M8E monoblock???
> 
> EK clear coolant OR Mayhems X1 both contain antimicrobials and anticorrosives???
> 
> Mayhems Blitz the rads???
> 
> Mayhems Pure H20???
> 
> I don't know which way to turn next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and don't get me started on those gray microbial strings of stuff growing in the microchannels. They transverse the entire length of the microchannels in both directions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...although gray is one of my primary build colors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's Not Funny.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3225_zps2bkwvwv0.jpg.html


Its hard to tel from that picture but it doesn't look like the plating has fallen off. It looks like it could just be staining where the fluid stagnates around the oring. That is normally always where corrosion begins but I think from the look of that, that it would probably polish up pretty well.
Around orings is very hard to protect long term

I've had staining that cleaned up perfectly but my 3 yr old Supremacy is still corrosion free thankfully.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of monoblocks, my plans are "on hold" purchasing the M8E block until I can figure out what is currently happening to my nickel plexi Supremacy EVO block.
> 
> Used it for 10 months in this pic, with copper, nickel, and silver plated Monsoon fittings AND EK clear coolant with biocide and anticorrosives and still the nickel plating fell off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't want this to happen to that beautiful M8E monoblock. $150 investment.
> 
> Have already decided to use EK nickel fittings instead of the Monsoon silver plated, but not sure if taking that single step is going to be enough, such a quandary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I don't wish to open up the Monsoon silver plated antimicrobial marine grade epoxy coating blah blah can of worms massive confusion processing tutorial so simply removed that factor from the equation all together.
> 
> Right now current loop under construction is:
> 
> EK rads
> 
> EK res
> 
> EK plexi pump top
> 
> AquaComputer D5 PWM
> 
> EK and Bitspower fittings
> 
> Bitspower hard tubing to match the enhance fittings
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT soft tubing
> 
> EK M8E monoblock???
> 
> EK clear coolant OR Mayhems X1 both contain antimicrobials and anticorrosives???
> 
> Mayhems Blitz the rads???
> 
> Mayhems Pure H20???
> 
> I don't know which way to turn next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and don't get me started on those gray microbial strings of stuff growing in the microchannels. They transverse the entire length of the microchannels in both directions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...although gray is one of my primary build colors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's Not Funny.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3225_zps2bkwvwv0.jpg.html


Have you tried cleaning it yet?

It doesn't look like any plating has fallen off. It looks like some strange gunk over the water channels and simple staining where the o-ring seals.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Only the Pastel is Mayhems


OK - Thanks for that....


----------



## iBruce

Copper metal colored staining? Ok maybe, I did clean the block up it was bare copper last July and now the block is back in service temps are fine, but more black gunk is beginning to grow.

So I'm going with this combination:

Mayhems Blitz the rads
Mayhems X1 concentrate
Mayhems Pure H20 (probably unnecessary but WTH)

EK nickel soft fittings Bitspower 90 and 45 adapters
Bitspower hard fittings and passthroughs
Bitspower Aqua Pipe 16mm to 22mm adjustable from EK res down to EK REVO top and D5

PK nuke on standby

Had this in my cart last week, but cancelled the order, so confusing.

Also Mary from PPCS big shout out to her she's helping me gather the small parts and tools so I can sleeve the (2) Sanyo 120mmx38mm DC fans, sleeving end plugs tiny pins heat shrink, also sleeving the AquaComputer D5 PWM plugs pins etc.

Figure it's about time I learned to do my own sleeving.

The D5s arrive with about 24inches of cabling PWR and PWM, cutting my cable length down to 6inches for easier cable management.

Thanks guys,


----------



## kizwan

Yeah, it doesn't look like nickel is flaking to me either. I also highly doubt the gunk is biological at all. I believe the gunk is just "garbage" created from chemical reaction.


----------



## seross69

@iBruce So this is actually biological growth and not flaking??


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Yeah, it doesn't look like nickel is flaking to me either. I also highly doubt the gunk is biological at all. I believe the gunk is just "garbage" created from chemical reaction.


The black globules are gunk correct, flaking or dirty rad build up. But the gray stringy stuff is not build up, its purely biological, colonies grow like that from a nutrient source. In this case the black gunk is the nutrient source, the gray stringy colonies whether fungi or bacteria are feeding off the black and they line the entire microchannel each microchannel from end to end.

Yea its disgusting, and not letting it happen again, not in the M8E monoblock.

I'll PK nuke them fungi.









I've ever only used EK clear coolant, pre-mixed and concentrate for 3 loops, 18months I've been water cooling, with no silver coil, no additives, just what's in the EK coolant.

Time for a change.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> The black globules are gunk correct, flaking or dirty rad build up. But the gray stringy stuff is not build up, its purely biological, colonies grow like that from a nutrient source. In this case the black gunk is the nutrient source, the gray stringy colonies whether fungi or bacteria are feeding off the black and they line the entire microchannel each microchannel from end to end.
> 
> Yea its disgusting, and not letting it happen again, not in the M8E monoblock.
> 
> I'll PK nuke them fungi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've ever only used EK clear coolant, pre-mixed and concentrate for 3 loops, 18months I've been water cooling, with no silver coil, no additives, just what's in the EK coolant.
> 
> Time for a change.


Don't use copper sulphate with the nickel blocks if you can help it, it says on the EK blog.
Quote:


> Preventive steps:
> 
> 
> Using corrosion inhibiting coolant (such as EK-Ekoolant or other market proven coolant) is highly recommended for any water cooling loops. Since EK-Ekoolant is also a surfactant is will prevent algae growth and dirt deposition on all wettered surface.
> Clean the radiators and flush them with warm water prior to use. You may use vinegar/water solution. Radiators are - due to the nature of manufacturing - usually the source of all dirt particles found on the loop. Always rinse the radiators with distilled water after you have done cleaning.
> Refrain from using Copper Sulphate based additives in your loop in order to prevent tarnishing on your water cooling gear internals!


I use the clear Benzalkonium chloride version of the PM nuke.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Don't use copper sulphate with the nickel blocks if you can help it, it says on the EK blog.
> I use the clear Benzalkonium chloride version of the PM nuke.


Is that only good with distilled or can it be mixed with dyes and pre-mix coolants.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Don't use copper sulphate with the nickel blocks if you can help it, it says on the EK blog.
> *I use the clear Benzalkonium chloride version of the PM nuke*.


This version of PM nuke is OK for EK nickel blocks?

Thanks

trying to find PK nuke/PM nuke whatever the title is, at PPCS, no search results.









I'm sure this question has been asked before. Why not a drop of Sodium Hypochlorite in the loop?

Found this Mayhems biocide at PPCS, no PM nuke. It contains copper sulphate, oh well back to square one.









http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-biocide-extreme.html


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> This version of PM nuke is OK for EK nickel blocks?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> trying to find PK nuke/PM nuke whatever the title is, at PPCS, no search results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure this question has been asked before. Why not a drop of Sodium Hypochlorite in the loop?
> 
> Found this Mayhems biocide at PPCS, no PM nuke. It contains copper sulphate, oh well back to square one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-biocide-extreme.html


I thought you were going to use Mayhems X1 for the fluid? You don't need any kind of biocide with it. X1 contains biocide and anti-corrosives.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I thought you were going to use Mayhems X1 for the fluid? You don't need any kind of biocide with it. X1 contains biocide and anti-corrosives.


That's the plan, but EK coolant also has biocide and I still got the growth, so thought of having something on standby.

Mayhems X1 this time around.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> That's the plan, but EK coolant also has biocide and I still got the growth, so thought of having something on standby.
> 
> Mayhems X1 this time around.


Might want to ask in Mayhems thread or Mayhems support. I don't think adding more biocide (a different biocide at that) to X1 is advisable.


----------



## johnd0e

Hey guys i just finished installing an EK predatror 240 on my 6700K. was wondering if you guys think these temps are normal for 15 minutes of prime95 v28.7. Ambient temp currently is 22.7c, i put a thin line of arctic mx-4 vertically down the cpu and made sure it was covering before completely tightening the block, i did not tighten the block to suggested tightness in the book due to the fact that these cpu's bend under pressure, the block is definetly tight enough though.

my max temp on the package was 84C, picture below.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> -snip-


Low 60s are very good temps with a liquid cooler, however I don't suggest using Prime95 as a tester... try Aida 64 for example... Prime95 puts too much unneeded voltage through the CPU


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> Hey guys i just finished installing an EK predatror 240 on my 6700K. was wondering if you guys think these temps are normal for 15 minutes of prime95 v28.7. Ambient temp currently is 22.7c, i put a thin line of arctic mx-4 vertically down the cpu and made sure it was covering before completely tightening the block, i did not tighten the block to suggested tightness in the book due to the fact that these cpu's bend under pressure, the block is definetly tight enough though.
> 
> my max temp on the package was 84C, picture below.


Since you dont mention voltage or clocks, I'm assuming that you are running stock bios. In auto your bios will overvolt your chip to guarantee stability, and this is further overcompensated due to the avx encoding in P95. Try x264 or realbench like the skylake overclock thread suggests.


----------



## johnd0e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Low 60s are very good temps with a liquid cooler, however I don't suggest using Prime95 as a tester... try Aida 64 for example... Prime95 puts too much unneeded voltage through the CPU


I would only hit 60's in certain parts of the prime95 blend test other parts would sit around 80c. But ill try a different test, thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Since you dont mention voltage or clocks, I'm assuming that you are running stock bios. In auto your bios will overvolt your chip to guarantee stability, and this is further overcompensated due to the avx encoding in P95. Try x264 or realbench like the skylake overclock thread suggests.


Sorry I didn't include that info as I figured it was shown in the picture. I'm running a 4.4 ghz over lock, x44 multiplier at 1.213v in bios, set to adaptive and auto voltage target ill try a different test, thanks kindly..


----------



## Kimir

That CPU need delid.


----------



## johnd0e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> That CPU need delid.


Thought about it. Might happen....


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Holy MOther of God.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wall of Vardars. you are my new best friend.
> 
> I can't top that photo.


I'll try. I'm waiting on my order for a number of Fractal Design Venturi HP-12's. Should make for an interesting pic when I finally get 'em.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> That CPU need delid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought about it. Might happen....
Click to expand...

You would have to put the IHS back in place though since our Naked-IVY system doesn't support naked skylake's CPU's


----------



## Kimir

Delid doesn't necessarily mean running w/o IHS, most of the time it just mean re-do the tim job underneath.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Delid doesn't necessarily mean running w/o IHS, most of the time it just mean re-do the tim job underneath.


Don't worry I know









I just wanted to inform him in case he wanted to go naked on his CPU


----------



## johnd0e

Thanks for that info, I didn't know that. Still might do it just to replace the tim like kimir said.

Im going to mess around with everything after work, try some different stress tests and mess with my overclock, I want to push it higher since I'm under water now.

Side note, not sure if this has been covered already but is there any special reason the predator has the fans installed sucking air out of the case? I switched them to pull air from outside, but just confused me why they would be shipped as essntaily exhuast fans.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Don't worry I know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just wanted to inform him in case he wanted to go naked on his CPU


I kinda want to "Go Commando", with my M8E monoblock.









Ordering a 6700K 4.8GHz Delidded next week for the EK M8E monoblock, that silicon prime is gonna run sweet at extreme low volts at say 4.5GHz, in low waste heat getting work done mode, then switch to power profile 4.8Ghz/3466Mhz.

Got all fluids and sleeving materials worked out with PPCS!

In other news: Seasonic intro'd their new Titanium line-up today. Kinda odd looking.









http://www.tomshardware.com/news/seasonic-prime-80-plus-titanium-psu,30861.html


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> Thanks for that info, I didn't know that. Still might do it just to replace the tim like kimir said.
> 
> Im going to mess around with everything after work, try some different stress tests and mess with my overclock, I want to push it higher since I'm under water now.
> 
> Side note, not sure if this has been covered already but is there any special reason the predator has the fans installed sucking air out of the case? I switched them to pull air from outside, but just confused me why they would be shipped as essntaily exhuast fans.


Simply because having the Vardars in pull is optimal.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Simply because having the Vardars in pull is optimal.


It must be difficult having to remain serious all the time.









Don't you just want to break out and tell a crazy joke once in awhile?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> It must be difficult having to remain serious all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't you just want to break out and tell a crazy joke once in awhile?


I'm usually on the bright side.

Once the EK-Predator issue will be solved, I will be able to became more cheerful again. But I must admit that the last weeks have been quite dark...


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I'm usually on the bright side.
> 
> Once the EK-Predator issue will be solved, I will be able to became more cheerful again. But I must admit that the last weeks have been quite dark...


You've done a fantastic job with that Predator issue by the way. Very well done.









It's Friday, is it ok if I tell an EK joke?

Might make you LOL...

Ok, a horse walks into a bar and the bartender says... oops wrong joke...

A simple EK D5 X-top reservoir without a home selling itself like cheap trash through a modest storefront window in Amsterdam.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...px-LL-e1a14afb_IMG_9375_zpsiv7v825l.jpeg.html


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I'm usually on the bright side.
> 
> Once the EK-Predator issue will be solved, I will be able to became more cheerful again. But I must admit that the last weeks have been quite dark...


I've been living under a rock so enlighten me, what's the issue with the predator AIO. Not trying to add to the depression it's just nice to know


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> You've done a fantastic job with that Predator issue by the way. Very well done.


Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> It's Friday, is it ok if I tell an EK joke?
> 
> Might make you LOL...


Jokes are always welcome








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Ok, a horse walks into a bar and the bartender says... oops wrong joke...
> 
> A simple EK D5 X-top reservoir without a home selling itself like cheap trash through a modest storefront window in Amsterdam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...px-LL-e1a14afb_IMG_9375_zpsiv7v825l.jpeg.html


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I've been living under a rock so enlighten me, what's the issue with the predator AIO. Not trying to add to the depression it's just nice to know


We had to recall a large amount of Predator due to a faulty o-ring and bring a new revision (1.1) of the Predator to solve the issue.

This means a lot of disappointed/angry customers which isn't a good thing


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We had to recall a large amount of Predator due to a faulty o-ring and bring a new revision (1.1) of the Predator to solve the issue.
> 
> This means a lot of disappointed/angry customers which isn't a good thing


That is bad, especially if some customers had leaks on their expensive components.

What was wrong with the oring? Incorrect size? Faulty material?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> That is bad, especially if some customers had leaks on their expensive components.
> 
> What was wrong with the oring? Incorrect size? Faulty material?


Faulty material.....very porous rubber. When the loop heat rises above 60 degrees of so, the pressure will indeed rise up too and at a certain point the o-ring stops to do it's job.


----------



## johnd0e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Faulty material.....very porous rubber. When the loop heat rises above 60 degrees of so, the pressure will indeed rise up too and at a certain point the o-ring stops to do it's job.


How could someone find it if they're unit was recalled? I'm sure mines good as it was literally just purchased but to air on the side of safety how do I find out if I'm possibly affected by this?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> How could someone find it if they're unit was recalled? I'm sure mines good as it was literally just purchased but to air on the side of safety how do I find out if I'm possibly affected by this?


When and Where did you bought it?

Do you have a build date written on your box? What is it?


----------



## johnd0e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> When and Where did you bought it?
> 
> Do you have a build date written on your box? What is it?


i purchased it from performance-pcs january 3, 2016. theres no information filled out on the box all just blank spaces.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> i purchased it from performance-pcs january 3, 2016. theres no information filled out on the box all just blank spaces.


Ok so you must have the mounting screws attached to the CPU block which means it's not a revised unit and will need to be inspected to sse if it leaks


----------



## johnd0e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Ok so you must have the mounting screws attached to the CPU block which means it's not a revised unit and will need to be inspected to sse if it leaks


the thumbscrews? yes they are fixed to the block. where do the leaks usualy occur? How quickly do the orings go once youve gone over 65c?


----------



## funfordcobra

What happened with the predators?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> What happened with the predators?


Oh geez.

I should have never mentioned or opened up the Predator issue here in the club, only wanted akira to have a nice relaxing comedic haha filled Friday.

My EK Amsterdam joke is way funnier than the Predator issue anyway.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> the thumbscrews? yes they are fixed to the block. where do the leaks usualy occur? How quickly do the orings go once youve gone over 65c?


At the junction of the copper plate and the black mounting bracket.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> What happened with the predators?


Check a few posts back


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> At the junction of the copper plate and the black mounting bracket.
> Check a few posts back


Its ONLY Predators right?

All Supremacy EVOs and monoblocks are okeedookee?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Its ONLY Predators right?
> 
> All Supremacy EVOs and monoblocks are okeedookee?


Yes, even the standalone Supremacy MX are fine.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes, even the standalone Supremacy MX are fine.


What happens when you try to save money on a custom loop. Everyone has to shave the corners somewhere.

I went from an H100i to EK custom, yea it costs a little more but not much way back in August 2014 maybe I spent an extra $200 over an AIO. So worth it to take the dive into the deep blue water.









People who are hesitant and look for stop gap measures end up paying more over time in performance, lost sleep, extra trouble, frustration, lack of control. Just go custom, what are you waiting for?









.


----------



## johnd0e

I for one am not losing sleep over this, gives me an excuse to switch to an evo block. i bought the predator becuase i do plan to go "custom loop", thats what its good for, its got everything a custom loop has...just preassembled, this oring problem could have happened to any water block, just so happens to have happened on the predator.....oh well, stuff happens.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> I for one am not losing sleep over this, gives me an excuse to switch to an evo block. i bought the predator becuase i do plan to go "custom loop", thats what its good for, *its got everything a custom loop has...just preassembled*, this oring problem could have happened to any water block, just so happens to have happened on the predator.....oh well, stuff happens.


Whatever.









I predicted enthusiasts would purchase the EK Predator in droves.

and then over time replace piece by piece, part by part until 6months 9months later with new EK custom water parts all around, they eventually drop the DDC/rad and celebrate their new custom water rig.

Didn't I say that? I said that.









EK marketing knows our psychology and our next move, good for them, they smart.









.


----------



## iBruce

Should I open the Noctua Christmas Box now?

It's not water cooling, yes the exact antithesis, but great for back up and testing hardware before constructing the loop.

...it's still in the plastic wrap and needs to breathe life.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4785_zpscfc9n2ye.jpg.html


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> What happens when you try to save money on a custom loop. Everyone has to shave the corners somewhere.
> 
> I went from an H100i to EK custom, yea it costs a little more but not much way back in August 2014 maybe I spent an extra $200 over an AIO. So worth it to take the dive into the deep blue water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *People who are hesitant and look for stop gap measures end up paying more over time in performance, lost sleep, extra trouble, frustration, lack of control.* Just go custom, what are you waiting for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


You know, I found the opposite to be true! Life was simple with my Swiftech H220, got decent CPU temps...

I've been custom loop for two years now and have spent around $3,000.00 on it, so far! Always figuring a better layout, buying fittings, not getting as much as I want in performance.... I do get good performance though! It's always something, this is an expensive addiction, for sure! More worries, more stress, more frustration and on and on...


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Should I open the Noctua Christmas Box now?
> 
> It's not water cooling, yes the exact antithesis, but great for back up and testing hardware before constructing the loop.
> 
> ...it's still in the plastic wrap and needs to breathe life.
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4785_zpscfc9n2ye.jpg.html


OK, open it up...







_


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> You know, I found the opposite to be true! Life was simple with my Swiftech H220, got decent CPU temps...
> 
> I've been custom loop for two years now and have spent around $3,000.00 on it, so far! Always figuring a better layout, buying fittings, not getting as much as I want in performance.... I do get good performance though! It's always something, this is an expensive addiction, for sure! More worries, more stress, more frustration and on and on...


Can make it really simple and just drop one of these (pics below) on your CPU.

But, there is nothing satisfying or enriching about running a passive heat sink, even if it's a world class passive heat sink.

Noctua executes the packaging very well, just like EK. Using this for pre-testing motherboard and CPU memory only. Nice for back up also...









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4786_zpsstd62uow.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4787_zpspl5efaby.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4789_zpsziyvv5uy.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4791_zpshpf5r06n.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4792_zps8dkzx5od.jpg.html


----------



## surfinchina

My 2nd custom loop. Also 2nd EK. I love this stuff - thanks EK












It's a bit jammed in, but all working ok. Apart from one of my vardar ER fans is a bit clicky.
I've got an EK slim 120 in push pull at the intake, another slim in push at the outake,
Because of the tight space I really appreciated the matt black tube, it's quite flexible and seals nicely.
The 5960 is running 40deg C at idle so I'm pretty sure I did a crap job with the TIM.
The one change I'd make is the top res. It's a bit big and hides a lot of nice bits. Works ok though.

Any hints on finishing it off nicely would be appreciated


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> My 2nd custom loop. Also 2nd EK. I love this stuff - thanks EK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a bit jammed in, but all working ok. Apart from one of my vardar ER fans is a bit clicky.
> I've got an EK slim 120 in push pull at the intake, another slim in push at the outake,
> Because of the tight space I really appreciated the matt black tube, it's quite flexible and seals nicely.
> The 5960 is running 40deg C at idle so I'm pretty sure I did a crap job with the TIM.
> The one change I'd make is the top res. It's a bit big and hides a lot of nice bits. Works ok though.
> 
> Any hints on finishing it off nicely would be appreciated


Looks extremely professional. wewt wewt.

Throw on some of these hyper-blue fittings.

Everything nickel goes blue, then your mind blows.









http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?o=bitspoiwer+blue&q=bitspower+blue


----------



## iBruce

Why is this EK hyper-cooled video not in the club thread?
Late, but still great. CaseLabs Mercury S8 Love.









Linus says the S8 is black and orange, but we all know it's sweet gunmetal and orange.









http://www.caselabs-store.com/mercury-s8/


----------



## johnd0e

That system though







.........and of course al those x34 predators, no wonder i can never find one when i have money to burn.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Can make it really simple and just drop one of these (pics below) on your CPU.
> 
> But, there is nothing satisfying or enriching about running a passive heat sink, even if it's a world class passive heat sink.
> 
> Noctua executes the packaging very well, just like EK. Using this for pre-testing motherboard and CPU memory only. Nice for back up also...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4786_zpsstd62uow.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4787_zpspl5efaby.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4789_zpsziyvv5uy.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4791_zpshpf5r06n.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4792_zps8dkzx5od.jpg.html


How would I cool my GPU's and VRM's?



[I

Since this is the EK forum, I'd better show my Supremacy EVO, and my 3 EK Rads, the Black Ice Rad does show in this picture...

Oh, the 2x Aquacomputer Kryographics GPU blocks also...

Sorry, not everything is EK...


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> How would I cool my GPU's and VRM's?
> 
> 
> 
> [I
> 
> Since this is the EK forum, I'd better show my Supremacy EVO, and my 3 EK Rads, the Black Ice Rad does show in this picture...
> 
> Oh, the 2x Aquacomputer Kryographics GPU blocks also...
> 
> Sorry, not everything is EK...


I believe Mr. Watson is my new Caselabs robot.

He only needs (4) motorized wheels to begin his brand new existence. CaseLabs robotics please delegate that responsibility, Kevin and Jim.

CaseLabs robotics, worth saying twice.









.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Faulty material.....very porous rubber. When the loop heat rises above 60 degrees of so, the pressure will indeed rise up too and at a certain point the o-ring stops to do it's job.


What I wonder is it faulty material or wrong material. I know how easy this is to do when buying O-rings. Their are so many choices, rubber, nitrile, Silicone, Neoprene etc etc. then their is hardness or the Durometer of the material. so many choices. and the thing is most are rated above 80c?? Polyurethane is the only one rated below 100c I bet it was the wrong hardness or the o-rings were designed for something other than water. Most people don't realize water is the hardest thing to seal! It is going to find a way out if their is one!

I have ordered the right material and had them send me the wrong material and try to prove this with out spending a lot of money to have it analyzed. The bad thing is you will never know by looking at them, will not find out until you have assembled 1000 items and then everything leaks after a small amount of time..

I know EK is going to do the right thing but it is a big hassle for everyone. Just remember they can not control something like this. They can not test each item before it is shipped cost would be too high. You can order a sample and test it and then they send you something different when you do the production run.

Thanks for all the great products EK and akira749 thanks for all the help!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> My 2nd custom loop. Also 2nd EK. I love this stuff - thanks EK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a bit jammed in, but all working ok. Apart from one of my vardar ER fans is a bit clicky.
> I've got an EK slim 120 in push pull at the intake, another slim in push at the outake,
> Because of the tight space I really appreciated the matt black tube, it's quite flexible and seals nicely.
> The 5960 is running 40deg C at idle so I'm pretty sure I did a crap job with the TIM.
> The one change I'd make is the top res. It's a bit big and hides a lot of nice bits. Works ok though.
> 
> Any hints on finishing it off nicely would be appreciated


Very nice! I did a custome loop in a 901 once and it's a very challenging case.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> What I wonder is it faulty material or wrong material. I know how easy this is to do when buying O-rings. Their are so many choices, rubber, nitrile, Silicone, Neoprene etc etc. then their is hardness or the Durometer of the material. so many choices. and the thing is most are rated above 80c?? Polyurethane is the only one rated below 100c I bet it was the wrong hardness or the o-rings were designed for something other than water. Most people don't realize water is the hardest thing to seal! It is going to find a way out if their is one!
> 
> I have ordered the right material and had them send me the wrong material and try to prove this with out spending a lot of money to have it analyzed. The bad thing is you will never know by looking at them, will not find out until you have assembled 1000 items and then everything leaks after a small amount of time..
> 
> I know EK is going to do the right thing but it is a big hassle for everyone. Just remember they can not control something like this. They can not test each item before it is shipped cost would be too high. You can order a sample and test it and then they send you something different when you do the production run.
> 
> Thanks for all the great products EK and akira749 thanks for all the help!


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I believe Mr. Watson is my new Caselabs robot.
> 
> He only needs (4) motorized wheels to begin his brand new existence. CaseLabs robotics please delegate that responsibility, Kevin and Jim.
> 
> CaseLabs robotics, worth saying twice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Mr. Wellsburg has a much lower center of gravity than Mr. Watson...

It would be much safer to try it with him...

But, I see that Mr. Wellsburg is a Flat Foot, and needs some wheels!!


----------



## SteezyTN

So I'm curious... Does it void our warranty if we cut the sticker on the waterblocks and open them up... TX block to be precise.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm curious... Does it void our warranty if we cut the sticker on the waterblocks and open them up... TX block to be precise.


I believe it does but not 100% sure, i'm sure Akira will let you know


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm curious... Does it void our warranty if we cut the sticker on the waterblocks and open them up... TX block to be precise.


Nope


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm curious... Does it void our warranty if we cut the sticker on the waterblocks and open them up... TX block to be precise.


No it won't.


----------



## M3TAl

Decided to take 290X block apart again to clean that patina. Oring is properly in place and no visible nicks in it, haven't leak tested it.

The blue/green is coming out nice with some lemon juice and salt.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Decided to take 290X block apart again to clean that patina. Oring is properly in place and no visible nicks in it, haven't leak tested it.
> 
> The blue/green is coming out nice with some lemon juice and salt.


I'd take the block off the PCB if I were you... It's too easy to screw it up by spilling liquid and whatever on it...









Just a word of caution...









Mike


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Decided to take 290X block apart again to clean that patina. Oring is properly in place and no visible nicks in it, haven't leak tested it.
> 
> The blue/green is coming out nice with some lemon juice and salt.


Urm, you're not supposed to use anything acidic on nickel plated copper...


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Urm, you're not supposed to use anything acidic on nickel plated copper...


Oh well the plating was already comprised. At least it's nice and clean now.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Decided to take 290X block apart again to clean that patina. Oring is properly in place and no visible nicks in it, haven't leak tested it.
> 
> The blue/green is coming out nice with some lemon juice and salt.


Just looking at that pic, with the waterblock still attached to the card, I was like...


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Just looking at that pic, with the waterblock still attached to the card, I was like...


I've spilled all over motherboards and cards. As long as they're not on then so what? Everything still works great.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I've spilled all over motherboards and cards. As long as they're not on then so what? Everything still works great.


Personally I would of contacted EK to see if they could replace the nickel or something for a fee but you've shown you're not really bothered so nevermind lol. Each to their own I guess.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Personally I would of contacted EK to see if they could replace the nickel or something for a fee but you've shown you're not really bothered so nevermind lol. Each to their own I guess.


I think getting it replated would probably be fairly expensive, not really worth it in my opinion considering it doesnt affect performance.


----------



## d0mmie

I posted this first in the Predator thread, but I guess it belongs in here instead. I'd really like an answer from an EK representative on this, as for some reason I cannot log into the EKWB support website. It just bounces me back to the shop and logs me out.

Quote:


> So I took my Supremacy MX block (not from a Predator) apart to inspect the O-ring and it looks like this. Is that black sticky stuff present on the copper normal?


----------



## sinnedone

Are you running colored fluid?

I also see a little black where the jet plate pushes water onto the micro fins.

Have you tried cleaning it yet?


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I've spilled all over motherboards and cards. As long as they're not on then so what? Everything still works great.


Hmmmmm...

OK, I guess...


----------



## Edge0fsanity

I'm having an issue with my gpu blocks ever since i cleaned them a couple weeks ago. After putting them back together and filling the system i'm having fluid escaping the channels and flowing through the middle where it should not. Makes the nickel in the middle look clouded due to the pastel white fluid finding its way in there. I've taken the blocks apart twice now trying to get this to stop. At first i thought i didn't get the jet plate perfectly centered or the nickel and plexi perfectly clean. I made sure those two things were taken care of the second time i took apart the blocks but still got the same result. Doesn't seem to affect cooling at all as my temps run in the mid to upper 30s at load and run exactly the same temp between the two cards. I'm going to give it one last attempt at getting this fixed later this week. I'm adding a second pump to the loop so i have to drain the system anyways. Anyone know why this is happening and how to fix it?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Hmmmmm...
> 
> OK, I guess...


The first time I built a loop yes I was super careful, even paranoid. These days it's whatever is most convenient, time is limited.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Mr. Wellsburg has a much lower center of gravity than Mr. Watson...
> 
> It would be much safer to try it with him...
> 
> But, I see that Mr. Wellsburg is a Flat Foot, and needs some wheels!!


























Hey you're gonna hurt Mr. Wellsburg's feelings, (last time he got upset he left a pile of little batteries all over the desk) he's not a flat foot, he dances on hemispheres. Sorbothane 2.5inch hemispheres to be exact. That's one of the many reasons he's so Inaudible.









http://www.amazon.com/Sorbothane-Hemisphere-Rubber-Non-skid-Adhesive/dp/B005JRK39M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452536538&sr=8-2&keywords=2.5+sorbothane+hemisphere

I did have four CaseLabs HD wheels on him in the beginning, the extra large set, but I kept thinking he was going to roll off my work desk and BANG. Find him upside down on the floor in the middle of the night.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_0782_zpsa57b45f9.jpg.html

Ended up using the CaseLabs HD wheels under a kitchen island for grilling, it now rolls very very fast.









Believe it or not the Sorbothane costs more than twice as much as the CL HD wheels, it's good stuff if you need to absorb noise energy vibration in your rig, but it's sticky, have to place on a bathtowel to build and slide around on the towel, for building the wheels are very nice, allows you to gain access to all aspects of a work in progress.









These smaller 1inch hemispheres are for underneath the EK plexi XTOP REVO and D5 pump for the same reason, so isolate and absorb all noise energy.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> I'm having an issue with my gpu blocks ever since i cleaned them a couple weeks ago. After putting them back together and filling the system i'm having fluid escaping the channels and flowing through the middle where it should not. Makes the nickel in the middle look clouded due to the pastel white fluid finding its way in there. I've taken the blocks apart twice now trying to get this to stop. At first i thought i didn't get the jet plate perfectly centered or the nickel and plexi perfectly clean. I made sure those two things were taken care of the second time i took apart the blocks but still got the same result. Doesn't seem to affect cooling at all as my temps run in the mid to upper 30s at load and run exactly the same temp between the two cards. I'm going to give it one last attempt at getting this fixed later this week. I'm adding a second pump to the loop so i have to drain the system anyways. Anyone know why this is happening and how to fix it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's normal that some fluid goes there.

Even on your product pictures you can see it.


----------



## Kronos8

I would much apreciate your help. I am a bit confuced. I have in front of me the EK supremacy evo original csq copper plexi.



according to the instructions the default config is insert I1 (I confirmed that) and jet 1.
In the picture above the left jet was in by default (so J1 ? ). J2 should be the middle one , but J3 is not the same as the picture on instructions.

Could someone help me clarify this?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kronos8*
> 
> I would much apreciate your help. I am a bit confuced. I have in front of me the EK supremacy evo original csq copper plexi.
> 
> 
> 
> according to the instructions the default config is insert I1 (I confirmed that) and jet 1.
> In the picture above the left jet was in by default (so J1 ? ). J2 should be the middle one , but J3 is not the same as the picture on instructions.
> 
> Could someone help me clarify this?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I can help you with that.









J2 is .3mm thick with four notches in total, two of which are guide notches, two are identification notches.

That's the one to use for a 115x CPU, the one in the middle in your photo.

The other two J1 and J3 have ONLY two guide notches, one is extremely thin, and that is the J3.

The EK EVO manual contains one text error and one illustration error, you found them both.









Here's another reference, on this page Dr. VSG explains the Supremacy EVO jet plates perfectly.

http://thermalbench.com/2015/01/07/ek-supremacy-evo-cpu-waterblock/3/

It's only confusing because EK messed up the Supremacy EVO manual, umm TWICE, but who's counting?









"It is by will alone, I set my mind in motion."





.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I can help you with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> J2 is .3mm thick with four notches in total, two of which are guide notches, two are identification notches.
> 
> That's the one to use for a 115x CPU, the one in the middle in your photo.
> 
> The other two J1 and J3 have ONLY two guide notches, one is extremely thin, and that is the J3.
> 
> The EK EVO manual contains one text error and one illustration error, you found them both.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another reference, on this page Dr. VSG explains the Supremacy EVO jet plates perfectly.
> 
> http://thermalbench.com/2015/01/07/ek-supremacy-evo-cpu-waterblock/3/
> 
> It's only confusing because EK messed up the Supremacy EVO manual, umm TWICE, but who's counting?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "It is by will alone, I set my mind in motion."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


That's how you provide a quality answer to a question. Good info and further reading.

Good Job Bruce.


----------



## Kronos8

@ iBruce

Many thanks for your reply.
So the thickness is the correct reference. Good to know.
I had to disassemble the block 4 times in order to assemble it correctly.
You can mess things up really good.
It needs 110% your attention.
I don't mind that as long as the instructions are correct.

Again thanks for your reply.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's normal that some fluid goes there.
> 
> Even on your product pictures you can see it.


yeah i had read that it was the case with some blocks. Was just curious if there was a way to prevent it. Neither of my blocks did this before i opened them up for cleaning.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey *you're gonna hurt Mr. Wellsburg's feelings*, (last time he got upset he left a pile of little batteries all over the desk) he's not a flat foot, he dances on hemispheres. Sorbothane 2.5inch hemispheres to be exact. That's one of the many reasons he's so Inaudible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Sorbothane-Hemisphere-Rubber-Non-skid-Adhesive/dp/B005JRK39M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452536538&sr=8-2&keywords=2.5+sorbothane+hemisphere
> 
> *I did have four CaseLabs HD wheels* on him in the beginning, the extra large set, but I kept thinking *he was going to roll off my work desk* and BANG. Find him upside down on the floor in the middle of the night.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_0782_zpsa57b45f9.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Ended up using the CaseLabs HD wheels under a kitchen island for grilling, it now rolls very very fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Believe it or not the Sorbothane costs more than twice as much as the CL HD wheels, it's good stuff if you need to absorb noise energy vibration in your rig, but it's sticky, have to place on a bathtowel to build and slide around on the towel, for building the wheels are very nice, allows you to gain access to all aspects of a work in progress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These smaller 1inch hemispheres are for underneath the EK plexi XTOP REVO and D5 pump for the same reason, so isolate and absorb all noise energy.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mine & Watson-III's apologies to Mr. Wellsburg... Sorry old chap!

Does He look sorry? Sure He does!



The Original Watson! He's old and gray now, but still a crazy Beagle...









The case looks very precarious, with the wheels, on your desk... Wait a minute! That looks like another CaseLabs that Mr. Wellsburg is on! Is it?

Like the Sorbothane thingys... Mr. Wellsburg must feel like he's floating on a cloud of titties...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Why is this EK hyper-cooled video not in the club thread?
> Late, but still great. CaseLabs Mercury S8 Love.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Linus says the S8 is black and orange, but we all know it's sweet gunmetal and orange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/mercury-s8/


That' just simply Psycholicous! I think I will get 6 friends to pitch in for that build.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> yeah i had read that it was the case with some blocks. Was just curious if there was a way to prevent it. Neither of my blocks did this before i opened them up for cleaning.


Did you always had the same coolant?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Did you always had the same coolant?


yeah, only used mayhems pastel white with these blocks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> yeah, only used mayhems pastel white with these blocks


Ok, I asked because sometimes, some coolant will have more ease to go there but if it was always the same than it remain a mystery as of why you didn't saw this effect before.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Ok, I asked because sometimes, some coolant will have more ease to go there buat if it was always the same than it remain a mystery as of why you didn't saw this effect before.


I did switch out the coolant when i expanded my loop a couple weeks ago. Same mayhems pastel white but i was sent the v2 version of it this time.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> I did switch out the coolant when i expanded my loop a couple weeks ago. Same mayhems pastel white but i was sent the v2 version of it this time.


It could be the reason why. If the recipe has changed it might be more "fluid" than before.


----------



## 0xzz

so i finally received the rest of my parts yesterday and i started by adjusting the orientation of my XRES D5 Revo and fastening the two screws on the pump holder hand tight. today i wanted to adjust the orientation so i took the two screws back out and i saw that the plastic had already deformed and was damaged:


Spoiler: Open image in new tab







Did i just tighten them too much?? i didnt use much force...
I put some superglue on the damaged parts and i hope it will be ok...

Regards


----------



## Benjiw

Hello all, I'm on the look out for waterblocks to fit the SOC-Force z97 motherboard. If anyone knows of anyone selling them off please let me know!


----------



## Panther Al

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Why is this EK hyper-cooled video not in the club thread?
> Late, but still great. CaseLabs Mercury S8 Love.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Linus says the S8 is black and orange, but we all know it's sweet gunmetal and orange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/mercury-s8/


I saw that vid when it came out, and I have to admit, one of the first questions that popped into my mind for a massive folding farm is, "@akira749, Can we order that 7-Way Bridge Block?"


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I posted this first in the Predator thread, but I guess it belongs in here instead. I'd really like an answer from an EK representative on this, as for some reason I cannot log into the EKWB support website. It just bounces me back to the shop and logs me out.


EK-XLC Predator 240 and 360 Recall: Click


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> EK-XLC Predator 240 and 360 Recall: Click


Ouch. They're beginning to seem like the Toyota of watercooling these days.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Ouch. They're beginning to seem like the Toyota of watercooling these days.


Yeah, it's a bit unfortunate.

But now you can get the 240 with a quick-disconnect as well.

I'm lucky that I had to delay the purchase for my wife's rig, because we have to move end of the month.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Ouch. They're beginning to seem like the Toyota of watercooling these days.


Wow thanks! It really helps.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Wow thanks! It really helps.


I'm not sure if you read that the right way







EK is the most popular and has very good stuff but seems to have a lot of recalls lately (like how Camrys are #1, pretty damn reliable, but seem to be getting plagued with recalls).


----------



## 0xzz

even though the top three ports (left in the image) on the EK Multiport Top are recessed, can i just put in ek compression fittings or do i need some sort of extender?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> even though the top three ports (left in the image) on the EK Multiport Top are recessed, can i just put in ek compression fittings or do i need some sort of extender?


You need an extender


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You need an extender


ok so would this extender work??
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-black


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> ok so would this extender work??
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-black


Yes it will


----------



## emsj86

Maths exam missed it said before. But what is he reason for the recessed ports ? Also my sure who makes the choice. But some hardline fittings at micro centers would be nice. Would be so much easier to pick and choose and exchange if need be fittings if I could just buy them there.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> ok so would this extender work??
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-black


Thanks Oxzz, +rep didn't know EK made those additional recessed extenders, placed one on my order today after reading your post, picked it up just now.









So glad EK offers an alternative to the stock nickel 8mm extender that comes with their reservoirs and Xres skus.

I got a black one, (far left in this pic) its 5mm thick instead of the standard 8mm part, will allow for slightly better clearance between the X3 res and the EK Revo plexi D5 top below.

Connecting the two with this Bitspower adjustable Aqua Pipe 16mm to 22mm (on the far right in pic). So I can adjust how much of the Res/pump top/D5 assembly's overall weight/mass is carried by the snug u-channel liner up above and how much rests on the sorbothane feet below.

Hoping to be able to "dial in" just the right amount of noise absorption capability without collapsing overloading the sorbothane.

Also picked up my first EK compression fittings, they look very nice, feel much better about using them instead of the Monsoon silver plated. So only nickel and copper are in the loop.

Also picked up two AquaComputer 2-pole pwm connectors so can power and adjust brightness of the EK 15 white LED strip for the reservoir, the one that arrived with the X4 250 res.

80mm diameter reservoir = 15 LEDs circumference of the tube

60mm diameter reservoir = 12 LEDs circumference of the tube

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4807_zpss3s2qmea.jpg.html

And a PPCS Crimping Tool heat shrink sleeving 3 and 4-pin fan connectors and the tiny little pins so I can sleeve my own fans and custom cut to length the D5 pump cable pwr and pwm control.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/deluxe-molex-hand-crimp-tool.html


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Wow thanks! It really helps.


As said before, it's just a bit unfortunate and not a big deal, at least not for me.

EK is still the No.1 for me.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I'm not sure if you read that the right way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK is the most popular and has very good stuff but seems to have a lot of recalls lately (like how Camrys are #1, pretty damn reliable, but seem to be getting plagued with recalls).


At least they do prompt recalls and don't pull an XSPC with their poorly designed d5 bay res that featured an obvious defect that led to a year of leaking reservoirs before they decided to do something about it.


----------



## MegaTheJohny

hey guys..I have EK/Mayhem pastel red coolant in my system and I would like to change it because it's not red anymore (currently it's brown).
So I was thinking to buy new EK blood red coolant.... is that similar quality coolant?

Also, do I need to flush my rads with clear distilled water before I get new coolant in?
thanks


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> hey guys..I have EK/Mayhem pastel red coolant in my system and I would like to change it because it's not red anymore (currently it's brown).
> So I was thinking to buy new EK blood red coolant.... is that similar quality coolant?
> 
> Also, do I need to flush my rads with clear distilled water before I get new coolant in?
> thanks


I would suggest, flushing your whole system, with Mayhems Blitz Part 2...


----------



## vietrice89

EK-XTOP Revo D5 can be mounted horizontally correct? It says it has horizontal and vertical mounts but I didn't know if that meant the whole thing could be horizontal or not.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> EK-XTOP Revo D5 can be mounted horizontally correct? It says it has horizontal and vertical mounts but I didn't know if that meant the whole thing could be horizontal or not.


Just make sure your pump isn't upside down. Example:


Quote:


> Note that the pumps are "upside" down in comparison to most cylinder setups. Indeed Laing does not recommend this because air can become trapped and the pumps might run dry.


Source: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/01/31/koolance-rp-452x2-rev2-0-dual-d5-pump-dual-bay-reservoir-combo/2/


----------



## vietrice89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Just make sure your pump isn't upside down. Example:
> 
> 
> Source: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/01/31/koolance-rp-452x2-rev2-0-dual-d5-pump-dual-bay-reservoir-combo/2/




So having it mounted at the top of my case like this would be okay?


----------



## Basiletech

Does anyone know how I can make my own Laing DDC layout? like this


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> 
> 
> So having it mounted at the top of my case like this would be okay?


Correct. You're OK as long as your pump isn't upside down. It might be a PITA to fill/bleed and you need to ensure your reservoir is fairly full while filling the loop so it doesn't run dry.

For the top+pump (still applies to pump+res):



Here's a fairly recent thread on your question, I suggest reading it: http://www.overclock.net/t/1497183/can-a-pump-run-on-its-side/0_20


----------



## akira749

Hi guys,

Today we released 2 new tubing sizes of our Zero Maintenance Tube or ZMT tubing.









Soft Tubing


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Today we released 2 new tubing sizes of our Zero Maintenance Tube or ZMT tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Soft Tubing


How is this possible??

Technical specifications:
- Material: EPDM
- Colour: Black, not UV-reactive
- Inner diameter: 12,5mm (3/4")
- Outer diameter: 19,4mm (1/2")
- Operating temperature range: -30 °C to 110 °C
- Compatible with all known widely used coolants

How can the inner diameter be bigger than the outer diameter.

Actually I do see the conversions were put in the wrong place.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> How is this possible??
> 
> Technical specifications:
> - Material: EPDM
> - Colour: Black, not UV-reactive
> - Inner diameter: 12,5mm (3/4")
> - Outer diameter: 19,4mm (1/2")
> - Operating temperature range: -30 °C to 110 °C
> - Compatible with all known widely used coolants
> 
> How can the inner diameter be bigger than the outer diameter.
> 
> Actually I do see the conversions were put in the wrong place.


Woah!!! Good catch I will have it fixed


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Today we released 2 new tubing sizes of our Zero Maintenance Tube or ZMT tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Soft Tubing


Very cool tubing. You guys just never sleep do ya?









Will we see a greater offering of specialty fittings in 2016?

Some of the parts I'm having to pick up at PPCS from Bitspower. Maybe adding white to your rotary adapter and stop plug line-up?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Today we released 2 new tubing sizes of our Zero Maintenance Tube or ZMT tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Soft Tubing


Wooohooooo, finally a larger version of the tubing!


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> How is this possible??
> 
> Technical specifications:
> - Material: EPDM
> - Colour: Black, not UV-reactive
> - Inner diameter: 12,5mm (3/4")
> - Outer diameter: 19,4mm (1/2")
> - Operating temperature range: -30 °C to 110 °C
> - Compatible with all known widely used coolants
> 
> How can the inner diameter be bigger than the outer diameter.
> 
> Actually I do see the conversions were put in the wrong place.


I think only you Americans would catch that


----------



## vietrice89

I have a coolstream ce 280mm radiator(front mounted push/pull in a r5) for my 4790k and gtx 980 ti. Will that be enough for my cpu/gpu or will I need an additional rad?


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> I have a coolstream ce 280mm radiator(front mounted push/pull in a r5) for my 4790k and gtx 980 ti. Will that be enough for my cpu/gpu or will I need an additional rad?


You should be fine as long you don't overclock. However don't expect super low temperatures with only a 280mm rad. Don't be surprised if your GPU hits 55-65 degrees Celsius (also this really depends on your pump).


----------



## vietrice89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> You should be fine as long you don't overclock. However don't expect super low temperatures with only a 280mm rad. Don't be surprised if your GPU hits 55-65 degrees Celsius (also this really depends on your pump).


I got a xres 140 d5 Res/pump combo. Would it be beneficial to add a 140mm rad with my exhaust fan or would that be useless since all the hot air in my case passes by it?


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> Would it be beneficial to add a 140mm rad with my exhaust fan or would that be useless since all the hot air in my case passes by it?


Most likely useless. Rads should be intake only for best performance.


----------



## 0xzz

i use a xres d5 revo 140 pump/res combo with the inlet at the top, should i use the anti cyclone plastic thingie or the pe foam inside my res??


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Just make sure your pump isn't upside down. Example:
> 
> 
> Source: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/01/31/koolance-rp-452x2-rev2-0-dual-d5-pump-dual-bay-reservoir-combo/2/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So having it mounted at the top of my case like this would be okay?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't. The intake port is in the center of D5. So, a little less than half your coolant reserve would be untouchable by the draw of the D5 when running low on coolant. Whereas if you mount it upright, 100% of your reserve is flowing through the Inlet. If mounting at the top of your system is your goal, I would rethink that and try to get it upright, even if it required a smaller Reservoir tube.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> ok so would this extender work??
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-black
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Oxzz, +rep didn't know EK made those additional recessed extenders, placed one on my order today after reading your post, picked it up just now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glad EK offers an alternative to the stock nickel 8mm extender that comes with their reservoirs and Xres skus.
> 
> I got a black one, (far left in this pic) its 5mm thick instead of the standard 8mm part, will allow for slightly better clearance between the X3 res and the EK Revo plexi D5 top below.
> 
> Connecting the two with this Bitspower adjustable Aqua Pipe 16mm to 22mm (on the far right in pic). So I can adjust how much of the Res/pump top/D5 assembly's overall weight/mass is carried by the snug u-channel liner up above and how much rests on the sorbothane feet below.
> 
> Hoping to be able to "dial in" just the right amount of noise absorption capability without collapsing overloading the sorbothane.
> 
> Also picked up my first EK compression fittings, they look very nice, feel much better about using them instead of the Monsoon silver plated. So only nickel and copper are in the loop.
> 
> Also picked up two AquaComputer 2-pole pwm connectors so can power and adjust brightness of the EK 15 white LED strip for the reservoir, the one that arrived with the X4 250 res.
> 
> 80mm diameter reservoir = 15 LEDs circumference of the tube
> 
> 60mm diameter reservoir = 12 LEDs circumference of the tube
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4807_zpss3s2qmea.jpg.html
> 
> And a PPCS Crimping Tool heat shrink sleeving 3 and 4-pin fan connectors and the tiny little pins so I can sleeve my own fans and custom cut to length the D5 pump cable pwr and pwm control.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/deluxe-molex-hand-crimp-tool.html
Click to expand...

I have that same crimper and it works really well. Although I have to preset my pins in the jaws due to old/tired eyes.







Time to get a jewelers loupe.







-s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> i use a xres d5 revo 140 pump/res combo with the inlet at the top, should i use the anti cyclone plastic thingie or the pe foam inside my res??


Should use the EK branded Anti Cyclone device. Unless mounted horizontally.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> Would it be beneficial to add a 140mm rad with my exhaust fan or would that be useless since all the hot air in my case passes by it?
> 
> 
> 
> Most likely useless. Rads should be intake only for best performance.
Click to expand...

It really doesn't matter. For optimal temps, Intake is the way to go.

To make the system quieter running Exhaust is fine in Pull orientation. There is a minor loss in performance (- a few *C at most) but nothing worth getting woked up about.

I run exhaust as it helps keep the heat from building up and for a touch more silence than in Intake. I set my fans to Pull so they draw the hot air out. Not that that matters for SSDs and FC water systems. I have the latter. My board is under water and so is my CPU. GPU were the only parts requiring air and those are going under water. So the heat impact would be negligible in my system.









~Ceadder


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wouldn't. The intake port is in the center of D5. So, a little less than half your coolant reserve would be untouchable by the draw of the D5 when running low on coolant. Whereas if you mount it upright, 100% of your reserve is flowing through the Inlet. If mounting at the top of your system is your goal, I would rethink that and try to get it upright, even if it required a smaller Reservoir tube.


Pretty much what he said. There was a link I referred to in my post that explained the best way to deal with horizontal mounting:
Quote:


> Loops with sideways reservoirs are usually best filled and bled with the case flipped up on the back/front so that the reservoir is facing with the top up. Just make sure that when it's tilted up like that the pump is directly after and below the fill-level of the res. Then, once you have the loop filled and bled, put the case upright.


----------



## 0xzz

can i power my ek xres revo d5 pwm pump with this while filling/bleeding my system?


----------



## Kimir

yes.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> yes.


ok but i just noticed that my "molex-to-wallplug" adapter apparently has no grounding connection on the pin next to the 12V line:



so i cant use it right??


----------



## Kimir

Then, move the other ground in it's place.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Then, move the other ground in it's place.


How? I dont have the tools to get the cables out of these plugs


----------



## Kimir

Don't you have some thin tweezers to get it out, that's what I used before acquiring the tool.

With something thin enough and patience you should be able to get it out.


----------



## rsvette12

Tweezers will work with these forgiving connectors


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Don't you have some thin tweezers to get it out, that's what I used before acquiring the tool.
> 
> With something thin enough and patience you should be able to get it out.


no i dont have any tweezers








i will try to get the cable out somehow but i think i will just have to use my psu and carefully cover it with paper towels...


----------



## Kimir

If you leak tested properly before hand (with the air leak test method) there is no paper towel required.


----------



## funfordcobra

haha usually these molex are soo crappy, you can just pull them out.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> If you leak tested properly before hand (with the air leak test method) there is no paper towel required.


no i dont have any of these tools and parts, im just a poor student








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> haha usually these molex are soo crappy, you can just pull them out.


yeah one of the cables comes out the front sometimes when i disconnect it but not the back...


----------



## Costas

Use a small jeweller's screwdriver to press the tabs in on the pins - then just slide them right out.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Use a small jeweller's screwdriver to press the tabs in on the pins - then just slide them right out.


yeah i got it out using a small screwdriver but now one of the little "wings" that was holding it in place is bent and it wont stay in


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> yeah i got it out using a small screwdriver but now one of the little "wings" that was holding it in place is bent and it wont stay in


In fact the one bent is good it's the other one that you need to gently bent it out.


----------



## X1XNobleX1X

Hello!

I'm in the planning stage of water cooling my system. I'm using a 900D .

Here is the list I have come up with from comments and feedback I have received.

*PC Case Gear - Shared Shopping Cart*
8 x EK ACF 13/19mm Compression Fitting Elox Black - *$9.00ea*
1 x EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM Pump - *$129.00ea*
1 x EK Ekoolant EVO Blood Red Concentrate 100ml Coolant - *$15.00ea*
1 x EK RES X3 250 Reservoir - *$69.00ea*
1 x EK CoolStream XE 480 Quad Radiator - *$149.00ea*
1 x PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing Black 1/2ID 3/4OD 3m - *$35.00ea*
1 x EK Supremacy EVO X99 CPU Waterblock Full Nickel - *$99.00ea*
*Total: $568.00* - _@pccasegear.com 16/01/2016_

https://www.pccasegear.com/sc/UjcU

I had two 480 rads previously, but apparently this would be overkill for just the CPU. May watercool my GPUs in the future, but no yet.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> In fact the one bent is good it's the other one that you need to gently bent it out.


i dont really understand how this will help me...


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X1XNobleX1X*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I'm in the planning stage of water cooling my system. I'm using a 900D .
> 
> Here is the list I have come up with from comments and feedback I have received.
> 
> *PC Case Gear - Shared Shopping Cart*
> 8 x EK ACF 13/19mm Compression Fitting Elox Black - *$9.00ea*
> 1 x EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM Pump - *$129.00ea*
> 1 x EK Ekoolant EVO Blood Red Concentrate 100ml Coolant - *$15.00ea*
> 1 x EK RES X3 250 Reservoir - *$69.00ea*
> 1 x EK CoolStream XE 480 Quad Radiator - *$149.00ea*
> 1 x PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing Black 1/2ID 3/4OD 3m - *$35.00ea*
> 1 x EK Supremacy EVO X99 CPU Waterblock Full Nickel - *$99.00ea*
> *Total: $568.00* - _@pccasegear.com 16/01/2016_
> 
> https://www.pccasegear.com/sc/UjcU
> 
> I had two 480 rads previously, but apparently this would be overkill for just the CPU. May watercool my GPUs in the future, but no yet.


Make sure to post photos







but what fans are you going to use EK Vadar fans?


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> i dont really understand how this will help me...


what he means is that its supposed to bent so it can latch on the the connector. And that if one of your wing are flat, you need to bend it to its prior position


----------



## dilster97

Since i've two GTX 980 KPEs and i want to connect the second card to the existing loop, i will need the TRIPLE terminal block right (due to motherboard spacing and slot speeds)?
^ https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi

Would i need to pick up one of the blanking plates as well?
^ https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-blank-parallel


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since i've two GTX 980 KPEs and i want to connect the second card to the existing loop, i will need the TRIPLE terminal block right (due to motherboard spacing and slot speeds)?
> ^ https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi
> 
> Would i need to pick up one of the blanking plates as well?
> ^ https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-blank-parallel


Yes


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> i dont really understand how this will help me...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> what he means is that its supposed to bent so it can latch on the the connector. And that if one of your wing are flat, you need to bend it to its prior position


Exactly











The 2 little wings are there to secure the pin in place.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Exactly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 little wings are there to secure the pin in place.


Yeah i know how it works but one of the wings on my connector is flat and the other one is bent inwards and i dont have any tools that are small enough to get behind them and pull them outwards. I could push the one thats already bent inwards further in to push the one that is straight out and have at least one of them hold it in place


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> Yeah i know how it works but one of the wings on my connector is flat and the other one is bent inwards and i dont have any tools that are small enough to get behind them and pull them outwards. I could push the one thats already bent inwards further in to push the one that is straight out and have at least one of them hold it in place


Can you take a picture of it?


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Can you take a picture of it?




i cant take a better picture than that, my camera is not the best


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i cant take a better picture than that, my camera is not the best


I see now! It's really deep in the pin! Maybe the smallest jewellers flat head screwdriver could help take it out. But it won't be easy


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> 
> 
> i cant take a better picture than that, my camera is not the best


If You have a needle You can use it to bend the wing out


----------



## ivoryg37

Does anyone have a photo with the new EK D5 Revo 140 or 100 mounted on an EK 240 radiator? I'm trying to get some measurements to decide if I should get the the 140 or 100 for my caselabs s3. I've been using the DDC for awhile but thinking of switching to the D5 for the reliability since i've had 2 mcp35x die on me in 1 year for some reason. This is currently how I have my rig setup and trying to see if I should get the 140 or 100 to get about the same height once mounted on the rad since I don't want my reservoir sitting too high



EDIT: I may go with the 100, I sort of found a close enough eye visual of the EK D5 mounted with the uni mount on a 360 rad here http://www.overclock.net/t/1575339/project-bloodybear-define-s-build-log

EDIT2: On second thought it seems that build is using a thicker EK cap so I may go with the 140


----------



## Edge0fsanity

heres my old setup with a d5 revo 140 mounted to a xe 240


----------



## 0xzz

so im currently bleeding my system, but i dont know if my pump is working correctly. its a ek xres revo d5 pwm and i have only the molex plug connected, not the pwm plug. i got most of the air out but my pump is running suspiciosly quiet. dont get me wrong, i love how quiet it is but i expected it to be at least noticeable. i can only hear it when i press my ear against it and even when i put my finger on it it doesnt vibrate at all.
is this normal? i read somewhere that with only the molex plug connected the pump runs at 60%, i expected it to vibrate more at 60%...


----------



## Wrecker66

guys please help....

i don't know what i need to get to connect my cards...

EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Parallel or EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Serial? what is the difference? i'm using the Z77x up7 board. or do i need to get something else? cards are amd 290



edit: ok i found out the difference....but now i'm confused what i need to get... triple bridge with EK-FC Link?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> so im currently bleeding my system, but i dont know if my pump is working correctly. its a ek xres revo d5 pwm and i have only the molex plug connected, not the pwm plug. i got most of the air out but my pump is running suspiciosly quiet. dont get me wrong, i love how quiet it is but i expected it to be at least noticeable. i can only hear it when i press my ear against it and even when i put my finger on it it doesnt vibrate at all.
> is this normal? i read somewhere that with only the molex plug connected the pump runs at 60%, i expected it to vibrate more at 60%...


my revo d5 was pretty much silent at anything under 80%. Its a quiet pump.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> my revo d5 was pretty much silent at anything under 80%. Its a quiet pump.


Ok i was afraid that it got a faulty pump or something like this...


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wrecker66*
> 
> guys please help....
> 
> i don't know what i need to get to connect my cards...
> 
> EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Parallel or EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Serial? what is the difference? i'm using the Z77x up7 board. or do i need to get something else? cards are amd 290
> 
> 
> 
> edit: ok i found out the difference....but now i'm confused what i need to get... triple bridge with EK-FC Link?


Jarane! Sta ima?

You don't want the *bridge* you want the *terminal*:

Acetal:
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-serial-csq

Acrylic:
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-serial-plexi

The bridge is for the CSQ blocks, the ones that have the circles on them like this: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-titan-x-nickel-original-csq


----------



## Wrecker66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wrecker66*
> 
> guys please help....
> 
> i don't know what i need to get to connect my cards...
> 
> EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Parallel or EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Serial? what is the difference? i'm using the Z77x up7 board. or do i need to get something else? cards are amd 290
> 
> 
> 
> edit: ok i found out the difference....but now i'm confused what i need to get... triple bridge with EK-FC Link?
> 
> 
> 
> Jarane! Sta ima?
> 
> You don't want the *bridge* you want the *terminal*:
> 
> Acetal:
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-serial-csq
> 
> Acrylic:
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-serial-plexi
> 
> The bridge is for the CSQ blocks, the ones that have the circles on them like this: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-titan-x-nickel-original-csq
Click to expand...

A evo mucim se s pizdarijama....hvala na pomoci.

Thank you! So i just take the terminal and that's it. Do i need anything else? This will work with my cards and mb? Is there any difference in performance with serial amd parallel?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wrecker66*
> 
> A evo mucim se s pizdarijama....hvala na pomoci.
> 
> Thank you! So i just take the terminal and that's it. Do i need anything else? This will work with my cards and mb? Is there any difference in performance with serial amd parallel?


Yeah, just the terminal. It will work with your blocks and motherboard since there is 1 "slot" spacing between each:



Check this out:






It's exactly how you do yours except 1 extra card.

Performance wise, eh. With 3 cards I don't think it matters too much but I'd wait for someone else to answer that. Personally, I always go parallel.


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> heres my old setup with a d5 revo 140 mounted to a xe 240


Exactly what I needed! Rep'ed, 140 looks to be the perfect height. Now I just got to figure out what fitting I will need to run my hardline tubing from the pump outlet straight to the rad


----------



## Wrecker66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Yeah, just the terminal. It will work with your blocks and motherboard since there is 1 "slot" spacing between each:
> 
> 
> 
> Check this out:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's exactly how you do yours except 1 extra card.
> 
> Performance wise, eh. With 3 cards I don't think it matters too much but I'd wait for someone else to answer that. Personally, I always go parallel.


Tnx you sir! You have been very helpful! I will order one tommarow. Im near Slovenija so i should get it soon.


----------



## jvillaveces

Does Ek have full cover blocks for the Asus 980ti Golden Edition? If not, are they planned?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since i've two GTX 980 KPEs and i want to connect the second card to the existing loop, i will need the TRIPLE terminal block right (due to motherboard spacing and slot speeds)?
> ^ https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi
> 
> Would i need to pick up one of the blanking plates as well?
> ^ https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-blank-parallel
> 
> 
> 
> Yes
Click to expand...

No. You can get Triple slot in dual GPU right? Or is that specifically Acetal only?









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No. You can get Triple slot in dual GPU right? Or is that specifically Acetal only?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No, not with the slot spacing he's identifying on his picture. He needs the Triple with the blank


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Does Ek have full cover blocks for the Asus 980ti Golden Edition? If not, are they planned?


We don't plan on doing a block for this card.


----------



## X1XNobleX1X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> Make sure to post photos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but what fans are you going to use EK Vadar fans?


Is this a good selection of parts that I should go with? Will there need to be much maintenance? I would like to have a no maintenance system, but I'm not sure that's possible.

Yes, I'm using Vadar fans, which I have already purchased.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X1XNobleX1X*
> 
> Will there need to be much maintenance? I would like to have a no maintenance system, but I'm not sure that's possible.


If you're going with colored coolant, there will definitely be need for maintenance. Generally its recommended to drain, flush and refill every 6 to 9 months.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> If you're going with colored coolant, there will definitely be need for maintenance. Generally its recommended to drain, flush and refill every 6 to 9 months.


WHOA. It's African-American coolant.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X1XNobleX1X*
> 
> Is this a good selection of parts that I should go with? Will there need to be much maintenance? I would like to have a no maintenance system, but I'm not sure that's possible.
> 
> Yes, I'm using Vadar fans, which I have already purchased.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> If you're going with colored coolant, there will definitely be need for maintenance. Generally its recommended to drain, flush and refill every 6 to 9 months.


You can do your maintenance on a yearly basis....6 months is overkill

Zero maintenance system is impossible when you go custom


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> If you're going with colored coolant, there will definitely be need for maintenance. Generally its recommended to drain, flush and refill every 6 to 9 months.
> 
> 
> 
> WHOA. It's African-American coolant.
Click to expand...

Rofl!


----------



## 0xzz

so i finally finished leak testing and when i turned my system on i realized that my pump (xres revo d5 pwm) was definitely not running at 60% while filling/bleeding my loop. my pc is currently sitting right next to me with the sidepanels removed so i expect everything to be more noticeable but when i run my pump at 45% i start hearing a fairly high frequency whining noise, is this normal??
currently running my pump at 30-35% and it is completely silent but someone mentioned their pump being silent at 60% so i was wondering if my pump is faulty.

these are the parts of my loop:
xres revo d5 pwm
gigabyte g1 980ti monoblock + backplate
asus maximus hero viii monoblock
coolstream pe 360 and 240
corsair sp120 quiet pwm fans

water temp in idle is 24-26°, cpu idle 32, vrm idle 31, gpu idle 26. any suggestions on what speed i should run it for best cooling and low noise?
sorry if those questions sound stupid, its my first loop and i want to make sure everything is set up good









Regards


----------



## Maxxamillion

Does anyone know if the new EK pwm pumps work correctly with fan controllers?


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maxxamillion*
> 
> Does anyone know if the new EK pwm pumps work correctly with fan controllers?


If your fan controller has a pump connector.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> If your fan controller has a pump connector.


There's no such thing as a "pump connector".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maxxamillion*
> 
> Does anyone know if the new EK pwm pumps work correctly with fan controllers?


Depends on the fan controller, its needs to be able to handle the current of the pump of your choosing. Secondly, if its a pwm pump, you need a pwm controller.


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> There's no such thing as a "pump connector".
> Depends on the fan controller, its needs to be able to handle the current of the pump of your choosing. Secondly, if its a pwm pump, you need a pwm controller.


correction 4pin header. sorry


----------



## Maxxamillion

I'm using the Aquaero 6 XT I should have added.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> correction 4pin header. sorry


A fan controller having a 4pin connector doesn't necessarily mean it has PWM control, I believe there were quite a few made that had 4pins and just used voltage control.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maxxamillion*
> 
> I'm using the Aquaero 6 XT I should have added.


Should work perfectly.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> correction 4pin header. sorry
> 
> 
> 
> A fan controller having a 4pin connector doesn't necessarily mean it has PWM control, I believe there were quite a few made that had 4pins and just used voltage control.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Maxxamillion*
> 
> *I'm using the Aquaero 6 XT I should have added.*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *Should work perfectly.*
Click to expand...

No it shouldn't . . . . It _might_ work half assed, once in a while, at best, . . . . . but don't even count on that.

We've been thru the PWM D5 with the A6 about a million times over at this point, and everything you could want to learn about why all the brandings of the PWM D5 with the exception of the AquaComputer branded offering, don't work properly with the A6 can be found in the Aquaero owners club thread.

There's more to it than just setting the control mode for the applicable fan channel that the D5 is connected to, to PWM control mode.

To make a PWM D5, (other than the AC branded one) work with an Aquaero 6 in PWM control mode, you need to add a little circuitry to the 4 pin connector.

Here's a little copy-paste from another post to explain it a little better and a link to the full post:

Explanation post:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/6410#post_24748004

Some pics of the mod to the 4 pin connector you'll need to make PWM D5's work with the A6 from that post:

A close up of the mod with heatshrink to keep it tidy.



With the heatshrink pulled back . . you can see that it's a 2.2K ohm resistor, (red/red/red) since it's for a dual pump



Here's a close-up that you'll see posted in several threads and posts here on OCN . . this was also for a dual pump setup, but on a scratch made splitter cable. This was one of my first mods when the A6 first came out and turned out not to work with PWM D5's as it came out of the box.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> No it shouldn't . . . . It _might_ work half assed, once in a while, at best.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> We've been thru the PWM D5 with the A6 about a million times over at this point and everything you could want to learn about why all the brandings of the PWM D5 with the exception of the AquaComputer branded offering, don't work properly with the A6 can be found in the Aquaero owners club thread.
> 
> To make a PWM D5, (other than the AC branded one) work with an Aquaero 6 in PWM control mode, you need to add a little circuitry to the 4 pin connector.
> 
> Here's a little copy-paste from another post to explain it a little better and a link to the full post:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/6410#post_24748004
> 
> A close up of the mod with heatshrink to keep it tidy.
> 
> 
> 
> With the heatshrink pulled back . . you can see that it's a 2.2K ohm resistor, (red/red/red) since it's for a dual pump
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a close-up that you'll see posted in several threads and posts here on OCN . . this was also for a dual pump setup, but on a scratch made splitter cable. This was one of my first mods when the A6 first came out and turned out not to work with PWM D5's as it came out of the box.


My bad, I assumed (wrongly) because I saw pwm pumps ran off a 6XT before.

I even read your post on how to mod the connector before, can't believe I forgot.


----------



## seross69

Does any one know the correct extenders I need to use with a EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP on the top to make sure it seals good because mine leaks air?? @akira749 any help here?


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Does any one know the correct extenders I need to use with a EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP on the top to make sure it seals good because mine leaks air?? @akira749 any help here?


i asked the same thing a few pages back
these will work:
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-black


----------



## Cozmo85

Im looking at doing my first watercooling thats not an AIO. I am looking at the EK X360 kit but want the pump and res to be one unit. What is needed for me to do this?

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-kit-x360

EK-RES X3 150 is the res and EK-DDC 3.2 PWM Elite Edition is the pump

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-plexi-incl-pump

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-res-x3-150


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Im looking at doing my first watercooling thats not an AIO. I am looking at the EK X360 kit but want the pump and res to be one unit. What is needed for me to do this?
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-kit-x360
> 
> EK-RES X3 150 is the res and EK-DDC 3.2 PWM Elite Edition is the pump
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-plexi-incl-pump
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-res-x3-150


https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xres-100-ddc-mx-acetal

Unfortunately, EK doesn't sell the body alone(I think), but you can just unscrew the smaller reservoir and screw in the one that comes with your kit.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Does any one know the correct extenders I need to use with a EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP on the top to make sure it seals good because mine leaks air?? @akira749 any help here?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> i asked the same thing a few pages back
> these will work:
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-black


This ^^


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> i asked the same thing a few pages back
> these will work:
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-black


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> This ^^


Thanks a lot guys know this had been ask but could not find it


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xres-100-ddc-mx-acetal
> 
> Unfortunately, EK doesn't sell the body alone(I think), but you can just unscrew the smaller reservoir and screw in the one that comes with your kit.


Thanks!


----------



## 742db7736

Hello all, I have the ek xres 100 3.2 ddc mx with pwm control. I have read on other posts that the d5 pumps run at 60% when not plugged in to pwm anyone know if the ddc pumps do the same?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *742db7736*
> 
> Hello all, I have the ek xres 100 3.2 ddc mx with pwm control. I have read on other posts that the d5 pumps run at 60% when not plugged in to pwm anyone know if the ddc pumps do the same?


DDCs are like PWM fans, they run at max with no PWM connection.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *742db7736*
> 
> Hello all, I have the ek xres 100 3.2 ddc mx with pwm control. I have read on other posts that the d5 pumps run at 60% when not plugged in to pwm anyone know if the ddc pumps do the same?


my d5 runs at around 10% when not plugged in to pwm, why is that??


----------



## iBruce

Instead of a thousand word equivalent, thought I'd simply throw up this pic with no descriptive.

It's easy to understand what's happening here, I've decided after much deliberation to use the ASUS mobo box as an open air chassis and the CaseLabs S8S to provide a continuous vortex of cold air circulating throughout the office.

Haha, actually I'm sound testing components and this 120mmx38mm Sanyo fan (red arrow) just failed the first round of noise damping at the 35% power and 625rpm mark. I thought it might, since at 330grams it's a very heavy fan, four Nexus silicon grommets simply don't provide enough damping area to absorb the extreme noise energy this fan creates.

It needs more cowbell.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/sanyo mount_zpsrrueyh9w.png.html


----------



## X1XNobleX1X

*PC Case Gear - Shared Shopping Cart*
1 x XSPC PETG Bending Rubber - *$4.00ea*
1 x EK CoolStream XE 480 Quad Radiator - *$149.00ea*
6 x XSPC PETG Tubing Clear 14/10mm 50cm 2 Pack - *$6.00ea*
1 x Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black L-Block - *$12.00ea*
1 x EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM Pump - *$129.00ea*
1 x EK Ekoolant Pastel Concentrate 250ml White - *$22.00ea*
1 x EK RES X3 250 Reservoir - *$69.00ea*
1 x EK Supremacy EVO X99 CPU Waterblock Full Nickel - *$99.00ea*
1 x Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Mini Valve - *$29.00ea*
13 x XSPC G1/4 Chrome to 14/10mm PETG Triple Seal Fitting - *$6.00ea*
*Total: $627.00* - _@pccasegear.com 19/01/2016_


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X1XNobleX1X*
> 
> *PC Case Gear - Shared Shopping Cart*
> 1 x XSPC PETG Bending Rubber - *$4.00ea*
> 1 x EK CoolStream XE 480 Quad Radiator - *$149.00ea*
> 6 x XSPC PETG Tubing Clear 14/10mm 50cm 2 Pack - *$6.00ea*
> 1 x Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black L-Block - *$12.00ea*
> 1 x EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM Pump - *$129.00ea*
> 1 x EK Ekoolant Pastel Concentrate 250ml White - *$22.00ea*
> 1 x EK RES X3 250 Reservoir - *$69.00ea*
> 1 x EK Supremacy EVO X99 CPU Waterblock Full Nickel - *$99.00ea*
> 1 x Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Mini Valve - *$29.00ea*
> 13 x XSPC G1/4 Chrome to 14/10mm PETG Triple Seal Fitting - *$6.00ea*
> *Total: $627.00* - _@pccasegear.com 19/01/2016_


I have (4) of those parts, Good Stuff.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/sunday-animation-dopeness-111_zpsbwhcsff9.gif.html


----------



## X1XNobleX1X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I have (4) of those parts, Good Stuff.


Haha!

Thanks for that, would there be anything I should change?

The other thing is the tubing runs, this is what I think (May be a little hard to understand, but you get the idea.)

I'm going to have two rads one in the top and one in the basement.

The purple line is a drain tap.



On another note, what is the best way to clean radiators? I heard using using distilled water that is boiled with vinegar works.

Also, what would be the best way to fill the res.


----------



## SteezyTN

So I got back 4 140ER's from PPCS a few weeks ago from RMA. I know for a fact one makes a clicking sound when ran at max speed, and I believe one more does too. Two of them are perfectly fine. Is this a common thing now? I know PPCS is just the company that sells them, but I think its crap that I have to pay to send something back that isn't my fault. This is my second time having to pay return shipping for the 120ER and 140ER varients.


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I got back 4 140ER's from PPCS a few weeks ago from RMA. I know for a fact one makes a clicking sound when ran at max speed, and I believe one more does too. Two of them are perfectly fine. Is this a common thing now? I know PPCS is just the company that sells them, but I think its crap that I have to pay to send something back that isn't my fault. This is my second time having to pay return shipping for the 120ER and 140ER varients.


My first Predator had a fan that had a very loud click to it, got my second one and this one has a faint that has a faint bearing noise to it. I am starting to think these fans have issues with there bearings. I had read online about others having abnormal noises with these fans.

What also funny is the fan making the odd noise at low rpm you can visually look at it and see it is def not spinning as fast as the others, I am going to try and see if EK will replace just this fan for me who knows.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quick question - why have EK-AF 45° Angle fittings (black) disappeared from the EKWB store? I was planning to use them in my upcoming custom loop







Will they be available anytime soon? Or ever? Just out of stock, confirmed


----------



## X1XNobleX1X

Another question that I have is will the EK EKoolant Patel be ok with XSPC PETG tubing?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X1XNobleX1X*
> 
> Another question that I have is will the EK EKoolant Patel be ok with XSPC PETG tubing?


Pretty sure that is just rebadged Mayhems. Should be fine.


----------



## dcatvn

hi guys, do you know the dimensions of acrylic tube for EK-Res X3 multitop, I forgot to purchase this and I don't know if I can use my existing acrylic tube for this. Or is this tube not necessary?

Thank you


----------



## X1XNobleX1X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Pretty sure that is just rebadged Mayhems. Should be fine.


Thanks!

Last question, is this list of parts good choices? Is there anything that should be changed?

*PC Case Gear - Shared Shopping Cart*
1 x XSPC PETG Bending Rubber - *$4.00ea*
1 x EK Supremacy EVO X99 CPU Waterblock Nickel - *$79.00ea*
2 x EK CoolStream XE 480 Quad Radiator - *$149.00ea*
6 x XSPC PETG Tubing Clear 14/10mm 50cm 2 Pack - *$6.00ea*
1 x EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM Pump - *$129.00ea*
1 x EK Ekoolant Pastel Concentrate 250ml White - *$22.00ea*
1 x EK RES X3 250 Reservoir - *$69.00ea*
12 x XSPC G1/4 Chrome to 14/10mm PETG Triple Seal Fitting - *$6.00ea*
1 x Alphacool 2 Way Ball Valve G1/4 Chrome - *$9.00ea*
*Total: $718.00* - _@pccasegear.com 19/01/2016_


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcatvn*
> 
> hi guys, do you know the dimensions of acrylic tube for EK-Res X3 multitop, I forgot to purchase this and I don't know if I can use my existing acrylic tube for this. Or is this tube not necessary?
> 
> Thank you


The internal tube is 16/12 tubing that is threaded with an oring. If you want to use the top as an inlet you should really have it.


----------



## dcatvn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The internal tube is 16/12 tubing that is threaded with an oring. If you want to use the top as an inlet you should really have it.


Hi do you know if I can get it from performance pc or any online vendors? I can't find this item.

Thank you


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcatvn*
> 
> Hi do you know if I can get it from performance pc or any online vendors? I can't find this item.
> 
> Thank you


Of course. Google EK res internal tube.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcatvn*
> 
> Hi do you know if I can get it from performance pc or any online vendors? I can't find this item.
> 
> Thank you


EK-RES X3 - Internal Tube 12/16 - 40mm


----------



## dcatvn

thanks a lot everyone


----------



## enkur

Well joining the EK club
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump) EK-XRES-140-REVO-D5-PWM 1 $159.98
EK-FC Titan X/GTX980 Ti Waterblock - Nickel EK-FC-TITANX-NP 1 $125.99
EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm Fan) Vertical EK-UNI-PUMPBK-120VERT 1 $13.49
EK-Ekoolant EVO Blood RED (concentrate 100mL) EKOOLANT-EVO-100-RD 1 $9.99
EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Water Block - Nickel/Plexi EK-SUPREMACY-EVO-NP 1 $77.95

re-using my old Thermochill PA120.3 rad, Koolance QDC VL3N compression fittings and have tons of left over Tygon R-3603 ID 1/2 OD 3/4 tubing.

Can someone tell me if there is advantage to using the EK M8G monoblock? I figured I save another $60 by not going that route.

My system specs are in the sig.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Well joining the EK club
> EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump) EK-XRES-140-REVO-D5-PWM 1 $159.98
> EK-FC Titan X/GTX980 Ti Waterblock - Nickel EK-FC-TITANX-NP 1 $125.99
> EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm Fan) Vertical EK-UNI-PUMPBK-120VERT 1 $13.49
> EK-Ekoolant EVO Blood RED (concentrate 100mL) EKOOLANT-EVO-100-RD 1 $9.99
> EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Water Block - Nickel/Plexi EK-SUPREMACY-EVO-NP 1 $77.95
> 
> re-using my old Thermochill PA120.3 rad, Koolance QDC VL3N compression fittings and have tons of left over Tygon R-3603 ID 1/2 OD 3/4 tubing.
> 
> *Can someone tell me if there is advantage to using the EK M8G monoblock? I figured I save another $60 by not going that route.*
> 
> My system specs are in the sig.


Yeah, you save $60 since the VRMs don't get that hot and you make it easier to resell the block in case you ever want to go a different route in the future.


----------



## enkur

Thanks I think thats the strongest argument to not use monoblock is re-sale value.


----------



## Basiletech

I have been using the EK-Vardar F3-140ER for a little bit. One of my good buddy's told me about the NF-A14 which one do you think is better.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> I have been using the EK-Vardar F3-140ER for a little bit. One of my good buddy's told me about the NF-A14 which one do you think is better.


They are so close to each other you might as well flip a coin. Noctua has arguably more to offer out of the box, but also costs more money.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I got back 4 140ER's from PPCS a few weeks ago from RMA. I know for a fact one makes a clicking sound when ran at max speed, and I believe one more does too. Two of them are perfectly fine. Is this a common thing now? I know PPCS is just the company that sells them, but I think its crap that I have to pay to send something back that isn't my fault. This is my second time having to pay return shipping for the 120ER and 140ER varients.


I'm mailing PPCS right now to begin the RMA on my two 140mm Vardar ERs.

Made a video a couple months ago, the sonic issue for me was a high frequency chirping fluttering sound, apparent both close up and at sitting distance. Since I'm doing all my component sound testing this week, it's a good time to take care of this issue.

Hoping I can get (2) 140ERs that are just as silent as my (6) Vardar 120ERs which I love.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> I have been using the EK-Vardar F3-140ER for a little bit. One of my good buddy's told me about the *NF-A14* which one do you think is better.


Is that the Noctua fan that comes (2) packaged along with the NH-D15?

Got two of these with the heat sink, didn't plan on using them for anything, the Vardars look so much better.









Ahhh food just arrived for sound testing, starving.









Steak Calzone


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Is that the Noctua fan that comes (2) packaged along with the NH-D15?


No, that's the NF-A15.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No, that's the NF-A15.


Yep, you're right, just opened them up, no idea what to do with the NF-A15s. The color just doesn't go with anything.


----------



## 742db7736

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> DDCs are like PWM fans, they run at max with no PWM connection.


Ok. Thanks


----------



## iBruce

Kind of frustrating, ok it's really frustrating, the recall on the Vardar 140s didn't seem to solve the noise issue for many customers, sounds like some are moving through multiple RMAs before they find one or two 140ERs here and there without the chirping.

Geez EK, I really fell in love with the Vardar 120ERs and from that point on, purchased two EK XE 240 rads and then an EK CE 280 rad never anticipating there would be any sonic issues with the 140 fans.

So now I'm heavily invested in time, money, and build aesthetics, to make changes now to another 140mm fan would not make any sense.

I have the Noctua 150mm pair here that arrived with the heat sink, might as well sound test them today, none of the mounts line up 120mm holes and 150mm fans but I could always silicon rad gasket-velcro soft mount these two to the EK rad and Flex Bay 280 mount.

The CaseLabs grill and demciflex will hide some of the mismatched aesthetic.

I don't know what to do&#8230; frustrated.









I mean EK if this was a 2ndary rig, with old parts it would not be such a big deal, but this is a primary inaudible build, check my signature, IN-AUDIBLE.

I sent the 140ER video to PPCS, see what they recommend to do from here.









Now nausea sets in stomach ache, not sure if its from the 140 Vardars, or the calzone.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4841_zpstofozhsp.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4842_zpsygyvsrhe.jpg.html


----------



## Mattmax

How tall is the EK-RES X3 250 with an assambled multiport top?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattmax*
> 
> How tall is the EK-RES X3 250 with an assambled multiport top?


272mm without fittings.


----------



## Mattmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> 272mm without fittings.


Thank, when you assemble the multiport to the EK-RES X3 do both side holes (for the fitting) look to the same side?

Perhaps a foto would be nice ;-)


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattmax*
> 
> Thank, when you assemble the multiport to the EK-RES X3 do both side holes (for the fitting) look to the same side?


Yes, it's a perfectly symmetrical part cut either longitudinally or down the midsagittal plane.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4845_zpsgyzuyp7v.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4844_zpshelltdgi.jpg.html


----------



## Mattmax

Thanks, I saw different single picture from the multiport top, but I'm looking for a picture where the top is assembled?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattmax*
> 
> Thanks, I saw different single picture from the multiport top, but I'm looking for a picture where the top is assembled?


OK, I see what you mean and yes, when assembled the side ports for multi top and reservoir bottom do face the same direction.

I think that's what you're asking.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4846_zpsnxfwcebt.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4847_zpsefw4aprq.jpg.html


----------



## Mattmax

Yes, that is the picture I was looking for....


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattmax*
> 
> Yes, that is the picture I was looking for....


Doo be doo be doo.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Doo be doo be doo.


Strangers in the night! Two lonely people, we were strangers in the night!


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Strangers in the night! Two lonely people, we were strangers in the night!


...Exchanging glances

Wondering in the night, what were the chances...


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> OK, I see what you mean and yes, when assembled the side ports for multi top and reservoir bottom do face the same direction.
> 
> I think that's what you're asking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4846_zpsnxfwcebt.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4847_zpsefw4aprq.jpg.html


wow thats nice, i have a multiport top on my xres revo d5 and the side ports of the top are facing in the complete opposite direction of the pump in/outlet...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattmax*
> 
> Thank, when you assemble the multiport to the EK-RES X3 do both side holes (for the fitting) look to the same side?
> 
> Perhaps a foto would be nice ;-)


There is quite a range of adjust-ability in the direction the ports face. They can face the same way of the opposite way.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Like This?

TCO


----------



## Mattmax

another question.... ;-)
how much space is there between the horizontal ports 1+2 to the ground, when the res is fixed with the res-holders horizontal to a groundplate


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattmax*
> 
> another question.... ;-)
> how much space is there between the horizontal ports 1+2 to the ground, when the res is fixed with the res-holders horizontal to a groundplate


Nope, One question only sucker.

Joking ... its about 20mm or just slightly under according to my callipers.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> ...Exchanging glances
> 
> Wondering in the night, what were the chances...


Lol it was a little before my time but good song.









New EKWB theme song maybe....


----------



## funfordcobra

It baffles me that they continue to make those horrid colors on such popular fans. I mean those colors don't go with anything anytime.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> It baffles me *that they (Noctua)* continue to make those horrid colors on such popular fans. I mean those colors don't go with anything anytime.


And the Sanyo Denki Silent Type-S 9S1212M4011s are so much more decibel efficient than the Noctuas. A nice alternative for inaudible builds.










I really have no idea why anyone buys Noctuas fans and suffers with that color, or buys the extremely loud versions in black and dark brown, when ideal low rpm fans in a nice monotone have existed for years. Industrial version is a marketing ploy on their part, the real enterprise buyers do not purchase Noctua fans, they purchase Delta and Nidec, and Sanyo and Panaflo.

http://www.sanyo-denki.com/

It must be the packaging and accessory bundle and the unboxing experience, some enthusiasts really enjoy that which Noctua offers and their customer support is phenomenal. The Noctua heat sinks are outstanding also.

But after all that you're really only left with in my opinion a substandard fan molded in an ugly aesthetic.

But this is the EK club so don't want to delve any deeper than that.

I prefer Sanyo Denki and the EK Vardar 120ERs.

I'm only hanging on by a thread to my Vardar 140ERs, beginning what will most likely become a multi RMA experience tomorrow, thankful I only need quantity (2) for my build.

a pic of some newly arrived Sanyo fans from last year with my then CaseLabs S8 two-tone with EK Xres in the front window, sniff sniff, I miss that build so much.









Check out that SSD RAID0 positioning, yea it was a bit odd at an angle like that, but I loved it.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_1653_zps6gamurvv.jpg.html

The day we said goodbye to the Mercury S8, we took photos, it was a very sad goodbye driving him over to his new home with my future father in law, and the EK Xres in the front window waving back at us, still looking for a place to call home.


----------



## Mattmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Nope, One question only sucker.
> 
> Joking ... its about 20mm or just slightly under according to my callipers.


Thanks, but as I read your answer I thought 20mm is a little bit to small. So, at home I designed it and my information is that the space is somthing about 53mm!


----------



## surfinchina

I stuck my res on with sticky tape so there's not a lot of space.
I really like my cheapo fill port though - just an extender with a cap on it. Got to lie my computer flat...

I also like the EK vardar 120er, but also have problems with ticks. I had to set the speed profiles super carefully with my corsair link to avoid the noisy revs.

Oh!
Same with my brand new pump! Between 2100 and 2600 revs it has a super annoying drone, like a resonance.
Anyone else had this problem??
My last D5 was totally silent at all revs...


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> I stuck my res on with sticky tape so there's not a lot of space.
> I really like my cheapo fill port though - just an extender with a cap on it. Got to lie my computer flat...
> 
> I also like the EK vardar 120er, but also have problems with ticks. I had to set the speed profiles super carefully with my corsair link to avoid the noisy revs.
> 
> Oh!
> Same with my brand new pump! Between 2100 and 2600 revs it has a super annoying drone, like a resonance.
> Anyone else had this problem??
> My last D5 was totally silent at all revs...


yeah i have the same problem with my brand new xres revo d5 pwm, between 30 and 45% speed there is a very deep background noise and above 50% (2200rpm and above) there is a very high pitched background noise. at 48 to 50% (2100rpm) the sound changes from low to high so it hits a frequency it cant really hear so i just leave it at that but i was a little disappointed...
i dont hear any "pumping noises" until like 70% speed but there is always some kind of background "whining". Glad im not the only one with this problem.


----------



## iBruce

@surfchina, nice res mount mod, I like that. I may be doing a fan silicon rad gasket velcro soft mount soon.









@surfchina and Oxzz, both you guys.









Never heard any high frequency sounds from my two D5s except when some air remained within the pump top while filling the loop.

Mostly the noises I heard at first were low frequency hum and rumble which drives me nuts so I isolated my D5 to complete silence using two EK UNI mounts and four 3/4inch sorbothane feet.

It's not so difficult to isolate a D5 to complete inaudibility if you simply make certain that no portion of the pump or pump top make any hard contact with any part of your case or any other component part other than the isolation material you are using.

In my set up those isolation materials are the four sorbo feet mentioned above and soft tubing filled with coolant which also acts to absorb/isolate low frequency noise.

You have to look at what you are building, what components are in hard contact or hard communication, those components will transmit the noise energy and must be considered a single assembly when building.

In this second photo, my D5, EK plexi pump top, two monsoon fittings, and the AquaComputer thermal sensor are all in hard communication and are the "single assembly" that must be isolated. You also need to think of the direction of the forces, my assembly is simply resting on the sorbo feet and EK UNI mounts by gravity alone, no hard mounting allowed if you want absolute inaudibility.

That assembly does not make contact with any other component in the build except the noise absorbing sorbothane feet and soft tubing filled with coolant.

Does that mean my D5 is completely inaudible up to 100% power or 5000rpm? No, my set up in these photos is only inaudible up to 50% power or 3500rpm, but that's fine since with the short "CPU only" loop I'm running I never need to use the pump beyond 35% PWR, above that speed there is no cooling benefit for the CPU.

For those with larger longer loops including many more components that need to run an everyday D5 rotational speed above 50% power, then more robust noise-energy absorption can easily be designed, moving to larger diameter sorbothane feet, OR getting the material in sheets and cutting it custom to fit your setup.

Sound expensive? It's not too bad, The Sorbothane feet are a dollar each so $4. They make you buy a pack of 16, so save the extra 12 for the next build, I put 2 under the front of my keyboard, perfect for raising it up to just the right angle.

http://www.amazon.com/Sorbothane-No-Stain-Hemisphere-Non-skid-Adhesive/dp/B005I5PMC8/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1453392859&sr=8-15&keywords=sorbothane+hemispheres

And the two EK UNI mounts work extremely well. The D5 housing slips down into the hole in the EK mount and none of the D5 makes contact with the mount since that would violate







the rules of noise energy isolation and transmit the noise.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-uni-holder-d5-v3.html

These two pics show the sorbo feet "in action" and an overhead view of the single assembly that needed to be isolated.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3391_zpsqw0uxqjv.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3782_zps2hiqplnw.jpg.html


----------



## iBruce

These photos represent the very first D5 inaudible mount I completed. Using the same principles, along with an EK XRES this time, so reservoir-pump top-D5 and two fittings were the assembly to be isolated.

This time though I cut a 70mm hole in the CaseLabs Mercury S8 midchassis deck and slipped the D5 down inside the hole, so it acted exactly like the EK UNI mount, with again four sorbothane feet and a simple gravity mount. The XRES was also centered in the S8 front window as a feature.

The same Mercury S8 two tone case on the previous page above, that we let go to an extended family member.

These two pics the X-RES during pre-assembly with the sorbo feet already in place and a view from the lower chamber looking up at the isolated D5 pump.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/17283df9_IMG_9739_zpsvr0i0rkp.jpeg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/492d279e_IMG_9620_zpspqd1sxxy.jpeg.html


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> @surfchina, nice res mount mod, I like that. I may be doing a fan silicon rad gasket velcro soft mount soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @surfchina and Oxzz, both you guys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never heard any high frequency sounds from my two D5s except when some air remained within the pump top while filling the loop.
> 
> Mostly the noises I heard at first were low frequency hum and rumble which drives me nuts so I isolated my D5 to complete silence using two EK UNI mounts and four 3/4inch sorbothane feet.
> 
> It's not so difficult to isolate a D5 to complete inaudibility if you simply make certain that no portion of the pump or pump top make any hard contact with any part of your case or any other component part other than the isolation material you are using.
> 
> In my set up those isolation materials are the four sorbo feet mentioned above and soft tubing filled with coolant which also acts to absorb/isolate low frequency noise.
> 
> You have to look at what you are building, what components are in hard contact or hard communication, those components will transmit the noise energy and must be considered a single assembly when building. etc...


Hey Bruce thanks for the excellent reply!

It's set my mind at ease a bit.
My build is so tight that the transmission of vibration would be very easy between parts (my new theory), on account of them being so close together with short pipe runs.
Also I'm using a fair number of 90 degree fittings so there must be backpressure and turbulence at high pump revs.

I'm encouraged by your comment about pump speeds. Since I'm only cooling the CPU (even if it is the hottest one known to humankind), I'll try keeping the pump below 50% and see what it does to temps under load.

I also like my res mount. It works as a run between the back rad and the pump and keeps the arrangement a little bit tidy. I'd like it better if it was 40 or 50mm dia to frame the view better, but never mind.

Thanks again (rep)
Pete


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> These photos represent the very first D5 inaudible mount I completed. Using the same principles, along with an EK XRES this time, so reservoir-pump top-D5 and two fittings were the assembly to be isolated.
> 
> This time though I cut a 65mm hole in the CaseLabs Mercury S8 midchassis deck and slipped the D5 down inside the hole, so it acted exactly like the EK UNI mount, with again four sorbothane feet and a simple gravity mount. The XRES was also centered in the S8 front window as a feature.
> 
> The same Mercury S8 two tone case on the previous page above, that we let go to an extended family member.
> 
> These two pics the X-RES during pre-assembly with the sorbo feet already in place and a view from the lower chamber looking up at the isolated D5 pump.


i dont think this would work in my case. i have my xres mounted to a EK UNI Pump Bracket Vertical that sits on a corsair sp120 quiet edition fan in the bottom of my case.



i would have to remove the fan and put the sorbothane feet on the case floor and rely on my pump and the holder to balance on them. i dont know if i would trust that construction...


----------



## iBruce

Yea, having enough room in your build is important with a D5 isolation mod. Sorry I should have mentioned that guys, my mistake









This is the D5 isolation mount I'm designing for my current build, it will be my third, every build is a little bit different so pre-designing is always much easier than trying to retrofit, although it's not impossible.

I increased the diameter of the sorbo feet to 1.0 inch, considering the increased weight of the brand new EK XRES REVO and using the new EK vertical 120mm UNI mount.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4852_zpsirodz10h.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4856_zpsn9kqpaf0.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3852_zps98yfuqip.jpg.html

From the side view none of the EK horizontal UNI mount or feet will be visible, the D5 and XRES REVO will appear like they are hovering, thought that was kind of cool (pic below).









Also cutting another hole in this S8S midchassis deck, but this time instead of dropping a D5 down into it, moving the XRES reservoir cylinder tube and res top up through it from below with white LEDs and lining the cut hole with CaseLabs rubber U-Channel, should look pretty good when finished (I hope).









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3896_zpszqilrxsc.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3900_zpsa5llmyh0.jpg.html


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Yea, having enough room in your build is important with a D5 isolation mod. Sorry I should have mentioned that guys, my mistake


No problem. It's sort of obvious when you mention isolation.

I think another important point is to make sure there aren't any forces in the loop. The pipework needs to run as naturally as possible so that connections fall into their places rather than needing force.
Slight bends are good with my soft pipe because straight lines can transmit forces to the next part. That's my thinking anyway - without getting too technical about water hammer and turning this into an essay.

I'm actually really happy with the black pipe. I've used acrylic and clear pipe on my last build and they were both a lot worse at transmitting vibration. This stuff is super bendy, seals well and easy to install. It also looks good with my black and chrome theme.


----------



## Mads1

Does anyone know if the EK F3 fans are using black wires now instead of the naked R,Y,B at the back, i know they are sleeved to a certain point but want to know what they are on the hub connection.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Does anyone know if the EK F3 fans are using black wires now instead of the naked R,Y,B at the back, i know they are sleeved to a certain point but want to know what they are on the hub connection.



Black


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> 
> Black


Is it the same for the f3 120mm.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Is it the same for the f3 120mm.


Hmm I'm not sure.


----------



## iBruce

Hey guys, only the Vardar F4 120 ER and the Vardar F3 140 ER are all black wiring under the black sleeving at this time.









...also the all white version of the 120ER has white wiring underneath.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3722_zps5iqvxaud.jpg.html


----------



## kgtuning

Good to know, thank you.


----------



## 742db7736

Hello all, I was wondering if anybody knows how complicated it is to remove the blades from the EK Vardar fans?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattmax*
> 
> Thanks, but as I read your answer I thought 20mm is a little bit to small. So, at home I designed it and my information is that the space is somthing about 53mm!


I measured the gap using my calipers so unless I made a silly mistake it's accurate.
In your diagram you don't appear to take into account that the res body that the mounts clamp to is a smaller diameter than the end caps. 53mm is nearly as large as the res itself, the body is 60mm in diameter.

I don't have the res in front of me but when I get home I'll measure it again and post pics.

Although, now I think about it, there may be a difference between the bottom cap and multi port top cap, and I'm not sure which I measured. I may have misunderstood which you were asking about and measured the other.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Hello, friends. I think I have finished planning and writing up all necessary components for my upcoming first custom loop. I just want your final thoughts on this and tell me if I forgot something







My rig is a 5820K, 980Ti Superclocked and its all in a H440 case with a 850W PSU. Plus here is a crude sketch of the loop:


*Parts list:*

•EK-Supremacy EVO Acetal
•EK-FC Titan X Acetal
•EK-FC Titan X black backplate
•EK-UNI pump bracket (to mount the pump/res on the rad)
•EK-XRES 140 REVO D5 PWM pump/res combo
•EK-Coolstream PE 360 radiator
•EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm black (11 pcs.)
•EK-AF fitting 90° black (2 pcs.)
•EK-AF fitting 45° black (4 pcs.)
•PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT White tubing
•EK-AF T-splitter (for drain port)
•EK-AF extender 6mm (for drain port)
•EK-AF Ball valve 10mm
•EK-ATX Bridging plug
•EK-Coolant concentrate CLEAR
•EK-Cable Y-splitter 3fan PWM
•EK-Vardar F4-120ER White


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Yep, you're right, just opened them up, no idea what to do with the NF-A15s. The color just doesn't go with anything.


Send them to me.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Hello, friends. I think I have finished planning and writing up all necessary components for my upcoming first custom loop. I just want your final thoughts on this and tell me if I forgot something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My rig is a 5820K, 980Ti Superclocked and its all in a H440 case with a 850W PSU. Plus here is a crude sketch of the loop:
> 
> 
> *Parts list:*
> 
> •EK-Supremacy EVO Acetal
> •EK-FC Titan X Acetal
> •EK-FC Titan X black backplate
> •EK-UNI pump bracket (to mount the pump/res on the rad)
> •EK-XRES 140 REVO D5 PWM pump/res combo
> •EK-Coolstream PE 360 radiator
> •EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm black (11 pcs.)
> •EK-AF fitting 90° black (2 pcs.)
> •EK-AF fitting 45° black (4 pcs.)
> •PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT White tubing
> •EK-AF T-splitter (for drain port)
> •EK-AF extender 6mm (for drain port)
> •EK-AF Ball valve 10mm
> •EK-ATX Bridging plug
> •EK-Coolant concentrate CLEAR
> •EK-Cable Y-splitter 3fan PWM
> •EK-Vardar F4-120ER White


Yea, the one thing I'd suggest doing some more research on is the friggin' case . . . . .

IIRC, the H440 has an absolutely dismal reputation regarding air flow, resulting higher than expected temps, even with liquid cooling.

Users have mentioned 10 degree improvements when the top and front panels are removed for better air flow.

This isn't the only one, just one of the more recent ones, tangentially mentioned in the water cooling thread

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501208/nzxt-h440-laser-cutting-front-panel-and-top#post_22562303

If you're going to spend the money and put in the work to build a custom loop, do it in a case that will really let you reap the benefits of it.

There's a reason people don't build houses on quick sand.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yea, the one thing I'd suggest doing some more research on is the friggin' case . . . . .
> 
> IIRC, the H440 has an absolutely dismal reputation regarding air flow, resulting higher than expected temps, even with liquid cooling.
> 
> Users have mentioned 10 degree improvements when the top and front panels are removed for better air flow.
> 
> This isn't the only one, just one of the more recent ones, tangentially mentioned in the water cooling thread
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501208/nzxt-h440-laser-cutting-front-panel-and-top#post_22562303


Lady, I am ahead of you







Modifications have been made to top and front panels a while back...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yea, the one thing I'd suggest doing some more research on is the friggin' case . . . . .
> 
> IIRC, the H440 has an absolutely dismal reputation regarding air flow, resulting higher than expected temps, even with liquid cooling.
> 
> Users have mentioned 10 degree improvements when the top and front panels are removed for better air flow.
> 
> This isn't the only one, just one of the more recent ones, tangentially mentioned in the water cooling thread
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501208/nzxt-h440-laser-cutting-front-panel-and-top#post_22562303
> 
> 
> 
> Lady, I am ahead of you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modifications have been made to top and front panels a while back...
Click to expand...

Looking good . . .
















Glad to see you're ahead of me there.

D.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Looking good . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to see you're ahead of me there.
> 
> D.


Thanks







The top is done in a similar manner and its covered by a white mesh, and the front is covered by a custom made magnetic filter by DemciFlex







See below:
So airflow is not an issue anymore


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Send them to me.


The NH-A15 PWMs are very large fans.














I'm searching Nidec and Sanyo and Delta for 140mmx25mm fans, coming up short so far. When these companies move to 140mm fans they seem to automatically increase the thickness to 38mm or 51mm.

Was hoping Nidec made a 140mmx25mm Gentle Typhoon, but no.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4860_zpssu0yfrhd.jpg.html


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> The NH-A15 PWMs are very large fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm searching Nidec and Sanyo and Delta for 140mmx25mm fans, coming up short so far. When these companies move to 140mm fans they seem to automatically increase the thickness to 38mm or 51mm.
> 
> Was hoping Nidec made a 140mmx25mm Gentle Typhoon, but no.


yeah, 140mmx25mm doesn't really seem to be a formfactor that's used for industrial fans.

Maybe you should just dye the NH-A15's ?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> yeah, 140mmx25mm doesn't really seem to be a formfactor that's used for industrial fans.
> 
> Maybe you should just dye the NH-A15's ?


Going to test a small number of Vardar 140 ERs in an RMA on Monday, not sure how many I have to test before finding two that are quiet, but I do know they exist.

I work close to PPCS, so will be driving over to pick up test and drive back the noisy ones, not so bad.

Just considering other 140x25 options and they're really aren't very many out there.









None that look as good as the all black Vardars.


----------



## mypickaxe

I'm pretty sure I'll find room for them in a Core X9


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I'm pretty sure I'll find room for them in a Core X9


38mm fans are great for cooling just need something to turn them down with as they usually are really loud but the are awesome rad fans if you can stand the noise


----------



## mypickaxe

what does that have to do with the size of the fan and this is EK not Case Labs thread.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> what does that have to do with the size of the fan and this is EK not Case Labs thread, fanboy.


caseboy


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> if it does not fall apart!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case Labs !!!


You have issues, and your use of emoticons to mask your true intentions says a lot.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> what does that have to do with the size of the fan and this is EK not Case Labs thread, fanboy.


Well actually... EK sells CaseLabs specific kits. So mentioning CaseLabs here is perfectly fine.









And Thermaltake...


----------



## mypickaxe

There's a lot of snobbery here. You know who you are. Grow up.


----------



## IT Diva

I don't give a crap what brand case it is . . . .

It's a whole lot more about the vision, talent, and skill of the artisan than the make of the case . . . .

Some cases just need a wee bit more artisan than others to be just as outstanding.













Darlene


----------



## Gilles3000

Don't have a problem with their cases, just with to company itself.

But, I'm just going to shut up about it now, doesn't make sense to make a fuss about is in this thread anyway.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattmax*
> 
> another question.... ;-)
> how much space is there between the horizontal ports 1+2 to the ground, when the res is fixed with the res-holders horizontal to a groundplate


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattmax*
> 
> Thanks, but as I read your answer I thought 20mm is a little bit to small. So, at home I designed it and my information is that the space is somthing about 53mm!


Hey mate. Double checked and measured the correct item.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Don't have a problem with their cases, just with to company itself.
> 
> But, I'm just going to shut up about it now, doesn't make sense to make a fuss about is in this thread anyway.


You're right, it doesn't. The entire thing starts because I offer to take some nice fans off someone's hands who considers them ugly. Instead of welcoming I get "you can't handle these" and "your case is junk." There's just no sense in this kind of behavior. It's counter to the thought of a community. It tears down instead of builds up.

Why someone would care that I spent ~$150 for a case instead of ~$550 for a case of higher build quality whilst having arguably less function is beyond me. It was my choice and it was a choice I made based on convenience.

Not sure what any of that has to do with the size of the fans, but so long as some insecure Waldo's have an opportunity to try and feel superior for five fleeting minutes, I suppose I should just look the other way.

p.s. 99.9% of the time I see the "







" it's meant in some contrived condescension.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Well actually... EK sells CaseLabs specific kits. So mentioning CaseLabs here is perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Thermaltake...


"Mentioning" something and using it as an attack are completely separate things. I'm not ashamed of anything I have, including the water cooling kit that cost more than an entire Case Labs case I could have ordered but chose the Core X9 instead.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I don't give a crap what brand case it is . . . .
> 
> It's a whole lot more about the vision, talent, and skill of the artisan than the make of the case . . . .
> 
> Some cases just need a wee bit more artisan than others to be just as outstanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Nice, is it 4 DDC pumps i can see in there?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yea, the one thing I'd suggest doing some more research on is the friggin' case . . . . .
> 
> IIRC, the H440 has an absolutely dismal reputation regarding air flow, resulting higher than expected temps, even with liquid cooling.
> 
> Users have mentioned 10 degree improvements when the top and front panels are removed for better air flow.
> 
> This isn't the only one, just one of the more recent ones, tangentially mentioned in the water cooling thread
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501208/nzxt-h440-laser-cutting-front-panel-and-top#post_22562303
> 
> If you're going to spend the money and put in the work to build a custom loop, do it in a case that will really let you reap the benefits of it.
> 
> There's a reason people don't build houses on quick sand.


Not saying this is the case here, but...

I do see a similar equation repeating over and again here at OCN. Enthusiasts taking their first dive into custom water with a water parts list totaling $800 to $1000 (or more) and they wish to build within their current chassis.

I did exactly that my first water (ad)venture, believe it's all about comfort, staying with a chassis that you're familiar with and truly enjoy, know your way around, and eliminating too much change all at once or too many variables to deal with after all custom water presents so much to learn and so many new decisions to make at one time, raises the insecurity and anxiety level quite a bit, the chassis you've become accustomed to acts as a common foundation, a security blanket, a stuffy.









Then once the water loop is up and running with no issues the next natural step for the new water enthusiast is to move those parts at the next water change or when budget allows into a chassis more conducive, offering more options, or better equipped for custom water, spreading the anxiety and the costs out over time.

That's the way I ended up moving to custom water and I see it repeated here often. Whatever makes the transition to water easier for you is the way to go.









.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

I think if I ever change my build up again I'd just go with a tiny chassis that has enough room for a pump/res and just use an external rad like the MORA3. No need to worry about what will and what won't fit, plus they're cheaper than the bigass cases like the 900D and Primo.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I think if I ever change my build up again I'd just go with a tiny chassis that has enough room for a pump/res and just use an external rad like the MORA3. No need to worry about what will and what won't fit, plus they're cheaper than the bigass cases like the 900D and Primo.


But you Sir are an advanced user, not a beginner.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> But you Sir are an advanced user, not a beginner.


Nah I wouldn't say that but you could pretty much fit a bay res+pump combo in nearly any chassis which solves that issue and drill a couple of holes out the back to hook up to an external rad.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Nah I wouldn't say that but you could pretty much fit a bay res+pump combo in nearly any chassis which solves that issue and drill a couple of holes out the back to hook up to an external rad.


You are right, we spend exorbitant amounts of money on medium and large cases, just so those extra large rads will fit inside.

Note to self:

Perhaps he is onto something here.









A new wave of build methodology perhaps?









.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> You are right, we spend exorbitant amounts of money on medium and large cases, just so those extra large rads will fit inside.
> 
> Note to self:
> 
> Perhaps he is onto something here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A new wave of build methodology perhaps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Well it's true... The MO-RA3 PRO 360 is $190 on MMM and the PRO 420 is $220 and that's basically like 3x 360 or 420 rads which means ~$65 or ~$75 per 360 or 420 rad. That's a very good deal and you'd be hardpressed to find many chassis which could fit 3x 360 or 420 rads. Granted, I have no idea how 3x rads would perform compared to the MO-RAs but you can pretty much use almost any chassis you'd like since most should have enough room for a pump/res combo like so: http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-dbay-d5-vario-incl-pump.html


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I don't give a crap what brand case it is . . . .
> 
> It's a whole lot more about the vision, talent, and skill of the artisan than the make of the case . . . .
> 
> Some cases just need a wee bit more artisan than others to be just as outstanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Nice, is it 4 DDC pumps i can see in there?
Click to expand...

Yes,

It's four of the 35X PWM DDCs with polished Bitspower Magic Cube tops.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/pump-accessories/bitspower-premium-magic-cube-type-ddc-mod-top-g1-4-acrylic-version.html

I made custom length polished aluminum mounting rails that mount on M4 standoffs with rubber anti-vibration bushings top and bottom, and then sleeved with 10mm ID white hardline for aesthetics.

The res is similarly mounted on standoffs, though without the need of the rubber bushings, and sleeved with white hardline to match.



I went with a quad pump setup so that it would nicely fill up the full width of the case, once the inlet and outlet fittings are in place, and then be the same basic length as the 300mm res tube.

Since the pumps are PWM, there's no problem running them slow enough to be silent and still move plenty of coolant thru a pretty complex loop.



Darlene


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes,
> 
> It's four of the 35X PWM DDCs with the Bitspower Magic Cube tops.
> 
> I made custom length polished aluminum mounting rails that mount on M4 standoffs with rubber anti-vibration bushings top and bottom, and then sleeved with 10mm ID white hardline for aesthetics.
> 
> The res is similarly mounted on standoffs, though without the need of the rubber bushings, and sleeved with white hardline to match.
> 
> I went with a quad pump setup so that it would nicely fill up the full width of the case, once the inlet and outlet fittings are in place, and then be the same basic length as the 300mm res tube.
> 
> Since the pumps are PWM, there's no problem running them slow enough to be silent and still move plenty of coolant thru a pretty complex loop.
> 
> Darlene


Nice, what do you get for flow rates?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes,
> 
> It's four of the 35X PWM DDCs with polished Bitspower Magic Cube tops.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/pump-accessories/bitspower-premium-magic-cube-type-ddc-mod-top-g1-4-acrylic-version.html
> 
> I made custom length polished aluminum mounting rails that mount on M4 standoffs with rubber anti-vibration bushings top and bottom, and then sleeved with 10mm ID white hardline for aesthetics.
> 
> The res is similarly mounted on standoffs, though without the need of the rubber bushings, and sleeved with white hardline to match.
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a quad pump setup so that it would nicely fill up the full width of the case, once the inlet and outlet fittings are in place, and then be the same basic length as the 300mm res tube.
> 
> Since the pumps are PWM, there's no problem running them slow enough to be silent and still move plenty of coolant thru a pretty complex loop.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes,
> 
> It's four of the 35X PWM DDCs with polished Bitspower Magic Cube tops.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/pump-accessories/bitspower-premium-magic-cube-type-ddc-mod-top-g1-4-acrylic-version.html
> 
> I made custom length polished aluminum mounting rails that mount on M4 standoffs with rubber anti-vibration bushings top and bottom, and then sleeved with 10mm ID white hardline for aesthetics.
> 
> The res is similarly mounted on standoffs, though without the need of the rubber bushings, and sleeved with white hardline to match.
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a quad pump setup so that it would nicely fill up the full width of the case, once the inlet and outlet fittings are in place, and then be the same basic length as the 300mm res tube.
> 
> Since the pumps are PWM, there's no problem running them slow enough to be silent and still move plenty of coolant thru a pretty complex loop.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Dear God, that's beautiful D.

All I build is boring inaudible work rigs, with very little style.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Dear God, that's beautiful D.
> 
> All I build is boring inaudible work rigs, with very little style.


I agree with you iBruce all I can seem to do is boring rigs. I am not so artistic, that side of my brain is very weak!!







Even when I come up with ideas they never look as nice as I think they will or do not work out.









So I just want nice neat, decent looking high performing rigs.

if I ever finish one


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I agree with you iBruce all I can seem to do is boring rigs. I am not so artistic, that side of my brain is very weak!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even when I come up with ideas they never look as nice as I think they will or do not work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just want nice neat, decent looking high performing rigs.
> 
> if I ever finish one


Yep, that sounds like me.









If there was a market for boring hyper-thermal-efficient, extremely fast (binned chips from Siliconlottery), inaudible work rigs using CaseLabs cases made to order, could see working with EK and PPCS and sell pre-made builds to enthusiasts.

PPCS has the workspace and the know how and knowledge-base to assemble and complete/fulfill the orders.

If there was such a market.









Costs to consumers would be $5,500, $7,500, $11,500, $15,500 just like all the other boutique sellers MainGear, Digital Storm etc, but they're using Corsair and NZXT and Phanteks cases mostly.

I would want to use CaseLabs cases, and create silent builds so then the niche grows even more nichy.









The upstart costs are not a problem, getting the people together and everyone on the same page and happy, the business plan, and the time to run an offshoot company is where it becomes complex but still very doable.

Think it's a great idea, even if volume of units sold always remains low.

edit: we wouldn't need to rely on SL for binning, we could bin our own CPUs easily enough, PPCS has talented people working there. Use SL as a business model of course.

Just an idea...









edit 2: volume would not remain low if we added silent gaming rigs.









edit 3: and the decibel distinction of silent vs inaudible.









.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

*Can anyone tell me the proper length for the EVO X99 mounting screws?* Total length-From very top of knurled thumb-nut to the very bottom? Im trying to determine if the X99 block I received has bolts that are too short or if the springs are too tight. It takes way too much pressure to even just get the bolts to catch on the bracket, let alone advance them any further for a good mounting. I need an independent measurement to compare it to the unit that I have.


----------



## iBruce

.

.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> *Can anyone tell me the proper length for the EVO X99 mounting screws?* Total length-From very top of knurled thumb-nut to the very bottom? Im trying to determine if the X99 block I received has bolts that are too short or if the springs are too tight. It takes way too much pressure to even just get the bolts to catch on the bracket, let alone advance them any further for a good mounting. I need an independent measurement to compare it to the unit that I have.


Can you post a pic of what you have?


----------



## iBruce

You guys seen this beautiful EK CaseLabs build by hyooga yet? Oh My God, I have NONE of this type of artistic talent, I suffer from right brain disconnect like seross69.









Spotted a Bitspower Aqua Pipe variable distance link between the res and pump top.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...2a72814_20160116_001404_zpsj9llvswy.jpeg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...5e9ba18_20160121_232445_zpsizce80df.jpeg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...fee2b83_20160121_232330_zps3zpa4h1a.jpeg.html


----------



## iBruce

Daniel of Singularity Computers, discussing custom length of cables in his Event Horizon EK CaseLabs build.

Something I'm involved in currently cutting the length of all cables to an exact fit (within slack limits of course), then reattaching the connectors and pins with the correct crimping tools.

Love the IRODA micro-jet tool for heat shrink

http://www.amazon.com/Iroda-MJ-600-MICRO-JET-Cordless-Refillable/dp/B005HG931O


----------



## johnd0e

i need to do that in my case....wires are horrendously long and bundled up in the basement looking like a crazy nest.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> i need to do that in my case....wires are horrendously long and bundled up in the basement looking like a crazy nest.


I've began picking up the sleeving, shrink, fan pins etc from PPCS.

So far I've only custom length'd sleeved end pin'd connected one Sanyo fan but it came out really nice from 3 bare wires red yellow blue to plugging it into the Aquaero 6 LT for the first time was an absolute rush.

It doesn't take much to excite me.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_1523_zpsyayjyuxy.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4863_zps2q2tqxfw.jpg.html

Go ahead and critique this sleeving, yea its puffy I need to pull down the sleeving engage the mesh and push it down into the fan slot.

Critique this sleeving.









open for suggestion.









...but that fan is spinning see that? Power ON!, Got the pins aligned just right.


----------



## johnd0e

I think it looks good. i thought about just modifying my already sleeved cables just triming and re pinning. But i might try sleeving my original cables that came with the psu.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> I think it looks good. i thought about just modifying my already sleeved cables just triming and re pinning. But i might try sleeving my original cables that came with the psu.


It's Bitspower tightweave black.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-super-tight-weave-sleeving-1-4-black.html

I didn't use heat shrink at the fan hub since the Sanyo sticker is thermo plastic it would deform and you cannot buy replacements, that sticker is an aesthetic feature in my build so I was extra careful no heat applied to the fan sticker.

Did use heat shrink at the opposite end of course at the fan connector.

.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Daniel of Singularity Computers, discussing custom length of cables in his Event Horizon EK CaseLabs build.
> 
> Something I'm involved in currently cutting the length of all cables to an exact fit (within slack limits of course), then reattaching the connectors and pins with the correct crimping tools.
> 
> Love the IRODA micro-jet tool for heat shrink
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Iroda-MJ-600-MICRO-JET-Cordless-Refillable/dp/B005HG931O
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I will not, I'll repeat that... *I will not* be doing this, lest I loose my mind, and end up in the looney bin!!!









Now I know why Custom Cables cost so damn much!


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> I will not, I'll repeat that... *I will not* be doing this, lest I loose my mind, and end up in the looney bin!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I know why Custom Cables cost so damn much!


It's fun man.

Doing it for a living all day would be hard yes, but for your build, your baby? Come on, put in the 12hours and make it right.

It''s your baby.









(a dingo ate my baby)


----------



## johnd0e

I just look at it as, "cant be any harder then rewireing a car" and ive done that way to many times before lol. Talk about a lot of wires to cut and pin.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> I just look at it as, "cant be any harder then rewireing a car" and ive done that way to many times before lol. Talk about a lot of wires to cut and pin.


It isn't hard at all, a short learning curve, time consuming yes, but of only one build two builds worth it to get the custom lengths you want, makes cable management so simple.

My D5 came with power and pwm about what 36inches long? try tucking that behind the PSU, not easy in a small case.

Just cut my D5 cables to 4inches, pre-measured for the build.

It took a bit of bravery.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4867_zpsmhev6nvf.jpg.html


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> It's fun man.
> 
> Doing it for a living all day would be hard yes, but for your build, your baby? Come on, put in the 12hours and make it right.
> 
> It''s your baby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (a dingo ate my baby)


One thing the video did do, was to reaffirm why I have such a big wad of cables in the back of my case...

It's shameful...











And, look at all the uneven wires of the Corsair Custom braided cables...


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> One thing the video did do, was to reaffirm why I have such a big wad of cables in the back of my case...
> 
> It's shameful...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, look at all the uneven wires of the Corsair Custom braided cables...


Don't feel bad Mike, I've had that spaghetti mess as long as I've been building.

But this is the year 2016, Down With Cable Wad.









Going to pick up some of this awesome world class MDPC-X sleeving from CaseLabs, and sleeve the stock Seasonic Snow Silent cables to white instead of paying for a white kit that's way too long.

Probably only the 24-pin, the 8-pin and the KingPin 8+8+6 video cables at first.

http://www.caselabs-store.com/mdpc-x-sleeve/

Oh my, CaseLabs also has the MDPC-X heat shrink in white now also, might as well add that to the cart.

http://www.caselabs-store.com/heatshrink-3-4-1-sata-1ft-white/

Already picked up the PPCS crimping tool, was only going to do two dc sanyo fans and Aquaero cables but might as well do the PSU also.


----------



## iBruce

25 feet for $7.95, sounds like a good deal.









http://www.caselabs-store.com/white-x-mdpc-x-sleeve-25ft/

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...889.1449621615.1280.1280_zpsow3yq94v.png.html


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> 25 feet for $7.95, sounds like a good deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/white-x-mdpc-x-sleeve-25ft/


Dude... you gotta stop the frequent double posting. Just a friendly heads up









-Jeffinslaw


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Dude... you gotta stop the frequent double posting. Just a friendly heads up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


Ok Jeff

IceModz uses the MDPX sleeving also, sleeves cables by hand and lets you design your own color combinations cable-by-cable with this interactive sleevetool.

http://www.icemodz.eu/sleevetool/

.


----------



## 0xzz

so im trying to figure out at what speed to run my pump but im really confused after reading for the past hour








i have a ek xres revo d5 pwm pumping through a ek coolstream pe 360 and pe 240, a EK Asus M8 Hero Monoblock and a GTX 980Ti Block.
I read that 1 gpm is enough for cooling but i dont know at what speed to run my pump to achieve 1gpm and if the pressure at 1gpm is enough.
Would be nice if someone could help me out here









Regards


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> so im trying to figure out at what speed to run my pump but im really confused after reading for the past hour
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have a ek xres revo d5 pwm pumping through a ek coolstream pe 360 and pe 240, a EK Asus M8 Hero Monoblock and a GTX 980Ti Block.
> I read that 1 gpm is enough for cooling but i dont know at what speed to run my pump to achieve 1gpm and if the pressure at 1gpm is enough.
> Would be nice if someone could help me out here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards


For bleeding I'd preset 40% power for short quick bursts.

Run between the 25% and 35% pwr range and see which rotational speed gives you the best thermals for idle work, gaming CPU intensive etc.

Doubt you will see an improvement in the 35% to 50% range but it only takes minutes to find out, you might benefit.

Beyond 50% most likely no thermal improvement.

Honestly the best way to figure this stuff out is to plug it in and run it while watching thermals, your best pump speed is the one that give you the optimal thermal and acoustic results.

Same with fans and rpms, put them in, plug them in, turn them on and listen at your personal working gaming distance, beats any acoustic chamber on planet earth.

No one knows what your ears hear better than you.









.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> For bleeding I'd preset 40% power for short quick bursts.
> 
> Run between the 25% and 35% pwr range and see which rotational speed gives you the best thermals for idle work, gaming CPU intensive etc.
> 
> Doubt you will see an improvement in the 35% to 50% range but it only takes minutes to find out, you might benefit.
> 
> Beyond 50% most likely no thermal improvement.


thanks, i will try that. currently running at 35% and i can see no difference from the 50% i ran yesterday.
is it normal that my pump has different rpm than the chart on the ek website?



for example, at 50% my pump reports around 2150rpm, not 2700rpm...


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> thanks, i will try that. currently running at 35% and i can see no difference from the 50% i ran yesterday.
> is it normal that my pump has different rpm than the chart on the ek website?
> 
> 
> 
> for example, at 50% my pump reports around 2150rpm, not 2700rpm...


50% my pump is at 3500rpm, so I can't give you a solid answer.

Mine is a Laing D5 Strong not Vario, not standard, not sure if there is much difference.

Maybe the good Doctor can help us out here.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> thanks, i will try that. currently running at 35% and i can see no difference from the 50% i ran yesterday.
> is it normal that my pump has different rpm than the chart on the ek website?
> 
> 
> 
> for example, at 50% my pump reports around 2150rpm, not 2700rpm...


I'd say you're experiencing the effects of the rate of diminishing returns. I have almost an identical configuration to yours, by the way, with the exception of the blocks.


----------



## seross69

Actually the fast the water flows the more heat it removes from the block so it will keep it cooler but the problem is then the radiator does not remove enough heat so this is what gives you the diminishing returns.

If you had more that one radiator and you ran them in parallel you would get better cooling but it is so hard to do this and still make everything look decent.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Actually the fast the water flows the more heat it removes from the block so it will keep it cooler but the problem is then the radiator does not remove enough heat so this is what gives you the diminishing returns.
> 
> If you had more that one radiator and you ran them in parallel you would get better cooling but it is so hard to do this and still make everything look decent.


Agree.

That's why I thought it better to give him a nice safe range of pwr values. Then he can tune his own personal favorites for each CPU profile.

Watching this video again, Daniel mentions he has outsourced to ICEMODZ.com for his PSU cables in the past, and is extremely happy with them shows a pair in the vid using the MDPX, so think I'm going to do my own fans and Aquaero 6 LT sleeving and get the PSU for Seasonic white done by Icemodz.com






Looking for an ultra white, hospital white psu cables for my gunmetal gray CaseLabs S8S Z170 6700K Inaudible build.

http://www.icemodz.eu/sleevetool/

I did try to order from the CaseLabs store the sleeving and the PayPal is down. Was down three weeks ago also when getting the U-Channel.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Actually the fast the water flows the more heat it removes from the block so it will keep it cooler but the problem is then the radiator does not remove enough heat so this is what gives you the diminishing returns.
> 
> If you had more that one radiator and you ran them in parallel you would get better cooling but it is so hard to do this and still make everything look decent.


Heat dump from the pump + not enough time spent cooling off in the radiator. More rads can help but I think this is where the ~ 1.0 gpm rule comes from.


----------



## iBruce

Since we are talking cables, I noticed Jay of Jayztwocents and the guy from Singularity Computers both complaining about the CaseLabs yellow red black multi ketchup mustard black front panel cables and I completely agree. I also think they look terrible.

The solution is easy. You simply ask CaseLabs to include the "all-black sensation" with your next order.

Customer service at CL in amazing and they will make certain you get the all-black front panel connection cables if that is what you so desire.

Before pics:

See here, Dick and Jane are not so happy. Ho hum, sadness seeps in.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_0839_zpsvhxmqbzv.jpg.html

But look now:

Now, Dick and Jane are very happy and smiling with their new all black CaseLabs front cabling.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Heat dump from the pump + not enough time spent cooling off in the radiator. More rads can help but I think this is where the ~ 1.0 gpm rule comes from.


ok so the ek website says the d5 pump is capable of 1500 L/h, thats 6.6gpm, does that mean at 50% pwm speed i get 3.3gpm???


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> ok so the ek website says the d5 pump is capable of 1500 L/h, thats 6.6gpm, does that mean at 50% pwm speed i get 3.3gpm???


No it does not. That number is without any restrictions and you have lots in a water cooling loop. I am not sure what you get maybe @iBruce has a better idea???

I have never ran only on D5


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> thanks, i will try that. currently running at 35% and i can see no difference from the 50% i ran yesterday.
> is it normal that my pump has different rpm than the chart on the ek website?
> 
> 
> 
> for example, at 50% my pump reports around 2150rpm, not 2700rpm...
> 
> 
> 
> 50% my pump is at 3500rpm, so I can't give you a solid answer.
> 
> *Mine is a Laing D5 Strong not Vario, not standard, not sure if there is much difference.
> *
> Maybe the good Doctor can help us out here.
Click to expand...

I thought you had the AquaComputer PWM D5 ???

The D5 Strong is a very different animal.

It's not PWM, nor does it have the red speed adjuster of the Vario.

What sets it apart, is that it actually gives you another 1300 rpm, (6100 at max) when you run it from a 24V source and it moves a lot more coolant from the increased rpm.

It does not speed control very well, unfortunately, and about as low as you can reliably get it is around 3500 rpm, so it's not very quiet at the lowest speed and sounds down right industrial at max.

All the other D5 models will allow operation from source voltage up to 24V, but only the Strong gives any additional rpm when you do that.

D.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I thought you had the AquaComputer PWM D5 ???
> 
> The D5 Strong is a very different animal.
> 
> It's not PWM, nor does it have the red speed adjuster of the Vario.
> 
> What sets it apart, is that it actually gives you another 1300 rpm, (6100 at max) when you run it from a 24V source and it moves a lot more coolant from the increased rpm.
> 
> It does not speed control very well, unfortunately, and about as low as you can reliably get it is around 3500 rpm, so it's not very quiet at the lowest speed and sounds down right industrial at max.
> 
> All the other D5 models will allow operation from source voltage up to 24V, but only the Strong gives any additional rpm when you do that.
> 
> D.


I have three Laing D5s. I had four and gave the EK Vario to someone who needed it. The AquaComputer D5 PWM is what I'm using for the current inaudible build.

She's keeping track of my pumps, that's a positive sign from above. I'm finally getting somewhere with her Hubba Hubba.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

http://www.tomshardware.com/picturestory/697-ekwb-factory-tour.html


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/picturestory/697-ekwb-factory-tour.html


Oh boy, something actually good on Tom's Hardware!!!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Oh boy, something actually good on Tom's Hardware!!!


Yes that is unusual!! I use to love the site until it was sold out to corporate sponsors!! But cant blame them for taking the money!!


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Yes that is unusual!! I use to love the site until it was sold out to corporate sponsors!! But cant blame them for taking the money!!


AS far as I'm concerned, Tom's Hardware, is as useless as tits on a bull!!!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> AS far as I'm concerned, Tom's Hardware, is as useless as tits on a bull!!!


it kills me all these sites even the independent sites never have anything bad to say about any product!! wish someone would and could be honest about their reviews!!!


----------



## toolmaker03

here is a perfect example of what you are talking about.

first the company gives them a lot of products, then they ask for a favorable review of there products.
its the same tactics that a car dealer uses to sell cars, but if one considers that this type of review process is done for all products, one is only left with coming to places like this, and asking real people what there experience with the product is, when I find three people that have the same opinion, I take those opinions, as the truth about the product.


----------



## funfordcobra

I can tell you that after 4 rads, a cpu and 2 GPUs in a single loop, a d5 will really decrease your flow. (at least mine did) I believe mine went down by 50% on full speed. I leave it at full now when I used to be able to leave it at 50% when I only had one rad.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I can tell you that after 4 rads, a cpu and 2 GPUs in a single loop, a d5 will really decrease your flow. (at least mine did) I believe mine went down by 50% on full speed. I leave it at full now when I used to be able to leave it at 50% when I only had one rad.


D5 is not decreasing you flow all the radiators are!!


----------



## toolmaker03

here have a look at this, and it might help with the flow on that loop.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1573189/serial-vs-parallel-9-6lpm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I can tell you that after 4 rads, a cpu and 2 GPUs in a single loop, a d5 will really decrease your flow. (at least mine did) I believe mine went down by 50% on full speed. I leave it at full now when I used to be able to leave it at 50% when I only had one rad.


----------



## funfordcobra

I like that concept but in a caselabs s8 it would be damn near impossible lol. I could add another pump but I have very little room left.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> D5 is not decreasing you flow all the radiators are!!


That's what I mean. I've talked to aikira too and he said he had the same head pressure problem in his s8.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toolmaker03*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here is a perfect example of what you are talking about.
> 
> first the company gives them a lot of products, then they ask for a favorable review of there products.
> its the same tactics that a car dealer uses to sell cars, but if one considers that this type of review process is done for all products, one is only left with coming to places like this, and asking real people what there experience with the product is, when I find three people that have the same opinion, I take those opinions, as the truth about the product.


This is a Joke, Right?

Please let this be a joke. You don't really believe this is a genuine example of a site selling out?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I can tell you that after 4 rads, a cpu and 2 GPUs in a single loop, a d5 will really decrease your flow. (at least mine did) I believe mine went down by 50% on full speed. I leave it at full now when I used to be able to leave it at 50% when I only had one rad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> D5 is not decreasing you flow all the radiators are!!


That will depend a lot on the individual rads you use. Overall, most rads are very low restriction and therefor have only minor effects on flow rate but that isn't universally true. Common rads like any of the Alphacool models, EK PE, HWL SR2 and so on use 2mm internal tubes with at least 2 rows so it takes 3 or 4 of them to equal the restrictive effects of a single water block. Some other models Like EK SE, HWL GTX & GTS and Koolance use narrower 1.5mm tubes and in the case of the SE and GTS only a single row of them. This makes a huge difference to the restriction such that a single rad can nearly equal a modern high flow water block in restriction. Add 3 or 4 of them to a loop and you begin to really sap the available pressure of any pump.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Double post

Like a dum dum


----------



## toolmaker03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> This is a Joke, Right?
> 
> Please let this be a joke. You don't really believe this is a genuine example of a site selling out?
> 
> That will depend a lot on the individual rads you use. Overall, most rads are very low restriction and therefor have only minor effects on flow rate but that isn't universally true. Common rads like any of the Alphacool models, EK PE, HWL SR2 and so on use 2mm internal tubes with at least 2 rows so it takes 3 or 4 of them to equal the restrictive effects of a single water block. Some other models Like EK SE, HWL GTX & GTS and Koolance use narrower 1.5mm tubes and in the case of the SE and GTS only a single row of them. This makes a huge difference to the restriction such that a single rad can nearly equal a modern high flow water block in restriction. Add 3 or 4 of them to a loop and you begin to really sap the available pressure of any pump.


well I guess its not to you, I guess that you really do believe that he can put 40 fans on a H100i and get it to cool at temperatures below the ambient temperature of the room.

your so smart jakusonfire. thanks for clearing that up for me, without you I would have thought it was not possible, but because you say it is, well than it must be true, because jakusonfire is never wrong.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toolmaker03*
> 
> well I guess its not to you, I guess that you really do believe that he can put 40 fans on a H100i and get it to cool at temperatures below the ambient temperature of the room.
> 
> your so smart jakusonfire. thanks for clearing that up for me, without you I would have thought it was not possible, but because you say it is, well than it must be true, because jakusonfire is never wrong.


Oh No.

Yeah of course its possible. Corsair paid them to prove it.

Maybe if I put a whole loop in parallel with 40 fans on each rad it'll hit absolute zero or Bose-Einstein condensate at least.

Ohhhh .... hang on .... I watched to the end of the video. There go my plans.

Those dang sellouts tricked me good!


----------



## toolmaker03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Oh No.
> 
> Yeah of course its possible. Corsair paid them to prove it.
> 
> Maybe if I put a whole loop in parallel with 40 fans on each rad it'll hit absolute zero or Bose-Einstein condensate at least.
> 
> Ohhhh .... hang on .... I watched to the end of the video. There go my plans.
> 
> Those dang sellouts tricked me good!


yea, and that is what I was trying to state to start with, but I have to make you look real smart, before you will agree with me.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toolmaker03*
> 
> yea, and that is what I was trying to state to start with, but I have to make you look real smart, before you will agree with me.


That video was a joke. Literally. It's not meant to be taken seriously.


----------



## toolmaker03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That video was a joke. Literally. It's not meant to be taken seriously.


did you notice, any of the replays on that thread?

Armadillo 1 month ago
3348 people fell for it and spent hundreds of dollars on fans.

if it was a joke, why did he not tell any of these people that?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toolmaker03*
> 
> did you notice, any of the replays on that thread?
> 
> Armadillo 1 month ago
> 3348 people fell for it and spent hundreds of dollars on fans.
> 
> if it was a joke, why did he not tell any of these people that?


That comment is also a joke! It was referring to the number of dislikes on the video, and nothing more. If you really thought that video was serious (despite the ending mentioning it wasn't) and that comment was actually true, then I really can't convince you otherwise.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That comment is also a joke! It was referring to the number of dislikes on the video, and nothing more. If you really thought that video was serious (despite the ending mentioning it wasn't) and that comment was actually true, then I really can't convince you otherwise.


Save the keystrokes, seriously.

We can all agree It was clearly a conspiracy between Corsair and OC3D

Now everyone back away ... slowly with no sudden movements or you'll get a flood of PM's threatening to "make you look foolish"


----------



## Gilles3000

Wait, I thought @toolmaker03 was joking too, but he was serious?

That's awkward...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Save the keystrokes, seriously.
> 
> We can all agree It was clearly a conspiracy between Corsair and OC3D
> 
> Now everyone back away ... slowly with no sudden movements or you'll get a flood of PM's threatening to "make you look foolish"


I was holding hope that he was just trolling but the PMs.. I suppose that settles that.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I was holding hope that he was just trolling but the PMs.. I suppose that settles that.


I know right!

At the moment I am being accused of claiming test rigs were my own when they weren't and faking results.

Even better, apparently every water cooling gear tester over the past decade from Skinnee to Martin and Fast Fate have been doing it all wrong and will be proved as such.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I know right!
> 
> At the moment I am being accused of claiming test rigs were my own when they weren't and faking results.
> 
> Even better, apparently every water cooling gear tester over the past decade from Skinnee to Martin and Fast Fate have been doing it all wrong and will be proved as such.


Awesome, I look forward to this


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Skinnee to Martin and Fast Fate


Just who are these guys anyway.......

........

........

........


----------



## 1Scotty1

Oh man! The suspense is killing me! So hyped about my first custom loop, and the angled fittings are out of stock







And what is worse, nickel ones will be back on stock mid-March, so I might have to go with black ones, they will be back on stock 31st January







Sucks that we don't have a local retailer... /rant


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/picturestory/697-ekwb-factory-tour.html


Mmmmm, nice machining porn.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> apparently every water cooling gear tester over the past decade from Skinnee to Martin and Fast Fate have been doing it all wrong and will be proved as such.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Awesome, I look forward to this


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Just who are these guys anyway.......
> 
> ........
> 
> ........
> 
> ........


Not sure about the names








BUT
I look forward to seeing the documented evidence and results in about 2 years when he completes his testing and publishes the results.


----------



## IT Diva

I don't know what all the fuss is about . . . . .

Everyone, who is anyone, in watercooling's inner secret circle, knows that only rads made from pure, virgin, unrefined unobtainium are capable of sub ambient thermal exchange given sufficiently high air velocities that the normal frictional heating effect is reversed via the hydrocoptic marzelvane effect . . . .

It's just simple quantum mechanics woo wooo.

Darlene


----------



## 1Scotty1

Ordered everything except fittings







They will be available 31st Jan (hopefully)


----------



## RpeeKooz

I recently bought about 12 ek 90 degree rotary fittings today i installed them in my system and they seem to have alot of play at the rotary bit compared to the bitspower rotary i have....why is this? And should i be worried about these leaking or is it normal for these ek fittings...i have spent alot on this recent upgrade and all i need is one of these leaking on my gear... What should i do buy new ones ?return these ones?
Cheers


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> I recently bought about 12 ek 90 degree rotary fittings today i installed them in my system and they seem to have alot of play at the rotary bit compared to the bitspower rotary i have....why is this? And should i be worried about these leaking or is it normal for these ek fittings...i have spent alot on this recent upgrade and all i need is one of these leaking on my gear... What should i do buy new ones ?return these ones?
> Cheers


Do you have the old style ek fittings that have a knurled base(like the bitspower) or the new style with the fluted base?


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> I recently bought about 12 ek 90 degree rotary fittings today i installed them in my system and they seem to have alot of play at the rotary bit compared to the bitspower rotary i have....why is this? And should i be worried about these leaking or is it normal for these ek fittings...i have spent alot on this recent upgrade and all i need is one of these leaking on my gear... What should i do buy new ones ?return these ones?
> Cheers


i have a similar problem with 45 degree ek csq adapters i bought recently. one of them is so stiff i need excessive force to rotate it or soak it in hot water first and the other one has a LOT of play, is super easy to rotate and the color on the ring at the bottom is slightly different from the color of the 45degree turn. im currently using all of them because i need to and i had no leaks.

bought a bitspower 45degree adapter for three times the money of an ek one and its just a breeze...


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I don't know what all the fuss is about . . . . .
> 
> Everyone, who is anyone, in watercooling's inner secret circle, knows that only rads made from pure, virgin, unrefined *unobtainium* are capable of sub ambient thermal exchange given sufficiently high air velocities that the normal frictional heating effect is reversed via the *hydrocoptic marzelvane* effect . . . .
> 
> It's just simple quantum mechanics woo wooo.
> 
> Darlene


Darlene, I had to look up some words, to get the full meaning of your post,



























































Unobtainium = a highly desirable material that is hypothetical, scientifically impossible, extremely rare, costly, or fictional, or has some of these properties in combination.






























Hydrocoptic Marzelvane = is a fictional machine whose alleged existence became an in-joke and subject of professional humor among engineers. The explanation of the supposed product makes extensive use of technobabble.






























Thanks for the refreshing humor! It's just what I needed today!









Mike


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Do you have the old style ek fittings that have a knurled base(like the bitspower) or the new style with the fluted base?


i thinks its the new ones with the vertical lines on the base...if that makes sense....


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> i thinks its the new ones with the vertical lines on the base...if that makes sense....


Yes it does.

I actually had to replace all the old style with new style because they were loose and had problems. The new ones with the "vertical lines" at the base were nice and tight and dint have any problems though.

I would contact where you purchased them if its been within 30 days or so , or if not contact ek directly though their site.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

I believe *this* is what I need to use with *this* in order to use normal fittings on the reservoir top?

Thanks, Jeffinslaw


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I believe *this* is what I need to use with *this* in order to use normal fittings on the reservoir top?
> 
> Thanks, Jeffinslaw


Yes, any EK product that has the recessed G1/4 port needs that extender.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I believe *this* is what I need to use with *this* in order to use normal fittings on the reservoir top?
> 
> Thanks, Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, any EK product that has the recessed G1/4 port needs that extender.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Just wanted to double check! +rep!

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Mads1

Does it matter what way round a evo block goes on a x99 socket, eg: my M/B is inverted so if its mounted in conventional way the EK badge will be upside down.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Does it matter what way round a evo block goes on a x99 socket, eg: my M/B is inverted so if its mounted in conventional way the EK badge will be upside down.


There is a marginal performance difference. See here:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1AbfIb8jBZVLa2LbuSq5jGjOs08_nPiOo7UdEtXoMqjs/pubchart?oid=523046411&format=interactive

Note: The EK badge is removable and you can rotate it to your desired orientation: http://www.overclock.net/t/1434852/ek-waterblock-polishing-guide/0_20


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> There is a marginal performance difference. See here:
> 
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1AbfIb8jBZVLa2LbuSq5jGjOs08_nPiOo7UdEtXoMqjs/pubchart?oid=523046411&format=interactive
> 
> Note: The EK badge is removable and you can rotate it to your desired orientation: http://www.overclock.net/t/1434852/ek-waterblock-polishing-guide/0_20


I did think of that and thats what il prob do, the way i wanted it would of made the tube run easier, thanks.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Next week I will officially join this club, just got confirmation from EKWB that my order was shipped today


----------



## iBruce

What's up guys and D.









Vardar to the Rescue - Skylake 6700K arrived this morning.









Put the Noctua fans back in the packaging, using an EK Vardar F4 120 ER unmounted and resting between the two tower array, plugged into a Noctua inline attenuator (resistor) cooling the NH-D15 heat sink. The 6700K seems so much faster stock than my 3770K oc'd at 4.8GHz at least it feels faster during normal computing tasks.

So far only using the 6700K at stock 4.0GHz-4.2GHz boost.

Nice idle temps the Vardar and heatsink doing a great job CPU fan is reading 467rpms. The fan is inaudible at that speed why I love the Vardar 120ERs so much.

Now for some overclocking, the CPU is delidded, as the mostly uniform core temps would suggest and binned at 4.8GHz. Will post results in the Skylake thread. Wewt.









Important: The Noctua heatsink is ONLY for testing (and backup), will not use inside the chassis, EK custom water all the way.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4883_zpslmjesiyy.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4885_zpsrkblwt4t.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4888_zps7mrhbbzp.jpg.html


----------



## PhantomWorks

Hi all,
Count in,

EK-Supremacy EVO Full Nickel
EK-XTOP D5 PWM - Acetal
Phobya Balancer 150
19/13mm PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubes
EK ACF fitings
Rads EK-CoolStream Rad SE 120 and EK-CoolStream Rad SE 240
EK-Vardar F1-120 Fans
EK-Ekoolant EVO UV Blue

Cheers form here north, cold Finland.

Juha


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomWorks*
> 
> Hi all,
> Count in,
> 
> EK-Supremacy EVO Full Nickel
> EK-XTOP D5 PWM - Acetal
> Phobya Balancer 150
> 19/13mm PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubes
> EK ACF fitings
> Rads EK-CoolStream Rad SE 120 and EK-CoolStream Rad SE 240
> EK-Vardar F1-120 Fans
> EK-Ekoolant EVO UV Blue
> 
> Cheers form here north, cold Finland.
> 
> Juha


We love cold Finlandia, better temps.

Welcome to the EK Club, share your EK experience.

Just added the SGX codec to my 6700K, actually it was updated by a Windows 10 microcode bot to version 6A, made me so happy.

Thank you microcode bot.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4898_zpsyokgam69.jpg.html


----------



## iBruce

Thanks Wendell, helping me overclock the 6700K

Why you guys at TekSyndicate not doing EK?






pic below is for the professor.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Question - did I screw up by not going with a monoblock on my ASUS X99-PRO/USB3.1? I "only" got the Supremacy EVO X99 Nickel... (my package from EKWB should arrive next week, woohoo







)


----------



## M3TAl

Quite a few weeks ago I was fussing about my 290X Lightning block and the O-Ring... Well just reporting in everything is fine and dandy! No Leaks! New desk is done!

Think I nailed the TIM job too as temps seem a good 3-4C lower on GPU at load (could be lower ambient though, didn't have time for testing in that department).

PS: My regular mousepad and mouse are out of commision for the moment. Oh and doesn't that classic 1995'ish PS2 keyboard just really set off that sweet watercooling and desk














Need to move some of my guitars to this wall now, time to buy some more String Swings.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Question - did I screw up by not going with a monoblock on my ASUS X99-PRO/USB3.1? I "only" got the Supremacy EVO X99 Nickel... (my package from EKWB should arrive next week, woohoo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


no i think you did the right thing, im already regretting getting a monoblock for my asus maximus hero viii, my temps are not good, hitting 80C on 1.4V immedeately when starting a stresstest, i cant seem to get my block installed correctly on my mb... reseated 3 times already :/


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> no i think you did the right thing, im already regretting getting a monoblock for my asus maximus hero viii, my temps are not good, hitting 80C on 1.4V immedeately when starting a stresstest, i cant seem to get my block installed correctly on my mb... reseated 3 times already :/


Woah, so I saved a bit of cash and saved myself from this hassle of re-seating seeing it can be a pain in the rear... thanks







and good luck with your monoblock


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Woah, so I saved a bit of cash and saved myself from this hassle of re-seating seeing it can be a pain in the rear... thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and good luck with your monoblock


yeah you save cash and you have better resale value, all the things i dismissed because i wanted a cool looking mb block


----------



## iBruce

I'm in the same boat, should I get the M8E EK monoblock for $138 or another (will be my 3rd) Supremacy EVO nickel plexi $78. Why does only the nickel plexi appeal to me? EK makes what 25 different EVO skus even white, but I like to see the fluid move through the block, kind of childish if you think about it.

So far I'm getting pretty good temps on air.

From Ivy Bridge to Skylake volts went UP, and temps came DOWN, not sure how Intel pulled that off, of course factoring in the delidding on the 6700K and super efficient silicon that may be why my temps are so much lower than Ivy.

Cannot wait to get this CPU underwater with two EK rads, idle temps in the teens like 19C 18C maybe?

Ambient room is 77F (25C) a/c is not on, but rainy and muggy outside, wait that makes no sense, cpu cores cannot be lower than ambient room.










http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4900_zpsfyi9cu6k.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4902_zpsylz2kpzj.jpg.html


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I'm in the same boat, should I get the M8E EK monoblock for $138 or another (will be my 3rd) Supremacy EVO nickel plexi $78. Why does only the nickel plexi appeal to me? EK makes what 25 different EVO skus even white, but I like to see the fluid move through the block, kind of childish if you think about it.
> 
> So far I'm getting pretty good temps on air.
> 
> From Ivy Bridge to Skylake volts went UP, and temps came DOWN, not sure how Intel pulled that off, of course factoring in the delidding on the 6700K and super efficient silicon that may be why my temps are so much lower than Ivy.
> 
> Cannot wait to get this CPU underwater with two EK rads, idle temps in the teens like 19C 18C maybe?
> 
> Ambient room is 77F (25C) a/c is not on, but rainy and muggy outside, wait that makes no sense, cpu cores cannot be lower than ambient room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4900_zpsfyi9cu6k.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4902_zpsylz2kpzj.jpg.html


Must be something going on with the temp sensors as we all know idling below ambient is impossibru.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Must be something going on with the temp sensors as we all know idling below ambient is impossibru.


im currently idling at 19C on my coolest core with 22.3C ambient temp and 25 water temp. i dont really understand why my water temp is higher than my ambient temp at idle...


----------



## Benjiw

Guys, calm down, it's just temp sensor readings, they all read differently and can be off a few degrees, calm everyone, calm!


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Guys, calm down, it's just temp sensor readings, they all read differently and can be off a few degrees, calm everyone, calm!


Enhance your calm, John Spartan.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> im currently idling at 19C on my coolest core with 22.3C ambient temp and 25 water temp. i dont really understand why my water temp is higher than my ambient temp at idle...


Basic physics, water temp can't be lower than ambient. Nothing can be lower than ambient unless using a chiller or dice/LN2 etc.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Basic physics, water temp can't be lower than ambient. Nothing can be lower than ambient unless using a chiller or dice/LN2 etc.


yeah i know that, but i thought my system would idle at ambient temp








i think my temps are not very good overall, after 30 mins of gaming on my overclocked gigabyte g1 980ti my card is at 50C with my water at 39C while my ambient temp is 23.5C... a DeltaT of 16C is not very good...


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> yeah i know that, but i thought my system would idle at ambient temp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think my temps are not very good overall, after 30 mins of gaming on my overclocked gigabyte g1 980ti my card is at 50C with my water at 39C while my ambient temp is 23.5C... a DeltaT of 16C is not very good...


Honestly not sure if it's possible to idle at ambient. You still have cpu and gpu putting heat in the loop. I know my loops have never idled at ambient. Usually 2-3C more I think. I can check at home later tonight.


----------



## enkur

Just finished my build and ready to test it out... keeping fingers crossed for no leaks.

here is my setup
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump) EK-XRES-140-REVO-D5-PWM 1 $159.98
EK-FC Titan X/GTX980 Ti Waterblock - Nickel EK-FC-TITANX-NP 1 $125.99
EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm Fan) Vertical EK-UNI-PUMPBK-120VERT 1 $13.49
EK-Ekoolant EVO Blood RED (concentrate 100mL) EKOOLANT-EVO-100-RD 1 $9.99
EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Water Block - Nickel/Plexi EK-SUPREMACY-EVO-NP 1 $77.95
EK-Coolstream PE 240mm x 2
Fractal Design Defne R5 Window case


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Enhance your calm, John Spartan.


Must still be adjusting to the sea shells.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Just finished my build and ready to test it out... keeping fingers crossed for no leaks.
> 
> here is my setup
> EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump) EK-XRES-140-REVO-D5-PWM 1 $159.98
> EK-FC Titan X/GTX980 Ti Waterblock - Nickel EK-FC-TITANX-NP 1 $125.99
> EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm Fan) Vertical EK-UNI-PUMPBK-120VERT 1 $13.49
> EK-Ekoolant EVO Blood RED (concentrate 100mL) EKOOLANT-EVO-100-RD 1 $9.99
> EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Water Block - Nickel/Plexi EK-SUPREMACY-EVO-NP 1 $77.95
> EK-Coolstream PE 240mm x 2
> Fractal Design Defne R5 Window case


This is pretty sweet. I personally like the soft tubing the wraps around like yours. That's why mine from the res to CPU is so long and twists around. It's more interesting to look at then straight lines everywhere. +rep


----------



## enkur

Woohoo no leaks so far. have plenty of bubbles to get rid of .. this would probably take a few days.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Woohoo no leaks so far. have plenty of bubbles to get rid of .. this would probably take a few days.


Are you a member on Linus Tech Tips? If you're the same guy I saw the otherday, still think you should of gone with bigger rads. Looking a bit bare there but nice job!


----------



## enkur

No I am not on Linus Tech Tips... different person I guess.

Well I couldnt go with bigger rads even if I wanted because I need to have access to my blu-ray drive. Its not in there at the moment.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Are you a member on Linus Tech Tips? If you're the same guy I saw the otherday, still think you should of gone with bigger rads. Looking a bit bare there but nice job!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Enhance your calm, John Spartan.


What seems to be your boggle?

Awesome film!


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Must be something going on with the temp sensors as we all know idling below ambient is impossibru.
> 
> 
> 
> im currently idling at 19C on my coolest core with 22.3C ambient temp and 25 water temp. i dont really understand why my water temp is higher than my ambient temp at idle...
Click to expand...

Temp sensors are designed to be most accurate at TJmax. The further you are away from it,the wilder the margin of error gets. Currently my lowest h2o temp is 25c, but I have 2 cores that have read lower.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Woohoo no leaks so far. have plenty of bubbles to get rid of .. this would probably take a few days.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, looks a little like my system, finished it 2 weeks ago



at what speed is your pump starting to make noise? i can hear mine at anything above 35%.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Temp sensors are designed to be most accurate at TJmax. The further you are away from it,the wilder the margin of error gets. Currently my lowest h2o temp is 25c, but I have 2 cores that have read lower.


Yup,especially with Bd/PD. Who cares about idle anyways, load is what counts.


----------



## superstition222

It doesn't help that SIV and HWINFO give me wildly different temperature reports with my UD3P 2.0 AM3+ board.

If SIV is correct I am hitting 71C quickly in Prime with a 360mm (PE) and 480mm (also PE) loop with just the CPU on it (4.4 GHz, 1.36V).

HWINFO says 55C.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> It doesn't help that SIV and HWINFO give me wildly different temperature reports with my UD3P 2.0 AM3+ board.
> 
> If SIV is correct I am hitting 71C quickly in Prime with a 360mm (PE) and 480mm (also PE) loop with just the CPU on it (4.4 GHz, 1.36V).
> 
> HWINFO says 55C.


I believe they're calculating distance from Tj Max based on a different assumed value. This is why some vendors say they only consider the value reported by the motherboard from within the BIOS as good.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pmo6D2yOj

https://imageshack.com/i/pmTykypdj

Couple of new bits.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Lately I`ve been looking at watercooling parts again, but the bummer is I`m runnin a define R5 and its not really that great for watercooling, can`t really fit in any decent size rads there, I quess the best one can expect from a R5 is a 360 and a 240, no way to fit 2x 360 in there i quess.

So here is my question, I have mostly already decided what parts I`m going for, but what I cannot decide is the thickness of the rads, what I will be cooling is one high end GPU and a 6700K overclocked as the site says








Everything else comes from EK shop aswell, but could you help me decide on the radiators, bear in mind case is R5, are there huge temp differences between the SE to XE or not that much ? I quess the R5 could fit a 360 XE + 240XE might get a bit cramped but if the cooling is so much better then I`m all for it, if not maybe its best to stick to PE, dont really fancy SE since its the slimmest but thats just my OCD.
So wich one would you go for, SE,PE or XE? Fans will be 1450rpm vardars.


----------



## ivoryg37

Does anyone know what EK warranty policy on their DDC pumps are? I used an Alphacool heatsink with my EK DDC PWM and it apparently shorted it out or something.


----------



## enkur

Wow we got it pretty close.

I am not changing my pump speed .. its running at whatever max its set on. I can barely hear the pump if the top cap is on. If I remove the little stopper I can hear it pretty loud.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> Nice, looks a little like my system, finished it 2 weeks ago
> 
> 
> 
> at what speed is your pump starting to make noise? i can hear mine at anything above 35%.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Wow we got it pretty close.
> 
> I am not changing my pump speed .. its running at whatever max its set on. I can barely hear the pump if the top cap is on. If I remove the little stopper I can hear it pretty loud.


so you didnt connect your pwm cable?
yeah but im currently getting rid of my corsair sp120 fans and buying noctua nf-f12, the corsair ones are not very good on my 19fpi rads and i can hear them at 50% speed and above. the nf f12 are inaudile until 70% and quieter at full speed, have double the static pressure and 50% more airflow so i dont know why i went with the corsair ones in the first place


----------



## enkur

I did connect the PWM cable to the motherboard connector that says waterpump. I am not sure if I to enable something in the bios for it to work or if its already working and its quiet and thats why I cant tell.

Ill check on the details when I get home later.

I have the SP120 quiet edition and they are very nice and quiet. My system temps seem pretty decent... although the TIM is new and it takes sometime to bake in. Currently idle temps are 32C and load is at 60C. The GPU temps are super nice at 28C for Idle (previously 50C) and I forget the load temp but it was nowhere near 78C that I had previously

My system is i7-6700K overclocked to 4.5GHz and GPU GTX 980 ti overclocked core by 1415MHz base and and memory by +294MHz
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> so you didnt connect your pwm cable?
> yeah but im currently getting rid of my corsair sp120 fans and buying noctua nf-f12, the corsair ones are not very good on my 19fpi rads and i can hear them at 50% speed and above. the nf f12 are inaudile until 70% and quieter at full speed, have double the static pressure and 50% more airflow so i dont know why i went with the corsair ones in the first place


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> *I did connect the PWM cable to the motherboard connector that says waterpump. I am not sure if I to enable something in the bios for it to work* or if its already working and its quiet and thats why I cant tell.
> 
> Ill check on the details when I get home later.
> 
> I have the SP120 quiet edition and they are very nice and quiet. My system temps seem pretty decent... although the TIM is new and it takes sometime to bake in. Currently idle temps are 32C and load is at 60C. The GPU temps are super nice at 28C for Idle (previously 50C) and I forget the load temp but it was nowhere near 78C that I had previously
> 
> My system is i7-6700K overclocked to 4.5GHz and GPU GTX 980 ti overclocked core by 1415MHz base and and memory by +294MHz
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> so you didnt connect your pwm cable?
> yeah but im currently getting rid of my corsair sp120 fans and buying noctua nf-f12, the corsair ones are not very good on my 19fpi rads and i can hear them at 50% speed and above. the nf f12 are inaudile until 70% and quieter at full speed, have double the static pressure and 50% more airflow so i dont know why i went with the corsair ones in the first place
Click to expand...

What is connected your CPU Fan header? That's where I'd connect the pump to... You can go into BIOS and set the fans to PWM, that should work...

Sorry if you've already done this. I haven't been following the thread lately...


----------



## enkur

I connected the 3 pin connector of the pump to the waterpump connector on the motherboard, the other one looked like the old hard drive power connector that I connected the power supply. I connected the two radiator fans to the cpu and cpu_opt connector on the motherboard (ASUS Maximus VIII Hero)

I can see in the ASUS AI software that I can change the pump speed (I had to enable PWM in the bios). I can see the pump slowing down as I change the rpm... so it seems to be working.
even at 100% I can barely hear the pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> What is connected your CPU Fan header? That's where I'd connect the pump to... You can go into BIOS and set the fans to PWM, that should work...
> 
> Sorry if you've already done this. I haven't been following the thread lately...


----------



## Jidonsu

Does anyone know
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Lately I`ve been looking at watercooling parts again, but the bummer is I`m runnin a define R5 and its not really that great for watercooling, can`t really fit in any decent size rads there, I quess the best one can expect from a R5 is a 360 and a 240, no way to fit 2x 360 in there i quess.
> 
> So here is my question, I have mostly already decided what parts I`m going for, but what I cannot decide is the thickness of the rads, what I will be cooling is one high end GPU and a 6700K overclocked as the site says
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything else comes from EK shop aswell, but could you help me decide on the radiators, bear in mind case is R5, are there huge temp differences between the SE to XE or not that much ? I quess the R5 could fit a 360 XE + 240XE might get a bit cramped but if the cooling is so much better then I`m all for it, if not maybe its best to stick to PE, dont really fancy SE since its the slimmest but thats just my OCD.
> So wich one would you go for, SE,PE or XE? Fans will be 1450rpm vardars.


Are you using the optical cages or hard drive cages? I assume something is being removed if you're using the 360.

If you have them removed, you can fit two PE360s in there.

Here's a build done in a Define S. The interior dimensions are practically identical.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1570312/build-log-fractal-define-s-x99-980-sli-watercooled-lf-reaction-reservoir


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> I did connect the PWM cable to the motherboard connector that says waterpump. I am not sure if I to enable something in the bios for it to work or if its already working and its quiet and thats why I cant tell.
> 
> Ill check on the details when I get home later.
> 
> I have the SP120 quiet edition and they are very nice and quiet. My system temps seem pretty decent... although the TIM is new and it takes sometime to bake in. Currently idle temps are 32C and load is at 60C. The GPU temps are super nice at 28C for Idle (previously 50C) and I forget the load temp but it was nowhere near 78C that I had previously
> 
> My system is i7-6700K overclocked to 4.5GHz and GPU GTX 980 ti overclocked core by 1415MHz base and and memory by +294MHz


i have a 6700k overclocked to 4.5GHz at 1.3V and a Gigabyte G1 980Ti at 1586MHz core and 4000MHz memory. max temp i saw on my gpu was 51C after two hours of gaming. water temp was 39C with ambient temp at 24C. DeltaT of 15 is not ideal, thats why i change my corsair fans to noctua...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> I connected the 3 pin connector of the pump to the waterpump connector on the motherboard, the other one looked like the old hard drive power connector that I connected the power supply. I connected the two radiator fans to the cpu and cpu_opt connector on the motherboard (ASUS Maximus VIII Hero)
> 
> I can see in the ASUS AI software that I can change the pump speed (I had to enable PWM in the bios). I can see the pump slowing down as I change the rpm... so it seems to be working.
> even at 100% I can barely hear the pump.


are you sure you are changing the pump speed? whats your pump rpm at 100%?? i can hear mine very loud at 100% which is about 4500rpm.


----------



## Astrobleme

Greetings Overclockers!
Not sure if this is the right thread to post in or not but here goes.

Planning on using EK everything. Blocks fittings the whole 9 yards.

Going to be housing all the stuff roughly outlined above in a case labs sma8 with an additional pedestal.

This rig is mainly for the experience of building a custom loop. Want to graduate out of baby's first AIO. Noise level Is not a factor. If the case sounds like a wind tunnel it gets bonus points.







I want the loop to keep the cpu and gpus as close to ambient as physics will allow at all times. Don't have any plans on overclocking yet.

Time for 20 questions woohoo!

Is it bad to have 3 reservoirs feed into a single inlet like that? I know I don't need 3 reservoirs, 1 is plenty for a single loop. But I like the look.

Will the reservoirs be drained equally over time? I'd like to avoid uneven visible coolant levels if possible.

Do I need more than 1,500 L/H the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial gives?

Can Reservoirs return from the loop be filled at the bottom?

Does the return feed have to go to the top of the reservoir?

I plan on having mounting 8 EK-Furious Vardar FF4-140 to the two 140x4 rads. They will on a separate toggle switch for when I really want to kick the engines to 11.

Will having fans not currently in use cause so much drag on normal TT riing 14's that is not even worth having a second set on standby and just keep all fans on?

Where would the best location for a T line out to a drain valve be? The lowest point in the system is going to be the bottom 140 inlet.

I know there have been recalls on the predator aio. Don't want to invest a bunch of money into kit that I'll have a hard time fighting CS over whatever problems arise. How would you rate EK compared to all other water cooling manufacturers on the market in terms of product support?

Can I mix rigid and soft tubing through the loop? I just want hard tubing between the two gpu blocks. Without using the terminal products.

What is the hands down best 3/4" soft tubing ek offers in the shop? Plan on using their Blood red concentrate. Don't want to be dealing with discoloration or growths inside the tubes.

Thanks all for your time,
Astro


----------



## funfordcobra

You're gonna have fun bleedin that


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astrobleme*
> 
> 
> 
> Greetings Overclockers!
> Not sure if this is the right thread to post in or not but here goes.
> 
> Planning on using EK everything. Blocks fittings the whole 9 yards.
> 
> Going to be housing all the stuff roughly outlined above in a case labs sma8 with an additional pedestal.
> 
> This rig is mainly for the experience of building a custom loop. Want to graduate out of baby's first AIO. Noise level Is not a factor. If the case sounds like a wind tunnel it gets bonus points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want the loop to keep the cpu and gpus as close to ambient as physics will allow at all times. Don't have any plans on overclocking yet.
> 
> Time for 20 questions woohoo!
> 
> Is it bad to have 3 reservoirs feed into a single inlet like that? I know I don't need 3 reservoirs, 1 is plenty for a single loop. But I like the look.
> 
> Will the reservoirs be drained equally over time? I'd like to avoid uneven visible coolant levels if possible.
> 
> Do I need more than 1,500 L/H the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial gives?
> 
> Can Reservoirs return from the loop be filled at the bottom?
> 
> Does the return feed have to go to the top of the reservoir?
> 
> I plan on having mounting 8 EK-Furious Vardar FF4-140 to the two 140x4 rads. They will on a separate toggle switch for when I really want to kick the engines to 11.
> 
> Will having fans not currently in use cause so much drag on normal TT riing 14's that is not even worth having a second set on standby and just keep all fans on?
> 
> Where would the best location for a T line out to a drain valve be? The lowest point in the system is going to be the bottom 140 inlet.
> 
> I know there have been recalls on the predator aio. Don't want to invest a bunch of money into kit that I'll have a hard time fighting CS over whatever problems arise. How would you rate EK compared to all other water cooling manufacturers on the market in terms of product support?
> 
> Can I mix rigid and soft tubing through the loop? I just want hard tubing between the two gpu blocks. Without using the terminal products.
> 
> What is the hands down best 3/4" soft tubing ek offers in the shop? Plan on using their Blood red concentrate. Don't want to be dealing with discoloration or growths inside the tubes.
> 
> Thanks all for your time,
> Astro


imo there is absolutely no reason to make a loop that complicated, even if its just for ascetics, its just way too much.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Does anyone know
> Are you using the optical cages or hard drive cages? I assume something is being removed if you're using the 360.
> 
> If you have them removed, you can fit two PE360s in there.
> 
> Here's a build done in a Define S. The interior dimensions are practically identical.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1570312/build-log-fractal-define-s-x99-980-sli-watercooled-lf-reaction-reservoir


Nope just SSD-s and no opticals, glad to hear 2x 360 will fit, 240mm didnt just feel right. thank you








Really loving the T-Virus res aswell, might get one for myself aswell.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astrobleme*
> 
> 
> 
> Greetings Overclockers!
> Not sure if this is the right thread to post in or not but here goes.
> 
> Planning on using EK everything. Blocks fittings the whole 9 yards.
> 
> Going to be housing all the stuff roughly outlined above in a case labs sma8 with an additional pedestal.
> 
> This rig is mainly for the experience of building a custom loop. Want to graduate out of baby's first AIO. Noise level Is not a factor. If the case sounds like a wind tunnel it gets bonus points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want the loop to keep the cpu and gpus as close to ambient as physics will allow at all times. Don't have any plans on overclocking yet.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Time for 20 questions woohoo!
> 
> Is it bad to have 3 reservoirs feed into a single inlet like that? I know I don't need 3 reservoirs, 1 is plenty for a single loop. But I like the look.
> 
> Will the reservoirs be drained equally over time? I'd like to avoid uneven visible coolant levels if possible.
> 
> Do I need more than 1,500 L/H the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial gives?
> 
> Can Reservoirs return from the loop be filled at the bottom?
> 
> Does the return feed have to go to the top of the reservoir?
> 
> I plan on having mounting 8 EK-Furious Vardar FF4-140 to the two 140x4 rads. They will on a separate toggle switch for when I really want to kick the engines to 11.
> 
> Will having fans not currently in use cause so much drag on normal TT riing 14's that is not even worth having a second set on standby and just keep all fans on?
> 
> Where would the best location for a T line out to a drain valve be? The lowest point in the system is going to be the bottom 140 inlet.
> 
> I know there have been recalls on the predator aio. Don't want to invest a bunch of money into kit that I'll have a hard time fighting CS over whatever problems arise. How would you rate EK compared to all other water cooling manufacturers on the market in terms of product support?
> 
> Can I mix rigid and soft tubing through the loop? I just want hard tubing between the two gpu blocks. Without using the terminal products.
> 
> What is the hands down best 3/4" soft tubing ek offers in the shop? Plan on using their Blood red concentrate. Don't want to be dealing with discoloration or growths inside the tubes.
> 
> Thanks all for your time,
> 
> 
> Astro


That's a pretty aggressive project you have envisioned.

As a new poster with no track record to give us an idea of your experience/skill level, it's hard to make much of a critique . . . . But . . . for some general thoughts . . .

When it comes to aesthetics in general, the SMA8, especially with a pedestal, lends itself particularly well to dual loops.

It lets you set up a nice size loop, rad space wise, in the top area, and optionally the flex bays, for the CPU and mobo blocks, and be able to keep the tubing runs fairly short and segregated within that general area of the case.

The second loop, for the GPUs, then has the lower space and ped for the rads, and that keeps the tubing runs fairly short and segregated to that area.

To run everything with a single loop, while quite doable with a dual D5 pump, isn't likely to look as clean and orderly because of the top to bottom tubing runs.

It will also be harder to bleed and drain than either of the loops would be in a dual system, and require draining the whole thing for any issue, instead of just the affected loop.

With the SMA8, you're pretty limited to 2 reservoirs if you have a rad in the front, although without it, you could probably get three.

Running res's in parallel works OK, but using top return ensures less stagnation issues, and the way you manage the plumbing could be important.

Darlene

Here's a pic of a dual parallel res setup for a single loop (red) and a dual parallel res - dual loop setup (white and blue) all on dual D5 pumps for each pair of res's, so there's some pretty unique ways to make parallel res schemes happen.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> What seems to be your boggle?
> 
> Awesome film!


Mello Greetings,

This new 6700K seems to defy science and all known laws of thermodynamics. (maybe)









Two days ago, hoping possibly to drop under 20C (19C or 18C) at idle once this CPU goes underwater with a monoblock or EVO, but this morning while still on air here it is! Snapped the ambient air temp right after the CPUID HWMonitor screenshot, then the setup shot 1,2,3.

Only change (delta







) from last reading was swapping out the Vardar 120mm ER to the 150mm Noctua fan that arrived with the NH-D15, and switched the digital thermometer over to Celsius.

Perhaps during the delidding, the guy from Siliconlottery ran out of CoolLabs liquid metal and used a cold generating orphaned nuclear isotope, after all he is a highly skilled man inspiring "joy-joy feelings" in all those around him.









Gotta go, that coffee went right through me, gotta remember how to use those three sea shells?









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4906_zpsvq7ojplp.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4905_zpsalyvg4fp.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4907_zpsb1e3sxvn.jpg.html


----------



## Cozmo85

Is my DDC 3.2 PWM enough for cpu block, gpu block, and 2 thick 360mm rads?

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-plexi-incl-pump

Im assuming it is but just wanted to make sure.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Is my DDC 3.2 PWM enough for cpu block, gpu block, and 2 thick 360mm rads?
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-plexi-incl-pump
> 
> Im assuming it is but just wanted to make sure.


Yes absolutely.


----------



## PhantomWorks

shud be you get same OC room also,

Cheers Juha


----------



## Astrobleme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> As a new poster with no track record to give us an idea of your experience/skill level, it's hard to make much of a critique . . . . But . . . for some general thoughts . . .


Yeah maybe to aggressive. After my 980ti strix gpus melted down on stock everything (waiting on rma to finish as to what the problem is) I decided to finally pull the trigger and go full custom. I suspect some of the cables from the fan shroud shorted on the heat pipes. Can't melt fan cables if there are no fans to control.









Been reading/watching all kinds of water cooling things for about 4 months now.
Only have installed a corsair h105 as practical "water cooling" experience though.

Dual loops sound cool and all but I'm kinda hesitant it sounds like I need a lot more fittings for that. Don't want my inexperience to introduce twice as many failure points just for the sake of having multiple loops.

From what I've read anyways it's better to have everything on one loop as all parts will eventually stabilize and having all rads cooling all parts is better than a uneven distribution of blocks to rads through separate loops. Not sure if that has changed been seeing all kinds of info on best practices with some links going as far back to the early 2000s.

Would having the res's mounted horizontally and having the in and out on the same res top or bottom help prevent stagnation?

As far as what I've been told by case labs support is that there is 360mm between the front panel and the sma8 mobo tray. I figured 240mm for res's + 51mm for rad and fans. Not sure if I'm overlooking something.

I'm going to be running a majority of the loop behind the mobo tray like I've seen on some build logs. Then using EK-AF Pass-Through everywhere a tube run needs to go inside the main chambers. Unless there are clearance issues with 3/4" tubes that I haven't read about.

As far as a blocks go I plan on using these:
x1 EK-Supremacy EVO - Full Nickel
x2 EK-FC980 GTX Ti Strix - Nickel with the nickle back plate


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Mello Greetings,
> 
> This new 6700K seems to defy science and all known laws of thermodynamics. (maybe)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two days ago, hoping possibly to drop under 20C (19C or 18C) at idle once this CPU goes underwater with a monoblock or EVO, but this morning while still on air here it is! Snapped the ambient air temp right after the CPUID HWMonitor screenshot, then the setup shot 1,2,3.
> 
> Only change (delta
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) from last reading was swapping out the Vardar 120mm ER to the 150mm Noctua fan that arrived with the NH-D15, and switched the digital thermometer over to Celsius.
> 
> Perhaps during the delidding, the guy from Siliconlottery ran out of CoolLabs liquid metal and used a cold generating orphaned nuclear isotope, after all he is a highly skilled man inspiring "joy-joy feelings" in all those around him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gotta go, that coffee went right through me, gotta remember how to use those three sea shells?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4906_zpsvq7ojplp.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4905_zpsalyvg4fp.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4907_zpsb1e3sxvn.jpg.html


Everything about this post made my day! Glad to see the Demo Man references are still going strong as well


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astrobleme*
> 
> As far as a blocks go I plan on using these:
> x1 EK-Supremacy EVO - Full Nickel
> x2 EK-FC980 GTX Ti Strix - Nickel with the nickle back plate


Don't mix silver and nickel


----------



## tatmMRKIV

...wait.. why? I got silver kill coils in my nickel blocked loops whats gonna happen/?


----------



## superstition222

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> ...wait.. why? I got silver kill coils in my nickel blocked loops whats gonna happen/?


Allegedly, it's a bad idea because of galvanic corrosion. Others, though, say the solder used for radiators is an issue that most people overlook.

I would prefer to use water and silver to avoid the headache-inducing odor of the EK liquid.

If an anti-corrosive can protect copper and nickle from the solder then maybe it can also protect them from silver. I don't know.

Personally I would like to see a loop that's all one metal instead of the mixing of nickle and copper. The cynic in me wonders if it's done to make galvanic corrosion more of an issue. However, if the solder is indeed an issue then an anti-corrosive would need to be used regardless.


----------



## Gilles3000

I would take the silver out of your loop, its just one more thing capable of causing galvanic corrosion, and iirc its less effective than biocide anyway.


----------



## Astrobleme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Don't mix silver and nickel


I don't see silver listed anywhere on those blocks product pages...


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pn0Ka39xj

https://imageshack.com/i/plxvjRNVj

Added a heatsink to the predator.


----------



## enkur

The ASUS AI Suite is reporting the waterpump at around 4800rpm.... Actually now that the room is very quiet I can hear the pump and the volume goes down as I change the RPM.

What is a reasonable RPM to leave the system on. I can vary the RPM in AI suite based on CPU temperature.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> i have a 6700k overclocked to 4.5GHz at 1.3V and a Gigabyte G1 980Ti at 1586MHz core and 4000MHz memory. max temp i saw on my gpu was 51C after two hours of gaming. water temp was 39C with ambient temp at 24C. DeltaT of 15 is not ideal, thats why i change my corsair fans to noctua...
> are you sure you are changing the pump speed? whats your pump rpm at 100%?? i can hear mine very loud at 100% which is about 4500rpm.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> i have a 6700k overclocked to 4.5GHz at 1.3V and a Gigabyte G1 980Ti at 1586MHz core and 4000MHz memory. max temp i saw on my gpu was 51C after two hours of gaming. water temp was 39C with ambient temp at 24C. DeltaT of 15 is not ideal, thats why i change my corsair fans to noctua...
> are you sure you are changing the pump speed? whats your pump rpm at 100%?? i can hear mine very loud at 100% which is about 4500rpm.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> i have a 6700k overclocked to 4.5GHz at 1.3V and a Gigabyte G1 980Ti at 1586MHz core and 4000MHz memory. max temp i saw on my gpu was 51C after two hours of gaming. water temp was 39C with ambient temp at 24C. DeltaT of 15 is not ideal, thats why i change my corsair fans to noctua...
> are you sure you are changing the pump speed? whats your pump rpm at 100%?? i can hear mine very loud at 100% which is about 4500rpm.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I would take the silver out of your loop, its just one more thing capable of causing galvanic corrosion, and iirc its less effective than biocide anyway.


will do then. I also use deadwater. I havent had an issue yet but I havent monitored my loop very closely for any corrosion.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> The ASUS AI Suite is reporting the waterpump at around 4800rpm.... Actually now that the room is very quiet I can hear the pump and the volume goes down as I change the RPM.
> 
> What is a reasonable RPM to leave the system on. I can vary the RPM in AI suite based on CPU temperature.


i have mine running at 35% (1400rpm) all the time, more rpm make no temperature diffeence in my loop, at 70% speed and above my temps start to get worse...
i wouldnt change it based on cpu temp, the constantly changing speed would annoy me and yield no real benefit


----------



## funfordcobra

I have a weird head pressure problem that I haven't been able to figure out so I leave mine at 4800 rpms and temps are fine.

Anything under that is no good. Not sure if I have a fitting too tight somewhere near the parallel block configuration that is blocking flow. No one seems to really know.

Guess I'll find out when it's time to totally disassemble and clean when pascal comes out.

At 4800 I can't hear my pump at all but I can feel it vibrating alittle.


----------



## zerophase

Awhile back on this thread, I had read there's an issue with the EK XE radiators leaking at the end tanks from expansion. I just wanted to check if the warranty on those radiators is the same as the Predator. If my radiator explodes spraying water all over the case will my parts be replaced.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Awhile back on this thread, I had read there's an issue with the EK XE radiators leaking at the end tanks from expansion. I just wanted to check if the warranty on those radiators is the same as the Predator. If my radiator explodes spraying water all over the case will my parts be replaced.


That XE expansion was a very small number, less than ten if I remember correctly. Pretty sure EK would take it case by case, but would not let that unfortunate happenstance forego your purchase.

Good to remember though, I have two XE 240s and a CE 280, all ready to get wet, and blitzed this week.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3087_zpsyzjtr1oz.jpg.html

These pumps below seem like way more power than I need for single CPU single GPU short loop. Why do these photos somehow find there way to me and then force me to question previous hardware decisions? Why? Why? Why is the Mango?









edit addendum: New rule at the EK Club: you must add a humorous (causing lighthearted laughter and amusement) SNL or movie reference to each post highlighting your current EK build circumstance and/or dilemma or recent EK purchase.









jk

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/magnetic_nrd_01_zpsilkg3g4o.jpg.html


----------



## SteezyTN

So I've never used a top before, as I have always used res' combos. I have a D5 vario (not EK unfortunately) that I have laying around. I was going to sell it to a friend, but it's been over a few months since he's contacted me. Well I may just use it in my loop because I believe I'm having air flow issues. My loop is reaching delta temps of about 15c. I'm ordering a koolance flow meter, but I'm also going to order the top as well to save money on shipping, etc.

Now, I see that EK only sells the D5 revo top, and not the square resigns anymore. Would I be all set to just buy the revo top, and that's it? I've never used one before, and I'm wanting to know if I need to buy anything else. Like I said, all I have is the D5 vario.

Thanks all


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I've never used a top before, as I have always used res' combos. I have a D5 vario (not EK unfortunately) that I have laying around. I was going to sell it to a friend, but it's been over a few months since he's contacted me. Well I may just use it in my loop because I believe I'm having air flow issues. My loop is reaching delta temps of about 15c. I'm ordering a koolance flow meter, but I'm also going to order the top as well to save money on shipping, etc.
> 
> Now, I see that EK only sells the D5 revo top, and not the square resigns anymore. Would I be all set to just buy the revo top, and that's it? I've never used one before, and I'm wanting to know if I need to buy anything else. Like I said, all I have is the D5 vario.
> 
> Thanks all


The D5 Vario is the same no matter where you buy it from.. yes all you need is the top everything you need is in it.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I've never used a top before, as I have always used res' combos. I have a D5 vario (not EK unfortunately) that I have laying around. I was going to sell it to a friend, but it's been over a few months since he's contacted me. Well I may just use it in my loop because I believe I'm having air flow issues. My loop is reaching delta temps of about 15c. I'm ordering a koolance flow meter, but I'm also going to order the top as well to save money on shipping, etc.
> 
> Now, I see that EK only sells the D5 revo top, and not the square resigns anymore. Would I be all set to just buy the revo top, and that's it? I've never used one before, and I'm wanting to know if I need to buy anything else. Like I said, all I have is the D5 vario.
> 
> Thanks all


The REVO top will work just fine with your D5 Vario, I have both the REVO and the older EK tops.

PPCS still has some of the older black acetal D5 tops left, 17 to be exact, but they make you buy another D5, just to get the XTOP.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xtop-d5-vario-acetal-incl-pump.html

I like the older EK square tops and square XRES since they both offered four corners to attach soft feet and isolate the noise.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> The D5 Vario is the same no matter where you buy it from.. yes all you need is the top everything you need is in it.


Okay thanks. Also, could I use the UNI holder and mount it to my 560 rad? I'm trying to research it, but the pictures only show it directly on a fan.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> The REVO top will work just fine with your D5 Vario, I have both the REVO and the older EK tops.
> 
> PPCS still has some of the older black acetal D5 tops left, 17 to be exact, but they make you buy another D5, just to get the XTOP.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xtop-d5-vario-acetal-incl-pump.html
> 
> I like the older EK square tops and square XRES since they both offered four corners to attach soft feet and isolate the noise.


Thanks. Yeah I saw that, but I don't need the full thing. I already have the PC. All I need is the top, mainly to improve flow in my loop. I'm already at the top of my budget, and this really isn't needed, but I want to get better temps.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay thanks. Also, could I use the UNI holder and mount it to my 560 rad? I'm trying to research it, but the pictures only show it directly on a fan.
> Thanks. Yeah I saw that, but I don't need the full thing. I already have the PC. All I need is the top, mainly to improve flow in my loop. I'm already at the top of my budget, and this really isn't needed, but I want to get better temps.


I would think you could mount it to a rad but not 100% sure as i have not done this


----------



## SteezyTN

Does anyone know if you can mount the revo D5 to a radiator Using the UNI regular holder? All I see in pics is it mounted to the actual fan. I'm placing it in the bottom compartment of my case , and the fans on the rad are on the outside.so I would need to mount it to the actual rad, UNLESS, I actually have space on the ground lol


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Does anyone know if you can mount the revo D5 to a radiator Using the UNI regular holder? All I see in pics is it mounted to the actual fan. I'm placing it in the bottom compartment of my case , and the fans on the rad are on the outside.so I would need to mount it to the actual rad, UNLESS, I actually have space on the ground lol


If it fits in the fan holes it will fit a rad.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Does anyone know if you can mount the revo D5 to a radiator Using the UNI regular holder? All I see in pics is it mounted to the actual fan. I'm placing it in the bottom compartment of my case , and the fans on the rad are on the outside.so I would need to mount it to the actual rad, UNLESS, I actually have space on the ground lol


EK makes at least (3) 120mmx120mm UNI mounts that allow direct mounting of a REVO D5 assembly to fans or rads.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical.html

The older XRES UNI mount also works if you have one.

and these 50/70 mounts are great if you want to change the mounting angle by 90 degrees, just get out your sketchpad and start designing. One of the reasons I gravitated towards EK when building my first loop 18months ago, so many mounting choices. makes a big difference when designing a loop with the right amount of ZEN space and air flow considerations.









http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-uni-holder-50-70-reservoir-brackets.html

EK maintains some tremendous engineers.









This is the UNI mount I'm working with currently.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Does anyone know if you can mount the revo D5 to a radiator Using the UNI regular holder? All I see in pics is it mounted to the actual fan. I'm placing it in the bottom compartment of my case , and the fans on the rad are on the outside.so I would need to mount it to the actual rad, UNLESS, I actually have space on the ground lol


the EK UNI pump holder will fit on any rad with 120mm fan holes, just use the 5mm screws that come with the rad to mount it


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> the EK UNI pump holder will fit on any rad with 120mm fan holes, just use the 5mm screws that come with the rad to mount it


How do you like your 6700K 0xzzy?

Only had mine 5days now, its extremely fast even at stock 4.2GHz, and runs extremely cold, very happy with the delidding, it was worth the $39.95. I can't stop talking about it. Blaaaaaah









Did some way too easy very lazy overclocking using only the multiplier, just ballparking the volts:

4.6GHz 1.200volts

4.8GHz 1.300volts

...this week I'll spend some time and reach some more power efficient oc's using BCLK.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> How do you like your 6700K 0xzzy?
> 
> Only had mine 5days now, its extremely fast even at stock 4.2GHz, and runs extremely cold, very happy with the delidding, it was worth the $39.95. I can't stop talking about it. Blaaaaaah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did some way too easy very lazy overclocking using only the multiplier, just ballparking the volts:
> 
> 4.6GHz 1.200volts
> 
> 4.8GHz 1.300volts
> 
> ...this week I'll spend some time and reach some more power efficient oc's using BCLK.


i really dont like mine, looks like i cant even get it stable at 4.7GHz with 1.42V , its just the worst


----------



## SteezyTN

Lol I forgot they only make it for the 120 rad/fan. I'm going to order a BGears 140 to 120 fan adapter.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> i really dont like mine, looks like i cant even get it stable at 4.7GHz with 1.42V , its just the worst


ah man, can you return within your 30-day window?

I gave 4.9GHz a try, just once at 1.400 volts, and it blue screened, so dropped back to 4.6GHz 1.200volts. 4.6GHz so far is my favorite balance of performance/temps.

I saved $300 waiting for the EVGA 980 KingPin to drop from $799 down to $499 picked it up on sale last July, and put that $300 savings toward this 6700K.

Cherry picked and binned at 4.8GHz from Siliconlottery.com. It "cough cough" cost a lot, just shy of $600 for a quad-core? I know, sounds crazy but my rig will benefit from increased CPU performance and silicon efficiency much more than it would from a very powerful video card.

So far I don't regret spending the extra $150 on this 6700K, its been an absolute "hardware-love-affair".









http://siliconlottery.com/products/6700k48g

.


----------



## iBruce

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4942_zpsg3h47upm.jpg.html


----------



## Origondoo

Hey everyone. I'm anout to order the EK Revo top for the d5. But one thing I'm not sure about. Dors it come with the o-ring? Could find any in the description


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Hey everyone. I'm anout to order the EK Revo top for the d5. But one thing I'm not sure about. Dors it come with the o-ring? Could find any in the description


Yes, oring included in the box.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Hey everyone. I'm anout to order the EK Revo top for the d5. But one thing I'm not sure about. Dors it come with the o-ring? Could find any in the description


It does indeed


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> the EK UNI pump holder will fit on any rad with 120mm fan holes, just use the 5mm screws that come with the rad to mount it


...and any fan mount, of course (not only for rads.)


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> ...and any fan mount, of course (not only for rads.)


yeah he knew he could fit it on a fan because the installation manual shows it on fans, he wanted to know if it would work on a rad


----------



## 1Scotty1

Finally I can officially join this club


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Finally I can officially join this club


You belong here, Wooooot.









...and now the classic sensual hardware unwrapping photograph. "That is fairly sexy Bruce now that you mention it."









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3734_zpsbs3pknpz.jpg.html


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> You belong here, Wooooot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and now the classic sensual hardware unwrapping photograph. "That is fairly sexy Bruce now that you mention it."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3734_zpsbs3pknpz.jpg.html


As seen on reddit, apparently.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> It does indeed


Thanks for the info







So I do not need to order the o-rings extra.


----------



## akira749

Popular EK-XRES Revo D5 series is getting a Glass variant


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Popular EK-XRES Revo D5 series is getting a Glass variant


Will EK offer the glass XRES REVOs without the D5?

So of the three top ports, none are in communication with the central tube? So all three can only be used as fill ports? Why three?

The suction hole in the central tube could offer some nice visual effects.

Is there a coating on the glass so coolant droplets-condensation cannot collect, and simply roll down the inner surface of the tube?



.


----------



## DyndaS

First LC


----------



## Dagamus NM

980ti matrix waterblocks. Any plan to make one? I want to buy these cards now that they are out and christmas is behind me but I need to know if they will have a waterblock for them. I know they are too wide for a thermosphere to fit, well at least in a quad configuration.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> 980ti matrix waterblocks. Any plan to make one? I want to buy these cards now that they are out and christmas is behind me but I need to know if they will have a waterblock for them. I know they are too wide for a thermosphere to fit, well at least in a quad configuration.


We have no plans for this card.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We have no plans for this card.


How's your health? Are you feeling better, get some rest and relaxation?









Get away from the Predator thing for a few days?


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> First LC


Very pretty.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> How's your health? Are you feeling better, get some rest and relaxation?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get away from the Predator thing for a few days?


I'm still on meds until the end of the week but i'm getting better everyday.

Thanks


----------



## fisher6

Is it possible to mix Mayhems UV Clear Blue dye with EK UV Blue premixed? The UV effect is starting to fade away.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> First LC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is this case the Evolv ATX or the smaller one?


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We have no plans for this card.


Bummer, last time there were blocks but the cards all sold out before I could get them. Maybe on the next gen then. Thanks.


----------



## DyndaS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Is this case the Evolv ATX or the smaller one?


ATX


----------



## funfordcobra

How would dual loops through 1 res workout? I want to add another pump but theres no room in my case for another 250res.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> How would dual loops through 1 res workout? I want to add another pump but theres no room in my case for another 250res.


You'd end up with one, big, single, loop!!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I'm still on meds until the end of the week but i'm getting better everyday.
> 
> Thanks


Why you not share your good meds ?

Also any plans to make a bigger glass resevoir??? 250 or maybe 400 mm?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> How would dual loops through 1 res workout? I want to add another pump but theres no room in my case for another 250res.


I can't imagine it would be a problem. You have a multiport bottom with 2 outlets going to each pump, and a multiport top with 2 inlets coming from each loop. The res after all is just a place to fill your loop, once the system is up and running and bled, its just there to look pertty.


----------



## funfordcobra

I guess it would be easier to just do two inline pumps. I was overcomplicating things.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> How would dual loops through 1 res workout? I want to add another pump *but theres no room in my case for another 250res*.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I guess it would be easier to just do two inline pumps. I was overcomplicating things.


That's kind of the key to your answer right there . . . .

Without room for another res, there's likely not room for additional raddage.

With dual loops, you don't have 1 rad, (loop) picking up the slack when the other loop is the more heavily loaded one.

In a single loop, whatever rad space you have gets all the heat load from both the CPU and GPU(s), but since most of the time, one is more heavily loaded than the other, you're good with less rad than if you had dedicated loops.

When space is at a premium, a single loop will always be the more effective plan.

The advantage of dual pumps in series, is it lets you run them slower for the same flow rate, and that's usually quieter, . . .plus you then have redundancy.

Darlene


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Is it possible to mix Mayhems UV Clear Blue dye with EK UV Blue premixed? The UV effect is starting to fade away.


Yes you can but I can't promise you it will bring the full UV effect back.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Why you not share your good meds ?
> 
> Also any plans to make a bigger glass resevoir??? 250 or maybe 400 mm?


There's unfortunately no "good" meds in what I currently take









We'll check how the sales of the first 2 sizes go first. So maybe in the future but not now.


----------



## sperson1

Very First Build


----------



## 0xzz

what temperatures should i expect on a Gigabyte G1 980Ti (no OC) with an ek waterblock and one ek coolstream pe 240 and a pe 360?? i also have a i7 6700k in my loop but my cpu is not really doing much when running gpu benchmarks


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> There's unfortunately no "good" meds in what I currently take


Antibiotics, I'm guessing akira acquired a secondary chronic sinusitis after a primary bout with the common flu.

Get Well Soon Brother.









Another shopping excursion to PPCS, brought home some goodies.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4954_zpsmhivmwxo.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4950_zps2qef0ju0.jpg.html


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> what temperatures should i expect on a Gigabyte G1 980Ti (no OC) with an ek waterblock and one ek coolstream pe 240 and a pe 360?? i also have a i7 6700k in my loop but my cpu is not really doing much when running gpu benchmarks


What is your ambient room temperature? I see between 40 and 50 Celsius with a very similar configuration. I live in Texas.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> What is your ambient room temperature? I see between 40 and 50 Celsius with a very similar configuration. I live in Texas.


my room temp is 22-24C, my water temp on idle is 25-26C. on stock bios, my 980ti goes up to 45C with my water temp at 33C and with a mod bios and high OC my gpu can get to 50 with my water at 38.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> There's unfortunately no "good" meds in what I currently take
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Antibiotics, I'm guessing akira acquired a secondary chronic sinusitis after a primary bout with the common flu.
Click to expand...

What kind of "common flu"? I just drink hot tea when I get flu.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> What kind of "common flu"? I just drink hot tea when I get flu.


U R Superman.









Influenza (flu) virus drops me to my knees for 5days then sinusitis always for another 10days of Amoxicillin. Thankfully it only happens once every 3years.

Trying to get cozy with a new build aesthetic, its not that easy. Not sure if I like it yet.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4974_zpsk7e9cfst.jpg.html


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> What kind of "common flu"? I just drink hot tea when I get flu.
> 
> 
> 
> U R Superman.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Influenza (flu) virus drops me to my knees for 5days then sinusitis always for another 10days of Amoxicillin. Thankfully it only happens once every 3years.
> 
> Trying to get cozy with a new build aesthetic, its not that easy. Not sure if I like it yet.
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4974_zpsk7e9cfst.jpg.html
Click to expand...

Looks pertty smexy to me.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Looks pertty smexy to me.


Really?









but its a serious work rig, not supposed to have white rotating gadgets dancing and spinning on the front.









This is the view with no air filtration, shiny bright white.



...and this is the view with a Demciflex 140.2 FlexBay filter in place, light to medium gray, which I sort of like better, more subdued.


----------



## fast_fate

This is still the EK club right ??
I get confused with all iBruce's random shots of his build and parts inventory.
The posts that include EK parts at times seem a token effort to include EK...
so I have to check occasionally


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> This is still the EK club right ??
> I get confused with all iBruce's random shots of his build and parts inventory.
> The posts that include EK parts at times seem a token effort to include EK...
> so I have to check occasionally


such a mean person.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> This is still the EK club right ??
> I get confused with all iBruce's random shots of his build and parts inventory.
> The posts that include EK parts at times seem a token effort to include EK...
> so I have to check occasionally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> such a mean person.
Click to expand...

He's not the only one feeling this way bud. He does have a point, this is the EK club







build does look good though.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> such a mean person.


Dont you just have a build log, update that more regularly


----------



## Tuimatoe

Hello all,

New to the Club.

Thought I'd share some pics of my build so far to show off some EK gear!





It's a work in progress, waiting on some fittings to arrive and have some minor details to complete.

EK-XTOP DDC 3.2 PWM Elite Pump Plexi
EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC970 GTX TFX Acetal Nickel and back plate
EK Supremacy EVO CPU Waterblock Nickel
EK RES X3 250 Reservoir

even got

EK AF 2 Way Ball Valve G1/4 Black and EK CSQ G1/4 Plug with EK Badge Black









I'll post a finished build soon I hope


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The posts that include EK parts at times seem a token effort to include EK...
> so I have to check occasionally


Just to keep fast_fate happy....









I installed one of the last in captivity CSQ dual D5 pump tops in my current build the other day....


Still not quite sold on their latest offering - just a personal preference...!: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial-incl-pump

Just curious if EK will ever make the dual pump housing available without the pumps? Not too keen on investing in their complete top+pumps package if I want to run Aquacomputer USB D5 offerings.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> I installed one of the last in captivity CSQ dual D5 pump tops in my current build the other day....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still not quite sold on their latest offering - just a personal preference...!: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial-incl-pump
> 
> Just curious if EK will ever make the dual pump housing available without the pumps? Not too keen on investing in their complete top+pumps package if I want to run Aquacomputer USB D5 offerings.


Nice!








I feel the same way, preferring EK's previous dual-D5 housing.
I have one a generation older, it's still going strong.
Imo the mounting bracket is a better design on the CSQ version, then the one on mine.

It would be smart for EK to offer the Revo Dual-D5 without the pumps.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

personally I love the new revo but I am not buying it with the pumps they are selling them with.. too expensive...


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> U R Superman.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Influenza (flu) virus drops me to my knees for 5days then sinusitis always for another 10days of Amoxicillin. Thankfully it only happens once every 3years.
> 
> Trying to get cozy with a new build aesthetic, its not that easy. Not sure if I like it yet.
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4974_zpsk7e9cfst.jpg.html


Nice case







I have the same one but with BeQuiet Fans. I'm in the process of upgrading from Air to Water.


----------



## BrjSan

Hey guys,

Can i replace the EK *Thermal PAD D (0.5mm)* with the *Thermal PAD G (0.5mm)* for my GPU memory IC.

peace


----------



## Kutalion

Only difference is the size of the pad, thickness is the same. So yeah.


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Only difference is the size of the pad, thickness is the same. So yeah.


Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> One thing the video did do, was to reaffirm why I have such a big wad of cables in the back of my case...
> 
> It's shameful...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, look at all the uneven wires of the Corsair Custom braided cables...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't feel bad Mike, I've had that spaghetti mess as long as I've been building.
> 
> But this is the year 2016, Down With Cable Wad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to pick up some of this awesome world class MDPC-X sleeving from CaseLabs, and sleeve the stock Seasonic Snow Silent cables to white instead of paying for a white kit that's way too long.
> 
> Probably only the 24-pin, the 8-pin and the KingPin 8+8+6 video cables at first.
> 
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/mdpc-x-sleeve/
> 
> Oh my, CaseLabs also has the MDPC-X heat shrink in white now also, might as well add that to the cart.
> 
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/heatshrink-3-4-1-sata-1ft-white/
> 
> Already picked up the PPCS crimping tool, was only going to do two dc sanyo fans and Aquaero cables but might as well do the PSU also.
Click to expand...

Fareeaaking AWESOMESAUCE iBro! Thank you for turning me onto CLabs for MDPC! Now I can redo my cables with confidence. I was having the worst luck getting it direct due to the TZ issues.























~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Antibiotics, I'm guessing akira acquired a secondary chronic sinusitis after a primary bout with the common flu.
> 
> Get Well Soon Brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another shopping excursion to PPCS, brought home some goodies.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4954_zpsmhivmwxo.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4950_zps2qef0ju0.jpg.html


Yep, everything started with a flu which did go by itself in a matter of days but it left some nasty side issues and some of them had to be treated with antobiotics.


----------



## djchup

Finished my new build last week. Only the blocks are EK but I'm in the club nonetheless.




http://imgur.com/CMt1e


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> This is still the EK club right ??
> I get confused with all iBruce's random shots of his build and parts inventory.
> The posts that include EK parts at times seem a token effort to include EK...
> so I have to check occasionally













TCO


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> Finished my new build last week. Only the blocks are EK but I'm in the club nonetheless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/CMt1e


I like it a lot. Very clean. Mine is 100% EK (with the exception of all the Noctua fans) and is turning into a rat's nest. That is in part due to the design of the case, as well as my laziness. (EK Supremacy EVO Plexi top not pictured.)


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


ROFL......


----------



## andrej124

Hi guys!

After a very long time, we have finally launched our new website!









I invite you all to visit:

*www.ekwb.com*

Be aware that there is a secret discount code hidden somewhere on the site









With this new website we have also launched our new official blog and we invite you to subscribe. Let us know what you think about the redesign and give us some feedback.

This is only a first stage of the redesign, more content is coming soon!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> After a very long time, we have finally launched our new website!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I invite you all to visit:
> 
> *www.ekwb.com*
> 
> Be aware that there is a secret discount code hidden somewhere on the site
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With this new website we have also launched our new official blog and we invite you to subscribe. Let us know what you think about the redesign and give us some feedback.
> 
> This is only a first stage of the redesign, more content is coming soon!


Visited and have to say that I really love the new site. Much easier to navigate and loads much faster on my smartphone than the old site.









Had a thought about Predator however and although you may not be able to do this due to mass production, how about instead of Intel only design offerings, you leave it to the consumer to choose Intel/AMD blocks. This way the bulk parts can be cobbled together at the line and fill prior to shipment. I think it would streamline the production process to some degree. Maybe.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86




----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> After a very long time, we have finally launched our new website!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I invite you all to visit:
> 
> *www.ekwb.com*
> 
> Be aware that there is a secret discount code hidden somewhere on the site
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With this new website we have also launched our new official blog and we invite you to subscribe. Let us know what you think about the redesign and give us some feedback.
> 
> This is only a first stage of the redesign, more content is coming soon!


Whats the code? I neeeeed . ..


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Whats the code? I neeeeed . ..


Better start searching then.


----------



## SteezyTN

Just ordered my first EK D5 top









Apparently my loop is suffering bad from not enough flow. I ordered a Koolance FM18D to check it, and since shipping was already high, I went ahead and ordered the top since I have a D5 Vario on hand. My loop with my two titan X's gets up to 38c on some occasions, meaning a delta of 15c+. I also ordered some Kryonaut and this time I will be applying it with the pea method. I put way too much on when I did the star method with the ectotherm.

I cant wait to try out the Revo top. I would've went with EK pump/res combos for whats in my case now, but I really wanted to stay away from JayZ SMA8 build. I see other builds of SMA8's with EK parts, and its only the same response, "that looks like JayZ's PC"


----------



## funfordcobra

it is odd that at Lv5 I cant hear my D5 pump at all? I can feel it vibrating, but I've never heard it buzz like most say theirs does.


----------



## khemist

Couldn't stay off water for long, new block and backplate for new 980ti.


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Couldn't stay off water for long, new block and backplate for new 980ti.


Looks good, give us some more picture, very interrested in your setup, combinging the predator with the heatkiller


----------



## khemist

Once i get it tidied up a bit and get another 8 pin pcie psu cable made.


----------



## fat4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Whats the code? I neeeeed . ..


Can tell that it contains the company name and a year that we are currently in and a world wide web shortcut








(I hope I didnt break any rules by sharing this)


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> it is odd that at Lv5 I cant hear my D5 pump at all? I can feel it vibrating, but I've never heard it buzz like most say theirs does.


I run my dual-D5's, with an EK Dual-D5 top, at 5, and they're very quiet for me as well.
Mind you, my hearing isn't perfect, but still.


----------



## funfordcobra

heh maybe that's it. all the metal concerts as a kid in the front didn't do me any favors.


----------



## BrjSan

common guys where is the team spirit in u guys .....


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> heh maybe that's it. all the metal concerts as a kid in the front didn't do me any favors.


Lol!








What I found odd at first, was that they seemed to hum a bit at 3, not terribly, but settled down completely at 5.
You'd think they would be noisier at 5 than 3.
Idk if the EK pump top has any bearing on that, or the mounting of it, but it's nice and quiet anyhow.


----------



## emsj86

.


----------



## BURGER4life

So the anti-cyclone insert in my EK-DDC X-RES pump/res combo is fitted with clear tape.
Don't plan to use it anyway but is this common practice?











Aside from that:



15% of parts aquired


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> So the anti-cyclone insert in my EK-DDC X-RES pump/res combo is fitted with clear tape.
> Don't plan to use it anyway but is this common practice?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aside from that:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 15% of parts aquired


Sometimes they tend to be a bit loose-fitting, idk maybe they used the tape to keep it in place during shipping.
Stren noted that in an earlier review on an EK X3 Reservoir review:
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2012/11/20/ek-x3-reservoir-preview/
Nice selection of parts.


----------



## Cozmo85

My X3's ek logo insert came packed loose (not preinstalled) and had the the white plexi protection paper all over it.


----------



## funfordcobra

I just ordered the dual D5 and hopefully it will take care of my head pressure problem in my S8. Akira said he had the same HP problem in his S8 build so I think it may just be indicative of these smaller horizontal builds. I would like to have just ordered ONE and added it to my MAIN but my main pump has the res on it and another pump inline would just be too much of an eye sore for me.

Ill have a 4 mo old D5 /140 res combo pump if anyone is interested. I'd let it go for 100 shipped to anywhere in the US. If not, I'll just save it and sell it with my 980tis when pascal titans come out.


----------



## Rahldrac

I take it that its not possible to use to two upper ports as inlet and outlet? Like water going into the left top and going out the top right?
The whole design seems rather flawed to me, since a tube coming straight out will block the cables for power going to the GPU?


----------



## funfordcobra

its fine


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Is it safe to order the predator 360 or are they still leaking ?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Is it safe to order the predator 360 or are they still leaking ?


Some say their fine others, still have problems. It's basically a lottery right now.


----------



## dilster97

Ditched the terminal block and just went for a bit of hardline between the 980s. Those pre-cut tubes are great EK









Looks fantastic i think. Coolant looks very pretty







terrible webcam pic (coolant is much prettier irl)


----------



## tysonischarles

Sign me up


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Spending my saturday looking for the code, fun for the whole family


----------



## andrej124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Spending my saturday looking for the code, fun for the whole family


Did you find it?


----------



## fat4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> Did you find it?


I gave them a good hint







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat4l*
> 
> Can tell that it contains the company name and a year that we are currently in and a world wide web shortcut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I hope I didnt break any rules by sharing this)


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tysonischarles*
> 
> Sign me up


Which case is this? I like what you've done here in such a small amount of space.


----------



## tysonischarles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Which case is this? I like what you've done here in such a small amount of space.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1580191/project-matx-artisan-page-cases-shipping#post_24597594

Jeff's little work of art







Lovely case to build in!


----------



## RpeeKooz

Hardware
i5 6600k
evga Ftw
2x msi 970
16 gb g skill ram
120gb m2 drive 120 gb ssd and 2 tb hdd
1000w fsp power supply

Watercooling
ek supremacy cpu block
ek monarch ram blocks
bitspower v2 970 gpu blocks
two 480 rads and a 240 rad
10 cooler master 120mm jetflo fans (white led)
1 corsair 140mm fan (white led)
2x ek 250 x3 res
4 x ek pastel white
3 x mayhems non stain blue dye
mayhems blitz
aqua computer aquaero 6xt
aqua computer flow meter
primochill arcylic tube(petg is ****)
primochill ghost fittings(black)
bitspower and ek 90 degree rotary fittings and extenders
bitspower valve x2
and various other fittings...
just need to tidy up the cables and im finished
here is the finished product


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tysonischarles*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1580191/project-matx-artisan-page-cases-shipping#post_24597594
> 
> Jeff's little work of art
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lovely case to build in!


Thanks, I just found an interview with him after I posted my question and saw "Project mATX" on your rig.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> Hardware
> i5 6600k
> evga Ftw
> 2x msi 970
> 16 gb g skill ram
> 120gb m2 drive 120 gb ssd and 2 tb hdd
> 1000w fsp power supply
> 
> Watercooling
> ek supremacy cpu block
> ek monarch ram blocks
> bitspower v2 970 gpu blocks
> two 480 rads and a 240 rad
> 10 cooler master 120mm jetflo fans (white led)
> 1 corsair 140mm fan (white led)
> 2x ek 250 x3 res
> 4 x ek pastel white
> 3 x mayhems non stain blue dye
> mayhems blitz
> aqua computer aquaero 6xt
> aqua computer flow meter
> primochill arcylic tube(petg is ****)
> primochill ghost fittings(black)
> bitspower and ek 90 degree rotary fittings and extenders
> bitspower valve x2
> and various other fittings...
> just need to tidy up the cables and im finished
> here is the finished product


That looks slick. Definitely like it. Nice job.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> Hardware
> i5 6600k
> evga Ftw
> 2x msi 970
> 16 gb g skill ram
> 120gb m2 drive 120 gb ssd and 2 tb hdd
> 1000w fsp power supply
> 
> Watercooling
> ek supremacy cpu block
> ek monarch ram blocks
> bitspower v2 970 gpu blocks
> two 480 rads and a 240 rad
> 10 cooler master 120mm jetflo fans (white led)
> 1 corsair 140mm fan (white led)
> 2x ek 250 x3 res
> 4 x ek pastel white
> 3 x mayhems non stain blue dye
> mayhems blitz
> aqua computer aquaero 6xt
> aqua computer flow meter
> primochill arcylic tube(petg is ****)
> primochill ghost fittings(black)
> bitspower and ek 90 degree rotary fittings and extenders
> bitspower valve x2
> and various other fittings...
> just need to tidy up the cables and im finished
> here is the finished product


Nicely done.

Painted the d5 pump cover and color filled the lettering, think it turned out pretty well.


----------



## PChr

Greetings,

After reading a ton of threads in this forum, and getting a lot of useful information. I have finally build my first custom loop.

*Hardware:*
Intel i7-5930K
2 x EVGA GTX 980 Ti
Asus X99 Sabertooth Motherboard
Intel 750 NVMe SSD
Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Chassis

*Watercooling:*
1x EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel CPU Block
2x EK-FC Titan X - Acetal 2 GPU Block
1x EK-RES X3 150 Reservoir
1x EK-XTOP Revo D5 Plexi - Pump
1x EK-CoolStream SE 240 Radiator (Top)
1x EK-CoolStream SE 360 Radiator (Front)
5x EK-Vardar F4-120ER Radiator Fans
1x Noctua NF-A14 Rear fan
1x aquaero 6 PRO Fan Controller
1x farbwerk Lighting Controller





I'll probably paint the frame of the SLI bridge black. It looks a bit too bright.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Just beautiful, well done


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Im sitting here trying to figure out if buying this:


Is worth it over predator 360 the price difference is just 75€ and with this I could expand whatever I wanted to in the future, plus I like the idea that it`s custom.


----------



## tysonischarles

Sorta feel like I shoulda gone nvidia for one of those fancy SLI bridges


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Im sitting here trying to figure out if buying this:
> 
> 
> Is worth it over predator 360 the price difference is just 75€ and with this I could expand whatever I wanted to in the future, plus I like the idea that it`s custom.


I would say yes, I returned my Predator after both R 1.0 and R 1.1 leaked and went Custom. I went a little overboard with my custom loop.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I'm just trying to keep the cost down for now, thanks.
Also does the res/pump combo I chose have any downsides compared to standalone d5 with a top and x3 res?


----------



## BrjSan

Noob question:

does the thread length make a difference (cause any leak or issues)??

Wana get the EK splitter , ... this guy, it says G 1/4" with 7.0 mm thread size
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-t-splitter-3f-g1-4-nickel

and most if not all M-M extenders, this guy, says G 1/4" with 4.0 mm thread size
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-extender-20mm-m-m-g1-4-nickel

peace


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I'm just trying to keep the cost down for now, thanks.
> Also does the res/pump combo I chose have any downsides compared to standalone d5 with a top and x3 res?


I can't speak about that pump, since I never used it. Most EK pumps are similar from what I recall. I personally have only used MCP655.


----------



## Koplari

Got my new rig finally powered up, but there is issue with the D5 PWM pump.

I got XE360 in front with GT AP15 fans, fans are connected through Phanteks PWM hub to CPU_FAN header. When i connect D5 to CPU_OPT, it doesn´t spin up, rpm is 0. Using Fan Expert 3 slider and raising GT´s rpm, I get D5 to start revving.

Connecting D5 to any CHA_FAN header just drives it on full power, can´t do nothing from Fan Expert.
I´m running it now with PWM lead off, it runs at 40% that way.

Any solutions? My setup:

Case: Phanteks Evolv ATX
CPU: i7 6700K
Board: Asus Maximus VIII Gene
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z DDR4-3200 16Gb
GPU: Asus GeForce GTX 970 STRIX OC Edition
SSD: 2 X 256GB Samsung 850 PRO

W/C
Radiator: EK XE 360 (with 3 x EK Vardar F4-120ER fan)
Block: EK M8G monoblock
Pump: EK D5 Revo PWM
Reservoir: Phobya Balancer 250 (I painted it, so it didn´t have to be EK)
Fittings: EK 13/10 ACF + CSQ, black + elox black


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koplari*
> 
> Got my new rig finally powered up, but there is issue with the D5 PWM pump.
> 
> I got XE360 in front with GT AP15 fans, fans are connected through Phanteks PWM hub to CPU_FAN header. When i connect D5 to CPU_OPT, it doesn´t spin up, rpm is 0. Using Fan Expert 3 slider and raising GT´s rpm, I get D5 to start revving.
> 
> Connecting D5 to any CHA_FAN header just drives it on full power, can´t do nothing from Fan Expert.
> 
> Any solutions? My setup:
> 
> Case: Phanteks Evolv ATX
> CPU: i7 6700K
> Board: Asus Maximus VIII Gene
> RAM: G.Skill Trident Z DDR4-3200 16Gb
> GPU: Asus GeForce GTX 970 STRIX OC Edition
> SSD: 2 X 256GB Samsung 850 PRO
> 
> W/C
> Radiator: EK XE 360 (with 3 x EK Vardar F4-120ER fan)
> Block: EK M8G monoblock
> Pump: EK D5 Revo PWM
> Reservoir: Phobya Balancer 250 (I painted it, so it didn´t have to be EK)
> Fittings: EK 13/10 ACF + CSQ, black + elox black


On most Mobo's the primary CPU_FAN header is the only one which is really PWM.....
so try connecting the pump to this fan header to see if you get full control.

The GT AP-15's are not PWM fans, so they don't need to be connected through what is likely to be the only fan header which PWM.
So try the cable for the splitter coming from the CHA_FAN header and see how that works out.

Good Luck









Got some pics to share with us


----------



## Koplari

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> On most Mobo's the primary CPU_FAN header is the only one which is really PWM.....
> so try connecting the pump to this fan header to see if you get full control.
> 
> The GT AP-15's are not PWM fans, so they don't need to be connected through what is likely to be the only fan header which PWM.
> So try the cable for the splitter coming from the CHA_FAN header and see how that works out.
> 
> Good Luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got some pics to share with us


I connected D5 to CPU_FAN, it runs fine with 826 minimum rpm. Connecting GT´s to CHA_FAN1-4 just runs on 1773 rpm all the time, no control.

Will share some pics when i get better lightning, now just sitting with it in darkest corner of my house.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I'm just trying to keep the cost down for now, thanks.
> Also does the res/pump combo I chose have any downsides compared to standalone d5 with a top and x3 res?


The built in pump is a 6w ddc pump. It is a solid pump. Obviously weaker than the 20w ddc pumps maxed but eks ddc is quite.

Compared to a D5 on setting 5 the litte ek ddc is weaker but most people run D5s on lower more quite settings anyway.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I`m sorry,what I mean was what`s the difference between

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump

and

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-d5-pwm-plexi-incl-pump
+
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-150

I know res has nothing to do with temperatures, but what do I gain going for the second option?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I`m sorry,what I mean was what`s the difference between
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump
> 
> and
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-d5-pwm-plexi-incl-pump
> +
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-150
> 
> I know res has nothing to do with temperatures, but what do I gain going for the second option?


Pumps are identical. That choice comes to down to preference. PWM Laing D5 in both links.

The 2nd choice would have a res base left after you join the pump to res. That part could be used as a multi top but I would suggest buying the actual multi top if it is needed.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tysonischarles*
> 
> Sorta feel like I shoulda gone nvidia for one of those fancy SLI bridges


You could just stick one on with double sided tape


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Noob question:
> 
> does the thread length make a difference (cause any leak or issues)??
> 
> Wana get the EK splitter , ... this guy, it says G 1/4" with 7.0 mm thread size
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-t-splitter-3f-g1-4-nickel
> 
> and most if not all M-M extenders, this guy, says G 1/4" with 4.0 mm thread size
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-extender-20mm-m-m-g1-4-nickel
> 
> peace


In this instance you are fine.

The important part is that the 4mm male thread screws all the way down so the o-ring seats on the splitter face to seal. If the male thread were 7mm and the female thread 4mm, you could not screw the male thread in far enough to seat the o-ring, and you would have leakage.


----------



## tysonischarles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> You could just stick one on with double sided tape


I would crossfire but the fury X is pretty disappointing, so I'll be going nvidia with pascal next


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tysonischarles*
> 
> I would crossfire but the fury X is pretty disappointing, so I'll be going nvidia with pascal next


How so? Last time I checked it was pretty much on par with the 980Ti.

Overclocking headroom is pretty limited, but it still seems pretty solid card to me.


----------



## tysonischarles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> How so? Last time I checked it was pretty much on par with the 980Ti.
> 
> Overclocking headroom is pretty limited, but it still seems pretty solid card to me.


Don't quote me on this as I don't have the proof in front of me, but I'm pretty sure my over clocked firestrike extreme results where around 7k. A similar system with a 980ti was up in the 9000's. I'll double check when I'm home to be sure. That and the lack of headroom on the overclocking. Mine idles at 24 degrees and has only reached 40 degrees max yet I can't do more with it


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tysonischarles*
> 
> Don't quote me on this as I don't have the proof in front of me, but I'm pretty sure my over clocked firestrike extreme results where around 7k. A similar system with a 980ti was up in the 9000's. I'll double check when I'm home to be sure. That and the lack of headroom on the overclocking. Mine idles at 24 degrees and has only reached 40 degrees max yet I can't do more with it


That seems very low, the Firestrike Extreme GPU scores I've seen are more in the range of mid 8000's and at stock the 980ti and fury X pretty much score identical GPU scores (7600ish).


----------



## tysonischarles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> That seems very low, the Firestrike Extreme GPU scores I've seen are more in the range of mid 8000's and at stock the 980ti and fury X pretty much score identical GPU scores (7600ish).




That's with my i5 @4.4Ghz and Fury X @ 1170/545

That's as high as I could push it whilst keeping stable

And similar systems:


----------



## WhiteWulfe

To add into the comparison, here's a bench-stable (but nowhere near fully tweaked) GTX 980 running on an air cooler that's semi-clogged with a year's worth of dust.....

http://hwbot.org/submission/3121289_

Overall score of 7278, with the GPU score itself being 7868.


----------



## tysonischarles

I'll be back to nvidia next gen ?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tysonischarles*
> 
> I'll be back to nvidia next gen ?


These kinds of statements make no sense to me. How do you pre-determine what card you are going to purchase before they're even out? Nvidia? AMD? Doesn't matter. Look at the product from both companies when available and decide which one better suits your needs.


----------



## tysonischarles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> These kinds of statements make no sense to me. How do you pre-determine what card you are going to purchase before they're even out? Nvidia? AMD? Doesn't matter. Look at the product from both companies when available and decide which one better suits your needs.


Because in my limited and naive experience of graphics card providers, Nvidia has always had the upper hand. Take that with a grain of salt though, I'm extremely uneducated.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> These kinds of statements make no sense to me. How do you pre-determine what card you are going to purchase before they're even out? Nvidia? AMD? Doesn't matter. Look at the product from both companies when available and decide which one better suits your needs.


I have stopped using AMD GPU's since the 7970 Xfire setup I tried for about a month. Then got 680's. Going all the way back to 3Dfx days, ATI/AMD (depending on time frame obviously) has been more trouble then they have been worth for me. Used to go back and forth. When it was normal for one side to be strong one gen then flip the next. But, every time I went ATI/AMD I had more issues. The over all user experiance has never been as good with them as with Nvidia. I did start with 3Dfx cards though. It has not always been perfect. But I have a more painless experience on the team green side. Now in my 30's with a kid and a wife, I like my tinker time spent on doing fun stuff. Not trying to just make things work. These issues are compounded after going triple screens and exclusively with multi GPU setups and the plan to go variable refresh rate in the next year. On the team red side Xfire, eyefinity, and freesync can not be used together. Last I looked eyfinity flat wont work with freesync. As far as I know that has not changed. Ont the flip side, gsync, SLI, and surround all work together just fine. So, for me and my setup of choice, the decision is made for me.

But that is me. As I get older, I care less and less about the underdog fights and all that BS. I just want things to work as they should unless I break it messing around. So, I take the greater support for SLI over xfire. I take the fact that one company can have all it's tech work together. I am less concerned about the costs involved. My budget is my budget. Same for every one else. And a few FPS differences here and there do not matter to me. We are not talking double the performance one way or the other. They are generally pretty close most of the time. So, it's all about the overall experience.

That being said, IF AMD get there act together for a good couple generations, I might try them again. But I have been burned way to many times over the years. I am far more open to and AMD CPU though. If ZEN kicks some serious butt and can at least go toe to toe with Intel, I will jump on it for something new. But, we have to wait on that one.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koplari*
> 
> I connected D5 to CPU_FAN, it runs fine with 826 minimum rpm. Connecting GT´s to CHA_FAN1-4 just runs on 1773 rpm all the time, no control.
> 
> Also the CPU_FAN can be changed in bios between DC and PWM mode on most motherboards.
> Just check it's actually set to PWM.
> My ASUS defaults to PWM and my EVGA to DC. Both X99 boards though.
> I use a corsair commander mini and get great control over fans, pumps and lighting. In spite of the rubbish software I wouldn't do without it now.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> I have stopped using AMD GPU's since the 7970 Xfire setup I tried for about a month. Then got 680's.
> 
> I use AMD because they go heaps better than nvidia for CAD drawing.
> So I guess if your stuff goes better with nvidia buy it, if it's better with amd then buy them...


----------



## tysonischarles

Let's not start the great debate here on green vs red, I did buy a Fury X after all. Nvidia has always been a smooth experience for me, whereas my AMD experience has been very similar to Prophets, has been less desirable. I owned the original titan, then a 770, 780, 780 ti, 970 and now Fury X. Has it worked? Yes, In it's vanilla form it's great. But the lack of OC potential is disappointing. Having said that I knew that well before I bought the card and still got caught up in the Hype-Train, So it's my own fault really


----------



## kapnobatai

Hi guys, I need your advise, please, trying to decide my first build, EK support proposed a configuration, very nice of them, but it's a bit over my budget so I would like to not overclock anything and add a 2nd radiator later on.

- CPU I7-5820K -> EK-Supremacy EVO X99 - Nickel
- optional GPU MSI GTX970 Gaming 4g -> EK-FC970 GTX TFX - Nickel + EK-FC970 GTX TFX Backplate - Black
- Adaptec 71605 RAID Controller - this is running very hot usually, up to 100 °C is normal, usually it stays around 80°C, I ll replace its passive heatsink with a Alphacool HF 14 Smart Motion Universal Chipset / GPU Block - Nickel Edition, one of the few which might fit the board s only 2 mounting holes
- Rad: EK-CoolStream PE 360 with 3x 120mm push only fans - I was advised to get a 2n rad (I got space for a 280 top outtake but I ll hold this until later, as said, no OC on neither of the components until then)
- Pump: EK-XTOP DDC 3.2 PWM Elite - Plexi (incl. pump)
- Reservoir: EK-DBAY D5 MX - Acetal + pump bracket EK-UNI Holder DDC Spider (120mm bottom intake FAN )
- Tubing: EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm
- Fittings: 14x EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm - Nickel

Even so, my build might get too expensive for now, I might leave the GPU block for later, but due to the RAID controller and to the 28 lanes only CPU, I ll have to use the GPU only @x8 (the GTX970 it s too thick, I don t have the space for mounting the 71605 RAID underneath, only if I ll get water cooling for the GPU). I m only a casual gamer, use this rig for video editing, I used it like this since I bought it with no major drawbacks

My intention is to get decent temps in idle with only 50-60% Fan speed (fans are Alpenfoehn PWM, 3x120mm intake front, 1x120mm intake bottom, 1 x120mm exhaust back, 2x140mm exhaust top), NO OC.

1. If I ll include the GPU block, will that be possible with only the 360 RAD?

2. Will the hot running RAID controller influence so hard the general water temperature?

3. Which would a recommended block order (Corsair Vengeance C70 Case)?

Any advice would greatly appreciated, I read many threads, but still got doubts.

If I should open another thread elsewhere, also please advise.

Many thanks for your patience reading this.


----------



## Koplari

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Koplari*
> 
> I connected D5 to CPU_FAN, it runs fine with 826 minimum rpm. Connecting GT´s to CHA_FAN1-4 just runs on 1773 rpm all the time, no control.
> 
> Also the CPU_FAN can be changed in bios between DC and PWM mode on most motherboards.
> Just check it's actually set to PWM.
> My ASUS defaults to PWM and my EVGA to DC. Both X99 boards though.
> I use a corsair commander mini and get great control over fans, pumps and lighting. In spite of the rubbish software I wouldn't do without it now.
> 
> 
> 
> I checked that several times, so that's not the cause.
> 
> I took EK M8G off and made a wire to water pump connector, which sits under the monoblock. Now I can cotrol water pump and GT's are staying at low rom whrn connected to CPU_FAN.
> 
> Temps are 29C @ idle, I runned Realbench 15 min and highest core went to 74C with 12C difference to next @ 62C.
Click to expand...


----------



## JCArch

Hi guys! I've had a lot of fun looking at the great builds in this thread, as they've helped hold me over until I complete mine. I'm in the process of installing an EK loop in my Ncase M1 and was planning on mounting a 240mm rad to the side bracket. I'll be using two of the Silverstone FN123 fans to do the cooling and was curious if mounting an additional fan to the bottom of the case without a radiator as an intake fan would help the system, or if it wouldn't really make a difference?


----------



## funfordcobra

What thermal does ek send out with their stuff?


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> What thermal does ek send out with their stuff?


EK - Ectotherm i think.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> EK - Ectotherm i think.


With GPU block, that.
With Supremacy EVO it is Gelid GC Extreme (or used to be when I got mine).


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> With GPU block, that.
> With Supremacy EVO it is Gelid GC Extreme (or used to be when I got mine).


I got the Ectotherm with my EVO X99 just a few days ago


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> I got the Ectotherm with my EVO X99 just a few days ago


Indeed, it says Ecostuff on the EVO x99 EK shop page.
On the regular EVO it says "TIM / thermal grease: Gelid GC-Extreme (EKWB 1.5g)". I didn't used it since I had my Kryonaut tho. I guess you pay for the additional accessories *and* the TIM on the regular one then.


----------



## funfordcobra

How is the ecto vs gelid? I was thinking of picking up a half oz of Gelid. I'm pretty sure what I have isn't gelid. My loop isn't a year old yet.


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> I got the Ectotherm with my EVO X99 just a few days ago


Thats weird i got gelid with the x99 evo about a month ago. Maybe they ran out because they usually send the ectotherm with the gpu block and gelid with the cpu block.
Anyway it's probably only 2-3°c difference if that, between the two paste's.


----------



## Kimir

You have a graph here, on EK website:
https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-introduces-ectotherm-thermal-compound-in-5g-packaging/

And a roundup here:
http://overclocking.guide/thermal-paste-roundup-2015-47-products-tested-with-air-cooling-and-liquid-nitrogen-ln2/6/
It's the indigo tho, not ecto.


----------



## snef

and made some little special things on EK Waterblock


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> and made some little special things on EK Waterblock
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That Radiator dock in the bottom of that HexGear case is the tops. Love it snef!









~Ceadder


----------



## orvils

Does anyone know what size the thread is on EK Internal Tube? Is it g1/4?
For one of these - https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm
I can see it is external thread but nowhere is says what size it is.


----------



## nzphil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orvils*
> 
> Does anyone know what size the thread is on EK Internal Tube? Is it g1/4?
> For one of these - https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm
> I can see it is external thread but nowhere is says what size it is.


I'm pretty sure it is g1/4 because all the xres use g1/4 threads and it says its compatible with them.


----------



## rsvette12

Awesome start SNEF


----------



## funfordcobra

whats up with the EK 90s? Ive had 3 black ones in a row that have slack in the rotary joint. enough to bend. one actually came completely apart. I looked for some replacements from microcenter and they took them off the shelves. I'm forced to use some bitspower >.>


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> whats up with the EK 90s? Ive had 3 black ones in a row that have slack in the rotary joint. enough to bend. one actually came completely apart. I looked for some replacements from microcenter and they took them off the shelves. I'm forced to use some bitspower >.>


I am terrified to move any EK 90s or 45s that I have as they tend to leak when they move at all. Many leaked right away, I have a little pile of not fit for use EK fittings. The vendor I bought them from has since failed so it is another casualty of fcpu. I would love to trade them out to EK for ones that don't leak but whatever.


----------



## funfordcobra

ugg... well darn. I don't have any trouble with the 45s or the BIG 90s (45x2) but the 90s are horrible! I wonder if mocrocenter will let me return them without packaging. They are less than a month old I believe.

The freaking bits power ones are 14 USD! Guess its worth it if the don't leak. This rad has unusual pressure on the tubes because I went too thick on my rad and I'm using a caselabs with that side mount bottom rad panel. There's no room back there with the fat rads.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> ugg... well darn. I don't have any trouble with the 45s or the BIG 90s (45x2) but the 90s are horrible! I wonder if mocrocenter will let me return them without packaging. They are less than a month old I believe.
> 
> The freaking bits power ones are 14 USD! Guess its worth it if the don't leak. This rad has unusual pressure on the tubes because I went too thick on my rad and I'm using a caselabs with that side mount bottom rad panel. There's no room back there with the fat rads.


If you can't get EK and have to go BP your better off getting BarroW and going seahorseless.


----------



## DerComissar

When I was doing the loop for my TJ07, I had to replace all of my AlphaCool 90's, fortunately I only bought 4 of them, same issue, loose and leaking.
The Bitspower fittings I replaced them with, set me back a hundred bucks with tax and shipping, so it was a costly experience.

The Barrow fittings, if they're good, certainly sound like a cheaper alternative.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzphil*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *orvils*
> 
> Does anyone know what size the thread is on EK Internal Tube? Is it g1/4?
> For one of these - https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm
> I can see it is external thread but nowhere is says what size it is.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure it is g1/4 because all the xres use g1/4 threads and it says its compatible with them.
Click to expand...

G1/4 is common standard across the board. Very few manufacturers still use the G3/8 system. They are out there but G1/4 standard has been around for a few years now and it's universally accepted.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> The Barrow fittings, if they're good, certainly sound like a cheaper alternative.


What I've heard about them has been good, and they used to and might still be made by the same manufacturer as Bitspower's fittings.

@wermad is doing a build using a fair amount of them, maybe he can confirm if this is still the case.


----------



## Touge180SX

I'm using all Barrow matte black compression fitting in my new build and love them! They work and look perfect. I am using EK CSQ rotaries with zero leaking issues.


----------



## funfordcobra

Wll I didn't want to order. Mcrocenter has ek or bitspower lol. Luckily these two 90s are hidden..


----------



## derickwm

Hi guys, sorry to hear about the leaking fittings. If you are the original purchaser please get in touch with your place of purchase for a replacement. We have sourced a new supplier and the batch coming later this month will be guaranteed leak free.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orvils*
> 
> Does anyone know what size the thread is on EK Internal Tube? Is it g1/4?
> For one of these - https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm
> I can see it is external thread but nowhere is says what size it is.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzphil*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it is g1/4 because all the xres use g1/4 threads and it says its compatible with them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> G1/4 is common standard across the board. Very few manufacturers still use the G3/8 system. They are out there but G1/4 standard has been around for a few years now and it's universally accepted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The external thread on the tube is not g1/4 it's a bit larger. I'm not sure what it is exactly. It may be a metric size. I'll have a look at it when I get home or you should contact EK support.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hi guys, sorry to hear about the leaking fittings. If you are the original purchaser please get in touch with your place of purchase for a replacement. We have sourced a new supplier and the batch coming later this month will be guaranteed leak free.


good to hear man!


----------



## akira749

EK releases MSI RADEON R9 390X GAMING 8G Full-Cover water block


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases MSI RADEON R9 390X GAMING 8G Full-Cover water block


Looks so good! I swear to Gaben I'll get an EK (not an alphacool) GPU block for my next upgrade!

EDIT: While I'm here can I join?



EK Supermacy EVO acetal (the copper one I think, not that you can tell the difference once installed)
EK EK-XRES 100 DDC MX 3.2 PWM, with inlet top
EK 13/10mm nickel fittings
Various Vardars
Primochill black LRT tubing
Alphacool 290x block
Black Ice Nemesis GTS240
Black Ice Nemesis GTX240
And a few AC rotaries

I'll upload some nicer photos when I go home at the weekend


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hi guys, sorry to hear about the leaking fittings. If you are the original purchaser please get in touch with your place of purchase for a replacement. We have sourced a new supplier and the batch coming later this month will be guaranteed leak free.


Was that supplier responsible for all the fittings?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hi guys, sorry to hear about the leaking fittings. If you are the original purchaser please get in touch with your place of purchase for a replacement. We have sourced a new supplier and the batch coming later this month will be guaranteed leak free.
> 
> 
> 
> Was that supplier responsible for all the fittings?
Click to expand...

No


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> No


What was the problem with these fittings, design or materials or just the odd bad fitment in the manufacturing process.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> No
> 
> 
> 
> What was the problem with these fittings, design or materials or just the odd bad fitment in the manufacturing process.
Click to expand...

Just a rare oddity in the manufacturing process unfortunately. Yes, our rotary fittings are generally a bit "looser" than some others out there, but I personally, haven't found that this necessarily equates to leaking. To me it makes my life easier as the rotary is a lot more functional than a super stiff fitting, but I can see why some would be concerned.


----------



## Touge180SX

My CSQ fittings work perfect!


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just a rare oddity in the manufacturing process unfortunately. Yes, our rotary fittings are generally a bit "looser" than some others out there, but I personally, haven't found that this necessarily equates to leaking. To me it makes my life easier as the rotary is a lot more functional than a super stiff fitting, but I can see why some would be concerned.


Ok thats good as im going to use EK fittings for my Kinetic Energy build, but it would be nice to have the rotary a little bit stiffer as it does help.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> No
> 
> 
> 
> What was the problem with these fittings, design or materials or just the odd bad fitment in the manufacturing process.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just a rare oddity in the manufacturing process unfortunately. Yes, our rotary fittings are generally a bit "looser" than some others out there, but I personally, haven't found that this necessarily equates to leaking. To me it makes my life easier as the rotary is a lot more functional than a super stiff fitting, but I can see why some would be concerned.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I've seen rotaries that I thought to myself "why even make and offer a rotary, if you cannot twist them to the direction they need to go while they are installed on a block/accessory?", cause they were that stiff. If you can't twist the rotary without twisting the mounting thread further in or backing them out of the thread, then it becomes more labor intensive setting them, installing them, removing them and fine tuning the angle and reinstalling them. KL was bad for that so I got rid of them and ET rotaries were hit or miss in my experience.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Opened up the block on my TX, and I'm having the hardest time trying to get the oring to stay in place (the huge ring between the plates)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Opened up the block on my TX, and I'm having the hardest time trying to get the oring to stay in place (the huge ring between the plates)


Silicon grease would solve that my brotha.









~Ceadder


----------



## funfordcobra

I have a few too that I got directly from EK that are great. The ones from microcenter were very bad. They could have been molested by potential buyers although. I saw bitspower seals their fittings in their bags with heat over the plastic. Maybe EK should look into this too for storefront fitting sales.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Silicon grease would solve that my brotha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Is there any other type of "chemical" that I can use that's safe to use with the silicone and nickel?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I have a few too that I got directly from EK that are great. The ones from microcenter were very bad. They could have been molested by potential buyers although. I saw bitspower seals their fittings in their bags with heat over the plastic. Maybe EK should look into this too for storefront fitting sales.


Really? Bad as in scratched, beat up, yanked on etc?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Opened up the block on my TX, and I'm having the hardest time trying to get the oring to stay in place (the huge ring between the plates)


Use plugs!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Use plugs!


Not the oring on the terminal. The oring actually between the acetal and nickel.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Not the oring on the terminal. The oring actually between the acetal and nickel.


Same thing. Small weights spread over the length of the O-ring will help, as will lube.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Same thing. Small weights spread over the length of the O-ring will help, as will lube.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Use plugs!


lol I thought you were just saying that as a joke haha. Well now I just feel stupid









Here's what I got now. I hope it works. I really don't feel like driving to the hardware store now lol



So stupid question: how can I leak test it out of the loop? Just add some tubing and water?


----------



## Benjiw

I was thinking of watercooling my ram, because why not... and I see there is an x2 and an x4 version, when I look at the x2 it appears that it will only fit on 2 ram sticks right next to each other rather than the usual dual channel config, am I mistaken will it not fit over 3 dimm slots for that sort of config?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I was thinking of watercooling my ram, because why not... and I see there is an x2 and an x4 version, when I look at the x2 it appears that it will only fit on 2 ram sticks right next to each other rather than the usual dual channel config, am I mistaken will it not fit over 3 dimm slots for that sort of config?


I believe the X2 is more intended for motherboards that only have 2 ram slots (like most ITX boards), and the X4 for a 4 slot board.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I have a few too that I got directly from EK that are great. The ones from microcenter were very bad. They could have been molested by potential buyers although. I saw bitspower seals their fittings in their bags with heat over the plastic. Maybe EK should look into this too for storefront fitting sales.
> 
> 
> 
> Really? Bad as in scratched, beat up, yanked on etc?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Opened up the block on my TX, and I'm having the hardest time trying to get the oring to stay in place (the huge ring between the plates)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Use plugs!
Click to expand...

Haha, I just figured out what you were saying. My first thought was you were suggesting EK tap the back of the bridges for plugs instead of their current configuration. Yeahup the weight of a single plug would go a long way to keeping the oring in place.







lol

~Ceadder








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I was thinking of watercooling my ram, because why not... and I see there is an x2 and an x4 version, when I look at the x2 it appears that it will only fit on 2 ram sticks right next to each other rather than the usual dual channel config, am I mistaken will it not fit over 3 dimm slots for that sort of config?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I was thinking of watercooling my ram, because why not... and I see there is an x2 and an x4 version, when I look at the x2 it appears that it will only fit on 2 ram sticks right next to each other rather than the usual dual channel config, am I mistaken will it not fit over 3 dimm slots for that sort of config?
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the X2 is more intended for motherboards that only have 2 ram slots (like most ITX boards), and the X4 for a 4 slot board.
Click to expand...

Not just ITX. There are Intel boards with 4 slots. 2 on one side and two on the other side of the CPU.

To answer the rhetorical question posed, yes an x2 block only works on RAM that is side by side. Sadly nobody makes an x3.







Which is what I need to mount to my RAM for aesthetic purposes. Yeah I can do an x4 but that's a lot of wasted cooling surface and overhang.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Same thing. Small weights spread over the length of the O-ring will help, as will lube.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Use plugs!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> lol I thought you were just saying that as a joke haha. Well now I just feel stupid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I got now. I hope it works. I really don't feel like driving to the hardware store now lol
> 
> 
> 
> So stupid question: how can I leak test it out of the loop? Just add some tubing and water?
Click to expand...

Glad it helped. Sorry if it was initially unclear, only photo I could find to illustrate sort of what I meant. This is the the same tactic we use at EK HQ for assembling 

Edit*

Of course now I remember where a better photo is... http://www.tomshardware.com/picturestory/697-18-ekwb-factory-tour.html


----------



## Mads1

I just use low tack tape just on edge of o-ring then put the top on and gently remove tape, never failed me.


----------



## SteezyTN

So is this enough thermal paste?



It appears whenever I do the star pattern, I put way too much. I just want to try this and see if it improves my temps


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So is this enough thermal paste?
> 
> 
> 
> It appears whenever I do the star pattern, I put way too much. I just want to try this and see if it improves my temps


Use an old credit card to apply a thin layer across the entire chip.


----------



## Lionheart1980

I thought u had to use rice method for cpu & gpu??


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> I thought u had to use rice method for cpu & gpu??


You don't have to do anything. You can follow that guidance and be pretty safe, though.


----------



## funfordcobra

Having trouble getting my new dual pumps to power on. There is absolutely no pressure. Do I need the pwm p!ugged in? My understanding was that the pumps ran at 60% with no signal. I took it apart and powered it on for a second to see if anything was happening and it was just barley spinning. Maybe 200 rpm same as the adjacent pump.

I'm replacing a d5 that doesn't have a pwm and all it needed was power.


----------



## funfordcobra

I don't see how its possible to get a dual pump and both be defective. I took them apart and they seem to be OK. They just don't spin. They just barley turn.. I've tried 2 psus, pwm, no pwm, and a closed loop by my sink with zero restrictions. Nothing, just the very slow pump spin.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Having trouble getting my new dual pumps to power on. There is absolutely no pressure. Do I need the pwm p!ugged in? My understanding was that the pumps ran at 60% with no signal. I took it apart and powered it on for a second to see if anything was happening and it was just barley spinning. Maybe 200 rpm same as the adjacent pump.
> 
> I'm replacing a d5 that doesn't have a pwm and all it needed was power.


The D5 PWM (XSPC) I recently installed ran at 60% when plugged into the fan header and an external power supply, and at 100% when plugged to the external PSU but not to the fan header. I found out about this from an old post by IT Diva, browsing for solutions to bleed my loop, which was proving impossible at 60%, and thought it strange but decided to try anyway. it turned out to be accurate, and my loop was promptly bled. I didn't keep the URL to Diva's post, but I'm sure you can easily find it with the search function.


----------



## funfordcobra

Well I got dead pumps then.. They don't do anything but buzz. Even in a res to pump to res simple loop.


----------



## tysonischarles

Hey man, my D5 pump from EK was very similar. I plugged it into a molex and it hardly didn't anything for like 15 seconds and then it finally ramped up.

Silly question, do you have your 24 pin atx cable bridged with a bridged connector? Because the molex won't have power unless you bridge the 24 pin.


----------



## funfordcobra

Yea everything is set. Pump replacement is pretty idiot proof lol. I've tried 2 different PSUs, different Molex, PWM, no PWM and nothing. I stuck my old pumps back in and everything is normal and I have these two expensive pumps just sitting here.


----------



## tysonischarles

that really sucks bro :/ wish I could help!


----------



## funfordcobra

It's cool man the, those guys at EK take care of me. I hope they just send me a new one and I send this one back. On a positive note I have been having a flow problem since I switched to caselabs and I found the problem tonight and fixed it. Go figure I don't even need the two pumps now but I still want them in my rig for redundancy.

Bad luck, today my ek pumps don't work and yesterday my new Onkyo receiver was "delivered" to someone else..


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hi guys, sorry to hear about the leaking fittings. If you are the original purchaser please get in touch with your place of purchase for a replacement. We have sourced a new supplier and the batch coming later this month will be guaranteed leak free.


Mark Friga Jr. isn't very helpful in this dept.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> On a positive note I have been having a flow problem since I switched to caselabs and I found the problem tonight and fixed it.


what was the problem and how did you fix it??
im planning on buyng a mercury s8 in a few weeks and i heard of some people having flow problems in this case


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> On a positive note I have been having a flow problem since I switched to caselabs and I found the problem tonight and fixed it.
> 
> 
> 
> what was the problem and how did you fix it??
> im planning on buyng a mercury s8 in a few weeks and i heard of some people having flow problems in this case
Click to expand...

No flow problems with mine, Idk why it would be any different with an S8 than any other case, more an issue with the loop itself, not the S8, imo.

I don't have EK pumps however, they're just oem Laing D5's.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> No flow problems with mine, Idk why it would be any different with an S8 than any other case, more an issue with the loop itself, not the S8, imo.
> 
> I don't have EK pumps however, they're just oem Laing D5's.


i dont know, someone said something about problems with horizontal builds, i only wanted to know if he had the same problem so i could plan around it


----------



## funfordcobra

I believe it was a 90 fitting on my CPU that was too tight.


----------



## seross69

I am going to ask a question I think I know the answer to and should know. Will the CPU block I have been using on a 1150 board work on a new 1151?? I board I think yes??


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I am going to ask a question I think I know the answer to and should know. Will the CPU block I have been using on a 1150 board work on a new 1151?? I board I think yes??


Yup


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I am going to ask a question I think I know the answer to and should know. Will the CPU block I have been using on a 1150 board work on a new 1151?? I board I think yes??


Yes - 1150 + 1151 use exactly the same mount.


----------



## seross69

Thank you and I thought so!!!


----------



## L35k0

Hi,

Recenty I built a new watercooling system with EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM which is connected to CPU_FAN but the problem is that I can't manage rpm and pump is constanty running at 3300 rpm no matter what setting I put in motherboard (ASRock X99E-ITX) standard, silent or custom.

Is this normal or am I missing something?


----------



## funfordcobra

I'm having problems with the new pumps too. Rpm control.

But it sounds like maybe one of your pwm pins isn't making contact with the CPU header. Definitely a pwm problem because its running at 60% and they are supposed to do that with no pwm signal.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L35k0*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Recenty I built a new watercooling system with EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM which is connected to CPU_FAN but the problem is that I can't manage rpm and pump is constanty running at 3300 rpm no matter what setting I put in motherboard (ASRock X99E-ITX) standard, silent or custom.
> 
> Is this normal or am I missing something?


If you put it in "Custom" and adjust you PWM curve to always be at 100% whatever the CPU temp is, you should achieve what you want.


----------



## DtheM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> i dont know, someone said something about problems with horizontal builds, i only wanted to know if he had the same problem so i could plan around it


S8 owner here.. No issues with flow whatsoever... Why would it be different in a horizontal layout vs a vertical layout? In a vertical layout the GPU(s) is/are horizontal and the CPU block vertical vs a horizontal system where the GPU(s) is/are vertical and the CPU block horizontal.. Pumps and res are no different as well...

I got the EK dual DDC pumps but just in case one fails...


----------



## L35k0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> If you put it in "Custom" and adjust you PWM curve to always be at 100% whatever the CPU temp is, you should achieve what you want.


I already tried that and its the same as full performance in bios.


----------



## funfordcobra

That was my problem. Even though my pwm was set to 100% my profile was on silent so I got 10% pwm to pumps.


----------



## funfordcobra

Okay so I have my pumps in and they're working they're both showing 4800 rpm cpu and fan at her side yet when I try to get my operating system I get the fan CPU warning? Does anybody know what's going on?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Okay so I have my pumps in and they're working they're both showing 4800 rpm cpu and fan at her side yet when I try to get my operating system I get the fan CPU warning? Does anybody know what's going on?


You need to go into your bios settings and disable the "CPU fan"


----------



## funfordcobra

There's 2 things that I wish I knew before I started putting in these 2 pumps. I wish I knew that pwm pumps without PWM signal ran at 10%. I also wish that I knew most water coolers that use pwm Pumps get the CPU fan error and just plug in a different fan to make it go away. It would have saved me a good 12 hours.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> There's 2 things that I wish I knew before I started putting in these 2 pumps. I wish I knew that pwm pumps without PWM signal ran at 10%. I also wish that I knew most water coolers that use pwm Pumps get the CPU fan error and just plug in a different fan to make it go away. It would have saved me a good 12 hours.


Learning experience bro. Now you know and it will save you 12 hours next time.









~Ceadder


----------



## dredeziel1

Question folks...Do you think that one 360 rad is enough for CPU and one GPU on a Matx mobo?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> Question folks...Do you think that one 360 rad is enough for CPU and one GPU on a Matx mobo?


It's adequate as long as it's not extremely oc'd.


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> It's adequate as long as it's not extremely oc'd.


I do mild OC ing on both...


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> I do mild OC ing on both...


Should be just fine


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Should be just fine


Thx all


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Was there any recall on the Vardar 120 ERs? I have like a squealing at around 25% to 50% PWM range in SpeedFan. 30-35% is really loud with the squeal.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Was there any recall on the Vardar 120 ERs? I have like a squealing at around 25% to 50% PWM range in SpeedFan. 30-35% is really loud with the squeal.


No recall but you can open a ticket on our website for a possible RMA


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No recall but you can open a ticket on our website for a possible RMA


RMA 16 fans... I don't know about that. 2 of them are clearly bad as the squealing they produce is unbearable and I've had them unplugged for the past month. The other 14, I thought the squealing was coming from one that I missed but I unplugged each to troubleshoot and it was still happening. I unplugged one of the SATA power connectors from my splitter so only half the fans were on and the squealing went down but was still there. Tried the other one and same thing.


----------



## akira749

hmmm I would be surprised that 16 fans would be faulty....do you have a video of the sound the last 14 ones are doing?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> hmmm I would be surprised that 16 fans would be faulty....do you have a video of the sound the last 14 ones are doing?


I will try and get some, it's very difficult to capture with a crappy microphone. At 20% and lower, they don't make any noise at all but in the 25-50% range they make weird noises.


----------



## tysonischarles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> I do mild OC ing on both...


I have 2 X 240mm slims on mine, I have a 4.4ghz OC on the CPU and 10% increase on my GPU. My fans are currently at 800rpm(they are 1450's) and I never seem to peak above 50-60 degrees, even under stress tests. So I'd say you would be fine


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tysonischarles*
> 
> I have 2 X 240mm slims on mine, I have a 4.4ghz OC on the CPU and 10% increase on my GPU. My fans are currently at 800rpm(they are 1450's) and I never seem to peak above 50-60 degrees, even under stress tests. So I'd say you would be fine


Thx..Nice build btw..


----------



## Thoth420

Hey all! I picked my custom EK cooled system up from Maingear this past weekend (prior fury x was defective). Anyway once back home I noticed my CPU block isn't getting liquid near the top part. I literally have no idea how to build a rig like this so I don't know if this is normal or not. I assume it could be from transport and just wanted to ask here. Pictures below:





Here is an image of the whole build(res seems as full as it can be):


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Hey all! I picked my custom EK cooled system up from Maingear this past weekend (prior fury x was defective). Anyway once back home I noticed my CPU block isn't getting liquid near the top part. I literally have no idea how to build a rig like this so I don't know if this is normal or not. I assume it could be from transport and just wanted to ask here. Pictures below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is an image of the whole build(res seems as full as it can be):


Looks like they didn't fully bleed the loop. Gently tilt the case side to side and front to back to see if you can dislodge that bubble. If temps seem good, you might just let it run for a week or so and see if it will work itself out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No recall but you can open a ticket on our website for a possible RMA
> 
> 
> 
> RMA 16 fans... I don't know about that. 2 of them are clearly bad as the squealing they produce is unbearable and I've had them unplugged for the past month. The other 14, I thought the squealing was coming from one that I missed but I unplugged each to troubleshoot and it was still happening. I unplugged one of the SATA power connectors from my splitter so only half the fans were on and the squealing went down but was still there. Tried the other one and same thing.
Click to expand...

I would suggest oiling them if at all possible. Beats opening an RMA.

Basically all you do is go under the sticker on the back pull the cap, use an oiling syringe to fill the well(the space where the cap fits) and then put both the cap and the sticker back in place. Down time is ~1hr. RMA'ing that many fans you're down for at least a week.









~Ceadder


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Looks like they didn't fully bleed the loop. Gently tilt the case side to side and front to back to see if you can dislodge that bubble. If temps seem good, you might just let it run for a week or so and see if it will work itself out.


I will give that a try and thank you!


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would suggest oiling them if at all possible. Beats opening an RMA.
> 
> Basically all you do is go under the sticker on the back pull the cap, use an oiling syringe to fill the well(the space where the cap fits) and then put both the cap and the sticker back in place. Down time is ~1hr. RMA'ing that many fans you're down for at least a week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What oil do I need to use and do 22 gauge needles work or is the oil too thick to push through it?

Edit: Still use this? http://www.overclock.net/t/1557364/do-you-oil-lubrciate-your-fans/20_20#post_23982806


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> I will give that a try and thank you!


Also if you continue having problems, drain the loop. Then, refill but this time use a few drops of soap. I've used a lot with tough bleeding problems and you just soak up the suds in the top of the res with a paper towel. It gets all bubbles out in about 3 hours of bleeding and your res will go back to the solid color again.

I had the hardest time before I started using soap its really handy. No more than 5-6 drops at an extreme. Most people use one but I always use at least 2.


----------



## tysonischarles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> I will give that a try and thank you!


I had the same problem with my loop, except I managed to get most of the bubble out. I did however have very tiny bubbles in the same place you do, they where gone after my 12h leak testing, so I don't think it's a big issue!


----------



## Thoth420

Thanks for the feedback guys.








I'm going to monitor temps this week while gaming and keep an eye on it. I tried to move it around to no avail. Keep you all posted but I'm not too worried as everything is running very smooth.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback guys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to monitor temps this week while gaming and keep an eye on it. I tried to move it around to no avail. Keep you all posted but I'm not too worried as everything is running very smooth.


Buoyancy. Try laying it on its side for a few days and see if it works out.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Hey all! I picked my custom EK cooled system up from Maingear this past weekend (prior fury x was defective). Anyway once back home I noticed my CPU block isn't getting liquid near the top part. I literally have no idea how to build a rig like this so I don't know if this is normal or not. I assume it could be from transport and just wanted to ask here. Pictures below:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is an image of the whole build(res seems as full as it can be):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I really can't tell from the pictures, but, did you switch the inlet with the outlet, on the CPU Block?

That would cause a problem...


----------



## Thoth420

@ inedenimadam I'll def try lying it on it's side as I was considering that already.

@JourneymanMike I didn't build the system so how would I check that? I'll try and get some better pictures tomorrow.

Cheers guys this system is a bit overwhelming in regard to maintenance but certainly been performing great so far


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> did you switch the inlet with the outlet, on the CPU Block?


Nice catch, I cant figure it out either by the pictures.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Cheers guys this system is a bit overwhelming in regard to maintenance but certainly been performing great so far


There are two ports on the CPU block, the one that is closer to the middle of the block is the "in" and the one closer to the edge of the block is "out" If you follow the the line "out" you should hit the reservoir before the pump. If you follow the "in" line, you should hit the pump before the res. It kind of looks like the "in" dumps directly into the top of the res, but the res top obfuscates the line because you took a photo from below, so its hard to tell...

Nice looking rig, very clean.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Nice catch, I cant figure it out either by the pictures.
> There are two ports on the CPU block, the one that is closer to the middle of the block is the "in" and the one closer to the edge of the block is "out" If you follow the the line "out" you should hit the reservoir before the pump. If you follow the "in" line, you should hit the pump before the res. It kind of looks like the "in" dumps directly into the top of the res, but the res top obfuscates the line because you took a photo from below, so its hard to tell...
> 
> Nice looking rig, very clean.


Based on that info the left port with the tube going over top is the "in". I believe it dumps into the bottom of the pump but I will pull the panels off tomorrow and trace the tubing to be sure.

Thanks for the compliment I specced the parts and design and Maingear executed it exactly as I wanted and the wait was certainly worth it.


----------



## tysonischarles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> @ inedenimadam I'll def try lying it on it's side as I was considering that already.
> 
> @JourneymanMike I didn't build the system so how would I check that? I'll try and get some better pictures tomorrow.
> 
> Cheers guys this system is a bit overwhelming in regard to maintenance but certainly been performing great so far


You should be able to tilt/ rotate your case in a way that will get the bubble close to the out port!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would suggest oiling them if at all possible. Beats opening an RMA.
> 
> Basically all you do is go under the sticker on the back pull the cap, use an oiling syringe to fill the well(the space where the cap fits) and then put both the cap and the sticker back in place. Down time is ~1hr. RMA'ing that many fans you're down for at least a week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What oil do I need to use and do 22 gauge needles work or is the oil too thick to push through it?
> 
> Edit: Still use this? http://www.overclock.net/t/1557364/do-you-oil-lubrciate-your-fans/20_20#post_23982806
Click to expand...

I oil my fans when they appear to be sticking during normal operation speed. I use 3n1 oil and it works just fine. Dust is almost always the cause of a dead or dying fan so wiping sleeved bearings before applying lubrication is a good way to go.









Pretty sure Vardars are ball type bearings. I don't use a needle when I oil either but you can get gun oiling kits that have a reasonable size oiling syringe included. I can't specify which size to get because I don't know from gauges of needles. But 3n1 is a reasonably thin oil so it should go through a fairly small gauge needle if you already have one on hand. Sewing machine oil is also good cause you can get a small bottle that has a needle with it.









~Ceadder


----------



## mcspawnagain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luke997*
> 
> Good idea, I think I'll join in:
> 
> CPU block - Supreme HF - Acetal + Nickel
> 3x GPU blocks - FC480 GTX - Acetal + Nickel
> 3x GPU backplates - FC480 - Black
> MB block - FB ASUS X58 - Acetal + Nickel
> MB Mosfet blocks - MOSFET ASUS X58 Kit - Acetal + Nickel
> GPU Bridge - FC Bridge - Triple Serial (currently out of the loop)
> 
> Photos are in the links in my sig.


really nice build man!!


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> hmmm I would be surprised that 16 fans would be faulty....do you have a video of the sound the last 14 ones are doing?


OK here it is:

http://vocaroo.com/i/s1TXwxKVYMpi

At 5 seconds I go from 20% to 25% and at 11 seconds in I go from 25% to 30%. May need to turn the volume up to hear the squealing/squeaking.


----------



## Origondoo

Hello together.

Today I received my EK-FB ASUS M8I monoblock and was a kind of disapointed as the packaging was already unsealed (seems like the distributor sold me a return block). Nevertheless I was thinking ok, if the block is in good condition, doen't matter it was unsealed. But after removing the protecting sticker for the contact surface with CPU I discovered an isuue. The surface has a lot of small scratches, something you normally do not see from EK products (I also have EK-FB ASUS M6I monoblock and its surface is mirroring smooth). Therefore I would like to know if this surface (see the pics below) is normal?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> OK here it is:
> 
> http://vocaroo.com/i/s1TXwxKVYMpi
> 
> At 5 seconds I go from 20% to 25% and at 11 seconds in I go from 25% to 30%. May need to turn the volume up to hear the squealing/squeaking.


All I hear is a slight increase in volume (due to the higher speed of the fans I imagine), but no change in noise pitch or tone. Is that recording exactly how it is for you?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> All I hear is a slight increase in volume (due to the higher speed of the fans I imagine), but no change in noise pitch or tone. Is that recording exactly how it is for you?


I can hear it on that recording very well but I have a headphone amp that can blast the hell out of volume. You don't hear the noise at 5s and 11s?

Edit: It's 5s to 11s for 25% and 30% past 11s.

Edit: Normalized volume (LOUD): http://vocaroo.com/i/s1xMVxw1m73Z


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I can hear it on that recording very well but I have a headphone amp that can blast the hell out of volume. You don't hear the noise at 5s and 11s?
> 
> Edit: It's 5s to 11s for 25% and 30% past 11s.
> 
> Edit: Normalized volume (LOUD): http://vocaroo.com/i/s1xMVxw1m73Z


Yeah I can hear that extra tone now. Might be worth opening them up to see if the bearings are completely sealed or if there's some lube seepage going on.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I can hear it on that recording very well but I have a headphone amp that can blast the hell out of volume. You don't hear the noise at 5s and 11s?
> 
> Edit: It's 5s to 11s for 25% and 30% past 11s.
> 
> Edit: Normalized volume (LOUD): http://vocaroo.com/i/s1xMVxw1m73Z


Are those pwm fans? and if yes what's the max rpm of them?

I had same similar weird noise issue for Noctua industrials. See the linked videos below (you have to turn volume to max)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















EDIT: in the end it was confirmed that'S the normal behavior due to their new motor with 6 poles and PWM.


----------



## lowfat




----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very smexy









Now I know what I'll do with my EK-FB M8I nickel.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah I can hear that extra tone now. Might be worth opening them up to see if the bearings are completely sealed or if there's some lube seepage going on.


Damn. It seems like it's with all the fans though. If I test the 14 individually, they all seem fine but running all at once, the annoying noise is really prominent. They're on 2x 8 way splitters and when I disconnect each one and run with half the fans, the sound is still there but less prominent. So I'm guessing even with 1, the sound is still there but having 14-16 fans running, the squealing gets amplified to be annoying enough.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Are those pwm fans? and if yes what's the max rpm of them?
> 
> I had same similar weird noise issue for Noctua industrials. See the linked videos below (you have to turn volume to max)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: in the end it was confirmed that'S the normal behavior due to their new motor with 6 poles and PWM.


2200 I think. I didn't have this issue with the regular 1850 Vardars I had before.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Damn. It seems like it's with all the fans though. If I test the 14 individually, they all seem fine but running all at once, the annoying noise is really prominent. They're on 2x 8 way splitters and when I disconnect each one and run with half the fans, the sound is still there but less prominent. So I'm guessing even with 1, the sound is still there but having 14-16 fans running, the squealing gets amplified to be annoying enough.


Is it possible that they draw to much power and / or PWM signal gets distorted?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Is it possible that they draw to much power and / or PWM signal gets distorted?


I'm using these: http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter.aspx so they aren't powered from the header. Didn't have any issues with the old Vardars I had.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Damn. It seems like it's with all the fans though. If I test the 14 individually, they all seem fine but running all at once, the annoying noise is really prominent. They're on 2x 8 way splitters and when I disconnect each one and run with half the fans, the sound is still there but less prominent. So I'm guessing even with 1, the sound is still there but having 14-16 fans running, the squealing gets amplified to be annoying enough.
> 2200 I think. I didn't have this issue with the regular 1850 Vardars I had before.


I wonder if this is from some of your fans running at a different speed than the others. There's always going to be a variation but I never noticed it enough to cause a harmonic effect with any of the Vardar fans.


----------



## funfordcobra

Those ek dual pumps are strong. If I leave them on PWM duty, they vibrate my whole desk spooling up and down lol.

Both full speed isn't bad, but both at 60% is crazy.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I'm using these: http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter.aspx so they aren't powered from the header. Didn't have any issues with the old Vardars I had.


I have 3 120ER's (and 4 140ER's) and I have them connected to corsair link. I don't have any whining issues. I did however have them with the 140's for the recall. But overall I didn't have any issues with the 120's (well I had to RMA one of them for whining). Now they are all good.

Would you maybe think about getting a corsair link mini to controll them, and then using the swiftech splitter as the source for the extra power? I'm saying that because the Corsair link mini only has like 4amp power


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Is it possible that they draw to much power and / or PWM signal gets distorted?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using these: http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter.aspx so they aren't powered from the header. Didn't have any issues with the old Vardars I had.
Click to expand...

Probably the problem was caused by the splitter? What do you mean they're fine when testing individually? Did you try connect the fan individually to the PWM header on the motherboard?

On a personal note, I'll stick with Corsair SP fans for my build & future builds. Not economical for me to get Vardar in case I need to send it back for RMA.


----------



## Jidonsu

Sometimes you do what you gotta do to make something work with your video card. See more in the build log.


----------



## Thoth420

Hey all so I managed to get the air bubble out of my CPU block by tilting the case on it's side and running the hitman abso benchmark a few times to put everything under load.

Thanks again for all the assistance to everyone that lended suggestions! I'm here to learn.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Hey all so I managed to get the air bubble out of my CPU block by tilting the case on it's side and running the hitman abso benchmark a few times to put everything under load.
> 
> Thanks again for all the assistance to everyone that lended suggestions! I'm here to learn.


Awesome! What are your temps?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Sometimes you do what you gotta do to make something work with your video card. See more in the build log.


Wow what's that all about. I have Thermospheres for my 6870s and would never have contemplated attacking the mounting adapters with a Dremel.









My Swiftech heatsinks on the other hand...









~Ceadder


----------



## Iceman2733

Houston we have a problem, all my stuff from PPcs finally came in so decided to get components ready as I wait for my case labs case. Low and behold NO thermal material for the memory of my video card in one of the blocks......







I hope PPcs can help me fix this issue even tho they are sold out now of my block. double







now I guess I need to get everything out and double check it all


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Houston we have a problem, all my stuff from PPcs finally came in so decided to get components ready as I wait for my case labs case. Low and behold NO thermal material for the memory of my video card in one of the blocks......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope PPcs can help me fix this issue even tho they are sold out now of my block. double
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now I guess I need to get everything out and double check it all


they do sell ek ram thermal pads and they're cheap, i'm actually buying some in my next order from them when the bitspower plugs i want are back in stock.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-thermal-pad-e-0-5mm-ram-8x.html


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> they do sell ek ram thermal pads and they're cheap, i'm actually buying some in my next order from them when the bitspower plugs i want are back in stock.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-thermal-pad-e-0-5mm-ram-8x.html


Thanks big time man I wasn't for sure if that is all I needed or what the thickness or length of the pads were. I am hoping I can get a hold of someone at PPcs and get some help with this.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Thanks big time man I wasn't for sure if that is all I needed or what the thickness or length of the pads were. I am hoping I can get a hold of someone at PPcs and get some help with this.


Np. Check your instruction manual that came with the block. It should list the thickness for the thermal pads for the memory chips and voltage regs. For my blocks the memory chips use .5mm and vrms use 1mm.


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wow what's that all about. I have Thermospheres for my 6870s and would never have contemplated attacking the mounting adapters with a Dremel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Swiftech heatsinks on the other hand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The EVGA 980ti non reference cards have a midplate that acts as a heat sink. There are these tabs that prevent the mounting of some universal GPU water blocks if you keep the midplate. You can either hack the midplate and likely void the Evga warranty, use a copper shim with alternative standoffs, remove the midplate and use aftermarket heatsinks, or hack the EK bracket. I decided to buy a spare bracket so this purpose. Ha!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1588838/build-log-liquid-black-fury#post_24823875

I could've used the EK VGA Supremacy as is without modification, but I like the look of the Thermosphere more.


----------



## andrej124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Houston we have a problem, all my stuff from PPcs finally came in so decided to get components ready as I wait for my case labs case. Low and behold NO thermal material for the memory of my video card in one of the blocks......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope PPcs can help me fix this issue even tho they are sold out now of my block. double
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now I guess I need to get everything out and double check it all


Can you tell me which water block did you get?


----------



## Dave6531

What you all think? Painted the backing for d5 xtop pump cover and color filled the d5 cover writing in grey. I will be using red fluid so it should be a nice accent color.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> What you all think? Painted the backing for d5 xtop pump cover and color filled the d5 cover writing in grey. I will be using red fluid so it should be a nice accent color.


That's really nice







Looking forward to see it with coolant


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> Can you tell me which water block did you get?


I have the EK-FC980-TI-TF5-NK block, Like i said I purchased two of these and one came with the thermal pads the other did not. It was factory sealed on the top and bottom of the box, I have triple checked to make sure it was not in there.


----------



## gdubc

I may have missed it, but are there any plans for an all white 140mm vardar anytime soon?


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I may have missed it, but are there any plans for an all white 140mm vardar anytime soon?


+1


----------



## VSG

+2


----------



## Thoth420

I'll get the full cooling parts list from Maingear but it's all EK. Hope this is turtly enough to get me into the turtle club!









Pictures as some have requested(sorry for the medium quality images, my phone sucks and I have GAD so my hands shake) this was the best I could manage in my dungeon lair. I tried to get shots of anything that matters. Yes that is a 2.5mm laptop HDD under the Intel SSD









All build credit goes to *Maingear Computers*. I am merely a padawan who could never build this.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







It's hard to see but there is a T connector in the back for bleeding the loop that I just discovered









Thanks to everyone who lended assistance in the prior days. I promise high quality photos when I can.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Hello together.
> 
> Today I received my EK-FB ASUS M8I monoblock and was a kind of disapointed as the packaging was already unsealed (seems like the distributor sold me a return block). Nevertheless I was thinking ok, if the block is in good condition, doen't matter it was unsealed. But after removing the protecting sticker for the contact surface with CPU I discovered an isuue. The surface has a lot of small scratches, something you normally do not see from EK products (I also have EK-FB ASUS M6I monoblock and its surface is mirroring smooth). Therefore I would like to know if this surface (see the pics below) is normal?


BUMP!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Hello together.
> 
> Today I received my EK-FB ASUS M8I monoblock and was a kind of disapointed as the packaging was already unsealed (seems like the distributor sold me a return block). Nevertheless I was thinking ok, if the block is in good condition, doen't matter it was unsealed. But after removing the protecting sticker for the contact surface with CPU I discovered an isuue. The surface has a lot of small scratches, something you normally do not see from EK products (I also have EK-FB ASUS M6I monoblock and its surface is mirroring smooth). Therefore I would like to know if this surface (see the pics below) is normal?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUMP!
Click to expand...

Well here is an image I found with googler:



So yes I can see a difference in yours. Maybe it was lapped and then returned, but if you run your fingernail across it and it doesn't catch I don't think the scratches would be enough to worry about, the TIM should fill it in. You can always RMA it if your worried too much about it.


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> BUMP!


My brand new EK Thermosphere also looked like that. I assume the thermal compound will just fill the gaps anyways.

Yes, I know I modified one of the brackets, but it was obviously off the block when I did that.


----------



## Jidonsu

I did a quick search. It seems to be fairly normal.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> BUMP!
> 
> 
> 
> My brand new EK Thermosphere also looked like that. I assume the thermal compound will just fill the gaps anyways.
> 
> Yes, I know I modified one of the brackets, but it was obviously off the block when I did that.
Click to expand...

Maybe EK changed their finishing technique recently, hopefully @andrejEKWB or someone can chime in about it.


----------



## VSG

Those machining marks are normal, that surface is actually extremely flat. As mentioned above, run your fingers by them and check.

Edit: A similar question was posed in another thread, which was answered by an EK rep: http://www.overclock.net/t/1584713/horrendous-ekwb-block-quality-for-asus-strix-980ti-anyone-else-have-this/0_50#post_24718903


----------



## Iceman2733

I had to change out the jet in my brand new evo block how tight should I tighten it back too? I noticed it was quite tight when removing it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wow what's that all about. I have Thermospheres for my 6870s and would never have contemplated attacking the mounting adapters with a Dremel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Swiftech heatsinks on the other hand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The EVGA 980ti non reference cards have a midplate that acts as a heat sink. There are these tabs that prevent the mounting of some universal GPU water blocks if you keep the midplate. You can either hack the midplate and likely void the Evga warranty, use a copper shim with alternative standoffs, remove the midplate and use aftermarket heatsinks, or hack the EK bracket. I decided to buy a spare bracket so this purpose. Ha!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1588838/build-log-liquid-black-fury#post_24823875
> 
> I could've used the EK VGA Supremacy as is without modification, but I like the look of the Thermosphere more.
Click to expand...

I understand now.









Apparently OCN photo albums no longer has my Swiftech heatsink pics in it. I was gonna repost it here to show the level to which one has to mod it to fit Thermosphere to but oh well.









Great job on fitting that adapter bracket to your card.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I understand now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently OCN photo albums no longer has my Swiftech heatsink pics in it. I was gonna repost it here to show the level to which one has to mod it to fit Thermosphere to but oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great job on fitting that adapter bracket to your card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thank you. I should've ordered two extra ones instead of one. I'd rather not modify the one that came with the Thermosphere. Now that I know what to do, I think I can make it look better. They're not actually sold on EK's site. I had to email them. They were $6 to buy and $14 to ship. Ha!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I understand now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently OCN photo albums no longer has my Swiftech heatsink pics in it. I was gonna repost it here to show the level to which one has to mod it to fit Thermosphere to but oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great job on fitting that adapter bracket to your card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. I should've ordered two extra ones instead of one. I'd rather not modify the one that came with the Thermosphere. Now that I know what to do, I think I can make it look better. They're not actually sold on EK's site. I had to email them. They were $6 to buy and $14 to ship. Ha!
Click to expand...

I got my g92s from Performance-PCs. Luckily for me they were part of my Thermosphere order.









~Ceadder


----------



## andrej124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> I have the EK-FC980-TI-TF5-NK block, Like i said I purchased two of these and one came with the thermal pads the other did not. It was factory sealed on the top and bottom of the box, I have triple checked to make sure it was not in there.


Did you submit the the support ticket with us?


----------



## rck1984

Hi folks,

After a few different AIO's in the last couple years, i'm seriously considering my first custom loop right now.
First brand that came into mind was EKWB really, so i started looking around and noticed these kits. Right now, i got my eyes on the EK L240 R2.0 kit.

It contains the EK Supremacy MX CPU-block, CoolStream PE 240 rad and XRES 100 DDC MX 3.1 PWM pump/res combo.

To start, i would like to make a loop for at least for my CPU, later I'd like to add another rad and a GPU-block for my GTX980Ti (all specs of build are below).
Would this be a good kit to start my water-cooling journey with? Also, i would like some black fittings instead of the standard nickle ones. Since this is new to me, i am wondering what size i should be looking at?

Thanks!


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Hi folks,
> 
> After a few different AIO's in the last couple years, i'm seriously considering my first custom loop right now.
> First brand that came into mind was EKWB really, so i started looking around and noticed these kits. Right now, i got my eyes on the EK L240 R2.0 kit.
> 
> It contains the EK Supremacy MX CPU-block, CoolStream PE 240 rad and XRES 100 DDC MX 3.1 PWM pump/res combo.
> 
> To start, i would like to make a loop for at least for my CPU, later I'd like to add another rad and a GPU-block for my GTX980Ti (all specs of build are below).
> Would this be a good kit to start my water-cooling journey with? Also, i would like some black fittings instead of the standard nickle ones. Since this is new to me, i am wondering what size i should be looking at?
> 
> Thanks!


Well if you get that kit, it has 16/10mm fittings and 16/10mm tubing, so if you wanted to get different fittings then you would need to get 16/10mm fittings if you didn't want to buy more tubing.

So individually it would be:

EK-XRES 100 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite (incl. pump) - 130

EK Supremacy evo CPU block - 62

6 x 16/10mm fittings - 32.4

3 m of 16/10mm ZMT tubing or LRT tubing - 12.7/22

EK PE 240 rad - 65

EVO 1L of premix - 7.8

So individually it comes to 310 euros, thats assuming you have fans and dont want the PSU jumper ect

Even if you get the kit, 6 fittings so you can have black ones it comes out as cheaper.

Only thing that would personally bother me is I don't like the aesthetics of the MX block, but it might even be cheaper if you buy the upgrades separately


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Well if you get that kit, it has 16/10mm fittings and 16/10mm tubing, so if you wanted to get different fittings then you would need to get 16/10mm fittings if you didn't want to buy more tubing.
> 
> So individually it would be:
> 
> EK-XRES 100 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite (incl. pump) - 130
> 
> EK Supremacy evo CPU block - 62
> 
> 6 x 16/10mm fittings - 32.4
> 
> 3 m of 16/10mm ZMT tubing or LRT tubing - 12.7/22
> 
> EK PE 240 rad - 65
> 
> EVO 1L of premix - 7.8
> 
> So individually it comes to 310 euros, thats assuming you have fans and dont want the PSU jumper ect
> 
> Even if you get the kit, 6 fittings so you can have black ones it comes out as cheaper.
> 
> Only thing that would personally bother me is I don't like the aesthetics of the MX block, but it might even be cheaper if you buy the upgrades separately


Thanks for your quick reply









I plan on using the EK PE 240 in the top of the case where my H110i GT is right now, which has a 280 rad. So, i kind of need two 120mm fans anyway.
I noticed that the kit comes with two EK-Vardar F3-120's so that makes the kit definitely cheaper compared to buying separate parts.

The question was more like: "Is this a good kit to start with?" Performance/quality? Can i just add another (240 or 360) radiator and a GPU-block later, or do i need to upgrade the pump first for example?


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Thanks for your quick reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan on using the EK PE 240 in the top of the case where my H110i GT is right now, which has a 280 rad. So, i kind of need two 120mm fans anyway.
> I noticed that the kit comes with two EK-Vardar F3-120's so that makes the kit definitely cheaper compared to buying separate parts.
> 
> The question was more like: "Is this a good kit to start with?" Performance/quality? Can i just add another (240 or 360) radiator and a GPU-block later, or do i need to upgrade the pump first for example?


Its a great starting kit and the pump will handle most basic loops, I have that exact same pump and I have 2 240mm rads, Supremacy evo block and a gpu block. To upgrade the loop you'll just need whatever block/rad and more fittings.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Thanks for your quick reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan on using the EK PE 240 in the top of the case where my H110i GT is right now, which has a 280 rad. So, i kind of need two 120mm fans anyway.
> I noticed that the kit comes with two EK-Vardar F3-120's so that makes the kit definitely cheaper compared to buying separate parts.
> 
> The question was more like: "Is this a good kit to start with?" Performance/quality? Can i just add another (240 or 360) radiator and a GPU-block later, or do i need to upgrade the pump first for example?


I started my water cooling adventures with that kit.
Although a 240 will be enough for a CPU. If you want to add a GPU to the loop you will need a bit more rad space. Rule of thumb 120mm per component plus an extra 120mm for overhead.
But either way, it's a great kit, comes with everything you need to get you started. A manual for installation aswel!


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Its a great starting kit and the pump will handle most basic loops, I have that exact same pump and I have 2 240mm rads, Supremacy evo block and a gpu block. To upgrade the loop you'll just need whatever block/rad and more fittings.












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> I started my water cooling adventures with that kit.
> Although a 240 will be enough for a CPU. If you want to add a GPU to the loop you will need a bit more rad space. Rule of thumb 120mm per component plus an extra 120mm for overhead.
> But either way, it's a great kit, comes with everything you need to get you started. A manual for installation aswel!


Yep, I am aware that i need more rad space when i want to add a GPU to the loop as well








Thinking of starting with a CPU loop now and adding another 240 or 360 radiator and a GPU block later, in some weeks/months. Gotta start somewhere right?









One click away from ordering, gonna do a little more research and go for it i guess!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Its a great starting kit and the pump will handle most basic loops, I have that exact same pump and I have 2 240mm rads, Supremacy evo block and a gpu block. To upgrade the loop you'll just need whatever block/rad and more fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> I started my water cooling adventures with that kit.
> Although a 240 will be enough for a CPU. If you want to add a GPU to the loop you will need a bit more rad space. Rule of thumb 120mm per component plus an extra 120mm for overhead.
> But either way, it's a great kit, comes with everything you need to get you started. A manual for installation aswel!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yep, I am aware that i need more rad space when i want to add a GPU to the loop as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of starting with a CPU loop now and adding another 240 or 360 radiator and a GPU block later, in some weeks/months. Gotta start somewhere right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One click away from ordering, gonna do a little more research and go for it i guess!
Click to expand...

Go for it your good, EK kits are the best.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Well here is an image I found with googler:
> 
> 
> 
> So yes I can see a difference in yours. Maybe it was lapped and then returned, but if you run your fingernail across it and it doesn't catch I don't think the scratches would be enough to worry about, the TIM should fill it in. You can always RMA it if your worried too much about it.


That's the point made me confused. On the picture the surface is very smooth, as it is on my M6I monoblock.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> My brand new EK Thermosphere also looked like that. I assume the thermal compound will just fill the gaps anyways.
> 
> Yes, I know I modified one of the brackets, but it was obviously off the block when I did that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> I did a quick search. It seems to be fairly normal.


Maybe these are really a normal process marcs. But in my case it seemed that the marcs have been added after the plating.

Nevertheless I decided to RMA it, and get sealed one.


----------



## akira749

New EK-FC Terminals are now available!


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> New EK-FC Terminals are now available!


Is the EK-FC Terminal Direct the same as the one that is included with the Intel SSD 750 water block?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> New EK-FC Terminals are now available!


But sadly . . . . . .

Still nothing about Signalkuppe . . . . .


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> That's the point made me confused. On the picture the surface is very smooth, as it is on my M6I monoblock.
> 
> Maybe these are really a normal process marcs. But in my case it seemed that the marcs have been added after the plating.
> 
> Nevertheless I decided to RMA it, and get sealed one.


You're probably going to get one that's identical. The photo you found is the stock photo on EK's site. It's either a trick of the light or just a sample they made for taking pictures. An EK rep has already said elsewhere that it's normal.

But if you end up getting one that has a mirror finish, awesome!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> New EK-FC Terminals are now available!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But sadly . . . . . .
> 
> Still nothing about Signalkuppe . . . . .
Click to expand...

I agree, it is sad.
I'm at a crossroad now, need a good fan controller, but not wanting to fork out the big bucks for an Aquaero.
Our dollar is terrible now, so it would be the better part of half a grand (cad$) including the stupid bracket required from Case Labs.

Idk if the EK Signalkuppe would be much less expensive, but I bet it will be.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

7-way waterblock bridge...


----------



## rck1984

Very close at ordering the EK 240 kit but i'm looking at my rig right now and i'm wondering where i should put the pump/res combo without making the loop "too long". I was thinking of putting it in the rear-chamber in my Corsair 540, probably looks best and plenty of space back there.

Anyone else here with this particular case? And/or suggestions for a CPU only loop?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Is the EK-FC Terminal Direct the same as the one that is included with the Intel SSD 750 water block?


Yes









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> But sadly . . . . . .
> 
> Still nothing about Signalkuppe . . . . .


Unfortunately no









I really hope we will be able to release it soon.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Well here is an image I found with googler:
> 
> 
> 
> So yes I can see a difference in yours. Maybe it was lapped and then returned, but if you run your fingernail across it and it doesn't catch I don't think the scratches would be enough to worry about, the TIM should fill it in. You can always RMA it if your worried too much about it.
> 
> 
> 
> That's the point made me confused. On the picture the surface is very smooth, as it is on my M6I monoblock.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> My brand new EK Thermosphere also looked like that. I assume the thermal compound will just fill the gaps anyways.
> 
> Yes, I know I modified one of the brackets, but it was obviously off the block when I did that.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> I did a quick search. It seems to be fairly normal.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Maybe these are really a normal process marcs. But in my case it seemed that the marcs have been added after the plating.
> 
> Nevertheless I decided to RMA it, and get sealed one.
Click to expand...

That's normal for Thermosphere. I have a pair of them(Acrylic/Copper) and the cooling plates are thin so they can't be polished to the same mirror shine that comes on the EVO block and Monoblocks. There is nothing wrong with them. But one should not judge EK quality based on Thermosphere plates. I have EK Supreme HF and Crosshair IV Formula blocks and both of them are mirror finished quality.

I would have to say that someone took paper to that Monoblock, scratched the surface and returned it. The unit was resold without inspection imho. Cause nobody familiar with EK quality would have sold that block had they inspected it. Or at least they shouldn't have if they inspected it.









~Ceader


----------



## Alpina 7

In


----------



## FXformat

Just started a new micro atx build, took my training bra off after using AIO for so long...going with all EK stuff, just bought the xres 140 D5 Revo, waiting on a 360mm rad and still deciding on a monoblock or just cpu block. Acrylic tubing with white pastel.









And this is my other rig, i7 6700K/gtx 980 small form ITX


both cases look the same just one is bigger than the other lol. Both rigs have same specs...


----------



## funfordcobra

For the asus deluxe monoblock x99 do I need to take the board out of the case or can it just bolt on?


----------



## Vlada011

This build is fantastic with Maximus VIII Gene and X-RES Revo D5 ...and legendary Lian-Li PC-O6S.
Aluminium case is something best.



I hope one day some extra money from upgrade will remain enough to build some smaller custom loop for GPU and CPU.
At least for these EKWB Predator or Swftech H220/H320 X2 Prestige.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Just started a new micro atx build, took my training bra off after using AIO for so long...going with all EK stuff, just bought the xres 140 D5 Revo, waiting on a 360mm rad and still deciding on a monoblock or just cpu block. Acrylic tubing with white pastel.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is my other rig, i7 6700K/gtx 980 small form ITX
> 
> 
> both cases look the same just one is bigger than the other lol. Both rigs have same specs...


Man I love that case! It's the one I've been wanting for quite a while, but unfortunately it seems my Predator 360 won't fit inside it. It says on the Lian Li website that L/W/H can max be 400/132/60mm) and the Predator 360 is 415/133/68mm (with fans).


----------



## Mads1

Recieved a pair of vardar 120er f4 today,before i bought aload for my new build not that impressed with them, i thought the pwm extended version go down to 25%, im running them through speed fan and they only work from 50%, plus they have terrible whine,


----------



## ITAngel

Hey guys I started my build yesterday, some rubbing came with my kit that I got but was only 4ft long. It didn't say how big the diameter it was so anyone can help me with that? I am using these with them EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm Nickel

Primochill Advanced LRT Clear Tubing


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Man I love that case! It's the one I've been wanting for quite a while, but unfortunately it seems my Predator 360 won't fit inside it. It says on the Lian Li website that L/W/H can max be 400/132/60mm) and the Predator 360 is 415/133/68mm (with fans).


I love how it looks, hate how restricted you are when it comes to watercooling..but nothing looks sweeter than that all glass panel and the vertically mounted GPU...i'm going with an EK 360x130x68 rad...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Recieved a pair of vardar 120er f4 today,before i bought aload for my new build not that impressed with them, i thought the pwm extended version go down to 25%, im running them through speed fan and they only work from 50%, plus they have terrible whine,


Something is wrong with them because they are suppose to be able to run at 25%


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Something is wrong with them because they are suppose to be able to run at 25%


Yes def, ive tried different headers cables , splitter cables, mobo headers, its driving me mad lol.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Recieved a pair of vardar 120er f4 today,before i bought aload for my new build not that impressed with them, i thought the pwm extended version go down to 25%, im running them through speed fan and they only work from 50%, plus they have terrible whine,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something is wrong with them because they are suppose to be able to run at 25%
Click to expand...

Could the curve in speedfan be keeping them from running that low? Did you uncheck the automatic fan settings and try slowing them down manually?


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Could the curve in speedfan be keeping them from running that low? Did you uncheck the automatic fan settings and try slowing them down manually?


Yep first thing i done, been using it since dot so i know its not my set up. Even on manual setting they stop at 50%, i had enermax before that went to 35% no problem.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Could the curve in speedfan be keeping them from running that low? Did you uncheck the automatic fan settings and try slowing them down manually?
> 
> 
> 
> Yep first thing i done, been using it since dot so i know its not my set up. Even on manual setting they stop at 50%, i had enermax before that went to 35% no problem.
Click to expand...

You said they stop at 50%, does that mean you can't go any lower in speedfan than 50%, or you can go lower but you can tell by the RPMs they aren't slowing down anymore?


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> You said they stop at 50%, does that mean you can't go any lower in speedfan than 50%, or you can go lower but you can tell by the RPMs they aren't slowing down anymore?


Asoon as you go under 50% they stop speed set up from 0-100, its beating me at the moment. All other fans are fine.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Recieved a pair of vardar 120er f4 today,before i bought aload for my new build not that impressed with them, i thought the pwm extended version go down to 25%, im running them through speed fan and they only work from 50%, plus they have terrible whine,


Run them as DC. On my aquaero my f3s get down to 200


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Run them as DC. On my aquaero my f3s get down to 200


Same thing get to 50% they stop.


----------



## Kimir

Because you are using voltage control and not pwm control on them. I can set 0% on pwm signal and they will run at the lowest speed they can, which is 25%.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Hey guys I started my build yesterday, some rubbing came with my kit that I got but was only 4ft long. It didn't say how big the diameter it was so anyone can help me with that? I am using these with them EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm Nickel
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT Clear Tubing


Break out the ruler and measure it.


----------



## funfordcobra

Yea I think the cyclic duty is 40% from what I remember.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> For the asus deluxe monoblock x99 do I need to take the board out of the case or can it just bolt on?


----------



## rck1984

Ordered my EK-KIT L240 (R2.0) today, together with some elbow fittings. First time going the custom watercooling route, i hope it beats the crap out of my Corsair AIO








Starting with the CPU only for now, adding a 240/360 rad and a GPU block for my 980Ti later.

Really excited, package should arrive tomorrow


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Yea I think the cyclic duty is 40% from what I remember.


40% is for the F4-120 and 25% is for the F4-120ER


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Something is wrong with them because they are suppose to be able to run at 25%


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Yes def, ive tried different headers cables , splitter cables, mobo headers, its driving me mad lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Yep first thing i done, been using it since dot so i know its not my set up. Even on manual setting they stop at 50%, i had enermax before that went to 35% no problem.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Asoon as you go under 50% they stop speed set up from 0-100, its beating me at the moment. All other fans are fine.


I'm using corsair link, and I can only drop my 120ERs down to 40%. But that's not the fans fault. It's the fault of corsair link as it can only controll then from 40% to 100%


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I'm using corsair link, and I can only drop my 120ERs down to 40%. But that's not the fans fault. It's the fault of corsair link as it can only controll then from 40% to 100%


As i said i was running enermax pwm fans that run at a duty of 35% , all i did was swap the fans, not sure whats going on to be honest.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*


DO I NEED TO HAVE THE MB OUT OF THE CASE TO PUT ON AN ASUS X99 MONOBLOCK???? OR DOES IT BOLT ON?


----------



## DtheM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> DO I NEED TO HAVE THE MB OUT OF THE CASE TO PUT ON AN ASUS X99 MONOBLOCK???? OR DOES IT BOLT ON?


Your capslock seems to be stuck...


----------



## funfordcobra

It's because I've asked the same question 4 times over 20 hours. Thanks for your helpful post.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*


Take it out, like the instruction manual says.


----------



## acanom

Hello everyone,

I got a cheap 2nd GTX770 Gainward Phantom.
I already have one running in my rig with the EK fullblock.

Unfortunately EK is no longer building the EK-FC770 GTX GW and I can´t get one anywhere in Europe. I looked and asked every seller I could find.

If possible I want to avoid using another brand, the only one I could find for that card is the Alphacool NexXxoS GPX. But that won´t fit the looks of my PC and I want to use the EK bridge on those cards...

So here is my question, is there another EK FC block that fits the Gainward GTX 770?

Thanks in advance for your help


----------



## funfordcobra

best bet is probably ebay


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> best bet is probably ebay


+
Yeah, keeping my eyes open already, but at the moment I can´t find one anywhere.

I read somewhere, that the GTX 680 block should fit, is that an option?


----------



## funfordcobra

I'm not sure on that one man. Id PM someone from EK.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I got a cheap 2nd GTX770 Gainward Phantom.
> I already have one running in my rig with the EK fullblock.
> 
> Unfortunately EK is no longer building the EK-FC770 GTX GW and I can´t get one anywhere in Europe. I looked and asked every seller I could find.
> 
> If possible I want to avoid using another brand, the only one I could find for that card is the Alphacool NexXxoS GPX. But that won´t fit the looks of my PC and I want to use the EK bridge on those cards...
> 
> So here is my question, is there another EK FC block that fits the Gainward GTX 770?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help


Unfortunately, the only block that fitted this card was the GW version of the EK-FC770 GTX series.


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Unfortunately, the only block that fitted this card was the GW version of the EK-FC770 GTX series.


Oh man









That's too bad.
So I'll have to keep looking.

Thank you both for your help!

So anyone selling a EK-FC770 GW ?


----------



## funfordcobra

the for sale forum is always full of surprises


----------



## Alpina 7

Re-drew my loop... Everything's in the mail on the way, Let me know what you guys think or if i should make some changes.. Parts are 2 EK Predator 360's, Pastel Red coolant, Clear tubing, 80X240MM Reservoir all Alpha-cool fittings and drain port.. (all EK Compression fittings) will be adding a water block to my (80Ti G1 next month and upgrading my CPU water block to EK Supremacy EVO











The look im going for..


----------



## FXformat

It has begun!


----------



## FXformat

Can someone confirm that I don't need to do this step on my 6700K? The block should mount right onto the cpu with the provided standoffs right? What's all this crap here?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I got a cheap 2nd GTX770 Gainward Phantom.
> I already have one running in my rig with the EK fullblock.
> 
> Unfortunately EK is no longer building the EK-FC770 GTX GW and I can´t get one anywhere in Europe. I looked and asked every seller I could find.
> 
> If possible I want to avoid using another brand, the only one I could find for that card is the Alphacool NexXxoS GPX. But that won´t fit the looks of my PC and I want to use the EK bridge on those cards...
> 
> So here is my question, is there another EK FC block that fits the Gainward GTX 770?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help





Spoiler: Not EK!



http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/gpu-water-blocks/gpu-full-cover/15751/watercool-heatkiller-gpu-x3-gtx-770-lt



~Ceadder


----------



## Alpina 7

Ok another question.. On our predator 360's there is a sata power wire and a pwm wire... What exactly is the power wire powering? Is the the pump? Fan hub? What works without it ?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Ok another question.. On our predator 360's there is a sata power wire and a pwm wire... What exactly is the power wire powering? Is the the pump? Fan hub? What works without it ?


It is powering the splitter PCB on the end of the cooler, and as such powers all the fans and pump you connect/come connected out of the box. Think of the PCB with the power and PWM/RPM cable as a powered PWM splitter with SATA power and PWM cable.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It is powering the splitter PCB on the end of the cooler, and as such powers all the fans and pump you connect/come connected out of the box. Think of the PCB with the power and PWM/RPM cable as a powered PWM splitter with SATA power and PWM cable.


thanks bro! so if i connect the fans and or pump dire3ctly to the mother board no need for the sata power correct?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> thanks bro! so if i connect the fans and or pump dire3ctly to the mother board no need for the sata power correct?


If you have enough PWM headers to power and control them, sure. You won't even need the other cable either. Don't connect them all to the same motherboard header though.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you have enough PWM headers to power and control them, sure. You won't even need the other cable either. Don't connect them all to the same motherboard header though.


You think 3 fans per header is ok?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> You think 3 fans per header is ok?


I don't know what the start up power draw is for the F4-120ER fans, and also if your motherboard can account for it. I would personally stick to 2/header to be on the safer side.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Can someone confirm that I don't need to do this step on my 6700K? The block should mount right onto the cpu with the provided standoffs right? What's all this crap here?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just read the directions, you should use the options for Intel 115X...

Use Insert 11, and Jet Plate J2 - that should be optimal for your socket 1151 setup... Of coarse, the block may already be configured for your 1151 socket.









Be careful to orientate and assemble the block correctly, read & study the directions carefully!...

If the block is not assembled correctly, it will not function correctly... Higher temps!!

*The longer, standoff / backplate bolts, are the ones to use...* Remember to use the plastic washers between the bolt and the motherboard...

The other "Crap", is for different types of sockets...


----------



## funfordcobra

usually you don't want to pull more than 1amp per header.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Just read the directions, you should use the options for Intel 115X...
> 
> Use Insert 11, and Jet Plate J2 - that should be optimal for your socket 1151 setup... Of coarse, the block may already be configured for your 1151 socket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be careful to orientate and assemble the block correctly, read & study the directions carefully!...
> 
> If the block is not assembled correctly, it will not function correctly... Higher temps!!
> 
> *The longer, standoff / backplate bolts, are the ones to use...* Remember to use the plastic washers between the bolt and the motherboard...
> 
> The other "Crap", is for different types of sockets...


Yeah i thought so, but then directions got me all confused by listing the socket 115x in the part with the "crap" lol...this case is a nightmare, i don't have room to do the lines...will need to go get a bunch of fittings and snake around the ram and the radiator fans.


----------



## Ceadderman

You got plenty of room in there. Although your Res/Pump could stand to be raised an inch or so, to be parallel to the CPU. That would make things easier.









Oh and remove that top 360 when you're running your lines out. Once you have them set to your satisfaction, re-install the 360, remove the Res and plumb those lines. This way you can get some elbow room in there.









~Ceadder


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You got plenty of room in there. Although your Res/Pump could stand to be raised an inch or so, to be parallel to the CPU. That would make things easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and remove that top 360 when you're running your lines out. Once you have them set to your satisfaction, re-install the 360, remove the Res and plumb those lines. This way you can get some elbow room in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I cannot move the rad anywhere else, nor remove the top, this case is not your typical case...and i'm doing hardlines so everything has to sit in one place so i can measure and bend the pipes..the res cannot go any higher, it will block the outline, right now i have 1" of clearance to thread a line through that opening and to the CPU.

It's also comforting that my PSU is directly underneath the loop, so any leak, should be fun...


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Yeah i thought so, but then directions got me all confused by listing the socket 115x in the part with the "crap" lol...this case is a nightmare, i don't have room to do the lines...will need to go get a bunch of fittings and snake around the ram and the radiator fans.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> **


Looks good! Not much room, like you said...

On the block, be sure not to confuse the inlet with the outlet, The inlet is in the center of the block, and the outlet isn't!


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> usually you don't want to pull more than 1amp per header.


My predators hub stopped working and is running my fans at full speed. so now im going to have to run the pump off the board and buy a fan hub like this... you guys think 3 vardar fans are safe for one pwn hub?

something like this ..

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6J32WP1382&cm_re=fan_hub-_-9SIA6J32WP1382-_-Product


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> My predators hub stopped working and is running my fans at full speed. so now im going to have to run the pump off the board and buy a fan hub like this... you guys think 3 vardar fans are safe for one pwn hub?
> 
> something like this ..
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6J32WP1382&cm_re=fan_hub-_-9SIA6J32WP1382-_-Product


I use this one for my fans that aren't connected to my Predator.

http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter-sata.aspx


----------



## rck1984

Package arrived, time to say goodbye to my Corsair AIO


----------



## bartimaeus555

First ever build.


----------



## funfordcobra

Should I use hd or hdc fittings for a hard tube build? What Id\od tube?


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Should I use hd or hdc fittings for a hard tube build? What Id\od tube?


The HD comes in nickel, black nickel and black, while the HDC (C for colour, I imagine







) comes in various colours, so if you want a certain colour fitting you may have to get the HDC. Otherwise get the cheaper. Both come in 12mm and 16mm OD, so it depends on what you find more aesthetically pleasing. I prefer the thinner 12mm.

*Edit*: HDC are rigid compression fittings, HD are push-in


----------



## funfordcobra

Thanks


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I use this one for my fans that aren't connected to my Predator.
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter-sata.aspx


OK cool. how do you like it? so im assuming your doing push pull and have the extra fans connected to this?

they are controllable threw bios and not running full speed correct?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Should I use hd or hdc fittings for a hard tube build? What Id\od tube?


I would recommend the HDC.

The HD are a "Push-In" style of fitting while the HDC is a compression style of fitting hence the "C" at the end.

The tube is easier to insert in the HDC and you also have a bigger choice of color finish.

Tube-size wise......I like the 10/12mm over the 12/16mm by a very long shot.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I would recommend the HDC.
> 
> The HD are a "Push-In" style of fitting while the HDC is a compression style of fitting hence the "C" at the end.
> 
> The tube is easier to insert in the HDC and you also have a bigger choice of color finish.
> 
> Tube-size wise......I like the 10/12mm over the 12/16mm by a very long shot.


Check your messages sir


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Check your messages sir


Answered


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Answered


Thanks kind sir


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartimaeus555*
> 
> First ever build.


Oh damn that's pretty. How did you link each of the GPU blocks?


----------



## bartimaeus555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> Oh damn that's pretty. How did you link each of the GPU blocks?


Teeny tiny lengths of acrylic tube with fittings.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Package arrived, time to say *goodbye to my Corsair AIO*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


*Good Riddance*

Good to get rid of that, aluminum, Corsair junk







, isn't it?


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartimaeus555*
> 
> First ever build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very pretty!







Not you! The computer


----------



## bartimaeus555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Very pretty!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not you! The computer











:'(


----------



## elcr9

Just finished my build
Sorry for the photos I took it with my phone


----------



## mcspawnagain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elcr9*
> 
> Just finished my build
> Sorry for the photos I took it with my phone


really nice work !why dont you have a rig builder done so we can see the cool goodys?


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> *Good Riddance*
> 
> Good to get rid of that, aluminum, Corsair junk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , isn't it?


Sure is








Tomorrow is the day, no more AIO but real cooling lol.


----------



## funfordcobra

Can someone please point me to some UV blue petg that is 10/12 size for the 12mm fittings. I'm only able to find 1\2 inch and I believe that is 16mm.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Can someone please point me to some UV blue petg that is 10/12 size for the 12mm fittings. I'm only able to find 1\2 inch and I believe that is 16mm.


12.7 mm, as the internet would have pointed out. But it still is not going to work out. I don't know if there is colored hardline tubing from anyone other than Monsoon and Primochill, and theirs is imperial so it won't work for you.


----------



## rck1984

Not an EVO but i think the MX looks real good as well


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Not an EVO but i think the MX looks real good as well


same block i have for now till i can get an EVo, i have UV led's in mine and love it


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You got plenty of room in there. Although your Res/Pump could stand to be raised an inch or so, to be parallel to the CPU. That would make things easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and remove that top 360 when you're running your lines out. Once you have them set to your satisfaction, re-install the 360, remove the Res and plumb those lines. This way you can get some elbow room in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cannot move the rad anywhere else, nor remove the top, this case is not your typical case...and i'm doing hardlines so everything has to sit in one place so i can measure and bend the pipes..the res cannot go any higher, it will block the outline, right now i have 1" of clearance to thread a line through that opening and to the CPU.
> 
> It's also comforting that my PSU is directly underneath the loop, so any leak, should be fun...
Click to expand...

Sure you can. Pull it, and set it aside to get the bulk of your tubes done, including Res. Then pull the Res and do the runs to the Radiator. When that's done put the Res back and connect your runs.









I wasn't suggesting you move the Radiator somewhere else inside your case.









~Ceadder


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sure you can. Pull it, and set it aside to get the bulk of your tubes done, including Res. Then pull the Res and do the runs to the Radiator. When that's done put the Res back and connect your runs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wasn't suggesting you move the Radiator somewhere else inside your case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


This is what i came up with, i might change the loop later but i just wanted to finish it and get the water flowing...anyways i have the D5 Revo pump, the plug for the pump is only 2 wires so does this mean it's not PWM? I plugged it into my CPU FAN header and when i went into BIOS, i cannot choose PWM for it, it makes me choose DC, because PWM it won't pump. Right now the pump is flowing a little faster than i want, and making a slight hum...still quiet though but i want dead silence.

What do u guys think of my loop, leak testing now...


----------



## Ceadderman

^Nice.

Yup 2 wire is DC only. You can't PWM on 2 wire connections.









~Ceadder


----------



## FXformat

This pump is advertised as PWM...sorry for the noob questions this is my first time water cooling a custom loop. I plugged the plug into the W Pump on my Mobo header, which is the Gene VIII Asus. The pump seems to be running at a high RPM, and is audible, humming.

Is there a way to control the pump speed?


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> This pump is advertised as PWM...sorry for the noob questions this is my first time water cooling a custom loop. I plugged the plug into the W Pump on my Mobo header, which is the Gene VIII Asus. The pump seems to be running at a high RPM, and is audible, humming.
> 
> Is there a way to control the pump speed?


You should be able to set it in BIOS, use Speedfan, or even Asus Fan Xpert.

The humming could also be vibrations being transferred to the case.


----------



## funfordcobra

That is a pwm pump and 2 wire can provide pwm and rpm. My dual ek pumps are the same. Both are pwm but are 2 wire.


----------



## Willius

I want to add a second DDC pump to my loop, but how do I connect both of my pumps to my motherboard CPU fan header. It's an Asus Impact VII.
I do not have a fan controller.
The pumps that I have are not the same though. One is the EK DDC 3.1 and the other the EK DDC 3.2 (both are PWM controlled). But I reckon this shouldn't matter.

Any advice would be awesome!


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> This pump is advertised as PWM...sorry for the noob questions this is my first time water cooling a custom loop. I plugged the plug into the W Pump on my Mobo header, which is the Gene VIII Asus. The pump seems to be running at a high RPM, and is audible, humming.
> 
> Is there a way to control the pump speed?


just connect your pump to your cpu_fan header and you can control it just fine, you dont need the w_pump header because your pump draws power from the molex connector


----------



## funfordcobra

How do the pass through fittings work from ek? Do you just use a step drill and then they pop in?

Also, everywhere I've read d5 pwm pumps without a pwm signal hooked up run at 60%. Mine run at 10% as Akira pointed out is correct. Is this a new change?


----------



## rck1984

Installed the parts today, such a pleasure to work with








Managed to put the pump/res combo in the rear-chamber of the case to give it a cleaner look. I spray painted to nickel fittings in a grey/titanium color to match the rest of my rig, i think it looks pretty good actually.

I'm bleeding and leak testing my system now, tomorrow morning it's time to put in my hardware again.







In a few weeks, another 360 rad and a GPU block will be added as well.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> How do the pass through fittings work from ek? Do you just use a step drill and then they pop in?
> 
> *Also, everywhere I've read d5 pwm pumps without a pwm signal hooked up run at 60%. Mine run at 10% as Akira pointed out is correct. Is this a new change*?


If the 10% thing is true, then it's an EK - Only thing, and it's Bad.

It would be exactly opposite to all other PWM things with regards to PCs,

Have you ever heard of a fan, or any other PWM pump, that did not default to max rpm with no PWM control attached . . . . NO

In design, You always strive to have things fail in the safest, or least collateral damage producing manner that's feasible.

Having a pump drop to a virtually useless 10% speed if the PWM fails is just DAS.

Defaulting to 60% is actually a pretty good idea, in that you'll still have sufficient flow to not fry your gear, and won't risk aerating the coolant from excessive turbulence in the res that can come from too much rpm, . . . . which destroys the ability of the coolant to take in heat from the blocks or transfer it to the rad tubes/fins.

I'd really like to hear the 10% thing from Nikko himself, along with some explanation for it, if in fact it's true.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

I just talked to him about this, and he confirmed it's not the case. The EK D5 PWM is the same as any other D5 PWM from Laing.

I haven't experienced anything like this "10%" PWM myself but those who do- can you please remove all the wires but the tach sensor cable, and hook it up to see what the pump speed is? This is assuming you are comfortable doing this, of course.


----------



## FXformat

Per my bios, my pump speed is 4000rpm. Is that high ? This number doesn't change no matter what I do.


----------



## rck1984

Guys, I just noticed the 90 degrees alphacool fitting does look somewhat tight. The bottom of the fitting has a little more gap than the top part. Is this normal? I did notice these fittings have some rotation to them?

This water cooling is somewhat new to me, sorry if it's a stupid question.



Is this a normal thing?


----------



## nzphil

Yeah most 90's have some give in them. At least all the ones i've used. It should be fine. I try not to put much pressure on my fittings when i'm planing my loop.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzphil*
> 
> Yeah most 90's have some give in them. At least all the ones i've used. It should be fine. I try not to put much pressure on my fittings when i'm planing my loop.


There isn't really that much torque on it, it's just the strength of the rubber tubing that causes it to 'bend' a little. We're talking a half mm or so.

Nothing to be worried about then?


----------



## surfinchina

Is anybody out there with an R9 Nano waterblock?

I have exactly 20mm between the Nano pcb and the case...
Pretty sure it won't be quite enough...


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Guys, I just noticed the 90 degrees alphacool fitting does look somewhat tight. The bottom of the fitting has a little more gap than the top part. Is this normal? I did notice these fittings have some rotation to them?
> 
> This water cooling is somewhat new to me, sorry if it's a stupid question.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this a normal thing?


That 90 elbow has some play, it's normal...

I'd worry more about the compression fitting on the foreground, the rubber gasket is sandwiched between the knob and the pump housing...it should be sitting flush and not visible.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> That 90 elbow has some play, it's normal...
> 
> I'd worry more about the compression fitting on the foreground, the rubber gasket is sandwiched between the knob and the pump housing...it should be sitting flush and not visible.


Thanks for your reply,

It does look like a gasket on that picture indeed but what it really is is the wire that runs underneat the pump, the picture does make it look like its a gasket or something. I went to take a look at it once again just to be sure it isn't the gasket and I can confirm that it isn't.

Here a picture from closer by:



So it's normal that these rotary fittings have a little play in them?


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Thanks for your reply,
> 
> It does look like a gasket on that picture indeed but what it really is is the wire that runs underneat the pump, the picture does make it look like its a gasket or something. I went to take a look at it once again just to be sure it isn't the gasket and I can confirm that it isn't.
> 
> Here a picture from closer by:
> 
> 
> 
> So it's normal that these rotary fittings have a little play in them?


oh lol, thought you pinched a gasket...yeah mine has fair amount of play but never leaks...


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> oh lol, thought you pinched a gasket...yeah mine has fair amount of play but never leaks...


Hehe, sure looked like it indeed. It made me wonder actually, so I went to check just to b sure. You scared the ... out of me for a moment there








I read on the net that many people had leaks caused by rotary fittings, that's why I'm a little concerned.


----------



## Dave6531

Question for the more seasoned EK people. My buddy has the 150 x3 reservoir with the anti cyclone and the foam in it. the plan is to have the in and out on the res on the two ports side by side. Should I either take the foam out all together, leave the full thing in there or cut it so it is on the outlet side only going to the pump?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Question for the more seasoned EK people. My buddy has the 150 x3 reservoir with the anti cyclone and the foam in it. the plan is to have the in and out on the res on the two ports side by side. Should I either take the foam out all together, leave the full thing in there or cut it so it is on the outlet side only going to the pump?


I have used that exact same res in a side by side with just the anti cyclone EK badge feeding a D5 and there has been zero issues with it. The foam can just be left out.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Question for the more seasoned EK people. My buddy has the 150 x3 reservoir with the anti cyclone and the foam in it. the plan is to have the in and out on the res on the two ports side by side. Should I either take the foam out all together, leave the full thing in there or cut it so it is on the outlet side only going to the pump?


As long as you have the res upright you should have the foam in there. As long as you have the plastic piece in and foam on the out side you will get the anticyclone effect, putting it on both sides won't hurt and keep the fluid a bit more steady.


----------



## funfordcobra

I've never used the foam either with no problems.


----------



## seross69

actually if the res is above 3/4 full I dont use anything...


----------



## Dave6531

does the foam add a large amount of restriction? I have 2 liters of clear mayhems x1 fluid to add. As long as you guys are saying it wont cause any problems I'll leave it since he put it in prior to dropping it off to have me do the tubes and real work lol


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> does the foam add a large amount of restriction? I have 2 liters of clear mayhems x1 fluid to add. As long as you guys are saying it wont cause any problems I'll leave it since he put it in prior to dropping it off to have me do the tubes and real work lol


No it doesn't cause a lot of restriction. It is meant to be there, so you'll be fine.


----------



## rck1984

Leak test was positive, so my system is up and running now









I'm using a XRES 100 DDC MX 3.2 PWM pump/res combo and i'm wondering if i should put the pump on PWM or would it be better to let it run on full power (default)? Also, would something like Asus AI suite wise to use? There is a couple profiles there: Silent, Standard, Turbo and Full speed.

This custom water cooling stuff is all new to me, anyone with suggestions how i should run the pump? Thanks.


----------



## FXformat

It seems that my RPM sensor in my pump is dead, it was showing the RPM for a few hours then on last boot tweaking my fan profile, it no longer shows the RPM..it just says N/A in Asus bios. Plugging it in the CPU fan header results in an error from the start and computer won't boot. I've tried every header and none of them is showing an RPM reading, it's not the mobo because all the fans in my case is still displaying the RPM to every single header i plugged it to.

Anyone else have this issue before?


----------



## blurp

My RPM sensor has been broken for more than a year. I opened the D5 casing to see if it was not soldered anymore but everything was fine. I still can control the pump speed with speedfan to my liking according to noise level. I live with it.


----------



## funfordcobra

how do I install the pass through double female passthrough port fittings? Do I just use a step drill and the pop in?


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> how do I install the pass through double female passthrough port fittings? Do I just use a step drill and the pop in?


yes, its just that easy. they usually have the part that unscrews to go on one side to clamp together.


----------



## funfordcobra

awesome thank you. rep


----------



## snef

made some test on ram and waterblock
I think the flow path will pop a lot with a mix of sea bleu and emerald green coolant


----------



## FXformat

It's been 48 hours now, no leaks...this was my first custom loop with hard lines, i had done a few soft lines before this, and expanded an AIO.

This is a quick pic before the MonoBlock comes in and i'll redo the lines and bolt everything back up and mount this sucker on the wall, next to the 40" 4K monitor.


----------



## VSG

Looks great!


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> made some test on ram and waterblock
> I think the flow path will pop a lot with a mix of sea bleu and emerald green coolant


Every time you post an update I notice a few new things and get a ton of questions, This time it's about your fans: How did you get them that way? That paint job looks just GD perfect!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> How do the pass through fittings work from ek? Do you just use a step drill and then they pop in?
> 
> Also, everywhere I've read d5 pwm pumps without a pwm signal hooked up run at 60%. Mine run at 10% as Akira pointed out is correct. Is this a new change?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If the 10% thing is true, then it's an EK - Only thing, and it's Bad.
> 
> It would be exactly opposite to all other PWM things with regards to PCs,
> 
> Have you ever heard of a fan, or any other PWM pump, that did not default to max rpm with no PWM control attached . . . . NO
> 
> In design, You always strive to have things fail in the safest, or least collateral damage producing manner that's feasible.
> 
> Having a pump drop to a virtually useless 10% speed if the PWM fails is just DAS.
> 
> Defaulting to 60% is actually a pretty good idea, in that you'll still have sufficient flow to not fry your gear, and won't risk aerating the coolant from excessive turbulence in the res that can come from too much rpm, . . . . which destroys the ability of the coolant to take in heat from the blocks or transfer it to the rad tubes/fins.
> 
> I'd really like to hear the 10% thing from Nikko himself, along with some explanation for it, if in fact it's true.
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I just talked to him about this, and he confirmed it's not the case. The EK D5 PWM is the same as any other D5 PWM from Laing.
> 
> I haven't experienced anything like this "10%" PWM myself but those who do- can you please remove all the wires but the tach sensor cable, and hook it up to see what the pump speed is? This is assuming you are comfortable doing this, of course.


So, since I experienced it myself in the past and had a bunch of customers with the same exact issue. Do I have to assume that we all had badly made pumps???


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> So, since I experienced it myself in the past and had a bunch of customers with the same exact issue. Do I have to assume that we all had badly made pumps???


Hard to tell with the limited info available at this time. Do you still have one of those pumps? If so, knowing what the pump speed is without the PWM wire connected would help a lot.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> made some test on ram and waterblock
> I think the flow path will pop a lot with a mix of sea bleu and emerald green coolant


I got the same block, it'll be here in a few days...quick question, did you paint the waterblock? How did you do it? I want to do something similar but a light gray color to give it some contrast with the white pastel fluid.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> made some test on ram and waterblock
> I think the flow path will pop a lot with a mix of sea bleu and emerald green coolant
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the same block, it'll be here in a few days...quick question, did you paint the waterblock? How did you do it? I want to do something similar but a light gray color to give it some contrast with the white pastel fluid.
Click to expand...

I believe he used vinyl wrap. It is something I saw @ProfeZZor X do a while back on the Rampage BE blocks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Seems only natural that I should post this here. This was my mini project for the day. Only took a half hour tops. A nickel block covered with an ultra thin layer of matte black vinyl. Only the top surface that you see is covered in vinyl, not the entire block.
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1921.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1925.jpg.html


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I believe he used vinyl wrap. It is something I saw @ProfeZZor X do a while back on the Rampage BE blocks.


Hmm hope it doesn't disrupt the seals...so you'd just open the block, wrap the bottom in vinyl, then slap it back on? Then you gotta trim around the channel where the gasket would sit?


----------



## acanom

I fear the answer will be no, but it there any other backplate that fits the Gainward GTX 770 2GB?
Or is it the same like with the waterblock? only that 1 backplate for this card?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I believe he used vinyl wrap. It is something I saw @ProfeZZor X do a while back on the Rampage BE blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm hope it doesn't disrupt the seals...so you'd just open the block, wrap the bottom in vinyl, then slap it back on? Then you gotta trim around the channel where the gasket would sit?
Click to expand...

I beleive so, xacto knife to trim the edges. Hes done both paint and vinyl. He had painted a titan block black, masking off areas, which gave the idea for the vinyl and trimming it.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I got the same block, it'll be here in a few days...quick question, did you paint the waterblock? How did you do it? I want to do something similar but a light gray color to give it some contrast with the white pastel fluid.


I used white self adhesive vinyl

this part is not really a block, its only a stainless steel plate with cut out for the flow run in to block

I let the o-ring on the top acrylic

put the vinyl on the plate
put back the acrylic and oring on plate, the oring still have some grease on it
it let some mark on vinyl, I used a X-Acto to cut the trace the o-ring did

but if you want light gray, the color of the block is already light gray (stainless steel)


----------



## funfordcobra

Even though both my pumps run at 10% with no pwm signal, they run fine with it hooked up. It just makes it a pain to fill and bleed. I'm going to have to make a molex connection that has pwm hotwired to 100%.


----------



## Alpina 7

Looks like im gonna have a fun next few days!! Cant wait


----------



## Thoth420

I believe I may have the same issue with my pump/res combo. I am sorry but I don't know which model it is just that it's EK(cooling was done by a semi local shop). First week of use no issues at all running a pwm profile via Qfan (standard) then all of a sudden I started seeing halt F1 CPU fan errors on restarts first occasionally and now everytime no matter a restart, cold boot, fast boot, whatever.

Pump is barely a month of light use if that...


----------



## funfordcobra

set your cpu fan alert to ignore.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hard to tell with the limited info available at this time. Do you still have one of those pumps? If so, knowing what the pump speed is without the PWM wire connected would help a lot.


They are in current builds so I could try it yes. I will put this on my list of things to do this week


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> I believe I may have the same issue with my pump/res combo. I am sorry but I don't know which model it is just that it's EK(cooling was done by a semi local shop). First week of use no issues at all running a pwm profile via Qfan (standard) then all of a sudden I started seeing halt F1 CPU fan errors on restarts first occasionally and now everytime no matter a restart, cold boot, fast boot, whatever.
> 
> Pump is barely a month of light use if that...


Don't set it to ignore. You want a warning if something goes wrong.

Try disabling q-fan control and setting pwm control to manual at 100%. See if that fixes it.

Another option to lower the minimum rpm under the Monitor tab at to something like 200rpm. Pumps take while to start.


----------



## Thoth420

It doesn't matter if it's on ignore or 200 rpm(200rpm was the setting it was on when the issue begab to manifest. I tried a few different things and set it back to 200rpm.

By disabling QFan you mean set up a manual profile in QFan? Does that disable it? Sorry I'm still a bit of a noob. My mobo has a water pump header as well that is unused. Should I try to plug my pump into that?


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> It doesn't matter if it's on ignore or 200 rpm(200rpm was the setting it was on when the issue begab to manifest. I tried a few different things and set it back to 200rpm.
> 
> By disabling QFan you mean set up a manual profile in QFan? Does that disable it? Sorry I'm still a bit of a noob. My mobo has a water pump header as well that is unused. Should I try to plug my pump into that?


Under the monitor tab, you should have the option to disable qfan control for the CPU fan.

You can also try the water pump header.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Under the monitor tab, you should have the option to disable qfan control for the CPU fan.
> 
> You can also try the water pump header.


I will give those both a whirl. Thanks for the assistance.


----------



## enkur

Hi All,

I have the EK Supremacy EVO and I opened up the block and now cant figure out the orientation of the base (with the groves) with respect to the jet blade and cover.

Can someone post some diagram on how it should be properly oriented. The included instructions doesnt show a good diagram.

thanks,


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> How do the pass through fittings work from ek? Do you just use a step drill and then they pop in?
> 
> Also, everywhere I've read d5 pwm pumps without a pwm signal hooked up run at 60%. Mine run at 10% as Akira pointed out is correct. Is this a new change?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If the 10% thing is true, then it's an EK - Only thing, and it's Bad.
> 
> It would be exactly opposite to all other PWM things with regards to PCs,
> 
> Have you ever heard of a fan, or any other PWM pump, that did not default to max rpm with no PWM control attached . . . . NO
> 
> In design, You always strive to have things fail in the safest, or least collateral damage producing manner that's feasible.
> 
> Having a pump drop to a virtually useless 10% speed if the PWM fails is just DAS.
> 
> Defaulting to 60% is actually a pretty good idea, in that you'll still have sufficient flow to not fry your gear, and won't risk aerating the coolant from excessive turbulence in the res that can come from too much rpm, . . . . which destroys the ability of the coolant to take in heat from the blocks or transfer it to the rad tubes/fins.
> 
> I'd really like to hear the 10% thing from Nikko himself, along with some explanation for it, if in fact it's true.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I just talked to him about this, and he confirmed it's not the case. The EK D5 PWM is the same as any other D5 PWM from Laing.
> 
> I haven't experienced anything like this "10%" PWM myself but those who do- can you please remove all the wires but the tach sensor cable, and hook it up to see what the pump speed is? This is assuming you are comfortable doing this, of course.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So, since I experienced it myself in the past and had a bunch of customers with the same exact issue. Do I have to assume that we all had badly made pumps???
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> So, since I experienced it myself in the past and had a bunch of customers with the same exact issue. Do I have to assume that we all had badly made pumps???
> 
> 
> 
> Hard to tell with the limited info available at this time. Do you still have one of those pumps? If so, knowing what the pump speed is without the PWM wire connected would help a lot.
Click to expand...

One odd thing about the PWM D5 is that if the PWM line is taken to ground potential, the pump will actually stop . . . . .

If you're trying to bleed a system, with the pump connected to the mobo's CPU header, while all the PSU connections to the mobo are unplugged, the pump may not run at all, or just barely.

When you bleed, and have the 24 pin and 8 pin connectors unplugged, you have to be sure to unplug the pump's connector to the CPU fan header.

This is especially true for guys who have a second PSU that they power the pump with to bleed, where there's no common ground between the 2 PSU's.

D.


----------



## funfordcobra

Ah that was a BIG problem for me then.. I was trying to bleed with a external PSU and no PWM and I as getting about 200 rpm. Slow enough I had to disassemble the pumps and power them bare to make sure they were spinning at all. Just resting my finger on them was enough to get them to sto


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Ah that was a BIG problem for me then.. I was trying to bleed with a external PSU and no PWM and I as getting about 200 rpm. Slow enough I had to disassemble the pumps and power them bare to make sure they were spinning at all. Just resting my finger on them was enough to get them to sto


If you had the pump's tach/PWM connector on the mobo's CPU header, while trying to run the pump from a second PSU, that's pretty much what everyone else with a similar hookup got.

Will be interesting to see if that's the scenario that akira reports as well.

D.


----------



## funfordcobra

Yea I ended up having to fill and bleed with main power on my rig with everything else hooked up too. It was very nerve racking. I thought I got two bad pumps but I tended to think it was user error because the odds of getting two bad pumps ar


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> I believe I may have the same issue with my pump/res combo. I am sorry but I don't know which model it is just that it's EK(cooling was done by a semi local shop). First week of use no issues at all running a pwm profile via Qfan (standard) then all of a sudden I started seeing halt F1 CPU fan errors on restarts first occasionally and now everytime no matter a restart, cold boot, fast boot, whatever.
> 
> Pump is barely a month of light use if that...


I gather that this is an ASUS mobo? That is a known situation when connecting a pump PWM line to the CPU fan header. As mentioned, you can disable that warning, I just put my pump PWM line on another fan header - any other header (just not the second CPU fan) will work.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I gather that this is an ASUS mobo? That is a known situation when connecting a pump PWM line to the CPU fan header. As mentioned, you can disable that warning, I just put my pump PWM line on another fan header - any other header (just not the second CPU fan) will work.


Yes it is an ASUS board, Z170 Deluxe. Thanks sir, will try another header.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

It's something to do with the pump not reporting the PWM speed fast enough, so it triggers the low limit (less than 200 RPM) warning. It'll do it if you try to power the mobo up without any fan connected to the CPU FAN header, also. So you can hook a fan up, go into BIOS, disable the low alarm, reboot, disconnect the fan. Honestly, most guys just disable to low speed warning - I already had mine up and running on a different header before learning of that fix and just didn't feel like messing with it. I did have fans connected to the CPU FAN header, though.


----------



## funfordcobra

and its just a warning. if there is a problem your PC will always shut down when the CPU gets to TJ.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> and its just a warning. if there is a problem your PC will always shut down when the CPU gets to TJ.


I know that much I just want to avoid any damage as this was very expensive and it is warrantied so if there is a defect be it mobo or pump it can be rectified with replacement parts at no extra cost. I also am a bit OCD and this is bothersome as it didn't occur until after a week of heavy use.


----------



## Kutalion

Can i join the club, pretty pls?


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> It doesn't matter if it's on ignore or 200 rpm(200rpm was the setting it was on when the issue begab to manifest. I tried a few different things and set it back to 200rpm.
> 
> By disabling QFan you mean set up a manual profile in QFan? Does that disable it? Sorry I'm still a bit of a noob. My mobo has a water pump header as well that is unused. Should I try to plug my pump into that?


Pretty sure your RPM tacho is dead, the pump is not sending any RPM signal to the CPU header, and therefore your mobo thinks your fan is dead. Setting the low speed limit on ignore will still yield the same problem, plug your water pump plug into the chasis fan, and see if the Monitor tab on your bios will monitor the RPM. If it doesn't, then it's dead. You can plug it to any header and it'll work, doesn't have to be the CPU fan header. Good luck.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

I have one D5 pump like that, with dead RPM readout circuit. Normal pump spins pretty fast (compared to fans) even at the lowest PWM setting, so it won't trigger a warning.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Pretty sure your RPM tacho is dead, the pump is not sending any RPM signal to the CPU header, and therefore your mobo thinks your fan is dead. Setting the low speed limit on ignore will still yield the same problem, plug your water pump plug into the chasis fan, and see if the Monitor tab on your bios will monitor the RPM. If it doesn't, then it's dead. You can plug it to any header and it'll work, doesn't have to be the CPU fan header. Good luck.


That is pretty much what my gut was telling me. I will give that a try. Thanks FX


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Yeah, but there are a lot of pumps out there that are working and still trigger the warning. Like mine, for example. Google "Asus CPU Fan error Press F1", it's very common, especially with AIO pumps.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Yeah, but there are a lot of pumps out there that are working and still trigger the warning. Like mine, for example. Google "Asus CPU Fan error Press F1", it's very common, especially with AIO pumps.


I don't discount that at all in fact it's made this issue more of a pain as that is the knee jerk reaction. The reason I suspect something malfunctioned is because the first week this issue was non existent.


----------



## Alpina 7

Worked on it last night for about 5 hours. My backes killing me, fingers raw and I'm tired but it's almost done. ??????
I've had it running for 12 hours now no leaks so in a few hours I'm going to drain it and fill it with pastel Fluid then I'm done. Been a hell of a night and those damn rotary compression fittings are a pain in the ass to remove. Esp without the right sized Allen key. But I got it done...

Here is a little sneak peek. I'll post a picture of the finished product tonight. ??


----------



## Trito

Hey guys.
Has anyone done a build with Supremacy EVO Full Nickel CSQ block? Want to see how it looks in a real build.
I am trying to figure out either to go with black CSQ and black fittings or full nickel CSQ and nickel fittings. Black looks really nice but I think nickel could add nice pop to the whole build.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

@Alpina 7 - You've got some good radiator space in there. Are you planning on adding the GPU into the loop?


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Hey guys.
> Has anyone done a build with Supremacy EVO Full Nickel CSQ block? Want to see how it looks in a real build.
> I am trying to figure out either to go with black CSQ and black fittings or full nickel CSQ and nickel fittings. Black looks really nice but I think nickel could add nice pop to the whole build.


I think nickel fittings go well with dark tube/fluid, but I wouldnt have nickel block and fittings.

What does your rig look like atm?


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> @Alpina 7 - You've got some good radiator space in there. Are you planning on adding the GPU into the loop?


Thanks. Yup next mod will be all black compression fittings and full block for the GPU ??

But for now just a whole bunch of cooking for my CPU


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> I think nickel fittings go well with dark tube/fluid, but I wouldnt have nickel block and fittings.
> 
> What does your rig look like atm?


It's 250D. Been ordering all kinds of parts for the past few weeks. Today should get my radiator, tubing, liquid and some other stuff. I had decided on going with black CSQ cpu block, black fittings and blood red liquid however I saw how damn good nickel gpu backplates look and I'm worried that if I go with black cpu block nickel back plate would not fit in.









E: It's primochill clear tubing btw.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> It's 250D. Been ordering all kinds of parts for the past few weeks. Today should get my radiator, tubing, liquid and some other stuff. I had decided on going with black CSQ cpu block, black fittings and blood red liquid however I saw how damn good nickel gpu backplates look and I'm worried that if I go with black cpu block nickel back plate would not fit in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> E: It's primochill clear tubing btw.


If you're getting a nickel back plate I think nickel fittigns with black block would look great! (Thats what I have but the non-CSQ supremacy cpu block)

Having said that if you already have bought the black fittings, then dont worry they will look great too! Post pics of your final build!


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> If you're getting a nickel back plate I think nickel fittigns with black block would look great! (Thats what I have but the non-CSQ supremacy cpu block)
> 
> Having said that if you already have bought the black fittings, then dont worry they will look great too! Post pics of your final build!


Mind sharing a picture?
I have ordered few black ones but I could use them with pump and radiator.
Idea is to use two 45 degree fittings going out of the block one in each direction. If I would go with nickel block and nickel 45 fittings but black compression fittings on top of 45 how do you think that would look? Or black block, black 45 and nickel compression fittings. Too many options with water cooling









Basic idea of how would it look from internet PIC


----------



## Alpina 7

orked on it last night for about 5 hours. My backes killing me, fingers raw and I'm tired but it's almost done. ??????
I've had it running for 12 hours now no leaks so in a few hours I'm going to drain it and fill it with pastel Fluid then I'm done. Been a hell of a night and those damn rotary compression fittings are a pain in the ass to remove. Esp without the right sized Allen key. But I got it done...


----------



## zu903

finished my first loop over the weekend. Mostly ek parts did a mix of the pastel white and blue for the color. Thinking about ordering some white ek vardars to replace the sp120s, two of them are old and the bearings are going out. Any of you guys using the vardars and how do you like them.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zu903*
> 
> finished my first loop over the weekend. Mostly ek parts did a mix of the pastel white and blue for the color. Thinking about ordering some white ek vardars to replace the sp120s, two of them are old and the bearings are going out. Any of you guys using the vardars and how do you like them.


I'm using Vardar F3's and love them! People have complained about squeal from them (mainly the ER's I think) but I have no problems with mine.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zu903*
> 
> finished my first loop over the weekend. Mostly ek parts did a mix of the pastel white and blue for the color. Thinking about ordering some white ek vardars to replace the sp120s, two of them are old and the bearings are going out. Any of you guys using the vardars and how do you like them.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using Vardar F3's and love them! People have complained about squeal from them (mainly the ER's I think) but I have no problems with mine.
Click to expand...

Me too. Love mine, quiet when low, but a tornado when let loose.


----------



## funfordcobra

you should hear 18 Vardar f5s at 3k rpm.. lol


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> you should hear 18 Vardar f5s at 3k rpm.. lol


Can't be any louder than a Bell 412 firing up its engines







Oh wait, Vardars don't have that shrill (yet seductive) turbine whine to them they just push air and do their job.

I'm guessing just a bit noisy though, but man I bet they cool something terrific.


----------



## acanom

Has anyone of you used liquid metal between CPU and EK Block and GPU and EK Blocks?

Can this be done without a problem? (of course with beeing careful with transistors etc)

Or what´s your take on that?

Especially with the GPUs?

I have it applied between the CPU die and heatspreader atm but I still got plenty left and I´m redoing my loop.

So I thought why not.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Has anyone of you used liquid metal between CPU and EK Block and GPU and EK Blocks?
> 
> Can this be done without a problem? (of course with beeing careful with transistors etc)
> 
> Or what´s your take on that?
> 
> Escpecially with the GPUs?
> 
> I have it applied between the CPU die and heatspreader atm but I still got plenty left and I´m redoing my loop.
> 
> So I thought why not.


possible but unnecessary on GPUs, temps with a proper loop are never going to get close to throttle with traditional TIM. If you have a nickel plated block, it is just fine to use liquid metal...just no contact with copper (stains it) or aluminum ( eats it for breakfast).

EK makes a great naked mount add on kit for very little cost. If you are considering going that far, might consider going all the way.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Has anyone of you used liquid metal between CPU and EK Block and GPU and EK Blocks?
> 
> Can this be done without a problem? (of course with beeing careful with transistors etc)
> 
> Or what´s your take on that?
> 
> Especially with the GPUs?
> 
> I have it applied between the CPU die and heatspreader atm but I still got plenty left and I´m redoing my loop.
> 
> So I thought why not.


I used the liquid metal pads on my GPUs. Worked great! They are a little fragile, but as long as you don't bend or tear them you are good. Basically don't take them out of the package until you have everything else for the blocks installed. I never see temps above 40C.

As for the CPU, the liquid metal ultra made little difference between the IHS and the EK block, but made a huge difference when I delided my CPU and put it between the die and the IHS. so unless you are delidding, dont waste your time.

Edit: just saw you allready delidded. I don't think it will make a big difference or else the delid guides would recommend that. I ended up lapping my IHS to a mirror finish and used Gelid GC extreme.


----------



## acanom

Ok, thank you both!

I have already delidded 2 years agon, that´s why I´m reseating and redoing my loop.
I used Liquid Ultra between IHS and die and Gelid Extreme between IHS and block, like recommended.

But the thought was still in my head to use it between IHS and Block, too









I already have the Liquid Ultra,all my blocks are nickel, so I´m trying it for GPU and block.

I wouldn´t care if I didn´t have the paste lying around and if I didn´t have to redo the loop...but when I´m already taking averything apart for cleaning I can do a little experiment.

Again thank you!


----------



## zerophase

Is it safe to use mayhems cleaning kit with EK products, or their pastel coolants?


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Is it safe to use mayhems cleaning kit with EK products, or their pastel coolants?


if im not mistaken EK's pastel coolants are Product of Mayhem's


----------



## zerophase

I just want to make sure I won't void my warranty by running Mayhem's cleaning solution through my loop, and replacing EK's dye with Mayhem's blood red pastel.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I just want to make sure I won't void my warranty by running Mayhem's cleaning solution through my loop, and replacing EK's dye with Mayhem's blood red pastel.


you wont void the warranty


----------



## zerophase

I just want to double check that Mayhem's Blitz Pro is safe to run through a loop with EK-CoolStream XE, EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition, EK-FB Kit Asus R5E Waterblock - Nickel + Acetal , EK-Dual DDC 3.2 PWM X-TOP, EK-RES X3 250 Reservoir, Bitspower fittings, and EK fittings.


----------



## zu903

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> I'm using Vardar F3's and love them! People have complained about squeal from them (mainly the ER's I think) but I have no problems with mine.


thanks i ordered one today gonna get the other 2 next week. Spent to much money finishing my loop over the weekend


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zu903*
> 
> thanks i ordered one today gonna get the other 2 next week. Spent to much money finishing my loop over the weekend


Haha, I know how that feels, and it never stops! Post some pics when done!


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Is it safe to use mayhems cleaning kit with EK products, or their pastel coolants?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> if im not mistaken EK's pastel coolants are Product of Mayhem's


You are correct Sir, EK's Pastel is Mayhem's Pastel. Says produced by Mayhem's in the UK right on the product page.
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ekoolant-pastel-white-concentrate-250ml


----------



## Dave6531

Just completed this build, i used my idea from my own build with the sleeved tubing and have to say it turned out well. Ek 240 rad in frontand 360 up top.
I7 6700k, evga 980ti, 16gb corsair lpx. Not bad little setup the owner was very happy.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Just completed this build, i used my idea from my own build with the sleeved tubing and have to say it turned out well. Ek 240 rad in frontand 360 up top.


Impressive looking.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I just want to double check that Mayhem's Blitz Pro is safe to run through a loop with EK-CoolStream XE, EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition, EK-FB Kit Asus R5E Waterblock - Nickel + Acetal , EK-Dual DDC 3.2 PWM X-TOP, EK-RES X3 250 Reservoir, Bitspower fittings, and EK fittings.


Do not, run Mayhems Part 1 through your loop - It's for Radiators only...

You can put Part 2 through your system though...

Please read the directions, before using Mayhems Blitz Pro... At least a couple of times...


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

little make over with nickel titan-X backplate and 250mm x3 reservoir:


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

So I uninstalled and reinstalled the nickel plated back plate, my card was squealing like there was no tomorrow both times in 3dmark11. Reinstalled my old black ek back plate, no squealing. The problem is that the nickel one is nickel plated at the stand offs where there needs to be a ground to the pcb.

I could sand down the stand offs to get to metal, that might work. Kind of thinking the black one looks better anyways.


----------



## Touge180SX

Still not complete, but getting close. Rig is up and running and temps under full load never hit 40C on both CPU and GPU. Ambient in the room is 30C or so (wifey is always cold!). Thought I would post up these pics for now and post completed when all the little stuff I want to do is done.

EK Supremacy EVO - EK970 TFX - EK Coolstream PE 480 - Asus Maximus VIII Formula w/ integrated EK block - EK CSQ rotaries - EK Vardar F3's x 8


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Still not complete, but getting close.


Looking great...!

Quick question regarding the Formula VIII.... Does the very top G1/4" port on the VRM cooling block essentially line up dead centre with regards to the CPU's vertical centre line or is it offset slightly? - a tad too hard to tell from various photos that I have seen.

I don't have my Formula VIII as yet and was curious as to whether I can connect a dead straight hardline connection from the VRM block down to the CPU (providing I rotate the CPU block 90 degrees as compared to yours).

Thanks...


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Looking great...!
> 
> Quick question regarding the Formula VIII.... Does the very top G1/4" port on the VRM cooling block essentially line up dead centre with regards to the CPU's vertical centre line or is it offset slightly? - a tad too hard to tell from various photos that I have seen.
> 
> I don't have my Formula VIII as yet and was curious as to whether I can connect a dead straight hardline connection from the VRM block down to the CPU (providing I rotate the CPU block 90 degrees as compared to yours).
> 
> Thanks...


Thanks Costas! Following your build closely!

Just took a look at mine (tried to get a pic for you but tubing is in the way) but it looks like the top VRM port is in a perfect line with the center of the CPU block.

Just a heads up also, I had to use a small extender for my compression fitting on the top VRM port because the plastic VRM cover is taller than the port. Here is a pic for reference:


This is probably my only compliant with this board, otherwise it's perfect!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Still not complete, but getting close. Rig is up and running and temps under full load never hit 40C on both CPU and GPU. Ambient in the room is 30C or so (wifey is always cold!). Thought I would post up these pics for now and post completed when all the little stuff I want to do is done.
> 
> EK Supremacy EVO - EK970 TFX - EK Coolstream PE 480 - Asus Maximus VIII Formula w/ integrated EK block - EK CSQ rotaries - EK Vardar F3's x 8
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Maybe its just me, but I'm not quite sure how that drain port is supposed to work...


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> it looks like the top VRM port is in a perfect line with the center of the CPU block.
> 
> Just a heads up also, I had to use a small extender for my compression fitting on the top VRM port because the plastic VRM cover is taller than the port.


Thanks for that - I'll keep in mind the extender issue...


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Maybe its just me, but I'm not quite sure how that drain port is supposed to work...


If your talking about the valve, that's not a drain port. I fill from the top of the reservoir so that's to block the return. Not the most ideal and will definitely make some changes next rebuild.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Maybe its just me, but I'm not quite sure how that drain port is supposed to work...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your talking about the valve, that's not a drain port. I fill from the top of the reservoir so that's to block the return. Not the most ideal and will definitely make some changes next rebuild.
Click to expand...

Forgive me please, but still confused, what return are you blocking? Why would coolant try to defy gravity and shoot out the top of the res port? Also, the MMRS has a specific drain/fill port top you can get in case you weren't aware.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Forgive me please, but still confused, what return are you blocking? Why would coolant try to defy gravity and shoot out the top of the res port? Also, the MMRS has a specific drain/fill port top you can get in case you weren't aware.


Haha, yeah I know, I got the wrong top. That is my return so when I fill i close the valve then shutdown the pump, remove that top hose and fill from that same port. This is all just temporary until a rebuild as with the MMRS I cant just change tops without draining everything.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Forgive me please, but still confused, what return are you blocking? Why would coolant try to defy gravity and shoot out the top of the res port? Also, the MMRS has a specific drain/fill port top you can get in case you weren't aware.
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, yeah I know, I got the wrong top. That is my return so when I fill i close the valve then shutdown the pump, remove that top hose and fill from that same port. This is all just temporary until a rebuild as with the MMRS I cant just change tops without draining everything.
Click to expand...

Ah, I'm a little slow but the light bulb eventually goes off, I gotcha now, thanks for the clarification.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Ah, I'm a little slow but the light bulb eventually goes off, I gotcha now, thanks for the clarification.


Haha, I know what you mean! The Navy has done a number on my memory and brain! I always build and forget parts and being stationed in Japan, I really don't have the patience to wait so I just build and make a list of things to fix next rebuild.


----------



## enkur

So on suggestion of some board members I re-worked my loop. much much better I think... thanks for the suggestions folks.

Before:


After:


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> So on suggestion of some board members I re-worked my loop. much much better I think... thanks for the suggestions folks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> After:


NICE! Personally not a fan of the QDC's on the rads but looking good! I would flip the top rad to exhaust and the AF fan as intake.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> So on suggestion of some board members I re-worked my loop. much much better I think... thanks for the suggestions folks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NICE! Personally not a fan of the QDC's on the rads but looking good! I would flip the top rad to exhaust and the AF fan as intake.
Click to expand...

I was thinking the exact opposite, that is a nice way to incorporate QDCs. Most of the time they look out of place, but they blend really well here imo. Gotta do something with those blue rings though...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I was thinking the exact opposite, that is a nice way to incorporate QDCs. Most of the time they look out of place, but they blend really well here imo. Gotta do something with those blue rings though...


Yeah that's a point on the blue rings lol but I can't say I agree with you on QDC's but it's down to preference, if they where matte black maybe that would look a lot better.


----------



## enkur

I misplaced the red ones for those two fans and cant find them. Any ideas where to get some replacement ones?

I left the qdc in place because its easier to disconnect the radiators when flushing the loop. I am done spending more money on this loop.. it has costed me atleast twice what I intended to spend!!! LOL
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I was thinking the exact opposite, that is a nice way to incorporate QDCs. Most of the time they look out of place, but they blend really well here imo. Gotta do something with those blue rings though...


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> So on suggestion of some board members I re-worked my loop. much much better I think... thanks for the suggestions


Looks great, amazing improvement! As for the fan rings, ask on here. Lots of members have them sitting around and will send them too you for just the shipping cost.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> I misplaced the red ones for those two fans and cant find them. Any ideas where to get some replacement ones?
> 
> I left the qdc in place because its easier to disconnect the radiators when flushing the loop. I am done spending more money on this loop.. it has costed me atleast twice what I intended to spend!!! LOL


I have some 120 rings doing nothing, you're welcome to have them but if you're in the US then I should probably be a last resort as shipping might cost a pretty penny. If you contact corsair support they'll sell you some maybe? Or send them for free?

To drain my loops I just sit my case on it's rear then undo the front rad port and put a fitting with tube on it, tip, done or my new loop has a drain port with a plug on it, undo plug, loop drains easily.


----------



## enkur

Wow almost identical setup









yeah I am in the US. no worries Ill try to get hold of Corsair and if that doesnt work I can always pick up some new fans... cant have enough spare fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I have some 120 rings doing nothing, you're welcome to have them but if you're in the US then I should probably be a last resort as shipping might cost a pretty penny. If you contact corsair support they'll sell you some maybe? Or send them for free?
> 
> To drain my loops I just sit my case on it's rear then undo the front rad port and put a fitting with tube on it, tip, done or my new loop has a drain port with a plug on it, undo plug, loop drains easily.


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

I am getting ready to rebuild my loop after a "cat"astrophic failure a year ago, would like to know if a single 360 res will suffice for cpu & gpu cooling with no OC, or should I just go ahead and add a single 140mm single rad? On a budget, ya know? My plan is to eventually replace all the clear tubing with 15mm heating and ac soft copper. Please advise.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardheadedMurphy*
> 
> I am getting ready to rebuild my loop after a "cat"astrophic failure a year ago, would like to know if a single 360 res will suffice for cpu & gpu cooling with no OC, or should I just go ahead and add a single 140mm single rad? On a budget, ya know? My plan is to eventually replace all the clear tubing with 15mm heating and ac soft copper. Please advise.


Lol your cat? What did they do? for a simple non overclocked loop the 360mm will do perfectly fine but personally I like to fit as much radiator space as possible so I can turn the fans down.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Wow almost identical setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah I am in the US. no worries Ill try to get hold of Corsair and if that doesnt work I can always pick up some new fans... cant have enough spare fans.


True! I'm falling foul of that at the moment, I need more fans and I've no cash until April (student loans...) I have NF-F12's on the front 360mm rad and I will be doing a mod to the front bezel like MNPCTech did to the define S. My fans are push behind the bezel for the front.


----------



## mcspawnagain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardheadedMurphy*
> 
> I am getting ready to rebuild my loop after a "cat"astrophic failure a year ago, would like to know if a single 360 res will suffice for cpu & gpu cooling with no OC, or should I just go ahead and add a single 140mm single rad? On a budget, ya know? My plan is to eventually replace all the clear tubing with 15mm heating and ac soft copper. Please advise.


i have had custom loops before and i would recommend against water if your not OC'd


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardheadedMurphy*
> 
> I am getting ready to rebuild my loop after a "cat"astrophic failure a year ago, would like to know if a single 360 res will suffice for cpu & gpu cooling with no OC, or should I just go ahead and add a single 140mm single rad? On a budget, ya know? My plan is to eventually replace all the clear tubing with 15mm heating and ac soft copper. Please advise.


Definitely get other opinions but I think that should be plenty with no OC and good fans. I am running a EK PE 480 with CPU - GPU - VRM with great temps!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcspawnagain*
> 
> i have had custom loops before and i would recommend against water if your not OC'd


You can still custom loop if you're not overclocking, just means better temps and noise levels.


----------



## mcspawnagain

that is correct its just not necessary


----------



## enkur

How will changing the fan setup help?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> NICE! Personally not a fan of the QDC's on the rads but looking good! I would flip the top rad to exhaust and the AF fan as intake.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcspawnagain*
> 
> i have had custom loops before and i would recommend against water if your not OC'd


You must've did a bad job. Mine is 3+ years old and not a single leak, temps are well below air cooled, and dead silent. I could not go back to air because the air coolers are hideous and it won't even fit in my case.

It is a hassle when u change components, but it gives me a chance to clean my loop and do a seals checkup and maintenance.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> How will changing the fan setup help?


You have loads of positive pressure with 4x 120mm fans pushing air in but only a single 140mm AF fan to take all that air out. Unless you want to have that 140mm at a higher rpm so you can balance it out a bit, I normally have my rigs slightly more positive but not full on. Maybe I'm missing a trick? Are your temps much better having them both as intake and having mega positive pressure in your case?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcspawnagain*
> 
> i have had custom loops before and i would recommend against water if your not OC'd


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcspawnagain*
> 
> that is correct its just not necessary


Please stop advocating against watercooling in this club. Your opinions are not helping answer his question.


----------



## mcspawnagain

i apologies for any offence


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mcspawnagain*
> 
> i have had custom loops before and i would recommend against water if your not OC'd
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mcspawnagain*
> 
> that is correct its just not necessary
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Please stop advocating against watercooling in this club. Your opinions are not helping answer his question.
Click to expand...

Ninja'd!


----------



## mcspawnagain

lol


----------



## Thoth420

Am I the only one that still wants to hear the cat story...?


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Am I the only one that still wants to hear the cat story...?


No, you aren't... I'd like to hear it too!


----------



## FXformat

What have we here?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Am I the only one that still wants to hear the cat story...?


No lol, I wan't to know as my gf loves cats so I want to urm, learn from mistakes.


----------



## mcspawnagain

any one that hates cats doesn't know how to cook them right including radiators!


----------



## superstition222

Most cats have better personalities than people and thus make better company.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mcspawnagain*
> 
> i have had custom loops before and i would recommend against water if your not OC'd
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mcspawnagain*
> 
> that is correct its just not necessary
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Please stop advocating against watercooling in this club. Your opinions are not helping answer his question.
Click to expand...

Ninja'd!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Most cats have better personalities than people and thus make better company.


That's the problem with cats is that they HAVE personalities, AND attitudes!


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> I'm using Vardar F3's and love them! People have complained about squeal from them (mainly the ER's I think) but I have no problems with mine.


Can confirm the ERs have some sort of audible sound that my ears hate







I'd stay away from those models to see if they get revised.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> Can confirm the ERs have some sort of audible sound that my ears hate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd stay away from those models to see if they get revised.


I run 4 of mine less than a meter away from my head (on desk), and ca only hear the light whisper of air passing through the 2 rads I have, have you tried/are you able to run them slower?

Also whats all this about cats?


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> I run 4 of mine less than a meter away from my head (on desk), and ca only hear the light whisper of air passing through the 2 rads I have, have you tried/are you able to run them slower?
> 
> Also whats all this about cats?


8 in push/pull @ pretty much minimum speed


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

To Answer your question
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> 
> 
> Also whats all this about cats?
Click to expand...

When my Gaming PC was in a different build\case, I had it open on my desk while I was stability testing an OC. My dog got it in her head that my cat was stealing her food (he was and thinks hes a dog) chased him into my work area, who then without looking jumped onto my desk and into my tower, knocking it over and pulling the main in out of cpu block in the process. It killed my ROG Maximus III mobo.

Plus side, Trouble doesnt go near a computer anymore


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardheadedMurphy*
> 
> To Answer your question
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> 
> 
> Also whats all this about cats?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> When my Gaming PC was in a different build\case, I had it open on my desk while I was stability testing an OC. My dog got it in her head that my cat was stealing her food (he was and thinks hes a dog) chased him into my work area, who then without looking jumped onto my desk and into my tower, knocking it over and pulling the main in out of cpu block in the process. It killed my ROG Maximus III mobo.
> 
> Plus side, Trouble doesnt go near a computer anymore
Click to expand...

That'll learn ya! Good dog, good dog... Get the cat, get the cat!!! The cat has got to go...


----------



## enkur

No I havent paid too much attention to air pressure. I guess it makes sense that I have all these intakes and only one exhaust.
Ill try out your suggestion and see how it goes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> You have loads of positive pressure with 4x 120mm fans pushing air in but only a single 140mm AF fan to take all that air out. Unless you want to have that 140mm at a higher rpm so you can balance it out a bit, I normally have my rigs slightly more positive but not full on. Maybe I'm missing a trick? Are your temps much better having them both as intake and having mega positive pressure in your case?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> No I havent paid too much attention to air pressure. I guess it makes sense that I have all these intakes and only one exhaust.
> Ill try out your suggestion and see how it goes.


Please let me know your findings, I might try your method too and see how it goes.


----------



## Daggi

Hi
Is there anyone else having an issue with EK AF 90 degree fittings?
I have six fittings that's not 90, but more like 86 degrees


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hi
> Is there anyone else having an issue with EK AF 90 degree fittings?
> I have six fittings that's not 90, but more like 86 degrees.


Seen this before where a guy on a Downunder forum here in Aus struck the same issue a few months ago.

We couldn't quite work out why some of his fittings would not line up perfectly square - at first we thought that the reservoir ports the fittings were screwed into were not quite dead straight but on closer inspection the fittings were the problem.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Seen this before where a guy on a Downunder forum here in Aus struck the same issue a few months ago.
> 
> We couldn't quite work out why some of his fittings would not line up perfectly square - at first we thought that the reservoir ports the fittings were screwed into were not quite dead straight but on closer inspection the fittings were the problem.


I had some trouble because it didn't line up as i wanted with the wrong angles and it didn't look good at all. Also two of the fittings where very loose in the rotary connection. I'll buy some new 90 degrees fittings, but not EK one's. It's a shame because I think all the EK-AF fittings look great


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I had some trouble because it didn't line up as i wanted with the wrong angles and it didn't look good at all. Also two of the fittings where very loose in the rotary connection. I'll buy some new 90 degrees fittings, but not EK one's. It's a shame because I think all the EK-AF fittings look great


I wish the EK CSQ fittings weren't end of life, I love mine and have no issues at all!


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> I wish the EK CSQ fittings weren't end of life, I love mine and have no issues at all!


I like the 90 degree CSQ fittings but the 45 degree is not my kind


----------



## HexagonRabbit

So I've been working on my build for a while. I've got a LOT of EK stuff (pump, fittings, GPU water block, CPU water block...etc.) and for christmas, the wife got me the 480XE.
Well after getting it together and finished a few days ago, everything seemed fine.
Well about an hour and a half ago the water level in my res dropped about an inch. I thought it was air trapped in the radiator but watched it anyway. 3-5 minutes later, I hear 1....then 2 fans start making a buzzing noise. I shut it off and start to investigate. I noticed a red puddle on the foot of my case. I unplugged everything and rushed to the kitchen table to find the source.

I suspected it was the rad and immediately thought that I had made a screw puncture and it was just now starting to leak.

After getting the back fans off, none of the rails or tubes were damaged. There is what appears to be a source from the middle of the rad where a leak started and sprayed coolant all over.







Its like a rail in the middle busted.
Has this happened to anyone else? I cant even see a hole as it "seems" deep.
Now I"m down a rad and possibly a couple fans (even though the HP fractals arent that great).
I got the rad from PPCs.

The blood red ek coolant stains everything it touches including the white sleeving that I had done.
Sorry if I sound abrasive but I am wicked pissed right now.

::edit:: the middle of the rad doesnt have any fin damage. Thats just the sun's reflection off of the coolant.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> So.


Unlucky buddy, I'd try sending a PM to Akira or any of the other EK reps, the customer support on the EK website got back to me within a few hours and just wanted proof of purchase from a retailer from me to look into my issues.


----------



## JCArch

I'm in the process of finishing my first custom loop build, which is *almost* exclusively EK based in my Ncase M1. I'm curious if this loop, with the exception of being a pain in the ass to fill, will work out okay. I'll come back with better pictures once it's finished.

I've loved checking out all the builds in here as I've chipped away at mine. I'm excited to be part of the club!


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hi
> Is there anyone else having an issue with EK AF 90 degree fittings?
> I have six fittings that's not 90, but more like 86 degrees


i was told they changed 90 fitting suppliers recently. Alot of complaints about loose and leaking 90s.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> i was told they changed 90 fitting suppliers recently. Alot of complaints about loose and leaking 90s.


I am terrified of my EK 90's. If they leak you can usually massage the tubing to get them to stop and then pray they never move again. If using rigid tubing you are screwed.


----------



## FXformat

The EK 90s suck bunghole...you can already tell they're crap when they spin wayyy too easily. I had 2 of mine leaked and thank god i caught it before it was detrimental to my system. Too bad i have so many and i haven't had a chance to swap them out for something else. Next time i drain my loop i'll swap all of them out, i heard they stopped making it or issuing recalls because there was a bad batch of it...which i've gotten


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> The EK 90s suck bunghole...you can already tell they're crap when they spin wayyy too easily. I had 2 of mine leaked and thank god i caught it before it was detrimental to my system. Too bad i have so many and i haven't had a chance to swap them out for something else. Next time i drain my loop i'll swap all of them out, i heard they stopped making it or issuing recalls because there was a bad batch of it...which i've gotten


It seems like it, because I need 1 more to complete my build and everywhere I have checked is out of stock indefinitely.


----------



## FXformat

EK Monoblock for Asus Gene, those two 90's are EK and i keep an eye on it like a hawk.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> EK Monoblock for Asus Gene, those two 90's are EK and i keep an eye on it like a hawk.


Those mono blocks look so damn nice!


----------



## ITAngel

My first EK build, still working on it need a T shape fitting to put on the lower end of the rad so i can put a drain plug there.


----------



## enkur

I ran a few benchmark to stress the system and honestly I cant tell any difference. I am glad I had those qdc on the rad as it was a pain to change out the fans on the rad otherwise.

Anyways I will continue to keep an eye out on the temps. My max fan rpms on the system is around 800 when on full load and even going to full speed the temps remained the same although the noise was too much for my silent setup that I am shooting for.
The idle CPU temp is around 32C and the full load is around 62C according to ASUS AI suite.
My GPU temps idle around 30C and full load is around 50C (loving the GPU temps).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Please let me know your findings, I might try your method too and see how it goes.


----------



## enkur

where is your pump?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> My first EK build, still working on it need a T shape fitting to put on the lower end of the rad so i can put a drain plug there.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> My first EK build, still working on it need a T shape fitting to put on the lower end of the rad so i can put a drain plug there.


----------



## ITAngel

Sorry got distracted and forgot to post it.


----------



## funfordcobra

I have acouple 90s that are good but I had to replace a lot of them with bitspower.


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> I wish the EK CSQ fittings weren't end of life, I love mine and have no issues at all!


I can't understand at all why they are EOL.
They where so much better looking then the round ones. And with the EK logo <3

I have quiet a few of them in my build and never had an issue with them


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> I can't understand at all why they are EOL.
> They where so much better looking then the round ones. And with the EK logo <3
> 
> I have quiet a few of them in my build and never had an issue with them


I agree! The CSQ fittings look amazing! I have 90's x4 and 45 x1 and they all move perfectly with 0 leaks. EK, bring back the CSQ's!!


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> I agree! The CSQ fittings look amazing! I have 90's x4 and 45 x1 and they all move perfectly with 0 leaks. EK, bring back the CSQ's!!


Hell yeah! Let's start a petition


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Hell yeah! Let's start a petition


I'm actually quite lucky. Here in Japan watercooling is not that big and my favorite store here has over 70 90 degree CSQ fittings in stock!


----------



## TheEnfusedBird

My First Ek Build






feed back is welcome


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheEnfusedBird*
> 
> My First Ek Build
> feed back is welcome


Nice build!







Maybe when you drain it swap the GPU bits so the one on the top is on the bottom and the one on the bottom is in the top, it'll just look smoother IMO.


----------



## enkur

I bet that short run from rad to gpu is going to be pretty dang hard. That small of a tube is pretty sticky to install. I had enough cuts and bruises from my build lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Nice build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe when you drain it swap the GPU bits so the one on the top is on the bottom and the one on the bottom is in the top, it'll just look smoother IMO.


----------



## datwitch

Finally moved away from the H100i, I decided to joined the club









Was a tight squeeze but think I got there for my first custom loop:



Question: Should I get a heatsink pump base? Can't tell if the fan is enough to keep it cool (I've read that DDC pumps can get hot?).


----------



## saintruski

i have massive issues with their threading on the x4 res's. The threads just strip out without even over tightening for me, went through two bottoms now, thinking of changing brands :/ dont know if locktight is safe for POM/Acetal, or if that will even fill the gaps for leaks but the stops dont screw in to a stop at all.


----------



## enkur

Looks like I have couple of air bubbles in my EK Supremacy EVO block and cant seem to get them out. Any ideas... I have tilted the case couple of different ways but cant get them out. Should I run some heavy CPU load while doing that or try it when its off?
I have circled the two areas that I think are bubbles... can someone confirm?


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Looks like I have couple of air bubbles in my EK Supremacy EVO block and cant seem to get them out. Any ideas... I have tilted the case couple of different ways but cant get them out. Should I run some heavy CPU load while doing that or try it when its off?
> I have circled the two areas that I think are bubbles... can someone confirm?


Try different pump speeds.


----------



## zu903

just got half my vardar fans in anyone else needed to get longer screws. I have a ek rad and im using the screws provided with that and they are a few mm's shy. Thought about drilling a very small step. might even look a little nicer with the screw head a little recessed.


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Looks like I have couple of air bubbles in my EK Supremacy EVO block and cant seem to get them out. Any ideas... I have tilted the case couple of different ways but cant get them out. Should I run some heavy CPU load while doing that or try it when its off?
> I have circled the two areas that I think are bubbles... can someone confirm?


From what i found is time takes out most air bubbles.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Looks like I have couple of air bubbles in my EK Supremacy EVO block and cant seem to get them out. Any ideas... I have tilted the case couple of different ways but cant get them out. Should I run some heavy CPU load while doing that or try it when its off?
> I have circled the two areas that I think are bubbles... can someone confirm?


it'll take a couple weeks for them to find their way out. No amount of pump speed modulation or cpu stress testing for or manipulating the case in different orientations will get those out. I've tried all those things. As others have said, it just takes time.


----------



## enkur

Changing the pump speed and using max CPU load doesnt help. Ill see if over time it gets rid of it.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Laying the case flat will help.

Might do a build around the new bugatti if I get the time (and money) it looks gorgeous!


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zu903*
> 
> just got half my vardar fans in anyone else needed to get longer screws. I have a ek rad and im using the screws provided with that and they are a few mm's shy. Thought about drilling a very small step. might even look a little nicer with the screw head a little recessed.


If you are talking about the short screws that come with your rad, then yes, they are definitely a few mm short. My EK PE 480 screws are the same way with my Vardar's. I just ordered a box of longer ones from Amazon.


----------



## TheEnfusedBird

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Nice build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe when you drain it swap the GPU bits so the one on the top is on the bottom and the one on the bottom is in the top, it'll just look smoother IMO.


Yeah that's what I planned to do but its way too much of a tight fight so I had to do it the way I have. any way I am really happy how it turned out


----------



## ITAngel

I think I have enough to play with cooling.


----------



## funfordcobra

I use about 5-10 drops of soap every fill. It makes zero possibilities of having a bubble bigger than a pin head and they collect at the top of the res in less than 2 hours. Just soak up the top suds with a dab of toilet paper.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I use about 5-10 drops of soap every fill. It makes zero possibilities of having a bubble bigger than a pin head and they collect at the top of the res in less than 2 hours. Just soak up the top suds with a dab of toilet paper.


Soap? Why soap? I've only ever used soap to clean blocks take apart, never in a loop, that sounds like a nightmare to me.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Soap? Why soap? I've only ever used soap to clean blocks take apart, never in a loop, that sounds like a nightmare to me.


I use it as well, it quiets down the pump and help push air to the surface.


----------



## mcspawnagain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I use it as well, it quiets down the pump and help push air to the surface.


something new every day hmm


----------



## FXformat

Let me reiterate, I use soap in my AIO, the new custom loop doesn't need it yet, seems to be air free


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I use it as well, it quiets down the pump and help push air to the surface.


I just leave my pump on setting 1 and I don't have issues with air? Air normally leaves the loop after a few weeks.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Changing the pump speed and using max CPU load doesnt help. Ill see if over time it gets rid of it.


I wouldn't trip. Long as the fluid is passing through the block to remove heat, the air will work itself out.

TCO


----------



## Abiathar

Just finished my build.

EK Supremacy EVO, copper/clear with white LEDs
EK-RES X3 150
EX DDC 3.2 PWM
All EK fittings


----------



## mcspawnagain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abiathar*
> 
> Just finished my build.
> 
> EK Supremacy EVO, copper/clear with white LEDs
> EK-RES X3 150
> EX DDC 3.2 PWM
> All EK fittings


NICE BUILD!


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Soap? Why soap? I've only ever used soap to clean blocks take apart, never in a loop, that sounds like a nightmare to me.


Soap/Dishwashing liquid reduces the natural surface tension (capillary action) that water has so it becomes much more difficult for water to take on a curved shape eg: to form bubbles.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Soap/Dishwashing liquid reduces the natural surface tension (capillary action) that water has so it is much harder for water to take on a curved shape eg: bubbles.


Well what kind of soap are you using? If washing up liquid I personally wouldn't use it as I've seen it destroy paint work and cause corrosion on metals so I'll just stick with de-ionized water I think. Bubbles really aren't a massive issue.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Well what kind of soap are you using?


I don't use soap/dishwashing liquid in my loops.

I generally prefer glycol based coolants and many of these usually have additives in them that achieve the same thing.


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

Ordered this morning from PPCs, for some reason ekwb kept refusing my money.







Any who, kit comes friday, should have assembled same day... will post completed works shortly after project is complete.

EK-KIT L360 (R2.0) Watercooling Kit EK-KIT-L360-R2 1 $249.99
Mayhems Silver Coil 99.999 Pure Fine Silver MD-SILVER-COIL 1 $0.00
Koolance Nozzle Single, 3/8" (10mm) G1/4 Threaded NZL-V10 2 $8.98
EK-AF FillPort G1/4 - Black EK-AF-FP-G14-BK 1 $9.99
PrimoChill Pure Performance Coolant (32 oz.) - Steel Blue PCPURE-SB 1 $12.95
PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coils 5/8" OD - Gloss Blue PCC-58-B 3 $11.85
Subtotal $293.76

Wish me luck.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardheadedMurphy*
> 
> Ordered this morning from PPCs, for some reason ekwb kept refusing my money.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any who, kit comes friday, should have assembled same day... will post completed works shortly after project is complete.
> 
> EK-KIT L360 (R2.0) Watercooling Kit EK-KIT-L360-R2 1 $249.99
> Mayhems Silver Coil 99.999 Pure Fine Silver MD-SILVER-COIL 1 $0.00
> Koolance Nozzle Single, 3/8" (10mm) G1/4 Threaded NZL-V10 2 $8.98
> EK-AF FillPort G1/4 - Black EK-AF-FP-G14-BK 1 $9.99
> PrimoChill Pure Performance Coolant (32 oz.) - Steel Blue PCPURE-SB 1 $12.95
> PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coils 5/8" OD - Gloss Blue PCC-58-B 3 $11.85
> Subtotal $293.76
> 
> Wish me luck.


Good luck, i've stopped shopping with them, been ordering stuff online for years and have grown accustomed to free shipping, this site makes u pay...i just started and have already 2 transactions that i didn't like, i paid for priority 2 days shipping, order placed friday, didnt get it till next friday. On another transaction, one of my bending insert was too small, they wouldn't try to find me the correct size...it's a $2.99 item...

they're not bad and do stock a lot of stuff, we just got off on the wrong foot.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Good luck, i've stopped shopping with them, been ordering stuff online for years and have grown accustomed to free shipping, this site makes u pay...i just started and have already 2 transactions that i didn't like, i paid for priority 2 days shipping, order placed friday, didnt get it till next friday. On another transaction, one of my bending insert was too small, they wouldn't try to find me the correct size...it's a $2.99 item...
> 
> they're not bad and do stock a lot of stuff, we just got off on the wrong foot.


Their shipping costs turn me off. They don't make sense.


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

As I stated, I WOULD have given ekwb my buisness directly, but for some reason my card kept getting declined. Looked at ModMyMods, but they have crap for a selection and I dont like the idea of a bay res.
if anyone knows another vendor stateside with a decent selction I am all ears.


----------



## enkur

where do you shop for water cooling parts? ekwb directly or some other site
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Good luck, i've stopped shopping with them, been ordering stuff online for years and have grown accustomed to free shipping, this site makes u pay...i just started and have already 2 transactions that i didn't like, i paid for priority 2 days shipping, order placed friday, didnt get it till next friday. On another transaction, one of my bending insert was too small, they wouldn't try to find me the correct size...it's a $2.99 item...
> 
> they're not bad and do stock a lot of stuff, we just got off on the wrong foot.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Their shipping costs turn me off. They don't make sense.


Yeah tell me about it, i paid 23 bucks for shipping on a CPU block and a small bottle of coolant
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> where do you shop for water cooling parts? ekwb directly or some other site


I have 3 Microcenter within 50 mile radius of where i live, i get it from there. They stock pretty much any EKWB products...but since i've switched to 16mm rigid tubing, i have to do my shoppings online, i try to use ebay and amazon, or craig's list. Anywhere with free shipping, or decent shipping rates.


----------



## gdubc

PPcs shipping is pretty redic. I was pricing around for items and many things were cheaper to get at some of the UK stores and have shipped overseas. Seems dumb I can get stuff cheaper and sometimes faster from UK to Colorado than from Florida to CO.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> PPcs shipping is pretty redic. I was pricing around for items and many things were cheaper to get at some of the UK stores and have shipped overseas. Seems dumb I can get stuff cheaper and sometimes faster from UK to Colorado than from Florida to CO.


True, but no one else has the selection that ppcs does, so we pay for that convienence.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> PPcs shipping is pretty redic. I was pricing around for items and many things were cheaper to get at some of the UK stores and have shipped overseas. Seems dumb I can get stuff cheaper and sometimes faster from UK to Colorado than from Florida to CO.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> True, but no one else has the selection that ppcs does, so we pay for that convienence.


Agree with both of you. PPCs does have pretty much anything, I wish Amazon would have them.


----------



## funfordcobra

They overcharged me for shipping too. I didn't notice until they refunded me the difference. So, they know about it and are refunding. Not sure why they cant sort it out on their site though..


----------



## acanom

Greetings,

I have to following question.

Because I can´t get the right backplate for my card anymore, I´ll have to mod another one.

I realized, that EK ist making their backplates specifically for each card. Meaning, that there are cut out on the backpalte for the transistor on the back of the PCB in addition to standoff screws,
Other manufactures aren´t doing that. They just use standoff screws and plain backplates.

My question ist, how big is the danger of shorting sth?
And are thermalpads enough as insulation?

What would you recommend?

Thank you all!


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> little make over with nickel titan-X backplate and 250mm x3 reservoir:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice fitting work going from the Intel 750 SSD to the Titan X.
I think it looks better than the original run with the long 90.
Which Bitspower fittings did you use?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I had some trouble because it didn't line up as i wanted with the wrong angles and it didn't look good at all. Also two of the fittings where very loose in the rotary connection. I'll buy some new 90 degrees fittings, but not EK one's. It's a shame because I think all the EK-AF fittings look great
> 
> 
> 
> I wish the EK CSQ fittings weren't end of life, I love mine and have no issues at all!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> I wish the EK CSQ fittings weren't end of life, I love mine and have no issues at all!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't understand at all why they are EOL.
> They where so much better looking then the round ones. And with the EK logo <3
> 
> I have quiet a few of them in my build and never had an issue with them
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> I agree! The CSQ fittings look amazing! I have 90's x4 and 45 x1 and they all move perfectly with 0 leaks. EK, bring back the CSQ's!!
> 
> 
> 
> Hell yeah! Let's start a petition
Click to expand...

They are EOL because Tt stole their design changed the logo and are making money from the stolen design. Don't hold your breath on Edvard bringing them back to the line. I for one cannot blame EK for going another direction after that.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> They overcharged me for shipping too. I didn't notice until they refunded me the difference. So, they know about it and are refunding. Not sure why they cant sort it out on their site though..


Just spent $13 in shipping for two 6packs of Monsoon Economy Hardline fittings. Shipping should have been half that, as I can fit both packs side by side in a VHS mailer with enough room for bubble wrap padding.

I honestly don't have much of a problem ordering from them except for these kinds of issues. Personally I think they should fire the person responsible for their web page. I know for a fact that they've gotten complaints of this issue and it's been going on since before they changed their layout. I don't believe that it's done intentionally. But I can't believe that this issue can't have been sorted out in less than a month.









~Ceadder


----------



## nzphil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They are EOL because Tt stole their design changed the logo and are making money from the stolen design. Don't hold your breath on Edvard bringing them back to the line. I for one cannot blame EK for going another direction after that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just spent $13 in shipping for two 6packs of Monsoon Economy Hardline fittings. Shipping should have been half that, as I can fit both packs side by side in a VHS mailer with enough room for bubble wrap padding.
> 
> I honestly don't have much of a problem ordering from them except for these kinds of issues. Personally I think they should fire the person responsible for their web page. I know for a fact that they've gotten complaints of this issue and it's been going on since before they changed their layout. I don't believe that it's done intentionally. But I can't believe that this issue can't have been sorted out in less than a month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah I'm hoping MMM gives them some much need healthy competition so they up their game. I've ordered from them a number of times and while it was a mostly pleasant experience there is definitely room for improvement. Lack of a competitive market is always bad for the customers.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzphil*
> 
> Yeah I'm hoping MMM gives them some much need healthy competition so they up their game. I've ordered from them a number of times and while it was a mostly pleasant experience there is definitely room for improvement. Lack of a competitive market is always bad for the customers.


MMM is amazing and I have had nothing but great experiences with them! I just hope once they get a little more established they up their inventory. As for PPC's shipping, I am really unbiased as I am military and anywhere I go shipping is high but from what I have read here, PPC's shipping is ridiculous! One thing that bothers me too (I know they are big so giving them some sort of break) is their turnaround time on shipping. There has been times where I ordered two small items and it took over a week to process and ship! I think it is ridiculous that they also charge $2.99 for faster shipping. How about we just work on shipping times so this is not an issue? Other than that, they have been good to work with though but I would definitely go to MMM first if they have the item I am looking for.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They are EOL because Tt stole their design changed the logo and are making money from the stolen design. Don't hold your breath on Edvard bringing them back to the line. I for one cannot blame EK for going another direction after that.


It's not stolen if it is not legally protected, it's just copied. The EK fittings looked 10 times better anyway because they had their logo stamped in them not just imprinted. IMO this was no reason to EOL them, EK wouldn't have suffered from the design copy and could have marketed them as "The original, THE best, Accept no imitations". Once again like CL whining, they could have used this as leverage to market their originality and quality of their product, but chose the lesser path...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They are EOL because Tt stole their design changed the logo and are making money from the stolen design. Don't hold your breath on Edvard bringing them back to the line. I for one cannot blame EK for going another direction after that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not stolen if it is not legally protected, it's just copied. The EK fittings looked 10 times better anyway because they had their logo stamped in them not just imprinted. IMO this was no reason to EOL them, EK wouldn't have suffered from the design copy and could have marketed them as "The original, THE best, Accept no imitations". Once again like CL whining, they could have used this as leverage to market their originality and quality of their product, but chose the lesser path...
Click to expand...

Okay... I don't mean to downgrade your opinion, after all it is your opinion. But;

It *is* stolen. I don't give a rat's furry posterior if it has the Tt logo instead of the EK logo. There is NOTHING new done there other than they rebadged the damned things. Tt *used* to be innovative. I *used* to like their stuff. Now they simply copy their competitors and while "imitation is a form of flattery", as Geno from Monsoon has said a few times, they went after EK's design because EK is at the top of the water cooling food chain.

Hold one of those Tt fittings up alongside the EK CSQ fittings. If those fittings had round price tag labels over the logos, could you even tell the difference which is which if you didn't know what you were looking at and someone asked you? I seriously doubt it. Which were out first? CSQ or Tt fittings? I could care less if they were "protected". That's seriously a flawed response to the matter. That's the reason why knockoffs exist. Cause if you really cared, you wouldn't shrug it off and say "it's just copied". That is someone's design and someone else intentionally copied the design and is making money off it. That's theft, and it's wrong. Sadly Tt won't be going out of business, even though they deserve to. I know I won't support ANY company with the attitude that Tt consistently displays.









~Ceadder


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardheadedMurphy*
> 
> As I stated, I WOULD have given ekwb my buisness directly, but for some reason my card kept getting declined. Looked at ModMyMods, but they have crap for a selection and I dont like the idea of a bay res.
> if anyone knows another vendor stateside with a decent selction I am all ears.


I swear by aquatuning now its located in Germany, they ship to me in 3 days, cheaply 8 dollars, 18 for express which is next business day. They do not however carry EKWB.


^and for some reason they've felt the need to send gummy bears with every package Ive gotten so far


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HardheadedMurphy*
> 
> As I stated, I WOULD have given ekwb my buisness directly, but for some reason my card kept getting declined. Looked at ModMyMods, but they have crap for a selection and I dont like the idea of a bay res.
> if anyone knows another vendor stateside with a decent selction I am all ears.
> 
> 
> 
> I swear by aquatuning now, they ship to me in 3 days, cheaply. They do not however carry EKWB.
Click to expand...

Performance-PCs, is pretty much the *only* go to site(besides EK) for EK hardware. I've gotten almost all my EK goodies from them.









Any 2nd hand EK gear I own was also procured from them as well so all my EK gear is from them.









~Ceadder


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Performance-PCs, is pretty much the *only* go to site(besides EK) for EK hardware. I've gotten almost all my EK goodies from them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any 2nd hand EK gear I own was also procured from them as well so all my EK gear is from them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Procured, nice word usage.









I plan on procuring an EK M8E monoblock OR HeatKiller IV from PPCS tomorrow morning.

Can't decide which one to get.


----------



## gdubc

If you're lucky enough to live close to a microcenter they have good ek selection.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> If you're lucky enough to live close to a microcenter they have good ek selection.


Holy ****.









Nearest Microcenter from here is an 18hour drive round trip into the next state Georgia.

Never been inside a Microcenter, having PPCS 10minutes away is a nice consolation.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Performance-PCs, is pretty much the *only* go to site(besides EK) for EK hardware. I've gotten almost all my EK goodies from them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any 2nd hand EK gear I own was also procured from them as well so all my EK gear is from them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Procured, nice word usage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan on procuring an EK M8E monoblock OR HeatKiller IV from PPCS tomorrow morning.
> 
> Can't decide which one to get.
Click to expand...

I'd go with the Monoblock. That thing is he sheets.









~Ceadder


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'd go with the Monoblock. That thing is he sheets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Alright you convinced me. (twisted my arm)

Placing the order now, pick up 10am. YAY


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'd go with the Monoblock. That thing is he sheets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Alright you convinced me. (twisted my arm)
> 
> Placing the order now, pick up 10am. YAY


Monoblock FTW


----------



## gdubc

So lovely.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Monoblock FTW


Placed the order for the M8E monoblock. My older ROG board always ran the AO Q-code when stable, my new board says "bf" instead.









Ordered

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fb-asus-m8e-monoblock-nickel.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/hardware-labs-black-ice-sr2-multiport-black-carbon-radiator-240mm.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-g1-4-deluxe-white-stop-fitting.html

.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'd go with the Monoblock. That thing is he sheets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright you convinced me. (twisted my arm)
> 
> Placing the order now, pick up 10am. YAY
Click to expand...

Glad to be of service. Those HK IV blocks are nice but the shiny bling bling would clash with your build imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Glad to be of service. Those HK IV blocks are nice but the shiny bling bling would clash with your build imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yea, my build is pretty dull.









...and boring.









...don't forget dreadful.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They are EOL because Tt stole their design changed the logo and are making money from the stolen design. Don't hold your breath on Edvard bringing them back to the line. I for one cannot blame EK for going another direction after that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not stolen if it is not legally protected, it's just copied. The EK fittings looked 10 times better anyway because they had their logo stamped in them not just imprinted. IMO this was no reason to EOL them, EK wouldn't have suffered from the design copy and could have marketed them as "The original, THE best, Accept no imitations". Once again like CL whining, they could have used this as leverage to market their originality and quality of their product, but chose the lesser path...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Okay... I don't mean to downgrade your opinion, after all it is your opinion. But;
> 
> It *is* stolen. I don't give a rat's furry posterior if it has the Tt logo instead of the EK logo. There is NOTHING new done there other than they rebadged the damned things. Tt *used* to be innovative. I *used* to like their stuff. Now they simply copy their competitors and while "imitation is a form of flattery", as Geno from Monsoon has said a few times, they went after EK's design because EK is at the top of the water cooling food chain.
> 
> Hold one of those Tt fittings up alongside the EK CSQ fittings. If those fittings had round price tag labels over the logos, could you even tell the difference which is which if you didn't know what you were looking at and someone asked you? I seriously doubt it. Which were out first? CSQ or Tt fittings? I could care less if they were "protected". That's seriously a flawed response to the matter. That's the reason why knockoffs exist. Cause if you really cared, you wouldn't shrug it off and say "it's just copied". That is someone's design and someone else intentionally copied the design and is making money off it. That's theft, and it's wrong. Sadly Tt won't be going out of business, even though they deserve to. I know I won't support ANY company with the attitude that Tt consistently displays.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Well said, Ceadder.
I couldn't agree more. After the stunt Tt pulled with CaseLabs, now this with EK.
Yeah, they'll get away with it, and profit from it too.
But certainly not from me, either.
Rep+


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They are EOL because Tt stole their design changed the logo and are making money from the stolen design. Don't hold your breath on Edvard bringing them back to the line. I for one cannot blame EK for going another direction after that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not stolen if it is not legally protected, it's just copied. The EK fittings looked 10 times better anyway because they had their logo stamped in them not just imprinted. IMO this was no reason to EOL them, EK wouldn't have suffered from the design copy and could have marketed them as "The original, THE best, Accept no imitations". Once again like CL whining, they could have used this as leverage to market their originality and quality of their product, but chose the lesser path...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Okay... I don't mean to downgrade your opinion, after all it is your opinion. But;
> 
> It *is* stolen. I don't give a rat's furry posterior if it has the Tt logo instead of the EK logo. There is NOTHING new done there other than they rebadged the damned things. Tt *used* to be innovative. I *used* to like their stuff. Now they simply copy their competitors and while "imitation is a form of flattery", as Geno from Monsoon has said a few times, they went after EK's design because EK is at the top of the water cooling food chain.
> 
> Hold one of those Tt fittings up alongside the EK CSQ fittings. If those fittings had round price tag labels over the logos, could you even tell the difference which is which if you didn't know what you were looking at and someone asked you? I seriously doubt it. Which were out first? CSQ or Tt fittings? I could care less if they were "protected". That's seriously a flawed response to the matter. That's the reason why knockoffs exist. Cause if you really cared, you wouldn't shrug it off and say "it's just copied". That is someone's design and someone else intentionally copied the design and is making money off it. That's theft, and it's wrong. Sadly Tt won't be going out of business, even though they deserve to. I know I won't support ANY company with the attitude that Tt consistently displays.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well said, Ceadder.
> I couldn't agree more. After the stunt Tt pulled with CaseLabs, now this with EK.
> Yeah, they'll get away with it, and profit from it too.
> But certainly not from me, either.
> Rep+
Click to expand...

Could you imagine the venom and outrage coming from the Tt camp if iN Win, Case Labs or any other of the big name companies pirated Tt's T10 case after they only had it out for less than 2 years. You'd see heads exploding from Tt Execs all round the world.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They are EOL because Tt stole their design changed the logo and are making money from the stolen design. Don't hold your breath on Edvard bringing them back to the line. I for one cannot blame EK for going another direction after that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not stolen if it is not legally protected, it's just copied. The EK fittings looked 10 times better anyway because they had their logo stamped in them not just imprinted. IMO this was no reason to EOL them, EK wouldn't have suffered from the design copy and could have marketed them as "The original, THE best, Accept no imitations". Once again like CL whining, they could have used this as leverage to market their originality and quality of their product, but chose the lesser path...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Okay... I don't mean to downgrade your opinion, after all it is your opinion. But;
> 
> It *is* stolen. I don't give a rat's furry posterior if it has the Tt logo instead of the EK logo. There is NOTHING new done there other than they rebadged the damned things. Tt *used* to be innovative. I *used* to like their stuff. Now they simply copy their competitors and while "imitation is a form of flattery", as Geno from Monsoon has said a few times, they went after EK's design because EK is at the top of the water cooling food chain.
> 
> Hold one of those Tt fittings up alongside the EK CSQ fittings. If those fittings had round price tag labels over the logos, could you even tell the difference which is which if you didn't know what you were looking at and someone asked you? I seriously doubt it. Which were out first? CSQ or Tt fittings? I could care less if they were "protected". That's seriously a flawed response to the matter. That's the reason why knockoffs exist. Cause if you really cared, you wouldn't shrug it off and say "it's just copied". That is someone's design and someone else intentionally copied the design and is making money off it. That's theft, and it's wrong. Sadly Tt won't be going out of business, even though they deserve to. I know I won't support ANY company with the attitude that Tt consistently displays.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

So man I was totally into your response and genuinely felt your passion, UNTIL, you said my response was flawed.

1. If a product is not patented, copyrighted, or trademarked in any way then it is NOT protected by any legal means and can be used in any manner seen fit by 3rd outside parties.
2. An opinion by its very nature cannot be flawed because it is representative of an individual's feelings and beliefs and therefore is not subject to the rules and definition of "flaw".

Other than that, I totally get what your saying, and hear your feelings on the matter. But just because I don't buy a German made toaster doesn't mean my friends and family who do are flawed. It just means they care more about branding, which is totally fine, but in no way should commit all the companies who make toasters to treachery because they learned how to copy something that can toast bread vertically.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They are EOL because Tt stole their design changed the logo and are making money from the stolen design. Don't hold your breath on Edvard bringing them back to the line. I for one cannot blame EK for going another direction after that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not stolen if it is not legally protected, it's just copied. The EK fittings looked 10 times better anyway because they had their logo stamped in them not just imprinted. IMO this was no reason to EOL them, EK wouldn't have suffered from the design copy and could have marketed them as "The original, THE best, Accept no imitations". Once again like CL whining, they could have used this as leverage to market their originality and quality of their product, but chose the lesser path...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Okay... I don't mean to downgrade your opinion, after all it is your opinion. But;
> 
> It *is* stolen. I don't give a rat's furry posterior if it has the Tt logo instead of the EK logo. There is NOTHING new done there other than they rebadged the damned things. Tt *used* to be innovative. I *used* to like their stuff. Now they simply copy their competitors and while "imitation is a form of flattery", as Geno from Monsoon has said a few times, they went after EK's design because EK is at the top of the water cooling food chain.
> 
> Hold one of those Tt fittings up alongside the EK CSQ fittings. If those fittings had round price tag labels over the logos, could you even tell the difference which is which if you didn't know what you were looking at and someone asked you? I seriously doubt it. Which were out first? CSQ or Tt fittings? I could care less if they were "protected". That's seriously a flawed response to the matter. That's the reason why knockoffs exist. Cause if you really cared, you wouldn't shrug it off and say "it's just copied". That is someone's design and someone else intentionally copied the design and is making money off it. That's theft, and it's wrong. Sadly Tt won't be going out of business, even though they deserve to. I know I won't support ANY company with the attitude that Tt consistently displays.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So man I was totally into your response and genuinely felt your passion, UNTIL, you said my response was flawed.
> 
> 1. If a product is not patented, copyrighted, or trademarked in any way then it is NOT protected by any legal means and can be used in any manner seen fit by 3rd outside parties.
> 2. An opinion by its very nature cannot be flawed because it is representative of an individual's feelings and beliefs and therefore is not subject to the rules and definition of "flaw".
> 
> Other than that, I totally get what your saying, and hear your feelings on the matter. But just because I don't buy a German made toaster doesn't mean my friends and family who do are flawed. It just means they care more about branding, which is totally fine, but in no way should commit all the companies who make toasters to treachery because they learned how to copy something that can toast bread vertically.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I don't think you truly understand. Which is okay. I'm not saying that it's just your stance. It's not. You aren't the first and you won't be the last to feel that way. I am saying the stance itself is flawed. Not because it lacks sense. Quite the opposite. It makes perfect sense. But that doesn't give *anyone* the right to take something that is not their property and sell it as such after such an obviously ridiculous change as a rebadging and only that.

You can put any other product up and it still won't make it right. Car, toaster, paper plates... what have you; this is a particular market and toasters have been round for nearly 75 years. Watercooling products have been round for what, less than 10 years? Definitely less than 15. It's one thing to take a design and improve upon it. It's another when the only thing changed is the badging which has no benefit to the industry or the end user. It's not like Tt learned how to translate -5c per angle fitting to the end user's cooling system. And this is another reason it's theft.









Imagine VW selling a Vette with their badging on it.









~Ceadder


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah, I don't think you truly understand. Which is okay. I'm not saying that it's just your stance. It's not. You aren't the first and you won't be the last to feel that way. I am saying the stance itself is flawed. Not because it lacks sense. Quite the opposite. It makes perfect sense. But that doesn't give *anyone* the right to take something that is not their property and sell it as such after such an obviously ridiculous change as a rebadging and only that.
> 
> You can put any other product up and it still won't make it right. Car, toaster, paper plates... what have you; this is a particular market and toasters have been round for nearly 75 years. Watercooling products have been round for what, less than 10 years? Definitely less than 15. It's one thing to take a design and improve upon it. It's another when the only thing changed is the badging which has no benefit to the industry or the end user. It's not like Tt learned how to translate -5c per angle fitting to the end user's cooling system. And this is another reason it's theft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Imagine VW selling a Vette with their badging on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Even if things have protections things get copied, see China vs Michael Jordan for one example. So i think copyright/trademark law is a very bad way to base theft of design, logo, brand ETC on because it happens anyways, its theft, its someones unique product, all you are is a ripoff artist and a lot is at risk including the people you rip off.


----------



## Ceadderman

It certainly is detrimental to the industry, that's for sure. There is no competition in copying, manufacturing someone else's designs and marketing it as your own.









~Ceadder


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> If you're lucky enough to live close to a microcenter they have good ek selection.


I thought that looked familiar. I'm up in Thornton. Their fittings are a real mess though.


----------



## Kylar182

So I want to switch to Acrylic Tubing but I don't know what to order.

here is my current build. http://pcpartpicker.com/b/FzccCJ

First off, I am swapping to a custom, "ground up case" build and building a custom desk so it won't look so sloppy.


----------



## BrjSan

Hey guys i need your water cooling skills in here please: Fitting GlideStream 140 on EK CE 420

peace


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Hey guys i need your water cooling skills in here please: Fitting GlideStream 140 on EK CE 420
> 
> peace


Skills what skills?









just kidding, I noticed someone helped you in the link you provided, good luck with those fans.

In other news.

"Mono E Mono"

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/ekfb-asus-m8e_np_fit_800_zps5eyqqm3d.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/EKFB-ASUS-M8E_NP_fit_poster_zpsq4ieaidj.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...inline_nbt0js25uz1qfkjm4_zpsvhivzvcj.gif.html


----------



## iBruce

First Impressions? Need a jawstrap for support and rather speechless. It's extremely heavy. No idea why it didn't cross my mind it would be so heavy, was thinking more of aesthetics and logistics, and um the cost.

It's so beautiful, it's a shame to run clear fluid in this thing, it really is. May have to rethink the fluid choice.

Can I assume the insert and jet plate are pre-assembled for 1151? Or do I need to swap out J2 for J3 and remove the AMD insert? How do I know it's my first monoblock. Haven't even owned a GPU block ever.









Just kidding, Akira. wink wink

CeadderMan will be proud of me.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5242_zpssxxqbk59.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5243_zpsmisek2w1.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5249_zpsoiozfydo.jpg.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Gaaaaaaaaaaawd that's so smexy.









I need to finish my system so I can move up and turn it into a FT Folder.









~Ceadder


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I wonder how often do EK guys run somesort of discount thingies ? Is it worth waiting for one or is it more of a once a year sort of deal like they had in feb ?


----------



## iBruce

The future wife says the monoblock is sending a thumbs-up sign.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5273_zpsmufb0b5l.jpg.html


----------



## Ceadderman

^Indeed!









~Ceadder


----------



## iBruce

Oh that XRES REVO is so beautiful, sits so nicely in that 120mm space front of the radiator. Have to get that 64mm hole cut in the midchassis deck so the reservoir tube can move up into the top chamber.

I think it may work out ok, have to cut the legs off the EK UNI 120mm vertical mount to allow greater latitude of movement that will dictate just where the hole is positioned and marked. Want it to look a bit asymmetric along with the two white passthroughs. Then need to cut two small holes a drill will work for the mounting of the Aquaero 6 LT facing inward towards the midbay.

Had so much success with my last XRES the older design this new REVO was an instabuy. Did for a short time consider using an X3 res in white POM and separate D5 REVO plexi top, but the res and pump coupling proved problematic in the small 120mm area I had to work with, there just was not enough room to center the components, or achieve a tight seal by cutting a short distance of soft tubing, they would have looked jammed in together. Also briefly considered the large X4 250 res cutting a larger 80mm hole in the midchassis aluminum and stringing the white LEDs around the glass in the lower chamber to shine up through the tube, but pump priming and bleeding would have been difficult since the base of the res had to sit on the chassis floor so reaching the pump inlet via gravity would mean raising up the res for bleeding or turning the case to it's side for bleeding, didn't seem like the best solution for a work rig, where reliability is paramount, and the X4 250 did not hold water overnight, still water, not a pressurized loop, just standing water, I could not get that res to work, maybe a first batch anomaly, I don't know but when a product has one job to do, in this case a reservoir holds water, and fails that job, what can you do? So I went back to the tried and very trusted XRES this newer REVO version which is very sexy in it's own right.

Some EK enthusiasts may not realize but when you buy the XRES REVO with the small 100 size tube, you can easily upgrade to three larger size tubes a 150, 250 and even a 400. I believe the number is the total height of the unit in millimeters when attached to the pump top and with the reservoir top in place, so the XRES 100 will be 100mm in height, the 150, 150mm in height and so on I think that's how it works, but don't quote me. At least its good to know (4) sizes of tubes are available for this XRES REVO listed below. And thank you EK for offering the sku without the D5, for customers whom already have a working D5.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xres-100-revo-d5-reservoir-acetal.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5287_zps1qv5glzf.jpg.html





Also, sorry if yesterday's photo was a bit too abstract. This is the thumbs-up sign the fiancee was seeing in the monoblock, and she thought it was very funny, anything to get them involved in this hobby is fine by me.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I believe the number is the total height of the unit in millimeters when attached to the pump top and with the reservoir top in place...


Yes exactly.









~Ceadder


----------



## ITAngel

Finally set my draining valve on my system and is set for now. I can even close the side panel of the case which is nice.


----------



## Daggi

It's sad that the ports on the intel 750 ssd block don't line up with the ports on the GPU block. It's about 7 mm in difference when I measured it
Any ideas to make it look nice???


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> It's sad that the ports on the intel 750 ssd block don't line up with the ports on the GPU block. It's about 7 mm in difference when I measured it
> Any ideas to make it look nice???
> ]


You could try Bitspower's off centre block although I don't know how much offset adjustment it allows for.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-silver-shining-off-center-block.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Or something new for EK blocks...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-terminal-angled.html

You might check em out to see if they fit both blocks.

~Ceadder


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Hello together.
> 
> Today I received my EK-FB ASUS M8I monoblock and was a kind of disapointed as the packaging was already unsealed (seems like the distributor sold me a return block). Nevertheless I was thinking ok, if the block is in good condition, doen't matter it was unsealed. But after removing the protecting sticker for the contact surface with CPU I discovered an isuue. The surface has a lot of small scratches, something you normally do not see from EK products (I also have EK-FB ASUS M6I monoblock and its surface is mirroring smooth). Therefore I would like to know if this surface (see the pics below) is normal?


A small update on my M8I monoblock. I received a new and sealed one after RMA the old one.

Here is the pic:



As you can see it's a huge difference to the previous one.

Couldn't be happier on this surface finish


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> A small update on my M8I monoblock. I received a new and sealed one after RMA the old one.
> 
> Here is the pic:
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it's a huge difference to the previous one.
> 
> Couldn't be happier on this surface finish


Looks great, Monoblock Club.









Checked the CPU surface on this one, nice and smooth mirror finish, can see the phone camera in reflection, although the VRM, mosfet, choke area shows signs of tooling, but that's covered in thermal tape so no effect I would guess.

I do have some heavy unpolished tooling marks (white arrows) in the plexi, nothing horrible but yea I wish they weren't there.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5296_zps9zxy2byl.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5299a_zpshwfrmwk3.jpg.html


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> It's sad that the ports on the intel 750 ssd block don't line up with the ports on the GPU block. It's about 7 mm in difference when I measured it
> Any ideas to make it look nice???


I was looking at this problem also.
It looks like MrTOOSHORT developed a fairly elegant solution.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I was looking at this problem also.
> It looks like MrTOOSHORT developed a fairly elegant solution.


That's a quite nice solution.


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys. I'm going to be making my own custom loop soon. I just have a few questions before I do it.

1. Is the Nickel finish glossy/reflective? Or more of a semi-gloss/matte?

2. I'll be doing a completely custom loop, and this is also my first time. Here's a very crappy sketch made from MS paint of my loop and flow. Does it have any glaring issues? As for the QDC, I've changed it to just a T-Fitting with some plugs on it.



3. Do EK GPU's come with plugs included? Or should I order two so I can make sure it's plugged up well?

4. Given the list below, about how much liquid do you guys think I'll need to fill my loop? Even an approximation would be nice. I have two liters in my list of parts to order, which is probably plenty.
- EKWB SE 240mm Radiator
- EKWB Supremacy EVO CPU block
- EKWB GTX 980 block
- Liang DDC pump with Phobya pump top
- "NCase M1 Reservoir"
- Less than 1.5m of 10mm" ID tubing

That's all for now.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

1. ek's nickel is glossy and reflective
2. your loop order looks ok although i'd swap the gpu inlet/outlet so you don't have tubes running over the top of each other
3. Yes they come with plugs included
4. You'll need less than a liter most likely. For comparison I have 5 rads with 1320mm of rad space total, 2 gpu blocks, a cpu block, a ram block, a mobo vrm block, 2 d5 pumps, and a 250mm res. It takes exactly 2 liters to fill.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> 1. ek's nickel is glossy and reflective
> 2. your loop order looks ok although i'd swap the gpu inlet/outlet so you don't have tubes running over the top of each other
> 3. Yes they come with plugs included
> 4. You'll need less than a liter most likely. For comparison I have 5 rads with 1320mm of rad space total, 2 gpu blocks, a cpu block, a ram block, a mobo vrm block, 2 d5 pumps, and a 250mm res. It takes exactly 2 liters to fill.


Thanks for all the info! I'll make sure to swap the inlet and outlet as you've mentioned, thanks for the tip. I may still order extra liquid, just in case I want to, or need to, use it in the future.

Also, what type of plugs come with the GPU? Out of curiosity? My block is going to be Nickel & Acetal.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Thanks for all the info! I'll make sure to swap the inlet and outlet as you've mentioned, thanks for the tip. I may still order extra liquid, just in case I want to, or need to, use it in the future.
> 
> Also, what type of plugs come with the GPU? Out of curiosity? My block is going to be Nickel & Acetal.


the plugs are nickel and use an allen wrench socket on top. If you're familiar with other ek products such as their res's they're the same ones that recess into res tops/bottoms. The difference is these don't recess since the ports on the gpu terminal are made to work with normal fittings. They're not the most attractive fittings imo. If you're into aesthetics i'd recommend buying one of EK's plugs to match your black acetal or buy one of the nickel logo ones.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> the plugs are nickel and use an allen wrench socket on top. If you're familiar with other ek products such as their res's they're the same ones that recess into res tops/bottoms. The difference is these don't recess since the ports on the gpu terminal are made to work with normal fittings. They're not the most attractive fittings imo. If you're into aesthetics i'd recommend buying one of EK's plugs to match your black acetal or buy one of the nickel logo ones.


I'll likely buy some of the Nickel plugs then, to keep the theme of black components and Nickel fittings. I may also go with red compression fittings, if I get extremely adventurous and decide to paint my motherboard's heatsinks and RAM slots. I might also buy enough plugs to fit into my Reservoir, since that will be on the exterior.


----------



## iBruce

Cool pic, felt like sharing. Finalized the cooling parts in the sig rig info after 12months of hashing it all out. Feels really good to finally have a stable model for this build.

Visit Mr. Wellsburg's component parts to find out what makes him tick.

...there are two radiators in this view, can you find them?










http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5310_zpswicy1mk7.jpg.html


----------



## akira749

Hi guys!

Earlier last week, we released our new P-Series Kits but didn't had the time to make the announcement here before. Sorry about this small delay.









EK releases brand new P series kits


----------



## iBruce

Sweet Water Kits,

Nice to see you back in action akira.


----------



## akira749

Some shots of my current build with some EK goodies


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Some shots of my current build with some EK goodies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [


That looks sharp. too bad it's a GB board but as a Gians fan I love those colors.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sazexa

That orange and black theme is amazing.


----------



## iBruce

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> Earlier last week, we released our new P-Series Kits but didn't had the time to make the announcement here before. Sorry about this small delay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK releases brand new P series kits


Slow down and produce better products for all of us without the stupid QC RECALLS and so many skus that should most likely be recalled.

Stop pumping out 12 new skus a month.

You have the ability to readjust, just do it.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> Earlier last week, we released our new P-Series Kits but didn't had the time to make the announcement here before. Sorry about this small delay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK releases brand new P series kits
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slow down and produce better products for all of us without the stupid QC RECALLS and so many skus that should most likely be recalled.
> 
> Stop pumping out 12 new skus a month.
> 
> You have the ability to readjust, just do it.
Click to expand...

Recall? You mean the predator recall? The P series kit is a kit, not predator AIO.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Recall? You mean the predator recall? The P series kit is a kit, not predator AIO.


No one is talking about a kit, get on the page brother, talking EK business in general terms.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Recall? You mean the predator recall? The P series kit is a kit, not predator AIO.
> 
> 
> 
> No one is talking about a kit, get on the page brother, talking EK business in general terms.
Click to expand...

Well you're quoting P series kit announcement. Other than predator & vardar, what else has been recalled recently?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Well you're quoting P series kit announcement. Other than predator & vardar, what else has been recalled recently?


It's a direct message to akira and EK.

Don't try to play it beyond that.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Well you're quoting P series kit announcement. Other than predator & vardar, what else has been recalled recently?
> 
> 
> 
> It's a direct message to akira and EK.
> 
> Don't try to play it beyond that.
Click to expand...

You can contact them directly, if you want the message directly to them.

Contact info
EKWB d.o.o.
Pod lipami 18
SI-1218 Komenda
Slovenia - EU

[email protected]
www.ekwb.com


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You can contact them directly, if you want the message directly to them.
> 
> Contact info
> EKWB d.o.o.
> Pod lipami 18
> SI-1218 Komenda
> Slovenia - EU
> 
> [email protected]
> www.ekwb.com


Are you for real? Or just a robotic arm?


----------



## iBruce

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5308_zpsuej9pchw.jpg.html


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Are you for real? Or just a robotic arm?


I think that he meant that instead of forum shaming EK, you would probably get better response to your opinion by contacting the company directly and having a civil conversation with someone there.


----------



## andrej124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Finally set my draining valve on my system and is set and I can even close the side panel of the case.


Hi ITAngel! Can I you your photos for some ball valve promotion?









Really nice "text book" use


----------



## alexke

Finished my gf's PC.

Most of it is from parts I had lying around. She said it needed to look cool in oder for it to be on top of the desk.

So I tried...


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alexke*
> 
> Finished my gf's PC.
> 
> Most of it is from parts I had lying around. She said it needed to look cool in oder for it to be on top of the desk.
> 
> So I tried...


Looks great, don't get me wrong, love the use of colour. Would look better if the CPU-> 360 rad run was shorter, maybe get a crossflow rad in there if you can/find a reason to steal your 360mm rad back!

EDIT: This is me being really critical here (your loop looks nicer than mine already, so don't worry too much!) is that if you made the pump->GPU run a tad shorter, and had a 90 degree fitting on the GPU not a 45.


----------



## alexke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Looks great, don't get me wrong, love the use of colour. Would look better if the CPU-> 360 rad run was shorter, maybe get a crossflow rad in there if you can/find a reason to steal your 360mm rad back!
> 
> EDIT: This is me being really critical here (your loop looks nicer than mine already, so don't worry too much!) is that if you made the pump->GPU run a tad shorter, and had a 90 degree fitting on the GPU not a 45.


Thanks for the feedback, I'll keep it in mind next time I'll do an upgrade / maintenance on it.

Preferably in the future I'll switch the top radiator around and have one tube running around the back of the mobotray onto the front radiator.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> Hi ITAngel! Can I you your photos for some ball valve promotion?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really nice "text book" use


Thanks! Sure thing. I was going to take some better pictures since my new camera lens just got in. =) I may need to buy a better light but we will see.


----------



## Duke976

Just received my XE480 from PPC, their was water visible inside the rad upon inspection. So i thought hmm maybe they did flush it before shipping. But i still flush it as i normally do with my newly purchase rad. Low and behold, this rad is one of the most dirtiest rad that i have ever flush.



One good thing that i can say is that their was no dent / puncture issue with this one when i inspected it. Top rad was the XE480 with push config.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

all three of my xe's were at least that filthy or worse. Good thing they perform really well which makes up for the hassle of cleaning them.


----------



## Thoth420

I think that might answer why I see a few black specks inside my res(white dye makes it easy to see). Just a few tiny ones and they seem to be stuck to the res surface interior. I tried to scrape it off the outside but it certainly is internal...it doesn't move either just stays stuck on the surface. Should I worry about gunked rads? I can google the methods to clean them and won't waste anyones time here asking the procedure...just curious. I am pretty OCD and it has been bothering me....was going to flush the loop and clean it out but if the rads have build up it would just probably happen again unless I clean those out.


----------



## mcspawnagain

thats a really clean build GJ!


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcspawnagain*
> 
> thats a really clean build GJ!


If that was for me, i thank you.

Build came from this: 

Now this: 

This thing is still being powered by the lonely H140X inside the 5.25 bay lol


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcspawnagain*
> 
> thats a really clean build GJ!


If you were referring to mine...all credit goes to Maingear for the build work. I just told them exactly what hardware, cooling setup and color theme I wanted very specifically and they executed it perfectly. I don't have the skillset or experience to attempt something like this on my own. I do hope to learn alot from owning it...a bit of reverse engineering. My own Roswell UFO alien technology to learn from.








Unfortunately I had a crap Fury X to start which had artifacting issues at stock clocks. They rectified that very fast with a new GPU but now my pump tach sensor is crapping out so I need to get a new one. I don't put any of this on them as I have the worst luck in regard to getting lemons.


----------



## mcspawnagain

yes that is your pc what case is it?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> If that was for me, i thank you.
> 
> Build came from this:
> 
> Now this:
> 
> This thing is still being powered by the lonely H140X inside the 5.25 bay lol[ quote]
> 
> i like looking at water cooled systems since i built one custom loop a few years ago so what case is it


----------



## mcspawnagain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> If you were referring to mine...all credit goes to Maingear for the build work. I just told them exactly what hardware, cooling setup and color theme I wanted very specifically and they executed it perfectly. I don't have the skillset or experience to attempt something like this on my own. I do hope to learn alot from owning it...a bit of reverse engineering. My own Roswell UFO alien technology to learn from.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately I had a crap Fury X to start which had artifacting issues at stock clocks. They rectified that very fast with a new GPU but now my pump tach sensor is crapping out so I need to get a new one. I don't put any of this on them as I have the worst luck in regard to getting lemons.


for a botique builders i would would look inthat company


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcspawnagain*
> 
> yes that is your pc what case is it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If that was for me, i thank you.
> 
> Build came from this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now this:
> 
> 
> 
> This thing is still being powered by the lonely H140X inside the 5.25 bay lol[ quote]
> 
> i like looking at water cooled systems since i built one custom loop a few years ago so what case is it
Click to expand...

Likely CaseLabs.









~Ceadder


----------



## mcspawnagain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Likely CaseLabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


what is that swift tech a pump res ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcspawnagain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Likely CaseLabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what is that swift tech a pump res ?
Click to expand...

It's swiftec's all in one cooling system.









~Ceadder


----------



## Iceman2733

Ok everyone got a question I just did one of my first water cooling loops and went with all EK blocks. Question on the EK-Supremacy EVO block around the insert I seem to have air stuck or areas that just aren't getting flow they seem to be the 4 paths going towards the outlet of the block. The block has the correct jet plate in it for a 1151 (i changed it) I have tried everything from shaking to laying down and moving around. After a few mins on google searching I see other pics of builds without these areas full of water can anyone tell me if this is normal. Temps are great right now ambient is 20c and processor is idling at 16c, load with Aida64 at stock 4.2 for my 6700k I saw no more than 40c. Just odd to me to be honest just want more info.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcspawnagain*
> 
> yes that is your pc what case is it?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> If that was for me, i thank you.
> 
> Build came from this:
> 
> Now this:
> 
> This thing is still being powered by the lonely H140X inside the 5.25 bay lol[ quote]
> 
> i like looking at water cooled systems since i built one custom loop a few years ago so what case is it
> 
> 
> 
> *Enthoo Primo*
Click to expand...


----------



## mcspawnagain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's swiftec's all in one cooling system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


did you detach the components to build into custom?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcspawnagain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's swiftec's all in one cooling system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did you detach the components to build into custom?
Click to expand...

Not mine. Apologies









~Ceadder







.


----------



## mcspawnagain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not mine. Apologies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


my mistake lol


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcspawnagain*
> 
> for a botique builders i would would look inthat company


They certainly impessed me and I have some experience with a few of their competitors. Top of my list for sure.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcspawnagain*
> 
> did you detach the components to build into custom?


That is correct.


----------



## 7ha7a5ian

Any news of a new full mobo block?


----------



## FXformat

Does EK make a PCH cooling block yet for the Asus Maximus boards? I want it.


----------



## Sazexa

I've completed the plans for my cooling loop. Now the only thing I wish is that EK made a block specifically for my ASRock X99e-ITX/ac. Something like that would have be sweet.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I've completed the plans for my cooling loop. Now the only thing I wish is that EK made a block specifically for my ASRock X99e-ITX/ac. Something like that would have be sweet.


That would be awesome. It would make me jump ship to x99 in a heartbeat. Since it's the only ITX X99 board. And I have a caselabs s3. It's the only X99 board that fits in it without mods.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Ok everyone got a question I just did one of my first water cooling loops and went with all EK blocks. Question on the EK-Supremacy EVO block around the insert I seem to have air stuck or areas that just aren't getting flow they seem to be the 4 paths going towards the outlet of the block. The block has the correct jet plate in it for a 1151 (i changed it) I have tried everything from shaking to laying down and moving around. After a few mins on google searching I see other pics of builds without these areas full of water can anyone tell me if this is normal. Temps are great right now ambient is 20c and processor is idling at 16c, load with Aida64 at stock 4.2 for my 6700k I saw no more than 40c. Just odd to me to be honest just want more info.


Those tiny bubbles will find their way to your reservoir over the course of time. Nothing to worry there.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7ha7a5ian*
> 
> Any news of a new full mobo block?


For which motherboard?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Does EK make a PCH cooling block yet for the Asus Maximus boards? I want it.


I don't think so but for which model exactly?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> That would be awesome. It would make me jump ship to x99 in a heartbeat. Since it's the only ITX X99 board. And I have a caselabs s3. It's the only X99 board that fits in it without mods.


Well, the do sell a narrow ILM bracket to yse any of their water blocks. It would have just been cool to have a full board block









The Narrow ILM mounting bracket is only like $5 USD.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Those tiny bubbles will find their way to your reservoir over the course of time. Nothing to worry there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For which motherboard?
> I don't think so but for which model exactly?


Akira. do you guys make custom orders? wanting a Full Water Block for my 980TI in copper/clear....Will pay the Premium.... Or is that just for linus


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> For which motherboard?
> I don't think so but for which model exactly?


I have the Asus Maximus Gene VIII...a PCH cooler will go great with the Monoblock, i'm looking into cooling the RAM as well.


----------



## Thoth420

Seeing all these monoblocks is making me jelly....


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Seeing all these monoblocks is making me jelly....


Do it!!! So aesthetically pleasing to the eye...but you know this..


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Do it!!! So aesthetically pleasing to the eye...but you know this..


It would cost me quite a bit because I did not do my cooling and it would have to probably be reoriented(unless the ports match position with an EK Supremacy). I also dunno if they make one for the Z 170 Deluxe...or if I am sticking with that board. ASUS is on it's last strike with me. I guess I will wait to decide about the mobo because if it is getting pulled then I easily could get a monoblock for the replacement. It has to be either white(preferred) or all black with no annoying accents(unless they are white ofc) and a Z170 chipset though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Do it!!! So aesthetically pleasing to the eye...but you know this..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would cost me quite a bit because I did not do my cooling and it would have to probably be reoriented(unless the ports match position with an EK Supremacy). I also dunno if they make one for the Z 170 Deluxe...or if I am sticking with that board. ASUS is on it's last strike with me. I guess I will wait to decide about the mobo because if it is getting pulled then I easily could get a monoblock for the replacement. It has to be either white(preferred) or all black with no annoying accents(unless they are white ofc) and a Z170 chipset though.
Click to expand...

Fittings? Check
Block? Check

All you'd need is the monoblock(and possibly the mounting kit) and < 2ft of tubing and some intestinal fortitude to change to a Monoblock.









~Ceadder


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Fittings? Check
> Block? Check
> 
> All you'd need is the monoblock(and possibly the mounting kit) and < 2ft of tubing and some intestinal fortitude to change to a Monoblock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


My tubing is PETG and I didn't do the work because I don't have the skillset(or intestinal fortitude







). I assume it would be a huge pain for them and costly if they had to re alter any of the tubing. I have to bring it in to get my dying pump/res combo replaced anyway so I will ask them how much when I do. They certainly look alot sexier and I assume are better for cooling. I think if I go that crazy I might as well have my RAM water cooled as well and perhaps toss a 950 in there as a boot and block that in as well. I have a sickness...


----------



## mcspawnagain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> My tubing is PETG and I didn't do the work because I don't have the skillset(or intestinal fortitude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I assume it would be a huge pain for them and costly if they had to re alter any of the tubing. I have to bring it in to get my dying pump/res combo replaced anyway so I will ask them how much when I do. They certainly look alot sexier and I assume are better for cooling. I think if I go that crazy I might as well have my RAM water cooled as well and perhaps toss a 950 in there as a boot and block that in as well. I have a sickness...


dont blame you i was too worried to pry heat sinks off my rampageIV hell it takes some fortitude to use water on an electrical componant/s


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Fittings? Check
> Block? Check
> 
> All you'd need is the monoblock(and possibly the mounting kit) and < 2ft of tubing and some intestinal fortitude to change to a Monoblock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I have a sickness...*
Click to expand...

Don't we all?









~Ceadder


----------



## Iceman2733

After seeing all of these monoblocks really makes me regret not getting one now and I just literally finished my build less than a week ago and already you guys gonna force me to tear the cpu loop down and change it all lol.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Don't we all?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Indeed but I couldn't wish for better company!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Don't we all?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Indeed but I couldn't wish for better company!
Click to expand...

Watercoolers Anonymous?


----------



## Ceadderman

No more like...

OCN = Enablers Anonymous.









~Ceadder :drink"


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> After seeing all of these monoblocks really makes me regret not getting one now and I just literally finished my build less than a week ago and already you guys gonna force me to tear the cpu loop down and change it all lol.


Do it, looks so much better...performs same but looks so much better. Mobo does run a little cooler though


----------



## BrjSan

Is there any EK Acrylic tube of 1000mm/1m ?? Y u no do dis .....


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Is there any EK Acrylic tube of 1000mm/1m ?? Y u no do dis .....


There is no EK 1000 mm. But it would be great if so


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Akira. do you guys make custom orders? wanting a Full Water Block for my 980TI in copper/clear....Will pay the Premium.... Or is that just for linus


No sorry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I have the Asus Maximus Gene VIII...a PCH cooler will go great with the Monoblock, i'm looking into cooling the RAM as well.


Sorry we have no plans for it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Is there any EK Acrylic tube of 1000mm/1m ?? Y u no do dis .....


With the amount of 400mm tubes that we sell, I don't think we would sell enough 1000mm to justify it.


----------



## golfleep

Akira,

I don't see it on the EK website, but is there a way to purchase the EK-XRES pump/res combo with a 250 tube instead of the 100 or 140 tube? Seems like a bit of waste to purchase the combo with a tube that I would end up replacing.

Along similar lines, are there any plans for a 250mm glass version? Thanks!


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Fun times


----------



## mcspawnagain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Fun times


wheres the condoms?


----------



## rck1984

Started my first custom watercooling CPU loop about two weeks ago and couldn't resist buying parts to watercool my GPU as well.
Ordered a EK Coolstream PE360, a EK Titan-X acetal/nickel waterblock, a backplate, a dozen fittings and some more ZMT tubing, should go nicely with my Black/grey/red build.

The rig as it is right now, not quite as fancy as some other builds that passed here but i'm happy with it.



Really looking forward adding that radiator and GPU block! I'm even considering a monoblock for my CPU but that probably has to wait for later







Very satisfied with the EK parts so far. A breeze to work with, it looks awesome and performs amazing!


----------



## Ceadderman

I dunno, that's some pretty snazzy cable management.









~Ceadder


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Fun times
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lovely assortment of EK and other goodies.
Including the Mayhems X1 Blood Red coolant, of course.


----------



## Alpina 7

Whats up guys.. For those of you interested, Ive recorded me adding 2 predator 360's to my Corsair 760T along with clear tubing and pastel red coolant. Not the best quality video but it'll have to do







i worked hard on it non the less so i Would appreciate everyone support, likes and shares. Thanks in advance.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfleep*
> 
> Akira,
> 
> I don't see it on the EK website, but is there a way to purchase the EK-XRES pump/res combo with a 250 tube instead of the 100 or 140 tube? Seems like a bit of waste to purchase the combo with a tube that I would end up replacing.
> 
> Along similar lines, are there any plans for a 250mm glass version? Thanks!


Yeah, we don't sell the pump/res combo in 250 sorry









For the glass version, if the sales are doing good on the 100 and 140 we might add the 250 version in the future.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Fun times


Nice


----------



## FXformat

I bought an open item EK Xres 140 D5 Revo pwm. Are these supposed to come with glass reservoirs? Mine is acrylic, wondering if someone switched and then returned.


----------



## saxovtsmike




----------



## elderan

Did a new build last week and one question.

Bought a EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 as part of my setup and I am getting about 245 L/H flow rate. One thing though is I cannot tell if the pumps are running at 100% or what RPM they are running at. I am using a aquaero 6 pro but it does not see the pumps, just seems to power them in addition to the 2 pin power connections.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elderan*
> 
> Did a new build last week and one question.
> 
> Bought a EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 as part of my setup and I am getting about 245 L/H flow rate. One thing though is I cannot tell if the pumps are running at 100% or what RPM they are running at. I am using a aquaero 6 pro but it does not see the pumps, just seems to power them in addition to the 2 pin power connections.


You'll need to do a "Diva Mod" to work properly with the Aquaero, check this post here for more info
http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/6410#post_24748004


----------



## Reaper28

Hey guys, I finally had time to do some dust removal on my rads and when I had tipped the case on it's back I noticed some discoloration on my Supremacy Evo (1150) that too me almost look like burn marks to me?!. My CPU is at 4.7GHz 1.25v and water temp never goes above 7c over ambient. I don't know if it's the nickel peeling off (its a Nickel Plexi block) or what but I'm a little concerned


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yeah, we don't sell the pump/res combo in 250 sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the glass version, if the sales are doing good on the 100 and 140 we might add the 250 version in the future.
> Nice


I really wish you would have I had to buy a 140 and than the 250 tube to make it happen, I like your all in one setup. It does worry me about the way the pump mounts into the rubber grommet with the 250 it kind of leans even with tightening it down all the way .


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I bought an open item EK Xres 140 D5 Revo pwm. Are these supposed to come with glass reservoirs? Mine is acrylic, wondering if someone switched and then returned.


They make two different versions of the pump one with acrylic which is the normal one they have had out but they just recently released a glass edition.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Hey guys, I finally had time to do some dust removal on my rads and when I had tipped the case on it's back I noticed some discoloration on my Supremacy Evo (1150) that too me almost look like burn marks to me?!. My CPU is at 4.7GHz 1.25v and water temp never goes above 7c over ambient. I don't know if it's the nickel peeling off (its a Nickel Plexi block) or what but I'm a little concerned


Pictures Sir, Pictures.

TCO


----------



## kl6mk6

How critical is it to swap out the insert and jet in a supremagy EVO going from a 1150 to a 2011v3 processor? If its not a big deal I will wait until I clean my loop to change it out.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> How critical is it to swap out the insert and jet in a supremagy EVO going from a 1150 to a 2011v3 processor? If its not a big deal I will wait until I clean my loop to change it out.


The jet plate affects how the base of the block bows.

Believe it or not but the base on our EK blocks are not flat but slightly *convex by design*.

The amount of 'bending' is affected by which jetplate is installed which then affects the contact surface between the base of the block and the CPU's IHS. Again this is by design and not a fault etc.

Ideally you would want to change it however it is not really 'mission critical' so to speak - it will only affect cpu temps by a minor amount if you have the incorrect jetplate installed.

Here is my brand new Supremacy EVO with the default 2011 jetplate installed. If I remove the jetplate and reassemble with no jetplate, the block is perfectly flat.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> How critical is it to swap out the insert and jet in a supremagy EVO going from a 1150 to a 2011v3 processor? If its not a big deal I will wait until I clean my loop to change it out.
> 
> 
> 
> The jet plate affects how the base of the block bows.
> 
> Believe it or not but the base on our EK blocks are not flat but slightly *convex by design*.
> 
> The amount of 'bending' is affected by which jetplate is installed which then affects the contact surface between the base of the block and the CPU's IHS. Again this is by design and not a fault etc.
> 
> Ideally you would want to change it however it is not really 'mission critical' so to speak - it will only affect cpu temps by a minor amount if you have the incorrect jetplate installed.
> 
> Here is my brand new Supremacy EVO with the default 2011 jetplate installed. If I remove the jetplate and reassemble with no jetplate, the block is perfectly flat.
Click to expand...

I'm not saying your wrong, but I've never heard that before, and this is the definition from EK's own online glossary:

"Jet (Plate): A nozzle within a water block which increases the liquid flow velocity in order to further aid cooling performance."

...?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> "Jet (Plate): A nozzle within a water block which increases the liquid flow velocity in order to further aid cooling performance."


Yes that's its primary function but you will notice that the jetplates are supplied in varying thicknesses - this adjusts how far the plate bows when assembled.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Yes that's its primary function but you will notice that the jetplates are supplied in varying thicknesses - this adjusts how far the plate bows when assembled.


Got a pic of one?


----------



## Costas

No pic handy but if you Google EK Jetplate a number of hits pop up with pics etc...


----------



## Ceadderman

Anyone know which JP, I should be using with my 1100t and eventually FX-8core CPU? I have the Supreme HF and have all six plates including the blank #5 plate.

I plan to move to Intel in the future but am working out my cooling solution and mod first.









~Ceadder


----------



## mus1mus

The Jet plate for LGA-2011 works pretty well for my FX-8C.







IIRC its JP #1...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I bought an open item EK Xres 140 D5 Revo pwm. Are these supposed to come with glass reservoirs? Mine is acrylic, wondering if someone switched and then returned.


We have versions in acrylic and in glass. So you're all good. Nothing has been swaped. The top and bottom of the reservoir is different between the 2 models so it's not swapable.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Hey guys, I finally had time to do some dust removal on my rads and when I had tipped the case on it's back I noticed some discoloration on my Supremacy Evo (1150) that too me almost look like burn marks to me?!. My CPU is at 4.7GHz 1.25v and water temp never goes above 7c over ambient. I don't know if it's the nickel peeling off (its a Nickel Plexi block) or what but I'm a little concerned


Do you have a picture of it?


----------



## Mads1

Just want to say top marks to EK, my vardar fans arrived with a problem in the hub, a quick email and they sent out replacements, i just wished it was that easy with all companys.


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

Akira, is there a way to procure a new plexi top for a supremacy mx uni copper block. outlet port has a micro crack in mine.



the leak originates in upper part of that plexi outlet above the emblem.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardheadedMurphy*
> 
> Akira, is there a way to procure a new plexi top for a supremacy mx uni copper block. outlet port has a micro crack in mine.
> 
> 
> 
> the leak originates in upper part of that plexi outlet above the emblem.


You need to open a ticket on our website. They will be able to arrange this with you.









Link : Create a support ticket


----------



## Reaper28

@ TheCautiousOne & @ akira749 I'll see if I can get close enough I'm not sure my phone will be able to pick it up. It's at the bottom of the block almost where the molding for the channels end


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> @ TheCautiousOne & @ akira749 I'll see if I can get close enough I'm not sure my phone will be able to pick it up. It's at the bottom of the block almost where the molding for the channels end


Don't do it for me, Do it for yourself. It's the only way we know what you are looking at.

TCO


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

if in the event I need to buy a new top, what is better acetal or plexi?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardheadedMurphy*
> 
> if in the event I need to buy a new top, what is better acetal or plexi?


In terms of Performance or Looks? The Question is a tad broad.

TCO

Plexi if my Fav


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

Durability...


----------



## Reaper28

Here is the best I could do, I circled the area that I'm most concerned about. I looked and their doesn't seem to be anything floating in my res or tubing and all the blocks/rads were flushed before they were used.



http://imgur.com/lYEcwPh




http://imgur.com/8Lt9ubf


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardheadedMurphy*
> 
> Durability...


Acetal has a better record of durability than Plexi. Plexi seems to have a track record of cracking "Possibly" around the fitting holes.

TCO

Reference Here

Ek Reference HEre


----------



## iBruce

Big shout-out to Jeremy at the Modding Dept. at PPCS. He did an amazing job modding this EK UNI pump bracket 120mm Vertical.

Its engineered to allow the user to mount a pump with top or an XRES REVO to a 120mm fan mount with the pump in either vertical or horizontal orientation. I needed the vertical config to utilize some gravity fed D5 isolation using (4) Sorbothane 1.0 inch diameter 30 duro hemispheres, and the bracket legs were so wide really limited the positioning of the XRES and reservoir positioning in the S8S left front chamber (the legs were bumping into the walls of the case), so easy solution, marked and asked Jeremy to please cut off the (120mm) legs.

Jeremy is so amazing he even smoothed the cut edges and applied black enamel over each of the four cut surfaces, WOW, all I can say is WOW, how I felt when he brought it out to me in the PPCS parking lot, looks just like a stock EK part.

He was like "don't touch it yet the enamel is still drying". Whaaaaaa? Enamel? And he only charged $5 dollars, five bucks, fantastic job.

Here are before and after shots.

Now I have greater freedom of movement and many more positioning options and places to mark the cut hole for the res tube to move up through the aluminum.

Also picked up (4) of the Bitspower 16mm deluxe white enhance hard fittings, since only using two hard tubes in the build decided to go large.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3832_zps68pszwsp.jpg.html
http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5322_zpsiokitfc0.jpg.html
http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5325_zpsxkicegzt.jpg.html
http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5327_zpsjaitta6g.jpg.html
http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5326_zpstyzfvyzg.jpg.html


----------



## dilster97

Looking to buy a EK Supremacy EVO and i'm wondering what Jet plate and Insert would give best temperature results.

Also does orientation really matter much?


----------



## rgrwng

for the EK-XRES 100 DDC MX 3.2 PWM, do i need to have both cables used? i cannot seem to get the PWM working for my Rampage 3 Gene motherboard. i am guessing because i am using the MOLEX to power the pump, i should not disconnect it?

the pump seems to always run at 100% (assumed) for now, and is the loudest component in my system


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> Looking to buy a EK Supremacy EVO and i'm wondering what Jet plate and Insert would give best temperature results.
> 
> Also does orientation really matter much?


Follow the included manual (online here: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109800188.pdf) for your socket type. Orientation will have some impact, but I would always advocate ease of plumbing layout in terms of where your ports will be over this for the Supremacy Evo.


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Follow the included manual (online here: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109800188.pdf) for your socket type. Orientation will have some impact, but I would always advocate ease of plumbing layout in terms of where your ports will be over this for the Supremacy Evo.


Mainly just shopping around at this point but do you also have to use the "IN" port as the inlet port?

Since i've my GPUs in parallel and the coolant flowing from the top GPU (right side port) would line up with the outlet port on the block.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> Mainly just shopping around at this point but do you also have to use the "IN" port as the inlet port?
> 
> Since i've my GPUs in parallel and the coolant flowing from the top GPU (right side port) would line up with the outlet port on the block.


You would definitely notice a bigger difference by switching ports vs orienting the blocks either way. I would recommend using the designated inlet as such, but why not flip the block by 180º in case that helps?


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You would definitely notice a bigger difference by switching ports vs orienting the blocks either way. I would recommend using the designated inlet as such, but why not flip the block by 180º in case that helps?


Flipping the block would make sense and probably be more beneficial.

But then the EK logo is flipped upside down. (Which is easily fixed with a custom badge i guess)

Just deciding on what EVO to go for though. Definitely the Plexi top. Take the temp difference between copper and nickel isn't really much?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> Flipping the block would make sense and probably be more beneficial.
> 
> But then the EK logo is flipped upside down. (Which is easily fixed with a custom badge i guess)
> 
> Just deciding on what EVO to go for though. Definitely the Plexi top. Take the temp difference between copper and nickel isn't really much?


Take a heat gun to the badge and pry it off, then reapply it in when you are done finalizing how the block will go. It's just a sticker.

No significant difference in thermal performance between nickel plated copper and pure copper baseplates. It's mostly for aesthetics and if you are a stickler for all copper metal in loops.


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Take a heat gun to the badge and pry it off, then reapply it in when you are done finalizing how the block will go. It's just a sticker.
> 
> No significant difference in thermal performance between nickel plated copper and pure copper baseplates. It's mostly for aesthetics and if you are a stickler for all copper metal in loops.


Thanks for help. I considered the gold for the bling but it is pricey. So i'll probably go for nickel.

GPU blocks are nickel and the rad is copper but some googling says that it's okay to run with them.

Thanks again VSG


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> Flipping the block would make sense and probably be more beneficial.
> 
> But then the EK logo is flipped upside down. (Which is easily fixed with a *custom badge* i guess)
> 
> Just deciding on what EVO to go for though. Definitely the Plexi top. Take the temp difference between copper and nickel isn't really much?


The nickel plexi EVO looks amazing with a silver and white custom badge, copper could be difficult to color match.

Getting ready to apply one of the custom 3D badges to the M8E monoblock, hey geggeg can I goofy mount the monoblock? jk.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4449_zpsc7ia08ge.jpg.html


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> The nickel plexi EVO looks amazing with a silver and white custom badge, copper could be difficult to color match.
> Getting ready to apply one of the custom 3D badges to the M8E monoblock, hey geggeg can I goofy mount the monoblock? jk.


I currently use the Mayhems/EK Pastel Orange. Guess the nickel would look better with that coolant.

Also maybe an orange custom badge...


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> I currently use the Mayhems/EK Pastel Orange. Guess the nickel would look better with that coolant.
> 
> Also maybe an orange custom badge...


Did I hear someone say "custom orange badge"?









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4448_zps1z40wal8.jpg.html

They are raining down from heaven I tell you.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4441_zpsep1urazl.jpg.html


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> I currently use the Mayhems/EK Pastel Orange. Guess the nickel would look better with that coolant.
> 
> Also maybe an orange custom badge...


You won't be able to see the nickel or the copper with Pastel coolant anyway. At most you will see the cold plate from the sides, but even that's not going to be easy once you have other components around the CPU.


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You won't be able to see the nickel or the copper with Pastel coolant anyway. At most you will see the cold plate from the sides, but even that's not going to be easy once you have other components around the CPU.


Yeah guess so.

Throwing an order down for the plexi nickel + orange badge. 2700K can now enjoy a massive rad


----------



## gdubc

EK fun times ahead, stage 1:


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> EK fun times ahead, stage 1:


I love those "about to begin something notorious" photos, stage 1.









How to isolate a REVO and pump, stage 1

How to isolate a heavy industrial blower fan, stage 1

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5336_zpsa2leeiti.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5335_zpssvqwxnmq.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5341_zpsuyaamrwv.jpg.html

Five Vardars in the background:

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5351_zps6czo5c1i.jpg.html


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Big shout-out to Jeremy at the Modding Dept. at PPCS. He did an amazing job modding this EK UNI pump bracket 120mm Vertical.
> 
> Its engineered to allow the user to mount a pump with top or an XRES REVO to a 120mm fan mount with the pump in either vertical or horizontal orientation. I needed the vertical config to utilize some gravity fed D5 isolation using (4) Sorbothane 1.0 inch diameter 30 duro hemispheres, and the bracket legs were so wide really limited the positioning of the XRES and reservoir positioning in the S8S left front chamber (the legs were bumping into the walls of the case), so easy solution, marked and asked Jeremy to please cut off the (120mm) legs.


wow really nice, yeah im planning to do it like this when i transfer my build into a Caselabs S8 in a few weeks.
those 1inch diameter sorbothane feet, how high are they??


----------



## johnd0e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Did I hear someone say "custom orange badge"?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4448_zps1z40wal8.jpg.html
> 
> They are raining down from heaven I tell you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4441_zpsep1urazl.jpg.html


Were can I get these? Need them to match my soc championot board.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> Were can I get these? Need them to match my soc championot board.


Right here, but hurry they only have two packages of five left.









http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-badge-orange-5-pcs.html

OR from EK direct.

I sent (10) to jaystwocents for his SOC build. but not certain if he ever received them.


----------



## johnd0e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Right here, but hurry they only have two packages of five left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-badge-orange-5-pcs.html
> 
> OR from EK direct.


Thanks! I didn't see them anywhere on ek's site. Could have missed them though.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> Were can I get these? Need them to match my soc championot board.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-cpu-blocks/ek-badge-5-pcs.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-badge-orange-5-pcs.html

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/water-blocks/block-spare-parts/other

Could only find Silver & Orange...


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> wow really nice, yeah im planning to do it like this when i transfer my build into a Caselabs S8 in a few weeks.
> those 1inch diameter sorbothane feet, how high are they??


Here's the spec sheet, the height is always equal to half the diameter, so H=D/2. 1 inch hemispheres are 1/2 inch high.

http://www.sorbothane.com/Data/Sites/31/pdfs/product-guides/sorbothane-spg-hemispheres.pdf

More info below

http://www.sorbothane.com/

http://www.isolateit.com/

I always buy them from Amazon, have always used the 50 duro in the past, this current build using the 30 duro for the first time, the lower the duro number, the more sorbothane and the less filler particles.

Also have some 2.5inch hemispheres under my S8S as chassis feet, not that they are needed when all moving parts in the build above are isolated, but just liked the way they looked, very industrial were my thoughts.









Here are some pics of the 1.0inch hemispheres, they arrive with a very sticky 3M adhesive backing, sticks to CaseLabs aluminum and EK hardened steel equally as well.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4662_zpsjbjklpj4.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4660_zpsqocf7i8m.jpg.html


----------



## johnd0e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-cpu-blocks/ek-badge-5-pcs.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-badge-orange-5-pcs.html
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/water-blocks/block-spare-parts/other
> 
> Could only find Silver & Orange...


thanks







cant believe i didnt see them on ek's site, would have been so much easier being on one order since i just ordered a couple fun things from ek this afternoon haha.


----------



## hidethecookies

@akira749 I just bought 6 EK 140mm FF4 Vardar fans and one of them doesn't spin as freely as the others. If I spin them all with my finger using the same force the one stops in half the time as the others. Then when it does stop instead of rocking back and forth because of the magnet, like the other 5, it comes to a complete stop instantly. Its like the bearings are not as smooth. It does go to the max rpm of 2500 fine but I'm worried it might fail early. How long is the warranty?


----------



## xarot

Put my both Ares III cards in the loop with EK-FC Terminal Triple Parallel. Sorry for the poor pic. Both cards use an EK stock waterblock.


----------



## wildzcardz

I have a quick question, kinda stupid but would like to make sure of it. I have a EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 putting together in my loop and was wondering if I use the plastic tube in my res for my pump out doI have to push it pass the o-ring that is placed inside? It seems very tight to push by and did not want to add lots of pressure as of yet because it felt like I was going to break something.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wildzcardz*
> 
> I have a quick question, kinda stupid but would like to make sure of it. I have a EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 putting together in my loop and was wondering if I use the plastic tube in my res for my pump out doI have to push it pass the o-ring that is placed inside? It seems very tight to push by and did not want to add lots of pressure as of yet because it felt like I was going to break something.


That tube is not for the pump, it's there to help prevent a vortex in your reservoir. The res comes with that tube, a sponge, or a paddle shaped like the EK logo. By default, it would be best to use the "paddle". The pump ports are on the pump housing, clearly marked "in" and "out". When the fluid returns to the pump it overflows into the res, and in turn, gravity keeps the pump fed with fluid from the res, but that pump top is not designed to use the res as an inlet.


----------



## johnd0e

What do you guys think about running an EK predator 360 and ek predator 240 in the same loop? How well do ddc pumps work/last when you have two feeding the same loop?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> What do you guys think about running an EK predator 360 and ek predator 240 in the same loop? How well do ddc pumps work/last when you have two feeding the same loop?


No different than any other dual pumps in series. You can still have them at full speed and benefit from higher head pressure and flow rate in the single loop as always, or lower speeds if pump noise is an issue.


----------



## johnd0e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No different than any other dual pumps in series. You can still have them at full speed and benefit from higher head pressure and flow rate in the single loop as always, or lower speeds if pump noise is an issue.


alrite thats good to know thank you.


----------



## iBruce

EK XRES REVO, what a beautiful well engineered sku, wish ThermalBench.com would do a pumptop round-up comparing the XRES to the EK stand-alone tops.

EK makes the best selection of pump and res UNI mounts in my opinion, at least for gravity fed D5 isolation all forces using a vertical vector.

"Vertical Vector Victor" think that's a line from that old film Airplane!, hilarious.









http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xres-100-revo-d5-reservoir-acetal.html

I hope enthusiasts aren't put off by the small size of the stock res tube, buy one of the 3 larger tubes 100% compatible with this sku, and bleed your rig like a madman.









It really looks good inside the case, and so much more room *after Jeremy's mod* to move around without bumping into the side walls and internal rad mount lateral to this view.

Cannot see the Sorbothane feet in this pic but they're under there, doing their job.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5358_zps2wterpop.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5361_zpsfpcncrol.jpg.html

Uggggh, didn't believe would ever find a portion of this hobby I didn't enjoy until today, off to Home Depot to pick up some AWG24 gauge wire strippers, the hobby knife cuts right through the insulation just fine but also cuts the small wires right off, massive frustration, Uggggh.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5354_zpspky3jnfr.jpg.html


----------



## VSG

As far as I know, it uses the same top design as the new standalone D5 top fromm EK. There shouldn't be any performance difference.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> As far as I know, it uses the same top design as the new standalone D5 top fromm EK. There shouldn't be any performance difference.


Any performance advantage at all using a separate reservoir and pump top vs the XRES REVO?

To me it seems like the ideal physical setup to vertically prime the D5, and keep unwanted air from entering the loop, and I hope it is without any measurable performance hit.

Do you concur Doctor?


----------



## VSG

I always prefer having separate reservoirs and pumps for multiple reasons, including having them separate allows you to have the pump anywhere you want and also not have the reservoir restricted to a particular pump type.

I don't know if anyone has found a performance or usage difference between these two setups, assuming the exact same pump top design.


----------



## iBruce

I understand both those advantages, but I'll only ever use a D5 pump not a DDC, and featuring the pump separately was considered briefly, have the EK REVO plexi top here and a separate EK white POM res but aesthetically and holding to theme wanted to feature in the midbay, looking down through the full window top panel the A6 instead of the pump and top. With cables so tidily managed along with the non-linear untimed blinking data transmission led it looks like an industrial switchbox. And the PA3U next to it with that oh so soothing indiscriminate blue glow outputing randomly, decided the pump and top would remain behind the scenes under the midchassis with all the soft tubing runs and radiator connections, keeping the visible upper chamber clean beautiful simple minimalistic and purposeful.


----------



## wildzcardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> That tube is not for the pump, it's there to help prevent a vortex in your reservoir. The res comes with that tube, a sponge, or a paddle shaped like the EK logo. By default, it would be best to use the "paddle". The pump ports are on the pump housing, clearly marked "in" and "out". When the fluid returns to the pump it overflows into the res, and in turn, gravity keeps the pump fed with fluid from the res, but that pump top is not designed to use the res as an inlet.


I can use this tube. You missed my whole question. You have to put a o ring in the pump for it... basically does it sit on the o ring or does it pass it. Passing it through the o ring seems tuff.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I understand both those advantages, but I'll only ever use a D5 pump not a DDC, and featuring the pump separately was considered briefly, have the EK REVO plexi top here and a separate EK white POM res but aesthetically and holding to theme wanted to feature in the midbay, looking down through the full window top panel the A6 instead of the pump and top. With cables so tidily managed along with the non-linear untimed blinking data transmission led it looks like an industrial switchbox. And the PA3U next to it with that oh so soothing indiscriminate blue glow outputing randomly, decided the pump and top would remain behind the scenes under the midchassis with all the soft tubing runs and radiator connections, keeping the visible upper chamber clean beautiful simple minimalistic and purposeful.


Looks like you have made a decision already


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Here is the best I could do, I circled the area that I'm most concerned about. I looked and their doesn't seem to be anything floating in my res or tubing and all the blocks/rads were flushed before they were used.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/lYEcwPh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/8Lt9ubf


It's hard to say from the pictures. And the red led's don't help. Is your coolant clear? If it is, could you disconnect the leds and re-take the picture?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> @akira749 I just bought 6 EK 140mm FF4 Vardar fans and one of them doesn't spin as freely as the others. If I spin them all with my finger using the same force the one stops in half the time as the others. Then when it does stop instead of rocking back and forth because of the magnet, like the other 5, it comes to a complete stop instantly. Its like the bearings are not as smooth. It does go to the max rpm of 2500 fine but I'm worried it might fail early. How long is the warranty?


Warranty is 2 years.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's hard to say from the pictures. And the red led's don't help. Is your coolant clear? If it is, could you disconnect the leds and re-take the picture?
> Warranty is 2 years.


I can turn the red led's off but once I do you won't be able to see anything and the flash on my phone will just distort the picture more. I'm running distilled water. I'll see if I can get a better picture or angle later


----------



## 742db7736

Here's my first custom water cooling build! It started off as an Ek l240 2.0 kit and I added on from there.

Ek Coolstream PE 360 40mm rad- 3 Ek vardar f3 120mm fans in push as intake.

Ek Coolstream PE 240 40mm rad- 2 Ek vardar f3 120mm fans in push as exhaust.

1 Corsar Af 120 fan as exhaust.

Ek Supremacy Mx cpu waterblock.

Ek ddc Mx 3.1 with XSPC plexi top.

Ek-res X3 150 Reservoir.

Ek-FC7970 waterblock and Backplate.

XSPC 3/8 X 5/8 compression and angle fittings.


----------



## orvils

Do EK sell dual DDC top? I could only find one that is sold with pumps. (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-dual-ddc-3-2-pwm-incl-2x-)
Would really love to get it. Otherwise I would need to buy aquacomputer one and paint the top plate black. But I like the looks of EK better.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orvils*
> 
> Do EK sell dual DDC top? I could only find one that is sold with pumps. (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-dual-ddc-3-2-pwm-incl-2x-)
> Would really love to get it. Otherwise I would need to buy aquacomputer one and paint the top plate black. But I like the looks of EK better.


As far as i know they don't sell one separately. I connected 2 pumps together to get the same effect.
In my Caselabs S3 it just barely fit.



It's a bit older this picture I changed it around a bit again. But should give you an idea maybe!


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *742db7736*
> 
> Here's my first custom water cooling build! It started off as an Ek l240 2.0 kit and I added on from there.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ek Coolstream PE 360 40mm rad- 3 Ek vardar f3 120mm fans in push as intake.
> 
> Ek Coolstream PE 240 40mm rad- 2 Ek vardar f3 120mm fans in push as exhaust.
> 
> 1 Corsar Af 120 fan as exhaust.
> 
> Ek Supremacy Mx cpu waterblock.
> 
> Ek ddc Mx 3.1 with XSPC plexi top.
> 
> Ek-res X3 150 Reservoir.
> 
> Ek-FC7970 waterblock and Backplate.
> 
> XSPC 3/8 X 5/8 compression and angle fittings.


Nicely done! The AIR540 is a good case for first run.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's hard to say from the pictures. And the red led's don't help. Is your coolant clear? If it is, could you disconnect the leds and re-take the picture?
> Warranty is 2 years.
> 
> 
> 
> I can turn the red led's off but once I do you won't be able to see anything and the flash on my phone will just distort the picture more. I'm running distilled water. I'll see if I can get a better picture or angle later
Click to expand...

You just need a better lighting. Do you have desk lamp? Adjust & re-adjust the lighting until you able to capture the thing you want to show us.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orvils*
> 
> Do EK sell dual DDC top? I could only find one that is sold with pumps. (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-dual-ddc-3-2-pwm-incl-2x-)
> Would really love to get it. Otherwise I would need to buy aquacomputer one and paint the top plate black. But I like the looks of EK better.


xspc and watercool do dual tops if thats any use to you.


----------



## rck1984

The badge on an EK Coolstream PE360, is it just an adhesive badge and easily removable?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orvils*
> 
> Do EK sell dual DDC top? I could only find one that is sold with pumps. (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-dual-ddc-3-2-pwm-incl-2x-)
> Would really love to get it. Otherwise I would need to buy aquacomputer one and paint the top plate black. But I like the looks of EK better.


I'm selling one in the OCN Marketplace. Complete with 2 DDC-1T pumps. Pre CSQ even.









~Ceadder


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> The badge on an EK Coolstream PE360, is it just an adhesive badge and easily removable?


Use a heat gun or hair drier, should come off fairly easy.


----------



## zerophase

I'm trying to install the EK supremacy evo with Indigo xtreme on my 5960x, and my cpu is overheating during boot up. My Flow Meter is indicating the pumps are pushing water through. I'm trying to get the computer up for a reflow. Anyone know if this is a known issue?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I'm trying to install the EK supremacy evo with *Indigo xtreme* on my 5960x, and my cpu is overheating during boot up. My Flow Meter is indicating the pumps are pushing water through. I'm trying to get the computer up for a reflow. Anyone know if this is a known issue?


SketchyCat Says "That Sounds Sketchy"

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/giphy_zpsudhngl41.gif.html

I would PM someone from EK with that question and if the two of you cannot figure it out, then just use some of the TG Kryonaut (link below), that's what I use, and that's what the NASA astronauts use, it offers even better results in zero gravity.










http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/16-kryonaut-en

.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You just need a better lighting. Do you have desk lamp? Adjust & re-adjust the lighting until you able to capture the thing you want to show us.


I might use my white LED strip to light up the case/block area not sure how my phone will pick it up though with the light it might make it grainy


----------



## JCArch

Anyone have any idea when the EK-AF 90 degree adapters will be back in stock, or know where I can purchase some? I'm one adapter away from completing my build and I can't find them for sale *anywhere,* even eBay has failed me.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Anyone have any idea when the EK-AF 90 degree adapters will be back in stock, or know where I can purchase some? I'm one adapter away from completing my build and I can't find them for sale *anywhere,* even eBay has failed me.


I have two hanging around I'll never use, PM me your delivery info if you are in the US and I'll mail them, OR better yet (better for me) order something you need from PPCS and I'll drive them down and they can drop them into your shipment.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5404_zps15arjbxq.jpg.html


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I have two hanging around I'll never use, PM me your delivery info if you are in the US and I'll mail them, OR better yet (better for me) order something you need from PPCS and I'll drive them down and they can drop them into your shipment.
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5404_zps15arjbxq.jpg.html


Wow, that'd be fantastic! I'll PM you with details.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> SketchyCat Says "That Sounds Sketchy"
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/giphy_zpsudhngl41.gif.html
> 
> I would PM someone from EK with that question and if the two of you cannot figure it out.


Checked the system with Noctua's TIM, and everything cooled fine. Last time I tried Indigo Xtreme on a 5930k, I was sitting around 50°c prior to doing the reflow.


----------



## zerophase

I was unscrewing the thumb nuts on the Supremacy EVO to reapply thermal paste, and it looks like one of the posts came loose. The thumb nut won't come off. I tried gripping the base of the post with a pair of pliers, but the post is still spinning, as the spring is in the way. I'd pull hard on the block, but I'm not sure if it's loose. Anyone know how I could get the thumb nut off?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I was unscrewing the thumb nuts on the Supremacy EVO to reapply thermal paste, and it looks like one of the posts came loose. The thumb nut won't come off. I tried gripping the base of the post with a pair of pliers, but the post is still spinning, as the spring is in the way. I'd pull hard on the block, but I'm not sure if it's loose. Anyone know how I could get the thumb nut off?


It's likely gotten cross threaded somehow. You might try pulling your board and using a screwdriver to stabilize the post at the back and using your fingers to break it free from the post. If not abe to do that the only way to deal with it is to remove that screw hlding that post and carefully deal with it away from the board so you don't fudge your block.









Not sure how to remove the block if your board(RIVE) doesn't have mounting holes through it however. The above is how you would do it if your board has them.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

If you are sure that the post is loose just remove from the board and fix it away from the board..


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's likely gotten cross threaded somehow. You might try pulling your board and using a screwdriver to stabilize the post at the back and using your fingers to break it free from the post. If not abe to do that the only way to deal with it is to remove that screw hlding that post and carefully deal with it away from the board so you don't fudge your block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure how to remove the block if your board(RIVE) doesn't have mounting holes through it however. The above is how you would do it if your board has them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Managed to confirm the post was loose, and a light twist and lift got the block off eventually. Turns out it was just the thermal paste keeping it stuck on.

Afterwards I noticed some of the other posts were coming from unscrewing thumb nuts over time. Next time I'll check if the posts are loose before putting the thumb nuts on.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

While tearing down my rig today i discovered a nasty surprise on my EK supremacy evo nickel/plexi block.



As you can see in the pic the plexi has cracked, almost shattered, around the threads. The cracks are deep within the plexi, not on the surface. I know plexi can crack if fittings are overtightened so i never went past finger tight using EK ACF softube fittings. Needless to say, i'm surprised that this happened. I have EK nickel plexi ram block, 2 nickel plexi gpu blocks, and a plexi gpu terminal and none of those parts have this problem.

Anyone else have this happen to them? Already put in a support ticket to EK, hopefully they'll replace the damaged cover. Block is less than 6 months old.


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

Little bit of ghetto rigging, but this will have to do until I can get a couple of Thermaltake X9 chasis for my Gaming\folding pc.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









My Fan Controller -> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811997017
WC Kit is ---> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-l360-r2-0
I replaced the plexi top with Acetal from performancepcs and couldn't be happier.


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

Yes, yes I did... I ended up just just buying a new top instead of waiting on rma. was quicker... more that I would have liked to pay, but in the end, it doesnt matter when performance is my only bad habit these days


----------



## Edge0fsanity

ek got back to me real fast, said it was from overtightening. Can't say i disagree, can't imagine it happening otherwise. Guess i have really strong fingers. Anyways, they're only charging 10eur for the cover. Shipping to the states was almost double that though


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Wow, that'd be fantastic! I'll PM you with details.


All set up with PPCS, I will drive over the fittings this afternoon.

Nice efficient transfer of much needed water parts, is what I call that. Very slick.









Enjoy the fittings...


----------



## Infrasonic

Hey EK fans. I'm not sure if this is the most appropriate thread for the question but here it goes...

What is the current consensus on the EK Predator line? I have been following the 'leakage' situation a bit. Heard they had a major recall on the whole line.

I was wondering if they fixed this? Is it okay to get a Predator AIO now?

I ask because I'm interested in a watercooling system and really thought about doing a custom loop but if I can get similar results with a nice AIO I'd rather do that than have to work out a custom loop, as satisfying as it may be. Though I haven't completely ruled it out. Just thinking about all the angles of how to tackle my upcoming new build.

Thanks.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrasonic*
> 
> Hey EK fans. I'm not sure if this is the most appropriate thread for the question but here it goes...
> 
> What is the current consensus on the EK Predator line? I have been following the 'leakage' situation a bit. Heard they had a major recall on the whole line.
> 
> I was wondering if they fixed this? Is it okay to get a Predator AIO now?
> 
> I ask because I'm interested in a watercooling system and really thought about doing a custom loop but if I can get similar results with a nice AIO I'd rather do that than have to work out a custom loop, as satisfying as it may be. Though I haven't completely ruled it out. Just thinking about all the angles of how to tackle my upcoming new build.
> 
> Thanks.


Custom builds are better imo. If a single part fails you just deal with that part. If a part fails in an AIO you will be tearing the whole unit out and sending it back. Knowing that everything has been tightened and installed by you with your personal care is worth it in my mind.


----------



## Infrasonic

It will be my first WC system so I figure I rule out any issues that I myself might cause out of inexperience. Plus, it just sounded easier for my mind to work out an AIO system.

Thanks.


----------



## johnd0e

Spent a few dollars on ek's website.....the full nickel evo x99 block is so sexy.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> 
> 
> Spent a few dollars on ek's website.....the full nickel evo x99 block is so sexy.


Very Schweet Pahts.









Congratulations


----------



## johnd0e

Alrite so I got abother quick question. I decided I'm just going to do a custom loop since I'm basically going to be overhauling my watercooling anyways.

The new loop is going to have my 3 gpu blocks, a bridge, a cpu block, a standalone tube res, and two 360 rads (one 60mm, one 30mm) Would a single D5 do a good job or should I spend the extra and get the dual d5 pump?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> Alrite so I got abother quick question. I decided I'm just going to do a custom loop since I'm basically going to be overhauling my watercooling anyways.
> 
> The new loop is going to have my 3 gpu blocks, a bridge, a cpu block, a standalone tube res, and two 360 rads (one 60mm, one 30mm) Would a single D5 do a good job or should I spend the extra and get the dual d5 pump?


One pump is enough, use two of you want a failsafe.


----------



## johnd0e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> One pump is enough, use two of you want a failsafe.


At what point would one pump not be enough? I kind of like the idea of failsafe, but still undecided.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> One pump is enough, use two of you want a failsafe.
> 
> 
> 
> At what point would one pump not be enough? I kind of like the idea of failsafe, but still undecided.
Click to expand...

If you have copious amounts of 90* bends/fittings.









~Ceadder


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you have copious amounts of 90* bends/fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


How many is copious amounts? I have a dead pump at the moment and was considering going with two for a redundancy so I don't have to deal with this again. Problem is I don't think I have room anywhere to fit a second pump unless there is a dual pump/res combo out there.


----------



## VSG

There are dual pump bay reservoirs if you want.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> How many is copious amounts? I have a dead pump at the moment and was considering going with two for a redundancy so I don't have to deal with this again. Problem is I don't think I have room anywhere to fit a second pump unless there is a dual pump/res combo out there.


Find a way and just do it


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> *Find a way and just do it*


Quote of the Day. Right here.

TCO


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> How many is copious amounts? I have a dead pump at the moment and was considering going with two for a redundancy so I don't have to deal with this again. Problem is I don't think I have room anywhere to fit a second pump unless there is a dual pump/res combo out there.
> 
> 
> 
> Find a way and just do it
Click to expand...

This ^^^








I have a dual D5 setup, and wouldn't have it any other way.
Mainly for redundancy, yes, but that's a good thing.


----------



## thrgk

Ek has a dual d5 pump. It's like $250 I forgot what it's called

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> Ek has a dual d5 pump. It's like $250 I forgot what it's called
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


*EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial*

She's a beauty in my eyes, but that stupid pump bundle they make you buy, who thought of that? EK BackOffice Accounting, that's who.

They make you buy two pumps you don't want. Grrrrrrrrrrrr.
















If they sold the part separately (like they should) it would retail for somewhere in the $120 to $150 range without the pumps. Now THAT part I would buy.

(and add two AquaComputer D5s)

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/EKRES-X3-150-Lite_fit2_800_v1_zpshlpwpkw6.jpg.html

PLUS: all that wonderful symmetry would make it so easy to isolate.









.


----------



## johnd0e

putting together my parts list on ppc, going to go with the dual pump. now my biggest decision is whether or not i want to do a hard tube loop with some mayhems aurora silver coolant dyed orange.....im leaning toward doing it, but that means im not going to build the loop till after broadwell-e comes out, becuase i dont want to drain the loop and take it apart to change the cpu in a couple months.


----------



## Ceadderman

You'd be draining it anyway if you go with Aurora iirc. I've never used the stuff, but it has micro/nano particles in it.









~Ceadder


----------



## johnd0e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You'd be draining it anyway if you go with Aurora iirc. I've never used the stuff, but it has micro/nano particles in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


no good? i just like it for the aesthetics. but if its crap then screw it ill do something else.

EDIT: nevermind, just did some reading on it, appears to have problems loosing particle suspension cuasing problems. guess im staying away from that stuff.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> *EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial*
> 
> She's a beauty in my eyes, but that stupid pump bundle they make you buy, who thought of that? EK BackOffice Accounting, that's who.
> 
> They make you buy two pumps you don't want. Grrrrrrrrrrrr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If they sold the part separately (like they should) it would retail for somewhere in the $120 to $150 range without the pumps. Now THAT part I would buy.
> 
> (and add two AquaComputer D5s)
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/EKRES-X3-150-Lite_fit2_800_v1_zpshlpwpkw6.jpg.html
> 
> PLUS: all that wonderful symmetry would make it so easy to isolate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


i'm right with you on this. I have two AC D5s and wanted to buy it but did not because it comes bundled with pumps i do not need nor want to pay for. If they ever offer it without the pumps and even better with the fitting and res bottom to use with my current res i'd buy it immediately. It would clean up my build significantly.


----------



## SteezyTN

Does EK sell the revo dual D5 TOP separate? I'm thinking about getting rid of my XSPC Photon pump combo, and just getting separate reservoirs.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope. Bundled with Pump/Pumps only.









~Ceadder


----------



## Thoth420

Well damn that thing is ugly in contrast to my current res/pump combo but if I put it in the longway in should fit. There would be an ugly sticker facing my window though....OCD alarms are going off. Do they make a big EK sticker or something to cover that up?
Redundancy is something I love(because OCD as well) but at the loss of the aesthetics...my rear exhaust fan sticker is already bothering me.

Anyways cheers guys! So many SKU's and I don't really know what is all compatible with what since I didn't do this cooling array on my own. I will consult the shop about a dual pump config without ruining the aesthetic beauty that is Kung Fury X. As always thank you all for the assistance...sometimes me and google aren't enough to come to a decision. I would make a terrible CEO, very indecisive.


----------



## Costas

Its a pity they dropped their Dual CSQ pump tops as IMO these were the bomb...


Sitting pretty inside my SMA8


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Its a pity they dropped their Dual CSQ pump tops as IMO these were the bomb...
> 
> 
> Sitting pretty inside my SMA8


Those aren't around anymore? I doubt I would have had space without removing my HDD and stashing SSD's somewhere like the back panel, adding tubing and obv getting an independent res. I think I will just cross my fingers and replace the one I have now with a working model and waste money on a monoblock instead. Smexy looking though I do like that...shame it's not around.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Those aren't around anymore?


Yeh EK made them 'End of Life' when they released their current XTOP-REVO series.

I really don't like the mating of the two cylinders (horizontal top & vertical res) on the dual XTOP pump setup. It just looks unbalanced - as if the res is just not meant to 'sit there'. To me it simply looks out of place.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Its a pity they dropped their Dual CSQ pump tops as IMO these were the bomb...
> 
> 
> Sitting pretty inside my SMA8


I was so close to getting this over my XSPC photon combos, but decided I wanted the pump combos in the top compartment of my SMA8. It's a shame the EOL'd it. Too bad they don't sell the revo dual either? I don't need the pumps lol.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Too bad they don't sell the revo dual either? I don't need the pumps lol.


EKWB made a decision to sell their tops complete with pumps.

Which is odd in that many of us utilise Aquaero devices and then mate the Aquacomputer USB/MPS bus equipped D5's to the Aquaero. In this case it may simply force people to other vendors for their pump tops.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> EKWB made a decision to sell their tops complete with pumps.
> 
> Which is odd in that many of us utilise Aquaero devices and then mate the Aquacomputer USB/MPS bus equipped D5's to the Aquaero. In this case it may simply force people to other vendors for their pump tops.


I didn't mean to make the a "?". I should've boughten that top when I had the option to. When I decide to use regular reservoirs, I may just have the option to only buy the bitspower dual D5. I love my single revo d5 top. That thing is wondering.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> EKWB made a decision to sell their tops complete with pumps.
> 
> Which is odd in that many of us utilise Aquaero devices and then mate the Aquacomputer USB/MPS bus equipped D5's to the Aquaero. In this case it may simply force people to other vendors for their pump tops.


That is a shame. For instance that Inwin chassis the 904 I believe has an independent bay for a standalone reservoir(even seen some really awesome mod res in that bay). I wanted independent....should have went with the 904 in hindsight.


----------



## fast_fate

If *everyone who reads this thread comments* about "_EK should sell a dual D5 top without the pumps_" we'll see it happen sooner rather than later


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> If *everyone who reads this thread comments* about "_EK should sell a dual D5 top without the pumps_" we'll see it happen sooner rather than later


Does this mean Ek will see the dual top without the pump? lol.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Does this mean Ek will see the dual top without the pump? lol.


If enough people are making noise about it, I see no reason why EK would ignore their customers


----------



## Kylar182

Is the site down right now? I can't login... No idea why, tried multiple browsers. Any news from EK?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> If enough people are making noise about it, I see no reason why EK would ignore their customers


I definitely "need" one of those dual pump tops.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kylar182*
> 
> Is the site down right now? I can't login... No idea why, tried multiple browsers. Any news from EK?


Working OK for me - I placed an order for some items about 2 hrs ago....


----------



## Kylar182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Working OK for me - I placed an order for some items about 2 hrs ago....


Yeah it started working :30 minutes after this post. Must've had a server outage


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Its a pity they dropped their Dual CSQ pump tops as IMO these were the bomb...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sitting pretty inside my SMA8
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Those aren't around anymore? I doubt I would have had space without removing my HDD and stashing SSD's somewhere like the back panel, adding tubing and obv getting an independent res. I think I will just cross my fingers and replace the one I have now with a working model and waste money on a monoblock instead. Smexy looking though I do like that...shame it's not around.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I was so close to getting this over my XSPC photon combos, but decided I wanted the pump combos in the top compartment of my SMA8. It's a shame the EOL'd it. Too bad they don't sell the revo dual either? I don't need the pumps lol.


It is still possible to get this old type dual pump top their are a few floating around!!


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> EKWB made a decision to sell their tops complete with pumps.
> 
> Which is odd in that *many of us utilise Aquaero devices and then mate the Aquacomputer USB/MPS bus equipped D5's to the Aquaero. In this case it may simply force people to other vendors for their pump tops.*


This is exactly what's happening over and again, and EK knew this from the beginning, and we all understand the matter of designing a new sku and return on investment expected to compensate the man hours needed, we get that part, so if they coupled newly launched skus with pumps for only the first 90 to 120, we would most likely understand that also, but to bundle a pump top with a pump and make your customers pay for a pump they do not want all the way until the EOL of a sku is just a money grab, and a disgusting notion and act towards the community that funds them.

Didn't happen? Yes it did, I purchased the older D5 plexi clean top and stupid LOWARA D5 PWM pump, *that won't work with the Aquaero* and I didn't want last year just so I could get the plexi clean and NOT the plexi with the silly circles all over it, and that sku remained bundled to a pump all the way to EOL. (pic below)

EK knows a great many in the community rely on Aquaeros for system control because they (at the moment) do not offer a comparable product. We choose EK pump tops and XRES REVOs top/ reservoirs over the AquaComputer tops, that fact alone should remain under strong consideration when marketing or accounting decides on packaging a new sku, we give to EK money and lots of it, they in turn should understand our needs formed of basic necessity and give back to us.

If we keep this (NO PUMP BUNDLE) rant going until the workday begins on Monday maybe the EK-CEO, I think his name is Mark, will give the this matter and the community greater consideration.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3782_zps2hiqplnw.jpg.html

IF EK feels the need for initial ROI, then at least bundle the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial with theEK-RES X3 150 Lite, the reservoir made for the Dual Serial Top, that's a bundle most of the community would feel good about purchasing, the res is unique to the dual top, and it plays nice with an Aquaero 6.









Bundle the RES X3 150 Lite with the dual D5 top, it's a compromise over selling the dual top alone, but still much more appealing to consumers than forcing us to purchase pumps that DO NOT WORK with our chosen system controller, the A6.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-150-lite

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/ekres-x3-150-lite_tube_800_zpsleyfzkh2.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/EKRES-X3-150-Lite_fit2_800_v1_zpshlpwpkw6.jpg.html

EK needs to understand when some of us go out on a rant, it's only because we care so much are so passionate about your products.


----------



## smicha

I wrote about it long long time ago and EK gives **** about it. I am leaving EK wherever I can. My current build - 7 watercooled 980ti workstation - coming soon - will be almost purely based on aquacomputer.

EK what is wrong with you?


----------



## seross69

yeah you guys are right I think I will be using Aqua-computer parts from now on because at least I can buy the tops with out the pumps!!


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> I wrote about it long long time ago and EK gives **** about it. I am leaving EK wherever I can. My current build - 7 watercooled 980ti workstation - coming soon - will be almost purely based on aquacomputer.
> 
> *EK what is wrong with you?*


I've had those same feelings, and I've left many EK products for good. Now, I'm down to only EK water blocks; M8E monoblock and XRES REVO, also a water block, and the attached reservoir.

I'm also using 5 Vardar 120 ER PWMs, although I'm considering returning back to my beloved Sanyo Denki 9S1212M1011s Silent S-Type DC fans, only holding on because Sanyo does not make a comparable PWM version widely available in the US.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> If enough people are making noise about it, I see no reason why EK would ignore their customers


One can only hope.

EK has heard us, this has been commented on since they started the bundling policy.
So far they have chosen to ignore the discord.
But the bungled bundle grumbling grows.

I am a HUGE EK fanboy, and I want them to be around for all my system mods... but atm I fear for them.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

If they want to bundle all their pumps with their products they need to make a competitive aquaero like device. Simple as that, although i'm not sure they can at this point. I won't use products that do not work with it or require me to mod connectors and waste fan slots. I absolutely love their blocks, XE rads, res's and pump tops but bundling kills it. I even loved the D5 pump from them that i had, it was a lot quieter than my AC ones. Aquacomputer and others will get more of my money as time goes on if they continue this.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> If *everyone who reads this thread comments* about "_EK should sell a dual D5 top without the pumps_" we'll see it happen sooner rather than later


EK have their own agenda, and in large part, it revolves around making sure that EK products are as Unfriendly to AC products as possible, so as to promote the yet vaporware Signalkuppe.

They know a lot of builders with EK components also use Aquaeros, and they'd like to make that stop, (or at least be a much smaller percentage) so you have to buy your controller from them.

In a way, it's a good business strategy, not really unlike AC's, . . . but the Aquaero is so far ahead in product development and user acceptance, that trying to supplant it is a pipe dream on EK's part, and pursuing that path is only going to backfire spectacularly.

Darlene


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Its a pity they dropped their Dual CSQ pump tops as IMO these were the bomb...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sitting pretty inside my SMA8


Wow, i need to find one of those used. That looks awesome.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> EK have their own agenda, and in large part, it revolves around making sure that EK products are as Unfriendly to AC products as possible, so as to promote the yet vaporware Signalkuppe.
> 
> They know a lot of builders with EK components also use Aquaeros, and they'd like to make that stop, (or at least be a much smaller percentage) so you have to buy your controller from them.
> 
> In a way, it's a good business strategy, not really unlike AC's, . . . but the Aquaero is so far ahead in product development and user acceptance, that trying to supplant it is a pipe dream on EK's part, and pursuing that path is only going to backfire spectacularly.
> 
> Darlene


why would they support this business model now when their signalkuppe controller is in fact vaporware? It doesn't make sense. They've got to be losing money to some extent over it. Why not adopt the business model once that thing is a reality and on the market?


----------



## gdubc

Monsoons newer MMRS system has dual d5 options as well.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Monsoons newer MMRS system has dual d5 options as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


But that is dual loop only, not in series. You need 2 reservoirs for series.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> But that is dual loop only, not in series. You need 2 reservoirs for series.


actually you can use this in series if you want!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> But that is dual loop only, not in series. *You need 2 reservoirs for series*.


Please, Enlighten me.

TCO


----------



## InfoSeeker

As to bundling, the only way bundling will work is if they sell the individual items, and give the bundle a price break.

The Pump costs x
The volute costs y

Buy the pump & volute in a bundle, and the bundle costs (x+y)-10%

Good for everybody, If I have a pump, fine, if not, the EK bundle looks good.

AND, they could offer an Intel compliant PWM pump.

Grumbling gone.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> actually you can use this in series if you want!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Please, Enlighten me.
> 
> TCO


I am not a hydraulic engineer, so I may be wrong, but in looking at it I see the loop return line discharging into one of the reservoir's center ports.
Then you take the discharge of the first pump and plumb it to the other center port, pressuring the reservoir up.
The increased pressure in the reservoir will cause back pressure against the return end of the loop.
So now, you have the output of the first pump fighting the output of the second pump.

Just doesn't seem like it would work so well.


----------



## iBruce

Now is probably a good time for a *what if*, something slightly parallel and allegorical.

CaseLabs is now putting the finishing design cues and visionary conceptual touches on a brand new line of smaller more portable cases, including iTX, mATX, and a full ATX/EATX versions, called the Bullet Series.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1594644/something-small-and-wicked-this-way-comes

Now *what if* CaseLabs suddenly announced they would only offer the new Bullet Series bundled with an 80 Plus bronze rated 750watt Silverstone PSU, and that bundle increased the purchase price by $100.

All three versions the BH2, the BH4, and the BH7, all selling for $169, $189, and $229 respectively would now cost, $269, $289, and $329, since their accounting department decided (in a back room somewhere) they could make higher margins if they moved large quantities of unwanted PSUs out the door, even though they knew 95% of their loyal customers who wanted the new Bullet cases did not want the POS PSUs.

The community would be *outraged and screaming*, *a fire storm* would ensue, and CaseLab's favorability rating would decrease significantly, maybe drop to the psychological level of boycott.

Of course CaseLabs would NEVER do what's just been described, since the above hypothetical is ludicrous.

Yet, EK is already committing this disrespectful disgraceful act of forcing their loyal customers to purchase an unwanted undesired item, 2 items in fact (raising the cost by 250%) in order to receive an item they do want, an analogy to the above so similar if not equally the same.

Ever notice analogous is made up of two words, anal + ogous? What, ogous isn't a word? Well it certainly should be. I feel extremely ogous almost immediately, whenever I have to send EK $249 USD for a $99 bundled water part.

"Boycott the Bundle"

"Don't Bind Me EK"

How the EK pump bundle makes me feel.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> EK have their own agenda, and in large part, it revolves around making sure that EK products are as Unfriendly to AC products as possible, so as to promote the yet vaporware Signalkuppe.
> 
> They know a lot of builders with EK components also use Aquaeros, and they'd like to make that stop, (or at least be a much smaller percentage) so you have to buy your controller from them.
> 
> In a way, it's a good business strategy, not really unlike AC's, . . . but the Aquaero is so far ahead in product development and user acceptance, that trying to supplant it is a pipe dream on EK's part, and pursuing that path is only going to backfire spectacularly.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> why would they support this business model now when their signalkuppe controller is in fact vaporware? It doesn't make sense. They've got to be losing money to some extent over it. Why not adopt the business model once that thing is a reality and on the market?
Click to expand...

Look back at EK's new product introductions over the last year or two, and it's clear that they are endeavoring to become a 1 stop source for any potential liquid cooling wanna-be.

Also look at the QC track record and it's also clear that they have tried to do too-much too-quickly to be properly on top of things.

No doubt that if things had gone more smoothly overall, the Signalkuppe would probably already be out by now, buy Vardar recalls and screw dented rad end caps and various leaks have had to have taken a toll on resources.

I just don't see them deviating from the plan to have everything packaged together under a single branding that doesn't have room for much integration with other brands.

It's worked pretty well for Dell and a few others over the years.

D.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I am not a hydraulic engineer, so I may be wrong, but in looking at it I see the loop return line discharging into one of the reservoir's center ports.
> Then you take the discharge of the first pump and plumb it to the other center port, pressuring the reservoir up.
> The increased pressure in the reservoir will cause back pressure against the return end of the loop.
> So now, you have the output of the first pump fighting the output of the second pump.
> 
> Just doesn't seem like it would work so well.


You could use a y fitting from the output of both pump and have 1 return to reservior then would have them in series.. Would increase flow and pressure some..


----------



## SteezyTN

Wow, I'm sorry EK! I didn't mean to make this a "Bashing EK moment". All I wanted to know was if you sell the dual revo D5 TOP without the pumps.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Wow, I'm sorry EK! I didn't mean to make this a "Bashing EK moment". All I wanted to know was if you sell the dual revo D5 TOP without the pumps.


I think it's ok, people have felt this way for quite a long time. It's not bashing, if we didn't care, we wouldn't post.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/giphy_zpssv8v681b.gif.html

Shower head = superfluous pumps

Red Crab = EK


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Wow, I'm sorry EK! I didn't mean to make this a "Bashing EK moment". All I wanted to know was if you sell the dual revo D5 TOP without the pumps.


I think it is a shame and it is bashing because they should give us the ability to buy the tops with no pumps. I think more people need to vote this way with their pocket book!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I think it's ok, people have felt this way for quite a long time. It's not bashing, if we didn't care, we wouldn't post.
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/giphy_zpssv8v681b.gif.html
> 
> Shower head = superfluous pumps
> 
> Red Crab = EK


It is bashing because they are trying to force us to buy something in a way we dont want to buy it. I could understand if it was difficult to sell it with out the pumps. But they do not make the pumps so they have to pay someone to put them together..


----------



## rck1984

Titan-X full acetal/nickel block and backplate, awesome quality and gorgeous looking:


----------



## Edge0fsanity

that it is a fantastic looking block and back plate. Equally as pretty as the full cover nickel plexi blocks and backplates for my gigabyte WF3 980tis.

At least they don't bundle their blocks with unwanted parts... yet


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You could use a y fitting from the output of both pump and have 1 return to reservior then would have them in series.. Would increase flow and pressure some..


That would certainly work, but I believe that places the pumps in parallel in a single loop.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Titan-X full acetal/nickel block and backplate, awesome quality and gorgeous looking:


Sick! I just assembled two of the 970 version..


----------



## johnd0e

i think my computer know i plan to overhaul the water loop......turned my pc on after installing a new cablemod widebeam led strip.....was greeted by my fans trying to create tornadoes. looked at CPU temp and i was 90c idle. pump wasnt running. turned off and back on and it seemed to cure the problem, for now.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> That would certainly work, but I believe that places the pumps in parallel in a single loop.


kind sir you are right and I do stand corrected!!!







sorry about this as I did not think it through before and glad you could correct me before someone got wrong information.. guess I had a brain fart!!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I am not a hydraulic engineer, so I may be wrong, but in looking at it I see the loop return line discharging into one of the reservoir's center ports.
> Then you take the discharge of the first pump and plumb it to the other center port, pressuring the reservoir up.
> The increased pressure in the reservoir will cause back pressure against the return end of the loop.
> So now, you have the output of the first pump fighting the output of the second pump.
> 
> Just doesn't seem like it would work so well.


I was speaking of serial vs parallel in general. Not of the actual Monsoon Res that is pictured in this thread.

We were on different pages. For that I am sorry.

TCO


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I was speaking of serial vs parallel in general. Not of the actual Monsoon Res that is pictured in this thread.
> 
> We were on different pages. For that I am sorry.
> 
> TCO


does monsoon have a true serial double pump set up?? sorry for asking but at work with less than 1k bandwidth so real hard to look at ppc's site???


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> EK have their own agenda, and in large part, it revolves around making sure that EK products are as Unfriendly to AC products as possible, so as to promote the yet vaporware Signalkuppe.
> 
> They know a lot of builders with EK components also use Aquaeros, and they'd like to make that stop, (or at least be a much smaller percentage) so you have to buy your controller from them.
> 
> In a way, it's a good business strategy, not really unlike AC's, . . . but the Aquaero is so far ahead in product development and user acceptance, that trying to supplant it is a pipe dream on EK's part, and pursuing that path is only going to *backfire spectacularly*.
> 
> Darlene


I feel that backfire spectacularly burning inside of me Oh Lord Hallelujah!

Can I get another Hallelujah?

How about a whoaaaa Jesus?









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/praise_1274001737_zps83lv2qe5.jpg.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I was speaking of serial vs parallel in general. Not of the actual Monsoon Res that is pictured in this thread.
> 
> We were on different pages. For that I am sorry.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> does monsoon have a true serial double pump set up?? sorry for asking but at work with less than 1k bandwidth so real hard to look at ppc's site???
Click to expand...

That would be no. I would like to see them make a dual top based on their single pump w/o Res design. That would be a solid piece of work.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That would be no. I would like to see them make a dual top based on their single pump w/o Res design. That would be a solid piece of work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


thanks for the Info!!!


----------



## gdubc

Monsoon is making a solid middle piece for those reservoirs, that will make for some interesting dual pump/loop setups.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Monsoon is making a solid middle piece for those reservoirs, that will make for some interesting dual pump/loop setups.


thanks for the information and that would be great...


----------



## Domiro

Painted my vardars and while putting the last one together the ring launched itself skyward never to be seen again.

***.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Painted my vardars and while putting the last one together the ring launched itself skyward never to be seen again.
> 
> ***.


That sucks, those little c-clips really are annoying. Although they're fairly easy to get, so at least the fan isn't ruined.


----------



## akira749

For those who fueled this thread about the fact that our recent pump tops only comes bundled with a pump, I want to let you know, that I have personnaly expressed my thoughts about the fact that we only offer some of our products with an included pump a few times now in my monthly reports. Of course I don't have any power of decision in the company but I completely agree with you all and hope that we will go back to where we were in the past and offer our products without pumps so the D5 Vario lovers (like me) can still use their trusty pumps.

I'm all for the freedom of speech and everything and those threads are here to help people and to express our feelings but at the same time, comments like _"Yet, EK is already committing this disrespectful disgraceful act of forcing their loyal customers to purchase an unwanted undesired item"_ aren't necessary and aren't constructive.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> All set up with PPCS, I will drive over the fittings this afternoon.
> 
> Nice efficient transfer of much needed water parts, is what I call that. Very slick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy the fittings...


A huge thanks to you for those fittings, Bruce! For those that don't know, Bruce sent me some EK adapters free of charge when I couldn't find them anywhere else. It's a wonderful thing being a part of this club knowing that there are generous people like you in this fantastic community!

Now that my build is back on track I'm headed to the work bench (dining room table) to officially join this club with a working product!


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> A huge thanks to you for those fittings, Bruce! For those that don't know, Bruce sent me some EK adapters free of charge when I couldn't find them anywhere else. It's a wonderful thing being a part of this club knowing that there are generous people like you in this fantastic community!
> 
> Now that my build is back on track I'm headed to the work bench (dining room table) to officially join this club with a working product!


Glad to help out JC,

Great Luck with your build, and welcome to the EK Club.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> For those who fueled this thread about the fact that our recent pump tops only comes bundled with a pump, I want to let you know, that I have personnaly expressed my thoughts about the fact that we only offer some of our products with an included pump a few times now in my monthly reports. Of course I don't have any power of decision in the company but I completely agree with you all and hope that we will go back to where we were in the past and offer our products without pumps so the D5 Vario lovers (like me) can still use their trusty pumps.
> 
> I'm all for the freedom of speech and everything and those threads are here to help people and to express our feelings but at the same time, comments like _"Yet, EK is already committing this disrespectful disgraceful act of forcing their loyal customers to purchase an unwanted undesired item"_ aren't necessary and aren't constructive.


That's great. I know certain people are fueling madly *cough cough* iBruce









I didn't mean to start all that lol. I just wanted to know if I could buy the Dual Revo without the pumps. Lol


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I didn't mean to start all that lol. I just wanted to know if I could buy the Dual Revo without the pumps. Lol


I know, don't worry


----------



## iBruce

Anything to get those Dual Series D5 Pump Tops into the hands of loyal EK customers without forcing them to buy two pumps they do not want *is 100% constructive in my mind*, I really don't see how it could be interpreted as anything else.

For months the complaints have been pouring in, don't pretend this problem is brand new, and EK has taken no action to resolve the unwanted pump bundling issue which I believe is not only unfair to consumers and a poor business practice in it's own right, but in the United States, as an imported product, I believe it's also illegal.

Since the portion of the bundle increasing the cost to the consumer by 250% is NOT manufactured by EK and at the same time the consumer has NO access to the part/sku that is manufactured by EK.


----------



## derickwm

Thanks for the concern everyone, maybe at a later date. We have a lot of SKUs, we must be kind to our resellers.


----------



## rck1984

Big thumbs up to EKWB, first time custom water-cooling here and i'm blown away by the quality, performance and looks of the parts


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Thanks for the concern everyone, maybe at a later date. We have a lot of SKUs, we must be kind to our resellers.


EK also need to think about the customers as well...









They are the ones who ultimately purchase, or in this case do not purchase the product.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Thanks for the concern everyone, maybe at a later date. We have a lot of SKUs, we must be kind to our resellers.
> 
> 
> 
> EK also need to think about the customers as well...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are the ones who ultimately purchase, or in this case do not purchase the product.
Click to expand...

You think we don't? *We have over 700 active SKUs currently. *We release 5 types of blocks for reference PCBs and at least 2 for non-reference. Same numbers for backplates. Besides the Dual types, you can buy almost any XRES or XTOP product separately from pumps.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Anything to get those Dual Series D5 Pump Tops into the hands of loyal EK customers without forcing them to buy two pumps they do not want *is 100% constructive in my mind*, I really don't see how it could be interpreted as anything else.
> 
> For months the complaints have been pouring in, don't pretend this problem is brand new, and EK has taken no action to resolve the unwanted pump bundling issue which I believe is not only unfair to consumers and a poor business practice in it's own right, but in the United States, as an imported product, I believe it's also illegal.
> 
> Since the portion of the bundle increasing the cost to the consumer by 250% is NOT manufactured by EK and at the same time the consumer has NO access to the part/sku that is manufactured by EK.


Unsure of the legality aspect. But am pretty sure that as long as the warranty is the same for the pump half of the unit as a pre purchased pump added to a top it rally shouldn't matter. The only difference is they don't sell Aquero compatible pumps and tht's where most people are turned off with the bundle aspect. You spend the same for a pump from the same manufacturer otherwise and to keep RMA processes low with EK they chose to bundle. I don't agree with this concept but how many times have we seen here on OCN alone, someone having an issue unsure of what they were doing with the Oring? "RTFM" exists for a reason but it still happens, people will still burn out their pump or they will still have leakage issues because they don't know what they're doing and bundling is really the only way to avoid these newbish problems.

I still want to purchase separately though. I think having that choice simplifies things for experienced builders wanting to use AC pumps which aren't available through EK.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Thanks for the concern everyone, maybe at a later date. We have a lot of SKUs, we must be kind to our resellers.


It's more than resellers. You only have one reseller here in the States to my knowledge and that's PPCs. I get the move, I just don't agree with it because you're not the only manufacturer selling through them. I'm a long time customer of PPCs and have waded through their site endlessly sourcing parts. A lot of the issues can be solved with compatibility information in the listings. Problem solved and no amount of SKU limitation required.









I also get that it would increase your SKU range to do this but I'd like to see more Copper blocks added. Nickel is fine an all but those of us who don't wish to have Nickel blocks are left out when it comes to GPU blocks. I try to limit my exposure to Nickel blocks whenever possible but it can't be done unless you go with Thermosphere. I like mine but would rather have FC blocks wherever possible.









~Ceadder


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You think we don't? *We have over 700 active SKUs currently. *We release 5 types of blocks for reference PCBs and at least 2 for non-reference. Same numbers for backplates. Besides the Dual types, you can buy almost any XRES or XTOP product separately from pumps.


No, obviously EK does take customers into account otherwise they wouldn't be around too long..







- However from a customer perspective I thought it was very odd that a decision was made to only offer the dual pump housing with pumps.

I mean, the people that will most likely? opt for a dual housing are generally the more hardcore orientated crowd (with more complex loops etc) and these are specifically the people that tend to go for the more exclusive component makeup ie different featured pumps rather than the stock D5 etc.


----------



## Radnad

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Anything to get those Dual Series D5 Pump Tops into the hands of loyal EK customers without forcing them to buy two pumps they do not want *is 100% constructive in my mind*, I really don't see how it could be interpreted as anything else.
> 
> For months the complaints have been pouring in, don't pretend this problem is brand new, and EK has taken no action to resolve the unwanted pump bundling issue which I believe is not only unfair to consumers and a poor business practice in it's own right, but in the United States, as an imported product, I believe it's also illegal.
> 
> Since the portion of the bundle increasing the cost to the consumer by 250% is NOT manufactured by EK and at the same time the consumer has NO access to the part/sku that is manufactured by EK.
> 
> 
> 
> Unsure of the legality aspect. But am pretty sure that as long as the warranty is the same for the pump half of the unit as a pre purchased pump added to a top it rally shouldn't matter. The only difference is they don't sell Aquero compatible pumps and tht's where most people are turned off with the bundle aspect. You spend the same for a pump from the same manufacturer otherwise and to keep RMA processes low with EK they chose to bundle. I don't agree with this concept but how many times have we seen here on OCN alone, someone having an issue unsure of what they were doing with the Oring? "RTFM" exists for a reason but it still happens, people will still burn out their pump or they will still have leakage issues because they don't know what they're doing and bundling is really the only way to avoid these newbish problems.
> 
> I still want to purchase separately though. I think having that choice simplifies things for experienced builders wanting to use AC pumps which aren't available through EK.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Thanks for the concern everyone, maybe at a later date. We have a lot of SKUs, we must be kind to our resellers.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It's more than resellers. You only have one reseller here in the States to my knowledge and that's PPCs. I get the move, I just don't agree with it because you're not the only manufacturer selling through them. I'm a long time customer of PPCs and have waded through their site endlessly sourcing parts. A lot of the issues can be solved with compatibility information in the listings. Problem solved and no amount of SKU limitation required.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also get that it would increase your SKU range to do this but I'd like to see more Copper blocks added. Nickel is fine an all but those of us who don't wish to have Nickel blocks are left out when it comes to GPU blocks. I try to limit my exposure to Nickel blocks whenever possible but it can't be done unless you go with Thermosphere. I like mine but would rather have FC blocks wherever possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...





Microcenter and Altex are US resellers also. Imo EK is in the business of making custom water cooling components, not reselling pumps. So all their tops should be available by themselves. They sell pumps as a convenience to customers, but they make and sell tops as a fundamental aspect of their business. There is already an SKU for the pump, so discontinue the SKU for the combo and have an SKU just for the top. Simple solution, no additional SKU's needed.

Also imo maybe eliminate making useless SKU's like for an SSD for example just because "they" asked. Just because "they" are "them" doesn't mean you are beholding to them. EK made thier rep by beating their own drum not by bending over for someone else's beat.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Anything to get those Dual Series D5 Pump Tops into the hands of loyal EK customers without forcing them to buy two pumps they do not want *is 100% constructive in my mind*, I really don't see how it could be interpreted as anything else.
> 
> For months the complaints have been pouring in, don't pretend this problem is brand new, and EK has taken no action to resolve the unwanted pump bundling issue which I believe is not only unfair to consumers and a poor business practice in it's own right, but in the United States, as an imported product, I believe it's also illegal.
> 
> Since the portion of the bundle increasing the cost to the consumer by 250% is NOT manufactured by EK and at the same time the consumer has NO access to the part/sku that is manufactured by EK.
> 
> 
> 
> Unsure of the legality aspect. But am pretty sure that as long as the warranty is the same for the pump half of the unit as a pre purchased pump added to a top it rally shouldn't matter. The only difference is they don't sell Aquero compatible pumps and tht's where most people are turned off with the bundle aspect. You spend the same for a pump from the same manufacturer otherwise and to keep RMA processes low with EK they chose to bundle. I don't agree with this concept but how many times have we seen here on OCN alone, someone having an issue unsure of what they were doing with the Oring? "RTFM" exists for a reason but it still happens, people will still burn out their pump or they will still have leakage issues because they don't know what they're doing and bundling is really the only way to avoid these newbish problems.
> 
> I still want to purchase separately though. I think having that choice simplifies things for experienced builders wanting to use AC pumps which aren't available through EK.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Thanks for the concern everyone, maybe at a later date. We have a lot of SKUs, we must be kind to our resellers.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It's more than resellers. You only have one reseller here in the States to my knowledge and that's PPCs. I get the move, I just don't agree with it because you're not the only manufacturer selling through them. I'm a long time customer of PPCs and have waded through their site endlessly sourcing parts. A lot of the issues can be solved with compatibility information in the listings. Problem solved and no amount of SKU limitation required.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also get that it would increase your SKU range to do this but I'd like to see more Copper blocks added. Nickel is fine an all but those of us who don't wish to have Nickel blocks are left out when it comes to GPU blocks. I try to limit my exposure to Nickel blocks whenever possible but it can't be done unless you go with Thermosphere. I like mine but would rather have FC blocks wherever possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Microcenter and Altex are US resellers also. Imo EK is in the business of making custom water cooling components, not reselling pumps. So all their tops should be available by themselves. They sell pumps as a convenience to customers, but they make and sell tops as a fundamental aspect of their business. There is already an SKU for the pump, so discontinue the SKU for the combo and have an SKU just for the top. Simple solution, no additional SKU's needed.
> 
> Also imo maybe eliminate making useless SKU's like for an SSD for example just because "they" asked. Just because "they" are "them" doesn't mean you are beholding to them. EK made thier rep by beating their own drum not by bending over for someone else's beat.
Click to expand...

MicroCenter only recently became a supplier as far as I know. I'm unsure of Altex. Neither entered my brain however as neither are in my area. If they were I would likely be purchasing from them rather than PPCs, strictly to avoid shipping expenses and having the convenience of having the parts in my hands immediately. But you're right and I should've remembered them. Thanks for reminding me.









~Ceadder


----------



## golfleep

Anyone know of a good place to find recent EOL'd EK stuff in the US? I'm looking for a EK-FC R9 280x DCII nickel water block and the corresponding backplates, and I just can't seem to find them anywhere. Also can't post in the wanted/for sale section yet. So if anyone has some sources, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!


----------



## arnavvr

Theres one on eBay


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Titan-X full acetal/nickel block and backplate, awesome quality and gorgeous looking:


I don't think there's anything I like more than a picture of just a GPU with an EK Water Block on it. They're so damn nice looking! Great build, by the way. Really loving how clean it is.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Thanks for the concern everyone, maybe at a later date. We have a lot of SKUs, we must be kind to our resellers.


It appears we have an official answer from EK regarding dual top/pump bungling... and it burns my chops!
It IS EK's business, and they can implement any business model they wish, absolutely true... even to their demise.
But that being said, I do not appreciate being blatantly LIED to.
At least have the fortitude to be honest that you believe it is the path to a better bottom line. I would respect that.

You have a lot of SKUs?
Bitspower has more SKU's than EK for a single color in their fittings line.
Moonsoon has more SKUs in just their new MMRS series.
And then we come to AquaComputer, who do NOT offer a dual D5 top... *light-bulb moment* hence the bungling policy for EK dual D5 tops.

You must be kind to your resellers?
You have your own retail website where customers may go to buy any SKUs resellers decide not to carry.

I honestly wish EK the best, but I fear the worst.


----------



## gdubc

I had that same reaction on the sku comment. Monsoon was adding cold cathode pieces for the reservoirs and he was ready and willing to add them in all the colors they offer. I would think that resellers hate the direct sales more than the number of skus they have to carry.


----------



## bluedevil

Heya Guys, thinking of getting a EK Predator 240 + Thermosphere for my Lian Li PC-V33B test bench. Does EK pre-fill the Thermosphere for the QDC version of the Predator? Also with a i5 6600K @ 4.5Ghz and say a high end GPU (Fury X or 980 Ti) would that be enough radiator?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Heya Guys, thinking of getting a EK Predator 240 + Thermosphere for my Lian Li PC-V33B test bench. Does EK pre-fill the Thermosphere for the QDC version of the Predator? Also with a i5 6600K @ 4.5Ghz and say a high end GPU (Fury X or 980 Ti) would that be enough radiator?


A 240mm rad can cool a CPU and GPU, but you'll have to be considerate with your overclocks. Usually 360mm of radiator space is recommended for a CPU+GPU.

And you can get most waterblocks pre-filled straight from the shop for a €30 fee(which isn't much considering the fittings, tubing, coolant, labor and very expensive QDC fittings), although the option isn't available for the Thermosphere. But maybe if you ask nicely they might fill one for you, and maybe an additional pre-filled 120mm radiator too?

Can't hurt to try anyway, although EK does seem a little swamped with issues as of late, so they might be less quick to help out.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> A 240mm rad can cool a CPU and GPU, but you'll have to be considerate with your overclocks. Usually 360mm of radiator space is recommended for a CPU+GPU.
> 
> And you can get most waterblocks pre-filled straight from the shop for a €30 fee(which isn't much considering the fittings, tubing, coolant, labor and very expensive QDC fittings), although the option isn't available for the Thermosphere. But maybe if you ask nicely they might fill one for you, and maybe an additional pre-filled 120mm radiator too?
> 
> Can't hurt to try anyway, although EK does seem a little swamped with issues as of late, so they might be less quick to help out.


yeah just got a tweet from them..no dice. Guess I am gonna get my feet wet again.


----------



## iBruce

It doesn't take a doctor of medicine to understand if a user follows EK's X4 250 reservoir reassembly instructions per their .pdf and use the amount of force necessary to push the borosilicate glass tube with bare unprotected hands beyond the extremely tight ring gasket which you have just desiccated using isopropyl alcohol also per the manufacturer's reassembly instructions, and add that pressure while tilting the top of the glass tube and also adding a circular motion at the very same time per those same instructions that the glass could break and shard, just as it did to this X4 250 consumer.

Unprotected, and applying the amount of force I know personally having owned an X4 250, that is needed to reassemble the product, the X4 250 reservoir, if either sitting down or standing over the glass tube while applying the tilting and rotation motion along with significant pressure (force), the user could easily break the glass and adding the user's body weight to the applied force could easily lead to lacerations of his or her hands and arms, and subsequent bleeding. Whether the bleeding is mild, moderate, or severe would predicate upon which arterial or venous vessels were torn or lacerated during the actions needed to reassemble the product.

The desiccation process EK recommends to ensure a watertight seal, unfortunately desiccation of rubber parts has the opposite effect of lubrication of rubber parts, increasing the amount of force (pressure) necessary to move the breakable glass tube past the ring gasket and into the reassembled position.

By the way EK, I happen to be a doctor of medicine from the University of Florida, and tomorrow I'm filing an unsafe product report concerning the X4 250, with the United States Consumer Product Safety Commission on behalf of the people of the United States, as both a consumer and a health care professional.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109841372.pdf

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...9abd642_20151207_211307_zpsvateyu5r.jpeg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...b03000b_20151207_211323_zpsxvlxvssc.jpeg.html


----------



## Costas

Wow - I really hope you did not injure yourself...!

Never been a big fan of not lubricating o-rings when assembling items.

I always tend to use a small amount of silicone grease for applications like this and In hindsight I would have at least lubricated the O-rings with a solution of water and a little dish washing liquid.

Just curious as to the EK instructions regarding installing the seals dry and whether lubricating them a little is such a leak issue or not.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You think we don't? *We have over 700 active SKUs currently. *We release 5 types of blocks for reference PCBs and at least 2 for non-reference. Same numbers for backplates. Besides the Dual types, you can buy almost any XRES or XTOP product separately from pumps.


Good to know. Does this mean we are able to buy the new pump top that has the built in reservoir without a pump? Love the styling it has but since I'll be getting an aquaero for fan and pump control I'd rather get the reservoir/pumptop combo without a pump.


----------



## Benjiw

Is EK no longer selling supremacy evo block tops etc? I have a used nickel block and I think the guy was a smoker or something because it's all brown on the inside and the box smells of smoke.


----------



## pdasterly

no longer available, All my blocks cracked, Im guessing from leaving them dry. I had to change all the block from plexi to Acetal. curse you ek. Here's part of my order. still need to order thicker thermal pads for monarch x4 block. Basically going from clear plexi to black

EK ASUS M6G MOSFET Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel + Acetal (EK-MOSFET ASUS M6G - Acetal+Nickel)
EK Monarch Series X4 Ram Liquid Cooling Block Repalcement Top - Acetal Clean (TOP Acetal - RAM Monarch X4 Clean CSQ)
EK Supremacy EVO Upgrade Kit - Acetal (EK-Supremacy EVO Upgrade Kit - Acetal)
EK ASUS ROG M6G Southbridge Chipset Liquid Cooling Block - Acetal + Nickel (EK-SB ASUS M6G - Acetal+Nickel)

I dont think a smoker's house would have those results on your block, sounds like the guys system developed a leak and burned up the pc when the liquid ran out


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Is EK no longer selling supremacy evo block tops etc? I have a used nickel block and I think the guy was a smoker or something because it's all brown on the inside and the box smells of smoke.


Open a support ticket on our website and ask them if it's possible to get a replacement top. They might be able to sell you the top alone.


----------



## pdasterly

only cpu top is available


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...9abd642_20151207_211307_zpsvateyu5r.jpeg.html












Hope yer okay iBro.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sazexa

Well, I tried to order some parts for my loop last night. But during my order process I got an "error" while placing the payment. Now I have a payment sent from my card, and no verification from EK that they actually got my order lololol.

Might have to give them a call.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Hey so I've got this older version of an EK dual d5 pump top for 2 loops like pictured and I'm having leaking issues so I'm looking for new orings does anyone know if these will work?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/laing-12v-d5-pump-replacement-o-ring-d5-dd12v-d5-pmp-450-mcp655-series.html

For this?










I got it second hand so I tested it with air and water before installing and again with air before filling. The CPU loop went fine and doesn't leak at all but the GPU loop started leaking from between the main block and the plate that holds the pumps on. both the short sides leaked but not the front or back, which I found ods.
Anyways I took it out and inspected everything. Orings looked OK but one did feel like it was a tiny bit loose.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Is EK no longer selling supremacy evo block tops etc? I have a used nickel block and I think the guy was a smoker or something because it's all brown on the inside and the box smells of smoke.


I just got a plexi top from ppcs if you can't find what you're looking for


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Hey so I've got this older version of an EK dual d5 pump top for 2 loops like pictured and I'm having leaking issues so I'm looking for new orings does anyone know if these will work?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/laing-12v-d5-pump-replacement-o-ring-d5-dd12v-d5-pmp-450-mcp655-series.html
> 
> For this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it second hand so I tested it with air and water before installing and again with air before filling. The CPU loop went fine and doesn't leak at all but the GPU loop started leaking from between the main block and the plate that holds the pumps on. both the short sides leaked but not the front or back, which I found ods.
> Anyways I took it out and inspected everything. Orings looked OK but one did feel like it was a tiny bit loose.
> I just got a plexi top from ppcs if you can't find what you're looking for


Had to order all new blocks in acetal, I had old supremacy top(2013)
https://goo.gl/photos/hhNTfgRB4onE2JXL9


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> Had to order all new blocks in acetal, I had old supremacy top(2013)
> https://goo.gl/photos/hhNTfgRB4onE2JXL9


those aren't compatible with the newer evo tops? I just slapped an evo top into my MX and I'm loving that!
I'm thinking about ordering every d5 oring I can find as well as a couple new separate tops in case none of them pan out. I was hoping to be back up and running tomorrow lol


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> those aren't compatible with the newer evo tops? I just slapped an evo top into my MX and I'm loving that!
> I'm thinking about ordering every d5 oring I can find as well as a couple new separate tops in case none of them pan out. I was hoping to be back up and running tomorrow lol


EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ Nickel (Model 2013) is what i have, I believe this is what I needed, this is what i ordered
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25414/ex-blc-1826/EK_Supremacy_EVO_Upgrade_Kit_-_Acetal_EK-Supremacy_EVO_Upgrade_Kit_-_Acetal.html


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> Had to order all new blocks in acetal, I had old supremacy top(2013)
> https://goo.gl/photos/hhNTfgRB4onE2JXL9


yeah I forgot those had different internals. That's cool they've got an upgrade for it


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Hey so I've got this older version of an EK dual d5 pump top for 2 loops like pictured and I'm having leaking issues so I'm looking for new orings does anyone know if these will work?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/laing-12v-d5-pump-replacement-o-ring-d5-dd12v-d5-pmp-450-mcp655-series.html
> 
> For this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it second hand so I tested it with air and water before installing and again with air before filling. The CPU loop went fine and doesn't leak at all but the GPU loop started leaking from between the main block and the plate that holds the pumps on. both the short sides leaked but not the front or back, which I found ods.
> Anyways I took it out and inspected everything. Orings looked OK but one did feel like it was a tiny bit loose.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Is EK no longer selling supremacy evo block tops etc? I have a used nickel block and I think the guy was a smoker or something because it's all brown on the inside and the box smells of smoke.
> 
> 
> 
> I just got a plexi top from ppcs if you can't find what you're looking for
Click to expand...

Needs a new Oring I'd wager.









~Ceadder


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Well, I tried to order some parts for my loop last night. But during my order process I got an "error" while placing the payment. Now I have a payment sent from my card, and no verification from EK that they actually got my order lololol.
> 
> Might have to give them a call.


Nothing in your account about the status of your order?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Needs a new Oring I'd wager.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


any idea if that o ring I linked to will work? I was going to grab that and this one to (hopefully) increase my odds of success.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-laing-12v-d5-pump-replacement-o-ring-d5-dd12v-d5-pmp-450-mcp655-series.html


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Nothing in your account about the status of your order?


Nope lol

I even waited a day before making the support case.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Thanks for the concern everyone, maybe at a later date. We have a lot of SKUs, we must be kind to our resellers.


I know, I should let this go... but so blatant!

You have the bungled dual-top/pump SKU.
Drop the pumps from the bungle, and you still have only ONE SKU.
How is it an SKU issue?

We are in the midst of a political election cycle here in the USA... I am attuned to BS.


----------



## BrjSan

Hey folks,

Any body know where i can find o-ring for https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc970-gtx-wf3-nickel


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Well, I tried to order some parts for my loop last night. But during my order process I got an "error" while placing the payment. Now I have a payment sent from my card, and no verification from EK that they actually got my order lololol.
> 
> Might have to give them a call.


Do you have an order number?

If you have one, open a ticket on the website and explain them that your order #xyz wasn't completed since you encounter a problem at the checkout.

If you don't have one maybe give them your personnal info (name, address, etc...) and they might be able to find your order in the system.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Hey so I've got this older version of an EK dual d5 pump top for 2 loops like pictured and I'm having leaking issues so I'm looking for new orings does anyone know if these will work?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/laing-12v-d5-pump-replacement-o-ring-d5-dd12v-d5-pmp-450-mcp655-series.html
> 
> For this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it second hand so I tested it with air and water before installing and again with air before filling. The CPU loop went fine and doesn't leak at all but the GPU loop started leaking from between the main block and the plate that holds the pumps on. both the short sides leaked but not the front or back, which I found ods.
> Anyways I took it out and inspected everything. Orings looked OK but one did feel like it was a tiny bit loose.
> I just got a plexi top from ppcs if you can't find what you're looking for


Good question. I will try to find the exact o-ring size you need and let you know.


----------



## dilster97

Trapped air in the Supremacy EVO is annoying. Tilting case seems to be the best trick to remove it.

Plexi blocks are nice for seeing where it's trapped.


----------



## maximus7651000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Its a pity they dropped their Dual CSQ pump tops as IMO these were the bomb...
> 
> 
> Sitting pretty inside my SMA8


I didn't know they discontinued it...glad I got mine last year. I do not like the revo design at all.

I did order the EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition full nickel cpu waterblock...had it for about a month now...haven't had the strength to carry my case to the other room lately though but hopefully I'll have it installed soon.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maximus7651000*
> 
> I didn't know they discontinued it...glad I got mine last year. I do not like the revo design at all.
> 
> I did order the EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition full nickel cpu waterblock...had it for about a month now...haven't had the strength to carry my case to the other room lately though but hopefully I'll have it installed soon.


that is the top I really wanted. I vinyl wrapped mine to make it look similar, if I can get it to stop leaking lol. I'm pretty disappointed with the pump top options right now.


----------



## pdasterly

frozencpu called this morning and cancel part of my order, looking for ek-sb mg6 acetal, waiting for response from ek which i doubt they have
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22320/ex-blc-1598/EK_ASUS_ROG_M6G_Southbridge_Chipset_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_Nickel_EK-SB_ASUS_M6G_-_AcetalNickel.html


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> frozencpu called this morning and cancel part of my order, looking for ek-sb mg6 acetal, waiting for response from ek which i doubt they have
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22320/ex-blc-1598/EK_ASUS_ROG_M6G_Southbridge_Chipset_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_Nickel_EK-SB_ASUS_M6G_-_AcetalNickel.html


I wish I would've gotten one for my Hero. EK had like 1 or 2 left in stock before they sold out because of EOL, but I wasn't going to pay $20 in shipping lol


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Wait... FrozenCPU is operational again?


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Wait... FrozenCPU is operational again?


yes, ordered from them yesterday, items shipped same day


----------



## golfleep

Seems like it, I placed and order and am awaiting with crossed fingers.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1553275/frozencpu-news-thread/0_20


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Wait... FrozenCPU is operational again?


Yes, but if I remember correctly they are only taking phone orders at this time.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Yes, but if I remember correctly they are only taking phone orders at this time.


web order ok


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Yeah, I think I'll let everyone else be the guineapig this time. I don't want the place to go batguano with an order in process...


----------



## 0ldChicken

I'll check there if I can't find what I need anywhere else but I still don't like it


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Yes, but if I remember correctly they are only taking phone orders at this time.


They reactivated their online merchant payment capability recently - so supposedly you can use Paypal again etc.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> They reactivated their online merchant payment capability recently - so supposedly you can use Paypal again etc.


Nice, time to check shipping prices for military!


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Nice, time to check shipping prices for military!


Hmmm... I just tried placing a small order with them and when I arrived at the payment selection screen there is no Paypal option... so did not get very far... lol


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Hmmm... I just tried placing a small order with them and when I arrived at the payment selection screen there is no Paypal option... so did not get very far... lol


go back to home page and scroll down and click link, freakin frozen is not paying me for this

edit: my bad, i paid with credit card


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> go back to home page and scroll down and click link, freakin frozen is not paying me for this
> 
> edit: my bad, i paid with credit card


I recall seeing some link on their homepage the other day regarding payment etc when you get to their checkout but its not visible right now.


----------



## DerComissar

I still prefer navigating the FrozenCPU site, compared to PPC's mess of a website.
Bought a fair bit of stuff from Frozen back before it blew up, lol.

Clicking on EK at Frozen brings up a nice categorized list of goodies, as with the other brands.
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g57/EK_Products.html


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> I recall seeing some link on their homepage the other day regarding payment etc when you get to their checkout but its not visible right now.


when i tried to order this morn the complete order button wasn't there but I called them up and he instructed me to go to homepage and click link. Link is not there anymore

I have open orders with both performance-pcs and frozencpu, where else am i gonna get my fix from (junky in need), damn two-bit dealers.

dont forget "ocn" discount code


----------



## Panther Al

For what it is worth, ordered from Frozen last week (Friday) and got it in today. Everything as they said, no issue.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Needs a new Oring I'd wager.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any idea if that o ring I linked to will work? I was going to grab that and this one to (hopefully) increase my odds of success.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-laing-12v-d5-pump-replacement-o-ring-d5-dd12v-d5-pmp-450-mcp655-series.html
Click to expand...

Should be fine. All D5 655s are made by the same manufacturer iirc. So you shouldn't have any issues with it.









~Ceadder


----------



## andrej124

Refurbished EK-XLC Predator All-In-One at a discounted price!











Official news: https://www.ekwb.com/news/refurbished-ek-xlc-predator-one-discounted-price/


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Should be fine. All D5 655s are made by the same manufacturer iirc. So you shouldn't have any issues with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


that is what EK just said this morning as well. I've ordered the swiftech ones as well as the Bitspower ones, fingers crossed! If not I'll ship it back and then buy a couple of new tops
Edit: I'm worried that the replacements will be the like the smaller diameter oring I've got, here is to hope and buying used hardware


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> Refurbished EK-XLC Predator All-In-One at a discounted price!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Official news: https://www.ekwb.com/news/refurbished-ek-xlc-predator-one-discounted-price/


You don't even know how hard it is right now to not pull the trigger. You guys take PayPal?


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> You don't even know how hard it is right now to not pull the trigger. You guys take PayPal?


Yes, Yes they do.

Unless you're having a giggle...


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> Yes, Yes they do.
> 
> Unless you're having a giggle...


Forget it....$35 for tax is ridiculous. I would rather but it BNIB.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Forget it....$35 for tax is ridiculous. I would rather but it BNIB.


Tax is only for European orders. If you have a US address in your account, then it should remove the tax from the shopping cart.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Should be fine. All D5 655s are made by the same manufacturer iirc. So you shouldn't have any issues with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


twas the oring! I drained a different pc to borrow one out of a d5 revo. It fits much better and works without leaking a drop. I'm assuming one of the many o rings I ordered will also work with either. so yay!

Thanks a bunch to everyone that helped! It is much appreciated


----------



## surfinchina

Off the latest topic...
I've got an EK res mounted horizontally in an Inwin 901 case.
I used to have the res full but it was impossible to remove the last small bubble, so I drained a bit.

Now there's this smoke thing going on in the air gap. Sort of vapour racing across the top. It's very cool highlighted by the LEDs behind. The pics don't do it justice.


----------



## MIGhunter

Finished my build


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## smicha

New finished build on EK parts

http://www.overclock.net/t/1593527/watercooled-4x-980ti-phanteks-enthoo-primo


----------



## Thoth420

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> Off the latest topic...
> I've got an EK res mounted horizontally in an Inwin 901 case.
> I used to have the res full but it was impossible to remove the last small bubble, so I drained a bit.
> 
> Now there's this smoke thing going on in the air gap. Sort of vapour racing across the top. It's very cool highlighted by the LEDs behind. The pics don't do it justice.






That looks awesome!









Can't even see what you are talking about but I am looking at it on a small 1080 screen atm.


----------



## Costas

A bit of EK goodness...


----------



## Willius

Very nice @Costas! What case is it? Caselabs?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> Very nice @Costas! What case is it? Caselabs?


Yes - Caselabs SMA8 - More detail in my build log - Just click on my signature below.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Yes - Caselabs SMA8 - More detail in my build log - Just click on my signature below.


Doh! I'm on mobile, great build man!


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> Doh! I'm on mobile, great build man!


Thanks...


----------



## enkur

I like how you used rigid tubing without bending anything ... I want to use rigid but dont want to go through the bend pains lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> A bit of EK goodness...


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> I like how you used rigid tubing without bending anything ... I want to use rigid but dont want to go through the bend pains lol.


I feel like bending is easier than trying to line straight runs up for everything using fittings... BUT I've never tried to do a bendless build, I can never bring myself to spend that much on fittings lol


----------



## Dukman

Been lurking and learning. But I do have a stack of EK stuff sitting here waiting to be installed.

2 780Ti Waterblocks and backplates that are pretty much useless to me now
1 780Ti Waterblock and backplate mounted. Not in use.
3 Way Serial bridge (which also might be rendered useless)
CPU Block
D5 Pump/Res Combo
200mm tube to replace the 100 that came on the reservoir

Need to order

2 or 3 waterblocks for 980Ti Classified. Cant decide if I want to stay 2 way or go 3 way

I'm tempted to set my Primochill tubing aside and give EK's new soft tubing a try.


----------



## Sazexa

Well, I'm officially an owner of EKWB components!

I'm hoping this will be enough (with two Noctua NF-F12's) to cool to a degree find acceptable, for an i7-5820K and a GTX 980. If not... Maybe i'll upgrade my case to someting bigger.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Well, I'm officially an owner of EKWB components!
> 
> I'm hoping this will be enough (with two Noctua NF-F12's) to cool to a degree find acceptable, for an i7-5820K and a GTX 980. If not... Maybe i'll upgrade my case to someting bigger.


Wouldn't it be cheaper (and easier) to get a Predator 240 with QDC and a prefilled 980 block?

Oh and I do think you are pushing it with what u are running. 360 minimum I would suggest.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Wouldn't it be cheaper (and easier) to get a Predator 240 with QDC and a prefilled 980 block?
> 
> Oh and I do think you are pushing it with what u are running. 360 minimum I would suggest.


*Ghasp* Why would you ever suggest a AIO over custom building a loop? Seriously though, if someone has the money and initiative to do a custom loop, I would pick that any day over an AIO. They are convenient, but custom loops generally perform better and you get the experience and pride of building something yourself. That's just my humble opinion.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dukman*
> 
> Been lurking and learning. But I do have a stack of EK stuff sitting here waiting to be installed.
> 
> 2 780Ti Waterblocks and backplates that are pretty much useless to me now
> 1 780Ti Waterblock and backplate mounted. Not in use.
> 3 Way Serial bridge (which also might be rendered useless)
> CPU Block
> D5 Pump/Res Combo
> 200mm tube to replace the 100 that came on the reservoir
> 
> Need to order
> 
> 2 or 3 waterblocks for 980Ti Classified. Cant decide if I want to stay 2 way or go 3 way
> 
> I'm tempted to set my Primochill tubing aside and give EK's new soft tubing a try.


primochill has similar soft tubing, ek even sell primochill


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> *Ghasp* Why would you ever suggest a AIO over custom building a loop? Seriously though, if someone has the money and initiative to do a custom loop, I would pick that any day over an AIO. They are convenient, but custom loops generally perform better and you get the experience and pride of building something yourself. That's just my humble opinion.


You say that like you think EK's Predator series aren't made from custom parts. Lol I know what you mean though.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Wouldn't it be cheaper (and easier) to get a Predator 240 with QDC and a prefilled 980 block?
> 
> Oh and I do think you are pushing it with what u are running. 360 minimum I would suggest.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> *Ghasp* Why would you ever suggest a AIO over custom building a loop? Seriously though, if someone has the money and initiative to do a custom loop, I would pick that any day over an AIO. They are convenient, but custom loops generally perform better and you get the experience and pride of building something yourself. That's just my humble opinion.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> You say that like you think EK's Predator series aren't made from custom parts. Lol I know what you mean though.


Well. I won't be over clocking. So, it should be enough.

I didn't go with the predator, because it doesn't fit. With the offset from the pump and reservoir on the radiator, the kit doesn't fit where a normal 240mm radiator on it's own does in my case. At least, not without modding


----------



## Dukman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> primochill has similar soft tubing, ek even sell primochill


I've got a package of the Primochill Advanced LRT tubing in black. I will more than likely stick with that unless it proves itself to be utter junk. Which I doubt, as it's gotten decent reviews.

In regards to the Predator AIO, if there was a way to get that to work for my 780Ti's that are staying in this system, I would consider using it.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dukman*
> 
> I've got a package of the Primochill Advanced LRT tubing in black. I will more than likely stick with that unless it proves itself to be utter junk. Which I doubt, as it's gotten decent reviews.
> 
> In regards to the Predator AIO, if there was a way to get that to work for my 780Ti's that are staying in this system, I would consider using it.


They just look really slick to me. Think I could fit a 360 Predator in the front of a CM MasterCase Pro 5?


----------



## Dukman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> They just look really slick to me. Think I could fit a 360 Predator in the front of a CM MasterCase Pro 5?


With a screwdriver, pliers, drill bits and a Dremel, you could put it anywhere you wanted.









That's my only option as well, with regards to my Corsair C70. But I really don't want to chop up this case.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dukman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> They just look really slick to me. Think I could fit a 360 Predator in the front of a CM MasterCase Pro 5?
> 
> 
> 
> With a screwdriver, pliers, drill bits and a Dremel, you could put it anywhere you wanted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's my only option as well, with regards to my Corsair C70. But I really don't want to chop up this case.
Click to expand...

Those C70s are pretty decent cases. I fit a 360 rad up top and a 240 in front on my kids, with no cutting needed.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Well, I'm officially an owner of EKWB components!
> 
> I'm hoping this will be enough (with two Noctua NF-F12's) to cool to a degree find acceptable, for an i7-5820K and a GTX 980. If not... Maybe i'll upgrade my case to someting bigger.


I don't see any pump top and reservoir. Is it normal?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I don't see any pump top and reservoir. Is it normal?


EK didn't offer a reservoir fitting for my case size, and I also needed a specific pump top to fit the DDC pump as well. I have ordered them, just not from EK.


----------



## iBruce

Really like this photo, but I need a true camera and not an iPhone, considering the new Canon 80D, only been available for two days now in the US.

EK nickel/white badges are a nice accent to any gray/white black/white or all white build, I bought (10) of them. Adding Mayhems Extreme white to the EK M8E monoblock to complete the aesthetic.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-badge-silver-5-pcs.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5479_zpshxsrwy9c.jpg.html


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sup CeadderDaMan?

Got your Monsoons here ready to send and other stuffs. Just now updated the GSkill TridentZ from 3466MHz (2X4GB) to a 4000Mhz (2X8GB) kit hoping this build will turn out nice.

Yea, the monoblock was a great idea, especially running memory at 4.0GHz the 6700K memory controller might put out a little more heat, even with CPU barely running above idle.

I'm in the customization phase of the build, the hardest part (for me), doing everything myself, sleeving pump fans aquaero cables, painting memory mobo (completed), hole saw reservoir mods, passthrough mods, Mayhems Blitzing (completed), PETG bending, my build looks like raw Black&White television from the 1950s (meaning: it's colorless), but that's ok.









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232268&cm_re=gskill_tridentz-_-20-232-268-_-Product

edit addendum: Newegg has a GSkill chat box, I just spoke with Diana, Gskill sales rep and she assured me, my motherboard would have no issues with 4000MHz memory modules, she asked about my CPU, and said I should be fine. Thanks GSkill, very cool integrating manufacturer's chat into Newegg product pages.









_Imagine: if EK had an integrated representative chat box at PPCS.com, for simple questions while you shop. How cool would that be?







_

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5439_zpscljo5qxr.jpg.html


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> no longer available, All my blocks cracked, Im guessing from leaving them dry. I had to change all the block from plexi to Acetal. curse you ek. Here's part of my order. still need to order thicker thermal pads for monarch x4 block. Basically going from clear plexi to black
> 
> EK ASUS M6G MOSFET Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel + Acetal (EK-MOSFET ASUS M6G - Acetal+Nickel)
> EK Monarch Series X4 Ram Liquid Cooling Block Repalcement Top - Acetal Clean (TOP Acetal - RAM Monarch X4 Clean CSQ)
> EK Supremacy EVO Upgrade Kit - Acetal (EK-Supremacy EVO Upgrade Kit - Acetal)
> EK ASUS ROG M6G Southbridge Chipset Liquid Cooling Block - Acetal + Nickel (EK-SB ASUS M6G - Acetal+Nickel)
> 
> I dont think a smoker's house would have those results on your block, sounds like the guys system developed a leak and burned up the pc when the liquid ran out


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> EK didn't offer a reservoir fitting for my case size, and I also needed a specific pump top to fit the DDC pump as well. I have ordered them, just not from EK.


Cool, I just wanted to make sure you didn't forgot anything.


----------



## akira749

New EK-RAM Monarch modules!


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Cool, I just wanted to make sure you didn't forgot anything.


Thanks for making sure!


----------



## Willius

Damn those look nice! I will definitely use those nickel plated ones in my next build!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sup CeadderDaMan?
> 
> Got your Monsoons here ready to send and other stuffs. Just now updated the GSkill TridentZ from 3466MHz (2X4GB) to a 4000Mhz (2X8GB) kit hoping this build will turn out nice.
> 
> Yea, the monoblock was a great idea, especially running memory at 4.0GHz the 6700K memory controller might put out a little more heat, even with CPU barely running above idle.
> 
> I'm in the customization phase of the build, the hardest part (for me), doing everything myself, sleeving pump fans aquaero cables, painting memory mobo (completed), hole saw reservoir mods, passthrough mods, Mayhems Blitzing (completed), PETG bending, my build looks like raw Black&White television from the 1950s (meaning: it's colorless), but that's ok.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232268&cm_re=gskill_tridentz-_-20-232-268-_-Product
> 
> edit addendum: Newegg has a GSkill chat box, I just spoke with Diana, Gskill sales rep and she assured me, my motherboard would have no issues with 4000MHz memory modules, she asked about my CPU, and said I should be fine. Thanks GSkill, very cool integrating manufacturer's chat into Newegg product pages.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _Imagine: *if EK had an integrated representative chat box at PPCS.com, for simple questions while you shop. How cool would that be?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5439_zpscljo5qxr.jpg.html[/URL
> 
> 
> ]
Click to expand...

Niiiiiiiice!









That would be kewl if K had such things. Would make it simpler for sure, not that I can't go to their site to research but it would simplify things for the end user for sure.









~Ceadder


----------



## Akhenaton

Hi guys, I have an EK-DDC X-RES 140 CSQ on my Laing DDC500 and It emits a very annoying and noisy hum.
With the original top the pump is not audible, so the problem is the X-RES.

Am I the only one who has experienced this problem?

I was thinking to change the pump's body with an heatsink like the EK62674, or the Barrow DCHL-V2. Could I resolve? What do you think?

PS: maybe I will take the heatsink anyway, it seems an interesting accessory.
PPS: is NOT a vibrations' problem.


----------



## CroatianSenpai

*1.21 Gigawatts Watercooling Build Vlog Part 6 Installing Water Cooling System*

In this video I will demonstrate how to install the EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 Pump, XSPC Raystorm CPU Waterblock V3 - Intel, Bitspower Fittings, and the EVGA GTX 980 Kingpin Graphics Card. 1.21 Gigawatts Watercooling Build Vlog Part 6 Installing Water Cooling Parts. The build is almost finished. All we have left to do is bend the rigid tubing PETG.


----------



## fishcandy

I'm looking to upgrade my AIO which is an Antec Kuhler 920 (120mm, 49mm thick) push/pull that's cooling my 3570K @ 4.6 Ghz, 1.32v. I want to add my GTX 970 into the loop and have been looking at the EK Predator 240. My question, will the 240 handle both units or will I need to step up to the EK Predator 360? Thanks


----------



## RnRollie

option 1 : throw away the Antec and get a 360 for both
option 2: keep the Antec for the CPU only and add the 240 (360 if you the space) for the GPU only - thus have two seperate loops.

A 240 for both a CPU and a GPU is possible... but it will be impossible to keep it silent, in most cases a 240 for CPU+GPU is just not enough. Unless you are living in a room which is below 18`C


----------



## fishcandy

Thanks RnRollie...looks like it will be the 360 but I have a few more questions if I may. Where to install, front as intake or top as exhaust? Push, pull or push/pull? Which of these combos would provide the best performance? If one is much better then the other, then by how much? I would prefer the top mount if the difference is negligible. Thanks again.


----------



## RnRollie

it depends on the case, the space and how you want it to look

Best cooling results come from having the Radiator on INTAKE air, just to have the coolest air from the room going through the rad first.
And that is independent of placement... it doesn't matter Front, Top, Bottom.. as long as the coolest air hits the radiator/fans first.

The only other thing to take into account is orientation.. having the pump end sitting at the top is most of the time not a good idea... but the Predator should come with pictures on best orientation.

As for fans... it should come with Vardars, they are good








If possible, if you have the room, go for push/pull ... you get better performance for less noise if done right.
If you dont have the room... most fans are slightly better in "push" vs pull... so, where possible, set them to *push* the air through the rad.

Note: while filters are necessary, try to have the least obstruction as possible... some cases have a complete "artwork" on the front in order to allow 25 million type and sizes of fans.. unfortunately that also means a whole mounting mesh which tends to be obstructive.
On the front you can mount combinations of 1 120mm or 1 140 or 2 120 or 2140 or 1 180 or 1 220 , etc etc...
Compare it to the rear exhaust.. most of the time , there you can mount 120 or 140mm and thats it.. so, less obstructions









Ah, the Tt v51 should be able to take a 360 or 420 in the front.... however, the Predator with its attached Pump/Res combo is a bit longer as the usual 360 .... so doublecheck the space... otherwise a roof mounting might be easier


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> A 240 for both a CPU and a GPU is possible... but it will be impossible to keep it silent, in most cases a 240 for CPU+GPU is just not enough. Unless you are living in a room which is below 18`C


I'm pretty sure that EK doesn't make a block for the 970. But they do have Thermosphere. In either case, a 240 should be fine with his setup. It won't if he wants max overclocks on both but it should keep things cool enough for low to mid 50c temps.









~Ceadder


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *I'm pretty sure that EK doesn't make a block for the 970*. But they do have Thermosphere. In either case, a 240 should be fine with his setup. It won't if he wants max overclocks on both but it should keep things cool enough for low to mid 50c temps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You might want to check the Cooling Configurator before saying that. I'm not sure exactly which 970 Windforce fishcandy has, but there were fullcover blocks for the one I searched for.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *I'm pretty sure that EK doesn't make a block for the 970*. But they do have Thermosphere. In either case, a 240 should be fine with his setup. It won't if he wants max overclocks on both but it should keep things cool enough for low to mid 50c temps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might want to check the Cooling Configurator before saying that. I'm not sure exactly which 970 Windforce fishcandy has, but there were fullcover blocks for the one I searched for.
Click to expand...

Looks like you're right. They have one for the non OC version. I'm AMD and they typically don't have blocks for entry level Cards like the r7 270. Just assumed they were that way with nVidia as well.









~Ceadder


----------



## kgtuning

Here's my 970's


----------



## JourneymanMike

I was wondering if anybody here can tell me what the differences are between EF-FC R9 290X (Rev. 1.0) and EK-FC R9 290X (Rev. 2.0), besides compatibility for MSI and Gigabyte model GPU's... Did they modify it with some extra clearances?

Would a REV. 2.0 fit everything that a REV. 1.0 would? Stupid question I know, just got to be sure... There are no stupid questions for me, just stupid mistakes that I make without having asked!


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Here's my 970's


I love those Acetal/nickel blocks with the black backplates, it screams quality.


----------



## killerhz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> I love those Acetal/nickel blocks with the black backplates, it screams quality.


these are so sexy... i wish i did better homework before buying my EVGA 980 Ti Classified. With EK chepin out an reusing the 780 block for mine, and not 100% full coverage no water cooled gpu sexiness for me.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> I was wondering if anybody here can tell me what the differences are between EF-FC R9 290X (Rev. 1.0) and EK-FC R9 290X (Rev. 2.0), besides compatibility for MSI and Gigabyte model GPU's... Did they modify it with some extra clearances?
> 
> Would a REV. 2.0 fit everything that a REV. 1.0 would? Stupid question I know, just got to be sure... There are no stupid questions for me, just stupid mistakes that I make without having asked!


Not exactly sure but it probably has something to do with mounting or configuration of the PCB. I know my MSI 970 Gaming had to use a new block than the other 970 because it had the 1.3 PCB that was arranged completely different.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> I love those Acetal/nickel blocks with the black backplates, it screams quality.


Mmm yup. Looks good!


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> I was wondering if anybody here can tell me what the differences are between EF-FC R9 290X (Rev. 1.0) and EK-FC R9 290X (Rev. 2.0), besides compatibility for MSI and Gigabyte model GPU's... Did they modify it with some extra clearances?
> 
> Would a REV. 2.0 fit everything that a REV. 1.0 would? Stupid question I know, just got to be sure... There are no stupid questions for me, just stupid mistakes that I make without having asked!


I know it has more clearance for bigger caps on the MSI gaming 4g. I have one so I had to ask the same question before. That means it should fit all the same cards as rev. 1 just with a little bit more space around the caps.


----------



## Sazexa

Very soon my friends. Some other stuff needs to happen to the build before hand, but it's almost ready.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerhz*
> 
> these are so sexy... i wish i did better homework before buying my EVGA 980 Ti Classified. With EK chepin out an reusing the 780 block for mine, and not 100% full coverage no water cooled gpu sexiness for me.


It's still a full coverage water block, even if it doesn't cover the entire PCB. All critical components that need cooling have received such (vrms, core, and memory). Yes, a few of the memory vrms aren't actively cooled but for everyday use EVGA stated they do not require active cooling.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Very soon my friends. Some other stuff needs to happen to the build before hand, but it's almost ready.


Thats a lot of coolant...


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Thats a lot of coolant...


I may have accidentally ordered a bit too much.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I may have accidentally ordered a bit too much.


Least it has a long shelf life









Glad to see im not the only one with a pile of hardware awaiting the start of a build.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I may have accidentally ordered a bit too much.
> 
> 
> 
> Least it has a long shelf life
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to see im not the only one with a pile of hardware awaiting the start of a build.
Click to expand...

I can attest the EK stuff has a really good shelf life. Every time I drain my loop it looks just as good as day one. I've reused it many times and keep the extra in a bottle and just shake it up real good every few weeks. It's def my goto coolant now.


----------



## fishcandy

For those who are looking, EK makes a waterblock for the Gigabyte 970 Windforce which is the EK-FC970 GTX WF3. I decided not to water cool this card, instead looking forward to doing so with a GTX 980ti in the near future. As recommended by forum members, will be purchasing the Predator 360 in lieu of the 240 to give me a little more headroom for future upgrades.

My rigs main use is gaming which is done in a small 10'x11' room and that's where the problem lies. I live in Florida where the yearly ambient temps inside my home are around 25.5C, so only after 1 hour or so of gaming the room will heat up to the point where its uncomfortable to play for extended periods. My current CPU temps are 64-72C with the GPU hovering around 72C and that's with a moderate OC.

For now I'm going to mount the 360 at the top as an exhaust. I currently have 1- 200mm & 1-140mm fan as front intake, 1-200mm & 1-140mm top exhaust and 2-120mm intakes placed on the case bottom. All these fans are around 1000 rpm so the noise level is low, but once I remove the Antec 120mm (AIO) cooler, my plan is to place a 140mm fan as a rear exhaust. I sure hope the 360 can deliver the goods. If you see anything amiss here, please let me know.


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys.

So, I got my pump top in, and started assembling the top with connections.

The top doesn't come with an o-ring or new gasket, but it fits fine and (looks like) the default one from my pump works with it. Also, I'm using EK's 90 degree fittings. Do I need something specific to tighten them down, like how the regular compression fittings have the allen key for setting, or do I just squeeze them pretty tight by hand? They still have some rotation even after being set into the pump top, is that normal?


----------



## Ceadderman

Other than putting it together(w/ gasket) in a cross pattern(start with the opposite screw and so on) there is nothing major to putting one together. Just make sure the plate is properly seated on the top and put the block on that.









Hand tighten the fittings to stop + 1/8* turn to seat their orings.









~Ceadder


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> So, I got my pump top in, and started assembling the top with connections.
> 
> The top doesn't come with an o-ring or new gasket, but it fits fine and (looks like) the default one from my pump works with it. Also, I'm using EK's 90 degree fittings. Do I need something specific to tighten them down, like how the regular compression fittings have the allen key for setting, or do I just squeeze them pretty tight by hand? They still have some rotation even after being set into the pump top, is that normal?


Always tighten down fittings by hand. Keep an eye out for leaking at that gasket or the fittings but it should be fine.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> So, I got my pump top in, and started assembling the top with connections.
> 
> The top doesn't come with an o-ring or new gasket, but it fits fine and (looks like) the default one from my pump works with it. Also, I'm using EK's 90 degree fittings. Do I need something specific to tighten them down, like how the regular compression fittings have the allen key for setting, or do I just squeeze them pretty tight by hand? They still have some rotation even after being set into the pump top, is that normal?


Dont run water you should have a o-ring and it should not turn free!!! It will leak like this!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> So, I got my pump top in, and started assembling the top with connections.
> 
> The top doesn't come with an o-ring or new gasket, but it fits fine and (looks like) the default one from my pump works with it. Also, I'm using EK's 90 degree fittings. Do I need something specific to tighten them down, like how the regular compression fittings have the allen key for setting, or do I just squeeze them pretty tight by hand? They still have some rotation even after being set into the pump top, is that normal?
> 
> 
> 
> Dont run water you should have a o-ring and it should not turn free!!! It will leak like this!!!
Click to expand...

+1 since I forgot to add this to my response.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Great price for a 800gb intel 750 and ek has block for it

http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16820167361&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&AID=10446076&PID=7034161

599 and normal price 750 to 1000


----------



## Alastair

I have had them for a while but here are my two Fury's!



I know its not a full EKWB build. But you take what you can get here in South Africa.


Spoiler: Here is GHOST. My full build.
















Any way. I plan to sometime upgrade to thicker rads. An EK PE 360 and a CE280. Or Alphacool XT45's in the same sizes. How much of an improvement do you think you can get going from 30mm thick rads to 45mm thicks?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I have had them for a while but here are my two Fury's!
> 
> 
> 
> I know its not a full EKWB build. But you take what you can get here in South Africa.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Here is GHOST. My full build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any way. I plan to sometime upgrade to thicker rads. An EK PE 360 and a CE280. Or Alphacool XT45's in the same sizes. How much of an improvement do you think you can get going from 30mm thick rads to 45mm thicks?


Depends on the fans but you will have more water volume and this will help also


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I have had them for a while but here are my two Fury's!
> 
> 
> 
> I know its not a full EKWB build. But you take what you can get here in South Africa.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Here is GHOST. My full build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any way. I plan to sometime upgrade to thicker rads. An EK PE 360 and a CE280. Or Alphacool XT45's in the same sizes. How much of an improvement do you think you can get going from 30mm thick rads to 45mm thicks?
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on the fans but you will have more water volume and this will help also
Click to expand...

Well I am going to most likely be sticking to my Aerocool Sharks onm the 140mm side and my CoolerMaster Jetflo's on the 120 side.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Well I am going to most likely be sticking to my Aerocool Sharks onm the 140mm side and my CoolerMaster Jetflo's on the 120 side.


Not sure about you fans never used!


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I have had them for a while but here are my two Fury's!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know its not a full EKWB build. But you take what you can get here in South Africa.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Here is GHOST. My full build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any way. I plan to sometime upgrade to thicker rads. An EK PE 360 and a CE280. Or Alphacool XT45's in the same sizes. How much of an improvement do you think you can get going from 30mm thick rads to 45mm thicks?


Difficult to give exact numbers, but the difference will be minor i think. Probably only a few degrees, thickness and fin density don't really affect temperatures as much as you'd think. It's radiator surface that makes the difference really.

Don't get me wrong though, it will definitely help but don't expect wonders.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I have had them for a while but here are my two Fury's!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know its not a full EKWB build. But you take what you can get here in South Africa.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Here is GHOST. My full build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any way. I plan to sometime upgrade to thicker rads. An EK PE 360 and a CE280. Or Alphacool XT45's in the same sizes. How much of an improvement do you think you can get going from 30mm thick rads to 45mm thicks?
> 
> 
> 
> Difficult to give exact numbers, but the difference will be minor i think. Probably only a few degrees, thickness and fin density don't really affect temperatures as much as you'd think. It's radiator surface that makes the difference really.
> 
> Don't get me wrong though, it will definitely help but don't expect wonders.
Click to expand...

Exactly. Thickness added would be a nominally small performance gain if any. I'd stay with what he's on rather than pull out the wallet to throw money at a thicker Radiator. Unless adding another one for more surface area working together to give better gains. Can't cool below ambient without a chiller so even that may not be worth the cost. Depends on what is being cooled more than anything else. Having another Radiator however, would negate/minimalize increase in hardware temps though the loop will stabilize at it's base temp... hopefully I'm saying this correctly enough to make sense.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> So, I got my pump top in, and started assembling the top with connections.
> 
> The top doesn't come with an o-ring or new gasket, but it fits fine and (looks like) the default one from my pump works with it. Also, I'm using EK's 90 degree fittings. Do I need something specific to tighten them down, like how the regular compression fittings have the allen key for setting, or do I just squeeze them pretty tight by hand? They still have some rotation even after being set into the pump top, is that normal?
> 
> 
> 
> Dont run water you should have a o-ring and it should not turn free!!! It will leak like this!!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> +1 since I forgot to add this to my response.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

The first thing that should have been mentioned was those fittings are rotating fittings, so even when you tighten the knurled base in the port the fitting itself should still rotate, that is normal.


----------



## Papa Emeritus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I have had them for a while but here are my two Fury's!
> 
> 
> 
> I know its not a full EKWB build. But you take what you can get here in South Africa.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Here is GHOST. My full build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any way. I plan to sometime upgrade to thicker rads. An EK PE 360 and a CE280. Or Alphacool XT45's in the same sizes. How much of an improvement do you think you can get going from 30mm thick rads to 45mm thicks?


Why not use the single slot brackets, which comes with the blocks?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Other than putting it together(w/ gasket) in a cross pattern(start with the opposite screw and so on) there is nothing major to putting one together. Just make sure the plate is properly seated on the top and put the block on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand tighten the fittings to stop + 1/8* turn to seat their orings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I used the allen key, as mentioned, that EK sells for their fittings, but I didn't over tighten it. I work with compression fittings (although for electric metallic tubing, as an electrician) very often, and have a good idea of how much is too tight. I test fitted on, then took it off to make sure I wasn't crushing the o-ring.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Always tighten down fittings by hand. Keep an eye out for leaking at that gasket or the fittings but it should be fine.


I tightened in my 90-degree fittings solely by hand to my pump top.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Dont run water you should have a o-ring and it should not turn free!!! It will leak like this!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> +1 since I forgot to add this to my response.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Regarding this post, and the last one, I mentioned that I _left the stock o-ring_ on the pump, but just replaced it with the new pump top. It seems to fit and seal as intended. There's also no gap between the pump base and top, and I've securely tightened the new screws.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> The first thing that should have been mentioned was those fittings are rotating fittings, so even when you tighten the knurled base in the port the fitting itself should still rotate, that is normal.


This is the main thing I was looking for; thanks for that! I've got a good grip and tightened down the fittings pretty well. But I don't think I've over-tightened it like a channel-lock or set of pliers would. Thanks, everyone!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> The first thing that should have been mentioned was those fittings are rotating fittings, so even when you tighten the knurled base in the port the fitting itself should still rotate, that is normal.


Quote:


> This is the main thing I was looking for; thanks for that! I've got a good grip and tightened down the fittings pretty well. But I don't think I've over-tightened it like a channel-lock or set of pliers would. Thanks, everyone!


And thats all you need. The main goal is just to slightly compress the o-ring. too much tightening can squash the o-ring and deform it leaving gaps, and not tight enough will leave the o-ring uncompressed with gaps.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> And thats all you need. The main goal is just to slightly compress the o-ring. too much tightening can squash the o-ring and deform it leaving gaps, and not tight enough will leave the o-ring uncompressed with gaps.


That's what I figured. Similar to some of the fittings when I'm doing rain-tight and such during electrical installations.


----------



## Ceadderman

Considering that I didn't know your abilities when answering your question(s), one cannot be too careful when replying to a question. I'd hate to learn that someone had issues resulting from lack of information. I'm OCD as well so no worries. I get that you're mechanically inclined but not everyone is.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sazexa

Well, I'm back again and causing more trouble!

I just took apart my block to install the proper insert, jet-plane, and Narrow ILM mounting bracket. Upon doing so, I noticed my jet-plane has some damage. It seems, as close as my eyes can tell, to be in good and straight shape. Looking at it with a light source behind it, but, it does have some damage and may be slightly compressed or scratched. I'm thinking it's probably a good idea to consult with EK and ask for a replacement jetplane.

The pictures are the two different sides.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah looks like the plate got sandwiched between the top and the block when it was put together. Assuming that's a new block, that would've been bad juju and why I mentioned making sure it's installed properly before putting the block to the top.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah looks like the plate got sandwiched between the top and the block when it was put together. Assuming that's a new block, that would've been bad juju and why I mentioned making sure it's installed properly before putting the block to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


This was an alternate jet plane packaged with the CPU block. It came in the bag of accessories like that.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah looks like the plate got sandwiched between the top and the block when it was put together. Assuming that's a new block, that would've been bad juju and why I mentioned making sure it's installed properly before putting the block to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was an alternate jet plane packaged with the CPU block. It came in the bag of accessories like that.
Click to expand...











That's just weird then. Not sure how that could've happened during the packaging process, so only thing I have is that it happened during the manufacturing process. Likely when it was pressed. Having worked with presses, I believe that the material wasn't fully seated and secure in the press. That's if they use a press, which am pretty sure they do.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just started collecting the new parts for the revision of JAC:

Still have more to grab and hard to pass on $4.35-50/fitting, and will be snagging a pair of 360 PE's. Debating on snagging a Revo D5 too


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papa Emeritus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I have had them for a while but here are my two Fury's!
> 
> 
> 
> I know its not a full EKWB build. But you take what you can get here in South Africa.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Here is GHOST. My full build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any way. I plan to sometime upgrade to thicker rads. An EK PE 360 and a CE280. Or Alphacool XT45's in the same sizes. How much of an improvement do you think you can get going from 30mm thick rads to 45mm thicks?
> 
> 
> 
> Why not use the single slot brackets, which comes with the blocks?
Click to expand...

would love to. But I have misplaced the slot covers for the expansion slots of my case. So instead of having two gaping holes there I just decided to leave the cards as dual slot.


----------



## Papa Emeritus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> would love to. But I have misplaced the slot covers for the expansion slots of my case. So instead of having two gaping holes there I just decided to leave the cards as dual slot.


Haha, that always happens to me too.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> would love to. But I have misplaced the slot covers for the expansion slots of my case. So instead of having two gaping holes there I just decided to leave the cards as dual slot.


Pretty sure you can buy a pack of ~10 or so for less than $10 on amazon or new egg.


----------



## Radnad

Why doesn't EK sell the Vulture to the masses? It's a shame they keep it to themselves and only special people get to build in it...


----------



## Mega Man

Huh?


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Huh?


He's refering to the case that ek had/has? But never released as a product you or I could buy I believe.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Everyone just complained abnout it, I dont blame them! It was pretty big though


----------



## gdubc

That could have just been a promotional thing to help them gauge the publics interest. You never know, they may be working on another case for the masses.


----------



## Radnad

I thought it was just a promotional thing last year when they did the build off, but now it shows up again...

https://www.ekwb.com/blog/vulture-red-flakes-by-tiche-pc/


----------



## KaffieneKing

If the mobo was moved all the way down to the PSU and added support for a matx board and another 240 rad I'd buy it in a heart beat! (Cost dependant)


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I thought it was just a promotional thing last year when they did the build off, but now it shows up again...
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/blog/vulture-red-flakes-by-tiche-pc/


That was the complaint from the op. As they seem to just make a few for builders to showcase their parts.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> If the mobo was moved all the way down to the PSU and added support for a matx board and another 240 rad I'd buy it in a heart beat! (Cost dependant)


Aside from the 240, that's pretty much what Bneg did with it.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> would love to. But I have misplaced the slot covers for the expansion slots of my case. So instead of having two gaping holes there I just decided to leave the cards as dual slot.
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty sure you can buy a pack of ~10 or so for less than $10 on amazon or new egg.
Click to expand...

Or you can hit up a mom'n'pop computer shop that builds computers for people and see if they have any spares from building a rig. Granted, they might not match the rest of the slot covers, but if you can get enough of the same ones, you can do a full replacement.


----------



## MrPT

My ek duo : xt 360 & pe 480


----------



## DarthBaggins

Can't wait to swap out my Magicools for a pair of EK 360 PE's







, also think I plan on going w/ EK mobo blocks instead of the Heatkiller and still debating going cpu block vs the Cuplex Kryos Delrin I already have (AquaComputers)


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Well, I'm back again and causing more trouble!
> 
> I just took apart my block to install the proper insert, jet-plane, and Narrow ILM mounting bracket. Upon doing so, I noticed my jet-plane has some damage. It seems, as close as my eyes can tell, to be in good and straight shape. Looking at it with a light source behind it, but, it does have some damage and may be slightly compressed or scratched. I'm thinking it's probably a good idea to consult with EK and ask for a replacement jetplane.
> 
> The pictures are the two different sides.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You can open a ticket on our website and we will send you some undamaged jet plates.

Sorry about that









https://ekwb.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You can open a ticket on our website and we will send you some undamaged jet plates.
> 
> Sorry about that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://ekwb.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new


I just contacted support over the weekend! They told me that it should be fine, and not affect my cooling performamce. And as long as it doesn't affect my loop in any negative way, I'm fine to use it.

No need to be sorry, not your fault.


----------



## DyndaS

Not nice colorful cables EKWB... not nice


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> Not nice colorful cables EKWB... not nice


What do you exactly mean?


----------



## DyndaS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> What do you exactly mean?


Pump cables are not sleeved... at least it could be black.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> What do you exactly mean?


The pumps cables are multicoloured.

Nice build BTW, maybe get a sleeved extention?


----------



## catbuster

@DyndaS nice build, very clean, just need needs bigger res in my opinion


----------



## DyndaS

@catbuster

Yes, I know. Last time I had phanteks evolv atx and for that case I coudn't really fit bigger res there.


----------



## kgtuning

Does anyone have EK fittings in chrome and black nickel side by side? Im trying to decide between the two. Please and thank you!


----------



## DarthBaggins

I can take a photo when I get to work as we have the block/black nickel/chrome fittings. There is a sizeable difference in the brilliance between the chrome/nickel and the black nickel


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I can take a photo when I get to work as we have the block/black nickel/chrome fittings. There is a sizeable difference in the brilliance between the chrome/nickel and the black nickel


Oh that would be awesome if you dont mind. I have EK Acetal/nickel blocks so either nickel or black nickel would look great. Just having a problem deciding as usual. Lol.


----------



## hidethecookies

@derickwm @Akira749 Do you know if there is any plans for a white d5 revo pump top? I have the white d5 xtop but love the new mounting setup. It would also match the white res x3 I have.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> @DyndaS nice build, very clean, just need needs bigger res in my opinion


And shorter runs on the tubing...

It is a very nice build! Good job!


----------



## DyndaS

@JourneymanMike

thx


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> @derickwm @Akira749 Do you know if there is any plans for a white d5 revo pump top? I have the white d5 xtop but love the new mounting setup. It would also match the white res x3 I have.


I haven't heard anything about a possible white Revo pump top.


----------



## Benjiw

My girlfriend's rig:

Intel 6600k i5
ASUS Z170 Sabertooth
EVGA GTX 970 FTW
Corsair DDR4 3000MHz CL15
Samsung SM951 128GB NVMe boot drive & 4TB WD Blue
EVGA 750W G2
Fractal Design Define S
Poor quality pic for now but getting the DSLR cam out tomorrow so will add a fresh one. She uses it for university/graphic design work and minecraft... I know, it makes me cry too.


----------



## emsj86

Dump her. Just kidding if that's what she likes than that's cool. Just good to see you got a girlfriend that can share interest in computers. I wish I had it


----------



## iBruce

I dumped a girlfriend a few years ago, who didn't like my CoolerMaster blue LED fans, she especially hated the large 200mm LED fan in front of the case, it was a Corsair 650D, she said it looked childish and made me immature, so I got rid of her and kept the LED fans.









Of course that was a long time ago.


----------



## bigboy678

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I dumped a girlfriend a few years ago, who didn't like my CoolerMaster blue LED fans, she especially hated the large 200mm LED fan in front of the case, it was a Corsair 650D, she said it looked childish and made me immature, so I got rid of her and kept the LED fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course that was a long time ago.


What I find funny is that she didnt realize that men really dont mature after the age of 15-16. We just do a slightly better job at hiding it . My lady knows Im just a giant child at heart and all she can do at times is shake her head and pretend she doesnt know who i am


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigboy678*
> 
> What I find funny is that she didnt realize that men really dont mature after the age of 15-16. We just do a slightly better job at hiding it . My lady knows Im just a *giant child* at heart and all she can do at times is shake her head and pretend she doesnt know who i am


Hah, that's exactly what she called me, I said the fan is a MegaFlow, and she said I was a MegaChild.









She was not a nice person, her dad Russian here in Florida with the Space Program.









I see nothing wrong with this fan at all.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...led_by_muletto46-d34n3kw_zpsqaasvfqj.jpg.html

OK, enough of that, back to EK stuff. One very nice new discovery I will post up in an hour or so, the most beautiful EK reservoir part, so beautiful it changed my build plans.

And I'm taking the next 10days off to complete my build. Having a "build in the background" is very enjoyable while still choosing the right components, but after 14months of assembling parts, now I just want to finish it and see the final product.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5640_zpsps4pasjo.jpg.html


----------



## Willius

@iBruce

Looking forward to it


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Hah, that's exactly what she called me, I said the fan is a MegaFlow, and she said I was a MegaChild.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She was not a nice person, her dad Russian here in Florida with the Space Program.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see nothing wrong with this fan at all.
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...led_by_muletto46-d34n3kw_zpsqaasvfqj.jpg.html
> 
> OK, enough of that, back to EK stuff. One very nice new discovery I will post up in an hour or so, the most beautiful EK reservoir part, so beautiful it changed my build plans.
> 
> And I'm taking the next 10days off to complete my build. Having a "build in the background" is very enjoyable while still choosing the right components, but after 14months of assembling parts, now I just want to finish it and see the final product.
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5640_zpsps4pasjo.jpg.html


Those MegaFlow fans are actually pretty good! I had a red LED version in my Corsair 600T. Luckily for me, though I too am still a giant child internally, my girlfriend is sometimes too. And she doesn't mind what I do with my PC, because she'd rather me be spending money on that, than on my car because "a PC can't hurt you like a car accident can."

Regardless, is that a CaseLabs case? I'm kind of interested in the m-ITX version, if my M1 with a single 240mm radiator doesn't cool as I desire. Though I think I'm more likely to end up with the NZXT Manta.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I dumped a girlfriend a few years ago, who didn't like my CoolerMaster blue LED fans, she especially hated the large 200mm LED fan in front of the case, it was a Corsair 650D, she said it looked childish and made me immature, so I got rid of her and kept the LED fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course that was a long time ago.


Jeeze, maybe I should look her up...

I hate big blue LED fans too!!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Jeeze, maybe I should look her up...
> 
> I hate big blue LED fans too!!


You are bad but I happen to agree with you... How about a phone number bruce???


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys. I'm thinking of a nifty little drain port idea. But I need some info.

Do the extenders add the height in the title, or do you need to subtract tread from that. IE, is a 12mm extended actually less, due to dubtracting for the treads?

Also, EK has a shutoff valve on their site. It says "10mm," so is that the total length of the vavle?

I'm probably not going to get this across to well, but, I'm using an exterior mounted reservoir. It's mounted so that two fittings sit inside the case, and these two fittings are the inlet and outlet for the reservoir. The reservoir has two bottom G1/4 threads though, that are exterior to the case. One on inlet and one on outlet side. My plan was, to exteriorly, was to make a drain spot. But that got me thinking, and it would cause a parallel in the loop. My plan was to go something like this.

I'd basically have a square U-shape mini-loop on the outside of the case, going between the two sides of the reservoir. Using a few compression fittings, a 90° fitting, and a T-fitting with a plug. The T-Fitting woulf have been in the bottom corner on one side of the "U" for draining. After realising the parallel effect of that plan, I'd like to put a shut off valve on either one side, or both, sides of the U-loop, to keep current from flowing through there when not needed.

Unless there is a more efficient way? I'll need to do some illustrations to probably convey this point better.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm thinking of a nifty little drain port idea. But I need some info.
> 
> *Do the extenders add the height in the title, or do you need to subtract tread from that. IE, is a 12mm extended actually less, due to dubtracting for the treads?
> *
> Also, EK has a shutoff valve on their site. It says "10mm," so is that the total length of the vavle?


The threads, are not part of the length of the extender...

If you buy a 20mm extender, it actually adds 20mm to whatever you're extending, no math needed...









On the EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4, it doesn't seem likely. 10mm is awfully short. Maybe 10mm is the diameter of the ball. IDK


----------



## Dave6531




----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*


I had to double take that board. its the same one I have, but I thought it was the pro at first. Well done.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm thinking of a nifty little drain port idea. But I need some info.
> 
> *Do the extenders add the height in the title, or do you need to subtract tread from that. IE, is a 12mm extended actually less, due to dubtracting for the treads?
> *
> Also, EK has a shutoff valve on their site. It says "10mm," so is that the total length of the vavle?
> 
> 
> 
> The threads, are not part of the length of the extender...
> 
> If you buy a 20mm extender, it actually adds 20mm to whatever you're extending, no math needed...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4, it doesn't seem likely. 10mm is awfully short. Maybe 10mm is the diameter of the ball. IDK
Click to expand...

I will pull out the MNPCTech modder's rule when I get mine tomorrow. That or the cheap tape measure I have laying around.
















Just realized you were referring to the EK version not the BP s/o valve. BP is longer, or so I've heard. VSG, would likely have the knowledge on the EK unit since he's posted pics of them iirc.









~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm thinking of a nifty little drain port idea. But I need some info.
> 
> *Do the extenders add the height in the title, or do you need to subtract tread from that. IE, is a 12mm extended actually less, due to dubtracting for the treads?
> *
> Also, EK has a shutoff valve on their site. It says "10mm," so is that the total length of the vavle?
> 
> 
> 
> The threads, are not part of the length of the extender...
> 
> If you buy a 20mm extender, it actually adds 20mm to whatever you're extending, no math needed...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4, it doesn't seem likely. 10mm is awfully short. Maybe 10mm is the diameter of the ball. IDK
Click to expand...

Since valves are typically described by their passage diameter, the 10mm figure would be the ID of the ball passage.

D.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm thinking of a nifty little drain port idea. But I need some info.
> 
> Do the extenders add the height in the title, or do you need to subtract tread from that. IE, is a 12mm extended actually less, due to dubtracting for the treads?
> 
> Also, EK has a shutoff valve on their site. It says "10mm," so is that the total length of the vavle?
> 
> I'm probably not going to get this across to well, but, I'm using an exterior mounted reservoir. It's mounted so that two fittings sit inside the case, and these two fittings are the inlet and outlet for the reservoir. The reservoir has two bottom G1/4 threads though, that are exterior to the case. One on inlet and one on outlet side. My plan was, to exteriorly, was to make a drain spot. But that got me thinking, and it would cause a parallel in the loop. My plan was to go something like this.
> 
> I'd basically have a square U-shape mini-loop on the outside of the case, going between the two sides of the reservoir. Using a few compression fittings, a 90° fitting, and a T-fitting with a plug. The T-Fitting woulf have been in the bottom corner on one side of the "U" for draining. After realising the parallel effect of that plan, I'd like to put a shut off valve on either one side, or both, sides of the U-loop, to keep current from flowing through there when not needed.
> 
> Unless there is a more efficient way? I'll need to do some illustrations to probably convey this point better.


Like @JourneymanMike said, the thread part isn't part of the length of an extender









The EK Ball Valve is 38mm long with an OD of a 23mm.

Like @ITDiva mentioned, the 10mm is the inside passage diameter.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*


The C47s and the white ek bracket are what sets it off







Completely diggin' it.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Just received my x4 Dominator Clean CSQ block. First impression: Soooooo smexy!









Overall impression: My only niggly thing is you can see the machining marks on the surface. None of my other tops show this. I've had the Dual DDC v2(shipping it out to a new home Monday complete with pumps) and a CIVF block as well as a D5 xFlow that I received from iBruce. Not a single one of these has those marks and all are Acetal.









Cannot wait to get my board tied into my loop properly though.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dukman

Just placed the order for the waterblocks for my 980 Ti Classifieds.

Only things left before starting on this adventure is to get everything sleeved and figure what fittings I need and get them purchased.


----------



## Ceadderman

Can confirm Diva's thought on diameter listing of Valves. I just got my BP s/o valve and it is indeed 10mm. I'm reasonably certain the EK unit is same. The length of these fittings are not 10mm. At least the BP one isn't. I'm looking at something that is likely between 25-30mm in length. So I'm reasonably sure that the EK unit will fall within those specs.









Edit:

Q: would it be okay to polish the RAM blocks? I was looking at my new block and while it looks nice, I'm wondering if lapping the cooling surface would hurt it. I know that will immediately void any warranty but I'm thinking of the benefits of doing something like this. One of which is lowering the peaks to allow for better heat transfer from the RAM to the Block..









~Ceadder


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dukman*
> 
> Just placed the order for the waterblocks for my 980 Ti Classifieds.
> 
> Only things left before starting on this adventure is to get everything sleeved and figure what fittings I need and get them purchased.


Grab some small heatsinks for your memory VRM IC's if planning to overvolt the memory at all.

Here is one of my 980Ti Classy's ready for installation.......


----------



## Dukman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Grab some small heatsinks for your memory VRM IC's if planning to overvolt the memory at all.
> 
> Here is one of my 980Ti Classy's ready for installation.......


No plans to overvolt. The cards will see a very mild OC, but nothing spectacular. I had considered getting heatsinks simply just to cover up the exposed VRM's, but you won't be able to see them anyway.

I'm currently trying to decide if I want to add a third card to the mix, but I think that might be overkill and potential issues.


----------



## Sazexa

Well, I didn't have quite enough room outside my case to do what I'd like to have done regarding a drain and shut off valve. But, with my exterior mounted reservoir, I will just put a 45 degree fitting (to send liquid coming out away from the case) and a plug. I'll set my PC down on a table upside, with the edge off the side aimed into a bucket and just let the liquid drain from the loop. Pretty simple solution.

I've also ordered the last necessary pieces for my loop. Getting to fit my whole build together has proven challenged, especially considering this is my first time doing a custom loop of any sorts. I mean, I have my obvious base components like CPU, RAM, board... But I've also got a full-size GPU, SSD, HDD, ODD, pump, two 120mmx25mm fans, and a 240x38mm radiator (EK PE 240) all inside my Ncase M1. My reservoir is mounted externally, because it just wouldn't fit otherwise. But I don't mind, as it's not really intruding on the space of the rear side since the power cable and other cables can't bend that tightly anyways.

I've also had to change my loop design and layout a few times. Finally though I settled on something I like. Now it's a matter of building. I hope to be able to show this build soon, but there's a few finishing touches I need to do before hand!

Also, how much thermal compound is adequate for the GPU? I put some on the die and placed the block on, then removed it before tightening it. It seemed to fill up a good portion of the die, but, without tightening and heat it definitely didn't cover the whole die yet. I'm considering re-doing the thermal compound application just to ensure full die coverage like the stock cooler on the GPU had. It's probably not 100% die coverage right now, but very close to, or more like 85-95% typically found on CPU's.


----------



## whitrzac

Spread it with an old CC/gift card. You want 100% coverage.


----------



## Mega Man

You can spread it, most never recommend doing this as it can lead to air pockets, a pea sized dot or an "x" is what is recommended (make sure you don't use conductive tim) unless working with certain types of tim that are put on via a brush


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Spread it with an old CC/gift card. You want 100% coverage.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can spread it, most never recommend doing this as it can lead to air pockets, a pea sized dot or an "x" is what is recommended (make sure you don't use conductive tim) unless working with certain types of tim that are put on via a brush


I applied similarly to the way you would a CPU. Using the dot-method, but, I used Noctua's NH-T1 compound. (I do believe it's non conductive last I checked.)


----------



## Benjiw

Has anyone had any success to fitting the EK CE 420mm Radiator in a fractal design Define S, because I can't get it to fit and I'm growing more annoyed by the hour as to why it is too wide to fit, and too long to fit in a case that clearly states it can take 420mm radiators, I understand it is 15mm over the 30mm height limit, but even if the radiator was 30mm thick is still wouldn't fit.


----------



## VSG

Different rads have different width and length, let alone just thickness. Fractal may not have accommodated for the worst case scenario. The EK rads tend to be longer than average too.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Different rads have different width and length, let alone just thickness. Fractal may not have accommodated for the worst case scenario. The EK rads tend to be longer than average too.


I think I'm either going to drill the rivets off and then mod a 15mm-20mm spacers into the damn thing. I love the case but the whole selling point for me was the ability to fit a 420mm rad in the roof with no modding but now I'm going to have to mod. When I get a full time job, my first pay cheque is going on a Case Labs case, I'm done buying cases on cases for them not to do what I want them too. A Case labs case will do what I want with the options on their site.


----------



## RebelHell

Looking to buy a couple radiators for my first custom loop in a Fractal Node 804. I've already decided on an EK SE 240 for the visible side of my case. A 240 is all that will fit and the slim is more for aesthetics. On the other side of my case I can use either a 240 or a 280. And here's where I ran into a problem. The EK CE 280 is only 16 FPI, while the PE 240 has 19 FPI split fin. Would I be better off with the larger fans or the higher FPI? The slim is also 22 fpi. Should I just get two slim 240's?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Looking to buy a couple radiators for my first custom loop in a Fractal Node 804. I've already decided on an EK SE 240 for the visible side of my case. A 240 is all that will fit and the slim is more for aesthetics. On the other side of my case I can use either a 240 or a 280. And here's where I ran into a problem. The EK CE 280 is only 16 FPI, while the PE 240 has 19 FPI split fin. Would I be better off with the larger fans or the higher FPI? The slim is also 22 fpi. Should I just get two slim 240's?


Between the CE 280 and PE 240, I would recommend going with the former. Pair it with something like the Vardar F2-140 or similar ~1500-1700 RPM 140mm fans and it will easily outperform the PE. Fin density isn't everything for thermal dissipation.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Between the CE 280 and PE 240, I would recommend going with the former. Pair it with something like the Vardar F2-140 or similar ~1500-1700 RPM 140mm fans and it will easily outperform the PE. Fin density isn't everything for thermal dissipation.


Okay, awesome. Now given an SE 240, CE 280, CPU block, and one full card block, what pump would you recommend? Preferably EK, as I'm already buying everything else from them.


----------



## VSG

Any pump they sell, including the DCP 4.0, will be plenty. Go for the D5 if you can afford it.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Different rads have different width and length, let alone just thickness. Fractal may not have accommodated for the worst case scenario. The EK rads tend to be longer than average too.
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm either going to drill the rivets off and then mod a 15mm-20mm spacers into the damn thing. I love the case but the whole selling point for me was the ability to fit a 420mm rad in the roof with no modding but now I'm going to have to mod. When I get a full time job, my first pay cheque is going on a Case Labs case, I'm done buying cases on cases for them not to do what I want them too. A Case labs case will do what I want with the options on their site.
Click to expand...

Why not take the case back before you void warranty. You should have pretty good grounds for sending it back.


----------



## p5virgin

I just bought some Ek HDC fittings what tube does the majority choose? I plan on buying more fittings but I need to know if there has been any leak reports on these types of fittings or am I good to go


----------



## p5virgin

Heres a pic of my start


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Why not take the case back before you void warranty. You should have pretty good grounds for sending it back.


Not an issue with the rad or the case, simply just not enough room for it to fit, the case simply needs to be larger in capacity and voiding warranty is kind of a thing I like to do anyway. I'm still working on how I want to mod it just yet but I'm pretty sure I'll make a basement/pedestal and flip the roof, bend the lips of the metal round and re-rivet into place then using either aluminium or acrylic make a little extension for the roof and because the front bezel is an extension of it's own I could re-use the original front I/O.

Because the top extension and the added space on the floor I'd have a chance to use a bigger rad on the front or have it purely as air intake.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Corsair 780t. With Full Atx Asus X99 A motherboard. Will an EK Predator 240mm AIO fit above the board?

Dimensions of the AIO say that it is 68mm Thick (With Fans attached and Due to pump Width)

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Corsair 780t. With Full Atx Asus X99 A motherboard. Will an EK Predator 240mm AIO fit above the board?
> 
> Dimensions of the AIO say that it is 68mm Thick (With Fans attached and Due to pump Width)
> 
> TCO


I don't see why not, wish I could pull one of the 240's out of the box here at work and test fit lol


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I don't see why not, wish I could pull one of the 240's out of the box here at work and test fit lol


i fit 2 Predator 360's in my 780T so the answer is yes. most definitely !


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Corsair 780t. With Full Atx Asus X99 A motherboard. Will an EK Predator 240mm AIO fit above the board?
> 
> Dimensions of the AIO say that it is 68mm Thick (With Fans attached and Due to pump Width)
> 
> TCO


i fit 2 Predator 360's in my 780T so the answer is yes. most definitely !

im Also Asus X99 Pro


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> i fit 2 Predator 360's in my 780T so the answer is yes. most definitely !
> 
> im Also Asus X99 Pro


Thank you and Rep.

TCO


----------



## fishcandy

Received my Predator 360 and must say I'm very impressed with the build quality. Installed at top (exhaust) of case and connected the water block using (2 rice grain size) Artic Silver 5.

After playing AC Syndicate (max settings) for an hour+ the temps were 67 65 63 59. My previous AIO cooler, Antec Khuler 920 (120mm) were 72 68 66 64. My 3570K is oc'ed @4.6 ghz, 1.32v and using an oc'ed GTX 970 with stock heatsink (planning to connect the gpu into the loop in near future). Room ambient 25.5C for both test results.

Are these temps normal or should they be lower with the superior 360. Thanks


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishcandy*
> 
> Received my Predator 360 and must say I'm very impressed with the build quality. Installed at top (exhaust) of case and connected the water block using (2 rice grain size) Artic Silver 5.
> 
> After playing AC Syndicate (max settings) for an hour+ the temps were 67 65 63 59. My previous AIO cooler, Antec Khuler 920 (120mm) were 72 68 66 64. My 3570K is oc'ed @4.6 ghz, 1.32v and using an oc'ed GTX 970 with stock heatsink (planning to connect the gpu into the loop in near future). Room ambient 25.5C for both test results.
> 
> Are these temps normal or should they be lower with the superior 360. Thanks


Sounds about right. You don't get much differences in the CPU temp from cooler to cooler due to the Intel IHS. you might be better results using the 360 as an intake so you're not pulling hot air from the GPU over it. You will get a hotter GPU if you use the 360 as a intake though.

Compare here with a 4790K at 1.3V. Look at the H80iGT vs the Predator 360.


----------



## Ironsmack

Well, one of my X2 res tubes cracked.

Is it possible to get an X3 tube and use it with my X2 parts? Or am i out of luck?


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Well, one of my X2 res tubes cracked.
> 
> Is it possible to get an X3 tube and use it with my X2 parts? Or am i out of luck?


No. The x2 has internal threads on the tube and the x3 has external threads so its less likely to crack.


----------



## ITAngel

Thanks to EK amazing customer service. After troubleshooting my pump RPM issue they replaced it and now it works 100% Thanks again!











Next EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR (concentrate 100mL) and maybe another 2x 45* fitting.


----------



## eksblenny

I recently transferred my parts over to a new case with mostly EK watercooling components.


----------



## Akhenaton

Hi guys, I have an EK-DDC X-RES 140 CSQ on my Laing DDC500 and It emits a very annoying and noisy hum.
With the original top the pump is not audible, so the problem is the X-RES.
Am I the only one who has experienced this problem?

I was thinking to change the pump's body with an heatsink. Could I resolve? What do you think?

PS: is NOT a vibrations' problem.


----------



## JCArch

I've finally disassembled my Ncase M1 build and starting moving things over to my X99 build. Here's the beginnings of my new adventure, _"Nickel At Midnight"_


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys. I'll take some better pictures soon, but, here she is running. Temps are much better, wven though i'm only using a PE 240 (240x38mm) radiator and two Noctua NF-F12's.

On Air:
CPU Idle - 25-28°C
CPU 100% Load - 45-50°C
Motherboard idle - 30°C
Motherboard on system load - 45°C
GPU idle - 30°C
GPU load (The Division, max, 3,440 x 1,440 ~two hours) - 80°C
SSD - 22-30°C
HDD - 22°C (off) - 55°C (Running while GPU is at 80°C)

On Liquid:
CPU idle - 22-25°C
CPU Load - 35-38°C
Motherboard idle - 28°C
Motherboard system load - ~40°C
GPU idle - 24-26°C
GPU load load - 35-39°C
SSD - 22-27°C
HDD - 22°C/45°C

So, even non watercooled components got an excellebt benefit. Here's some crappy pictures.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys. I'll take some better pictures soon, but, here she is running. Temps are much better, wven though i'm only using a PE 240 (240x38mm) radiator and two Noctua NF-F12's.
> 
> On Air:
> CPU Idle - 25-28°C
> CPU 100% Load - 45-50°C
> Motherboard idle - 30°C
> Motherboard on system load - 45°C
> GPU idle - 30°C
> GPU load (The Division, max, 3,440 x 1,440 ~two hours) - 80°C
> SSD - 22-30°C
> HDD - 22°C (off) - 55°C (Running while GPU is at 80°C)
> 
> On Liquid:
> CPU idle - 22-25°C
> CPU Load - 35-38°C
> Motherboard idle - 28°C
> Motherboard system load - ~40°C
> GPU idle - 24-26°C
> GPU load load - 35-39°C
> SSD - 22-27°C
> HDD - 22°C/45°C
> 
> So, even non watercooled components got an excellebt benefit. Here's some crappy pictures.


Whoa, that's a lot of tubing! Kudos on fitting everything in there, it looks like it's coming together very nicely! Can't wait to see some polished/final photos!


----------



## JCArch

Double post, my apologies!


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eksblenny*
> 
> I recently transferred my parts over to a new case with mostly EK watercooling components.


Holy crap that is a beautiful system! Nice work! =) What case is that?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Holy crap that is a beautiful system! Nice work! =) What case is that?


Looks to be a Caselabs S5

TCO


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Holy crap that is a beautiful system! Nice work! =) What case is that?


thats sick


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Holy crap that is a beautiful system! Nice work! =) What case is that?


Agreed! I am absolutely in love with everything about not only the case but the build as well.


----------



## Alastair

Just wow at that last build.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Holy crap that is a beautiful system! Nice work! =) What case is that?
> 
> 
> 
> Looks to be a Caselabs S5
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Looks like an S8 to me, only S5 I know of with a front window was one that Gabz modded, and the 8 rear PC slot covers make it pretty definitive.

D.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Looks like an S8 to me, only S5 I know of with a front window was one that Gabz modded, and the 8 rear PC slot covers make it pretty definitive.
> 
> D.










Gotcha. Taking a guess was all. Never owned one myself yet. Looks like an S5 though.

TCO


----------



## Thoth420

I wish I discovered CL chassis before I specced out my build...next one (which with my addiction) will be probably late 2016 or early 2017.


----------



## DarthBaggins

CL is where it's at







lol


----------



## TTheuns

A quick question to those that own a DBAY D5 PWM MX. What is the depth of the unit? I understand the width and height are that of two standard 5.25" slots, but dimensions are nowhere to find.
Thanks in advance!


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pmhtdHylj

Got a new PWM elite pump but managed to cut through one of the wires when sleeving it!, will have to solder it and resleeve.


----------



## iBruce

Wow, that sky blue coolant with that Mercury S8 build is absolutely beautiful.









Suddenly I'm seeing eLoops everywhere, not certain why, only the 140mm PWM version is new since January of this year, maybe their popularity only really took off in 2016, again I'm not sure, but everyone is talking about them and buying a complete set for their new builds.

I only have two 140 PWM eLoops, since I wanted to use some Sanyo 38mm thick fans to move my industrial theme forward, and I'm using (5) Vardar 120mm ERs with a 240mm rad and lower rear exhaust, holding on to those since I found when you place an obstruction (radiator or air filtration) in front of an eLoop the rpms will drop a bit 100rpm to 150rpm, and that's normal for any fan, moving from free flowing to slightly obstructed, but the airflow CFMs drops off to almost NOTHING, it scares me and I'm not sure why it happens, the impeller blades all attached to one another at the blade ends?










I have no scientific equipment here to verify my findings except the ol' hand in front of the fan output sensing airflow, I wish a test lab would concur what I'm seeing.

It's easy to perform the test, I was running my eLoop 140mm fans at 750rpms and placed a simple Demciflex 280mm Flexbay filter in front of them. The rpms drop off to around 618rpm yet the airflow drops to where my hand can barely sense ANY air moving at all. NEXT STEP I tried to compensate for lost fan rpms with the Demciflex in place, by increasing the PWM pwr signal to both fans on a single A6 channel back up to 750rpms, no problem the A6 moved the two eLoops right back up to the 750rpm mark. But *the airflow did not return* to the amount prior to placing the Demciflex. Airflow and rpms did not scale linearly.

I love the eLoops *without the Demciflex* I can run mine at normal sitting distance in the front flexbay up to 75%pwr before I hear them running, amazing and ideal for an inaudible build, and I soft-mounted mine using the CL rad/fan mount as a common substrate for the 280mm rad and the two fans.

The other rad a 240 is set up as Push/Pull, the two lateral push fans are also in pull, pulling air through the side custom Demciflex and of course the other Pull bank is pulling through the radiator so I'm afraid to use eLoop 120s, they just dont PULL air very well, and I can't give up the Demciflex on the side intake, holding on to the Vardar 120s for now.

Sorry to keep rambling, just something I noticed when using eLoops and Demciflex in simulcast, so now I have a 280mm flexbay Demciflex I cannot use, and I wanted my new rig completely filtered from dust.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5613_zpsbd5h9bxb.jpg.html


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> It's easy to perform the test, I was running my eLoop 140mm fans at 750rpms and placed a simple Demciflex 280mm Flexbay filter in front of them. The rpms drop off to around 618rpm yet the airflow drops to where my hand can barely sense ANY air moving at all. NEXT STEP I tried to compensate for lost fan rpms with the Demciflex in place, by increasing the PWM pwr signal to both fans on a single A6 channel back up to 750rpms, no problem the A6 moved the two eLoops right back up to the 750rpm mark. But *the airflow did not return* to the amount prior to placing the Demciflex. Airflow and rpms did not scale linearly.


Bruce,

The Demciflex filters are fairly restrictive however they do an excellent job of trapping dust as you may have noticed.

You will probably not be able to scale RPM's linearly with airflow as I suspect that with the filters in front of the fans the airflow is no longer an undisturbed parallel flow as it enters the fan. It may be playing havoc with its normal PQ curves.

I'm using Phantek PH-140MP fans in my latest build and to be honest they run really well even with Demciflex filters in front of them. Sure there is some drop off in airflow but not as much as you seem to be experiencing. I also really like their noise profile - I run NB eLoop 120's in my other rig and the 140 Phanteks sound just as good if not better than those.


----------



## surfinchina

Some fans stall quite easily if there is restriction on the intake side.
My Phanteks and Noctua Industrials were really bad for this.
My EK 120 ers are ok, but the best fans I've used are the Noctua focused flow ones. I have them in push pull on the intake (through a rad, and they create enough positive pressure in the case so that the EK vardars in push pull through another rad on the exhaust work really well.


----------



## Mega Man

Solution:120mm gentle typhoons

Yep 140mm fans, still not at 120mm level


----------



## seross69

EK Why do you do this to people!!



Why cant this line up with the GPU blocks?????????????????????????? I can understand it being lower but should not be hard to have the ports line up ?????

This does not make any sense for this!!!

@akira749 whyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy???????????????????


----------



## Edge0fsanity

ek wants loops with more squiggly line tube bends for their amusement obviously


----------



## Mega Man

agreed please for the love of all things water, line up at least 1 port !


----------



## WhiteWulfe

You'll get lined up ports if you use two of the same graphics cards









I think part of the problem is the sku nightmare that could occur with such... You'd have to have one for the super tall cards like Classifieds (or deal with everyone complaining about how they didn't support a card that gets watercooled often enough), and then reference, and then everything in between..... And even then you'd have a massively tall eyesore extension for the Intel ssd waterblock.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> You'll get lined up ports if you use two of the same graphics cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think part of the problem is the sku nightmare that could occur with such... You'd have to have one for the super tall cards like Classifieds (or deal with everyone complaining about how they didn't support a card that gets watercooled often enough), and then reference, and then everything in between..... And even then you'd have a massively tall eyesore extension for the Intel ssd waterblock.


dont need to be moved higher just should line up...!!!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> dont need to be moved higher just should line up...!!!


One is a half height card, how would you propose it do its job as a cooling block while keeping prices reasonable AND not compromise on its aesthetics?

Do note, I'm not disagreeing with you about such things (this is, after all, why they created the option to have the ports on the top of these blocks) but finding a solution that works for every ssd and graphics card would he an outright pain - there would be a ton of excess material on most blocks, and then prices on everything would have to be higher, then there would be complaints about the blocks being so expensive all just so they would be the same height overall.


----------



## Daggi

I asked EK about this and this is the answer I got
" At the moment there are no plans for a new revision of EK-FC I750 SSD.
Even with a new revision we can't guarantee that it'll be alligned with every full cover water block because every water block has a bit different placement of terminal port due to different PCB design of graphics card.
"


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> One is a half height card, how would you propose it do its job as a cooling block while keeping prices reasonable AND not compromise on its aesthetics?
> 
> Do note, I'm not disagreeing with you about such things (this is, after all, why they created the option to have the ports on the top of these blocks) but finding a solution that works for every ssd and graphics card would he an outright pain - there would be a ton of excess material on most blocks, and then prices on everything would have to be higher, then there would be complaints about the blocks being so expensive all just so they would be the same height overall.


sorry but you must not be understanding me as the height does not bother me but I would think the ports could be at the same place even thought the ones on the 750 would be lower just to make it easy but I guess if it was all easy then no fun!!!


----------



## Mega Man

and fyi that isnt a GPU, that is a SSD whose ports dont aline with the block


----------



## mus1mus

I have same thought the first time they showed up these blocks. They should line up with the GPUs for crissakes!


----------



## Costas

Do all of EK's GPU blocks line up (lengthwise) anyway.....?


----------



## Mega Man

They should, that does not mean they do however


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> They should, that does not mean they do however


Was actually thinking of this very same issue when designing my build.

I ended up choosing a routing path for my tubing so that the GPU tubing did not go straight down through my case's midplate via fixed pass-throughs.

Makes it easier if I change GPU's and blocks and they don't line up with the old blocks as I can just alter tubing lengths rather than having to re-drill or replace the midplate. The midplate in my Caselabs case is the last panel you would want to have to remove as the whole case requires disassembly for it to come out...


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Do all of EK's GPU blocks line up (lengthwise) anyway.....?


That would pose lesser issues as most people don't mix up GPUs that require different blocks. ie., nVidia and an AMD or to a lesser degree, a Lightning on water and a reference card.









SSD though, when you want the market to use them. And knowing they should be in the PCIe slots, and people who buy them should already have GPU blocks, it's just time for EK to rethink port positioning on their blocks.

A UNIFIED design location of the ports must be established even with GPUs.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> A UNIFIED design location of the ports must be established even with GPUs.


That would be nice but may not be easily facilitated - sounds easy but design differences on GPU PCB's may be the ultimate issue....??

In regards to the ports not lining up - many of us may change GPUs reasonably frequently yet maintain all their other build components so it would be awesome if the ports always lined up but it sounds like they don't.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> That would be nice but may not be easily facilitated - sounds easy but design differences on GPU PCB's may be the ultimate issue....??
> 
> In regards to the ports not lining up - many of us may change GPUs reasonably frequently yet maintain all their other build components so it would be awesome if the ports always lined up but it sounds like they don't.


Can be done.


----------



## JCArch

Hi guys, I've recently set up a loop and have it filled with no leaks, but after filling the loop and trying to power the pump on (EK D5-PWM) it doesn't really move the water at all. It makes some noise, but there are large air pockets in the loop where I can see a small trickle of coolant, so I know it's not moving it with any real force. Any tips for trouble shooting?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Hi guys, I've recently set up a loop and have it filled with no leaks, but after filling the loop and trying to power the pump on (EK D5-PWM) it doesn't really move the water at all. It makes some noise, but there are large air pockets in the loop where I can see a small trickle of coolant, so I know it's not moving it with any real force. Any tips for trouble shooting?


tilting the case can help get past that initial airlock, as long as your res lid is sealed well it shouldn't be an issue to tilt it quite a bit. Just make sure that you don't tilt enough to run your pump dry! also those pumps run a bit weak when powered with no PWM. I've seen several people say that running 5v to the PWM pin will make it run at 100% but I've never tried this personally. You could also use another PC to plug the PWM cable into but that is not an easy fix for most people


----------



## Edge0fsanity

what 0ldChicken said, getting that pump running at 100% will make all the difference when you leak test and bleed. I made that same mistake with my first loop and an ek pwm d5 and spent so much time tilting and shaking the case to get air out. Then i turned i turned on the system the next day and it was like oh so thats how you do it.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> tilting the case can help get past that initial airlock, as long as your res lid is sealed well it shouldn't be an issue to tilt it quite a bit. Just make sure that you don't tilt enough to run your pump dry! also those pumps run a bit weak when powered with no PWM. I've seen several people say that running 5v to the PWM pin will make it run at 100% but I've never tried this personally. You could also use another PC to plug the PWM cable into but that is not an easy fix for most people


I've tried tilting it in multiple directions, even putting it on its sides to no avail. It really seems like it's an issue with the pump. I don't have a second system that I can plug the PWM connector into unfortunately.

I've been running it without connecting it at all, and from what I read it should run at about 60% that way.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

when bleeding 60% is not enough to free up the air trapped inside unless you have a very small loop.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> what 0ldChicken said, getting that pump running at 100% will make all the difference when you leak test and bleed. I made that same mistake with my first loop and an ek pwm d5 and spent so much time tilting and shaking the case to get air out. Then i turned i turned on the system the next day and it was like oh so thats how you do it.


Gotcha, I'll try booting it up to see if that helps. Thanks!


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Gotcha, I'll try booting it up to see if that helps. Thanks!


be sure to set whatever fan header you use to permanent 100% speed in the bios until all the air is out. For an average sized loop i'd recommend running the pump at 100% for at least 24 hours after powering the system on to get all the air out.


----------



## RebelHell

Couldn't you use the 5V PWM pin of an Arduino to control the speed of the pump without powering the PC? I would think this would be the cheapest fix and pose much less risk to your PC while giving you complete control of the pump. Let me know if I'm off base here.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Couldn't you use the 5V PWM pin of an Arduino to control the speed of the pump without powering the PC? I would think this would be the cheapest fix and pose much less risk to your PC while giving you complete control of the pump. Let me know if I'm off base here.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Gotcha, I'll try booting it up to see if that helps. Thanks!


ultimately I would highly recommend checking out this thread here http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101
I dont know why I hadn't thought of it sooner, but it is 100% worth the time and effort to make on of these if you are even going to rebuild one or two times in a couple of years. This way you can be sure your pc wont leak when it is powered on while trying to get through that airlock. It'd be a shame to blow a leak with the PC running!


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> ultimately I would highly recommend checking out this thread here http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101
> I dont know why I hadn't thought of it sooner, but it is 100% worth the time and effort to make on of these if you are even going to rebuild one or two times in a couple of years. This way you can be sure your pc wont leak when it is powered on while trying to get through that airlock. It'd be a shame to blow a leak with the PC running!


Very good read. Thanks for that link. But wouldn't you still want to bleed the system before powering it up? Just because you know it won't leak doesn't mean an air bubble won't keep your CPU block dry.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Very good read. Thanks for that link. But wouldn't you still want to bleed the system before powering it up? Just because you know it won't leak doesn't mean an air bubble won't keep your CPU block dry.


yes, if at all possible. I always have vents/fillports I can crack to get things moving, but without them it can be a huge task to get everything bled. I would at least want water in the cpu block and I'd be hovering over the power switch but if it runs to 100% immediately it'll go really quick


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> yes, if at all possible. I always have vents/fillports I can crack to get things moving, but without them it can be a huge task to get everything bled. I would at least want water in the cpu block and I'd be hovering over the power switch but if it runs to 100% immediately it'll go really quick


Yeah, my fill port idea didn't go over too smoothly. I'm trying to cram a EK 280CE and a 120PE in an S340, and while it doesn't sound like "cramming" would be an appropriate word for a full size case, the custom cooling support isn't the greatest.

I think I just need to find a new case that supports the rads I have and the mods I want to make.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Yeah, my fill port idea didn't go over too smoothly. I'm trying to cram a EK 280CE and a 120PE in an S340, and while it doesn't sound like "cramming" would be an appropriate word for a full size case, the custom cooling support isn't the greatest.
> 
> I think I just need to find a new case that supports the rads I have and the mods I want to make.


look at the case lab cases they can do anything you want them to do!!!!


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> look at the case lab cases they can do anything you want them to do!!!!


Yeah, I have a birthday coming up soon, so hopefully the girlfriend and family are feeling generous! I think I'd either go Case Labs or Parvum.

I'm currently setting up my PC to see if I can get it running. I'll report back with progress. Hopefully it's not a faulty pump!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> look at the case lab cases they can do anything you want them to do!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I have a birthday coming up soon, so hopefully the girlfriend and family are feeling generous! I think I'd either go Case Labs or Parvum.
> 
> I'm currently setting up my PC to see if I can get it running. I'll report back with progress. Hopefully it's not a faulty pump!
Click to expand...

I would go Parvum before I would go CL. Parvum is more unique and customizable. All the CL builds start to look the same after a while...


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I would go Parvum before I would go CL. Parvum is more unique and customizable. All the CL builds start to look the same after a while...


not a fan of the parvums, they all look too busy for my taste. The higher level of customization from the manufacturer is nice though. People are just bored of CL because they're much more popular. You end up seeing basically the same thing over and over because people option them out the same and the layouts end up being the same.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Hi guys, I've recently set up a loop and have it filled with no leaks, but after filling the loop and trying to power the pump on (EK D5-PWM) it doesn't really move the water at all. It makes some noise, but there are large air pockets in the loop where I can see a small trickle of coolant, so I know it's not moving it with any real force. Any tips for trouble shooting?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Hi guys, I've recently set up a loop and have it filled with no leaks, but after filling the loop and trying to power the pump on (EK D5-PWM) it doesn't really move the water at all. It makes some noise, but there are large air pockets in the loop where I can see a small trickle of coolant, so I know it's not moving it with any real force. Any tips for trouble shooting?
> 
> 
> 
> tilting the case can help get past that initial airlock, as long as your res lid is sealed well it shouldn't be an issue to tilt it quite a bit. Just make sure that you don't tilt enough to run your pump dry! also those pumps run a bit weak when powered with no PWM. I've seen several people say that running 5v to the PWM pin will make it run at 100% but I've never tried this personally. You could also use another PC to plug the PWM cable into but that is not an easy fix for most people
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Couldn't you use the 5V PWM pin of an Arduino to control the speed of the pump without powering the PC? I would think this would be the cheapest fix and pose much less risk to your PC while giving you complete control of the pump. Let me know if I'm off base here.


usually not good, you need them to have a common ground
and your psu has 5v line already you can tap off of,

basically @ 5v the PWM is "on" and 0v it is "off, the this is done per second ( iirc 25hz ? ) the longer the 5v is "on" the faster the fans run IE the more they go to 100%
when there is 5v 100% of the time the fan runs at 100%

d5s dont follow pwm spec from intel, that is one of the reasons some mobos and some pwm controllers can noot control them
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> look at the case lab cases they can do anything you want them to do!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I have a birthday coming up soon, so hopefully the girlfriend and family are feeling generous! I think I'd either go Case Labs or Parvum.
> 
> I'm currently setting up my PC to see if I can get it running. I'll report back with progress. Hopefully it's not a faulty pump!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would go Parvum before I would go CL. Parvum is more unique and customizable. All the CL builds start to look the same after a while...
Click to expand...

i dare you to say that about IT Divas builds......

i HATE acrylic cases... ill take the CL


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Yeah, my fill port idea didn't go over too smoothly. I'm trying to cram a EK 280CE and a 120PE in an S340, and while it doesn't sound like "cramming" would be an appropriate word for a full size case, the custom cooling support isn't the greatest.
> 
> I think I just need to find a new case that supports the rads I have and the mods I want to make.


I use my res ports as fill ports (went with res's that had multiple ports just for this) and my bleed ports are just extra ports on my UT60 rads. I don't know how I ever built before I had these!!


----------



## 1966 Mike

Hi,

I am new to custom loops. I asked a question in a general forum and then saw this club.

My question concerns the connections for the EK Revo D5 PWM pump. I jumped the PSU and leak tested my EK system using the molex connector. Awesome......no leaks.

The molex connection has two wires and the PWM connection only has 2 wires. Do I use both connections? Meaning the molex is for power and the PWM connection is for pump speed control?

The pump is so quiet, I would not know if it was on with only the PWM connection.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1966 Mike*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am new to custom loops. I asked a question in a general forum and then saw this club.
> 
> My question concerns the connections for the EK Revo D5 PWM pump. I jumped the PSU and leak tested my EK system using the molex connector. Awesome......no leaks.
> 
> *The molex connection has two wires and the PWM connection only has 2 wires. Do I use both connections? Meaning the molex is for power and the PWM connection is for pump speed control?
> *
> The pump is so quiet, I would not know if it was on with only the PWM connection.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.


*Exactly*

If you plug in just the PWM / tach signal connector, the pump won't run, maybe that's why it's so quiet . . .









If you plug the Molex to a PSU and connect the 4 pin fan type connector to a mobo that does not have the PSU connected to it, it may not run either . . .

The PWM version of the D5 will run at 60% when powered up with the PWM connector not connected to anything.

To make it run at full speed, while the mobo is not powered up, you'd need to connect the green PWM pin to 5V . . . . . THRU A RESISTOR, *NOT* DIRECTLY. (a 2.2K to 4.7K resistor works fine)

Once the mobo has power you can use the CPU / CPU-OPT fan header, or a header of your choice if your mobo support true PWM on other headers.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

as usual more invaluable infos !
Thanks !~ it diva


----------



## TheCautiousOne

SLI 970 Clear Plexi Blocks with Backplates.



TCO


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> EK Why do you do this to people!!
> 
> 
> 
> Why cant this line up with the GPU blocks?????????????????????????? I can understand it being lower but should not be hard to have the ports line up ?????
> 
> This does not make any sense for this!!!
> 
> @akira749 whyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy???????????????????


@seross69, maybe EK will align the ports closer to center and GPU when they manufacture the water blocks for the upcoming Intel Optane 3D XPoint NVMe PCIe drives, sometime between now and after the Computex 2016 dust begins to settle.

I'm holding onto a very old Intel 520 ssd (circa 2012) waiting for that superfast Intel 3D nand to launch.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> @seross69, maybe EK will align the ports closer to center and GPU when they manufacture the water blocks for the upcoming Intel Optane 3D XPoint NVMe PCIe drives, sometime between now and after the Computex 2016 dust begins to settle.
> 
> I'm holding onto a very old Intel 520 ssd (circa 2012) waiting for that superfast Intel 3D nand to launch.


Finally storage speed catching up with everything else just need to get price down!!!


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The PWM version of the D5 will run at 60% when powered up with the PWM connector not connected to anything
> 
> Darlene


Sorry, Darlene, but I have to correct you on this... I own the D5 PWM from EKWB and when I leak tested, my pump couldn't even push up the water to the rad, so I rigged it to run at full speed and once done I checked and defaul speed without PWM cable is set to 10%... That's why it was soo quiet and was barely moving any water... This is at least my experience


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Finally storage speed catching up with everything else just need to get price down!!!


PCIe m.2 SSD's are already getting quite affordable, almost no reason not to get one over a regular ssd as OS drive at this point.


----------



## Ceadderman

^True. Unless you don't have a MB that supports M.2.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> EK Why do you do this to people!!
> 
> 
> 
> Why cant this line up with the GPU blocks?????????????????????????? I can understand it being lower but should not be hard to have the ports line up ?????
> 
> This does not make any sense for this!!!
> 
> @akira749 whyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy???????????????????
> 
> 
> 
> @seross69, maybe EK will align the ports closer to center and GPU when they manufacture the water blocks for the upcoming Intel Optane 3D XPoint NVMe PCIe drives, sometime between now and after the Computex 2016 dust begins to settle.
> 
> I'm holding onto a very old Intel 520 ssd (circa 2012) waiting for that superfast Intel 3D nand to launch.
Click to expand...

Maybe they will get the price down when they launch as well.









Doubtful but since that's the least of my build one can only hope. Maybe then I will jump on one. Unless junior demands a raise.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## 1966 Mike

Thanks Darlene, your a rock star


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The PWM version of the D5 will run at 60% when powered up with the PWM connector not connected to anything
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, Darlene, but I have to correct you on this... I own the D5 PWM from EKWB and when I leak tested, my pump couldn't even push up the water to the rad, so I rigged it to run at full speed and once done I checked and defaul speed without PWM cable is set to 10%... That's why it was soo quiet and was barely moving any water... This is at least my experience
Click to expand...

If this is true, and there's not something else at work here . . . . . like you had the PWM connector plugged to an unpowered mobo . . . .

Then it's an EK only thing that they do, normal ones are not like that . . . . nor should they be.

It's farking dumb as hell to have them run at 10% when uncontrolled for any reason.

I can see some reason why Lang set them up to not run at max with no control connected, (like everything else that's PWM controlled does) but 10% just makes no sense at all. . . .

Who would want Vardar fans if they only ran at 10% out of the box with no controller. . . .

Though you are not the first EK user to say that about their D5.

Darlene


----------



## Sazexa

Well, the M1 project is back on. I believe I've found a way to get everything to fit inside the case. Some pictures inbound.

I need to order one more set of 90 degree fittings. I might also order another 45 degree fitting for a drain port on the under side of the reservoir, but that's a maybe. Other than that, it's finally almost done. Well, the watercooling portion, anyways.




















EDIT: I just realized now that I have mistakenly placed both fittings on the same side of the GPU block, and I'll fix this soon. Too bad I already took the pictures, but, I think everyone gets the idea.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> agreed please for the love of all things water, line up at least 1 port !


How? Almost every GPU is different. We have the most common port lineup out of every manufacturer, but still. If you make it in line with e.g. Titan X, you will sure as hell not going to have it in line with MSI's EK-FCGTX 980 Ti TF5, not Classified. Let alone Fury X. Did I mention EK-FC970 GTX yet? No?

You see where I am aiming at?









Best Regards,
Niko


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Sorry, Darlene, but I have to correct you on this... I own the D5 PWM from EKWB and when I leak tested, my pump couldn't even push up the water to the rad, so I rigged it to run at full speed and once done I checked and defaul speed without PWM cable is set to 10%... That's why it was soo quiet and was barely moving any water... This is at least my experience


Mind saying how you checked? What was the pump RPM with the PWM wire not hooked up? It's a standard Laing D5 PWM so I am still not convinced anything is different with these without any numbers to show one way or the other.


----------



## Thoth420

Hey all so quite a few pages back I had an issue with my build regarding my pump not being recognized by my Q Fan profile most of the time. We all came to the conclusion that it was most likely that the tach sensor in the pump was malfunctioning which is an EK Pump and Res Combo(unsure of the exact model name etc. but it is pictured in my sig rig). It turned out that EK still has a 100% track record with me as the issue was an old BIOS version that my motherboard had shipped with. The latest iteration of BIOS has rectified the problem at least so far.








Thanks again to everyone that assisted in the troubleshooting and EK for making great products and having such helpful support(including admitting the fault could be on their end...something ASUS refuses to ever do).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> agreed please for the love of all things water, line up at least 1 port !
> 
> 
> 
> How? Almost every GPU is different. We have the most common port lineup out of every manufacturer, but still. If you make it in line with e.g. Titan X, you will sure as hell not going to have it in line with MSI's EK-FCGTX 980 Ti TF5, not Classified. Let alone Fury X. Did I mention EK-FC970 GTX yet? No?
> 
> You see where I am aiming at?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> Niko
Click to expand...

set a standard, IE ( and ONLY an example ) from now on the in/out ONLY starts directly after the PCIE bracket,

now is it always the easiest to make that happen when you design a GPU block?

NO

but its it possible ? sure, it may cost more monies but i for one would be willing to pay for it, you would have to do this while not being necessarily the BEST block but maintaining the relative standard

imo it is time to innovate rather then accept the status quo

ime ek is decent at innovation, one of the reasons more and more of my builds have been utilizing more and more EK , so will you now step up to the plate and show us why EK is better ?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> but its it possible ? sure


Not as simple as it sounds.

Even the example of positioning them near the PCIE bracket is no go as it would probably conflict with many SLI bridges.

EK do not have control of the pcb design so what happens when a GPU comes out that obscures that area with some large components or a connector etc... Sort of throws out your standard quick smart.


----------



## Radnad

Gonna duck after this post and I've said it before, but the problem with the intel SSD water block isn't that the ports don't line up with anything, its that it really never should have been made in the first place. Just because intel "asks" doesn't mean EK has to bend over backwards for them. I love EK, but there are so many other things that users constantly ask for that EK won't make, and please don't give me that line about "oh but it DOES run hot enough it needs it", seriously?? Show me a pic of a thermo aimed at it while it explodes into flames and then I will listen.


----------



## Mega Man

this is why i highlighted "example " i used that as it is easy to picture, NOT that it needs to be right there, but standardize it SOMEWHERE


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Not as simple as it sounds.
> 
> Even the example of positioning them near the PCIE bracket is no go as it would probably conflict with many SLI bridges.
> 
> EK do not have control of the pcb design so what happens when a GPU comes out that obscures that area with some large components or a connector etc... Sort of throws out your standard quick smart.


Not to mention the fact that there is no set standard on where vrms are placed, or one company might change the layout of where memory (or memory vrms) are placed on the PCB, or the company puts extra "stuff" on the back with blue LEDs because they said that said extra stuff made things stabler...

If every single PCB was made the same we'd have the Fury X silliness again, or everything would just be reference and only the cooler would be the same, thereby removing a lot of the "fun" aspects of things.


----------



## SteezyTN

Just sold one of my Titan X Red backplates. That thing was gorgeous. Hated getting rid of the card, but at least I still have one more


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Not as simple as it sounds.
> 
> Even the example of positioning them near the PCIE bracket is no go as it would probably conflict with many SLI bridges.
> 
> EK do not have control of the pcb design so what happens when a GPU comes out that obscures that area with some large components or a connector etc... Sort of throws out your standard quick smart.


Well, just to site a basic one, not trying to say, everything should be the same always,







Makes me think,









IMO, setting a standard port distance from the PCIe brackets is a good way to start.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

But even if the ports are all in the same spot, there's no guarantee that they would be able to route the channels in the most efficient of ways AND avoid anything on the PCB that happens to be sticking up just enough to either cause a clearance issue, or worse cause a short circuit and then you have a situation of acrid smoke and bad smell being released the instant the board gets power.

Most people if they're going with multiple cards are going to get two of the exact same card (and even the exact same sku) in order to prevent compatibility issues as well as allow everything to match up when putting waterblocks on their cards.

Yes, an Intel ssd won't have the same height as pretty much any gpu out there, but that's why they offered other tricks and tools so one could incorporate them into various loops.

And while some people might be willing to spend more, if you add an extra 25-30% to a waterblock some people will just go "nope, it would break my budget so I'll just stick with air cooling or closed loop coolers" or would cause water cooling to be considered even more expensive than it already is perceived to be. I'd rather use water blocks that are designed to use as little material as possible with efficient routing (and hopefully get the cost savings due to efficiency) than to have giant monstrosities of blocks that don't cool properly or are more expensive just for the sake of supposed easier compatibility between blocks,in a scenario not that many would normally find themselves in.


----------



## Mega Man

imo anyone buying these new intel ssds, isnt going to complain about cost, nor will people buying 970s 980s 980tis


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Well, the M1 project is back on. I believe I've found a way to get everything to fit inside the case. Some pictures inbound.
> 
> I need to order one more set of 90 degree fittings. I might also order another 45 degree fitting for a drain port on the under side of the reservoir, but that's a maybe. Other than that, it's finally almost done. Well, the watercooling portion, anyways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I just realized now that I have mistakenly placed both fittings on the same side of the GPU block, and I'll fix this soon. Too bad I already took the pictures, but, I think everyone gets the idea.


Damn! That is tight and pretty cool looking for a tiny case. I can't complain not having space and being able to work well with what i have. After looking at this, I keep my mouth shut.


----------



## tiborrr12

Regarding the PCI bracket offset distance for FC Terminal. This is what we always aim at, but it's impossible in at least 50% of the cases.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mind saying how you checked? What was the pump RPM with the PWM wire not hooked up? It's a standard Laing D5 PWM so I am still not convinced anything is different with these without any numbers to show one way or the other.


The regular EK-D5 PWM (EAN: 3831109862650) is/was exactly the same pump everybody else is selling.

The EK-D5 PWM G2 on the other hand is a pump with a completely new PWM program: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-pwm-g2-motor-12v-dc-pwm-pump-motor
Quote:


> Operational regime:
> - PWM duty cycle: ~ 20-100%
> - Default behavior: Runs at 100% duty cycle when no PWM feedback signal is present


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Regarding the PCI bracket offset distance for FC Terminal. This is what we always aim at, but it's impossible in at least 50% of the cases.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mind saying how you checked? What was the pump RPM with the PWM wire not hooked up? It's a standard Laing D5 PWM so I am still not convinced anything is different with these without any numbers to show one way or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> The regular EK-D5 PWM (EAN: 3831109862650) is/was exactly the same pump everybody else is selling.
> 
> The EK-D5 PWM G2 on the other hand is a pump with a completely new PWM program: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-pwm-g2-motor-12v-dc-pwm-pump-motor
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Operational regime:
> - PWM duty cycle: ~ 20-100%
> - Default behavior: Runs at 100% duty cycle when no PWM feedback signal is present
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

The hidden feature here is that I'd bet that this will work right out of the box with an Aquaero, like the PWM 35X DDC's do. . . . no Diva mod needed . . .









Either way, neither pump should be running at 10% with the PWM connector unplugged.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Well that was unexpected. I wonder if this is going to work out of the box with the Aquaero, unless the planned Signalkuppe is coming out soon to accompany this.


----------



## tiborrr12

Yes, same behavior as the DDC PWM, so expect the same results. This one is squeezing Diva out of adapter business









Regards,
Niko


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well that was unexpected. I wonder if this is going to work out of the box with the Aquaero, unless the planned Signalkuppe is coming out soon to accompany this.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Yes, same behavior as the DDC PWM, so expect the same results. This one is squeezing Diva out of adapter business
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Niko


Then riddle me this,

How come the graph on the EK site for the "normal" PWM D5 is so much different than the ones that have been published ever since it came out? . . . . and why not give buyers a choice, or at least tell them which motor is standard on the pump they are purchasing . . . . .

Seems the G2 is only available in "motor only" form.

PWM/RPM graph on EK site for PWM revo:



Originally published graph:



Did lang change the internals?

Or is the EK variant different . . . .

Seems we only run into this 10% thing . . . can't fill/bleed a new loop . . . . with EK D5's

Darlene


----------



## tiborrr12

The second graph is not correct, I have original Xylem datasheet here proving this. Currently available off-the-shelf D5 by Xylem always has cutoff at 10% PWM duty cycle, at least the most commonly shipped motor.

EK-D5 PWM G2 is integrated into every EK D5 PWM product now. We will not carry original Xylem D5 PWM any more.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> The second graph is not correct. Currently available off-the-shelf D5 by Xylem always has cutoff at 10% PWM duty cycle, at least the most commonly shipped motor.


Wonder if you guys that get stock from Europe get a different unit . . . .

All the ones I've had here over the years follow the lower graph pretty closely and have a default of ~60% rpm with no PWM connection . . .

Are you saying that the ones you get really do run at 10% with no PWM connection!

That's useless . . . . barking farking mad . . .

D.


----------



## tiborrr12

All D5s are made in Hungary, some 300km from where I am currently.

And no, without PWM the original Xylem D5 always runs on 60%!

10% means that you can actually stop the pump when PWM duty cycle feedback pin is present and below 10%. This is useful in e.g. marine application since you don't need expensive relays.

10% is the treshold for the START-STOP function on original D5.

Original Xylem D5:
- No PWM connected: runs at 60% duty cycle
- PWM below 10%: pump motor soft power off
- PWM above 10%: pump motor soft power on
- Controlling range: 10-100%

EK-D5 PWM G2 doesn't have START-STOP function anymore and can be controlled from 20-100%. When PWM is not connected (no PWM feedback) it runs at 100%


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> All D5s are made in Hungary, some 300km from where I am currently.
> 
> And no, without PWM the original Xylem D5 always runs on 60%!
> 
> 10% means that you can actually stop the pump when PWM duty cycle feedback pin is present and below 10%. This is useful in e.g. marine application since you don't need expensive relays.
> 
> 10% is the treshold for the START-STOP function on original D5.
> 
> Original Xylem D5:
> - No PWM connected: runs at 60% duty cycle
> - PWM below 10%: pump motor soft power off
> - PWM above 10%: pump motor soft power on
> - Controlling range: 10-100%
> 
> EK-D5 PWM G2 doesn't have START-STOP function anymore and can be controlled from 20-100%. When PWM is not connected (no PWM feedback) it runs at 100%


Yes, I found the pump can be turned off if the PWM line is grounded, 0% . . . starts back up at about 8% . . .

Probably some latitude with individual units in that very low range, but the original PWM D5 can definitely be turned off with PWM control.

So any idea where these guys are coming on here and saying EK told them that their D5 is supposed to un at only 10% with no PWM connection are getting that idea???

D.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> So any idea where these guys are coming on here and saying EK told them that their D5 is supposed to un at only 10% with no PWM connection are getting that idea???


I haven't seen or heard anybody from EK saying the D5 PWM runs at 10% w/o PWM feedback present.

I don't know where they get that idea. The forums in general can be full of baseless statements, rumors and other unverified information. Hearsay mostly.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> So any idea where these guys are coming on here and saying EK told them that their D5 is supposed to un at only 10% with no PWM connection are getting that idea???
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't seen or heard anybody from EK saying the D5 PWM runs at 10% w/o PWM feedback present.
> 
> I don't know where they get that idea. The forums in general can be full of baseless statements, rumors and other unverified information. Hearsay mostly.
Click to expand...

This is the latest post that got all this 10% crap started again ;
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The PWM version of the D5 will run at 60% when powered up with the PWM connector not connected to anything
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, Darlene, but I have to correct you on this... I own the D5 PWM from EKWB and when I leak tested, my pump couldn't even push up the water to the rad, so I rigged it to run at full speed and once done I checked and defaul speed without PWM cable is set to 10%... That's why it was soo quiet and was barely moving any water... This is at least my experience
Click to expand...

I'm really glad you were here and gave us all the info . . . . . .

Now about that Signalkuppe thing . . . . . .









Darlene


----------



## JCArch

Okay, after trying to power up the computer to get the pump moving at full speed ( I know, not the safest way to do things) the pump is now completely unresponsive. I've tried going into the BIOS to power the CPU Fan to 100% and still, nothing. I have the molex plug connected via a molex to SATA adapter. Is there any way this could be a problem? I'm starting to run out of ideas here.

I have a Swiftech MCP655 not being used, so worst case scenario I can just drain the loop and try using that pump.


----------



## tiborrr12

Faulty pump, send it for replacement.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1966 Mike*
> 
> Thanks Darlene, your a rock star


Oh, she's much more than a rock star, she's also _my secret love interest_.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Regarding the PCI bracket offset distance for FC Terminal. This is what we always aim at, but it's impossible in at least 50% of the cases.
> The regular EK-D5 PWM (EAN: 3831109862650) is/was exactly the same pump everybody else is selling.
> 
> The EK-D5 PWM G2 on the other hand is *a pump with a completely new PWM program*: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-pwm-g2-motor-12v-dc-pwm-pump-motor


























As long as you don't "force bundle" it with pump tops as the ONLY way to acquire the pump tops both dual and single, we'll all be very happy.

(and sleep soundly at night)

Wait, are you saying this new D5 PWM works with an Aquaero 6? Seamlessly?*
*

.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This is the latest post that got all this 10% crap started again ;
> I'm really glad you were here and gave us all the info . . . . . .
> 
> Now about that Signalkuppe thing . . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Don't know if it is crap that I started this, but I recall correctly, because it happened less than a month ago. The RPM readout was 826RPM which falls under 10-20% speed... The pump couldn't even push up the water up a tube to the radiator. I saw the numbers in BIOS, so I guess it was trustworthy


----------



## SteezyTN

Wait, so the EK PWM D5 doesn't have problems with the "Intel PWM" thing (that thing where @IT Diva does that mod for it to work with the aquaero)?

I have an XSPC D5 PWM and I can't use it with my Corsair Link commander mini because it doesn't detect the signal, or it doesn't run at max speed. I can't really remember because I've been running it from my motherboard fine for a few months.

I ordered XSPC reservoir combos and when I ordered my second one, PPCS was out of stock of the XSPC PWM D5 pump, so they swapped it for a swiftech PWM D5. The swiftech has no problems with PWM control.

If that's the case with the EK, maybe later I'll swap my XSPC one for the EK version or a Swiftech one.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> *Wait, so the EK PWM D5 doesn't have problems with the "Intel PWM" thing* (that thing where @IT Diva does that mod for it to work with the aquaero)?
> 
> I have an XSPC D5 PWM and I can't use it with my Corsair Link commander mini because it doesn't detect the signal, or it doesn't run at max speed. I can't really remember because I've been running it from my motherboard fine for a few months.
> 
> I ordered XSPC reservoir combos and when I ordered my second one, PPCS was out of stock of the XSPC PWM D5 pump, so they swapped it for a swiftech PWM D5. The swiftech has no problems with PWM control.
> 
> If that's the case with the EK, maybe later I'll swap my XSPC one for the EK version or a Swiftech one.


That's what I'm asking, will the Generation 2 EK D5 PWM work without a Diva mod?









At least EK put a sticker on it this time, but did they also add some internal circuitry underneath that sticker?









If they did, they would sell Billions!









Although I still believe the exclusive forced bundling is SO WRONG...

.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> That's what I'm asking, will the Generation 2 EK D5 PWM work without a Diva mod?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least EK put a sticker on it this time, but did they also add some internal circuitry underneath that sticker?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If they did, they would sell Billions!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although I still believe the exclusive forced bundling is SO WRONG...
> 
> .


My solution for the aquaero was the corsair link. $150 cheaper lol. If it is true, I may just take a lose on my XSPC PWM D5 and go with the EK. I'd prefer to have all my fan/pump control within one software.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> My solution for the aquaero was the corsair link. $150 cheaper lol. If it is true, I may just take a lose on my XSPC PWM D5 *and go with the EK*. I'd prefer to have all my fan/pump control within one software.


..."and go with EK" is the key phrase. We all want to go with EK to a greater extent, if they would only let us.

If I was making decisions at EK I would modify a new gen of D5 PWMs so they are indeed compatible with the system controller most enthusiasts now choose to use, you will sell more D5s and diffuse the exclusive pump bundling issue ever so slightly.

Then when SignalKuppe does launch as we all hope it will the EK D5 PWMs will already be in compliance and able to function with the new EK System Controller.

Sounds like a seamless transition to me. Let's cross our fingers the new gen 2 pumps contain the IT Diva mod or something functionally similar.

I realize OCN is not the entire EK global market, but I cannot believe other enthusiast groups around the world would feel any different that we do.









.


----------



## bluej511

Now if only ek made a waterblock for the Sapphire r9 390 Nitro it would solve my back pressure issues i have with the Alphacool gpx block. Come on ek step your game. Im only 800km from you guys and would love to buy a low restriction block.

Back on topic, i just installed the naked ivy screws and they are flawless, so absolutely easy to install.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Wait, are you saying this new D5 PWM works with an Aquaero 6? Seamlessly?*
> *.


If the DDC does, so does the EK-D5 PWM G2.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> If the DDC does, so does the EK-D5 PWM G2.


IF that's true, then I'm officially delirious.























...The ladies danced, the children sang, the men made the fire, and everyone in the humble village knew this day would be remembered forever.










https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-pwm-g2-motor-12v-dc-pwm-pump-motor

.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> *Wait, so the EK PWM D5 doesn't have problems with the "Intel PWM" thing (that thing where @IT Diva does that mod for it to work with the aquaero)?
> 
> *I have an XSPC D5 PWM and I can't use it with my Corsair Link commander mini because it doesn't detect the signal, or it doesn't run at max speed. I can't really remember because I've been running it from my motherboard fine for a few months.
> 
> I ordered XSPC reservoir combos and when I ordered my second one, PPCS was out of stock of the XSPC PWM D5 pump, so they swapped it for a swiftech PWM D5. The swiftech has no problems with PWM control.
> 
> If that's the case with the EK, maybe later I'll swap my XSPC one for the EK version or a Swiftech one.


It's the new G2 from EK, that on the website is only available as a "motor only", that works with the Aquaero, no Diva mod required.

The regular PWM D5 that comes when you order a pump assembly does not, unless EK decides to offer the option of which pump you want when you buy the assemble pump.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> *Wait, so the EK PWM D5 doesn't have problems with the "Intel PWM" thing* (that thing where @IT Diva does that mod for it to work with the aquaero)?
> 
> I have an XSPC D5 PWM and I can't use it with my Corsair Link commander mini because it doesn't detect the signal, or it doesn't run at max speed. I can't really remember because I've been running it from my motherboard fine for a few months.
> 
> I ordered XSPC reservoir combos and when I ordered my second one, PPCS was out of stock of the XSPC PWM D5 pump, so they swapped it for a swiftech PWM D5. The swiftech has no problems with PWM control.
> 
> If that's the case with the EK, maybe later I'll swap my XSPC one for the EK version or a Swiftech one.
> 
> 
> 
> *That's what I'm asking, will the Generation 2 EK D5 PWM work without a Diva mod?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least EK put a sticker on it this time, but did they also add some internal circuitry underneath that sticker?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If they did, they would sell Billions!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although I still believe the exclusive forced bundling is SO WRONG...
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Yes, the G2 model ONLY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Wait, are you saying this new D5 PWM works with an Aquaero 6? Seamlessly?*
> *.
> 
> 
> 
> If the DDC does, so does the EK-D5 PWM G2.
Click to expand...

And indeed the PWM DDC 35X works fine with e AQ, right out of the box.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

That is awesome thanks ek,will this be selling bundled with your new dual pwm pump top?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That is awesome thanks ek,will this be selling bundled with your new dual pwm pump top?


I am Grrrrrrrrrr on this issue, but at least its a meet-us-half-way compromise.

Long live the EK Serial Dual Top!









It's so Beautiful!









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...inline_nbt0js25uz1qfkjm4_zpsvhivzvcj.gif.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5621_zpskvksc3qx.jpg.html


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This is the latest post that got all this 10% crap started again ;
> I'm really glad you were here and gave us all the info . . . . . .
> 
> Now about that Signalkuppe thing . . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know if it is crap that I started this, but I recall correctly, because it happened less than a month ago. The RPM readout was 826RPM which falls under 10-20% speed... The pump couldn't even push up the water up a tube to the radiator. I saw the numbers in BIOS, so I guess it was trustworthy
Click to expand...

The ~810 rpm number is the lowest speed that the typical PWM D5 can operate at.

It runs at this speed when the PWM line is pulled low, but not actually to ground.

This happens sometimes when guys are using a second or auxiliary PSU to run the pump for filling /bleeding and have the PWM connector plugged to the mobo, but the mobo may not be powered on or have the cables connected.

It can also probably occur, with just the main PSU being jumped to power the pump, but with no cables to the mobo.

It's right there from the EK Guru himself, their regular PWM D5 runs at 60% by default . . . .anything else and you have a faulty pump, or something else you didn't mention going on.

If the aux PSU and main MOBO PSU do not share a common ground, the PWM signal isn't properly defined for the pump, and instead of running at 60%, it just drops to minimum . . .

D.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That is awesome thanks ek,will this be selling bundled with your new dual pwm pump top?


Based on the post below, it does seem like it:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> EK-D5 PWM G2 is integrated into every EK D5 PWM product now. We will not carry original Xylem D5 PWM any more.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I am Grrrrrrrrrr on this issue, but at least its a meet-us-half-way compromise.
> 
> Long live the *EK Serial Dual Top*!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *It's so Beautiful!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...inline_nbt0js25uz1qfkjm4_zpsvhivzvcj.gif.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5621_zpskvksc3qx.jpg.html




I have to disagree with you on that.

TCO


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> I have to disagree with you on that.
> 
> TCO


That's cool, aesthetics are subjective after all.

Some still love the look of the prior generation EK D5 Dual top much better, I understand.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That is awesome thanks ek,will this be selling bundled with your new dual pwm pump top?
> 
> 
> 
> Based on the post below, it does seem like it:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> *EK-D5 PWM G2 is integrated into every EK D5 PWM product now. We will not carry original Xylem D5 PWM any more*.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

But it looks like this going to be a crapshoot for the next weeks or months as the phase in completes . . . . plus existing original stock at the usual etail sources.

The graph on the Revo page certainly doesn't match to the G2 profile just posted.

D.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> But it looks like this going to be a crapshoot for the next weeks or months as the phase in completes . . . . plus existing original stock at the usual etail sources.
> 
> The graph on the Revo page certainly doesn't match to the G2 profile just posted.
> 
> D.


PPCS has (4) left with I would assume the older Lowara pumps.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial-incl-2x-pump.html

Who couldn't love a face like this?


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> D.


I get what you are saying, D., but I still stand by my word... I dont have a second psu, I just did everything "by the book"... 24 with a bridging plug from ekwb and only thing connected was the pumps molex... 4pin was disconnected and so was everything else. So only pump molex and 24pin bridged to start up, nothing else... And I don't brlieve the pump is faulty because now I can control it without issues, I set it in BIOS to run at 50% minimum and my system runs flawlessly







I don't want to start a flame war, it is just how this happened to me


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> But it looks like this going to be a crapshoot for the next weeks or months as the phase in completes . . . . plus existing original stock at the usual etail sources.
> 
> The graph on the Revo page certainly doesn't match to the G2 profile just posted.
> 
> D.


So I've been reading the past few pages of discussion. Am I to understand that the EK-XRES Revo D5 PWM that I just purchased from PPCS will not work with the Corsair Commander Mini? The pump itself is Lowara branded.


----------



## Mega Man

It will work, you have a 50-50 shot of it working without issues,

If it doesn't you need to do the diva mod, very easy to do


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It will work, you have a 50-50 shot of it working without issues,
> 
> If it doesn't you need to do the diva mod, very easy to do


By 50-50 chance do you mean whether I'm using Intel or AMD? The Intel boards seem to have the issue from what I've seen so far. I was thinking if the Link Commander didn't work I could always use the MB header but if Intel boards are a problem I'm screwed there as well. I'll be using an Asus Maximus VI Impact (unless I find a cheap used Maximus VII Gene through some miracle).

And the "Diva Mod", I'm assuming it hasn't changed from the following? There's a lot of material to sift through.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, . . . .
> 
> There's a really good way with an add-on PCB, but there's also a quick and easy way that yields acceptable results without having to run wires and plug into a 5V molex pin somewhere.
> 
> Here's copied from the "old" A6 thread with some additional information:
> 
> For the capable DIY'er . . .
> 
> While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
> 
> At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It will work, you have a 50-50 shot of it working without issues,
> 
> If it doesn't you need to do the diva mod, very easy to do
> 
> 
> 
> By 50-50 chance do you mean whether I'm using Intel or AMD? The Intel boards seem to have the issue from what I've seen so far. I was thinking if the Link Commander didn't work I could always use the MB header but if Intel boards are a problem I'm screwed there as well. I'll be using an Asus Maximus VI Impact (unless I find a cheap used Maximus VII Gene through some miracle).
> 
> And the "Diva Mod", I'm assuming it hasn't changed from the following? There's a lot of material to sift through.
Click to expand...

intel or amd it does not matter

50-50 i mean it may work, it may not no way to know unless you try

you seem to be talking about what i call " pseudo pwm ports "

it plagues our hobby unfortunately

motherboards advertise / state their mobos 4 pin headers are pwm and they are not... they load the pwm pin with 5v ( making it run at 100% ) then use voltage control ( either rapidly turning on and off the 12v or by actual voltage control ) to control the fan

MOST mobos the cpu/cpu opt are th eonly pwm port ( really 1 port mirrored with 2 rpm monitoring

my 990ffxud7 is one of few boards with true 2 different pwm ports ( cpu and iirc chan 1 ) my cvfz and RIVBE supposedly the opt fan ports are true pwm but you have to install a 4thermister on the opt temp ports .... never tested it to find out, dont care...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, . . . .
> 
> There's a really good way with an add-on PCB, but there's also a quick and easy way that yields acceptable results without having to run wires and plug into a 5V molex pin somewhere.
> 
> Here's copied from the "old" A6 thread with some additional information:
> 
> For the capable DIY'er . . .
> 
> While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
> 
> At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
> 
> 
> 
> correct
Click to expand...


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> I get what you are saying, D., but I still stand by my word... I dont have a second psu, I just did everything "by the book"... 24 with a bridging plug from ekwb and only thing connected was the pumps molex... 4pin was disconnected and so was everything else. So only pump molex and 24pin bridged to start up, nothing else... And I don't brlieve the pump is faulty because now I can control it without issues, I set it in BIOS to run at 50% minimum and my system runs flawlessly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't want to start a flame war, it is just how this happened to me
Click to expand...

This is my opinion on this, you can ignore if you want, I don't mind.









My loop always have air lock problem (with the top radiator) when initially filling the loop. The D5 pump even at max speed running silently which can make me think it doesn't run or running at low speed. I can overcome the air lock by either tilting the case or just on-off the pump (e.g. running the pump for a minute, then off, after few seconds on again, repeat). What I'm saying is if i ask anyone that not familiar with my loop will easily blame the pump.

You said that when check the pump speed later in the BIOS it was running at 8xxRPM which is ~10% but at this time not only RPM connector is connected, the PWM connector is connected as well. So it can not use as a prove that the pump was running at 10% while filling & bleeding the loop. The best way to know what is the default speed of the pump when only the molex plug is connected, is by *only* connecting the RPM cable to the fan header.


----------



## saxovtsmike

My pwm 3.2 Elite Laing DDC won´t work with my Maximus Viii Forumla PWM Headers.
The main problem is that the fanXpert software does a Checkup/testrun before you can alter the pwm settings in the graph over temperature.
It seems that the Laing doesn´t respond fast enough for the software.

Does anyone has had a more positive experience with EKWB PWM Laings ?


----------



## plant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saxovtsmike*
> 
> My pwm 3.2 Elite Laing DDC won´t work with my Maximus Viii Forumla PWM Headers.
> The main problem is that the fanXpert software does a Checkup/testrun before you can alter the pwm settings in the graph over temperature.
> It seems that the Laing doesn´t respond fast enough for the software.
> 
> Does anyone has had a more positive experience with EKWB PWM Laings ?


Why not just enter your settings in the bios?


----------



## saxovtsmike

haven´t tried yet, but thanks for the input, will check that and report


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ...
> correct


Gotcha, thanks for the clarification. I'll just proceed as usual then and worry about it if there's an issue. Pretty sure I have those components on hand in a bin somewhere so I should be able to take care of it if the need arises,


----------



## akira749

EK releases GIGABYTE GTX 980 Ti XTREME GAMING Full-Cover water block


----------



## saxovtsmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plant*
> 
> Why not just enter your settings in the bios?


Thanks for the tip.
When I change the settings in the bios, the pump slows down.
=> Pump works perfectly fine.
Sadly when I boot the system the Bios values will be overwritten from the AI suite and the Pump runs again at 100% PWM...
Might be time to de-install the software..


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saxovtsmike*
> 
> Thanks for the tip.
> When I change the settings in the bios, the pump slows down.
> => Pump works perfectly fine.
> Sadly when I boot the system the Bios values will be overwritten from the *AI suite* and the Pump runs again at 100% PWM...
> Might be time to de-install the software..


There is your problem.

TCO


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases GIGABYTE GTX 980 Ti XTREME GAMING Full-Cover water block


Late in the game so probably no, but any plans to do blocks for the 970 and 980 non-Ti?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Late in the game so probably no, but any plans to do blocks for the 970 and 980 non-Ti?


No other 900 series blocks are planned


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No other 900 series blocks are planned


Had a feeling, especially with all the rumours and teasing of the next gen video cards ^_^


----------



## DerComissar

Makes sense making the Gigabyte 980 Ti Extreme Gaming block though, it seems to be an extremely popular card atm.


----------



## DarthBaggins

It's a very popular card from what I've seen working at MC


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> It's a very popular card from what I've seen working at MC


I was ecstatic when Microcenter started expanding their water cooling products especially with EK, but my store in Dallas has crap for stock. Is the stock ordered by corporate or is done by each store? (I think I've mentioned this before and an EK rep said they should all have the same stock).

I was also happy to see Altex carrying EK products until I found out that it was online mostly. I don't need another online water cooling store, I need one I can drive to TODAY and get EVERYTHING I need!


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I was ecstatic when Microcenter started expanding their water cooling products especially with EK, but my store in Dallas has crap for stock. Is the stock ordered by corporate or is done by each store? (I think I've mentioned this before and an EK rep said they should all have the same stock).
> 
> I was also happy to see Altex carrying EK products until I found out that it was online mostly. I don't need another online water cooling store, *I need one I can drive to TODAY and get EVERYTHING I need!*


I've asked Performance PCs to install a drive-thru window numerous times, they just won't listen to me, it's like deaf ears.


----------



## Biggu

After having my Monoblock for my Rampage V for 3 months, I finally got it installed!





Kinda crappy pics but it was late and I only had my IPhone and yes my workstation is a mess!


----------



## iBruce

There's only one simple word to say this morning UNBUNDLED.

EK D5 Serial Dual Top, now sold separately. [without pumps]

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...-pwm-serial_complet_1200_zpsdax3rtcf.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...ual-d5-pwm-serial_1_1200_zpsmardwss0.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...5-pwm-serial_front_800_1_zpsmakm2v9c.jpg.html

The EK Love began to spread over the hemisphere, two cars in every garage, a chicken in every pot, dual pumps in every rig, what a beautiful world we live in.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/giphy 1_zpsqnudkvsm.gif.html


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> There's only one simple word to say this morning UNBUNDLED.
> 
> EK D5 Serial Dual Top, now sold separately. [without pumps]
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...-pwm-serial_complet_1200_zpsdax3rtcf.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...ual-d5-pwm-serial_1_1200_zpsmardwss0.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...5-pwm-serial_front_800_1_zpsmakm2v9c.jpg.html
> 
> The EK Love began to spread over the hemisphere, two cars in every garage, a chicken in every pot, dual pumps in every rig, what a beautiful world we live in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/giphy 1_zpsqnudkvsm.gif.html


Holy Cow that is awsome!

I wonder you put both pumps into it, and a Y splinter to have one CPU Fan header control the speed of both pumps? Is that how you would do it?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> After having my Monoblock for my Rampage V for 3 months, I finally got it installed!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kinda crappy pics but it was late and I only had my IPhone and yes my workstation is a mess!


Diggin the passthroughs and the SMA8!

TCO


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> After having my Monoblock for my Rampage V for 3 months, I finally got it installed!
> 
> 
> 
> Kinda crappy pics but it was late and I only had my IPhone and yes my workstation is a mess!


Looks amazing, I've had my monoblock a few months also, had to paint certain elements of my board white before mounting the block. It's my first monoblock, not sure just what to expect, CPU core temps slightly above that of a Supremacy EVO block, considering the added VRM heat? Or lower than average than a Supremacy EVO block due to the massive amount of copper and coolant surface area to remove the heat more efficiently? I'm hoping the latter scenario wins out.

Someone suggested I paint the M8E block white around the borders, but think it looks very sexy just as EK intended it to be, so leaving it stock with Mayhems Extreme white coolant swirling around within.

Mounting it up this weekend, one last ROG rear I/O cover highlight to move from red to white, when that paint dries, ready for the monoblock.

Gee, it all seems so unbelievable, this build started out so simple.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5468_zpsflpgddzk.jpg.html


----------



## RebelHell

I'm glad you are bringing up monoblocks. I now have a decision to make. Monoblock or CPU block? I understand the monoblock adds cooling for the VRM's and chipset but cannot be reused if I change motherboards in the future. But looking at EK's website the block for my motherboard (Asus Maximus VI Impact) is 20% off! (presumably end of life discount as it is a two year old board) So which would you do?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> There's only one simple word to say this morning UNBUNDLED.
> 
> EK D5 Serial Dual Top, now sold separately. [without pumps]
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...-pwm-serial_complet_1200_zpsdax3rtcf.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...ual-d5-pwm-serial_1_1200_zpsmardwss0.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...5-pwm-serial_front_800_1_zpsmakm2v9c.jpg.html
> 
> The EK Love began to spread over the hemisphere, two cars in every garage, a chicken in every pot, dual pumps in every rig, what a beautiful world we live in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/giphy 1_zpsqnudkvsm.gif.html


Beautiful! Some clever folks there. EK ftw









PS - curious why they retained PWM in the product name... last pump type I want is 2 PWM pumps eating my scarce PWM controllers.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> There's only one simple word to say this morning UNBUNDLED.
> 
> EK D5 Serial Dual Top, now sold separately. [without pumps]
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...-pwm-serial_complet_1200_zpsdax3rtcf.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...ual-d5-pwm-serial_1_1200_zpsmardwss0.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...5-pwm-serial_front_800_1_zpsmakm2v9c.jpg.html
> 
> The EK Love began to spread over the hemisphere, two cars in every garage, a chicken in every pot, dual pumps in every rig, what a beautiful world we live in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/giphy 1_zpsqnudkvsm.gif.html


Great, now you guys can stop whining about it


----------



## Thoth420

What is the best method to test pressure/flow rate in my loop? Also is there a trick to determine if the flow is turbulent and not laminar? Is it possible that I could have pockets of turbulent in a block(s) but still have laminar in the my tubing? If so I would assume this would still be problematic and if so how could I resolve it?
In my understanding the tubing is designed to cause turbulent flow but what happens when they reach the blocks? My understanding of all this is fairly limited but I read this blog https://www.ekwb.com/blog/air-cooling-vs-liquid-cooling/ and it got me curious. Also very informative!









The reason I ask is because I have a very small air pocket stuck in my CPU block and even after tons of tilitng, turning, bending and such it only reduced in size. I cannot seem to get it all the way out. I am thinking gravity + lack of pressure is my problem. Temps all seem ok but I plan on leaving the loop in fire and forget for around a year and thus want to solve any creep up issues before they become a crisis.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> What is the best method to test pressure/flow rate in my loop? Also is there a trick to determine if the flow is laminar and not turbulent? Is it possible that I could have pockets of turbulent in a block(s) but still have laminar in the my tubing? If so I would assume this would still be problematic and if so how could I resolve it?
> In my understanding the tubing is designed to cause laminar flow however in my CPU block(which even after burping the hell out of the loop still has a tiny remnant of my air bubble which is much smaller) which when examined seems to appear to be turbulent. My understanding of all this is fairly limited but I read this blog https://www.ekwb.com/blog/air-cooling-vs-liquid-cooling/ and it got me curious. Also very informative!


Very interesting indeed,

*Laminar flow* is a flow regime characterized by high momentum diffusion and low momentum convection. When a fluid is flowing through a closed channel such as a pipe or between two flat plates, either of two types of flow may occur depending on the velocity and viscosity of the fluid: laminar flow or turbulent flow.

I'm just now getting into this, since this week deciding not to purchase a flow meter and calculating my loops average flow rate on paper instead. Figure the flow meter is only an approximation within error margins anyways, so using the internal volume of my loop, and restrictions of primary components EK monoblock - XRES REVO - both rads - fittings and tubing, I'm trying to calculate my average flow rate at various D5 rotational speeds, and I'm just going to plot a graph, keep it for reference.

Will need to record the length of all soft tubing and hard tubing used while I build my loop, already know the internal diameter, so volume should be a simple calculation, finding the restriction data, someone with great experience at this has already suggested this may be the most difficult element to completing a proper equation.

May have to ask the EK engineers for the restriction data for the XRES and M8E monoblock, the data on the rads is already available.

My loop is short not cooling a GPU, and my case has no room left for another device, so out of necessity decided against a flow meter.

Let us know how you are proceeding with this, very interesting.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> There's only one simple word to say this morning UNBUNDLED.
> 
> EK D5 Serial Dual Top, now sold separately. [without pumps]
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...-pwm-serial_complet_1200_zpsdax3rtcf.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...ual-d5-pwm-serial_1_1200_zpsmardwss0.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...5-pwm-serial_front_800_1_zpsmakm2v9c.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> The EK Love began to spread over the hemisphere, two cars in every garage, a chicken in every pot, dual pumps in every rig, what a beautiful world we live in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/giphy 1_zpsqnudkvsm.gif.html


omg, just when i thought my loop was finally finished







Now i have to figure out how to fit it.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> omg, just when i thought my loop was finally finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now i have to figure out how to fit it.


Yup, I know that feeling, that dual top was love at first sight for me too, but my build is too darn small to fit it.









Been trying for 10days, it has to fit somewhere right? Nope, will look cramped unless I remove a radiator, can't do that. Could hang it from the plexi roof, hahahaha...









Going to save the dual top for another build and go with the original plan using the XRES with this build, the XRES (single top) fits so nicely in the space allotted.

Suddenly all single tops are boring.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5627_zpszhzyutya.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5722_zpshoercvla.jpg.html

Hmmm, come to Pappa.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> omg, just when i thought my loop was finally finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now i have to figure out how to fit it.
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, I know that feeling, that dual top was love at first sight for me too, but my build is too darn small to fit it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been trying for 10days, it has to fit somewhere right? Nope, will look cramped unless I remove a radiator, can't do that. Could hang it from the plexi roof, hahahaha...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to save the dual top for another build and go with the original plan using the XRES with this build, the XRES (single top) fits so nicely in the space allotted.
> 
> Suddenly all single tops are boring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5627_zpszhzyutya.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5722_zpshoercvla.jpg.html
Click to expand...

Could always make a little barrel for the pump and mount it to the front like so...



...and put a EK badge on it. Perfection.









But honestly you could still mount it in that space, just mount it perpendicular to the case or Parallel with the PSU and Radiator. Outlet goes to Radiator Inlet. It would be a tight fit, but a good snake rotary can uncomplicate things in a hurry.









~Ceadder


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Could always make a little barrel for the pump and mount it to the front like so...
> 
> 
> 
> ...and put a EK badge on it. Perfection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But honestly you could still mount it in that space, just mount it perpendicular to the case or Parallel with the PSU and Radiator. Outlet goes to Radiator Inlet. It would be a tight fit, but a good snake rotary can uncomplicate things in a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


LOL, Sup CeadderMan?

Something like this maybe? slightly obstructs the rad airflow, just a little.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Could always make a little barrel for the pump and mount it to the front like so...
> 
> 
> 
> ...and put a EK badge on it. Perfection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But honestly you could still mount it in that space, just mount it perpendicular to the case or Parallel with the PSU and Radiator. Outlet goes to Radiator Inlet. It would be a tight fit, but a good snake rotary can uncomplicate things in a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL, Sup CeadderMan?
> 
> Something like this maybe? slightly obstructs the rad airflow, just a little.
Click to expand...

Yup.









Of course it shows the ugly side of things but it would work in a pinch and get both your pumps into your CLabs build.









You have a little wiggle room handy behind it so you can back it up about 1" of space or whatever is necessary to fit it up cleanly.

~Ceadder


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course it shows the ugly side of things but it would work in a pinch and get both your pumps into your CLabs build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have a little wiggle room handy behind it so you can back it up about 1" of space or whatever is necessary to fit it up cleanly.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Solid side panel right there only view will be from the top window, so not too bad.

Oh man, getting me excited, could you imagine using this part in an S8S? Noooooooo it can't happen!!!

Or can it?









Going out for pizza to mull over this new development.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course it shows the ugly side of things but it would work in a pinch and get both your pumps into your CLabs build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have a little wiggle room handy behind it so you can back it up about 1" of space or whatever is necessary to fit it up cleanly.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Solid side panel right there only view will be from the top window, so not too bad.
> 
> Oh man, getting me excited, could you imagine using this part in an S8S? Noooooooo it can't happen!!!
> 
> Or can it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going out for pizza to mull over this new development.
Click to expand...

Meh, I refuse to take credit for something you probably were halfway leaning toward already.









But glad that it looks to be shaping up.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Very interesting indeed,
> 
> *Laminar flow* is a flow regime characterized by high momentum diffusion and low momentum convection. When a fluid is flowing through a closed channel such as a pipe or between two flat plates, either of two types of flow may occur depending on the velocity and viscosity of the fluid: laminar flow or turbulent flow.
> 
> I'm just now getting into this, since this week deciding not to purchase a flow meter and calculating my loops average flow rate on paper instead. Figure the flow meter is only an approximation within error margins anyways, so using the internal volume of my loop, and restrictions of primary components EK monoblock - XRES REVO - both rads - fittings and tubing, I'm trying to calculate my average flow rate at various D5 rotational speeds, and I'm just going to plot a graph, keep it for reference.
> 
> Will need to record the length of all soft tubing and hard tubing used while I build my loop, already know the internal diameter, so volume should be a simple calculation, finding the restriction data, someone with great experience at this has already suggested this may be the most difficult element to completing a proper equation.
> 
> May have to ask the EK engineers for the restriction data for the XRES and M8E monoblock, the data on the rads is already available.
> 
> My loop is short not cooling a GPU, and my case has no room left for another device, so out of necessity decided against a flow meter.
> 
> Let us know how you are proceeding with this, very interesting.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> What is the best method to test pressure/flow rate in my loop? Also is there a trick to determine if the flow is turbulent and not laminar? Is it possible that I could have pockets of turbulent in a block(s) but still have laminar in the my tubing? If so I would assume this would still be problematic and if so how could I resolve it?
> In my understanding the tubing is designed to cause turbulent flow but what happens when they reach the blocks? My understanding of all this is fairly limited but I read this blog https://www.ekwb.com/blog/air-cooling-vs-liquid-cooling/ and it got me curious. Also very informative!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I ask is because I have a very small air pocket stuck in my CPU block and even after tons of tilitng, turning, bending and such it only reduced in size. I cannot seem to get it all the way out. I am thinking gravity + lack of pressure is my problem. Temps all seem ok but I plan on leaving the loop in fire and forget for around a year and thus want to solve any creep up issues before they become a crisis.


Guys we dont have to make a small loop so complicated. With what we are doing it does not make a big differance!!!??? ??????


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Guys we dont have to make a small loop so complicated. With what we are doing it does not make a big differance!!!??? ??????


While my loop only covers one CPU and GPU it has lots of long vertical hard tubing so while I don't need hard numbers and an approximation is fine for me it does present a good general question for water coolers in general. I had no idea there was a thing called a flow meter so I could do fine with that perhaps but others may benefit from other solutions such as the one iBruce mentioned.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> While my loop only covers one CPU and GPU it has lots of long vertical hard tubing so while I don't need hard numbers and an approximation is fine for me it does present a good general question for water coolers in general. I had no idea there was a thing called a flow meter so I could do fine with that perhaps but others may benefit from other solutions such as the one iBruce mentioned.


All interesting from a intellectual view but dont want people especially noobs to think it is important!! I work on and design systems that get rid of megawatts of heat, now in this instance it all matters, 1 degree of cooling can really make a differance then!!????


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> All interesting from a intellectual view but dont want people especially noobs to think it is important!! I work on and design systems that get rid of megawatts of heat, now in this instance it all matters, 1 degree of cooling can really make a differance then!!????


What is important to someone (regardless of their skill level) is subjective. I also doubt that anyone will read page 1525 of this thread and walk away with a misconception as to the importance of such a question.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> What is important to someone (regardless of their skill level) is subjective. I also doubt that anyone will read page 1525 of this thread and walk away with a misconception as to the importance of such a question.


Sorry i was misunderstood, having enough flow is inportant but knowing exactly how much flow you have is not as inportant. You can just use rule of thumb for this!! If you think flow is low then add pump or watch the temps to decide if flow is too low. I think the figuring of the possible flow is fun but nothing we are going to do us going ti make a large differance as long as you follow the general rule of thumb.. Also the figuring is just the possible flow if everything is perfect, i piece of dirt in a water block can alter the flow no matter how many calculations iis made!!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> There's only one simple word to say this morning UNBUNDLED.
> 
> EK D5 Serial Dual Top, now sold separately. [without pumps]
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...-pwm-serial_complet_1200_zpsdax3rtcf.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...ual-d5-pwm-serial_1_1200_zpsmardwss0.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iB...5-pwm-serial_front_800_1_zpsmakm2v9c.jpg.html
> 
> The EK Love began to spread over the hemisphere, two cars in every garage, a chicken in every pot, dual pumps in every rig, what a beautiful world we live in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/giphy 1_zpsqnudkvsm.gif.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great, now you guys can stop whining about it
Click to expand...

lol!


----------



## Maxxamillion

I ended up putting my dual revo pump into my S8 like this.



http://imgur.com/Bv1JFIL


----------



## Edge0fsanity

thats likely how i'll have to do it. I can slide one of the pumps under the front rad fan but the other pump would be too close for comfort next to the psu. Gonna look ugly though







I might just wait and mount in the lower rad chamber and drill a big hole in the midplate for the res but i think i'd have to get rid of the front i/o to make that work. Or i could switch to a 240 rad to clear up space in there and mount it similar to the other side. But i'd still get ugly pump butt showing through the vent.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maxxamillion*
> 
> I ended up putting my dual revo pump into my S8 like this.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Bv1JFIL


Hmmmm that photo seems quite familiar. Where have I seen it?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> EK Why do you do this to people!!
> 
> 
> 
> Why cant this line up with the GPU blocks?????????????????????????? I can understand it being lower but should not be hard to have the ports line up ?????
> 
> This does not make any sense for this!!!
> 
> @akira749 whyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy???????????????????


Well I think what I did looks ok so no problems EK!!


----------



## Maxxamillion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Hmmmm that photo seems quite familiar. Where have I seen it?


I just took that photo. lol


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maxxamillion*
> 
> I ended up putting my dual revo pump into my S8 like this.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Bv1JFIL


My hat is off to you M8 for the positive effort, but EEEEEEKKKKK would have gone radiator LONG, and crammed parts LESS.

I'm still working from this below and still not sure if it's a good idea.

I mean a water part is only truly beautiful if you can feature it from a few gorgeous angles.

Otherwise its just ,,,, thrown together with the side panel shoved into place.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5750_zpsec61k3bp.jpg.html


----------



## Maxxamillion

I tried all different ways when I use to have a Bitspower dual pump top, but the fittings were in the way. It's still a struggle with the inlet and outlet placements.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maxxamillion*
> 
> I tried all different ways when I use to have a Bitspower dual pump top, but the fittings were in the way. It's still a struggle with the inlet and outlet placements.


You have great taste in parts, amazing parts.









It does seem like a struggle I feel you man, great effort.

I'm doing an inaudible build so have to account for additional space under the EK Dual Top for noise absorption material, as large as they may be? Not sure yet.

Sweet S8, mine is an S8S with top window so ZERO rad support up top, and slightly less functional space to work with than you have.

The Struggle Continues...

Jay uses his all-gunmetal gray Mercury S8 test bench to test the new EK GPU blocks at 4:32 in the video.

That's what I do Jay with my all-gunmetal S8 test bench, testing! Gee, we have so much in common Jay.









Can we be friends Jay?









Jay says he cleaned and cleaned and cleaned his rads, *but he didn't Blitz.*

That's why I Blitzed this time around knowing I was using the Mayhems extreme white, and want no color change over time.






.


----------



## Maxxamillion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> You have great taste in parts, amazing parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It does seem like a struggle I feel you man, great effort.
> 
> I'm doing an inaudible build so have to account for additional space under the EK Dual Top for noise absorption material, as large as they may be? Not sure yet.
> 
> Sweet S8, mine is an S8S with top window so ZERO rad support up top, and slightly less functional space to work with than you have.
> 
> The Struggle Continues...
> 
> Jay uses his all-gunmetal gray Mercury S8 test bench to test the new EK GPU blocks at 4:32 in the video.
> 
> That's what I do Jay with my all-gunmetal S8 test bench, testing! Gee, we have so much in common Jay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can we be friends Jay?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jay says he cleaned and cleaned and cleaned his rads, *but he didn't Blitz.*
> 
> That's why I Blitzed this time around knowing I was using the Mayhems extreme white, and want no color change over time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks, iBruce. I have some Neoprene foam that I cut out laying under it about 1/4 inch thick. I originally had the pump brackets that came with it screwed into the fan mount area but it did cause more vibration than I liked. I have the pumps lying freely now and get no case vibration up to 3300 rpms which I normally run my pumps lower than that. I've never ran a single pump setup so I can't compare. I do have 3 360s and a 240 rad so the thing is packed!


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maxxamillion*
> 
> Thanks, iBruce. I have some Neoprene foam that I cut out laying under it about 1/4 inch thick. *I originally had the pump brackets that came with it screwed into the fan mount area but it did cause more vibration than I liked*. I have the pumps lying freely now and get no case vibration up to 3300 rpms which I normally run my pumps lower than that. I've never ran a single pump setup so I can't compare. I do have 3 360s and a 240 rad so the thing is packed!


Hard mounting is never a good idea, unless you don't care about noise, two D5s hard-mounted even at 25%PWR would be a nightmare.

(3) 360s? and (1) 240? May God Bless You.









I thank you for your gracious input.

What I'm teetering on now is the ability of the Dual D5 Top using two pumps running extremely low, 20%power or 10%power times 2 and become a much improved equivalent for silent enthusiasts like myself, with solid head pressure, instead of running a single D5 at 35%, to improve sonic qualities using Sorbothane-type noise absorption.


----------



## Maxxamillion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Hard mounting is never a good idea, unless you don't care about noise, two D5s hard-mounted even at 25%PWR would be a nightmare.
> 
> (3) 360s? and (1) 240? May God Bless You.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thank you for your gracious input.
> 
> What I'm teetering on now is the ability of the Dual D5 Top using two pumps running extremely low, 20%power or 10%power times 2 and become a much improved equivalent for silent enthusiasts like myself, with solid head pressure, instead of running a single D5 at 35%, to improve sonic qualities using Sorbothane-type noise absorption.


Let me know what you come up with.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maxxamillion*
> 
> Let me know what you come up with.


I need the laboratory of the Great Professor.

(you know who you are)


----------



## iBruce

When the pregnant girl, love of my life who owns my heart goes to sleep at 10pm. I get to stay up late and POST.

(cuz I bought her and the baby a new GLA 250 to ride in, in soft metallic mountain gray)

Only a few days left though, I'm sad about that, but it's what happens when fatherhood approaches.









Goodbye everyone.

...and if I only helped one single person, oh God, it was truly worth it all.

I should have done so much more, I could have done so much more, what is wrong with me? I didn't do enough, this pin, this pin is gold, would have saved ten more people, this wristwatch, five more people, one more person, I didn't apply myself enough, I could have saved so many lives from unwanted pumps and unwanted noise and I didn't, I didn't do enough.














.


----------



## MR-e

Love it Bruce, haha. We'll see you again when you're back


----------



## SteezyTN

I am having the hardest Time unscrewing the black ring that secures the pump to the D5 revo plexi top. I cannot get it unscrewed. Any ideas?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> When the pregnant girl, love of my life who owns my heart goes to sleep at 10pm. I get to stay up late and POST.
> 
> (cuz I bought her and the baby a new GLA 250 to ride in, in soft metallic mountain gray)
> 
> Only a few days left though, I'm sad about that, but it's what happens when fatherhood approaches.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Goodbye everyone.
> 
> ...and if I only helped one single person, oh God, it was truly worth it all.
> 
> I should have done so much more, I could have done so much more, what is wrong with me? I didn't do enough, this pin, this pin is gold, would have saved ten more people, this wristwatch, five more people, one more person, I didn't apply myself enough, I could have saved so many lives from unwanted pumps and unwanted noise and I didn't, I didn't do enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Love it Bruce, haha. We'll see you again when you're back


Bruce life as you know it is going to be gone!!! Something better and worse is coming!!! It will be a big new adventure!!!! It is also so wonderful the first time the kid looks at you and says dad!! Your heart just just i dont know how to explain it!! Then it looks at the dog and says dad and you know you are a father now!!! Being a new father is like being on drugs, you dont sleep, you dont eat, your dirty and paranoid!!! Good luck and wish you the best!!!


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> When the pregnant girl, love of my life who owns my heart goes to sleep at 10pm. I get to stay up late and POST.
> 
> (cuz I bought her and the baby a new GLA 250 to ride in, in soft metallic mountain gray)
> 
> Only a few days left though, I'm sad about that, but it's what happens when fatherhood approaches.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Goodbye everyone.
> 
> ...and if I only helped one single person, oh God, it was truly worth it all.
> 
> I should have done so much more, I could have done so much more, what is wrong with me? I didn't do enough, this pin, this pin is gold, would have saved ten more people, this wristwatch, five more people, one more person, I didn't apply myself enough, I could have saved so many lives from unwanted pumps and unwanted noise and I didn't, I didn't do enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Congrats, Bruce! Just look at it as a countdown until you can build a computer for your little one!









By the way, I'm a living testament to one of those who you've helped immensely!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Congrats Bruce, it's an adventure all of its own, and completely worth it. My lil guy surprises me everyday, and the tell tale he is my son is thanks to his 3rd word he learned (after mom & dad) "Car". so I know I have another gear head in the family, he also loves playing with an old keyboard and mouse I have in a box next to one of the rigs while I post on here when I'm in front of a rig. But we'll keep the lights on for ya when you decide to return.


----------



## Alpina 7

IN...

2 Predator 360's

1 CPU Block that comes with the predator

980Ti WF3 Gaming water block coming soon


----------



## Mega Man

i have to admit i thought i would hate being a dad,

it all changed the first time she reached her little hands up like she wanted me to pick her up,

i cant describe how much i love her.... scary how quick it all changed


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i have to admit i thought i would hate being a dad,
> 
> it all changed the first time she reached her little hands up like she wanted me to pick her up,
> 
> i cant describe how much i love her.... scary how quick it all changed


3 kids later, I am still not sure if I am sold on the idea...

oh well, no turning back now!

On another note...man, I really do love my older CSQ supremacy block and naked kit...running some stress tests now on an older rig, 3570k running 5.0 @1.4ish in OCCT LDS and just barely hitting 50C. Freaking amazing.


----------



## Dave6531

Going to have design a bracket on my cnc machine to combat the gpu sag.


----------



## VSG

This is pretty hot:



EK FC block for the Radeon Pro Duo.


----------



## Sazexa

So I've managed to get everything to fit in my M1. Though, with the case closed up, temperatures are a bit higher than desired. Still good, I believe ~45-50C in games with the GPU and CPU. I've got a few things to try, such as a new top panel to let air vent out of the case. My current one has sound dampening foam blocking the ventillation holes. Also, right now from the side of the case it's set up for my NF-F12's are intake, and pushing air through the radiator and it's pushing all the hot air directly onto the board. So, I may try setting those for exhaust.


----------



## Biggu

Question for you guys, I have a EVGA hydro copper block on my Titan X and ive been running EK Blood Red coolant for about a year, When I drained the system and checked the block the nickel itself looks kinda stained. Is the only way to clean this to take apart the block and scrub or will Mayhems Blitz help? I'm planning on running EK pastel red next time around so its meh but i still want to clean it better than running vinegar through the loop for 24 hours.


----------



## tiborrr12

Don't scrub any nickel plated surface with any Blitz, no vinegar!

Just follow these techniques and these only: https://www.ekwb.com/blog/how-to-clean-water-blocks/


----------



## Benjiw

I'm so upset right now...

I bought a MSI GTX 970 from a forum member here and after some talk we agreed on a price and I even paid him a bit extra for protective postage as this card is 87% ASIC and overclocks really high. It came with the GTX TF5 waterblock too as I'm a watercooling guy too so this looked like a great deal. But just like anything, if it seems to great to be true, it usually is.

I received the card in a very thin cardboard box, with a single sheet of bubble wrap, no antistatic in sight so not entirely sure where the extra money went? To add insult to injury the card PCB was physically damaged and the PCIe lane damaged and the metal bracket you screw into the PCIe slot in the case also bent which then in turn was bending the card. After a few messages I tested the card and it worked so very stupidly on my part I decided to keep it.

Roll on to me today buying a backplate for the card, an EK backplate no less to help straighten the card out due to the damage and the waterblock pulling it down. Everything started off fine, I put on my thermal pads and got ready to undo the screws required to mount the backplate, and then imagine this, you have your screwdriver in hand and the screw won't budge... that screw that's connected to a stand off in nickel plated copper or plexi... Yes, the screws where overtightened to all hell. Carefully I tried with all my mechanical skills from being a motorcycle mechanic way back when and even though the screws came loose I had a gut feeling the screws I needed to use for the backplate where going to uncover a hideous secret that the seller had hidden by cleaning the block himself prior to sending it to me.

The screws lined up, in they went and with absolutely no force, 3 of my standoffs stripped...

So what do I do now? How can I ever fix this issue? I really can't be bothered fighting with the seller for a refund after owning the card for this long either. He's an ex employee of this forum too so I feel well and truly taken for a ride. So after this, I won't be buying used parts I think, I'm thoroughly sick to death of people not knowing how to take care of parts correctly now, it's beyond a joke. If I'd of done the damage I'd probably be mad at myself but I'm being sincere when I say that those screws needed no persuasion in any form.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm so upset right now...
> 
> I bought a MSI GTX 970 from a forum member here and after some talk we agreed on a price and I even paid him a bit extra for protective postage as this card is 87% ASIC and overclocks really high. It came with the GTX TF5 waterblock too as I'm a watercooling guy too so this looked like a great deal. But just like anything, if it seems to great to be true, it usually is.
> 
> I received the card in a very thin cardboard box, with a single sheet of bubble wrap, no antistatic in sight so not entirely sure where the extra money went? To add insult to injury the card PCB was physically damaged and the PCIe lane damaged and the metal bracket you screw into the PCIe slot in the case also bent which then in turn was bending the card. After a few messages I tested the card and it worked so very stupidly on my part I decided to keep it.
> 
> Roll on to me today buying a backplate for the card, an EK backplate no less to help straighten the card out due to the damage and the waterblock pulling it down. Everything started off fine, I put on my thermal pads and got ready to undo the screws required to mount the backplate, and then imagine this, you have your screwdriver in hand and the screw won't budge... that screw that's connected to a stand off in nickel plated copper or plexi... Yes, the screws where overtightened to all hell. Carefully I tried with all my mechanical skills from being a motorcycle mechanic way back when and even though the screws came loose I had a gut feeling the screws I needed to use for the backplate where going to uncover a hideous secret that the seller had hidden by cleaning the block himself prior to sending it to me.
> 
> The screws lined up, in they went and with absolutely no force, 3 of my standoffs stripped...
> 
> So what do I do now? How can I ever fix this issue? I really can't be bothered fighting with the seller for a refund after owning the card for this long either. He's an ex employee of this forum too so I feel well and truly taken for a ride. So after this, I won't be buying used parts I think, I'm thoroughly sick to death of people not knowing how to take care of parts correctly now, it's beyond a joke. If I'd of done the damage I'd probably be mad at myself but I'm being sincere when I say that those screws needed no persuasion in any form.


That's frustrating

You can open a ticket on our website and you will be able to obtain some replacement standoffs.









https://ekwb.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> That's frustrating
> 
> You can open a ticket on our website and you will be able to obtain some replacement standoffs.


I don't think the standoffs are the issue, they're spinning freely on the block they don't screw in or out just spin.


----------



## zerophase

I'm moving the rampage v extreme pch and mosfet block to a replacement board. I'm going to be using Thermal Grizzly on the pch. The applicator feels fairly soft, but I don't know if it's safe to use on the bare pch for spreading tim. Anyone know if the applicator won't scratch the pch?


----------



## Sedici

Still early in the build, and I have no idea what I'm doing, but I got some of the EK stuff test mounted.










Rear routing


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedici*
> 
> Still early in the build, and I have no idea what I'm doing, but I got some of the EK stuff test mounted.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rear routing


That's awesome!


----------



## n64ADL

whats a great liquid cooling starter kit for a case that can house a 480mm radiator. i have the phantek's ethnoo luxe case, this case is designed for liquid cooling.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n64ADL*
> 
> whats a great liquid cooling starter kit for a case that can house a 480mm radiator. i have the phantek's ethnoo luxe case, this case is designed for liquid cooling.


And how exactly are you planning to fit a 480mm rad in an Enthoo Luxe?

The largest radiator that case can fit without modding is a 420mm (3x140mm).


----------



## n64ADL

og m
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> And how exactly are you planning to fit a 480mm rad in an Enthoo Luxe?
> 
> The largest radiator that case can fit without modding is a 420mm (3x140mm).


oh my bad, meant 420.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n64ADL*
> 
> og m
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> And how exactly are you planning to fit a 480mm rad in an Enthoo Luxe?
> 
> The largest radiator that case can fit without modding is a 420mm (3x140mm).
> 
> 
> 
> oh my bad, meant 420.
Click to expand...

Right here:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits

Get a 360 if your doing CPU only and add a 240 rad if your doing GPU too.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Does anyone know if they have a discount code as of now or maybe one coming up ?


----------



## Alpina 7

OFF topic, but you guys are usually always active here and down to help a brother out


















So im frustrated. was messing around on the computer last night downloading some music and somehow i end up with some crazy Trojan virus that screws everything up to the point where i cant even reboot. spent a few hours and finally got windows back up and still issues. decided it was a good time to raid 0 and start fresh. saved all the files that are important to me and started the process.

Ok so i set the 2 SSD's to Raid 0 in my bios and attempted to re-install windows... but im running into a weird message when i try and install windows 10 pro...

it tells me its unable to install on the selected raid 0 drive? ok no problem, i created a partition and same crap. formatted it same crap...

so i figure i need to use the Intel tool so i try CNTRL+i .... Nothing.... CNTRL+v nothing.... i tried different combinations for an hour and couldn't figure it out and its making me frustrated. ive read of people having the same issue on X99 but they can all use the intel raid tool. i cant?

when i change the controller from Raid to ahci and try and install windows it gives me the option no problems... but I WANT RAID...

so im sure someone knows the simple fix to this i just need the help...

also when installing windows and it shows me that message it DOES give me the option to load a driver.. i tried inserting my motherboards driver cd into the computer but it says cant find drivers.... tried intels RSTe driver on a USB and nothing... am i missing something..

thanks for the help guys. TRULY APPRECIATED


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> OFF topic, but you guys are usually always active here and down to help a brother out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So im frustrated. was messing around on the computer last night downloading some music and somehow i end up with some crazy Trojan virus that screws everything up to the point where i cant even reboot. spent a few hours and finally got windows back up and still issues. decided it was a good time to raid 0 and start fresh. saved all the files that are important to me and started the process.
> 
> Ok so i set the 2 SSD's to Raid 0 in my bios and attempted to re-install windows... but im running into a weird message when i try and install windows 10 pro...
> 
> it tells me its unable to install on the selected raid 0 drive? ok no problem, i created a partition and same crap. formatted it same crap...
> 
> so i figure i need to use the Intel tool so i try CNTRL+i .... Nothing.... CNTRL+v nothing.... i tried different combinations for an hour and couldn't figure it out and its making me frustrated. ive read of people having the same issue on X99 but they can all use the intel raid tool. i cant?
> 
> when i change the controller from Raid to ahci and try and install windows it gives me the option no problems... but I WANT RAID...
> 
> so im sure someone knows the simple fix to this i just need the help...
> 
> also when installing windows and it shows me that message it DOES give me the option to load a driver.. i tried inserting my motherboards driver cd into the computer but it says cant find drivers.... tried intels RSTe driver on a USB and nothing... am i missing something..
> 
> thanks for the help guys. TRULY APPRECIATED


Just from a quick read i think you need to first make sure it is set to raid in the bios and then i would open a cmd window and use disk part to clean both disk and return to virgin state!!! This is to make sure disk clean then tou need drivers on usb i think!!


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Just from a quick read i think you need to first make sure it is set to raid in the bios and then i would open a cmd window and use disk part to clean both disk and return to virgin state!!! This is to make sure disk clean then tou need drivers on usb i think!!


i did all of that in command promt.

what exact drivers would i need? motherboard drivers? intel drivers? i just need this issue fixed


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> i did all of that in command promt.
> 
> what exact drivers would i need? motherboard drivers? intel drivers? i just need this issue fixed


I think it is the intel raid drivers but i am on road and at home have notes on this issue or close to it!!! Surprised someone else has not chimed in to help


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I think it is the intel raid drivers but i am on road and at home have notes on this issue or close to it!!! Surprised someone else has not chimed in to help


thanks for your help. i REALLY wish someone would. ive got a non working PC at home and its my off weekend /:


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Just from a quick read i think you need to first make sure it is set to raid in the bios and then i would open a cmd window and use disk part to clean both disk and return to virgin state!!! This is to make sure disk clean then tou need drivers on usb i think!!
> 
> 
> 
> i did all of that in command promt.
> 
> what exact drivers would i need? motherboard drivers? intel drivers? i just need this issue fixed
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> i did all of that in command promt.
> 
> what exact drivers would i need? motherboard drivers? intel drivers? i just need this issue fixed
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is the intel raid drivers but i am on road and at home have notes on this issue or close to it!!! Surprised someone else has not chimed in to help
Click to expand...

When it gives you the option to install a driver, it's probably looking for the old f6-floppy driver . . .

It'll be on your board disk, probably in SATA a few layers down,

You can probably put it on a USB stick . . . Win 10 should load USB 3 drivers from the install media.

Darlene


----------



## Alpina 7

so where do i get those? can you simplify what you just said for me please. i have no idea what all that means... i did try my Cd that came with the mother board and it said cant find associated driver.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> so where do i get those? can you simplify what you just said for me please. i have no idea what all that means... i did try my Cd that came with the mother board and it said cant find associated driver.


I suggest you start a new thread for this problem.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I suggest you start a new thread for this problem.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


i did...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I suggest you start a new thread for this problem.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


It's more useful to help someone in need than point them to an area to ask other people for help... He's already made a thread but with the fact that this site is pretty dead most of the time and it can take up to a week before someone posts in your thread, can you understand the lack of patience?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> so where do i get those? can you simplify what you just said for me please. i have no idea what all that means... i did try my Cd that came with the mother board and it said cant find associated driver.


Sata drivers and usb drivers etc come with the windows install, so if you have a key for windows 10 you can go to microsofts website and download the USB media creation tool which will allow you to get back up and about. If you don't have a 10 key you can get them from key sites but the choice is yours on that. Personally I've bought keys from sites as they're more affordable, if steam sold windows keys I'd just buy them from steam lol.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I think it is the intel raid drivers but i am on road and at home have notes on this issue or close to it!!! Surprised someone else has not chimed in to help
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for your help. i REALLY wish someone would. ive got a non working PC at home and its my off weekend /:
Click to expand...

Sorry I just don't know, I don't do raid :/


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> It's more useful to help someone in need than point them to an area to ask other people for help... He's already made a thread but with the fact that this site is pretty dead most of the time and it can take up to a week before someone posts in your thread, can you understand the lack of patience?


Exactly this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Sata drivers and usb drivers etc come with the windows install, so if you have a key for windows 10 you can go to microsofts website and download the USB media creation tool which will allow you to get back up and about. If you don't have a 10 key you can get them from key sites but the choice is yours on that. Personally I've bought keys from sites as they're more affordable, if steam sold windows keys I'd just buy them from steam lol.


yes i do have a windows 10 pro CD and key.. so what would be the steps for doing this ?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Sorry I just don't know, I don't do raid :/


Bad boy!!!


----------



## Mega Man

Meh raid without a controller (hardware) with battery backup

Imo is like cutting off the roof of your car, because you want a convertible


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I suggest you start a new thread for this problem.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> It's more useful to help someone in need than point them to an area to ask other people for help... He's already made a thread but with the fact that this site is pretty dead most of the time and it can take up to a week before someone posts in your thread, can you understand the lack of patience?
Click to expand...

Actually it's more useful to post in the proper place to get the quickest and most useful answers. And if OCN is dead most of the time then it is more useful to post somewhere else on a completely different site. Most people don't want to help with raid problems in a water cooling manufacturers thread, they want to see water cooling products and problems.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Actually it's more useful to post in the proper place to get the quickest and most useful answers. And if OCN is dead most of the time then it is more useful to post somewhere else on a completely different site. Most people don't want to help with raid problems in a water cooling manufacturers thread, they want to see water cooling products *and problems.*


This user has a problem, I see no issue with helping him regardless of if the subject is watercooling or not, The user has a watercooled PC however with EK parts, so he does fit the bill in terms of being able to post in here.

He has a problem,
He has a watercooled pc,
He has EK products...

Hmmm... Seems like the criteria of helping a fellow human being has been met, although if he had none of those I'd still help because kindness in this world is in sort supply it seems due to rules and obligations.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Exactly this.
> yes i do have a windows 10 pro CD and key.. so what would be the steps for doing this ?


Here you go.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10ISO

Hope this helps, feel free to post the link to your original thread and I'll post it there too, it will help people in the future searching for the same thing, this thread will come up and so will the other one.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Meh raid without a controller (hardware) with battery backup
> 
> Imo is like cutting off the roof of your car, because you want a convertible


But i do have a hardware raid card with a battery is this ok!!!!!????????


----------



## Mega Man

most, dont

anything is ok, it isnt my build, therefore you dont need my approval


----------



## Ceadderman

I would help if I could.

*BUT*

It would have been far more beneficial to simply link his thread to avoid threadjacking an otherwise unrelated thread.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I suggest you start a new thread for this problem.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> It's more useful to help someone in need than point them to an area to ask other people for help... He's already made a thread but with the fact that this site is pretty dead most of the time and it can take up to a week before someone posts in your thread, can you understand the lack of patience?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Actually it's more useful to post in the proper place to get the quickest and most useful answers. And if OCN is dead most of the time then it is more useful to post somewhere else on a completely different site. Most people don't want to help with raid problems in a water cooling manufacturers thread, they want to see water cooling products and problems.
Click to expand...

Agreed 1000%

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Actually it's more useful to post in the proper place to get the quickest and most useful answers. And if OCN is dead most of the time then it is more useful to post somewhere else on a completely different site. Most people don't want to help with raid problems in a water cooling manufacturers thread, they want to see water cooling products *and problems.*
> 
> 
> 
> This user has a problem, I see no issue with helping him regardless of if the subject is watercooling or not, The user has a watercooled PC however with EK parts, so he does fit the bill in terms of being able to post in here.
> 
> He has a problem,
> He has a watercooled pc,
> He has EK products...
> 
> Hmmm... Seems like the criteria of helping a fellow human being has been met, although if he had none of those I'd still help because kindness in this world is in sort supply it seems due to rules and obligations.
Click to expand...

This thread is to show off your EK products and to receive help with your EK products. Once EK makes a RAID card, not a block for the RAID card, then you can ask questions about RAID in here. Until then, let's keep it to EK components and getting help with said EK components.

I'm not alone in this thinking. This happens in a LOT of threads and it's frustrating having to wade through a lot of pointless comments in most cases to get to the interesting/relevant stuff.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Agreed 1000%
> This thread is to show off your EK products and to receive help with your EK products. Once EK makes a RAID card, not a block for the RAID card, then you can ask questions about RAID in here. Until then, let's keep it to EK components and getting help with said EK components.
> 
> I'm not alone in this thinking. This happens in a LOT of threads and it's frustrating having to wade through a lot of pointless comments in most cases to get to the interesting/relevant stuff.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


Yea man seriously you and the other dude can completely just not read or comment on what I have to say or ask if it bothers you... we can talk about what we want, if I choose to ask how to properly flush the toilet while I'm also in discussions about my 1k worth of EK stuff then I can. if I want to mention my kids I can.... if I want to joke around for a few posts about the weather I can. what's it to you? its called a discussion. don't like it.... don't want to "wade" threw it then I suggest you put on your wet suite man because sorry to break it to you but every thread is like this and will be like this









In other news I resolved the issue. ended up going into CSM nd setting every8thng to legacy and then disabled fast boot. I was then able to CNTRL+i and get everything done









thanks so much for the help guys


----------



## rubenlol2

Recently got myself a 360 predator along with a prefilled waterblock for my nano.

My old AIO was dying, temps were going up and I had to open the pump up and fill some purified water in it to keep it going as it had a small leak that let coolant evaporate over time.

Was a bit bummed they didn't supply screws to mount another 3 fans, as my 800D can accept really fat rads in push pull configs, ohwell.
Gotta hand it to them though, EK did a good job with the unit, it is much closer to a ready made custom water cooling kit than a AIO in terms of build quality and performance, nice tubing and I don't notice any pump noise as the earlier version had reports of.
Temps went down but noise considerably so, even when using gallium liquid metal as a TIM on the old TD02 240 radiator the predator beats the snot out of it with ease with normal paste.
Waterblock for my nano seems like a good value as well, nano+waterblock and prefill is still cheaper than a fury x is, and much more slick, the GPU core is only around 5c above the coolant temp under load, and that's with a OC.
The waterblock enabled it to run at 1050mhz @ stock voltage all day without throttling with +50% power target (225w actual power limit for GPU core) so it is essentially running like a Fury X.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Really liking the looks of these black nickel compressions:


----------



## Mega Man

quick the sith kidnapped princess zelda!!! take him down !


----------



## n64ADL

how much better is a 360mm custom loop liquid system vs the EK 360 predator???


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n64ADL*
> 
> how much better is a 360mm custom loop liquid system vs the EK 360 predator???


There's not much difference. The custom loop could perform the same (if you use the same fans and radiator), or worse or better, depending on the radiator you use.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n64ADL*
> 
> how much better is a 360mm custom loop liquid system vs the EK 360 predator???


Maybe a couple degrees better and slightly quieter, but the cost will be higher too.

Here's a loop with slightly better components, roughly €400:


The fully custom one might be worth it if you're planning to expand your loop more, but if you're just going to keep it CPU only or maybe add a GPU block, the Predator 360 is just fine.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> quick the sith kidnapped princess zelda!!! take him down !


And he has mega's Red helmet


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Agreed 1000%
> This thread is to show off your EK products and to receive help with your EK products. Once EK makes a RAID card, not a block for the RAID card, then you can ask questions about RAID in here. Until then, let's keep it to EK components and getting help with said EK components.
> 
> I'm not alone in this thinking. This happens in a LOT of threads and it's frustrating having to wade through a lot of pointless comments in most cases to get to the interesting/relevant stuff.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


People helping other people shouldn't be frustrating, going off topic happens in daily life, asking people for help happens in daily life, this isn't Nazi Germany from the 1940's its a public forum to discuss many things. If this displeases you please flag my comment and an admin will deal with it. Helping someone in need shouldn't have to coincide with it being on topic or not. Your reply is pointless. Good day.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> People helping other people shouldn't be frustrating, going off topic happens in daily life, asking people for help happens in daily life, this isn't Nazi Germany from the 1940's its a public forum to discuss many things. If this displeases you please flag my comment and an admin will deal with it. Helping someone in need shouldn't have to coincide with it being on topic or not. *Your reply is pointless.* Good day.


And yours the same. Get off the subject and move on. It has no bearing what people think in here about a raid card. I don't have problems with a POST and ask in the Ek thread about an ASUS BIOS.

TCO


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> People helping other people shouldn't be frustrating, going off topic happens in daily life, asking people for help happens in daily life, this isn't Nazi Germany from the 1940's its a public forum to discuss many things. If this displeases you please flag my comment and an admin will deal with it. Helping someone in need shouldn't have to coincide with it being on topic or not. *Your reply is pointless.* Good day.
> 
> 
> 
> And yours the same. Get off the subject and move on. It has no bearing what people think in here about a raid card. I don't have problems with a POST and ask in the Ek thread about an ASUS BIOS.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Yes, everyone's opinion has been heard, back to the regularly scheduled EK programming.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> And yours the same. Get off the subject and move on. It has no bearing what people think in here about a raid card. I don't have problems with a POST and ask in the Ek thread about an ASUS BIOS.
> 
> TCO


The subject had ended, the person was helped but people still had their panties in a twist much like yourself with your post against mine. NOW BACK TO THE EK STOCK, NO MORE TALK ABOUT ANYTHING ELSE ONLY EK AND THE THIRD REICH!


----------



## ITAngel

Here is my current build just finish flushing the system and adding EK EKoolant EVO Clear to the build. Sorry for the phone quality pictures but I still have to sleeve the cables and do a few touch up in some areas. Pretty happy with EK stuff, only thing is not EK is the Gentle Typhoon 2150rpm PWM Fans. But eventually I will by some EK fans to run them and do a few testing/comparison between them.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> And yours the same. Get off the subject and move on. It has no bearing what people think in here about a raid card. I don't have problems with a POST and ask in the Ek thread about an ASUS BIOS.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> The subject had ended, the person was helped but people still had their panties in a twist much like yourself with your post against mine. NOW BACK TO THE EK STOCK, NO MORE TALK ABOUT ANYTHING ELSE ONLY EK AND THE THIRD REICH!
Click to expand...

Theres no honor in a parting shot dude...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Theres no honor in a parting shot dude...


Let's get back on topic shall we?

How likely is it that the thread in the block is stripped and how can I repair it as my stand offs are spinning freely? I believe this problem coincides with the rules held in this thread on helping people with EK issues?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Let's get back on topic shall we?
> 
> How likely is it that the thread in the block is stripped and how can I repair it as my stand offs are spinning freely? I believe this problem coincides with the rules held in this thread on helping people with EK issues?


If you can get the stand-offs off the block put some crazy glue in hole and then put stand-offs in .. Never dine this on blocks but has worked for other items!!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Theres no honor in a parting shot dude...
> 
> 
> 
> Let's get back on topic shall we?
> 
> How likely is it that the thread in the block is stripped and how can I repair it as my stand offs are spinning freely? I believe this problem coincides with the rules held in this thread on helping people with EK issues?
Click to expand...

I do remember reading your delimma and it does suck. I think the only choices you have are retapping the hole to the same thread size, retapping the hole to a slightly bigger thread size, or using some serious red loctight on the screws.


----------



## Alpina 7

sorry for getting you guys off topic.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> sorry for getting you guys off topic.


Just glad you got it going!!!


----------



## BrjSan

Hey folks hope some one can help me in here

Can i use this Oring

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-black-o-ring-for-multi-link-od-16mm-adapter-10pcs-black.html#Questions-Answers

With this EK fitting from the tube side

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-hdc-fitting-16mm-g1-4-nickel.html

peace


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> sorry for getting you guys off topic.


Apology accepted. I glad to hear you got it going. Next time include a link to the thread you created for the problem. It look proper this way because you're inviting people to your thread. When posting in the weekend, you likely get slow/less/no response.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> sorry for getting you guys off topic.


It's fine, Just been waiting on an opportunity to toss something at Benji.









TCO


----------



## Biggu

Crappy Pictures but I finally got the build completed late last night. Built my own cables and probably wont do that again!!



I love the look of that Monoblock!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> Crappy Pictures but I finally got the build completed late last night. Built my own cables and probably wont do that again!!
> 
> 
> 
> I love the look of that Monoblock!


WOW so good looking i am jelly


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> It's fine, Just been waiting on an opportunity to toss something at Benji.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Aww I love you too TCO, in fact you're one of my favourite posters on here, shame that you love picking on me though... Care to get back on topic and help me with my issue?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Aww I love you too TCO, in fact you're one of my favourite posters on here, shame that you love picking on me though... Care to get back on topic and help me with my issue?


Does it to a bunch of people


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Does it to a bunch of people


Haha, I'm not bothered either way, I find it funny.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> How likely is it that the thread in the block is stripped and how can I repair it as my stand offs are spinning freely?


I had one standoff actually snap its thread even though I was fairly gentle with screwing in the screws. I initially thought the standoff was stripped internally but its own male threaded section that screws into the block itself failed.

In this case I secured the standoff to the block using a strong metal loaded epoxy called JB Weld. It worked very well in securing the standoff.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> I had one standoff actually snap its thread even though I was fairly gentle with screwing in the screws. I initially thought the standoff was stripped internally but its own male threaded section that screws into the block itself failed.
> 
> In this case I secured the standoff to the block using a strong metal loaded epoxy called JB Weld. It worked very well in securing the standoff.


I was thinking about using JB weld, motorcyclists like to use it to bodge their bikes back together and made my life harder as a mechanic, but seeing as this is an EOL block getting a replacement will be hard, for now I'll leave it be but when I get some JB weld to repair my monsta 360 rad that was damaged in the post I'll probably drill out the screw heads to lift off the backplate and remove the block from the card. I've cooled down and looked at the issue with fresh eyes and the card is a pretty good performer so yeah, might as well just repair it and keep it. If I try and sell it as soon as I mention damage the price will plummet even though it's a golden card and the damage won't matter.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> WOW so good looking i am jelly


Told you the EK Mono looked good on the RVE mobo's lol. Partially why I'm selling off my Bitpower Floor Tile monoblock and the other part is I can't seem to find a way to just swap from my acetal/black acrylic top to a clear acrylic or even clear red


----------



## mrgnex

My Supremacy MX doesn't mount well.. The thumbscrews go in at an angle and the mount is aweful. The screw seems to be bent.. I tried to reflatten it but it still won't screw in right. Anyone know a solution?


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> My Supremacy MX doesn't mount well.. The thumbscrews go in at an angle and the mount is aweful. The screw seems to be bent.. I tried to reflatten it but it still won't screw in right. Anyone know a solution?


Take some pictures of what you're trying to say, I am happy to help, but no idea what your problem is


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> My Supremacy MX doesn't mount well.. The thumbscrews go in at an angle and the mount is aweful. The screw seems to be bent.. I tried to reflatten it but it still won't screw in right. Anyone know a solution?


How old is it. I would put a ticket in with EK, I'm sure they would just send you new thumbscrews.


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Take some pictures of what you're trying to say, I am happy to help, but no idea what your problem is


Will do when I am home.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> How old is it. I would put a ticket in with EK, I'm sure they would just send you new thumbscrews.


Yeah I think that would be a option. Ill keep it as backup as an RMA process takes soms time. Thanks


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Hey folks hope some one can help me in here
> 
> Can i use this Oring
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-black-o-ring-for-multi-link-od-16mm-adapter-10pcs-black.html#Questions-Answers
> 
> With this EK fitting from the tube side
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-hdc-fitting-16mm-g1-4-nickel.html
> 
> peace


If you have 16mm tubing then the ID on the O-Ring should be OK, but it's the thickness that may be an issue.

I see two options that should be foolproof:
1. buy a replacement fitting
2. contact EK support and see if you can buy replacement HDC fitting O-Rings direct from them.


----------



## Biggu

Finally got some decent shots last night of the case.. I need to change the LED bars around as the one on the front of the case doesn't seem to be at the right angle.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> Finally got some decent shots last night of the case.. I need to change the LED bars around as the one on the front of the case doesn't seem to be at the right angle.


Damn that looks sexy!


----------



## DarthBaggins

my current debate is if I should go EK mono if BitsPower will not allow me to purchase a clear ROG top (so far they have stated the clear is out of stock at this time)

Another option was to use a Supremacy EVO Plexi/Nickel and use my current BitsPower MB blocks or go w/ separate EK to replace them.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> Finally got some decent shots last night of the case.. I need to change the LED bars around as the one on the front of the case doesn't seem to be at the right angle.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sick! Very nice.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> my current debate is if I should go EK mono if BitsPower will not allow me to purchase a clear ROG top (so far they have stated the clear is out of stock at this time)
> 
> Another option was to use a Supremacy EVO Plexi/Nickel and use my current BitsPower MB blocks or go w/ separate EK to replace them.


Separate EK to replace them... but thats what I like.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> my current debate is if I should go EK mono if BitsPower will not allow me to purchase a clear ROG top (*so far they have stated the clear is out of stock at this time*)
> 
> Another option was to use a Supremacy EVO Plexi/Nickel and use my current BitsPower MB blocks or go w/ separate EK to replace them.


Bitspower or your local vendor says they are out of stock?


----------



## DarthBaggins

BitsPower TW says they are, can't find the ROG clear stateside, still think ill go ahead and go Supremacy Evo and separate blocks on the mobo vs a mono (even though the EK R5E mono looks sessi)


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> My Supremacy MX doesn't mount well.. The thumbscrews go in at an angle and the mount is aweful. The screw seems to be bent.. I tried to reflatten it but it still won't screw in right. Anyone know a solution?


Yes open a ticket with EK they'll replace them.


----------



## MikeTheTiger

I had a question about EKWB compression fittings for hard tubing. I have been using Monsoon's 16mm hardline tubing and fittings for quite a while. On my next build I'm switching to EK's hardline fittings. I'm thinking of going with the 12mm fittings, however monsoon's version (I use their bending tools) is 13mm, I believe. Anyone have experience using this combination? Or can anyone recommend what would be better to use (something with a good selection of colors) with the EK fittings?


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> I had a question about EKWB compression fittings for hard tubing. I have been using Monsoon's 16mm hardline tubing and fittings for quite a while. On my next build I'm switching to EK's hardline fittings. I'm thinking of going with the 12mm fittings, however monsoon's version (I use their bending tools) is 13mm, I believe. Anyone have experience using this combination? Or can anyone recommend what would be better to use (something with a good selection of colors) with the EK fittings?


Why dont you stick with 16mm tube and get 16mm EKWB fittings?


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Why dont you stick with 16mm tube and get 16mm EKWB fittings?


I may have to. I will be rebuilding in my Compact Splash and wanted a little more room to maneuver.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> I had a question about EKWB compression fittings for hard tubing. I have been using Monsoon's 16mm hardline tubing and fittings for quite a while. On my next build I'm switching to EK's hardline fittings. I'm thinking of going with the 12mm fittings, however monsoon's version (I use their bending tools) is 13mm, I believe. Anyone have experience using this combination? Or can anyone recommend what would be better to use (something with a good selection of colors) with the EK fittings?


i use bitspower 10/12mm crystal link tube with the 13mm monsoon mandrels. It works fantastic. You sometimes need to use some blue painters tape to hold things perfectly into place when bending on 3 planes but other than that i just use as normal. If you're buying the miter box you'll need to use a bit more painters tape than you would with their 13mm tube but it also works very well


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> i use bitspower 10/12mm crystal link tube with the 13mm monsoon mandrels. It works fantastic. You sometimes need to use some blue painters tape to hold things perfectly into place when bending on 3 planes but other than that i just use as normal. If you're buying the miter box you'll need to use a bit more painters tape than you would with their 13mm tube but it also works very well


Thanks for the reply. I don't have a problem with the tools to bend. My question was more or less about the monsoon tubing and EK fitting compatibility.


----------



## MedRed

Can anyone get in contact with derickwm? He has a waterblock for sale I'd like to buy, but he's been offline for 6 days.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I don't have a problem with the tools to bend. My question was more or less about the monsoon tubing and EK fitting compatibility.


oh gotcha. I shouldn't reply to things so early in the morning before i've had my coffee.









Personally i wouldn't even attempt using those fittings with that tube. It'll just end with damaged orings, leaks, and frustration.


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> oh gotcha. I shouldn't reply to things so early in the morning before i've had my coffee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally i wouldn't even attempt using those fittings with that tube. It'll just end with damaged orings, leaks, and frustration.


That's what I figured.


----------



## Biggu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Damn that looks sexy!


Thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Sick! Very nice.


Thanks!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> I had a question about EKWB compression fittings for hard tubing. I have been using Monsoon's 16mm hardline tubing and fittings for quite a while. On my next build I'm switching to EK's hardline fittings. I'm thinking of going with the 12mm fittings, however monsoon's version (I use their bending tools) is 13mm, I believe. Anyone have experience using this combination? Or can anyone recommend what would be better to use (something with a good selection of colors) with the EK fittings?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I don't have a problem with the tools to bend. My question was more or less about the monsoon tubing and EK fitting compatibility.


Hi,

Like the other have already said, you can easily bend 12mm tubes with the Monsoon kit. That's the kit I use and never had a problem.

As for fitting Monsoon tubing tubing into our fittings, that might not work. I never tried it but the standard 12mm tubes from EK, Bitspower and E22 are already fitting very snug in the fitting so the added 1mm might become an issue.


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Like the other have already said, you can easily bend 12mm tubes with the Monsoon kit. That's the kit I use and never had a problem.
> 
> As for fitting Monsoon tubing tubing into our fittings, that might not work. I never tried it but the standard 12mm tubes from EK, Bitspower and E22 are already fitting very snug in the fitting so the added 1mm might become an issue.


Thanks for the input. I'll have a look at that tubing to see what will go with my build.


----------



## hidethecookies

EK is awesome!! I Had a clicking/tapping type sound in one of the 6 140mm FF4 Furious Vardars I bought. They sent me a new one right away without any hassle and didn't even need to send the old one in! I didn't have to waste money shipping a defective product internationally. There's not to many companies like that anymore. I'll always recommend them for any water cooling products.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Gotta love clearance section at work, snagged this guy for a steal of a deal (plan on buying the other 2 also since they're at a killer steal of a price too)
Do have to say the quality of this backplate is top shelf


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Gotta love clearance section at work, snagged this guy for a steal of a deal (plan on buying the other 2 also since they're at a killer steal of a price too)
> Do have to say the quality of this backplate is top shelf


My card had massive coil whine with a nickel back plate on my Titan x. Came off an hour later for the regular black ek one. Sounded like a swarm of bees in my case! Now I'm out $50 as it's just sitting on my shelf.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Could always mount it on the wall or frame it lol


----------



## RebelHell

I'm in the process of buying parts for my first custom water loop. So far I have an EK full card block for my 780 ti, an EK monoblock for my Asus M6I, and an EK D5 pump with res. I've decided on a PE 240 and SE 240 rads (the slim because it will block less of the view in my case) but have yet to order those. And at the moment I'm leaning towards rigid tubing for the build. So my question is this, what fittings and tubing would you recommend? I'm probably going to buy the Monsoon mandrel kit as I'm not confident I can free bend accurately. And I've been eyeing the primochill fittings and petg tubing. Is there anything you would recommend instead? Is this a good choice?


----------



## rafaellau

Hello there! This is my first post and first watercooled PC build, a little bit simple compared to most of the awesome builds I have seen in this post. All the components are from EKWB except for that 90 rotary fitting in the terminal, I was really scared at the beginning to do this project, but after reading tons and tons of post and videos it made it more bearable, plus EK products are so easy to work with! Don't look too much at the red cable mess







, black, gray and purple Mainframe Customs cables are on the way!!! Hope you like it!


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rafaellau*
> 
> Hello there! This is my first post and first watercooled PC build, a little bit simple compared to most of the awesome builds I have seen in this post. All the components are from EKWB except for that 90 rotary fitting in the terminal, I was really scared at the beginning to do this project, but after reading tons and tons of post and videos it made it more bearable, plus EK products are so easy to work with! Don't look too much at the red cable mess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , black, gray and purple Mainframe Customs cables are on the way!!! Hope you like it!


Oh thats nice! is that UV reactive Fluid?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> I had a question about EKWB compression fittings for hard tubing. I have been using Monsoon's 16mm hardline tubing and fittings for quite a while. On my next build I'm switching to EK's hardline fittings. I'm thinking of going with the 12mm fittings, however monsoon's version (I use their bending tools) is 13mm, I believe. Anyone have experience using this combination? Or can anyone recommend what would be better to use (something with a good selection of colors) with the EK fittings?


Monsoon's tubing and fittings, as well as Primochill's, are imperial-sized. They will not work with metric sized parts. Mixing metric and imperial parts is asking for trouble.
EDIT: as other have pointed out, Monsoon bending and cutting tools do work perfectly with both 12mm and 16mm tubing


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rafaellau*
> 
> Hello there! This is my first post and first watercooled PC build, a little bit simple compared to most of the awesome builds I have seen in this post. All the components are from EKWB except for that 90 rotary fitting in the terminal, I was really scared at the beginning to do this project, but after reading tons and tons of post and videos it made it more bearable, plus EK products are so easy to work with! Don't look too much at the red cable mess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , black, gray and purple Mainframe Customs cables are on the way!!! Hope you like it!


Very nice bends, congratulations!


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Monsoon's tubing and fittings, as well as Primochill's, are imperial-sized. They will not work with metric sized parts. Mixing metric and imperial parts is asking for trouble.
> EDIT: as other have pointed out, Monsoon bending and cutting tools do work perfectly with both 12mm and 16mm tubing


I assumed I would use Primochill 1/2" (13mm?) tubing with Primochill fittings... Or are you saying the G1/4 Primochill won't fit EK blocks?


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rafaellau*
> 
> Hello there! This is my first post and first watercooled PC build, a little bit simple compared to most of the awesome builds I have seen in this post. All the components are from EKWB except for that 90 rotary fitting in the terminal, I was really scared at the beginning to do this project, but after reading tons and tons of post and videos it made it more bearable, plus EK products are so easy to work with! Don't look too much at the red cable mess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , black, gray and purple Mainframe Customs cables are on the way!!! Hope you like it!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is awesome! I hope I'm as successful as you when I get the rest of the parts for my build.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Monsoon's tubing and fittings, as well as Primochill's, are imperial-sized. They will not work with metric sized parts. Mixing metric and imperial parts is asking for trouble.
> EDIT: as other have pointed out, Monsoon bending and cutting tools do work perfectly with both 12mm and 16mm tubing
> 
> 
> 
> I assumed I would use Primochill 1/2" (13mm?) tubing with Primochill fittings... Or are you saying the G1/4 Primochill won't fit EK blocks?
Click to expand...

No, I'm not saying that. G1/4" is G1/4" regardless of measuring system. But 13mm is NOT 1/2". 0.5" equals 12.7 mm. That nominal 0.3mm difference is enough to prevent a good seal, and if you take into account variances in actual tubing size from manufacturing tolerances, the actual difference may end up being even larger.
EDIT: Of course, using Primochill fittings on Primochill tubing of the same size is probably a good bet in terms of compatibility!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Gotta love discounts, snagged a liter of Ekoolant for a steal of a price since I'm going to be changing out my X1 Mayhems BloodRed coolant soon


----------



## Benjiw

Hey guys recently did this mod:



No more THUMB-ling around with a screw driver bit!









How I did it can be found here or in my Sig.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Why Under the cooling configurator for EK's website on an EVGA 980ti ( 4995 Model Code) are there two cards, one that a waterblock, and backplate fit and the other Saying PCB or something at the end of it, Nothing works (No Blocks or Plates)

TCO


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Why Under the cooling configurator for EK's website on an EVGA 980ti ( 4995 Model Code) are there two cards, one that a waterblock, and backplate fit and the other Saying PCB or something at the end of it, Nothing works (No Blocks or Plates)
> 
> TCO


It would appear that two different revisions were released. One has an Nvidia logo silkscreened just above the PCIE connector, the other has EVGA and some bar codes. The EVGA is not compatible. Probably due to some slight variances on the board. So just look above the PCIE edge connector on your board. If it says Nvidia you're golden, EVGA...not so much?


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Monsoon's tubing and fittings, as well as Primochill's, are imperial-sized. They will not work with metric sized parts. Mixing metric and imperial parts is asking for trouble.
> EDIT: as other have pointed out, Monsoon bending and cutting tools do work perfectly with both 12mm and 16mm tubing


Right now I'm leaning towards the Bitspower 12mm tubing with EK's 12mm fittings. I already have the bending tools.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Started a Build Log, Join up if you Dare









Ze Popped Cherry

TCO


----------



## rafaellau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Oh thats nice! is that UV reactive Fluid?


Thanks Alpina!!!! Is Mayhem's Ice White Pastel with non stain dyes, I think the led made it look like UV reactive tho!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Very nice bends, congratulations!


Thanks! It was really hard at the beginning and wasted some PETG tubes, there is one bend I need to do again on the CPU block because it looks kinda weird...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> That is awesome! I hope I'm as successful as you when I get the rest of the parts for my build.


Thanks, for sure!


----------



## johnd0e

just want to bring this out in the open as i havent seen this issue arise yet(havent been looking really). but for the past couple months ive been struggleing with what i thought was a dieing DDC on my predator 240, but today my fans started to become sparatic and jump up and down in RPM. now im not sure if it is because of my setup but it appears that the controller that is part of the predator has become faulty.

how i had it set up was 2 fans and pump running off the controller, then my phanteks pwm hub hooked up to the 3rd fan pins and had two more fans hooked up to my pwm hub. not sure if somehow i overloaded the predator's controller but even with just two fans plugged in its sparatic, i have since hooked all fans to my pwm hub wich is running off the mobo's cpu fan pwm, and my pump is running straight from the mobo sys fan pwm. everything works fine now, so it appears the predators controller is dieing.

just posting this to bring it out in the public so people know. not bashing the product, as it is a great AIO cooler, it could quite possibly be my own doing that killed the controller.


----------



## SteezyTN

Any news when PPCS will get the new D5 PWM G2 pump? I'm really interest in getting two of those with the dual pump top so I can ultimately get great flow while running the pumps at a low RPM. That would make 4 pumps total in my rig lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Any news when PPCS will get the new D5 PWM G2 pump? I'm really interest in getting two of those with the dual pump top so I can ultimately get great flow while running the pumps at a low RPM. That would make 4 pumps total in my rig lol.


Drop em a line. In my experience, if you ask and they can get it they will accommodate the request.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Drop em a line. In my experience, if you ask and they can get it they will accommodate the request.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah I just emailed them. If I can't, I may just get the Swiftech PWM D5. I don't have any problems with those ones controlling PWM with my corsair link.

I feel like I'm going way overkill with 4 pumps, but I want my PC to be 100% quiet lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Drop em a line. In my experience, if you ask and they can get it they will accommodate the request.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I just emailed them. If I can't, I may just get the Swiftech PWM D5. I don't have any problems with those ones controlling PWM with my corsair link.
> 
> I feel like I'm going way overkill with 4 pumps, but I want my PC to be 100% quiet lol
Click to expand...

That's a pretty spendy way to get a quiet system.

But who am I to judge... I just got a machinist to start work machining my Swiftech 6870 FC Heatsinks. Pretty spendy for an old card but since I cannot get Full Cover EK blocks atm. I really am no fan of stick on heatsinks. They look so ugly and you cannot mount a small fan on them to cool the VRM unless you ghetto mod the card with zips. Since this is for my Mod I can handle it.









Still bro, if you spent a small amount on Shoggy Sandwiches, it would save you quite a bit on pumps. You might need 2 max imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's a pretty spendy way to get a quiet system.
> 
> But who am I to judge... I just got a machinist to start work machining my Swiftech 6870 FC Heatsinks. Pretty spendy for an old card but since I cannot get Full Cover EK blocks atm. I really am no fan of stick on heatsinks. They look so ugly and you cannot mount a small fan on them to cool the VRM unless you ghetto mod the card with zips. Since this is for my Mod I can handle it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still bro, if you spent a small amount on Shoggy Sandwiches, it would save you quite a bit on pumps. You might need 2 max imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well this isn't permanent or a "fully decided" idea. Just trying to open my options. The two I have now only get 0.89GPM at max. But to keep them quiet, I run them at 3000RPM. However, I only get 0.44GPM.

It's either getting the two pumps, OR CHANGE out my black ice nemesis GTS560 and getting a GTX560 or SR2560. The GTS is too restrictive. I really don't want to spend money on more pumps, but it's been diving me crazy lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

What are your load and ambient temps? You might be overthinking things. I have a black ice stealth which isn't all that restrictive. Of course it's not an apples to apples comparison, but if you have good temps I wouldn't sweat the small ish. You have any 90* fittings directly installed at the outlet ports? If so I would rethink the setup of your pumps. Hard 90*s aren't good for flow. In fact they limit it right off and with further restrictions along the way alter your overall performance. Just some things to look for.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What are your load and ambient temps? You might be overthinking things. I have a black ice stealth which isn't all that restrictive. Of course it's not an apples to apples comparison, but if you have good temps I wouldn't sweat the small ish. You have any 90* fittings directly installed at the outlet ports? If so I would rethink the setup of your pumps. Hard 90*s aren't good for flow. In fact they limit it right off and with further restrictions along the way alter your overall performance. Just some things to look for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I can't test for temps now because my fan controller started smoking. I currently only have fans on the 560. I have a total of 13 90 degree fittings, and each in and out port on the pumps have a 90 degree fitting. However, I have pump/res combos, so it's not directly feeding the pump.



I've decided to hold off on the extra pumps for now. That was just like a backup plan. Before I do anything regarding pumps, I'll most likely swap my 560 GTS out with an SR2 or GTX.


----------



## Enapace

I've had excellent support and feedback from EK I wasn't sure what parts to get for my first custom loop and received good response times from them much appreciated. Originally I was referred to the P360 and then they helped me expand the parts for a drain seperate radiator and additional fittings. Has made the process much easier.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What are your load and ambient temps? You might be overthinking things. I have a black ice stealth which isn't all that restrictive. Of course it's not an apples to apples comparison, but if you have good temps I wouldn't sweat the small ish. You have any 90* fittings directly installed at the outlet ports? If so I would rethink the setup of your pumps. Hard 90*s aren't good for flow. In fact they limit it right off and with further restrictions along the way alter your overall performance. Just some things to look for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't test for temps now because my fan controller started smoking. I currently only have fans on the 560. I have a total of 13 90 degree fittings, and each in and out port on the pumps have a 90 degree fitting. However, I have pump/res combos, so it's not directly feeding the pump.
> 
> 
> 
> I've decided to hold off on the extra pumps for now. That was just like a backup plan. Before I do anything regarding pumps, I'll most likely swap my 560 GTS out with an SR2 or GTX.
Click to expand...

Yeah, if you're worried about flow rate, those 90* fittings on the pump tops are likely where your flow rate is tanking right off the bat. And seeing all those 90* fittings of what I can see, aren't helping tbh. Your Radiator is the least of your concerns imho. Cause blocks are restrictive, but you can't have a watercooling system without blocks. Your Radiator restriction is less than your block restrictions, but your pumps are being limited by those 90s the worst. If you didn't have that plate drilled out for passthroughs my advice would be to go with Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Dual Rotary 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter fittings. They're slightly longer off the ports but they are essentially two 45* fittings end to end. 45* fittings don't add near the restrictiveness that 90* fittings do, so they're nominal for restrictiveness.

You can get them in pretty much every color BP offers and since they're rotary you can put them in some of the more difficult to route spaces in your system.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah, if you're worried about flow rate, those 90* fittings on the pump tops are likely where your flow rate is tanking right off the bat. And seeing all those 90* fittings of what I can see, aren't helping tbh. Your Radiator is the least of your concerns imho. Cause blocks are restrictive, but you can't have a watercooling system without blocks. Your Radiator restriction is less than your block restrictions, but your pumps are being limited by those 90s the worst. If you didn't have that plate drilled out for passthroughs my advice would be to go with Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Dual Rotary 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter fittings. They're slightly longer off the ports but they are essentially two 45* fittings end to end. 45* fittings don't add near the restrictiveness that 90* fittings do, so they're nominal for restrictiveness.
> 
> You can get them in pretty much every color BP offers and since they're rotary you can put them in some of the more difficult to route spaces in your system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Turns out it isn't the radiators. I just rerouted the tubing to bypass the 560, and my flow was only 0.2GPM faster.

When I do some maintanance, I'll try and get rid of some of the 90's. I just don't know how I'd route the tubing though.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah, if you're worried about flow rate, those 90* fittings on the pump tops are likely where your flow rate is tanking right off the bat. And seeing all those 90* fittings of what I can see, aren't helping tbh. Your Radiator is the least of your concerns imho. Cause blocks are restrictive, but you can't have a watercooling system without blocks. Your Radiator restriction is less than your block restrictions, but your pumps are being limited by those 90s the worst. If you didn't have that plate drilled out for passthroughs my advice would be to go with Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Dual Rotary 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter fittings. They're slightly longer off the ports but they are essentially two 45* fittings end to end. 45* fittings don't add near the restrictiveness that 90* fittings do, so they're nominal for restrictiveness.
> 
> You can get them in pretty much every color BP offers and since they're rotary you can put them in some of the more difficult to route spaces in your system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I am not very experienced in water cooling but I think it's not all true. I've read about using elbow fittings some time ago and few ppl did some calculations that they don't restrict so much. Cpu and gpu blocks are the nost restrictive, also FLOW METERS, having one of them in the loop is like few elbow fittings.
This is an old post i've found, I don't know how much is that true and how much of this theory works in real life scenario but definitely interesting thing to read and think about:

QUOTE

"*I figured it would take about 5 mins to do some back-of-the envelope calculations to give you an idea of what penalty you'll pay for using 90 degree elbows in your pipes. Here it is:

Pump: Swiftech MCP355
120 GPH
20.2 ft. head pressure
3/8" tubing

First, I'm going to assume that the flow rate is actually 120 GPH. This represents the worst-case scenario because head loss in a 90 degree elbow is highest for the greatest flow rate. Your actual head loss will be less since the flow rate will be somewhat lower than 120 GPH. Onwards...

Flowrate, Q = 120 GPH = ... = 7.7 [cu.in/s]
Pipe area, A = 1/4*pi*D^2 = 0.1104 [in^2]
Nominal flow speed, V = Q/A = 5.8 [ft/s]

Dynamic pressure = 1/2*rho*V^2 = 0.5*1.938[slug/ft^3]*(5.8[ft/s])^2
Pd = 32.6 lb/ft^2.

The loss from one 90 degree bend is approximately 0.5*Pd, so the head los PER bend is going to be about 16.3 [lb/ft^2], or 0.26 ft of head. This means that for each 90 degree bend, you can expect to lose only about 1% of flow.

This is the first-order approximation. Nonlinear factors will mean diminishing penalties as your flow rate is reduced, but then you do want to keep a certain flow rate, so if you use more 90 degree bends, you'll eventually want to get a stronger pump.

Conclusion: You'll be just fine putting in a few 90 degree joints in your pipe. It might actually be beneficial to put one of these bends just upstream of the CPU or GPU waterblock, as the increased turbulence is beneficial to heat transfer.

Cheers

PS: For a little comparison, the Swiftech Storm waterblock is rated for a 6 psi pressure drop at the 120 GPH flow rate. This is equal to 13.8 ft of head, or 53 90 degree joints.*"

END OF QUOTE


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Turns out it isn't the radiators. I just *rerouted the tubing to bypass the 560*, and my flow was only 0.2GPM faster.
> 
> When I do some maintanance, I'll try and get rid of some of the 90's. *I just don't know how I'd route the tubing though*.


Smart. I hadn't even thought of that.

2nd Bold.

Might have to drill some more holes









TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Smart. I hadn't even thought of that.
> 
> 2nd Bold.
> 
> Might have to drill some more holes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Might have to get a dang new midplate lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah, if you're worried about flow rate, those 90* fittings on the pump tops are likely where your flow rate is tanking right off the bat. And seeing all those 90* fittings of what I can see, aren't helping tbh. Your Radiator is the least of your concerns imho. Cause blocks are restrictive, but you can't have a watercooling system without blocks. Your Radiator restriction is less than your block restrictions, but your pumps are being limited by those 90s the worst. If you didn't have that plate drilled out for passthroughs my advice would be to go with Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Dual Rotary 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter fittings. They're slightly longer off the ports but they are essentially two 45* fittings end to end. 45* fittings don't add near the restrictiveness that 90* fittings do, so they're nominal for restrictiveness.
> 
> You can get them in pretty much every color BP offers and since they're rotary you can put them in some of the more difficult to route spaces in your system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I really want the best flow I can get to keep those dang pumps on low. So I may consider buying some later on. Idk, I'm just worried of spending $16 times 4fittings lol.

Also, you won't believe my stupidity (actually, you may believe it







lol) Last week when I was changing the thermal paste on my Raystorm, I was in such a hurry and I put it on upside down. So now I have the "out" on my pump to the "out" on the CPU block. I'm moving in a couple weeks, so when I take the fluid out for transportation, I'll swap the block back. I assume the block would make flow a tiny bit better


----------



## Ceadderman

^Actually, I think you may have found your biggest problem. A backward top can cut your flow more than you may imagine. So much so that your flowrate looks sluggish.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah, if you're worried about flow rate, those 90* fittings on the pump tops are likely where your flow rate is tanking right off the bat. And seeing all those 90* fittings of what I can see, aren't helping tbh. Your Radiator is the least of your concerns imho. Cause blocks are restrictive, but you can't have a watercooling system without blocks. Your Radiator restriction is less than your block restrictions, but your pumps are being limited by those 90s the worst. If you didn't have that plate drilled out for passthroughs my advice would be to go with Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Dual Rotary 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter fittings. They're slightly longer off the ports but they are essentially two 45* fittings end to end. 45* fittings don't add near the restrictiveness that 90* fittings do, so they're nominal for restrictiveness.
> 
> You can get them in pretty much every color BP offers and since they're rotary you can put them in some of the more difficult to route spaces in your system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not very experienced in water cooling but I think it's not all true. I've read about using elbow fittings some time ago and few ppl did some calculations that they don't restrict so much. Cpu and gpu blocks are the nost restrictive, also FLOW METERS, having one of them in the loop is like few elbow fittings.
> This is an old post i've found, I don't know how much is that true and how much of this theory works in real life scenario but definitely interesting thing to read and think about:
> 
> QUOTE
> 
> "*I figured it would take about 5 mins to do some back-of-the envelope calculations to give you an idea of what penalty you'll pay for using 90 degree elbows in your pipes. Here it is:
> 
> Pump: Swiftech MCP355
> 120 GPH
> 20.2 ft. head pressure
> 3/8" tubing
> 
> First, I'm going to assume that the flow rate is actually 120 GPH. This represents the worst-case scenario because head loss in a 90 degree elbow is highest for the greatest flow rate. Your actual head loss will be less since the flow rate will be somewhat lower than 120 GPH. Onwards...
> 
> Flowrate, Q = 120 GPH = ... = 7.7 [cu.in/s]
> Pipe area, A = 1/4*pi*D^2 = 0.1104 [in^2]
> Nominal flow speed, V = Q/A = 5.8 [ft/s]
> 
> Dynamic pressure = 1/2*rho*V^2 = 0.5*1.938[slug/ft^3]*(5.8[ft/s])^2
> Pd = 32.6 lb/ft^2.
> 
> The loss from one 90 degree bend is approximately 0.5*Pd, so the head los PER bend is going to be about 16.3 [lb/ft^2], or 0.26 ft of head. This means that for each 90 degree bend, you can expect to lose only about 1% of flow.
> 
> This is the first-order approximation. Nonlinear factors will mean diminishing penalties as your flow rate is reduced, but then you do want to keep a certain flow rate, so if you use more 90 degree bends, you'll eventually want to get a stronger pump.
> 
> Conclusion: You'll be just fine putting in a few 90 degree joints in your pipe. It might actually be beneficial to put one of these bends just upstream of the CPU or GPU waterblock, as the increased turbulence is beneficial to heat transfer.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> PS: For a little comparison, the Swiftech Storm waterblock is rated for a 6 psi pressure drop at the 120 GPH flow rate. This is equal to 13.8 ft of head, or 53 90 degree joints.*"
> 
> END OF QUOTE
Click to expand...

Thank you for digging this up.

Main concern is the 90* Outlets. Then keep an eye on things and adjust accordingly. The one thing the above information you posted did not cover, was the pump(s). The one thing I have always read from the more experienced guys, is avoiding 90* fittings at the pump outlet whenever possible. Some builds, it simply cannot be avoided. Those are SFF where space is minimal and Steez's build doesn't fit that.

But see this is what I was referring to. 90* fittings at the pumps. One way to check this is to install a barb fitting at the outlet and connecting it with flexible tubing to the inlet of the next leg in the loop with another barb fitting. If the flow increases more than what he experienced bypassing the Radiator then the most likely issue may be uncovered.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^Actually, I think you may have found your biggest problem. A backward top can cut your flow more than you may imagine. So much so that your flowrate looks sluggish.
> Thank you for digging this up.
> 
> Main concern is the 90* Outlets. Then keep an eye on things and adjust accordingly. The one thing the above information you posted did not cover, was the pump(s). The one thing I have always read from the more experienced guys, is avoiding 90* fittings at the pump outlet whenever possible. Some builds, it simply cannot be avoided. Those are SFF where space is minimal and Steez's build doesn't fit that.
> 
> But see this is what I was referring to. 90* fittings at the pumps. One way to check this is to install a barb fitting at the outlet and connecting it with flexible tubing to the inlet of the next leg in the loop with another barb fitting. If the flow increases more than what he experienced bypassing the Radiator then the most likely issue may be uncovered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


And you say this is only on the outlet of the pump, and NOT the inlet? If that's the case, I'll go out and buy two of them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^Actually, I think you may have found your biggest problem. A backward top can cut your flow more than you may imagine. So much so that your flowrate looks sluggish.
> Thank you for digging this up.
> 
> Main concern is the 90* Outlets. Then keep an eye on things and adjust accordingly. The one thing the above information you posted did not cover, was the pump(s). The one thing I have always read from the more experienced guys, is avoiding 90* fittings at the pump outlet whenever possible. Some builds, it simply cannot be avoided. Those are SFF where space is minimal and Steez's build doesn't fit that.
> 
> But see this is what I was referring to. 90* fittings at the pumps. One way to check this is to install a barb fitting at the outlet and connecting it with flexible tubing to the inlet of the next leg in the loop with another barb fitting. If the flow increases more than what he experienced bypassing the Radiator then the most likely issue may be uncovered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you say this is only on the outlet of the pump, and NOT the inlet? If that's the case, I'll go out and buy two of them.
Click to expand...

Yup. You only require them on the outlet of the pumps. You can have them in more spots, but after pump outlet they become almost purely an aesthetic choice.

But drain your loop and flip that Raystorm top first. This way you can see if your issue is CPU top related. If it saves yourself some money before purchasing a couple $16 fittings that would be beneficial to your wallet no?









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yup. You only require them on the outlet of the pumps. You can have them in more spots, but after pump outlet they become almost purely an aesthetic choice.
> 
> But drain your loop and flip that Raystorm top first. This way you can see if your issue is CPU top related. If it saves yourself some money before purchasing a couple $16 fittings that would be beneficial to your wallet no?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Lol of course. I seriously can't believe I forgot about the inlet and outlet on it. I was thinking of switching to an EK one later on. I'm also going to open it up and check it.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^Actually, I think you may have found your biggest problem. A backward top can cut your flow more than you may imagine. So much so that your flowrate looks sluggish.
> Thank you for digging this up.
> 
> Main concern is the 90* Outlets. Then keep an eye on things and adjust accordingly. The one thing the above information you posted did not cover, was the pump(s). The one thing I have always read from the more experienced guys, is avoiding 90* fittings at the pump outlet whenever possible. Some builds, it simply cannot be avoided. Those are SFF where space is minimal and Steez's build doesn't fit that.
> 
> But see this is what I was referring to. 90* fittings at the pumps. One way to check this is to install a barb fitting at the outlet and connecting it with flexible tubing to the inlet of the next leg in the loop with another barb fitting. If the flow increases more than what he experienced bypassing the Radiator then the most likely issue may be uncovered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


hmmm, you make me feel a bit worried then. My pump outlet is straight but the tube bends few inches above and then there's an elbow fitting on gpus inlet. Is it considered as a big restriction on my pump's outlet?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yup. You only require them on the outlet of the pumps. You can have them in more spots, but after pump outlet they become almost purely an aesthetic choice.
> 
> But drain your loop and flip that Raystorm top first. This way you can see if your issue is CPU top related. If it saves yourself some money before purchasing a couple $16 fittings that would be beneficial to your wallet no?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol of course. I seriously can't believe I forgot about the inlet and outlet on it. I was thinking of switching to an EK one later on. I'm also going to open it up and check it.
Click to expand...

Steez, . . .

Have you ever had your Raystorm apart . . .

More than just getting the inlet / outlet connections backwards, which hurts your temps, but shouldn't do much to kill the flow . . . .

You wouldn't be the first person to get a CPU block back together 90* rotated, which absolutely KILLS your flow.

Rather than the coolant flowing thru the micro channels, it tries to flow across the tops of them.

You can see the channels on a Raystorm as soon as you look thru a fitting hole. They should run in a line from one fitting to the other.

If they run perpendicular to that line, then there's your problem.

Darlene


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^Actually, I think you may have found your biggest problem. A backward top can cut your flow more than you may imagine. So much so that your flowrate looks sluggish.
> Thank you for digging this up.
> 
> Main concern is the 90* Outlets. Then keep an eye on things and adjust accordingly. The one thing the above information you posted did not cover, was the pump(s). The one thing I have always read from the more experienced guys, is avoiding 90* fittings at the pump outlet whenever possible. Some builds, it simply cannot be avoided. Those are SFF where space is minimal and Steez's build doesn't fit that.
> 
> But see this is what I was referring to. 90* fittings at the pumps. One way to check this is to install a barb fitting at the outlet and connecting it with flexible tubing to the inlet of the next leg in the loop with another barb fitting. If the flow increases more than what he experienced bypassing the Radiator then the most likely issue may be uncovered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hmmm, you make me feel a bit worried then. My pump outlet is straight but the tube bends few inches above and then there's an elbow fitting on gpus inlet. Is it considered as a big restriction on my pump's outlet?
Click to expand...

You are fine. I'm referring to directly at the pump. Flow rate isn't immediately slowed in your setup. In Steez's setup however both Pumps have direct 90*s on them.

Your drain on the other hand...









Drains should be set up at the lowest point in the loop. This way gravity does most of the work draining your system. Your system looks good. Though it could use an improvement in this regard.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Steez, . . .
> 
> Have you ever had your Raystorm apart . . .
> 
> More than just getting the inlet / outlet connections backwards, which hurts your temps, but shouldn't do much to kill the flow . . . .
> 
> You wouldn't be the first person to get a CPU block back together 90* rotated, which absolutely KILLS your flow.
> 
> Rather than the coolant flowing thru the micro channels, it tries to flow across the tops of them.
> 
> *You can see the channels on a Raystorm as soon as you look thru a fitting hole*. They should run in a line from one fitting to the other.
> 
> If they run perpendicular to that line, then there's your problem.
> 
> Darlene


Had same problem with S3. What a killer! Was loosing at least 50% of the flow if not more due to the fins. Took the block apart to Polish it up and didn't even know or think of the fins. Picture for you.




And Diva. I love you.









TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Steez, . . .
> 
> Have you ever had your Raystorm apart . . .
> 
> More than just getting the inlet / outlet connections backwards, which hurts your temps, but shouldn't do much to kill the flow . . . .
> 
> You wouldn't be the first person to get a CPU block back together 90* rotated, which absolutely KILLS your flow.
> 
> Rather than the coolant flowing thru the micro channels, it tries to flow across the tops of them.
> 
> You can see the channels on a Raystorm as soon as you look thru a fitting hole. They should run in a line from one fitting to the other.
> 
> If they run perpendicular to that line, then there's your problem.
> 
> Darlene


No, I've never taken it apart. I'm planning to take it apart though to make sure it's clean and what not. I'll definately keep that in mind when I put it back together. Thanks.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Had same problem with S3. What a killer! Was loosing at least 50% of the flow if not more due to the fins. Took the block apart to Polish it up and didn't even know or think of the fins. Picture for you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Diva. I love you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Diva is already mine, so stop trying so hard.









Diva on back of my bike.

Joking of course.

...last day pity me.


----------



## Costas

All this talk of 90 deg fittings on the outlets of pumps restricting flow.....

While we haven't quite solved it for Sleezy as yet... A few points to consider.

A 90 deg fitting always has the exact same restriction irrespective of where its placed in a system, its restriction value does not magically change depending on where its located.

Generally mounting them at the output of a pump is no big deal... Its when they are mounted directly at the input of a pump that they may (but not always) cause a problem.

This is due to the possibility of them causing the flow to become very turbulent right at the input of the pump leading to excessive noises and air bubble generation.

There has been testing done by others that show the impact of 90s mounted directly on pump ports and the impact is not as great as people make it out to be.

I mentioned to Sleezy that he should check out his cpu block internals the other day as I would not be surprised if it has some debris inside etc.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Your drain on the other hand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drains should be set up at the lowest point in the loop. This way gravity does most of the work draining your system. Your system looks good. Though it could use an improvement in this regard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I hoped no one would notice that








I know about this, I am deeply embarrased tho. The only reason I did this is I had only 3 tubes left to work with and they were all 50 cm long. Turned out that it's too short of about 3 cm :/ I had to improvise and I couldn't waste any more tubes so the connection had to be where it is. I'll probably leave it for now till next occasion as it's only a drain and it doesn't affect actual performance. The only question is how am I gonna drain my loop with it?








I like that tube going on the side of my rad instead of in front of the res blocking it's view and the trouble is I use 14mm tubing from XSPC and Barrow and they both 50 cm long, haven't seen any other manufacturer making it longer than that


----------



## iBruce

Well I constructed a new custom XRES from parts that EK does not offer as an assembly, an X3 Lite reservoir coupled with a plexi XRES REVO top and only uses one outlet, to avoid using 90s directly outputting the pump.

I'm not allowed to post photos of the assembly.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Diva is already mine, so stop trying so hard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Diva on back of my bike.
> 
> Joking of course.
> 
> ...last day pity me.


I'm pretty sure you would be on the back of her bike.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> I hoped no one would notice that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know about this, I am deeply embarrased tho. The only reason I did this is I had only 3 tubes left to work with and they were all 50 cm long. Turned out that it's too short of about 3 cm :/ I had to improvise and I couldn't waste any more tubes so the connection had to be where it is. I'll probably leave it for now till next occasion as it's only a drain and it doesn't affect actual performance. The only question is how am I gonna drain my loop with it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like that tube going on the side of my rad instead of in front of the res blocking it's view and the trouble is I use 14mm tubing from XSPC and Barrow and they both 50 cm long, haven't seen any other manufacturer making it longer than that


You will just have to rotate your case or connect suction to your drain.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> All this talk of 90 deg fittings on the outlets of pumps restricting flow.....
> 
> While we haven't quite solved it for *Sleezy* as yet... A few points to consider.
> 
> A 90 deg fitting always has the exact same restriction irrespective of where its placed in a system, its restriction value does not magically change depending on where its located.
> 
> Generally mounting them at the output of a pump is no big deal... Its when they are mounted directly at the input of a pump that they may (but not always) cause a problem.
> 
> This is due to the possibility of them causing the flow to become very turbulent right at the input of the pump leading to excessive noises and air bubble generation.
> 
> There has been testing done by others that show the impact of 90s mounted directly on pump ports and the impact is not as great as people make it out to be.
> 
> I mentioned to *Sleezy* that he should check out his cpu block internals the other day as I would not be surprised if it has some debris inside etc.












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Well I constructed a new custom XRES from parts that EK does not offer as an assembly, an X3 Lite reservoir coupled with a plexi XRES REVO top and only uses one outlet, to avoid using 90s directly outputting the pump.
> 
> *I'm not allowed to post photos of the assembly*.




TCO


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> I'm pretty sure you would be on the back of her bike.


Possibly true.









but highly unlikely...

.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Unless you really want me to post those EK photos Br-OH?









.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you really want me to post those EK photos Br-OH?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

*Doooooooo et!* ~Shia Lebouf










~Ceadder


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *Doooooooo et!* ~Shia Lebouf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


TCO, Doesn't know who he's messin' with.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Diva is already mine, so stop trying so hard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Diva on back of my bike.
> 
> Joking of course.
> 
> ...last day pity me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure you would be on the back of her bike.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> I hoped no one would notice that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know about this, I am deeply embarrased tho. The only reason I did this is I had only 3 tubes left to work with and they were all 50 cm long. Turned out that it's too short of about 3 cm :/ I had to improvise and I couldn't waste any more tubes so the connection had to be where it is. I'll probably leave it for now till next occasion as it's only a drain and it doesn't affect actual performance. The only question is how am I gonna drain my loop with it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like that tube going on the side of my rad instead of in front of the res blocking it's view and the trouble is I use 14mm tubing from XSPC and Barrow and they both 50 cm long, haven't seen any other manufacturer making it longer than that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You will just have to rotate your case or connect suction to your drain.
Click to expand...

Kinda partial to my own bike . . .









Learned the hard way, about 40 years ago, not to ride 2 up . . . Haven't done it since . .



That's point Udall, by the way, the most eastern point in the USA

D.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Kinda partial to my own bike . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Learned the hard way, about 40 years ago, not to ride 2 up . . . Haven't done it since . .
> 
> 
> 
> That's point Udall, by the way, the most eastern point in the USA
> 
> D.


Some music for you.

We all love you so much, and the respect is endless.

Thank you Darlene.





.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Well I constructed a new custom XRES from parts that EK does not offer as an assembly, an X3 Lite reservoir coupled with a plexi XRES REVO top and only uses one outlet, to avoid using 90s directly outputting the pump.
> 
> I'm not allowed to post photos of the assembly.


whaaaaaaaa? what'd you tap the revo top? I won't be able to sleep tonight if I don't know!


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Some music for you.
> 
> We all love you so much, and the respect is endless.
> 
> Thank you Darlene.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


You have good taste in music. I am quite fond of OMAM. I am going retro and listening to The Sisters of Mercy today though.


----------



## Sazexa

Does anyone here have the Phanteks Evolv ITX? I'm trying to find radiator compatibility for it. It says 240/280mm in the front, and same for the top. It seems to me though, only an EK SE 240 would fit in the front, and then I can place an EK PE 240 on the top.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Does anyone here have the Phanteks Evolv ITX? I'm trying to find radiator compatibility for it. It says 240/280mm in the front, and same for the top. It seems to me though, only an EK SE 240 would fit in the front, and then I can place an EK PE 240 on the top.


According to the manual it's 240/280 top and 240 only in front. Measurements would be nice. Just have to get the case and measure first I guess.


----------



## plant

I'm a member of the 90* off the pump club (in and out), and I have to say, I have to run my pump at 35% or else my res turns into a roaring rapid and my entire desk vibrates. No flow issues here.



And oh yea, all EK parts except fittings, first post in this thread. All finished up:


----------



## Costas

EK - VRM, CPU, GPU Blocks........









EK - Dual CSQ Pump Housing......









Ridiculous number of 90s / 45s etc - System flows at 1.4 GPM....


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What are your load and ambient temps? You might be overthinking things. I have a black ice stealth which isn't all that restrictive. Of course it's not an apples to apples comparison, but if you have good temps I wouldn't sweat the small ish. You have any 90* fittings directly installed at the outlet ports? If so I would rethink the setup of your pumps. Hard 90*s aren't good for flow. In fact they limit it right off and with further restrictions along the way alter your overall performance. Just some things to look for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't test for temps now because my fan controller started smoking. I currently only have fans on the 560. I have a total of 13 90 degree fittings, and each in and out port on the pumps have a 90 degree fitting. However, I have pump/res combos, so it's not directly feeding the pump.
> 
> 
> 
> I've decided to hold off on the extra pumps for now. That was just like a backup plan. Before I do anything regarding pumps, I'll most likely swap my 560 GTS out with an SR2 or GTX.
Click to expand...

I'm interested to know your loop order. (Unrelated to your flow issue.)


----------



## saint19

Thread cleaned, less spam more EK.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I'm interested to know your loop order. (Unrelated to your flow issue.)


Id rather have this over in my build log. I feel like I'm spamming everywhere lol.

But for now;
Res/pump 1, CPU, RX480, RX240, Res/pump 2, 560 GTS, GPU, Res/pump 1


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plant*
> 
> I'm a member of the 90* off the pump club (in and out), and I have to say, I have to run my pump at 35% or else my res turns into a roaring rapid and my entire desk vibrates. No flow issues here.
> 
> 
> 
> And oh yea, all EK parts except fittings, first post in this thread. All finished up:


What case is this, the Define Nano S?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> Thread cleaned, less spam more EK.


Deal.

TCO


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> EK - VRM, CPU, GPU Blocks........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK - Dual CSQ Pump Housing......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ridiculous number of 90s / 45s etc - System flows at 1.4 GPM....


Damn, that is some seriously clean work. Good job!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> Thread cleaned, less spam more EK.


Thank you, appreciate it.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## plant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> What case is this, the Define Nano S?


Yes it is


----------



## Mack42

This new D5 G2 PWM pump from EK, does it work correctly with Asus motherboards? For example, in Asus UEFI, you can often chose if you want to use PWM or DC control on a fan header. So if I chose DC, and set it to a constant 40% or something, will it work?

The reason I ask is because of the description of this pump. It says the pump will default to 100% 12V DC if no PWM signal detected.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mack42*
> 
> This new D5 G2 PWM pump from EK, does it work correctly with Asus motherboards? For example, in Asus UEFI, you can often chose if you want to use PWM or DC control on a fan header. So if I chose DC, and set it to a constant 40% or something, will it work?
> 
> The reason I ask is because of the description of this pump. It says the pump will default to 100% 12V DC if no PWM signal detected.


It should work fine with any mobo with true PWM headers, but be sure to set the mobo control to PWM.

True PWM controlled devices are usually recommended against being voltage controlled by their manufacturers.

A lot of mobos before X99 and Z170 called their fan headers, (besides the ones for the CPU fans) "PWM compatible", which meant you could plug in a 4 wire PWM device, but it was still being controlled by variable voltage, transparently to the user.

Just be sure to plug the fan and tach signal 4 pin connector to a PWM header set to PWM control, and the 4 pin Molex to the PSU for power.

D.


----------



## derickwm

http://www.overclock.net/t/1590424/sponsored-verkt-y-cu-an-elegant-steampunk-2p-workstation/80#post_25123893


----------



## Castaile

About to place an order for acrylic setup. Planning on running EK's HDC fitting and may I ask besides chamfering off freshly cut tubes and wetting it before installing, do we need to sand down the seating depth of the tube to prevent destroying the o-rings?

EK fittings supposedly has about 9mm of seating depth...that's quite a bit of sanding


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castaile*
> 
> About to place an order for acrylic setup. Planning on running EK's HDC fitting and may I ask besides chamfering off freshly cut tubes and wetting it before installing, do we need to sand down the seating depth of the tube to prevent destroying the o-rings?
> EK fittings supposedly has about 9mm of seating depth...that's quite a bit of sanding


No you don't have to sand the seating depth. Only the chamfering.


----------



## Kutalion

Considering Broadwell-E has thinner PCB than haswell-E, will current monoblocks and waterblocks be compatible with current mounting systems?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Considering Broadwell-E has thinner PCB than haswell-E, will current monoblocks and waterblocks be compatible with current mounting systems?


Depends on how intel go about the socket height etc, Skylake has a thinner PCB than haswell but all mounting kits work fine with it due to socket and IHS height from what I've read.


----------



## funfordcobra

Yo EK, I need some waterblocks for my amps k thx. The FF5 really helps though down there lol! .5 ohm and 6000w draws some heat


----------



## Benjiw

Oh dear me...

Check this out for giggles.









https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/591884-flow-reversal/


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Oh dear me...
> 
> Check this out for giggles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/591884-flow-reversal/


As long as water was flowing through the block it wont overheat. The water will still be forced through the fins just not as efficiently, probably still better than some blocks I'd imagine.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> As long as water was flowing through the block it wont overheat. The water will still be forced through the fins just not as efficiently, probably still better than some blocks I'd imagine.


Having had my block apart to clean it I can say he must be running that pump on full speed in order to get over all that restriction. EK does say in bold on their instructions to use the inlet correctly.


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Having had my block apart to clean it I can say he must be running that pump on full speed in order to get over all that restriction. EK does say in bold on their instructions to use the inlet correctly.


Yeah but I don't think your statement about thermal shutdown is accurate.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> Yeah but I don't think your statement about thermal shutdown is accurate.


If the temp keeps climbing it will. I bet that D5 is on max speed to be keeping the temps down. Maybe we should all start reversing our EVO blocks and disregard what EK suggest?


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> If the temp keeps climbing it will. I bet that D5 is on max speed to be keeping the temps down. Maybe we should all start reversing our EVO blocks and disregard what EK suggest?


I agreed about doing what EK says but you thinking that it will some how keep climbing in temps is crazy. There has been some pretty crappy blocks designed that would keep a cpu under max temp and an EVO running backwards isn't as bad as them. He also stress tested for 3 hours!! and no overheat.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> If the temp keeps climbing it will. I bet that D5 is on max speed to be keeping the temps down. Maybe we should all start reversing our EVO blocks and disregard what EK suggest?


The block is is designed to work the.most optimum (ie lowest cpu temps) by having the flow configured as per EK's documentation. It will still function with the flow reversed but simply not as well.

Coolant will still flow through the block and keep the cpu cool... Its just that it will not be as cool if running in the correct direction.

Note that temp difference will only be a few degrees (ie no more than 5 to 10 etc) higher when running reversed... CPU will certainly not keep heating up and overheat etc.

While flow may be restricted further than normal, it will not be blocked so coolant will still circulate. You do not need a huge amount of flow to remove a substantial amount of heat from the cpu.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> The block is is designed to work the.most optimum (ie lowest cpu temps) by having the flow configured as per EK's documentation. It will still function with the flow reversed but simply not as well.
> 
> Coolant will still flow through the block and keep the cpu cool... Its just that it will not be as cool if running in the correct direction.
> 
> Note that temp difference will only be a few degrees (ie no more than 5 to 10 etc) higher when running reversed... CPU will certainly not keep heating up and overheat etc.
> 
> While flow may be restricted further than normal, it will not be blocked so coolant will still circulate. You do not need a huge amount of flow to remove a substantial amount of heat from the cpu.


Has it been tested somewhere I can review the stats? Or have you done it personally? I'd love to see the temp difference reversed with a D5 on speed setting 1.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Has it been tested somewhere I can review the stats? Or have you done it personally? I'd love to see the temp difference reversed with a D5 on speed setting 1.


Not seen any formal testing on reversed setups.... However there have been numerous posts where people accidently hookup their cpu block incorrectly. Most obvious is flow restriction rather than temp issues.

You need to remember that the block is not a one way valve which only permits flow in the one direction.

Flow will occur in the reverse direction as it is still effectively open for liquid to pass but not quite as efficiently over the cooling channels etc.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Has it been tested somewhere I can review the stats? Or have you done it personally? I'd love to see the temp difference reversed with a D5 on speed setting 1.
> 
> 
> 
> Not seen any formal testing on reversed setups.... However there have been numerous posts where people accidently hookup their cpu block incorrectly. Most obvious is flow restriction rather than temp issues.
> 
> You need to remember that the block is not a one way valve which only permits flow in the one direction.
> 
> Flow will occur in the reverse direction as it is still effectively open for liquid to pass but not quite as efficiently over the cooling channels etc.
Click to expand...

Exactly! It's just a matter whether the block is operated optimally or not. Flow rate may affected, as well as temp but for the temp to climb non-stop is very unlikely.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Exactly! It's just a matter whether the block is operated optimally or not. Flow rate may affected, as well as temp but for the temp to climb non-stop is very unlikely.


Okay okay I get it, my mistake.


----------



## rubenlol2

Broadwell-e is 100% compatible with the current mounting system, even though the substrate is thinner the IHS is slightly thicker to compensate to make the distance the same.
I don't think there is any difference between mounting hardware between LGA 2011 (sandybridge-e/ivybridge-e) and LGA 2011 V3 (haswell-e/broadwell-e).
Skylake-e is very likely to use the same mounting as well.


----------



## pdasterly

does acetal crack like the acrylic ?
All my acrylic blocks cracked when i let them remain dry after draining


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> does acetal crack like the acrylic ?


No - Acetal is a much softer material so it does not develop fractures like Acrylic can.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> does acetal crack like the acrylic ?
> All my acrylic blocks cracked when i let them remain dry after draining


I have an old Supreme High Flow that other than marring looks as good as the day I first opened the package. Are you sure it had to do with them being dry? Mine has been empty for >2 years.









~Ceadder


----------



## pdasterly

north bridge mobo block
monarchy x4 block
also cracked but not pictured. Ran for about 2-3 months, drained system then about year later when reassembling i noticed hairline fractures in the acrylic. upon further inspection all the blocks cracked, only one to survive was southbridge block. Replacement blocks were hard to find since product is EOL


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Kinda looks like over tightened fittings.


----------



## xarot

Hi,

What's going on with my EK fittings? Ran a temporary loop with straight distilled water for 10 days or so. CPU block was full of black particles, I guess from the fittings. Looks like the paint is coming off?







fittings were brand new. Same with all of them I used..


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Kinda looks like over tightened fittings.


primochill fitting, hand tight


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> primochill fitting, hand tight


hmmm... strange.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> What's going on with my EK fittings? Ran a temporary loop with straight distilled water for 10 days or so. CPU block was full of black particles, I guess from the fittings. Looks like the paint is coming off?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fittings were brand new. Same with all of them I used..


Same thing happened in my loop which was super easy to spot because of the white dye. Loop has been drained, clea ed and refilled....I'll update if it occurs again since it's only been running a few days so far. It was about two weeks for me before I started to see black things swimming.


----------



## MikeTheTiger

With the official announcement of the GTX 1080 & 1070 last night, how soon will we see GPU blocks?


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> With the official announcement of the GTX 1080 & 1070 last night, how soon will we see GPU blocks?


I'm hoping Mid-Late June if we are lucky.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> With the official announcement of the GTX 1080 & 1070 last night, how soon will we see GPU blocks?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm hoping Mid-Late June if we are lucky.
Click to expand...

Well I would surely hope with EK being who they are they would have already gotten a sample board and have been working on it. I know sometimes things change close to the end, but the final revision of the board has been probably been done for a few weeks now, if not longer.


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Well I would surely hope with EK being who they are they would have already gotten a sample board and have been working on it. I know sometimes things change close to the end, but the final revision of the board has been probably been done for a few weeks now, if not longer.


I hope so. I sold off my Matrix GTX 980ti Wednesday. I'm ready for the upgrade in my rebuild.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Well I would surely hope with EK being who they are they would have already gotten a sample board and have been working on it. I know sometimes things change close to the end, but the final revision of the board has been probably been done for a few weeks now, if not longer.
> 
> 
> 
> I hope so. I sold off my Matrix GTX 980ti Wednesday. I'm ready for the upgrade in my rebuild.
Click to expand...

Well hopefully one of the EK reps will jump in here and give an ETA. Wouldn't that be something if the 980 block fit the 1080.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Well hopefully one of the EK reps will jump in here and give an ETA. Wouldn't that be something if the 980 block fit the 1080.










i love you for even mentioning the idea


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i love you for even mentioning the idea


Ek teased something the other night in a blue box? I imagine its the 1080 block.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ek teased something the other night in a blue box? I imagine its the 1080 block.












now to wait and see how it actually performs, NOT according to its manufacturer









Still the excitement mounts









I'm feeling emotional today apparently


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now to wait and see how it actually performs, NOT according to its manufacturer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still the excitement mounts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm feeling emotional today apparently


Tbh it doesn't matter what it is I always get a bit hyped, I got mega excited over DDR4 being mainstream lol.


----------



## jvidia

Hello friends.

I'm really disappointed with the EK-ACF fittings quality/packaging control.

I ordered 6 x "*EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Black Nickel*" fittings from coolmod.com (spanish online store) and when they arrived the color didn't matched on two of them:



The ones with the red arrow are the ones that not match "Nickel Black" and looks like the normal Nickel color.

The EAN numbers on the bag labels were the same on all 6 bags: 3831109846551 (black nickel as it can be seen on the official EK page)

I RMA'd the two not matching ones and a few days after I received two back.

Again, the same problem ..... see the photo of what I received:



The two ones I received did not match each other!!! REALLY!?!









As in the original order both had the "Nickel Black" EAN.

After 2 failed attempts I returned all the 6 and switched my order to the "*EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Black*".

Yesterday I received them and guess what ... in 6 black ones 1 is not equal to the others! Take a look:







It's more hard to seen than in the Nickel ones, but look at the one with the red arrow ... it's less glossy and not 100% black.

Again the EAN numbers on the bag labels where the same: 3831109846605 ( black as it can be seen on the official EK page ).

I know that there are the Elox Black ones but the EAN is different (3831109846568)!

Is this normal???? Different colors, same EAN!!? Who's to blame?? The store for selling switched products or EK for miss labeling??

*Is any one from EK around here to help me?!
*

This is ridiculous ... I'm 3 weeks away from the 1st order and still don't have the fittings to assemble in my new wc loop.
I just want 6 fittings, imagine if it was 20 or more as I see in some wc loops here in the forum!

I'm thinking on going to another brand!


----------



## SteezyTN

For those of you that are wanting the new G2 D5 PWM pumps, PPCS told me that they should be expecting them this Monday.

If my flow is low, I may get a Dual revo with them. Why? Because I want to run my pumps quietly







is 4 pumps needed? No, but why not lol.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> does acetal crack like the acrylic ?
> All my acrylic blocks cracked when i let them remain dry after draining


Did you clean them with alcohol or windex? That's an almost guaranteed formula for getting cracks in acrylic


----------



## pdasterly

naw


----------



## jvillaveces

Just a guess. We know acrylic may crack when exposed to alcohol, and will crack when you overtighten fittings or screws. I had never heard of it cracking from getting dry...


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> For those of you that are wanting the new G2 D5 PWM pumps, PPCS told me that they should be expecting them this Monday.
> 
> If my flow is low, I may get a Dual revo with them. Why? Because I want to run my pumps quietly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is 4 pumps needed? No, but why not lol.


Yes sir... thats what I'm talking about.. 4 D5's.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Hello friends.
> 
> I'm really disappointed with the EK ACF fittings quality control.
> 
> I ordered 6 x "*EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Black Nickel*" fittings from coolmod.com (spanish online store) and after they sent me 2 orders they couldn't get the color to match for all 6 fittings!! See the foto of the RMA ones (left one looks like a normal nickel):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The EAN numbers on the bag labels where the same: 3831109846551 (black nickel as it can be seen on the official EK page)
> 
> After 2 failed orders I switched my order to the "*EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Black*".
> 
> Yesterday I received them and guess what ... in 6 black ones 1 is not equal to the others! Take a look:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again the EAN numbers on the bag labels where the same: 3831109846605 ( black as it can be seen on the official EK page ).
> 
> I know that there are the Elox Black ones but the EAN is different (3831109846568)!
> 
> Is this normal???? Different colors, same EAN!!? Who's to blame?? The store or EK??
> 
> I'm 3 weeks away from the 1st order and still no fittings to assemble in my new wc loop.
> 
> I'm thinking on going to another brand!


normal i think. I used over 20 of those black nickel fittings before i went to hardline a few months ago. Always had some that were lighter and some that were darker. Seemed like the plating process was inconsistent. I never noticed it once everything was installed though and that was in a brightly lit case.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Hello friends.
> 
> I'm really disappointed with the EK-ACF fittings quality/packaging control.
> 
> I ordered 6 x "*EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Black Nickel*" fittings from coolmod.com (spanish online store) and when they arrived the color didn't matched on two of them (left ones looks like a normal nickel):
> 
> 
> 
> I RMA'd the two not matching ones and a few days I received two back.
> Again see the photo of what I received:
> 
> 
> 
> A in the original order, the EAN numbers on the bag labels where the same: 3831109846551 (black nickel as it can be seen on the official EK page)
> 
> After 2 failed attempts I switched my order to the "*EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Black*".
> 
> Yesterday I received them and guess what ... in 6 black ones 1 is not equal to the others! Take a look:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again the EAN numbers on the bag labels where the same: 3831109846605 ( black as it can be seen on the official EK page ).
> 
> I know that there are the Elox Black ones but the EAN is different (3831109846568)!
> 
> Is this normal???? Different colors, same EAN!!? Who's to blame?? The store or EK??
> 
> I'm 3 weeks away from the 1st order and still no fittings to assemble in my new wc loop.
> 
> I'm thinking on going to another brand!


I think your being over critical here. Once you have everything in your loop with bling bling lights going on you won't even notice it. Look at my sig rig, I have barrows chrome compressions and EK chrome snakes and next to each other the EK has a very yellowish tint, but once put in action beside everything else you can't hardly tell the difference. Anything that is massed produced can have some slight differences, even within the same lot


----------



## jvidia

Over critical?!?!?

Demanding the same color or 6 fittings is being over critical?

LOL


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Over critical?!?!?
> 
> Demanding the same color or 6 fittings is being over critical?
> 
> LOL


To be fair, there is only a slight variation on the images, I would just put the lighter ones out of view and build my rig.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> To be fair, there is only a slight variation on the images, I would just put the lighter ones out of view and build my rig.


To be fair, the amount of money we spend on this stuff is not trivial. We should expect near perfection. If this were me I'd order more than I needed and return all the discolored ones after my build. Or just buy Bitspower...


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> To be fair, there is only a slight variation on the images, I would just put the lighter ones out of view and build my rig.


All this 6 will be very visible!

This hobbie is for people that look perfection and pay for it.
If EK doesn't deliver that than EK is not for me








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> To be fair, the amount of money we spend on this stuff is not trivial. We should expect near perfection. If this were me I'd order more than I needed and return all the discolored ones after my build. Or just buy Bitspower...


That's my though too!

Almost 30€ in 6 fittings and the color is not equal?!?! Joking right?

Where can I buy Bitspower at good price in europe?


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Where can I buy Bitspower at good price in europe?


www.overclockers.co.uk ??

I'm in the US so not exactly sure.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Over critical?!?!?
> 
> Demanding the same color or 6 fittings is being over critical?
> 
> LOL


Don't worry man, what you're asking for isn't that much. I completely understand where you're coming from. Being over critical is whining about a pump being bundled with a pump top


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> does acetal crack like the acrylic ?
> All my acrylic blocks cracked when i let them remain dry after draining


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Over critical?!?!?
> 
> Demanding the same color or 6 fittings is being over critical?
> 
> LOL
> 
> 
> 
> *Being over critical is whining about a pump being bundled with a pump top*
Click to expand...

Not really, considering EK fixed that issue 100%.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## nyk20z3




----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Don't worry man, what you're asking for isn't that much. I completely understand where you're coming from. Being over critical is whining about a pump being bundled with a pump top


?? can you "translate" that? I'm lost


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Over critical?!?!?
> 
> Demanding the same color or 6 fittings is being over critical?
> 
> LOL


Based on your reply and lame lol I can tell you didn't read anything I typed past those two words, so maybe you shouldnt make a post with a ton of question marks asking for responses if your just going to dismiss them as insane. Hope you find your absolute perfection in another brand.


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Based on your reply and lame lol I can tell you didn't read anything I typed past those two words, so maybe you shouldnt make a post with a ton of question marks asking for responses if your just going to dismiss them as insane. Hope you find your absolute perfection in another brand.


Yes I've read all you wrote don't worry.


----------



## Touge180SX

And it starts again....


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> With the official announcement of the GTX 1080 & 1070 last night, how soon will we see GPU blocks?


Soon™


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubenlol2*
> 
> Broadwell-e is 100% compatible with the current mounting system, even though the substrate is thinner the IHS is slightly thicker to compensate to make the distance the same.
> I don't think there is any difference between mounting hardware between LGA 2011 (sandybridge-e/ivybridge-e) and LGA 2011 V3 (haswell-e/broadwell-e).
> Skylake-e is very likely to use the same mounting as well.


Tbh intel needs to do what amd did.

One unified mounting system.

At least then we would only need 2 different mounts, intel and amd


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rubenlol2*
> 
> Broadwell-e is 100% compatible with the current mounting system, even though the substrate is thinner the IHS is slightly thicker to compensate to make the distance the same.
> I don't think there is any difference between mounting hardware between LGA 2011 (sandybridge-e/ivybridge-e) and LGA 2011 V3 (haswell-e/broadwell-e).
> Skylake-e is very likely to use the same mounting as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Tbh intel needs to do what amd did.
> 
> One unified mounting system.
> 
> At least then we would only need 2 different mounts, intel and amd
Click to expand...

That would make too much sense. Intel isn't about sense, they're about marketing and sales. Plus constantly changing the package keeps the competetion guessing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rubenlol2*
> 
> Broadwell-e is 100% compatible with the current mounting system, even though the substrate is thinner the IHS is slightly thicker to compensate to make the distance the same.
> I don't think there is any difference between mounting hardware between LGA 2011 (sandybridge-e/ivybridge-e) and LGA 2011 V3 (haswell-e/broadwell-e).
> Skylake-e is very likely to use the same mounting as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Tbh intel needs to do what amd did.
> 
> One unified mounting system.
> 
> At least then we would only need 2 different mounts, intel and amd
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That would make too much sense. Intel isn't about sense, they're about marketing and sales. Plus constantly changing the package keeps the competetion guessing.
Click to expand...

All well an good when they built their own Enthusiast grade boards. They got out of that game, so honestly it's the manufacturers that make Intel grade boards to pick a socket type and stick with it whenever they can.









~Ceadder


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Hello friends.
> 
> I'm really disappointed with the EK-ACF fittings quality/packaging control.
> 
> I ordered 6 x "*EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Black Nickel*" fittings from coolmod.com (spanish online store) and when they arrived the color didn't matched on two of them:
> 
> 
> 
> The ones with the red arrow are the ones that not match "Nickel Black" and looks like the normal Nickel color.
> 
> The EAN numbers on the bag labels were the same on all 6 bags: 3831109846551 (black nickel as it can be seen on the official EK page)
> 
> I RMA'd the two not matching ones and a few days after I received two back.
> 
> Again, the same problem ..... see the photo of what I received:
> 
> 
> 
> The two ones I received did not match each other!!! REALLY!?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As in the original order both had the "Nickel Black" EAN.
> 
> After 2 failed attempts I returned all the 6 and switched my order to the "*EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Black*".
> 
> Yesterday I received them and guess what ... in 6 black ones 1 is not equal to the others! Take a look:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's more hard to seen than in the Nickel ones, but look at the one with the red arrow ... it's less glossy and not 100% black.
> 
> Again the EAN numbers on the bag labels where the same: 3831109846605 ( black as it can be seen on the official EK page ).
> 
> I know that there are the Elox Black ones but the EAN is different (3831109846568)!
> 
> Is this normal???? Different colors, same EAN!!? Who's to blame?? The store for selling switched products or EK for miss labeling??
> 
> *Is any one from EK around here to help me?!
> *
> 
> This is ridiculous ... I'm 3 weeks away from the 1st order and still don't have the fittings to assemble in my new wc loop.
> I just want 6 fittings, imagine if it was 20 or more as I see in some wc loops here in the forum!
> 
> I'm thinking on going to another brand!


Doesn't look too bad i don't think...i'm on a 40" 4K monitor too, just put the off colored one in an inconspicuous place like the port on the rear of the radiator...nobody will see that.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> With the official announcement of the GTX 1080 & 1070 last night, how soon will we see GPU blocks?


If anything like previous releases, we should see limited quantities of blocks available either on the card's release date or shortly thereafter (usually less than a week). Any custom pcb cards are usually 2-3 months after launch due to customs being released about a month later than reference in combination with the fact that sometimes third party companies take their time in getting information to ekwb (or demand isn't expected to be high, or other models are flying off the shelves with people throwing fistfuls of cash at their monitors etc).

Note that this is just specualtion though, and I'm sure soon enough an actual EK rep will confirm things when they're able to (aka allowed to, and/or have confirmed dates as to when they will be available)


----------



## johnd0e

sarcasm below

1080 will be compatible with 780 classy block.........this just in.....still no name change on the block














hahaha


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> sarcasm below
> 
> 1080 will be compatible with 780 classy block.........this just in.....still no name change on the block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hahaha


Naaah, this time they add "nyeh!" or "mf-gpu" so that they can say there was a change







(also sarcasm)


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *johnd0e*
> 
> sarcasm below
> 
> 1080 will be compatible with 780 classy block.........this just in.....still no name change on the block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hahaha
> 
> 
> 
> Naaah, this time they add "nyeh!" or "mf-gpu" so that they can say there was a change
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (also sarcasm)
Click to expand...

Well in EK's defense if it fits then why reinvent the wheel, 95% of the time the name won't be seen anyway.

In our defense, is it too much to ask if EK is going to save a ton of money reusing blocks that they can't add a simple badge to place over the old name...?


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Doesn't look too bad i don't think...i'm on a 40" 4K monitor too, just put the off colored one in an inconspicuous place like the port on the rear of the radiator...nobody will see that.


well just knowing 1 fitting has off colour would make me mad


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Doesn't look too bad i don't think...i'm on a 40" 4K monitor too, just put the off colored one in an inconspicuous place like the port on the rear of the radiator...nobody will see that.
> 
> 
> 
> well just knowing 1 fitting has off colour would make me mad
Click to expand...

I feel ya bro.

I got a short collar on a set of Hardline fittings I purchased. It was still usable, but my OCD took over...

When I noticed...

When compared to the rest...

My reacion....


PPCs contacted the manufacturer(wasn't EK btw) and the manufacturer simply told em to ship me a new one and they would replace the loss on their end to PPCs. Problem solved, everybody happy.









I will say that I have purchased a generous amount of fittings from this manufacturer without nary an issue. But it only takes once. However in your case I think that it's at the vendor's end and not the Manufacturer. Because I see those being more Shiny Nickel that Black Nickel. But that's just my









Personally I would try ordering from elsewhere one fitting to get a bearing on the issue. Now if it's coming from EK then Eddy probably should do this to the picker...












~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> north bridge mobo block
> monarchy x4 block
> also cracked but not pictured. Ran for about 2-3 months, drained system then about year later when reassembling i noticed hairline fractures in the acrylic. upon further inspection all the blocks cracked, only one to survive was southbridge block. Replacement blocks were hard to find since product is EOL


It's not over tightened. It's the primochill revolvers. I had two ek supermacy that did this to me. Bought new tops each time. The third time I used ek 90 adapter off it and never had a problem with spidering since. It's because some revolvers out slightly larger on the threads


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> well just knowing 1 fitting has off colour would make me mad


That precisely my feeling.

I'm crazy for perfection and cant handle this kind of flaws, but some people here don't understand that


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> well just knowing 1 fitting has off colour would make me mad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That precisely my feeling.
> 
> I'm crazy for perfection and cant handle this kind of flaws, but some people here don't understand that
Click to expand...

I get the OCD, trust me I'm OCD about a lot of dumb things. My point was once you get them in the rig with everything complete you will never see it. Your looking at them side by side together on a pure white background, you will notice almost any small imperfection that way. You can always try to RMA them.


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I feel ya bro.
> 
> I got a short collar on a set of Hardline fittings I purchased. It was still usable, but my OCD took over...
> 
> When I noticed...
> 
> When compared to the rest...
> 
> My reacion....
> 
> 
> PPCs contacted the manufacturer(wasn't EK btw) and the manufacturer simply told em to ship me a new one and they would replace the loss on their end to PPCs. Problem solved, everybody happy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will say that I have purchased a generous amount of fittings from this manufacturer without nary an issue. But it only takes once. However in your case I think that it's at the vendor's end and not the Manufacturer. Because I see those being more Shiny Nickel that Black Nickel. But that's just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally I would try ordering from elsewhere one fitting to get a bearing on the issue. Now if it's coming from EK then Eddy probably should do this to the picker...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


At this time I'm not in the mood to find out who's the fault. After 3 tries, I never get equal EK fittings.

3 weeks to get 6 equal fittings?!?! This is insane! Imagine if I needed 20! LOL









I have just RMA them and they are going back next week.

I'm going to get some XSPC/BP ones.

I prefer to spend some more € and get equal connectors.

For my tubing (16/12mm - 7/16ID/5/8OD) I can only find the XSPC ones.

For the 1/2ID there is a lot more offer


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> You can always try to RMA them.


Done









I created a RMA for them yesterday but not going for a replacement ... I want a refund.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It's not over tightened. It's the primochill revolvers. I had two ek supermacy that did this to me. Bought new tops each time. The third time I used ek 90 adapter off it and never had a problem with spidering since. It's because some revolvers out slightly larger on the threads


did you think im safe with the acetal blocks or should I get new fittinings


----------



## JCArch

I just got a cool little surprise from a buddy of mine!





He decided to get out of the computer building game and gave me some of his older water cooling components and these were among them. One is for two separate loops and the other is for a single. Not too sure what I'm going to do with them as my build doesn't come close to requiring two pumps, but they may be worth hanging onto for the future. I'm sure I can find a reason to expand my loop at some point


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> I just got a cool little surprise from a buddy of mine!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He decided to get out of the computer building game and gave me some of his older water cooling components and these were among them. One is for two separate loops and the other is for a single. Not too sure what I'm going to do with them as my build doesn't come close to requiring two pumps, but they may be worth hanging onto for the future. I'm sure I can find a reason to expand my loop at some point


I've been using that EK Dual D5 top (single res. version) for several years now, it still works well.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> I just got a cool little surprise from a buddy of mine!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He decided to get out of the computer building game and gave me some of his older water cooling components and these were among them. One is for two separate loops and the other is for a single. Not too sure what I'm going to do with them as my build doesn't come close to requiring two pumps, but they may be worth hanging onto for the future. I'm sure I can find a reason to expand my loop at some point


Sad to see a fellow enthusiast leave the scene, but good to see you already have parts for the next build


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I've been using that EK Dual D5 top (single res. version) for several years now, it still works well.


Glad to hear that! Ever since I got it I've been trying to find a way to incorporate it. Maybe if I can finally track down a Caselabs S8S I'll be able to get it fired up. Are there different reservoir sizes that will fit onto it?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I've been using that EK Dual D5 top (single res. version) for several years now, it still works well.
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to hear that! Ever since I got it I've been trying to find a way to incorporate it. Maybe if I can finally track down a Caselabs S8S I'll be able to get it fired up. Are there different reservoir sizes that will fit onto it?
Click to expand...

Any D5 pump should work.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It's not over tightened. It's the primochill revolvers. I had two ek supermacy that did this to me. Bought new tops each time. The third time I used ek 90 adapter off it and never had a problem with spidering since. It's because some revolvers out slightly larger on the threads


Thanks for the heads up, another reason I'll stay clear of their products bar the CTR they sell, I love mine.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Glad to hear that! Ever since I got it I've been trying to find a way to incorporate it. Maybe if I can finally track down a Caselabs S8S I'll be able to get it fired up. Are there different reservoir sizes that will fit onto it?


hey, I've got one of those dual loop tops and it's been great. There are different sizes but they're hard to find since they're an older style. Has to be that type or any res that uses g 1/4 will also work with additional support on the res. I'm using some that are g1/4 since I didn't like the size I was able to find. I got a couple of the small res's like you've got pictured there with it


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> hey, I've got one of those dual loop tops and it's been great. There are different sizes but they're hard to find since they're an older style. Has to be that type or any res that uses g 1/4 will also work with additional support on the res. I'm using some that are g1/4 since I didn't like the size I was able to find. I got a couple of the small res's like you've got pictured there with it


Yeah, I figured there could be compatibility issues since it's a little dated. I'll take a look around, though.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> hey, I've got one of those dual loop tops and it's been great. There are different sizes but they're hard to find since they're an older style. Has to be that type or any res that uses g 1/4 will also work with additional support on the res. I'm using some that are g1/4 since I didn't like the size I was able to find. I got a couple of the small res's like you've got pictured there with it
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I figured there could be compatibility issues since it's a little dated. I'll take a look around, though.
Click to expand...

I've used several different reservoirs with it, connected by a G1/4 male-male adapter, to the inlet port.

Originally, it had the option of threading the older EK Multi-Option reservoir tube directly to the top. When EK widened their res tube, they made an adapter which still allowed this, I have one as well.

But any current reservoirs have to be connected with the fitting now.

Edit:
Found an original video for it, done by Dazmode when he was selling them:


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I've used several different reservoirs with it, connected by a G1/4 male-male adapter, to the inlet port.
> 
> Originally, it had the option of threading the older EK Multi-Option reservoir tube directly to the top. When EK widened their res tube, they made an adapter which still allowed this, I have one as well.
> 
> But any current reservoirs have to be connected with the fitting now.


Gotcha. It looks like fitting two current reservoirs could be a tight fit. Glad to know there's a way!


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> All this 6 will be very visible!
> 
> This hobbie is for people that look perfection and pay for it.
> If EK doesn't deliver that than EK is not for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's my though too!
> 
> Almost 30€ in 6 fittings and the color is not equal?!?! Joking right?
> 
> 
> 
> Where can I buy Bitspower at good price in europe?


Being this is the EK Club, I'll post a option in the Bitspower Owners gallery.


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> All this 6 will be very visible!
> 
> This hobbie is for people that look perfection and pay for it.
> If EK doesn't deliver that than EK is not for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's my though too!
> 
> Almost 30€ in 6 fittings and the color is not equal?!?! Joking right?
> 
> 
> 
> Where can I buy Bitspower at good price in europe?
> 
> 
> 
> Being this is the EK Club, I'll post a option in the Bitspower Owners gallery.
Click to expand...

Thank you!


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Same thing happened in my loop which was super easy to spot because of the white dye. Loop has been drained, clea ed and refilled....I'll update if it occurs again since it's only been running a few days so far. It was about two weeks for me before I started to see black things swimming.


Thanks for your reply. So I am not the only one. I think I'll stick for something else than EK regarding fittings.


----------



## akira749

For everyone who asked about the 1080 block...

We are already working on the block. We hope to be ready near the release of the block.









But no official ETA for now.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> For everyone who asked about the 1080 block...
> 
> We are already working on the block. We hope to be ready near the release of the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But no official ETA for now.


Are there by any chance any Polaris blocks in the works too?


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> For everyone who asked about the 1080 block...
> 
> We are already working on the block. We hope to be ready near the release of the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But no official ETA for now.


That's what I'm talking about!! It's great that you guys are listening to what the community is discussing.







I'm rebuilding my rig and have all new EK parts ready to go. All that's missing is the 1080 and block.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> For everyone who asked about the 1080 block...
> 
> We are already working on the block. We hope to be ready near the release of the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But no official ETA for now.


Can you confirm or deny that any previous x80/x70 block will fit?


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Can you confirm or deny that any previous x80/x70 block will fit?


I'm going to guess that they'll need an all new block. I watched the Nvidia live stream and they talked quite a bit about the reworked power delivery system. Most likely that will affect board layout.


----------



## MrMD

Im assuming Thermosphere blocks are stil compatible with the x70/x80 aswell using the out of the box mounting materials like the 6/7/9xx series?


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Are there by any chance any Polaris blocks in the works too?


As if they would tell you if there are


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Can you confirm or deny that any previous x80/x70 block will fit?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to guess that they'll need an all new block. I watched the Nvidia live stream and they talked quite a bit about the reworked power delivery system. Most likely that will affect board layout.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure this is the case also, but there is about to be fire sales on 970s and 980s and it would be nice to know if folks can keep thier blocks.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Are there by any chance any Polaris blocks in the works too?


I will try to know, but were still a few months away from a potential release of the GPU.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Can you confirm or deny that any previous x80/x70 block will fit?


Since we are making a new block, we can assume that any previous blocks are compatible.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Im assuming Thermosphere blocks are stil compatible with the x70/x80 aswell using the out of the box mounting materials like the 6/7/9xx series?


It "should" remain compatible....I just don't know if it will be with the original mounting plate or if you will need a new special mounting plate for it.


----------



## Enapace

Thanks for letting us know about the 1080 Block think 1080 SLI is going make a good gaming experience for a while to come


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Thanks for your reply. So I am not the only one. I think I'll stick for something else than EK regarding fittings.


Actually I am a derp and my fittings are bitspower but they are the new black so maybe the same paint thus same problem. Anyway sorry for the error....I had the cooling array built by someone else and everything else is EK other than the fittings.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Are there by any chance any Polaris blocks in the works too?


They'd say something like "we'd tell you but then we'd have to kill you" except the ninjas have a three day weekend, and are off on Mondays.

.... Don't let them know I let their secret out!









(to those who think I'm being serious, nope, just silly)


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> did you think im safe with the acetal blocks or should I get new fittinings


I've never seen it happen with what you have now mommy on plexi top


----------



## jvidia

Hi folks.

I would like to give an update on my reported problem with the EK-ACF fittings.

Without any contact from me, EK offered to replace the fitting that is discolored.

It's nice to see this kind of attention to customer satisfaction arround here.

Thank you vey much Andrej


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I will try to know, but were still a few months away from a potential release of the GPU.


Thanks, just starting to get curious since the paper launch is supposedly coming up near the end of the month.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> They'd say something like "we'd tell you but then we'd have to kill you" except the ninjas have a three day weekend, and are off on Mondays.
> 
> .... Don't let them know I let their secret out!


You can't even rely on ninjas anymore these days, times sure are changing.


----------



## FXformat

New EK and Bitspower goodies...this pump/res is awesome, used it on my last build and using it again...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## d0mmie

So I noticed that EK has both HD and HDC fittings in their catalog. Is there any real benefit for HDC over HD with PEGT tubing? My build will be a small one, in a Bitfenix Prodigy M case.


----------



## catbuster

HDC are compresion fittings, HD are push in


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> So I noticed that EK has both HD and HDC fittings in their catalog. Is there any real benefit for HDC over HD with PEGT tubing? My build will be a small one, in a Bitfenix Prodigy M case.


HD fittings are a push in fit. The HDC fittings have a compression collar that tightens down on an o-ring compressing it against the sides of the tube. I would think the HDC fittings are more secure but the HD fittings are easier to use. I'd use HDC but that's just personal preference.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Is it possible to get some slight changes to the KITS you sell on your site, for example I`d like the P360 KIT but I dont like the plexi cpu block on it, could I change it to the nickel one and just pay the difference, or is that not possible


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Is it possible to get some slight changes to the KITS you sell on your site, for example I`d like the P360 KIT but I dont like the plexi cpu block on it, could I change it to the nickel one and just pay the difference, or is that not possible


No sorry


----------



## akira749

Sorry about the delay of publishing.









The block was released last week but I forgot to start the thread here.

EK releases AMD RADEON Pro Duo Full-Cover water block


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Sorry about the delay of publishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The block was released last week but I forgot to start the thread here.
> 
> EK releases AMD RADEON Pro Duo Full-Cover water block


Absolutely criminal to see that in acetal when the acrylic version looks so nice!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## RebelHell

So I was digging through my old computer parts box today and found and old power brick that came with a IDE to USB adapter. Has a Molex and SATA connector and puts out 12V and 5V at 1.5A each. I got to thinking this would be great for powering the pump while I fill and leak test the system without disconnecting the PSU from my motherboard and jumping the pins. That led to some more thinking, dangerous I know. I got to figuring I could control that pump via PWM from an Arduino Pro Mini I had in a drawer. So I threw together a simple circuit with a potentiometer for my control, a simple program to read the analog value from the POT and convert to a PWM signal on the output pins. Tested it on an old PWM fan and it worked perfectly! Haven't tested on the pump yet. If it is as lenient about the PWM frequency as the fan was we may have a winner. Then I could ramp the pump up and down to help with bleeding using PWM.

Let me know if you want the code.


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys. Coming in with a few questions today. The first one is going to be very hard to answer, if at all possible. I currently have a GTX 980 and an i7-5820K, both on stock clocks in my build. Both are being cooled buy a single EK PE 240 radiator. The PE is a bit difficulty to fit into my case, given it's size. How much of a temperature difference would I see with a single SE 240 radiator? My current temps, last I checked, maxed out at here.



It'd be nice to fit the smaller radiator and maybe have some additional room for the tubing inside the case.

Secondly, I'm looking to get an extender to help reduce a tubing run in my build for two reasons. The first being, it makes putting in a radiator difficult, as you need to apply pressure on the graphics card to get the radiator passed it. Secondly, to neaten up the case. The picture is off, but I'll do some squiqles on it in MS Paint to try and clarify what I'd like done.



So firstly, the picture isn't accurate to how my loop is actually configured, otherwise it obviously wouldn't work. The inlet on the GPU that is on the bottom in the photo, is actually moved over to the right side inlet. That's where liquid enters my PC from currently. Basically, since the 90 degree fittings have an "installed height of 28mm," I was going to use a 30mm extender to come out the GPU on the left side, but go down lower than the inlet from the pump. This would let me get rid of that loop in the far back left side of the case, and ease up some strain on the case a bit. I believe it should all fit, though it might be a bit difficult to get it all in and done.

Next, is the yellow circle. I'm thinking of adding a second 45 degree fitting, just to help with that one tubing run.

Third, is the puple circle up at the top left. Basically when I need to drain the loop, I place the case upside at the edge of a table, and open up that port. It becomes a pretty low-part in the system at that orientation, or rather the lowest part. Do you guys think there's a better way to drain it, or just keep that method?

Also, I've been considering a pair of Quick Disconnects for the system to use with the radiator. But sadly, I don't know which brands are good, and I don't even know if I could make any fit given my space constraints. They set I've got my eyes on are the Koolance QD3, with compression fittings for 10mm/16mm.

Lastly, Instead of using an extender, would I be able to use a 2x 45 degree fitting? Are those tall enough to pass the regular 90 degree fittings? They seem to be.


----------



## Ceadderman

Pretty slick idea Reb.









~Ceadder


----------



## Touge180SX

@akira749, you probably can't say anything but any hints on what non-reference blocks will come out first for the new GTX 1080? Looking for an Asus model to go with my Formula VIII but was hoping you have some hints in regards to release times? Thanks!


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys. Coming in with a few questions today. The first one is going to be very hard to answer, if at all possible. I currently have a GTX 980 and an i7-5820K, both on stock clocks in my build. Both are being cooled buy a single EK PE 240 radiator. The PE is a bit difficulty to fit into my case, given it's size. How much of a temperature difference would I see with a single SE 240 radiator? My current temps, last I checked, maxed out at here.
> 
> 
> 
> It'd be nice to fit the smaller radiator and maybe have some additional room for the tubing inside the case.
> 
> Secondly, I'm looking to get an extender to help reduce a tubing run in my build for two reasons. The first being, it makes putting in a radiator difficult, as you need to apply pressure on the graphics card to get the radiator passed it. Secondly, to neaten up the case. The picture is off, but I'll do some squiqles on it in MS Paint to try and clarify what I'd like done.
> 
> 
> 
> So firstly, the picture isn't accurate to how my loop is actually configured, otherwise it obviously wouldn't work. The inlet on the GPU that is on the bottom in the photo, is actually moved over to the right side inlet. That's where liquid enters my PC from currently. Basically, since the 90 degree fittings have an "installed height of 28mm," I was going to use a 30mm extender to come out the GPU on the left side, but go down lower than the inlet from the pump. This would let me get rid of that loop in the far back left side of the case, and ease up some strain on the case a bit. I believe it should all fit, though it might be a bit difficult to get it all in and done.
> 
> Next, is the yellow circle. I'm thinking of adding a second 45 degree fitting, just to help with that one tubing run.
> 
> Third, is the puple circle up at the top left. Basically when I need to drain the loop, I place the case upside at the edge of a table, and open up that port. It becomes a pretty low-part in the system at that orientation, or rather the lowest part. Do you guys think there's a better way to drain it, or just keep that method?
> 
> Also, I've been considering a pair of Quick Disconnects for the system to use with the radiator. But sadly, I don't know which brands are good, and I don't even know if I could make any fit given my space constraints. They set I've got my eyes on are the Koolance QD3, with compression fittings for 10mm/16mm.
> 
> Lastly, Instead of using an extender, would I be able to use a 2x 45 degree fitting? Are those tall enough to pass the regular 90 degree fittings? They seem to be.


Actually, I don't think I have enough room to do what I was planning... I believe I only have about 47-50mm of room between the GPU inlets on the underside and the case floor. Basically two PCI slots.


----------



## stanneveld

Old school
.
Rampage Extreme III
I7 920 + EK Supreme HF (with easy mount kit) Copper/Plexi
4x GTX580 + EK FC-580GTX+ Copper/Accetal
Lian Li PC-D600
Found all kind of old stuff i think better use it for something








(still need to mount the 4th block on the GTX 580 but need to take it out of the box first..







)



I use all nickel now, but back in them day's the nickel was eh you know


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanneveld*
> 
> Old school
> .
> Rampage Extreme III
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I7 920 + EK Supreme HF (with easy mount kit) Copper/Plexi
> 4x GTX580 + EK FC-580GTX+ Copper/Accetal
> Lian Li PC-D600
> Found all kind of old stuff i think better use it for something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (still need to mount the 4th block on the GTX 580 but need to take it out of the box first..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> I use all nickel now, but back in them day's the nickel was eh you know

















for the RIIIE

Now you gotta find a mobo block for it


----------



## RebelHell

So I just got a box in the mail today...


Looking forward to starting on this.

In other news, EK is apparently not the only one with bad finishes on fittings. The Bitspower fittings I ordered are all the same color but the logo printing is very prominent on some and barely visible on others.

The one on the left is missing the dots. (Color difference is only lighting, they are the same color)


You can see the logo is VERY faint on five of these 90's.

Is this just a common quality issue among all manufacturers?


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> So I just got a box in the mail today...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to starting on this.
> 
> In other news, EK is apparently not the only one with bad finishes on fittings. The Bitspower fittings I ordered are all the same color but the logo printing is very prominent on some and barely visible on others.
> 
> The one on the left is missing the dots. (Color difference is only lighting, they are the same color)
> 
> 
> You can see the logo is VERY faint on five of these 90's.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this just a common quality issue among all manufacturers?


I consider the diminished logo on Bitspower fittings a positive rather than negative







Seeing that dragon 100 times in a single build bothers me. That's a really nice finish, though!


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> I consider the diminished logo on Bitspower fittings a positive rather than negative
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that dragon 100 times in a single build bothers me. That's a really nice finish, though!


I agree with you there but if I have no other choice I'd rather they match. Might just try to keep the ones with a diminished logo in the visible part of the build. I probably ordered too many anyway. It's just sad that we can't get quality fittings for the ridiculous price we pay.


----------



## Thoth420

I wish my fittings came like that.....rather it have no markings at all but from what I was told Bitspower makes the best fittings....pretty sure everything else in the build is EK cept my fittings.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> I agree with you there but if I have no other choice I'd rather they match. Might just try to keep the ones with a diminished logo in the visible part of the build. I probably ordered too many anyway. It's just sad that we can't get quality fittings for the ridiculous price we pay.


I hear you, it seems like there's a lot of this going around lately. Hopefully it gets resolved because, like you said, this stuff isn't cheap!


----------



## Cyber2191

Hey all new to the forum and to watercooling

I was thinking about getting one of the ekwb kits, and more specifically was looking at the xtreme kit. I know the rad that it comes with is 60mm thick, and I know i could mount it as an intake but I personally would rather have it on top, but it is a massive rad. So my question is, anyone with the thermaltake core v51 case have you used the ekwb xtreme kits or any for that matter, and is a 60mm rad going to fit on the top with fans attached. Pictures are always nice if you have any by the way lol

But yeah I just built my first computer this past February and it was a success and am very happy with it (just waiting on these new nvidia gpus to release lol, and hardware wise it will be a complete computer), now I'm interested in custom loops, so any tips tricks whatever, always willing to learn from people more experienced


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber2191*
> 
> Hey all new to the forum and to watercooling
> 
> I was thinking about getting one of the ekwb kits, and more specifically was looking at the xtreme kit. I know the rad that it comes with is 60mm thick, and I know i could mount it as an intake but I personally would rather have it on top, but it is a massive rad. So my question is, anyone with the thermaltake core v51 case have you used the ekwb xtreme kits or any for that matter, and is a 60mm rad going to fit on the top with fans attached. Pictures are always nice if you have any by the way lol
> 
> But yeah I just built my first computer this past February and it was a success and am very happy with it (just waiting on these new nvidia gpus to release lol, and hardware wise it will be a complete computer), now I'm interested in custom loops, so any tips tricks whatever, always willing to learn from people more experienced


EK has a blog they post quite often with plenty of info for newcomers. I would give those a read...I didn't have the time or confidence for my loop so had it done for me. Meanwhile, I was (and continue) reading as much as possible so the next one I feel confident to try myself.

You could start with the Predator and slowly expand as needed as an alternative option to a kit. That said I hear essentially nothing but great things about the kits!


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I dont see a point in buying predator if kits are just a bit more expensive.


----------



## Cyber2191

Yeah i've been doing some measurements so as of right now I'm looking at the ekwb p360 kit, (probably just gonna buy parts myself, kinda like the look of the extreme kits pump/reservoir combo better, but just get the 40mm thick rad, cause I know the extreme kits rad is going to be way to big.)

I want to be able to expand to a gpu block if feel so inclined lol and also keep my optical drive.

The only question I have now is (even though i feel like it will fit) if i put a 360 rad (40mm thick) and just do push config on the top of my chassis will my optical drive fit in the lower slot, i did measurements and i think it will, but was just curious if anyone has had any experience with that

o0o I have a Thermaltake core v51 if you didnt read my previous post.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I dont see a point in buying predator if kits are just a bit more expensive.


There are a few advantages to the Predator:

Its more compact, with the pump and res integrated into the rad.
Its faster to install, considering its pre-assembled and pre-filled with pre-filled QDC GPU blocks available.
Less intimidating for newcomers that aren't quite ready to jump into a full custom loop, but might want to in the future.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> There are a few advantages to the Predator:
> 
> Its more compact, with the pump and res integrated into the rad.
> Its faster to install, considering its pre-assembled and pre-filled with pre-filled QDC GPU blocks available.
> *Less intimidating for newcomers* that aren't quite ready to jump into a full custom loop, but might want to in the future.


Right There. I know when I was piecing together a loop (My First) I was a tad nervous, actually extremely nervous.

TCO


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Right There. I know when I was piecing together a loop (My First) I was a tad nervous, actually extremely nervous.
> 
> TCO


Indeed, can't say I wasn't nervous when I installed my first loop.

Even though I was quite confident in my skill set and did all the research trough and trough. The fact I was installing a water filled loop onto my hard earned components, with the potential of things going wrong if I messed up, did get me a little nervous.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Indeed, can't say I wasn't nervous when I installed my first loop.
> 
> Even though I was quite confident in my skill set and did all the research trough and trough. *The fact I was installing a water filled loop onto my hard earned components, with the potential of things going wrong if I messed up*, *did get me a little nervous*.


As well as it should









TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm one of the rare breed then. Cause I really wasn't worried since I did a lot of research and have experience with plumbing.









~Ceadder


----------



## nzphil

I was super nervous. I still am every time I pull my loop apart and ive been doing this for 4+ years now lol.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> There are a few advantages to the Predator:
> 
> Its more compact, with the pump and res integrated into the rad.
> Its faster to install, considering its pre-assembled and pre-filled with pre-filled QDC GPU blocks available.
> Less intimidating for newcomers that aren't quite ready to jump into a full custom loop, but might want to in the future.


Pretty much what I was thinking (and I am a newcomer to water cooling).


----------



## jvidia

Is there any EK block compatible with the socket 1366?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Is there any EK block compatible with the socket 1366?


Here you go. This is a list for the Supremacy EVO

https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/waterblock/3831109800119

TCO


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Is there any EK block compatible with the socket 1366?


Use the configurator on their website. The Supremacy EVO blocks are compatible.


----------



## RebelHell

Beat me to it by 14 seconds TCO!!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Beat me to it by 14 seconds TCO!!












I was in the area...

TCO


----------



## jvidia

Thank you!


----------



## jvidia

Hi friends!

I'm thinking to buy an EK-Supremacy EVO water block for my good old 1366 system and have a few questions for you.

1) I now have an old Apogee GTZ ... do you think there will be a noticeable performance gain going to an EK-Supremacy EVO?

2) I'm going to use only distilled water + Mayhems Biocide Extreme. Is there any problem using biocide with the EK water blocks?

3) which metal do you recomend for the base, copper or nickel?

Thanks,


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Hi friends!
> 
> I'm thinking to buy an EK-Supremacy EVO water block for my good old 1366 system and have a few questions for you.
> 
> 1) I now have an old Apogee GTZ ... do you think there will be a noticeable performance gain going to an EK-Supremacy EVO?


The EK-Supremacy EVO walks all over the newer Apogee XL, I can't imagine you not noticing an improvement over the old GTZ.
Quote:


> 2) I'm going to use only distilled water + Mayhems Biocide Extreme. Is there any problem using biocide with the EK water blocks?


You'll be fine with just biocide and distilled water.
Quote:


> 3) which metal do you recomend for the base, copper or nickel?


They are both copper. One is just nickle plated for aesthetics. You won't see much if any performance difference between the two.


----------



## jvidia

Thank you









I think I will go for a new block as I will remake my loop very soon.

I'm divided between the acetal and the full nickel tops









I love the looks of the full nickel, but will not that shinny top turn ugly with oxidation over time?

I ask this because my old Koolance fittings were nickel finished and become very oxidated on the outside!


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I will go for a new block as I will remake my loop very soon.
> 
> I'm divided between the acetal and the full nickel tops
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love the looks of the full nickel, but will not that shinny top turn ugly with oxidation over time?
> 
> I ask this because my old Koolance fittings were nickel finished and become very oxidated on the outside!


I don't have that much experience with them. I will say that I got a used nickle GPU block off fleaBay and it's still shiny like new.


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> I don't have that much experience with them. I will say that I got a used nickle GPU block off fleaBay and it's still shiny like new.


EK one?


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> EK one?


Yes, it's an EK FC780 GTX Ti - Acetal+Nickle


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I will go for a new block as I will remake my loop very soon.
> 
> I'm divided between the acetal and the full nickel tops
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love the looks of the full nickel, but will not that shinny top turn ugly with oxidation over time?
> 
> I ask this because my old Koolance fittings were nickel finished and become very oxidated on the outside!


It would polish up in a second. No need to worry about it becoming something you cannot fix.

TCO


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I will go for a new block as I will remake my loop very soon.
> 
> I'm divided between the acetal and the full nickel tops
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love the looks of the full nickel, but will not that shinny top turn ugly with oxidation over time?
> 
> I ask this because my old Koolance fittings were nickel finished and become very oxidated on the outside!


The threads will be a lot stronger with the metal top. I personally never liked tightening things made of a plastic type material, always worried about stripping threads. I guess copper is a soft metal but definitely stronger than acetal.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> The threads will be a lot stronger with the metal top. I personally never liked tightening things made of a plastic type material, always worried about stripping threads. I guess copper is a soft metal but definitely stronger than acetal.


Fittings need only be hand tight, taking a wrench to them could induce cracking but I have yet to fracture an acetal or plexi top.

TCO


----------



## outofmyheadyo

As I always say, tighten until it cracks and then half a turn back


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Fittings need only be hand tight, taking a wrench to them could induce cracking but I have yet to fracture an acetal or plexi top.
> 
> TCO


Well EK had to revise the MX acetal block because the thread walls were to thin which lead to cracks. I know because it happened to me, only hand tight.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Are they all good now, or is it better to go with a nickel/copper plated brass block instead of acetal or plexi?


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Are they all good now, or is it better to go with a nickel/copper plated brass block instead of acetal or plexi?


Yeah they are fine now. The EVO blocks are solid and the MX ones are a webbed casting.


----------



## jvidia

Plexi tops .... for me is a no go because I don't like the looks of it (looks cheap "pimp" transparent plastic







) and it's the weakest of all materials available.

Acetal tops, looks less plastic and more discrete. Advantages over metal top is that is less prone to scratches and time won't change how it looks from day 1 ... disadvantages weak threads.

Metal tops ... the way around ... stronger threads but can scratch easily and oxidation can appear over time altering the looks of it.

Metal tops might dissipate heat a little more because we end having more metal in contact with water (it's logic but seems irrelevant that difference).

Metal tops costs more and that difference is not small. Does it worth it???









At the moment I'd divided .... between acetal / nickel top for an EK-Supremacy EVO


----------



## Costas

Lets face it - Most people tend to choose their blocks for looks as a first priority and then the material choice becomes a secondary consideration.

Metal for my CPU (only because it looks the best in my build) and acetal for my GPU's.


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing new Slim Series kits


----------



## Cyber2191

so has anyone had any issues with the p360 kit, think thats what I'm gonna start with (as far as getting into water cooling)


----------



## Ceadderman

Why EK should consider making Thermosphere compatible heatsinks for GPU...



Sooooooo smexy.









I went this way because I hate the look of all the little heatsinks and their weakaz Thermal strips. The heatsinks also give the GPU stability to help keep cards from sagging. Similar to the stock heatsink and cover.









If EK made these they *would* sell.









~Ceadder


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber2191*
> 
> so has anyone had any issues with the p360 kit, think thats what I'm gonna start with (as far as getting into water cooling)


I sort of originally thought I would go with that Kit but later decided I would need lot of extras so think i'm just going order all the separate parts.

PS Building my first loop as well.


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Lets face it - Most people tend to choose their blocks for looks as a first priority and then the material choice becomes a secondary consideration.
> 
> Metal for my CPU (only because it looks the best in my build) and acetal for my GPU's.


I already have the EK-ACF Black fittings + Primochill Black tube.

Do you thing they will look better on witch top?


----------



## nyk20z3

Full EK Build -


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing new Slim Series kits


I wish I wasn't already infected with the full custom loop virus, because that 240 SKit is almost calling my name.


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Full EK Build -


EK tube?


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> EK tube?


Yes the EK zmt tubing.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> I already have the EK-ACF Black fittings + Primochill Black tube.
> 
> Do you thing they will look better on witch top?


Hard to say as it is very much a personal preference thing however with all the other components being dark/black you may want to highlight the block by choosing nickel (or even plexi with backlighting) than opting to hide it by choosing say black acetal.


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why EK should consider making Thermosphere compatible heatsinks for GPU...


Are they anywhere up for sale? I might need one


----------



## Ceadderman

Swiftech actually stopped manufacturing them. I have 6870 cards and PPCs actually have them in stock for my Cards. I picked mine up a year and a half ago and they still have them in stock. Alot of people buy FC Blocks but there are a crapton of us who don't wish to by a block every time we upgrade our GPU.









I'm not sure why Swiftech stopped making them though. I would try them to see if they made one for that card. I will say though that a CNC mill on standby would be necessary.









Which is why EK needs to pick up this slack left by the void created by Swiftech.









~Ceadder


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Swiftech actually stopped manufacturing them. I have 6870 cards and PPCs actually have them in stock for my Cards. I picked mine up a year and a half ago and they still have them in stock. Alot of people buy FC Blocks but there are a crapton of us who don't wish to by a block every time we upgrade our GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why Swiftech stopped making them though. I would try them to see if they made one for that card. I will say though that a CNC mill on standby would be necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which is why EK needs to pick up this slack left by the void created by Swiftech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


There are still some listed on their site, but only for the older gpu's they had previously made blocks for:
http://www.swiftech.com/gpu_heatsinks.aspx
As you mentioned, it looks like they stopped making them.


----------



## Mega Man

or... you could buy real blocks * joking with you ceader *


----------



## wermad

Can's I's join's?



2 down, 2 incoming, need 2 more bp's. Then i need four....









May get a Supremacy or Evo (or HK IV Pro







) if one shows up used.

(queue MegaMan and his Amd passion




























)


----------



## andrej124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber2191*
> 
> so has anyone had any issues with the p360 kit, think thats what I'm gonna start with (as far as getting into water cooling)


Hi Cyber!

P360 is an excellent choice. You will get the most popular liquid cooling components and also the best ones









Do you have any plans to cool your GPU also? All you have to do is add a GPU water block and two extra fittings


----------



## jvidia

I'm deeper in this club now with the order of an Supremacy EVO Acetal+Nickel ?


----------



## akira749

EK releases monoblock for ASUS SABERTOOTH Z170 S motherboard!

It's too gorgeous!!! I need to get one!!!


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases monoblock for ASUS SABERTOOTH Z170 S motherboard!
> 
> It's too gorgeous!!! I need to get one!!!


Just take one from inventory saying it needs further "testing".....


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> Just take one from inventory saying it needs further "testing".....


I wish it would worked like this


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> Hi Cyber!
> 
> P360 is an excellent choice. You will get the most popular liquid cooling components and also the best ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have any plans to cool your GPU also? All you have to do is add a GPU water block and two extra fittings


Only thing putting me off that kit is that I'm going need a second rad and pass through fittings and would like a drain so it's like why not just buy all the bits separate.

Bunch of 90 degree fittings


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I wish it would worked like this


I've got your back don't worry XD


----------



## ivoryg37

Does anyone know what material the jet plate in the EK waterblock is made of? I bought a brand new block and decided to use the jet plate for my 2011v3 but it has like one small brown spot and some browning on the edge that looks like rust.


----------



## wermad

Iirc, it should be stainless steel


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Does anyone know what material the jet plate in the EK waterblock is made of? I bought a brand new block and decided to use the jet plate for my 2011v3 but it has like one small brown spot and some browning on the edge that looks like rust.


I'd expect that what you see is a bit of discoloration from the heat of the laser cutter.


----------



## tiborrr12

Stainless steel. What you see is heat induced discoloration caused by laser cutter.


----------



## Mega Man

HAHAHAHA that is epic
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Does anyone know what material the jet plate in the EK waterblock is made of? I bought a brand new block and decided to use the jet plate for my 2011v3 but it has like one small brown spot and some browning on the edge that looks like rust.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd expect that what you see is a bit of discoloration from the heat of the laser cutter.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Stainless steel. What you see is heat induced discoloration caused by laser cutter.


----------



## ivoryg37

That's what I figured but better safe than sorry.







They had 4-5 spots on the plate itself and not on the edge so yeah


----------



## Boost240

I'm in! I'm crazy and just ordered the EK-P360! I don't even have a case yet. Just MB and CPU! It cost a pretty penny because of the Canadian dollar but I think it'll be worth it.


----------



## andrej124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Only thing putting me off that kit is that I'm going need a second rad and pass through fittings and would like a drain so it's like why not just buy all the bits separate.
> 
> Bunch of 90 degree fittings


What if I told you the % discount you get if you buy a kit vs. all the bits separately??


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> What if I told you the % discount you get if you buy a kit vs. all the bits separately??


Didn't realise there was a discount with the kits is it much?

I honestly thought they were just a job lot of parts you threw together that were all good quality to allow someone to build a custom loop. Without them struggling to figure out which parts they would need.

So your suggesting I get the kit and then just buy all the additional bits I need separately?

Assume the included pump can do Dual SLI and think another 360MM rad identical to one in kit would be enough.


----------



## andrej124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Didn't realise there was a discount with the kits is it much?
> 
> I honestly thought they were just a job lot of parts you threw together that were all good quality to allow someone to build a custom loop. Without them struggling to figure out which parts they would need.
> 
> So your suggesting I get the kit and then just buy all the additional bits I need separately?
> 
> Assume the included pump can do Dual SLI and think another 360MM rad identical to one in kit would be enough.


Yes! Buy the kit and other things separately.

D5 is strong enough for this, yes!


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Problem with the p360 kit is the tubing and fittings they include, the wall is so thin you cant do any tight bends with it


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Problem with the p360 kit is the tubing and fittings they include, the wall is so thin you cant do any tight bends with it


What are you trying to do?! I use 10/13mm and never had a problem


----------



## OwaN

Now that the GTX1080 has been revealed and reviewed, the wheels are turning in my head for a system upgrade. The question is, how much work will be involved in upgrading? I just wanted to ask around here, it may have been answered, but I haven't been able to find it. My system is hard line tubed with EK 290X blocks. Are EK blocks designed so that the ports are in the same place relative to the end of the card, or does it vary from block to block? In other words, can I drop in new GPU's without re-bending the tubing to/from the GPU blocks? Figure its a long shot, but it would be nice.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> Now that the GTX1080 has been revealed and reviewed, the wheels are turning in my head for a system upgrade. The question is, how much work will be involved in upgrading? I just wanted to ask around here, it may have been answered, but I haven't been able to find it. My system is hard line tubed with EK 290X blocks. Are EK blocks designed so that the ports are in the same place relative to the end of the card, or does it vary from block to block? In other words, can I drop in new GPU's without re-bending the tubing to/from the GPU blocks? Figure its a long shot, but it would be nice.


It's unlikely they'll be in exactly the same place. You'll probably have to bend a couple new tubes to compensate. They have to work around component location on the cards for that stuff. Especially switching from AMD to Nvidia. You might get lucky, but I wouldn't count on it.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> Now that the GTX1080 has been revealed and reviewed, the wheels are turning in my head for a system upgrade. The question is, how much work will be involved in upgrading? I just wanted to ask around here, it may have been answered, but I haven't been able to find it. My system is hard line tubed with EK 290X blocks. Are EK blocks designed so that the ports are in the same place relative to the end of the card, or does it vary from block to block? In other words, can I drop in new GPU's without re-bending the tubing to/from the GPU blocks? Figure its a long shot, but it would be nice.


It varies. I would say you have a 50/50 chance at best that it would even be close.


----------



## OwaN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> It's unlikely they'll be in exactly the same place. You'll probably have to bend a couple new tubes to compensate. They have to work around component location on the cards for that stuff. Especially switching from AMD to Nvidia. You might get lucky, but I wouldn't count on it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> It varies. I would say you have a 50/50 chance at best that it would even be close.


Figured that was the case, especially since I'm on AMD right now, but still worth investigating. The GPU bends were the biggest PITA ones to deal with, so if I had any chance of avoiding re-doing them it'd be great.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Kind of wish the kits could come with the full nickel blocks and ZMT tubing, but that's just me


----------



## Boost240

Hmm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Kind of wish the kits could come with the full nickel blocks and ZMT tubing, but that's just me


Hmm. I'm new to this. Is the tubing I'm getting with the kit no good? And the block?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boost240*
> 
> Hmm.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Kind of wish the kits could come with the full nickel blocks and ZMT tubing, but that's just me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm. I'm new to this. Is the tubing I'm getting with the kit no good? And the block?
Click to expand...

No they're really good. EK makes the best kits hands down imo. It's just that sometimes we would like a litte customization with them, but then that would defeat the purpose of the kit.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boost240*
> 
> Hmm.
> Hmm. I'm new to this. Is the tubing I'm getting with the kit no good? And the block?


Personal preference is all - I love the blacked out look EK's ZMT tubing has (but not everyone does, especially if they want to run coloured coolant), and as for the block I prefer the look that the full nickel block has due to the top being made out of nickel plated copper (versus the standard acrylic top), and I also like the acetal top more due to it having this almost "murdered out" (aka a lot of black) look to it. The fans included in the kits are rather nice as well, fitting in right around where most people will go with things anyways (1850rpm) where there's a nice balance between performance and noise.

When I eventually go watercooled with my rig I'll be running slightly higher specced fans (Vardar F4ER's) due to the fact that I run BOINC and [email protected] on a fairly regular basis (depending on the day, we're talking easily 20 hours a day), but hubby and I don't really mind the thought of a bit of extra noise. Of course, I could just add in three extra Vardar F3's to complement the kit and get a nice performance boost that way, so when I have the cash knowing me I'll take a look at the kits anyways, because why not check out all the various options.

Oh, and I lied - the L series kits come with ZMT tubing.


----------



## Mega Man

but the real question- do they come with beer !


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> but the real question- do they come with beer !


That would be a plus!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Thinking of snagging a Maximus VIII Formula board for the skylark build, took a peek at one we have in stock at the store


----------



## Boost240

I got my formula today. Sexy as hell.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Thinking of snagging a Maximus VIII Formula board for the skylark build, took a peek at one we have in stock at the store


I have the Formula and wouldn't use anything else, thing is beautiful!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Thinking of snagging a Maximus VIII Formula board for the skylark build, took a peek at one we have in stock at the store


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Thinking of snagging a Maximus VIII Formula board for the skylark build, took a peek at one we have in stock at the store
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Formula and wouldn't use anything else, thing is beautiful!
Click to expand...

It is a beauty, no doubt, . . .

But personally, I'd have to either step up to the Extreme for the plex chip, or go with a Hero Alpha.

It's just too expensive to not have 4 way GPU support, and nothing else really useful in return for the cost.

I guess with employee discount though, that could skew the perspective, but then again, you can buy the Extreme for what the rest uf us get the formula for.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

imo 2 things

if i spend that much money i expect socket 2011 !

and 2 they need to bring the built in block to ... pretty much their entire lineup ! 1151 or 2011 ...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It is a beauty, no doubt, . . .
> 
> But personally, I'd have to either step up to the Extreme for the plex chip, or go with a Hero Alpha.
> 
> It's just too expensive to not have 4 way GPU support, and nothing else really useful in return for the cost.
> 
> I guess with employee discount though, that could skew the perspective, but then again, you can buy the Extreme for what the rest uf us get the formula for.
> 
> Darlene


Unfortunately, M8E does not have a plx chip so no 4-way sli. You might be able to trigger 4-way crossfire, but I'm not 100% sure:


Quote:


> The big selling points for the Z170X-Gaming G1 are the PLX8747 chip enabling 32 PCIe lanes for 3-way and 4-way SLI, three Killer based network points for DoubleShot-X3 Pro, a combination air/water chipset heatsink, dual M.2, a USB 3.1 front panel, PCIe guards, and a Creative Sound Core 3D audio codec with a Burr Brown op-amp.
> 
> The big selling points for the Maximus VIII Extreme are the 3x3 Wi-Fi module, onboard U.2 support, a total of four onboard USB 3.1 ports, an ES9023P audio DAC, a bundled OC Panel, system performance and the BIOS/software package.
> 
> Both motherboards are validated with Thunderbolt 3.


http://www.anandtech.com/show/10206/the-asus-maximus-viii-extreme-review/9


----------



## akira749

EK releases new XRES liquid cooling pump reservoir combo!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It is a beauty, no doubt, . . .
> 
> But personally, I'd have to either step up to the Extreme for the plex chip, or go with a Hero Alpha.
> 
> It's just too expensive to not have 4 way GPU support, and nothing else really useful in return for the cost.
> 
> I guess with employee discount though, that could skew the perspective, but then again, you can buy the Extreme for what the rest uf us get the formula for.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, M8E does not have a plx chip so no 4-way sli. You might be able to trigger 4-way crossfire, but I'm not 100% sure:
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The big selling points for the Z170X-Gaming G1 are the PLX8747 chip enabling 32 PCIe lanes for 3-way and 4-way SLI, three Killer based network points for DoubleShot-X3 Pro, a combination air/water chipset heatsink, dual M.2, a USB 3.1 front panel, PCIe guards, and a Creative Sound Core 3D audio codec with a Burr Brown op-amp.
> 
> The big selling points for the Maximus VIII Extreme are the 3x3 Wi-Fi module, onboard U.2 support, a total of four onboard USB 3.1 ports, an ES9023P audio DAC, a bundled OC Panel, system performance and the BIOS/software package.
> 
> Both motherboards are validated with Thunderbolt 3.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/10206/the-asus-maximus-viii-extreme-review/9
Click to expand...

Aaaaaaa, dang Z170 with the extra lanes from the PCH changed up everything . .

Looks like the extreme is good with 3 GPUs on the CPU, but the Asus specs say:

Multi-GPU Support Supports NVIDIA® Quad-GPU SLI™ Technology
Supports AMD 4-Way CrossFireX Technology

So it may run the 4th card from the PCH lanes . . x8, x4, x4, x4

No doubt better to go X99 for quads, for sure . . .

Thanks for the info werrm, +1


----------



## VSG

Nvidia needs a min of x8 I thought?


----------



## Mega Man

only to be certfied


----------



## cmpxchg8b

x8 is min requirement for SLI. An artificial limitation, really, IMO. So if you care to have SLI on, x8 is a must. If not, anything down to x1 will work.


----------



## Barefooter

The marketing on the Asus Extreme VIII board says it supports quad SLI, but it has no plx chip like the Extreme VI has.

Yes it will do quad SLI... if you run a pair of GTX 690s or Titan X cards


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Aaaaaaa, dang Z170 with the extra lanes from the PCH changed up everything . .
> 
> Looks like the extreme is good with 3 GPUs on the CPU, but the Asus specs say:
> 
> Multi-GPU Support Supports NVIDIA® Quad-GPU SLI™ Technology
> Supports AMD 4-Way CrossFireX Technology
> 
> So it may run the 4th card from the PCH lanes . . x8, x4, x4, x4
> 
> No doubt better to go X99 for quads, for sure . . .
> 
> Thanks for the info werrm, +1


Thats the old marketing cliche when a user is running two dual core cards in quad-sli. Ie 2x Gtx 690s or 2x Titan Zs, or 2x GTx 590s. By our terminology, its no 4-way sli (four discrete cards). Samething happened with the R3E x58.

I have the G1 and it does run 4-way with the plx.

With x99, the 5820k wont work so youll have to step up to the 5930k btw.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nvidia needs a min of x8 I thought?


Yup, last i heard this is true. Amd does allow 4x 3.0 (equivalent to 8x 2.0)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> x8 is min requirement for SLI. An artificial limitation, really, IMO. So if you care to have SLI on, x8 is a must. If not, anything down to x1 will work.


Qft









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> only to be certfied


Yup








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> The marketing on the Asus Extreme VIII board says it supports quad SLI, but it has no plx chip like the Extreme VI has.
> 
> Yes it will do quad SLI... if you run a pair of GTX 690s or Titan X cards


Yuppers, marketing gimicks with broad words.


----------



## wermad

Sorry for the double post









I got my two last blocks and I'm missing their o-rings. The bridge came with a pair, but I'm still short two more. I can't find them on ppcs.com, anywhere else I can find them?

edit: nm, ppcs.com has but only one (I need four). Found them on ekwb.com as well and surprisingly, shipping is reasonable


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> The marketing on the Asus Extreme VIII board says it supports quad SLI, but it has no plx chip like the Extreme VI has.
> 
> Yes it will do quad SLI... if you run a pair of GTX 690s or Titan X cards


Actually Quad SLI has always meant two dual-GPU cards. 4-way SLI is for 4-card setups. You could see quad-sli supported on some older boards with only two PCIe slots.


----------



## d0mmie

Hey folks.

I'm planning on building a PC in a Bitfenix Prodigy M case with water cooled components, and I'm a bit on the fence about if I should get a EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite combo unit or a EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM combo unit. Now let me explain...

I know the D5 is the best pump in both terms of performance and noise levels, however I did own an EKWB XLC Predator 360 for a short period of time and I was extremely impressed with the pump noise from the included DDC pump on the AIO. I could not hear it, even with my case open. But I'm not sure if this pump on the Predator is the same, or if it will produce more noise. My issue here is that the D5 combo unit will be difficult to install properly in my case unless I remove a 140mm fan which I'm not particular happy about, and the fact it has no drain port (which the DDC combo unit does have).

The components being cooled are an i7 5930K and a GTX 1080 FE with a 240x30mm radiator. So not an excessive amount of pressure needed to cool that and the TDP seems manageable to me.

Thoughts?


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> ... I'm a bit on the fence about if I should get a EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite combo unit or a EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM combo unit.


The D5 and the DDC are both excellent pumps. The DDC can get a bit noisy at higher speeds but as long as you control the speed of the pump you shouldn't have any issues. Everyone loves the D5 but the DDC won't let you down either.


----------



## Mega Man

I almost exclusively use ddcs. Personal preferences that is all


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I almost exclusively use ddcs. Personal preferences that is all


How do you find the pump noise at its lowest RPM? Can you hear it, and if not are your fans deafening the noise at a reasonable low rpm?


----------



## Mega Man

not at all. i can hear THEM ( i generally use 4 per build ) at max and maybe around 75 % and above.

i have overkill though ( my builds have at least 40 fans per

if you are looking for total silence use d5s space ddcs anything between either should be fine. but remember sound is subjective

i do have some builds with some ap15s ( ~ 7-8 fans total ) in them NO i can not hear the pump ( i use an aquaero to control fans and pumps off of air-water delta so neither my fans nor my pump ramps/revs quickly


----------



## FXformat

New build, waiting for the GPU from ebay now...going clear this time instead of pastel white ice...and i rigged a couple of LEDs for the res, wish EK would just integrate LEDs into their res so i don't have to do the dirty work..



16mm acrylic tubing and bitspower chromed fittings.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> New build, waiting for the GPU from ebay now...going clear this time instead of pastel white ice...and i rigged a couple of LEDs for the res, wish EK would just integrate LEDs into their res so i don't have to do the dirty work..
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 16mm acrylic tubing and bitspower chromed fittings.


Looks great!

----

So, I've pretty much finished the watercooling portion of my build. I've re-routed some tube work, added some quick disconnects. (Koolance QD3's, since EK doesn't seem interested in making quick disconnects.







). I've changed from the PE 240 radiator to the SE 240 radiator. Also, not entirely related, but more so for the build in general, I've changed to 32GB of RAM. So, it's pretty much done. Just waiting for Broadwell-E.







Enjoy


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Looks great!
> 
> ----
> 
> So, I've pretty much finished the watercooling portion of my build. I've re-routed some tube work, added some quick disconnects. (Koolance QD3's, since EK doesn't seem interested in making quick disconnects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I've changed from the PE 240 radiator to the SE 240 radiator. Also, not entirely related, but more so for the build in general, I've changed to 32GB of RAM. So, it's pretty much done. Just waiting for Broadwell-E.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy


Don't know how you managed to cram all of that into that tiny case, but well done. What are temps like in a set up like that? I have a PE 360, was looking for the SE but Microcenter only stocks the PE


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Don't know how you managed to cram all of that into that tiny case, but well done. What are temps like in a set up like that? I have a PE 360, was looking for the SE but Microcenter only stocks the PE


Thanks!
I had a thicker radiator in there before too. I just recently switched from a PE 240.









So,in AIDA64, my CPU maxed out around 53°C. During demanding games, like Doom, Battlefield 4, or say The Division at max settings in 3,440 x 1,440 my temperatures don't get any warmer than 55°C on the CPU and about 50°C on the GPU. I have seen it dip a few degrees higher, but that was after about three and a half hours and my room temperature was about 3-4°F higher than normal.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> I threw together a simple circuit with a potentiometer for my control, a simple program to read the analog value from the POT and convert to a PWM signal on the output pins. Tested it on an old PWM fan and it worked perfectly! Haven't tested on the pump yet. If it is as lenient about the PWM frequency as the fan was we may have a winner. Then I could ramp the pump up and down to help with bleeding using PWM.
> 
> Let me know if you want the code.


Okay, this is now confirmed. I just started bleeding my loop and PWM from an Arduino can control the EK D5 perfectly. Make sure you power the Arduino from the same PSU that you power the pump. The PWM signal has to be on the same ground. Conveniently there is 5V there for you to use already!


----------



## RebelHell

12 hours in and no leaks yet. Still waiting on my fan controller so i can't finish wiring it up until tomorrow. Probably just let the pump run until then.

And i can't upload pictures today for some reason...


----------



## andrej124

We are officially announcing the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Full-Cover water blocks!








Four different variations for every taste, with beautifully machined details and distinctive EK design. Read the official press release for all the availability details and pricing: https://goo.gl/Aow2dY

EK-FC1080 GTX



EK-FC1080 GTX - Acetal



EK-FC1080 GTX - Nickel



EK-FC1080 GTX - Acetal+Nickel


----------



## RebelHell

While I'm definitely excited about the 1080, i think I'm gonna wait for the ti version. My 780ti is serving me just fine for now. And when i do upgrade it'll be for 4k which means a new monitor as well. I think the 1080 still struggles a bit there. Hoping the ti will have better results.


----------



## akira749

EK unveils new NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 water blocks


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> While I'm definitely excited about the 1080, i think I'm gonna wait for the ti version. My 780ti is serving me just fine for now. And when i do upgrade it'll be for 4k which means a new monitor as well. I think the 1080 still struggles a bit there. Hoping the ti will have better results.


I too want to upgrade from a 780Ti to a 1080 for 4K and VR.

But the Ti edition is gonna be a whole 'nother year based on the way the 700 and 900 series gens have been rolled out. I don't think I can wait that long.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> I too want to upgrade from a 780Ti to a 1080 for 4K and VR.
> 
> But the Ti edition is gonna be a whole 'nother year based on the way the 700 and 900 series gens have been rolled out. I don't think I can wait that long.


I figure it'll be at least a year before there's anything to play on VR aside from tech demos. And it's going to take me some time to save up that kind of money. $800 for a G-Sync 4K display, $600 for an Oculus, $700?? (Plus water block) for the 1080 ti. I just hope i can pull it off in a year.


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> I figure it'll be at least a year before there's anything to play on VR aside from tech demos. And it's going to take me some time to save up that kind of money. $800 for a G-Sync 4K display, $600 for an Oculus, $700?? (Plus water block) for the 1080 ti. I just hope i can pull it off in a year.


I'm figuring I'll get round it by having dual 1080's in SLI. Not perfect, but I think quite a few of the games I indulge in will run and scale in SLI. Plus being watercooled I can overclock them and free up more power that way too.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> I'm figuring I'll get round it by having dual 1080's in SLI. Not perfect, but I think quite a few of the games I indulge in will run and scale in SLI. Plus being watercooled I can overclock them and free up more power that way too.


I just finished (almost) "indulging" in my custom water loop. It's an expensive hobby to keep up with.


----------



## Trito

Can we expect price fall for GTX 970 blocks in EKWB store as the new generation is out or do they just transition to the new one and make the old one EOL without any discounts?


----------



## DarthBaggins

More than likely just EOL without discount till quantities lessen. Remember there are plenty of 900 series cards still on the market at retailers, and the 1070 is yet to be released for another month. I can see when the 1070 is released then we will see another drop in the 970's prices much like we are about to see a good fit on the 980's. Plus the 980ti is still a great GPU over-all


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> More than likely just EOL without discount till quantities lessen. Remember there are plenty of 900 series cards still on the market at retailers, and the 1070 is yet to be released for another month. I can see when the 1070 is released then we will see another drop in the 970's prices much like we are about to see a good fit on the 980's. Plus the 980ti is still a great GPU over-all


I see. Makes sense I guess. Thanks for the info


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> We are officially announcing the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Full-Cover water blocks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four different variations for every taste, with beautifully machined details and distinctive EK design. Read the official press release for all the availability details and pricing: https://goo.gl/Aow2dY
> 
> EK-FC1080 GTX
> 
> 
> 
> EK-FC1080 GTX - Acetal
> 
> 
> 
> EK-FC1080 GTX - Nickel
> 
> 
> 
> EK-FC1080 GTX - Acetal+Nickel


Very nice to see they will be available for launch day good job.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Also it's good to see the acrylic fully cover the pcb rather than stopping short


----------



## akira749

I was finally able to finish my Eclipse build! I encounter such a big amount of issues with that build but i'm glad it's finally done!















A few more pictures in my build log


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I was finally able to finish my Eclipse build! I encounter such a big amount of issues with that build but i'm glad it's finally done!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more pictures in my build log


That is stunning!!!!!!! Awesome job.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Guys please use spoilers for quoting pictures! Lovely build @akira749


----------



## outofmyheadyo

How long does it usually take for the AIB custom cards to get some blocks from EK, getting blocks for reference cards at launch is nice, but sadly not interested in ref cards at all, most likely a month or so ?


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Guys please use spoilers for quoting pictures! Lovely build @akira749


Oops sorry post from my phone I'll try and fix it.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> That is stunning!!!!!!! Awesome job.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Lovely build @akira749


Thanks guys!!!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> How long does it usually take for the AIB custom cards to get some blocks from EK, getting blocks for reference cards at launch is nice, but sadly not interested in ref cards at all, most likely a month or so ?


It depends on when we receive the CAD design and/or the PCB samples.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I was finally able to finish my Eclipse build! I encounter such a big amount of issues with that build but i'm glad it's finally done!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more pictures in my build log


Yet another beautiful build that makes mine look like amateur hour.


----------



## snef

some final pics of Tenebrae: The Division


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some final pics of Tenebrae: The Division
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


A completed build by Akira and Snef in the same day!!! Looks great, really nice work with the paint.


----------



## DarthBaggins

@snef what case is that?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> @snef what case is that?


Bitfenix Pandora I believe

TCO


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> @snef what case is that?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Bitfenix Pandora I believe
> 
> TCO


yes , Bitfenix Pandora ATX Core


----------



## jvidia

Where can I get those pieces of plastic managing the vga cables??
How do I find them? How do I search?

I want some for my 24 pin power cable that is sleeved but not managed like that !


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I was finally able to finish my Eclipse build! I encounter such a big amount of issues with that build but i'm glad it's finally done!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more pictures in my build log


Just had another look in the build log.
Nice to see it done, very classy build.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Where can I get those pieces of plastic managing the vga cables??
> How do I find them? How do I search?
> 
> I want some for my 24 pin power cable that is sleeved but not managed like that !


Cable combs

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Cable+combs


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Cable combs
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Cable+combs


Those are lovely









Any Europe site?

Can I find this on Ebay?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Cable combs
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Cable+combs
> 
> 
> 
> Those are lovely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any Europe site?
> 
> Can I find this on Ebay?
Click to expand...

Icemodz.com


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Those are lovely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any Europe site?
> 
> Can I find this on Ebay?


e22.biz


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Just had another look in the build log.
> Nice to see it done, very classy build.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> We are officially announcing the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Full-Cover water blocks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four different variations for every taste, with beautifully machined details and distinctive EK design. Read the official press release for all the availability details and pricing: https://goo.gl/Aow2dY
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> EK-FC1080 GTX
> 
> 
> 
> EK-FC1080 GTX - Acetal
> 
> 
> 
> EK-FC1080 GTX - Nickel
> 
> 
> 
> EK-FC1080 GTX - Acetal+Nickel


glad to see the all copper blocks!!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> We are officially announcing the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Full-Cover water blocks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four different variations for every taste, with beautifully machined details and distinctive EK design. Read the official press release for all the availability details and pricing: https://goo.gl/Aow2dY
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> EK-FC1080 GTX
> 
> 
> 
> EK-FC1080 GTX - Acetal
> 
> 
> 
> EK-FC1080 GTX - Nickel
> 
> 
> 
> EK-FC1080 GTX - Acetal+Nickel


For the record, the full cover acrylic top you do for cards is bad ass! I love my EVGA 970 that has a block similar in design for the 1080 because the full cover acrylic top looks sexy!


----------



## JRS2K

Hey guys, quick question.
I'm in the process of planning my loop, and I recently picked up a D5 REVO pump. I also picked up a 250mm Res and was wondering about how to mount it to the pump.
Do any of you know if EK sells the part below separate?


What are other options?
I really would like to stay away from connecting the pump and res via tubing.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JRS2K*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question.
> I'm in the process of planning my loop, and I recently picked up a D5 REVO pump. I also picked up a 250mm Res and was wondering about how to mount it to the pump.
> Do any of you know if EK sells the part below separate?
> 
> 
> What are other options?
> I really would like to stay away from connecting the pump and res via tubing.


Don't think so, you would probably have to buy the unit and then swap the tubes for the one you want. You could also just as easily use a simple male to male extender to fit it.

Sort of like this:


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JRS2K*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question.
> I'm in the process of planning my loop, and I recently picked up a D5 REVO pump. I also picked up a 250mm Res and was wondering about how to mount it to the pump.
> Do any of you know if EK sells the part below separate?
> 
> 
> What are other options?
> I really would like to stay away from connecting the pump and res via tubing.


You would need to get this : EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 - Acetal

I know it comes with a res tube already but we don't sell just the XRES attachment alone.


----------



## Boost240

I'm officially a member!


----------



## jvidia




----------



## Mega Man

welcome to water cooling!!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boost240*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm officially a member!










You've chosen the best kit there is imo. EK knocks it out of the park with their kits, no other kit even comes close. Enjoy the kit and future debt you will get from joining the club, because it never stops with just a kit!


----------



## 0ldChicken

Since when is ZMT end of life? Do I need to stock up now?


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Since when is ZMT end of life? Do I need to stock up now?


Good catch guess I need pick some of that now going use for back part of case.

Edit
Just checked myself says its in stock doesn't say anything about end of life.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Since when is ZMT end of life? Do I need to stock up now?


What??? Nope certainly not EOL


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Good catch guess I need pick some of that now going use for back part of case.
> 
> Edit
> Just checked myself says its in stock doesn't say anything about end of life.


that is straight from ekwb's site. End of life doesn't mean it is not available anywhere, but I ASSUME it means they aren't making it anymore so when it's gone it's gone. I've got a few extra feet from this build in working on now but I really like the stuff for hidden/secondary runs like you said. Id be sad if it wasn't available next time I go looking to buy some


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> What??? Nope certainly not EOL


I was especially wondering because EK started using lrt in some of the kits (maybe all of them, I dunno)


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> What??? Nope certainly not EOL


Good to hear I was just about order a fair bit I will still do that but only when I know how much I actually need.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I was especially wondering because EK started using lrt in some of the kits (maybe all of them, I dunno)


When the kits comes with 10/13 fittings, since we don't have ZMT in this size we go with LRT but when the kit is with 10/16 fittings it's ZMT.

The product you have is indeed EOL and frankly I don't know how you got this page.

EOL : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-16-10mm

NOT EOL : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-15-9-9-5mm

The description differs but it's the same product.


----------



## nyk20z3

The ZMT is high quality stuff and no plasticizing like standard tubing.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Since when is ZMT end of life? Do I need to stock up now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good catch guess I need pick some of that now going use for back part of case.
> 
> Edit
> Just checked myself says its in stock doesn't say anything about end of life.
Click to expand...

Hopefully that's just a typo, otherwise it would be a crying shame because that's the best tube hands down imo for an easy maintenance free loop...

EDIT: Just saw Akira's post, whew.


----------



## RebelHell

No Boot After Installing WaterCooling

Ok, this was a fully working system a couple weeks ago. I've been installing a full custom loop on my Asus Maximus VI Impact (EK Monoblock) and 780 ti (EK-Full Cover with backplate). Finally have everything ready to go today and when I hit the power button it powers on for about a second and shuts down. It continues this on off loop until I shut off the PSU. I've since stripped everything off of the MB except the CPU and one stick of ram and the same thing happens. I've pulled the water block and checked my CPU pins for damage and I don't see anything wrong. I've reset the bios with the same result...Where do I go from here?

Edit: There are four LED's that are supposed to help you diagnose boot failures and a two digit code readout. The readout never has a chance to change from 00 and the first LED is the only one lit (LED 1 = Boot Device, LED 2 = VGA, LED 3 = RAM, LED 4 = CPU). *** does it mean by boot device??


----------



## JRS2K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You would need to get this : EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 - Acetal
> 
> I know it comes with a res tube already but we don't sell just the XRES attachment alone.


I see.
The threads are the same as the X3 correct?
Might just go with that route.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> No Boot After Installing WaterCooling
> 
> Ok, this was a fully working system a couple weeks ago. I've been installing a full custom loop on my Asus Maximus VI Impact (EK Monoblock) and 780 ti (EK-Full Cover with backplate). Finally have everything ready to go today and when I hit the power button it powers on for about a second and shuts down. It continues this on off loop until I shut off the PSU. I've since stripped everything off of the MB except the CPU and one stick of ram and the same thing happens. I've pulled the water block and checked my CPU pins for damage and I don't see anything wrong. I've reset the bios with the same result...Where do I go from here?
> 
> Edit: There are four LED's that are supposed to help you diagnose boot failures and a two digit code readout. The readout never has a chance to change from 00 and the first LED is the only one lit (LED 1 = Boot Device, LED 2 = VGA, LED 3 = RAM, LED 4 = CPU). *** does it mean by boot device??


Okay...I've replaced the EK monoblock with the Stock cooler and it posted...

So what about the monoblock is keeping the MB from booting??


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Okay...I've replaced the EK monoblock with the Stock cooler and it posted...
> 
> So what about the monoblock is keeping the MB from booting??


hmm... my only guesses are the monoblock was too tight/loose or maybe its warped? just guessing though.


----------



## Boost240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You've chosen the best kit there is imo. EK knocks it out of the park with their kits, no other kit even comes close. Enjoy the kit and future debt you will get from joining the club, because it never stops with just a kit!


I just opened the kit and wow! That new parts smell was great. Also, the quality of the packaging was good too. I opened each component box to make sure all was good and the quality of each of them is superb. I just need my case to come in stock now.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boost240*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You've chosen the best kit there is imo. EK knocks it out of the park with their kits, no other kit even comes close. Enjoy the kit and future debt you will get from joining the club, because it never stops with just a kit!
> 
> 
> 
> I just opened the kit and wow! That new parts smell was great. Also, the quality of the packaging was good too. I opened each component box to make sure all was good and the quality of each of them is superb. I just need my case to come in stock now.
Click to expand...

Which case?


----------



## Boost240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Which case?


Phanteks Evolv Tempered Glass. It's hard enough to get on its own, even harder for me up here in Canada. I was thinking of looking for another case, but I can wait since I do really want this one. I know I'll regret getting anything else.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> hmm... my only guesses are the monoblock was too tight/loose or maybe its warped? just guessing though.


Unfortunately I have work in six hours so my investigation will have to come to a halt for now. Was really hoping to have everything up and running today. Now I just hope I get it running at all. If anyone else has had this issue I would appreciate your advice.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> hmm... my only guesses are the monoblock was too tight/loose or maybe its warped? just guessing though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Unfortunately I have work in six hours so my investigation will have to come to a halt for now. Was really hoping to have everything up and running today. Now I just hope I get it running at all. If anyone else has had this issue I would appreciate your advice.


That's quite peculiar. I guess since you have dismounted the block and acquired boot, you have not reinstalled the block.

Personally, I would reinstall the Mono with TIM and just see how it goes bubba.

TCO


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JRS2K*
> 
> I see.
> The threads are the same as the X3 correct?
> Might just go with that route.


Yes, you can remove the small res tube and install the one from your 250 X3.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Okay...I've replaced the EK monoblock with the Stock cooler and it posted...
> 
> So what about the monoblock is keeping the MB from booting??


It did happen once with a simple CPU block. It turned out I overtighted the mounting screws and it caused the board to be slightly warped/bent.

If I were you, I would try to re-install the monoblock and be a bit more gentle when you secure the block in place...it might solve your issue.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Unfortunately I have work in six hours so my investigation will have to come to a halt for now. Was really hoping to have everything up and running today. Now I just hope I get it running at all. If anyone else has had this issue I would appreciate your advice.


Try loosening the CPU water block a bit, and put some plastic tape between the water block plate behind the mobo and the mobo itself that's not protected by the rubber gasket.

That's if the mobo lights up when powered (without the CPU water block installed), of course.

I had the same symptoms, and wasted way too much time trying to figure it out.
Edited by nonah - 5/17/16 at 11:21pm

From CS brotherhood thread, might help u


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> hmm... my only guesses are the monoblock was too tight/loose or maybe its warped? just guessing though.
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately I have work in six hours so my investigation will have to come to a halt for now. Was really hoping to have everything up and running today. Now I just hope I get it running at all. If anyone else has had this issue I would appreciate your advice.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> hmm... my only guesses are the monoblock was too tight/loose or maybe its warped? just guessing though.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Unfortunately I have work in six hours so my investigation will have to come to a halt for now. Was really hoping to have everything up and running today. Now I just hope I get it running at all. If anyone else has had this issue I would appreciate your advice.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's quite peculiar. I guess since you have dismounted the block and acquired boot, you have not reinstalled the block.
> 
> Personally, I would reinstall the Mono with TIM and just see how it goes bubba.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Okay...I've replaced the EK monoblock with the Stock cooler and it posted...
> 
> So what about the monoblock is keeping the MB from booting??
> 
> 
> 
> It did happen once with a simple CPU block. It turned out I overtighted the mounting screws and it caused the board to be slightly warped/bent.
> 
> If I were you, I would try to re-install the monoblock and be a bit more gentle when you secure the block in place...it might solve your issue.
Click to expand...

Following along the lines of what's been offered already . . .

With the block still off, . . . take a magnifying glass and look at the tops of the caps in that area . . .

It's possible that the block wasn't positioned exactly right and maybe had a the edge of a cap caught under it so that it didn't seat down properly on the CPU and you were getting near instant thermal shutdown.

Along that path of investigation . . . what did the TIM spread pattern look like when you removed the block . . .

If you're getting reliable post and boots now with the stock cooler back on . .

As Akira and TCO suggest, carefully retry the block, tightening gently in a crossing pattern, a small bit at a time . . watching carefully, that nothing is obstructing it.

Just to check, which mobo and block are you working with . . .

Darlene


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It did happen once with a simple CPU block. It turned out I overtighted the mounting screws and it caused the board to be slightly warped/bent.
> 
> If I were you, I would try to re-install the monoblock and be a bit more gentle when you secure the block in place...it might solve your issue.


That's what I have planned next. I can't think of anything else to try.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Try loosening the CPU water block a bit, and put some plastic tape between the water block plate behind the mobo and the mobo itself that's not protected by the rubber gasket.
> 
> That's if the mobo lights up when powered (without the CPU water block installed), of course.
> 
> I had the same symptoms, and wasted way too much time trying to figure it out.
> Edited by nonah - 5/17/16 at 11:21pm
> 
> From CS brotherhood thread, might help u


Yes, the motherboard did POST after installing the stock cooler.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Following along the lines of what's been offered already . . .
> 
> With the block still off, . . . take a magnifying glass and look at the tops of the caps in that area . . .
> 
> It's possible that the block wasn't positioned exactly right and maybe had a the edge of a cap caught under it so that it didn't seat down properly on the CPU and you were getting near instant thermal shutdown.
> 
> Along that path of investigation . . . what did the TIM spread pattern look like when you removed the block . . .
> 
> If you're getting reliable post and boots now with the stock cooler back on . .
> 
> As Akira and TCO suggest, carefully retry the block, tightening gently in a crossing pattern, a small bit at a time . . watching carefully, that nothing is obstructing it.
> 
> Just to check, which mobo and block are you working with . . .
> 
> Darlene


It's an Asus Maximus VI Impact. The block is an EK-FB ASUS M6I - Acetal/Nickel.
Asus does a pretty good job of lining their caps all up in a pretty row. I did not see any components that interfered with the block.


The TIM spread looked great. A thin even layer on both the CPU and the chipset. The VRM and chokes left a gentle impression in the thermal pads. I don't have a picture though.

The only thing I can think of at this point is I've over-tightened it. I'm kind of used to the 'tighten 'til you hear a crack and back it off a quarter turn' philosophy, so that's not out of the question.

Just kinda panicking because this is my first custom loop. Spent two weeks gathering and carefully assembling all these parts and then in one hour it's all in pieces.

7 PM last night...


8 PM last night...


I may have to leave work early because this driving me crazy.

Thank you all for your responses.


----------



## RebelHell

So how safe is it to fire up this motherboard with a dry water block just long enough to see post?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> So how safe is it to fire up this motherboard with a dry water block just long enough to see post?


Not going to last lang but will not hurt anything as it will shut down on thermal before it damages anything. May not even get it to post depending on a lot of factors and maybe you will... but should not damage anything as the m/b bios should shut down the PC at a certain temp not sure what it is.

Thing is if it will post and start then when it does shut down you will have to wait a while for it to cool back off before you can try again!!

hope this helps and I was not too confusing!!


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> So how safe is it to fire up this motherboard with a dry water block just long enough to see post?


You'll be absolutely fine, dont sweat it your CPU will not create a lot of heat just to post


----------



## RebelHell

Okay, so I took a half day from work and have been messing with this thing for the last 3 or 4 hours. I reinstalled the block being careful not to over tighten the mounting screws and tried to boot. Still no post. So I took it apart and searched relentlessly for something that must be shorting out. I never found anything. So I remounted the block with only the chipset and VRM screws holding it in place and POST!! What the heck? Pulled the board out and carefully put the four CPU mounting screws in with barely any tension. Seemed to work just fine. I'm not real happy with the lack of tension on those screws though. Some temperature checks are in order I think.

So now the loop is back together and filled. I am using the system right now to type this forum post. The only other problem I ran into was a bad SATA cable on one of my RAID drives. Luckily I had a spare.

At the moment I'm basically idling at 37 C with an ambient of 27 C and all fans and pump at 40%.

Thanks to everyone that helped me troubleshoot. Now to work on my LEDs...


----------



## RebelHell

Not happy with my performance so far. Before I built the custom loop I was getting 4.4 GHz at 1.28v (it's a crappy chip) with my temps peaking at 77C. That was using an H80i from Corsair. Now I am having to push 1.35v to get a stable 4.4 and I have cores topping 90C !!! I seriously think the water block isn't tight enough against the CPU for proper cooling. But if I tighten it I can't boot. What's going on here?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Not happy with my performance so far. Before I built the custom loop I was getting 4.4 GHz at 1.28v (it's a crappy chip) with my temps peaking at 77C. That was using an H80i from Corsair. Now I am having to push 1.35v to get a stable 4.4 and I have cores topping 90C !!! I seriously think the water block isn't tight enough against the CPU for proper cooling. But if I tighten it I can't boot. What's going on here?


Have you or can you try just a regular CPU block instead of the monoblock? My guess is the monoblock is causing a short somewhere somehow. May be better to RMA it at this point.


----------



## surfinchina

Made me think.
I have an X99 evo supremacy block and it's super hard to get the screws in because of spring tension. And seems to overtighten.
I thought that it was set up to tighten till the nuts won't turn any more?

Anyway, the computer freezes randomly - about twice a day, also 2 mem slots won't work, and fiddling with the nuts changes that.
So I'm suspecting that it's overtightened.
It's on an EVGA micro 2.

Should I back off the screws until they're only just into the screw slots on the mobo and try that?
It's a really tight build and difficult to even do this, so I ask first.

I have a normal evo supremacy block that seemed to work better when I set this up, but it's on another computer and I don't have the time to do major draining and swapping parts right now...


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Have you or can you try just a regular CPU block instead of the monoblock? My guess is the monoblock is causing a short somewhere somehow. May be better to RMA it at this point.


I haven't, no. I don't have a CPU block I can try. I suppose I could order one. Of course that would mean draining the loop (again) and bending new tubing for the block. Not to mention another $80 on a build I've already spent too much on. But then again I'm already rethinking the color of my cables... What's a little bit of money, right?









Edit: I can almost reach all the backplate screws through the MB tray. If I pull this board again I'll be snipping away some of the tray so I can adjust that screw tension on the fly. Would be nice to be able to give a quarter turn and try to boot again, rinse and repeat until failure, without pulling everything apart. I have to say I've learned a lot. I knew custom water cooling would be a challenge, guess it's just now sinking in though.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> Made me think.
> I have an X99 evo supremacy block and it's super hard to get the screws in because of spring tension. And seems to overtighten.
> I thought that it was set up to tighten till the nuts won't turn any more?
> 
> Anyway, the computer freezes randomly - about twice a day, also 2 mem slots won't work, and fiddling with the nuts changes that.
> So I'm suspecting that it's overtightened.
> It's on an EVGA micro 2.
> 
> Should I back off the screws until they're only just into the screw slots on the mobo and try that?
> It's a really tight build and difficult to even do this, so I ask first.
> 
> I have a normal evo supremacy block that seemed to work better when I set this up, but it's on another computer and I don't have the time to do major draining and swapping parts right now...


No, the mounting screws must be hand tightened until the end of the thread. But like you said, the issues can come by the over tightening of the nuts over the springs. If you un-tight them by a quarter of a turn, does the issue completely go away?


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No, the mounting screws must be hand tightened until the end of the thread. But like you said, the issues can come by the over tightening of the nuts over the springs. If you un-tight them by a quarter of a turn, does the issue completely go away?


So how tight should the screws be on the monoblock? There are no springs to keep tension on the block.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> ......I have to say I've learned a lot. I knew custom water cooling would be a challenge, guess it's just now sinking in though.


But you shouldn't have encounter that kind of issues.









When you put the stock cooler in place, did you remove the True Backplate and put back the original latching mechanism backplate?


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> But you shouldn't have encounter that kind of issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you put the stock cooler in place, did you remove the True Backplate and put back the original latching mechanism backplate?


Yes, I had to. The stock cooler wouldn't push through the True Backplate.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> So how tight should the screws be on the monoblock? There are no springs to keep tension on the block.


Hand tight....so when you feel tension in your screwing you should be fine.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Yes, I had to. The stock cooler wouldn't push through the True Backplate.


Ok.

Also, did you try to only have the 4 screws of the monoblock screwed and not the one on the daughterboard and on the chipset?


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Ok.
> 
> Also, did you try to only have the 4 screws of the monoblock screwed and not the one on the daughterboard and on the chipset?


I did not. I tried only the screws on the chipset and daughter board. It booted fine with just those holding it on. But with that being the only thing holding the block on the CPU and that fact the block was dry at the time I only had it on long enough to see POST. Then I added the four CPU screws and just stopped tightening when the heads touched the backplate. That's where it's at now. It works but I got better temps on the old Corsair sealed loop cooler.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> I did not. I tried only the screws on the chipset and daughter board. It booted fine with just those holding it on. But with that being the only thing holding the block on the CPU and that fact the block was dry at the time I only had it on long enough to see POST. Then I added the four CPU screws and just stopped tightening when the heads touched the backplate. That's where it's at now. It works but I got better temps on the old Corsair sealed loop cooler.


And if you get them let's say a quarter of a turn more it doesn't post?


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> And if you get them let's say a quarter of a turn more it doesn't post?


Exactly. Another quarter turn and it just power cycles.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Exactly. Another quarter turn and it just power cycles.


I'm afraid there's something wrong with the monoblock and it needs to be RMA'd









You will need to open a ticket on our website for it : https://ekwb.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I'm afraid there's something wrong with the monoblock and it needs to be RMA'd
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will need to open a ticket on our website for it : https://ekwb.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new


That makes me very sad.









I'll open a ticket when I get home this afternoon. I'm guessing they won't cross ship to reduce down time?


----------



## RebelHell

Well here's my build so far. A few things I'm planning on changing though. I'll call it a work in progress in perpetuity.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Well here's my build so far. A few things I'm planning on changing though. I'll call it a work in progress in perpetuity.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Do you think the front of that case could fit a 28mm thick radiator and fans?


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Do you think the front of that case could fit a 28mm thick radiator and fans?


Yes it can but not with a radiator in the top unless you modify it. I've seen one poster on here that drilled new mounting holes for the top rad and was able to slide it back far enough to make room for one in the front as well.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Yes it can but not with a radiator in the top unless you modify it. I've seen one poster on here that drilled new mounting holes for the top rad and was able to slide it back far enough to make room for one in the front as well.


Cool, I'll look into this case a little bit more.\


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Cool, I'll look into this case a little bit more.\


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> I couldn't either, I had to drill new holes on the roof to fit the radiators properly:


Here's the convo from another thread. It's a tight fit.


----------



## wermad

Im on the ek shop site, wondering what is "QClass2"?

Two of my gpu blocks came with their o-rings missing, ppcs is oos, so im browsing the ek shop. I also need two backplates and its when i saw this q class2


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Im on the ek shop site, wondering what is "QClass2"?
> 
> Two of my gpu blocks came with their o-rings missing, ppcs is oos, so im browsing the ek shop. I also need two backplates and its when i saw this q class2


QClass2 is second quality items. So the finish on the backplates may have some small defects or the backplate may have other defects. It's usually indentified in the description.

About your o-rings, you can open a ticket on our website to have some shipped to you.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Im on the ek shop site, wondering what is "QClass2"?
> 
> Two of my gpu blocks came with their o-rings missing, ppcs is oos, so im browsing the ek shop. I also need two backplates and its when i saw this q class2


Quality class 2. Basically they are factory seconds. Blemish items sold at discount.


----------



## wermad

Ty guys.

I bought two used blocks so i doubt support will help. But, i need two backplates, a cpu block,and the o-rings are cheap, so the shop seems like the best option thus far.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I'm afraid there's something wrong with the monoblock and it needs to be RMA'd
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will need to open a ticket on our website for it : https://ekwb.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new


Reading this dialouge along with my personal experience with EK support is a perfect example of why I love them as a company. Willing to admit fault(or even potential fault like in my case....it was never your XRES guys...it was ASUS doing what they do best...failing to admit it could possibly be their hardware in some omniscient fashion) because nobody is perfect(cept ASUS








,) always helpful to newbies like myself instead of talking down to us and a commitment to excellence.
Keep it up EK!









Also I thoroughly enjoy reading your blogs and have learned a ton. I hope to try my hand at my first loop(soft tubing) shortly.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I'm afraid there's something wrong with the monoblock and it needs to be RMA'd
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will need to open a ticket on our website for it : https://ekwb.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new
> 
> 
> 
> Reading this dialouge along with my personal experience with EK support is a perfect example of why I love them as a company. Willing to admit fault(or even potential fault like in my case....it was never your XRES guys...it was ASUS doing what they do best...failing) because nobody is perfect(cept ASUS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,) always helpful to newbies like myself instead of talking down to us and a commitment to excellence. Keep it up EK!
Click to expand...

ASUS is the top of the heap for a reason. But if you're referring to the X99 issue, I cannot find fault solely in their camp when PSU manufacturers changed their PSUs firmware and didn't notify everybody. We rely on system specs in this industry. If you change the design or specs of your product, it's your *obligation and responsibility* to alert the other manufacturers of your change since it affects their products as well as the end user.

Might ASUS have done a better job fixing the issue? Maybe. But their boards were already boxed sold and shipped. I'm not saying they don't share culpability(Remember the CIVF NB issue?) but if that's your only reason for sending them to the flogging, then I cannot disagree more. Been using ASUS for over 10 years w/o issue. There is a reason ASUS gets more of my Tech bucks than any other brand.









~Ceadder


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ASUS is the top of the heap for a reason. But if you're referring to the X99 issue, I cannot find fault solely in their camp when PSU manufacturers changed their PSUs firmware and didn't notify everybody. We rely on system specs in this industry. If you change the design or specs of your product, it's your *obligation and responsibility* to alert the other manufacturers of your change since it affects their products as well as the end user.
> 
> Might ASUS have done a better job fixing the issue? Maybe. But their boards were already boxed sold and shipped. I'm not saying they don't share culpability(Remember the CIVF NB issue?) but if that's your only reason for sending them to the flogging, then I cannot disagree more. Been using ASUS for over 10 years w/o issue. There is a reason ASUS gets more of my Tech bucks than any other brand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nope Z170 but the last 4 ASUS boards I tried were either DOA or suffered serious instability(regardless of BIOS versions) with all hardware set to stock clocks so we can rule out my noob OCing skills as I never even got around to that on them. Last good ASUS board for me was P67 Sabretooth which literally was perfect.

I am looking for a board now that is non ASUS and matches my theme(white primary, black secondary). Willing to go back to Z97 if need be and at worst scrap my entire theme and rebuild with less restrictions based on color. I need a rock solid stable system more than a piece of eye candy because of school.

I'm willing to concede bad luck on my part and perhaps a case or two of user error but I just decided this 7 month nightmare was the last straw when I suspected the board at the beginning and ASUS played the blame game with everyone else....turned out it was their board as I suspected. Their support also treated me like a nuisance and I was nothing but patient and kind. My system builder met similar resistance with them as well and has informed me that there have been lots of issues with configs using my board in regard to RMA'd systems. Factor in that my board and CPU(only other possible culprit that will be tested soon) were sourced early in release and there is a decent chance I got a lemon.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> That makes me very sad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll open a ticket when I get home this afternoon. I'm guessing they won't cross ship to reduce down time?


Not sure if this has been looked in to, but you are using the paper gasket on the rear mounting plate? Also, wanted to suggest use some paper or nylon washers on the rear cpu mounting screws.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not sure if this has been looked in to, but you are using the paper gasket on the rear mounting plate? Also, wanted to suggest use some paper or nylon washers on the rear cpu mounting screws.


Lol, no I didn't leave the paper backing on the water block. Although I have done that on an air cooler before. And I don't know what washers on the screws would accomplish. They aren't touching the board, they are against the backplate. And the backplate has a vinyl gasket/separator to prevent shorting.


----------



## RebelHell

And now with my continued tests/stupidity.
I carefully removed one of the fans from my rad so I could access the backplate screws...

So I started it up and started tightening them one by one. And by tightening I mean I was using two fingers on the screwdriver and turning the screws slightly because there was no torque. I was able to get some slight tension on the top two screws but as soon as there was any drag on either of the bottom two screws the machine would just shut down.

And now I'm done torturing my motherboard, that I can't afford to replace. I am going to order a plain CPU block to use in the interim while I RMA this block.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I'm afraid there's something wrong with the monoblock and it needs to be RMA'd
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will need to open a ticket on our website for it : https://ekwb.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new
> 
> 
> 
> Reading this dialouge along with my personal experience with EK support is a perfect example of why I love them as a company. Willing to admit fault(or even potential fault like in my case....it was never your XRES guys...it was ASUS doing what they do best...failing) because nobody is perfect(cept ASUS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,) always helpful to newbies like myself instead of talking down to us and a commitment to excellence. Keep it up EK!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ASUS is the top of the heap for a reason. But if you're referring to the X99 issue, I cannot find fault solely in their camp when PSU manufacturers changed their PSUs firmware and didn't notify everybody. We rely on system specs in this industry. If you change the design or specs of your product, it's your *obligation and responsibility* to alert the other manufacturers of your change since it affects their products as well as the end user.
> 
> Might ASUS have done a better job fixing the issue? Maybe. But their boards were already boxed sold and shipped. I'm not saying they don't share culpability(Remember the CIVF NB issue?) but if that's your only reason for sending them to the flogging, then I cannot disagree more. Been using ASUS for over 10 years w/o issue. There is a reason ASUS gets more of my Tech bucks than any other brand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

you are talking about corsair psus?

imo all on corsair, they brag about OCP on the box, it should have OCP _by default_ to think otherwise is ridiculous !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> And now with my continued tests/stupidity.
> I carefully removed one of the fans from my rad so I could access the backplate screws...
> 
> So I started it up and started tightening them one by one. And by tightening I mean I was using two fingers on the screwdriver and turning the screws slightly because there was no torque. I was able to get some slight tension on the top two screws but as soon as there was any drag on either of the bottom two screws the machine would just shut down.
> 
> And now I'm done torturing my motherboard, that I can't afford to replace. I am going to order a plain CPU block to use in the interim while I RMA this block.


:/ sorry to hear :/


----------



## Costas

Thankyou EKWB for making available your XTOP REVO pump tops without pumps...









Purchased two the other day from my local retailer.

Looking at mounting them slightly differently as to how they are normally intended to be mounted...











My Aquacomputer USB D5's now have a home...


----------



## andrej124

Hey guys, *EK-FC1080 GTX* water blocks are already available for purchase!









https://www.ekwb.com/shop/water-blocks/vga-blocks/full-cover-for-nvidia-geforce/geforce-gtx-10x0-series


----------



## testplsignore

...not compatible with the Nvidia HB SLI Bridges?

:O

What bridges can we use then?


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Thankyou EKWB for making available your XTOP REVO pump tops without pumps...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Purchased two the other day from my local retailer.
> 
> Looking at mounting them slightly differently as to how they are normally intended to be mounted...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Aquacomputer USB D5's now have a home...


Are you planning on updating your deja vu build?


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *testplsignore*
> 
> ...not compatible with the Nvidia HB SLI Bridges?
> 
> :O
> 
> What bridges can we use then?


Yes. I want to know the answer to this too. I was planning on getting a pair of 1080's in SLI. Of course, I want maximum performance, so I want the extra bandwidth afforded by the new Nvidia HB SLI Bridges. So if I do this do I really have to go for someone else's GPU waterblocks or does anyone know of any other manutacturer that will be doing high bandwidth SLI bridges that _are_ compatible with EKWB's 1080 blocks?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

I'm also rather curious as to why the blocks were designed without compatibility for use with the new bridges, as those are supposed to be one of the biggest selling features for the new generation (alongside all the improvements)


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *testplsignore*
> 
> ...not compatible with the Nvidia HB SLI Bridges?
> 
> :O
> 
> What bridges can we use then?


Ummm, that's not good...


----------



## testplsignore

I've been really happy with my existing EK blocks, but it's seriously making me consider whether or not I keep my current order for the 1080 blocks...


----------



## Enapace

I kind of want know how long we will be waiting for the Asus/EVGA/MSI Custom Waterblocks


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Here's the convo from another thread. It's a tight fit.


Thanks, I found the thread through Google about two minutes after I read your post.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Nope Z170 but the last 4 ASUS boards I tried were either DOA or suffered serious instability(regardless of BIOS versions) with all hardware set to stock clocks so we can rule out my noob OCing skills as I never even got around to that on them. Last good ASUS board for me was P67 Sabretooth which literally was perfect.
> 
> I am looking for a board now that is non ASUS and matches my theme(white primary, black secondary). Willing to go back to Z97 if need be and at worst scrap my entire theme and rebuild with less restrictions based on color. I need a rock solid stable system more than a piece of eye candy because of school.
> 
> I'm willing to concede bad luck on my part and perhaps a case or two of user error but I just decided this 7 month nightmare was the last straw when I suspected the board at the beginning and ASUS played the blame game with everyone else....turned out it was their board as I suspected. Their support also treated me like a nuisance and I was nothing but patient and kind. My system builder met similar resistance with them as well and has informed me that there have been lots of issues with configs using my board in regard to RMA'd systems. Factor in that my board and CPU(only other possible culprit that will be tested soon) were sourced early in release and there is a decent chance I got a lemon.


White and black, how about an Asus WS board? Did not read thoroughly enough...
How about one of the MSI SLI boards?

P.S. Sorry for the unintentional double post!


----------



## RGSPro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *testplsignore*
> 
> I've been really happy with my existing EK blocks, but it's seriously making me consider whether or not I keep my current order for the 1080 blocks...


Seriously... I added them to the cart then saw that they didn't work with the new HB Bridge... Seriously, what were they thinking?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RGSPro*
> 
> Seriously... I added them to the cart then saw that they didn't work with the new HB Bridge... Seriously, what were they thinking?


Maybe, Just Maybe, Ek knows something about the Bridge that You don't: IE: That the bridge really isn't what it's talked up to be (Data transfer-wise)

TCO


----------



## RGSPro

Well, since the HB bridge is just using both SLI connectors and a faster clock speed, I wonder if you get the faster transfer speed on a 3-way sli bridge that can also connect both ports.


----------



## SteezyTN

I'm sure it has to do with how the bridge "fits" the shroud on the OEM heatsink/fan. When you remove it, there would be nothing for it to align with (if that makes since).


----------



## Enapace

Apparently EK is making a SLI Bridge.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> White and black, how about an Asus WS board? Did not read thoroughly enough...
> How about one of the MSI SLI boards?
> 
> P.S. Sorry for the unintentional double post!


It would be my only other viable option to stay on the Z170 chipset and keep the theme. I have never in my life used an MSI board and it appears to get mixed reviews. It certainly has been something I have been considering but I have also considered scratching the entire thing and just building a peasant 1080 air cooled PC running win 7 and wait out all this new tech and win10 a few years. I really wanted to play Deus Ex in DX12 with everything cranked but it just doesn't seem in the cards.

Such a shame the rig is a work of art and it runs silent even under load....all ruined because a finicky mobo with a mind of it's own.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Apparently EK is making a SLI Bridge.


I'd buy that.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Apparently EK is making a SLI Bridge.


Whats the source of that?


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Whats the source of that?


https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18732760

Scroll down a bit OCUK Staff normally are pretty in the know.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Whats the source of that?


@andrejEKWB mentioned this here:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/4l9tqf/you_can_already_buy_ekfc1080_gtx_water_blocks/d3lj834


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Whats the source of that?
> 
> 
> 
> https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18732760
> 
> Scroll down a bit OCUK Staff normally are pretty in the know.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Whats the source of that?
> 
> 
> 
> @andrejEKWB mentioned this here:
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/4l9tqf/you_can_already_buy_ekfc1080_gtx_water_blocks/d3lj834
Click to expand...

Hmmm, well that will be interesting to see.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> @andrejEKWB mentioned this here:
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/4l9tqf/you_can_already_buy_ekfc1080_gtx_water_blocks/d3lj834


Well that brings a sigh of relief... And integrated in as well... This will be rather interesting I feel.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Whats the source of that?
> 
> 
> 
> @andrejEKWB mentioned this here:
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/4l9tqf/you_can_already_buy_ekfc1080_gtx_water_blocks/d3lj834
Click to expand...


----------



## testplsignore

Well that's a relief, wasn't a fan of the green in the HB bridge anyway...

I wonder what the styling will be like...


----------



## derickwm

Project Pipe Dream for Computex




































































































More photos:



http://imgur.com/TTbBf


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Polished for a couple hours tonight.

More in the 780T Log














TCO


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I wonder wich cards EK. has the plans to make FC blocks for, I dont mind using a card with the cooler it came with for a couple of months but, buying a card and then finding out the block aing coming would be pretty sad, because I'd like to buy something next week, EVGA FTW for example.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I wonder wich cards EK. has the plans to make FC blocks for, I dont mind using a card with the cooler it came with for a couple of months but, buying a card and then finding out the block aing coming would be pretty sad, because I'd like to buy something next week, EVGA FTW for example.


MSI Gaming 1080, Gigabyte Gaming 1080, and Asus Strix 1080.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> MSI Gaming 1080, Gigabyte Gaming 1080, and Asus Strix 1080.


Awesome Derick, was just about to ask that very question. Will the Asus Strix block be available upon release of the card and will it support the use of the Strix RGB backplate? Thanks!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> MSI Gaming 1080, Gigabyte Gaming 1080, and Asus Strix 1080.
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome Derick, was just about to ask that very question. Will the Asus Strix block be available upon release of the card and will it support the use of the Strix RGB backplate? Thanks!
Click to expand...

Not likely available on same release date, but I assure you it will be shortly after. As for the backplate, I'm not sure at this time. Perhaps one of the R&D guys can provide that answer.


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> MSI Gaming 1080, Gigabyte Gaming 1080, and Asus Strix 1080.


Very nice to hear which 1080 Custom Card Blocks are in the works.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Are you planning on updating your deja vu build?


Not at this stage.... Although I could use these in my build with very little modification... Hmmm maybe a project for a later date...


----------



## Krowzer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> MSI Gaming 1080, Gigabyte Gaming 1080, and Asus Strix 1080.


No EVGA FTW?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krowzer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> MSI Gaming 1080, Gigabyte Gaming 1080, and Asus Strix 1080.
> 
> 
> 
> No EVGA FTW?
Click to expand...

Probably no evga non-ref this generation.


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Probably no evga non-ref this generation.


Interesting Asus or MSI I guess it will be for me then thanks for information. Would late June Early July be a good approx time for there release ?


----------



## Krowzer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Probably no evga non-ref this generation.


Damn, guess I'd better cancel my pre-order then. Shame as a lot of people seemed to be hoping you would be doing blocks for the FTW


----------



## Enapace

Would I be correct in assuming this https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-d5-pwm-plexi-incl-pump

Is enough for CPU and Dual SLI in a loop ?

Or would I be better off with

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial-incl-pump

?


----------



## outofmyheadyo

FTW really shouldnt be anything special compared to G1 or MSI gaming or is it ?


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> FTW really shouldnt be anything special compared to G1 or MSI gaming or is it ?


Thinks it's more the warranty then anything else


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Probably no evga non-ref this generation.
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting Asus or MSI I guess it will be for me then thanks for information. Would late June Early July be a good approx time for there release ?
Click to expand...

As of this post, yes. ETAs are as always, subject to change though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Would I be correct in assuming this https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-d5-pwm-plexi-incl-pump
> 
> Is enough for CPU and Dual SLI in a loop ?
> 
> Or would I be better off with
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial-incl-pump
> 
> ?


A single D5 is plenty for that loop.


----------



## Ukaz

Seriously guys, will I see improvements with a single EK Coolstream 360 XE and 6 fans (vardar ones) over a aircooler (Noctua NH-D15) for a 5930k (4.5 Ghz/1.3 volts)?
Will it be able to keep the temperature under prime95 under 90 °C ?
I need a response because the more I read, the more I say to myself that custom watercooling does not worth it.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukaz*
> 
> Seriously guys, will I see improvements with a single EK Coolstream 360 XE and 6 fans (vardar ones) over a aircooler (Noctua NH-D15) for a 5930k (4.5 Ghz/1.3 volts)?
> Will it be able to keep the temperature under prime95 under 90 °C ?
> I need a response because the more I read, the more I say to myself that custom watercooling does not worth it.


Dont use Prime95 for haswell, thats the problem with your temperatures


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukaz*
> 
> Seriously guys, will I see improvements with a single EK Coolstream 360 XE and 6 fans (vardar ones) over a aircooler (Noctua NH-D15) for a 5930k (4.5 Ghz/1.3 volts)?
> Will it be able to keep the temperature under prime95 under 90 °C ?
> I need a response because the more I read, the more I say to myself that custom watercooling does not worth it.


Yes, you will see better temps. If that's the only reason you want to do custom water cooling then no, it's not worth it. Custom water cooling is more about the journey than the destination. Find a decent all in one. EK Predator is fantastic, Swiftech makes a great system too. It'll be much cheaper. easier and get you the performance you're looking for.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Dont use Prime95 for haswell, thats the problem with your temperatures


I always use an older version.27,7 I believe. Stresses well, but doesn't put any unnecessary heat into the CPU.
But having that said, i have a 4core, not a 6core.
That mixes it up quite a lot.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> I always use an older version.27,7 I believe. Stresses well, but doesn't put any unnecessary heat into the CPU.
> But having that said, i have a 4core, not a 6core.
> That mixes it up quite a lot.


I'm running Haswell and have never had a problem with Prime95. That being said I use Aida 64 these days. Since that's what most people seem to be using it's easier to directly compare my results with others.


----------



## Ukaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Yes, you will see better temps. If that's the only reason you want to do custom water cooling then no, it's not worth it. Custom water cooling is more about the journey than the destination. Find a decent all in one. EK Predator is fantastic, Swiftech makes a great system too. It'll be much cheaper. easier and get you the performance you're looking for.


Thanks for the reply ! It's not only for prime95 tough.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Probably no evga non-ref this generation.


Seriously no Classified block? I was really looking forward to upgrading from my 780 Ti's, now I guess I won't bother


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Probably no evga non-ref this generation.


Is it because of poor non-reference EVGA block sales for the previous generation, or because at this time you guys are still in talks with them regarding the hydrocopper blocks again?

I remember that caused a few delays last time. I'm curious as well, because I love EVGA for their warranties but if blocks for their products will not be planned or even in the r&d queue, such will definitely affect sales for some people as we'll swing towards other companies so that we can keep our cards nice and cool.

Also, any word yet on if gtx 1070 blocks will be done, or is that still up in the air due to the nda not having lifted on review samples (and of course, them not being on shelves)?

... Edited what I said in second paragraph in order for it to come across more clearly, I wrote it weirdly the first time.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Probably no evga non-ref this generation.
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously no Classified block? I was really looking forward to upgrading from my 780 Ti's, now I guess I won't bother
Click to expand...

There are other brands








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Probably no evga non-ref this generation.
> 
> 
> 
> Is it because of poor non-reference EVGA block sales for the previous generation, or because at this time you guys are still in talks with them regarding the hydrocopper blocks again?
> 
> I remember that caused a few delays last time. I'm curious as well, because I love EVGA for their warranties but if blocks for their products will not be planned or even in the r&d queue, such will definitely affect sales for some people as we'll swing towards other companies so that we can keep our cards nice and cool.
> 
> Also, any word yet on if gtx 1070 blocks will be done, or is that still up in the air due to the nda not having lifted on review samples (and of course, them not being on shelves)?
> 
> ... Edited what I said in second paragraph in order for it to come across more clearly, I wrote it weirdly the first time.
Click to expand...

As for evga, basically yes the reasons you have stated.

As for 1070, all I know right now is that both the 1080 and 1070 Founder's Edition share the same PCB and are both compatible with the same block. As for non-ref I'm not sure as I haven't seen them.


----------



## Radnad

Sounds like EVGA and EK don't have a very cordial relationship these days...


----------



## Mega Man

me thinks evga served ek cold beer.

made ek very mad as it is supposed to be warm beer

that reminds me * goes to mini fridge and grabs a beer *


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> me thinks evga served ek cold beer.
> 
> made ek very mad as it is supposed to be warm beer
> 
> that reminds me * goes to mini fridge and grabs a beer *


Maybe the other way around







cold beer is always better than warm


----------



## Ceadderman

If I cannot get it cold I will partake in some warm Guinness stout.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> me thinks evga served ek cold beer.
> 
> made ek very mad as it is supposed to be warm beer
> 
> that reminds me * goes to mini fridge and grabs a beer *
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe the other way around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cold beer is always better than warm
Click to expand...

not in the uk it isnt !


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> me thinks evga served ek cold beer.
> 
> made ek very mad as it is supposed to be warm beer
> 
> that reminds me * goes to mini fridge and grabs a beer *
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe the other way around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cold beer is always better than warm
Click to expand...

Good beer should be served neither cold or warm, it should be somewhere in between depending on the type. But EK water blocks for EVGA GPU's should be served hot off the mill considering their popularity.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not in the uk it isnt !


I barely drink beer and I was going to say there are a number of European ones that are best served warmed up slightly.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I barely drink beer and I was going to say there are a number of European ones that are best served warmed up slightly.


Indeed, a lot of the better dark ones are best served around 10-12°C. You lose a lot of the flavour if they're served too cold.


----------



## Kaapstad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> There are other brands
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for evga, basically yes the reasons you have stated.
> 
> As for 1070, all I know right now is that both the 1080 and 1070 Founder's Edition share the same PCB and are both compatible with the same block. As for non-ref I'm not sure as I haven't seen them.


Seriously no waterblocks for the Classified ?

I use quite a few EVGA cards and also quite a few of your waterblocks and backplates (16 of each at the moment) so this is a bit disappointing.

Is there any chance of you doing a re think please.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> me thinks evga served ek cold beer.
> 
> made ek very mad as it is supposed to be warm beer
> 
> that reminds me * goes to mini fridge and grabs a beer *
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe the other way around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cold beer is always better than warm
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> not in the uk it isnt !
Click to expand...

I always forget non-Americans don't always like things cold.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> me thinks evga served ek cold beer.
> 
> made ek very mad as it is supposed to be warm beer
> 
> that reminds me * goes to mini fridge and grabs a beer *
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe the other way around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cold beer is always better than warm
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Good beer should be served neither cold or warm, it should be somewhere in between depending on the type. But EK water blocks for EVGA GPU's should be served hot off the mill considering their popularity.
Click to expand...

Actually they weren't too popular compared to MSI & Gigabyte.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaapstad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> There are other brands
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for evga, basically yes the reasons you have stated.
> 
> As for 1070, all I know right now is that both the 1080 and 1070 Founder's Edition share the same PCB and are both compatible with the same block. As for non-ref I'm not sure as I haven't seen them.
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously no waterblocks for the Classified ?
> 
> I use quite a few EVGA cards and also quite a few of your waterblocks and backplates (16 of each at the moment) so this is a bit disappointing.
> 
> Is there any chance of you doing a re think please.
Click to expand...

I did say "probably". But unless EVGA comes out with some unicorn card that is absolutely amazing, then not likely.


----------



## tistou77

The waterblock 1080/1070 isn't compatible with the SLI HB ?


----------



## Touge180SX

I have never been a fan of warm beer. I brew and have my kegerator set at 4C all the time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> The waterblock 1080/1070 isn't compatible with the SLI HB ?


EK is creating their own bridge that from what most of us our guessing will have the SLI HB cable integrated with the waterblock connection .


----------



## tistou77

Ok thanks


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I always forget non-Americans don't always like things cold.
> Actually they weren't too popular compared to MSI & Gigabyte.
> I did say "probably". But unless EVGA comes out with some unicorn card that is absolutely amazing, then not likely.


What does your magic 8 ball say about a 1080 Ti Classified/KPE EK waterblock?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> What does your magic 8 ball say about a 1080 Ti Classified/KPE EK waterblock?


Ti versions aren't due for a long while so no infos on this


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Ti versions aren't due for a long while so no infos on this


Hopefully your beer is at the right temperature by then.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I did say "probably". But unless EVGA comes out with some unicorn card that is absolutely amazing, then not likely.


Knowing this I think I will wait for this generation's Titan. Thank you for this info so we don't buy cards we can't get blocks for


----------



## meson1

Going off the timings of past Nvidia releases, I wouldn't have thought that we'll see 'Big' Pascal until Q4 2016 or more likely H1 2017. When we do it'll be the next Titan.

But then we won't see the Ti variant until a further 3 to 6 months after that.


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> Going off the timings of past Nvidia releases, I wouldn't have thought that we'll see 'Big' Pascal until Q4 2016 or more likely Q1 2017. When we do it'll be the next Titan.
> 
> But then we won't see the Ti variant until a further 3 to 6 months after that.


Precisely the reason I'm going for 1080 SLI I'm hoping to build a gaming rig at moment that will last me a while. Sadly my current card won't last till then.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I did say "probably". But unless EVGA comes out with some unicorn card that is absolutely amazing, then not likely.
> 
> 
> 
> Knowing this I think I will wait for this generation's Titan. Thank you for this info so we don't buy cards we can't get blocks for
Click to expand...

NP


----------



## FXformat

wow talk about game changer, I love EVGA's warranty and customer service and have been using their cards every generation since the 550's...can't imagine going to another brand as they always replaced my cards when it went bad. EK undoubtedly owns the watercooling game and if they don't make blocks for evga that's gonna hurt EVGA's sales 10 fold. I was waiting to get a hydro copper 1080 too but I guess that won't happen now. My 980ti HC in the meantime will serve me just fine until I see a block as good looking as this one.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> NP


So EVGA aren't allowing you to make blocks or? I'm confused lol.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> So EVGA aren't allowing you to make blocks or? I'm confused lol.


Last time I checked, I thought EK has been manufacturing the Hydrocopper block for EVGA. Am I wrong?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Last time I checked, I thought EK has been manufacturing the Hydrocopper block for EVGA. Am I wrong?


You're correct, I was wondering if EK are being blocked (no pun intended) by EVGA so they can't make blocks for their 1070 and 1080 cards.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Last time I checked, I thought EK has been manufacturing the Hydrocopper block for EVGA. Am I wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> You're correct, I was wondering if EK are being blocked (no pun intended) by EVGA so they can't make blocks for their 1070 and 1080 cards.
Click to expand...

That's not the case. They can't stop us from making blocks haha


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That's not the case. They can't stop us from making blocks haha


Ah, sorry just all this talk is confusing, plus I have man flu so I'm full of drugs lol.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ah, sorry just all this talk is confusing, plus I have man flu so I'm full of drugs lol.


I want man flu


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I want man flu


Lol why? It sucks, my nose is bleeding from the irritation from blowing my nose every 3 mins or so.


----------



## paskowitz

I wonder what quantity it takes to make producing a certain block feasible (in the ~$100 price bracket)? Doing something like a Massdrop would be an interesting way to approach this "problem"?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Last time I checked, I thought EK has been manufacturing the Hydrocopper block for EVGA. Am I wrong?


Swiftech made the Kepler ones, EKWB made the Maxwell ones. I suspect one of the reasons why is the marketing maneuvers EVGA did for their more common third party PCB cards (Classified and Kingpin) and just how massively they backfired (GTX 980 Classified (and Kingpin) cards were plagued with BIOS and stability issues, and despite the price premium ($150-250 USD higher than reference!!!) waited to launch them until VERY close to the launch of the 980 Ti - GM204 Classified BIOS issues never were fully resolved... And then there was the outright fiasco with the GM200 Kingpin pricing, where it ranged from $200-450 USD above reference prices)..... I suspect a lot of that wound up in significantly lower sales for EKWB's custom full coverage blocks because people either couldn't afford waterblocks (because the cards were so expensive), or the fact that a month after the Classified came out they changed the VRMs and EK had to redo the waterblocks.

I'm guessing a number of those things were factors, plus a bunch of things that were behind the scenes and will remain behind the scenes, but having to redesign blocks shortly after they come out (and EKWB took a LOT of heat from various enthusiasts) resulting in increased costs, combined with low sales and people getting rather irate that the GM200 Classifieds had the same layout as the 780 Classified and how it supposedly wasn't full coverage (it covered the power VRMs, memory, and the core - EVGA told EKWB that the three memory VRMs didn't need cooling under normal use)......

Companies not making the sales they were expecting (especially with all the time, money, and effort that has to be put in before the product can even be sold) tend to make decisions based upon how finances are speaking.... If the MSI and Gigabyte blocks outsold the EVGA ones by a large margin, I can understand why I company would look at things and go "well, let's get blocks for those ones out, and then if we have the time and spare resources AND we're willing to take the risk, we'll contemplate that other company".


----------



## Asus11

how beneficial is EK-FB ASUS M8I Monoblock?

Im wondering if I would gain anything at all from getting this monoblock


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> how beneficial is EK-FB ASUS M8I Monoblock?
> 
> Im wondering if I would gain anything at all from getting this monoblock


I'll playfully say.... Sex appeal, and the VRMs will be cooled by your water loop.


----------



## stanielz

what would be the best way to connect 2 waterblocks using soft lines? just a 2 inch piece of soft tubing?


----------



## sdrawkcab

I have some questions about the EK Supremacy block. I like to take apart the blocks before using them and usually I am excited when I see the shiny copper or nickel plating. I've had a few EK cpu waterblocks in the past and I have enjoyed seeing them change over time to the designs being used now.

When taking apart the new EK Supremacy Evo X99 everything looked fine until I saw the jet plate. Some pictures are below, Is this normal? I am not sure if it was some form of oxidation or corrosion but it is all around the edges. I did buy the block new and was a bit surprised to see the jet plate look like it was used or damaged. I've never received any jet plates like this in the past EK cpu waterblocks I've purchased. I was going to use a different jet plate from older model block but this one was very thin compared to the others and I figure this one is the best for performance. I'm not trying to be picky, but from all my past purchases this just seemed out of place.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdrawkcab*
> When taking apart the new EK Supremacy Evo X99 everything looked fine until I saw the jet plate. Some pictures are below, Is this normal? I am not sure if it was some form of oxidation or corrosion but it is all around the edges.


Looks like normal discolouration from the laser cutter.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Looks like normal discolouration from the laser cutter.


Agreed. Is the part on the right pitted at all or just where some molten metal from the cutter landed and stained?


----------



## Touge180SX

@derickwm, any possible dates or guesses for the release of the ASUS Strix 1080 block? I saw it under compatibility finder now which is a good sign I'm guessing.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> @derickwm, any possible dates or guesses for the release of the ASUS Strix 1080 block? I saw it under compatibility finder now which is a good sign I'm guessing.


Hoping for late June!


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hoping for late June!


Awesome, I'll take the first one!!


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


How is it gonna flow?


----------



## sdrawkcab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Looks like normal discolouration from the laser cutter.


Thanks, did not know it was laser cut. I can understand that with it being so thin, I was worried I got a bad one out of the batch with the older plates looking so clean. I'll be happy if I can leave it in place without any issues down the road.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdrawkcab*
> 
> I have some questions about the EK Supremacy block. I like to take apart the blocks before using them and usually I am excited when I see the shiny copper or nickel plating. I've had a few EK cpu waterblocks in the past and I have enjoyed seeing them change over time to the designs being used now.
> 
> When taking apart the new EK Supremacy Evo X99 everything looked fine until I saw the jet plate. Some pictures are below, Is this normal? I am not sure if it was some form of oxidation or corrosion but it is all around the edges. I did buy the block new and was a bit surprised to see the jet plate look like it was used or damaged. I've never received any jet plates like this in the past EK cpu waterblocks I've purchased. I was going to use a different jet plate from older model block but this one was very thin compared to the others and I figure this one is the best for performance. I'm not trying to be picky, but from all my past purchases this just seemed out of place.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Looks like normal discolouration from the laser cutter.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdrawkcab*
> 
> Thanks, did not know it was laser cut. I can understand that with it being so thin, I was worried I got a bad one out of the batch with the older plates looking so clean. I'll be happy if I can leave it in place without any issues down the road.


Costas is right, the discoloration is from the laser cutting....you can be safe to use it like it.


----------



## Touge180SX

@akira749, do you happen to know if the upcoming EK block for the Asus Strix 1080 will support the RGB backplate that comes installed on it?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> @akira749, do you happen to know if the upcoming EK block for the Asus Strix 1080 will support the RGB backplate that comes installed on it?


I can't sorry. Maybe @EK_tiborrr can.


----------



## tiborrr12

Sadly it wont, at least not without modification of the Backplate (drilling). The problem is the backplate comes with threaded standoffs instead of just hole-through type ones. Their RAM/VRM aluminum cooling plate is attached from the front instead of from the back.. A real shame but such is life...


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Sadly it wont, at least not without modification of the Backplate (drilling). The problem is the backplate comes with threaded standoffs instead of just hole-through type ones. Their RAM/VRM aluminum cooling plate is attached from the front instead of from the back.. A real shame but such is life...


That sucks but such is life. Thanks for the answer!


----------



## outofmyheadyo

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-titan-x-acetal

I bought this blockused, but sadly it didnt come with any thermal pads, could I use the ones that are on the reference GTX 980Ti ?
If not what kind of thermal pads should I buy for it, it should be 0.5mm thick if I understand correctly?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-titan-x-acetal
> 
> I bought this blocked used, but sadly it didnt come with any thermal pads, could I use the ones that are on the reference GTX 980Ti ?
> If not what kind of thermal pads should I buy for it, it should be 0.5mm thick if I understand correctly?


I would not recommend it. Check the ek install manual for the size as it may differ from the stock cooler pad. Performance-pcs should have pad or check ebay. I also bought four used blocks (and two new ones







). The first two blocks had pads wirh tim (just no...) which i tossed and the other two have missing o-rings. I have a ton of pad left from older blocks when they used to give you a couple of large sheets and laptop-grade pad i bought off (chinese) ebay sellers.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Considering where I live that would mean like waiting for a week for those measly pads to get here


----------



## wermad

Thats the gamble you take when buying used; it maybe missing things or things are not what one expected.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Ill just see how it goes with the ref cooler ones, and if no luck ill order some.


----------



## tiborrr12

Check out this:https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109830550.pdf
Quote:


> Replacement thermal pads: Thermal Pad D - 0.5mm (RAM 8x), Thermal Pad A - 0,5 mm (100x16mm).


You will need 2x D and 2x A. Since these are no longer produced your alternative would be:
- 2x https://www.ekwb.com/shop/thermal-pad-e-0-5mm-ram-8x
- 2x https://www.ekwb.com/shop/thermal-pad-f-0-5mm-120x16mm


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thats the gamble you take when buying used; it maybe missing things or things are not what one expected.


Tell me about it. Bought a used 780 ti block and backplate off the fleaBay. I knew I would have to purchase new thermal pads, but I also ended up having to buy all new screws because they were missing (thank you MrMetric.com). It was also poorly packaged and two corners on the backplate arrived dinged. Not to mention all the red dye I had to clean out of it. After it was all said and done I saved maybe $5 over buying it new. Learned my lesson.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Tell me about it. Bought a used 780 ti block and backplate off the fleaBay. I knew I would have to purchase new thermal pads, but I also ended up having to buy all new screws because they were missing (thank you MrMetric.com). It was also poorly packaged and two corners on the backplate arrived dinged. Not to mention all the red dye I had to clean out of it. After it was all said and done I saved maybe $5 over buying it new. Learned my lesson.


need to take care who you buy from and use market place here to get better service. on the ebay purchase i would have files a case requesting money back. due to this and you would have at least got a discount due to it is cheaper to pay discount than shipping again!!!


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> need to take care who you buy from and use market place here to get better service. on the ebay purchase i would have files a case requesting money back. due to this and you would have at least got a discount due to it is cheaper to pay discount than shipping again!!!


I just call it lesson learned and move on. The block works just fine and you can't see the dinged corners with the cables in the way. I will just be purchasing my blocks new from here on out unless the deal is too good to pass up.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Check out this:https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109830550.pdf
> You will need 2x D and 2x A. Since these are no longer produced your alternative would be:
> - 2x https://www.ekwb.com/shop/thermal-pad-e-0-5mm-ram-8x
> - 2x https://www.ekwb.com/shop/thermal-pad-f-0-5mm-120x16mm


Thankyou!

One more sort of a nooby question about EK compression fittings, is it just finger tight or should i break out some tools ? For both pluggin them into the G1/4 and tightening the ring ?
I think it`s fingertight, but I am not all to sure.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Thankyou!
> 
> One more sort of a nooby question about EK compression fittings, is it just finger tight or should i break out some tools ? For both pluggin them into the G1/4 and tightening the ring ?
> I think it`s fingertight, but I am not all to sure.


Finger tight buit maybe use tools for putting the barbs into the G1/4 threads so you dont cut your thumbs


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Cheers, I hope it goes okay


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Cheers, I hope it goes okay


@outofmyheadyo Dont use tools for acrylic block!!! Over tightening them can cause them to crack!

(Sorry I forgot as I dont own any acrylic blocks!)


----------



## wermad

Tools and fittings dont mix. Too many horror stories of broken things.

By hand or wear mechanics gloves if you're sensative.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I`ll try by hand im not to much of a noodle finger and should manage to get em tight enough.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Those ek soft tubing compression fittings can be tough to get finger tight since the only place to grab is the short, sharp threads. I usually add about 1/8 turn past finger tight with the Allen wrench, haven't seen any damage on my evo top yet. I wouldn't recommend getting crazy with it though


----------



## RGSPro

When can we expect some official info from EK on this HB SLI Bridge they are working on? I'm holding off on waterblocks until I can make sure I can get an HB SLI Bridge to work with them.


----------



## SeeThruHead

I thought dominators were attached using thermal glue. Meaning you can't remove the heatspreader. I decided to return my dom GTS
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I`ll try by hand im not to much of a noodle finger and should manage to get em tight enough.


grip them with a piece of sponge


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> I thought dominators were attached using thermal glue. Meaning you can't remove the heatspreader. I decided to return my dom GTS
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I`ll try by hand im not to much of a noodle finger and should manage to get em tight enough.
> 
> 
> 
> grip them with a piece of sponge
Click to expand...

Not sure why you would want to remove the heatsinks unless they are platinums.

But if you have a heatgun or a toaster oven that heats approximately 100°, the thermal compound should loosen up enough to allow removal.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdrawkcab*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have some questions about the EK Supremacy block. I like to take apart the blocks before using them and usually I am excited when I see the shiny copper or nickel plating. I've had a few EK cpu waterblocks in the past and I have enjoyed seeing them change over time to the designs being used now.
> 
> When taking apart the new EK Supremacy Evo X99 everything looked fine until I saw the jet plate. Some pictures are below, Is this normal? I am not sure if it was some form of oxidation or corrosion but it is all around the edges. I did buy the block new and was a bit surprised to see the jet plate look like it was used or damaged. I've never received any jet plates like this in the past EK cpu waterblocks I've purchased. I was going to use a different jet plate from older model block but this one was very thin compared to the others and I figure this one is the best for performance. I'm not trying to be picky, but from all my past purchases this just seemed out of place.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My Jet that I installed the other day was exactly like yours. I inspected it, thought about it, and installed it anyway. Didn't feel as though anything would be effected.

On the subject of fittings that need to be tightened. Get them started by hand, If you are using Hardline in your build, once the tubing is inserted into the fitting, use the tube to tighten the fitting. I know that C47s will not let go of the tube, so using the tube to turn the fitting tight will work, of that I am 100% sure.

TCO


----------



## Nichismo

Finally, after almost half a year of letting it sit without activity, I got my machine back up and running.... still have alot of smaller little bells and whistles I need to add/finish but I can finally use it again. Alot more pictures to take/show as well...


----------



## wermad

Any one know where to find the terminal screws? I just discovered the two used blocks i bought from another forum not only shorted me the terminal o-rings, but he only included the port piece without the screws. According to the instructions, its M4x28mm and nothing came up on ebay. I don't wanna damage anything by sticking 30mm long screws I have on hand. Sigh, well, at least I picked up two new blocks that have everything. I'm gonna sell the copper ones which were the ones that have the missing bits, but I would prefer to sell them with the missing pieces.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any one know where to find the terminal screws? I just discovered the two used blocks i bought from another forum not only shorted me the terminal o-rings, but he only included the port piece without the screws. According to the instructions, its M4x28mm and nothing came up on ebay. I don't wanna damage anything by sticking 30mm long screws I have on hand. Sigh, well, at least I picked up two new blocks that have everything. I'm gonna sell the copper ones which were the ones that have the missing bits, but I would prefer to sell them with the missing pieces.


Try bolt depot


----------



## wermad

I only found 25 and 30 mm bolts









I know BlackIce radiators use this size, so that might be another option. I can also add some spacers to 30mm bolts

edit: Just tested some 25mm screws and they grab pretty solid.


----------



## trainplane3

What sort of temps should I (roughly) expect on a 6700k at 4.6ghz? I have a Supremacy MX block and a XSPC AX360 radiator cooling it with a Formula VIII block in the loop and I've hit 79c. At stock speeds I hit about 55c. Is this normal for Skylake? It seems hotter then my 4670k with the XSPC Raystorm on it.

On a sidenote, any one know any good sound dampening foam?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Check out this:https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109830550.pdf
> You will need 2x D and 2x A. Since these are no longer produced your alternative would be:
> - 2x https://www.ekwb.com/shop/thermal-pad-e-0-5mm-ram-8x
> - 2x https://www.ekwb.com/shop/thermal-pad-f-0-5mm-120x16mm
> 
> 
> 
> Thankyou!
> 
> One more sort of a nooby question about EK compression fittings, is it just finger tight or should i break out some tools ? For both pluggin them into the G1/4 and tightening the ring ?
> I think it`s fingertight, but I am not all to sure.
Click to expand...

Use allen keys when tightening compression fittings. 8mm for soft tubing and 9mm for hard tubing. We put the internal grips on them for this reason, it'll save you a lot of time, trouble and your fingers will love you. Just don't yank on them too ridiculously hard.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trainplane3*
> 
> What sort of temps should I (roughly) expect on a 6700k at 4.6ghz? I have a Supremacy MX block and a XSPC AX360 radiator cooling it with a Formula VIII block in the loop and I've hit 79c. At stock speeds I hit about 55c. Is this normal for Skylake? It seems hotter then my 4670k with the XSPC Raystorm on it.
> 
> On a sidenote, any one know any good sound dampening foam?


It's almost impossible to say what temps to "expect" without knowing more, like ambient temp, pump type and speed, fan speeds and configuration, etc. Give a full rundown of the loop and/or a pic would help, but I will say that imo those temps are way high, something is probably not right somewhere.


----------



## tistou77

Hello

Ek has planned waterblocks for "MOS" and "PCH" of the Asus Rampage V Edition 10 ?
Or is it the same as the Rampage V Extreme ?
I saw that it is the same MOS block for the Asus Strix

Thanks


----------



## trainplane3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> It's almost impossible to say what temps to "expect" without knowing more, like ambient temp, pump type and speed, fan speeds and configuration, etc. Give a full rundown of the loop and/or a pic would help, but I will say that imo those temps are way high, something is probably not right somewhere.


Right, I kind of expected an answer like that. I'll make a separate thread about this so I don't crap this one up. Luckily the GPU loop is good with temps topping out at 52c with 2 overclocked 980's.


----------



## Castaile

Hi guys

I'm perplexed in why my p8z77 motherboard wouldn't recognize my EK xres revo D5 PWM pump. So I've plugged the pump PWM connector to the CPU_Fan header and connected the molex cable, enabled CPU Q Fan Control in BIOS with standard profile and 600RPM as fan speed limit. The pump does work but I'm not getting any reading/control in Windows fan xpert.

What else am I missing?


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trainplane3*
> 
> What sort of temps should I (roughly) expect on a 6700k at 4.6ghz? I have a Supremacy MX block and a XSPC AX360 radiator cooling it with a Formula VIII block in the loop and I've hit 79c. At stock speeds I hit about 55c. Is this normal for Skylake? It seems hotter then my 4670k with the XSPC Raystorm on it.
> 
> On a sidenote, any one know any good sound dampening foam?


It is fine. You were just unlucky with the thickness of glue between ihs and cpu die. Thank the intel glue lottery, ive seen 4690k's with upwards of 15C difference on same cooling and voltage. Its one of the reasons i only buy hedt now.


----------



## sdrawkcab

Can someone share their experience on G1/4 LED in the EK RES X3? I am using a Mayhems X1 clear with some red dye, aurora booster, and would like to light up the reservoir with 2 LED. Ports #3 and #4 seem ideal to have the light go vertical but will ports #1 and #2 really limit the light to the bottom of the reservoir? The logo on the reservoir would be hidden if I used ports #1 and #2 in my setup so I used the extenders on #3 and #4 and some angled fittings. I do want the best amount of lighting in the reservoir but I need to find a way doing this without having a mess of fittings to make use of ports #1 and #2 while keeping the logo facing out. All advice helps!


----------



## stanneveld

Oh look another RED build. (cant blame me since Asus put's red stuff on it)



Oh and it goes nice with my new case


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanneveld*
> 
> Oh look another RED build. (cant blame me since Asus put's red stuff on it)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and it goes nice with my new case


That block sure does look beautiful!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdrawkcab*
> 
> Can someone share their experience on G1/4 LED in the EK RES X3? I am using a Mayhems X1 clear with some red dye, aurora booster, and would like to light up the reservoir with 2 LED. Ports #3 and #4 seem ideal to have the light go vertical but will ports #1 and #2 really limit the light to the bottom of the reservoir? The logo on the reservoir would be hidden if I used ports #1 and #2 in my setup so I used the extenders on #3 and #4 and some angled fittings. I do want the best amount of lighting in the reservoir but I need to find a way doing this without having a mess of fittings to make use of ports #1 and #2 while keeping the logo facing out. All advice helps!










My 210mm Barrow tube res barely lights up using BP (frosted) led plugs with xspc 5mm leds. I tried two different leds and both had the same outcome using distilled only. My guess is you may need more powerfull leds to make some sort of illumination.

Im sure someone else might chime in more info


----------



## MIGhunter

Anyone remember how to go about replacing fans from EK? I bought the extreme kit a while back and just finished my computer like a month or so ago. It sounds like crickets now. I think one of the fans has that issue that recalled them for. It's my daily computer which sucks. Should I just buy a new fan or try to RMA the one messed up?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Anyone remember how to go about replacing fans from EK? I bought the extreme kit a while back and just finished my computer like a month or so ago. It sounds like crickets now. I think one of the fans has that issue that recalled them for. It's my daily computer which sucks. Should I just buy a new fan or try to RMA the one messed up?


rma it, open up a ticket on EK's website.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> rma it, open up a ticket on EK's website.


Do you know if they do advanced RMAs? Can't really run my computer without the fan/fans.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Do you know if they do advanced RMAs? Can't really run my computer without the fan/fans.


when i bought my vardars from PPCs i had to rma one of them. I went through PPCs since i had just bought them, they got authorization for a replacement from EK and just sent me a new one. Didn't need to return the bad fan. Not sure if thats how EK will do it, only way to find out is to open a ticket. I keep old fans for this exact scenario where i may have to go without a fan for a period of time. Fortunately i haven't needed to.


----------



## Enapace

Is there a compatible waterblock for this

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ocuk-geforce-gtx-970-nvidia-970-cooler-edition-4096mb-gddr5-pci-express-graphics-card-gx-205-ok.html


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Is there a compatible waterblock for this
> 
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ocuk-geforce-gtx-970-nvidia-970-cooler-edition-4096mb-gddr5-pci-express-graphics-card-gx-205-ok.html


Based off of Nvidia Reference



TCO

I appears so.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah the reference 980 blocks work on them

In the future go to coolingconfigurator.com


----------



## Enapace

Sorry didn't mean annoy anyone.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Sorry didn't mean annoy anyone.


Don't worry, that's what this thread is here for. So ask away


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Don't worry, that's what this thread is here for. So ask away


Thanks just been looking at options either keeping my 970 and watercooling that and waiting till 1080Ti or getting 2 MSI 1080 Aero and Watercooling them. Wanting to build my first custom loop very soon.


----------



## wermad

Kewl









Waiting a bit and I'll start putting my quad 980 Ti setup. I got the blocks, just need em cards but too busy right now for that


----------



## Ceadderman

Honestly, I would sit on 9** series and skip 1080/1070 series unless you're out to set a world record with LN2. But that's just me. From everything I have seen(YouTube Commando here







), 10** series won't be giving 9** series fits of jelly.









This of course being that you're already on 980** card(s). If you're still somehow on Fermi or 7** series then by all means get it if you can afford it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Honestly, I would sit on 9** series and skip 1080/1070 series unless you're out to set a world record with LN2. But that's just me. From everything I have seen(YouTube Commando here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), 10** series won't be giving 9** series fits of jelly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It was more due to fact that I want move to 1440p and know a 970 would struggle with that.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Honestly, I would sit on 9** series and skip 1080/1070 series unless you're out to set a world record with LN2. But that's just me. From everything I have seen(YouTube Commando here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), 10** series won't be giving 9** series fits of jelly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was more due to fact that I want move to 1440p and know a 970 would struggle with that.
Click to expand...

Save some money and get a 980 sell the 970 and yer golden.









~Ceadder


----------



## RebelHell

I'm still rockin' my 780 ti on 1440p. Just got Doom and I get 55-60 FPS (V-Sync...might go higher?) with all High settings. Don't see much need for an upgrade just yet. I spent $700 on that card. Most expensive one I've ever owned and I am gonna squeeze every bit of use out of it I can.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Probably no evga non-ref this generation.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Honestly, I would sit on 9** series and skip 1080/1070 series unless you're out to set a world record with LN2. But that's just me. From everything I have seen(YouTube Commando here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), 10** series won't be giving 9** series fits of jelly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This of course being that you're already on 980** card(s). If you're still somehow on Fermi or 7** series then by all means get it if you can afford it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm upgrading to a 1080 only because I was able to sell my 970 for more than I paid for it. Gotta love when the dollar is strong and the exchange rate was on my side here in Japan!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Honestly, I would sit on 9** series and skip 1080/1070 series unless you're out to set a world record with LN2. But that's just me. From everything I have seen(YouTube Commando here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), 10** series won't be giving 9** series fits of jelly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This of course being that you're already on 980** card(s). If you're still somehow on Fermi or 7** series then by all means get it if you can afford it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Everyone said this about the 780ti's compared to the then new 980s... then the tables turned. You have to remember that the drivers etc are all pretty new and we're still getting a feel for the new tech. I'm upgrading, don't see why I shouldn't in all honesty.


----------



## xaxas

Sorry if i should'nt ask there here but I am thinking of doing a custom build where would I buy EK products in the US their website or?
Also I have a gigabyte 980ti g1 and a i7 6700k idk if it would be better to try to get a kit from their website then a 980ti g1 block or what.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xaxas*
> 
> Sorry if i should'nt ask there here but I am thinking of doing a custom build where would I buy EK products in the US their website or?
> Also I have a gigabyte 980ti g1 and a i7 6700k idk if it would be better to try to get a kit from their website then a 980ti g1 block or what.


Performance-pcs.com
Shop.ekwb.com
Microcenter

If your new to it then I highly recommend a kit. EK makes the best kits hands down, and a lot of us got our start there. You can always add your gpu aND another radiator later once you get some experience with the kit.


----------



## xaxas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Performance-pcs.com
> Shop.ekwb.com
> Microcenter
> 
> If your new to it then I highly recommend a kit. EK makes the best kits hands down, and a lot of us got our start there. You can always add your gpu aND another radiator later once you get some experience with the kit.


Thank you, I'll check into that. I have an aio liquid cooler atm but wanting to upgrade to a custom loop and take the time to trial and error acrylic or e22 tubing bending as well


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xaxas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Performance-pcs.com
> Shop.ekwb.com
> Microcenter
> 
> If your new to it then I highly recommend a kit. EK makes the best kits hands down, and a lot of us got our start there. You can always add your gpu aND another radiator later once you get some experience with the kit.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, I'll check into that. I have an aio liquid cooler atm but wanting to upgrade to a custom loop and take the time to trial and error acrylic or e22 tubing bending as well
Click to expand...

A kit will give great experience getting the loop up and running with soft tubing. Then you can plan and practice the move to rigid tubing, and will be much less learning curve and make it easier to transition.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Sorry didn't mean annoy anyone.


Just was giving you a tidbit of info for future reference on cards, I use that site at least twice a week lol

And on the 9** cards I was thinking of just going 980ti instead of 1080/1070, but might try out a 480 or two to see how they really perform


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Sorry didn't mean annoy anyone.
> 
> 
> 
> Just was giving you a tidbit of info for future reference on cards, I use that site at least twice a week lol
> 
> And on the 9** cards I was thinking of just going 980ti instead of 1080/1070, but might try out a 480 or two to see how they really perform
Click to expand...

Speaking of 480, can anyone from EK confirm plans for a block for it?

The 480 looks really really inticing. Even if it's not a 1080 I think AMD has positioned it very attractively at that price for the performance it seems to have.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Speaking of 480, can anyone from EK confirm plans for a block for it?
> 
> The 480 looks really really inticing. Even if it's not a 1080 I think AMD has positioned it very attractively at that price for the performance it seems to have.


Yes we should have blocks for the 480


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Ek has planned waterblocks for "MOS" and "PCH" of the Asus Rampage V Edition 10 ?
> Or is it the same as the Rampage V Extreme ?
> I saw that it is the same MOS block for the Asus Strix
> 
> Thanks


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Speaking of 480, can anyone from EK confirm plans for a block for it?
> 
> The 480 looks really really inticing. Even if it's not a 1080 I think AMD has positioned it very attractively at that price for the performance it seems to have.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes we should have blocks for the 480
Click to expand...

Awesome! Thanks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Honestly, I would sit on 9** series and skip 1080/1070 series unless you're out to set a world record with LN2. But that's just me. From everything I have seen(YouTube Commando here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), 10** series won't be giving 9** series fits of jelly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This of course being that you're already on 980** card(s). If you're still somehow on Fermi or 7** series then by all means get it if you can afford it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Shame about Pascal and the whole 2way thing. I guess it was inevitable.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Shame about Pascal and the whole 2way thing. I guess it was inevitable.


You can do more than 2 way SLI with the 1070/1080.


----------



## VSG

Until the Enthusiast Key is up, I don't care what he or anyone else says.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> You can do more than 2 way SLI with the 1070/1080.


I know about the key, but its not putting enthusiasts first imho. Im sticking with Maxwell (Ti's) next and go amd afterwards if they still support 4/quad.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Ello ole chaps! Just wanted to post some pics from my new Enthoo Primo build. Two days and it's already getting dusty from the rear 140mm fan intaking air. Time to buy a dust filter for the rear!! Was thinking about going with the hard tubing this time around, but I'm never really been too interested in it so I decided to try out the EK matte black tubing and love how it looks. None of the reservoir mounting points fit the EK X-Res bracket so I had to drill some holes in the bracket. I was limited with mounting options for it because of the overkill amount of rad space so I was forced to put it next to the motherboard. Surprisingly it doesn't touch the GPU even though it looks like it does. Next time I take apart the loop I'm going to drill some new holes to move the whole X-Res assembly to the right a bit.



Spoiler: Specs



Phanteks Enthoo Primo
Gigabyte G1 Gaming 7
Intel i7 6700k
EVGA SC+ 980 Ti
Samsung 840 SSD

EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black Tubing
Monsoon Black Chrome Fittings
EK Gigabyte Z170 Monoblock
EK Acetal GTX 980 Ti Waterblock
EK GTX 980 Ti back plate
EK X-Res 140
Swiftech MCP655
Alphacool 240mm ST30
Alphacool 360mm UT60
Alphacool 420mm XT45





Spoiler: Overclocks/Temps



Delidded i7 6700k @ 1.21v/4.4Ghz
Max Temps- 46C
Max Stable OC- 4.7Ghz @ 1.36v
980 Ti @ 1.25v 1550/7800
Max Temps- 41C


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Until the Enthusiast Key is up, I don't care what he or anyone else says.


Totally this. They aren't even giving people an ETA as to when one will be able to get an enthusiast key either, which by most definitions of things means it's on par with vapourware, at least in my eyes.


----------



## MegaTheJohny

@Akira749 or someone from EK team, I have 2 questions.
Is it possible to use my reference GTX 980 EK waterblock, for the new GTX 1080 founders edition?

I am looking for cheapest GTX 1080 card, and I think this one from EVGA is cheapest one. http://eu.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=08G-P4-6181-KR
So my second question would be if I can use EK waterblock for EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 ACX 3.0 (I think this card has founders edition PCB ) ? is EK GTX 1080 WB compatible with this card?

thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> @Akira749 or someone from EK team, I have 2 questions.
> Is it possible to use my reference GTX 980 EK waterblock, for the new GTX 1080 founders edition?
> 
> I am looking for cheapest GTX 1080 card, and I think this one from EVGA is cheapest one. http://eu.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=08G-P4-6181-KR
> So my second question would be if I can use EK waterblock for EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 ACX 3.0 (I think this card has founders edition PCB ) ? is EK GTX 1080 WB compatible with this card?
> 
> thanks


Hi,

No, the 980 block won't fit on the 1080 unfortunately.

Yes, the 6181 is compatible with our 1080 block


----------



## Enapace

Think the MSI Aero is the cheapest 1080 with a reference PCB Board or the KFA2/Galax Reference Blower one.

Would assume they would fit the EK 1080 block I'm considering the MSI Aero myself seems pointless pay about £100 more for just a cooler that will be taken off.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Think the MSI Aero is the cheapest 1080 with a reference PCB Board or the PNY/Galax Reference Blower one.
> 
> Would assume they would fit the EK 1080 block I'm considering the MSI Aero myself seems pointless pay about £100 more for just a cooler that will be taken off.


Yep the MSI Aero is compatible









https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/waterblock/3831109831274


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yep the MSI Aero is compatible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/waterblock/3831109831274


Is there any ETA on when the other coloured back plates for 1080 will be available I know they were announced when the blocks were.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Is there any ETA on when the other coloured back plates for 1080 will be available I know they were announced when the blocks were.


We hope to have them next week.


----------



## nyk20z3

I have a question about the Revo D5 EK pump. I have the EK-XRES 100 REVO D5 PWM combo and i am not getting any rpm signal from the mobo to the pump so i cant control the speed. I have a Asus Impact VIII so i only have a cpu header + 1 additional fan header and i have tried both with no success. I even adjusted to PWM mode in the bios instead of auto and i still get no signal whats so ever it just runs full throttle. In Asus ai suite i also get no readings and the cpu header just comes up as N/A. I have done a little research and noticed this is a common issue on various PWM D5 pumps but with no real fixes for the issue.

Can this be an EK pump issue or is it very common across the board for D5 PWM pumps ?


----------



## Castaile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> I have a question about the Revo D5 EK pump. I have the EK-XRES 100 REVO D5 PWM combo and i am not getting any rpm signal from the mobo to the pump so i cant control the speed. I have a Asus Impact VIII so i only have a cpu header + 1 additional fan header and i have tried both with no success. I even adjusted to PWM mode in the bios instead of auto and i still get no signal whats so ever it just runs full throttle. In Asus ai suite i also get no readings and the cpu header just comes up as N/A. I have done a little research and noticed this is a common issue on various PWM D5 pumps but with no real fixes for the issue.
> 
> Can this be an EK pump issue or is it very common across the board for D5 PWM pumps ?


I have the same problem with my P8zZ77 V pro cpu fan header with the Xres 140 REVO D5 Pwm. The 4 pin cpu fan header works fine with EK's PWM vardar fans but I don't get any control/readings from the pump.

I've talked with EK's CS support and were able to arrange a RMA.

But that means draining the system and doing some dissembling -_-


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> You can do more than 2 way SLI with the 1070/1080.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know about the key, but its not putting enthusiasts first imho. Im sticking with Maxwell (Ti's) next and go amd afterwards if they still support 4/quad.
Click to expand...

Stoopid stoopid stoopid.

"Not supporting 3/4way SLi folks"

"But! You can get a key from us which is not yet available."

Yeah that sounds like I would want to throw my money at any manufacturer who doesn't COMMUNICATE with the parties it relies on.

Why nVidia didn't have the keys pre-built and passed about to their Enthusiast Card Manufacturers is beyond me. Simple fix, poor execution.

Before anyone chalks this up to my inner fanboi speaking out, I would feel the same way no matter who the developer is. Be it ASUS, Corsair etc.

Because at the end of the day, it's we Enthusiasts who buy the flame thrower products and impact their sales via word of mouth etc.

I see the DX12 issue hitting AMD too, but their execution seems to be better than nVidia's. I mean, wow, don't they know that most early adopters of DX12 are Enthusiasts?









~Ceadder


----------



## ZetFury

What's the ETA on full cover for MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X?

https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=2001


----------



## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZetFury*
> 
> What's the ETA on full cover for MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=2001


Good Question i also Want to Know when they Release it ... I Want to buy THe msi1080 and i dont Want to leave it for to Long under wir Colling







hope they make ist available on Launch day of THe Msi ( isnt that june 16th ? )


----------



## dfw-buzzkill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oO-Waschbaer-Oo*
> 
> Good Question i also Want to Know when they Release it ... I Want to buy THe msi1080 and i dont Want to leave it for to Long under wir Colling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope they make ist available on Launch day of THe Msi ( isnt that june 16th ? )


Aparently they sold some on newegg earlier tonight.....definitely the most interested in msi's offerings.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZetFury*
> 
> What's the ETA on full cover for MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=2001


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oO-Waschbaer-Oo*
> 
> Good Question i also Want to Know when they Release it ... I Want to buy THe msi1080 and i dont Want to leave it for to Long under wir Colling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope they make ist available on Launch day of THe Msi ( isnt that june 16th ? )


No official ETA on the non-reference blocks for Asus, MSI and Gigabyte but they should be available within this month or in July if everything goes well.


----------



## Touge180SX

@akira749, any possible pictures (even just prototype) of the ASUS Strix and MSI Gaming X blocks? Interested to know what writing is on the front of each mainly.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> @akira749, any possible pictures (even just prototype) of the ASUS Strix and MSI Gaming X blocks? Interested to know what writing is on the front of each mainly.


Sorry no. I didn't even see anything yet myself.


----------



## testplsignore

Any updates on the rumoured EK SLI Bridge?

Or does the EVGA V2 one fit?


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No, the mounting screws must be hand tightened until the end of the thread. But like you said, the issues can come by the over tightening of the nuts over the springs. If you un-tight them by a quarter of a turn, does the issue completely go away?


Sorry for the late reply and thanks for answering my question








The block doesn't have mounting screws, it's en evo supremacy X99 version.
And yes, it's been stable ever since I loosened the screws. They're only in by 2 full turns.
Now I can use all my memory plus no random reboots so I'm happy


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> Sorry for the late reply and thanks for answering my question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The block doesn't have mounting screws, it's en evo supremacy X99 version.
> And yes, it's been stable ever since I loosened the screws. They're only in by 2 full turns.
> Now I can use all my memory plus no random reboots so I'm happy


Awesome


----------



## JCArch

Anyone know if/where it's possible to track down a plexi XTOP? I have a couple of spare D5 pumps and would really like to have one for my new BH2 build I'm going to be tackling, but don't want to shell out the $100+ for the pump/top combo.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Anyone know if/where it's possible to track down a plexi XTOP? I have a couple of spare D5 pumps and would really like to have one for my new BH2 build I'm going to be tackling, but don't want to shell out the $100+ for the pump/top combo.


You mean this? EK-XTOP Revo D5 - Plexi


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Sorry no. I didn't even see anything yet myself.


Thanks @akira749! Time for you to sneek some pics and post them for us!


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You mean this? EK-XTOP Revo D5 - Plexi


I was looking for the square EOL version, but maybe I'll branch out and pick one of those up instead! Thanks


----------



## Sem

Can anyone who has or used the EK ZMT tubing confirm how visible the branding is as its quite visible on the official product image

currently using primochill glossy black but i really like the look of the matt black with the ZMT but not if its got yellow text on it


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Can anyone who has or used the EK ZMT tubing confirm how visible the branding is as its quite visible on the official product image
> 
> currently using primochill glossy black but i really like the look of the matt black with the ZMT but not if its got yellow text on it


I have absolutely no visible branding on any of my ZMT. Not sure why its on the product picture. My ZMT is a couple of years old so maybe they changed it...?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I've never seen any form of branding on it straight out of a retail package in the store
I plan on snagging some zmt myself too, and I'll be using the EVO fluid after I flush the Mayhems x1 out


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Getting closer

TCO


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Can anyone who has or used the EK ZMT tubing confirm how visible the branding is as its quite visible on the official product image
> 
> currently using primochill glossy black but i really like the look of the matt black with the ZMT but not if its got yellow text on it


I have no branding on my tubing, either.


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer
> 
> TCO


GPU in parallel with CPU. Interesting.


----------



## andrej124

If you are still undecided on your GTX 1080, this might help you










*Graphics Card**EK Water Block model**Availability*MSI® GeForce® GTX 1080 GAMING X 8G*EK-FC1080 GTX TF6*Late June '16GIGAGYTE® GeForce® GTX 1080 G1 Gaming*EK-FC1080 GTX G1*Late June '16ASUS® GeForce® GTX 1080 Strix*EK-FC1080 GTX Strix*Late June '16PALIT® GeForce® GTX 1080 JetStream*EK-FC1080 GTX JetStream*Mid July '16EVGA® GeForce® GTX 1080 FTW GAMING ACX 3.0*EK-FC1080 GTX FTW*Late July '16EVGA® GeForce® GTX 1080 Classified*EK-FC1080 GTX Classy*Late July '16


----------



## Touge180SX

Sweet @andrejEKWB! So there are gonna be some EVGA blocks. You have any pictures of the Strix block?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> If you are still undecided on your GTX 1080, this might help you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Graphics Card**EK Water Block model**Availability*MSI® GeForce® GTX 1080 GAMING X 8G*EK-FC1080 GTX TF6*Late June '16GIGAGYTE® GeForce® GTX 1080 G1 Gaming*EK-FC1080 GTX G1*Late June '16ASUS® GeForce® GTX 1080 Strix*EK-FC1080 GTX Strix*Late June '16PALIT® GeForce® GTX 1080 JetStream*EK-FC1080 GTX JetStream*Mid July '16EVGA® GeForce® GTX 1080 FTW GAMING ACX 3.0*EK-FC1080 GTX FTW*Late July '16EVGA® GeForce® GTX 1080 Classified*EK-FC1080 GTX Classy*Late July '16


----------



## akira749

EK releases new XTOP SPC liquid cooling pump!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> If you are still undecided on your GTX 1080, this might help you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You guys are doing an FTW block this round? Interesting to say the least!
> 
> *Graphics Card**EK Water Block model**Availability*MSI® GeForce® GTX 1080 GAMING X 8G*EK-FC1080 GTX TF6*Late June '16GIGAGYTE® GeForce® GTX 1080 G1 Gaming*EK-FC1080 GTX G1*Late June '16ASUS® GeForce® GTX 1080 Strix*EK-FC1080 GTX Strix*Late June '16PALIT® GeForce® GTX 1080 JetStream*EK-FC1080 GTX JetStream*Mid July '16EVGA® GeForce® GTX 1080 FTW GAMING ACX 3.0*EK-FC1080 GTX FTW*Late July '16EVGA® GeForce® GTX 1080 Classified*EK-FC1080 GTX Classy*Late July '16


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> GPU in parallel with CPU. Interesting.


Thought I would try something different this time around.

TCO


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Thought I would try something different this time around.
> 
> TCO


I would have been worried about getting reduced flow in the block with the higher restriction. If I recall my physics I'd expect flow rates inversely proportional to the restriction of the respective blocks. It will be interesting to know how it works out. But I tend to overthink things and in practical application it might not matter.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> I would have been worried about getting reduced flow in the block with the higher restriction. If I recall my physics I'd expect flow rates inversely proportional to the restriction of the respective blocks. It will be interesting to know how it works out. But I tend to overthink things and in practical application it might not matter.


No, You are on to something, as the flow of the Fluid could be impeded by itself in this case.

I was very concerned creating the loop in this manner, due to the fluid from the GPU going into the CPU. This will cause heat from one component to another being directly shared (For Lack of Better Words)

The One thing I have noticed running the loop as such, is that the flow is very good. I have no flow meter on it, though I am using 2 x 360mm Rads in the loop.

Stress tested last night.

The 5820k At 4.2Ghz with 1.2 Core V / 15min Stress test with Asus Realbench. 63C Was max. Need to download Precision X to monitor GPU temps.

TCO


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Can anyone who has or used the EK ZMT tubing confirm how visible the branding is as its quite visible on the official product image
> 
> currently using primochill glossy black but i really like the look of the matt black with the ZMT but not if its got yellow text on it


There is branding on mine but its not visible unless you get very close so i wouldnt be worried about it.


----------



## AllGamer

Hi,
I'm hoping to become a new EK member soon









After many years of using AIO for CPU / Video cards, I finally see the light at the end of the tunnel









while AIO are easy to use it really sucks if you want to Expand to more areas.

So this time around I'm thinking of going full EK for a true water rig

I was at the EK website adding stuff left and right to place my order only to realize I'm still missing a bunch of pieces.

This is the system I'm planning to setup:

Rig = EK-KIT S120 or EK-KIT S240 (I like the low profile Radiator, as the LanBoy Air case is rather compact) in reality I want to use the EK-KIT X240, but no sure where to fit that huge Rad inside the LanBoyAir case.

Between the main Pump, Reservoir, CPU block, and Rad... I'll need probably some sort of a Y split? to send water to the Video cards? and I don't know which parts I need for that.

Two GTX 1080 FE SLI = two EK-FC1080 GTX - Nickel (but I don't know what parts I need to connect both cards)

GA-Z170X-Gaming G1 Motherboard has built-in watercooler ready, but not sure which fittings are necessary to hook it up to the EK kits.



"Water Cooling Ready Heatsink Design with *G1/4 Threaded Fittings*"

Does that mean anything to you guys? I'm totally newb in the Pro water area, so I've no clue what size is a G1/4 or if that is compatible with the EK sizes.

I'm not worry about the CPU block since that's universal fit, and it's already included with the Kits.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Hi,
> I'm hoping to become a new EK member soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After many years of using AIO for CPU / Video cards, I finally see the light at the end of the tunnel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> while AIO are easy to use it really sucks if you want to Expand to more areas.
> 
> So this time around I'm thinking of going full EK for a true water rig
> 
> I was at the EK website adding stuff left and right to place my order only to realize I'm still missing a bunch of pieces.
> 
> This is the system I'm planning to setup:
> 
> Rig = EK-KIT S120 or EK-KIT S240 (I like the low profile Radiator, as the LanBoy Air case is rather compact) in reality I want to use the EK-KIT X240, but no sure where to fit that huge Rad inside the LanBoyAir case.
> 
> Between the main Pump, Reservoir, CPU block, and Rad... I'll need probably some sort of a Y split? to send water to the Video cards? and I don't know which parts I need for that.
> 
> Two GTX 1080 FE SLI = two EK-FC1080 GTX - Nickel (but I don't know what parts I need to connect both cards)
> 
> GA-Z170X-Gaming G1 Motherboard has built-in watercooler ready, but not sure which fittings are necessary to hook it up to the EK kits.
> 
> 
> 
> "Water Cooling Ready Heatsink Design with *G1/4 Threaded Fittings*"
> 
> Does that mean anything to you guys? I'm totally newb in the Pro water area, so I've no clue what size is a G1/4 or if that is compatible with the EK sizes.
> 
> I'm not worry about the CPU block since that's universal fit, and it's already included with the Kits.


G1/4 is the industry standard threading for watercooling, you will be golden!







If you add anything, just make sure you get fitting that say G1/4 also.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> G1/4 is the industry standard threading for watercooling, you will be golden!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you add anything, just make sure you get fitting that say G1/4 also.


Thanks, but what about the fitting / bridge / tubes I need for the Nvidia SLI setup?

I'm still not quite sure which is the actual part number for that.

and does the start kit includes the "Y / T split" necessary for the CPU and VGA cooling?

I believe that will be sold separately if I'm not mistaken.

I'm still trying to get the hang of the lingo for the WC stuff


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Thanks, but what about the fitting / bridge / tubes I need for the Nvidia SLI setup?
> 
> I'm still not quite sure which is the actual part number for that.
> 
> and does the start kit includes the "Y / T split" necessary for the CPU and VGA cooling?
> 
> I believe that will be sold separately if I'm not mistaken.
> 
> I'm still trying to get the hang of the lingo for the WC stuff


Here is the link to the EK stuff for linking multiple GPU's. There is a lot to choose from so just read and do some research. I have never ran SLI watercooled so I will leave this to another member here who is more well versed in this setup.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/water-blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Here is the link to the EK stuff for linking multiple GPU's. There is a lot to choose from so just read and do some research. I have never ran SLI watercooled so I will leave this to another member here who is more well versed in this setup.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/water-blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity


Thank you!

That's exactly it, it's kind of hard looking for stuff you don't even know what it's called









Now I just need to find some of those T shape fittings to split the water flow.


----------



## done12many2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Rig = EK-KIT S120 or EK-KIT S240 (I like the low profile Radiator, as the LanBoy Air case is rather compact) in reality I want to use the EK-KIT X240, but no sure where to fit that huge Rad inside the LanBoyAir case.


How many and what size rads are you looking to use? I think you may be overestimating the capabilities of these particular kits.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> That's exactly it, it's kind of hard looking for stuff you don't even know what it's called
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just need to find some of those T shape fittings to split the water flow.


Here are some t-fitting options:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/shopby/fitting-type--splitter/


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *done12many2*
> 
> How many and what size rads are you looking to use? I think you may be overestimating the capabilities of these particular kits.


I know the 120 slim is probably too small to handle 2 video card + CPU + motherboard's powerblock heatsink
Size wise, that would have been perfect as I currently have the Corsair H80 AIO in that spot.

The top of the case has a clearance of 1" (20mm)
I'm hoping the Slim 240 Radiator would fit in that spot, then pass the tubes into the case through the WC holes for tubes.

If the Slim 240 Rad is bigger than 1" then i'll probaly just go full way, and get the Extreme 240 kit (EK-KIT X240)

The case is not tall enough to fit a 360 Radiator even if i mount it in the front area where the HDD usually goes, as I need 3 of the 5.25 slots for a Hot Swap HDD cage.

If I do get the EK-KIT X240 I was planning to floor it in the HDD area, with the Reservoir right behind the Rad + Fans


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Here is the link to the EK stuff for linking multiple GPU's. There is a lot to choose from so just read and do some research. I have never ran SLI watercooled so I will leave this to another member here who is more well versed in this setup.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/water-blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> That's exactly it, it's kind of hard looking for stuff you don't even know what it's called
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just need to find some of those T shape fittings to split the water flow.
Click to expand...

You don't want to split the flow, you want to run all components in serial to each other, like this:

Res>pump>rad>cpu>gpu>res

Now it doesn't have to be that exact order but you get the idea, all components are in a serial loop.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> You don't want to split the flow, you want to run all components in serial to each other, like this:
> 
> Res>pump>rad>cpu>gpu>res
> 
> Now it doesn't have to be that exact order but you get the idea, all components are in a serial loop.


Concur. I was under the assumption that it was for a drain port or something. Should be run as one big loop.


----------



## done12many2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> I know the 120 slim is probably too small to handle 2 video card + CPU + motherboard's powerblock heatsink
> Size wise, that would have been perfect as I currently have the Corsair H80 AIO in that spot.
> 
> The top of the case has a clearance of 1" (20mm)
> I'm hoping the Slim 240 Radiator would fit in that spot, then pass the tubes into the case through the WC holes for tubes.
> 
> If the Slim 240 Rad is bigger than 1" then i'll probaly just go full way, and get the Extreme 240 kit (EK-KIT X240)
> 
> The case is not tall enough to fit a 360 Radiator even if i mount it in the front area where the HDD usually goes, as I need 3 of the 5.25 slots for a Hot Swap HDD cage.
> 
> If I do get the EK-KIT X240 I was planning to floor it in the HDD area, with the Reservoir right behind the Rad + Fans


2 x video cards, 1 x CPU block, and 1 x VRM block is entirely too much for one 240mm rad. Can you do it, sure, but be prepared to run a couple of 3,000 RPM fans at full speed even under moderate load conditions. I wouldn't even consider 480mm enough, but some folks say that is adequate for your configuration.

You really should rethink your total rad surface area or drop some blocks from the list.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *done12many2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> I know the 120 slim is probably too small to handle 2 video card + CPU + motherboard's powerblock heatsink
> Size wise, that would have been perfect as I currently have the Corsair H80 AIO in that spot.
> 
> The top of the case has a clearance of 1" (20mm)
> I'm hoping the Slim 240 Radiator would fit in that spot, then pass the tubes into the case through the WC holes for tubes.
> 
> If the Slim 240 Rad is bigger than 1" then i'll probaly just go full way, and get the Extreme 240 kit (EK-KIT X240)
> 
> The case is not tall enough to fit a 360 Radiator even if i mount it in the front area where the HDD usually goes, as I need 3 of the 5.25 slots for a Hot Swap HDD cage.
> 
> If I do get the EK-KIT X240 I was planning to floor it in the HDD area, with the Reservoir right behind the Rad + Fans
> 
> 
> 
> 2 x video cards, 1 x CPU block, and 1 x VRM block is entirely too much for one 240mm rad. Can you do it, sure, but be prepared to run a couple of 3,000 RPM fans at full speed even under moderate load conditions. I wouldn't even consider 480mm enough, but some folks say that is adequate for your configuration.
> 
> You really should rethink your total rad surface area or drop some blocks from the list.
Click to expand...

What done12many2 just wrote cannot be repeated enough in all caps. You need more raddage!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> You don't want to split the flow, you want to run all components in serial to each other, like this:
> 
> Res>pump>rad>cpu>gpu>res
> 
> Now it doesn't have to be that exact order but you get the idea, all components are in a serial loop.


and to add to this, you DO always want the pump to be immediately after the reservoir.


----------



## AllGamer

Thank you guys, all very valuable information

Seems Like I need to go back to the drawing boards, and rethink my cooling flow loop and thermal dissipation surface.

and *done12many2* nailed it perfectly, the Whole reason why I like liquid cooling vs. Air, because it's quiet!, if using a 240 needs 3000 rpm fans, then that defeats the purpose.

....

So, reviewing the layout I could do with a EK-KIT X240 as the base,
mounted in the front of the case in the HDD area both the reservoir and 240mm Radiator will go there,

from the front it will first flow up to the top of the case to meet the 240mm Radiator #2 (slim version),
then it will flow down to its immediate neighbour 120mm Radiator #3 (also slim version) at the rear inside the case.

Then for efficiency all that Cold liquid should probably first go to the i7 CPU block,
then from the CPU to the VRM block,
then from the VRM block to video card 1
then video card 2
and back into the reservoir and Radiators.

while the above sounds logical
physically the tubing layout is not quite right

the last jump from the VRM block to the video card 1 is quite far, and it goes over the CPU again,

so maybe it's best for the Cold water to first go into the VRM block it goes from mid-left to top-center of the motherboard,
then it can come down in a very short tube to the CPU block,
then from the CPU to the video card1 is also a short distance away,
which then goes to video card2
and everything goes back to the reservoir 1st + 2nd + 3rd radiators for the whole loop to go again.









Now I'm back in the EK website hunting for all the part numbers









240mm + 240mm + 120mm = 600mm surface area for Radiator, that should be enough, right?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Thank you guys, all very valuable information
> 
> Seems Like I need to go back to the drawing boards, and rethink my cooling flow loop and thermal dissipation surface.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So, reviewing the layout I could do with a EK-KIT X240 as the base,
> mounted in the front of the case in the HDD area both the reservoir and 240mm Radiator will go there,
> 
> 
> 
> from the front it will first flow up to the top of the case to meet the 240mm Radiator #2 (slim version),
> then it will flow down to its immediate neighbour 120mm Radiator #3 (also slim version) at the rear inside the case.
> 
> Then for efficiency all that Cold liquid should probably first go to the i7 CPU block,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> then from the CPU to the VRM block,
> then from the VRM block to video card 1
> then video card 2
> and back into the reservoir and Radiators.
> 
> while the above sounds logical
> physically the tubing layout is not quite right
> 
> the last jump from the VRM block to the video card 1 is quite far, and it goes over the CPU again,
> 
> 
> 
> so maybe it's best for the Cold water to first go into the VRM block it goes from mid-left to top-center of the motherboard,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> then it can come down in a very short tube to the CPU block,
> then from the CPU to the video card1 is also a short distance away,
> which then goes to video card2
> and everything goes back to the reservoir 1st + 2nd + 3rd radiators for the whole loop to go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm back in the EK website hunting for all the part numbers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 240mm + 240mm + 120mm = 600mm surface area for Radiator, that should be enough, right?


I would suggest ditching the 120mm rad and make the two 240 rads intake and use the rear as a dedicated exhaust. That way you are pulling the coolest air possible over the rads. It is working very well in my case. Water temperature equalizes over the loop, so concern yourself more over the best looking, most efficient layout, as opposed to the minor differences each component my make to temperature.


----------



## AllGamer

ok, so I just came up with this, pardon the horrible hand drawings









I believe this should work right?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I would suggest ditching the 120mm rad and make the two 240 rads intake and use the rear as a dedicated exhaust. That way you are pulling the coolest air possible over the rads. It is working very well in my case. Water temperature equalizes over the loop, so concern yourself more over the best looking, most efficient layout, as opposed to the minor differences each component my make to temperature.


That could work too.
I'll consider this idea as well

Technically all the Rads are exhaust,

since the LanBoyAir case is porous in every direction, so the 2 fans in the side panel always intake fresh air right on to the 2 video card which then air always comes gushing out in every direction top, rear, and front.

I could do as you said, have the front 240 Rad as intake, that will push the air to the back
remove the side panel fans, since now the video cards are water cooled, there's really no much need for the fans there

then have the top 240 rad also as intake, that should maximize the cooling effect as you mentioned.
The rear if I remove the 120 Rad it'll be a plain exhaust
I was thinking since the air is going out anyways, and the fan is there, might as well use it with a 120 Rad.

but, I'll take your advice into consideration.

we'll see how that works out when all the parts arrives.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> ok, so I just came up with this, pardon the horrible hand drawings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe this should work right?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> That could work too.
> I'll consider this idea as well
> 
> Technically all the Rads are exhaust,
> 
> since the LanBoyAir case is porous in every direction, so the 2 fans in the side panel always intake fresh air right on to the 2 video card which then air always comes gushing out in every direction top, rear, and front.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I could do as you said, have the front 240 Rad as intake, that will push the air to the back
> remove the side panel fans, since now the video cards are water cooled, there's really no much need for the fans there
> 
> then have the top 240 rad also as intake, that should maximize the cooling effect as you mentioned.
> The rear if I remove the 120 Rad it'll be a plain exhaust
> I was thinking since the air is going out anyways, and the fan is there, might as well use it with a 120 Rad.
> 
> but, I'll take your advice into consideration.
> 
> we'll see how that works out when all the parts arrives.


As Ravage had stated, the reservoir should feed the pump. This makes filling the system and priming the pump much easier and reduces the chances of burning up the pump. If you are going to run the radiators all as exhaust, that should work too. My main concern was to avoid the heated air from one rad entering another rad. That would kind of defeat the purpose of the other rad.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> As Ravage had stated, the reservoir should feed the pump. This makes filling the system and priming the pump much easier and reduces the chances of burning up the pump. If you are going to run the radiators all as exhaust, that should work too. My main concern was to avoid the heated air from one rad entering another rad. That would kind of defeat the purpose of the other rad.


Lol your thinking in extremes.

the air coming from one rad is NOT going to be hot to such an extent, CERTAINLY not enough to have any withstanding impact on the other radiator, let alone to entirely belay its existence in the system at all.

The point of a radiator is to cool, and remove heat, not just push it someplace else....

sorry, I just feel like far too often I see in discussions that the bigger picture gets easily overlooked. I feel as though another example of this would be perhaps, people emphasising component order.... in theory i could see how people could logically make a case for it, but in reality its just really overzealous scientific methods rearing their faces.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Lol your thinking in extremes.
> 
> the air coming from one rad is NOT going to be hot to such an extent, CERTAINLY not enough to have any withstanding impact on the other radiator, let alone to entirely belay its existence in the system at all.
> 
> The point of a radiator is to cool, and remove heat, not just push it someplace else....
> 
> sorry, I just feel like far too often I see in discussions that the bigger picture gets easily overlooked. I feel as though another example of this would be perhaps, people emphasising component order.... in theory i could see how people could logically make a case for it, but in reality its just really overzealous scientific methods rearing their faces.


exactly. ppl tend to overthink water cooling. Water flows so fast in such a small loop that the temp is pretty much the same in all loop points. Water is liquid, it doesn't have particles, it doesn't work like particle A goes through 2 gpus and cpu and is hotter than particle B which is currently in the rad.
Anyway, two 240 and one 120 rad is not enough for i7 and two gpus. temps will be quite high and fans will spin like mad while gaming for hours. The same sort of cooling/noise can be achieved by going air cooling for much less.
My opinion; not worth going water.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> As Ravage had stated, the reservoir should feed the pump. This makes filling the system and priming the pump much easier and reduces the chances of burning up the pump. If you are going to run the radiators all as exhaust, that should work too. My main concern was to avoid the heated air from one rad entering another rad. That would kind of defeat the purpose of the other rad.
> 
> 
> 
> Lol your thinking in extremes.
> 
> the air coming from one rad is NOT going to be hot to such an extent, CERTAINLY not enough to have any withstanding impact on the other radiator, let alone to entirely belay its existence in the system at all.
> 
> The point of a radiator is to cool, and remove heat, not just push it someplace else....
> 
> sorry, I just feel like far too often I see in discussions that the bigger picture gets easily overlooked. I feel as though another example of this would be perhaps, people emphasising component order.... in theory i could see how people could logically make a case for it, but in reality its just really overzealous scientific methods rearing their faces.
Click to expand...

So your saying hot air can cool a radiator just as good as ambient air?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> exactly. ppl tend to overthink water cooling. Water flows so fast in such a small loop that the temp is pretty much the same in all loop points. Water is liquid, it doesn't have particles, it doesn't work like particle A goes through 2 gpus and cpu and is hotter than particle B which is currently in the rad.
> Anyway, two 240 and one 120 rad is not enough for i7 and two gpus. temps will be quite high and fans will spin like mad while gaming for hours. The same sort of cooling/noise can be achieved by going air cooling for much less.
> My opinion; not worth going water.


You don't think 600mm of rad space is enough to cool three components? I disagree with that. With his setup 480mm should be enough. I've cooled three 7950's and a 3770k with a 420mm alone and it had great temps. You say people tend to overthink water cooling and I agree, but that is just what you are doing by thinking 600mm is not enough.

As for the exhaust/intake argument, I always recommend using all rads as intakes, sucking col air in from outside the case, and then using the rear fan as an exhaust. This creates positive pressure and makes a big difference with dust in the case.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> As for the exhaust/intake argument, I always recommend using all rads as intakes, sucking col air in from outside the case, and then using the rear fan as an exhaust. This creates positive pressure and makes a big difference with dust in the case.


I agree with this, and have been doing it that way all along with my wc builds.

But for AllGamer's build, due to the unique nature of the LanBoy Air case he is using, it may be a different ballgame:
http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/15970#post_25243819
Should be interesting to see how that works out.


----------



## Enapace

I'm going with two PE 360MM Rads for my 4790K and 1080 SLI Set up it probably is overkill but should be quiet.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> ok, so I just came up with this, pardon the horrible hand drawings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe this should work right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just to let you know, EK sells a monoblock for the gigabyte Z1 board. Could save you a lot of tubing. Here is a picture of mine:



Also, is there a reason you are getting the more expensive Gigabyte Gaming G1 over the Gaming 7 besides for the integrated water cooling? Looks like you are only doing dual GPU's so I'd take a look at the Gigabyte G1 Gaming 7 which is what I have. Still has a lot of nice features and is only $200.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Just to let you know, EK sells a monoblock for the gigabyte Z1 board. Could save you a lot of tubing. Here is a picture of mine:
> 
> Also, is there a reason you are getting the more expensive Gigabyte Gaming G1 over the Gaming 7 besides for the integrated water cooling? Looks like you are only doing dual GPU's so I'd take a look at the Gigabyte G1 Gaming 7 which is what I have. Still has a lot of nice features and is only $200.


Thanks! for the advice, I'll surely look into using one of those.

As you said, I got attracted to the Top End G1 because of the stock built-in water block for the VRM, and LED show









but if the less expensive models still has the LED Show, and a great monoblock for it, I'd definitely consider that.

so...
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-ga-z170x-monoblock-nickel ($140)
+
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128835&cm_re=Gaming_7-_-13-128-835-_-Product ($195)

it works out to aprox $350, while the G1 is aprox $500+









yup, the decision is easy
going the monoblock way, also saves 4 extra fittings, which I can use elsewhere, that's roughly $35 in savings by not having to buy extra fittings.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Thanks! for the advice, I'll surely look into using one of those.
> 
> As you said, I got attracted to the Top End G1 because of the stock built-in water block for the VRM, and LED show
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but if the less expensive models still has the LED Show, and a great monoblock for it, I'd definitely consider that.
> 
> so...
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-ga-z170x-monoblock-nickel ($140)
> +
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128835&cm_re=Gaming_7-_-13-128-835-_-Product ($195)
> 
> it works out to aprox $350, while the G1 is aprox $500+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yup, the decision is easy
> going the monoblock way, also saves 4 extra fittings, which I can use elsewhere, that's roughly $35 in savings by not having to buy extra fittings.


Yep! Not to mention the money you will save on fittings. The monoblock is fantastic. CPU never goes over 46C overclocked at 4.4Ghz/1.22v. Just make sure to realize that the right inlet of the block must be used as the inlet while the left side is used as an outlet.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Lol your thinking in extremes.
> 
> the air coming from one rad is NOT going to be hot to such an extent, CERTAINLY not enough to have any withstanding impact on the other radiator, let alone to entirely belay its existence in the system at all.
> 
> The point of a radiator is to cool, and remove heat, not just push it someplace else....
> 
> sorry, I just feel like far too often I see in discussions that the bigger picture gets easily overlooked. I feel as though another example of this would be perhaps, people emphasising component order.... in theory i could see how people could logically make a case for it, but in reality its just really overzealous scientific methods rearing their faces.


I only stated that you don't want the warm exhaust from one radiator feeding another radiator if possible. In the case of my build, a rear 140 rad was being fed warm air the way I had it set up. Removing the rad completely improved my temps under load and improved the overall layout of my build. It improved my temps just enough to get another 100MHz on my overclock with one less radiator. That is worth consideration in my experience.

I know it is the *most extreme example*, but look at *Radiator-Sandwich testing*


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I know it is the *most extreme example*, but look at *Radiator-Sandwich testing*


OMG! I can't believe it

Single Fans actually performs better than sandwiched fans....

with that in mind, now I feel more confident with the EK plans i posted earlier 600mm surface area should do just fine.

On that Water Test Chart it also demonstrated something I always pondered about.

It seems like the difference of using a Thick double size radiator, vs.a Thin skinny radiator makes very little difference.

Definitely the intake of cold air as short and quick as possible, seems to have the most efficiency.


----------



## wermad

I have the G1. Just a warning that GB is the new EVGA in terms of mb bios.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I have the G1. Just a warning that GB is the new EVGA in terms of mb bios.


Their new BIOS is fairly good though, I got an x99 Phoenix SLI and a memory problem aside (quickly solved via beta BIOS) it's done everything my RVE could.


----------



## wermad

Z97 took a bit of effort and so far Z170 as well. Currently, I'm running a version that works good with auto oc, but xmp is broken. One of the newest versions does fix xmp, but for me (and I read a few others) it doesn't last and immediately crashes. Furthermore, in my case, auto oc is unstable as well. I didn't have much trouble with Z87 (Sniper 5) as well as Z77 (Sniper 3).

I'm sticking with this board primarily for the looks and the onboard audio chip. I could go with a RVE as Asus has always been more solid and I have a ribbon cable to add a sound card despite upgrading eventually to 4-way.

I do like the fact that Z97 and Z170 had g1/4 ports instead of the fixed barbs of the Sniper 5 Z87.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

I've had no issues with my TridentZ 3400Mhz using the XMP profile on my Gigabyte G1 Gaming 7. I flashed the F7 (Maybe F6?) UEFI firmware immediately after installing the motherboard. I don't use auto OC though and don't really have any interest in it so I can't speak for that. Overclocking has been very easy too and I haven't encountered any bugs. As many people say, my only issue is that the BIOS is very bland, but it's not a big deal to me because I spend most of my time actually using the computer.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Z97 took a bit of effort and so far Z170 as well. Currently, I'm running a version that works good with auto oc, but xmp is broken. One of the newest versions does fix xmp, but for me (and I read a few others) it doesn't last and immediately crashes. Furthermore, in my case, auto oc is unstable as well. I didn't have much trouble with Z87 (Sniper 5) as well as Z77 (Sniper 3).


Oh yeah, I still can't get over the terrible BIOS on my Z97N-WIFI. No amount of BIOS updates or tinkering could save that thing, so it is not doing just cooler/block demonstrations more often than not.


----------



## Ceadderman

While it is encouraged and even optimal to have the Res before the Pump, it's not 100% doable in some aspects. It really doesn't matter where the Res is so long as it's supplying coolant in the loop. The biggest issue of note is out of the Res to Pump order, the loop will take longer to fill and rid itself of all the little bubbles. So if out of order, make sure to tilt the case to the angle that will accommodate keeping the pump lubricated. This is 100% the key to pump operation and health. Run pumps dry at your own peril and expense.

Some instances where it's not doable? I have one. In a mITX or SFF build where space isn't at a premium. But so long as the Res is always higher than the pump it should be a non issue. Another is that some builders can only put their Res alongside the I/O slots in their case above their PSU where pumps are not easily mounted.









I would recommend however that it be set up pump after Res whenever possible.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I've had no issues with my TridentZ 3400Mhz using the XMP profile on my Gigabyte G1 Gaming 7. I flashed the F7 (Maybe F6?) UEFI firmware immediately after installing the motherboard. I don't use auto OC though and don't really have any interest in it so I can't speak for that. Overclocking has been very easy too and I haven't encountered any bugs. As many people say, my only issue is that the BIOS is very bland, but it's not a big deal to me because I spend most of my time actually using the computer.


My sticks are on the qvl list but still, the board is flaky. I've seen more stable 7 models, but then again, there's fewer G1's. I found a forum where the owner was having the exact same issue and GB sent a beta but he ended up with the same symptoms I have. Since xmp is broken, it runs at default 2133 and I don't mind since cpu oc'ing is more important to me. Once I get my gpu setup going, I'll tinker with xmp and bios again.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh yeah, I still can't get over the terrible BIOS on my Z97N-WIFI. No amount of BIOS updates or tinkering could save that thing, so it is not doing just cooler/block demonstrations more often than not.


yeah, don't know why GB bios are not solid like in the past or compared to other big player brands such as Asus and MSI. This will be my final GB board as I rather stick with Asus for the reliability I had with them before.


----------



## Ceadderman

Not sure they have ever been solid werm. But that's as debatable as what color the sky is.









Better watch out though. Simply saying "ASUS" is grounds for summary execution to some.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not sure they have ever been solid werm. But that's as debatable as what color the sky is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Z97 took a bit of effort and so far Z170 as well. Currently, I'm running a version that works good with auto oc, but xmp is broken. One of the newest versions does fix xmp, but for me (and I read a few others) it doesn't last and immediately crashes. Furthermore, in my case, auto oc is unstable as well. *I didn't have much trouble with Z87 (Sniper 5) as well as Z77 (Sniper 3).*
> 
> I'm sticking with this board primarily for the looks and the onboard audio chip. I could go with a RVE as Asus has always been more solid and I have a ribbon cable to add a sound card despite upgrading eventually to 4-way.
> 
> I do like the fact that Z97 and Z170 had g1/4 ports instead of the fixed barbs of the Sniper 5 Z87.
Click to expand...

edit: on the initial bios, I couldn't boot with four sticks on the G1. After trying one dimm at a time, it finally worked, updated to near-recent bios (what I'm using now) and proceeded. So ram issues were there right out of the box. I'm a sucker for looks, and this damn thing is too purrrrrttttttyyy to get rid of


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not sure they have ever been solid werm. But that's as debatable as what color the sky is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Z97 took a bit of effort and so far Z170 as well. Currently, I'm running a version that works good with auto oc, but xmp is broken. One of the newest versions does fix xmp, but for me (and I read a few others) it doesn't last and immediately crashes. Furthermore, in my case, auto oc is unstable as well. *I didn't have much trouble with Z87 (Sniper 5) as well as Z77 (Sniper 3).*
> 
> I'm sticking with this board primarily for the looks and the onboard audio chip. I could go with a RVE as Asus has always been more solid and I have a ribbon cable to add a sound card despite upgrading eventually to 4-way.
> 
> I do like the fact that Z97 and Z170 had g1/4 ports instead of the fixed barbs of the Sniper 5 Z87.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

ASUS had their issues with "barbs" as well though. I remember Formula 3(dinky barbs) and Intel RoG board or 2 with them as well. It was actually us RoG owners who gave input that got them to change that on the RoG site. I was one of those members who gave input on the matter. Because I never understood why when they were working with EK to provide reasonable heatsinks, they wouldn't put G1/4 threads on them when most watercoolers were already working with the G1/4 format and likely would have the extra G1/4 fittings on hand to use with MB blocks.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

nah, I'm talking about bios dude.

As for Asus, they're not perfect, but their bios are great. Case in point of dropping the ball; using aluminum on one of the Max Formula boards. Tg Ek made a block for it and Asus switched to copper shortly after that. Lol, they tried pulling a fast one like Corsair Aluminum ram blocks


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> So your saying hot air can cool a radiator just as good as ambient air?


Uh, no.... -_-

What I was saying, to me at least, felt pretty clear.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I only stated that you don't want the warm exhaust from one radiator feeding another radiator if possible. In the case of my build, a rear 140 rad was being fed warm air the way I had it set up. Removing the rad completely improved my temps under load and improved the overall layout of my build. It improved my temps just enough to get another 100MHz on my overclock with one less radiator. That is worth consideration in my experience.
> 
> I know it is the *most extreme example*, but look at *Radiator-Sandwich testing*


Oh gotcha, and im actually familiar with the stacking tests like those, i shoulda mentioned that i was somewhat speaking in general and using the scenario to make a point. Certainly stacking isnt a great idea.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I have the G1. Just a warning that GB is the new EVGA in terms of mb bios.


ASUS isn't doing any better on Z170 so far from personal experience and from feedback here and other sources. I have only used one GB board recently and it was find BIOS wise but had a sound issue that was just too ruthless to ignore so it had to go. In fact it seems almost all vendors Z170 chipsets have plenty of bugs and issues still of varying types. What about the GB BIOS do you not like? I mean my Deluxe hangs and forgets settings randomly(replaced CMOS battery and tried every BIOS version) so there really isn't anything worse than that...oh wait there is....the board is hard tubed in because it decided to wait weeks before having these issues.









That work of art in my sig is a paperweight until I can figure out what board to replace that junk with....I'm considering going full plebian and going back to Z97 with an i7 and using QDC fittings and soft tubing just to make life easier if I need to pull another board. I would even go X79 or X99 as long as the board is rock solid stable. I miss my P67 build...the thing never had a single issue and would be fine today with just an upgraded GPU.....it was an ugly looking system though. Kung Fury is a work of art but sadly it is non functional.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I've personally had zero issues in x99, also I've heard nothing but complaints about the Max VIII Hero (non alpha)


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I've personally had zero issues in x99, also I've heard nothing but complaints about the Max VIII Hero (non alpha)


Good to know, may go that route. The Z170 boards seem vastly immature overall.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Does anyone know if the EK multiport top can be used with the EK xres revo d5 pump/res combo? I assume the inlet port on the pump top can be plugged and it will work fine. I'm changing some things up in my loop and i need the extra space that the pump res combo will give me, but i need to use the multiport top as the inlet.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Does anyone know if the EK multiport top can be used with the EK xres revo d5 pump/res combo? I assume the inlet port on the pump top can be plugged and it will work fine. I'm changing some things up in my loop and i need the extra space that the pump res combo will give me, but i need to use the multiport top as the inlet.


Quote:


> This product is compatible with the following EK reservoirs:
> - EK-RES X3 150
> - EK-RES X3 250
> - EK-RES X3 400
> - EK-DDC X-RES CSQ (ports to be used as an inlet only)
> - EK-D5 X-RES CSQ (ports to be used as an inlet only)


----------



## Asus11

can i reuse gtx 1070 backplate with ek waterblock?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


daym sexy


----------



## HackJoe

...

...

...

...

...

Plenty of EK goodness in there.

EKWB VARDAR F4-120ER X2
EKWB PE240 RAD
EKWB D5 REVO TOP
EKWB SUPREMACY EVO FULL NICKEL

Build log and plenty more photos HERE.

J.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ordered some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut last night and snagged a box of EK ZMT tubing (10mmx16mm)







.
I should be taking the 970 out of JAC and installing the 390x so should be a CPU/MOBO only loop for a while till I can get my hands on a block for the 390x


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> can i reuse gtx 1070 backplate with ek waterblock?


It always depend on how these OEM backplates are secured on the GPU.

The ones that are usually secured from the "inside" of the card aren't reusable.

The ones that are secured from the outside may be reused again but might sometimes need some modding like enlarging the screw holes and of course in all situation, longer (2mm~4mm longer) screws needs to be bought by the owner.

But I can't tell you because those GPU's are too new and this info is usually coming from the customers who try it because we don't try this ourselves.


----------



## rolldog

What coolant is that? Mayhem Blueberry?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> What coolant is that? Mayhem Blueberry?


Yes, Yes it Is









1 Bottle of 250ml Concentrate added to distilled.

TCO


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HackJoe*
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> ...
> 
> ...
> 
> ...
> 
> ...
> 
> Plenty of EK goodness in there.
> 
> EKWB VARDAR F4-120ER X2
> EKWB PE240 RAD
> EKWB D5 REVO TOP
> EKWB SUPREMACY EVO FULL NICKEL
> 
> Build log and plenty more photos HERE.
> 
> J.


man. thats stunning. what kind of camera you using for these?


----------



## rolldog

I started a build back at the end of 2015 but had to put it on the back burner because I had other things come up and didn't have the time to work on it. However, I started working on it again about a month ago, and I just started my leak test only to find out that my rads are leaking from the shroud.

Has anyone used these EK Coolstream XE rads? I have no idea why I bought these rads, but they are not as good as my last EK rads. These only have 4 ports on them, and all 4 of them are at one end of the rad, 2 on each side. The ports on one side of the rad came with G1/4 extenders installed. I'm just taking a wild guess here, but I think these extenders have to stay in those ports. I'm not sure why, but if you remove them and stick a different fitting on there, I think it increases the pressure inside the rad where the rad will leak coolant from the sides of the shroud. Has anyone experienced this?

I have 2 x 480mm XE rads on the top of my CaseLabs TH10A, and they're hooked up to my GPU loop. I'm using a 200mm reservoir with a D5 pump and the Bitspower mod kit. My line runs from my pump directly to the side and then up to my 2 x GPUs running SLI. I have them hooked up parallel. Then my line runs straight up and into one 480, then to the other 480,then back to my res. If I only fill my res up enough to run coolant through the loop, they're fine. If I add anymore coolant to my res, coolant starts dripping from my fans mounted under these 480s. If I drain some of the coolant out, it stops dripping. This has to be one of the cheapest made rad I've ever seen. All my hardline fittings are fine, even the Bitspower minis, but the rad can't handle the pressure when I add more coolant to my reservoir. I have to run it where the reservoir has no extra coolant in it, and the flow line coming back into the res is just enough where my pump won't run dry. The worst part is changing out these 2 x 480mm rads up top won't be the easiest thing to do since everything in my build is finished. I might just spray some rubber sealant on the sides of my rads to prevent them from leaking. Anyone have any better ideas?


----------



## rolldog

Thanks my LA friend. I need some blue coolant but can't decide if I'm going to use that or the UV blue. I don't think I have enough UV lighting to benefit from that though, and I'm going to run the other loop with white.


----------



## ekgolf

@AKIRA749 Do you have any idea if there is an motherboard blocks for the Gigabyte x99 designare ex in the works? There is nothing on cooling configurator yet. Thanks!


----------



## DarthBaggins

The new x99 Gigabyte boards are going to be nice when I saw them a couple weeks ago


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I'm just taking a wild guess here, but I think these extenders have to stay in those ports. I'm not sure why, but if you remove them and stick a different fitting on there, I think it increases the pressure inside the rad where the rad will leak coolant from the sides of the shroud. Has anyone experienced this?


I've never heard of such a thing.
Quote:


> I have 2 x 480mm XE rads on the top of my...If I only fill my res up enough to run coolant through the loop, they're fine. If I add anymore coolant to my res, coolant starts dripping from my fans mounted under these 480s. If I drain some of the coolant out, it stops dripping.


Sounds to me like you may have punctured the radiator with the fan screws. You need to check that first. If that's not the case then you will have to RMA the rads. There's no reason they should leak like that.
Quote:


> I might just spray some rubber sealant on the sides of my rads to prevent them from leaking. Anyone have any better ideas?


I really doubt rubber sealant would hold for any worthwhile amount of time. Those rads need repaired or replaced.


----------



## rolldog

That's what I thought too until I just Googled "EK Coolstream XE radiator leaking" and found so many people who had this same exact issue, but they still had the extenders to screw in the ports, which stopped the leaking. Even an employee of EK confirmed that the extenders shouldn't be removed. I find this kinda ridiculous to be honest, and it sure puts me in a pinch since replacing all my rads with coolant in both loops and all my acrylic runs perfectly measured.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> That's what I thought too until I just Googled "EK Coolstream XE radiator leaking" and found so many people who had this same exact issue, but they still had the extenders to screw in the ports, which stopped the leaking. Even an employee of EK confirmed that the extenders shouldn't be removed. I find this kinda ridiculous to be honest, and it sure puts me in a pinch since replacing all my rads with coolant in both loops and all my acrylic runs perfectly measured.


You sure you don't have the radiators that got mis-assembled last year where the shroud screws were too long and puncturing the end cap?

If it's leaking RMA it, no reason to even try to use a leaking rad.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> That's what I thought too until I just Googled "EK Coolstream XE radiator leaking" and found so many people who had this same exact issue, but they still had the extenders to screw in the ports, which stopped the leaking. Even an employee of EK confirmed that the extenders shouldn't be removed. I find this kinda ridiculous to be honest, and it sure puts me in a pinch since replacing all my rads with coolant in both loops and all my acrylic runs perfectly measured.


Hard to say without photos or anything but usually if you just take out the extender and put your own fitting on, the o-ring between the fitting and radiator isn't going to seal because of the shroud going around. You have to take the rad apart and extend the hole of the shroud.

Is there a particular reason you don't like the extender fittings?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> That's what I thought too until I just Googled "EK Coolstream XE radiator leaking" and found so many people who had this same exact issue, but they still had the extenders to screw in the ports, which stopped the leaking. Even an employee of EK confirmed that the extenders shouldn't be removed. I find this kinda ridiculous to be honest, and it sure puts me in a pinch since replacing all my rads with coolant in both loops and all my acrylic runs perfectly measured.
> 
> 
> 
> *You sure you don't have the radiators that got mis-assembled last year where the shroud screws were too long and puncturing the end cap?*
> 
> If it's leaking RMA it, no reason to even try to use a leaking rad.
Click to expand...

If that is the case then I agree wholeheartedly.









If no RMA is going to be submitted then I would suggest taking it to a Radiator repair shop and see what they think and how much it would cost to repair the damage.









~Ceadder


----------



## rolldog

EK had a batch of reservoirs that got messed up in assembly? I bought these in August or September of 2015, but I haven't even used them until recently. Like I mentioned, I started on this build, but then I had a lot of other things come up which made me put everything on the back burner for 6 months or so, which sucks because now most of these parts aren't considered new, even though they've never been used.

Did EK recall a batch of radiators?


----------



## rolldog

I took the extenders off to paint the rads white. I put in regular stop fittings whenever I painted them, and when they were done, I just used other fittings, which were longer extenders since these rads are sitting on top of a Caselabs TH10A. I didn't think about keeping the original extenders on them, which I then would have had 2 extenders in the place where I could use one. For example, why use 2 x 30mm extenders when you can use a 60mm extender and not risk having a leak in that extra extender. If I would have known that those extenders needed to stay there, then of course I wouldn't have taken them off, or I would have put them back on when I was done painting them. .


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Are D5 pumps considerably quieter than MCP 30, or can u still hear em like the MCP30 on lowest speed ?


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Are D5 pumps considerably quieter than MCP 30, or can u still hear em like the MCP30 on lowest speed ?


On the lowest speed the D5 is dead silent. I can't hear it even in a silent room with my ear right up to it. On the highest speed it is still quieter than any one of my fans. I don't have any experience with the MCP 30 so I can't directly compare the two.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I took the extenders off to paint the rads white. I put in regular stop fittings whenever I painted them, and when they were done, I just used other fittings, which were longer extenders since these rads are sitting on top of a Caselabs TH10A. I didn't think about keeping the original extenders on them, which I then would have had 2 extenders in the place where I could use one. For example, why use 2 x 30mm extenders when you can use a 60mm extender and not risk having a leak in that extra extender. If I would have known that those extenders needed to stay there, then of course I wouldn't have taken them off, or I would have put them back on when I was done painting them. .


I have those same rads in my th10a. The recessed pots will absolutely leak without extender fittings!! I had a temp sensor and a air release valve in mine both leaked until I put 2 Bitspower male to female extenders on those ports very tight, and then used the temp and air fittings in the extenders.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekgolf*
> 
> @akira749 Do you have any idea if there is an motherboard blocks for the Gigabyte x99 designare ex in the works? There is nothing on cooling configurator yet. Thanks!


I don't know, I will try to get some infos.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I took the extenders off to paint the rads white. I put in regular stop fittings whenever I painted them, and when they were done, I just used other fittings, which were longer extenders since these rads are sitting on top of a Caselabs TH10A. I didn't think about keeping the original extenders on them, which I then would have had 2 extenders in the place where I could use one. For example, why use 2 x 30mm extenders when you can use a 60mm extender and not risk having a leak in that extra extender. If I would have known that those extenders needed to stay there, then of course I wouldn't have taken them off, or I would have put them back on when I was done painting them. .


Do you still have the extenders? If you still have them, simply put them back in place and your leak will go away.

You have to see those extenders like a part of the radiator and not like a simple extender.


----------



## ekgolf

Awesome! I love your products!


----------



## rolldog

I found 4 of the extenders, which I put on both of my 480s. My 360 still doesn't have extenders on it. Could I buy any extender to use and put them on the 360?

One thing that baffles me is I have a waterline going up into a port on the underside of one of my 480s (running from my GPUs), then a waterline coming out of a port on the top of my rad connected to an extender, then the line runs down the length of my case between 2 x 480s, goes into a top port on another 480 using the extender, then comes out one of the bottom ports, and runs to the intake on the top of my reservoir. I had to run the waterline the length of my case between the 2 x 480s because all the ports are only on one end of these XE rads.

Now, this loop cools my GPUs, both 480 rads sits on the top of my Caselabs TH10A (the picture that's my profile pic) so all the coolant flows upwards to the top of my case because I installed a reversal kit in my TH10A. When I start up the pumps, fill the res with enough coolant where the res is almost dry but the coolant starts coming back into the intake of my res, I have no problems leaking. If I add more coolant to the res, when the res is about half full, coolant starts dripping from one of the middle fans mounted to the underside of my rad (both rads are setup as push/pull). When the coolant starts dripping, I check around the ports, and everything is dry. No coolant at all is leaking from the ports, but it's dripping through my fan. I don't know exactly where it's coming from the rad, but I assume it's the shroud because I had all of my screws, which are blue anodized, cut specifically to length. So a screw can't puncture the waterline between the fins. Now, if I drain enough coolant from my res where the coolant coming in goes right back out (no additional coolant in the reservoir) the leak stops. How do you explain that?

As much of a pain this is going to be, I'm about to drain both of my loops and take everything apart because I now have coolant leaking from my 360mm rad too, which it mounted to the bottom of my case. I have 2 small pools of coolant where it's slowly been dripping, but they're nowhere near the ports. The ports on top of the rad are dry. I don't know about under the rad because I can't see it, but they still have the stop fittings installed that came with the rad. Once I get this thing apart I'll be able to tell where the leak was coming from because my rads are painted white and I have blue coolant.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I found 4 of the extenders, which I put on both of my 480s. My 360 still doesn't have extenders on it. Could I buy any extender to use and put them on the 360?
> 
> One thing that baffles me is I have a waterline going up into a port on the underside of one of my 480s (running from my GPUs), then a waterline coming out of a port on the top of my rad connected to an extender, then the line runs down the length of my case between 2 x 480s, goes into a top port on another 480 using the extender, then comes out one of the bottom ports, and runs to the intake on the top of my reservoir. I had to run the waterline the length of my case between the 2 x 480s because all the ports are only on one end of these XE rads.
> 
> Now, this loop cools my GPUs, both 480 rads sits on the top of my Caselabs TH10A (the picture that's my profile pic) so all the coolant flows upwards to the top of my case because I installed a reversal kit in my TH10A. When I start up the pumps, fill the res with enough coolant where the res is almost dry but the coolant starts coming back into the intake of my res, I have no problems leaking. If I add more coolant to the res, when the res is about half full, coolant starts dripping from one of the middle fans mounted to the underside of my rad (both rads are setup as push/pull). When the coolant starts dripping, I check around the ports, and everything is dry. No coolant at all is leaking from the ports, but it's dripping through my fan. I don't know exactly where it's coming from the rad, but I assume it's the shroud because I had all of my screws, which are blue anodized, cut specifically to length. So a screw can't puncture the waterline between the fins. Now, if I drain enough coolant from my res where the coolant coming in goes right back out (no additional coolant in the reservoir) the leak stops. How do you explain that?
> 
> As much of a pain this is going to be, I'm about to drain both of my loops and take everything apart because I now have coolant leaking from my 360mm rad too, which it mounted to the bottom of my case. I have 2 small pools of coolant where it's slowly been dripping, but they're nowhere near the ports. The ports on top of the rad are dry. I don't know about under the rad because I can't see it, but they still have the stop fittings installed that came with the rad. Once I get this thing apart I'll be able to tell where the leak was coming from because my rads are painted white and I have blue coolant.


This is the problem I was referring to, you should check it out.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/09/02/bad-news-for-eks-new-xe-radiator/


----------



## Touge180SX

@derickwm, can you confirm that the ASUS Strix 1080 waterblock has the 2 3mm LED holes in in like the FE edition block? I need to place an order but wanted to make sure they are still there. Thanks!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> @derickwm, can you confirm that the ASUS Strix 1080 waterblock has the 2 3mm LED holes in in like the FE edition block? I need to place an order but wanted to make sure they are still there. Thanks!


If there isn't you can always make some 3mm holes.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> If there isn't you can always make some 3mm holes.


True but would be nice if I didn't have too. I will order the LED's regardless though.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I found 4 of the extenders, which I put on both of my 480s. My 360 still doesn't have extenders on it. Could I buy any extender to use and put them on the 360?
> 
> One thing that baffles me is I have a waterline going up into a port on the underside of one of my 480s (running from my GPUs), then a waterline coming out of a port on the top of my rad connected to an extender, then the line runs down the length of my case between 2 x 480s, goes into a top port on another 480 using the extender, then comes out one of the bottom ports, and runs to the intake on the top of my reservoir. I had to run the waterline the length of my case between the 2 x 480s because all the ports are only on one end of these XE rads.
> 
> Now, this loop cools my GPUs, both 480 rads sits on the top of my Caselabs TH10A (the picture that's my profile pic) so all the coolant flows upwards to the top of my case because I installed a reversal kit in my TH10A. When I start up the pumps, fill the res with enough coolant where the res is almost dry but the coolant starts coming back into the intake of my res, I have no problems leaking. If I add more coolant to the res, when the res is about half full, coolant starts dripping from one of the middle fans mounted to the underside of my rad (both rads are setup as push/pull). When the coolant starts dripping, I check around the ports, and everything is dry. No coolant at all is leaking from the ports, but it's dripping through my fan. I don't know exactly where it's coming from the rad, but I assume it's the shroud because I had all of my screws, which are blue anodized, cut specifically to length. So a screw can't puncture the waterline between the fins. Now, if I drain enough coolant from my res where the coolant coming in goes right back out (no additional coolant in the reservoir) the leak stops. How do you explain that?
> 
> As much of a pain this is going to be, I'm about to drain both of my loops and take everything apart because I now have coolant leaking from my 360mm rad too, which it mounted to the bottom of my case. I have 2 small pools of coolant where it's slowly been dripping, but they're nowhere near the ports. The ports on top of the rad are dry. I don't know about under the rad because I can't see it, but they still have the stop fittings installed that came with the rad. Once I get this thing apart I'll be able to tell where the leak was coming from because my rads are painted white and I have blue coolant.


The ones that comes with the rads are black but we also have them in nickel and black nickel.

EK-Extender G1/4 Socket - Black
EK-Extender G1/4 Socket - Nickel
EK-Extender G1/4 Socket - Black Nickel
They must be used on every ports where there's a connection. The unused ports can simply have the included stop plug.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> @derickwm, can you confirm that the ASUS Strix 1080 waterblock has the 2 3mm LED holes in in like the FE edition block? I need to place an order but wanted to make sure they are still there. Thanks!


@EK_tiborrr


----------



## VSG

Wrong account, man









@EK_tiborrr


----------



## rolldog

Thanks for the link. Sounds like XE rads manufactured before Oct 2015 had issues. I bought mine in August 2015, but after painting them white, I doubt they would be exchanged. Also, it's been so long since I bought them. Like I mentioned earlier, I had to put this build on the back burner for 6 months, which is way too much time. My build isn't even in working condition yet, and my parts are almost outdated. I may have to bite the bullet and just replace them. Even though it's going to be an additional cost, I don't think the cost of new rads are going to come close to what it's going to cost in time to remove these from my case, considering all the acrylic tubing cutting to size.

This sucks, but I guess it's something that you must be prepared for with any custom build. It probably wouldn't be as bad if I wouldn't have so much time vested in this.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Thanks for the link. Sounds like XE rads manufactured before Oct 2015 had issues. I bought mine in August 2015, but after painting them white, I doubt they would be exchanged. Also, it's been so long since I bought them. Like I mentioned earlier, I had to put this build on the back burner for 6 months, which is way too much time. My build isn't even in working condition yet, and my parts are almost outdated. I may have to bite the bullet and just replace them. Even though it's going to be an additional cost, I don't think the cost of new rads are going to come close to what it's going to cost in time to remove these from my case, considering all the acrylic tubing cutting to size.
> 
> This sucks, but I guess it's something that you must be prepared for with any custom build. It probably wouldn't be as bad if I wouldn't have so much time vested in this.


When you drain your loop please take some photos of the radiators. I'm assuming you took them apart to paint them? When you take them apart again, please look closely to where the coolant is leaking from. It's either going to be at the end where the extenders should have been to begin with or on the opposite end which may have been pierced by the shroud screws when you reassembled. The majority of radiators before Oct 2015 were fine, but if reassembled incorrectly or dropped on that bottom side could have resulted in it being pierced. The screws have since been shortened and this shouldn't be a concern as of late.


----------



## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

Im Wondering if ek has any Plans to implement THe rgb headers in their plexiversions of The custom gtx1080 Blocks so we can use them to Illuminate THe Blocks in THe rgb Spektrum







(when gtx1080 ftw evga Arrives it will be waiting for its block and i Want to use THe rgb effects Cause i will Order The plexi version when it releases Late July )


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oO-Waschbaer-Oo*
> 
> Im Wondering if ek has any Plans to implement THe rgb headers in their plexiversions of The custom gtx1080 Blocks so we can use them to Illuminate THe Blocks in THe rgb Spektrum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (when gtx1080 ftw evga Arrives it will be waiting for its block and i Want to use THe rgb effects Cause i will Order The plexi version when it releases Late July )


NO, this is a horrible idea! If you want RGB then buy a GPU with RGB built into the stock cooler. We don't need a water block from EK with RGB, this would only add to the cost and it's not what a water block is meant for.


----------



## seross69

sorry


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oO-Waschbaer-Oo*
> 
> Im Wondering if ek has any Plans to implement THe rgb headers in their plexiversions of The custom gtx1080 Blocks so we can use them to Illuminate THe Blocks in THe rgb Spektrum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (when gtx1080 ftw evga Arrives it will be waiting for its block and i Want to use THe rgb effects Cause i will Order The plexi version when it releases Late July )


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> NO, this is a horrible idea! If you want RGB then buy a GPU with RGB built into the stock cooler. We don't need a water block from EK with RGB, this would only add to the cost and it's not what a water block is meant for.


Most ek clear blocks have holes for leds, so just put one in.. If it don't have holes drill them your self and put in the rgb leds!!! So so simple!! Bad idea to have them in block as this just increase the price when it is so easy to do your self!!!!


----------



## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Most ek clear blocks have holes for leds, so just put one in.. If it don't have holes drill them your self and put in the rgb leds!!! So so simple!! Bad idea to have them in block as this just increase the price when it is so easy to do your self!!!!


i mein as an Option !! An rgb Led kit 2 led,s Right Size with THe connector directly from ek as an Addon ! For normal ppl it is not easy to find THe right connector and LEDs that work with THe Card ! That Would ne a simple Addon to buy and attatch to THe Block !

(**** off German autocorrection when i Write english -.-)


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oO-Waschbaer-Oo*
> 
> i mein as an Option !! An rgb Led kit 2 led,s Right Size with THe connector directly from ek as an Addon ! For normal ppl it is not easy to find THe right connector and LEDs that work with THe Card ! That Would ne a simple Addon to buy and attatch to THe Block !
> 
> (**** off German autocorrection when i Write english -.-)


Sorry
But it is all easy to find leds are either 3mm or 5 mm then need same size drill bit!! I am in mobile or i could link you to how to do it on here do a search!! For drilling blicks for leds!! Maybe someone else can help with this?????


----------



## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Sorry
> But it is all easy to find leds are either 3mm or 5 mm then need same size drill bit!! I am in mobile or i could link you to how to do it on here do a search!! For drilling blicks for leds!! Maybe someone else can help with this?????


every ek plexi block has led holes .. and the leds need to be compatible .. current and voltage wise and what about the special connectors ?? msi and vega use to power their leds ??? these arent easy to find ... ek is in direct contact with some manufactures of graphics card so why shouldnt they give an option for normal people who arent electronicengeniering interested to buy a set of 2 premade rgb leds with the connector to put them into the block ?? that is only extra cost for the ppl who want to buy them and i dont think that ek would charge us 30 or 40 dollars for this ...


----------



## Chi3fy

Almost finished my build with lots of EK goodies...




Just wondering how much junk people are getting out of their radiators when flushing? I've ordered some Mayhems to do a proper clean...but man, what an effort!


Spoiler: Warning: Content not safe for custom loops!


----------



## wermad

its common on some radiators. I would run it a few times through the hot tap to make sure any debris is flushed out.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

all 3 of my EK XE rads looked about like that if not worse when flushing. Seems to be common, i spent a lot of time flushing them because of it.


----------



## Boost240

Can I flush with hot tap water and then use distilled water for the final few rinses? Anything else in the loop need to be flushed before I assemble?


----------



## Elmy

EK Monoblock on the MSI Z170 Titanium. Soooo Purdy!!!!


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elmy*
> 
> EK Monoblock on the MSI Z170 Titanium. Soooo Purdy!!!!


I could stay on Z170 with that keep my theme and my CPU but is the board stable? Any issues at all? I need rock solid stable and the Deluxe is nowhere near that which sent me hunting for a white(ish) replacement or all black that is not from ASUS but read that all vendors are having various issues in the Z170 chipset. I cannot even stabilize with a custom loop with everything set to stock clocks...even ram manually set to a non OC speed.

Temps have been ruled out obviously...everything is ice cold
Voltage has been ruled out
PSU is new and ruled out(ordered another to try)
GPU was ruled out
Software ruled out
Every BIOS version tried
Replaced CMOS battery in case it was the problem

Settings do not hold on the board and it hangs(on every version of BIOS). ASUS support has been playing the blame game since day 1 (blaming EK, AMD, the shop that did my cooling array, Realtek, and Intel)....and all of those have been proven to be FUD.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Hey, got a question and hope to get an answer







my system is running the EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump) combo and I want to know what to buy and how to separate the unit into a standalone pump and res. I want to do it because I will be moving to a Parvum M1.0 and could hide the pump in the back, thanks


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Hey, got a question and hope to get an answer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my system is running the EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump) combo and I want to know what to buy and how to separate the unit into a standalone pump and res. I want to do it because I will be moving to a Parvum M1.0 and could hide the pump in the back, thanks


You'll need to get an adapter for the pump top, then flip the res upside down and use that G 1/4" to connect to your pump. Then buy a lid for the other end.



That black adapter that goes with the pump only sales.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boost240*
> 
> Can I flush with hot tap water and then use distilled water for the final few rinses? Anything else in the loop need to be flushed before I assemble?


Yuppers









Blocks and reservoirs should be clear but it dont hurt to at least do a simple distilled flush. If your using soft tube, run a cleaning or prep kit or just flush it.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> You'll need to get an adapter for the pump top, then flip the res upside down and use that G 1/4" to connect to your pump. Then buy a lid for the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> That black adapter that goes with the pump only sales.


So basically I need to get a pump top?







nice, thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Hey, got a question and hope to get an answer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my system is running the EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump) combo and I want to know what to buy and how to separate the unit into a standalone pump and res. I want to do it because I will be moving to a Parvum M1.0 and could hide the pump in the back, thanks


For the pump part, you'll need to buy one of these pump tops

EK-XTOP Revo D5 - Plexi
EK-XTOP Revo D5 - Acetal
For the reservoir part, unfortunately we don't sell the bottom res part in black acetal alone. Only in white acetal.









So for the reservoir it's a bit more complicated.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> For the pump part, you'll need to buy one of these pump tops
> 
> EK-XTOP Revo D5 - Plexi
> EK-XTOP Revo D5 - Acetal
> For the reservoir part, unfortunately we don't sell the bottom res part in black acetal alone. Only in white acetal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So for the reservoir it's a bit more complicated.


White is good, seeing as my build is only black and white themed







thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> White is good, seeing as my build is only black and white themed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


Cool then









You can see the different white acetal parts for your reservoir : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs/accessories-spare-parts/ek-res-x3-series


----------



## Guinsoona

Hi guys I'm new to water cooling,

I'd like to know whether the EK P240 kit is sufficient for a CPU + GPU loop? Thinking of purchasing this, then add on a gpu block to the loop.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Guinsoona*
> 
> Hi guys I'm new to cooling,
> 
> I'd like to know whether the EK P240 kit is sufficient for a CPU + GPU loop? Thinking of purchasing this, then add on a gpu block to the loop.


I thought you were Guinsoona.... ?

@Newtocooling










I am sorry, I couldn't pass that up.

Yes, the 240 Kit will work fine. Slap in your gpu block after you record temps with the CPU only, and then give us some feedback on the difference when you add the GPU.

TCO


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Guinsoona*
> 
> Hi guys I'm new to water cooling,
> 
> I'd like to know whether the EK P240 kit is sufficient for a CPU + GPU loop? Thinking of purchasing this, then add on a gpu block to the loop.


It is plausible, but don't expect super low temperatures.
Of course cooler than air most likely. If you can fit the 360 radiator version in your case that would give you some more headroom. But a 240 can cool CPU and GPU. Just not with the lowest temperatures


----------



## Guinsoona

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I thought you were Guinsoona.... ?
> 
> @Newtocooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am sorry, I couldn't pass that up.
> 
> Yes, the 240 Kit will work fine. Slap in your gpu block after you record temps with the CPU only, and then give us some feedback on the difference when you add the GPU.
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> It is plausible, but don't expect super low temperatures.
> Of course cooler than air most likely. If you can fit the 360 radiator version in your case that would give you some more headroom. But a 240 can cool CPU and GPU. Just not with the lowest temperatures


Heh, thanks for the replies guys.

So, the pump would be strong enough to pump through both the CPU+GPU blocks eh?


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Guinsoona*
> 
> Heh, thanks for the replies guys.
> 
> So, the pump would be strong enough to pump through both the CPU+GPU blocks eh?


It looks like a D5, so yeah! Plenty strong


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I thought you were Guinsoona.... ?
> 
> @Newtocooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am sorry, I couldn't pass that up.
> 
> Yes, the 240 Kit will work fine. Slap in your gpu block after you record temps with the CPU only, and then give us some feedback on the difference when you add the GPU.
> 
> TCO


Hey that's my name


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Guinsoona*
> 
> Heh, thanks for the replies guys.
> 
> So, the pump would be strong enough to pump through both the CPU+GPU blocks eh?


Most definitely









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Hey that's my name


I know, it was so close that I couldn't pass it up.

TCO


----------



## AllGamer

Hey guys in the last few pages, there has been talk about flushing the radiators to remove debris and junk.

There was mention of using special liquids and or distilled water.

What about using regular tap water and then drying it out with a compressor air?

I think is more efficient if I hook it up to a power washer, that should remove all stuff from the inside, then use the compressor air to dry it up well, before putting it back into the gaming rig.

Another question, do I need to do the flush the radiator on a brand new unit ordered direct from EK website?


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Hey guys in the last few pages, there has been talk about flushing the radiators to remove debris and junk.
> 
> There was mention of using special liquids and or distilled water.
> 
> What about using regular tap water and then drying it out with a compressor air?
> 
> I think is more efficient if I hook it up to a power washer, that should remove all stuff from the inside, then use the compressor air to dry it up well, before putting it back into the gaming rig.
> 
> Another question, do I need to do the flush the radiator on a brand new unit ordered direct from EK website?


Yes, definitely when they are new from EK. Could be slag from the brazing process leftover from assembly. There are special cleaners available but they aren't necessary. I just used hot tap water followed by a distilled water rinse and let it air dry. Haven't had any problems yet. I don't know if I'd trust any kind of pressure wash system. I have no idea what pressure these are rated for but I wouldn't want to find out the hard way.


----------



## 0ldChicken

@AllGamer most rads are only tested to 1 bar (15psi iirc) so I think I'd avoid the power washer unless it's something different than what I'm thinking (gas powered and has a garden hose connection). I air test rads for leaks and stopped going over 7psi since the tubes can be really thin. I personally use diluted vinegar with hot water and then rinse extremely well with tap water and then rinse again with distilled. Although I've heard from others that use the same method, that blitz (mayhems cleaner) will still remove a ton of stuff AFTER a good vinegar/hot water cleaning.

Also unless you've got an inline filter, I'd probably avoid drying with an air compressor (maybe even still). If you are going to then definitely rinse with distilled first otherwise the minerals and contaminants in the tap water will get left behind after the water dries.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Yes, definitely when they are new from EK. Could be slag from the brazing process leftover from assembly. There are special cleaners available but they aren't necessary. I just used hot tap water followed by a distilled water rinse and let it air dry. Haven't had any problems yet. I don't know if I'd trust any kind of pressure wash system. I have no idea what pressure these are rated for but I wouldn't want to find out the hard way.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Hey guys in the last few pages, there has been talk about flushing the radiators to remove debris and junk.
> 
> There was mention of using special liquids and or distilled water.
> 
> What about using regular tap water and then drying it out with a compressor air?
> 
> I think is more efficient if I hook it up to a power washer, that should remove all stuff from the inside, then use the compressor air to dry it up well, before putting it back into the gaming rig.
> 
> Another question, do I need to do the flush the radiator on a brand new unit ordered direct from EK website?


Do not use pressure washer!! I can not remember for sure but think rads are rated fir about 10 psi is all!! It is in here some where but i not find it!!!


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Cool then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the different white acetal parts for your reservoir : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs/accessories-spare-parts/ek-res-x3-series


Thank you, Akira, you helped quite a lot







Now to get a plexi pump top, and white top and bottom of the res and I am good to go







it will look awesome in the Parvum M1.0
Also I need to check on my stockpile of plugs for the res ports, if I have enough of them







And I will probably get a taller reservoir tube, too







decisions, decisions...


----------



## AllGamer

Thanks for the warning seross69, 0ldChicken, well noted, I did not realize the internal parts of the radiator were so "fragile"









I guess I'll just stick with hotwater flush as many of you mentioned.

vinegar might not be necessary until a few months later when buildups starts to form.

I placed an order for the Extreme EK-KIT X240 + GTX1080 waterblock, just making sure to have the radiator nice and clean before I install it permanently into my rig.

It's going to take a long while for it to arrive from Euro to America.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> It's going to take a long while for it to arrive from Euro to America.


I ordered my MonoBlock direct from EK. Only took 5 days to get to Ohio. Shouldn't take too long for you.


----------



## AllGamer

While I'm waiting for the EK kit to arrive.

I'm considering changing my case to one that is more Custom Water Cooling friendly.

I'm currently using Antec LanBoy Air listed in my profile, originally I picked it up for easy carrying around to LAN parties and stuff, it also has excellent ventilation.

But now that I want to add some serious Water Cooling I noticed the case is just too compact to fit stuff internally.

There was another case I liked the Cooler Master something, black with 2 bars on the top and 2 on the bottom, forgot the model name, but it looked like an SUV equivalent for a PC








but that model is no longer available, and it's too hard to find a new case.

I'm currently looking around for a new case with big windows and plenty of room for a Water cooling kit. + lots of HDD space (hot swap)

--- EDIT ---

Cooler Master COSMOS SE (COS-5000-KWN1) that's the name I forgot.

Thermaltake Core X9, and Core 7 both looks interesting as well, but I still prefer the Cosmos better, as it's easier to grab and go.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Is there a huge performance difference between the Evo and MX blocks?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Is there a huge performance difference between the Evo and MX blocks?


I believe under 3ç but I'll check


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> While I'm waiting for the EK kit to arrive.
> 
> I'm considering changing my case to one that is more Custom Water Cooling friendly.
> 
> I'm currently using Antec LanBoy Air listed in my profile, originally I picked it up for easy carrying around to LAN parties and stuff, it also has excellent ventilation.
> 
> But now that I want to add some serious Water Cooling I noticed the case is just too compact to fit stuff internally.
> 
> There was another case I liked the Cooler Master something, black with 2 bars on the top and 2 on the bottom, forgot the model name, but it looked like an SUV equivalent for a PC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but that model is no longer available, and it's too hard to find a new case.
> 
> I'm currently looking around for a new case with big windows and plenty of room for a Water cooling kit. + lots of HDD space (hot swap)
> 
> --- EDIT ---
> 
> Cooler Master COSMOS SE (COS-5000-KWN1) that's the name I forgot.
> 
> Thermaltake Core X9, and Core 7 both looks interesting as well, but I still prefer the Cosmos better, as it's easier to grab and go.


Get a case labs case and be done with it!!! Best case


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Is there a huge performance difference between the Evo and MX blocks?


1-2 °C depending on the heat loads. The Supremacy MX has no socket specific inserts/jetplates included, and the cold plate has fewer microchannels occupying a smaller area.


----------



## IT Diva

Does anyone know offhand what the threading is on the EK internal tube . .the 16/12 acrylic one for using a top port as an inlet?

Hoping it might be something standard like G3/8 or G1/2

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Does anyone know offhand what the threading is on the EK internal tube . .the 16/12 acrylic one for using a top port as an inlet?
> 
> Hoping it might be something standard like G3/8 or G1/2
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Darlene


Here is the Tech Data for the X3 inlet tube.

Technical data:
- Lenght: 104mm
- Diamater: 60mm (OD) / 50mm (ID)

Linky to It

EK Link To Their Website states that it is G 1/4









TCO


----------



## paskowitz

Anyone have the dimensions of the EK-DBAY with the D5 pump installed?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Does anyone know offhand what the threading is on the EK internal tube . .the 16/12 acrylic one for using a top port as an inlet?
> 
> Hoping it might be something standard like G3/8 or G1/2
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the Tech Data for the X3 inlet tube.
> 
> Technical data:
> - Lenght: 104mm
> - Diamater: 60mm (OD) / 50mm (ID)
> 
> Linky to It
> 
> EK Link To Their Website states that it is G 1/4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

I don't mean the main res tube, I'm talking about the internal tube . . . the little smaller one that goes inside with a multiport top . .

This one:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-200mm.html

Has an external thread on one end, would like to use it in a BP 400mm res if I can get a drill and tap for the thread size.

Darlene


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I don't mean the main res tube, I'm talking about the internal tube . . . the little smaller one that goes inside with a multiport top . .
> 
> This one:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-200mm.html
> 
> Has an external thread on one end, would like to use it in a BP 400mm res if I can get a drill and tap for the thread size.
> 
> Darlene


Darlene the thread is g1/4 and the od of the tube is same as threads, you will need a g1/4 tap


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I don't mean the main res tube, I'm talking about the internal tube . . . the little smaller one that goes inside with a multiport top . .
> 
> This one:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-200mm.html
> 
> Has an external thread on one end, would like to use it in a BP 400mm res if I can get a drill and tap for the thread size.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene the thread is g1/4 and the od of the tube is same as threads, you will need a g1/4 tap
Click to expand...

G1/4 threads are just shy of 13mm od.

If the tube is 12mm id, that leaves about 0.020" or half a mm for the threads, so it has to be bigger than G1/4

I may be old and senile, but a tube size of 12mm id by 16mm od, does not add up to having a G1/4 male thread.

OTOH, the 16mm OD matches nicely to G3/8, and McMaster has the tap and drill bit.

Hoping that @akira749 can confirm that size.

D.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> While I'm waiting for the EK kit to arrive.
> 
> I'm considering changing my case to one that is more Custom Water Cooling friendly.
> 
> I'm currently using Antec LanBoy Air listed in my profile, originally I picked it up for easy carrying around to LAN parties and stuff, it also has excellent ventilation.
> 
> But now that I want to add some serious Water Cooling I noticed the case is just too compact to fit stuff internally.
> 
> There was another case I liked the Cooler Master something, black with 2 bars on the top and 2 on the bottom, forgot the model name, but it looked like an SUV equivalent for a PC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but that model is no longer available, and it's too hard to find a new case.
> 
> I'm currently looking around for a new case with big windows and plenty of room for a Water cooling kit. + lots of HDD space (hot swap)
> 
> --- EDIT ---
> 
> Cooler Master COSMOS SE (COS-5000-KWN1) that's the name I forgot.
> 
> Thermaltake Core X9, and Core 7 both looks interesting as well, but I still prefer the Cosmos better, as it's easier to grab and go.
> 
> 
> 
> Get a case labs case and be done with it!!! Best case
Click to expand...

seross69 is right, nothing like a CaseLabs case.
http://www.caselabs-store.com/

But if they're beyond your budget, I understand.
But please, don't buy a case from Thermalfake!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> G1/4 threads are just shy of 13mm od.
> 
> If the tube is 12mm id, that leaves about 0.020" or half a mm for the threads, so it has to be bigger than G1/4
> 
> I may be old and senile, but a tube size of 12mm id by 16mm od, does not add up to having a G1/4 male thread.
> 
> OTOH, the 16mm OD matches nicely to G3/8, and McMaster has the tap and drill bit.
> 
> Hoping that @AKIRA749 can confirm that size.
> 
> D.


I have screwed these tubes in same holes i out fittings just checking them so i am 99.99% sure that the threads are g1/4. But i am getting old so better to check if he has not let tou know by tommorrow i will check again and send pic's


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> G1/4 threads are just shy of 13mm od.
> 
> If the tube is 12mm id, that leaves about 0.020" or half a mm for the threads, so it has to be bigger than G1/4
> 
> I may be old and senile, but a tube size of 12mm id by 16mm od, does not add up to having a G1/4 male thread.
> 
> OTOH, the 16mm OD matches nicely to G3/8, and McMaster has the tap and drill bit.
> 
> Hoping that @akira749 can confirm that size.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> I have screwed these tubes in same holes i out fittings just checking them so i am 99.99% sure that the threads are g1/4. But i am getting old so better to check if he has not let tou know by tommorrow i will check again and send pic's
Click to expand...

I agree that it would seem logical to have them the same size as everything else, just like the Bitspower water tube is G1/4 . . .

But the description says 12X16mm, and the see thru pic shows the thread area as almost as big as the OD of the port plugs:

Maybe they've changed the design since the X2 series and made them larger diameter.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i'll tell you what you already know. no, the thread is not g1/4 and its what ek did to make sure they sold _*their*_ clear internal tube. i linked to a source once but i cant find it. even the ppcs links that i put in a thread once are dead.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1467436/ek-multioption-tube-res-internal-threading

i dont know where this member is now but he also has an internal tube...


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> seross69 is right, nothing like a CaseLabs case.
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/
> 
> But if they're beyond your budget, I understand.
> But please, don't buy a case from Thermalfake!


Budget is not an issue, but wait time is some what an issue.

So, after checking out all their options, I like the Mercury S8 the most, which Now I know why you call Thermafake as the X9 seems to be a rip off of the Mercury S8









Mercury S8 - Customizable
Case Color: *Black 6-7 weeks for processing*
Form Factor: *SSI EEB* ($10.00)
Top Chassis Mount: Drop-in 120.3 x 2 mount ($20.00)
Top Cover: Full Window (requires a drop-in top chassis) ($...
Left Door: XL Window (adds $20.00)
Right Door : XL Window (adds $20.00)
Front Cover: Window (This option will delete the 120.2 mount...
Flex-Bay Configuration: 120.2 Mount with Ventilated Bay Covers ($24.00)
Lower Left Chamber Configuration: 120.3 (360) Side Mount
Power and Reset Switch: Standard Power/Reset Switches with Sleeved Cables
I/O Panel: USB 3.0/HD Audio ($25.00)

man 6 weeks wait.... not including shipping time, that's like 2 to 3 months....
well I guess I could use it for my next project









I have a question.
if I choose the SSI EEB option, does it let me use regular size ATX and EATX motherboards?

Whenever I get a case, I keep it forever, so I want it to be able to fit all motherboard sizes including the Double Xeon / i7 motherboards from ASUS and Supermicro

That Mercury S8 case is awesome for Watercooling, lots of Radiator mount spaces, 2 on the top, 1 on the side, and I'll keep the front 5.25 bays for HDDs, I'm a sucker for windows, If traded in the windows I could add even more Radiator spaces, but then... what's the point if you can't see anything inside with the Rads blocking the view


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Budget is not an issue, but wait time is some what an issue.
> 
> So, after checking out all their options, I like the Mercury S8 the most, which Now I know why you call Thermafake as the X9 seems to be a rip off of the Mercury S8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mercury S8 - Customizable
> Case Color: *Black 6-7 weeks for processing*
> Form Factor: *SSI EEB* ($10.00)
> Top Chassis Mount: Drop-in 120.3 x 2 mount ($20.00)
> Top Cover: Full Window (requires a drop-in top chassis) ($...
> Left Door: XL Window (adds $20.00)
> Right Door : XL Window (adds $20.00)
> Front Cover: Window (This option will delete the 120.2 mount...
> Flex-Bay Configuration: 120.2 Mount with Ventilated Bay Covers ($24.00)
> Lower Left Chamber Configuration: 120.3 (360) Side Mount
> Power and Reset Switch: Standard Power/Reset Switches with Sleeved Cables
> I/O Panel: USB 3.0/HD Audio ($25.00)
> 
> man 6 weeks wait.... not including shipping time, that's like 2 to 3 months....
> well I guess I could use it for my next project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a question.
> *if I choose the SSI EEB option, does it let me use regular size ATX and EATX motherboards?
> 
> Whenever I get a case, I keep it forever, so I want it to be able to fit all motherboard sizes including the Double Xeon / i7 motherboards from ASUS and Supermicro*
> 
> Yes you can or even mATX or ITX
> 
> That Mercury S8 case is awesome for Watercooling, lots of Radiator mount spaces, 2 on the top, 1 on the side, and I'll keep the front 5.25 bays for HDDs, I'm a sucker for windows, If traded in the windows I could add even more Radiator spaces, but then... what's the point if you can't see anything inside with the Rads blocking the view


if you want more rads get a pedestal or 2 or 3!!!


----------



## DarthBaggins

So far loving this case I picked up, and the supremacy mx block:


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> seross69 is right, nothing like a CaseLabs case.
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/
> 
> But if they're beyond your budget, I understand.
> But please, don't buy a case from Thermalfake!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Budget is not an issue, but wait time is some what an issue.
> 
> So, after checking out all their options, I like the Mercury S8 the most, which Now I know why you call Thermafake as the X9 seems to be a rip off of the Mercury S8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mercury S8 - Customizable
> Case Color: *Black 6-7 weeks for processing*
> Form Factor: *SSI EEB* ($10.00)
> Top Chassis Mount: Drop-in 120.3 x 2 mount ($20.00)
> Top Cover: Full Window (requires a drop-in top chassis) ($...
> Left Door: XL Window (adds $20.00)
> Right Door : XL Window (adds $20.00)
> Front Cover: Window (This option will delete the 120.2 mount...
> Flex-Bay Configuration: 120.2 Mount with Ventilated Bay Covers ($24.00)
> Lower Left Chamber Configuration: 120.3 (360) Side Mount
> Power and Reset Switch: Standard Power/Reset Switches with Sleeved Cables
> I/O Panel: USB 3.0/HD Audio ($25.00)
> 
> man 6 weeks wait.... not including shipping time, that's like 2 to 3 months....
> well I guess I could use it for my next project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a question.
> if I choose the SSI EEB option, does it let me use regular size ATX and EATX motherboards?
> 
> Whenever I get a case, I keep it forever, so I want it to be able to fit all motherboard sizes including the Double Xeon / i7 motherboards from ASUS and Supermicro
> 
> That Mercury S8 case is awesome for Watercooling, lots of Radiator mount spaces, 2 on the top, 1 on the side, and I'll keep the front 5.25 bays for HDDs, I'm a sucker for windows, If traded in the windows I could add even more Radiator spaces, but then... what's the point if you can't see anything inside with the Rads blocking the view
Click to expand...

That is fantastic, you're very knowledgeable!
Rep+









Very nice options you've chosen for the S8.









The SSS EEB tray allows you to use most EATX boards, but so does the regular size ATX tray.
Here's the chart from CaseLabs, if you scroll down the page a bit:
http://www.caselabs-store.com/mercury-s8-customizable/
I have both trays, my EATX board fits either, but there is no overhang with the SSS EEB tray.

As for the wait, even in North America there is that wait as well, but CaseLabs makes these cases to order for their customers, so there is a good reason for it.
And it's well worth waiting for.

I can relate to what you said about wanting to keep the case forever. I'll likely never part with mine either.
I had so many cheap cases from various Asian companies over the years, I just grew tired of their flimsy plastic and stamped-steel construction.
Nothing has matched the versatility of the S8 for watercooling that I've had.

It has contributed to an ever-growing EK purchase habit for me though, lol.
I just bought a longer 250mm res. tube from EK, to replace the shorter one on my EK res., as there is plenty of room for it in the S8, and it looks good in that front window.

I just fitted a new EK KPE block on my 980 Ti KPE, no problem, room to spare for the extra-wide card.
And the Supremacy cpu block I just purchased, that was another EK must-have, it'll be a nice replacement for my aging Raystorm block.

Just a little while longer to wait, it'll go fast, lol.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 1-2 °C depending on the heat loads. The Supremacy MX has no insert, and the cold plate has fewer microchannels occupying a smaller area.


no insert? My MX came with the same inserts shown in all the EVO reviews that I've seen as far as I can tell


----------



## VSG

Ugh yes, it does. Not sure what I was thinking there, very likely just the socket specific inserts and jetplates not being included out of the box.



Probably too much time spent on this little thing:




























Acetal top mistake aside, I liked this combination. That new EK D5 PWM G2 pump works as advertised too:


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ugh yes, it does. Not sure what I was thinking there, very likely just the socket specific inserts and jetplates not being included out of the box.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably too much time spent on this little thing:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Acetal top mistake aside, I liked this combination. That new EK D5 PWM G2 pump works as advertised too:


Good info.

Found an excellent review on the EK-XTOP REVO D5 and the new EK D5 PWM pump:
http://thermalbench.com/2016/06/15/ek-xtop-revo-d5-featuring-the-ek-d5-pwm-g2-pump/


----------



## VSG




----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*











does he know? lol


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> does he know? lol
Click to expand...

I sure know, and I'll keep posting these fine reviews from geg, er, VSG, as long as I'm allowed to, lol.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Anyone have the dimensions of the EK-DBAY with the D5 pump installed?


You're most probably talk about the total depth of the unit.

I don't have the measurement so I will ask and let you know.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> G1/4 threads are just shy of 13mm od.
> 
> If the tube is 12mm id, that leaves about 0.020" or half a mm for the threads, so it has to be bigger than G1/4
> 
> I may be old and senile, but a tube size of 12mm id by 16mm od, does not add up to having a G1/4 male thread.
> 
> OTOH, the 16mm OD matches nicely to G3/8, and McMaster has the tap and drill bit.
> 
> Hoping that @akira749 can confirm that size.
> 
> D.


It's not G1/4 from what I remember but I don't know which is it.

I will ask and get back at you Darlene.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I sure know, and I'll keep posting these fine reviews from geg, er, VSG, as long as I'm allowed to, lol.


no complaints here! I remember when I first made a few of the connections between reviewers/their forum counterparts. It's like existing among humble celebrities!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ok love the ZMT tubing, along with the black nickel fittings. So I give you the Lil Console Killer.


----------



## Rikuo

https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=2001

EK now shows a listing for the Msi Gaming 1080 waterblock.

But if you try to add it to your cart, It 404's you.


----------



## Enapace

Well they did say late June for the block to be ready we are in the second half of the month so to see it in the next week or two would be on schedule.

Is there any more information on a possible release date of the EK SLI Bridge ?

Hope the 1080 Gold backplates are available to buy soon. Doing a Red/Gold build.


----------



## Chi3fy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> its common on some radiators. I would run it a few times through the hot tap to make sure any debris is flushed out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> all 3 of my EK XE rads looked about like that if not worse when flushing. Seems to be common, i spent a lot of time flushing them because of it.


At least I'm not alone with this. I did a hot water flush, and got to the point where next to nothing is coming out now. But to be safe, I'll do a Mayhems clean and install a filter before the rad feeds the CPU block.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Anyone have the dimensions of the EK-DBAY with the D5 pump installed?
> 
> 
> 
> You're most probably talk about the total depth of the unit.
> 
> I don't have the measurement so I will ask and let you know.
Click to expand...

It's 108mm


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> G1/4 threads are just shy of 13mm od.
> 
> If the tube is 12mm id, that leaves about 0.020" or half a mm for the threads, so it has to be bigger than G1/4
> 
> I may be old and senile, but a tube size of 12mm id by 16mm od, does not add up to having a G1/4 male thread.
> 
> OTOH, the 16mm OD matches nicely to G3/8, and McMaster has the tap and drill bit.
> 
> Hoping that @akira749 can confirm that size.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> It's not G1/4 from what I remember but I don't know which is it.
> 
> I will ask and get back at you Darlene.
Click to expand...

The thread is M16x1.5 Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> G1/4 threads are just shy of 13mm od.
> 
> If the tube is 12mm id, that leaves about 0.020" or half a mm for the threads, so it has to be bigger than G1/4
> 
> I may be old and senile, but a tube size of 12mm id by 16mm od, does not add up to having a G1/4 male thread.
> 
> OTOH, the 16mm OD matches nicely to G3/8, and McMaster has the tap and drill bit.
> 
> Hoping that @akira749 can confirm that size.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> It's not G1/4 from what I remember but I don't know which is it.
> 
> I will ask and get back at you Darlene.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The thread is M16x1.5 Darlene
Click to expand...

Thanks . .









For the cost of a drill and tap, I'm almost better off to buy the res parts and assemble what I need from them . .

First world decisions . . .









D.


----------



## dilster97

I'm currently wondering if i was right to buy the Supremacy EVO X99 for my new X99 setup (5820K) since the current EVO has the jet plate and insert for the LGA2011-3 processor.

Does the EVO X99 have a advantage over the standard EVO maybe with overall size?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the cost of a drill and tap, I'm almost better off to buy the res parts and assemble what I need from them . .
> 
> First world decisions . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


Darlene sorry for bad information, I guess my age is catching up with me but I would have bet money I had screwed them into a G1/4 hole but I guess not dont know why I remember this my mind is starting to remember things that never happened!!!







but I did try it and no worky don't know what I remember!!!! Sorry again


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> I'm currently wondering if i was right to buy the Supremacy EVO X99 for my new X99 setup (5820K) since the current EVO has the jet plate and insert for the LGA2011-3 processor.
> 
> Does the EVO X99 have a advantage over the standard EVO maybe with overall size?


Not really, but you did get a quicker mounting setup.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> I'm currently wondering if i was right to buy the Supremacy EVO X99 for my new X99 setup (5820K) since the current EVO has the jet plate and insert for the LGA2011-3 processor.
> 
> Does the EVO X99 have a advantage over the standard EVO maybe with overall size?


The main goal with the X99 was also to have an EVO at a smaller price since it didn't included any extra jet plates and mounting mechanisms.


----------



## kl6mk6

Wow, this is kinda cool. Any hints on the MSRP?

*[Tom's Hardware] MSI, EKWB Partner On Liquid-Cooled GTX 1080, 1070 Sea Hawk EK X Graphics Cards*


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Wow, this is kinda cool. Any hints on the MSRP?
> 
> *[Tom's Hardware] MSI, EKWB Partner On Liquid-Cooled GTX 1080, 1070 Sea Hawk EK X Graphics Cards*


Lol, well no wonder EVGA got pissed. But that looks killer, glad to see EK partnering up, can only mean good things for us end users!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Lol, well no wonder EVGA got pissed. But that looks killer, glad to see EK partnering up, can only mean good things for us end users!


It was the other way round from what I heard, EVGA went another direction without notice and then MSI and EK worked together. Then again, (a) this isn't a reference PCB so it's not a direct comparison/replacement to the Hydrocopper, more like a Classified Hydrocopper and (b) MSI has been pricing their 10xx cards a lot higher than anyone else. So I am afraid to see what this will cost.


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not really, but you did get a quicker mounting setup.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The main goal with the X99 was also to have an EVO at a smaller price since it didn't included any extra jet plates and mounting mechanisms.


huh. Block is already on it's way from an eBay seller :I

I guess if i ever need to go back to 1155 i've a block ready to go for it. Or anything else.

ah well, it'll live.


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Wow, this is kinda cool. Any hints on the MSRP?
> 
> *[Tom's Hardware] MSI, EKWB Partner On Liquid-Cooled GTX 1080, 1070 Sea Hawk EK X Graphics Cards*


This certainly seems interesting depends on how much it comes out at it they are going be cards I go with.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Lol, well no wonder EVGA got pissed. But that looks killer, glad to see EK partnering up, can only mean good things for us end users!
> 
> 
> 
> It was the other way round from what I heard, EVGA went another direction without notice and then MSI and EK worked together. Then again, (a) this isn't a reference PCB so it's not a direct comparison/replacement to the Hydrocopper, more like a Classified Hydrocopper and (b) MSI has been pricing their 10xx cards a lot higher than anyone else. So I am afraid to see what this will cost.
Click to expand...

Thanks for correcting me, that's actually what I meant was that EVGA probably didn't want to renew the partnership and that's where the rough road the last month or so came from.

I'm actually glad to finally see more retail gpu's with blocks already on them, I think it's well due at this point since water cooling is so mainstream. As fun as it is to install a block on a gpu there is still those slight nerves you get when doing it.


----------



## batmanwcm

Either way, I'm interested in that 1070 Seahawk. I'm just worried that MSI will price gouge this.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Lol, well no wonder EVGA got pissed. But that looks killer, glad to see EK partnering up, can only mean good things for us end users!
> 
> 
> 
> It was the other way round from what I heard, *EVGA went another direction without notice* and then MSI and EK worked together. Then again, (a) this isn't a reference PCB so it's not a direct comparison/replacement to the Hydrocopper, more like a Classified Hydrocopper and (b) MSI has been pricing their 10xx cards a lot higher than anyone else. So I am afraid to see what this will cost.
Click to expand...

Hmm, it seems this isn't the first time EVGA has done that, lol.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Wow, this is kinda cool. Any hints on the MSRP?
> 
> *[Tom's Hardware] MSI, EKWB Partner On Liquid-Cooled GTX 1080, 1070 Sea Hawk EK X Graphics Cards*


I do not like this as I like a full cover block!!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I do not like this as I like a full cover block!!


I like this, the acrylic makes the card a bit stronger so doesn't flex as much but the full cover acrylic looks good in person. Well atleast on my EVGA 970 card.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I do not like this as I like a full cover block!!


You mean full length right? The plexi actually covers both sides of the PCB where there is no coolant passing through:


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You mean full length right? The plexi actually covers both sides of the PCB where there is no coolant passing through:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would imagine that the more metal used in making the block full length would increase how much heat it absorbs? I'm no scientist so probably wrong on that, if there is more heat in more material wouldn't it transfer into the coolant making the coolant temp increase? Sounds like a bad time considering that pascal and maxwell love to stay cold when overclocking, you can't just pump voltage in to them and expect them to scale very well.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I would imagine that the more metal used in making the block full length would increase how much heat it absorbs? I'm no scientist so probably wrong on that, if there is more heat in more material wouldn't it transfer into the coolant making the coolant temp increase? Sounds like a bad time considering that pascal and maxwell love to stay cold when overclocking, you can't just pump voltage in to them and expect them to scale very well.


Not enough to counter that massive increase in weight and cost.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not enough to counter that massive increase in weight and cost.


No what I mean is it's better to have less metal there to soak up all that heat, having the block built just to make contact with what needs contact is better than day of old.


----------



## Boost240

I did it! I'm so proud of myself right now lol. I was frustrated for awhile. Almost gave up. The fans, San Aces, gave me some trouble as they are 38mm thick compared to the Vardars which are 25mm thick. In the end, I made it work. The kit is the EK Performance 360. If I were to do it again I'd build a kit from the ground up. My biggest issue was with the fittings. A few bent fittings would have gone a long way to making the bends of the hose easier. Also the hose was easy to kink. Again, I made it work









Do I have to really leak test it for 24hrs? I'm so excited. I want to turn this bad boy on!


----------



## guitarhero23

MSI block is cool but I just want a 1070 block. Well not anymore because with no news from EK and the short supply of 1070 cards had to go with an older one to ensure I get my build done in time. Oh well maybe next time.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Wow, this is kinda cool. Any hints on the MSRP?
> 
> *[Tom's Hardware] MSI, EKWB Partner On Liquid-Cooled GTX 1080, 1070 Sea Hawk EK X Graphics Cards*


Holy things I'm not allowed to say on the forums here.... Man that is gorgeous! It seriously makes me contemplate the idea of the nickel see through blocks even though I'm more for Acetal....


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Wow, this is kinda cool. Any hints on the MSRP?
> 
> *[Tom's Hardware] MSI, EKWB Partner On Liquid-Cooled GTX 1080, 1070 Sea Hawk EK X Graphics Cards*


Hmm, where's the rest of that block? Too much naked PCB for my taste


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boost240*
> 
> 
> 
> I did it! I'm so proud of myself right now lol. I was frustrated for awhile. Almost gave up. The fans, San Aces, gave me some trouble as they are 38mm thick compared to the Vardars which are 25mm thick. In the end, I made it work. The kit is the EK Performance 360. If I were to do it again I'd build a kit from the ground up. My biggest issue was with the fittings. A few bent fittings would have gone a long way to making the bends of the hose easier. Also the hose was easy to kink. Again, I made it work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I have to really leak test it for 24hrs? I'm so excited. I want to turn this bad boy on!


Looks great, except that the reservoir appears to have no top!
Are you going to be able to fit it on?

It's nice to see someone using 38mm fans for a change. San Ace fans are high-quality, industrial grade goodness.








Idk what the static pressure is on those, but I'll bet it's way up there!

Good job on the build.
You don't have to run it 24hrs. for the leak test, but it is better to be safe than sorry, as they say.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Hmm, it seems this isn't the first time EVGA has done that, lol.


Yup, and it starting to disappoint some. I don't get why EVGA is shooting themselves on the foot like that.


----------



## Kutalion

Considering the rx 480s can clock really well, can we expect blocks even tho they arent really highest end cards?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Considering the rx 480s can clock really well, can we expect blocks even tho they arent really highest end cards?


In on this as well. And if its in the works please send me one first before jayztwopennies so i can test it out.


----------



## muzammil84

rx480 won't be anything special. AMD does it every time, shows one benchmark when the card's doing well and says nothing about other benchmarks where it's eaten by Nvidia. and then releases another weak and disappointing card.
you're much better off getting gtx970 now as they're really cheap and water blocks are on sale(overclockers.co.uk sold them for £30!!), that OCed will beat rx480 in most games and work out cheaper if going water.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Considering the rx 480s can clock really well, can we expect blocks even tho they arent really highest end cards?


Let's wait for unbiased tests/reviews firsts before making such statements.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> rx480 won't be anything special. AMD does it every time, shows one benchmark when the card's doing well and says nothing about other benchmarks where it's eaten by Nvidia. and then releases another weak and disappointing card.
> you're much better off getting gtx970 now as they're really cheap and water blocks are on sale(overclockers.co.uk sold them for £30!!), that OCed will beat rx480 in most games and work out cheaper if going water.


No thanks and no thanks. I dont support companies with shoddy business practices. But thanks for the tip. If i wanted a gtx970 with 3.5gb ram buffer i would have bought one on release day, same way i can buy a 1080 with a waterblock and not break a sweat but again no thanks.

Theres been plenty of viable leaks already that prove that it can OC well. The boost clock is already 1266mhz confirmed by AMD, so why wouldnt it OC to 1400 which is a measly 140mhz oc.

And again i hate to repeat this for people who can't read. THE AMD RX 480 WAS NEVER EVER IN ANY WAY MEANT TO COMPETE WITH THE GTX 1070 AND GTX 1080, WE ARE NOT ALL NVIDIA FAN BOYS WHO UPGRADE CARDS JUST FOR THE SAKE OF UPGRADING. 30% OF GAMERS USE 1080P AND THATS THE MARKET AMD IS GOING AFTER WITH THE RX 480. AGAIN A 1080/1070 ARE NOT EVEN REMOTELY NEEDED FOR A GAME AT 1080P UNLESS YOURE PLAYING ON A 200HZ MONITOR.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> huh. Block is already on it's way from an eBay seller :I
> 
> I guess if i ever need to go back to 1155 i've a block ready to go for it. Or anything else.
> 
> ah well, it'll live.


What you bought is fine. You'll only need to buy a few things if you want to go back to 115x sockets.

EK-Supremacy EVO PreciseMount - Nickel
EK-Supremacy EVO Insert I1 - Plexi
EK-Supremacy EVO Backplate


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> What you bought is fine. You'll only need to buy a few things if you want to go back to 115x sockets.
> 
> EK-Supremacy EVO PreciseMount - Nickel
> EK-Supremacy EVO Insert I1 - Plexi
> EK-Supremacy EVO Backplate


Dear ek reps any eta on rx480 blocks? Be available at launch for reference boards?


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> No thanks and no thanks. I dont support companies with shoddy business practices. But thanks for the tip. If i wanted a gtx970 with 3.5gb ram buffer i would have bought one on release day, same way i can buy a 1080 with a waterblock and not break a sweat but again no thanks.
> 
> Theres been plenty of viable leaks already that prove that it can OC well. The boost clock is already 1266mhz confirmed by AMD, so why wouldnt it OC to 1400 which is a measly 140mhz oc.
> 
> And again i hate to repeat this for people who can't read. THE AMD RX 480 WAS NEVER EVER IN ANY WAY MEANT TO COMPETE WITH THE GTX 1070 AND GTX 1080, WE ARE NOT ALL NVIDIA FAN BOYS WHO UPGRADE CARDS JUST FOR THE SAKE OF UPGRADING. 30% OF GAMERS USE 1080P AND THATS THE MARKET AMD IS GOING AFTER WITH THE RX 480. AGAIN A 1080/1070 ARE NOT EVEN REMOTELY NEEDED FOR A GAME AT 1080P UNLESS YOURE PLAYING ON A 200HZ MONITOR.


I've never compared it to 1070/1080.
it's a 980ish class but as happened before(every time AMD releases a card really) it always turns to be weaker to what they state. Just saying gtx970 will still beat it when oced(and I'm pretty sure it will overclock much better than rx480) and you can get it for cheaper.
Gtx970 is a great card for what it costs now, runs every game on ultra settings @1080p with no problems, I had 3 different 970s, all were ocing very well and never experienced any issue with "only" 3.5 Gb memory. That rx480 is a 6pin card, I would worry about that limitation much more than 3.5gb memory on 970.
I'm not a Nvidia fanboy, I think the cards are way too dear and have issues too. But AMD simply cannot beat it performance-wise, they've always been behind and they will be.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Dear ek reps any eta on rx480 blocks? Be available at launch for reference boards?


We will probably but I can't give any ETA.


----------



## akira749

EK releases NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 water blocks


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> I've never compared it to 1070/1080.
> it's a 980ish class but as happened before(every time AMD releases a card really) it always turns to be weaker to what they state. Just saying gtx970 will still beat it when oced(and I'm pretty sure it will overclock much better than rx480) and you can get it for cheaper.
> Gtx970 is a great card for what it costs now, runs every game on ultra settings @1080p with no problems, I had 3 different 970s, all were ocing very well and never experienced any issue with "only" 3.5 Gb memory. That rx480 is a 6pin card, I would worry about that limitation much more than 3.5gb memory on 970.
> I'm not a Nvidia fanboy, I think the cards are way too dear and have issues too. But AMD simply cannot beat it performance-wise, they've always been behind and they will be.


Already been proven to compete with the gtx980 and tahts without the OC sorry to burst your bubble.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Already been proven to compete with the gtx980 and tahts without the OC sorry to burst your bubble.


yeah, one or two benchmarks. that's what AMD is good at.
some strong 970s beat 980 when oced.
Let's wait for more benchmarks and the hype will die as usual. sorry for OT


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> yeah, one or two benchmarks. that's what AMD is good at.
> some strong 970s beat 980 when oced.
> Let's wait for more benchmarks and the hype will die as usual. sorry for OT


Well i meant actual users who leaked benchmarks not AMD benchmarks. Boost clock is at 1266/1288 so can easily reach 1400 and then some. Again im going to wait but i dont see it being on par with the 970 especially with a new process.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's 108mm


Much appreciated!


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> What you bought is fine. You'll only need to buy a few things if you want to go back to 115x sockets.
> 
> EK-Supremacy EVO PreciseMount - Nickel
> EK-Supremacy EVO Insert I1 - Plexi
> EK-Supremacy EVO Backplate


oooooh thanks. I was trying to say that i'm actually keeping my current Supremacy EVO (currently setup for 1155) in it's box probably


----------



## Enapace

Maybe odd question but can't find an answer on your site or MSI is this new Seahawk EK X compatible with the SLI HB or not ?

Figured it might be as its a custom PCB is all. Looks a very nice card now I've seen proper specifications for it.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> I've never compared it to 1070/1080.
> it's a 980ish class but as happened before(every time AMD releases a card really) it always turns to be weaker to what they state. Just saying gtx970 will still beat it when oced(and I'm pretty sure it will overclock much better than rx480) and you can get it for cheaper.
> Gtx970 is a great card for what it costs now, runs every game on ultra settings @1080p with no problems, I had 3 different 970s, all were ocing very well and never experienced any issue with "only" 3.5 Gb memory. That rx480 is a 6pin card, I would worry about that limitation much more than 3.5gb memory on 970.
> I'm not a Nvidia fanboy, I think the cards are way too dear and have issues too. But AMD simply cannot beat it performance-wise, they've always been behind and they will be.


this is all nvidia fanboy text quoted here.

a 970 isnt worth buying. if you werent dumb enough to buy it right after the 3.5gb vram kill limit was found and warned about and talked about over and over and over and over, you sure wont waste your money over a year and a half later.
you do not know what a 480 will do because it isnt here yet, fact.
you think because a video card has a 6pin power connector its going to be a weak and inferior card. that alone screams fan...boy.
amd has not always been behind. get your facts straight before trying to not sound like a fanboy.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I can say I'm pleased with my 390x over my 970, and the 970 is a good card over-all. But of course a 390x is going to out perform a 970 lol


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> this is all nvidia fanboy text quoted here.
> 
> a 970 isnt worth buying. if you werent dumb enough to buy it right after the 3.5gb vram kill limit was found and warned about and talked about over and over and over and over, you sure wont waste your money over a year and a half later.
> you do not know what a 480 will do because it isnt here yet, fact.
> you think because a video card has a 6pin power connector its going to be a weak and inferior card. that alone screams fan...boy.
> amd has not always been behind. get your facts straight before trying to not sound like a fanboy.


970 is an old card now. You can buy second hand one for £150. It overclocks very well and is sufficient for 1080p @ max settings.
Amd is gonna release super duper newest technology, eco, turbo blah blah and it won't be faster than overclocked 970. it won't cost £150 either. All I'm saying is 970 most likely better deal for mid range gaming.
Amd has already made stronger cards than rx480 and second hand they are about the same price, I don't quite understand their politics. Unless their main focus is on saving the world and be super eco.
Let's wait for benchmarks and PRICES in UK, then we can be back with this discussion.


----------



## Touge180SX

Or you can continue this discussion in PM or a different thread because this has nothing to do with EK! Back on topic please!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Or you can continue this discussion in PM or a different thread because this has nothing to do with EK! Back on topic please!


Seems like someone has struck a nerve, yes?









TCO


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Seems like someone has struck a nerve, yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Haha, not really, been in the Navy for 15 years, takes a lot more than this to strike my nerves. Just a suggestion really.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Seems like someone has struck a nerve, yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, not really, been in the Navy for 15 years, takes a lot more than this to strike my nerves. Just a suggestion really.
Click to expand...

Pretty cushy duty station too.









I got stuck on the Eastern Seaboard for my enlistment.









~Ceadder


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty cushy duty station too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got stuck on the Eastern Seaboard for my enlistment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Haha, nothing cushy about 7th Fleet. Ships here average 250-280 days a year away from homeport.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Haha, nothing cushy about 7th Fleet. Ships here average 250-280 days a year away from homeport.


Ive got a friend of mine in the Navy in Japan as well. Pretty sure he never goes home haha.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty cushy duty station too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got stuck on the Eastern Seaboard for my enlistment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, nothing cushy about 7th Fleet. Ships here average 250-280 days a year away from homeport.
Click to expand...

I woulda given up my left *ahem* for Pacific fleet though. Better ports of call than Norfolk, VA. for damned sure. I saw signs on lawns that said "Dogs and Sailors keep off the grass".









Although I must say that during my Enlistment, we dry docked in Philadelphia and got as far into the Gulf of Mexico as Texas. But that's expected when you're stationed aboard a Battleship. I mustered out prior to PG 1.









~Ceadder


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Haha, not really, been in the Navy for 15 years, takes a lot more than this to strike my nerves. Just a suggestion really.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Or you can continue this discussion in PM or a different thread because this has nothing to do with EK! Back on topic please!


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*


Yea that escalated quickly huh lol.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Ive got a friend of mine in the Navy in Japan as well. Pretty sure he never goes home haha.


Haha, I guarantee he doesn't! You know where hes stationed?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I woulda given up my left *ahem* for Pacific fleet though. Better ports of call than Norfolk, VA. for damned sure. I saw signs on lawns that said "Dogs and Sailors keep off the grass".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although I must say that during my Enlistment, we dry docked in Philadelphia and got as far into the Gulf of Mexico as Texas. But that's expected when you're stationed aboard a Battleship. I mustered out prior to PG 1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah, I love the Pacific side for sure, couldn't stand Virginia. What BB were you on? I always wanted to be a 16" gun tech but gone before I joined. I'm a Fire Controlman, work on CIWS and MK160 5" fire control. Now I am at ATGWP doing the inspector job.

Ok, sorry everyone for not following my own suggestion, back on topic!!


----------



## wizardbro

I want some overkill cooling guys, hoping you can help me out. I want gpu and cpu temps below 50c at all times (under [email protected] load would be ideal) with a 25c ambient with quiet 1k rpm fans in push. Using a OC'd 4690k pulling ~150w and single OC'd 980ti pulling 300-350w. Will a EK PE 360 and a PE 240 suffice or should I go for x2 PE 360s?

I'm matx so x2 240 rads would be the most convenient and many cases accommodate that, but probably wouldn't be overkill cooling for my overclocks. x2 360 rads would be the hardest to pull off in a matx case and I would have to get a caselabs s5 pedestal or parvum r1.0 for that.

Buying the pe360 kit, + gpu block and extra rad separate would be the cheapest way to get a full loop going right?


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> I want some overkill cooling guys, hoping you can help me out. I want gpu and cpu temps below 50c at all times (under [email protected] load would be ideal) with a 25c ambient with quiet 1k rpm fans in push. Using a OC'd 4690k pulling ~150w and single OC'd 980ti pulling 300-350w. Will a EK PE 360 and a PE 240 suffice or should I go for x2 PE 360s?
> 
> I'm matx so x2 240 rads would be the most convenient and many cases accommodate that, but probably wouldn't be overkill cooling for my overclocks. x2 360 rads would be the hardest to pull off in a matx case and I would have to get a caselabs s5 pedestal or parvum r1.0 for that.


Funny you mention thIs I've just ordered a custom Parvum R1.0 [Amazing case in terms of design and functionally] and I'm going with 2xPE360 for 1080 SLI.

I think 2xPE240 would be enough for Overclocked CPU and Overclocked Single GPU.

Totally right there is few micro atx cases with a lot of rad space.


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Funny you mention thIs I've just ordered a custom Parvum R1.0 [Amazing case in terms of design and functionally] and I'm going with 2xPE360 for 1080 SLI.
> 
> I think 2xPE240 would be enough for Overclocked CPU and Overclocked Single GPU.
> 
> Totally right there is few micro atx cases with a lot of rad space.


The r1.0 is the dream case for me. I'm definitely going to pick one up when I'm in the UK for a few months. The dual chamber design, the horizontal rad mounting area is just perfect and keeps height down. Good luck with the case and the build.







.


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> The r1.0 is the dream case for me. I'm definitely going to pick one up when I'm in the UK for a few months. The dual chamber design, the horizontal rad mounting area is just perfect and keeps height down. Good luck with the case and the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thank you waiting for it to made hopefully not to much before I get it. Debating on getting two of the new MSI Seahawk EK X 1080s.

You do realise Parvum ship worldwide ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Ive got a friend of mine in the Navy in Japan as well. Pretty sure he never goes home haha.
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, I guarantee he doesn't! You know where hes stationed?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I woulda given up my left *ahem* for Pacific fleet though. Better ports of call than Norfolk, VA. for damned sure. I saw signs on lawns that said "Dogs and Sailors keep off the grass".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although I must say that during my Enlistment, we dry docked in Philadelphia and got as far into the Gulf of Mexico as Texas. But that's expected when you're stationed aboard a Battleship. I mustered out prior to PG 1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, I love the Pacific side for sure, couldn't stand Virginia. What BB were you on? I always wanted to be a 16" gun tech but gone before I joined. I'm a Fire Controlman, work on CIWS and MK160 5" fire control. Now I am at ATGWP doing the inspector job.
> 
> Ok, sorry everyone for not following my own suggestion, back on topic!!
Click to expand...

I was on the longest one. The USS Wisconsin BB64. We were approximately 50mi away from the Iowa when her turret popped. Some fool tried to tell me that the incident happened in Norfolk where she was ported. I tried to correct him, but you can't explain procedure to a fool. Both were undergoing Gun Quals. They don't load Shells and Powder in Port. I tried explaining that and basically got an argument that I simply let go before it got started. If dude wishes to be ignorant who the hades am I to educate him.









It happened in the same exact turret where my Berthing Station happened to be on my ship. That's a bit of an eye opener lemme tell ya.









~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Or you can continue this discussion in PM or a different thread because this has nothing to do with EK! Back on topic please!


oh look forum policeman who cant read him talking about ek block on a 970.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Or you can continue this discussion in PM or a different thread because this has nothing to do with EK! Back on topic please!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> oh look forum policeman who cant read him talking about ek block on a 970.
Click to expand...

I believe his motivation for suggesting taking it to PM, was simply to avoid an argument in the thread.

Considering that he an I were carrying on an off topic discussion of sorts, that's the only rationale I have for the statement. And I agree with it.









~Ceadder


----------



## AllGamer

Does anyone know which *Monoblock* or full motherboard block is compatible with a *micro ATX* motherboard for any Top brands (ASUS, Gigabyte, MSI, etc) ?

I'm trying to build a new Watercooled rig for my Wife, but keeping the existing case (Swarovski IN WIN Allure)

unfortunately that case only fits micro ATX motherboards, it has enough room to fit a slim kit, it's mainly to cool the GTX video card and CPU, which generates way too much heat for that case to be left on air.

She can't play for too long else the system will auto shutdown due the heat, if we leave the side door open, then the computer runs fine forever on air, but... well it sucks to leave it open, so I'm planning to run it on water to solve the over heating issue.

I set her gaming rig to runs at stock speeds, so even the Slim EK Kit should be enough.

Currently it's an old ASUS Rampage 2 Gene with an i7-920 and a hand me down GTX 690, from my recent upgrade









Planning to get her a new Motherboard that can use a Monoblock, to run a socket 1150 or 1151 i7 CPU block, plus the GTX 690 block (EK-FC690 GTX)

So, I'm flexible with motherboard brands and models as long as there is an existing Monoblock or full mobo block that can work on a micro ATX size motherboard.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Does anyone know which *Monoblock* or full motherboard block is compatible with a *micro ATX* motherboard for any Top brands (ASUS, Gigabyte, MSI, etc) ?
> 
> I'm trying to build a new Watercooled rig for my Wife, but keeping the existing case (Swarovski IN WIN Allure)
> 
> unfortunately that case only fits micro ATX motherboards, it has enough room to fit a slim kit, it's mainly to cool the GTX video card and CPU, which generates way too much heat for that case to be left on air.
> 
> She can't play for too long else the system will auto shutdown due the heat, if we leave the side door open, then the computer runs fine forever on air, but... well it sucks to leave it open, so I'm planning to run it on water to solve the over heating issue.
> 
> I set her gaming rig to runs at stock speeds, so even the Slim EK Kit should be enough.
> 
> Currently it's an old ASUS Rampage 2 Gene with an i7-920 and a hand me down GTX 690, from my recent upgrade
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Planning to get her a new Motherboard that can use a Monoblock, to run a socket 1150 or 1151 i7 CPU block, plus the GTX 690 block (EK-FC690 GTX)
> 
> So, I'm flexible with motherboard brands and models as long as there is an existing Monoblock or full mobo block that can work on a micro ATX size motherboard.


If it runs fine opening the door, water cooling is not going to help!! You have a air flow problem


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Does anyone know which *Monoblock* or full motherboard block is compatible with a *micro ATX* motherboard for any Top brands (ASUS, Gigabyte, MSI, etc) ?
> 
> I'm trying to build a new Watercooled rig for my Wife, but keeping the existing case (Swarovski IN WIN Allure)
> 
> unfortunately that case only fits micro ATX motherboards, it has enough room to fit a slim kit, it's mainly to cool the GTX video card and CPU, which generates way too much heat for that case to be left on air.
> 
> She can't play for too long else the system will auto shutdown due the heat, if we leave the side door open, then the computer runs fine forever on air, but... well it sucks to leave it open, so I'm planning to run it on water to solve the over heating issue.
> 
> I set her gaming rig to runs at stock speeds, so even the Slim EK Kit should be enough.
> 
> Currently it's an old ASUS Rampage 2 Gene with an i7-920 and a hand me down GTX 690, from my recent upgrade
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Planning to get her a new Motherboard that can use a Monoblock, to run a socket 1150 or 1151 i7 CPU block, plus the GTX 690 block (EK-FC690 GTX)
> 
> So, I'm flexible with motherboard brands and models as long as there is an existing Monoblock or full mobo block that can work on a micro ATX size motherboard.


EK has a monoblock for the Maximus VIII Gene, which is mATX and one for the Impact VIII which is mITX.

Gives you a kind of a choice . . .

smaller mobo may mean you can fit more rad,

or stay with micro ATX and go with the gene.

Darlene


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> EK has a monoblock for the Maximus VIII Gene, which is mATX and one for the Impact VIII which is mITX.
> 
> Gives you a kind of a choice . . .
> 
> smaller mobo may mean you can fit more rad,
> 
> or stay with micro ATX and go with the gene *and sli gtx 1080!*.
> 
> Darlene


Ftfy


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I believe his motivation for suggesting taking it to PM, was simply to avoid an argument in the thread.
> 
> Considering that he an I were carrying on an off topic discussion of sorts, that's the only rationale I have for the statement. And I agree with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


dont care what you believe. as he said, take your off topic to pm, as he said he should follow his own advice


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> EK has a monoblock for the Maximus VIII Gene, which is mATX and one for the Impact VIII which is mITX.
> 
> Gives you a kind of a choice . . .
> 
> smaller mobo may mean you can fit more rad,
> 
> or stay with micro ATX and go with the gene.
> 
> Darlene


Thank you!









The MAXIMUS VIII GENE fits the built just fine


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I believe his motivation for suggesting taking it to PM, was simply to avoid an argument in the thread.
> 
> Considering that he an I were carrying on an off topic discussion of sorts, that's the only rationale I have for the statement. And I agree with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dont care what you believe. as he said, take your off topic to pm, as he said he should follow his own advice
Click to expand...

Not arguing with you in the least. But the fact remains that our Experience discussion has zero chance of devolving into a flaming war. Whereas the Team Green Team Red discussion, generally if not always devolves into hurt feelings.









Most of us are adults here so honestly it should never get that far. And there is no need for hostility because someone suggests taking such conversations off thread. I do understand what you're saying but there was no need for the smackdown of sorts.









~Ceadder


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> If it runs fine opening the door, water cooling is not going to help!! You have a air flow problem


Yes and No

On my Lanboy Air case, with all the fans an extra ventilation, the GTX 690 managed to kill a HDD mount, as the heat coming out of it was so intense, it turned bride the soft elastic.
Even when the 120mm fan was in front of it, the air coming out from the GTX 690 fins was going in the opposite direction, so it had to be washed back to the rear of the case.



In the smaller case like the mid tower In Win Allure the heat builds up quickly in the front of the case, as the single front fan is not enough to push back all the heat generated by the GTX 690

by going Water, it can keep all the heat on the radiator / water flow, as the stock GTX fan & cover will be removed, then the air will move to only one direction, front to back

with the CPU also removing the fan, and having it on water, then that effectively removes all heat generating wind sources inside the case, letting the normal air flow from front to back do its job, and with the help of the radiator all head should be kept at the rear of the case, and heat outside of the case


----------



## Ceadderman

I doubt that I would *ever* employ such a shoddy mount for my HDDs. With or without the added heat coming out of a GPU.

Course I am no fan of Tt for many reasons. That just happens to have now been added to the list.









~Ceadder


----------



## Castaile

Hey guys

Want to ask your opinion on my temperatures

Currently cooling a 3770k and a 980ti classy with XE480(push) and XE240(pull). I'm using EK's revo D5 combo pump.

The 3770k is overclocked to 4.4ghz with 1.28 Vcore and the classy is @ 1502mhz with stock voltage.

Running P95 the cpu gets to 79 degrees at 30 mins, running unigine heaven the cpu reaches 53-57 degrees and the classy gets to 47 degrees max with Ultra settings, extreme tessellation and x4 AA.

I reckon the temps are kinda high? What do you guys think

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castaile*
> 
> Hey guys
> Want to ask your opinion on my temperatures
> Currently cooling a 3770k and a 980ti classy with XE480(push) and XE240(pull). I'm using EK's revo D5 combo pump.
> The 3770k is overclocked to 4.4ghz with 1.28 Vcore and the classy is @ 1502mhz with stock voltage.
> Running P95 the cpu gets to 79 degrees at 30 mins, running unigine heaven the cpu reaches 53-57 degrees and the classy gets to 47 degrees max with Ultra settings, extreme tessellation and x4 AA.
> I reckon the temps are kinda high? What do you guys think
> 
> Thanks in advance!


P95 is not good software for your CPU. Use Aida64 for max CPU temps. Seems only P95 is your issue which is expected.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> P95 is not good software for your CPU. Use Aida64 for max CPU temps. Seems only P95 is your issue which is expected.


P95 is fine, if you don't overheat with P95/LinX nothing will. I use v27.9

Just don't run the latest version, it adds unnecessary heat into you CPU.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castaile*
> 
> Hey guys
> Want to ask your opinion on my temperatures
> Currently cooling a 3770k and a 980ti classy with XE480(push) and XE240(pull). I'm using EK's revo D5 combo pump.
> The 3770k is overclocked to 4.4ghz with 1.28 Vcore and the classy is @ 1502mhz with stock voltage.
> Running P95 the cpu gets to 79 degrees at 30 mins, running unigine heaven the cpu reaches 53-57 degrees and the classy gets to 47 degrees max with Ultra settings, extreme tessellation and x4 AA.
> I reckon the temps are kinda high? What do you guys think
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Run your pc with hwinfo or afterburner running. Play some games, just some anti-virus/cinebench type software that pins your CPU then check your temps. P95 and all those prime stress tests are pure caca.

Run a cpu intensive game or intel utility stress test and those are far more realistic temps.


----------



## Castaile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> P95 is not good software for your CPU. Use Aida64 for max CPU temps. Seems only P95 is your issue which is expected.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> P95 is fine, if you don't overheat with P95/LinX nothing will. I use v27.9
> 
> Just don't run the latest version, it adds unnecessary heat into you CPU.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Run your pc with hwinfo or afterburner running. Play some games, just some anti-virus/cinebench type software that pins your CPU then check your temps. P95 and all those prime stress tests are pure caca.
> 
> Run a cpu intensive game or intel utility stress test and those are far more realistic temps.


Thanks guys.

I'm comparing the temps prior to setting up my loop when I stress tested my 3770k with H80i using P95, the max temp was 82 max 30 mins in, there's only with an improvement of 3 degrees? So I'm wondering if I'm missing something


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castaile*
> 
> Thanks guys.
> I'm comparing the temps prior to setting up my loop when I stress tested my 3770k with H80i using P95, the max temp was 82 max 30 mins in, there's only with an improvement of 3 degrees? So I'm wondering if I'm missing something


Its kinda high for having that much rad space but then again those 3770ks run hot in the first place don't they? My i5 4690k with a 360 and 240 gets to 46°C under load/stress test after a couple hours. Thats at 1.2v but at 1.3v im close to 56°C but im also running bare die. You could try a delid with liquid metal if you want even lower temps lol.

Honestly i wouldnt worry. Like we said run cinebench or so cpu intensive games or just let it run all day and see what you end up.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castaile*
> 
> Thanks guys.
> I'm comparing the temps prior to setting up my loop when I stress tested my 3770k with H80i using P95, the max temp was 82 max 30 mins in, there's only with an improvement of 3 degrees? So I'm wondering if I'm missing something


A delid will help a lot, (mileage varies on a case by case basis though)


----------



## akira749

MSI® unveils their new GeForce® GTX 1080 graphics card, SEA HAWK EK X


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> MSI® unveils their new GeForce® GTX 1080 graphics card, SEA HAWK EK X


Does it support the new SLI Bridges figured it might with it being a custom PCB


----------



## Iceman2733

Weird question do you guys make a Dual parallel 3-slot acrylic SLI link/bridge that both the ports are on the bottom?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-terminal-dual-parallel-3-slot-plexi.html

Something like this but with the inlet and outlet on the very bottom of the bridge instead of top and side of the bridge?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wizardbro

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-250 Does this res come with a mountking kit with two holders for 120mm fan slots? The picture makes it looks like there's a single dual res holder included, which isn't what I need.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Thank you waiting for it to made hopefully not to much before I get it. Debating on getting two of the new MSI Seahawk EK X 1080s.
> 
> You do realise Parvum ship worldwide ?


Yeah, thought I'd save a bit on shipping if I got it in the UK, but couldn't wait. Ordered one.


----------



## pc-illiterate

those are back to back res tube clamps, 2 clamps for 1 res


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Weird question do you guys make a Dual parallel 3-slot acrylic SLI link/bridge that both the ports are on the bottom?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-terminal-dual-parallel-3-slot-plexi.html
> 
> Something like this but with the inlet and outlet on the very bottom of the bridge instead of top and side of the bridge?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Kinda like this one, except it's a triple?



DIY is your best bet.

Darlene


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Does it support the new SLI Bridges figured it might with it being a custom PCB


There's a chance since the terminal is a bit more away from the SLI connectors. But I can't promise it to you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Weird question do you guys make a Dual parallel 3-slot acrylic SLI link/bridge that both the ports are on the bottom?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-terminal-dual-parallel-3-slot-plexi.html
> 
> Something like this but with the inlet and outlet on the very bottom of the bridge instead of top and side of the bridge?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sadly no sorry.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-250 Does this res come with a mountking kit with two holders for 120mm fan slots? The picture makes it looks like there's a single dual res holder included, which isn't what I need.
> Yeah, thought I'd save a bit on shipping if I got it in the UK, but couldn't wait. Ordered one.


It comes with a pair of holders. You can see how to install them in the step 2 of the instruction sheet.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109841020.pdf


----------



## akira749

We just add a short top version of the EK-FC1080 block









EK-FC1080 GTX - Nickel (short top)


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We just add a short top version of the EK-FC1080 block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK-FC1080 GTX - Nickel (short top)


I'm curious what the reason for a short top was?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We just add a short top version of the EK-FC1080 block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK-FC1080 GTX - Nickel (short top)


it this one compatible with Nvidia Hard Bridge for SLI ?


----------



## meson1

The answer is in the yellow section on EK's product page. Short answer is No.

Also the HB in Nvidia's HB SLI Bridge means "High Bandwidth" , doesn't it?


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> Also the HB in Nvidia's HB SLI Bridge means "High Bandwidth" , doesn't it?


Short answer is yes.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I'm curious what the reason for a short top was?


Greater compatibility with various GTX 1080 FE cards.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> it this one compatible with Nvidia Hard Bridge for SLI ?


No, the incompatibility is with the distance between the SLI connector and the Terminal bridge and not with the top itself.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well snagged another box of ZMT 10/16 tubing from work since there was a box on clearance for $10


----------



## WhiteWulfe

I swear half your cheque goes to the watercooling section at work


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> P95 is fine, if you don't overheat with P95/LinX nothing will. I use v27.9
> 
> Just don't run the latest version, it adds unnecessary heat into you CPU.


Wait I know you..

And I read there were some problems with high voltage and Prime95? Or maybe they fixed that?


----------



## Nichismo

Imo Prime95 is terrible and outdated for stability testing.... way too overzealous.

completely inconsistent too towards demands it places on your hardware in regards to like programs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Wait I know you..
> 
> And I read there were some problems with high voltage and Prime95? Or maybe they fixed that?


lol theres nothing to "fix" as it was never a bug/glitch or flaw, its simply the problem with the entire program in itself.

it reminds me of how you can go with these "auto" overclock profiles that motherboard manufacturers implement into their BIOS's as a selling point. Its cool as an idea, but in reality you realize that at the end of the day, all they can do is give you an overclock, along with an absurd amount of voltage so that they can ensure your system wont crash at any point. Nevermind all the apparent flaws with such a thing


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well snagged another box of ZMT 10/16 tubing from work since there was a box on clearance for $10


Its not that expensive to begin with lol, i love the stuff and the fact a simple scissor will you give such nice clean straight cuts too. A 3m box here is 13€ for 10/16.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well snagged another box of ZMT 10/16 tubing from work since there was a box on clearance for $10


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I swear half your cheque goes to the watercooling section at work


Local gossip has it that . . .

He owed them money last check, lol . . . .









D.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well snagged another box of ZMT 10/16 tubing from work since there was a box on clearance for $10


ZMT is heavenly to work with! Had some laying around for over a year and tried it 2 weeks ago on my test bench.
Easiest tubing I've ever done!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Wait I know you..
> 
> And I read there were some problems with high voltage and Prime95? Or maybe they fixed that?


Tweakers.net most probably!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Imo Prime95 is terrible and outdated for stability testing.... way too overzealous.
> 
> completely inconsistent too towards demands it places on your hardware in regards to like programs.
> lol theres nothing to "fix" as it was never a bug/glitch or flaw, its simply the problem with the entire program in itself.
> 
> it reminds me of how you can go with these "auto" overclock profiles that motherboard manufacturers implement into their BIOS's as a selling point. Its cool as an idea, but in reality you realize that at the end of the day, all they can do is give you an overclock, along with an absurd amount of voltage so that they can ensure your system wont crash at any point. Nevermind all the apparent flaws with such a thing







Leaving that here(notice the difference in AVX and non AVX) but let's agree to disagree. I do not want to derail the threat, also I don't want to offend anyone!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol, yeah it's hard working at MC sometimes only reason why I snagged it on clearance was it ended up being less than my Employee Purchase price and like the acrylic tubing I have I thought I might as well stock up while I can. Good thing stock on the 1070/1080's has been very minimal.


----------



## AllGamer

Coolant liquid color transparency.

I've noticed from most pictures here the color mix included with the EK kit, seems to give this thick color feel.

Is there a way to make the color look more transparent?

say, I'll like to mix the Red to the coolant liquid and make it look like a glass of wine (translucent), instead of a glass of tomato juice (not transparent), that most picture looks like when they show red.


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Wait I know you..
> And I read there were some problems with high voltage and Prime95? Or maybe they fixed
> 
> 
> 
> Tweakers.net most probably!
Click to expand...

Yes I sold you a Gigabyte SOC Force XD


----------



## Elmy

EK Pro Duo Waterblock and backplate..... Straight Pron!!!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I'm curious what the reason for a short top was?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> it this one compatible with Nvidia Hard Bridge for SLI ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Coolant liquid color transparency.
> 
> I've noticed from most pictures here the color mix included with the EK kit, seems to give this thick color feel.
> 
> Is there a way to make the color look more transparent?
> 
> say, I'll like to mix the Red to the coolant liquid and make it look like a glass of wine (translucent), instead of a glass of tomato juice (not transparent), that most picture looks like when they show red.


By thick coolant you're probably referring to the Pastel line.

But you can also buy non-Pastel coolant that will give you the effect you're talking about.

To simply answer your question, no you can't make Pastel coolant translucent.

Here's an example using Red :

Pastel Red (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ekoolant-pastel-red-concentrate-250ml)



non-Pastel Red (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ekoolant-evo-blood-red-concentrate-100ml)


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> By thick coolant you're probably referring to the Pastel line.
> 
> But you can also buy non-Pastel coolant that will give you the effect you're talking about.
> 
> non-Pastel Red (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ekoolant-evo-blood-red-concentrate-100ml)


Thank you!

that's exactly what I was looking for.

OK, now I know which to order from your website


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Coolant liquid color transparency.
> 
> I've noticed from most pictures here the color mix included with the EK kit, seems to give this thick color feel.
> 
> Is there a way to make the color look more transparent?
> 
> say, I'll like to mix the Red to the coolant liquid and make it look like a glass of wine (translucent), instead of a glass of tomato juice (not transparent), that most picture looks like when they show red.


I'm pretty sure the kits only come with the EVO clear or UV coolant which is transparent.


----------



## tistou77

Any idea on availability of waterblock for Rampage V Edition 10 ?

Thanks


----------



## fat4l

Hi guys









I'm doing my build in my new X71.
I'm placing my psu(superflower leadex with white leds) in the main section as if I put it in the bottom section there would be a big big space of "nothing" below gpu/gpus. It would feel kinda empty to me.
So havign said that, I'm placing 360 Ek 60mm thick rad(push pull) + EK 120 60mm thick rad(push pull) + dual EK DDC pumps in the bottom section.
I'm also using Mo-ra3 420(push pull 8x200mm fans), which is technically 3x420mm 60mm thick rads. This is an external rad.
There's no rads in the upper section, however I'm thinking about putting a 360mm slim 28mm thick rad in the top, with 3 fans-push.

I have 2 things to sort out.
I'm doing this build to be future proof(cooling-wise) so I wanna do it rly good-the best way.
What I'm cooling is, CPU, MB, max 2 graphics cards.

1. Will adding that thin 28mm thick, 360mm ek rad in the top, make a difference ?
2. How to route the tubing the best way ? I want it to be clean + efficient + I have external rad so I need to place pass-through fittings somewhere.
2a. I'm thinking:
res->pumps->360 rad->120 rad->cpu->mb->outside rad->back in->graphics->res
res->pumps->360 rad->120 rad->outside rad->back in->graphics->cpu->mb->res

Not sure if having all rads and then all components wil lmake a difference. or it's better to split it.... Also placing tubes is hard. I use normal flexi tubes, 19/13mm.

Thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Any idea on availability of waterblock for Rampage V Edition 10 ?
> 
> Thanks


No recent news sorry


----------



## tistou77

Ok thanks


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Speaking of 480, can anyone from EK confirm plans for a block for it?
> 
> The 480 looks really really inticing. Even if it's not a 1080 I think AMD has positioned it very attractively at that price for the performance it seems to have.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes we should have blocks for the 480
Click to expand...

RX 480 launch date is fast approaching. Will EK have reference blocks ready to go soon?


----------



## AllGamer

@akira749

Do you guys carry any EK metallic QDC like the ones from Koolance?

On you website the only QDC shown are the ones for the AIO Predator.

I'd be nice to have some EK QDC for our custom loops, it'll make changing parts a lot easier


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> RX 480 launch date is fast approaching. Will EK have reference blocks ready to go soon?


I will ask but I currently haven't heard anything about the block except that we will do one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> Do you guys carry any EK metallic QDC like the ones from Koolance?
> 
> On you website the only QDC shown are the ones for the AIO Predator.
> 
> I'd be nice to have some EK QDC for our custom loops, it'll make changing parts a lot easier


No we don't sorry.


----------



## DarthBaggins

EK needs to make some QDC's though, just sayin' lol


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> EK needs to make some QDC's though, just sayin' lol


I said this in the "You can help make a new EK product" thread a few weeks ago. My Koolance QD3's are excellent, but, when everything else in my loop is EK, I'd like to keep consistency.


----------



## Mega Man

If they do. Please don't do twisty ones. Do ones with barns that lock it in to place you pull the release which let's the bearings move away.

Those you can use on hardline the twisty ones you can't


----------



## akira749

EK releases ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 Strix Full-Cover water block


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 Strix Full-Cover water block


Pft shame AMD never sees this much love.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 Strix Full-Cover water block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pft shame AMD never sees this much love.
Click to expand...

IKR? They were touting the 1080 blocks way before release that they would be ready ON release day and we can't even get an ETA for RX 480 reference block 3 days from launch. I understand supply and demand, but I also understand fanboyism, just sayin.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> IKR? They were touting the 1080 blocks way before release that they would be ready ON release day and we can't even get an ETA for RX 480 reference block 3 days from launch. I understand supply and demand, but I also understand fanboyism, just sayin.


I can understand the market share so i don't blame em but i mean come on. It took like a year to get an MSI r9 390 waterblock (which has less customers then the sapphire r9 390) i got stuck using an alphacool block.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> IKR? They were touting the 1080 blocks way before release that they would be ready ON release day and we can't even get an ETA for RX 480 reference block 3 days from launch. I understand supply and demand, but I also understand fanboyism, just sayin.


Don't say things you don't know. Our own R&D Chief is an AMD lover....but we don't make blocks based on emotions but on sale possibility. AMD is sadly less popular than Nvidia when it comes to the watercooling universe.

But don't worry we will have a block for the RX480....i'm even trying to have an ETA for you guys.


----------



## RGSPro

The EVGA Backplates work great with the EK blocks! No extra screws required. Glad that the EVGA SLI Bridge works fine on these blocks as well, means that the EVGA HB Bridge should fit exactly the same. The EVGA SLI Bridge didn't fit out of the box on my XSPC 980 blocks, I had to modify it a little to get it to fit.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> IKR? They were touting the 1080 blocks way before release that they would be ready ON release day and we can't even get an ETA for RX 480 reference block 3 days from launch. I understand supply and demand, but I also understand fanboyism, just sayin.


I can understand the market share so i don't blame em but i mean come on. It took like a year to get an MSI r9 390 waterblock (which has less customers then the sapphire r9 390) i got stuck usin
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Don't say things you don't know. Our own R&D Chief is an AMD lover....but we don't make blocks based on emotions but on sale possibility. AMD is sadly less popular than Nvidia when it comes to the watercooling universe.
> 
> But don't worry we will have a block for the RX480....i'm even trying to have an ETA for you guys.


Yea exactly as i stated, AMD is such a tiny market hopefully it changes with the polaris and vega. I cant wait to see how small the block will be for the rx 480. i might change over just to get rid of the alphacool block and go ekwb


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> IKR? They were touting the 1080 blocks way before release that they would be ready ON release day and we can't even get an ETA for RX 480 reference block 3 days from launch. I understand supply and demand, but I also understand fanboyism, just sayin.


Its all business. Higher end cards, users typically have more cash to spend and have to deal with higher temps too, so it makes sense to market to them as their need is higher. Why would you pay 50% of your gpu cost to make it slightly cooler? Where as a high-end gpu, one only has to spend 10-20% for a block to vastly improve temps.

This has been true since i bought my first full-cover block in 2010 (4870x2 and 4870 blocks)

If you want a block and still have a limited budget around the RX480, get a 980 or 390X that has a block. You don't really need 8GB, especially for the market and resolution the RX480 is targeted too.

Don't forget, there's the universal gpu option, such as the thermosphere.


----------



## Enapace

I just noticed the new Asus Strix 1080 Waterblock is compatible with the new HB SLI Bridges definitely something to consider.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 Strix Full-Cover water block












Anybody here or any of the EK reps have experience shipping straight from EKWB to Japan? I am active duty military stationed in Japan and shipping straight from EK to my is cheaper and faster than PPC`s and Priority mail. I am wondering if anyone knows if there will be duty and customs fees imposed when it gets here? Thanks!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well hope to grab a RX480 around launch for the Folders in the Sky build


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Do ones with *barns*...


You meant barbs am sure but your phone got you. Cause I can't see barns being included on fittings. Simply too large.









~Ceadder


----------



## AllGamer

@akira749

Do you know anything about the MSI with factory EK custom blocks on them?
We saw a few sites posting pictures about it.

But it's not on sale anywhere yet.

Just pondering if you guys might know any internal release date









Would EK website also carry those?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> Do you know anything about the MSI with factory EK custom blocks on them?
> We saw a few sites posting pictures about it.
> 
> But it's not on sale anywhere yet.
> 
> Just pondering if you guys might know any internal release date
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would EK website also carry those?


From the EK MSI Seahawk thread: ^_^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Like the EVGA HydroCopper of the 900 series of Nvidia cards, it was sold by EVGA and their resellers, the MSI will be the same. It won't be sold by us. So it's not that I can't disclose the prices it's the fact that I don't and won't know it until it's out and I see it in the retail shops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for our own EK-FC1080 GTX TF6 availability, it should be available soon too but I don't have any exact dates.


----------



## wizardbro

Is it possible to use EK Monarch adapter modules alone as your ram heatsink? I don't want to wc my ram and these lovely heatsinks will fix my ram heatsink color problem.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Is it possible to use EK Monarch adapter modules alone as your ram heatsink? I don't want to wc my ram and these lovely heatsinks will fix my ram heatsink color problem.


Yes! I did it on my old G.Skill Ripjaws X 2133. Worked out great and they looked very sexy. Would have carried them over to my new build, but I love how the TridentZ heatspreaders look.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Do ones with *barns*...


You meant barbs am sure but your phone got you. Cause I can't see barns being included on fittings. Simply too large.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Is it possible to use EK Monarch adapter modules alone as your ram heatsink? *I don't want to wc my ram* and these lovely heatsinks will fix my ram heatsink color problem.


Why in Hades would you not want to after changing out the heatspreaders?











I would hope someone would do this to me for not wanting to complete the job...



Gonna sincerely miss Dinozzo.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

@bluej511, @Radnad, @DarthBaggins and all the AMD lovers, you could expect the RX480 block somewhere in July.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> @bluej511, @Radnad, @DarthBaggins and all the AMD lovers, you could expect the RX480 block somewhere in July.


Dear God!!!!!!!!!! All the way in July!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nah im jk lol, i can order from EKWB its actually like an 8hr drive from me but for some reason DPD shipping goes to Germany then to France instead of across italy go figure. Adds an extra 2-3 days of shipping. I got my naked ivy screws direct from them .


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> @bluej511, @Radnad, @DarthBaggins and all the AMD lovers, you could expect the RX480 block somewhere in July.


Awesome! Thank you!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Awesome, just need one for my 390x for now then lol


----------



## pdasterly

where can i get plastic washers for fury block, page 2 section 3
for screw size M2.5x4

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109830802.pdf


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> where can i get plastic washers for fury block, page 2 section 3
> for screw size M2.5x4
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109830802.pdf


from EK website?
if you live in UK I can send you some as I've got quite a collection of screws and washers from like 6 blocks


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> from EK website?
> if you live in UK I can send you some as I've got quite a collection of screws and washers from like 6 blocks


link, i cant find
no across pond from you.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> link, i cant find
> no across pond from you.


PMd you


----------



## Thoth420

So I have a choice between giving a second ASUS Deluxe Z170 or cheaper Z170 board a shot or stepping completely back from water cooling as my cpu, mobo and all of cooling parts were done and aquired by and done by a vendor. I would have to pay extra for a different board if it costs more and I hit my limit. Finding a Z170 board that matches my primarily white theme that is inside my budget has proven difficult. I see lots of issues on this chipset across all vendors and cannot decide on a board (300US or under) as they all seem flawed in some regard.


----------



## pdasterly

here


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> here


Would love to replace my EK blocked CIVF with that EK blocked RAVE. But the price is a bit too high for my taste.









~Ceadder


----------



## outofmyheadyo

So I have EK-XRES 140 D5 Vario (incl. pump), it works perfectly, and nothing is wrong with it other than being a little too bulky for my tiny case, is there something I can do with it to make it smaller ? I understand I need a new pump top, but I am not too sure wich ones are compatible with my pump and res ?

What I mean is something like this, the pump top I have is huge, this one is nice and tiny, looked around on EKWB site didn`t see anything or maybe I didnt`t know what to look for.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> So I have EK-XRES 140 D5 Vario (incl. pump), it works perfectly, and nothing is wrong with it other than being a little too bulky for my tiny case, is there something I can do with it to make it smaller ? I understand I need a new pump top, but I am not too sure wich ones are compatible with my pump and res ?
> 
> What I mean is something like this, the pump top I have is huge, this one is nice and tiny, looked around on EKWB site didn`t see anything or maybe I didnt`t know what to look for.


How about this?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-revo-d5-acetal


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I thought maybe theres something little and inexpensive I could buy and still use my old res, but I quess they dont sell those middlepieces without the reservoirs, what are they called pump tops ?


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yes! I did it on my old G.Skill Ripjaws X 2133. Worked out great and they looked very sexy. Would have carried them over to my new build, but I love how the TridentZ heatspreaders look.


This is awesome, thanks.
I tried to remove the heatsinks off my ram to see how it works. Pretty sure I was about the rip off a memory chip. It's being held down strong as hell.
Did you use a heatgun or something to loosen whatever glue they've got on the chips?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I thought maybe theres something little and inexpensive I could buy and still use my old res, but I quess they dont sell those middlepieces without the reservoirs, what are they called pump tops ?


Afaik EK doesn't sell just a pump top that will integrate with a res, it is either that pump top/res combo I linked or you can get a stand alone pump top like this but then you would need a standalone res also.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> This is awesome, thanks.
> I tried to remove the heatsinks off my ram to see how it works. Pretty sure I was about the rip off a memory chip. It's being held down strong as hell.
> Did you use a heatgun or something to loosen whatever glue they've got on the chips?


Use a heat gun to get them hot to the touch and then the spreaders comes right off


----------



## testplsignore

Has anyone else have issues with their 250 res X3 sliding on the mounts?

Not sure if I should keep tightening the clamps, or can anyone suggest something to put in the clamps to help them grip the res better?


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *testplsignore*
> 
> Has anyone else have issues with their 250 res X3 sliding on the mounts?
> 
> Not sure if I should keep tightening the clamps, or can anyone suggest something to put in the clamps to help them grip the res better?


You could try some rubber pads like these:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Rubber-75-Inch-16-Inch/dp/B001QCXXWS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466953686&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+rubber+pads

Or get one of these awesome res mounts if your res is 60mm diameter:

https://www.singularitycomputers.com/shop/watercooling/reservoir-mounts/ethereal-single-dual-pack


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> This is awesome, thanks.
> I tried to remove the heatsinks off my ram to see how it works. Pretty sure I was about the rip off a memory chip. It's being held down strong as hell.
> Did you use a heatgun or something to loosen whatever glue they've got on the chips?


Yes you absolutely NEED to use a heatgun to get the heatsinks off. Get them nice and hot and where gloves. People have pulled the memory chips off before so just be careful.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-d5-vario-incl-pump

has 3 xG1/4 threaded ports, using one for inlet, one for outlet, and the lastone for drainport is okay ? Have to use the side with 2 ports for inlet and outlet because that`s the only way this will fit my system, just want to make sure.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-d5-vario-incl-pump
> 
> has 3 xG1/4 threaded ports, using one for inlet, one for outlet, and the lastone for drainport is okay ? Have to use the side with 2 ports for inlet and outlet because that`s the only way this will fit my system, just want to make sure.


Yes you're right.

Also, to answer your question before, we don't sell our REVO XRES without the tube res. You "cheapest" solution to switch your current pump/res combo to the new REVO would be to buy this : EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 - Acetal and switch your current tube res onto this new one.


----------



## akira749

EK releases GIGABYTE GTX 1080 G1 Full-Cover water block


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> This is awesome, thanks.
> I tried to remove the heatsinks off my ram to see how it works. Pretty sure I was about the rip off a memory chip. It's being held down strong as hell.
> Did you use a heatgun or something to loosen whatever glue they've got on the chips?
> 
> 
> 
> Use a heat gun to get them hot to the touch and then the spreaders comes right off
Click to expand...

You could always run your system with the sticks in place. The heat should weaken the TIM if you're quick enough getting them out. At least my GSkill Snipers could do that. The TIM is pretty solid when they're cold but after a gaming session they loosened up pretty good.









~Ceadder


----------



## wizardbro

Might be a stupid question, but can you twist the housing on the xtop revo or mount it on the holder so the outlet is pointing to the right (90 degrees) instead of the top?
The holder has to remain in the same orientation as in the picture.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You could always run your system with the sticks in place. The heat should weaken the TIM if you're quick enough getting them out. At least my GSkill Snipers could do that. The TIM is pretty solid when they're cold but after a gaming session they loosened up pretty good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Could try that when I'm feeling adventurous. Saves having to go the store to buy a heatgun.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Might be a stupid question, but can you twist the housing on the xtop revo or mount it on the holder so the outlet is pointing to the right (90 degrees) instead of the top?
> The holder has to remain in the same orientation as in the picture.


Yep! The pump+top "floats" in the rubber lined holder. You can twist it 360 degrees.


----------



## ninjacoder

Does anyone know if ASUS voids warranty for using EK waterblocks on their graphic cards?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yes they do on their GPU's but not their Mobos


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yes they do on their GPU's but not their Mobos


Awesome! So no worries breaking the sticker on my Strix 1080 when I mount the EK block to it?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yes they do on their GPU's but not their Mobos
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! So no worries breaking the sticker on my Strix 1080 when I mount the EK block to it?
Click to expand...

He said they DO void the warranty. Pretty sure any GPU manufacturer will not honor a warranty if they see an aftermarket cooling solution was installed. Mobos don't come with a factory cooling solution for the CPU so it makes sense they don't void those.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> He said they DO void the warranty. Pretty sure any GPU manufacturer will not honor a warranty if they see an aftermarket cooling solution was installed. Mobos don't come with a factory cooling solution for the CPU so it makes sense they don't void those.


EVGA will honor their warranty as long as you reinstall the stock cooling solution when you RMA it







I'm sure I can find it documented but its fairly common knowledge that they're one of the only ones that support watercooling with their warranty


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> He said they DO void the warranty. Pretty sure any GPU manufacturer will not honor a warranty if they see an aftermarket cooling solution was installed. Mobos don't come with a factory cooling solution for the CPU so it makes sense they don't void those.
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA will honor their warranty as long as you reinstall the stock cooling solution when you RMA it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure I can find it documented but its fairly common knowledge that they're one of the only ones that support watercooling with their warranty
Click to expand...

I did not know that, thanks. +rep


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> He said they DO void the warranty. Pretty sure any GPU manufacturer will not honor a warranty if they see an aftermarket cooling solution was installed. Mobos don't come with a factory cooling solution for the CPU so it makes sense they don't void those.


I know EVGA honors their warranty (as mentioned) and I think MSI does as well, and by Mobo I meant the board itself not just the socket (the RVE still holds it's warranty as long as the stock heatsinks are still re-installed upon RMA)


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I did not know that, thanks. +rep


mmmmmm, I love rep!







Now I need to document it! http://www.evga.com/support/faq/afmviewfaq.aspx?faqid=57720
edit: guess they aren't the only one


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yes they do on their GPU's but not their Mobos


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yes they do on their GPU's but not their Mobos
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! So no worries breaking the sticker on my Strix 1080 when I mount the EK block to it?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yes they do on their GPU's but not their Mobos
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! So no worries breaking the sticker on my Strix 1080 when I mount the EK block to it?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> He said they DO void the warranty. Pretty sure any GPU manufacturer will not honor a warranty if they see an aftermarket cooling solution was installed. Mobos don't come with a factory cooling solution for the CPU so it makes sense they don't void those.
Click to expand...

I received clarification from Asus that in the case of an RMA, as long as the GPU received is not physically damaged (anywhere!) and comes with the original stock cooler, then you will be safe. Piercing that small sticker on one of the stock screws does not void the warranty.


----------



## RebelHell

XFX is another one. They may even install your aftermarket cooling solution for you if you mail it to them.

From their Warranty page:
** XFX has carefully selected the optimal thermal or fansink component for your graphics card model. We do not encourage the removal of components due to damage that may result in the process. XFX understands that some enthusiasts may choose to replace the original component with their own cooling solution. To support the gaming community, we recommend that you contact XFX prior to any modifications so that we can update your profile and product registration to avoid potential issues with warranty support. In addition, XFX support will be able to walk through the installation with you or provide feedback and pointers on available options for your specific product. You may even consider shipping your components to XFX and allow the technicians at XFX to perform the modification for you (shipping charges to XFX apply).


----------



## ninjacoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know EVGA honors their warranty (as mentioned) and I think MSI does as well, and by Mobo I meant the board itself not just the socket (the RVE still holds it's warranty as long as the stock heatsinks are still re-installed upon RMA)


Thanks for the reply! I have a Strix on the way, seems like I'll just refuse the package so it'll be sent back and grab an EVGA card instead. Bummer that not all the companies have the same policy...


----------



## Radnad

That's such a fine line though and it's too easy for a manufacturer to say something like even removing the stock thermal pads is considered physical damage, but I've never had to RMA a GPU under that situation so maybe I'm just being too cynical.

I think this is why the Hydrocopper and Seahawk are, and should be, the future. Water cooling is too mainstream now and we should definitely have factory watercooling options to put all that doubt behind us.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I received clarification from Asus that in the case of an RMA, as long as the GPU received is not physically damaged (anywhere!) and comes with the original stock cooler, then you will be safe. Piercing that small sticker on one of the stock screws does not void the warranty.


Awesome thanks Derick!!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Might be a stupid question, but can you twist the housing on the xtop revo or mount it on the holder so the outlet is pointing to the right (90 degrees) instead of the top?
> The holder has to remain in the same orientation as in the picture.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could try that when I'm feeling adventurous. Saves having to go the store to buy a heatgun.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yep! The pump+top "floats" in the rubber lined holder. You can twist it 360 degrees.


Like Derick told you yes you can. That's what I did in my last build.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ooooh so purty Akira.









~Ceadder


----------



## ninjacoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I received clarification from Asus that in the case of an RMA, as long as the GPU received is not physically damaged (anywhere!) and comes with the original stock cooler, then you will be safe. Piercing that small sticker on one of the stock screws does not void the warranty.


Thank you derick for the clarification. I guess I'll hold on to my Strix then if that's the case.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ninjacoder*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I received clarification from Asus that in the case of an RMA, as long as the GPU received is not physically damaged (anywhere!) and comes with the original stock cooler, then you will be safe. Piercing that small sticker on one of the stock screws does not void the warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you derick for the clarification. I guess I'll hold on to my Strix then if that's the case.
Click to expand...

That note goes for *MOST* major brands. If you swap to a water block, then just keep all the parts you lose in the process in the box. I've got both shrouds from my Crossfire setup and all the screws are returned to their proper location on them and even the spring brackets are in a ziploc in the box.









Sapphire rep is quoted in a CPU Mag article as saying that as long as all the parts are returned in one piece they will RMA their GPUs as well as most manufacturers. They understand that people like to watercool their components.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Hmm guess things changed since I got my 970 Strix. That's good to hear/see


----------



## Kylar182

Did a Rig update, she's purty


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kylar182*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did a Rig update, she's purty


Damn, that is one deep case. Also, how did you get the white fluid to "glow" like that (especially the left vertical run). Just lighting?


----------



## bkal117

Hey EK club, new to WC here, just bought a L120 kit w/ a 240 rad and set it up this weekend. Wanted to get my GPU in the loop, but don't want to pay $140+shipping for the MSI R9 390 full block. Anyone have good experience with the EK-Thermosphere? I have a local Microcenter and can grab it for around $78 with the few fittings I need to get it in my loop.

Good, bad or ugly? Thanks, hard to find reviews about it anywhere, I know AMD's 3xx get hot... I do know that I have to passive cool the VRM and RAM with a heatsink/fan.


----------



## Kylar182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Damn, that is one deep case. Also, how did you get the white fluid to "glow" like that (especially the left vertical run). Just lighting?


Correct, just placement. Using 6 strips. As far as the case depth goes, it's a custom built one. Have 4 rads and 2 PSU's. Tends to weight it down. Think it's around 150lbs.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkal117*
> 
> Hey EK club, new to WC here, just bought a L120 kit w/ a 240 rad and set it up this weekend. Wanted to get my GPU in the loop, but don't want to pay $140+shipping for the MSI R9 390 full block. Anyone have good experience with the EK-Thermosphere? I have a local Microcenter and can grab it for around $78 with the few fittings I need to get it in my loop.
> 
> Good, bad or ugly? Thanks, hard to find reviews about it anywhere, I know AMD's 3xx get hot... I do know that I have to passive cool the VRM and RAM with a heatsink/fan.


The MSI 390 has a bigger PCB than a normal 390 and the Thermosphere can fit but not without it's own issues. The main issue is that you won't be able to connect your card the "normal" way which means from the top like in this example because the top ports are blocked by the height of the PCB.



A customer on another forum had to do this to connect it's Thermosphere's on it's MSI 390.


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys. I'm setting up a loop and I'm looking to see if it should all work as I plan.

First things first, I'm going to be using a Phanteks Evolv ATX TG. I'll have two 360mm radiators, the EK SE 240's, with an EK Supremacy Evo, two GTX 980 FC blocks (in parallel), a reservoir , and pump obviously. I was also considering some QDC's on either side of the GPU's, for quickly swapping them out in the future.

The loop flow would likely be something along the longs of reservoir -> pump -> QDC -> two GPU's in parallel with their FC bridge -> QDC -> 360mm radiator -> CPU -> 360mm radiator -> reservoir.

First, can my pump handle this configuration? I have an EK-DDC 3.2 PWM pump. I don't know if that would be too much resistance for the pump to operate safely. Secondly, If that's too restrictive, would I still be able to use the DDC pump if I didn't use the QDC's? The QDC's are Koolance's QD3 series.

Second, does temperature matter if I go GPU's -> radiator -> CPU -> radiator? Or will the temperatures be the same if I did something like GPU's -> CPU -> rad -> rad? If that order doesn't matter too much for temperatures, I'll just do whatever has the cleanest routing.

Third, I'm looking to double check my FC bridge is the proper one for my configuration. My motherboards supports PCIe 3.0 x16/x16, but it's a very specific slot order. It's something like...

PCIe 3.0 X16 *(GPU 1)*

(Empty)

PCIe 3.0 x8 (Empty)

PCIe 2.0(or 3.0?) x4 Empty

PCIe 3.0 x16 *(GPU2)*

So, if I'm correct, since my two GPU's are five PCI slots apart, I'd need this EK FC Bridge, and I'd also need to use this cover piece on the second parallel outlet of the bridge. Correct?

And I think that's it for now. Other than a possible DDC/reservoir combination and mounting that in the case, but that's a later option.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm setting up a loop and I'm looking to see if it should all work as I plan.
> 
> First things first, I'm going to be using a Phanteks Evolv ATX TG. I'll have two 360mm radiators, the EK SE 240's, with an EK Supremacy Evo, two GTX 980 FC blocks (in parallel), a reservoir , and pump obviously. I was also considering some QDC's on either side of the GPU's, for quickly swapping them out in the future.
> 
> The loop flow would likely be something along the longs of reservoir -> pump -> QDC -> two GPU's in parallel with their FC bridge -> QDC -> 360mm radiator -> CPU -> 360mm radiator -> reservoir.
> 
> First, can my pump handle this configuration? I have an EK-DDC 3.2 PWM pump. I don't know if that would be too much resistance for the pump to operate safely. Secondly, If that's too restrictive, would I still be able to use the DDC pump if I didn't use the QDC's? The QDC's are Koolance's QD3 series.
> 
> Second, does temperature matter if I go GPU's -> radiator -> CPU -> radiator? Or will the temperatures be the same if I did something like GPU's -> CPU -> rad -> rad? If that order doesn't matter too much for temperatures, I'll just do whatever has the cleanest routing.
> 
> Third, I'm looking to double check my FC bridge is the proper one for my configuration. My motherboards supports PCIe 3.0 x16/x16, but it's a very specific slot order. It's something like...
> 
> PCIe 3.0 X16 *(GPU 1)*
> 
> (Empty)
> 
> PCIe 3.0 x8 (Empty)
> 
> PCIe 2.0(or 3.0?) x4 Empty
> 
> PCIe 3.0 x16 *(GPU2)*
> 
> So, if I'm correct, since my two GPU's are five PCI slots apart, I'd need this EK FC Bridge, and I'd also need to use this cover piece on the second parallel outlet of the bridge. Correct?
> 
> And I think that's it for now. Other than a possible DDC/reservoir combination and mounting that in the case, but that's a later option.


I'd do some research, but it's going to be very hard to fit two 360mm's in that case without modding. Do you plan on doing one 360mm on the front and one on top? If so, I believe they will collide with each other. I've researched the same thing before. That's why I ended up getting the Primo. Unless they changed something in the tempered glass version. 360mm and 240mm would be fine though.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I'd do some research, but it's going to be very hard to fit two 360mm's in that case without modding. Do you plan on doing one 360mm on the front and one on top? If so, I believe they will collide with each other. I've researched the same thing before. That's why I ended up getting the Primo. Unless they changed something in the tempered glass version. 360mm and 240mm would be fine though.


I won't be entirely disheartened if I settle on 360 and 240, simply because I need a 3.5" mount anyways, which I lose with two 360's.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm setting up a loop and I'm looking to see if it should all work as I plan.
> 
> First things first, I'm going to be using a Phanteks Evolv ATX TG. I'll have two 360mm radiators, the EK SE 240's, with an EK Supremacy Evo, two GTX 980 FC blocks (in parallel), a reservoir , and pump obviously. I was also considering some QDC's on either side of the GPU's, for quickly swapping them out in the future.
> 
> The loop flow would likely be something along the longs of reservoir -> pump -> QDC -> two GPU's in parallel with their FC bridge -> QDC -> 360mm radiator -> CPU -> 360mm radiator -> reservoir.
> 
> First, can my pump handle this configuration? I have an EK-DDC 3.2 PWM pump. I don't know if that would be too much resistance for the pump to operate safely. Secondly, If that's too restrictive, would I still be able to use the DDC pump if I didn't use the QDC's? The QDC's are Koolance's QD3 series.
> 
> Second, does temperature matter if I go GPU's -> radiator -> CPU -> radiator? Or will the temperatures be the same if I did something like GPU's -> CPU -> rad -> rad? If that order doesn't matter too much for temperatures, I'll just do whatever has the cleanest routing.
> 
> Third, I'm looking to double check my FC bridge is the proper one for my configuration. My motherboards supports PCIe 3.0 x16/x16, but it's a very specific slot order. It's something like...
> 
> PCIe 3.0 X16 *(GPU 1)*
> 
> (Empty)
> 
> PCIe 3.0 x8 (Empty)
> 
> PCIe 2.0(or 3.0?) x4 Empty
> 
> PCIe 3.0 x16 *(GPU2)*
> 
> So, if I'm correct, since my two GPU's are five PCI slots apart, I'd need this EK FC Bridge, and I'd also need to use this cover piece on the second parallel outlet of the bridge. Correct?
> 
> And I think that's it for now. Other than a possible DDC/reservoir combination and mounting that in the case, but that's a later option.


Your pump can handle this and for the bridge you're right. You need the Triple with a blank for the middle slot.


----------



## bkal117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The MSI 390 has a bigger PCB than a normal 390 and the Thermosphere can fit but not without it's own issues. The main issue is that you won't be able to connect your card the "normal" way which means from the top like in this example because the top ports are blocked by the height of the PCB.
> 
> 
> 
> A customer on another forum had to do this to connect it's Thermosphere's on it's MSI 390.


Akira, thanks for the info! The images are very helpful. For the top image do they just have a slim extender coming out of it? I would be more than happy to just add a few extenders out the top if that will work. Bottom would require a lot more tubing but would be fine. Thanks again!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkal117*
> 
> Akira, thanks for the info! The images are very helpful. For the top image do they just have a slim extender coming out of it? I would be more than happy to just add a few extenders out the top if that will work. Bottom would require a lot more tubing but would be fine. Thanks again!


Unfortunately no. The ports on top aren't usable. The PCB overhang on them.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Your pump can handle this and for the bridge you're right. You need the Triple with a blank for the middle slot.


Excellent, thank you!


----------



## bkal117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Unfortunately no. The ports on top aren't usable. The PCB overhang on them.


Ahhh I get it now read that wrong. Sorry. No worries. I have soft tubing,gonna play some tubing returns for 4th of July! Thanks again
Looks like I can leave some cooling on from the stock cooler as well


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkal117*
> 
> Ahhh I get it now read that wrong. Sorry. No worries. I have soft tubing,gonna play some tubing returns for 4th of July! Thanks again
> Looks like I can leave some cooling on from the stock cooler as well


No problems









About the fact of leaving some cooling from the stock cooler, just remember that you will need to butcher your stock cooler for this. The guy literaly cut it's stock cooler in half.


----------



## bkal117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the fact of leaving some cooling from the stock cooler, just remember that you will need to butcher your stock cooler for this. The guy literaly cut it's stock cooler in half.


Yeahhh it's was a clearance 390 anyways. The temps will be way worth it. Thanks again for the image! So much help. Rep!


----------



## rpjkw11

Hello again, guys! I have a question pertaining to the EK Predator 360 AIO. Can fans be mounted in a push/pull configuration? I have an Enthoo Primo and I will install the rad in the top. In that location, is there an advantage to a push/pull set-up or is that old school 2010? Between the Predator 360 and Swiftech H320X Prestige, I'm leaning strongly to the EKWB, though I've read fewer reviews. Push/pull has always intrigued me.

I've closely followed OCs cooling forums and have long been an airhead but WC-fence-sitter. I like the two I mentioned because I prefer 360mm over 240mm, and I want an AIO rather than a custom WC rig. Both AIOs will fit in my Enthoo Primo, especially since I removed the ODD cage so there's a straight through airflow front the front an top. Both companies have good reputations for workmanship quality and service. Since the EKWB is easily expandable, I may look at water cooling my soon to arrive (I hope) Asus STRIX GTX 1080.

Thank you in advance for help and patience.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> Hello again, guys! I have a question pertaining to the EK Predator 360 AIO. Can fans be mounted in a push/pull configuration? I have an Enthoo Primo and I will install the rad in the top. In that location, is there an advantage to a push/pull set-up or is that old school 2010? Between the Predator 360 and Swiftech H320X Prestige, I'm leaning strongly to the EKWB, though I've read fewer reviews. Push/pull has always intrigued me.
> 
> I've closely followed OCs cooling forums and have long been an airhead but WC-fence-sitter. I like the two I mentioned because I prefer 360mm over 240mm, and I want an AIO rather than a custom WC rig. Both AIOs will fit in my Enthoo Primo, especially since I removed the ODD cage so there's a straight through airflow front the front an top. Both companies have good reputations for workmanship quality and service. Since the EKWB is easily expandable, I may look at water cooling my soon to arrive (I hope) Asus STRIX GTX 1080.
> 
> Thank you in advance for help and patience.


You know... I too was an AIO guy just like you, but this year I finally took the plunge to go full Custom Water Cooling.

for pretty much the same reason CPU + VRM + two GTX 1080

the EK AIO will work fine to keep things running smoothly and quietly, but if you want to actually make things literally COOL (not WARM) then you'll need the real deal with EK custom cooling kits.

using just 1 EK AIO or any brand AIO will only keep the CPU and Video card WARM,
1 AIO is not Cool enough to keep the CPU & Video card Cool

perhaps if you split CPU in 1 AIO, and video card on a separate AIO, that might do it, but then do you have enough room in your case to fit 2x 240mm Radiator?
or perhaps a 360mm for the GTX 1080, and a 240mm for the CPU

Believe it or not GPU these days generate way more heat than the CPU,
heck for the CPU even a 120mm AIO is more than enough.

I'm picking up 2x 360mm radiator to go along an EK Extreme 360mm Starter Kit, I had to order a new case just for the cooling spaces, my existing case was not big enough to house all the cooling radiators.


----------



## akira749

EK releases MSI GeForce GTX 1080 TF6 Full-Cover water block


----------



## tistou77

Hello

is that the kit _EK-XTOP Revo D5_ is "quietest" than the kit _EK-XTOP D5_ ?
If D5 is quieter with this kit in fact

Thanks


----------



## kgtuning

anyone using a Gigabyte X99 ud5 wifi board with the EK board block? The screws that came with mine are super short. I used the small plastic washers on both sides of the motherboard and two of the screws do not thread. but i used a thinner washer to make it work. just wondering if anyone else had the same issue.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> anyone using a Gigabyte X99 ud5 wifi board with the EK board block? The screws that came with mine are super short. I used the small plastic washers on both sides of the motherboard and two of the screws do not thread. but i used a thinner washer to make it work. just wondering if anyone else had the same issue.


I do use one but I don't remember if I had an issue when I installed it.

Which block is giving you a hard time? The chipset one of the mosfet one?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I do use one but I don't remember if I had an issue when I installed it.
> 
> Which block is giving you a hard time? The chipset one of the mosfet one?


chipset. i pulled the block off after putting paste on and im getting good contact. just seemed kind of odd.


----------



## DarthBaggins

How long is the warranty on GPU blocks? And what would conditions be to cover a block where nickel plating had come off?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> chipset. i pulled the block off after putting paste on and im getting good contact. just seemed kind of odd.


Those the board had those small paper thin washer glued on the back of the board? If it had and they are still there, you could use those and ditch the washers.

Also, the washers you need to use for the chipset are a tad smaller than the others. Maybe you just used the M3 washers there instead of the M2.5 washers.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> How long is the warranty on GPU blocks? And what would conditions be to cover a block where nickel plating had come off?


Warranty is 2 years.

What happened with the plating? Do you have a picture?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Those the board had those small paper thin washer glued on the back of the board? If it had and they are still there, you could use those and ditch the washers.
> 
> Also, the washers you need to use for the chipset are a tad smaller than the others. Maybe you just used the M3 washers there instead of the M2.5 washers.


lol anything is possible. Maybe i tried to use the thicker washers.. I actually went the route of using the stock washers. thanks for confirming the use of the factory washers. Im sure ill pull it apart a few more times for grins and giggles.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks like copper is becoming exposed in the channels, this is a block I plan on purchasing 2nd hand for my 390x. Supposedly only distilled/biocide have been run through it. Personally I would prefer to get the acetal/copper version of this block


Oh and have the x99 Strix monoblocks been released to retailers yet as well since JAC is down for re-constructive plumbing/uupgrading.


----------



## slatanic

Leak testing my very first custom loop.
CPU Block
240mm Rad
D5 Pump



I think it doesnt look that bad for my first attempt.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slatanic*
> 
> Leak testing my very first custom loop.
> CPU Block
> 240mm Rad
> D5 Pump
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it doesnt look that bad for my first attempt.


That looks great. Pretty sure I couldn't bend tubing that good









TCO


----------



## akira749

EK-FC RX480 water block Tease


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK-FC RX480 water block Tease












I like it!!


----------



## Enapace

I just noticed the new Asus Strix 1080 Waterblock is compatible with the new HB SLI Bridges definetly something to consider
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK-FC RX480 water block Tease


Wow thats a very tiny card.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK-FC RX480 water block Tease


Any word on if a single slot adapter will be included, or available?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Nice lil block


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK-FC RX480 water block Tease


The irony is that, on top of the RX 480 being revealed to not be at 980 levels like promised and actually being barely at 970 levels (tried to tell people....but whatever) and the fact that information is coming out stating the the RX 480 doesn't even meat PCI-e standard specification requirements; is the fact that Waterblocks are honestly quite redundant for this card for the first time in a while actually. The main draw of the 480, and the reason AMD fanboys were screaming at the top of their lungs for the "impending death of Nvidia" was that Crossfire 480's were supposedly as fast as a GTX 1080 for only $400.

Now we hear that the 8GB model is actually $230 (for reference, custom variants will run you ~$260+ most likely); and that it's only as fast as a 970. Meaning that crossfire 480's is actually only as fast as a 1070 in most cases. So if you add to that disappointing price/perf ratio, $300 worth of waterblocks and backplates for two cards; you're looking at a total cost of ~$800 with shipping! For that cost you could pick up two reference non-founder 1070's (still only ~$750-770) and still be able to get backplates for both of the 1070's within roughly the same cost range of the 480's + water cooling. You'd be getting a HELL of a lot more performance from SLI 1070's too. And if you went with uniblocks for the 1070's your total cost would only raise to ~$850-875 or so. Alternatively you could get a single 1080 and block + plate too.

And if you just want to support AMD, you'd STILL probably be better off just getting a discounted or used R9 295x2 and EK Block really. (don't think they make blocks for that 390x2 Devil13 one do they? Too bad, i've seen that 390x2 for like ~$450-500 brand new recently and it'd be as fast as 480 crossfire pretty much out of the box.)


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> The irony is that, on top of the RX 480 being revealed to not be at 980 levels like promised and actually being barely at 970 levels (tried to tell people....but whatever) and the fact that information is coming out stating the the RX 480 doesn't even meat PCI-e standard specification requirements; is the fact that Waterblocks are honestly quite redundant for this card for the first time in a while actually. The main draw of the 480, and the reason AMD fanboys were screaming at the top of their lungs for the "impending death of Nvidia" was that Crossfire 480's were supposedly as fast as a GTX 1080 for only $400.
> 
> Now we hear that the 8GB model is actually $230 (for reference, custom variants will run you ~$260+ most likely); and that it's only as fast as a 970. Meaning that crossfire 480's is actually only as fast as a 1070 in most cases. So if you add to that disappointing price/perf ratio, $300 worth of waterblocks and backplates for two cards; you're looking at a total cost of ~$800 with shipping! For that cost you could pick up two reference non-founder 1070's (still only ~$750-770) and still be able to get backplates for both of the 1070's within roughly the same cost range of the 480's + water cooling. You'd be getting a HELL of a lot more performance from SLI 1070's too. And if you went with uniblocks for the 1070's your total cost would only raise to ~$850-875 or so. Alternatively you could get a single 1080 and block + plate too.
> 
> And if you just want to support AMD, you'd STILL probably be better off just getting a discounted or used R9 295x2 and EK Block really. (don't think they make blocks for that 390x2 Devil13 one do they? Too bad, i've seen that 390x2 for like ~$450-500 brand new recently and it'd be as fast as 480 crossfire pretty much out of the box.)


1. This is the EK club thread not the nvidia fanboy thread lol.

But the 8gb was never ever going to be 199$ and that was always evident in the first place. Clearly STARTING AT 199$ evades your grammar skills haha.

Why aren't you ranting about the fact that nvidia cards can't even be found and if they are they are ludicrously priced? Or the fact that they dont OC at all and nvidia promised twice the performance of the 980ti when in reality its barely a 25% boost.

The reason for the waterblock isn't because of heat but because of noise, people dont want 50db of fan noise from the blower. I have a dozen fans and dont even reach that level. And again this is not the thread to discuss amd vs ngreedia


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> 1. This is the EK club thread not the nvidia fanboy thread lol.
> 
> But the 8gb was never ever going to be 199$ and that was always evident in the first place. Clearly STARTING AT 199$ evades your grammar skills haha.
> 
> Why aren't you ranting about the fact that nvidia cards can't even be found and if they are they are ludicrously priced? Or the fact that they dont OC at all and nvidia promised twice the performance of the 980ti when in reality its barely a 25% boost.
> 
> The reason for the waterblock isn't because of heat but because of noise, people dont want 50db of fan noise from the blower. I have a dozen fans and dont even reach that level. And again this is not the thread to discuss amd vs ngreedia


That won't stop him, I don't know where he's spawned from. The guy is a machine.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Any word on if a single slot adapter will be included, or available?


I don't know for sure but usually if the possibility is there, we tend to include the single slot conversion bracket.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> That won't stop him, I don't know where he's spawned from. The guy is a machine.


When I was reading the initial post, I thought "This guy is still around here?" I then I read your response and It made me feel good.

TCO


----------



## AllGamer

@akira749

Hey I picked up 2 of the GTX 1080 MSI Sea Hawk with the EK X

Do you know if that card is compatible with nVidia's HB bridges?

or do I still need to wait for EK custom HB bridges?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> Hey I picked up 2 of the GTX 1080 MSI Sea Hawk with the EK X
> 
> Do you know if that card is compatible with nVidia's HB bridges?
> 
> or do I still need to wait for EK custom HB bridges?


Good question, i'm not sure about the one from Nvidia. From the look of it, it might but I can't guarantee it.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK-FC RX480 water block Tease
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any word on if a single slot adapter will be included, or available?
Click to expand...

That would certainly be slick, if it's doable with the 480.

Imo it's great that EK has made a primo block for the 480.
It would be a perfect card and block, to fit into a really small watercooled SFF type of build.
Such as the new Bullet cases from CaseLabs.


----------



## Rdoxey

That is one fine waterblock for the nano


----------



## MrMD

Hi,i got a EVGA FTW 980ti comin my way,and i have an EK thermosphere block to put on it (from my current GPU)

It looks like i may have to sacrifice the front face plate to fit it(not 100% sure),now this isnt a big deal,but i would like to keep using the back plate the card comes with.

I know this is possible using a EK-VGA Supremacy(as the front plate doesn't need removed)

If i have to remove the front plate do i have any options to retain the back plate while using the thermosphere i already own?

Heres a pic of the PCB the card has https://benchlife.info/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/evga-geforce-gtx-980-ti-sc_7-1024x576.jpg

Any help would be appreciated!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks like we got some new goodies at work:


----------



## bkal117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Looks like we got some new goodies at work:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That Microcenter WC section is the most stocked section I've ever seen...


----------



## DarthBaggins

And I had them move the fittings into a glass case so they would stay organized - I work at the Duluth, GA location


----------



## bkal117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> And I had them move the fittings into a glass case so they would stay organized - I work at the Duluth, GA location


You should move to Paterson NJ and take care of that dump, the fittings are in the old plastic CD security cases and it's ungodly trying to find what you want then it takes an hour to wait for someone to open one! Still love MC tho. No where else in the world gets me like they do.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Normally when customers come in all the other associates try to find me or call me on my day off since I'm the only one in the store that knows custom cooling. Should've seen it before I started working there


----------



## bkal117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Normally when customers come in all the other associates try to find me or call me on my day off since I'm the only one in the store that knows custom cooling. Should've seen it before I started working there


Oh I can imagine! Good job man! Way to pride in your work, thank you for caring more than most!


----------



## sect

hey guys, was just curious about something that's likely been asked but I'm not able to locate with the search.

does running a pair of pumps in serial allow you to run them slower (quieter) and maintain a good flow rate? further more, what's the added heat being put into the loop likely to be?
appreciate your reply


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Normally when customers come in all the other associates try to find me or call me on my day off since I'm the only one in the store that knows custom cooling. Should've seen it before I started working there


i wish i lived near a mc. I would absolutely love to do that for work. The only reason i dont help more people here is time. I despise being on call at work, but if it were watercooling on call... Sign me up!


----------



## Yungbenny911

Does anyone have an idea when the MSI Gaming X 10xx series WB (EK-FC1080 GTX TF6) would be available at Performance PCS?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Looks like we got some new goodies at work:


Very nice, i was shocked to see that in France we had a store that does nothing BUT watercooling and they are stocked beyond belief. i can get everything next day as well for cheap.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> Does anyone have an idea when the MSI Gaming X 10xx series WB (EK-FC1080 GTX TF6) would be available at Performance PCS?


My Strix block was in stock and shipped 4 days after the official release date. When I talked to PPC before that, they told me about 3 days after release they have them in stock. I actually ordered mine on Wednesday from them (got an email from them saying it was a preorder which was nice) and then it shipped Thursday.


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Hi,i got a EVGA FTW 980ti comin my way,and i have an EK thermosphere block to put on it (from my current GPU)
> 
> It looks like i may have to sacrifice the front face plate to fit it(not 100% sure),now this isnt a big deal,but i would like to keep using the back plate the card comes with.
> 
> I know this is possible using a EK-VGA Supremacy(as the front plate doesn't need removed)
> 
> If i have to remove the front plate do i have any options to retain the back plate while using the thermosphere i already own?
> 
> Heres a pic of the PCB the card has https://benchlife.info/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/evga-geforce-gtx-980-ti-sc_7-1024x576.jpg
> 
> Any help would be appreciated!


I have figured it out,i can mod the standard thermosphere G80 mounting plate to make it work!


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sect*
> 
> hey guys, was just curious about something that's likely been asked but I'm not able to locate with the search.
> 
> does running a pair of pumps in serial allow you to run them slower (quieter) and maintain a good flow rate? further more, what's the added heat being put into the loop likely to be?
> appreciate your reply


Good question.

I've been pondering similar questions:

Are there any benefit running pumps in *Series*?

Are there any benefit running pumps in *Parallel*?

I was planning to pick up 2 or 3 kits, and use all the parts together, and that'll give me plenty of spares








and I was thinking I could run 2 pumps in parallel to provide redundancy and load balancing, in case one of the pumps fails.


----------



## tiborrr12

Pumps in series - increased pressure head (beneficial in restrictive serial loops).
Pumps in parallel - increased flow rates (beneficial in massively parallelized loops).


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Can someone tell me what is the best insert + jetplate for the 6700k, xtremerigs review concluded that insert 1+jetplate 2 was the winner on a regular mount on 4770k is it same for skylake? Not sure if I want to open the block or not but knockin off a few degrees would be nice perhaps my 6700k can hit 5000 on water + clu.


----------



## VSG

You are not going to knock off a few degrees by simply changing the insert and jet plate. All that mostly does is change the bow of the cold plate and affect TIM spread, and so if you have a good TIM spread already don't worry about it.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

was what i was basing my assumptions on


----------



## VSG

His 4770k was a dog of a CPU to be fair, but I don't know if he had TIM spread issues as such. I didn't have much difference myself but if you end up doing this, please let me know. I am sure others would be interested as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You are not going to knock off a few degrees by simply changing the insert and jet plate. All that mostly does is change the bow of the cold plate and affect TIM spread, and so if you have a good TIM spread already don't worry about it.


Supreme HF jetplate recommendation for 1100T?









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Supreme HF jetplate recommendation for 1100T?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hopefully someone who has both can answer, I don't even have the original Supremacy


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Supreme HF jetplate recommendation for 1100T?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully someone who has both can answer, I don't even have the original Supremacy
Click to expand...

I have the blank and may drill through it a couple times to see if it makes a difference. I've got SP1 or SP2 in it now(think SP1 iirc) but I never really thought about it before the tear down. Now that I'm getting closer to getting everything back together, thought I would ask.









Thanks for your input VSG.









~Ceadder


----------



## TTheuns

Not sure wether this has heen askd before: Will there be 1080 HOF blocks this time around? I know you dropped HOF support on the 9xx series, but I'm hoping it's returning. The card is seriously cheap where I'm at so I'd like to take this over a Strix, which is almost €100 more. Just want an EK block to match.


----------



## Thoth420

Hey all is there a monoblock for the EVGA Z170 Classified K (the full ATX non 4 way SLI version)? Also anyone have any experience with EVGA motherboards? I have always had great GPUs and PSUs from them but never used one of their boards and have heard very polarizing mixed reviews. I don't OC my CPU to it's line just for performance when needed and my GPU pretty much the same and the Fury X doesn't really net much better results OC'd anyway so looking more for stability and ease of use. Also plan on just running 2133 RAM so it really doesn't have to be that super fancy with OC potential just like the look of it, has the I/O I need in the back and isn't made by ASUS.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Not sure wether this has heen askd before: Will there be 1080 HOF blocks this time around? I know you dropped HOF support on the 9xx series, but I'm hoping it's returning. The card is seriously cheap where I'm at so I'd like to take this over a Strix, which is almost €100 more. Just want an EK block to match.


No sorry.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Hey all is there a monoblock for the EVGA Z170 Classified K (the full ATX non 4 way SLI version)?


No sorry.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No sorry.
> No sorry.


Too bad, fell in love with the 7xx series white block for the HOF cards.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No sorry.
> No sorry.


No worries I will just stick with my Supremacy CPU block...it is smexy enough on it's own.


----------



## slatanic

Someone here with a watercooled GTX 1080?

Im considering to watercool my 1080 with a waterblock from EK. What are the temps/clock speed?
The heat dissipation isn't that great in my obsidian 250 d case (gpu only).


----------



## Vindicare

ok so im trying watercooling again







i allways fail for some reason this time i bought everything from EK just to be sure.

so i have a question, if all goes well ill buy some blocks for my 980ti's and get everything under water, but for now it's just the cpu block.

so i'm testing and seeing how everything goes all is well for now, i just have a concern.

im using ek bought primochill tubing, and the tubing that runs from the cpu to the pump passes in front of my 2 vga cards.

now i noticed that when gaming hard they put out some extreme heat, so will it damage the tubing?

should i wait and put the water blocks before playing heavy games?


----------



## Nichismo

im a little confused,

what do you mean "EK bought Primochill tubing?"

is this hard or soft tubing? either way, it should be totally fine with whatever amount of heat your components can throw at it. Unless something is sabotaged or under abnormal and unintended stress (which would still be an extremely high amount), I cant imagine anything really being severe enough to cause any damage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slatanic*
> 
> Someone here with a watercooled GTX 1080?
> 
> Im considering to watercool my 1080 with a waterblock from EK. What are the temps/clock speed?
> The heat dissipation isn't that great in my obsidian 250 d case (gpu only).


Id say 20-30c drops easily.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> im a little confused,
> 
> what do you mean "EK bought Primochill tubing?"
> 
> is this hard or soft tubing? either way, it should be totally fine with whatever amount of heat your components can throw at it. Unless something is sabotaged or under abnormal and unintended stress (which would still be an extremely high amount), I cant imagine anything really being severe enough to cause any damage.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *slatanic*
> 
> Someone here with a watercooled GTX 1080?
> 
> Im considering to watercool my 1080 with a waterblock from EK. What are the temps/clock speed?
> The heat dissipation isn't that great in my obsidian 250 d case (gpu only).
> 
> 
> 
> Id say 20-30c drops easily.
Click to expand...

It's Primochill soft tubing and he is saying he bought it through EK. They sell it and package it with their kits, although ZMT is 10 times better imo.

And yes it is possible for the coolant temp to get to an unsafe temp, pumps usually have around a max operating temp of 50c, so if the GPU's are putting out that much heat and the tube is that close then I would recommend running the tubing away from them a little.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> ok so im trying watercooling again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i allways fail for some reason this time i bought everything from EK just to be sure.
> 
> so i have a question, if all goes well ill buy some blocks for my 980ti's and get everything under water, but for now it's just the cpu block.
> 
> so i'm testing and seeing how everything goes all is well for now, i just have a concern.
> 
> im using ek bought primochill tubing, and the tubing that runs from the cpu to the pump passes in front of my 2 vga cards.
> 
> now i noticed that when gaming hard they put out some extreme heat, so will it damage the tubing?
> 
> should i wait and put the water blocks before playing heavy games?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> It's Primochill soft tubing and he is saying he bought it through EK. They sell it and package it with their kits, although ZMT is 10 times better imo.
> 
> And yes it is possible for the coolant temp to get to an unsafe temp, pumps usually have around a max operating temp of 50c, so if the GPU's are putting out that much heat and the tube is that close then I would recommend running the tubing away from them a little.


This ^^


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Just to let you know, EK sells a monoblock for the gigabyte Z1 board. Could save you a lot of tubing. Here is a picture of mine:
> 
> 
> 
> Also, is there a reason you are getting the more expensive Gigabyte Gaming G1 over the Gaming 7 besides for the integrated water cooling? Looks like you are only doing dual GPU's so I'd take a look at the Gigabyte G1 Gaming 7 which is what I have. Still has a lot of nice features and is only $200.


2 follow up questions regarding this.

So, I found the monoblock you were talking about,
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-ga-z170x-monoblock-nickel

however the G1 board is not listed in the supported list.

GA-Z170X-UD5 TH
GA-Z170X-Gaming 7-EU
GA-Z170X-Gaming 7
GA-Z170X-Gaming 6
GA-Z170X-Gaming 5

*@akira749*

Do you know if this monoblock is compatible with *GA-Z170X-Gaming G1* (rev. 1.0) Intel® Z170 Chipset ?
it's very similar to the GA-Z170X-Gaming 7
I can see from pictures GA-Z170X-Gaming GT is identical to GA-Z170X-Gaming 7
but the GA-Z170X-Gaming G1 VRM seems a little bit different, but it could just be due the factory waterblocks.

*G1*


*G7*


*GT*


*@RavageTheEarth*

Now I remember why I picked G1 over 7 or GT models.
the G1 have 2x full PCIe16 running at 16 mode on both, similar to the ASUS i'm currently running right now.

The model 7 and model GT only have 1 true PCIe16 running 16 mode, the rest are running 8 mode, even though they are PCIe16 slots.


----------



## IT Diva

FWIW,

I have both the GT and the 7.

The 7 is NOT the same as the GT.

The GT has more phases and slightly different VRM circuitry.

The monoblock does NOT fit the GT.


----------



## Ceadderman

Then likely the Mono Block will not fit any of them. At least not G1 and GT.









Or not without EK MB blocks

~Ceadder


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys, I just opened up my CPU block to change the mounting bracket, and I forgot /can't tell which way the fins in the copper/nickel base are meant to go. Do the channels go vertial, or horizontal? Thanks.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> FWIW,
> 
> I have both the GT and the 7.
> 
> The 7 is NOT the same as the GT.
> 
> The GT has more phases and slightly different VRM circuitry.
> 
> The monoblock does NOT fit the GT.


Thanks for the confirmation, it's good to know


----------



## ekgolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekgolf*
> 
> @akira749 Do you have any idea if there is an motherboard blocks for the Gigabyte x99 designare ex in the works? There is nothing on cooling configurator yet. Thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I don't know, I will try to get some infos.


Do you have any update on the eta of the monoblock? Also do you know if the mono block will cover just the cpu and the vrm or will it also cover the chipset and the plx switch? Thanks!


----------



## Kutalion

Why anyone would go anything but asus on x99 is beyond me








And you already got monoblocks for them.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Why anyone would go anything but asus on x99 is beyond me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you already got monoblocks for them.


Because the Gigabyte X99 SOC Champion is a much better platform if you're wanting to push things to the extreme? There's a reason why it's so popular with the extreme overclockers.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys, I just opened up my CPU block to change the mounting bracket, and I forgot /can't tell which way the fins in the copper/nickel base are meant to go. Do the channels go vertial, or horizontal? Thanks.


you should be able to see a little bit of a bunch of rows of cooling channels through the jet plate. If you can see the entire row of only a few then it needs to be rotated 90°
edit: you can kinda see them on the side in this shot. So horizontally I guess


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Because the Gigabyte X99 SOC Champion is a much better platform if you're wanting to push things to the extreme? There's a reason why it's so popular with the extreme overclockers.


I'd say Rampage V holding 28 world records is kinda working against that claim.
Anyhow from personal experience working as a reviewer with most, if not all, asus x99 boards i'd recommend them over GB anyday on top of having monoblocks for them already.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Why anyone would go anything but asus on x99 is beyond me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you already got monoblocks for them.
> 
> 
> 
> Because the Gigabyte X99 SOC Champion is a much better platform if you're wanting to push things to the extreme? There's a reason why it's so popular with the extreme overclockers.
Click to expand...











ASUS UEFI system is the best in the business and that can be seen in pretty much every review of all brands of MBs. They have both Gigabyte and MSi beat in that regard.









~Ceadder


----------



## bluej511

Ah asus. Good until you need customer support haha.


----------



## mus1mus

lol. As if dealing with any customer service representative is not of a pain. It's not limited to Asus anyways. You know that.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> lol. As if dealing with any customer service representative is not of a pain. It's not limited to Asus anyways. You know that.


Oh i know its bad all over, but from this forum alone it seems that Asus support is POOR and i mean beyond poor. Ive only dealt with Corsair and Antec for PCs everything else had been fine so no need for customer service, but they were both absolutely fantastic. Antec was seriously ridiculous as to send me the same part 3x to make sure it wasnt a part issue.


----------



## Majentrix

Will EK do blocks for vendor RX 480s?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> I'd say Rampage V holding 28 world records is kinda working against that claim.
> Anyhow from personal experience working as a reviewer with most, if not all, asus x99 boards i'd recommend them over GB anyday on top of having monoblocks for them already.


Mind showing me where those records are? I could only find seven, and even then I didn't check to see if they were still in first place, just ones that scored higher than the Gigabyte X99 SOC Champion.

My statement was for "pushing things to the extreme" so monoblocks are pointless, especially when talking about world records. They're great for every day usage, but terrible if you want to go subzero as insulating them even with a chiller will make it a sarcastically fun day, and even dry ice in a cooling pot (or a single stage) will outperform chilled water running through any form of block.

Rampage V Extreme: http://hwbot.org/hardware/motherboard/rampage_v_extreme/
Rampage V Extreme w/USB 3.1: http://hwbot.org/hardware/motherboard/rampage_v_extreme_u3.1/
X99 SOC Champion: http://hwbot.org/hardware/motherboard/x99-soc_champion/

Removing the USB 3.1 version from my comparison due to it having worse scores than the original, quite likely due to significantly less submissions. (27k vs 400ish isn't a fair comparison between the two models)

Gigabyte has them beat on reference clock, PiFast, SuperPi 1M, SuperPi 32M, wPrime 32M, MaxxMem, XTU (by a whopping 250 points or so), GPU Pi 1B for CPU, HWBot Prime, GeekBench3 Multi-Core

Rampage has CPU Frequency, wPrime 1024M, MaxxMem Read Bandwidth (by 20Mbps), GPU Pi 100M for CPU, Geekbench3 Single Core (and with a 5960X to boot!), HWBot x265 1080p (only 11 people on the Rampage and 6 on the SOC Champion, but it's been around long enough and is worth points so I'm keeping it in the list), HWBot x265 4k

Benches I excluded due to being new: 3dMark11 Physics (but at present, the Rampage has it), all three y-crunchers (not enough data alongside it being new and last I recall no points)
Benches I excluded due to nobody really running them due to no points being given: WinRAR (Rampage V has higher score), BlackHole Bench (Gigabyte is higher), RealBench v2 (Rampage is higher),

I excluded memory frequency because trying to sort through HWBot's results for such is difficult, as it's sorted in with all the other DDR4 submissions, which are dominated by Skylake.

EDIT: All 3D benches were excluded in my comparison because the comparison was between motherboards. (/edit)

So..... I count seven for the Rampage V Extreme, and ten going to the X99 SOC Champion. Even if you exclude XTU due to how much of an elephant in the room it is (it's rather "easy" to cheat it, despite their claims), it's still 9 for Gigabyte and 7 for Asus. The X99 Champion also has the benefit of a single DIMM per memory channel, which pays off when you're pushing things to the limit, and shows in the board typically having better scores in anything that pushes your memory.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ASUS UEFI system is the best in the business and that can be seen in pretty much every review of all brands of MBs. They have both Gigabyte and MSi beat in that regard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I said "platform for pushing things to the extreme", and therefore was aiming my comment more towards benching usage. I won't deny that Asus tends to have easier to use BIOSes, especially for Z87/Z97 - navigating my Z87X-OC isn't anywhere near as easy as my P5E (w/ custom bios, forgot who did it, s0lor maybe? Can't recall) or hubby's Maximus V Formula.

As for "proof", see above links and the HWBot data that shows benching results.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys, I just opened up my CPU block to change the mounting bracket, and I forgot /can't tell which way the fins in the copper/nickel base are meant to go. Do the channels go vertial, or horizontal? Thanks.


Here's your answer











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekgolf*
> 
> Do you have any update on the eta of the monoblock? Also do you know if the mono block will cover just the cpu and the vrm or will it also cover the chipset and the plx switch? Thanks!


Still no news about it sorry.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majentrix*
> 
> Will EK do blocks for vendor RX 480s?


If you're talking about non-reference RX480, then we don't know yet.


----------



## hiarc

Any updates on the RVE10 monoblock?


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Any updates on the RVE10 monoblock?


And full MB (MOS + PCH)


----------



## Dagamus NM

So the new Intel chips coming out next year for skylake-X should prevent the issue of people taking their gpu block apart and reassembling with the jet plate 90 degrees off. Rectangular shape will most likely not fit any of the cooling plates currently out. As it is a lengthwise socket I guess the flow will have to go bottom to top or vice versa.

Have you guys seen how dig that die is going to be?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Any updates on the RVE10 monoblock?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> And full MB (MOS + PCH)


No news....and i'm as anxious as you are guys









When they are released, it will be a tough decision between mono or full block.


----------



## Touge180SX

IMHO one of the best looking blocks EK makes. Asus 1080 Strix mounted and ready to go!


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> So the new Intel chips coming out next year for skylake-X should prevent the issue of people taking their gpu block apart and reassembling with the jet plate 90 degrees off. Rectangular shape will most likely not fit any of the cooling plates currently out. As it is a lengthwise socket I guess the flow will have to go bottom to top or vice versa.
> 
> Have you guys seen how dig that die is going to be?


That's not the new Skylake-X socket. That's the new Intel "knights landing" Co-processor Server socket. The initial rumors claiming it to be a new replacement for X99/LGA2011 with ~3,600 pins was not true; it's sad but true. Looking like we might not get hexa channel DDR4 and 3600 pin etc.. afterall lol. In reality it's likely just going to be ~2100 pins or less since Skylake-S was only 1151 pins vs 1150 on Haswell-S. Same with Kaby Lake-X. We might still get PCI-e 4.0 though. But overall our hopes for a Consumer platform with more than 4 cores, and an Enthusiast platform truly worthy of top tier setups will likely have to wait till Canonlake-S and Canonlake-E/X sadly. We'll likely see 10nm, PCI-e 4.0, ~2,500 pins or more, hexa-channel DDR4, and maybe some theoretical upgrades like NVLink for prosumers, eDRAm L4 cache on all CPUs, 128GB RAM capacity on "Z370" + 256GB RAM capacity on "X399" etc..etc..


----------



## GTRtank

Hey guys, I have a question. Would the EK-XRES 100 SPC-60 MX PWM (incl. pump) have enough flow for two 360 SE rads, +EVO CPU block, and a GPU block?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTRtank*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a question. Would the EK-XRES 100 SPC-60 MX PWM (incl. pump) have enough flow for two 360 SE rads, +EVO CPU block, and a GPU block?


Yes, it should be okay.

@geggeg do you agree?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> IMHO one of the best looking blocks EK makes. Asus 1080 Strix mounted and ready to go!


Can you measure it for actual length . . . looks like it might be a wee bit shorter than stock, once the cooler is replaced with the block.

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes, it should be okay.
> 
> @geggeg do you agree?


It will be doable as you said but flow will not be anything amazing. Depends on the GPU block in question, a new GPU block from EK is approximately as restrictive as the Supremacy Evo CPU block which would give ~0.4-0.5 GPM flow.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Can you measure it for actual length . . . looks like it might be a wee bit shorter than stock, once the cooler is replaced with the block.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Darlene


It is. The block is the exact length of the PCB which comes to 11.3"


----------



## GTRtank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It will be doable as you said but flow will not be anything amazing. Depends on the GPU block in question, a new GPU block from EK is approximately as restrictive as the Supremacy Evo CPU block which would give ~0.4-0.5 GPM flow.


It will be a GTX 780 Classy block. So you are saying .4-.5 GPM total if the pump is maxed?


----------



## VSG

Yes, but it's just a guesstimate. It won't be as bad as you think though. Even 0.3 GPM is enough for decent performance.


----------



## GTRtank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yes, but it's just a guesstimate. It won't be as bad as you think though. Even 0.3 GPM is enough for decent performance.


Sweet thanks man, I'll have to think about it. Probably just upgrade to the next pump/res combo that has much better specs. Just thinking down the line just in case I add another GPU into the loop.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> It's Primochill soft tubing and he is saying he bought it through EK. They sell it and package it with their kits, although ZMT is 10 times better imo.
> 
> And yes it is possible for the coolant temp to get to an unsafe temp, pumps usually have around a max operating temp of 50c, so if the GPU's are putting out that much heat and the tube is that close then I would recommend running the tubing away from them a little.


Just because a gpu is reading a certain temp doesn't mean the air from it is being heated to that temp reading. I've had very hot components and never had an issue with tubing and temps so unless there is naked flames in the ops case there shouldn't be an issue


----------



## AllGamer

Does anyone here have a Caselabs Mercury S8 with front Window?

Are you able to mount the EK 250mm water reservoir by the window with a 360mm fan/radiator on top?

i'm trying to find out if I should order the shorter version of the water reservoir, or if the 250mm will fin in there properly

250mm with fittings and tubes going down to a separate pump.

I know it will not fit for sure if I use the reservoir with integrated pumps.

I'm planning to do this with a dual EK reservoir setup, using this dual pump

EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial - (incl. 2x pump)




as you can see from this picture, there isn't much room left after the reservoirs are installed, I'm not sure if a 360mm Extreme radiator + fans can fin on top.

perhaps a regular thickness radiator, if not a slim version of the 360mm radiator?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> It's Primochill soft tubing and he is saying he bought it through EK. They sell it and package it with their kits, although ZMT is 10 times better imo.
> 
> And yes it is possible for the coolant temp to get to an unsafe temp, pumps usually have around a max operating temp of 50c, so if the GPU's are putting out that much heat and the tube is that close then I would recommend running the tubing away from them a little.
> 
> 
> 
> Just because a gpu is reading a certain temp doesn't mean the air from it is being heated to that temp reading. I've had very hot components and never had an issue with tubing and temps so unless there is naked flames in the ops case there shouldn't be an issue
Click to expand...

Why risk it? It's an easy fix rerouting one tube vs. living with the rhetorical worry of "will it...?".


----------



## derickwm

Teaser of what's finally coming


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Teaser of what's finally coming


Maybe I'm an idiot but not sure what's that meant be a teaser of what should I be looking at?

The CPU tubing or the SLI fittings in sequence?


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Maybe I'm an idiot but not sure what's that meant be a teaser of what should I be looking at?
> 
> The CPU tubing or the SLI fittings in sequence?


His final pics of his build.


----------



## Enapace

Lol of course he is I'm feeling so stupid here lol it half 12 lol


----------



## Touge180SX

Horrible picture but quite a bit of EK in my build.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Teaser of what's finally coming


Luvely SATA sleeving on those pipes!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Horrible picture but quite a bit of EK in my build.


Very nice sir.









~Ceadder


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Teaser of what's finally coming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I'm an idiot but not sure what's that meant be a teaser of what should I be looking at?
> 
> The CPU tubing or the SLI fittings in sequence?
Click to expand...

Neither, the reflection of Derick off the window.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ooooh that's who it is. I couldn't make it out but it kinda looks like...












~Ceadder


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> That's not the new Skylake-X socket. That's the new Intel "knights landing" Co-processor Server socket. The initial rumors claiming it to be a new replacement for X99/LGA2011 with ~3,600 pins was not true; it's sad but true. Looking like we might not get hexa channel DDR4 and 3600 pin etc.. afterall lol. In reality it's likely just going to be ~2100 pins or less since Skylake-S was only 1151 pins vs 1150 on Haswell-S. Same with Kaby Lake-X. We might still get PCI-e 4.0 though. But overall our hopes for a Consumer platform with more than 4 cores, and an Enthusiast platform truly worthy of top tier setups will likely have to wait till Canonlake-S and Canonlake-E/X sadly. We'll likely see 10nm, PCI-e 4.0, ~2,500 pins or more, hexa-channel DDR4, and maybe some theoretical upgrades like NVLink for prosumers, eDRAm L4 cache on all CPUs, 128GB RAM capacity on "Z370" + 256GB RAM capacity on "X399" etc..etc..


Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!

I imagine that most of those pins would be for the six channel memory. Bummer. Hopefully we see 48 PCIe lanes. This is what I really want. Stuff the box with GPUs and PCIe SSDs.


----------



## DRKreiger

I will jump in on the EK party!!


----------



## DRKreiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Teaser of what's finally coming


I really like the set up. But i am confused as to how the set up will flow properly. Are you aiming at the resistance from the CPU block being enough to back pressure the flow of the series configuration properly??

How are the temps like this?


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Teaser of what's finally coming


I'm not sure what you're teasing there. A new product? Or are you teasing your latest showcase rig.

Anyway, I love all the CPU and GPU waterblocks all in parallel. Very very nice. I like the tubing too, is that just sleeved or is it a whole new tubing product?

Very cool.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> I imagine that most of those pins would be for the six channel memory. Bummer. Hopefully we see 48 PCIe lanes. This is what I really want. Stuff the box with GPUs and PCIe SSDs.


48 lanes is already confirmed for Skylake-X. Even Skylake-S chips like the i7 6700K and i5 6600K etc.. had 20 pci-e lanes on the CPU instead of 16 like all the previous generations of LGA 115x like the 4790K, 3770K, 2600K etc.. had. So at the very least we'll get the extra PCI lanes. There are rumors that we will be getting things like PCI-e 4.0 with Skylake-X or Kaby Lake-X though. Which isn't that crazy really, we've already seen the "E" (now being called X) platform bringing new tech that the same architecture "S" editions didn't have (i.e. Haswell-S 4770K, 4790K etc.. only ran on DDR3; whereas Haswell-E debuted with DDR4) So it's actually fairly likely that we might see some new tech on Skylake-S; my guess would be PCI-e 4.0 and possibly Hexa-channel RAM or eDRAM L4 caches. Although your theory that hexa-channel requires a ton more pins kinda makes sense, so we'll have to wait and see what the socket size for Sky/Kaby-X is gonna be.

Interestingly, apparently in the near future Intel is going to move the top tier quad core CPUs (i.e. i7 4770K/4790K, i7 5775C, i7 6700K) onto the SAME chipset and motherboard as the "X/E" extreme CPUs. So for example when we get the Canonlake "i7 8700K" quad core 8 thread (could be 6 core, but humor me) instead of it being on the same ~LGA1158 or whatever mobo/chipset that the "i5 8600K" and such will be on, they will move that up to be with the 6, 8, and 10 core HEDT processors on the same board. Which is kinda nice really, as that means people who want the high SINGLE-core performance of like the 6700K etc.. which always end up with faster gaming etc.. speed due to that single core speed advantage, will be able to ALSO have quad or hexa channel RAM etc.. and all of the other advantages the "X" chipset offers.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice!







Those are the Darkside black Gentle Typhoons on top right?

Only thing that i could really critique aesthetically was the lack of backplate on the GPU, which is just subjective anyway. Great build!


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Yep that`s right, all of them are darkside GT-s the front ones are hidden tho, wanted to run it differently but that`s what I had to work with, ran out of room and ideas for the drain.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Yep that`s right, all of them are darkside GT-s the front ones are hidden tho, wanted to run it differently but that`s what I had to work with, ran out of room and ideas for the drain.


The drain looks fine in my opinion. Although if you want to try and "hide" it a bit, you could get a male to male extension for that fitting the drain valve is attached to the rad with; that way the valve top would be low enough to slip underneath the rad; allowing you to "tuck it away" facing the back of the case, which mostly hides it from view behind the fitting.

I find that quick disconnects make a good method of attaching a drain only when you need it, without needing to have the drain valve ALWAYS on the loop.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> 48 lanes is already confirmed for Skylake-X. Even Skylake-S chips like the i7 6700K and i5 6600K etc.. had 20 pci-e lanes on the CPU instead of 16 like all the previous generations of LGA 115x like the 4790K, 3770K, 2600K etc.. had. So at the very least we'll get the extra PCI lanes. There are rumors that we will be getting things like PCI-e 4.0 with Skylake-X or Kaby Lake-X though. Which isn't that crazy really, we've already seen the "E" (now being called X) platform bringing new tech that the same architecture "S" editions didn't have (i.e. Haswell-S 4770K, 4790K etc.. only ran on DDR3; whereas Haswell-E debuted with DDR4) So it's actually fairly likely that we might see some new tech on Skylake-S; my guess would be PCI-e 4.0 and possibly Hexa-channel RAM or eDRAM L4 caches. Although your theory that hexa-channel requires a ton more pins kinda makes sense, so we'll have to wait and see what the socket size for Sky/Kaby-X is gonna be.
> 
> Interestingly, apparently in the near future Intel is going to move the top tier quad core CPUs (i.e. i7 4770K/4790K, i7 5775C, i7 6700K) onto the SAME chipset and motherboard as the "X/E" extreme CPUs. So for example when we get the Canonlake "i7 8700K" quad core 8 thread (could be 6 core, but humor me) instead of it being on the same ~LGA1158 or whatever mobo/chipset that the "i5 8600K" and such will be on, they will move that up to be with the 6, 8, and 10 core HEDT processors on the same board. Which is kinda nice really, as that means people who want the high SINGLE-core performance of like the 6700K etc.. which always end up with faster gaming etc.. speed due to that single core speed advantage, will be able to ALSO have quad or hexa channel RAM etc.. and all of the other advantages the "X" chipset offers.


Good information but what does it have to do with EK goodies????


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Good information but what does it have to do with EK goodies????


Nothing at all, unless you count the fact that there won't be an "LGA 3647 Supremacy Evo" anytimes soon most likely









He was talking about the new ~3600 pin Skylake-X compatible socket rumored recently and whether it would have more lanes and new tech etc.. I'm pointing out that the rumors were debunked, that its actually for Intel Knights Landing Co-processors, and my speculation on said SKyalke-X's ACTUAL release date and info.


----------



## AllGamer

Quick question.

EK-Ekoolant EVO UV Lime GREEN (premix 1L) + EK-Ekoolant EVO Blood RED (premix 1L) = Orange or would it look more like Brown?

the Lime Green is like Yellow, and since both are transparent red and lime, I was hoping it'll mix into Orange.

EK web store currently doesn't have any Orange for the regular transparent liquid, only the pastel one.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quick question.
> 
> EK-Ekoolant EVO UV Lime GREEN (premix 1L) + EK-Ekoolant EVO Blood RED (premix 1L) = Orange or would it look more like Brown?
> 
> the Lime Green is like Yellow, and since both are transparent red and lime, I was hoping it'll mix into Orange.
> 
> EK web store currently doesn't have any Orange for the regular transparent liquid, only the pastel one.







(i'd say more brown judging from the video; but you can see for yourself)

If you are specifically looking for orange, i would say either get regular Mayhem orange if you can. Or if you already have red then you can mix the blood red with Sunset Yellow premix and it should give you a pretty medium orange color in equal parts red/yellow (lighter orange can be had with more yellow to less red ratio. Opposite for darker orange, add more red and less yellow)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-pastel-sunset-yellow-concentrate-250ml.html


----------



## Sazexa

Trying to fit two EK SE 360's inside a Phanteks Evolve ATX: Quite challenging, but possible.



I'm wondering if I should just do a top-mounted 240 and a thicker front mounted 360. What do you guys think would be better?

2x 360*26mm rads

Or...

360*26mm + 240*38mm


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quick question.
> 
> EK-Ekoolant EVO UV Lime GREEN (premix 1L) + EK-Ekoolant EVO Blood RED (premix 1L) = Orange or would it look more like Brown?
> 
> the Lime Green is like Yellow, and since both are transparent red and lime, I was hoping it'll mix into Orange.
> 
> EK web store currently doesn't have any Orange for the regular transparent liquid, only the pastel one.


Mixing colored coolant doesn't act like this.

If you mix those 2 colors you will most likely get a brown coolant.

To have orange coolant, buy clear coolant and add Mayhems Orange Dye in it.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Trying to fit two EK SE 360's inside a Phanteks Evolve ATX: Quite challenging, but possible.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if I should just do a top-mounted 240 and a thicker front mounted 360. What do you guys think would be better?
> 
> 2x 360*26mm rads
> 
> Or...
> 
> 360*26mm + 240*38mm


More rad space is always better then thicker. Check extremerigs for reviews see which dissipates more heat. Id try to do 360*38mm but you def dont have room.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> More rad space is always better then thicker. Check extremerigs for reviews see which dissipates more heat. Id try to do 360*38mm but you def dont have room.


I'd love to have done 360*38, but I can't fit it. For two 360's, I need to basically do it as it is. Also, just for the sake of asking, do you (or anyone who has input) think it's really a bad idea for my to have the inlets on the radiator at the bottom of the case? I know a concern is air bubbles trapped in the rad.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I'd love to have done 360*38, but I can't fit it. For two 360's, I need to basically do it as it is. Also, just for the sake of asking, do you (or anyone who has input) think it's really a bad idea for my to have the inlets on the radiator at the bottom of the case? I know a concern is air bubbles trapped in the rad.


Lay the case on its side when filling and you'll be golden


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Lay the case on its side when filling and you'll be golden


Alright, cool. Thanks. I might just do that, then.


----------



## AllGamer

Does radiator Thickness a large difference in keeping the temperature down?

I'm debating between the EK Extreme, Pro and Slim series.

The XE series seems to be almost twice the thickness of the SE series.

So, In another thread I mentioned I'm trying to setup a couple of reservoir behind the Window in the Mercury S8 case

but I'm not sure if having the 360 XE series radiator+fan on top of the 250 reservoir will fit properly.

So, if they don't fit I was pondering if perhaps I can do with the PE 360 or SE 360 radiators, to give room for the fittings.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Does radiator Thickness a large difference in keeping the temperature down?
> 
> I'm debating between the EK Extreme, Pro and Slim series.
> 
> The XE series seems to be almost twice the thickness of the SE series.
> 
> So, In another thread I mentioned I'm trying to setup a couple of reservoir behind the Window in the Mercury S8 case
> 
> but I'm not sure if having the 360 XE series radiator+fan on top of the 250 reservoir will fit properly.
> 
> So, if they don't fit I was pondering if perhaps I can do with the PE 360 or SE 360 radiators, to give room for the fittings.


Thickness between 40-45 and 55-65 you wont see as much a difference then between a slim rad and something like a 36-40mm rad.

A longer rad will always cool better then a shorter rad. But take for example a slim 360mm and a 45mm 360mm the 45mm will cool better, but going up to a 60mm you wont see much difference. I usually tell people to go for longer and also 35+ if it fits.


----------



## Dukman

Well, I guess I could say that Im part of the EK fan club though I still need to install the parts.



What we have here is

EK-FC780 GTX Classy Acetal+Nickel blocks x3
EK-Supremecy EVO Acetal+Nickel
EK-FC Terminal Triple Parallel
EK-XRES 100 with EK D5 vario pump
EK-RES tube 200
EVO Blood Red concentrate

Need to get everything sleeved and then the install (and learning process) begins. This is my first WC build.


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dukman*
> 
> Well, I guess I could say that Im part of the EK fan club though I still need to install the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> What we have here is
> 
> EK-FC780 GTX Classy Acetal+Nickel blocks x3
> EK-Supremecy EVO Acetal+Nickel
> EK-FC Terminal Triple Parallel
> EK-XRES 100 with EK D5 vario pump
> EK-RES tube 200
> EVO Blood Red concentrate
> 
> Need to get everything sleeved and then the install (and learning process) begins. This is my first WC build.


Interesting choice 3 780s hope the build goes well I'm itching like he'll start mine but my case keeps getting delayed sadly lol.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Thickness between 40-45 and 55-65 you wont see as much a difference then between a slim rad and something like a 36-40mm rad.
> 
> A longer rad will always cool better then a shorter rad. But take for example a slim 360mm and a 45mm 360mm the 45mm will cool better, but going up to a 60mm you wont see much difference. I usually tell people to go for longer and also 35+ if it fits.


ahh, Good info, so the normal Pro Series PE 360mm will do for the other areas, basically lower left, Pedestal Left + Right that's 1080mm of surface area.

The the 2x 360 at the top I'll probably have to go for the SE Slim series to give me more work space to run tunes, fittings and fan wires.

1800mm Total cooling area should be enough to keep the temp around 30C~35C right?

2x GTX 1080
1x i7 CPU
1x VRM

No mono-block available for this Motherboard model I'm planning to use.

I'm skipping on the RAM cooling, I rather keep the RAM LED


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dukman*
> 
> Well, I guess I could say that Im part of the EK fan club though I still need to install the parts.
> 
> What we have here is
> 
> EK-FC780 GTX Classy Acetal+Nickel blocks x3
> EK-Supremecy EVO Acetal+Nickel
> EK-FC Terminal Triple Parallel
> EK-XRES 100 with EK D5 vario pump
> EK-RES tube 200
> EVO Blood Red concentrate
> 
> Need to get everything sleeved and then the install (and learning process) begins. This is my first WC build.


Kudos on sleeving your own wires.. I in the other hand I'm planning to simply order the sleeved cables set from Primo Chill or any other custom PC store







(just lazyness and time which I'm always in short supply)
I barely get 30 min ~ 1 hour of game time every day, how much I miss my gaming days when I didn't need to worry about work and money


----------



## Dukman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Interesting choice 3 780s hope the build goes well I'm itching like he'll start mine but my case keeps getting delayed sadly lol.


It's actually 3 980 Ti classifieds. They just reused the 780 classified block for those cards.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dukman*
> 
> It's actually 3 980 Ti classifieds. They just reused the 780 classified block for those cards.


interesting to find out the 780 block are compatible with the 980


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dukman*
> 
> It's actually 3 980 Ti classifieds. They just reused the 780 classified block for those cards.


Well nice to hear all the same I'm going 1080 SLI


----------



## Dukman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> interesting to find out the 780 block are compatible with the 980


Only on the Classifieds. The 780, 780Ti, 980 and 980 Ti all used the same board. So when you use EK's configurator it'll kick out that 780 Classy block.

In fact, I was originally looking at the 980 Ti FTW card when they first dropped in price, but a little research revealed that there weren't many water cooling options for that card.


----------



## fitzy-775

Hey guys. I am going to be getting an EK P360 kit for my first water cooling build. I want to add a drain port to the loop when I install it and just wanted to know what fittings i would need and where would be the best place to put it. This is the kit i am going to get. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-p360


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> Hey guys. I am going to be getting an EK P360 kit for my first water cooling build. I want to add a drain port to the loop when I install it and just wanted to know what fittings i would need and where would be the best place to put it. This is the kit i am going to get. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-p360


hehehe
















welcome aboard, I'm in the same process still, researching and making my shopping list for my first custom build water loop.

I had the same question you had a few pages back.

for the Drain valve, go the the lowest part of your Water loop, so use a T split at the very bottom of the case, usually between the GPU return, and the reservoir, or pump, whatever might be there.

When you turn off the power just open the valve, and make sure to get a hose + bucket ready to receive all that liquid goo pouring out


----------



## Dukman

You could just add a T junction to the Out line at the pump and add a ball valve so you can drain the system when needed.

Edit: Ninja'd by AllGamer.


----------



## AllGamer

something like this
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-ball-valve-10mm-g1-4-black-nickel
+
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-t-splitter-3f-g1-4-black



if you want to go the extra mile, and be really fancy add one of this
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-pass-through-g1-4-black-nickel

drill a hole in your case to install a pass-through port, then you wont have to keep the valve half hanging out as in that picture, instead run a tube all the way to the outside of the case via the pass-through outlet.


----------



## fitzy-775

Ok thanks for the quick reply guys. So i am going to need two more of these fittings to use with the T junction and ball valve? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-acf-fitting-10-13mm-nickel


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> Ok thanks for the quick reply guys. So i am going to need two more of these fittings to use with the T junction and ball valve? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-acf-fitting-10-13mm-nickel


That... will really depend on how you plan to "wire" the waterloop

by wire i meant building the water flow arteries (plumbing per say),

but the short answer is yes, you might even need 3 for the T fitting, since you need to plug tubes on 3 side

or maybe 2 side only if you plan to thread the valve directly into the T

but from the image, i believe the valve both sides are also open (females)

so you will need something to bridge the gap between the T and the Valve

actually you might even need 4, or 5 of those, if you plan to use Tubes in between.


----------



## AllGamer

ah! found it
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/fittings/extenders-and-spacers/static-extender

they call these *Static Extenders* different sizes, wide, thin, depends on how far apart you want them to be

just pick the ones with 2 male sides

 

I'll need a few of these for myself as well, since I'm doing the same thing









Good thing you asked


----------



## fitzy-775

Ok thank you for the help. I was thinking about just putting the T junction and valve at the pump because that will be the lowest place in the loop. I plan to have the rad at the top of the case.


----------



## Dukman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> Ok thank you for the help. I was thinking about just putting the T junction and valve at the pump because that will be the lowest place in the loop. I plan to have the rad at the top of the case.


That's also how I plan to set up my drain as the base of the reservoir will be the lowest point in my loop. I'll just use a piece of hose with a barb attached. Then when I need to drain I can just thread the barb fitting into the valve and open it up.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dukman*
> 
> That's also how I plan to set up my drain as the base of the reservoir will be the lowest point in my loop. I'll just use a piece of hose with a barb attached. Then when I need to drain I can just thread the barb fitting into the valve and open it up.


It's what I do, it makes life very very easy when draining because of the Syphon effect it creates if you leave the loop closed with the valve open, then once you undo a plug in the loop (i do my res plug) the initial fluid drawn then creates a bit of a vacuum and jobs done in seconds.


----------



## akira749

EK releases AMD Radeon RX 480 Full-Cover water block


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases AMD Radeon RX 480 Full-Cover water block


Nice! I'm hoping to have the acrylic nickel with sunset yellow running through it here in a couple of weeks!


----------



## Sazexa

Hey everyone, as long as my pump is constantly feed liquid, can I mount it in any orientation I want? I'm considering filling my case while it's laying sideways, to help minimize air bubbles trapped in the loop while filling.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey everyone, as long as my pump is constantly feed liquid, can I mount it in any orientation I want? I'm considering filling my case while it's laying sideways, to help minimize air bubbles trapped in the loop while filling.


sideways is fine, like you said as long as it's always fed liquid. The only way you can't turn it afaik is upside down


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey everyone, as long as my pump is constantly feed liquid, can I mount it in any orientation I want? I'm considering filling my case while it's laying sideways, to help minimize air bubbles trapped in the loop while filling.
> 
> 
> 
> sideways is fine, like you said as long as it's always fed liquid. The only way you can't turn it afaik is upside down
Click to expand...

You have a dual D5 bay res so I'm not sure you can turn it on it's side. That would put one of the pumps above the water filling and could suck in air or worse burn out the pump. I'm not that familiar with that setup, but you might want to get other opinions before you do it.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> You have a dual D5 bay res so I'm not sure you can turn it on it's side. That would put one of the pumps above the water filling and could suck in air or worse burn out the pump. I'm not that familiar with that setup, but you might want to get other opinions before you do it.


Almost all pumps show possible orientation in the instruction manual.


----------



## TooTay

I don't know why this is giving me concern and confusing me 'cos it seems like this is how it would work but, let's see if anyone has any experience with this









I'm using a D5 X Res CSQ and I am purchasing a multiport top for it along with an internal tube, the plan is to use a port on the bottom of the res as the outlet instead of the one coming out of the pump top.

 

Using the internal tube it says the ports can then be used as outlet "aswell", I know there can only be one outlet port but what is confusing me is, I don't know if this means that the specific port that the tube is connected to is then able to be used as outlet or whether that all the ports on the bottom can then be used as outlets. I'd assume the the port with an internal tube attached then becomes outlet, their picture shows 3 tubes attached but, they sell them individually so I'm assuming I can get away with using just one? BLEH









Here's a low quality picture of what I want to do

















Thoughts ?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TooTay*
> 
> I don't know why this is giving me concern and confusing me 'cos it seems like this is how it would work but, let's see if anyone has any experience with this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using a D5 X Res CSQ and I am purchasing a multiport top for it along with an internal tube, the plan is to use the ports on the bottom of the res instead of the ones coming out of the pump top.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> using the internal tube it says the ports can then be used as outlet "aswell", what is confusing me lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which seems stupid even typing it, I don't know if this means that the specific port that is connected to the tube is then able to be used as outlet or whether that all the ports can then be used as outlets. I'd assume it's the port with an internal tube attached that becomes outlet and it's only purpose is to make sure water is not taken from the returning level, their picture shows two tubes but they sell them individually so I'm assuming I can get away with using just one?
> 
> Here's a low quality picture of what I want to do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts ?


You can't do that. There is only 1 outlet port period on the pump top. Any other port can be inlet.

Quoted from the instruction manual, do you have that?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> You have a dual D5 bay res so I'm not sure you can turn it on it's side. That would put one of the pumps above the water filling and could suck in air or worse burn out the pump. I'm not that familiar with that setup, but you might want to get other opinions before you do it.


You mean my dual d5 bay res? or does he have one as well? Either way that is a good point.








My xspc dual d5 can be turned on its side as long as it is at least half full, BUT it would have to have the fillport in the bottom half since that is the side with the first pump of the two in series. The second pump in mine will get liquid as long as the first one is pumping. I couldn't find what pump setup @Sazexa is using but I assumed it was a single since he said "pump"


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> You mean my dual d5 bay res? or does he have one as well? Either way that is a good point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My xspc dual d5 can be turned on its side as long as it is at least half full, BUT it would have to have the fillport in the bottom half since that is the side with the first pump of the two in series. The second pump in mine will get liquid as long as the first one is pumping. I couldn't find what pump setup @Sazexa is using but I assumed it was a single since he said "pump"


I'm using a single EK DDC 3.2 PWM with the XRES top/reservoir combo.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> You can't do that. There is only 1 outlet port period on the pump top. Any other port can be inlet.
> 
> Quoted from the instruction manual, do you have that?


I have use the top as a inlet on several builds dont know why you can not especially if you mount it horizontally with a multiport top???


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> You can't do that. There is only 1 outlet port period on the pump top. Any other port can be inlet.
> 
> Quoted from the instruction manual, do you have that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have use the top as a inlet on several builds dont know why you can not especially if you mount it horizontally with a multiport top???
Click to expand...

He was wanting to use one of the top ports as the outlet too.


----------



## TooTay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> You can't do that. There is only 1 outlet port period on the pump top. Any other port can be inlet.
> 
> Quoted from the instruction manual, do you have that?


I've updated my original post as it wasn't exactly clear, in case there is any confusion, I know there can only be one outlet port, I just want it on the bottom of the res. Quoted from the product description for the Multi Res top *"This TOP allows installation of three tubes which needs to be purchased separatelly (appropriate lenght, depending on the version of the reservoir). These tubes, which are sealed with quality NBR rubber gasket, allow the ports on this TOP to be used as an outlet ports as well."* so I'm still confused but I think I'm a little more clear on it now having re read that.

So from what I am understanding, the bottom ports are the only ones that can be outlets and only if you have the tube attached, what I'm still unsure of and it's unclear on their product pages is, if I need to have all 3 tubes attached to the ports on the bottom or if I just need 1 tube on the port I want to use as an outlet. The other two ports on the multi top can only be used as intakes still it seems.

If that's the case I'm not sure I'm going to be able to do what I had planned due to space constraints, hmm oh well


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> You mean my dual d5 bay res? or does he have one as well? Either way that is a good point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My xspc dual d5 can be turned on its side as long as it is at least half full, BUT it would have to have the fillport in the bottom half since that is the side with the first pump of the two in series. The second pump in mine will get liquid as long as the first one is pumping. I couldn't find what pump setup @Sazexa is using but I assumed it was a single since he said "pump"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using a single EK DDC 3.2 PWM with the XRES top/reservoir combo.
Click to expand...

Your sig rig says dual D5 bay res, so you might want to update that, that's where the confusion was.

That EK DDC can be orientated anyway except upside down.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TooTay*
> 
> I've updated my original post as it wasn't exactly clear, in case there is any confusion, I know there can only be one outlet port, I just want it on the bottom of the res. Quoted from the product description for the Multi Res top *"This TOP allows installation of three tubes which needs to be purchased separatelly (appropriate lenght, depending on the version of the reservoir). These tubes, which are sealed with quality NBR rubber gasket, allow the ports on this TOP to be used as an outlet ports as well."* so I'm still confused but I think I'm a little more clear on it now having re read that.
> 
> So from what I am understanding, the bottom ports are the only ones that can be outlets and only if you have the tube attached, what I'm still unsure of and it's unclear on their product pages is, if I need to have all 3 tubes attached to the ports on the bottom or if I just need 1 tube on the port I want to use as an outlet. The other two ports on the multi top can only be used as intakes still it seems.
> 
> If that's the case I'm not sure I'm going to be able to do what I had planned due to space constraints, hmm oh well


This statement in the product description is when the multiport top is used on a standalone X3 Reservoir. Since you mentioned that you have an XRes (pump/res combo) you must use the outlet that is on the XRes. In this situation, the ports on the multiport top are to only be inlets.

Here's a quote in the product description.
Quote:


> This product is compatible with the following EK reservoirs:
> - EK-RES X3 150
> - EK-RES X3 250
> - EK-RES X3 400
> - EK-DDC X-RES CSQ (ports to be used as an inlet only)
> - *EK-D5 X-RES CSQ (ports to be used as an inlet only)*


----------



## wizardbro

Can anyone who has done a similar build help me out here?
I've searched other build's but they either don't have the same setup or have used different runs when they do have the same setup as me.

I'm going to use a vii gene mobo, with the m7g mosfet block and evo supremacy naked mounted in my next build.
I want to use 90degree rigid tubing fittings on the cpu block and the mosfet block and have a straight tube between them, but the cpu block probably sits higher, even when naked mounted.

The fitting used: 
The blocks: 

Would a 7.5mm bitspower extender under the fitting on the mosfet block cover the height difference, or would I need another type of 90 degree adapter on the mosfet block?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Can anyone who has done a similar build help me out here?
> I've searched other build's but they either don't have the same setup or have used different runs when they do have the same setup as me.
> 
> I'm going to use a vii gene mobo, with the m7g mosfet block and evo supremacy naked mounted in my next build.
> I want to use 90degree rigid tubing fittings on the cpu block and the mosfet block and have a straight tube between them, but the cpu block probably sits higher, even when naked mounted.
> 
> The fitting used:
> The blocks:
> 
> Would a 7.5mm bitspower extender under the fitting on the mosfet block cover the height difference, or would I need another type of 90 degree adapter on the mosfet block?


Look Familiar? This is a Gene VI




I might have more in the Log

TCO


----------



## AEkitus

Stil a WIP waiting on a few pieces of 16/12 1000mm PETG and a fan controller, I'll Post Pic's once I get her done.

EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal+Nickel
EK-FC980 GTX Ti WF3 - Acetal+Nickel 2X
EK-FC980 GTX Ti WF3 Backplate - Black 2X
EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Z77 Parallel
EK-RES X3 400
EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - (incl. pump)
EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm FAN) Vertical
EK-CoolStream XE 480 (Quad)
EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Z77 Parallel
EK-HDC Fitting 16mm G1/4 - White


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Look Familiar? This is a Gene VI
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might have more in the Log
> 
> TCO


This helps, thanks. Also, I love the s2.0.

Looking at the log, it looks like you've used the 90 degree fitting on top of a compression fitting. I don't know how that works.. are those g1/4 threaded inside?
But that makes it about a 10mm height difference between the evo and the mosfet block. Naked mounted cpu should lower it a bit maybe.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> This helps, thanks. Also, I love the s2.0.
> 
> Looking at the log, it looks like you've used the 90 degree fitting on top of a compression fitting. I don't know how that works.. are those g1/4 threaded inside?
> But that makes it about a 10mm height difference between the evo and the mosfet block. Naked mounted cpu should lower it a bit maybe.


There is a 12mm Compression fitting inserted into the Mosfet Block. Then a short cut of tubing to a double sided female 90degree compression.



So a female/female 90 degree compression and a single 12mm Compression fitting on the mosfet.

TCO


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> There is a 12mm Compression fitting inserted into the Mosfet Block. Then a short cut of tubing to a double sided female 90degree compression.
> 
> So a female/female 90 degree compression and a single 12mm Compression fitting on the mosfet.
> 
> TCO


That completely slipped my mind. Using a dual multi link is much better than trying to use extenders, thanks.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> That completely slipped my mind. Using a dual multi link is much better than trying to use extenders, thanks.


No problem, Glad it could help









TCO


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Your sig rig says dual D5 bay res, so you might want to update that, that's where the confusion was.
> 
> That EK DDC can be orientated anyway except upside down.


Weird. I didn't know it did. I'll look into that.


----------



## TooTay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> This statement in the product description is when the multiport top is used on a standalone X3 Reservoir. Since you mentioned that you have an XRes (pump/res combo) you must use the outlet that is on the XRes. In this situation, the ports on the multiport top are to only be inlets.
> 
> Here's a quote in the product description.


Ah I saw that but, I neglected to read what was in the brackets lol









Cheers.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Can anyone who has done a similar build help me out here?
> I've searched other build's but they either don't have the same setup or have used different runs when they do have the same setup as me.
> 
> I'm going to use a vii gene mobo, with the m7g mosfet block and evo supremacy naked mounted in my next build.
> I want to use 90degree rigid tubing fittings on the cpu block and the mosfet block and have a straight tube between them, but the cpu block probably sits higher, even when naked mounted.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The fitting used:
> The blocks:
> 
> 
> Would a 7.5mm bitspower extender under the fitting on the mosfet block cover the height difference, or would I need another type of 90 degree adapter on the mosfet block?


I had this issue as they where different heights but an adjuster will fix it you you, sadly I couldn't do that as my case (Define S) wasn't wide enough to allow this so ended up with this.


----------



## SteezyTN

Guys, I am really getting frustrated with the Vardars... 140 variants specifically. I ordered 4 more ER's to run push pull on my 560 GTS radiator. All 4 that I ordered whine, and are extremely loud. I run them at 500RPM, and I was amazed at how loud they are. I know you are all thinking that it most likely is caused by running push pull... Well, I ran each fan individually, and only the ones I just ordered are faulty and loud. I just emailed PPCS, and I feel so bad because this is like my 5th time RMAing Vardar fans.

I am so frustrated with this issue. I was so happy when I finally got my first 4 140ERs that weren't faulty. Anyone else have these issues?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Guys, I am really getting frustrated with the Vardars... 140 variants specifically. I ordered 4 more ER's to run push pull on my 560 GTS radiator. All 4 that I ordered whine, and are extremely loud. I run them at 500RPM, and I was amazed at how loud they are. I know you are all thinking that it most likely is caused by running push pull... Well, I ran each fan individually, and only the ones I just ordered are faulty and loud. I just emailed PPCS, and I feel so bad because this is like my 5th time RMAing Vardar fans.
> 
> I am so frustrated with this issue. I was so happy when I finally got my first 4 140ERs that weren't faulty. Anyone else have these issues?


Mine are loud too, I just thought this was down to the fans being the way they are, large and what not.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Mine are loud too, I just thought this was down to the fans being the way they are, large and what not.


The first few I had were the faulty ones where EK recalled all of them except the F1 version. So I waited a few months, and I was sent new ones. A few were bad, so I RMAd them again. Then I finally got 4 good ones and are working like a charm right now. In between I had about 2 RMA's with the 120's, and now they are fine as well. It's just all 4 that I ordered last week are bad.

Right now, they are running at 700 RPm, and they are terrible. Twice as loud as the other 4 (which are in the "pull position")

It's just a pain because I'm spending so much on shipping as it is, that I also have to pay to ship them back. The last 140ER I had that went bad, PPCS just told me to keep it, and they would ship me a brand new one.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> The first few I had were the faulty ones where EK recalled all of them except the F1 version. So I waited a few months, and I was sent new ones. A few were bad, so I RMAd them again. Then I finally got 4 good ones and are working like a charm right now. In between I had about 2 RMA's with the 120's, and now they are fine as well. It's just all 4 that I ordered last week are bad.
> 
> Right now, they are running at 700 RPm, and they are terrible. Twice as loud as the other 4 (which are in the "pull position")
> 
> It's just a pain because I'm spending so much on shipping as it is, that I also have to pay to ship them back. The last 140ER I had that went bad, PPCS just told me to keep it, and they would ship me a brand new one.


I don't understand why you're dealing with PPCS when EK would probably sort you out?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I don't understand why you're dealing with PPCS when EK would probably sort you out?


Because I'm in the US and I ordered them from PPCS. Even the last time I asked about it here, Akira said I need to talks to PPCS.


----------



## Daggi

I have to ask, is there no more quality control over at EK?







Bought a new Supremacy Evo full nickel, didn't change anything to the block. When i mounted it in my loop the first thing that i saw was a leak in the block and a damaged motherboard. Thought that I could expect a leak free product straight out of the box from EK


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I have to ask, is there no more quality control over at EK?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bought a new Supremacy Evo full nickel, didn't change anything to the block. When i mounted it in my loop the first thing that i saw was a leak in the block and a damaged motherboard. Thought that I could expect a leak free product straight out of the box from EK


I don't care who the Manufacturer is, one should *NEVER* assume a block is water tight right out of the box.









~Ceadder


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't care who the Manufacturer is, one should *NEVER* assume a block is water tight right out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have to disagree, It's the same as if You buy a new car You expect it to run fine?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't care who the Manufacturer is, one should *NEVER* assume a block is water tight right out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yea no offense but thats a pretty poor assumption. Considering EKWB right off the bat tells you that all there blocks are tested for leaks and that once you open it up you lose the leak free guarantee should say something haha.

Im one to test EVERYTHING before installing it. I left water in all my parts to make sure there was no small leaks. Then i tested everything on a bench (ie i ran the pump,hosing, waterblock) on the floor for a little bit at full speed to check for leaks and everything else.

Im a perfectionist and very anal too.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I have to ask, is there no more quality control over at EK?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bought a new Supremacy Evo full nickel, didn't change anything to the block. When i mounted it in my loop the first thing that i saw was a leak in the block and a damaged motherboard. Thought that I could expect a leak free product straight out of the box from EK


Every new car I've ever bought had to be taken back to the dealership for some issue or another. And a couple of cars took many trips back. The world is not perfect and neither is mass manufacturing, it happens, and that's why they created RMAs.

Where exactly is the block leaking from, are you sure it's not from the fitting? How do you know the mobo is damaged, did you leak test the loop properly without power to the mobo?

There is a lot of questions before I think anyone assumes it was bad QC on EKs part.


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Every new car I've ever bought had to be taken back to the dealership for some issue or another. And a couple of cars took many trips back. The world is not perfect and neither is mass manufacturing, it happens, and that's why they created RMAs.
> 
> Where exactly is the block leaking from, are you sure it's not from the fitting? How do you know the mobo is damaged, did you leak test the loop properly without power to the mobo?
> 
> There is a lot of questions before I think anyone assumes it was bad QC on EKs part.


Yeah, sense lacking from that post. Quality control at EK can't be all that bad. I've had 16 GPU blocks and 5 CPU blocks in my own system and not one has leaked. That's more than the average user will go through in 4 years. Sometimes these things happen.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would say if you've had to take back all new vehicles you purchased/leased I'd say you have bad taste in vehicles lol but alot of people make the mistake of buying a car the first year of a new generation of a line (which have the most problems). Or people who buy American Domestic cars for that matter will always have rampant issues (notice I said cars not trucks). But yes anything that is mass produced has the high possibility of having issues and then you need to look at the shippers who are a large cause of damages on new products


----------



## Ceadderman

^...*who buy Foriegn Manufactured American Domestic cars*...

Fixed. Sadly there is not a single American Manufactured car line in a long time. Sure there are some cars still manufactured here(stoopid Tesla cars and a few of the Big Three still) but it's gon be awhile til things return to the status quo, since our leadership is more concerned with foreign unemployment rates than our own.









Sorry for the derailing guys. This is something I'm very invested in as I've had two uncles who've worked in the Automotive Service Industry.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't care who the Manufacturer is, one should *NEVER* assume a block is water tight right out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea no offense but thats a pretty poor assumption. Considering EKWB right off the bat tells you that all there blocks are tested for leaks and that once you open it up you lose the leak free guarantee should say something haha.
> 
> Im one to test EVERYTHING before installing it. I left water in all my parts to make sure there was no small leaks. Then i tested everything on a bench (ie i ran the pump,hosing, waterblock) on the floor for a little bit at full speed to check for leaks and everything else.
> 
> Im a perfectionist and very anal too.
Click to expand...

How so?

I'm rather OCD so in my mind people should never mount any block without leak testing it away from system componentry. So what EK has a guarantee. Would you honestly wast money sending in a block to have them tighten everything up prior to use.









Question is rhetorical no need to respond to it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Every new car I've ever bought had to be taken back to the dealership for some issue or another. And a couple of cars took many trips back. The world is not perfect and neither is mass manufacturing, it happens, and that's why they created RMAs.
> 
> Where exactly is the block leaking from, are you sure it's not from the fitting? How do you know the mobo is damaged, did you leak test the loop properly without power to the mobo?
> 
> There is a lot of questions before I think anyone assumes it was bad QC on EKs part.


It's leaking around one of the screws on the backside, and yes I did a 24 hour leak test up front. 100 % sure that it's not the fitting. The leak didn't happen right away but after ca 48 hours of use or so
I have tested the mobo with a air cooler and it wont post anymore


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't care who the Manufacturer is, one should *NEVER* assume a block is water tight right out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yea no offense but thats a pretty poor assumption. Considering EKWB right off the bat tells you that all there blocks are tested for leaks and that once you open it up you lose the leak free guarantee should say something haha.

Im one to test EVERYTHING before installing it. I left water in all my parts to make sure there was no small leaks. Then i tested everything on a bench (ie i ran the pump,hosing, waterblock) on the floor for a little bit at full speed to check for leaks and everything else.

Im a perfectionist and very anal too
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^...*who buy Foriegn Manufactured American Domestic cars*...
> 
> Fixed. Sadly there is not a single American Manufactured car line in a long time. Sure there are some cars still manufactured here(stoopid Tesla cars and a few of the Big Three still) but it's gon be awhile til things return to the status quo, since our leadership is more concerned with foreign unemployment rates than our own.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the derailing guys. This is something I'm very invested in as I've had two uncles who've worked in the Automotive Service Industry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How so?
> 
> I'm rather OCD so in my mind people should never mount any block without leak testing it away from system componentry. So what EK has a guarantee. Would you honestly wast money sending in a block to have them tighten everything up prior to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question is rhetorical no need to respond to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I took mine apart to change the jet plate so it doesnt matter anyways. My ek fitting leaked but not the block. Pretty sure these things are leak tested anyways, and only way it would ever leak was if the oring was installed properly. Otherwise no reason for a leak.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nvm, I figured out the confusion.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Every new car I've ever bought had to be taken back to the dealership for some issue or another. And a couple of cars took many trips back. The world is not perfect and neither is mass manufacturing, it happens, and that's why they created RMAs.
> 
> Where exactly is the block leaking from, are you sure it's not from the fitting? How do you know the mobo is damaged, did you leak test the loop properly without power to the mobo?
> 
> There is a lot of questions before I think anyone assumes it was bad QC on EKs part.
> 
> 
> 
> It's leaking around one of the screws on the backside, and yes I did a 24 hour leak test up front. 100 % sure that it's not the fitting. The leak didn't happen right away but after ca 48 hours of use or so
> I have tested the mobo with a air cooler and it wont post anymore
Click to expand...

So that would infer that heat was a contributing factor for the leak and my guess is one of the block top screws wasn't completely tight and the heat expanded the top from the block and caused the leak.

Did you check the screws before installing? Also, did you use a non conductive coolant?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Every new car I've ever bought had to be taken back to the dealership for some issue or another. And a couple of cars took many trips back. The world is not perfect and neither is mass manufacturing, it happens, and that's why they created RMAs.
> 
> Where exactly is the block leaking from, are you sure it's not from the fitting? How do you know the mobo is damaged, did you leak test the loop properly without power to the mobo?
> 
> There is a lot of questions before I think anyone assumes it was bad QC on EKs part.
> 
> 
> 
> It's leaking around one of the screws on the backside, and yes I did a 24 hour leak test up front. 100 % sure that it's not the fitting. The leak didn't happen right away but after ca 48 hours of use or so
> I have tested the mobo with a air cooler and it wont post anymore
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So that would infer that heat was a contributing factor for the leak and my guess is one of the block top screws wasn't completely tight and the heat expanded the top from the block and caused the leak.
> 
> Did you check the screws before installing? Also, did you use a non conductive coolant?
Click to expand...

It's possible that coolant could've leaked into the socket. If another chip is on hand I would check the board with it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I have to ask, is there no more quality control over at EK?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bought a new Supremacy Evo full nickel, didn't change anything to the block. When i mounted it in my loop the first thing that i saw was a leak in the block and a damaged motherboard. Thought that I could expect a leak free product straight out of the box from EK


You always leak test, don't care who you are, even B Neg leak tests using air before even putting water near his loop, I've built many loops and I still leak test every single time.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Yea no offense but thats a pretty poor assumption. Considering EKWB right off the bat tells you that all there blocks are tested for leaks and that once you open it up you lose the leak free guarantee should say something haha.
> 
> Im one to test EVERYTHING before installing it. I left water in all my parts to make sure there was no small leaks. Then i tested everything on a bench (ie i ran the pump,hosing, waterblock) on the floor for a little bit at full speed to check for leaks and everything else.
> 
> Im a perfectionist and very anal too
> I took mine apart to change the jet plate so it doesnt matter anyways. My ek fitting leaked but not the block. Pretty sure these things are leak tested anyways, and only way it would ever leak was if the oring was installed properly. Otherwise no reason for a leak.


Anything can happen to a part after it leaves EK's warehouse, anything. So never assume, it makes an *ass* out of *u* and *me*.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Anything can happen to a part after it leaves EK's warehouse, anything. So never assume, it makes an *ass* out of *u* and *me*.


Oh i agree completely but he made it seem like its a common case that EK blocks leak right off the bat haha.


----------



## FXformat

Hey guys is this normal? My 1080 nickel plexi block...i've used nothing but distilled water, cleaned the rad, all the fittings and the CPU block with hot distilled water before using too....and looks like the machining was really rough...





This is the 2nd day of having water in the loop, i just finished my build...


----------



## Sazexa

Is it normal for fittings (such as 90's and 45's) to have quite a bit of wiggle, and do so relatively loosely? As far as I know, they came that way. Also, my EK PE 360 has some sort of "rattle" to it. I tried flushing it out but nothing came out. Anyways, small update on the build.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Is it normal for fittings (such as 90's and 45's) to have quite a bit of wiggle, and do so relatively loosely? As far as I know, they came that way. Also, my EK PE 360 has some sort of "rattle" to it. I tried flushing it out but nothing came out. Anyways, small update on the build.


No it's not normal, they wiggle and it'll eventually leak..my EK 90s leaked really bad...i switched over to bitspower...paid twice as much, but it hasn't leaked since...if they move back and forth easily, the Oring is shot, and water will seep out soon enough...


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> No it's not normal, they wiggle and it'll eventually leak..my EK 90s leaked really bad...i switched over to bitspower...paid twice as much, but it hasn't leaked since...if they move back and forth easily, the Oring is shot, and water will seep out soon enough...


Interesting. Guess I gotta buy a ton of fittings lol

They never leaked in my M1 build, and that build even had pressure on the fittings in some spots.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Hey guys is this normal? My 1080 nickel plexi block...i've used nothing but distilled water, cleaned the rad, all the fittings and the CPU block with hot distilled water before using too....and looks like the machining was really rough...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 2nd day of having water in the loop, i just finished my build...


If you mean the greenich color, it might be algae, did you use a biocide in the distilled water?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Is it normal for fittings (such as 90's and 45's) to have quite a bit of wiggle, and do so relatively loosely? As far as I know, they came that way. Also, my EK PE 360 has some sort of "rattle" to it. I tried flushing it out but nothing came out. Anyways, small update on the build.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> No it's not normal, they wiggle and it'll eventually leak..my EK 90s leaked really bad...i switched over to bitspower...paid twice as much, but it hasn't leaked since...if they move back and forth easily, the Oring is shot, and water will seep out soon enough...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Interesting. Guess I gotta buy a ton of fittings lol
> 
> They never leaked in my M1 build, and that build even had pressure on the fittings in some spots.


I have a good bunch of angled adapters that have this wiggle and they never leaked so it's not true to say that they will automatically badly leak. Of course I know that some customers had leaky angled adapters but not everyone experienced this.

As for the "rattle" in the PE rad, do you experience this when you're shaking the rad in your hands or something else? I'm saying this because the rattle could simply be from the inner core hitting the removable shroud when you're shaking it and this is totally normal since it's a 2 parts thing.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Hey guys is this normal? My 1080 nickel plexi block...i've used nothing but distilled water, cleaned the rad, all the fittings and the CPU block with hot distilled water before using too....and looks like the machining was really rough...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 2nd day of having water in the loop, i just finished my build...


Hi,

The machining marks are normal. All the blocks will mostly look like this.

Your other concern is probably on the slight discoloration. I will show your pictures to the guys at the HQ to have their input.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I have a good bunch of angled adapters that have this wiggle and they never leaked so it's not true to say that they will automatically badly leak. Of course I know that some customers had leaky angled adapters but not everyone experienced this.
> 
> As for the "rattle" in the PE rad, do you experience this when you're shaking the rad in your hands or something else? I'm saying this because the rattle could simply be from the inner core hitting the removable shroud when you're shaking it and this is totally normal since it's a 2 parts thing.


Like I said, the fittings were all fine in the NCase, which was tighter and "putting pressure" on certain fittings, so to say. No leaks after it being assembled and running for a few months.

Yeah, there's a slight rattle when shaking it. None of my other EK rad's did, so I was just curious. Thanks as always, Akira!


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> The machining marks are normal. All the blocks will mostly look like this.
> 
> Your other concern is probably on the slight discoloration. I will show your pictures to the guys at the HQ to have their input.


My 980Ti blocks were silky smooth...it's all good, i went out and bought pastel white to cover up the machine marks and that discoloration..


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> My 980Ti blocks were silky smooth...it's all good, i went out and bought pastel white to cover up the machine marks and that discoloration..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful clean built, the case looks quite compact, there is no much space to work with in there.


----------



## AllGamer

@akira749

Is there any update on the EK HB bridges for the GTX1080


----------



## Vindicare

normal bridges on the maxwell platform dont have any problems right?

like the asus rog enthusiast sli bridge on 980 ti's.


----------



## enkur

How are you able to mount that video card horizontally. I would love to do that as well in my case (shame that super nice EK waterblock is all hidden







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> My 980Ti blocks were silky smooth...it's all good, i went out and bought pastel white to cover up the machine marks and that discoloration..


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> Is there any update on the EK HB bridges for the GTX1080


No recent news but the last info was that it would be somewhere in August

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> normal bridges on the maxwell platform dont have any problems right?
> 
> like the asus rog enthusiast sli bridge on 980 ti's.


Yes.

It's only the Nvidia HB (and probably the MSI HB) that is incompatible because of it's shape.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> How are you able to mount that video card horizontally. I would love to do that as well in my case (shame that super nice EK waterblock is all hidden
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


This has been my biggest gripes with cases and video cards. Ek makes a beautiful block and traditional mounting only allows you to see it at the edge, such a shame. So I fabricated a pair of brackets and bolted it onto the case, and used a pci riser cable that'll do 16 lanes to mount it this way. You'll need to spend a lot on a quality riser cable because most are pieces of crap, a good one that's actually gonna give you the full 16 lanes will cost around $40.


----------



## Vindicare

thank you @akira749

i'm waiting on my 980 ti blocks to put everything under water *-*

god willing this weekend ill have everything working!


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No recent news but the last info was that it would be somewhere in August
> Yes.
> 
> It's only the Nvidia HB (and probably the MSI HB) that is incompatible because of it's shape.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I was thinking of picking up this MSI bridge, the fan is optional



I'm hoping that one would fit the MSI Sea Hawk EX X GTX1080 (still in back order, supposed to arrive next month)


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> This has been my biggest gripes with cases and video cards. Ek makes a beautiful block and traditional mounting only allows you to see it at the edge, such a shame. So I fabricated a pair of brackets and bolted it onto the case, and used a pci riser cable that'll do 16 lanes to mount it this way. You'll need to spend a lot on a quality riser cable because most are pieces of crap, a good one that's actually gonna give you the full 16 lanes will cost around $40.


That is exactly why I went out of my way to pick up the CaseLab S8 series case, to show case the beautiful pair of EK GTX1080 Sea Haws from MSI









There is also the popular Thermaltake Core P5

http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Chassis/Mid_Tower_/Core/C_00002732/Core_P5/design.htm

but not for myself, it looks nice, but it seems prone to break apart


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> That is exactly why I went out of my way to pick up the CaseLab S8 series case, to show case the beautiful pair of EK GTX1080 Sea Haws from MSI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is also the popular Thermaltake Core P5
> 
> http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Chassis/Mid_Tower_/Core/C_00002732/Core_P5/design.htm
> 
> but not for myself, it looks nice, but it seems prone to break apart


I have that P5, it's really big, and awkward looking...looking to get rid of it for 80 bucks but nobody wants to buy...might just trash it soon...it's gigantic, if you want a wall hanging case, go with the Lian Li O6S, that was my last build that i sold...let me get a pic

This is my last build, looks way better than the Core P5 IMO..


----------



## paskowitz

Just want to double check, is it safe to use Brasso to polishing fittings?


----------



## rolldog

Well, last night I tried to install the VRM waterblock on my Asus X99 Deluxe II MB, only to find out it doesn't fit. The screws are off slightly, and it feels like the VRM chips on this board are thinner, which would prevent me from getting a solid connection between the VRMs and the waterblock. (If I held the block over the VRMs as if there were screw holes lined up on the board, the waterblock was wobbly even with the thermal pad attached). I had this block installed on my Rampage V Extreme, and I want to say it was also installed on my X99 Deluxe a few years ago when the board was released.

I bought the Plexi-Nickel waterblock and it came in a set from EK with the chipset waterblock. Does anyone have this board watercooled? Besides the CPU waterblock and a full cover waterblock? If so, what block are you using? I went to the EK Cooling Configurator, and it listed under Mosfet waterblocks that they had no intention of building one, but it said the same for the RVE, which is the board this came off of. I'm assuming it lists this because EK sells it as part of a kit, not individually. As a matter of fact, I bought this block directly from EK.

If anyone knows of a waterblock which fits the VRM on the Asus X99 Deluxe II MB, please let me know. I'm not biased on brands, as long as it's not a Chinese Aluminum block, but I would greatly appreciate some suggestions.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> This has been my biggest gripes with cases and video cards. Ek makes a beautiful block and traditional mounting only allows you to see it at the edge, such a shame. So I fabricated a pair of brackets and bolted it onto the case, and used a pci riser cable that'll do 16 lanes to mount it this way. You'll need to spend a lot on a quality riser cable because most are pieces of crap, a good one that's actually gonna give you the full 16 lanes will cost around $40.


@FXformat, do you have a link to the cable you used? Thanks!


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> @FXformat, do you have a link to the cable you used? Thanks!


http://www.coolerguys.com/840556103486.html


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> http://www.coolerguys.com/840556103486.html


Thanks FX, +rep!


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> This has been my biggest gripes with cases and video cards. Ek makes a beautiful block and traditional mounting only allows you to see it at the edge, such a shame. So I fabricated a pair of brackets and bolted it onto the case, and used a pci riser cable that'll do 16 lanes to mount it this way. You'll need to spend a lot on a quality riser cable because most are pieces of crap, a good one that's actually gonna give you the full 16 lanes will cost around $40.


which case is that?


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> which case is that?


It's a modified InWin 303


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> I took mine apart to change the jet plate so it doesnt matter anyways. My ek fitting leaked but not the block. Pretty sure these things are leak tested anyways, and only way it would ever leak was if the oring was installed properly. Otherwise no reason for a leak.


There are a few reasons actually.

1) pinched o-ring in the mfr process.

2) Fittings improperly applied. Or bad Orings. the orings could've been borked before they ever were installed.

3) Hardline tubes not true in their bends can add unnoticeable pressure to a fitting which can cause leaks.

Then we should always remember the rule of 3 to 5%.

The gist of the rule is this:

With every quality product in this industry the failure rate is roughly between 3 to 5 percent of any given product. That's truly not that bad. It sucks when you fall into those parameters but chances are reasonably slim.









~Ceadder


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> There are a few reasons actually.
> 
> 1) pinched o-ring in the mfr process.
> 
> 2) Fittings improperly applied. Or bad Orings. the orings could've been borked before they ever were installed.
> 
> 3) Hardline tubes not true in their bends can add unnoticeable pressure to a fitting which can cause leaks.
> 
> Then we should always remember the rule of 3 to 5%.
> 
> The gist of the rule is this:
> 
> With every quality product in this industry the failure rate is roughly between 3 to 5 percent of any given product. That's truly not that bad. It sucks when you fall into those parameters but chances are reasonably slim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yea but point 2-3 have nothing to do with the block but more the fittings and tubing. But i get what youre saying. For me it was the ek 90° fitting that leaked because the tubing was pulling it in an awkward angle and making it leak. Switched it and no issues since.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I have that P5, it's really big, and awkward looking...looking to get rid of it for 80 bucks but nobody wants to buy...might just trash it soon...it's gigantic, if you want a wall hanging case, go with the Lian Li O6S, that was my last build that i sold...let me get a pic
> 
> This is my last build, looks way better than the Core P5 IMO..


Its Thermaltake after all. They only make low quality, badly designed cases and low quality copies of well designed cases.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Yea but point 2-3 have nothing to do with the block but more the fittings and tubing. But i get what youre saying. For me it was the ek 90° fitting that leaked because the tubing was pulling it in an awkward angle and making it leak. Switched it and no issues since.


I had 2 EK Coolstream XE 480s that both leaked from the shroud. The radiators came with 2 extenders installed in the ports on one side of the rad, and I didn't know that you're supposed to leave them in. I tried for days to figure out how it was leaking and eventually took apart my entire build. I was using hard line tubing too, and both 480s were mounted on the top of my case. Once I broke it all down, I could see where it was leaking because I had blue dye in my coolant and my radiators were painted white. I don't know if it's because I removed the extenders, I don't know how that would do it, but I guess the pressure was too high. Now I'm finally putting everything back together, but I'm using Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 480s instead. Weirdest thing...it also would only leak if my reservoir was filled more than halfway. If I barely kept any coolant in my reservoir, just enough where it was coming in the intake and being pumped right back out, no leak.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> I was thinking of picking up this MSI bridge, the fan is optional
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm hoping that one would fit the MSI Sea Hawk EX X GTX1080 (still in back order, supposed to arrive next month)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is not the HB version though. It's the normal version of their bridge.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Well, last night I tried to install the VRM waterblock on my Asus X99 Deluxe II MB, only to find out it doesn't fit. The screws are off slightly, and it feels like the VRM chips on this board are thinner, which would prevent me from getting a solid connection between the VRMs and the waterblock. (If I held the block over the VRMs as if there were screw holes lined up on the board, the waterblock was wobbly even with the thermal pad attached). I had this block installed on my Rampage V Extreme, and I want to say it was also installed on my X99 Deluxe a few years ago when the board was released.
> 
> I bought the Plexi-Nickel waterblock and it came in a set from EK with the chipset waterblock. Does anyone have this board watercooled? Besides the CPU waterblock and a full cover waterblock? If so, what block are you using? I went to the EK Cooling Configurator, and it listed under Mosfet waterblocks that they had no intention of building one, but it said the same for the RVE, which is the board this came off of. I'm assuming it lists this because EK sells it as part of a kit, not individually. As a matter of fact, I bought this block directly from EK.
> 
> If anyone knows of a waterblock which fits the VRM on the Asus X99 Deluxe II MB, please let me know. I'm not biased on brands, as long as it's not a Chinese Aluminum block, but I would greatly appreciate some suggestions.


What you have is the EK-MOSFET ASUS X99 which was compatible with the X99-Deluxe. But this mosfet block has now reach it's end of life and it's why the Deluxe II isn't in the compatibility list for this block.

But the monoblock is suppose to fit the Deluxe and the Deluxe II so the holes should at least align on both boards with the mosfet block you have too. Can you take a picture of the misalignment?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Yea but point 2-3 have nothing to do with the block but more the fittings and tubing. But i get what youre saying. For me it was the ek 90° fitting that leaked because the tubing was pulling it in an awkward angle and making it leak. Switched it and no issues since.
> 
> 
> 
> I had 2 EK Coolstream XE 480s that both leaked from the shroud. The radiators came with 2 extenders installed in the ports on one side of the rad, and I didn't know that you're supposed to leave them in. I tried for days to figure out how it was leaking and eventually took apart my entire build. I was using hard line tubing too, and both 480s were mounted on the top of my case. Once I broke it all down, I could see where it was leaking because I had blue dye in my coolant and my radiators were painted white. I don't know if it's because I removed the extenders, I don't know how that would do it, but I guess the pressure was too high. Now I'm finally putting everything back together, but I'm using Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 480s instead. Weirdest thing...it also would only leak if my reservoir was filled more than halfway. If I barely kept any coolant in my reservoir, just enough where it was coming in the intake and being pumped right back out, no leak.
Click to expand...

EK uses the extenders so that if you plug the port it is flush and looks better. This is by design on most of thier products.


----------



## AllGamer

Hey guys, I hope this is not off topic.

I was considering picking up a Distiller Water making machine, something like this

Tinton 304 Stainless Steel Water Distiller Water Purifier Pure Water Maker
or
Waterwise 4000 Water Steam Distiller

does anyone have experience with similar machines? or some brands you have tried and tested that are known to work well?

Buying off the counter Distilled water was supposed to be easy, but during weird times there are shortages and you can't find them anywhere, that's why I'm thinking it might be a good idea to have a distiller at home, then I can have access to it whenever I plan to change refill, top up, or do full drain to the various systems.

4 PC will run on water... as soon as all the parts arrives.

I might even go with something a bit extreme like this one

Automatic Water Distillation System, 7 Gallons per day with 6 Gallon Reserve

but the problem is I've no space to put that huge thing... maybe in the garage, but it might freeze up during winter.


----------



## FXformat

Was my post about my block deleted? It's not here anymore, i have little condensation spots/leaks between the acrylic pieces, how do i get rid of them?


----------



## VSG

No, you just forgot which thread you posted it originally in: http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/99500_50#post_25366184


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No, you just forgot which thread you posted it originally in: http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/99500_50#post_25366184


Oh damn, my bad...i've owned many EK blocks, first time i've seen liquid seeped through the panels like this...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Oh damn, my bad...i've owned many EK blocks, first time i've seen liquid seeped through the panels like this...


The coolant seeping through is normal, it is just capillary action going on. As long as you do not see the coolant seep out of the area covered by the O-ring, it is not going to be a cause of concern for leakage.

You might want to tilt the case/motherboard tray to help get those air bubbles out if you are in a rush. Try changing pump speed also if that is not a possibility.


----------



## enkur

Try tiliting the case around to get rid of the bubbles. You can also put 1-2 drops of detergent in your reservoir and it will get rid of the bubbles.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Was my post about my block deleted? It's not here anymore, i have little condensation spots/leaks between the acrylic pieces, how do i get rid of them?


----------



## FXformat

bubble's gone, set pump on max through Bios, and it went away....this is my 10th water cooling build these things are easy to rid of, hehe...those spots between the blank spaces tho....







look nasty


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Oh damn, my bad...i've owned many EK blocks, first time i've seen liquid seeped through the panels like this...


Yea my 980 Blocks have a thin fluid passing under the acrylic (Non Channel) area...

But I did dismantle and hand polish them.

TCO


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Try tiliting the case around to get rid of the bubbles. You can also put 1-2 drops of detergent in your reservoir and it will get rid of the bubbles.


This is a nice tip

Does it matter which type of detergent?


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> This is a nice tip
> 
> Does it matter which type of detergent?


Clear dish washing soap. It'll rid of bubbles but big trapped air pockets like mine, you'll just have to tilt the case around and let gravity push it out.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Try tiliting the case around to get rid of the bubbles. You can also put 1-2 drops of detergent in your reservoir and it will get rid of the bubbles.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Was my post about my block deleted? It's not here anymore, i have little condensation spots/leaks between the acrylic pieces, how do i get rid of them?
> 
> ]
Click to expand...

I have had issues with the last 3 EK blocks I've had. Seems the issue I keep running into is pockets right at entry point of the block. If I tilt the case, the air pocket will go up into the tube or SLI terminal, depending on how I have it configured. I had this resolved for the most part on my last GPU configuration, but with the SLI bridge it is back with a vengeance. I've almost resigned myself to draining the loop and starting over. I had planned to do it in a few months anyway, but it's such a hassle.

Anyway, it seems to me it's more of a restriction issue than anything else. If I set my D5 PWM pump to 4800 RPM, the flow is much better and there's little chance for air bubbles to form into big pockets of air. I don't want to run a D5 pump at 100% permanently, as I don't want to buy a new pump every 3 months. So it seems I can either add another pump in serial, or just keep rocking the case for 2 weeks.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> This is not the HB version though. It's the normal version of their bridge.
> What you have is the EK-MOSFET ASUS X99 which was compatible with the X99-Deluxe. But this mosfet block has now reach it's end of life and it's why the Deluxe II isn't in the compatibility list for this block.
> 
> But the monoblock is suppose to fit the Deluxe and the Deluxe II so the holes should at least align on both boards with the mosfet block you have too. Can you take a picture of the misalignment?


Yes, after a couple of phone calls, that's what I found out. EK & Bitspower are the only ones making monoblocks for the X99 Deluxe II. I went ahead and ordered the EK monoblock (I've never used a monoblock in my life), but I assume it's going to cool both the VRM and CPU. Bad thing is I bought a new CPU waterblock a few weeks ago. I'm hoping it's hasn't been too long to return it, otherwise I'll have to list it on eBay and get what I can.

One other thing I'm considering, which is one of the reasons I hate breaking my system down; it gives me to many opportunities to spend money one things I don't really "need" to update my rig. For example, I'm contemplating buying a Broadwell i7-6950X and selling my 5960X while it's still worth something. The longer I wait, the less I'm going to be able to sell my CPU for to help offset the cost, well that's how I rationalize it.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: Anyone know how long it takes the EK store to ship items out? It's been a few days and they still nothing has been shipped out. I had a Delivery date of 07/22/16 Which is tomorrow (Took the more expensive shipping method so I would get everything at the same time). I wonder if it's to late to cancel?


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: Anyone know how long it takes the EK store to ship items out? It's been a few days and they still nothing has been shipped out. I had a Delivery date of 07/22/16 Which is tomorrow (Took the more expensive shipping method so I would get everything at the same time). I wonder if it's to late to cancel?


They normally ship out by the next business day (based on my experience,) and if you selected rush shipping, they would have in most cases unless you chose an item that needs to be assembled first prior to shipment. You should inquire with them on your order number.


----------



## GTRtank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: Anyone know how long it takes the EK store to ship items out? It's been a few days and they still nothing has been shipped out. I had a Delivery date of 07/22/16 Which is tomorrow (Took the more expensive shipping method so I would get everything at the same time). I wonder if it's to late to cancel?


Just hit up their customer service, it is quite excellent and they will get you squared away quickly and efficiently.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Hey guys, I hope this is not off topic.
> 
> I was considering picking up a Distiller Water making machine, something like this
> 
> Tinton 304 Stainless Steel Water Distiller Water Purifier Pure Water Maker
> or
> Waterwise 4000 Water Steam Distiller
> 
> does anyone have experience with similar machines? or some brands you have tried and tested that are known to work well?
> 
> Buying off the counter Distilled water was supposed to be easy, but during weird times there are shortages and you can't find them anywhere, that's why I'm thinking it might be a good idea to have a distiller at home, then I can have access to it whenever I plan to change refill, top up, or do full drain to the various systems.
> 
> 4 PC will run on water... as soon as all the parts arrives.
> 
> I might even go with something a bit extreme like this one
> 
> Automatic Water Distillation System, 7 Gallons per day with 6 Gallon Reserve
> 
> but the problem is I've no space to put that huge thing... maybe in the garage, but it might freeze up during winter.


Imo you are over thinking it. Worst case use tap water.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Try tiliting the case around to get rid of the bubbles. You can also put 1-2 drops of detergent in your reservoir and it will get rid of the bubbles.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Was my post about my block deleted? It's not here anymore, i have little condensation spots/leaks between the acrylic pieces, how do i get rid of them?
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have had issues with the last 3 EK blocks I've had. Seems the issue I keep running into is pockets right at entry point of the block. If I tilt the case, the air pocket will go up into the tube or SLI terminal, depending on how I have it configured. I had this resolved for the most part on my last GPU configuration, but with the SLI bridge it is back with a vengeance. I've almost resigned myself to draining the loop and starting over. I had planned to do it in a few months anyway, but it's such a hassle.
> 
> Anyway, it seems to me it's more of a restriction issue than anything else. If I set my D5 PWM pump to 4800 RPM, the flow is much better and there's little chance for air bubbles to form into big pockets of air. I don't want to run a D5 pump at 100% permanently, as I don't want to buy a new pump every 3 months. So it seems I can either add another pump in serial, or just keep rocking the case for 2 weeks.
Click to expand...

I am sorry but that does not make sense.

Pumps and motors are designed to be run. Running them at 100% or 50% it does not matter. You won't have to buy another in 3 months

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> This is not the HB version though. It's the normal version of their bridge.
> What you have is the EK-MOSFET ASUS X99 which was compatible with the X99-Deluxe. But this mosfet block has now reach it's end of life and it's why the Deluxe II isn't in the compatibility list for this block.
> 
> But the monoblock is suppose to fit the Deluxe and the Deluxe II so the holes should at least align on both boards with the mosfet block you have too. Can you take a picture of the misalignment?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, after a couple of phone calls, that's what I found out. EK & Bitspower are the only ones making monoblocks for the X99 Deluxe II. I went ahead and ordered the EK monoblock (I've never used a monoblock in my life), but I assume it's going to cool both the VRM and CPU. Bad thing is I bought a new CPU waterblock a few weeks ago. I'm hoping it's hasn't been too long to return it, otherwise I'll have to list it on eBay and get what I can.
> 
> One other thing I'm considering, which is one of the reasons I hate breaking my system down; it gives me to many opportunities to spend money one things I don't really "need" to update my rig. For example, I'm contemplating buying a Broadwell i7-6950X and selling my 5960X while it's still worth something. The longer I wait, the less I'm going to be able to sell my CPU for to help offset the cost, well that's how I rationalize it.
Click to expand...

Sell the block on OCN instead


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Oh damn, my bad...i've owned many EK blocks, first time i've seen liquid seeped through the panels like this...
> 
> 
> 
> Yea my 980 Blocks have a thin fluid passing under the acrylic (Non Channel) area...
> 
> But I did dismantle and hand polish them.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

I believe that one way to fix that issue is to use some clear RTB silicon sealant. Applying it to the block without the top with a thin coat, let it dry and mount the top. The silicon will squish when you mount the acrylic, so leaving a small outline between the mounting area and the water channel would be a good idea so the silicon won't be dragged into the coolant and become a possible pump killer.

I don't have FC blocks so I cannot speak to how well this would work, but it seems like it's the best solution to keep the flow of coolant in it's intended pathway. Not sure but I think that would be beneficial in the overall performance also as the coolant wouldn't be able to jump through one channel into the next. I could be wrong on that of course and that's acceptable. Nobody is right 100% of the time.









~Ceadder


----------



## Vindicare

So i received my new stuff from EK, yay!

i added a new 360 rad and 2 vga blocks to my loop.

everything fine and dandy, had to engineer (with a hammer lol) my Corsair 780T to be able to fit the 360 in the front (i have another on top).

so i build everyhting, mount the blocks on my nvidia cards, and then when putting them on the motherboard i realise....









i bought the "FC terminal dual parallel 3 slot", and on my rampage V actually i need a 4 slot space for it to be on the right pcie slots.

so now im a bit .. well .. sad, my fault im new at this and well .. i tought i was ordering the right part....

aniway i mounted the stuff aniway .. one of my cards is now on a 4x pcie slot ... but after i come from holydays next month i will order what i hope is the right part the "EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Parallel - Plexi" i think this is the one i should have ordered...

now i do have a question , i have 2 cards ofc not three, so i mount this bridge on them, but it will have holes for a third card in the middle, so i also have to buy the "EK-FC Terminal BLANK Parallel" right? so my question is does the blank panel come with the necessary 3 screws?

also having one of my vgas on a 4x slot do you guys have any experiencie is it very bad? its only for a month or so.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> So i received my new stuff from EK, yay!
> 
> i added a new 360 rad and 2 vga blocks to my loop.
> 
> everything fine and dandy, had to engineer (with a hammer lol) my Corsair 780T to be able to fit the 360 in the front (i have another on top).
> 
> so i build everyhting, mount the blocks on my nvidia cards, and then when putting them on the motherboard i realise....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i bought the "FC terminal dual parallel 3 slot", and on my rampage V actually i need a 4 slot space for it to be on the right pcie slots.
> 
> so now im a bit .. well .. sad, my fault im new at this and well .. i tought i was ordering the right part....
> 
> aniway i mounted the stuff aniway .. one of my cards is now on a 4x pcie slot ... but after i come from holydays next month i will order what i hope is the right part the "EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Parallel - Plexi" i think this is the one i should have ordered...
> 
> now i do have a question , i have 2 cards ofc not three, so i mount this bridge on them, but it will have holes for a third card in the middle, so i also have to buy the "EK-FC Terminal BLANK Parallel" right? so my question is does the blank panel come with the necessary 3 screws?
> 
> also having one of my vgas on a 4x slot do you guys have any experiencie is it very bad? its only for a month or so.


Yes you will need terminal blanks to block off all unused block openings.










I think that there is no parallel quad bridges either so order two for your planned upgrade.









~Ceadder


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Hey guys, I hope this is not off topic.
> 
> I was considering picking up a Distiller Water making machine, something like this
> 
> Tinton 304 Stainless Steel Water Distiller Water Purifier Pure Water Maker
> or
> Waterwise 4000 Water Steam Distiller
> 
> does anyone have experience with similar machines? or some brands you have tried and tested that are known to work well?
> 
> Buying off the counter Distilled water was supposed to be easy, but during weird times there are shortages and you can't find them anywhere, that's why I'm thinking it might be a good idea to have a distiller at home, then I can have access to it whenever I plan to change refill, top up, or do full drain to the various systems.
> 
> 4 PC will run on water... as soon as all the parts arrives.
> 
> I might even go with something a bit extreme like this one
> 
> Automatic Water Distillation System, 7 Gallons per day with 6 Gallon Reserve
> 
> but the problem is I've no space to put that huge thing... maybe in the garage, but it might freeze up during winter.


At those prices I'd sooner pick up a Spectrapure ro/di setup, as it's a brand that sooooooooo many saltwater fish (and coral) keepers swear by, but you'd have to ask some of the water cooling guys around here if rodi is "as good" as distilled for our loops.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> So i received my new stuff from EK, yay!
> 
> i added a new 360 rad and 2 vga blocks to my loop.
> 
> everything fine and dandy, had to engineer (with a hammer lol) my Corsair 780T to be able to fit the 360 in the front (i have another on top).
> 
> so i build everyhting, mount the blocks on my nvidia cards, and then when putting them on the motherboard i realise....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i bought the "FC terminal dual parallel 3 slot", and on my rampage V actually i need a 4 slot space for it to be on the right pcie slots.
> 
> so now im a bit .. well .. sad, my fault im new at this and well .. i tought i was ordering the right part....
> 
> aniway i mounted the stuff aniway .. one of my cards is now on a 4x pcie slot ... but after i come from holydays next month i will order what i hope is the right part the "EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Parallel - Plexi" i think this is the one i should have ordered...
> 
> now i do have a question , i have 2 cards ofc not three, so i mount this bridge on them, but it will have holes for a third card in the middle, so i also have to buy the "EK-FC Terminal BLANK Parallel" right? so my question is does the blank panel come with the necessary 3 screws?
> 
> also having one of my vgas on a 4x slot do you guys have any experiencie is it very bad? its only for a month or so.


Yes the blank comes with it's own screws and o-rings.









With the Triple and the Blank you'll be fine.


----------



## Vindicare

@akira749 @Ceadderman thank you.

newb mistake, now sli does not work









on the other hand the temps are fabulous now


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> @akira749 @Ceadderman thank you.
> 
> newb mistake, now sli does not work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on the other hand the temps are fabulous now


Nvidia disabled x4 SLI for some reason. You need x8 at least.


----------



## mypickaxe

Seems to be a fair amount of evidence on the forum for failed D5 PWM pumps from users who ran them at 100% for extended periods of time. All moving parts are designed to be run, but that doesn't mean operating them at peak output will result in the same MTBF as if one operated the same part at 33%.

Regardless, I do not want to listen to a pump run at 4800 RPM. It's too loud.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Oh damn, my bad...i've owned many EK blocks, first time i've seen liquid seeped through the panels like this...
> 
> 
> 
> Yea my 980 Blocks have a thin fluid passing under the acrylic (Non Channel) area...
> 
> But I did dismantle and hand polish them.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

I can confirm it happens even if you do not dismantle the block to clean it. Mine still have the seals on them and exhibit the same thing.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Imo you are over thinking it. Worst case use tap water.


I thought using tap water was bad for the water loop systems, like forming scales, and rust, and algae to name a few.

Well algae I know we can prevent with those biocite drops to kill everything, and rust could probably be prevented by using Car's coolant, but still not sure how to prevent scaling from tap water.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> At those prices I'd sooner pick up a Spectrapure ro/di setup, as it's a brand that sooooooooo many saltwater fish (and coral) keepers swear by, but you'd have to ask some of the water cooling guys around here if rodi is "as good" as distilled for our loops.


Interesting, I'll check it out.

Thanks


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Imo you are over thinking it. Worst case use tap water.
> 
> 
> 
> I thought using tap water was bad for the water loop systems, like forming scales, and rust, and algae to name a few.
> 
> Well algae I know we can prevent with those biocite drops to kill everything, and rust could probably be prevented by using Car's coolant, but still not sure how to prevent scaling from tap water.
Click to expand...

He's just saying it would be easier to use tap water instead of investing a lot of money in a distilling machine that could be used for post apocalyptic survival. Tap water should be last resort imo though.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Imo you are over thinking it. Worst case use tap water.
> I am sorry but that does not make sense.
> 
> Pumps and motors are designed to be run. Running them at 100% or 50% it does not matter. You won't have to buy another in 3 months
> Sell the block on OCN instead


I might do that. So far I have 2 unused Bitspower CPU blocks for a 2011 v3 CPU, Nickel-plexi blocks for VRM and chips etc that fit an Asus RVE, 4 x 8GB Kingston HyperX Predator 2400Mhz DDR4 CL12 memory, and an Intel i7-5960X. Once I'm finished with my build, I'll probably have extra fittings since I changed my loop around and then changed up my fittings. Plus I always order a few extra.


----------



## dilster97

Sorry if this has already been answered but i'm not sure what to believe.

I have the EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM and while it has been performing like a champion, the PWM function is rather confusing i found.

Does it operate at 60% or 100% while the PWM fan header is disconnected?

EK site says 100% but others claim 60%.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> Sorry if this has already been answered but i'm not sure what to believe.
> 
> I have the EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM and while it has been performing like a champion, the PWM function is rather confusing i found.
> 
> Does it operate at 60% or 100% while the PWM fan header is disconnected?
> 
> EK site says 100% but others claim 60%.


I would go with what EK has listed on its site.


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I would go with what EK has listed on its site. If you think about it, it should either be "On" or "Off." Without a PWM signal present, how would it be able to set itself to 60%? If you look at the actual specs listed on their site, they have 60 listed...for maximum system temperature. I think there's some confusion abounding in part because of this, and in part because of bad information relayed.
> 
> So, unless there's a manual switch to adjust the RPM, or a stepping based on input voltage (such as 12V or 24V) then, I'd say it is safe to go with what EK lists as default.


Alright thanks. Guess it would have made sense to go with EK in the first place.


----------



## jvidia

Hello friends!

Two questions for you to help me please ...

1) can a color concentrate be mixed with the "EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR Premix"? Which one?
I have one closed bottle and I'm thinking to switch to clear tubing and some color would be nice.








The EK site doesn't say nothing about adding color to the clear Ekoolant.

2) I have only the CPU on my loop, and I'm moving my system to a Fractal Define S case and I want to put an EK 360mm reservoir on top.
My question is ... which model should I use, SE or PE??
Performance/price wise PE is the way to go but the Define S has only 5.5cm of clearance before overlapping the motherboard.
Will I notice temperature difs with PE over the SE that compensates the bulkiness?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> Sorry if this has already been answered but i'm not sure what to believe.
> 
> I have the EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM and while it has been performing like a champion, the PWM function is rather confusing i found.
> 
> Does it operate at 60% or 100% while the PWM fan header is disconnected?
> 
> EK site says 100% but others claim 60%.


Both answers are correct . . . .

It depends on which PWM D5 you have . . . .

The original, or the new one designated the GEN 2.

The original Laing ran at 60% when the PWM connector was not connected.

EK's new GEN 2 runs at 100% when the PWM connector is not connected. . . . just like a PWM fan does

It also has a slightly wider more linear PWM percentage versus RPM correlation.

Darlene


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Both answers are correct . . . .
> 
> It depends on which PWM D5 you have . . . .
> 
> The original, or the new one designated the GEN 2.
> 
> The original Laing ran at 60% when the PWM connector was not connected.
> 
> EK's new GEN 2 runs at 100% when the PWM connector is not connected. . . . just like a PWM fan does
> 
> It also has a slightly wider more linear PWM percentage versus RPM correlation.
> 
> Darlene


Mines the original i think (or Gen 1, came with the XRES 140 REVO combo unit) .

Still with the PWM signal wire removed i only lost a degree in temps. Pump was noticeably louder though. Weird.


----------



## Enapace

This is going sound odd but what are the advantages of monoblocks I'm debating moving to Skylake over Devil Canyon staying with Micro ATX and saw EK make a Monoblock for the ASUS MAXIMUS VIII GENE which looks like a very good Micro ATX board. So what I'm asking are Monoblocks purely aesthetic as assume you can see coolant better in one then a normal CPU block or do they give a noticeable benefit in other ways.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> This is going sound odd but what are the advantages of monoblocks I'm debating moving to Skylake over Devil Canyon staying with Micro ATX and saw EK make a Monoblock for the ASUS MAXIMUS VIII GENE which looks like a very good Micro ATX board. So what I'm asking are Monoblocks purely aesthetic as assume you can see coolant better in one then a normal CPU block or do they give a noticeable benefit in other ways.


Monoblocks cool the vrm as well, as far as CPU cooling it is essentially the same. Looks cool tho, I had it for my Maximus gene, only bad thing is, it can't be transferred if you got another mobo. I'm using the supremacy evo now


----------



## Yey09

does the evga 980ti hybrid in/out port aligned with EK 780 GPU block?


----------



## RnRollie

well, for one thing.. you dont have to deal with connecting up a bazillion fittings & elbows & hoses, which is always expensive, fiddly and a potential leak source
Also, i think one such block "flows" better compared to a succession of individual blocks


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Monoblocks cool the vrm as well, as far as CPU cooling it is essentially the same. Looks cool tho, I had it for my Maximus gene, only bad thing is, it can't be transferred if you got another mobo. I'm using the supremacy evo now


If I do go to Skylake I will be sticking with it till Icelake the next big revision. With Kabylake being a optimisation and Cannonlake being a die shrink so around 2 to 2 and half years.

What made you change motherboards ?


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> This is going sound odd but what are the advantages of monoblocks I'm debating moving to Skylake over Devil Canyon staying with Micro ATX and saw EK make a Monoblock for the ASUS MAXIMUS VIII GENE which looks like a very good Micro ATX board. So what I'm asking are Monoblocks purely aesthetic as assume you can see coolant better in one then a normal CPU block or do they give a noticeable benefit in other ways.


I used to use only a CPU block, but then I started buying the MB block set, which came with the VRM waterblock and the chips etc waterblock. It helps with cooling, especially if you're overclocking and overvolting some of your components. I just bought an Asus X99 Deluxe II, but my old VRM and chipset waterblocks don't fit on this board. Yesterday, I received a monoblock from EK to at least cool my VRM as well as my CPU. This will be the first time using a monoblock (no one make individual blocks for the X99 Deluxe II MB), but the block looks kinda cool. I bought the nickel-plexi block, which has holes in it for 2 x 3mm LEDs, so once my i7-6750X arrives I'll be able to install it. I think it'll look good with my white case, blue and white theme, white LEDs, and Mayhem's Ultra White Pastel coolant.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Imo you are over thinking it. Worst case use tap water.
> 
> 
> 
> I thought using tap water was bad for the water loop systems, like forming scales, and rust, and algae to name a few.
> 
> Well algae I know we can prevent with those biocite drops to kill everything, and rust could probably be prevented by using Car's coolant, but still not sure how to prevent scaling from tap water.
Click to expand...

If you did you would have minor scale.

Once the scale settled no more would appear (generally speaking) heavy scaling would only be an issue if you're continually adding water. But I would also agree use tap water as a last resort


----------



## laxboimike

Upgraded to a newer EK pump and all Vardar fans !!!! The fans are amazing and dead silent!!! Great products as usually.... Now to change those ugly wires on my vid cards =/


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laxboimike*
> 
> Upgraded to a newer EK pump and all Vardar fans !!!! The fans are amazing and dead silent!!! Great products as usually.... Now to change those ugly wires on my vid cards =/


Which Vardar series? F1-F4?

I am really happy with how my build is looking right now. Just a simple LED add and it's got just enough "bling" factor to tide me over until a GPU or CPU swap.


----------



## laxboimike

I just did the F1 Fans.... Went for the silence lol


----------



## bigbite76

Does anyone know what would cause part of the plexi block to go opaque? Both blocks where installed last year at the same time and one has gone opaque. Have tried cleaning it with warm soapy water but it didn't work.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbite76*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what would cause part of the plexi block to go opaque? Both blocks where installed last year at the same time and one has gone opaque. Have tried cleaning it with warm soapy water but it didn't work.


Foreign agents. Could be metal from the radiator or something got into the coolant (dirt, etc.) Plexi scratches easily.

You can clean / sand / buff the plexi back to near original form.


----------



## meson1

Is it a given that we can expect blocks for the forthcoming Titan XP? And what sort of timescale might we be looking at given TXP releases on August 2nd, please?


----------



## septro

What's the status of the EK HB SLI bridge? There doesn't seem to be anything in stock right now for EVGAs version which seems to be the only other one that works with EK blocks.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *septro*
> 
> What's the status of the EK HB SLI bridge? There doesn't seem to be anything in stock right now for EVGAs version which seems to be the only other one that works with EK blocks.


Exactly, I was hoping to get my hands on some EVGAs as well when they announced it, but it was all sold out by the time I went to their website.

Waiting for new batches of EVGA or EK HB SLI bridges.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Hello friends!
> 
> Two questions for you to help me please ...
> 
> 1) can a color concentrate be mixed with the "EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR Premix"? Which one?
> I have one closed bottle and I'm thinking to switch to clear tubing and some color would be nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The EK site doesn't say nothing about adding color to the clear Ekoolant.
> 
> 2) I have only the CPU on my loop, and I'm moving my system to a Fractal Define S case and I want to put an EK 360mm reservoir on top.
> My question is ... which model should I use, SE or PE??
> Performance/price wise PE is the way to go but the Define S has only 5.5cm of clearance before overlapping the motherboard.
> Will I notice temperature difs with PE over the SE that compensates the bulkiness?


1) You can mix every Ekoolant EVO together if you want. If you go with the concentrate, just make sure to first mix the concentrate with distilled water and then mix it with your Premix. If the thing you want to achieve is simply coloring your Clear Premix, you can also add Mayhems dye in it.









2) The SE will give you ample of cooling for your CPU and you won't be bothered with the rad clearance in your case.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbite76*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what would cause part of the plexi block to go opaque? Both blocks where installed last year at the same time and one has gone opaque. Have tried cleaning it with warm soapy water but it didn't work.


It's very weird that those 2 blocks were in the same loop and the top of only one reacted like this!!

My suggestion is to open a ticket on our website to show this to our support team.

Link : https://ekwb.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *septro*
> 
> What's the status of the EK HB SLI bridge? There doesn't seem to be anything in stock right now for EVGAs version which seems to be the only other one that works with EK blocks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Exactly, I was hoping to get my hands on some EVGAs as well when they announced it, but it was all sold out by the time I went to their website.
> 
> Waiting for new batches of EVGA or EK HB SLI bridges.


The last info I had on the EK HB SLI bridges was that they should be available somewhere in August unless something delays them.


----------



## tistou77

No news for waterblocks for Asus Rampage V Edition 10 ?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> No news for waterblocks for Asus Rampage V Edition 10 ?


Probably release at the end of the week


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *septro*
> 
> What's the status of the EK HB SLI bridge? There doesn't seem to be anything in stock right now for EVGAs version which seems to be the only other one that works with EK blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly, I was hoping to get my hands on some EVGAs as well when they announced it, but it was all sold out by the time I went to their website.
> 
> Waiting for new batches of EVGA or EK HB SLI bridges.
Click to expand...

Setup an alert on the EVGA site to be notified when they have more inventory. I did this and once I received the notice on my phone, ordered within 10 minutes and I received it in a few days.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Probably release at the end of the week


Thanks akira749









I hope it will be available at resellers in early August


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 1) You can mix every Ekoolant EVO together if you want. If you go with the concentrate, just make sure to first mix the concentrate with distilled water and then mix it with your Premix. If the thing you want to achieve is simply coloring your Clear Premix, you can also add Mayhems dye in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The SE will give you ample of cooling for your CPU and you won't be bothered with the rad clearance in your case.


Thank you akira.

So if i understood i can color the Ekoolant Clear with any Mayhems dye ink and not damage my rad or block right?

As to the rad, do you have any reference table saying what rad to use with a determined number of blocks in a loop?

Im resistant on going with the SE because in the reviews it is given always a poor performance vs the PE.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Thank you akira.
> 
> So if i understood i can color the Ekoolant Clear with any Mayhems dye ink and not damage my rad or block right?
> 
> As to the rad, do you have any reference table saying what rad to use with a determined number of blocks in a loop?
> 
> Im resistant on going with the SE because in the reviews it is given always a poor performance vs the PE.


well, something to keep in mind

transparent color coolant are usually safe, but Pastel (solid look) colors have residues mixed in the coolant to give it that "solid" look feel.

people recommend using colored tubings, instead of using pastel coolants.

For Mayhems they have several kinds.
Mayhem have the normal clear liquid coolants
as well as the Pastel kind
and their more exotic Galaxy mixes, that gives that sparkling flux mix looks.

According to people that have used it for a while, eventually they all fade away and look like the Pastel type after a few months.

I too originally planned to use the Mayhems galaxy mix, but after learning that, I'll just stick with the usual transparent color coolant, or at most go with the pastel type, depending on the effect I plan to create.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Thank you akira.
> 
> So if i understood i can color the Ekoolant Clear with any Mayhems dye ink and not damage my rad or block right?
> 
> As to the rad, do you have any reference table saying what rad to use with a determined number of blocks in a loop?
> 
> Im resistant on going with the SE because in the reviews it is given always a poor performance vs the PE.


Yes any Mayhems dye. It won't damage but will require you to do a good clean up if you decide to switch to a different color after a while.

Of course the PE will outperform the SE because it's ticker but you can't fit it so you can't really compare both.


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> well, something to keep in mind
> 
> transparent color coolant are usually safe, but Pastel (solid look) colors have residues mixed in the coolant to give it that "solid" look feel.
> 
> people recommend using colored tubings, instead of using pastel coolants.
> 
> For Mayhems they have several kinds.
> Mayhem have the normal clear liquid coolants
> as well as the Pastel kind
> and their more exotic Galaxy mixes, that gives that sparkling flux mix looks.
> 
> According to people that have used it for a while, eventually they all fade away and look like the Pastel type after a few months.
> 
> I too originally planned to use the Mayhems galaxy mix, but after learning that, I'll just stick with the usual transparent color coolant, or at most go with the pastel type, depending on the effect I plan to create.


I was refering to the Mayhems Dye only. The clear/basic color ink. No pastel or more funky stuff


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes any Mayhems dye. It won't damage but will require you to do a good clean up if you decide to switch to a different color after a while.
> 
> Of course the PE will outperform the SE because it's ticker but you can't fit it so you can't really compare both.


Akira, the PE (with 120mm fans) fits on the top of the Define S!
It only overlaps a bit the motherboard when the fans are added to it.

The oficial clearence on the Define S is 5.5cm if i recall well, but going beyond it is only a problem when using 140mm fan rads.
With 120mm fan rads it's more of a visual or pratical problem of having it overlaping the board.
In the case of the PE (with fans) it overlaps by +/- 8mm (3.8cm for the PE + 2.5cm for the fans) over the oficial clearence.

I would like to hear from people who have this setup (Define S + Coolstream PE), if they are happy with it or if it is in any way obstructive and if they would choose again the PE if they were to build the system again.


----------



## Snaporz

I saw it asked earlier but want to follow up in case it was overlooked. Any timetable as to when to expect an EKWB for new Titan X?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snaporz*
> 
> I saw it asked earlier but want to follow up in case it was overlooked. Any timetable as to when to expect an EKWB for new Titan X?


would also like to know this


----------



## Benjiw

One of my EK Vardar fans has developed both a really loud hum and a clicking sound is there any recalls on Vardar fans at all as I know another member here has had issues with his 140mm fans making noise?

@SteezyTN Have you solved your issue? Mine are In pull like yours and they're starting to really get on my nerves.


----------



## enkur

Decided it was time to do a loop flush and took the opportunity to clean up the components. Also re-routed the radiator for more efficient flow.
Here is the result.

Thanks to everyone here for their valuable suggestions.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Decided it was time to do a loop flush and took the opportunity to clean up the components. Also re-routed the radiator for more efficient flow.
> Here is the result.
> 
> Thanks to everyone here for their valuable suggestions.


That case a lil 350d?

EDIT: Maybe not...

TCO


----------



## enkur

Its Fractal Design Define R5
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That case a lil 350d?
> 
> EDIT: Maybe not...
> 
> TCO


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snaporz*
> 
> I saw it asked earlier but want to follow up in case it was overlooked. Any timetable as to when to expect an EKWB for new Titan X?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> would also like to know this


We're currently in the design phase for the new Titan X block


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> One of my EK Vardar fans has developed both a really loud hum and a clicking sound is there any recalls on Vardar fans at all as I know another member here has had issues with his 140mm fans making noise?
> 
> @SteezyTN Have you solved your issue? Mine are In pull like yours and they're starting to really get on my nerves.


Did you bought it from our website or from a reseller?


----------



## zJACKRABBIT

I just finished this build so I figured I'd share! Really wish I had gotten some Vardar fans though. These bitfenix fans vibrate pretty bad









Here's a link to my build thread if you care! http://www.overclock.net/t/1605990/define-nano-s-nvidia-themed-build-finally-watercooled/0_20


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zJACKRABBIT*
> 
> I just finished this build so I figured I'd share! Really wish I had gotten some Vardar fans though. These bitfenix fans vibrate pretty bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a link to my build thread if you care! http://www.overclock.net/t/1605990/define-nano-s-nvidia-themed-build-finally-watercooled/0_20


ooooh pretty


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zJACKRABBIT*
> 
> I just finished this build so I figured I'd share! Really wish I had gotten some Vardar fans though. These bitfenix fans vibrate pretty bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a link to my build thread if you care! http://www.overclock.net/t/1605990/define-nano-s-nvidia-themed-build-finally-watercooled/0_20


Try decoupling those fans from the rad with rubber washers. I don't have those exact fans but I do have regular Bitfenix Spectre's and I don't hear them at all.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Did you bought it from our website or from a reseller?


Reseller, it seems to only be one fan and I'm glad it isn't the fan I modded to clear the fitting on my mosfet block.

EDIT: Do the fan blades come off the hub so I can see if there is something causing the noise and or for paint?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> One of my EK Vardar fans has developed both a really loud hum and a clicking sound is there any recalls on Vardar fans at all as I know another member here has had issues with his 140mm fans making noise?
> 
> @SteezyTN Have you solved your issue? Mine are In pull like yours and they're starting to really get on my nerves.


Short of. PPCS emailed EK and cc'd me too. EK told me to keep the fans and throw them out, and have PPCS send me 4 more new ones. It's been 11 days since I've heard anything from PPCS about them sending me new fans. I'll email them tomorrow and see what's up. Seems like they forgot about it.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Do we have a release date for the gainward phoenix 1080 waterblock? Says coming doon under configurator.


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Says coming doon under configurator.


OMG, you suddenly turned scottish there.









(Nowt wrong with that BTW. Scots are great.).


----------



## MegaTheJohny

@akira749 or someone else could help me.
I have EK D5 PWM pump, and I am trying to flush my loop for the first time. (I want to change my old coolant).
So my problem is that I can't get my top rad to fill up with new fluid. Just like pump has not enough power to push fluid up to the top rad.
I am using Phobya power supply with one molex (100-240V AC). If I put my hand on the pump I can feel little vibration, so the pump is working for sure,but not powerful enough.Maybe my Phobya molex power supply is not enough ?

Can I connect ED D5 pump to my secondary working PC via molex, just to fill the loop?
plz help tnx


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> @akira749 or someone else could help me.
> I have EK D5 PWM pump, and I am trying to flush my loop for the first time. (I want to change my old coolant).
> So my problem is that I can't get my top rad to fill up with new fluid. Just like pump has not enough power to push fluid up to the top rad.
> I am using Phobya power supply with one molex (100-240V AC). If I put my hand on the pump I can feel little vibration, so the pump is working for sure,but not powerful enough.Maybe my Phobya molex power supply is not enough ?
> 
> Can I connect ED D5 pump to my secondary working PC via molex, just to fill the loop?
> plz help tnx


PWM pumps only run at 60% when plugged into molex with the PWM connector NOT connected. If its connected it will run even slower. Depends if you have the newer pump or older one, newer D5 pwm supposedly runs at 100% when disconnected. You can feed 5v into the last pin on the pwm connector and it will run it at 100%.


----------



## MegaTheJohny

While I was trying to change my new GPU-s, I saw that my motherboard monoblock has some kind of shatters on it.
Please check pictures, and let me know if I should immediately buy new monoblock and change this one, or this is still fine condition ?

This probably happened at the time I was trying to move my pc and I dropped it on the table (dropped it from horizontal to vertical position on table)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> While I was trying to change my new GPU-s, I saw that my motherboard monoblock has some kind of shatters on it.
> Please check pictures, and let me know if I should immediately buy new monoblock and change this one, or this is still fine condition ?
> 
> This probably happened at the time I was trying to move my pc and I dropped it on the table (dropped it from horizontal to vertical position on table)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Possibly from Overtightening the Fittings.

TCO


----------



## MegaTheJohny

should I replace monoblock with the new one ?


----------



## galletabah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> should I replace monoblock with the new one ?


If no leak...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> should I replace monoblock with the new one ?


Like the person said... if It isn't broken....

TCO


----------



## VSG

Keep an eye on it, those micro-fractures appear to be on the top itself and not penetrated to the layer in contact with the coolant.


----------



## AllGamer

it looks like the type that shows up after you over tighten the fittings
as long as it's not leaking leave them be.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Reseller, it seems to only be one fan and I'm glad it isn't the fan I modded to clear the fitting on my mosfet block.
> 
> EDIT: Do the fan blades come off the hub so I can see if there is something causing the noise and or for paint?


Start an RMA with your reseller and you'll get a new fan.









It can be dismantled. You need to remove the sticker on the back, then you'll see a small rubber plug that you need to remove. Then, you need to remove the tiny little c-clip with a small tool like a precision screwdriver. Once done, you'll be able to pop the blade out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Do we have a release date for the gainward phoenix 1080 waterblock? Says coming doon under configurator.


Around mid-August.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> @akira749 or someone else could help me.
> I have EK D5 PWM pump, and I am trying to flush my loop for the first time. (I want to change my old coolant).
> So my problem is that I can't get my top rad to fill up with new fluid. Just like pump has not enough power to push fluid up to the top rad.
> I am using Phobya power supply with one molex (100-240V AC). If I put my hand on the pump I can feel little vibration, so the pump is working for sure,but not powerful enough.Maybe my Phobya molex power supply is not enough ?
> 
> Can I connect ED D5 pump to my secondary working PC via molex, just to fill the loop?
> plz help tnx


Does your D5 have an EK logo on the back sticker?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> While I was trying to change my new GPU-s, I saw that my motherboard monoblock has some kind of shatters on it.
> Please check pictures, and let me know if I should immediately buy new monoblock and change this one, or this is still fine condition ?
> 
> This probably happened at the time I was trying to move my pc and I dropped it on the table (dropped it from horizontal to vertical position on table)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Like the others said, continue to take a look at it to see if it leaks. If it starts to leak, don't buy another monoblock, simply open a ticket on our website and we will sell you a replacement top instead.


----------



## Reaper28

Random Vardar question, is anybody using them as an intake on something restrictive other than a rad?. I'm impressed with them on my rads and considering replacing my NF-F12's in my R4 server (bearing noise bothers me) and wonder if they'd perform better or equal


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Random Vardar question, is anybody using them as an intake on something restrictive other than a rad?. I'm impressed with them on my rads and considering replacing my NF-F12's in my R4 server (bearing noise bothers me) and wonder if they'd perform better or equal


Any reason you want to replace the NF-F12's on your server? Vardars are technically slightly better, but its hardly worth the up(side?)grade imo, unless your NF-F12's aren't functioning properly or the color is bothering you.


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laxboimike*
> 
> I just did the F1 Fans.... Went for the silence lol


What coolant is this, and is it UV reactive?


----------



## laxboimike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> What coolant is this, and is it UV reactive?


It's EK Pastel Green coolant and no it's not... I just have the Aqua computer LEDs on blue lol


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> No news for waterblocks for Asus Rampage V Edition 10 ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Probably release at the end of the week


Not much hope for this week








Bizarre whatsoever so long for these waterblock


----------



## Kamikaze-X

Ok so probably stupid question but I've googled and can't find the answer- I've got an EK-FC 1080 on my 1070 (yeah yeah, i know, they didn't have the 1070 one in copper plexi) and it says you can use 2x 3mm LED in the top.

Where are the holes located? I have the card in my machine at the moment so can't really take it apart to look and the instructions enclosed make no mention of the location of the LED slots.


----------



## Kamikaze-X

Oh and here's my build - I think the card would look great lit up with super bright white LEDs


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kamikaze-X*
> 
> Oh and here's my build - I think the card would look great lit up with super bright white LEDs


You could drill your own LED holes in to the block to achieve this, just don't go mad and take it easy.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kamikaze-X*
> 
> Ok so probably stupid question but I've googled and can't find the answer- I've got an EK-FC 1080 on my 1070 (yeah yeah, i know, they didn't have the 1070 one in copper plexi) and it says you can use 2x 3mm LED in the top.
> 
> Where are the holes located? I have the card in my machine at the moment so can't really take it apart to look and the instructions enclosed make no mention of the location of the LED slots.


Pretty sure the Led holes are going to be by the motherboard (PCIE Slot location) AKA backside of the card the way you have it inserted, as to hide the led cables.



Do you see them? Right by the PCI connector

TCO


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Not much hope for this week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bizarre whatsoever so long for these waterblock


It's not the end of the week so there's still hope









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kamikaze-X*
> 
> Ok so probably stupid question but I've googled and can't find the answer- I've got an EK-FC 1080 on my 1070 (yeah yeah, i know, they didn't have the 1070 one in copper plexi) and it says you can use 2x 3mm LED in the top.
> 
> Where are the holes located? I have the card in my machine at the moment so can't really take it apart to look and the instructions enclosed make no mention of the location of the LED slots.


It's located at the bottom of the block.

I marked them on the picture below.


----------



## AllGamer

Does this looks OK for the air flow?

it has a little bit more exhaust than intake, that will probably create a negative pressure.

All those will run EK P radiators, two D5 pump on separate stages, and dual reservoir for the window, making the cyclone effect, and counter cyclone effect on the 2nd reservoir

The alternative tube run, I planned was for each pump to drive (suck coolant) from each reservoir.
Also was planning to have the water go in two phases, as the water that comes out from the CPU+ VRM will already be hot, I want it to go through the a set radiators, before it goes to the GPUs, then the water coming out of the GPUs will go yet through another set of radiators, before going back to the reservoirs.

I'll have to play around a bit with the tubing before to have them all line up nicely, the picture was just a rough idea, please ignore the sketched tube runs









I'm more concerned about a proper air flow,
as I don't want too much hot air trapped inside the case, having more exhaust fans pulling air out should keep that from happening.



Code:



Code:


Mercury S8 - Customizable
Case Color:     Black 8-9 weeks for processing
Form Factor:    SSI EEB ($10.00)
Top Chassis Mount:      Drop-in 120.3 x 2 mount ($20.00)
Top Cover:      Ventilated
Left Door:      Standard Window with Ventilation (adds $20.00)
Right Door :    XL Window (adds $20.00)
Front Cover:    Window (This option will delete the 120.2 mount...
Flex-Bay Configuration: 120.2 Mount with Ventilated Bay Covers ($24.00)
Lower Left Chamber Configuration:       120.3 (360) Side Mount
Power and Reset Switch: Standard Power/Reset Switches with Sleeved Cables
I/O Panel:      USB 3.0/HD Audio ($25.00)

A related question, that brings the Total cooling are surface to 1440mm, is that good enough to keep the temperature down to *Room temperature* when the VRM+CPU+dual GPU are in full use in game?
My idea of "room temperature" is around 30C / 86F

My main goal is for a quiet rig, I don't care much about OC-ing, I only OC for bench tests, but under normal gaming uses, I usually run it on stock.


----------



## Kutalion

Hardly any conventional system can keep it that low. Also depends on the fans and their speed. You can expect probably 40-50c during gaming depending on those factors and your room ambient and if you're ocing or not.


----------



## Kamikaze-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Pretty sure the Led holes are going to be by the motherboard (PCIE Slot location) AKA backside of the card the way you have it inserted, as to hide the led cables.
> 
> Do you see them? Right by the PCI connector
> 
> TCO


Cheers, yeah I thought they might be there. If thats the case I *might* be able to fit one in there without much hassle.


----------



## Kamikaze-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's not the end of the week so there's still hope
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's located at the bottom of the block.
> 
> I marked them on the picture below.


thanks for confirming Akira!


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Wrong thread


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Does this looks OK for the air flow?
> 
> it has a little bit more exhaust than intake, that will probably create a negative pressure.
> 
> All those will run EK P radiators, two D5 pump on separate stages, and dual reservoir for the window, making the cyclone effect, and counter cyclone effect on the 2nd reservoir
> 
> The alternative tube run, I planned was for each pump to drive (suck coolant) from each reservoir.
> Also was planning to have the water go in two phases, as the water that comes out from the CPU+ VRM will already be hot, I want it to go through the a set radiators, before it goes to the GPUs, then the water coming out of the GPUs will go yet through another set of radiators, before going back to the reservoirs.
> 
> I'll have to play around a bit with the tubing before to have them all line up nicely, the picture was just a rough idea, please ignore the sketched tube runs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm more concerned about a proper air flow,
> as I don't want too much hot air trapped inside the case, having more exhaust fans pulling air out should keep that from happening.
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> Mercury S8 - Customizable
> Case Color:     Black 8-9 weeks for processing
> Form Factor:    SSI EEB ($10.00)
> Top Chassis Mount:      Drop-in 120.3 x 2 mount ($20.00)
> Top Cover:      Ventilated
> Left Door:      Standard Window with Ventilation (adds $20.00)
> Right Door :    XL Window (adds $20.00)
> Front Cover:    Window (This option will delete the 120.2 mount...
> Flex-Bay Configuration: 120.2 Mount with Ventilated Bay Covers ($24.00)
> Lower Left Chamber Configuration:       120.3 (360) Side Mount
> Power and Reset Switch: Standard Power/Reset Switches with Sleeved Cables
> I/O Panel:      USB 3.0/HD Audio ($25.00)
> 
> A related question, that brings the Total cooling are surface to 1440mm, is that good enough to keep the temperature down to *Room temperature* when the VRM+CPU+dual GPU are in full use in game?
> My idea of "room temperature" is around 30C / 86F
> 
> My main goal is for a quiet rig, I don't care much about OC-ing, I only OC for bench tests, but under normal gaming uses, I usually run it on stock.


You can only dream of room temps,a good 360mm rad cools 400-450w when it's P/P @ 1850 and drops to 170-190w when it's @ 750rpm wich is silent.So unless you want a loud system I dont think it's gonna happen.

I started with swiftech h320x2 cooling 6700k and 980ti it worked but temps were crap, added 280 rad got a bit better temps but still not satisfied.

Then i moved to 360+240 ex xtx got a bit better temps, still not satisfied now im sitting here assembling my final try to see if this watercooling has a point ot not with corsair 900D + 2x480 + 240 rad, if things wont drastically improve im going back to air. It's not that i have crappy fans but even gentle typhoons over 1krpm are annoyingly loud.

Hell my 6700k does 4800mhz on a 50 dollar cooler while being quiet + my gainward phoenix 1080 under full load is barely audible, im beginning to question the point of watercooling unless you run sli or even more cards or those high end cpus.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Does this looks OK for the air flow?
> 
> it has a little bit more exhaust than intake, that will probably create a negative pressure.
> 
> All those will run EK P radiators, two D5 pump on separate stages, and dual reservoir for the window, making the cyclone effect, and counter cyclone effect on the 2nd reservoir
> 
> The alternative tube run, I planned was for each pump to drive (suck coolant) from each reservoir.
> Also was planning to have the water go in two phases, as the water that comes out from the CPU+ VRM will already be hot, I want it to go through the a set radiators, before it goes to the GPUs, then the water coming out of the GPUs will go yet through another set of radiators, before going back to the reservoirs.
> 
> I'll have to play around a bit with the tubing before to have them all line up nicely, the picture was just a rough idea, please ignore the sketched tube runs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm more concerned about a proper air flow,
> as I don't want too much hot air trapped inside the case, having more exhaust fans pulling air out should keep that from happening.
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> Mercury S8 - Customizable
> Case Color:     Black 8-9 weeks for processing
> Form Factor:    SSI EEB ($10.00)
> Top Chassis Mount:      Drop-in 120.3 x 2 mount ($20.00)
> Top Cover:      Ventilated
> Left Door:      Standard Window with Ventilation (adds $20.00)
> Right Door :    XL Window (adds $20.00)
> Front Cover:    Window (This option will delete the 120.2 mount...
> Flex-Bay Configuration: 120.2 Mount with Ventilated Bay Covers ($24.00)
> Lower Left Chamber Configuration:       120.3 (360) Side Mount
> Power and Reset Switch: Standard Power/Reset Switches with Sleeved Cables
> I/O Panel:      USB 3.0/HD Audio ($25.00)
> 
> A related question, that brings the Total cooling are surface to 1440mm, is that good enough to keep the temperature down to *Room temperature* when the VRM+CPU+dual GPU are in full use in game?
> My idea of "room temperature" is around 30C / 86F
> 
> My main goal is for a quiet rig, I don't care much about OC-ing, I only OC for bench tests, but under normal gaming uses, I usually run it on stock.


For that case configuration i'd say your airflow is close to optimal. Only thing i'd change is running the rear 120mm rad as an intake since you have 6 fans exhausting out the top. Or you could just get rid of it and simplify your loop a little. An extra 120mm of rad won't help much.

Another option would be to run the front and rear as exhaust and tops as intake. That would give you more surface area getting fresh cool air. Only way to really find out would be to test it.

I have 1320mm of rad in my s8, so pretty close to you. Difference is i have windowed/vented right/left doors and vented front allowing me to run all rads as intakes. 1100rpm on my Vardars nets me ~10c water delta at full gaming load on a heavily oc'd system with 5 components in the loop. I draw ~900-1000w from the wall. With the fans maxed at 2000rpm the water delta is ~6c. You can probably do a bit better than that since the altitude i live at reduces cooling efficiency a bit. Hope that helps.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> For that case configuration i'd say your airflow is close to optimal. *Only thing i'd change is running the rear 120mm rad as an intake since you have 6 fans exhausting out the top*. Or you could just get rid of it and simplify your loop a little. An extra 120mm of rad won't help much.
> 
> *Another option would be to run the front and rear as exhaust and tops as intake.That would give you more surface area getting fresh cool air.* Only way to really find out would be to test it.
> 
> *I have 1320mm of rad in my s8, so pretty close to you. Difference is i have windowed/vented right/left doors and vented front allowing me to run all rads as intakes*. 1100rpm on my Vardars nets me ~10c water delta at full gaming load on a heavily oc'd system with 5 components in the loop. I draw ~900-1000w from the wall. With the fans maxed at 2000rpm the water delta is ~6c. You can probably do a bit better than that since the altitude i live at reduces cooling efficiency a bit. Hope that helps.


Thank you Thank you Thank you!
Great feedback.

I actually did plan originally to have the 6 fans on the top as intake, for massive cool air, then have everything else as Exhaust., but I was unsure if the air flow as going to work well, since is going counter "nature" of the heat flow, basically the air is going top to bottom, instead of the natural bottom to top.

I guess, I'll actually have to test the different setups, to see which one works best.

Worse case scenario, I'll have to order the extra Pedestal for 2 extra 360mm, bringing total surface area to 2160mm, but aesthetically, I like the default S8 design, beautiful looking, adding the Pedestal kind of disrupt the aesthetic of it.

Since you say you also have an S8...
*Is it possible to install a 240mm RAD in the Bottom Right space (next to the PSU)?*

If that is possible, I'd rather do that instead of having the 120mm Rad in the rear.
and order the right door to be window + vent

then I'll use all 3 sides as intake for flesh air (720mm top + 360mm left + 240mm right), and have the 2 fans + PSU fan + front 240mm as Exhaust.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> You can only dream of room temps,a good 360mm rad cools 400-450w when it's P/P @ 1850 and drops to 170-190w when it's @ 750rpm wich is silent.So unless you want a loud system I dont think it's gonna happen.
> 
> I started with swiftech h320x2 cooling 6700k and 980ti it worked but temps were crap, added 280 rad got a bit better temps but still not satisfied.
> 
> Then i moved to 360+240 ex xtx got a bit better temps, still not satisfied now im sitting here assembling my final try to see if this watercooling has a point ot not with corsair 900D + 2x480 + 240 rad, if things wont drastically improve im going back to air. It's not that i have crappy fans but even gentle typhoons over 1krpm are annoyingly loud.
> 
> Hell my 6700k does 4800mhz on a 50 dollar cooler while being quiet + my gainward phoenix 1080 under full load is barely audible, im beginning to question the point of watercooling unless you run sli or even more cards or those high end cpus.


I can deal with fans running at 1800 +/- rpm those I can deal with, I sort of consider them as "quiet" I know it's not true quiet, but it's quiet enough, compared to fans that runs at like 2000 rpm or 2500 rpm or even higher rpms, those are like turbines, those are loud.

Most 1800 rpm fans runs @ around 23 dBA average, so it's not to loud as it fades into the background when the music and game or movie is running.

but the higher rpm fans, those are so loud, you can still hear them during game play or movies.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Hardly any conventional system can keep it that low. Also depends on the fans and their speed. You can expect probably 40-50c during gaming depending on those factors and your room ambient and if you're ocing or not.


I know room temperature is kind of wishful thinking








for true room temperature cooling I'll need to probably get a Koolance Chiller, but that thing is super loud, no way I'm getting that monster that weight more than the PC rig itself.

Actually, If we I were to go that far, I might as well get a quiet portable AC and hook up the water loop as part of the AC








by that i mean feed all the cold air via duct directly to the intake fans of the case (Top)

That could possible work very well, now that I think about it.








hmm... time to check out some portable AC reviews


----------



## AllGamer

Bah!... scrap the portable AC idea, average they run at 50 dB... that's just as loud if not, even louder than the K Chiller.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Cant see how people manage to tolerate fans at such rpm, if. I can hear something its already to loud meaning everything needs to be sub 1k rpm.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Thank you Thank you Thank you!
> Great feedback.
> 
> I actually did plan originally to have the 6 fans on the top as intake, for massive cool air, then have everything else as Exhaust., but I was unsure if the air flow as going to work well, since is going counter "nature" of the heat flow, basically the air is going top to bottom, instead of the natural bottom to top.
> 
> I guess, I'll actually have to test the different setups, to see which one works best.
> 
> Worse case scenario, I'll have to order the extra Pedestal for 2 extra 360mm, bringing total surface area to 2160mm, but aesthetically, I like the default S8 design, beautiful looking, adding the Pedestal kind of disrupt the aesthetic of it.
> 
> Since you say you also have an S8...
> *Is it possible to install a 240mm RAD in the Bottom Right space (next to the PSU)?*
> 
> If that is possible, I'd rather do that instead of having the 120mm Rad in the rear.
> and order the right door to be window + vent
> 
> then I'll use all 3 sides as intake for flesh air (720mm top + 360mm left + 240mm right), and have the 2 fans + PSU fan + front 240mm as Exhaust.


there is no natural heatflow in that case with the number of fans you have. Regardless of your orientation those fans are going to dictate flow within the case. The other advantage of top as intake is positive vs negative pressure which is something to consider.

After staring at the s8 with a front mounted 240mm rad on my desk i'm going to go with no on a 240mm side mounted rad. You might be able to do it if you had a sff psu but not with a standard sized one such as the evga 1200 p2 that i use.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*


Isn't the right pump pretty much useless in that setup? If your going to have 2 pumps and 2 reservoirs you should make it dual loops, or ditch 1 res and run the pumps in series. If the left pump dies the right pump will do nothing for the loop just pumping back into the reservoirs.

EDIT: BTW, that hot and cold coloring means nothing because the temp will equalize across the loop within a degree or two.


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Isn't the right pump pretty much useless in that setup? If your going to have 2 pumps and 2 reservoirs you should make it dual loops, or ditch 1 res and run the pumps in series. If the left pump dies the right pump will do nothing for the loop just pumping back into the reservoirs.
> 
> EDIT: BTW, that hot and cold coloring means nothing because the temp will equalize across the loop within a degree or two.


Pumps in series have another benefit; increasing the head pressure, which means you can run the pumps slower (and therefore quieter) and still get decent flow.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> Pumps in series have another benefit; increasing the head pressure, which means you can run the pumps slower (and therefore quieter) and still get decent flow.


uhh, I like the sound of that









Thanks for the info
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Isn't the right pump pretty much useless in that setup? If your going to have 2 pumps and 2 reservoirs you should make it dual loops, or ditch 1 res and run the pumps in series. If the left pump dies the right pump will do nothing for the loop just pumping back into the reservoirs.
> 
> EDIT: BTW, that hot and cold coloring means nothing because the temp will equalize across the loop within a degree or two.


No prob, that sketch as mentioned, it's just a whole bunch of rough ideas I was brainstorming about.

Nothing is final, until all the parts gets here and I start working on the real deal.

I'm drawing all those sketches up to get a rough ideas how many fittings, L fittings, T fittings I'll need to order, also to figure out the amount of tubes I'll need,
...still debating if I want to go hard tube right off the bat, or stay with soft tubes, then switch to hard tube once everything is working the way I want.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> there is no natural heatflow in that case with the number of fans you have. Regardless of your orientation those fans are going to dictate flow within the case. The other advantage of top as intake is positive vs negative pressure which is something to consider.
> 
> After staring at the s8 with a front mounted 240mm rad on my desk i'm going to go with no on a 240mm side mounted rad. You might be able to do it if you had a sff psu but not with a standard sized one such as the evga 1200 p2 that i use.


Thanks again for the feedback, that helps me figure out what to order.

if the right side wont fit a 240mm, I'll put the two pumps there instead.

Seems like I'll have to go with a Pedestal after all.


----------



## MegaTheJohny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Does your D5 have an EK logo on the back sticker?


uhm I can't see it atm, cuz my pump has ek cover on it... I bought is maybe 1.5 years ago EK PWM D5... is there any other way I can check ?
Filling the loop was painful, so I have to turn of my pc system and connect pump on MBO, so pump can push fluid to top rad.
How should I do this ?


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's not the end of the week so there's still hope


Not for this week, it's getting long


----------



## 1Scotty1

Hey, @andrejEKWB

How is it looking with a monoblock and motherboard blocks for the ASUS Rampage V Extreme Edition 10?
Pre-ordered the motherboard and I want to put it "under water" immediately









Thanks


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Hey, @andrejEKWB
> 
> How is it looking with a monoblock and motherboard blocks for the ASUS Rampage V Extreme Edition 10?
> Pre-ordered the motherboard and I want to put it "under water" immediately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


posted just above


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> posted just above


Thanks, didn't know it was regarding that


----------



## Biggu

EK, Any response if the R5E10 mono block will keep the LEDS on the board or if those are built into the stock heat sinks?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> uhm I can't see it atm, cuz my pump has ek cover on it... I bought is maybe 1.5 years ago EK PWM D5... is there any other way I can check ?
> Filling the loop was painful, so I have to turn of my pc system and connect pump on MBO, so pump can push fluid to top rad.
> How should I do this ?


Since it's 1.5 year old, you definitely don't have the Gen 2 D5 pump (the one with the EK logo on the back







) the older gen pump had that kind of issues sometimes that there wasn't enough power at bleed/fill time. When I experienced the same issue you currently have, I had to put power on the motherboard and connect the pump to the board.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Not for this week, it's getting long


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Hey, @andrejEKWB
> 
> How is it looking with a monoblock and motherboard blocks for the ASUS Rampage V Extreme Edition 10?
> Pre-ordered the motherboard and I want to put it "under water" immediately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> EK, Any response if the R5E10 mono block will keep the LEDS on the board or if those are built into the stock heat sinks?


No releases to day guys sorry. I'm as sad as you're all right now. We might see something pop over the weekend or at the beginning of the week.

Since I haven't seen the blocks myself, I still don't know how it will interfere with the lighting of the board.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No releases to day guys sorry. I'm as sad as you're all right now. We might see something pop over the weekend or at the beginning of the week.
> 
> Since I haven't seen the blocks myself, I still don't know how it will interfere with the lighting of the board.


Thanks for the info, I dont mind waiting a few days, because the RVE10 wont be available here in Slovakia for a week or two still







I pre-ordered it though


----------



## tistou77

Thanks for the info, hoping that the WB will be available next week (which I order all that)


----------



## AllGamer

*EK-FC Bridge question*

I'm going for this motherboard GA-Z170X-Gaming G1

I'll be using Slot 1 and Slot 4 marked in Blue for two MSI GTX1080 EK in SLI,
there are 3 PCI slots in between marked in Yellow

Does that means I'll need to order the 4 slot *EK-FC Bridge QUAD Semi-Parallel CSQ* ?



If that's correct, then how do I go about plugin those middle holes?
does the package comes with the necessary plugs?


----------



## Ceadderman

You can get Terminal blanks for the inner two slots.









~Ceadder


----------



## Vindicare

that's similar to my Rampage V you need this one:

EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Serial

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-serial.

unless ofc you want room to expand to 4 card sli in the future ofc then the one you linked is the best i guess.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You can get Terminal blanks for the inner two slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thank you, found it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> that's similar to my Rampage V you need this one:
> 
> EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Serial
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-serial.
> 
> unless ofc you want room to expand to 4 card sli in the future ofc then the one you linked is the best i guess.


Thanks you

I get it now, we only count the long ones PCIe16, not the PCIe1 "fillers"


----------



## AllGamer

@akira749
I was happily adding items to into the shopping cart to order until I came across this issue...

*EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi (incl. pump)*
Expected date of availability: 26 July 2016
$ 119.99
_*No stock!*_









... any idea when more units might be coming in?

According to that small print quantity was supposed to be updated a few days ago

I'll need at least 2, possibly 4 (for 2 other loop projects I'm also working on)


----------



## Vindicare

have you tried to buy the pump and the top separate i think they have the parts!


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> have you tried to buy the pump and the top separate i think they have the parts!


I can wait, I don't need it in a hurry, since the Mercury S8 case I ordered will take a very looooooong time before it's ready for shipment, people that ordered before me, have already been waiting a few months already, so I don't expect to see it anytime soon







December if I'm lucky









I hope by then EK have restocked on the D5 pumps.


----------



## AllGamer

*EK-FC Bridge Parallel vs. Serial*

 vs. 

I can see the Pros and Cons of running the EK-FC Bridge in Parallel

Pros:
Lower temperature, as each video card gets fresh water

Cons:
Lower pressure and flow specially the card furthest to the inlet.

So, that makes be believe running EK-FC Bridge in Serial, is the reverse of that.

Pros:
Water pressure and flow is maintained

Cons:
Higher temperature for the 2nd card in series.

Is there any other Cons / Pros I'm missing from this?


----------



## Vindicare

for what i know, paralel is best, bigger flow and actually both cards get the same water flow.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Temps are usually negligible. Usually one or the other is chosen for aesthetics.

TCO


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> for what i know, paralel is best, bigger flow and actually both cards get the same water flow.


Thanks for the feedback.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Temps are usually negligible. Usually one or the other is chosen for aesthetics.


Well, If that's the case, then I'll just got for the Plexi in parallel, and yes mostly for aesthetic reason, i like the 2 color stripes in the plexi









EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Parallel CSQ Plexi
+
EK-FC Link BLANK Parallel CSQ


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback.
> Well, If that's the case, then I'll just got for the Plexi in parallel, and yes mostly for aesthetic reason, i like the 2 color stripes in the plexi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Parallel CSQ Plexi
> +
> EK-FC Link BLANK Parallel CSQ


Trust me. I Love the Original CSQ. Love it even better when it's polished











TCO


----------



## Vindicare

about parallel


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Trust me. I Love the Original CSQ. Love it even better when it's polished


yes, I like the clear plexi as well, but for the new kind the only have the frosted version.

I found some of the old versions with the 3 screws, instead of 1 screw, interesting they call the old type "Terminal" and the new type "Bridge"

Which brings me to the new question...

So I got 2 of these beauties, looking at the close up pictures, it shows they are using the 3 screws, which should match the old Terminal type.

*Does it matter at all if I use the CSQ Bridge type with 1 mount screw, or the old Terminal type with 3 mount screws?*


----------



## 0ldChicken

I always felt like the CSQ design looked like a protective film that should peel off to reveal something beautiful underneath.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> yes, I like the clear plexi as well, but for the new kind the only have the frosted version.
> 
> I found some of the old versions with the 3 screws, instead of 1 screw, interesting they call the old type "Terminal" and the new type "Bridge"
> 
> Which brings me to the new question...
> 
> So I got 2 of these beauties, looking at the close up pictures, it shows they are using the 3 screws, which should match the old Terminal type.
> 
> *Does it matter at all if I use the CSQ Bridge type with 1 mount screw, or the old Terminal type with 3 mount screws?*


Want one of these cards soo bad, just need to get up $730 to get one on open-box


----------



## Lays

Could anyone maybe identify my issue?

Previously I was running an EK Supremacy plexi/copper block, and a 1080MM Phobya radiator with a Acetal & Nickel EK universal GPU waterblock with a silver kill-coil in my reservoir.

I flushed out my system and put new distilled water in it, installed my new MSI EK Seahawk Gaming X card, plumbed all my tubing up and everything on Wednesday or Tuesday this week (Can't remember which day it was)

Anyways, on Thursday the block had already changed colors from Nickel to this weird copper-ish dirty color. I'm not sure what could be wrong?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lays*
> 
> Could anyone maybe identify my issue?
> 
> Previously I was running an EK Supremacy plexi/copper block, and a 1080MM Phobya radiator with a Acetal & Nickel EK universal GPU waterblock with a silver kill-coil in my reservoir.
> 
> I flushed out my system and put new distilled water in it, installed my new MSI EK Seahawk Gaming X card, plumbed all my tubing up and everything on Wednesday or Tuesday this week (Can't remember which day it was)
> 
> Anyways, on Thursday the block had already changed colors from Nickel to this weird copper-ish dirty color. I'm not sure what could be wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It seems there could be a plating issue since someone else on here has their nickel changing colour too?


----------



## Lays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> It seems there could be a plating issue since someone else on here has their nickel changing colour too?


:'(
Lame, I hope I don't have to RMA or something, I love my 1080


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lays*
> 
> :'(
> Lame, I hope I don't have to RMA or something, I love my 1080


Since you're here check this


----------



## Lays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Since you're here check this


1.6v 4.9 ghz pls that poor CPU

how you been buddy?

I did a crappy run last night to test 1080 on Valley to see how it performs, 980 ti is still slightly faster in valley for whatever reason.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lays*
> 
> 1.6v 4.9 ghz pls that poor CPU
> 
> how you been buddy?
> 
> I did a crappy run last night to test 1080 on Valley to see how it performs, 980 ti is still slightly faster in valley for whatever reason.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Meh been better, money issues, still banned from LTT too lol.


----------



## Lays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Meh been better, money issues, still banned from LTT too lol.


Did you tell somebody off?

I have to restrain myself everyday there, the amount of sheep that just repost something they saw someone else say is ridiculous


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lays*
> 
> Did you tell somebody off?
> 
> I have to restrain myself everyday there, the amount of sheep that just repost something they saw someone else say is ridiculous


Someone was flat out being daft I had my input with my british sarcasm and GodlyGamer aka zombie mod banned me without a message due to previous infractions including a ban which was from doing something a mod said I could do....


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lays*
> 
> Could anyone maybe identify my issue?
> 
> Previously I was running an EK Supremacy plexi/copper block, and a 1080MM Phobya radiator with a Acetal & Nickel EK universal GPU waterblock with a silver kill-coil in my reservoir.
> 
> I flushed out my system and put new distilled water in it, installed my new MSI EK Seahawk Gaming X card, plumbed all my tubing up and everything on Wednesday or Tuesday this week (Can't remember which day it was)
> 
> Anyways, on Thursday the block had already changed colors from Nickel to this weird copper-ish dirty color. I'm not sure what could be wrong?


I wouldn't think it would happen that fast but using silver and nickel together is asking for corrosion issues. I believe it's supposed to eat the plating, or at least pit/flake it
edit: this must be the ltt page


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I wouldn't think it would happen that fast but using silver and nickel together is asking for corrosion issues. I believe it's supposed to eat the plating, or at least pit/flake it
> edit: this must be the ltt page


I think it reacts with the copper underneath so causes the flaking but I'm not 100% on that.


----------



## Lays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I wouldn't think it would happen that fast but using silver and nickel together is asking for corrosion issues. I believe it's supposed to eat the plating, or at least pit/flake it
> edit: this must be the ltt page


So the only solution would be to re-fill the loop, get anti corrosive of some sort and a biocide and get rid of the kill coil?

Is there any way I can clean the block out without taking it apart? I wouldn't be surprised if that voids the 1080's warranty as well, since it's a factory installed block.

EDIT:

So my old nickel acetal universal GPU block is fine on the inside.. And I'm using the SAME loop.


----------



## Vindicare

use a good premix like EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR


----------



## tistou77

Waterblock Monoblock for Rampage V Edition 10 avalaible this monday

Waiting for Full Board


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> about parallel
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Actually not to bad of a video from Jay (Didn't think I would ever say that)

Informative and to the point. Like they should be.

TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> about parallel
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually not to bad of a video from Jay (Didn't think I would ever say that)
> 
> Informative and to the point. Like they should be.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while . . . . .

D.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lmao


----------



## fbmowner

I am about to put together a full EK loop, but I am seeing what some people in the forums have to say about what I chose or I am waiting to hear from someone that I forgot something! I mean the EK kit someone has suggested is a great price vs the $500 I am getting ready to spend, although my choices increase my price a good amount based on the D5 pump I picked, and the fittings. Feel free to point me in another direction if I am going down the wrong path! I envy you all! =P


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lays*
> 
> So my old nickel acetal universal GPU block is fine on the inside.. And I'm using the SAME loop.


damn, that's not good. @Benjiw who else was having issues with this? I can't find anything in seahawk club/ek club or wc club


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while . . . . .
> 
> D.


I love when you talk Dirty to me Diva









TCO


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> yes, I like the clear plexi as well, but for the new kind the only have the frosted version.
> 
> I found some of the old versions with the 3 screws, instead of 1 screw, interesting they call the old type "Terminal" and the new type "Bridge"
> 
> Which brings me to the new question...
> 
> So I got 2 of these beauties, looking at the close up pictures, it shows they are using the 3 screws, which should match the old Terminal type.
> 
> *Does it matter at all if I use the CSQ Bridge type with 1 mount screw, or the old Terminal type with 3 mount screws?*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


First, the old type the is the "EK-FC Bridge" and the new one is the "EK-FC Terminal".

Second, you can't mix and match them. The EK-FC Bridge (the ones with all the circles on it) can ONLY be used with the blocks that have the Original CSQ look (the ones with all the circles on it). Since you're going with GPU blocks from the 10x0 series, you'll be using on the EK-FC Terminal type of connectors.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fbmowner*
> 
> I am about to put together a full EK loop, but I am seeing what some people in the forums have to say about what I chose or I am waiting to hear from someone that I forgot something! I mean the EK kit someone has suggested is a great price vs the $500 I am getting ready to spend, although my choices increase my price a good amount based on the D5 pump I picked, and the fittings. Feel free to point me in another direction if I am going down the wrong path! I envy you all! =P


Need more info.

What all components are you cooling?

What case are you using?

What are you primarily looking to achieve through water cooling?

What's your target budget?


----------



## fbmowner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Need more info.
> 
> What all components are you cooling?
> 
> What case are you using?
> 
> What are you primarily looking to achieve through water cooling?
> 
> What's your target budget?


I meant to include a link to the thread I had going, sorry about that. http://www.overclock.net/t/1607322/getting-ready-to-purchase-everything-for-my-first-loop-what-am-i-missing

CPU Loop only
NZXT H440
Better temps on overclocking
So far I am up to $500 on the components that I have picked out.


----------



## DarthBaggins

So seeing the plating coming off on a MSI 1080 is making me rethink my plans on purchasing one, might go another route instead like an EVGA 1080 and buy a block


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> First, the old type the is the "EK-FC Bridge" and the new one is the "EK-FC Terminal".
> 
> Second, you can't mix and match them. The EK-FC Bridge (the ones with all the circles on it) can ONLY be used with the blocks that have the Original CSQ look (the ones with all the circles on it). Since you're going with GPU blocks from the 10x0 series, you'll be using on the EK-FC Terminal type of connectors.


Thanks akira749

That's good to know, because I was rather confused still about which one to buy.

Well now it's settled, the Terminal type it is


----------



## looniam

first time so i got the P280 kit.:


Spoiler: stuff






Spoiler: result!










if anyone could let me know (which is after the fact since i was anxious to get the rig up and going):

it seemed everything was set for intel 115x w/supremacy EVO block so i needed to do nothing for my sandy, right?

any reason i would want to swap either of the two (j2 j3) jet plates? - just saw j1 is in the block but maybe need to use j2 for 115x.

and yeah where do the LEDs go? and power from what? that bad to run fans push? sticking the rad on top with fans pushing up seemed the best option for that $60 case that got hammer and drilled a little . . . .









all in all for running ~6 hours and seeing temps on the highest core 74c other three ~71c @ 4.9Ghz/1.458v using aida extreme stability test (cpu, fpu cache) pretty happy but would like to do it better if needed

thanks.


----------



## bp7178

Just a couple of EK parts here...


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Makes me happy I didn't pick up the MSI EK Seahawk... I thought the nickel plating process was changed so that it was pretty resistant to silver now.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Makes me happy I didn't pick up the MSI EK Seahawk... I thought the nickel plating process was changed so that it was pretty resistant to silver now.


it should be safe if you don't mix silver into the water

Does Biocite includes silver in there?


----------



## AllGamer

Is that an EK 250 reservoir there next to the 480mm Rad/Fans ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bp7178*
> 
> Just a couple of EK parts here...


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lays*
> 
> :'(
> Lame, I hope I don't have to RMA or something, I love my 1080


The card will work just fine, if you don't like to see the copper color, then just add some color into your water, Pastel color will hide it completely.


----------



## bp7178

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Is that an EK 250 reservoir there next to the 480mm Rad/Fans ?


Well, it's a EK pump/res combo with the 200 something mm res on it which replaced the shorter one that came w the unit. EK 480 x60 with 4x 120 vardar-er fans.


----------



## Ceadderman

Silver by itself shouldn't tarnish flake or break down Nickel plating. it's when you ADD a biocide that it will do that iirc. Biocides like PTNuke. I'm not saying that it won't but it really shouldn't.









~Ceadder


----------



## Lays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Silver by itself shouldn't tarnish flake or break down Nickel plating. it's when you ADD a biocide that it will do that iirc. Biocides like PTNuke. I'm not saying that it won't but it really shouldn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Weird. Literally all that's in the loop, and all that's ever been in the loop, is distilled water with a silver kill coil.

It makes no sense to me at least, that the plating would come off in like 24 hours, especially if my previous block was nickel plated and it looks fine


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> it should be safe if you don't mix silver into the water
> 
> Does Biocite includes silver in there?


I would be returning this because if the plating is done correctly then it should not flake or discolor especially in 24 hours.. Another bad plating job and that is the reason i will mot use nickle plated blocks in my rigs!!!!!


----------



## Lays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I would be returning this because if the plating is done correctly then it should not flake or discolor especially in 24 hours.. Another bad plating job and that is the reason i will mot use nickle plated blocks in my rigs!!!!!


It shouldn't cause any actual problems right? If not, I may just drain the loop and get some colored coolant and run that instead. My loop is all external so if I ever have to do maintenance it's not so bad.

I really don't want to go a few weeks without a GPU, I already had to wait ages to get this thing. I have a really busy schedule so when I get home I just want to relax and play some games or overclock and benchmark.









I mean I really am upset that the plating came off almost instantly, especially with fresh distilled water, not the old stuff that was in the loop beforehand. But if it's not going to cause issues I may just deal with it and get colored coolant to cover it up.


----------



## AllGamer

Hey guys, is this dual pump setup an EK part?


*ShockWave - S8 and Pedestal by BazG*


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Hey guys, is this dual pump setup an EK part?
> 
> 
> *ShockWave - S8 and Pedestal by BazG*


It looks like a Bitspower dual D5 top.

Edit: After reading the Builders cooling components list, it is a Bitspower G 1/4 Thread Dual D5 Mod Top - Acrylic Version


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bp7178*
> 
> Just a couple of EK parts here...


Did you use a Dremel on the side of that EVGA HB bridge?


----------



## bp7178

Nope. It fit just as it comes from EVGA. No mods necessary.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lays*
> 
> It shouldn't cause any actual problems right? If not, I may just drain the loop and get some colored coolant and run that instead. My loop is all external so if I ever have to do maintenance it's not so bad.
> 
> I really don't want to go a few weeks without a GPU, I already had to wait ages to get this thing. I have a really busy schedule so when I get home I just want to relax and play some games or overclock and benchmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean I really am upset that the plating came off almost instantly, especially with fresh distilled water, not the old stuff that was in the loop beforehand. But if it's not going to cause issues I may just deal with it and get colored coolant to cover it up.


If you have bare copper now it will cool better, i would flush the loop a few times to get anything that maybe in it out!


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> If you have bare copper now it will cool better, i would flush the loop a few times to get anything that maybe in it out!


Nickel and Copper wouldn't be a drastic night and day difference i don't think.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> If you have bare copper now it will cool better, i would flush the loop a few times to get anything that maybe in it out!
> 
> 
> 
> Nickel and Copper wouldn't be a drastic night and day difference i don't think.
Click to expand...

Pretty sure every water block manufacturer claims nickel plated copper has the exact same cooling performance as bare copper, only you don't have to worry about the tarnish.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> Nickel and Copper wouldn't be a drastic night and day difference i don't think.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Pretty sure every water block manufacturer claims nickel plated copper has the exact same cooling performance as bare copper, only you don't have to worry about the tarnish.


There is a differance but it is so small you really would not ever see it


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bp7178*
> 
> Nope. It fit just as it comes from EVGA. No mods necessary.


Well, what do ya know...I didn't even bother to try. It seemed like it would bump up against the block. I am not ashamed to admit I was wrong.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

I've never been a huge fan of nickel, but it seems like all the manufacturers are churning out nickel nowadays. I think Kryographics did it really well with their smoked black + nickel water block for the 10X0. Looks super sexy.

Otherwise, I'm a fan of copper.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> There is a differance but it is so small you really would not ever see it


Then why mention it lol? The nickel plating is so thin I high doubt you would see 1c of a difference in performance.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bp7178*
> 
> Just a couple of EK parts here...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great looking build you have there! I love the all black build aesthetic. That's always the way I go with my builds, with a little nickel/plexi thrown in there. Love the way those Vardars look!

EDIT: Just found out about this little guy: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5923#kf

Any chance there will be a water block to accompany it? This would be perfect for my build-in-progress. Otherwise I'll have to stick with the 970.


----------



## TTheuns

Any ETA for the EVGA FTW 1080 blocks? Looking forward to seeing those on my doorstep.


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Any ETA for the EVGA FTW 1080 blocks? Looking forward to seeing those on my doorstep.


Think they have been pushed back to end of this month. Though it looks like shortage of the cards themselves is going be nearing end. OCUK said they were about clear there back orders


----------



## DarthBaggins

So far MC has been getting good constant stock on the 1080/1070's the past few weeks


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So far MC has been getting good constant stock on the 1080/1070's the past few weeks


The problem with MC is you pay tax so that offsets any convenience of buying it in person unless the buyer can care less.


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> The problem with MC is you pay tax so that offsets any convenience of buying it in person unless the buyer can care less.


Who is MC?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Who is MC?


Microcenter.

TCO


----------



## bp7178

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Well, what do ya know...I didn't even bother to try. It seemed like it would bump up against the block. I am not ashamed to admit I was wrong.


Its close, but it slides right on. There's no way the Nvidia HB bridge would fit w/o modification though.


----------



## greytoad

HI,

I've been lurking for years, and thought I'd get some advice. I just added the nickle plated full cover ek rx 480 reference block to my loop and I'm getting hot temps. Undervolted and running stock speeds I'm hitting 80 in Firestrike extreme. My VRMS are fine in the 35 to 40 degree range. I built the rig back in 2014. My delid 4790 is running 4.9GHz at 1.385 volts and is stable in prime95 small at around 79 or 80 degrees. I can run 5GHz on it at 1.45 volts, but it's not prime95 stable for more than a few hours and I'm not comfortable doing more than short term benching at that voltage. I'm using almost 200 watts on the processor at those settings. I hit 80 degrees on my newish rx 480 while only using about 107 watts in firestrike extreme. I have 3 rads and a D5 set to 5. Rads: Black Ice Nemesis 420GTS XFLOW , XS-PC AX360, and a Coolgate G2 "Puncture-proof" Dual 120mm. The rx 480 is using the EK-FC RX-480 - Nickel block. The cpu is using a raystorm. I had some plasticizer gunk in my raystorm and rads from some crappy xspc tubing I'd used. took the block apart and cleaned it with ketchup, and ran 10% vinager through the fittings and rads followed by some baking soda solution and then 10 1 gallon distilled water rinse/drain cycles to ensure the loop was clean. The tubing has been replaced. I'm running distilled with a silver coil. No additives or dyes. The temps and voltages I listed for me CPU are after the cleaning so I'm within a degree or two of when things were new. The first component after my pump is the videocard, and I got some POM bits from over tightening a fitting on my pump stuck in my block. Maybe three or four tiny pieces are in there. This is a possible culprit, but I had way worse in my raystorm previously and temps weren't this far off. I've heard of trouble getting gaskets back on ek full cover blocks and don't really want to ruin anything so I'm wary of cleaning the POM bits.

When I installed the block, I had to take it back off once and add tiny plastic washers to the back bracket screws because it was just a hair off. In doing so, the standoffs stayed with the card. I removed the standoffs from the card and replaced them on the block. When I tightened them, I didn't over torque them. I just turned them until they were tight. Maybe that's created extra distance between the block and the GPU?

I also used GELID GC-extreme on the GPU and applied it using the old school credit card method rather than the chickpea, or rice or EK's cross methods. Perhaps a crappy TIM application is to blame? I have some of EK's TIM I could try. I also have a couple of syringes of Cool Laboratory's Liquid Ultra. My other TIMS I have on hand are Noctua NH1, old school Arctic Silver 5, and XS-PC paste. advice?

Oh. One other question. I added a little gc-extreme to my thermal pads on my ram and VRMs. could that be causing extra distance between the gpu and the block? I wouldn't think so.

Any other ideas?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greytoad*
> 
> HI,
> 
> I've been lurking for years, and thought I'd get some advice. I just added the nickle plated full cover ek rx 480 reference block to my loop and I'm getting hot temps. Undervolted and running stock speeds I'm hitting 80 in Firestrike extreme. My VRMS are fine in the 35 to 40 degree range. I built the rig back in 2014. My delid 4790 is running 4.9GHz at 1.385 volts and is stable in prime95 small at around 79 or 80 degrees. I can run 5GHz on it at 1.45 volts, but it's not prime95 stable for more than a few hours and I'm not comfortable doing more than short term benching at that voltage. I'm using almost 200 watts on the processor at those settings. I hit 80 degrees on my newish rx 480 while only using about 107 watts in firestrike extreme. I have 3 rads and a D5 set to 5. Rads: Black Ice Nemesis 420GTS XFLOW , XS-PC AX360, and a Coolgate G2 "Puncture-proof" Dual 120mm. The rx 480 is using the EK-FC RX-480 - Nickel block. The cpu is using a raystorm. I had some plasticizer gunk in my raystorm and rads from some crappy xspc tubing I'd used. took the block apart and cleaned it with ketchup, and ran 10% vinager through the fittings and rads followed by some baking soda solution and then 10 1 gallon distilled water rinse/drain cycles to ensure the loop was clean. The tubing has been replaced. I'm running distilled with a silver coil. No additives or dyes. The temps and voltages I listed for me CPU are after the cleaning so I'm within a degree or two of when things were new. The first component after my pump is the videocard, and I got some POM bits from over tightening a fitting on my pump stuck in my block. Maybe three or four tiny pieces are in there. This is a possible culprit, but I had way worse in my raystorm previously and temps weren't this far off. I've heard of trouble getting gaskets back on ek full cover blocks and don't really want to ruin anything so I'm wary of cleaning the POM bits.
> 
> When I installed the block, I had to take it back off once and add tiny plastic washers to the back bracket screws because it was just a hair off. In doing so, the standoffs stayed with the card. I removed the standoffs from the card and replaced them on the block. When I tightened them, I didn't over torque them. I just turned them until they were tight. Maybe that's created extra distance between the block and the GPU?
> 
> I also used GELID GC-extreme on the GPU and applied it using the old school credit card method rather than the chickpea, or rice or EK's cross methods. Perhaps a crappy TIM application is to blame? I have some of EK's TIM I could try. I also have a couple of syringes of Cool Laboratory's Liquid Ultra. My other TIMS I have on hand are Noctua NH1, old school Arctic Silver 5, and XS-PC paste. advice?
> 
> Oh. One other question. I added a little gc-extreme to my thermal pads on my ram and VRMs. could that be causing extra distance between the gpu and the block? I wouldn't think so.
> 
> Any other ideas?


Reapply TIM 1st and foremost to see if the problem persists. Then report back.

TCO


----------



## greytoad

I'll try that tomorrow or Wed. My father's in the hospital and time is at a premium. I'll also try tightening the standoffs/screw holes that came off the card last time. They'll probably come off again. I'm leaning toward a liberal application of liquid ultra as there's normally only a 1 or 2 degree difference between liberal and just right on that, and it might make up the difference if there is too much distance. I'll tape around the GPU of course. I don't know. I might just use the EK paste in their recommended cross pattern. thoughts?

Edit: I've never used liquid ultra on a gpu before. I've only used on my CPU. Anything I should know?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greytoad*
> 
> I'll try that tomorrow or Wed. My father's in the hospital and time is at a premium. I'll also try tightening the standoffs/screw holes that came off the card last time. They'll probably come off again. I'm leaning toward a liberal application of liquid ultra as there's normally only a 1 or 2 degree difference between liberal and just right on that, and it might make up the difference if there is too much distance. I'll tape around the GPU of course. I don't know. I might just use the EK paste in their recommended cross pattern. thoughts?
> 
> Edit: I've never used liquid ultra on a gpu before. I've only used on my CPU. Anything I should know?


How about you just us the Ek Therm before you slap liquid ultra on there?

TCO


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Hi Crew,

Received a new EK-XTop Revo Clear Plexi D5 top today for a new build. The retention ring will NOT tighten the top to the pump. Only screws on 1.5 turns and then stops. That is not enough, as the pump is loose.

Dont want to force it. Out of ideas.

Sick of buying pieces, which are hard to get here in Australia and they dont work. I only have 4 more days left of holidays and my build has come to a grinding holt. ***.

Purchased 2 new 980GTX Nickel blocks (EK) as well. Both blocks needed the standoffs tightened, otherwise the block was not making contact with the memory and thermal pad. Sigh.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So seeing the plating coming off on a MSI 1080 is making me rethink my plans on purchasing one, might go another route instead like an EVGA 1080 and buy a block


Or jus
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Hi Crew,
> 
> Received a new EK-XTop Revo Clear Plexi D5 top today for a new build. The retention ring will NOT tighten the top to the pump. Only screws on 1.5 turns and then stops. That is not enough, as the pump is loose.
> 
> Dont want to force it. Out of ideas.
> 
> Sick of buying pieces, which are hard to get here in Australia and they dont work. I only have 4 more days left of holidays and my build has come to a grinding holt. ***.
> 
> Purchased 2 new 980GTX Nickel blocks (EK) as well. Both blocks needed the standoffs tightened, otherwise the block was not making contact with the memory and thermal pad. Sigh.


Easy fix, typical problem. They are an absolute PAIN to get on straight and correct from the first place.

Honestly, tighten it on and off a few times WITHOUT the pump to make sure the threads arent messed up. Youll see that unless you get it perfectly straight and catch the right threads it wont even screw on without the pump. Both my ek bay res and ek d5 140mm reservoir have the same issue.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Bluej511, thank you for your reply and help.

I have tried threading a number of times. Made sure to ensure that it was starting correctly. Just stops solid about half way. Cannot go any further and the pump is loose.

Sigh.


----------



## JunkStar

Hi Guys

First time poster and new to watercooling. I recently put a nice little EK rig together for myself for my old 2500k system. I absolutely love the EK stuff and im just waiting for the EK block for my EVGA 1080 FTW to come out so i can finish my system.

Currently my loop order is Pump w/ res -> 240Rad -> CPU -> 120Rad.

So i want to introduce my GPU block into this and im thinking of putting it right after the CPU since it would be the easiest but i have gone back and forth on it. But is there really any difference? The water temp after the CPU (before entering the 120Rad) only gets up 30c with ambient around 21-22c.

Also considering buying another 240rad to replace the 120rad at the bottom (not sure it will fit) and put the 120Rad at the back of the case and going Pump -> 240Rad -> CPU -> 120Rad -> GPU -> 240Rad.

Am i being a total idiot here or what .... ?









Br

JunkStar


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Bluej511, thank you for your reply and help.
> 
> I have tried threading a number of times. Made sure to ensure that it was starting correctly. Just stops solid about half way. Cannot go any further and the pump is loose.
> 
> Sigh.


Yup mine did the same and turns out when it looks straight its still not straight lol. It has to be so precise because it makes it water tight. Try it WITHOUT the pump thread it on and off. If it still stops half way then its a thread issue. If it doesnt then put some distilled water on the oring, push the pump in nice and flush then try again. Honestly it really is a PITA when its working properly. I must have tried for like 10mins to get it on right.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*
> 
> Hi Guys
> 
> First time poster and new to watercooling. I recently put a nice little EK rig together for myself for my old 2500k system. I absolutely love the EK stuff and im just waiting for the EK block for my EVGA 1080 FTW to come out so i can finish my system.
> 
> Currently my loop order is Pump w/ res -> 240Rad -> CPU -> 120Rad.
> 
> So i want to introduce my GPU block into this and im thinking of putting it right after the CPU since it would be the easiest but i have gone back and forth on it. But is there really any difference? The water temp after the CPU (before entering the 120Rad) only gets up 30c with ambient around 21-22c.
> 
> Also considering buying another 240rad to replace the 120rad at the bottom (not sure it will fit) and put the 120Rad at the back of the case and going Pump -> 240Rad -> CPU -> 120Rad -> GPU -> 240Rad.
> 
> Am i being a total idiot here or what .... ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Br
> 
> JunkStar


Wtv people tell you don't listen to em. THe more rad space you have the better, cooler, and quieter you can run a system. An 8°C delta for just a cpu is pretty decent, mine with a cpu AND gpu my water delta is about 6-7°C depending on the game. Im also measuring case temp and not ambient as they can vary by a few degrees. Dual 240mm would be perfect, adding the 120 to the back would be pretty pointless.

And the loop order doesnt matter, to a point. It depends on the case, the fans and how you have things set up. You might see like a 1°C difference between orders. THe way to do it is whatever way gives you a cleaner look if youre into that, or whatever way gives you less kinks and runs in the tubing.


----------



## JunkStar

Thanks for the quick reply. In regard to the 120 i know it dosnt add much but i will have it leftover when adding the new 240 so i might aswell add it back into the loop.

Now i will just have to wait for EK to come around and finish the EVGA 1080 FTW block


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Yup mine did the same and turns out when it looks straight its still not straight lol. It has to be so precise because it makes it water tight. Try it WITHOUT the pump thread it on and off. If it still stops half way then its a thread issue. If it doesnt then put some distilled water on the oring, push the pump in nice and flush then try again. Honestly it really is a PITA when its working properly. I must have tried for like 10mins to get it on right.


Hey mate, I tried and tried. Tightened up and now cannot get the ring off







it is stuck hard!! Lucky the pump was not on it. In the bin it goes. Waste of AUD$60


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Hey mate, I tried and tried. Tightened up and now cannot get the ring off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it is stuck hard!! Lucky the pump was not on it. In the bin it goes. Waste of AUD$60


My guess is either cross-threaded or just actually stuck. It was my first build and i ran into the same issue, threaded it with the pump on and off and would just get stuck barely after 1-1.5 turns. Finally i got it on correctly and been fine since.

Contact ek they have very very good customer service if its a manufacturing issue.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> How about you just us the Ek Therm before you slap liquid ultra on there?
> 
> TCO


I wouldn't wanna use any bring conductive on my gpu. Gpus are different than CPUs a lot more service area and easier to cool. To be safe remove thermal paste from the v ram pads it's not needed. Make sure you are making proper contact when mounting the block and just go with the star method that it tells you to do and it works perfectly


----------



## greytoad

I'm at the hospital with my father right now, but I will try those things either tonight or tomorrow. I spoke to EK support and they thought it was a flow problem caused by the alphacool fittings I used. i ordered some ek fittings and should have them by Friday (I hope). I don't know how it could be caused by the fittings when I'm getting what I expect for cpu temps but I'll give it a shot. thanks


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greytoad*
> 
> I'll try that tomorrow or Wed. My father's in the hospital and time is at a premium. I'll also try tightening the standoffs/screw holes that came off the card last time. They'll probably come off again. I'm leaning toward a liberal application of liquid ultra as there's normally only a 1 or 2 degree difference between liberal and just right on that, and it might make up the difference if there is too much distance. I'll tape around the GPU of course. I don't know. I might just use the EK paste in their recommended cross pattern. thoughts?
> 
> Edit: I've never used liquid ultra on a gpu before. I've only used on my CPU. Anything I should know?


Tape like you said. After you are done with the CLU application, gently apply some nail polish or dielectric grease to the area around the die. That way if any CLU does slip over, it has a lower probability of causing a short (which is already pretty unlikely if you didn't just poor liquid metal on your GPU). Also, make sure you trim back the application brush. The stock brush is too long and the bristles can spray CLU if you do abrupt motions (this is actually the biggest risk). I would cut them in half.

Liquid metal is only good for, at best, around a 5c improvement over normal TIMs (for GPUs). I have it on my 980 Ti Classy and saw a bigger difference because my stock TIM was not applied properly. The first time on air I saw about a 7c drop. But when I reapplied normal TIM out of curiosity, I saw a 5c drop vs the stock TIM. So not a big difference. I now have a waterblock with CLU. Only thing CLU really does is provide a more instant transfer of heat. Your core temp will cool down very quickly, which will help your average, somewhat.

So the argument of "it's not worth the risk" is valid. I did it because I could, I wanted to and I'll any reduction in temp I can get.


----------



## greytoad

I always trim the brush too. I have no idea why they don't send a brush with short bristles. I think I'll use the ek TIM first and then try the liquid ultra. It's about 5 degrees on my processor over gc extreme, but about the same as Noctua NH1. I had pump out after 3 months on the Noctua though. I wont use that again. The GC extreme doesn't seem to spread like the Noctua as it's a paste rather than a liquid. That's why I used the credit card method. it comes with a mini spatula like spreader.

Raystorm blocks can handle lower flow situations, so maybe EK is right and it's the fittings. They looked like the right depth and that they wouldn't block the holes, but It's also worth a try. If none of this works, I'll probably just grab a xspc blade for the 480 from performance pcs and see if ek will take their block back. a closeup picture of the block doesn't show any bits of POM anymore so maybe they moved to my Raystorm. I shut the pump off immediately when I saw the POM and drained the loop. Not many pieces made it to the block.


----------



## akira749

EK releases ASUS Rampage V Edition 10 Monoblock!

The Acetal version of this Monoblock and the 2-pieces kits will be available later in the month.


----------



## looniam

don't want to be a pest but would like to ask after installing a P280 kit:

any reason i would want to swap either of the two (j2 j3) jet plates?
that bad to run fans push? sticking the rad on top with fans pushing up seemed the best option for that $60 case that got hammer and drilled a little . . . .
seeing temps on the highest core 74c other three ~71c @ 4.9Ghz/1.458v using aida extreme stability test (cpu, fpu cache) pretty happy but would like to do it better if needed.


----------



## greytoad

The J2 jet plate is supposed to be the best for your processor right? Your getting great results as is though. Not sure I'd mess with something that's already got great results.

I do push on my top and pull on my front and push pull on the bottom. with just the top in push I seem to be fine on my 360.


----------



## looniam

that's what i thought about w/J2 plate. i read that later in the manual.

i am looking at swapping cpu/mobo with kabylake later but also grab a uniblock for a gpu before; so i will have an excuse to drain the system. and yeah kicking myself for walking out of microcenter w/o a drain - assuming they had one.

btw if noone has told you:

welcome to OCN!


----------



## greytoad

OCN has been an invaluable resource for me for years. Thanks for the welcome.


----------



## CeeeJaaay

Could someone do me a favor and measure the Supremacy Evo height? Possibly from the motherboard.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CeeeJaaay*
> 
> Could someone do me a favor and measure the Supremacy Evo height? Possibly from the motherboard.


Which one? The acetal and plexi top versions are taller than the metal top versions.


----------



## CeeeJaaay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Which one? The acetal and plexi top versions are taller than the metal top versions.


Sorry, I didn't know that. The plexi version!


----------



## looniam

plexi about 28mm or 1 1/8" from mobo


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases ASUS Rampage V Edition 10 Monoblock!
> 
> The Acetal version of this Monoblock and the 2-pieces kits will be available later in the month.


ahh! dammit, now I'm tempted to get the ASUS Rampage V Edition 10, just so I can use this elegant Monoblock!
















and the fact I'm a big ASUS fan, but lately, their motherboard features doesn't excite me anymore, instead Gigabyte seems to be coming out with really nice and exciting stuff, it's been a very long time since i last used a Gigabyte motherboard, as they were reliable, but boring in feature set, now the tables are turning around between Gigabyte vs. ASUS.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> plexi about 28mm or 1 1/8" from mobo


Thanks good reference info,
so we know if it's too tight, or too lose


----------



## CeeeJaaay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> plexi about 28mm or 1 1/8" from mobo


Cheers, planning a hardline tube loop and needed measurements to buy fittings.


----------



## surfinchina

Ordered cooling for my R9 Nano yesterday








I get bored with the same look for too long.
It means I can drop the video card down to the next slot.

While I was at it I ordered an Aquatube - I love that industrial look! The pump will drop down, Aquatube above it, that'll make the whole thing more spacious in the middle. Declutter...

The only worry is that a GPU in the system will overwhelm the watercooling.
I did a small test yesterday and took out a couple of fans - no push pull, and it made absoutely no difference under load with 1.2V on my 5960x.
Which means radiator size is the only relevant thing in my system.

Can anyone tell me offhand how much extra cooling I'll get moving from an SE120 to a PE120? 25 to 40mm thick.
Thanks!


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> My guess is either cross-threaded or just actually stuck. It was my first build and i ran into the same issue, threaded it with the pump on and off and would just get stuck barely after 1-1.5 turns. Finally i got it on correctly and been fine since.
> 
> Contact ek they have very very good customer service if its a manufacturing issue.


It could be mate. I was extremely careful when threading it for that reason. Being metal and plexi, I know to be careful. I took it slowly with both pump attached and removed. Gets half way and then just stops. Not tight enough to secure the pump, against the top.

Removed the pump finally, tried again a few times. Then I used a bit more force and it is stuck solid.

My guess is either the metal retention ring thread or the thread on the top, is just out of tolerance. Pity. I really wanted to use it in this rebuild in the new S8 case.

Will have to go back to Aquacomputer pump, top and probably reservoir now.

** Edit: I had another look at it today. The retention ring came off quite easily. Definitely not cross threaded. It is as if the threads on the retention ring stop, or as I mentioned above, just not quite correct. I sent an email to EKWB customer service, awaiting a reply.

Cheers


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> It could be mate. I was extremely careful when threading it for that reason. Being metal and plexi, I know to be careful. I took it slowly with both pump attached and removed. Gets half way and then just stops. Not tight enough to secure the pump, against the top.
> 
> Removed the pump finally, tried again a few times. Then I used a bit more force and it is stuck solid.
> 
> My guess is either the metal retention ring thread or the thread on the top, is just out of tolerance. Pity. I really wanted to use it in this rebuild in the new S8 case.
> 
> Will have to go back to Aquacomputer pump, top and probably reservoir now.
> 
> ** Edit: I had another look at it today. The retention ring came off quite easily. Definitely not cross threaded. It is as if the threads on the retention ring stop, or as I mentioned above, just not quite correct. I sent an email to EKWB customer service, awaiting a reply.
> 
> Cheers


Hope it gets sorted. The threads are MASSIVE so it def needs to be put in straight and true right off and even then might still be crooked a bit. It really took me quite a few tries to get it on and like yourself i got it stuck after a turn or so a few times. Being an auto tech i know not to force it so i tried it a few times without the pump to wear out the plexi threads to make sure it would go on easy with the pump and it did. Shame theres no easier way but even at full speed the thing is dead silent.


----------



## xarot

Hi guys,

Any tips on how to get the EK sticker nicely out of the Supremacy EVO to turn it around 90 degrees? It seems I am going to get scratches on the acetal top or end up with a bad-looking sticker.







Butter knife or something?

Also anyone know if there is enough space for two Koolance QD3 quick disconnect pairs for inlet and outlet?


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered cooling for my R9 Nano yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I get bored with the same look for too long.
> It means I can drop the video card down to the next slot.
> 
> While I was at it I ordered an Aquatube - I love that industrial look! The pump will drop down, Aquatube above it, that'll make the whole thing more spacious in the middle. Declutter...
> 
> The only worry is that a GPU in the system will overwhelm the watercooling.
> I did a small test yesterday and took out a couple of fans - no push pull, and it made absoutely no difference under load with 1.2V on my 5960x.
> Which means radiator size is the only relevant thing in my system.
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me offhand how much extra cooling I'll get moving from an SE120 to a PE120? 25 to 40mm thick.
> Thanks!


I don't think you'll see a huge difference in cooling capability from switching between those two rads. You're gaining 13mm, but losing fin density. I don't have any numbers to back up my estimation, but maybe a couple of degrees? I'm sure there are people more qualified who can chime in.


----------



## xxpantherrrxx

It's been awhile since I've been on this site but.

Yesterday I purchased a GTX 1070 FE, the store I was at only has a EK full cover plexi WB for the 1080 FE, now my understanding and according to EK's website they are interchangable and that the 1080 waterblock should fit my 1070 (physical fit not just visual). Can anyone from EK confirm that before I open it and the the back plate to install it?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpantherrrxx*
> 
> It's been awhile since I've been on this site but.
> 
> Yesterday I purchased a GTX 1070 FE, the store I was at only has a EK full cover plexi WB for the 1080 FE, now my understanding and according to EK's website they are interchangable and that the 1080 waterblock should fit my 1070 (physical fit not just visual). Can anyone from EK confirm that before I open it and the the back plate to install it?


I look at this out of boredom, only difference between the two is the 1080 ekwb has extra holes for capacitors, considering they're prety much identical cards i see no reasons why it wouldnt fit. You can even check eks website and just blow up both pictures with the pcb you can see they are IDENTICAL.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> I don't think you'll see a huge difference in cooling capability from switching between those two rads. You're gaining 13mm, but losing fin density. I don't have any numbers to back up my estimation, but maybe a couple of degrees? I'm sure there are people more qualified who can chime in.


Ill say this myself but fin density is pretty much overrated. Weve seen rads with super high fpi and they cool pretty much identical to ones with less fpi. Biggest reason is, you need fans with massive static pressure and higher speeds to compensate, then it makes a lot of noise.

From what ive researched, slim rads cool decent at best, jumping to anything over 35mm is a gain either way. But anything above a 45-50 u wont see much difference. Thats my opinion anyways.


----------



## xxpantherrrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> I look at this out of boredom, only difference between the two is the 1080 ekwb has extra holes for capacitors, considering they're prety much identical cards i see no reasons why it wouldnt fit. You can even check eks website and just blow up both pictures with the pcb you can see they are IDENTICAL.


I don't see any reason either, other WB manufacturers have 1 block for both 1070 and 1080. I wouldn't see any reason for EK to be really different other than engraving the name of the card. This is what EK's website says below:

Compatibility list for EK-FC1080 GTX - Nickel
Water block: EK-FC1080 GTX - Nickel

VGA FullCover Nvidia Nvidia GeForce GTX 1070 8GB GDDR5 physical
VGA FullCover Nvidia Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 8GB GDDR5X physical


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> *Any tips on how to get the EK sticker nicely out of the Supremacy EVO to turn it around 90 degrees?* It seems I am going to get scratches on the acetal top or end up with a bad-looking sticker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Butter knife or something?
> 
> Also anyone know if there is enough space for two Koolance QD3 quick disconnect pairs for inlet and outlet?


Use a Bic Lighter. Hold the Block Upside down so that the Logo is Close to the lighter. After..... 30 seconds you will see the plastic on the ek logo start to bubble.. Use edge of Knife ( I Own a Kershaw) to remove the logo. Allow to cool for 30 Seconds! It is very hot.

TCO


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Use a Bic Lighter. Hold the Block Upside down so that the Logo is Close to the lighter. After..... 30 seconds you will see the plastic on the ek logo start to bubble.. Use edge of Knife ( I Own a Kershaw) to remove the logo. Allow to cool for 30 Seconds! It is very hot.
> 
> TCO


If the plastic starts to bubble would it not look that nice once he rotates it?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> If the plastic starts to bubble would it not look that nice once he rotates it?


The Logo is Metal ( You would need a blow torch to bubble metal). When you purchase a new block, The Logo is covered with the Blue Sticker. That is what I am referring to.

TCO


----------



## fbmowner

Going nuts waiting for all my EK stuff to come in! Still has not shipped but hopefully it will be out by today and I pray I see it by the weekend, I need to unsubscribe from this thread until I get everything. Every time I get a notification from here I check my Order status, I must have refreshed that page 30 times so far today.


----------



## fisher6

@akira749 will the block for the new Titan X also ship to all resellers as usual (I'm in Norway) or will I only be able to order it from the EK store. Just double checking. Thanks


----------



## Silent Scone

Just tried to order Pascal TX block on the EK site. They've taken my money but the order wasn't even processed. Gateway error. I've contacted them via the ticket system









EDIT: Sites clearly borked as it's done this twice now. Thanks EK, plus you don't take paypal payments, only process via cards. So I don't see the point of saying you take PayPal.


----------



## emsj86

Heat gun or hair drier to remove ek logo. Takes skittle time and effort but pops off just fine.


----------



## AllGamer

Hey guys, I would like some feedback on the hard tubes vs. soft tubes.

I can see most of you are using hard tubes for your loops.

I'm was thinking of going with soft tubing 1/2 ID 3/4 OD in straight lines, using 90° fittings for the bends,

but then I realized, if I'm going to spend that kind of money on 90° fittings, I might as well go with hard tubes,

If the *1/2 ID 3/4 OD soft tubes* works just like hard tubes, perhaps I'll just stick with the soft tubes,
if they are stiff enough to keep the shape of the pipe work with the 90° fittings

I'll be using it along the quick release fittings to avoid having to drain / refill every time i need to swap some parts in / out of the loop.

If I do end up going for hard tubes, I'll probably pick up the PETG since that's what everyone is recommending.

On EK site I only see 2 sizes 12/16mm 500mm and 10/12mm 500mm for PETG tubes, ...
*is that the equivalent of compression soft tubes 12/16mm (7/16'' - 5/8'') and 10/13mm (3/8'' - 1/2'') sizes?*

*Are hard tubes compatible with Compression Quick Release fittings?* like the ones from Koolance,
you know the tube being hard and all, I don't see much room to uncouple 2 segments without affecting the rest of the loop.

How much bend are PETG tubes able to withstand before affecting other components or breaking? (from description PETG should be more flexible than Acrylic tubes)


----------



## nzphil

I just noticed the new Titan X blocks say "GeForce GTX Titian X" but I believe the new card is just "Nvidia Titian X". They have removed it from the 'gamer' category and are trying to market it as a prosumer card.

https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-announces-nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-x-pascal-water-blocks/

http://www.geforce.com/hardware/10series/titan-x-pascal


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> Just tried to order Pascal TX block on the EK site. They've taken my money but the order wasn't even processed. Gateway error. I've contacted them via the ticket system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Sites clearly borked as it's done this twice now. Thanks EK, plus you don't take paypal payments, only process via cards. So I don't see the point of saying you take PayPal.


i ordered mine and paid via paypal this morning without issue.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> @akira749 will the block for the new Titan X also ship to all resellers as usual (I'm in Norway) or will I only be able to order it from the EK store. Just double checking. Thanks


For now, the Titan X Pascal block will only be available on our webshop. The resellers will have the blocks only later in the summer unfortunately. And I have no ETA on the late summer date sorry.


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> i ordered mine and paid via paypal this morning without issue.


Everytime PayPal was selected it was asking me to add a card, when there was sufficient balance. Using card timed out with a gateway error and took the funds without processing the order.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> Everytime PayPal was selected it was asking me to add a card, when there was sufficient balance. Using card timed out with a gateway error and took the funds without processing the order.


weird, worked with 0 issues for me. I put the order in about 30 mins before you posted about the issue this morning.


----------



## AllGamer

Question:

Does 1 mm ID makes any difference?

*EK-HD PETG Tube 12/16mm 500mm (2pcs)*
Technical data:
- Material: PETG
- Inner diameter: 12 mm
- Outer diameter: 16 mm
- Length: 500 mm (19.5")

I'm planning to use it with this QD3 Female Quick Disconnect No-Spill Coupling, Compression for 13mm x 16mm (1/2in x 5/8in) *Black*

Intended Tubing Size:
ID: 13mm (1/2")
OD: 16mm (5/8")

Will that work?

When it comes to tubes and fitting, only the Outside Diameter should matter when it comes to fittings and tubes, the Inside Diameter is just how much room it has for the water to flow, right?


----------



## AllGamer

*@akira749*

Any idea when more you guys will get more of the *EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel* ?

it's out of stock

only the frosted version is available


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@akira749*
> 
> Any idea when more you guys will get more of the *EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel* ?
> 
> it's out of stock
> 
> only the frosted version is available


It was suppose to be re-stocked today but it's currently kinda crazy down there with all the summer vacations so there might be some delays. But don't worry since it's probably the biggest seller, it will come in stock soon.


----------



## akira749

EK announces NVIDIA GeForce GTX TITAN X Pascal water blocks


----------



## AllGamer

dammit, i just read again what i wrote earlier and I sound like a maniac talking... i'm losing my mind.

What I type and what my mind composes is out of sync









Thanks for the update akira

I noticed you guys restocked the D5 pumps I was also waiting on









trying to piece all the remaining items together to finalize the order

still undecided on the tubings


----------



## AllGamer

I found this quite interesting, while looking up tools to work and cut PETG tubes








Quote:


> **Not for use with any Acrylic Tubing or BITSPOWER and EK-HD brand PETG Tube. It will crack and destroy it.*


I didn't know PETG tubes can have that many flexibility variations between brands.

I guess, I'll just stick with my Dremel







cuts and sands in a single pass


----------



## AllGamer

Ok, it appears *10/13mm (3/8'' - 1/2'') Tubing* is the most common size among the different big brands from elsewhere.

but wouldn't the smaller 10mm Inside Diameter be more restrictive to a good water flow?


----------



## ratzofftoya

So, no Titan X (Pascal) backplates yet, right?


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> So, no Titan X (Pascal) backplates yet, right?


Backplates always release slightly later then the blocks but they announced they will be doing them in multiple colours


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Ok, it appears *10/13mm (3/8'' - 1/2'') Tubing* is the most common size among the different big brands from elsewhere.
> 
> but wouldn't the smaller 10mm Inside Diameter be more restrictive to a good water flow?


The tubing size as little to no impacts on the flow or performances of your loop.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Hey, @akira749

is it possible to get some teaser shots/renders of the upcoming R5E10 kit?







My Rampage V Edition 10 is coming in today and I want it "under water" as soon as possible, but not with a monoblock

Thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Hey, @akira749
> 
> is it possible to get some teaser shots/renders of the upcoming R5E10 kit?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Rampage V Edition 10 is coming in today and I want it "under water" as soon as possible, but not with a monoblock
> 
> Thanks


I didn't even had the chance to see them myself yet. I can't wait myself


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I didn't even had the chance to see them myself yet. I can't wait myself


Hope it will be available soon







Thanks


----------



## fbmowner

Head's up. EK Supremacy Evo 383110980004 out of stock probably until the end of this week. Also PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 12,7 / 9,5mm - Crystal Clear RETAIL 3m is out of stock until 8/16 from EK


----------



## fitzy-775

I am in the process of building my first custom water cool loop and i was playing on getting a kit but the kit i want is always out of stock. https://www.pccasegear.com/products/34972/ek-kit-p360-liquid-cooling-kit
But I think i might just ditch the kit and just order all the parts i need and change a few things around


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> I am in the process of building my first custom water cool loop and i was playing on getting a kit but the kit i want is always out of stock. https://www.pccasegear.com/products/34972/ek-kit-p360-liquid-cooling-kit
> But I think i might just ditch the kit and just order all the parts i need and change a few things around


If you order from EK directly the EK-KIT P360 is actually cheaper https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-p360

Like you, I too originally planned to order the kits, but then I realize most of the stuff I want to customize are not part of the kit, and I'm going for PETG tubing, so in the end I just picked all the EK parts I want, to mix and match it with other 3rd party parts I'm planning to use as well


----------



## greytoad

Just an update. I haven't had a lot of time since I'm still going back and forth to the hospital for my father. I tightened the screws down on the block and and dropped 2 degrees celcius, but I stripped a couple of them. Any idea where I can order some or get some in the states? Performance PCS doesn't have any in stock and my local hardware store has no idea what the manual means by "5x4" in the m2 5x4 ax1 designation. I don't want to pull the block off and re-do the TIM if I can't tighten the screws enough when I re-apply.

By the way I further optimized my undervolt on the rx480. I'm running 1031 milivolts on gpu and 972 milivolts on "memory." that's a 37 milivolt undervolt. The memory setting in Wattman is for the memory controller not for the memory so I can still run 2215 stable. The memory is rated at 1.5 volts so I guess that should have been obvious. Anyone know if any of the third party utilities will open up voltage control on the actual memory? I'll post this over on the polaris bios thread maybe. People keep adding voltage to that setting with no need. Undervolting the memory controller gave me a couple of degrees more and lowered my overall power usage by a bit. In total I"m at about 72 degrees in firestrike ultra now. I have far less headroom that the stock air cooler, but I'm not throttling and its quiet.

I noticed 2 of my Noctua industrial fans weren't turning. I re-connected them, and that got me another 3 degrees on my processor. That was enough that I can get 5GHz on my processor in ADA extreme fpu at 86 degrees. Linpack avx goes to 86 or 87. Prime95 hits 91 before I get enough voltage to fully stabilize it. If I switch out that Raystorm for an ek block I should be able to get the extra 3 degrees necessary to stabilize 5 GHz prime95 on my devil's canyon. Maybe I'll wait to see if can get my other EK block working first.

Looking at the Alphacool fittings I have on the ek block, the threads look like they're about a hair longer than my XSPC compression fitting threads. I have EKWB fittings coming today or tomorrow. I'll check the depth. Maybe I'm having restriction from too deep of g1/4 threads. My previous setup had a kink restricting water flow. I solved that with 45 degree fittings off my 420 blackice crossflow. My CPU temps are right now lower than on my previous setup by a couple of degrees. If I'm still having a flow problem maybe I'll get a few more degrees after it's solved.


----------



## fitzy-775

I was going to order from ek website till i realised it was $60 for shipping. I was already about to spend $550 on the parts till i seen the postest


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> I was going to order from ek website till i realised it was $60 for shipping. I was already about to spend $550 on the parts till i seen the postest


We Got us a Steezy # 2 over here









TCO


----------



## fitzy-775

can you explain what a steezy is? All I wanted was help.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> can you explain what a steezy is? All I wanted was help.


Well Steezy is a person who, I might say, is notorious for changing, modding ideas... revolving around Money. The joke I suppose was for me... I will admit to that.

Depending on your location, I would assume purchasing items from Slovenia could be a tad expensive. I find it surprising, you found the shipping surprising.

TCO


----------



## greytoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> can you explain what a steezy is? All I wanted was help.


I ordered my block from ek's website and paid $18 shipping because I wanted it as soon as it was released, but if I had to order today I"d order from Performance PCS. The block is slightly more, but shipping is much less.

Not to beat a dead horse, but does anyone know what the 5x4 in "m2 5x4 avx" screw description means in ek's manual? I can't find it on the interwebs. Maybe they mean m2.5 4mm screw?


----------



## akira749

@greytoad it's M2.5 screws of 4mm in length


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@akira749*
> 
> Any idea when more you guys will get more of the *EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel* ?
> 
> it's out of stock
> 
> only the frosted version is available


Back in stock


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Back in stock


yup, I found it earlier when I was browsing EK web, Thanks!


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Hope it gets sorted. The threads are MASSIVE so it def needs to be put in straight and true right off and even then might still be crooked a bit. It really took me quite a few tries to get it on and like yourself i got it stuck after a turn or so a few times. Being an auto tech i know not to force it so i tried it a few times without the pump to wear out the plexi threads to make sure it would go on easy with the pump and it did. Shame theres no easier way but even at full speed the thing is dead silent.


I sent an email to EKWB. Standard answer, fill out online RMA form. Go to do that, because I purchased through an authorised reseller, get automated response, cannot process RMA, "contact the reseller". Oh well in the bin it goes. Not worth my time. By the time I do that, pay for postage both ways, email PLE computers, deal with staff etc. its just not worth it. Great business model.

I purchased a replacement top, with pump. Guess what? It fits perfectly. Nice and smooth and tightens up perfectly. Dont need the pump, but will be nice to have a spare.

In saying that, will give the lot to a mate. I am going back to Aquacomputer. At least they deal with issues directly.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Hope it gets sorted. The threads are MASSIVE so it def needs to be put in straight and true right off and even then might still be crooked a bit. It really took me quite a few tries to get it on and like yourself i got it stuck after a turn or so a few times. Being an auto tech i know not to force it so i tried it a few times without the pump to wear out the plexi threads to make sure it would go on easy with the pump and it did. Shame theres no easier way but even at full speed the thing is dead silent.
> 
> 
> 
> I sent an email to EKWB. Standard answer, fill out online RMA form. Go to do that, because I purchased through an authorised reseller, get automated response, cannot process RMA, "contact the reseller". Oh well in the bin it goes. Not worth my time. By the time I do that, pay for postage both ways, email PLE computers, deal with staff etc. its just not worth it. Great business model.
> 
> I purchased a replacement top, with pump. Guess what? It fits perfectly. Nice and smooth and tightens up perfectly. Dont need the pump, but will be nice to have a spare.
> 
> In saying that, will give the lot to a mate. I am going back to Aquacomputer. At least they deal with issues directly.
Click to expand...

You know based on the fact that at least a few people are experiencing this you would surely think that EK, the #1 water cooling manufacturer, would take more notice. Maybe at least offer an exchange or throw up a youtube video to better explain how to install it. EK is the biggest roller coaster I know in this industry, one day they rock with the greatest products, next day RMA's and pulling stuff from shelves and releasing V2's. No wonder I drink so much when I water cool!


----------



## greytoad

I received my ekwb fittings in the post today. The g1/4 trheads do seem shorter than my alphacool threads by maybe 1 to 1 and a 1/2 mm. Maybe I'm restricting my flow. They're really nice feeling too compared to my other fittings. My xspc fittings leave little micro cuts all over my hands. These seem a little better than my alphacool fittings.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Hope it gets sorted. The threads are MASSIVE so it def needs to be put in straight and true right off and even then might still be crooked a bit. It really took me quite a few tries to get it on and like yourself i got it stuck after a turn or so a few times. Being an auto tech i know not to force it so i tried it a few times without the pump to wear out the plexi threads to make sure it would go on easy with the pump and it did. Shame theres no easier way but even at full speed the thing is dead silent.


These online ads make typing replies on this site VERY difficult. Geez.

Received standard email back from EKWB. Fill out online RMA form. Do that. Because I purchased from authorised reseller, cannot go any further. Gret. what a waste of time that will be.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> You know based on the fact that at least a few people are experiencing this you would surely think that EK, the #1 water cooling manufacturer, would take more notice. Maybe at least offer an exchange or throw up a youtube video to better explain how to install it. EK is the biggest roller coaster I know in this industry, one day they rock with the greatest products, next day RMA's and pulling stuff from shelves and releasing V2's. No wonder I drink so much when I water cool!


I had to install add blocker just so I could type a response! Bandwith sucking pricks.

Exactly. Started on the rum in the last few days. What a roller coaster ride it has been this last week.

I have always been careful when threading items, especially metal with delrin or acetal, as it is so fragile. PLE computers, will simply say, you cross threaded it, bad luck. Wash their hands of it anyway. I know full well I did not. All I would have achieved is the same outcome and wasted a lot of time and effort.

It was defective out of the box. It happens. Fix the problem.

I purchased the replacement, but because of crappy courier service (Startrack), it arrived days late (premium next day air is what I paid for) and the standard 'we dont really care email from EKWB" I installed my Aquacomputer 450 res and pump/top. I have had to completely restart my loop to do so and order an extended top from Caselabs, so it would fit.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Well Steezy is a person who, I might say, is notorious for changing, modding ideas... revolving around Money. The joke I suppose was for me... I will admit to that.
> 
> Depending on your location, I would assume purchasing items from Slovenia could be a tad expensive. I find it surprising, you found the shipping surprising.
> 
> TCO


He has been entirely too quiet lately!!!!

And what he does always cost more in long run!!! If you have seen him link to me as i really enjoy watching him


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> I sent an email to EKWB. Standard answer, fill out online RMA form. Go to do that, because I purchased through an authorised reseller, get automated response, cannot process RMA, "contact the reseller". Oh well in the bin it goes. Not worth my time. By the time I do that, pay for postage both ways, email PLE computers, deal with staff etc. its just not worth it. Great business model.
> 
> I purchased a replacement top, with pump. Guess what? It fits perfectly. Nice and smooth and tightens up perfectly. Dont need the pump, but will be nice to have a spare.
> 
> In saying that, will give the lot to a mate. I am going back to Aquacomputer. At least they deal with issues directly.


Glad the new one works at least, probably either a bad ring or bad reservoir.


----------



## AllGamer

*Radiator Question:*

If I were to pick up the *EK-CoolStream XE 360* (Triple) Dimensions: 400 x 130 x *60mm* (L x W x H)

*Do I need to go Push / Pull, or would it still work fine if I do Push only or Pull only?*

My reasoning...
I'm not sure if the Mercury S8 bottom left slot that is for 360mm rad / fan can fit the fans 25mm + rad 60mm + fans 25mm (110mm total)

It's either that or go with the *EK-CoolStream PE 360* (Triple) version, but if I go PE, that is thin (38mm) enough to no need Push / Pull setup.

In a related question...

*Mercury S8 Pedestal*
Can I fit 2x *EK-CoolStream XE 360* 60mm with push/pull?

I believe it should probably fit, just not quite sure how much space is left in between for the air circulation

I'll probably add 2 fans in the front and 2 at the rear to help with the exhaust, since the 2 rads will be full input.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *Radiator Question:*
> 
> If I were to pick up the *EK-CoolStream XE 360* (Triple) Dimensions: 400 x 130 x *60mm* (L x W x H)
> 
> *Do I need to go Push / Pull, or would it still work fine if I do Push only or Pull only?*
> 
> My reasoning...
> I'm not sure if the Mercury S8 bottom left slot that is for 360mm rad / fan can fit the fans 25mm + rad 60mm + fans 25mm (110mm total)
> 
> It's either that or go with the *EK-CoolStream PE 360* (Triple) version, but if I go PE, that is thin (38mm) enough to no need Push / Pull setup.
> 
> In a related question...
> 
> *Mercury S8 Pedestal*
> Can I fit 2x *EK-CoolStream XE 360* 60mm with push/pull?
> 
> I believe it should probably fit, just not quite sure how much space is left in between for the air circulation
> 
> I'll probably add 2 fans in the front and 2 at the rear to help with the exhaust, since the 2 rads will be full input.


Idk the fpi on those but id def do push instead of pull, a good high static pressure fan should be perfect. Honestly the difference between a 45mm and 60mm is minimal so if you can do 45 in a push/pull id do that. Not losing much.


----------



## bigbite76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Received standard email back from EKWB. Fill out online RMA form. Do that. Because I purchased from authorised reseller, cannot go any further. Gret. what a waste of time that will be.


That sucks. I was able to get a RMA for a plexi water block where the plexi become cloudy directly from EK even though I purchased through PC case gear.


----------



## greytoad

I've found EK to be pretty responsive to support.

BTW the alphacool fittings I have on my ek block are ~5.5mm deep on the g1/4 threads.. The manual says 4mm is the limit. I'm putting the ek fittings on today. Hope that's my temp problem.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *Radiator Question:*
> 
> If I were to pick up the *EK-CoolStream XE 360* (Triple) Dimensions: 400 x 130 x *60mm* (L x W x H)
> 
> *Do I need to go Push / Pull, or would it still work fine if I do Push only or Pull only?*
> 
> My reasoning...
> I'm not sure if the Mercury S8 bottom left slot that is for 360mm rad / fan can fit the fans 25mm + rad 60mm + fans 25mm (110mm total)
> 
> It's either that or go with the *EK-CoolStream PE 360* (Triple) version, but if I go PE, that is thin (38mm) enough to no need Push / Pull setup.
> 
> In a related question...
> 
> *Mercury S8 Pedestal*
> Can I fit 2x *EK-CoolStream XE 360* 60mm with push/pull?
> 
> I believe it should probably fit, just not quite sure how much space is left in between for the air circulation
> 
> I'll probably add 2 fans in the front and 2 at the rear to help with the exhaust, since the 2 rads will be full input.


For the bottom left chamber you can fit an xe in p/p but you may have issues if you have front i/o with the fan that goes in pull near the front of the case. Take measurements in that area first.

I used to run an xe in the lower chamber of my s8 early on but i removed it. Its too thick of a rad for that lower chamber and leaves nowhere for the air to escape. A lot of air ends up pushing back out of the chamber and gets recirculated back in. I ended up switching to a 30mm rad in push only. You also would have the issue of completely blocking the slot for wiring to come up through the midplate which may or may not be an issue for you.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *Radiator Question:*
> 
> If I were to pick up the *EK-CoolStream XE 360* (Triple) Dimensions: 400 x 130 x *60mm* (L x W x H)
> 
> *Do I need to go Push / Pull, or would it still work fine if I do Push only or Pull only?*
> 
> My reasoning...
> I'm not sure if the Mercury S8 bottom left slot that is for 360mm rad / fan can fit the fans 25mm + rad 60mm + fans 25mm (110mm total)
> 
> It's either that or go with the *EK-CoolStream PE 360* (Triple) version, but if I go PE, that is thin (38mm) enough to no need Push / Pull setup.
> 
> In a related question...
> 
> *Mercury S8 Pedestal*
> Can I fit 2x *EK-CoolStream XE 360* 60mm with push/pull?
> 
> I believe it should probably fit, just not quite sure how much space is left in between for the air circulation
> 
> I'll probably add 2 fans in the front and 2 at the rear to help with the exhaust, since the 2 rads will be full input.
> 
> 
> 
> For the bottom left chamber you can fit an xe in p/p but you may have issues if you have front i/o with the fan that goes in pull near the front of the case. Take measurements in that area first.
> 
> I used to run an xe in the lower chamber of my s8 early on but i removed it. Its too thick of a rad for that lower chamber and leaves nowhere for the air to escape. A lot of air ends up pushing back out of the chamber and gets recirculated back in. I ended up switching to a 30mm rad in push only. You also would have the issue of completely blocking the slot for wiring to come up through the midplate which may or may not be an issue for you.
Click to expand...

This^

I had an RX 360, push-only, in my S8 lower left chamber. This fit fine, but there isn't a lot of space for air circulation, and then there is the front switch/usb cable clearance to deal with.

I've switched to using the S8 pedestal now for two 360's, plenty of room for push/pull even with fat rads.
The XE's would fit fine in the pedestal.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> For the bottom left chamber you can fit an xe in p/p but you may have issues if you have front i/o with the fan that goes in pull near the front of the case. Take measurements in that area first.
> 
> I used to run an xe in the lower chamber of my s8 early on but i removed it. Its too thick of a rad for that lower chamber and leaves nowhere for the air to escape. A lot of air ends up pushing back out of the chamber and gets recirculated back in. I ended up switching to a 30mm rad in push only. You also would have the issue of completely blocking the slot for wiring to come up through the midplate which may or may not be an issue for you.


Thank you!

you just confirmed what I was concerned about, not enough air flow after the air goes into the case.

I did plan to use it as an exhaust, which should solve the issue,

but still at 110mm there is no much room left for the tubes pipe work.

I'm leaning more towards the 38mm rad as well, with fan and everything it's 63mm that gives it plenty of room for airflow, and tube works.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> This^
> 
> I had an RX 360, push-only, in my S8 lower left chamber. This fit fine, but there isn't a lot of space for air circulation, and then there is the front switch/usb cable clearance to deal with.
> 
> I've switched to using the S8 pedestal now for two 360's, plenty of room for push/pull even with fat rads.
> The XE's would fit fine in the pedestal.


yes the Pedestal I was pretty sure it should be roomy enough to fit 2 fat rads in push/pull configuration,
but I wasn't sure, so it's good to have someone able to confirm that.

Thanks!


----------



## SteezyTN

Okay EK... I'm having some serious issues with the Vardar 140ERs. One month ago, I ordered 4 more so that way I could push pull my 560 rad. Well the fans I received were terrible. PPCS got into contact with you guys (EK) and you guys let PPCS send me 4 more fans and that way I wouldn't have to pay return shipping again. Well... The fans I just recieved are slightly better than the ones I RMA'd, but they are still worse than my original 140ERs that I recieved when the recall was over (basically, they are the ones I recieved when the new fans were made after the recall).

The fans I just recieved still give off like a slight whirl wind/electoral buzz that drives me insane. I unplugged them and listened to the good ones I have, and no issues.

What's going on here?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> We Got us a Steezy # 2 over here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Well Steezy is a person who, I might say, is notorious for changing, modding ideas... revolving around Money. The joke I suppose was for me... I will admit to that.
> 
> Depending on your location, I would assume purchasing items from Slovenia could be a tad expensive. I find it surprising, you found the shipping surprising.
> 
> TCO


I've done quite well the past couple of months. Haven't changed anything... Just yet.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I've done quite well the past couple of months. Haven't changed anything... Just yet.


(Imagine the Crowd going wild)

That's good Steez. Im glad you have found your place in this world, and was able to relax for a while









Hows the Rig running?

TCO


----------



## Sazexa

So I'm getting ready to finish my new build, and was wondering if I can get a couple of opinions from people.

I'll be running two GPU's, and, can't decide between running a triple-parallel (with the middle slot blanked off) bridge, or just using compression fittings and tubing between the two GPU's. What do you guys think I should do?


----------



## nzphil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So I'm getting ready to finish my new build, and was wondering if I can get a couple of opinions from people.
> 
> I'll be running two GPU's, and, can't decide between running a triple-parallel (with the middle slot blanked off) bridge, or just using compression fittings and tubing between the two GPU's. What do you guys think I should do?


This is mostly up to personal preference. Photos would help to see what the rest of your build looks like.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So I'm getting ready to finish my new build, and was wondering if I can get a couple of opinions from people.
> 
> I'll be running two GPU's, and, can't decide between running a triple-parallel (with the middle slot blanked off) bridge, or just using *compression fittings and tubing* between the two GPU's. What do you guys think I should do?


You are talking about soft tubing?

TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greytoad*
> 
> I received my ekwb fittings in the post today. The g1/4 trheads do seem shorter than my alphacool threads by maybe 1 to 1 and a 1/2 mm. Maybe I'm restricting my flow. They're really nice feeling too compared to my other fittings. My xspc fittings leave little micro cuts all over my hands. *These seem a little better than my alphacool fittings.*


I believe a cork with a soda straw thru it would be better than alphacool fittings . . . .









D.


----------



## greytoad

My temps are still kinda bad after putting the EK fittings on but no longer horrible. Noticeable improvement in flow and the time it took to bleed the air. I"ll have to follow TCO's advice and do the TIM. At least I can overvolt to 1.2 and get 1405 without throttling. That's not great compared to what other people get with Red Mod let alone a 15 fan, 3 rad with a d5 setup. I have to get things ready for my father coming home from the hospital. He had a stroke in March. I'll probably wait until things settle down and I can get a nickle back plate. The rx 480 is a bit flimsy and there's a lot of bend in the pcb from the block and pressure from the fittings. That could be throwing things off too.

I should say on my undervolt settings it was about a 14 degree drop in firestrike Ultra loop getting the "Soda Straws" out of my loop.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So I'm getting ready to finish my new build, and was wondering if I can get a couple of opinions from people.
> 
> I'll be running two GPU's, and, can't decide between running a triple-parallel (with the middle slot blanked off) bridge, or just using compression fittings and tubing between the two GPU's. What do you guys think I should do?


Bridge/terminal always looks better imo.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzphil*
> 
> This is mostly up to personal preference. Photos would help to see what the rest of your build looks like.


I posted before, but, it's a mostly black/grayscale build. Here's a a photo of it unfinished.
Here's a sample picture I snapped quickly.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You are talking about soft tubing?
> 
> TCO


Soft tubing, ZMT 10/16mm.


----------



## maslows

EK Parts
EK Predator 360
EK-FB ASUS Z170S Monoblock - Nickel
EK-HD Tube 10/12mm 500mm (4 pcs)
EK-HD Tube D.I.Y. Kit
EK-Ekoolant Pastel WHITE (Concentrate 250mL)
EK-HDC Fitting 12mm G1/4 - Nickel (6 pcs)
EK-AF Pass-Through G1/4 - Black (2 pcs)
EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm - White (2 pcs)
EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black
(Route around back of case)

question
Without adding a another reservoir is this ok to have. I'm planning on adding acrylic tubing for just the way cpu for now as the 1080is just OP IMO. Also is it OK to mix the acrylic hard tubing with the ZMT black tubing...

I have 2 gallons of distilled, 1 to flush 1 to mix. I have a ball check valve, I am gong to install in the bottom of the rad to drain.[/quote]


----------



## nzphil

Acrylic and ZMT are fine together. Not 100% what your first question is? Are asking if you need a res because your using a Predator?


----------



## maslows

Also that


----------



## nzphil

Interesting combination. I don't have any personal experience with the Predator but I'm pretty sure you will be fine without a res.


----------



## nzphil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I posted before, but, it's a mostly black/grayscale build. Here's a a photo of it unfinished.
> Here's a sample picture I snapped quickly.
> 
> *I think a bridge that matches your cpu block will look best. Again this is my personal opinion.*


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *greytoad*
> 
> I received my ekwb fittings in the post today. The g1/4 trheads do seem shorter than my alphacool threads by maybe 1 to 1 and a 1/2 mm. Maybe I'm restricting my flow. They're really nice feeling too compared to my other fittings. My xspc fittings leave little micro cuts all over my hands. *These seem a little better than my alphacool fittings.*
> 
> 
> 
> *I believe a cork with a soda straw thru it would be better than alphacool fittings . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> D.
Click to expand...

This. ^

Only brand of fittings I've had that failed (leaked) were four new Alphacool 90-degree fittings.

Never again, lol.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *greytoad*
> 
> I received my ekwb fittings in the post today. The g1/4 trheads do seem shorter than my alphacool threads by maybe 1 to 1 and a 1/2 mm. Maybe I'm restricting my flow. They're really nice feeling too compared to my other fittings. My xspc fittings leave little micro cuts all over my hands. *These seem a little better than my alphacool fittings.*
> 
> 
> 
> *I believe a cork with a soda straw thru it would be better than alphacool fittings . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> D.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This. ^
> 
> Only brand of fittings I've had that failed (leaked) were four new Alphacool 90-degree fittings.
> 
> Never again, lol.
Click to expand...

Is that the new version of alphacool fittings or the old versions? The new versions are much better quality.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *greytoad*
> 
> I received my ekwb fittings in the post today. The g1/4 trheads do seem shorter than my alphacool threads by maybe 1 to 1 and a 1/2 mm. Maybe I'm restricting my flow. They're really nice feeling too compared to my other fittings. My xspc fittings leave little micro cuts all over my hands. *These seem a little better than my alphacool fittings.*
> 
> 
> 
> *I believe a cork with a soda straw thru it would be better than alphacool fittings . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> D.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This. ^
> 
> Only brand of fittings I've had that failed (leaked) were four new Alphacool 90-degree fittings.
> 
> Never again, lol.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is that the new version of alphacool fittings or the old versions? The new versions are much better quality.
Click to expand...

Probably an older version, I bought them a couple years ago when I did my TJ07.


----------



## fbmowner

It's official.. I am in


----------



## DarthBaggins

That 1070 looks thirsty


----------



## fbmowner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That 1070 looks thirsty


shhhhhhhh not yet!!


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know MicroCenter carries them


----------



## greytoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> This. ^
> 
> Only brand of fittings I've had that failed (leaked) were four new Alphacool 90-degree fittings.
> 
> Never again, lol.


Interesting you said that. One of mine came loose and leaked from my cpu onto my video card earlier today. It was an Alphacool 45 degree fitting. In draining my loop to fix it the EK 45 degree fitting started to leak as well so I decided enough with aesthetics and pulled them all out.. I don't really have time to sit with a hair dryer to my video card and motherboard for an hour. The EK fitting has two potential leak points. and two o rings to worry about. I just decided I'd cut my potential failure rate in half but have an uglier rig. For now anyway. Maybe I'll change my mind when I add the back plate in.


----------



## greytoad

Also the logos rubbed off of mine. Anyone else have that? I got them from Performance PCS a few months ago. I still have three others in my system. It's too much of a pain to get them out. T wo are in locations that I have to take everything out to get to. they were listed as "Alphacool HF 19/13 compression fitting 45° revolvable G1/4 - Chrome" and "Alphacool HF 19/13 compression fitting 90° revolvable G1/4 - Chrome." I liked that the compression ring is physically attached to the fitting so you don't mistakenly loosen it while moving the tube causing water to leak where it isn't supposed to. However, they absolutely should never be used with an EK full cover graphics block. They also seem to tighten less securely than XSPC fittings. Though XSPC fittings seem produce micro cuts on my hands. I can be painful the next day. Also it was an over tightened XSPC fitting that sent POM into my loop and started a lot of these problems. They don't just cut hands.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fbmowner*
> 
> It's official.. I am in
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


ahh.. it looks like fun time









I'm still piecing all the parts together, since the CaseLab case will not be here for another few months, I've plenty of time to shop.


----------



## AllGamer

Radiator Question:

*When mounting a radiator vertically, does it matter if I mount it with the water loop at the top or bottom?*

I read from some threads that is better to have it top, for the air to escape, otherwise it'll be forever trapped inside the rad if it's upside down, is that true?









 *vs*.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Radiator Question:
> 
> *When mounting a radiator vertically, does it matter if I mount it with the water loop at the top or bottom?*
> 
> I read from some threads that is better to have it top, for the air to escape, otherwise it'll be forever trapped inside the rad if it's upside down, is that true?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *vs*.


No it won't forever be trapped there, you can bleed it out, just more difficult.

At the top if you want easier bleeding, at the bottom if you want easier draining.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> No it won't forever be trapped there, you can bleed it out, just more difficult.
> 
> At the top if you want easier bleeding, at the *bottom if you want easier draining*.


oh crap, i totally forgot about that,
yup, i think bottom makes more sense now that you mention it.


----------



## DNMock

So my only option it would seem for an HB bridge is the Nvidia version....

While I'm sure no one here would condone such heinous behavior but hypothetically, if, lets call him my friend, this friend of mine were to use a dremel tool to cut away just enough of those tips to get it to fit, it would work out just fine right? You see my friend tells me the EVGA HB bridge he needs is sold out for a good month, and since he already pre-ordered 2 EKWB blocks, I'm told he went ahead and got an Nvidia bridge.

So, if this hypothetical friend of mine were to do such a thing, would he be able to cut enough away before getting into any of the wiring built into the PCB you think?


----------



## Ceadderman

Whatever you ate thinking...

Put the Dremel down and step away.

You can make due with a ribbon connector until you can get a PCB bridge. Cutting PCB of any sort is never recommended.










~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> So my only option it would seem for an HB bridge is the Nvidia version....
> 
> While I'm sure no one here would condone such heinous behavior but hypothetically, if, lets call him my friend, this friend of mine were to use a dremel tool to cut away just enough of those tips to get it to fit, it would work out just fine right? You see my friend tells me the EVGA HB bridge he needs is sold out for a good month, and since he already pre-ordered 2 EKWB blocks, I'm told he went ahead and got an Nvidia bridge.
> 
> So, if this hypothetical friend of mine were to do such a thing, would he be able to cut enough away before getting into any of the wiring built into the PCB you think?


Does the HB bridge even make that much a difference that it's worth the effort and risk?


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Whatever you ate thinking...
> 
> Put the Dremel down and step away.
> 
> You can make due with a ribbon connector until you can get a PCB bridge. Cutting PCB of any sort is never recommended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


so what about a heat gun and just kinda folding it upwards?


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> This. ^
> 
> Only brand of fittings I've had that failed (leaked) were four new Alphacool 90-degree fittings.
> 
> Never again, lol.


most of my parts in the loop are alphacool and I love it, quality is very good, machining on plexi is waaaaay better than EK products(they looks like dremeled in the garage lol), I'm not using any compression fittings from them(don't make in white) but used few antitwist extensions and never had any issue.
I've read somewhere that Alphacool is a completely different bran now, they've changed everyrhing few yrs ago(starting from the owner, finishing on products). Great watercooling solutions, much better than peasant's EK.


----------



## Lays

Is there some reason you came in here just to defend some products you bought whilst crapping all over EK products? Lol


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Hi Crew,

Any idea if the Mayhems Blitz Part 2 cleaning system is ok with EK Nickel blocks (GPU/CPU)??

Cheers


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lays*
> 
> Is there some reason you came in here just to defend some products you bought whilst crapping all over EK products? Lol












TCO


----------



## Mads1




----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Hi Crew,

Yet another question. Sorry.

I have read the EK Supremacy Evo CPU block install instructions and installed the CPU block with the motherboard outside of the case on a level surface. Using the X99 version.

Noticed that the springs and screws were very difficult.

What are the chances of re-installing the block on the board with it installed in the case?

Bad idea?

I ask, because the flow of the loop is opposite to the current inlet/outlet setup. That is flow goes is in the "outlet".

Cheers


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Hi Crew,
> 
> Yet another question. Sorry.
> 
> I have read the EK Supremacy Evo CPU block install instructions and installed the CPU block with the motherboard outside of the case on a level surface. Using the X99 version.
> 
> Noticed that the springs and screws were very difficult.
> 
> *What are the chances of re-installing the block on the board with it installed in the case?*
> 
> Bad idea?
> 
> I ask, because the flow of the loop is opposite to the current inlet/outlet setup. That is flow goes is in the "outlet".
> 
> Cheers


I've actually never installed the block outside of the case. I installed the block on the processor while in the case on the motherboard in multiple builds.

TCO


----------



## fbmowner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Hi Crew,
> 
> Yet another question. Sorry.
> 
> I have read the EK Supremacy Evo CPU block install instructions and installed the CPU block with the motherboard outside of the case on a level surface. Using the X99 version.
> 
> Noticed that the springs and screws were very difficult.
> 
> What are the chances of re-installing the block on the board with it installed in the case?
> 
> Bad idea?
> 
> I ask, because the flow of the loop is opposite to the current inlet/outlet setup. That is flow goes is in the "outlet".
> 
> Cheers


I have no experience with X99 but for my MB the instructions on my Sup Evo also said outside the case, but with the giant cut outs cases have these days on the motherboard trays I see no reason to take the motherboard out to install a heatsink / waterblock. I my self have always installed heatsinks while the board was mounted inside the case and with my newest install of my EK Waterblock I also left the board in the case.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lays*
> 
> Is there some reason you came in here just to defend some products you bought whilst crapping all over EK products? Lol


yes, because that was a subject of a discussion before.
The same reason why other EK fanbois were crapping Alphacool products.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lays*
> 
> Is there some reason you came in here just to defend some products you bought whilst crapping all over EK products? Lol
> 
> 
> 
> yes, because that was a subject of a discussion before.
> The same reason why other EK fanbois were crapping Alphacool products.
Click to expand...

Nobody is crapping anything here. It was stated a few posts back that alphacool fittings had problems leaking and we were just trying to establish they have a whole new line up of fittings that are much better quality. The alphacool discussion would have already been over if an un-needed "crapping" post hadn't been made. Yes this is the EK club, yes we love EK (still my most fav manufacturer), but if you know anything about forums, and especially OCN forums, sometimes the topic strays off a bit. It's all fine, there are lots of good choices in products out there and EK and alphacool are two of the best.

Now back to our regularly scheduled EK programming...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Does the HB bridge even make that much a difference that it's worth the effort and risk?


Best asking in the 1080 and 1070 owners clubs, but from what I've seen yes it does.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lays*
> 
> Is there some reason you came in here just to defend some products you bought whilst crapping all over EK products? Lol
> 
> 
> 
> yes, because that was a subject of a discussion before.
> The same reason why other EK fanbois were crapping Alphacool products.
Click to expand...











You're in the EK Club thread and yet you throw out "fanbois" like you didn't know it? Really?









But as as been explained to you the Alphastool conversation was over before you came here and showed your a..; er face.









If this were *any* other thread I wouldn't have said anything. Be gone peasant.









~Ceadder


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Best asking in the 1080 and 1070 owners clubs, but from what I've seen yes it does.


I think he was referring to spending 50 bucks on something and most likely end up destroying it instead of waiting a month for the part that will fit correctly.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're in the EK Club thread and yet you throw out "fanbois" like you didn't know it? Really?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But as as been explained to you the Alphastool conversation was over before you came here and showed your a..; er face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If this were *any* other thread I wouldn't have said anything. Be gone peasant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


these days... it's so easy to be a hero and a tough man, on internet forums. poor little man you are.
Anyway, ppl were crapping Alphacool, I simply gave my opinion and experience about that brand, is it not allowed because it's EK thread where you have to glorify that brand(no matter if their products are good or not) and s**t on all other brands??
It's a computer related forum where ppl discuss and exchange their opinions and thoughts, mine was different to few other ppl's. We compare products, every person has different experience with certain parts and brands, your post didn't bring a thing to this thread.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## huckincharlie

so this is happening with my x99 monoblock, as you can see big "gap"







I have separated loop for cpu and gpu. Water form pump is going straight to monoblock. When I shake case with pump on and get ride of all bubbles evertthing is fine till next switch on pc, again this nast gap. What am I doing wrong?








p.s. it not my first watercooling build, but first with monoblock


----------



## greytoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> most of my parts in the loop are alphacool and I love it, quality is very good, machining on plexi is waaaaay better than EK products(they looks like dremeled in the garage lol), I'm not using any compression fittings from them(don't make in white) but used few antitwist extensions and never had any issue.
> I've read somewhere that Alphacool is a completely different bran now, they've changed everyrhing few yrs ago(starting from the owner, finishing on products). Great watercooling solutions, much better than peasant's EK.


Not sure where you're getting the "peasant's" from As a precariate I take offense to this characterization. I have both EK and Alphacool in my rig. I like the alphacool fittings for what they are, but they don't seem to be quite as good as my ek fittings. On their right angle and 45 degree angle fittings I liked that the compression fitting wasn't separate. This reduces the points of failure. However, the finish on the EK fittings just seemed much nicer to deal with. i"m not taking the three alphacool fittings out of my rig anytime soon but I did have a recent bad experience like I said.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're in the EK Club thread and yet you throw out "fanbois" like you didn't know it? Really?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But as as been explained to you the Alphastool conversation was over before you came here and showed your a..; er face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If this were *any* other thread I wouldn't have said anything. Be gone peasant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> these days... it's so easy to be a hero and a tough man, on internet forums. poor little man you are.
> Anyway, ppl were crapping Alphacool, I simply gave my opinion and experience about that brand, is it not allowed because it's EK thread where you have to glorify that brand(no matter if their products are good or not) and s**t on all other brands??
> It's a computer related forum where ppl discuss and exchange their opinions and thoughts, mine was different to few other ppl's. We compare products, every person has different experience with certain parts and brands, your post didn't bring a thing to this thread.
Click to expand...











I will let these following posts do the talking...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Here here TCO!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greytoad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> most of my parts in the loop are alphacool and I love it, quality is very good, machining on plexi is waaaaay better than EK products(they looks like dremeled in the garage lol), I'm not using any compression fittings from them(don't make in white) but used few antitwist extensions and never had any issue.
> I've read somewhere that Alphacool is a completely different bran now, they've changed everyrhing few yrs ago(starting from the owner, finishing on products). Great watercooling solutions, much better than peasant's EK.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure where you're getting the "peasant's" from As a precariate I take offense to this characterization. I have both EK and Alphacool in my rig. I like the alphacool fittings for what they are, but they don't seem to be quite as good as my ek fittings. On their right angle and 45 degree angle fittings I liked that the compression fitting wasn't separate. This reduces the points of failure. However, the finish on the EK fittings just seemed much nicer to deal with. i"m not taking the three alphacool fittings out of my rig anytime soon but I did have a recent bad experience like I said.
Click to expand...

I bet you could ask anyone with Experience on the subject which is the better brand and 9 out of 10 respondents would say EK.

Better blocks.
Better Radiators
Better Reservoirs
Better Pump Tops
Better all round performance.

I've never used Alphacool. But then that's more of an Aesthetics choice than any other reason. I like to keep the use of other manufacturer parts to a minimum. Not that I won't use them. I had a FrozenQ Res in my loop until recently.

Now it's EK and Monsoon.

But all my Blocks are EK as well as my Pump and Top.

I simply took offense to his stance that we're Fanbois here. That is simple minded abject stupidity, given that he's addressing the EK Club and not a Watercooling Club. Kinda like going into the local watering hole where SF Giants fans hang out and calling them out for being fans because they talk smack about the Dodgers.









But meh, whatever. I've given this canucklehead too much time as it is. I'm done with this subject.







all.

~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Oh what's going on in here....



Nevermind, the usual suspects....


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will let these following posts do the talking...
> Here here TCO!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bet you could ask anyone with Experience on the subject which is the better brand and 9 out of 10 respondents would say EK.
> 
> Better blocks.
> Better Radiators
> Better Reservoirs
> Better Pump Tops
> Better all round performance.
> 
> I've never used Alphacool. But then that's more of an Aesthetics choice than any other reason. I like to keep the use of other manufacturer parts to a minimum. Not that I won't use them. I had a FrozenQ Res in my loop until recently.
> 
> Now it's EK and Monsoon.
> 
> But all my Blocks are EK as well as my Pump and Top.
> 
> I simply took offense to his stance that we're Fanbois here. That is simple minded abject stupidity, given that he's addressing the EK Club and not a Watercooling Club. Kinda like going into the local watering hole where SF Giants fans hang out and calling them out for being fans because they talk smack about the Dodgers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But meh, whatever. I've given this canucklehead too much time as it is. I'm done with this subject.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all.
> 
> ~Ceadder


No offense but biggest load of crap right here.

EK does not makes better anything, thats just ignorant and idiotic for anyone to state that out right. We all know that aqua computer makes far better quality water blocks then ek but they dont make enough blocks. Radiators, EK by far does not make better or the best radiators. I understand this is the ekwb club but stating outright bs is just ignorant no offense.

Me personally i have pretty much everything in my loop, ekwb cpu block and ekwb reservoir. I have 2 alphacool rads that have been performing awesome and were super clean inside. I have the ekwb zmt tubing, and a mix of ekwb fittings and ekwb and xspc fittings. One of my ekwb fittings leaked brand new and my xspc didn't. So yea its a crap shoot in anything you buy but lets get real ek does not make the best everything.


----------



## greytoad

umm. maybe you could put this more diplomatically? This is the EK club unless you are just looking for a rise I don't understand the attitude. I have a mix too. I like my XSPC raystorm on my CPU but I know that if I replaced it with an EK block I"d get about 3 degrees lower temps in a high water flow situation and about the same to worse in low flow situations. It's not really worth the upgrade right now. I think you're the only one that's really worried about what EK club posters feel about the quality of EK stuff is. Of the fittings I have my EK fittings are the nicest on my hands. Tightening them down is more pleasant than my XSPC fittings or my alphacool fittings. For tightness of seal I have to give a tie to XSPC and EK. Alphacool third. For how pleasant they are to work with I have to go EK>alphacool>XSPC. In my opinion. Just from the cuts on my hands.

edit:

I don't have any experience with aquacomputer blocks but I've heard decent things. It depends on which video card you're putting them on . I haven't read any reviews of their blocks for this generation of cards. Care to provide a link?


----------



## Silent Scone

Aquacomputer radiators perform like ass.

Just saying.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will let these following posts do the talking...
> Here here TCO!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bet you could ask anyone with Experience on the subject which is the better brand and 9 out of 10 respondents would say EK.
> 
> Better blocks.
> Better Radiators
> Better Reservoirs
> Better Pump Tops
> Better all round performance.
> 
> I've never used Alphacool. But then that's more of an Aesthetics choice than any other reason. I like to keep the use of other manufacturer parts to a minimum. Not that I won't use them. I had a FrozenQ Res in my loop until recently.
> 
> Now it's EK and Monsoon.
> 
> But all my Blocks are EK as well as my Pump and Top.
> 
> I simply took offense to his stance that we're Fanbois here. That is simple minded abject stupidity, given that he's addressing the EK Club and not a Watercooling Club. Kinda like going into the local watering hole where SF Giants fans hang out and calling them out for being fans because they talk smack about the Dodgers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But meh, whatever. I've given this canucklehead too much time as it is. I'm done with this subject.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No offense but biggest load of crap right here.
> 
> EK does not makes better anything, thats just ignorant and idiotic for anyone to state that out right. We all know that aqua computer makes far better quality water blocks then ek but they dont make enough blocks. Radiators, EK by far does not make better or the best radiators. I understand this is the ekwb club but stating outright bs is just ignorant no offense.
> 
> Me personally i have pretty much everything in my loop, ekwb cpu block and ekwb reservoir. I have 2 alphacool rads that have been performing awesome and were super clean inside. I have the ekwb zmt tubing, and a mix of ekwb fittings and ekwb and xspc fittings. One of my ekwb fittings leaked brand new and my xspc didn't. So yea its a crap shoot in anything you buy but lets get real ek does not make the best everything.
Click to expand...

I'm reasonably sure that we can agree that between EK and Alphacool, that EK is better in every respect of the watercooling concept.

One thing I left out, EK has better looks as well.

I don't have experience with AquaComputer but I'm pretty sure that EK is neck and neck with them at every turn. Not saying one or the other is better performance-wise but I'm not an EK fan for looks. I'm an EK fan for their performance and they set the bar so high way back in the Supreme HF days that it's difficult to maintain that level of perfection in the market. Yes there is room to improve and all the manufacturers have done so over time but it took awhile.

Soon as I can I will be picking up an EVO for my Intel rig. Have the HF on my AMD rig and it works like a Champ for my Folder.









~Ceadder


----------



## looniam

does anybody have some testing results between the J1/J2 jet plates in the supremacy EVO?


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> Aquacomputer radiators perform like ass.
> 
> Just saying.


Pretty ass though.


----------



## Daggi

Anyone know if there has been some testing on the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial



I wonder how it performs compared to the EK-XTOP Dual D5 Serial



I allready have a EK-XTOP Dual D5 Serial which I love and it performs great. But I need a new dual top for my new rig


----------



## Snaporz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Anyone know if there has been some testing on the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder how it performs compared to the EK-XTOP Dual D5 Serial
> 
> 
> 
> I allready have a EK-XTOP Dual D5 Serial which I love and it performs great. But I need a new dual top for my new rig


I just installed the Revo in my build. It definitely pushes the water at 100%. I have it at constant 100% with the fan pins not plugged in to MB. I currently push through a 360 and 480 EK 60mm res and evo cpu block, with my titan x pascal block to be added once it ships.

I made a rookie error and accidentally ran it dry for a second when messing around with other stuff and forgot to unplug it,, but didnt kill it /phew.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snaporz*
> 
> I just installed the Revo in my build. It definitely pushes the water at 100%. I have it at constant 100% with the fan pins not plugged in to MB. I currently push through a 360 and 480 EK 60mm res and evo cpu block, with my titan x pascal block to be added once it ships.
> 
> I made a rookie error and accidentally ran it dry for a second when messing around with other stuff and forgot to unplug it,, but didnt kill it /phew.


That's great







But I still wonder how it is compared to the older one. Did a search but couldn't find anything


----------



## emsj86

At the end of the day it comes down to what works for you. There will always be someone with a bad experience from s said product. Everyone has there on comfort levels with certain products. Alohacool fittings leaked on me and the brand rubbed off in a few weeks of handling them. Would I try them again probably as there new glass tubing looks nice. But I really don't care about brands. To me it's whatever works and looks nice. Price does have some sway to but I ek won't sacrifice build quality for a few bucks saved. That being said I'm itching to change my loop up. Having two kids one 6 mi the and one three makes finding time for building hard


----------



## greytoad

I'm thinking of putting post in my system to support the wight of my RX 480 block. The reference 4x 480 is very flimsy and I'm getting a lot of pcb bend making me nervous. I think that's throwing off the contact with the block a bit. I don't really want to drill into my power supply, but that may be the only. If I just let the wieght of the block put enough pressure to hold the post in place that should be fine. Any suggestions on material?


----------



## Pej06

I'm using EK and Alphacool material since 2003( EK "Wave or Nexxos HP"..I still have an EK Full cover WB for Ati X800XT here)..A long ago before they were know in the US..
When there was only Dangerden and Swiftech or Koolance there.
It was 2 differents worlds beetween US and EU..
Innovatek was the first to introduce 8/10 G1/4 compression fittings and made the things a lot simple for us(at least in EU),then came Alphacool,Watercool,Aquacomputer and..after came EK.
I will not mention Asetek,cause this company always made only crap since 2000...and worse of all they introduced the AIO concept..

Anyway,who cares about the "brand",except for fashion?

Alphacool was N°1 in EU for years ,then they felt and EK took the leadership..Also EK was the first to go on US Forums and ask people what they want,what they like and bla bla..Good marketing,good commercial vision..
Now EK is so well implanted in the US that there' s no competiton with others..even with the reborned Alphacool(thanks Aquatuning).It's too late.
Watercooling is not a passion anymore, it's fashion ,it's bling bling..Moonsoon or Blingspower,so much overpriced that it becomes indecent...Really, 20/25 euro for ONE fitting..woaw so cool..








And when things becomes fashion it's only question about money..The richs can and the others just look at..

Not anybody can spend 500 euro just for a set of fittings(without being sponsorised)..So thanks to XSPC to make affordable stuff,thanks to Alphacool and EK to make some innovative and not too expensive stuff..
Also "Watercool" is for me the "best" balance in terms of quality and price;quite the same with Aquacomputer..

Even Bitspower rotary fittings sometimes don't rotate or leak( i have some)not only the Alphacool ones..Same with EK stuff,same with every one...

UT 60, Monsta(wich is just a concept),XE,PE,SE...They all come from China..aren't they?

PS; please excuse my bad English..I'm French.


----------



## Pej06

*musammi84*

EK blocks are not more expensive in the US...maybe 5 euro difference..
And all the other brands are less expensive then it is in EU..
And for the "choice"..no competition ,you can buy what you want in the US,with great prices..Here in EU ,no Phanteks,no TT,no Swiftech anymore,no Koolance..even not the XSPC Blade (cheapest WB for GTX 1080)..
Bispower WB ?..here in EU..no way never..

Europe is dead brother...


----------



## greytoad

@musammi84 I'm sorry if I misread you. I Know I went with EK not because of marketing but because they were first to market with an rx480 block other than a chinese company. It looked like there were dead spots in the flow over the ram on the Chinese block. Might have been fine, but EK has a good reputation here. Maybe that's marketing as you say, but I've had good support from the company reps too. I also think it's reasonable for a member of the EK club to think that the other people in the club like EK products best. Just saying. Know your audience.

For the price, a blade might have been a better choice on a $220 video card. It's only $66 on performance pcs. I paid $117 for my ek block. XSPC was a couple of weeks late to market though.

edit:

some say the VRM cooling isn't very good on the xspc block. I don't know though. I'm not having the greatest EK temps yet. but that's a lack of trying on my part ^NOT on on EK's part.


----------



## Willius

In my opinion, every manufacturer has their own ''expertise''.

And i mean by that, some manufacture's their CPU block is 2 degrees better than the other manufacurer, but their rads perform a little better for example.

Ain't that all part of the game? of being an enthousiast, the persuit of every last bit of performance? there is no such fuzz in the EOC world, some use Kingpin, some der8aur, some their own made stuff. They dont pick up their pitchforks and go ham on other users using other brands. and saying mine is best.


----------



## maslows

Ooh ooh, let me throw unnecessary, fuel, Asus makes the best mobo, everyone else is garbage. Yes you are entitled to your opinion, but F your opinion. I am right if you do not agree with me it is because you use an inferior product and are jealous. Moreover, I have only owned 2 asus products in my lifetime or 20 years, so I have sufficient life experience to make this statement. Any that you claim are better, are clearly *copying* asus and have no originality. Any sites you link stating otherwise, are not reputable......hahahahaha I can't keep this up. These disputes over who is better are gold. End of the day it's personal preference, remember brand loyalty isn't something that can be bought.


----------



## greytoad

And ASRock is ASSRock. LOL.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> And EK is *not* a "budget" brand *unless you're purchasing a kit* or their Predator units.


----------



## Pej06

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maslows*
> 
> Ooh ooh, let me throw unnecessary, fuel, Asus makes the best mobo, everyone else is garbage. Yes you are entitled to your opinion, but F your opinion. I am right if you do not agree with me it is because you use an inferior product and are jealous. Moreover, I have only owned 2 asus products in my lifetime or 20 years, so I have sufficient life experience to make this statement. Any that you claim are better, are clearly *copying* asus and have no originality. Any sites you link stating otherwise, are not reputable......hahahahaha I can't keep this up. These disputes over who is better are gold. End of the day it's personal preference, remember brand loyalty isn't something that can be bought.


You are the "refferee"..Well a bit caustic..But nice try.
It's always the same song..ATI/Nvidia, Amd/Intel, PSXX/Xbox XX, EK/Alphacool etc...for years and you can't change that.
Also what means "Brand loyalty"...
You may "like" a brand more than others sometimes..but be loyal?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maslows*
> 
> *These disputes over who is better are gold. End of the day it's personal preference, remember brand loyalty isn't something that can be bought.*


*THIS!*

Honestly cannot disagree in any regard other than reviews.

For my personal taste it's EK.

Can't get an AC Monsta Rad into the tight confines of my 932...(Never thought I would say anything like this when I first got it) because with one bank of fans on it, it's simply too thick to fit the case.

My friend @wermad has a CaseLabs case and they fit nicely. But it's not happening with the 932. It would block off my 8pin/or one of my peripherals after the MB Tray mod is finished.









But EK fits, works well and looks good in my system.









I will say, that coming here and picking a fight because someone dare have an opinion on AC is ridiculous.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> And EK is *not* a "budget" brand *unless you're purchasing a kit* or their Predator units.
Click to expand...

I meant that in the best possible way.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greytoad*
> 
> I wasn't saying you were huffy. You weren't the one using inflammatory speech. My AX360 has a decent depth between the fan mount and the rad. It kinda removes the dead spot of the fan so I can see how that helps. Like I said it doesn't seem to respond to more than a certain amount of fan though. That could be because it's in the top of my loop. I don't have room for fill or drain ports really so I could have a huge air pocket in there. It takes a long time to get all the bubbles out of my system. .
> 
> muzammil84 is the one that seems prone to exaggeration and attack rather than reasonable discussion. Maybe I"m just reading him incorrectly. Tone is tough on the interwebs. EK rads seem like reasonable choices. I would exchange my ax360 for one if muzammil84 were to purchase it for me. (After he picks up TCO's tab)
> 
> edit: I remember why I went with the coolgate rather than the UT60. I thought I could have put a drain up to one of the extra ports on the G2. When I got it in my system there wasn't room.


OOOO, I have a coolgate 360mm rad too, it's served me very well for over a year and a bit now, well worth the cash I paid the paint has even stayed put. My monsta rad I bought from a member didn't survive postage though which was very disappointing but the XSPC xflow 360 did without any harm at all.


----------



## greytoad

I thought the caustic response was pretty good. He's saying the same thing you are. As long as we realize that all of these companies want to take our money for things we don't really need. Well... I kinda need gaming and overclocking in a deep down pit of my stomach sort of way, but it's not like eating or sleeping or shelter.


----------



## greytoad

mines a Coolgate G2 "Puncture-proof" Dual 120mm. It was listed on the invoice as copper plated, but I have the black one. That thing holds like 260ml of water about. I can't remember the exact amount, but I was surprised.

As far as holding up my EKWB water block on my video card I"d need a 126 0r 127mm post from my powersupply. Anyone else have experience doing this? .

my temp solution was clipping a small paint brush to length and wedging it there. PCB looks much better.


----------



## kl6mk6

Everyone has their own opinions and have their own experiences with different products. It's just sad to see a lot of unnecessary name calling and bear-poking going on. Post what you think and why, and even back it up with stories, anecdotes, or data if you can, but please try to be courteous.










!


----------



## greytoad

The post worked!! O dropped 30 degrees in firestrike Ultra. I'm running 1385 and 1.172 volts right now and only hitting 52 degrees in firestrike ultra. It was the bend in the PCB combined with the flow restriction. No need to re-TIM I guess.









Now to see how far I can take this. This is at my everyday low fan settings. I was at 85 in this test before adding the post with these settings!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Everyone has their own opinions and have their own experiences with different products. It's just sad to see a lot of unnecessary name calling and bear-poking going on. Post what you think and why, and even back it up with stories, anecdotes, or data if you can, but please try to be courteous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


It's always about the money.

TCO


----------



## akira749

OK guys I think that after nearly 50+ posts in a day about brand preferences we could now go back to our current program.

Every people is entitled to like and dislike a brand or part of it. It's a personal choice and it's all fine even here....but I think it's all good now. If you want to pursue this conversation, the best would probably to start a separate thread in the Water Cooling section.









Cheers everyone


----------



## greytoad

Here's my current overclock and temps after about 20 min of heaven with the support post on the EKWB block. 1470 stable. Not sure if I really want to add more voltage than this right now.



The voltage is actually set a little higher than GPUZ is reporting it fluctuates. I have "C:\Program Files (x86)\MSI Afterburner\MSIAfterburner.exe" /wi06,08,8d,1c set. 1c running.

That's a 189 mv offset. plus the 1150 = 1339. I'm not really willing to go higher than that for every day use.

Unless my maths are wrong?

edit: this is on an rx 480 reference with an EK full cover block.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Anyone know if there has been some testing on the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder how it performs compared to the EK-XTOP Dual D5 Serial
> 
> 
> 
> I allready have a EK-XTOP Dual D5 Serial which I love and it performs great. But I need a new dual top for my new rig


Only thing I could find was this review by fast_fate on Xtremerigs, which is for the single D5 version:
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/12/23/ek-xtop-revo-d5-pump-top-review/

I'd also like to see a comparison with the previous gen. EK Dual-D5 tops, I have a Gen. 2 EK Dual D5 top, (serial) which I'm still running.
But, based on the results of the single pump version tested, it looks like the previous-gen. D5 pump tops offer somewhat better performance than the XTOP Revo.

Rather sad to see a performance drop, but to quote the review summary:

*"The Revo D5 top is yet another great design from EK and we believe they chose the different aesthetics of a round top over pure performance offered in their previous CSQ and Rev.2 square shaped tops. At the end of the day the performance hit is minimal, but we do wish that the CSQ was still offered for those among us who want maximum performance from our cooling system components."*


----------



## AllGamer

if I didn't care for aesthetics I'd have gone for a Revo D5 as well, it was actually in my original build design, but then opted for 2 separate D5. just because of the plexi cover. LOL
















but performance wise, hell yeah the EK Revo D5 is the best thing out there for double D5 pumps setup.


----------



## Castaile

The problem with my revo d5 is I couldn't control the rpm at all (p8z77 4 pin cpu_header which is able to control EK's vardar fans). I have the 2nd gen and I have to leave it unplugged running 100%


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Rather sad to see a performance drop, but to quote the review summary:


Yeh - pretty much what FF measured with his single top test x2.

Drop is not that huge but it is a drop. I have tested this myself as I own both types and the CSQ variant is stronger - Although I don't have any recorded figures (was doing some quick tests for my Deja Vu build at the time).

BTW - Swiftech's MCP35X2 (DDC x2) is better yet again from a performance perspective.

Another mounting option which I knocked up:




Initially utilised the CSQ variant in my build:


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Only thing I could find was this review by fast_fate on Xtremerigs, which is for the single D5 version:
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/12/23/ek-xtop-revo-d5-pump-top-review/
> 
> I'd also like to see a comparison with the previous gen. EK Dual-D5 tops, I have a Gen. 2 EK Dual D5 top, (serial) which I'm still running.
> But, based on the results of the single pump version tested, it looks like the previous-gen. D5 pump tops offer somewhat better performance than the XTOP Revo.
> 
> Rather sad to see a performance drop, but to quote the review summary:
> 
> *"The Revo D5 top is yet another great design from EK and we believe they chose the different aesthetics of a round top over pure performance offered in their previous CSQ and Rev.2 square shaped tops. At the end of the day the performance hit is minimal, but we do wish that the CSQ was still offered for those among us who want maximum performance from our cooling system components."*


I read the review by fast_fate, great review by the way.







Maybe he is up for some testing later on? So i started looking around for the CSQ block but it seems like it's sold out everywhere.
Guess I'll get a dual Revo top to use in my old rig and move the CSQ top to my new build








But thanks for the help anyways.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Hi Crew,

Thank you all that replied in regards to my CPU block orientation dilemma. I was looking at removing all installed tubing, motherboard and cards to turn it around. The other option as mentioned was to remove the CPU block in situ, on the board, with the board installed.

I sat there with a rum and coke, looking at all the time spent getting tubing and fittings in place. Then it hit me, simply move the inlet and outlet fittings and tubing as such. I extended both tubes, cut and done. I actually prefer the new look with the tube height being raised to go over the other fitting.

I had to drain the loop anyway, after running the Mayhems Blitz part 2 through all new fittings and tubing. Amazing how much still come out of new Bitspower fittings, blocks etc.

The only thing I noted was because of the Supremacy Evo design, flow through the CPU block was very slow/stagnant. This has caused the plastic insert to go cloudy.

Trouble with building a loop with parts still coming in. My flow direction was set in my mind, but the build constraints changed it. Didnt pick it up with the CPU block initially.

After I changed the fittings, flow is awesome and the WHOLE system was easier to fill and bleed. Looks great wit the X-1 Red in it.

I ended up using the EK D5 round clear pump top and X3 reservoir. Glad I did. Fits the build perfectly.

Again thank you to all for your time and help.

Cheers

Rob


----------



## huckincharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huckincharlie*
> 
> so this is happening with my x99 monoblock, as you can see big "gap"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have separated loop for cpu and gpu. Water form pump is going straight to monoblock. When I shake case with pump on and get ride of all bubbles evertthing is fine till next switch on pc, again this nast gap. What am I doing wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p.s. it not my first watercooling build, but first with monoblock


anyone?


----------



## Kimir

Put the rig on the side, shake it, get all the bubble out of the loop.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Only thing I could find was this review by fast_fate on Xtremerigs, which is for the single D5 version:
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/12/23/ek-xtop-revo-d5-pump-top-review/
> 
> I'd also like to see a comparison with the previous gen. EK Dual-D5 tops, I have a Gen. 2 EK Dual D5 top, (serial) which I'm still running.
> But, based on the results of the single pump version tested, it looks like the previous-gen. D5 pump tops offer somewhat better performance than the XTOP Revo.
> 
> Rather sad to see a performance drop, but to quote the review summary:
> 
> *"The Revo D5 top is yet another great design from EK and we believe they chose the different aesthetics of a round top over pure performance offered in their previous CSQ and Rev.2 square shaped tops. At the end of the day the performance hit is minimal, but we do wish that the CSQ was still offered for those among us who want maximum performance from our cooling system components."*
> 
> 
> 
> I read the review by fast_fate, great review by the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe he is up for some testing later on? So i started looking around for the CSQ block but it seems like it's sold out everywhere.
> Guess I'll get a dual Revo top to use in my old rig and move the CSQ top to my new build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But thanks for the help anyways.
Click to expand...

You may have also seen this review from VSG at ThermalBench:
http://thermalbench.com/2016/06/15/ek-xtop-revo-d5-featuring-the-ek-d5-pwm-g2-pump/

Again, it is for the single-D5 version, seems that it comes to a similar conclusion.
Interesting quote from VSG:

*"There is a single dedicated inlet port and outlet port, and it would have been nice to have a second outlet port. But the motor can be rotated easily to have the outlet port face the direction desired so this is not a deal breaker. The top performance was slightly lacking relative to the top it directly replaced, although this is not really going to have a significant practical effect."*

Personally I like the EK CSQ dual-D5 top the best, (crop circles notwithstanding, lol),as it had more inlet/outlet port options, and a better mounting system compared to my Gen. 2 version. As for the Revo, idk if I would want to make the switch just yet, but if you need a new one that's the only choice from EK now.


----------



## ListenerFan

I've posted this on reddit before, and EK even put it on facebook! But here is my current build, it's always being tinkered with due to it's very handbuilt nature lol. I need to get some actual good pictures of it! Also I know I mention soap in the loop in the video, the situation is rectified, there is no air in the loop and things are working as they should!


----------



## huckincharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Put the rig on the side, shake it, get all the bubble out of the loop.


here
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huckincharlie*
> 
> When I shake case with pump on and get ride of all bubbles evertthing is fine till next switch on pc, again this nast gap.


----------



## Kimir

Because the air is still trapped in the loop, when the bubbles are out of the rads and block, open the res to let it escape. Repeat til no more bubbles are formed.


----------



## Kutalion

Indeed you need an open exit point for the air. Then add a bit of water to replace the air. Changing pump speeds also helps the process.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ListenerFan*
> 
> I've posted this on reddit before, and EK even put it on facebook! But here is my current build, it's always being tinkered with due to it's very handbuilt nature lol. I need to get some actual good pictures of it! Also I know I mention soap in the loop in the video, the situation is rectified, there is no air in the loop and things are working as they should!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Vid


Love the Copper and wood frame, would definitely like to see some more pictures. Definitely a scratch build that deserves its own thread.









I have one small point of critique though, I don't think the Noctuas suit the case at all, they kinda ruin your beautiful work.

Imo, there's only one place for brown and tan Noctua fans, hidden away in a closed case where no one can see them.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huckincharlie*
> 
> so this is happening with my x99 monoblock, as you can see big "gap"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have separated loop for cpu and gpu. Water form pump is going straight to monoblock. When I shake case with pump on and get ride of all bubbles evertthing is fine till next switch on pc, again this nast gap. What am I doing wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p.s. it not my first watercooling build, but first with monoblock


Need more pics of stuff like your res (whole loop)

If the bubbles keep reappearing after you get rid of then odds are your res is too small.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> does anybody have some testing results between the J1/J2 jet plates in the supremacy EVO?


I don't sorry
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *greytoad*
> 
> I wasn't saying you were huffy. You weren't the one using inflammatory speech. My AX360 has a decent depth between the fan mount and the rad. It kinda removes the dead spot of the fan so I can see how that helps. Like I said it doesn't seem to respond to more than a certain amount of fan though. That could be because it's in the top of my loop. I don't have room for fill or drain ports really so I could have a huge air pocket in there. It takes a long time to get all the bubbles out of my system. .
> 
> muzammil84 is the one that seems prone to exaggeration and attack rather than reasonable discussion. Maybe I"m just reading him incorrectly. Tone is tough on the interwebs. EK rads seem like reasonable choices. I would exchange my ax360 for one if muzammil84 were to purchase it for me. (After he picks up TCO's tab)
> 
> edit: I remember why I went with the coolgate rather than the UT60. I thought I could have put a drain up to one of the extra ports on the G2. When I got it in my system there wasn't room.
> 
> 
> 
> OOOO, I have a coolgate 360mm rad too, it's served me very well for over a year and a bit now, well worth the cash I paid the paint has even stayed put. My monsta rad I bought from a member didn't survive postage though which was very disappointing but the XSPC xflow 360 did without any harm at all.
Click to expand...

what ever happened to that company they just kind disappeared


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huckincharlie*
> 
> anyone?


Dunno what your fill port looks like, but if you have a cut off valve attach it to the top of your fill port. next fill your funnel with coolant while the pump is running and open that cut-off valve.

It will probably suck in some of the extra water that's in the funnel, that's fine. leave the valve open for a while and let the loop run. *BE SURE TO CLOSE THE CUT OFF VALVE BEFORE YOU SHUT OFF THE PUMP* If you don't, your funnel will do it's best impression of a whale and spray water straight up into the air and all over the place.

After a few hours of running open. close the valve, and turn the pump off. *SLOWLY* open the valve until you hear some noise, then quickly close it. repeat until no more noise is heard when you open the valve.

Now close it all off.

repeat as necessary.

Like someone said earlier, your reservoir is too small or your pump is set too strong, one of the two because the pump is pulling hard enough to overcome the rise of the bubbles.

What the method I described above does is make the funnel effectively part of the reservoir and lets the loop over-fill itself. the extra pressure helps force out the air. Once the extra pressure to remove the air is no longer needed, you will be able to release the extra pressure without allowing any air back into the loop.


----------



## Mega Man

Air is good. You want some in your res. ( the top ) it allows water to expand and contract. You don't want a loop that can't expand


----------



## AllGamer

Is it possible to mix a clear liquid to look white, but while remaining transparent?

like the EK Blood Red, but I want something like EK White Clear, instead of EK White Pastel.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Is it possible to mix a clear liquid to look white, but while remaining transparent?
> 
> like the EK Blood Red, but I want something like EK White Clear, instead of EK White Pastel.


Dillute the coolant with distilled or a clear coolant. If memory serves EK has a clear coolant in their lineup. Only compatability should be a concern.









~Ceadder


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Dillute the coolant with distilled or a clear coolant. If memory serves EK has a clear coolant in their lineup. Only compatability should be a concern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


they do have, but it's fully transparent , not "white" transparent.

I was thinking of mixing EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR (concentrate 100mL) + EK-Ekoolant Pastel WHITE (concentrate 250mL) to get a light transparent white

hoping to get like a semi-transparent milk like liquid

like when you mix milk with water, not sure if it will come out like that.


----------



## AllGamer

Are any of you using those 5mm and 3mm LED on the EK parts?

I was going through at lot of builds pictures and noticed or rather not noticed the wires

So, I was pondering where, or how are you people hiding those LED wires?


----------



## AllGamer

Are PETG tubes compatible with compression fittings?

Like heat the end of the tube so it's soft, jam in the compression fitting as you'd with the soft tubes, then stays locked in when it cools back down?


----------



## Kimir

compression fittings that are designed for soft tubing are not compatible with any kind of rigid tubing, including PETG.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> they do have, but it's fully transparent , not "white" transparent.
> 
> I was thinking of mixing EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR (concentrate 100mL) + EK-Ekoolant Pastel WHITE (concentrate 250mL) to get a light transparent white
> 
> hoping to get like a semi-transparent milk like liquid
> 
> like when you mix milk with water, not sure if it will come out like that.


The Mayhems Pastel Extreme White can be diluted with up to 3.5 liters of water. This should give you the look you are going for.








http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-pastel-extreme-white-100ml.html


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> they do have, but it's fully transparent , not "white" transparent.
> 
> I was thinking of mixing EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR (concentrate 100mL) + EK-Ekoolant Pastel WHITE (concentrate 250mL) to get a light transparent white
> 
> hoping to get like a semi-transparent milk like liquid
> 
> like when you mix milk with water, not sure if it will come out like that.


You can't mix EVO coolant and Pastel. It's 2 different coolants that don't work together.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Are PETG tubes compatible with compression fittings?
> 
> Like heat the end of the tube so it's soft, jam in the compression fitting as you'd with the soft tubes, then stays locked in when it cools back down?


It's compatible with the EK-HDC fittings


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You can't mix EVO coolant and Pastel. It's 2 different coolants that don't work together.


Thanks for the heads up


----------



## AllGamer

I was looking a the TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 19,1 / 12,7 mm - Crystal Clear RETAIL 3m and it says:

*Note: Retail packaging does not include a 15mL bottle of Sys Prep Cooling Loop Pre-Treatment Concentrate!*

What does the Sys Prep Pre-Treatment do in the Loop?

I guess my question is, is it really necessary to Pre Treat the loop before we use it, if I'm to use the EK-Ekoolant EVO liquids?


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Air is good. You want some in your res. ( the top ) it allows water to expand and contract. You don't want a loop that can't expand


You realize that going from 20 C to 40 C only increases the volume of water by 1.4% right? If you have a gallon of fluid in your loop, that means the temp rise will be equivalent to adding a little less than 2 ounces of water.

Having a loop with no air in it at all is not problematic in the least.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> You realize that going from 20 C to 40 C only increases the volume of water by 1.4% right? If you have a gallon of fluid in your loop, that means the temp rise will be equivalent to adding a little less than 2 ounces of water.
> 
> Having a loop with no air in it at all is not problematic in the least.


Thats what i thought but didnt wanna say anything lol. Lots of people run without a res and without any air at all and it seems to work fine.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> I was looking a the TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 19,1 / 12,7 mm - Crystal Clear RETAIL 3m and it says:
> 
> *Note: Retail packaging does not include a 15mL bottle of Sys Prep Cooling Loop Pre-Treatment Concentrate!*
> 
> What does the Sys Prep Pre-Treatment do in the Loop?
> 
> I guess my question is, is it really necessary to Pre Treat the loop before we use it, if I'm to use the EK-Ekoolant EVO liquids?


I never used SysPrep in my loops.









It's not necessary


----------



## Snaporz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> I was looking a the TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 19,1 / 12,7 mm - Crystal Clear RETAIL 3m and it says:
> 
> *Note: Retail packaging does not include a 15mL bottle of Sys Prep Cooling Loop Pre-Treatment Concentrate!*
> 
> What does the Sys Prep Pre-Treatment do in the Loop?
> 
> I guess my question is, is it really necessary to Pre Treat the loop before we use it, if I'm to use the EK-Ekoolant EVO liquids?


I used Mayhems Blitz Pro cleaning system in my 360 & 480 EK rads. Phase 1 removed a TON of gunk and particles. I was pretty amazing how dirty the radiators are inside straight from the factory. Part 1 is definitely worth it on new stuff. I also did part 2 in my system mainly to make sure everything from part 1 was removed even though I rinsed part 1 out very well. I'm extremely satisfied with both products and if I switch from Mayhems Extreme White Pastel I will run part 2 through my loop again to clean out all of the remnants.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> compression fittings that are designed for soft tubing are not compatible with any kind of rigid tubing, including PETG.


Not to be argumentative or anything of the sort, but...

Rigid tubing fittings are also considered compression fittings. The difference being that one has an ID barb for flex and the other does not.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not to be argumentative or anything of the sort, but...
> 
> Rigid tubing fittings are also considered compression fittings. The difference being that one has an ID barb for flex and the other does not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hence my sentence specifically mentioning "designed for soft tubing".


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not to be argumentative or anything of the sort, but...
> 
> Rigid tubing fittings are also considered compression fittings. The difference being that one has an ID barb for flex and the other does not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hence my sentence specifically mentioning "designed for soft tubing".
Click to expand...

Yeah I get it. But unfortunately it was half an answer and could be confusing to the rookies.









~Ceadder


----------



## looniam

on the other hand, whats wrong with not completely filling the reservoir?

derp: didn't hit reply but maybe still know what i am asking . . .


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> on the other hand, whats wrong with not completely filling the reservoir?
> 
> derp: didn't hit reply but maybe still know what i am asking . . .


Maybe not necessarily filling the reservoir, but more rather having the water line above the inlet of fluid.

When You have a water line in the reservoir that is lower than the flowing inlet tube, you break the surface tension of the water, thus introducing air into your loop.

Whereas, if you have the waterline above the flowing inlet tube, you never break surface tension and any air that is in the loop simply rises to the top of the waterline, and in turn, remove the air from the flowing fluid.




If the waterline in this video was above the tube in the res, you then have the ability to remove the air in the loop. (That's my Opinion)

Something I noticed in my S3.

TCO


----------



## Radnad

You should always completely fill the res, no reason to have any head space at all. Anything less is just tacky imo.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> on the other hand, whats wrong with not completely filling the reservoir?
> 
> derp: didn't hit reply but maybe still know what i am asking . . .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> You should always completely fill the res, no reason to have any head space at all. Anything less is *just tacky imo.*


That's your answer?









TCO


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> on the other hand, whats wrong with not completely filling the reservoir?
> 
> derp: didn't hit reply but maybe still know what i am asking . . .
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> You should always completely fill the res, no reason to have any head space at all. Anything less is *just tacky imo.*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's your answer?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Yes, and I'm sticking to it!


----------



## looniam

thanks TCO.
i guess tacky suits my personality.









seriously the only thing that is . . tacky is the condensate that builds up on the side facing my inlet case fans.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Yes, and I'm sticking to it!













Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> thanks TCO.
> i guess tacky suits my personality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> seriously the only thing that is . . tacky is the condensate that builds up on the side facing my inlet case fans.


Hope it helped.









I tried









TCO


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I get it. But unfortunately it was half an answer and could be confusing to the rookies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have a tendency to do that at times. Like answer with a simple yes without even quoting (while being on pc, no excuse of being on phone) on an elaborate question; I know.


----------



## looniam

yeah it helped. the vid reminded me of a deaerating feed tank, was a boiler tech in the navy (though BTs are MMs again). maybe the guy though he was making one but forgot the steam.









E:
so yeah that experience gets me to think i know something, then i remember all the brain cells i've killed since.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> yeah it helped. the vid reminded me of a deaerating feed tank, was a boiler tech in the navy (though BTs are MMs again). maybe the guy though he was making one but forgot the steam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> E:
> so yeah that experience gets me to think i know something, then i remember all the brain cells i've killed since.


Im glad it brought back some memories.









Though, That was my build, and I didn't forget the steam. I promise.







It's actually the computer I am typing to you on from work.

TCO


----------



## nzphil

Does Ek sell the D5 pump bracket (holder) with the rubber ring separately, meaning not with a pump?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzphil*
> 
> Does Ek sell the D5 pump bracket (holder) with the rubber ring separately, meaning not with a pump?


They do.
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/revo-d5-decoupler-soft
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical
the holder comes with the top only I think.
If that's what you mean.


----------



## nzphil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> They do.
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/revo-d5-decoupler-soft
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical
> the holder comes with the top only I think.
> If that's what you mean.


As far as I can tell that doesn't include the plastic part. That's only the inside rubber ring and then a bracket to mount the holder I want onto. Thanks though.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> yeah it helped. the vid reminded me of a deaerating feed tank, was a boiler tech in the navy (though BTs are MMs again). maybe the guy though he was making one but forgot the steam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> E:
> so yeah that experience gets me to think i know something, then i remember all the brain cells i've killed since.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im glad it brought back some memories.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though, That was my build, and I didn't forget the steam. I promise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's actually the computer I am typing to you on from work.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

instead of The Division, you ought to call it Mr. Clean.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> You realize that going from 20 C to 40 C only increases the volume of water by 1.4% right? If you have a gallon of fluid in your loop, that means the temp rise will be equivalent to adding a little less than 2 ounces of water.
> 
> Having a loop with no air in it at all is not problematic in the least.
> 
> 
> 
> Thats what i thought but didnt wanna say anything lol. Lots of people run without a res and without any air at all and it seems to work fine.
Click to expand...

While it usually does not matter. Blanket statements like that are very poor choices.

My loops ( multiple ) take 2-4 gal and I know of people (and eventually i want to do one ) that do geothermal pcs with alot more water then that.

Either way I would rather have the extra room then not
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> on the other hand, whats wrong with not completely filling the reservoir?
> 
> derp: didn't hit reply but maybe still know what i am asking . . .


none at all again above the inlet level preferred (or a big enough res that it does not matter )


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> instead of The Division, you ought to call it Mr. Clean.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What Can I say? After I got out the Navy, I kept it clean. Just cheaper to maintain. 1 time buy for a pair of Walh Clippers. Boom. Haven't paid for a haircut since 2010.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

$10 for a high an tight Gibbs style where I live.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

I pay $28 for a hair cut w/ beard trim, shampoo(w/ hot towel) and back massage. Completely worth it too


----------



## Ceadderman

Not bad but I don't need the rub from my Barber.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I pay $28 for a hair cut w/ beard trim, shampoo(w/ hot towel) and back massage. Completely worth it too


And then you have crazy guys like me that if they even go near my beard they hear the words "touch my goatee and you aren't getting paid", but I only ever get just a haircut so don't have to worry about that


----------



## maslows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I pay $28 for a hair cut w/ beard trim, shampoo(w/ hot towel) and back massage. Completely worth it too


I was the same way until my barbers assistant "rubbed me down"


----------



## fitzy-775

Hey guys just bought some parts for my first loop and I bought a EK res x3 150. I want to use the top for an inlet, and want to know what other parts i will need to make that happen?


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What Can I say? After I got out the Navy, I kept it clean. Just cheaper to maintain. 1 time buy for a pair of Walh Clippers. Boom. Haven't paid for a haircut since 2010.
> 
> TCO


The Clean One









Meanwhile, I finished my first loop. All EK except tube & res











Should have gone with red dye... But I'll change that when I go hardline in the future


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> You should always completely fill the res, no reason to have any head space at all. Anything less is just tacky imo.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Maybe not necessarily filling the reservoir, but more rather having the water line above the inlet of fluid.
> 
> When You have a water line in the reservoir that is lower than the flowing inlet tube, you break the surface tension of the water, thus introducing air into your loop.
> 
> Whereas, if you have the waterline above the flowing inlet tube, you never break surface tension and any air that is in the loop simply rises to the top of the waterline, and in turn, remove the air from the flowing fluid.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the waterline in this video was above the tube in the res, you then have the ability to remove the air in the loop. (That's my Opinion)
> 
> Something I noticed in my S3.
> 
> TCO


I've built 2 loops now with full tube reservoirs and once the air has been flushed out the tubes were topped up and everything has been fine, one is a smallish res the other 240mm, air will get sucked back in if the inlet is pumping loads of bubbles into the pump inlet either way. So I agree with Radnad.

EDIT: I will say though, if you fill the res completely without a tiny air gap and your system gets too hot the fluid with expand due to heat and you run the risk of it creating a leak due to increased pressure.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> Hey guys just bought some parts for my first loop and I bought a EK res x3 150. I want to use the top for an inlet, and want to know what other parts i will need to make that happen?


It would be nice to get this : EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP

This way you can have the return line in the top of the reservoir and also have a fillport.









You could also grab this with your multiport top : EK-RES X3 - Internal Tube 12/16 40mm

It's not mandatory, but it help to prevent unnecessary splash inside the tube reservoir by the return line.


----------



## AllGamer

*@akira749*

The EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel is out of stock again









I'm so close to finalizing my parts order list.
I only need to make up my mind which type of Tube and Fittings I want to use, then I can finalize the order.

I was actually thinking of mixing PETG for the visually visible areas, and Soft Tubing for the non visible areas, like inside the S8 Pedestal,
but then I figured, if i'm going to be hiding the tubes, like we do with wires,
then might as well use Soft Tube for everything and that will make it easier to run the tubes along the case edges and sides, and hide them behind the rads.

Deciding how I'll run the tubes, will affect which type of fittings I'll need, for the type of tubes I'll be using...


----------



## DarthBaggins

D you have a MicroCenter near you? (That's if you're stateside)


----------



## BornEvil

Here is my little effort (more pictures in build log in signature):


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> D you have a MicroCenter near you? (That's if you're stateside)


I wish, I'm in Canada

Microcenter was here for a shot while a many many years back (10+ years ago), they closed down business after a couple of years, not enough business I guess.
mah, same thing happened to Kmart, Radioshack, Target, etc...
Not many businesses survives long here, except Walmart and Home Depot, these two spreads out like rabbits.

For computer parts I can get them easy, but not for Watercooling stuff, is not as popular on this side of the border.


----------



## Kviisten

Hey! So I'm more or less new to custom loop watercooling and have just put together my new build (except for the 1080 waterblock I'm waiting for







). I've run into a sort of snag whereas the temps of my CPU are very high. I'm pretty sure the temps aren't supposed to be what they are.

Specs that I'm watercooling:

i7 6700k
EVGA GTX 1080 Classified (don't have block yet)

Watercooling equipment is:

Watercool Heatkiller IV

EK-CoolStream XE 240
EK-CoolStream PE 360
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM

Using distilled water with EK-Ekoolant EVO Clear

The temperature of the CPU at stock speeds will go up to about 70 degrees at 100% load. I'm pretty sure that temperature is way too high for a watercooled stock speed CPU. I've also done a slight bit of overclocking, as much as I can with the cooling issue atleast, and with the speeds set to 4.6ghz at 1.35 voltage the temps go up to 90 ish at full load. To combat the issue I've changed thermal paste without success and I'm not really sure what else to do. Temps don't move at all whether I set fans to 40% or 100%.

I've no idea what the issue is... The only thing I can think of is that the pump is too weak, that or I've done something very wrong. Any help concerning this issue would be great.

Apologize if this is the wrong thread to post in but since my build is mostly EK stuff and I'm kind of desperate I was drawn here because of the title









Thanks!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kviisten*
> 
> Hey! So I'm more or less new to custom loop watercooling and have just put together my new build (except for the 1080 waterblock I'm waiting for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I've run into a sort of snag whereas the temps of my CPU are very high. I'm pretty sure the temps aren't supposed to be what they are.
> 
> Specs that I'm watercooling:
> 
> i7 6700k
> EVGA GTX 1080 Classified (don't have block yet)
> 
> Watercooling equipment is:
> 
> Watercool Heatkiller IV
> 
> EK-CoolStream XE 240
> EK-CoolStream PE 360
> EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
> 
> Using distilled water with EK-Ekoolant EVO Clear
> 
> The temperature of the CPU at stock speeds will go up to about 70 degrees at 100% load. I'm pretty sure that temperature is way too high for a watercooled stock speed CPU. I've also done a slight bit of overclocking, as much as I can with the cooling issue atleast, and with the speeds set to 4.6ghz at 1.35 voltage the temps go up to 90 ish at full load. To combat the issue I've changed thermal paste without success and I'm not really sure what else to do. Temps don't move at all whether I set fans to 40% or 100%.
> 
> I've no idea what the issue is... The only thing I can think of is that the pump is too weak, that or I've done something very wrong. Any help concerning this issue would be great.
> 
> Apologize if this is the wrong thread to post in but since my build is mostly EK stuff and I'm kind of desperate I was drawn here because of the title
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Can you post a pic of the loop? Have you checked speed the pump is running and sure the loop is bled? Double check in and out ports are correct, and redo TIM.

Yes those temps are not quite right.


----------



## mcspawnagain

what program are you using to check temps ?
that is extreme for that build


----------



## AllGamer

Is there some sort of temperature probe that can connect directly to a motherboard or USB to report temperature?

all the ones I've found on many watercooling sites are only to connect to those 5.25 bay displays, or standalone temp displays.

I prefer to be able to monitor these things from the OS / BIOS via software.


----------



## Kviisten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Can you post a pic of the loop? Have you checked speed the pump is running and sure the loop is bled? Double check in and out ports are correct, and redo TIM.
> 
> Yes those temps are not quite right.


Sorry for the slow response, I was in the middle of replying when a lightbulb lit up above my head and I thought to myself "I didn't ****ing put the inlets correct did I" and here I am, in the dining room with the PC on the table bleeding the loop. The loop went from the outlet port of the pump to the outlet port of the CPU block.

I've switched the inlet and outlet on the CPU block now.

In a way I hope this was the problem and in a way I don't seeing as I feel like an idiot.. I'll update when I plug it all back in, sorry for the stupidity on my part haha!

Thanks!


----------



## nzphil

Haha an easy mistake. Let's hope that's sorted it!


----------



## Kviisten

Alright. I've gone and benchmarked stock speeds and the same overclock I had before. It's better but I'll need your opinions on it. I used 3 different monitor programs and they all showed different on the benchmarks. I used Asus AI Suite 3, NZXT Cam and HWMonitor. Any suggestions to what programs I should use to monitor would be nice.

The first test at 4.6ghz 1.35 voltage was odd since I got 3 different temps from 3 different programs (all running at the same time).

Asus AI Suite: *67* degrees
NZXT Cam: *75* degrees
HWMonitor: *80* degrees

The second test at 4ghz 1.28 voltage ended up being:

Asus AI Suite: *58* degrees
NZXT Cam: Crashed during but last number was *65* degrees I think
HWMonitor: *70* degrees

So the numbers are a bit odd and clearly one of the programs is lying to me. Not sure which one to believe. I have an Asus Z170 Deluxe motherboard, if that makes much of a difference.

Thanks!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Is there some sort of temperature probe that can connect directly to a motherboard or USB to report temperature?
> 
> all the ones I've found on many watercooling sites are only to connect to those 5.25 bay displays, or standalone temp displays.
> 
> I prefer to be able to monitor these things from the OS / BIOS via software.


So long as you're running an Enthusiast board there should be 2 pin connections on it. My SigRig has 3 channels and I can view them through PC Probe II. My Dell has none. So I will be modding the top flip door to accept a couple displays since I will be pulling the Drive cage out and replacing it with a 140.









Your RoG board has the 2pin connections btw, so any 2pin probe will work. From Ring Probes to Ribbon Probes. Should have zero issues getting them to work with your board.









~Ceadder


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kviisten*
> 
> Alright. I've gone and benchmarked stock speeds and the same overclock I had before. It's better but I'll need your opinions on it. I used 3 different monitor programs and they all showed different on the benchmarks. I used Asus AI Suite 3, NZXT Cam and HWMonitor. Any suggestions to what programs I should use to monitor would be nice.
> 
> The first test at 4.6ghz 1.35 voltage was odd since I got 3 different temps from 3 different programs (all running at the same time).
> 
> Asus AI Suite: *67* degrees
> NZXT Cam: *75* degrees
> HWMonitor: *80* degrees
> 
> The second test at 4ghz 1.28 voltage ended up being:
> 
> Asus AI Suite: *58* degrees
> NZXT Cam: Crashed during but last number was *65* degrees I think
> HWMonitor: *70* degrees
> 
> So the numbers are a bit odd and clearly one of the programs is lying to me. Not sure which one to believe. I have an Asus Z170 Deluxe motherboard, if that makes much of a difference.
> 
> Thanks!


The Asus AI Suite is known to have inaccurate temp readings. I'd throw that one out.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So long as you're running an Enthusiast board there should be 2 pin connections on it. My SigRig has 3 channels and I can view them through PC Probe II. My Dell has none. So I will be modding the top flip door to accept a couple displays since I will be pulling the Drive cage out and replacing it with a 140.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your RoG board has the 2pin connections btw, so any 2pin probe will work. From Ring Probes to Ribbon Probes. Should have zero issues getting them to work with your board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


LMAO







OMG! that's what it's for...

Thank you,

I just learned something new today, LOL









It's jammed in between two fan connectors, so I never even noticed it, until you mentioned it.



Althought the watercooler build is not really for my existing rig.

I'm building a brand new machine using the GA-Z170X-Gaming G1

now let me dig through that new board to see if it has it build in.

It's definitely an enthusiast motherboard, since it has all the best feature I want + stock water channel for the VRMs

--- EDIT ---

ohh... this is sweet, I just noticed the stock VRM water block, also cools the south chipset too


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So long as you're running an Enthusiast board there should be 2 pin connections on it. My SigRig has 3 channels and I can view them through PC Probe II. My Dell has none. So I will be modding the top flip door to accept a couple displays since I will be pulling the Drive cage out and replacing it with a 140.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your RoG board has the 2pin connections btw, so any 2pin probe will work. From Ring Probes to Ribbon Probes. Should have zero issues getting them to work with your board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LMAO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OMG! that's what it's for...
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> I just learned something new today, LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's jammed in between two fan connectors, so I never even noticed it, until you mentioned it.
> 
> 
> 
> Althought the watercooler build is not really for my existing rig.
> 
> I'm building a brand new machine using the GA-Z170X-Gaming G1
> 
> now let me dig through that new board to see if it has it build in.
> 
> It's definitely an enthusiast motherboard, since it has all the best feature I want + stock water channel for the VRMs
> 
> --- EDIT ---
> 
> ohh... this is sweet, I just noticed the stock VRM water block, also cools the south chipset too
Click to expand...











~Ceadder


----------



## Kviisten

After a bit more testing that it seems the temps are still bad.. Well I don't know what to do anymore so any ideas again would be great.. sitting idle in the main menu of Dragon Age Inquisition had temps at about 70 - 75 and running benchmark again it got up to 93 degrees. This was with the 4.6ghz 1.35 voltage overclock. Something is really wrong and I can't for the life of me figure it out.

Here's the loop before I switched the CPU outlet and inlet so just ignore that


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kviisten*
> 
> After a bit more testing that it seems the temps are still bad.. Well I don't know what to do anymore so any ideas again would be great.. sitting idle in the main menu of Dragon Age Inquisition had temps at about 70 - 75 and running benchmark again it got up to 93 degrees. This was with the 4.6ghz 1.35 voltage overclock. Something is really wrong and I can't for the life of me figure it out.
> Here's the loop before I switched the CPU outlet and inlet so just ignore that


Could be the 1080 Classy breathing heat onto the tube. Also are the fans actually rotating? XD


----------



## Kviisten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> Could be the 1080 Classy breathing heat onto the tube. Also are the fans actually rotating? XD


I'm sure, the fans go up to 2400 rpm when the cpu hits 70 degrees and it sounds like an airplane in here, I'm about as sure as you can get.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Anybody know if EK charges your card right away for pre-orders or if they only charge when the item ships? I bought a Pascal TITAN X and i'm going to be getting a 2nd one; but i won't have enough money for both the 2nd card and the blocks for a week or two. So i'm trying to decide what to get first, the water blocks + terminal etc.. or the 2nd GPU.

I don't want to end up waiting for a long time due to stock running out on the blocks either though, so i'd like to order them now, just curious if it will charge my card right away or not, so i'll know roughly how much i'll have in my account till the 16th when they ship. Not sure when places like performance-pcs will be getting them and i'd like to get my TITAN XP off of the high 80's temps as soon as possible lol.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What Can I say? After I got out the Navy, I kept it clean. Just cheaper to maintain. 1 time buy for a pair of Walh Clippers. Boom. Haven't paid for a haircut since 2010.
> 
> TCO


TCO, sorry off topic but how long where you in the Navy and what rate?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kviisten*
> 
> After a bit more testing that it seems the temps are still bad.. Well I don't know what to do anymore so any ideas again would be great.. sitting idle in the main menu of Dragon Age Inquisition had temps at about 70 - 75 and running benchmark again it got up to 93 degrees. This was with the 4.6ghz 1.35 voltage overclock. Something is really wrong and I can't for the life of me figure it out.
> 
> Here's the loop before I switched the CPU outlet and inlet so just ignore that
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Well I would change the loop runs like this, although I don't think that is causing your issue, it just looks better imo. pump > front rad > top rad > cpu > res



have you checked the pump speed and reapplied the TIM?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@akira749*
> 
> The EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel is out of stock again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm so close to finalizing my parts order list.
> I only need to make up my mind which type of Tube and Fittings I want to use, then I can finalize the order.
> 
> I was actually thinking of mixing PETG for the visually visible areas, and Soft Tubing for the non visible areas, like inside the S8 Pedestal,
> but then I figured, if i'm going to be hiding the tubes, like we do with wires,
> then might as well use Soft Tube for everything and that will make it easier to run the tubes along the case edges and sides, and hide them behind the rads.
> 
> Deciding how I'll run the tubes, will affect which type of fittings I'll need, for the type of tubes I'll be using...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> D you have a MicroCenter near you? (That's if you're stateside)
> 
> 
> 
> I wish, I'm in Canada
> 
> Microcenter was here for a shot while a many many years back (10+ years ago), they closed down business after a couple of years, not enough business I guess.
> mah, same thing happened to Kmart, Radioshack, Target, etc...
> Not many businesses survives long here, except Walmart and Home Depot, these two spreads out like rabbits.
> 
> For computer parts I can get them easy, but not for Watercooling stuff, is not as popular on this side of the border.
Click to expand...

Dazmode has them in stock:
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/ek-supremacy-evo-full-nickel/
They also have the CSQ version:
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/ek-supremacy-evo-full-nickel-original-csq/

I purchased mine from Daz, along with the naked die kit.


----------



## buellersdayoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kviisten*
> 
> Alright. I've gone and benchmarked stock speeds and the same overclock I had before. It's better but I'll need your opinions on it. I used 3 different monitor programs and they all showed different on the benchmarks. I used Asus AI Suite 3, NZXT Cam and HWMonitor. Any suggestions to what programs I should use to monitor would be nice.
> 
> The first test at 4.6ghz 1.35 voltage was odd since I got 3 different temps from 3 different programs (all running at the same time).
> 
> Asus AI Suite: *67* degrees
> NZXT Cam: *75* degrees
> HWMonitor: *80* degrees
> 
> The second test at 4ghz 1.28 voltage ended up being:
> 
> Asus AI Suite: *58* degrees
> NZXT Cam: Crashed during but last number was *65* degrees I think
> HWMonitor: *70* degrees
> 
> So the numbers are a bit odd and clearly one of the programs is lying to me. Not sure which one to believe. I have an Asus Z170 Deluxe motherboard, if that makes much of a difference.
> 
> Thanks!


Try HWinfo64 and look for core package, this program will also show the other readouts from the other sensors like cpu under the Asus MB section (fan speeds in bios and AI suite use this one)
Also if your temp jump up quickly with load your block may have poor contact with cpu (assuming paste job is adequate). That block in your pics looks like it could be resting on some caps on the left hand side, preventing good contact. Good luck


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buellersdayoff*
> 
> Try HWinfo64 and look for core package, this program will also show the other readouts from the other sensors like cpu under the Asus MB section (fan speeds in bios and AI suite use this one)
> Also if your temp jump up quickly with load your block may have poor contact with cpu (assuming paste job is adequate). That block in your pics looks like it could be resting on some caps on the left hand side, preventing good contact. Good luck


If you run these together they don't give accurate results. You should only run 1 monitor at a time.
I like HWmonitor because it gives the highest results and I don't like frying my chip...
Also, I have an EVGA mobo that shows CPU package temps on the board and it's really close to what hwmonitor is telling me, so I believe it.
Some monitors need you to enter TJ max to get accurate monitoring.

Hope this helps!









ps: I'm straying from EK kit with a new res (aquatube) and a new rad (xspc - it's crossflow), but I did buy a new nano block from EK








Put it together today.


----------



## Kviisten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Well I would change the loop runs like this, although I don't think that is causing your issue, it just looks better imo. pump > front rad > top rad > cpu > res
> 
> 
> 
> have you checked the pump speed and reapplied the TIM?


I agree with your thoughts on the tubing however as I'll be addig a GPU wasterblock from EK when they release it the tubing will have to look like this anyway.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buellersdayoff*
> 
> Try HWinfo64 and look for core package, this program will also show the other readouts from the other sensors like cpu under the Asus MB section (fan speeds in bios and AI suite use this one)
> Also if your temp jump up quickly with load your block may have poor contact with cpu (assuming paste job is adequate). That block in your pics looks like it could be resting on some caps on the left hand side, preventing good contact. Good luck


It seems you are right about the block. However makeshift my method was I used a small sheet of paper to try and get under the block and it wouldn't go past the caps. This seems to be the problem. I didn't want to use an EK block since I don't really (I hate them) like the aesthetics of them. If anyone knows if the EK Supremacy EVO block fits my Asus Z170 Deluxe that would be great!


----------



## buellersdayoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kviisten*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Well I would change the loop runs like this, although I don't think that is causing your issue, it just looks better imo. pump > front rad > top rad > cpu > res
> 
> 
> 
> have you checked the pump speed and reapplied the TIM?
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with your thoughts on the tubing however as I'll be addig a GPU wasterblock from EK when they release it the tubing will have to look like this anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *buellersdayoff*
> 
> Try HWinfo64 and look for core package, this program will also show the other readouts from the other sensors like cpu under the Asus MB section (fan speeds in bios and AI suite use this one)
> Also if your temp jump up quickly with load your block may have poor contact with cpu (assuming paste job is adequate). That block in your pics looks like it could be resting on some caps on the left hand side, preventing good contact. Good luck
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It seems you are right about the block. However makeshift my method was I used a small sheet of paper to try and get under the block and it wouldn't go past the caps. This seems to be the problem. I didn't want to use an EK block since I don't really (I hate them) like the aesthetics of them. If anyone knows if the EK Supremacy EVO block fits my Asus Z170 Deluxe that would be great!
Click to expand...

Could try rotating the block 90°


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> I wish, I'm in Canada
> 
> Microcenter was here for a shot while a many many years back (10+ years ago), they closed down business after a couple of years, not enough business I guess.
> mah, same thing happened to Kmart, Radioshack, Target, etc...
> Not many businesses survives long here, except Walmart and Home Depot, these two spreads out like rabbits.
> 
> For computer parts I can get them easy, but not for Watercooling stuff, is not as popular on this side of the border.


I don't remember why Kmart left Canada, but RadioShack was bought out (they're known as "The Source" stores nowadays), and all Target stores across Canada were closed not even two years after opening up because they rolled out way too many stores without the appropriate logistics network in place. They also didn't bring their "legendary" low pricing with them to Canada (they were rather expensive to shop at) so combine that with virtually no stock on the shelves when they opened (and even weeks or months later) and you have a recipient for a company that is going to bleed money until it's supply lines can actually keep up.

As for water cooling, we have NCIX, MemoryExpress (although they prefer to deal with aio/clc coolers only), and of course DazMode... We used to have two others, but Bigfoot Computers shut down ages ago (can't remember why off the top of my head, but it caught a number of people off guard) and there was one other one that specialized in enthusiast cooling that I can't remember the name of. One problem a lot of retailers can face is that there's such a wide variety of sku's to stock combined with the market moving relatively fast for upgrade possibilities alongside the fact that due to our dollar we tend to see cards averaging around 25% more than American pricing.... It can be a somewhat tough market to stay alive in.

I also suspect water cooling isn't as "popular" in Canada due not just because of how it seems a lot more expensive but also because of the simple fact that on average our temperatures are cooler overall.


----------



## Kviisten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buellersdayoff*
> 
> Could try rotating the block 90°


You're goddamn right.

Unfortunately I had to kind of mess up the tubing a bit more to do that but that worked perfectly! Thanks to you and everyone else who has been kind enough to help me battle this issue, despite it being so silly in the end. I'll blame it on my low experience with watercooling
















The temps are great now, no OC maxes out at roughly 50 degrees and same OC as before (4.6ghz 1.35 voltage) maxed out at 65 on realtemp which is a little jumpy but I trust it fully.

Again, thanks everyone and let's hope this is my last post in this thread or forum haha!


----------



## buellersdayoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kviisten*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *buellersdayoff*
> 
> Could try rotating the block 90°
> 
> 
> 
> You're goddamn right.
> 
> Unfortunately I had to kind of mess up the tubing a bit more to do that but that worked perfectly! Thanks to you and everyone else who has been kind enough to help me battle this issue, despite it being so silly in the end. I'll blame it on my low experience with watercooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The temps are great now, no OC maxes out at roughly 50 degrees and same OC as before (4.6ghz 1.35 voltage) maxed out at 65 on realtemp which is a little jumpy but I trust it fully.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone and let's hope this is my last post in this thread or forum haha!
Click to expand...

Nice one :thumbup:


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> While it usually does not matter. Blanket statements like that are very poor choices.
> 
> My loops ( multiple ) take 2-4 gal and I know of people (and eventually i want to do one ) that do geothermal pcs with alot more water then that.
> 
> Either way I would rather have the extra room then not
> none at all again above the inlet level preferred (or a big enough res that it does not matter )


It's not a blanket statement. It's fundamental physics... gas increases in volume and pressure with temp as well, so that little bit of air you are leaving in the top of the reservoir, yeah, it's expanding and increasing the pressure as well. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gay-Lussac%27s_law

As a side note, if you are seeing even a 20 C delta in your coolant with 2 to 4 gallons you are doing it wrong.

P.S. you aren't the only person who has done massive multi-gallon loops:

edited due to being un-constructive and rude. Let me see if I can get a hold of Darlene, she's the expert on large loops around here on OCN, that should solve the debate.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kviisten*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *buellersdayoff*
> 
> Could try rotating the block 90°
> 
> 
> 
> You're goddamn right.
> 
> Unfortunately I had to kind of mess up the tubing a bit more to do that but that worked perfectly! Thanks to you and everyone else who has been kind enough to help me battle this issue, despite it being so silly in the end. I'll blame it on my low experience with watercooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The temps are great now, no OC maxes out at roughly 50 degrees and same OC as before (4.6ghz 1.35 voltage) maxed out at 65 on realtemp which is a little jumpy but I trust it fully.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone and let's hope this is my last post in this thread or forum haha!
Click to expand...

I'd bet that getting the block seated properly while you were turning it, is the real reason it's so much better now.

Block direction is usually responsible for no more than a couple degrees or so.

Anyway, as long as it's working at predictable temps is what counts in the end.

I say this mostly so that newbs don't end up with the idea that you get 10 or 20 degree differences because of how the block is installed.

Darlene


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'd bet that getting the block seated properly while you were turning it, is the real reason it's so much better now.
> 
> Block direction is usually responsible for no more than a couple degrees or so.
> 
> Anyway, as long as it's working at predictable temps is what counts in the end.
> 
> I say this mostly so that newbs don't end up with the idea that you get 10 or 20 degree differences because of how the block is installed.
> 
> Darlene


LOL speak of the devil. quick question on larger loops: completely removing all the air in the loop, possibility of being problematic or no.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'd bet that getting the block seated properly while you were turning it, is the real reason it's so much better now.
> 
> Block direction is usually responsible for no more than a couple degrees or so.
> 
> Anyway, as long as it's working at predictable temps is what counts in the end.
> 
> I say this mostly so that newbs don't end up with the idea that you get 10 or 20 degree differences because of how the block is installed.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> LOL speak of the devil. quick question on larger loops: completely removing all the air in the loop, possibility of being problematic or no.
Click to expand...

With hard tubing, . . . absolutely

With soft tubing, . . . not so much

As the coolant expands, even the relatively small amount that it does, it has to go somewhere, which means it's going to increase the internal volume of the loop somehow.

If it can compress some air somewhere, or otherwise increase the internal volume, no problem . . .

With soft tube, which gets more pliable as it gets warm, it can expand some, mitigating somewhat, the need for airspace

With hard line, if there's no airspace, then expanding coolant is going to push the tubing out of a fitting(s) somewhere.





In the very early days of hard line, when all you could find was 1/2", and the only fittings were C47's for 12mm crystal links, it was common to sand down the diameter of the tube to fit in the C47's

That usually was a bit iffy about how round it was and how much grip the o rings could manage . . .

If you didn't have some airspace, or some soft tube in a hidden area, something usually got sideways sooner or later.

Darlene


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I don't remember why Kmart left Canada, but RadioShack was bought out (they're known as "The Source" stores nowadays), and all Target stores across Canada were closed not even two years after opening up because they rolled out way too many stores without the appropriate logistics network in place. They also didn't bring their "legendary" low pricing with them to Canada (they were rather expensive to shop at) so combine that with virtually no stock on the shelves when they opened (and even weeks or months later) and you have a recipient for a company that is going to bleed money until it's supply lines can actually keep up.
> 
> As for water cooling, we have NCIX, MemoryExpress (although they prefer to deal with aio/clc coolers only), and of course DazMode... We used to have two others, but Bigfoot Computers shut down ages ago (can't remember why off the top of my head, but it caught a number of people off guard) and there was one other one that specialized in enthusiast cooling that I can't remember the name of. One problem a lot of retailers can face is that there's such a wide variety of sku's to stock combined with the market moving relatively fast for upgrade possibilities alongside the fact that due to our dollar we tend to see cards averaging around 25% more than American pricing.... It can be a somewhat tough market to stay alive in.
> 
> I also suspect water cooling isn't as "popular" in Canada due not just because of how it seems a lot more expensive but also because of the simple fact that on average our temperatures are cooler overall.


ahh!... Bigfoot Computers, that's a name I remember well, I purchased a lot of computer mod stuff from them









back then only them carried all the cool and neat stuff you don't see on your average computer stores in town.

Yes, it's too bad they closed down.









NCIX and Memory Express are just your regular computer shop, while they are Supposed to carry PC modding stuff, everytime I call or check their website, most stuff are out of stock, or will have to be Back Ordered for several weeks for it to arrive, which is no different than me ordering it myself direct from the source, which is exactly what they do when they don't have stock.

I'll ring up DazMode as a last resource, it's local to me I can save on shipping









I'm still in passive mode at the moment, there's no rush since the CaseLab case I ordered is still pending fulfillment, there's a back log, they even stopped taking in new orders, until they can finish all the queued up orders.

I'm sure by then EK should have some stocks again.

I'm ordering stuff for all 3 computers, My new rig, my wife's rig upgrade, my Home Theatre PC upgrade, they are all going under water

Especially the Home Theatre PC, it's extreme annoying when the GPU/CPU fan spins up suddenly in middle of a movie, especially during a Suspense Movie. LOL


----------



## DarkIdeals

Hey, Akira! Not sure if you would really know about this, but how long does it usually take for new blocks to be received by retail outlets like performance-pcs.com etc.. ? I just bought a 2nd TITAN X Pascal card and wanting to get blocks for it, but i only have enough to buy one straight from EK. So i'm curious of when i'd be able to buy one from a retail outlet like PPCS. Any rough idea would be fine, i won't hold you to it, just curious lol.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Hey, Akira! Not sure if you would really know about this, but how long does it usually take for new blocks to be received by retail outlets like performance-pcs.com etc.. ? I just bought a 2nd TITAN X Pascal card and wanting to get blocks for it, but i only have enough to buy one straight from EK. So i'm curious of when i'd be able to buy one from a retail outlet like PPCS. Any rough idea would be fine, i won't hold you to it, just curious lol.


I wouldn't be surprised to see PPCS have the block in stock within a week after the official release of the block.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I wouldn't be surprised to see PPCS have the block in stock within a week after the official release of the block.


Thanks!

Strangely, i called them an hour ago, and the guy checked and told me "mid SEPTEMBER" for some reason. Which makes no sense to me lol. After buying two of the TITAN X's i can only afford to buy one block directly from EK for a while, trying to decide whether to get it from EK now, or suffer with the inadequate reference cooler till they get it at PPCS. Somehow i think the september figure is off. Wonder who else will be getting the blocks, not many US water cooling retailers around anymore.


----------



## Snaporz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Strangely, i called them an hour ago, and the guy checked and told me "mid SEPTEMBER" for some reason. Which makes no sense to me lol. After buying two of the TITAN X's i can only afford to buy one block directly from EK for a while, trying to decide whether to get it from EK now, or suffer with the inadequate reference cooler till they get it at PPCS. Somehow i think the september figure is off. Wonder who else will be getting the blocks, not many US water cooling retailers around anymore.


Shipping direct from EK really isn't that much more than PPCS. Just get your 2nd from EK as well?


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snaporz*
> 
> Shipping direct from EK really isn't that much more than PPCS. Just get your 2nd from EK as well?


It is more actually. PPCS offers USPS priority mail 2 day shipping which is usually about $15 for two waterblocks. However, for EK to ship out two blocks in 3 day shipping is $50, even SEVEN day shipping is still almost $30.


----------



## Snaporz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> It is more actually. PPCS offers USPS priority mail 2 day shipping which is usually about $15 for two waterblocks. However, for EK to ship out two blocks in 3 day shipping is $50, even SEVEN day shipping is still almost $30.


I've ordered from both with similar costs. I will say though that DHL Express w/tracking for just the block from EK was $18. Shipped out today, will arrive to my door in Virginia Monday.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snaporz*
> 
> I've ordered from both with similar costs. I will say though that DHL Express w/tracking for just the block from EK was $18. Shipped out today, will arrive to my door in Virginia Monday.


I have no idea how that's possible. What block are you talking about specifically? Can't be the TITAN X as it doesn't release till the 16th. But i checked yesterday and today and the DHL Express with tracking says estimated delivery won't be till the 23rd, the only way to get it to arrive sooner is to use the UPS URGENT method which costs $44 for one block or $50 for two; and arrives on next friday the 19th.

Unfortunately i also can't afford to get both blocks right now, so i either have to wait for a week or so to get both meaning they likely won't arrive till end of month; or get one now and one later, suffering the double shipping cost.


----------



## Snaporz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> I have no idea how that's possible. What block are you talking about specifically? Can't be the TITAN X as it doesn't release till the 16th. But i checked yesterday and today and the DHL Express with tracking says it won't get here till the 23rd, the only way to get it to arrive sooner is to use the UPS URGENT method which costs $44 for one block or $50 for two; and arrives on next friday the 19th.


Yes. Titan X Pascal waterblock. A lot of pre-orders shipped today. Those dates they show on the site are simply estimates, most likely due to changes globally in arrival times and not wanting to be locked into anything right away. In reality, much shorter shipping time occurs. $18.83 to be 100% accurate.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> With hard tubing, . . . absolutely
> 
> With soft tubing, . . . not so much
> 
> As the coolant expands, even the relatively small amount that it does, it has to go somewhere, which means it's going to increase the internal volume of the loop somehow.
> 
> If it can compress some air somewhere, or otherwise increase the internal volume, no problem . . .
> 
> With soft tube, which gets more pliable as it gets warm, it can expand some, mitigating somewhat, the need for airspace
> 
> With hard line, if there's no airspace, then expanding coolant is going to push the tubing out of a fitting(s) somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the very early days of hard line, when all you could find was 1/2", and the only fittings were C47's for 12mm crystal links, it was common to sand down the diameter of the tube to fit in the C47's
> 
> That usually was a bit iffy about how round it was and how much grip the o rings could manage . . .
> 
> If you didn't have some airspace, or some soft tube in a hidden area, something usually got sideways sooner or later.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks as always for the sage information.

Well there we go. My apologies to @Mega Man I've always used large amounts of soft tubing for all the hidden tubing, hence why I had no issues with fully filling my loop.

So in conclusion: Soft tubing, fill away, rigid tubing, leave some play room and a pressure release valve (Gay-Lussac's Law still applies).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> While it usually does not matter. Blanket statements like that are very poor choices.
> 
> My loops ( multiple ) take 2-4 gal and I know of people (and eventually i want to do one ) that do geothermal pcs with alot more water then that.
> 
> Either way I would rather have the extra room then not
> none at all again above the inlet level preferred (or a big enough res that it does not matter )
> 
> 
> 
> It's not a blanket statement. It's fundamental physics... gas increases in volume and pressure with temp as well, so that little bit of air you are leaving in the top of the reservoir, yeah, it's expanding and increasing the pressure as well. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gay-Lussac%27s_law
> 
> As a side note, if you are seeing even a 20 C delta in your coolant with 2 to 4 gallons you are doing it wrong.
> 
> P.S. you aren't the only person who has done massive multi-gallon loops:
> 
> edited due to being un-constructive and rude. Let me see if I can get a hold of Darlene, she's the expert on large loops around here on OCN, that should solve the debate.
Click to expand...

First who said I had 20deg Deltas I have 2deg Deltas with at worst 3 degree delta. Unless I shut off my fans. Which I may do ( and others as well )to minimize noise

With that settled.who said I was the only one. Again. I never said that.

I feel and could be completely wrong that you had the idea I ment it would end in complete catastrophic disaster.
See below for more

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'd bet that getting the block seated properly while you were turning it, is the real reason it's so much better now.
> 
> Block direction is usually responsible for no more than a couple degrees or so.
> 
> Anyway, as long as it's working at predictable temps is what counts in the end.
> 
> I say this mostly so that newbs don't end up with the idea that you get 10 or 20 degree differences because of how the block is installed.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> LOL speak of the devil. quick question on larger loops: completely removing all the air in the loop, possibility of being problematic or no.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> With hard tubing, . . . absolutely
> 
> With soft tubing, . . . not so much
> 
> As the coolant expands, even the relatively small amount that it does, it has to go somewhere, which means it's going to increase the internal volume of the loop somehow.
> 
> If it can compress some air somewhere, or otherwise increase the internal volume, no problem . . .
> 
> With soft tube, which gets more pliable as it gets warm, it can expand some, mitigating somewhat, the need for airspace
> 
> With hard line, if there's no airspace, then expanding coolant is going to push the tubing out of a fitting(s) somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the very early days of hard line, when all you could find was 1/2", and the only fittings were C47's for 12mm crystal links, it was common to sand down the diameter of the tube to fit in the C47's
> 
> That usually was a bit iffy about how round it was and how much grip the o rings could manage . . .
> 
> If you didn't have some airspace, or some soft tube in a hidden area, something usually got sideways sooner or later.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

There is a reason I brought up "blanket statements" even with soft tubing I have had leaks (again not major and a bit special case as I run 4 mcp35xs ) with just temp increases we are talking drops. But with a pc all it takes is a drop. Maybe the soft tubing will give. But we are talking long term. What happens if you develop a weak oring....
It can happen. And again I just don't want that to happen to anyone. At anytime


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> First who said I had 20deg Deltas I have 2deg Deltas with at worst 3 degree delta. Unless I shut off my fans. Which I may do ( and others as well )to minimize noise
> 
> With that settled.who said I was the only one. Again. I never said that.
> 
> I feel and could be completely wrong that you had the idea I ment it would end in complete catastrophic disaster.
> See below for more
> There is a reason I brought up "blanket statements" even with soft tubing I have had leaks (again not major and a bit special case as I run 4 mcp35xs ) with just temp increases we are talking drops. But with a pc all it takes is a drop. Maybe the soft tubing will give. But we are talking long term. What happens if you develop a weak oring....
> It can happen. And again I just don't want that to happen to anyone. At anytime


I said I was being rude and un-constructive, asked Darlene who knows more about big loops than anyone I know, was corrected, and apologized to you.









Not sure what else there is to be said on the subject lol.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snaporz*
> 
> Yes. Titan X Pascal waterblock. A lot of pre-orders shipped today. Those dates they show on the site are simply estimates, most likely due to changes globally in arrival times and not wanting to be locked into anything right away. In reality, much shorter shipping time occurs. $18.83 to be 100% accurate.


Hmm, that's interesting. Now i'm really tempted to get a block now and just get the other one later lol. If the shipping is actually that fast i mean.

EDIT: Just ordered one. Sucks cuz i'll have one air cooled card and no backplate for either for a few weeks lol. At least i'll be able to get another block in a week or so though. Can't wait to test these two TITAN XP's under water. Even if i can only get a steady ~2,050mhz on each i'd be perfectly happy. My current card seems to have trouble just before 2,000mhz in very demanding games (i.e. witcher 3 only goes to ~1,975mhz or so before having trouble, although the high 80's temps are likely at fault, as my voltage never goes over around ~1.02v for some reason.) And the 2nd card i purchased from a guy who got the #5 top slot on firestrike dual card HOF; so it should at least boost to 2K on air most likely.

Sucks that my maxwell TITAN X block wouldn't fit it, even after i carved some extra room in the little capacitor slot on the very edge. The lump of inductors near the center made the core not contact properly still, so it was a bust. Probably won't be able to sell it for much now too lol.


----------



## Snaporz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Hmm, that's interesting. Now i'm really tempted to get a block now and just get the other one later lol. If the shipping is actually that fast i mean.
> 
> EDIT: Just ordered one. Sucks cuz i'll have one air cooled card and no backplate for either for a few weeks lol. At least i'll be able to get another block in a week or so though. Can't wait to test these two TITAN XP's under water. Even if i can only get a steady ~2,050mhz on each i'd be perfectly happy. My current card seems to have trouble just before 2,000mhz in very demanding games (i.e. witcher 3 only goes to ~1,975mhz or so before having trouble, although the high 80's temps are likely at fault, as my voltage never goes over around ~1.02v for some reason.) And the 2nd card i purchased from a guy who got the #5 top slot on firestrike dual card HOF; so it should at least boost to 2K on air most likely.
> 
> Sucks that my maxwell TITAN X block wouldn't fit it, even after i carved some extra room in the little capacitor slot on the very edge. The lump of inductors near the center made the core not contact properly still, so it was a bust. Probably won't be able to sell it for much now too lol.


Good luck! If I were a smart man I would've just waited and got the block and backplate in same order but I didn't even though I am waiting for backplate before putting on the block. Just good to know I'll have it lol.


----------



## JCArch

Hey EK Club,

Is anyone familiar with the housing diameter of an EK D5 pump? I'm looking to drill a hole in the midplate of my BH2 to recess my D5 w/ EK XTOP pump, but forgot to measure before leaving the house. What size hole saw bit is best for this?


----------



## ratzofftoya

Am I understanding correctly that NVIDIA's own HB SLI bridge won't work with the Titan X Pascal waterblocks? So I need the EVGA bridge?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Am I understanding correctly that NVIDIA's own HB SLI bridge won't work with the Titan X Pascal waterblocks? So I need the EVGA bridge?


that or wait for EK's version of the HB SLI bridge.


----------



## Sedici

Completed my build, thought I'd share here since a big part of it was making that SBAY fit in the case.


----------



## AllGamer

Very nice mod,








truly custom


----------



## DarthBaggins

Nice Senna themed build


----------



## Sedici

I appreciate it guys!

I wanted to do something more with black and gold, and then I remembered the iconic John Player F1 livery from way back and figured to try it out.


----------



## Panther Al

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedici*
> 
> I appreciate it guys!
> 
> I wanted to do something more with black and gold, and then I remembered the iconic John Player F1 livery from way back and figured to try it out.


Please say there is a build log of this, because this is just pure class. No bling, just class.


----------



## Sedici

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> Please say there is a build log of this, because this is just pure class. No bling, just class.


Thanks.

Apologies but there is no build log. Lots of other work I had to do while the system was being built prevented that. There was no timescale of finishing it, so a build log may have never been finished or updated. Although I'm glad it actually completed.









There's an album with more photos here if interested.


http://imgur.com/9WZEI


----------



## Biggu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedici*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Apologies but there is no build log. Lots of other work I had to do while the system was being built prevented that. There was no timescale of finishing it, so a build log may have never been finished or updated. Although I'm glad it actually completed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's an album with more photos here if interested.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/9WZEI


Seriously such an awesome well done build! congrats that thing is amazing! Would pair well with a sim rig setup


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedici*
> 
> I appreciate it guys!
> 
> I wanted to do something more with black and gold, and then I remembered the iconic John Player F1 livery from way back and figured to try it out.


Curiosity question.

Why did you not include the Video card into the loop?

I'm guessing it's probably the theme were are going for. <--- My mind and my typing is out of sync.









I'm guessing it's probably due the theme you were going for.

.


----------



## Sedici

Thanks guys!

@AllGamer Good question. Yes! There were a few reasons actually!

Did aesthetics play a part? In a way yes, but not too much. I could have likely modified a GPU waterblock to fit the theme. It all fell down to simply not wanting a lot of tubing going all over the case.

Another reason is I did not want the GPU affecting my water temp. It is a very slim 240 radiator in a cramped space and I had planned to OC that CPU so I at least wanted some decent temps. The CPU I care about. GPU, not as much. I went with CPU only loop in hopes for the best.

Finally, I just swap cards out too often to justify GPU watercooling, and then routing tubes for it in this specific case. I didn't want to have to keep taking apart the case just to swap things out. It's a real headache to remove GPUs in the build as it is because of where the pumpres is mounted and the overall size of the case means having to twist your fingers in odd ways to reach things. A watercooled GPU would have involved removing the front panel, removing the back panel, and removing the PSU shroud. Then if I drained it, I would have to disconnect some PSU cables because they are all hidden above the pumpres and block the fillport. The pumpres being right up against the PSU makes it difficult to unclip those connectors, not to mention the cables are routed really tightly in the case, and so provide very little slack or pull. The hidden SSD is also mounted in that corner, providing even less space. With the blower card, I just have to remove the card without nicking it on the pump bracket.

As impractical as it may look, practicality is really what I wanted. It's my first WC build so I knew nothing going in and just wanted ease of maintenance really. I'm used to stock air cooled builds, where I can just build the PC on day one, and leave it alone for the rest of time. I already know watercooling won't let me do that, so I just tried to make it as easy on myself as I could for future upgrades and servicing. Leaving the GPU out is a great way for me to avoid having to do a teardown every time. Of course it doesn't rule out GPU watercooling in the future, but I've no plans for it at the moment.

I'm just happy it turned on without catching fire. That's good enough for me.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Do we know if the Asus Turbo 1070 will be getting a full cover waterblock?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedici*
> 
> Completed my build, thought I'd share here since a big part of it was making that SBAY fit in the case.


I am speechless.


----------



## xarot

Perhaps this has been asked several times already but when will there be nickel backplates for Titan X (Pascal). Currently there is only one to buy - black.


----------



## Castaile

Reality Check:

I've finished my EK custom loop cooling the following components: 4.6ghz 1.376Vcore delidded 3770k with gelid TIM and a single 1503mhz 980ti classified.

Using a Xe480 in pull and Xe240 in push, both with Vardar 1850rpm fans, I'm getting ambient temperature of ~33C, idle water temperature of ~31C, CPU heats up to 73C under 2 hours of P95 and the classy gets up to 53C when I bench with firestrike ultra.

Any way to further improve my temperatures or am I expecting too much for my current clocks and setup?

Edit: both rads are intakes, a corsair AF120 at the back as exhaust


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castaile*
> 
> Reality Check:
> I've finished my EK custom loop cooling the following components: 4.6ghz 1.376Vcore delidded 3770k with gelid TIM and a single 1503mhz 980ti classified.
> Using a Xe480 in pull and Xe240 in push, both with Vardar 1850rpm fans, I'm getting ambient temperature of ~33C, idle water temperature of ~31C, CPU heats up to 73C under 2 hours of P95 and the classy gets up to 53C when I bench with firestrike ultra.
> 
> Any way to further improve my temperatures or am I expecting too much for my current clocks and setup?
> 
> Edit: both rads are intakes, a corsair AF120 at the back as exhaust


Yea, that hot air is just sitting inside the case and not going anywhere. A single 120mm could never push out all the hot air coming off the rads. At least set the 240 as an exhaust. Won't help your CPU temps much though cuz p95 is made to CRUSH temps. Use something more realistic and youll see WAY beter temps. Also i hope youre not using a TIM between the die and IHS, that should be CLU or intel TIM only. All other TIMs dont last long at all on the die.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Do we know if the Asus Turbo 1070 will be getting a full cover waterblock?


We don't plan on doing a block for the 1080 Turbo so it's fairly safe to say that we won't make one for the 1070 variant. Sorry.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Perhaps this has been asked several times already but when will there be nickel backplates for Titan X (Pascal). Currently there is only one to buy - black.


Probably not until the beginning (maybe middle) of September


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castaile*
> 
> Reality Check:
> I've finished my EK custom loop cooling the following components: 4.6ghz 1.376Vcore delidded 3770k with gelid TIM and a single 1503mhz 980ti classified.
> Using a Xe480 in pull and Xe240 in push, both with Vardar 1850rpm fans, I'm getting ambient temperature of ~33C, idle water temperature of ~31C, CPU heats up to 73C under 2 hours of P95 and the classy gets up to 53C when I bench with firestrike ultra.
> 
> Any way to further improve my temperatures or am I expecting too much for my current clocks and setup?
> 
> Edit: both rads are intakes, a corsair AF120 at the back as exhaust


That's a pretty high ambient, and how are you getting water temp below ambient with just passive rads and fans?

Also, what is your fan curve?


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedici*
> 
> Completed my build, thought I'd share here since a big part of it was making that SBAY fit in the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I mean, WOW







. My favourite build of the year so far







/


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Probably not until the beginning (maybe middle) of September


Okay, that's alright, thanks for the reply. At least those are coming. I really like the mirrorish reflection of the nickel backplate.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Okay, that's alright, thanks for the reply. At least those are coming. I really like the mirrorish reflection of the nickel backplate.


If it makes a difference, they hold up nicely after 12months as well









I cleaned them with some windex, paper and cloth towels.



TCO


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castaile*
> 
> Reality Check:
> I've finished my EK custom loop cooling the following components: 4.6ghz 1.376Vcore delidded 3770k with gelid TIM and a single 1503mhz 980ti classified.
> Using a Xe480 in pull and Xe240 in push, both with Vardar 1850rpm fans, I'm getting ambient temperature of ~33C, idle water temperature of ~31C, CPU heats up to 73C under 2 hours of P95 and the classy gets up to 53C when I bench with firestrike ultra.
> 
> Any way to further improve my temperatures or am I expecting too much for my current clocks and setup?
> 
> Edit: both rads are intakes, a corsair AF120 at the back as exhaust


If your ambient is around 31 - 33 C, then those numbers seem right. What doesn't seem right is why you don't own an air conditioner.

Note, ambient temp should be whatever the temp on your thermostat in the room your PC is in. So if you have an ambient of 31 C that means the temp inside your house is almost 90 degrees F

Now if as I suspect, your coolant is reaching 33 C under full load, then the only way to really improve those numbers would be to try re-seating the blocks, may have applied too much TIM or have your blocks not seated evenly. Those numbers don't seem too out of line though. The GPU is a bit high though, not by much though. If it really is 90 degrees in your house then those numbers on your GPU are right as rain and your CPU numbers are actually really good.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> If your ambient is around 31 - 33 C, then those numbers seem right. What doesn't seem right is why you don't own an air conditioner.
> 
> Note, ambient temp should be whatever the temp on your thermostat in the room your PC is in. So if you have an ambient of 31 C that means the temp inside your house is almost 90 degrees F
> 
> Now if as I suspect, your coolant is reaching 33 C under full load, then the only way to really improve those numbers would be to try re-seating the blocks, may have applied too much TIM or have your blocks not seated evenly. Those numbers don't seem too out of line though. The GPU is a bit high though, not by much though. If it really is 90 degrees in your house then those numbers on your GPU are right as rain and your CPU numbers are actually really good.


Because in a lot of countries and apartments, people aren't allowed to install air conditioning?

As far as ambient, i don't trust that number. It could be 27C in a room on the thermostat but the actual case ambient could be a bit higher. Example, after an hr of gaming my case ambient will go from room temp to a couple °C warmer. I can go from 27°C to 31°C case ambient after a couple hours of playing.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Because in a lot of countries and apartments, people aren't allowed to install air conditioning?
> 
> As far as ambient, i don't trust that number. It could be 27C in a room on the thermostat but the actual case ambient could be a bit higher. Example, after an hr of gaming my case ambient will go from room temp to a couple °C warmer. I can go from 27°C to 31°C case ambient after a couple hours of playing.


That's a Delta. Not an ambient.

Ambient = base starting point temp

Delta = difference between start and finish temps.

In your situation the ambient would be 27 C and the end point would be 31 C giving you a Delta of 4 C.

Also, what country doesn't allow air conditioners?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> That's a Delta. Not an ambient.
> 
> Ambient = base starting point temp
> 
> Delta = difference between start and finish temps.
> 
> In your situation the ambient would be 27 C and the end point would be 31 C giving you a Delta of 4 C.
> 
> Also, what country doesn't allow air conditioners?


Quite a lot, if you own the apartment but not the building there you go simple answer. Btw countries like Taiwan, Vietnam, etc have such high prices on electronics people can't afford em.

And i dont use the delta as the temp never really finishes, if i close the window and have no breeze coming in it could climb even higher. I have a water delta of 5-6°C so i can't complain.

Edit: I should mention that i measure my ambient temps in the case with a 40k temp sensor that sits right in front of all 5 of my radiator fans.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Quite a lot, if you own the apartment but not the building there you go simple answer. Btw countries like Taiwan, Vietnam, etc have such high prices on electronics people can't afford em.
> 
> And i dont use the delta as the temp never really finishes, if i close the window and have no breeze coming in it could climb even higher. I have a water delta of 5-6°C so i can't complain.


That's really weird, is it a power grid issue or something? Sorry for dragging off topic but this really intrigues me.

edit: I'm assuming since the original post in question is a water cooled I7 and 980 ti with a pair of large rads and a litany of other high end parts, he/she isn't too poor to afford A/C


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> That's really weird, is it a power grid issue or something? Sorry for dragging off topic but this really intrigues me.
> 
> edit: I'm assuming since the original post in question is a water cooled I7 and 980 ti with a pair of large rads and a litany of other high end parts, he/she isn't too poor to afford A/C


Haha my pc came out to about 2200€ or so. I can absolutely afford AC unfortunately in the building i live in, they don't want any AC units hanging on the side of the building. The windows are HUGE open door windows and you can't fit a window unit in it. Thats just one example.

I think his issue is both rads are said to intake, the inside of the case is probably getting intake air temps of at least 38°C (thats what ive measured from my testing). So we know for a fact the mobo/cpu are getting that hot to begin with. A single 120mm fan cannot compensate for 6 120mm fans.

My case is an Core X5, i have both my rads set as EXHAUST, have 3 140mm intake fans up top and 1 140m in the rear as exhaust. That gives me a water delta of about 5-6°C depending on the game.

I also don't use p95, i run bare die and my 4690k reaches 52-53°C while gaming (and thats how i test it after ive tested for stability). I don't run stress tests to check my temps as my computer is not running a stress test for 8 hours a day but it will game for 8 hours.


----------



## Castaile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> That's a pretty high ambient, and how are you getting water temp below ambient with just passive rads and fans?
> 
> Also, what is your fan curve?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> If your ambient is around 31 - 33 C, then those numbers seem right. What doesn't seem right is why you don't own an air conditioner.
> 
> Note, ambient temp should be whatever the temp on your thermostat in the room your PC is in. So if you have an ambient of 31 C that means the temp inside your house is almost 90 degrees F
> 
> Now if as I suspect, your coolant is reaching 33 C under full load, then the only way to really improve those numbers would be to try re-seating the blocks, may have applied too much TIM or have your blocks not seated evenly. Those numbers don't seem too out of line though. The GPU is a bit high though, not by much though. If it really is 90 degrees in your house then those numbers on your GPU are right as rain and your CPU numbers are actually really good.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> That's a pretty high ambient, and how are you getting water temp below ambient with just passive rads and fans?
> 
> Also, what is your fan curve?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Haha my pc came out to about 2200€ or so. I can absolutely afford AC unfortunately in the building i live in, they don't want any AC units hanging on the side of the building. The windows are HUGE open door windows and you can't fit a window unit in it. Thats just one example.
> 
> I think his issue is both rads are said to intake, the inside of the case is probably getting intake air temps of at least 38°C (thats what ive measured from my testing). So we know for a fact the mobo/cpu are getting that hot to begin with. A single 120mm fan cannot compensate for 6 120mm fans.
> 
> My case is an Core X5, i have both my rads set as EXHAUST, have 3 140mm intake fans up top and 1 140m in the rear as exhaust. That gives me a water delta of about 5-6°C depending on the game.
> 
> I also don't use p95, i run bare die and my 4690k reaches 52-53°C while gaming (and thats how i test it after ive tested for stability). I don't run stress tests to check my temps as my computer is not running a stress test for 8 hours a day but it will game for 8 hours.


My mistake guys, I was referring to the temperature inside the case that's about 32-33C, the ambient is about 22C (I do blast my A/C since it gets pretty hot here in HK), my fan curve is pretty aggressive, the fans are connected to the cpu_header and they go at about 1000rpm (20%) at idle temperature (~35C) and goes up to 80% when it boils up to 60C.

So I suppose I should consider these options: replace the TIM with CLU, change my 240 to exhaust, and get a 140mm fan at the back. The CLU should indeed help since I run bare die


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castaile*
> 
> My mistake guys, I was referring to the temperature inside the case that's about 32-33C, the ambient is about 22C (I do blast my A/C since it gets pretty hot here in HK), my fan curve is pretty aggressive, the fans are connected to the cpu_header and they go at about 1000rpm (20%) at idle temperature (~35C) and goes up to 80% when it boils up to 60C.
> So I suppose I should consider these options: replace the TIM with CLU, change my 240 to exhaust, and get a 140mm fan at the back. The CLU should indeed help since I run bare die


You have a case ambient 10°C above ambient? Thats pretty damn high haha. You don't have enough exhaust fans. Id switch the 240 to exhaust depending on where its located. If your 480 is located at the top of the case id set that to exhaust. The hot air is just circling inside your case man.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Haha my pc came out to about 2200€ or so. I can absolutely afford AC unfortunately in the building i live in, they don't want any AC units hanging on the side of the building. The windows are HUGE open door windows and you can't fit a window unit in it. Thats just one example.
> 
> I think his issue is both rads are said to intake, the inside of the case is probably getting intake air temps of at least 38°C (thats what ive measured from my testing). So we know for a fact the mobo/cpu are getting that hot to begin with. A single 120mm fan cannot compensate for 6 120mm fans.
> 
> My case is an Core X5, i have both my rads set as EXHAUST, have 3 140mm intake fans up top and 1 140m in the rear as exhaust. That gives me a water delta of about 5-6°C depending on the game.
> 
> I also don't use p95, i run bare die and my 4690k reaches 52-53°C while gaming (and thats how i test it after ive tested for stability). I don't run stress tests to check my temps as my computer is not running a stress test for 8 hours a day but it will game for 8 hours.


Not going to lie but if that was me in buying and sneaking in one of those portable Acs hat sit on your floor and just need condensate drain pan poured out everyday unless it has a vaporzior


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Not going to lie but if that was me in buying and sneaking in one of those portable Acs hat sit on your floor and just need condensate drain pan poured out everyday unless it has a vaporzior


Agreed, I was actually planning to get one of those just for my water loop









but when I saw the noise level they are average at slightly over 50+ dBA it changed my mind


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Not going to lie but if that was me in buying and sneaking in one of those portable Acs hat sit on your floor and just need condensate drain pan poured out everyday unless it has a vaporzior


Those work decent at best, i do believe you still need a hose to go out to pump out the hot air. For me its just not worth it, its only really warm here for 3months out of the year and after that its only 22-23°C so its really not a big deal. It sucks at night when theres no breeze but otherwise its not too bad.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Because in a lot of countries and apartments, people aren't allowed to install air conditioning?
> 
> As far as ambient, i don't trust that number. It could be 27C in a room on the thermostat but the actual case ambient could be a bit higher. Example, after an hr of gaming my case ambient will go from room temp to a couple °C warmer. I can go from 27°C to 31°C case ambient after a couple hours of playing.
> 
> 
> 
> That's a Delta. Not an ambient.
> 
> Ambient = base starting point temp
> 
> Delta = difference between start and finish temps.
> 
> In your situation the ambient would be 27 C and the end point would be 31 C giving you a Delta of 4 C.
> 
> Also, what country doesn't allow air conditioners?
Click to expand...

this is not true at all.

it can be a delta

all a delta is is a difference. whether it be temp, time, vacuum, ect, ect

an ambient temp. is an ambient temp.

if you tried to tell me " when my ac came on it was 79, so now it is 79 in the room" i would laugh at you.

ambient temp, needs to be taken AT the time of measuring loop temp, to get a water-air delta. besides that you have to take an ambient to get a delta. ( air to water temp delta )

not from when you begin gaming
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Castaile*
> 
> My mistake guys, I was referring to the temperature inside the case that's about 32-33C, the ambient is about 22C (I do blast my A/C since it gets pretty hot here in HK), my fan curve is pretty aggressive, the fans are connected to the cpu_header and they go at about 1000rpm (20%) at idle temperature (~35C) and goes up to 80% when it boils up to 60C.
> So I suppose I should consider these options: replace the TIM with CLU, change my 240 to exhaust, and get a 140mm fan at the back. The CLU should indeed help since I run bare die
> 
> 
> 
> You have a case ambient 10°C above ambient? Thats pretty damn high haha. You don't have enough exhaust fans. Id switch the 240 to exhaust depending on where its located. If your 480 is located at *the top of the case id set that to exhaust.* The hot air is just circling inside your case man.
Click to expand...

the bold section, while might be true, is not necessarily true

he could

have fans set low due to noise
have poor rad fans
have general poor airflow
dirty rads/intakes/exhausts
any combination of the above, and / or more
also the assumption that " heat rises" so you should " make top case fans exhausts" is EXCESSIVELY false in a pc case that is not 100% passive( please note i never said you stated either, nor any statement made here )

heat does not rise nor " should " you make top case fans exhaust.

you should however evaluate it for yourself. as no 2 pcs are the same ( custom built ) - in a case that is not 100% passively cooled, the heat goes where ever i tell it to go. via the fan.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is not true at all.
> 
> it can be a delta
> 
> all a delta is is a difference. whether it be temp, time, vacuum, ect, ect
> 
> an ambient temp. is an ambient temp.
> 
> if you tried to tell me " when my ac came on it was 79, so now it is 79 in the room" i would laugh at you.
> 
> ambient temp, needs to be taken AT the time of measuring loop temp, to get a water-air delta. besides that you have to take an ambient to get a delta. ( air to water temp delta )
> 
> not from when you begin gaming
> the bold section, while might be true, is not necessarily true
> 
> he could
> 
> have fans set low due to noise
> have poor rad fans
> have general poor airflow
> dirty rads/intakes/exhausts
> any combination of the above, and / or more
> also the assumption that " heat rises" so you should " make top case fans exhausts" is EXCESSIVELY false in a pc case that is not 100% passive( please note i never said you stated either, nor any statement made here )
> 
> heat does not rise nor " should " you make top case fans exhaust.
> 
> you should however evaluate it for yourself. as no 2 pcs are the same ( custom built ) - in a case that is not 100% passively cooled, the heat goes where ever i tell it to go. via the fan.


1. My fan controller has 6 sensors that refresh every second, so i get real life temps of air and water. Ill start at 27°C case temp for example and after an hr will be at 31°C again no AC. My water temp wil do the same, start at 33°C and go all the way up to 37°C. In a house with no ac the room will heat up and ambient goes up. Its far more accurate to measure ambient temp inside the case then outside where the rad fans arent directly sucking air from.

2. I dont mean change to top to exhaust because hot air rises but more then likely because his 480mm rad is probably at the top.

P.S. Its a gaming pc im not going to measure delta T and ambient temps at idle where its irrelevant


----------



## Kimir

This is why the Aquaero is darn good, you can create a virtual sensor with ambient and water temp, making a delta T sensor on which you control/link the fans, but it come with a price. This is why EK has to get on it and offer an alternative to Aqua Computer.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is not true at all.
> 
> it can be a delta
> 
> all a delta is is a difference. whether it be temp, time, vacuum, ect, ect
> 
> an ambient temp. is an ambient temp.
> 
> if you tried to tell me " when my ac came on it was 79, so now it is 79 in the room" i would laugh at you.
> 
> ambient temp, needs to be taken AT the time of measuring loop temp, to get a water-air delta. besides that you have to take an ambient to get a delta. ( air to water temp delta )
> 
> not from when you begin gaming
> the bold section, while might be true, is not necessarily true
> 
> he could
> 
> have fans set low due to noise
> have poor rad fans
> have general poor airflow
> dirty rads/intakes/exhausts
> any combination of the above, and / or more
> also the assumption that " heat rises" so you should " make top case fans exhausts" is EXCESSIVELY false in a pc case that is not 100% passive( please note i never said you stated either, nor any statement made here )
> 
> heat does not rise nor " should " you make top case fans exhaust.
> 
> you should however evaluate it for yourself. as no 2 pcs are the same ( custom built ) - in a case that is not 100% passively cooled, the heat goes where ever i tell it to go. via the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. My fan controller has 6 sensors that refresh every second, so i get real life temps of air and water. Ill start at 27°C case temp for example and after an hr will be at 31°C again no AC. My water temp wil do the same, start at 33°C and go all the way up to 37°C. In a house with no ac the room will heat up and ambient goes up. Its far more accurate to measure ambient temp inside the case then outside where the rad fans arent directly sucking air from.
> 
> 2. I dont mean change to top to exhaust because hot air rises but more then likely because his 480mm rad is probably at the top.
> 
> P.S. Its a gaming pc im not going to measure delta T and ambient temps at idle where its irrelevant
Click to expand...

none of my statement in that regard was to you (speaking of ambient/deltas). i specifically didnt mention you as there is not enough information to mention your loop. ( for example. but not needed to be answered: is your rad exhaust, are you air cooling your cpu and water cooling gpu among many many more examples.)

as to the rest ( aka your #2) more fans is not necessarily the answer ( or more fans in exhaust )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> This is why the Aquaero is darn good, you can create a virtual sensor with ambient and water temp, making a delta T sensor on which you control/link the fans, but it come with a price. *This is why EK has to get on it and offer an alternative to Aqua Computer*.


yep and i love my aquaeros !~
as to the bold, one can only pray, however i doubt it soul cause the aquaeros price to drop, if at all either way however competition is great !


----------



## WhiteWulfe

On the topic of ac units some of us don't use them because we only have so many circuits (four usable ones for the entire apartment, since the other three are split into two for the stove and one for the outside parking stall I don't use since the work truck doesn't have a block heater cord) in combination with only having a 60A main breaker. Oh, and then condo board rules, so if you happen to put a window one up it must be taken down if they request it, not be permanently mounted, etc etc. I would just get one of the portable ones that sits on the floor, but then it's right back to the power issue (I'd rather not have to turn air conditioning off just to make coffee or toast, as an example, and as a second one I don't want to have to turn off BOINC in order to make coffee)


----------



## Castaile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is not true at all.
> 
> it can be a delta
> 
> all a delta is is a difference. whether it be temp, time, vacuum, ect, ect
> 
> an ambient temp. is an ambient temp.
> 
> if you tried to tell me " when my ac came on it was 79, so now it is 79 in the room" i would laugh at you.
> 
> ambient temp, needs to be taken AT the time of measuring loop temp, to get a water-air delta. besides that you have to take an ambient to get a delta. ( air to water temp delta )
> 
> not from when you begin gaming
> the bold section, while might be true, is not necessarily true
> 
> he could
> 
> have fans set low due to noise
> have poor rad fans
> have general poor airflow
> dirty rads/intakes/exhausts
> any combination of the above, and / or more
> also the assumption that " heat rises" so you should " make top case fans exhausts" is EXCESSIVELY false in a pc case that is not 100% passive( please note i never said you stated either, nor any statement made here )
> 
> heat does not rise nor " should " you make top case fans exhaust.
> 
> you should however evaluate it for yourself. as no 2 pcs are the same ( custom built ) - in a case that is not 100% passively cooled, the heat goes where ever i tell it to go. via the fan.


Thanks for the input guys, to clarify:


have fans set low due to noise

fans are at around 1000rpm when the computer is idle and the temps are around 33C...they're not silent at all but acceptable, is that consider low speed?


have poor rad fans

I have EK's vardar 1850 fans with 2 SP120 from my previous build. They should be good quality


have general poor airflow

This might be true, I have the 480 at the top and 240 at the front as intake and only 1 120mm at the back as exhaust. I should try to switch up the rads to exhaust


dirty rads/intakes/exhausts

Rads are brand spanking new and went through several pre-flushes prior to being setup


any combination of the above, and / or more

Time to slap on some CLU to the cpu

The temperature inside the case is being read by a probe from lamptron5 and the water temperature is from the phobya sensor fitting:

480 -> cpu -> 240 -> thermal senor -> res/pump -> gpu

I shall report back..


----------



## Kenjiwing

Does anyone know of a waterblock for the GA-Z170X-Designare? I know there is a block for the 170x but dont know if it works..

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-ga-z170x-monoblock-nickel


----------



## AllGamer

Wooohoo!!!! it finally arrived!








Happy yet a little bit disappointed









Awesome product, _*looks*_ like good quality











but it was made in China


----------



## Silent Scone

Shocking revelation...Taiwanese vendor branches out to China.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Does anyone know of a waterblock for the GA-Z170X-Designare? I know there is a block for the 170x but dont know if it works..
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-ga-z170x-monoblock-nickel


Sorry we have no compatible monoblock compatible with this board and have no plans on making one.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Sorry we have no compatible monoblock compatible with this board and have no plans on making one.


Thanks for responding akira.. do you know if the monoblock for the 170x might fight with some modifications or is there a huge difference? Just wondering thanks!


----------



## Sazexa

Do we have any news on the EK HB SLI bridge? I just dropped a ton of cash for finishing up my loop, and that's the only part I'm missing.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Do we have any news on the EK HB SLI bridge? I just dropped a ton of cash for finishing up my loop, and that's the only part I'm missing.


aye! I'm waiting on this as well


----------



## Silent Scone

Really not a fan of the thermal pads EK are supplying now. They're insultingly thin and hard to peel.


----------



## LeviathanVI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Do we have any news on the EK HB SLI bridge? I just dropped a ton of cash for finishing up my loop, and that's the only part I'm missing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> aye! I'm waiting on this as well


Yep. Me too.


----------



## Exilon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> Really not a fan of the thermal pads EK are supplying now. They're insultingly thin and hard to peel.


Thermal pads aren't the best thermal conductors. Thinner the better IMO.


----------



## looniam

so yeah, just added an ek-vga supremacy to the P-280 kit i got and ran prime95(blend) and furmark:

cpu 4.4Ghz 1.36v cores 72c-76c

980ti 400watt power limit topped out 54c

i don't think that's bad for a single EK-CoolStream CE 280 w/fans push, albeit the pump was 100% while getting all the bubbles out.

no?


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> so yeah, just added an ek-vga supremacy to the P-280 kit i got and ran prime95(blend) and furmark:
> 
> cpu 4.4Ghz 1.36v cores 72c-76c
> 
> 980ti 400watt power limit topped out 54c
> 
> i don't think that's bad for a single EK-CoolStream CE 280 w/fans push, albeit the pump was 100% while getting all the bubbles out.
> 
> no?


>4.4GHz 1.36V

That's a mistype right? Sounds brutal


----------



## looniam

ooppps 1.328



i just pushed [email protected] to run time spy - got just over 5500 with my 980ti (~1470/ 1950) but blue screened before the result uploaded or saved the screen shot.


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> ooppps 1.328
> 
> i just pushed [email protected] to run time spy - got just over 5500 with my 980ti (~1470/ 1950) but blue screened before the result uploaded or saved the screen shot.


1.328V is still pretty bad. Especially for that clock. Would be great for 4.7GHz. But certainly not 4.4GHz


----------



## looniam

^ yeah, thats why i went water. patently waiting for kabylake or if zen is all that.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> ^ yeah, thats why i went water. patently waiting for kabylake or if zen is all that.


Zen seems to be promising, still got my fingers crossed.


----------



## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

any news on when the gtx 1080 SeaHawk EK X will be avialable again ?? waiting for 2 month now .. already paid the card and my old card drops more and more in price.... msi wont tell my why we dont get the card shipped yet and the shops only tell me i could buy another card that cost much more than this one .. bah .... msi said once to me its a ek waterblocks problem ? maybe one of the EK gurus here can answer me the question when it will be available again ?







or whats the problem wíth these cards right now


----------



## Benjiw

I'm a bit concerned about my vrm block on my asus maximus vii ranger. It looks really tarnished so I tried to clean it and there seems to be quite a bit of copper coloured residue on the ear buds I used to try and clean it with hot soapy water.



All I used was staight de ionised water because it's difficult to get distilled here in the uk and I've never had this issue before in my other loops. Any idea what it could be?


----------



## bluej511

Damn i thought my second chip was bad haha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm a bit concerned about my vrm block on my asus maximus vii ranger. It looks really tarnished so I tried to clean it and there seems to be quite a bit of copper coloured residue on the ear buds I used to try and clean it with hot soapy water.
> 
> 
> 
> All I used was staight de ionised water because it's difficult to get distilled here in the uk and I've never had this issue before in my other loops. Any idea what it could be?


Benji are you using alphacool rads by any chance? I am, and noticed the same residue on one of my tube fittings, has a copperish tarnish to the nickel plating of my fitting.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Damn i thought my second chip was bad haha
> Benji are you using alphacool rads by any chance? I am, and noticed the same residue on one of my tube fittings, has a copperish tarnish to the nickel plating of my fitting.


Nope magicool which has been in another system and this one with a GTS 420 from HWLabs so I'm not sure why my shiny new nickel has gone very tarnished and the residue is what is bothering me the most as it doesn't seem to be in my other blocks.


----------



## JunkStar

Any news on the fullcover block for the EVGA GTX1080 FTW? It was originally supposed to be ready atleast at month ago as far as i remeber...


----------



## Captaincaveman

Hi all,

I have a question regarding block height difference and tips about connecting many blocks in close proximity.
I am switching all (visible) tubes to rigid ones and adding a motherboard block (RVE) to the exiting cpu, ram and gpu blocks.
How would you go about connecting all of them together (single loop)?
I was thinking about:


so gpus -> south bridge -> right ram -> cpu -> left ram -> vrm.
I'd like to use 90 degrees fittings for this area for a cleaner look.
Googling, I found that from cpu to ram blocks I'd need a 30mm extender, but I couldn't find anything regarding south bridge block to ram block and ram block to vrm block.
All blocks are EK ones.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I have a question regarding block height difference and tips about connecting many blocks in close proximity.
> I am switching all (visible) tubes to rigid ones and adding a motherboard block (RVE) to the exiting cpu, ram and gpu blocks.
> How would you go about connecting all of them together (single loop)?
> I was thinking about:
> 
> 
> so gpus -> south bridge -> right ram -> cpu -> left ram -> vrm.
> I'd like to use 90 degrees fittings for this area for a cleaner look.
> Googling, I found that from cpu to ram blocks I'd need a 30mm extender, but I couldn't find anything regarding south bridge block to ram block and ram block to vrm block.
> All blocks are EK ones.


Since you're using an EK CPU block, they usually recommend the left side as inlet and right side as outlet. So, unless you're mounting the CPU block upside down, that'll kind of go against what they advise. Perhaps you could do:

Res -> res -> GPU's -> left RAM (bottom) -> Southbridge -> CPU -> VRM -> right RAM


----------



## Captaincaveman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Since you're using an EK CPU block, they usually recommend the left side as inlet and right side as outlet. So, unless you're mounting the CPU block upside down, that'll kind of go against what they advise. Perhaps you could do:
> 
> Res -> res -> GPU's -> left RAM (bottom) -> Southbridge -> CPU -> VRM -> right RAM


You scared me there for a sec, since this is the way my CPU block is hooked up now. Then I checked and realized I do have it mounted upside down.








However, I'll probably change that, in which case my drawing is incorrect.
Thanks for pointing that out!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Do we have any news on the EK HB SLI bridge? I just dropped a ton of cash for finishing up my loop, and that's the only part I'm missing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> aye! I'm waiting on this as well


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeviathanVI*
> 
> Yep. Me too.


I sent an email to the HQ for an update. I will let you know.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oO-Waschbaer-Oo*
> 
> any news on when the gtx 1080 SeaHawk EK X will be avialable again ?? waiting for 2 month now .. already paid the card and my old card drops more and more in price.... msi wont tell my why we dont get the card shipped yet and the shops only tell me i could buy another card that cost much more than this one .. bah .... msi said once to me its a ek waterblocks problem ? maybe one of the EK gurus here can answer me the question when it will be available again ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or whats the problem wíth these cards right now


The summer period was quite crazy with a ton of new products and our production dept. is a bit overloaded. So it's most probably why there was some delays. We hope to resume our normal pace of production very soon. Sorry about that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*
> 
> Any news on the fullcover block for the EVGA GTX1080 FTW? It was originally supposed to be ready atleast at month ago as far as i remeber...


I sent an email to the HQ for an update. I will let you know too.


----------



## akira749

ASUS Rampage V Edition 10 water block kit is now available!

It's been available for a while but I forgot to create the thread. Sorry about that.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> ASUS Rampage V Edition 10 water block kit is now available!
> 
> It's been available for a while but I forgot to create the thread. Sorry about that.


How about for the strix


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> How about for the strix


If you're referring to the X99 Strix Gaming board, our EK-FB ASUS X99 Monoblock is compatible with it.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> If you're referring to the X99 Strix Gaming board, our EK-FB ASUS X99 Monoblock is compatible with it.


you the best but I can not use a monoblock due to the custom CPU block


----------



## Mega Man

Sure you can. Just get rid of it...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> you the best but I can not use a monoblock due to the custom CPU block


Because you are running inverted or goofy?


----------



## fbmowner

So glad I installed the clear top for my Supremacy Evo block when I did rigid tubing, it looks great but those air bubbles are drivin me nuts!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fbmowner*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glad I installed the clear top for my Supremacy Evo block when I did rigid tubing, it looks great but those air bubbles are drivin me nuts!


They'll go away eventually, no worries. Also, keep tipping your case around and side to side once or twice a day, that will help dislodge them, but that's the money shot right thare!


----------



## HeyThereGuy

Just wondering is there any chance that we see a full cover water block for the Gigabyte Xtreme Gaming 1080?


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*
> 
> Any news on the fullcover block for the EVGA GTX1080 FTW? It was originally supposed to be ready atleast at month ago as far as i remeber...


From what I was told, it is supposed to be end of August or early September. That was from EK email to someone on this site iirc...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyThereGuy*
> 
> Just wondering is there any chance that we see a full cover water block for the Gigabyte Xtreme Gaming 1080?


We don't have plans to make a block for this card sorry.


----------



## smicha

What about Asrock X99 WS E waterblock plans?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> What about Asrock X99 WS E waterblock plans?


No plans

We don't usually have blocks for AsRock and we rarely have blocks for workstations boards (even the Asus WS boards)


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No plans
> 
> We don't usually have blocks for AsRock and we rarely have blocks for workstations boards (even the Asus WS boards)


Sad...


----------



## keme

Hi,

I recently purchased the EK-KIT P360 and i'm so happy with it.

This is my first watercooling loop and I have few questions.

In the user manual you ask to plug the fans to the dedicated cpu fans header and for the EK-XRES D5 PWM too.
Unfortunately i have only one dedicated cpu header.

If i have only one possibility, is it better to plug the fans or the pump?
If i don't plug the pump at all (exept with my psu







). Is it working at maximum speed? Any problem with that?

Sorry for my poor knowledge of english.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keme*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I recently purchased the EK-KIT P360 and i'm so happy with it.
> 
> This is my first watercooling loop and I have few questions.
> 
> In the user manual you ask to plug the fans to the dedicated cpu fans header and for the EK-XRES D5 PWM too.
> Unfortunately i have only one dedicated cpu header.
> 
> If i have only one possibility, is it better to plug the fans or the pump?
> If i don't plug the pump at all (exept with my psu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Is it working at maximum speed? Any problem with that?
> 
> Sorry for my poor knowledge of english.


If I recall properly.

As part of the Kit you should have this EK-Cable Y-Splitter 2-Fan PWM (10cm)
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cable-y-splitter-2-fan-pwm-10cm

Code:



Code:


EK-KIT P360 water cooling kit includes:
- Universal CPU water block: EK-Supremacy EVO (incl. LED diode, mounting- & thermal material)
- Radiator: EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Triple)
- Radiator fan: EK-Vardar F3-120 (1850rpm) (3pcs)
- Water pump-reservoir combo: EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump)
- Tubing: PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 10/13mm (3/8'' - 1/2'') (2 meters)
- Compression fittings: EK-ACF Fitting 10/13mm (3/8'' - 1/2'') - G1/4 Nickel (6 pcs)
- Coolant concentrate:EK-Ekoolant EVO Clear (100mL; for 1L of coolant)
- Y-cable splitter: EK-Cable Y-Splitter 3-Fan PWM (10cm) 
- ATX bridging plug

from https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-p360


----------



## keme

Actually not. I have this one:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cable-y-splitter-3-fan-dc-10cm
For my 3 fans


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keme*
> 
> Actually not. I have this one:
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cable-y-splitter-3-fan-dc-10cm
> For my 3 fans


Yup, that works too, just plug that in, then you can connect both the Pump and the Fans


----------



## keme

But this splitter is already connected to my 3 fans. I can't connect it to my pump.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Yup, that works too, just plug that in, then you can connect both the Pump and the Fans


I think the issue is, his mobo only has one header. He can only plug in the 3 fans or the pump NOT both. At least thats my understanding. Me personally, i would run the pump off the mobo so you can set the speed, then use molex for all 3 fans.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> I think the issue is, his mobo only has one header. He can only plug in the 3 fans or the pump NOT both. At least thats my understanding. Me personally, i would run the pump off the mobo so you can set the speed, then use molex for all 3 fans.


I saw that, he can still connect 2 fans and 1 pump off that 3 way splitter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keme*
> 
> But this splitter is already connected to my 3 fans. I can't connect it to my pump.


Alternatively get an extra 2 way splitter, to connect the pump, then connect the 3 way splitter into the 2 way splitter.

That's why in my earlier reply I was thinking about the 2 way Y splitter.

or as *bluej511* said, you can always connect the fans to Molex, and have the pump going into the motherboard.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is not true at all.
> 
> it can be a delta
> 
> all a delta is is a difference. whether it be temp, time, vacuum, ect, ect
> 
> an ambient temp. is an ambient temp.
> 
> if you tried to tell me " when my ac came on it was 79, so now it is 79 in the room" i would laugh at you.
> 
> ambient temp, needs to be taken AT the time of measuring loop temp, to get a water-air delta. besides that you have to take an ambient to get a delta. ( air to water temp delta )
> 
> not from when you begin gaming
> the bold section, while might be true, is not necessarily true
> 
> he could
> 
> have fans set low due to noise
> have poor rad fans
> have general poor airflow
> dirty rads/intakes/exhausts
> any combination of the above, and / or more
> also the assumption that " heat rises" so you should " make top case fans exhausts" is EXCESSIVELY false in a pc case that is not 100% passive( please note i never said you stated either, nor any statement made here )
> 
> heat does not rise nor " should " you make top case fans exhaust.
> 
> you should however evaluate it for yourself. as no 2 pcs are the same ( custom built ) - in a case that is not 100% passively cooled, the heat goes where ever i tell it to go. via the fan.


calm down, I was referring to his specific scenario. He was describing a change in temp over time, which is a delta. P.S. Time isn't a delta, it's a part of a delta, unless you are referring to the oh-so-common practice of accelerating close to the speed of light...


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fbmowner*
> 
> 
> 
> So glad I installed the clear top for my Supremacy Evo block when I did rigid tubing, it looks great but those air bubbles are drivin me nuts!


I had the same leave the case on its side for a half hour it will go away. Also if you are using primo chill fittings there watch that plexi block i be seen several people have it splinter after a little. My cpu block did it twice before I switch fittings. It's with the primo chill fittings themselves as there threads are slightly bigger than normal


----------



## fbmowner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I had the same leave the case on its side for a half hour it will go away. Also if you are using primo chill fittings there watch that plexi block i be seen several people have it splinter after a little. My cpu block did it twice before I switch fittings. It's with the primo chill fittings themselves as there threads are slightly bigger than normal


Yikes, I will defiantly keep an eye out thanks a bunch for the heads up.


----------



## HeyThereGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We don't have plans to make a block for this card sorry.


Thanks. I will do some more reading and find an alternative card for my build.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fbmowner*
> 
> 
> 
> So glad I installed the clear top for my Supremacy Evo block when I did rigid tubing, it looks great but those air bubbles are drivin me nuts!
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same leave the case on its side for a half hour it will go away. Also if you are using primo chill fittings there watch that plexi block i be seen several people have it splinter after a little. My cpu block did it twice before I switch fittings. It's with the primo chill fittings themselves as there threads are slightly bigger than normal
Click to expand...

It's not specific to PrimoChill. Any fitting which uses a allen/hex key or wrench to snug the base has the issue with any Acrylic block. I only hand tighten + 1/4 turn my fittings in Acrylic tops. Haven't had a single leak.







... *knocks on forehead* ... lulz









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keme*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I recently purchased the EK-KIT P360 and i'm so happy with it.
> 
> This is my first watercooling loop and I have few questions.
> 
> In the user manual you ask to plug the fans to the dedicated cpu fans header and for the EK-XRES D5 PWM too.
> Unfortunately i have only one dedicated cpu header.
> 
> If i have only one possibility, is it better to plug the fans or the pump?
> If i don't plug the pump at all (exept with my psu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Is it working at maximum speed? Any problem with that?
> 
> Sorry for my poor knowledge of english.


Can you tell me which motherboard you have?


----------



## fbmowner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's not specific to PrimoChill. Any fitting which uses a allen/hex key or wrench to snug the base has the issue with any Acrylic block. I only hand tighten + 1/4 turn my fittings in Acrylic tops. Haven't had a single leak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... *knocks on forehead* ... lulz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I only use hand tight force for block fittings, rips my fingers up but I am horrified of over tightening.


----------



## 0ldChicken

I just noticed stress cracks inside my new acrylic Evo top while working on my loop this weekend. I've only ever hand tightened my fittings and even then I don't go all out... looks like I'll be getting another new top soon


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I just noticed stress cracks inside my new acrylic Evo top while working on my loop this weekend. I've only ever hand tightened my fittings and even then I don't go all out... looks like I'll be getting another new top soon


Damn I hope mine doesnt do it. Same thing only finger tighten and VERY careful not too much pressure. Will be keeping a very close eye on mine, as it is the first time I have used this block.


----------



## fitzy-775

I am about to order my ek 360 radiator, and i was wondering what RPM vardar fans i should be getting?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> I am about to order my ek 360 radiator, and i was wondering what RPM vardar fans i should be getting?


Which radiator thickness did you choose? Do you privilege Silence over Performance or the other way around? Are you doing push-pull or only push or pull?


----------



## akira749

Hi everyone,

I will post this message in a few threads so i'm sorry for those who will read it a few times.

Some ETA updates of some blocks that I receive a fair amount of questions :

Rampage V Edition 10 Acetal Monoblock --> Late-September
1070 and 1080 FTW block --> Mid-September
EK HB Sli Bridge --> no ETA yet
1070 and 1080 Pallit Jetstream block --> Late-September
I'm really sorry for those delays


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I will post this message in a few threads so i'm sorry for those who will read it a few times.
> 
> Some ETA updates of some blocks that I receive a fair amount of questions :
> 
> Rampage V Edition 10 Acetal Monoblock --> Late-September
> 1070 and 1080 FTW block --> Mid-September
> EK HB Sli Bridge --> no ETA yet
> 1070 and 1080 Pallit Jetstream block --> Late-September
> I'm really sorry for those delays


So no block for the 1070/1080 Asus Turbo Cards


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So no block for the 1070/1080 Asus Turbo Cards


No sorry.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Had to ask so I can inform my own customers. So I'll push them towards the more OEM PCB cards


----------



## AllGamer

*@akira749*
Do you happen to know if they will be re-stocking the EK-AF X-Splitter 4F G1/4 - Black Nickel

I kind of like Nickel Black more than the plain Black version.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Had to ask so I can inform my own customers. So I'll push them towards the more OEM PCB cards


No problems









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@akira749*
> Do you happen to know if they will be re-stocking the EK-AF X-Splitter 4F G1/4 - Black Nickel
> 
> I kind of like Nickel Black more than the plain Black version.


Good question. I'll ask and let you know.


----------



## fitzy-775

Hey akrira I am going to be getting the PE 360 40mm radiator and i will be doing push only and i will be overclocking my cpu.


----------



## Kutalion

Imo just get 120ER fans that have a VERY wide rpm range, so they will fit any scenario.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> Hey akrira I am going to be getting the PE 360 40mm radiator and i will be doing push only and i will be overclocking my cpu.


Then I would go with the EK-Vardar F4-120ER or the EK-Vardar F3-120.


----------



## AllGamer

*@akira749*
So, I'm finally settling down and making up my mind to use PETG and was trying to figure out how many tubes of 500mm I'll need

*EK-HD PETG Tube 12/16mm 500mm (2pcs)* https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-petg-tube-12-16mm-500mm-2pcs

You are a fellow *S8* owner, Do you remember roughly *how many tubes did you end up using?*

here's a rough sketch of my planned install http://www.overclock.net/t/1608897/build-log-upside-down-s8-project/0_50#post_25452195



2x EK-CoolStream PE 360 in the Top
1x EK-CoolStream PE 360 in the Left compartment
1x EK-CoolStream PE 240 in the Front FlexBays
2x EK-CoolStream XE 360 in the Pedestal
1x EK-Supremacy EVO
1x EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Parallel
2x EK-XTOP Revo D5
2x EK-RES X3 250 .... (unless I end up with 2x Monsoon still undecided







)

I'm thinking 4x or maybe 6x 500mm PETG tube should be enough right?

I'll probably waste 2 tubes for practice since it's my first build.

Related question, *Does EK keep the tubes in separate packaging to prevent scuffing and scratches during shipping?*
I've read horror stories from other brands shipping, and ending with tubes scratched / scuffed due poor packaging.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@akira749*
> So, I'm finally settling down and making up my mind to use PETG and was trying to figure out how many tubes of 500mm I'll need
> 
> *EK-HD PETG Tube 12/16mm 500mm (2pcs)* https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-petg-tube-12-16mm-500mm-2pcs
> 
> You are a fellow *S8* owner, Do you remember roughly *how many tubes did you end up using?*
> 
> here's a rough sketch of my planned install http://www.overclock.net/t/1608897/build-log-upside-down-s8-project/0_50#post_25452195
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2x EK-CoolStream PE 360 in the Top
> 1x EK-CoolStream PE 360 in the Left compartment
> 1x EK-CoolStream PE 240 in the Front FlexBays
> 2x EK-CoolStream XE 360 in the Pedestal
> 1x EK-Supremacy EVO
> 1x EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Parallel
> 2x EK-XTOP Revo D5
> 2x EK-RES X3 250 .... (unless I end up with 2x Monsoon still undecided
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> I'm thinking 4x or maybe 6x 500mm PETG tube should be enough right?
> 
> I'll probably waste 2 tubes for practice since it's my first build.
> 
> Related question, *Does EK keep the tubes in separate packaging to prevent scuffing and scratches during shipping?*
> I've read horror stories from other brands shipping, and ending with tubes scratched / scuffed due poor packaging.


I used 4 x 500mm so 2 packs of EK-HD Acrylic Tube. But I only used hard tubing in the main compartment. The pedestal was all in soft tubing and I only had 2 x 360 in the main compartment so my loop was way smaller then yours.

So your estimate is not bad.

As for the packaging, let me check tonight when I get back home to be sure but from what I remember, each tube of the paie has it's own packaging.


----------



## JunkStar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I will post this message in a few threads so i'm sorry for those who will read it a few times.
> 
> Some ETA updates of some blocks that I receive a fair amount of questions :
> 
> Rampage V Edition 10 Acetal Monoblock --> Late-September
> 1070 and 1080 FTW block --> Mid-September
> EK HB Sli Bridge --> no ETA yet
> 1070 and 1080 Pallit Jetstream block --> Late-September
> I'm really sorry for those delays


Goddammit! I really want that GPU block to be from EK like the rest of my setup but you guys are forcing to look elsewhere with these massive delays... Thats a full 2 month delay over the original date as far as i remeber...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I will post this message in a few threads so i'm sorry for those who will read it a few times.
> 
> Some ETA updates of some blocks that I receive a fair amount of questions :
> 
> Rampage V Edition 10 Acetal Monoblock --> Late-September
> 1070 and 1080 FTW block --> Mid-September
> EK HB Sli Bridge --> no ETA yet
> 1070 and 1080 Pallit Jetstream block --> Late-September
> I'm really sorry for those delays
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Goddammit! I really want that GPU block to be from EK like the rest of my setup but you guys are forcing to look elsewhere with these massive delays... Thats a full 2 month delay over the original date as far as i remeber...
Click to expand...

Just be glad you weren't waiting on a Signalkuppe . . .


----------



## DarthBaggins

Glad I got the x99 Strix Gaming so I can still get a monoblock if I want-just going with CPU over mono


----------



## TheParisHeaton

Hi, new there. 2x980ti, x99 EVO, EK-FB KIT R5E, XE480mm, XTOP Revo D5, tragic EK-RES X4 and lots of cables.







:


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheParisHeaton*
> 
> Hi, new there. 2x980ti, x99 EVO, EK-FB KIT R5E, XE480mm, XTOP Revo D5, tragic EK-RES X4 and lots of cables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


only one 480 rad for two 980tis and x99 cpu?? boy I feel sorry for those chips...


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> only one 480 rad for two 980tis and x99 cpu?? boy I feel sorry for those chips...


Not every case supports massive rad space... I have an X99 CPU and two 980Tis and maximum I went is 360+240, because there is no place for more in my case


----------



## TheParisHeaton

Another Alphacool is on TOP.








With one it would be a really deep fryer.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Not every case supports massive rad space... I have an X99 CPU and two 980Tis and maximum I went is 360+240, because there is no place for more in my case


that's the part(and idea) of water cooling; pick your components wisely to cool chips as good as possible. 360+240 weren't even enough for my old gtx970 and i5 4690k... I don't even wanna think what happens to your system.
you're better off air cool them.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> that's the part(and idea) of water cooling; pick your components wisely to cool chips as good as possible. 360+240 weren't even enough for my old gtx970 and i5 4690k... I don't even wanna think what happens to your system.
> you're better off air cool them.


As long as I am not overclocking balls to the walls, it shouldn't be that tragic... or?

Funny, that before this I had one 980Ti and a 5820K on a single 360 and no issues whatsoever, 25°C idle and 50°C at load


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> that's the part(and idea) of water cooling; pick your components wisely to cool chips as good as possible. 360+240 weren't even enough for my old gtx970 and i5 4690k... I don't even wanna think what happens to your system.
> you're better off air cool them.


I find that VERY hard to believe. I have a 360+240 for an i5 [email protected] and an r9 390 which runs FAR hotter then a gtx 970. My r9 390 with your average ambient temp of 21°C has never gone above 43°C and my i5 4690k would never even reach 50°C.

But to each his own. Personally i wouldn't buy a case and then decide what rads to use because it fits. Id buy a couple 360s or a couple 480s then decide what case would fit that. The point isn't the more the better, the point is, the more the better and the cooler everything will stay, including the very important VRMs on the gpus.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> I find that VERY hard to believe. I have a 360+240 for an i5 [email protected] and an r9 390 which runs FAR hotter then a gtx 970. My r9 390 with your average ambient temp of 21°C has never gone above 43°C and my i5 4690k would never even reach 50°C.
> 
> But to each his own. Personally i wouldn't buy a case and then decide what rads to use because it fits. Id buy a couple 360s or a couple 480s then decide what case would fit that. The point isn't the more the better, the point is, the more the better and the cooler everything will stay, including the very important VRMs on the gpus.


goals. my is water temp not reaching 30°C on max load for hrs of gaming.
and SILENCE. I don't spin my fans over 900rpm because it's too loud for me, that's why I go with rad area.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> goals. my is water temp not reaching 30°C on max load for hrs of gaming.
> and SILENCE. I don't spin my fans over 900rpm because it's too loud for me, that's why I go with rad area.


Ok i spin mine at 1100-1200rpm still pretty damn silent and thats with one rad being push/pull. If my ambient is 21°C with no AC, my case ambient will be 21-23°C and my water temp would be 28-29°C. Pretty sure the UK is also quite a bit cooler then southern France lol.

Might need better case airflow if a 360/240 weren't enough.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> that's the part(and idea) of water cooling; pick your components wisely to cool chips as good as possible. 360+240 weren't even enough for my old gtx970 and i5 4690k... I don't even wanna think what happens to your system.
> you're better off air cool them.


That's wierd. Two thin 280 rads with low SP fans is more than enough for my overclocked 970s and an overclocked 5930k. Perhaps it was something other than the amount of rad space you had.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> That's wierd. Two thin 280 rads with low SP fans is more than enough for my overclocked 970s and an overclocked 5930k. Perhaps it was something other than the amount of rad space you had.


like I said before, less than 30°C water temp and fans spinning at 600-800 is my goal. don't know what's "enough" for you


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> like I said before, less than 30°C water temp and fans spinning at 600-800 is my goal. don't know what's "enough" for you


Thats where im at with fan speeds a bit higher at 1100-1200 but you would need some low fpi rads to run fans that low. They'd produce barely any static pressure at that low of an rpm and if you have high fpi fans your temps would well, pretty much suck. Also very highly depends on how you have the rads set up. If one is set as intake and one as exhaust, the one as exhaust is just going to suck up 35°C+ air temps instead of cool ambient air. Ive tested exhaust air temps out of the rad and they get quite warm.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Hey, EK - got a problem here. Hey @akira749

I had bought a pair of Ek Water Blocks EK-FC7970 - EN Nickel Plated Clear Full Cover for my Radeon HD 7970Ghz Edition GPU (CSQ Design) which has been flaking badly. I had it running for about a year with distilled water and Dazmode Protector.

https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_protector/



Here's the photos which showing the flaking when dismantling for summer cleaning....











So Am I qualified for a RMA or it's a lost cause??

I have been buying EK products for long time and been a loyal customer, I even referred alot of friends to EK as well.

Hope it will get resolved.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> like I said before, less than 30°C water temp and fans spinning at 600-800 is my goal. don't know what's "enough" for you


I just thought it strange that you would tell someone that you "feel sorry" for chips being cooled by a 480, which is more than enough rad space to keep them at temperatures that would guarantee a long life. Then you went on to imply that they should just use air instead... I didn't understand that you were holding them to unrealistic goals and standards that you use for your system, thanks for clarifying.


----------



## LawClerkz847

I gotta say, that's damn disappointing to read. EK makes really incredible stuff, and its a real bummer to see you guys limit yourselves to just a single colored radiator.

looks like its XSPC for this guy on the radiator front. Still gonna rock that EK White 240 though. That's too sexy to pass up


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LawClerkz847*
> 
> I gotta say, that's damn disappointing to read. EK makes really incredible stuff, and its a real bummer to see you guys limit yourselves to just a single colored radiator.
> 
> looks like its XSPC for this guy on the radiator front. Still gonna rock that EK White 240 though. That's too sexy to pass up


Just spray your rad white, the finish on the XSPC rads, atleast the monsta 360mm I have is really poor and once I've repaired it, I will respray it by hand and it will look a lot better.

EDIT: I was mistaken, the rad is an Alphacool not an XSPC one.


----------



## LawClerkz847

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Just spray your rad white, the finish on the XSPC rads, atleast the monsta 360mm I have is really poor and once I've repaired it, I will respray it by hand and it will look a lot better.


Its nice to get some feedback on the XSPC 360, that was the exact model I planned to get!

But i'll still get that over an EK. Im not exactly a DIY kinda guy, and making a cooling loop for the first time will be enough of a challenge for me. So while id love to mod an EK 360 radiator, im not gonna risk a warranty or my parts on it. I really do have the upmost respect for EK, but simple economics tells us if they don't offer the product, i'll find someone who does and give my business to them instead.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LawClerkz847*
> 
> Its nice to get some feedback on the XSPC 360, that was the exact model I planned to get!
> 
> But i'll still get that over an EK. Im not exactly a DIY kinda guy, and making a cooling loop for the first time will be enough of a challenge for me. So while id love to mod an EK 360 radiator, im not gonna risk a warranty or my parts on it. I really do have the upmost respect for EK, but simple economics tells us if they don't offer the product, i'll find someone who does and give my business to them instead.


I'd just paint it, not sure how paint removes warranty tbh?


----------



## LawClerkz847

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'd just paint it, not sure how paint removes warranty tbh?


I wont speculate on the _how_, suffice to say that EK told us it does


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Just spray your rad white, the finish on the XSPC rads, atleast the monsta 360mm I have is really poor and once I've repaired it, I will respray it by hand and it will look a lot better.


You mean Alphacool? XSPC has the RX, EX and AX rads and the AX in particular is very well built (it is a white powdercoat on the aluminum frame, not paint). Alphacool has the ST30, XT45, UT60 and Monsta rads.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LawClerkz847*
> 
> Its nice to get some feedback on the XSPC 360, that was the exact model I planned to get!
> 
> But i'll still get that over an EK. Im not exactly a DIY kinda guy, and making a cooling loop for the first time will be enough of a challenge for me. So while id love to mod an EK 360 radiator, im not gonna risk a warranty or my parts on it. I really do have the upmost respect for EK, but simple economics tells us if they don't offer the product, i'll find someone who does and give my business to them instead.


See above, he may not have given you the right feedback.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You mean Alphacool? XSPC has the RX, EX and AX rads and the AX in particular is very well built (it is a white powdercoat on the aluminum frame, not paint). Alphacool has the ST30, XT45, UT60 and Monsta rads.
> See above, he may not have given you the right feedback.


Yeah I was mistaken it's an Alphacool sorry. I'll edit my post now so it avoids further confusion. Thanks for the correction.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Yeah I was mistaken it's an Alphacool sorry. I'll edit my post now so it avoids further confusion. Thanks for the correction.


No worries


----------



## Sazexa

My build is extremely close to "complete," not quite so, but I suppose close enough to call "complete."


----------



## HeyThereGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We don't have plans to make a block for this card sorry.


Who would one bribe to get two of these made?


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyThereGuy*
> 
> Who would one bribe to get two of these made?


Maybe you want to try out the block for the 980 Ti Xtreme Gaming. The PCBs look very similar.


----------



## DrFreeman35

I'm looking to install the Monoblock for the RVE10 and was wondering if anyone has any advice? Is it the same performance as just cooling the CPU/VRM/Chipset separately? I was looking at doing this for easier runs/less parts for my first time building a PC, and water cooling. Not sure if this question suits this thread.... Thanks


----------



## JunkStar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Just be glad you weren't waiting on a Signalkuppe . . .


I actually were lol... The complete lack of any information from EK made me look elsewhere and i found the Corsair Commander Mini which solved my problems... Shame tho that EK failed to deliver on their promise


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> My build is extremely close to "complete," not quite so, but I suppose close enough to call "complete."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice!


----------



## kamifushou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I will post this message in a few threads so i'm sorry for those who will read it a few times.
> 
> Some ETA updates of some blocks that I receive a fair amount of questions :
> 
> Rampage V Edition 10 Acetal Monoblock --> Late-September
> 1070 and 1080 FTW block --> Mid-September
> EK HB Sli Bridge --> no ETA yet
> 1070 and 1080 Pallit Jetstream block --> Late-September
> I'm really sorry for those delays


Does the eta for FTW blocks also apply to the 1080 Classified?


----------



## Exilon

Just finished my mostly EK based loop with 280 + 140 CE rads. With about 500W of heat dissipated by the loop, I'm getting about 6C coolant temperature rise which is pretty good I guess. Fitting 280 + 140 in push/pull in an Enthoo Evolv ATX isn't pretty but it works









How much delta between the coolant and a 980 Ti should I expect? I think I need to tighten the GPU waterblock some more


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exilon*
> 
> Just finished my mostly EK based loop with 280 + 140 CE rads. With about 500W of heat dissipated by the loop, I'm getting about 6C coolant temperature rise which is pretty good I guess. Fitting 280 + 140 in push/pull in an Enthoo Evolv ATX isn't pretty but it works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much delta between the coolant and a 980 Ti should I expect? I think I need to tighten the GPU waterblock some more


I dont see how those 2 rads are dissipating 500w its probably closer to 300 but 6°C is pretty amazing. Curious how you're measuring temps though.

Im at about 400w with a 360 and 240 and get 6-7°C


----------



## Exilon

I have an inline thermal probe that matches my GPU and CPU idle temperature floor. So confidence in the measurement is high.

As for how those are dissipating 500W, lets just say 2K RPM Vardar fans and closed back headphones. I know it's around 500W because I'm reading 550W from the wall.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamifushou*
> 
> Does the eta for FTW blocks also apply to the 1080 Classified?


I will try to know


----------



## RnRollie

yes, radiator "performance" or "dissipation capacity" depends on the environment
In the right circumstances a single 120mm rad can dissipate 300 Watts..







for example: loop temp 50°C, ambient 12°C However, having LOTS MOAR radiator surface is of course better than trying to surf the limits


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> yes, radiator "performance" or "dissipation capacity" depends on the environment
> In the right circumstances a single 120mm rad can dissipate 300 Watts..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for example: loop temp 50°C, ambient 12°C However, having LOTS MOAR radiator surface is of course better than trying to surf the limits


Agreed. Id rather take more rads with less noise then less rads with more noise. Even without headphones my system is ridiculously quiet and thats with a dozen fans.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exilon*
> 
> With about 500W of heat dissipated by the loop, I'm getting about 6C coolant temperature rise which is pretty good I guess. Fitting 280 + 140 in push/pull in an Enthoo Evolv ATX isn't pretty but it works


Is 500W a sum of TDPs, or the actual sustained heat output? I once had a loop with 170W of heat dissipated per 120 mm rad section, and delta T was easily in the 15-20 C range. With more rads I am now at 70 W per 120 mm section, and delta T is still around 10 C. That's the actual dissipated heat, not just TDP. Think of something like Furmark running 24/7. My flow rate is low so maybe with better flow the results would improve.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exilon*
> 
> How much delta between the coolant and a 980 Ti should I expect? I think I need to tighten the GPU waterblock some more


With Titan Blacks and XSPC waterblocks, I'm seeing a stable 5-7 C difference between water and GPU die temperature readings, under continuous load. A fraction of this when idle or under light load.


----------



## GTRtank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exilon*
> 
> Just finished my mostly EK based loop with 280 + 140 CE rads. With about 500W of heat dissipated by the loop, I'm getting about 6C coolant temperature rise which is pretty good I guess. Fitting 280 + 140 in push/pull in an Enthoo Evolv ATX isn't pretty but it works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much delta between the coolant and a 980 Ti should I expect? I think I need to tighten the GPU waterblock some more


My delta between ambient and my 980ti is 17c, on a fire strike stress test. Gaming is around 15c. No matter what paste I use, the GPU jumps up 12c as soon as load is applied, then slowly increases from there as the coolant rises, up to 17. 1.225v @ 1481mhz, and fans and pumps set to 70% PWM.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> I dont see how those 2 rads are dissipating 500w its probably closer to 300 but 6°C is pretty amazing. Curious how you're measuring temps though.
> 
> Im at about 400w with a 360 and 240 and get 6-7°C


Does anyone have some link or reference where I can learn more about the Watt of heat dissipation, and how to measure or guestimate the Watt of heat produced by our components like SLI GPU + CPU + VRM, etc...

I've found a few about heat, Watt and BTU, but all those are for Industrial cooling, and they measure it in TONS of water, we normal computer guys use MPG or L/H at the most, and I've no clue where to get the data for how much Watt of heat our GPUs + CPU + VRM

I know we can find the temperature for GPUs / CPU / VRM, but how do we change that back to Watt of heat?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

@AllGamer - GPUs and CPUs/motherboards report consumed power which monitoring tools show, e.g. EVGA's PrecisionX and ASUS's AI Suite, and any similar tool. That's a good place to start.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> @AllGamer - GPUs and CPUs/motherboards report consumed power which monitoring tools show, e.g. EVGA's PrecisionX and ASUS's AI Suite, and any similar tool. That's a good place to start.


ahh... yes, I totally forgot (ignored) the rest of the displays

I usually only look at the Temp and Fan speed, yes now that you mentioned they do also show power used, specially in the MSI Afterburner software.

I'll have to play with some of that later when I get home.

Thanks.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Does anyone have some link or reference where I can learn more about the Watt of heat dissipation, and how to measure or guestimate the Watt of heat produced by our components like SLI GPU + CPU + VRM, etc...
> 
> I've found a few about heat, Watt and BTU, but all those are for Industrial cooling, and they measure it in TONS of water, we normal computer guys use MPG or L/H at the most, and I've no clue where to get the data for how much Watt of heat our GPUs + CPU + VRM
> 
> I know we can find the temperature for GPUs / CPU / VRM, but how do we change that back to Watt of heat?


Just google reviews for each product youll get the power consumption. Extremerigs has a good analysis on rads and wattage dissipated. I think a 360 is at least 300w or so and a 240 is probably around 200w or so just a ballpark.


----------



## Darkstar757

Everything is in place now. I will start my build log this weekend.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Ah what a tease! I demand those boxes opened now!


----------



## Darkstar757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Ah what a tease! I demand those boxes opened now!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Ah what a tease! I demand those boxes opened now!


Im hoping these ek fittings are as good as bitspower. This is my first time using their fittings.


----------



## Mazda6i07

__
https://flic.kr/p/KCcvZa


__
https://flic.kr/p/KCcvZa


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> Im hoping these ek fittings are as good as bitspower. This is my first time using their fittings.


There won't be much difference between them tbh. They're just lumps of brass covered in paint.


----------



## DarthBaggins

No more BitsPower support from me.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> Everything is in place now. I will start my build log this weekend.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I see you ordered the Bitspower Flow meter...

I've read a lot of complains about it, that it gets stuck after a while, or that it doesn't flow properly.

Let me know how it turns out for you, as I was planning to pick up one of those as well, but decided not to after reading those reviews / comments.


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Excellent. Getting it. Been waiting for this increase in size...(#Ladies)

https://www.ekwb.com/news/first-reveal-of-the-ek-xlc-predator-280/


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunnzAkimbo*
> 
> Excellent. Getting it. Been waiting for this increase in size...(#Ladies)
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/news/first-reveal-of-the-ek-xlc-predator-280/


Here's hoping that they also come out with standalone radiators you can add in, and/or a config with no cpu block and say a thermosphere instead. But standalone radiator would be nice, because then one could cool the CPU, a gpu, and have 560mm of radiator space ^_^


----------



## Snaporz

Question regarding the EK-Res X3 250. I was thinking of using 2 of them side by side in 1 loop just to fill up some space in the case. Now the manual says I can't use port 6 at the top as an inlet... However, I want to. Does that actually hamper performance of the res in some way?


----------



## Asus11

how comes EK didnt make a separate block for resale like the one they use on the HAWK X ?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snaporz*
> 
> Question regarding the EK-Res X3 250. I was thinking of using 2 of them side by side in 1 loop just to fill up some space in the case. Now the manual says I can't use port 6 at the top as an inlet... However, I want to. Does that actually hamper performance of the res in some way?


There is no technical reason why you "can not" you can actually use it.
but from their design point of view, the top inlet was "dedicated" for re-fills

but you can always use any of the other ports for the same purpose to re-fill your res, so it's really up to you.

The other reason is the "air bubbles" when you let water drop from the top hitting the water at the mid / bottom, it causes bubbles, just like when you pee in the toilet









so people say bubbles are not good for you as that makes noise and reduces cooling performance as the bubbles inside the loop takes space away from the water cooling surfaces.

but for that you can always use the EK insert, or the EK foam (included?) to prevent the bubbling. well technically those 2 are supposed to stop the Tornado inside the cylinder, which also causes bubbles, just like when you flush the toilet, and all that circling water goes down the drain chucking down water and air.


----------



## Snaporz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> There is no technical reason why you "can not" you can actually use it.
> but from their design point of view, the top inlet was "dedicated" for re-fills
> 
> but you can always use any of the other ports for the same purpose to re-fill your res, so it's really up to you.
> 
> The other reason is the "air bubbles" when you let water drop from the top hitting the water at the mid / bottom, it causes bubbles, just like when you pee in the toilet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so people say bubbles are not good for you as that makes noise and reduces cooling performance as the bubbles inside the loop takes space away from the water cooling surfaces.
> 
> but for that you can always use the EK insert, or the EK foam (included?) to prevent the bubbling. well technically those 2 are supposed to stop the Tornado inside the cylinder, which also causes bubbles, just like when you flush the toilet, and all that circling water goes down the drain chucking down water and air.


I figured I'd be all set since I can technically fill/bleed from the 2nd res. Thanks for the confirmation.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> how comes EK didnt make a separate block for resale like the one they use on the HAWK X ?


If you think about it, you can answer that question yourself...


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Hey, EK - got a problem here. Hey @akira749
> 
> I had bought a pair of Ek Water Blocks EK-FC7970 - EN Nickel Plated Clear Full Cover for my Radeon HD 7970Ghz Edition GPU (CSQ Design) which has been flaking badly. I had it running for about a year with distilled water and Dazmode Protector.
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_protector/
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the photos which showing the flaking when dismantling for summer cleaning....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So Am I qualified for a RMA or it's a lost cause??
> 
> I have been buying EK products for long time and been a loyal customer, I even referred alot of friends to EK as well.
> 
> Hope it will get resolved.


Still waiting on the answer... I am well within 2 years warranty period. I hope you guys honor them.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Still waiting on the answer... I am well within 2 years warranty period. I hope you guys honor them.


Open a ticket on EK's website and you'll get your answer quicker. EK reps are very busy people they can't respond to every single post. Akira sometimes is quick but I know he's a mega busy fellow.

If you're within your warranty open a ticket, provide the evidence and hopefully your period will be over in the next few days when you get some fresh blocks.


----------



## Ceadderman

I kinda doubt EK honors that warranty, if DazMode Protector is incompatible with Nickel for any reason. Hope I am wrong however.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I kinda doubt EK honors that warranty, if DazMode Protector is incompatible with Nickel for any reason. Hope I am wrong however.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quite surprised at the lack of information on Daz's site.


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> If you think about it, you can answer that question yourself...


I have a feeling why, but its lame, also making the separate one look so boring in comparison


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I kinda doubt EK honors that warranty, if DazMode Protector is incompatible with Nickel for any reason. Hope I am wrong however.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I agree


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I kinda doubt EK honors that warranty, if DazMode Protector is incompatible with Nickel for any reason. Hope I am wrong however.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree
Click to expand...

Well iirc(been some time since I've gone there) DazMode doesn't carry EK product. So why would their Protector additive be compatible? Not saying that it isn't but I wouldn't expect it to be w/o first contacting EK and making absolutely sure to get something in writing before making that purchase. It's too late now, but hopefully the age of the block will be the deciding factor since it was released round the time of the Nickel issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well iirc(been some time since I've gone there) DazMode doesn't carry EK product. So why would their Protector additive be compatible? Not saying that it isn't but I wouldn't expect it to be w/o first contacting EK and making absolutely sure to get something in writing before making that purchase. It's too late now, but hopefully the age of the block will be the deciding factor since it was released round the time of the Nickel issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Pretty sure the plating issue was before then but yeah, unless it has silver in it or something then thats why the plating failed but not sure as Daz's site literally lists nothing about what is in that bottle.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Pretty sure that If I had purchased nickel and found I had a problem with them, I wouldn't buy them again. I feel that most of the problems with nickle that I have read were from mixing elements (Copper, certain additives in liquid etc) and some people just don't research enough.

IF there was a genuine problem with the plating, then sure the Manufacturer should be responsible, but most of the problems that occur in the water cooling community are self brought.

TCO


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I kinda doubt EK honors that warranty, if DazMode Protector is incompatible with Nickel for any reason. Hope I am wrong however.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quite surprised at the lack of information on Daz's site.
Click to expand...

I found these posts at Dazmode's Forum:
http://www.dazmode.com/_forum/showthread.php?1291-Coolants-Usage-Discussion&s=7816a322da5d63bd601a0419f7c2fdf3
But, idk if the Dazmode (Fesser) Protector is really compatible with EK's Nickel plating, or what the hell it will do to the new EK Nickel-plated blocks I've installed, if I choose to use it with them.

I still have a bunch of that Dazmode Protector, and I've used it with various EK Copper blocks with no issues.

But, for my re-build, idk what the hell to do now.
I have an EK Nickel block (only kind available) for my 980Ti KPE, and a Nickel Supremacy EVO for the cpu.
I will just be using straight distilled for the loop testing and flushing runs.

But perhaps I may have to source out something safe for the blocks after that, Mayhems XT-1, EK Ecoolant, whatever, who the hell knows, lol.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Anyone know if Thermaltake's C1000 fluid is safe for use w/ EK's ZMT tubing? As it is an EG based fluid.

Hazardous label description:



*Ethanediol Value < 20%*

*CAS 170-21-1
EG 203-473-3
Index 603-027-00-1
Certificate Xn
R-Phrase 22
S-Phrase 2, 24/25,46*


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Anyone know if Thermaltake's C1000 fluid is safe for use w/ EK's ZMT tubing? As it is an EG based fluid.
> Hazardous label description:
> 
> 
> *Ethanediol Value < 20%*
> *CAS 170-21-1
> EG 203-473-3
> Index 603-027-00-1
> Certificate Xn
> R-Phrase 22
> S-Phrase 2, 24/25,46*


I don't see why it wouldn't. Its pretty much the same kind of material used in car coolant hoses eg coolant should be perfectly fine.


----------



## IT Diva

@akira749

Working on my S5 builds and gathering parts, and wondered if EK makes a monoblock for any other matx boards besides the Asus Gene series?

I already have the monoblock for the M8G I have on order, but thought maybe it would be nice to change things up a bit for the other S5 build.

Any idea whether the block for the Gigabyte Gaming 5 atx board also fits the matx version?

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> Working on my S5 builds and gathering parts, and wondered if EK makes a monoblock for any other matx boards besides the Asus Gene series?
> 
> I already have the monoblock for the M8G I have on order, but thought maybe it would be nice to change things up a bit for the other S5 build.
> 
> Any idea whether the block for the Gigabyte Gaming 5 atx board also fits the matx version?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Darlene


The GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 is not in the list of compatible boards for the monoblock but looking at the design of the block I don't know why it wouldn't fit. Maybe some capacitors are higher. I will send an email at the HQ and get back at you.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> how comes EK didnt make a separate block for resale like the one they use on the HAWK X ?


MSI exclusivity


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> I don't see why it wouldn't. Its pretty much the same kind of material used in car coolant hoses eg coolant should be perfectly fine.


Thought it would be, but wanted to double check to prevent any headaches


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Here's hoping that they also come out with standalone radiators you can add in, and/or a config with no cpu block and say a thermosphere instead. But standalone radiator would be nice, because then one could cool the CPU, a gpu, and have 560mm of radiator space ^_^


Yer i wanna add an extra rad but can only think of linking it with some more connectors to the unit somehow without it looking too messy.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> Working on my S5 builds and gathering parts, and wondered if EK makes a monoblock for any other matx boards besides the Asus Gene series?
> 
> I already have the monoblock for the M8G I have on order, but thought maybe it would be nice to change things up a bit for the other S5 build.
> 
> Any idea whether the block for the Gigabyte Gaming 5 atx board also fits the matx version?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> The GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 is not in the list of compatible boards for the monoblock but looking at the design of the block I don't know why it wouldn't fit. Maybe some capacitors are higher. I will send an email at the HQ and get back at you.
Click to expand...

Thanks,

Would be really sweet if it works . . .

Would be nice to have a second option for S5 builds where the builder likes the looks of a monoblock.

D.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Wow ThermalTake is just vicious, this looks very similar to EK's case:


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Wow ThermalTake is just vicious, this looks very similar to EK's case:


Wow.... really?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yup they just posted it on Kenny's FB feed:



__ https://www.facebook.com/Kennylin610123/posts/10208890531073309



CaseLabs now copying EK just wow.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Pretty sure that If I had purchased nickel and found I had a problem with them, I wouldn't buy them again. I feel that most of the problems with nickle that I have read were from mixing elements (Copper, certain additives in liquid etc) and some people just don't research enough.
> 
> IF there was a genuine problem with the plating, then sure the Manufacturer should be responsible, but most of the problems that occur in the water cooling community are self brought.
> 
> TCO


Not always, and there are often issues with people gettin annoyed at people asking for help in the watercooling community like several instantces in this thread alone where people get hung up on it being a picture only thread that has far too much dicussion in it. But hey, Noobs right?!

Nickel is plenty fine, it can be polished to look like new and doesn't really need much more care than copper. EK give instructions here.

There doesn't seem to be a plating issue anymore but people using silver with nickel is bad as it can strip the plating so there is that also.

I have something in the works that will call on the community so erm, yeah, hold tight.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Wow ThermalTake is just vicious, this looks very similar to EK's case:


Is that Tt or CaseLabs that did this? Just for clarification.







Fixed.









Can't say I can really fault either since EK chose not to market it, but still if it's Tt, it goes to show that where there is no accountability that's similar to giving the green light to copy at will.

Kind of hypocritical way to look at it in this instance considering what I said about finding fault. But considering there was demand long ignored I can't be too angry about it. I won't buy one but I'm sure that there are quite a few people who pleaded for them to come to market who will.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yup they just posted it on Kenny's FB feed:
> 
> 
> 
> __ https://www.facebook.com/Kennylin610123/posts/10208890531073309
> 
> 
> 
> First CaseLabs(,) *then Fractal and[.../B] now copying EK just wow.
> *


Fixed DB. Cornfoozed me fer a sec.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

That's the new Thermaltake View 27, going to come shortly at $79.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Would be really sweet if it works . . .
> 
> Would be nice to have a second option for S5 builds where the builder likes the looks of a monoblock.
> 
> D.


Niko got back at me and sadly it doesn't fit.









Sorry Darlene, I guess the only current mATX board supporting a monoblock is the Asus Gene like you said.


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Hey, EK - got a problem here. Hey @akira749
> 
> I had bought a pair of Ek Water Blocks EK-FC7970 - EN Nickel Plated Clear Full Cover for my Radeon HD 7970Ghz Edition GPU (CSQ Design) which has been flaking badly. I had it running for about a year with distilled water and Dazmode Protector.
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_protector/
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the photos which showing the flaking when dismantling for summer cleaning....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So Am I qualified for a RMA or it's a lost cause??
> 
> I have been buying EK products for long time and been a loyal customer, I even referred alot of friends to EK as well.
> 
> Hope it will get resolved.


That looks similar to what mine did...

Distilled water + a little antifreeze









It does not clean off. I went as far as taking a dremal + wire wheel to it. It doesn't do anything to the plating, but doesn't clean up the dark spots.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Wow ThermalTake is just vicious, this looks very similar to EK's case:


Well tbh it is kind of crappy that EK won't sell the vulture to the masses and only a select few got to experience a build in it. We know it won't be near the quality as the vulture, but this will at least let the masses have the same opportunity as those select few.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Is that Tt or CaseLabs that did this? Just for clarification.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't say I can really fault either since EK chose not to market it, but still if it's Tt, it goes to show that where there is no accountability that's similar to giving the green light to copy at will.
> 
> Kind of hypocritical way to look at it in this instance considering what I said about finding fault. But considering there was demand long ignored I can't be too angry about it. I won't buy one but I'm sure that there are quite a few people who pleaded for them to come to market who will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed DB. Cornfoozed me fer a sec.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


yeah meant to fix that, lol. I do wish that EK would release them to the public but it is what it is, doesn't give ground for Tt to copy the design and launch. They keep doing this since the companies they are copying aren't large enough to tie them up in court over it, which needs to be done or else it will just keep happening. Yes, there are only a few ways to remake a box to hold PC parts but this is, like the others, is a clear copy of EK's case. I wont be selling any of their cases or products through work due to this. I've already push clients towards buying the Fractal cases over Tt's and EK's components of TT's as well.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Would be really sweet if it works . . .
> 
> Would be nice to have a second option for S5 builds where the builder likes the looks of a monoblock.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Niko got back at me and sadly it doesn't fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry Darlene, I guess the only current mATX board supporting a monoblock is the Asus Gene like you said.
Click to expand...

Wow, . . . That was quick!

Bugger it won't work, I guess it's back to the drawing board . . .


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Wow ThermalTake is just vicious, this looks very similar to EK's case:


Yay! Another fine thermal fake product.

Their new slogan should be " we don't R&D and pass the savings onto you! "

Or

"Who needs to make their own products? "


----------



## AllGamer

if you guys take notice all the water blocks coming out from TT looks extremely similar to the ones made by EK

if you don't pay attention, you'd easily mistake them for EK water blocks

They are copying sooooo many things from other manufactures,

I do have to admit I like TT improvement of the RGB fans more than the original fans made by Corsair.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> if you guys take notice all the water blocks coming out from TT looks extremely similar to the ones made by EK
> 
> if you don't pay attention, you'd easily mistake them for EK water blocks
> 
> They are copying sooooo many things from other manufactures,
> 
> I do have to admit I like TT improvement of the RGB fans more than the original fans made by Corsair.


THe byksi blocks from china look exactly the same as well lol.

Im sorry but people are getting pissed for no reason and i can see why but why bother. I mean honestly, how many way can there be of designing a waterblock for a single card thats sold by the thousands?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> THe byksi blocks from china look exactly the same as well lol.
> 
> Im sorry but people are getting pissed for no reason and i can see why but why bother. I mean honestly, how many way can there be of designing a waterblock for a single card thats sold by the thousands?


Speaking as a designer, when you've spent a great deal of time to create something, it's pretty disgusting when someone comes along and steals all your hours and hours of work so they can make a quick buck or hundred. They're just stealing designs and adding something to it to get past the copyright laws in most cases (pardon the pun).


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Speaking as a designer, when you've spent a great deal of time to create something, it's pretty disgusting when someone comes along and steals all your hours and hours of work so they can make a quick buck or hundred. They're just stealing designs and adding something to it to get past the copyright laws in most cases (pardon the pun).


Yea i totally get it, ive had a design stolen by me for something i didn't even have time to patent yet. Its frustrating as all hell, but the issue here is, its not like byksi and tt make millions off these, its actually quite the opposite. Over ek and byksi its rpob 90%/10% respectively. I mean sure in China im sure everyone buys byksi but the issue might be more, ekwb doesnt have enough chinese retailers?

Its not like mice where theres HUNDREDS of difference designs and yet some still look TOTALLY identical. You can't tell me a razer mouse doesnt look like an old school microsoft inteli mouse.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Yea i totally get it, ive had a design stolen by me for something i didn't even have time to patent yet. Its frustrating as all hell, but the issue here is, its not like byksi and tt make millions off these, its actually quite the opposite. Over ek and byksi its rpob 90%/10% respectively. I mean sure in China im sure everyone buys byksi but the issue might be more, ekwb doesnt have enough chinese retailers?
> 
> Its not like mice where theres HUNDREDS of difference designs and yet some still look TOTALLY identical. You can't tell me a razer mouse doesnt look like an old school microsoft inteli mouse.


It's a fair point but there are hundreds of designs for cases, TT could design their own without blatantly ripping off the competition however.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> It's a fair point but there are hundreds of designs for cases, TT could design their own without blatantly ripping off the competition however.


Agreed. I know for a fact i wont buy anything Tt anymore. Ill keep the fan controller i have as it works brilliantly but the core x5 i bought is absolute trash. Its massive and has plenty of room for watercooling its just absolute garbage in quality.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> if you guys take notice all the water blocks coming out from TT looks extremely similar to the ones made by EK
> 
> if you don't pay attention, you'd easily mistake them for EK water blocks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> THe byksi blocks from china look exactly the same as well lol.


Seeing as how Tt is rebranding Bykski GPU blocks, that is why.


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> It's a fair point but there are hundreds of designs for cases, TT could design their own without blatantly ripping off the competition however.


I wouldn't call a case that isn't for sale to anyone a competitor.

There are a lot of cases that all look similar...


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Snaporz*
> 
> Question regarding the EK-Res X3 250. I was thinking of using 2 of them side by side in 1 loop just to fill up some space in the case. Now the manual says I can't use port 6 at the top as an inlet... However, I want to. Does that actually hamper performance of the res in some way?
> 
> 
> 
> There is no technical reason why you "can not" you can actually use it.
> but from their design point of view, the top inlet was "dedicated" for re-fills
> 
> but you can always use any of the other ports for the same purpose to re-fill your res, so it's really up to you.
> 
> The other reason is the "air bubbles" when you let water drop from the top hitting the water at the mid / bottom, it causes bubbles, just like when you pee in the toilet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so people say bubbles are not good for you as that makes noise and reduces cooling performance as the bubbles inside the loop takes space away from the water cooling surfaces.
> 
> but for that you can always use the EK insert, or the EK foam (included?) to prevent the bubbling. well technically those 2 are supposed to stop the Tornado inside the cylinder, which also causes bubbles, just like when you flush the toilet, and all that circling water goes down the drain chucking down water and air.
Click to expand...

If the reservoirs are connected in series, the first res would be something you could fill from the top, provided the second is filled from the inlet port. In that way, water coming into the first res would fill up the entirety of the first res, meaning bubbles should not be an issue (possibly some turbulence though?)

The second res would look like any other traditional res, where you use it to capture trapped air bubbles (so not completely full.)

I'm not saying this is a great idea, just that there's no reason why this wouldn't work on paper.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Yea i totally get it, ive had a design stolen by me for something i didn't even have time to patent yet. Its frustrating as all hell, but the issue here is, its not like byksi and tt make millions off these, its actually quite the opposite. Over ek and byksi its rpob 90%/10% respectively. I mean sure in China im sure everyone buys byksi but the issue might be more, ekwb doesnt have enough chinese retailers?
> 
> Its not like mice where theres HUNDREDS of difference designs and yet some still look TOTALLY identical. You can't tell me a razer mouse doesnt look like an old school microsoft inteli mouse.
> 
> 
> 
> It's a fair point but there are hundreds of designs for cases, TT could design their own without blatantly ripping off the competition however.
Click to expand...

There's hundreds of car designs on the market, but most of them end up looking pretty much the same.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> There's hundreds of car designs on the market, but most of them end up looking pretty much the same.


Well thats an issue with the designers usually switching manufacturers, hence why Aston Martin and Jaquars look very similar if you look closely. Also A LOT of european/japanese cars use the same chassis. Think Peugeot/Citroen/Nissan/Opel etc. VW also owns quite a few companies and they're pretty much the same cars haha.

But i can understand EK being pissed off at a stolen design.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Is that Tt or CaseLabs that did this? Just for clarification.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't say I can really fault either since EK chose not to market it, but still if it's Tt, it goes to show that where there is no accountability that's similar to giving the green light to copy at will.
> 
> Kind of hypocritical way to look at it in this instance considering what I said about finding fault. But considering there was demand long ignored I can't be too angry about it. I won't buy one but I'm sure that there are quite a few people who pleaded for them to come to market who will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed DB. Cornfoozed me fer a sec.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah meant to fix that, lol. I do wish that EK would release them to the public but it is what it is, doesn't give ground for Tt to copy the design and launch. They keep doing this since the companies they are copying aren't large enough to tie them up in court over it, which needs to be done or else it will just keep happening. Yes, there are only a few ways to remake a box to hold PC parts but this is, like the others, is a clear copy of EK's case. I wont be selling any of their cases or products through work due to this. I've already push clients towards buying the Fractal cases over Tt's and EK's components of TT's as well.
Click to expand...

Let em keep digging that Class Action hole. Because once that's dug and they've pissed off enough small companies, there's no bouncing back from that.









I for one have made a point of not purchasing ThermalFake products. Whether of their own design or otherwise. Only wish more consumers took the same pride in our community that I do. Cause it's companies like that, who limit the market of fresh designs to choose from to existing big business models.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> There's hundreds of car designs on the market, but most of them end up looking pretty much the same.


I disagree, most of them are owned by the same parent company and get rebranded.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Let em keep digging that Class Action hole. Because once that's dug and they've pissed off enough small companies, there's no bouncing back from that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I for one have made a point of not purchasing ThermalFake products. Whether of their own design or otherwise. Only wish more consumers took the same pride in our community that I do. Cause it's companies like that, who limit the market of fresh designs to choose from to existing big business models.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Which is why I refuse to even sell them to people at work, let alone by them myself. Sure if someone gave me a case of theirs I would do a build in it, but I will not aid this giant in their constant shenanigans.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> That looks similar to what mine did...
> 
> Distilled water + a little antifreeze
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It does not clean off. I went as far as taking a dremal + wire wheel to it. It doesn't do anything to the plating, but doesn't clean up the dark spots.


I see, yea I was warned not to use antifreeze.









You used dremel??







I wouldn't be surprised it's teared up by it lol

I didn't do anything drastic to it yet, just cleaned it out after been in hot boiling water in the tub for an hour. I wiped it clean which it shows in the picture. It seems like the nickel plating has disappeared from those areas. I am still waiting to hear from EK still. They already told me they will get back to me soon.


----------



## AllGamer

So do we know what actually causes the Nickle plating to disintegrate from some of those blocks?

is it due the silver?
due the copper?
due the antifreeze?

some other substances we should not mix with?


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> So do we know what actually causes the Nickle plating to disintegrate from some of those blocks?
> 
> is it due the silver?
> due the copper?
> due the antifreeze?
> 
> some other substances we should not mix with?


I do know that i was warned not to use:

- silver with any nickel waterblocks (meaning silver coil, or anything consist of silver)
- anti-freeze since it's a little harsh on few of metal type
- do not use aluminum with copper, nickel


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> I do know that i was warned not to use:
> 
> - silver with any nickel waterblocks (meaning silver coil, or anything consist of silver)
> - anti-freeze since it's a little harsh on few of metal type
> - do not use aluminum with copper, nickel


that's pretty much what i do recall reading from a few pages back

so, Copper + Nickel is okay, as long as you *Do Not Mix Aluminum* into it,

because I have noticed most EK products are made of Copper base, except for the surface Nickel coating for the CPU / GPU blocks


----------



## Benjiw

Guys, just use anti algae and anti corrosion in your loops with distilled or DI water or premixes already have it in. Don't overcomplicate it.

Don't put silver in your loops if you can help it, don't put antifreeze in your loops if you can help it. K.I.S.S...


----------



## Radnad

First I will never understand why anyone would put car antifreeze in their water cooling loop. I can understand years ago when it was all still new and not much else to use but in today's age there are very specific products made for this reason and absolutely no reason to use antifreeze. Second, I know silver kill coils were the "go to" back when blocks were only copper, and I know a lot of water cooling stickies still mention them, but they do not play nice with nickel, which is the majority of blocks sold now. They really should be removed from any water cooling information. There a lots of good biocides available from lots of good water cooling companies, (and you don't need to buy the fish water stuff either!), so choose your poison from a reputable company that produces water cooling products specifically for computers.

Imo, EK EVO is my "go to" hands down! I've never not once had an issue with it and would it recommend it over anything else.


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> First I will never understand why anyone would put car antifreeze in their water cooling loop. I can understand years ago when it was all still new and not much else to use but in today's age there are very specific products made for this reason and absolutely no reason to use antifreeze. Second, I know silver kill coils were the "go to" back when blocks were only copper, and I know a lot of water cooling stickies still mention them, but they do not play nice with nickel, which is the majority of blocks sold now. They really should be removed from any water cooling information. There a lots of good biocides available from lots of good water cooling companies, (and you don't need to buy the fish water stuff either!), so choose your poison from a reputable company that produces water cooling products specifically for computers.
> 
> Imo, EK EVO is my "go to" hands down! I've never not once had an issue with it and would it recommend it over anything else.


Because ethylene glycol has been used for 20 years in just about every form of liquid cooling, including computers, without issue. It also has anti corrosion agents already in it.

My last watercooled PC used all aluminum parts and ran for 5 years without being dissembled without issue. No corrosion. No growth in anything. No fancy plated metals that over complicate a simple thing.

There are a few biocideds from 'name brand PC cooling' companies that have caused major issues.

Silver coils always had downsides. Even in 2007 it was common knowledge...


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> First I will never understand why anyone would put car antifreeze in their water cooling loop. I can understand years ago when it was all still new and not much else to use but in today's age there are very specific products made for this reason and absolutely no reason to use antifreeze. Second, I know silver kill coils were the "go to" back when blocks were only copper, and I know a lot of water cooling stickies still mention them, but they do not play nice with nickel, which is the majority of blocks sold now. They really should be removed from any water cooling information. There a lots of good biocides available from lots of good water cooling companies, (and you don't need to buy the fish water stuff either!), so choose your poison from a reputable company that produces water cooling products specifically for computers.
> 
> Imo, EK EVO is my "go to" hands down! I've never not once had an issue with it and would it recommend it over anything else.
> 
> 
> 
> Because ethylene glycol has been used for 20 years in just about every form of liquid cooling, including computers, without issue. It also has anti corrosion agents already in it.
> 
> My last watercooled PC used all aluminum parts and ran for 5 years without being dissembled without issue. No corrosion. No growth in anything. No fancy plated metals that over complicate a simple thing.
> 
> There are a few biocideds from 'name brand PC cooling' companies that have caused major issues.
> 
> Silver coils always had downsides. Even in 2007 it was common knowledge...
Click to expand...

I get your point about antifreeze but that's like saying, "_hey we rode horses for 1000's of years so no need to switch to gasoline powered vehicles now_".


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I get your point about antifreeze but that's like saying, "_hey we rode horses for 1000's of years so no need to switch to gasoline powered vehicles now_".


A horss works just as well today as it did a 1000 years ago.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just takes a little longer to get places lol


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> First I will never understand why anyone would put car antifreeze in their water cooling loop. I can understand years ago when it was all still new and not much else to use but in today's age there are very specific products made for this reason and absolutely no reason to use antifreeze. Second, I know silver kill coils were the "go to" back when blocks were only copper, and I know a lot of water cooling stickies still mention them, but they do not play nice with nickel, which is the majority of blocks sold now. They really should be removed from any water cooling information. There a lots of good biocides available from lots of good water cooling companies, (and you don't need to buy the fish water stuff either!), so choose your poison from a reputable company that produces water cooling products specifically for computers.
> 
> Imo, EK EVO is my "go to" hands down! I've never not once had an issue with it and would it recommend it over anything else.
> 
> 
> 
> Because ethylene glycol has been used for 20 years in just about every form of liquid cooling, including computers, without issue. It also has anti corrosion agents already in it.
> 
> My last watercooled PC used all aluminum parts and ran for 5 years without being dissembled without issue. No corrosion. No growth in anything. No fancy plated metals that over complicate a simple thing.
> 
> There are a few biocideds from 'name brand PC cooling' companies that have caused major issues.
> 
> Silver coils always had downsides. Even in 2007 it was common knowledge...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I get your point about antifreeze but that's like saying, "_hey we rode horses for 1000's of years so no need to switch to gasoline powered vehicles now_".
Click to expand...

you are literally comparing apples to grenades


----------



## 1Scotty1

In my loop, which consists of all EK stuff and Nickel blocks I used distilled water and EK Concentrate, and not a single issue after a year of running


----------



## bluej511

Its perfectly fine using coolant if the tubing and blocks are made for it (ie all copper blocks, quite easy to get as well).


----------



## JunkStar

Hi guys and girls

I have noticed that some fine particles are building up in my res and i cant really seem to figure out what it is. All my parts are new EK stuff that has been running for approx 2 months and it wasnt there untill after a month. All parts were cleaned before building the loop with the shake-n-dance method. Im using EKoolant Clear premixed in my loop.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*
> 
> Hi guys and girls
> 
> I have noticed that some fine particles are building up in my res and i cant really seem to figure out what it is. All my parts are new EK stuff that has been running for approx 2 months and it wasnt there untill after a month. All parts were cleaned before building the loop with the shake-n-dance method. Im using EKoolant Clear premixed in my loop.


To me looks like sand or almost copper dust/particles. I have no idea where it comes from but id be worried about that getting into the pump and blocks.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*
> 
> Hi guys and girls
> 
> I have noticed that some fine particles are building up in my res and i cant really seem to figure out what it is. All my parts are new EK stuff that has been running for approx 2 months and it wasnt there untill after a month. All parts were cleaned before building the loop with the shake-n-dance method. Im using EKoolant Clear premixed in my loop.


Looks like copper dust/particles to me but could be wrong, no idea where they come from. Id be worried about that getting into the blocks though.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> First I will never understand why anyone would put car antifreeze in their water cooling loop. I can understand years ago when it was all still new and not much else to use but in today's age there are very specific products made for this reason and absolutely no reason to use antifreeze.


Regular coolant has a bad habit of freezing around 0C as it's primarily water, so if you're using a chiller, cold box or the power of chilly winter (or spring/fall in a number of places) air you're going to have a bad time with things freezing. There still are plenty of applications where such coolants are rather useful, and pretty much necessary for long periods of time or even 24/7 usage, especially if you have to do maintenance on the system.

For regular applications where the tower is on, under, or beside your desk, lan gaming or even most 24/7 applications where your rig won't see anything even remotely near the freezing point of water I can't see why you would use a coolant that doesn't perform well in the temperature ranges we run at, especially with all the extra precautions you need to take with antifreeze.


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Regular coolant has a bad habit of freezing around 0C as it's primarily water, so if you're using a chiller, cold box or the power of chilly winter (or spring/fall in a number of places) air you're going to have a bad time with things freezing. There still are plenty of applications where such coolants are rather useful, and pretty much necessary for long periods of time or even 24/7 usage, especially if you have to do maintenance on the system.
> 
> For regular applications where the tower is on, under, or beside your desk, lan gaming or even most 24/7 applications where your rig won't see anything even remotely near the freezing point of water I can't see why you would use a coolant that doesn't perform well in the temperature ranges we run at, especially with all the extra precautions you need to take with antifreeze.


Extra precautions? Like dilute it down and dont drink it?


----------



## Radnad

@akira749 does EK recommend using antifreeze in your blocks and radiators?


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> @akira749 does EK recommend using antifreeze in your blocks and radiators?


Taken right from EKWB website

Quote:


> Glycol (ethylene and propylene): Corrosion inhibiting additives found in coolants. Also very effective against algae growth. Ethylene gycol by itself is very toxic and is mixed with detox additives in modern coolants


https://ekwb.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/205163032-Liquid-cooling-glossary


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Always use market proven pre-mix coolant, such as EK-Ekoolant. This *propylene glycol based coolant* contains all the necessary *biological inhibitors*, acts as a surfactant and also offers *lubricating properties* which enhance the lifespan of the water pump. Besides this, it also offers *corrosion protection when used in a mixed-metal liquid cooling* loop.


Everything a off the shelf "automotive" coolant is...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Everything a off the shelf "automotive" coolant is...


Let me add, concentrated automotive/rv coolant is (slot of coolants on the shelf are premixes)
If you do use automotive coolabt, which you can, it has to be diluted heavily - just as if you were using a premade PC coolant concentrate
Don't forget automotive coolants are designed to have multiple types of metals in their "loops" from aluminum-copper-steel-iron etc


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Because ethylene glycol has been used for 20 years in just about every form of liquid cooling, including computers, without issue. It also has anti corrosion agents already in it.
> 
> My last watercooled PC used all aluminum parts and ran for 5 years without being dissembled without issue. No corrosion. No growth in anything. No fancy plated metals that over complicate a simple thing.
> 
> There are a few biocideds from 'name brand PC cooling' companies that have caused major issues.
> 
> Silver coils always had downsides. Even in 2007 it was common knowledge...


Computers do not get as hot as car engines nor do they have to sit outside in -5c temps. Using antifreeze in a computer is daft and changes how effective the system is too cool.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Taken right from EKWB website
> https://ekwb.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/205163032-Liquid-cooling-glossary


There is absolutely no need to use antifreeze in a PC cooling system, we have gear to use that is made for our purposes.

I wouldn't call a plumber to build me a brick house...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Regular coolant has a bad habit of freezing around 0C as it's primarily water, so if you're using a chiller, cold box or the power of chilly winter (or spring/fall in a number of places) air you're going to have a bad time with things freezing. There still are plenty of applications where such coolants are rather useful, and pretty much necessary for long periods of time or even 24/7 usage, especially if you have to do maintenance on the system.
> 
> For regular applications where the tower is on, under, or beside your desk, lan gaming or even most 24/7 applications where your rig won't see anything even remotely near the freezing point of water I can't see why you would use a coolant that doesn't perform well in the temperature ranges we run at, especially with all the extra precautions you need to take with antifreeze.


This is only true if you let it sit still for over 30 mins or so for it to form a blockage, once the coolant is moving that changes the entire issue it will also be absorbing heat from components.


----------



## Exilon

Nitpicking over a minor decrease in coolant effectiveness isn't that useful. The few percentages of thermal penalty of a 10-20% glycol solution is easily counteracted by a slightly higher flow rate. Only when you get to higher concentrations does it matter.

What is important is to keep the loop pH above 7, because acidic environments accelerate corrosion of mixed metal loops. Distilled water, biocide (silver or not), and lucky chemistry doesn't work for everyone.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exilon*
> 
> Nitpicking over a minor decrease in coolant effectiveness isn't that useful. The few percentages of thermal penalty of a 10-20% glycol solution is easily counteracted by a slightly higher flow rate. Only when you get to higher concentrations does it matter.
> 
> What is important is to keep the loop pH above 7, because acidic environments accelerate corrosion of mixed metal loops. Distilled water, biocide (silver or not), and lucky chemistry doesn't work for everyone.


Agreed. But at the same time you're just asking for trouble adding stuff you don't need. You need 15-20% antifreeze to water for it to be effective up to -10c at which point you're running the loop and dumping masses of heat into it while benching and overclocking. If you're going to go nuts condensation is going to be more of a risk than your coolant freezing at that point while not knowing what it's doing to the loop.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exilon*
> 
> What is important is to keep the loop pH above 7, because acidic environments accelerate corrosion of mixed metal loops. Distilled water, biocide (silver or not), and lucky chemistry doesn't work for everyone.


Does it exist? a sensor to monitor the pH balance in the water?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Does it exist? a sensor to monitor the pH balance in the water?




Or


----------



## Exilon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Agreed. But at the same time you're just asking for trouble adding stuff you don't need. You need 15-20% antifreeze to water for it to be effective up to -10c at which point you're running the loop and dumping masses of heat into it while benching and overclocking. If you're going to go nuts condensation is going to be more of a risk than your coolant freezing at that point while not knowing what it's doing to the loop.


No disagreement there. I'm not a fan of running diluted anti-freeze as they're usually formulated to run 50/50. Running at 10-20% with those formulations means pH buffers and inhibitors are too diluted to function properly, and the user is just asking for trouble.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exilon*
> 
> No disagreement there. I'm not a fan of running diluted anti-freeze as they're usually formulated to run 50/50. Running at 10-20% with those formulations means pH buffers and inhibitors are too diluted to function properly, and the user is just asking for trouble.


Totally agree again.


----------



## whitrzac

So do you guys have any experience or proof to back this up, or are you just theorizing what has worked for 10+ years no longer works?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> So do you guys have any experience or proof to back this up, or are you just theorizing what has worked for 10+ years no longer works?


I mean does my experience with motorcycle and car engines count? Or is that all redundant because it isn't a car engine we are talking about?

SOURCE: Ex-motorcycle mechanic and trained at college for motor vehicle repair.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> So do you guys have any experience or proof to back this up, or are you just theorizing what has worked for 10+ years no longer works?


No one said it didn't work, it's just why run coolant meant for a completely different application rather than what's made specifically for water cooling PCs. That's all I'm saying, grenades and all, lol.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> No one said it didn't work, it's just why run coolant meant for a completely different application rather than what's made specifically for water cooling PCs. That's all I'm saying, grenades and all, lol.


Some people like to over complicate simple things because they believe the most complex way of doing it will yield better results when in fact it will just do the opposite.


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Some people like to over complicate simple things because they believe the most complex way of doing it will yield better results when in fact it will just do the opposite.


Im not sure how much simpler than a bottle of 50/50 uv green coolant you can get.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Im not sure how much simpler than a bottle of 50/50 uv green coolant you can get.


It's meant for small pumps in a tiny loop that doesn't produce anywhere near as much heat or is it going to be in extreme sub zero temps to warrant 50% mix. Water with a drop of anti algae like PT nuke is more than enough for the job without making the pump work as hard for no gain.

a lot has changed in watercooling recently, no one needs to use antifreeze anymore.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Extra precautions? Like dilute it down and dont drink it?


One has to keep in mind that it's toxic to humans, and pretty much lethal to pets even in small exposure rates. On top of that, you have to dispose of it properly, and it isn't exactly biodegradable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> This is only true if you let it sit still for over 30 mins or so for it to form a blockage, once the coolant is moving that changes the entire issue it will also be absorbing heat from components.


Either way, I wouldn't want to take those kinds of risks myself, and I wouldn't trust coolant that isn't designed for subzero uses in any environment that regularly sits below 0C simply because one cannot guarantee that there will always be enough flow to prevent the formation of ice crystals, and eventually blocks of ice. Doubly so if we're talking a proper winter like -20C and sticking either just the radiator or most of the rig (minus hard drives) outside/into a cold box.

Even benchers let things settle for a minute or two in between runs to allow the card to be as cold as possible, so while flow could prevent the formation of ice it just takes that one slight dead spot for ice to start forming and then it can rapidly cascade from there with damaging results.


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> One has to keep in mind that it's toxic to humans, and pretty much lethal to pets even in small exposure rates. On top of that, you have to dispose of it properly, and it isn't exactly biodegradable.


If there are no local recyclers, you dump it down the toilet. Wastewater treatment plants are made to handle small amounts of it without issues.

DO NOT dump it down the drain if you have a septic system.

I just looked up the MSDS report for my XSPC ECX concentrate. Main ingredient 10-100%? Propylene glycol....
EK coolant, Propylene glycol....


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> If there are no local recyclers, you dump it down the toilet. Wastewater treatment plants are made to handle small amounts of it without issues.
> 
> DO NOT dump it down the drain if you have a septic system.
> 
> I just looked up the MSDS report for my XSPC ECX concentrate. Main ingredient 10-100%? Propylene glycol....
> EK coolant, Propylene glycol....


Ive beening running propylene glycol for about 4 years without issue... system runs about 5-8C delta. Its non toxic, generally regarded as safe.. vape guys inhale it. lol.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not quite what I was thinking, but Thanks









I was thinking more like something along the lines of the inline Flow Meter and inline Temp Sensors, so that we can monitor it comfortably from the Software

and if it goes over a certain range, then it sends out an alert


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> If there are no local recyclers, you dump it down the toilet. Wastewater treatment plants are made to handle small amounts of it without issues.
> 
> DO NOT dump it down the drain if you have a septic system.
> 
> I just looked up the MSDS report for my XSPC ECX concentrate. Main ingredient 10-100%? Propylene glycol....
> EK coolant, Propylene glycol....


Please don't dump toxic stuff into the toilets for the love of god if you're going to tell people it's fine to use something at least dispose of it correctly.


----------



## AllGamer

@akira749 or anyone that might know.

Does this D5 pump + plexi top has any 3mm / 5mm LED mounts?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> @akira749 or anyone that might know.
> 
> Does this D5 pump + plexi top has any 3mm / 5mm LED mounts?


No it doesn't but like all things you can modify it to take small LEDs just don't drill too far.


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Please don't dump toxic stuff into the toilets for the love of god if you're going to tell people it's fine to use something at least dispose of it correctly.


That is the way you dispose of small amounts of antifreeze/etholine glycol. Maybe you should do a little research...


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> No it doesn't but like all things you can modify it to take small LEDs just don't drill too far.


Just what I imagined.
yeah, I was just trying to figure out how to light it up nicely.

it's not a problem, as I was planning to use the in-line LEDs G1/4 on a T fitting,
that will take care of the lighting,
just counting how many of those I'll need for the full build.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> That is the way you dispose of small amounts of antifreeze/etholine glycol. Maybe you should do a little research...


Here in the UK we get fined for doing such a thing as our laws on protecting the environment is more strict. I'd never dump toxins found in antifreeze down the toilet as we have the facilities all over the UK where they will deal with it in the correct manner for free.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Just what I imagined.
> yeah, I was just trying to figure out how to light it up nicely.
> 
> it's not a problem, as I was planning to use the in-line LEDs G1/4 on a T fitting,
> that will take care of the lighting,
> just counting how many of those I'll need for the full build.


Not sure I follow, usually 2 LEDs will do just fine hooked up to a 3pin header will light that thing up something lovely.


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Here in the UK we get fined for doing such a thing as our laws on protecting the environment is more strict. I'd never dump toxins found in antifreeze down the toilet as we have the facilities all over the UK where they will deal with it in the correct manner for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure I follow, usually 2 LEDs will do just fine hooked up to a 3pin header will light that thing up something lovely.


Our wastewater gets treated and the crap removed before it's dumped into the nearby river.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Our wastewater gets treated and the crap removed before it's dumped into the nearby river.


"It won't make a difference if I do it, 2 litres of antifreeze will be treated at the plant" said Bill to his neighbour, "but, Bill, what if everyone does the same and that 2 litres ends up being a lot more?:









We only have one earth, dispose of your waste in the correct manner please like a responsible human being. Call me a social justice warrior all you want but you're telling people to put antifreeze in their systems and now dump it down the toilet? Fair enough if it's bio degradable etc but half the time it isn't and it's toxic so do the right thing and dispose of it correctly.


----------



## Ceadderman

Entertaining coversation Benji. Totally agree with everything you said.

I have two arguments against using AntiFreeze.

1st is Rather simple...

What is the definition of those two words? Anti is "To halt or stop, or "Against". Yeah there are more definitions for that one word but I will use the base definition of "Stop"

Freeze is even simpler to define. Since water Freezes @ 0c or 32F. and since NO computer system short of one going for an LN2 record or not running a Water Chiller will reach 0c w/o assistance there is zero reason to use such things. Especially when Biocide, AntiCorrosives and Distilled are cheaper than the cheapest AF on the market.

2nd is this and I love when this rebuttal comes up..." Why is something that has been used since the beginning of Watercooling not good enough now?", well maybe because back when Water Cooling first started out, most every component had some form of aluminum in it. Radiator? Check. CPU blocks? Check. Chipset blocks? Check. And rubber tubing and small pond pumps running coolant through aluminum barbs. There was no reason not to run the stuff, since most everything used came from a small car or motorcycle. But now we're so far along from concept and cobbling cooling loops together from junk/salvage yards. People run dyes, they run clear tubing, they run all sorts of things that have evolved over the years. Remember when a cooling block didn't have channels in them?

Antiquated coolant belongs with antiquated hardware.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Entertaining coversation Benji. Totally agree with everything you said.
> 
> I have two arguments against using AntiFreeze.
> 
> 1st is Rather simple...
> 
> What is the definition of those two words? Anti is "To halt or stop, or "Against". Yeah there are more definitions for that one word but I will use the base definition of "Stop"
> 
> Freeze is even simpler to define. Since water Freezes @ 0c or 32F. and since NO computer system short of one going for an LN2 record or not running a Water Chiller will reach 0c w/o assistance there is zero reason to use such things. Especially when Biocide, AntiCorrosives and Distilled are cheaper than the cheapest AF on the market.
> 
> 2nd is this and I love when this rebuttal comes up..." Why is something that has been used since the beginning of Watercooling not good enough now?", well maybe because back when Water Cooling first started out, most every component had some form of aluminum in it. Radiator? Check. CPU blocks? Check. Chipset blocks? Check. And rubber tubing and small pond pumps running coolant through aluminum barbs. There was no reason not to run the stuff, since most everything used came from a small car or motorcycle. But now we're so far along from concept and cobbling cooling loops together from junk/salvage yards. People run dyes, they run clear tubing, they run all sorts of things that have evolved over the years. Remember when a cooling block didn't have channels in them?
> 
> Antiquated coolant belongs with antiquated hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Found this with a simple google, seems my moral compas is alright and I don't need it checking.
Quote:


> Antifreeze dumped down the toilet will enter the sewage treatment system, as opposed to the stormwater system if you dump it into a storm drain. Once the antifreeze enters into the sewage treatment plant it will raise the BOD (biochemical oxygen demand) of the influent, causing problems in the plant. This can cause the STP to shut down or be unable to process sewage. The source of the high BOD can be traced by checking the various access points in the sewage system, such as manholes and lift stations, although this is probably not probable given a single incident.


Quote:


> I understand where your question came from, because it use to actually say, right on the side of the antifreeze jugs, that you should pour old antifreeze down the toilet. So I did some research and it appears that there is no specific EPA law regarding it, but it is certainly a bad idea. Check with your local auto parts store and/or municipal recycling centers to find a safe way to get rid of it.


Quote:


> Propylene glycol is known to exert high levels of biochemical oxygen demand (BOD) during degradation in surface waters. This process can adversely affect aquatic life by consuming oxygen needed by aquatic organisms for survival. Large quantities of dissolved oxygen (DO) in the water column are consumed when microbial populations decompose propylene glycol.[49]:2-23
> 
> Sufficient dissolved oxygen levels in surface waters are critical for the survival of fish, macroinvertebrates, and other aquatic organisms. If oxygen concentrations drop below a minimum level, organisms emigrate, if able and possible, to areas with higher oxygen levels or eventually die. This effect can drastically reduce the amount of usable aquatic habitat. Reductions in DO levels can reduce or eliminate bottom feeder populations, create conditions that favor a change in a community's species profile, or alter critical food-web interactions.[49]:2-30


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> "It won't make a difference if I do it, 2 litres of antifreeze will be treated at the plant" said Bill to his neighbour, "but, Bill, what if everyone does the same and that 2 litres ends up being a lot more?:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We only have one earth, dispose of your waste in the correct manner please like a responsible human being. Call me a social justice warrior all you want but you're telling people to put antifreeze in their systems and now dump it down the toilet? Fair enough if it's bio degradable etc but half the time it isn't and it's toxic so do the right thing and dispose of it correctly.


How about, you do your own research rather than being a parrot. Most local regulations say to dump antifreeze down the sewer if no local recycling is available.


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Entertaining coversation Benji. Totally agree with everything you said.
> 
> I have two arguments against using AntiFreeze.
> 
> 1st is Rather simple...
> 
> What is the definition of those two words? Anti is "To halt or stop, or "Against". Yeah there are more definitions for that one word but I will use the base definition of "Stop"
> 
> Freeze is even simpler to define. Since water Freezes @ 0c or 32F. and since NO computer system short of one going for an LN2 record or not running a Water Chiller will reach 0c w/o assistance there is zero reason to use such things. Especially when Biocide, AntiCorrosives and Distilled are cheaper than the cheapest AF on the market.
> 
> 2nd is this and I love when this rebuttal comes up..." Why is something that has been used since the beginning of Watercooling not good enough now?", well maybe because back when Water Cooling first started out, most every component had some form of aluminum in it. Radiator? Check. CPU blocks? Check. Chipset blocks? Check. And rubber tubing and small pond pumps running coolant through aluminum barbs. There was no reason not to run the stuff, since most everything used came from a small car or motorcycle. But now we're so far along from concept and cobbling cooling loops together from junk/salvage yards. People run dyes, they run clear tubing, they run all sorts of things that have evolved over the years. Remember when a cooling block didn't have channels in them?
> 
> Antiquated coolant belongs with antiquated hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What is EK's coolant made of?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> How about, you do your own research rather than being a parrot. Most local regulations say to dump antifreeze down the sewer if no local recycling is available.


Please read my last post. I did my research and guess what? It's not a good idea.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> What is EK's coolant made of?


https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046999658.pdf
Quote:


> SECTION 13. DISPOSAL CONSIDERATIONS
> 13.1. Waste treatment methods
> 13.1.1. Product / Packaging disposal
> Waste chemical
> Disposal must be made according to official regulations: to leave it to authorized collector/remover/transformer of hazardous
> waste.


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046999658.pdf


Official regulation for the state of WI:
Quote:


> You must have permission from the wastewater treatment plant before discharging used antifreeze to the sanitary sewer


Did you look what the primary component of EK's coolant is?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Entertaining coversation Benji. Totally agree with everything you said.
> 
> I have two arguments against using AntiFreeze.
> 
> 1st is Rather simple...
> 
> What is the definition of those two words? Anti is "To halt or stop, or "Against". Yeah there are more definitions for that one word but I will use the base definition of "Stop"
> 
> Freeze is even simpler to define. Since water Freezes @ 0c or 32F. and since NO computer system short of one going for an LN2 record or not running a Water Chiller will reach 0c w/o assistance there is zero reason to use such things. Especially when Biocide, AntiCorrosives and Distilled are cheaper than the cheapest AF on the market.
> 
> 2nd is this and I love when this rebuttal comes up..." Why is something that has been used since the beginning of Watercooling not good enough now?", well maybe because back when Water Cooling first started out, most every component had some form of aluminum in it. Radiator? Check. CPU blocks? Check. Chipset blocks? Check. And rubber tubing and small pond pumps running coolant through aluminum barbs. There was no reason not to run the stuff, since most everything used came from a small car or motorcycle. But now we're so far along from concept and cobbling cooling loops together from junk/salvage yards. People run dyes, they run clear tubing, they run all sorts of things that have evolved over the years. Remember when a cooling block didn't have channels in them?
> 
> Antiquated coolant belongs with antiquated hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is EK's coolant made of?
Click to expand...

EK's coolant is made by Mayhem's and last I heard Mayhem's doesn't use AntiFreeze. If that's what you're getting at.









ThermalFake on the other hand used AntiFreeze in their Big Water systems.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Official regulation for the state of WI:
> Did you look what the primary component of EK's coolant is?


Educate me?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glycerol in their pastel


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> EK's coolant is made by Mayhem's and last I heard Mayhem's doesn't use AntiFreeze. If that's what you're getting at.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ThermalFake on the other hand used AntiFreeze in their Big Water systems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Post the MSDs sheet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Educate me?
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glycerol in their pastel


Taken *directly* from the MSDs sheet you posted for EK-Ekoolant EVO (premix 1L)

ethanediol 8-9%
Common name: Ethylene glycol
http://webbook.nist.gov/cgi/cbook.cgi?ID=107-21-1

And the funny part
From EK's MSDs
Quote:


> According to the regulation, the chemical is not classified as dangerous. Safety data sheet available for professional user on
> request.


From the main ingrediant's MSDs
Quote:


> Acute toxicity (Oral) Category 4 H302 Harmful if swallowed.
> Specific target organ
> toxicity - repeated
> exposure (Oral)
> 
> Category 2 H373 May cause damage to organs through
> prolonged or repeated exposure if
> swallowed


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwiGtoeOz-rOAhUJ42MKHVg4AM0QFggeMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.meglobal.biz%2Fassets%2FMEG%2520PE%2520Grade%2520MSDS%2520UK%2520-%2520English%2520Version.pdf&usg=AFQjCNGgA4vc00xXdxHhMH4G8UC7tfBGRA&sig2=-md-zc7gsSY55xlKB2efZg


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Post the MSDs sheet.
> Taken *directly* from the MSDs sheet you posted for EK-Ekoolant EVO (premix 1L)
> 
> ethanediol 8-9%
> Common name: Ethylene glycol
> http://webbook.nist.gov/cgi/cbook.cgi?ID=107-21-1
> 
> And the funny part


This is the funny part, it doesn't say its safe to dispose of it down a drain or toilet anywhere in that document at all?


----------



## whitrzac

Your completely missing the elephant in the room.

EK's coolant is antifreeze, it even uses the amazingly toxic Ethylene glycol that you've been tolling about rather than the less toxic propylene glycol the other brands use. .


----------



## Radnad

I just ordered 6 liters of EK EVO Clear, woohoo, can't wait to try it in my Mopar!!

/sarcoff


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Your completely missing the elephant in the room.
> 
> EK's coolant is antifreeze, it even uses the amazingly toxic Ethylene glycol that you've been tolling about rather than the less toxic propylene glycol the other brands use. .


But, it does say to dispose of it correctly? Not by dumping it into the environment and our drinking sources? I don't understand why you can't understand this?


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> But, it does say to dispose of it correctly? Not by dumping it into the environment and our drinking sources? I don't understand why you can't understand this?


It does say to dispose of it properly; and properly, according to the national, state, and local regulations, say to dump small amounts into the sewer with approval from the local wastewater treatment plant.

Yes, when I lived in town I actually called to verify that it wasn't a myth. I was told it had to be clean(no oil/etc in it) and to keep it to a minimum. No exact amount was given.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> It does say to dispose of it properly; and properly, according to the national, state, and local regulations, say to dump small amounts into the sewer with approval from the local wastewater treatment plant.
> 
> Yes, when I lived in town I actually called to verify that it wasn't a myth. I was told it had to be clean(no oil/etc in it) and to keep it to a minimum. No exact amount was given.


The correct way is to recycle it here in England, not to dump it into our environment. And how much antifreeze is in the EK coolant compared to your 50/50?

I wan't to know so please educate me on the matter.


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> The correct way is to recycle it here in England, not to dump it into our environment. And how much antifreeze is in the EK coolant compared to your 50/50?
> 
> I wan't to know so please educate me on the matter.


About 12.5% Filled the res once, let it pump. Filled the res 3 more times with distilled water.

They don't have wastewater treatment plants where you are? That's really nasty... Didn't someone in europe invent the toilet?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> About 12.5% Filled the res once, let it pump. Filled the res 3 more times with distilled water.
> 
> They don't have wastewater treatment plants where you are? That's really nasty... Didn't someone in europe invent the toilet?


We have waste management, we have a lot of recycling points too where we can dispose of harmful chemicals such as antifreeze and oil etc that are found in cars and motorcycles. I fear for the future of our planet when challenged to understand what you're doing is harmful and causes issues with the treatment of the very essential things that keeps us as humans alive you simply can't see past your own nose because Jim down the plant said it's "Okay" without giving you numbers to go off.

One person doing something might be fine, what do I know? But then once more and more people start doing it... well that's a whole different story really isn't it.

Isn't the water in America really unsafe to drink in most places? Wasn't there a scandal over people cheating the tests to pass it off that it was safe to drink?

https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2016/jun/28/lead-drinking-water-level-nrdc-report-flint-crisis

And you're sat there, Go on, it's safe! It's only a little percentage of something that can kill!









https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2016/jun/02/lead-water-testing-cheats-chicago-boston-philadelphia


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> We have waste management, we have a lot of recycling points too where we can dispose of harmful chemicals such as antifreeze and oil etc that are found in cars and motorcycles. I fear for the future of our planet when challenged to understand what you're doing is harmful and causes issues with the treatment of the very essential things that keeps us as humans alive you simply can't see past your own nose because Jim down the plant said it's "Okay" without giving you numbers to go off.
> 
> One person doing something might be fine, what do I know? But then once more and more people start doing it... well that's a whole different story really isn't it.
> 
> Isn't the water in America really unsafe to drink in most places? Wasn't there a scandal over people cheating the tests to pass it off that it was safe to drink?
> 
> https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2016/jun/28/lead-drinking-water-level-nrdc-report-flint-crisis
> 
> And you're sat there, Go on, it's safe! It's only a little percentage of something that can kill!


That's why there are recycling centers for larger amounts. Regulations state that small amounts can be processed by the wastewater treatment plant with approval. Larger amounts get recycled.

This isn't jimbob down at the crap plant. It's the US and state government.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> That's why there are recycling centers for larger amounts. Regulations state that small amounts can be processed by the wastewater treatment plant with approval. Larger amounts get recycled.
> 
> This isn't jimbob down at the crap plant. It's the US and state government.


Cos they don't lie or mess anything up at all... lol keep on keeping on, don't breed though and if you already have, tell em to thank you for the poison.


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Cos they don't lie or mess anything up at all... lol keep on keeping on, don't breed though and if you already have, tell em to thank you for the poison.


And your government is any better?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> And your government is any better?


Its against TOS to talk about politics but I don't trust anyone who tells me to put toxins in the toilet because it'll be okay nor do I trust anyone wearing a suit.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> One has to keep in mind that it's toxic to humans, and pretty much lethal to pets even in small exposure rates. On top of that, you have to dispose of it properly, and it isn't exactly biodegradable.
> 
> Either way, I wouldn't want to take those kinds of risks myself, and I wouldn't trust coolant that isn't designed for subzero uses in any environment that regularly sits below 0C simply because one cannot guarantee that there will always be enough flow to prevent the formation of ice crystals, and eventually blocks of ice. *Doubly so if we're talking a proper winter like -20C and sticking either just the radiator or most of the rig (minus hard drives) outside/into a cold box.*
> 
> Even benchers let things settle for a minute or two in between runs to allow the card to be as cold as possible, so while flow could prevent the formation of ice it just takes that one slight dead spot for ice to start forming and then it can rapidly cascade from there with damaging results.











Sure, a "proper" winter, you live in Edmonton, lol!








Disclaimer: I was born in Calgary, but got the hell out of there after a few years, lol!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> If there are no local recyclers, you dump it down the toilet. Wastewater treatment plants are made to handle small amounts of it without issues.
> 
> DO NOT dump it down the drain if you have a septic system.
> 
> I just looked up the MSDS report for my XSPC ECX concentrate. Main ingredient 10-100%? Propylene glycol....
> EK coolant, Propylene glycol....
> 
> Ive beening running propylene glycol for about 4 years without issue... system runs about 5-8C delta. Its non toxic, generally regarded as safe.. *vape guys inhale it. lol.*


Good point, lol!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure, a "proper" winter, you live in Edmonton, lol!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Disclaimer: I was born in Calgary, but got the hell out of there after a few years, lol!
> Good point, lol!


Vape guys might inhale it, because it doesn't such oxygen out of the water we need in our lungs*. How ever, chemicals react differently for us than they do for other things.
Quote:


> Propylene glycol is known to exert high levels of biochemical oxygen demand (BOD) during degradation in surface waters. This process can adversely affect aquatic life by consuming oxygen needed by aquatic organisms for survival.


*Sarcasm....


----------



## DrFreeman35

This is getting funny..... I work for a wastewater treatment facility. Nowhere should anything like this be dumped down the toilet, but just like tampons and baby wipes..... It happens anyways. It's a tired argument, and people will do what they please, especially when nobody is watching. I've been working in this industry for 7 years, and have seen my fair share of stuff "flushed down the toilet".


----------



## AllGamer

while in the topic of flushing things down the toilet...

So we here in the North side of the planet Earth... water goes down Clock wise or counter Clock wise?

Just trying to line up my reservoir to display the natural water flow flushing down the loop


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure, a "proper" winter, you live in Edmonton, lol!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Disclaimer: I was born in Calgary, but got the hell out of there after a few years, lol!
> Good point, lol!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Vape guys might inhale it, because it doesn't such oxygen out of the water we need in our lungs*. How ever, chemicals react differently for us than they do for other things.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Propylene glycol is known to exert high levels of biochemical oxygen demand (BOD) during degradation in surface waters. This process can adversely affect aquatic life by consuming oxygen needed by aquatic organisms for survival.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *Sarcasm....
Click to expand...

Yeah, I vape occasionally, and it does have some PG in it, mostly Vegetable Glycerine though.
It's weird how that doesn't matter to me, as much as what I put in my cooling system, lol!


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> We have waste management, we have a lot of recycling points too where we can dispose of harmful chemicals such as antifreeze and oil etc that are found in cars and motorcycles. I fear for the future of our planet when challenged to understand what you're doing is harmful and causes issues with the treatment of the very essential things that keeps us as humans alive you simply can't see past your own nose because Jim down the plant said it's "Okay" without giving you numbers to go off.
> 
> One person doing something might be fine, what do I know? But then once more and more people start doing it... well that's a whole different story really isn't it.
> 
> Isn't the water in America really unsafe to drink in most places? Wasn't there a scandal over people cheating the tests to pass it off that it was safe to drink?
> 
> https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2016/jun/28/lead-drinking-water-level-nrdc-report-flint-crisis
> 
> And you're sat there, Go on, it's safe! It's only a little percentage of something that can kill!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2016/jun/02/lead-water-testing-cheats-chicago-boston-philadelphia


to be fair you have a limit geographical area being on an island and much like japan, _the population's survival depends on higher sanitary standards._ and btw, nice of you to link two articles that had more to do with corruption and neglect about lead testing in drinking water that about dumping anti freeze down the toilet. _i live an hour away from flint._

but don't worry about mother earth, she will take care of herself. as a biology prof once mentioned (20 odd years ago), "isn't it odd how more diseases are affecting mankind as we deforest the rain forest? doesn't that seem similar to an organism that is being attacked by a virus?"

at the end of the day:

earth 1
human race 0


----------



## kgtuning

How fast the topic changes once its shown EK and Mayhem use PG or EG in some their products. Can we get back on topic?.. here's a distraction


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> How fast the topic changes once its shown EK and Mayhem use PG or EG in some their products. Can we get back on topic?.. here's a distraction


Amen to that


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure, a "proper" winter, you live in Edmonton, lol!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Disclaimer: I was born in Calgary, but got the hell out of there after a few years, lol!
> Good point, lol!


I cringe when people say 20C is cold. Silly Texans, drop the temp to -20C and I might have switched to my thicker jacket from my hoodie. To be fair though, it is a tmax hoodie.

But yeah, winter is good out here ^_^


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I cringe when people say 20C is cold. Silly Texans, drop the temp to -20C and I might have switched to my thicker jacket from my hoodie. To be fair though, it is a tmax hoodie.
> 
> But yeah, winter is good out here ^_^


My best winter was on PEI... That was something else. I'm happy with New England weather.


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I cringe when people say 20C is cold. Silly Texans, drop the temp to -20C and I might have switched to my thicker jacket from my hoodie. To be fair though, it is a tmax hoodie.
> 
> But yeah, winter is good out here ^_^


It's 18C in my apartment at all times, and in the winter I don't run a heater, so it can drop to 10C. Texan here lol, we don't really know what cold is. Although we do get -10 to -15C, sometimes lower depending on the weather moving in from the north.


----------



## akira749

New EK Full-Cover water blocks for multiple PALIT and Gainward graphics cards


----------



## JunkStar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> New EK Full-Cover water blocks for multiple PALIT and Gainward graphics cards


Booo! Bring the EVGA 1080 FTW block to the market instead


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*
> 
> Booo! Bring the EVGA 1080 FTW block to the market instead


2 weeks


----------



## JunkStar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 2 weeks


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> to be fair you have a limit geographical area being on an island and much like japan, _the population's survival depends on higher sanitary standards._ and btw, nice of you to link two articles that had more to do with corruption and neglect about lead testing in drinking water that about dumping anti freeze down the toilet. _i live an hour away from flint._
> 
> but don't worry about mother earth, she will take care of herself. as a biology prof once mentioned (20 odd years ago), "isn't it odd how more diseases are affecting mankind as we deforest the rain forest? doesn't that seem similar to an organism that is being attacked by a virus?"
> 
> at the end of the day:
> 
> earth 1
> human race 0


I've nothing more to say on the topic other than mother earth isn't winning as it's covered in a parasite that's slowly killing it.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> to be fair you have a limit geographical area being on an island and much like japan, _the population's survival depends on higher sanitary standards._ and btw, nice of you to link two articles that had more to do with corruption and neglect about lead testing in drinking water that about dumping anti freeze down the toilet. _i live an hour away from flint._
> 
> but don't worry about mother earth, she will take care of herself. as a biology prof once mentioned (20 odd years ago), "isn't it odd how more diseases are affecting mankind as we deforest the rain forest? doesn't that seem similar to an organism that is being attacked by a virus?"
> 
> at the end of the day:
> 
> earth 1
> human race 0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've nothing more to say on the topic other than mother earth isn't winning as it's covered in a parasite that's slowly killing it.
Click to expand...

i'd like to leave it also but have to point out: it's extremely arrogant for mankind to think it can harm a planet that's been in existence for billions of years and survived much larger catastrophes. but not saying it is license to do what we want; i do agree with your point of taking care of our home (before we get evicted).


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i'd like to leave it also but have to point out: it's extremely arrogant for mankind to think it can harm a planet that's been in existence for billions of years and survived much larger catastrophes. but not saying it is license to do what we want; i do agree with your point of taking care of our home (before we get evicted).


The damage is being done as we speak, animals are becoming extinct, marine wildlife is being seriously overfished and killed with waste etc etc etc. It is worrying because when I do eventually have kids I'd love for them to see nature etc with their own eyes vs old pictures on the internet. I never used to give a rats when I was younger but the more interested I become in wildlife the more shocked I get to see most of the stuff is being killed off.

It's ignorant to think that we aren't harming it tbh.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i'd like to leave it also but have to point out: it's extremely arrogant for mankind to think it can harm a planet that's been in existence for billions of years and survived much larger catastrophes. but not saying it is license to do what we want; i do agree with your point of taking care of our home (before we get evicted).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The damage is being done as we speak, animals are becoming extinct, marine wildlife is being seriously overfished and killed with waste etc etc etc. It is worrying because when I do eventually have kids I'd love for them to see nature etc with their own eyes vs old pictures on the internet. I never used to give a rats when I was younger but the more interested I become in wildlife the more shocked I get to see most of the stuff is being killed off.
> 
> It's ignorant to think that we aren't harming it tbh.
Click to expand...

killing off or extinct wildlife is not the same . . and you forgot about the dinosaurs. oh wait, can't blame humans for that now, can you?

which brings the point of ecosystems changing, it's called evolution and it doesn't also go the way we (or what would be the dominate species at the time) would like it to go. read some books on the history of the planet or watch a few dozen documentaries on you tube even (but none have it all correct as we find out more every day).

and please don't use the "ignorance card." go find out how it was an extraordinary course of events that brought the human race into existence in the first place. then tell me how we control our destiny let alone a planet's.

until then, take care.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> killing off or extinct wildlife is not the same . . and you forgot about the dinosaurs. oh wait, can't blame humans for that now, can you?
> 
> which brings the point of ecosystems changing, it's called evolution and it doesn't also go the way we (or what would be the dominate species at the time) would like it to go. read some books on the history of the planet or watch a few dozen documentaries on you tube even (but none have it all correct as we find out more every day).
> 
> and please don't use the "ignorance card." go find out how it was an extraordinary course of events that brought the human race into existence in the first place. then tell me how we control our destiny let alone a planet's.
> 
> until then, take care.


You used that card first, dinosaurs? Really? Okay take care.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Jesus can you guys get a room or your own thread?? FFS... this is the EK Club, not "discuss dumping crap down the toilet" club.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> killing off or extinct wildlife is not the same . . and you forgot about the dinosaurs. oh wait, can't blame humans for that now, can you?
> 
> which brings the point of ecosystems changing, it's called evolution and it doesn't also go the way we (or what would be the dominate species at the time) would like it to go. read some books on the history of the planet or watch a few dozen documentaries on you tube even (but none have it all correct as we find out more every day).
> 
> and please don't use the "ignorance card." go find out how it was an extraordinary course of events that brought the human race into existence in the first place. then tell me how we control our destiny let alone a planet's.
> 
> until then, take care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You used that card first, dinosaurs? Really? Okay take care.
Click to expand...

i am pretty sure there is a difference between arrogance and ignorance though i understand a bit of cause and effect or a positive correlation between the two. and sorry about the dinosaur reference . . but "it was there." i could still be a bit cranky for having to wait an hour in the exam room for the doctor to show up - in a very uncomfortable chair i might add.









BUT to switch up and back to a topic for the thread:

looking at getting a EK 90° compression fitting and got a silly question, how to insure it points the way i want the tube to go?

coming out of my VGA block to my res. the tube has a small kink in it now.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> killing off or extinct wildlife is not the same . . and you forgot about the dinosaurs. oh wait, can't blame humans for that now, can you?
> 
> which brings the point of ecosystems changing, it's called evolution and it doesn't also go the way we (or what would be the dominate species at the time) would like it to go. read some books on the history of the planet or watch a few dozen documentaries on you tube even (but none have it all correct as we find out more every day).
> 
> and please don't use the "ignorance card." go find out how it was an extraordinary course of events that brought the human race into existence in the first place. then tell me how we control our destiny let alone a planet's.
> 
> until then, take care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You used that card first, dinosaurs? Really? Okay take care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i am pretty sure there is a difference between arrogance and ignorance though i understand a bit of cause and effect or a positive correlation between the two. and sorry about the dinosaur reference . . but "it was there." i could still be a bit cranky for having to wait an hour in the exam room for the doctor to show up - in a very uncomfortable chair i might add.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT to switch up and back to a topic for the thread:
> 
> looking at getting a EK 90° compression fitting and got a silly question, how to insure it points the way i want the tube to go?
> 
> coming out of my VGA block to my res. the tube has a small kink in it now.
Click to expand...

Take out your jab at Benjiw please. No reason to CONTINUE the useless argument.

The EK 90* fittings rotate to be alined in any direction after being screwed in.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Take out your jab at Benjiw please. No reason to CONTINUE the useless argument.
> 
> The EK 90* fittings rotate to be alined in any direction after being screwed in.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


first, THANKS!

no jab intended or that i see (though you can PM it to me) but why edit it out when you quote it?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Jesus can you guys get a room or your own thread?? FFS... this is the EK Club, not "discuss dumping crap down the toilet" club.


Maybe, but when a member is actively giving out poor advice it needs to be questioned and discussed.


----------



## AllGamer

My question got totally ignored it in the previous page.

I was asking if the water goes down clock wise or counter clock wise if we are in the Northern Hemisphere

I´m trying to setup a natural tornado in a 250mm EK res, and I need to figure out which side the water should come in from to avoid disrupting the natural flow of the water draining

If i drop the water from the top center it will cause too much tempest and disrupt the event horizon, If i input water from the wrong side it will cause an artificial spin to the opposite to the natural flow.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*
> 
> Booo! Bring the EVGA 1080 FTW block to the market instead


Or the Classified blocks


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Maybe, but when a member is actively giving out poor advice it needs to be questioned and discussed.


Following government regulations for disposing hazardous waste is bad advice?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> My question got totally ignored it in the previous page.
> 
> I was asking if the water goes down clock wise or counter clock wise if we are in the Northern Hemisphere
> 
> I´m trying to setup a natural tornado in a 250mm EK res, and I need to figure out which side the water should come in from to avoid disrupting the natural flow of the water draining
> 
> If i drop the water from the top center it will cause too much tempest and disrupt the event horizon, If i input water from the wrong side it will cause an artificial spin to the opposite to the natural flow.


The water in your res will flow the way the pump forces it to go.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Your completely missing the elephant in the room.
> 
> EK's coolant is antifreeze, it even uses the amazingly toxic Ethylene glycol that you've been tolling about rather than the less toxic propylene glycol the other brands use. .


Ummm think you should further research MAYHEMS site for their MDS.

Considering that EK has changed their Coolant to MAYHEMS coolant, all earlier info should be considered moot.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Maybe, but when a member is actively giving out poor advice it needs to be questioned and discussed.
> 
> 
> 
> Following government regulations for disposing hazardous waste is bad advice?
Click to expand...

Considering AntiFreeze _*is*_ toxic? What do you think? Shouldn't even have to educate you on safe handling/disposal practices should we? It's rather effing simple I would think. Take it to a parts store or Mechanic shop which should have a filtration setup and let them dispose of it free of charge. Costs you nothing more than a little time and gas.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Your completely missing the elephant in the room.
> 
> EK's coolant is antifreeze, it even uses the amazingly toxic Ethylene glycol that you've been tolling about rather than the less toxic propylene glycol the other brands use. .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ummm think you should further research MAYHEMS site for their MDS.
> 
> Considering that EK has changed their Coolant to MAYHEMS coolant, all earlier info should be considered moot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Only their pastel is mayhems. Their EVO is the same as its always been.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ummm think you should further research MAYHEMS site for their MDS.
> 
> Considering that EK has changed their Coolant to MAYHEMS coolant, all earlier info should be considered moot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Considering AntiFreeze _*is*_ toxic? What do you think? Shouldn't even have to educate you on safe handling/disposal practices should we? It's rather effing simple I would think. Take it to a parts store or Mechanic shop which should have a filtration setup and let them dispose of it free of charge. Costs you nothing more than a little time and gas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


and you should look further too..
http://mayhems.net/sds/xt1/250mll/xt1_clear_250ml.pdf


----------



## Ceadderman

^Color me shocked. I'd heard differently but thank you for opening my eyes to this ignorant usage.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Your completely missing the elephant in the room.
> 
> EK's coolant is antifreeze, it even uses the amazingly toxic Ethylene glycol that you've been tolling about rather than the less toxic propylene glycol the other brands use. .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ummm think you should further research MAYHEMS site for their MDS.
> 
> Considering that EK has changed their Coolant to MAYHEMS coolant, all earlier info should be considered moot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Only their pastel is mayhems. Their EVO is the same as its always been.
Click to expand...

Far as I knew it was now all Mayhems. there really is no reason to run AntiFreeze though. If they are using it, it's a lazy way of introducing anti corrosives into a custom loop. 1 drop is all that's necessary to keep the system free of corrosion. For those that want a Biocide? Well one drop of that is all that's necessary too. Buying a bottle of each at the same time costs the same as a bottle of AntiFreeze, but over the life of those bottles how many times will they be used before you need to buy more.

So if EK is only using Mayhems for Pastel, I am wrong and will cop to that. Even so, we all know it's a lazy and antiquated practice and more to the point encourages people to dispose of it incorrectly. I cannot believe people actually dump it down the drain. Did you know that the US Government reserves the right to FINE you for improper disposal of Ethylene Glycol products? There is no filtration system that is 100% at this time. Don't believe me? Ask Baton Roouge residents if their filtration ponds weren't flooded. Why even take the chance? That's just naive thinking.









~Ceadder


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^Color me shocked. I'd heard differently but thank you for opening my eyes to this ignorant usage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Far as I knew it was now all Mayhems. there really is no reason to run AntiFreeze though. If they are using it, it's a lazy way of introducing anti corrosives into a custom loop. 1 drop is all that's necessary to keep the system free of corrosion. For those that want a Biocide? Well one drop of that is all that's necessary too. Buying a bottle of each at the same time costs the same as a bottle of AntiFreeze, but over the life of those bottles how many times will they be used before you need to buy more.
> 
> So if EK is only using Mayhems for Pastel, I am wrong and will cop to that. Even so, we all know it's a lazy and antiquated practice and more to the point encourages people to dispose of it incorrectly. *I cannot believe people actually dump it down the drain. Did you know that the US Government reserves the right to FINE you for improper disposal of Ethylene Glycol products?* There is no filtration system that is 100% at this time. Don't believe me? Ask Baton Roouge residents if their filtration ponds weren't flooded. Why even take the chance? That's just naive thinking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ive already posted the WI regulations on this...

Here they are again...
Quote:


> To facilitate recycling, do not mix used antifreeze with solid or hazardous waste. Mixing used antifreeze with other substances such as oil or solvent may prevent its ability to be recycled and may cause it to become hazardous waste.


Quote:


>  If the antifreeze is a hazardous waste, it may be expensive to dispose of.
>  You must have permission from the wastewater treatment plant before discharging used antifreeze to the sanitary sewer. If the used antifreeze is a hazardous waste, you may be subject to the wastewater discharge reporting requirements in ch. NR 211.
>  Dumping used antifreeze into a storm sewer or on the ground is illegal and may be harmful to lakes and streams, people, pets and wildlife.
>  Discharging used antifreeze into a septic tank and soil absorption field is illegal. It may cause the septic system to fail and result in groundwater pollution.
>  Recycling used antifreeze can reduce environmental liability associated with disposal.


CN: If it's not mixed with other things, and you have permission from the local wastewater treatment plant, you can dump it down the toilet.









dnr.wi.gov/files/pdf/pubs/wa/wa356.pdf

Propylene glycol, which is used in all PC coolants, that I looked at, that don't use Ethylene glycol, is still considered antifreeze. You can still go to walmart and buy a bottle of it premixed with anti corrosion/etc additives for a few dollors.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> My question got totally ignored it in the previous page.
> 
> I was asking if the water goes down clock wise or counter clock wise if we are in the Northern Hemisphere
> 
> I´m trying to setup a natural tornado in a 250mm EK res, and I need to figure out which side the water should come in from to avoid disrupting the natural flow of the water draining
> 
> If i drop the water from the top center it will cause too much tempest and disrupt the event horizon, If i input water from the wrong side it will cause an artificial spin to the opposite to the natural flow.


I got my two res to flow opposite ways by using different ports on my res's while running dual loops and Aurora. I didn't notice any disruptions or anything.

Btw since I have a toilet and live in North America... counter-clockwise is the way she flows.

An unusual amount of toilet talk here recently... (don't break the planet please! But let's keep the thread intact too)


----------



## maslows

Just remember


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Ive already posted the WI regulations on this...
> 
> Here they are again...
> 
> CN: If it's not mixed with other things, and you have permission from the local wastewater treatment plant, you can dump it down the toilet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dnr.wi.gov/files/pdf/pubs/wa/wa356.pdf
> 
> Propylene glycol, which is used in all PC coolants, that I looked at, that don't use Ethylene glycol, is still considered antifreeze. You can still go to walmart and buy a bottle of it premixed with anti corrosion/etc additives for a few dollors.


Aren't your blocks looking a bit funky? See if EK will replace them under warranty, don't forget to mention you've used 25% antifreeze in your loop yet there is corrosion still happening despite all the stuff in it for corrosion.


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Aren't your blocks looking a bit funky? See if EK will replace them under warranty, don't forget to mention you've used 25% antifreeze in your loop yet there is corrosion still happening despite all the stuff in it for corrosion.


I'll be sure to mention that, along with the promochill LRT blodred hose that another user is having issues with as well.

GPU block is screwy, both of my CPU blocks were fine.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> I'll be sure to mention that, along with the promochill LRT blodred hose that another user is having issues with as well.
> 
> GPU block is screwy, both of my CPU blocks were fine.


Let us know how you get on, I'll be interested in what EK makes of it.


----------



## kl6mk6

I just remembered you can block people. YAY!


----------



## seross69

Guys your are always going to have a certain amount of nickle plated blocks fail as it is plating and not solid! It will be small amount but still they will


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Or the Classified blocks


Don't know if you saw Akiras post, won't be any Classy blocks from EK.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> Don't know if you saw Akiras post, won't be any Classy blocks from EK.


Dang, looks like I'll be getting some FTW cards instead.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I just remembered you can block people. YAY!


Does that mean me?







FeelsBadMan.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Guess EK doesn't want to be Classy then lol


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Dang, looks like I'll be getting some FTW cards instead.


Ya, I didn't ask why. Not sure I would get a reason, but interesting they aren't making a block for the high end classy. I have 2 FTW's, and glad I didn't go with classy now.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Guess EK doesn't want to be Classy then lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> Ya, I didn't ask why. Not sure I would get a reason, but interesting they aren't making a block for the high end classy. I have 2 FTW's, and glad I didn't go with classy now.


Not sure why this page said late august now we're getting none.

https://www.ekwb.com/news/official-list-of-ek-water-blocks-for-gtx-1080-series/


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Not sure why this page said late august now we're getting none.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/news/official-list-of-ek-water-blocks-for-gtx-1080-series/


Ya, I saw that as well. I also thought I saw on their site it said "coming soon" at one point. It was posted yesterday on the FTW block thread, classy will not be getting one. Maybe @akira749 can shed some light on it for us.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> Ya, I saw that as well. I also thought I saw on their site it said "coming soon" at one point. It was posted yesterday on the FTW block thread, classy will not be getting one. Maybe @akira749 can shed some light on it for us.


Maybe not enough cards have been bought to warrant mass producing blocks. Better to sell blocks for cards out in the masses than have blocks sat in the warehouse collecting dust?


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Maybe not enough cards have been bought to warrant mass producing blocks. Better to sell blocks for cards out in the masses than have blocks sat in the warehouse collecting dust?


True, could be the reason. I know they had issues at one point with EVGA, but that has been settled it seems. Maybe in the future, but for now it seems FTW or another card would be the way to go for anyone looking.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> True, could be the reason. I know they had issues at one point with EVGA, but that has been settled it seems. Maybe in the future, but for now it seems FTW or another card would be the way to go for anyone looking.


Very disappointing, I hope someone else makes a block for it so people who bought a classy to go as far as they could clock wise gets their wish. I really wanted some classys in sli with some EK blocks.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Very disappointing, I hope someone else makes a block for it so people who bought a classy to go as far as they could clock wise gets their wish. I really wanted some classys in sli with some EK blocks.


seriously, i think you'd be better off getting FTWs. lets just say going from a 780ti to 980ti classifieds, i was highly disappointed with the very limited voltage scaling of maxwell and seems more so with pascal. add to that seeing much cheaper cards OCing better . . .

just get a card with dual bios - one for everyday, one for "play"(if a bios tweaker ever comes about) and it will save enough money to almost pay for the blocks.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> seriously, i think you'd be better off getting FTWs. lets just say going from a 780ti to 980ti classifieds, i was highly disappointed with the very limited voltage scaling of maxwell and seems more so with pascal. add to that seeing much cheaper cards OCing better . . .
> 
> just get a card with dual bios - one for everyday, one for "play"(if a bios tweaker ever comes about) and it will save enough money to almost pay for the blocks.


True, I'm very much so waiting for the bios tweaker, keeping an eye on the 1080 thread to see which cards clock well.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Maybe not enough cards have been bought to warrant mass producing blocks. Better to sell blocks for cards out in the masses than have blocks sat in the warehouse collecting dust?


I'm suspecting it's EVGA holding everything back again (like they did with Maxwell both times) in combination with lack of sales (because the blocks took sooooooooo long to reach market because of EVGA's delays).


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I'm suspecting it's EVGA holding everything back again (like they did with Maxwell both times) in combination with lack of sales (because the blocks took sooooooooo long to reach market because of EVGA's delays).


It just sucks for everyone with a classy, I figure most spending the $ on them, would want to WC them. Only makes sense to me..... I guess


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> It just sucks for everyone with a classy, I figure most spending the $ on them, would want to WC them. Only makes sense to me..... I guess


You can use the universal block but tbh a full block is best when maxing out a gpu because the VRM and VRAM etc need cooling too.


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> You can use the universal block but tbh a full block is best when maxing out a gpu because the VRM and VRAM etc need cooling too.


Ya, I hear that. I will be cooling 2 FTW's, so no worries here. Just waiting for those blocks to be released.


----------



## emsj86

Why do the same people always argue to the point of pages of pages all of the same people. Not to be rude but make your orginal point and boom that's it. You will never convince he other guy to believe what you think and the other guy won't for you. That's why I state what I believe or know and than fall back.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Why do the same people always argue to the point of pages of pages all of the same people. Not to be rude but make your orginal point and boom that's it. You will never convince he other guy to believe what you think and the other guy won't for you. That's why I state what I believe or know and than fall back.


That sounds strikingly similar to a CSGO tactic!


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Why do the same people always argue to the point of pages of pages all of the same people. Not to be rude but make your orginal point and boom that's it. You will never convince he other guy to believe what you think and the other guy won't for you. That's why I state what I believe or know and than fall back.


Some argue their points with opinions and feelings while parroting information that is wrong. Others try to spread useful information backed up with facts and experience.


----------



## emsj86

Yes but if someone chooses to keep avoiding the facts just let it be


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yes but if someone chooses to keep avoiding the facts just let it be


I should have stopped, but i was honestly having too much fun,.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Why do the same people always argue to the point of pages of pages all of the same people. Not to be rude but make your orginal point and boom that's it. You will never convince he other guy to believe what you think and the other guy won't for you. That's why I state what I believe or know and than fall back.


Fair point, it's wrong of me to try and correct ignorance. Will learn from this moving forward.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yes but if someone chooses to keep avoiding the facts just let it be


I wasn't avoiding them however.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Fair point, it's wrong of me to try and correct ignorance. Will learn from this moving forward.
> I wasn't avoiding them however.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*


I have stopped, I was replying to someone though?


----------



## DMatthewStewart

So, to get back on track, I wanted to show you guys what Ive been up. Im currently doing two builds. One is an APU based steam machine/htpc. And ive decided that Im sick of the stamped metal bracket for the Supremacy. So Ive decided to cut some out of carbon fiber. Its not vinyl. Its not a decal. Its aerospace low-void 1x1 checkerboard carbon fiber. Its too perfect and too large to not be a great canvas. Enjoy!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ooh real Carbonfiber


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> So, to get back on track, I wanted to show you guys what Ive been up. Im currently doing two builds. One is an APU based steam machine/htpc. And ive decided that Im sick of the stamped metal bracket for the Supremacy. So Ive decided to cut some out of carbon fiber. Its not vinyl. Its not a decal. Its aerospace low-void 1x1 checkerboard carbon fiber. Its too perfect and too large to not be a great canvas. Enjoy!


I think we need more real carbon fiber parts in our computers. just imo


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> I think we need more real carbon fiber parts in our computers. just imo


Nah.... Unless the colour scheme calls for it.

TCO


----------



## Gilles3000

At least its better than carbon fiber vinyl. I always get a little nauseated when I see someone's rig covered in the stuff, and colored carbon fiber vinyl is even worse.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Nah.... Unless the colour scheme calls for it.
> 
> TCO


the good thing is it comes in different colors and weaves. but its ALL subjective anyway.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> At least its better than carbon fiber vinyl. I always get a little nauseated when I see someone's rig covered in the stuff, and colored carbon fiber vinyl is even worse.


Awwwwww, . . . . . See what ya went and done now . . .

You went and made the newbs cry

D.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> So, to get back on track, I wanted to show you guys what Ive been up. Im currently doing two builds. One is an APU based steam machine/htpc. And ive decided that Im sick of the stamped metal bracket for the Supremacy. So Ive decided to cut some out of carbon fiber. Its not vinyl. Its not a decal. Its aerospace low-void 1x1 checkerboard carbon fiber. Its too perfect and too large to not be a great canvas. Enjoy!


Oh that looks nice! Carbon fibre is a thing of beauty.


----------



## tistou77

Hello

I installed this kit EK-FB KIT ASUS R5E10 on a Rampage V Edition 10, and I think the VRM heat a lot compared to the Rampage V Extreme and EK-FB KIT ASUS R5E
Comparing the 2 "Installation Manual", I found that this is not the same thickness pads

For R5E
Thermal pad A - *0.5mm (for VRM/MOSFET)*
Thermal pad A - 1.0mm (for inductor coils)

For R5E10
Thermal pad F - 0.5mm (for VRM inductor coils)
Thermal pad F - *1mm (for MOSFETS )*

This is normal or there is an error ?

Thanks


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I installed this kit EK-FB KIT ASUS R5E10 on a Rampage V Edition 10, and I think the VRM heat a lot compared to the Rampage V Extreme and EK-FB KIT ASUS R5E
> Comparing the 2 "Installation Manual", I found that this is not the same thickness pads
> 
> For R5E
> Thermal pad A - *0.5mm (for VRM/MOSFET)*
> Thermal pad A - 1.0mm (for inductor coils)
> 
> For R5E10
> Thermal pad F - 0.5mm (for VRM inductor coils)
> Thermal pad F - *1mm (for MOSFETS )*
> 
> This is normal or there is an error ?
> 
> Thanks


I they might not use the same components or the block is different physically, I would just use the pads as instructed. EK spend a lot of money on R&D.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I they might not use the same components or the block is different physically, I would just use the pads as instructed. EK spend a lot of money on R&D.


It has, and will happen again, that typos occur in the manuals of manufactured parts. You don't have to answer every question on this forum, especially if you don't know the answer for sure. You can let people who have a real answer respond before giving your opinion that could not only be incorrect, but could potentially lead to someone damaging components.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> It has, and will happen again, that typos occur in the manuals of manufactured parts. You don't have to answer every question on this forum, especially if you don't know the answer for sure. You can let people who have a real answer respond before giving your opinion that could not only be incorrect, but could potentially lead to someone damaging components.


Sorry. I guess it's from my motorcycle mechanic days.


----------



## akira749

I got dizzy reading 62 posts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!









To answer everyone about the classy block....we had to make a sad decision. Our production dept. is extremely overloaded hence why the delays of some release were longer than we wanted and also the usual EK components (CPU blocks for example) suffers from that too and are quickly out of stock on a regular basis. We hate that and we had to make a decision and remove a product from our extended list of awaiting blocks.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I installed this kit EK-FB KIT ASUS R5E10 on a Rampage V Edition 10, and I think the VRM heat a lot compared to the Rampage V Extreme and EK-FB KIT ASUS R5E
> Comparing the 2 "Installation Manual", I found that this is not the same thickness pads
> 
> For R5E
> Thermal pad A - *0.5mm (for VRM/MOSFET)*
> Thermal pad A - 1.0mm (for inductor coils)
> 
> For R5E10
> Thermal pad F - 0.5mm (for VRM inductor coils)
> Thermal pad F - *1mm (for MOSFETS )*
> 
> This is normal or there is an error ?
> 
> Thanks


I will make sure that it's not an error.


----------



## Panther Al

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> So, to get back on track, I wanted to show you guys what Ive been up. Im currently doing two builds. One is an APU based steam machine/htpc. And ive decided that Im sick of the stamped metal bracket for the Supremacy. So Ive decided to cut some out of carbon fiber. Its not vinyl. Its not a decal. Its aerospace low-void 1x1 checkerboard carbon fiber. Its too perfect and too large to not be a great canvas. Enjoy!


Makes me wonder who will be the first to hand lay a homebuilt case out of Carbon Fibre. Better be someone on this Forum.


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> Makes me wonder who will be the first to hand lay a homebuilt case out of Carbon Fibre. Better be someone on this Forum.


I'm surprised that it hasn't been done more often, custom cases made from all plexy/acrylic were common way back when...

http://www.thecarbonfiberjournal.com/?p=985


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> Makes me wonder who will be the first to hand lay a homebuilt case out of Carbon Fibre. Better be someone on this Forum.


Hmm carbonfiber Casealabs panels would be nice


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Hmm carbonfiber Casealabs panels would be nice


aye! I concur, I'll most definitely pay extra to get authentic CF panels


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I will make sure that it's not an error.


Thanks









I checked on the ASUS VRM blocks
On the R5E, a pad is thicker than the other
On the R5E10, the 2 pads have almost the same thickness

I wondered if there was not a problem on my R5E10 because the temperature of the VRM and PCH are really warmer than the R5E


----------



## mikehii

My first watercooling built with EK cheers


----------



## nzphil

Wow that's a serious rig! Just for gaming??


----------



## Benjiw

Man that is one sexy machine, the DDR4 ram kits for the most part are mega sexy looking.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Man that is one sexy machine, the DDR4 ram kits for the most part are mega sexy looking.


No doubt. Am so jelly I cannot get onto z99+ right now. Still need Doms for RAM cooling choice but DDR4 is sickeningly fast compared to DDR3.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No doubt. Am so jelly I cannot get onto z99+ right now. Still need Doms for RAM cooling choice but DDR4 is sickeningly fast compared to DDR3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sold my z97 gear and upgrading to z170 will probs move on to Kabylake or the next extreme platform after but I dunno, I'm still mega hopeful for Zen.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

I appreciate the positive feedback from you guys. Its this forum where I really care what people think. Its this forum that has worked me out of my numerous troubles. Responses below (sorry for wall of text):
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> I think we need more real carbon fiber parts in our computers. just imo


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Nah.... Unless the colour scheme calls for it.
> 
> TCO


I agree with you both. Good thing it comes (and can be made) in almost limitless varieties of colors. But I dont like all of them. Some people love CF no matter what colors are in it. There are blocks that have day-glo sandwiched between them (mostly for jewelry makers) However, anything beyond the 1x1 checkerboard that I used tends to get pretty expensive. For example, marbled CF is 2x more expensive (yikes). You know what I do like though? Ive been looking into various high-heat weaves of CF. And (I shouldnt be saying this yet) But I have a mock-up of two different materials combined on one block that may outperform what we are currently using (on paper it already does outperform it).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> I'm surprised that it hasn't been done more often, custom cases made from all plexy/acrylic were common way back when...
> 
> http://www.thecarbonfiberjournal.com/?p=985


Me too. Thats why I started making a bunch of parts (little things) from CF. I'll post more soon. Most are directly related to EK stuff anyway so it will be here in this thread first
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Hmm carbonfiber Casealabs panels would be nice


And oddly no one has done it. Or I havent seen it. But I say "oddly" because it would be the easiest pieces to machine. But, it is a pain to work with. The dust is absolutely toxic. Its worse than fiberglass. So you have to have the right respirator. And the slivers are terrible. Even using the thickest rubber gloves I can find every once in a while I get a sliver. You cant see it. But you feel it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> aye! I concur, I'll most definitely pay extra to get authentic CF panels


Its funny because I fee the same way. Yet, when I did a first test cut of this and put it on IG people were hating on it. Calling it "stupid" and "useless" and that it [sic] "doesnt make any difference if its real CF or not, it doesnt change anything" and so on. Told me "real" modders use fake CF bc it looks better and again "doesnt matter anyway". My only response was: "If we're building machines that are $2-3K, why would you go cheap on a few little things?" and in regards to it not "change[ing] anything" my position is simple: It changes everything. Its the difference between buying an S Class 500 and an S Class 600. One is wonderful, the other is the epitomes of luxury and a true beast. But the changes between the two are subtle. You have to know where to look.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> IAnd oddly no one has done it. Or I havent seen it. But I say "oddly" because it would be the easiest pieces to machine. But, it is a pain to work with. The dust is absolutely toxic. Its worse than fiberglass. So you have to have the right respirator. And the slivers are terrible. Even using the thickest rubber gloves I can find every once in a while I get a sliver. You cant see it. But you feel it.


Instead of milling it, perhaps it would be better to mold it, like it's done for cars parts of even bike frame. Still expensive, but less risk from the dust. I'd like to see more PC part made out of CF, even if it's a niche market because of the price.


----------



## porro

Hey guys,

I will be doing my first custom watercooling loop inside my fresh Evolv ATX Tempered Glass.

I have my eyes set on the XE360 rad. The parts that I will be cooling:

i7 6700k (OC'ed)
MSI 1070 Seahawk EK X (OC'ed)
a small part of my Maximus VIII Formula motherboard (VRM,..)

Will the XE360 be enough to keep this all cool? Or do I need to add another rad?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porro*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I will be doing my first custom watercooling loop inside my fresh Evolv ATX Tempered Glass.
> 
> I got my eyes set on the XE360 rad. The parts that I will be cooling:
> 
> i7 6700k (OC'ed)
> MSI 1070 Seahawk EK X (OC'ed)
> a small part of my Maximus VIII Formula motherboard (VRM,..)
> 
> Will the XE360 be enough to keep this all cool? Or do I need to add another rad?


My gf has her 6600k and a 970 both overclocked and cooled with one 360mm radiator so as long as it fit's the case you should be okay.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikehii*
> 
> My first watercooling built with EK cheers
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


first time?

nice job for even the 1000th time.









wow, its confirmed, i am an impatient loser.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porro*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I will be doing my first custom watercooling loop inside my fresh Evolv ATX Tempered Glass.
> 
> I have my eyes set on the XE360 rad. The parts that I will be cooling:
> 
> i7 6700k (OC'ed)
> MSI 1070 Seahawk EK X (OC'ed)
> a small part of my Maximus VIII Formula motherboard (VRM,..)
> 
> Will the XE360 be enough to keep this all cool? Or do I need to add another rad?


I would suggest as the minimum 2x 360 rads

worse case scenario one 360mm + one 240mm

you basically want 2x 120mm per heat component


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porro*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I will be doing my first custom watercooling loop inside my fresh Evolv ATX Tempered Glass.
> 
> I have my eyes set on the XE360 rad. The parts that I will be cooling:
> 
> i7 6700k (OC'ed)
> MSI 1070 Seahawk EK X (OC'ed)
> a small part of my Maximus VIII Formula motherboard (VRM,..)
> 
> Will the XE360 be enough to keep this all cool? Or do I need to add another rad?


360mm of rad would be the minimum i would say. Alot of people suggest a minimum of 120mm per cooled component + an extra 120mm. I'm doing 140mm per component + 140mm (2x280 rads) and that is more than enough to keep my pc running cool and whisper quiet for my hours of gaming.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porro*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I will be doing my first custom watercooling loop inside my fresh Evolv ATX Tempered Glass.
> 
> I have my eyes set on the XE360 rad. The parts that I will be cooling:
> 
> i7 6700k (OC'ed)
> MSI 1070 Seahawk EK X (OC'ed)
> a small part of my Maximus VIII Formula motherboard (VRM,..)
> 
> Will the XE360 be enough to keep this all cool? Or do I need to add another rad?


It should be fine. And if you want some overhead, you could add a 240.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porro*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I will be doing my first custom watercooling loop inside my fresh Evolv ATX Tempered Glass.
> 
> I have my eyes set on the XE360 rad. The parts that I will be cooling:
> 
> i7 6700k (OC'ed)
> MSI 1070 Seahawk EK X (OC'ed)
> a small part of my Maximus VIII Formula motherboard (VRM,..)
> 
> Will the XE360 be enough to keep this all cool? Or do I need to add another rad?


A single 360 is definitely enough for those power efficient components.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> A single 360 is definitely enough for those power efficient components.


Id say its enough just depends what temps you want to look for and how quite you want a system. More rad space=better temps=lower rpms=quieter system.


----------



## looniam

fwiw, i have a single 280 for an 2600K (4.4Ghz 1.328v) and 980ti ([email protected] 1.23v /380w TDP bios mod)

running both prime95 blend and furmark sees ~74c on the i7(peak core others ~68c) and 50c on the gpu while being silent compared to stock cooling. gaming/benching is ~12c/10c lower for both. though looking to add more rad in my non WC friendly cheap case like a phat 120 (40mm or 60mm thick).

but winter is coming and i keep my house just above freezing.


----------



## JunkStar

Btw the EVGA FTW block is ready for pre-order... Already pre-ordered mine










https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-ftw-nickel


----------



## scgt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*
> 
> Btw the EVGA FTW block is ready for pre-order... Already pre-ordered mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-ftw-nickel


Debating on ordering one. The shipping though. :-( Would have been nice for the discount code to still be in working order. Or a Labor Day one but I don't think they celebrate Labor Day.


----------



## JunkStar

I dont think anyone outside the US celebrate Labor Day to be honest... And yeah i can imagine the shipping must be steep when it has to cross the pond :/


----------



## scgt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*
> 
> I dont think anyone outside the US celebrate Labor Day to be honest... And yeah i can imagine the shipping must be steep when it has to cross the pond :/


It's not too too bad but it's more then I would pay from Performance PCS. Although they aren't doing a pre-order so who knows when they will have them listed for sale and who knows if I'll be able to get one ordered before they sell out of the first stock. So EK is getting my coin I guess at $193.81 :-/ for block and backplate.

Talk about jumping through hoops. They don't accept Paypal Credit for 0% interest for 6mnths. So I make a payment to my fiances account then transfer ff to my account that way I get the 0% on the amount. Go to checkout with pp balance and guess what.....No Paypal balance accepted either. WTH!. So now I have to transfer to my bank from PP to cover using my bank accounts funds. LOL What a joke. If I haven't had the card sitting on my desk for 2 weeks still sealed I would have just waited and tried my luck at Performance PCS. Note to self stay the heck away from EKWB shop from now on.









Decided to opt in at getting it around 6 days earlier so total was $200.50. :-(


----------



## W8lifts

just finished my EK Loop. 600C case, EKWB Water Loop (10/12) , GA-X99-Gaming 5P MOBO ,I7 5820k, 32 GB DDR4 Ram, 2 X 1080 FE in SLI, X400 M.2 SSD, 2 tb HDD , EVGA 1000 Watt GQ PSU, hue+ RGB lighting.....
All EK Copper Blocks, EK Rad 280 and 360, EK PETG 10/12 with EK Compression fittings, EK Bay Pump/Res.


----------



## HMoneyGrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *W8lifts*
> 
> just finished my EK Loop. 600C case, EKWB Water Loop (10/12) , GA-X99-Gaming 5P MOBO ,I7 5820k, 32 GB DDR4 Ram, 2 X 1080 FE in SLI, X400 M.2 SSD, 2 tb HDD , EVGA 1000 Watt GQ PSU, hue+ RGB lighting.....
> All EK Copper Blocks, EK Rad 280 and 360, EK PETG 10/12 with EK Compression fittings, EK Bay Pump/Res.


Very nice work!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*
> 
> I dont think anyone outside the US celebrate Labor Day to be honest... And yeah i can imagine the shipping must be steep when it has to cross the pond :/


Most Canadians get Labour Day off, and we're definitely not American


----------



## emsj86

Ah Labor Day the made up holiday so people forget the real Labor Day event


----------



## scgt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Ah Labor Day the made up holiday so people forget the real Labor Day event


Maybe confussing Labor Day with Memorial Day?
That is the one hardly anyone adhears to. It's not about bbqing, getting druck and boating then drowning in a lake.


----------



## Radnad

Was this ever formally announced?



newegg has it in stock, might be worth picking up.


----------



## Ceadderman

I believe that it was formally announced when 480 was launched. As far as a block goes? No that was not announced yet.









Though am not sure it's worth picking up a 470 unless that's the direction you indended to go in the first place.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Hoping to pick up a pair of 1070 Seahawk EK X's if my Define Nano rig sells
Or might just snag a single 1080 FTW and block


----------



## InfoSeeker

@Akira - Does the EK-FC Terminal Direct work on the EK-FC I750 SSD?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> @Akira - Does the EK-FC Terminal Direct work on the EK-FC I750 SSD?


Yes and it comes with it as an extra terminal. So you get the standard terminal with the ports on each side and you get the Direct one too.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes and it comes with it as an extra terminal. So you get the standard terminal with the ports on each side and you get the Direct one too.


Ah, sweet








And i see that now. having read the manual after you pointed that out.


----------



## figgie

Hi folks,

part of the EK club with the following

1 x EVO Supreme 2011-3 CPU water block
1 x ASUS R5e northbridge and vram cooling blocks
1 x Asus R5E Monoblock (had purchased the above 2 months prior to this one coming out).

1 x Asus Ares 3 w/ EK water block from factory (195 of 500)

2 x Titan XP GPU water blocks
2 x Titan XP backplates

in the works

1 x Supremacy EVO Elite 2011-3 Nickel


----------



## nzphil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *figgie*
> 
> Hi folks,
> 
> part of the EK club with the following
> 
> 1 x EVO Supreme 2011-3 CPU water block
> 1 x ASUS R5e northbridge and vram cooling blocks
> 1 x Asus R5E Monoblock (had purchased the above 2 months prior to this one coming out).
> 
> 1 x Asus Ares 3 w/ EK water block from factory (195 of 500)
> 
> 2 x Titan XP GPU water blocks
> 2 x Titan XP backplates
> 
> in the works
> 
> 1 x Supremacy EVO Elite 2011-3 Nickel


\
Pic or it didn't happen


----------



## AllGamer

*@akira749* or anyone

Does anyone know the measurements of this pump?

*EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial - (incl. 2x pump)* https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial-incl-pump

I googled a few pages, but they are all copy and paste from the source, and the source is missing the length / width / height of this thing.

I'm trying to figure out if it will fit sandwiched between 2x EK 360 XE rad in push / pull inside an S8 Pedestal.

*2nd question.*

EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM water flow...

Does it goes from center to side, or it's actually the reverse?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

@AllGamer - Your blue arrows are correct.

In fact you'll notice that most (if not all) D5 tops have intake in the center along the spindle axis, and exhaust on the side tangentially to the impeller rotation. This must be due to the centrifugal way the impeller works.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@akira749* or anyone
> 
> Does anyone know the measurements of this pump?
> 
> *EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial - (incl. 2x pump)* https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial-incl-pump
> 
> I googled a few pages, but they are all copy and paste from the source, and the source is missing the length / width / height of this thing.
> 
> I'm trying to figure out if it will fit sandwiched between 2x EK 360 XE rad in push / pull inside an S8 Pedestal.
> 
> *2nd question.*
> 
> EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM water flow...
> 
> Does it goes from center to side, or it's actually the reverse?


Center is the in and side is the out.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Center is the in and side is the out.


Yep the propeller (I think that's correct?) intakes coolant in the middle and throws it outwards as it spins.


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Yep the propeller (I think that's correct?) intakes coolant in the middle and throws it outwards as it spins.


Believe with fluid pumps it's an "impeller"


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> Believe with fluid pumps it's an "impeller"


yup. D5 impeller looks p cool.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> Believe with fluid pumps it's an "impeller"


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> yup. D5 impeller looks p cool.


Dang, Thanks for the correction, I'm not really too up on impeller and propeller lingo.


----------



## Radnad

Just to help brighten the day with a little knowledge.









http://wordpress.mrreid.org/2014/08/29/propellers-and-impellers/


----------



## DrFreeman35

Ok I'll be using a Bitspower mod kit from PPC's and it has a PWM EK pump, can I use this with the pump to fill the loop? I've never done WC before, so trying to figure out what's best option for it.

Edit: I've heard that some PWM pumps can have trouble filling the loop, and have seen posts to where the % was at 5 or 10.

Edit 2: also I understand the Sata connector for power, would I need an extension if pump is mounted inside an SMA8? And the 3 pin to PWM 4 pin should make it run at 100%? Sorry kind of confused


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> Ok I'll be using a Bitspower mod kit from PPC's and it has a PWM EK pump, can I use this with the pump to fill the loop? I've never done WC before, so trying to figure out what's best option for it.
> 
> Edit: I've heard that some PWM pumps can have trouble filling the loop, and have seen posts to where the % was at 5 or 10.
> 
> Edit 2: also I understand the Sata connector for power, would I need an extension if pump is mounted inside an SMA8? And the 3 pin to PWM 4 pin should make it run at 100%? Sorry kind of confused


I couldn't say but the way I get around issues like that when filling is I often fill the res right to the top then undo a port else where in the loop to stop air lock, I also tilt the case a little to help the coolant fill a little more of the loop.

I found this which might help you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If the pump is running slowly make sure its PWM cable is not connected to the unpowered motherboard while you are using external power on the pump. If you want full power you can connect a 5V source to the PWM line on the PWM connector


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> With a piece of wire. Just unplug the pumps PWM connector and put one end of the wire into the back of the PWM wire and the other end into the back of a 5V line like the Molex connector the pumps power is connected to. Just be sure to double check which ones you connect.
> 
> If the pumps PWM connector is plugged into the motherboard while the motherboard is not powered, like when leak testing, the pump will run at minimum speed.


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I couldn't say but the way I get around issues like that when filling is I often fill the res right to the top then undo a port else where in the loop to stop air lock, I also tilt the case a little to help the coolant fill a little more of the loop.
> 
> I found this which might help you.


Ok thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I'm going to begin building and testing components over the holidays, so I have some time to research.


----------



## HeyThereGuy

Could someone let me know if this is the correct bridge for SLI 1080's (with a blank for the middle port) for a Maximus VIII Extreme motherboard?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi


----------



## mypickaxe

I'm currently bleeding and will begin leak testing my second all EK parts water cooled build. I guess you could say it's my redundant system.



All that in a Fractal Design Define Nano S and an expanded Predator 240.









I've got to say, that black nickel with blood red Advanced LRT tubing is a sweet combination.


----------



## RebelHell

Just some update photos. Changed the white PSU cables to red/black cablemod cables. Also added some ROG branding...because purty.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I'm currently bleeding and will begin leak testing my second all EK parts water cooled build. I guess you could say it's my redundant system.
> 
> 
> 
> All that in a Fractal Design Define Nano S and an expanded Predator 240.


Success...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyThereGuy*
> 
> Could someone let me know if this is the correct bridge for SLI 1080's (with a blank for the middle port) for a Maximus VIII Extreme motherboard?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi


You're correct.









And the blank you need is this one : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-blank-parallel


----------



## JCArch

Any chance Gigabyte's 1070 Mini will have a block produced? I have my fingers crossed, but I realize it's the only SFF PCB thus far and it's probably not economical to produce blocks for such a niche card, whereas the 9xx series had a few.


----------



## AllGamer

Lets try this again...

Does anyone know the size of this pump *EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial*?


----------



## Kimir

check the pdf on EK website, there is 142mm between the 2 bracket external hole. The pumps doesn't seems to go farther than that, so there you go, 142mm.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Lets try this again...
> 
> Does anyone know the size of this pump *EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial*?


Roughly 150mm x 75mm according to the PDF on their website.


----------



## HeyThereGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You're correct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the blank you need is this one : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-blank-parallel


Thanks!


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> check the pdf on EK website, there is 142mm between the 2 bracket external hole. The pumps doesn't seems to go farther than that, so there you go, 142mm.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Roughly 150mm x 75mm according to the PDF on their website.


Thank you to both.

I did not realize there was a PDF available.

I'll look for it next time


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Thank you to both.
> 
> I did not realize there was a PDF available.
> 
> I'll look for it next time


EK normally have PDF and instructions on their site in case you need another copy or looking it up prior to buying their products.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> EK normally have PDF and instructions on their site in case you need another copy or looking it up prior to buying their products.


yup I just noticed it is right above the price / add to cart button for all products.

in my mind it was just a patch of Red and Orange to make the page prettier








never noticed it was the PDF sign until after you guys mentioned it.

so, according to this



it can even be mounted on to a 120mm or 140mm fan.

This is very interesting.

it also gives me a good idea of the space it'll need.


----------



## iBruce

EK 120mm vertical UNI mount in action, thank you for this part EK.









http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_7703_zpst9t3ode0.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_7699_zpsxgobfhhb.jpg.html


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> EK 120mm vertical UNI mount in action, thank you for this part EK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_7703_zpst9t3ode0.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_7699_zpsxgobfhhb.jpg.html


I am using the same mount, for the same pump ibruce. (In an S8). Get a LOT of vibration from the pump through the case. Going to look at dampening it somehow. Maximum RPM I can run is 2200 without vibration or 75l/h

Looking good though in the pictures!


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> EK 120mm vertical UNI mount in action, thank you for this part EK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_7703_zpst9t3ode0.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_7699_zpsxgobfhhb.jpg.html


Can you help me to understand how this is better than just the regular fan mount, based on how you have the pump mounted? I only ask because it appears the horizontal portion (below the actual pump) isn't being used to support the weight of the pump.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Can you help me to understand how this is better than just the regular fan mount, based on how you have the pump mounted? I only ask because it appears the horizontal portion (below the actual pump) isn't being used to support the weight of the pump.


The horizontal part of the mount bracket is for the DDC pump setup


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> EK 120mm vertical UNI mount in action, thank you for this part EK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_7703_zpst9t3ode0.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_7699_zpsxgobfhhb.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am using the same mount, for the same pump ibruce. (In an S8). Get a LOT of vibration from the pump through the case. Going to look at dampening it somehow. Maximum RPM I can run is 2200 without vibration or 75l/h
> 
> Looking good though in the pictures!
Click to expand...

you using the washers between the mount and case? a real PITA but i've had my pump running ~4400*rpm w/o a sound.

*reported by AIDA OSD for a few miliseconds when i plugged in the pmw to my cpu header while the system was up - yeah i do crazy stuff like that.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> you using the washers between the mount and case? a real PITA but i've had my pump running ~4400*rpm w/o a sound.
> 
> *reported by AIDA OSD for a few miliseconds when i plugged in the pmw to my cpu header while the system was up - yeah i do crazy stuff like that.


I am using the plastic washers. Installed right now. New Aquacomputer D5 pump, same EK mount for the pump. I was actually thinking of using the AQ anti vibration standoffs (yellow), when I next pull the system down.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Any chance Gigabyte's 1070 Mini will have a block produced? I have my fingers crossed, but I realize it's the only SFF PCB thus far and it's probably not economical to produce blocks for such a niche card, whereas the 9xx series had a few.


No plans for it sorry.


----------



## akira749

EK releases monoblock for GIGABYTE Z170X Ultra Gaming and UD3 Ultra motherboards


----------



## Darkstar757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases monoblock for GIGABYTE Z170X Ultra Gaming and UD3 Ultra motherboards


I finally got all my equipment bro. I am very very pleased.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> 
> I am using the same mount, for the same pump ibruce. (In an S8). Get a LOT of vibration from the pump through the case. Going to look at dampening it somehow. Maximum RPM I can run is 2200 without vibration or 75l/h
> 
> Looking good though in the pictures!


You're getting some vibrational energy transmitting into your chassis? Are you using the newer EK super-soft ring dampers?

These?
















http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5956_zpsxmrb3g2c.jpg.html

I took the same EK 120mm vertical UNI mount and cut it down as a support base for a D5 and EK plexi XTOP. Can see the mod stages in pics below.

I'm getting zero noise vibration into my S8S with the pump assembly resting on the chassis floor, its perfectly isolated and quiet to about 50% power from an A6.

I'm using the newer EK ring damper and (4) 1 inch diameter Sorbothane Hemispheres set at durometer 30. The Sorbo feet do absorb a great deal of noise energy.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Can you help me to understand how this is better than just the regular fan mount, based on how you have the pump mounted? I only ask because it appears the horizontal portion (below the actual pump) isn't being used to support the weight of the pump.


The EK vertical 120mm mount gives you the option of mounting a D5 parallel or perpendicular to your mounting surface be it the chassis wall or chassis floor.









I'm leaving that horizontal portion of the mount intact just in case I need to add some additional noise damping material.

BUT,

In a previous build I used the same EK vertical 120mm mount and cut it down to use only as a remaining flat base for a plexi XTOP.

pics are in previous post directly above.









I'm using quite a few great EK water parts in my S8 test bench platform upgrade. Moved from a Maximus V Extreme and 3770K to Maximus VIII Extreme and 6700K, swapped out the EK single bay res and plexi XTOP for the new XRES, and using an amazing and gorgeous EK M8E monoblock.

The 6700K is delidded by Siliconlottery.com and its a brilliantly binned at 4.8GHz.

Sorry if I'm rambling, today is build day number two so I'm right in the middle of everything, and got the Mayhems white coolant to look so good in the monoblock.









Should I use the EK 100 res tube or the 140 res tube guys? Its an open air case, so no top no sides, so no limit on the height of the res tube although the extra long size 400 would look a bit goofy.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases monoblock for GIGABYTE Z170X Ultra Gaming and UD3 Ultra motherboards


I feel obligated to switch from z97 even though performance is not an issue just to get a monoblock as z97 has literally next to no good options


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Can you help me to understand how this is better than just the regular fan mount, based on how you have the pump mounted? I only ask because it appears the horizontal portion (below the actual pump) isn't being used to support the weight of the pump.
> 
> 
> 
> The EK vertical 120mm mount gives you the option of mounting a D5 parallel or perpendicular to your mounting surface be it the chassis wall or chassis floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm leaving that horizontal portion of the mount intact just in case I need to add some additional noise damping material.
Click to expand...

Not knocking your decision, but so does the Uni bracket (since D5 can be mounted vertically or horizontally, and so can the Uni fan mount bracket.







) I understand the noise damping material option which is not something you'd get with the Uni bracket.


----------



## AllGamer

Can an *EK PE 240mm* rad/fan keep a GTX 1080 and i7 6700K cool (60C) *running stock* speed, no OC-ing ?

I want to upgrade my Home Theater PC rig, but it has very limited space for Rad

is mostly used for TV / Movies and the HTC Vive VR headset

If I recall properly stock temp for FAN air cooled temps are around 60C for both the CPU and 1080


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Can an *EK PE 240mm* rad/fan keep a GTX 1080 and i7 6700K cool (60C) *running stock* speed, no OC-ing ?
> 
> I want to upgrade my Home Theater PC rig, but it has very limited space for Rad
> 
> is mostly used for TV / Movies and the HTC Vive VR headset
> 
> If I recall properly stock temp for FAN air cooled temps are around 60C for both the CPU and 1080


Tdp for those two components is 245w. Should work with good fans. Xtremerigs has the 360mm version of that rad at 367.5w of heat disappation for a 10c water delta w/1850rpm fans in push. 367.5*.67=~246.2w for the 240mm pe rad.

Xtemerigs link http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/10/ek-pe-360-radiator-review/5/


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Tdp for those two components is 245w. Should work with good fans. Xtremerigs has the 360mm version of that rad at 367.5w of heat disappation for a 10c water delta w/1850rpm fans in push. 367.5*.67=~246.2w for the 240mm pe rad.
> 
> Xtemerigs link http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/10/ek-pe-360-radiator-review/5/


That's the problem, a 360mm will not fit in that case, only 240mm or smaller.

I could probably fit in an extra EK PE 120mm (to add up to 360mm) , in the space above the CPU,
or I could try to squeeze in an extra EK SE 240mm... if I can make enough space around the CPU area.

Worse case scenario, I was planning to setup 2x EK XE 360 outside as a stand alone unit, connected by soft tubes via the back plate., but that's only as the last resort.

I'm trying to pack everything I can into the case Thermatake DH 102


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm soooooo biting my tongue right now.









~Ceadder


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm soooooo biting my tongue right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Do say, don't need to hold it in.

I'm curious now. LOL


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm soooooo biting my tongue right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do say, don't need to hold it in.
> 
> I'm curious now. LOL
Click to expand...

Why in the Lord's name would you contemplate a Thermal#@!$!, and post it in the EK thread? Trying to salt the fresh wound or something?







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Tdp for those two components is 245w. Should work with good fans. Xtremerigs has the 360mm version of that rad at 367.5w of heat disappation for a 10c water delta w/1850rpm fans in push. 367.5*.67=~246.2w for the 240mm pe rad.
> 
> Xtemerigs link http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/10/ek-pe-360-radiator-review/5/
> 
> 
> 
> That's the problem, a 360mm will not fit in that case, only 240mm or smaller.
> 
> I could probably fit in an extra EK PE 120mm (to add up to 360mm) , in the space above the CPU,
> or I could try to squeeze in an extra EK SE 240mm... if I can make enough space around the CPU area.
> 
> Worse case scenario, I was planning to setup 2x EK XE 360 outside as a stand alone unit, connected by soft tubes via the back plate., but that's only as the last resort.
> 
> I'm trying to pack everything I can into the case Thermatake DH 102
Click to expand...

Silverstone has some very nice cases in that form factor and close to the same price range. They came out before the Thermaltake "version", and offer much better quality, plus the satisfaction of not being a ripoff. The price is not that different, although the Silverstone's do come in a bit higher, probably because they are better built and need to amortize R&D, instead of simple reverse engineering someone else's product and building it with cheaper materials and processes. If you can't afford it, build your own case, just don't give your money to those pirates at tt...

EDIT: I didn't realize you already have the case. Ooops!


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why in the Lord's name would you contemplate a Thermal#@!$!, and post it in the EK thread? Trying to salt the fresh wound or something?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's a very old case, pre-water cooling era, even AIO were no common back then.

but the case as a HTPC is serves it purpose extremely well, precisely why I went for that case at the time,
even today I've yet to find another case that can replace it, and serve well as a HTPC with built-in touch, deck, presets and volume, etc. full deck features.

The only challenge to keep using this case is wanting to keep it updated, while keeping it quiet.

New Video cards tend to be quite noisy when running Hot, never had problem with the CPU fan

For a HTPC ... is quite annoying to hear the sudden fan spin up / down during a movie, specially in a suspense movie, LOL









The existing old video cards can't handle well the VR, so I'm upgrading the whole rig with

ASUS MAXIMUS VIII GENE
i7-6700k
16GB Corsair Vengance
EK Monoblock for the Gene (EK-FB ASUS M8G Monoblock - Nickel)
MSI GTX 1080 FE with EK Block
EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi (incl. pump)
Small EK-RES X3 110

just a very simple loop, to run things quietly at stock speed.

The Rad space is the only thing that became an issue, since the case was not designed originally to house rads.

it has exact space for a 240mm, but after that, there's limited space on the top cover, which I might be able use for a EK PE 120mm or EK SE 240mm after some modifications.

the EK SE rad might be able to fit inside 26mm + 25mm
but if I use the EK PE rad, I might need to put the 25mm fan outside the case.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Silverstone has some very nice cases in that form factor and close to the same price range. They came out before the Thermaltake "version", and offer much better quality, plus the satisfaction of not being a ripoff. The price is not that different, although the Silverstone's do come in a bit higher, probably because they are better built and need to amortize R&D, instead of simple reverse engineering someone else's product and building it with cheaper materials and processes. If you can't afford it, build your own case, just don't give your money to those pirates at tt...
> 
> EDIT: I didn't realize you already have the case. Ooops!


no prob

When I went shopping for a HTPC case (many years back), I did also check out the Silverstones cases,
yes, they are indeed quite similar, even one of the higher end version of the Silverstone used the same Touch screen as the TT case I'm using,

but all of them internally; none of them were meant for Water Cooling, back then people didn't care much for WC, or never expected PC components to heat up so much. LOL








If you google up the Silverstone cases internals, they are also at most 240mm, with no much room for anything else, they are even more compact than the TT case I'm using.
As I was looking for a full size ATX HTPC case, this gave me a little bit extra room, but not enough for large 360mm rads, or double 240mm rads

Most of these HTPC cases are extinct, they are extremely rare to find _*NEW*_, most people have migrated in favor to mini ITX builds for HTPC needs.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Silverstone has some very nice cases in that form factor and close to the same price range. They came out before the Thermaltake "version", and offer much better quality, plus the satisfaction of not being a ripoff. The price is not that different, although the Silverstone's do come in a bit higher, probably because they are better built and need to amortize R&D, instead of simple reverse engineering someone else's product and building it with cheaper materials and processes. If you can't afford it, build your own case, just don't give your money to those pirates at tt...
> 
> EDIT: I didn't realize you already have the case. Ooops!
> 
> 
> 
> no prob
> 
> When I went shopping for a HTPC case (many years back), I did also check out the Silverstones cases,
> yes, they are indeed quite similar, even one of the higher end version of the Silverstone used the same Touch screen as the TT case I'm using,
> 
> but all of them internally; none of them were meant for Water Cooling, back then people didn't care much for WC, or never expected PC components to heat up so much. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you google up the Silverstone cases internals, they are also at most 240mm, with no much room for anything else, they are even more compact than the TT case I'm using.
> As I was looking for a full size ATX HTPC case, this gave me a little bit extra room, but not enough for large 360mm rads, or double 240mm rads
> 
> Most of these HTPC cases are extinct, they are extremely rare to find _*NEW*_, most people have migrated in favor to mini ITX builds for HTPC needs.
Click to expand...

That, and it's just a desktop sized rectangular case. Back in the 90's, all PCs were shaped like that (minus the radiator support, and all the other "goodies".) This whole concept of TT being "evil" is a little bit overblown. They do copy designs, that's for sure. But, customers are buying the stuff. What they're doing isn't copyright infringement. They aren't violating patents as far as I'm aware. I'm not saying they're 100% in the right, I'm saying...people are buying this stuff and they know what they're getting. A cheaper version of the thing they really want, in most cases.


----------



## Radnad

It's fine that we all have our opinions on how we feel about certain companies, but its also proper to let others have theirs please.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> It's fine that we all have our opinions on how we feel about certain companies, but its also proper to let others have theirs please.


LOL - that's what I'm doing. I'm having mine and you can have yours.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> You're getting some vibrational energy transmitting into your chassis? Are you using the newer EK super-soft ring dampers?
> 
> These?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5956_zpsxmrb3g2c.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> I took the same EK 120mm vertical UNI mount and cut it down as a support base for a D5 and EK plexi XTOP. Can see the mod stages in pics below.
> 
> I'm getting zero noise vibration into my S8S with the pump assembly resting on the chassis floor, its perfectly isolated and quiet to about 50% power from an A6.
> 
> I'm using the newer EK ring damper and (4) 1 inch diameter Sorbothane Hemispheres set at durometer 30. The Sorbo feet do absorb a great deal of noise energy.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hi iBruce. Yes sir I am using the dampening ring, I was very hopefull with that installed, but it has not really helped. Maybe a slightly higher RPM. Might try and source some of the Sorbothane feet and install the pump on the floor of the S8 instead and see how that goes


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Aren't your blocks looking a bit funky? See if EK will replace them under warranty, don't forget to mention you've used 25% antifreeze in your loop yet there is corrosion still happening despite all the stuff in it for corrosion.


New nickle part of the block arrived yesterday... EK had no problem with my choice in coolant.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Aren't your blocks looking a bit funky? See if EK will replace them under warranty, don't forget to mention you've used 25% antifreeze in your loop yet there is corrosion still happening despite all the stuff in it for corrosion.
> 
> 
> 
> New nickle part of the block arrived yesterday... EK had no problem with my choice in coolant.
Click to expand...

I have yet to see an official answer to my question asking if EK recommends antifreeze in their products. Not sure why it was ignored when so many other questions since then were answered with no problem. And a user post saying they had no problem with it isn't official in my book...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I have yet to see an official answer to my question asking if EK recommends antifreeze in their products. Not sure why it was ignored when so many other questions since then were answered with no problem. And a user post saying they had no problem with it isn't official in my book...


I know @fasttracker440 uses automotive coolant types with his EK blocks and has had zero issues over the years.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I have yet to see an official answer to my question asking if EK recommends antifreeze in their products. Not sure why it was ignored when so many other questions since then were answered with no problem. And a user post saying they had no problem with it isn't official in my book...
> 
> 
> 
> I know @fasttracker440 uses automotive coolant types with his EK blocks and has had zero issues over the years.
Click to expand...

That was never my original point that started the entire discussion, nor the question I asked EK.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I have yet to see an official answer to my question asking if EK recommends antifreeze in their products. Not sure why it was ignored when so many other questions since then were answered with no problem. And a user post saying they had no problem with it isn't official in my book...
> 
> 
> 
> I know @fasttracker440 uses automotive coolant types with his EK blocks and has had zero issues over the years.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That was never my original point that started the entire discussion, nor the question I asked EK.
Click to expand...

It's easy to answer this question. EKWB does not recommend antifreeze. They make no mention of antifreeze on their site, whatsoever.

You're asking if they recommend it, but if you mean "do they not support the use of antifreeze?" that's another question altogether.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I have yet to see an official answer to my question asking if EK recommends antifreeze in their products. Not sure why it was ignored when so many other questions since then were answered with no problem. And a user post saying they had no problem with it isn't official in my book...
> 
> 
> 
> I know @fasttracker440 uses automotive coolant types with his EK blocks and has had zero issues over the years.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That was never my original point that started the entire discussion, nor the question I asked EK.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It's easy to answer this question. EKWB does not recommend antifreeze. They make no mention of antifreeze on their site, whatsoever.
> 
> You're asking if they recommend it, but if you mean "do they not support the use of antifreeze?" that's another question altogether.
Click to expand...

Either way it was a pretty long argument that took place in this thread and EK has yet to take a stance on the question asked and letting users know what to expect from their products.


----------



## Ceadderman

This stymies me as well. If a rep could add their







it'd clear up a lot of questions on the matter.

Disposal is another thing altogether.









~Ceadder


----------



## smicha

*EK - this is the second time I bought bad ZMT tubing! It was supposed to be 15.9x9.5 and is 16.1 - this is too thick and I hardly can apply my fittings.

IS THIS REALLY SO HARD TO KEEP QUALITY CONTROL?!!!!!*


----------



## Mega Man

Well 1 All tubbing has minor variances.
And 2 if it is so easy, then it should be easy for you to start a buissness selling it right?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> *EK - this is the second time I bought bad ZMT tubing! It was supposed to be 15.9x9.5 and is 16.1 - this is too thick and I hardly can apply my fittings.
> 
> IS THIS REALLY SO HARD TO KEEP QUALITY CONTROL?!!!!!*


Just means it fits tight and less chace for a leak!


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Just means it fits tight and less chace for a leak!


That means it is not the product that is described on the box. 16.1 is not 15.9 and the difference makes fittings hard to be applied.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I have yet to see an official answer to my question asking if EK recommends antifreeze in their products.


'Antifreeze' is a fairly broad description - For instance I have used an automotive glycol coolant previously which was not recommended for sub zero temps, so not much of an antifreeze product in that particular case. I gather you mean a glycol based coolant of sorts?

EK-Ekoolant is a propylene glycol based coolant.

Ethylene glycol is safe for use with materials we commonly see utilised in our PC cooling setups. Some old school pseudo acrylic materials were susceptible to damage from glycols in the past (years ago) but these days all the mainstream manufacturers utilise true plexiglass acrylic which is not affected in any way.

Main difference between EG & PG is predominately the toxicity of EG Vs PG when ingested otherwise they are pretty harmless to your PC.

EKWB would probably never directly recommend other coolants simply due to the fact that they market their own which is fair enough. On the flip side you will not see EK not recommending a proven coolant either....


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> *EK - this is the second time I bought bad ZMT tubing! It was supposed to be 15.9x9.5 and is 16.1 - this is too thick and I hardly can apply my fittings.
> 
> IS THIS REALLY SO HARD TO KEEP QUALITY CONTROL?!!!!!*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> That means it is not the product that is described on the box. 16.1 is not 15.9 and the difference makes fittings hard to be applied.


No need to act like a child and type in all caps. Simple case of someone crying about .2 difference in tubing size, has nothing to do with QC. EK from what I've seen has always been helpful and willing to work with customers. Return it if it's a problem, coming here to act like that solves nothing.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> I finally got all my equipment bro. I am very very pleased.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Can an *EK PE 240mm* rad/fan keep a GTX 1080 and i7 6700K cool (60C) *running stock* speed, no OC-ing ?
> 
> I want to upgrade my Home Theater PC rig, but it has very limited space for Rad
> 
> is mostly used for TV / Movies and the HTC Vive VR headset
> 
> If I recall properly stock temp for FAN air cooled temps are around 60C for both the CPU and 1080


It should be fine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> EK - this is the second time I bought bad ZMT tubing! It was supposed to be 15.9x9.5 and is 16.1 - this is too thick and I hardly can apply my fittings.
> 
> IS THIS REALLY SO HARD TO KEEP QUALITY CONTROL?!!!!!


Which fittings are you using?


----------



## smicha

10/16 fittings - how come that last zmt fits perfectly well and now it is again too thick. You simply put 16.1 in a 15.9 box


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> 'Antifreeze' is a fairly broad description - For instance I have used an automotive glycol coolant previously which was not recommended for sub zero temps, so not much of an antifreeze product in that particular case. I gather you mean a glycol based coolant of sorts?
> 
> EK-Ekoolant is a propylene glycol based coolant.
> 
> Ethylene glycol is safe for use with materials we commonly see utilised in our PC cooling setups. Some old school pseudo acrylic materials were susceptible to damage from glycols in the past (years ago) but these days all the mainstream manufacturers utilise true plexiglass acrylic which is not affected in any way.
> 
> Main difference between EG & PG is predominately the toxicity of EG Vs PG when ingested otherwise they are pretty harmless to your PC.
> 
> EKWB would probably never directly recommend other coolants simply due to the fact that they market their own which is fair enough. On the flip side you will not see EK not recommending a proven coolant either....


Well said.
EK's premix coolant is Ethylene glycol based. The concentrates are propylene glycol.

Propylene glycol is in a lot of the foods/drinks you consume.


----------



## bigbite76

Does anyone know if the EK-UNI Vertical holder will work with the EK XRES 140 D5? Or if I can remove the pump from the XRES 140 D5 and install it in a EK-XTOP Revo D5?

I'm a bit constrained in where I'm wanting to put the Res/pump combo with the mount that it came with.


----------



## whitrzac

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical

this bracket?

I'm running the exact same setup without issue.


----------



## DrFreeman35

Any word on how the loop configuration tool is coming along? Curious to see when more cases will be added, also more options. @akira749


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> 10/16 fittings - how come that last zmt fits perfectly well and now it is again too thick. You simply put 16.1 in a 15.9 box


That would be within accepted manufacturing specifics


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> 10/16 fittings - how come that last zmt fits perfectly well and now it is again too thick. You simply put 16.1 in a 15.9 box


I should have been more specific....which brand of fittings are you using?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> Any word on how the loop configuration tool is coming along? Curious to see when more cases will be added, also more options. @akira749


Maybe @andrejEKWB knows a bit more about this


----------



## AllGamer

*@akira749* or anyone

What does this *10mm* reference actually means?
*EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 - Black Nickel*

is that 10mm *ID* or 10mm *OD* ?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@akira749* or anyone
> 
> What does this *10mm* reference actually means?
> *EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 - Black Nickel*
> 
> is that 10mm *ID* or 10mm *OD* ?


It's the internal diameter


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> 10/16 fittings - how come that last zmt fits perfectly well and now it is again too thick. You simply put 16.1 in a 15.9 box


Cup of boiling water, put tube end in water, let soften then put on fitting and tighten.

GG EZ

I do it with all my Advanced LRT tubing because without this trick its difficult to put a collar on a comp fitting.


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Cup of boiling water, put tube end in water, let soften then put on fitting and tighten.
> 
> GG EZ
> 
> I do it with all my Advanced LRT tubing because without this trick its difficult to put a collar on a comp fitting.


I'l give it a shot. But I am pretty sure EK messes with their tubing - they have 16.1 and 15.9. BTW I am on Barrow/BP fittings.


----------



## Kimir

It's no messes, it's within the manufacture tolerance margin.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> 10/16 fittings - how come that last zmt fits perfectly well and now it is again too thick. You simply put 16.1 in a 15.9 box
> 
> 
> 
> Cup of boiling water, put tube end in water, let soften then put on fitting and tighten.
> 
> GG EZ
> 
> I do it with all my Advanced LRT tubing because without this trick its difficult to put a collar on a comp fitting.
Click to expand...

I find just squeezing the end with my index finger and thumb and rolling it around for a few seconds does the same thing (at least for me.) I've never used boiling water, or any water really.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> 'Antifreeze' is a fairly broad description - For instance I have used an automotive glycol coolant previously which was not recommended for sub zero temps, so not much of an antifreeze product in that particular case. I gather you mean a glycol based coolant of sorts?
> 
> EK-Ekoolant is a propylene glycol based coolant.
> 
> Ethylene glycol is safe for use with materials we commonly see utilised in our PC cooling setups. Some old school pseudo acrylic materials were susceptible to damage from glycols in the past (years ago) but these days all the mainstream manufacturers utilise true plexiglass acrylic which is not affected in any way.
> 
> Main difference between EG & PG is predominately the toxicity of EG Vs PG when ingested otherwise they are pretty harmless to your PC.
> 
> EKWB would probably never directly recommend other coolants simply due to the fact that they market their own which is fair enough. On the flip side you will not see EK not recommending a proven coolant either....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well said.
> EK's premix coolant is Ethylene glycol based. The concentrates are propylene glycol.
> 
> Propylene glycol is in a lot of the foods/drinks you consume.
Click to expand...

also in many building boiler/chiller/ice rink loops, and fire systems, just for the sake of noting also used in ecigs/vapes but the kind ingested is not the same grade as the ones in pcs/buildings
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Cup of boiling water, put tube end in water, let soften then put on fitting and tighten.
> 
> GG EZ
> 
> I do it with all my Advanced LRT tubing because without this trick its difficult to put a collar on a comp fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> I'l give it a shot. But I am pretty sure EK messes with their tubing - they have 16.1 and 15.9. BTW I am on Barrow/BP fittings.
Click to expand...

barrow is not BP. which is it ?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I find just squeezing the end with my index finger and thumb and rolling it around for a few seconds does the same thing (at least for me.) I've never used boiling water, or any water really.


Maybe you just run on a hotter body temp that the average human























part j/k part serious

People with high metabolism usually runs higher temp even when idle, I'm one of those, and so is another coworker or mine. My son is the same.

I'll eat big giant servings of pasta and then be hungry again in 30 min


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I find just squeezing the end with my index finger and thumb and rolling it around for a few seconds does the same thing (at least for me.) I've never used boiling water, or any water really.


With primochill advanced LRT tubing? I'd be surprised if that works with that tubing as it's incredibly stiff lol.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's the internal diameter


Thanks...

hmm.. the PETG tubes i'm ordering are 12mm ID/16mm OD, fittings are the EK HDC 16OD... which then connects to those 90 degree fittings, I'm guessing those are also 10mm ID?

will there be any problem if I mix 12mm ID with 10mm ID in the same loop?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> 'Antifreeze' is a fairly broad description - For instance I have used an automotive glycol coolant previously which was not recommended for sub zero temps, so not much of an antifreeze product in that particular case. I gather you mean a glycol based coolant of sorts?
> 
> EK-Ekoolant is a propylene glycol based coolant.
> 
> Ethylene glycol is safe for use with materials we commonly see utilised in our PC cooling setups. Some old school pseudo acrylic materials were susceptible to damage from glycols in the past (years ago) but these days all the mainstream manufacturers utilise true plexiglass acrylic which is not affected in any way.
> 
> Main difference between EG & PG is predominately the toxicity of EG Vs PG when ingested otherwise they are pretty harmless to your PC.
> 
> EKWB would probably never directly recommend other coolants simply due to the fact that they market their own which is fair enough. On the flip side you will not see EK not recommending a proven coolant either....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well said.
> EK's premix coolant is Ethylene glycol based. The concentrates are propylene glycol.
> 
> Propylene glycol is in a lot of the foods/drinks you consume.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> also in many building boiler/chiller/ice rink loops, and fire systems, just for the sake of noting also used in ecigs/vapes but the kind ingested is not the same grade as the ones in pcs/buildings
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Cup of boiling water, put tube end in water, let soften then put on fitting and tighten.
> 
> GG EZ
> 
> I do it with all my Advanced LRT tubing because without this trick its difficult to put a collar on a comp fitting.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'l give it a shot. But I am pretty sure EK messes with their tubing - they have 16.1 and 15.9. BTW I am on Barrow/BP fittings.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> barrow is not BP. which is it ?
Click to expand...

Likely both. But I concur.









So this now is beginning to make sense as to why the ZMT tubing is fail for him. Using cheap fittings mixed with Premium fittings and the tolerances are varying to one degree or other.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

shhh. stop telling the truth , you must be sexist or racist or something......


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> shhh. stop telling the truth , you must be sexist or racist or something......


Hahaha, as long as my argumentative 15yo doesn't go there, I'm a straight up individual. Even then I'll be straight up. Funny how I didn't see something I know I did, where she's concerned. Like she's fooling me. She thinks she's Jedi.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I find just squeezing the end with my index finger and thumb and rolling it around for a few seconds does the same thing (at least for me.) I've never used boiling water, or any water really.
> 
> 
> 
> With primochill advanced LRT tubing? I'd be surprised if that works with that tubing as it's incredibly stiff lol.
Click to expand...

Yes.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I find just squeezing the end with my index finger and thumb and rolling it around for a few seconds does the same thing (at least for me.) I've never used boiling water, or any water really.
> 
> 
> 
> With primochill advanced LRT tubing? I'd be surprised if that works with that tubing as it's incredibly stiff lol.
Click to expand...

sticking in and rolling around my pinky finger has saved me plenty of frustration.









edit:
sorry i am off the mark - i am meaning to get the tube on a barb of a CF.


----------



## AllGamer

LOL







you guys...


----------



## looniam

i didn't mean . . . .but yeah, also that.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I find just squeezing the end with my index finger and thumb and rolling it around for a few seconds does the same thing (at least for me.) I've never used boiling water, or any water really.
> 
> 
> 
> With primochill advanced LRT tubing? I'd be surprised if that works with that tubing as it's incredibly stiff lol.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> sticking in and rolling around my pinky finger has saved me plenty of frustration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> sorry i am off the mark - i am meaning to get the tube on a barb of a CF.
Click to expand...

Mine won't fit.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Something seems a tad odd on the EK webstore... If you go to the AIO section, there's only the 140mm and 280mm Predators...... 240mm and 360mm ones are nowhere to be found. Weird thing is the push/pull kits are there for the 240/360's, but if you click those and then try to follow the links through to the actual Predators you get an error screen.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Thanks...
> 
> hmm.. the PETG tubes i'm ordering are 12mm ID/16mm OD, fittings are the EK HDC 16OD... which then connects to those 90 degree fittings, I'm guessing those are also 10mm ID?
> 
> will there be any problem if I mix 12mm ID with 10mm ID in the same loop?


No problem at all. A lot of people use 16mm fittings with angled adapters. The ID difference isn't big enough to create noticable restriction.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Something seems a tad odd on the EK webstore... If you go to the AIO section, there's only the 140mm and 280mm Predators...... 240mm and 360mm ones are nowhere to be found. Weird thing is the push/pull kits are there for the 240/360's, but if you click those and then try to follow the links through to the actual Predators you get an error screen.


They will be back on Monday


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Something seems a tad odd on the EK webstore... If you go to the AIO section, there's only the 140mm and 280mm Predators...... 240mm and 360mm ones are nowhere to be found. Weird thing is the push/pull kits are there for the 240/360's, but if you click those and then try to follow the links through to the actual Predators you get an error screen.


I'm kind of scratching my head at the utility of the 140mm with QDC.


----------



## TTheuns

Any word out on a monoblock for the Gigabyte X99 Ultra Gaming? I know it's still being looked at, but maybe there's some certainty that it will be made, but can't be put in the configurator yet.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Tore down the Define Nano S build and started to put the m8 back together, glad I went with the Supremacy MX block so I can use it on 115*/2011 sockets


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I'm kind of scratching my head at the utility of the 140mm with QDC.


I think it's to help making the expansion of the loop easier in the possible future.


----------



## smicha

So I did measurements on previous ZMT I received and fresh new. The difference in thickness is above 0.5mm, which is a lot. Don't get me wrong - I really like EK, even moved from AQ for current 7 gpu build and dual Xeons - all EK waterblocks but please produce 15.9mm tubing, not 16.5












new


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> So I did measurements on previous ZMT I received and fresh new. The difference in thickness is above 0.5mm, which is a lot. Don't get me wrong - I really like EK, even moved from AQ for current 7 gpu build and dual Xeons - all EK waterblocks but please produce 15.9mm tubing, not 16.5


you sure you got the same tubing? Considering they manufacture a size that is .2mm different, you probably got the 16.1 on accident this time and 15.9 last time
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-16-1-11-1mm
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-15-9-9-5mm
edit: take some ID measurements and they would be quite different if that is the case


----------



## smicha

On the box it is clearly 15.9. this is the second time I got too thick tubing.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> On the box it is clearly 15.9. this is the second time I got too thick tubing.


have you written them a support ticket? perhaps they'll send you some proper 15.9mm free.
That does suck though man


----------



## superstition222

Any idea what would cause the 360mm PE radiator in my LC 2.0 kit to leak at all four corners? I have a PE 480 radiator that I added and it doesn't leak at all.


----------



## Ceadderman

Could be you overtightened the mounting screws and they've all pinched the tubes.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Any idea what would cause the 360mm PE radiator in my LC 2.0 kit to leak at all four corners? I have a PE 480 radiator that I added and it doesn't leak at all.


Please contact our official support and provide photos of the situation.
http://ekwb.com/support

Sorry about the trouble


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Could be you overtightened the mounting screws and they've all pinched the tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I thought the radiator was designed to prevent tube damage from the screws.

edit: I just looked at the radiator again. The screw holes aren't at the corners where the leaks are. The leakage is coming from under the shroud - when I fill it with some water and tilt the radiator with one of the corners pointed down. The screw holes are quite a bit toward the center of the radiator and there isn't damage to the tubes there or water leaking from that area. I dried the tubing/fins before testing.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Any word out on a monoblock for the Gigabyte X99 Ultra Gaming? I know it's still being looked at, but maybe there's some certainty that it will be made, but can't be put in the configurator yet.


No recent news. I will try to have an update on the ETA.


----------



## AllGamer

*@akira749* or anyone that knows

Are the inner threads of the *EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP* also G1/4 or are they of a different size?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@akira749* or anyone that knows
> 
> Are the inner threads of the *EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP* also G1/4 or are they of a different size?


I asked about that not long ago . . . . as they look a lot like G3/8

Turns out, iirc, that they are M16


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I asked about that not long ago . . . . as they look a lot like G3/8
> 
> Turns out, iirc, that they are M16


Thanks Diva!

yeah, I was trying to find some fittings for it, to make something fun with the water flow


----------



## Radmanhs

just got my ek waterblocks. I'm assuming after looking at the instructions I can't reinstall the stock backplate that came with my asus 1080 stix with the block?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Not sure if this has been discussed before. I have EK-XRES 140 D5 res/pump combo, the older "boxy" one, not the REVO one:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-d5-pwm-incl-pump

It is EOL now. Does anyone know if there are replacement reservoir tubes available for it? There are X3 ones but not sure if they're compatible. Thinking of replacing mine, same size or maybe a taller one.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Not sure if this has been discussed before. I have EK-XRES 140 D5 res/pump combo, the older "boxy" one, not the REVO one:
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-d5-pwm-incl-pump
> 
> It is EOL now. Does anyone know if there are replacement reservoir tubes available for it? There are X3 ones but not sure if they're compatible. Thinking of replacing mine, same size or maybe a taller one.


I have one of those pump/res combos and used one of these taller tubes no problem
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-tube-250-204mm


----------



## superstition222

EK rep, can you tell me what thickness I should use for a thermal pad for your water block for the ASUS 990FX Crosshair V Formula-Z board? The block I got from Ebay, since they aren't for sale anymore new, didn't come with a pad. I am looking at the Fujipoly pads, especially the top two performers they offer. Some have said the top one is too rigid. Should I use that one or the next step down?

Thanks.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> EK rep, can you tell me what thickness I should use for a thermal pad for your water block for the ASUS 990FX Crosshair V Formula-Z board? The block I got from Ebay, since they aren't for sale anymore new, didn't come with a pad. I am looking at the Fujipoly pads, especially the top two performers they offer. Some have said the top one is too rigid. Should I use that one or the next step down?
> 
> Thanks.


Quote:


> Replacement thermal pads @ EKWB web shop:
> Thermal PAD A 0,5mm - (100x16mm) [EAN: 3830046996619]


Source


----------



## W8lifts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just got my ek waterblocks. I'm assuming after looking at the instructions I can't reinstall the stock backplate that came with my asus 1080 stix with the block?


I did on mine 1080 FE version, I just had to open up the holes a tad bigger and painted it as well


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Source


Thanks. Hopefully the stiffness of the high-end Fujipoly pad won't be an issue.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Thanks. Hopefully the stiffness of the high-end Fujipoly pad won't be an issue.


Wouldn't know, I just used phobya pads on my sabertooth and it runs up to 1.7v fine so. *shrug*


----------



## superstition222

The other issue is that it looks like the standard size, which Fujipoly uses, is 100 x 15 not 100 x 16 which the EK pad is.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> The other issue is that it looks like the standard size, which Fujipoly uses, is 100 x 15 not 100 x 16 which the EK pad is.


Yeah I had a similar issue with the phobya pads, not sure what I did with the spare pad left over tbh.


----------



## superstition222

Hopefully 1mm along the edge won't be an issue given the rigidity of the pad and its higher thermal conductivity.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Hopefully 1mm along the edge won't be an issue given the rigidity of the pad and its higher thermal conductivity.


Not sure, normally best to have a bit more for when it starts to warp under pressure.


----------



## dervladimir

_PS: many nikel EK-parts was painted.
PSS: some 90° began to flow, so I had to simplify the circuit._


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@akira749* or anyone that knows
> 
> Are the inner threads of the *EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP* also G1/4 or are they of a different size?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


@ITDiva is right. M16x1.5









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just got my ek waterblocks. I'm assuming after looking at the instructions I can't reinstall the stock backplate that came with my asus 1080 stix with the block?


It can be done but requires modifications on the backplate.


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/4upbqx/asus_strix_water_cooling_with_original_backplate/%5B/URL

Not sure if this has been discussed before. I have EK-XRES 140 D5 res/pump combo, the older "boxy" one, not the REVO one:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-d5-pwm-incl-pump

It is EOL now. Does anyone know if there are replacement reservoir tubes available for it? There are X3 ones but not sure if they're compatible. Thinking of replacing mine, same size or maybe a taller one.[/QUOTE]

Like @Barefooter said, any EK-RES X3 Res tube can be used with your pump/res combo.


----------



## smicha

EK MADNESS - STAY TUNED FOR MORE


----------



## AllGamer

*@akira749* or anyone

Can some one confirm if it's safe to use EK-Ekoolant EVO any color (concentrate 100mL) with PETG tubing?

--- EDIT ---

NVM found answer already, it's not good, need to find another liquid that is PETG friendly


----------



## greytoad

I ordered a 2nd RX480 but will first take my full cover ek block off of my existing one and put it one the replacement while I RMA the first one for a video memory issue. I ordered https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HQB1M2K/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Now the thing is, the model number listed I noticed afterwards is RX480-8 instead of the 90YV09Z0-U0NA00 listed in the EK configuration tool. As far as I know a reference rx480 is a reference rx480. Anyone here know if it will work? I still have time to cancel.

edit: also will there ever be a nickle back plate available? I've been waiting several months.

Asus's web page has their reference card model listed as RX480-8G. Now I'm really confused. It looks reference. All the reference cards are the same as far as I know. Anyone?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@akira749* or anyone
> 
> Can some one confirm if it's safe to use EK-Ekoolant EVO any color (concentrate 100mL) with PETG tubing?
> 
> --- EDIT ---
> 
> NVM found answer already, it's not good, need to find another liquid that is PETG friendly


Mayhem's x1 is good and also petg safe. Should be available in similar colors too


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Mayhem's x1 is good and also petg safe. Should be available in similar colors too


yup, and also PrimoChill and Koolance liquids.

I went with PrimoChill True™ Infused series, as it had the widest selection of colours
ok NVM, seems like most people are suggestion X1... I guess I'll change the order to Mayhem X1 series


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> yup, and also PrimoChill and Koolance liquids.
> 
> I went with PrimoChill True™ Infused series, as it had the widest selection of colours
> ok NVM, seems like most people are suggestion X1... I guess I'll change the order to Mayhem X1 series


Good call I think







I had the UV blue and UV green, the green was insanely bold/bright and impressive. The blue was fine, but seemed to have way less color and depth


----------



## AllGamer

@akira749

Hey i just found this on the GTX 1080 section

Is there no official announcement from you guys?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greytoad*
> 
> I ordered a 2nd RX480 but will first take my full cover ek block off of my existing one and put it one the replacement while I RMA the first one for a video memory issue. I ordered https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HQB1M2K/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Now the thing is, the model number listed I noticed afterwards is RX480-8 instead of the 90YV09Z0-U0NA00 listed in the EK configuration tool. As far as I know a reference rx480 is a reference rx480. Anyone here know if it will work? I still have time to cancel.
> 
> edit: also will there ever be a nickle back plate available? I've been waiting several months.
> 
> Asus's web page has their reference card model listed as RX480-8G. Now I'm really confused. It looks reference. All the reference cards are the same as far as I know. Anyone?


You can use the RX480 block with your card.









I will ask about the nickel backplate for the RX480.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> Hey i just found this on the GTX 1080 section
> 
> Is there no official announcement from you guys?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's coming


----------



## akira749

Limited Edition MSI GeForce GTX 1080 30th Anniversary graphics card


----------



## Alastair

Hi guys. I just wanted to pop in with a quickie. I am currently using an XSPC 750 V4 pump/res in my system. I figured a good way to upgrade the performance of the loop would be to buy a more powerful pump instead of buying thicker and denser rads. So I am stuck between 2. I am looking at the EK XRES pump/res combos. So either the D5 or the DDC3.2. Which is the better pump? I am running two GPU's in parallel, a CPU and two rads.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Hi guys. I just wanted to pop in with a quickie. I am currently using an XSPC 750 V4 pump/res in my system. I figured a good way to upgrade the performance of the loop would be to buy a more powerful pump instead of buying thicker and denser rads. So I am stuck between 2. I am looking at the EK XRES pump/res combos. So either the D5 or the DDC3.2. Which is the better pump? I am running two GPU's in parallel, a CPU and two rads.


DDC runs way hotter, but are generally more powerful than D5,
D5 are for high flow, but they are less powerful

If you have small loop, a D5 should be fine, but if you have a comprex restrictive loop then a DDC, or maybe several D5 in series.

definition of _*restrictive*_.... a lot of radiators (more than 2), GPU in SLI / Crossfire, CPU, VRM, and a lot of those 90° bends, specially if you are using a lot of fittings.

a simple loop would be 1 GPU, CPU, 2 Rads, and simple tubing with not too many 90° fittings.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *DDC runs way hotter, but are generally more powerful than D5,
> D5 are for high flow, but they are less powerful*
> 
> If you have small loop, a D5 should be fine, but if you have a comprex restrictive loop then a DDC, or maybe several D5 in series.
> 
> definition of _*restrictive*_.... a lot of radiators (more than 2), GPU in SLI / Crossfire, CPU, VRM, and a lot of those 90° bends, specially if you are using a lot of fittings.
> 
> a simple loop would be 1 GPU, CPU, 2 Rads, and simple tubing with not too many 90° fittings.


Not sure that's entirely true there









DDC work better in restrictive loops. Period.

To say that a D5 is less powerfull... uh...

TCO


----------



## Darkstar757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Not sure that's entirely true there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DDC work better in restrictive loops. Period.
> 
> To say that a D5 is less powerfull... uh...
> 
> TCO


Crap I didnt know that. I wonder now should I have gotten DDC over my D5. My Temps are not bad but I do wonder would they be much lower with DDC. I have two rads, sli titan xp, 6950x cpu.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> Crap I didnt know that. I wonder now should I have gotten DDC over my D5. My Temps are not bad but I do wonder would they be much lower with DDC. I have two rads, sli titan xp, 6950x cpu.


GPU Blocks are the most restrictive from what I remember reading. Things in SLI etc.. Certain rads are more restrictive than others of Course.

I use DDC's due to the small size.







I also appreciate the Aesthetics of them More than the D5's

TCO


----------



## Darkstar757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> GPU Blocks are the most restrictive from what I remember reading. Things in SLI etc.. Certain rads are more restrictive than others of Course.
> 
> I use DDC's due to the small size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also appreciate the Aesthetics of them More than the D5's
> 
> TCO


Sighes now I wonder is it worth undoing my loop to add this pump.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Not sure that's entirely true there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DDC work better in restrictive loops. Period.
> 
> To say that a D5 is less powerfull... uh...
> 
> TCO


I should have been more specific regarding the powerful part, was in regards to _*Compression*_, or basically the impeller type DDC is more of a real Pump, similar concept to the fish tank pumps, D5 method is more like centrifugal force to swing the water around to keep it moving

That's why one is Power and the other is High Flow

DDC = Raw Power
D5 = High water flow

reason why most people Default to D5 is for the high water flow, fast stream.

Oh! and the other thing is:

DDC = more noise
D5 = more quiet

That's another reason why people will by default recommend D5


----------



## Alastair

So for a dual GPU, dual radiator and CPU loop go for the DDC? Im simply looking for the best bang for buck. Best flow rate at my given restriction level.

My GPU blocks are EK-FC FuryX blocks. There are two. But I have a parallel bridge on them.
CPU is an XSPC Raystorm block.
EX280 and EX360 rads (soon to be a PE360 and CE280)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> So for a dual GPU, dual radiator and CPU loop go for the DDC? Im simply looking for the best bang for buck. Best flow rate at my given restriction level.
> 
> My GPU blocks are EK-FC FuryX blocks. There are two. But I have a parallel bridge on them.
> CPU is an XSPC Raystorm block.
> EX280 and EX360 rads (soon to be a PE360 and CE280)


Take a look here and tell me after you read about each pump what you're opinion on each?

For me to tell you one or the other, I would be lying.

I have 1 DDC running throught a 480mm Rad a 240mm Rad, and Through 2 GPU blocks. My Other Loop is the same, 480mm and 240mm with CPU BLOCK all by One DDC.



TCO


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> So for a dual GPU, dual radiator and CPU loop go for the DDC? Im simply looking for the best bang for buck. Best flow rate at my given restriction level.
> 
> My GPU blocks are EK-FC FuryX blocks. There are two. But I have a parallel bridge on them.
> CPU is an XSPC Raystorm block.
> EX280 and EX360 rads (soon to be a PE360 and CE280)


I think your way overthinking it. Restriction is a minor concern with most of today's water cooling stuff.. If your deciding between DDC and D5 and I think almost everyone would tell you get the D5 and call it a day. I've seen loops with far more components with yours run just fine by both pumps (even a DCP 4.0 could run that although most people would cringe at that), but the D5 is considered cream of the crop and I don't think anyone has ever gone wrong with it in recent years.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


uhhh! nice color combination









very refreshing


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> GPU Blocks are the most restrictive from what I remember reading. Things in SLI etc.. Certain rads are more restrictive than others of Course.
> 
> I use DDC's due to the small size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also appreciate the Aesthetics of them More than the D5's
> 
> TCO


Also it depends on if you are running serial or parallel for your sli gpus. I ran parallel to be less restrictive.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I think your way overthinking it. Restriction is a minor concern with most of today's water cooling stuff.. If your deciding between DDC and D5 and I think almost everyone would tell you get the D5 and call it a day. I've seen loops with far more components with yours run just fine by both pumps (even a DCP 4.0 could run that although most people would cringe at that), but the D5 is considered cream of the crop and I don't think anyone has ever gone wrong with it in recent years.


yup.

and it gets additional +++ points for being quiet (relatively) and high flow

if you ever find the D5 under performing, just add an extra D5 in series.

D5 are relatively low profile compared to DDC + heat sink

that's the annoying thing about DDC, it requires a heat sink, and that means, you need to place it some where with good ventilation to take off the heat.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Also it depends on if you are running *serial or parallel* for your sli gpus. I ran parallel to be less restrictive.


And yet another element in the equation of what is better for a certain persons loop.









Good Point and thank you for bringing it up









TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well looks like my loop sprung a leak, need to pressure test my Supremacy MX block to see if it was the culprit or my EK fittings. Just glad I have an air-cooler that I won from ProClockers Summer Give-Away a week ago. Also glad I was sitting next to the machine when it started (dripping from the inlet on the block)


----------



## Alastair

The fact it needs a heatsink might make me shy away from the DDC.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well looks like my loop sprung a leak, need to pressure test my Supremacy MX block to see if it was the culprit or my EK fittings. Just glad I have an air-cooler that I won from ProClockers Summer Give-Away a week ago. Also glad I was sitting next to the machine when it started (dripping from the inlet on the block)


Now that's good luck that it happened when you were there.

I run my rigs 24/7... and that's precisely what I'm always concerned about with Water cooled rigs.

How can a perfectly working loop, suddenly start to leak?

Heat damaging the O rings?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> The fact it needs a heatsink might make me shy away from the DDC.


aye, my sentiments exactly

same reason why I went for 2x D5 instead.


----------



## Alastair

So I will get a single XRES revo D5. Thanks for the assist guys. I am also hoping to replace my EX rads with coolstream PE360 and CE280 as well.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> So I will get a single XRES revo D5. Thanks for the assist guys. I am also hoping to replace my EX rads with coolstream PE360 and CE280 as well.


Good Deal









TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Now that's good luck that it happened when you were there.
> 
> I run my rigs 24/7... and that's precisely what I'm always concerned about with Water cooled rigs.
> 
> How can a perfectly working loop, suddenly start to leak?
> 
> Heat damaging the O rings?


It was running fine since Sat/Sun, thinking it could be a bad o-ring in the rotary section of one of the angle fittings but I did swap angled fittings and there was still a leak. So I was going to setup a temp loop with my pond pump and see if it still leaks at the block (going to use my barb fittings that I know don't leak)


----------



## Kenjiwing

EVGA FTW GTX1080 preorders.. should we expect shipping info today?


----------



## JunkStar

Hey EK? I kinda fingured that the EVGA FTW block was in stock when you sent the first email... Also, i already have it on pre-order


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> The fact it needs a heatsink might make me shy away from the DDC.
> 
> 
> 
> aye, my sentiments exactly
> 
> same reason why I went for 2x D5 instead.
Click to expand...

That's not to say that D5s don't produce heat too. It's just that D5s dump their heat into the coolant they're pumping. But it's not so much that you would notice.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ugggh!









Look, here is all you need to know about the differences between D5 and DDC.

DDC have better head pressure. This is fact. Head pressure is measured by how high a pump can spit water straight into the air.

D5 have better flow rates. This is measured in LPM testing.

DDC rely on airflow to cool them. If you put it in an airflow restricted area they tend to overheat. Which is why heatsinks are manufactured for them.

D5 dump their heat into the coolant as it passes through its impeller. Which is why D5 has dress up kits available. No worries of heat buildup in a metal cup surrounding the body of the D5.

They both have PWM. But D5 pumps are available with a speed switch. Those are the Vario model and there are D5 with controller sockets that require a Controller to control its speed but I won't get into that out of respect for the club.

Essentially the real difference between the two is getting a pump that will best fit your particular needs. Space constraints? DDC.

No concerns? Whichever you prefer. They both work well and they're both tried and true performers.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> Sighes now I wonder is it worth undoing my loop to add this pump.


Either one will be fine in your situation. I would be shocked if you see any difference in temps going from one to the other. Make your decision based off looks here


----------



## looniam

just wanna say thanks for the pump talk folks.









that is all.


----------



## DarkIdeals

So i just had one of the four springs for the mounting hardware on my Supremacy EVO disappear into thin air. Can't find any info on where to find this damn spring at; nobody has the EVO mounting kits in stock except EK and they take forever to ship (around a week) to the US.

All i can find is this set here at PPCS

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-cpu-ezmount-ltx-lga2011-add-on-nickel.html

Does anyone know if this set will work on a Supremacy EVO? I don't care about the mounting posts, just whether the springs will work to replace the one i lost.

Or does anyone know what specific spring is used here? Like is there an amazon link or something to buy just a bag of these specific springs or something?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> So i just had one of the four springs for the mounting hardware on my Supremacy EVO disappear into thin air. Can't find any info on where to find this damn spring at; nobody has the EVO mounting kits in stock except EK and they take forever to ship (around a week) to the US.
> 
> All i can find is this set here at PPCS
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-cpu-ezmount-ltx-lga2011-add-on-nickel.html
> 
> Does anyone know if this set will work on a Supremacy EVO? I don't care about the mounting posts, just whether the springs will work to replace the one i lost.
> 
> Or does anyone know what specific spring is used here? Like is there an amazon link or something to buy just a bag of these specific springs or something?


Take one of the other springs to a hardware store, you should be able to find something very close.


----------



## DarkIdeals

So i just noticed that i can still tighten the fourth threaded cap onto the post without a spring; is it thermally alright to tighten the three springs i have and just tighten down the fourth cap carefully with no spring at least for a day or two till i can get a new spring?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> just wanna say thanks for the pump talk folks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that is all.


Anytime!

TCO


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> So i just noticed that i can still tighten the fourth threaded cap onto the post without a spring; is it thermally alright to tighten the three springs i have and just tighten down the fourth cap carefully with no spring at least for a day or two till i can get a new spring?


The springs are there to prevent people from Over tightening it, so as long as you are careful, and don't squash the CPU die into bits... (don't ask, it did happen to me







) then you should be fine.

The Intel chip might look solid, but you can accidentally chip the edges if you are not careful


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> So i just noticed that i can still tighten the fourth threaded cap onto the post without a spring; is it thermally alright to tighten the three springs i have and just tighten down the fourth cap carefully with no spring at least for a day or two till i can get a new spring?
> 
> 
> 
> The springs are there to prevent people from Over tightening it, so as long as you are careful, and don't squash the CPU die into bits... (don't ask, it did happen to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) then you should be fine.
> 
> The Intel chip might look solid, but you can accidentally chip the edges if you are not careful
Click to expand...

Actually the springs are what is putting pressure down on the block to the CPU. The block is somewhat convex and you need pressure on all four corners for the block to seat properly. I would not recommend installing without all springs. Also, your supposed to tighten the nuts until they stop so there really isn't a way to overtighten them.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Actually the springs are what is putting pressure down on the block to the CPU. The block is somewhat convex and you need pressure on all four corners for the block to seat properly. I would not recommend installing without all springs. Also, your supposed to tighten the nuts until they stop so there really isn't a way to overtighten them.


LOL







my bad, i always assumed it was the opposite


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well looks like my loop sprung a leak, need to pressure test my Supremacy MX block to see if it was the culprit or my EK fittings. Just glad I have an air-cooler that I won from ProClockers Summer Give-Away a week ago. Also glad I was sitting next to the machine when it started (dripping from the inlet on the block)


Damn









Do you have a picture of the leak?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> So i just had one of the four springs for the mounting hardware on my Supremacy EVO disappear into thin air. Can't find any info on where to find this damn spring at; nobody has the EVO mounting kits in stock except EK and they take forever to ship (around a week) to the US.
> 
> All i can find is this set here at PPCS
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-cpu-ezmount-ltx-lga2011-add-on-nickel.html
> 
> Does anyone know if this set will work on a Supremacy EVO? I don't care about the mounting posts, just whether the springs will work to replace the one i lost.
> 
> Or does anyone know what specific spring is used here? Like is there an amazon link or something to buy just a bag of these specific springs or something?


Yes you can use the springs of this kit.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Damn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a picture of the leak?
> Yes you can use the springs of this kit.


Thanks. Gonna see if i can find one of these springs at a hardware store; do you know if there's a specific measurement or name for these springs? if i can't find them there i'll have to wait a couple days for PPCS to ship this kit. Real sad that i have to pay $32 for some springs lol. $3.99 for the item and i pay $25 shipping...ugh. This is why i love prime shipping.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Damn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a picture of the leak?
> Yes you can use the springs of this kit.


I can take photos of it when I get home from work, looks like it somehow got around the inner gasket/o-ring on the base plate. Can Evo tops be used with the MX's?

Again I'm just glad I was sitting at my desk reflagging the bios when it started, and thankful I have an air cooler to get me by since this is my OCN [email protected] TC rig

As it sits right now


----------



## AllGamer

too much glare and reflection, can't really see much except for the giant air cooler enermax in the center


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I can take photos of it when I get home from work, looks like it somehow got around the inner gasket/o-ring on the base plate. Can Evo tops be used with the MX's?
> 
> Again I'm just glad I was sitting at my desk reflagging the bios when it started, and thankful I have an air cooler to get me by since this is my OCN [email protected] TC rig
> As it sits right now


sorry you're having trouble bro... the EVO tops can be used with the mx base, it's what I'm currently using. They also sell replacement o rings for the block fyi


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'll probably just order a new top and o-ring just to nix any chance it is either.
Also the air cooler is what I'm running for now (still have the tubing run just emptied and tied off out of the way till I can afford to get the block fixed)


----------



## AllGamer

Theoretical question

What generates more heat?

two GTX 1080 in SLI?
vs.
i7 6700K + VRM ?

My setup is basically 2 loops,
i'm planning to dedicate *3x 360mm* Rads to the hottest items,
and then *2x 360mm + 1x 240mm* for the not so hot items


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Theoretical question
> 
> What generates more heat?
> 
> two GTX 1080 in SLI?
> vs.
> i7 6700K + VRM ?
> 
> My setup is basically 2 loops,
> i'm planning to dedicate *3x 360mm* Rads to the hottest items,
> and then *2x 360mm + 1x 240mm* for the not so hot items


i7 Overclocked to What?

TCO

Here is link to TomsHardware 1080 powerconsumption test.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> i7 Overclocked to What?
> 
> TCO
> 
> Here is link to TomsHardware 1080 powerconsumption test.


No OC, just stock, to keep things simple.

I don't usually OC for long, only for benchmarks, then return them back to stock, as I run my rigs 24/7

Based on Toms review for power then each GTX 1080 is aprox 176W x2 = 352W for SLI

... and according to this http://techreport.com/review/28751/intel-core-i7-6700k-skylake-processor-reviewed/5

then the i7 6700K is about 113W,

hmm... and if I'm reading this right http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/gigabyte-z170x-gaming-g1-review,12.html

then the motherboard is aprox 126W

that's aprox 239W for CPU + VRM if i got those numbers right


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> No OC, just stock, to keep things simple.
> 
> I don't usually OC for long, only for benchmarks, then return them back to stock, as I run my rigs 24/7
> 
> Based on Toms review for power then each GTX 1080 is aprox 176W x2 = 352W for SLI
> 
> ... and according to this http://techreport.com/review/28751/intel-core-i7-6700k-skylake-processor-reviewed/5
> 
> then the i7 6700K is about 113W,
> 
> hmm... and if I'm reading this right http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/gigabyte-z170x-gaming-g1-review,12.html
> 
> then the motherboard is aprox 126W
> 
> that's aprox 239W for CPU + VRM if i got those numbers right


Then I feel without a doubt that the 1080s will produce more wattage/heat.

TDP of the Processor is 91w.

TCO


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Then I feel without a doubt that the 1080s will produce more wattage/heat.
> 
> TDP of the Processor is 91w.
> 
> TCO


Thanks!

I had a hunch about the GPU being the hottest items, as they usually are. but just wanted to confirm.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I had a hunch about the GPU being the hottest items, as they usually are. but just wanted to confirm.


I can certainly second that.

I have a 4770K at 1.39V 4.5Ghz(Yes I know, its a turd) and an R9-290 in a single loop with a 360mm rad, I can run a stress test on the CPU and my loop will barely heat up the loop, but stressing my GPU will make the heat pour out in just a few minutes.

I'd say use as many rads as possible for the GPU's as it won't make a single difference for the CPU. Definitely not if you're not keeping the overclock for extended periods of time.

Tbh, with that many rads it'd be a shame not to run a decent overclock on both the CPU and GPU's 24/7.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I can certainly second that.
> 
> I have a 4770K at 1.39V 4.5Ghz(Yes I know, its a turd) and an R9-290 in a single loop with a 360mm rad, I can run a stress test on the CPU and my loop will barely heat up the loop, but stressing my GPU will make the heat pour out in just a few minutes.
> 
> I'd say use as many rads as possible for the GPU's as it won't make a single difference for the CPU. Definitely not if you're not keeping the overclock for extended periods of time.
> 
> Tbh, with that many rads it'd be a shame not to run a decent overclock on both the CPU and GPU's 24/7.


Lol my 4670k is bad, I need 1.5v for 4.7ghz.


----------



## nyk20z3

EK Gigabyte Z170X Ultra Gaming monoblock -





EK Gigabyte 980 Ti Extreme Gaming Block & Back Plate -


----------



## slatanic

Excited! Will rebuild my rig in a new case. That's the additional stuff I ordered.



My current case is a Corsair Obsidian 250D.
I really love it BUT I need a second radiator!

The temps are too high for watercooling.

The new case will be a NZXT Manta.
Hope Corsair will somewhen release a mITX case that matches my requirements.

Love the aestethics of the obsidian series.


----------



## buellersdayoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slatanic*
> 
> Excited! Will rebuild my rig in a new case. That's the additional stuff I ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> My current case is a Corsair Obsidian 250D.
> I really love it BUT I need a second radiator!
> 
> The temps are too high for watercooling.
> 
> The new case will be a NZXT Manta.
> Hope Corsair will somewhen release a mITX case that matches my requirements.
> 
> Love the aestethics of the obsidian series.


what about the evolv itx http://www.teatimetech.org/reviewlist/2016/1/10/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-itx-review


----------



## slatanic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buellersdayoff*
> 
> what about the evolv itx http://www.teatimetech.org/reviewlist/2016/1/10/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-itx-review


Yeah, checked that out but wasn't sure where I should mount the pump.

Seemed like a hassle.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slatanic*
> 
> Excited! Will rebuild my rig in a new case. That's the additional stuff I ordered.
> 
> My current case is a Corsair Obsidian 250D.
> I really love it BUT I need a second radiator!
> The temps are too high for watercooling.
> 
> The new case will be a NZXT Manta.
> Hope Corsair will somewhen release a mITX case that matches my requirements.
> Love the aestethics of the obsidian series.


The Manta is a bit of an odd case imo, its the size of a water cooling capable M-ATX or even ATX cases.

If you lik the obsidian series, you could just get a 350D, its smaller and cheaper than the manta anyway.


----------



## DarthBaggins

But the manta is a sleek looking case as well, but yes you're open to a larger variety of boards with the 350D


----------



## slatanic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> The Manta is a bit of an odd case imo, its the size of a water cooling capable M-ATX or even ATX cases.
> 
> If you lik the obsidian series, you could just get a 350D, its smaller and cheaper than the manta anyway.


True. The Manta is big for a ITX case. But the 350D isnt THAT smaller. Checked the case dimensions...

Money doesn't really matter.

I'll stick to the Manta for the moment. Really like the interior.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slatanic*
> 
> True. The Manta is big for a ITX case. But the 350D isnt THAT smaller. Checked the case dimensions...
> 
> Money doesn't really matter.
> 
> I'll stick to the Manta for the moment. Really like the interior.


If money does not matter and you want the best get a case lab case!!! Have what ever you want to do what ever you want


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *slatanic*
> 
> True. The Manta is big for a ITX case. But the 350D isnt THAT smaller. Checked the case dimensions...
> 
> Money doesn't really matter.
> 
> I'll stick to the Manta for the moment. Really like the interior.
> 
> 
> 
> If money does not matter and you want the best get a case lab case!!! Have what ever you want to do what ever you want
Click to expand...









True

It's seriously worth it.

I still remember this talk a few months back, when these guys were jokingly saying get a CaseLab case, and then get a Pedestal if the main case is not enough, or Two Pedestal if one pedestal was not enough....

and well it's like a self fulfilling prophecy, ... surely enough I started with just the basic Mercury S8, then I noticed I need more space, so I added a Pedestal, now I noticed even 1 pedestal was not enough, and I'm ordering an Extra Pedestal







.... how crazy is that?

and all I wanted originally was simply to go Full Custom Water to use my new GTX 1080 EK Sea Hawk. LOL


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *slatanic*
> 
> True. The Manta is big for a ITX case. But the 350D isnt THAT smaller. Checked the case dimensions...
> 
> Money doesn't really matter.
> 
> I'll stick to the Manta for the moment. Really like the interior.
> 
> 
> 
> If money does not matter and you want the best get a case lab case!!! Have what ever you want to do what ever you want
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> True
> 
> It's seriously worth it.
> 
> I still remember this talk a few months back, when these guys were jokingly saying get a CaseLab case, and then get a Pedestal if the main case is not enough, or Two Pedestal if one pedestal was not enough....
> 
> and well it's like a self fulfilling prophecy, ... surely enough I started with just the basic Mercury S8, then I noticed I need more space, so I added a Pedestal, now I noticed even 1 pedestal was not enough, and I'm ordering an Extra Pedestal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... how crazy is that?
> 
> and all I wanted originally was simply to go Full Custom Water to use my new GTX 1080 EK Sea Hawk. LOL
Click to expand...

Which could have all been done in a sub $100 case. Just because it's expensive doesn't mean it's essential.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Which could have all been done in a sub $100 case. Just because it's expensive doesn't mean it's essential.


The problem with the Sub $100 case is the Space.... the final frontier... these are the... shackles you are constrained to work with, most Sub $100 to Sub $200 cases at most you can only install 1 or 2 360mm rads.
While 1 or 2 360mm rad are enough for most application, it wasn't enough for the built I envisioned.

I was aiming for a good built that can keep the stuff close to room temp, even during full usage.

I even wanted to pick up a chiller, but gosh the noise... just horrible, I can deal with fan noise, as it kind of fades into the background and becomes white noise, but a Compressor running... that's annoying to say the least.

I have a shop compressor, I could simply rig it to blow air through one of the rads if I really wanted the extra chill, LOL







it'll have close to the same result as a dedicated Chiller.

On a side note, on really hot days, i do actually use the compressor to chill myself when I'm working outside in the garage, really nice cool air








(Kids! Do not try this at home! not all nozzles are compatible for human safety)


----------



## Radmanhs

does anyone have the dimensions of the uni pump mount?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> does anyone have the dimensions of the uni pump mount?


According to the PDF file, it appears to be 120mm x 120mm


----------



## Radmanhs

what about the hole locations for the pump mounts?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> what about the hole locations for the pump mounts?


it might be easier if you check the PDF file https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical

one side is 120mm exact for FAN holes

then you can mount D5 or DDC pump either vertically or horizontally onto the bracket.


----------



## slatanic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> If money does not matter and you want the best get a case lab case!!! Have what ever you want to do what ever you want


The only interesting case atm is the Nova X2M. But you cant mount a 3.5" drive behind the MB tray. Only 2.5" drives.

Well... buying an extra 2.5" HDD seems like the smallest trouble when I think about it. lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

Don't forget about the Bullet series


----------



## AllGamer

*EK D5 pumps*

Do they vibrate alot or just a little?

I'm pondering if I need any kind of anti-vibration pads, cork, foam, or whatever layer between the case and the D5


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *EK D5 pumps*
> 
> Do they vibrate alot or just a little?
> 
> I'm pondering if I need any kind of anti-vibration pads, cork, foam, or whatever layer between the case and the D5


they don't vibrate a ton, but if mounted directly to the case it will reverberate becoming quite noisy in most cases. I'd definitely decouple it the best you can


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> they don't vibrate a ton, but if mounted directly to the case it will reverberate becoming quite noisy in most cases. I'd definitely decouple it the best you can


Thanks for the feedback, good to know.

I'll try some regular of the shelf (home depot) rubber washer and see how that works out.

if that doesn't absorb enough the vibration i'll try some foam or stuff like that, I can make my own homemade version of the soggy sandwich, but that thing is soooooo thick.

I think a small piece of a good old corkboard will do great, if rubber washer doesn't do its job well.

I know foams works the best, but they are thick and take too much space.

I'm trying to keep the insulation at anything less than 1/2"


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback, good to know.
> 
> I'll try some regular of the shelf (home depot) rubber washer and see how that works out.
> 
> if that doesn't absorb enough the vibration i'll try some foam or stuff like that, I can make my own homemade version of the soggy sandwich, but that thing is soooooo thick.
> 
> I think a small piece of a good old corkboard will do great, if rubber washer doesn't do its job well.
> 
> I know foams works the best, but they are thick and take too much space.
> 
> I'm trying to keep the insulation at anything less than 1/2"


the more the better. Also the softer the better, as long as it'll hold the weight of the pump without smashing down. I found rubber washers to help a bit, but the screws transfer most of the vibrations anyways. Best to attach the pump to something with screws and then adhere that to foam and that to the case (like the soggy) that way there's no screws to transfer vibrations either. Makes a world of difference.

You could definitely effectively make one from home depot materials on the cheap


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Don't forget about the Bullet series


Its near impossible to get 2 240mm rads in a bullet though.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Its near impossible to get 2 240mm rads in a bullet though.


Nothing a dremel, a shoehorn, and a lot of time thinking can't fix ^_^


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slatanic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> If money does not matter and you want the best get a case lab case!!! Have what ever you want to do what ever you want
> 
> 
> 
> The only interesting case atm is the Nova X2M. But you cant mount a 3.5" drive behind the MB tray. Only 2.5" drives.
> 
> Well... buying an extra 2.5" HDD seems like the smallest trouble when I think about it. lol
Click to expand...

Going from memory you can mount up to 2 3.5" drives behind the tray. (Again from memory) each 3.5" mount blocks 2 2.5" mounts. There are a total of 4 2.5"mounts. Or mod it.. ..


----------



## AllGamer

Does any know if the EK rads, Res, and pumps can handle the *R134a* refrigerant?

Just pondering if that will work better than using Distilled water + Biocide, or Premix from like PrimoChill / EK Premix, etc


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Does any know if the EK rads, Res, and pumps can handle the *R134a* refrigerant?
> 
> Just pondering if that will work better than using Distilled water + Biocide, or Premix from like PrimoChill / EK Premix, etc


ummmmm...... thats not how that works. Refrigerants change state from a gas to a liquid back to a gas and are compressed instead of pumped. Also the working pressure are MUCH higher than pc watercooling.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> ummmmm...... thats not how that works. Refrigerants change state from a gas to a liquid back to a gas and are compressed instead of pumped. Also the working pressure are MUCH higher than pc watercooling.


NVM them







just thinking that it might be nice if that worked, then it might cool more efficiently


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> ummmmm...... thats not how that works. Refrigerants change state from a gas to a liquid back to a gas and are compressed instead of pumped. Also the working pressure are MUCH higher than pc watercooling.
> 
> 
> 
> NVM them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just thinking that it might be nice if that worked, then it might cool more efficiently
Click to expand...

This is why researching and reading water cooling stickies is so important, so that you understand the basics of what it is about.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> NVM them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just thinking that it might be nice if that worked, then it might cool more efficiently


It does cool more effectively, but it requires a bit of know how and special parts
http://www.overclock.net/t/1547404/cascade-build/80_20#post_24103981

Planning on building my own soon since I service/install refrigerant systems for a living. Its just a matter of time, I'm surrounded by spare parts all day and I already own all the tools.


----------



## Mega Man

Yea I am too. I am currently designing my evap for my home made chiller...


----------



## Alastair

Well my D5 arrived yesterday. I got a D5 vario. However I had to get an xspc 5.25 Bay res as space in my Phantom 820 is at a premium. And my shop only had stock of xspc in Bay res. But my PE360 and CE280 rads should be here soon.

I've looked at XTremerig's review of the PE360. And according to them it looks like it doesn't perform all that much better than the XSPC EX360. But other reviews show a slight performance uplift between the two. Had anyone used the two rads? Both have a split fin 18FPI core. but it's 20mm thick on the EKWB PE360 and only 16mm thick on the EX360. Surely the performance Delta between the two would be a bit more noticeable than what extremerigs is suggesting?


----------



## VSG

The EK CoolStream PE and the XSPC AX 120mm size rads share a common base, and both outperform the XSPC EX by a decent margin- especially at medium to high fan speeds.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> ummmmm...... thats not how that works. Refrigerants change state from a gas to a liquid back to a gas and are compressed instead of pumped. Also the working pressure are MUCH higher than pc watercooling.


Yea doesn't work that way. The compressor does what it sounds like. Compress s the vapor refrigerent into a liquid than that liquid is cooled usually by a cond coil (similar to a rad) or water. Than it goes to a metering device (txv, cap tube, fixed orfis) that than goes and evaporates across and evaporator giving you the cooling. With out a metering device or this process you will kill the compressor with liquid refrigerent. If any refrigerent could work it would be r134a or r416 as both run low pressures (obviously there is more to it than what I said but that's a general idea)


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Well my D5 arrived yesterday. I got a D5 vario. However I had to get an xspc 5.25 Bay res as space in my Phantom 820 is at a premium. And my shop only had stock of xspc in Bay res. But my PE360 and CE280 rads should be here soon.
> 
> I've looked at XTremerig's review of the PE360. And according to them it looks like it doesn't perform all that much better than the XSPC EX360. But other reviews show a slight performance uplift between the two. Had anyone used the two rads? Both have a split fin 18FPI core. but it's 20mm thick on the EKWB PE360 and only 16mm thick on the EX360. Surely the performance Delta between the two would be a bit more noticeable than what extremerigs is suggesting?


Make sure you do my thumbscrew mod, will make your life so much easier.


----------



## canada2005

Just got my shipping confirm for my 1080 FTW block and backplate.


----------



## AllGamer

Does anyone know if the EK TIM is sticky enough to keep a chip stuck without the use of mounting brackets ?

I'm planning to pick up a couple of EK-Thermosphere https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-thermosphere
to use it with a Peltier TEC1-12730

if the TIM is strong enough like the old white / grey thermal compounds stuff, then I can use it as is, else I'll have to create some sort of holder / clip to keep them in place.

The alternative is to use any of the CPU or VGA blocks as those have built-in holes to screw them together.

but the CPU and VGA blocks have a smaller surface area.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The EK CoolStream PE and the XSPC AX 120mm size rads share a common base, and both outperform the XSPC EX by a decent margin- especially at medium to high fan speeds.


And what about the older Coolstream XT360 vs the EX360


----------



## Alastair

And does anyone know the story of restriction full cover blocks have?


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> And does anyone know the story of restriction full cover blocks have?


Check out xtremerigs.net and thermalbench.com for those kind of info


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> And does anyone know the story of restriction full cover blocks have?


Its basically minuscule. The highest restrictions come at the hand of the alphacool gpx blocks, you give up better flow for much lower core temps.


----------



## fakeblood

Manta build in progress. D5 Revo top and aquacomputer aquatube should be here tomorrow to finish it up.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Does anyone know if the EK TIM is sticky enough to keep a chip stuck without the use of mounting brackets ?
> 
> I'm planning to pick up a couple of EK-Thermosphere https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-thermosphere
> to use it with a Peltier TEC1-12730
> 
> if the TIM is strong enough like the old white / grey thermal compounds stuff, then I can use it as is, else I'll have to create some sort of holder / clip to keep them in place.
> 
> The alternative is to use any of the CPU or VGA blocks as those have built-in holes to screw them together.
> 
> but the CPU and VGA blocks have a smaller surface area.


Just use a simple clamp or two from home depot while you experiment and refine how you want to fine tune your setup:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-6-in-Medium-Trigger-Clamp-DWHT83139/204389199


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> And what about the older Coolstream XT360 vs the EX360


I have no experience with the older EK rads unfortunately, their first rad I tested was the CoolStream PE.

As for full cover GPU blocks, newer ones with split flow on the core have similar liquid flow restriction as average 2016 CPU blocks. Not a lot, but still one of the most restrictive in the loop.


----------



## mizer357

I considered picking up a Thermosphere because I liked the concept of a minimal, universal block, but the need to purchase and install additional heatsinks and such had me wondering if it was even worth the trouble over a regular full cover block. What do you guys think?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> I considered picking up a Thermosphere because I liked the concept of a minimal, universal block, but the need to purchase and install additional heatsinks and such had me wondering if it was even worth the trouble over a regular full cover block. What do you guys think?


If you have the opportunity to get a fullcover block for your card, I would see no.......... and I mean NO Reason to purchase a thermosphere, Unless you change cards a lot and want to use one block for your frequent changeouts.

TCO


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> I considered picking up a Thermosphere because I liked the concept of a minimal, universal block, but the need to purchase and install additional heatsinks and such had me wondering if it was even worth the trouble over a regular full cover block. What do you guys think?


Adding to what CTO said, HBM will change everything as far as universal GPU blocks go.


----------



## mizer357

Thanks guys. Forgive my ignorance if this was mentioned earlier in the thread, but what is HBM?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> Thanks guys. Forgive my ignorance if this was mentioned earlier in the thread, but what is HBM?


I was going to ask the same question









TCO


----------



## VSG

High Bandwidth Memory.

AMD first introduced it on a retail GPU with the R9 Fury and Fury X, followed by R9 Nano:





Not all universal GPU blocks today will cover the larger area around the GPU there.


----------



## mizer357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*


Ah, thank you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I was going to ask the same question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Just use a simple clamp or two from home depot while you experiment and refine how you want to fine tune your setup:
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-6-in-Medium-Trigger-Clamp-DWHT83139/204389199


LOL







I got those in my tool box already, I was looking for ideas to permanently mount them in the case.

This is why originally I was planning to go with the EK VGA blocks instead, easier to mount using screws & nuts, as they can do 58x58mm,
It's just the right size for the 50x50mm TEC1-12726 which maxes at 26A, and produces 232.5W of chill

It's just a tad less than the one you suggested at 62x62mm TEC1-12730, 30A, 266.7W... aprox 34W difference

If I end up using the EK-Thermosphere, then I'll probably create a couple of bracket out of spare PCI slots shims, flatten it, shape it to the EK-Thermosphere, and drill a hole there and use a screw + nut to tighten it.

or the other alternative is to use Thermal Glue, which is kind of like an epoxy but with heat transfer capability.... but this method will be a pain later on, if I want to take them apart to replace the TEC if it ever fails, or if any of the EK-Thermosphere fails and needs servicing









--- EDIT ---

I love shopping at Home depot, I always find what I want








I could use any of these to make a nice contraption to keep the EK-Thermosphere-Peltier Sandwich in place

shape this to match the Sandwich, a couple of them will do the trick


or simply tighten the Sandwich with a 4 of these


or use this kit for a more Pro look







it looks much more secure than the 2 other options above.


----------



## fitzy-775

I am going to be doing my first water cooling loop and I need to drill holes in my case for the res and pump. Do i need to take the components out of the case or will it be fine to drill with all the components in the case?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> I am going to be doing my first water cooling loop and I need to drill holes in my case for the res and pump. Do i need to take the components out of the case or will it be fine to drill with all the components in the case?


Safer to remove components due to the small pieces of metal shavings.

TCO


----------



## looniam

and he is not saying that because of his username.


----------



## AllGamer

*@akira749* or anyone

Does anyone know the Block size physical dimension of the *EK-Thermosphere*?
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-thermosphere

The PDF only talks about the interchangeable mounting plate sizes, but not really the dimensions of the block itself


----------



## mizer357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@akira749* or anyone
> 
> Does anyone know the Block size physical dimension of the *EK-Thermosphere*?
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-thermosphere
> 
> The PDF only talks about the interchangeable mounting plate sizes, but not really the dimensions of the block itself


The only real review I came upon when doing my search is here:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2409064/depth-review-thermosphere-universal-water-block.html

Not sure how precise you need the measurement to be, but knowing that the mounting plates are approx 61mm x 61mm, you might be able to eyeball a number based on the pics in the review such as:


----------



## looniam

don't know how accurate but:

https://www.amazon.com/EK-Thermosphere-Water-Block-Copper-Acetal/dp/B00KGKMCU0


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> The only real review I came upon when doing my search is here:
> http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2409064/depth-review-thermosphere-universal-water-block.html
> 
> Not sure how precise you need the measurement to be, but knowing that the mounting plates are approx 61mm x 61mm, you might be able to eyeball a number based on the pics in the review such as:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> don't know how accurate but:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/EK-Thermosphere-Water-Block-Copper-Acetal/dp/B00KGKMCU0
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for trying you two.

The first picture was not quite 1:1 size ratio, but it was pretty close,
between that, and the BOX size listed in amazon, I have a fairly good idea what to expect.

It might work after all.

I got a few SSD to 3.5" trays, I can use to convert them into mounting brackets for the Sandwich

EK-Thermosphere + Peltier TEC1-12730 (62 x 62mm) + EK-Thermosphere

4 long screws + winged nuts to tighten the contraption together


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Thanks for trying you two.
> 
> The first picture was not quite 1:1 size ratio, but it was pretty close,
> between that, and the BOX size listed in amazon, I have a fairly good idea what to expect.
> 
> It might work after all.
> 
> I got a few SSD to 3.5" trays, I can use to convert them into mounting brackets for the Sandwich
> 
> EK-Thermosphere + Peltier TEC1-12730 (62 x 62mm) + EK-Thermosphere
> 
> 4 long screws + winged nuts to tighten the contraption together


The biggest TEC you can put on that block will be a 50mm or it will burn yo from no cooling. The edges do not provide good heat transfer... I would get a high powered 40mm one


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> The biggest TEC you can put on that block will be a 50mm or it will burn yo from no cooling. The edges do not provide good heat transfer... I would get a high powered 40mm one


Thanks for catching that.

yes I'm aware it's only the copper part that actually provides cooling.

It's always best to use a TEC smaller than the Heatsink size, so it can capture all the heat and cool it evenly.

I can't seem to find the 50x50mm version of TEC1-12730,
The next best option is TEC1-12726 at 50 x 50mm, that will match exactly.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> I considered picking up a Thermosphere because I liked the concept of a minimal, universal block, but the need to purchase and install additional heatsinks and such had me wondering if it was even worth the trouble over a regular full cover block. What do you guys think?


I would think that this would answer your question...

"Can you transfer a FC block over different manufacturer cards and or generations of cards without modification?"

I have two Thermosheres and paid a considerable amount for Swiftech heatsinks and had them milled to accept Thermospheres over Swiftech GPU only blocks.

Costs less in the long run than buying a card specific FC block for each generational upgrade. GPU RAM doesn't run hot enough to worry about watercooling them and VRAM5 only require a heatsink unless you're throwing a lot of voltage on them to stabilize a mondo OC.









Initially the cost will be round the same. But long term? Yeah I think you pay pennies on the pound.









~Ceadder


----------



## smicha

*EK POWER*


----------



## Kimir

Neat.


----------



## mizer357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would think that this would answer your question...
> 
> "Can you transfer a FC block over different manufacturer cards and or generations of cards without modification?"
> 
> I have two Thermosheres and paid a considerable amount for Swiftech heatsinks and had them milled to accept Thermospheres over Swiftech GPU only blocks.
> 
> Costs less in the long run than buying a card specific FC block for each generational upgrade. GPU RAM doesn't run hot enough to worry about watercooling them and VRAM5 only require a heatsink unless you're throwing a lot of voltage on them to stabilize a mondo OC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Initially the cost will be round the same. But long term? Yeah I think you pay pennies on the pound.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Woah, those heatsinks look so rad with the Thermospheres in your pics. Nice job!


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> *EK POWER*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are those really 7 Titan X?

How are you planning to use them? 4 in SLI and another set of 3 in SLI ?

Or are you planning to virtualize them with unRAID, and assign 1 for each VM ?


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Are those really 7 Titan X?
> 
> How are you planning to use them? 4 in SLI and another set of 3 in SLI ?
> 
> Or are you planning to virtualize them with unRAID, and assign 1 for each VM ?


rendering machine maybe.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> I am going to be doing my first water cooling loop and I need to drill holes in my case for the res and pump. Do i need to take the components out of the case or will it be fine to drill with all the components in the case?


Personally I would remove them, all it takes is some really bad luck for a metal shaving to short out a connection and your gear is FUBAR, it will be cool, dead cool.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Personally I would remove them, all it takes is some really bad luck for a metal shaving to short out a connection and your gear is FUBAR, it will be cool, dead cool.


That's why I always keep my best buddy Mr. Porter ready for action, blast your rig at least once a week to keep dustevil away
















It's so handy to have a Compressor at hand, otherwise I'd have probably gone through tons of cans of compressed air already.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> That's why I always keep my best buddy Mr. Porter ready for action, blast your rig at least once a week to keep dustevil away
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's so handy to have a Compressor at hand, otherwise I'd have probably gone through tons of cans of compressed air already.


Doesn't matter lol nothing says you won't blow some metal onto the board by accident?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Doesn't matter lol nothing says you won't blow some metal onto the board by accident?


it could happen, you're right.

it depends how throughout you blast, and inspect the parts, but at 165 PSI and an industrial vacuum right next to it to pick up the stuff mid air... not many particles survives the clean up.

in anycase, if we are modding a case, the most logical thing is to un-install all the PC parts before working on it.

Too many accidents can happen when you are drilling, filing, dremel-ing the area being modded, even if not metal dust, you can easily knock over and break the RAM / GPU, etc, specially in our waterloops, all those tubes and cables... too easily to rip something can cause a bigger mess


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> it could happen, you're right.
> 
> it depends how throughout you blast, and inspect the parts, but at 165 PSI and an industrial vacuum right next to it to pick up the stuff mid air... not many particles survives the clean up.
> 
> in anycase, if we are modding a case, the most logical thing is to un-install all the PC parts before working on it.
> 
> Too many accidents can happen when you are drilling, filing, dremel-ing the area being modded, even if not metal dust, you can easily knock over and break the RAM / GPU, etc, specially in our waterloops, all those tubes and cables... too easily to rip something can cause a bigger mess


It only took me a few mins to drain my loop and remove the motherboard with the blocks and ram intact etc and put somewhere safe while I went and dremel cut the lip of my define s. I would imagine getting a new board etc would of taken longer. But you're right.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would think that this would answer your question...
> 
> "Can you transfer a FC block over different manufacturer cards and or generations of cards without modification?"
> 
> I have two Thermosheres and paid a considerable amount for Swiftech heatsinks and had them milled to accept Thermospheres over Swiftech GPU only blocks.
> 
> Costs less in the long run than buying a card specific FC block for each generational upgrade. GPU RAM doesn't run hot enough to worry about watercooling them and VRAM5 only require a heatsink unless you're throwing a lot of voltage on them to stabilize a mondo OC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Initially the cost will be round the same. But long term? Yeah I think you pay pennies on the pound.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Woah, those heatsinks look so rad with the Thermospheres in your pics. Nice job!
Click to expand...

Thank you.









I didn't do the work. Just furnished the concept to the machinist because I knew they could be altered to allow for compatibility. He mapped them and cut them and they fit perfectly.

Hope to see EK offer this style of heatsink in the near future because tbqh they look tons better than having a bunch of little heatsink sticking to everything.









~Ceadder


----------



## AllGamer

*@akira749*

EK-AF T-Splitter and EK-AF X-Splitter have been out of stock for a very long time, even at PPC

Any idea when EK will ever re-stock these, or maybe something new is in the pipeline to replace these?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Finally took photos of the Supremacy MX block I have that I caught leaking: @akira749






I was using EK's EVO coolant with Mayhems red dye


----------



## slatanic

Filled that *****!


----------



## fakeblood

Also filled mine









http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/20160924_113038_zpsjg09s5c8.jpg.html
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/20160924_131919_zpsmv29ytey.jpg.html


----------



## buellersdayoff

Some folks are like, go hard or go home lol, I'm a softy...soft tube it is for me. Sign me up for the EK club. Conservatively overclocked 6700k @ 4500mhz, 980ti @1405mhz, fans @ 1000rpm Max- 600rpm idle, Max temps while heavily loaded = 50-55c gpu cpu, idle = 25-21. I can get the load temps down a lot more with more fan speed but I like quiet.
Systems is capable of keeping 300-400w cool @ these settings.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Nothing wrong with soft tube, I've become a big fan of EK's ZMT


----------



## nyk20z3




----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would think that this would answer your question...
> 
> "Can you transfer a FC block over different manufacturer cards and or generations of cards without modification?"
> 
> I have two Thermosheres and paid a considerable amount for Swiftech heatsinks and had them milled to accept Thermospheres over Swiftech GPU only blocks.
> 
> Costs less in the long run than buying a card specific FC block for each generational upgrade. GPU RAM doesn't run hot enough to worry about watercooling them and VRAM5 only require a heatsink unless you're throwing a lot of voltage on them to stabilize a mondo OC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Initially the cost will be round the same. But long term? Yeah I think you pay pennies on the pound.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Woah, those heatsinks look so rad with the Thermospheres in your pics. Nice job!
Click to expand...

Thank you. And since you mention them...



Spoiler: Here is that Thermosphere Pr0n!!









Thom Randolph up in the Seattle area did the work. I just provided the material and the mental picture. He did such an awesome job.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Nothing wrong with soft tube, I've become a big fan of EK's ZMT


I would rather have hardline but that ZMT is so smexy. Just finished up installing a Predator 240 in my client's build and really like that ZMT.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

More in the Log (S3 With Pedestal)



TCO


----------



## tps3443

Hey everyone, I need some guidance.

I'm looking to build my first custom loop, it's really necessary! I use my computer for encoding at work, and my CPU, and gtx1080 is just to noisy with my overclocks. I bring my PC to, and from work. So it needed to be smaller.

This is what I have.

Phanteks Evolv entho itx case, "Without Window"

6600K, @4.9Ghz

GTX1080 FE.

I want to water cool my CPU, and GPU. And I'm really confused with all of the tubing diameters, and fitting sizes.

I can fit a 240 up top, and a 240 in the front, and a 120mm in the back.

I would like to run big fat tubes, to a EK CPU block, and a EK GPU block full coverage with a back plate.

And a single D5 pump with a shorter cylinder reservoir combo?

I'm really confused to fitting sizes, etc.etc. rad thickness.

Under $500 would be great. I just need a silent system. My GPU, and AIO rad fans are wayyy to loud. My GPU loads about 82C, and CPU is like 90C

I see all these other cats Overclocked with a GTX1080, and there load temp is like 30-40C! It's amazing.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tps3443*
> 
> Hey everyone, I need some guidance.
> 
> I'm looking to build my first custom loop, it's really necessary! I use my computer for encoding at work, and my CPU, and gtx1080 is just to noisy with my overclocks. I bring my PC to, and from work. So it needed to be smaller.
> 
> This is what I have.
> 
> Phanteks Evolv entho itx case, "Without Window"
> 
> 6600K, @4.9Ghz
> 
> GTX1080 FE.
> 
> I want to water cool my CPU, and GPU. And I'm really confused with all of the tubing diameters, and fitting sizes.
> 
> I can fit a 240 up top, and a 240 in the front, and a 120mm in the back.
> 
> I would like to run big fat tubes, to a EK CPU block, and a EK GPU block full coverage with a back plate.
> 
> And a single D5 pump with a shorter cylinder reservoir combo?
> 
> I'm really confused to fitting sizes, etc.etc. rad thickness.
> 
> Under $500 would be great. I just need a silent system. My GPU, and AIO rad fans are wayyy to loud. My GPU loads about 82C, and CPU is like 90C
> 
> I see all these other cats Overclocked with a GTX1080, and there load temp is like 30-40C! It's amazing.


Because you said cat is the reason you caught my attention. I personally wouldn't buy the 120mm as I think they look tacky and with the low wattage output from the 1080 I wouldn't think it would need more than a 240mm rad. If you are thinking of a certain rad, look at the exterior dimensions instead of the core thickness as they are two different things. A D5 will be fine for the rads and blocks, also more if you add them down the line in another upgrade or what not.

Fittings are sold by diameter for hard line. Id = inside diameter of the tube and Od = outside diameter
TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

A 120 should be more than enough headroom for a GPU only loop. Of course a 240 is where I would go with it but a 120 is doable.

A 360 would be better still, especially if contemplating adding the CPU to the loop.

And at least 480 worth of cooling would guarantee both stay chilly with an OC on them.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kenjiwing

Anyone know when the gigabyte designare monoblock will be out? They mentioned it coming soon on FB.


----------



## Asus11

anyone got any discount codes for the EK shop?

even 5% would be cool..get it










ALSO why wont EK let me use my PayPal balance? its forcing me to use a card via PayPal...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Anyone know when the gigabyte designare monoblock will be out? They mentioned it coming soon on FB.


No recent ETA. I will try to have some update


----------



## tps3443

It looks to me that the EK kits are a huge value!

The Performance 240 and 280 are roughly $350.00, includes a D5 w/ reservoir, rad, tubing, fittings, and cpu block.

I can fit a 240, or a 280 in the top of my case. is there a disadvantage with a 280 over a 240?

I am going to order one of these kits, and order the EK gtx1080 water block to have a full loop. Is a single 240 or 280 rad sufficient for my 6600K and GTX1080?? Or should I order a extra 240 rad for the front too?

So far it would be,

EK D5 Performance 240mm kit and gtx1080 water block, and maybe a 2nd 240mm radiator if needed.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tps3443*
> 
> It looks to me that the EK kits are a huge value!
> 
> The Performance 240 and 280 are roughly $350.00, includes a D5 w/ reservoir, rad, tubing, fittings, and cpu block.
> 
> I can fit a 240, or a 280 in the top of my case. is there a disadvantage with a 280 over a 240?
> 
> I am going to order one of these kits, and order the EK gtx1080 water block to have a full loop. Is a single 240 or 280 rad sufficient for my 6600K and GTX1080?? Or should I order a extra 240 rad for the front too?
> 
> So far it would be,
> 
> EK D5 Performance 240mm kit and gtx1080 water block, and maybe a 2nd 240mm radiator if needed.


If you can fit the 280mm rad go for it, and it should be able to cool your CPU&GPU if you're not doing any significant overclocks. But adding a second 240/280mm rad wouldn't hurt and would diffidently help to bring noise levels down.

What case will you be using btw?


----------



## VSG

No disadvantage in going with a 280mm rad instead of the 240mm rad, aside from the different dimensions of course. The CoolStream CE cools better at the same noise airflow, and same noise from airflow, than the CoolStream XE.


----------



## looniam

i have the p280 kit and does a very adequate job with i7-2600K (4.4ghz 1.32v) 980ti (bios modded 330 watts) running prime AND furmark (65c/50c).

however i am debating adding more rad (new case too) or getting nore fans (push/pull).


----------



## tps3443

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i have the p280 kit and does a very adequate job with i7-2600K (4.4ghz 1.32v) 980ti (bios modded 330 watts) running prime AND furmark (65c/50c).
> 
> however i am debating adding more rad (new case too) or getting nore fans (push/pull).


Wow it still does a great job!

However from what I've seen, I think if you added another 240 or 280 Rad your GPU would probably be around the 40c range gaming.


----------



## andrej124

HI @smicha, can you show more of your machine??


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tps3443*
> 
> Wow it still does a great job!
> 
> However from what I've seen, I think if you added another 240 or 280 Rad your GPU would probably be around the 40c range gaming.


Would be nice if it worked that way haha. Don't think it would drop 10°C just adding another 240. It might drop that water temp another couple ° but thats about it. Doesn't translate to 10°C drop on the core unfortunately. And if anything, a 360 would be more beneficial then a 240/280.


----------



## smicha

Sure. I'll post a build log soon. And for another machine, even more powerful







Stay tuned.


----------



## s74r1

Pump questions (Lowara vs Xylem/G2):

Buying a *EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - (incl. pump)* soon from local store. Store has old pictures showing _Lowara_ pump on website.
How to tell if included pump is new *Xylem* based *EK-D5 PWM G2 Motor* and not old stock with *Lowara* pump? (G1)
Correct me if wrong but new G2 motors are now standard on all X-TOP Revo's (and prob. other models) manufactured after April, 2016?
Is there a way to tell manufacture date from the box? Numbers on silver sticker make no sense, not a date. EAN code is the same still.
Thanks in advance if anyone can provide answers, I'm in a bit of a rush and EK email takes a long time.

Edit: Store just got the numbers off the silver stickers, but again I have no idea what dates these might be related to. I assume it's just a manufacturing number. anyone know if these might be after April-ish with the new G2 motor?
black 24061638
plexi 02081638
Edit2: Screw it... I'll just buy both and see. Will report back in case it helps anyone else in my situation.
Edit3: Bought both, one Black Acetal with silver sticker in the 25XXXXXX range IIRC, but it was old stock apparently and still had the old Lowara labeled pump. A Plexi with "27061651" on the silver sticker had the new G2 motor and the additional Revo D5 Soft Damper (with pyramid design). Thankfully they offer full refund within 30.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains




----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


not a fan of red being used in rigs but in your case (pun intended) it suits you well. very nice indeed.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Anyone know when the gigabyte designare monoblock will be out? They mentioned it coming soon on FB.


Should be available next week around Thursday.


----------



## buellersdayoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tps3443*
> 
> It looks to me that the EK kits are a huge value!
> 
> The Performance 240 and 280 are roughly $350.00, includes a D5 w/ reservoir, rad, tubing, fittings, and cpu block.
> 
> I can fit a 240, or a 280 in the top of my case. is there a disadvantage with a 280 over a 240?
> 
> I am going to order one of these kits, and order the EK gtx1080 water block to have a full loop. Is a single 240 or 280 rad sufficient for my 6600K and GTX1080?? Or should I order a extra 240 rad for the front too?
> 
> So far it would be,
> 
> EK D5 Performance 240mm kit and gtx1080 water block, and maybe a 2nd 240mm radiator if needed.


Check out my rig a few posts back, a second 240 may be ideal if you want quiet. I'm using ek vardar f4 er 2200rpm fans and have them at 1000rpm max any faster is too loud for me...the only time my rig is loud is at boot when the motherboard gives 100% for a few seconds. It's a little annoying and if I did this build again I'd get fans that Max out @ 1000-1500rpm for that reason alone.

Don't forget extra fittings for gpu and second rad and be sure the res will fit in that little case.


----------



## AllGamer

Quick question...

is this *EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 Black* fitting static or rotary?
Does anyone know?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quick question...
> 
> is this *EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 Black* fitting static or rotary?
> Does anyone know?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Rotary, because it has the knurled base. Non-rotary's don't have a base at all, just the threads. EK doesn't make a non rotary 90 afaik.


----------



## CapKrunch

Hello,

I ordered Performance 280 kit with 1 140mm radiator for my 5820k and waterblock for gtx 1080. I'm running my 5820k 4.6g at 1.29v and gtx 1080 is at 2099mhz. Highest temperature i ever seen is 78c with OCCT and I'm running fan at low rpm, so, I'm happy with it. This is my first water loop, and there could be improvement somewhere if I keep working on it.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CapKrunch*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I ordered Performance 280 kit with 1 140mm radiator for my 5820k and waterblock for gtx 1080. I'm running my 5820k 4.6g at 1.29v and gtx 1080 is at 2099mhz. Highest temperature i ever seen is 78c with OCCT and I'm running fan at low rpm, so, I'm happy with it. This is my first water loop, and there could be improvement somewhere if I keep working on it.


Pics or it didn't happen, haha!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quick question...
> 
> is this *EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 Black* fitting static or rotary?
> Does anyone know?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Rotary, because it has the knurled base. Non-rotary's don't have a base at all, just the threads. EK doesn't make a non rotary 90 afaik.


@Radnad is right. And no we don't make any non-rotary angled adapters.


----------



## Gm3show

Noob incoming, how do i take this apart the tube i am going crazy any help, i use my hands to try to unscrew but it turns and stays the same...


----------



## Kimir

Well, the right one is the new type of fitting; so put the hex key in it and a soft cloth (multiple layers to not scratch it) on the outer ring and unscrew if with plier if you can't get it by hand.
For the one on the left, same process with two plier, warp the fitting in soft cloth and you should be able to do it.
Pliers are never recommended, but if you can't do it by hands, with layers of cloth/tissue around it, it's safe as long as you don't rip and put to much force.


----------



## Gm3show

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Well, the right one is the new type of fitting; so put the hex key in it and a soft cloth (multiple layers to not scratch it) on the outer ring and unscrew if with plier if you can't get it by hand.
> For the one on the left, same process with two plier, warp the fitting in soft cloth and you should be able to do it.
> Pliers are never recommended, but if you can't do it by hands, with layers of cloth/tissue around it, it's safe as long as you don't rip and put to much force.


i turn and turn try to pull as well and it turns but stays the same, it turns that is not the issue, i have never done this so...sorry for being slow i did not see this coming


----------



## Gm3show

I think i figured this out this fitting does not come apart i have to apply the tube with force on top of the fitting no? rotary fitting turns and turns so i dont see another way and there is no screw marks visible check the photo


----------



## JunkStar




----------



## Gm3show

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*


Looks the same but it not the same because like i said i turn and turn and it just turns it does not unscrew and come apart these fittings are for the 360 predator


----------



## JunkStar

The part with the barb (the left on the picture) should be held with a umbraco(hex key) and then you should be able to turn the right hand part. It might by very difficult to turn so use a pipe wrench (or whatever its called in english) and some towels to hold it tight... And remeber, lefty-loosy righty-tighty...


----------



## JunkStar

Waterpump pliers is it called


----------



## Gm3show

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*
> 
> The part with the barb (the left on the picture) should be held with a umbraco(hex key) and then you should be able to turn the right hand part. It might by very difficult to turn so use a pipe wrench (or whatever its called in english) and some towels to hold it tight... And remeber, lefty-loosy righty-tighty...


its pretty difficult to explain but everything turns left to right and right to left, the fitting has two parts correct and the two parts turn any way you want but it does not unscrew.


----------



## JunkStar

Are you hold the barb piece with a 8mm hex/allen/umbraco key? Then it shouldnt turn...


----------



## Gm3show

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*
> 
> Are you hold the barb piece with a 8mm hex/allen/umbraco key? Then it shouldnt turn...


turns either way maybe this is a different type of fitting i dont really know


----------



## JunkStar

It really sounds like either ur doing it wrong (sorry) or the threads are completely messed which would surprise me since they seem REALLY sturdy...


----------



## Gm3show

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*
> 
> It really sounds like either ur doing it wrong (sorry) or the threads are completely messed which would surprise me since they seem REALLY sturdy...


I am trying to this i think he is using the same fittings i see no screw marks on the fittings do you have to pull or use a hammer ?


----------



## figgie

well I had the same issue with these fittings.

what happens is if it is NOT perfectly square (as close to 90 degrees to the base of the fitting), it will spin but not engage the threads...

I'll use this post to update MY EK parts









Just received.

2 x Titan XP - Nickel water blocks
2 x Titan XP - Nickel back plates
1 x Supremacy EVO Elite - 2011-v3
1 x EK-FC Triple Parallel - Plexi


----------



## JunkStar

The ones in that video that are screwed into the radiator is the barb part that has an 8mm hex internally that would have to hold onto with a hex key, then the parts he has on the table will unscrew and then you can pull off the tubing from the barb. Dont know if EK ever made a 1 piece fitting but it seems unlikely from the pictures you showed. If i were home i could make a video on how to take it apart but im not untill monday


----------



## CapKrunch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Pics or it didn't happen, haha!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gm3show*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks the same but it not the same because like i said i turn and turn and it just turns it does not unscrew and come apart these fittings are for the 360 predator
Click to expand...

Did you notice the flats on 2 fittings? Assuming this is not your issue...

Firstly, you really shouldn't have cut the tubing before removing your fittings. But now that it is irreversible. You will need to replace one fitting at a time and use the Radiator as a vice(support) of sorts. Make sure not to overtighten the fitting, but it needs to be snug because you will need to keep it steady when removing the compression rings.

This is gonna be real fun for you since you cannot put that Radiator in a Vice. Think "Tin Can" here. Easily distorted and wrecked should you attempt this. Get someone with some upper body strength to stabilize the Radiator, take a Rubber band/packing tape and wrap the compression ring and then try to remove it. If it's too slippery(often is the case with packing tape) then you will need a pair of lock pliers and you should be able to undo them carefully.

I used this method back when I had a bunch of Black Nickel fittings and had to do what you're doing. Of course those tubes weren't cut down to the length of what you have. So there ya go. Should be easy peasy.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarkIdeals

So i've had a terrible time with high temps on my CPU with my loop. Idle is fine, around 30-35C, but under load with like Cinebench it goes to around 80C despite me having a 480mm and a 360mm rad hooked up to just the CPU (no GPUs in the loop). I found that my block was corroded and nickel plating was flaking etc.. so i got a new EK RVE-10 Monoblock to replace the Supremacy EVO i was running, and i got a new D5 pump to replace the old one in case that was bad.

Despite the new pump and new block i'm STILL getting temps close to 80C under cinebench load and can't for the life of me figure out what's causing it. I've tried swapping inlet and outlet ports, i've tried lowering voltages etc.. (even at total stock 3.5ghz on the 6950X it still gets ~68-70C under load which is way too high), i even tried changing out my PSU to a different one, i tried flushing the loop with vinegar/water mixture and flushing the rads as well etc.. Nothing works!

Anyone have any idea of what would be causing this? It's happened on three different CPUs so far, with two different blocks, and two different pumps. I even removed my 420mm radiator in case that was causing issues, leaving just the 480 and 360.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> So i've had a terrible time with high temps on my CPU with my loop. Idle is fine, around 30-35C, but under load with like Cinebench it goes to around 80C despite me having a 480mm and a 360mm rad hooked up to just the CPU (no GPUs in the loop). I found that my block was corroded and nickel plating was flaking etc.. so i got a new EK RVE-10 Monoblock to replace the Supremacy EVO i was running, and i got a new D5 pump to replace the old one in case that was bad.
> 
> Despite the new pump and new block i'm STILL getting temps close to 80C under cinebench load and can't for the life of me figure out what's causing it. I've tried swapping inlet and outlet ports, i've tried lowering voltages etc.. (even at total stock 3.5ghz on the 6950X it still gets ~68-70C under load which is way too high), i even tried changing out my PSU to a different one, i tried flushing the loop with vinegar/water mixture and flushing the rads as well etc.. Nothing works!
> 
> Anyone have any idea of what would be causing this? It's happened on three different CPUs so far, with two different blocks, and two different pumps. I even removed my 420mm radiator in case that was causing issues, leaving just the 480 and 360.


To my knowledge swapping ports doesnt even work and should never be done. Pretty sure ekwb cpu blocks only have and inlent and outlet that cannot be switched.

My guess would be something is up with your mounting, bad pressure on the cpu causing high temps. Other reason could be your 6950x on your auto settings getting too high a voltage.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> So i've had a terrible time with high temps on my CPU with my loop. Idle is fine, around 30-35C, but under load with like Cinebench it goes to around 80C despite me having a 480mm and a 360mm rad hooked up to just the CPU (no GPUs in the loop). I found that my block was corroded and nickel plating was flaking etc.. so i got a new EK RVE-10 Monoblock to replace the Supremacy EVO i was running, and i got a new D5 pump to replace the old one in case that was bad.
> 
> Despite the new pump and new block i'm STILL getting temps close to 80C under cinebench load and can't for the life of me figure out what's causing it. I've tried swapping inlet and outlet ports, i've tried lowering voltages etc.. (even at total stock 3.5ghz on the 6950X it still gets ~68-70C under load which is way too high), i even tried changing out my PSU to a different one, i tried flushing the loop with vinegar/water mixture and flushing the rads as well etc.. Nothing works!
> 
> Anyone have any idea of what would be causing this? It's happened on three different CPUs so far, with two different blocks, and two different pumps. I even removed my 420mm radiator in case that was causing issues, leaving just the 480 and 360.


Did you check your fans? set them at a higher RPM if they are running in quiet mode

Did you clean up the dust from your Radiators? (compressed air will do just fine)


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> So i've had a terrible time with high temps on my CPU with my loop. Idle is fine, around 30-35C, but under load with like Cinebench it goes to around 80C despite me having a 480mm and a 360mm rad hooked up to just the CPU (no GPUs in the loop). I found that my block was corroded and nickel plating was flaking etc.. so i got a new EK RVE-10 Monoblock to replace the Supremacy EVO i was running, and i got a new D5 pump to replace the old one in case that was bad.
> 
> Despite the new pump and new block i'm STILL getting temps close to 80C under cinebench load and can't for the life of me figure out what's causing it. I've tried swapping inlet and outlet ports, i've tried lowering voltages etc.. (even at total stock 3.5ghz on the 6950X it still gets ~68-70C under load which is way too high), i even tried changing out my PSU to a different one, i tried flushing the loop with vinegar/water mixture and flushing the rads as well etc.. Nothing works!
> 
> Anyone have any idea of what would be causing this? It's happened on three different CPUs so far, with two different blocks, and two different pumps. I even removed my 420mm radiator in case that was causing issues, leaving just the 480 and 360.


Can you post some pics of your loop so we can see what your working with?


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Can you post some pics of your loop so we can see what your working with?


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> To my knowledge swapping ports doesnt even work and should never be done. Pretty sure ekwb cpu blocks only have and inlent and outlet that cannot be switched.
> 
> My guess would be something is up with your mounting, bad pressure on the cpu causing high temps. Other reason could be your 6950x on your auto settings getting too high a voltage.


I tried remounting the block a dozen times and even getting a new block with no results. I also have verified that my 6950X is only getting 1.368v when manual overclock is set; and on auto it's getting even less thus the temps are ~68-70C instead of ~80C when i overclock.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Did you check your fans? set them at a higher RPM if they are running in quiet mode
> 
> Did you clean up the dust from your Radiators? (compressed air will do just fine)


Yup, i have the fans set to ~1,500rpm each (all 7 of them) and i've cleaned dust off the rad surface as best as i could. It's really a mystery here, i have NO idea what's causing it and have tried virtually everything...


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> I tried remounting the block a dozen times and even getting a new block with no results. I also have verified that my 6950X is only getting 1.368v when manual overclock is set; and on auto it's getting even less thus the temps are ~68-70C instead of ~80C when i overclock.
> Yup, i have the fans set to ~1,500rpm each (all 7 of them) and i've cleaned dust off the rad surface as best as i could. It's really a mystery here, i have NO idea what's causing it and have tried virtually everything...


What speed setting do you have your pump set at? Have you tried turning the pump off to see what happens?


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> What speed setting do you have your pump set at? Have you tried turning the pump off to see what happens?


My pump doesn't have speed control on the back; it's one of the "B" models that is always at speed level 4. I did hook it up via PWM 4 pin though and had the BIOS settings set to the highest RPM possible and it appears to move pretty fast so i don't think that's a problem, especially after trying two different pumps.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*


What is you water temperature?

I see a tube run between the Pump and the waterblock, is that the return line to the pump?


----------



## Kimir

It's perfectly normal to see such temp with such voltage and a monobloc.
You might just need to change your uefi settings to make it run cooler, that 10 cores beast is hard to tame.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> It's perfectly normal to see such temp with such voltage and a monobloc.
> You might just need to change your uefi settings to make it run cooler, that 10 cores beast is hard to tame.


Ohhh! it didn't realize he was running a 10 core

hell no, 360mm + 480mm is not enough to tame that beast

the better choice is 4x 360mm in push/pull, but that means getting a bigger case that can take 4 big rads and its fans

... or maybe try getting a Chiller and hook it up as part of the loop


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> So i've had a terrible time with high temps on my CPU with my loop. Idle is fine, around 30-35C, but under load with like Cinebench it goes to around 80C despite me having a 480mm and a 360mm rad hooked up to just the CPU (no GPUs in the loop). *I found that my block was corroded and nickel plating was flaking etc..* so i got a new EK RVE-10 Monoblock to replace the Supremacy EVO i was running, and i got a new D5 pump to replace the old one in case that was bad.
> 
> Despite the new pump and new block i'm STILL getting temps close to 80C under cinebench load and can't for the life of me figure out what's causing it. I've tried swapping inlet and outlet ports, i've tried lowering voltages etc.. (even at total stock 3.5ghz on the 6950X it still gets ~68-70C under load which is way too high), i even tried changing out my PSU to a different one, i tried flushing the loop with vinegar/water mixture and flushing the rads as well etc.. Nothing works!
> 
> Anyone have any idea of what would be causing this? It's happened on three different CPUs so far, with two different blocks, and two different pumps. I even removed my 420mm radiator in case that was causing issues, leaving just the 480 and 360.


Out of curiosity, what were you using for coolant at the time?
And no silver kill coil, I hope.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Out of curiosity, what were you using for coolant at the time?
> And no silver kill coil, I hope.


Good question, I was suspecting that as well.

recently we've seen many guys here saying the same thing when they mix in silver into their loop with nickel plated blocks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quick question, is the loop completely bled? An airlock can cause abnormally high temps and you'd be none the wiser unless it's at the pump. Then you'd know cause it would make a heckuva racket.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> What is you water temperature?
> 
> I see a tube run between the Pump and the waterblock, is that the return line to the pump?


No, there is no tube between pump and block.

It goes: Reservoir --> Pump --> 360mm Rad in front --> 480mm Rad on top --> CPU block (monoblock now but it was a regular CPU block before) --> Reservoir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> It's perfectly normal to see such temp with such voltage and a monobloc.
> You might just need to change your uefi settings to make it run cooler, that 10 cores beast is hard to tame.


From what i've seen it isn't normal. I've checked with a bunch of other people with i7 6950X's on OCN (like JPMBoy, Martin, SilentScone etc..), they get ~60-65C at most even with Prime95, mine is getting to about 80C with a single quick 30 second Cinebench run. Martin was running just two 360mm rads on his loop too. And the monoblock doesn't really have an effect; i've tried with a regular Supremacy EVO (i bought a replacement block before switching to the monoblock) and the temps were still the same.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Ohhh! it didn't realize he was running a 10 core
> 
> hell no, 360mm + 480mm is not enough to tame that beast
> 
> the better choice is 4x 360mm in push/pull, but that means getting a bigger case that can take 4 big rads and its fans
> 
> ... or maybe try getting a Chiller and hook it up as part of the loop


That's just doesn't make sense, i had my previous 8 core 5960X at 4.6ghz with a whopping *1.46v* on just the 480mm and 360mm and my temps never went over ~60C or so. And like i said i used to have a 420mm rad in there to cool the 6950X as well (for a total of 1,260mm of rad space!); 4 x 360mm = 1,440mm so i'm literally only 180mm of space below that (and the temps were still ~75-80C even with the 480 + 420 + 360 setup)

Not to mention the 6950X is the sole component in the loop, i don't have any GPU's in the loop yet. According to what you're saying i would need something like 2,000mm of rad space to cool thye 6950X along with two TITAN XP's which i can see from other people's loops is not the case. For example, you can look on youtube and see people like JayzTwoCents running SLI overclocked TITAN XP's and an overclocked overvolted 5960X with only a 560 rad and a 480 rad. I guess i can try puting the 420 rad back in just in again just in case though.

Also, i have a Caselabs SMA8 so i can fit a 560 + 480 + 360 + 240 in there in total. If i really need more rad space i suppose i could do it but i seriously doubt it. I am considering a chiller though; although not because of you mentioning it, was just wanting to get one in general








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Out of curiosity, what were you using for coolant at the time?
> And no silver kill coil, I hope.


Pure distilled water, and no kill coil. (i just used Biocide) I always use distilled since it's easier to flush; i was planning white mayhem's for this build but haven't gotten around to using it and definitely won't till i get this sorted out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quick question, is the loop completely bled? An airlock can cause abnormally high temps and you'd be none the wiser unless it's at the pump. Then you'd know cause it would make a heckuva racket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That was my first thought; that it was just bubbles; but for some reason i can shake the case till i'm blue in the face and temps only stay the same, or get WORSE!! Like right now i see absolutely no bubbles in the block, i've shaken the rads and the case, i've cycled the pump etc.. and had the whole thing running for ~4-5 days near constantly so you'd think the air pockets would be gone, although you never know of course.


----------



## HeyThereGuy

Does EK sell a 90 degree fitting with two female connections? Wanting to connect two PETG tubes together with a 90 degree fitting. Thanks.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyThereGuy*
> 
> Does EK sell a 90 degree fitting with two female connections? Wanting to connect two PETG tubes together with a 90 degree fitting. Thanks.


Don't think EK makes them; but i'm pretty sure bitspower does.

EDIT: This is what i was thinking of.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-matte-black-enhance-90-degree-dual-multi-link-adapter.html

Pretty sure you can just combine a regular 90 degree female to female adapter and add two rigid compression fittings on the ends too.


----------



## Kimir

I don't know how can you get 60°c with "5960X at 4.6ghz with a whopping 1.46v" really.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



[email protected]



daily setting in comparison:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



[email protected]




That's what I get with 25°C ambient, 2 EK XE360 rad with EK Vardar ER @85% (1850rpm).
You took JPM as a example, he never ran prime95 and he has a huge loop even with a chiller turned on when needed on his bench table.

My 4930K, which is 6 cores, with the huge loop I have in my SMA8 doesn't get higher than 62°c with the same ambient and that's running with [email protected]
But hey, more cores, different architecture/lithography makes a difference.


----------



## Ceadderman

@DarkIdeals Have you tried putting a fitting with a tube somewhere in the loop and blowing into it? If there is indeed a airlock in your system, that will surely expose it. I would suggest an open spot on your Res to do so.









Also I would suggest that you leave a Res plug out on the top to allow any air to cycle out of the loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Not often I get to show off much EK goodness, but I went with an EK res for each of the S5 builds, and a classic dual white POM DDC pump top for a pair of 35X's for one of them . . . . If I could have found another one, I would have used the same top for both builds, but looks like I'll have to use something else for the other S5.

The 250 works just right, mounted transversely behind the full width front window. I need to bend up a tube in the morning and drill the passages in the base for the pump wires, but I'm pretty happy with it so far.

Hope you guys like it too . . . .

Darlene


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I don't know how can you get 60°c with "5960X at 4.6ghz with a whopping 1.46v" really.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> 
> daily setting in comparison:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I get with 25°C ambient, 2 EK XE360 rad with EK Vardar ER @85% (1850rpm).
> You took JPM as a example, he never ran prime95 and he has a huge loop even with a chiller turned on when needed on his bench table.
> 
> My 4930K, which is 6 cores, with the huge loop I have in my SMA8 doesn't get higher than 62°c with the same ambient and that's running with [email protected]
> But hey, more cores, different architecture/lithography makes a difference.


Well here's a pic that other users showed me of them running Cinebench on their 4.4ghz 1.367v 6950X's; see how his temps aren't over the mid 60's or so on any core and most are in the high 50's. And he's only got two 360 rads running.

http://cdn.overclock.net/e/e3/e372c5d1_ab3c4b4122.png

And JPM was showing me results without his chiller turned on as well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @DarkIdeals Have you tried putting a fitting with a tube somewhere in the loop and blowing into it? If there is indeed a airlock in your system, that will surely expose it. I would suggest an open spot on your Res to do so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I would suggest that you leave a Res plug out on the top to allow any air to cycle out of the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'll try that, thanks


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not often I get to show off much EK goodness, but I went with an EK res for each of the S5 builds, and a classic dual white POM DDC pump top for a pair of 35X's for one of them . . . . If I could have found another one, I would have used the same top for both builds, but looks like I'll have to use something else for the other S5.
> 
> The 250 works just right, mounted transversely behind the full width front window. I need to bend up a tube in the morning and drill the passages in the base for the pump wires, but I'm pretty happy with it so far.
> 
> Hope you guys like it too . . . .
> 
> Darlene


Wow!























Beautiful setup! Love the dual DDC top, the white is a nice touch! What mobo are you using? I bet the X99 Deluxe II would look gorgeous in there...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not often I get to show off much EK goodness, but I went with an EK res for each of the S5 builds, and a classic dual white POM DDC pump top for a pair of 35X's for one of them . . . . If I could have found another one, I would have used the same top for both builds, but looks like I'll have to use something else for the other S5.
> 
> The 250 works just right, mounted transversely behind the full width front window. I need to bend up a tube in the morning and drill the passages in the base for the pump wires, but I'm pretty happy with it so far.
> 
> Hope you guys like it too . . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beautiful setup! Love the dual DDC top, the white is a nice touch! What mobo are you using? I bet the X99 Deluxe II would look gorgeous in there...
Click to expand...

I have an X99 Deluxe II for the S8 chiller build, (which also has a lighted midplate, but the S5 is matx, so I have a M8 Gene for this one.

Been pondering the options for the second S5 build, but to go X99 in matx, you have to make some real concessions, so I'll probably go with another M8 Gene.

Darlene


----------



## Panther Al

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have an X99 Deluxe II for the S8 chiller build, (which also has a lighted midplate, but the S5 is matx, so I have a M8 Gene for this one.
> 
> Been pondering the options for the second S5 build, but to go X99 in matx, you have to make some real concessions, so I'll probably go with another M8 Gene.
> 
> Darlene


ASUS really does need to make another Rampage Gene board: the MATX version of the ASUS Workstation board is reportedly very nice, but...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have an X99 Deluxe II for the S8 chiller build, (which also has a lighted midplate, but the S5 is matx, so I have a M8 Gene for this one.
> 
> Been pondering the options for the second S5 build, but to go X99 in matx, you have to make some real concessions, so I'll probably go with another M8 Gene.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> ASUS really does need to make another Rampage Gene board: the MATX version of *the ASUS Workstation board is reportedly very nice*, but...
Click to expand...

I looked at that, but the M.2 only runs at X2, not X4.

For what the board costs, there's no excuse for that kind of short-coming.

Another consideration I have to keep in mind, is that with so much window area, the cooling is limited to a single 360 in the drives area, and while I can fairly easily get a 45mm thick one there, I'm going to have to experiment a bit to see if a 60mm thick one can make the squeeze.

A Z170 board with a 6700K and single GPU is probably a lot more in tune with what I can keep cool. . . . . Remember too, I'm in the tropics, and year round ambients here are brutal.

Darlene


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hope you guys like it too . . . .
> 
> Darlene


As always, great work Darlene....


----------



## Panther Al

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I looked at that, but the M.2 only runs at X2, not X4.
> 
> For what the board costs, there's no excuse for that kind of short-coming.
> 
> Another consideration I have to keep in mind, is that with so much window area, the cooling is limited to a single 360 in the drives area, and while I can fairly easily get a 45mm thick one there, I'm going to have to experiment a bit to see if a 60mm thick one can make the squeeze.
> 
> A Z170 board with a 6700K and single GPU is probably a lot more in tune with what I can keep cool. . . . . Remember too, I'm in the tropics, and year round ambients here are brutal.
> 
> Darlene


Agreed. I never could figure out why they made that slot X2. Makes no sense at all for a board that is supposedly top of the line. Honestly, not really sold on the idea that for the most part your average to somewhat serious power user would actually notice the deference 90% of the time, but that still is no excuse.

As for cooling, yeah.. keep forgetting you are in the tropics singing Margaritaville. ;P


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I looked at that, but the M.2 only runs at X2, not X4.
> 
> For what the board costs, there's no excuse for that kind of short-coming.
> 
> Another consideration I have to keep in mind, is that with so much window area, the cooling is limited to a single 360 in the drives area, and while I can fairly easily get a 45mm thick one there, I'm going to have to experiment a bit to see if a 60mm thick one can make the squeeze.
> 
> A Z170 board with a 6700K and single GPU is probably a lot more in tune with what I can keep cool. . . . . Remember too, I'm in the tropics, and year round ambients here are brutal.
> 
> Darlene


Darlene,

As always, amazing work! What build log is that again?

Erik


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I looked at that, but the M.2 only runs at X2, not X4.
> 
> For what the board costs, there's no excuse for that kind of short-coming.
> 
> Another consideration I have to keep in mind, is that with so much window area, the cooling is limited to a single 360 in the drives area, and while I can fairly easily get a 45mm thick one there, I'm going to have to experiment a bit to see if a 60mm thick one can make the squeeze.
> 
> A Z170 board with a 6700K and single GPU is probably a lot more in tune with what I can keep cool. . . . . Remember too, I'm in the tropics, and year round ambients here are brutal.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene,
> 
> As always, amazing work! What build log is that again?
> 
> Erik
Click to expand...

Haven't started a buildlog yet . . . .

I still have 1 more two-tone S5 coming from Caselabs . . . should have shipped the 21st of last month, but I got a "delayed 2 weeks" email instead of the "your order has shipped" email . . .

So it should ship this week, hopefully . . .

Once that ships, I'll start a log for the 3 ongoing builds, (two 2-tone S5's and a 2-tone S8S) since they are all kinda similar, and include a sort of a retro log for the S8 I already finished but never did a log for.

Darlene

As a little update;

I made the tube for the res to pump inlet and bored the passages in the base for the pump's cable management.

Will change out all the C47's to white when the next PPCs order comes.





The original S8 build, (far left) AKA the big "Jack In the Box" build


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Haven't started a buildlog yet . . . .
> 
> I still have 1 more two-tone S5 coming from Caselabs . . . should have shipped the 21st of last month, but I got a "delayed 2 weeks" email instead of the "your order has shipped" email . . .
> 
> So it should ship this week, hopefully . . .
> 
> Once that ships, I'll start a log for the 3 ongoing builds, (two 2-tone S5's and a 2-tone S8S) since they are all kinda similar, and include a sort of a retro log for the S8 I already finished but never did a log for.
> 
> Darlene


Awesome!


----------



## looniam

my $40 case is a little jelly . . .


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Haven't started a buildlog yet . . . .
> 
> I still have 1 more two-tone S5 coming from Caselabs . . . should have shipped the 21st of last month, but I got a "delayed 2 weeks" email instead of the "your order has shipped" email . . .
> 
> So it should ship this week, hopefully . . .
> 
> Once that ships, I'll start a log for the 3 ongoing builds, (two 2-tone S5's and a 2-tone S8S) since they are all kinda similar, and include a sort of a retro log for the S8 I already finished but never did a log for.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> As a little update;
> 
> I made the tube for the res to pump inlet and bored the passages in the base for the pump's cable management.
> 
> Will change out all the C47's to white when the next PPCs order comes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The original S8 build, (far left) AKA the big "Jack In the Box" build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The horizontal reservoir works perfectly with the window mod in the S5.









White tops, ddc accessories, and the incoming white Bitspower fittings are all appropriate.

Your lighted panels are making me want one again, I miss the sLight I had in the TJ07, this goes so much further, of course.
Kind of overshadows the simple white led strips I had planned to install, lol.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Haven't started a buildlog yet . . . .
> 
> I still have 1 more two-tone S5 coming from Caselabs . . . should have shipped the 21st of last month, but I got a "delayed 2 weeks" email instead of the "your order has shipped" email . . .
> 
> So it should ship this week, hopefully . . .
> 
> Once that ships, I'll start a log for the 3 ongoing builds, (two 2-tone S5's and a 2-tone S8S) since they are all kinda similar, and include a sort of a retro log for the S8 I already finished but never did a log for.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> As a little update;
> 
> I made the tube for the res to pump inlet and bored the passages in the base for the pump's cable management.
> 
> Will change out all the C47's to white when the next PPCs order comes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The original S8 build, (far left) AKA the big "Jack In the Box" build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The horizontal reservoir works perfectly with the window mod in the S5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White tops, ddc accessories, and the incoming white Bitspower fittings are all appropriate.
> 
> Your lighted panels are making me want one again, I miss the sLight I had in the TJ07, this goes so much further, of course.
> Kind of overshadows the simple white led strips I had planned to install, lol.
Click to expand...

The addressable LED strip has something like 300 sequences, some that lend themselves well to this project, others that don't, (it does let me make a "playlist with up to 16 to pick from) unfortunately, I never seem very good at getting them to look right on video, but you can get an idea.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The addressable LED strip has something like 300 sequences, some that lend themselves well to this project, others that don't, (it does let me make a "playlist with up to 16 to pick from) unfortunately, I never seem very good at getting them to look right on video, but you can get an idea.


Thanks for linking this latest video.

I have watched the earlier ones you made for the panels, it's good to see the current update.

I can see how there are far more sequences available than needed, but the playlist option certainly would present a good selection, imo.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Haven't started a buildlog yet . . . .
> 
> I still have 1 more two-tone S5 coming from Caselabs . . . should have shipped the 21st of last month, but I got a "delayed 2 weeks" email instead of the "your order has shipped" email . . .
> 
> So it should ship this week, hopefully . . .
> 
> Once that ships, I'll start a log for the 3 ongoing builds, (two 2-tone S5's and a 2-tone S8S) since they are all kinda similar, and include a sort of a retro log for the S8 I already finished but never did a log for.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> As a little update;
> 
> I made the tube for the res to pump inlet and bored the passages in the base for the pump's cable management.
> 
> Will change out all the C47's to white when the next PPCs order comes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The original S8 build, (far left) AKA the big "Jack In the Box" build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


All the cases are nice, but I love in special this custom made acrylic with custom made channels.

What tools did you use to drill those long holes? a regular drill bit?

and for tapping out the G1/4 threads did you use a regular tap bit for metal? did it require special attention when taping out acrylic... like cracking / breaking / chipping?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> All the cases are nice, but I love in special this custom made acrylic with custom made channels.
> 
> What tools did you use to drill those long holes? a regular drill bit?
> 
> and for tapping out the G1/4 threads did you use a regular tap bit for metal? did it require special attention when taping out acrylic... like cracking / breaking / chipping?


I second these questions.

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Waited so long to finally use this new mousepad and new mouse. Need to replace the keyboard though. Loop is all done. This loop is by far my most favorite. Won't be changing for a good while. Still deciding if it's worth it to open two new bottles of Pastel Ice White and red to top of the reservoirs.


----------



## emsj86

Top it off for sure than get something to store the excess. It will look a lot better topped off. You made it this far don't half res it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Top it off for sure than get something to store the excess. It will look a lot better topped off. *You made it this far don't half res it.*












That was a good one. Gotta give you a









TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Top it off for sure than get something to store the excess. It will look a lot better topped off. You made it this far don't half res it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was a good one. Gotta give you a
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Lol. I know right. Took me only about 13 months to figure it out







I have the coolants on hand, but don't know if I should just go ahead and do it. I would probably only use like 1/3 of it.


----------



## Kimir

Do it, it better to have more, you know it take more time to boil a great amount of water than a small one.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The addressable LED strip has something like 300 sequences, some that lend themselves well to this project, others that don't, (it does let me make a "playlist with up to 16 to pick from) unfortunately, I never seem very good at getting them to look right on video, but you can get an idea.


@IT Diva The "package" looks awesome and the assignable LEDS are a winner in my book








I assume you're running WS2812B strips (or similar, 2813 is new revision)
and
a USB to DMX or some other DMX controller







.
*EDIT:* Forgot - Arduino for control maybe ??

I'm awaiting delivery of some strips and a few various DMX items to experiment with.
This one I think will be the best of what I have coming, fingers crossed.
Could could fun OR most likely huge headaches to learn the DMX software









Can't be too many of these "fresh out of the box" left in the wild.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:
Originally Posted by *fast_fate* 

Quote:
Originally Posted by *IT Diva* 

The addressable LED strip has something like 300 sequences, some that lend themselves well to this project, others that don't, (it does let me make a "playlist with up to 16 to pick from) unfortunately, I never seem very good at getting them to look right on video, but you can get an idea.
*Warning: Spoiler!* (Click to show)With these LED strips:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019DYZNU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Keep us posted on how the DMX foray goes, I kinda took the easy way out on the controller part, until I see how it plays out a bit first.

Darlene


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I used these LED strips for the midplates to keep them as thin as possible, while being solid enough to support pumps and res's, and for the S8S, the exchangers:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019H7L2C6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Rather than spend a crapton of time writing code for an Arduino or a PIC, I just cheaped out and went with these:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Mokungit-WS2811-DC7-12V-Controller-Effects/dp/B01H3CEZDU/ref=pd_sbs_267_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=N6PP88PV40N4A9T9TBMQ&th=1
> 
> They just don't work for squat out of the box though, takes a bit of modding to make them work right, and keep from burning up.
> 
> I used the same controllers for the midplate and top panel in one of my X9 builds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With these LED strips:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019DYZNU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> Keep us posted on how the DMX foray goes, I kinda took the easy way out on the controller part, until I see how it plays out a bit first.
> 
> Darlene


Intending to install in my S8, so I'll keep the Salive8 log updated as I delve into it.
Along with the board I linked, I've got one of these on the way. Hopefully it will work with newer version of M$ Windows also.



USB, controller board and a splitter hub should be all the hardware required if I did my research right, plus the mixing/programming software.
I briefly tinkered with a free DMX controller software and made an S8 "stage out of rock show/gig light towers ect. Hit a stumbling block adding the LED strips to the chassis "stage" as all the "fixtures" I could find were stage lighting, smoke machines, gas flames ect








More research and tinkering on software needed.
The controller boards are daisy chain-able (like all DMX devices) allowing multiple "DMX universes" to be fired off independently and or simultaneously.
Overkill for PC lighting, but like you, I like the challenge of learning a new skill and that is half the point of giving DMX a go.









EDIT: I chose 5050 60 pixels p/m (on sale) strips. Your 1 meter of 144 pixels strip must be pretty power hungry (about 1 amp ??) for that poor little controller


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I used these LED strips for the midplates to keep them as thin as possible, while being solid enough to support pumps and res's, and for the S8S, the exchangers:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019H7L2C6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Rather than spend a crapton of time writing code for an Arduino or a PIC, I just cheaped out and went with these:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Mokungit-WS2811-DC7-12V-Controller-Effects/dp/B01H3CEZDU/ref=pd_sbs_267_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=N6PP88PV40N4A9T9TBMQ&th=1
> 
> They just don't work for squat out of the box though, takes a bit of modding to make them work right, and keep from burning up.
> 
> I used the same controllers for the midplate and top panel in one of my X9 builds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With these LED strips:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019DYZNU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> Keep us posted on how the DMX foray goes, I kinda took the easy way out on the controller part, until I see how it plays out a bit first.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Intending to install in my S8, so I'll keep the Salive8 log updated as I delve into it.
> Along with the board I linked, I've got one of these on the way. Hopefully it will work with newer version of M$ Windows also.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> USB, controller board and a splitter hub should be all the hardware required if I did my research right, plus the mixing/programming software.
> I briefly tinkered with a free DMX controller software and made an S8 "stage out of rock show/gig light towers ect. Hit a stumbling block adding the LED strips to the chassis "stage" as all the "fixtures" I could find were stage lighting, smoke machines, gas flames ect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More research and tinkering on software needed.
> The controller boards are daisy chain-able (like all DMX devices) allowing multiple "DMX universes" to be fired off independently and or simultaneously.
> Overkill for PC lighting, but like you, I like the challenge of learning a new skill and that is half the point of giving DMX a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I chose 5050 60 pixels p/m (on sale) strips. Your 1 meter of 144 pixels strip must be pretty power hungry (about 1 amp ??) for that poor little controller
Click to expand...

The 144LED/M strips are viciously power hungry, with 3 actual led junctions per "LED", so per pixel, R, B, & G at 20ma each for white, that's 60ma per IC, times 144, or almost 9A per strip from the power supply.

That's one of the controller mods, is to not have the power pass thru the controller PCB, it has to go directly to the strip, and then either back to the controller to power the controller, or power the controller separately from the main power input. The controller itself only needs a few ma.

I have one setup for a work in progress build with 4 of those strips as two parallel strips, each 2 meters long, and just one controller that runs off a dedicated 300W 5V Meanwell power supply, so the controller itself is pretty capable for being so cheap



If you can set it to white, where the power draw is at max, and not have it lock up from Vdrop, or make the wiring heat up, you're good to go.

Using the little controllers like they come out of the package, you're limited to about 30 LEDs, before it all starts going south.

Be aware that if you haven't started playing with them yet, you have to connect the controller to the right end of the strip, the strips should have arrows that point to the far end away from the controller input.


----------



## JunkStar

Back on page 1720 i posted a picture of particles that appeared in my front bay res. 2 weeks ago or so i finally got my EVGA 1080 FTW block in the mail and i had time to install it. When i drained the loop i found quite a bit of those fine particles through out my system and i dont really know what it is but my best guess is that its fine sand or something like that. I look like it has scratched all my acrylic parts and i had to change out all the tubing since it had a white tint after this. Funny thing is that i used EK Coolant and all EK parts except from 3 Aquacomputer sensors.

Pictures below


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!













Btw that GPU block is awsome!


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*
> 
> Back on page 1720 i posted a picture of particles that appeared in my front bay res. 2 weeks ago or so i finally got my EVGA 1080 FTW block in the mail and i had time to install it. When i drained the loop i found quite a bit of those fine particles through out my system and i dont really know what it is but my best guess is that its fine sand or something like that. I look like it has scratched all my acrylic parts and i had to change out all the tubing since it had a white tint after this. Funny thing is that i used EK Coolant and all EK parts except from 3 Aquacomputer sensors.
> 
> Pictures below
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw that GPU block is awsome!


Only thing i could think of would be left over material in the rads or something. If you didn't clean em at all when installing that would be my guess. Otherwise ive never seen such a thing in a cooling system, its quite off.


----------



## JunkStar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Only thing i could think of would be left over material in the rads or something. If you didn't clean em at all when installing that would be my guess. Otherwise ive never seen such a thing in a cooling system, its quite off.


What really worries me is that i did the "radiator dance" with hot tapwater and poured it into a white plastic bowl to look for gunk and then ran each rad with the pump and res combo to check for leaks before putting it in the case. At that point i ran it with LCMS grade MilliQ water... Maybe i should write EK support to see what they have to say about it...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Only thing i could think of would be left over material in the rads or something. If you didn't clean em at all when installing that would be my guess. Otherwise ive never seen such a thing in a cooling system, its quite off.
> 
> 
> 
> What really worries me is that i did the "radiator dance" with hot tapwater and poured it into a white plastic bowl to look for gunk and then ran each rad with the pump and res combo to check for leaks before putting it in the case. At that point i ran it with LCMS grade MilliQ water... Maybe i should write EK support to see what they have to say about it...
Click to expand...

One should never flush a Radiator with tap water for two reasons.

First you could burst your Radiator. Not all systems put the same psi out of the tap.

Secondly, it's getting to where tap water brings with it, high mineral content. My washing machine tub is coppery in color suggesting a high Iron imbalance. You'd be better off not flushing at all. No I don't and am not recommending that. Just pointing out that you're removing one or more deposits from the radiator, only to introduce another one or more deposits in place of that.

5gal bucket or twp, flex tubing and a filter of some sort that can catch smaller microns a spare pump. Connect the pump to the inlet from one bucket then run the next tube from the radiator to the 2nd bucket. Fill the pump bucket and watch the magic happen. Make sure to prime the pump and don't let it run dry.









~Ceadder


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> One should never flush a Radiator with tap water for two reasons.
> 
> First you could burst your Radiator. Not all systems put the same psi out of the tap.
> 
> Secondly, it's getting to where tap water brings with it, high mineral content. My washing machine tub is coppery in color suggesting a high Iron imbalance. You'd be better off not flushing at all. No I don't and am not recommending that. Just pointing out that you're removing one or more deposits from the radiator, only to introduce another one or more deposits in place of that.
> 
> 5gal bucket or twp, flex tubing and a filter of some sort that can catch smaller microns a spare pump. Connect the pump to the inlet from one bucket then run the next tube from the radiator to the 2nd bucket. Fill the pump bucket and watch the magic happen. Make sure to prime the pump and don't let it run dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yea but not everyone has the money or the room to use and even store stuff like that u know what i mean. I do agree that yea its the BEST method hands down. I boiled some distilled water, added vinegar and rinsed my 2 rads, then flushed it at very low pressure with tap water then rinsed with distilled again. After cleaning both an hr each, i still ended up with bit of paint flake/solder residue in my cpu block that i removed twice to clean. Good thing i bough a 5L bottle of distilled water.

But ive never seen sand before but i dont think its from tap water. Youd know just pouring a cup of water.


----------



## JunkStar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> One should never flush a Radiator with tap water for two reasons.
> 
> First you could burst your Radiator. Not all systems put the same psi out of the tap.
> 
> Secondly, it's getting to where tap water brings with it, high mineral content. My washing machine tub is coppery in color suggesting a high Iron imbalance. You'd be better off not flushing at all. No I don't and am not recommending that. Just pointing out that you're removing one or more deposits from the radiator, only to introduce another one or more deposits in place of that.
> 
> 5gal bucket or twp, flex tubing and a filter of some sort that can catch smaller microns a spare pump. Connect the pump to the inlet from one bucket then run the next tube from the radiator to the 2nd bucket. Fill the pump bucket and watch the magic happen. Make sure to prime the pump and don't let it run dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Our tap water here is exceptionally clean and i never put any pressure on the rads from the tap. Just let it flow naturally and afterwards i flushed it with purest water you can get (18M ohm MilliQ Water) to make sure to remove any remains of minerals from the tap water


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkStar*
> 
> Our tap water here is exceptionally clean and i never put any pressure on the rads from the tap. Just let it flow naturally and afterwards i flushed it with purest water you can get (18M ohm MilliQ Water) to make sure to remove any remains of minerals from the tap water


Id honestly contact ek, especially if you used their coolant thats just extremely odd.


----------



## AllGamer

Wow! that is a lot of Sand inside a loop.

How did that even get there, if the rads and stuff were already cleaned before using?


----------



## Ceadderman

I don't believe that EK uses sand in their manufacturing process.









I could be wrong, but for what possible reason could it be? It's not a dampener of heat and the manufacturing process for each radiator is pretty quick.

The only thing I can think of is that the sand is leftover from a sandblast cabinet and there was residue. But you'd think a heat and shake process would've cleared that.









~Ceadder


----------



## geox19

@JunkStar you have termites *** lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Did you use a coolant that contains a particulate? Because after going back and looking over the pics, that's what it reminds me of. Right down to the filmy residue inside the the top of that CPU block.

Seems to me you may have got a previously used Radiator if you didn't use Mayhems Pastel or some such coolant containing a particulate matter.









You know what? If you got it from somewhere else and you didn't use a Pastel coolant in it then I think that's exactly what I am looking at. That's not sand.









~Ceadder


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Did you use a coolant that contains a particulate? Because after going back and looking over the pics, that's what it reminds me of. Right down to the filmy residue inside the the top of that CPU block.
> 
> Seems to me you may have got a previously used Radiator if you didn't use Mayhems Pastel or some such coolant containing a particulate matter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You know what? If you got it from somewhere else and you didn't use a Pastel coolant in it then I think that's exactly what I am looking at. That's not sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Looks like he used distilled water??


I was thinking the same thing though about the coolant. I'm wonder what rad he used because I've flushed quite a bit of what looked to be sand out of Alphacool rads before.


----------



## hht92

Hi guys i want to know if the EK Predator 360 fits in the top of the Enthoo Pro.

I asked at the phanteks thread but no answer yet.

I will be grateful If anyone have photos.

Thanks in advance


----------



## looniam

if you don't get an answer here you can ask:

EK-Predator Club & Discussion Thread


----------



## Kronos8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Hi guys i want to know if the EK Predator 360 fits in the top of the Enthoo Pro.
> 
> I asked at the phanteks thread but no answer yet.
> 
> I will be grateful If anyone have photos.
> 
> Thanks in advance


According to Phanteks official specs, top radiator clearance 65mm to motherboard
According to EK site, predator's total thickness 68mm.
It looks very difficult


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kronos8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Hi guys i want to know if the EK Predator 360 fits in the top of the Enthoo Pro.
> 
> I asked at the phanteks thread but no answer yet.
> 
> I will be grateful If anyone have photos.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> According to Phanteks official specs, top radiator clearance 65mm to motherboard
> According to EK site, predator's total thickness 68mm.
> It looks very difficult
Click to expand...

...and don't forget the 25mm for the fans, making it aprox 93mm thick


----------



## Kronos8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> ...and don't forget the 25mm for the fans, making it aprox 93mm thick


68mm total thickness is 25mm fans plus rad, push only.
Push/pull is out of the question.


----------



## JunkStar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Looks like he used distilled water??
> 
> 
> I was thinking the same thing though about the coolant. I'm wonder what rad he used because I've flushed quite a bit of what looked to be sand out of Alphacool rads before.


Rad is a EK PE 240 https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-pe-240-dual
Coolant is EK premixed https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ekoolant-evo-clear-premix-1l

BTW everything is brand new from EK's own webshop


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Hi guys i want to know if the EK Predator 360 fits in the top of the Enthoo Pro.
> 
> I asked at the phanteks thread but no answer yet.
> 
> I will be grateful If anyone have photos.
> 
> Thanks in advance


No will not fit. The luxe yes the pro no. Honestly the LEO has very little room up top. I had to use a thin rad and one set of fans. The pump is the issue for why it won't fit.


----------



## Code-Red

Bought a x360 kit for whenever Zen arrives (waiting for a Fractal Define S to arrive too). $640CAD shipped to my door, DHL bent me over for $128 dollars in duties. Not impressed at all.

Happy to leave the AIO club, but didn't want to pay this much. My wallet was already dealing with anxiety over the cost of PC building these days.


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Code-Red*
> 
> Bought a x360 kit for whenever Zen arrives (waiting for a Fractal Define S to arrive too). $640CAD shipped to my door, DHL bent me over for $128 dollars in duties. Not impressed at all.
> 
> Happy to leave the AIO club, but didn't want to pay this much. My wallet was already dealing with anxiety over the cost of PC building these days.


Zen will require a new bracket I believe.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Should be available next week around Thursday.


Is this still accurate?


----------



## AcidNfection

Thx for the info!! Didn't know about Highflow nl either.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> No will not fit. The luxe yes the pro no. Honestly the LEO has very little room up top. I had to use a thin rad and one set of fans. The pump is the issue for why it won't fit.


Thanks for the answer.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Is this still accurate?


From the last I heard, yes.


----------



## AllGamer

the default G1/4 for most of the water cooling parts

is that 1/4 *NPT* or 1/4 *BSPP* ?


----------



## scgt1

Anyone running EK-XRES-100-REVO-D5-PWM or EK-XRES-140-REVO-D5-PWM in the PSU compartment of a 540 air? Could you supply some pictures and block/rad list?

I was running dual DDC's with XSPC res tops for separate cpu/mobo and gpu/m.2 ssd block but a few days back my 6 year old gpu pump blew up. Thinking of swapping to single loop with one of the above but have reserve's with the footprint/height (rough estimate of 4"x6" of space in front of the Revo 1050 psu I have installed) and ability for it do get the job done effectively with the blocks and rads.

Running factory Maximus VIII Formula mobo block Swiftech Apogee XT cpu block, EK 1080 FTW gpu block, Kryo m.2 ssd block, UT60 360mm rad, and RX480 external rad. 3/8 tubing with BP compressions. The external 480 utilizes Kooland QDC's.

Running a single D5 will clean up my tube routing quite a bit along with getting rid of some extra wires. I've seen a D5 installed above the PSU but I already have a hole cut in the middle of my plastic panel so would need the ability to mount in front of the psu so I can utilize that port vs drilling another hole in the back of the top panel. :-(


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> From the last I heard, yes.


one question akira
i see that a new water block its coming out for the asus edition 10



Still not compatible with the i/o shield which i guess its the led light under the motherboard right ?

The sense of this mb are the lights and the fact that i have to remove it its a no buy from me.

If there is a way to install it with the led light then im happy to buy it


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> one question akira
> i see that a new water block its coming out for the asus edition 10
> 
> Still not compatible with the i/o shield which i guess its the led light under the motherboard right ?
> 
> The sense of this mb are the lights and the fact that i have to remove it its a no buy from me.
> 
> If there is a way to install it with the led light then im happy to buy it


Just remove the heat pipe that runs under the I/O to the VRM.

Find a way to mount the I/O cover to the I/O and you're sorted.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> the default G1/4 for most of the water cooling parts
> 
> is that 1/4 *NPT* or 1/4 *BSPP* ?


BSPP


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> one question akira
> i see that a new water block its coming out for the asus edition 10
> 
> 
> 
> Still not compatible with the i/o shield which i guess its the led light under the motherboard right ?
> 
> The sense of this mb are the lights and the fact that i have to remove it its a no buy from me.
> 
> If there is a way to install it with the led light then im happy to buy it


Blame Asus for connecting the VRM heatsink to the I/O cover rather than the chipset heatsink as EVGA, Gigabyte and a few others do.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> From the last I heard, yes.


Hey I see you all announced the asus monoblock today. I was talking about the gigabyte designare motherboard. Is that still planned to come out today/soon?

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5811#ov


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> one question akira
> i see that a new water block its coming out for the asus edition 10
> 
> 
> 
> Still not compatible with the i/o shield which i guess its the led light under the motherboard right ?
> 
> The sense of this mb are the lights and the fact that i have to remove it its a no buy from me.
> 
> If there is a way to install it with the led light then im happy to buy it
> 
> 
> 
> Blame Asus for connecting the VRM heatsink to the I/O cover rather than the chipset heatsink as EVGA, Gigabyte and a few others do.
Click to expand...

Don't blame ASUS. Cause let's be honest, there is a good chance that ASUS has routed traces in that location to boost power at the socket and stabilizes Clocks. I'd rather not have to worry about throwing a bad clock due to lack of power than letting my eyes worry about a RGB cover that for all intents and purposes does jack doo doo.









But I hear ya VSG, I blame the others cause they don't more often than not.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Don't blame ASUS. Cause let's be honest, there is a good chance that ASUS has routed traces in that location to boost power at the socket and stabilizes Clocks. I'd rather not have to worry about throwing a bad clock due to lack of power than letting my eyes worry about a RGB cover that for all intents and purposes does jack doo doo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I hear ya VSG, I blame the others cause they don't more often than not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have the Rampage V Extreme and I can assure you there are no traces or anything in that area, the I/O cover is just an extended heatsink.


----------



## looniam

nevermind . .


----------



## davidm71

Hi,

Was wondering how much available width is available for a fancy SLI LED bridge to fit between the edge of the slot and the waterblock ports on the
EK CLASSY KPE Waterblocks for the 980 TI Kingpin cards? I'm a little worried that the SLI Bridge I want to buy will not fit in between.

Thanks


----------



## AllGamer

So, the EK Res / Pump combo came with both rings for the D5 motor.

The *soft ring* and the *rubber ring* that is installed by default.

Which one do you guys like more?

Would it be correct to assume the Soft One should vibrate less?


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> So, the EK Res / Pump combo came with both rings for the D5 motor.
> 
> The *soft ring* and the *rubber ring* that is installed by default.
> 
> Which one do you guys like more?
> 
> Would it be correct to assume the Soft One should vibrate less?


from what I've read, EK recommends using the pyramid style one when mounting vertical (for example with the reservoir) so I'd assume it dampens a bit better. I think they only mention vertical mount because in horizontal mount with separate reservoir it probably doesn't hold the pump as firmly and may vibrate out of place or something.

also of note, if it came with both rubber dampers then you got a G2 motor in your combo. (all currently shipping PWM units should be using the new motor but one of the stores near me had some old stock with the G1 motor and only one rubber damper)

Edit: also, I noticed current shipments of X-TOP Revo's (w/o pump) include both dampers too so probably even non-PWM combos provide both now as well


----------



## DarkIdeals

So is there any reason why a D5 (mcp655 style mounting bracket attached) would be leaking through the bottom (not the G1/4" ports, literally from the bottom threading etc.. of the housing) but the o-ring is still in perfect condition seemingly? Swapped to hardline tubing with primochill revolver fittings and PETG 1/2" OD and now my pump housing drips out of the bottom. i've tried re-assembling it damn near 20 times and nothing seems to fix it: i tighten it as much as i can, i try placing the o-ring differently, tried checking the o-ring for cracks (none that i saw) etc.. and nothing works. I'm kinda considering just getting the EK Dual Revo Serial pump top since i have two D5 pumps but i'd rather not if i could manage with just this. Unfortunately i'm doubtful about whether the housing is intact after it leaked with two different pumps and no apparent o-ring issues.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Sounds like a bad seal/o-ring to me


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Sounds like a bad seal/o-ring to me


Yeah but i checked the o-ring and it isn't cracked at all; and i tried re-seating the pump several times and even using two different pumps etc.. but it never stops leaking. It's driving me crazy; not sure if it's maybe the pump housing threading causing a problem or what. i've already spent far too much on my loop and having to buy a new pump top is something i was hoping to avoid; but it seems like i may have no choice if nobody has any ideas on what else it could be.

It's just so weird, the o-ring seems perfectly fine and i'm sealing the screw on ring as tightly as i can...there's just no reason why it should be leaking here.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Sounds like a bad seal/o-ring to me
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah but i checked the o-ring and it isn't cracked at all; and i tried re-seating the pump several times and even using two different pumps etc.. but it never stops leaking. It's driving me crazy; not sure if it's maybe the pump housing threading causing a problem or what. i've already spent far too much on my loop and having to buy a new pump top is something i was hoping to avoid; but it seems like i may have no choice if nobody has any ideas on what else it could be.
> 
> It's just so weird, the o-ring seems perfectly fine and i'm sealing the screw on ring as tightly as i can...there's just no reason why it should be leaking here.
Click to expand...

Some pics might help, but . . . . .

Are you by chance using an o ring for an aftermarket top with a stock top, or vice - versa . . .

The stock o ring is pretty fat, while most aftermarket tops use a significantly thinner one, and if you have a thin one where you need a fat one, it'll never get tight enough not to leak . . .

And if you have a fat one where the groove is made for a thinner one, it will never seat properly and likely always leak . . . .

And just to cover all the bases, you are putting the o ring so it seals against the stainless steel face, (impeller side) of the pump into the pump top . . .

You wouldn't be the first to put the o ring between the lock ring and the lip it presses against.

D.


----------



## maslows

I see tons of videos on how to bend petg, but I have acrylic 10/12 wasted an entire tube, initially my bend folded, not I keep getting bubbles. Any ideas, my initial attempt, I currently have a predator 360, so bleeding the air once everything is don't will be a bich


----------



## Kenjiwing

Hey I noticed that you all released the designare monoblock... its for the x99 one though









Is there plans to release one for the http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5811#ov which is the z170x?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Still wish there was going to be a RGB monoblock for the x99 Strix board, or if there is I'd love to have one to showcase


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have the Rampage V Extreme and I can assure you there are no traces or anything in that area, the I/O cover is just an extended heatsink.


Yeah, i'm not even sure what they're talking about it not being compatible. I'm using the RVE-10 monoblock right now and the i/o shield and heatsink etc.. are all attached perfectly. I just took the top VRM heatsink and the pipe off and left only the i/o heatsink and it fits fine.

Oh, also.. Anybody know whether these screws:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/screw-set-unc-6-32-30mm-20-pcs

would work for an EK XTC 420mm radiator? Or would i need something like this?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-rad-mount-m3-set-for-1-fan

Unsure of which to buy really.


----------



## Mega Man

derete


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Code-Red*
> 
> Bought a x360 kit for whenever Zen arrives (waiting for a Fractal Define S to arrive too). $640CAD shipped to my door, DHL bent me over for $128 dollars in duties. Not impressed at all.
> 
> Happy to leave the AIO club, but didn't want to pay this much. My wallet was already dealing with anxiety over the cost of PC building these days.
> 
> 
> 
> Zen will require a new bracket I believe.
Click to expand...

from what i see / know i doubt it.

they just made the wrath ( spelling ? ) cooler . and it looks the same
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> one question akira
> i see that a new water block its coming out for the asus edition 10
> 
> 
> 
> Still not compatible with the i/o shield which i guess its the led light under the motherboard right ?
> 
> The sense of this mb are the lights and the fact that i have to remove it its a no buy from me.
> 
> If there is a way to install it with the led light then im happy to buy it
> 
> 
> 
> Blame Asus for connecting the VRM heatsink to the I/O cover rather than the chipset heatsink as EVGA, Gigabyte and a few others do.
Click to expand...

or for the darn price of the mobos, they could just include a spare cover.... i mean come on ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maslows*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see tons of videos on how to bend petg, but I have acrylic 10/12 wasted an entire tube, initially my bend folded, not I keep getting bubbles. Any ideas, my initial attempt, I currently have a predator 360, so bleeding the air once everything is don't will be a bich


if it is kinking ( aka Folding ) pipe is not hot enough.

bubbling, your are trying ot get the pipe too hot, now the pipe may not be heating evenly. that can cause the outer section of the pipe to bubble ! slowly apply heat ( aka pull your tube further from the heat gun ! )


----------



## emsj86

Turn down the heat of the heat gym or put it on low. Rotate the pipe as you are heating it up and don't keep the heat in the same spot go back and forth. While doing that hold the pipe loosely until you feel it bending on itself. Than give it a little bend it should bend early if it does not keep heating. Also if it folded on itself did you use a silicone insert as it should very hard to have it fold on itself. My guess is too much heat and too much heat focused on one area. Give it another try


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Hey I noticed that you all released the designare monoblock... its for the x99 one though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there plans to release one for the http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5811#ov which is the z170x?


Oups! I always thought you were referring to the X99 version. We don't have plans to make one for the Z170 version unfortunately.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Yeah, i'm not even sure what they're talking about it not being compatible. I'm using the RVE-10 monoblock right now and the i/o shield and heatsink etc.. are all attached perfectly. I just took the top VRM heatsink and the pipe off and left only the i/o heatsink and it fits fine.
> 
> Oh, also.. Anybody know whether these screws:
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/screw-set-unc-6-32-30mm-20-pcs
> 
> would work for an EK XTC 420mm radiator? Or would i need something like this?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-rad-mount-m3-set-for-1-fan
> 
> Unsure of which to buy really.


The XTC radiator used the M3 threadind so you will need the M3 screws for it.


----------



## akira749

EK releases monoblocks for several GIGABYTE X99 motherboards


----------



## DarkIdeals

So if i bought one of these dual D5 Revo pump tops

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-serial.html

would there be a way to run it with only one pump in the case of one going bad? One of my two D5's isn't pushing water very well (there's a straight upwards section about ~6" long into a 90 degree going right into a radiator after leaving the pump; and when the pump is turned on it only pushes to around the 90 degree bend then stops and won't push anymore whereas my other D5 works fine)

I've got a leak in the pump housing somewhere (starting to think it's the G1/4" tapped fittings (i bought a modded MCP655 body that had G1/4" thread tapped into it, seems to maybe be leaking from there since the o-ring appears fine) and also the problem with the pump not pushing water even though it's a brand new pump. So i need a new pump top/housing to be able to use my PC while i send in this broken pump to PPCs and hope they don't fight me for a return; i'm just not sure if it's possible to use this dual pump top with only one pump without the other side being exposed to leakage etc.. since there's nothing sealing off the other side presumably.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> So if i bought one of these dual D5 Revo pump tops
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-serial.html
> 
> would there be a way to run it with only one pump in the case of one going bad? One of my two D5's isn't pushing water very well (there's a straight upwards section about ~6" long into a 90 degree going right into a radiator after leaving the pump; and when the pump is turned on it only pushes to around the 90 degree bend then stops and won't push anymore whereas my other D5 works fine)
> 
> I've got a leak in the pump housing somewhere (starting to think it's the G1/4" tapped fittings (i bought a modded MCP655 body that had G1/4" thread tapped into it, seems to maybe be leaking from there since the o-ring appears fine) and also the problem with the pump not pushing water even though it's a brand new pump. So i need a new pump top/housing to be able to use my PC while i send in this broken pump to PPCs and hope they don't fight me for a return; i'm just not sure if it's possible to use this dual pump top with only one pump without the other side being exposed to leakage etc.. since there's nothing sealing off the other side presumably.


well, assuming you have both D5 pumps installed, you could turn 1 pump OFF, and only use 1 pump to accomplish what you want.

or the proper way to use it, is to run Both D5 pumps at half speed, then they can both have a extended life, and still have a good water flow.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> So if i bought one of these dual D5 Revo pump tops
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-serial.html
> 
> would there be a way to run it with only one pump in the case of one going bad? One of my two D5's isn't pushing water very well (there's a straight upwards section about ~6" long into a 90 degree going right into a radiator after leaving the pump; and when the pump is turned on it only pushes to around the 90 degree bend then stops and won't push anymore whereas my other D5 works fine)


Are you sure you have positive water pressure to the pump's inlet? These pumps are not positive displacement, and if you do not have a positive pressure on the inlet, the pump will stop moving water.

Quote:


> I've got a leak in the pump housing somewhere (starting to think it's the G1/4" tapped fittings (i bought a modded MCP655 body that had G1/4" thread tapped into it, seems to maybe be leaking from there since the o-ring appears fine) and also the problem with the pump not pushing water even though it's a brand new pump. So i need a new pump top/housing to be able to use my PC while i send in this broken pump to PPCs and hope they don't fight me for a return; i'm just not sure if it's possible to use this dual pump top with only one pump without the other side being exposed to leakage etc.. since there's nothing sealing off the other side presumably.


You would have to replace the missing pump with a plate of some sort that would keep the water from pouring out.

Did PPCs mod the pump top for you? If so they may honor an RMA, though the modding agreement probably provides for all liability to be yours. If you modded it, you be SOL.

Why was there a need to tap G1/4 ports into the top?


----------



## thunderdump

I just built an EVGA GTX 1080 FTW SLI watercooled with all EK componenets, check out my time lapse build log and components list


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thunderdump*
> 
> I just built an EVGA GTX 1080 FTW SLI watercooled with all EK componenets, check out my time lapse build log and components list


Nice! video and good build of course


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thunderdump*
> 
> I just built an EVGA GTX 1080 FTW SLI watercooled with all EK componenets, check out my time lapse build log and components list


I agree, that is one fine build, and a really cool video, enjoyed watching that!

Rep+


----------



## AllGamer

Hey guys / gals.

I'm getting ready to start cleaning my EK Rads, and I'm trying to find an adapter from regular garden hose... i believe it's 3/4 (according to google) to G1/4 to hook up my Rads to the hot water and have them flushed and rinsed nicely.

I can't seem to find such adapter in homedepot, so I'm pondering if any of you might know.

Thanks


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Hey guys / gals.
> 
> I'm getting ready to start cleaning my EK Rads, and I'm trying to find an adapter from regular garden hose... i believe it's 3/4 (according to google) to G1/4 to hook up my Rads to the hot water and have them flushed and rinsed nicely.
> 
> I can't seem to find such adapter in homedepot, so I'm pondering if any of you might know.
> 
> Thanks


You can get adapters to convert from your sink faucet to a standard garden hose.

Then get some 1/2" hose at home depot or the like, usually comes in a 10' roll for a few dollars I just use their 1/2 X 5/8 clear tubing.

Use a "garden hose connector repair/replacement kit" for 1/2" hose on the one end of a few feet of the tubing You can get the garden hose end connectors in plastic for a few dollars, probably at home depot or similar as well.

Then use a barb fitting for 1/2" soft tubing to G1/4 on the rad end

And a second barb and piece of tubing on the other rad port back to the sink

I'm at work, so I don't have a pic to post, but it's pretty self explanatory.

Darlene


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You can get adapters to convert from your sink faucet to a standard garden hose.
> 
> Then get some 1/2" hose at home depot or the like, usually comes in a 10' roll for a few dollars
> 
> Use a "garden hose connector repair/replacement kit" for 1/2" hose on the one end of a few feet of the tubing You can get the garden hose end connectors in plastic for a few dollars, probably at home depot or similar as well.
> 
> Then use a barb fitting for 1/2" soft tubing to G1/4 on the rad end
> 
> And a second barb and piece of tubing on the other rad port back to the sink










as usual thanks for confirming.

I was planning to use a Barb fitting to do the trick, if I couldn't find an adapter for it









get a soft hose to barb one side with the G1/4 fitting, and setup the other end with a garden hose repair kit (barb).

which I don't have any at the moment, so I'll have to pick up a couple of G1/4 barb before I can continue.


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

Gentlemen, for a 4930K overclocked + a GTX 1060 or 970, can I get away with a Predator 240 or is it better to go 240 + 240 or just 280 (which cost slightly less than the 2x 240 option but has significantly less headroom)? EKWB support advised me to get a 360 or a 280, but seeing the total cost now, and how all those small bits add up, I'm wondering what is the most cost-effective way to go about this.

Look at this build:

https://www.ekwb.com/blog/l3peau-by-l3p/

A mere 240 for a 4790K and a Titan X! How does it work? Seems to contradict the above opinion of the tech support, doesn't it?


----------



## AllGamer

for adequate cooling I'll suggest 240 + 240 if you are overclocking

you could get away with a single 280 if you run it at stock speed, if you do Not overclock.


----------



## nzphil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> Gentlemen, for a 4930K overclocked + a GTX 1060 or 970, can I get away with a Predator 240 or is it better to go 240 + 240 or just 280 (which cost slightly less than the 2x 240 option but has significantly less headroom)? EKWB support advised me to get a 360 or a 280, but seeing the total cost now, and how all those small bits add up, I'm wondering what is the most cost-effective way to go about this.
> 
> Look at this build:
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/blog/l3peau-by-l3p/
> 
> A mere 240 for a 4790K and a Titan X! How does it work? Seems to contradict the above opinion of the tech support, doesn't it?


It all depends on what temps you want to get, how much you plan to overclock and how fast or slow you want to run your fans. If it was me i'd go with 240 + 240 but it's totally up to want you want from your build.


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

OK to be honest with you I want silence and headroom of course, it's a pretty expensive adventure and it's not wise to save 20-30% to miss the main point









What about 1 x 360 vs 2 x 240? And 280 push-pull?


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> OK to be honest with you I want silence and headroom of course, it's a pretty expensive adventure and it's not wise to save 20-30% to miss the main point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What about 1 x 360 vs 2 x 240? And 280 push-pull?


there is ~50-~60 watts difference between the 970 and 1060; of course depending on *which* cards YMMV.

w/970 look at 2x240 w/1060 you may well get away w/the 1x360.

push/pull adds noise . . . after a point.

what case? could you add a 240 if the 360 isn't up to snuff?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> OK to be honest with you I want silence and headroom of course, it's a pretty expensive adventure and it's not wise to save 20-30% to miss the main point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What about 1 x 360 vs 2 x 240? And 280 push-pull?


Any combination of those should be plenty. Shouldn't even need push-pull because that will just add to the noise.


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

Now I'm completely lost









looniam there is no case, one will be built to be as compact as possible for an mATX board. 360 + 240 will be crazy expensive already, I'm nearing the 300 euro mark and it looks like it's going to get crossed with the smaller setups.

Radnad what combination exactly, I listed 3 options, only one of which involved 2 rads, the other two being single-rad setups, so the term "combination" doesn't really apply.


----------



## IchiRuki

Hello,

sorry to barge in here but I would like your opinions and even some help with routing my PETG tubing. I kinda didnt plan it out right (I think)... is there something I can improve in the layout? Thank you


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> Now I'm completely lost
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looniam there is no case, one will be built to be as compact as possible for an mATX board. 360 + 240 will be crazy expensive already, I'm nearing the 300 euro mark and it looks like it's going to get crossed with the smaller setups.
> 
> Radnad what combination exactly, I listed 3 options, only one of which involved 2 rads, the other two being single-rad setups, so the term "combination" doesn't really apply.


a Budget of 300 euro ($330) will not get you much, the most basic setup cost you just that (actually more), but the expect Temperature for a Basic setup is pretty high, better than air, but still high for a water cooled PC.

if your target is 30C to 40C you'll need some serious investments.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> Now I'm completely lost
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looniam there is no case, one will be built to be as compact as possible for an mATX board. 360 + 240 will be crazy expensive already, I'm nearing the 300 euro mark and it looks like it's going to get crossed with the smaller setups.
> 
> Radnad what combination exactly, I listed 3 options, only one of which involved 2 rads, the other two being single-rad setups, so the term "combination" doesn't really apply.


Any of these combinations should be plenty to achieve what you want.

360+240
360+280
280+240
240+240

If you really want dead silence like you mentioned it would be best to go with a 2 rad setup. One 360 would cool it but you might get fan noise under heavy loads. BTW, remember nothing is cheap in water cooling.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IchiRuki*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> sorry to barge in here but I would like your opinions and even some help with routing my PETG tubing. I kinda didnt plan it out right (I think)... is there something I can improve in the layout? Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


is that a Parallel or Serial EK bridge for the video cards?

well regardless a logical flow I'd do is as follow:

1. From Top Rad To CPU
2. CPU to SLI Bridge
3. SLI Bridge to bottom Rad
4. Bottom Rad to Res
5. Res to pump
6. pump to Top Rad

scratch that, looking at it again, it will make more sense to go from bottom up, instead of top to bottom.

1. So it'll start from Res to pump
2. pump to bottom Rad
3. Bottom Rad to SLI Bridge
4. SLI bridge to CPU
5 CPU to Top Rad
6. Top Rad to Res


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

AllGamer, the Predator cost under 140 now and that gives me a real pump, rad, and a CPU waterblock, that allows vast expansion according to the manual. According to the reviews, the temperatures are identical to a full-fledged loop, so it's a good starting point.

Radnad, ok, clear now







Nevermind, I'm a programmer, dead boring guy when it comes to discussing all those little details in the wording


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IchiRuki*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> sorry to barge in here but I would like your opinions and even some help with routing my PETG tubing. I kinda didnt plan it out right (I think)... is there something I can improve in the layout? Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think your going to have to move that pump, the outlet is in the worst possible place, or get a shorter res. That looks like parallel bridge, correct?

EDIT: Is your PSU even going to fit in there with that rad like that?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> AllGamer, the Predator cost under 140 now and that gives me a real pump, rad, and a CPU waterblock, that allows vast expansion according to the manual. According to the reviews, the temperatures are identical to a full-fledged loop, so it's a good starting point.
> 
> Radnad, ok, clear now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nevermind, I'm a programmer, dead boring guy when it comes to discussing all those little details in the wording


hmm... I would not recommend the Predator... while it's water cooling, that's more of an AIO, its expansion are rather limited.

I'll suggest one of this https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-p240
plus an extra 240 or 360 rad on the side.

that means 2 more tubes and 2 more fittings.


----------



## IchiRuki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> is that a Parallel or Serial EK bridge for the video cards?
> 
> well regardless a logical flow I'd do is as follow:
> 
> 1. From Top Rad To CPU
> 2. CPU to SLI Bridge
> 3. SLI Bridge to bottom Rad
> 4. Bottom Rad to Res
> 5. Res to pump
> 6. pump to Top Rad


Hey,

It is parallel







and thank you


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IchiRuki*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> It is parallel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and thank you


ooops! looks like you replied before I edited.

I added this:

scratch that, looking at it again, it will make more sense to go from bottom up, instead of top to bottom.

1. So it'll start from Res to pump
2. pump to bottom Rad
3. Bottom Rad to SLI Bridge
4. SLI bridge to CPU
5 CPU to Top Rad
6. Top Rad to Res


----------



## IchiRuki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> ooops! looks like you replied before I edited.
> 
> I added this:
> 
> scratch that, looking at it again, it will make more sense to go from bottom up, instead of top to bottom.
> 
> 1. So it'll start from Res to pump
> 2. pump to bottom Rad
> 3. Bottom Rad to SLI Bridge
> 4. SLI bridge to CPU
> 5 CPU to Top Rad
> 6. Top Rad to Res


Yeah, I am lurking for each reply







thank you for the edit, this seems very doable


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

AllGamer, I have to disagree, to quote the manual:

EK-IM-3831109863343.pdf

Quote:


> The EK-XLC Predator 240 is capable to cope with expansion of the system with one additional waterblock, radiator and reservoir (optional).


Quote:


> The EK-XLC Predator 360 (incl. QDC) is capable to cope with expansion of the system with additional 2 (two) waterblocks and 1 (one) radiator.


Which means the pump is strong enough. The kits are too expensive compared to the Predator in my opinion while offering no real benefits. The Predator used to cost about the same until recently.

Visited the link, 262 euro, no way I'm getting that when the Predator allows me to have a double 240 setup for 50 more









Edit: Well, got me thinking anyway, thanks for all the hints!


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> Now I'm completely lost
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looniam there is no case, one will be built to be as compact as possible for an mATX board. 360 + 240 will be crazy expensive already, I'm nearing the 300 euro mark and it looks like it's going to get crossed with the smaller setups.


as radnad mentioned:
Quote:


> One 360 would cool it but you might get fan noise under heavy loads.


right now i am running an i7-2600K and 980TI w/280 push and does a *sufficient* job. you would be putting out a bit my heat with a socket 2011, even with a pascal card. so you would propably like more rad than a single 280 and possible a 360.

a 280 predator would be fine for a socket 115x and mid range gpu (GP 104 chip) but that 2011 socket can put out some heat when OCed.


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

Oh OK, I've been using the TechPowerUp article on the 5820K as the reference, where they achieved a peak system power consumption of 200W for the 4930K @ 4.5 GHz under prime95. Adding a 1060 here with the maximum potential power consumption of, let's say, 160 watts, because NVIDIA lies with the 120W and we want to overclock it, that adds to a 360W under some crazy simultaneous load that would only come from a synthetic benchmark. That gives 360W peak and more like 250-280W heavy load, i.e. gaming. Based on this, we can estimate the necessary rad space for silent operation.

Is it possible to get a way with just this:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-d5-pwm-plexi-incl-pump

without a dedicated res for a while if the pump is placed correctly? As far as I understand, the res mainly serves as an air bleeding zone, correct? Would like to make a custom res later on (really into making stuff you see, whole family into it







) and if I weer to go the custom kit route, wouldn't like to spend extra on a res that would get ditched later.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> AllGamer, I have to disagree, to quote the manual:
> 
> _EK-IM-3831109863343.pdf_
> 
> Which means the pump is strong enough. The kits are too expensive compared to the Predator in my opinion while offering no real benefits. The Predator used to cost about the same until recently.
> 
> Visited the link, 262 euro, no way I'm getting that when the Predator allows me to have a double 240 setup for 50 more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Well, got me thinking anyway, thanks for all the hints!


yes, on paper it sounds great.

but in practice you'll be better off to start with a real water cooling kit, instead of the _*Expandable AIO*_

I started water cooling using AIO, after a while the limitations became very evident, so I did also consider upgrading to the EK Predators and/or Swiftech AIO,
but then once I started changing parts, and the tubing, fittings, fittings, etc... it added up to the cost of an authentic Water cooling kit.

So, I went with the real deal instead, then I was able to fully customize which parts I wanted to use, instead of settling for the default.

Feel free to experiment and start with the Predators, eventually you'll want to move into the bigger stuff .

You'll be back


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

Haha yeah mate sure I've been through the "oh well let's get this we don't need the greatest part" thing with mountain bikes, starting off with a commuter, then on to a simple cross-country aluminum frame stock, and ended up building a custom carbon racing bike for mother to ride around every day same way as others would drive around in a car









So I know it's better to hold your breath and pay right in the very beginning than run around in circles later thinking how to sell all the parts







But, I want to be sure there is a real difference, and understand what it is about.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Oh OK, I've been using the TechPowerUp article on the 5820K as the reference, where they achieved a peak system power consumption of 200W for the 4930K @ 4.5 GHz under prime95. Adding a 1060 here with the maximum potential power consumption of, let's say, 160 watts, because NVIDIA lies with the 120W and we want to overclock it, that adds to a 360W under some crazy simultaneous load that would only come from a synthetic benchmark. That gives 360W peak and more like 250-280W heavy load, i.e. gaming. Based on this, we can estimate the necessary rad space for silent operation.
> 
> Is it possible to get a way with just this:
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-d5-pwm-plexi-incl-pump
> 
> 
> 
> without a dedicated res for a while if the pump is placed correctly? As far as I understand, the res mainly serves as an air bleeding zone, correct? Would like to make a custom res later on (really into making stuff you see, whole family into it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and if I weer to go the custom kit route, wouldn't like to spend extra on a res that would get ditched later.


ohh... if you are into custom making your own Res, then check out this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1612160/custom-water-cooling-parts/0_50#post_25561924

it made me want to make my own as well.... when I really have free time, with nothing else to do.

Yes you can technically skip the Res, but it'll be PITA to fill the loop.
Heck, if you want to save on cost, you can make a Res out of a Milk carton or a Beer can








just make a hole for the inlet / outlet G1/4 and you're done.

with something like this  a Panel QDC fitting.


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

FFS don't get me started on Koolance mate









BTW I imagine bleeding the loop is similar to bleeding hydraulic brakes, isn't it?

Reading the link! Yeah my dream is a custom watercooled case with a sort of waterfall or such effect.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> Haha yeah mate sure I've been through the "oh well let's get this we don't need the greatest part" thing with mountain bikes, starting off with a commuter, then on to a simple cross-country aluminum frame stock, and ended up building a custom carbon racing bike for mother to ride around every day same way as others would drive around in a car
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I know it's better to hold your breath and pay right in the very beginning than run around in circles later thinking how to sell all the parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, I want to be sure there is a real difference, and understand what it is about.


maybe give this a look:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-l360-r2-0

what were you going to use for the graphics card?

a uniblock (vga supremacy or thermoshere) would cover all your bases.


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

That kit seems to have the same pump, rad and CPU block as the Predator so to me it's inferior given the non-compact external pump-res placement and higher cost. An identical Predator cost only 188 euro.

Well, a 1060 or if I find a 1070 real cheap, use that. I don't need that much of a GPU because I'm not really a gamer, only playing various Battlefield titles but playing them pretty well, so care for a high FPS. And since Battlefield is easy on the GPU, and not so on the CPU, I'd be fine with a 1060. You know, using a 1070 feels like a waste and overkill to me. Well, other than that, I want to get back in 3ds Max, and a decent GPU would help a lot with the renders, the GPGPU thing, but it looks like any Pascal is a pass in that regard.

Yes I'll be getting the Thermosphere, the only concern I have is with the VRM and VRAM cooling, though seeing how https://www.ekwb.com/blog/yellow-master-by-paul-venegas/ is using the Thermosphere, it probably isn't a concern with the Pascal cards.

Put a 2-rad kit together from scratch, 414 euro, no way, sure. Sticking with the Predator which in a 2-rad configuration amounts to 295 euro.


----------



## emsj86

Battlefield is easy on the gpu and not the cpu? I think you got that backwards. What you are asking to what you want is not really possible with the money you wanna put into it. Honestly air would give you close to the same results with the money being invested.


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

Why, given the deal on the Predator, it's quite possible, I think.

Yeah you got that right, it's a CPU-intensive game, one that scales well across cores so it's not as noticeable as with some other titles that max out 2 cores and force people to upgrade to Skylake (maybe on purpose?). I've been playing it on lows 1600x1200 with a GTX 460 and it's been like 60-80 FPS more or less, try that with a newer game


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> Why, given the deal on the Predator, it's quite possible, I think.
> 
> Yeah you got that right, it's a CPU-intensive game, one that scales well across cores so it's not as noticeable as with some other titles that max out 2 cores and force people to upgrade to Skylake (maybe on purpose?). I've been playing it on lows 1600x1200 with a GTX 460 and it's been like 60-80 FPS more or less, try that with a newer game


What game(s) have maxed out cores? And what processor are you using?

TCO


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

What games - seen some reviews where there were games that would only tax 2 cores and run into a "bottleneck", can't name sadly because I'm not interested in anything except Battlefield.

What CPU - used to have an X5650 @ 4 GHz, right now bulding around a 3930K and planning to swap it out for a 4930K for significantly reduced power consumption.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> What games - seen some reviews where there were games that would only tax 2 cores and run into a "bottleneck", can't name sadly because I'm not interested in anything except Battlefield.
> 
> What CPU - used to have an X5650 @ 4 GHz, right now bulding around a 3930K and planning to swap it out for a 4930K for significantly reduced power consumption.


I run a 5930k and Played the Battlefield 1 Beta. There weren't any cores maxed out during the beta, nor would I think that they will be after the game releases, but I am sure you already knew that.









TCO


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

Yeah exactly DICE LA do their job. Played BF1, ran into some real GPU lag, resorted to a smallish window







The Westmere monster was enjoying himself and laughing at the poor Fermi unit.

Was referring to some other titles. I mean, how more silly can it get when 100 GFLOPS aren't enough for a game, or when AVX isn't utilized properly?

Edit: So now I'm completely torn whether or not I should go water or stay on air, or maybe watercool the CPU with the cheapest Predator and just get a blower style 1070 with the saved money, and make an air corridor for it like in a server?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> Yeah exactly DICE LA do their job. Played BF1, ran into some real GPU lag, resorted to a smallish window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Westmere monster was enjoying himself and laughing at the poor Fermi unit.
> 
> Was referring to some other titles. I mean, how more silly can it get when 100 GFLOPS aren't enough for a game, or when AVX isn't utilized properly?
> 
> Edit: So now I'm completely torn whether or not I should go water or stay on air, or maybe watercool the CPU with the cheapest Predator and just get a blower style 1070 with the saved money, and make an air corridor for it like in a server?


Just try air at first... Not sure the need for watercooling if you are only going to cool one component.

Logically, a waterloop is incorporated for both components. Since most GPU's are sold air cooled, the loop is extended to include the GPU. A liquid cooled loop is put on a processor to oveclock and allow more headroom on voltage.

TCO


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

Exactly, I'm tired of noise, the 4930K is going to be overclocked and I want it to live a long happy life, and then, well, this is going to be subjective, but imagine an ugly fat cooler obscuring the Rampage IV Gene! No freaking way, I say.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> Exactly, I'm tired of noise, the 4930K is going to be overclocked and I want it to live a long happy life, and then, well, this is going to be subjective, but imagine an ugly fat cooler obscuring the Rampage IV Gene! No freaking way, I say.


So what are you going to get?

TCO


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

That's a question I must answer myself first







Look, here's the thought process.

A dual rad setup based on a Predator with an added Thermosphere amounts to 295 euro. Then, a similar setup built from the ground up costs a whooping 415 euro. (Yeah money is sinking like water into the desert sand.) Now, a Predator with 4 additional fans for cooling the case and making the said air corridor is 190 euro. We can maybe strip 2 fans, but I wouldn't do that cause otherwise there would be no proper front / bottom air intake. The 100 difference is exactly the difference between an 1060 and a 1070. Should be a better decision I guess? Question is, if the 1070 chip is going ot be happy with a good blower, be it NVIDIA reference or a reference style one like the MSI Aero. (Had an MSI blower once on the 970, returned it due to a high-pitched motor whine, was absolutely unbearable in silence, so the MSI Aero may be a trap, too.)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I would go with the first option, and or save a little more cash and do a custom loop.

Quote:


> A dual rad setup based on a Predator with an added Thermosphere amounts to 295 euro


Reason being, is that the more you think about it, the more money you will spend.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I would go with the first option, and or save a little more cash and do a custom loop.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A dual rad setup based on a Predator with an added Thermosphere amounts to 295 euro
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Having installed and put one through its paces on a 4790k under full load, I can honestly say there are worse options for cooling a high end GPU.

Under full load 4790k with stock cooling was hitting roughly 65c or more. Got really close to the tjmax of the CPU.

With that CPU and a 390 Nitro blasting heat underneath it at full load the Predator doesn't even come close to 50c.

I would rather do a custom loop myself. But some PC enthusiasts don't wish to tempt the Gods and just want something they can bolt in place and forget.

The Predator I have experience with is the 240 v1.1. It's more than enough to cool a high end enthusiast card.









~Ceadder


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

Is that you Ceadder, didn't recognize given the ave change









Alright so let's decipher your message that feels a little cryptic to me







You had an air cooled 4790K and ran AVX on that (I reckon) and it would overheat. Then, you installed a Predator 240, and it became all so cool (pun intended) and nice, right? Now where was the 390 at that moment, was it aircooled or watercooled and in the loop with the CPU? What I'm missing is the connection between the Predator cooling the CPU and the conclusion that it's enough for a high end GPU. Mind you, I'd like to make it cool both a 4930K overclocked and a GPU like a 1060, not just the GPU!

TCO, why are you voting against the third option, which seems to give the best bang for the buck?


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> *That kit seems to have the same pump, rad and CPU block as the so to me it's inferior given the non-compact external pump-res placement and higher cost. An identical Predator cost only 188 euro.
> *
> Well, a 1060 or if I find a 1070 real cheap, use that. I don't need that much of a GPU because I'm not really a gamer, only playing various Battlefield titles but playing them pretty well, so care for a high FPS. And since Battlefield is easy on the GPU, and not so on the CPU, I'd be fine with a 1060. You know, using a 1070 feels like a waste and overkill to me. Well, other than that, I want to get back in 3ds Max, and a decent GPU would help a lot with the renders, the GPGPU thing, but it looks like any Pascal is a pass in that regard.
> 
> Yes I'll be getting the Thermosphere, the only concern I have is with the VRM and VRAM cooling, though seeing how https://www.ekwb.com/blog/yellow-master-by-paul-venegas/ is using the Thermosphere, it probably isn't a concern with the Pascal cards.
> 
> Put a 2-rad kit together from scratch, 414 euro, no way, sure. Sticking with the Predator which in a 2-rad configuration amounts to 295 euro.


that is NOT the same pump!

look, i'm trying to save you a headache later:
http://thermalbench.com/2016/02/11/ek-predator-240mm-aio-cpu-cooler/5/ (a 240 review but same pump as in all predators)
Quote:


> The pump consumed a max operation current of 467 mA (5.6 W) during the testing which is close to the rated 6 W of power draw for the pump. We see that the pump goes from 3080 RPM at 100% PWM to 1260 RPM at 25% PWM signal before staying at the same speed till 1%. As such, the PWM duty cycle for this particular pump is 25-100% and the RPM response was also extremely linear as you can see. It's not very loud either, and came in at similar noise levels to Asetek 4th and 5th generation pumps in CLCs I have tested out. The flow rates weren't great by any means, however, topping out at 0.6 GPM (136 LPH) here. Even accounting for the rotameter that has been tested to have next to no effect on liquid flow, this is where the Predator unit is beat out by the pump on the Swiftech H220-X offering which hit 0.9-1 GPM despite the more restrictive CPU block. *As such, adding another block to the Predator and potentially also QDCs would further limit flow. I do not know how restrictive the CPC QDCs are in the newer Predator 240 QDC version, and also in the Predator 360* *but this will be a limitation when expanding the Predator if another pump is not added to help with flow.* It can handle an additional high flow GPU block though- I did an expansion test with a Swiftech Komodo R9-LE full cover GPU block for the AMD reference R9 290(x) and the max flow rate decreased from 0.6 to 0.5 GPM.


you can also look on p.3 for a tear down.

also addin the reservoir that comes with the pump; if you are going to add anything you WILL get air as reservoir helps protect the pump from it. if you want silence, NO AIO will compare to a custom loop.

if you come to a custom cooling thread and just shoot down people's suggests, maybe you're in the wrong thread.

let me help you with that:
EK-Predator Club & Discussion Thread


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

Well, the Predator is an EK product, thus this is a valid subforum, isn't it? OK, didn't know about the Predator thread, will check it out.

+rep for the detailed rundown of the pump, exactly what i was looking for and afraid of.

Looks like there are 2 options left now, custom loop for both components or CPU only Predator.


----------



## looniam

aarrrggghhh . .nevermind. me panties might have collected together in me rear for a minute.









sorry and your welcome(?)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> Is that you Ceadder, didn't recognize given the ave change
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Alright so let's decipher your message that feels a little cryptic to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You had an air cooled 4790K and ran AVX on that (I reckon) and it would overheat. Then, you installed a Predator 240, and it became all so cool (pun intended) and nice, right? Now where was the 390 at that moment, was it aircooled or watercooled and in the loop with the CPU? What I'm missing is the connection between the Predator cooling the CPU and the conclusion that it's enough for a high end GPU. Mind you, I'd like to make it cool both a 4930K overclocked and a GPU like a 1060, not just the GPU!
> 
> 
> 
> TCO, why are you voting against the third option, which seems to give the best bang for the buck?


For me there is only one option. Full Custom Loop. If you get an AIO, the only thing that I could see happening, is expansion later on to a custom loop. A person becomes infatuated with improvement. Deltas, cooling power, water temps... etc. It just starts spiraling.

In my SMA8 I spent 3500 USD alone on the watercooling, not including the components.

So 300 USD on a predator or whatnot is easy money.... real easy.

TCO


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

Well. Once I get a job again (being a poor student .. ok well not so poor but no spending on such stuff without a job is my personal rule) so yeah if I removed the psychological limits on this.. there would be a full Koolance build, not a Predator with a lonely Thermosphere









Hear ya. Hear ya well but this what you mean just won't happen today, I think. It most probably will, but later. OK, back to thinking really well, sadly I can't just turn on the PC since the 1366 mount is incompatible with the 2011 socket. Thanks for getting me thinking!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> Is that you Ceadder, didn't recognize given the ave change
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright so let's decipher your message that feels a little cryptic to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You had an air cooled 4790K and ran AVX on that (I reckon) and it would overheat. Then, you installed a Predator 240, and it became all so cool (pun intended) and nice, right? Now where was the 390 at that moment, was it aircooled or watercooled and in the loop with the CPU? What I'm missing is the connection between the Predator cooling the CPU and the conclusion that it's enough for a high end GPU. Mind you, I'd like to make it cool both a 4930K overclocked and a GPU like a 1060, not just the GPU!
> 
> TCO, why are you voting against the third option, which seems to give the best bang for the buck?


New client build with 4790k.

New R9 390 Nitro. Cannot get an EK block for the 390. They don't make the for Nitro. Which is a crying shame since Nitro is a common card produced by Sapphire.

I could put one of my Thermosphere blocks on the card but the client ran out of funds so we won't be doing that. Also this Nitro came with the backplate. Would be a shame to pull off the cooler and backplate and replace them with ugly heatsinks. The card is gorgeous. Although I could gut the GPS cooler to mod a Thermosphere onto the card. Having modded a pair of 6870 fc heatsinks, I'm not above that. But funds are at zero so...









And yes I mounted the stock Intel cooler first to give me an idea of what the Temps were and help decide if I should delid the 4790k.









I change my avvy from time to time.









~Ceadder


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

What would you advise me to do, out of the three options listed a few posts higher (custom loop, Predator w/dual rads, Predator for CPU only and put the cash saved towards a 1070)? I'm looking for a quasi-optimal solution for an optimization problem that involves performance, bang-for-buck, ergonomics and aesthetics of the build you see. Is the real, not market slided, power consumption of the 1070 known well? What is it like?

P.S. You happy people investing into rigs for fun, I just can't allow myself do it, unfortunately, well it's off topic anyway.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> What would you advise me to do, out of the three options listed a few posts higher (custom loop, Predator w/dual rads, Predator for CPU only and put the cash saved towards a 1070)? I'm looking for a quasi-optimal solution for an optimization problem that involves performance, bang-for-buck, ergonomics and aesthetics of the build you see. Is the real, not market slided, power consumption of the 1070 known well? What is it like?
> 
> P.S. You happy people investing into rigs for fun, I just can't allow myself do it, unfortunately, well it's off topic anyway.


In all seriousness, if you are limited in funds, then it'll make more sense to stay in Air, with a Predator you will not be getting much improvement over Air.

Another option is to get 2x 240 Predator.

then attach the GPU to one Predator, and attach the CPU to another Predator.


----------



## Ceadderman

If you can't (psychologically or otherwise) afford custom go with Predator.

Make sure that EK has a compatible block for whatever card you have in your sights also. Thermospheres are $80 then heats inks are another $20-$30 depending on which you get. Don't forget the costs associated with ahipping.

Now, if you intend to upgrade your GPU with every or every other release, go with Thermospheres. If you plan to sit on your card for a few generation so go with full cover. FC costs about the same as GPU only solutions.










~Ceadder


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

AllGamer, well again I have to disagree:

https://www.bjorn3d.com/2016/06/ekwb-predator-360-ean-3831109863350/5/

http://www.anandtech.com/show/9835/the-ekwb-ek-xlc-predator-240-liquid-cooler-review/5

See high-wattage loads at low fan speed.

Ceadder, thermosheres on the EK website are half the price of a fullcover block, so at least that choice is obvious to me


----------



## CrazyNightOwl

OK now can we get down to some analysis gents









The Predator appears to be using a "Laing DDC 3.1 pump". Here is a review in Russian, Google Translate should be able to decipher it:

http://pccooling.ru/content.php?124-Laing-DDC-3-1-(DDC-1T)/view/2

where they say that it actually outperforms the D5, which is included in the other kits. Now why could they get those results looniam mentioned in that review?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> *OK now can we get down to some analysis gents *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Predator appears to be using a "Laing DDC 3.1 pump". Here is a review in Russian, Google Translate should be able to decipher it:
> 
> http://pccooling.ru/content.php?124-Laing-DDC-3-1-(DDC-1T)/view/2
> 
> where they say that it actually outperforms the D5, which is included in the other kits. Now why could they get those results looniam mentioned in that review?


That's a really good idea . . .

My analysis is that you want to listen to reviews with a vested interest in receiving additional products to review, over experience users who are trying, with pitifully little success, to effectively reason with you.

Trying to water-cool on a severely limited budget is just plain flat out stupid.

The lower the budget, the more pathetic the results, . . . . no farcking exceptions

Stay on air until you can afford to make the requisite investment to achieve your desired end result.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> OK now can we get down to some analysis gents
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Predator appears to be using a "Laing DDC 3.1 pump". Here is a review in Russian, Google Translate should be able to decipher it:
> 
> http://pccooling.ru/content.php?124-Laing-DDC-3-1-(DDC-1T)/view/2
> 
> where they say that it actually outperforms the D5, which is included in the other kits. Now why could they get those results looniam mentioned in that review?


There are different types of DDC pumps though, with different wattages that generally corresponds to the max pump head pressure and flow rate. So bunching all DDCs together is asking for problems. The DDC in the EK Predator 240/360 is a 6W customized one different from the 18W standard that goes out separately or in kits. The pump in the EK Predator 140/280 is their SPC-60 which is not even a DDC pump.


----------



## emsj86

The thing is the predator won't be silent. The reviews you are reading are not always the most accurate. The fans will be pretty loud to get good cooking. The reason people say stay air or go custom is because while it will cool what you want it won't do it well with over clocks and will need the fans ramped up and loud to get good or ok temps. To expect silent and headroom is a lot from a predator with a gpu expanded to it. I'm not saying it won't work but silent build with overhead to spare for overclocks is asking a lot out of that set up


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Stay on air until you can afford to make the requisite investment to achieve your desired end result.


This! Wait a little longer, save some more money and do it proper without budget compromises.


----------



## IchiRuki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Stay on air until you can afford to make the requisite investment to achieve your desired end result.


So much this! I started with a simple loop with soft tubing and it was just over 500€, now I added a second GPU, went PETG with fitting bends and the price skyrocketed to roughly 1500€







but the results are beter than expected


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyNightOwl*
> 
> OK now can we get down to some analysis gents
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Predator appears to be using a "Laing DDC 3.1 pump". Here is a review in Russian, Google Translate should be able to decipher it:
> 
> http://pccooling.ru/content.php?124-Laing-DDC-3-1-(DDC-1T)/view/2
> 
> where they say that it actually outperforms the D5, which is included in the other kits. Now why could they get those results looniam mentioned in that review?


You might want to table your discussion until you can do some more research and get up to speed on water coolong components. I've been following your discussion and it's a little chaotic and seems to bounce all over the place because of the lack of knowledge. A good resource is the stickies in the OCN water cooling club forum.


----------



## AllGamer

*Quick question.*

I want to cable sleeve the *EK D5 pumps wires*,

Which size of cable *heat shrink* works best *2.5mm* or *4mm*?

for the actual sleeving I picked up some *3mm* cable sleeves.

--- EDIT ---
hmm... maybe something even smaller like 1.5mm ?
it's only the 2 thicker 5V+, Ground, and 2 Fan tach wires

I guess I'll have to wait until I go home and get a chance to measure those bunched together to find out.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *Quick question.*
> 
> I want to cable sleeve the *EK D5 pumps wires*,
> 
> Which size of cable *heat shrink* works best *2.5mm* or *4mm*?
> 
> for the actual sleeving I picked up some *3mm* cable sleeves.
> 
> --- EDIT ---
> hmm... maybe something even smaller like 1.5mm ?
> it's only the 2 thicker 5V+, Ground, and 2 Fan tach wires
> 
> I guess I'll have to wait until I go home and get a chance to measure those bunched together to find out.


MDPC-X heat shrink is the best.


----------



## Ceadderman

I don't have a vested interest in receiving I Ewing reviewing products. And even if I did, I would still recommend Predator for those on a budget.

The 240 v1.1 that I'm currently messing with is pretty danged quiet. It's mounted in a Corsair 780T. The front fans of that case are louder that those of the Predator which is mounted in the top. I have the Pump mounted to the rear of that case. The only time I can honestly hear the Predator setup is when I'm working close to it cabling etc. Those Corsair fans are running @max speed due to how many systems are pushing out heat. My brother's 932 my inherited Dell XPS 8700 and the client build which is sithing on a coffee table. Predator fans are running @ 3/4 speed since it doesn't need to run at full speed.

And yes I would suggest it to someone who can afford a budget loop over a standard AIO. Especially more so since they've dropped in price.

I do custom not AIO but I have family who don't. My brother is still on air. My mother is on a Corsair AIO. They don't have the wherewithal to get into custom loops. They can afford them but then I have more on my plate maintenancewise. I set the Corsair AIO in the rear exhaust mount in my Ma's 922. The only real maintenance that she has to do is brushing off the radiator since I set it up in Pull with the fan between the case and the Radiator.









And I agree that MDPC shrink is far and away hands down the best.









:Edit: Stupid phone edit.

~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't have a vested interest in receiving I Ewing reviewing products. And even if I did, I would still recommend Predator for those on a budget.
> 
> The 240 v1.1 that I'm currently messing with is pretty danged quiet. It's mounted in a Corsair 780T. The front fans of that case are louder that those of the Predator which is mounted in the top. I have the Pump mounted to the rear of that case. The only time I can honestly hear the Predator setup is when I'm working close to it cabling etc. Those Corsair fans are running @max speed due to how many systems are pushing out heat. My brother's 932 my inherited Dell XPS 8700 and the client build which is sithing on a coffee table. Predator fans are running @ 3/4 speed since it doesn't need to run at full speed.
> 
> And yes I would suggest it to someone who can afford a budget loop over a standard AIO. Especially more so since they've dropped in price.
> 
> I do custom not AIO but I have family who don't. My brother is still on air. My mother is on a Corsair AIO. They don't have the wherewithal to get into custom loops. They can afford them but then I have more on my plate maintenancewise. I set the Corsair AIO in the rear exhaust mount in my Ma's 922. The only real maintenance that she has to do is brushing off the radiator since I set it up in Pull with the fan between the case and the Radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I agree that MDPC shrink is far and away hands down the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :Edit: Stupid phone edit.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Get the same 4 to 1 heat shrink from wirecare.com for better price


----------



## Ceadderman

Is it really the same or is it manned to the same spec?









~Ceadder


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *Quick question.*
> 
> I want to cable sleeve the *EK D5 pumps wires*,
> 
> Which size of cable *heat shrink* works best *2.5mm* or *4mm*?
> 
> for the actual sleeving I picked up some *3mm* cable sleeves.
> 
> --- EDIT ---
> hmm... maybe something even smaller like 1.5mm ?
> it's only the 2 thicker 5V+, Ground, and 2 Fan tach wires
> 
> I guess I'll have to wait until I go home and get a chance to measure those bunched together to find out.


Ok, finally got time to measure the wires

the 5V and Ground is AWG 20
thickness of each is 2.2mm
combined is 4.6mm

never expected these cable to be so thick, yet they look so thin
I hope I can still use those 3mm sleeves I picked up, they are expandable, so it should be fine.

good thing I didn't order the Heat shrinks yet, now I know which size to get.

As for the Tachometer and Temp wires they are 1.2mm each
side by side is 2.6mm

can't find the AWG rating for the Temp / Tach wire, only rating that made sense was 90°C


----------



## scgt1

My EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWN comes in tomorrow. It states that it comes preinstalled with anti-cyclone insert but also states: "Additionaly a PU anti-vortex foam and EK-HD Tube are enclosed."

I've only used DDC pumps with XSPC res tops and FrozenQ Helix reservoirs so these extras are new to me.

Is there a standard recommendation as to which to use or is one better then using the other? Performance increase or decrease?

Components in the system are:
Swiftech XT
Asus Maximus VIII Formula stock board block
EK GTX 1080 FTW
Kryo M.2 ssd block
UT60 360mm
RX480 480mm
BP 3/8 x 5/8 Compression fittings
Koolance QDC @ External RX480 x2 pairs


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scgt1*
> 
> My EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWN comes in tomorrow. It states that it comes preinstalled with anti-cyclone insert but also states: "Additionaly a PU anti-vortex foam and EK-HD Tube are enclosed."
> 
> I've only used DDC pumps with XSPC res tops and FrozenQ Helix reservoirs so these extras are new to me.
> 
> Is there a standard recommendation as to which to use or is one better then using the other? Performance increase or decrease?
> 
> Components in the system are:
> Swiftech XT
> Asus Maximus VIII Formula stock board block
> EK GTX 1080 FTW
> Kryo M.2 ssd block
> UT60 360mm
> RX480 480mm
> BP 3/8 x 5/8 Compression fittings
> Koolance QDC @ External RX480 x2 pairs.


Just keep the installed anti-cyclone. Don't use the foam! That stuff breaks down fast and gets in the loop.


----------



## scgt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Just keep the installed anti-cyclone. Don't use the foam! That stuff breaks down fast and gets in the loop.


Thanks for the quick response and info on the foam. Don't want trash in the loop that's for sure.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Finally got my system back up and running after the complete frickin NIGHTMARE this water loop has been causing me; and of course the damn top GPU isn't showing up. I had a hell of a time getting the top gpu in the 1st pci slot of my RVE10 to go in properly (the 2nd TITAN X with went in the 3rd slot fine and i had the 3 slot terminal with a blank in the middle slot; but the top GPU just refused to go in properly no matter what i did). I finally got the top GPU to seemingly go into the slot; but now it just doesn't register at all. Says i only have one GPU and will only give a signal with the bottom GPU.

Anyone have any experience with this? I thought it might have been the heatsink on the RVE10 since i had to remove the pipe to put the monoblock on etc.. but i can still visibly see an inch or so of room between the top of the GPU and the heatsink so that doesn't seem to be the case.

No idea why it wouldn't show up properly, it seems to be in the slot...


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Finally got my system back up and running after the complete frickin NIGHTMARE this water loop has been causing me; and of course the damn top GPU isn't showing up. I had a hell of a time getting the top gpu in the 1st pci slot of my RVE10 to go in properly (the 2nd TITAN X with went in the 3rd slot fine and i had the 3 slot terminal with a blank in the middle slot; but the top GPU just refused to go in properly no matter what i did). I finally got the top GPU to seemingly go into the slot; but now it just doesn't register at all. Says i only have one GPU and will only give a signal with the bottom GPU.
> 
> Anyone have any experience with this? I thought it might have been the heatsink on the RVE10 since i had to remove the pipe to put the monoblock on etc.. but i can still visibly see an inch or so of room between the top of the GPU and the heatsink so that doesn't seem to be the case.
> 
> No idea why it wouldn't show up properly, it seems to be in the slot...


did you try to swap gpu and see it its the slot or the card


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> did you try to swap gpu and see it its the slot or the card


Not yet. I literally took a whole week to get the loop running due to constant leaking and crap so i'm REALLY not looking forward to having to tear things apart again and either have to entirely drain it all which i just don't have time for anymore, or end up getting more white fluid stains on everything again from just removing the GPU terminal etc..

The cards were working just fine before though so i'm thinking it's not the card; my intuition tells me it's whatever is preventing it from going into the slot all the way (i can't see in there well enough to tell if it's actually all the way in the slot or not)


----------



## scgt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Just keep the installed anti-cyclone. Don't use the foam! That stuff breaks down fast and gets in the loop.


Was working on the loop this afternoon. Pretty much have all fittings placed (wish I had ordered a few more 90* swivels or actual 90* compression fittings. I have so many 45* compression's left over now lol)

I'm trying to figure out what to do with my silver kill coil. If I insert it in a tube it will restrict flow some. If I drop it in the EK Res with the anti cyclone acrylic EK thing in the res the coil can drop right down inside the intake and get stuck in what looks like is part of the impellar. Which obviously wouldn't be good. I was thinking to wrap it around the anti cyclone between the EK letters in the acrylic piece. That way it can't fall in the intake.

Any ideas anyone?


----------



## mizer357

In the past, I've straightened them out and fit them out of sight right below where the pump meets the res. I've also slipped them into SLI bridges and longer extender fittings.


----------



## DarkIdeals

So i fixed it. Turns out it was the pci slot not the GPU. Ended up breaking the damn clips on BOTH the 1st and 3rd pci slot, which i normally wouldn't care about but on a Rampage V Edition 10 the clips are part of the RGB gimmick etc.. I can always super glue them back on later though i guess.

Finally got my cards installed properly though.

Oh and for the record, you CAN use the EK-FC TITAN X backplate from the MAXWELL TITAN X's on the TITAN X Pascal cards; there's just ONE screw hole that doesn't have a hole on the plate so you just don't put a screw there (and since there's no IC's on the back of the pascal TITAN X you don't need the plate for anything other than asthetics anyway) It looks just fine too, i'll snap some pics soon if anyone is interested. Saved me $70 + shipping of having to buy new backplates...


----------



## maslows

Expanded my predator....well kinda, those QDC were and eyesore, bending was a pain, but it's don't it's not as tight as the other but it's not barb it's acrylic. Gonna let it run overnight, then put everything back together tomorrow













Ok clean her up a bit don't ask about cable management


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scgt1*
> 
> Was working on the loop this afternoon. Pretty much have all fittings placed (wish I had ordered a few more 90* swivels or actual 90* compression fittings. I have so many 45* compression's left over now lol)
> 
> I'm trying to figure out what to do with my silver kill coil. If I insert it in a tube it will restrict flow some. If I drop it in the EK Res with the anti cyclone acrylic EK thing in the res the coil can drop right down inside the intake and get stuck in what looks like is part of the impellar. Which obviously wouldn't be good. I was thinking to wrap it around the anti cyclone between the EK letters in the acrylic piece. That way it can't fall in the intake.
> 
> Any ideas anyone?


Step 1: Remove kill coil from packaging

Step 2: Enter kitchen

Step 3: Remove lid from garbage disposal bin

Step 4: Insert kill coil in bin

Step 5: Close lid

Step 6: Ensure to remove bag on fridays for sanitation patrol to pick up

Step 7: Use either appropriate drop count of biocide, a mix of 10-20% anti-corrosive/anti-microbial (glycol, water wetter etc..) + 80% DI water, or your preferred brand of premix (Mayhem's, EC etc..) instead

Step 8: Assume Joyous facial expression and thankful demeanor in approximately 12 months when your loop does not have metallic flakes shredding through everything in sight.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scgt1*
> 
> I'm trying to figure out what to do with my silver kill coil. If I insert it in a tube it will restrict flow some. If I drop it in the EK Res with the anti cyclone acrylic EK thing in the res the coil can drop right down inside the intake and get stuck in what looks like is part of the impellar. Which obviously wouldn't be good. I was thinking to wrap it around the anti cyclone between the EK letters in the acrylic piece. That way it can't fall in the intake.
> 
> Any ideas anyone?


Keep your silver coil in the drawer and use distilled water plus PT-Nuke, or better yet, use Mayhems coolant, which contains biocide and corrosion inhibitors. The coil is a mediocre biocide at best and can cause problems in the corrosion dept.


----------



## 7he5tig

Hey guys.

Just finished my first loop, and just remembered that I didn't change the jet plate in my Supremecy EVO. I just left the default plate inside that came pre-installed, which says "all round great performer" in the manual, however in the table it says it's optimised for LGA 2011, and I'm on 1150. I didn't change it because the instructions had "optional", but I now realise I probably should have.

The loop is running and everything but I don't know if it's worth draining + disassembly + reassembly + refilling. Would take quite a while.

Should I bother? How many degrees are we talking here?


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7he5tig*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> Just finished my first loop, and just remembered that I didn't change the jet plate in my Supremecy EVO. I just left the default plate inside that came pre-installed, which says "all round great performer" in the manual, however in the table it says it's optimised for LGA 2011, and I'm on 1150. I didn't change it because the instructions had "optional", but I now realise I probably should have.
> 
> The loop is running and everything but I don't know if it's worth draining + disassembly + reassembly + refilling. Would take quite a while.
> 
> Should I bother? How many degrees are we talking here?


You're looking at 0.5 to 1 degree celsius or so, if that really. Most i've seen a jet plate EVER matter is maybe 1.5C and that was back in the Supreme LF days.

Don't worry about it, it'll be fine. I'd worry much more about things like inlet/outlet ports etc.. than something like this.


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Any idea what would cause the 360mm PE radiator in my LC 2.0 kit to leak at all four corners? I have a PE 480 radiator that I added and it doesn't leak at all.


Good news. Apparently the radiator doesn't have leaks. Water was running into the shroud and out of the corners when I was rinsing it out. It really seemed like all the corners were leaking but it was a false alarm. Yay.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Keep your silver coil in the drawer and use distilled water plus PT-Nuke, or better yet, use Mayhems coolant, which contains biocide and corrosion inhibitors. The coil is a mediocre biocide at best and can cause problems in the corrosion dept.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK*
> Always use market proven pre-mix coolant, such as EK-Ekoolant. This propylene glycol based coolant contains all the necessary biological inhibitors, acts as a surfactant and also offers lubricating properties which enhance the lifespan of the water pump. Besides this, it also offers corrosion protection when used in a mixed-metal liquid cooling loop.
> 
> Refrain from using strips of Silver (Ag), also known as "Kill Coil", with distilled water alone in your water cooling loop. Besides introducing another metal into the already mixed-metal loop with no corrosion protection, the concentration of Silver ions may not be enough to prevent or to suppress biological growth in the liquid cooling loop.
> 
> Refrain from using Copper (II) Sulphate (CuSO4) additive - common trade name "Nuke Cu" or "Biocide Cu" - due to its tendency to react with metals usually found in the liquid cooling loop, especially radiators (Zn, Cu, Sn) as well as Aluminum (Al) thus promoting corrosion. Using CuSO4 also accelerates visually discouraging copper tarnishing phenomena.


The article should be updated since the EK coolants are ethylene glycol (EVO) or glycerol (Pastel) - not propylene glycol.

Notice how it says no Nuke.

Kill coils are bad because of nickle. If there's no nickle they're OK. .50 galvanic potential with nickle isn't good. One article I read also said free chlorine ions are needed to make silver ions work well as a biocide. That doesn't sound like a great thing for our purposes.


----------



## AllGamer

Just a quick reminder for those that missed it several pages back.

Avoid using Silver, if you have Copper, Brass, Nickel in your loop

the Silver will react and break down the Nickel layers,
very much the same issue if you mix Aluminum with the above.


----------



## Kimir

What happened to the paint on that chassis? I'd put everything appart, clean in up and re-paint it imo.
Other than that, look nice. You need a white Galax graphic card and a white supperflower PSU!


----------



## maslows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> What happened to the paint on that chassis? I'd put everything appart, clean in up and re-paint it imo.
> Other than that, look nice. You need a white Galax graphic card and a white supperflower PSU!


My kids wanted to help, and painting was the least damage they could do. Seasonic has a nice white PSU. I am gonna just order a new white case,


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Just a quick reminder for those that missed it several pages back.
> 
> Avoid using Silver, if you have Copper, Brass, Nickel in your loop
> 
> the Silver will react and break down the Nickel layers,
> very much the same issue if you mix Aluminum with the above.


How would you know if you have silver or aluminum?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Just a quick reminder for those that missed it several pages back.
> 
> Avoid using Silver, if you have Copper, Brass, Nickel in your loop
> 
> the Silver will react and break down the Nickel layers,
> very much the same issue if you mix Aluminum with the above.
> 
> 
> 
> How would you know if you have silver or aluminum?
Click to expand...

Silver is not a typical block material. You would specifically be putting a silver coil in your res, so you would know if you had it in there. Aluminum is usually only used on low quality radiators and blocks, but it is silver in color. Check your manufacturers specs if you have any doubt.

Most, if not all of what EK sells will be copper or nickel plated copper.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> How would you know if you have silver or aluminum?


You look at the product page of the parts in your loop and look at what they're made of.


----------



## davidm71

So silver coil is bad. I bought a twig of silver coil. Guess I won't be using it.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> So silver coil is bad. I bought a twig of silver coil. Guess I won't be using it.


lets rephrase this properly.

Silver coil is fine, when used in compatible components that does not "react" badly to it.
Silver coil is used to kill organic germs / algae in the water, this was fine back then before the pre-mix liquids became common, and people didn't know better about the side effect of the chemical reaction with copper/brass/nickle

As a safe substitute to Silver, you can use any of the EK or Maybem (or your Fav name brand) liquid to mix with distilled water, that will include Biocide and other chemicals that will help protect your loop both from algae and from rusting.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Personally I just use EK's EVO coolant and so far has caused zero issues


----------



## Ceadderman

Not really sure that silver is as bad as aluminum. But, since I have never used it and went with straight distilled with no additives I am no expert on the subject. Seems to me that as long as you flush and fill your loop on a schedule there should be no issues. Since my schedule is between 6mos to a year, I don't think that it would be much of an impact on blocks tarnishing.

I, out of 5 blocks and soon to be three Radiators, only run one block that is Nickel. Everything else is Copper and Brass. Shouldn't be a big deal running silver plated Monsoon fittings.









~Ceadder


----------



## scgt1

Anyone else using a EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM with an Asus Maximus VIII Formula?

Installed my pump and re did my layout and can't for the life of me get the fan profiling to change. It's just sitting on 4800rpm with the pump connected to the water pump header. I don't notice any pump noise over my fans or anything. Not sure the rpm range since EK doesn't even list it on the product page. I would assume it's running 100% which I don't feel necessary with my 950 PRO m.2 @30C, 6700K @16-20C, and EVGA GTX 1080 FTW at 35-36C at idle. The AI Suite Fan Xpert 3 fan speed graph just doesn't seem to change anything and the only selection is Smart mode. RPM Fix mode is grayed out.


----------



## davidm71

You guys think it's a good idea to mix 1/2 inch with 7/16 tubing? I read that the pump I bought the Koolance PMP-500 is so strong and exerts so much head pressure that it can crack 7/16 tubing. So I thought I'd run 1/2 inch only from pump to rad and after that my 7/16 soft primochil tubing should be safe?

Thanks


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> You guys think it's a good idea to mix 1/2 inch with 7/16 tubing? I read that the pump I bought the Koolance PMP-500 is so strong and exerts so much head pressure that it can crack 7/16 tubing. So I thought I'd run 1/2 inch only from pump to rad and after that my 7/16 soft primochil tubing should be safe?
> 
> Thanks


That is a strong pump, but can it really crack tubing? Either way yes it's fine to mix tubing sizes, shouldnt be an issue.


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> That is a strong pump, but can it really crack tubing? Either way yes it's fine to mix tubing sizes, shouldnt be an issue.


Some guy once told me it's a risk but you know what they say about opinions.. anyhow not going to chance it.


----------



## looniam

how does soft tubing crack?


----------



## davidm71

The guy said that the head pressure on the in-port of the pump is so strong you get cracking or cavitation was the word he used. Kind of had me worried.

Found the link of the original message:

https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/do-i-need-another-pump.2447533/


----------



## DarthBaggins

You have nothing to worry about with your tubing diameter being 7/16th's, soft tubing doesn't tend to crack and more than likely they were using old tubing that should have been changed out long ago.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> how does soft tubing crack?


Only thing I can think of is age, or exposure to something like isopropyl alcohol.


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Avoid using Silver, if you have Copper, Brass, Nickel in your loop
> 
> the Silver will react and break down the Nickel layers,
> very much the same issue if you mix Aluminum with the above.


Lol... I just told people the same thing in the post right above yours.


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not really sure that silver is as bad as aluminum. But, since I have never used it and went with straight distilled with no additives I am no expert on the subject. Seems to me that as long as you flush and fill your loop on a schedule there should be no issues. Since my schedule is between 6mos to a year, I don't think that it would be much of an impact on blocks tarnishing.




It's actually the lead-tin solder in radiators that's the biggest worry with silver, not nickle. (That is, if one doesn't have non-galvanized aluminum.)

Nickle is actually slightly closer to silver than copper is. Silver coils should not cause any trouble with nickle. Any nickle coating flaking issues should not be caused by silver coils.

The reason I posted about a .50 galvanic potential between silver and nickle is because I accidentally mixed up nickle with the tin-lead solder used in radiators. *That*, not nickle, is the worry with a silver coil. That's the .50 galvanic potential which isn't good.

Tin-lead solder has a .35 galvanic corrosion differential with nickle and .30 with copper.

Silver is bad with non-galvanized aluminum. It can be as bad as a .80 potential or as good as .60 (which is still not good). Aluminum can also be a .65-.45 potential with nickle (depending on the aluminum type) and a .60-.40 potential with copper.

So, aluminum to copper is worse, equivalent, or better than lead-tin solder to silver depending on the variety of aluminum.

Silver is even more galvanic toward aluminum than nickle and copper. Aluminum, though, is safer with the tin-lead solder than copper, nickle, or silver.

If a person has an all-aluminum loop they would have even less of a need for anti-corrosion additive(s) than a person with an all-copper or copper + nickle loop. In fact, 2000 Series aluminum with tin-lead solder would not need corrosion inhibitors.

Nickle and copper are only .05 apart in galvanic potential which is minimal.

Another potential red flag is steel (jet plate). There's only a .20 difference between 18% chromium corrosion-resistant steel but low-alloy steel is almost as bad as aluminum in a loop.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> Not really sure that silver is as bad as aluminum. But, since I have never used it and went with straight distilled with no additives I am no expert on the subject. Seems to me that as long as you flush and fill your loop on a schedule there should be no issues. Since my schedule is between 6mos to a year, I don't think that it would be much of an impact on blocks tarnishing.


I had my EK copper block tarnish badly overnight after cleaning it with vinegar, rinsing it several times with distilled water, and leaving distilled sitting in it out in the open. Both the micro channels and the opposite side of the copper block were tarnished badly and I had to clean them again. I also used 3000 grit paper to lap off the tarnish on the back.

Silver coils should be OK with copper and nickle. However, how effective they are is a question because in the research I did one article I found said it's necessary to have chlorine ions in the water for the silver ions to function well as a biocide. Since adding chlorine compounds to PC water loops is frowned upon...

Copper oxides (tarnish) are vastly less effective at transferring heat than copper metal, as far as I know, so tarnished copper micro channels and such should greatly be reduced in overall efficiency. How much anti-corrosive additives' coatings (like tolyltriazone) inhibit thermal transfer is something I don't know. But, that type of coating is likely to be better than tarnish. As for glycol... it's true that adding it does reduce the thermal transfer efficiency versus plain distilled water (particularly since one needs >20% glycol for stability of the solution) but not as much as having tarnished metal.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's actually the lead-tin solder in radiators that's the biggest worry with silver, not nickle. (That is, if one doesn't have non-galvanized aluminum.)
> 
> Nickle is actually slightly closer to silver than copper is. Silver coils should not cause any trouble with nickle. Any nickle coating flaking issues should not be caused by silver coils.
> 
> The reason I posted about a .50 galvanic potential between silver and nickle is because I accidentally mixed up nickle with the tin-lead solder used in radiators. *That*, not nickle, is the worry with a silver coil. That's the .50 galvanic potential which isn't good.
> 
> Tin-lead solder has a .35 galvanic corrosion differential with nickle and .30 with copper.
> 
> Silver is bad with non-galvanized aluminum. It can be as bad as a .80 potential or as good as .60 (which is still not good). Aluminum can also be a .65-.45 potential with nickle (depending on the aluminum type) and a .60-.40 potential with copper.
> 
> So, aluminum to copper is worse, equivalent, or better than lead-tin solder to silver depending on the variety of aluminum.
> 
> Silver is even more galvanic toward aluminum than nickle and copper. Aluminum, though, is safer with the tin-lead solder than copper, nickle, or silver.
> 
> If a person has an all-aluminum loop they would have even less of a need for anti-corrosion additive(s) than a person with an all-copper or copper + nickle loop. In fact, 2000 Series aluminum with tin-lead solder would not need corrosion inhibitors.
> 
> Nickle and copper are only .05 apart in galvanic potential which is minimal.
> 
> Another potential red flag is steel (jet plate). There's only a .20 difference between 18% chromium corrosion-resistant steel but low-alloy steel is almost as bad as aluminum in a loop.
> 
> 
> I had my EK copper block tarnish badly overnight after cleaning it with vinegar, rinsing it several times with distilled water, and leaving distilled sitting in it out in the open. Both the micro channels and the opposite side of the copper block were tarnished badly and I had to clean them again. I also used 3000 grit paper to lap off the tarnish on the back.
> 
> Silver coils should be OK with copper and nickle. However, how effective they are is a question because in the research I did one article I found said it's necessary to have chlorine ions in the water for the silver ions to function well as a biocide. Since adding chlorine compounds to PC water loops is frowned upon...
> 
> Copper oxides (tarnish) are vastly less effective at transferring heat than copper metal, as far as I know, so tarnished copper micro channels and such should greatly be reduced in overall efficiency. How much anti-corrosive additives' coatings (like tolyltriazone) inhibit thermal transfer is something I don't know. But, that type of coating is likely to be better than tarnish. As for glycol... it's true that adding it does reduce the thermal transfer efficiency versus plain distilled water (particularly since one needs >20% glycol for stability of the solution) but not as much as having tarnished metal.


Well written, researched post.

You brought up some interesting points as well, such as the galvanic effect of the tin lead solder in rads, and of steel jet plates.
Also the need for the presence of chlorine ions, for silver ions to function well as a biocide, which makes using silver in a loop even less desirable, imo.

Rep+


----------



## Mega Man

except that
a) he and many others assumes the solder, never asks- my fav part is where he assumes lead solder, which can not be used in most countries ....
b) not all rads uses solder
c) most "steel" used is a type of stainless steel that doe not react..... i could go on..... in the end as usual. when using water. everything corrodes. accept it. or done use water.
d) actually the problem with the silver it is causes ( not going in to much deeper specifics ) the copper to erode under imperfections in the nickle, which then "causes" ( please note the quotation marks, they are very important. ) the nickel to flake....
nothing is permanent everything fails. if this is not acceptable to you. dont do water. a typical rad setup will still last far longer then most would have you believe, but will need replaced eventually


----------



## Ceadderman

I clean my blocks with 100% real lemon juice. Vinegar is a no go unless I use ketsup. I only use that if I have a hard stain that is being super difficult in removing. Such as algae staining. Straight vinegar should never be used.










I'm reasonably certain that I have never owned a radiator that had lead solder. HWLabs and now EK. But it would not surprise me if some of the cheaper alternatives used some form of solder containing lead. Although I'm relatively certain that even Tt Rads don't since they are pressed together and machine welded in an oven.









I could always be wrong however.









~Ceadder


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Although I'm relatively certain that even Tt Rads don't since they are pressed together and machine welded in an oven.


I wouldn't be so sure about that.

I know TT is trying to bring their image around, by trying to be Pro Water Cooling and all, but in the end they are still an Asian company trying to cut cost to make a fortune.

I own a lot of TT products, not all of them are great, they do balance well efficiency and cost

I wouldn't be surprised if their radiators are below the grade.

that has always been something about the TT, they don't really aim to be High, they aim to be middle, just like their fans, they are great, but they do a half ass job at sleeving the cables.
they put the sleeve on, but they don't use heat shrink wrap to keep it in place









and they have 2 tiers, the Premium edition, and the Regular edition
the difference the control boxes supposedly dies faster on the Regular edition.

Fans wise, I've never had problem with TT, they started their business with Fans, and HSF.
They moved on to PSU which they did really good for years, but Cases they are not very durable in some parts.

So, for Water Cooling, they just recently started, this is like their 2nd or 3rd year promotion Water, so we'll see how their stuff goes.

I wouldn't trust using their Radiators / Blocks.


----------



## superstition222

Mega, I never said all radiators have solder that's exposed to the liquid nor did I say all of the solder has lead. Obviously, someone with a radiator that has no exposed solder doesn't need to be concerned by solder-related galvanic corrosion due to contact with the solution.

However, since you bring up solder not having lead, what is the alternative and how does it fit within the galvanic series? I assume it is Tin-Bismuth type. That is useful information that you could have posted if you wanted to be helpful.

As for steel, I posted two sets of data to back up what I wrote.

In terms of silver causing nickle to flake do you have any source data to share that shows that?


----------



## Ceadderman

@AllGamer Tt has a video out on YouTube showing how their Rads are made. You might lookup "Radiator, how it's made". I get a lot of tech related stuffs in my YouTube results, so I couldn't tell you what the exact result is. I'm currently on my S4 otherwise I would dig into the pile and post the link here. But I am sure you would be surprised on the tooling they're invested in.









~Ceadder


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @AllGamer Tt has a video out on YouTube showing how their Rads are made. You might lookup "Radiator, how it's made". I get a lot of tech related stuffs in my YouTube results, so I couldn't tell you what the exact result is. I'm currently on my S4 otherwise I would dig into the pile and post the link here. But I am sure you would be surprised on the tooling they're invested in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I know which video you are referring to, but we are getting a lil'bit offtopic here since this Thread is about EK, not TT









it all comes to a level of trust, TT are still relatively new to the WaterCooling arena, and as seen in their video, those Rads seems like made of Aluminum, not sure what it's but they are definitely not Copper and not Pure Nickel.

Yet another reason why I'd rather stick with EK or other brands that are known to only produce Copper based Rads.


----------



## symerac

Does anyone know a similar Pump/Res Combo as this one from EK D5?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-d5-vario-incl-pump

I need one which will fit like in the Skunkworks like from Jayztwocents.

Yes EK got this one; but its not a D5 and it shouldnt stay at the bottom:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-incl-pump

Should like this:

https://abload.de/img/d5fuk80.png


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *symerac*
> 
> Does anyone know a similar Pump/Res Combo as this one from EK D5?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-d5-vario-incl-pump
> 
> I need one which will fit like in the Skunkworks like from Jayztwocents.
> 
> Yes EK got this one; but its not a D5 and it shouldnt stay at the bottom:
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-incl-pump
> 
> Should like this:
> 
> https://abload.de/img/d5fuk80.png


How did you miss this one?









https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump

it was pretty much on the same page.


----------



## symerac

I saw that mate, but it hasnt that "cube" design








thats my problem. I dont know if I would like the round design of it, since I do hardtubing and cube would be much better.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *symerac*
> 
> I saw that mate, but it hasnt that "cube" design
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thats my problem. I dont know if I would like the round design of it, since I do hardtubing and cube would be much better.


The square "cube" design are discontinued, you'll have a hard time finding them in stock.

the Round "circle" version are the current models, after all your tubes connects to the Fittings, and the fittings has G1/4 threads that keeps them secured.


----------



## nzphil

You can still find the old D5 XTops here and there but it's getting harder and harder to find em. If you want one i'd start looking ASAP. I bought one this time last year.


----------



## Revan654

Does EK sell longer screws then the supplied screws with their XE rads? I'm off by a few mm due to my rad mount.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Does EK sell longer screws then the supplied screws with their XE rads? I'm off by a few mm due to my rad mount.


If your in the states hit an ACE hardware. You will find any length and size screw you could possibly want. My local ACE recognizes me at this point and when I walk in the screw guy asks me what I'm building today.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Does EK sell longer screws then the supplied screws with their XE rads? I'm off by a few mm due to my rad mount.
> 
> 
> 
> If your in the states hit an ACE hardware. You will find any length and size screw you could possibly want. My local ACE recognizes me at this point and when I walk in the screw guy asks me what I'm building today.
Click to expand...

Not EVERY screw. They don't have any counter sunk #6-32 in black that are around 35mm in length. In fact nobody makes those screws and that's what I need and have been looking for forever.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Not EVERY screw. They don't have any counter sunk #6-32 in black that are around 35mm in length. In fact nobody makes those screws and that's what I need and have been looking for forever.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


McMaster Carr part 91251A874

Box of 10 for $6.82


----------



## DarthBaggins

I can drive to McMaster and pick them up too


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> If your in the states hit an ACE hardware. You will find any length and size screw you could possibly want. My local ACE recognizes me at this point and when I walk in the screw guy asks me what I'm building today.


Any Chance you have a link to exact screw I need to pick up?


----------



## Ceadderman

Lol. I'm not talking up Tt. Gimme EK any day of the week, month or year. I will have three Coolstreams in my 932 and have never run a Tt radiator. Just brought it up for the sake of the conversation, which was solder based.









~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Lol. I'm not talking up Tt. Gimme EK any day of the week, month or year. I will have three Coolstreams in my 932 and have never run a Tt radiator. Just brought it up for the sake of the conversation, which was solder based.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The only rads I trust are Hardware-Labs & EK. XSPC RX series is pretty good too.

I have been debating if I should keep my MonSoon pump top or get a EK pump top. Not sure if theirs enough of a difference between the two for a return of Monsoon.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> If your in the states hit an ACE hardware. You will find any length and size screw you could possibly want. My local ACE recognizes me at this point and when I walk in the screw guy asks me what I'm building today.
> 
> 
> 
> Any Chance you have a link to exact screw I need to pick up?
Click to expand...

EK ships 6-32 screws I believe 30mm long, so I'm not sure how much more length you need but probably 35mm or so? Here's a link from the ACE web site but you really need to go in person to a store because they have much more selection.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=30571896


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> EK ships 6-32 screws I believe 30mm long, so I'm not sure how much more length you need but probably 35mm or so? Here's a link from the ACE web site but you really need to go in person to a store because they have much more selection.
> 
> http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=30571896


35mm is the size I need.


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

I posted a McMaster part number earlier, order it from there. They're 1 3/8" which is 34.9mm

Nevermind, those are socket head. I see you wanted countersunk. The closest I see on McMaster is 32 or 38mm. If you really want one you could get the 38mm and grind it down I guess


----------



## Salem13

Throw in my one good EK porn pic, loved the quality of everything including the packaging ... though the main box could have been 12mm longer to fit the backplate in the main box, everyone's a critic!



Add this one too



Oh and the plug thing on the backplate was anodized blue. ew.

but meh, my rads have blue on the logo too so it;s an odd fit?


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's just a sticker


----------



## Salem13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That's just a sticker


LOL, no, I peeled that off, it was blue under.

BAC too high to open case for pic, favored for later.


----------



## IchiRuki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Salem13*
> 
> LOL, no, I peeled that off, it was blue under.
> 
> BAC too high to open case for pic, favored for later.


Then you peeled only the top part, happened to me once. Every EK logo is silver, try it, mate


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IchiRuki*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Salem13*
> 
> LOL, no, I peeled that off, it was blue under.
> 
> BAC too high to open case for pic, favored for later.
> 
> 
> 
> Then you peeled only the top part, happened to me once. Every EK logo is silver, try it, mate
Click to expand...

Yes it's just a protective piece of film on the badge. You can tell by not just being blue but having a striped pattern. EK doesn't use blue badges. Keep peeling to get to the silver badge.


----------



## paskowitz

I feel like a big dummy. Apparently I didn't situate my 980 Ti water block properly. My temps were about +20c to ambient under load, which is a bit high. I just refit it with the EK backplate and I'm now at +10c ambient under load.


----------



## Salem13

I feel stupid as well, must be a trend.

Was in playing with fan headers trying to get things instinctively organized and, oh yea, that blue plug.

NOW I SWEAR I PULLED A LITTLE GREEK-FLAG BLUE AND CLEAR STRIPED STICKER OFF?

There it sat, looking perfectly anodized and I said, welp, I have to pick at it.

Pick, pick, these guys are nu ... what? Third pick it started to move lol.

Very glad to see the shiny silver button after.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Salem13*
> 
> LOL, no, I peeled that off, it was blue under.
> 
> BAC too high to open case for pic, favored for later.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Salem13*
> 
> I feel stupid as well, must be a trend.
> 
> Was in playing with fan headers trying to get things instinctively organized and, oh yea, that blue plug.
> 
> NOW I SWEAR I PULLED A LITTLE GREEK-FLAG BLUE AND CLEAR STRIPED STICKER OFF?
> 
> There it sat, looking perfectly anodized and I said, welp, I have to pick at it.
> 
> Pick, pick, these guys are nu ... what? Third pick it started to move lol.
> 
> Very glad to see the shiny silver button after.


GG!








have a (+REP)

not sure if it's for your tenacity or that it took 4 days for your BAC to get low enough.


----------



## IT Diva

Hey guys, & gals, [shameless solicitation]

Finally got a buildlog started for the Caselabs builds I'm working on, so I don't have to spam this thread as often.

Feel free to come by and if you get the urge, make like monkeys and fling some poo er, constructive criticism.

There is, of course, a potpourri of EK's finest bangles and do-dads to be found.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1614284/build-log-diva-does-threesomes-foursomes-moresomes-a-veritable-orgy-of-caselabs-mercury-series-builds

[/shameless solicitation]

Thanks for visiting,

Darlene


----------



## Koeni

Just noticed my Predator 360 [1.1] is leaking. I opened to add another fan and noticed drops on the bottom of my Fractal Define S case. There's also a drop on one of the hoses. Must say I'm a little bit disappointed in the quality of this product.


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koeni*
> 
> Just noticed my Predator 360 [1.1] is leaking. I opened to add another fan and noticed drops on the bottom of my Fractal Define S case. There's also a drop on of the hoses. Must say I'm a little bit disappointed in the quality of this product.


in the EK predator club thread, another user had a leak...

****, i get my predator sometime this week (delivery).


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Did you find out where the leak is coming from?


----------



## Koeni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Did you find out where the leak is coming from?


I think from a fitting or a tiny hole [is that possible?] in the hose. Can't see any fluid leaking out at the moment, so I guess it's only leaking when running.

I was playing BF1 when I decided to add another fan to cool my dual RX 480. I noticed the liquid on the bottom of the case. Luckily no hardware damaged (as far as I can see).


----------



## nzphil

A lot of the time it is hard to spot leaks as most of them are very slow. Usually a fitting will be the culprit. Sometimes a good way to find it is to wrap all your fittings in paper towel. That is how I found a really slow leak from a bad 90 fitting.


----------



## Vulpturius

I hope i can ask you guys/girls some question.
After weeks of preperation and waiting for the components to being delivered, i finally received last weekend the last components.
So i started with my build on sunday. I prepared the wonderfull core P5 case and i wanted to install my mono-block onto my motherboard.

For info here are the components:

- Mobo: MSI Z170A gaming M7
- Mono-block: EK-FB MSI Z170G Monoblock - Nickel

The problem i have is the following.
When i center the holes from the mono-block onto the motherboard 2 holes does not fit. And when i try to center these 2 holes, then the other 8 doesnt fit correctly.

In the following image the 2 holes that i cant fit are marked with the green circles.



Has this happened to anybody aswell?
Is there something i can do about it?

i will try to make some real images, but im at work at this moment.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vulpturius*
> 
> I hope i can ask you guys/girls some question.
> After weeks of preperation and waiting for the components to being delivered, i finally received last weekend the last components.
> So i started with my build on sunday. I prepared the wonderfull core P5 case and i wanted to install my mono-block onto my motherboard.
> 
> For info here are the components:
> 
> - Mobo: MSI Z170A gaming M7
> - Mono-block: EK-FB MSI Z170G Monoblock - Nickel
> 
> The problem i have is the following.
> When i center the holes from the mono-block onto the motherboard 2 holes does not fit. And when i try to center these 2 holes, then the other 8 doesnt fit correctly.
> 
> In the following image the 2 holes that i cant fit are marked with the green circles.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has this happened to anybody aswell?
> Is there something i can do about it?
> 
> i will try to make some real images, but im at work at this moment.


It will be better with real images to try to figure what could be the issue.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Will there be blocks for the 1050 Ti's, like how EK did blocks for the 750 Ti's two years ago?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Will there be blocks for the 1050 Ti's, like how EK did blocks for the 750 Ti's two years ago?


No idea....I will ask


----------



## AllGamer

*@akira749*
any news of the 5x *EK-AF T-Splitter 3F G1/4 - Black* I ordered?

I'm still waiting for those to complete my build.

It's sold out everywhere.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@akira749*
> any news of the 5x *EK-AF T-Splitter 3F G1/4 - Black* I ordered?
> 
> I'm still waiting for those to complete my build.
> 
> It's sold out everywhere.


The current "back in stock" date is Nov. 30th

I gave up myself and ordered some QClass2 instead.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The current "back in stock" date is Nov. 30th
> 
> I gave up myself and ordered some QClass2 instead.


...noooooooo... hmm... -_-

thanks for the news, not exactly what I was hoping to hear, but at least now I know.

I might have to consider alternatives options.

If the Caselab case arrives before Nov 30th, I might need to order some alternatives, otherwise I'll keep on waiting.

Already got 6 of those EK X at home, and needed 5 of the EK T to complete the set, If I switch to something else, I'll need to shop again for a full matching set of 6 Quad + 5 Triple.

The thing is I really like that Dice desgin, it matches the S8 case nicely









The other options don't look as appealing, the acrylic ones from PrimoChill was an option, but they are too square... maybe I could file the corners out a bit to match the EK dices


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Mega, I never said all radiators have solder that's exposed to the liquid nor did I say all of the solder has lead. Obviously, someone with a radiator that has no exposed solder doesn't need to be concerned by solder-related galvanic corrosion due to contact with the solution.
> 
> However, since you bring up solder not having lead, what is the alternative and how does it fit within the galvanic series? I assume it is Tin-Bismuth type. That is useful information that you could have posted if you wanted to be helpful.
> 
> As for steel, I posted two sets of data to back up what I wrote.
> 
> In terms of silver causing nickle to flake do you have any source data to share that shows that?


i cant find the articles, they were from back when ek had issues with the nickle you will have to locate them sorry - sorry for the delay, been busy


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i cant find the articles, they were from back when ek had issues with the nickle you will have to locate them sorry - sorry for the delay, been busy


Yep, I was told the same here as well. No need for silver in the loop which consist of nickel since they can cause problem.


----------



## NeeqOne

EK is on NewEgg. Though the prices are great, the shipping prices are just a bit expensive.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> EK is on NewEgg. Though the prices are great, the shipping prices are just a bit expensive.


"Out of Stock"

I think that they don't yet have their stock and threw up everything to gauge the interest in the EK lineup using the "notify" feature. Relatively sure those shipping prices will change once they get stock, or those shipping prices are direct from EK.









~Ceadder


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> EK is on NewEgg. Though the prices are great, the shipping prices are just a bit expensive.


Too bad it isn't in Canada NewEgg...


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Too bad it isn't in Canada NewEgg...


Why not order directly from EK web store?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Too bad it isn't in Canada NewEgg...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not order directly from EK web store?
Click to expand...

That's what I normally get stuck doing, or sometimes NCIX will have EK's more popular current items, like I know that have RX480 blocks right now on their site.

Being a fellow Canadian, I'm sure you've been killed by import fees, duties, and C.O.D. charges in deliveries after already paying that little bit more with the exchange rate. And also the shipping time, I would much rather pay the same thing to get it shipped from somewhere already in Canada especially if they also offer a 30-day return/DOA period *in case* something goes wrong.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> That's what I normally get stuck doing, or sometimes NCIX will have EK's more popular current items, like I know that have RX480 blocks right now on their site.
> 
> Being a fellow Canadian, *I'm sure you've been killed by import fees, duties, and C.O.D. charges in deliveries after already paying that little bit more with the exchange rate. And also the shipping time*, I would much rather pay the same thing to get it shipped from somewhere already in Canada especially if they also offer a 30-day return/DOA period *in case* something goes wrong.


Unfortunate but true.
However is not all that bad depending on which SHIPPING company you use.
avoid UPS they have the worse rates.
Using FedEx while they do the import duties and stuff, it's little compared to UPS,
UPS they charge you the import plus their own "management fee" plus something else, basically you are paying ad eye and a leg even for a small shipment of $40 worth of items. which is ridiculous.

DHL is also pretty good on import fees, like FedEx they are decent, they don't kill you on over-head fees, the only downside of DHL they don't have many local depots if you missed the door to door delivery.

speaking of which UPS is not better, they only have one HUGE warehouse near York University campus here in the GTA, while FedEX they have warehouses all over the city, so it's a lot easier and convenient to pick up missed shipments.

I actually prefer to pick up the items directly from FedEx warehouses as they are all conveniently located close to my work places.

As for shipping time, I generally get stuff faster from Europe to Canada (average 1 week, 5 to 7 days), than from USA to Canada (2 weeks, even if it's coming from New York)... ironic i know.
Especially from UK and Germany, super fast shipment even using their local equivalent of Canada Post (Royal Post, and forgot name for the German postal office.)

But anyway, what you say is true, if it's local, then it's only 2 or 3 days at most to reach your door steps, and you get to return the items back to their local stores if anything happens.


----------



## axipher

DHL and USPS are my preffered shipping methods thus far.

Shipping is just one of those great things about living in the Great White North isn't it


----------



## neSSa




----------



## Iceman2733

I love the look of the FC-Terminals I wish they would make the plugs on both ends and none on the side. It would allow you to run both inlet and outlet on the bottom makes more sense that way easier to pipe and better looking IMO cmon EK help us out with this request


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> I love the look of the FC-Terminals I wish they would make the plugs on both ends and none on the side. It would allow you to run both inlet and outlet on the bottom makes more sense that way easier to pipe and better looking IMO cmon EK help us out with this request


It's actually not too hard to do that for yourself . . . . .

I had to do it for my tri-fire Asus Matrix 7970's, those cards are wicked tall.





Darlene


----------



## Ukaz

Hi guys ! I'm mounting a watercooling setup and I'd like to know which is the inlet of the radiator ek coolstream xe 360 ?
If anyone knows, please answers... Thanks !


----------



## Kimir

A radiator does not have an inlet and outlet, both port can be used as either one or the other as the internal does not require a specific flow direction.


----------



## Ukaz

Thank you @Kimir !


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> A radiator does not have an inlet and outlet, both port can be used as either one or the other as the internal does not require a specific flow direction.


Ermmmm, . . .

Not exactly correct, but true in general.

Some of the Hardware Labs rads, where you essentially have a dual pass on top and bottom, as opposed to side by side, do have a preferred flow direction based on the direction of the airflow thru them . . . so they are the notable exception that comes to mind.

Darlene


----------



## seross69

I remember reading someone was looking for the original square EK-D5 DUAL-TOP-CSQ-BK dual D5 top. I have one I am selling here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1614863/the-original-ek-d5-dual-top-csq-bk-d5-top/0_50


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I remember reading someone was looking for the original square EK-D5 DUAL-TOP-CSQ-BK dual D5 top. I have one I am selling here
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1614863/the-original-ek-d5-dual-top-csq-bk-d5-top/0_50


That is Mr-e


----------



## Sem

I want to get new screws for my GPU terminal as the stock ones are now discoloured

looking at the manual it says I need M4x28mm DIN7984 screws

And I cant find anyone selling M4x28 low head socket cap screws

best I can do is M4x30

do you think I will be ok with the extra 2mm or not worth the risk


----------



## pdasterly

i think you already know the answer my friend
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> I want to get new screws for my GPU terminal as the stock ones are now discoloured
> 
> looking at the manual it says I need M4x28mm DIN7984 screws
> 
> And I cant find anyone selling M4x28 low head socket cap screws
> 
> best I can do is M4x30
> 
> do you think I will be ok with the extra 2mm or not worth the risk


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Will there be blocks for the 1050 Ti's, like how EK did blocks for the 750 Ti's two years ago?


We won't do blocks for the 1050 but maybe some current blocks will fit on them. We just don't have that info yet.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We won't do blocks for the 1050 but maybe some current blocks will fit on them. We just don't have that info yet.


Thanks for the update!


----------



## Enapace

I'm confused why anyone would want to watercool a 1050 surely for the price for the block and the card you could get a 1060 or near enough and that would be a better card


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> I'm confused why anyone would want to watercool a 1050 surely for the price for the block and the card you could get a 1060 or near enough and that would be a better card


Some people just want that extra silence, and adding a 1050 to an existing loop would add a pretty small amount of heat load.

But yes, water-cooling a lower end card like the 1050 isn't really worth it from a money point of view, but then again neither is most of what we do 

I went through the same thing on my Sapphire Nitro 380X, blocks were non-existent so I was looking at custom options, but in the end, decided to just save that money towards when I can afford a new GPU and water block at the same time, like possible a 1060 with water block or 480 with water block.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> I'm confused why anyone would want to watercool a 1050 surely for the price for the block and the card you could get a 1060 or near enough and that would be a better card


24/7 constant use comes to mind, aka [email protected] and BOINC... Or those who want a silent yet somewhat high performance HTPC... Or those with cases that may not have the best of airflow, or cases that are stuffed into a non optimal location because it's the only place it can fit.

Sure, for a similar price you could ha e a card that performs better, but if it's still going into those scenarios the initial problem isn't solved, especially a 24/7 100% load where there's a rather steady amount of heat being put out... Watercooling a gpu can help extend it's life a great deal in such circumstances.


----------



## Kenjiwing

EK reps is there any concern about your water block and the recent EVGA ftw issue regarding no cooling with thermalpads on their coolers? Wanted to know if I need to be worried about this since I have a EK block on it and not the stock cooler.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> EK reps is there any concern about your water block and the recent EVGA ftw issue regarding no cooling with thermalpads on their coolers? Wanted to know if I need to be worried about this since I have a EK block on it and not the stock cooler.


I suspect it won't be an issue as the problem lies with the design of the acx cooler itself. Pretty much every waterblock is known for having a section set up to keep the vrm nice and cool, as well as thermal pads included.


----------



## AllGamer

*Quick Question*:

is the *EK-Supremacy EVO* block compatible with the original LGA2011 ?
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-nickel

on the page it says:

*CPU socket compatibility:*
- Intel LGA-1150/1151/1155/1156
- Intel LGA-*2011(-3)*

it's kind of confusing, so does that mean *LGA2011 nothing before v3* or *LGA2011 v3 not supported*?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *Quick Question*:
> 
> is the *EK-Supremacy EVO* block compatible with the original LGA2011 ?
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-nickel
> 
> on the page it says:
> 
> *CPU socket compatibility:*
> - Intel LGA-1150/1151/1155/1156
> - Intel LGA-*2011(-3)*
> 
> it's kind of confusing, so does that mean *LGA2011 nothing before v3* or *LGA2011 v3 not supported*?


The Socket type of 2011 is supported. V3 is supported. Valid question, but you are overthinking this.

TCO


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Socket type of 2011 is supported. V3 is supported. Valid question, but you are overthinking this.
> 
> TCO


Thanks!

seems like I did, indeed









but it would have been easier if they listed LGA2011 (all versions) or something along that line.
usually you would associate -3 as negative 3







as in no v3


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> seems like I did, indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but it would have been easier if they listed LGA2011 (all versions) or something along that line.
> usually you would associate -3 as negative 3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as in no v3


Or 2011-3 (As in 2011 all the way to version 3) In case there was an iteration of V1, V2 Etc.

That's how I always saw it.

TCO


----------



## LegoFarmer

Does this look bad? I don't think it's corrosion, but algae + plasticizer. I saw similar stuff last year, but everything looked okay when I opened the block, I still cleaned it.

I don't have time to flush and clean for another 10 days, so I'm really anxious about this. I've been told by a friend that it's probably just gunk that will take some scrubbing to get rid of (the actual flow tracks look fine even in other pictures I took w/ no signs of weirdness).


----------



## mizer357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> Does this look bad? I don't think it's corrosion, but algae + plasticizer. I saw similar stuff last year, but everything looked okay when I opened the block, I still cleaned it.
> 
> I don't have time to flush and clean for another 10 days, so I'm really anxious about this. I've been told by a friend that it's probably just gunk that will take some scrubbing to get rid of (the actual flow tracks look fine even in other pictures I took w/ no signs of weirdness).


Looks like a bit of nickel corrosion to me, exposing the underlying copper. If that's the case, scrubbing the affected areas will only pronounce the effect.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> Does this look bad? I don't think it's corrosion, but algae + plasticizer. I saw similar stuff last year, but everything looked okay when I opened the block, I still cleaned it.
> 
> I don't have time to flush and clean for another 10 days, so I'm really anxious about this. I've been told by a friend that it's probably just gunk that will take some scrubbing to get rid of (the actual flow tracks look fine even in other pictures I took w/ no signs of weirdness).


Yep, it's nickel corrosion. I had the same thing happened to me two months ago with my waterblock...










My blocks has been shipped to EK for the 'replating process' since they don't have the replacement block for it (EOL). It hasn't arrived back yet but it's a long way over the other side of the world


----------



## nzphil

Oh I didn't know they did replating. How much did that cost if you don't mind me asking?


----------



## emsj86

By any chance does anyone have a link to all ek gtx 1070 water blocks. I see there is one for EVGA SC, gigabyte g1, and Msi gaming x. I m wanting to know if there are any others and if there is a block for EVGA FtW and Asus strix


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> By any chance does anyone have a link to all ek gtx 1070 water blocks. I see there is one for EVGA SC, gigabyte g1, and Msi gaming x. I m wanting to know if there are any others and if there is a block for EVGA FtW and Asus strix


www.coolingconfigurator.com

Most 1080 blocks will fit their 1070 counterpart.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> By any chance does anyone have a link to all ek gtx 1070 water blocks. I see there is one for EVGA SC, gigabyte g1, and Msi gaming x. I m wanting to know if there are any others and if there is a block for EVGA FtW and Asus strix


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> www.coolingconfigurator.com
> 
> Most 1080 blocks will fit their 1070 counterpart.


or to make it even more simple get the MSI GTX 1070 EK edition https://ca.msi.com/Graphics-card/GeForce-GTX-1070-SEA-HAWK-EK-X.html#hero-overview



newegg has it nicely priced


----------



## emsj86

I'm up in the air on the EVGA FtW 1070 or Msi gaming x. I hear the gaming x is better. I just wish ek had a block for it that covered the whole card. Yes I know it's a full cover card but it doesn't cover the full pcb like the other blocks which to me look s better


----------



## superstition222

Acrylic ports? That doesn't seem like the most robust thing to have.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Acrylic ports? That doesn't seem like the most robust thing to have.


Nothing wrong with acrylic ports. Should they start "cracking" due to ham fisted fitting installation you can simply purchase new ones. Unlike back in the day when you had to replace the whole cover. I'd rather go with Acetal but some like Acrylic for the glowiness provided by LEDs.









~Ceadder


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzphil*
> 
> Oh I didn't know they did replating. How much did that cost if you don't mind me asking?


It didn't cost me anything, it's free since I'm within the RMA period.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Oh I have a question for you guys..

I got this Monsoon Matte Black fitting that comes with Silver barb.

Will that effect EK Nickel waterblock? Not sure if I read it somewhere else that EK recommend against using sliver in the loop with nickel waterblocks?


----------



## Malik

project HEX in progress


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> project HEX in progress
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is there a build log?


----------



## Sazexa

Any news on the HB SLI bridge?


----------



## fitzy-775

Getting there, need to order some rotary extender fittings.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Any news on the HB SLI bridge?


From EK:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi guys! I asked again about this product and sadly received an information about the fact that we won't make it.
> 
> I'm very sorry about that.


----------



## FrancisJF

I'm about to watercool my friends pc in a couple of days, I just wanna make sure that if I can use just distilled water on his loop since he bought nickel plated cpu and gpu waterblocks.


----------



## nzphil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> I'm about to watercool my friends pc in a couple of days, I just wanna make sure that if I can use just distilled water on his loop since he bought nickel plated cpu and gpu waterblocks.


Yes distilled is fine. But you can't just use distilled by itself. You need something to stop algae growing.


----------



## HeyThereGuy

Just placing an order to build my loop. With this thermal pad issue on the EVGA 1080 FTW, are any additional thermal pads required for the backplate side with the EK backplate? Should I be fine with just the EK blocks $ backplates and included thermal pads? Thanks.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Oh I have a question for you guys..
> 
> I got this Monsoon Matte Black fitting that comes with Silver barb.
> 
> Will that effect EK Nickel waterblock? Not sure if I read it somewhere else that EK recommend against using sliver in the loop with nickel waterblocks?


Well?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Well?


didn't you JUST have a block replated by ek for nickel corrosion? Do you want to do that again? Don't use silver with nickel please! Get different fittings


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> didn't you JUST have a block replated by ek for nickel corrosion? Do you want to do that again? Don't use silver with nickel please! Get different fittings


No I didn't have the same fitting. I was using the older Monsoon fittings which has normal barb. The newer version sets of fittings have silver barbs now... Hope it clears up the confusion.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> No I didn't have the same fitting. I was using the older Monsoon fittings which has normal barb. The newer version sets of fittings have silver barbs now... Hope it clears up the confusion.


it's not about if these fittings caused your last problem... it will cause new problems is what I'm saying. using silver in a loop with nickel is asking for issues, like nickel corrosion.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> it's not about if these fittings caused your last problem... it will cause new problems is what I'm saying. using silver in a loop with nickel is asking for issues, like nickel corrosion.


You don't get it. I got some nickel corrosion happening without any silver in the loop.
What I'm asking is confirmation from EK that using this new silver barb fittings from Monsoon is a bad idea or not.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> You don't get it. I got some nickel corrosion happening without any silver in the loop.
> What I'm asking is confirmation from EK that using this new silver barb fittings from Monsoon is a bad idea or not.


ok bud


----------



## zenix

Anyone still using EK Supreme LT? I am using that Block since 2010. It works good for bare-die cooling because of the simple mounting.


----------



## pdasterly

in response to questions above, should i remove my silver coil from loop.
I have a mixture of just about everything, using distilled water and primochill Liquid Utopia and dye
acetal\nickel cpu, nb and ram block
plexi\nickel sb
acetal\copper gpu
plexi\copper gpu

edit: I wondered why my cpu was running hot


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> You don't get it. I got some nickel corrosion happening without any silver in the loop.
> What I'm asking is confirmation from EK that using this new silver barb fittings from Monsoon is a bad idea or not.


Did you not read what he said. He said the new fitting you have with the SILVeR barb will cause problems with the nickel blocks in you re loop. Nickel and silver don't mix well. And for the guy that asked about removing his silver kill coil yes remove it no reason for those anymore idk who is recommending them because there old and no use for them anymore. And I think you re pictured answered the question of you should remove it or not


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyThereGuy*
> 
> Just placing an order to build my loop. With this thermal pad issue on the EVGA 1080 FTW, are any additional thermal pads required for the backplate side with the EK backplate? Should I be fine with just the EK blocks $ backplates and included thermal pads? Thanks.


bump I too would like to know this and if so what pads will be needed sorry for double post


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Well?
> 
> 
> 
> didn't you JUST have a block replated by ek for nickel corrosion? Do you want to do that again? Don't use silver with nickel please! Get different fittings
Click to expand...

Annnnnnnh! Wrong. The galvanic chart pertains to saltwater aquariums. No salt ever is introduced to a watercooling loop. Hence the lack of it nullifies that reaction to a copper and brass loop. Atop of that BoxGods has cleared up any question of it with his explanation that the silver plating is minimal and is intended to wear away over time. He addressed the issue in one of the Monsoon threads if you need clarification, since I am simply paraphrasing what went down. I would cite my source but mention this info should suffice sine I don't intend to spam the EK thread.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Annnnnnnh! Wrong. The galvanic chart pertains to saltwater aquariums. No salt ever is introduced to a watercooling loop. Hence the lack of it nullifies that reaction to a copper and brass loop. Atop of that BoxGods has cleared up any question of it with his explanation that the silver plating is minimal and is intended to wear away over time. He addressed the issue in one of the Monsoon threads if you need clarification, since I am simply paraphrasing what went down. I would cite my source but mention this info should suffice sine I don't intend to spam the EK thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You are 100% right the block manufacturers just use this so they so not have to pay for a bad coating on blocks!!


----------



## davidm71

Hi,

I got the Triple terminal bridge even though I'm only cooling two gpus with a three slot gap in between them (or the space of a double slot card + single slot belonging to first video card). Thing is the middle ports need the blank terminal to seal them off and i'm not crazy about why its got to be thick and have g1/4 ports? I mean wouldnt it be safer to just run compression fittings from each gpu block top? Worried it could leak?

Thanks


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I got the Triple terminal bridge even though I'm only cooling two gpus with a three slot gap in between them (or the space of a double slot card + single slot belonging to first video card). Thing is the middle ports need the blank terminal to seal them off and i'm not crazy about why its got to be thick and have g1/4 ports? I mean wouldnt it be safer to just run compression fittings from each gpu block top? Worried it could leak?
> 
> Thanks


it has O-rings inside that seals the water off


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Annnnnnnh! Wrong. The galvanic chart pertains to saltwater aquariums. No salt ever is introduced to a watercooling loop. Hence the lack of it nullifies that reaction to a copper and brass loop. Atop of that BoxGods has cleared up any question of it with his explanation that the silver plating is minimal and is intended to wear away over time. He addressed the issue in one of the Monsoon threads if you need clarification, since I am simply paraphrasing what went down. I would cite my source but mention this info should suffice sine I don't intend to spam the EK thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Right, Yeah I was hoping to hear it from EK staff themselves because I don't want to risk any nickel corrosion in the loop. I know few ppl has stated it's not safe to use silver but I want assurance from EK for warranty purpose.

Better safe than sorry


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Annnnnnnh! Wrong. The galvanic chart pertains to saltwater aquariums. No salt ever is introduced to a watercooling loop. Hence the lack of it nullifies that reaction to a copper and brass loop. Atop of that BoxGods has cleared up any question of it with his explanation that the silver plating is minimal and is intended to wear away over time. He addressed the issue in one of the Monsoon threads if you need clarification, since I am simply paraphrasing what went down. I would cite my source but mention this info should suffice sine I don't intend to spam the EK thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> Better safe than sorry
Click to expand...

Understandable.









~Ceadder


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> it has O-rings inside that seals the water off


Still seems risky

Thanks


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Still seems risky
> 
> Thanks


I do indeed have a triple bridge as well and only uses two with middle blocked off. It works perfectly fine. It's sealed shut tight once you tighten it with the hex key..






As you can see from my built logs, you'll be fine, trust me. Just make sure the plate and the o-ring are in the right place that all.


----------



## jonathan13

Good evening guys and gals. I wanted to hop in this thread with a quick question. I wanted to get some opinions before I make my next purchase. My Predator sprung a leak (I'm not sure how long it has been leaking). It was completely my fault as I had put entirely too much pressure on the hoses when maneuvering it into it's new home in the front of my Phanteks Pro M Acrylic. One of the tubes going into the rad, ended up slipping out about 1mm from the fitting, which was just enough to cause a decent leak, but one that wasn't detectable. Luckily, I had decided to do some trading with a friend, and tonight when we were swapping CPUs and motherboards, I found the leak. It had started to puddle in the bottom of my case, and had crept about 1/3 of the way to my PSU. Again, I am just glad I found it now, before it actually did any damage.









In the mean time, I have installed a spare Hyper 212 Evo that I purchased just for this scenario. My question is, would you all recommend going ahead and adding a reservoir while I am taking care of the leak? I don't mind spending the extra money, but I also swap components fairly frequently as I have a YouTube channel and I am always reviewing new hardware (mainly GPUs). I figure that if I add a res in front of/ underneath the GPU (EK X3 110mm), it might pose an issue when swapping out GPUs. The 110mm from EK, might be just small enough to fit under the GPU unless I swapped in a card with a huge cooler like the Amp Extreme from Zotac, which is definitely possible. I just don't want to spend the extra money and then have it make my life that much harder when swapping parts. At this time, I do plan on going with soft tubing though, so I suppose I could always just un-mount the res and move it to the side since there would be no rigid tubing holding me back.

Let me know your thoughts! I appreciate everyone's time!


----------



## superstition222

I've done a bunch of research on coolants and corrosion and what I've read has soundly put to rest the notion that plain distilled is all one needs, along with frequent water changes. It's not true. In fact, I have yet to see a formula that has been tested in an article that stops corrosion altogether that is based on deionized water rather than something like ethanol. However, with the right formulation it does seem to be possible to slow the corrosion to a crawl.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzphil*
> 
> Yes distilled is fine. But you can't just use distilled by itself. You need something to stop algae growing.


And corrosion. Not just galvanic corrosion but corrosion from CO2 dissolving into the water. (And, bacteria is much more of a worry than algae because a coating of hungry bacteria can pit metals.) You can try to put in oxygen scavengers to deal with CO2 or to protect the copper surface with an inhibitor (usually a triazole) which also helps to reduce the influence of galvanic corrosion. In one experiment done by a conservationist, the only method of totally preventing copper corrosion was to use a .1M BTA and .01M AMT combination in ethanol. The performance in deionized water was less impressive (4 of 10 samples developed some corrosion) but that combo was still the most effective versus the other combinations he tried. (Notably he did not test tolyltriazole). BTA not only forms a protective layer on the copper surface it captures free ions in the water.

Benzotriazole (BTA) is the most common inhibitor and tolyltriazole is the second-most common one. The latter typically has a strong odor from impurities but one article I read said it offers a thinner more hydrophobic protective film than BTA. However, another article I read found higher copper losses with it than with BTA. BTA is not effective in lower pH but our water loops should not be at a pH below 7 and are better around 8.5 from what I've read. Aluminum does not like a higher pH (10?). Scale formation becomes an issue at too high a pH as well. As I understand it, the borate buffer helps to keep pH at the correct level. However, the commercial formulations I've seen don't have borate by itself for the buffering. But, these are for industrial water systems.

BTA and TTA are both persistent in water, resisting being biodegraded so people using these should not just dump the waste water.

One issue that has to be avoided with inhibitors are spots where the film is not intact which tend to produce the worst corrosion.

Beyond organic inhibitors one needs a buffer (often borax, sometimes supplemented with a stronger base) to maintain the correct pH, a biocide that's compatible with triazole, and possibly a surfactant. Aluminum and iron/steel parts may be helped with the addition of a small amount of sodium molybdate. One biocide is glycol at >20%. If one maintains a glycol concentration of at least 20% it's not necessary to have an additional biocide. However, if it drops below 20%, watch out. The only other use of glycol is to dissolve certain heavy triazoles like napthotriazole (which isn't readily available for purchase anyway) - unless you need the antifreeze property.

From what I've read the simplest coolant is distilled water, plus BTA, plus borate, plus a compatible organic biocide (not copper sulfate). TTA (tolyltriazole) may also be a useful alternative to BTA. Having AMT with BTA is likely optimal (.1M BTA, .01M AMT) but how well AMT performs in a heated loop with lots of water movement is something I'd have to investigate.

This is for accelerators but the basics are applicable. As far as I know, the copper oxides can significantly impair thermal transfer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R. Dortwegt*
> Oxygen (O2) and carbon dioxide (CO2) are present in water due to interactions with the atmosphere. An oxide forms at the metal surface, which, in the absence of other influences, is stable. The presence of CO2 in the water results in the formation of carbonic acid (H2CO3), which dissociates into HCO3- and hydrogen ions (H+). H+, which has an affinity for the oxygen component of the oxide, readily forms water. The copper at the surface is now left in its ionic form and readily dissolves. The metal surface, now unprotected by the oxide, is again exposed to water, DO, and H+ - allowing the process to recur.
> 
> Components made of copper are routinely cooled by deionized (DI), low-conductivity water. Release of copper oxides from the parent surface is common. Releases comprise reddish-brown residue (Cu2O) and, depending on the concentration of dissolved oxygen (DO), *black residue* (CuO).
> 
> 
> 
> [H+] also influences the corrosion rate. The rate is minimized at pH values approaching 8.5 and greater. For pH values below 7.0, the copper ion is stable in solution. Formation of the ion occurs from the oxide state when pH is just below 7.0. Replacement of the oxygen component of the oxide occurs readily under these conditions. For pH values above 7.0, the preferred form of the metal is the oxide. Replacement of the oxygen component of the oxide does not occur and slows the corrosion mechanism. This is consistent with Fig. 2 and provides an understanding of reduced corrosion rates when the solution is alkaline.


As for silver, it should be more compatible with nickle than with copper from the charts I've seen. It should not be the source of a flaking issue or a corrosion of nickle issue. However, I also doubt that silver is going to be very effective as a biocide if one has the necessary triazole inhibitors in one's coolant. I could be wrong about this, though. I haven't done much investigation into silver as a biocide in a solution with various inhibitors. There is a lot more material about copper corrosion and inhibitors.

Interestingly, BTA can form a protective film with bare metal and with oxidized copper. The oxidized copper film is stronger but forms more slowly. However, I doubt that it is as good for thermal transfer. So, I think the best thing would be to clean the copper then dip it into an inhibitor solution then put the loop together and use a coolant that has an inhibitor at a lower concentration - or just quickly install the loop and skip the dipping.

Interestingly, I did discover that iodine (KI) does enhance the formation of the inhibitory layer on copper with BTA. However, disappointingly, the concentration of BTA has to be low or it has no effect (according to the one experiment that looked at this). It's also inferior to BTA + AMT. I was hoping that iodine would be more beneficial so it could also be used for its biological inhibitory effect. But, anything above .01M of KI was a corrosion accelerator.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyThereGuy*
> 
> Just placing an order to build my loop. With this thermal pad issue on the EVGA 1080 FTW, are any additional thermal pads required for the backplate side with the EK backplate? Should I be fine with just the EK blocks $ backplates and included thermal pads? Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> bump I too would like to know this and if so what pads will be needed sorry for double post


Yes you'll be fine. We include thermal pads with our backplate and one of them goes over the VRM's


----------



## HeyThereGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes you'll be fine. We include thermal pads with our backplate and one of them goes over the VRM's


Thanks for the info. Got everything ordered. Now just playing the waiting game with shipping is left.


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> I do indeed have a triple bridge as well and only uses two with middle blocked off. It works perfectly fine. It's sealed shut tight once you tighten it with the hex key..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see from my built logs, you'll be fine, trust me. Just make sure the plate and the o-ring are in the right place that all.


Thanks for sharing the pics. Looks good!

Side note: Anyone know if a bitspower res is compatible with a EK res combo top?

Thanks


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Thanks for sharing the pics. Looks good!
> 
> Side note: Anyone know if a bitspower res is compatible with a EK res combo top?
> 
> Thanks


I don't believe they are compatible. The EK tubes are threaded on the outside and the Bitspower tubes are threaded on the inside.


----------



## emsj86

They don't work together


----------



## fitzy-775

Hey guys

Can i connect 3 4pin fans to one cpu header on my motherboard?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> Can i connect 3 4pin fans to one cpu header on my motherboard?


Can you yes but is it a good idea???? NO


----------



## looniam

if the 4 fans stay under 1 amp, like F4 120mm vadars, don't know what the issue is.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> if the 4 fans stay under 1 amp, like F4 120mm vadars, don't know what the issue is.


Like you said if and I personally would not want to damage my MB because of a bad fan


----------



## fitzy-775

Ok so i got 3 f4 2200rpm vardar fans on my radiator. Whats the best way to have them setup?


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> Can i connect three 4pin fans to one cpu header on my motherboard?


You can, but the correct way to do it is to use a PWM fan splitter such as one of the Phobya ones. It needs to be the type of splitter that takes the PWM signal from the MB fan header, but draws the power directly from the PSU by way of a molex or sata power connector.


----------



## akira749

New soft tubing from EK : EK releases new EK-DuraClear transparent tubing!









In the last days/weeks we also had a few new products :

EK-Cable PWM Fan Adapter for GPU (50cm)
Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut (1.5mL / 3,9g)


----------



## Ceadderman

Gonna get me a couple of those PWM connectors. But did they have to be so long?









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Gonna get me a couple of those PWM connectors. But did they have to be so long?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


To cover most possibilities of case sizes.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Gonna get me a couple of those PWM connectors. But did they have to be so long?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To cover most possibilities of case sizes.
Click to expand...

I figured that after asking. I will simply short them to clean up the length since my 60mm GPU fans mount to my GPU heatsinks.









~Ceadder


----------



## scracy

Hi Guys
Ready to join the EK club, I have never done hard line tubing before here is some pictures of my first ever attempt all water cooling parts are EK except the fans








EK Parts include.
EK-PE-360 Top Radiator
EK-PE-240 Front Radiator
EK-XRES 140 D5 PWM Pump/Res Combo
EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Block
EK-FC1070 GTX Water Blocks x2
EK-FC Terminal Dual Parallel


----------



## batmanwcm

I"m trying to buy a used Gigabyte 980ti G1 Gaming card that comes with a EK-FC980 GTX Ti WF3 full coverage block and backplate. The problem is the current owner states EK never included the backplate screws. So I'm looking to find the replacement screws. According to this EK backplate installation manual, the backplate uses 6 of these "M2,5X6 DIN7985" screws.

Is it this one? EK Replacement Screw - M2.5 x 6 (Vijak M2,5x6 DIN7985)
If it is, I'm a little leery buying anything from frozencpu these days. How are they now?

Edit: Here is the pic of the backplate


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> I"m trying to buy a used Gigabyte 980ti G1 Gaming card that comes with a EK-FC980 GTX Ti WF3 full coverage block and backplate. The problem is the current owner states EK never included the backplate screws. So I'm looking to find the replacement screws. According to this EK backplate installation manual, the backplate uses 6 of these "M2,5X6 DIN7985" screws.
> 
> Is it this one? EK Replacement Screw - M2.5 x 6 (Vijak M2,5x6 DIN7985)
> If it is, I'm a little leery buying anything from frozencpu these days. How are they now?


Its not unusual for EK to forget to include the screws for backplates the backplates for my 1070's didnt come with screws. I purchased a backplate for a 1080 which i cut up to make a backplate for my sound card which did have screws included. Maybe try ebay or your local bolt/screw shop might be your best bet. Usually backplate screws are countersunk so I doubt thats the right screw though the thread size seems right.


----------



## batmanwcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Its not unusual for EK to forget to include the screws for backplates the backplates for my 1070's didnt come with screws. I purchased a backplate for a 1080 which i cut up to make a backplate for my sound card which did have screws included. Maybe try ebay or your local bolt/screw shop might be your best bet. Usually backplate screws are countersunk so I doubt thats the right screw though the thread size seems right.


I just edited my post and added a pic of the backplate. It doesn't look like it uses countersunk screws but I can't be sure.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> I just edited my post and added a pic of the backplate. It doesn't look like it uses countersunk screws but I can't be sure.


Im looking at your post on a phone so its hard to see but they look like recessed holes to me.


----------



## AllGamer

it's really nice, simple and clean
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Hi Guys
> Ready to join the EK club, I have never done hard line tubing before here is some pictures of my first ever attempt all water cooling parts are EK except the fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK Parts include.
> EK-PE-360 Top Radiator
> EK-PE-240 Front Radiator
> EK-XRES 140 D5 PWM Pump/Res Combo
> EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Block
> EK-FC1070 GTX Water Blocks x2
> EK-FC Terminal Dual Parallel


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's really nice, simple and clean


Thanks







tried very hard to keep it clean and relatively simple, probably spent more time selecting parts reading reviews and watching youtube videos mostly by JayzTwoCents (particularly about the water cooling) than what I did actually building it lol...still very happy with results.


----------



## cadger

Anyone know if this is compatible with the newer EK pump + res combos?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-holder-d5-v3

+

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadger*
> 
> Anyone know if this is compatible with the newer EK pump + res combos?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-holder-d5-v3
> 
> +
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump


I have one of those pump/res combos,nope not compatible.
Try https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan
or https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical
or either of the 140mm equivalents


----------



## cadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> I have one of those pump/res combos,nope not compatible.


Alright thanks for the help.


----------



## batmanwcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Im looking at your post on a phone so its hard to see but they look like recessed holes to me.


I know this is a stupid question, but I still have to ask. The EK describes the needed screws as M2,5X6 DIN7985. Is that the same as M2.5x6mm?

I also found this set that might actually do the trick since it seems to be the same size.
https://www.amazon.com/Laptop-M2-5x6MM-PM2-5X6-0-M2-5X6L-LaptopScrewsDirect/dp/B00BW3QALW

If not, I might just order the FrozenCPU one.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18631/scr-617/EK_Replacement_Screw_-_M25_x_6_Vijak_M25x6_DIN7985.html

Can any EK Rep confirm?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> I know this is a stupid question, but I still have to ask. The EK describes the needed screws as M2,5X6 DIN7985. Is that the same as M2.5x6mm?
> 
> I also found this set that might actually do the trick since it seems to be the same size.
> https://www.amazon.com/Laptop-M2-5x6MM-PM2-5X6-0-M2-5X6L-LaptopScrewsDirect/dp/B00BW3QALW
> 
> If not, I might just order the FrozenCPU one.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18631/scr-617/EK_Replacement_Screw_-_M25_x_6_Vijak_M25x6_DIN7985.html
> 
> Can any EK Rep confirm?


The needed screws are usually included, if you purchased it new.

however if you need special sizes, longer or shorter, then yes, you will need to match the original thread size.

Personally I'll just pick up a screw from the set, and take it to Homedepot or any other hardware store that carries huge selection of screws, then you can pick the length that fits you better.


----------



## pdasterly

those are machine screws, home depot not going to have right size


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> I"m trying to buy a used Gigabyte 980ti G1 Gaming card that comes with a EK-FC980 GTX Ti WF3 full coverage block and backplate. The problem is the current owner states EK never included the backplate screws. So I'm looking to find the replacement screws. According to this EK backplate installation manual, the backplate uses 6 of these "M2,5X6 DIN7985" screws.
> 
> Is it this one? EK Replacement Screw - M2.5 x 6 (Vijak M2,5x6 DIN7985)
> If it is, I'm a little leery buying anything from frozencpu these days. How are they now?
> 
> Edit: Here is the pic of the backplate
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hi,

I will check to be sure but from what I remember, the screws are countersunk so the ones you linked from FCPU wouldn't be ideal.

I'll let you know ASAP.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Hi Guys
> Ready to join the EK club, I have never done hard line tubing before here is some pictures of my first ever attempt all water cooling parts are EK except the fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK Parts include.
> EK-PE-360 Top Radiator
> EK-PE-240 Front Radiator
> EK-XRES 140 D5 PWM Pump/Res Combo
> EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Block
> EK-FC1070 GTX Water Blocks x2
> EK-FC Terminal Dual Parallel


Looks great! Especially for a first water build. What coolant did you use?


----------



## batmanwcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I will check to be sure but from what I remember, the screws are countersunk so the ones you linked from FCPU wouldn't be ideal.
> 
> I'll let you know ASAP.


Awesome, thanks. The card is on its way to me now.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Looks great! Especially for a first water build. What coolant did you use?


Thanks for the positive response







I used EK Pastel Red coolant which I felt suited the ROG themed build. This was not my first water cooling effort but it is my first with PETG tubing


----------



## fitzy-775

Best way to get these fittings apart?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> Best way to get these fittings apart?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


if those have the allen key indents on the inside of the barb then that would be the easiest way. Otherwise I've held the fitting with a finger and a thumb by the barb and threads, then try to rotate the collar. Rubber gloves can help


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> Best way to get these fittings apart?


i would share my way but i dont want you to mess anything up


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> Best way to get these fittings apart?


9mm Allen key. If you're in the US, ace should have one.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Ashcroft

9mm keys are hard to find but an 8mm with a small ammount of electrical or other tape around it will make it work just as well


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> 9mm keys are hard to find but an 8mm with a small ammount of electrical or other tape around it will make it work just as well


9mm's are not that hard to find, just ask a mechanic lol


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> 9mm's are not that hard to find, just ask a mechanic lol


Actually you'd be quite surprised. Its like asking someone to find oyu a 9mm bolt haha. 9mm hex keys are very rarely used, if anything youd need to ask a bike/motorcycle mechanic as everything is hex. But a 9mm isn't used very often, its almost always either 8 or 10mm


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ive only run into 9mm in some fords and bmw's


----------



## Jakusonfire

In every hex key kit I've ever seen they always jump from 8mm to 10mm. I found an 8mm that was a 3/8 impact driver fitting but that was all. I bought it before I realised a bit of tape was all that was needed.


----------



## looniam

home depot
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Metric-Long-Arm-Hex-Key-Set-13-Piece-HLAHKM13PC/202934894
Quote:


> Set includes 13 Metric keys covering sizes 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 7, 8, *9*, 10mm


about 1.00385 seconds to google.

now stop.


----------



## looniam

dp derp.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> home depot
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Metric-Long-Arm-Hex-Key-Set-13-Piece-HLAHKM13PC/202934894
> about 1.00385 seconds to google.
> 
> now stop.


Wait, huh?

So if it exists on the net it must be available everywhere or something?

Nearly every other kit they have on that site skips the 9mm, which was the point, that it was rare, not non existent.

As an example, this is my local specialist tool retailer. I can't find any 9mm

http://www.gasweld.com.au/hand-tools/general-purpose-tools/allen-keys


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> home depot
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Metric-Long-Arm-Hex-Key-Set-13-Piece-HLAHKM13PC/202934894
> about 1.00385 seconds to google.
> 
> now stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait, huh?
> 
> So if it exists on the net it must be available everywhere or something?
> 
> Nearly every other kit they have on that site skips the 9mm, which was the point, that it was rare, not non existent.
> 
> As an example, this is my local specialist tool retailer. I can't find any 9mm
> 
> http://www.gasweld.com.au/hand-tools/general-purpose-tools/allen-keys
Click to expand...

like i said, it took a mere second to find it regardless if it is commonly sold kits. and that is a store chain anyone can walk into with a pretty generic name brand. so one doesn't have go to a specialists, *just put forth some effort.*

btw,
http://www.gasweld.com.au/toolex-a-key-set-comb-25pc-af-met-531272
Metric: 1.5 mm , 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 7, 8, *9*& 10

we are done here.


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Hi Guys
> Ready to join the EK club, I have never done hard line tubing before here is some pictures of my first ever attempt all water cooling parts are EK except the fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK Parts include.
> EK-PE-360 Top Radiator
> EK-PE-240 Front Radiator
> EK-XRES 140 D5 PWM Pump/Res Combo
> EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Block
> EK-FC1070 GTX Water Blocks x2
> EK-FC Terminal Dual Parallel


may i ask you where did you get red heatsink dominators ?


----------



## Daggi

Hey








Im trying to figure out what size the thread's on the EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP is,and i mean the threads for the internal Tube 12/16 mm. Is it M16 ?


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> may i ask you where did you get red heatsink dominators ?


Red top Dominator Platinums are easily available at least in Australia from most PC parts places. They are the ROG edition from Corsair same as 3200Mhz kit but with red led's instead of white and they have an extra ROG profile for 3333Mhz as well as the usual XMP 3200Mhz profile


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> may i ask you where did you get red heatsink dominators ?


Red top Dominator Platinums are easily available at least in Australia from most PC parts places. They are the ROG edition from Corsair same as 3200Mhz kit but with red led's instead of white and they have an extra ROG profile for 3333Mhz as well as the usual XMP 3200Mhz profile


----------



## Sazexa

Not entirely sure what's causing it yet, but I need to shock my pump every time I start my PC (IE; hit it or shake it really roughly) to get it to actually start pumping liquid. Any ideas?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Not entirely sure what's causing it yet, but I need to shock my pump every time I start my PC (IE; hit it or shake it really roughly) to get it to actually start pumping liquid. Any ideas?


sounds like it's time to drain your loop, clean the inside of the motor, then flush with distilled water, then replace it with new coolant


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Instead of milling it, perhaps it would be better to mold it, like it's done for cars parts of even bike frame. Still expensive, but less risk from the dust. I'd like to see more PC part made out of CF, even if it's a niche market because of the price.


Molding it is a fine option for most parts. CPU block bracket isn't one that it's feasible for. Since 50% or more is an empty, but precise space, you end either trying to get fabrics within exact tolerances of the space, and then it still requires a bit of machining anyway. Other parts are very easy. For example, motherboard cover. You can bend and cut one out of acrylic or even sheet metal (or even cardboard) and make a fairly nice mold that requires little finishing work (depending on MB) Large MBs are easier than ITX obviously.

I've actually done a few test pieces in all sorts of exotic materials. I'll post that later. One will be here as it's another EK bracket. Oh, almost forgot, I made these in titanium as well. Nice part about that is they can be anodized any color, various designs, etc very easily. And titanium is cheap right now. Market is flooded with scrap.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Is it this one? EK Replacement Screw - M2.5 x 6 (Vijak M2,5x6 DIN7985)
If it is, I'm a little leery buying anything from frozencpu these days. How are they now?
[/quote]
Dude, frozencpu is out of business. Where are you located?


----------



## batmanwcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Is it this one? EK Replacement Screw - M2.5 x 6 (Vijak M2,5x6 DIN7985)
> If it is, I'm a little leery buying anything from frozencpu these days. How are they now?


Dude, frozencpu is out of business. Where are you located?[/quote]

Brooklyn, NY.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Is it this one? EK Replacement Screw - M2.5 x 6 (Vijak M2,5x6 DIN7985)
> If it is, I'm a little leery buying anything from frozencpu these days. How are they now?


Dude, frozencpu is out of business. Where are you located?[/quote]

Frozen is back in business. But it will be a long time before I order anything from them.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Frozencpu hasn't fixed there problem there getting by on my opinion in shady ways with call to order. And a Skelton staff if that. If avoid them until things change which I hope as it was nice to have a shop where things could get delivered standard shipping in a day or two


----------



## pdasterly

Frozen still in business, I use performance pcs, ocn55 is discount code, ive been using amazon lately tho, i believe store name is titan rig
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Is it this one? EK Replacement Screw - M2.5 x 6 (Vijak M2,5x6 DIN7985)
> If it is, I'm a little leery buying anything from frozencpu these days. How are they now?


Dude, frozencpu is out of business. Where are you located?[/quote]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> Dude, frozencpu is out of business. Where are you located?


Brooklyn, NY.[/quote]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Dude, frozencpu is out of business. Where are you located?


Frozen is back in business. But it will be a long time before I order anything from them.









~Ceadder







[/quote]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Frozencpu hasn't fixed there problem there getting by on my opinion in shady ways with call to order. And a Skelton staff if that. If avoid them until things change which I hope as it was nice to have a shop where things could get delivered standard shipping in a day or two


----------



## Sazexa

Not entirely sure what's causing it yet, but I need to shock my pump every time I start my PC (IE; hit it or shake it really roughly) to get it to actually start pumping liquid. Any ideas?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> sounds like it's time to drain your loop, clean the inside of the motor, then flush with distilled water, then replace it with new coolant


The loop has only been running for maybe two months now, and all pretty much new parts. And the parts that weren't new, I cleaned prior to use.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

@pdasterly

Wut the...?

When did FrozenCPU start selling stuff again? I wont order from them. Maybe in the very far off future. But Im not sure Id even do it then. ModMyMods has been too good to me


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> Dude, frozencpu is out of business. Where are you located?


Brooklyn, NY.[/quote]

Ok, Im in CT. Let me figure out tomorrow what those screws are. I have so many extra from various EK water blocks and backplates. If I have them I'll drop them in the mail to you. And if I have them they are extra that were never used as well. Do me a favor, send me a DM on here as a reminder. Only because I will see it in my email and it will be in front of my face all day tomorrow. Its the only way Im going to remember


----------



## batmanwcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Brooklyn, NY.


Ok, Im in CT. Let me figure out tomorrow what those screws are. I have so many extra from various EK water blocks and backplates. If I have them I'll drop them in the mail to you. And if I have them they are extra that were never used as well. Do me a favor, send me a DM on here as a reminder. Only because I will see it in my email and it will be in front of my face all day tomorrow. Its the only way Im going to remember[/quote]

Man, that is awesome. Thank you so much.


----------



## pdasterly

ordered a bunch of stuff from them back in march, amazon is my go to now since i have prime and free two day shipping, free returns and superior customer service
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> @pdasterly
> 
> Wut the...?
> 
> When did FrozenCPU start selling stuff again? I wont order from them. Maybe in the very far off future. But Im not sure Id even do it then. ModMyMods has been too good to me


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> Best way to get these fittings apart?


What's your fitting size?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im trying to figure out what size the thread's on the EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP is,and i mean the threads for the internal Tube 12/16 mm. Is it M16 ?


It's M16x1,5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Not entirely sure what's causing it yet, but I need to shock my pump every time I start my PC (IE; hit it or shake it really roughly) to get it to actually start pumping liquid. Any ideas?


Is it a D5 or a DDC? Is it a pump/res combo or a simple top?


----------



## axipher

@akira749 I have an EK Supremacy MX that developed a crack along the side of the G1/4 threaded hole right along one of the "support walls" on the acrylic portion of the block, under neath the black top plate and now leaks like crazy and can't be used. Is it possible to get just the replacement acrylic portion since the copper base, brackets, and black metal top plate are all still perfectly functional?


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> @akira749
> I have an EK Supremacy MX that developed a crack along the side of the G1/4 threaded hole right along one of the "support walls" on the acrylic portion of the block, under neath the black top plate and now leaks like crazy and can't be used. Is it possible to get just the replacement acrylic portion since the copper base, brackets, and black metal top plate are all still perfectly functional?


I think it is. I had an awesome experience with EK support. Just file an RMA and they will contact you.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> @akira749
> I have an EK Supremacy MX that developed a crack along the side of the G1/4 threaded hole right along one of the "support walls" on the acrylic portion of the block, under neath the black top plate and now leaks like crazy and can't be used. Is it possible to get just the replacement acrylic portion since the copper base, brackets, and black metal top plate are all still perfectly functional?


Yes we'll be able to get you just the replacement part.









Open a ticket on our website here : https://www.ekwb.com/customer-care/


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> @akira749
> I have an EK Supremacy MX that developed a crack along the side of the G1/4 threaded hole right along one of the "support walls" on the acrylic portion of the block, under neath the black top plate and now leaks like crazy and can't be used. Is it possible to get just the replacement acrylic portion since the copper base, brackets, and black metal top plate are all still perfectly functional?
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is. I had an awesome experience with EK support. Just file an RMA and they will contact you.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> @akira749
> I have an EK Supremacy MX that developed a crack along the side of the G1/4 threaded hole right along one of the "support walls" on the acrylic portion of the block, under neath the black top plate and now leaks like crazy and can't be used. Is it possible to get just the replacement acrylic portion since the copper base, brackets, and black metal top plate are all still perfectly functional?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes we'll be able to get you just the replacement part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Open a ticket on our website here : https://www.ekwb.com/customer-care/
Click to expand...

Thanks guys, I'll get on that tonight.


----------



## rolandos582

So i'm wondering if I should get multitop for my 2x 250ml reservoirs. The space I got available with the stock top is like 5-6cm.
I'm using PrimoChill Rigid Acrylic , a bend would be pretty hard. Is there any options i could use?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolandos582*
> 
> So i'm wondering if I should get multitop for my 2x 250ml reservoirs. The space I got available with the stock top is like 5-6cm.
> I'm using PrimoChill Rigid Acrylic , a bend would be pretty hard. Is there any options i could use?


you could always use extensions fittings and/or 90 degree fittings, to then use a regular hard tube to wherever you plan to link it next.


----------



## rolandos582

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> you could always use extensions fittings and/or 90 degree fittings, to then use a regular hard tube to wherever you plan to link it next.


Yeah i guess. But whats the benefit of having a multitop then? I mean the standard one that comes with your reservoir has 1 top inlet right?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolandos582*
> 
> Yeah i guess. But whats the benefit of having a multitop then? I mean the standard one that comes with your reservoir has 1 top inlet right?


the top included with the rest has only 1 inlet (which is usually used for re-fill), so the return line is at the bottom

the multi-top is usually used for return, for people that like to see water falling "water fall effect" also used for re-fill,

it also works for people that runs 2 or more loops inside the same rig, then it can be used for additional return lines, or 1 loop with parallel lines.

basically it's used for more advanced loop designs.

or simply because it loops "prettier"








when I was contemplating using the EK multi-top, I liked it because 2 of the top ports are horizontal, so it was easier to run the return line straight into the reservoir without having to do any Bend.

Which coincide more or less with the scenario you mentioned above, hard place to make a hard tube bend, this is where the EK multi-top return gives you additional options


----------



## rolandos582

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> the top included with the rest has only 1 inlet (which is usually used for re-fill), so the return line is at the bottom
> 
> the multi-top is usually used for return, for people that like to see water falling "water fall effect" also used for re-fill,
> 
> it also works for people that runs 2 or more loops inside the same rig, then it can be used for additional return lines, or 1 loop with parallel lines.
> 
> basically it's used for more advanced loop designs.
> 
> or simply because it loops "prettier"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when I was contemplating using the EK multi-top, I liked it because 2 of the top ports are horizontal, so it was easier to run the return line straight into the reservoir without having to do any Bend.
> 
> Which coincide more or less with the scenario you mentioned above, hard place to make a hard tube bend, this is where the EK multi-top return gives you additional options


Right, i currentlly do have 2 loops. But their seperate. If i recall correctly, if a bend or 90 degree fitting is not an option. I could use the 2 holes on the sides to get it to my radiator? With the multitop obviously


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolandos582*
> 
> Right, i currentlly do have 2 loops. But their seperate. If i recall correctly, if a bend or 90 degree fitting is not an option. I could use the 2 holes on the sides to get it to my radiator? With the multitop obviously


it would help if you post some picture how it's currently mounted, or a sketch how you plan to mount the rad vs. res positions.

if the inlet port are relatively close to the rad exhaust ports, assuming the rad is on the top mounted horizontally,
then you can do a 90 degree bend, if you are using the EK multi-top,
if it''s too close, you could try using a mix of extension fittings and hard tubes.

optionally, you can have the radiator ports be on the far side of the case, and then run a long tube to the reservoir inlet on the side.

it all really depends what sort of aesthetic is your preferred.


----------



## rolandos582

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> it would help if you post some picture how it's currently mounted, or a sketch how you plan to mount the rad vs. res positions.
> 
> if the inlet port are relatively close to the rad exhaust ports, assuming the rad is on the top mounted horizontally,
> then you can do a 90 degree bend, if you are using the EK multi-top,
> if it''s too close, you could try using a mix of extension fittings and hard tubes.
> 
> optionally, you can have the radiator ports be on the far side of the case, and then run a long tube to the reservoir inlet on the side.
> 
> it all really depends what sort of aesthetic is your preferred.


This is my current build : 
I wanna get a line from top reservoir to my top rad. Currently its going on the back side off the case. And I dont want it to touch the fans on top.


----------



## Barefooter

@akira749 are there any plans to make the EK-CoolStream XE radiators in the 280, 420 and 560 sizes?

I'm planning on another build using 280s and 560s, but I need the multiport option.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolandos582*
> 
> This is my current build :
> I wanna get a line from top reservoir to my top rad. Currently its going on the back side off the case. And I dont want it to touch the fans on top.


I see plenty of space between the Top Rad and the Res, you can easily use a 90 degree fitting for the tight turn, then use regular hard tubes to go anywhere you want after that.


----------



## rolandos582

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> I see plenty of space between the Top Rad and the Res, you can easily use a 90 degree fitting for the tight turn, then use regular hard tubes to go anywhere you want after that.


Just using the same regular top? Which 90 degree are recommened? I'm using only primochill revolver and they dont have any.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolandos582*
> 
> Just using the same regular top? Which 90 degree are recommened? I'm using only primochill revolver and they dont have any.


You'll have to shop other brands, i too tried to stick to only a few brands, but in the end I ended up with pieces from pretty much everyone in the water cooling industry.

Bitspower has the largest selection of fittings, there are plenty of alternative names, it just depends if you like their product or not.
EK has 90 degree rotary, that should fit as well in that space.

for the Bitspower I was thinking of this one, it'll fit perfectly in that spot, and you can still use your primo chill hard tube fittings


----------



## Sazexa

Not entirely sure what's causing it yet, but I need to shock my pump every time I start my PC (IE; hit it or shake it really roughly) to get it to actually start pumping liquid. Any ideas?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> sounds like it's time to drain your loop, clean the inside of the motor, then flush with distilled water, then replace it with new coolant


The loop has only been running for maybe two months now, and all pretty much new parts. And the parts that
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> What's your fitting size?
> It's M16x1,5
> Is it a D5 or a DDC? Is it a pump/res combo or a simple top?


It's a DDC 3.2 PWM, with a reservoir top.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Not entirely sure what's causing it yet, but I need to shock my pump every time I start my PC (IE; hit it or shake it really roughly) to get it to actually start pumping liquid. Any ideas?
> The loop has only been running for maybe two months now, and all pretty much new parts. And the parts that
> It's a DDC 3.2 PWM, with a reservoir top.


was it like that since day one? or only just recently started doing that?

2 months is practically brand new, it shouldn't be doing that yet.

however it sounds like some sort of blockage, or perhaps lack in power?

either way your best bet is to take out the pump and make sure the propeller thing inside can spin freely without debris inside.

did you wash, rinse and flush all your radiators before running your loop?

maybe some flakes from some other parts came off and now is obstructing the pump.

It could be power, try setting the fan speed in BIOS at 100% so when you power on the PC, it will give full power to the pump.


----------



## rolandos582

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> You'll have to shop other brands, i too tried to stick to only a few brands, but in the end I ended up with pieces from pretty much everyone in the water cooling industry.
> 
> Bitspower has the largest selection of fittings, there are plenty of alternative names, it just depends if you like their product or not.
> EK has 90 degree rotary, that should fit as well in that space.
> 
> for the Bitspower I was thinking of this one, it'll fit perfectly in that spot, and you can still use your primo chill hard tube fittings


Thanks for the fast responds dude! Im gonna try a few more times to get a smooth 90 degree turn with primochill en see if it fits otherwise ima use a BP fitting. I see them everywhere and their not too big.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> was it like that since day one? or only just recently started doing that?
> 
> 2 months is practically brand new, it shouldn't be doing that yet.
> 
> however it sounds like some sort of blockage, or perhaps lack in power?
> 
> either way your best bet is to take out the pump and make sure the propeller thing inside can spin freely without debris inside.
> 
> did you wash, rinse and flush all your radiators before running your loop?
> 
> maybe some flakes from some other parts came off and now is obstructing the pump.
> 
> It could be power, try setting the fan speed in BIOS at 100% so when you power on the PC, it will give full power to the pump.


It was used in another build, but I had to disassemble it for the parts I added with the new build. During that time I cleaned it. It's been running fine for about two months, and this started happening about a week ago.


----------



## fitzy-775

So how long do you guys leak test before powering on your systems?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> So how long do you guys leak test before powering on your systems?


I would suggest Air leak testing.









Courtesy of our fearless leader Bneg...

*How to correctly test your loop?... 101*









Before air testing, I didn't leaktest my first loop. No really. I think I ran 15min. But that was more to satisfy that everything was operating smoothly and to see what my temps would be. But since? I air test.









~Ceadder


----------



## fitzy-775

Ok thanks. I've been leak testing for 3 hours now, do you think that is long enough?


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> Ok thanks. I've been leak testing for 3 hours now, do you think that is long enough?


It's a matter of what you're comfortable with. In the beginning I leak tested for 24 hours. Now 10 minutes, I fill it up, check for leaks, wait till the pump stops making noise because of the bubbles from filling, and power up.

Maybe I'm just lucky, idk.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> It's a matter of what you're comfortable with. In the beginning I leak tested for 24 hours. Now 10 minutes, I fill it up, check for leaks, wait till the pump stops making noise because of the bubbles from filling, and power up.
> 
> Maybe I'm just lucky, idk.


If you know what you're doing you don't need to leak test and have it run for 24hrs, to me thats overkill but thats just me. I ran mine until it stopped bleeding air then ran it, its never leaked and that was my first time building a water cooling build.

All a 24hr leak test will tell you is if you have a very VERY minuscule leak. Air testing is a great way to check for that provided you don't give it too much air pressure, most rads and other things aren't rated for much PSI.

If you installed everything correctly, and tested all your parts (i like to run the pump, cpu block, rads first to see if its all good on a bench, then check the gpu block) you should have zero issues. The most likely culprit of leaks is usally angled adapters.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> If you know what you're doing you don't need to leak test and have it run for 24hrs, to me thats overkill but thats just me. I ran mine until it stopped bleeding air then ran it, its never leaked and that was my first time building a water cooling build.
> 
> All a 24hr leak test will tell you is if you have a very VERY minuscule leak. Air testing is a great way to check for that provided you don't give it too much air pressure, most rads and other things aren't rated for much PSI.
> 
> If you installed everything correctly, and tested all your parts (i like to run the pump, cpu block, rads first to see if its all good on a bench, then check the gpu block) you should have zero issues. The most likely culprit of leaks is usally angled adapters.


I think you didn't understood what I wrote but ok.

I leaktested for a long time the first time because I didn't know what the F I was doing.

Now I just fill up, and boot. Then again I change setup almost daily, less time leaktesting more time benching!







It's just a matter of what *you* feel comfortable with. If he wants to leak test for 3 weeks. So be it


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> I think you didn't understood what I wrote but ok.
> 
> I leaktested for a long time the first time because I didn't know what the F I was doing.
> 
> Now I just fill up, and boot. Then again I change setup almost daily, less time leaktesting more time benching!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's just a matter of what *you* feel comfortable with. If he wants to leak test for 3 weeks. So be it


Yea i know, i may have quoted the wrong person there haha. But yea its exactly what you said, its whatever someone is comfortable with. I used to fix/build brake lines for cars/trucks, the same with coolant systems so i got very used to building with tubing and coolant/water. For me my first time it was super easy, only time i had a leak was when i changed my setup and had the tubing push my EK 45°C adapter too much and it ended up cocking the adapter a bit too much and water seeped right past the orings.


----------



## Willius

No worries!


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> @akira749
> I have an EK Supremacy MX that developed a crack along the side of the G1/4 threaded hole right along one of the "support walls" on the acrylic portion of the block, under neath the black top plate and now leaks like crazy and can't be used. Is it possible to get just the replacement acrylic portion since the copper base, brackets, and black metal top plate are all still perfectly functional?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes we'll be able to get you just the replacement part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Open a ticket on our website here : https://www.ekwb.com/customer-care/
Click to expand...

@akira749

Managed to get Igor and he's setting me up with a replacement top, great customer service from EK as usual.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> @akira749 are there any plans to make the EK-CoolStream XE radiators in the 280, 420 and 560 sizes?
> 
> I'm planning on another build using 280s and 560s, but I need the multiport option.


No we don't have any new plans for the 140mm rads.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> Managed to get Igor and he's setting me up with a replacement top, great customer service from EK as usual.


Awesome!


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> If you know what you're doing you don't need to leak test and have it run for 24hrs, to me thats overkill but thats just me. I ran mine until it stopped bleeding air then ran it, its never leaked and that was my first time building a water cooling build.
> 
> All a 24hr leak test will tell you is if you have a very VERY minuscule leak. Air testing is a great way to check for that provided you don't give it too much air pressure, most rads and other things aren't rated for much PSI.
> 
> If you installed everything correctly, and tested all your parts (i like to run the pump, cpu block, rads first to see if its all good on a bench, then check the gpu block) you should have zero issues. The most likely culprit of leaks is usally angled adapters.


On a related note, do you guys / gals finger tight the fittings, or do you use some sort of tool like the Allen key?

I find it is good enough to use finger tight pressure on the fittings / O-rings tested with air and it was fine,
yet all the EK parts comes with the Allen Key for extra strength,
so I was pondering if it was necessary to tight it tighter than finger pressure.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> On a related note, do you guys / gals finger tight the fittings, or do you use some sort of tool like the Allen key?
> 
> I find it is good enough to use finger tight pressure on the fittings / O-rings tested with air and it was fine,
> yet all the EK parts comes with the Allen Key for extra strength,
> so I was pondering if it was necessary to tight it tighter than finger pressure.


Ill finger tighten it then use the allen key for a lil nudge and be good to go, into the rad you can go as tight as you want within reason haha. On acrylic and steel/aluminum i wont crank it down.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> On a related note, do you guys / gals finger tight the fittings, or do you use some sort of tool like the Allen key?
> 
> I find it is good enough to use finger tight pressure on the fittings / O-rings tested with air and it was fine,
> yet all the EK parts comes with the Allen Key for extra strength,
> so I was pondering if it was necessary to tight it tighter than finger pressure.


I only finder tight.

I use the allen key just to remove the fitting when it's necessary


----------



## Malik




----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> .


Are you shooting EK pictures for a commercial?
















Nice black and white picture with the accent on the copper


----------



## sd_dracula

Guys, anyone here have a Predator 280 AIO kit?
Does it perform well? Looking to cool a 5820k + GTX 1080.


----------



## faxfan2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sd_dracula*
> 
> Guys, anyone here have a Predator 280 AIO kit?
> Does it perform well? Looking to cool a 5820k + GTX 1080.


I have a 360, a 5930k and two 1080GTX's and it performs really well. Depending the fan curve I choose the GTX's are 38c "idle and 45 - 48c under load the CPU "idle" (around 20% usage) is around 58c, under 100% load 69c (not sure why it's quite so high at idle). There is a specific thread for the predator somewhere as well.


----------



## Alastair

I just received my EK PE360 and CE280. I'm very happy with the PE360. But my CE280 is am less impressed with. I don't like how unevenly spaced the fins are. I think EK needs to work on that with their rads. But otherwise looking forward to sticking them in my rig and seeing how my temps improve compared to the XSPC EX rads I have.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Are you shooting EK pictures for a commercial?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice black and white picture with the accent on the copper


Malik is a photo god!!!


----------



## Sazexa

Will this SLI bridge work with EK blocks?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CX4US4S/ref=pd_sim_147_35?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YQTBB4XJKD6NFCAV43P0


----------



## emsj86

Having trouble finding the ek FtW 1080 water block for sale. Any reason why ppc says it's only for pre order. I thought it was out allready


----------



## Biggu

Microcenter near me apparently has 4 in stock. Im actually going tomorrow to get one for my self. The issue is they are not labeled correctly but the UPC matches what is on the EK website.

Here is the SKU 151092 . According to the site they have 4 in stock at Philadelphia/ St. Davis store.


----------



## emsj86

ill have to check that out thank you. just got off a 30 hour shift so i got tomorrow off


----------



## Biggu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> ill have to check that out thank you. just got off a 30 hour shift so i got tomorrow off


Just a FYI, I went to my microcenter today and they didnt have it on the shelf and they initially were not able to find it. I ended up doing the order online and pickup in store and some one else found them in the back and they got it for me. They did confirm they have the 3 other ones at my store so if you need I can get it for you and ship it but then again you could order it online and they would ship it too.


----------



## Alastair

I am busy redoing my loop to install my new rads and pump. And while reading through the manual of my EK Fury X block and backplate (I needed to find the thickness of pads needed) I saw it recommended applying thermal compound between the thermal pad and the heat source. Does this improve performance?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Will this SLI bridge work with EK blocks?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CX4US4S/ref=pd_sim_147_35?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YQTBB4XJKD6NFCAV43P0


Yes it should work

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I am busy redoing my loop to install my new rads and pump. And while reading through the manual of my EK Fury X block and backplate (I needed to find the thickness of pads needed) I saw it recommended applying thermal compound between the thermal pad and the heat source. Does this improve performance?


Very little. It's usually to ease the installation. It's not mandatory


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> Just a FYI, I went to my microcenter today and they didnt have it on the shelf and they initially were not able to find it. I ended up doing the order online and pickup in store and some one else found them in the back and they got it for me. They did confirm they have the 3 other ones at my store so if you need I can get it for you and ship it but then again you could order it online and they would ship it too.


Thank you. Checked yesterday morning and ppc had it so picked up back plate, water block, and a few other things with it. Waiting to order a mountain mods pci e bracket to mod my case labs sm8 for a u right gpu mod


----------



## ITAngel

Is it possible to run distilled water temporary until I get new ekoolant? If so how long you guys recommend to run direct distilled water?


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Is it possible to run distilled water temporary until I get new ekoolant? If so how long you guys recommend to run direct distilled water?


You are safe to use direct distilled water until your coolant arrives. I wouldn't go pass 2 months on straight distilled without any addictive.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> You are safe to use direct distilled water until your coolant arrives. I wouldn't go pass 2 months on straight distilled without any addictive.


Okay sweet! By the way if the water gets replaced often is it bad to continue running it like that? I plan to get the EKoolant just curious.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Okay sweet! By the way if the water gets replaced often is it bad to continue running it like that? I plan to get the EKoolant just curious.


You can keep replacing it often as you wish, but it's a lot of hassle and time wasting there. The additive for distilled water are solely to prevent any algae growth and minimize the corrosion in the loop to prolong the loop without flushing it often.









You will be fine. Just keep an eye on your loop for any weirdness. I had known few members here had been using straight distilled water without anything added in for long time and they didn't have any problem. (Bear in mind, they had flush their loop more often than usual).


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> You can keep replacing it often as you wish, but it's a lot of hassle and time wasting there. The additive for distilled water are solely to prevent any algae growth and minimize the corrosion in the loop to prolong the loop without flushing it often.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will be fine. Just keep an eye on your loop for any weirdness. I had known few members here had been using straight distilled water without anything added in for long time and they didn't have any problem. (Bear in mind, they had flush their loop more often than usual).


oh hahaha, yea reason I asked is because I found myself doing the same thing with the EK fluid because I keep moving parts, replace parts, changing the way the loop looks etc...







would be a waste to continue doing that with the EK fluid instead of just using distilled and flushing the lines form time to time.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> oh hahaha, yea reason I asked is because I found myself doing the same thing with the EK fluid because I keep moving parts, replace parts, changing the way the loop looks etc...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would be a waste to continue doing that with the EK fluid instead of just using distilled and flushing the lines form time to time.


No reason to ever use a manufacturer fluid use distilled water and a few drops of biocide!!!


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> No reason to ever use a manufacturer fluid use distilled water and a few drops of biocide!!!


I see cool what biocide would you recommend? I didn't use biocide before because EK site said not to use silver and I forgot what else on the EK Supremacy EVO CPU cooler.

I found this https://www.amazon.com/BE-Tech-Concentrated-Biocide-Cooling/dp/B01EM7Z2CW/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1479791227&sr=8-11&keywords=biocide

My setup has Nickel and Copper on the rads everything else is Nickel. I did also find PT and PHN Nuke on amazon so I can order any of those too.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> I see cool what biocide would you recommend? I didn't use biocide before because EK site said not to use silver and I forgot what else on the EK Supremacy EVO CPU cooler.
> 
> I found this https://www.amazon.com/BE-Tech-Concentrated-Biocide-Cooling/dp/B01EM7Z2CW/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1479791227&sr=8-11&keywords=biocide
> 
> My setup has Nickel and Copper on the rads everything else is Nickel.


Ppc has a mayhems biocide. What you linked is what i use!!!


----------



## superstition222

I think the advice to just use distilled, plus or minus copper sulphate as a biocide, is unwise. All the research I've done into industry practices rather than amateur PC watercooling, says it's mandatory to use inhibitors and those are nearly always triazoles with copper. Sulfates are also very questionable. Something more like chloroamine is probably a better choice.

If corrosion isn't present sooner than later then the surfaces were likely pretreated by the manufacturer - with a dip in tolyltriazole solution or similar.

If you're going to be cheap then at least order some benzotriazole and mix it into the distilled water (.1M), plus a compatible biocide and some borax from WalMart to raise the pH to something like 8.5. That's a cheap coolant that's going to be safer than just using water and hoping that corrosion won't happen.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> oh hahaha, yea reason I asked is because I found myself doing the same thing with the EK fluid because I keep moving parts, replace parts, changing the way the loop looks etc...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would be a waste to continue doing that with the EK fluid instead of just using distilled and flushing the lines form time to time.


Ha ha ha, yeah I hear ya.

On the biocide topic: This is what I uses (Dazmode Protector, whole bottle of it into 2 L distilled water)

https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_protector/

That's what I uses all the time since I'm Canadian


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Dazmode Protector


ethylene glycol? Don't see the point unless you're going for a chilled loop and don't want it to freeze.

http://cdn.overclock.net/1/17/17164ae8_db_file_img_9998_800xauto.jpeg

It's a biocide but not only does it have to be in at least a 20% concentration to keep bacteria at bay, it's toxic.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> I think the advice to just use distilled, plus or minus copper sulphate as a biocide, is unwise. All the research I've done into industry practices rather than amateur PC watercooling, says it's mandatory to use inhibitors and those are nearly always triazoles with copper. Sulfates are also very questionable. Something more like chloroamine is probably a better choice.
> 
> If corrosion isn't present sooner than later then the surfaces were likely pretreated by the manufacturer - with a dip in tolyltriazole solution or similar.
> 
> If you're going to be cheap then at least order some benzotriazole and mix it into the distilled water (.1M), plus a compatible biocide and some borax from WalMart to raise the pH to something like 8.5. That's a cheap coolant that's going to be safer than just using water and hoping that corrosion won't happen.


Do as you want to but you are making this a lot more complicated than necessary!! All i have ever used is di and biocide and this is in over 10 years of water cooling!!

A lot of difference between what we do in a pc and industry practices and no reason to compare!!! I work in a industry that uses water to cool a lot of items so my knowledge is from experience not just reading


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Is it possible to run distilled water temporary until I get new ekoolant? If so how long you guys recommend to run direct distilled water?


If you're going to run distilled temporarily head to WalMart and get some Mule Team Borax. Add it to the water until the pH is at 8.5. Having a higher pH slows growth and inhibits the most damaging type of corrosion (pitting). If the pH gets too high, though, it can lead to scale formation.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Ha ha ha, yeah I hear ya.
> 
> On the biocide topic: This is what I uses (Dazmode Protector, whole bottle of it into 2 L distilled water)
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_protector/
> 
> That's what I uses all the time since I'm Canadian


All i have ever used is di water and copper sulfate biocides. This is with over 10 years of putting pc's under water with no problems!!!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> If you're going to run distilled temporarily head to WalMart and get some Mule Team Borax. Add it to the water until the pH is at 8.5. Having a higher pH slows growth and inhibits the most damaging type of corrosion (pitting). If the pH gets too high, though, it can lead to scale formation.


Actually better to run just di water than add something to water to raise the ph levels


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Do as you want to but you are making this a lot more complicated than necessary!!


No, it's the copper that's making it complicated. Copper corrodes, forming various oxides that inhibit heat transfer. If people don't mind inhibiting the thermal transfer of their copper surfaces by a lot then they can skip something rather simple like adding some triazole and a borate buffer.

Bacterial growth inhibition is also important because it leads to pitting.

I suppose that if people want simple watercooling with just distilled water they should lobby for silver as the metal of choice rather than copper. Its heat transfer isn't as good but it does have built-in biocidal properties.









It also forms oxides but maybe there is a way of making a stainless silver alloy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> All i have ever used is di and biocide and this is in over 10 years of water cooling!!
> 
> A lot of difference between what we do in a pc and industry practices and no reason to compare!!! I work in a industry that uses water to cool a lot of items so my knowledge is from experience not just reading


Part of the reading I did was from a person who used distilled for years and then noticed that his blocks started leaking because of surprise corrosion.


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Actually better to run just di water than add something to water to raise the ph levels


citation needed

The professional articles I've read all say the same thing: Basic pH inhibits bacterial growth and thus pitting. It also enhances the effectiveness of triazole galvanic corrosion inhibitors. But, too basic and scale formation becomes an issue and it's especially not good for aluminum.

Every water system formulation I've found that's related to what we're doing buffers for pH and increases it over 7.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would think the pH being around 8.5 is high enough overall


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> citation needed
> 
> The professional articles I've read all say the same thing: Basic pH inhibits bacterial growth and thus pitting. It also enhances the effectiveness of triazole galvanic corrosion inhibitors. But, too basic and scale formation becomes an issue and it's especially not good for aluminum.
> 
> Every water system formulation I've found that's related to what we're doing buffers for pH and increases it over 7.


Again reading and not practical experience!!! Closed loop system with distilled water will actually run fine and cause no damage for a long time!!!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> No, it's the copper that's making it complicated. Copper corrodes, forming various oxides that inhibit heat transfer. If people don't mind inhibiting the thermal transfer of their copper surfaces by a lot then they can skip something rather simple like adding some triazole and a borate buffer.
> 
> Bacterial growth inhibition is also important because it leads to pitting.
> 
> I suppose that if people want simple watercooling with just distilled water they should lobby for silver as the metal of choice rather than copper. Its heat transfer isn't as good but it does have built-in biocidal properties.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also forms oxides but maybe there is a way of making a stainless silver alloy.
> Part of the reading I did was from a person who used distilled for years and then noticed that his blocks started leaking because of surprise corrosion.


Actually silver transfers heat better


----------



## DarthBaggins

As does Gold, but that can get expensive fast lol


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> As does Gold, but that can get expensive fast lol


This is correct, i bet most people keep their loop together for less than a year before they change something and have to redo the loop or replace water!!! So big deal about nothing important


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Actually silver transfers heat better


Good luck with that with plain distilled since it's going to get a layer of oxide.

Triazole inhibitors, just in case anyone is interested, also inhibit the effectiveness of silver ions as a biocide because they bond with them and form a precipitate. Fortunately they don't precipitate with copper.

So, if one tries to rely on a silver coil in a solution that uses a triazole inhibitor one may very well end up with biological growth (or they'll be in a typical greater-or-equal-to 20% glycol solution that prevents growth with the glycol, rendering the silver coil decorative more than anything). Also, because of the precipitation between silver and triazoles, the silver reduces the triazole concentration and therefore can lead to galvanic corrosion.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Good luck with that with plain distilled since it's going to get a layer of oxide.
> 
> Triazole inhibitors, just in case anyone is interested, also inhibit the effectiveness of silver ions as a biocide because they bond with them and form a precipitate. Fortunately they don't precipitate with copper.
> 
> So, if one tries to rely on a silver coil in a solution that uses a triazole inhibitor one may very well end up with biological growth (or they'll be in a typical greater-or-equal-to 20% glycol solution that prevents growth with the glycol, rendering the silver coil decorative more than anything).


No one has mentioned silver but you, i said di water and a simple biocide copper sulfate works fine!

My htpc has been running di water only for 2 years and just drained it and replaced water also checked blocks and they were in perfect shape so keep reading and over complicating things!!!


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> No one has mentioned silver but you


Silver is relevant to the discussion.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> i said di water and a simple biocide copper sulfate works fine!


And I said there is no industry support for that claim. If all one needed to prevent copper corrosion in water systems is copper sulfate then the literature would show that. It doesn't. That ranges from conservators trying to preserve copper and bronze artifacts to automotive formulations.

Guess what? They all use triazoles and have been since the 60s. But I guess PC watercooling amateurs know more about water systems than decades of people with doctorates - including the people at IBM who are using triazole in their PC watercooling.

Various other things have their place in certain niches like nitrates, silicates, molybdate, chromate (no longer used generally because of toxicity), phosphates, glycols, etc. But, the main commonality among all water system formulations involving copper is the inclusion of a triazole, generally tolyltriazole or benzotriazole - and a basic pH buffering system.

Maybe some might also be interested to know that a conservator's study found that the only thing that stopped corrosion of their copper samples was a combination of benzotriazole (.1M) and AMT (.01M) *in ethanol*. The water-based version had some corrosion. They didn't test tolyltriazole, though.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Do as you want to but you are making this a lot more complicated than necessary!! All i have ever used is di and biocide and this is in over 10 years of water cooling!!
> 
> A lot of difference between what we do in a pc and industry practices and no reason to compare!!! I work in a industry that uses water to cool a lot of items so my knowledge is from experience not just reading


NICE! Thank You!


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Silver is relevant to the discussion.
> And I said there is no industry support for that claim. If all one needed to prevent copper corrosion in water systems is copper sulfate then the literature would show that. It doesn't. That ranges from conservators trying to preserve copper and bronze artifacts to automotive formulations.
> 
> Guess what? They all use triazoles and have been since the 60s. But I guess PC watercooling amateurs know more about water systems than decades of people with doctorates - including the people at IBM who are using triazole in their PC watercooling.


way beyond my head. LOL! =) Sound interesting though. I plan not to mix another metal in the loop since it has already copper from the rads and the rest is nickel.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> As does Gold, but that can get expensive fast lol


Amen! true that my friend. If I plan to put gold on this system, I better plan to find another job to keep my expensive hobby.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Silver is relevant to the discussion.
> And I said there is no industry support for that claim. If all one needed to prevent copper corrosion in water systems is copper sulfate then the literature would show that. It doesn't. That ranges from conservators trying to preserve copper and bronze artifacts to automotive formulations.
> 
> Guess what? They all use triazoles and have been since the 60s. But I guess PC watercooling amateurs know more about water systems than decades of people with doctorates - including the people at IBM who are using triazole in their PC watercooling.
> 
> Various other things have their place in certain niches like nitrates, silicates, molybdate, chromate (no longer used generally because of toxicity), phosphates, glycols, etc. But, the main commonality among all water system formulations involving copper is the inclusion of a triazole, generally tolyltriazole or benzotriazole - and a basic pH buffering system.
> 
> Maybe some might also be interested to know that a conservator's study found that the only thing that stopped corrosion of their copper samples was a combination of benzotriazole (.1M) and AMT (.01M) *in ethanol*. The water-based version had some corrosion. They didn't test tolyltriazole, though.


Sir do what you want, read what you want and believe what you want. I am an engineer with hands on experience in a industry that uses water to cool lots of machinery, salt and fresh water both! So i know a lot about water cooling.

Years of practical experience means a lot to me than all the books and degrees. I never said you was wrong just you are over complicating this!!!!

I do not know why i keep feeding the Trolls!!!!?


----------



## superstition222

Gold has a worse thermal conductivity rating than silver and copper but since it's so unreactive the lack of an oxide layer could make it a better conductor of heat. I haven't looked into this since it's not practical given the cost, unless there is a way to put a very thin layer onto copper to prevent it from oxidizing.

diamond, 1000
silver, 406.0
copper, 385.0
gold , 314
aluminum, 205.0
brass, 109.0
iron, 79.5
steel, 50.2
aluminum oxide (at 20C), 26-35
aluminum oxide (porous), 2.6
water, 0.591
Quote:


> "Metal oxides are generally not very good conductors, in fact, most are dielectrics and hence non-conductors. Some metal oxides are semi-conductors (and also super conductors at low temperature in some cases). Certainly, copper and aluminum are much better conductors than their corresponding oxides at any temperature linemen will encounter.
> 
> Copper, lead, and aluminum oxides formed by corrosion are decidedly poor conductors.


However, he goes on to say this:
Quote:


> Most metals, including copper and aluminum, form thin metal oxide film layers when exposed to air for even a brief time -- this is what makes a new penny turn dull after a few days or weeks. These oxide layers are so thin however that for all practical purposes they do not interfere with the conductivity across such layers.


Perhaps, but I've seen pennies that are in worse shape than just being a bit dull and I've seen my copper block blacken as well. The nice thing about triazole inhibitors is that they form a hydrophobic layer (possibly particularly tolyltriazole which may form a thinner more hydrophobic layer than benzo) that is considerably thinner (especially in basic conditions) and which prevents pitting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Sir do what you want, read what you want and believe what you want. I am an engineer with hands on experience in a industry that uses water to cool lots of machinery, salt and fresh water both! So i know a lot about water cooling.
> 
> Years of practical experience means a lot to me than all the books and degrees. I never said you was wrong just you are over complicating this!!!!
> 
> I do not know why i keep feeding the Trolls!!!!?


If you're going to accuse me of trolling then cite something that shows copper sulfate and distilled water are all a person needs.









I would also lay off the exclamation points before tossing around that particular insult.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Gold has a worse thermal conductivity rating than silver and copper but since it's so unreactive the lack of an oxide layer could make it a better conductor of heat. I haven't looked into this since it's not practical given the cost, unless there is a way to put a very thin layer onto copper to prevent it from oxidizing.
> 
> diamond, 1000
> silver, 406.0
> copper, 385.0
> gold , 314
> aluminum, 205.0
> brass, 109.0
> iron, 79.5
> steel, 50.2
> aluminum oxide (at 20C), 26-35
> aluminum oxide (porous), 2.6
> water, 0.591
> However, he goes on to say this:
> Perhaps, but I've seen pennies that are in worse shape than just being a bit dull and I've seen my copper block blacken as well. The nice thing about triazole inhibitors is that they form a hydrophobic layer (possibly particularly tolyltriazole which may form a thinner more hydrophobic layer than benzo) that is considerably thinner (especially in basic conditions) and which prevents pitting.
> If you're going to accuse me of trolling then cite something that shows copper sulfate and distilled water are all a person needs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would also lay off the exclamation points before tossing around that particular insult.


I did cite something that says this and it is my 17 plus years of practical experience working with water cooling both at home and professionally!!! Also if you actually could get the experienced people on here to answer you would find more people do di with a simple biocide than anything else. like i said before sir I never said you was wrong but that you are over complicating this!!! While you did say i wrong... and lots of words that mean nothing to back it up!!


----------



## superstition222

Maybe you should lecture EK about your experience since this is the EK thread and they require use of their coolant as far as I know, not copper sulfate and distilled.

I'll place a bet on their coolants having one or more triazole inhibitors in them, too. Because I have _nothing_ to back that up. Just words.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Maybe you should lecture EK about your experience since this is the EK thread and they require use of their coolant as far as I know, not copper sulfate and distilled.
> 
> I'll place a bet on their coolants having one or more triazole inhibitors in them, too. Because I have _nothing_ to back that up. Just words.


Unlike you I am not going to lecture anyone!! As a manufacturer i am going to require the use of my products to increase sales and protect myself!!

Again I never stated you were wrong or I disagreed with you just you were over complicating something that is so simple. Most people never leave their loops together for much longer than 6 months before changing something. So keep it simple

Enough is enough you should be good and full as i have feed you enough!


----------



## ITAngel

Sorry I didn't mean to start something in this thread. It was a simple question to know how long I can run it like that since is the holidays and who know how soon I can get stuff shipped in. Aside from that I am sure people use their own formula to water cooled for ages with no issues. I am in no way an expert which is why I asked. Only have a year doing this and yet to know all the ins and outs of this hobby. Thanks you all.


----------



## fitzy-775

So i have this small leak that seems to only happen when i play games at the top of my res and i don't know how to stop it. I tighten it up but still seems to leak. Has this happened to anyone else?


----------



## Alastair

Coolstream CE280 and some custom painted corsair ML140's

Forgive its poor quality. It's my phone camera.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> So i have this small leak that seems to only happen when i play games at the top of my res and i don't know how to stop it. I tighten it up but still seems to leak. Has this happened to anyone else?


Do you have the EK extender in it?? If not as the temps go up the pressure will also causing this maybe???


----------



## fitzy-775

Yea I've got an extender in it. My res is pretty full its about 2-3mm from the top. Might this be a issue to?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> Yea I've got an extender in it. My res is pretty full its about 2-3mm from the top. Might this be a issue to?


That should not matter.. not sure maybe replace all the orings and see if it stops???


----------



## Kronos8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> So i have this small leak that seems to only happen when i play games at the top of my res and i don't know how to stop it. I tighten it up but still seems to leak. Has this happened to anyone else?


Maybe this will help
http://www.overclock.net/t/1615445/unusual-fitting-leak-what-to-do#post_25633836


----------



## axipher

@akira749 Is there any plans to offer the sexy QDC's from the Predator kits? I was hoping to get some of the nice black ZMT tube and some QDC's to re-do my loop but Igor mentioned that QDC's are only available through the Predator kits and pre-filled GPU blocks.


----------



## ITAngel

I don't understand why EK don't make the Zotac GTX 1070 AMP Extreme Cooling block. I would had purchased one by now.









@akira749 Any info on that? would be totally cool if we can get one.


----------



## Radmanhs

Is it just me, or are the in/outlets for the maximus 8 gene monoblock and 1080 strix blocks very slightly off. I mean maybe 2-3mm off at most.

Note: I'm talking about the inlet of the monoblock and the left inlet/outlet of the gpu block


----------



## DirtyBear

How to join ???


----------



## emsj86

Just post a picture of you re rig with ek parts


----------



## DirtyBear




----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyBear*


Nice setup, what GPUs are you running? That looks pretty neat.


----------



## DirtyBear

2X Fury X ^^;


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> 2X Fury X ^^;


Damn nice, I like those cards they are pretty nice.







never seen one like that with those blocks.


----------



## DirtyBear

They works pretty good too , FULL LOADING BOUTH AROUND 45-46 Celsius


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyBear*
> 
> They works pretty good too , FULL LOADING BOUTH AROUND 45-46 Celsius


that is pretty impressive, I though they would run much hotter.







How well they do with games if you game that is?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Actually better to run just di water than add something to water to raise the ph levels
> 
> 
> 
> citation needed
> 
> The professional articles I've read all say the same thing: Basic pH inhibits bacterial growth and thus pitting. It also enhances the effectiveness of triazole galvanic corrosion inhibitors. But, too basic and scale formation becomes an issue and it's especially not good for aluminum.
> 
> Every water system formulation I've found that's related to what we're doing buffers for pH and increases it over 7.
Click to expand...

The galvanic corrosion chart going round is based on saltwater. Unless dude somehow introduced sodium chloride into his loop, it's highly doubtful that silver is the cause of his corrosion.

Besides, you haven't mentioned which blocks he is using. Haven't mentioned which fittings. And haven't mentioned which radiator either. Any one of those components could be the cause.

Also you're taking on faith that he drained and flushed his loop consistently and flushed his parts thoroughly prior to running his system.

Sorry but none of what you're saying is credible without this information.

~Ceadder


----------



## DirtyBear

BF1 and Witcher 3


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The galvanic corrosion chart going round is based on saltwater. Unless dude somehow introduced sodium chloride into his loop, it's highly doubtful that silver is the cause of his corrosion.
> 
> Besides, you haven't mentioned which blocks he is using. Haven't mentioned which fittings. And haven't mentioned which radiator either. Any one of those components could be the cause.
> 
> Also you're taking on faith that he drained and flushed his loop consistently and flushed his parts thoroughly prior to running his system.
> 
> Sorry but none of what you're saying is credible without this information.
> 
> ~Ceadder


if this is all because of me here is my part list for you guys.

13x EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm (*Nickel*)
2x EK-AF Extender Rotary M-M G1/4 (*Nickel*)
1x EK-AF Extender 20mm M-F G1/4 (*Nickel*)
1x EK-CSQ Plug G1/4 (for EK badge) (*Nickel*)
4x EK-AF Angled 2x45 degree Rotary (*Nickel*)
1x EK-AF T-Splitter 3F G1/4 (*Nickel*)
2x Magicool 240mm Slim G2 Radiator (*Copper fins, brass chambers*)
1x EK-Res X3 150
1x EK Supremacy EVO (*Nickel Acetal*)
1x EK XTOP Revo D5 PWM (include Pump) Black Acetal Pump Combo
1x EK D5 PWM Pump
1x EK Supremacy EVO Block Tops (White & Clear)
1x EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm Fan) Vertical
1x EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 Pump Top/Reservoir (Acetal)

As you can see the only thing here that is copper are the two rads.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> So i have this small leak that seems to only happen when i play games at the top of my res and i don't know how to stop it. I tighten it up but still seems to leak. Has this happened to anyone else?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would try to make a bit more free space in the top of your reservoir by removing a small amount of liquid.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> @akira749
> Is there any plans to offer the sexy QDC's from the Predator kits? I was hoping to get some of the nice black ZMT tube and some QDC's to re-do my loop but Igor mentioned that QDC's are only available through the Predator kits and pre-filled GPU blocks.


Igor told you right. We don't offer the QDC seperately. They can be found online from specialized vendors.

Model numbers are : NS4D17006 (female) and NS4D22006 (male)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> I don't understand why EK don't make the Zotac GTX 1070 AMP Extreme Cooling block. I would had purchased one by now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @akira749 Any info on that? would be totally cool if we can get one.


We never made any non-reference block for Zotac. We try to cover to more major brands to cover the most potential customers.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I would try to make a bit more free space in the top of your reservoir by removing a small amount of liquid.
> Igor told you right. We don't offer the QDC seperately. They can be found online from specialized vendors.
> 
> Model numbers are : NS4D17006 (female) and NS4D22006 (male)
> We never made any non-reference block for Zotac. We try to cover to more major brands to cover the most potential customers.


Oh that is to bad being that the Zotac cards are selling pretty well have the less issues like EVGA and other brands and perform really well. Anyways thanks


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Maybe you should lecture EK about your experience since this is the EK thread and they require use of their coolant as far as I know, not copper sulfate and distilled.
> 
> I'll place a bet on their coolants having one or more triazole inhibitors in them, too. Because I have _nothing_ to back that up. Just words.


EK does not require the use of their coolants.

Personally, I'm a fan of 50/50 premix diluted a little. It doesn't work as well as straight DI water, but it you never have to worry about corrosion, growth, etc and it's readily available pretty much everywhere.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The galvanic corrosion chart going round is based on saltwater. Unless dude somehow introduced sodium chloride into his loop, it's highly doubtful that silver is the cause of his corrosion.
> 
> Besides, you haven't mentioned which blocks he is using. Haven't mentioned which fittings. And haven't mentioned which radiator either. Any one of those components could be the cause.
> 
> Also you're taking on faith that he drained and flushed his loop consistently and flushed his parts thoroughly prior to running his system.
> 
> Sorry but none of what you're saying is credible without this information.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if this is all because of me here is my part list for you guys.
> 
> 13x EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm (*Nickel*)
> 2x EK-AF Extender Rotary M-M G1/4 (*Nickel*)
> 1x EK-AF Extender 20mm M-F G1/4 (*Nickel*)
> 1x EK-CSQ Plug G1/4 (for EK badge) (*Nickel*)
> 4x EK-AF Angled 2x45 degree Rotary (*Nickel*)
> 1x EK-AF T-Splitter 3F G1/4 (*Nickel*)
> 2x Magicool 240mm Slim G2 Radiator (*Copper fins, brass chambers*)
> 1x EK-Res X3 150
> 1x EK Supremacy EVO (*Nickel Acetal*)
> 1x EK XTOP Revo D5 PWM (include Pump) Black Acetal Pump Combo
> 1x EK D5 PWM Pump
> 1x EK Supremacy EVO Block Tops (White & Clear)
> 1x EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm Fan) Vertical
> 1x EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 Pump Top/Reservoir (Acetal)
> 
> As you can see the only thing here that is copper are the two rads.
Click to expand...

I don't have experience with the Magicools, but if I had to guess those might be your issue. iirc they are pretty cheap and in my experience cheap products are cheap for a reason. I do know they work well with Copper components and they cool reasonably well (I've read reviews during my research before putting my first loop together) but I went with a Black Ice Stealth 360 over those because of consistent quality reviews by other Enthusiasts and brand recognition. I run mostly Copper blocks, but I do have a Nickel MB block as that's all that was available when I had the fundsame to purchase it. I run distilled only with no biocides and have no corrosion in my MB block. However I also thoroughly hot flushed my Radiator with distilled/vinegar 50/50 first flush 75/25 flush and 100/0 flushed three times to ensure the vinegar was thoroughly flushed from the loop. That was before "Blitz" was introduced by Mayhems. Now I will use their Rad flush instead since it is an acceptable way of flushing in the Enthusiast community.

Also using a coffee filter to filter out the slag helps to ensure no errant particles return through the loop and contaminating the coolant.

But without sodium chloride silver is not the problem it's being made out to be. @BoxGods our resident Monsoon rep has even mentioned that their silver plating on their fittings is innocuous at worst. I've "@"ed him so if he feels compelled he can correct me should I have misspoken. Being sure I haven't you might check in with him should you have any questions regarding Silver and the galvanic chart being promoted as factually sound.

It's my understanding that it's based on Aquatic saltwater tables whereally metals are concerned. Since there is no salt in a distilled loop, it's not a possibility as therest is zero sodium chloride in the distillation process.

~Ceadder


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't have experience with the Magicools, but if I had to guess those might be your issue. iirc they are pretty cheap and in my experience cheap products are cheap for a reason. I do know they work well with Copper components and they cool reasonably well (I've read reviews during my research before putting my first loop together) but I went with a Black Ice Stealth 360 over those because of consistent quality reviews by other Enthusiasts and brand recognition. I run mostly Copper blocks, but I do have a Nickel MB block as that's all that was available when I had the fundsame to purchase it. I run distilled only with no biocides and have no corrosion in my MB block. However I also thoroughly hot flushed my Radiator with distilled/vinegar 50/50 first flush 75/25 flush and 100/0 flushed three times to ensure the vinegar was thoroughly flushed from the loop. That was before "Blitz" was introduced by Mayhems. Now I will use their Rad flush instead since it is an acceptable way of flushing in the Enthusiast community.
> 
> Also using a coffee filter to filter out the slag helps to ensure no errant particles return through the loop and contaminating the coolant.
> 
> But without sodium chloride silver is not the problem it's being made out to be. @BoxGods our resident Monsoon rep has even mentioned that their silver plating on their fittings is innocuous at worst. I've "@"ed him so if he feels compelled he can correct me should I have misspoken. Being sure I haven't you might check in with him should you have any questions regarding Silver and the galvanic chart being promoted as factually sound.
> 
> It's my understanding that it's based on Aquatic saltwater tables whereally metals are concerned. Since there is no salt in a distilled loop, it's not a possibility as therest is zero sodium chloride in the distillation process.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nice, thanks you. Well I was thinking of just using DI water and replacing it every 2 months until I figure out what I want to do. If automotive mix with DI water or something that makes it easy accessible locally than waiting for something to ship to me.


----------



## Sazexa

Waiting for someone to restock the LTT NF-F12's, and then going to order two more. Going to run an EK XE 480 in push/pull. Should be done soon. Waiting for some tubing as well.


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Waiting for someone to restock the LTT NF-F12's, and then going to order two more. Going to run an EK XE 480 in push/pull. Should be done soon. Waiting for some tubing as well.


Pretty sure the terms for the LTT fans where: "when they're gone, they're gone"


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> Pretty sure the terms for the LTT fans where: "when they're gone, they're gone"


They were out of stock on PPCS before, and they came back. So I'm hopeful for more.


----------



## andrej124

*EK BLACK FRIDAY DEALS!*









https://www.ekwb.com/shop/black-friday-deals


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> *EK BLACK FRIDAY DEALS!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/black-friday-deals


Oh man! why didn't you say anything a day earlier

I just picked up a huge order from PPC. with mostly EK stuff. LOL


----------



## WolfenWind

Can someone explain to me how people typically connect pumps and reservoirs? I'm looking for them to be integrated together and was wondering for the EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump) can I easily unscrew the reservoir and replace it with a larger EK one?


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfenWind*
> 
> Can someone explain to me how people typically connect pumps and reservoirs? I'm looking for them to be integrated together and was wondering for the EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump) can I easily unscrew the reservoir and replace it with a larger EK one?


Yes you can.


----------



## emsj86

Damn that ek sale. Could have saved almost 50 dollars off my water block and backplate I just got in today from ppc


----------



## DarthBaggins

Had a customer get the Extreme 360 kit from me here and ordered his Titan X(P) block from EK due to the sale - total with fittings was still less than if the block were not on sale.


----------



## Biggu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Damn that ek sale. Could have saved almost 50 dollars off my water block and backplate I just got in today from ppc


I looked into it too since the WB i got was 139 at microcenter and it was $90 there. After shipping and tax though it was only $20 cheaper.


----------



## Sazexa

Although the XE 480 wasn't on sale on EK's site, I picked one up and some other stuff for 10% off at PPCS.


----------



## blackend

hi

will EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite be good to cool 2 gtx 1070 and cpu with only 1 360 xe rad?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

^^ The pump is fine, but I'd get more than a single 360 for CPU + 2xGPU.


----------



## fitzy-775

So i took the extension fitting out and used on a 90 degree fitting and its leaking even worse now.


----------



## Kronos8

http://www.overclock.net/t/1615445/unusual-fitting-leak-what-to-do/10#post_25651336


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> So i took the extension fitting out and used on a 90 degree fitting and its leaking even worse now.


the issue is the fitting is to large to sit properly, the diameter of the fiiting is to large around 18.8mm

you need this extention with 16.7mm (if i rememeber correctly, generally included with pump top or reservoir)

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-extender-g1-4-nickel

or another brand with smaller diameter then 18.8

or simply use the coresponding front port of the reservoir to make the inlet


----------



## DarthBaggins

^Snef is right on this, EK recommends using their extenders on the ports of their reservoirs


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> ^Snef is right on this, EK recommends using their extenders on the ports of their reservoirs


but it looks like he already tried that, no?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> So i have this small leak that seems to only happen when i play games at the top of my res and i don't know how to stop it. I tighten it up but still seems to leak. Has this happened to anyone else?


----------



## outofmyheadyo

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump

The user manual for this pump/res combo clearly states:

"Port on reservoir's top part is not intended to
be used as inlet port. The aforementioned port
should only be used for connecting this reservoir
with external fill port!"

But that`s the exact thing I want to do since this would make the series loop on my thermaltake p5 so much more cleaner and easier to do, is there a reservoir top I could use to replace the original top with ? So i can use one of the ports on it as inlet ?
Maybe THIS works for that purpose ?
And as I plan to replace the tiny reservoir with THIS do i need some sort of innet tube so the water coming in wont cause waterfall sounds?


----------



## Kronos8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> So i took the extension fitting out and used on a 90 degree fitting and its leaking even worse now.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1615445/unusual-fitting-leak-what-to-do/10#post_25651336
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump
> 
> The user manual for this pump/res combo clearly states:
> 
> "Port on reservoir's top part is not intended to
> be used as inlet port. The aforementioned port
> should only be used for connecting this reservoir
> with external fill port!"
> 
> But that`s the exact thing I want to do since this would make the series loop on my thermaltake p5 so much more cleaner and easier to do, is there a reservoir top I could use to replace the original top with ? So i can use one of the ports on it as inlet ?
> Maybe THIS works for that purpose ?
> And as I plan to replace the tiny reservoir with THIS do i need some sort of innet tube so the water coming in wont cause waterfall sounds?


I have tried this when testing my loop and components out of the case. It works, but in my case there were a lot of bubbles created and yes, waterfall sound was there. I intend to buy a
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-140mm
for solving both issues (I hope...) as I also intend to use top port as inlet in my next loop arrangement.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

But does the top have enough thread to screw in the internal tube from the inside and the compression fitting from the outside ? Because you want both on the same port ?



But it seems to have seperate thread for top and bottom so this just might work


----------



## Kronos8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> But does the top have enough thread to screw in the internal tube from the inside and the compression fitting from the outside ? Because you want both on the same port ?
> 
> 
> 
> But it seems to have seperate thread for top and bottom so this just might work


I don't have personal opinion on that, but I think i've seen it on several photos of other users.
It should work.


----------



## Kronos8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> But does the top have enough thread to screw in the internal tube from the inside and the compression fitting from the outside ? Because you want both on the same port ?
> But it seems to have seperate thread for top and bottom so this just might work


Opsssssss.......
http://www.overclock.net/t/1397188/reservoir-top-as-inlet#post_20172707

http://www.overclock.net/t/1397188/reservoir-top-as-inlet#post_20173214


----------



## Alastair

So my EKWB rads are in. And replaced the blue LED lighting for white just for case lighting. Removed all my a lot of the LED fans. (Got over it.) And I think it looks a bit more classy compared to garish like it was.


Spoiler: Before











Spoiler: After!


----------



## outofmyheadyo

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump

Howcome you dont sell the pump top that lets you connect tube resses to it, seperate ?
It makes no sense to buy the pump/res combo, just to use the pump+top then buy a new reservoir and a reservoir top since the small ones look goofy and the single port res top dont work either for what I am trying to do, just a waste of money.









https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-tube-400-354mm

+

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport

is an extra 40€ ontop of the 135 for the pump+ res combo.


----------



## mercinator16

What's the likelihood of a flaking nickel plated block causing a leak?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> What's the likelihood of a flaking nickel plated block causing a leak?


As long as the plate doesn't get locked between the oring and the top or the block it shouldn't. But I honestly would check with EK about replating the EVO. If you're out of warranty on it I would suggest finding a plater or simply removing the plating altogether.

~Ceadder


----------



## mercinator16

This is my only means of cooling my cpu so if it's really a non issue then I don't wanna go through the hassle of rmaing it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Then take it to a plater is my suggestion.









However maybe we should concentrate on the why of the issue as well. Because I doubt that block flaked on its own. What do you use for coolant? What is your average temperature. Do you use a biocide and how much do you introduce to your loop? Silver killcoil?

Without this information it's possible that if fixed, the issue could present itself again in the future.

Also, I believe that PPCs sells the nickel part on its own. I could be wrong but it would be worth checking out to plan out a reasonable course of action. Basically getting a quote from a plater or two and if they do sell that part comparing it to PPCs price with shipping.










~Ceadder


----------



## kradkovich

Hello guys so i plan to watercool only my cpu within my new Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass Case and just wondering whether this water loop ive drawn would be okay or not? See images below, also i have a shopping cart filled with the parts i plan to use, also image attached!


----------



## Ceadderman

Swap the Res and your pump and that would work just fine.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Swap the Res and your pump and that would work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Why the res is feeding the pump and pump is feeding the rad???


----------



## kradkovich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Swap the Res and your pump and that would work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Here is the updated view!



I've looked through the online manuals to verify the correct in and out ports to perfect the diagram in that way also. Seems pretty basic, and would i just add a drain valve at the bottom of the res?


----------



## Chalupa

Anyone using the black nickel fittings? Are they more of a nickel or gunmetal color?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Does anybody use threadlocker on the fitting threads?


----------



## DarthBaggins

O thread locker/Teflon tape is needed which is why the o-ring are on the fitings


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kradkovich*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Swap the Res and your pump and that would work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the updated view!
> 
> 
> 
> I've looked through the online manuals to verify the correct in and out ports to perfect the diagram in that way also. Seems pretty basic, and would i just add a drain valve at the bottom of the res?
Click to expand...

Apologies. I'm on my phone. So long as the Rest feeds the pump, yer good to go.









~Ceadder


----------



## AllGamer

According to the instructions LGA 1151 should use Jet 2

Code:



Code:


Socket - Optimal Insert - Optimal Jet
LGA115x - I1 - J2

So, I'm trying to figure out what is the Default setup out of the box.

From the remaining Jets, I'm guessing it's a J1, because one of the Jets feels very thin, so that's probably J3, and the other Jet feels very stiff, so I'm guessing that's a J2.


EVO block with wet looking areas out of the box


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> According to the instructions LGA 1151 should use Jet 2
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> Socket - Optimal Insert - Optimal Jet
> LGA115x - I1 - J2
> 
> So, I'm trying to figure out what is the Default setup out of the box.
> 
> From the remaining Jets, I'm guessing it's a J1, because one of the Jets feels very thin, so that's probably J3, and the other Jet feels very stiff, so I'm guessing that's a J2.
> 
> 
> EVO block with wet looking areas out of the box


Im not seeing any wet areas but maybe im blind haha. I think what youre seeing is the acrylic pressing on the bracket. Mine has that as well its not a wet area


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfenWind*
> 
> Can someone explain to me how people typically connect pumps and reservoirs? I'm looking for them to be integrated together and was wondering for the EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump) can I easily unscrew the reservoir and replace it with a larger EK one?


Yes you can. We sell longer tube res that you can swap.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackend*
> 
> hi
> 
> will EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite be good to cool 2 gtx 1070 and cpu with only 1 360 xe rad?


The pump will handle it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> According to the instructions LGA 1151 should use Jet 2
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> Socket - Optimal Insert - Optimal Jet
> LGA115x - I1 - J2
> 
> So, I'm trying to figure out what is the Default setup out of the box.
> 
> From the remaining Jets, I'm guessing it's a J1, because one of the Jets feels very thin, so that's probably J3, and the other Jet feels very stiff, so I'm guessing that's a J2.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EVO block with wet looking areas out of the box
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It comes with Jet Plate #1 and Insert #1 out of the box.

I don't see any wet surface. Can you tell me where?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> *It comes with Jet Plate #1 and Insert #1 out of the box.*
> 
> I don't see any wet surface. Can you tell me where?


Thanks for the confirmation
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Im not seeing any wet areas but maybe im blind haha. *I think what youre seeing is the acrylic pressing on the bracket.* Mine has that as well its not a wet area


Yes, I know it's the acrylic pressing onto the bracket, that's why i described it as _"Wet looking"_ marks,
those 2 pictures were more as a Reference for myself for later on when I start leak testing, so I'll know it's not a leak.

I'm sure after I replace the Jet 2, those marks will probably change positions again, I'll need to snap another pic after the change to remind myself which are the normal spots.


----------



## Biggu

Does EK not sell acrylic 10/12mm tubing anymore? All I can find is PETG tube.

Ive got a bunch of EK 12mm fittings and I tried to use e22 12mm tube and apparently the tube its to large to fit in.


----------



## Thoth420

Hey all, I swapped my Mobo about 3 months ago now and have had this odd smell coming from my system ever since. It smells like ozone and a light chemical tinge and is emenating from my exhaust port on my chassis where my 240 top RAD is mounted. I have had bad fans before and they never smelled just made noise and I don't see or hear any rubbing or sounds at all from them. The rad is white so I was wondering if the paint on it is perhaps making this smell when heated up during use. My other concern is the mobo VRMs as they sit below those fans and the exhaust would pull the smell upwards easily. The software I am using doesn't show the temp on those or I am stupid and missing it.

I can get an exact parts list if needed just never encountered this before. Temps on what I can get a reading from are all very low. I am concerned because I sleep in the room this system is in and have been shutting it down when not in use which is not ideal, prefer to be able to leave it on.


----------



## Ceadderman

I would suggest pulling the MB blocks to see if the TIM/pads have been seated properly. It could be that either you have no contact at all or the pads you used are too thin. It amounts to the same thing but I doubt that it's the paint on the Radiator being the issue.









Some boards don't come with PC Probe II like higher end ASUS boards do. Amy on my phone at so I can't see what board you're running. My board came with it and it shows NB and SB Temps pretty accurately for a desktop app. I leave it on constantly so I can Alt+Tab to it when surfing or gaming and if there is an issue I have the alarm on. Which has from time to time scared the bejeezus out of me in late night gaming sessions.


















~Ceadder


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would suggest pulling the MB blocks to see if the TIM/pads have been seated properly. It could be that either you have no contact at all or the pads you used are too thin. It amounts to the same thing but I doubt that it's the paint on the Radiator being the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some boards don't come with PC Probe II like higher end ASUS boards do. Amy on my phone at so I can't see what board you're running. My board came with it and it shows NB and SB Temps pretty accurately for a desktop app. I leave it on constantly so I can Alt+Tab to it when surfing or gaming and if there is an issue I have the alarm on. Which has from time to time scared the bejeezus out of me in late night gaming sessions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


More investigation of both rads has led me to believe it is the paint on them. I am going to try and burn it off for a few weeks.


----------



## MillerLite1314

So I may finally be realizing my dream this coming summer of a full ek custom loop. I feel like the biggest pita will be finding full cover blocks for my strix 980`s.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> So I may finally be realizing my dream this coming summer of a full ek custom loop. I feel like the biggest pita will be finding full cover blocks for my strix 980`s.


I would try to line those up first. Everything else will be available when you're ready.









~Ceadder


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would try to line those up first. Everything else will be available when you're ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


After thinking about it a bit more, I may just sell both 980's and pick up a reference 1080 for now. Then plan to add a second when I do the loop. Then I should be set for the next few years on hardware since I just moved to z170 and a 6700k.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> After thinking about it a bit more, I may just sell both 980's and pick up a reference 1080 for now. Then plan to add a second when I do the loop. Then I should be set for the next few years on hardware since I just moved to z170 and a 6700k.


How do you like the 6700k?

TCO


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> How do you like the 6700k?
> 
> TCO


Coming from an i5-3570k, I love it so far at stock. I'm still trying to figure out how to overclock it on the Sabertooth mark 1. I used asrock for the last 4 years on z77 and asus 990fx before that. It is running a little hot and is leaving me no room for overclocking since I'm hitting into the low 70's on realbench with an h100i v2. I think it's more of user issue than a processor issue, i switched to Gelid GC Extreme from AS5 and am still working out the best way to apply it. So far my physics score in firestrike has doubled and my gameplay in The Division has smoothed out a lot compared to the i5 which is surprising since hyperthreading still isn't being tapped so much in gaming.

Edit: after about another month I'll be ready to give my full thoughts on it


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> After thinking about it a bit more, I may just sell both 980's and pick up a reference 1080 for now. Then plan to add a second when I do the loop. Then I should be set for the next few years on hardware since I just moved to z170 and a 6700k.


Keep the 980s. Honestly the 1080 kinda bummed me out. Literally gained 2 fps from 2 x of 780s. Plus side is I can get another 1080 down the line if needed. May have to go to eBay for he blocks but I'm sure you can find them.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> Does EK not sell acrylic 10/12mm tubing anymore? All I can find is PETG tube.
> 
> Ive got a bunch of EK 12mm fittings and I tried to use e22 12mm tube and apparently the tube its to large to fit in.


We have some in stock : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/solid-tubing/acrylic

E22 Acrylic should have worked though.


----------



## Biggu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We have some in stock : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/solid-tubing/acrylic
> 
> E22 Acrylic should have worked though.


Yea im not quite sure why the E22 didnt work. I need to measure the tube and find out why. Id order the Ek acrylic tube but shipping is almost the same cost as the tube.. I guess its PETG for me this time around.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would suggest pulling the MB blocks to see if the TIM/pads have been seated properly. It could be that either you have no contact at all or the pads you used are too thin. It amounts to the same thing but I doubt that it's the paint on the Radiator being the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some boards don't come with PC Probe II like higher end ASUS boards do. Amy on my phone at so I can't see what board you're running. My board came with it and it shows NB and SB Temps pretty accurately for a desktop app. I leave it on constantly so I can Alt+Tab to it when surfing or gaming and if there is an issue I have the alarm on. Which has from time to time scared the bejeezus out of me in late night gaming sessions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I should mention the only thing water cooled on the mobo is just the CPU and GPU. No monoblock, no RAM block or anything to cool the NB or SB but the cases ambient is very low as well as the room. I highly doubt something on it is overheating enough (if at all) to cause this smell. It isn't flux for sure or new hardware smell def odd. I spoke to the company that made the RADs(not EK) and they said it is possible the solvent trapped under the paint could be causing this. They recommended letting them air out in a high temperature environment...but that would require me to bleed my loop after only two months of use, pull the rads and put them idk where since it is nearly winter here and there is nowhere warmer than the temp they will see running inside my system. I assumed anything like this would burn off after months but it just persists and seems to be getting a bit worse.

I will install something to test VRM, NB and SB temps along with anything else on the mobo that might be heating up and let my rig sit in a bench loop for a few days when I leave town and hopefully I can get a better read on exactly what is going on before I pull this apart. I finally learned how to bleed it and disassemble it so I would prefer avoiding that unless I am sure it is necessary. This stuff is cool but such a pain if something goes wrong....almost about to build another system and treat this as a side project at this point as the downtime is getting ridiculous.


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Keep the 980s. Honestly the 1080 kinda bummed me out. Literally gained 2 fps from 2 x of 780s. Plus side is I can get another 1080 down the line if needed. May have to go to eBay for he blocks but I'm sure you can find them.


I've been scouring eBay. I was pretty floored when my buddy's msi 1060 beat one of my 980`s in firestrike. I didn't get to test extreme since I game at 1440p.


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> Coming from an i5-3570k, I love it so far at stock. I'm still trying to figure out how to overclock it on the Sabertooth mark 1. I used asrock for the last 4 years on z77 and asus 990fx before that. It is running a little hot and is leaving me no room for overclocking since I'm hitting into the low 70's on realbench with an h100i v2. I think it's more of user issue than a processor issue, i switched to Gelid GC Extreme from AS5 and am still working out the best way to apply it.


Probably the bottlenecking polymer TIM Intel uses between the die and the spreader.

AS5, though, apparently has a very poor thermal transfer rating (when it was actually tested by scientists) so it's good you replaced it.


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Probably the bottlenecking polymer TIM Intel uses between the die and the spreader.
> 
> AS5, though, apparently has a very poor thermal transfer rating (when it was actually tested by scientists) so it's good you replaced it.


I'm sorry for hijacking the thread.

I delidded an ivy bridge but saw minimal temp differences and ended up bricking the cpu a few months later, so I'm hesitant to do that with the 6700k. After a few cooler repeats and more familiarity with Asus bios, I'm seeing much better results.

My plan right now is to move to a 780t outfitted with 2x 360 PE's and a dual ddc to start.


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> How do you like the 6700k?
> 
> TCO


After sorting things out a bit I'm in love with the 6700k. I opted for it because I`ll be returning to school to earn a second bachelor's, this time in Computer Engineering, and wanted the multithreaded performance. I also edit all our photos and do modest rendering on the side.


----------



## SperVxo

Hi, Im getting an EK build this holidays for my 4790k and 1080 card. I have tha tempered glass Phantek ATX case and was thinking of a 360 radiator and a 240.

My question is, Is a 360 enough? I was thinking of the PE 360 radiator. or do i need a 240 extra if i want silent cooling?


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SperVxo*
> 
> Hi, Im getting an EK build this holidays for my 4790k and 1080 card. I have tha tempered glass Phantek ATX case and was thinking of a 360 radiator and a 240.
> 
> My question is, Is a 360 enough? I was thinking of the PE 360 radiator. or do i need a 240 extra if i want silent cooling?


360 should be more than enough. BUT the extra 240 would allow you to run sub 1200rpm speeds.


----------



## SperVxo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> 360 should be more than enough. BUT the extra 240 would allow you to run sub 1200rpm speeds.


Should I get a 60mm radiator like the xe360? But I was thinking pe360 top and a 280 front maybe in push and pull. I want it to be silent


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SperVxo*
> 
> Should I get a 60mm radiator like the xe360? But I was thinking pe360 top and a 280 front maybe in push and pull. I want it to be silent


XE360 wont fit up the top without blocking access to the cpu best option is to use PE360 up top and PE240 in the front which will give you plenty of cooling as I have done in the phanteks evolve atx tempered glass case if thats the case you are refering too?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SperVxo*
> 
> Should I get a 60mm radiator like the xe360? But I was thinking pe360 top and a 280 front maybe in push and pull. I want it to be silent


You don't want an XE if you want a "silent"(very quiet) system. Unless you're considering push/pull. The XE is optimized for higher rpm fans or push/pull.

Currently, EK's best radiators for lower fan rpm's are the PE-series.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SperVxo*
> 
> Should I get a 60mm radiator like the xe360? But I was thinking pe360 top and a 280 front maybe in push and pull. I want it to be silent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You don't want an XE if you want a "silent"(very quiet) system. Unless you're considering push/pull. The XE is optimized for higher rpm fans or push/pull.
> 
> Currently, EK's best radiators for lower fan rpm's are the PE-series.
Click to expand...

idk, it looks like P/P (which you mentioned) the XE does a little better at lower rpms;


http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/31/ek-coolstream-xe-360mm-radiator-review/5/

BUT since it seems the XE won't allow ram/cpu clearance, the point is rather moot.


----------



## Thoth420

In attempt to burn off this odd smell exhausting from my chassis I set Firestrike Exteme to do 10,000 loops (over 9000) before bed and when I woke today escaped out, the temps maxed out at 55C for CPU and 43 C for the GPU. Frame Stability was 0% however....when I run the standard 20 loop stress test I get about 99.8%. Is it just that I ran so many loops in a row that the % degraded into dust? Test said failed. Is this because I exited early?
I never put much stock into that value until I saw: FAILED and 0%


----------



## SperVxo

Yeah i probably run the Pe360 top and a 240 front


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Since this is the EK Club I wanted to share with you a mod I did for an upcoming build. Im branching off into exotic materials. You may have remembered my EK Supremacy Carbon Fiber bracket.

This is for a personal build Im using hand-forged stainless Damascus steel (with nickel) for different accent pieces. And you can see Ive replaced the EK badge with a custom engraved Mercury Skull Dime. As much as I love the EK badge Im just a little sick of seeing it all the time. Plus, Im a detail oriented person.

Hard to get the lighting just right with my old iphone 4s camera but when done the build will be professionally photographed and build log will be up on OCN. Believe it or not, the silver in the damascus has a smoothness and shine very close to the finish of the nickel plated block. My lighting just isnt ideal here. The build itself will be using Carbon Fiber, stainless Damascus, Mother of Pearl, and (if I dont keep breaking the parts) abalone. Im just finishing up the damascus SSD case and Im hoping to also have the Dominator light bars machined next week. All of those will be the damascus accents. But I wanted to start with the EK block as I believe its really the centerpiece of any build. Would love to hear your guys thoughts. The opinions of OCN'ers always trumps what anyone else has to say









If builders and modders are interested I may consider doing small runs of these and Carbon Fiber. And also other pieces (ie ssd OEM replacement made from CF or damascus, or even kevlar)

(Note: I actually have two of these brackets and each side is different. Therefore I have four possible looks for this in the end. So this may not be the side that I use)


----------



## VSG

Looks great!


----------



## AllGamer

nice Skull EK


----------



## nzphil

Wow that is really cool! I love the idea of using different accent materials in a build


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzphil*
> 
> Wow that is really cool! I love the idea of using different accent materials in a build


oh! you think it's actually wood?

I thought it was just metal sanded / polished to look like wood

I've not seen dark wood like that before, much less strong enough to be used as the bracket for the water block

a piece of wood that thin, wouldn't have enough strength to hold the water block.


----------



## nzphil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> oh! you think it's actually wood?
> 
> I thought it was just metal sanded / polished to look like wood
> 
> I've not seen dark wood like that before, much less strong enough to be used as the bracket for the water block
> 
> a piece of wood that thin, wouldn't have enough strength to hold the water block.


It's not wood, its how the metal is folded when its forged. Look it up on google.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks great!


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> oh! you think it's actually wood?
> 
> I thought it was just metal sanded / polished to look like wood
> 
> I've not seen dark wood like that before, much less strong enough to be used as the bracket for the water block
> 
> a piece of wood that thin, wouldn't have enough strength to hold the water block.


Right. Not wood. What they do is they take a few metals to create an alloy. Damascus is usually stainless steel and nickel. they make layers, heat it, and press it together. Like @nzphil mentioned it can also be folded in by hand. So the contrast you get comes from acid etching. I sand it down to about 400 grit (this leaves enough roughness for the acid to "bite") and the acid actually eats away one of the metals creating a slight lowered spot (the darker areas). Then, after it gets done etching in acid its neutralized, and then its sanded again. But since the darker areas are lower you are sanding the high spots to bring the silver back out. The other one that I have done has a higher grit sanding finish and the dark area is a little lighter and the lines are a little more defined.


----------



## Malik

project *HEX*


----------



## akira749

We have some new female-female adapters available! I know a bunch of people were looking for this!

New EK-AF Angled 2F Adapters


----------



## AllGamer

Neat, I'll keep those in mind if I need additional 90 degree short bends


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> project *HEX*


Wow this build is super clean:thumb:


----------



## Pacificus

Guys, need help. My head don't work...

The one thing that i see - to buy new smaller RES, 110-150 for example.
How to fit Pump and RES together?


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pacificus*
> 
> Guys, need help. My head don't work...
> 
> The one thing that i see - to buy new smaller RES, 110-150 for example.
> How to fit Pump and RES together?


How about a Pump/Res Combo?


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> How about a Pump/Res Combo?


@Pacificus This, or for a slightly cheaper alternative buy a res end with a port facing down? You could even get a 3 port one and use it as a drain port?


----------



## exyia

Has anyone put LED plugs or the LED tubes for tube reservoirs into an EK res unit? I went with an X-Res 140 because everything else was EK and I decided to just keep it in the family, but I wouldn't mind a bit of lighting in the reservoir now (doesn't have to be as strong as something like the XSPC Photon, but something so it can be seen in a dark case at least)


----------



## AllGamer

@akira749 or anyone that knows.

EK-DDC Anti-Vibration Mounting https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ddc-anti-vibration-mounting



Is that compatible for the EK D5 pumps / mounts?

I'm thinking of picking up a few of these, to minimize the vibration for the EK D5 pumps, and D5 pump+res combos.


----------



## Ceadderman

Not so far as I aware of. Those are specifically for DDC as those shafts are meant to replace the stock screws in the DDC housing to allow those shock mounts to attach at the bottom instead of the sides of the DDC block.









The holes on the D5 tops may not be the correct thread pitch to accept them.









~Ceadder


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> @akira749 or anyone that knows.
> 
> EK-DDC Anti-Vibration Mounting https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ddc-anti-vibration-mounting
> 
> 
> 
> Is that compatible for the EK D5 pumps / mounts?
> 
> I'm thinking of picking up a few of these, to minimize the vibration for the EK D5 pumps, and D5 pump+res combos.


If your D5 has vibration issues id worry that theres a problem with installation or something else haha. Mine is mounted DIRECTLY to the frame of my Core X5, its running at 3800rpm and i hear NOTHING. If i put my hand on the case theres the slightly vibration, other then that i hear NOTHING.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> @akira749 or anyone that knows.
> 
> EK-DDC Anti-Vibration Mounting https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ddc-anti-vibration-mounting
> 
> Is that compatible for the EK D5 pumps / mounts?


Would be a waste of time and money even if they fit. Just drive down to your local hardware store and get some vibration isolating standoffs/mounts with the corresponding nuts/bolts.


----------



## AllGamer

Thanks for the feedback guys.









I guess I'll go without them for now and revisit this if it starts making noises.


----------



## japanesegorilla

Well, I just bought my first EK part, which is kind of surprising given that I've been water cooling for a while now.

Anyway, a friend just sold me his EVGA 980Ti SC+ for $250, and it is such a nice card that I felt compelled to go full cover block for it (my Raystorm GPU block worked well on a 7850, 680, and 970 but this time I'm not going to stick copper heatsinks all over my gpu's VRAM and VRMs). Anyway, I hopped ebay and found someone selling a EK CSQ nickel Titan X full cover block for $25 so I snapped that up right away.

The listing said it is missing some mounting screws so I spent last night and this morning trying to track down the correct M3 screws. I'm hoping to still use my EVGA backplate so hopefully I bought the right lengths to make this work.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Well, I just bought my first EK part, which is kind of surprising given that I've been water cooling for a while now.
> 
> Anyway, a friend just sold me his EVGA 980Ti SC+ for $250, and it is such a nice card that I felt compelled to go full cover block for it (my Raystorm GPU block worked well on a 7850, 680, and 970 but this time I'm not going to stick copper heatsinks all over my gpu's VRAM and VRMs). Anyway, I hopped ebay and found someone selling a EK CSQ nickel Titan X full cover block for $25 so I snapped that up right away.
> 
> The listing said it is missing some mounting screws so I spent last night and this morning trying to track down the correct M3 screws. I'm hoping to still use my EVGA backplate so hopefully I bought the right lengths to make this work.


The length required for the M3 mounting screws are 4mm but for those who will secure the EVGA backplate, I think you'll need some 6mm ones.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> @akira749 or anyone that knows.
> 
> EK-DDC Anti-Vibration Mounting https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ddc-anti-vibration-mounting
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that compatible for the EK D5 pumps / mounts?
> 
> I'm thinking of picking up a few of these, to minimize the vibration for the EK D5 pumps, and D5 pump+res combos.


Like the others said, this part is really not necessary on a D5.

But if we're only talking about threads, the rubber pegs are M4 thread like the mounting holes on the D5 mounting ring.


----------



## smicha

Something to come on EK waterblocks soon


----------



## derickwm

I made a video! This is also the launch of my own brand, please sub/like etc. I'm not above whoring myself out to OCN'ers!









Full Disclosure: Still work for EK, don't you worry


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a video! This is also the launch of my own brand, please sub/like etc. I'm not above whoring myself out to OCN'ers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full Disclosure: Still work for EK, don't you worry


What case is that?

TCO


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a video! This is also the launch of my own brand, please sub/like etc. I'm not above whoring myself out to OCN'ers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full Disclosure: Still work for EK, don't you worry
> 
> 
> 
> What case is that?
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

XForma MBX MKII. Aka Murdermod/Murderbox TJ07


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> XForma MBX MKII. Aka Murdermod/Murderbox *TJ07*


That's what I was looking for. So you are selling them?

TCO


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> XForma MBX MKII. Aka Murdermod/Murderbox *TJ07*
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I was looking for. So you are selling them?
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

http://xforma.com


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> http://xforma.com













TCO

1250$ ??


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 1250$ ??


CaseLabs cases actually feels much more affordable now


----------



## AllGamer

@akira749

So... are the EK guys secretly working with TT to produce their Water cooling stuff?

Because this looks extremely similar to the EK blocks, look

Bridge Dual


Dual Series 3-Slot


If you guys are not working with them, that's like a total rip off.

The same goes with their video card blocks, they are sooooo similar.

Other brands like Bitspower / HeatKiller / XSPC / Koolance / etc they all have their own unique designs but TT... is like blatant copy


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> So... are the EK guys secretly working with TT to produce their Water cooling stuff?
> 
> Because this looks extremely similar to the EK blocks, look
> 
> Bridge Dual
> 
> 
> Dual Series 3-Slot
> 
> 
> If you guys are not working with them, that's like a total rip off.
> 
> The same goes with their video card blocks, they are sooooo similar.
> 
> Other brands like Bitspower / HeatKiller / XSPC / Koolance / etc they all have their own unique designs but TT... is like blatant copy


What of ThermalTake's stuff is not a blatant copy of something else? They are the absolute worst.


----------



## derickwm

We're not working with them sadly


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a video! This is also the launch of my own brand, please sub/like etc. I'm not above whoring myself out to OCN'ers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full Disclosure: Still work for EK, don't you worry


Oh man! That is absolutely gorgeous and is what my dreams are made of!









Nicely done! I'm absolutely loving the PCBs and cable management. Why can't there be more cases like this?

I've been a good boy this year, maybe Santa will bring me a XForma MBX MKII if I ask really nicely.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 1250$ ??


yeah, I don't think I've been that good this year









but really, 1250$ at BASE configuration? Perhaps fully decked out but even that would be hard to swallow


----------



## wizardbro

Brand new loop, visible nickel flaking on the gpu block from the 2nd day onwards. Pics are from the loop running 1 week.
Cleaned rads with 20+ flushes with distilled water. First two flushes were 1/3 vinegar+2/3 water and the rest were with just distilled water.
Didn't open the blocks to do any pre-cleaning on them. All brand new stuff and using mayhems x1 100ml concentrate that was mixed properly with distilled water.
Using ek pe 360 rads, ek evo cpu nickel, ek titan x nickel, ek d5 and bitspower fittings, all brand new stuff.

GPU block with flash:


GPU block w/o flash:

GPU block w/o flash and the areas marked:


Edit: It's not nickel flaking, brown stuff rubbed off with tissue.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Brand new loop, visible nickel flaking on the gpu block from the 2nd day onwards.
> 
> snip
> 
> *EK customer support said it's because of mayhems x1*, but why would it only affect the gpu block?
> I can't have my computer down for weeks RMA'ing this block to the next continent over. Should I switch to something not mayhems x1 like a pastel coolant to get it to stop flaking more and hide it?


I'm sure Mick (Mayhem's) will be pleased to hear that








I would RMA the block and assemble the loop without the GPU and reinstall the air cooler (assuming you have it) until you get the block back. A lot of work but better than going for weeks without it.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> @akira749 or anyone that knows.
> 
> EK-DDC Anti-Vibration Mounting https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ddc-anti-vibration-mounting
> 
> 
> 
> Is that compatible for the EK D5 pumps / mounts?
> 
> I'm thinking of picking up a few of these, to minimize the vibration for the EK D5 pumps, and D5 pump+res combos.


Those will not work, If you recall I did post some that would work in my Build Log. Their made by other companies.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> So... are the EK guys secretly working with TT to produce their Water cooling stuff?
> 
> Because this looks extremely similar to the EK blocks, look
> 
> Bridge Dual
> 
> 
> Dual Series 3-Slot
> 
> 
> If you guys are not working with them, that's like a total rip off.
> 
> The same goes with their video card blocks, they are sooooo similar.
> 
> Other brands like Bitspower / HeatKiller / XSPC / Koolance / etc they all have their own unique designs but TT... is like blatant copy


ThermalTake has been ripping off other companies for years. They have Cases that are direct copies of Case-Labs cases.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Those will not work, If you recall I did post some that would work in my Build Log. Their made by other companies.


yeah I saw those, but they are sold out, that's why I was looking for alternatives.

but according to the guys here, it's not really necessary, so I'll try the D5 on its own first, to see...

if they start to make too much noise, I'll get some of those you used


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> yeah I saw those, but they are sold out, that's why I was looking for alternatives.
> 
> but according to the guys here, it's not really necessary, so I'll try the D5 on its own first, to see...
> 
> if they start to make too much noise, I'll get some of those you used


AlphaCool
WaterCool
Aquacomputer

They all make them. PPCS and ModMyMods have them inStock.

It also depends on what it's mounted to & at what speed the pump is running at.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Brand new loop, visible nickel flaking on the gpu block from the 2nd day onwards. Pics are from the loop running 1 week.
> Cleaned rads with 20+ flushes with distilled water. First two flushes were 1/3 vinegar+2/3 water and the rest were with just distilled water.
> Didn't open the blocks to do any pre-cleaning on them. All brand new stuff and using mayhems x1 100ml concentrate that was mixed properly with distilled water.
> Using ek pe 360 rads, ek evo cpu nickel, ek titan x nickel, ek d5 and bitspower fittings, all brand new stuff.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> GPU block with flash:
> 
> 
> GPU block w/o flash:
> 
> GPU block w/o flash and the areas marked:
> 
> 
> 
> EK customer support said it's because of mayhems x1, but why would it only affect the gpu block?
> I can't have my computer down for weeks RMA'ing this block to the next continent over. Should I switch to something not mayhems x1 like a pastel coolant to get it to stop flaking more and hide it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I'm sure Mick (Mayhem's) will be pleased to hear that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would RMA the block and assemble the loop without the GPU and reinstall the air cooler (assuming you have it) until you get the block back. A lot of work but better than going for weeks without it.


Oh no!, and I've ordered so many bottles of Mayhem X1 for my Loop... (I've got like 6 bottles of X1 Red, and 8 bottles of Clear 250ml concentrates)

If they are bad for Nickels plating.. then *what is another good alternative Coolant to use that is friendly with Nickel and PETG tubing?*


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> AlphaCool
> WaterCool
> Aquacomputer
> 
> They all make them.


Thanks!









I'll check those out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Won't go into detail of all the companies they've blatantly ripped off, because sadly there are many Enthusiast builders' who will continue to support them. Even when they know Tt does it. They vote with their wallets and if Tt wasn't making money at the expense of other manufacturers, they simply would not do it. Which is sadder than Tf ripping off others.









~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Oh no!, and I've ordered so many bottles of Mayhem X1 for my Loop... (I've got like 6 bottles of X1 Red, and 8 bottles of Clear 250ml concentrates)
> 
> If they are bad for Nickels plating.. then *what is another good alternative Coolant to use that is friendly with Nickel and PETG tubing?*


Ice Dragon Nano Fluid (Just add the dye you want). My one PC is running that coolant with PETG.


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I'm sure Mick (Mayhem's) will be pleased to hear that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would RMA the block and assemble the loop without the GPU and reinstall the air cooler (assuming you have it) until you get the block back. A lot of work but better than going for weeks without it.


Can't because I'm using a custom case and my gpu had a hybrid aio on it. I'd have to undo my whole build and go back to my old case to fit my aio back on etc.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Oh no!, and I've ordered so many bottles of Mayhem X1 for my Loop... (I've got like 6 bottles of X1 Red, and 8 bottles of Clear 250ml concentrates)
> 
> If they are bad for Nickels plating.. then *what is another good alternative Coolant to use that is friendly with Nickel and PETG tubing?*


I'm not saying x1 is the problem, EK customer support is. You probably won't have a problem because this looks like a plating issue on my block.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Oh no!, and I've ordered so many bottles of Mayhem X1 for my Loop... (I've got like 6 bottles of X1 Red, and 8 bottles of Clear 250ml concentrates)
> 
> If they are bad for Nickels plating.. then *what is another good alternative Coolant to use that is friendly with Nickel and PETG tubing?*


I've never heard of it being an issue (take that for what it is) and Mayhem's does list nickel compatibility for x1. I've been using it for about a year now, thought it's been changed many times and the only nickel plating in my loop is my fittings. Perhaps EK just blamed the x1 because he isn't using EK's coolant. Probably would've happened either way imo. couldve been a ph thing too with the vinegar and no neutralizer, depending on the ph of the dw?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Can't because I'm using a custom case and my gpu had a hybrid aio on it. I'd have to undo my whole build and go back to my old case to fit my aio back on etc.
> I'm not saying x1 is the problem, EK customer support is. You probably won't have a problem because this looks like a plating issue on my block.


If they're willing to fix it will they give you a refund instead so you can get a different block faster? or cross ship you one so you can swap them immediately and then send yours in?


----------



## xshadowwolfx

Hey guys I'm new to water cooling and was a bit confused about fittings. Does my intended loop make sense? These adapters allow me to connect directly to a block or component right? But I still need a fitting on the other end? This is for a PETG 10/12mm hard tubing loop in a Phanteks Evolv ATX.

Pump/Res Combo (EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM + res tube replacement)
- 1 45 angled adapter + 1 fitting as OUT
- 1 90 angled adapter + 1 fitting + multiport top as IN + 1 plug + 1 internal tube
- 1 extender + 1 ball valve as DRAIN + 1 drain cap

GPU Block (EK-FC1080 GTX Strix - Nickel + backplate)
- 1 90 angled adapter + 1 fitting as OUT
- 1 fitting as IN

CPU Block (EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel)
- 2 fittings as IN/OUT

Radiator (EK-CoolStream PE 360)
- 2 fittings as IN/OUT

45 angled adapter https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-angled-45-g1-4-nickel-
90 angled adapter https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-black-nickel

multiport top https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport
plug https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-plug-g1-4
internal tube https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm
res tube https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-tube-150-104mm

extender https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-extender-6mm-m-m-black-nickel
ball valve https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-ball-valve-10mm-g1-4-black-nickel
cap https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-csq-plug-g1-4-black-nickel

fitting https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hdc-fitting-12mm-g1-4-black-nickel

Obviously I still need some tubing, coolant, fans, thermal paste, and some tools, but that shouldn't be too hard. Thanks!


----------



## AllGamer

@xshadowwolfx

Suggestion avoid the Nickel plated stuff









Just a bit too much drama with the Nickel flaking off due oxidation with other components.

Plain Copper seems to be the safest bet.
Yes Copper will also get oxidation over time, but it only turns into the well known greenish, yellowish, blueish stripes, while the Nickel flaking makes it looks like as if it's corroded, but it's actually the copper underneath that makes it look like as if it's "rusting"

The rest of your list seems sound, and yes it's usually 2 fittings per component (in / out), although the choice for 45 degree out and 90 degree in seems interesting.

This is just my personal opinion, but I'd suggest (3/8in ID X 5/8in OD) 16mm tubes / fittings instead, thicker wider tubes keeps the shape better, thinner tubes like 10/12mm kinks up easily, if you want to keep that thin size, you might consider using those spring looking tubes for anti-kinking


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xshadowwolfx*
> 
> Hey guys I'm new to water cooling and was a bit confused about fittings. Does my intended loop make sense? These adapters allow me to connect directly to a block or component right? But I still need a fitting on the other end? This is for a PETG 10/12mm hard tubing loop in a Phanteks Evolv ATX.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Pump/Res Combo (EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM + res tube replacement)
> - 1 45 angled adapter + 1 fitting as OUT
> - 1 90 angled adapter + 1 fitting + multiport top as IN + 1 plug + 1 internal tube
> - 1 extender + 1 ball valve as DRAIN + 1 drain cap
> 
> GPU Block (EK-FC1080 GTX Strix - Nickel + backplate)
> - 1 90 angled adapter + 1 fitting as OUT
> - 1 fitting as IN
> 
> CPU Block (EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel)
> - 2 fittings as IN/OUT
> 
> Radiator (EK-CoolStream PE 360)
> - 2 fittings as IN/OUT
> 
> 45 angled adapter https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-angled-45-g1-4-nickel-
> 90 angled adapter https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-black-nickel
> 
> multiport top https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport
> plug https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-plug-g1-4
> internal tube https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm
> res tube https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-tube-150-104mm
> 
> extender https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-extender-6mm-m-m-black-nickel
> ball valve https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-ball-valve-10mm-g1-4-black-nickel
> cap https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-csq-plug-g1-4-black-nickel
> 
> fitting https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hdc-fitting-12mm-g1-4-black-nickel
> 
> Obviously I still need some tubing, coolant, fans, thermal paste, and some tools, but that shouldn't be too hard. Thanks!


I like diagrams. They help "See" what you're talking about.





TCO


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Oh no!, and I've ordered so many bottles of Mayhem X1 for my Loop... (I've got like 6 bottles of X1 Red, and 8 bottles of Clear 250ml concentrates)
> 
> If they are bad for Nickels plating.. then *what is another good alternative Coolant to use that is friendly with Nickel and PETG tubing?*


I've used X1 in the past without any issues. And I always used nickel blocks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Suggestion avoid the Nickel plated stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit too much drama with the Nickel flaking off due oxidation with other components.


I've used 15+ GPU blocks and 8+ CPU blocks in the last 4-5 years and they were all Nickel finished.
I never had any nickel flaking on any of them. Some had some discoloration but that's it.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What case is that?
> 
> TCO


I was wondering the same thing and also wish I had him build my loop....looks amazing!


----------



## fbmowner

Hey everyone, I am looking for a clear full cover block for my 2 Evga GTX 1070 FTW cards. Can someone point me in the right direction? I don't see anything in the compatibility list that shows FTW edition cards =( and I have no idea if the PCB's are set the same on the different editions of the cards. Thanks!


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Sorry. I'm not a photographer but I hope this qualifies me for being in the club.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> I was wondering the same thing and also wish I had him build my loop....looks amazing!


I wish he could pay for the case. Lol.

TCO


----------



## fitzy-775

Just added some EK pastel red to the loop.


----------



## fitzy-775

Just added some EK pastel red to the loop.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

I ordered 8 fittings from EK and all of them have damaged threads. I emailed EK customer service and received the following message:

Thank you for contacting us.
We are sorry for the problem you described.

Actually this is ok, it does not affect screwing. But I can send you the black ones, and I will select the less ''damaged''.

EK sent me 8 more under an RMA and all 8 still have damaged threads.

-Kind of pissed they are passing along supplier quality issues to end customers. Clearly, the old Yugo factories need to update their tooling.
-I don't feel confident in the performance of the threads when there are only 2-3 threads holding the fitting to the block/pump/rad
-At this point my only option is to send the old ones back under the RMA, but they did not include a return shipping label, so I have to pay to ship from California to Slovenia.


----------



## Ceadderman

Contact the vendor and have them swapped out. Years ago I got some 1/2"×3/4" EK fittings in Black and used a light to check them out. The interior of the fittings showed brass in spots. I probably could've still used them but I contacted Performance-PCs and let the know of the issue and got me all swapped out without any quibbling over the issue. I suspect that your vendor will do the same.









At least it's a way to save on shipping. If you used PayPal, your return shipping should be free as part of their buyer protection plan.









~Ceadder


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I've used X1 in the past without any issues. And I always used nickel blocks.
> I've used 15+ GPU blocks and 8+ CPU blocks in the last 4-5 years and they were all Nickel finished.
> I never had any nickel flaking on any of them. Some had some discoloration but that's it.


I'll take your word for it







after all I do recall reading X1 was safe from bunch of us that frequent here often.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Brand new loop, visible nickel flaking on the gpu block from the 2nd day onwards. Pics are from the loop running 1 week.
> Cleaned rads with 20+ flushes with distilled water. First two flushes were 1/3 vinegar+2/3 water and the rest were with just distilled water.
> Didn't open the blocks to do any pre-cleaning on them. All brand new stuff and using mayhems x1 100ml concentrate that was mixed properly with distilled water.
> Using ek pe 360 rads, ek evo cpu nickel, ek titan x nickel, ek d5 and bitspower fittings, all brand new stuff.
> 
> GPU block with flash:
> 
> 
> GPU block w/o flash:
> 
> GPU block w/o flash and the areas marked:
> 
> 
> EK customer support said it's because of mayhems x1, but why would it only affect the gpu block?
> I can't have my computer down for weeks RMA'ing this block to the next continent over. Should I switch to something not mayhems x1 like a pastel coolant to get it to stop flaking more and hide it?


You got some severe electrolysis going on there. It's not the coolant, you need to try to isolate your loop from both gpu and cpu with a total coverage of ek's ekotherm, check by sticking a voltmeter into fill port on res and checking both ground and millivolts. You also need to make sure the power going to your power supply is very, very clean. Use a UPS with pure sine wave. Voltage is leaking BIG TIME somewhere. No need to get new parts until you get that figured out. It takes a lot of current to do that in one week. I fully expect suppliers like EK to begin implementing design and build methods meant to TOTALLY isolate the whole loop from electrolysis. Also, rubber case feet can help also.. Maybe EK can chime in on this and how we can better isolate our loops from stray voltage. I know high overclocks can contribute to this also.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> You got some severe electrolysis going on there. It's not the coolant, you need to try to isolate your loop from both gpu and cpu with a total coverage of ek's ekotherm, check by sticking a voltmeter into fill port on res and checking both ground and millivolts. You also need to make sure the power going to your power supply is very, very clean. Use a UPS with pure sine wave. Voltage is leaking BIG TIME somewhere. No need to get new parts until you get that figured out. It takes a lot of current to do that in one week. I fully expect suppliers like EK to begin implementing design and build methods meant to TOTALLY isolate the whole loop from electrolysis. Also, rubber case feet can help also.. Maybe EK can chime in on this and how we can better isolate our loops from stray voltage. I know high overclocks can contribute to this also.


Would what you described create a smell if it is occurring? I am getting a pretty intense ozone smell from my chassis exhaust ports. I originally suspected the solvent under the paint on my radiators but perhaps something is arcing or what you described etc.

smells like electricity.... if that makes sense with a slight tinge of chemicals.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Yes, that's SEVERE electrolysis. I can't tell you what, in your system, what is causing it. With the voltmeter your case is ground and on the other lead you need the attachment like the pointed voltmeters have and just touch the coolant through the top of the res. With that kind of delaminating going on I'd have to think the voltage would be pretty high. I will look at your build thread carefully, can you update it with every picture you took, just not replicas so i can see as many details as I can. You will need to use the ecotherm on the cpu also when you reassemble. But I would not reassemble with new parts until I found the problem and you definitely have a problem going on there. I would even check voltage and ground of the case itself. I would clean, reassemble, and run the loop with only cpu and watch it for a few days and do some research and if that is all clear add in the gpu. Google Andees custom watercooling pics and contact those owners and see if there were any problems like you're having. The "white" air bubbles during the fill tells me that there was some other chemical in the loop. XT1 Clear never has done that with me. Did you test the PH? Did you use concentrate or premix? You STILL have a major voltage leak but this could be exacerbated by incorrect ph of the coolant. Research and research. What exactly did you drill on the GPU?? I read something in the build log that you had to do some drilling?? That could be the problem??? Check and double check for ground faults, drop the overclocks, study up on electrolysis and voltage leak with high overclocks etc, etc. You need to go ahead and get the pointer end adapter for your voltmeter,, ph strips etc. Get XT1 clear concentrate. Check PH of water before adding to XT1 and before adding to system etc. Step by step and baby steps and make absolutely sure everything is perfect. You might want to totally isolate that backplate from the GPU with thermal pads. That could be the problem right there.


----------



## Sazexa

Has anyone here recently bought and installed a monoblock for the Rampage V Edition 10? I specifically have the RGB block, and, I think I might have messed up my board being confused about step #3 on the installation manual. It says to punch out a "sticker" in the screw holes on the CPU socket's screw-in portion. Which I did, as it stated, gently. I'm wondering if I had this step confused or didn't grasp what the manual was saying properly.


----------



## Kutalion

I did it on asus monoblok. Its all fine, it is some layer of plastic bag like material, you punch it through so the pillars of cpu portion can pass through to the other side.

Scroll to 5:10.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fbmowner*
> 
> Hey everyone, I am looking for a clear full cover block for my 2 Evga GTX 1070 FTW cards. Can someone point me in the right direction? I don't see anything in the compatibility list that shows FTW edition cards =( and I have no idea if the PCB's are set the same on the different editions of the cards. Thanks!


Here's what you need : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/catalogsearch/result/?q=EK-FC+1080+FTW


----------



## fbmowner

Thanks. I ended up finding it in the compatability list and grabbed a couple for my 1070s =). I have a couple more questions on a thread i started if youd like to check that out, i wont double post in this thread but thanks a ton again.


----------



## akira749

Hi Everyone,

I will be away on vacations from December 23th to January 7th. So if you post some questions here, they might not be answered right away.

I wish you all a great holiday season and see you in 2017!!!


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> I will be away on vacations from December 23th to January 7th. So if you post some questions here, they might not be answered right away.
> 
> I wish you all a great holiday season and see you in 2017!!!


Merry Xmas and Happy New Year 2017 to you and your family, best wishes


----------



## xshadowwolfx

Anyone know how to mount the EK-XRES Revo D5 to the Phanteks Evolv ATX case?

The older EK pump/res units it seems like I could have just screwed the pump/res directly to the bottom of the case but this one has a holder and the case doesn't appear to have the right holes on the back wall for it. Do I drill?

Can I use just a reservoir holder to hold the combo unit?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xshadowwolfx*
> 
> Anyone know how to mount the EK-XRES Revo D5 to the Phanteks Evolv ATX case?
> 
> The older EK pump/res units it seems like I could have just screwed the pump/res directly to the bottom of the case but this one has a holder and the case doesn't appear to have the right holes on the back wall for it. Do I drill?
> 
> Can I use just a reservoir holder to hold the combo unit?


I am cutting a hole in the PSU chamber. I will mount the pump to the side of the case between the Phanteks logo and the hard drive chamber. The motor half will be in the PSU chamber and the reservoir will protrude through the hole and be visible.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xshadowwolfx*
> 
> Anyone know how to mount the EK-XRES Revo D5 to the Phanteks Evolv ATX case?
> 
> The older EK pump/res units it seems like I could have just screwed the pump/res directly to the bottom of the case but this one has a holder and the case doesn't appear to have the right holes on the back wall for it. Do I drill?
> 
> Can I use just a reservoir holder to hold the combo unit?


You could try one of these https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan


----------



## KUbeastmode

This was my first build in quite awhile and my first time ever doing a custom loop. The results so far are very impressive.

Specs:
Corsair Obsidian 750D Airflow - 5.25 bays removed
i5-6600k OC @ 4.6ghz @ 1.33~v
Asus Z170-AR Mobo
Corsair Vengeance LED 16GB DDR4-3200
Crucial MX100 236 SSD
1TB WD Blue 7200 HDD
Asus GTX 1070 Strix (Minor tweaks to the OC profile)
EVGA Supernova 850 G2

EKWB Extreme 360 Kit:
-EK Supremacy Evo - Full Copper CPU Block
-EK-CoolStream XE 360 64mm deep rad!!
-3x EK-Vardar SP Fans
-EK-DDC 3.2 PWM Elite Edition Pump
+ all the accessories like the 3 pin LED's I have in the CPU block and the pump bracket.

Then addded the following on top of the above:
2x EK-CoolStream PE 240 radiator
EK-FC1080 GTX Strix - Nickel GPU Block
Additional straight and 90 degree EK comp fittings for a total of like 17 on the loop.
EK-Ekoolant Evo - UV Blue (Note: I ended up choosing this coolant because it was the best Blue colored option from EK. I had heard mixed things on pastel but wanted to keep it from EK. The kit came with the 100ml clear mix which I used on the first run of the loop before the 2nd 240 went in.)
Also, the while film from the res insert has been removed since this pics

Case Fans:
Front: 2x Corsair AF140L Silent Edition (OEM Case Fan) (Intake/Push to front 240 rad)
Bottom: 2x Corsair AF120 Blue LED (Intake/Push from under bottom 240 rad)
2x Thermaltake Riing12 Blue LED (Intake/Pull from top of bottom 240 rad)
Rear: 1x Corsair AF140L Silent Edition (OEM Case Fan) (Exhaust)
Top: 3x EK-Vardar SP Fans (SP Pull Configuration on top 360 XE rad)


----------



## V3n0m15

Just got into liquid cooling and 90% of my loop is EKWB minus the pump










I had the predator 240 and that's what all started my love for liquid cooling. I then upgraded to clear tubing and a EK-RES X3 150. Well in the process the acrylic cracked in the block that it came with







(EK supremacy MX) so I purchased a EK Supremacy EVO Acetal/Nickel CPU block.


















I was going to pull the 6W DDC 3.2 pump out of the Predator and install the Swiftech MCP35X 18W w/Bitspower heatsink. Well I was going to do that but then decided it would be so much easier to fill and maintain my loop of the pump was below the res. That's when I decided to install it into the back of my Corsair 740 case



















Future Upgrades:
EKWB 240 SE
EKWB 360 SE
3 x EK-Vadar F4-120ER
EKWB ASUS STRIX GPU Block Acetal/Nickel

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## V3n0m15

Just got into liquid cooling and 90% of my loop is EKWB minus the pump










I had the predator 240 and that's what all started my love for liquid cooling. I then upgraded to clear tubing and a EK-RES X3 150. Well in the process the acrylic cracked in the block that it came with







(EK supremacy MX) so I purchased a EK Supremacy EVO Acetal/Nickel CPU block.


















I was going to pull the 6W DDC 3.2 pump out of the Predator and install the Swiftech MCP35X 18W w/Bitspower heatsink. Well I was going to do that but then decided it would be so much easier to fill and maintain my loop of the pump was below the res. That's when I decided to install it into the back of my Corsair 740 case



















Future Upgrades:
EKWB 240 SE
EKWB 360 SE
3 x EK-Vadar F4-120ER
EKWB ASUS STRIX GPU Block Acetal/Nickel

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## Mack42

I have the X-RES REVO D5 combo, but I cannot get the o-oring in place for the HD-Tube in the bottom of the reservoir (to replace the EK divider logo).. I can see that there is a o-ring cavity when I look down the hole, but the o-ring seems slightly too big to fall into place there. I literally tried for an hour. I really cannot see how it can be done.

Anyone can help with instructions? Or have I gotten a too big o-ring?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a video! This is also the launch of my own brand, please sub/like etc. I'm not above whoring myself out to OCN'ers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full Disclosure: Still work for EK, don't you worry


Congrats and gl!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> So... are the EK guys secretly working with TT to produce their Water cooling stuff?
> 
> Because this looks extremely similar to the EK blocks, look
> 
> Bridge Dual
> 
> 
> Dual Series 3-Slot
> 
> 
> If you guys are not working with them, that's like a total rip off.
> 
> The same goes with their video card blocks, they are sooooo similar.
> 
> Other brands like Bitspower / HeatKiller / XSPC / Koolance / etc they all have their own unique designs but TT... is like blatant copy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ThermalTake has been ripping off other companies for years. They have Cases that are direct copies of Case-Labs cases.
Click to expand...

They have cooped some and licensed others. Imo cl is the most known by not the first or the last

Thermal fake will continue to make its Legacy, as many use the age old excuse "I would not of bought the case, it is too expensive, but I'll buy this one because it's cheaper. They should not of charged so much for this case


----------



## TheCautiousOne

"Send him Black Radiators, He will Like that" EK.

Me:

"No, no, where is the paint"

More in my Siggy for the S3.



TCO


----------



## V3n0m15

Sweet! I plan on getting the XSPC EX V3 Rads with 18 FPI which is slightly less than the EKWB version but come in white already.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3n0m15*
> 
> Sweet! I plan on getting the XSPC EX V3 Rads with 18 FPI which is slightly less than the EKWB version but come in white already.


I used the pre painted white Rx Xspc 360mm rad in Ze popped Cherry. Was pleased with the quality of the paint.

TCO


----------



## V3n0m15

I'm thinking about biting the bullet and purchasing 8 Noctua Fans 5 for the 240 and the 360 and the other three will be 140s that will be case fans... It's just so pricey!!!! Do you guys think it would be worth it? Or should I get 7 120s and 1 140 just in case in the future I add a 240 on the bottom of my case as well? I think a 240 and 360 for a CPU/GPU cooled system is plenty though and SLI isn't in my future.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## KUbeastmode

Why would you get the Noctua's? They are overpriced under performing eye sores IMO.

9 of my 10 case fans are on my 3 rad's and I don't have any issues.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *They should not of charged so much for this case*


But they did. The reason should be clear enough, but small company's have to charge more to offset their overhead. Without companies like Tf outright stealing designs of the little guys, CLabs could eventually bring down the price of their cases due to growth. Not like they're asking for our first born after all. Look at everything you get with a CLabs too. Tf won't offer a tenth of the accessories that CLabs offers to their customers.









Hopefully Kim Jon Un will go on one of his temper tantrums and drop a nuke on Tf. Problem solved.









~Ceadder


----------



## V3n0m15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KUbeastmode*
> 
> Why would you get the Noctua's? They are overpriced under performing eye sores IMO.
> 
> 9 of my 10 case fans are on my 3 rad's and I don't have any issues.


What fans are you currently using?

Well it was between the Noctua (black version) or the EK-Vardar F4-120ERs in Black. I would do 5 - F4-120ERs as my Rad Fans and the 3 - F3-140ERs for case fans (2 on bottom and 1 in Rear)

I'm tempted to just buy the BULK deal they have right now with the Black and Gray fans.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## emsj86

The Vadar fans are not bad for the price. But maybe some will disagree with me fans are more looks than performance. He difference between cheap loons and the higher prices noctuA is small. If money is a factor keep what you have you wont get much if any difference buying different fans.


----------



## hiarc

Just got the email about the 10th anniversary EVO, I'm kind of tempted.











Spoiler: EVO Email Screenie


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Just got the email about the 10th anniversary EVO, I'm kind of tempted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: EVO Email Screenie


Whats the difference I didn't get an email and would like know.

Edit just managed find

https://www.ekwb.com/news/supremacy-evo-10th-anniversary/?utm_source=EKWB+Newsletter&utm_campaign=c719409061-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2016_12_28&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_640d0a72ff-c719409061-135255945

Defo going to want to order one of these would looking amazing in new build i'm making.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Just got the email about the 10th anniversary EVO, I'm kind of tempted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: EVO Email Screenie


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Whats the difference I didn't get an email and would like know.
> 
> Edit just managed find
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/news/supremacy-evo-10th-anniversary/?utm_source=EKWB+Newsletter&utm_campaign=c719409061-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2016_12_28&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_640d0a72ff-c719409061-135255945
> 
> Defo going to want to order one of these would looking amazing in new build i'm making.


It has a very Deus Ex (new ones anyways) style to it. I like it.


----------



## smithydan

10% storewide?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> It has a very Deus Ex (new ones anyways) style to it. I like it.


I am very tempted to build a gold/black Deus Ex themed PC.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I am very tempted to build a gold/black Deus Ex themed PC.


Black, gray, and a little bit of gold. Very minimalist. It would be pretty sweet. A black Evolv TG would be an excellent case for it.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Black, gray, and a little bit of gold. Very minimalist. It would be pretty sweet. A black Evolv TG would be an excellent case for it.




Too bad we are still a few years away from this.


----------



## DarthBaggins

oooh loved the email from EK, can't wait to see the price tag on this limited run item:


----------



## KUbeastmode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3n0m15*
> 
> What fans are you currently using?
> 
> Well it was between the Noctua (black version) or the EK-Vardar F4-120ERs in Black. I would do 5 - F4-120ERs as my Rad Fans and the 3 - F3-140ERs for case fans (2 on bottom and 1 in Rear)
> 
> I'm tempted to just buy the BULK deal they have right now with the Black and Gray fans.
> 
> Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


I run Vardar fans up top which I really like. I am currently switching out some other rad fans to SP120's and if I don't like those Ill probably just go all Vardar. They are really great and quiet for the price.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad we are still a few years away from this.


I only want transparent displays if they're actually frosted, and not fully transparent.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3n0m15*
> 
> I'm thinking about biting the bullet and purchasing 8 Noctua Fans 5 for the 240 and the 360 and the other three will be 140s that will be case fans... It's just so pricey!!!! Do you guys think it would be worth it? Or should I get 7 120s and 1 140 just in case in the future I add a 240 on the bottom of my case as well? I think a 240 and 360 for a CPU/GPU cooled system is plenty though and SLI isn't in my future.
> 
> Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


really personal pref. imo buy gentle typhoons.

extras are up to you.

as to only 10 ? heh i bought 100 when i did my order, although they were far harder to find back then


----------



## Touge180SX

delete


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> I know this is not the classified section but I thought I would ask here:
> 
> Is anyone selling an EK 360 rad, preferably XE but am open to PE. Will buy new during the New Years sales but thought I would ask here first. Thanks!


I'm selling a brand new perfectly good SE


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> oooh loved the email from EK, can't wait to see the price tag on this limited run item:


Gold plated blocks are roughly $150 iirc. So times two and a limited run of 100 would likely see them priced in the $350 range. But I cannot wait to see what they are selling for.









~Ceadder


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I'm selling a brand new perfectly good SE


Thanks so much but has to be an XE or PE, SE is too thin for the cooling needed. Thanks though!!


----------



## Touge180SX

Looking to buy an EK 120 SE radiator. Let me know what you got. Thanks.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Change from my above post, but has to be a PE due to size restraints. So...
> 
> Looking to buy an EK 360 PE and 120 SE radiator. Let me know what you got. Thanks.


I have a 360 PE I may be willing to part with. I also have a 360 SE as well. I'm waiting for a few cases to release and plan my build before selling them. They should be shown at CES 2017 (Jan 5th to 8th I believe)

If you can hold out until then I'll give you a good price.


----------



## Yomny

All stuffed in a corsair 400c mid case Starting with x99 cpu block, dual gtx 1080 blocks with terminal attachment, little DDC pump front 360 with rear 120. Max temps with 1.35v OC cpu about 65C and GPU's both under 58C

BTW - Seems I forgot a little thing, a way to drain lol. Anyone care to share experiences on how to drain, safely without drain ports, valves etc.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> oooh loved the email from EK, can't wait to see the price tag on this limited run item:


Damn, this is sweet, maybe I should order one, since I'm still working on my system








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Gold plated blocks are roughly $150 iirc. So times two and a limited run of 100 would likely see them priced in the $350 range. But I cannot wait to see what they are selling for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


on that note...
Gold usually turns very malleable when hot... and our CPU average temp is around 50C... wouldn't that cause the gold to melt away ?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yomny*
> 
> All stuffed in a corsair 400c mid case Starting with x99 cpu block, dual gtx 1080 blocks with terminal attachment, little DDC pump front 360 with rear 120. Max temps with 1.35v OC cpu about 65C and GPU's both under 58C
> 
> BTW - Seems I forgot a little thing, a way to drain lol. Anyone care to share experiences on how to drain, safely without drain ports, valves etc.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would disconnect the tube that goes from the pump to the gpu. Plug the Fitting with you finger and drain what you can into a bowl from the tube that you have in your hand coming from the GPU.

Replace that fitting with a q rotary, add a drain valve with a 5mm male/male fitting, and put the Soft compression fitting back on one of the outlets of the q rotary to re-attach the soft tubing. The Pump appears to be at the lowest point of the loop.

TCO


----------



## Yomny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I would disconnect the tube that goes from the pump to the gpu. Plug the Fitting with you finger and drain what you can into a bowl from the tube that you have in your hand coming from the GPU.
> 
> Replace that fitting with a q rotary, add a drain valve with a 5mm male/male fitting, and put the Soft compression fitting back on one of the outlets of the q rotary to re-attach the soft tubing. The Pump appears to be at the lowest point of the loop.
> 
> TCO


Appreciate the help.

Figured the first time I'll have to make a mess somehow. I thought of syphoning out most of the water from the reservoir then eventually remove one of the tubes, lowest possible.

I'll add the drain valve with the needed extenders and splitter from ek on the left pump fitting which is the outlet. Just wanted to see how people without drain valves disassemble their loops.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yomny*
> 
> Appreciate the help.
> 
> Figured the first time I'll have to make a mess somehow. I thought of syphoning out most of the water from the reservoir then eventually remove one of the tubes, lowest possible.
> 
> I'll add the drain valve with the needed extenders and splitter from ek on the left pump fitting which is the outlet. Just wanted to see how people without drain valves disassemble their loops.


Yea.... I've made the mistake of not having one before...... Once.

After having to figure out how to drain it, I vowed to never do it again. Always have a drain.









TCO


----------



## Sazexa

So this is probably a silly question, but, is there a point at which more radiators don't help, and you're limited by the thermal conductivity of your blocks/liquid? I have an EK XE 480 right now, and I love it. I'm planning a new build, and was considering getting another rad, either a 360 XE or 480 XE. My temps are definitely very nice, but just for no reason other than I want it to run cooler, would I really benefit at all? Here's the current temps.

CPU: 30 | 65
MoBo: 35 | 55
GPU1: 30 | 55
GPU2: 30 | 55

The GPU's aren't over clocked, but the CPU is. Running at 1.25V/4.0GHz, base is 1.1V (I think?)/3.0GHz.


----------



## Chaoszero55

You can definitely get use out of another rad, I run 2 480 rads in my 900d, but to answer your question, as your load temps approach ambient, you aren't cooling as efficiently. Also, your rads may introduce enough reztricyion that the flow rate becomes low enough to hinder proper heat transfer, though between high and low sprrd pumps, there isn't a huge temp diff.


----------



## spyui

I just bought Ek supremacy evo , my socket is 2011-3 and I read the manual says that the optimal jetplate is J3 . However I can't identify which one is jet3 , Jet 1 and J3 look very identical . Can any of you help me a way to identify it ? What is the jetplate that come preinstall in the block ?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoszero55*
> 
> You can definitely get use out of another rad, I run 2 480 rads in my 900d, but to answer your question, as your load temps approach ambient, you aren't cooling as efficiently. Also, your rads may introduce enough reztricyion that the flow rate becomes low enough to hinder proper heat transfer, though between high and low sprrd pumps, there isn't a huge temp diff.


I run my two GPU'S and monoblock all in parallel with the one rad and it seems fine. I'm running it off an EK-DDC 3.2.

I do have a set of QDC's to disconnect the GPU's and monoblock from the loop.

I figure adding in another radiator won't hurt.

Idealy I'd like to get full load temps to be just around 50°C


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I run my two GPU'S and monoblock all in parallel with the one rad and it seems fine. I'm running it off an EK-DDC 3.2.
> 
> I do have a set of QDC's to disconnect the GPU's and monoblock from the loop.
> 
> I figure adding in another radiator won't hurt.
> 
> Idealy I'd like to get full load temps to be just around 50°C


do you know what your water-air DeltaT is at full load with the current setup? That will tell you a lot about what adding another rad will do for you


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> do you know what your water-air DeltaT is at full load with the current setup? That will tell you a lot about what adding another rad will do for you


I have no idea what the water temperature is. I keep meaning to buy a sensor and keep forgetting. The ambient air of the room is usually 67°F.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyui*
> 
> I just bought Ek supremacy evo , my socket is 2011-3 and I read the manual says that the optimal jetplate is J3 . However I can't identify which one is jet3 , Jet 1 and J3 look very identical . Can any of you help me a way to identify it ? What is the jetplate that come preinstall in the block ?


J3 is thinner of the two:



you ought to be able to feel it.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I have no idea what the water temperature is. I keep meaning to buy a sensor and keep forgetting. The ambient air of the room is usually 67°F.


hmm, don't forget to do that this time! A must have for every loop imo









what fan speeds do you usually run at full load? Any other way to get a rough estimate of water temps? My non contact thermometer gets pretty close to my temp sensors if I hit the base of a rad with it.

Also, my kryographics gpu blocks keep the idle temp of my GPUs within 2c of my water temp. I can get a pretty close guess on my water temps by looking at GPU temps a couple seconds after shutting down a long stress test. YMMV there though depending on blocks and mounting etc.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> hmm, don't forget to do that this time! A must have for every loop imo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what fan speeds do you usually run at full load? Any other way to get a rough estimate of water temps? My non contact thermometer gets pretty close to my temp sensors if I hit the base of a rad with it.
> 
> Also, my kryographics gpu blocks keep the idle temp of my GPUs within 2c of my water temp. I can get a pretty close guess on my water temps by looking at GPU temps a couple seconds after shutting down a long stress test. YMMV there though depending on blocks and mounting etc.


I definitely won't forget. I'm not sure, but I'd estimate idle temps are close to liquid temperature. My fans never go above 800 RPM I believe, and that's at full load. They will peak to 1,200 or 1,300 maybe when starting for a second.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I definitely won't forget. I'm not sure, but I'd estimate idle temps are close to liquid temperature. My fans never go above 800 RPM I believe, and that's at full load. They will peak to 1,200 or 1,300 maybe when starting for a second.


well I'd say record your idle temps and then start a full load (games, work, whatever you usually do) and record those load temps immediately after starting. Let the load run for a while and then monitor your load temps after that time. The difference should be close to your DeltaT. Once you stop the test, record your idle temps immediately and the difference between those and your initial idle temps should give you a close idea of your water temps. If you are at 10c difference or above then I'd add that rad. If not over, or just at 10c then you probably won't gain more than a couple °c IMO


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> You got some severe electrolysis going on there. It's not the coolant, you need to try to isolate your loop from both gpu and cpu with a total coverage of ek's ekotherm, check by sticking a voltmeter into fill port on res and checking both ground and millivolts. You also need to make sure the power going to your power supply is very, very clean. Use a UPS with pure sine wave. Voltage is leaking BIG TIME somewhere. No need to get new parts until you get that figured out. It takes a lot of current to do that in one week. I fully expect suppliers like EK to begin implementing design and build methods meant to TOTALLY isolate the whole loop from electrolysis. Also, rubber case feet can help also.. Maybe EK can chime in on this and how we can better isolate our loops from stray voltage. I know high overclocks can contribute to this also.


That's a little hard to say for certain from some pics of sealed blocks. It looks to me like ordinary staining and some odd lighting/flash conditions. The fact that it rubs off supports that.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I run my two GPU'S and monoblock all in parallel with the one rad and it seems fine. I'm running it off an EK-DDC 3.2.
> 
> I do have a set of QDC's to disconnect the GPU's and monoblock from the loop.
> 
> I figure adding in another radiator won't hurt.
> 
> Idealy I'd like to get full load temps to be just around 50°C


The GPU load temp minus 8-10c will be very close to coolant temp. Coolant temp minus the ambient temp of the room will give you your air-coolant delta.

Under perfect conditions where the new rad gets the same air flow and air temp as the original rad (like both rads running on an open bench) you will halve the delta. In practice in a real case rads often compete for access to intake air or exhaust flow restriction so you may not exactly get half.

So, say you have a 15c delta now, that would mean you could drop coolant temp by about 7c with a similar drop in component temps.

To halve the delta again and drop coolant another 3c would require another pair of rads.
This is diminishing returns.

In many instances fine tuning of what you already have can come close to matching what more rad space can do.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> The GPU load temp minus 8-10c will be very close to coolant temp. Coolant temp minus the ambient temp of the room will give you your air-coolant delta.
> 
> Under perfect conditions where the new rad gets the same air flow and air temp as the original rad (like both rads running on an open bench) you will halve the delta. In practice in a real case rads often compete for access to intake air or exhaust flow restriction so you may not exactly get half.


Right now is best case scenario,the build is on a test bench. Rad is completely unrestricted. I will like do push/pull when I get a case to offset the issue of air flow restrictions.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> well I'd say record your idle temps and then start a full load (games, work, whatever you usually do) and record those load temps immediately after starting. Let the load run for a while and then monitor your load temps after that time. The difference should be close to your DeltaT. Once you stop the test, record your idle temps immediately and the difference between those and your initial idle temps should give you a close idea of your water temps. If you are at 10c difference or above then I'd add that rad. If not over, or just at 10c then you probably won't gain more than a couple °c IMO


I'll try that sometime tonight or tomorrow. Or just order a sensor hahaha. I'd like to get two sensors, one just before the heat generating components and one after. Or would the heat diffusing into the liquid make them both show basically the same? I know as of now if I stress test the CPU or am gaming or something my temps sometimes drop immediately as much as 15C in some instances.


----------



## KUbeastmode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So this is probably a silly question, but, is there a point at which more radiators don't help, and you're limited by the thermal conductivity of your blocks/liquid? I have an EK XE 480 right now, and I love it. I'm planning a new build, and was considering getting another rad, either a 360 XE or 480 XE. My temps are definitely very nice, but just for no reason other than I want it to run cooler, would I really benefit at all? Here's the current temps.
> 
> CPU: 30 | 65
> MoBo: 35 | 55
> GPU1: 30 | 55
> GPU2: 30 | 55
> 
> The GPU's aren't over clocked, but the CPU is. Running at 1.25V/4.0GHz, base is 1.1V (I think?)/3.0GHz.


I run a 360 XE and (2) 240 PE's and my average loop temps are more like 26C at idle for both CPU/GPU and max 45C for the GPU, 55C for CPU. More rads!!!


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I definitely won't forget. I'm not sure, but I'd estimate idle temps are close to liquid temperature. My fans never go above 800 RPM I believe, and that's at full load. They will peak to 1,200 or 1,300 maybe when starting for a second.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well I'd say record your idle temps and then start a full load (games, work, whatever you usually do) and record those load temps immediately after starting. Let the load run for a while and then monitor your load temps after that time. The difference should be close to your DeltaT. Once you stop the test, record your idle temps immediately and the difference between those and your initial idle temps should give you a close idea of your water temps. If you are at 10c difference or above then I'd add that rad. If not over, or just at 10c then you probably won't gain more than a couple °c IMO
Click to expand...











i'm sorry that sometimes my reading comprehension is lacking so i ran aida's stress test for two minutes:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







now the temps for the cores were 58-64 then peaked to the max (69-75). i think the gpu was ~39.

so does that mean a 17c rise in water temp (75-58) with a 7c delta (40-33) using core#3 temps?


----------



## spyui

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> J3 is thinner of the two:
> 
> 
> 
> you ought to be able to feel it.


Ya i already know about this but when i compare thickness between J1 and J3, i cant see any different though







. I even put them on the flat glass table and they are pretty much identical to each other.


----------



## AresTheGod

Hi,

Would have two question.

First, is there a way to change the top a CPU block? I have a Supremacy EVO block already but it is the Nickel edition and I want to replace it with acetal. I found an EVO acetal upgrade kit for cheap but I want to be sure it can be used for replacing just the top as well and it seems the product is in end of life, I could only find it at Highflow.nl...

The second thing is, that when I tried to unscrew my GPU block of my EK-FC980 GTX Ti TF5 - Acetal+Nickel, 2 screw got blocked and the socket of one, when I tried to remove the block got away and the other one is just blocked, and I can't separate the block from my GPU... My question would be, can it cause leaks?

Thanks!

Please excuse me if I posted this in the wrong section.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyui*
> 
> Ya i already know about this but when i compare thickness between J1 and J3, i cant see any different though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I even put them on the flat glass table and they are pretty much identical to each other.


i'm sorry i don't how to help. it took me two seconds; after picking up the J3 it felt to thin compared to J1 that i could have bent it easily. comparatively it flexed in my fingers with hardly any effort.


----------



## V3n0m15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyui*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> J3 is thinner of the two:
> 
> 
> 
> you ought to be able to feel it.
> 
> 
> 
> Ya i already know about this but when i compare thickness between J1 and J3, i cant see any different though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I even put them on the flat glass table and they are pretty much identical to each other.
Click to expand...

J1 is installed in the block when you receive it. J2 and J3 are the ones that come in the packaging. The J3 has the cutouts that are different than the other two so the J2 is the one without the cutouts in the packaging. That's how I figured it out.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## V3n0m15

Correction J2 has the extra cutouts not J3....

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I'll try that sometime tonight or tomorrow. Or just order a sensor hahaha. I'd like to get two sensors, one just before the heat generating components and one after. Or would the heat diffusing into the liquid make them both show basically the same? I know as of now if I stress test the CPU or am gaming or something my temps sometimes drop immediately as much as 15C in some instances.


I would recommend multiple sensors mainly so that you can average them to get a better idea of the whole loop and minimize errors. I have an Aquaero and forget that this isn't always easy to do. I have 3 temp sensors; 1st is before my OC'd 4790k and 2x GTX 980's (about 750w full system load), 2nd is just after these 3 blocks and the 3rd is after 480mm of rad space. The difference depends on flowrate, but with 2xD5's set to "5" it's usually between 1-2°c. With both pumps set to "1" it's been as high as 5°c. Really, one sensor should be just fine

The Difference you are looking for would be the amount of a drop that you get AFTER that 15c drop that takes a just a second. That drop is just the difference between the cpu/gpu and the block, the difference you're looking for is basically the water keeping your cpu/gpu warmer than it would be while it is idling for long periods of time. Sorry I feel like I'm not explaining this very well









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'm sorry that sometimes my reading comprehension is lacking so i ran aida's stress test for two minutes:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now the temps for the cores were 58-64 then peaked to the max (69-75). i think the gpu was ~39.
> 
> so does that mean a 17c rise in water temp (75-58) with a 7c delta (40-33) using core#3 temps?


Sorry, I wrote that on my break while I was eating pizza in my truck. Let me have another go at this.

At idle for long periods of time, lets say my max temps are as follows
cpu: 30 gpu: 30

When I start multiple stress test for cpu/gpu my temps are
cpu: 50 gpu: 40

After 30 minutes (long enough for temps to max and balance) temps have crept up a bit
cpu: 57 gpu: 47

That 7°c increase on my GPU temps was because my water temps have gone up 7°c. CPU temps are a bit jumpier and don't mean as much, but you've got to have that realistic load running or you aren't getting the full picture of what is happening in your loop.

NOW when I stop these stress tests and let the PC idle, temps are very quickly going to fall, USUALLY after 10 seconds or so, to somewhere around:
cpu: 37 gpu: 37

That is the same 7°c of water temp increase, that will be dissipated by your rads and idle temps will drop back down to:
cpu: 30 gpu: 30

It is definitely not perfect, but I used to do this to figure my water temps out before I got a sensor and it was pretty much spot on once I finally got one installed to verify.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AresTheGod*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Would have two question.
> 
> First, is there a way to change the top a CPU block? I have a Supremacy EVO block already but it is the Nickel edition and I want to replace it with acetal. I found an EVO acetal upgrade kit for cheap but I want to be sure it can be used for replacing just the top as well and it seems the product is in end of life, I could only find it at Highflow.nl...
> 
> The second thing is, that when I tried to unscrew my GPU block of my EK-FC980 GTX Ti TF5 - Acetal+Nickel, 2 screw got blocked and the socket of one, when I tried to remove the block got away and the other one is just blocked, and I can't separate the block from my GPU... My question would be, can it cause leaks?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Please excuse me if I posted this in the wrong section.


I have a Supremacy MX, I swapped the mx top for an EVO clear plexi top. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't also work.
And I'm not sure what you're saying exactly. Do you mean that the thread or head of the screw is stripped so you cannot remove it?


----------



## AresTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I would recommend multiple sensors mainly so that you can average them to get a better idea of the whole loop and minimize errors. I have an Aquaero and forget that this isn't always easy to do. I have 3 temp sensors; 1st is before my OC'd 4790k and 2x GTX 980's (about 750w full system load), 2nd is just after these 3 blocks and the 3rd is after 480mm of rad space. The difference depends on flowrate, but with 2xD5's set to "5" it's usually between 1-2°c. With both pumps set to "1" it's been as high as 5°c. Really, one sensor should be just fine
> 
> The Difference you are looking for would be the amount of a drop that you get AFTER that 15c drop that takes a just a second. That drop is just the difference between the cpu/gpu and the block, the difference you're looking for is basically the water keeping your cpu/gpu warmer than it would be while it is idling for long periods of time. Sorry I feel like I'm not explaining this very well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, I wrote that on my break while I was eating pizza in my truck. Let me have another go at this.
> 
> At idle for long periods of time, lets say my max temps are as follows
> cpu: 30 gpu: 30
> 
> When I start multiple stress test for cpu/gpu my temps are
> cpu: 50 gpu: 40
> 
> After 30 minutes (long enough for temps to max and balance) temps have crept up a bit
> cpu: 57 gpu: 47
> 
> That 7°c increase on my GPU temps was because my water temps have gone up 7°c. CPU temps are a bit jumpier and don't mean as much, but you've got to have that realistic load running or you aren't getting the full picture of what is happening in your loop.
> 
> NOW when I stop these stress tests and let the PC idle, temps are very quickly going to fall, USUALLY after 10 seconds or so, to somewhere around:
> cpu: 37 gpu: 37
> 
> That is the same 7°c of water temp increase, that will be dissipated by your rads and idle temps will drop back down to:
> cpu: 30 gpu: 30
> 
> It is definitely not perfect, but I used to do this to figure my water temps out before I got a sensor and it was pretty much spot on once I finally got one installed to verify.
> I have a Supremacy MX, I swapped the mx top for an EVO clear plexi top. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't also work.
> And I'm not sure what you're saying exactly. Do you mean that the thread or head of the screw is stripped so you cannot remove it?


Ok thanks








Neither, it's what I thought was part of the block, the thing where you actually screw the screw that got remove from it's socket


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AresTheGod*
> 
> Ok thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neither, it's what I thought was part of the block, the thing where you actually screw the screw that got remove from it's socket


OHH do you mean the standoff that is screwed into the block came unscrewed when you tried to remove the screw from it? I don't think that could cause leaks but I could definitely see it causing a bad mount or some other issue maybe.


----------



## AresTheGod

Yup it's what i'm afraid of.
Plus I can't take out the block anymore and neither the backplate....


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'm sorry that sometimes my reading comprehension is lacking so i ran aida's stress test for two minutes:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now the temps for the cores were 58-64 then peaked to the max (69-75). i think the gpu was ~39.
> 
> so does that mean a 17c rise in water temp (75-58) with a 7c delta (40-33) using core#3 temps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, I wrote that on my break while I was eating pizza in my truck. Let me have another go at this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> At idle for long periods of time, lets say my max temps are as follows
> cpu: 30 gpu: 30
> 
> When I start multiple stress test for cpu/gpu my temps are
> cpu: 50 gpu: 40
> 
> After 30 minutes (long enough for temps to max and balance) temps have crept up a bit
> cpu: 57 gpu: 47
> 
> That 7°c increase on my GPU temps was because my water temps have gone up 7°c. CPU temps are a bit jumpier and don't mean as much, but you've got to have that realistic load running or you aren't getting the full picture of what is happening in your loop.
> 
> NOW when I stop these stress tests and let the PC idle, temps are very quickly going to fall, USUALLY after 10 seconds or so, to somewhere around:
> cpu: 37 gpu: 37
> 
> That is the same 7°c of water temp increase, that will be dissipated by your rads and idle temps will drop back down to:
> cpu: 30 gpu: 30
> 
> 
> 
> It is definitely not perfect, but I used to do this to figure my water temps out before I got a sensor and it was pretty much spot on once I finally got one installed to verify.
Click to expand...

gluten free pizza?









thanks for getting more detailed pretty sure i got your formula right, just need longer stressing. running just a 280 rad, i know i could use another but it doesn't seem as critical as i feared. i have the bios set for 100% 60c cpu temp (pump cpu header/fans cpu_opt) and still hear them vadars barely more than the D-14 i had.

again, thanks


----------



## Mega Man

Multiple sensors are not needed in a loop fyi. 1-2c is margin of error.

And at most your loop should differentiate 2c .

Don't need to average or anything


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Multiple sensors are not needed in a loop fyi. 1-2c is margin of error.
> 
> And at most your loop should differentiate 2c .
> 
> Don't need to average or anything


I though so, because the liquid temperature reaches an equilibrium once heat stops rising, correct?


----------



## spyui

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3n0m15*
> 
> J1 is installed in the block when you receive it. J2 and J3 are the ones that come in the packaging. The J3 has the cutouts that are different than the other two so the J2 is the one without the cutouts in the packaging. That's how I figured it out.
> 
> Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


Thank, i redo my block jetplate and got 30 C decrease. Apparently i need to put jet plate perpendicular to the fin which did not do it in the beginning when i change the jetplate. Ek should do better to include that in their manual.


----------



## V3n0m15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyui*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *V3n0m15*
> 
> J1 is installed in the block when you receive it. J2 and J3 are the ones that come in the packaging. The J3 has the cutouts that are different than the other two so the J2 is the one without the cutouts in the packaging. That's how I figured it out.
> 
> Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Thank, i redo my block jetplate and got 30 C decrease. Apparently i need to put jet plate perpendicular to the fin which did not do it in the beginning when i change the jetplate. Ek should do better to include that in their manual.
Click to expand...

When I switched mine out when I first got the new block I made sure to be very specific with how I put it back together. They make mention of the orientation in the directions but it can be a little confusing. As long as the cutouts in the copper and the jet plate make an + you are good to go!

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ragsters

Has anyone preordered the Supremacy Evo 10th anniversary?


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Has anyone preordered the Supremacy Evo 10th anniversary?


I'm not sure you can yet.

I would if you could.


----------



## AllGamer

only 100 pieces will be made.

it'll be a tough luck to get one









I'll try, but since i'm in America... i'm sure anyone living in Asia / Europe will wake up and snatch them all up before I even wake up in this side of the world.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Has anyone preordered the Supremacy Evo 10th anniversary?


I wish...holiday season has me so poor.


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> only 100 pieces will be made.
> 
> it'll be a tough luck to get one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try, but since i'm in America... i'm sure anyone living in Asia / Europe will wake up and snatch them all up before I even wake up in this side of the world.


I'm certainly going try snag one getting up early hope they go on sale in morning else at work and have zero chance of getting one. Would look perfect in my new build lol.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks great!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 1250$ ??


Holy cow. And Ive been putting off getting a Case Labs due to their price. Guess my Phanteks is my chassis for the rest of my life.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> only 100 pieces will be made.
> 
> it'll be a tough luck to get one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try, but since i'm in America... i'm sure anyone living in Asia / Europe will wake up and snatch them all up before I even wake up in this side of the world.


Oh man, they are limited to 100? I didnt even see that. I just saw the images. Thats too bad. I had a great mod for it that was going to look great. A cnc machined kevlar and carbon fiber bracket. It Just complimented it nice and I was almost done with it. I was making it just to show off (as I do with the other ek brackets Ive made). 100 is a little low. I know watercooling is a smaller market of a not-so-large market but still, how about 200?

EDIT: I should add that I never even saw the pre-order slot available in the web shop either. And, on the 27th, the date of the post, they only said they would be allowing pre-orders "next week". Thats pretty vague. Im gonna try to grab one but I doubt I'll get the timing just right


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Holy cow. And Ive been putting off getting a Case Labs due to their price. Guess my Phanteks is my chassis for the rest of my life.


Lmao, I understand.

For the Amount of Case's I have purchased.... Eh... Actually let's not think about that.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

I looked at cas and case like this. I bought a phantoms case for 100. Than another one for 200 and so forth every year. Than I figured why not spend 400 on a sm8 and have a case for years


----------



## Sazexa

I have the cash to drop now. Although, I'm having a really hard time choosing between the Murderbox MKII, Phanteks Enthoo Elite, Lian Li PCO-11, and In Win 909. lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Come get some




White Supremacy EVO and dual 240 EK XE Rads.

TCO


----------



## Sazexa

So, for those wondering about the performance of the EK R5E10 RGB monoblock;

I'm using an Intel i7-6950X OC'd up to 4.0GHz at 1.25V, and two GTX 1080's which are on stock clocks for now. I'll do some actual bench-mark/burn in tests tomorrow. This is comparing monoblock performance to the Supremacy Evo MX performance. Both set ups tested were paralleling both GPU's AND CPU. This was after temperatures reached a stable level in Battlefield 1, since that's a realistic game load a lot of people will meet.

Supremacy:
CPU - 65C
Motherboard - 60C
GPU's1 - 50C

R5E10 Monoblock:
CPU - 55C
Motherboard - 55C
GPU's 45C


----------



## Kutalion

Not really a valid test mate. If the monoblock is more efficient in transfering heat from cpu it will pour more heat into the loop thus making gpu temp higher.

Thats without the fact that you bring another component into the loop - mb VRM. So either fans spun faster or your load changed.


----------



## 0ldChicken

not necessarily. He said both were tested in a parallel setup and the monoblock has to have higher restriction, forcing more flow into the GPU blocks. The interesting thing is how the CPU is 10c cooler with the monoblock, which should now be receiving less flow than the supremacy was
edit: although I do see what Kutalion is saying more now. Water temps would be interesting here (funny it keeps coming up with you @Sazexa)


----------



## Kutalion

Actually EK monoblocks have VERY low restriction







I have the regular X99 monoblock and it is way less restrictive than my previous block. It has less microchannels than an EK supremacy evo on the same base.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Actually EK monoblocks have VERY low restriction
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the regular X99 monoblock and it is way less restrictive than my previous block. It has less microchannels than an EK supremacy evo on the same base.


really though? *I could totally be wrong* , but even if it had no microchannels and the cpu block base part was totally open, I would still think that such a large block with so many twists and turns would surely be more restrictive than the supremacy. Most of the monoblocks I've seen from EK use the same/similar style insert in the monoblock too. If so I guess good for EK, but then they should be able to make the EVO with next to nothing for restriction, not that it's too restrictive or anything, just trying to wrap my head around how that could even be possible haha








edit: Thanks thermalbench, looks like RV5 MB is substantially less restirctive than the EVO







Why is there no "foot in mouth" emoticon?
http://thermalbench.com/2015/04/14/ek-fb-asus-x99-rve-monoblock/5/


----------



## japanesegorilla

So yesterday I wired up a couple 3mm LEDs to run from a motherboard fan header and stuck them in the LED holes on the back of my EK CSQ Titan X block. However, I am a bit disappointed with how little they do. Obviously there is a lot more area for them to illuminate compared to my CPU block, and there were only 2 holes for LEDs as compared to 4 holes on my cpu block. Any suggestions for getting more illumination? I suppose I could drill out more holes myself or try to stick a short LED strip back there.



http://imgur.com/UxwnEAT


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Not really a valid test mate. If the monoblock is more efficient in transfering heat from cpu it will pour more heat into the loop thus making gpu temp higher.
> 
> Thats without the fact that you bring another component into the loop - mb VRM. So either fans spun faster or your load changed.


your right, but not due to the reason you state, i cant get more heat into my loop { with the fans turned up, 5 480s of varying thickness and all 4250 rpm gentle typhoons with pwm mods }

there is no mention of rig nor test environment/temps


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> really though? *I could totally be wrong* , but even if it had no microchannels and the cpu block base part was totally open, I would still think that such a large block with so many twists and turns would surely be more restrictive than the supremacy. Most of the monoblocks I've seen from EK use the same/similar style insert in the monoblock too. If so I guess good for EK, but then they should be able to make the EVO with next to nothing for restriction, not that it's too restrictive or anything, just trying to wrap my head around how that could even be possible haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: Thanks thermalbench, looks like RV5 MB is substantially less restirctive than the EVO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why is there no "foot in mouth" emoticon?
> http://thermalbench.com/2015/04/14/ek-fb-asus-x99-rve-monoblock/5/


That monoblock uses the older Supremacy cooling engine, the newer ones use the Supremacy Evo one which is slightly more restrictive.


----------



## KUbeastmode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> So yesterday I wired up a couple 3mm LEDs to run from a motherboard fan header and stuck them in the LED holes on the back of my EK CSQ Titan X block. However, I am a bit disappointed with how little they do. Obviously there is a lot more area for them to illuminate compared to my CPU block, and there were only 2 holes for LEDs as compared to 4 holes on my cpu block. Any suggestions for getting more illumination? I suppose I could drill out more holes myself or try to stick a short LED strip back there.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/UxwnEAT


Im in a similar boat with my 1080 Strix WB. The Strix comes with a bunch of nice RGB lighting stock, but you give all of that up for the water block.


----------



## Mattmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> EK XRES REVO, what a beautiful well engineered sku, wish ThermalBench.com would do a pumptop round-up comparing the XRES to the EK stand-alone tops.
> 
> EK makes the best selection of pump and res UNI mounts in my opinion, at least for gravity fed D5 isolation all forces using a vertical vector.
> 
> "Vertical Vector Victor" think that's a line from that old film Airplane!, hilarious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xres-100-revo-d5-reservoir-acetal.html
> 
> I hope enthusiasts aren't put off by the small size of the stock res tube, buy one of the 3 larger tubes 100% compatible with this sku, and bleed your rig like a madman.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It really looks good inside the case, and so much more room *after Jeremy's mod* to move around without bumping into the side walls and internal rad mount lateral to this view.
> 
> Cannot see the Sorbothane feet in this pic but they're under there, doing their job.
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5358_zps2wterpop.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5361_zpsfpcncrol.jpg.html
> 
> Uggggh, didn't believe would ever find a portion of this hobby I didn't enjoy until today, off to Home Depot to pick up some AWG24 gauge wire strippers, the hobby knife cuts right through the insulation just fine but also cuts the small wires right off, massive frustration, Uggggh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5354_zpspky3jnfr.jpg.html


How much space ist there between the pump and the top of the bottom foot of this EK stand?


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

I have been using EK blocks now for a long while. In fact my latest build is EK pump top, res, CPU Block and GPU Block.

I recently purchased a Titan X Pascal. Immediately ordered a nickel full cover block from Performance PC's. Managed to install it the other day.

It look absolutely horrible, especially in my case with a horizontal motherboard setup.

Emailed EK, they said it was normal. Another forum member stated it was because my PH was not suitable. Tested my PH and it is 7.5

I dont particularly want to pull apart a new block to clean it, but I suppose I have no choice.

Very POOR quality control and lack of customer care from EK.










You can see the discoloration under the center "lower" screw. It looks like "rust" and has got worse since taking this picture. It now extends along the channel off to the right.

Any ideas?

Cheers


----------



## Ceadderman

I can't see it tbh. I do see coolant seepage there and that *is* normal. Which is probably why EK has said what they said. They don't see where/what your issue is. It's not that I doubt you, it's simply a matter of lighting that is distorting the visual aid.

But what I see is bleed over, and that's normal for GPU blocks. Shouldn't need to clean it, but I do recommend pulling it apart and cleaning it with soapy water only(Nickel, after all) and then taking pics if the issue still exists.









~Ceadder


----------



## LazySoft

Just finished this loop with only EK parts.
Fans, blocks, pump, rads, res, fittings and tubes from EK.
Cooliant is Mayhems X1 Blood Red.


More about this build on EVGA Mods Rigs forum.
Case, PSU, GPU's and MB are EVGA parts.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I can't see it tbh. I do see coolant seepage there and that *is* normal. Which is probably why EK has said what they said. They don't see where/what your issue is. It's not that I doubt you, it's simply a matter of lighting that is distorting the visual aid.
> 
> But what I see is bleed over, and that's normal for GPU blocks. Shouldn't need to clean it, but I do recommend pulling it apart and cleaning it with soapy water only(Nickel, after all) and then taking pics if the issue still exists.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thank you for your reply sir! I will try and take another picture, to highlight the "staining". It looks like rust. Would it be oil left over from production?

I did not think that there was supposed to be bleed over??? Is bleed over normal?

Cheers


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Thank you for your reply sir! I will try and take another picture, to highlight the "staining". It looks like rust. Would it be oil left over from production?
> 
> I did not think that there was supposed to be bleed over??? Is bleed over normal?
> 
> Cheers


Bleed over is normal.

TCO


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Thoughts?



I can add an SE360 to the back panel of my Evolv ATX. It will go no airflow whatsoever, but...


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> I can add an SE360 to the back panel of my Evolv ATX. It will go no airflow whatsoever, but...


If you do some modding it might be cool to try. I'd definitely recommend just putting the 360 up front first though lol


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> If you do some modding it might be cool to try. I'd definitely recommend just putting the 360 up front first though lol




Mount in front? Too late


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Bleed over is normal.
> 
> TCO


X2 I don't see anything off in the picture. I do see bleed over which is just coolant passing between the gap between the metal and acrylic


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> 
> 
> Mount in front? Too late


So why dont you put a 360 up the top, leave the 240 in the front and be happy?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> So why dont you put a 360 up the top, leave the 240 in the front and be happy?


I am putting another 280 up top.

And a 140 rear. I can't fit the 140 rear if I have a 360 up top.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I am putting another 280 up top.
> 
> And a 140 rear. I can't fit the 140 rear if I have a 360 up top.


So correct me if Im wrong you are trying to put a 280 in the front and a 280 up top plus 140 in rear and a 360 on the RHS? What are you trying to cool?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> So correct me if Im wrong you are trying to put a 280 in the front and a 280 up top plus 140 in rear and a 360 on the RHS? What are you trying to cool?


And another 140 rear external.

I'm going to cool an an Intel smallblock (7700k or 6700k) and whatever AMD releases next (490 or 490x).


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> And another 140 rear external.
> 
> I'm going to cool an an Intel smallblock (7700k or 6700k) and whatever AMD releases next (490 or 490x).


Ok good luck







quite a challenge and massive overkill for what you are trying to cool.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Ok good luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quite a challenge and massive overkill for what you are trying to cool.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Ok good luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quite a challenge and massive overkill for what you are trying to cool.


I will definitely keep you updated. This build will be finished within a week of AMD and Intel releasing their latest stuff.

I know it's overkill but my goal is to stuff the Evolv ATX with as much cooling as possible. I recall toolmaker03 stating that if he were starting over, he would go with dual 480.

I expect to surpass that in a midsize case and look good doing it.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I will definitely keep you updated. This build will be finished within a week of AMD and Intel releasing their latest stuff.
> 
> I know it's overkill but my goal is to stuff the Evolv ATX with as much cooling as possible. I recall toolmaker03 stating that if he were starting over, he would go with dual 480.
> 
> I expect to surpass that in a midsize case and look good doing it.


ah ha!

i though you was this guy:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Thoughts on whether an EK D5 can handle 5 rads in an Evolv ATX? Only other restrictions will be an EK Supremacy EVO and GPU waterblock.
> 
> EK CE280
> EK SE360
> HWL GTR 280
> Alphacool 140x30
> Alphacool 140x45


http://www.overclock.net/t/1619903/d5-5-radiators/0_50

i'm going to suggest calling it Borg with all those line runs . . hard line?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

I already bought the soft tubing so I may just run soft tubing for a few weeks with distilled water and propylene glycol.

If it runs good, I'll make hard lines.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> And another 140 rear external.
> 
> I'm going to cool an an Intel smallblock (7700k or 6700k) and whatever AMD releases next (490 or 490x).


I tried a 140 on the rear along with my two 280s. The issue was that I couldn't get enough cool air to it and it didn't help my temps at all. I ended up going with intake on the front and top rad and just an exhaust fan on the rear. That way I am only pulling cool air over my radiators and the unrestricted fan in the rear moves that warmer air out. That seemed to improve my delta over the other setup.

If it were me, I would go with the 360 + 280 and make them both intake and go with rear exhaust. Would probably look cleaner too.


----------



## Domiro

I noticed one of my EK acrylic tops has some tiny cracks around the top of the threading. They're maybe 2-3 mm in length and not very deep. Would taking a heatgun to it reseal/repair it?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I tried a 140 on the rear along with my two 280s. The issue was that I couldn't get enough cool air to it and it didn't help my temps at all. I ended up going with intake on the front and top rad and just an exhaust fan on the rear. That way I am only pulling cool air over my radiators and the unrestricted fan in the rear moves that warmer air out. That seemed to improve my delta over the other setup.
> 
> If it were me, I would go with the 360 + 280 and make them both intake and go with rear exhaust. Would probably look cleaner too.


The front 280 will be on a push/pull, which should help with getting air into the case.

I'll try your way first. Then I'll change to max radiators. If I get better temps my way, I'll leave it.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Does anybody know of a way to mount the EK Supremacy EVO to a 2011-V3 motherboard?

The instruction set that comes with the block lists the jet plate for the cpu, but on the EK site it says that this block is not compatible with these motherboard/cpus.

After mounting it following the LGA2011 setup I see that the standoffs are too tall which doesn't let the block contact the CPU.

Did EK offer a different standoff set or have they just moved on from this?

My solution was to install the RVE e10 monoblock instead, but as I have this block just sitting here it would be nice to get some utility from it.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Does anybody know of a way to mount the EK Supremacy EVO to a 2011-V3 motherboard?
> 
> The instruction set that comes with the block lists the jet plate for the cpu, but on the EK site it says that this block is not compatible with these motherboard/cpus.
> 
> After mounting it following the LGA2011 setup I see that the standoffs are too tall which doesn't let the block contact the CPU.
> 
> Did EK offer a different standoff set or have they just moved on from this?
> 
> My solution was to install the RVE e10 monoblock instead, but as I have this block just sitting here it would be nice to get some utility from it.


Their should be multiple standoffs for the different platforms. If I recall their was two different sets that came with mine. I would check the box to see if you missed something.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

They also make a specific version of the cpu block for the 2011-3. Just the standoffs and mount for that chipset. Nice and secure, easy to install.

I have one sitting here now, doing nothing.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Does anybody know of a way to mount the EK Supremacy EVO to a 2011-V3 motherboard?
> 
> The instruction set that comes with the block lists the jet plate for the cpu, but on the EK site it says that this block is not compatible with these motherboard/cpus.
> 
> After mounting it following the LGA2011 setup I see that the standoffs are too tall which doesn't let the block contact the CPU.
> 
> Did EK offer a different standoff set or have they just moved on from this?
> 
> My solution was to install the RVE e10 monoblock instead, but as I have this block just sitting here it would be nice to get some utility from it.


I had no problem putting the EVO on my Asus x99 Sabertooth mobo. Sounds weird. Did you forget the springs? Too late for a picture i suppose?

Edit looking at the manual, I bet your using the wrong standoffs like Revan suggested. Should have come with two sets. You want to use the ones on the left...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Yea, you just need to use the screws that are threaded shorter on one side.

Ive mounted the EVO to a couple X99 boards. 5930k, 5820k.

TCO


----------



## Sazexa

I had one mounted to two different X99 boards, both with different X99 sockets. Square ILM and Narrow ILM. Some examples...

Square ILM:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Narrow ILM:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







You're supposed to change the Jet plane for X99 boards, and then the block comes with screws that go into the X99 socket first. Then, you place the block down. Then use springs under thumb screws to tight down the block. Obviously with thermal paste applied before hand, and tightening in a cross-pattern.


----------



## Dagamus NM

I used the shorter standoffs. I also used that stupid plastic thing to drop the CPU in without bending pins or whatever. When I took the block off there was zero contact with the CPU, the thermal paste did not touch the block. I used the shorter standoffs.

Hmm, I must have used the AMD mounts and not the Intel ones. Anyhow, I took it off and used the RGB monoblock instead. I've got an x79 4930k I can toss this on. Thank you all.


----------



## Enapace

Has anyone ordered the 10th Anniversary CPU Block ordered mine it does look sweet.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Has anyone ordered the 10th Anniversary CPU Block ordered mine it does look sweet.


The price is not bad only $300

I'm on the fence, because I already have regular transparent EVO nickel

The gold and black doesn't really go with my White / Red build

If I were going for Black theme I'd have ordered immediately.

I can still order it, but it'll do nothing but sit on the shelf.... and that would be a waste of a precious Block


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> The price is not bad only $300
> 
> I'm on the fence, because I already have regular transparent EVO nickel
> 
> The gold and black doesn't really go with my White / Red build
> 
> If I were going for Black theme I'd have ordered immediately.
> 
> I can still order it, but it'll do nothing but sit on the shelf.... and that would be a waste of a precious Block


I am doing a Gold/Red Build my motherboard and Pumps are Black so think it will work well.

I am wondering how well it will look next to my Titan Pascal Gold Backplates I also ordered.


----------



## Mega Man

i would of, but they are out. so ... no


----------



## snef

finally NDA is lifted

want to say a BIG Thanks to EKWB for the support for CES2017 build, really appreciate

some pics of Dark Aura

Hex Gear R80
ASUS Maximus IX Formula
Intel I5 7600k
Kingston RGB ram (not on photos)
ASUS GTX1080 Strix
EKWB watercooling


----------



## looniam

very NICE!

am i the only one thinking the parallel gpu/cpu flow is like having two separate loops?


----------



## AllGamer

Agreed very nice indeed, color changing too


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> finally NDA is lifted
> 
> want to say a BIG Thanks to EKWB for the support for CES2017 build, really appreciate
> 
> some pics of Dark Aura
> 
> Hex Gear R80
> ASUS Maximus IX Formula
> Intel I5 7600k
> Kingston RGB ram (not on photos)
> ASUS GTX1080 Strix
> EKWB watercooling


Love your work, awesome as always:thumb:


----------



## DarthBaggins

Top notch as always @snef


----------



## Ceadderman

Lovely build and top notch as alsways snef.









~Ceadder


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> very NICE!
> 
> am i the only one thinking the parallel gpu/cpu flow is like having two separate loops?


Astute observation.
My initial reaction was no, but neither component sees the others hot discharge, so yes.


----------



## fitzy-775

So i want to add a ek pe 240 rad in the front of my case. What would be the best way to route my loop?


----------



## Ceadderman

Move the Res out from the pump to the Rad In, and send the Rad out to the Pump. Problem solved.









~Ceadder


----------



## fitzy-775

I thought it was always best to have the res directly feeding the pump. Would this be harder to fill this way?


----------



## KaffieneKing

I think he means rad out to the rest in.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope. I meant what I said. You can put a Reservoir anywhere in the loop. It doesn't have to be Res to Pump first. Based on it's current location so long as the Radiator is full it can supply the pump just fine with the Res supplying the Radiator the necessary coolant. Also if you do this, you would want the fittings of the Radiator to be at the bottom of the loop.









When you fill the system, just tip the case to fill the Radiator and bump prime the pump manually until you're comfortable with powering it up. After that you should be good to go.









~Ceadder


----------



## Biggu

^ this, the reason people say to have res first then pump is due to making sure the pump always has fluid when bleeding.


----------



## buellersdayoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> So i want to add a ek pe 240 rad in the front of my case. What would be the best way to route my loop?


CPU to rad, then back to res. Rad outlets @ top.


----------



## looniam

^thats what i was thinking.

disconnect the cpu outlet, turn the 90 on top of the res towards the rad and cut line to length. run a new line from cpu outlet to rad.

though looking at it in my mind's eye; chedderman's suggest will probably look better and use less tubing; two short runs vs one long one.


----------



## mods9165

I decided to try out the new EK-AF Angled 90° 2F on my Parvum rig to see if I preferred them to a normal bend. To be honest, I will always lean more to the man made bend then fittings ones, but they still look good.
These new fittings are very easy to use with EK-HDC and are a quick way to get a hard tube build going. Very secure as well, with absolutely no leak issues. I just made sure to get the tube ends as flat and smooth as possible.
I found using mandrills to produce bends quite hard and had spectacular failures with PETG. I did have better luck with E22 acrylic tubes (used here), but sadly, they seem to have stopped making them now.



Thanks to Snerf for his tube layout design which I copied from his Steiner build.


----------



## KUbeastmode

Looks good!!


----------



## fbmowner

EK Supremacy Evo with Clear top, 2x FC1080 FTW gpu blocks, EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM, a few EK fittings and 2x 360x30mm BP and Qcool rads with lots of time and love =) I havent posted my build since I started with 1 240 EK rad with the pump combo 1 block and soft tubing. How It's grown


----------



## Mack42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mack42*
> 
> I have the X-RES REVO D5 combo, but I cannot get the o-oring in place for the HD-Tube in the bottom of the reservoir (to replace the EK divider logo).. I can see that there is a o-ring cavity when I look down the hole, but the o-ring seems slightly too big to fall into place there. I literally tried for an hour. I really cannot see how it can be done.
> 
> Anyone can help with instructions? Or have I gotten a too big o-ring?


Bumping this in hope that someone can chime in. EK rep also said he would be back January 7th.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Just got my Supremacy Evo acetal + copper CPU waterblock leaking!

Certainly cannot blame EK. It was working for a year with no issues. Then in August I took it apart for cleaning, put it back together, leak tested, and it continued working until today. And today I noticed water dripping from where acetal cover attaches to copper plate. The o-ring was in place and all screws were tightened.

What puzzles me is that the leak did not happen in 4.5 months and then in one day I got a pretty significant leak. I'll clean and reassemble the waterblock, making sure everything is tight, and do extensive leak-testing.

Water dripped right into PCIe slot of the topmost GPU, but it appears to have been working when I shut the system down. Hope it survived.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Just got my Supremacy Evo acetal + copper CPU waterblock leaking!
> 
> Certainly cannot blame EK. It was working for a year with no issues. Then in August I took it apart for cleaning, put it back together, leak tested, and it continued working until today. And today I noticed water dripping from where acetal cover attaches to copper plate. The o-ring was in place and all screws were tightened.
> 
> What puzzles me is that the leak did not happen in 4.5 months and then in one day I got a pretty significant leak. I'll clean and reassemble the waterblock, making sure everything is tight, and do extensive leak-testing.
> 
> Water dripped right into PCIe slot of the topmost GPU, but it appears to have been working when I shut the system down. Hope it survived.


Definitely order a replacement gasket from EK. Is it possible you cleaned the oil off the gasket?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

I rinsed it in distilled water while cleaning the waterblock. It looks fine, no damage or anything. I have not seen any oil on the o-ring neither before nor after the rinsing, never even heard there should be oil there.

And it was working for a year before the cleaning, and then for another 4.5 months after the cleaning, and then the leak started in a day.

I may get a replacement o-ring just because it is cheap, but I am still at a loss as to what has happened here.


----------



## wizardbro

Try using some waterproof silicone grease on the o-ring.
EVOs come with grease pre-applied on the o-ring.


----------



## Mega Man

An example of the above is molykote (from dow corning used to be called "111")


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Interesting, never realized there is supposed to be waterproof grease on EK o-rings. Thanks for the info!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

At this point, you can't completely trust that o-ring and should order a new one. Who knows? Maybe EK sources some of their o-rings from old Yugo factories in Slovenia.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Agreed; no point in risking recurring leak for few dollars - replacement o-ring is on its way, as well as Dow Corning Molykote 111.


----------



## Squashie

This is so much fun XD




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## AllGamer

Yellow! my favourite colour









I originally wanted to make a Yellow Canary / Orange built, but most of my parts were either white or red... so it didn't combine, and went with red/white instead.


----------



## AllGamer

Question to fellow EK owners....

Have you guys had any trouble with your EK radiators Fan mounting Screw holes?

I found 3 out of the 4x EK XE 360 I ordered had "worn" screw holes, at several holes, not all but like each radiator would have 1 or 2 up to 4 holes that were way too big.

instead the 3x EK PE 360 radiators were in better shape, only 1 bad hole on those 3x PE models.

The packaging looked fine, I don't have a sure way to know if those were _*USED*_ rads or not, but it certainly feels like someone used and returned it to PPC.

One specific EK XE 360 looked really banged up, but that was probably due FedEx poor handling, after all the original shipping box was HUGE, as seen in one of the pictures I posted before.

Anyways got them all cleaned up and ready to go, next chance I get some free time, i'll tweak the case configuration a bit, then I can finally start running the PETG tubes.



I got around the Radiators bad holes by using Teflon tapes to secure them nicely.

Look at all the dirt, black debris, and metal fillings in the sink after flushing out all the radiators with hot water, it was quick and easy with QDC to plug/unplug

 

*Interesting Notes about EK Radiators:*
- XE series are stronger in design, and dissipate heat better
- XE series usually have loosely bolted G1/4 spacer
- *XE series have very bad Quality Control for the screw holes, many bad holes, too loose for screws*
- PE models have a weaker design, not able to hold high PSI
- PE models usually have their G1/4 spacer bolted properly


----------



## akira749

Some news for the upcoming Intel H4 (Kaby Lake) and AMD AM4 (Ryzen) and their compatibility with our current products

EK confirms AMD® Socket AM4 compatibility

EK announces Intel® Socket H4 (LGA-1151) Kaby Lake compatibility


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Question to fellow EK owners....
> 
> Have you guys had any trouble with your EK radiators Fan mounting Screw holes?
> 
> I found 3 out of the 4x EK XE 360 I ordered had "worn" screw holes, at several holes, not all but like each radiator would have 1 or 2 up to 4 holes that were way too big.
> 
> instead the 3x EK PE 360 radiators were in better shape, only 1 bad hole on those 3x PE models.
> 
> The packaging looked fine, I don't have a sure way to know if those were _*USED*_ rads or not, but it certainly feels like someone used and returned it to PPC.
> 
> One specific EK XE 360 looked really banged up, but that was probably due FedEx poor handling, after all the original shipping box was HUGE, as seen in one of the pictures I posted before.
> 
> Anyways got them all cleaned up and ready to go, next chance I get some free time, i'll tweak the case configuration a bit, then I can finally start running the PETG tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> I got around the Radiators bad holes by using Teflon tapes to secure them nicely.
> 
> Look at all the dirt, black debris, and metal fillings in the sink after flushing out all the radiators with hot water, it was quick and easy with QDC to plug/unplug
> 
> 
> 
> *Interesting Notes about EK Radiators:*
> - XE series are stronger in design, and dissipate heat better
> - XE series usually have loosely bolted G1/4 spacer
> - *XE series have very bad Quality Control for the screw holes, many bad holes, too loose for screws*
> - PE models have a weaker design, not able to hold high PSI
> - PE models usually have their G1/4 spacer bolted properly


Was the foil tape still on the EK logo?

I received a CE radiator that was in great shape but was missing the foil seal. It looked like it had been repainted because the paint scratched easily with a fingernail.

My SE radiator came brand new and the paint was difficult to scratch but it chipped easily.

The CE radiator was on sale. Was the XE on sale?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Was the foil tape still on the EK logo?
> 
> I received a CE radiator that was in great shape but was missing the foil seal. It looked like it had been repainted because the paint scratched easily with a fingernail.
> 
> My SE radiator came brand new and the paint was difficult to scratch but it chipped easily.
> 
> The CE radiator was on sale. Was the XE on sale?


ahh... you are right, new EK stuff should have the blueish tape on top of the EK logo.

no, all the radiators I got did not have the blueish tape on top of the EK logo

They were all at regular priced from PPC, i had them since before the holidays, was waiting for other parts to arrive before working on them.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> ahh... you are right, new EK stuff should have the blueish tape on top of the EK logo.
> 
> no, all the radiators I got did not have the blueish tape on top of the EK logo
> 
> They were all at regular priced from PPC, i had them since before the holidays, was waiting for other parts to arrive before working on them.


The radiators usually don't have the little blueish sticker on the logo if I remember correctly


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> ahh... you are right, new EK stuff should have the blueish tape on top of the EK logo.
> 
> no, all the radiators I got did not have the blueish tape on top of the EK logo
> 
> They were all at regular priced from PPC, i had them since before the holidays, was waiting for other parts to arrive before working on them.


Just purchased 2 x 240mm XE Rads and they had no stickers. BNIB from PPC.

TCO


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The radiators usually don't have the little blueish sticker on the logo if I remember correctly


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Just purchased 2 x 240mm XE Rads and they had no stickers. BNIB from PPC.
> 
> TCO


Thanks both for the confirmation, but that is kind of confusing, it would have made more sense if the rest of the product lines did the same.

Because all the CPU / GPU Blocks, Reservoirs, and Pumps have the blue sticker protecting the EK logo, I was under the impression the same should have been true for the Radiators as well


----------



## geriatricpollywog

My SE360 had a sticker. I bought direct from EK.


----------



## CastorTroy

I have an EK Supremacy Clean CSQ(older supremacy, not the newer Evo). Is the new Supremacy AM4 mounting plate compatible with my CSQ, or do I need to get a new waterblock?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Thanks both for the confirmation, but that is kind of confusing, it would have made more sense if the rest of the product lines did the same.
> 
> Because all the CPU / GPU Blocks, Reservoirs, and Pumps have the blue sticker protecting the EK logo, I was under the impression the same should have been true for the Radiators as well


What's the problem? That they don't have a sticker?

TCO


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What's the problem? That they don't have a sticker?
> 
> TCO


it's not a biggie, just a nice way to know if the item is pristine new, or "returned" item


----------



## zerophase

I just wanted to double check that the Aquacomputer Kryom M.2 plate is compatible with a nickel plated EK-Supremacy EVO Elite, and the Asus R5E Nickel + acetal Waterblock.

They should be fine in the same loop right? I would use EK, but they don't have a M.2 cooler. (I know I don't really need it, but it cleans up the loop a bit and removes a few edge cases with throttling)


----------



## Uselesstool

Hey everyone!

Getting ready to setup my case with EK parts. I have a question for you.

I've just bought an EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP.

Something I had worried about before buying and it seems to be true is that there is no way I can see to adjust the final angle the multiport top ends up at after screwing into the tube & pump housing.

Is there anyway that this angle can be adjusted? I'm hoping I am missing something obvious? I think the threads are only single start.

Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Interesting, never realized there is supposed to be waterproof grease on OK o-rings. Thanks for the info!


it really helps but is not necessary
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Agreed; no point in risking recurring leak for few dollars - replacement o-ring is on its way, as well as Dow Corning Molykote 111.


protip dont get it on your hands, and use gloves to apply !!!!


----------



## cmpxchg8b

@Mega Man Oh wow, sure, will put gloves on.
Just waiting for the parts to arrive, and will start putting the loop back together.
In the meantime I'm letting any spills dry up. Still haven't tested the video card, that's my biggest concern, its PCIe connector was practically soaked in coolant.


----------



## Mega Man

you dont have to. however gl getting it off your hands!!!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CastorTroy*
> 
> I have an EK Supremacy Clean CSQ(older supremacy, not the newer Evo). Is the new Supremacy AM4 mounting plate compatible with my CSQ, or do I need to get a new waterblock?


The new backplate and new mounting plate will be compatible with the non-EVO Supremacy.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I just wanted to double check that the Aquacomputer Kryom M.2 plate is compatible with a nickel plated EK-Supremacy EVO Elite, and the Asus R5E Nickel + acetal Waterblock.
> 
> They should be fine in the same loop right? I would use EK, but they don't have a M.2 cooler. (I know I don't really need it, but it cleans up the loop a bit and removes a few edge cases with throttling)


It should be fine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Uselesstool*
> 
> Hey everyone!
> 
> Getting ready to setup my case with EK parts. I have a question for you.
> 
> I've just bought an EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP.
> 
> Something I had worried about before buying and it seems to be true is that there is no way I can see to adjust the final angle the multiport top ends up at after screwing into the tube & pump housing.
> 
> Is there anyway that this angle can be adjusted? I'm hoping I am missing something obvious? I think the threads are only single start.
> 
> Thanks!


Unfortunately no.

You're putting the top on which component? A single res, a pump/res combo?


----------



## Uselesstool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You're putting the top on which component? A single res, a pump/res combo?


Yea, on top of a pump res combo. However I think I've solved it.. I just kind of left the topcap not SUPER tight but tight enough to make sure the O-Rings do their job still. Should be fine.


----------



## Mack42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Some news for the upcoming Intel H4 (Kaby Lake) and AMD AM4 (Ryzen) and their compatibility with our current products
> 
> EK confirms AMD® Socket AM4 compatibility
> 
> EK announces Intel® Socket H4 (LGA-1151) Kaby Lake compatibility


Hello, please see my post here.

I just want to know how hard this is supposed to be... Perhaps I am using the wrong technique, or perhaps no one uses the tube with o-ring to encounter the problem.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mack42*
> 
> Hello, please see my post here.
> 
> I just want to know how hard this is supposed to be... Perhaps I am using the wrong technique, or perhaps no one uses the tube with o-ring to encounter the problem.


I know that not a lot of people uses the tube instead of the Anticyclone.

But, you should still be able to put the o-ring in place. Do you feel like the o-ring is too big to fit in the groove or is your issue with sliding the o-ring inside the hole to reach the groove?


----------



## CastorTroy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The new backplate and new mounting plate will be compatible with the non-EVO Supremacy.










Do you know if it'll need a new jet plate as well? Will that be included with the new mounting plate if so?


----------



## Mack42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I know that not a lot of people uses the tube instead of the Anticyclone.
> 
> But, you should still be able to put the o-ring in place. Do you feel like the o-ring is too big to fit in the groove or is your issue with sliding the o-ring inside the hole to reach the groove?


I can reach the groove after some fiddling, and I can get most of the o-ring to fit inside the groove, but there is a piece left that won't just slide in there without another part of the o-ring sliding out. After looking at it carefully, I can draw no other conclusion than that the o-ring is slightly too big.

Perhaps I can attach a picture of it, if I have the patience of going through with it again.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mack42*
> 
> I can reach the groove after some fiddling, and I can get most of the o-ring to fit inside the groove, but there is a piece left that won't just slide in there without another part of the o-ring sliding out. After looking at it carefully, I can draw no other conclusion than that the o-ring is slightly too big.
> 
> Perhaps I can attach a picture of it, if I have the patience of going through with it again.


I agree with you that it's probably a problem with the o-ring being a bit too big.

My suggestion is to open a support ticket and explain them what you just told me and they will send you a replacement o-ring.

Here's the link for the ticket : https://www.ekwb.com/customer-care/


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CastorTroy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you know if it'll need a new jet plate as well? Will that be included with the new mounting plate if so?


I didn't hear anything about a new jet plate. So for now, I assume that the current jet plates are fine.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I didn't hear anything about a new jet plate. So for now, I assume that the current jet plates are fine.


on the topic of Jet Plate.... I was reading elsewhere people using Pastel base coolant, they are saying it's better to run the EVO CPU blocks without the Jet plate.

In a way it kind of make sense, since it allows faster liquid flow, but I was wondering if there's any unintended side effect by not using the Jet Plate inside the WaterBlock?


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> on the topic of Jet Plate.... I was reading elsewhere people using Pastel base coolant, they are saying it's better to run the EVO CPU blocks without the Jet plate.
> 
> In a way it kind of make sense, since it allows faster liquid flow, but I was wondering if there's any unintended side effect by not using the Jet Plate inside the WaterBlock?


The Aurora coolant is the only coolant I know of where the particles will stay suspended better without the jet plate. The pastel coolants should be fine with the jet plate in.

I believe the CPU will run a few degrees warmer without the jet plate.


----------



## Iceman2733

You are fine to keep the jet plate with pastel I have been on pastel for several months with no issues with temps or the coolant.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> on the topic of Jet Plate.... I was reading elsewhere people using Pastel base coolant, they are saying it's better to run the EVO CPU blocks without the Jet plate.
> 
> In a way it kind of make sense, since it allows faster liquid flow, but I was wondering if there's any unintended side effect by not using the Jet Plate inside the WaterBlock?


You are fine to keep the jet plate with pastel fluids, I have been on pastel fluids for several months with the jet plate installed No issues with the CPU temps or coolant changing colors due to particles falling out.


----------



## BurntEnds

Was anyone able to get their hands on one of those amazing-looking "Supremacy EVO 10th Anniversary" CPU Blocks? EK ran a limited edition run of 100 units and sold out (on Pre-orders) soon after release. I think this would look spectacular in a Black/Gold themed case.










Here's the link: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/supremacy-evo-10th-anniversary
Listed at $300


----------



## Enapace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BurntEnds*
> 
> Was anyone able to get their hands on one of those amazing-looking "Supremacy EVO 10th Anniversary" CPU Blocks? EK ran a limited edition run of 100 units and sold out (on Pre-orders) soon after release. I think this would look spectacular in a Black/Gold themed case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the link: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/supremacy-evo-10th-anniversary
> Listed at $300


I got one for my Red/Gold build with Black Accents on Motherboard and Pumps


----------



## Sazexa

Did anyone see EK's Instagram post about what looked like a new reservoir?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Did anyone see EK's Instagram post about what looked like a new reservoir?


Looks like the updated XRES 4 glass reservoir.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BurntEnds*
> 
> Was anyone able to get their hands on one of those amazing-looking "Supremacy EVO 10th Anniversary" CPU Blocks? EK ran a limited edition run of 100 units and sold out (on Pre-orders) soon after release. I think this would look spectacular in a Black/Gold themed case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the link: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/supremacy-evo-10th-anniversary
> Listed at $300
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got one for my Red/Gold build with Black Accents on Motherboard and Pumps
Click to expand...

Out of stock. No longer available.









Wish I'da had the funds but hopefully they all went to good homes.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> on the topic of Jet Plate.... I was reading elsewhere people using Pastel base coolant, they are saying it's better to run the EVO CPU blocks without the Jet plate.
> 
> In a way it kind of make sense, since it allows faster liquid flow, but I was wondering if there's any unintended side effect by not using the Jet Plate inside the WaterBlock?


I always used my jet plates with pastel coolants without any issues.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enapace*
> 
> Has anyone ordered the 10th Anniversary CPU Block ordered mine it does look sweet.


300 dollars for a CPU block, Even limited Edition seems expensive. I do like that EK is donating some of the money to a charity. That block would not match any of my builds.

No,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> on the topic of Jet Plate.... I was reading elsewhere people using Pastel base coolant, they are saying it's better to run the EVO CPU blocks without the Jet plate.
> 
> In a way it kind of make sense, since it allows faster liquid flow, but I was wondering if there's any unintended side effect by not using the Jet Plate inside the WaterBlock?


I haven't any issues, I use Ice Dragon Nano Fluid with Mayhems Non-Stain dyes. I just took my gaming rig apart & still looks brand new. Theirs nothing to worry about. It's when you use Coolants with particles in them the jet plate will become an issue.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Did anyone see EK's Instagram post about what looked like a new reservoir?


That is XRes 4(Glass). I remember someone I know had one and the glass shattered on his. I hope EK when it's reintroduced the glass structure is better this time around. Just wish they posted this last week, Since I just bought a new res.


----------



## BurntEnds

Glass Reservoirs tend to shatter when Modders don't take the time to properly anchor or bracket them to a sidewall. I've seen many professional builds where folks forego their brackets and rely on hardline tubing (Or full metal connections) to support their reservoirs. Pop over to Google Images and search "900D Corsair" - look for their house build with Red Cabling and Red Shrouded fans. No bracketing on either reservoir! If that were glass, it would certainly be a candidate for fracture.

Overtightening your connections can result in micro-fracturing... which can also result in compromise if you exceed the max delta on temp specifications ... which causes the metal in your fittings to expand by a fraction of a millimeter.

There isn't too much of a gain in upgrading to glass other than *Small* improvements in clarity and transparency. But let's get real - when is the last time you looked at someone's build and thought "Man, that guy went all out on reservoir transparency?"


----------



## Revan654

Cleaning my GPU Waterblock today, putting it back together is not fun. Those O-rings are a pain to get them back in place and have them stay.


----------



## nrpeyton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Cleaning my GPU Waterblock today, putting it back together is not fun. Those O-rings are a pain to get them back in place and have them stay.


Were those 'before' or 'after' pics of cleaning?

What are you using to clean the Nickel?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nrpeyton*
> 
> Were those 'before' or 'after' pics of cleaning?
> 
> What are you using to clean the Nickel?


More after the coolant was removed. Nothing except distilled water has touched the block in those pictures.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Cleaning my GPU Waterblock today, putting it back together is not fun. Those O-rings are a pain to get them back in place and have them stay.


Silicon grease works wonders for keeping o-rings in place.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nrpeyton*
> 
> Were those 'before' or 'after' pics of cleaning?
> 
> What are you using to clean the Nickel?


Molasses is great for cleaning nickel plated copper but you need to soak the part for up to a week. Works great on cast iron skillets too.


----------



## solarin006

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mack42*
> 
> I can reach the groove after some fiddling, and I can get most of the o-ring to fit inside the groove, but there is a piece left that won't just slide in there without another part of the o-ring sliding out. After looking at it carefully, I can draw no other conclusion than that the o-ring is slightly too big.
> 
> Perhaps I can attach a picture of it, if I have the patience of going through with it again.


I ran into the same problem fiddling around with my xres combo attempting to fit the tube instead. I ended up picking up a 3/4"OD x 5/8"ID x 1/16" thick o ring in the faucet section of my local home depot here (picture is not accurate). Fits in the groove perfect and the tube slides in tight.


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like the updated XRES 4 glass reservoir.


Looks like they're using a similar "closing" mechanism like what Aquacomputer uses. Something that I'm thankful for as the previous mechanism they used was very meh, plus I couldn't air test whatsoever with it since the end caps would allow air to escape (even if very slowly).

Let's see if they do a special trade your old X4 for the new X4 promo.


----------



## lever2stacks

I have a evga gtx 980 ti and it's got a back plate that came with it. I'm installing a ek titan x/980 ti water block on it right now I'm guessing I need different screws to use the factory back plate? If so what size screws do I need to use the factory back plate on it? thanks in advance

Lever


----------



## KUbeastmode

Hats off to EK Support on a quick RMA on my pump, the replacement came quick and its working perfectly!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Should I use 1 or 4 for Supremacy EVO on Kaby Lake? Also, should I use the default jet plate?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Should I use 1 or 4 for Supremacy EVO on Kaby Lake? Also, should I use the default jet plate?


Looks like the difference in question is Goofy Mount or Regular mount?

If that is the question, then it would be how your loop is oriented and if you need ports to meet inlet and outlet of a certain tubing run, etc.

TCO


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Looks like the difference in question is Goofy Mount or Regular mount?
> 
> If that is the question, then it would be how your loop is oriented and if you need ports to meet inlet and outlet of a certain tubing run, etc.
> 
> TCO


If i remember correctly, running goofy will affect temps. Not by much say you but still a slight difference. It's true that if you're going for looks over function then you can run it either goofy or regular. Me personally im more into function then looks so i went regular.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> If i remember correctly, running goofy will affect temps. Not by much say you but still a slight difference. It's true that if you're going for looks over function then you can run it either goofy or regular. Me personally im more into function then looks so i went regular.


I thought goofy was minorly better? I've forgotten which way is which tbh since I rotated my badge.
edit: nope, you're right http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/08/27/ek-supremacy-evo/


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I thought goofy was minorly better? I've forgotten which way is which tbh since I rotated my badge.
> edit: nope, you're right http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/08/27/ek-supremacy-evo/


But the difference is what, a fraction of a Celsius Degree?

TCO


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> But the difference is what, a fraction of a Celsius Degree?
> 
> TCO


A whopping .69°c


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> TCO


Hey, if you can find enough optimizations that're all .7c improvement then you're getting somewhere! though I guess this isn't really an improvement, just the way it's meant to be used


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Hey, if you can find enough optimizations that're all .7c improvement then you're getting somewhere! though I guess this isn't really an improvement, just the way it's meant to be used


Its pretty much free temperature drops when installed correctly, can't go wrong with that haha. I do believe there's a test somewhere that shows its more then .69°C but its totally CPU dependent.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Its pretty much free temperature drops when installed correctly, can't go wrong with that haha. I do believe there's a test somewhere that shows its more then .69°C but its totally CPU dependent.


I'm sure it also makes a bigger difference with naked mount since you don't have the ihs to.. uh.. spread the heat and you'd be effectively cooling the entire die with only a few rows in the middle.


----------



## 0ldChicken

So I might have found a decent deal on a couple "NIB" 1080FE waterblocks. Does EK still offer support if I buy unopened blocks from someone else? Would I need a copy of original invoice or anything? If anyone knows, i'd appreciate the input!
edit: bought them anyways







now I just need a few more rep to sell my 980's w/blocks here on OCN!


----------



## jleslie246

Do you (anyone) know if EK will sell just the top to their Super Evo? I have the one with crop circles and I would like to get the slick one. Id also consider a trade.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I thought goofy was minorly better? I've forgotten which way is which tbh since I rotated my badge.
> edit: nope, you're right http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/08/27/ek-supremacy-evo/


It depends on the cpu. The link you provided is for a 4770K. For a 6700k, goofy works a little better.

EDIT: Im not sure if anyone has run this test on KabyLake yet


----------



## smicha

EK waterblocks in action


----------



## smicha

EK waterblocks in action


----------



## paskowitz

Jesus! That's odd lot of GPUs!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> So I might have found a decent deal on a couple "NIB" 1080FE waterblocks. Does EK still offer support if I buy unopened blocks from someone else? Would I need a copy of original invoice or anything? If anyone knows, i'd appreciate the input!
> edit: bought them anyways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now I just need a few more rep to sell my 980's w/blocks here on OCN!


EK will offer you help on their products without need of invoice, If you want to RMA the item. That's a whole different story, which would require proof of purchase.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> EK will offer you help on their products without need of invoice, If you want to RMA the item. That's a whole different story, which would require proof of purchase.


well that would be the most important support but at half price I guess I'll take my chances







Thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> So I might have found a decent deal on a couple "NIB" 1080FE waterblocks. Does EK still offer support if I buy unopened blocks from someone else? Would I need a copy of original invoice or anything? If anyone knows, i'd appreciate the input!
> edit: bought them anyways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now I just need a few more rep to sell my 980's w/blocks here on OCN!


It would be best to have the original invoice if you can. But, if in the future you need some new o-rings or need to replace a cracked top, you shouldn't need the invoice for this if I remember correctly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Do you (anyone) know if EK will sell just the top to their Super Evo? I have the one with crop circles and I would like to get the slick one. Id also consider a trade.


If you're in the States, Performance-PCS has some replacement tops.

If you're from anywhere else or if P-PCS doesn't have the one you want, you can open a ticket on our website and ask for one. We'll be able to sell you a replacement top.

Link for P-PCS : http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-cpu-blocks/shopby/brand--ek-waterblocks/block-accessory-type--top/?

Link for the support ticket : https://www.ekwb.com/customer-care/


----------



## DarthBaggins

Only version I have of the Evo is the Acetal top


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It would be best to have the original invoice if you can. But, if in the future you need some new o-rings or need to replace a cracked top, you shouldn't need the invoice for this if I remember correctly.


Cool, hopefully nothing ever comes up but good to know. Thanks


----------



## madbrayniak

Hey all,

Just put in my EK Extreme 360 kit a few weeks ago and loving the temps and the quiet performance!

One thing that really blew me away was how quiet the pump was in this system as everything I have read online says that the DDC is loud but I honestly can't hear it at all.

Only cooling my CPU right now with a 360 but at idle I am only seeing about 32C after it has been on a while and after gaming for a bit on a CPU intensive game(Planet Coaster) I am only seeing it get to 43C.

Next step is adding a GPU block but I am more interested in upgrading my CPU next and luckily the EVO block will support Kaby Lake as well as Ryzen.


----------



## nrpeyton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madbrayniak*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Just put in my EK Extreme 360 kit a few weeks ago and loving the temps and the quiet performance!
> 
> One thing that really blew me away was how quiet the pump was in this system as everything I have read online says that the DDC is loud but I honestly can't hear it at all.
> 
> Only cooling my CPU right now with a 360 but at idle I am only seeing about 32C after it has been on a while and after gaming for a bit on a CPU intensive game(Planet Coaster) I am only seeing it get to 43C.
> 
> Next step is adding a GPU block but I am more interested in upgrading my CPU next and luckily the EVO block will support Kaby Lake as well as Ryzen.


Glad everything went well for you, I also got the 360 kit (performance version) then 2 months later added a GPU in.

Very pleased. The results on my CPU surpassed my expecations and the GPU block surpassed them *even further*. My GPU actually idles *AT* the water temp!

Anyway what are peoples opinions about coloured coolants? (dyes)

I'm about to order new coolant tonight and I am strongly considering going with *colour*, but I'm afraid after all the bad press *dyes* have had recently -- especially about them *'gunking up'*?

Any thoughts lads?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mayhems dyes don't gunk up at all


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It would be best to have the original invoice if you can. But, if in the future you need some new o-rings or need to replace a cracked top, you shouldn't need the invoice for this if I remember correctly.
> If you're in the States, Performance-PCS has some replacement tops.
> 
> If you're from anywhere else or if P-PCS doesn't have the one you want, you can open a ticket on our website and ask for one. We'll be able to sell you a replacement top.
> 
> Link for P-PCS : http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-cpu-blocks/shopby/brand--ek-waterblocks/block-accessory-type--top/?
> 
> Link for the support ticket : https://www.ekwb.com/customer-care/


PPCS does not have one.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> PPCS does not have one.


It's strange we can't even find it listed and out of stock... Bummer because I'm going to need another top since I've apparently stress cracked this one that I got not too long ago









I could've sworn I didn't even go that tight... I would get acetal but I just got new plexi gpu blocks







(copper at that)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It would be best to have the original invoice if you can. But, if in the future you need some new o-rings or need to replace a cracked top, you shouldn't need the invoice for this if I remember correctly.
> If you're in the States, Performance-PCS has some replacement tops.
> 
> If you're from anywhere else or if P-PCS doesn't have the one you want, you can open a ticket on our website and ask for one. We'll be able to sell you a replacement top.
> 
> Link for P-PCS : http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-cpu-blocks/shopby/brand--ek-waterblocks/block-accessory-type--top/?
> 
> Link for the support ticket : https://www.ekwb.com/customer-care/
> 
> 
> 
> PPCS does not have one.
Click to expand...

PPCS does have incoices. Go to your account info. It should be listed near or at the top depending on your last order(s) that's where mine are at and Predator 240 was my last order. Simply download and save the PDF file and upload it to EK RMA system. They'll accept it.









~Ceadder


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Continuing my story earlier up in this thread (re: leaking Supremacy EVO):

- Replacement o-ring received from Performance PCs
- Molykote 111 received from Amazon
- Waterblock reassembled with silicone grease applied liberally to the o-ring (not taking any chances here)
- Leak-testing looks good!
- Videocard that had its PCIe connector all soaked in the coolant works perfectly!!
- ...But not before I had major O SHI....!!!1 moment when I did not plug the DisplayPort cable all the way in, and got corrupted and flickering picture









So the machine is now fully armed and is quite operational!


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Continuing my story earlier up in this thread (re: leaking Supremacy EVO):
> 
> - Replacement o-ring received from Performance PCs
> - Molykote 111 received from Amazon
> - Waterblock reassembled with silicone grease applied liberally to the o-ring (not taking any chances here)
> - Leak-testing looks good!
> - Videocard that had its PCIe connector all soaked in the coolant works perfectly!!
> - ...But not before I had major O SHI....!!!1 moment when I did not plug the DisplayPort cable all the way in, and got corrupted and flickering picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the machine is now fully armed and is quite operational!


Nice! Glad it's working


----------



## hiarc

Finally got around to modding my RVE10 RGB monoblock with a digital RGBW LED strip. Even though I'll probably only be using the white LED portion for the block. Likewise sorry for the bad GIF, should've just uploaded it to Imgur leaving the 60fps goodness intact.











Spoiler: RVE10 Monoblock







Might use some of the 144/m strip I have instead of the 60/m that I used for it currently for better diffusion (I think that's what I'm trying to say). I have also already added a separate code path for reversing the RGB flow.


----------



## AllGamer

This has probably been asked before, I'm trying to figure out the correct side the soft layer should be facing (left or right).

 <--- This seems to be the logical way to do it

 <--- This way seems to fit better

 <--- I installed it as this


----------



## AllGamer

I'm a bit concerned if this will make the Jet Plate rust



I got a couple of EVO blocks, I opened both packages and it was the same problem

Only Jet Plate #3 has this cut defect on the metal plate.

The Thicker version Jet Plate #1 and #2 have clean cuts.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> This has probably been asked before, I'm trying to figure out the correct side the soft layer should be facing (left or right).
> 
> [IMGs


The last picture is correct.

TCO


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Finally got around to modding my RVE10 RGB monoblock with a digital RGBW LED strip. Even though I'll probably only be using the white LED portion for the block. Likewise sorry for the bad GIF, should've just uploaded it to Imgur leaving the 60fps goodness intact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: RVE10 Monoblock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might use some of the 144/m strip I have instead of the 60/m that I used for it currently for better diffusion (I think that's what I'm trying to say). I have also already added a separate code path for reversing the RGB flow.


That's pretty nifty. I'm considering doing a mod to try and get each zone to natively work for their own actual zone, but I don't know if it's possible really. The board uses a 5-wire design, not sure what the fifth wire is for.


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> That's pretty nifty. I'm considering doing a mod to try and get each zone to natively work for their own actual zone, but I don't know if it's possible really. The board uses a 5-wire design, not sure what the fifth wire is for.


I wouldn't know either, I would guess they are some sort of pseudo-digital RGB strips as I've never seen 5 wire strips outside of analog RGBW. Furthermore, they do seem to have the ability to be addressed individually since the rainbow effect can be a chaser type (backplate).

For the block itself however, it is a straight up analog RGB strip. You would need as many channels as zones as you would like. Hence why I just removed the strips and used digital RGBW strips controlled by an Arduino.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> I wouldn't know either, I would guess they are some sort of pseudo-digital RGB strips as I've never seen 5 wire strips outside of analog RGBW. Furthermore, they do seem to have the ability to be addressed individually since the rainbow effect can be a chaser type (backplate).
> 
> For the block itself however, it is a straight up analog RGB strip. You would need as many channels as zones as you would like. Hence why I just removed the strips and used digital RGBW strips controlled by an Arduino.


I wonder if it would be possible to transplant the old LED's from the heatsinks into the EK blocks


----------



## jura11

Add me too

Here is my

Specs:

i7-5820k with 4.5GHz OC
ASRock X99 Extreme 6
96GB DDR4 2133MHz
GTX 1080 FE with EK WB
GTX Titan X Maxwell with EK WB
Seasonic XM2 1250W etc

and

EK-KIT X360 water cooling kit includes:
- universal CPU water block: EK-Supremacy EVO (incl. LED diode, mounting- & thermal material)
- radiator: EK-CoolStream XE 360 (Triple)
- radiator fan: EK-Vardar F3-120 (1850rpm) (3pcs)
- water pump: EK-DDC 3.2 PWM Elite Edition (incl. pump holders)
- reservoir: EK-RES X3 150
- tubing: EK-DuraClear 9,5/12,7mm (3/8'' - 1/2'') (2 meters)
- compression fittings: EK-ACF Fitting 13/10mm - G1/4 Nickel (8 pcs)

Mayhem Havoc 240mm radiator
4x Phanteks PH-F120SP
8x G1/4 13/10 fittings XSPC

Aquaero 6 XT

Case is Phanteks Enthoo Primo







Thanks,Jura


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Add me too
> 
> Here is my
> 
> Specs:
> 
> i7-5820k with 4.5GHz OC
> ASRock X99 Extreme 6
> 96GB DDR4 2133MHz
> GTX 1080 FE with EK WB
> GTX Titan X Maxwell with EK WB
> Seasonic XM2 1250W etc
> 
> and
> 
> EK-KIT X360 water cooling kit includes:
> - universal CPU water block: EK-Supremacy EVO (incl. LED diode, mounting- & thermal material)
> - radiator: EK-CoolStream XE 360 (Triple)
> - radiator fan: EK-Vardar F3-120 (1850rpm) (3pcs)
> - water pump: EK-DDC 3.2 PWM Elite Edition (incl. pump holders)
> - reservoir: EK-RES X3 150
> - tubing: EK-DuraClear 9,5/12,7mm (3/8'' - 1/2'') (2 meters)
> - compression fittings: EK-ACF Fitting 13/10mm - G1/4 Nickel (8 pcs)
> 
> Mayhem Havoc 240mm radiator
> 4x Phanteks PH-F120SP
> 8x G1/4 13/10 fittings XSPC
> 
> Aquaero 6 XT
> 
> Case is Phanteks Enthoo Primo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,Jura


Very nice. How much faster is a 1080 paired with a Maxwell Titan?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Very nice. How much faster is a 1080 paired with a Maxwell Titan?


Hi there

Thanks,I use both GPU for rendering mainly in Cycles,SuperFly,IRAY or Octane and depends on SW,in some SW Maxwell Titan is faster than GTX1080,in some when renderer is optimized for Pascal then Pascal is around 1.5x times faster than Titan X

But with both GPU renders are around 1.5-2x times faster

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I wonder if it would be possible to transplant the old LED's from the heatsinks into the EK blocks


Hmm, good question. Maybe? I just removed the LED "strip" from the IO shroud and it's a small PCB. I know the backplate is a PCB with all the LEDs too. You would probably have issues if they're all similar to that since it was a rather snuggly fit using slightly wider 144/m LED strip chunks. Mostly because PCBs wouldn't have a strip's flexibility and that helped with the fit.

But, hey, that's why experimenting is fun. Maybe you'll find a way to do so with the motherboard's LEDs.


----------



## Revan654

Anyone if theirs a height difference between the MSI 980 Ti (Gaming Edition) & MSI 1080 (Gaming Edition) waterblocks?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Hmm, good question. Maybe? I just removed the LED "strip" from the IO shroud and it's a small PCB. I know the backplate is a PCB with all the LEDs too. You would probably have issues if they're all similar to that since it was a rather snuggly fit using slightly wider 144/m LED strip chunks. Mostly because PCBs wouldn't have a strip's flexibility and that helped with the fit.
> 
> But, hey, that's why experimenting is fun. Maybe you'll find a way to do so with the motherboard's LEDs.


Yeah, I hear you. Do you have any pictures of the block dissasembled? My rig is assembled and don't want to disassemble it at the moment. Not until I get a new case anyways.


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Yeah, I hear you. Do you have any pictures of the block dissasembled? My rig is assembled and don't want to disassemble it at the moment. Not until I get a new case anyways.


Not immediate, but I'll see if I can get you some sometime during the week.


----------



## zerophase

Anyone have any advice on how to get the r5e vrm and pch block's plastic standoffs to stay attached without sliding around? I tried using some thermal Grizzly, but that takes hours to dry. Gorilla glue seems like it would work, but it could also clog the threads. Are there any other good options?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Anyone have any advice on how to get the r5e vrm and pch block's plastic standoffs to stay attached without sliding around? I tried using some thermal Grizzly, but that takes hours to dry. Gorilla glue seems like it would work, but it could also clog the threads. Are there any other good options?


I'm using Locktite Blue on the fittings that screw into the motherboard VRM waterblock (EK Cross Channel). It clings to the metal fittings but doesn't leave residue on the plastic motherboard water block when I remove the fittings.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I'm using Locktite Blue on the fittings that screw into the motherboard VRM waterblock (EK Cross Channel). It clings to the metal fittings but doesn't leave residue on the plastic motherboard water block when I remove the fittings.


That actually holds the plastic spacers on strong enough?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> That actually holds the plastic spacers on strong enough?


Maybe we are talking about 2 different things. My fittings are threaded directly into the VRM block with no spacers.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Maybe we are talking about 2 different things. My fittings are threaded directly into the VRM block with no spacers.


I think Locktite might actually work for my use too. They wouldn't clog up the threads either if it'll hold the spacers.

I ended up having to order a new set of blocks for the rampage 5 extreme, and hopefully since my last block EK has changed the design of the spacers.


----------



## Reaper28

Hey guys, I don't mean to spam? or flood the thread.. but I need some help as I'm freaking out here and it does involve EK blocks... to keep this post short I created a thread with info/pics

Thanks









http://www.overclock.net/t/1621669/help-growth-inside-loop


----------



## DarthBaggins

Having an inner debate with myself, so right now I'm rocking an AC Cuplex Kryos Delrin in JAC-Temper Tantrum and have recently acquired a EK Supremacy Evo Copper with Acetal Top (new). Trying to decide if I should leave the Kryos on the CPU or swap for the EVO (already running EK Black Nickle fittings/adapters/EK D5 with Acetal top and ZMT tubing.


----------



## Mattmax

Help, I want to connect my GPU cooler with the EX-FC Link System  into my watercooling system.
But between the EK-FC Link System and the EKWB GPU cooler it is leaking! So, what can I do? I use both o-rings in the EK-FC Link an the right screw, but some drops come through the contact point.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattmax*
> 
> Help, I want to connect my GPU cooler with the EX-FC Link System  into my watercooling system.
> But between the EK-FC Link System and the EKWB GPU cooler it is leaking! So, what can I do? I use both o-rings in the EK-FC Link an the right screw, but some drops come through the contact point.


A picture of the actual installation might be a better idea.

so, you already check the O rings,

did you tight the stoppers plugs properly?

how about the tubes, are they properly secured?

did you buy the Terminal new or used?

is there any crack on the Terminal?


----------



## Mattmax

I bought the terminal new with the GPU cooler, but now is only the GPU cooler installed.
As I tried to change the watercooling loop, I recognize a leak between the cooler and the terminal. So could ist ne, that the things loose their good sitting?

getapatalked


----------



## os2wiz

I just purchased an EK Extreme X360 from Newgg.com for 299.99 . It will arrive tomorrow. It is for my upcoming Ryzen build . I am purchasing an octacore Ryzen in about 5 weeks and either the top Gigabyte x370 motherboard unless Asus gets off its ass and releases the Sabertooth x370 or the ROG Crosshair VI for Ryzen. How good is the quality of the EK Extreme water block and radiators compared to say a Predator? Also I am wondering if this kit has the new Am4 bracket enclosed. Could not get a straight definite answer from EK technical support. I previously owned a Swiftech H320 AIO which I have had for almost 3 years. I believe it would soon be time to replace the tubing and the block is a little worn. That is why I upgraded. I have never done custom loop. I am a little queasy about spills and leaks. Particularly the compression fittings. I hope they are of the highest quality and are not going to corrode. It would have been nice if the unit was pre-assembled.I am 67 now with a bad heart. i am paying my computer tech to do the total installation. He never did a custom loop, but has installed my Swiftech unit for me. Could you tell me what are the key things to do and not do in this installation to avoid headaches and damage to a new $500 cpu and a new plus $200 motherboard. How often will I have to refill the reservoir. I am installing this in a new full tower Thermaltake Core V71 case. Thanks for your help.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

My EK fittings had little chips in the threads. EK tech support said it was fine. I used them anyway but for peace of mind I applied loctite blue to the threads on the CPU and motherboard blocks.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> I just purchased an EK Extreme X360 from Newgg.com for 299.99 . It will arrive tomorrow. It is for my upcoming Ryzen build . I am purchasing an octacore Ryzen in about 5 weeks and either the top Gigabyte x370 motherboard unless Asus gets off its ass and releases the Sabertooth x370 or the ROG Crosshair VI for Ryzen. How good is the quality of the EK Extreme water block and radiators compared to say a Predator? Also I am wondering if this kit has the new Am4 bracket enclosed. Could not get a straight definite answer from EK technical support. I previously owned a Swiftech H320 AIO which I have had for almost 3 years. I believe it would soon be time to replace the tubing and the block is a little worn. That is why I upgraded. I have never done custom loop. I am a little queasy about spills and leaks. Particularly the compression fittings. I hope they are of the highest quality and are not going to corrode. It would have been nice if the unit was pre-assembled.I am 67 now with a bad heart. i am paying my computer tech to do the total installation. He never did a custom loop, but has installed my Swiftech unit for me. Could you tell me what are the key things to do and not do in this installation to avoid headaches and damage to a new $500 cpu and a new plus $200 motherboard. How often will I have to refill the reservoir. I am installing this in a new full tower Thermaltake Core V71 case. Thanks for your help.


The radiator is a thicker XE rad by EK and the fittings are as top knotch as fittings can be. Been using EK's fittings for nearly the past year with zero issues. Your tech should just flush the rad prior to install with hot tap water and then distilled to clear out anything left behind from the tap etc. It's not very different than mounting the Swiftecj setup other than being to run your tubing as you want and place you reservoir and pump where you want as well. The block should be a Supremacy EVO which is one of EK's top CPU blocks.
Currently debating on swapping to my EVO vs the Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos (which has been an amazing block too)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> I just purchased an EK Extreme X360 from Newgg.com for 299.99 . It will arrive tomorrow. It is for my upcoming Ryzen build . I am purchasing an octacore Ryzen in about 5 weeks and either the top Gigabyte x370 motherboard unless Asus gets off its ass and releases the Sabertooth x370 or the ROG Crosshair VI for Ryzen. How good is the quality of the EK Extreme water block and radiators compared to say a Predator? Also I am wondering if this kit has the new Am4 bracket enclosed. Could not get a straight definite answer from EK technical support. I previously owned a Swiftech H320 AIO which I have had for almost 3 years. I believe it would soon be time to replace the tubing and the block is a little worn. That is why I upgraded. I have never done custom loop. I am a little queasy about spills and leaks. Particularly the compression fittings. I hope they are of the highest quality and are not going to corrode. It would have been nice if the unit was pre-assembled.I am 67 now with a bad heart. i am paying my computer tech to do the total installation. He never did a custom loop, but has installed my Swiftech unit for me. Could you tell me what are the key things to do and not do in this installation to avoid headaches and damage to a new $500 cpu and a new plus $200 motherboard. How often will I have to refill the reservoir. I am installing this in a new full tower Thermaltake Core V71 case. Thanks for your help.


List of sockets are in the Specifications, but here you go Courtesy of the Egg...

Intel LGA-775
Intel LGA-1366
Intel LGA-1150/1151/1155/1156
Intel LGA-2011(-3)
AMD Sockets: 939, 754, 940
*AMD Sockets: AM2(+), AM3(+), FM1, FM2(+)*

**I stand corrected on the platform...*
AM3+ Board for Ryzen so not a new socket. AM3+ *and* AM4. So yes it should have a bracket for the AM3+ socket. If not you'll likely have to order one from EK or one of their eTailers like Performance-PCs.

iirc, Tiny Tom Logan has released an unboxing of the new Sabertooth. He's still under NDA as far as I know, so hang tough, because at least Sabertooth is coming. I'm pretty sure they will bring out the RoG platform soon afterwards. iirc Sabertooth launches before RoG line. It did when CIVF/CIVExtreme were released at any rate.






I would suggest getting your case first and seeing what the dimensions are before picking up the cooling system. However since you've already pulled the trigger on your new cooling system, you might need to keep in mind that not only length is a factor but thickness of the Radiator. Some cases are simply too shallow in the top for some radiators, since Radiators aren't a one size fits solution. Oh that it were that easy, right?









Congratulations on your first cooling loop. For the most part EK is quality. They have their hiccups like any small business competing with other small businesses competing for our money. And so long as you/your builder takes their time and are mechanically inclined, you needn't worry. Just take this time while you wait and do your research before diving in as it were. If I can do it successfully, so can you.
















~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Actually it is a new socket for Ryzen (AM4) - most current blocks do have a compatible mounting bracket, that Sabertooth should have never been released imo. Just have to make sure it has the proper mount spacing, I know my EVo came w/ a newer bracket to allow for AM4 - From EK: https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-confirms-amd-socket-am4-compatibility/


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Actually it is a new socket for Ryzen (AM4) - most current blocks do have a compatible mounting bracket, that Sabertooth should have never been released imo. Just have to make sure it has the proper mount spacing, I know my EVo came w/ a newer bracket to allow for AM4 - From EK: https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-confirms-amd-socket-am4-compatibility/


That's the one they've gone with though. So if Sabertooth then it's AM3+, right?









I shoulda knowed that ASUS would update the AM3+ socket. They did the BIOS fix for the AM3 socket back when FX was due to launch.









Did not realize that AM4 was due to launch however. Thank you DB for the correction. It's been so long since we've had a socket change that I made an azz of u an me-tion.
















~Ceadder


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's the one they've gone with though. So if Sabertooth then it's AM3+, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shoulda knowed that ASUS would update the AM3+ socket. They did the BIOS fix for the AM3 socket back when FX was due to launch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did not realize that AM4 was due to launch however. Thank you DB for the correction. It's been so long since we've had a socket change that I made an azz of u an me-tion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The AM4 socket has been hot news for six or so months, with word of it being something along the lines of a rebirth for AMD with their Ryzen platform supposedly performing on par with an i7-6900k in tests. I say supposedly, because so far only one benchmark has been touted and shown off by AMD - a rendering one.

New socket also has new chipsets... X370 being the main one.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's the one they've gone with though. So if Sabertooth then it's AM3+, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shoulda knowed that ASUS would update the AM3+ socket. They did the BIOS fix for the AM3 socket back when FX was due to launch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did not realize that AM4 was due to launch however. Thank you DB for the correction. It's been so long since we've had a socket change that I made an azz of u an me-tion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The AM4 socket has been hot news for six or so months, with word of it being something along the lines of a rebirth for AMD with their Ryzen platform supposedly performing on par with an i7-6900k in tests. I say supposedly, because so far only one benchmark has been touted and shown off by AMD - a rendering one.
> 
> New socket also has new chipsets... X370 being the main one.
Click to expand...

Hadn't even paid attention tbh.









I did note that the new board was getting DDR4 and M.2 however.









Hopefully Ryzen will be more than what FX was on launch day. Can't say I was overly happy with the heat issues of FX when I got my hands on one. If a CPU cannot stand up to 100% usage without going over shutdown temp, can't say I'm enthused about it. Of course Intel's offerings haven't been much better until delidding either. But at least they're allowing for Delid...

...I cannot believe I just said that. 10 years ago, I would have slapped my future self if he came to me and told me Intel would warranty an altered chip. An I woulda told him to snap out of it.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## Blackops_2

Disregard that.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I do plan on getting my hands on the new Ryzen CPU this year so Christine gets a good upgrade from her Phenom II x 6 1055t which has been chugging along like a champ in the crappy board I had laying around


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I do plan on getting my hands on the new Ryzen CPU this year so Christine gets a good upgrade from her Phenom II x 6 1055t which has been chugging along like a champ in the crappy board I had laying around


Haha, my Mother got my 1055t and it's been chugging along nicely. Although it's an RMA chip.









I still have my 1100T as well. Although am considering an upgrade to a new Platform. Just don't know whether I will go Intel(have an i7-4790 Dell XPS 8700 that I surf on currently) or whether to stay AMD since Intel chips seem to need to be delidded. But at least Intel is backing their product warranties.









So am considering selling my CIVF platform(board, CPU, MB Block) to fund the process. Decisions, decisions.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wally West

Hey, can someone measure me the height of this? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-holder-ddc-spider-120mm-fan


----------



## mrkambo

It seems ive never posted my rig in here


----------



## looniam

whoa! is that that new fancy wireless power?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> whoa! is that that new fancy wireless power?


we wish...
if only Tesla were still alive.

the PSU is either hiding beneath or behind, there a lot of cases with designs that hides the PSU


----------



## looniam

naw, i was just "mentioning" no cables yet, which i am sure will get impeccably managed.









i love the look of parallel tubes. loops.


----------



## Sazexa

Is there anything inside EK rads that I should be concerned about regarding heat? High heat, like 200°C or ~350°F.

I'm considering doing a powder coat on the exterior parts of the radiator, without really disassembling them. So the entire rad would be in a heated curing oven for a bit.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes. The soldered joints. But fear not, the current generation of EK rads can be disassembled so the housing can be powder coated without issue. Just make sure to plug every hole prior to application and bake on.









~Ceadder


----------



## mrkambo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> whoa! is that that new fancy wireless power?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> we wish...
> if only Tesla were still alive.
> 
> the PSU is either hiding beneath or behind, there a lot of cases with designs that hides the PSU


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> naw, i was just "mentioning" no cables yet, which i am sure will get impeccably managed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i love the look of parallel tubes. loops.


The PSU is round the back, just sitting above the pedestal. Ill be honest, the system has been running for about 3 months with stock cables and just for the sake convenience, i never pushed for them to be sleeved, but the rig is currently away having exact length cables made and sleeved, also the fans are getting changed, and maybe if i can get one a 6900K with a decent IMC


----------



## Blackops_2

Anyone know where to fine a Clear/clean acrylic replacement top for a Supremacy block?


----------



## Ceadderman

Performance-PCs should have an EVO top.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Performance-PCs should have an EVO top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I spent some time looking for a replacement top, couldn't find any except a black acetal, not plexi









TCO


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Performance-PCs should have an EVO top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I guess them and Frozen CPU are out. I'll email them. There is also the "upgrade" kit. To turn the supremacy to the EVO, but that's sold out everywhere except EK. What's the difference between the EVO and supremacy? Mounting options? New jet? They look identical to me.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I spent some time looking for a replacement top, couldn't find any except a black acetal, not plexi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


They have a plexi right now but it's the MX which isn't clean, reminds me of the old CSQ stuff. Frozen CPU has green clean acetal and Blue but not clear.


----------



## Ceadderman

Both are Supremacy. There are two versions however. The MX and the EVO. MX is a pressed plastic top and EVO is a solid acrylic top. If you get the Black top the EVO is a solid Acetal and MX is black pressed plastic. Either one will work but I recommend spending a little more and going with the EVO tops over the MX version.









:Edit: Also the MX tops are a touch shallower in depth compared to the EVO. I have both on hand. They both fit the same mounting hardware and pattern. Although the cooling plate on the MX is a touch shallower as well.









Trust me, any replacement should be EVO and not MX. MX are pressed plastic and the Acrylic EVO are much sturdier. Just tighten it to snug. Otherwise it can be cracked with too much pressure.









~Ceadder


----------



## Blackops_2

I still can't figure out how i cracked my clean CSQ block. It must've happened when i was snatching some tubing loose today. I never overtightened anything. The outlet port is fine. They were hardly noticeable but either way i plan on replacing it, don't want to take any chances. Looking for another clean acrylic top. I do have a bitspower summit block ready to go but that's for the future build which was originally intended for Green Envy.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Myself and another member were just looking for some plexi tops as we've both cracked ours too. Ppcs used to have them but I can't find them in stock anywhere either


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys. I'm considering switching my DDC pump for a D5, since I heard they're quieter. Will it have enough pressure for my planned loop? I'll be paralleling two GPU's and a motherboard monoblock, and using PE 360 radiators.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm considering switching my DDC pump for a D5, since I heard they're quieter. Will it have enough pressure for my planned loop? I'll be paralleling two GPU's and a motherboard monoblock, and using PE 360 radiators.


Hi there

My EK DDC pump is very quiet and I don't hear pump at all, my pump is at pump bracket at back of the case

Not sure how D5 is quiet, never run that pump and can't comment on how D5 is loud or quiet

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Blackops_2

I guess it depends on your definition of quiet. It's so subjective. I've ran air nearly my entire life and even with my AIO the fans were loud as hell. So my custom loop with SP120s and an EK D5 is ultra quiet to me.

I'll be running two GPUs in parallel, a CPU block, and 120x6 worth of rads with that single pump, probably up the speed to 5. I think it should handle it though.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Two EK D5 pumps running at full speed are as loud as 8 140mm case fans running at 900rpm. If i set my fans to 1000rpm, I can still hear the pumps, but the fan wind is slightly louder.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> My EK DDC pump is very quiet and I don't hear pump at all, my pump is at pump bracket at back of the case
> 
> Not sure how D5 is quiet, never run that pump and can't comment on how D5 is loud or quiet
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


I have a DDC. It's not necessarily loud, but, it has a pitch/tone I find a little annoying.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm considering switching my DDC pump for a D5, since I heard they're quieter. Will it have enough pressure for my planned loop? I'll be paralleling two GPU's and a motherboard monoblock, and using PE 360 radiators.


Im running a PE-360 + PE-240 + 2 x GPU blocks +plus VRM block + Supremacy EVO with 1x D5 PWM at 50% duty cycle with no issues, your setup should be fine


----------



## Ceadderman

Have had both. TBH, DDC really aren't that loud. My RAID0 array was louder than my dual DDC setup at max.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah DDC's really aren't that loud at all.


----------



## Ceadderman

The main issue with DDC is heat. D5 are cooled by the coolant. DDC are air ooled and require a heatsink or to be placed in a high airflow environment to cool the underside of them. I didn't use heatsinks on mine because my 230mm fan (2x1TB RAID0 cooling provider) pushed enough cool air over them. I had them on an FC3 at max and my Drives were louder and my 230 slightly louder still. With the doors on my system I could hear the drives in seek mode, since my system typically sits on my desk and that won't change anytime soon sine my toddler loves tech.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have had both. TBH, DDC really aren't that loud. My RAID0 array was louder than my dual DDC setup at max.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah DDC's really aren't that loud at all.


It's been the loudest component of my system for a while now. And that's including it being in two different cases. My HDD is just about as loud, but, it doesn't run constantly.

Maybe I'll just suck it up and keep it haha


----------



## stocksux

Looking to setup a new rig. Will have two loops. Question is, do you guys think an EKEB 560mm rad be enough to cool a single Titan x pascal that's overclocked? Also have the space to add a 280mm in the gpu loop if necessary. Would the 280 be needed or are we in diminishing returns after the 560? Thanks for the help in advance.


----------



## Ceadderman

560 is more than enough to cool a single GPU. Even one that's OC'ed.

Rule of thumb, is a single 120 is enough to cool one chip. Be it CPU/GPU. Totaling 120(x)+120=y. y being the actual cooling surface necessary to cool your chips.

Since I am on mobile and cannot see your complete rig I can only assume that a single 560 is more than ample cooling surface for your proposed loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 560 is more than enough to cool a single GPU. Even one that's OC'ed.
> 
> Rule of thumb, is a single 120 is enough to cool one chip. Be it CPU/GPU. Totaling 120(x)+120=y. y being the actual cooling surface necessary to cool your chips.
> 
> Since I am on mobile and cannot see your complete rig I can only assume that a single 560 is more than ample cooling surface for your proposed loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


A 120 and hell even a 240 for a cpu will get you slightly and i do mean SLIGHTLY better temps then a high end air cooler. I have a 360 and a 240 with a 4690k at 1.21v and an r9 390 (heat machine) and my CPU temps are 47°C while gaming (was at 54°C at 1.088 on air on a Noctua so not crazy temp drops) but the best is for the GPU. I went from 74°C to 39°C while having 12 fans total and still makes less noise.


----------



## Ceadderman

There was no reference to air cooling from what I read. Only if a 560 Rad was enough to cool a TitanX pascal. A 560 is overkill for a Pascal since the coldest temp can never get below ambient without some form of cooling. Be it an AC or a water chiller added to the loop.









But should one put their system nearest to their AC or open window during winter temp deferential between WC'ing and AC'ing should widen considerably more since there is more cooling surface to work with than that of your typical air cooler.









~Ceadder


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> There was no reference to air cooling from what I read. Only if a 560 Rad was enough to cool a TitanX pascal. A 560 is overkill for a Pascal since the coldest temp can never get below ambient without some form of cooling. Be it an AC or a water chiller added to the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But should one put their system nearest to their AC or open window during winter temp deferential between WC'ing and AC'ing should widen considerably more since there is more cooling surface to work with than that of your typical air cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I know was just making a reference, a 240-360 are plenty for an r9 390 with a cpu on top of it, a 560 if its gpu only should be plenty. And if your case supports it why not? Can run more fans at lower speeds for same temps and lower noise. Its why i went with a 240-360 instead of a single 360 and my temps are AMAZING.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ahhh okay. Was a touch cornfoozed. Apologies.









~Ceadder


----------



## Buska103

Can anyone tell me what this is? Obviously it's an EK Thermosphere, but the outlets are at the end of the card (horizontally) rather than the vertical configuration I always see them sold as.



I ask because I have an EK Thermosphere... and unfortunately it seems like all the tempting new GPUs have an extended PCB... which is obviously an issue for my Thermosphere, as you get the following (blocked ports):


Can I buy the "end" someone and screw it on my Thermosphere (*crosses fingers, please be cheap*)?























Thanks guys!


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

I believe it's a terminal direct
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-direct


----------



## stocksux

Thank you guys for the replies to my cooling a Titan X Pascal question. I appreciate your time me advice.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103*
> 
> Can anyone tell me what this is? Obviously it's an EK Thermosphere, but the outlets are at the end of the card (horizontally) rather than the vertical configuration I always see them sold as.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ask because I have an EK Thermosphere... and unfortunately it seems like all the tempting new GPUs have an extended PCB... which is obviously an issue for my Thermosphere, as you get the following (blocked ports):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I buy the "end" someone and screw it on my Thermosphere (*crosses fingers, please be cheap*)?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks guys!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> I believe it's a terminal direct
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-direct


i believe you are correct:
https://www.ekwb.com/news/new-ek-fc-terminals-are-now-available/
Quote:


> Both new terminals are compatible with every EK Full-Cover water block (with the exception of CSQ water blocks) and EK Thermosphere water block.


had i known . . . . got the vga supremacy just because of the card height issue.

oh well.


----------



## nrpeyton

I have an EK, D5 (1500 L/hr + 3.9m head).

Even at 100% it makes no noise at all. Like it isn't even there.


----------



## IchiRuki

Time to get some serious cooling done with this beauty...


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I have a DDC. It's not necessarily loud, but, it has a pitch/tone I find a little annoying.


Hi there

That's unfortunate yours DDC have pitch/tone, I'm running loop right now for about 2 weeks or less and no issues at all with pump and no noise and running mostly pump at full speed at 45xxRPM

Hope D5 will be quieter for you there

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## emsj86

I've had a ddc since day 1. I don't get the whole it's loud. Usually what you are hearing is the vibration on the case or mount. I don't hear mine at all even at full tilt


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I've had a ddc since day 1. I don't get the whole it's loud. Usually what you are hearing is the vibration on the case or mount. I don't hear mine at all even at full tilt


Its because audio is SO personal i find people asking about "how things sound" unbelievably pointless.

For example, i have a dozen fans (1rad in push/pull and one in push) with 3 intakes fans. They are all at 1100-1200rpm for me and i have pitch perfect hearing and the sound doesnt bother me at all. My cousin put his ear next to it and said it was dead silent lol, there goes to show you how different some people are, for me its not dead silent but for some it might be.

I will say this, ive had my D5 at max speed and its completely inaudible. In fact because of my restrictive gpu block i run it at about 75% speed at all times and i don't hear it. If i put my hand on the case i feel the tiniest vibration but audio wise for the pump NADA.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103*
> 
> Can anyone tell me what this is? Obviously it's an EK Thermosphere, but the outlets are at the end of the card (horizontally) rather than the vertical configuration I always see them sold as.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ask because I have an EK Thermosphere... and unfortunately it seems like all the tempting new GPUs have an extended PCB... which is obviously an issue for my Thermosphere, as you get the following (blocked ports):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I buy the "end" someone and screw it on my Thermosphere (*crosses fingers, please be cheap*)?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks guys!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> I believe it's a terminal direct
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-direct


Bitemarks is correct. The first picture feature an EK-Thermosphere with a terminal direct.


----------



## mrgnex

I have bought a Gigabyte 980Ti Windforce 3 OC and want to slap a waterblock on that sucker. I was wondering if I would be able to use the stock backplate since it looks really cool. There are 4 screws which screw in from the "front" side of the PCB and two of these srews are blocking the block.




This card will never see it's air cooler ever again and I am okay with modding something.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Does anyone have dimensions for the DUAL D5 ExTop Revo with pumps and feet installed? For sake of reference lets assume the feet are down and the inlet up = tall. D5 Pump Sticker to Sticker wide. And the Diameter of the outside radious = deep


----------



## Mattmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> OK, I see what you mean and yes, when assembled the side ports for multi top and reservoir bottom do face the same direction.
> 
> I think that's what you're asking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4846_zpsnxfwcebt.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4847_zpsefw4aprq.jpg.html


do they top and bottom cover have the same height?


----------



## Reaper28

Is possible plasticizer contamination covered under EK warranty? lol.. also looking for EK's recommendation for removing it from the blocks, soap and water haven't worked

Also has anybody had problems with staining from Mayhem's red with EK plexi blocks (Need to switch coolant, planning on possible Mayhem's red, and kill coil)


----------



## Ceadderman

@Mattmax... The bottom is short between 1 and 3mm that of the top.









I don't have a metric rule on hand but that's what I'm seeing with an SAE tape.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mattmax

Thanks...


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Is possible plasticizer contamination covered under EK warranty? lol.. also looking for EK's recommendation for removing it from the blocks, soap and water haven't worked
> 
> Also has anybody had problems with staining from Mayhem's red with EK plexi blocks (Need to switch coolant, planning on possible Mayhem's red, and kill coil)


Maybe check this out. I presume it works the same with nickel.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Is possible plasticizer contamination covered under EK warranty? lol.. also looking for EK's recommendation for removing it from the blocks, soap and water haven't worked
> 
> Also has anybody had problems with staining from Mayhem's red with EK plexi blocks (Need to switch coolant, planning on possible Mayhem's red, and kill coil)
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe check this out. I presume it works the same with nickel.
Click to expand...

Heck no. That stuff is caustic and will damage the Nickel plate. Lemon juice is less caustic than that stuff.









~Ceadder


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Maybe check this out. I presume it works the same with nickel.


I'm running out of options and willing to take anybody's/everybody's suggestions. I prefer not to pay another $400 for replacement blocks and possibly another $300 in fittings. I'm getting to the point where I might try CLR lol. From what I can tell it's definitely not calcium buildup like others have suggested.

For anybody wanting pics check here to see what I'm dealing with.



http://imgur.com/nwkpT


http://www.overclock.net/t/1621669/help-growth-inside-loop


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Heck no. That stuff is caustic and will damage the Nickel plate. Lemon juice is less caustic than that stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Whoops sorry. Don't want @Reaper28 to damage his block of course. I cleaned oxidation from my brothers block with Copper Polish...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Heck no. That stuff is caustic and will damage the Nickel plate. Lemon juice is less caustic than that stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whoops sorry. Don't want @Reaper28 to damage his block of course. I cleaned oxidation from my brothers block with Copper Polish...
Click to expand...

I use NevrDull for my bright work. Sadly you can't get a green pad in the channels of the CPU block otherwise I woulda suggested it. We used it for our boat props when I was in the Military. You simply haze the blade with a wet coat of polish and using a green pad scrub the surface in circular motion. No amount of barnacle is gonna stand up to that.







lol

I'm relatively sure that it would work with plasticizer too. But that's not on the exterior of the cooling plates in this instance.









~Ceadder


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I use NevrDull for my bright work. Sadly you can't get a green pad in the channels of the CPU block otherwise I woulda suggested it. We used it for our boat props when I was in the Military. You simply haze the blade with a wet coat of polish and using a green pad scrub the surface in circular motion. No amount of barnacle is gonna stand up to that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> I'm relatively sure that it would work with plasticizer too. But that's not on the exterior of the cooling plates in this instance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Maybe if I decide to polish my plexi on the next blocks lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I use NevrDull for my bright work. Sadly you can't get a green pad in the channels of the CPU block otherwise I woulda suggested it. We used it for our boat props when I was in the Military. You simply haze the blade with a wet coat of polish and using a green pad scrub the surface in circular motion. No amount of barnacle is gonna stand up to that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> I'm relatively sure that it would work with plasticizer too. But that's not on the exterior of the cooling plates in this instance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe if I decide to polish my plexi on the next blocks lol
Click to expand...

If you have an EVO or an MX you don't have to replace the block in entirety. I'm looking at PPCs and they sell the Nickel portion for $28. Just something to think about if you can't get that crappy Pthalate out of it.









~Ceadder


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> I have bought a Gigabyte 980Ti Windforce 3 OC and want to slap a waterblock on that sucker. I was wondering if I would be able to use the stock backplate since it looks really cool. There are 4 screws which screw in from the "front" side of the PCB and two of these srews are blocking the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This card will never see it's air cooler ever again and I am okay with modding something.


Anybody?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Maybe if I decide to polish my plexi on the next blocks lol


Polished plexi looks sexy!


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you have an EVO or an MX you don't have to replace the block in entirety. I'm looking at PPCs and they sell the Nickel portion for $28. Just something to think about if you can't get that crappy Pthalate out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hmm yeah I have the Evo, never noticed that on their site. Too bad you can't buy the nickel part of the 980 blocks lol. Can't seem to find PT nuke anywhere either. Maybe I'll just run a coil like before I had this issue

@mrgnex, if it lines up just make sure you use short threaded screws and don't touch the PCB.. the GPU blocks just screw into the 4 main holes around it


----------



## Chi3fy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Anybody?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Polished plexi looks sexy!


I have one and yes you can...However it looks terrible. The original will be an extra 25mm longer then the PCB/WB as it it covered heat pipes on the air cooled setup. You could trim it back though...


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Hmm yeah I have the Evo, never noticed that on their site. Too bad you can't buy the nickel part of the 980 blocks lol. Can't seem to find PT nuke anywhere either. Maybe I'll just run a coil like before I had this issue
> 
> @mrgnex, if it lines up just make sure you use short threaded screws and don't touch the PCB.. the GPU blocks just screw into the 4 main holes around it


Thank you for your reply. I am trying to understand what you mean. I mean, of course it lines up. There are only 9 holes in the cards and both the backplate and the block use them. The issue that I am having is that the block screws in from the back but the 4 highlighted screws screw in from the front essentially blocking the screws that need to go into the block..[quote name="Chi3fy"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chi3fy*
> 
> I have one and yes you can...However it looks terrible. The original will be an extra 25mm longer then the PCB/WB as it it covered heat pipes on the air cooled setup. You could trim it back though...


I have the WF3 edition, not the G1 gaming so it doesn't extend beyond the PCB. How did you make yours work?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Thank you for your reply. I am trying to understand what you mean. I mean, of course it lines up. There are only 9 holes in the cards and both the backplate and the block use them. The issue that I am having is that the block screws in from the back but the 4 highlighted screws screw in from the front essentially blocking the screws that need to go into the block..
> I have the WF3 edition, not the G1 gaming so it doesn't extend beyond the PCB. How did you make yours work?


If that's the way it lines up then you really only have two options, longer screws to pass through the block as the ones that came with it won't go through or only using two screws on the plate one on each end so it's secure enough. Obviously you will want the block to me more secure than the plate


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> If that's the way it lines up then you really only have two options, longer screws to pass through the block as the ones that came with it won't go through or only using two screws on the plate one on each end so it's secure enough. Obviously you will want the block to me more secure than the plate


You mean screws that go through the backplate and screw into the block? That means the block has got to have a smaller thread than those 4 screws. Maybe I have to drill the standoffs on the backplate out..


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> You mean screws that go through the backplate and screw into the block? That means the block has got to have a smaller thread than those 4 screws. *Maybe I have to drill the standoffs on the backplate out.*.


that would throw out any chance of an RMA.

have you tried the block's screws through the backplate? (sorry if i missed that) i only saw:
Quote:


> The issue that I am having is that the block screws in from the back but the 4 highlighted screws screw in from the front essentially blocking the screws that need to go into the block..


which tells me the BLOCK'S screws go in the other way, not if they thread through the backplate.

you never know, you can get lucky and the distance between the backplate and block (thickness of the pcb and whatnot) may make it possible that the screw will still tighten the block to the card (both sets of threads line up).
now this is assuming the backplate is ~same thickness as the poly washers. if so, why use the washers since the blackplack worked fine?

if it doesn't line up; though i doubt you can find any screws that aren't threaded all the way - could get lucky. or look at removing the threads nearest to the head - so that it is "free spinning" at the back plate as you it screws into the block.

hope that didn't all sound as crazy as i think it might.


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> that would throw out any chance of an RMA.
> 
> have you tried the block's screws through the backplate? (sorry if i missed that) i only saw:
> which tells me the BLOCK'S screws go in the other way, not if they thread through the backplate.
> 
> you never know, you can get lucky and the distance between the backplate and block (thickness of the pcb and whatnot) may make it possible that the screw will still tighten the block to the card (both sets of threads line up).
> now this is assuming the backplate is ~same thickness as the poly washers. if so, why use the washers since the blackplack worked fine?
> 
> if it doesn't line up; though i doubt you can find any screws that aren't threaded all the way - could get lucky. or look at removing the threads nearest to the head - so that it is "free spinning" at the back plate as you it screws into the block.
> 
> hope that didn't all sound as crazy as i think it might.


I'll try that when it arrives, I just ordered the block. Thank you for your help. Will keep you updated.


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

EK predator EOL now?

definitely needs a redesign with that leaking problem / pump failure.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunnzAkimbo*
> 
> EK predator EOL now?
> 
> definitely needs a redesign with that leaking problem / pump failure.


It will be replaced by the EK-MLC series.


----------



## madweazl

Still need to make a few changes and tidy things up but it's getting there.

EK monobock, GPU, bayres/pump, and HDC fittings.

__
https://flic.kr/p/QWMTcS


----------



## rockamockafon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Hey, can someone measure me the height of this? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-holder-ddc-spider-120mm-fan


I measured 12mm, you can always email EK and ask.


----------



## Blackops_2

Any ideas where i can get an EVO insert, pin, and jet? Or can i use the old supremacy jet plates for the EVO? I got a clear plexi top to replace the one i somehow cracked on my supremacy, and it's the EVO. I didn't realize they weren't interchangeable.

*EDIT*

Found em at Ppcs


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Any ideas where i can get an EVO insert, pin, and jet? Or can i use the old supremacy jet plates for the EVO? I got a clear plexi top to replace the one i somehow cracked on my supremacy, and it's the EVO. I didn't realize they weren't interchangeable.
> 
> *EDIT*
> 
> Found em at Ppcs


You can use the MX insert and plate just fine. AfaIk they are interchangeable. I just added an EVO base to an MX with no issues other than the gasket being difficult to insert for a touch. But once I got it into the mounting bracket the MX top fit just fine. Same with the EVO I transferred the MX base to.









~Ceadder


----------



## Reaper28

Does anybody know if I buy anything from the EK webstore if I will get hit with customs/import charges? I'm in Canada obviously


----------



## DarthBaggins

Probably will


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It will be replaced by the EK-MLC series.


Is there an announcement for this kind of product somewhere? Colour me curious.


----------



## RadActiveLobstr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Is there an announcement for this kind of product somewhere? Colour me curious.


This is basically all we know about it which isn't much.

It's a 'Q2 product so that's April at the earliest but we'll probably see/hear about them before that.


----------



## RadActiveLobstr

Unintentional double post!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well figured out my flow issues, my Cuplex Kryos Delrin block's channels were clogged up so looks like I'll be flushing my loop out to get the rest of the crap out. Also thought I'd try out a Supremacy EVO block too.


----------



## Reaper28

Is anybody else using EK Evo with Mayhem's dye? (aside from the mod^) I finally might buy some tomorrow..


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RadActiveLobstr*
> 
> This is basically all we know about it which isn't much.
> 
> It's a 'Q2 product so that's April at the earliest but we'll probably see/hear about them before that.


Here's hoping they listened to what so many were asking about with the Predator series - a universal GPU option, and most importantly, the option for more than one radiator to be pre-filled.

Oh, and hopefully the leak gremlins that struck on a semi-regular basis with the Predator have been chased out ^_^


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Does anybody know if I buy anything from the EK webstore if I will get hit with customs/import charges? I'm in Canada obviously


Yes, DHL will charge you some duties.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Is there an announcement for this kind of product somewhere? Colour me curious.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RadActiveLobstr*
> 
> This is basically all we know about it which isn't much.
> 
> It's a 'Q2 product so that's April at the earliest but we'll probably see/hear about them before that.


This ^^


----------



## nikuk

Got my first loop up. Pretty damned happy for the most part. Absolutely destroys my dual AIO setup.


----------



## Jyve

I have a quick question. I have an ek predator 240 and expanded it with an ek xres 3 100 reservoir. I'm going to be removing the predator and going full custom loop.

Can I take the bottom multi port cap off the xres 100 and use it as a top on my new Revo d5 140 combo?


----------



## madweazl

Spoiler: Dbay Res MX





__
https://flic.kr/p/RESaSh


----------



## spddmn24

I have an ek-L360. Would I gain any performance by swapping out the 6w pump to an 18 watt one? And would it be a straight forward swap?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spddmn24*
> 
> I have an ek-L360. Would I gain any performance by swapping out the 6w pump to an 18 watt one? And would it be a straight forward swap?


Pretty straight forward swap. A pump is a pump. Not sure what kind of cooling gains you'd get from it though. Depends on what you're cooling as we as # and sizes of radiators. Any angled fittings?


----------



## spddmn24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Pretty straight forward swap. A pump is a pump. Not sure what kind of cooling gains you'd get from it though. Depends on what you're cooling as we as # and sizes of radiators. Any angled fittings?


Just the standard kit, pe360 radiator, 10/16mm hose, straight compression fittings, EK-Supremacy MX block.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spddmn24*
> 
> Just the standard kit, pe360 radiator, 10/16mm hose, straight compression fittings, EK-Supremacy MX block.


I can't see any reason to upgrade that pump. You'll see no gains in cooling performance.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spddmn24*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Pretty straight forward swap. A pump is a pump. Not sure what kind of cooling gains you'd get from it though. Depends on what you're cooling as we as # and sizes of radiators. Any angled fittings?
> 
> 
> 
> Just the standard kit, pe360 radiator, 10/16mm hose, straight compression fittings, EK-Supremacy MX block.
Click to expand...

I doubt you're going to see much of a performance gain with with that setup. But it can't hurt to swap out for the better unit.









~Ceadder


----------



## spddmn24

What's the point when it starts hurting you cooling wise? I have the ddc 3.1 mx


----------



## emsj86

If you want less noise from the pump yes but performance won't change if not by so little


----------



## nikuk

I've been wondering the exact same thing about the 3.1 MX, though I have more hardware in the loop... (2) PE360s, a mono block, a full cover GPU block, (2) 90 fittings, (2) 45 fittings, and about 8 feet of 10/16 tubing. Heavily OC'd on everything.

... and yet while running a steady benchmark on BOTH the CPU & GPU concurrently My water temp is holding a 9C delta. Either component runs about 2C higher than they do under individual stress tests.

I am still probably going to go to a D5 for the noise aspect alone, but I think that the 3.1MX can handle daily work & gaming.

i7 7700 @ 5.0ghz | GTX 1080 @ 2.2ghz.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I have a quick question. I have an ek predator 240 and expanded it with an ek xres 3 100 reservoir. I'm going to be removing the predator and going full custom loop.
> 
> Can I take the bottom multi port cap off the xres 100 and use it as a top on my new Revo d5 140 combo?


Yes, you could use it as a top for your combo. You just won't be able to put an internal tube like you can on a normal multiport top.


----------



## kidcapp

@Akira749 are there any plans to release an RGB monoblock that is compatible with the ASUS Z270 Apex motherboard?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidcapp*
> 
> @Akira749 are there any plans to release an RGB monoblock that is compatible with the ASUS Z270 Apex motherboard?


A monoblock for a board that's designed and targeted specifically at overclockers? Intriguing, but most of the target audience of that board will be subzero overclockers...


----------



## geriatricpollywog

For luxury overclocking, Maximus IX Extreme.


----------



## nikuk

Follow up - response from EK.

Thank you for contacting us.
In the attached image bellow, you can see the characteristics for the EK-XRES 100 DDC MX 3.1 PWM:

Yes, there will be some benefit if you replace it with D5 like for example. your loop flow would be doubled from what you get with DDC MX 3.1 PWM.

Best regards, Ales
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nikuk*
> 
> I've been wondering the exact same thing about the 3.1 MX, though I have more hardware in the loop... (2) PE360s, a mono block, a full cover GPU block, (2) 90 fittings, (2) 45 fittings, and about 8 feet of 10/16 tubing. Heavily OC'd on everything.
> 
> ... and yet while running a steady benchmark on BOTH the CPU & GPU concurrently My water temp is holding a 9C delta. Either component runs about 2C higher than they do under individual stress tests.
> 
> I am still probably going to go to a D5 for the noise aspect alone, but I think that the 3.1MX can handle daily work & gaming.
> 
> i7 7700 @ 5.0ghz | GTX 1080 @ 2.2ghz.


----------



## skingun

What's the flow rate difference between dual d5 xtop and dual d5 csq?

@fast_fate has put together an excellent review for the csq but I can't find any comparable date for the xtop.


----------



## war4peace

Hi everyone,

I have decided to switch gears on my rig and do a massive upgrade.
My current rig consists of an Asus Maximus Hero VII with a 4690K overclocked at 4.2 Ghz with no OV, Noctua NH-D14 cooler, 16 GB DDR3, an EVGA GTX 1080 FTW and a bunch of SSDs and HDDs, all in a fractal Design Define S case.

I'm changing platform to X99, bought a 6800K, an ASUS X99 A II, 2x16 GB Corsair Vengeance LPX Black @3000 Mhz and as cooling I bought an EK-KIT X360. Still waiting for the kit to arrive, and in the meantime I have some questions.

First off, I saw EKWB offering a monoblock for the motherboard, namely this one right here. Would it make sense to order that one as well or would it just be a waste? My case doesn't have a window, I don't want a window and not looking to showcase my rig. All I'm interested in is for my rig to be as quiet as possible.

Liquid: I'm currently going for the EKWB's own "clear" premix liquid, already ordered and got it. Is this good enough? Should I be looking at something else?

GPU cooling: should I consider cooling my GPU using the same loop? I can order the GPU waterblock from EKWB, but I also would like to pair that with a single 140mm radiator.

There's one limitation that needs to be taken into consideration: I can't install any radiators on the top of my case, although there's room for that, because I have two small kids (5 and 3) and they do have physical access to the machine while I'm at work. If I open up the Modu-Vents at the top of the case, they will find a way to put something into the case or generally mess with the radiators and whatnot. So the 360mm rad which comes with the kit will be front-mounted, and that leaves only the back of the case open for an 140mm rad.

So I envisioned the setup as follows:
Setup 1: - Pump-->CPU WB-->360mm rad-->reservoir-->pump

With GPU waterblock added, the setup changes to:
Setup 2: - Pump-->GPU WB-->140mm rad-->CPU WB-->360mm rad-->reservoir-->pump

Other questions:

1. Would Setup 1 suffice, considering I sometimes render, encode and compress video for a few hours straight?
2. What's the minimum noise level i can pull out using this setup? I know the EK-Vardar F3-120 fans are a bit on the noisy side. Should I replace them with something else, and in this case, with what? I would like to have as much control as possible while switching profiles between idle and full throttle.
3. While system is idle or doing light load such as watching videos, browsing, etc., would it be a good idea to turn the fans off and pump speed to minimum? I'm hoping the radiator would be able to take care of the idle CPU heat passively.

Thanks for reading my wall of text. Also if I overlooked something please feel free to let me know.


----------



## Sazexa

EDIT: Wrong thread lol


----------



## FXformat

Some EK goodies, thinking about adding another rad and run 2 parallel lines, separating the GPU and CPU blocks.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Do love the HydroCopper blocks, thinking about snagging one if I pickup a 1070SC black edition


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Do love the HydroCopper blocks, thinking about snagging one if I pickup a 1070SC black edition


I got a good deal on mine, $350 for a rather new 980Ti Hydro Copper with 2.5 years left on warranty, can't beat that. I was going to get another 1070 and slap a block on it, but that was going to cost $550 together, for similar performance, so no brainer there.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I got a good deal on mine, $350 for a rather new 980Ti Hydro Copper with 2.5 years left on warranty, can't beat that. I was going to get another 1070 and slap a block on it, but that was going to cost $550 together, for similar performance, so no brainer there.


I got a similar deal on an EVGA 980 to with EK block, back plate, and stock cooler for $350. Since I'm still gaming at 1080 I figure I'll snag another one in a few months and be set for a while.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah I would jump on a 980Ti HydroCopper if it was being sold at a better price than a 1070. I have a couple cards I'll be offloading too ( 970 and a 960). Hoping by the time my returns come in there might be further mention on what AMD will drop with Vega price wise.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah I would jump on a 980Ti HydroCopper if it was being sold at a better price than a 1070. I have a couple cards I'll be offloading too ( 970 and a 960). Hoping by the time my returns come in there might be further mention on what AMD will drop with Vega price wise.


I bought mine on ebay, it was 370 and then i had 8% ebay cashback so it made this a little less than $350. I see some on there going for high 3's as well, make offers on some of them. It's a fine card, ive had a 1070 before and they're both neck to neck, only down side is the 980ti runs a little hotter and it requires a more powerful power supply. I powered my 6700K and 1070 on my last build on a 450W PSU lol.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidcapp*
> 
> @Akira749 are there any plans to release an RGB monoblock that is compatible with the ASUS Z270 Apex motherboard?


We're still debating on this one.


----------



## akira749

EK releases RGB monoblock for GIGABYTE Z270X motherboards


----------



## RadActiveLobstr

You apparently didn't debate very long...

EDIT: Never mind, different manufacturers.


----------



## kidcapp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> For luxury overclocking, Maximus IX Extreme.


I know, but I have some concerns since the block is made by Bitspower.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We're still debating on this one.


Thanks for the update.


----------



## war4peace

Hi there, could someone please take a look at #18647? My kit will likely arrive tomorrow and I still don't know whether I should just go ahead and install it or order extra parts first.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Hi there, could someone please take a look at #18647? My kit will likely arrive tomorrow and I still don't know whether I should just go ahead and install it or order extra parts first.


you really don't. need a monoblock even though they look awesome. But it really won't effect you. Doesn't hurt to have it but not needed. You are fine with just the pre mix ek. Mayhems is good if you want something with more color. You can add the gpu. One gpu and 1 cpu is fine on a 360 bare and mind you don't run the fans at 800rpm. As for loop order. Doesn't matter as long as you feed the pump so it doesn't go dry than you are ok. Just make it the way it looks good or the way you want it. Hope this helps


----------



## war4peace

Thank you, I'll go ahead and start with the kit itself, then see where that takes me.

...why do I have the feeling that I'm opening the gates to more and more expenses?


----------



## Blackops_2

FWIW guys got my EVO parts in today tried to assemble my supremacy converted EVO, supremacy jets are not compatible with the EVO. I guess i could've seen this had i looked at the jet more closely and the manual of the EVO. Ppcs just got in a supremacy upgrade kit







i've basically assembled my own minus the jet.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Thank you, I'll go ahead and start with the kit itself, then see where that takes me.
> 
> ...why do I have the feeling that I'm opening the gates to more and more expenses?


because you are lol. That's why I always recommend getting what you want first and not to try save a few dollars. I know money for everyone is tight but you usually end up spending more in the long run. If you have concerns and say somethings you don't like about the kit like reservoir size than I would price together the parts separate may be a bit more but save you buying the part down the line


----------



## Blackops_2

Anyone have a J2 jet they don't need? I can't find one anywhere, PPCs doesn't sell them individually. Could i use a J3 or J4 and be fine?


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Anyone have a J2 jet they don't need? I can't find one anywhere, PPCs doesn't sell them individually. Could i use a J3 or J4 and be fine?


I don't know what the state of FrozenCPU is but they list an EVO jet plate for $0.99

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c603/s1913/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Blocks_-_CPU-EK_CPU_-_Jet_Plates-Page1.html

I called them about a product their website listed as in stock but the guy I spoke with couldn't find them in his warehouse. That was last summer.


----------



## Blackops_2

I got crystal links from them without issue. PPCs told me they'll get me one after an email or two. At first they said they didn't sell them individually. Then offered the upgrade kit. To which i explained before they got the upgrade kit i pretty much assembled one myself with the top, insert, insert pin, and nickel block. I was just lacking the jet. They said they'll send me one to order the J4 and put in the comments as they directed.

I have to commend them on their CS, this is the second time they've helped me out.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> because you are lol. That's why I always recommend getting what you want first and not to try save a few dollars. I know money for everyone is tight but you usually end up spending more in the long run. If you have concerns and say somethings you don't like about the kit like reservoir size than I would price together the parts separate may be a bit more but save you buying the part down the line


The loop will be in the Define S with no window, I don't care about the looks, only silence and performance, in that order








But yeah, there's always going to be something. Future purchases will include GPU cooling and possibly the monoblock as well.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Having used Define R5 for watercooling I cannot reccomend it, the front is way too restrictive to be any good.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Having used Define R5 for watercooling I cannot reccomend it, the front is way too restrictive to be any good.


Could you please elaborate? Do you mean not enough airflow? Or can't fit the 360 rad?


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I had a 360 up top and 280 in the front but the front panel is so restrictive u cant get any air in there, and temps wont be good, you could suck in air from the top but the front rad would have to use the air that already ran through the top rad, there are so much better cases out there for watercooling, but if the price is the reason to go for the Define S i dont think you really can do better for that money.


----------



## war4peace

I mentioned Define S because I already own it, I bought it 3 weeks after it was released.
If it keeps my CPU under 70 degrees while at 100% (AME, Premiere, 3DS Max rendering), I'm good.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Im sure it will I had an overvolted 6700K and overvolted 980ti in it.


----------



## Ceadderman

If you run Exhaust out the top, I bet you're likely to find better temps in that Define S. Airflow through the front panel should increase, as there would be no obstructing airflow to push through.









~Ceadder


----------



## nikuk

I have 2 360s in a define s. Intake through front, exhaust out top. All using noctua ppc120 2k rpm fans.
Removing the front panel (keeping the filter) dropped peak water temps 1c (ambient 23-24c) and allow me to generally run the fans slower.

I'm in process of replacing it. I love the case and the form factor and I am generally a fractal fan.


----------



## nyk20z3

EK SE 360 and XSPC 1200rpm Static Pressure fans going in a In Win 509 -


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nikuk*
> 
> I have 2 360s in a define s. Intake through front, exhaust out top. All using noctua ppc120 2k rpm fans.
> Removing the front panel (keeping the filter) dropped peak water temps 1c (ambient 23-24c) and allow me to generally run the fans slower.
> 
> I'm in process of replacing it. I love the case and the form factor and I am generally a fractal fan.


I see. I'm thinking there's a good opportunity for some case front modding there. I do have an idea in my mind, maybe I'll find time to implement it... sometime in the future.


----------



## looniam

@Akira749

has there been consideration to "update" the eVGA 1080 FTW waterblocks for the FTW2?

OLD:



NEW:



moved a fan header that was replaced w/LED temp readout. but it doesn't look . . easy:


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> @Akira749
> 
> has there been consideration to "update" the eVGA 1080 FTW waterblocks for the FTW2?
> 
> OLD:
> 
> 
> 
> NEW:
> 
> 
> 
> moved a fan header that was replaced w/LED temp readout. but it doesn't look . . easy:


Truly if you were going to water cool the gpu for sure you'd be better served buying a ftw1. As far as I've seen the card itself remains relatively unchanged. It's the cooler that got the revamp.

If I had to guess I'd say the ftw2 will be more expensive, based on the $99 upgrade cost evga is charging to exchange your ftw1 for a ftw2. I don't see a reason to pay the premium for the better icx cooler if you intend on ripping the thing off anyway.


----------



## Ceadderman

You should be able to use FTW1 block. Just don't expect to use the LED connection.









~Ceadder


----------



## RadActiveLobstr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You should be able to use FTW1 block. Just don't expect to use the LED connection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's a fan connector and it looks like it'll be too high/tall and hit the block.


----------



## Jyve

I thought about asking this in the predator thread but chose this one instead.

What are the chances the predator impeller can work passively. IE: using the predator not connected to power as just a regular radiator.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> @Akira749
> 
> has there been consideration to "update" the eVGA 1080 FTW waterblocks for the FTW2?
> 
> OLD:
> 
> 
> 
> NEW:
> 
> 
> 
> moved a fan header that was replaced w/LED temp readout. but it doesn't look . . easy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Truly if you were going to water cool the gpu for sure you'd be better served buying a ftw1. As far as I've seen the card itself remains relatively unchanged. It's the cooler that got the revamp.
> 
> If I had to guess I'd say the ftw2 will be more expensive, based on the $99 upgrade cost evga is charging to exchange your ftw1 for a ftw2. I don't see a reason to pay the premium for the better icx cooler if you intend on ripping the thing off anyway.
Click to expand...

eVGA added $30 from the original ($649) MRSP of the FTW ACX and now have a $20 instant rebate making it $50 difference ($629/$679). reading the eVGA forums, those upgraders are thinking they are getting ripped off unless they are thinking of getting the 1080TI (or 2080TI) since you pretty much get another 90 day step up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RadActiveLobstr*
> 
> That's a fan connector and it looks like it'll be too high/tall and hit the block.


^THAT


----------



## stocksux

So I received two replacemt x3 tubes in the mail from performance-PCs.com and they were both supposed to be 250ml. Well the packaging says they are the same but when I unwrapped them and set them on the desk this is what it looks like!

Bringing my Build to a halt as I don't know how high or low to mount things. From what I can tell a 250ml tube should come in at 204mm in overall length which is 8.0315 inches. Am I right then that the tub in the right is correct and the tube on the left is some random tube?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I thought about asking this in the predator thread but chose this one instead.
> 
> What are the chances the predator impeller can work passively. IE: using the predator not connected to power as just a regular radiator.


It would most likely work, but it would just add extra restriction, why would you not drive the pump?

Even if you're adding an extra pump you can always keep the Predator's pump running for redundancy, and it'll increase your flow rates a bit too.

If for some reason you can't run the pump, I think you're better off selling the Predator's rad/pump combo and replace it with a regular radiator.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> It would most likely work, but it would just add extra restriction, why would you not drive the pump?
> 
> Even if you're adding an extra pump you can always keep the Predator's pump running for redundancy, and it'll increase your flow rates a bit too.
> 
> If for some reason you can't run the pump, I think you're better off selling the Predator's rad/pump combo and replace it with a regular radiator.


I have everything for a full custom loop, I was just thinking really. I'll likely just be eliminating the predator part entirely.


----------



## Blackops_2

Alright quick question the M4x16 DIN7991 screws that come with the EVO upgrade kit, are those the same screws the original supremacy used? Or do i need those particular screws?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> So I received two replacemt x3 tubes in the mail from performance-PCs.com and they were both supposed to be 250ml. Well the packaging says they are the same but when I unwrapped them and set them on the desk this is what it looks like!
> 
> Bringing my Build to a halt as I don't know how high or low to mount things. From what I can tell a 250ml tube should come in at 204mm in overall length which is 8.0315 inches. Am I right then that the tub in the right is correct and the tube on the left is some random tube?


I could be wrong but me thinks that the left tube is correct and the right tube is 200mm.









I believe this because at 204mm the threads wouldn't be counted toward length as those fit to the caps for a complete unit.









Best thing to do is contact PPCS and ask them however. This way they're alerted to a bad pick issue on their end.

~Ceadder


----------



## stocksux

Which damper are you guys finding works best to keep noise and vibration at a minimum, the one on the left (comes already installed or the one right which is included in packaging)? Manual says to use the one on the right if pump vibrations are higher than expected.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> Which damper are you guys finding works best to keep noise and vibration at a minimum, the one on the left (comes already installed or the one right which is included in packaging)? Manual says to use the one on the right if pump vibrations are higher than expected.


I used the stock one that came pre installed, never had any vibration issues...pump is inaudible up until about 70% then you'll hear a small whine


----------



## stocksux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I used the stock one that came pre installed, never had any vibration issues...pump is inaudible up until about 70% then you'll hear a small whine


I suppose I'll try stock configuration and see how it goes then.


----------



## stocksux

Opinions...use the double wide plate to mount two EK pump/res combo 140ml OR not use the double plate and go with the more traditional taller 250ml reservoir? I kind of don't mind the smaller ones since there's only one GPU. Seems like it all fits. But then again the larger tubes do look nice and "fill out" the right side a little better. Seems like if I went with the smaller ones I'd have to find something to do to fill in. Maybe longer tubing runs. Or maybe less is more...I'm rambling. What do you guys think?


----------



## FXformat

^^ I'd go with the larger res, the 140mm is just too short for that case, you want to fill out the interior as much as possible for a clean look. Don't clutter it, just fill it out as best as you can, but this is my opinion, it's your build in the end.


----------



## stocksux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> ^^ I'd go with the larger res, the 140mm is just too short for that case, you want to fill out the interior as much as possible for a clean look. Don't clutter it, just fill it out as best as you can, but this is my opinion, it's your build in the end.


Indeed it is, but that's why we forum isn't it? Get feedback, thoughts and opinions on things. Good place to think out loud.


----------



## fbmowner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> ^^ I'd go with the larger res, the 140mm is just too short for that case, you want to fill out the interior as much as possible for a clean look. Don't clutter it, just fill it out as best as you can, but this is my opinion, it's your build in the end.


For sure


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> @Akira749
> 
> has there been consideration to "update" the eVGA 1080 FTW waterblocks for the FTW2?
> 
> OLD:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NEW:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> moved a fan header that was replaced w/LED temp readout. but it doesn't look . . easy:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


We are working on a block for the FTW2. I have no ETA though

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> So I received two replacemt x3 tubes in the mail from performance-PCs.com and they were both supposed to be 250ml. Well the packaging says they are the same but when I unwrapped them and set them on the desk this is what it looks like!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bringing my Build to a halt as I don't know how high or low to mount things. From what I can tell a 250ml tube should come in at 204mm in overall length which is 8.0315 inches. Am I right then that the tub in the right is correct and the tube on the left is some random tube?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is really weird? I will let you know if the 204mm is with or without the threaded part ASAP.


----------



## stocksux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> This is really weird? I will let you know if the 204mm is with or without the threaded part ASAP.


I would appreciate that so I know which one I will need to RMA. Or I suppose they could both be wrong...who knows. Thank you.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

http://www.overclock.net/t/1623179/were-interviewing-ekwbs-b-negative-live/

We go live in a half hour - ask quickly!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> I would appreciate that so I know which one I will need to RMA. Or I suppose they could both be wrong...who knows. Thank you.


I happen to have 2 here for an upcoming build so I measured them. They are 204mm with the threaded parts included. So the correct one in yours is the shortest of the pair.

Did they both had the EK sticker on the bubble wrap saying it was an EK-RES X3 TUBE 250 (204mm)?


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I could be wrong but me thinks that the left tube is correct and the right tube is 200mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe this because at 204mm the threads wouldn't be counted toward length as those fit to the caps for a complete unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best thing to do is contact PPCS and ask them however. This way they're alerted to a bad pick issue on their end.
> 
> ~Ceadder


When i bought my res, the total length listed, is WITH the caps on. So a 250mm Xres would be the one on the right, as with the caps it'll come out to almost 10".

My 150mm Res that i bought, i measured it and it was from cap to cap end, the tubing itself is a some random size, they count the caps as part of the sizing too.

Pic of my 150mm res which equals to about 6"


----------



## stocksux

The picture I posted was the only packaging they arrived in. They were each individually wrapped in bubble wrap with the same sticker/SKU on them.


----------



## stocksux

Here is the pic of the packaging


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I could be wrong but me thinks that the left tube is correct and the right tube is 200mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe this because at 204mm the threads wouldn't be counted toward length as those fit to the caps for a complete unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best thing to do is contact PPCS and ask them however. This way they're alerted to a bad pick issue on their end.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When i bought my res, the total length listed, is WITH the caps on. So a 250mm Xres would be the one on the right, as with the caps it'll come out to almost 10".
> 
> My 150mm Res that i bought, i measured it and it was from cap to cap end, the tubing itself is a some random size, they count the caps as part of the sizing too.
> 
> Pic of my 150mm res which equals to about 6"
Click to expand...

Ahhkay,yeah that's what my white one measured out to be.









So I learnt sumthing new today.









~Ceadder


----------



## spddmn24

Is a loud mechanical resonance sound normal for the Vadar fans? I have 3 f3-120's setup as pull on an xe 360 radiator and at any speed they make a horrible noise. Sounds close to this video.


----------



## Ceadderman

No. Haven't seen the video due to being on mobile atm, but EK fans aren't loud at all in my experience. Cud be you got a bad batch. Happens.









~Ceadder


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spddmn24*
> 
> Is a loud mechanical resonance sound normal for the Vadar fans? I have 3 f3-120's setup as pull on an xe 360 radiator and at any speed they make a horrible noise. Sounds close to this video.


Hi there

I'm running Ek F3 120mm 1850RPM fans and they sound very similar to the video which you posted

Running like you are running XE360, at 850-900RPM they still little whine and sound very strange and at anything above or beyond 1200-1300RPM they are loud or louder, but at least they don't whine

I control my fans through the Aquaero 6XT

I will try to make video later this week

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spddmn24*
> 
> Is a loud mechanical resonance sound normal for the Vadar fans? I have 3 f3-120's setup as pull on an xe 360 radiator and at any speed they make a horrible noise. Sounds close to this video.


i'll sometimes get that lower freq. sound sub 700rpms on one of my F2-140s.

it doesn't bother me; going that low is after my rig has idled all night w/my furnace off.


----------



## becks

I wonder if there is any future plans to make a block for this baby ( Zotac Geforce GTX 1080 Mini)...
Will open a whole new level of mini itx builds


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> The picture I posted was the only packaging they arrived in. They were each individually wrapped in bubble wrap with the same sticker/SKU on them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> Here is the pic of the packaging
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So it's most probably an error on our side and not PPCS. Let me know if you encounter any issues with your RMA.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> I wonder if there is any future plans to make a block for this baby ( Zotac Geforce GTX 1080 Mini)...
> Will open a whole new level of mini itx builds


No plans to make a block for this card. Sorry.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> Which damper are you guys finding works best to keep noise and vibration at a minimum, the one on the left (comes already installed or the one right which is included in packaging)? Manual says to use the one on the right if pump vibrations are higher than expected.


Having the same pump/res combo and having used both dampers the one on the right is the way to go, much quieter overall.


----------



## stocksux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Having the same pump/res combo and having used both dampers the one on the right is the way to go, much quieter overall.


Thanks for the feedback! I'm definitely looking for quiet. That's the way to go then.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback! I'm definitely looking for quiet. That's the way to go then.


No problem, by mounting the pump/res combo with the damper already fitted I found that it had a very annoying "pitch" at anything above 50% duty cycle, no such issue with the other damper supplied, see how you go


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Guess i could be in the ek club sence i just ordered 8 ek vardars 120er whites and i had a ek 5870 block for years. On another note do any of you run vardars 2200rpm ones how do they run and sound i have a fan controler im going to use to slow them down.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*
> 
> Guess i could be in the ek club sence i just ordered 8 ek vardars 120er whites and i had a ek 5870 block for years. On another note do any of you run vardars 2200rpm ones how do they run and sound i have a fan controler im going to use to slow them down.


To me they are quite at low speeds and not so bad at high speeds!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

thats good to know i have some cm masterfans and they drive me nuts even at the lowest speeds i can put them.


----------



## f1schu

Hi there guys.
Built my rig just over a year ago and decided to go with an EK Monoblock for my R5E (Nickel plated version). I had read about the issues with EK and their Nickel plating but thought the problems had been resolved so I didn't think I'd have any issues.
Just started to strip down my rig for routine maintenance and i found this.




I have been using Mayhems X1 blood red pre mix but im sure it has nothing to do with that as i am also running 2x Aquacomputer Nickel plated gpu blocks which are perfect with no sign of any corrosion at all.
At first I thought it was just some staining from the x1, bleeding into the middle of the bottom section of the block but on closer inspection it definitely looks like corrosion. Am just in the process of flushing the system though with di water before i take it all apart so will post some more pics once I've removed the block from the motherboard.

Do you think i should rma the block? Am a bit pissed of with EK tbh as when i first purchased the block it arrived broken and i had to rma it from brand new and now this :/


----------



## stocksux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1schu*
> 
> Hi there guys.
> Built my rig just over a year ago and decided to go with an EK Monoblock for my R5E (Nickel plated version). I had read about the issues with EK and their Nickel plating but thought the problems had been resolved so I didn't think I'd have any issues.
> Just started to strip down my rig for routine maintenance and i found this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been using Mayhems X1 blood red pre mix but im sure it has nothing to do with that as i am also running 2x Aquacomputer Nickel plated gpu blocks which are perfect with no sign of any corrosion at all.
> At first I thought it was just some staining from the x1, bleeding into the middle of the bottom section of the block but on closer inspection it definitely looks like corrosion. Am just in the process of flushing the system though with di water before i take it all apart so will post some more pics once I've removed the block from the motherboard.
> 
> Do you think i should rma the block? Am a bit pissed of with EK tbh as when i first purchased the block it arrived broken and i had to rma it from brand new and now this :/


Hmm that does look strange...strangely like bacon! I've got a monoblock on an asus hero viii and do not have that issue. Although I haven't been running it as long as you have. I saw this in Mayhems site;

Frequently Asked Questions
All Categories » Mayhems X1 Coolants
How long before i change out Mayhems X1 coolant ?
Last updated a year ago

Mayhems X1 coolant should be changed out at least yearly (12 months) to keep your system in tip top form.

I know you said your gpu blocks look fine so I'm not really sure what to tell ya. Maybe Akira will see this and be able to explain better.


----------



## f1schu

Thanks bud. Yeah i know X1 is meant to be good for a year but I changed it 6 month's ago anyways and although i saw it starting to bleed through to the middle of the lower part of the block then, it wasnt anywhere near as bad as it is now so didn't think much of it at the time.
Like i said in my previous post, the nickel plated aquacomputer gpu blocks look as good as the day i installed them so I really think is an issue with the EK block.

Edit: dont pay too much attention to the colour of the liquid left in the block in my pictures as its the left over x1 mixed with di water as i was flushing it through before i took the rig apart, hence why its not really blood red


----------



## stocksux

They do have a 2 year limited warranty. If it's their bad product they should stand behind it and offer a replacement.


----------



## looniam

by any off chance, does anyone know where or have the 3mm LEDs for the EVO that connect to the mobo fan header? EK sell one that connect to molex.

after several times of putting them in/out of the block the lead of the resistor broke. tight fit between the block and vrm heatsink on my mobo and not knowing that under the shrink wrap that there was a resistor . . . . yeah it got abused and i know nothing about LEDs









i thought it was all "magic".


----------



## emsj86

Dark side LEDs work well. I had one for my bits power blocks and the evo at one point


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> I'll try that when it arrives, I just ordered the block. Thank you for your help. Will keep you updated.




It worked. Just didn't screw in the 4 screws.. I saw no other way..


----------



## rubenlol2

Noticed something strange on my nano's waterblock, used with a X360 predator and all the coolant is the clear coolant that came with it.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Dark side LEDs work well. I had one for my bits power blocks and the evo at one point


thanks but right now i've only found single LEDs w/fan connectors. don't think adding 12" for a splitter will work out aesthetically

i'll browse around more later.


----------



## Barefooter

Here's what 45 lbs. of EK Vardar F3-140ER fans looks like...

I'll be stuffing as many of these into my new Big Red "Devastator" build as I can.

Stop by and check it out. I'll be using EK water blocks as well.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Here's what 45 lbs. of EK Vardar F3-140ER fans looks like...
> 
> I'll be stuffing as many of these into my new Big Red "Devastator" build as I can.
> 
> Stop by and check it out. I'll be using EK water blocks as well.


dang lol i orderd 8 of the 120er white ones will be in friday i hope they run much better then my current cm masterfans.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*
> 
> dang lol i orderd 8 of the 120er white ones will be in friday i hope they run much better then my current cm masterfans.


Be sure they will run 1000% betters


----------



## Ceadderman

Not sure about that, but they're 100x better for radiators than CM fans which are nothing more than case fans at this point. CM just doesn't manufacture radiator fans.









~Ceadder


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Pardon my ignorance but I have the Supremacy EVO cpu block thats a few years old, do I need Mounting plate Supremacy AMD - Black only or do I also need EK-Supremacy EVO Backplate ? Or are the backplates universal and I can use my old ones? I just want to be ready for ryzen at launch so incase amd manages to manufacture an actual usable CPU it`s just the matter of swapping the mounting plate/backplate, thanks









This is all i got in the box.


----------



## Ceadderman

There are universal back plates that can be had for a reasonable price. iirc EVO only comes with 115x backplate and mount. So while you're on your eTailer looking for the AMD mount you will want to look for the backplate too. All standoff that come with EVO will thread to the ubp.









~Ceadder


----------



## jura11

Hi guys

I'm planning adding extra GPU to my current spec,currently I'm running GTX 1080 with GTX Titan X Maxwell and I will be adding GTX 1070,its not for gaming I would add

Here is my motherboard ASRock X99 Extreme6 and not sure which one I need EK FC-Terminal



This one will or should be OK ?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi

Thanks,Jura


----------



## Papa Emeritus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Pardon my ignorance but I have the Supremacy EVO cpu block thats a few years old, do I need Mounting plate Supremacy AMD - Black only or do I also need EK-Supremacy EVO Backplate ? Or are the backplates universal and I can use my old ones? I just want to be ready for ryzen at launch so incase amd manages to manufacture an actual usable CPU it`s just the matter of swapping the mounting plate/backplate, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is all i got in the box.


You need both the mounting plate and backplate for AM4. I've ordered those myself directly from EK.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papa Emeritus*
> 
> You need both the mounting plate and backplate for AM4. I've ordered those myself directly from EK.


EK should be sending those for free for anyone whose upgrading to AM4, you know, like 99% of other companies are doing haha. I heard some people are getting em sent for free (only having to pay shipping) and ive heard other people having to pay for everything.

Me, im about 900km away from EKWB so waiting for shipping isn't a problem comes pretty quick.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> I'm planning adding extra GPU to my current spec,currently I'm running GTX 1080 with GTX Titan X Maxwell and I will be adding GTX 1070,its not for gaming I would add
> 
> Here is my motherboard ASRock X99 Extreme6 and not sure which one I need EK FC-Terminal
> 
> 
> 
> This one will or should be OK ?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi
> 
> Thanks,Jura


Are you making a 3 way SLI?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Are you making a 3 way SLI?


Hi there

No, I can't do that as you can't SLI three different GPU

I just want to use this EK FC Terminal parallel or serial as this would be better looking and less hassle as well

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Papa Emeritus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> EK should be sending those for free for anyone whose upgrading to AM4, you know, like 99% of other companies are doing haha. I heard some people are getting em sent for free (only having to pay shipping) and ive heard other people having to pay for everything.
> 
> Me, im about 900km away from EKWB so waiting for shipping isn't a problem comes pretty quick.


Yea i know, but i needed to order some stuff anyways


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Are you making a 3 way SLI?
> 
> 
> 
> Hi there
> 
> No, I can't do that as you can't SLI three different GPU
> 
> I just want to use this EK FC Terminal parallel or serial as this would be better looking and less hassle as well
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura
Click to expand...

I think you're out of luck, the M.2 space messes it up.

The triple terminal has 1 slot between each GPU


You have 2 slots between the top and middle GPUs


You need something that did this (excuse the crap paint skills).


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> I think you're out of luck, the M.2 space messes it up.
> 
> The triple terminal has 1 slot between each GPU
> 
> 
> You have 2 slots between the top and middle GPUs
> 
> 
> You need something that did this (excuse the crap paint skills).


Hi there

Thanks for this, I thought so I can use this

Looks like I will need to get something like this

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22546/ex-tub-2536/Barrow_G_14_Retractable_Connector_22_-_31mm_-_Black.html?tl=g30c101s873&id=YZFPmrXt

Will this works?

Thanks, Jura


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> I'm planning adding extra GPU to my current spec,currently I'm running GTX 1080 with GTX Titan X Maxwell and I will be adding GTX 1070,its not for gaming I would add
> 
> Here is my motherboard ASRock X99 Extreme6 and not sure which one I need EK FC-Terminal
> 
> 
> 
> This one will or should be OK ?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi
> 
> Thanks,Jura


Why not look at using the 7 slot terminal, and putting blanking plates where you don't have a card connection?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-hepta-semi-parallel

Darlene


----------



## watever44

Hi,

Looking to build my first look in my new fractal define mini c.

I was thinking of purchasing a slim 120 kit and adding a 280 rad (ek or not) to it.
Will wait on the gpu block as I might replace my gtx 980 as block are rare for a past generation.

I heard bad stories about the Supremacy MX leaking.
Is that true, then I should be looking with a kit with a evo block.

Also, I tought the nickel plating issue was solved, but from previous posts, look like it's still a problem ?

Thank you


----------



## stocksux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *watever44*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Looking to build my first look in my new fractal define mini c.
> 
> I was thinking of purchasing a slim 120 kit and adding a 280 rad (ek or not) to it.
> Will wait on the gpu block as I might replace my gtx 980 as block are rare for a past generation.
> 
> I heard bad stories about the Supremacy MX leaking.
> Is that true, then I should be looking with a kit with a evo block.
> 
> Also, I tought the nickel plating issue was solved, but from previous posts, look like it's still a problem ?
> 
> Thank you


I personally would go with an EVO. It's just an all around better block. Also, buy a new Titan XP ??


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Pardon my ignorance but I have the Supremacy EVO cpu block thats a few years old, do I need Mounting plate Supremacy AMD - Black only or do I also need EK-Supremacy EVO Backplate ? Or are the backplates universal and I can use my old ones? I just want to be ready for ryzen at launch so incase amd manages to manufacture an actual usable CPU it`s just the matter of swapping the mounting plate/backplate, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is all i got in the box.


Now that my mobile is behaving, you have everything you need. The plate on the left is the AMD plate and the mounting bracket is above it. The rubber piece fits between the backplate and the motherboard. So you're good to go.









~Ceadder


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Are you sure? According to this im not good ? I dont even know anymore










Strange thing is if I`d have to order the mounting plate and the backplate, it would be just cheaper to buy a new block and sell the old one.
Thats what I`ll do probably, then I wont have any EK in the loop at all anymore


----------



## Ceadderman

I could be wrong. AM2 AM3 and AM3+ have the same mount configuration. Maybe AM4 is slightly off center to those. But from what you have pictured they look the same. A way to find out is to try to mount your backplate to an AM4 board if you already have one.









~Ceadder


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Left is mine right is supposed to be the one for AM4 so yeah I quess it`s a no go.
And sadly I dont have the new motherboard yet, wont buy anything before I see a gazillion reviews.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Why not look at using the 7 slot terminal, and putting blanking plates where you don't have a card connection?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-hepta-semi-parallel
> 
> Darlene


Hi Darlene

Thanks for reply

But I think its bit of waste to use this on 3xGPU

If I would have different motherboard with 4 or 5 PCI_E slots then off course I would get this without the question there

Looks like Bitspower Aquapipe II will be OK option although not "nicer" than EK FC Terminal

And getting another motherboard only due using EK FC Terminal is out of question for me guys

Hope this helps and thanks guys for replies,really appreciated

Thanks, Jura


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Why not look at using the 7 slot terminal, and putting blanking plates where you don't have a card connection?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-hepta-semi-parallel
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Darlene
> 
> Thanks for reply
> 
> But I think its bit of waste to use this on 3xGPU
> 
> If I would have different motherboard with 4 or 5 PCI_E slots then off course I would get this without the question there
> 
> Looks like Bitspower Aquapipe II will be OK option although not "nicer" than EK FC Terminal
> 
> And getting another motherboard only due using EK FC Terminal is out of question for me guys
> 
> Hope this helps and thanks guys for replies,really appreciated
> 
> Thanks, Jura
Click to expand...

Actually, . . . .

Since not all EK blocks have the terminal positions in the same position based on distance back from the PCIe bracket . . . . since you're using three different cards, that makes the odds of the ports lining up pretty much a crap shoot so that even those adjustable ones might not help. since the ports probably won't be in a line . . .

You'll most likely have to kluge some monstrosity together to use 3 different cards unless you get extremely lucky.

Do you even have the blocks yet to see how they line up?

Darlene


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Actually, . . . .
> 
> Since not all EK blocks have the terminal positions in the same position based on distance back from the PCIe bracket . . . . since you're using three different cards, that makes the odds of the ports lining up pretty much a crap shoot so that even those adjustable ones might not help. since the ports probably won't be in a line . . .
> 
> You'll most likely have to kluge some monstrosity together to use 3 different cards unless you get extremely lucky.
> 
> Do you even have the blocks yet to see how they line up?
> 
> Darlene


Hi Darlene

Here is picture how it looks,top GPU is GTX1080 Founders Edition and bottom one card is EVGA GTX Titan X SC Maxwell










Still work in progress as when I build loop I didn't have 90° and 45° fittings and I'm planning to tear down and go route of acrylic/PETG or other options

I would thought so all cards will line up there as GTX1070 block is in many cases compatible with GTX1080

https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/waterblock/3831109831274

I will be getting EVGA GTX1070 or Gainward Phoenix GTX1070 and I would thought so all cards will line up

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Actually, . . . .
> 
> Since not all EK blocks have the terminal positions in the same position based on distance back from the PCIe bracket . . . . since you're using three different cards, that makes the odds of the ports lining up pretty much a crap shoot so that even those adjustable ones might not help. since the ports probably won't be in a line . . .
> 
> You'll most likely have to kluge some monstrosity together to use 3 different cards unless you get extremely lucky.
> 
> Do you even have the blocks yet to see how they line up?
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Darlene
> 
> Here is picture how it looks,top GPU is GTX1080 Founders Edition and bottom one card is EVGA GTX Titan X SC Maxwell
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still work in progress as when I build loop I didn't have 90° and 45° fittings and I'm planning to tear down and go route of acrylic/PETG or other options
> 
> I would thought so all cards will line up there as GTX1070 block is in many cases compatible with GTX1080
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/waterblock/3831109831274
> 
> I will be getting EVGA GTX1070 or Gainward Phoenix GTX1070 and I would thought so all cards will line up
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura
Click to expand...

If the part number for the block for the GPU you plan to get is different from the blocks you have, you could ask akira if the terminals position the same.

Why not another 1080 FE and know you'll be golden?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If the part number for the block for the GPU you plan to get is different from the blocks you have, you could ask akira if the terminals position the same.
> 
> Why not another 1080 FE and know you'll be golden?


Hi Darlene

I'm using EK-FC1080 on Founders Edition and for GTX1070 will probably be using same block, for me doesn't matter if there is different engraving as per EK website,both blocks are same

"EK-FC1080 GTX is identical to the EK-FC1070 GTX with the only difference being the different engraving."

Regarding getting another Founders Edition its down to price,if I find one for good price then I would get,if not then GTX1070 I will be getting as this card will cost me just £400-£420 plus WB and GTX1080 Founders Edition will cost me £650 onwards plus WB

Its down to the price,performance with GTX1070 is not bad in rendering,if I would be unhappy then I would sell that card, which I don't think will happen

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## fbmowner

Picked up a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv case and redid my loop. I must say it was fun stuffing 2 360 rad's inside this case. This weekend I am going to replace the 30mm up top with a 45mm. It's going to be tight, but that's the way I like it. No pun intended.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Got my ek vardar 120er white in i have to say i love them up till 70% they are silent and im running 8 of them 70% aint bad 80-100% starts to ramp up in sound they seem to cool pretty dang good at low rpms also.


----------



## Mega Man

Pics please


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Havet really took any good ones just a few not great pics at all but heres one will take more when i wake up sat, i got some 140s on the way to do push pull on my ek 420 rad sadly i couldnt find decent full white fans. Cant wait till i get my taxes to get a 1080 so i can make that part look much cleaner.


----------



## skingun

Does the EK Ball Valve have a built in rotary connection?


----------



## outofmyheadyo

It has nothing just double female g1/4


----------



## skingun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> It has nothing just double female g1/4


Thanks


----------



## Bal3Wolf

took a better pic and boy was it a hassle took pc apart to fix a fan wire and take some pics ended up spending 3hrs trying to figure out why it stoped posting.


----------



## Reaper28

Anybody know if you can buy the Evo's springs that are needed for 1150 install at Home Depot or Lowes possibly? I lost ONE spring and can't find it anywhere. I don't want to wait a week for a new mounting kit to arrive. I knew I should have bought one in case when I bought the replacement nickel base


----------



## huckincharlie

oldie but goodie









restored and chromed


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Anybody know if you can buy the Evo's springs that are needed for 1150 install at Home Depot or Lowes possibly? I lost ONE spring and can't find it anywhere. I don't want to wait a week for a new mounting kit to arrive. I knew I should have bought one in case when I bought the replacement nickel base


That sucks bro. Don't you have another previous Gen EK block? If you have one sitting shelved, you may consider using that. I surely wish they would include two extra springs like they do screws and washers.









~Ceadder


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That sucks bro. Don't you have another previous Gen EK block? If you have one sitting shelved, you may consider using that. I surely wish they would include two extra springs like they do screws and washers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Unfortunately, No. I was even hoping some of the old air coolers I had around would use a spring the same size so I could at least get it mounted for now but of course not. I have no idea where it went and no local store has EK evo parts so I'm screwed again and everything is closed tomorrow because of a freaking holiday


----------



## KaffieneKing

@huckincharlie looks amazing! Love that block much better then the sharp square thing now


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That sucks bro. Don't you have another previous Gen EK block? If you have one sitting shelved, you may consider using that. I surely wish they would include two extra springs like they do screws and washers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, No. I was even hoping some of the old air coolers I had around would use a spring the same size so I could at least get it mounted for now but of course not. I have no idea where it went and no local store has EK evo parts so I'm screwed again and everything is closed tomorrow because of a freaking holiday
Click to expand...

Do you have a magnetic wand? I would sweep the area you last saw all 4 of them together with it, cause they are magnetic. I just checked to make sure with the springs I have on hand. Sadly the Post is slow. By time I could get one to you you'll likely have fount the transgressor or gotten a replacement at an Automotive parts store. We used to stock springs on our Dorman Isle when I worked automotive parts back in the day. That company has since changed hands but the company that bought them out kept the isle. Nuts, bolts, gaskets, door pins... you name it, if it's a necessary part you'll find it there.









~Ceadder


----------



## huckincharlie

@KaffieneKing Yeah. Sadly, you are right. 6 years of using and still going strong


----------



## Soggysilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huckincharlie*
> 
> oldie but goodie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> restored and chromed


Love the EK SHF block...



Six years going strong!


----------



## Ceadderman

I hAve had Supreme HF Round Top, Supreme HF and now Supremacy Clean EVO.









Love them all an cannot wait to see what EK has in store for us in the future.









For looks though, my favorite is Supreme HF RoundTop. It's lack of edges and linear design makes it stand out in that build.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Anybody know if you can buy the Evo's springs that are needed for 1150 install at Home Depot or Lowes possibly? I lost ONE spring and can't find it anywhere. I don't want to wait a week for a new mounting kit to arrive. I knew I should have bought one in case when I bought the replacement nickel base


I'm sending you a PM


----------



## emsj86

Once again bring back the plexi HOF cpu block please


----------



## f1schu

Update from my previous post about possible corrosion/plating issue with my year old EK R5E Nickel monoblock.

Finnaly had time to finish flushing and completely disassemble my rig.
I removed the monoblock from the board and flushed it through with some more di water to get rid of any remaining dye from the Meyhems X1 blood red coolant i was using.
On closer inspection it definitely looked like some corrosion or the nickel plating comming off of the lower part of the monoblock, the part where the corrosion/plating issue is happening is not even in the coolant channel itself but instead on the raised middle section of the block where the coolant doesn't go. I had noticed some coolant had blead through to this area when i changed the coolant at the 6 month mark but at the time I just thought it was a bit of staining from the red dye as there was just a bit of residue there.
Anyways i decided to strip the block and take a look inside to see what was going on and as you can see from the image below the Nickel plating has almost all gone from the middle lower part of the block and has started to corrode at the bottom and around the outside where the o-ring sits.





I removed the cpu plate to take a look in there and it looks okay I think (does this okay to you guys?)



I was going to completely strip the block for inspection as i wanted to see if it was corrosion or just some staining from the dye on the main part of the block shown here.




But unfortunately there was one screw that had a rounded head which i couldn't remove (Nice one EK quality control!) So couldn't strip the block any further.



I'm going to email EK and see if I can get a replacement block, I know some corrosion/oxidation is inevitable but for me this is unacceptable.
There was nothing in my loop when I drained it, the coolant used has been Mayhems x1 blood red changed at 6 months and my Nickel Aquacomputer gpu blocks both look perfect with zero signs of any corrosion or plating issues at all. Add that to the fact that when i purchased it from new it came cracked and had to be rma'd at my expense and also came back with one of the screw heads rounded off, making taking the block apart for cleaning etc impossible without drilling the head off of the screw, thus risking damage to the acrylic block cover, I'm not impressed with EK at all tbh :/


----------



## Enapace

My EK anniversary block finally shipped today can't wait see it in the flesh


----------



## Jsunn

Hello All,

Quick question about my EK-Kit X360. There was a wired pair of 3mm LEDs that I believe go into the machined holes on the CPU waterblock, though it looks like they will fit in the pump top as well.

It looks like there is a 3 pin fan plug for power, so I am guessing that I can just plug it into a normal fan header to get them to light up?

This wasn't listed in the instruction manual.

Thanks,
-J


----------



## failwheeldrive

Yes, assuming they're 12v LEDs and not 5v (they're almost certainly 12v due to the 3 pin connector) plugging them into fan headers should be fine.


----------



## looniam

yes those 3mm LEDs are for the blocks and work well on a fan header. btw, be careful bending where the heatshrink is @ the first light; there is a resistor there and a lead will break.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## akira749

EK releases monoblock for ASUS ROG Maximus IX Hero motherboard!


----------



## ali13245

Does anyone if EK will be selling AM4 mounting brackets? I'm really not interested in buying a whole new cpu block just for the mounting bracket.


----------



## looniam

nickle and black for AM4:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/water-blocks/block-spare-parts/mounting-plates/cpu


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Does anyone if EK will be selling AM4 mounting brackets? I'm really not interested in buying a whole new cpu block just for the mounting bracket.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> nickle and black for AM4:
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/water-blocks/block-spare-parts/mounting-plates/cpu


This ^^ for the mounting plate and also this for the backplate: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-backplate-supremacy


----------



## looniam

whoa, overlooked the back plate.

just might be ordering all that myself.


----------



## bluej511

Is ek supplying am4 backplates and mounting plates for free or whats going on with that? Not really looking to spend 15$ considering everyone else is providing it for free, it not ill cool it with my nh-u14s again and have noctua ship me the mounting hardware and keep my custom loop for my gpu only (with a 360 and 240mm rad i should get some seriously nice gpu temps.

@akira749 Any ideas on free mounting hardware for am4 purchasers?


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Is ek supplying am4 backplates and mounting plates for free or whats going on with that? Not really looking to spend 15$ considering everyone else is providing it for free, it not ill cool it with my nh-u14s again and have noctua ship me the mounting hardware and keep my custom loop for my gpu only (with a 360 and 240mm rad i should get some seriously nice gpu temps.
> 
> @akira749 Any ideas on free mounting hardware for am4 purchasers?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrejEKWB*
> 
> Supremacy EVO in kits comes with AM4 bracket and it is compatible! If you get older revision kit, than just shoot us a message through our support and we'll send you the bracket free of charge.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1621438/ek-kit-x360-compatibility-with-ryzen-am4-motherboards
post #3









This is for the CPU block in kits, but i guess regular purchased ones are also eligible


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1621438/ek-kit-x360-compatibility-with-ryzen-am4-motherboards
> post #3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is for the CPU block in kits, but i guess regular purchased ones are also eligible


Yea would be nice to know. Someone on reddit did get one for free (they had to pay shipping which isn't a big deal for me im only about 900km away from EKWB) but another user couldn't even get a kit. I do believe it comes out to around 10-12€ or so for the bracket and backplate.

Im more then likely going to ryzen next, glad to know my w10 license will work on it even upgrading my mobo/cpu combo so it won't be a full build for me.


----------



## stocksux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK releases monoblock for ASUS ROG Maximus IX Hero motherboard!


The block for the Hero Viii was great! Check my Red Roggy build for pics


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> The block for the Hero Viii was great! Check my Red Roggy build for pics


This may be a stupid question but, I have an EK DDC 3.2. It has a PWM header and a 4-Pin MOLEX plug. I noticed it never really changes speed much more than ~+/- 30 RPM's. Which I view is just "tolerance" or what have you. Should I be using just one of these plugs?


----------



## stocksux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> This may be a stupid question but, I have an EK DDC 3.2. It has a PWM header and a 4-Pin MOLEX plug. I noticed it never really changes speed much more than ~+/- 30 RPM's. Which I view is just "tolerance" or what have you. Should I be using just one of these plugs?


The rpm won't change unless your temps start to climb significantly. Then the pwm would crank up the pump. If your temps are steady then it won't change much. The molex connector is to actually power the pump


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Gota give props im in love with these 120er white vardars my old cm fans at 40% fan speed using soundmeter on my phone was around 50-60dB, I am running 3 Phanteks PH-F140MP and have 3 Noctua NF-A14 FLX on ek 420 rad then 8 120er vardars on my 360 and 240 rad with 1 cm masterfan air balance as a exhaust using my phone like befor my db output now is between 19-30db at idle fans dont ramp up till cpu hits 65c


----------



## stocksux

How in the world do people get there pump/res combos with the multi port top to all line up?????? I can't for the life of me get things to line up so all ports are facing the same way! HELP!!!


----------



## stocksux

Here's a pic of what I'm talking about

As you can see, that when everything is tightened down the fittings on the top are almost 180 degrees different than the in/out ports. Any advice on a way to line these up and not leak would be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## becks

It's all about the tread..and there's where your tread ends.
The only way to "bypass" it ..is to use a spacer...
Preferable a rubber one so you can adjust exactly where the in/out etc stops.
Check your local DIY store and see if they have anything like that.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> Here's a pic of what I'm talking about
> 
> As you can see, that when everything is tightened down the fittings on the top are almost 180 degrees different than the in/out ports. Any advice on a way to line these up and not leak would be appreciated. Thanks.


Flipping the ends can make a difference. Moving the top piece to the bottom and vice versa. Or in your case just flipping the tube.

You should be able to get at least 90 degrees of adjustment on each while still being air tight and using a thicker or thinner oring makes a difference.


----------



## f1schu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1schu*
> 
> Update from my previous post about possible corrosion/plating issue with my year old EK R5E Nickel monoblock.
> 
> Finnaly had time to finish flushing and completely disassemble my rig.
> I removed the monoblock from the board and flushed it through with some more di water to get rid of any remaining dye from the Meyhems X1 blood red coolant i was using.
> On closer inspection it definitely looked like some corrosion or the nickel plating comming off of the lower part of the monoblock, the part where the corrosion/plating issue is happening is not even in the coolant channel itself but instead on the raised middle section of the block where the coolant doesn't go. I had noticed some coolant had blead through to this area when i changed the coolant at the 6 month mark but at the time I just thought it was a bit of staining from the red dye as there was just a bit of residue there.
> Anyways i decided to strip the block and take a look inside to see what was going on and as you can see from the image below the Nickel plating has almost all gone from the middle lower part of the block and has started to corrode at the bottom and around the outside where the o-ring sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I removed the cpu plate to take a look in there and it looks okay I think (does this okay to you guys?)
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to completely strip the block for inspection as i wanted to see if it was corrosion or just some staining from the dye on the main part of the block shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But unfortunately there was one screw that had a rounded head which i couldn't remove (Nice one EK quality control!) So couldn't strip the block any further.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to email EK and see if I can get a replacement block, I know some corrosion/oxidation is inevitable but for me this is unacceptable.
> There was nothing in my loop when I drained it, the coolant used has been Mayhems x1 blood red changed at 6 months and my Nickel Aquacomputer gpu blocks both look perfect with zero signs of any corrosion or plating issues at all. Add that to the fact that when i purchased it from new it came cracked and had to be rma'd at my expense and also came back with one of the screw heads rounded off, making taking the block apart for cleaning etc impossible without drilling the head off of the screw, thus risking damage to the acrylic block cover, I'm not impressed with EK at all tbh :/


I opened a ticket with EK support and this is the response....

Thank you for contacting us.
I'm really sorry to hear about the reported problem.

Sadly we did have a couple of similar reports from a couple of users, but the funny thing is, they all used the same coolant as you - Mayhems X1
I guess this coolant just isn't good with our products. Can't say how come there are no problems with the Aqua ones, but this is what it looks like.
Please know though that this has absolutely no effect on the performance of the water block and you can still use it, but it just doesn't look nice.

I would suggest opening another RMA or just updating the one you already had for this water block and go over it with our RMA guys.
If you can't reopen it please let me know and we will arrange it some other way.

We sincerely apologize for the inconvenience and thank you for understanding.

So basically they are blaming it on Mayhems X1 coolant yet my Aquacomputer nickel gpu blocks are in perfect condition...sounds legit lol


----------



## Sky-way

Just received my EK supremacy EVO (nickel acetal) and I'm going through the box to make sure I have everything. Did they stop including additional jet plates? It seems I didn't get any extras in the box, everything else is here just no jet plates. I don't really need them (it's already set up out of the box for lga 115x) but I'm wondering if I should return it or just keep it?


----------



## stocksux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sky-way*
> 
> Just received my EK supremacy EVO (nickel acetal) and I'm going through the box to make sure I have everything. Did they stop including additional jet plates? It seems I didn't get any extras in the box, everything else is here just no jet plates. I don't really need them (it's already set up out of the box for lga 115x) but I'm wondering if I should return it or just keep it?


I ordered and received an EVO Sup this week and I had additional jets in mine packaging.


----------



## Sky-way

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> I ordered and received an EVO Sup this week and I had additional jets in mine packaging.


Well damn, that's not good. Maybe I can get ahold of EK and they could send them to me so I wouldn't have to return it.


----------



## stocksux

I'm not sure I have anywhere around me like that. Any suggestions online?


----------



## stocksux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> It's all about the tread..and there's where your tread ends.
> The only way to "bypass" it ..is to use a spacer...
> Preferable a rubber one so you can adjust exactly where the in/out etc stops.
> Check your local DIY store and see if they have anything like that.


Forgot the quote, know any online places that may having what I need?


----------



## stocksux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Flipping the ends can make a difference. Moving the top piece to the bottom and vice versa. Or in your case just flipping the tube.
> 
> You should be able to get at least 90 degrees of adjustment on each while still being air tight and using a thicker or thinner oring makes a difference.


I tried flipping the tube I also tried swapping the tube with the other one I have, but no change. I tried orientating it all so things lined up the way I wanted to while being as tight as possible and filled it with water over the sink, but I don't think it'll hold up. Even while wiping water off that had gotten on the outside from filling it, I could see water seeping out. This is becoming frustrating.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Flipping the ends can make a difference. Moving the top piece to the bottom and vice versa. Or in your case just flipping the tube.
> 
> You should be able to get at least 90 degrees of adjustment on each while still being air tight and using a thicker or thinner oring makes a difference.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried flipping the tube I also tried swapping the tube with the other one I have, but no change. I tried orientating it all so things lined up the way I wanted to while being as tight as possible and filled it with water over the sink, but I don't think it'll hold up. Even while wiping water off that had gotten on the outside from filling it, I could see water seeping out. This is becoming frustrating.
Click to expand...

Have you made sure the O-rings are correctly seated? This could be causing your issue. I double checked my EK Res x3 and flipped the caps. They don't line up in that configuration. But when I put them back they line up just fine with a slight snug feeling when lining them up. Shouldn't hurt the O-rings as long as you don't hamfist the caps.

But if one or both of the O-rings aren't squarely seated, I can see how they could cause difficulties.

Also I would suggest picking up a jug of distilled or using an air tester in the future. Tap water can leave behind calcification marks.









~Ceadder


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1schu*


Any of this, just keep in mind the diameter ( I think its 60)...and also it might be worth going for a 2.5..3 mm thick one so you have more room to play.

NB.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Seeing what he just said I assume the kit should'v had o-rings already in the packet ?! (I don't use/have your pump/reservoir kit and what I have didn't had any rings.. confused now..)


----------



## stocksux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you made sure the O-rings are correctly seated? This could be causing your issue. I double checked my EK Res x3 and flipped the caps. They don't line up in that configuration. But when I put them back they line up just fine with a slight snug feeling when lining them up. Shouldn't hurt the O-rings as long as you don't hamfist the caps.
> 
> But if one or both of the O-rings aren't squarely seated, I can see how they could cause difficulties.
> 
> Also I would suggest picking up a jug of distilled or using an air tester in the future. Tap water can leave behind calcification marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I used distilled. Just saying I did it over the sink


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Does anyone from EK know wich x370 boards will get waterblocks? Cooling the vrm on ryzen seems to be important for oc so choosing a board that has a waterblock coming would be my plan.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1schu*
> 
> I opened a ticket with EK support and this is the response....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for contacting us.
> I'm really sorry to hear about the reported problem.
> 
> Sadly we did have a couple of similar reports from a couple of users, but the funny thing is, they all used the same coolant as you - Mayhems X1
> I guess this coolant just isn't good with our products. Can't say how come there are no problems with the Aqua ones, but this is what it looks like.
> Please know though that this has absolutely no effect on the performance of the water block and you can still use it, but it just doesn't look nice.
> 
> I would suggest opening another RMA or just updating the one you already had for this water block and go over it with our RMA guys.
> If you can't reopen it please let me know and we will arrange it some other way.
> 
> We sincerely apologize for the inconvenience and thank you for understanding.
> 
> 
> 
> So basically they are blaming it on Mayhems X1 coolant yet my Aquacomputer nickel gpu blocks are in perfect condition...sounds legit lol


I still find this weird since I had nickel blocks with X1 Emerald Green a while ago and they were fine. So i'm not 100% sure it's the X1 fault









Let me know what the RMA team will do, please.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sky-way*
> 
> Just received my EK supremacy EVO (nickel acetal) and I'm going through the box to make sure I have everything. Did they stop including additional jet plates? It seems I didn't get any extras in the box, everything else is here just no jet plates. I don't really need them (it's already set up out of the box for lga 115x) but I'm wondering if I should return it or just keep it?


Sorry about that, you should have receive them. Open a ticket on our website and we'll send you the missing jet plates. Did you receive your 2011 socket screws and the extra insert?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Does anyone from EK know wich x370 boards will get waterblocks? Cooling the vrm on ryzen seems to be important for oc so choosing a board that has a waterblock coming would be my plan.


Not yet but I hope we will have some kind of list soon.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I still find this weird since I had nickel blocks with X1 Emerald Green a while ago and they were fine. So i'm not 100% sure it's the X1 fault
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what the RMA team will do, please.
> Sorry about that, you should have receive them. Open a ticket on our website and we'll send you the missing jet plates. Did you receive your 2011 socket screws and the extra insert?
> Not yet but I hope we will have some kind of list soon.


Speaking of jet plates...
The extra jet plates I received with my EK-Supremacy EVO in the EK-KIT X360 have rust marks on them and small "pearls" of metal, I assume from the cutting process. Therefore I was unable to use the 2011-v3 socket jet plate.
I can take some pictures of them and post them here.
Also, the Vardar fans that came with the kit make a weird noise when starting, you can listen to it

__
https://soundcloud.com/eduard-burlacu-808478901%2Fsets%2Fvardar-noise
.

Do these defects qualify for a replacement? Of course, I am only looking for replacing the fan and the jet plates, not the whole thing


----------



## Sky-way

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Sorry about that, you should have receive them. Open a ticket on our website and we'll send you the missing jet plates. Did you receive your 2011 socket screws and the extra insert?
> Not yet but I hope we will have some kind of list soon.


I have already opened a ticket. The 2011 screws and insert 2 were included but jetplate 2 and 3 were not. I bought off Newegg if that makes any difference,


----------



## Ceadderman

I was gifted a Supremacy EVO, how difficult would it be to get the 2011 standoffs and the Jetplates. I only got the one which was pre-installed from the factory and none of the 2011 standoffs.









~Ceadder


----------



## FXformat

I think I have some, I know I have the standoffs, they're shorter than the 1151 platform. Jet plate if you give me a pic of what it looks like I'll go through my box. You can have it if it's in my box

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I was gifted a Supremacy EVO, how difficult would it be to get the 2011 standoffs and the Jetplates. I only got the one which was pre-installed from the factory and none of the 2011 standoffs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


----------



## Sky-way

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I was gifted a Supremacy EVO, how difficult would it be to get the 2011 standoffs and the Jetplates. I only got the one which was pre-installed from the factory and none of the 2011 standoffs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


2011 standoffs:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-cpu-ezmount-ltx-lga2011-add-on-nickel.html

J4 jet plate (the only single jet plate available on performance-pcs) which they say works with 2011:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-jet-supremacy-j4-high-performance-internal-block-plate.html

And here's the full evo precisemount kit including all standoffs and j2 jetplate:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-supremacy-evo-precisemount-nickel.html#Specifications


----------



## Sky-way

I bought an Alphacool vpp655 vario used off the forums here and I ordered an EK Revo acetal top for it. I couldn't find any information on whether those two are compatible, I just assumed it would work. Anyone here have that combo or know if it fits without leaking?


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sky-way*
> 
> I bought an Alphacool vpp655 vario used off the forums here and I ordered an EK Revo acetal top for it. I couldn't find any information on whether those two are compatible, I just assumed it would work. Anyone here have that combo or know if it fits without leaking?


That is just a re-branded laing D5 vario. The only difference between D5 pumps is the internal pcb and rear cap no matter the brand. It should work with any D5 top without issues.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> That is just a re-branded laing D5 vario. The only difference between D5 pumps is the internal pcb and rear cap no matter the brand. It should work with any D5 top without issues.


Actually it is NOT a D5, if you are not sure it's best to not say anything.

The VPP755 and the EK tops are not a 100% guarantee. I had no real luck myself but others got the top to fit enough to not leak.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sky-way*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I was gifted a Supremacy EVO, how difficult would it be to get the 2011 standoffs and the Jetplates. I only got the one which was pre-installed from the factory and none of the 2011 standoffs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2011 standoffs:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-cpu-ezmount-ltx-lga2011-add-on-nickel.html
> 
> J4 jet plate (the only single jet plate available on performance-pcs) which they say works with 2011:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-jet-supremacy-j4-high-performance-internal-block-plate.html
> 
> And here's the full evo precisemount kit including all standoffs and j2 jetplate:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-supremacy-evo-precisemount-nickel.html#Specifications
Click to expand...

I know I can purchase them. They just didn't come with the block. Thank you anyway.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> That is just a re-branded laing D5 vario. The only difference between D5 pumps is the internal pcb and rear cap no matter the brand. It should work with any D5 top without issues.
> 
> 
> 
> Actually it is NOT a D5, if you are not sure it's best to not say anything.
> 
> The VPP755 and the EK tops are not a 100% guarantee. I had no real luck myself but others got the top to fit enough to not leak.
Click to expand...

Pretty sure that he was asking about VPP655 not VP755. I believe it would work, *BUT* I will defer to your experience whether or not it would since I have never owned that D5.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sky-way

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Actually it is NOT a D5, if you are not sure it's best to not say anything.
> 
> The VPP755 and the EK tops are not a 100% guarantee. I had no real luck myself but others got the top to fit enough to not leak.


I bought a VPP655 vario, not the new VPP755. I was looking at that pump but found the 655 at a really good price. Thanks anyways though


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Speaking of jet plates...
> The extra jet plates I received with my EK-Supremacy EVO in the EK-KIT X360 have rust marks on them and small "pearls" of metal, I assume from the cutting process. Therefore I was unable to use the 2011-v3 socket jet plate.
> I can take some pictures of them and post them here.
> Also, the Vardar fans that came with the kit make a weird noise when starting, you can listen to it
> 
> __
> https://soundcloud.com/eduard-burlacu-808478901%2Fsets%2Fvardar-noise
> .
> 
> Do these defects qualify for a replacement? Of course, I am only looking for replacing the fan and the jet plates, not the whole thing


Open a ticket on our website about those 2 issues.

The "rust" on the jetplates, isn't. It's a simple marking left by the laser cutter in the stainless steel. It's fine.....but those "pearls" aren't and you should ask for replacement jetplates.

About your fans, make sure that the blades don't hit anything because it sounded like that. And if it doesn't hit anything, include the sound clip in your ticket to help the support team decide about them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I was gifted a Supremacy EVO, how difficult would it be to get the 2011 standoffs and the Jetplates. I only got the one which was pre-installed from the factory and none of the 2011 standoffs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Did you recieved it as a new item? If it was new and you didn't get the 2011 screws, the extra jetplates and possibly the extra insert then it's not right. Open a ticket on our website and we'll provide you the extra hardware you should have got.

Link for the ticket : https://www.ekwb.com/customer-care/


----------



## bluej511

Glad ekwb is sending out free am4 brackets and backplates. I cannot wait to get my hands on ryzen, been meaning to update my i5 4690k to an i7 or ryzen, glad it came out promising. Can't be the 450€ price either.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty sure that he was asking about VPP655 not VP755. I believe it would work, *BUT* I will defer to your experience whether or not it would since I have never owned that D5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sky-way*
> 
> I bought a VPP655 vario, not the new VPP755. I was looking at that pump but found the 655 at a really good price. Thanks anyways though


Lol yeah I have to take my own advice then. I apologize to you and @hidethecookies for my mistaken reading. You will be fine with the two, as he said.


----------



## f1schu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I still find this weird since I had nickel blocks with X1 Emerald Green a while ago and they were fine. So i'm not 100% sure it's the X1 fault
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what the RMA team will do, please.
> Sorry about that, you should have receive them. Open a ticket on our website and we'll send you the missing jet plates. Did you receive your 2011 socket screws and the extra insert?
> Not yet but I hope we will have some kind of list soon.


Yeah im also not convinced as my AC nickel blocks are completely unaffected.
Anyways they are sending me a replacement and im sending the old one back for analysis as requested.
Have to say the response time was super quick and customer service spot on so Kudos to EK for that.
Just in case I will be using AC DP Ultra coolant instead of Mayhems X1.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1schu*
> 
> Yeah im also not convinced as my AC nickel blocks are completely unaffected.
> Anyways they are sending me a replacement and im sending the old one back for analysis as requested.
> Have to say the response time was super quick and customer service spot on so Kudos to EK for that.
> Just in case I will be using AC DP Ultra coolant instead of Mayhems X1.


Good


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Glad ekwb is sending out free am4 brackets and backplates. I cannot wait to get my hands on ryzen, been meaning to update my i5 4690k to an i7 or ryzen, glad it came out promising. Can't be the 450€ price either.


Where did you read about ek sending free brackets and backplates? Had to pay 20€ for mine, can I get a refund?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Where did you read about ek sending free brackets and backplates? Had to pay 20€ for mine, can I get a refund?


Someone posted on here, so i contacted ekwb support and told em i read on overclock.net that theyre providing backplates and brackets for AM4 hardware. I got a reply rather quick from EKWB USA support then one from EKWB in Slovakia telling me this.

"EKWB Support (Igor) (EKWB Support)

Feb 24, 13:22 CET
Hello Vicken

I have already instructed our guys in shipping to send you the AM4 upgrade to the address you specified and I hope you get it soon.

Best regards, Igor"

So hopefully it shows up soon, i ordered my 1700x today need to order my ram and mobo in the next few days.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Speaking of jet plates...
> The extra jet plates I received with my EK-Supremacy EVO in the EK-KIT X360 have rust marks on them and small "pearls" of metal, I assume from the cutting process. Therefore I was unable to use the 2011-v3 socket jet plate.
> I can take some pictures of them and post them here.
> Also, the Vardar fans that came with the kit make a weird noise when starting, you can listen to it
> 
> __
> https://soundcloud.com/eduard-burlacu-808478901%2Fsets%2Fvardar-noise
> .
> 
> Do these defects qualify for a replacement? Of course, I am only looking for replacing the fan and the jet plates, not the whole thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Open a ticket on our website about those 2 issues.
> 
> The "rust" on the jetplates, isn't. It's a simple marking left by the laser cutter in the stainless steel. It's fine.....but those "pearls" aren't and you should ask for replacement jetplates.
> 
> About your fans, make sure that the blades don't hit anything because it sounded like that. And if it doesn't hit anything, include the sound clip in your ticket to help the support team decide about them.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I was gifted a Supremacy EVO, how difficult would it be to get the 2011 standoffs and the Jetplates. I only got the one which was pre-installed from the factory and none of the 2011 standoffs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Did you recieved it as a new item? If it was new and you didn't get the 2011 screws, the extra jetplates and possibly the extra insert then it's not right. Open a ticket on our website and we'll provide you the extra hardware you should have got.
> 
> Link for the ticket : https://www.ekwb.com/customer-care/
Click to expand...

Yup, NIB and lacking those items, including the insert? Yeah I don't have one of those either.









Thank you for the link.









Just submitted support ticket using that link. Keeping my fingers crossed.









~Ceadder


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Lol yeah I have to take my own advice then. I apologize to you and @hidethecookies for my mistaken reading. You will be fine with the two, as he said.


No problem honest mistake.


----------



## nikuk

I should take nice pics, but I don't really want to bother moving it out of the poorly lit corner.


----------



## MrMD

Quick compatibility check

Wanting to mount a D5 revo combo onto a Fan which will be on a rad using a Uni holder as so D5Combo>Uni holder>Fan>Rad>Case

Rad will be an Ek- PE 240 just want to check that the uni holders screws are compatible with the rad and wont break the threading?

Or am i better just doing it the other way round and doing Combo>uni holder>Rad>Fans>Case using the 5mm screws that come with the rad?

Edit:I just had a brain fart,i dont even need to use the uni holder screws to mount the bracket at all do i, i can just use the 30mm screws that come with the rad to do this the way i wanted to initially cant i ?


----------



## nyk20z3

Quick question for you guys -

I am almost done with the water cooling loop in my In Win 509. I am will be running a EK D5 pump/res combo, EK PE 360 with XSPC static pressure fans. I am cooling a Intel 6700K and 980 Ti Extreme Gaming. I dont plan on overclocking much but i might push the limits some in the future so my question is should i stick with just the single EK PE 360 or add another just to have the extra cooling capacity?

I have the room for it and i know its complete overkill but as enthusiast we always want to add more if we can, the question i ask myself is the $ worth the possible minimal returns on my investment ?

Here is the case, both rad and fans will be living in the front radiator chamber -


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Quick question for you guys -
> 
> I am almost done with the water cooling loop in my In Win 509. I am will be running a EK D5 pump/res combo, EK PE 360 with XSPC static pressure fans. I am cooling a Intel 6700K and 980 Ti Extreme Gaming. I dont plan on overclocking much but i might push the limits some in the future so my question is should i stick with just the single EK PE 360 or add another just to have the extra cooling capacity?
> 
> I have the room for it and i know its complete overkill but as enthusiast we always want to add more if we can, the question i ask myself is the $ worth the possible minimal returns on my investment ?
> 
> Here is the case, both rad and fans will be living in the front radiator chamber -


This is OCN, there is no overkill. Look at it this way adding anothet rad is investment is sound level not temps


----------



## nikuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> This is OCN, there is no overkill. Look at it this way adding anothet rad is investment is sound level not temps


this.

I'm running 2 360s and 1 280 because of parts I had on hand.


----------



## Sazexa

Some goodies of the EK RVEX RGB Monoblock.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Quick compatibility check
> 
> Wanting to mount a D5 revo combo onto a Fan which will be on a rad using a Uni holder as so D5Combo>Uni holder>Fan>Rad>Case
> 
> Rad will be an Ek- PE 240 just want to check that the uni holders screws are compatible with the rad and wont break the threading?
> 
> Or am i better just doing it the other way round and doing Combo>uni holder>Rad>Fans>Case using the 5mm screws that come with the rad?
> 
> Edit:I just had a brain fart,i dont even need to use the uni holder screws to mount the bracket at all do i, i can just use the 30mm screws that come with the rad to do this the way i wanted to initially cant i ?


Yes, you can use the 30mm ones.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Quick question for you guys -
> 
> I am almost done with the water cooling loop in my In Win 509. I am will be running a EK D5 pump/res combo, EK PE 360 with XSPC static pressure fans. I am cooling a Intel 6700K and 980 Ti Extreme Gaming. I dont plan on overclocking much but i might push the limits some in the future so my question is should i stick with just the single EK PE 360 or add another just to have the extra cooling capacity?
> 
> I have the room for it and i know its complete overkill but as enthusiast we always want to add more if we can, the question i ask myself is the $ worth the possible minimal returns on my investment ?
> 
> Here is the case, both rad and fans will be living in the front radiator chamber -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Will you overclock your CPU and GPU?

If you don't intend to or only do a mild OC, the 360 might be okay.


----------



## becks

Anyone knows the thickness of the thermal pads on these card: 1080 Seahawk EK X ?
Thank you.


----------



## stocksux

Can anyone help me out with a quick question? I'm filling a loop and every time I turn the pump off, the reservoir fills back up with water that had been sucked out and into the system. Why is this happening?
1. Fill res (250ml)
2. Turn on pump
3. Res empties out (almost all the way)
4. Turn pump off
5. Water flows back into res (fills back up by 50% volume)

Is this because the Radiator is at the top of the loop thus gravity is allowing the water fall out of it and it's running back down into the res? Here's a pic of the CPU loop


----------



## Kronos8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> Can anyone help me out with a quick question? I'm filling a loop and every time I turn the pump off, the reservoir fills back up with water that had been sucked out and into the system. Why is this happening?
> 1. Fill res (250ml)
> 2. Turn on pump
> 3. Res empties out (almost all the way)
> 4. Turn pump off
> 5. Water flows back into res (fills back up by 50% volume)


http://www.overclock.net/t/1623606/reservoir-fill-to-top-or#post_25856698
and
http://www.overclock.net/t/1623606/reservoir-fill-to-top-or#post_25856995


----------



## KaffieneKing

To me it sounds like back flow, I use a spare res to fill my loop so I can effectively have the res higher than the rad.

If you happen to have a spare res tube, top, fittings and tube that is!

Edit: if the res doesn't fill all the way by back flow just keep filling and cycling the res. If you had soft tubing I'd say lift top of res out of the case whilst case is lying flat but that isn't an option here.


----------



## Reaper28

What the other two guys said ^. Mine does the same thing, once there isn't any air in the loop it won't happen as much. Just leave about an inch of gap between the res top so it won't overflow. What ever you do don't fill the res completely to the top of you may have a flood issue eventually


----------



## stocksux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> What the other two guys said ^. Mine does the same thing, once there isn't any air in the loop it won't happen as much. Just leave about an inch of gap between the res top so it won't overflow. What ever you do don't fill the res completely to the top of you may have a flood issue eventually


Really trying to avoid a flood in my case lol. Already found one fitting not seated properly so had to drain and seat fitting. Then in the GPU loop I realized I hadn't tightened the stop fittings on the top side of the GPU block so Water started seeping out and had to frantically tighten those while patting with a paper towel. Then found one other on the fitting of the out port on the GPU loop pump. That was due to a tricky bend that I mangled and it apparently wouldn't sit right plus tube wasn't quite a perfect circle anymore.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Anyone knows the thickness of the thermal pads on these card: 1080 Seahawk EK X ?
> Thank you.


You'll get the info in the 3rd task of Step 1 here : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109831564.pdf

Basically :

Thermal Pad E - 0.5mm (RAM 8x) - (EAN: 3830046996688)
Thermal Pad F - 1mm (120x16mm) - (EAN: 3830046996732)


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> Really trying to avoid a flood in my case lol. Already found one fitting not seated properly so had to drain and seat fitting. Then in the GPU loop I realized I hadn't tightened the stop fittings on the top side of the GPU block so Water started seeping out and had to frantically tighten those while patting with a paper towel. Then found one other on the fitting of the out port on the GPU loop pump. That was due to a tricky bend that I mangled and it apparently wouldn't sit right plus tube wasn't quite a perfect circle anymore.


Lol yeah I know how you feel, I had a hose slip out of a compression fitting and start leaking everywhere luckily the side panel was off and I was able to rip the power cord out before any real damage was done.

Gets interesting when you're using dye too


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*


If I have 1.0 and 1.5 lyeing around here ...do you think its OK to use them or I will have to go ahead and buy some 0.5 as well...

NB. Thank you for the quick replies


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> What the other two guys said ^. Mine does the same thing, once there isn't any air in the loop it won't happen as much. Just leave about an inch of gap between the res top so it won't overflow. What ever you do don't fill the res completely to the top of you may have a flood issue eventually
> 
> 
> 
> Really trying to avoid a flood in my case lol. Already found one fitting not seated properly so had to drain and seat fitting. Then in the GPU loop I realized I hadn't tightened the stop fittings on the top side of the GPU block so Water started seeping out and had to frantically tighten those while patting with a paper towel. Then found one other on the fitting of the out port on the GPU loop pump. That was due to a tricky bend that I mangled and it apparently wouldn't sit right plus tube wasn't quite a perfect circle anymore.
Click to expand...

And yet the same folks who have the most horror stories of leak checks gone south are the first to dismiss spending a few $$ to get an air testing setup . . . .









Go figure . .

D.


----------



## taoist

Hi EK friends.

I recently built (build post) for my first custom liquid loop. I have an EK-XRES 140 PWM D5, for which I made a custom adapter plate to mount to my Phanteks P400, as well as an EK Supremacy MX (copper/acetal). Was the Supremacy MX supposed to be the hardest thing in the world to mount? I've mounted my fair share of air coolers and various heatsinks, but this was was a m*^#@!&%ker. My temps seem to be in check, but I just felt like it was such a messy installation. Anyway, pictures of the adapter plate and completed build below. Sorry in advance for the quality.

tao

Pictures below.


Spoiler: Warning: Potatoes!


----------



## Sazexa

Did EK change the color of their radiators? I've had a PE 360 for almost a year now. I just ordered a new one and this new one has a completely different paint finish and color. It's like a powder coat dark gray, and my old one is like a semi-gloss black. Pretty ticked off. :/ Means I need to paint two radiators now, so they both match.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Did EK change the color of their radiators? I've had a PE 360 for almost a year now. I just ordered a new one and this new one has a completely different paint finish and color. It's like a powder coat dark gray, and my old one is like a semi-gloss black. Pretty ticked off. :/ Means I need to paint two radiators now, so they both match.


It's always been matte aluminum on the floating core rads from EK, so I am not sure where the old one got a semi-gloss finish from. Mind sharing a picture of the two?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's always been matte aluminum on the floating core rads from EK, so I am not sure where the old one got a semi-gloss finish from. Mind sharing a picture of the two?


My phone doesn't show it well, but they're extremely different. Actually, this one in particular is just very different than any of my five other EK rads.





The top one is the old, bottom one is the new.


----------



## VSG

Different paint? Maybe Akira can help.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Different paint? Maybe Akira can help.


Very different. Ideally, I'd like both to be in the top one's finish. @akira749 are you lurking about?


----------



## NetopyrMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Im running a PE-360 ...


which fans do you use on this thing? im planning to buy it into my PC-O7SX (but need to remove dust filter holder and make own holder in work, no problem)
still consider between Vardars and NB-eLoops ....


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NetopyrMan*
> 
> which fans do you use on this thing? im playning to buy it into my PC-O7SX (but need to remove dust filter holder and make own holder in work, no problem)
> still consider between Vardars and NB-eLoops ....


Im using Corsair ML120 Pro LED fans, work very well on radiators and they are very quiet which is how I like it







idle up to 55 degrees C my fans don't exceed 750RPM, above that they ramp up quite aggressively.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Did EK change the color of their radiators? I've had a PE 360 for almost a year now. I just ordered a new one and this new one has a completely different paint finish and color. It's like a powder coat dark gray, and my old one is like a semi-gloss black. Pretty ticked off. :/ Means I need to paint two radiators now, so they both match.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Different paint? Maybe Akira can help.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Very different. Ideally, I'd like both to be in the top one's finish. @akira749 are you lurking about?


I'm not aware of any change regarding that. I'll try to know a bit more.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's always been matte aluminum on the floating core rads from EK, so I am not sure where the old one got a semi-gloss finish from. Mind sharing a picture of the two?


Yeah, I have an original release and recent version and they are decidedly matte black/grey


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Yeah, I have an original release and recent version and they are decidedly matte black/grey


That's really annoying lol


----------



## bluej511

I love how ek reps on here dont answer questions and i get a faster response actually emailing ek directly lol.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> I love how ek reps on here dont answer questions and i get a faster response actually emailing ek directly lol.


Sorry, did I missed something you asked?


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> My phone doesn't show it well, but they're extremely different. Actually, this one in particular is just very different than any of my five other EK rads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one is the old, bottom one is the new.


Sazexa what case is that?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Sorry, did I missed something you asked?


Quite a while ago good sir but its been resolved now so no worries.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Sazexa what case is that?


The Lian Li PC-O11


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Quite a while ago good sir but its been resolved now so no worries.


I'm very sorry about that. It's not my thing to ignore customers questions.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I'm very sorry about that. It's not my thing to ignore customers questions.


Its ok things happen no worries. I asked if ek was providing am4 brackets/backplates free of charge, i emailed support anyways and got a response very quickly and my am4 kit was (supposedly) sent out the same day so hope it comes soon, from Slovakia to France is only 1000km so i hope it shows up in one straight shot.


----------



## spddmn24

How would an xe 360 radiator do with a 7700k and gtx 1070 both overclocked? If HWinfo is accurate max load will be ~300-330w tops. Fans are 2150rpm gentle typhoons. Fan noise would only be a concern gaming if I could hear them over my headphones. I could fit another 240mm at the front of my case, but I would rather not spend another $150 on the radiator/fans. Any idea how much adding the gpu to the loop (230 watts) would raise the water temp at 1800+ rpm fan speed?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spddmn24*
> 
> How would an xe 360 radiator do with a 7700k and gtx 1070 both overclocked? If HWinfo is accurate max load will be ~300-330w tops. Fans are 2150rpm gentle typhoons. Fan noise would only be a concern gaming if I could hear them over my headphones. I could fit another 240mm at the front of my case, but I would rather not spend another $150 on the radiator/fans. Any idea how much adding the gpu to the loop (230 watts) would raise the water temp at 1800+ rpm fan speed?


Depends on which fans and static pressure. Idk if the xe has dense fins or sparse fins id have to look.

To put it into perspective, i had a 360 with a 4690k and r9 390 (slightly more wattage then you at load), my water temp used to be about 38°C or so with my alphacool 360 (i think its 45mm thick) i was even using it mounted outside my case. I added another 240 and changed my case (my antec 302 couldnt even fit 2 rads to begin with lol) and i ended up going down to about 29°C or lower in the same ambient temps.

Got my cpu to never go above 50°C (running it bare die at 1.21v) and my gpu barely reaches 40°C in an ambient of about 22-23 with no ac or airflow. If i open a window temps drop even more. I would say its worth the extra 150 if temps matter to you. Youll also be able to run your fans a bit lower. If you want decent temps a 360 might reach its limit for a ▲10°C, both my rads i get about 6-7°C between case temp and water temp in 99% of games.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spddmn24*
> 
> How would an xe 360 radiator do with a 7700k and gtx 1070 both overclocked? If HWinfo is accurate max load will be ~300-330w tops. Fans are 2150rpm gentle typhoons. Fan noise would only be a concern gaming if I could hear them over my headphones. I could fit another 240mm at the front of my case, but I would rather not spend another $150 on the radiator/fans. Any idea how much adding the gpu to the loop (230 watts) would raise the water temp at 1800+ rpm fan speed?


It would do very well, and you can decrease fan speeds slightly also if need be.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spddmn24*
> 
> How would an xe 360 radiator do with a 7700k and gtx 1070 both overclocked?


I have an XE 360 - it holds my 6800K overclocked at 3.9 GHz in Handbrake (100% usage) at 54 degrees Celsius with rads at 100 RPM.
It will hold your setup with no issues.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Depends on which fans and static pressure. Idk if the xe has dense fins or sparse fins id have to look.


The XE 360 has 16 FPI. It's rather dense and thick, you need higher pressure vents than for other vents.
With that being said, the sheer size of the rad makes it relatively easy to even passive cool at idle. My CPU sits cooled passively at idle, that is browsing and media playing, the CPU temperature sits at around 52-53 degrees Celsius.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Its ok things happen no worries. I asked if ek was providing am4 brackets/backplates free of charge, i emailed support anyways and got a response very quickly and my am4 kit was (supposedly) sent out the same day so hope it comes soon, from Slovakia to France is only 1000km so i hope it shows up in one straight shot.


When was it shipped?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> When was it shipped?


This is the message i got on the 24th.

"EKWB Suppo

EKWB Support (Igor) (EKWB Support)

Feb 24, 13:22 CET
Hello Vicken

I have already instructed our guys in shipping to send you the AM4 upgrade to the address you specified and I hope you get it soon.

Best regards, Igor"

I'm in France and only about 1000km away from EKWB so should be rather quick.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> This is the message i got on the 24th.
> 
> "EKWB Suppo
> 
> EKWB Support (Igor) (EKWB Support)
> 
> Feb 24, 13:22 CET
> Hello Vicken
> 
> I have already instructed our guys in shipping to send you the AM4 upgrade to the address you specified and I hope you get it soon.
> 
> Best regards, Igor"
> 
> I'm in France and only about 1000km away from EKWB so should be rather quick.


Let me know if you don't get it by the end of the week.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Can I ask why some people get the am4 kit for supremacy evo for free and some have to pay for it? Makes no sense...


----------



## ref

This is a really stupid question, I know, but bear with me. It's my first time building a custom loop.









Is it safe to clean the nickel plated surface of a Supremacy Evo with 99% isopropyl alcohol?

Put a little too much thermal paste on by mistake


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> This is a really stupid question, I know, but bear with me. It's my first time building a custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it safe to clean the nickel plated surface of a Supremacy Evo with 99% isopropyl alcohol?
> 
> Put a little too much thermal paste on by mistake


Absolutely. That nickel plating stuff is damn safe, dare i say you could probably even use 100% alcohol haha.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Can I ask why some people get the am4 kit for supremacy evo for free and some have to pay for it? Makes no sense...


Seems a bit weird right? I think the people paying for it might be the one not asking for a free kit and just ordering the parts out right? I didn't even have to pay for shipping so I'm guessing im getting the backplate and bracket only. The people ordering the kit might be getting the bracket and the am3/am4 backplate kit instead of just one backplate (which i dont think ekwb sell individually)


----------



## ref

So I just installed the Supremacy Evo, I'm just a little concerned I may have tightened it too much, but not sure...

One of the screw caps w. spring I turned perfectly fine until I couldn't do it anymore without using force.

The other 3 I did the same but it seemed to be much more difficult to get to that point where it wouldn't turn anymore unless I used force, in addition the springs were kinda making a squeaking noise while I was turning until I got to that point.

Using a 2011-3 board so just using the springs and standoffs and caps.

Hopefully this isn't an issue!


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> So I just installed the Supremacy Evo, I'm just a little concerned I may have tightened it too much, but not sure...
> 
> One of the screw caps w. spring I turned perfectly fine until I couldn't do it anymore without using force.
> 
> The other 3 I did the same but it seemed to be much more difficult to get to that point where it wouldn't turn anymore unless I used force, in addition the springs were kinda making a squeaking noise while I was turning until I got to that point.
> 
> Using a 2011-3 board so just using the springs and standoffs and caps.
> 
> Hopefully this isn't an issue!


If you tightened one screw all the way down without doing the other 3 that's usually what happens. You need to tighten 2 at a time PROGRESSIVELY, ie do a few turns on opposing corners then do the other 2 on opposing corners and so on. I haven't had issues with mine, only thing i could thing of was if 3 of yours went on crooked and ended up cross threading.


----------



## Ceadderman

Just got finished watching Tom's @C3D review of Crosshair VI Hero. Someone asked the question if there needs to be a new AM4 mounting bracket. Fear not, if you already have the AM3 backplate and bracket, you will not need the AM4 plate and bracket if you have ASUS MB. Tom swapped in the stock AM3 backplate an it fit perfectly with no shimmy. So with ASUS you're in the clear. I am not ready to fully guarantee this for other board manufacturers but it's nice to see ASUS use the dual point mounting arrangement to keep things reasonable for previous socket owners.

















See for yourself.













~Ceadder


----------



## Soggysilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> Can anyone help me out with a quick question? I'm filling a loop and every time I turn the pump off, the reservoir fills back up with water that had been sucked out and into the system. Why is this happening?
> 1. Fill res (250ml)
> 2. Turn on pump
> 3. Res empties out (almost all the way)
> 4. Turn pump off
> 5. Water flows back into res (fills back up by 50% volume)
> 
> Is this because the Radiator is at the top of the loop thus gravity is allowing the water fall out of it and it's running back down into the res? Here's a pic of the CPU loop


Hydrostatics. The downside here is that I suspect you have entrained air in your loop during operation which isn't ideal.


----------



## Soggysilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> Really trying to avoid a flood in my case lol. Already found one fitting not seated properly so had to drain and seat fitting. Then in the GPU loop I realized I hadn't tightened the stop fittings on the top side of the GPU block so Water started seeping out and had to frantically tighten those while patting with a paper towel. Then found one other on the fitting of the out port on the GPU loop pump. That was due to a tricky bend that I mangled and it apparently wouldn't sit right plus tube wasn't quite a perfect circle anymore.


I highly recommend utilizing an ATX power jumper that allows the 12v to operate without putting power on the main board. This allows the operator to setup fill and leak check the functional system prior to powering sensitive hardware. A decently bled and pressured up system should leak within an hour of operation if its going to leak at all. Paper towels / blue shop towels that are highly absorbent will help here.

Physically moving or tampering with lines can put torque on a fitting as well causing it to loosen and leak. Always check a system after it has been relocated.

It is also prudent to keep spare o-rings for your fittings, as damage to a ring should immediately correlate the ring with the garbage can.









One of my reservoirs is at the lowest point of the loop, the res. fill port is used to bleed / fill and requires plumbers tape to insure that when the system pressurizes that it does not leak. Plexi taps in the past could suffer from poor fluid sealing characteristics due to the difficulty in working with these materials. I have seen it with acetal as well but its typically not as bad when tapped and fitted with correct rings. Additionally do not over-torque fittings, this can squeeze a ring deforming it and reduces its sealing characteristics, or worse, damage the threads in the tap by cutting them with the barb threads.


----------



## Soggysilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> This is a really stupid question, I know, but bear with me. It's my first time building a custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it safe to clean the nickel plated surface of a Supremacy Evo with 99% isopropyl alcohol?
> 
> Put a little too much thermal paste on by mistake


Sure. Then there is this:

https://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-60ml-Kit-30ml/dp/B0007TOR08

Which is especially good if you want to get all the crap out of a GPU socket.


----------



## Cozmo85

First to ask when i can order a 1080ti block


----------



## looniam

yeah 1080TI WB . . i mean its been a whole 15 minutes since the card was announced.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> yeah 1080TI WB . . i mean its been a whole 15 minutes since the card was announced.


No wonder people don't like nvidia fanboys, more money then brains lol. I know so many friends buying a 1080 to play at 1080 lol.


----------



## looniam




----------



## Elmy

EK AM4 waterblock works amazing!!!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> So I just installed the Supremacy Evo, I'm just a little concerned I may have tightened it too much, but not sure...
> 
> One of the screw caps w. spring I turned perfectly fine until I couldn't do it anymore without using force.
> 
> The other 3 I did the same but it seemed to be much more difficult to get to that point where it wouldn't turn anymore unless I used force, in addition the springs were kinda making a squeaking noise while I was turning until I got to that point.
> 
> Using a 2011-3 board so just using the springs and standoffs and caps.
> 
> Hopefully this isn't an issue!


You need to progressively screw the thumbscrews in an "X" pattern. It's normal that you sometimes hear the springs make that squeaking sound.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> First to ask when i can order a 1080ti block


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> yeah 1080TI WB . . i mean its been a whole 15 minutes since the card was announced.


Our Titan XP blocks are fully compatible for the 1080Ti models so you can already buy them.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> So I just installed the Supremacy Evo, I'm just a little concerned I may have tightened it too much, but not sure...
> 
> One of the screw caps w. spring I turned perfectly fine until I couldn't do it anymore without using force.
> 
> The other 3 I did the same but it seemed to be much more difficult to get to that point where it wouldn't turn anymore unless I used force, in addition the springs were kinda making a squeaking noise while I was turning until I got to that point.
> 
> Using a 2011-3 board so just using the springs and standoffs and caps.
> 
> Hopefully this isn't an issue!
> 
> 
> 
> You need to progressively screw the thumbscrews in an "X" pattern. It's normal that you sometimes hear the springs make that squeaking sound.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> First to ask when i can order a 1080ti block
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> yeah 1080TI WB . . i mean its been a whole 15 minutes since the card was announced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Our Titan XP blocks are fully compatible for the 1080Ti models so you can already buy them.
Click to expand...

thanks, i just seen that on the site:


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> No wonder people don't like nvidia fanboys, more money then brains lol. I know so many friends buying a 1080 to play at 1080 lol.


I own a 1080. I play at 1080 (well, it's 1920x1200 to be honest)
You might think I wasted money, I think this card was the sweet spot at the time for 3D editing without going Pro (Quadro was indeed too expensive for me).


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I own a 1080. I play at 1080 (well, it's 1920x1200 to be honest)
> You might think I wasted money, I think this card was the sweet spot at the time for 3D editing without going Pro (Quadro was indeed too expensive for me).


Right but you also edit, I'm talking 1080 at 1080 just for gaming lol.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You need to progressively screw the thumbscrews in an "X" pattern. It's normal that you sometimes hear the springs make that squeaking sound.
> 
> Our Titan XP blocks are fully compatible for the 1080Ti models so you can already buy them.


Does this mean the Titan backplates are also compatible? I'd assume so.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Right but you also edit, I'm talking 1080 at 1080 just for gaming lol.


It's better to buy the card first and the monitor later than the other way around.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Does this mean the Titan backplates are also compatible? I'd assume so.


Yep


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yep


Sweet! Now I need to wait for some benchmarks and see if it's worth changing from 1080's to 1080 Ti's... Probably not, but it might not stop me.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I own a 1080. I play at 1080 (well, it's 1920x1200 to be honest)
> You might think I wasted money, I think this card was the sweet spot at the time for 3D editing without going Pro (Quadro was indeed too expensive for me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right but you also edit, I'm talking 1080 at 1080 just for gaming lol.
Click to expand...

since we will talk graphics in the EK club(?)

guess you haven't noticed but there a few games where a 1080 @1080 is ~60fps, DE:MD and WD2. still there is DSR to 1440/4K so no shiny AA and less jaggies. even a 980ti is overkill for 1080p but doesn't mean i can't use all of it.

_better to have and not need than need and not have._


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well just snagged a EK 1080 Acetal/Nickel block & backplate thanks to the marketplace, just need to get my 1080 SC I'm buying from a friend when I get back to Atlanta


----------



## becks

Any chance we will see a Gtx 1080ti Sea Hawk Ek in the future ? (water cooled from factory)


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Any chance we will see a Gtx 1080ti Sea Hawk Ek in the future ? (water cooled from factory)


They should make a Hydro Copper version, since they have a Hydro Copper 1080 right now, it's just more expensive but looks a lot better IMO.


----------



## DarthBaggins

more than likely knowing EVGA they will be launching a HydroCopper counterpart since they've always done it in the past


----------



## bluej511

@akira749 i'm still waiting for my bracket/backplate. Damn you ekwb DAMN YOU!!!!!!!!. Now i have no way of installing my 1700x/Aorus board tomorrow,







haha. I knew it would take a while by post but didn't think it would take this long.


----------



## stocksux

Please don't shoot me for the quality of the picture but could anyone offfer suggestions on getting these little bubbles out of the the res on the right? Never got any on the one on the left. The left one fills from the top and the right one fills from the bottom. Could that just be the way it's gonna be? Left res has its radiator above it. It cools the CPU and chipset. The one on the right has its radiator below it and cools a single gpu. Any thoughts??


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> Please don't shoot me for the quality of the picture but could anyone offfer suggestions on getting these little bubbles out of the the res on the right? Never got any on the one on the left. The left one fills from the top and the right one fills from the bottom. Could that just be the way it's gonna be? Left res has its radiator above it. It cools the CPU and chipset. The one on the right has its radiator below it and cools a single gpu. Any thoughts??


Yea just wait a while they'll disappear, pretty sure this happens to everyone. You could shake your case so the water sloshes around if it really bothers you, could always stick a straw or something super clean in there and mix the water around so they end up floating.


----------



## IchiRuki

Hey, everyone. I have a question, I have the Rampage V Edition 10 EK RGB monoblock ready to be installed on my motherboard, but I also have CableMod RGB LED strips, and both the monoblock and the strips connect to the bottom RGB port on the motherboard... is there some kind of splitter I could use to have both things hooked up? Thanks


----------



## Sazexa

Yeah. Just look up "50/50 RGB LED Splitter" on Amazon. I have one. You might also need the male end links as well.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> @akira749 i'm still waiting for my bracket/backplate. Damn you ekwb DAMN YOU!!!!!!!!. Now i have no way of installing my 1700x/Aorus board tomorrow,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha. I knew it would take a while by post but didn't think it would take this long.










sorry

Can you give me your ticket number. I will email them to have a follow-up on this.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry
> 
> Can you give me your ticket number. I will email them to have a follow-up on this.


Surprisingly it actually showed up with my mobo (came with the post office), you guys got the timing just perfect. its already installed and working great. System needs some tweaking and what not but its alright. Everything fit perfect.


----------



## IchiRuki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Yeah. Just look up "50/50 RGB LED Splitter" on Amazon. I have one. You might also need the male end links as well.


+rep

Thanks for this, I have the male links, they come in the box with CableMod strips







ordering the splitter now


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks like I have to purchase 2011 standoffs, jet plates and insert for my EVO block. All because the block was a gift NIB without the sales slip.









I got the block NIB as a gift. It came with everything else, just came missing those things. Oh well.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

I just left the stock jetplate in my EVO instead of cracking it open just to swap the jet plate and I've had zero temp issues.


----------



## IchiRuki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Yeah. Just look up "50/50 RGB LED Splitter" on Amazon. I have one. You might also need the male end links as well.


Will this one do? Because there are none on UK Amazon







I would get the 2way splitter

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Female-4Pin-Extension-Connector-Cable-Wire-Splitter-for-RGB-5050-3528-LED-Strip-/381633120373?var=650720771785&hash=item58db1b4875:m:m3A0rAacoSkNpBHdcaed02w


----------



## nyk20z3

In Win 509 Build -


----------



## Revan654

My small paint mod of my MonoBlock.

It need some small touch up, It's mainly done.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice.









~Ceadder


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Anyone know which, if any, of the HB SLI bridges work with EKs FC block for the TXP? I've got a second TXP on the way so i need a HB bridge now. I haven't looked into it since the TXP launched last year so i'm out of the loop on this.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Anyone know which, if any, of the HB SLI bridges work with EKs FC block for the TXP? I've got a second TXP on the way so i need a HB bridge now. I haven't looked into it since the TXP launched last year so i'm out of the loop on this.


I use EVGA's bridges. Tight fit but the work on my 1080's.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I use EVGA's bridges. Tight fit but the work on my 1080's.


Good to know, thats one of the ones i was thinking would fit.

Anyone know if the zotac bridge fits? That seems to be the most minimalist design of the hb bridges.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Good to know, thats one of the ones i was thinking would fit.
> 
> Anyone know if the zotac bridge fits? That seems to be the most minimalist design of the hb bridges.


It looks to be the same size or slightly smaller than mine. I think it would fit.


----------



## stocksux

@akira749 Will EK be making a 1080ti backplate so I don't have to have it say Titan X on my ti's???


----------



## stocksux

Also does EK know which partner cards are getting blocks for the 1080ti yet?


----------



## Asus11

will there be any other waterblocks for the 1080 ti?

or is it only the titan x pascal block for the FE?


----------



## stocksux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> will there be any other waterblocks for the 1080 ti?
> 
> or is it only the titan x pascal block for the FE?


You literally asked the exact same thing I did the post above you


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol maybe if we ask a third/forth time we'll get a different answer


----------



## Boost240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> In Win 509 Build -


I was thinking of switching out my clear soft tube for matte black and your pics just convinced me to do it!


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boost240*
> 
> I was thinking of switching out my clear soft tube for matte black and your pics just convinced me to do it!


I absolutely love my zmt tubing, doesn't discolor, doesn't seep plasticizer.


----------



## stocksux

I went black hard tubing...love it


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yup ZMT is where it's at:


----------



## skingun

Love ZMT


----------



## catbuster

ZMT is boring


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> ZMT is boring


For soft tubing, I think it's the best looking option.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> @akira749 Will EK be making a 1080ti backplate so I don't have to have it say Titan X on my ti's???


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> Also does EK know which partner cards are getting blocks for the 1080ti yet?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> will there be any other waterblocks for the 1080 ti?
> 
> or is it only the titan x pascal block for the FE?


To all these questions.....we don't know yet. I should be able to know more very soon.


----------



## skingun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> ZMT is boring


Each to their own


----------



## WhiteWulfe

ZMT tubing is downright gorgeous to me ^_^


----------



## bluej511

Not much to look at, setup has change quite a bit. I'm more of a function over form kinda guy.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> ZMT tubing is downright gorgeous to me ^_^


Let me show you some pics of the fuel lines on my old garden tractor then . . . .

or maybe the crankcase scavenging hoses on my outboard motor . . . .

Did I mention the vacuum lines on my old 4X4 Nisan pickup . . .

Exactly the same look, and why I absolutely loathe it for pcs


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Let me show you some pics of the fuel lines on my old garden tractor then . . . .
> 
> or maybe the crankcase scavenging hoses on my outboard motor . . . .
> 
> Did I mention the vacuum lines on my old 4X4 Nisan pickup . . .
> 
> Exactly the same look, and why I absolutely loathe it for pcs


Nah, fuel lines have a somewhat different shade of black going to them if they're soft..... But I'm also the guy who likes the look of aircraft scat ducting, so I suspect our aesthetic preferences are just sliiiiiiightly different.







For those wondering what on earth I'm talking about, it's the flexible ducting they use in aircraft, usually for bringing hot air from one place to another (like say, for cabin heat).


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




^The orange stuff.



I just like stealthy lines. ^_^


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Nah, fuel lines have a somewhat different shade of black going to them if they're soft..... But I'm also the guy who likes the look of aircraft scat ducting, so I suspect our aesthetic preferences are just sliiiiiiightly different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those wondering what on earth I'm talking about, it's the flexible ducting they use in aircraft, usually for bringing hot air from one place to another (like say, for cabin heat).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^The orange stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> I just like stealthy lines. ^_^


Damn sexy, if they made water cooling lines like that in miniature in different colors id so be getting that.

Then again id be the guy with a brass case and copper tubing all hand soldered/welded together haha.


----------



## looniam

i like old garden tractors.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Pepper Ridge Farms:

REMEMBERS


----------



## stocksux

I'm looking at taking my block off my Titan X and putting it on a 1080ti. My question is, can I reuse the thermal pads since things are in the same place on the two cards or do I need to buy a new set of them for the switch?


----------



## becks

@stocksux

Whenever I used to re-paste my gpu-s I never changed pads...and some cards were well over 10 years








so I don't see any problem in re-using them.
The only problem is if hair, dust or other little debris go on to those pads as they are nearly impossible to clean


----------



## DyndaS

I just bought GPU block for MSI gtx1070 Gaming. Question is: Does the flow direction rly matter for gpu block and if, how big differences are?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> I just bought GPU block for MSI gtx1070 Gaming. Question is: Does the flow direction rly matter for gpu block and if, how big differences are?


They say it doesnt, but i prefer to have mine flow from the top down into the fins instead of from below and up thru the fins. Just seems less restrictive that way but im sure ek has tested it both ways for restriction.


----------



## stocksux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> I just bought GPU block for MSI gtx1070 Gaming. Question is: Does the flow direction rly matter for gpu block and if, how big differences are?


Doesn't matter


----------



## Revan654

My bracket snapped.

Other then EK's website does any stores sell these (US)? It's going to cost close to 22 dollars to ship a 9 dollar item.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> My bracket snapped.
> 
> Other then EK's website does any stores sell these (US)? It's going to cost close to 22 dollars to ship a 9 dollar item.


Performance should have some in stock.









~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Performance should have some in stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I looked earlier, I couldn't find it.


----------



## DyndaS

Thx from answer.

My loop just will be PUMP -> GPU -> CPU so if I will do this "top down" It will be not the best looking.


----------



## DyndaS

btw. Can anyone share your temps for cpu + gpu loop on single 240mm radiator with rpm ~1000 rpm or lower? I mean something like i5 + 1070/1080 with a OC but nothing big. Mostly I'm asking for gpu temp.


----------



## war4peace

Well I have some updates.


I have finished my build - at least for the next few months.
Added the GPU waterblock and backplate (1080 FTW), added an 140mm radiator with two Fractal Design 140mm fans (the ones which come with the case) in push/pull, linked the 140mm radiator between the GPU and the CPU. Also flushed my loop and replaced the EK clear with Mayhems Pastel Black.


Spoiler: Final build







Sorry about the subpar quality of the image, kids were due to pick-up from kindergarden soon and I really was in a rush.
I wanted to add a bleed faucet somewhere else but was 2 fittings short (forgot to buy them from the store, of all things!) so I still added it but it's part of the loop. It will help a bit when bleeding anyway, prevents the liquid from coming out from both holes when opening the loop.
I didn't find QDCs in stock and ordering them takes forever in my corner of the world (couple weeks if I am lucky).

Also managed to take some pictures of the bad jet plates I had received with my CPU waterblock.


Spoiler: Jet Plates Gallery












My next project will likely be a very cheap ghetto watercooling of my old components (4690K on Asus Maximus VII Hero) but I have to delid the CPU first.

So with this build, the CPU at 3.9 GHz, I ran some quick tests. All of them were done with all fans at close to minimum (vardars at 1100 RPM, 140mm fans at 500 RPM)


FurMark, after 20 minutes of GPU Stress Testing the temperature on the loop was 55 degrees Celsius.
OCCT, after 20 minutes of CPU Stress Testing the loop was at 58 degrees Celsius.
With fans at full speed the temperatures are reduced to sub-50 degrees values, but the noise is too high. I hate noise









So if you have any advice or ideas of improving my setup, feel free to chime in. Now I have loads of EKWB stuff in my PC


----------



## Asus11

Will the FE backplate on the 1080 ti fit with an EK waterblock?

the EK blackplates are on preorder & I can't be bothered to wait around


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stocksux*
> 
> I'm looking at taking my block off my Titan X and putting it on a 1080ti. My question is, can I reuse the thermal pads since things are in the same place on the two cards or do I need to buy a new set of them for the switch?


Is your Titan X a Pascal or Maxwell? It has to be Pascal or the block won't fit.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My bracket snapped.
> 
> Other then EK's website does any stores sell these (US)? It's going to cost close to 22 dollars to ship a 9 dollar item.


I was sure PPCS had those things in stock but you're right they don't have it.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Damn sexy, if they made water cooling lines like that in miniature in different colors id so be getting that.
> 
> Then again id be the guy with a brass case and copper tubing all hand soldered/welded together haha.


If one really wanted to, they could buy some of the tubing and then use it to sleeve soft tubing... But if one thought Bitspower fittings were expensive, one would not want to look up the cost of scat ducting... At Aircraft Spruce Canada, the 5/8" ID stuff is $8.50 CAD per foot while 3/4" ID is closer to reasonable at $5.40 CAD per foot. So in short, it's probably around a similar price as if one were to go with Aeroquip braided stainless steel tubing, but with a different aesthetic.

Only rated for air flowing through it though, hence why I mention using it as a sleeve for soft tubing.


----------



## stocksux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Is your Titan X a Pascal or Maxwell? It has to be Pascal or the block won't fit.


its a Pascal Titan. I need to order a second block/backplate for sli 1080ti but I need 1080ti backplate! Couldn't you just change the program to etch "GTX 1080 ti" instead of "Titan X"?? I need a couple black ones! Don't really want to pay for shipping of a block knowing I'll have to pay shipping again when/if the backplate come out


----------



## Ceadderman

Any word on whether or not there will be blocks for the Crosshair VI Formula board?









Would love to see a block for the M.2 cover to cool an M.2 mounted there.









~Ceadder


----------



## madweazl

Natural lighting was pretty neat this evening.

EK blocks, pump/res, fittings, and fans.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





__
https://flic.kr/p/RwnNRW


__
https://flic.kr/p/RESaSh


----------



## Sky-way

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> Natural lighting was pretty neat this evening.
> 
> EK blocks, pump/res, fittings, and fans.


Why 2 reservoirs?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sky-way*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> Natural lighting was pretty neat this evening.
> 
> EK blocks, pump/res, fittings, and fans.
> 
> 
> 
> Why 2 reservoirs?
Click to expand...

Why not? The cylinder can be used to fill the loop and the Bay can be used for a quick visual to tell when the loop needs to be topped off. If there were flex tubing and not hardline the Bay could be used for both purposes.









~Ceadder


----------



## madweazl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sky-way*
> 
> Why 2 reservoirs?


Capacity and aesthetics.


----------



## Sky-way

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> Capacity and aesthetics.


Cool, just curious.


----------



## madweazl

And for the record, bleeding it is a nightmare! I need to add a fill off the upper radiator and a drain of the lower. In reality, I just have to lay it down on the window side for it to purge the air but it's still a pain in the butt given the systems weight.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Is your Titan X a Pascal or Maxwell? It has to be Pascal or the block won't fit.
> I was sure PPCS had those things in stock but you're right they don't have it.


HighFlow.nl added the bracket to one of my orders, shame international shipping is so dam expensive.


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Are there substitute O-rings that can be used in side the water blocks? My supremacy mk is leaking in between the copper block and mounting plate. This was most certainly because I changed the plate to fit am4. The only ring was a little nasty but I thought I'd give it a shot.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> Are there substitute O-rings that can be used in side the water blocks? My supremacy mk is leaking in between the copper block and mounting plate. This was most certainly because I changed the plate to fit am4. The only ring was a little nasty but I thought I'd give it a shot.


ppcs has them








http://www.performance-pcs.com/oring-supremacy-evo-mx.html


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Can someone help me figure out whats the problem, so I got the asus x370 yesterday with 1700, booted up with stock cooler on cpu and gpu all worked fine even mem did 3200.
> Spent the whole day setting up my loop, when I was done there was no way I could get it to boot, when I pressed the power button nothing happened. I tried like everything reseating the cpu different mem configs with and without mem or gpu, unplugged everything nothing worked, all was with the am4 ekwb backplate thought I managed to kill the board or cpu
> ( the only thing that showed signs off life was the rgb bit on the mobo)
> So i took the whole thing apart, put on the stock backplate and cooler and bam it works...
> I read somewhere that there is an issue with the ekwb backplate ( too much pressure? ) , i tried to loosen the cpublock screws but that didnt help either, I really dont know what to do here, is there a way I could keep using the stock backplate for the mb?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> I've seen 3-4 people post similar stories using the EK WB.
> 
> When I emailed EK about this they said, it shouldn't be the case, and should work just to Ensure its being installed the correct orientation, and not flipped.
> 
> But I wanted to upgrade to same as the AMD AM4 setup (i.e the one that doesn't need a bracket, or backplate) it comes with screws that mount into the stock one.
> So I had to pay 17 Euro for screws + shipping (Screws 4.4, and shipping was like 13) Expensive but at least was peace of mind to continue using the stock backplate which seems alot higher quality.


This is all the backplates and screws I got for the supremacy used the ones up top for the ryzen 1700 + asus X370-PRO and nothing worked.
Can you link the screw set gou are talkin about that can be used with the default backplate of my mb?


----------



## rubenlol2

X4 res mounts nicely to a Open bench table, and QDC is nice to have even after expanding a predator.


----------



## nyk20z3

Current Build is EK down to the socks besides the fans, after years of water cooling i realized fans perform so close to each other to justify spending $20 a fan.

Just waiting for the Asus IX Extreme to drop so i can have native RGB support then i will make the switch, but it does come with a built in Bitspower monoblock sry EK i still love you guys









Specs -

In Win 509
Gigabyte Z170 Ultra Gaming
Intel 6700K
Gigabyte 980 Ti Extreme Gaming
G.Skill Ripjaws V 4X4GB 3200Mhz
Intel 750 NVMe 400GB
Sandisk Ultra ii 960GB
In Win C750 Watt Classic Series

Water Cooling -

EK-FB GA Z170X Ultra Monoblock Acetel+Nickel
EK-FC980 GTX Ti XG Acetal+Nickel
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM Glass Reservoir
EK-CoolStream PE 360 Radiator
EK-CoolStream CE 140 Radiator
EK-ACF Fitting 10/16 - Black ~10
EK-AF Angled 45 G1/4 Black ~7
EK-AF Angled 90 G1/4 Black ~1
EK-AF Extender 20mm M-F G1/4 - Black ~1
EK-AF Extender 8mm M-F G1/4 - Black ~1
EK-Extender G1/4 Socket - Black ~1
EK-AF Extender Rotary M-M G1/4 - Black ~1
EK-CSQ Plug G1/4 - Black ~1
EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 - Black ~1
EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm Fan) ~1
EK-Tube ZMT Black Matte Black
EK-Ekoolant EVO Clear

Fans -

XSPC 120mm 1200rpm Static Pressure Fan ~6
XSPC 140mm 1350rpm Static Pressure Fan ~2


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Current Build is EK down to the socks besides the fans, after years of water cooling i realized fans perform so close to each other to justify spending $20 a fan.
> 
> Just waiting for the Asus IX Extreme to drop so i can have native RGB support then i will make the switch, but it does come with a built in Bitspower monoblock sry EK i still love you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs -
> 
> In Win 509
> Gigabyte Z170 Ultra Gaming
> Intel 6700K
> Gigabyte 980 Ti Extreme Gaming
> G.Skill Ripjaws V 4X4GB 3200Mhz
> Intel 750 NVMe 400GB
> Sandisk Ultra ii 960GB
> In Win C750 Watt Classic Series
> 
> Water Cooling -
> 
> EK-FB GA Z170X Ultra Monoblock Acetel+Nickel
> EK-FC980 GTX Ti XG Acetal+Nickel
> EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM Glass Reservoir
> EK-CoolStream PE 360 Radiator
> EK-CoolStream CE 140 Radiator
> EK-ACF Fitting 10/16 - Black ~10
> EK-AF Angled 45 G1/4 Black ~7
> EK-AF Angled 90 G1/4 Black ~1
> EK-AF Extender 20mm M-F G1/4 - Black ~1
> EK-AF Extender 8mm M-F G1/4 - Black ~1
> EK-Extender G1/4 Socket - Black ~1
> EK-AF Extender Rotary M-M G1/4 - Black ~1
> EK-CSQ Plug G1/4 - Black ~1
> EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 - Black ~1
> EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm Fan) ~1
> EK-Tube ZMT Black Matte Black
> EK-Ekoolant EVO Clear
> 
> Fans -
> 
> XSPC 120mm 1200rpm Static Pressure Fan ~6
> XSPC 140mm 1350rpm Static Pressure Fan ~2


Extreme is a good idea. I have a Formula and I spent $40 on fittings for VRM block. I need to break the loop every tine I change the CPU.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Can someone help me figure out whats the problem, so I got the asus x370 yesterday with 1700, booted up with stock cooler on cpu and gpu all worked fine even mem did 3200.
> Spent the whole day setting up my loop, when I was done there was no way I could get it to boot, when I pressed the power button nothing happened. I tried like everything reseating the cpu different mem configs with and without mem or gpu, unplugged everything nothing worked, all was with the am4 ekwb backplate thought I managed to kill the board or cpu
> ( the only thing that showed signs off life was the rgb bit on the mobo)
> So i took the whole thing apart, put on the stock backplate and cooler and bam it works...
> I read somewhere that there is an issue with the ekwb backplate ( too much pressure? ) , i tried to loosen the cpublock screws but that didnt help either, I really dont know what to do here, is there a way I could keep using the stock backplate for the mb?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> I've seen 3-4 people post similar stories using the EK WB.
> 
> When I emailed EK about this they said, it shouldn't be the case, and should work just to Ensure its being installed the correct orientation, and not flipped.
> 
> But I wanted to upgrade to same as the AMD AM4 setup (i.e the one that doesn't need a bracket, or backplate) it comes with screws that mount into the stock one.
> So I had to pay 17 Euro for screws + shipping (Screws 4.4, and shipping was like 13) Expensive but at least was peace of mind to continue using the stock backplate which seems alot higher quality.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is all the backplates and screws I got for the supremacy used the ones up top for the ryzen 1700 + asus X370-PRO and nothing worked.
> Can you link the screw set gou are talkin about that can be used with the default backplate of my mb?
Click to expand...

3rd Plate from the left is the correct backplate for AM3/AM3+ You simply need use the black mounting bracket next to it to mount to it. afaik, all ASUS AM4 boards are the same in that there are staggered mounting holes to allow for AM3 cross support. So long as the block hasn't changed from AM3/+ to AM4, you shouldn't have a problem mounting everything together on your Ryzen platform.









~Ceadder


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 3rd Plate from the left is the correct backplate for AM3/AM3+ You simply need use the black mounting bracket next to it to mount to it. afaik, all ASUS AM4 boards are the same in that there are staggered mounting holes to allow for AM3 cross support. So long as the block hasn't changed from AM3/+ to AM4, you shouldn't have a problem mounting everything together on your Ryzen platform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ceadder and the entire top row is whats used for AM4, including the 4 m4 screws, only thing i dont see is the actual am4 bracket which fits both am3 AND am4 now, its a universal bracket.


----------



## looniam

the mounting plates for AM3+/AM4 are:


oblong mounting holes in the corners as opposed to AM3+:


if looking at the socket with I/O to left the X axis is shorter but Y axis is longer. or the screws for the brackets are closer but the brackets are farther.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Ceadder and the entire top row is whats used for AM4, including the 4 m4 screws, only thing i dont see is the actual am4 bracket which fits both am3 AND am4 now, its a universal bracket.


The am4 mounting bracket is attatched to my block and loop, did not feel like draining it couged the block and mb + gpu out from a filled loop











I just dont know what to do at this point.


----------



## arrow0309

Hi
Since I'm switching with my Supremacy Evo Nickel Plexi from 4790K to 6850K it is obvious that I'll also have to change the insert / jetplate.
But according to the guys from Thermalbench there's something I don't quite understand, the Insert 2 (I2) should be the AMD cpu's insert:

http://thermalbench.com/2015/01/07/ek-supremacy-evo-cpu-waterblock/3/

And still used for the 2011-3 cpu's:

http://thermalbench.com/2015/01/07/ek-supremacy-evo-cpu-waterblock/6/
http://thermalbench.com/2015/05/07/ek-supremacy-evo-full-nickel-cpu-waterblock/5/

One thing's for sure, the Jetplate 3 (J3) is the one to use.
As for the slight difference between the _regular_ and _goofy_ position I don't give a damn, I like it regular, in his vertical, natural position.

Any clues?


----------



## looniam

try the owner's manual:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109800119.pdf


highlighted for 2011V3 socket for you


----------



## stocksux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Extreme is a good idea. I have a Formula and I spent $40 on fittings for VRM block. I need to break the loop every tine I change the CPU.



I went with a dual loop and routed as you see. Really happy with it. I just changed my video card out for a 1080ti and it was nice to only have to drain the one loop. It also allowed me to run the gpu in its factory air configuration to make sure it wasn't DOA before I ripped the stock cooler off


----------



## Ceadderman

So, will the current RX 480 block fit XFX RX 480 8GB cards? If not, why? Could they be modded to fit? Is it he the fan power connector being in a different location? If it's the power connection then would it be possible to remove that and liquid electrical tape used to deaden the power at that spot? I will run mine with the stock cooler but I'd rather put it under water. The only other 480s that were available for the sick price I got it for were 4gb cards and they were MSi and Visiontek cards.









~Ceadder


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So, will the current RX 480 block fit XFX RX 480 8GB cards? If not, why? Could they be modded to fit? Is it he the fan power connector being in a different location? If it's the power connection then would it be possible to remove that and liquid electrical tape used to deaden the power at that spot? I will run mine with the stock cooler but I'd rather put it under water. The only other 480s that were available for the sick price I got it for were 4gb cards and they were MSi and Visiontek cards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Prdtty5sure ekwb rx 480 blocks are only for reference PCBs which is a shame. I was thinking of buying one as well but ill savd for vega


----------



## outofmyheadyo

rx 480 blocks defeat the purpose of the card


----------



## Ceadderman

1st off I was referring to a Reference 8gb card. Just forgot to post it clearly. My bad.









2ndly my card is clocked above stock as it's the OC'ed model and I don't wish to hear the hamster wheel. So I'm not quite sure how watercooling the card "defeats the purpose of the card". Please explain.









Edit: Ahhhhhhhh okay, I git it now. Sarcasm. Doesn't quite jive with your build pics in the Monsoon thread. I read that one next and saw your build. Very nice. Getting Ryzen 1800 4.0 so great job with your bad self.










~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Any word on whether or not there will be blocks for the Crosshair VI Formula board?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would love to see a block for the M.2 cover to cool an M.2 mounted there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If you're talking about the Crosshair VI Hero, then yes we're working on a monoblock. I still haven't heard anything about a Formula version of this board.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> HighFlow.nl added the bracket to one of my orders, shame international shipping is so dam expensive.


I feel your pain. Being from Canada, shipping from Europe and even from the States is quite expensive.


----------



## akira749

New release from last friday!









EK releases monoblock for MSI Z270 motherboards!


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes it was indeed, will they be coming out in Copper? Do you know? My EVO, Supreme HF, RAM block and Thermospheres are copper and my 480 block will be as well.









The only block I own that is Nickel, is my Cross hair IV MB block. Thankfully, that's acetal and it covers the cooling plates.









~Ceadder


----------



## Biggu

akira749, Is there any plans on a monoblock for the Z270i board?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes it was indeed, will they be coming out in Copper? Do you know? My EVO, Supreme HF, RAM block and Thermospheres are copper and my 480 block will be as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only block I own that is Nickel, is my Cross hair IV MB block. Thankfully, that's acetal and it covers the cooling plates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm almost 100% sure that we will only have it in Nickel version.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> akira749, Is there any plans on a monoblock for the Z270i board?


Which brand??

If it's Asus, we are still thinking if we'll do one or not.

If it's MSI, we won't have one.


----------



## Ceadderman

Drat! Don't understand why considering some can be held from plating cycle. Guess it's Acetal MB then. At least I don't run dye.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

And today's release! --> EK releases a new monoblock for ASUS Z270 motherboards!


----------



## wstanci3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> And today's release! --> EK releases a new monoblock for ASUS Z270 motherboards!


Now about those X370s...


----------



## RadActiveLobstr

So how bout some news on those new AIO options you guys are cooking up?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> And today's release! --> EK releases a new monoblock for ASUS Z270 motherboards!


Is an Acetal version coming?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RadActiveLobstr*
> 
> So how bout some news on those new AIO options you guys are cooking up?


Agreed, Predator was disco'd a while back with wording sounding like it's replacement would be on an actual "soon" timeframe, not Blizzard or Valve time. ^_^


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Is EK duraclear easier to work than EK ZMT ?
With the ZMT it`s very hard to tighten the fittings, and getting them off is almost impossible without pliers.


----------



## RadActiveLobstr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Agreed, Predator was disco'd a while back with wording sounding like it's replacement would be on an actual "soon" timeframe, not Blizzard or Valve time. ^_^


Especially since their announcement said it's a "Beginning Q2 2017" product and Q2 starts April 1st. We gotta learn something before the end of the month!
Quote:


> EK-MLC products are going to be available worldwide at the beginning of 'Q2 2017 and pricing will be revealed at the later date.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Is EK duraclear easier to work than EK ZMT ?
> With the ZMT it`s very hard to tighten the fittings, and getting them off is almost impossible without pliers.


Have you tried wrapping the collars with painters tape or using a rubberband? That's what I do with more difficult to apply/untighten fittings. It gives me more grip on the collar for either scenario.









~Ceadder


----------



## nyk20z3

Post Deleted....


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Is EK duraclear easier to work than EK ZMT ?
> With the ZMT it`s very hard to tighten the fittings, and getting them off is almost impossible without pliers.


What fittings are you using ?

Ive been using ZMT tubing in 2 different builds now and it works just fine with EK fittings, there will be some resistance when you tighten the fittings but that's natural as it grabs the tube. I have no issues removing the fittings from the tubes but ive tried Bitspower fittings with ZMT tubing and had issues tightening the collars over the tube on to the base of the fitting.

IMO ZMT tubing works best with EK fittings


----------



## Ceadderman

Borr... er um Barrows.









~Ceadder


----------



## rubenlol2

ZMT is harder to work with.


Though ZMT has good sides and bad sides, the good side is that it's rather spongy over time which along with the high fitting pressure needed makes it seal really well.
You should have heard the noise coming from my loop after I expanded my predator 360 with a extra pump and the large res from EK, after the loop heated up (and probably some weather pressure changes as well) I opened one of the ports on my res to let it air and the rush of air exiting sounded like someone opening a bottle of soda.
At least I know the loop is leak proof if it can sustain that amount of internal pressure.


----------



## DarthBaggins

ZMT is still hands down some of the best tubing I've used so far. Extremely durable and flexible without kinking are a big deal for me. Want to try out the duraclear next


----------



## bluej511

I personally LOVE that zmt is hard to tighten down even with ek fittings, (it does just slightly cut into the outer layer of the tubing with ek fittings depending on tubing angle) but its a nice tight fit how it would be.

Id rather have the tubing be hard to pull off after its been installed a while then just pop right off haha.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Any thoughts on making a chipset block for the Formula IX that extends over the M.2 slot under the armor to cool it?


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

I have EK fittings and already have difficulty tightening the fittings with Primochill advanced lrt tubing.

I just bought some ZMT (matte black mmm nice), let's hope I still have fingers.

I use a hairdryer to heat up the tubing, it goes on way easier and if you hurry to tighten it it still works decent.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> I have EK fittings and already have difficulty tightening the fittings with Primochill advanced lrt tubing.
> 
> I just bought some ZMT (matte black mmm nice), let's hope I still have fingers.
> 
> I use a hairdryer to heat up the tubing, it goes on way easier and if you hurry to tighten it it still works decent.


Clever, it can be tough for sure. My fingers always look like I have been on a crack binge after a build


----------



## Sazexa

I didn't read all of it, but, as someone whose done many water-cooling loops over the passed couple of years, ZMT is my favorite soft tubing by far. It holds it shape well for bends and curves, it seems nicely, doesn't look dirty, and it's not really hard to work with at all. Maybe I feel this way because as an electrician, my hands get beat up/work hard all the time. But I'd recommend ZMT for any build really. I stuffed 16mm/10mm ZMT into an NCase M1 build with relative ease. It's not that hard to work with.


----------



## akira749

I know some people asked this question over the past weeks.

I was able to get an update about it today.

Question asked : "Will there be a specific reference 1080Ti block and backplate with the '1080Ti' engraving instead of 'Titan X'??"

The Answer : "Yes!"

It should become available in the first week of April.


----------



## Sazexa

What size hole saw should I use in a case for the EK-passthroughs? I was thinking 3/4. Will that be too tight/large? A small amount of wiggle-room would be nice, since I'll have four in a vertical row, and I'd like to make sure they're as in line as possible.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> What size hole saw should I use in a case for the EK-passthroughs? I was thinking 3/4. Will that be too tight/large? A small amount of wiggle-room would be nice, since I'll have four in a vertical row, and I'd like to make sure they're as in line as possible.


I use one of these style bits Get one of the 7/8" drill until it fits.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> I use one of these style bits Get one of the 7/8" drill until it fits.


7/8ths isn't too big?

Also, I'll likely get something small as a pilot hole, so the step-bit doesn't walk on me.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> What size hole saw should I use in a case for the EK-passthroughs? I was thinking 3/4. Will that be too tight/large? A small amount of wiggle-room would be nice, since I'll have four in a vertical row, and I'd like to make sure they're as in line as possible.


The EK pass-thru is the same size hole as for the Bitspower pass thrus,

That would be 20mm, which for imperial folks is a fraction over 3/4". (actually about 25/32")

You can use a 3/4" holesaw and clean it up with a dremel with a sanding drum, or get a metric step bit or a 20mm holesaw.

I use a 20mm holesaw, as I often drill thru material, (like acrylic) thicker than a step bit section is wide.

If you don't plan to use it much, a cheap step bit from Amazon is probably the cheapest solution, as a 20mm holesaw is twenty some dollars and almost that much again if you don't already have a mandrel.

Found it . .

I use this one, probably a lot less than the $11 shipping it cost me to get here to the Caribbean if you're in the states. (so less than the ~$20 it was for me)

It also fits standard mandrels that you'd get at HD or Lowes etc, or maybe already have.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ESWH7QQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's definitely not a bad price for a hole saw bit, lol. Well compared to automotive/hardened bits, but step bits are great as well to get the fit you want.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> 7/8ths isn't too big?
> 
> Also, I'll likely get something small as a pilot hole, so the step-bit doesn't walk on me.


I put down blue painters tape and mark it all out. I do use a small pilot bit to start.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Is EK duraclear easier to work than EK ZMT ?
> With the ZMT it`s very hard to tighten the fittings, and getting them off is almost impossible without pliers.


I'm using zmt with the EK acf fittings. Yeah it can be a little rough to get em tightened down. Keep in mind with compression fittings the collar doesn't need to tighten all the way down to the fitting itself.

Also no real issue getting them undone either. Don't know about their duraclear though. Something I'd like to know about as well. As much as I love the zmt I've been tempted to go clear so I can have colored coolant. I really don't want to deal with plasticizer at all though.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> 7/8ths isn't too big?
> 
> Also, I'll likely get something small as a pilot hole, so the step-bit doesn't walk on me.


As mentioned above, it's just about 3/4". I used a step bit for my build (thin aluminum) and it was extremely quick and easy. The holes can afford to be a little larger than required without making it ugly, as the collar that screws on the back/underside of the pass through will cover up some excess space.


----------



## muffins

supremacy evo copper plexi - amd
coolstream se 240 + ek fittings
ek dura clear + ekoolant evo uv blue
ek-xres 100 spc-60 mx pwm
corsair ml120 pro red
completed my ryzen 1800x loop recently. its just a small loop. nothing overly fancy. i setup it up in a similar way to an AIO with the pump + reservoir attached directly to the radiator to make "disassembly" simple. all i have to do is unbolt the radiator from the case and block. blows my previous corsair h110i out of the water









edit:
i do have a question regarding the pwm pump. do you have to run it under a pwm curve or can you simply run it 24/7 at full 12v's? reason i ask is because the pump is really quiet at full 12v's. i really can't hear it over my fans which are pretty quiet as is. so i've been running it at full 12v's.


----------



## KickAssCop

Is there any way to fit an EK 780/980 Ti Classified block on a 1080 Ti FE?


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> Is there any way to fit an EK 780/980 Ti Classified block on a 1080 Ti FE?


not even close


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> not even close


seriously and why would one even try, if you can afford a 1080Ti, you can buy another waterblock.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muffins*
> 
> edit:
> i do have a question regarding the pwm pump. do you have to run it under a pwm curve or can you simply run it 24/7 at full 12v's? reason i ask is because the pump is really quiet at full 12v's. i really can't hear it over my fans which are pretty quiet as is. so i've been running it at full 12v's.


It can be run at 100% all the time if you want.


----------



## nyk20z3

My EK D5 is def audible at full throttle, I would love to run it at max 24/7 but after testing pump speeds don't affect temps.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> My EK D5 is def audible at full throttle, I would love to run it at max 24/7 but after testing pump speeds don't affect temps.


Mine is at 75% and dead silent. And pump speed absolutely matters for temps, i can tell you that from my testing. Depends on the restriction in the loop. At 30% my cpu is at 55°C at 75% its at 43°C, oh yea that big a drop.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Mine is at 75% and dead silent. And pump speed absolutely matters for temps, i can tell you that from my testing. Depends on the restriction in the loop. At 30% my cpu is at 55°C at 75% its at 43°C, oh yea that big a drop.


I just finished the loop about a week ago. I have an EK CE 140 and EK PE 360 in the build which from my knowledge aren't too restrictive. I play at 3440X1440 on an Acer X34 max settings using a 980 Ti Extreme Gaming. Ive hit 51C max over the past couple of days during testing on the gpu. With the pump on max or low ive noticed almost no differences in temps so i guess it just depends on so many different factors.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> I just finished the loop about a week ago. I have an EK CE 140 and EK PE 360 in the build which from my knowledge aren't too restrictive. I play at 3440X1440 on an Acer X34 max settings using a 980 Ti Extreme Gaming. Ive hit 51C max over the past couple of days during testing on the gpu. With the pump on max or low ive noticed almost no differences in temps so i guess it just depends on so many different factors.


Your cpu block and gpu block are the restrictive parts, the rads have almost no restriction.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Mine is at 75% and dead silent. And pump speed absolutely matters for temps, i can tell you that from my testing. Depends on the restriction in the loop. At 30% my cpu is at 55°C at 75% its at 43°C, oh yea that big a drop.


I also did a couple tests on pump speed, i've gamed at 3000RPM pump speed, and did the same at 1500RPM, no temperature difference, 1-2C at most. Did you accidentally bump up the fan speed when you bumped up the pump speed?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I also did a couple tests on pump speed, i've gamed at 3000RPM pump speed, and did the same at 1500RPM, no temperature difference, 1-2C at most. Did you accidentally bump up the fan speed when you bumped up the pump speed?


Nope just have a restrictive gpu block lol.


----------



## spyui

Hello !! Can anyone tell me does this Ek-FC Terminal Tripple Parallel dual bridge come with EK-FC Terminal BLANK Parallel in the box ? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyui*
> 
> Hello !! Can anyone tell me does this Ek-FC Terminal Tripple Parallel dual bridge come with EK-FC Terminal BLANK Parallel in the box ? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi


No, you must buy them separately.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay, asked this a little bit back but here goes again...

Picked up an 8gb XFX RX480 Radeon RS. It's a Reference PCB sfaik. Will the 480 block fit it or not? If not what keeps the block from mating to the card and could the block be nodded to fit or could the card likewise be modded?









Any help would be sincerely appreciated. I would like to get it under water and I would like to do it with an EK block above all others.









~Ceadder


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay, asked this a little bit back but here goes again...
> 
> Picked up an 8gb XFX RX480 Radeon RS. It's a Reference PCB sfaik. Will the 480 block fit it or not? If not what keeps the block from mating to the card and could the block be nodded to fit or could the card likewise be modded?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any help would be sincerely appreciated. I would like to get it under water and I would like to do it with an EK block above all others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The ekwb is made to fit ONLY the reference pcb, thats if youre 100% its a reference. You can always check the ek compatibility site and it should show you. Otherwise if its not the only other alternative is the alphacool blocks (ridiculously low core temps, pretty restrictive, and passively cooled VRMs (that on my rig dont go past 60°C anyways))


----------



## Ceadderman

It's Radeon. Should be Reference. Difficult to tell atm since it comes with a backplate on the card and I've yet to pull the protective covers off it. But I am almost certain that it I were to light up the backplate I would see the Reference green pcb of all the other Reference cards that the 480 block is known to fit. My 6870s are the same color. I haven't checked for the other indicators yet but I can do that fairly soon. Just kinda iffy on pulling the cooler to get a better peek under the hood without having a replacement TIM on hand in case I cannot run the 480 block. Really am not interested in the alphacool GPU cover. An 8gb card deserves to be flogged under water imho. When I was looking at the Sapphire card I looked up 480s in configurator and the XFX didn't show up in the library. Now Configurator has undergone a facelift and that information is harder to find. Thanks for the reply.









~Ceadder


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's Radeon. Should be Reference. Difficult to tell atm since it comes with a backplate on the card and I've yet to pull the protective covers off it. But I am almost certain that it I were to light up the backplate I would see the Reference green pcb of all the other Reference cards that the 480 block is known to fit. My 6870s are the same color. I haven't checked for the other indicators yet but I can do that fairly soon. Just kinda iffy on pulling the cooler to get a better peek under the hood without having a replacement TIM on hand in case I cannot run the 480 block. Really am not interested in the alphacool GPU cover. An 8gb card deserves to be flogged under water imho. When I was looking at the Sapphire card I looked up 480s in configurator and the XFX didn't show up in the library. Now Configurator has undergone a facelift and that information is harder to find. Thanks for the reply.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


This should help, i see 3 dif xfx model numbers.

https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/waterblock/3831109831519


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I know some people asked this question over the past weeks.
> 
> I was able to get an update about it today.
> 
> Question asked : "Will there be a specific reference 1080Ti block and backplate with the '1080Ti' engraving instead of 'Titan X'??"
> 
> The Answer : "Yes!"
> 
> It should become available in the first week of April.


Thank you for the good news.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay, asked this a little bit back but here goes again...
> 
> Picked up an 8gb XFX RX480 Radeon RS. It's a Reference PCB sfaik. Will the 480 block fit it or not? If not what keeps the block from mating to the card and could the block be nodded to fit or could the card likewise be modded?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any help would be sincerely appreciated. I would like to get it under water and I would like to do it with an EK block above all others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Do you have the exact model number of your card?


----------



## Jsunn

Can anyone give me a measurement of the end tanks on the EK-CoolStream PE 240?

I needed to know how far the end of the radiator extends beyond the 120mm fan, the part with the fittings on it. I am trying to determine the spacing in my case and if I need to change anything.

Thank you!
-Jason


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay, asked this a little bit back but here goes again...
> 
> Picked up an 8gb XFX RX480 Radeon RS. It's a Reference PCB sfaik. Will the 480 block fit it or not? If not what keeps the block from mating to the card and could the block be nodded to fit or could the card likewise be modded?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any help would be sincerely appreciated. I would like to get it under water and I would like to do it with an EK block above all others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have the exact model number of your card?
Click to expand...



This should clear things up.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sazexa

Some more goodies of the RVE10 RGB Monoblock. Okay, done spamming it until the build is finished.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> This should clear things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well with the OEM PCB any of the blocks compatible with the ref will work


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> This should clear things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was more referring to something like : RX-480M8BBA6

But your picture clearly shows us that it's an AMD reference board. So our EK-FC RX-480 block should fit.









This is the PCB we support with the reference block :


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> This should clear things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well with the OEM PCB any of the blocks compatible with the ref will work
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking as well.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> This should clear things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was more referring to something like : RX-480M8BBA6
> 
> But your picture clearly shows us that it's an AMD reference board. So our EK-FC RX-480 block should fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the PCB we support with the reference block :
Click to expand...

Awesome, I now know what to get soon.









Thanks to you both.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kronos8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsunn*
> 
> Can anyone give me a measurement of the end tanks on the EK-CoolStream PE 240?
> 
> I needed to know how far the end of the radiator extends beyond the 120mm fan, the part with the fittings on it. I am trying to determine the spacing in my case and if I need to change anything.
> 
> Thank you!
> -Jason


this may help you

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-pe-240-dual

look at the schematics on the picture on the right

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1600x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/e/k/ek240.jpg


----------



## bfedorov11

Anyone know if the screw holes in the monarch modules are supposed to be super tight? I have a set of the the nickel plated ones and the screws get tight when they are about 1/4 of the way in.. tight as in, if I go anymore, I will probably strip the head or break the screw. I have an older pair of the black ones and I don't recall them being this tight. Screws from both sets work fine in the older black sets.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ram-monarch-module-nickel-2pcs


----------



## Ceadderman

Pretty sure I know the answer to this, but here goes...

Backplate are available for the 480 correct?









~Ceadder


----------



## rubenlol2

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-rx-480-backplate-black

This is what you're talking about right?


----------



## velocityx

guys, do you know where to get a discount code at ekwb shop? I just summed up my first custom loop and its a whooping 800 euros before shipping. It's kinda steep....


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> guys, do you know where to get a discount code at ekwb shop? I just summed up my first custom loop and its a whooping 800 euros before shipping. It's kinda steep....


I don't think they have a discount code.

I just ordered a block and backplate from EK, no discount code that I know of.

800 euros?
For that, you should get a free personal tour of EK in Slovenia, a fancy meal, and a night in a hotel there!








Edit:
All joking aside, EK does offer good prices, and the shipping cost for my order was less from Slovenia, than if I bought it stateside.
Good delivery times as well.


----------



## emsj86

PPCs has free shipping over 99 dollar ekwb orders. Add the OCN55 code for 5 percent and that's a decent discount


----------



## velocityx

Yea but performance pcs is in the usa? that would make no sense I would have to pay import fees on something that was initially imported from europe to usa and back again ;p


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsunn*
> 
> Can anyone give me a measurement of the end tanks on the EK-CoolStream PE 240?
> 
> I needed to know how far the end of the radiator extends beyond the 120mm fan, the part with the fittings on it. I am trying to determine the spacing in my case and if I need to change anything.
> 
> Thank you!
> -Jason


30mm at the ports side and around 17mm at the upper side.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty sure I know the answer to this, but here goes...
> 
> Backplate are available for the 480 correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yep









https://www.ekwb.com/shop/water-blocks/vga-blocks/fc-backplates-for-amd-radeon/radeon-rx-400-series-backplates


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubenlol2*
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-rx-480-backplate-black
> 
> This is what you're talking about right?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jsunn*
> 
> Can anyone give me a measurement of the end tanks on the EK-CoolStream PE 240?
> 
> I needed to know how far the end of the radiator extends beyond the 120mm fan, the part with the fittings on it. I am trying to determine the spacing in my case and if I need to change anything.
> 
> Thank you!
> -Jason
> 
> 
> 
> 30mm at the ports side and around 17mm at the upper side.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty sure I know the answer to this, but here goes...
> 
> Backplate are available for the 480 correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/water-blocks/vga-blocks/fc-backplates-for-amd-radeon/radeon-rx-400-series-backplates
Click to expand...

Yuppers, that's what I am looking for. PPCS is out of stock at the moment and EK's site doesn't like my mobile or vice versa. I will contact Duke and see what he can do for me though. Thanks to you both.









~Ceadder


----------



## ryanallan

Recently pieced together a drain assembly for my loop.

I've traditionally been a bitspower guy for fittings, however, might have to start the conversion over to EK. I'm impressed with the quality / price ratio. And the lack of branding is nice. I was going for an all black, stealth, look, but was having trouble finding fittings in mat black without an ugly logo. EK fit the bill perfectly!


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryanallan*
> 
> Recently pieced together a drain assembly for my loop.
> 
> I've traditionally been a bitspower guy for fittings, however, might have to start the conversion over to EK. I'm impressed with the quality / price ratio. And the lack of branding is nice. I was going for an all black, stealth, look, but was having trouble finding fittings in mat black without an ugly logo. EK fit the bill perfectly!


Sweet bro my drain plug set up is similar to that.


----------



## Ceadderman

Good setup there. No woories about back flow interfering withe the flowrate of the loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wally West

I heard that the Supremacy Evo with the back plate and mounting plate is not compatible with AM4 motherboards, what do I need to do to make it compatible?

(Asus Crosshair VI Hero)


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> I heard that the Supremacy Evo with the back plate and mounting plate is not compatible with AM4 motherboards, what do I need to do to make it compatible?
> 
> (Asus Crosshair VI Hero)


You can use am3 mounting hardware on the Asus, i just got mine today and it has both mounting holes for am3 and am4, if you already have am3 hardware then just use that.


----------



## damstr

In the middle of assembling my custom EK loop. Only non EK part I used was the top rad since space is limited in the In Win 303.

Anyway my 1080 Ti should be here by end of the week. Crossed between ordering a Titan XP EK block or waiting for the official EK 1080 Ti block. If I wait means I'll be out of a PC till the block comes out since I don't want to run the system with CPU only then drain it install the GPU block then redo some runs.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> I heard that the Supremacy Evo with the back plate and mounting plate is not compatible with AM4 motherboards, what do I need to do to make it compatible?
> 
> (Asus Crosshair VI Hero)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> I heard that the Supremacy Evo with the back plate and mounting plate is not compatible with AM4 motherboards, what do I need to do to make it compatible?
> 
> (Asus Crosshair VI Hero)
> 
> 
> 
> You can use am3 mounting hardware on the Asus, I just got mine today and it has both mounting holes for am3 and am4, if you already have am3 hardware then just use that.
Click to expand...

Only Hero is AM3 compatible. I confirmed this last week checking my brother's Prime board which is only AM4. He doesn't water cool so no worries for him.









Picking up the Acetal/Copper Rx480 block today will have it by next week sometime depending on shipping. Won't put it under water yet due to lack of backplate at PPCs, but once I get it and Hero platform sorted out, I'm all over it.









~Ceadder


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damstr*
> 
> In the middle of assembling my custom EK loop. Only non EK part I used was the top rad since space is limited in the In Win 303.
> 
> Anyway my 1080 Ti should be here by end of the week. Crossed between ordering a Titan XP EK block or waiting for the official EK 1080 Ti block. If I wait means I'll be out of a PC till the block comes out since I don't want to run the system with CPU only then drain it install the GPU block then redo some runs.


Congrats on the incoming 1080Ti!









I just ordered the EK TitanX Pascal block and backplate for mine, having TitanX on it doesn't bother me in the least.
Idk what else EK will change for the official 1080Ti block, other than the inscription.
Perhaps they will "fill in" the empty DVI port area, that's the only other thing I can think of that may be different.
That has nothing to do with cooling anyhow, just aesthetics.


----------



## damstr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Congrats on the incoming 1080Ti!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just ordered the EK TitanX Pascal block and backplate for mine, having TitanX on it doesn't bother me in the least.
> Idk what else EK will change for the official 1080Ti block, other than the inscription.
> Perhaps they will "fill in" the empty DVI port area, that's the only other thing I can think of that may be different.
> That has nothing to do with cooling anyhow, just aesthetics.


Thanks! I'm super hyped. My 1080 Hybrid is arrived to EVGA last Friday and I just got a shipping notification for the 1080 Ti. Friday delivery!

I know for a fact that EK will be bundling a single slot bracket with the 1080 Ti block. Been a long time since I've seen a single slot high end card. I do imagine they will fill in the DVI space.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

made a thread of this then i remmberd the ek club so gonna ask here also. I was looking into the EK-SBAY Dual DDC my single mcp655-b is either going bad or having trouble with my loop with a 420 360 and a 240 in a large case so was looking for a dual pump setup that would fit in the bay res. What i do wonder is do you need the heatsinks and can you use them in the bay res model ? And how well do these perform compared to a single mcp655-b its a speed 4 d5 pump ? Anyone have one of these setup that can show some pics of it with heatsinks if possable wondering how tall it makes it if it supports them.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-sbay-dual-ddc-3-2-pwm-serial-incl-2x-pumps.html#Additional-Information
http://www.performance-pcs.com/pump-accessories/ek-ddc-heatsink-housing-black.html


----------



## Ceadderman

I believe heats inks are okay with some airflow provided but they're negligably better than the stock housing without.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bal3Wolf

will it be fine without them only air it might get is air leaking into the system thru the front vents and air coming off the top rads fans very little as they are set as exhaust.


----------



## lever2stacks

I have a question I have a EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM. I just seen that you guys have a new version with borosilicate glass. Is there anyway I can get the new pump/res top and glass without buying the whole combo again? Kinda wishing I would have waited to buy my res/pump combo now.


----------



## skingun

The glass res is standalone and can't be directly mounted to the pump as it has an increased diameter of 80mm. You would need to run a soft/hard line between the two.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> I have a question I have a EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM. I just seen that you guys have a new version with borosilicate glass. Is there anyway I can get the new pump/res top and glass without buying the whole combo again? Kinda wishing I would have waited to buy my res/pump combo now.


Sadly we dont sell the EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl.pump) - Glass without the pump.

One thing you could do, is to open a ticket on our website and ask about it. Maybe they'll be able to sell it as a "replacement part" thing.

https://www.ekwb.com/customer-care/


----------



## lever2stacks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Sadly we dont sell the EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl.pump) - Glass without the pump.
> 
> One thing you could do, is to open a ticket on our website and ask about it. Maybe they'll be able to sell it as a "replacement part" thing.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/customer-care/


Thanks I'll give it a go and see what happen's. If nothing else I'll get a new one and have a extra pump/res for my ryzen build I'm about to start.


----------



## dboythagr8

Hello,

I am seriously considering jumping into my first custom WC loop. I've had plenty of AIO units for my CPU, but I'm wanting to do a custom loop to include my CPU and GPUs. I'm using a Corsair Air 540 and want to put a 240 up top and a 320 in the front. I already know that the Titan XP back plate can be used on the 1080Ti. I used the EK Cooling Configurator and it gave me back parts that totaled around $940.

Now I don't mind spending the money as I surely do not want to skimp out on water cooling components, but I don't want to spend money just because either. Does that system configuration look correct to you guys? The one concern I had was wanting a 5.25'' pump/res combo that I can put in place of my fan controller, but it doesn't look like EK makes those (Edit: I was wrong, 5.25'' combos are available).

Also I've read about quick disconnects and drainage lines? I'm sure I'm getting the terminology wrong as this is my first time getting into this, but I do change GPU's quite often in my system. Being able to quickly disconnect the GPUs would be great.

Just looking for any advice for a first timer WC user. Tips. Tricks. Do this. Don't do that. Anything will help


----------



## skingun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Sadly we dont sell the EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl.pump) - Glass without the pump.
> 
> One thing you could do, is to open a ticket on our website and ask about it. Maybe they'll be able to sell it as a "replacement part" thing.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/customer-care/


You should definitely sell the glass tube separately. I would buy one.

Edit - no thread and needs a specific bottom and top.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Glass res's are where it's at.


----------



## damstr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> You should definitely sell the glass tube separately. I would buy one.
> 
> Edit - no thread and needs a specific bottom and top.


Same. I was disappointed when I couldn't buy the glass tube separately.


----------



## lever2stacks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Glass res's are where it's at.


Yeah boi!!!! my whole loop will be glass now that I found a res that is glass that will fit my case.


----------



## nyk20z3

I was looking for some native RGB support so i picked up a Gigabyte Z270X Gaming 7 and a EK-FB GA Z270X RGB Monoblock


----------



## lever2stacks

On another note the tooling marks on the ek-fc 1080gtx block I just got is horrendous. It's going to take a lot of sanding and polishing for it to look good, I wan't the happiest when I opened the box.
I've owned quite a few EK blocks and this is by far the worst that I have received. I know it can be better my mono block for my Gene VIII Is super smooth you can barely see the tooling marks. I love EK products I use your blocks and pumps almost religiously so it saddened me that I even had to post this

Sorry for the crappy phone pics.
Not very pleasing on the eyes


See how nice the mono block is


----------



## Ashcroft

It's really just an optical effect rather than roughness. It is caused by the special tool they use that gives a very, very smooth surface. You can run a razor blade over it and not feel anything.


----------



## lever2stacks

The optical effect is what I'm referring to it does not look good, It's ok I planned on sanding and polishing it down anyways. It's not that big of a deal just wanted to point out this block has the worst tooling marks of any ek block I've got to date.


----------



## Silent Scone

Hi @akira749,

Any ideas on a rough ETA for the Strix OC Ti block?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> Hi @akira749,
> 
> Any ideas on a rough ETA for the Strix OC Ti block?


Are you talking about a GPU?


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Are you talking about a GPU?


Sorry, yes. The ASUS 1080Ti Strix OC.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> Sorry, yes. The ASUS 1080Ti Strix OC.


It's still too early for non-reference 1080Ti's blocks.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks like I'll be ordering the new dual rotary terminal from EK for the 1080 block


----------



## looniam

^ i *just* saw that on TPU
https://www.techpowerup.com/231745/ek-announces-a-revolutionary-new-rotary-terminal


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> ^ i *just* saw that on TPU
> https://www.techpowerup.com/231745/ek-announces-a-revolutionary-new-rotary-terminal


Yeah I got an email about it, that would make runs so much easier from the pump to the GPU, and I'm sure to the CPU I can make it work. But if I order a BH4 then that would be even better


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It's still too early for non-reference 1080Ti's blocks.


Thanks, yes I know - which is why I asked for a rough ETA


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> ^ i *just* saw that on TPU
> https://www.techpowerup.com/231745/ek-announces-a-revolutionary-new-rotary-terminal


That will be very handy for people using soft tubing.


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing a new revolutionary Rotary Terminal


----------



## DarthBaggins

I think we beat you to it lol


----------



## damstr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing a new revolutionary Rotary Terminal


Damn I just bought the Titan XP block and backplate yesterday with the fittings for my 1080 Ti!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing a new revolutionary Rotary Terminal


Any word on if such will also be available as an SLI top? Figured I might as well ask ^_^;;


----------



## Barefooter

That rotary thermal is awesome! Especially if you are already using black fittings.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> ^ i *just* saw that on TPU
> https://www.techpowerup.com/231745/ek-announces-a-revolutionary-new-rotary-terminal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I got an email about it, that would make runs so much easier from the pump to the GPU, and I'm sure to the CPU I can make it work. But if I order a BH4 then that would be even better
Click to expand...

Oooooohhh



It'd be snazzy as hades with hardline Parralel.









Gonna snag it for my 480 block.









~Ceadder


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oooooohhh
> 
> 
> 
> It'd be snazzy as hades with hardline Parralel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna snag it for my 480 block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


without adding splitters how would you run 2x GPU in parallel? Do you mean series?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oooooohhh
> 
> 
> 
> It'd be snazzy as hades with hardline Parralel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna snag it for my 480 block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> without adding splitters how would you run 2x GPU in parallel? Do you mean series?
Click to expand...

Yeah I thought about that. Just too tired(been up since 0300am PST) to edit that. Or think straight.























Good catch though.









~Ceadder


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I thought about that. Just too tired(been up since 0300am PST) to edit that. Or think straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good catch though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No worries... you just gave EK an idea for their next release where 1 side has a swivel 90deg elbow on it (or three way if you prefer it said... left, up and back to block)


----------



## Alan1187

Does anyone have this configuration and is able to get a quick measurement of how tall it is from bottom of the bracket to the top of the pump res? I can do the math if someone has the taller res and can just provide the height from the bottom of the bracket to the top of the pump topper. Appreciate it.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Looks like I'll be ordering the new dual rotary terminal from EK for the 1080 block


How is this any different then just running 2 rotary 90 fittings ?


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Looks like I'll be ordering the new dual rotary terminal from EK for the 1080 block
> 
> 
> 
> How is this any different then just running 2 rotary 90 fittings ?
Click to expand...

putting 90s on the terminal runs the lines parallel to the card.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







the 90s being the terminal you can run the lines perpendicular, such as a terminal w/o them.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







imo it looks cleaner (as in not as bulky) than using the block and any fittings. i'm really thinking of getting one; i just picked up a acetel block/backplate for my 980ti off of ebay for $62 inc. shipping and think it would look pretty sweet being black.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Looks like I'll be ordering the new dual rotary terminal from EK for the 1080 block
> 
> 
> 
> How is this any different then just running 2 rotary 90 fittings ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> putting 90s on the terminal runs the lines parallel to the card.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the 90s being the terminal you can run the lines perpendicular, such as a terminal w/o them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> imo it looks cleaner (as in not as bulky) than using the block and any fittings. i'm really thinking of getting one; i just picked up a acetel block/backplate for my 980ti off of ebay for $62 inc. shipping and think it would look pretty sweet being black.
Click to expand...

Aaaaand, a Rep+ for the superb explanation, and accompanying photos, to you, looniam!









Very good deal on that 980Ti block.









Might get one myself for my incoming 1080Ti EK block, if EK has a nickel version in the works.
Always something new to buy.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Looks like I'll be ordering the new dual rotary terminal from EK for the 1080 block
> 
> 
> 
> How is this any different then just running 2 rotary 90 fittings ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> putting 90s on the terminal runs the lines parallel to the card.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the 90s being the terminal you can run the lines perpendicular, such as a terminal w/o them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> imo it looks cleaner (as in not as bulky) than using the block and any fittings. i'm really thinking of getting one; i just picked up a acetel block/backplate for my 980ti off of ebay for $62 inc. shipping and think it would look pretty sweet being black.
Click to expand...

Nice explanation. Although I admit that I hadn't thought of that setup.









~Ceadder


----------



## looniam

i sometimes get lucky.


----------



## HugoStiglitz

Anyone have an EK D5 Vario ? (Non PWM with dial on bottom and 3 pin fan connector to monitor RPM)

I bought a brand new EK D5 Vario in October but only got around to using it today. I tried adjusting the red screw and seems to do nothing at all, I have the signal wire attached to my motherboard and it reports 2600rpm - 2650rpm only. Adjusting the red dial doesn't decrease/increase it.

Could this be a dodgy wire or would it be more than likely faulty pump? Ill have to drain whole loop to check pump which I want to avoid unless I have to RMA it.

Anyone with same pump check that their pump speed adjusts please.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HugoStiglitz*
> 
> Anyone have an EK D5 Vario ? (Non PWM with dial on bottom and 3 pin fan connector to monitor RPM)
> 
> I bought a brand new EK D5 Vario in October but only got around to using it today. I tried adjusting the red screw and seems to do nothing at all, I have the signal wire attached to my motherboard and it reports 2600rpm - 2650rpm only. Adjusting the red dial doesn't decrease/increase it.
> 
> Could this be a dodgy wire or would it be more than likely faulty pump? Ill have to drain whole loop to check pump which I want to avoid unless I have to RMA it.
> 
> Anyone with same pump check that their pump speed adjusts please.


I know my Vario was already set to max and reads 3500-4000rpms so I'd say something is off if your max is that low. I have mine set at 2 along with another D5 (vpp655) set at 2 for my loop (running duals for redundancy)


----------



## ChiTownButcher

So I have been trying to find this answer for a while and no one ever seems to have it. With the EX-XTop Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial setup what is the overall length of them. I am talking about from white sticker on bottom of D5 to the other white sticker on the other D5. See picture below.



Or in other words from Left to Right on this picture.



I assume based on the mounting plates that its about 140mm but I dont want to buy it, be wrong and it not fit.


----------



## looniam

i have no idea if it helps but, measuring my pump end (assuming the same) to the collar (red box) i get 43mm:



to guesstimate 43mm*3.25 (screwing around with the box size) ~140mm.

aw ha!

E:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109843192.pdf


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i have no idea if it helps but, measuring my pump end (assuming the same) to the collar (red box) i get 43mm:
> 
> 
> 
> to guesstimate 43mm*3.25 (screwing around with the box size) ~140mm.
> 
> aw ha!
> 
> E:
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109843192.pdf


That makes sense. So it has to be about 140mm and from end to end of the feet about 145-148mm.. Thank you very much


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> That makes sense. So it has to be about 140mm and from end to end of the feet about 145-148mm.. Thank you very much


To be safe call it 150mm, that way you wont need to bend the cables if youre wedging the pump in between something.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Trying to figure out if I will have enough room in a Caselabs S8 Basement PSU Side for a EVGA 1200 P2, the dual pump running front to back and a Aquaero in the bottom slot and still enough room to route all PSU Cables. Its going to be close but it might fit. I can always move the PSU back with either the Lian-Li PSU extension or steal the PSU Mounting Bracket from a Coolermaster Cosmos II that will move the PSU an inch back.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Trying to figure out if I will have enough room in a Caselabs S8 Basement PSU Side for a EVGA 1200 P2, the dual pump running front to back and a Aquaero in the bottom slot and still enough room to route all PSU Cables. Its going to be close but it might fit. I can always move the PSU back with either the Lian-Li PSU extension or steal the PSU Mounting Bracket from a Coolermaster Cosmos II that will move the PSU an inch back.


I have a 1200P2 in an Evolv ATX with a pump in the basement. It is way too tight. I should have gotten a 1000G3 since its only 160mm.

I believe there are some 1200w 180mm PSUs as well.


----------



## meson1

If only EK (or someone) did black plastic covers to fit over the ends of the _EX-XTop Revo Dual D5_ to hide the white labels and wires for a cleaner look.

I imagine something like a shallow lid with a notch cut in the rim to accommodate the wires. And some means of attaching it like little tabs that could fit in the gaps in the anti-vibration mount or alternatively a velco pad.


----------



## HugoStiglitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know my Vario was already set to max and reads 3500-4000rpms so I'd say something is off if your max is that low. I have mine set at 2 along with another D5 (vpp655) set at 2 for my loop (running duals for redundancy)


I drained the loop, took the plastic cover off the D5 pump, remove the red dial, made a makeshift loop to test pump. Connected signal wire to different PC, turned it on and it was reading 2650 rpm, turn the white dial on PCB with phillips screwdriver and boom, 4800rpm.

Pity I had to drain a whole new loop to figure that the red dial was worn where it meets PCB


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HugoStiglitz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know my Vario was already set to max and reads 3500-4000rpms so I'd say something is off if your max is that low. I have mine set at 2 along with another D5 (vpp655) set at 2 for my loop (running duals for redundancy)
> 
> 
> 
> I drained the loop, took the plastic cover off the D5 pump, remove the red dial, made a makeshift loop to test pump. Connected signal wire to different PC, turned it on and it was reading 2650 rpm, turn the white dial on PCB with phillips screwdriver and boom, 4800rpm.
> 
> Pity I had to drain a whole new loop to figure that the red dial was worn where it meets PCB
Click to expand...

You can get a replacement red adjuster:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/pump-accessories/d5-vario-pump-replacement-speed-control-knob.html

They usually get broken because they look like they are set to "2", when in fact they are set to 5, and if you don't look closely enough to realize it, you'll try to turn it up to 5, which then breaks it.


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> On another note the tooling marks on the ek-fc 1080gtx block I just got is horrendous. It's going to take a lot of sanding and polishing for it to look good


Probably not a good idea to sand down a nickel plated block. Let us know how it worked out


----------



## lever2stacks

L
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> Probably not a good idea to sand down a nickel plated block. Let us know how it worked out


Lol I'm not going to sand the nickel just the acrylic. why would I sand the nickel?


----------



## lever2stacks

Here is the last block that I sanded and polished.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> Here is the last block that I sanded and polished.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good Stuff!

TCO


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> Here is the last block that I sanded and polished.


That is gorgeous, just curious though (since i used to detail cars), but what did you use to polish and buff the acrylic? Id love to try it on my acrylic side window of my case since it tends to get micro scratches very VERY easily.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Any word on if such will also be available as an SLI top? Figured I might as well ask ^_^;;


I don't think so but i'll ask.


----------



## lever2stacks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> That is gorgeous, just curious though (since i used to detail cars), but what did you use to polish and buff the acrylic? Id love to try it on my acrylic side window of my case since it tends to get micro scratches very VERY easily.


I started with 600 grit sand paper and worked my way all the way up to 3000 grit then polished with plastix at the end. All done by hand buffers and sanders tend to melt the acrylic so it's better to use your hands it is a long process.

Here's the thread that I got all the info from http://www.overclock.net/t/1477681/polishing-acrylic-guide-tips-tricks


----------



## BURGER4life

Thought you meant the tooling marks on the block itself, not the top. Looked like it was the block itself on those pictures. Nevermind then


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> I started with 600 grit sand paper and worked my way all the way up to 3000 grit then polished with plastix at the end. All done by hand buffers and sanders tend to melt the acrylic so it's better to use your hands it is a long process.
> 
> Here's the thread that I got all the info from http://www.overclock.net/t/1477681/polishing-acrylic-guide-tips-tricks


Yea ive used plastix before, not a fan but it works really well. I always polish stuff by hand as well delicate stuff anyways.


----------



## lever2stacks

My EK stash for this next build.


----------



## lever2stacks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> Thought you meant the tooling marks on the block itself, not the top. Looked like it was the block itself on those pictures. Nevermind then


No worries things are so easy to get lost in text.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Hi guys.

I'm going to ask something tat has probably been asked a hundred times before, but considering I haven't been in the situation before I figure I would ask those of you that have. I'm looking at swapping out my current GPU with Vega when that launches, but since I have everything mounted in an open loop at the moment I can't exactly run the card without a block. I'm guessing most cards don't exactly have blocks ready at release, but is there any sort of average time span for their release? How do you guys handle this when you buy stuff at release day?


----------



## Ceadderman

Get a Reference card. You will have an easier time getting a block for Vega that way.

The second part is blocks are generally released a within a month for popular cards/reference.

The block for my 480 released fairly soon after the cards released. So since Vega is *supoosedly* releasing 3rd quarter(June-ish) the block should be released by the end of that period or beginning of 4th quarter.

I couldn't wait that long for Vega since offer was too good to refuse for my 480 and the NIB 480 block, then I got on open box sale from PPCs.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Get a Reference card. You will have an easier time getting a block for Vega that way.
> 
> The second part is blocks are generally released a within a month for popular cards/reference.
> 
> The block for my 480 released fairly soon after the cards released. So since Vega is *supoosedly* releasing 3rd quarter(June-ish) the block should be released by the end of that period or beginning of 4th quarter.
> 
> I couldn't wait that long for Vega since offer was too good to refuse for my 480 and the NIB 480 block, then I got on open box sale from PPCs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah, I will never go for a non reference design again after all the hassle I went through searching for a block for my current card just so that I had to settle on a thermosphere (which is good for what it is, but it's not exactly full cover).

As for the wait... Id hate waiting much longer than I have, but considering that I was looking at swapping out my card back in 2014-2015 I guess I can wait a bit more


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Yeah, I will never go for a non reference design again after all the hassle I went through searching for a block for my current card just so that I had to settle on a thermosphere (which is good for what it is, but it's not exactly full cover).
> 
> As for the wait... Id hate waiting much longer than I have, but considering that I was looking at swapping out my card back in 2014-2015 I guess I can wait a bit more


Did the same thing with the 780 FTW when it came out. Ended up almost hurting myself after realizing that there wasn't a full cover for it









TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Yeah, I will never go for a non reference design again after all the hassle I went through searching for a block for my current card just so that I had to settle on a thermosphere (which is good for what it is, but it's not exactly full cover).
> 
> As for the wait... Id hate waiting much longer than I have, but considering that I was looking at swapping out my card back in 2014-2015 I guess I can wait a bit more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did the same thing with the 780 FTW when it came out. Ended up almost hurting myself after realizing that there wasn't a full cover for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

That's why the deal for my 480 was too hard to pass up. I got an XFX 8gb 480 Radeon HD. Even then I was worried I might not be able to get a block for it. Luckily mine is definitely a Reference card. I first checked with EK's site but they didn't list my card in Configurator. It was only after I asked here in EK Club, that confirmation was provided. I think the issue was that Configurator has since undergone an update and it takes time to enter the information on their end to keep things clear for the person doing the query. Thankfully I have a hard time taking no for an answer.







lulz

Whether or not EK makes a block for cards like Sapphire Nitro(they don't btw) I simply cannot justify the purchase of multiple fan cards. You simply get locked to air from the date of purchase. So if you want to WC, then Radeon is where it's at. I can't speak to which nVidia cards they're available(or not) for but a good rule of thumb is Hamster wheel cards get the best coverage.









~Ceadder


----------



## nyk20z3

EK Gigabyte RGB monoblock -


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Yeah, I will never go for a non reference design again after all the hassle I went through searching for a block for my current card just so that I had to settle on a thermosphere (which is good for what it is, but it's not exactly full cover).
> 
> As for the wait... Id hate waiting much longer than I have, but considering that I was looking at swapping out my card back in 2014-2015 I guess I can wait a bit more


I'm right there with you!

I got a good deal (at the time) on here for a zotac amp extreme 980ti. When I finally decided I wanted to go full loop there weren't any blocks available...from anyone!

I got lucky and Bitspower did finally release one, only real issue was it was pretty pricey. Good looking block though.



And it came with the backplate!



Think it cost me like $225 shipped.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I'm right there with you!
> 
> I got a good deal (at the time) on here for a zotac amp extreme 980ti. When I finally decided I wanted to go full loop there weren't any blocks available...from anyone!
> 
> I got lucky and Bitspower did finally release one, only real issue was it was pretty pricey. Good looking block though.
> 
> 
> 
> And it came with the backplate!
> 
> 
> 
> Think it cost me like $225 shipped.


Yeah it can get real pricey, in my case it's real annoying as well since the only real difference is the placement of a bios button. I have seen blocks been converted for it, but I didn't want that hassle, and risk it leaking at one point to. I did find one on Aliexpress from a non specified brand, but considering the accuracy of a lot of the store pages there I really didn't want to bother. So I just bought a new in box thermosphere from someone who went full cover instead.

Thins time though, I'm going to learn from my mistakes and get a reference card. I'll make sure to choose one that doesn't put those stickers over the screws to (like XFX does these days, or at least did at one point), I think maybe sapphire will be good.


----------



## jtd964

My first water loop, Pretty much all EK stuff


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> EK Gigabyte RGB monoblock -


I like it. Though I cannot understand the Monoblock concept. I would rather run a dedicated board block rather than have to redo all the TIM when one area only needs a reapplication. That makes zero sense to me. I will likely have to get the Monoblock for Hero, but you can bet that I would rather not have to. Since EK chooses not to make a dedicated block, I am stuck with having to purchase the mb.









~Ceadder


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I like it. Though I cannot understand the Monoblock concept. I would rather run a dedicated board block rather than have to redo all the TIM when one area only needs a reapplication. That makes zero sense to me. I will likely have to get the Monoblock for Hero, but you can bet that I would rather not have to. Since EK chooses not to make a dedicated block, I am stuck with having to purchase the mb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Re-pasting takes like tiny drop of TIM why not redo it. Monoblocks are an awesome way to cool VRMs and provided even more OC headroom (provided they are designed correctly and cool the entire VRMs. Ill be getting one on the Crosshair VI depending on how well it works.


----------



## apw63

Nice
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtd964*
> 
> My first water loop, Pretty much all EK stuff
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice clean first time build. Good tube and wire work.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I like it. Though I cannot understand the Monoblock concept. I would rather run a dedicated board block rather than have to redo all the TIM when one area only needs a reapplication. That makes zero sense to me. I will likely have to get the Monoblock for Hero, but you can bet that I would rather not have to. Since EK chooses not to make a dedicated block, I am stuck with having to purchase the mb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-pasting takes like tiny drop of TIM why not redo it. Monoblocks are an awesome way to cool VRMs and provided even more OC headroom (provided they are designed correctly and cool the entire VRMs. Ill be getting one on the Crosshair VI depending on how well it works.
Click to expand...

I am getting it but I have a dedicated block on my signature rig and it kept my NB and SB chips relatively cool. I got 4ghz cooling under water at summer ambient Temps with a NB temp below 50c. So I know that my Mosfets were kept quite cool.heat was not the issue with my OC failures. Didn't have GPU cooling in the loop either and I had it flowing thru a 360 rad. Just MB and CPU. I'm sure that Mono block does the same thing. But again I'm of the mind that I would rather not have to replace all the TIM in one sitting when I get all but one application right. I got.my MB block right first try and I never had to go back under the hood to replace it. Just picked up a 3ml tube of hydronaut so it's not cost that I am worried about. Especially for a chip like the 1800x. If I were worried about cost I wouldn't have spent so much on the 1800x.









Or on all the EK parts I own.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I like it. Though I cannot understand the Monoblock concept. I would rather run a dedicated board block rather than have to redo all the TIM when one area only needs a reapplication. That makes zero sense to me. I will likely have to get the Monoblock for Hero, but you can bet that I would rather not have to. Since EK chooses not to make a dedicated block, I am stuck with having to purchase the mb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I just never cared for the look a monoblock quite honestly.









TCO


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I just never cared for the look a monoblock quite honestly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Difference between form over function i guess, its down to the individual.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Difference between form over function i guess, its down to the individual.


I agree it comes down to individual preference, 100%

Both ways to cool a cpu are efficient. Either using a block or a full monoblock.

All in the eye of the beholder.

TCO


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I agree it comes down to individual preference, 100%
> 
> Both ways to cool a cpu are efficient. Either using a block or a full monoblock.
> 
> All in the eye of the beholder.
> 
> TCO


I think my total build is up to 2500€ with absolutely everything (excluding monitor/k/m) and it doesnt look like a 2500€ build but it is super functional. I love the zmt cables and wouldnt have it any other way, looks weird to some but functions really well. Ive gone thru this build 4-5x with no leaks (except a 90° ek fitting that got replaced instantly)


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtd964*
> 
> My first water loop, Pretty much all EK stuff


Good start! However if you are doing all parallel lines, then keep the line from the pump to the cpu block parallel also, the way it is now make it look like you kinda got lazy and just took the easiest route. Looks like you used a silicon insert that was a little too small for the tubing's ID, that's why the elbow is a little kinked at the bend to the GPU. I'd also get a bigger res too to fill up the case more. Fit the ATX cables through the grommets next to it for a cleaner look, and get matching red ones for the GPU, i'm seeing white now? If the HDD bays are not being used, take them out and put in a bigger rad/res. Move the SSD to the back of the case, just use double side tape or something, so the wires are not hanging around down there, or get an M.2 drive for the mobo, that slot looks awfully lonely right now









Constructive criticism, please don't take offense.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Good start! However if you are doing all parallel lines, then keep the line from the pump to the cpu block parallel also, the way it is now make it look like you kinda got lazy and just took the easiest route. Looks like you used a silicon insert that was a little too small for the tubing's ID, that's why the elbow is a little kinked at the bend to the GPU. I'd also get a bigger res too to fill up the case more. Fit the ATX cables through the grommets next to it for a cleaner look, and get matching red ones for the GPU, i'm seeing white now? If the HDD bays are not being used, take them out and put in a bigger rad/res. Move the SSD to the back of the case, just use double side tape or something, so the wires are not hanging around down there, or get an M.2 drive for the mobo, that slot looks awfully lonely right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Constructive criticism, please don't take offense.


Why the larger pump/res? I get that you would want to fill up the space, but I would much rather wedge in a slim 240mm rad in the bottom for some extra cooling and the same effect of filling out space. Everyone does things differently though, and I actually barely managed to get a 150mm res fit in the humongous Enthoo Prime because of my focus on massive radiators


----------



## Ceadderman

Thing is, once you reach ambient you cannot go lower without assistance. Adding another radiator is purely for aesthetics at that point. For me Rads are aesthetically pleasing. For others a beefy pump setup is. So I can dig it.









~Ceadder


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Why the larger pump/res? I get that you would want to fill up the space, but I would much rather wedge in a slim 240mm rad in the bottom for some extra cooling and the same effect of filling out space. Everyone does things differently though, and I actually barely managed to get a 150mm res fit in the humongous Enthoo Prime because of my focus on massive radiators


Look at his case layout, i don't think you can add a rad on the bottom, he's got plenty of room in the front of the case for a rad/fans however, and he still has a lot of space left for a bigger res to fill out the case. Personal preference, i managed to squeeze a 170mm into a micro atx case, fills it out completely, had to fabricate mounting points for the pump as well as the power supply.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Look at his case layout, i don't think you can add a rad on the bottom, he's got plenty of room in the front of the case for a rad/fans however, and he still has a lot of space left for a bigger res to fill out the case. Personal preference, i managed to squeeze a 170mm into a micro atx case, fills it out completely, had to fabricate mounting points for the pump as well as the power supply.


Yeah, it's going to be tight if he can ever manage to sqeeze it in but I always just love adding radiators until the thing crumbles under it's own weight. Actually contemplating adding another single 140mm radiator to my own setup even though I already have a dual 480mm monsta setup (way to overkill for a two block loop) just because I have it laying around and that exhaust fan of mine looks a bit puny.









Anyway... @jtd964 it's a clean setup that you have, and I actually don't mind the cross tube from the CPU to the pump since it ads a bit of an interesting twist to it. It would be really cool if you could do a paralell run from the gpu to the pump so that you would have two sort of parallel angled runs.

As for places to improve if you ever want to at one point, filling up that empty space in the front with something would really complete the build. Maybe some figurines or something if you don't want to focus on more cooling.


----------



## nyk20z3

The LED strip on the Gigabyte Z270X monoblock comes facing downwards stock so the first step was to reverse it so its facing up and can be routed through the back of the case -


----------



## Ceadderman

Good thing C6H has two RGB headers.









~Ceadder


----------



## mrgnex

Does anyone know how to unclog/clean radiators? I think my brother's radiators are clogged. Temps seem way too high and his last block was dirty. It stuck to the res too.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Does anyone know how to unclog/clean radiators? I think my brother's radiators are clogged. Temps seem way too high and his last block was dirty. It stuck to the res too.


Vinegar water mix, or you can buy the mayhems cleaning kit which seems to work really well. You could also try like a draino or chemical to unclog toilets/drains but i would dilute it. Copper rads are pretty solid.


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Vinegar water mix, or you can buy the mayhems cleaning kit which seems to work really well. You could also try like a draino or chemical to unclog toilets/drains but i would dilute it. Copper rads are pretty solid.


Thanks! I'll try that.. I am thinking though. There does come hot/warm air out of his exhaust rad. Hmm..


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Vinegar water mix, or you can buy the mayhems cleaning kit which seems to work really well. You could also try like a draino or chemical to unclog toilets/drains but i would dilute it. Copper rads are pretty solid.


Probably would not use regular products for unclogging sinks and toilets, a lot of them contain caustic soda (Sodium Hydroxide) which can be quite nasty to metals (especially aluminium if you have a mixed loop, since it actually more or less eats aluminium). It's probably going to be far safer to stick with vinegar or as you suggested Mayhems cleaning kit.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Probably would not use regular products for unclogging sinks and toilets, a lot of them contain caustic soda (Sodium Hydroxide) which can be quite nasty to metals (especially aluminium if you have a mixed loop, since it actually more or less eats aluminium). It's probably going to be far safer to stick with vinegar or as you suggested Mayhems cleaning kit.


Oh i figured he was removing his rads from his loop and cleaning it that way haha.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Oh i figured he was removing his rads from his loop and cleaning it that way haha.


Right... still though, I wouldn't use Sodium Hydroxide for cleaning stuff that has as thin walls as a radiator. It may just be personal preference, but I tend to be careful with these things due to a heap of clumsy mistakes years ago. It's also worth mentioning that all rads are somewhat mixed metal as in that you have solder and so on, and I am unsure how Tin and Zinc reacts to it (steel actually rusts quite rapidly when in contact with caustic soda, just as an example). So using weaker sorts of alkaline solutions like vinegar or products specifically for cleaning out rads is probably the wisest cause of action.

Oh, and even though there are not al that many of them outside of AIO units these days, it may be a aluminium radiator. Which would end BADLY.

Simply put, I would be hesitant of using Sodium Hydroxide unless you know exaclty what materials you are using it on and the effects it has on them.


----------



## damstr

Took some better pictures. Really happy with how everything came out. Only thing I didn't get to do was mounted the PE 120 rad. It's probably better that I left the rear exhaust fan as an intake to be honest.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Thanks! I'll try that.. I am thinking though. There does come hot/warm air out of his exhaust rad. Hmm..


Blocks are clogged not the rads. Take apart and clean


----------



## Touge180SX

Hey everyone, couple of quick questions:

1. Is this the stock extender that comes in EK rads:

EK-Extender G1/4 Socket - Black
EAN: 3831109845950
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-black

2. If I accidentally broke one (don't ask, impatience and stupidity), can I use any G1/4 male-female extender in its place or do I need to use that one?

Thanks everyone!


----------



## Cozmo85

Any news on 1080ti block availability?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Hey everyone, couple of quick questions:
> 
> 1. Is this the stock extender that comes in EK rads:
> 
> EK-Extender G1/4 Socket - Black
> EAN: 3831109845950
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-black
> 
> 2. If I accidentally broke one (don't ask, impatience and stupidity), can I use any G1/4 male-female extender in its place or do I need to use that one?
> 
> Thanks everyone!


Answered your PM.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Any news on 1080ti block availability?


Should be available in the first week of April.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Answered your PM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be available in the first week of April.


backplates too?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> backplates too?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


At least the black one


----------



## geriatricpollywog

What is the reason to wait for a Ti block over purchasing a readily-available Titan XP block?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> What is the reason to wait for a Ti block over purchasing a readily-available Titan XP block?


Why Rep a card you don't run when you can Rep a card you do.









~Ceadder


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why Rep a card you don't run when you can Rep a card you do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was way off. I thought people were put off by having 12 ram pads instead of 11.


----------



## DyndaS




----------



## paskowitz

Great job with the soft tubing.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> What is the reason to wait for a Ti block over purchasing a readily-available Titan XP block?


Dont have my ti yet so doesn't hurt to wait, plus the ti block has the single slot bracket included.


----------



## damstr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Dont have my ti yet so doesn't hurt to wait, plus the ti block has the single slot bracket included.


Yep you can get the single slot bracket but you can also buy it separately.


----------



## Panzerfury

Hello everyone.

I'm thinking about watercooling my graphics card, but i'm using the corsair 460x rgb case which means I don't have much room.

Currently I have an H100i in the front for my CPU, so i'm thinking i'm forced to split pump and res.

I was think that I would mount an EK-XTOP Revo D5, on the back 120 mm fan with an EK-UNI pumpbracket (vertical) https://www.caseking.de/en/ek-water-blocks-ek-uni-pumpenhalterung-120mm-luefter-vertikal-waek-1127.html

For the res, I would like an EK-RES X3 110. However, i'm unsure if I can mount it to a rad. I was wondering if this one: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan
with https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-holder-50-70 those would work. So I mount the uni pump bracket to the H100i radiator, and then use the uni-holder and mount that to the bracket.

Does anyone know if it will work, or have any other ideas?


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Oh i figured he was removing his rads from his loop and cleaning it that way haha.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Right... still though, I wouldn't use Sodium Hydroxide for cleaning stuff that has as thin walls as a radiator. It may just be personal preference, but I tend to be careful with these things due to a heap of clumsy mistakes years ago. It's also worth mentioning that all rads are somewhat mixed metal as in that you have solder and so on, and I am unsure how Tin and Zinc reacts to it (steel actually rusts quite rapidly when in contact with caustic soda, just as an example). So using weaker sorts of alkaline solutions like vinegar or products specifically for cleaning out rads is probably the wisest cause of action.
> 
> Oh, and even though there are not al that many of them outside of AIO units these days, it may be a aluminium radiator. Which would end BADLY.
> 
> Simply put, I would be hesitant of using Sodium Hydroxide unless you know exaclty what materials you are using it on and the effects it has on them.


Thanks guys. Flushed the rads and they are sitting for the entire night/ I noticed the water is blue.. The tubing is too. But it also might be oxidized copper?

https://postimg.org/image/5ubbaf829/


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Thanks guys. Flushed the rads and they are sitting for the entire night/ I noticed the water is blue.. The tubing is too. But it also might be oxidized copper?
> 
> https://postimg.org/image/5ubbaf829/


Thats the color mine was when i flushed it the first day i got em (watercooling components especially rads, should always be cleaned before being installed)


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Thats the color mine was when i flushed it the first day i got em (watercooling components especially rads, should always be cleaned before being installed)


We did. The other one was second hand. Probably not good enough apparently.. Thanks!


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> We did. The other one was second hand. Probably not good enough apparently.. Thanks!


I bought 2 alphacool rads that were pretty clean from the get go. Even after flushing em 3-4x with vinegar/distilled then flush with distilled i still ended up having a bit of crud in my cpu block, i removed that 2-3x to clean it as well. Since then its been smooth sailing.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Best way I have found to clean out rads is to set up the loop with a filter in it (just rads, pump and reservoir). I used one of those filters that you place under your sink. Worked wonders and it makes it so that you don't ahve to bother flushing it manually, you can just put it on and let it be over the night. Come morning you do a regular flush of the rads and they should be sqeaky clean.

Just make sure you pout the filter at the inletport for the pump/reservoir so that you don't gunk up those parts.


----------



## skingun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Best way I have found to clean out rads is to set up the loop with a filter in it (just rads, pump and reservoir). I used one of those filters that you place under your sink. Worked wonders and it makes it so that you don't ahve to bother flushing it manually, you can just put it on and let it be over the night. Come morning you do a regular flush of the rads and they should be sqeaky clean.
> 
> Just make sure you pout the filter at the inletport for the pump/reservoir so that you don't gunk up those parts.


That's exactly what I do. But I clean the rads with Mayhems part 1 and part 2 first. Rinse out. Build the whole loop then connect an under sink water filter with a 50 micron filter cartridge, fill with clear coolant and leave it running with pumps on max speed overnight.

Works a charm.


----------



## skingun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Thats the color mine was when i flushed it the first day i got em (watercooling components especially rads, should always be cleaned before being installed)


Did you use a Mayhems flush kit?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> Did you use a Mayhems flush kit?


Too expensive here, i boil some distilled water add vinegar and shake the rad for 5mins, then flush with tap at low pressure then rinse with distilled. Did that 3-4x per rad.


----------



## Jyve

I'm fairly new to liquid cooling. Currently I'm using the clear ekoolant with zmt tubing. I've been itching for more color though.

Is the maintenance really any higher if I were to swap to primoflex tubing and ek pastel red/distilled water? How about plasticizer?

Am I better off sticking with what I have already going for less potential headaches?


----------



## Paul17041993

Distilled water + silver water/bullet/coil probably has the lowest maintenance of all. Once you start to add anything complex such as dye things can go pretty bad either over time or immediately, it's also a good idea to use plain distilled for a while and then drain the loop before adding anything as it flushes out any residue from manufacturing.

I might try adding dye to my loop again after I've re-built it (Ryzen upgrade), but the first time it had dye the stuff turned into a yellow-green gunk in the first month, possibly due to residue in the radiator.


----------



## Jyve

Yeah. That's really my fear. I suppose my initial thoughts of it not being worth the potential hassle is probably the right one.


----------



## emsj86

It really is not that bad. Easily can run for a year if not more. Usually you change things by that time anyway. Either way if you
Just change the tubing once a year that's 25 dollars for a year. How many things that cost that last that long


----------



## madweazl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Too expensive here, i boil some distilled water add vinegar and shake the rad for 5mins, then flush with tap at low pressure then rinse with distilled. Did that 3-4x per rad.


Why do you boil distilled water?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> Why do you boil distilled water?


Why not? Makes it easier for the vinegar to mix up, and nice hot water helps the left over paint loosen up a lot easier then cold water.


----------



## Kimir

It's needed to be hot to dissolve flux on the radiators.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

So after reading some of the stuff about EK's nickel-plated blocks, I decided against using a kill coil and got PT Nuke as some users said that using that is no longer a problem. Yesterday I emailed EK just to confirm but got a response saying it is STILL the case that they do not recommend PT Nuke. I asked them about PrimoChill's Liquid Utopia and they said it hasn't been tested but they don't see why it couldn't be used.

Jesus. Good thing the kill coil and PT Nuke cost me f'ing nothing and in retrospect I wish I made it easier and just got the all-copper TXP block but for those of you with the nickel-plated version of that block (or I guess any EK block): what are you using for biocide/corrosion?


----------



## m5655

I've looked back through a number of the posts here (good lord this is a long thread), looking for suggestions to answer my question, but I'd be days getting through all of them...so, I'm asking anyway.

Having always wanted to build a water cooled system, I dove into shallow water head first, buying an ekwg p360 and gpu water block. I poked around a bit until i found someone who said they were happy with their inwin 303 case, adn when I saw the full width tempered glass panel, I was sold. When it arrived yesterday, I was less sold. I've seen at least one person who managed to mount it sideways, but it seems like the only way it would work is with 90 degree connectors, and even then you'd have to leave the glass off to get air into the fans (unless i'm missing something.

so, I started looking for other cases, using the case compat tool...but looking at some of the suggestions, I'm still wary. Looking around a little more, I found this thread and figured I'd ask here.

I started out thinking that I wanted a mid tower, but at this point, what I want is a case suitable to a radiator (preferable with a transparent panel so that I can see the cooling I paid for).

Anyone have suggestions for cases I can look into that will make installation a little less of a "cram it in" proposition?


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m5655*
> 
> I've looked back through a number of the posts here (good lord this is a long thread), looking for suggestions to answer my question, but I'd be days getting through all of them...so, I'm asking anyway.
> 
> Having always wanted to build a water cooled system, I dove into shallow water head first, buying an ekwg p360 and gpu water block. I poked around a bit until i found someone who said they were happy with their inwin 303 case, adn when I saw the full width tempered glass panel, I was sold. When it arrived yesterday, I was less sold. I've seen at least one person who managed to mount it sideways, but it seems like the only way it would work is with 90 degree connectors, and even then you'd have to leave the glass off to get air into the fans (unless i'm missing something.
> 
> so, I started looking for other cases, using the case compat tool...but looking at some of the suggestions, I'm still wary. Looking around a little more, I found this thread and figured I'd ask here.
> 
> I started out thinking that I wanted a mid tower, but at this point, what I want is a case suitable to a radiator (preferable with a transparent panel so that I can see the cooling I paid for).
> 
> Anyone have suggestions for cases I can look into that will make installation a little less of a "cram it in" proposition?


Thermaltake P5. Built for water-cooling. Reasonably priced (I think there's still the Newegg deal to get it for $99 after $30 MiR).

Go get one. Then join the P5 owner's club on this site.

Thank me later


----------



## pnuttz

Does ek have a waterblock for the 1070 gtx ftw2 Or could i just use the ftw block?


----------



## Ceadderman

I have a 932. It's not a full window but I could stuff a 360 in it without issues and and see most everything inside it. If I want I can run w/o the door and will see everything. They are even still on the market so long after their release. I like mine so much am in the process of modding it. It's completely dismantled atm, and I bought a used one for $50 so I can have my system back while modding the original.









No glass window. But I am okay with that because I have a toddler.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m5655*
> 
> I've looked back through a number of the posts here (good lord this is a long thread), looking for suggestions to answer my question, but I'd be days getting through all of them...so, I'm asking anyway.
> 
> Having always wanted to build a water cooled system, I dove into shallow water head first, buying an ekwg p360 and gpu water block. I poked around a bit until i found someone who said they were happy with their inwin 303 case, adn when I saw the full width tempered glass panel, I was sold. When it arrived yesterday, I was less sold. I've seen at least one person who managed to mount it sideways, but it seems like the only way it would work is with 90 degree connectors, and even then you'd have to leave the glass off to get air into the fans (unless i'm missing something.
> 
> so, I started looking for other cases, using the case compat tool...but looking at some of the suggestions, I'm still wary. Looking around a little more, I found this thread and figured I'd ask here.
> 
> I started out thinking that I wanted a mid tower, but at this point, what I want is a case suitable to a radiator (preferable with a transparent panel so that I can see the cooling I paid for).
> 
> Anyone have suggestions for cases I can look into that will make installation a little less of a "cram it in" proposition?


There are lots of cases that are easy to build in, both midi and full towers. Phanteks cases comes to mind, and the Fractal Design Define S supports a 360mm radiator in to without any issues. There are also a ton of other models that you can choose (I think Corsair and Cooler Master has a couple with full glass side doors).

Really though, what I experienced was that the best is to find some cases that you want and then watch some build logs on youtube to see what can be crammed in and how easily. I went in the trap of thinking I could cram in a lot more in my previous case than what proved to be possible, so I can't stress enough that you should check to see what and how it's been done before in a case that you want (InWin cases tend to be bad at optimizing the space, but they look gorgeous).


----------



## Ceadderman

^ Agreed.









~Ceadder


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Officially part of the club.



This is going on a 1080Ti.


----------



## Ceadderman

Just received my 480 block and 360 SE Radiator. Cannot put into words how smexy these parts are. I am extatic that the block comes with a single plate replacement for the stock card.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m5655*
> 
> I've looked back through a number of the posts here (good lord this is a long thread), looking for suggestions to answer my question, but I'd be days getting through all of them...so, I'm asking anyway.
> 
> Having always wanted to build a water cooled system, I dove into shallow water head first, buying an ekwg p360 and gpu water block. I poked around a bit until i found someone who said they were happy with their inwin 303 case, adn when I saw the full width tempered glass panel, I was sold. When it arrived yesterday, I was less sold. I've seen at least one person who managed to mount it sideways, but it seems like the only way it would work is with 90 degree connectors, and even then you'd have to leave the glass off to get air into the fans (unless i'm missing something.
> 
> so, I started looking for other cases, using the case compat tool...but looking at some of the suggestions, I'm still wary. Looking around a little more, I found this thread and figured I'd ask here.
> 
> I started out thinking that I wanted a mid tower, but at this point, what I want is a case suitable to a radiator (preferable with a transparent panel so that I can see the cooling I paid for).
> 
> Anyone have suggestions for cases I can look into that will make installation a little less of a "cram it in" proposition?


A case labs case


----------



## Pharcyide

Just started using EK products. So far so good! Love the look of their products and no issues so far. I'm running an EK-XTOP D5 Vario with pump and an EK-Supremacy MX Plexi CPU Block with a Circuit Board Pattern and white LEDs.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> There are lots of cases that are easy to build in, both midi and full towers. Phanteks cases comes to mind, and the Fractal Design Define S supports a 360mm radiator in to without any issues. There are also a ton of other models that you can choose (I think Corsair and Cooler Master has a couple with full glass side doors).
> 
> Really though, what I experienced was that the best is to find some cases that you want and then watch some build logs on youtube to see what can be crammed in and how easily. I went in the trap of thinking I could cram in a lot more in my previous case than what proved to be possible, so I can't stress enough that you should check to see what and how it's been done before in a case that you want (InWin cases tend to be bad at optimizing the space, but they look gorgeous).


Best is to just get a case labs case!! Easiest to build in, decent looks and made in USA of quality material!!!!


----------



## Alight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Best is to just get a case labs case!! Easiest to build in, decent looks and made in USA of quality material!!!!


Some of us don't care for the monolithic looks or massive price tags that come with caselabs cases. Also, "made in USA" doesn't mean better quality these days. Where do you think your processor, motherboard, and GPU are made?


----------



## Touge180SX

Stupid question, but is there anyway to re-position the anti-cyclone EK square that is inside of the Revo D5 res without turning the whole assembly (don't want to move the inlet/outlet)?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> There are lots of cases that are easy to build in, both midi and full towers. Phanteks cases comes to mind, and the Fractal Design Define S supports a 360mm radiator in to without any issues. There are also a ton of other models that you can choose (I think Corsair and Cooler Master has a couple with full glass side doors).
> 
> Really though, what I experienced was that the best is to find some cases that you want and then watch some build logs on youtube to see what can be crammed in and how easily. I went in the trap of thinking I could cram in a lot more in my previous case than what proved to be possible, so I can't stress enough that you should check to see what and how it's been done before in a case that you want (InWin cases tend to be bad at optimizing the space, but they look gorgeous).


In no particular order... In Win 909, Phanteks Evolv ATX TG and the Lian Li PC-09.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alight*
> 
> Some of us don't care for the monolithic looks or massive price tags that come with caselabs cases. Also, "made in USA" doesn't mean better quality these days. Where do you think your processor, motherboard, and GPU are made?


I agree looks are a individual thing. But price is not huge not for what you get. He asked for the best and easiest case to work in and install W/C gear in and this would be a case labs case. Now everyone might not like the look of them or the price but they meet the requirements better than any other case.


----------



## m5655

Well, I headed off to a local shop to see a fractal design define S with a friend of mine. we took the monolithic radiator with us to make sure it would fit.

They had a system on display and we managed to take it completely apart and put it back together. I liked a lot of design elements of that case (thought the window was acrylic instead of tempered glass, which was unfortunate). since everything else seemed good, I took it home and started putting it together. I opted for putting the radiator on the front since I liked the look when the top was covered.

I was impressed in general, though my first attempt at installing the radiator exposed the issue that with the radiator up front, you need to mount the reservoir to the bottom. because of the case design, it's sitting a little too close to the side to use the In port without either putting a 90 degree fitting on it, or turning it so that the fittings face left, which means you don't get to see the cool EK logo (it would be nice if you could turn that thing 90 degrees itself).

oh well, I suppose it's a learning process. I should have take the advice of spending a week looking at other builds. I'd seen a few but was mostly looking at the radiator placement. a few of them don't even have the reservoir installed.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Best is to just get a case labs case!! Easiest to build in, decent looks and made in USA of quality material!!!!


While Case Labs offers unrivalled modularity they are far from budget oriented and especially so if you live outside of North America. While full of options for how you want to set up your case, they don't offer any features at all if that is something the user is after (fans, lights... so on). The look is also... an acquired taste, they look clean but are essentially just a box.

So while Case Labs is a valid suggestion, it does not mean they are the go to answer for all needs.

Also... made in USA has not been synonyms with quality in a long time, or at least anywhere outside of USA (not saying it's bad, just saying that isn't necessarily an argument in itself).

Edit: I see the point was made before this post, anyway... I'm not saying Case Labs cases is a bad choice here, I'm simply saying that it's far from the only good option which you seemed to be hinting at. They also cost about 3 times as much (though considering the amount of work put in them it's somewhat of a valid price tag, but a factory fresh case will fit most people better due to this).


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Don't forget Parvum has a wide selection of really nice looking cases, and you can easily go air or watercooled with them. No tempered glass windows though


----------



## rolandos582

Can someone tell me what the downside is of removing the EK anti-cyclon foam or logo? The logo would stick out through my red colour and looks disturbing. Might use the foam but haven't decided. Any reason to not use it or use the foam?


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolandos582*
> 
> Can someone tell me what the downside is of removing the EK anti-cyclon foam or logo? The logo would stick out through my red colour and looks disturbing. Might use the foam but haven't decided. Any reason to not use it or use the foam?


They'r doing 2 different roles...1 is braking the cyclone, bubbles...1 is catching impurities.
Maybe a better idea to take it out and paint it ?..idk, never tried to remove it.

Just my 2 cents.


----------



## rolandos582

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> They'r doing 2 different roles...1 is braking the cyclone, bubbles...1 is catching impurities.
> Maybe a better idea to take it out and paint it ?..idk, never tried to remove it.
> 
> Just my 2 cents.


I mean yeah maybe, but I dont really think that's a great idea.


Probably just gonna use the middle one, I got that one too and you wont be able to see it. The EK logo won't work unless yeah... painted maybe


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolandos582*
> 
> I mean yeah maybe, but I dont really think that's a great idea.
> 
> 
> Probably just gonna use the middle one, I got that one too and you wont be able to see it. The EK logo won't work unless yeah... painted maybe


Are you going with coloured fluid or just coloured tubing? Just curious since you say it's going to clash with the colour theme.


----------



## RadActiveLobstr

@akira749

So 'Q2 starts on Saturday, how bout some info on the EK-MLC products?


----------



## rolandos582

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Are you going with coloured fluid or just coloured tubing? Just curious since you say it's going to clash with the colour theme.


I have primochill acrylic tubing and using EK Ekoolant pastel red. And I can see the EK logo through the pastel red which is disturbing to me


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pnuttz*
> 
> Does ek have a waterblock for the 1070 gtx ftw2 Or could i just use the ftw block?


We're working on a block for this. I'll try to have a better ETA.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Stupid question, but is there anyway to re-position the anti-cyclone EK square that is inside of the Revo D5 res without turning the whole assembly (don't want to move the inlet/outlet)?


Re-position in which way?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RadActiveLobstr*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> So 'Q2 starts on Saturday, how bout some info on the EK-MLC products?


No news on my side either....


----------



## akira749

EK introduces EK-CryoFuel coolants


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolandos582*
> 
> I have primochill acrylic tubing and using EK Ekoolant pastel red. And I can see the EK logo through the pastel red which is disturbing to me


I see... I was going to make the argument that the acrylic logo bit shouldn't be much of an issue since it would more or less blend in with the colour, but since you are using a pastel based colour I can see how it's an issue if you actually manage to see it through the colour. It looks awesome when used with regular dye though (in my opinion).


----------



## rolandos582

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I see... I was going to make the argument that the acrylic logo bit shouldn't be much of an issue since it would more or less blend in with the colour, but since you are using a pastel based colour I can see how it's an issue if you actually manage to see it through the colour. It looks awesome when used with regular dye though (in my opinion).


Yeah I can totally see it being awesome. But with my dye its causing issues that you can see it on the side through my X3 250ML reservoir.


Not sure if you can see it good, but you definitely see it when you look at it. Can't make a good picture since I removed them now and loop is under construction








This just one of my old pictures


----------



## cmpxchg8b

It's the res divider inserted partially sideways. Does not affect anything but if this bothers you, next time you take the res apart you can straighten it out.
Happened to me too, and my OCD was hurting me.


----------



## rolandos582

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> It's the res divider inserted partially sideways. Does not affect anything but if this bothers you, next time you take the res apart you can straighten it out.
> Happened to me too, and my OCD was hurting me.


I had it turned the other way too, but it was still visual. Idk why, maybe cause the fluent isnt thick enough or something?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Turned the other way what - base? tube? insert? all of it? The insert is rectangular, so if it comes closer on one side, it must come farther away on the other side. Pretty sure it's just a matter of straightening it out. In fact you can see the insert in the other res too, but it stands straight and so is evenly spaced and faint.


----------



## rolandos582

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Turned the other way what - base? tube? insert? all of it? The insert is rectangular, so if it comes closer on one side, it must come farther away on the other side. Pretty sure it's just a matter of straightening it out. In fact you can see the insert in the other res too, but it stands straight and so is evenly spaced and faint.


Tried base and insert. Nothing really came out great, still was able to see it








What you think of the polyether anti-cyclon foam? Any experience with it? Might aswell just put that in and problem solved no?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

I don't trust that foam, personally. It looks flow-restrictive and prone to fragmenting.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

I have been using the foam for 3 months and it does the job. I am afraid of it fragmenting over time, so I may switch to the plastic EK logo.

Does the plastic EK logo help prevent a cyclone?


----------



## rolandos582

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I have been using the foam for 3 months and it does the job. I am afraid of it fragmenting over time, so I may switch to the plastic EK logo.
> 
> Does the plastic EK logo help prevent a cyclone?


Hmm yeah haven't thought of that. Have you noticed any? I don't want any fragments in my pumps.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> I don't trust that foam, personally. It looks flow-restrictive and prone to fragmenting.


My flow is quite high so no problems there but I dunno about the foam, that's why I was wondering. Any alternatives?


----------



## RadActiveLobstr

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/627csq/ekwb_aio_coolers_delayed_until_q2/


----------



## cmpxchg8b

No cyclone for me at max RPM (D5 12V). Just a little bit of water rotation. I haven't tried that without the EK logo insert though so can't really tell how much difference it makes.

I honestly don't see what's this whole conversation is about. All I see in the picture is slightly misaligned logo insert which is not a big deal and can be corrected next time the loop is down for maintenance.

If nothing else then tilt it the opposite way so you can't see it anymore.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Re-position in which way?


Akira,

I mean the direction that it is facing. I want it so I can see the EK logo facing my window in my case. Right now it faces perpendicular to my case but I can't rotate the res due to tube routing.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> So after reading some of the stuff about EK's nickel-plated blocks, I decided against using a kill coil and got PT Nuke as some users said that using that is no longer a problem. Yesterday I emailed EK just to confirm but got a response saying it is STILL the case that they do not recommend PT Nuke. I asked them about PrimoChill's Liquid Utopia and they said it hasn't been tested but they don't see why it couldn't be used.
> 
> Jesus. Good thing the kill coil and PT Nuke cost me f'ing nothing and in retrospect I wish I made it easier and just got the all-copper TXP block but for those of you with the nickel-plated version of that block (or I guess any EK block): what are you using for biocide/corrosion?


Pure (ie medical/colloidal) silver should be perfectly safe, it's only if you get something cheap and nasty (commonly contains aluminium) that it can strip the blocks. You don't need much either, I mixed about 400mL of silverwater with 2.5L more of pure water in my loop and it's still perfectly clear after a year of heavy use.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolandos582*
> 
> Yeah I can totally see it being awesome. But with my dye its causing issues that you can see it on the side through my X3 250ML reservoir.
> 
> 
> Not sure if you can see it good, but you definitely see it when you look at it. Can't make a good picture since I removed them now and loop is under construction
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This just one of my old pictures


I'd just take them out and leave it at that, the reservoirs are so tall that they shouldn't be able to vortex. If they do in fact vortex slightly then it'll probably look good actually.


----------



## Vlada011

EKWB MLC AIO System arrive this Spring.
I believe in EKWB Style and performance.
Long time I dream about some kit as Predator where I could connect GPU.
Maybe MLC?

But I'm in love in these EKWB EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM Glass...

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-glass-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Akira,
> 
> I mean the direction that it is facing. I want it so I can see the EK logo facing my window in my case. Right now it faces perpendicular to my case but I can't rotate the res due to tube routing.


Unfortunately it's not possible to re-position it in this matter. I faced the same issue in a previous build.


----------



## Rainmaker91

So... anyone know what may cause corrosion in a loop? When I was cleaning out my CPU block I noticed some blue stripes where the nickel block and the acrylic meets, and when I started going at it with a toothbrush and dishwasher soap (non abrasive) I noticed that I was actually removing the nickel plating and getting down to pure copper. I thought I was fine with how I set up this loop, I was careful not to use sliver a silver coil as someone mentioned it as a bad addition to the loop. I also steered away form regular PTNuke which contains Copper Sulfate (again I read somewhere that it was a bad thing for my blocks), and instead opted for an additive containing Benzalkonium Chloride and de-mineralized water.

Other than that my loop consists of copper rads, brass fittings and nickel plated blocks.

It just seems strange to me since I think I did everything correctly, but there might be something missing. I'm not overly worried about my CPU block since I bought it used anyway, but it is slightly annoying.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Unfortunately it's not possible to re-position it in this matter. I faced the same issue in a previous build.


That sucks. Thank Akira!


----------



## madweazl

How much longer for the C6H monoblocks? I want to get to work dag nabbit!


----------



## MisticOne

Add me to the list I have the EK-KIT X360 kit.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well finally made the trip with the family back up to Nantucket, and this was awaiting me - good road trip present for myself.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Pure (ie medical/colloidal) silver should be perfectly safe, it's only if you get something cheap and nasty (commonly contains aluminium) that it can strip the blocks. You don't need much either, I mixed about 400mL of silverwater with 2.5L more of pure water in my loop and it's still perfectly clear after a year of heavy use.


Just noticed now actually that some black stuff has popped up in my res and CPU block, however it doesn't look to be algae or mold exactly. Instead it appears to be an oxide powder that could either be silver or copper due to air buildup in the reservoir...










Can nickel plating turn green though? there also appears to be a green outline on my CPU block for some reason. Hopefully I'll sort out my AM4 upgrade soon so I can do a full tear-down, may end up using EK's new coolant too...


----------



## IchiRuki

@akira749

Hey, Akira

just a quick question regarding the new EK-CryoFuel... is it fully compatible with PETG tubing? I have EK-PETG tubing, so I hope everything will be fine, just wanted to clarify









Thank you


----------



## Wally West

on the site it says compatible with PETG









https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-blood-red-concentrate-100-ml
- Compatible with Acrylic, PETG, POM Acetal, rubber (NBR, EPDM, and Norprene) materials


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Just noticed now actually that some black stuff has popped up in my res and CPU block, however it doesn't look to be algae or mold exactly. Instead it appears to be an oxide powder that could either be silver or copper due to air buildup in the reservoir...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can nickel plating turn green though? there also appears to be a green outline on my CPU block for some reason. Hopefully I'll sort out my AM4 upgrade soon so I can do a full tear-down, may end up using EK's new coolant too...


Nickel Plating does NOT turn green but either corroding copper does and Algae can be green. Either way not a good thing.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Nickel Plating does NOT turn green but either corroding copper does and Algae can be green. Either way not a good thing.


Exactly what I figured, algae is also a possibility if the loop ended up running out of silver from the oxidation, though it's odd that the stuff is only visible in a ring around the edge of the inside of the block...
Then again, there could have still been some flux and bad dye in the loop that's simply built up under the edge...


Spoiler: Images








Looks like something may have started growing inside the CPU block as well, for now I've just topped the loop back up with more silver water as a temporary measure.

note; the stuff in the res is definitely an oxide as algae/mould doesn't glitter


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Exactly what I figured, algae is also a possibility if the loop ended up running out of silver from the oxidation, though it's odd that the stuff is only visible in a ring around the edge of the inside of the block...
> Then again, there could have still been some flux and bad dye in the loop that's simply built up under the edge...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like something may have started growing inside the CPU block as well, for now I've just topped the loop back up with more silver water as a temporary measure.


Looks more like you have algae than corrosion there, my block got corrosion and that was thin lines of turquoise. So in my case I'm quite sure it's copper corrosion as when I scrubbed it with a brush it also showed me pure copper underneath, which isn't a good thing on a nickel plated block. I would take it all apart and dip the metal part of your block in alcohol to be sure you kill it all, not sure what you would do with the acrylic though (maybe chlorine?).


----------



## Jyve

A little while back I got an ek Revo d5 140 pump/res combo. Curious. Can this be disassembled and used separately? Like placing the pump somewhere away from the res?

If so is there anything else needed like maybe a different pump top?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Just noticed now actually that some black stuff has popped up in my res and CPU block, however it doesn't look to be algae or mold exactly. Instead it appears to be an oxide powder that could either be silver or copper due to air buildup in the reservoir...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can nickel plating turn green though? there also appears to be a green outline on my CPU block for some reason. Hopefully I'll sort out my AM4 upgrade soon so I can do a full tear-down, may end up using EK's new coolant too...
> 
> 
> 
> Nickel Plating does NOT turn green but either corroding copper does and Algae can be green. Either way not a good thing.
Click to expand...

Was just thinking the same myself.









I am wondering if the plating at that point was already microscopicly worn. It is a used block so the previous owner could've had an issue, cleaned it up and sold it knowing there was an issue rather than dealing with it.









~Ceadder


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> A little while back I got an ek Revo d5 140 pump/res combo. Curious. Can this be disassembled and used separately? Like placing the pump somewhere away from the res?
> 
> If so is there anything else needed like maybe a different pump top?


You'll need to get a different top for the pump, this piece










Then you can just use any res and have that little port on top as a return line.

But specific to your question the answer is no, you cannot take it apart and use it separate since the reservoir is special made for the pump. You'll need to convert it using the top piece i mentioned, and use another res.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> You'll need to get a different top for the pump, this piece
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you can just use any res and have that little port on top as a return line.
> 
> But specific to your question the answer is no, you cannot take it apart and use it separate since the reservoir is special made for the pump. You'll need to convert it using the top piece i mentioned, and use another res.


Yeah. That's what I meant. Figured it required a different pump top. The res should work with the proper bottom cap though. I have an xres 100 that was without a pump and came with a bottom cap with multiple ports. Figure I can use that cap on the 140.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Yeah. That's what I meant. Figured it required a different pump top. The res should work with the proper bottom cap though. I have an xres 100 that was without a pump and came with a bottom cap with multiple ports. Figure I can use that cap on the 140.


Yeah if the bottom cap for the 100 fits on the bottom of the 140 then just fit that over. I've been using this Revo pump for the last 8 client builds, extremely quiet and reliable, moves plenty of water.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Was just thinking the same myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am wondering if the plating at that point was already microscopicly worn. It is a used block so the previous owner could've had an issue, cleaned it up and sold it knowing there was an issue rather than dealing with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I got it from new a year ago, so it's unlikely that the nickel would be coming off, most likely algae (lack of silver, excess of air) or possibly leftover residue and dye. Either way though it'll just have to stay like that until the rebuild as I simply don't have the time and resources to deal with it properly now. :/


----------



## Ceadderman

At this point I would submit an RMA if you bought it new. But would like to see pics for confirmation. EK will want them so if you can post some that would be good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Was just thinking the same myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am wondering if the plating at that point was already microscopicly worn. It is a used block so the previous owner could've had an issue, cleaned it up and sold it knowing there was an issue rather than dealing with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it from new a year ago, so it's unlikely that the nickel would be coming off, most likely algae (lack of silver, excess of air) or possibly leftover residue and dye. Either way though it'll just have to stay like that until the rebuild as I simply don't have the time and resources to deal with it properly now. :/
Click to expand...

Apologies for thinking it was a used block.









~Ceadder


----------



## loktite78

new build of mine, I used EK-HDC fittings and a new EK Evo cpu block. Love the fittings, solid paint and no imperfections!! CPU block looks excellent, but the manual could be more robust, lol. I chose Maize and Blue for the fitting colors


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loktite78*
> 
> new build of mine, I used EK-HDC fittings and a new EK Evo cpu block. Love the fittings, solid paint and no imperfections!! CPU block looks excellent, but the manual could be more robust, lol. I chose Maize and Blue for the fitting colors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Two D5's, one block...?









I take it you're waiting on a GPU block or new GPU/s?


----------



## loktite78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Two D5's, one block...?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I take it you're waiting on a GPU block or new GPU/s?


Yeah, talked about it in the Monsoon thread. The card I bought to tide me over till Vega is a custom PCB and I can't find a water block. Sapphire R9 Fury Nitro. There will be one, maybe two gpu water blocks in the near future


----------



## FXformat

Anyone else here use an XSPC 75mm diameter reservoir with their EK D5 Revo pump? I like the pump, just that the EK res are a little skinny and they dont fill out the pump's shape. EK X3 res are 60mm in diameter i believe, the XSPC Glass Photon res is 75mm, it's fatter and is a lot closer in diameter. Here's a quick of my new build i'm about to build.



Stock D5 Revo with 140mm reservoir



The build behind me is using an EK D5 Revo as well, on a 65mm x 170mm glass reservoir.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IchiRuki*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> Hey, Akira
> 
> just a quick question regarding the new EK-CryoFuel... is it fully compatible with PETG tubing? I have EK-PETG tubing, so I hope everything will be fine, just wanted to clarify
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you


Yes


----------



## mrgnex

Uhm what's happening? I'm using all copper components with distilled water and a silver kill plug.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Uhm what's happening? I'm using all copper components with distilled water and a *silver kill plug*. There is a reason why EK and other manufacturers say not to use silver with Nickel Blocks


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*


So it's either this or algue?


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> So it's either this or algue?


Easiest way to find out is take the block apart and try to clean it with a toothbrush. If you see copper it was the silver. If it scrubs off it was algae. Either way the answer is to use a quality premix coolant and ditch tge silver bullet


----------



## akira749

It's been a while since I did a build! So here it goes....Silent Watcher


----------



## loktite78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Uhm what's happening? I'm using all copper components with distilled water and a silver kill plug.


Yup, that's the nickel plating corroding from the silver. Its exposing the copper underneath, which will cause galvanic corrosion (the silver will eat the copper essentially). Using deionized water will help, but it doesn't stay DI water forever.

My wife has been running the same water with a kill coil for well over a year. She has lost some nickel plating but none of the copper.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Easiest way to find out is take the block apart and try to clean it with a toothbrush. If you see copper it was the silver. If it scrubs off it was algae. Either way the answer is to use a quality premix coolant and ditch tge silver bullet


This will work too, but biocides and corrosion inhibitors will wear out and you will need new coolant or to add to it. I don't have any experience with the time between water changes, as I only use a silver kill coil in my loop.

Just my 2 cents. Maybe someone else can chime in on how often they change fluid.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loktite78*
> 
> Yup, that's the nickel plating corroding from the silver. Its exposing the copper underneath, which will cause galvanic corrosion (the silver will eat the copper essentially). Using deionized water will help, but it doesn't stay DI water forever.
> 
> My wife has been running the same water with a kill coil for well over a year. She has lost some nickel plating but none of the copper.
> This will work too, but biocides and corrosion inhibitors will wear out and you will need new coolant or to add to it. I don't have any experience with the time between water changes, as I only use a silver kill coil in my loop.
> 
> Just my 2 cents. Maybe someone else can chime in on how often they change fluid.


I personally recommend fluid change at least once a year but every 6mo is what I follow. Since I was born after Christmas and Im an American I just remember that on my Birthday amd the Birth of my country its time


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Easiest way to find out is take the block apart and try to clean it with a toothbrush. If you see copper it was the silver. If it scrubs off it was algae. Either way the answer is to use a quality premix coolant and ditch tge silver bullet


I like distilled water most. It's cheap and rather effective and easy to get.
Opening the block will make me lose warranty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loktite78*
> 
> Yup, that's the nickel plating corroding from the silver. Its exposing the copper underneath, which will cause galvanic corrosion (the silver will eat the copper essentially). Using deionized water will help, but it doesn't stay DI water forever.
> 
> My wife has been running the same water with a kill coil for well over a year. She has lost some nickel plating but none of the copper.
> This will work too, but biocides and corrosion inhibitors will wear out and you will need new coolant or to add to it. I don't have any experience with the time between water changes, as I only use a silver kill coil in my loop.
> 
> Just my 2 cents. Maybe someone else can chime in on how often they change fluid.


Damn.. Maybe I should just take it out and hope no algue show up... Never had issues before but I only ran copper blocks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> I personally recommend fluid change at least once a year but every 6mo is what I follow. Since I was born after Christmas and Im an American I just remember that on my Birthday amd the Birth of my country its time


i change fluid way more often. At least every six months sometimes even a few weeks..


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> I like distilled water most. It's cheap and rather effective and easy to get.
> Opening the block will make me lose warranty.
> Damn.. Maybe I should just take it out and hope no algue show up... Never had issues before but I only ran copper blocks.
> i change fluid way more often. At least every six months sometimes even a few weeks..


Premixed fluids can be gotten about anywhere you can get any other watercooling supplies. I've had issues with distilled within 2 weeks of new, not worth the risk IMO.
Opening the block won't void your warranty, EK said so here not too long ago (i'll find it and edit in later)
edit: http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/13620_30#post_24781141
guess it was a while ago


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Premixed fluids can be gotten about anywhere you can get any other watercooling supplies. I've had issues with distilled within 2 weeks of new, not worth the risk IMO.
> Opening the block won't void your warranty, EK said so here not too long ago (i'll find it and edit in later)
> edit: http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/13620_30#post_24781141
> guess it was a while ago


Thank you very much. Seems like I need to switch.. Oh well.


----------



## loktite78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> I like distilled water most. It's cheap and rather effective and easy to get.
> 
> Opening the block will make me lose warranty.
> 
> Damn.. Maybe I should just take it out and hope no algue show up... Never had issues before but I only ran copper blocks.
> 
> i change fluid way more often. At least every six months sometimes even a few weeks..


If you do open the block be very careful to not stretch the o-ring or it will be a pain to get it back in or it wont fit right.

You shouldn't have an issue with the water block, unless you don't like seeing green copper, lol.


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loktite78*
> 
> If you do open the block be very careful to not stretch the o-ring or it will be a pain to get it back in or it wont fit right.
> 
> You shouldn't have an issue with the water block, unless you don't like seeing green copper, lol.


Thanks for the heads up.
I don't like seeing copper in my nickel plated block


----------



## akira749

I think I forgot to link this here : https://www.ekwb.com/news/official-list-ek-water-blocks-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-series/


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I think I forgot to link this here : https://www.ekwb.com/news/official-list-ek-water-blocks-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-series/


It says april 5 preorder for the FE block but do you have an idea on actual shipping date? Is it preorder april 5 but doesn't ship for 2 more weeks or something?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> It says april 5 preorder for the FE block but do you have an idea on actual shipping date? Is it preorder april 5 but doesn't ship for 2 more weeks or something?


It should ship one week after


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It should ship one week after


Will performance-pcs have them?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Will performance-pcs have them?


They usually have all our stock very soon after the release. You could check with them but i'm pretty confident that they will have them quickly.


----------



## Jsunn

Can I order a new plexi top for my EK Supremacy EVO? It's not listed as a replacement part online.

I accidentally cracked my old one tightening it screws . :-(

-Jason


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes you can. Go to performance-pcs.com, look under watercooling, then accessories CPU block and narrow your search with EK and you will find the replacement top.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jsunn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes you can. Go to performance-pcs.com, look under watercooling, then accessories CPU block and narrow your search with EK and you will find the replacement top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Cool,

Thanks for the info. I swear I looked and I couldn't find it.

-Jason


----------



## Biggu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I think I forgot to link this here : https://www.ekwb.com/news/official-list-ek-water-blocks-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-series/


akira749 will EK be selling those single slot adapters with out purchase of the block?


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> akira749 will EK be selling those single slot adapters with out purchase of the block?


I think they said they would be.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> akira749 will EK be selling those single slot adapters with out purchase of the block?


Yes, you'll be able to buy the single slot bracket separately.


----------



## skingun

Hello. Does EK plan to sell 60mm diameter glass reservoirs?


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*


Now that I have come to think of it.. I had an MSI 980Ti in my system before with a nickle plated Bykski block (yes, chinese block) and no issues.. Very strange..


----------



## hakka69

Here's my new build, ek gpu blocks & rads and some xspc bits.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> Hello. Does EK plan to sell 60mm diameter glass reservoirs?


You mean a standalone reservoir?


----------



## skingun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You mean a standalone reservoir?


Yes.


----------



## Cozmo85

Does the 1080ti FE backplate work with ek blocks this round?

edit: i guess it does

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q574/CptSpig/Mobile%20Uploads/20161029_221954_zpszpkrc7de.jpg


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> Yes.


I haven't hear anything regarding this unfortunately.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Just picked up a Gigabyte 1080 Ti Aorus from Newegg this morning.. Now to wait for the block to be released in early May. No exact dates yet, huh? Looks like I'll be slipping this in under my 980 Ti until a waterblock is released. That'll save me from having to drain my loop multiple times.

EDIT:

@akira749 I just went and looked at the cooling configurator and it looks like the Aorus Xtreme edition is listed, but the regular Aorus isn't listed. This conflicts what the official list of waterblocks says. That says "GIGABYTE® GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Aorus". Will the waterblock fit both of these cards or are you not making a block for the regular version? I'm guessing they both use the same PCB, but I'm not sure. Can you clarify if it will fit the card I bought? Thanks!


----------



## Jsunn

Hello,

I had a question about the new line of EK-Cryofuel liquids.

I have been using EK-Ekoolant EVO clear concentrate in my loop and just saw that these new fluids came out. What do I need to do to my loop before I put these new fluids in?

I was planning on just running some distilled water through the loop before refilling with this new stuff.

Thank you!
-Jason


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsunn*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I had a question about the new line of EK-Cryofuel liquids.
> 
> I have been using EK-Ekoolant EVO clear concentrate in my loop and just saw that these new fluids came out. What do I need to do to my loop before I put these new fluids in?
> 
> I was planning on just running some distilled water through the loop before refilling with this new stuff.
> 
> Thank you!
> -Jason


I know you are looking for a response from an EK rep (I am too!!), but I think your plan sounds perfectly fine. You shouldn't have any issues flushing with distilled and adding the Cryofuel.


----------



## Jsunn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I know you are looking for a response from an EK rep (I am too!!), but I think your plan sounds perfectly fine. You shouldn't have any issues flushing with distilled and adding the Cryofuel.


I think you're correct, I just wanted to be sure.

Thank you,
Jason


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsunn*
> 
> I think you're correct, I just wanted to be sure.
> 
> Thank you,
> Jason


Probably not entirely necessary but maybe a mixture of distilled water and a bit of vinegar.

I'm looking for some info on this new coolant as well. I've been running the ekoolant clear premix for a while now and am itching to ad some color.


----------



## Cozmo85

What time do the 1080ti blocks go on sale?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Just picked up a Gigabyte 1080 Ti Aorus from Newegg this morning.. Now to wait for the block to be released in early May. No exact dates yet, huh? Looks like I'll be slipping this in under my 980 Ti until a waterblock is released. That'll save me from having to drain my loop multiple times.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> @akira749 I just went and looked at the cooling configurator and it looks like the Aorus Xtreme edition is listed, but the regular Aorus isn't listed. This conflicts what the official list of waterblocks says. That says "GIGABYTE® GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Aorus". Will the waterblock fit both of these cards or are you not making a block for the regular version? I'm guessing they both use the same PCB, but I'm not sure. Can you clarify if it will fit the card I bought? Thanks!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It has been fixed. You can check the CoolingConfigurator again. Sorry about that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsunn*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I had a question about the new line of EK-Cryofuel liquids.
> 
> I have been using EK-Ekoolant EVO clear concentrate in my loop and just saw that these new fluids came out. What do I need to do to my loop before I put these new fluids in?
> 
> I was planning on just running some distilled water through the loop before refilling with this new stuff.
> 
> Thank you!
> -Jason


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I know you are looking for a response from an EK rep (I am too!!), but I think your plan sounds perfectly fine. You shouldn't have any issues flushing with distilled and adding the Cryofuel.


Simply clean flush your loop with some distilled water and you'll be ready.


----------



## akira749

New since yesterday!

New EK Full-Cover water blocks for EVGA FTW2 series graphics cards


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> It has been fixed. You can check the CoolingConfigurator again. Sorry about that.


Perfect thank you!


----------



## Ceadderman

Thought I would drop this here...



Pardon the potato pic if you will. Plan to get the new rotary 45° adapter and the 480 backplate here in the next month. This block will be hella sharp looking on Crosshair VI Hero.









Can confirm that it fits XFX 8gb RX480 OCEd card like a dream.









Speaking of which, when is that Monoblock to be released?









~Ceadder


----------



## rolandos582

What do you guys do to drain/flush your loop? I'm consedering buying a multi top for my EK 250 ML and put that on top when I wanna flush and just stick a flex tube in there for refilling. But I wonder what you guys do to drain/flush/refill


----------



## dseg

Does EK have any discount codes for their website?


----------



## Wally West

Is it ok to post some porn here?


----------



## madweazl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolandos582*
> 
> What do you guys do to drain/flush your loop? I'm consedering buying a multi top for my EK 250 ML and put that on top when I wanna flush and just stick a flex tube in there for refilling. But I wonder what you guys do to drain/flush/refill


Twist, turn, contort, and curse, a lot! Then I repeat the process when I fill it.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Is it ok to post some porn here?


Is that red tube or Red coolant? Looks like Opaque Red Tube... Just curious either way it looks good.

Edit for spelling.. Darn cell phone and fat thumbs


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Is that red tube or Res coolant? Looks like Opaque Red Tube


Mayhem pastel red. so red opaque coolant.


http://imgur.com/Kl0vh


----------



## skingun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I haven't hear anything regarding this unfortunately.


Pretty sure they would sell like hot cakes.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thought I would drop this here...
> 
> 
> 
> Pardon the potato pic if you will. Plan to get the new rotary 45° adapter and the 480 backplate here in the next month. This block will be hella sharp looking on Crosshair VI Hero.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can confirm that it fits XFX 8gb RX480 OCEd card like a dream.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of which, when is that Monoblock to be released?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The Monoblock should be released in mid-April


----------



## rolandos582

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> Twist, turn, contort, and curse, a lot! Then I repeat the process when I fill it.


Oh right


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing Full-Cover water blocks for NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti graphics cards


----------



## NeoConker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing Full-Cover water blocks for NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti graphics cards


EK will support the new EVGA SC2 and FTW3?

Both have custom PCB...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoConker*
> 
> EK will support the new EVGA SC2 and FTW3?
> 
> Both have custom PCB...


SC2, I don't know yet.

FTW3 block, is scheduled for late May


----------



## NeoConker

My Ryzen build is finish and my lovely Gold Supreme HF at the start apparently will not fit, EK's website says "End of Life"...

I wipe my tears... grabed a scrap of a 2mm steel sheet, the old AM3 plate plus AM4 dimensions and made my own mounting plate. Long life to Supreme HF!

      

PS: Before the build I took the HF to electroplating to add 2grs of gold. The technician said the manufacturer did a really a good job, there is a layer of chrome between copper block and gold finish besides a layer of glossy varnish on top and thats why the whole process took three days instead of one.


----------



## Barefooter

I recently finished painting a big batch of EK Vardar fans.





More pictures on this post of my build log if you want to check out more.


----------



## Papa Emeritus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I recently finished painting a big batch of EK Vardar fans.


Wow the amount of Vardars


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoConker*
> 
> My Ryzen build is finish and my lovely Gold Supreme HF at the start apparently will not fit, EK's website says "End of Life"...
> 
> I wipe my tears... grabed a scrap of a 2mm steel sheet, the old AM3 plate plus AM4 dimensions and made my own mounting plate. Long life to Supreme HF!
> 
> 
> 
> PS: Before the build I took the HF to electroplating to add 2grs of gold. The technician said the manufacturer did a really a good job, there is a layer of chrome between copper block and gold finish besides a layer of glossy varnish on top and thats why the whole process took three days instead of one.


i can only imagine how long that must've taken. Could you also have used acrylic instead of metal to make it easier to cut/sand? Then just paint it, great job btw, those steel plates are no joke.


----------



## fast_fate

Waiting on friends to arrive. Sound familiar


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thought I would drop this here...
> 
> 
> 
> Pardon the potato pic if you will. Plan to get the new rotary 45° adapter and the 480 backplate here in the next month. This block will be hella sharp looking on Crosshair VI Hero.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can confirm that it fits XFX 8gb RX480 OCEd card like a dream.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of which, when is that Monoblock to be released?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Monoblock should be released in mid-April
Click to expand...

No chips blocks I imagine? So monoblock is the only way to go? I'd rather have board specific chips blocks since I have an EVO block already but I can live with a monoblock. Copper available? All my other blocks are Copper.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No chips blocks I imagine? So monoblock is the only way to go? I'd rather have board specific chips blocks since I have an EVO block already but I can live with a monoblock. Copper available? All my other blocks are Copper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No, only a Monoblock. And it will be nickel, sorry. Copper doesn't sell has much as Nickel.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No, only a Monoblock. And it will be nickel, sorry. Copper doesn't sell has much as Nickel.


Is that why you guys seem to be releasing less copper stuff? It's a huge disappointment to me personally just because copper looks so nice and there isn't any chance of it corroding in the loop like we've seen the nickel plated stuff do on occasion. I bought the Gigabyte Aorus so it looks like I'll be picking up the Plexi version just so I can peek in there and make sure the nickel plating isn't coming off. I'm sure I'll be fine, it's just something that worries me.

Speaking of the Aorus.. all that's listed for dates for the blocks are "Early May". Is there a reason we don't have a set date for release on these? Do you guys plan on announcing set dates sometime soon? I can't wait to put this thing under water. Not a fan of air... except for breathing!

Thanks!


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Is that why you guys seem to be releasing less copper stuff? It's a huge disappointment to me personally just because copper looks so nice and there isn't any chance of it corroding in the loop like we've seen the nickel plated stuff do on occasion. I bought the Gigabyte Aorus so it looks like I'll be picking up the Plexi version just so I can peek in there and make sure the nickel plating isn't coming off. I'm sure I'll be fine, it's just something that worries me.
> 
> Speaking of the Aorus.. all that's listed for dates for the blocks are "Early May". Is there a reason we don't have a set date for release on these? Do you guys plan on announcing set dates sometime soon? I can't wait to put this thing under water. Not a fan of air... except for breathing!
> 
> Thanks!


I agree on the copper blocks.
Be careful with that acrylic, nickel-plate and acrylic is a bad combo for me...
I've seen the flaking and the spider cracks personally.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> I agree on the copper blocks.
> Be careful with that acrylic, nickel-plate and acrylic is a bad combo for me...
> I've seen the flaking and the spider cracks personally.


Yeah maybe I'll stick with the acetal since it would look better with my build. I actually just realized I have the Monoblock for the Gigabyte Z170 Gaming 7 and looked it up and it looks like that is nickel. Thought it was copper. So I guess I'll be adding another nickel block to my build.


----------



## dseg

Does anyone know if there are any EK coupon codes?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> I agree on the copper blocks.
> Be careful with that acrylic, nickel-plate and acrylic is a bad combo for me...
> I've seen the flaking and the spider cracks personally.


I have see. Plexi have small spider cracks. But acrylic bad for nickel and flaking where did you get that from


----------



## lever2stacks

Speaking of monoblocks here's my M8G monoblock that I polished and blacked out the outer flow path.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Does anyone know if there are any EK coupon codes?


They do not. Ppcs had free shipping over 100 for ek parts. Than if you use the OCN55 it's as close to a discount as you will get


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I have see. Plexi have small spider cracks. But acrylic bad for nickel and flaking where did you get that from


They don't go together.
Plexi is known to develop spider cracks.
Nickel-plating has a history of flaking.

Acrylic is not bad for nickel or vise versa. Just two things I wouldn't want at all.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> They do not. Ppcs had free shipping over 100 for ek parts. Than if you use the OCN55 it's as close to a discount as you will get


Thanks - I planned on ordering directly from EK though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No chips blocks I imagine? So monoblock is the only way to go? I'd rather have board specific chips blocks since I have an EVO block already but I can live with a monoblock. Copper available? All my other blocks are Copper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, only a Monoblock. And it will be nickel, sorry. Copper doesn't sell has much as Nickel.
Click to expand...

Maybe if I ask Edvard very nicely, he can without one from the plating cycle for me? It's going in my sponsored build, so I will pay for it like everyone else will but he can use my rig as a beta test of sorts to see if there is an interest in future sales. I would rep the hades out of an acrylic topped block.









~Ceadder


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Maybe if I ask Edvard very nicely, he can without one from the plating cycle for me? It's going in my sponsored build, so I will pay for it like everyone else will but he can use my rig as a beta test of sorts to see if there is an interest in future sales. I would rep the hades out of an acrylic topped block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


this is a large part of why I'm going with Watercool for my 1080Ti this time around. They agreed to put together a block with a copper base and black/plexi top even though they don't list that combo for sale. IMO copper looks better and is one less thing to fail. Sad that ek isn't offering it as an option on a lot of their products lately. I'd be half tempted to buy the nickel monoblock and strip it


----------



## Kutalion

I prefer acetal to plexi anyway. Doesnt matter what is underneath then







copper tarnish, nickel flaking, all thr same.


----------



## Ceadderman

All my blocks are EK, so with EK I will stay for my sponsored build. Just hoping I can get Edvard to hold one from the plating cycle, so that I don't have to bust such an expensive warranty. Besides, removing plating is sort of a pita that I would probably ignore it even with an acrylic top.









~Ceadder


----------



## bloodhawk

Finally checking in, Been a owner of the EK Predator 280 for over 5 months. Had a leak and EK replaced it in under a week i think , and advanced replacement if i might add. Added my EVGA 1080Ti FE with the TItan XP block to it recently.

Currently deciding on QDC's for full custom loop, with the option to connect a water chiller externally.


----------



## jestereightfour

Just installed a bigger res with the multi port cap and replaced my barbed fittings with compression. Also, changed from Mayhems emerald green to red. The bug has bitten...

ek 10/13 compression fittings x4

alphacool 10/13 compression 90 x2

alphacool g14 plug x2

ek g14 extender

primochill 3/8 x 1/2" advanced lrt tubing

ek res x3 140mm innner tube shortened

ek res x3 250 reservoir

ek multiport top

ek coolstream pe 360mm triple rad

thermaltake riing 120mm fans - white

ek vertical style uni bracket

xspc raystorm cpu block

Here's a link to my YouTube channel if you're bored:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCH1DfDjxC5RTQRzjp5HGlhQ


----------



## Domiro

I have several EK-FC R9 290X blocks. All of them nickel. Yet, I need a copper block. Can't find any place that sells the copper block but I CAN spare one of the nickel ones I have.

Questions is - Can I, and if so how, remove the nickel plating?

Also; please don't shoot me.


----------



## dseg

Why do you need to remove the nickel?


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> I have several EK-FC R9 290X blocks. All of them nickel. Yet, I need a copper block. Can't find any place that sells the copper block but I CAN spare one of the nickel ones I have.
> 
> Questions is - Can I, and if so how, remove the nickel plating?
> 
> Also; please don't shoot me.


Or you can look at Aquacomputer Kryocraphics. They come in copper


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Why do you need to remove the nickel?


Copper CPU block and copper tubing.

Already looked into replacing the copper CPU base for a nickel version. I'd be stuck with the copper tubing and what chrome plated tubing I found here is of such poor quality that it cracks while bending. I could go with stainless steel for tubing and all nickel blocks. Though it's starting to add up in price.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Copper CPU block and copper tubing.
> 
> Already looked into replacing the copper CPU base for a nickel version. I'd be stuck with the copper tubing and what chrome plated tubing I found here is of such poor quality that it cracks while bending. I could go with stainless steel for tubing and all nickel blocks. Though it's starting to add up in price.


You cant bend ANY chrome plated tubing or otherwise. Chrome plating should be done AFTER a part is formed into its final shape.


----------



## Domiro

Fairly certain I've read B Neg having used/found plated copper that did stand up to bending. Saw the stuff in a local DIY store, figured I'd give it a try.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> I have several EK-FC R9 290X blocks. All of them nickel. Yet, I need a copper block. Can't find any place that sells the copper block but I CAN spare one of the nickel ones I have.
> 
> Questions is - Can I, and if so how, remove the nickel plating?
> 
> Also; please don't shoot me.
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can look at Aquacomputer Kryocraphics. They come in copper
Click to expand...

Pretty sure if he wanted Heat killer block he wouldn't be asking bout deplating an EK block.









As far as the how? There are a few tutorials about it on YouTube. I would start there. Also search OCN for "removing Nickel plating". It's actually pretty easy when you see how it's done.









~Ceadder


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty sure if he wanted Heat killer block he wouldn't be asking bout deplating an EK block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as the how? There are a few tutorials about it on YouTube. I would start there. Also search OCN for "removing Nickel plating". It's actually pretty easy when you see how it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Can't resist... AquaComputer and Watercool are two very different companies ~_^ Unless you were being silly/playful - hard to tell as voice nuances don't make it into text all that well ^_^


----------



## Ceadderman

Silly/playful with a purpose.









I'm actually a laid back personality, on unless I have something to offer technically or am asking a technical question, I find that I can nudge my point to across without getting my panties in a twist.









~Ceadder


----------



## Cozmo85

After 3 weeks doing 1080 SC -> 1080ICX -> 1080TI FE I can finally put my computer back together


----------



## huckincharlie

EK-Supremacy EVO - Full Nickel
EK-FC Titan X Pascal - Nickel
EK-FC Titan X Pascal Backplate - Nickel

http://www.overclock.net/t/1616157/sponsored-scratch-build-copper-one/50#post_25999968


----------



## Paul17041993

Anyone know enough about the resistance of the Supremacy EVO (with the AMD/2011 injector) and 290X full-cover blocks, as to how much the flow will increase when putting them in parallel instead of series?

Adding to that, with the dual-D5 XTOP does the actual flow surpass the 1500L/h limit of the D5's with low resistance? (parallel blocks, 13mm ID tubing, 80mm thick U rad)

I'm looking at ways to increase the flow in my loop to prevent air stalling in the radiator instead if the reservoir, I'll likely grab a taller res tube as well to help normalise the pressure...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@huckincharlie

That build is Wicked!

TCO


----------



## huckincharlie

thx


----------



## Daggi

Hi
Anyone know if EK is planning to make a PCIe to M2 adapter with a waterblock?


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hi
> Anyone know if EK is planning to make a PCIe to M2 adapter with a waterblock?


You actually have a use for one? with a compatible motherboard?

I'd see a U.2 to M.2 board with attachable block as a better method as it'd be much more compatible without sacrificing GPU lanes. There's only one AM4 board that I've seen that actually allows the use of a PCIe x4 SSD instead of an M.2 for example, not counting the aux PCIe 2.0 lanes.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> You actually have a use for one? with a compatible motherboard?
> 
> I'd see a U.2 to M.2 board with attachable block as a better method as it'd be much more compatible without sacrificing GPU lanes. There's only one AM4 board that I've seen that actually allows the use of a PCIe x4 SSD instead of an M.2 for example, not counting the aux PCIe 2.0 lanes.


Not that I really need it but what I asked for was if EK is planning to make a PCIe 3.0 x4 adapter for M.2 drives, like the AquaComputer kryo M.2. Since the M.2 drives get pretty hot I want to watercool it.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hi
> Anyone know if EK is planning to make a PCIe to M2 adapter with a waterblock?


I haven't heard anything regarding this


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Not that I really need it but what I asked for was if EK is planning to make a PCIe 3.0 x4 adapter for M.2 drives, like the AquaComputer kryo M.2. Since the M.2 drives get pretty hot I want to watercool it.


They do indeed get very hot and start to throttle, from my understanding m.2 drives on water are even more unbelievable, they don't throttle at all and work even better. I'm sure the same can be done with a good heatsink though.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I haven't heard anything regarding this


It would be awesome if You guys made one









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> They do indeed get very hot and start to throttle, from my understanding m.2 drives on water are even more unbelievable, they don't throttle at all and work even better. I'm sure the same can be done with a good heatsink though.


Yes a heatsink is OK, but when everything else is watercooled it looks even better with a watercooled M.2 disk


----------



## Sky-way

I'm using the Aquacomputer Kryo M.2 adapter (with heatsink, no waterblock) with a Samsung 960 EVO nvme ssd. At the time that I bought it my rig was all air cooled, but since then I have switched to a custom loop. I wanted to get the waterblock eventually, but the temps are perfectly fine with just the heatsink. My 960 evo idles 30-31C and under a full load (crystaldiskmark 9 pass at 1gb) it peaks at 37C with a room temp around 22-23C.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sky-way*
> 
> I'm using the Aquacomputer Kryo M.2 adapter (with heatsink, no waterblock) with a Samsung 960 EVO nvme ssd. At the time that I bought it my rig was all air cooled, but since then I have switched to a custom loop. I wanted to get the waterblock eventually, but the temps are perfectly fine with just the heatsink. My 960 evo idles 30-31C and under a full load (crystaldiskmark 9 pass at 1gb) it peaks at 37C with a room temp around 22-23C.


That is pretty nice temps. I'll have to check out that heatsink


----------



## Sky-way

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> That is pretty nice temps. I'll have to check out that heatsink


I bought the adapter first, then I picked up the heatsink for it. I think it was like $14 on newegg, pretty cheap compared to the $66 waterblock. Without the heatsink the 960 would get up in the 50's, which was a little warm for my taste.


----------



## wywywywy

Anyone knows where them eggs at????


----------



## RamGuy

I'm planning my very first custom loop for my upgrade this summer. I'm going to replace my entire system this summer with the release of Skylake-X, all I will take with me from my current system is my GTX 1080 Ti FE, Samsung 960 Pro 1TB m.2 SSD and my Seasonic Platinum 760W PSU.

My main goal with water-cooling is cooling efficiency. By efficiency I'm not aiming for the absolute best cooling performance, I'm aiming for efficiency. I want the best combination of noise and cooling performance. The most irritating thing with my systems over the years is the noise. According to the Decibel Meter-app on my iPad Pro the noise from where I normally sit at my desk is about 42 dB idle, and 48-50 dB under load. This is way too loud.. I want to bring it down towards 20-25 dB idle (pretty much inaudible from my experience) and max 35 dB under load (barley notable). It's clearly the graphics card making the most amount of noise.

I'm thinking about going with Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass. What kind of blocks, radiators, fans etc should I be looking at in order to be able to sufficiently cool a Skylake-X 6-core CPU overclocked to ~4,5GHz and a GTX 1080 Ti FE while still being able to keep the fan and pump RPM at a minimum? I know it's hard to comment on a upcoming, unreleased CPU but lets use the equivalent Broadwell-E 6-core CPU as baseline.

As one who have never gone with a custom loop before I don't really have much experience with cooling efficiency with custom loops. I've used my share of AiO's/closed loops but I suppose those slim tubes, that thick fluid and those thin radiators don't compare to the options you have with a custom loop, not at all.


----------



## bluej511

I am hoping ekwb makes more waterblocks for the rx 580 and AIBs and then for vega as well. Only having one cooler for reference design kinda sucks, its why i had to go alphacool for my r9 390.


----------



## Ceadderman

Unlikely for AIBs. That's why you should go reference whenever a loop is present. They should have a block that will fit the RX 580 Reference.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamGuy*
> 
> I'm planning my very first custom loop for my upgrade this summer. I'm going to replace my entire system this summer with the release of Skylake-X, all I will take with me from my current system is my GTX 1080 Ti FE, Samsung 960 Pro 1TB m.2 SSD and my Seasonic Platinum 760W PSU.
> 
> My main goal with water-cooling is cooling efficiency. By efficiency I'm not aiming for the absolute best cooling performance, I'm aiming for efficiency. I want the best combination of noise and cooling performance. The most irritating thing with my systems over the years is the noise. According to the Decibel Meter-app on my iPad Pro the noise from where I normally sit at my desk is about 42 dB idle, and 48-50 dB under load. This is way too loud.. I want to bring it down towards 20-25 dB idle (pretty much inaudible from my experience) and max 35 dB under load (barley notable). It's clearly the graphics card making the most amount of noise.
> 
> I'm thinking about going with Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass. What kind of blocks, radiators, fans etc should I be looking at in order to be able to sufficiently cool a Skylake-X 6-core CPU overclocked to ~4,5GHz and a GTX 1080 Ti FE while still being able to keep the fan and pump RPM at a minimum? I know it's hard to comment on a upcoming, unreleased CPU but lets use the equivalent Broadwell-E 6-core CPU as baseline.
> 
> As one who have never gone with a custom loop before I don't really have much experience with cooling efficiency with custom loops. I've used my share of AiO's/closed loops but I suppose those slim tubes, that thick fluid and those thin radiators don't compare to the options you have with a custom loop, not at all.


Considering the Evolv cases are fairly restrictive when it comes to the air intakes in the front and top, I'm not sure you could do what you want. Personally I would look at a bit bigger case so that you can do a dual 360mm or even better a dual 420mm setup, as that would allow you to have really good cooling while still being able to run your fans well bellow 1000rpm. Go for thinner radiators or ones with a low fin density as that will work better at a lower RPM, also a d5 pump would probably be the best for a silent operation.

Personally I would look at parts from a whole bunch of different companies, but EK has really good blocks and their pump/res combos are both nice to look at and good to work with. Depending on if you want hard lines (more difficult to work with, and a bad choice if you swap components all the time), or soft tubing you could go with EK on both. In fact I would choose EK ZMT tubing for a no hassle approach any day.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

For Easter I would like the waterblock to be released for my Aorus 1080 Ti.... Please? This is what I'm dealing with until I can get a block on this thing. I've got 1020mm of radiators cooling my delidded 6700k. Lulz. Had to unscrew my reservoir mount to fit this beast in the case.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Unlikely for AIBs. That's why you should go reference whenever a loop is present. They should have a block that will fit the RX 580 Reference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I would but its a total shame as the aib boards are power with VRMs and power connections (8pin vs 2x8pin).

The rx 580 looks REALLY good from a leak i saw of someone hitting 1500mhz on water (he had issues with wattman so hopefully a driver issue fixes it) but wattman and both ab cause some serious issues for me on my pc now. Can't oc on ab without an instant death crash, and changing voltage in wattman does the same, instant death crash.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Unlikely for AIBs. That's why you should go reference whenever a loop is present. They should have a block that will fit the RX 580 Reference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would but its a total shame as the aib boards are power with VRMs and power connections (8pin vs 2x8pin).
> 
> The rx 580 looks REALLY good from a leak i saw of someone hitting 1500mhz on water (he had issues with wattman so hopefully a driver issue fixes it) but wattman and both ab cause some serious issues for me on my pc now. Can't oc on ab without an instant death crash, and changing voltage in wattman does the same, instant death crash.
Click to expand...

People're having issues with watt man and AB on everything. The 4** series thread is awash with issue complaints. Personally I would suggest sticking to one or the other and not both. There is likely an issue in the coding and they are both butting heads.









Thankfully, I am not having those issues. But only cause I don't have my RX 480 up and running yet. Although I have blocked it and it is ready to go when I start running my components in the backup case til my modded case is finished.









~Ceadder


----------



## xarot

Hi guys,

What do you think this is? Can it be a tiny leak? The rubber ring seems to be very well in place and in between the plexi and the copper base? Notice that it seems something is going from the inside to the outside, towards the screw. I am just thinking in case it was a leak I should see stains in the plexi because the plexi is facing downwards in my case.

I've never opened that block, EK's leak seal sticker is still in place.


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> What do you think this is? Can it be a tiny leak? The rubber ring seems to be very well in place and in between the plexi and the copper base? Notice that it seems something is going from the inside to the outside, towards the screw. I am just thinking in case it was a leak I should see stains in the plexi because the plexi is facing downwards in my case.
> 
> I've never opened that block, EK's leak seal sticker is still in place.


I have this on my CPU block. Someone from EK confirmed it's just the left over residue from the o-ring. Nothing to worry about.

On a different matter, can you guys tell me if this fitting is ok, or is the bend too much for the fittings. I'm worried the fitting would break through the tubing. I realise the liquid could distort the image but just wanna make sure.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> I have this on my CPU block. Someone from EK confirmed it's just the left over residue from the o-ring. Nothing to worry about.
> 
> On a different matter, can you guys tell me if this fitting is ok, or is the bend too much for the fittings. I'm worried the fitting would break through the tubing. I realise the liquid could distort the image but just wanna make sure.


Personally I wouldn't want to have that sharp of a bend, considering you are pushing the wall of the tubing towards a decently sharp brass surface. It's going to cut through it at one point (I can't say how long though, but at one point in time it is going to happen) if you don't end up just pulling it off the barbs.


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Personally I wouldn't want to have that sharp of a bend, considering you are pushing the wall of the tubing towards a decently sharp brass surface. It's going to cut through it at one point (I can't say how long though, but at one point in time it is going to happen) if you don't end up just pulling it off the barbs.


Thanks for the input. Time to grab a 45 degree fitting I think!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> Thanks for the input. Time to grab a 45 degree fitting I think!


I may be wrong of-course, but it's better to be safe about these things than having a leak all over what I assume is your PSU.


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I may be wrong of-course, but it's better to be safe about these things than having a leak all over what I assume is your PSU.


I agree. I'll order a few angled fittings and tidy up the tubing while I'm doing it. Thanks.


----------



## neSSa




----------



## Ceadderman

What camera do you use neSSa. Those are some right smexy pics.









Great job polishing those acrylic tops.









~Ceadder


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> I have this on my CPU block. Someone from EK confirmed it's just the left over residue from the o-ring. Nothing to worry about.


Thanks! I still dropped a ticket to EK support to confirm.


----------



## DarthBaggins

really need to take the time and block my 1080 SC, just hard to make the time lol


----------



## skingun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Thanks! I still dropped a ticket to EK support to confirm.


Please feedback with the response you receive.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What camera do you use neSSa. Those are some right smexy pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great job polishing those acrylic tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


i concur on both posts ....


----------



## neSSa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What camera do you use neSSa. Those are some right smexy pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great job polishing those acrylic tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thank you, this is Canon EOS 7D and 50mm 1.8 STM lens


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> What do you think this is? Can it be a tiny leak? The rubber ring seems to be very well in place and in between the plexi and the copper base? Notice that it seems something is going from the inside to the outside, towards the screw. I am just thinking in case it was a leak I should see stains in the plexi because the plexi is facing downwards in my case.
> 
> I've never opened that block, EK's leak seal sticker is still in place.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> I have this on my CPU block. Someone from EK confirmed it's just the left over residue from the o-ring. Nothing to worry about.


This ^^







Nothing to worry about @xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> On a different matter, can you guys tell me if this fitting is ok, or is the bend too much for the fittings. I'm worried the fitting would break through the tubing. I realise the liquid could distort the image but just wanna make sure.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would also suggest what you already decided to do and add a 45 degrees angled adapter there. This kind of bend might not leak in the first place but over the course of time it could happen.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> This ^^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing to worry about @xarot


Thanks! Good to hear everything is OK with the block.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

@akira749

So the ASUS Strix 1080 Ti block is set to release "mid April", but there is no set date which is surprising since we have passed "mid April". Do you guys just release it randomly? I'm personally waiting on the Aorus 1080 Ti block which is set to release "early May". I would think that since these dates are so close that the page with the upcoming 1080 Ti blocks would be updated to an actual release date.

Are you guys running into issues with these blocks and that is why there is no set release date? I'm just wondering because I'm waiting to get this card under water and I'm not sure if I should I be expecting delays.

Also, are you guys releasing the backplates for the 1080 Ti's at the same time the waterblock is released?

Thanks!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> So the ASUS Strix 1080 Ti block is set to release "mid April", but there is no set date which is surprising since we have passed "mid April". Do you guys just release it randomly? I'm personally waiting on the Aorus 1080 Ti block which is set to release "early May". I would think that since these dates are so close that the page with the upcoming 1080 Ti blocks would be updated to an actual release date.
> 
> Are you guys running into issues with these blocks and that is why there is no set release date? I'm just wondering because I'm waiting to get this card under water and I'm not sure if I should I be expecting delays.
> 
> Also, are you guys releasing the backplates for the 1080 Ti's at the same time the waterblock is released?
> 
> Thanks!


No issues just a big load of work. The ETA's are always estimates and not precise dates because even the simpliest change can shift the date by a few days.

Backplates are usually available at the same time as the blocks.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No issues just a big load of work. The ETA's are always estimates and not precise dates because even the simpliest change can shift the date by a few days.
> 
> Backplates are usually available at the same time as the blocks.


Are you saying (E)ta's are Estimated!?

Where do you guy's get off estimating your ETA's!?
?

Sorry. Couldn't help myself.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No issues just a big load of work. The ETA's are always estimates and not precise dates because even the simpliest change can shift the date by a few days.
> 
> Backplates are usually available at the same time as the blocks.


Thanks for the response! I'll just sit here patiently waiting for the Aorus block checking everyday starting May 1st.






















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Are you saying (E)ta's are Estimated!?
> 
> Where do you guy's get off estimating your ETA's!?
> ?
> 
> Sorry. Couldn't help myself.


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No issues just a big load of work. The ETA's are always estimates and not precise dates because even the simpliest change can shift the date by a few days.
> 
> Backplates are usually available at the same time as the blocks.


Ready and waiting to order a pair


----------



## KickAssCop

Where dat CLC for GPUs? It is already Q2


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Are you saying (E)ta's are Estimated!?
> 
> Where do you guy's get off estimating your ETA's!?
> ?
> 
> Sorry. Couldn't help myself.


I know









I realized what I wrote after hitting submit loll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> Where dat CLC for GPUs? It is already Q2


It's been delayed to Q3 unfortunately.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> Ready and waiting to order a pair


Have fun


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing Full-Cover water blocks for the ASUS® ROG Strix GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Have fun


Hellough stranger!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing Full-Cover water blocks for the ASUS® ROG Strix GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti


Nice to hear there is a set release date on these now. That block looks so sexy covering the entire PCB







Now let's make those Aorus blocks release early May because I need one right meow.


----------



## Silent Scone

Just put in my order







.


----------



## stanneveld

What i neeed is a EK (electronic) flowmeter.
Oh and this thing but thats never gonna happen








https://www.ekwb.com/news/a-sneak-peak-into-ek-ascendacy/


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanneveld*
> 
> What i neeed is a EK (electronic) flowmeter.
> Oh and this thing but thats never gonna happen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/news/a-sneak-peak-into-ek-ascendacy/


Yeah I would much rather have that one than the ones from Aquacomputer, let's hope EK brushes the dust off the project at one point and decides to release it







BTW... why was it again that the project was scrapped?


----------



## xarot

Hey about that new plastic cover, can I use an EK-FC Terminal Triple Parallel just like on any other block and put the new cover on top of it?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Hey about that new plastic cover, can I use an EK-FC Terminal Triple Parallel just like on any other block and put the new cover on top of it?


Yes, it should still be possible since the Terminal is the same height and width.


----------



## Leonko

does anyone know why EKWB canceled monoblock for Crosshair VI hero ? description about coming soon was there since release of motherboard, and now it is "Sorry, we have no plans to make any waterblocks for this position. Thank you."


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> does anyone know why EKWB canceled monoblock for Crosshair VI hero ? description about coming soon was there since release of motherboard, and now it is "Sorry, we have no plans to make any waterblocks for this position. Thank you."


I just checked and it still marked "Coming Soon"


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I just checked and it still marked "Coming Soon"


yeah, it was database error, they were updating cooling configurator and its back as it should be


----------



## Mega Man

on news on eta for both the C6hero and the titanium


----------



## Ceadderman

Was informed in this thread, 3rd week of April for Monoblock.









Dunno bout Ti block.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

for which ?
i assume the crosshair


----------



## Ceadderman

You are correct.









~Ceadder


----------



## RavageTheEarth

@akira749

So I'm trying to order everything I need in preparation of the Aorus water block release. Is there anyway you can ask the team what size thermal pads the block will require? I'm going to order Fujipoly pads for the block so if you could get me that info I would REALLY appreciate it. Thanks!


----------



## Ceadderman

I believe that 1mm is what comes with EK fc blocks. I could be wrong but I just blocked my 480 and iirc, that was the the thickness that came with my block.









I used Hydronaut for the GPU however. Just used the strips for the RAM.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

1080 block had .5mm for the memory and chokes and then 1mm for the vrms


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I believe that 1mm is what comes with EK fc blocks. I could be wrong but I just blocked my 480 and iirc, that was the the thickness that came with my block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used Hydronaut for the GPU however. Just used the strips for the RAM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> 1080 block had .5mm for the memory and chokes and then 1mm for the vrms


Thanks! I'll just order some extreme 11W/mK version 1.0mm and 0.5mm. Seems like no one has both the 0.5mm and 1.0mm Ultra Extreme 17W/mK pads. Fujipoly pads are like clay anyways if I end up needing 1.5 I can just stack them.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Thanks! I'll just order some extreme 11W/mK version 1.0mm and 0.5mm. Seems like no one has both the 0.5mm and 1.0mm Ultra Extreme 17W/mK pads. Fujipoly pads are like clay anyways if I end up needing 1.5 I can just stack them.


I got mine from Primochill via Amazon. I couldn't find them on the Primochill site, but their Amazon store (Tyler Direct) carries both .5 and 1 in 17W/mK


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I got mine from Primochill via Amazon. I couldn't find them on the Primochill site, but their Amazon store (Tyler Direct) carries both .5 and 1 in 17W/mK


Ahh damn I ordered the 11W/mK ones from FrozenCPU. Hopefully they don't close shop before shipping them


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Ahh damn I ordered the 11W/mK ones from FrozenCPU. Hopefully they don't close shop before shipping them


Are they even back open? LOL J/k


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> on news on eta for both the C6hero and the titanium


Titanium?? Who's making this board?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> So I'm trying to order everything I need in preparation of the Aorus water block release. Is there anyway you can ask the team what size thermal pads the block will require? I'm going to order Fujipoly pads for the block so if you could get me that info I would REALLY appreciate it. Thanks!


I'm not sure i'll be able to get that info but i'll try.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I'm not sure i'll be able to get that info but i'll try.


Thanks a lot!


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing the first AM4 monoblock for ASUS® ROG Crosshair VI Hero!


----------



## Ceadderman

Well the price is right.









But lack of Acetal, or a Copper variant is a touch disappointing. Looks like I will have to break the warranty and strip the Nickel plating.









~Ceadder


----------



## WhiteWulfe

I honestly can't understand why they would go from a wide variety of options with acetal in z170 and then with newer stuff provide acrylic only. I second the frustration bare copper isn't an option, but it really is saddening to see a company known for providing variety to say "nah, we're only going to offer it one way despite the fact a lot of people like acetal/POM options and prefer it due to a wide variety of reasons"


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well the price is right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But lack of Acetal, or a Copper variant is a touch disappointing. Looks like I will have to break the warranty and strip the Nickel plating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah it's quite sad that EK left copper behind. I personally think copper looks a lot better than the nickel plated stuff, not to mention no worries of it breaking down in the loop.


----------



## Ceadderman

Only 3 parts of that block is Nickel plated (CPU and Mosfet contact points), so I really don't understand why Copper was left out at all. Basically it's a Larger Thermospere design. Thermosphere Copper design is a steel plate with a copper base. So I just cannot understand why Copper was ditched. It's cheaper to manufacture the blocks and leave them out of the plating cycle than it is to continue on. So IMHO there simply is no good reason for skipping the Copper unit entirely. I understand Acetal since the material leaves hairs floating in the mill that requires extra maintenance. But Copper? Cmon Akira, please address these concerns with EKCorp. I own the Acrylic/Copper Thermosphere(x2) and they look smashing. CVIHero would look scrumptious imho.









I will strip the Nickel myself, but really shouldn't have had to.









~Ceadder


----------



## RamGuy

I love monoblocks and I love EK for providing monoblocks for most relevant high-end motherboards. But the theme/style of this monoblock doesn't fit with the colour scheme and design of the motherboard.


----------



## PachAz

I am not satisfied with EK nickle plated fittings, 9 out of 10 fittings had the nickle plating flaked off on some areas, opposed to the no-name brands I used which still had their nickle plating intact. Oddly, only the compression fittings had this issue not the 90 and 45 degree adapters from EK. Also the screw plugs on the pump housing and waterblock had flaking issues with the plating. I only use de-ionized/battery water and nothing else and have never had any issue with other brands. Once again, we can see that EK have not entierly solved their nickle plating issues. I even went for a bare copper block for my GPU instead of a nickle plated one out of fear of flaking/corrision/what ever you want to call it.


----------



## emsj86

Once again ? Fittings flaking to blocks flaking are a little different.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> on news on eta for both the C6hero and the titanium
> 
> 
> 
> Titanium?? Who's making this board?
Click to expand...

MSI X370 XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM AM4


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Only 3 parts of that block is Nickel plated (CPU and Mosfet contact points), so I really don't understand why Copper was left out at all. Basically it's a Larger Thermospere design. Thermosphere Copper design is a steel plate with a copper base. So I just cannot understand why Copper was ditched. It's cheaper to manufacture the blocks and leave them out of the plating cycle than it is to continue on. So IMHO there simply is no good reason for skipping the Copper unit entirely. I understand Acetal since the material leaves hairs floating in the mill that requires extra maintenance. But Copper? Cmon Akira, please address these concerns with EKCorp. I own the Acrylic/Copper Thermosphere(x2) and they look smashing. CVIHero would look scrumptious imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will strip the Nickel myself, but really shouldn't have had to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Amen to that. Completely agree 100%. It sucks that going with EK these days means no copper at all. I had a nice copper +plexi EK block for my 980 Ti, but since I upgraded to the Aorus 1080 Ti my only options are nickel plated +acetal and nickel plated + plexi, but at this point I just want the block to be released. I've got 1020mm of rad space cooling my CPU at the moment







I'm going to grab the Acetal because my Monoblock for my Gigabyte Gaming 1 G7 is also acetal (and nickel plated...).

What methods do you use to remove the nickel coating? I could care less about voiding the warranty. As long as you are careful with the O-Rings it's easy peasy to take a block apart and get it back together.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Only way for copper is reference PCB cards, which is why I went with a 1080 SC. But I ended up getting a nickel block anyway since I've had no issues with flaking on my gpu's in the past. Plus flaking on fittings externally is very different than on a block.


----------



## Ceadderman

My RX 480 Block is Copper/Acetal. Would a liked to have the Acrylic top but I got it on sale as open box, nothing at all wrong with in any way shape form or function. Seems someone local got it from PPCS for their 480 and realized







that they couldn't mount it to their GPU. Saved $10. May see if I can get an Acrylic top, but the Acrylic top doesn't cover the way the Acetal top does.









If anyone requires information about removing nickel plating from anything, YouTube is your friend. I've viewed a few tutorials, but haven't the foggiest as to what all is needed besides a car battery and alligator clips to ground the item(s) to be deplated. It's been awhile since I viewed the few tutorials but YouTube is a good source of this information.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

I got my Block w/ backplate off of the Marketplace for $100 so I'm not complaining lol, so far my 1080 SC stays at 45c at 2100/4653 on full [email protected] load. But I am planning on swapping cases again too.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> MSI X370 XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM AM4


I know that we're suppose to release a monoblock for this one. I'll try to know a possible ETA.


----------



## HaykOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I know that we're suppose to release a monoblock for this one. I'll try to know a possible ETA.


How do you think a couple SE 240s would do at cooling 450-500 watts? Using Vardar f3-120s at 1500rpm. Id have used configurator but SE240s arent listed and didnt see a cooling potential listed anywhere.

Although may need to add some watts to that now that I know theres a titanium monoblock in the works. Im guessing this will also be RGB/Plexi?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> MSI X370 XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM AM4


No real ETA but it could be somewhere around mid-May.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> So I'm trying to order everything I need in preparation of the Aorus water block release. Is there anyway you can ask the team what size thermal pads the block will require? I'm going to order Fujipoly pads for the block so if you could get me that info I would REALLY appreciate it. Thanks!


Like I thought, I wasn't able to get the information on the thermal pads thickness. Sorry.


----------



## Ceadderman

As someone a page or two back corrected me on...

RAM = .5mm thickness
VRM = 1mm thickness

Just looked at my RX 480 instruction sheet and confirmed. Unless there is a difference between sizes, I expect the Aurus block should be the same. If there are still questions about this I would recommend holding off purchasing the fujopoly strips until block is in hand for confirmation.









I really dug the precut RAM strip when it came time to apply them. I'm pretty OCD and hate miscut TIM strips. So at least having the RAM strip precut minimized my typical annoyance of pieces not being hand cut precisely to size.









~Ceadder


----------



## coccosoids

What would you advise for cooling a 5960x - the S240 or the S360 and what would be the trade-offs going with the smaller one? Thanks.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> MSI X370 XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM AM4
> 
> 
> 
> No real ETA but it could be somewhere around mid-May.
Click to expand...

thanks alot ~!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Like I thought, I wasn't able to get the information on the thermal pads thickness. Sorry.


That's OK, I appreciate you asking. Hopefully the 1.0mm and 0.5mm Fujipoly Extreme pads that I ordered will be sufficient.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coccosoids*
> 
> What would you advise for cooling a 5960x - the S240 or the S360 and what would be the trade-offs going with the smaller one? Thanks.


A SE 240 would be just fine for cooling your chip. The only trade off going SE 360 is 120mm of cooling surface. It's not that big a deal to go with the cheaper of the two. But, you would gain more cooling surface and better headroom for overclocking going with the SE 360. I ran a 360 Radiator for my 1100T and MB and my average Temps were around 40c with Turbo clock enabled. I haven't had the ability to run my sig rig for a few years(due to the modding process my case is undergoing) so I'm going off my last run. When Folding average Temps went up to 40c-ish.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing a new monoblock for the ASUS® ROG MAXIMUS IX APEX


----------



## Alpina 7

What is up guys I hope everyone's doing OK Havnt been in this thread in a long time. So right now I have the corsair 760T and I'm trying to figure out what I need to do to upgrade to a P5 but I'm trying to figure out my water cooling situation. Right now I have 2 EK predator 360s in my case one in the top and one on the bottom and I'm wondering what will fit on the P5 I know you could put one large radiator in the front is there any room for my two predators in the back of the case I don't want to let them just sit in a closet I paid good money for them and Id like to utilize them any ideas guys? Here's a picture of my case

Or for the time being any ideas on how to shorten my runs or redo my loop to look "cleaner"


----------



## swiftshot

Well, I finally did it. I have for years been running an AIO unit. On my new build, I really started looking hard at building my own. The problem was what the hell do you need? Solved with the EK kits.

EKWB EK-KIT L240 Complete Dual 120mm Water / Liquid Cooling Kit 240mm (Rev 2.0)

I am looking forward to its arrival.


----------



## NeoConker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> What is up guys I hope everyone's doing OK Havnt been in this thread in a long time. So right now I have the corsair 760T and I'm trying to figure out what I need to do to upgrade to a P5 but I'm trying to figure out my water cooling situation. Right now I have 2 EK predator 360s in my case one in the top and one on the bottom and I'm wondering what will fit on the P5 I know you could put one large radiator in the front is there any room for my two predators in the back of the case I don't want to let them just sit in a closet I paid good money for them and Id like to utilize them any ideas guys? Here's a picture of my case
> 
> Or for the time being any ideas on how to shorten my runs or redo my loop to look "cleaner"


Buy one or two of this to mount the reservouir inside, on the front radiator

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoConker*
> 
> Buy one or two of this to mount the reservouir inside, on the front radiator
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan


Ok I can do that ... and I know I can fit a 480 mm radiator in that case but how can I utilize my two 360s that I have?


----------



## rolandos582

Hmm I just noticed that I got a cyclone in one of my reservoir since I removed my EK anti cyclone logo. One is fine but the other one is just cycloning like crazy. Pretty fast aswell, is there any other solutions then putting back the EK badge?

I'm using 2x EK 250ml reservoirs


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Ok I can do that ... and I know I can fit a 480 mm radiator in that case but how can I utilize my two 360s that I have?


When you say p5 I'm assuming you're talking about the Thermaltake case. I know I've seen pics of someone mounting rads on the back but I'm certain it requires modding the case. There's no real ventilation for them back there. Likely need to use some sort of standoff to allow air to move. This isn't particularly ideal.

As for using the predators, if you're thinking of using them as strictly radiators that won't really work. Maybe if you opened up the pump and removed the impellers.

My suggestion would be to sell the predators and begin working on a true custom loop. Get the 480mm radiator and do it right.

I suppose if you dropped down to the p3 and used one of your predator 360s that would probably work fine.

I started with a predator 240,expanding it a bit but eventually just built a custom loop. Allows for more flexibility when it comes to cases.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> When you say p5 I'm assuming you're talking about the Thermaltake case. I know I've seen pics of someone mounting rads on the back but I'm certain it requires modding the case. There's no real ventilation for them back there. Likely need to use some sort of standoff to allow air to move. This isn't particularly ideal.
> 
> As for using the predators, if you're thinking of using them as strictly radiators that won't really work. Maybe if you opened up the pump and removed the impellers.
> 
> My suggestion would be to sell the predators and begin working on a true custom loop. Get the 480mm radiator and do it right.
> 
> I suppose if you dropped down to the p3 and used one of your predator 360s that would probably work fine.
> 
> I started with a predator 240,expanding it a bit but eventually just built a custom loop. Allows for more flexibility when it comes to cases.


Ok good advice thanks. What you think I can sell them for now on the market or Craigslist?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Ok good advice thanks. What you think I can sell them for now on the market or Craigslist?


Hard to say really. They've sort of got a rep to deal with.


----------



## Alpina 7

Really? I've always been impressed by them honestly


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Really? I've always been impressed by them honestly


I think said reputation has to deal with the fact that leaks seemed to be a regular problem in various areas. First revision was a bad oring from supplier so block leaked, then there were the issues with the block and micro fractures, then all the issues with the pump area (cracks, small leaks, and worst of all sometimes the area hoses went on would snap off).... Combined with five revisions of the product followed by being discontinued silently, then add the icing of the replacement having had it's date bumped twice now (was Q1, then Q2, and is now slated for a Q3 release). There is also the stigma of "if I do anything to it, warranty is gone" (even though it's incorrect regarding maintenance).

While I wouldn't doubt the actual amount that had problems would be fairly low, and those problems were taken care of by EK rather well (and quickly too), the reputation of the Predator is, sadly, one of "buyer beware, and do your research" because of these various things.


----------



## Panther Al

So far - knock on wood - been running a Predator 240 in my ITX machine, and haven't had any issues at all. So, your mileage may vary on that.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I think said reputation has to deal with the fact that leaks seemed to be a regular problem in various areas. First revision was a bad oring from supplier so block leaked, then there were the issues with the block and micro fractures, then all the issues with the pump area (cracks, small leaks, and worst of all sometimes the area hoses went on would snap off).... Combined with five revisions of the product followed by being discontinued silently, then add the icing of the replacement having had it's date bumped twice now (was Q1, then Q2, and is now slated for a Q3 release). There is also the stigma of "if I do anything to it, warranty is gone" (even though it's incorrect regarding maintenance).
> 
> While I wouldn't doubt the actual amount that had problems would be fairly low, and those problems were taken care of by EK rather well (and quickly too), the reputation of the Predator is, sadly, one of "buyer beware, and do your research" because of these various things.


Wow I had no idea about all the revisions. I was there for 1.1 and had mine replaced but that's it. I've been out of the game for a year now. I'm going to do a good inspection of both of my 360's now... I think it's just time for me to go full custom loop. Are the EK 480 rads still recommended ?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing Full-Cover water blocks for the ASUS® ROG Strix GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti


@akira749

So I'm looking at this block on the EK website preparing myself for the release of the Aorus block and I see that it's $150, but there is a $33 tax so it comes out to $183 for the block. Why is that? I'm in MA, USA so is that a sales tax for my state? Also there is only an option to preorder it, saying that it will start shipping on April 26th which was yesterday. Not sure if that's an error? Lastly, I'm not seeing the block on Performance-PCS or Frozen-CPU. How long after the blocks release do the U.S. retailers receive their batches to sell?

Once the Aorus block is released I want to be able to receive it in the fastest manner possible so I'm guessing that it would be quicker to get it shipped internationally directly from EK rather than waiting for the US retailers to receive them? Is that a _possibly_ correct assumption? I know there are many other factors such as the chance of customs holding onto a package for a while.

Thanks for your patience dealing with all my questions. I appreciate you taking the time to answer them all.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I think said reputation has to deal with the fact that leaks seemed to be a regular problem in various areas. First revision was a bad oring from supplier so block leaked, then there were the issues with the block and micro fractures, then all the issues with the pump area (cracks, small leaks, and worst of all sometimes the area hoses went on would snap off).... Combined with five revisions of the product followed by being discontinued silently, then add the icing of the replacement having had it's date bumped twice now (was Q1, then Q2, and is now slated for a Q3 release). There is also the stigma of "if I do anything to it, warranty is gone" (even though it's incorrect regarding maintenance).
> 
> While I wouldn't doubt the actual amount that had problems would be fairly low, and those problems were taken care of by EK rather well (and quickly too), the reputation of the Predator is, sadly, one of "buyer beware, and do your research" because of these various things.


Yeah, exactly what I meant. Ek has a great rep, the predator, not so much. Like a lot of others, I had no issue with my 1.0 nor my 1.1 I got with the first recall.

You could have zero issues with yours and probably won't have any but when it comes to selling it all it takes is a quick Google search from a potential buyer to throw a wrench into things.

Probably the main reason I'll just hold on to mine. I could probably get a few bucks out of it but I think I'd rather keep it. Could come in handy.

FYI. I'm not still using mine for any reasons like leaking or fear of it leaking. I simply got the bug to go full custom loop. I had already added a gpu block (Bitspower) and external res and was considering adding another rad, maybe a second pump. Just decided to go all out!

Also I thought by holding on to it, if I decide to sell my 980ti I could assemble the predator on the card with the Bitspower block as sort of an AIO cooled gpu. Might look like an attractive deal, seeing as its expandable and all. I ran the 980ti oc'd to 1500 and a 4790k @ 4.4 on the single 240 with more than acceptable temps.


----------



## Alpina 7

for me i love EK as a company and their products are top notch in my eyes. i wish i could say the same about the predators though. before the 1.1 revision one of them leaked fliud from the cpu block all over my graphics card. fun times.... no issues from 1.1 though. i have 2 360's


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing Full-Cover water blocks for the ASUS® ROG Strix GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @akira749
> 
> So I'm looking at this block on the EK website preparing myself for the release of the Aorus block and I see that it's $150, but there is a $33 tax so it comes out to $183 for the block. Why is that? I'm in MA, USA so is that a sales tax for my state? Also there is only an option to preorder it, saying that it will start shipping on April 26th which was yesterday. Not sure if that's an error? Lastly, I'm not seeing the block on Performance-PCS or Frozen-CPU. How long after the blocks release do the U.S. retailers receive their batches to sell?
> 
> Once the Aorus block is released I want to be able to receive it in the fastest manner possible so I'm guessing that it would be quicker to get it shipped internationally directly from EK rather than waiting for the US retailers to receive them? Is that a _possibly_ correct assumption? I know there are many other factors such as the chance of customs holding onto a package for a while.
> 
> Thanks for your patience dealing with all my questions. I appreciate you taking the time to answer them all.
Click to expand...

Iirc, the quoted price includes the VAT for International consumers outside of the EU. I could be wrong but $153 would be the whole price if you aren't in the EU sales area.









~Ceadder


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Iirc, the quoted price includes the VAT for International consumers outside of the EU. I could be wrong but $153 would be the whole price if you aren't in the EU sales area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Easiest way to fix tax coming up is create an account and put your address in. It usually takes VAT away at that point if you live in a country where VAT does not apply.


----------



## lzf995




----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Iirc, the quoted price includes the VAT for International consumers outside of the EU. I could be wrong but $153 would be the whole price if you aren't in the EU sales area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easiest way to fix tax coming up is create an account and put your address in. It usually takes VAT away at that point if you live in a country where VAT does not apply.
Click to expand...

Yep. I could only think VAT when I posted my reply. Inside EU, VAT. Outside, no VAT.









~Ceadder


----------



## RadActiveLobstr

So has there been any new info about the modular cooling that was suppose to launch soon?


----------



## HaykOC

"EK Predator & Supremacy backplate issue

Using the EK Predator or Supremacy rubber gasket causes the board not to turn on or become unstable. Contact EK directly for a replacement."

From the Asus C6H thread. I already have the Supremacy AM4 block but on a different motherboard. Is there a different part ill need for this block to get it working with the C6H?

For the MSI I just took the mounting brackets off the motherboard and screwed this right on like you would for 2011-3. Different on the C6H?


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing a new monoblock for the ASUS® ROG Strix Z270I Gaming


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HaykOC*
> 
> "EK Predator & Supremacy backplate issue
> 
> Using the EK Predator or Supremacy rubber gasket causes the board not to turn on or become unstable. Contact EK directly for a replacement."
> 
> From the Asus C6H thread. I already have the Supremacy AM4 block but on a different motherboard. Is there a different part ill need for this block to get it working with the C6H?
> 
> For the MSI I just took the mounting brackets off the motherboard and screwed this right on like you would for 2011-3. Different on the C6H?


No. The AMD-specific version of the Supremacy EVO (that only comes with the AMD hardware and not the Intel hardware) just screws into the stock C6H backplate.

That warning is only for standard Supremacy EVO versions that don't use the stock backplate.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> No. The AMD-specific version of the Supremacy EVO (that only comes with the AMD hardware and not the Intel hardware) just screws into the stock C6H backplate.
> 
> That warning is only for standard Supremacy EVO versions that don't use the stock backplate.


Correct and if you buy the regular supremacy evo you can get the am4 hardware with its own backplate for free (people see to have issues with it but for me on two different boards ive had no issues)

If i had known they were gonna come out with a screw design i would have waited for those and just installed em but considering this works fine its not a big deal.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> If i had known they were gonna come out with a screw design i would have waited for those and just installed em but considering this works fine its not a big deal.


Me too. I ordered mine directly from EK so I could get the AM4 hardware free but it didn't make any difference. I still had to unmount the thing and take out that center portion then re-mount it again (I had boot problems with the center portion in there).

Days later they introduced the AM4-specific versions and that pissed me off.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> Me too. I ordered mine directly from EK so I could get the AM4 hardware free but it didn't make any difference. Days later they introduced the AM4-specific versions and that pissed me off.


I'm sure if we ask support we can get em for free, unfortunately for me my board sits horizontally so id have to take the mobo off to replace the backplate back to amd am4 one (i could do it from under the tray but my rad is in the way its much easier removing the mobo)


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> I'm sure if we ask support we can get em for free


Doesn't matter for me now. I took apart my Ryzen build and I will be selling the parts -- need the money to fix my car.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing a new monoblock for the ASUS® ROG Strix Z270I Gaming


Was hoping you wouldn't do this. Now I have to watercool my other pc just so I can use this beautiful block.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing a new monoblock for the ASUS® ROG Strix Z270I Gaming


Any idea on how soon they'll be available from PPCs, the DHL was just too crazy high when I went to preorder from the webstore?

Darlene


----------



## Jubijub

Hello everyone,

For my "Fast learner"build below, considering I want to push my 6900K to 4.0 / 4.2, do you believe a motherboard monoblock would be better than CPU block + good air flow ?


----------



## Wally West

Which jet plate do I need to use for AM4 if I bought the compatibility kit?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Which jet plate do I need to use for AM4 if I bought the compatibility kit?


I just used whatever they wrote in the manual for amd, tends to work out pretty well my temps stay below 50°C lol.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Which jet plate do I need to use for AM4 if I bought the compatibility kit?


The difference between any of the jet plates is likely to be a degree or two at most, so it's not required to switch them out anyway.

If you really need to know, go to the EKWB web store and find the page for your block. There will be an instruction manual PDF there which has the info you are looking for.

Or, read the manual that came with your block (which is a printed version of the PDF).


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> The difference between any of the jet plates is likely to be a degree or two at most, so it's not required to switch them out anyway.
> 
> If you really need to know, go to the EKWB web store and find the page for your block. There will be an instruction manual PDF there which has the info you are looking for.
> 
> Or, read the manual that came with your block (which is a printed version of the PDF).


The jet plate is just different thickness, if anything the insert makes the most difference (i think the insert has a wider mouth to get increased flow in for high tdp AMD chips) would make sense as well. Taking it apart thats what i noticed.


----------



## superstition222

These are the relevant variables I can think of when it comes to jet plates and specific chip format (not in order of importance):

1) Heat spreader size.

2) Heat spreader thickness.

3) Use of solder or polymer TIM.

4) Size of die.

5) How concentrated is the heat per square mm versus the same level of heat on another chip format design (i.e. hot spots, hot center, or more spread out; dense vs. performance library; process node differences; integrated graphics using large amounts of the die, likely to be idle for enthusiasts most of the time; deactivated cores.

6) Spreaders are typically concave, flat, or convex. (Both of my AM3+ chips were concave.)

Did I forget anything?

What would be nice to see is for companies to specifically explain why the jet plates are engineered the way they're engineered.


----------



## Ceadderman

EK jet plates are designed for cooling and stiffening of the block through tesion. This has been stated time and again as a reason not to lapp the cooling surface of their blocks.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sazexa

Quick question for EK DDC 3.2 PWM users. I have the unit and I use it as a combo unit with a reservoir. Sometimes my pump needs a "shock" to get it started pumping. And by that, I mean a solid tap/smack on the housing. I think I've traced it down to when I'm using it with the mesh anti-cyclone instead of the EK stand that goes inside the reservoir. Does anyone have any input on the matter?


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Quick question for EK DDC 3.2 PWM users. I have the unit and I use it as a combo unit with a reservoir. Sometimes my pump needs a "shock" to get it started pumping. And by that, I mean a solid tap/smack on the housing. I think I've traced it down to when I'm using it with the mesh anti-cyclone instead of the EK stand that goes inside the reservoir. Does anyone have any input on the matter?


The pump should start up regardless of the anti-cyclone type you're using. It might be a tiny bit harder to suck water through that type, but it wouldn't be enough to stop it from working. I suggest you start shopping for a new pump.


----------



## MNMadman

EKWB stuff used:
EK-Supremacy EVO Copper+Plexi CPU Block
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM Reservoir/Pump Combo
EK-Coolstream PE 240 Radiator
EK-Coolstream PE 360 Radiator
EK-ACF 10mm/16mm Black Compression Fittings (10)
EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm Fan) Vertical


----------



## Jubijub

Here is my forecasted loop for the Fast learner, my new rig.
Full list of components in my Build link below.

Source : https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QTofv_fo4McbBv25TuTFBGP_eGQOGR38tuT_AG5EKmQ

Sounds good to you ?


----------



## Ceadderman

That is a worthy setup.









~Ceadder


----------



## jestereightfour

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Quick question for EK DDC 3.2 PWM users. I have the unit and I use it as a combo unit with a reservoir. Sometimes my pump needs a "shock" to get it started pumping. And by that, I mean a solid tap/smack on the housing. I think I've traced it down to when I'm using it with the mesh anti-cyclone instead of the EK stand that goes inside the reservoir. Does anyone have any input on the matter?


Never had to smack mine and I've run the foam piece and the ek stand at the same time. That's probably not a good sign...


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Here is my forecasted loop for the Fast learner, my new rig.
> Full list of components in my Build link below.
> 
> Source : https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QTofv_fo4McbBv25TuTFBGP_eGQOGR38tuT_AG5EKmQ
> 
> Sounds good to you ?


I'd suggest 2 pumps so you can run them at 60% and have a quieter setup.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Here is my forecasted loop for the Fast learner, my new rig.
> Full list of components in my Build link below.
> 
> Source : https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QTofv_fo4McbBv25TuTFBGP_eGQOGR38tuT_AG5EKmQ
> 
> Sounds good to you ?


What an immense amount of rad area... I love it









Have you considered running the top rad with the outlets towards the front of the case? That way you can do less fittings and runs directly above the mobo and move some of it towards a more unused area of the case. I'm also unsure about the Y fitting for a drain, but I'm sure you have a plan with that.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I'd suggest 2 pumps so you can run them at 60% and have a quieter setup.


Sorry it is not clear on the diagram, but this will be the case : dual Aquacomputer D5, + EKWB Revo dual top

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> What an immense amount of rad area... I love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you considered running the top rad with the outlets towards the front of the case? That way you can do less fittings and runs directly above the mobo and move some of it towards a more unused area of the case. I'm also unsure about the Y fitting for a drain, but I'm sure you have a plan with that.


I absolutely want silence, so oversized rad area should allow to keep a decent delta T° without fans sounding like a helicopter

For the top rad, this was one of my questions. I will have the Aquaero 6 in that area, so I'll have to figure out which is the less crowded.

For the Y drain, don't assume anything, this is my first loop, this may be entirely wrong







What is your concern ? Having never emptied a loop, I have no idea if this would work


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

EK Supremacy EVO CPU block, TitanXp Full Cover w/backplate, D5 pump, 110mm Res.



I modified the res to have a riser tube that intersects the back port, the only way I could figure how to fill, vent, and drain the loop. There's a plugged ball valve in the back of the case, that's where I filled from.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Sorry it is not clear on the diagram, but this will be the case : dual Aquacomputer D5, + EKWB Revo dual top
> I absolutely want silence, so oversized rad area should allow to keep a decent delta T° without fans sounding like a helicopter
> 
> For the top rad, this was one of my questions. I will have the Aquaero 6 in that area, so I'll have to figure out which is the less crowded.
> 
> For the Y drain, don't assume anything, this is my first loop, this may be entirely wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is your concern ? Having never emptied a loop, I have no idea if this would work


I would have preferred having a multiport radiator in the bottom and just run a drain from that, but the concern with a Y fitting is that it's not going to drain that easily (a T fitting would be a better choice for that). Since you only have 2 openings on the rad though, then I would split up one of the ports there and add a ball valve. It should make draining fairly easily if you lay your case on the side with that opened up. I could do a couple of quick sketches for you if you are confused as to what I mean.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jestereightfour*
> 
> Never had to smack mine and I've run the foam piece and the ek stand at the same time. That's probably not a good sign...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> The pump should start up regardless of the anti-cyclone type you're using. It might be a tiny bit harder to suck water through that type, but it wouldn't be enough to stop it from working. I suggest you start shopping for a new pump.


Here's the thing. I've ran the pump in four loops and it's been fine on and off.

The first loop has used a pump top without a reservoir, and it ran fine. The second loop used the foam pad for a little while, and eventually I needed to smack it to get it running.

The third loop used a plastic anti-cyclone piece, and it would always run fine.

The fourth and newest loop is using the anti-cyclone piece again, and now it needs a good smack to get running every time the system powers on.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Sorry it is not clear on the diagram, but this will be the case : dual Aquacomputer D5, + EKWB Revo dual top
> I absolutely want silence, so oversized rad area should allow to keep a decent delta T° without fans sounding like a helicopter
> 
> For the top rad, this was one of my questions. I will have the Aquaero 6 in that area, so I'll have to figure out which is the less crowded.
> 
> For the Y drain, don't assume anything, this is my first loop, this may be entirely wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is your concern ? Having never emptied a loop, I have no idea if this would work


It's clear, I jused missed it. Are you going with hard or soft tubing?


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> EK Supremacy EVO CPU block, TitanXp Full Cover w/backplate, D5 pump, 110mm Res.
> 
> 
> 
> I modified the res to have a riser tube that intersects the back port, the only way I could figure how to fill, vent, and drain the loop. There's a plugged ball valve in the back of the case, that's where I filled from.


very neat build, considering the space !

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I would have preferred having a multiport radiator in the bottom and just run a drain from that, but the concern with a Y fitting is that it's not going to drain that easily (a T fitting would be a better choice for that). Since you only have 2 openings on the rad though, then I would split up one of the ports there and add a ball valve. It should make draining fairly easily if you lay your case on the side with that opened up. I could do a couple of quick sketches for you if you are confused as to what I mean.


no I guess I see : you advocate for a T split, plugged straight to one of the ports of the 560 rad, preferrably the bottom one (the rad will be on the side of the case, in the lower chamber.

Anyway I realized I missed an air intake port, which need to be on the top side, in order to let air in (from what I've read, some people blow inside to make water go away quicker, or use canned air or a compressor / blower)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> It's clear, I jused missed it. Are you going with hard or soft tubing?


soft...first loop, I went for ease.
I am still on the fence between clear tubbing or Black rubber (ZMT) : I heard nasty things about fittings not fitting tight enough on ZMT.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> very neat build, considering the space !
> no I guess I see : you advocate for a T split, plugged straight to one of the ports of the 560 rad, preferrably the bottom one (the rad will be on the side of the case, in the lower chamber.
> 
> Anyway I realized I missed an air intake port, which need to be on the top side, in order to let air in (from what I've read, some people blow inside to make water go away quicker, or use canned air or a compressor / blower)
> soft...first loop, I went for ease.
> I am still on the fence between clear tubbing or Black rubber (ZMT) : I heard nasty things about fittings not fitting tight enough on ZMT.


It's not a necessity to have an air intake in your loop, but just opening it (you don't nee to blow in it) will help quite a bit with filling and draining your loop. I don't see how you could add one to yours using those specific radiators though, so I would personally change the top rad for something like an Alphacool nexxxos 480 instead simply due to there being more ports to help you with bleeding the loop. Performance wise they are all so close that it real does not matter, but I understand it if you prefer HWLabs radiators as they are just terrific.

Edit: Oh, and just because I wanted to. Here's a rudementary sketch (my wacom was all out of juice) of how I would do the drain.

You would also need another male to male between the 90* and the ball valve, but I forgot to add that.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Here's the thing. I've ran the pump in four loops and it's been fine on and off.
> 
> The first loop has used a pump top without a reservoir, and it ran fine. The second loop used the foam pad for a little while, and eventually I needed to smack it to get it running.
> 
> The third loop used a plastic anti-cyclone piece, and it would always run fine.
> 
> The fourth and newest loop is using the anti-cyclone piece again, and now it needs a good smack to get running every time the system powers on.


I don't know what to tell you. That doesn't make any sense, as the pump has no clue what kind of anti-cyclone tech you're using -- or even if you're using anything at all. There also aren't inlet sensors or anything that would tell it not to start up if there was a blockage of any kind.

Since you actually had different loops each time, perhaps it's not the anti-cyclone but something else in the loops (or outside the loops) that's causing the non-starting. Since it's PWM, have you tried different fan headers? Or even disconnecting it from the header completely (it should then default to maximum speed I think)? Maybe it's not getting a good startup signal or the minimum RPMs of the fan header are too low?


----------



## D13mass

Guys, who can help me with issue: I installed EK-FC1080 GTX Ti - Nickel but temps after 10 seconds of Heaven benchmark more then 70








I have done everything like in manual: remove old cooling system from my FE 1080ti, installed term pads and all other stuff from here https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109831915.pdf

Maybe I forgot something ? Maybe some removing membrane from water block ?


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> It's not a necessity to have an air intake in your loop, but just opening it (you don't nee to blow in it) will help quite a bit with filling and draining your loop. I don't see how you could add one to yours using those specific radiators though, so I would personally change the top rad for something like an Alphacool nexxxos 480 instead simply due to there being more ports to help you with bleeding the loop. Performance wise they are all so close that it real does not matter, but I understand it if you prefer HWLabs radiators as they are just terrific.
> 
> Edit: Oh, and just because I wanted to. Here's a rudementary sketch (my wacom was all out of juice) of how I would do the drain.
> 
> You would also need another male to male between the 90* and the ball valve, but I forgot to add that.


Thanks for the drawing.
In my case the rad will be on the side, but that doesn't change much to the layout, except I won't need a 90° fitting just before the valve but simply a straight one.

For the rad it's a bit late, I have the box sitting under my desk







(and since I had to pay 40.-CHF as tax clearance to get it in, I won't send it out








It is true 2 ports is a bit cheap, I guess I'll find a way : this will require extreme case bending


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> very neat build, considering the space !
> no I guess I see : you advocate for a T split, plugged straight to one of the ports of the 560 rad, preferrably the bottom one (the rad will be on the side of the case, in the lower chamber.
> 
> Anyway I realized I missed an air intake port, which need to be on the top side, in order to let air in (from what I've read, some people blow inside to make water go away quicker, or use canned air or a compressor / blower)
> soft...first loop, I went for ease.
> I am still on the fence between clear tubbing or Black rubber (ZMT) : I heard nasty things about fittings not fitting tight enough on ZMT.


I went with soft tubing with 2 D5 pumps and my pump inlet tubing was sucked flat, seriously restricting flow. I was able to replace the tubing with fittings to address the issue.


----------



## Neokolzia

Doing my 1080ti block, quick question, is it odd that the thermal pads under the blue cover for memory is smooth and not sticky???? I.e only sticky on one side?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Thanks for the drawing.
> In my case the rad will be on the side, but that doesn't change much to the layout, except I won't need a 90° fitting just before the valve but simply a straight one.
> 
> For the rad it's a bit late, I have the box sitting under my desk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (and since I had to pay 40.-CHF as tax clearance to get it in, I won't send it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is true 2 ports is a bit cheap, I guess I'll find a way : this will require extreme case bending


No biggie, you can always find a way to let some air in to the loop. Perhaps a T fitting from the top rad with a separate tube fitted with a stop fitting. It won't help with any air trapped in the top rad but it will make it far easier to bleed the lower components. maybe it can even be used as a fill port. Not sure how to best do all of that though, I'm spoiled with my Nexxxos rads in that sence. I got them dirt cheap and they have made my life a lot easier considering how I have my reservoir mounted, in fact I just fill my entire loop through my top rad.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Doing my 1080ti block, quick question, is it odd that the thermal pads under the blue cover for memory is smooth and not sticky???? I.e only sticky on one side?


There should be covers on both sides of the pads


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Doing my 1080ti block, quick question, is it odd that the thermal pads under the blue cover for memory is smooth and not sticky???? I.e only sticky on one side?


Do note that thermal pads may come with _different_ protective film on the opposite sides. One side is more textured and comes off easily. The other side is smooth and is more difficult to peel off.

Once you're sure that you peeled the films on _both_ sides, that's it, go for it.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Alright it's early May let's release that Aorus block!!!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Which jet plate do I need to use for AM4 if I bought the compatibility kit?


I2 insert and J2 jet plate are the recommended ones for AMD.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Quick question for EK DDC 3.2 PWM users. I have the unit and I use it as a combo unit with a reservoir. Sometimes my pump needs a "shock" to get it started pumping. And by that, I mean a solid tap/smack on the housing. I think I've traced it down to when I'm using it with the mesh anti-cyclone instead of the EK stand that goes inside the reservoir. Does anyone have any input on the matter?


All these loops were with the same pump top or you changed it in some loops?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Doing my 1080ti block, quick question, is it odd that the thermal pads under the blue cover for memory is smooth and not sticky???? I.e only sticky on one side?


Did you remove the protective film on both sides of the pad?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Quick question for EK DDC 3.2 PWM users. I have the unit and I use it as a combo unit with a reservoir. Sometimes my pump needs a "shock" to get it started pumping. And by that, I mean a solid tap/smack on the housing. I think I've traced it down to when I'm using it with the mesh anti-cyclone instead of the EK stand that goes inside the reservoir. Does anyone have any input on the matter?


Delayed and failed startup is a semi common phenomenon among DDC pumps. Most cases that I have heard of eventually progress to full electrical death of the pump.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I went with soft tubing with 2 D5 pumps and my pump inlet tubing was sucked flat, seriously restricting flow. I was able to replace the tubing with fittings to address the issue.


So I get this right : the sheer pump activity would make the tubing become flat ? What type of tube size were you using ? Did you consider a kink coil before moving to fittings ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> No biggie, you can always find a way to let some air in to the loop. Perhaps a T fitting from the top rad with a separate tube fitted with a stop fitting. It won't help with any air trapped in the top rad but it will make it far easier to bleed the lower components. maybe it can even be used as a fill port. Not sure how to best do all of that though, I'm spoiled with my Nexxxos rads in that sence. I got them dirt cheap and they have made my life a lot easier considering how I have my reservoir mounted, in fact I just fill my entire loop through my top rad.


I need to add this to the loop. The top rad worries me a bit, i hope that by bending the case in every direction I should be able to get rid of most the air. Hopefully the res will help with bleeding too.


----------



## Neokolzia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Doing my 1080ti block, quick question, is it odd that the thermal pads under the blue cover for memory is smooth and not sticky???? I.e only sticky on one side?
> 
> 
> 
> Did you remove the protective film on both sides of the pad?
Click to expand...

Ya I did under the blue film on all pads including ones that came with backplate were non sticky under blue, clear film was the sticky side.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> So I get this right : the sheer pump activity would make the tubing become flat ? What type of tube size were you using ? Did you consider a kink coil before moving to fittings ?


My tubing is relatively small diameter (10/13mm) EK Duraclear. I didn't consider kink-coil since it's my first loop, but kink-coil is so 15 years ago. I was able to address the issue by connecting the pump inlet directly to the radiator with a fitting (see pic in sig). Also, my setup is 2 D5 pumps in series. Perhaps a dual D5 behaves differently.

Anyway, that's just my experience with my first and only build. Do what you want with it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Doing my 1080ti block, quick question, is it odd that the thermal pads under the blue cover for memory is smooth and not sticky???? I.e only sticky on one side?


As has been stated, the blue side is a colored film. When I apply my strips, I pull the clear side off and apply to block. I leave the other side alone until I am ready to mount. I pull all the blue film from each piece it covers and mount my block. This way helps ensure that all film is removed before installing components. Both sides of the strips are sticky. So I suggest double checking if you have removed even if you're "certain".









I hope this information makes it back to EK so they can inform the end user in the instruction sheets they include with every block they sell.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I2 insert and J2 jet plate are the recommended ones for AMD.


Thanks, that the one I used.


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> EK jet plates are designed for cooling and stiffening of the block through tesion. This has been stated time and again as a reason not to lapp the cooling surface of their blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Tension?

Anyway, if lapping is out then so is liquid metal TIM.


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I2 insert and J2 jet plate are the recommended ones for AMD.


AMD what?

45nm Phenom? 28nm APUs? 32nm FX chips? 14nm Ryzen?

Those are all different dies.

What, specifically, makes these recommended for what specific AMD parts?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> AMD what?
> 
> 45nm Phenom? 28nm APUs? 32nm FX chips? 14nm Ryzen?
> 
> Those are all different dies.
> 
> What, specifically, makes these recommended for what specific AMD parts?


For all of em, just because of the heatspreader design would be my guess, and maybe the fact that pretty much all the ryzen and fx series are soldered.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> EK jet plates are designed for cooling and stiffening of the block through tesion. This has been stated time and again as a reason not to lapp the cooling surface of their blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tension?
> 
> Anyway, if lapping is out then so is liquid metal TIM.
Click to expand...

When you apply the screws on the block containing.the jetplate to seal the block it applies tension to stiffen the unit. When stiff the base surface flattens. That's why it's not recommended to lapping the cooling surface.

Liquid metal is still a viable option.for cooling but I wouldn't recommend it based on how copper reacts to it when heat is applied. It's fine for Nickel plate but it fills the microscopic valleys in the surface of the metal.

~Ceadder


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> I am still on the fence between clear tubbing or Black rubber (ZMT) : I heard nasty things about fittings not fitting tight enough on ZMT.


Not sure what fittings you plan on using but I have no issues using ek acf fittings. Takes quite a bit of force to pull the zmt out.

That being said, as happy as I am with the ZMT, I'm thinking of moving to clear to add a bit of color to the rig.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Not sure what fittings you plan on using but I have no issues using ek acf fittings. Takes quite a bit of force to pull the zmt out.
> 
> That being said, as happy as I am with the ZMT, I'm thinking of moving to clear to add a bit of color to the rig.


I am considering EK ACF as well, with a 10/16 tubing size.

Since it's my first loop, i guess I'll go with clear, so I can see the liquid, bubbles, etc...


----------



## Silent Scone

Still waiting for shipping confirmation on my Strix block. Sent a ticket on Saturday but have yet to have a reply. Estimated shipping said last Friday @akira749


----------



## D13mass

How I like EK


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> AMD what?
> 
> 45nm Phenom? 28nm APUs? 32nm FX chips? 14nm Ryzen?
> 
> Those are all different dies.
> 
> What, specifically, makes these recommended for what specific AMD parts?


All of them. Those choices have been made by the R&D dept. after testing them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> Still waiting for shipping confirmation on my Strix block. Sent a ticket on Saturday but have yet to have a reply. Estimated shipping said last Friday @akira749


Your ticket is still not answered?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> How I like EK
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sorry about that. You're not the only one who had this issue. The first batchs of 1080Ti blocks were sent with the single-slot bracket not secured enough and this happened during the transport.

Open a ticket on our website and we'll send you a replacement shroud. Link for the ticket : https://www.ekwb.com/customer-care/


----------



## Kimir

Woohoo, received a mail that said the QDC are available (standalone). Finally.


----------



## Zakiel

Any update on the shipping of Strix ti block? Submitted 2 tickets one on april 27th and another on may 1st. No reply whatsoever. At this point I'm just trying to cancel my order. @akira749


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> All of them. Those choices have been made by the R&D dept. after testing them.
> Your ticket is still not answered?
> Sorry about that. You're not the only one who had this issue. The first batchs of 1080Ti blocks were sent with the single-slot bracket not secured enough and this happened during the transport.
> 
> Open a ticket on our website and we'll send you a replacement shroud. Link for the ticket : https://www.ekwb.com/customer-care/


Thank you! Already created a request #39617


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> When you apply the screws on the block containing.the jetplate to seal the block it applies tension to stiffen the unit. When stiff the base surface flattens. That's why it's not recommended to lapping the cooling surface.
> 
> Liquid metal is still a viable option.for cooling but I wouldn't recommend it based on how copper reacts to it when heat is applied. It's fine for Nickel plate but it fills the microscopic valleys in the surface of the metal.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Liquid metal bonds/dries with copper. I have used it on an EK MX block. In order to apply it again lapping is required. That's why I said no liquid metal TIM if no lapping. The other issue is that Liquid Pro dried so quickly the second time I applied it to the block (after the first lapping) that I wonder about good contact.

I will also note that the EK block, as I recall, was very flat - unlike the spreaders on the 8320E and 8370E which were quite concave. So, unless one has dried-on liquid metal, lapping the EK block seems fruitless.


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> All of them. Those choices have been made by the R&D dept. after testing them.


For all we know it means they tested Phenom, made the recommendation, and haven't tested anything since.

Basically, we're supposed to just take "because we said so" as the answer.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> All of them. Those choices have been made by the R&D dept. after testing them.
> 
> 
> 
> For all we know it means they tested Phenom, made the recommendation, and haven't tested anything since.
> 
> Basically, we're supposed to just take "because we said so" as the answer.
Click to expand...

You are of course, perfectly welcome to set up your own lab and do the tests yourself and present your methodologies and findings . . . .

Myself, on the other hand, who could probably actually do that, . . . (wouldn't be the first time I've dug into things and reported findings on them)

I'm gonna take their word on it for now.

They're there to sell blocks, and the best way to do that is to be sure that users have the best results possible with EK branded hardware.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> When you apply the screws on the block containing.the jetplate to seal the block it applies tension to stiffen the unit. When stiff the base surface flattens. That's why it's not recommended to lapping the cooling surface.
> 
> Liquid metal is still a viable option.for cooling but I wouldn't recommend it based on how copper reacts to it when heat is applied. It's fine for Nickel plate but it fills the microscopic valleys in the surface of the metal.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Liquid metal bonds/dries with copper. I have used it on an EK MX block. In order to apply it again lapping is required. That's why I said no liquid metal TIM if no lapping. The other issue is that Liquid Pro dried so quickly the second time I applied it to the block (after the first lapping) that I wonder about good contact.
> 
> I will also note that the EK block, as I recall, was very flat - unlike the spreaders on the 8320E and 8370E which were quite concave. So, unless one has dried-on liquid metal, lapping the EK block seems fruitless.
Click to expand...

I am well aware that LM pastes bond to copper. It doesn't bond to Nickel plate however.

Just pointing out that EK advises against lapping their CPU blocks because they aren't flat, but get their flatness from tension applied at the block screws when the JP is installed and becomes one with the top. Then it is "flat".

Lapping the cooling surface of the block could infact alter the shape of the block's cooling surface. However, there are ways of cleaning the LM off the surface of copper. Maybe a hand torch/heat gun could heat up the LM enough to be mostly wiped away. You likely could not get everything but it could get quite a bit I'm sure.









~Ceadder


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I am well aware that LM pastes bond to copper. It doesn't bond to Nickel plate however.
> 
> Just pointing out that EK advises against lapping their CPU blocks because they aren't flat, but get their flatness from tension applied at the block screws when the JP is installed and becomes one with the top. Then it is "flat".
> 
> Lapping the cooling surface of the block could infact alter the shape of the block's cooling surface. However, there are ways of cleaning the LM off the surface of copper. Maybe a hand torch/heat gun could heat up the LM enough to be mostly wiped away. You likely could not get everything but it could get quite a bit I'm sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thats actually unbelievably easy to test. Pressure paper. For me when i ran bare die, after tightening down it was certainly FAR from flat. Even screwing down corners in steps (and repeated half a dozen times) revealed that there was more pressure on some sides of the cpu socket more then others.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I am well aware that LM pastes bond to copper. It doesn't bond to Nickel plate however.
> 
> Just pointing out that EK advises against lapping their CPU blocks because they aren't flat, but get their flatness from tension applied at the block screws when the JP is installed and becomes one with the top. Then it is "flat".
> 
> Lapping the cooling surface of the block could infact alter the shape of the block's cooling surface. However, there are ways of cleaning the LM off the surface of copper. Maybe a hand torch/heat gun could heat up the LM enough to be mostly wiped away. You likely could not get everything but it could get quite a bit I'm sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats actually unbelievably easy to test. Pressure paper. For me when i ran bare die, after tightening down it was certainly FAR from flat. Even screwing down corners in steps (and repeated half a dozen times) revealed that there was more pressure on some sides of the cpu socket more then others.
Click to expand...

No no. I am referring to top to base screws not block mount screws.









~Ceadder


----------



## becks

@akira749 will I break any warranty by removing this annoying stickers ?


Or do I need to do it "rogue style" and stick them back if needed to send it back ?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> All of them. Those choices have been made by the R&D dept. after testing them.
> 
> 
> 
> For all we know it means they tested Phenom, made the recommendation, and haven't tested anything since.
> 
> Basically, we're supposed to just take "because we said so" as the answer.
Click to expand...

i have tried to reread this... 3 times and every time i can only think of this pic ....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> All of them. Those choices have been made by the R&D dept. after testing them.
> 
> 
> 
> For all we know it means they tested Phenom, made the recommendation, and haven't tested anything since.
> 
> Basically, we're supposed to just take "because we said so" as the answer.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You are of course, perfectly welcome to set up your own lab and do the tests yourself and present your methodologies and findings . . . .
> 
> Myself, on the other hand, who could probably actually do that, . . . (wouldn't be the first time I've dug into things and reported findings on them)
> 
> I'm gonna take their word on it for now.
> 
> They're there to sell blocks, and the best way to do that is to be sure that users have the best results possible with EK branded hardware.
Click to expand...

exactly, "222" always attempts to "question" everything. for no reason. if "you" cant trust "anything but professionals" and apparently not even them.... maybe you should become the " professional "

otherwise you have to trust someone ....


----------



## deafboy

Finally got around to installing the Titan XP and block. Still leak testing so the top grill is off but it's nice to be back to a single card setup, although I did love the look of the Tri-fire setup, lol. EK everything but the fittings and tubing.


----------



## Mega Man

looks great !!!!


----------



## deafboy

Thanks! Main machine is getting up there in age but I still love her, lol.


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Your ticket is still not answered?


No response still, with the ticket still open since Saturday. Also, order still stuck as processing. For a company with no phone number, the least you could expect is a reply. If you're aiming to answer tickets in one working day, you're failing miserably.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Finally got around to installing the Titan XP and block. Still leak testing so the top grill is off but it's nice to be back to a single card setup, although I did love the look of the Tri-fire setup, lol. EK everything but the fittings and tubing.


Really like that


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> No response still, with the ticket still open since Saturday. Also, order still stuck as processing. For a company with no phone number, the least you could expect is a reply. If you're aiming to answer tickets in one working day, you're failing miserably.


Yeah sorry about that.









I sent an email to the HQ to know about that since a lot of people weren't answered recently when they were sending tickets.

I'll let you know.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> @akira749 will I break any warranty by removing this annoying stickers ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or do I need to do it "rogue style" and stick them back if needed to send it back ?


If you're talking about that little orange EK stickers, they are there to cover the leak-free warranty. But as soon as you open the block for maintenance those one will break. But they don't void the main 2 years warranty.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> If you're talking about that little orange EK stickers, they are there to cover the leak-free warranty. But as soon as you open the block for maintenance those one will break. But they don't void the main 2 years warranty.


Got my answer, thank you.


----------



## akira749

@Silent Scone I got a reply. It was a national holiday time in Slovenia (Thursday, Monday and Tuesday). So it's the reason why so many tickets weren't answered. The guys out there are now working like crazy to answer the hundreds of tickets received during this time. So in the upcoming days, you should have yours answered.


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> @Silent Scone I got a reply. It was a national holiday time in Slovenia (Thursday, Monday and Tuesday). So it's the reason why so many tickets weren't answered. The guys out there are now working like crazy to answer the hundreds of tickets received during this time. So in the upcoming days, you should have yours answered.


Ok, thank you. It was a bank holiday here on Monday. Did not expect Slovenia to have a 4 day weekend, though







. This is why a phone service is handy, as you can add automated messages...


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You are of course, perfectly welcome to set up your own lab and do the tests yourself and present your methodologies and findings . . . .


Yeah, that's not a strawman.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> They're there to sell blocks, and the best way to do that is to be sure that users have the best results possible with EK branded hardware.


You do realize that giving users the knowledge they need to make informed decisions is more likely to lead to improved results rather than keeping them in the dark with "because I said so" responses, right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> However, there are ways of cleaning the LM off the surface of copper. Maybe a hand torch/heat gun could heat up the LM enough to be mostly wiped away. You likely could not get everything but it could get quite a bit I'm sure.


When you have some evidence about this actually working I'd be very happy to see it.


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i have tried to reread this... 3 times and every time i can only think of this pic ....
> exactly, "222" always attempts to "question" everything. for no reason. if "you" cant trust "anything but professionals" and apparently not even them.... maybe you should become the " professional "
> 
> otherwise you have to trust someone ....


Better shut down every hardware review site and take the claims of company marketing as gospel. You really should try to think a little bit before posting one of your predictably inept attacks.

May as well shut down enthusiast forums like this one, too. All we need are the words of the companies, like "because we said so".


----------



## Daddyjaxx66

EK is my favorite brand for everything except radiators. For some reason I'm kind of stuck on XSPC RX rads.

I love this baby even though the PCH is still passively cooled.





I just received my last parts from PPC's, so I'm ready to put it in the case now. Been running it like this since Saturday testing it out first.




I sent a question to EK on Saturday and received a response on Monday..............


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superstition222*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You are of course, perfectly welcome to set up your own lab and do the tests yourself and present your methodologies and findings . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, that's not a strawman.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> They're there to sell blocks, and the best way to do that is to be sure that users have the best results possible with EK branded hardware.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You do realize that giving users the knowledge they need to make informed decisions is more likely to lead to improved results rather than keeping them in the dark with "because I said so" responses, right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> However, there are ways of cleaning the LM off the surface of copper. Maybe a hand torch/heat gun could heat up the LM enough to be mostly wiped away. You likely could not get everything but it could get quite a bit I'm sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> When you have some evidence about this actually working I'd be very happy to see it
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Yes, Yes, I know . . . .

And there were 2 shooters in Dallas in '63, the WTC was an inside job, we never really landed on the moon, the Earth is actually flat, it's a big NASA conspiracy, vaccines cause autism, and the universe is geocentric . . .

I hope that's a mighty big rock you live under, you'll need a lot of protection when reality strikes.


----------



## Ceadderman

Don't feel bad D. I highly doubt liquid metal is so heat resistant that a hand torch could not melt it.









Some people would rather ignore logic and poo poo suggestions they ask for.









~Ceadder


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, Yes, I know . . . .
> 
> And there were 2 shooters in Dallas in '63, the WTC was an inside job, we never really landed on the moon, the Earth is actually flat, it's a big NASA conspiracy, vaccines cause autism, and the universe is geocentric . . .
> 
> I hope that's a mighty big rock you live under, you'll need a lot of protection when reality strikes.


Posting a straw man was bad enough. Posting pure _ad hominem_ is worse.


----------



## Sazexa

Hey everyone, still having some pump issues. Quick question:

If I have a PWM pump (PWM control, MOLEX power) and just leave the PWM header unplugged, will the pump just run at 100% all the time? EK DDC 3.2 PWM


----------



## DarthBaggins

It's supposed to default to 100-90% if the pwm control connector is not connected


----------



## becks

Quick question ?....
If I have 2x EK CoolStream SE 240 Radiators..
EK-XTOP SPC-60 PWN
EK-RES X3 110 Reservoir
EK-FB ASUS M8I Monoblock

..and 4x Noctua NF-F12 IPPC - 3000 PWN....
Why would my temperatures be worse than using my old Noctua NH-D14 Air Cooler....
Temps are as expected at idle....23-25 C....but shoot to 60-70 ish on opening a browser or watching a movie....than shoot to 90 ish as soon as I open any Game or Stress Test...
I pinned it down to the M8I Monoblock fault as I routed the Inlet and Outlet wrong according to the manual (used the top as Inlet and bottom, on top of the CPU Grille as Outlet).....or the fact that the reservoir is connected on the same side for both Inlet and Outlet...(Inlet on the side, Outlet underneath on same side of the reservoir)
But didn't had the chance to fix these 2 and retry as it was pretty late at night and now I'm stuck at work till later...

Can any of this 2 be the culprit ? or they do not make any difference performance wise ?
Fans and Pump are cranked to 100%... water flows well ....paste between monoblock and CPU is well spread (checked 3 times already)

With the air cooler I can stress test all day at around 87 C.
I7 7700K delided @ 5.1Core / 5.1 Uncore no avx offset 1.365 Bios +llc6 = 1.392 Under AVX Load OS 1.372 Normal Load OS

EDIT: It is on a test bench....no case or restricted air flow involved.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Quick question ?....
> If I have 2x EK CoolStream SE 240 Radiators..
> EK-XTOP SPC-60 PWN
> EK-RES X3 110 Reservoir
> EK-FB ASUS M8I Monoblock
> 
> ..and 4x Noctua NF-F12 IPPC - 3000 PWN....
> Why would my temperatures be worse than using my old Noctua NH-D14 Air Cooler....
> Temps are as expected at idle....23-25 C....but shoot to 60-70 ish on opening a browser or watching a movie....than shoot to 90 ish as soon as I open any Game or Stress Test...
> I pinned it down to the M8I Monoblock fault as I routed the Inlet and Outlet wrong according to the manual (used the top as Inlet and bottom, on top of the CPU Grille as Outlet).....or the fact that the reservoir is connected on the same side for both Inlet and Outlet...(Inlet on the side, Outlet underneath on same side of the reservoir)
> But didn't had the chance to fix these 2 and retry as it was pretty late at night and now I'm stuck at work till later...
> 
> Can any of this 2 be the culprit ? or they do not make any difference performance wise ?
> Fans and Pump are cranked to 100%... water flows well ....paste between monoblock and CPU is well spread (checked 3 times already)
> 
> With the air cooler I can stress test all day at around 87 C.
> I7 7700K delided @ 5.1Core / 5.1 Uncore no avx offset 1.365 Bios +llc6 = 1.392 Under AVX Load OS 1.372 Normal Load OS
> 
> EDIT: It is on a test bench....no case or restricted air flow involved.


Hard to say without water temps. Do your rads feel warm to the touch?

EKWB SE radiators are the worst on the market but 90C on a test bench seems excessively bad.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Hard to say without water temps. Do your rads feel warm to the touch?
> 
> EKWB SE radiators are the worst on the market but 90C on a test bench seems excessively bad.


Water temps are going up and down between 33-45C. Radiators are Cold

EDIT: Temps are not only going to 90+ slowly....they are spiking to 90+ in a matter of seconds..
Also it can not be blockage or air bubble in system as i have flushed the crap out of the system so much I am confident in drinking water out of the darn radiator..
Had to use those radiators as I am very limited by space in a small small case..


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Water temps are going up and down between 33-45C. Radiators are Cold
> 
> EDIT: Temps are not only going to 90+ slowly....they are spiking to 90+ in a matter of seconds..
> Also it can not be blockage or air bubble in system as i have flushed the crap out of the system so much I am confident in drinking water out of the darn radiator..
> Had to use those radiators as I am very limited by space in a small small case..


If your water is 33-45°C you have a major issue. 2x240 should be plenty if all you have is a cpu on it. How are you measuring water temp?


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> If your water is 33-45°C you have a major issue. 2x240 should be plenty if all you have is a cpu on it. How are you measuring water temp?


Hey @bluej511... I have an inline sensor (Aqua Computer Temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4)

EDIT: Yes, only the CPU is on the loop...


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Hey @bluej511... I have an inline sensor (Aqua Computer Temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4)
> 
> EDIT: Yes, only the CPU is on the loop...


Well its definitely not an installation issue since the water is reaching 45°C, if you have the inlet and outlet on the monoblock wrong then yea absolutely would get your temps awful, you're probably causing MASSIVE restriction in the cpu block.

As for the res, i have one with a D5 that screws into the bottom but I'm assuming provided your pump gets the water from above it and not below i dont think it matters which one is in and out.

I'm going to say its 100% the fact that you got the inlet and outlet wrong on the monoblock. I don't even know how you can tell it flows well since its only designed to flow one way.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Well its definitely not an installation issue since the water is reaching 45°C, if you have the inlet and outlet on the monoblock wrong then yea absolutely would get your temps awful, you're probably causing MASSIVE restriction in the cpu block.
> 
> As for the res, i have one with a D5 that screws into the bottom but I'm assuming provided your pump gets the water from above it and not below i dont think it matters which one is in and out.
> 
> I'm going to say its 100% the fact that you got the inlet and outlet wrong on the monoblock. I don't even know how you can tell it flows well since its only designed to flow one way.


Flows well as in.. i flushed the system excessively in the same configuration with monoblock...rads...reservoir...pump attached several times and I could see the water pouring...
Waiting for other suggestions as well as to have a list of things to start doing once I am back home.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Flows well as in.. i flushed the system excessively in the same configuration with monoblock...rads...reservoir...pump attached several times and I could see the water pouring...
> Waiting for other suggestions as well as to have a list of things to start doing once I am back home.


Well all you need to do is look at this.

"For the EK-FB ASUS M8I Monoblock series water block to operate properly use lower
G1/4 port and MUST BE USED AS THE INLET PORT. EK recommends the use of
EK-ACF fittings. When using fittings other than EK-ACF series please use hose clamps
or appropriate substitute to secure the tubing to the barb. The use of biocide
containing and corrosion inhibiting coolant is always recommended for any liquid
cooling system. "

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109821497.pdf


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Well all you need to do is look at this.
> 
> "For the EK-FB ASUS M8I Monoblock series water block to operate properly use lower
> G1/4 port and MUST BE USED AS THE INLET PORT. EK recommends the use of
> EK-ACF fittings. When using fittings other than EK-ACF series please use hose clamps
> or appropriate substitute to secure the tubing to the barb. The use of biocide
> containing and corrosion inhibiting coolant is always recommended for any liquid
> cooling system. "
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109821497.pdf


Yes, I saw that as well on their website as the monoblock did not had a manual with it for whatever reason but seeing water going trough.."fine" I didn't imagined it will do such a big difference.
The pump is a champ it seems







as it manages to push water trough even as it is...

If nobody suggests anything else that might be wrong I will update later once I drain everything and invert the ports.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Yes, I saw that as well on their website as the monoblock did not had a manual with it for whatever reason but seeing water going trough.."fine" I didn't imagined it will do such a big difference.
> The pump is a champ it seems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as it manages to push water trough even as it is...
> 
> If nobody suggests anything else that might be wrong I will update later once I drain everything and invert the ports.


I mean i would start with what's obviously wrong then work you're way up. 7700ks are notorious for running HOT when overclocked without deliding, but the fact that its hotter then when you had it on air is just faulty installation.

I'm using you flushed everything clean before installing as well.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Agree with bluej511 that 7700k is hot as balls at 5.1ghz even with ridiculous cooling like I have. What temps at 5.0?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Agree with bluej511 that 7700k is hot as balls at 5.1ghz even with ridiculous cooling like I have. What temps at 5.0?


Its why I'm glad i went with a ryzen 1700x, soldered chip, 8c/16t that runs the exact same temp as my 4690k on the same setup, in gaming it runs even cooler its absolutely insane.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> I mean i would start with what's obviously wrong then work you're way up. 7700ks are notorious for running HOT when overclocked without deliding, but the fact that its hotter then when you had it on air is just faulty installation.
> 
> I'm using you flushed everything clean before installing as well.


It is delided, as I said previously I flushed it so much you can drink water out of it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Agree with bluej511 that 7700k is hot as balls at 5.1ghz even with ridiculous cooling like I have. What temps at 5.0?


Rune fine under air for about 1 month, 25-27 C Idle, 80 - 86 Max after 8h AVX Stress test...
Using same paste now on WC as before on AIR, so nothing really changed on that side of the things..


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> It is delided, as I said previously I flushed it so much you can drink water out of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rune fine under air for about 1 month, 25-27 C Idle, 80 - 86 Max after 8h AVX Stress test...
> Using same paste now on WC as before on AIR, so nothing really changed on that side of the things..


Provided its delided right with liquid metal under the IHS then you're good to go. I'm betting 200% its the inlet and outlet, it may flow correctly (well without having a flow meter you can't really tell) but its not designed to function that way. It might be pushing the water up thru half of the fins and not getting enough turbulence (the greater the turbulence the more the molecules move and the move they can function, its why a highly restrictive block will cool better then one that flows freely, same for radiators but because of their size you want a mix of both)

Id start with what you did wrong and go from there, youll see improved temps for sure when its installed correctly once you get home but don't expect to drop 30°C over a D14. A single 240rad is about equal to a D14 so having 2 is double the dissipation depending on fan static pressure, ambient temp etc etc.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Its why I'm glad i went with a ryzen 1700x, soldered chip, 8c/16t that runs the exact same temp as my 4690k on the same setup, in gaming it runs even cooler its absolutely insane.


It's why I delidded and ran 5 radiators. Ryzen can't touch my temps or FPS under any circumstance.


----------



## Ceadderman

Likely the Monoblock is not getting solid Conant with the TIM. I would pull it and check the spread to see if that's the issue. May need to reapply TIM. If your loop is running cold and chip is running hot, well this is the likeliest issue that I can think of.









~Ceadder


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Likely the Monoblock is not getting solid Conant with the TIM. I would pull it and check the spread to see if that's the issue. May need to reapply TIM. If your loop is running cold and chip is running hot, well this is the likeliest issue that I can think of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Re-done the TIM 3 times already..every time it was spot on...
Will check one more time...
I have a special technique haha.. I put a generous dab of Gelid GC Extreme...heat it up with the heat gun for couple seconds than spread it with the included spatula in a thin thin layer and wipe the excess which drops off the sides
Whenever I redo it ...when i take the cooler off its spread-ed all over the IHS from corner to corner...but it is so thin...its like this:


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Likely the Monoblock is not getting solid Conant with the TIM. I would pull it and check the spread to see if that's the issue. May need to reapply TIM. If your loop is running cold and chip is running hot, well this is the likeliest issue that I can think of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You guys aren't reading lol. He has the inlet as an outlet and the outlet as an inlet. His water reaching 45°C should be an indication haha. 45°C with only a 160w load or so on 2 rads that can handle around 350w+ i dont think so.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> It's why I delidded and ran 5 radiators. Ryzen can't touch my temps or FPS under any circumstance.


avg fps i could care less about, i run an ultrawide and cap at 75hz because i run freesync. Ryzen has been proven that in most situations the min (which is far more important then max fps) is better then the 7700k

P.S. I hit like 35°C while gaming lol. If you can do that with your 5 rads under gaming that's awesome. And thats with a water temp of like 27°C


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

nm


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*


I really doubt it ...but will put it on the check list.
I just removed the air cooler...and installed the water cooler...the cpu didn't even left the motherboard socket the whole time...

EDIT:







was tipping as you where editing..that was funny


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> I really doubt it ...but will put it on the check list.
> I just removed the air cooler...and installed the water cooler...the cpu didn't even left the motherboard socket the whole time...
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was tipping as you where editing..that was funny


Yeah, I didn't catch that the block was possibly backwards, so just gave it up.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Water temps are going up and down between 33-45C. Radiators are Cold
> 
> EDIT: Temps are not only going to 90+ slowly....they are spiking to 90+ in a matter of seconds..
> Also it can not be blockage or air bubble in system as i have flushed the crap out of the system so much I am confident in drinking water out of the darn radiator..
> Had to use those radiators as I am very limited by space in a small small case..


I think people are missing the obvious or maybe it s me. But temp spikes and temps that high. Sounds to me like you are not moving any heat meaning the block is either not making contact properly or the fluid is not going through the loop properly


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Quick question ?....
> If I have 2x EK CoolStream SE 240 Radiators..
> EK-XTOP SPC-60 PWN
> EK-RES X3 110 Reservoir
> EK-FB ASUS M8I Monoblock
> 
> ..and 4x Noctua NF-F12 IPPC - 3000 PWN....
> Why would my temperatures be worse than using my old Noctua NH-D14 Air Cooler....
> Temps are as expected at idle....23-25 C....but shoot to 60-70 ish on opening a browser or watching a movie....than shoot to 90 ish as soon as I open any Game or Stress Test...
> I pinned it down to the M8I Monoblock fault as I routed the Inlet and Outlet wrong according to the manual (used the top as Inlet and bottom, on top of the CPU Grille as Outlet).....or the fact that the reservoir is connected on the same side for both Inlet and Outlet...(Inlet on the side, Outlet underneath on same side of the reservoir)
> But didn't had the chance to fix these 2 and retry as it was pretty late at night and now I'm stuck at work till later...
> 
> Can any of this 2 be the culprit ? or they do not make any difference performance wise ?
> Fans and Pump are cranked to 100%... water flows well ....paste between monoblock and CPU is well spread (checked 3 times already)
> 
> With the air cooler I can stress test all day at around 87 C.
> I7 7700K delided @ 5.1Core / 5.1 Uncore no avx offset 1.365 Bios +llc6 = 1.392 Under AVX Load OS 1.372 Normal Load OS
> 
> EDIT: It is on a test bench....no case or restricted air flow involved.


Hi there

Please have look on this

http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/gamers_report_core_i7_7700_temperature_spikes.html

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Panther Al

The madness, it begins...



I just hope a 240 Rad can handle the GPU and CPU.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> avg fps i could care less about, i run an ultrawide and cap at 75hz because i run freesync. Ryzen has been proven that in most situations the min (which is far more important then max fps) is better then the 7700k
> 
> P.S. I hit like 35°C while gaming lol. If you can do that with your 5 rads under gaming that's awesome. And thats with a water temp of like 27°C


Good Job. My GPU can't seem to break 30 C but it's an AMD Fury X so it's a little ******ed in some ways.

My goal is to get the CPU clock as high as I can under 80 C because I am an overclocker. And at this speed, Ryzen can't compete, min or max.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Double post


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I think people are missing the obvious or maybe it s me. But temp spikes and temps that high. Sounds to me like you are not moving any heat meaning the block is either not making contact properly or the fluid is not going through the loop properly


Yea we established that when he said he has the inlet and outlet switched








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Good Job. My GPU can't seem to break 30 C but it's an AMD Fury X so it's a little ******ed in some ways.
> 
> My goal is to get the CPU clock as high as I can under 80 C because I am an overclocker. And at this speed, Ryzen can't compete, min or max.


Yea obviously but clock for clock we know Ryzen wins, if it could reach 5ghz it wouldnt be a competition. I think my gpu reaches max 40°C under full load in some games, r9 390.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Likely the Monoblock is not getting solid Conant with the TIM. I would pull it and check the spread to see if that's the issue. May need to reapply TIM. If your loop is running cold and chip is running hot, well this is the likeliest issue that I can think of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-done the TIM 3 times already..every time it was spot on...
> Will check one more time...
> I have a special technique haha.. I put a generous dab of Gelid GC Extreme...heat it up with the heat gun for couple seconds than spread it with the included spatula in a thin thin layer and wipe the excess which drops off the sides
> Whenever I redo it ...when i take the cooler off its spread-ed all over the IHS from corner to corner...but it is so thin...its like this:
Click to expand...

I would suggest boiling water in a pot. Then when it reaches boiling point, turn off the water and drop your favorite TIM flavor in a zip lock seal it up with no air in the baggie and drop it into the pot. Takes a minute or so and the TIM will emerge ready to spread in whatever fashion you wish. Your heat gun trick is pretty cool, but this is the trick I have relied on since I started building systems back in the early 90s.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Likely the Monoblock is not getting solid Conant with the TIM. I would pull it and check the spread to see if that's the issue. May need to reapply TIM. If your loop is running cold and chip is running hot, well this is the likeliest issue that I can think of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You guys aren't reading lol. He has the inlet as an outlet and the outlet as an inlet. His water reaching 45°C should be an indication haha. 45°C with only a 160w load or so on 2 rads that can handle around 350w+ i dont think so.
Click to expand...

Was gonna say something a lot earlier than I did but I work early mornings during the weekdays. So I left the page up on my mobile so I could make a suggestion. Apologies for being late to the party. But punching the clock at 4am means I hit the sack round 6 or 7.









~Ceadder


----------



## paskowitz

This is the ONLY reason I sometimes use liquid metal TIM on my IHS. I have found it to be far more consistent and easier to control the proper amount (assuming you know what that is).


----------



## becks

Reporting back....re-done the whole system....twice!...used over 3m of tube so far...switched the inlet and outlet as / manual....re-done TIM twice...even used LM (thermal grizzly conductonaut) and its still preaty much the same..
If water temp sensor is not bad...the water temp never goes over 26 C now....but the temps are still jumping straight to 85-95 the second I press the Start stress button on RB...
I will make a video later on if i still have hair on my head...
Even, just sitting in BIOS my CPU temp readings are 37-45 C....
Starting to think its the Motherboard Block ?!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Reporting back....re-done the whole system....twice!...used over 3m of tube so far...switched the inlet and outlet as / manual....re-done TIM twice...even used LM (thermal grizzly conductonaut) and its still preaty much the same..
> If water temp sensor is not bad...the water temp never goes over 26 C now....but the temps are still jumping straight to 85-95 the second I press the Start stress button on RB...
> I will make a video later on if i still have hair on my head...
> Even, just sitting in BIOS my CPU temp readings are 37-45 C....
> Starting to think its the Motherboard Block ?!


Pump?

TCO


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Pump?
> 
> TCO


Pump at 2650 RPM making little whirlpools in the Reservoir







so I doubt it...even if its not working 100% or it might be something wrong with it as I have no flow meter in the system its still gives a good punch visually...


----------



## becks

I will leave this here...
Movie and pictures...


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Reporting back....re-done the whole system....twice!...used over 3m of tube so far...switched the inlet and outlet as / manual....re-done TIM twice...even used LM (thermal grizzly conductonaut) and its still preaty much the same..
> If water temp sensor is not bad...the water temp never goes over 26 C now....but the temps are still jumping straight to 85-95 the second I press the Start stress button on RB...
> I will make a video later on if i still have hair on my head...
> Even, just sitting in BIOS my CPU temp readings are 37-45 C....
> Starting to think its the Motherboard Block ?!


Did you perform the delid, or did someone else? I know you stated you have not removed the cpu from the socket since you had the air cooler on, but it could be poor contact between the die and the IHS.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> I will leave this here...
> Movie and pictures...


I haven't watched but the fact that the water temp stays at 26°C is a good sign, shouldn't jump around too much with only a CPU and 2 rads. So now if the CPU is getting crazy high on water but it wasn't on air there's probably something with either the monoblock pressure or the monoblock itself (not very likely but happens)

They do run very hot though especially with that voltage. What does it run in gaming for temps? Realbench is a stress test its meant to get the CPU hot.


----------



## fakeblood

EK galore in my 570X

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04652_zpsl6edudxp.png.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04665_zpstixeelp6.png.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04657_zps5xaavdl4.png.html


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Did you perform the delid, or did someone else? I know you stated you have not removed the cpu from the socket since you had the air cooler on, but it could be poor contact between the die and the IHS.


If I take the water block out, and install the air cooler (Noctua NH-D14) temps are going normal...so I do expect them to go up, but they go up in a "normal" way...meaning that it slowly goes up and after a 8H stress test I have a max recorded of 83-86 C.
I did the delid, thermal grizzly conductonaut between Dye and IHS.
Its been working perfetly fine on AIR for a month...just removed air cooler to switch to water being sure I will be able to nail down the temps and push further the OC...
The same OC profile I used on AIR is now on water....nothing changed...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> I haven't watched but the fact that the water temp stays at 26°C is a good sign, shouldn't jump around too much with only a CPU and 2 rads. So now if the CPU is getting crazy high on water but it wasn't on air there's probably something with either the monoblock pressure or the monoblock itself (not very likely but happens)
> 
> They do run very hot though especially with that voltage. What does it run in gaming for temps? Realbench is a stress test its meant to get the CPU hot.


As I said I am starting to think its the monoblock itself...will try and re paste it again and use a generous amount of tim....maybe its not touching the IHS right and its hovering on top of it or something...
I am out of ideas...


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> EK galore in my 570X
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04652_zpsl6edudxp.png.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04665_zpstixeelp6.png.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04657_zps5xaavdl4.png.html


Very nice, clean build...Congratulations there








To bad my build constantly faces some darn mystery problems nobody can fix and I have to push the deadline further and further...


----------



## becks

And... *FOUND IT!* finally found it!!
Didn't had time to test everything....but as a first impression, it is the monoblock...
I had a feeling the block was not sitting properly on the CPU so I investigated further...
And removed the plastic washers circled in red in the picture so I gain couple of mills to play:


Than I gently positioned the block on the CPU ( Still using LM) and really carefully tightened the 4 screws ( the block legs...where I took the washers off are are really sharp and not finished as they are supposed to have a plastic washer there and not be run naked but I took the risk...and scratched the f***k out of the MB in the process )
And ....voila, temps are mid 70's max...on a quick run...
But still as it is I think the block is "deformed" ...as in it touches the CPU only on a corner...

As I had to build this PC in time...and was not expecting this to happen now I am out of the return window so no chance in returning & exchanging the radiators and block







so money trow out of the window...
Really disappointed and stressed about what to do next...

Will try and save some more during the next months and slowly order new parts and just dump this ones or donate them...
Highly disappointed..

Will write later updates when I get back home and test some more, as it is I have to try and reinstall bios, some fans are not recognized anymore, have to reinstall OS as it got screwed after so many blue screens due to temp...and the list goes on and on and on...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> And... *FOUND IT!* finally found it!!
> Didn't had time to test everything....but as a first impression, it is the monoblock...
> I had a feeling the block was not sitting properly on the CPU so I investigated further...
> And removed the plastic washers circled in red in the picture so I gain couple of mills to play:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Than I gently positioned the block on the CPU ( Still using LM) and really carefully tightened the 4 screws ( the block legs...where I took the washers off are are really sharp and not finished as they are supposed to have a plastic washer there and not be run naked but I took the risk...and scratched the f***k out of the MB in the process )
> And ....voila, temps are mid 70's max...on a quick run...
> But still as it is I think the block is "deformed" ...as in it touches the CPU only on a corner...
> 
> As I had to build this PC in time...and was not expecting this to happen now I am out of the return window so no chance in returning & exchanging the radiators and block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so money trow out of the window...
> Really disappointed and stressed about what to do next...
> 
> Will try and save some more during the next months and slowly order new parts and just dump this ones or donate them...
> Highly disappointed..
> 
> Will write later updates when I get back home and test some more, as it is I have to try and reinstall bios, some fans are not recognized anymore, have to reinstall OS as it got screwed after so many blue screens due to temp...and the list goes on and on and on...


Did you try to put the plastic washers back on the posts and not secure the 2 screws on the daughter board part instead?

BTW, your monoblock is still under the 2 years warranty. You might be out of the return window but you're still covered.

Also, it's not related but, don't forget to remove the protective film on the EK anti-cyclone in the reservoir. It looks like it still on. Unless it's a visual distorsion.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Did you try to put the plastic washers back on the posts and not secure the 2 screws on the daughter board part instead?
> 
> BTW, your monoblock is still under the 2 years warranty. You might be out of the return window but you're still covered.
> 
> Also, it's not related but, don't forget to remove the protective film on the EK anti-cyclone in the reservoir. It looks like it still on. Unless it's a visual distorsion.


Tried that and had same result as before...really bad, spiking temps

The foil in reservoir is visual distortion, used the phone camera..
Trying to contact the shop I bought the parts from now and see how we can help each other...I know they are really into having happy customers.
If they are really nice to me maybe I will get with a radiator exchange as well...fingers crossed.

They are not offering any step up / upgrade program so the radiators are going to the recycling plant.. (might donate them but not sure where / how)
Will test the monoblock some more when I get home and see if its a RMA or something else..

If water temp is 26...but CPU temp is 75...are better radiators the solution ? or the problem is the monoblock not dissipating heat to the radiators fast enough ?
If I see water going to 40's I know its the radiators not coping ...but as it is now with water at 25-26 what is the issue ?
Scrap the crossed part...just delved myself into Delta 1:1 intensive course and found my answers


----------



## becks

Update.

If water temps...at idle or after 30 min stress test are the same...(26 C) and assuming the water sensor is not f**ed up somehow as well... I am right in assuming heat is not dissipating properly from CPU block ?!
Can it be that the fins in the block are some how clogged ? and I need to open the block to clean it ?...

ALSO you think its better to mount water sensor on the Outlet of the CPU block or the Inlet of the radiator ?


----------



## Daddyjaxx66

There should only be a 1 to 2c difference between the coolest and warmest part of the loop. The water is moving so fast its not in the blocks very long.


----------



## Ceadderman

So much for my being wrong on the TIM front. Yeah the route was wrong but then a cooling plate not making clean contact with the TIM will always be the worst problem one can have.









Happy you got it figured out becks. Sorry to hear it started a new problem for you. :/

~Ceadder


----------



## Vlada011

I would like to know when EKWB plan to show up new MLC AIO System.
And very important thing is what they plan, to offer completely closed AIO System or expandable as Predator and Swiftec H220 X2?
It would be very nice if they decide to build expandable system with Supremacy EVO Acetal + Nickel.

I was very dissapointed when someone warn me that ASUS maybe use aluminum instead copper for building GTX1080Ti Poseidon.
EKWB MLC + ASUS GTX1080Ti Poseidon was easiest and cheapest watercooling loop and temps are effective for any hard overclocking, only not extreme overclocking.


----------



## HaykOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> I would like to know when EKWB plan to show up new MLC AIO System.
> And very important thing is what they plan, to offer completely closed AIO System or expandable as Predator and Swiftec H220 X2?
> It would be very nice if they decide to build expandable system with Supremacy EVO Acetal + Nickel.
> 
> I was very dissapointed when someone warn me that ASUS maybe use aluminum instead copper for building GTX1080Ti Poseidon.
> EKWB MLC + ASUS GTX1080Ti Poseidon was easiest and cheapest watercooling loop and temps are effective for any hard overclocking, only not extreme overclocking.


From what Ive seen Akira say release date is sometime Q3 2017 (id guess late Q3). And then the term "modular" would pretty strongly imply its expandable.

If the MLC isnt expandable we riot.


----------



## Vlada011

That mean they move launch date, because first on their site I saw Spring 2017.


----------



## motor sw

Can I join? Rebuilt my old loop









All EK bits except the fans, those are Corsair ML´s.





One question to the EK reps, did EK discontinue the pastel coolants? I only can find the new cyofuel´s in the webshop.


----------



## becks

*Should I expect any Temp improvement if I change the Monoblock with a Supremacy Evo CPU only block ? or are they pretty similar ? saw some contradictory data on benchmarks...*

As it is the Monoblock for my M8I has to go back unfortunately...

The block only touches the CPU on the left side (even with no spacers)
If i put the spacers on the block sits 0.08 mm over the cpu (It sits to high and hovers over CPU not touching it)
With no Spacers I can get "acceptable" performance out of it (less than my air NH-D14 cooler) but I can't mount the raiser card cooling plate anymore...
I already have what it seems to be corrosion in the block...even if I rune it just a couple of days...
The little fins inside the block don't seem very well either...

Even if I have 2 year warranty + leak warranty I do not feel OK about taking it apart and cleaning the inside and losing the leak warranty as it is...I paid for that too you know ?! and I am expecting it to last me at least 8-12 months till I do the first maintenance...

Can add pictures if you want @akira749 but I don't feel like its needed anymore...I rest my case


----------



## NeoConker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> *Should I expect any Temp improvement if I change the Monoblock with a Supremacy Evo CPU only block ? or are they pretty similar ? saw some contradictory data on benchmarks...*


Yep, monoblocks results always be worse...

VRMs are by far the hottest components of a computer, they are design and made to operate up to 125°C / 257°F, now you throwing all that heat together with CPU heat to dissipate in the same cooling loop.

High-end MBs uses a very efficient VRMs designs plus high quality components to avoid instability, high temps to achieve better OC and they already have enough cooling using the heatsinks

Monoblocks are more aesthetics than high performance solution.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well the price is right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But lack of Acetal, or a Copper variant is a touch disappointing. Looks like I will have to break the warranty and strip the Nickel plating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Do you know a good stripper?









I'm looking for an easy way to strip the nickel plating off a CPU block top. I was thinking about doing it manually, but the inside would be tedious not to mention the details on the exterior.

I found one product that claims to get it done, but I'd rather not spend 30$+ to strip a 17$ block top

http://www.caswellplating.com/metalx-b-929-nickel-stripper-2-5lb.html
worst case scenario I have some for future stripping needs

Unless someone knows a way to get this top without the Ni plating
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-top-ms-supremacy-evo-full-copper-ni.html#Details


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoConker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> *Should I expect any Temp improvement if I change the Monoblock with a Supremacy Evo CPU only block ? or are they pretty similar ? saw some contradictory data on benchmarks...*
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, monoblocks results always be worse...
> 
> VRMs are by far the hottest components of a computer, they are design and made to operate up to 125°C / 257°F, *now you throwing all that heat together with CPU heat to dissipate in the same cooling loop.
> 
> *High-end MBs uses a very efficient VRMs designs plus high quality components to avoid instability, high temps to achieve better OC and they already have enough cooling using the heatsinks
> 
> Monoblocks are more aesthetics than high performance solution.
Click to expand...

That's just farking bollox . . .

With a 1gpm flow rate, it take 264 watts of power to raise the water temp by 1*C.

Water cooling the VRMs can't add more than a tenth or two of a degree or so to the coolant temp, while it keeps the VRMs much cooler than if left with just the heatsinks.

If you did 10 mounts with a supremacy, and 10 mounts with a monoblock and averaged the temp results for each with the same ambients, configuration, and benchmarks, the difference would be virtually within the margin of error.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nvm.









~Ceadder


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoConker*
> 
> Yep, monoblocks results always be worse...
> 
> VRMs are by far the hottest components of a computer, they are design and made to operate up to 125°C / 257°F, now you throwing all that heat together with CPU heat to dissipate in the same cooling loop.
> 
> High-end MBs uses a very efficient VRMs designs plus high quality components to avoid instability, high temps to achieve better OC and they already have enough cooling using the heatsinks
> 
> Monoblocks are more aesthetics than high performance solution.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That's just farking bollox . . .
> 
> With a 1gpm flow rate, it take 264 watts of power to raise the water temp by 1*C.
> 
> Water cooling the VRMs can't add more than a tenth or two of a degree or so to the coolant temp, while it keeps the VRMs much cooler than if left with just the heatsinks.
> 
> If you did 10 mounts with a supremacy, and 10 mounts with a monoblock and averaged the temp results for each with the same ambients, configuration, and benchmarks, the difference would be virtually within the margin of error.


I think I have to re-sentence what I said...
Even as it is now..with a defective monoblock...water temp under heavy stress load never goes more than 4 degrees over ambient (that's where it stabilizes) the question is...will a cpu block be able to dissipate the temperature faster ?..I don't mind seeing a delta of 10-12 as long as the heat is taken away from the CPU, and it is not taken efficiently as it is now.
Chokes and VRM never go over 60 Celsius..so that's not a problem, even with the passive heat-sink

If I keep the processor at 92-95 degrees for 40 mins ...water stabilizes at 27 Celsius with 24 ambient and fans at 1000 RPM
If it would be *more* efficient I would like to see a water temp of 30-32 in same scenario with fans at 3000 RPM and CPU at 75-80.....


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> That mean they move launch date, because first on their site I saw Spring 2017.


Yes we had to delay the release to Q3 of 2017.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motor sw*
> 
> Can I join? Rebuilt my old loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All EK bits except the fans, those are Corsair ML´s.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One question to the EK reps, did EK discontinue the pastel coolants? I only can find the new cyofuel´s in the webshop.


We don't sell the Pastel Line anymore. You'll have to go with Mayhems for it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> *Should I expect any Temp improvement if I change the Monoblock with a Supremacy Evo CPU only block ? or are they pretty similar ? saw some contradictory data on benchmarks...*
> 
> As it is the Monoblock for my M8I has to go back unfortunately...
> 
> The block only touches the CPU on the left side (even with no spacers)
> If i put the spacers on the block sits 0.08 mm over the cpu (It sits to high and hovers over CPU not touching it)
> With no Spacers I can get "acceptable" performance out of it (less than my air NH-D14 cooler) but I can't mount the raiser card cooling plate anymore...
> I already have what it seems to be corrosion in the block...even if I rune it just a couple of days...
> The little fins inside the block don't seem very well either...
> 
> Even if I have 2 year warranty + leak warranty I do not feel OK about taking it apart and cleaning the inside and losing the leak warranty as it is...I paid for that too you know ?! and I am expecting it to last me at least 8-12 months till I do the first maintenance...
> 
> Can add pictures if you want @akira749 but I don't feel like its needed anymore...I rest my case


You'll have to start an RMA with your reseller than.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You'll have to start an RMA with your reseller than.


Allready did and for the record I will still go with EK for everything water related, faults happen...

Going back on the wright track it seems...

Will post later this week some results Bad Mono** vs Sup Evo* Block and see if I can help someone in deciding what to pick if their after every single and last degree Celsius improvement...

(On a side note....I only need 22 more reps till I can sell some cheap / nice things in here so hit the Rep button







)


----------



## Caos

Hi. I join the EL Club .. this is my first watercooling. Opinions ?. Thank you


----------



## motor sw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We don't sell the Pastel Line anymore. You'll have to go with Mayhems for it.


Ok, thank you


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Hi. I join the EL Club .. this is my first watercooling. Opinions ?. Thank you


*Read the manual....*
Read the manual....
Read the manual.....

Check...and Triple check you got the orientation and Inlet / Outlet right...
Don't but ...*.Don't use vinegar* with nickel plating!
Flush the system under hot water....for a prolongued period of time..
If you don't have any "special" liquid for the cooling ( the ones with anti corrosive etc etc elements) use distilled water (the ones for Car radiators or Irons ...) but *Only for short periods of time*.

Check this: How to clean water blocks
and This: Guides


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> *Read the manual....*
> Read the manual....
> Read the manual.....
> 
> Check...and Triple check you got the orientation and Inlet / Outlet right...
> Don't but ...*.Don't use vinegar* with nickel plating!
> Flush the system under hot water....for a prolongued period of time..
> If you don't have any "special" liquid for the cooling ( the ones with anti corrosive etc etc elements) use distilled water (the ones for Car radiators or Irons ...) but *Only for short periods of time*.
> 
> Check this: How to clean water blocks
> and This: Guides


Thanks, but I wanted to show photos, read the manual,


----------



## becks

All good from what i can tel..
One thing...its worth taking the CPU block off and make sure the TIM spread is alright and re-apply after, and make sure it is not hitting those capacitors near the CPU socket..on some MB they sit on them, or hit them...and don't make perfect contact with the CPU.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> All good from what i can tel..
> One thing...its worth taking the CPU block off and make sure the TIM spread is alright and re-apply after, and make sure it is not hitting those capacitors near the CPU socket..on some MB they sit on them, or hit them...and don't make perfect contact with the CPU.


Ok thanks, I'll follow your advice. Another doubt how long I have to try if it has no leaks? I read the manual and it says 24 hours, I already tried it 19 hours.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Ok thanks, I'll follow your advice. Another doubt how long I have to try if it has no leaks? I read the manual and it says 24 hours, I already tried it 19 hours.


24h is in safe margins of error...
but as a general rule whenever you modify or carry repairs to your system do the test again for like 40-120 mins and check nothing has moved..

24h is a bit overkill just for the "leaking test" part but usually it is good to run it as suggested for 24 H to get the air out as well..
Make sure to shake your system very well or, if possible position your case on a side...than on the back...than top down and alternate like every 1-2h so you get all air out of the radiators and cpu block insert.

Air in system is really bad for the performance.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> 24h is in safe margins of error...
> but as a general rule whenever you modify or carry repairs to your system do the test again for like 40-120 mins and check nothing has moved..
> 
> 24h is a bit overkill just for the "leaking test" part but usually it is good to run it as suggested for 24 H to get the air out as well..
> Make sure to shake your system very well or, if possible position your case on a side...than on the back...than top down and alternate like every 1-2h so you get all air out of the radiators and cpu block insert.
> 
> Air in system is really bad for the performance.


Okay, I'll do that. The reservoir I have to fill up to the top? In the manual it says 2 cm before the edge


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Okay, I'll do that. The reservoir I have to fill up to the top? In the manual it says 2 cm before the edge


There's not a general rule about it ...for me personally, I fill it up just over the Anti cyclone (2-3 mm over that) so that I can see the water moving when the pump is at max.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> There's not a general rule about it ...for me personally, I fill it up just over the Anti cyclone (2-3 mm over that) so that I can see the water moving when the pump is at max.


Ok, I added a little more liquid then.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Ok, I added a little more liquid then.


Liquid level goes down in time, and if you shake the case or turn it around and any air goes out to the reservoir it will go down (the level) even more..so keep an eye on that


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That's just farking bollox . . .
> 
> With a 1gpm flow rate, it take 264 watts of power to raise the water temp by 1*C.
> 
> Water cooling the VRMs can't add more than a tenth or two of a degree or so to the coolant temp, while it keeps the VRMs much cooler than if left with just the heatsinks.
> 
> If you did 10 mounts with a supremacy, and 10 mounts with a monoblock and averaged the temp results for each with the same ambients, configuration, and benchmarks, the difference would be virtually within the margin of error.


do _you_ use monoblocks or CPU blocks ?

it's hard to make up an opinion on this, as I have probably read 33% comments saying it's necessary, 33% comments saying it's useless, and 33% comments saying it's harmful.
While I would trust your reasonning on it being non harmful, who is right ?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NeoConker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> *Should I expect any Temp improvement if I change the Monoblock with a Supremacy Evo CPU only block ? or are they pretty similar ? saw some contradictory data on benchmarks...*
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, monoblocks results always be worse...
> 
> VRMs are by far the hottest components of a computer, they are design and made to operate up to 125°C / 257°F, *now you throwing all that heat together with CPU heat to dissipate in the same cooling loop.
> 
> *High-end MBs uses a very efficient VRMs designs plus high quality components to avoid instability, high temps to achieve better OC and they already have enough cooling using the heatsinks
> 
> Monoblocks are more aesthetics than high performance solution.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's just farking bollox . . .
> 
> With a 1gpm flow rate, it take 264 watts of power to raise the water temp by 1*C.
> 
> Water cooling the VRMs can't add more than a tenth or two of a degree or so to the coolant temp, while it keeps the VRMs much cooler than if left with just the heatsinks.
> 
> If you did 10 mounts with a supremacy, and 10 mounts with a monoblock and averaged the temp results for each with the same ambients, configuration, and benchmarks, the difference would be virtually within the margin of error.
Click to expand...

absolutely correct, VRMs are easy to cool. they are designed for high ambient. this has nothing to do with heat generation.... cpu cores are far harder to cool .... smaller and due to this harder to remove heat from ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That's just farking bollox . . .
> 
> With a 1gpm flow rate, it take 264 watts of power to raise the water temp by 1*C.
> 
> Water cooling the VRMs can't add more than a tenth or two of a degree or so to the coolant temp, while it keeps the VRMs much cooler than if left with just the heatsinks.
> 
> If you did 10 mounts with a supremacy, and 10 mounts with a monoblock and averaged the temp results for each with the same ambients, configuration, and benchmarks, the difference would be virtually within the margin of error.
> 
> 
> 
> do _you_ use monoblocks or CPU blocks ?
> 
> it's hard to make up an opinion on this, as I have probably read 33% comments saying it's necessary, 33% comments saying it's useless, and 33% comments saying it's harmful.
> While I would trust your reasonning on it being non harmful, who is right ?
Click to expand...

i am sorry i dont understand what you are asking, are you stating diva does not know how much heat is produced? or are you arguing that monoblocks are not as good ?

monoblocks use the same if not better micro channels as the retail blocks of the time of release. they should be close with the exceptions or differences being the fact imo you can not account for board defects ( higher/lower portions ) with a monoblock, and one of the reasons i prefer board blocks


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> absolutely correct, VRMs are easy to cool. they are designed for high ambient. this has nothing to do with heat generation.... cpu cores are far harder to cool .... smaller and due to this harder to remove heat from ...
> i am sorry i dont understand what you are asking, are you stating diva does not know how much heat is produced? or are you arguing that monoblocks are not as good ?
> 
> monoblocks use the same if not better micro channels as the retail blocks of the time of release. they should be close with the exceptions or differences being the fact imo you can not account for board defects ( higher/lower portions ) with a monoblock, and one of the reasons i prefer board blocks


Just because a VRM is designed to run at 125°C does not mean it will. They don't even produce much wattage that needs cooling anyways. Obviously the higher you overclock the higher the voltage and amps and so on and the hotter they get.

My new Crosshair VI VRMs only reach like 50°C when stress testing (so pretty much only when stability testing) and when gaming 41°C or so with an ambient of 22°C, i could cool em on water but then what, they'll run at 30 something degrees? Won't improve anything or make em last any longer. If i was a crazy high overclocker or had poor case flow then yea it would help, but for most people? Not needed.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> absolutely correct, VRMs are easy to cool. they are designed for high ambient. this has nothing to do with heat generation.... cpu cores are far harder to cool .... smaller and due to this harder to remove heat from ...
> i am sorry i dont understand what you are asking, are you stating diva does not know how much heat is produced? or are you arguing that monoblocks are not as good ?
> 
> monoblocks use the same if not better micro channels as the retail blocks of the time of release. they should be close with the exceptions or differences being the fact imo you can not account for board defects ( higher/lower portions ) with a monoblock, and one of the reasons i prefer board blocks


Wait what? It was a genuine question, as everybody seems to have a different opinion, so I asked :
- what Diva herself used (what people use is a good indication of what they believe is efficient / useful)
- since I read about as many posts arguing it's useful / neutral / useless, and as I believe Diva's explanation that it cannot be harmless, that still leaves 2 options : effective, or neutral/useless. Which is true?

Case in point : reading this page alone will give you a sample of about every possible opinion on the topic. When, like me, you have no prior experience, it's impossible to figure out what is right or not as people are super assertive


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That's just farking bollox . . .
> 
> With a 1gpm flow rate, it take 264 watts of power to raise the water temp by 1*C.
> 
> Water cooling the VRMs can't add more than a tenth or two of a degree or so to the coolant temp, while it keeps the VRMs much cooler than if left with just the heatsinks.
> 
> If you did 10 mounts with a supremacy, and 10 mounts with a monoblock and averaged the temp results for each with the same ambients, configuration, and benchmarks, the difference would be virtually within the margin of error.
> 
> 
> 
> *do you use monoblocks or CPU blocks ?
> *
> it's hard to make up an opinion on this, as I have probably read 33% comments saying it's necessary, 33% comments saying it's useless, and 33% comments saying it's harmful.
> While I would trust your reasonning on it being non harmful, who is right ?
Click to expand...

I use monoblocks where ever I can, just makes plumbing soooo much easier.

I also use almost exclusively top tier boards, so there's rarely a mobo in a Diva build that I can't get a monoblock for.

As mentioned, the monoblock has the exact same CPU portion as the CPU stand alone block, and as I pointed out, the VRM adds but a virtually negligible amount of heat.

Wherever possible, I prefer to water cool the VRM, as even though they are designed to tolerate higher temps, I like having a wider cushion of stability and enhanced reliability.

All of which I guess seems to make sense if you want to have the best odds of getting the max out of a mobo that cost top dollar.

The caveat here, is that you install the monoblock properly, and that it's designed especially for your mobo.

I've seen where someone put the thicker thermo pads where the thin ones should have gone on the VRM, and it kept the CPU cold plate from seating properly on the CPU and causing temp issues.

There's always multiple ways to get it wrong, but only one way to get it right . . .

Darlene


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I use monoblocks where ever I can, just makes plumbing soooo much easier.
> 
> I also use almost exclusively top tier boards, so there's rarely a mobo in a Diva build that I can't get a monoblock for.
> 
> As mentioned, the monoblock has the exact same CPU portion as the CPU stand alone block, and as I pointed out, the VRM adds but a virtually negligible amount of heat.
> 
> Wherever possible, I prefer to water cool the VRM, as even though they are designed to tolerate higher temps, I like having a wider cushion of stability and enhanced reliability.
> 
> All of which I guess seems to make sense if you want to have the best odds of getting the max out of a mobo that cost top dollar.
> 
> The caveat here, is that you install the monoblock properly, and that it's designed especially for your mobo.
> 
> I've seen where someone put the thicker thermo pads where the thin ones should have gone on the VRM, and it kept the CPU cold plate from seating properly on the CPU and causing temp issues.
> 
> There's always multiple ways to get it wrong, but only one way to get it right . . .
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for the clear explanation.

I went with an X99-Deluxe II, which seems supported by the EK-FB ASUS X99 Monoblock.
For CPU I went with a 6900K, which I would like to OC to 4.0 / 4.2, so not up to the max which seems around 4.4 if I got this right. The extra 200mHz seem to require a lot more juice, so it's well possible I won't need it. But I would really like to secure a stable 4.2, that would be nice.


----------



## Mega Man

ill just take apart your quote and address it in pieces.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> absolutely correct, VRMs are easy to cool. they are designed for high ambient. this has nothing to do with heat generation.... cpu cores are far harder to cool .... smaller and due to this harder to remove heat from ...
> i am sorry i dont understand what you are asking, are you stating diva does not know how much heat is produced? or are you arguing that monoblocks are not as good ?
> 
> monoblocks use the same if not better micro channels as the retail blocks of the time of release. they should be close with the exceptions or differences being the fact imo you can not account for board defects ( higher/lower portions ) with a monoblock, and one of the reasons i prefer board blocks
> 
> 
> 
> Just because a VRM is designed to run at 125°C does not mean it will.
Click to expand...

this does not make since, first, check an am3 mobo, if under load. they WILL get hot. and depending on mobos even that hot ( 100+c ) due to poor design... that said. more importantly the components of a VRM are not designed for what we use them for ( pc motherboard ) but generic parts that do get used in things that will and can get that hot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> They don't even produce much wattage that needs cooling anyways.


ok, so you agree with my statement ? ( i would add in our usage, for the most part )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Obviously the higher you overclock the higher the voltage and amps and so on and the hotter they get.


you forget the colder they are, the more the power output is clean, ( less ripple,spike, ect,ect )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> My new Crosshair VI VRMs only reach like 50°C when stress testing (so pretty much only when stability testing) and when gaming 41°C or so with an ambient of 22°C, i could cool em on water but then what, they'll run at 30 something degrees?


yes, and it would benefit them, they colder they are the longer they last, and as stated above, a cleaner power output
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Won't improve anything or *make em last any longer*.


not true you could argue that they will already outlast the usefulness of the mother board, however.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> If i was a crazy high overclocker or had poor case flow then yea it would help, but for most people? Not needed.


i would agree. but that is not why we are talking.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I use monoblocks where ever I can, just makes plumbing soooo much easier.
> 
> I also use almost exclusively top tier boards, so there's rarely a mobo in a Diva build that I can't get a monoblock for.
> 
> As mentioned, the monoblock has the exact same CPU portion as the CPU stand alone block, and as I pointed out, the VRM adds but a virtually negligible amount of heat.
> 
> Wherever possible, I prefer to water cool the VRM, as even though they are designed to tolerate higher temps, I like having a wider cushion of stability and enhanced reliability.
> 
> All of which I guess seems to make sense if you want to have the best odds of getting the max out of a mobo that cost top dollar.
> 
> The caveat here, is that you install the monoblock properly, and that it's designed especially for your mobo.
> 
> I've seen where someone put the thicker thermo pads where the thin ones should have gone on the VRM, and it kept the CPU cold plate from seating properly on the CPU and causing temp issues.
> 
> There's always multiple ways to get it wrong, but only one way to get it right . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the clear explanation.
> 
> I went with an X99-Deluxe II, which seems supported by the EK-FB ASUS X99 Monoblock.
> For CPU I went with a 6900K, which I would like to OC to 4.0 / 4.2, so not up to the max which seems around 4.4 if I got this right. The extra 200mHz seem to require a lot more juice, so it's well possible I won't need it. But I would really like to secure a stable 4.2, that would be nice.
Click to expand...

as was mine a genuine question i was just not understanding you


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> as was mine a genuine question i was just not understanding you


Apologies, I'm not a native speaker


----------



## Mega Man

i figured which is why i wanted to clarify for you.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ill just take apart your quote and address it in pieces.
> this does not make since, first, check an am3 mobo, if under load. they WILL get hot. and depending on mobos even that hot ( 100+c ) due to poor design... that said. more importantly the components of a VRM are not designed for what we use them for ( pc motherboard ) but generic parts that do get used in things that will and can get that hot.
> ok, so you agree with my statement ? ( i would add in our usage, for the most part )
> you forget the colder they are, the more the power output is clean, ( less ripple,spike, ect,ect )
> yes, and it would benefit them, they colder they are the longer they last, and as stated above, a cleaner power output
> not true you could argue that they will already outlast the usefulness of the mother board, however.
> i would agree. but that is not why we are talking.
> as was mine a genuine question i was just not understanding you


I dont think an extra 5°C cooler will make it any cleaner or last longer haha.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ill just take apart your quote and address it in pieces.
> this does not make since, first, check an am3 mobo, if under load. they WILL get hot. and depending on mobos even that hot ( 100+c ) due to poor design... that said. more importantly the components of a VRM are not designed for what we use them for ( pc motherboard ) but generic parts that do get used in things that will and can get that hot.
> ok, so you agree with my statement ? ( i would add in our usage, for the most part )
> you forget the colder they are, the more the power output is clean, ( less ripple,spike, ect,ect )
> yes, and it would benefit them, they colder they are the longer they last, and as stated above, a cleaner power output
> not true you could argue that they will already outlast the usefulness of the mother board, however.
> i would agree. but that is not why we are talking.
> as was mine a genuine question i was just not understanding you
> 
> 
> 
> I dont think an extra 5°C cooler will make it any cleaner or last longer haha.
Click to expand...

ok, so which is it 5c, 10c or 20c....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> My new Crosshair VI VRMs only reach like 50°C when stress testing (so pretty much only when stability testing) and when gaming 41°C or so with an ambient of 22°C, i could cool em on water but then what, they'll run at 30 something degrees?


yes, and it would benefit them, they colder they are the longer they last, and as stated above, a cleaner power output

but regardless what you think is irrelevant, it is a proven fact the cooler they run the longer life they have/more efficient/ and /or better quality output

while i dont remember where i found it, there is a direct link between power quality/efficiency, lifespan, and temp of various parts of vrms....

feel free to read yourself. here is one of many links....
https://www.google.com/search?q=MOSFETs&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=MOSFETs+relation+to+temperature+and+lifespan

again, the best argument you have is it wont make an impact in pcs in usability -- however when you are pushing your pc to extremes, every little bit helps

ill end it with an ek quote
Quote:


> MOSFETs, or Metal-Oxyd Semiconductor Field Effect Transistors, are basically tiny switches. MOSFETs are governed by a high-frequency signal that comes from the PWM unit. In a nutshell, MOSFETs turn on and off rapidly, passing trough high current in short pulses. By combining these pulses in more VRM phases, the current for the CPU/GPU will be more smooth and stable. We also talked about MOSFET efficiency earlier. The higher the current, the hotter the MOSFET gets. If it gets hot, it affects the resistance of the semiconductor, the efficiency drops and from there it's a never ending loop that will only generate more heat.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ok, so which is it 5c, 10c or 20c....
> yes, and it would benefit them, they colder they are the longer they last, and as stated above, a cleaner power output
> 
> but regardless what you think is irrelevant, it is a proven fact the cooler they run the longer life they have/more efficient/ and /or better quality output
> 
> while i dont remember where i found it, there is a direct link between power quality/efficiency, lifespan, and temp of various parts of vrms....
> 
> feel free to read yourself. here is one of many links....
> https://www.google.com/search?q=MOSFETs&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=MOSFETs+relation+to+temperature+and+lifespan
> 
> again, the best argument you have is it wont make an impact in pcs in usability -- however when you are pushing your pc to extremes, every little bit helps
> 
> ill end it with an ek quote


Water temp of 29°C wouldn't drop my VRM of 41°C that much lower, hence why, as I said, in my case its pointless. Ill run it at 36°C instead of 41°C. Big woop, how much cleaner is 5°C gonna get me or how much longer is it going to last considering most people replace their mobo before its even considered.

I never said I don't believe in it, you can keep arguing all you want to make a point i ALREADY know, it proves nothing. It goes by case by case basis, but hey keep posting man I'm bored tonight.


----------



## Caos

I have the EK-Supremacy EVO - Full Nickel, bring the J2 jet plate which is for the 115x socket, but is this ready for the 115x or should I have changed it? Thank you

Because I did not make any changes, I installed it as it was out of the box

And I use only this liquid,
EK-CryoFuel Navy Blue Concentrate 100 l
It's enough?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

@akira749

So via the cooling configurator it is saying that the Aorus 1080 Ti block will be available the last week in May.



But looking at the news of the upcoming blocks, the Aorus is listed as "Early May"



So which one is correct?

Thanks


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> I have the EK-Supremacy EVO - Full Nickel, bring the J2 jet plate which is for the 115x socket, but is this ready for the 115x or should I have changed it? Thank you
> 
> Because I did not make any changes, I installed it as it was out of the box
> 
> And I use only this liquid,
> EK-CryoFuel Navy Blue Concentrate 100 l
> It's enough?


Just received my EK-Supremacy Evo - as well and I did not had the J2 plate inside for i7 7700K (115x socket) so I had to take it apart...clean it under hot water with a soft toothbrush and assemble it back with the correct jet plate


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Just received my EK-Supremacy Evo - as well and I did not had the J2 plate inside for i7 7700K (115x socket) so I had to take it apart...clean it under hot water with a soft toothbrush and assemble it back with the correct jet plate


Thank you for responding .. but is it necessary? At the moment my temperatures are well .. maximum core frame 66 °, idle are by 29 °. Does it affect performance?
I have my 7700k at 4.9 vcore1.264, delid.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Thank you for responding .. but is it necessary? At the moment my temperatures are well .. maximum core frame 66 °, idle are by 29 °. Does it affect performance?
> I have my 7700k at 4.9 vcore1.264, delid.


I'm not really experienced enough to answer that question...but I will say the following..

i7 7700k @5.1 / 4.9 1.425 (Bench V) + Ram 1.395 running Prime (torture test) with Noctua NH - D14 82-86 Celsius (Fans at Max)
i7 7700k @5.1 / 4.9 1.425 (Bench V) + Ram 1.395 running Prime (torture test) with Maximus VIII Impact Monoblock installed Goofy (Wrong inlet/outlet and some other things) 92-98 Celsius (Fans at 800-3000RPM)
i7 7700k @5.1 / 4.9 1.425 (Bench V) + Ram 1.395 running Prime (torture test) with Maximus VIII Impact Monoblock installed Correctly 86-88 Celsius (800 - 1700 RPM)
i7 7700k @5.1 / 4.9 1.425 (Bench V) + Ram 1.395 running Prime (torture test) with Supremacy Evo Nickel Plexi Installed correctly 76-80 Celsius (with fans at 600-1000 RPM)

EDIT: If you decide to take it apart ...go back to my first rule....read manual...
Also as a tip, take the 4 screws out somewhere far far away from water...and when you put the block back together use a hair dryer...an air dust can....a blower.....anything, but just don't leave water in those treads as they will rust....and fast....and ugly...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> So via the cooling configurator it is saying that the Aorus 1080 Ti block will be available the last week in May.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But looking at the news of the upcoming blocks, the Aorus is listed as "Early May"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So which one is correct?
> 
> Thanks


4th week of May is sadly the correct one.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 4th week of May is sadly the correct one.


Bummer


----------



## becks

Okay...I'm here to share my toughs on the whole block / monoblock / water cooling your PC.
This is purely my opinion and not a scientific review..

Is it worth it ? Clearly it is!..especially when you think about squeezing down the last possible performance out of your rig.
For my personally I gained 6-10 Celsius better than with one of the best air coolers on the market plus I have a near silent rig now.
So what's the deal with monoblocks ?! Well I will definitely pull the trigger in the future and order one again as they are just darn beautiful from every point of view..but!
Observing my system now with the CPU block vs monobock...my flow visibly increased by 25-35% so I am sure that with a top pump I would'v head great performance with it..
But as always when you cheap on one part of the system it will come back and byte you.

Now the VRM/Phase part...I never really saw them getting warmer before with the NH-D14 as there was a fresh breeze of air across the board...or with the monoblock...but I definitely see them being toasty now with just the CPU block...
Do they matter....definitely yes! If you plan on keeping the rig any longer than the next release on the market....its definitely something you should take into consideration.

How is the system working right now you might ask...
It works exactly as expected...heat transfer is incredible and could be improved even more with a better pump...and better radiators down the line...
I hit the start stress test...and the second I do that...water temperature jumps 1-2 Celsius UP...now that's what I call transfer!

Great job Ek...You do GREAT products!
Its all about getting the water molecules agitated in the CPU block so the heat is transferred and a lesson learned for me not to cheap on any part of a system anymore..

Here are some pictures of my Paste application..Enjoy.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> I'm not really experienced enough to answer that question...but I will say the following..
> 
> i7 7700k @5.1 / 4.9 1.425 (Bench V) + Ram 1.395 running Prime (torture test) with Noctua NH - D14 82-86 Celsius (Fans at Max)
> i7 7700k @5.1 / 4.9 1.425 (Bench V) + Ram 1.395 running Prime (torture test) with Maximus VIII Impact Monoblock installed Goofy (Wrong inlet/outlet and some other things) 92-98 Celsius (Fans at 800-3000RPM)
> i7 7700k @5.1 / 4.9 1.425 (Bench V) + Ram 1.395 running Prime (torture test) with Maximus VIII Impact Monoblock installed Correctly 86-88 Celsius (800 - 1700 RPM)
> i7 7700k @5.1 / 4.9 1.425 (Bench V) + Ram 1.395 running Prime (torture test) with Supremacy Evo Nickel Plexi Installed correctly 76-80 Celsius (with fans at 600-1000 RPM)
> 
> EDIT: If you decide to take it apart ...go back to my first rule....read manual...
> Also as a tip, take the 4 screws out somewhere far far away from water...and when you put the block back together use a hair dryer...an air dust can....a blower.....anything, but just don't leave water in those treads as they will rust....and fast....and ugly...


Ok I understand, I see if I dismantle my loop to change the jetplate, just that I did not want to do


----------



## saint19

Hi guys.

I quit of this club, I still have the EK CPU Waterblock but it is not in use since my main rig is running now Intel and not AMD.

See you around


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Okay...I'm here to share my toughs on the whole block / monoblock / water cooling your PC.
> This is purely my opinion and not a scientific review..
> 
> Is it worth it ? Clearly it is!..especially when you think about squeezing down the last possible performance out of your rig.
> For my personally I gained 6-10 Celsius better than with one of the best air coolers on the market plus I have a near silent rig now.
> So what's the deal with monoblocks ?! Well I will definitely pull the trigger in the future and order one again as they are just darn beautiful from every point of view..but!
> Observing my system now with the CPU block vs monobock...my flow visibly increased by 25-35% so I am sure that with a top pump I would'v head great performance with it..
> But as always when you cheap on one part of the system it will come back and byte you.
> 
> Now the VRM/Phase part...I never really saw them getting warmer before with the NH-D14 as there was a fresh breeze of air across the board...or with the monoblock...but I definitely see them being toasty now with just the CPU block...
> Do they matter....definitely yes! If you plan on keeping the rig any longer than the next release on the market....its definitely something you should take into consideration.
> 
> How is the system working right now you might ask...
> It works exactly as expected...heat transfer is incredible and could be improved even more with a better pump...and better radiators down the line...
> I hit the start stress test...and the second I do that...water temperature jumps 1-2 Celsius UP...now that's what I call transfer!
> 
> Great job Ek...You do GREAT products!
> Its all about getting the water molecules agitated in the CPU block so the heat is transferred and a lesson learned for me not to cheap on any part of a system anymore..
> 
> Here are some pictures of my Paste application..Enjoy.


Excellent post and photos.
Reperoonie+


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Excellent post and photos.
> Reperoonie+


Thank you very much, appreciated


----------



## whitrzac

I'm going to be adding another 980ti to my system. My current rads are not up to the task of dissipating the heat...

I've pretty much boiled it down to a XE 360 + PE 240, or a single WE360(180x2)

Any input on which route to go?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> I'm going to be adding another 980ti to my system. My current rads are not up to the task of dissipating the heat...
> 
> I've pretty much boiled it down to a XE 360 + PE 240, or a single WE360(180x2)
> 
> Any input on which route to go?


If your case can handle 2x360 then do so. 2x980ti and depending what CPU you have is quite a hefty load especially if both are OCed. People think im crazy for having a cpu/gpu with a 360/240 but my temps are fantastic.


----------



## whitrzac

It won't fit 2x 360, they would interfere with a few parts.

I can do a thick 360 + thin 240 or a a 180x2


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> It won't fit 2x 360, they would interfere with a few parts.
> 
> I can do a thick 360 + thin 240 or a a 180x2


I think those should have around a 450-500w dissipation depending on fans used push/pull. I know for my r9 390 and 1700x my delta raises to 7-8°C or so.


----------



## coccosoids

Proud owner of a S360 for about a day... did not expect 2 things:

1. the clear tubing, despite it's diameter, is quite rigid - will post pictures of what I mean.
2. the splitter included for the fans barely reach my cpu fan header. I wish I knew - I would've ordered and extender.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coccosoids*
> 
> the splitter included for the fans barely reach my cpu fan header. I wish I knew - I would've ordered and extender.


It does say right on the product page that its a 10cm splitter...
Quote:


> EK-KIT S360 water cooling kit includes:
> - Universal CPU water block: EK-Supremacy MX UNI (incl. thermal material)
> - Radiator: EK-CoolStream SE 360 (Slim Tripple)
> - Radiator fan: EK-Vardar F3-120 (1850rpm) (3pcs)
> - Water pump-reservoir combo: EK-XRES 100 SPC-60 MX PWM (incl. pump)
> - Tubing: EK-DuraClear 9,5/12,7mm (3/8'' - 1/2'') (2 meters)
> - Compression fittings: EK-ACF Fitting 10/13mm (3/8'' - 1/2'') - G1/4 Nickel (6 pcs)
> - Coolant concentrate: EK-Ekoolant EVO Clear (100mL; for 1L of coolant)
> - Y-cable splitter: EK-Cable Y-Splitter 3-Fan PWM *(10cm)*
> - ATX bridging plug


----------



## coccosoids

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> It does say right on the product page that its a 10cm splitter...


Hehe, yes you're perfectly right. However on my first WC build this was the least of my worries... and secondly - you would expect them to have a clue about cable lengths in modern systems


----------



## coccosoids

Since I am here: how can I control my fans and pump? Is there a preferred method over any other? I find my uefi to be completely counter intuitive.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coccosoids*
> 
> Hehe, yes you're perfectly right. However on my first WC build this was the least of my worries... and secondly - you would expect them to have a clue about cable lengths in modern systems


They do actually have a clue, most people running a single 360mm radiator, run it at the top of the case and since the main fan headers are usually located at the top of the motherboard, a 10cm splitter + fan cable length is more than plenty. If they included an even longer splitter it would just result in cable management issues for most people.

Don't blame EK for your mistakes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coccosoids*
> 
> Since I am here: how can I control my fans and pump? Is there a preferred method over any other? I find my uefi to be completely counter intuitive.


What motherboard do you have? Secondly, please don't double post, use the edit button if you need to add something.


----------



## coccosoids

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> They do actually have a clue, most people running a single 360mm radiator, run it at the top of the case and since the main fan headers are usually located at the top of the motherboard, a 10cm splitter + fan cable length is more than plenty. If they included an even longer splitter it would just result in cable management issues for most people.
> 
> Don't blame EK for your mistakes.


I haven't thought of it like that, so point taken on the cable length. I decided to front mount my rad. But still... would've been a pleasant surprise to have everything fit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Don't blame EK for your mistakes.
> What motherboard do you have? Secondly, please don't double post, use the edit button if you need to add something.


It's an Asrock X99 Taichi.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coccosoids*
> 
> It's an Asrock X99 Taichi.


Have you tried the Asrock A-Tuning utility? It has fan control built in. Might be a bit easier than using the UEFI control.

http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/X99%20Taichi/index.asp#osW1064


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coccosoids*
> 
> I haven't thought of it like that, so point taken on the cable length. I decided to front mount my rad. But still... would've been a pleasant surprise to have everything fit.
> It's an Asrock X99 Taichi.


Hi there

I would as above use ASRock A-Tuning which works very well there and you can try to set in BIOS as well everything, its easy

With ASRock A-Tuning I would use Autotune feature which will create first PWM curve and then move points(I think you have there 4 points) to yours desired levels,depending on how you like it

But still I would have look on Aquaero 5LT or 6LT, with Aquaero you will have better fan control than with BIOS or A-Tuning

I've as well ASRock X99 board, but my board is Extreme6

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## rolandos582

Work in progress. Joining the EK club with supremacy evo, 2x gtx980 block and intel 750 ssd block


----------



## rubenlol2

Curious if there will be any available CPU blocks for AMD's 16 core Threadripper platform X390/99 when it launches, uses the same package as naples does.


LGA 4094-pin SR3, pretty huge.
I'd imagine EK would want to make a new block just for that chip simply because of how huge it is.


----------



## dilster97

Checked the nickel blokes on my 980s after a year of runn
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubenlol2*
> 
> Curious if there will be any available CPU blocks for AMD's 16 core Threadripper platform X390/99 when it launches, uses the same package as naples does.
> 
> LGA 4094-pin SR3, pretty huge.
> I'd imagine EK would want to make a new block just for that chip simply because of how huge it is.


If there's demand...


----------



## rubenlol2

Seeing how AMD is pulling a HEDT out of their rear to compete with intel's i9 lineup, there will certainly be demand.


----------



## alfredo82

Just finished my all EK build. XRES 3.2 PWM combo, XE 360 up front, PE 120 rear. All Corsair HD120 fans except for 2 Corsair HD140 up top. Top and front set up as intake. Rear is push-pull exhaust. The GPU brace is an EK anticyclone cut down with some rubber pads. Case is a Corsair 400c.


----------



## becks

Anyone has some measurements for this item: EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 - Black

I can't find anything on any website...interested to know Height including handle... and Length..
I need to take everything into consideration if I want to cram 2x 240 Radiators (1x SE and 1x XE 60 mm thick) into a Fractal Design Nano S


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alfredo82*
> 
> Just finished my all EK build. XRES 3.2 PWM combo, XE 360 up front, PE 120 rear. All Corsair HD120 fans except for 2 Corsair HD140 up top. Top and front set up as intake. Rear is push-pull exhaust. The GPU brace is an EK anticyclone cut down with some rubber pads. Case is a Corsair 400c.


Nice. Can you do a photo fully lit? (Perhaps use the flash) I'm curious how you have the pump situated and how things fit with the thick front radiator. (It's hard to see details with the only lighting being the case LED lighting.)

I'm using a 460X RGB case (same chassis), so I have the same size limitations and I'm finding that things are... tight. I've wondered if there would be a way to stick a D5 pump on the bottom with a small reservoir somewhere near the top of the case (perhaps mounted horizontally from the top of the case.)

Thank you
Gary


----------



## jleslie246

Has anyone here ever ordered directly from EK support? I sent payment via PayPal last week and now I don't get a reply when I inquire about shipment tracking.

UPDATE: Finally got a reply and the part (smooth plexi top for my supremacy evo).


----------



## alfredo82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Nice. Can you do a photo fully lit? (Perhaps use the flash) I'm curious how you have the pump situated and how things fit with the thick front radiator. (It's hard to see details with the only lighting being the case LED lighting.)
> 
> I'm using a 460X RGB case (same chassis), so I have the same size limitations and I'm finding that things are... tight. I've wondered if there would be a way to stick a D5 pump on the bottom with a small reservoir somewhere near the top of the case (perhaps mounted horizontally from the top of the case.)
> 
> Thank you
> Gary


Pics as soon as I can. The pump sits on the EK bracket.; attaches to standard 120mm fan mount. There is about a 1 or 2 mm clearance from the pump to the psu shroud. 4 out of the 12 screws for the radiator don't line up with the available slots on the front chassis, 460x might be different (different front fan mount slots) but since you will probably go fans first in push it might be an issue, you might have to skip the bottom two screws on the bottom fan. Shouldn't be an issue to fit a d5 pump with their other unipump bracket that looks more like a spider than the L shape.


----------



## lever2stacks

Lot's of EK in this build, borosilicate glass for the tubing.


Lever


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alfredo82*
> 
> Pics as soon as I can. The pump sits on the EK bracket.; attaches to standard 120mm fan mount. There is about a 1 or 2 mm clearance from the pump to the psu shroud. 4 out of the 12 screws for the radiator don't line up with the available slots on the front chassis, 460x might be different (different front fan mount slots) but since you will probably go fans first in push it might be an issue, you might have to skip the bottom two screws on the bottom fan. Shouldn't be an issue to fit a d5 pump with their other unipump bracket that looks more like a spider than the L shape.


I'd be grateful. Now that you explained it, I see in the pictures that you're using the "EK-UNI" _vertical_ pump mount (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical.) I thought you were using the other one that has the same part name (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan), but couldn't figure out how you had it mounted to the bottom of the case with no holes (unless you drilled.)

In my case, I just bolted the pump to the bottom of the case with no bracket. I'm using the two slots normally used for the front shroud, along with a big washer and another open space on the bottom to attach at three points. The problem with that hack is that it's flaky, and requires that the pump is very close to the side of the case.

As for the radiator, I was able to mount the EK "slim" 360 radiator using all 12 points, but I understand that the front of the 460X is a bit more mounting friendly when compared to the 400c. I'm still surprised you were able to get that massive XE rad in there, but your GFX card looks shorter than mine.

Nice to see that I'm not the only person trying to shove water cooling into a more compact case.









Take care
Gary


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Nice to see that I'm not the only person trying to shove water cooling into a more compact case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take care
> Gary


I'm right there with ya. I'm water cooling in a fractal design arc mini. A micro atx case that's only slightly smaller than the 400c/460x.

Only a single 360 pe up top. I have room for a 240 se, maybe even a pe in front just haven't done it yet. Gpu is a little on the longer side so that could make a 240 in front a bit challenging with the Revo D5 140 I have attached to one of the front 120s by way of the uni mount (the L shaped one).


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I'm right there with ya. I'm water cooling in a fractal design arc mini. A micro atx case that's only slightly smaller than the 400c/460x.


Any current photos? I can only learn from others who are cramming stuff into smaller cases.









Take care
Gary


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Any current photos? I can only learn from others who are cramming stuff into smaller cases.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take care
> Gary


----------



## coccosoids

Any guides for how to setup the pump in bios? I've got the EK-XRES 100 SPC-60 MX PWM that comes with the S360 - any specific guidelines for this?


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coccosoids*
> 
> Any guides for how to setup the pump in bios? I've got the EK-XRES 100 SPC-60 MX PWM that comes with the S360 - any specific guidelines for this?


That has to do with the Motherboard more than with the pump itself.
You control it the same as you would with a PWN fan...(Bios sees pump as a fan, even if you plug it into a pump header on the motherboard)
Nothing fancy really...
What motherboard you have ?


----------



## coccosoids

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> That has to do with the Motherboard more than with the pump itself.
> You control it the same as you would with a PWN fan...(Bios sees pump as a fan, even if you plug it into a pump header on the motherboard)
> Nothing fancy really...
> What motherboard you have ?


The board I have is an X99 Taichi Asrock. First thing that bugs is that after connecting the pump to the fan / pump header on my mb the uefi is still configured as fan header - I can change it to w_pump and have the benefit of slightly different settings to tinker with. But besides that, is it recommended to run the pump at lower speeds, controlled by temp readings? Should I keep it at a fixed value rather?


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coccosoids*
> 
> The board I have is an X99 Taichi Asrock. First thing that bugs is that after connecting the pump to the fan / pump header on my mb the uefi is still configured as fan header - I can change it to w_pump and have the benefit of slightly different settings to tinker with. But besides that, is it recommended to run the pump at lower speeds, controlled by temp readings? Should I keep it at a fixed value rather?


Pump is seen and controlled same as a Fan..
You can configure it in PWN ( x% - y%) mode or DC mode (x RPM - y RPM...) hope you understand...
You can either put it on a curve, as with a fan.. and get it spinning lower and higher depending on the temp (On asus boards you can change what sensor that particular fan/pump to monitor and adjust accordingly..I don't know if that is possible with your Taichi )
Me personally I put it on manual at a set speed ..
There are so many variables in a loop that I can't give you the best advice really...some loops are restrictive...in others the fluid moves too fast...etc
You will have to test for yourself really...

Use a monitoring software like Hwinfo and check temps while you play with different speeds and see what the outcome is..


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing new Gaming Series kits


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing new Gaming Series kits


Eek!!!







not a bad kit, but having run both a bay res and res tube, the bay is SUCH a pain to have bleed. This is going to be a nightmare for beginners, unless the bay design has changed.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coccosoids*
> 
> Any guides for how to setup the pump in bios? I've got the EK-XRES 100 SPC-60 MX PWM that comes with the S360 - any specific guidelines for this?


If it's inside your case, I'd just set the thing to "manual" or the highest speed possible in BIOS and forget about it. Sure, you can control it via PWM, but that SPC pump is very quiet compared to more powerful pumps.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing new Gaming Series kits


I don't understand... why do you associate free 5.25" bays with gamers? I was always under the impression that gamers were some of the first to move AWAY from cases with 5.25" bays in order to get more portable cases...

If you want to appeal to gamers specifically, perhaps just include a bunch of stickers in the box?


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> If it's inside your case, I'd just set the thing to "manual" or the highest speed possible in BIOS and forget about it. Sure, you can control it via PWM, but that SPC pump is very quiet compared to more powerful pumps.


I wouldn't do highest speed possible if you don't need it. I run my pump at 50%. I see no temp change between 50-100%.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Anyone has some measurements for this item: EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 - Black
> 
> I can't find anything on any website...interested to know Height including handle... and Length..
> I need to take everything into consideration if I want to cram 2x 240 Radiators (1x SE and 1x XE 60 mm thick) into a Fractal Design Nano S


Length is 38mm without a plug. With it it's 40mm.
Tube diameter is 23mm. If you take into account the fact that the knob is perpendicular to the tube when it is closed, then the total "thickness" is the length of the knob which is 37mm.
The total height is 39.1mm.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Length is 38mm without a plug. With it it's 40mm.
> Tube diameter is 23mm. If you take into account the fact that the knob is perpendicular to the tube when it is closed, then the total "thickness" is the length of the knob which is 37mm.
> The total height is 39.1mm.


Thank you very much..


----------



## HaykOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> I don't understand... why do you associate free 5.25" bays with gamers? I was always under the impression that gamers were some of the first to move AWAY from cases with 5.25" bays in order to get more portable cases...
> 
> If you want to appeal to gamers specifically, perhaps just include a bunch of stickers in the box?


I wouldve expected RGB lighting


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HaykOC*
> 
> I wouldve expected RGB lighting


This pretty much sums it up









Wonder when the new Predator series will come to the market tho


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> Wonder when the new Predator series will come to the market tho


3rd quarter of 2017


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 3rd quarter of 2017


Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> Wonder when the new Predator series will come to the market tho
> 
> 
> 
> 3rd quarter of 2017
Click to expand...

what about my monoblock ( x370 titanium )


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what about my monoblock ( x370 titanium )


No ETA sorry


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Thank you very much..


Once I got mine in hand it was bigger than I expected. Maybe I'm just no good at visualizing space. I went with a spare smaller valve I had laying around. Aesthetically looked better to me.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So next week is the 4th week of May


----------



## garyd9

If anyone from EK monitors this thread....

You really should sell a trivial bracket that would allow mounting your reservoirs to a 120mm or 140mm fan mount (such as a radiator.) Your res brackets mount with a single bolt in the middle of the mount, which is great for case mounting... and that's it.

You have your two "uni" brackets that work for 3 or 4 different types of pumps, but have a big gap in the middle, so can't mount the res bracket to that. You have your 50/70 adapters which presumably work for drive bays and perhaps other situations that require a right angle. If you took your "50/70" adapter, chopped off the "50" half and extended the "70" half to 130mm, you'd instantly have a great adapter to mount the res on a 120mm fan mount.

I'm about to purchase a reservoir, and the ONLY viable place in my case to mount it would be behind a 360mm radiator. There is literally no other place in my case where a 6cm round tube (that is 10cm long) will fit. I want to purchase an EK res, but then I'd have to hack something up to mount it. I'd prefer to keep this build clean. So, I'm forced to go with another company for a reservoir.

How much would stocking a few painted flat pieces of metal cost? Surely less than the amount of profit you lose from not having them...

Take care
Gary


----------



## coccosoids

Quick question: I have an ekwb kit which uses EK-ACF Fitting 10/13mm (3/8'' - 1/2'') - G1/4 Nickel (6 pcs) fittings... can I use both hard tubing and soft tubing and if yes what kind of fittings do I have to buy in order to connect the two?

Thanks.


----------



## whitrzac

Does anyone know where I can find a fc780 classy backplate? I have 1 card with an EK backplate and the other still has the stock evga one.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can find a fc780 classy backplate? I have 1 card with an EK backplate and the other still has the stock evga one.


I would check on the OCN Marketplace if not there I would put a wanted thread in the cooling section etc.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can find a fc780 classy backplate? I have 1 card with an EK backplate and the other still has the stock evga one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would check on the OCN Marketplace if not there I would put a wanted thread in the cooling section etc.
Click to expand...

Bloody lot of help that's likely to be . . . . .

Have you noticed how the marketplace has dwindled to little more than a few scraps lately . . .

Not sure that there's enough folks still here with enough reps to use it . . at least to where it has much of value.

Have you noticed how many guys are offering stuff in the regular threads, since they can't use the mp. . . a THW10 comes to mind . .


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah I did notice the cleansing of the Marketplace


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what about my monoblock ( x370 titanium )
> 
> 
> 
> No ETA sorry
Click to expand...



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> If anyone from EK monitors this thread....
> 
> You really should sell a trivial bracket that would allow mounting your reservoirs to a 120mm or 140mm fan mount (such as a radiator.) Your res brackets mount with a single bolt in the middle of the mount, which is great for case mounting... and that's it.
> 
> You have your two "uni" brackets that work for 3 or 4 different types of pumps, but have a big gap in the middle, so can't mount the res bracket to that. You have your 50/70 adapters which presumably work for drive bays and perhaps other situations that require a right angle. If you took your "50/70" adapter, chopped off the "50" half and extended the "70" half to 130mm, you'd instantly have a great adapter to mount the res on a 120mm fan mount.
> 
> I'm about to purchase a reservoir, and the ONLY viable place in my case to mount it would be behind a 360mm radiator. There is literally no other place in my case where a 6cm round tube (that is 10cm long) will fit. I want to purchase an EK res, but then I'd have to hack something up to mount it. I'd prefer to keep this build clean. So, I'm forced to go with another company for a reservoir.
> 
> How much would stocking a few painted flat pieces of metal cost? Surely less than the amount of profit you lose from not having them...
> 
> Take care
> Gary


DIY = you can do everything you want. that bracket would literally take some flat bar stock ( i would use AL ), a saw and a drill. -- possibly screws/nuts and or rivets
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah I did notice the cleansing of the Marketplace


ime it seems to come in spurts


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah marketplace generally heats up in the fall. Once spring arrives it's picked clean. But mostly it's the old guard cleaning house. You younguns need to stockpile, get your reps and then you can contribute. I got my last 932 from a gent in his 20s, so I know it can be done.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah marketplace generally heats up in the fall. Once spring arrives it's picked clean. But mostly it's the old guard cleaning house. You younguns need to stockpile, get your reps and then you can contribute. I got my last 932 from a gent in his 20s, so I know it can be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


Speaking of classifieds... you have a link in your sig to a classified thread that is marked as "closed."


----------



## coccosoids

Any alternative for the standard Vardars that come with the ek kits in the range of *12-16$* that are worth a bother?

I think these are the standard fans: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vardar-f3-120-1850rpm

My problem with them is that they make this weee weee weeeah weee weee weeeah rhythmic sound that is driving me mad.


----------



## garyd9

Does anyone have the full dimensions of EK's "EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM (including pump)"?

I'm able to deduce that it's 88mm x 78mm measured horizontally (intake pointing up) based on measurements on EK's website for one of the D5 res/pump combo's (here: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-sl-pump), but I can't find the vertical measurement of just the pump and top.

I need the measurement from the back of the pump to the top of the top (where the intake is.) (See the attached image, shamelessly pulled from EK's website and edited to indicate the measurement I need.) Being the leg on the mounting thing appears to stick out a bit further than the back of the pump, it should probably include that space.

(Please don't include the size of any fittings, as they all are different.)



Thank you
Gary


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Does anyone have the full dimensions of EK's "EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM (including pump)"?
> 
> I'm able to deduce that it's 88mm x 78mm measured horizontally (intake pointing up) based on measurements on EK's website for one of the D5 res/pump combo's (here: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-sl-pump), but I can't find the vertical measurement of just the pump and top.
> 
> I need the measurement from the back of the pump to the top of the top (where the intake is.) (See the attached image, shamelessly pulled from EK's website and edited to indicate the measurement I need.) Being the leg on the mounting thing appears to stick out a bit further than the back of the pump, it should probably include that space.
> 
> (Please don't include the size of any fittings, as they all are different.)
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you
> Gary


If you don't get an answer by tonihht, PM me as a reminder and I'll measure when I get home.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> DIY = you can do everything you want. that bracket would literally take some flat bar stock ( i would use AL ), a saw and a drill. -- possibly screws/nuts and or rivets


Oh, I agree it would be easy enough to fab, but if I'd rather pay for it, and the cost to EK would be trivial, why wouldn't they stock something so obvious?

What I've decided to do is just pop some old fashion 120mm fan grills (black) to my radiator, and bolt the reservoir the the fan grill (with a washer, if needed.) I could have done an alphacool res (which includes mounting for both 120mm and 140mm fans/rads), but I really don't want a res that squirts making water towers or whatever. I've also read that some people have had issues (cracking/leaking) with the plastic plugs AC uses for their LED ports.

EK seems to have one of the better reputations in regards to supporting customers, and that should be rewarded with my money (even if I hope that I'll never have to use the support.)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah marketplace generally heats up in the fall. Once spring arrives it's picked clean. But mostly it's the old guard cleaning house. You younguns need to stockpile, get your reps and then you can contribute. I got my last 932 from a gent in his 20s, so I know it can be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of classifieds... you have a link in your sig to a classified thread that is marked as "closed."
Click to expand...

Yeah, sadly I am relegated to mobile device atm, which makes updating my thread next to impossible. I never closed the thread. Just cannot bump it in Mobile.









I have about 50 monsoon fittings and a couple EK Reservoirs that I need to sell but mobile is hamstringing me.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah, sadly I am relegated to mobile device atm, which makes updating my thread next to impossible. I never closed the thread. Just cannot bump it in Mobile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have about 50 monsoon fittings and a couple EK Reservoirs that I need to sell but mobile is hamstringing me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Just switch to desktop mode on mobile and it should let you


----------



## Ceadderman

I know it will, but my S4 basically comes to a screeching halt on the rural WiFi network. Cell tower is at the top of the hill and we sit at the base of it 1 mile east. So slow is not that accurate a term. We are 1 step below that.









I have to hold the phone in the air to get 2 bars in the evening and get 3 bars in the colder AM temps.









I have to be in town tomorrow to take an online test for my job, so I will try to bump the thread then.









:Edit:

Finally thread found and reopened. Still have to update it with the EK single bay Res and the White Acetal cylinder Res but it's back up.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> DIY = you can do everything you want. that bracket would literally take some flat bar stock ( i would use AL ), a saw and a drill. -- possibly screws/nuts and or rivets
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, I agree it would be easy enough to fab, but if I'd rather pay for it, and the cost to EK would be trivial, why wouldn't they stock something so obvious?
> 
> What I've decided to do is just pop some old fashion 120mm fan grills (black) to my radiator, and bolt the reservoir the the fan grill (with a washer, if needed.) I could have done an alphacool res (which includes mounting for both 120mm and 140mm fans/rads), but I really don't want a res that squirts making water towers or whatever. I've also read that some people have had issues (cracking/leaking) with the plastic plugs AC uses for their LED ports.
> 
> EK seems to have one of the better reputations in regards to supporting customers, and that should be rewarded with my money (even if I hope that I'll never have to use the support.)
Click to expand...

my wife is in manufacturing. and the cost is never trivial i have found ....


----------



## Ceadderman

Not sure if this has been posted here by the rep but...



One for you Green guys. WiFi is cooperating better than expected this AM. Generally run into problems posting pics.









~Ceadder


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not sure if this has been posted here by the rep but...
> 
> 
> 
> One for you Green guys. WiFi is cooperating better than expected this AM. Generally run into problems posting pics.


I'm not sure I understand the message. Are you saying that only 106 FE's were actually ever sold? I think the number must be at least 2-3 higher than that! (it's a joke...)


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> I'm not sure I understand the message. Are you saying that only 106 FE's were actually ever sold? I think the number must be at least 2-3 higher than that!


god no. it covers 106 variants of the FE card. So think of all the current reference and FE boards currently available.


----------



## garyd9

oh.. um. I edited my post to mention that I was joking.


----------



## Ceadderman

*Ahem* No. Just no.









That's over the release quantity. So ASUS, EVGA(?), Giga, MSi, etc. Every brand that has a 1080. There is at least one card (likely moar) that block will fit. Cards that it doesn't fit, likely already had a block anyway.









~Ceadder


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *Ahem* No. Just no.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's over the release quantity.


OH! So they only RELEASED 106 FE's. Wait, does that include both 1080 _and_ 1070's, or just 1080's?

I guess it was a real limited edition run?









(yes, I'm still joking around. Sorry. It's a Monday.)


----------



## shimeng

Does anyone know if the terminal shroud (the part that says "GEFORCE GTX") can be removed without affecting normal operation?
Judging from the pictures it looks like the shroud is secured to the block cover by 2 screws. I just prefer the older design.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not sure if this has been posted here by the rep but...
> 
> 
> 
> One for you Green guys. WiFi is cooperating better than expected this AM. Generally run into problems posting pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure I understand the message. Are you saying that only 106 FE's were actually ever sold? I think the number must be at least 2-3 higher than that! (it's a joke...)
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *Ahem* No. Just no.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's over the release quantity.
> 
> 
> 
> OH! So they only RELEASED 106 FE's. Wait, does that include both 1080 _and_ 1070's, or just 1080's?
> 
> I guess it was a real limited edition run?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (yes, I'm still joking around. Sorry. It's a Monday.)
Click to expand...

Well, I got the joke and thought it was funny!








Ya gotta have a sense of humor!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coccosoids*
> 
> Quick question: I have an ekwb kit which uses EK-ACF Fitting 10/13mm (3/8'' - 1/2'') - G1/4 Nickel (6 pcs) fittings... can I use both hard tubing and soft tubing and if yes what kind of fittings do I have to buy in order to connect the two?
> 
> Thanks.


The EK-ACF are for soft tubing only. For hard tubing, you will need the EK-HDC.

If you want to use both type of tubings/fittings in the same loop you can. But with the proper fittings.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Does anyone have the full dimensions of EK's "EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM (including pump)"?
> 
> I'm able to deduce that it's 88mm x 78mm measured horizontally (intake pointing up) based on measurements on EK's website for one of the D5 res/pump combo's (here: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-sl-pump), but I can't find the vertical measurement of just the pump and top.
> 
> I need the measurement from the back of the pump to the top of the top (where the intake is.) (See the attached image, shamelessly pulled from EK's website and edited to indicate the measurement I need.) Being the leg on the mounting thing appears to stick out a bit further than the back of the pump, it should probably include that space.
> 
> (Please don't include the size of any fittings, as they all are different.)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you
> Gary


It's approx 7.2cm









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shimeng*
> 
> Does anyone know if the terminal shroud (the part that says "GEFORCE GTX") can be removed without affecting normal operation?
> Judging from the pictures it looks like the shroud is secured to the block cover by 2 screws. I just prefer the older design.


Yes you can remove it and it won't affect anything.


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing GeForce® GTX FE Full-Cover water blocks


----------



## Mora

I made a couple of custom mounts for my EK pump & res. Hope they are ready to go with Vega water blocks, the waiting is killing me as it is


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mora*
> 
> I made a couple of custom mounts for my EK pump & res. Hope they are ready to go with Vega water blocks, the waiting is killing me as it is


Tell me about it I'm still waiting for the Aorus block to be released. It's SUPPOSED to be the 4th week of May which is this week Originally it was going to be released early May, but we all know how that goes.. Here is my rig with 1020mm of rad space all being fed to my 6700k. Just look at that poor Aorus. She feels so left out. Had to uscrew my reservoir mount to fit this huge card in. Can't wait to rip this cooler off and get these temps LOW!! We getting close to release @akira749? Good news is that once it's released I'll stop bothering you


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing GeForce® GTX FE Full-Cover water blocks


A serious question about this... Did they already exist? I was in a microcenter a week or two ago, and they had several FE blocks, MSI blocks, even Asus blocks (but no gigabyte G1 blocks). The part was "EK-FC1080" and UPC 3831109831298.

On the ekwb.com website, this page shows that this block covers all the reference design (FE) cards: https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/waterblock/3831109831298

If these are different somehow, it might be useful to highlight those differences for people like me who are easily confused when a company announces they have a new product that they seemingly already had.


----------



## Mora

That's such a sad picture, the way that tubing goes past the GPU









1160mm of rads in mine, just sitting there unused, I'm not firing it up until the GPUs are in there as well.


----------



## DarthBaggins

So can we trade in our 1st Gen FC-1080 blocks for the new ones (would prefer a Acetal/Copper over the Nickel/Acetal i currently have) also are the 1st gen backplates compatible with the new blocks, and is the dual 90 terminal you guys recently released compatible too? Which it just looks like the terminal was changed.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mora*
> 
> I made a couple of custom mounts for my EK pump & res. Hope they are ready to go with Vega water blocks, the waiting is killing me as it is


I'm very concerned about your pumps there, very bad stall hazard...


----------



## 0ldChicken

Anyone have any advice/input on getting this block down to an actual copper like surface? I bought a Full copper (Ni) supremacy evo top and have spent quite a bit of time sanding and so far it looks like brass. I hit one of the sides HARD with some 120 grit but it still has that brassy yellow to it. I'm thinking it's from the nickel plating or this is actually brass haha.
If all else fails I have a new plexi top on the way


----------



## Ceadderman

Deplate it.

Plenty of how to vids on YouTube.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Anyone have any advice/input on getting this block down to an actual copper like surface? I bought a Full copper (Ni) supremacy evo top and have spent quite a bit of time sanding and so far it looks like brass. I hit one of the sides HARD with some 120 grit but it still has that brassy yellow to it. I'm thinking it's from the nickel plating or this is actually brass haha.
> If all else fails I have a new plexi top on the way


It is nickel plated brass, so you will just get brass (as you already have). Not sure why PPCs is saying it is full copper.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Deplate it.
> 
> Plenty of how to vids on YouTube.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I looked but didn't see much for nickel besides a few people using caswell's products. Not really trying to spend 25$ deplating a 17$ top that has now turned out to be brass underneath








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It is nickel plated brass, so you will just get brass (as you already have). Not sure why PPCs is saying it is full copper.


This is what I was afraid of, much appreciated! I probably would've gone back to sanding and eventually taken the dremel to it. I guess now I've got a brass supremacy top, glad I got that plexi one too


----------



## Ceadderman

Have you considered a Copper burnishing kit? They contain copper leaf that you wrap around whatever you wish. Don't sweat the wrinkles. Those will smooth out as you follow the directions supplied with the kits.









~Ceadder


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mora*
> 
> That's such a sad picture, the way that tubing goes past the GPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1160mm of rads in mine, just sitting there unused, I'm not firing it up until the GPUs are in there as well.


Yep meanwhile we are almost a month past the release date of the Aorus block and they are releasing FE 1080 Ti blocks.... again. Although it is nice to see they are finally doing copper again. Would be nice if I could get the Aorus block in copper rather than that nasty nickel plating. While the GPU runs pretty cool (60C in bench's and demanding games with 1.081v @ 2076 core and 12Ghz memory) I really miss seeing temps under water and with these pascal cards and GPU Boost 3.0 the lower temp you can get the card the better it performs.


----------



## Caos

Hi, is this condensation normal?


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Hi, is this condensation normal?


Yes... Assuming that is on the inside of the res


----------



## garyd9

This evening, I replaced an EK "SPC" pump/res combo (from the "slim" 360 kit) with a "EK-RES X3 150" and a "EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi."

My first impression of the pump is that the D5 at full power (~4800 RPM) is just as silent as the SPC pump, but it pushes a lot more water.

Impressions on the reservoir is that it's mostly well made. However, the EK logo anticyclone thing does NOT come preinstalled as the instructions claim, and doesn't seem to properly attach to the base of the res. It just kind of floats in a groove, but if I turn the res upside down, it falls right out. It's very "cheap" feeling in an otherwise very nice reservoir. (By comparison, the anticyclone EK logo on the "SPC" pump/res combo wedges securely into place.)

I might just take that anticyclone thing out and stick the foam in there anyway...

Still leak testing and hope to get some "glamour" photos tomorrow to update my "rig" photo with.


----------



## Ceadderman

Stay away from the foam. It breaks down over time and particles get into the loop.

iirc, the EK logo insert either snaps into the slot or there is a screw that needs to be used to lock it in place.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jyve

I just put one in a few months ago and there is no screw for sure. It does however just click right in. If yours doesn't then there something wrong.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> This evening, I replaced an EK "SPC" pump/res combo (from the "slim" 360 kit) with a "EK-RES X3 150" and a "EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi."
> 
> My first impression of the pump is that the D5 at full power (~4800 RPM) is just as silent as the SPC pump, but it pushes a lot more water.
> 
> Impressions on the reservoir is that it's mostly well made. However, the EK logo anticyclone thing does NOT come preinstalled as the instructions claim, and doesn't seem to properly attach to the base of the res. It just kind of floats in a groove, but if I turn the res upside down, it falls right out. It's very "cheap" feeling in an otherwise very nice reservoir. (By comparison, the anticyclone EK logo on the "SPC" pump/res combo wedges securely into place.)
> 
> I might just take that anticyclone thing out and stick the foam in there anyway...
> 
> Still leak testing and hope to get some "glamour" photos tomorrow to update my "rig" photo with.


Maybe the anti-cyclone isn't pushed all the way down into the groove or there's something wrong with it. You could try to use the one from your SPC to check out too.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ahhh okay. The screw must be the older method I am thinking of.









~Ceadder


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Maybe the anti-cyclone isn't pushed all the way down into the groove or there's something wrong with it. You could try to use the one from your SPC to check out too.


It's pushed as far as it'll go. I'm not sure if the one from the SPC will work: it has two "legs" that wedge in while the XRES is a single long piece.

@akira749, I purchased this from performance-pcs.com (EK authorized retailer.) Should I contact EK on their website to get assistance with the issue, or contact performance-pcs.com? (I'd really prefer not to have to tear down the entire loop.. again.)


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> It's pushed as far as it'll go. I'm not sure if the one from the SPC will work: it has two "legs" that wedge in while the XRES is a single long piece.
> 
> @akira749, I purchased this from performance-pcs.com (EK authorized retailer.) Should I contact EK on their website to get assistance with the issue, or contact performance-pcs.com? (I'd really prefer not to have to tear down the entire loop.. again.)


Contact PPCS since you bought it from there....they have a great CS team and should be able to provide you with a replacement part.


----------



## akira749

New EK Full-Cover water blocks for 1080 Ti AORUS graphics cards


----------



## DarthBaggins

Noticed they don't have the new styled port like the other cards. @akira749


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Noticed they don't have the new styled port like the other cards. @akira749


Nope, I noticed it too.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> New EK Full-Cover water blocks for 1080 Ti AORUS graphics cards


Thanks all mighty jesus or whatever god you may believe in. This is beautiful news. Going to be the first one to order UPS Urgent


----------



## vvv850

Funny how they advertise their blocks using pastel coolants, which they don't sell anymore. Just poking you


----------



## vvv850

Now to more serious things than my previous post.

Can someone please tell me about which time EK changed from D5 to D5 G2 in the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial (incl. 2x pumps)? I placed the order for one with highflow.nl and would really appreciate some insight.

Thanks,
Vlad


----------



## RavageTheEarth

It's official!!

Paid the $50 for UPS Urgent shipping because I'm THAT impatient.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> It's official!!
> 
> Paid the $50 for UPS Urgent shipping because I'm THAT impatient.


Don't feel bad. I do that kinda thing all the time. Pay a boatload in shipping cuz I want it NOW!

I paid extra shipping fees for my zotac 980ti block and still didn't install it for a week or 2 after I got the thing. But dammit I had it in my grubby little hands!


----------



## Mora

@RavageTheEarth

Hopefully no shipping delays. Post pics once you have it running.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Don't feel bad. I do that kinda thing all the time. Pay a boatload in shipping cuz I want it NOW!
> 
> I paid extra shipping fees for my zotac 980ti block and still didn't install it for a week or 2 after I got the thing. But dammit I had it in my grubby little hands!


I hear ya man. With computer and car parts I need them NOW. I bought this card on release day thinking that I would only have to deal with air cooling until early May, but sadly a one month delay drove me to the brink of insanity. Thank god it's finally announced! Praise the divine!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mora*
> 
> @RavageTheEarth
> 
> Hopefully no shipping delays. Post pics once you have it running.


I REALLY hope not. The block has already been delayed a month so we don't need any more delays. I wonder how long the "UPS Urgent" will take. I work in shipping and receiving and do a lot of international orders using UPS Worldship and there isn't a shipping service called "Urgent". I'm guessing it's Worldwide Express Or Worldwide Saver which is usually 1-3 days. That is from my end here in the U.S. though.

I will definitely be posting some pictures once I get it! Should be nice with my Fujipoly Extreme pads and Kyronaut paste.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Funny how they advertise their blocks using pastel coolants, which they don't sell anymore. Just poking you


Mayhems still sells Pastel coolant you know


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Now to more serious things than my previous post.
> 
> Can someone please tell me about which time EK changed from D5 to D5 G2 in the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial (incl. 2x pumps)? I placed the order for one with highflow.nl and would really appreciate some insight.
> 
> Thanks,
> Vlad


April 2016 so the recent stock should include the G2 version.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Now to more serious things than my previous post.
> 
> Can someone please tell me about which time EK changed from D5 to D5 G2 in the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial (incl. 2x pumps)? I placed the order for one with highflow.nl and would really appreciate some insight.
> 
> Thanks,
> Vlad


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> April 2016 so the recent stock should include the G2 version.


I'm really sorry I didn't see your post last night









But yes you should have the G2 pumps unless they have this component in stock for a long while. The G2 have an EK logo printed on the back sticker of the pump while the previous one didn't. It's a quick visual check that can be done.


----------



## garyd9

Quick question to EK and others who might have purchased a stand-alone EK reservoir: The res comes with plugs for the extra ports on the caps of the reservoir, and both the pictures on the EK website and the documentation reflect that these are metal plugs that are tightened with a hex key.

The plugs that came with mine were black plastic things with slots (similar to really, wide flat-head screwdriver slots) for tightening. (They feel cheap, but will probably plug the holes just as well.)

If this is a product change, EK really should update both their website and the product documentation.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quick question to EK and others who might have purchased a stand-alone EK reservoir: The res comes with plugs for the extra ports on the caps of the reservoir, and both the pictures on the EK website and the documentation reflect that these are metal plugs that are tightened with a hex key.
> 
> The plugs that came with mine were black plastic things with slots (similar to really, wide flat-head screwdriver slots) for tightening. (They feel cheap, but will probably plug the holes just as well.)
> 
> If this is a product change, EK really should update both their website and the product documentation.


EK have said that the slotted plugs are going to be the new standard since they were first introduced on the X4 standalone glass res.

I personally think its madness and just another part of EK's downmarket shift. Every slotted stop plug I have owned came from cheap parts and they all ended up marred, scratched and terrible looking. None of my classic HEX plugs looks anything but as new.

I would hope everyone that agrees would let them know. As it stands I'm increasingly thinking that Watercool will likely be my next res/pump choice.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> EK have said that the slotted plugs are going to be the new standard since they were first introduced on the X4 standalone glass res.
> 
> I personally think its madness and just another part of EK's downmarket shift. Every slotted stop plug I have owned came from cheap parts and they all ended up marred, scratched and terrible looking. None of my classic HEX plugs looks anything but as new.
> 
> I would hope everyone that agrees would let them know. As it stands I'm increasingly thinking that Watercool will likely be my next res/pump choice.


Oh.







I had gotten the impression that EK was a higher quality shop, but I guess things are changing and they are starting to cut corners. Personally, I think they'd have done better to save a couple pennies with less pretty logos on the product instead of cheaper plugs. That's just my opinion.

Sadly, they are still advertising a higher quality product than what comes in the box. I had expected better from a EU company where I thought there were laws against advertising one thing and actually packaging something else.

EK: How can I order the metal plugs that fit inside the inset holes in the reservoir (the same as what you advertise) and how much will it cost me? I'm guessing that standard G1/4 plugs won't work due to the holes being inset. Just to be clear, I'm attaching a picture (with highlights from me) from your ekwb.com/shop website showing what I'm referring to...


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Yes... Assuming that is on the inside of the res


Thank you. If it is inside, can I fill the reservoir more so that condensation is not noticeable?


----------



## madweazl

Ran into some issues bleeding the system so I reran the lower lines a few times. That still didnt correct the issue and I ran out of tubing to finish it off and had to cannibalize my drain line to plumb the GPU until some more line comes in. Turns out, the loop was fine and my EVGA PSU wasn't supplying enough voltage to the pump with just the pump plugged in so it was all for not and a lot of wasted line (and about time!); as soon as I connected the motherboard to the PSU the pump went wide open. Oh well, more fun to be had in a week or so I guess.


__
https://flic.kr/p/UZpffR


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quick question to EK and others who might have purchased a stand-alone EK reservoir: The res comes with plugs for the extra ports on the caps of the reservoir, and both the pictures on the EK website and the documentation reflect that these are metal plugs that are tightened with a hex key.
> 
> The plugs that came with mine were black plastic things with slots (similar to really, wide flat-head screwdriver slots) for tightening. (They feel cheap, but will probably plug the holes just as well.)
> 
> If this is a product change, EK really should update both their website and the product documentation.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> EK have said that the slotted plugs are going to be the new standard since they were first introduced on the X4 standalone glass res.
> 
> I personally think its madness and just another part of EK's downmarket shift. Every slotted stop plug I have owned came from cheap parts and they all ended up marred, scratched and terrible looking. None of my classic HEX plugs looks anything but as new.
> 
> I would hope everyone that agrees would let them know. As it stands I'm increasingly thinking that Watercool will likely be my next res/pump choice.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Oh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had gotten the impression that EK was a higher quality shop, but I guess things are changing and they are starting to cut corners. Personally, I think they'd have done better to save a couple pennies with less pretty logos on the product instead of cheaper plugs. That's just my opinion.
> 
> Sadly, they are still advertising a higher quality product than what comes in the box. I had expected better from a EU company where I thought there were laws against advertising one thing and actually packaging something else.
> 
> EK: How can I order the metal plugs that fit inside the inset holes in the reservoir (the same as what you advertise) and how much will it cost me? I'm guessing that standard G1/4 plugs won't work due to the holes being inset. Just to be clear, I'm attaching a picture (with highlights from me) from your ekwb.com/shop website showing what I'm referring to...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ashcroft is correct.

While I don't agree with this change too....i'm only a support rep and don't have any business decisions power. I just have to live with the anger of the customers when they see things like this.

The plugs are still available as a standalone product :
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-plug-g1-4
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-g1-4-plug-with-o-ring.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Won't be parting with any of the hex plugs I currently own then. Sheer madness I tell ya. Glad my 480 block came with hex instead of slot.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Oh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had gotten the impression that EK was a higher quality shop, but I guess things are changing and they are starting to cut corners. Personally, I think they'd have done better to save a couple pennies with less pretty logos on the product instead of cheaper plugs. That's just my opinion.
> 
> Sadly, they are still advertising a higher quality product than what comes in the box. I had expected better from a EU company where I thought there were laws against advertising one thing and actually packaging something else.
> 
> EK: How can I order the metal plugs that fit inside the inset holes in the reservoir (the same as what you advertise) and how much will it cost me? I'm guessing that standard G1/4 plugs won't work due to the holes being inset. Just to be clear, I'm attaching a picture (with highlights from me) from your ekwb.com/shop website showing what I'm referring to...


The plugs will work just fine with the inset ports. At least they did on the x3 100 I bought a while back. Of you want to put a fitting on any of the inset ports you'll need to use the spacers included. In the pic you posted you can see these spacers in the bag with the plugs. Bottom and top of the bag are the 2 included.

Must agree that this sort of sucks. I get the cost cutting, though I'm not a fan of the decision. Since they plan on doing this though they should do their due diligence and change the picture out. Did you buy it direct from ek? If you didn't then that's not really their fault.

I've been a champion of ek, specially their CS, but lately I've read a few accounts of poor CS. These stories coupled with this move to 'cheapen' some of their lineup isn't a good sign.

I hope they realize this is a bad move and reverse the course they are headed.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> While I don't agree with this change too....i'm only a support rep and don't have any business decisions power. I just have to live with the anger of the customers when they see things like this.
> 
> The plugs are still available as a standalone product :
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-plug-g1-4
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-g1-4-plug-with-o-ring.html


As a support rep, however, you have (or should have) the ability to relay my unhappiness to someone who does make decisions, or at least can do something to resolve the issue. Please do so.

Using the link provided for performance-pcs, replacing 4 cheap plastic plugs with 4 of those that EK advertises as coming with the reservoir would cost me over $15 (USD.) Half the cost is just shipping. Had EK not deliberately misled me (as a customer) as to what comes with the item, I could have ordered the plugs when I ordered the reservoir and then my only additional cost would be under 8 USD. Of course, then I might have chosen to order a different reservoir to begin with. (doubtful, but I was already on the fence because of the difficulty in mounting the EK res to 120mm fan holes.)

Jyve, I didn't purchase directly from EK. I purchased from an EK authorized retailer (performance-pcs.com.) It's still EK's responsibility, as the box was sealed.

I'll be honest here, akira749: I realize that this isn't your fault, but you're the only person I can use as a conduit to EK. I really am very unhappy with EK right now, and I'm regretting my decision to purchase the brand. Not so much because the product sucks or that the plastic leaks, or even so much about the money. *My unhappiness and regret is because I feel that EK is deliberately and purposely cheating customers* just to save a few pennies (and they will lose so much more money from the bad word of mouth and lost repeat business.)

EK needs to make this right, or I'll personally never buy an EK branded product again (and I still need a couple GPU blocks, another rad, hard tubing, fittings... and then I'll start water cooling my second PC.)


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> The plugs will work just fine with the inset ports. At least they did on the x3 100 I bought a while back. Of you want to put a fitting on any of the inset ports you'll need to use the spacers included. In the pic you posted you can see these spacers in the bag with the plugs. Bottom and top of the bag are the 2 included.


I think you misunderstood me. I meant that another other plug won't work. For example, I have a couple XSPC G1/4 plugs that won't work in the inset holes (because they won't thread in and seal due to the plugs having a lip.)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Did you buy it direct from ek? If you didn't then that's not really their fault.


As mentioned above, I bought a new sealed product from an official EK retailer. The blame is EK's for changing the product without changing the advertising. (performance-pc's can't be expected to open every box that EK ships to them to see if EK is trying to pull a fast one on customers.)

Regardless of the above statement, I have sent a message to performance-pcs.com via their web contact form concerning this issue, but haven't heard anything back. I can't reasonably expect ppc's to correct the issue when it's fully EK's responsibility.

Is EK turning into a Forrest Gump movie? Life is like an EK product... you never know what you're gonna get..


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> I think you misunderstood me. I meant that another other plug won't work. For example, I have a couple XSPC G1/4 plugs that won't work in the inset holes (because they won't thread in and seal due to the plugs having a lip.)
> As mentioned above, I bought a new sealed product from an official EK retailer. The blame is EK's for changing the product without changing the advertising. (performance-pc's can't be expected to open every box that EK ships to them to see if EK is trying to pull a fast one on customers.)
> 
> Regardless of the above statement, I have sent a message to performance-pcs.com via their web contact form concerning this issue, but haven't heard anything back. I can't reasonably expect ppc's to correct the issue when it's fully EK's responsibility.
> 
> Is EK turning into a Forrest Gump movie? Life is like an EK product... you never know what you're gonna get..


OK. I thought you were talking about ek plugs.

As for ek and pictures I'll take your word that Ed's site still shows the original plugs. I haven't checked. Had ek changed it on their site but ppc didn't then it would be on ppc.


----------



## madweazl

While I'm no fan of the slotted plugs either, XSPC's slotted and knurled plugs are fantastic. They have a beautiful finish and the knurled edge makes it so you dont have to mess with a tool at all. If EK delivered something like this, it would be a win/win (well, Allen with knurl would be win/win I guess). If you need a low profile solution, this wouldn't help of course. Most of my loop is EK but I didn't like some things so I went elsewhere; gotta love options.


----------



## garyd9

This is bad. I'm looking at GPU blocks, and popped on EK's website. I'm looking at a 10x0 FC block, and each time I say to myself "that looks nice", I'm now wondering if I'll actually get what they show on their website. The product page claims the block is made from copper, but perhaps they changed it to aluminum (or plastic!.) It claims that it comes with "2x EK plug G1/4"" and a 6mm allen key, but I already KNOW that they'll switch those items out for cheap plastic. It claims that the product comes with thermal pads, but maybe they are substituting tissue paper to save a few pennies.

Where does this end? If EK is already swapping out metal parts for plastic (and still advertising metal parts), then is anything I typed above, as far fetched as it sounds, is a possibility.

EK, I don't run a business, but even I know that if customers can't trust your brand, you might as well go ahead and shut down your business now before bankruptcy pulls you under.

PLEASE fix this. I _want_ to trust you. I _want_ EK to have great customer service. Please don't take that away from your customers, and please don't take your company away from yourself.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> As a support rep, however, you have (or should have) the ability to relay my unhappiness to someone who does make decisions, or at least can do something to resolve the issue. Please do so.
> 
> I'll be honest here, akira749: I realize that this isn't your fault, but you're the only person I can use as a conduit to EK. I really am very unhappy with EK right now, and I'm regretting my decision to purchase the brand. Not so much because the product sucks or that the plastic leaks, or even so much about the money. *My unhappiness and regret is because I feel that EK is deliberately and purposely cheating customers* just to save a few pennies (and they will lose so much more money from the bad word of mouth and lost repeat business.)
> 
> EK needs to make this right, or I'll personally never buy an EK branded product again (and I still need a couple GPU blocks, another rad, hard tubing, fittings... and then I'll start water cooling my second PC.)


I suggest you open a ticket on the EK website and let go of your emotions and demands since I can't do anything more than explain to you that you received a product with some updated components. I agree with you about the fact that the pictures haven't been updated and will let them know.

Feel free to include all the thoughts you also included in the posts after this one....

https://www.ekwb.com/customer-care/


----------



## garyd9

Well, I did as you suggested. Hopefully they respond to it. (They still haven't responded to a query I sent a few weeks ago asking which top can be ordered for your SPC pump to use it without an attached reservoir.) I'd appreciate if you could use your contacts to bring attention to the support ticket (42144) request. Here's the text of my message (with a portion removed for privacy):
Quote:


> I recently purchased a EK-RES X3 150 Reservoir from your authorized reseller, performance-pcs.com in the US. On your web page advertisements for this reservoir, as well as the page for this product on performance-pcs, it is shown and documented as coming with 4 metal (silver color) G1/4 plugs. The image attached to this ticket is from your shopping website and shows the plugs.
> 
> However, the package I received did NOT contain those 4 plugs, nor did it contain the 6mm allen key used to tighten them. Instead, I received 4 black cheap plastic slotted plugs. I've since been informed by your support representative on "overclock.net" that you changed the product some time in the past without changing your advertising.
> 
> This is wrong for many reasons. First, your advertising one thing and actually shipping something else. Second, it cheapens an otherwise nice product. Finally, and most importantly for you (I hope) is that you will lose business because I can no longer trust that an EK branded product will be what it is advertised as being.
> 
> I don't know how much money EK saves by using cheap plastic instead of metal plugs, but I DO know how much business it will cost EK to lose me as a customer. My current shopping list for the next few weeks includes full cover GPU blocks, a 240mm radiator, several fittings for changing to hard tubing, and a full set of water cooling gear for my second PC (pump, reservoir, radiator, fittings, tubing, etc.)
> 
> Please make this right. If you must stay with cheaper plastic, at least advertise properly. As well, you should send the metal plugs to customers were misled by your false advertising. The money you save in using the cheaper plugs can't possibly be more than the money you'll lose in lost customers and lost trust.
> 
> For your reference, I ordered the reservoir via performance-pcs.com (your authorized retailer) in order xxxxxxxxx made on the 21st day of May in the year 2016.


I'll be curious to see if EK's customer service does anything...


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I'm really sorry I didn't see your post last night
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yes you should have the G2 pumps unless they have this component in stock for a long while. The G2 have an EK logo printed on the back sticker of the pump while the previous one didn't. It's a quick visual check that can be done.


No worries. Just got the answer from support faster and thought it was best to post it for posterity.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> This is bad. I'm looking at GPU blocks, and popped on EK's website. I'm looking at a 10x0 FC block, and each time I say to myself "that looks nice", I'm now wondering if I'll actually get what they show on their website. The product page claims the block is made from copper, but perhaps they changed it to aluminum (or plastic!.) It claims that it comes with "2x EK plug G1/4"" and a 6mm allen key, but I already KNOW that they'll switch those items out for cheap plastic. It claims that the product comes with thermal pads, but maybe they are substituting tissue paper to save a few pennies.
> 
> Where does this end? If EK is already swapping out metal parts for plastic (and still advertising metal parts), then is anything I typed above, as far fetched as it sounds, is a possibility.
> 
> EK, I don't run a business, but even I know that if customers can't trust your brand, you might as well go ahead and shut down your business now before bankruptcy pulls you under.
> 
> PLEASE fix this. I _want_ to trust you. I _want_ EK to have great customer service. Please don't take that away from your customers, and please don't take your company away from yourself.


I'm actually shocked that they have made this change so quickly. I had expected that perhaps it would apply only to new models as they are released or that there would be some announcement of some kind. You have every right to be upset and I would be too if I just bought a new res and now it does not fully match all my other EK gear. This is not an insignificant change.

I find it difficult to believe that this is purely a cost cutting measure. In the recent past they have seemed to instead spend money in similar areas. The Original PE rads came with the small silver extension fittings that fit into recessed ports. They were then changed to the larger and better looking recessed port extensions and made them available in three different finishes.
If its an Aesthetic shift its a daft one


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you considered a Copper burnishing kit? They contain copper leaf that you wrap around whatever you wish. Don't sweat the wrinkles. Those will smooth out as you follow the directions supplied with the kits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I had considered it but I only need like 5% of a kit and dont really need to lay anything else in copper.

Anyhow, ended up buying an 1151 mobo with an EK monoblock from a fella so the EVO will be put away or sold once that build is finished.

Thanks for your clever ideas Ceadder!


----------



## velocityx

first they make an easter egg promo that wasted me a full evening of browsing their website for nothing because couldnt find the eggs, now they make 10 percent till tomorrow and i put together a full LC cart and now they say a legendary new products are up from the 31st of may.... what to do? order? or wait for this legendary new thing ?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Alright EK I forgive you for delaying the Aorus block. I thought these weren't shipping until Wednesday, but I received a nice little email at 10:00am this morning telling me that it has been shipped. Being VERY doubtful, I go and check the tracking only to see it has already arrived here in the states and is in Pennsylvania set for delivery on Wednesday. MIND BLOWN. WATER INCOMING









Is this because I paid the $50 for shipping?


----------



## velocityx

Alright I couldn't handle the wait. Just ordered, almost 650 Euro after rebates. So excited!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you considered a Copper burnishing kit? They contain copper leaf that you wrap around whatever you wish. Don't sweat the wrinkles. Those will smooth out as you follow the directions supplied with the kits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had considered it but I only need like 5% of a kit and dont really need to lay anything else in copper.
> 
> Anyhow, ended up buying an 1151 mobo with an EK monoblock from a fella so the EVO will be put away or sold once that build is finished.
> 
> Thanks for your clever ideas Ceadder!
Click to expand...

No problem, always a pleasure to put the old noodle to work and come up with a workable solution for the OCN brotherhood.









I am gonna be getting CVIHero soon as I get my 1800x and 480 paid down with Newegg. So while I would love to take advantage of the 10% EK promo, it's not in the budget atm. So I will have to be patient and wait for the Monoblock to land at PPCs. I have an EVO but I am a full board solution guy. Keeps the systems quieter than relying on fans to blow across the stock heatsinks.

Never know, I may invest in the burnishing kit and anot Acetal top for my own EVO though.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Alright EK I forgive you for delaying the Aorus block. I thought these weren't shipping until Wednesday, but I received a nice little email at 10:00am this morning telling me that it has been shipped. Being VERY doubtful, I go and check the tracking only to see it has already arrived here in the states and is in Pennsylvania set for delivery on Wednesday. MIND BLOWN. WATER INCOMING
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this because I paid the $50 for shipping?


do i see a fellow philadelphian.


----------



## buellersdayoff

PSA- tighten the bolts on your gpu water block.
REASON - using a titan fc wb on a 980ti for close to two years, removing it from my system for upgrades, I found 1 bolt missing and a couple of others loose.
No leaks, no damage, NO GRUDGE with EK. Probably more an oversight on my behalf anyway.

I noticed cooling performance degrading over time which I put down to coolant bypassing the jet due to loose bolts allowing enough flex in the cover. The jet was also askew when I removed the top.

The missing bolt I had found much earlier while changing radiator fans and flushing coolant. I just thought my daughter (3) had taken one from my screw kit and placed it on the floor of my case. Seemed reasonable to me so I never checked my components.

Performance degradation, I thought, was from the possibility of build up in the block hence the flush. In the beginning I would see around 50c but slowly over time was around 60-65c while gaming. EK qa sticker was on the block so you'd think that's enough...but no TIGHTEN YOUR GPU BLOCK BOLTS yourselves before damage occurs

☺bueller


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> do i see a fellow philadelphian.


I'm just a few hours north in MA!


----------



## DarthBaggins

I snugged all my screws as a precaution on all my blocks prior to installation, it's actually a habit for me from working g as an automotive technician for so many years. Alot of times they can loosen in transit and you wouldn't notice until it's too late.


----------



## buellersdayoff

So many people will not check them first before installing, I think they'll work loose from expanding and contracting with heat cycles so it'd be wise to check them after a while also. My mechanic instincts told me too also (out of the trade now) but with the ek sticker I didn't. Pulled my cpu block apart before I used it, the instinct lol


----------



## Ceadderman

I fully advise anyone with a mechanical device to check any point which could fail. Doesn't matter if it's water cooling or otherwise. Makes no sense to simply trust that a part will work right out of the box. I've saved myself a lot of potential headaches by taking this stance over the years.

Also it gets my mechanical brain acclimated to the part in this regard.









~~Ceadder


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I fully advise anyone with a mechanical device to check any point which could fail. Doesn't matter if it's water cooling or otherwise. Makes no sense to simply trust that a part will work right out of the box. I've saved myself a lot of potential headaches by taking this stance over the years.
> 
> Also it gets my mechanical brain acclimated to the part in this regard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~~Ceadder


This exactly. I work in assembly and see many RMA's because of things that should have been caught by QA like loose/missing screws, scratches, or dumb things like that. I always make sure all my water cooling components are properly tightened. That's the first thing I do when I take it out of the box. Then I flush it and using my compressor I blow dry it. Works out well with the rubber end of the air blaster attachment. Just stick the rubber part in the inlet and press down to make a seal and then just let air and gravity do it's work. I've always used this method whith much success.

In other news my Aorus block has been set for early delivery on Tuesday! So excited to throw some Fujipoly Extreme pads and Kryonaut paste on this thing and FINALLY get this card under water after waiting months for that moment. My card already runs really cool (max temp I've seen is 64C, but I usually max out at 60C in demanding games like ME:A and The Witcher 3. Those are the games that I need to lower my overclock for. I usually run 2050/2063 @ 1.093v in those games. All my other games and benches run perfect at 2088/+300mem with 1.093v. I have a feeling that heat is the problem since the OC is fine in every other game I play (Forza Horizon 3, Assassins Creed Syndicate, Crysis 3, Deus Ex:Mankind Divided, etc). in games like those that are constantly bouncing off the 125% power limit the card is subjected to 60C+ temps over periods of time which causes the instability. The block should help these cards immensely.


----------



## HaykOC

Any issues that could arise from using EK and HWLab radiators together? Not sure what metals they are or if they conflict.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HaykOC*
> 
> Any issues that could arise from using EK and HWLab radiators together? Not sure what metals they are or if they conflict.


Nope. HWL is copper.


----------



## HaykOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Nope. HWL is copper.


Thanks.


----------



## DigitrevX

Is this where the EK owners go the sulk for being ripped off?
I feel pretty terrible for getting 5 years out of my old systems loop.
If only I bought XSPC.

Anyways hope to post my new system this month. It's got terrible EK products in it.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

You just have to remember that EK sources from former Yugo parts factories. One day they make car radiator, the next day they make computer radiator.

I've been happy with my EK pumps, tubing and radiators so far *knocks on wood*

The fittings had damaged threads which was "normal" according to customer service, but they threw in some new ones for free. If you want more guaranteed quality, buy German.


----------



## DarthBaggins

German doesn't always mean quality at all, sure I love my AquaComputer and Heatkiller products but Alphacool doesn't follow.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> If you want more guaranteed quality, buy German.


German's are just as capable of producing garbage as anyone else. I seem to remember reading of a lot of problems with recent Alphacool products...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Being previously a mechanic as my profession for 15yrs Germans do make some of the worst vehicles on the market (as do the Brits). But again depends on which vehicle you buy and how mass produced it is.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Being previously a mechanic as my profession for 15yrs Germans do make some of the worst vehicles on the market (as do the Brits). But again depends on which vehicle you buy and how mass produced it is.


Being a "hobbyist" mechanic (enough to work on and fix my own vehicles) and the son of a 30-year mechanic, I'd argue against that. I'd argue they're among the least fun to work on, but, I've had good reliability with the important stuff on VW/Audi cars. My '09 S5 with 90,000 miles is running strong ((KNOCKS ON WOOD LOL)). The worst repair so far was the cooling fan and thermostat.

THAT BEING SAID, I love all my EK parts I've had. Never had any leaks or any majorly concerning issues with quality control. But my latest pump (EK DDC 3.2 PWM) did die about a year after purchasing. Which is unfortunate to say the least.


----------



## Jyve

I've had no issues with my little experience with ek. Even being an owner of the predator 240. I had no problems with the original version but swapped it out for the recall with the 1.1 and no issues there either. Recently made the move to a full custom loop and can say all is good to go there with the their D5 pump res combo and pe 360 rad. Also have several angled fittings and they're going strong as well.

I'm concerned with some of their cost cutting changes they've made and some of the more recent CS stories I've heard.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Being a "hobbyist" mechanic (enough to work on and fix my own vehicles) and the son of a 30-year mechanic, I'd argue against that. I'd argue they're among the least fun to work on, but, I've had good reliability with the important stuff on VW/Audi cars. My '09 S5 with 90,000 miles is running strong ((KNOCKS ON WOOD LOL)). The worst repair so far was the cooling fan and thermostat.
> 
> THAT BEING SAID, I love all my EK parts I've had. Never had any leaks or any majorly concerning issues with quality control. But my latest pump (EK DDC 3.2 PWM) did die about a year after purchasing. Which is unfortunate to say the least.


I don't count an S5 as a mass produced German vehicle, the A4, BMW 3-series (minus M's), Mercedes C-class are what I consider the mass produced that carry the most issues. But again Im guessing you haven't had to replace a alternator on a 3.0l Audi/VW and even worse is replacing a starter on a BMW 3-series.
Im a big fan of EK's products minus the MX block I had that leaked after 3mo of use, but that showed me to spend the extra money to go with the EVO. I've had a single 90 adapter leak as well but I expect issues with fittings due to the age of rubber on the o-rings etc


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I don't count an S5 as a mass produced German vehicle, the A4, BMW 3-series (minus M's), Mercedes C-class are what I consider the mass produced that carry the most issues. But again Im guessing you haven't had to replace a alternator on a 3.0l Audi/VW and even worse is replacing a starter on a BMW 3-series.
> Im a big fan of EK's products minus the MX block I had that leaked after 3mo of use, but that showed me to spend the extra money to go with the EVO. I've had a single 90 adapter leak as well but I expect issues with fittings due to the age of rubber on the o-rings etc


I haven't done much work on the 3.0's. But I do know for the supercharged 3.0's basically to do anything the supercharger comes off lol

I had an 01' Jetta with the 1.8T, wasn't a bad car. Just liked to burn oil and had a check engine light for an air pump that would never go away.


----------



## DigitrevX

I was actually joking guys. EK does a pretty good job with their products.
I only once had a rad develop a leak from them. Otherwise Ek has been pretty flawless to me.
Also they market like bosses.

Also I had a 1.8t at one point in my life. It was a ok car. I modded it and it eventually developed issues. I think mainly due to shop employee's abusing it when it went in for work. Now I'm a subaru sti owner. Kinda happy with it.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> I was actually joking guys. EK does a pretty good job with their products.
> I only once had a rad develop a leak from them. Otherwise Ek has been pretty flawless to me.
> Also they market like bosses.
> 
> Also I had a 1.8t at one point in my life. It was a ok car. I modded it and it eventually developed issues. I think mainly due to shop employee's abusing it when it went in for work. Now I'm a subaru sti owner. Kinda happy with it.


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quick question to EK and others who might have purchased a stand-alone EK reservoir: The res comes with plugs for the extra ports on the caps of the reservoir, and both the pictures on the EK website and the documentation reflect that these are metal plugs that are tightened with a hex key.
> 
> The plugs that came with mine were black plastic things with slots (similar to really, wide flat-head screwdriver slots) for tightening. (They feel cheap, but will probably plug the holes just as well.)
> 
> If this is a product change, EK really should update both their website and the product documentation.


I bought a FC dual terminal last week on performance PCs.
It came with plastic plugs

They look like crap and mar any time you try to remove them.

This is nothing more than a moneygrab by EK.


----------



## Ceadderman

I suggest the dual 90 rotary connection. Won't do parallel but will work in multi GPU setups. However the price increase may make it a non sequitur for those with more than 2 cards.









I honestly hope they stop with plastic plugs until they learn to ship multi port parts with the right amount of metal and plastic plugs. I get the cost saving measures, but it is ridiculous that a part that requires metal plugs, come with plastic instead. Radiators should come with plastic. GPU should come with 2 metal and 2 plastic. CPU and RAM blocks don't come with any at all.

It's not a money grab though. The € is pretty low compared to where it was against the US$ a few years ago. Where it site right now is forcing EU companies to tighten their belts. EK is smack dab in the middle of it. I hope it doesn't hit MDPC this hard, but I don't doubt they're feeling the pinch as well.

Hopefully my thoughts on what should and should not come with metal plugs makes it back to Edvard.









~Ceadder


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Aours 1080 Ti block is installed!! I can FINALLY put my side panel back on!


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Aours 1080 Ti block is installed!! I can FINALLY put my side panel back on!


Congrats. Also love seeing another zmt user!


----------



## Mora

Looks good, how does it perform?

Another ZMT user here too


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Congrats. Also love seeing another zmt user!


Thanks, I love the ZMT tubing. Great stuff to work with. I know everyone is all into the acrylic and while it does look pretty, I look at my monitor more than my computer!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mora*
> 
> Looks good, how does it perform?
> 
> Another ZMT user here too


Performance is out of this world. Max temp before the block was 64C with 100% fan speed. After putting on the block with Kyronaut Fujipoly Extreme pads I was seeing a max temp of 39C!!! I can finally hold 2100 @ 1.081v now! I wonder what I could do with 1.093v.. hmmmm



EDIT: 2126/6107 @ 1.093v!


----------



## akira749

EK Fluid Gaming sets a new standard for Water cooling!


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK Fluid Gaming sets a new standard for Water cooling!


Aluminum. EK has gone over to the dark side.

Is EK going to start substituting aluminum parts in the mainstream products as well now (like they did with plastic plugs?)


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Aluminum. EK has gone over to the dark side.
> 
> Is EK going to start substituting aluminum parts in the mainstream products as well now (like they did with plastic plugs?)


Just got the mail. Exactly what I was thinking.

Maybe it's ok to use aluminum in those kits because I believe every component is Alu, but you can't upgrade to larger rads, or higher performing blocks without changing everything.

The price is low though.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Aluminum. EK has gone over to the dark side.
> 
> Is EK going to start substituting aluminum parts in the mainstream products as well now (like they did with plastic plugs?)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Just got the mail. Exactly what I was thinking.
> 
> Maybe it's ok to use aluminum in those kits because I believe every component is Alu, but you can't upgrade to larger rads, or higher performing blocks without changing everything.
> 
> The price is low though.


There's nothing wrong with aluminum components. What's wrong is to mix them with copper components.

Since the new kits are all Aluminum, they will be fine and perform very well.

Nothing will change is our regular products....Fluid Gaming is a new brand in itself.

The blocks will perform well even if they are made of Aluminum


----------



## zeroibis

Man the last aluminum parts I remember was back in the innovatek days.


----------



## iamjanco

Any update/confirmation on when EK might open preorders for the FTW3 block? How about when they'll start shipping?


----------



## garyd9

I'm not trying to attack EK here, but am trying to offer constructive criticism. (If it appears as an attack, please pardon me... I tend to be a blunt person.)

EK seems to be following a pattern of getting cheaper and cheaper. This entry into the low cost aluminum radiator/block space is making me second guess if EK is a "quality" brand. Will the successor to the "predator" line be some cheap aluminum radiator and copper block mix similar to the crud that Asetek puts out?

This wouldn't be so bad if EK wasn't dragging it's existing product line down into lower qualities at the same time. It started (?) with the replacement of cheap plastic plugs instead of higher quality metal ones (and they _still_ advertise the metal plugs as coming with the product even after the complaints here and via the EK support links.) Now that EK has an aluminum line, are they going to start sneaking aluminum pieces into the existing products? I'd hope not, but how can anyone be sure?

Again, I'm NOT trying to attack or degrade EK here. I'm trying to show the thought process of a customer and how these changes can influence a customer's buying decisions. Of course, I'm not sure who EK has targeted as a "customer" anymore. Is EK trying to get the enthusiast water cooler who is willing to spend whatever it takes to get a quality system, or is EK trying to attract with the person who buys a branded Asetek AiO system?

I'm only a few months into my current trip into water cooling, but I already have a very significant amount of money invested in EK products. Have I made a mistake?


----------



## VSG

That would be a reason for concern if that was all they were doing, but this is a separate brand for the company and the rest of their product lines remain unaffected. I have all three of those kits here and there are so many warnings everywhere about not mixing metals, and these only being sold as a kit and not separately also tells me they are taking it seriously. They better too, as customers will just complain even if they mixed metals and it was their fault. So far I haven't seen anything wrong as far as the Fluid Gaming kits go.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> I'm not trying to attack EK here, but am trying to offer constructive criticism. (If it appears as an attack, please pardon me... I tend to be a blunt person.)
> 
> EK seems to be following a pattern of getting cheaper and cheaper. This entry into the low cost aluminum radiator/block space is making me second guess if EK is a "quality" brand. Will the successor to the "predator" line be some cheap aluminum radiator and copper block mix similar to the crud that Asetek puts out?
> 
> This wouldn't be so bad if EK wasn't dragging it's existing product line down into lower qualities at the same time. It started (?) with the replacement of cheap plastic plugs instead of higher quality metal ones (and they _still_ advertise the metal plugs as coming with the product even after the complaints here and via the EK support links.) Now that EK has an aluminum line, are they going to start sneaking aluminum pieces into the existing products? I'd hope not, but how can anyone be sure?
> 
> Again, I'm NOT trying to attack or degrade EK here. I'm trying to show the thought process of a customer and how these changes can influence a customer's buying decisions. Of course, I'm not sure who EK has targeted as a "customer" anymore. Is EK trying to get the enthusiast water cooler who is willing to spend whatever it takes to get a quality system, or is EK trying to attract with the person who buys a branded Asetek AiO system?
> 
> I'm only a few months into my current trip into water cooling, but I already have a very significant amount of money invested in EK products. Have I made a mistake?


We are not going cheap.............in your mind yes but I decided to stop trying since it appears that we are a done deal for you.

We don't target any specific profiles of customers....we're trying to target them all.

For the big enthusiasts, we always had our main products to build custom loops. AND IT WON'T CHANGE OR GO AWAY.
Almost 2 years ago we venture into the world of AIO's with our Predator line-up. We had our ups and downs with it but we managed. This was to target customers who were interested with the enthusiasts components but didn't wanted to build a loop from the ground up.
Today with the Fluid Gaming line up, we are targeting the other enthusiasts...the ones who are more on a budget but still want quality products to cool their systems....totally different crowd.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Any update/confirmation on when EK might open preorders for the FTW3 block? How about when they'll start shipping?


Not yet, and it doesn't mean we'll have pre-orders. The Aorus block didn't had a pre-order period.


----------



## whitrzac

I was pretty much told to pound sand after contacting EKs support about the ghetto plastic plugs they're including rather than the advertised nickle platted. They are refusing to supply the proper nickle plugs as advertised for the FC-Dual that I bought.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> I was pretty much told to pound sand after contacting EKs support about the ghetto plastic plugs they're including rather than the advertised nickle platted. They are refusing to supply the proper nickle plugs as advertised for the FC-Dual that I bought.


I already reported to the Manager at the HQ that we should update our product pictures and description about this. I hope it will be done quickly.


----------



## Kutalion

I dont see what the big fuss is about. I got plenty of both and actually prefer the black new ones aesthetially. As far as quality is concerned, i also see no problem with the new ones


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> I dont see what the big fuss is about. I got plenty of both and actually prefer the black new ones aesthetially. As far as quality is concerned, i also see no problem with the new ones


False advertising.
Cheapening their products while charging the same/more.
They mar just taking them out.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We are not going cheap.............in your mind yes but I decided to stop trying since it appears that we are a done deal for you.
> ...
> For the big enthusiasts, we always had our main products to build custom loops. *AND IT WON'T CHANGE OR GO AWAY*.


While I'm amused that EK (or at least you) have decided to not bother with me as a customer anymore (a done deal?), I still am (or at least I potentially still am.) If I wasn't interested, I wouldn't be bothering to waste my time with these posts. (It really takes me a considerable amount of effort to communicate with people. heh.. ) As well, if I was a "done deal", I'd also have initiated RMA's with performance-pcs.com to return the items instead of trying to resolve the discrepancies. (while consumer protection laws in the US are a joke compared to places like the EU, even here advertising metal and selling plastic is a Bad Thing.)

The point I made bold above is what I'm trying to get EK to address. How can it be said that it "won't change or go away" at the same time as existing products are being downgraded with cheaper materials? As a representative of EK who admitted in a previous post to be powerless to actually address concerns, how can you in good faith state that things won't change or go away? Is that an official company position? Is it posted on the ekwb.com website?

Again, and I really want to make this very clear, I'm not trying to attack you or EK. I'd really much prefer to get my concerns communicated and have them addressed in a professional manner. As I've already stated, I *want EK to succeed.*


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> While I'm amused that EK (or at least you) have decided to not bother with me as a customer anymore (a done deal?), I still am (or at least I potentially still am.) If I wasn't interested, I wouldn't be bothering to waste my time with these posts. (It really takes me a considerable amount of effort to communicate with people. heh.. ) As well, if I was a "done deal", I'd also have initiated RMA's with performance-pcs.com to return the items instead of trying to resolve the discrepancies. (while consumer protection laws in the US are a joke compared to places like the EU, even here advertising metal and selling plastic is a Bad Thing.)
> 
> The point I made bold above is what I'm trying to get EK to address. How can it be said that it "won't change or go away" at the same time as existing products are being downgraded with cheaper materials? As a representative of EK who admitted in a previous post to be powerless to actually address concerns, how can you in good faith state that things won't change or go away? Is that an official company position? Is it posted on the ekwb.com website?
> 
> Again, and I really want to make this very clear, I'm not trying to attack you or EK. I'd really much prefer to get my concerns communicated and have them addressed in a professional manner. As I've already stated, I *want EK to succeed.*


I apologize to have said that but you keep saying that we're cheap and liars so I assumed that you had you made you mind about us. Anyway my apologies again. I also thought that because I've never seen any positive comments about EK so I assume that everything we do is crap in your eyes. Again I might have assume wrong.

I said "won't change or go away" not because it's a company statement or anything but simply because we won't stop making our flagship copper CPU and GPU blocks because we are trying a new market with our Fluid Gaming brand.

When Computex is done and the guys are back at work directly at the HQ, I will reiterate the fact that they have to fix the problem with the products images and description.


----------



## Leudast

Hey all, I've got a question(s) for you.

I'm planning a new build to replace my aging gaming setup in my sig. I've been an AIO user for my past couple builds but I feel like I want to get fancy. Planning on going with the new i7-7820x. I got excited with EK's announcement about their new Aluminum coolers... but upon further reading I think I can do better. Here's the questions:


How is the EK P280 kit? Seems like the perfect fit for me for jumping onto the water cooling game.
I've heard that the LGA 2066 is compatible with the 2011 socket coolers, but can't find anywhere that states that. Any help here?
Any foreseeable problems installing that P280 into a Corsair Carbide Air 540? Says it will support a 280mm rad, but just want to make sure.
Thanks!


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leudast*
> 
> Hey all, I've got a question(s) for you.
> 
> I'm planning a new build to replace my aging gaming setup in my sig. I've been an AIO user for my past couple builds but I feel like I want to get fancy. Planning on going with the new i7-7820x. I got excited with EK's announcement about their new Aluminum coolers... but upon further reading I think I can do better. Here's the questions:
> 
> 
> How is the EK P280 kit? Seems like the perfect fit for me for jumping onto the water cooling game.
> I've heard that the LGA 2066 is compatible with the 2011 socket coolers, but can't find anywhere that states that. Any help here?
> Any foreseeable problems installing that P280 into a Corsair Carbide Air 540? Says it will support a 280mm rad, but just want to make sure.
> Thanks!


I've installed the X360 in the 540 air. http://www.overclock.net/t/1404897/official-corsair-carbide-air-540-owners-club-gallery/11340#post_24655480


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Can't wait to see Threadripper waterblocks from EK! (OK, I know the platform itself is yet to be released...)


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leudast*
> 
> Hey all, I've got a question(s) for you.
> 
> I'm planning a new build to replace my aging gaming setup in my sig. I've been an AIO user for my past couple builds but I feel like I want to get fancy. Planning on going with the new i7-7820x. I got excited with EK's announcement about their new Aluminum coolers... but upon further reading I think I can do better. Here's the questions:
> 
> 
> How is the EK P280 kit? Seems like the perfect fit for me for jumping onto the water cooling game.
> I've heard that the LGA 2066 is compatible with the 2011 socket coolers, but can't find anywhere that states that. Any help here?
> Any foreseeable problems installing that P280 into a Corsair Carbide Air 540? Says it will support a 280mm rad, but just want to make sure.
> Thanks!


i bought the P-280 kit last fall to start WCing and for me it just seemed perfect. though since then i realized a 45mm (really 47mm?)thick 280mm rad is a little tough to stick in the top of a mid tower except w/good offset for mounting but i doubt your cube case will have an issue. added a uni block on my gpu and looking to think of another rad when i find another cheap case. pump res combo won't have an issue.

can't say about socket compatibility though.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> I've installed the X360 in the 540 air. http://www.overclock.net/t/1404897/official-corsair-carbide-air-540-owners-club-gallery/11340#post_24655480


In another thread, I broke with conventional wisdom and suggested AGAINST a kit. I'm still convinced that a kit isn't the best possible choice. Here's what I'd suggest:

Find a kit that you think might be a close fit, and check the entire list of parts that comes with it. For each piece, decide if you'd want to change it. If there's a single piece in the kit that you'd change, you'll save money NOT using a kit.

Too often, those newer to custom loops will get a kit because we aren't certain we'll get the right parts, or we want something that we know will work as a unit. Then, as soon as we have to together, we might think that perhaps we'd also want a graphics card block. Then, a bigger (or additional) radiator might be needed to cool the extra heat from the GPU. Then a better pump might be in order because the kit one isn't powerful enough or it's too noisy.

Another (perhaps better) route would be to go to EKWB's website and click the link for their configuration tool. Go through it answering the questions not for what you want to initially install, but for what you think you might LIKE to have in a few months. It's easier (and cheaper) to plan ahead like this. You don't have to buy all the parts immediately. However, I'd strongly suggest taking the recommendations from EK's tool, and then posting a new thread on here telling us what you want immediately, what you want in the near future, and what the tool suggested. The folks here will explain what you should buy now and what items to wait on (and they'll tell you why.) (In your post, also include what case you have, what CPU you're using, what motherboard, etc. More information is better.)

Remember that there's nothing magical about a custom loop kit. It's only an outer box with the word "kit" that contains the EXACT SAME PARTS that you'd buy separately. Oh, the kit also has a nice booklet telling you how to put the parts together. However, EK makes that available as a free download from their website.

Finally, don't let my complaining about EK on this thread distract you.


----------



## Leudast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> I've installed the X360 in the 540 air. http://www.overclock.net/t/1404897/official-corsair-carbide-air-540-owners-club-gallery/11340#post_24655480


Thanks for that link! Looks good, although I'm leaning more towards a top mounted radiator. However with a 45mm thickness I don't know if that will fit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i bought the P-280 kit last fall to start WCing and for me it just seemed perfect. though since then i realized a 45mm (really 47mm?)thick 280mm rad is a little tough to stick in the top of a mid tower except w/good offset for mounting but i doubt your cube case will have an issue. added a uni block on my gpu and looking to think of another rad when i find another cheap case. pump res combo won't have an issue.
> 
> can't say about socket compatibility though.


Yeah, the 45mm rad I think will have trouble mounting to the top, considering how close it will get to the RAM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> In another thread, I broke with conventional wisdom and suggested AGAINST a kit. I'm still convinced that a kit isn't the best possible choice. Here's what I'd suggest:
> 
> Find a kit that you think might be a close fit, and check the entire list of parts that comes with it. For each piece, decide if you'd want to change it. If there's a single piece in the kit that you'd change, you'll save money NOT using a kit.
> 
> Too often, those newer to custom loops will get a kit because we aren't certain we'll get the right parts, or we want something that we know will work as a unit. Then, as soon as we have to together, we might think that perhaps we'd also want a graphics card block. Then, a bigger (or additional) radiator might be needed to cool the extra heat from the GPU. Then a better pump might be in order because the kit one isn't powerful enough or it's too noisy.
> 
> Another (perhaps better) route would be to go to EKWB's website and click the link for their configuration tool. Go through it answering the questions not for what you want to initially install, but for what you think you might LIKE to have in a few months. It's easier (and cheaper) to plan ahead like this. You don't have to buy all the parts immediately. However, I'd strongly suggest taking the recommendations from EK's tool, and then posting a new thread on here telling us what you want immediately, what you want in the near future, and what the tool suggested. The folks here will explain what you should buy now and what items to wait on (and they'll tell you why.) (In your post, also include what case you have, what CPU you're using, what motherboard, etc. More information is better.)
> 
> Remember that there's nothing magical about a custom loop kit. It's only an outer box with the word "kit" that contains the EXACT SAME PARTS that you'd buy separately. Oh, the kit also has a nice booklet telling you how to put the parts together. However, EK makes that available as a free download from their website.
> 
> Finally, don't let my complaining about EK on this thread distract you.


Really appreciate the response! It makes sense that the kit is nothing but separate parts that you can buy separately. I'll definitely look into everything they have to offer and do my homework. Also appreciate your suggestion about posting my potential build so others can weigh in, that's what I love about this forum.


----------



## Jyve

I'm going to have to agree on the kit. If the kit contains everything you'd personally choose then hop on it! If there is anything down to the fittings or even tubing, then piece meal it. Their premium kit with the D5 combo does look pretty sweet as far as kits go though.


----------



## Leudast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I'm going to have to agree on the kit. If the kit contains everything you'd personally choose then hop on it! If there is anything down to the fittings or even tubing, then piece meal it. Their premium kit with the D5 combo does look pretty sweet as far as kits go though.


If I could pick your brain for a minute. I wanted to do a top mounted radiator, however the 45mm ones are going to be too thick to clear the ram I believe (Corsair 540). I think I'd have to piece it out to go with the 240 slim (25mm thick) in this case. Am I losing a lot of performance with a slimmer radiator? I just want this for CPU cooling. On the other hand, if I do decide to hook up a GPU to the loop, I'm guessing the slim radiator will be insufficient?


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leudast*
> 
> If I could pick your brain for a minute. I wanted to do a top mounted radiator, however the 45mm ones are going to be too thick to clear the ram I believe (Corsair 540). I think I'd have to piece it out to go with the 240 slim (25mm thick) in this case. Am I losing a lot of performance with a slimmer radiator? I just want this for CPU cooling. On the other hand, if I do decide to hook up a GPU to the loop, I'm guessing the slim radiator will be insufficient?


As a radiator gets thicker, there are diminishing returns. All things being equal, a 60mm thick rad will perform better than a 30mm radiator, but NOT twice as good. As well, the thicker radiator will usually require spinning your fans faster (for more noise.) The following is a link to a very extensive radiator comparison article for 360mm rads. I know it's not the size your looking at, but you can pick up some good "generic" information from the article in regards to thinner vs thicker:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/

One point you can pick up from that article is that the EK slim radiators tend to be lesser performers compared to other slim radiators. On the other hand, EK's thicker radiators tend to be better performers. (I know this is the "ek club" thread, and I'm sure people assume I'm bashing EK, but I'm trying to give unbiased info.)

This is yet another reason to not going with a kit: By buying parts, you can get the best of everything even when they are of different brands.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Hello everyone,

i'm brand new here, but when i stumbled across this thread i had to take a look inside.

Why?

Well, you know sometimes, things just get out of hand, like, completly, utterly out of hand. What started as a tiny attempt to cool my 1080ti a bit better with new paste and pads went through several unfullfiling stages and finaly, after more then 10 years of going without, lead to me getting a full-fledged custom watercolling loop again. People over in the "Gigabyte AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Owner's"-thread where putting their cards "under water" with the newly released EK blocks for that card and got so amazing cooling and overclocks with these, that my sense of responsibility took a nap and left me doing whatever i wanted on the EKWB website.

As a result, i ordered the following "few" parts ...

EK-FB ASUS M8G Monoblock - Nickel
EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus - Nickel
EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus Backplate - Black
EK-CoolStream XE 240 (Double)
EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Triple)
EK-Vardar F4-120ER (2200rpm) (x3)
EK-Vardar F3-140ER (2000rpm) (x2)
EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi (incl. sleeved pump)
EK-RES X3 150
EK-DuraClear 11,1/15,9mm 3M RETAIL (x2)
EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Red (x14)
EK-CryoFuel Blood Red Concentrate 100 mL (x2)
EK-Cable Y-Splitter 2-Fan PWM (10cm) (x2)
EK-ATX Bridging Plug (24 pin)

(Actually, i had to order the EK-CoolStream PE 360 from another shop, because EKWB themselves didn't have it in stock.)

So, hopefully mid next week all of this nice water cooling equipment will go into a Corsair Obsidian 750D tower and cool my stuff alot better than it is now (system is linked below). Of course i'll do a fancy build report with pictures and all the experience made during the build. I am looking forward to my first wc setup after 10 years and can't wait to get started building it!


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leudast*
> 
> If I could pick your brain for a minute. I wanted to do a top mounted radiator, however the 45mm ones are going to be too thick to clear the ram I believe (Corsair 540). I think I'd have to piece it out to go with the 240 slim (25mm thick) in this case. Am I losing a lot of performance with a slimmer radiator? I just want this for CPU cooling. On the other hand, if I do decide to hook up a GPU to the loop, I'm guessing the slim radiator will be insufficient?


While the slim ek rad does perform worse than most if not all other slims, it is a pretty small amount. A few degrees.

A slim 240 would cool your cpu just fine but yeah I wouldn't bank on it being able to cool both the cpu and gpu. The EK pe rad is something like 38mm think or so. Not quite 45. I was able to cool my oc'd 4690k and 980ti with a single 240 pe and currently cooling the same with a single 360 pe.


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> While the slim ek rad does perform worse than most if not all other slims, it is a pretty small amount. A few degrees.
> 
> A slim 240 would cool your cpu just fine but yeah I wouldn't bank on it being able to cool both the cpu and gpu. The EK pe rad is something like 38mm think or so. Not quite 45. I was able to cool my oc'd 4690k and 980ti with a single 240 pe and currently cooling the same with a single 360 pe.


I believe the reason for the shroud to fin core gap in depth is by design to distribute the air better specially behind the fans dead spots.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Another Happy EK user. Forgive the Alphacool 360 rad, I salvaged it from my Eisbauer kit.


----------



## vvv850

The PE240 fits alongside the XE360 in the Carbide 540 air. You won't be able to go with a push pull config on the XE (you need to remove the top pull fan) and neither on the PE (due to ram, MB shrouds, etc).


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> As a radiator gets thicker, there are diminishing returns. All things being equal, a 60mm thick rad will perform better than a 30mm radiator, but NOT twice as good. As well, the thicker radiator will usually require spinning your fans faster (for more noise.) The following is a link to a very extensive radiator comparison article for 360mm rads. I know it's not the size your looking at, but you can pick up some good "generic" information from the article in regards to thinner vs thicker:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/
> 
> One point you can pick up from that article is that the EK slim radiators tend to be lesser performers compared to other slim radiators. On the other hand, EK's thicker radiators tend to be better performers. (I know this is the "ek club" thread, and I'm sure people assume I'm bashing EK, but I'm trying to give unbiased info.)
> 
> This is yet another reason to not going with a kit: By buying parts, you can get the best of everything even when they are of different brands.


If we are talking EK the thicker the rad the lower the FPI according to their product line. FPI is what makes noise and restricts the fan and requires higher fan speed.
Their slimmest rad is 22 fpi while their thickest rad is 16fpi. So with identical fan speeds, real difference is the noise with their product line. You don't have to actually crank your fans up just because it's thicker.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> If we are talking EK the thicker the rad the lower the FPI according to their product line. FPI is what makes noise and restricts the fan and requires higher fan speed.
> Their slimmest rad is 22 fpi while their thickest rad is 16fpi. So with identical fan speeds, real difference is the noise with their product line. You don't have to actually crank your fans up just because it's thicker.


First, I was only trying to summarize the information in the article linked. Don't shoot the messenger. I made specific reference to only EK's SE model and XE model as they were both were extremes in the linked tests.

Second, the various FPI numbers are nice in theory, but the tests in the article are more reflective of reality. While the EK SE360 (slim) performed poorly in all their tests, the PE performed better than the XE for low push only fan speeds - which contradicts your suggestion that "you don't have to actually crank your fans up just because it's thicker."


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> First, I was only trying to summarize the information in the article linked. Don't shoot the messenger. I made specific reference to only EK's SE model and XE model as they were both were extremes in the linked tests.
> 
> Second, the various FPI numbers are nice in theory, but the tests in the article are more reflective of reality. While the EK SE360 (slim) performed poorly in all their tests, the PE performed better than the XE for low push only fan speeds - which contradicts your suggestion that "you don't have to actually crank your fans up just because it's thicker."


Oh reality being in county fair project box test bench. Gotcha

I believe I said "crank" your fans. That translates to making them loud for no reason. I don't recall many fans getting loud at 750 rpm so I don't consider that "cranked". Using the data you linked: Lets be clear the PE beat the XE by a 5.7watt margin and pretty tame fan speed.

Not shooting the messenger, but what I'm trying to say take reviews with a grain of salt. Everything and anything can matter. Here's a review were this dude found some different results. 




FPI isn't a theory it's actually impacting everything about the radiator's behavior.
If you look at the restriction chart, the SE is way more restrictive then the PE and XE yet it's a fraction the depth due to the FPI. On the other hand the PE is less restrictive then the XE due to the fact the XE has a little depth. Depth can add restriction but with a combination of FPI it can be hugely restrictive then the fattest rad you can think of. The SE is a example.

Also I should mention there are revisions of all EK rads. That data was in actually done before Feb 2015.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> Oh reality being in county fair project box test bench. Gotcha


WOW. You just are a very disagreeable person, aren't you. You seem to even invent things to disagree with!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> I believe I said "crank" your fans. That translates to making them loud for no reason. I don't recall many fans getting loud at 750 rpm so I don't consider that "cranked". Using the data you linked: Lets be clear the PE beat the XE by a 5.7watt margin and pretty tame fan speed.


You believe wrong. Please at least spend the time to read the posts you respond to (and attack) before replying. "crank" was the term YOU used. My term was "usually require spinning your fans faster" Go ahead and read the post again. It's here: http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/19780#post_26132861
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> Not shooting the messenger, but what I'm trying to say take reviews with a grain of salt. Everything and anything can matter. Here's a review were this dude found some different results.


Great. Then post that and move on. Don't attack. The radiator reviews from xtremerigs.net are very detailed and extensive. While they might not be perfect, I'm going to put more stock in their scientific methods than you counting fins. Sorry, but actual tests tend to have a closer base in reality than "it has more fins!"

If you want to bring actual tests to the thread, I'm sure everyone is interested. I know I am. In fact, I'll be checking that youtube video you linked after I post this.

That being said, I'm going to drop this chain in this thread. You're obviously just looking for someone to argue with, and I have neither the time nor the patience to deal with trolls.

Have a nice day









Take care
Gary


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> If we are talking EK the thicker the rad the lower the FPI according to their product line. FPI is what makes noise and restricts the fan and requires higher fan speed.
> Their slimmest rad is 22 fpi while their thickest rad is 16fpi. So with identical fan speeds, real difference is the noise with their product line. You don't have to actually crank your fans up just because it's thicker.


Depends on the Pressure from the fans, thicker but not denser rad you will still need to up the fan speed but a small margin or else the final section of the fins wont be cooled as well as the first section. Denser fins or not the air has to travel a further distance.

When it comes to rad thickness for me it's just what application I would be using and the space I have, if I have room then I would just run EK PE with 800-1000 rpm fans w/ a minimal 2.5 -3.2 on pressure

Plan on swapping from me XSPC EX to a EK PE eventually or go back to my HWL GTX (older gen w/ gloss coating).


----------



## Ceadderman

Loved my old Stealth GT. But chose to go with one 360PE and two 360SE Rads for this build.

I must say the quality of EK Rads are nice, but have a little flex to them over my old trusty Stealth II. That thing is/was built like a tank. I'm not sure what the surrounding metal is on the EK units(aluminum mebbe?), but for feedback concerns I would like to see something stiffer used in the future. Don't get me wrong, the Rads will be stiff enough with fans mounted and mounted to a case. But bare, handling-wise they easily flex around the core. I handle my parts pretty gently and the first SE that I got easily flexed when it's handled.









I'm not bad mouthing the quality, just thought this information could be helpful for the brand.









~Ceadder


----------



## DigitrevX

Gary[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> WOW. You just are a very disagreeable person, aren't you. You seem to even invent things to disagree with!
> You believe wrong. Please at least spend the time to read the posts you respond to (and attack) before replying. "crank" was the term YOU used. My term was "usually require spinning your fans faster" Go ahead and read the post again. It's here: http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/19780#post_26132861
> Great. Then post that and move on. Don't attack. The radiator reviews from xtremerigs.net are very detailed and extensive. While they might not be perfect, I'm going to put more stock in their scientific methods than you counting fins. Sorry, but actual tests tend to have a closer base in reality than "it has more fins!"
> 
> If you want to bring actual tests to the thread, I'm sure everyone is interested. I know I am. In fact, I'll be checking that youtube video you linked after I post this.
> 
> That being said, I'm going to drop this chain in this thread. You're obviously just looking for someone to argue with, and I have neither the time nor the patience to deal with trolls.
> 
> Have a nice day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take care
> Gary


I'm not sure what other definition of cranking a logical person can come up with other then "yeah they spin faster dummy". But ok, I guess you can't handle any jargon.
I actually didn't attack you, if you take the time to re-read my first post to you. You immediately responded super defensive with "First, blah blah, Second blah blah" like it was already an argument. So please.

I've seen that link before 5 times, thanks for bringing us old news. /slowclap I mean cmon its from Feb 2015.
I linked you to a guy that did his own test. He did not talk about his testing methods like the extreme rig's guys. But I'm showing you to tell you not everyone agree's.


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Depends on the Pressure from the fans, thicker but not denser rad you will still need to up the fan speed but a small margin or else the final section of the fins wont be cooled as well as the first section. Denser fins or not the air has to travel a further distance.
> When it comes to rad thickness for me it's just what application I would be using and the space I have, if I have room then I would just run EK PE with 800-1000 rpm fans w/ a minimal 2.5 -3.2 on pressure
> 
> Plan on swapping from me XSPC EX to a EK PE eventually or go back to my HWL GTX (older gen w/ gloss coating).


That makes 100% sense to me.
I realize the fans might have to run a bit faster on a thicker rad but, (and again I don't want to use the wrong words) the fan speed doesn't need to be increased as much as people let on. Which I think is a common misconception. A little yes, a lot no.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Hey,

the first single part of my new custom loop arrived to day ... the one part i didn't order directly at EKWB, the PE360, because it wasn't in stock. So i ordered the radiator at german etailer who had it in stock and it was just delivered.

And i wasn't prepared for what i found inside the radiator. My last wc-build was more then 13 years ago, got everything vom AquaComputer back then. And the first thing you had to do was flush your radiators. Drill-leftovers, oil, colour, cleaning agents, dirt ... the radiators in those days (regardless of manufacturer) had all kinds of ***** in them. So i was more then sceptical when i read that EKWB rads came preflushed and that there was no need to do so ... yeah right....









Yeah, right! I boiled up some destilled water, filled the rad to ~3/4, closed the holes and did a mighty 5 minute water cleaning dance. When i finaly opend the holes and poured the water into a bowl, there was ... nothing, literaly nothing inside the water. It was as crystal clear as it came from the distilled bottle. No oilfilm, no floating lint, no colour/tint to the water, no small particles or debris or whatsoever. Just to make sure i repeated the "water dance" once more, with the same result. I don't know if that has become industry standard by now, but i was utterly impressed. Not that i will skip the flush on the 240 i am still awaiting, but having such a result on the first flush realy makes it quick and easy to get it done and not spend1-2 hours with cleaning your rads like 13 years ago.

Great final inspection and QA on EKWB'S part here









What are your experiences? Did i just get lucky, or is this defacto the quality you can expect these days?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Loved my old Stealth GT. But chose to go with one 360PE and two 360SE Rads for this build.
> 
> I must say the quality of EK Rads are nice, but have a little flex to them over my old trusty Stealth II. That thing is/was built like a tank. *I'm not sure what the surrounding metal is on the EK units(aluminum mebbe?)*, but for feedback concerns I would like to see something stiffer used in the future. Don't get me wrong, the Rads will be stiff enough with fans mounted and mounted to a case. But bare, handling-wise they easily flex around the core. I handle my parts pretty gently and the first SE that I got easily flexed when it's handled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not bad mouthing the quality, just thought this information could be helpful for the brand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yes, the external shroud is made out of aluminum. I agree the because of it removable feature, it adds flex in the assembly.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes, the external shroud is made out of aluminum. I agree the because of it removable feature, it adds flex in the assembly.


Would there be a possibility of having NVME SSD waterblocks?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Would there be a possibility of having NVME SSD waterblocks?


The only one we have is this one : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-i750-ssd

I didn't heard anything about having others for now.


----------



## Mora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> the first single part of my new custom loop arrived to day ... the one part i didn't order directly at EKWB, the PE360, because it wasn't in stock. So i ordered the radiator at german etailer who had it in stock and it was just delivered.
> 
> And i wasn't prepared for what i found inside the radiator. My last wc-build was more then 13 years ago, got everything vom AquaComputer back then. And the first thing you had to do was flush your radiators. Drill-leftovers, oil, colour, cleaning agents, dirt ... the radiators in those days (regardless of manufacturer) had all kinds of ***** in them. So i was more then sceptical when i read that EKWB rads came preflushed and that there was no need to do so ... yeah right....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, right! I boiled up some destilled water, filled the rad to ~3/4, closed the holes and did a mighty 5 minute water cleaning dance. When i finaly opend the holes and poured the water into a bowl, there was ... nothing, literaly nothing inside the water. It was as crystal clear as it came from the distilled bottle. No oilfilm, no floating lint, no colour/tint to the water, no small particles or debris or whatsoever. Just to make sure i repeated the "water dance" once more, with the same result. I don't know if that has become industry standard by now, but i was utterly impressed. Not that i will skip the flush on the 240 i am still awaiting, but having such a result on the first flush realy makes it quick and easy to get it done and not spend1-2 hours with cleaning your rads like 13 years ago.
> 
> Great final inspection and QA on EKWB'S part here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are your experiences? Did i just get lucky, or is this defacto the quality you can expect these days?


I have had the same result with all 3 of my Radiators- 2 580s & a 540. Quality is why I buy EK, so I hope they keep up the premium stuff as they expand into the cheaper entry level products.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mora*
> 
> I have had the same result with all 3 of my Radiators- 2 580s & a 540. Quality is why I buy EK, so I hope they keep up the premium stuff as they expand into the cheaper entry level products.


I don't know how long or how many times I will have to repeat it









We won't stop making our original enthusiast line of products.









And the Fluid Gaming isn't a cheap line of products. It's a line up made for those who venture into the watercooling world and are on a smaller budget. I wouldn't qualify it with the word "cheap".


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I don't know how long or how many times I will have to repeat it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We won't stop making our original enthusiast line of products.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the Fluid Gaming isn't a cheap line of products. It's a line up made for those who venture into the watercooling world and are on a smaller budget. I wouldn't qualify it with the word "cheap".


Hey @Akira749,

if you are with EKWB, maybe you can spread some feedback?

When i ordered all my stuff from your shop the day before yesterday, it said that "estimated shipping date" was june 8th when choosing DPD. At first i was like "Huh? why are they taking so long to pack it all up if i pay with paypal?". Today i realized it meant estimated date of arrival, since my package is already underway. In my understanding, the term "shipping date" means the day when it leaves your warehouse, maybe the text in the shop should say ETA instead?

Nothing extremly important, but it sure can confuse people buying from your shop.

Can't wait to have all that cool hardware in my hands


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I don't know how long or how many times I will have to repeat it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We won't stop making our original enthusiast line of products.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the Fluid Gaming isn't a cheap line of products. It's a line up made for those who venture into the watercooling world and are on a smaller budget. I wouldn't qualify it with the word "cheap".


Haha. Yeah cheap is a bad word. I just noticed with computex coverage that cheap isn't used. It can have a bad connotation. Budget, inexpensive, affordable.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Haha. Yeah cheap is a bad word. I just noticed with computex coverage that cheap isn't used. It can have a bad connotation. Budget, inexpensive, affordable.


In the car business, it's always inexpensive



TCO


----------



## DisposableHero7

Hehe,

yeah in germany we have 2 words for that.

"Billig" equals cheap or maybe tacky and has a bad connotation: Something that doesn't cost much, but also doesn't last long.

"Günstig" equals auspicious or convenient and has a good connotation: Something that doesn't cost much, but does what it should do.

And after reading the test on Guru3D, i believe the aluminium-sets are quite "günstig", but in no way "cheap".


----------



## Crash-Over

But this is only in germany so good example PCGH find that since extremely stupid what the make reviews of English sites as useless say but their tests are then the same I find the full stupid Sorry but but there are the German sow stupid, "" I say it is myself a German "

**** pcgh sorry


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crash-Over*
> 
> But this is only in germany so good example PCGH find that since extremely stupid what the make reviews of English sites as useless say but their tests are then the same I find the full stupid Sorry but but there are the German sow stupid, "" I say it is myself a German "
> 
> **** pcgh sorry


Uhm, what?
I am sorry, but if my life depended on it, i couldn't understand what you where trying to say. Maybe some punctuation would help? I have no clue what you're about, mate.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Uhm, what?
> I am sorry, but if my life depended on it, i couldn't understand what you where trying to say. Maybe some punctuation would help? I have no clue what you're about, mate.


Punctuation isn't gonna help that post.


----------



## iamjanco

As the ami who once rollicked around in Germany said:

Er hat vielleicht ein bißchen zu viel zum trinken gehabt.

(Oder es ist einfach bloß eine schlechte Übersetzung.)


----------



## jleslie246

I see you can buy res pump combos with glass tube res's now. Any cons to using glass? besides breakage.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I see you can buy res pump combos with glass tube res's now. Any cons to using glass? besides breakage.


Hm,
i'd say the possibility to break and weight should be the only two (theoretical) downsides. But if it is tempered or crystal glas, any shock that would break the glass would have done bad, bad things to the case and the rest of your hardware long before that. Temperaturwise no problem.

If anything, a real glas tube should be much better than acrylic: no washingout the softeners, no aging, no clouding over very long times ...

I'd go for real glass had i seen/realized they offer that now ...

*EDIT:*
OH my oh my oh my,
DPD tracking just confirmed my parcel will arrive today, in about 1-2 hours. I wasn't expecting it before mid next week. YES the weekend is gonna be glorious.


----------



## DisposableHero7




----------



## Kimir

Sigh, I missed the opportunity to order while there was the 10% promo code. Oh well, I haven't figured all the pieces I need to order anyway.


----------



## jtd964

Before

After


Cpu: 4790k
Gpus: GTX 1070s seahawks
Ram: 32gb

Case is corsair 760t


----------



## jtd964

A short video


----------



## DisposableHero7

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> the first single part of my new custom loop arrived to day ... the one part i didn't order directly at EKWB, the PE360, because it wasn't in stock. So i ordered the radiator at german etailer who had it in stock and it was just delivered.
> 
> And i wasn't prepared for what i found inside the radiator. My last wc-build was more then 13 years ago, got everything vom AquaComputer back then. And the first thing you had to do was flush your radiators. Drill-leftovers, oil, colour, cleaning agents, dirt ... the radiators in those days (regardless of manufacturer) had all kinds of ***** in them. So i was more then sceptical when i read that EKWB rads came preflushed and that there was no need to do so ... yeah right....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, right! I boiled up some destilled water, filled the rad to ~3/4, closed the holes and did a mighty 5 minute water cleaning dance. When i finaly opend the holes and poured the water into a bowl, there was ... nothing, literaly nothing inside the water. It was as crystal clear as it came from the distilled bottle. No oilfilm, no floating lint, no colour/tint to the water, no small particles or debris or whatsoever. Just to make sure i repeated the "water dance" once more, with the same result. I don't know if that has become industry standard by now, but i was utterly impressed. Not that i will skip the flush on the 240 i am still awaiting, but having such a result on the first flush realy makes it quick and easy to get it done and not spend1-2 hours with cleaning your rads like 13 years ago.
> 
> Great final inspection and QA on EKWB'S part here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are your experiences? Did i just get lucky, or is this defacto the quality you can expect these days?






*Cough*Cough*Cough*

As the picture i posted earlier shows, the rest of my loop arrived today, including my 2nd radiator, the XE 240. And this one gave me all i expected from the first one









Fine brown powder, much like sand, white flakes (probably leftover from a cleaning agent) and small blue and black chips/splinters (probably paint). I had to fill it up twice, shake it thoroughly each time and after that had ~3l of distilled water just run through it until i couldn't see anymore stuff comming out of it. Tomorrow i'll do a dummy-loop with only the rads, the pump and the reservoir just to see if everything is flushed out now. I wouldn't want any of that stuff clogging up my CPU or GPU block.

Don't get this wrong though, i'm not trying to bash EK. The overall quality of everything i got today is very nice, especially the radiators with their mate black (is it anodized?). Just posting this so everyone is reminded that even with quality products, something like this can happen and we as builders are responsible to check our stuff again before we through into a live system. The old wisdom for watercooling stays true in 2017: Allways flush your rads!


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtd964*
> 
> Before
> 
> After
> 
> 
> Cpu: 4790k
> Gpus: GTX 1070s seahawks
> Ram: 32gb
> 
> Case is corsair 760t


Nice rig, even before the changes.









Hm, did i miss anything?

Different lighting (green to blue)
2nd graphics card
New thermometer
New flowmeter
Clear fluid
Diagonal tube replaced by 90° angle
Strange booblehead figur (that evil nazi-thing from Hellboy?)
One thing i especialy like with your SLI cooling is that you abstained from doing that parallel-nonsens between both cards. I see so many SLI water cooling setups where they have BOTH holes open between the two cards (with tubes connecting them of cours). While i can understand the aesthetics behind it, it's not something i would recommend doing. That way, you essentialy put both cards in a parallel configuration, meaning the water splits up and flows through both cards, than reunites at the end. This has 2 downsides:

1:
Splitting up the water stream means that the water will flow through both cards at HALF the flowspeed it passes through everyting else in the loop. It's not a realy big issue, but half the flowspeed means much less turbulences inside the water and a measurable less effective heat-dissipation from the block into the water. It's not much, but the effect is there.

2:
This is error prone! Water, like mostly anything in the world of physics, will always go the way of lesser ressistance. With two identical GPU blocks, that shouldn't be a problem, however if one of the blocks gets partialy obstructed by goop, dirt etc. and its resistance against the flow rises in a meaningfull manner, this will result in the water then going through the other card almost exclusively! The water in the partialy clogged block will come to a halt and heat up VERY fast. In a classic, serial setup the water wouldn't have a chance but squeeze itself through the partialy obstructed card no matter what. Yes that would lead to a less effective cooling of the entire system, but slowly and you would surely notice the reduced cooling efficience of your loop and check. Thats not an urban legend, i have seen it happen to a PC on a LAN-party, whos owner thought it would be a good idea to have a parallel setup. The card with the stalled water heated up and the partialy boiling water in it blew of the tubing from the fittings. Case was sprayed with water on the inside, roughly 1,500 € worth of hardware fried.

It's a small chance, but you don't want that to happen to you.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> 
> (is it anodized?)


Don't think so. Scratches easily and my guess is that it is water base paint.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Don't think so. Scratches easily and my guess is that it is water base paint.


Funny ....


----------



## brenopapito

Hi guys, I need some help here.

Is it possible to buy these screw nuts separately?


I don't know how, but I broke two of them.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brenopapito*
> 
> Hi guys, I need some help here.
> 
> Is it possible to buy these screw nuts separately?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how, but I broke two of them.


could find only the 2.5mm on EK's site:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-standoffs-2-5 nevermind

frozen CPU has a buttload (items 8 - 13)

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c585/s1883/list/p1/b133/EK_Water_Blocks-EK_Replacement_Parts-EK_Replacement_Standoffs-Page1.html


----------



## ForNever

Unfortunately those are threaded standoffs, spacers aren't going to do you any good here. If they've become stripped there isn't much to be done, aside from drilling/tapping slightly larger threads. I have had some (limited) success before using JB Weld as a filler, curing it, then redrilling/tapping.

Your other option is to cut the head off a longer screw of the same thread, drill out the hole, and JB Weld the screw into the standoff. Then you can use a washer/nut on the ones that have been stripped out. Be careful here to ensure the screw being epoxied into the stripped hole is as straight as you can get it. It might be a good idea to position the card over it once the epoxy/screw is set (before it cures) to ensure it's straight enough.

Sorry to hear, but all is not lost if you're willing to so some minor machine work.

EDIT: If you scroll down on that frozencpu page there are some threaded options available! Good find Looniam. Looking at a 980 EK block I have lying around, it appears they are threaded in as well, so easily replaced providing you know the threading of the ones on your block.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> Unfortunately those are threaded standoffs, spacers aren't going to do you any good here
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> . If they've become stripped there isn't much to be done, aside from drilling/tapping slightly larger threads. I have had some (limited) success before using JB Weld as a filler, curing it, then redrilling/tapping.
> 
> Your other option is to cut the head off a longer screw of the same thread, drill out the hole, and JB Weld the screw into the standoff. Then you can use a washer/nut on the ones that have been stripped out. Be careful here to ensure the screw being epoxied into the stripped hole is as straight as you can get it. It might be a good idea to position the card over it once the epoxy/screw is set (before it cures) to ensure it's straight enough.
> 
> Sorry to hear, but all is not lost if you're willing to so some minor machine work
> 
> 
> .


i edited my post because yes the EK is just spacers. (ought to have paid better attention.

however the list on frozen cpu includes standoffs:


----------



## brenopapito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> could find only the 2.5mm on EK's site:
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-standoffs-2-5 nevermind
> 
> frozen CPU has a buttload (items 8 - 13)
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c585/s1883/list/p1/b133/EK_Water_Blocks-EK_Replacement_Parts-EK_Replacement_Standoffs-Page1.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> Unfortunately those are threaded standoffs, spacers aren't going to do you any good here. If they've become stripped there isn't much to be done, aside from drilling/tapping slightly larger threads. I have had some (limited) success before using JB Weld as a filler, curing it, then redrilling/tapping.
> 
> Your other option is to cut the head off a longer screw of the same thread, drill out the hole, and JB Weld the screw into the standoff. Then you can use a washer/nut on the ones that have been stripped out. Be careful here to ensure the screw being epoxied into the stripped hole is as straight as you can get it. It might be a good idea to position the card over it once the epoxy/screw is set (before it cures) to ensure it's straight enough.
> 
> Sorry to hear, but all is not lost if you're willing to so some minor machine work.
> 
> EDIT: If you scroll down on that frozencpu page there are some threaded options available! Good find Looniam. Looking at a 980 EK block I have lying around, it appears they are threaded in as well, so easily replaced providing you know the threading of the ones on your block.


Awesome! This is exactly what I need, thanks.


----------



## looniam

whoa! ninja editing . .


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Hey @Akira749,
> 
> if you are with EKWB, maybe you can spread some feedback?
> 
> When i ordered all my stuff from your shop the day before yesterday, it said that "estimated shipping date" was june 8th when choosing DPD. At first i was like "Huh? why are they taking so long to pack it all up if i pay with paypal?". Today i realized it meant estimated date of arrival, since my package is already underway. In my understanding, the term "shipping date" means the day when it leaves your warehouse, maybe the text in the shop should say ETA instead?
> 
> Nothing extremly important, but it sure can confuse people buying from your shop.
> 
> Can't wait to have all that cool hardware in my hands


"estimated shipping date" is usually the estimated shipping date. It might simply have been a small issue with the DPD estimation.

In your favor









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> The overall quality of everything i got today is very nice, especially the radiators with their mate black (is it anodized?).


No they are painted.


----------



## DigitrevX

Finished a new build.
Supremacy evo nickle plated cpu block, 360 SE rad, 240 PE rad, Xres 140 D5 pump combo
Fittings are all bits power Hardline compression black chrome, tube is 16mm 1/2id 3/4od.
Fluid is Primochill's uv electric blue additive (Turns out kinda pale)
Fans are all Corsair ML pro's.

Your probably wondering, why didn't he include the video card in the loop. The answer is I VJ on my free time for edm events. I intend to steel it out of my build when I gota do a show. The cooler on the FTW3 incredible in terms of temps and matches the builds theme. Till I put another stronger card in the VJ build I'm going to wait on watercooling it. I planned the FWT3 doing things like flipping the EK pump bracket inwards to shave millimeters of space for the card. With all this effort the pump and card shroud do touch but only barely.


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing a new AM4 monoblock for MSI® X370 XPOWER Gaming Titanium!


----------



## Leudast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> Finished a new build.
> Supremacy evo nickle plated cpu block, 360 SE rad, 240 PE rad, Xres 140 D5 pump combo
> Fittings are all bits power Hardline compression black chrome, tube is 16mm 1/2id 3/4od.
> Fluid is Primochill's uv electric blue additive (Turns out kinda pale)
> Fans are all Corsair ML pro's.
> 
> Your probably wondering, why didn't he include the video card in the loop. The answer is I VJ on my free time for edm events. I intend to steel it out of my build when I gota do a show. The cooler on the FTW3 incredible in terms of temps and matches the builds theme. Till I put another stronger card in the VJ build I'm going to wait on watercooling it. I planned the FWT3 doing things like flipping the EK pump bracket inwards to shave millimeters of space for the card. With all this effort the pump and card shroud do touch but only barely.


Looks clean as hell. I'm glad to see that your FTW3 is still on air and doing just fine because that is what I think I'll do for mine. Planning on getting the new i7-7820x and throwing that on a custom loop in a Corsair AIR 540, with the FTW3 running on air. I'm just waiting to see the motherboards to know if a top mounted rad will clear all the new bells & whistles that they're adding.


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leudast*
> 
> Looks clean as hell. I'm glad to see that your FTW3 is still on air and doing just fine because that is what I think I'll do for mine. Planning on getting the new i7-7820x and throwing that on a custom loop in a Corsair AIR 540, with the FTW3 running on air. I'm just waiting to see the motherboards to know if a top mounted rad will clear all the new bells & whistles that they're adding.


Yeah tho I'd be more concerned with the fact new boards are e-atx. The evolv is only recommended for 265mm. Many asus e-atx boards are 275mm for example. That's why I'm a little annoyed 10mm wouldn't have effected the marketing of the case in any negative way had they made it slightly larger.


----------



## Leudast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> Yeah tho I'd be more concerned with the fact new boards are e-atx. The evolv is only recommended for 265mm. Many asus e-atx boards are 275mm for example. That's why I'm a little annoyed 10mm wouldn't have effected the marketing of the case in any negative way had they made it slightly larger.
> If you want to play it safe some are coming out that still fit or you can try your luck at a full sized board. ><


I do believe that most manufacturers are coming out with standard ATX form factors for the x299 chipset.:http://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/Intel-X299


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leudast*
> 
> I do believe that most manufacturers are coming out with standard ATX form factors for the x299 chipset.:http://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/Intel-X299


Yeah some are, but some aren't and some have mixed sizes based on model.
Just saying the case could have supported them all since e-atx isn't anything new.


----------



## Leudast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> Yeah some are, but some aren't and some have mixed sizes based on model.
> Just saying the case could have supported them all since e-atx isn't anything new.


Gotcha, I misunderstood


----------



## AllGamer

*Help!*

so I was installing an EK water block and Backplate for my GTX 1080 (Founders Edition) and I accidentally shattered this ceramic resistor or whatever it was supposed to be, and that is the problem.

I don't know what was that little piece.

Does anyone have a GTX 1080 (Founders Edition) and let me know which part is broken, and hopefully find a spare piece for sale somewhere.

circled in red

  

 



I believe it's part C503 ?

Anyone know where I can order one?

The card will not work with that cracked, I tried to power it up already and nothing.

.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing a new AM4 monoblock for MSI® X370 XPOWER Gaming Titanium!


----------



## garyd9

Just a quick followup to my earlier posts concerning plastic plugs with an EK reservoir: After contacting EK, they asked to see a copy of my invoice and promised to make things right with me. Today, I got an international shipment from Slovenia, which I'm told contains replacement plugs. (I don't know for sure, as I wasn't home and it's signature required.)

Sadly, the product page on ekwb.com/shop STILL shows that the res comes with metal plugs: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-150 (the product page also claims that the res comes with "1 × 6mm Allen key for plugs")

Unfortunately, performance-pcs.com _STILL_ hasn't responded to my inquiry I made with them on the same issue over a week ago. Attempts to call them have gone to voice mail. (To the person who suggested I contact performance-pcs and that they have great CS: so far I'm not seeing that at all.)

So, overall a mixed bag, but least EK responded to me and appears to have taken steps to make things right.

Very much related, I forwarded to my wife a "suggestion" that a EK graphics card block would be a nice "father's day" gift from our kids. Being that she made me stare at the screen when she ordered it to "make sure she was getting the right thing", I think EK can rest assured that good customer service translated directly into another sale.

Take care
Gary


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*


Just in time for Mega to have to switch to X399 and ThreadRipper lol


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Just a quick followup to my earlier posts concerning plastic plugs with an EK reservoir: After contacting EK, they asked to see a copy of my invoice and promised to make things right with me. Today, I got an international shipment from Slovenia, which I'm told contains replacement plugs. (I don't know for sure, as I wasn't home and it's signature required.)
> 
> Sadly, the product page on ekwb.com/shop STILL shows that the res comes with metal plugs: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-150 (the product page also claims that the res comes with "1 × 6mm Allen key for plugs")
> 
> Unfortunately, performance-pcs.com _STILL_ hasn't responded to my inquiry I made with them on the same issue over a week ago. Attempts to call them have gone to voice mail. (To the person who suggested I contact performance-pcs and that they have great CS: so far I'm not seeing that at all.)
> 
> So, overall a mixed bag, but least EK responded to me and appears to have taken steps to make things right.
> 
> Very much related, I forwarded to my wife a "suggestion" that a EK graphics card block would be a nice "father's day" gift from our kids. Being that she made me stare at the screen when she ordered it to "make sure she was getting the right thing", I think EK can rest assured that good customer service translated directly into another sale.
> 
> Take care
> Gary


I looked back a few pages but didnt see your OP. Whats up with the metal plugs? Im curious because my pump has one in it. Do i need to change it?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Just a quick followup to my earlier posts concerning plastic plugs with an EK reservoir: After contacting EK, they asked to see a copy of my invoice and promised to make things right with me. Today, I got an international shipment from Slovenia, which I'm told contains replacement plugs. (I don't know for sure, as I wasn't home and it's signature required.)
> 
> Sadly, the product page on ekwb.com/shop STILL shows that the res comes with metal plugs: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-150 (the product page also claims that the res comes with "1 × 6mm Allen key for plugs")
> 
> Unfortunately, performance-pcs.com _STILL_ hasn't responded to my inquiry I made with them on the same issue over a week ago. Attempts to call them have gone to voice mail. (To the person who suggested I contact performance-pcs and that they have great CS: so far I'm not seeing that at all.)
> 
> So, overall a mixed bag, but least EK responded to me and appears to have taken steps to make things right.
> 
> Very much related, I forwarded to my wife a "suggestion" that a EK graphics card block would be a nice "father's day" gift from our kids. Being that she made me stare at the screen when she ordered it to "make sure she was getting the right thing", I think EK can rest assured that good customer service translated directly into another sale.
> 
> Take care
> Gary


seriously, please stop whining, they changed from metal to plastic plugs, i never used the ones they gave me anyway. it affects maybe a small portion of people

in short most dont care.

PPCs has some amazing CS EK does too. but you just seem to wanna make an internet troll of things.... pretty sad really
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
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> 
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> Just in time for Mega to have to switch to X399 and ThreadRipper lol
Click to expand...

Ha Ha Ha

kinda it makes it easy for me. i hate my ( and have since i built it. ) 3930k, i just dont see the amazing of intel. my fx handeled everything in windows better. but it has a few uses. currently i use it for plex and emby. my titanium will probably be swapped to that, TR for my encoding. and i wann abuild one for my wife ( a 8 core, maybe a 6 core ) with my tomahawk .... either way plenty of uses left

am i the only one waiting for the amd server stuff from super micro for this ? i want to see freenas and ryzen !!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Just a quick followup to my earlier posts concerning plastic plugs with an EK reservoir: After contacting EK, they asked to see a copy of my invoice and promised to make things right with me. Today, I got an international shipment from Slovenia, which I'm told contains replacement plugs. (I don't know for sure, as I wasn't home and it's signature required.)
> 
> Sadly, the product page on ekwb.com/shop STILL shows that the res comes with metal plugs: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-150 (the product page also claims that the res comes with "1 × 6mm Allen key for plugs")
> 
> Unfortunately, performance-pcs.com _STILL_ hasn't responded to my inquiry I made with them on the same issue over a week ago. Attempts to call them have gone to voice mail. (To the person who suggested I contact performance-pcs and that they have great CS: so far I'm not seeing that at all.)
> 
> So, overall a mixed bag, but least EK responded to me and appears to have taken steps to make things right.
> 
> Very much related, I forwarded to my wife a "suggestion" that a EK graphics card block would be a nice "father's day" gift from our kids. Being that she made me stare at the screen when she ordered it to "make sure she was getting the right thing", I think EK can rest assured that good customer service translated directly into another sale.
> 
> Take care
> Gary
> 
> 
> 
> I looked back a few pages but didnt see your OP. Whats up with the metal plugs? Im curious because my pump has one in it. Do i need to change it?
Click to expand...

no, he just wanted to troll on the webs that he got the new rev, with plastic plugs and didnt want to buy the metal ones, because you know, he is entitled to metal plugs.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I looked back a few pages but didnt see your OP. Whats up with the metal plugs? Im curious because my pump has one in it. Do i need to change it?


No, it was just that a reservoir was advertised as coming with metal plugs, but actually shipped with plastic ones.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> seriously, please stop whining, they changed from metal to plastic plugs, i never used the ones they gave me anyway. it affects maybe a small portion of people


Huh? I was complimenting EK for handling the issue, reminding them that the product page still needs to be updated, and telling them that I appreciate their CS enough to continue purchasing from them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> in short most dont care.


Several did care, and I'm sure they will find it reassuring that EK is trying to resolve the issue. As for you... I don't care that YOU don't care.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> PPCs has some amazing CS EK does too. but you just seem to wanna make an internet troll of things.... pretty sad really
> Ha Ha Ha


I'm glad you think PPCs has amazing CS. So far, my impression is that they don't answer web messages and don't return phone calls. Are you suggesting that ONLY your experience matters and no one else's does? As for what is "sad"... I'm sure EK would find it "sad" if I left my earlier complaints in this thread intact without a follow up letting readers know the issue with them was resolved.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no, he just wanted to troll on the webs that he got the new rev, with plastic plugs and didnt want to buy the metal ones, because you know, he is entitled to metal plugs.


I believe he is entitled to the metal plugs. The manufacturer advertises the product as such and thus the client expects to get exactly that. If it were the other way around (advertised with plastic instead of metal and shipped metal) then anyone can claim they wanted the plastic plugs.

Also seems that EK feels the same way otherwise they wouldn't have sent him replacement metal plugs.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Just a quick followup to my earlier posts concerning plastic plugs with an EK reservoir: After contacting EK, they asked to see a copy of my invoice and promised to make things right with me. Today, I got an international shipment from Slovenia, which I'm told contains replacement plugs. (I don't know for sure, as I wasn't home and it's signature required.)
> 
> Sadly, the product page on ekwb.com/shop STILL shows that the res comes with metal plugs: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-150 (the product page also claims that the res comes with "1 × 6mm Allen key for plugs")
> 
> Unfortunately, performance-pcs.com _STILL_ hasn't responded to my inquiry I made with them on the same issue over a week ago. Attempts to call them have gone to voice mail. (To the person who suggested I contact performance-pcs and that they have great CS: so far I'm not seeing that at all.)
> 
> So, overall a mixed bag, but least EK responded to me and appears to have taken steps to make things right.
> 
> Very much related, I forwarded to my wife a "suggestion" that a EK graphics card block would be a nice "father's day" gift from our kids. Being that she made me stare at the screen when she ordered it to "make sure she was getting the right thing", I think EK can rest assured that good customer service translated directly into another sale.
> 
> Take care
> Gary


Oh, that is interesting.

I just finished my custom loop 2 days ago (link is in my sig) and i actualy had a problem with one of the plastic plugs in my RES-X3-150. While test-running my loop the reservoir leaked from on of the ports that i closed with a plug. On examination, i found a failure in the plugs thread, it wasn't cut correctly: Half way, a small "blob" of plastic that wasn't cut away blocked the thread, so when screwing it in, it would get difficult to turn it and felt like you where done, but it wasn't closed. After cutting free the thread, the plug now went in MUCH easier and about 2 turns further. It didn't leak anymore after that.

If i hadn't read your post, i probably wouldn't have known the res was supposed to come with metal plugs. Hm ... i can understand working economicaly and trying to cut costs, but i wonder if it is a smart move to do it on such a small, yet kinda critical component - the plug is supposed to seal of an opening in the loop that can leak water into your case and onto your hardware. Saving a few cents there is a questionable move


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Oh, that is interesting.
> 
> I just finished my custom loop 2 days ago (link is in my sig) and i actualy had a problem with one of the plastic plugs in my RES-X3-150. While test-running my loop the reservoir leaked from on of the ports that i closed with a plug. On examination, i found a failure in the plugs thread, it wasn't cut correctly: Half way, a small "blob" of plastic that wasn't cut away blocked the thread, so when screwing it in, it would get difficult to turn it and felt like you where done, but it wasn't closed. After cutting free the thread, the plug now went in MUCH easier and about 2 turns further. It didn't leak anymore after that.
> 
> If i hadn't read your post, i probably wouldn't have known the res was supposed to come with metal plugs. Hm ... i can understand working economicaly and trying to cut costs, but i wonder if it is a smart move to do it on such a small, yet kinda critical component - the plug is supposed to seal of an opening in the loop that can leak water into your case and onto your hardware. Saving a few cents there is a questionable move


Wait a minute, I got a plastic plug too, teflon tape and muscle power fixed mine, should I be mad?


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Wait a minute, I got a plastic plug too, teflon tape and muscle power fixed mine, should I be mad?


Probably not mad, that doesn't help anyone. Maybe vigilant that cheaper plastic plugs can have disadvantages over metal ones?
I mean, it's not like it is the end of the world ... unless a plastic plug fails, fluid runs into your PC and fries your hardware, that'd be sort of like the end of the world?


----------



## Ceadderman

I gotta say that if they are the same plugs that are in my 360SE, then those plugs aren't meant for use in a loop. They are there strictly for dust control to keep dust out of EK components. I commend.anyone that actually got them to work but they should be replaced before filling the loop.









I can doublecheck in my X3 Res but that's what I believe atm.









~Ceadder


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I gotta say that if they are the same plugs that are in my 360SE, then those plugs aren't meant for use in a loop. They are there strictly for dust control to keep dust out of EK components. I commend.anyone that actually got them to work but they should be replaced before filling the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can doublecheck in my X3 Res but that's what I believe atm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The "dust" plugs from my SE360 radiator are different.. the black plastic ones that come with the reservoirs now are a harder and "cleaner" plastic and have an o-ring. I did get the 4 replacement metal plugs from EK, though I need to search for an allen key to fit now.









I also FINALLY got in contact with someone at PPC and they seemed responsive to my concerns.

Take care
Gary


----------



## whitrzac

It's nice to hear that they sent you the proper plugs that were advertised as being included.

They told me that " forwarded the info to our guys in charge of web shop descriptions and they will change them"

They refuse to send the metal plugs that were advertised.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I looked back a few pages but didnt see your OP. Whats up with the metal plugs? Im curious because my pump has one in it. Do i need to change it?
> 
> 
> 
> No, it was just that a reservoir was advertised as coming with metal plugs, but actually shipped with plastic ones.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> seriously, please stop whining, they changed from metal to plastic plugs, i never used the ones they gave me anyway. it affects maybe a small portion of people
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Huh? I was complimenting EK for handling the issue, reminding them that the product page still needs to be updated, and telling them that I appreciate their CS enough to continue purchasing from them.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> in short most dont care.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Several did care, and I'm sure they will find it reassuring that EK is trying to resolve the issue. As for you... I don't care that YOU don't care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> PPCs has some amazing CS EK does too. but you just seem to wanna make an internet troll of things.... pretty sad really
> Ha Ha Ha
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm glad you think PPCs has amazing CS. So far, my impression is that they don't answer web messages and don't return phone calls. Are you suggesting that ONLY your experience matters and no one else's does? As for what is "sad"... I'm sure EK would find it "sad" if I left my earlier complaints in this thread intact without a follow up letting readers know the issue with them was resolved.
Click to expand...

Wow.

I certainly didn't see any trolling here at all.
Imo garyd9 did however, make a very worthwhile post which deserves a Rep+


----------



## DigitrevX

My 2 cents on performance pcs is they are pretty good for the volume they handle. I've done business with them long before frozen cpu exploded.

On one of my last orders I made a mistake and added a item to my cart that was rated for UK wall outlets and they actually took note of my shipping address and reached out to me to ask if I wanted to US version. That's pretty remarkable these days.

Another time I ordered paid extra for weekend shipping and they realized it wouldn't make it in time anyways so they actively refunded me the extra charge without me asking. Again it's rare to find that kind of pro active customer service.

Now before I sound like a fan boy or whatever. It would be nice if they picked up the phone, and one time I did inquire a question about a hard tubing batch never heard back from them. But for the most part pretty happy.

Their site needs some work.. I understand it's a inventory nightmare but it's flaky.

Reguards to the EK plastic rad plugs, who really cares. They are there to be thrown away. Who has the expectation that your gona get free metal plugs every rad you buy, and do you really have a use for 2-4-8 spare plugs? Seems like waste of packaging costs.


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> It's nice to hear that they sent you the proper plugs that were advertised as being included.
> 
> They told me that " forwarded the info to our guys in charge of web shop descriptions and they will change them"
> 
> They refuse to send the metal plugs that were advertised.


PM me and I'll send you some metal plugs if you want some. I have extras I'll never use.


----------



## b0oMeR

Hey everyone I need some advice on my first loop , I am confused about fittings and tube sizes. I would like to use (12/16mm) / (7/16" - 5/8") tubing.

How many would I need per component? I have a cpu block with the ek140 res + the ek res x3 bottom and an EK XE 360. I am using the EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM pump.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0oMeR*
> 
> Hey everyone I need some advice on my first loop , I am confused about fittings and tube sizes. I would like to use (12/16mm) / (7/16" - 5/8") tubing.
> 
> How many would I need per component? I have a cpu block with the ek140 res + the ek res x3 bottom and an EK XE 360. I am using the EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM pump.


Assuming straight routing, you need 2 fittings per component. If you are using soft tubing, make sure your fitting is slighly bigger than the ID pf the tubing.

Like the EK EPDM tubing (by far the nicest tubes ive seen compared to clear), is 11.2mm ID and because rubber is flexible i got it to fit over 12mm ID support fittings. It was a supet snug super tight fit.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0oMeR*
> 
> Hey everyone I need some advice on my first loop , I am confused about fittings and tube sizes. I would like to use (12/16mm) / (7/16" - 5/8") tubing.
> 
> How many would I need per component? I have a cpu block with the ek140 res + the ek res x3 bottom and an EK XE 360. I am using the EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM pump.


A rule of thumb for starters is that you need 2 fittings per component (inlet/outlet). This is true when you connect each component with tubing. But, for example, you can mount the res directly on the pump using a male-male fitting between them and not use tubing.

LE: sorry Dasboogieman, didn't see your post.


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0oMeR*
> 
> Hey everyone I need some advice on my first loop , I am confused about fittings and tube sizes. I would like to use (12/16mm) / (7/16" - 5/8") tubing.
> 
> How many would I need per component? I have a cpu block with the ek140 res + the ek res x3 bottom and an EK XE 360. I am using the EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM pump.


Not sure if you are going hard line or soft since usually hardline goes by metric and soft goes by standard units.
Like these guys said 2 fittings per component. A in and a out. If you want a fill port / tube and drain those will be extra.
But if I'm reading this right you got 1 360 rad, and 2 reservoirs and 2 d5's but one water block?


----------



## b0oMeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> Not sure if you are going hard line or soft since usually hardline goes by metric and soft goes by standard units.
> Like these guys said 2 fittings per component. A in and a out. If you want a fill port / tube and drain those will be extra.
> But if I'm reading this right you got 1 360 rad, and 2 reservoirs and 2 d5's but one water block?


Haha noo just one radiator. The other piece is this https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-bottom-white
5 port bottom with no pump.

Got a separate pump with the plexi spinning thing.


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0oMeR*
> 
> Haha noo just one radiator. The other piece is this https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-bottom-white
> 5 port bottom with no pump.
> 
> Got a separate pump with the plexi spinning thing.


Oh sorry that was my fault. I have no idea why I read it like that. It makes more sense now. (It's late here) I thought for some reason you have a res pump combo unit and separate res and pump.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> My 2 cents on performance pcs is they are pretty good for the volume they handle. I've done business with them long before frozen cpu exploded.
> 
> On one of my last orders I made a mistake and added a item to my cart that was rated for UK wall outlets and they actually took note of my shipping address and reached out to me to ask if I wanted to US version. That's pretty remarkable these days.
> 
> Another time I ordered paid extra for weekend shipping and they realized it wouldn't make it in time anyways so they actively refunded me the extra charge without me asking. Again it's rare to find that kind of pro active customer service.
> 
> Now before I sound like a fan boy or whatever. It would be nice if they picked up the phone, and one time I did inquire a question about a hard tubing batch never heard back from them. But for the most part pretty happy.
> 
> Their site needs some work.. I understand it's a inventory nightmare but it's flaky.
> 
> Reguards to the EK plastic rad plugs, who really cares. They are there to be thrown away. Who has the expectation that your gona get free metal plugs every rad you buy, and do you really have a use for 2-4-8 spare plugs? Seems like waste of packaging costs.


he was fine with his first post. it became trolling when he insinuated " ( paraphrase) ek started substituting plastic plugs, now they are making ( and they are not, a new company is ) AL parts, are they gonna start ' substituting ' AL now too ? "

that is trolling, then having an expectation of instant responses from in this case PPCs , but frankly anyone ....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

What I am gathering is that EK use to sell the Res with Metal plugs. There was a revision of the res and the plugs are now Plastic with a Gasket?

Interesting.









TCO


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What I am gathering is that EK use to sell the Res with Metal plugs. There was a revision of the res and the plugs are now Plastic with a Gasket?


Yes, and I don't think anyone would have an issue with that by itself if EK didn't continue to advertise the reservoir as coming with metal plugs.

As well, some of us only use two of the six ports on the reservoir, don't have drawers full of spare plugs, and need something to plug in the other 4 holes.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Yes, and I don't think anyone would have an issue with that by itself if EK didn't continue to advertise the reservoir as coming with metal plugs.
> 
> As well, some of us only use two of the six ports on the reservoir, don't have drawers full of spare plugs, and need something to plug in the other 4 holes.


Exactly.

I ordered an ek res lite 150 just for the stupid fitting that comes only with the res that gives you the possibility of mounting it directly on the dual Revo d5 setup (can't by it separately although it is a custom loop designed to be extended and upgraded). Basically money out the door for one extension. If it also comes with plastic plugs ... Not gonna continue my thoughts.


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What I am gathering is that EK use to sell the Res with Metal plugs. There was a revision of the res and the plugs are now Plastic with a Gasket?
> 
> Interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


ALL ek products that are advertised as having metal plugs are coming with ghetto plastic plugs now.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Exactly.
> 
> I ordered an ek res lite 150 just for the stupid fitting that comes only with the res that gives you the possibility of mounting it directly on the dual Revo d5 setup (can't by it separately although it is a custom loop designed to be extended and upgraded). Basically money out the door for one extension. If it also comes with plastic plugs ... Not gonna continue my thoughts.


I had a similar, mildly dissapointing experience yesterday with EK...

When ordering my custom loop stuff, i decided to get a separate pump (EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi sleeved) and a reservoir (EK-RES X3 150), which both in total cost me 165€. After having build my system now, i was pondering that maybe getting a combo D5 with a reservoir attached might have been smarter. Something like the EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM would have been much easier to install and needs 1 tube less = much cleaner case interior. Also, that combo only costs 135€ (ok, it is 1cm shorter).

But hey, the only thing i'd need to get would be that black pumptop, so i can screw my acrylic tube directly onto the pump. Unfortunatly i was not able to find it anywhere in the shop, not under "accessories", "pumps: D5 upgrades", "pumps: accessories & spareparts" nor under "reservoirs: spareparts & upgrades".

So i wrote an e-mail to the EK support how i could acquire that pumptop. This was the answer they gave me:
Quote:


> EKWB Support (XXXXXXXXX) (EKWB Support)
> Jun 6, 16:29 CEST
> Hello YYYYYYYYYY,
> 
> Thank you for reaching out to us.
> Sadly, we do not have the combo unit pump tops available for individual sale without the reservior tube. If you wish to turn your D5 pump into a combo unit, you will need to purchase this combo unit without the pump - https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-revo-d5-acetal
> You can then take the tube from your XRES X3 150 and use it on this unit if you wish to make the combo a little taller.
> 
> Best regards, XXXXXXXXXXX


So while i have already payed them more than i needed to (had i planned my loop more carefully in advance, thats on me), and while i am now willing to give them reasonably(!) more money for something that should be available as a spare part, just get this complete other product for 64€!". That is the kind of arrogance that drives people to the competion that takes customer loyalty seriously! If anyone from EK reads this here, please consider changing that attitude - things like that ARE harming your companies reputation!

What i take for myself from this is that you need to be very considerate before doing business with EK, because if something isn't working out 100% for you, they will not make any advances towards you, and i'll probably be looking for future upgrades for my loop elsewhere.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> I had a similar, mildly dissapointing experience yesterday with EK...
> 
> When ordering my custom loop stuff, i decided to get a separate pump (EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi sleeved) and a reservoir (EK-RES X3 150), which both in total cost me 165€. After having build my system now, i was pondering that maybe getting a combo D5 with a reservoir attached might have been smarter. Something like the EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM would have been much easier to install and needs 1 tube less = much cleaner case interior. Also, that combo only costs 135€ (ok, it is 1cm shorter).
> 
> But hey, the only thing i'd need to get would be that black pumptop, so i can screw my acrylic tube directly onto the pump. Unfortunatly i was not able to find it anywhere in the shop, not under "accessories", "pumps: D5 upgrades", "pumps: accessories & spareparts" nor under "reservoirs: spareparts & upgrades".
> 
> So i wrote an e-mail to the EK support how i could acquire that pumptop. This was the answer they gave me:
> So while i have already payed them more than i needed to (had i planned my loop more carefully in advance, thats on me), and while i am now willing to give them reasonably(!) more money for something that should be available as a spare part, just get this complete other product for 64€!". That is the kind of arrogance that drives people to the competion that takes customer loyalty seriously! If anyone from EK reads this here, please consider changing that attitude - things like that ARE harming your companies reputation!
> 
> What i take for myself from this is that you need to be very considerate before doing business with EK, because if something isn't working out 100% for you, they will not make any advances towards you, and i'll probably be looking for future upgrades for my loop elsewhere.


While I do sympathize with your situation it's not entirely Ek's fault here. You ordered a product, determined that a different way would be better and now are upset that they don't carry what you need to carry it out.

Reason I do sympathize is, I purchased the xres 100 res only for my predator system. When it came time to go full custom loop I looked for exactly what you want and found they didn't carry it.

It sucks, I get it. This however is not ek's fault.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> While I do sympathize with your situation it's not entirely Ek's fault here. You ordered a product, determined that a different way would be better and now are upset that they don't carry what you need to carry it out.
> 
> Reason I do sympathize is, I purchased the xres 100 res only for my predator system. When it came time to go full custom loop I looked for exactly what you want and found they didn't carry it.
> 
> It sucks, I get it. This however is not ek's fault.


Getting the wrong stuff in the first place was my fault, i stated that in my post.

Not offering spareparts off their main productlines is a business-decission by and as such a failure of EKWB. They decided to NOT sell spareparts (as other companies do) to squeeze more money out of their customers. It's the mindset behind that i loathe and that makes the company dislikable. Obviously EK are confident they can go along with that, as enough people don't seem to care. I do, and know where i am not going to buy my next stuff ...


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Getting the wrong stuff in the first place was my fault, i stated that in my post.
> 
> Not offering spareparts off their main productlines is a business-decission by and as such a failure of EKWB. They decided to NOT sell spareparts (as other companies do) to squeeze more money out of their customers. It's the mindset behind that i loathe and that makes the company dislikable. Obviously EK are confident they can go along with that, as enough people don't seem to care. I do, and know where i am not going to buy my next stuff ...


Which is absolutely your right to do so. If more people did that then maybe things could change. The plastic plugs, questionable CS as of late, etc doesn't bode well for the future, for sure.

Unfortunately I don't see much changing as it's hard to argue that, overall, they have some of the best water cooling gear around at reasonable prices.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> I had a similar, mildly dissapointing experience yesterday with EK...
> 
> When ordering my custom loop stuff, i decided to get a separate pump (EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi sleeved) and a reservoir (EK-RES X3 150), which both in total cost me 165€. After having build my system now, i was pondering that maybe getting a combo D5 with a reservoir attached might have been smarter. Something like the EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM would have been much easier to install and needs 1 tube less = much cleaner case interior. Also, that combo only costs 135€ (ok, it is 1cm shorter).
> 
> But hey, the only thing i'd need to get would be that black pumptop, so i can screw my acrylic tube directly onto the pump. Unfortunatly i was not able to find it anywhere in the shop, not under "accessories", "pumps: D5 upgrades", "pumps: accessories & spareparts" nor under "reservoirs: spareparts & upgrades".
> 
> So i wrote an e-mail to the EK support how i could acquire that pumptop. This was the answer they gave me:
> So while i have already payed them more than i needed to (had i planned my loop more carefully in advance, thats on me), and while i am now willing to give them reasonably(!) more money for something that should be available as a spare part, just get this complete other product for 64€!". That is the kind of arrogance that drives people to the competion that takes customer loyalty seriously! If anyone from EK reads this here, please consider changing that attitude - things like that ARE harming your companies reputation!
> 
> What i take for myself from this is that you need to be very considerate before doing business with EK, because if something isn't working out 100% for you, they will not make any advances towards you, and i'll probably be looking for future upgrades for my loop elsewhere.


I'm sorry but this is on you. You got something that you ended up wanting to change out for something different. (Which happens to everyone at one point). Maybe they should carry that spare part but they don't. If my company carried every spare part for everything we sell we would be broke and have a crap ton of extra parts that probably never sell. Ek told you the only way it could be done. It sucks but wouldn't say watch doing business with them over that. Taking this ek bashing a little too far imo


----------



## ForNever

Well, on a positive note, I was pleasantly surprised to disassemble my 2.5 yr old EK 980 WFC waterblock to find the condition of the block plating in near perfect condition. I just ran Koolance premix, changed out one time.


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> So i wrote an e-mail to the EK support how i could acquire that pumptop. This was the answer they gave me:
> So while i have already payed them more than i needed to (had i planned my loop more carefully in advance, thats on me), and while i am now willing to give them reasonably(!) more money for something that should be available as a spare part, just get this complete other product for 64€!". That is the kind of arrogance that drives people to the competion that takes customer loyalty seriously! If anyone from EK reads this here, please consider changing that attitude - things like that ARE harming your companies reputation!
> 
> What i take for myself from this is that you need to be very considerate before doing business with EK, because if something isn't working out 100% for you, they will not make any advances towards you, and i'll probably be looking for future upgrades for my loop elsewhere.


Lets be fair, not everything is sold parted out. Even people selling second hand items often don't want to part out. Like sell you a gpu without the cooler attached and then later never sell the cooler.
What you consider a spare part isn't what they do. They also make more money off selling entire components while taking less of risk trying to selling a huge run of spare parts. This isn't like revolutionary new business. This is pretty much a normality with any product.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> I didn't quote anyone when I posted did I. I was responding to a general topic which mega man is talking about. Do you read what you are responding to?
> Their res's ship with acetal plugs these days. 5 years ago they offered alen metal plugs but who actually cares. The acetals work fine.
> Don't act like a dick please.


Do you really think ANYONE believes that? LOL. Mega man wasn't talking about rad plugs. The only person who brought up rad plugs was Ceadderman to whom I replied.


----------



## iamjanco

Couldn't resist.


----------



## Chaoz

My new build. Mostly EKWB parts, except for fittings and monoblock (EKWB didn't make a monoblock for my board).

My EK parts are:
EKWB EK-RES X4 250 reservoir
EKWB EK-XTOP REVO Dual D5 PWM Pump
EKWB EK-CoolStream PE 480 radiator
EKWB EK-CoolStream SE 360 radiator
EK-FC1070 GTX - Acetal+Nickel
EKWB EK-HD tubing

The rest are:
Bitspower Thor AIX99 Monoblock
Bitspower 12mm OD Matt Black fittings
7x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 2000-PWM w/ White Chromax
Corsair Commander Mini fancontroller
Custom Cablemod sleeved cables
Cablemod Widebeam Hybrid LED kit
Mayhems Pastel Extreme - White coolant

Specs are in my sig.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> My new build. Mostly EKWB parts, except for fittings and monoblock (EKWB didn't make a monoblock for my board).
> 
> My EK parts are:
> EKWB EK-RES X4 250 reservoir
> EKWB EK-XTOP REVO Dual D5 PWM Pump
> EKWB EK-CoolStream PE 480 radiator
> EKWB EK-CoolStream SE 360 radiator
> EK-FC1070 GTX - Acetal+Nickel
> EKWB EK-HD tubing
> 
> The rest are:
> Bitspower Thor AIX99 Monoblock
> Bitspower 12mm OD Matt Black fittings
> 7x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 2000-PWM w/ White Chromax
> Corsair Commander Mini fancontroller
> Custom Cablemod sleeved cables
> Cablemod Widebeam Hybrid LED kit
> Mayhems Pastel Extreme - White coolant
> 
> Specs are in my sig.


Looks sick









Hard tubing realy does it's part to make it even more clean and "professional", but i refrained from it yet. For one i dont have a heatgun nor ANY experience in heatbending acrylic tubes, so i would probably have wasted 10 meters of tubing before i managed to get the first usable one^^. The second reason being that i now heared that several times that har tubing and the accompanying use of WAY MORE fittings holds a much larger risk of having leaks than classic soft tubing. But cudos to anyone who pulls of an impressive, clean hard tubing build like yours!


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> The second reason being that i now heared that several times that har tubing and the accompanying use of WAY MORE fittings holds a much larger risk of having leaks than classic soft tubing.


I thought (and I could most definitely be wrong) that hard tubing allowed the use of LESS fittings, because you can bend 90 degree (and other) turns instead of being forced to use a fitting for it.

I don't know this for sure, as I haven't done anything whatsoever with hard tubing (yet.) One of the reasons I was considering it was to REDUCE the number of fittings I'd need, so I'd really like to read more on this...


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Looks sick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hard tubing realy does it's part to make it even more clean and "professional", but i refrained from it yet. For one i dont have a heatgun nor ANY experience in heatbending acrylic tubes, so i would probably have wasted 10 meters of tubing before i managed to get the first usable one^^. The second reason being that i now heared that several times that har tubing and the accompanying use of WAY MORE fittings holds a much larger risk of having leaks than classic soft tubing. But cudos to anyone who pulls of an impressive, clean hard tubing build like yours!


Thanks!!

It really does make it look better. This is my first ever watercooled PC. Went straight to hard tubes, as I didn't like the soft tube look.

That's the reason why I went with fittings instead of bending the tubes. I have everything I need to bend them I was just too lazy to try and bend them and probably waste 5-10m in trying so.
I used quite a few fittings and haven't had a leak at all since I built it beginning of this year. These Bitspower fittings have double O-rings inside so the chance of leakage is at bare minimum.

So there is a minimal risk, which I find it well worth it in the end if you have a nice looking rig to stare at







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> I thought (and I could most definitely be wrong) that hard tubing allowed the use of LESS fittings, because you can bend 90 degree (and other) turns instead of being forced to use a fitting for it.
> 
> I don't know this for sure, as I haven't done anything whatsoever with hard tubing (yet.) One of the reasons I was considering it was to REDUCE the number of fittings I'd need, so I'd really like to read more on this...


Really depends what style you go for. I like the use of fitting for bends which gives it a sleeker look, rather than having big ass curved bends, which makes it more versatile and easier to change out tubes when you need to cut a piece off. Rather than having to bend an entire new piece just because you cut off too much or too little.

More fittings doesn't automatically mean more chance of leakage. It's also the quality of the fittings that you need to take into consideration and how many O-rings are used to seal off the fitting. These Bitspower fittings are damn expensive and great quality and come with double O-rings inside of the fitting and another one at the end of it near the thread.

So as I said I haven't had a leak since I built. And it didn't even leak when I leaktested it.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> I thought (and I could most definitely be wrong) that hard tubing allowed the use of LESS fittings, because you can bend 90 degree (and other) turns instead of being forced to use a fitting for it.
> 
> I don't know this for sure, as I haven't done anything whatsoever with hard tubing (yet.) One of the reasons I was considering it was to REDUCE the number of fittings I'd need, so I'd really like to read more on this...


Ok, i was somewhat unprecise in my post.

It's either alot of heatbending, which you obviously have to learn first to make it look sharp and clean, OR excessive use of fittings. Agreed, if those bitspower fittings have double o-rings, they should be very safe. It's just that the statistically probability of a leakage goes up with each fitting/interconnect you have in your loop... and not to menation that those fittings cost a dime or two ^^

I just checked the prices ... those 90° tube connectors cost €15 EACH. I know, they look good and are probably of a good quality, but .. wow.
I made a List of what i would need to switch my Loop to 12/10 mm hardtubing with BitsPower fittings and adapters and PETG tubes

400€, half of what i already spent on the loop until now ....









Maybe later this year ...


----------



## nrpeyton

Last night I made a really stupid mistake.

One I thought it is absolutely impossible to make.

Well. Hell knows. But I done it.

Forgot to screw the plugs into unused ports on new GPU waterblock. (It was 5am--i'd been up all night & was tired).

Switched system on (not just the pump). and u get the picture.

Water went all over the VRM and CPU area on the motherboard.

I dived for the 'off switch' the moment i realised!

Dried everything I could see with paper towels.

There were some bits I could see but couldn't reach which are dry now. (13hrs later) I left the central heating on in the house.

There doesn't appear to be any visible damage. Never heard any pops or strange noises.

Surprisingly the GPU its self looked dry (except PCI-E lane which is now dry also)

Think its safe to try it?


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nrpeyton*
> 
> Think its safe to try it?


Personally, I'd go over it with a hair dryer (blow dryer) and then wait another 12 hours. I know it must be driving you nuts to wait, but waiting won't cause any harm (while not waiting might.)

My biggest fear would be: Did you use a silver coil in your loop? If so, you might have spread silver particles all over your electronics and they've dried in place.


----------



## nrpeyton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Personally, I'd go over it with a hair dryer (blow dryer) and then wait another 12 hours. I know it must be driving you nuts to wait, but waiting won't cause any harm (while not waiting might.)
> 
> My biggest fear would be: Did you use a silver coil in your loop? If so, you might have spread silver particles all over your electronics and they've dried in place.


No i didn't. (Silver coil).

Thanks for ur reply.

Just distilled water and EK coolant. (I heard distilled isn't actually as conductive).

I haven't had the cpu out the socket. Not sure if its worth removing.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nrpeyton*
> 
> Last night I made a really stupid mistake.
> 
> One I thought it is absolutely impossible to make.
> 
> Well. Hell knows. But I done it.
> 
> Forgot to screw the plugs into unused ports on new GPU waterblock. (It was 5am--i'd been up all night & was tired).
> 
> Switched system on (not just the pump). and u get the picture.
> 
> Water went all over the VRM and CPU area on the motherboard.
> 
> I dived for the 'off switch' the moment i realised!
> 
> Dried everything I could see with paper towels.
> 
> There were some bits I could see but couldn't reach which are dry now. (13hrs later) I left the central heating on in the house.
> 
> There doesn't appear to be any visible damage. Never heard any pops or strange noises.
> 
> Surprisingly the GPU its self looked dry (except PCI-E lane which is now dry also)
> 
> Think its safe to try it?


Oh man, i can feel ya









But noone is free of such mistakes, immediately remindet me of this:




However, to avoid the slightest chance of having drops of water anywhere left, i would pull out everything from the board, yes this includes all RAM modules and the CPU itself, and do what people have done for ages to repair bad solders on old mainboards or graficscards: Put the components into your oven and leave in there for 3-4 hours at 60°C with circulating air. This will not harm any parts, but it will make sure any last traces of water will evaporate.

Just make sure no one of your family gets in the kitchen und turns the oven up to 220°C to make french fries ....


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nrpeyton*
> 
> Just distilled water and EK coolant. (I heard distilled isn't actually as conductive).
> 
> I haven't had the cpu out the socket. Not sure if its worth removing.


If it was fresh water/coolant, then you're probably okay. Water itself is NOT conductive. It's all the minerals in water that conducts. Even distilled (purified) water can become conductive in a water loop over time by picking up various elements from the loop it flows within.

I'd still hit it with a blow dryer. I'd also pull the CPU to ensure the socket is dry, and disconnect ANYTHING that have water trapped in it, to ensure complete dryness.

At some point, though, you'll have to turn it on and see what happens... You can likely minimize risk by turning it on without the CPU, memory, etc installed.. just to make sure the m/b powers on and complains about the missing components. Then add the CPU, and test again... then memory... then graphics.

At least, that's how I'd deal with it. It might not be the best way to handle it, but it's my best guess.









Take care and good luck
Gary


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Ok, i was somewhat unprecise in my post.
> 
> It's either alot of heatbending, which you obviously have to learn first to make it look sharp and clean, OR excessive use of fittings. Agreed, if those bitspower fittings have double o-rings, they should be very safe. It's just that the statistically probability of a leakage goes up with each fitting/interconnect you have in your loop... and not to menation that those fittings cost a dime or two ^^
> 
> I just checked the prices ... those 90° tube connectors cost €15 EACH. I know, they look good and are probably of a good quality, but .. wow.
> I made a List of what i would need to switch my Loop to 12/10 mm hardtubing with BitsPower fittings and adapters and PETG tubes
> 
> 400€, half of what i already spent on the loop until now ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe later this year ...


Yeah, tell me about it. They're really expensive. But great quality. And that's not the most expensive fitting. The most expensive one is the Ball Valve, which cost around €37 per valve. That was too much for me to pay up. So I went with EKWB's Ball Valve instead.

If you want the same look as Bitspower fittings but at a lower cost you could go for Barrow fittings, they're almost identical, but don't cost an arm and a leg. And they're great quality aswell.

A lot of people I know use Barrow fittings and they're really happy with them.


----------



## ivannooz

First Ryzen UV white Build


----------



## nrpeyton

Thanks for all the replies guys.

Rep+ to everyone who made a suggestion.

I'm on it now! 

Edit:

Mobo and CPU seperated and in oven at 50c

I'll let uz know what happens

Edit 2:
Rebuild complete.
Moment of truth now (coming right up).

Just need to hit the power switch.


----------



## jvillaveces

I am finishing a new build using a Rampage V Ed. 10 motherboard. I put two cards in SLI, and because they leave two free slots between them, I got an FC Dual Parallel 3-Slot terminal to link them. I was disappointed and alarmed to find out that it doesn't fit, it's about 10mm too short (didn't measure, just eyeball). I searched on both the EK website and PPCS and couldn't find an alternative, so I'm asking here: what is the correct terminal to use in that mobo to link cards in the first and fourth slots (per the manual)? Or is this a non-standard mobo meaning the cards need to be linked by tubing?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I am finishing a new build using a Rampage V Ed. 10 motherboard. I put two cards in SLI, and because they leave two free slots between them, I got an FC Dual Parallel 3-Slot terminal to link them. I was disappointed and alarmed to find out that it doesn't fit, it's about 10mm too short (didn't measure, just eyeball). I searched on both the EK website and PPCS and couldn't find an alternative, so I'm asking here: what is the correct terminal to use in that mobo to link cards in the first and fourth slots (per the manual)? Or is this a non-standard mobo meaning the cards need to be linked by tubing?


The thing that always makes that confusing is the way slots are described . . .

Sometimes they are talked about in terms of the physical slot itself, but when it comes to terminals and such, what you really need to go by is the number of "Slot Positions"

All ATX boards have 7 slot positions, although few have 7 physical slots.

The pic is pretty dark, but it appears that . . .

Your cards are in the 1st and 5th slot positions, 4 slot positions between, so you need a 6 position terminal with a blank where you don't have a card.

6 positions would translate to a "triple" terminal or bridge.

It may well be much easier to use single terminals and tubes, or you'd need to blank the middle position on the triple terminal.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I am finishing a new build using a Rampage V Ed. 10 motherboard. I put two cards in SLI, and because they leave two free slots between them, I got an FC Dual Parallel 3-Slot terminal to link them. I was disappointed and alarmed to find out that it doesn't fit, it's about 10mm too short (didn't measure, just eyeball). I searched on both the EK website and PPCS and couldn't find an alternative, so I'm asking here: what is the correct terminal to use in that mobo to link cards in the first and fourth slots (per the manual)? Or is this a non-standard mobo meaning the cards need to be linked by tubing?


I was looking at the EK site while Diva posted.

I think this one here may work for you with one block off plate
EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Parallel


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I am finishing a new build using a Rampage V Ed. 10 motherboard. I put two cards in SLI, and because they leave two free slots between them, I got an FC Dual Parallel 3-Slot terminal to link them. I was disappointed and alarmed to find out that it doesn't fit, it's about 10mm too short (didn't measure, just eyeball). I searched on both the EK website and PPCS and couldn't find an alternative, so I'm asking here: what is the correct terminal to use in that mobo to link cards in the first and fourth slots (per the manual)? Or is this a non-standard mobo meaning the cards need to be linked by tubing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at the EK site while Diva posted.
> 
> I think this one here may work for you with one block off plate
> EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Parallel
Click to expand...

Yes,

Just took a look at one of my tri-fire setups with cards in the 1st and 5th slot positions, and the triple would work for you with a blanking plate.

Edited my previous post so as not to confuse.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I am finishing a new build using a Rampage V Ed. 10 motherboard. I put two cards in SLI, and because they leave two free slots between them, I got an FC Dual Parallel 3-Slot terminal to link them. I was disappointed and alarmed to find out that it doesn't fit, it's about 10mm too short (didn't measure, just eyeball). I searched on both the EK website and PPCS and couldn't find an alternative, so I'm asking here: what is the correct terminal to use in that mobo to link cards in the first and fourth slots (per the manual)? Or is this a non-standard mobo meaning the cards need to be linked by tubing?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing that always makes that confusing is the way slots are described . . .
> 
> Sometimes they are talked about in terms of the physical slot itself, but when it comes to terminals and such, what you really need to go by is the number of "Slot Positions"
> 
> All ATX boards have 7 slot positions, although few have 7 physical slots.
> 
> The pic is pretty dark, but it appears that . . .
> 
> Your cards are in the 1st and 5th slot positions, 4 slot positions between, so you need a 7 position terminal with blanks where you don't have a card.
> 
> It may well be much easier to use single terminals and tubes.
Click to expand...

I don't get it... Look at the new and improved version of my photo below: the bottom card is in the fourth slot: the top card is in first, numbers 2 and 3 are empty, number 4 is the bottom card. What am I missing here?



EDIT: I think I get it! You can see THREE empty PCI slots in my case between the cards, even though the are only two free mobo expansion slots. Is this what you mean?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nrpeyton*
> 
> Thanks for all the replies guys.
> 
> Rep+ to everyone who made a suggestion.
> 
> I'm on it now!
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Mobo and CPU seperated and in oven at 50c
> 
> I'll let uz know what happens
> 
> Edit 2:
> Rebuild complete.
> Moment of truth now (coming right up).
> 
> Just need to hit the power switch.


Well? I'm dying to find out what happened!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I am finishing a new build using a Rampage V Ed. 10 motherboard. I put two cards in SLI, and because they leave two free slots between them, I got an FC Dual Parallel 3-Slot terminal to link them. I was disappointed and alarmed to find out that it doesn't fit, it's about 10mm too short (didn't measure, just eyeball). I searched on both the EK website and PPCS and couldn't find an alternative, so I'm asking here: what is the correct terminal to use in that mobo to link cards in the first and fourth slots (per the manual)? Or is this a non-standard mobo meaning the cards need to be linked by tubing?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing that always makes that confusing is the way slots are described . . .
> 
> Sometimes they are talked about in terms of the physical slot itself, but when it comes to terminals and such, what you really need to go by is the number of "Slot Positions"
> 
> All ATX boards have 7 slot positions, although few have 7 physical slots.
> 
> The pic is pretty dark, but it appears that . . .
> 
> Your cards are in the 1st and 5th slot positions, 4 slot positions between, so you need a 6 position (or "triple") terminal with blanks where you don't have a card.
> 
> It may well be much easier to use single terminals and tubes.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't get it... Look at the new and improved version of my photo below: the bottom card is in the fourth slot: the top card is in first, numbers 2 and 3 are empty, number 4 is the bottom card. What am I missing here?
Click to expand...

Count the screws that secure the PCI slot blanks . . .

Your first card is held by the first screw, the second card is held by the 5th screw. . . . 1st and 5th positions

There's a slot position between what you have labeled as 1 and 2., so that 2 is actually 3 and so forth . . .


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I am finishing a new build using a Rampage V Ed. 10 motherboard. I put two cards in SLI, and because they leave two free slots between them, I got an FC Dual Parallel 3-Slot terminal to link them. I was disappointed and alarmed to find out that it doesn't fit, it's about 10mm too short (didn't measure, just eyeball). I searched on both the EK website and PPCS and couldn't find an alternative, so I'm asking here: what is the correct terminal to use in that mobo to link cards in the first and fourth slots (per the manual)? Or is this a non-standard mobo meaning the cards need to be linked by tubing?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing that always makes that confusing is the way slots are described . . .
> 
> Sometimes they are talked about in terms of the physical slot itself, but when it comes to terminals and such, what you really need to go by is the number of "Slot Positions"
> 
> All ATX boards have 7 slot positions, although few have 7 physical slots.
> 
> The pic is pretty dark, but it appears that . . .
> 
> Your cards are in the 1st and 5th slot positions, 4 slot positions between, so you need a 7 position terminal with blanks where you don't have a card.
> 
> It may well be much easier to use single terminals and tubes.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't get it... Look at the new and improved version of my photo below: the bottom card is in the fourth slot: the top card is in first, numbers 2 and 3 are empty, number 4 is the bottom card. What am I missing here?
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Count the screws that secure the PCI slot blanks . . .
> 
> Your first card is held by the first screw, the second card is held by the 5th screw. . . . 1st and 5th positions
Click to expand...

You're too quick! I edited my previous post to add that thoujght, but by the time I posted my edit you had already replied. Thanks and to @Barefooter as well. I'm omw to get the triple terminal and blanking plate, I much prefer the looks over tubing


----------



## nrpeyton

Just reporting back.

PC is back up & running perfectly


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nrpeyton*
> 
> Just reporting back.
> 
> PC is back up & running perfectly


Congratulations, lucky break!


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nrpeyton*
> 
> Just reporting back.
> 
> PC is back up & running perfectly


GREAT! I'm very, very happy that everything worked out. Spraying water inside your computer is a scary experience.

I'm learning from your experience: As an early father's day gift, my kids gave me an EK 1080 G1 block for my gigabyte card. (It's only "early" so I can ensure it's not cracked,etc before the short return window closes.) I won't be able to actually install it until tomorrow evening (or perhaps over the weekend) but after opening the box, the FIRST thing I did was to put the plugs in the two holes I know I won't be using.

So, thank YOU as well.









Take care
Gary


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nrpeyton*
> 
> Just reporting back.
> 
> PC is back up & running perfectly


Good to hear. Glad it all worked out for you.


----------



## jleslie246

Question on the 3mm LED holes on EK plexi block tops. Should a 3mm LED be extremely tight so just the tip goes in?







How far in do i want to cram them in?

Than you


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nrpeyton*
> 
> Just reporting back.
> 
> PC is back up & running perfectly


Good to hear that


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Question on the 3mm LED holes on EK plexi block tops. Should a 3mm LED be extremely tight so just the tip goes in?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How far in do i want to cram them in?
> 
> Than you


Cram 'em in as far as they go. They will sit flush with the block that way and won't fall out.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Question on the 3mm LED holes on EK plexi block tops. Should a 3mm LED be extremely tight so just the tip goes in?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How far in do i want to cram them in?
> 
> Than you


Until the lip of the LED makes contact with the block. They fit tight.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Exactly.
> 
> I ordered an ek res lite 150 just for the stupid fitting that comes only with the res that gives you the possibility of mounting it directly on the dual Revo d5 setup (can't by it separately although it is a custom loop designed to be extended and upgraded). Basically money out the door for one extension. If it also comes with plastic plugs ... Not gonna continue my thoughts.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> ALL ek products that are advertised as having metal plugs are coming with ghetto plastic plugs now.


Luckily the X3 150 lite came with metal plugs.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Yeah, tell me about it. They're really expensive. But great quality. And that's not the most expensive fitting. The most expensive one is the Ball Valve, which cost around €37 per valve. That was too much for me to pay up. So I went with EKWB's Ball Valve instead.
> 
> If you want the same look as Bitspower fittings but at a lower cost you could go for Barrow fittings, they're almost identical, but don't cost an arm and a leg. And they're great quality aswell.
> 
> A lot of people I know use Barrow fittings and they're really happy with them.


Hey, if you infos to the left are correct, your from euope!

Do you know any other source than getting them via aliexpress from china?
Because yes they are cheaper, but when i import them, i fear customs and taxes will eat up any savings i made in the firstplace









Any european etailer for those?


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Hey, if you infos to the left are correct, your from euope!
> 
> Do you know any other source than getting them via aliexpress from china?
> Because yes they are cheaper, but when i import them, i fear customs and taxes will eat up any savings i made in the firstplace
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any european etailer for those?


Yes, my info is correct.
I bought a few Barrow fittings on aliexpress never had to pay any taxes for those.
Unfortunately I don't know of any Barrow sellers within the EU. You could check out highflow.nl they ship worldwide and sell quite a few different brands of fittings. Not sure if they sell Barrow.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Hey, if you infos to the left are correct, your from euope!
> 
> Do you know any other source than getting them via aliexpress from china?
> Because yes they are cheaper, but when i import them, i fear customs and taxes will eat up any savings i made in the firstplace
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any european etailer for those?


I'm usually buying Barrow fittings from this seller there, very fast shipping

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/mizucooling/Other-Fittings-/_i.html?_dmd=2&_fsub=8347385013&_sid=267273683&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322&_vc=1

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> I'm usually buying Barrow fittings from this seller there, very fast shipping
> 
> http://stores.ebay.co.uk/mizucooling/Other-Fittings-/_i.html?_dmd=2&_fsub=8347385013&_sid=267273683&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322&_vc=1
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


YES,

thank you very much, and prices are even very low for an european importer! Thanks alot!!


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> YES,
> 
> thank you very much, and prices are even very low for an european importer! Thanks alot!!


Hi there

Agree prices are very good and low for EU/UK seller although he don't have all possible fittings and other products from Barrow but if you contact him, I'm sure he will be able to help you with yours enquiries

Currently I'm using around 20 fittings from Barrow and no issues and mainly no leaks and for price they're just well worth it

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> Agree prices are very good and low for EU/UK seller although he don't have all possible fittings and other products from Barrow but if you contact him, I'm sure he will be able to help you with yours enquiries
> 
> Currently I'm using around 20 fittings from Barrow and no issues and mainly no leaks and for price they're just well worth it
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


I don't even think there is any meaningfull difference in quality between Barrows and BitsPower. People have even speculated it might be the same manufacturer, just selling under a different brand to make more revenue. One Youtuber even pointed out that the Barrow HardTube fittings might even be safer than the BitsPower ones, because the Barrow fittings have a 3 o-ring layout compared to "only" 2 for the BitsPower fittings:






And i also agree that i prefer having the fittings and connectors plain black ... that BitsPower logo they engrave onto all their products ... meh.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> I don't even think there is any meaningfull difference in quality between Barrows and BitsPower. People have even speculated it might be the same manufacturer, just selling under a different brand to make more revenue. One Youtuber even pointed out that the Barrow HardTube fittings might even be safer than the BitsPower ones, because the Barrow fittings have a 3 o-ring layout compared to "only" 2 for the BitsPower fittings:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And i also agree that i prefer having the fittings and connectors plain black ... that BitsPower logo they engrave onto all their products ... meh.


The devil would be in the type of rubber used in the o-rings and the manufacturing tolerances which we cannot really see.


----------



## b0oMeR

The parts start coming in


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0oMeR*
> 
> The parts start coming in


Sometimes, anticipation is the greatest fun .. as long as it doesn't take too long. I love the moments when new hardware arrives and you're just about to start something new ... excitement!!


----------



## vvv850

Hey guys, I just finished moving my parts to a Caselabs S8S + pedestal and also upgraded from a DDC to a Dual Revo G2 pumps.





In the pedestal I have 2 x XE360 in push/pull config.

Hope you like it.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Sometimes, anticipation is the greatest fun .. as long as it doesn't take too long. I love the moments when new hardware arrives and you're just about to start something new ... excitement!!


Really? I'm dreading draining + disassembly for my current loop to prepare to upgrade to the Enthoo Primo Ultimate 1200mm rad monstrosity.


----------



## b0oMeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Sometimes, anticipation is the greatest fun .. as long as it doesn't take too long. I love the moments when new hardware arrives and you're just about to start something new ... excitement!!


So excited!
Also picking up some used fittings tomorrow. Oddly enough, I am more excited to be grabbing used fittings over new parts!


----------



## utparatrooper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> You're too quick! I edited my previous post to add that thoujght, but by the time I posted my edit you had already replied. Thanks and to @Barefooter as well. I'm omw to get the triple terminal and blanking plate, I much prefer the looks over tubing


I have the same board with SLI. I asked EK on which terminal to use beforehand. Good thing I did too cause I had chosen the wrong one. Also you would need a terminal plate to seal off the middle ports. Be careful, the terminal is different whether you have a serial or parallel connector block.


----------



## nrpeyton

Anyone noticed if cleaning out all the dust trapped between fans & radiator, and case roof:
resulted in lower temps?

Mine is going to be a pain in the back to do.. so if it's not worth it I may leave it.

However my temps are getting too high. I'm running a power modified 1080Ti and an overclocked 7700k. And the water temp is rising up so much that my GPU is hitting up to 53c under load. _(but before the coolant gets up it stays in the mid 30's)._Then even at idle takes a good 5 minutes before the temp drops back down to the low 30's.

I'm running with a single EK Coolstream PE 360. (which is the medium thickness one). And 3 1800RPM Vardar fans.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nrpeyton*
> 
> Anyone noticed if cleaning out all the dust trapped between fans & radiator, and case roof:
> resulted in lower temps?
> 
> Mine is going to be a pain in the back to do.. so if it's not worth it I may leave it.
> 
> However my temps are getting too high. I'm running a power modified 1080Ti and an overclocked 7700k. And the water temp is rising up so much that my GPU is hitting up to 53c under load. _(but before the coolant gets up it stays in the mid 30's)._Then even at idle takes a good 5 minutes before the temp drops back down to the low 30's.
> 
> I'm running with a single EK Coolstream PE 360. (which is the medium thickness one). And 3 1800RPM Vardar fans.


Yes. And add another radiator.


----------



## nrpeyton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Yes. And add another radiator.


I plan to.

How many degrees are we talking with dust removal?

I know it's a wacky number to try and ask.. everyones will be different.. but roughly how significant a difference are we talking?

I've been water cooling for about 12 months now and never cleaned it yet. But it's not going to be a quick job. Due to having to remove things to get leverage.


----------



## smithsrt8

I have a couple of questions...I am starting my Build tonight and have some questions so I don't make any crazy mistakes (as this is my first water build that I have done myself)

My parts list is as follows (please feel free to critique and tell me anything I should change...I will also attach a picture as well)

Case - Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Tempered glass (I had a Meanit 5pm case which is awesome...but does not allow for thick radiators in the top and only allows for a 45 in push/pull in the front)
Radiators - EK 360 x1 and EK 240 x1 (I had the radiators in the picture, 2 XT45 240mm/1 UT60 120mm then found out that the top doesn't support a 240mm and I cannot go push/pull in the front with the xt45)...I then returned the XT45 and UT60 and got a 360GTS...I then just said screw it and returned them all...bought a new case...and bought the 2 new radiators)
Tubing - XSPC Clear UV I went soft tubing being my first water build...I heard a lot of good things about XSPC and Primochill so I picked up XSPC UV clear tube and going with red fluid (here comes the stains)
Pump - EK Xres 140 D5...I liked the idea of all in one
Connections - XSPC 90 degree and compression fittings
Fans - Phanteks F120MP PWM x10 as I am going all push pull with this case/setup
CPU Block - EK Evo Elite (I liked the all nickel look)
GPU Block - EK Aorus 1080ti Block with backplate

I have 2 questions...if my ambient temp in the room is about 25-26c what kind of temps should I expect at idle and what is considered normal under load with a setup like this (2 thick good performing rads in push/pull)

Thank you guys in advance


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nrpeyton*
> 
> I plan to.
> 
> How many degrees are we talking with dust removal?
> 
> I know it's a wacky number to try and ask.. everyones will be different.. but roughly how significant a difference are we talking?
> 
> I've been water cooling for about 12 months now and never cleaned it yet. But it's not going to be a quick job. Due to having to remove things to get leverage.


It depends on how dusty. I did mine for the first time in 3 years the other day. It wasn't bad enough to make a difference. But I do blow out my system with the blower end of a shop vac. Many don't like this but I've done it for 30 years with no issues. Just unhook fans and be gentle where u need to be.


----------



## vvv850

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithsrt8*
> 
> I have a couple of questions...I am starting my Build tonight and have some questions so I don't make any crazy mistakes (as this is my first water build that I have done myself)
> 
> My parts list is as follows (please feel free to critique and tell me anything I should change...I will also attach a picture as well)
> 
> Case - Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Tempered glass (I had a Meanit 5pm case which is awesome...but does not allow for thick radiators in the top and only allows for a 45 in push/pull in the front)
> Radiators - EK 360 x1 and EK 240 x1 (I had the radiators in the picture, 2 XT45 240mm/1 UT60 120mm then found out that the top doesn't support a 240mm and I cannot go push/pull in the front with the xt45)...I then returned the XT45 and UT60 and got a 360GTS...I then just said screw it and returned them all...bought a new case...and bought the 2 new radiators)
> Tubing - XSPC Clear UV I went soft tubing being my first water build...I heard a lot of good things about XSPC and Primochill so I picked up XSPC UV clear tube and going with red fluid (here comes the stains)
> Pump - EK Xres 140 D5...I liked the idea of all in one
> Connections - XSPC 90 degree and compression fittings
> Fans - Phanteks F120MP PWM x10 as I am going all push pull with this case/setup
> CPU Block - EK Evo Elite (I liked the all nickel look)
> GPU Block - EK Aorus 1080ti Block with backplate
> 
> I have 2 questions...if my ambient temp in the room is about 25-26c what kind of temps should I expect at idle and what is considered normal under load with a setup like this (2 thick good performing rads in push/pull)
> 
> Thank you guys in advance






If everything works good, idle temps would be +1C +2C above water temps. Water temperature at idle can be between 1C and 3C over ambient depending on how efficient your fans and exhaust are.

It's hard to say what the load temps will be. Depends mostly on the the contact between blocks and IHS/die and flow. Is your CPU delidded?


----------



## smithsrt8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> 
> If everything works good, idle temps would be +1C +2C above water temps. Water temperature at idle can be between 1C and 3C over ambient depending on how efficient your fans and exhaust are.
> 
> It's hard to say what the load temps will be. Depends mostly on the the contact between blocks and IHS/die and flow. Is your CPU delidded?


I am delidded running at 1.36v @ 5ghz....My temps right now (with a Fractal Celsius S36) are about 35idle and 75ish under extreme load...


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithsrt8*
> 
> I am delidded running at 1.36v @ 5ghz....My temps right now (with a Fractal Celsius S36) are about 35idle and 75ish under extreme load...


What Tim between IHS and die?

All in all you should be around 7C delta T with that setup.


----------



## iamjanco

You guys with an FTW3 who want to put it on water may find the following interesting. Just received an update regarding the ETA for EK's block for it from EK support:

_Thank you for reaching out to us.

We apologize about the multiple delays on this waterblock and we thank you again for your continued patience.

We are now anticipating the EVGA 1080 TI FTW3 waterblock to be released in early July. If you wish, you can subscribe to our newsletter and we will send you an e-mail when we have the official announcement for it that will provide preorder information and dates when it will begin shipping out._

If EVGA comes up with a Hydro Copper version before then, I may go with that; or sell the FTW3 and simply use the 1080 EK X cards I already have on hand and wait for Volta.


----------



## smithsrt8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> What Tim between IHS and die?
> 
> All in all you should be around 7C delta T with that setup.


Thank you for your reply...I am running CLU and I am not sure if I will be using gelid extreme or thermal grizzly for my thermal paste as I have about 5g of each


----------



## slatanic

Love how the temps for watercooling (especially the gpu) are spread all over the place. (Yes there are different gpu's)

Also love the statement 'tested with some games'.
Gosh... what games? Counter Strike 1.6?

Would be much easier when everybody 'tested' with heaven/valley benchmark.

But I guess in that case some people can't present their super low temperatures.


----------



## zu903

Final finished cable sleeving and rebuilt my loop.


----------



## Barefooter

^^ Looks very nice


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slatanic*
> 
> Love how the temps for watercooling (especially the gpu) are spread all over the place. (Yes there are different gpu's)
> 
> Also love the statement 'tested with some games'.
> Gosh... what games? Counter Strike 1.6?
> 
> Would be much easier when everybody 'tested' with heaven/valley benchmark.
> 
> But I guess in that case some people can't present their super low temperatures.


i am sorry i dont understand.

you dont run my case, so my temps would be completely irrelevant to you. you dont want to run 5 480s, so again my temps are useless to you

beyond that temps dont matter as much as delta between chip and water, as ambient temps affect the temp where as no matter the ambient temp in general your delta will stay the same.

also your noise tolerance, are we benching where i crank my fans to 4250-5400 rpm? or do i keep them silent and use for normal useage. some people dont like fans over 750 rpm..... the list goes on.

you dont water cool because of temps.

you water cool because it is fun. the silence is a bonus


----------



## slatanic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am sorry i dont understand.
> 
> you dont run my case, so my temps would be completely irrelevant to you. you dont want to run 5 480s, so again my temps are useless to you
> 
> beyond that temps dont matter as much as delta between chip and water, as ambient temps affect the temp where as no matter the ambient temp in general your delta will stay the same.
> 
> also your noise tolerance, are we benching where i crank my fans to 4250-5400 rpm? or do i keep them silent and use for normal useage. some people dont like fans over 750 rpm..... the list goes on.
> 
> you dont water cool because of temps.
> 
> you water cool because it is fun. the silence is a bonus


Sorry dude
I wasn't talking to you. Just speaking generally.









And yes... Im aware of all those things you pointed out.


----------



## looniam

if you're going to criticize posts/people then be prepared to receive some yourself.


----------



## slatanic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> if you're going to criticize posts/people then be prepared to receive some yourself.


I didn't complain getting criticized.


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you dont water cool because of temps.


Wat.

Pretty sure it's because of temps. Otherwise the silent by product wouldn't even be on the table.


----------



## Chaoz

That's a first







. I mainly did it because of the temps and the silentness.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slatanic*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> if you're going to criticize posts/people then be prepared to receive some yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't complain getting criticized.
Click to expand...

didn't say you did.


----------



## akira749

EK releases water block for MSI® GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti graphics cards


----------



## smithsrt8

Arg!! That backplate is so much cooler/better looking than the one for the Aorus!

How come MSI always makes better looking products...even when they don't make it themselves!


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithsrt8*
> 
> Arg!! That backplate is so much cooler/better looking than the one for the Aorus!
> 
> How come MSI always makes better looking products...even when they don't make it themselves!


Damn that looks SICK!


----------



## elbeasto

Quick question about the MSI 1080 Ti Seahawk EK X, can you take off the existing, black in/out thread to use an EK SLi connector?

In other words, can you connect them the same as two regular EK blocks in SLi?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you dont water cool because of temps.
> 
> 
> 
> Wat.
> 
> Pretty sure it's because of temps. Otherwise the silent by product wouldn't even be on the table.
Click to expand...

Then your doing it wrong

You can get good enough by air, and with far less maint.

You water cool for aesthetics, silence, fun. Or you will burn out and rage quit.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Then your doing it wrong
> 
> You can get good enough by air, and with far less maint.
> 
> You water cool for aesthetics, silence, fun. Or you will burn out and rage quit.


Then please let me know how can I get similar cooling and noise performance on an 1080ti without water cooling.


----------



## war4peace

I watercooled because I dreamed of doing it for years, and it took its sweet time for me to afford it. Now I'm happy, and wish I had the time to tinker with it more.

Also my question for today: I ordered a EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial and I'll put 2x of these on it (without the tops, of course). I'm using EK-DuraClear tubing, 2x EK-CoolStream XE 360 radiators and EK-only fittings. Pretty much the entire loop is EK except for some accessories (flow meter, temp sensor and some sexy Darkside 3-Way G1/4 Flow Splitters).

Should I be worried about too much pressure in the loop?


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I watercooled because I dreamed of doing it for years, and it took its sweet time for me to afford it. Now I'm happy, and wish I had the time to tinker with it more.
> 
> Also my question for today: I ordered a EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial and I'll put 2x of these on it (without the tops, of course). I'm using EK-DuraClear tubing, 2x EK-CoolStream XE 360 radiators and EK-only fittings. Pretty much the entire loop is EK except for some accessories (flow meter, temp sensor and some sexy Darkside 3-Way G1/4 Flow Splitters).
> 
> Should I be worried about too much pressure in the loop?


Why would you worry about loop pressure? Your loop pressure at 1GPM (about 3500 pump rpm) would be around 400mbar.


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Then your doing it wrong
> 
> You can get good enough by air, and with far less maint.
> 
> You water cool for aesthetics, silence, fun. Or you will burn out and rage quit.


I'm surprised to see someone this far off. Silence yes, custom loop as good as air. Never.
Water loops exist for three reasons:

-It looks nice, yes.
-It CAN be silent depending on your heat dissipation ceiling.
-It will ALWAYS be more efficient at dissipating heat.

It's pretty easy to achieve silent operation with a custom loop and stomp the crap out of a air cooler with heat pipes to get a great OC.
Not sure why you would think the pursuit is to match the temps of an aircooler and pay 800% the cost just to drop your cases dba a bit.
If that's all you think it's about then I'm sorry.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Then your doing it wrong
> 
> You can get good enough by air, and with far less maint.
> 
> You water cool for aesthetics, silence, fun. Or you will burn out and rage quit.
> 
> 
> 
> Then please let me know how can I get similar cooling and *noise performance* on an 1080ti without water cooling.
Click to expand...

Thanks for proving my point
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Then your doing it wrong
> 
> You can get good enough by air, and with far less maint.
> 
> You water cool for aesthetics, silence, fun. Or you will burn out and rage quit.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm surprised to see someone this far off. Silence yes, custom loop as good as air. Never.
> Water loops exist for three reasons:
> 
> -It looks nice, yes.
> -It CAN be silent depending on your heat dissipation ceiling.
> -It will ALWAYS be more efficient at dissipating heat.
> 
> It's pretty easy to achieve silent operation with a custom loop and stomp the crap out of a air cooler with heat pipes to get a great OC.
> Not sure why you would think the pursuit is to match the temps of an aircooler and pay 800% the cost just to drop your cases dba a bit.
> If that's all you think it's about then I'm sorry.
Click to expand...

Your wrong, feel free to show me a modern architecture that is limited by temps, on high end cooling, that is fixable on water. Even with delid.

Does your oc increase via water cooling over high air? Or is the density of the die, due to node shrinks causing you to be volt limited...... And if you say fx, I will laugh at you.....


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Why would you worry about loop pressure? Your loop pressure at 1GPM (about 3500 pump rpm) would be around 400mbar.


Because I'm not that knowledgeable, however now that you told me, I know








People usually ask something when they don't know it


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Thanks for proving my point
> Your wrong, feel free to show me a modern architecture that is limited by temps, on high end cooling, that is fixable on water. Even with delid.
> 
> Does your oc increase via water cooling over high air? Or is the density of the due, due to node shrinks causing you to be volt limited......


So if I'm in a 30c environment. And I DON'T want my GPU or CPU to thermal throttle with a OC. You're gona point me to an air cooler that does this while being nearly silent.
Keep in mind there are hotter places in the world and climate control isn't always an option. I mean wow.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Thanks for proving my point
> Your wrong, feel free to show me a modern architecture that is limited by temps, on high end cooling, that is fixable on water. Even with delid.
> 
> Does your oc increase via water cooling over high air? Or is the density of the die, due to node shrinks causing you to be volt limited...... And if you say fx, I will laugh at you.....


Typical out of context interpretation. Are you a politician? Just joking.

Yeah, the OC increases on water on an 1080ti.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Because I'm not that knowledgeable, however now that you told me, I know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People usually ask something when they don't know it


Point taken.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Thanks for proving my point
> Your wrong, feel free to show me a modern architecture that is limited by temps, on high end cooling, that is fixable on water. Even with delid.
> 
> Does your oc increase via water cooling over high air? Or is the density of the die, due to node shrinks causing you to be volt limited...... And if you say fx, I will laugh at you.....
> 
> 
> 
> Typical out of context interpretation. Are you a politician? Just joking.
> 
> Yeah, the OC increases on water on an 1080ti.
Click to expand...

Ok by how much on average (%)


----------



## garyd9

Not sure about a percentage overclocking the GPU, but a 1080 can easily throttle on air with temps >= 80C. Under water, GPU temps never get even to 40C, so throttling isn't even a thought.

(I should clarify here: nvidia GPU's have some kind of turbo mode... I forget the name of it... that doesn't kick in if the GPU temps are over a certain point. When I mention "throttling", I'm referring to this turbo mode not kicking in due to high temps.)


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> So if I'm in a 30c environment. And I DON'T want my GPU or CPU to thermal throttle with a OC. You're gona point me to an air cooler that does this while being nearly silent.


Not taking sides here, but quiet OC'd GPU cooling is possible, might not be practical for everyone, but possible.

ProlimaTech MK-26


Raijintek Morpheus


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Not sure about a percentage overclocking the GPU, but a 1080 can easily throttle on air with temps >= 80C. Under water, GPU temps never get even to 40C, so throttling isn't even a thought.
> 
> (I should clarify here: nvidia GPU's have some kind of turbo mode... I forget the name of it... that doesn't kick in if the GPU temps are over a certain point. When I mention "throttling", I'm referring to this turbo mode not kicking in due to high temps.)


Nivida calls it gpu boost. But yeah gpu boost is vital to the cards performance expectation. So it's totally possible a 1080 will pull back the boost because of air cooling.
I agree it's not throttling as in worse then the gpu's normal clock speed. But it is throttling in the sense it's not boosting to its full potential and counted as lost performance.

Cpu's will do the exact same thing. So I'm kinda laughing this is even being talked about.


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Not taking sides here, but quiet OC'd GPU cooling is possible, might not be practical for everyone, but possible.
> ProlimaTech MK-26
> Raijintek Morpheus


Yeah not very practical, also not even made for a 10 series card.
I'd question how silent that is considering the how rare a modification is like that these days.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ok by how much on average (%)


Hey Mega Man, I think we are talking about different things. First, to answer you question: you can see a frequency increase (stable and long term) of 100 to 200 Mhz depending of the GPU heatsink size (2 slot, 3 slot). Also, some 1080 ti cards start downclocking from 60C. Then there is the situation when you have 2 or more cards. Love to see how you cope on air in that situation.

Second: The size and number of rads matter (you cannot add more coolers to one component on air). A thin 240 rad would have a comparable cooling capacity with a Noctua DH-15, but with one significant advantage: You can share the cooling capacity between components. Why use that capacity only on the CPU when you can use it on the GPU also? Most applications stress one component more over the other.

I, myself, was referring to custom loops with more radiator space than a kit. In my case, 2 x 360 thick rads + 1 x 240 medium rad, made way for me to up the 6700K to 4.9GHz at the same voltage for 4.8Ghz, up the 980ti to 1490Mhz from 1450MHz, reduce the case temp by a significant amount and lastly reduce the noise of the build. The same loop can support much more heat dissipation for future builds.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> Yeah not very practical, also not even made for a 10 series card.
> I'd question how silent that is considering the how rare a modification is like that these days.


The Morpheus II does fit 10-series cards.

I remember seeing reviews of it dropping 25c on a EVGA SC 780Ti with an ACX cooler. So 50 to 60c-ish under full synthetic load(Furmark for example) with pretty quiet fans. So I'd say it works pretty well.

(And the 780Ti has very similar heat output to the 1080Ti fyi)

Edit: The MK-26 fits 10-series cards too...


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> The Morpheus II does fit 10-series cards.
> 
> I remember seeing reviews of it dropping 25c on a EVGA SC 780Ti with an ACX cooler. So 50 to 60c-ish under full synthetic load(Furmark for example) with pretty quiet fans. So I'd say it works pretty well.
> 
> (And the 780Ti has very similar heat output to the 1080Ti fyi)


All depends on ambient temps and what your case has. The hotter the environment get's the more you notice worse temps on an air cooler. Honestly I don't see it being better then what comes on a FTW3 or kingpin card.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> All depends on ambient temps and what your case has. Honestly I don't see it being better then what comes on a FTW3 or kingpin card.


You asked why you don't see this mod all that often, well you just answered it yourself. People can't comprehend that their fancy 2 slot cards can possibly be worse than a giant aftermarket cooler for some reason.

Just because a GPU comes with a decent air cooler doesn't mean an aftermarket cooler can't be better. That's like saying "My AMD wraith is a pretty nice stock cooler, surely an NH-D15 can't be better!".

A cooler nearly double as big with fans with at least 20mm more in diameter and 3 times as thick is going to me much better, why wouldn't it be?


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> You asked why you don't see this mod all that often, well you just answered it yourself. People can't comprehend that their fancy 2 slot cards can possibly be worse than a giant aftermarket cooler for some reason.
> 
> Just because a GPU comes with a decent air cooler doesn't mean an aftermarket cooler can't be better. That's like saying "My AMD wraith is a pretty nice stock cooler, surely an NH-D15 can't be better!".
> 
> A cooler nearly double as big with fans with at least 20mm more in diameter and 3 times as thick is going to me much better, why wouldn't it be?


Well you missed my edit. But do know that the efficiency of air coolers is much less then water. I mean the auto industry moved from air cooled engines for a reason. So the more your environment changes the more you notice a impact on you giant air cooler. Even in climate controlled environments computers do heat up the room they sit in at the very least.

I think the reason people don't do it is actually covered partially in vvv850 last post. Space is a problem. It looks awful. It's probably no friend to your pcie slot in terms of weight, and you are much more likely to get a good result water cooling if your going to bother doing anything at all. You are also much more likely to have a successful silent system if you did your homework.

I'd love to see a review on an aftermarket air cooler that beats a kingpin while still maintaining a 2 slot profile however.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> Yeah not very practical, also not even made for a 10 series card.
> I'd question how silent that is considering the how rare a modification is like that these days.


Hi there

I have run Raijintek Morpheus II on my Titan X SC Maxwell with EK Vardar F3 1850RPM, card has been OC to 1469MHz and temps under load has been under 50°C usually in region 42-45°C during the rendering or gaming and fan speed has been at 1000-1200RPM as most

Only in higher ambient temperatures in 30°C I've seen higher temps but never seen temps beyond 55°C

With 17-18°C ambient idle temperature has been close to ambient

Here is screenshot of Titan X SC Maxwell idle temps and Zotac GTX1080 AMP(Zotac is top and Titan X is bottom card)










Under water same card has have lower temps, under load I've seen 32-36°C as max with same OC, temps has been only higher when in [email protected]

These coolers can be massive and can take lots of space but still they cool lot better than most AIB or AIO or CLC coolers but all depends on airflow of the case as usually

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> I have run Raijintek Morpheus II on my Titan X SC Maxwell with EK Vardar F3 1850RPM, card has been OC to 1469MHz and temps under load has been under 50°C usually in region 42-45°C during the rendering or gaming and fan speed has been at 1000-1200RPM as most


I can see someone being interested in doing it if they have a blower card in a large case.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> Well you missed my edit. But do know that the efficiency of air coolers is much less then water. I mean the auto industry moved from air cooled engines for a reason.


The reason is that it is impractical to add fins to the engine block so that it dissipates heat efficiently. You can move heat dissipation wherever you like and at the same time have the engine positioned longitudinal, transversal or central (rear is the same as front) with water cooling.

It basically boils down to this: air cools water -> water cools component, or air cools heatsink -> heatsink cools component. Everything depends on the surface area able to be cooled by air.

I had an Arctic cooling Accelero on a 560ti Twin Frozr once. Never seen temps go over 50 and it was pretty much inaudible. But it was thicker and longer than the stock setup. As is a water cooling radiator. The difference is, you can move it anywhere, configure it in push pull and set it up so that it gets the coolest air possible (ambient or near ambient).


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> The reason is that it is impractical to add fins to the engine block so that it dissipates heat efficiently. You can move heat dissipation wherever you like and at the same time have the engine positioned longitudinal, transversal or central (rear is the same as front) with water cooling.
> 
> It basically boils down to this: air cools water -> water cools component, or air cools heatsink -> heatsink cools component. Everything depends on the surface area able to be cooled by air.
> 
> I had an Arctic cooling Accelero on a 560ti Twin Frozr once. Never seen temps go over 50 and it was pretty much inaudible. But it was thicker and longer than the stock setup. As is a water cooling radiator. The difference is, you can move it anywhere, configure it in push pull and set it up so that it gets the coolest air possible (ambient or near ambient).


The ability of water to move heat away from the source is the point. But ALSO water is stronger thermal conductor and radiator channel designs allows a lot more of the fins transferring heat to be in contact with the water before it leaves the radiator. It's not entirely about relocating the heat. It is in fact a more efficient design without even considering the benefit of relocation. I do wrench on my car as much as my computer.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> Quick question about the MSI 1080 Ti Seahawk EK X, can you take off the existing, black in/out thread to use an EK SLi connector?
> 
> In other words, can you connect them the same as two regular EK blocks in SLi?


The shroud over the Terminal can be removed if you want to install a dual or triple Terminal. You can even re-install it after.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Not taking sides here, but quiet OC'd GPU cooling is possible, might not be practical for everyone, but possible.
> 
> ProlimaTech MK-26
> 
> 
> Raijintek Morpheus


Oh hey look, it's the coolers a lot if subzero benchers use to tweak things when there isn't a Tek9 or Raptor3 attached to the card and filled with dry ice or LN2. I still want to get one myself because of how useful and versatile they are,not to mention how they outperform most stock coolers out there (and of course, they leave room for hard volt mods and such)...


----------



## HaykOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Thanks for proving my point
> Your wrong, feel free to show me a modern architecture that is limited by temps, on high end cooling, that is fixable on water. Even with delid.
> 
> Does your oc increase via water cooling over high air? Or is the density of the die, due to node shrinks causing you to be volt limited...... And if you say fx, I will laugh at you.....


Original Maxwell GTX Titan X, the AMD FX9590? Even beefy air coolers gave me trouble with those, that said Im far from an expert.


----------



## Gilles3000

Replies in bold. (sorry for the long post everyone)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> But do know that the efficiency of air coolers is much less then water.
> *In what way exactly?*
> 
> I mean the auto industry moved from air cooled engines for a reason.
> *The auto industry moved to water cooling for a very different reason, packaging and the need to get cooling to specific parts of the engine. CPU's and GPU are ver 2 dimensional when it comes to cooling, engines are not.*
> 
> Space is a problem.
> *Is it, the vast majority of people uses ATX with a single GPU and no other expansion cards, plenty of space.*
> 
> It looks awful.
> *Doesn't have to.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's probably no friend to your pcie slot in terms of weight,
> *They are much lighter than a copper waterblock, even without it being filled with water, so...?*
> 
> and you are much more likely to get a good result water cooling if your going to bother doing anything at all.
> *Water cooling is also much more expensive and time consuming, there are 2 sides to this coin.*
> 
> You are also much more likely to have a successful silent(no such thing) *quiet* system if you did your homework.
> *I assume you're implying with water? If you do your homework on air, you also know how to set up your case for proper airflow to get good results. resulting in a quiet system.*
> 
> I'd love to see a review on an aftermarket air cooler that beats a kingpin while still maintaining a 2 slot profile however.
> *That's never going to happen, it simply not possible due to the amount of components on the GPU and them not being consistent across all models. Well, unless board partners suddenly start moving all the tall components to the back of the GPU (also never going to happen).
> 
> Motherboards are usually designed with aftermarket cooling in mind, GPU's just aren't.*


Edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> But ALSO water is stronger thermal conductor


Only, its not. Water is not that great when it comes to thermal conductivity. Although it does have good specific heat (thermal capacity).


----------



## war4peace

Just use mercury and be done with it


----------



## garyd9

I don't look at water as being a "better" cooling solution. In fact, modern "air" coolers and water coolers are both using similar ideas to try to move heat away from the hot surface before attempting to cool it.

In fact, I can describe both cooling methods in the same way: A flat chunk of metal is pressed against the heat source. Channels containing a non-solid material flows through the flat chunk of metal and absorbs the heat. That (now hot) material moves to a different physical location that is cooler and has "fins" with lots of surface area. Fans blow on (and cool) the "fins."

For me, the biggest differences are that, with water, I can carry the heat a much greater distance to an area where I can fit a LOT more fins (via a pump.) That allows me much more freedom in laying out the case interior, and because I can carry the heat a greater distance and have a much larger cooling surface, I'm able to carry more heat away from the hot spots more quickly.

If you had a water cooler limited to only 2x 120mm fans with a slow pumping action, it really doesn't perform any better than a big dual tower air cooler. (This has been shown when comparing those big coolers to the various AiO asetek packages.)

On the other hand, with a custom loop, I'm NOT limited to a slow pumping action, and I'm not limited to 2x 120mm fans. That gives me much better cooling for the same fan noise. As well, being I can move the "fins" anywhere I want, I have more flexibility in regards to cosmetics.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ok by how much on average (%)
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Mega Man, I think we are talking about different things. First, to answer you question: you can see a frequency increase (stable and long term) of 100 to 200 Mhz depending of the GPU heatsink size (2 slot, 3 slot). Also, some 1080 ti cards start downclocking from 60C. Then there is the situation when you have 2 or more cards. Love to see how you cope on air in that situation.
> 
> Second: The size and number of rads matter (you cannot add more coolers to one component on air). A thin 240 rad would have a comparable cooling capacity with a Noctua DH-15, but with one significant advantage: You can share the cooling capacity between components. Why use that capacity only on the CPU when you can use it on the GPU also? Most applications stress one component more over the other.
> 
> I, myself, was referring to custom loops with more radiator space than a kit. In my case, 2 x 360 thick rads + 1 x 240 medium rad, made way for me to up the 6700K to 4.9GHz at the same voltage for 4.8Ghz, up the 980ti to 1490Mhz from 1450MHz, reduce the case temp by a significant amount and lastly reduce the noise of the build. The same loop can support much more heat dissipation for future builds.
Click to expand...

you are completely sidestepping and obfuscating, which is fine and frankly hilarious

as to " first" it is very easy, from what i understand the ftw 1080ti does just fine WITHOUT watercooling, so to say it cant be done is false. ( i have to go off of what i read on here, as i wont pay for nvidia when they are far far inferior for me )

as to second you leave out the only reason to " share the cooling capacity between components. Why use that capacity only on the CPU when you can use it on the GPU also? " is to make it more SILENT on average which you mention on "lastly" ( thanks for proving my point, again )

my finally is 100-200 mghz is what a ~5% increase which in RL is what 1-10 fps ?

so you will be ok paying

100 for pump and top
200 for block
100 for rad and fittings ( a bit bloated for average user, but considering i am neglecting stuff like tubing, coolant, maint, downtime, and all other costs associated [tim, pads, fans ect] i feel it is a reasonable concession )
for 5-10 fps ? please stop trying to fool yourself.

the temps are nice, but NO ONE** watercools for that in today's world, they

love the hobby
silence
aesthetics
and no AIO junk does not count
{** please note this is a "rule" as with any rule there is always an exception, but they are by far a MINORITY [ 1-5% ] and not a MAJORITY }
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HaykOC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Thanks for proving my point
> Your wrong, feel free to show me a modern architecture that is limited by temps, on high end cooling, that is fixable on water. Even with delid.
> 
> Does your oc increase via water cooling over high air? Or is the density of the die, due to node shrinks causing you to be volt limited...... And if you say fx, I will laugh at you.....
> 
> 
> 
> Original Maxwell GTX Titan X, the AMD FX9590? Even beefy air coolers gave me trouble with those, that said Im far from an expert.
Click to expand...

you are literally comparing something that came out in 2011 ( ehm, the fx [email protected] ) the Original Maxwell GTX Titan X while released in 2015 is a rehash of a chip from 2010, so if you want to call that modern, feel free.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> I don't look at water as being a "better" cooling solution. In fact, modern "air" coolers and water coolers are both using similar ideas to try to move heat away from the hot surface before attempting to cool it.
> 
> In fact, I can describe both cooling methods in the same way: A flat chunk of metal is pressed against the heat source. Channels containing a non-solid material flows through the flat chunk of metal and absorbs the heat. That (now hot) material moves to a different physical location that is cooler and has "fins" with lots of surface area. Fans blow on (and cool) the "fins."
> 
> For me, the biggest differences are that, with water, I can carry the heat a much greater distance to an area where I can fit a LOT more fins (via a pump.) That allows me much more freedom in laying out the case interior, and because I can carry the heat a greater distance and have a much larger cooling surface, I'm able to carry more heat away from the hot spots more quickly.
> 
> If you had a water cooler limited to only 2x 120mm fans with a slow pumping action, it really doesn't perform any better than a big dual tower air cooler. (This has been shown when comparing those big coolers to the various AiO asetek packages.)
> 
> On the other hand, with a custom loop, I'm NOT limited to a slow pumping action, and I'm not limited to 2x 120mm fans. That gives me much better cooling for the same fan noise. As well, being I can move the "fins" anywhere I want, I have more flexibility in regards to cosmetics.


thank you again proves my point !


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> On the other hand, with a custom loop, I'm NOT limited to a slow pumping action, and I'm not limited to 2x 120mm fans. That gives me much better cooling for the same fan noise. As well, being I can move the "fins" anywhere I want, I have more flexibility in regards to cosmetics.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> thank you again proves my point !


Well, it doesn't actually prove your point. Oh, up to a point it agrees with you, but when getting into extremes, the points I make that differentiate air and water cooling become factors that can make air cooling impractical or even impossible. Those same factors allow enhancing a water cooling setup beyond the capabilities of air cooling.

Being this is OCN, and the water cooling forum within OCN, those "extremes" become more commonplace.


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> as to " first" it is very easy, from what i understand the ftw 1080ti does just fine WITHOUT watercooling, so to say it cant be done is false. ( i have to go off of what i read on here, as i wont pay for nvidia when they are far far inferior for me )


Lol I'm done, the responses in this thread are too troll for me as I know you'll never walk what you talk. I mean some of you mine as well say oh yeah it works great, I just go over to the thermostat on the wall and set my room to 20c.

What was about the fact watercooling cools better and for that reason gives you the overhead to run it silently has now turned into and effort to say air cooling is just as good AND silent to the ear. I mean lol.

Mega man you mine as well just left out the silent part and just said it looks cool. Chao


----------



## Mega Man

You keep trying to twist my words, I never said air cooling was as good as water cooling.

That is what you put in my mouth.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DigitrevX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you dont water cool because of temps.
> 
> 
> 
> Wat.
> Pretty sure it's because of temps. Otherwise the silent by product wouldn't even be on the table.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Then your doing it wrong
> 
> *You can get good enough by air*, and with far less maint.
> 
> You water cool for aesthetics, silence, fun. Or you will burn out and rage quit.
Click to expand...

(Edited excessive spacing in the quote by you)

No where did i or would i say air=water, other people falsely did, water is the more qualified coolant, for a multitude of reasons.

That said, you proved my punt many tonnes, and are simply running away, not admitting you were incorrect, being incorrect is fine. I am more often then not.

The other thing you miss, is i have more water cooling then most everyone.
5-480s in one 5-360s in another as then i have 5 more builds, this is moot a competition, but simply a fact. I love this i have since my first kit. A kingwin kit. Right after the diy phase and before we had any standards.

I am part of the exception. I don't need to do this, I LOVE to. But I am not living in a delusion as to why


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You keep trying to twist my words, I never said air cooling was as good as water cooling.
> 
> That is what you put in my mouth.
> (Edited excessive spacing in the quote by you)
> 
> No where did i or would i say air=water, other people falsely did, water is the more qualified coolant, for a multitude of reasons.
> 
> That said, you proved my punt many tonnes, and are simply running away, not admitting you were incorrect, being incorrect is fine. I am more often then not.
> 
> The other thing you miss, is i have more water cooling then most everyone.
> 5-480s in one 5-360s in another as then i have 5 more builds, this is moot a competition, but simply a fact. I love this i have since my first kit. A kingwin kit. Right after the diy phase and before we had any standards.
> 
> I am part of the exception. I don't need to do this, I LOVE to. But I am not living in a delusion as to why


Bro give me a break, I have 2 personal computers WC. But I've built many for other people and my job. And no I did not prove your point without some cleaver miss context.
I can't make it any more clear to you, water cools better then air. Thus you can turn your fans down which are the only thing making noise other then the barely audio-able pump because of the thermal dissipation is better then air solutions.

If you live in a hot environment it still cools better then air. In which your rig might not run silent but you will avoid throttling back. Just because it doesn't run silent doesn't mean you have failed at WC. It just means your ambient temps are high. But if you think your fans are loud WC in a hot environment you better bet they would be loud as hell on air.
If this is incomprehensible or you disagree you are just being argumentative which is pretty much what the last few pages have been so far. So with that there is no conversation.


----------



## emsj86

Why are you taking it personal man. Watercooling to gain performance is not so smart. Even water cooling for silence is kind of not the best idea (unless you have the money to spend) U agree its more for looks and to make thepc your own. Its a same you dont gain much performance from water cooling like you could in the past


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Why are you taking it personal man. Watercooling to gain performance is not so smart. Even water cooling for silence is kind of not the best idea (unless you have the money to spend) U agree its more for looks and to make thepc your own. Its a same you dont gain much performance from water cooling like you could in the past


You make it sound like my argument is it looks nice which is not the point of why I even responded. In a warm environment yes you do gain performance. Throttling is a thing.


----------



## elbeasto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The shroud over the Terminal can be removed if you want to install a dual or triple Terminal. You can even re-install it after.


Thanks akira.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you are completely sidestepping and obfuscating, which is fine and frankly hilarious
> 
> as to " first" it is very easy, from what i understand the ftw 1080ti does just fine WITHOUT watercooling, so to say it cant be done is false. ( i have to go off of what i read on here, as i wont pay for nvidia when they are far far inferior for me )
> 
> as to second you leave out the only reason to " share the cooling capacity between components. Why use that capacity only on the CPU when you can use it on the GPU also? " is to make it more SILENT on average which you mention on "lastly" ( thanks for proving my point, again )
> 
> my finally is 100-200 mghz is what a ~5% increase which in RL is what 1-10 fps ?
> 
> so you will be ok paying
> 
> 100 for pump and top
> 200 for block
> 100 for rad and fittings ( a bit bloated for average user, but considering i am neglecting stuff like tubing, coolant, maint, downtime, and all other costs associated [tim, pads, fans ect] i feel it is a reasonable concession )
> for 5-10 fps ? please stop trying to fool yourself.
> 
> the temps are nice, but NO ONE** watercools for that in today's world, they
> 
> love the hobby
> silence
> aesthetics
> and no AIO junk does not count
> {** please note this is a "rule" as with any rule there is always an exception, but they are by far a MINORITY [ 1-5% ] and not a MAJORITY }
> you are literally comparing something that came out in 2011 ( ehm, the fx [email protected] ) the Original Maxwell GTX Titan X while released in 2015 is a rehash of a chip from 2010, so if you want to call that modern, feel free.
> thank you again proves my point !


Even from this statement "Why use that capacity only on the CPU when you can use it on the GPU also? Most applications stress one component more over the other." you deducted that still silence is the motive even though it is not.

Regarding overclocking which for you, 200Mhz doesn't mean squat. In case of the GPU another benefit is having a stable boost which cannot be done with 2 slot GPUs.

You also haven't touched up on multi card setups which I mentioned in my previous post! Still noise is the reason?

You said that "*you* water cool for...". I do not water cool only for what you mentioned and that is why I replied. It seems that, from what I wrote, you only understood that I have proven your point. That's it for me regarding this discussion. Out of context point proving is not for people but for press scandals and politics.


----------



## Mega Man

Considering i do quad gpu I know it is possible to use air. Which I did not mention. ( we won't even go into the fact that most boards don't even offer 2 slot spacing anymore but 3-4 slot spacing for the first 2 x16 slots, if you can't cool your gpu, again ebkac, it isn't like the days of old with 2 slot spacing and cranking fans )

And again the ftw 1080 ti cools fine without a block. Which i did. " so it's possible"


----------



## czin125

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/01/23/ek-dual-d5-top/2/
There's this review of the older gen dual d5 top but how does the revo version ( gen4? ) perform vs this one?


----------



## DarthBaggins

wish I could still order that top, it would clean up how my two D5's are setup in my 303


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *czin125*
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/01/23/ek-dual-d5-top/2/
> There's this review of the older gen dual d5 top but how does the revo version ( gen4? ) perform vs this one?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> wish I could still order that top, it would clean up how my two D5's are setup in my 303


I already ordered that top, the parcel is in transit, sadly I don't think it's going to arrive any sooner than Monday afternoon. But I will tell you how it behaves after I finish the build, which will take a while (maybe another week or so).


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> You guys with an FTW3 who want to put it on water may find the following interesting. Just received an update regarding the ETA for EK's block for it from EK support:
> 
> _Thank you for reaching out to us.
> 
> We apologize about the multiple delays on this waterblock and we thank you again for your continued patience.
> 
> We are now anticipating the EVGA 1080 TI FTW3 waterblock to be released in early July. If you wish, you can subscribe to our newsletter and we will send you an e-mail when we have the official announcement for it that will provide preorder information and dates when it will begin shipping out._
> 
> If EVGA comes up with a Hydro Copper version before then, I may go with that; or sell the FTW3 and simply use the 1080 EK X cards I already have on hand and wait for Volta.


Just an update for those of you who are still thinking about getting a WB for the FTW3:


----------



## ttnuagmada

No backplates for the 1080ti MSI Armor/Gaming blocks? What am i supposed to put on the back of my Armor OC? Come on EK, you disappoint me. I've been holding out for these for a couple of months. Guess i'll have to go a different direction.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Just an update for those of you who are still thinking about getting a WB for the FTW3:


God I'm glad I'm done waiting for the Aorus block to be released!


----------



## DarthBaggins

I was sad to see no SC2 block was going to be made, but that just tells me not to buy an SC2


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I was sad to see no SC2 block was going to be made, but that just tells me not to buy an SC2


^+1 Though I did buy an FTW3.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I do love my 1080 SC as it's been a champ under the EK block I have for it. But Im drawn to the 1080 Ti SC (which unlike the SC2 has a block) now lol


----------



## czin125

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I already ordered that top, the parcel is in transit, sadly I don't think it's going to arrive any sooner than Monday afternoon. But I will tell you how it behaves after I finish the build, which will take a while (maybe another week or so).


You have both gen3 and gen4 dual tops from EK to compare?


----------



## war4peace

No, I had none prior to that. Just one DDC pump.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *czin125*
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/01/23/ek-dual-d5-top/2/
> There's this review of the older gen dual d5 top but how does the revo version ( gen4? ) perform vs this one?


I've yet to see any reviews comparing the Revo *Dual* D5 top to the previous gen., however, fast_fate did compare the Revo single D5 pump top to the older EK CSQ single D5 top:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/12/23/ek-xtop-revo-d5-pump-top-review/3/

As shown in this chart from that review:


He concluded in the review:
Quote:
*"So the Revo top performs well, very well in fact with a great performance increase over the stock D5 top, it just couldn't outperform the previous generations of D5 tops from EK."*


----------



## iamjanco

Does anyone know why EK moved from the CSQ to the Revo? Though I'm aware of what they said when they introduced it, I'm wondering if there were issues with the CSQ. Was it looks, vibration, something else?


----------



## smithsrt8

Possible problem with my loop?

EK Xres 140 pump D5
HW Labs GTR 240 Rad
XE360 Rad
Both Radiators are in push/pull with Phanteks 120MP @ 1700rpm
Bitspower flow meter
Aquaeros 6 xt
EK Evo Elite CPU Block
EK GPU Block (Aorus)

Temps seem fine...Ambient in my room is about 28c right now (it was 100f today) and water temp after the CPU/GPU blocks is about 31c

My flow seems really low with the Aquaeros reading the Bitspower flow meter at only .6gpm (140lph)

my cpu temps absolutely suck...idle temps are about 38c and any type of stress tests (XTU/Prime) that take it to 100% the temps are in the 70's sometimes even touching 80

my GPU temps seem ok with running Heaven for about 30 minutes the temps only get to about 54-55

Before I tear apart the CPU block to you guys have any ideas?

My Flow seems low with a D5 pump....any ideas?

Edit to add pictures


----------



## czin125

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> *"So the Revo top performs well, very well in fact with a great performance increase over the stock D5 top, it just couldn't outperform the previous generations of D5 tops from EK."*


Looks like anything past 2.5 GPM is where the new one beats the old one.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Does anyone know why EK moved from the CSQ to the Revo? Though I'm aware of what they said when they introduced it, I'm wondering if there were issues with the CSQ. Was it looks, vibration, something else?


Crop circles.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Crop circles.


Lol. Tin foil should have helped with that


----------



## looniam

seriously, it does have crop circles:


----------



## iamjanco

Ah, okay, now I get it, aesthetics. Typical. Tin foil should have definitely helped with that.


----------



## looniam

well played sir.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Personally I prefer my non csq top, and refuse to buy a BitsPower dual top. Also don't really like the look of the Revo dual but im sure with a pump dress kit from Singularity it would look better


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithsrt8*
> 
> Possible problem with my loop?
> 
> EK Xres 140 pump D5
> HW Labs GTR 240 Rad
> XE360 Rad
> Both Radiators are in push/pull with Phanteks 120MP @ 1700rpm
> Bitspower flow meter
> Aquaeros 6 xt
> EK Evo Elite CPU Block
> EK GPU Block (Aorus)
> 
> Temps seem fine...Ambient in my room is about 28c right now (it was 100f today) and water temp after the CPU/GPU blocks is about 31c
> 
> My flow seems really low with the Aquaeros reading the Bitspower flow meter at only .6gpm (140lph)
> 
> my cpu temps absolutely suck...idle temps are about 38c and any type of stress tests (XTU/Prime) that take it to 100% the temps are in the 70's sometimes even touching 80
> 
> my GPU temps seem ok with running Heaven for about 30 minutes the temps only get to about 54-55
> 
> Before I tear apart the CPU block to you guys have any ideas?
> 
> My Flow seems low with a D5 pump....any ideas?
> 
> Edit to add pictures


Hi,

i don't know your CPU, but if it is an overclocked kaby- or skylake (or even older) that is quite normal. Intel uses cheap TIM between the DIE and the IHS. So unless you delid your CPU and replace the junk underneath it with something decent (Gelid Extreme, Kryonaut or even CLU/TGC), your temps will not get much better, even with a top notch watercooling loop. My i7 6700K 4.5GHz idles at ~30°C (ambient arround 20°C atm), but quickly jumps to 75°C+ under Prime95 torture test.

So, i guess everything is absolutely correct with your loop.

Sorry, i was too quick on that. Your GPU temps do seem well to high. Seeing as you don't have a monoblock, but "only" cool your CPU & GPU, and plusthe fact that your radiators are both in push&pull configuration, your cooling power should exceed mine, yet your GPU is ~20°C hotter than mine. OK, your ambient ist about 8°C higher than mine, still your GPU is running to hot. MY GPU, heavily OC'ed and with 1.093v doesn't go beyond 40°C on full power fans and not above 45°C on semi-silent mode ... I have no flowmeter, so i dont know how much lph my loop has, but mayybe something is limiting your flow?


----------



## smithsrt8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> i don't know your CPU, but if it is an overclocked kaby- or skylake (or even older) that is quite normal. Intel uses cheap TIM between the DIE and the IHS. So unless you delid your CPU and replace the junk underneath it with something decent (Gelid Extreme, Kryonaut or even CLU/TGC), your temps will not get much better, even with a top notch watercooling loop. My i7 6700K 4.5GHz idles at ~30°C (ambient arround 20°C atm), but quickly jumps to 75°C+ under Prime95 torture test.
> 
> So, i guess everything is absolutely correct with your loop.
> 
> Sorry, i was too quick on that. Your GPU temps do seem well to high. Seeing as you don't have a monoblock, but "only" cool your CPU & GPU, and plusthe fact that your radiators are both in push&pull configuration, your cooling power should exceed mine, yet your GPU is ~20°C hotter than mine. OK, your ambient ist about 8°C higher than mine, still your GPU is running to hot. MY GPU, heavily OC'ed and with 1.093v doesn't go beyond 40°C on full power fans and not above 45°C on semi-silent mode ... I have no flowmeter, so i dont know how much lph my loop has, but mayybe something is limiting your flow?


I am a 7700k @ 1.345v @ 5ghz
I delidded with CLU and glued the IHS back on...I was previously cooling with a AIO (Celsius S36) and the temps "seemed" better...I only say that because yesterday and today it is been over 100f outside and even with my AC cranked it is about 80f in my computer room (26c) so that is about 6c higher than it usually is...
I took it apart again last night...I double checked the CPU Block and made sure the internals were installed correctly...I am not sure if I have the settings correct to truly see what my flow is (Aquaeros is set to standard calibration)

my GPU seems inline with what other people get (with higher ambient temps) but my CPU is running way hot and I cant figure out why...I am wondering if I made a mistake and didnt use the EK-Tim and instead used Gelid Extreme on the CPU (I used Grizzly on the GPU)


----------



## war4peace

Delidding is tricky.
First you should take a look at a per-core temperature. If some cores run way hotter then others, you need to delid again and repaste. If all cores run the same high temperatures, try going back to stock frequencies and gradually up them, see where the temp spike kicks in.
Out of the last 3 7700Ks that I delidded, one failed at IHS seating, 2 cores were 15 degrees Celsius hotter than the other two. Had to redo the whole thing.


----------



## smithsrt8

They all seem within range of each other....they are about 10 degrees of each other...I am wondering if this might be the case...but I get weird random spikes every once in a while...like everything can just be sitting at idle and the temps will jump to 55-60c and then drop right back down...I am wondering if maybe this could be because the delid is not 100%...it seemed ok before when I was using my AIO's though...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Also don't use Prime 95 to test OC temps, try Aida 64 instead.

**Edit** looks like you need to redo your Delid by look at the extreme differences in per core temps.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Also don't use Prime 95 to test OC temps, try Aida 64 instead.
> [...]


Why is that, whats wrong with Prime95 and better with AIDA64?


----------



## DarthBaggins

On the newer gen CPU's Prime's synthetics can burn up processors (this has been since the 1150 socket etc), also it puts an unrealistic load on the CPU. AIDA64 is designed with newer gen CPU's in mind. I've always seen and been told to not use the Prime95 for burn-in or OC testing


----------



## smithsrt8

here is a screenshot from Aida...sometimes the differences between cores can be upwards of 20-25 degrees...this one happens to only be 17...but they can vary quite a bit...


----------



## war4peace

It's pretty clear from the data that the delid has failed. This could happen for a number of reasons, but the outcome is the same: you have to repaste.
Now, if you are going to do that, here's a piece of personal advice (based on my experience, YMMV of course): don't use Coollaboratory thermal pastes between the die and IHS. I've seen corroded IHS because of that. Note that it doesn't happen immediately, but after a year or two it's visible.
I recommend Gelid GC Extreme, I only use that on all systems I put together. My main rig also has GC-Extreme on CPU and GPU. No delid there because I have a Broadwell-E CPU (soldered), but between the IHS and the waterblock. On GPU it's between die and waterblock, of course.


----------



## smithsrt8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> It's pretty clear from the data that the delid has failed. This could happen for a number of reasons, but the outcome is the same: you have to repaste.
> Now, if you are going to do that, here's a piece of personal advice (based on my experience, YMMV of course): don't use Coollaboratory thermal pastes between the die and IHS. I've seen corroded IHS because of that. Note that it doesn't happen immediately, but after a year or two it's visible.
> I recommend Gelid GC Extreme, I only use that on all systems I put together. My main rig also has GC-Extreme on CPU and GPU. No delid there because I have a Broadwell-E CPU (soldered), but between the IHS and the waterblock. On GPU it's between die and waterblock, of course.


Thank you...I was worried about that...I spread it just like the website said (rockitcool) and "painted it on"....I am wondering if putting too much pressure with the water block could have also contributed to this as well...I am rather disappointed that it only lasted a couple weeks...literally about 4...It almost makes me want to look at Silicon Lottery...at least they backup their stuff...


----------



## war4peace

Yes, applying uneven pressure on the WB might lead to paste moving around or some cores being unevenly covered.
As for applying the paste, I stopped worrying about is maybe a decade ago. Nowadays I just drop some on the middle of the IHS (or die for delidded CPUs) and press the IHS/heatsink over, making sure I tighten up the screws a little bit each.
If you tighten screws on one side all the way, and then the other side all the way, you will end up with uneven pressure and that is likely to expose some cores.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> On the newer gen CPU's Prime's synthetics can burn up processors (this has been since the 1150 socket etc), also it puts an unrealistic load on the CPU. AIDA64 is designed with newer gen CPU's in mind. I've always seen and been told to not use the Prime95 for burn-in or OC testing


please stop saying this

ebkac does not equal prime killing cpus.

either way, 100% false. Prime, even the new versions never hurt any of my cpus, amd or intel, fx, sandy, haswell, and ryzen. and i have 4 different haswell.... and all are prime stable
first i will state " stability is subjective" in truth it is not, you are either stable or your not. but that said what " stability " you want to have is- do you want to be stable, or just stable enough to barely notice.

the best quote i have ever seen on stability is this- far more eloquently stated then i ever would
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blakmumba;13120663*
> I seriously question the need for all this 24hr testing going on your brand new CPU, I see numerous cases here of guys bragging about their 24hr stress testing, or saying someones overclock is not stable because they haven't benched for 24 hrs.
> 
> 
> 
> How much experience have you had with overclocking? This attitude is generally reserved for amateur overclockers who have never had corrupted data.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A stress test is running all of your CPU cores flat out for however long you run the test, unless of course a core drops out because your overclock is unstable, I see the need for short term testing say an hour or maybe 2, because it won't take that long for an unstable overclock to show itself, but 24hrs in my opinion is not necessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think you are confused. The error is not found because the CPU is at 100%. A major error, or more likely, many tiny irrecoverable errors, happen at any % of CPU usage. The programs are designed to find inconsistencies as fast as possible, utilizing all resources available to determine the stability. Its not lets see how hard we can squeeze your CPU till it breaks. Is it stressful? Sure, is the stress that causes error? No, that would be instability or heat. Another good way to test your cooling solution too I might add.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There is not a thing on this planet designed to last forever, your precious CPU included when companies like Intel and AMD, guarantee their CPUs for 3 yr warranty time period, they're confident their CPUs will actually go past that time period, however that calculation is based on 3 yrs and beyond of normal use.
> 
> They know their CPUs are capable of lasting under normal spec'd use longer than the 3 yrs or they would not warranty them that long.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure why this is even here. This has nothing to do with stability testing, unless you are assuming that all CPUs that are brand new should not be tested @ stock settings? Which a CPU should be tested to ensure its not defective. Rare, but it can happen.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Now the cold hard fact is that overclocking your CPU will shorten its lifespan, but we accept that for the additional speed we gain, most of us will replace that cpu with an upgrade before is life expectancy arrives anyway, so taking it out of specifications is acceptable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Has nothing to do with stability testing. Its about error prevention.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> However that's with normal day to day use, surfing the web, audio and video editing and converting, gaming, office documentation Etc, and though serious bench stress testing is necessary to achieve a stable overclock, what damage does stress testing over a 24 hr time period and beyond, actually do to shorten the lifespan of your new CPU.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why would you even overclock then?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For example if you stress test your new quad core CPU for 24hrs, and all 4 cores are running at 100% for 24 hrs, how much normal daily processing is lost, because no daily application uses all 4 cores at 100% for 24hrs, so at least think about that when you overclock your CPU, and use at least some kind of wisdom in your stress testing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Again its not the stress that creates the error, its stress that finds the error. Errors can occur with as little as 1% core usage. The alternative is to use your computer until one day, your boot sector is corrupted, and Windows 7 repair, can't fix the files as the damage has occurred widespread through your file-system. At this point you are even lucky to recover data off the hard drive. Assuming you are still not using an unstable overclock, recovering data, will most likely keep it corrupt/re-corrupt it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Because if you don't think you're adding to shortening the life of your CPU, you're wrong!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Stress testing your CPU, if its adequately cooled, is not shortening your hardwares life, its the extra voltage/clock cycles from the overclock if anything. It sounds like you have a ton still to learn / grasp and thats okay. Overclocking has many useful applications, such as a technical server upgrade, gaming, scientific calculations, protein folding, etc. Many of those demand stability for personal and professional reasons. Folding requires 100% accurate data, or its wasteful time for both the user and server, which anyday can provide a cure to cancer (hopefully.) A non tested overclock in that field is extremely frowned upon by many people who dedicate entire machines to just folding.
> 
> I am not saying you have to stress test your CPU, or it will die and kill everything in your computer, but you are not going to convince anyone who knows what they are doing that its a waste of time.
> 
> I don't get why people are ever against having a fully stable system? It takes about a day if you actually have good settings. Maybe apathy or general laziness, but still, it will create so many headaches in the long run trying to figure out why the computer just doesn't want to work today.
Click to expand...


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> On the newer gen CPU's Prime's synthetics can burn up processors (this has been since the 1150 socket etc), also it puts an unrealistic load on the CPU. AIDA64 is designed with newer gen CPU's in mind. I've always seen and been told to not use the Prime95 for burn-in or OC testing


No.
Any test can make a CPU error out or break it in extreme cases, but that's user error, not hardware error.
I use Intel Burn Test to verify cooling and generated heat. Never had I any CPU break since late 90s-early 2000s when AMD were making Athlon and Duron CPUs which didn't have an IHS.
Whoever told you "don't use this because it breaks CPUs" are amateurs. Worse, they're amateurs spreading misinformation.


----------



## slatanic

Olright... made some temp tests.

My GPU (GTX 1080 FE) tops out at 52C in Valley Benchmark.

Ambient temparature is 26C.
2x 240mm Radiator / Fans at 700-ish Rpm

Edit: Card runs at 2100Mhz/5500Mhz

Opinions?


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slatanic*
> 
> Olright... made some temp tests.
> 
> My GPU (GTX 1080 FE) tops out at 52C in Valley Benchmark.
> 
> Ambient temparature is 26C.
> 2x 240mm Radiator / Fans at 700-ish Rpm
> 
> Edit: Card runs at 2100Mhz/5500Mhz
> 
> Opinions?


Can only give you a comparison but my FE on EK FC TXP block hasn't gone above 45 with card at 2076/6003. 1x360mm rad; fans at 1000rpm.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slatanic*
> 
> Olright... made some temp tests.
> 
> My GPU (GTX 1080 FE) tops out at 52C in Valley Benchmark.
> 
> Ambient temparature is 26C.
> 2x 240mm Radiator / Fans at 700-ish Rpm
> 
> Edit: Card runs at 2100Mhz/5500Mhz
> 
> Opinions?


All's good, man, nothing to worry about.


----------



## b0oMeR

My first loop is finally complete!
Just leak testing and getting rid of all the air!


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0oMeR*
> 
> My first loop is finally complete!
> Just leak testing and getting rid of all the air!


Nice but what's the logic behind using two different-sized tubes? Also, where's your GPU?









Excellent case choice! I also recently finished a custom loop using the P5. The EK-FC block with black back-plate looks awesome in this setup


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing Full-Cover water blocks for the EVGA® GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti FTW3


----------



## b0oMeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Nice but what's the logic behind using two different-sized tubes? Also, where's your GPU?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent case choice! I also recently finished a custom loop using the P5. The EK-FC block with black back-plate looks awesome in this setup




Don't have the GPU block yet so I didn't install it while leak testing. My final build now ?

I used two different size tubinf because I wanted thicker tubes going into rads and thinner tubes going into cpu block and eventually GPU block as well. Imo it looks cleaner ?

Love your build! Very clean and sharp look. The hard tubing really makes nicer builds. I grabbed 12mm arcylic tubing just waiting on fittings.


----------



## Jyve

Looks are absolutely subjective and if you dig it then fine, but, man, that just doesn't look right, IMO. Stick to 1 tube size. Just saying


----------



## Mega Man

Yea well to him your wrong, accept it. And move on.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Looks are absolutely subjective and if you dig it then fine, but, man, that just doesn't look right, IMO. Stick to 1 tube size. Just saying


The different tubing size doesn't seem that bad to me... I think the impact of the size differences is amplified by that reeeaaallly long tube run from the CPU block to the pump. It looks kind of flimsy when a shorter (but still long) run (pump to rad) is using a thicker tube.

I think (just a guess) that the thinner and thicker tubing would look better if it was hard tubing. Then, instead of an appearance of "thin flimsy" it might give an appearance of "thin and streamlined." Of course, with anything visual, it's all what the builder likes. There is no difference in functionality.

I am curious, though, if the use of different color fittings was intentional or just what happened to be on hand.


----------



## b0oMeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> The different tubing size doesn't seem that bad to me... I think the impact of the size differences is amplified by that reeeaaallly long tube run from the CPU block to the pump. It looks kind of flimsy when a shorter (but still long) run (pump to rad) is using a thicker tube.
> 
> I think (just a guess) that the thinner and thicker tubing would look better if it was hard tubing. Then, instead of an appearance of "thin flimsy" it might give an appearance of "thin and streamlined." Of course, with anything visual, it's all what the builder likes. There is no difference in functionality.
> 
> I am curious, though, if the use of different color fittings was intentional or just what happened to be on hand.


I wanted to use the nickle plated fittings that are larger for the rads and my colored EK fittings for the blocks. I bought red fittings for CPU block and blue ones for GPU block.

I even painted my motherboard back plate shroud, the chipset heatsink and the pump stand








Was aiming for an alien color/glow with the RGBs and a loose tubing style.


----------



## Ceadderman

The thinner tubing doesn't help Temps at all. In fact the temperature will stabilize over the course of use so I would replace whichever tubing runs to make it more aesthetically pleasing to your eye.









~Ceadder


----------



## war4peace

If I may, I'd also comment on the choice of in/out system between the radiators. And although it doesn't seem to matter too much, the better flow direction would be from pump to CPU/GPU, then radiators, then reservoir, then pump. Dumping hot water into the pump runs a risk of overheating it.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> If I may, I'd also comment on the choice of in/out system between the radiators. And although it doesn't seem to matter too much, the better flow direction would be from pump to CPU/GPU, then radiators, then reservoir, then pump. Dumping hot water into the pump runs a risk of overheating it.


It had been said numerous times that if the flow is ok (over 0.6 gpm) then the water temp difference anywhere in the loop is extremely small, usually under 1C. How would that contribute to a pump overheating?


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> If I may, I'd also comment on the choice of in/out system between the radiators. And although it doesn't seem to matter too much, the better flow direction would be from pump to CPU/GPU, then radiators, then reservoir, then pump. Dumping hot water into the pump runs a risk of overheating it.


This isn't a thing. We've been over this before.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> If I may, I'd also comment on the choice of in/out system between the radiators. And although it doesn't seem to matter too much, the better flow direction would be from pump to CPU/GPU, then radiators, then reservoir, then pump. Dumping hot water into the pump runs a risk of overheating it.


No.
People please stop spreading those myths. A PC watercooling loop will have almost the same temperatur anywhere in the loop, the max. difference you'll ever notice are 2-3°C at best with very low flowrates, maybe before and after a big radiator or before and after an SLI GPU combo. If you don't have any extreme low flow parts or a very weak pump (the D5 is rather good), the flow of the water through the loop will even out the temps and find its balance, a few degrees above ambient usualy. A PC watercooling loop is not like a car where almost boiling hot water enters the radiator and cool water comes out of it.

The only thing important: Always have the reservoir feed the pump. That makes sure that A: bubbles are kept in the reservoir and not send through the pump (an the loop) again and B: the pump will always get flooded with water and never runs dry. All the other components can be added in any order that appeals best to your tubing.


----------



## looniam

hold it!

1) have the rad BEFORE the pump so it doesn't overheat

2) have the rad AFTER the pump so the water heated from the pump gets cooled before the first/next block.

i need more rads . . . .


----------



## emsj86

Do people believe what they write ? The pump doesn't overheat. Where are people getting this from


----------



## Juris

Just picked up a brand new EK nickel plexi GPU block for my 295x2 and wondered what your guys opinions are of the EK-TIM Ectotherm included in the box vs something like MX4 (which I already have a tube of) or other paste. Is the Grizzly Kryonaut still recommended as some seem to like it. I spotted discussion on this thread from a couple of years ago but wondered if a new champ has arrived on the scene or if over time a consensus had emerged. Also wondering if the cross pattern suggested by EK is the best method for application of if another method is superior (begin the pea wars).

As the 295x2 is a winter heater masquerading as a GPU I really want to get temps down as much as possible especially as it might end up mining ETH as well as the usual heavy gaming duties. Cheers.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> hold it!
> 
> 1) have the rad BEFORE the pump so it doesn't overheat
> 
> 2) have the rad AFTER the pump so the water heated from the pump gets cooled before the first/next block.
> 
> i need more rads . . . .


Res-Pump - remaining order doesn't matter


----------



## garyd9

Before being concerned about "overheating the pump", take a look at the operating temperature specs of the pump and the max water temp in your loop.

A D5 has a max temp of 60C.

A DDC has a max temp of 60C.

Even EK's "less expensive" Chinese made SPC pump has a max temp of 50C

If your water temps are exceeding 50C, you have problems with cooling and not loop order.


----------



## smithsrt8

Getting the water/coolant that hot (50/60c) would seem impossible to me...I think the warmest I have seen my system at running prime and running heaven for 6 hours straight was 36c....


----------



## mikailmohammed

Any word on a x299 block?? I am not sure if i am late or not.


----------



## DarthBaggins

More interested in how the block for X399 will look, that's a huge CPU


----------



## KaffieneKing

Is it actually bigger than the supremacy block itself?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Think it's as big if not a mm larger


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> More interested in how the block for X399 will look, that's a huge CPU


It'll probably end up looking like a monoblock, but with milled fins through the entire thing.

That's a really large CPU...


----------



## DisposableHero7

Yupp,

Threadripper is a beast.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> hold it!
> 
> 1) have the rad BEFORE the pump so it doesn't overheat
> 
> 2) have the rad AFTER the pump so the water heated from the pump gets cooled before the first/next block.
> 
> i need more rads . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Res-Pump - remaining order doesn't matter
Click to expand...

ik, i was trying to be silly.

but for no reason, i like the idea for pump/rad/block but not if it gets in the way of rad placement/running lines.

then it's res/pump to death.


----------



## velocityx

Hey guys, just wanted to share my brand new all EK stuff I mentioned getting in here http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/19720#post_26123304

Decided to go with the old school tubing school. In the future, maybe some nickel plated copper tubes,


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> Hey guys, just wanted to share my brand new all EK stuff I mentioned getting in here http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/19720#post_26123304
> 
> Decided to go with the old school tubing school. In the future, maybe some nickel plated copper tubes,


Damn, that looks clean and slick


----------



## velocityx

Thanks! it was my first time

Some stuff I need to correct ( rad-cpu tube too long, res-front rad tube too long etc)

Still need to get some nice cable sleeve, and some panels for my Evolv. Not to mention some modding to the panels needed.

also thanks to EK for working extra in getting me that nickel plated backplate when it wasn't in stock in the shop. I ordered black one and right away asked if they were able to somehow get me a nickel plated one and they did, had to wait a few days extra but thanks a lot!


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> Hey guys, just wanted to share my brand new all EK stuff I mentioned getting in here http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/19720#post_26123304
> 
> Decided to go with the old school tubing school. In the future, maybe some nickel plated copper tubes,


It looks nice! Where are the hose clamps? (You mentioned old school tubing... )


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> It looks nice! Where are the hose clamps? (You mentioned old school tubing... )


He said oldshool, not dirt cheap


----------



## DarthBaggins

Don't need clamps when using compression fittings


----------



## velocityx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> He said oldshool, not dirt cheap


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> He said oldshool, not dirt cheap


umm.. what do you think people used for water cooling before it was it's own industry? Silicon hoses, usually sourced from medical supply houses, brass barbs, and hose clamps.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Hence the use of flexible tubing (old school) personally I plan on sticking with EK's ZMT for the foreseeable future


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithsrt8*
> 
> Getting the water/coolant that hot (50/60c) would seem impossible to me...I think the warmest I have seen my system at running prime and running heaven for 6 hours straight was 36c....


@Ithanul managed something like 48-52C water temp during one Foldathon (or was it forum folding warfare) with what I believe was three GTX 980 Ti's during hot weather, if I remember correctly.

It's doable, just need a really hot and heavy load in combination with rather warm weather.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I think 35-40c have been my highest coolant temps with a 5930k at 4.7Ghz and my 970 at 1520/3500. I need to add in a sensor for my current loop and add in my PA3 Ultra USB so I can monitor in Aquasuite


----------



## smithsrt8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> @Ithanul managed something like 48-52C water temp during one Foldathon (or was it forum folding warfare) with what I believe was three GTX 980 Ti's during hot weather, if I remember correctly.
> 
> It's doable, just need a *really hot and heavy load* in combination with rather warm weather.




That's insane temps for water running through rads (I know they are not terribly efficient but has to be 20c above ambient on the hottest of hot days (indoors anyways, if his computer is outside in death valley I could understand!)


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithsrt8*
> 
> That's insane temps for water running through rads (I know they are not terribly efficient but has to be 20c above ambient on the hottest of hot days (indoors anyways, if his computer is outside in death valley I could understand!)


[email protected]'s Core 21 work units put an INSANE amount of load on cards, so it isn't all that hard to imagine water temps getting up there if you've got a rather hefty overclock, especially if ambient temperatures are rather toasty already. Core 21's are a rather heavy load that runs cores hot... Really, really hot.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Do people believe what they write ? The pump doesn't overheat. Where are people getting this from


Ehhhhhhhh...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Before being concerned about "overheating the pump", take a look at the operating temperature specs of the pump and the max water temp in your loop.
> 
> A D5 has a max temp of 60C.
> 
> A DDC has a max temp of 60C.
> 
> Even EK's "less expensive" Chinese made SPC pump has a max temp of 50C
> 
> If your water temps are exceeding 50C, you have problems with cooling and not loop order.


While it is true that pumps are pretty durable, and the D5 is cooled via the flow of coolant through the impeller...

The DDC style of pumps get zero benefit from coolant flow. They require mounting in a well vented area of the setup, or an aftermarket heatsink. You indeed can burn out a DDC pump if you don't have it mounted in a well vented location in the loop or a fan blowing over it or an aftermarket heatsink on it.

I am not certain to which post these replies are directed toward, but I simply couldn't let half knowledge pass as 100% accurate. No offense guys but in both replies there is lack of accuracy that I simply had to address.

Yes you are indeed correct on both counts in the event of a D5.

Inaccurate if we're talking DDC.










~Ceadder


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I am not certain to which post these replies are directed toward, but I simply couldn't let half knowledge pass as 100% accurate. No offense guys but in both replies there is lack of accuracy that I simply had to address.
> 
> Yes you are indeed correct on both counts in the event of a D5.
> 
> Inaccurate if we're talking DDC.


You missed the context of the replies. This was in reply to a person suggesting that the water should be run through a radiator BEFORE going through a pump in order to lessen the chance of burning out the pump. Therefore, the water temp is the only relevant aspect to the context.

In a general overall sense, you are correct that the D5 is water cooled and the DDC is air cooled. However, the DDC still has the same 60C max water temp.

Edit: I see I didn't quote when I replied, so it's understandable that you missed the context.


----------



## LupineDream

Sure, why not?



EK-FB ASUS Z170S Monoblock - Nickel


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ehhhhhhhh...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While it is true that pumps are pretty durable, and the D5 is cooled via the flow of coolant through the impeller...
> 
> The DDC style of pumps get zero benefit from coolant flow. They require mounting in a well vented area of the setup, or an aftermarket heatsink. You indeed can burn out a DDC pump if you don't have it mounted in a well vented location in the loop or a fan blowing over it or an aftermarket heatsink on it.
> 
> I am not certain to which post these replies are directed toward, but I simply couldn't let half knowledge pass as 100% accurate. No offense guys but in both replies there is lack of accuracy that I simply had to address.
> 
> Yes you are indeed correct on both counts in the event of a D5.
> 
> Inaccurate if we're talking DDC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was the culprit of the original post, and indeed I have a DDC pump momentarily, it has a heatsink though and the radiator fans blow onto it and its heatsink.
Nobody is born knowledgeable, and I made a newbie mistake, after all I am only watercooling PCs since February this year. Sometimes I have the wrong knowledge. It happens.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Nobody is born knowledgeable, and I made a newbie mistake, after all I am only watercooling PCs since February this year. Sometimes I have the wrong knowledge. It happens.


No one is criticizing you. We're just attacking each other.







.

You post, everyone else argues, and you learn. Seems like everyone wins.


----------



## buellersdayoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Nobody is born knowledgeable, and I made a newbie mistake, after all I am only watercooling PCs since February this year. Sometimes I have the wrong knowledge. It happens.
> 
> 
> 
> No one is criticizing you. We're just attacking each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> You post, everyone else argues, and you learn. Seems like everyone wins.
Click to expand...

^War for peace^


----------



## LupineDream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buellersdayoff*
> 
> ^War for peace^












Dang he just nut-shelled life.
+REP


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> If I may, I'd also comment on the choice of in/out system between the radiators. And although it doesn't seem to matter too much, the better flow direction would be from pump to CPU/GPU, then radiators, then reservoir, then pump. Dumping hot water into the pump runs a risk of overheating it.


Is that a joke or just ignorance? People need to stop posting what they suppose as if it were actual fact


----------



## war4peace

I didn't know lack of knowledge was such a crime here...


----------



## zeroibis

I was looking at the ports of my EK-RAD-CE-280 and noticed they were not nice like my 360 EK rad. When I shake the radiator I can hear the sound of metal moving around inside.

Is this normal, or do I need to return it? I would assume that the metal should flush out but what if it gets clogged up in the channels in the rad?

Here are some pics not sure if you can see much in them though:






You should be able to see that the ports to not have the clean hexagon shape on the inside like normal. Instead some of the slides are all chipped and cut up from the bit or something. I assume the sound I get when I shake the rad is from these bits that broke off and are somewhere inside the rad.

I ordered this rad from Performance-PCS back at the end of May, if I do need a new one should I contact them or EK for RMA?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I didn't know lack of knowledge was such a crime here...


Lack of knowledge is fine. Everybody has been there and no body knows it all. My post referenced the posting of incorrect information passed off as facts. No one will rip you re head off for asking a question. But and in not saying you did this but posting day this is this or this is that when the person has no idea. The Internet is full of it and than people not knowing better run with that


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I didn't know lack of knowledge was such a crime here...
> 
> 
> 
> Lack of knowledge is fine. Everybody has been there and no body knows it all. My post referenced the posting of incorrect information passed off as facts. No one will rip you re head off for asking a question. But and in not saying you did this but posting day this is this or this is that when the person has no idea. The Internet is full of it and than people not knowing better run with that
Click to expand...

Also known as pulling "facts" out of one's rear end, lol.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Also known as pulling "facts" out of one's rear end, lol.


A bit tangential, and I do realize we're talking about products that have been available for a while now which for the most part have had enough real-world testing, but...

But isn't that what a lot of folks here and other boards like this base (at least in part) their decisions on when rushing to purchase the latest and greatest offered by AMD, Intel, Nvidia, and most motherboard and other component vendors, then critique (or complain about) after the fact when their purchased products don't meet the expectations that were driven by way of advertising and/or binned sample testing (oh, yes, and word of mouth)?

Maybe we need a more effective approach to eliminating the rhetorical corn found in such facts, which might help minimize that value-added "texture."









Don't mind me, I'm in the middle of scrubbing ~6,000 lines of data across three like but similar product databases that are a total mess. Had to take a break


----------



## buellersdayoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I didn't know lack of knowledge was such a crime here...


Instead of tearing you a new one...the coolant in a loop is "virtually" the same temperature throughout, you won't burn your pump because of it's location in the loop. Though possibly by running it over the rated temperature...peace


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> I was looking at the ports of my EK-RAD-CE-280 and noticed they were not nice like my 360 EK rad. When I shake the radiator I can hear the sound of metal moving around inside.
> 
> Is this normal, or do I need to return it? I would assume that the metal should flush out but what if it gets clogged up in the channels in the rad?
> 
> Here are some pics not sure if you can see much in them though:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to see that the ports to not have the clean hexagon shape on the inside like normal. Instead some of the slides are all chipped and cut up from the bit or something. I assume the sound I get when I shake the rad is from these bits that broke off and are somewhere inside the rad.
> 
> I ordered this rad from Performance-PCS back at the end of May, if I do need a new one should I contact them or EK for RMA?


Could the metal moving sound comes from the core hitting the exterior shroud since it's 2 separate parts?


----------



## smithsrt8

Loop temps will only be 1-1.5 (depending on how many components/blocks you are cooling anywhere in the loop...I have one temp sensor after all of my blocks (my order is Res/pump - Rad - Rad - CPU Block - GPU Block) and my temp coming up usually is about 33c under decent load (gaming for a little bit and about 28c at idle)...if I get really crazy I will see 35-36c but I had 2 temp sensors in the loop (one after the Rad's) and the temp was always within 1-1.5 max...


----------



## zeroibis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Could the metal moving sound comes from the core hitting the exterior shroud since it's 2 separate parts?


No it is not that sound it is the sound of little bits of metal flying around inside the rad.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> No it is not that sound it is the sound of little bits of metal flying around inside the rad.


Then I would RMA it. Sorry about that.









EDIT : Did you try to do a clean flush in it? Maybe the moving piece will find it's way out.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Wish I could order the White Evo top for my Acetal/Copper EVO - don't want to order a whole new block just to harvest the top since I want the black mounting bracket that is on my current one.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Wish I could order the White Evo top for my Acetal/Copper EVO - don't want to order a whole new block just to harvest the top since I want the black mounting bracket that is on my current one.


Open a ticket on the EK website and ask them if they can sell you the top individually.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I didn't know lack of knowledge was such a crime here...


Lack of knowledge is quite OK. Most of us are here to learn. Posting as if you know something when you don't, is not OK, it only makes it more difficult for readers to separate the wheat from the chaff. Opinions are cool, misrepresentations of fact are irresponsible.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Open a ticket on the EK website and ask them if they can sell you the top individually.


Thanks I'll do that over this weekend


----------



## b0oMeR

Final build done with LEDs


----------



## b0oMeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> I was looking at the ports of my EK-RAD-CE-280 and noticed they were not nice like my 360 EK rad. When I shake the radiator I can hear the sound of metal moving around inside.
> 
> Is this normal, or do I need to return it? I would assume that the metal should flush out but what if it gets clogged up in the channels in the rad?
> 
> Here are some pics not sure if you can see much in them though:
> 
> You should be able to see that the ports to not have the clean hexagon shape on the inside like normal. Instead some of the slides are all chipped and cut up from the bit or something. I assume the sound I get when I shake the rad is from these bits that broke off and are somewhere inside the rad.
> 
> I ordered this rad from Performance-PCS back at the end of May, if I do need a new one should I contact them or EK for RMA?


You don't work with threading often do you. This is really normal that is why it is recommend to give your radiator a good flush of distilled water two or three times before using it. You will be surprised at what comes out on the first rinse.


----------



## DisposableHero7

You dont even need to use destilled water on the first flushes, thats just wasting.

Fill them 3/4 with boiled tapwater first (maybe add a mild detergent if you wish), close them and shake like mad for some minutes, turning, twisting, rolling, pitching and yawing alot. After that, see if you can attach a hose/tube to your tap and the radiator and just let regular tapwater run through it for some more minutes to flush out all debris, dirt and detergent. After that, give them one good flush with distilled water and you are golden.

If it turns out that your radiator has some REALY tough and resistant "stuff" in it, you might need to flush it with special cleaning agents and/or acid like Mayhems Blitz kit, but this ain't necessary in most cases. If you do use Mayhems Blitz, be sure to read the manual carefully and don't fool arround, it is acid ....


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Just as a quick addendum to what the previous poster said... Don't hook the rad directly to your house's water supply, as a lot of them have 40+ psi pushing the water, and those kinds of pressures have a bad habit of making watercooling parts develop permanent leaks.... Aka they have a decently strong chance that they will rupture if you hook a hose from the tap to the radiator.


----------



## Mega Man

in denver, not sure about other localities we have to provide 60-90 psi


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> in denver, not sure about other localities we have to provide 60-90 psi


Think that's partially due to elevation etc


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Lack of knowledge is quite OK. Most of us are here to learn. Posting as if you know something when you don't, is not OK, it only makes it more difficult for readers to separate the wheat from the chaff. Opinions are cool, misrepresentations of fact are irresponsible.


You might want to consider that I *thought* I knew something, which was proven wrong.
It was not my intention to misrepresent or anything.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Just as a quick addendum to what the previous poster said... Don't hook the rad directly to your house's water supply, as a lot of them have 40+ psi pushing the water, and those kinds of pressures have a bad habit of making watercooling parts develop permanent leaks.... Aka they have a decently strong chance that they will rupture if you hook a hose from the tap to the radiator.


Oh yeah, thats a valid point.
I didn't think about it though, because here we usualy only have 2-4 bar (30-60 psi) in houshold waterpipes.

Public waterpipes here run about 10-15bar (~150-220psi), to be ableto push the water up to higher terrain or larger buildings. Inside the flats/appartments, pressure is then usualy reduced to max. ~4bar (60 PSI) and then the taps themselves usually have a limiter that reduces pressure to ~.5bar (~7 psi)...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> You dont even need to use destilled water on the first flushes, thats just wasting.
> 
> Fill them 3/4 with boiled tapwater first (maybe add a mild detergent if you wish), close them and shake like mad for some minutes, turning, twisting, rolling, pitching and yawing alot. After that, see if you can attach a hose/tube to your tap and the radiator and just let regular tapwater run through it for some more minutes to flush out all debris, dirt and detergent. After that, give them one good flush with distilled water and you are golden.
> 
> If it turns out that your radiator has some REALY tough and resistant "stuff" in it, you might need to flush it with special cleaning agents and/or acid like Mayhems Blitz kit, but this ain't necessary in most cases. If you do use Mayhems Blitz, be sure to read the manual carefully and don't fool arround, it is acid ....


Tap water is no bueno for flushing Rads. Yeah it helps flush them, *BUT* you're removing impurities only to replace them with impurities. Here in the States our water treatment facilities add Fluoride before pushing it through the pipes. Then atop of that minerals are not filtered out small enough, so you get mineral deposits in a lot of locales. So unless you have a water softener and or filtration unit, you're only asking for trouble. Distilled is cheap enough that I would recommend it over tap everyday and twice on Sundays. ~$2 a gallon? Some people pay for their water too. I guarantee it's more expensive using tap in this regard. You say waste? I say worth it.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

I've always warmed up distilled with some vinegar to flush rads then straight distilled to do the final flushing


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Tap water is no bueno for flushing Rads. Yeah it helps flush them, *BUT* you're removing impurities only to replace them with impurities. Here in the States our water treatment facilities add Fluoride before pushing it through the pipes. Then atop of that minerals are not filtered out small enough, so you get mineral deposits in a lot of locales. So unless you have a water softener and or filtration unit, you're only asking for trouble. Distilled is cheap enough that I would recommend it over tap everyday and twice on Sundays. ~$2 a gallon? Some people pay for their water too. I guarantee it's more expensive using tap in this regard. You say waste? I say worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Uhm, no.

Unless your tapwater is some muddy, murky brew you shouldn't even consider drinking, you will be perfectly fine using it for the first treatment. OK, i don't know about regulations for drinking water in the US, but i can hardly believe it is too far away from here in europe. The amount of minerals (chalk especially) in tapwater will not hurt your equipment while flushing it for a few minutes at best. And when you flush it with a few liters or even gallons of distilled water afterwards, the distilled water will easily bind all the loose minerals left in your rads from the tapwater before.

And pricing ... dude we pay like .90€ for a m³ water ... thats a thousand liters for less than a Euro. I doubt you're charged alot more in the US....


----------



## DarthBaggins

we pay at most $1.00/Gal for distilled


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Tap water is no bueno for flushing Rads. Yeah it helps flush them, *BUT* you're removing impurities only to replace them with impurities. Here in the States our water treatment facilities add Fluoride before pushing it through the pipes. Then atop of that minerals are not filtered out small enough, so you get mineral deposits in a lot of locales. So unless you have a water softener and or filtration unit, you're only asking for trouble. Distilled is cheap enough that I would recommend it over tap everyday and twice on Sundays. ~$2 a gallon? Some people pay for their water too. I guarantee it's more expensive using tap in this regard. You say waste? I say worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uhm, no.
> 
> Unless your tapwater is some muddy, murky brew you shouldn't even consider drinking, you will be perfectly fine using it for the first treatment. OK, i don't know about regulations for drinking water in the US, but i can hardly believe it is too far away from here in europe. The amount of minerals (chalk especially) in tapwater will not hurt your equipment while flushing it for a few minutes at best. And when you flush it with a few liters or even gallons of distilled water afterwards, the distilled water will easily bind all the loose minerals left in your rads from the tapwater before.
> 
> And pricing ... dude we pay like .90€ for a m³ water ... thats a thousand liters for less than a Euro. I doubt you're charged alot more in the US....
Click to expand...

First off, you simply are passing along generalized info. Info that is bad to begin with.

In the plumbing fixture world, they use(or are phasing it out slowly... very slowly) Brass soldered with lead core solder. Flint Michigan was using Lead Pipes left over from the turn of the 20th century in their older housing. So there is more lead for ya right there. I'm sure that Flint is not the only city with this problem. Lead is a global issue. It's not geo specific to any one region. So your tap water trick is just simple math bs. You are exposing your loop to galvanic corrosion as you cannot possibly remove all the contaminants that you're pushing through the radiator to remove the flux and left over solder balls rattling around inside it.

So sorry, I will continue to waste and advise others to waste distilled.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

I buy a few gallons of distilled anytime I'm at the market if I plan on tearing down a loop or not lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I buy a few gallons of distilled anytime I'm at the market if I plan on tearing down a loop or not lol


Same. Even when I am not planning one. Battery maintenance requires it in my cars. No impurities makes it the obvious choice to top off the plates.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Also mixing your automotive concentrated coolants with distilled is more beneficial to your vehicle in the long run.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Tap water is no bueno for flushing Rads. Yeah it helps flush them, *BUT* you're removing impurities only to replace them with impurities. Here in the States our water treatment facilities add Fluoride before pushing it through the pipes. Then atop of that minerals are not filtered out small enough, so you get mineral deposits in a lot of locales. So unless you have a water softener and or filtration unit, you're only asking for trouble. Distilled is cheap enough that I would recommend it over tap everyday and twice on Sundays. ~$2 a gallon? Some people pay for their water too. I guarantee it's more expensive using tap in this regard. You say waste? I say worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uhm, no.
> 
> Unless your tapwater is some muddy, murky brew you shouldn't even consider drinking, you will be perfectly fine using it for the first treatment. OK, i don't know about regulations for drinking water in the US, but i can hardly believe it is too far away from here in europe. The amount of minerals (chalk especially) in tapwater will not hurt your equipment while flushing it for a few minutes at best. And when you flush it with a few liters or even gallons of distilled water afterwards, the distilled water will easily bind all the loose minerals left in your rads from the tapwater before.
> 
> And pricing ... dude we pay like .90€ for a m³ water ... thats a thousand liters for less than a Euro. I doubt you're charged alot more in the US....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> First off, you simply are passing along generalized info. Info that is bad to begin with.
> 
> In the plumbing fixture world, they use(or are phasing it out slowly... very slowly) Brass soldered with lead core solder. Flint Michigan was using Lead Pipes left over from the turn of the 20th century in their older housing. So there is more lead for ya right there. I'm sure that Flint is not the only city with this problem. Lead is a global issue. It's not geo specific to any one region. So your tap water trick is just simple math bs. You are exposing your loop to galvanic corrosion as you cannot possibly remove all the contaminants that you're pushing through the radiator to remove the flux and left over solder balls rattling around inside it.
> 
> So sorry, I will continue to waste and advise others to waste distilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I am usually agreeing with you but the amount of lead in the water is not going too cause anything. Main even explored using tap water.

The minerals will take time to separate, the biggest issue, esp in other countries (more specifically places where goofy have to boil your water before drinking, but the us water is actually one of the more clean water, On average) actually is micro organisms you expose them too.

Do you think the rads are washed with distilled at the factories?


----------



## war4peace

...since we are beating the flushing subject... I plan to change my case, extend my loop and replace my liquid (currently have Mayhems pastel Black, want Mayhems Pastel White).
I will flush with distilled water, however I am unclear of the actual method. Are you flushing the whole loop in-place? Or remove the pump, reservoir and hook them to each component, turn on the PSU and pour distilled in the reservoir, letting the water spit out in a bucket at the other end?


----------



## b0oMeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> ...since we are beating the flushing subject... I plan to change my case, extend my loop and replace my liquid (currently have Mayhems pastel Black, want Mayhems Pastel White).
> I will flush with distilled water, however I am unclear of the actual method. Are you flushing the whole loop in-place? Or remove the pump, reservoir and hook them to each component, turn on the PSU and pour distilled in the reservoir, letting the water spit out in a bucket at the other end?


You definitely could do that especially to get rid of dyes.
You don't need to take it apart you can use the pump to continually prime your reservoir and flush it out a drain port. I would really only take out each component like that if I was replacing parts of the loop to replace or clean.


----------



## war4peace

Thank you, I will do just that then.


----------



## MrHarris

Currently in the process of building two systems. One for me and one for my girlfriend.

Me:
Be Quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 Silver/Black
EK-ASUS Maximus IX Apex CPU Monoblock Nickel
EK-XTOP Dual Revo D5 Serial PWM w/ custom sleeve
EK-XRES X4 250
EK-CoolStream 420CE w/ 3 Corsair ML140 or Noctua NF-14A iPPC 3000RPM in Push Config
EK-CoolStream 360XE w/ 6 EK-FuriousVardar FF5-120ER in Push/Pull Config
EK-EVGA 1080GTX FTW GPU Full Cover Water Block Plexi/Nickel
EK-GTX FTW Back Plate Nickel
EK-FC Terminal Plexi
EK-10/13mm Black Nickel ACF Compression Fittings
EK-KyroFuel
PrimoChill Advanced LRT 3/8 - 1/2

Various 45/90/rotary/ball valve/extenders


----------



## Streetdragon

i have a 1080ti fe with the ek waterblock and backplate. now the core stays at 33° or so. nice nice. but the backplate gets really hot. is that normal? i dont have a temp sensor for the vrm or so but i dont think that this is normal...

its the area where the vrms are. i thought the heat gets absorbed from the waterblock

edit: not burning hot. i can touch it for longer time, but im not sure if it should be like that

edit2: IF this is normal, would it be usefull to tune the backplate with stuff like this? http://www.ebay.de/itm/Kuhlkorper-Aluminium-schwarz-35-x-35-x-10-mm-1-Stuck-/310703913230?hash=item485765790e:gl4AAOSwHJhXMtnE


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> i have a 1080ti fe with the ek waterblock and backplate. now the core stays at 33° or so. nice nice. but the backplate gets really hot. is that normal? i dont have a temp sensor for the vrm or so but i dont think that this is normal...
> 
> its the area where the vrms are. i thought the heat gets absorbed from the waterblock
> 
> edit: not burning hot. i can touch it for longer time, but im not sure if it should be like that
> 
> edit2: IF this is normal, would it be usefull to tune the backplate with stuff like this? http://www.ebay.de/itm/Kuhlkorper-Aluminium-schwarz-35-x-35-x-10-mm-1-Stuck-/310703913230?hash=item485765790e:gl4AAOSwHJhXMtnE


Nah you're fine. It feels hot but when I placed a thermocouple to mine, it only red 40C tops. Which means under the plate it is probably 60 degrees max at the PCB. This is well under the safe margins for the VRMs.
If it makes you feel better, get the Intel HSF, slap some thermal paste on it and place it in the VRM area.


----------



## Streetdragon

i think that would be overkill xD i just thought that the heat gets absorbed from the waterblock to 90% or more. so the backplate etc would be hand-warm max


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> i think that would be overkill xD i just thought that the heat gets absorbed from the waterblock to 90% or more. so the backplate etc would be hand-warm max


You clearly haven't seen my backplate mods



I even strapped a H80i to it once for the lolz. It was marginally more effective but impossible to mount so I scrapped the idea.


----------



## Streetdragon

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> You clearly haven't seen my backplate mods
> 
> 
> 
> I even strapped a H80i to it once for the lolz. It was marginally more effective but impossible to mount so I scrapped the idea.






thx. my card is vertical, but i think it would be enough if i stick some heatsinks on the plate and live with it.

Cool hardware is happy hardware


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> i have a 1080ti fe with the ek waterblock and backplate. now the core stays at 33° or so. nice nice. but the backplate gets really hot. is that normal? i dont have a temp sensor for the vrm or so but i dont think that this is normal...


I have a thermsistor actually inserted between the back of my 1070 and backplate, and I measure temps reaching 53C when really pushing with gaming. Before switching to the water block on the card, temps in the same area would hit 70C (the same as the GPU.)

This seems normal, but isn't widely mentioned as so few bother measuring the temp there after sticking on a water block.

Right now, fully idle, my ambient (air intake) temp is 25C, my water temp is 27C, my GPU temp is 28C and the backplate is 30C.


----------



## Streetdragon

ok thx for the infos. i though i applyed the pads wrong or so. in idle the backplate is cold, gpu at water temp and unter load 6° over water.

than i just stick the sinks on the plate and sleep in peace







Thx and rep


----------



## Mega Man

guys the backplate beside looking good passively cools the back of the die and the back of the vrms, it is doing what it needs to


----------



## Streetdragon

i was just scared, because it is warm. My first full cover block^^

the backside of the die: there were no pads for that area, so its only vrm i think


----------



## Mega Man

ah well, sucks to be nvidia

they do it for amd gpus !

but then again, talking about the top dog vs nvidia


Spoiler: gifs, not for slow connections but to tell story!


----------



## zeroibis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Then I would RMA it. Sorry about that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT : Did you try to do a clean flush in it? Maybe the moving piece will find it's way out.


Have not done the flush yet, will try and if I can hear anything in it after I will RMA. Just wanted to know if it was even worth trying to flush it or if that could just make it worse by getting the bits lodged into the channels of the rad. I will take another look at the rad as soon as I can.


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing a new RGB AM4 monoblock for GIGABYTE® X370 motherboards


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Then I would RMA it. Sorry about that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT : Did you try to do a clean flush in it? Maybe the moving piece will find it's way out.
> 
> 
> 
> Have not done the flush yet, will try and if I can hear anything in it after I will RMA. Just wanted to know if it was even worth trying to flush it or if that could just make it worse by getting the bits lodged into the channels of the rad. I will take another look at the rad as soon as I can.
Click to expand...

If you're gonna try flushing it, I would suggest alternating your fill route. Try it on one port and then switch to the other. If you can't get anywhere after a few times then I would say the obstruction is pretty well buried in the channel an won't be moved without a complete dismantling and rebuild.









~Ceadder


----------



## becks

...Really disappointed Angry again...2nd batch of products ordered from EK... second time in a raw that I have a RMA problem...I'm lucky or what ?!









Cleaned my new radiator following the instructions here : https://ekwb.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/205235541-How-to-clean-water-blocks- used warm water and vinegar in the sink
Than this happened:


Spoiler: Warning!











Now the store I bought it from will want to go the normal RMA route (still in the process of contacting them as of this time).... who will give me back my lost coolant, time...patience and trust....
Another week goes by and this build never seems to be getting any closer to completion...


----------



## velocityx

well so why did you spill the cleaning premix all over it?


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> well so why did you spill the cleaning premix all over it?


What cleaning premix ...








Quote:


> Cleaned my new radiator following the instructions here : https://ekwb.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/205235541-How-to-clean-water-blocks- used *warm water and vinegar* in the sink


----------



## velocityx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> What cleaning premix ...


u mixed water and vinegar, it's a cleaning premix, I did my first loop last month and already looking that the external parts of the rad I knew not to spill vinegar on the outside parts. Imo you can blame yourself for sloppy cleaning work.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> u mixed water and vinegar, it's a cleaning premix, I did my first loop last month and already looking that the external parts of the rad I knew not to spill vinegar on the outside parts. Imo you can blame yourself for sloppy cleaning work.


Why do you keep drawing conclusions without asking ...vinegar went inside the radiator...and it came out blue - greenish color.
If white vinegar is something *Everyone* is wide aware of making harm to the paint to the extend that it peels all off they would'v made a disclaimer on their own Website...a note...something...anything.

Do I see any of that on their website ? No!
And don't worry I didn't came down out of a tree where I lived all my life
I had cleaned a Damn radiator before and this never happened..


----------



## DarthBaggins

White vinegar is an acidic fluid which acids eat paint and alot of other things. If it did spill on the exterior then that would be why the paint peeled off, im seeing abrasion marks on a section of the Rad as well


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> White vinegar is an acidic fluid which acids eat paint and alot of other things. If it did spill on the exterior then that would be why the paint peeled off, im seeing abrasion marks on a section of the Rad as well


Having some industry experience with paints I have to say that there is an issue with the bonding. Of course the vinegar contributed to the pealing but the paint adherence is extremely poor in case of EK rads. I have 3 myself and although I have been careful not to expose them to acidic solutions (descaling or vinegar) the paint is easily chipped off. If the bonding was good then we would have seen some sort of discoloration or wrinkling.


----------



## becks

People just assume and don't ask...And I doubt that White Vinegar (5%) or any vinegar by that matter mixed with water is any harmful to any paint for that short of a time as passing it trough...rinsing with water and laying it in paper towels...

EDIT: What you see its what came under the paint, scratched and buffed.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> White vinegar is an acidic fluid which acids eat paint and alot of other things. If it did spill on the exterior then that would be why the paint peeled off, im seeing abrasion marks on a section of the Rad as well


Looks more like paint flaking to me, which can definitively happen if the paint used don't handle heat all that well. So to me that looks more like boiling water was used than vinegar being spilled over the outside of the radiator. That said, I won't make any conclusions on the topic as I simply don't have the required information to do so (the specific composition of the paint, and whether or not it was applied with proper primer and so on). Vinegar could also have that effect on very specific paints (though the mixture of water to vinegar would have to be really acidic, meaning way to much vinegar).

Just my thoughts on it, but I will admit it if I'm wrong in this specific case.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*


My hands where washing the radiator in that worm water so i Highly doubt it was boiling otherwise its me who has a problem...


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> My hands where washing the radiator in that worm water so i Highly doubt it was boiling otherwise its me who has a problem...


I see, well in that case I'm just going to agree with @vvv850 that the issue is bonding. honestly though EKWB should really anodize their aluminum (from what I can see the radtiator housing is aluminum) instead of painting it, it's cheaper and can handle a hell of a lot more.

If it's an issue with EKWB's paint process, then I doubt you will have any better experience with an identical replacement radiator. I would look at HWLabs for radiators with really resilient paintjobs.


----------



## DarthBaggins

@Akira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing a new RGB AM4 monoblock for GIGABYTE® X370 motherboards


When can we order the heatsink for the Samsung m.2 NVMe SSD's?


----------



## whitrzac

Steel is fine, Not prepping it properly before painting causes issues:thumb:


----------



## Mega Man

Oh waa, stuff happens, as do mistakes, I doubt this is a every day occurance.

Please stop making this ant hill a mountain


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing an M.2 NVMe Heatsink for Next Generation Form Factor SSDs









@DarthBaggins


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> It's steel.


Nope, the shroud is aluminum


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Nope, the shroud is aluminum


Must be some of that newfangled magnetic aluminum then, or is EK doing shady things again?


----------



## zeroibis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Must be some of that newfangled magnetic aluminum then, or is EK doing shady things again?


Ferrous aluminum, the latest alloy on the block!


----------



## shimeng

Going by how the paint on the radiator fins are still intact, it's more than likely that the frame received a poor paint job.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Must be some of that newfangled magnetic aluminum then, or is EK doing shady things again?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Let me check on this


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing an M.2 NVMe Heatsink for Next Generation Form Factor SSDs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @DarthBaggins


but not available via PPC's yet. I know I want to get my 960 EVO under a cooler


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> Must be some of that newfangled magnetic aluminum then, or is EK doing shady things again?


It's steeluminium, months away from transparensteel. Stay tuned for more Star Wars-esque implementations


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> It's steeluminium, months away from transparensteel. Stay tuned for more Star Wars-esque implementations


Not even, Its EK top secret Adamantium alloy rads. They so sick of people complaining their rads were non-durable so they went full ham.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Not even, Its EK top secret Adamantium alloy rads. They so sick of people complaining their rads were non-durable so they went full ham.


Even better -- they went to Pandora and back to get Unobtanium for their rads...


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> Even better -- they went to Pandora and back to get Unobtanium for their rads...


Explains how their Quad XE rads topped the performance charts so easily.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> It's steeluminium, months away from transparensteel. Stay tuned for more Star Wars-esque implementations
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not even, Its EK top secret Adamantium alloy rads. They so sick of people complaining their rads were non-durable so they went full ham.
Click to expand...

sorry but this made me think of this


----------



## d0mmie

A question about the new Gaming Fluid kits, the included pump to be specific:

What kind of noise profile does this pump have if you compare it to a 6w DDC? Same, less, more? Seen some reviews and none really touch on this subject.


----------



## bobbavet

Gday all

Purchased the EK DDC Elite this week.
Cannot remove the black top cap with the fill port hole.
Any tips?

Cheers
Bob


----------



## vvv850

Jus arrived. Unfortunately, the card itself will get here on Monday. Long weekend ahead.


----------



## akira749

EK confirms Intel® Socket LGA-2066 compatibility


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> A question about the new Gaming Fluid kits, the included pump to be specific:
> 
> What kind of noise profile does this pump have if you compare it to a 6w DDC? Same, less, more? Seen some reviews and none really touch on this subject.


It will be on the same level of noise and performance.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobbavet*
> 
> Gday all
> 
> Purchased the EK DDC Elite this week.
> Cannot remove the black top cap with the fill port hole.
> Any tips?
> 
> Cheers
> Bob


All I can see is that the o-ring seal is a bit stucked. I would remove the tube res from the pump top and put it in some hot water. That might help removing the cap after.


----------



## hadesfactor

@Akira749....I have a quick question....do you guys have any plans for waterblocks that are DDR4 compatible? I know not a lots of people use them as it's more for aesthetics than anything but I now there are still people such as myself who use them. I've played with a few ideas 1 in particular is a mount that replaces not the heatspreader on the sides but the removable heat fin on top and replaces the light bars and blots in place instead. I know this isn't an optimal design for cooling as you want direct contact with the dies but it should provide some cooling. Just wondering because it was kind of a pain to mount the Monarch's on my plats


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> @Akira749....I have a quick question....do you guys have any plans for waterblocks that are DDR4 compatible? I know not a lots of people use them as it's more for aesthetics than anything but I now there are still people such as myself who use them. I've played with a few ideas 1 in particular is a mount that replaces not the heatspreader on the sides but the removable heat fin on top and replaces the light bars and blots in place instead. I know this isn't an optimal design for cooling as you want direct contact with the dies but it should provide some cooling. Just wondering because it was kind of a pain to mount the Monarch's on my plats


Our RAM Blocks have always been compatible with DDR4. The only difference is, if you have single-sided DIMM modules, you need to also buy some 1.5mm thick thermal pads to fill-up the empty side.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Our RAM Blocks have always been compatible with DDR4. The only difference is, if you have single-sided DIMM modules, you need to also buy some 1.5mm thick thermal pads to fill-up the empty side.


They are somewhat compatible but for example in the case of dom plats they spreader needed are too short for the the sticks in fact I think if I'm not mistaking even you site says they aren't compatible with dom plats which happens to be the most purchased ram for HEDT....not to mention that removal of the orig spreader sometimes pull the chips right off but thats on Corsair not you guys.

"EK-RAM Monarch Module is a heatsink adapter which allows virtually any (DDR-)SDRAM memory module (of any generation) to employ EK-RAM Monarch series water blocks. Not compatible with Corsair Dominator Platinum Memory Kits!"

So I guess I should rephrase my orig question...do you guys plan on making spreader or block that are compatible with Dom Plats?

I have the Monarch's and I have implemented them in my system but my mounting option was less then stellar and the design I'm playing with is far from finished lol


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> They are somewhat compatible but for example in the case of dom plats they spreader needed are too short for the the sticks in fact I think if I'm not mistaking even you site says they aren't compatible with dom plats which happens to be the most purchased ram for HEDT....not to mention that removal of the orig spreader sometimes pull the chips right off but thats on Corsair not you guys.
> 
> "EK-RAM Monarch Module is a heatsink adapter which allows virtually any (DDR-)SDRAM memory module (of any generation) to employ EK-RAM Monarch series water blocks. Not compatible with Corsair Dominator Platinum Memory Kits!"
> 
> So I guess I should rephrase my orig question...do you guys plan on making spreader or block that are compatible with Dom Plats?
> 
> I have the Monarch's and I have implemented them in my system but my mounting option was less then stellar and the design I'm playing with is far from finished lol


No sorry, we don't have plans for them


----------



## war4peace

Now I know why the XE360 fans aren't recommended for the Thermaltake Core X5: I had to remove a fan from one of the radiators to mount the GPU in. Leeson learned


----------



## bobbavet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> All I can see is that the o-ring seal is a bit stucked. I would remove the tube res from the pump top and put it in some hot water. That might help removing the cap after.


Yeh got it of this morning, must of loosened it with my efforts last night. lol

On another note. Will EK have cpu blocks on release of Threadripper?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just ordered my M.2 Heatsink from PPC's (black one), can't wait to get it next week


----------



## Mads1

Also wanting the M.2 Heatsink in Black for my current build project.


----------



## Leonko

what is the difference in those 2 heatsinks? i mean, why is one cheaper ?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Nickel plating is the cost difference


----------



## shredded

Anyone else had issues with EK DDC 140 PWM pump/res combo?

My first pump failed, and now the second is failing.

Same issue both times. Pump won't start, might if you tap it a bunch. Once she's running it's all good, but a PITA and not really acceptable.

When I RMA it will be the 3rd time I'll have filled and bled the loop


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shredded*
> 
> Anyone else had issues with EK DDC 140 PWM pump/res combo?
> 
> My first pump failed, and now the second is failing.
> 
> Same issue both times. Pump won't start, might if you tap it a bunch. Once she's running it's all good, but a PITA and not really acceptable.
> 
> When I RMA it will be the 3rd time I'll have filled and bled the loop


Could you post a pic with the loop?


----------



## shredded

I'm happy to cop it on the chin if I've stuffed up somehow, but to my knowledge I've done everything I should have, and they did RMA my last pump so I presume there was an issue with the pumo


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shredded*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm happy to cop it on the chin if I've stuffed up somehow, but to my knowledge I've done everything I should have, and they did RMA my last pump so I presume there was an issue with the pumo


Just out of curiosity, at what speed are you running your pump (not that this is the culprit)?


----------



## shredded

Runs off the 2nd CPU header, speed varies depending on cpu temp.

At idle its reading about 1200rpm (high 20*C core temp), on full load around 60*C core temp it reads around 2400rpm roughly, dont remember exactly.
My fans and pump run at 80% at 67*C and 20% at 20*C or something like that


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shredded*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm happy to cop it on the chin if I've stuffed up somehow, but to my knowledge I've done everything I should have, and they did RMA my last pump so I presume there was an issue with the pumo


My only critique is probably your DDCs are dying because they aren't getting any airflow to cool them. If you notice carefully, the HS on your DDC is actually smaller than the fan hub (and fans traditionally have zero or minimal airflow at their hub). I'd recommend switching to a D5 with a low profile resevoir or get a small 40mm fan blowing laterally on to the DDC.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Normally a DDC won't die that fast there should be enough airflow for it. There is a chance of something getting pinched by the heatsink when it's installed causing it.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Normally a DDC won't die that fast there should be enough airflow for it. There is a chance of something getting pinched by the heatsink when it's installed causing it.


Oh yeah I forgot about that, didn't Jayz2cents do that on cam? something about an Aluminium casing causing a short in the power cables?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yes he did, lol. . and I've done it once on accident


----------



## RadActiveLobstr

So how bout those modular AIO's that were coming soon™?


----------



## shredded

I have 3 140 fans as intake on the front of the case, I'm sure the pump is receiving plenty of airflow.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> They are somewhat compatible but for example in the case of dom plats they spreader needed are too short for the the sticks in fact I think if I'm not mistaking even you site says they aren't compatible with dom plats which happens to be the most purchased ram for HEDT....not to mention that removal of the orig spreader sometimes pull the chips right off but thats on Corsair not you guys.
> 
> "EK-RAM Monarch Module is a heatsink adapter which allows virtually any (DDR-)SDRAM memory module (of any generation) to employ EK-RAM Monarch series water blocks. Not compatible with Corsair Dominator Platinum Memory Kits!"
> 
> So I guess I should rephrase my orig question...do you guys plan on making spreader or block that are compatible with Dom Plats?
> 
> I have the Monarch's and I have implemented them in my system but my mounting option was less then stellar and the design I'm playing with is far from finished lol
> 
> 
> 
> No sorry, we don't have plans for them
Click to expand...

Can drop Monarch Heatsinks onto the PCB correct? DDR3 is chipped on both sides and DDR4 is only chipped on a single side, so a thermal strip should keep things snug while the other side serves the purpose of cooling the chips. Right?

So Platinums should work just fine with the $35(in the States) heatsink kit. I plan to do it with Vengeance sticks, and not really sure about Platinum, but I don't see why they wouldn't work. The PCB should be essentially the same size as the Vengeance PCB. Although with the RGB lighting I could be wrong. Swapping the heatsinks out would simply disable RGB capability.









~Ceadder


----------



## StreekG

Hi guys,

Sharing my build with you..

After 6 years with an x58 system (Intel 990x, G1 Assassin, custom loop) i have finally decided to pull the pin and go for an upgrade.

My x99 build so far with EK Supremacy EVO plexi/nickel. A range of EK HDC fittings and adaptors.

I was about to fill the loop today and realised i didn't have much EK EVO Coolant left, as i cannot get it anymore, has anybody tried Cryofuel?? It's been out for months but not a single review online.... weird










































Decided to with Liquid metal TIM for this one


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shredded*
> 
> I have 3 140 fans as intake on the front of the case, I'm sure the pump is receiving plenty of airflow.


I think we're over looking what he posted to start with. He says it will run once tapped on. So heat and flow doesn't seem to be the issue. What it seems like and I can be wrong as I'm not there in front of it is that you are getting pockets of air in the pump. So when you start it the pump won't turn and tapping gets it running. Do you have this problem if you run the pump o. Full speed at all times (as you said 1200rpm at idle). Or I would try a different spot in the loop (maybe even change the tubing around). Just some thoughts


----------



## shredded

Well air pockets should collect in the rez,and did when I bled the system each time I filled (I spent hours getting every bit of air I could out for maximum perf/reliability) and the issue should be at it's worst when I fill the loop and gradually get better as any air gets trapped in the top of the res. BTW. I use the ek separator thing and foam supplied.

Additionally I top up the rez to the top, just above the threading of the clear tank when I fill the loop and bleed it. Any air would gather there. This and leaks would cause this level to drop. This hasn't happened.

It takes a fair bit of vigorous tapping to get the pump going. Sometimes it won't even start and I have to power down and wait for CPU to cool before trying again.

Also all fans run at 100% for a few seconds on boot, it has no problem running at low speeds after it's started. The pump still won't start solely with a high pwm signal (such as 100% at start or 60+% pwm while I'm franticly hitting the pump to start it).

I'm considering buying a pair of fine filters and running then in parallel in my loop somewhere but I don't really have the space for it to fit neatly in the loop. I want to do this to eliminate junk blocking the pump as a possible cause, despite that this is unlikely as the loop was flushed and I run the foam such would catch larger particulates in the rez


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shredded*
> 
> Anyone else had issues with EK DDC 140 PWM pump/res combo?
> 
> My first pump failed, and now the second is failing.
> 
> Same issue both times. Pump won't start, might if you tap it a bunch. Once she's running it's all good, but a PITA and not really acceptable.
> 
> When I RMA it will be the 3rd time I'll have filled and bled the loop


Its a not uncommon issue with DDC pumps. They can initially be fine, then develop delayed or hesitating startup which normally progresses to full electrical failure.

D5 all the way.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Can drop Monarch Heatsinks onto the PCB correct? DDR3 is chipped on both sides and DDR4 is only chipped on a single side, so a thermal strip should keep things snug while the other side serves the purpose of cooling the chips. Right?
> 
> So Platinums should work just fine with the $35(in the States) heatsink kit. I plan to do it with Vengeance sticks, and not really sure about Platinum, but I don't see why they wouldn't work. The PCB should be essentially the same size as the Vengeance PCB. Although with the RGB lighting I could be wrong. Swapping the heatsinks out would simply disable RGB capability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The problem is specifically with Dom Plats. It's a combo of their heatspreaders using more like a glue TIM and the height of the PCB....There have been lots and I mean lots of people who ripped the modules off their PCB's when trying to remove the spreader and the module don't cover the mem modules fully as the height on them is a lot taller. I know people have had success with Vegence etc. I did manage to mount them and seeing as mem water cooling is really just for aesthetics Im fine with the way they came out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Can drop Monarch Heatsinks onto the PCB correct? DDR3 is chipped on both sides and DDR4 is only chipped on a single side, so a thermal strip should keep things snug while the other side serves the purpose of cooling the chips. Right?
> 
> So Platinums should work just fine with the $35(in the States) heatsink kit. I plan to do it with Vengeance sticks, and not really sure about Platinum, but I don't see why they wouldn't work. The PCB should be essentially the same size as the Vengeance PCB. Although with the RGB lighting I could be wrong. Swapping the heatsinks out would simply disable RGB capability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem is specifically with Dom Plats. It's a combo of their heatspreaders using more like a glue TIM and the height of the PCB....There have been lots and I mean lots of people who ripped the modules off their PCB's when trying to remove the spreader and the module don't cover the mem modules fully as the height on them is a lot taller. I know people have had success with Vegence etc. I did manage to mount them and seeing as mem water cooling is really just for aesthetics Im fine with the way they came out.
Click to expand...

Ahhh, true dat on the module thickness.

But a heat gun should heat up the TIM enough to make removal a snap so long as the user doesn't concentrate the heat on one surface area of the heatsink.









~Ceadder


----------



## SpecFree

Having joined the EK club i had a quick question.
this is my current loop that i built yesterday:



first off its my first build - and i went for a cpu loop to get my feet wet, and i would love to hear if you guys had any input or if you see anything wrong with it.
secondly my loop idles at around ambient and gets to around 52-53c on full load - when should i start to worry about the liquid getting too hot for the pump/tubing?


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> secondly my loop idles at around ambient and gets to around 52-53c on full load - when should i start to worry about the liquid getting too hot for the pump/tubing?


Nobody can tell reliably unless there's a water temperature sensor installed.
But I had my water loop with both CPU and GPU over 55 degrees for hours at a time with no issues.


----------



## whitrzac

When the water temp gets to 50c+ you should really look into what's causing issues.









I'm dissipating 700+w through a XE360 and an elcheapo 280, my water temp is ~36*c


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shredded*
> 
> Anyone else had issues with EK DDC 140 PWM pump/res combo?
> 
> My first pump failed, and now the second is failing.
> 
> Same issue both times. Pump won't start, might if you tap it a bunch. Once she's running it's all good, but a PITA and not really acceptable.
> 
> When I RMA it will be the 3rd time I'll have filled and bled the loop


Hi there

Not sure, running EK DDC 3.2 PWM Elite edition and no issues at all after 6-8 months of 24/7 use, pump is running at constant full speed which is around 4531RPM according to Aquaero or Aquasuite

At full speed pump is very quiet and I really don't hear the pump and I don't have need to lower speed of pump,tried that only for testing but this resulted in higher temperatures

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> Having joined the EK club i had a quick question.
> this is my current loop that i built yesterday:
> 
> 
> 
> first off its my first build - and i went for a cpu loop to get my feet wet, and i would love to hear if you guys had any input or if you see anything wrong with it.
> secondly my loop idles at around ambient and gets to around 52-53c on full load - when should i start to worry about the liquid getting too hot for the pump/tubing?


Hi there

This 52-53°C is water temperature and if yes what temperature sensor are you using and where is plugged?

Assume case is Phanteks Enthoo Evolv?
If yes then I would suggest try remove top panel and check over here thread about how to get best results or performance from yours case as this case doesn't have best airflow

But if this water temperature is such high I would definitely check airflow of the case as first, remove front panel and top panel etc

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> Having joined the EK club i had a quick question.
> this is my current loop that i built yesterday:
> 
> 
> 
> first off its my first build - and i went for a cpu loop to get my feet wet, and i would love to hear if you guys had any input or if you see anything wrong with it.
> secondly my loop idles at around ambient and gets to around 52-53c on full load - when should i start to worry about the liquid getting too hot for the pump/tubing?


I would be very surprised if the loop coolant could get that warm on just a CPU only loop. Are you maybe confusing CPU temp with coolant temp?

If the coolant really is that warm its into the region where you will see accelerated ageing of the tubing. 60C is what most manufacturers provide as a temp limit, but I would assume it could handle higher. Much warmer though and tubing will soften and you risk tubing slipping out of the fittings.


----------



## shredded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> Not sure, running EK DDC 3.2 PWM Elite edition and no issues at all after 6-8 months of 24/7 use, pump is running at constant full speed which is around 4531RPM according to Aquaero or Aquasuite
> 
> At full speed pump is very quiet and I really don't hear the pump and I don't have need to lower speed of pump,tried that only for testing but this resulted in higher temperatures
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


It runs fine once it starts pumping.
The issue is when i turn off and back on again, like when i boot up every afternoon after work


----------



## SpecFree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> I would be very surprised if the loop coolant could get that warm on just a CPU only loop. Are you maybe confusing CPU temp with coolant temp?
> 
> If the coolant really is that warm its into the region where you will see accelerated ageing of the tubing. 60C is what most manufacturers provide as a temp limit, but I would assume it could handle higher. Much warmer though and tubing will soften and you risk tubing slipping out of the fittings.


You are correct, i went by cpu temps, i had No idea i could get a sensor for liquid temps.

Any comment on the Tube itself? Im wondering if it has too much tension


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> You are correct, i went by cpu temps, i had No idea i could get a sensor for liquid temps.
> 
> Any comment on the Tube itself? Im wondering if it has too much tension


Yeah you can get all sorts of sensor for liquid...inline and stop plugs. I use stop plug types because my rad is a mutliport but you can get in line sensors that are threaded on either side. Your tubing looks goo except for the block to pump run. I cant tell if it just the angle of the pic but it looks like its being kinked/flattened by the tension I cant tell. but if you're getting good flow I wouldn't worry too much about it


----------



## SpecFree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Yeah you can get all sorts of sensor for liquid...inline and stop plugs. I use stop plug types because my rad is a mutliport but you can get in line sensors that are threaded on either side. Your tubing looks goo except for the block to pump run. I cant tell if it just the angle of the pic but it looks like its being kinked/flattened by the tension I cant tell. but if you're getting good flow I wouldn't worry too much about it


would you suggest having one or two sensors? or just one somewhere after the rad?

also here is a better shot of the tubing you were unsure about:


----------



## vvv850

It depends on how accurately you want to measure the water temp. Depending on flow, the water temperature before and after a radiator can vary between 0.2C and 2C (rough estimate). I would suggest going with 2 sensors on the inlet and outlet of the radiator (and then average the readings to get an average water temperature).


----------



## war4peace

If you go for one sensor, you should place it after the CPU waterblock and before the radiator, that way you read the highest liquid temperature in the loop.


----------



## becks

Spoiler: Pics!










I'm almost there...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobbavet*
> 
> Yeh got it of this morning, must of loosened it with my efforts last night. lol
> 
> On another note. Will EK have cpu blocks on release of Threadripper?


Good news about the reservoir!!
Yes, we will have something the Threadripper.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> what is the difference in those 2 heatsinks? i mean, why is one cheaper ?


The nickel finish is a tad more expensive to produce than the black.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RadActiveLobstr*
> 
> So how bout those modular AIO's that were coming soon™?


Not before Fall. Sorry about the delays.


----------



## akira749

@whitrzac, I asked about the material used on our radiator shroud and I learned a new thing about them!!

So, I apologize for the misinformation I gave you. The sides are indeed steel while the top and bottom parts are aluminum. I always thought that all 4 panels were aluminum.

Sorry again.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> @whitrzac, I asked about the material used on our radiator shroud and I learned a new thing about them!!
> 
> So, I apologize for the misinformation I gave you. The sides are indeed steel while the top and bottom parts are aluminum. I always thought that all 4 panels were aluminum.
> 
> Sorry again.


Maybe it's a good time to update the site?

Technical details:
Material:
- Copper fins
- 90% copper tubing (H90)
- Brass chambers
- Aluminum housing

Not that it matters that much but it's better for your clients to have the correct information.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> @whitrzac, I asked about the material used on our radiator shroud and I learned a new thing about them!!
> 
> So, I apologize for the misinformation I gave you. The sides are indeed steel while the top and bottom parts are aluminum. I always thought that all 4 panels were aluminum.
> 
> Sorry again.


This is a good thing, what are we worried about? steel is super durable. The only problem is it can't hold paint as well as anodized Aluminium.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> This is a good thing, what are we worried about? steel is super durable. The only problem is it can't hold paint as well as anodized Aluminium.


Nothing to worry.









I just misinformed whitrzac and was apologizing about it.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> This is a good thing, what are we worried about? steel is super durable. The only problem is it can't hold paint as well as anodized Aluminium.


As long as the steel is adequately prepped and a self-etcher of other type of metal primer is used steel can hold paint just fine...dont forget most cars are steel paneled but you're right its def not as good as anodized alum because its actually in the metal.


----------



## AllGamer

Hey guys, is there some sort of best practices in regards to how long the tubes (distance to travel) for a single EK D5 pump ?

Also noticed that the EK CPU block, while it says "In" and "Out" i've actually noticed when reversed. it works better, the water flow is faster.

Is there any reason why it's recommended In from the fins, and out from the channels ?

Either case I'm currently using them as per recommendation, but I've noticed the pressure / water flow seems to be dropping from a single D5.

It's working fine, not noisy, but it's installed vertically, instead of horizontally (the reservoir cylinder is horizontal, so that makes the D5 in vertical position)

overall the loop is without bubbles, except the CPU block it keeps accumulating small bubbles over time, to form a big bubble, which then i have to til the case around to let go of that giant bubble.

*is there a way to prevent bubble forming in the CPU block ?*

The CPU blow is the highest point of the loop, and it's in a standard vertical computer case, that means motherboard and CPU is vertical as well, which is why the annoying bubbles forms at the top of the CPU block.

Also I've noticed the bigger the bubble the slower the water flow.

*What is a good normal speed for a EK D5 pump ?*

currently i'm getting 60 lpm or 15 almost 16 gpm

should it be faster?

pondering if I should add a 2nd pump, to have enough power to push away that big bubble that forms in the CPU block over time.


----------



## Mega Man

1 best practices - not to short. There is a max length which really corresponds to a few things but in reality 98% of builds will never be that long to worry about it.....

2 bubbles happen if you disturb the top of the res generally.

3 the in and out are important on Most blocks. I gm cant think of the name of the plate - I want to say jet plate- basically on the in there is a plate with a slot in it. That raises the pressure and helps cause turbulence. In the black. Doing it backwards removes tat and kills Thermal efficiency

4 iirc it's 1gpm ( it's either gpm or lpm and I never remember I have to look it up )

Hope this helps


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 best practices - not to short. There is a max length which really corresponds to a few things but in reality 98% of builds will never be that long to worry about it.....
> 
> 2 bubbles happen if you disturb the top of the res generally.
> 
> 3 the in and out are important on Most blocks. I gm cant think of the name of the plate - I want to say jet plate- basically on the in there is a plate with a slot in it. That raises the pressure and helps cause turbulence. In the black. Doing it backwards removes tat and kills Thermal efficiency
> 
> 4 iirc it's 1gpm ( it's either gpm or lpm and I never remember I have to look it up )
> 
> Hope this helps


1) i might be running into the max length issue, it's probably too long, as it's an External Rad setup for an old system.

2) now this definitely could be the source of the bubbles, as the reservoir is horizontal, that give chances for the bubble to travel back into the loop.

3) non issue, just found it interesting, and was curious why going backwards seems to flow faster.

4) if it's at 1 gpm, then I think i'm good, since it's flowing at 15.8 gpm

Thanks, that answers most of the things I wasn't sure about.


----------



## war4peace

I don't think you can possibly achieve 15.8 gpm. That's almost 72 liters per minute, or 4320 liters per hour, while a D5 pump can't make more than 1500 liters per hour, and even that's a stretch.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I don't think you can possibly achieve 15.8 gpm. That's almost 72 liters per minute, or 4320 liters per hour, while a D5 pump can't make more than 1500 liters per hour, and even that's a stretch.


my bad you're right I was reading the wrong conversion









15 lpm = 3.962581 gpm

NVM scratch that as well

according to the sensor it's going at 60 Liters per minute, so that does translate to 15.8 Gallons per minute.

i'm using the Aquacomputer flow meter.

here is when i first had some question about it http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/10100_50#post_26185749

pondering if that's the normal.

at the moment it seems to have stabilized around 60 LPM, when a lot of bubbles blocks the way, goes down to 50 LPM, removes the bubbles, and it goes back up to around 60 LPM


----------



## war4peace

What kind of sensor do you have? If it's the mechanical one you have to calibrate it to either 169 pulses per liter or 158 pulses per liter. There was a review somewhere which recommended 158 pulses per liter for it.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> What kind of sensor do you have? If it's the mechanical one you have to calibrate it to either 169 pulses per liter or 158 pulses per liter. There was a review somewhere which recommended 158 pulses per liter for it.


i'm using this one http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-misc/aquacomputer-flow-rate-sensor-high-flow-usb-g1-4.html

it's supposed to be calibration free.

the pump is a EK D5 PWM with the full EK reservoir and mounting kit all in one, 2x EK 480 Rads, EK CPU and EK Video blocks (GTX 1080), combined total tubes length aprox 1 meter each way, so aprox 2 meter total.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> What kind of sensor do you have? If it's the mechanical one you have to calibrate it to either 169 pulses per liter or 158 pulses per liter. There was a review somewhere which recommended 158 pulses per liter for it.


You do not need to calibrate it- as it is mechanical it is supposed to be a preset value


----------



## hadesfactor

I know its set to 169 pulses and that's what AQ recommends but these mechanical sensors are able to be calibrated especially for use with pastels and other coolants that have a different flow rate then just water. I know people have set them to 158 but the default is 169 and that's what the manual recommends setting it to.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> my bad you're right I was reading the wrong conversion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 15 lpm = 3.962581 gpm
> 
> NVM scratch that as well
> 
> according to the sensor it's going at 60 Liters per minute, so that does translate to 15.8 Gallons per minute.
> 
> i'm using the Aquacomputer flow meter.
> 
> here is when i first had some question about it http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/10100_50#post_26185749
> 
> pondering if that's the normal.
> 
> at the moment it seems to have stabilized around 60 LPM, when a lot of bubbles blocks the way, goes down to 50 LPM, removes the bubbles, and it goes back up to around 60 LPM


Are you sure you are not reading litres per hour rather then per minute. As the guys have said flow rates anywhere near that high are not physically possible.
With dual pumps I get a Max of 6.5L/m. With zero restriction the d5 pump is capable of about 20L/m but even the slightest restriction drops it by a huge degree.

The USB version of the mechanical flow sensor has no settings to change. The calibration settings only apply to meters connected to the flow header.


----------



## IMI4tth3w

my wife's thermaltake core p3 build.



http://imgur.com/W5MfU



supremacy evo cpu waterblock
1080ti strix gpu waterblock + blackplate
coolstream pe 360mm radiator
ddc pump combo + 120mm mount
primochill fittings and hardline


----------



## StreekG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> 1) i might be running into the max length issue, it's probably too long, as it's an External Rad setup for an old system.
> 
> 2) now this definitely could be the source of the bubbles, as the reservoir is horizontal, that give chances for the bubble to travel back into the loop.
> 
> 3) non issue, just found it interesting, and was curious why going backwards seems to flow faster.
> 
> 4) if it's at 1 gpm, then I think i'm good, since it's flowing at 15.8 gpm
> 
> Thanks, that answers most of the things I wasn't sure about.


I have some long runs and have no issue, i'm running a single D5 pump. My pump is wierd, it was shipped with the red speed dial incorrectly placed so i end up turning the dial reverse from 2-4 to decrease sped. Speed 2 is the highest setting, while speed 4 is the lowest.

Anyway, i have no flow issues and i have managed to clear all my bubbles with no problem.


----------



## Mega Man

ment to ask, whats the total amount of tubing you have, i have run over 20 feet of tubing without issue....


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You do not need to calibrate it- as it is mechanical it is supposed to be a preset value


Not according to this review.
But it's an academic discussion, the difference is not affecting anything.


----------



## MuxLee

hi
I have two EK D5 pumps - with pwm control . I just trested them with 12v and nothing happens







does the RPM signal need to be connected or are they dead ?

TIA
Mux


----------



## Mega Man

need more info, and pics would help.

what does the sticker on the back read, ek or lowra ?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> hi
> I have two EK D5 pumps - with pwm control . I just trested them with 12v and nothing happens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> does the RPM signal need to be connected or are they dead ?
> 
> TIA
> Mux


Double check your molex connects are actually live. I had issues with my molex pins slipping out of alignment.

These D5s don't need a PWM signal. The V1 defaults to 2200RPM if no PWM, the V2 defaults to maxspeed.


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Double check your molex connects are actually live. I had issues with my molex pins slipping out of alignment.
> 
> These D5s don't need a PWM signal. The V1 defaults to 2200RPM if no PWM, the V2 defaults to maxspeed.


that's what I thought - I am going from a bench PSU to the cables so its not the plugs looks like an RMA but 2 of them EK are usally good that's why I bought them . I have had them for about 6 months but I have nt tested until today . I was just about to finnish my build ;(

thanks just needed a 2nd opinion

Mux


----------



## becks

Anyone knows the EK Radiator paint code ? (XE series) whenever you take this babies out its impossible to have it scratch free


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Are you sure you are not reading litres per hour rather then per minute. As the guys have said flow rates anywhere near that high are not physically possible.
> With dual pumps I get a Max of 6.5L/m. With zero restriction the d5 pump is capable of about 20L/m but even the slightest restriction drops it by a huge degree.
> 
> The USB version of the mechanical flow sensor has no settings to change. The calibration settings only apply to meters connected to the flow header.


actually you are right, I was reading it wrong.

It was 50~60 l/h (litre per hour) which is aprox 13 gph ~ 16 gph


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 2 bubbles happen if you disturb the top of the res generally.


so, i went and put the EK res up right vertical position, now the flow rate is more normal, and less bubbles are formed in the other components.

This seems to have been the major cause of the issues I've been seeing, with degrading flow rate and big bubbles forming over time.

Conclusion, bad idea to use reservoirs horizontally, as the bubbles washes back into the loop.


----------



## elbeasto

Is it just me or does EK-DuraClear go cloudy very quickly?

I used LRT Advance before and it was fine for a few months but DuraClear goes cloudy for me in a couple of hours.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> Is it just me or does EK-DuraClear go cloudy very quickly?
> 
> I used LRT Advance before and it was fine for a few months but DuraClear goes cloudy for me in a couple of hours.


Hi there

In my case EK DuraClear lasted around 2-3 months because they started to yellowing(water temp never been higher than 33°C) replaced with Mayhems UV White and now I'm using EK ZMT 16/10

Right now trying EK CryoFuel Blood Red which I wanted to test myself as friend considering to use it and I didn't wanted to recommend or use it on his loop until I know for sure is good or have good performance and this fluid/coolant has been OK for about 2 weeks and now looks really cloudy and performance is not bad but with Mayhems Pastel my temps has been bit better

Loop has been cleaned or flushed with Mayhems Blitz Part 2 and radiators has been as well cleaned and flushed with Mayhems Blitz

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> Is it just me or does EK-DuraClear go cloudy very quickly?
> 
> I used LRT Advance before and it was fine for a few months but DuraClear goes cloudy for me in a couple of hours.


What coolant are you using?


----------



## elbeasto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> What coolant are you using?


EK Cryo Fuel clear.

I've also run decriminalised water through new dura clear and get the same result very quickly.


----------



## velocityx

decriminalised water you say, that must be so clean a police warrant can't touch it









as for the subject, yea, im running ek cryofuel clear and also duraclear tubing and noticed the same thing. I was a bit upset because it was my first waterloop and wanted it clear and it got mushy very fast.


----------



## elbeasto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> decriminalised water you say, that must be so clean a police warrant can't touch it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as for the subject, yea, im running ek cryofuel clear and also duraclear tubing and noticed the same thing. I was a bit upset because it was my first waterloop and wanted it clear and it got mushy very fast.


lol damn auto-correct.









Um yeah, I'm going to get some more LRT and maybe some Masterkleer & see how that goes.

For a short while there LRT had some EK branding on it, but now it's just EK DurClear. Perhaps they're just re-branding the non LRT primochill now which I've read was pretty bad for clouding, I dunno, just speculating.

I was disappointed too, I did a new loop with all new parts and that nice look you get from clear tubing and fluid was very short lived.


----------



## vvv850

I'm running Cryofuel Navy blue and also Duraclear.

The tubing itself seems of a lower quality then the LRT Advanced. From the package it is a bit collapsed (not round in section), there are longitudinal lines on it (from processing) and it has some imperfections. Using the navy blue coolant masks those imperfections.

I also noticed that the coolant stains, but not from the pigment. The staining is white and is visible in the first day of usage.

I drained the loop using Cryofuel and Duraclear 3 times now (because of new components added) and every time I need to clean the reservoir. It seems to stain where the liquid ends and the air starts. I now avoid keeping the fluid level under the black reservoir caps.

This happened on my full cover block. The fluid sipped through the shortest path leaving so marks on its way. Can't explain it.

Res stain:


Block stain:


Water sipping through block:


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> lol damn auto-correct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Um yeah, I'm going to get some more LRT and maybe some Masterkleer & see how that goes.
> 
> For a short while there LRT had some EK branding on it, but now it's just EK DurClear. Perhaps they're just re-branding the non LRT primochill now which I've read was pretty bad for clouding, I dunno, just speculating.
> 
> I was disappointed too, I did a new loop with all new parts and that nice look you get from clear tubing and fluid was very short lived.


Hi there

Not sure if I would touch PrimoChill LRT or EK DuraClear again,used LRT on my friend loop and this tubing started to yellowing as well, EK DuraClear I've used on my loop previously and same thing has happened to me as well

Then I went with Mayhems Ultra Clear which has fared much better and friend still running same tubing now for about 6 months and still tubing looks good

I have tried on my loop Mayhems UV White which has been awesome tubing

Now I'm using EK ZMT on my loop and everything looks good just this EK CryoFuel Blood Red is not the best as well, looks cloudy, replaced today coolant again for another bottle of the EK CryoFuel Blood Red and will see how long will last clear or clearer

I would have look on this review and test

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/02/05/extreme-rigs-soft-tubing-test/

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/12/06/extreme-rigs-soft-tube-test-take-2/

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## jura11

@vvv850

This staining doesn't look good,looks like I will be going back to pastel

Just today I replaced coolant or fluid for EK CryoFuel Blood Red and looks like I will go back to pastel or Mayhems X1

I will be not touching EK DuraClear on my loop there

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## elbeasto

I noticed the imperfections on the tubing as well, little bumps and such.
Not buying DuraClear again...

Not sure if the block seeping is related to tubing, looks more like the block isn't sealed properly.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> I noticed the imperfections on the tubing as well, little bumps and such.
> Not buying DuraClear again...
> 
> Not sure if the block seeping is related to tubing, looks more like the block isn't sealed properly.


The block is seated well. Very good performance on the GPU.

The sipping is also expected as there is no gasket preventing water to go between the acrylic and block.

The staining on the other hand is odd. I'm not to concerned though as this is only an estetic blemish.

I will definitely try another combo (tube/coolant) another time.


----------



## elbeasto

Oh I see, it's staining after seeping through?
My thought would first be the dye/coolant but it could be tubing not sure...

My EK block's temps are very good also.








It's just the clouding that's bothering me lol.


----------



## vvv850

It's not the tubing for sure. I believe it's the additives and not the dye.

Yes, the staining became visible after the bleeding subsided.


----------



## TheParisHeaton

update.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Just received my first EK blocks in the mail yesterday. I have to say, I can now see what all the fuss is about. The blocks are gorgeous









Now I have what is likely a very silly question. But for a first time custom loop builder I want to be absolutely sure rather than make assumptions.
My plan was to have these cards in SLI and run parallel tubing between them:







However after reading through the manual, EK makes no mention of this.



I plan on using 16mm OD Acrylic and just want to verify you can in fact run two parallel tubes between these blocks.


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Just received my first EK blocks in the mail yesterday. I have to say, I can now see what all the fuss is about. The blocks are gorgeous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have what is likely a very silly question. But for a first time custom loop builder I want to be absolutely sure rather than make assumptions.
> My plan was to have these cards in SLI and run parallel tubing between them:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However after reading through the manual, EK makes no mention of this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan on using 16mm OD Acrylic and just want to verify you can in fact run two parallel tubes between these blocks.


You can run parallel between the blocks no issues


----------



## Jubijub

also a question about blocks :

on the user manual it says that the Dual block should have inlet on top, and exhaust on bottom right (or top right optionnaly).

Is it possible to run it reverse, and have inlet on the bottom right, and exhaust on top (to make the loop go clockwise around the case ?)

I found 2 occurences on comments where it is the case, but I wanted to make sure here.

I am considering using the parallel version.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> You can run parallel between the blocks no issues


Thank you!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> also a question about blocks :
> 
> on the user manual it says that the Dual block should have inlet on top, and exhaust on bottom right (or top right optionnaly).
> 
> Is it possible to run it reverse, and have inlet on the bottom right, and exhaust on top (to make the loop go clockwise around the case ?)
> 
> I found 2 occurences on comments where it is the case, but I wanted to make sure here.
> 
> Also, if mounted reverse, does it still allow to do either serial or parallel ? I was considering going parallel


Also a good question. My hope was to have the loop routing something like this:


----------



## rubenlol2

That wont work at all, you're going to need to do this.


----------



## looniam

that is the inlet (outlet in red):


----------



## Jubijub

With an example (not my rig, but the picture is quite clear)

User manual recommends the green arrow approach (inlet : top, outlet : bottom right)

Can I do the blue arrow approach (inlet : bottom right, outlet : top) with no issues ?



There might be 3 answers to this question :
- no
- yes, but requires rotating 180° the bridge
- yes, simply plug inlet in bottom right


----------



## crisgen

Sorry for disturb and hello to everyone. I would a little like to help from you about the compatibility of my video card with the EK X360 kit. I had this card already and, honestly, I did not care much about the difference in metals inside a custom liquid loop before buy the EK Kit. I can not find exact information on the material used by asus for POSEIDON's WB but I'm afraid it's just aluminum. According to your experience and knowledge, can I use my card with the x360 kit or should I continue to keep the card air cooled and in the future change for a vga and a WB EK?
For now I have no money to spend so I should wait until the end of the year to upgrade the VGA. The liquid coolant for my loop is this EK-CryoFuel Blood Red Premix 900 mL.
Thank you

Edit: first mistake....this is the vga
https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/POSEIDON-GTX980TI-P-6GD5/overview/

Edit 2: seeing the video in asus page is indicate a copper vapor chamber but I don't know if is that I need.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> also a question about blocks :
> 
> on the user manual it says that the Dual block should have inlet on top, and exhaust on bottom right (or top right optionnaly).
> 
> Is it possible to run it reverse, and have inlet on the bottom right, and exhaust on top (to make the loop go clockwise around the case ?)
> 
> I found 2 occurences on comments where it is the case, but I wanted to make sure here.
> 
> I am considering using the parallel version.


Yes you can.

BUT, do you plan on connecting it to a Monoblock like the picture you linked in your other reply?

If the answer is yes then you'll have an issue since the left port on a monoblock is the outlet. If you exit from the top GPU block but then go to the right port (the inlet) of the monoblock then you'll be fine.


----------



## Phaedrus89

So it does appear I have the correct inlet port on the mono block:



So its either I have the bottom card left 1/4'' or right 1/4'' be the inlet from the basement passthrough. Then exit to the inlet of the monoblock.


----------



## looniam

parallel:



serial:


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes you can.
> 
> BUT, do you plan on connecting it to a Monoblock like the picture you linked in your other reply?
> 
> If the answer is yes then you'll have an issue since the left port on a monoblock is the outlet. If you exit from the top GPU block but then go to the right port (the inlet) of the monoblock then you'll be fine.


I'm not sure I understand your question









I plan to have :
- 2 GPU blocks EK-FC 1080 GTX Ti - Nickel
- 1 bridge to connect them : EK-FC Terminal Dual Parallel 3-slots (60.9mm)
- I indeed plan to have a Motherboard block EK-FB Asus X99 Monoblock - Nickel

I only need to invert the bridge connection. I intend to connect the mobo block as recommanded on the block manual, ie using the rightmost port as the inline (the one just on top of the CPU)

My loop would thus be :
Res > Pump > Bridge (via bottom right port inlet, and outlet via top left port) > mobo block (inlet via rightmost port, outlet via leftmost port) > rad > rad > rad > flow sensor > Res


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> I'm not sure I understand your question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to have :
> - 2 GPU blocks EK-FC 1080 GTX Ti - Nickel
> - 1 bridge to connect them : EK-FC Terminal Dual Parallel 3-slots (60.9mm)
> - I indeed plan to have a Motherboard block EK-FB Asus X99 Monoblock - Nickel
> 
> I only need to invert the bridge connection. I intend to connect the mobo block as recommanded on the block manual, ie using the rightmost port as the inline (the one just on top of the CPU)
> 
> My loop would thus be :
> Res > Pump > Bridge (via bottom right port inlet, and outlet via top left port) > mobo block (inlet via rightmost port, outlet via leftmost port) > rad > rad > rad > flow sensor > Res


Seems we have the same setup and questions. Just different boards and monoblocks. I was never able to confirm a parallel plexi block that would work for 80mm spacing between my cards thats compatible with these blocks. I could have sworn I read somewhere that certain FC bridge adapters only work with certain EK GPU blocks. Forgive my ignorance but is the reason for the inversion of the block so you can have the inlet on the bottom coming from the basement passthrough?


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> parallel:
> 
> 
> 
> serial:


Thank you! parallel it will be


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> I'm not sure I understand your question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to have :
> - 2 GPU blocks EK-FC 1080 GTX Ti - Nickel
> - 1 bridge to connect them : EK-FC Terminal Dual Parallel 3-slots (60.9mm)
> - I indeed plan to have a Motherboard block EK-FB Asus X99 Monoblock - Nickel
> 
> I only need to invert the bridge connection. I intend to connect the mobo block as recommanded on the block manual, ie using the rightmost port as the inline (the one just on top of the CPU)
> 
> My loop would thus be :
> Res > Pump > Bridge (via bottom right port inlet, and outlet via top left port) > mobo block (inlet via rightmost port, outlet via leftmost port) > rad > rad > rad > flow sensor > Res


That loop order will be fine









I just wanted to make sure that you would go from the top outlet of the GPU Bridge to the inlet of the monoblock.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Seems we have the same setup and questions. Just different boards and monoblocks. I was never able to confirm a parallel plexi block that would work for 80mm spacing between my cards thats compatible with these blocks. I could have sworn I read somewhere that certain FC bridge adapters only work with certain EK GPU blocks. Forgive my ignorance but is the reason for the inversion of the block so you can have the inlet on the bottom coming from the basement passthrough?


You will need a Triple bridge with a blank for the middle connection.

So, you will need these 2 items :

EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Parallel - Plexi

EK-FC Terminal BLANK Parallel


----------



## elbeasto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheParisHeaton*
> 
> update.


Nice build.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Seems we have the same setup and questions. Just different boards and monoblocks. I was never able to confirm a parallel plexi block that would work for 80mm spacing between my cards thats compatible with these blocks. I could have sworn I read somewhere that certain FC bridge adapters only work with certain EK GPU blocks. Forgive my ignorance but is the reason for the inversion of the block so you can have the inlet on the bottom coming from the basement passthrough?


I have an SMA8, and my pump will be in the lower chamber. a way that minimizes tubes is to have a good circle around the case, so I need to start with the GPU given the position of the other elements.
Since the pump is below, reaching first the side inlet is much nicer than having to go up top, get out on the side, and go up again to go to the CPU/Mobo block

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> That loop order will be fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just wanted to make sure that you would go from the top outlet of the GPU Bridge to the inlet of the monoblock.


thanks for confirming. As you are an EKWB rep, I guess it could be good feedback to give about a doc update for those components. This is a popular question (based on my searches), and not answered on your site. Reading the GPU block docs, it does say any port can be used as inlet or outlet, but since the terminal doc is so peremptive about which should be the inlet / outlet, it really casts the shadow of a doubt.

Thanks for the check as well, being my first loop I could indeed have gone wrong.

Just went with a massive order on EKWB, looking forward to the 2 GPU blocks + backplates, terminal, Mobo block, dual pump top, and a ton of fittings, adapters, etc...(basically apart from the pumps, the res and the rads, I went full EK)


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> I have an SMA8, and my pump will be in the lower chamber. a way that minimizes tubes is to have a good circle around the case, so I need to start with the GPU given the position of the other elements.
> Since the pump is below, reaching first the side inlet is much nicer than having to go up top, get out on the side, and go up again to go to the CPU/Mobo block
> thanks for confirming. As you are an EKWB rep, I guess it could be good feedback to give about a doc update for those components. This is a popular question (based on my searches), and not answered on your site. Reading the GPU block docs, it does say any port can be used as inlet or outlet, but since the terminal doc is so peremptive about which should be the inlet / outlet, it really casts the shadow of a doubt.
> 
> Thanks for the check as well, being my first loop I could indeed have gone wrong.
> 
> Just went with a massive order on EKWB, looking forward to the 2 GPU blocks + backplates, terminal, Mobo block, dual pump top, and a ton of fittings, adapters, etc...(basically apart from the pumps, the res and the rads, I went full EK)


Enjoy your SMA8 build. This is my first one as well and I'm glad I waited for it! Caselabs is second to none IMO.
Now i'm having doubts about keeping the 1080ti logo'd terminals on the blocks and swapping em out for the plexi FC terminals









Keep my posted on your build. I'm learning quite a bit looking at similar SMA8 loops.


----------



## zeroibis

So yesterday I finally flushed out that 280 rad I mentioned a few weeks back. Compared to the 360 rad which had only a little but of stuff come out it was like a never ending pit of crap from the 280. I used 2 gal of distilled and spend about 3 hours just shaking it. I would put a bit in and shake it up and pour it out and get stuff in every singe pour. Obviously, there was less and less each time but even after what the 30th flush and having run it on a pump with a 10micron filter for a few hours I was still seeing stuff coming out.

After another hour of flushing I finally got to the point where each pour I would only get 1-3 black flakes then in the last 5 pours I was down to 1 flake per shacking session I finally called it quits. There is a point where you can only do so much. I figure since I am going to have the ports facing upright that should stop anything else from coming out of there if I am lucky.

As for how I could see stuff I made pours over a fresh paper towel so I could see anything that came out.









Oh I also cleaned rads with hot distilled water. I heated up the distilled via a double boiler in that I boiled tap water to heat up a beaker of distilled on the stove, I did not heat distilled to boiling because I did not want it to be too hot. I used this method for 1.5L of hot water flushing. I also did shaking and pouring with the hot water to help get any crap out.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> So yesterday I finally flushed out that 280 rad I mentioned a few weeks back. Compared to the 360 rad which had only a little but of stuff come out it was like a never ending pit of crap from the 280. I used 2 gal of distilled and spend about 3 hours just shaking it. I would put a bit in and shake it up and pour it out and get stuff in every singe pour. Obviously, there was less and less each time but even after what the 30th flush and having run it on a pump with a 10micron filter for a few hours I was still seeing stuff coming out.
> 
> After another hour of flushing I finally got to the point where each pour I would only get 1-3 black flakes then in the last 5 pours I was down to 1 flake per shacking session I finally called it quits. There is a point where you can only do so much. I figure since I am going to have the ports facing upright that should stop anything else from coming out of there if I am lucky.
> 
> As for how I could see stuff I made pours over a fresh paper towel so I could see anything that came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh I also cleaned rads with hot distilled water. I heated up the distilled via a double boiler in that I boiled tap water to heat up a beaker of distilled on the stove, I did not heat distilled to boiling because I did not want it to be too hot. I used this method for 1.5L of hot water flushing. I also did shaking and pouring with the hot water to help get any crap out.


Have you considered using the mayhem blitz kit? I've heard it does well for this exact sort of thing. I plan on using it with my HWlabs black ice RADS when they come in.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> So yesterday I finally flushed out that 280 rad I mentioned a few weeks back. Compared to the 360 rad which had only a little but of stuff come out it was like a never ending pit of crap from the 280. I used 2 gal of distilled and spend about 3 hours just shaking it. I would put a bit in and shake it up and pour it out and get stuff in every singe pour. Obviously, there was less and less each time but even after what the 30th flush and having run it on a pump with a 10micron filter for a few hours I was still seeing stuff coming out.
> 
> After another hour of flushing I finally got to the point where each pour I would only get 1-3 black flakes then in the last 5 pours I was down to 1 flake per shacking session I finally called it quits. There is a point where you can only do so much. I figure since I am going to have the ports facing upright that should stop anything else from coming out of there if I am lucky.
> 
> As for how I could see stuff I made pours over a fresh paper towel so I could see anything that came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh I also cleaned rads with hot distilled water. I heated up the distilled via a double boiler in that I boiled tap water to heat up a beaker of distilled on the stove, I did not heat distilled to boiling because I did not want it to be too hot. I used this method for 1.5L of hot water flushing. I also did shaking and pouring with the hot water to help get any crap out.


Are both rads ek? Reason I ask, I just recently bought a ek pe 360 and when I went to flush using the same method you did, nothing came out. I later found out through here, that newer ek rads have tended to cone pretty clean from the factory. Not so much the case with some other brands.


----------



## becks

Little update...as most know from couple of pages back I had some problems with an EK XE rad that had almost half of its paint peel off after I washed it.
Many blamed me for using Vinegar to clean it inside and *presumed* I poured it onto the radiator which caused the paint to peel off (no burn, wrinkle or discoloured paint on the radiator could be seen in the pictures...it just peeled away...clean...)
Now...I used Vinegar as EK is suggesting to do that on their own website...and I have always used it with no problem up to that point...
I had my XE replaced after much fuss and received the new one.
This time around I did not used Vinegar to flush it on the inside...instead I used a brand (I won't name here) which most of you praise up and down....and now, less than 2 weeks after installing the new radiator I have growth in my tubes..nice, healthy growth...(Using only EK-CryoFuel in the loop, no tap water or distilled water..pure EK-CryoFuel clear)

Will post pictures tomorrow..
Conclusion..I will stick to my Vinegar even if I have to *supposedly* paint every single radiator I flush.

N.B. Ek... you have a terrible paint job on the radiators and even if I sneeze there's a good chance a flake of paint will fly off the radiator. Please provide on your web-shop 100 ml bottles of radiator paint as I'm on the 4th can and still have no 100% match.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Little update...as most know from couple of pages back I had some problems with an EK XE rad that had almost half of its paint peel off after I washed it.
> Many blamed me for using Vinegar to clean it inside and *presumed* I poured it onto the radiator which caused the paint to peel off (no burn, wrinkle or discoloured paint on the radiator could be seen in the pictures...it just peeled away...clean...)
> Now...I used Vinegar as EK is suggesting to do that on their own website...and I have always used it with no problem up to that point...
> I had my XE replaced after much fuss and received the new one.
> This time around I did not used Vinegar to flush it on the inside...instead I used a brand (I won't name here) which most of you praise up and down....and now, less than 2 weeks after installing the new radiator I have growth in my tubes..nice, healthy growth...(Using only EK-CryoFuel in the loop, no tap water or distilled water..pure EK-CryoFuel clear)
> 
> Will post pictures tomorrow..
> Conclusion..I will stick to my Vinegar even if I have to *supposedly* paint every single radiator I flush.
> 
> N.B. Ek... you have a terrible paint job on the radiators and even if I sneeze there's a good chance a flake of paint will fly off the radiator. Please provide on your web-shop 100 ml bottles of radiator paint as I'm on the 4th can and still have no 100% match.


Vinegar shouldn't react with paint even when not diluted thats why people use vinegar as a cleaning solution....what it heavily reacts with is concrete and stone. At worst it will dull paint with clear coat in fact people use it to remove wax on cars....I have always used vinegar to flush my rads and I do a heavy concetrate


----------



## Phaedrus89

Are you using PETG ?


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*


Exactly what I tough and did, and used it for years for many other cleaning job...In the post above I just stated what I was told here, couple of pages back.
The masses almost trowed stones at me lol....

No chemical solution will do it like vinegar, you simple can't go wrong with it...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*


It's not PETG, its EK-DuraClear soft tubing (PVC)

EDIT:


Spoiler: Pics for Show!






This is a new EK limited product...the Golden not plated CPU block


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Little update...as most know from couple of pages back I had some problems with an EK XE rad that had almost half of its paint peel off after I washed it.
> Many blamed me for using Vinegar to clean it inside and *presumed* I poured it onto the radiator which caused the paint to peel off (no burn, wrinkle or discoloured paint on the radiator could be seen in the pictures...it just peeled away...clean...)
> Now...I used Vinegar as EK is suggesting to do that on their own website...and I have always used it with no problem up to that point...
> I had my XE replaced after much fuss and received the new one.
> This time around I did not used Vinegar to flush it on the inside...instead I used a brand (I won't name here) which most of you praise up and down....and now, less than 2 weeks after installing the new radiator I have growth in my tubes..nice, healthy growth...(Using only EK-CryoFuel in the loop, no tap water or distilled water..pure EK-CryoFuel clear)
> 
> Will post pictures tomorrow..
> Conclusion..I will stick to my Vinegar even if I have to *supposedly* paint every single radiator I flush.
> 
> N.B. Ek... you have a terrible paint job on the radiators and even if I sneeze there's a good chance a flake of paint will fly off the radiator. Please provide on your web-shop 100 ml bottles of radiator paint as I'm on the 4th can and still have no 100% match.


I don't think anyone who knew what they were talking about blamed the viniger







EKs quality is dropping rapidly and the fanbois are rushing to their rescue.

Having crap grow in loops is the reason I still use off the shelf 50/50 ethylene glycole based automotive coolants. It doesn't work as well as straight water, but I never have to worry about growth or corrosion.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Exactly what I tough and did, and used it for years for many other cleaning job...In the post above I just stated what I was told here, couple of pages back.
> The masses almost trowed stones at me lol....
> 
> No chemical solution will do it like vinegar, you simple can't go wrong with it...
> It's not PETG, its EK-DuraClear soft tubing (PVC)
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics for Show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a new EK limited product...the Golden not plated CPU block


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> I don't think anyone who knew what they were talking about blamed the viniger
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EKs quality is dropping rapidly and the fanbois are rushing to their rescue.
> 
> Having crap grow in loops is the reason I still use off the shelf 50/50 ethylene glycole based automotive coolants. It doesn't work as well as straight water, but I never have to worry about growth or corrosion.


Thats really disappointing to hear. EK's blocks are wonderful. I was considering these exact EK rads. Looks like HWlabs's SR2 Rads it is. Hopefully I wont have any difficulties with these...


----------



## hadesfactor

I prefer other rads so I've never encountered this issue but it seems like a pretty easy fix for them. The prob need to use a better primer like a good self-etching primer. It sounds like the paint isn't sticking to the metal. Im still fan boy of their blocks but a realest as well. Not all companies are perfect all of the time and its really a measure of how they fix their issues. Every company in every industry has had a problem at some point just hopefully EK recognizes this is an issue and fixes it.


----------



## zeroibis

The rads I am using are the EK-RAD-PE-360 and EK-RAD-CE-280. It was the EK-RAD-CE-280 that had a lot of crap come out and both of the rads are new.


----------



## hadesfactor

Almost every company's rads are gonna have stuff come out thats why its imperative to flush em before you use em. Even when a company states that they pre flush their rads before sale i still do it. My nexxxos rads needed 3 rinses with vinegar/hot water and 2 final flushes with distilled to get all of the crap out. Then the final flush is after i leak test for half a day. The stuff coming out is solder and flux from the manufacturing proccess


----------



## becks

Anyhow, no worries boys. I got it covered...
Doing a blood sacrifice this weekend to the PC gods and everything will turn tits up and be going in no time

I shall kill an old mouse and bury its guts into the case


----------



## war4peace

Being a lazy bum I never flush my new radiators. So far so good, I must be lucky


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Being a lazy bum I never flush my new radiators. So far so good, I must be lucky


La romani rezista mai bine









Translate: Romanians are more resilient it seems


----------



## vvv850

Sorry, couldn't rezist.


----------



## Papa Emeritus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Being a lazy bum I never flush my new radiators. So far so good, I must be lucky


That's the first thing i do when buying new rads, and suggests everyone else to do aswell







Brands like EK & Alphacool are from my experience so dirty that they require a mandatory clean. The cleanest i've seen to date has been the Mayhems rads.


----------



## war4peace

I don't know, I have 2x EK XE360 and the clear liquid was very clean; the Pastel Black didn't leave any residue when I filtered part of it out of curiosity and the Pastel White I am using right now is pristine.
Again... I don't recommend anyone NOT to flush their rads, just saying I was lucky, perhaps. And a bit crazy for attempting that


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I don't know, I have 2x EK XE360 and the clear liquid was very clean; the Pastel Black didn't leave any residue when I filtered part of it out of curiosity and the Pastel White I am using right now is pristine.
> Again... I don't recommend anyone NOT to flush their rads, just saying I was lucky, perhaps. And a bit crazy for attempting that


HA! I actually had a huge inner debate that had me talking to myself while walking in circles for almost 4 hrs on whether or not I was too lazy to do it then I realized how much time I wasted with my incoherent ramblings to myself and just did it...glad I did tho because there were definitely things floating in the flush


----------



## Phaedrus89

I don't want to risk my luck with Pastel white. Mandatory blitz bath for both HWL SR2 rads when they come in this weekend.


----------



## war4peace

I actually do have Pastel White in my loop right now. Did flush the old radiator to get rid of the previous Pastel Black, but used a gallon of distilled water, nothing else.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I actually do have Pastel White in my loop right now. Did flush the old radiator to get rid of the previous Pastel Black, but used a gallon of distilled water, nothing else.


Mayhem or Icedragon? Acrylic or PETG? I've been reading nothing but horror stories about pastel and stained tubing and clogged blocks. Decided on acrylic to avoid any chemical interactions.


----------



## war4peace

Mayhems and soft tubing. It looks awesome. Too bad the build is destroyed by my horrible cable management skills


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Mayhems and soft tubing. It looks awesome. Too bad the build is destroyed by my horrible cable management skills


Glad you haven't had any issues!


----------



## whitrzac

My fc1080 came with metal plugs, but the parallel block I bought a month ago didn't


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing a new RGB monoblock for MSI® X299 motherboards


----------



## Safetytrousers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Being a lazy bum I never flush my new radiators. So far so good, I must be lucky


It says on the boxes that my rads are ready to go and don't need flushing. I did give them a good swill with pure water anyway and it drained out as clear as it went it. The boxes for my two rads, at least in my case, were right.


----------



## jura11

Hi guys

I have question or if someone can do favour for me

I'm building loop for my brother and I lost one EK LGA-2011 M4 threaded mounting stud, have everything for loop prepared but I lost this stud and buying whole EK-Supremacy PreciseMount doesn't make sense right now

If someone have this as spare or doesn't need that I would be very grateful and appreciated if he could send me this,I will pay for postage off course

Thanks for any help, Jura


----------



## CapKrunch

Hi, FYI my english isn't perfect, so, please bear with me,

I'm working on my case and redo the custom water loop in my system and I have EK-WB reservoir/pump combo which is EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM. I wonder if that reservoir/pump combo can laid in horizon instead of stand in vertical? I would like to put the reservoir/pump combo under the gpu in my Corsair Air 540 case. If have any suggestion or whatever. Please feel free to share.

Thanks

This is what I'm working on.


----------



## emsj86

Yes it can lay on its side


----------



## war4peace

The reservoir's final place can be in any orientation, just make sure it feeds the pump and in case you need to refill with a bit of liquid it is easy to do so.


----------



## CapKrunch

awesome Thanks


----------



## Phaedrus89

Anyone else get an M.2 Heatsink?

Couple of things I noticed with a 960 Pro
The clips really sandwich the heck out of drive between the two plates and thermal pads. Seemed almost excessive...
The weight and rigidity of the heatsink requires that you slide the M.2 in rather than a SODIMM in a laptop.
Lastly, where does one find a screw long enough to secure it to the board. Not that it REALLY needs it with the weight of the drive alone snug right behind the GPU on the board.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Anyone else get an M.2 Heatsink?
> 
> Couple of things I noticed with a 960 Pro
> The clips really sandwich the heck out of drive between the two plates and thermal pads. Seemed almost excessive...
> The weight and rigidity of the heatsink requires that you slide the M.2 in rather than a SODIMM in a laptop.
> Lastly, where does one find a screw long enough to secure it to the board. Not that it REALLY needs it with the weight of the drive alone snug right behind the GPU on the board.


I got mine today, I have the Plextor but Im sure the thickness is the same if it's single sided (I think they all are) I have an Asus mobo so mine is vertical and it comes with the plastic snap thing that secures it to the vertical mount


----------



## DarthBaggins

I still need to install mine, also need to put my custom badge in it


----------



## nyk20z3

EK Apex monoblock installed -


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Anyone else get an M.2 Heatsink?
> 
> Couple of things I noticed with a 960 Pro
> The clips really sandwich the heck out of drive between the two plates and thermal pads. Seemed almost excessive...
> The weight and rigidity of the heatsink requires that you slide the M.2 in rather than a SODIMM in a laptop.
> Lastly, where does one find a screw long enough to secure it to the board. Not that it REALLY needs it with the weight of the drive alone snug right behind the GPU on the board.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You're supposed to re-use the screw provided with your motherboard


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You're supposed to re-use the screw provided with your motherboard


Scratch my previous statement regarding mounting.

Upon closer inspection the top heatsink was just a fraction of a mm misaligned preventing me from fitting the head of the screw down in the cutout area to secure it to the bottom heatsink.


----------



## elderan

I really want EK to make a mono RGB block for this. I am most likely going to upgrade form my 7700k to a 7900x but I am waiting for this motherboard to come out.

https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-RAMPAGE-VI-EXTREME/


----------



## elderan

I am really happy with the EK-XTOP Revo D5s in my recent build. Also used the EK video card blocks as well.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elderan*
> 
> I really want EK to make a mono RGB block for this. I am most likely going to upgrade form my 7700k to a 7900x but I am waiting for this motherboard to come out.
> 
> https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-RAMPAGE-VI-EXTREME/


Since we're in the "wish" zone... I would really, really REALLY like a plexi version of this.
I guess they don't make a transparent version because the volute innards are a trade secret?


----------



## elderan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Since we're in the "wish" zone... I would really, really REALLY like a plexi version of this.
> I guess they don't make a transparent version because the volute innards are a trade secret?


I actually had that pump on my last build and loved it. But you are right, no way I could have used it in an open build like this. It just looked too plain for something like this.


----------



## war4peace

Yeah... I do have that volute and looking inside my PC I see a big black cylinder, it makes me sad.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I don't remember if this had been answered/ asked, but is their plans of a block/backplate in the works for the 1080 Ti KingPin cards? @akira749


----------



## lever2stacks

I had an o-ring tear on my fc1080 gtx block it's 15×1mm. can I get one locally at a hardware store or do I have to get a specific type of o-ring. That's if a local hardware store carries the size.

Thanks

Lever


----------



## becks

Hey guys, maybe you can help me decide with couple of things ...

So first things first: If you had a Blood Red Pastel in your loop with what led would you go to illuminate GPU / CPU Block (Pre drilled 3mm holes) and Reservoir (Plugs with 5mm holes) Red or White ?

I thought about going with bright red and than using double white-UV lights on the case...

Any advice appreciated


----------



## iamjanco

Me thinks EK needs to send a memo to whoever is maintaining their online store:



Not that I have nor want a Rampage V E10 board, mind you. Just the results of testing done in the latest versions of Firefox and Chrome after ensuring both browsers' caches were wiped by CCleaner, from the USA. I was going to order the block for the FTW3, but, well you know.

With discount applied, and shipping by "DPD Express" to the USA.


----------



## Jubijub

ewwww, US prices are quite expensive... (but then again it's rare enough, normally it's us european getting tricked with dubious exchange rates







)

As for the price display, this is indeed super weird, I cannot find any calculation that justify these numbers.


----------



## iamjanco

I suspect it has something to do with needing to be logged in for pricing and locale to be set properly. There's a message about that in the top, right-hand currency dropdown that reads "login to update the currency setting for your country," as well as a message that states "Currency region is locked."

Though the site can figure out what part of the world I reside in and display proper product prices in the storefront, it probably can't adjust prices reflected in the checkout window accordingly because of that. Then there's also the addition of the "Eurotax," which could be misleading to many potential, non-European customers.

I don't have an account with EK, so I didn't push it any further than that. It's what we in the web development world might call a usability issue, though more examination would be required before actually categorizing it as such.

Btw, EK, *it's "log into" or "log in to,"* not "login to." "Sign in" might even be better.


----------



## Jubijub

in EU tax system is much easier, using for any type of good you have only one VAT rate applicable, as opposed to the US where it's almost county dependant (I used to be the IT manager of a large eCom website, US has been one of our hardest deployment as a result. The absolut champion of tax crazyiness is brazil, where tax is dependant not only on the state of the resident, but also on the "shipping"state







)


----------



## tistou77

Hello

For the Rampage VI Extreme and Apex (X299), you have not planned waterblock "MB Fullboard" ?

Thanks


----------



## iamjanco

In the interest of fairness, I'm wondering if EK has an explanation for what follows (the first screen capture is cached, the other is what currently displays):


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> In the interest of fairness, I'm wondering if EK has an explanation for what follows (the first screen capture is cached, the other is what currently displays):


I encountered this issue before EK updated the warning.

It's 100% EVGA manufacturing fault as not all of the screw hole from that part suffer from this issue. The original backplate screws (all of them) are thinner and so they fit through every hole.

If you remove the backplate you will see that the holes are uneven on the sticker part.

You can fix that by taking the part off, putting an ek screw in and tightening until the newly created threads on the backplate are stripped.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> I encountered this issue before EK updated the warning.
> 
> It's 100% EVGA manufacturing fault as not all of the screw hole from that part suffer from this issue. The original backplate screws (all of them) are thinner and so they fit through every hole.
> 
> If you remove the backplate you will see that the holes are uneven on the sticker part.
> 
> You can fix that by taking the part off, putting an ek screw in and tightening until the newly created threads on the backplate are stripped.


Thanks for that information. Are you speaking for EK?


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Thanks for that information. Are you speaking for EK?


As a client that has encountered the issue you mentioned. If I was speaking on behalf of any company I wouldn't have proposed that solution and I would have mentioned it.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> As a client that has encountered the issue you mentioned. If I was speaking on behalf of any company I wouldn't have proposed that solution and I would have mentioned it.


Again, thanks for the clarification. While I don't doubt your recommended workaround would work, it's probably best if both EVGA and EK have the opportunity to speak to the issue. In the interest of transparency, that is.

Edited: I probably should also mention that I do own two FTW3 cards, EK blocks for them, and two EK backplates as well. There is no need to modify the oem backplates in my case.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Again, thanks for the clarification. While I don't doubt your recommended workaround would work, it's probably best if both EVGA and EK have the opportunity to speak to the issue. In the interest of transparency, that is.
> 
> Edited: I probably should also mention that I do own two FTW3 cards, EK blocks for them, and two EK backplates as well. There is no need to modify the oem backplates in my case.


Here are some of the replies of EK technical people to me as I was one of the people who raised this concern insistingly:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Hello Kevin,

Let me just jump in on the subject.

There is no physical damage done to the backplate by driving the screw through

a hole that is already there. You are not altering the backplate nor you are drilling

new holes. The backplate is compatible because no modifications are necessary

to be made to fit the stock backplate with the EK water block.

I cannot judge what EVGA technical support told you, but if you don't void the warranty

by removing the stock heatsink, removing the thermal paste, removing all the stock thermal pads,

and putting on an aftermarket water block&#8230; then you should not void the warranty by using the

holes that are already there. I was doing the photography for the water block,

I mounted the backplate several times, and I have done it by using just a Philips head screwdriver.
Yes, the screw does not slip into the hole, but it can we very easily screwed in.

For now, we will not remove the compatibility but thank you for your concern.

BR,

Atila





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Hello Kevin,
here are the caliper measurements.
So our M2.5 screw measures 2.42mm.
The hole where we have driven the water block M2.5 screw through is 2.46mm
A hole on the backplate which through we didnt drive a screw through is 2.41mm.
So the damage the screw driven through the backplate does is a 0.05mm bigger hole.
The measurements might not be the most accurate but still, I hope i presents
how little "damage" is being done to the backplate by driving the M2.5 screw through it.
BR,
Atila



So the "workaround" of a @vvv850 is apparently the same recommendation directly from EK. I, myself, don't want to call that as a solution. I agree that EVGA is to be blamed with the screw hole variation but EK should have noted that the very first time around.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Here are some of the replies of EK technical people to me as I was one of the people who raised this concern insistingly:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hello Kevin,
> Let me just jump in on the subject.
> There is no physical damage done to the backplate by driving the screw through
> a hole that is already there. You are not altering the backplate nor you are drilling
> new holes. The backplate is compatible because no modifications are necessary
> to be made to fit the stock backplate with the EK water block.
> I cannot judge what EVGA technical support told you, but if you don't void the warranty
> by removing the stock heatsink, removing the thermal paste, removing all the stock thermal pads,
> and putting on an aftermarket water block&#8230; then you should not void the warranty by using the
> holes that are already there. I was doing the photography for the water block,
> I mounted the backplate several times, and I have done it by using just a Philips head screwdriver.
> 
> Yes, the screw does not slip into the hole, but it can we very easily screwed in.
> For now, we will not remove the compatibility but thank you for your concern.
> BR,
> 
> Atila
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hello Kevin,
> 
> here are the caliper measurements.
> 
> So our M2.5 screw measures 2.42mm.
> 
> The hole where we have driven the water block M2.5 screw through is 2.46mm
> 
> A hole on the backplate which through we didnt drive a screw through is 2.41mm.
> 
> So the damage the screw driven through the backplate does is a 0.05mm bigger hole.
> 
> The measurements might not be the most accurate but still, I hope i presents
> 
> how little "damage" is being done to the backplate by driving the M2.5 screw through it.
> 
> BR,
> 
> Atila
> 
> 
> 
> So the "workaround" of a @vvv850
> is apparently the same recommendation directly from EK. I, myself, don't want to call that as a solution. I agree that EVGA is to be blamed with the screw hole variation but EK should have noted that the very first time around.


No it's not a proper solution, but instead of sending back the card or block I preferred to do it this way. The thing is, if you do not strip the newly created threads in the backplate then you won't be able to tighten the block properly and evenly because you will have two threads on two separate parts. Once the screw reaches it's limit on one thread, it stops.

@iamjanco did you use the OEM backplate or the EK ones?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> No it's not a proper solution, but instead of sending back the card or block I preferred to do it this way. The thing is, if you do not strip the newly created threads in the backplate then you won't be able to tighten the block properly and evenly because you will have two threads on two separate parts. Once the screw reaches it's limit on one thread, it stops.
> 
> @iamjanco did you use the OEM backplate or the EK ones?


Right. And when you do remove the backplate where the serial sticker is and drive the EK screws through its screw holes, you don't risk losing any of the threads, right?

But then the problem with that is when you decide to sell the card in its stock from and since the EVGA screws are thinner then they won't thread back into their original screw holes because the holes are now bigger. Is my understanding accurate?


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Right. And when you do remove the backplate where the serial sticker is and drive the EK screws through its screw holes, you don't risk losing any of the threads, right?
> 
> But then the problem with that is when you decide to sell the card in its stock from and since the EVGA screws are thinner then they won't thread back into their original screw holes because the holes are now bigger. Is my understanding accurate?


The backplate does not have any threads. Only holes. What you do is enlarge those holes as some are not properly drilled from the factory. My solution for enlarging them is by using the EK screw to create and then strip the threads. The screws are harder then the backplate.

The backplate is held by screws threaded in the air cooler or water block.

Because the OEM screws are thinner, the poor tolerance in manufacturing does not affect them.

Even after widening the holes, you can bring your card back to stock for RMA or reselling. You do not damage anything, you just bring the holes to the same diameter.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> @iamjanco did you use the OEM backplate or the EK ones?


I have the parts in hand, I have not assembled them yet. I also agree that the workaround you described for those wanting to use the oem backplate suffices. My concern here is more inline with the case where those proceeding with the workaround later find at some later date that they need warranty support for their cards for whatever reasons. From what I've gathered, EVGA is typically one of the better oems to deal with in these regards.

That said, that question still remains (whether or not EVGA will honor warranty replacements where said screw holes have been adapted to work with the EK water blocks).

My interests also lie in brand identity and everything associated with it, as that's a subset of what I do for work on a regular basis. The fact that neither EVGA nor EK have publicly acknowledged the issue yet (e.g., as in one or the other or both dropped the ball) as well as publicly provided a resolution to the issue acceptable by both companies to those who purchased the water block prior to the change in the information on EK's web site doesn't necessarily speak ill of either EK nor EVGA, but it can result in lowered consumer confidence.

Note: by resolution above, I'm referring to something like "we, EK and EVGA, are aware of the issue with the one screw hole, and EVGA is okay with it if you need to modify that one backplate hole. Your warranty will still be covered."

Such a statement might help alleviate concerns on the parts of consumers worried about whether the modification has any impact on warranty or resale value.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I don't remember if this had been answered/ asked, but is their plans of a block/backplate in the works for the 1080 Ti KingPin cards? @akira749


I'm not sure we will but i'll check it out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> I had an o-ring tear on my fc1080 gtx block it's 15×1mm. can I get one locally at a hardware store or do I have to get a specific type of o-ring. That's if a local hardware store carries the size.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Lever
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If you can find one locally it's fine. If you can't.....http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-cpu-blocks/ek-fc-terminal-o-ring-15x1mm.html









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> For the Rampage VI Extreme and Apex (X299), you have not planned waterblock "MB Fullboard" ?
> 
> Thanks


No Fullboard, but we'll have monoblocks.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elderan*
> 
> I really want EK to make a mono RGB block for this. I am most likely going to upgrade form my 7700k to a 7900x but I am waiting for this motherboard to come out.
> 
> https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-RAMPAGE-VI-EXTREME/


We'll have one.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> I have the parts in hand, I have not assembled them yet. I also agree that the workaround you described for those wanting to use the oem backplate suffices. My concern here is more inline with the case where those proceeding with the workaround later find at some later date that they need warranty support for their cards for whatever reasons. From what I've gathered, EVGA is typically one of the better oems to deal with in these regards.
> 
> That said, that question still remains (whether or not EVGA will honor warranty replacements where said screw holes have been adapted to work with the EK water blocks).
> 
> My interests also lie in brand identity and everything associated with it, as that's a subset of what I do for work on a regular basis. The fact that neither EVGA nor EK have publicly acknowledged the issue yet (e.g., as in one or the other or both dropped the ball) as well as publicly provided a resolution to the issue acceptable by both companies to those who purchased the water block prior to the change in the information on EK's web site doesn't necessarily speak ill of either EK nor EVGA, but it can result in lowered consumer confidence.
> 
> Note: by resolution above, I'm referring to something like "we, EK and EVGA, are aware of the issue with the one screw hole, and EVGA is okay with it if you need to modify that one backplate hole. Your warranty will still be covered."
> 
> Such a statement might help alleviate concerns on the parts of consumers worried about whether the modification has any impact on warranty or resale value.


Since it's related to the warranty of your EVGA card, I think it would be better to ask EVGA directly. I don't have the information on this issue but i'm pretty sure EVGA will be better suited to help you out on this warranty matter than us.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> The backplate does not have any threads. Only holes. What you do is enlarge those holes as some are not properly drilled from the factory. My solution for enlarging them is by using the EK screw to create and then strip the threads. The screws are harder then the backplate.
> 
> The backplate is held by screws threaded in the air cooler or water block.
> 
> Because the OEM screws are thinner, the poor tolerance in manufacturing does not affect them.
> 
> Even after widening the holes, you can bring your card back to stock for RMA or reselling. You do not damage anything, you just bring the holes to the same diameter.


Ok, that makes more sense then. So the correct process is to remove the affected backplate and thread one EK screw "all the way" to the screw holes that will be used when the waterblock is installed, correct?

And if you had the choice of using the factory backplate and the EK backplate, which one would be a better choice? In terms of looks and performance that is.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> I have the parts in hand, I have not assembled them yet. I also agree that the workaround you described for those wanting to use the oem backplate suffices. My concern here is more inline with the case where those proceeding with the workaround later find at some later date that they need warranty support for their cards for whatever reasons. From what I've gathered, EVGA is typically one of the better oems to deal with in these regards.
> 
> That said, that question still remains (whether or not EVGA will honor warranty replacements where said screw holes have been adapted to work with the EK water blocks).
> 
> My interests also lie in brand identity and everything associated with it, as that's a subset of what I do for work on a regular basis. The fact that neither EVGA nor EK have publicly acknowledged the issue yet (e.g., as in one or the other or both dropped the ball) as well as publicly provided a resolution to the issue acceptable by both companies to those who purchased the water block prior to the change in the information on EK's web site doesn't necessarily speak ill of either EK nor EVGA, but it can result in lowered consumer confidence.
> 
> Note: by resolution above, I'm referring to something like "we, EK and EVGA, are aware of the issue with the one screw hole, and EVGA is okay with it if you need to modify that one backplate hole. Your warranty will still be covered."
> 
> Such a statement might help alleviate concerns on the parts of consumers worried about whether the modification has any impact on warranty or resale value.


I called EVGA a few days ago about this and they told me that the warranty will still be honored. It's just that if the backplate is damaged and is a part that is needed for repair (I doubt this) then you will have to pay a fee. In other words, they (of course) advise against it.

But judging from all the conundrum that we're talking about, I don't think there would be any damage at all.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Since it's related to the warranty of your EVGA card, I think it would be better to ask EVGA directly. I don't have the information on this issue but i'm pretty sure EVGA will be better suited to help you out on this warranty matter than us.


You may want to contact Roman Pust, Atila Gobor, Robert Gorsek, and Simon Sikovec of EK regarding this issue. They are fully aware of the issue and are the ones assisting me through email. You really have to contact EVGA and settle this once and for all.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Since it's related to the warranty of your EVGA card, I think it would be better to ask EVGA directly. I don't have the information on this issue but i'm pretty sure EVGA will be better suited to help you out on this warranty matter than us.


I realize that of course, but that still doesn't do anything for the customers who purchased the blocks prior to EK's update of the compatibility statement on their web site. For instance, what happens if one of those customers who has already enlarged that hole finds they need warranty service from EVGA and EVGA denies warranty service because they drilled that hole out? Is it EK's problem? EVGA's? Or the customer's?


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok, that makes more sense then. So the correct process is to remove the affected backplate and thread one EK screw "all the way" to the screw holes that will be used when the waterblock is installed, correct?
> 
> And if you had the choice of using the factory backplate and the EK backplate, which one would be a better choice? In terms of looks and performance that is.
> 
> I called EVGA a few days ago about this and they told me that the warranty will still be honored. It's just that if the backplate is damaged and is a part that is needed for repair (I doubt this) then you will have to pay a fee. But judging from all the conundrum that we're talking about, I don't think there would be any damage at all.
> 
> You may want to contact Roman Pust, Atila Gobor, Robert Gorsek, and Simon Sikovec of EK regarding this issue. They are fully aware of the issue and are the ones assisting me through email. You really have to contact EVGA and settle this once and for all.


Thanks for this additional info. A simple public acknowledgement by EVGA probably would suffice, perhaps followed by that acknowledgement added to EK's compatibility statement. From the standpoint of brand and consumer confidence, mind you.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok, that makes more sense then. So the correct process is to remove the affected backplate and thread one EK screw "all the way" to the screw holes that will be used when the waterblock is installed, correct?
> 
> And if you had the choice of using the factory backplate and the EK backplate, which one would be a better choice? In terms of looks and performance that is.


No. You remove the backplate and place an EK screw (the ones mentioned in the manual to be used in conjunction with the stock backplate) in the narrow hole from the backplate. You screw it creating threads. When the screw bottoms out, you continue screwing until you strip the newly created threads thus enlarging the hole. You then remove the screw, put the backplate back on, and place the screw back, tightening the backplate against the block (as in the manual).

If you do not enlarge the holes beforehand, you will unavoidably make a thread in the backplate. Then the screw will also enter the threads on the block. You will begin tightening it until it bottoms out but you will notice that the block is not making even contact. This is because the screw bottomed out on the backplate threads (which you created because of the smaller hole).

So, my advice is: if you see that the screw does not drop through the backplate and into the block, then you need to do the above.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Thanks for this additional info. A simple public acknowledgement by EVGA probably would suffice, perhaps followed by that acknowledgement added to EK's compatibility statement. From the standpoint of brand and consumer confidence, mind you.


EVGA, not like other VGA brands, have more permissive warranty terms. If something is not damaged by the user,( you can replace the cooler, tim and so on), and not void the warranty. That being said, I don't think they will issue any warnings or statements. They have the FTW3 in water cooled form and EK has their own back plate they want to sell.

I was happy to see that I could retain 30 bucks or so by keeping the OEM back plate on but that's about it.


----------



## lever2stacks

@akira749 I got some they will be here today thank you for the response.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> No. You remove the backplate and place an EK screw (the ones mentioned in the manual to be used in conjunction with the stock backplate) in the narrow hole from the backplate. You screw it creating threads. When the screw bottoms out, you continue screwing until you strip the newly created threads thus enlarging the hole. You then remove the screw, put the backplate back on, and place the screw back, tightening the backplate against the block (as in the manual).
> 
> If you do not enlarge the holes beforehand, you will unavoidably make a thread in the backplate. Then the screw will also enter the threads on the block. You will begin tightening it until it bottoms out but you will notice that the block is not making even contact. This is because the screw bottomed out on the backplate threads (which you created because of the smaller hole).
> 
> So, my advice is: if you see that the screw does not drop through the backplate and into the block, then you need to do the above.


I'm not too good with mechanical discussions so I have to ask some obvious noob questions (pardon me).

1) Does "bottom out" mean that the screw head is against the backplate?

2) How would continuing the screwing in process strip out the newly-created threads? Do you mean the screw head will be the one stripping the threads and eventually creating a larger hole that's equal in diameter as the head?


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No Fullboard, but we'll have monoblocks.


Ok, thanks
No block for the Mosfets either ?
Otherwise, I would look for another brand


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I'm not too good with mechanical discussions so I have to ask some obvious noob questions (pardon me).
> 
> 1) Does "bottom out" mean that the screw head is against the backplate?
> 
> 2) How would continuing the screwing in process strip out the newly-created threads? Do you mean the screw head will be the one stripping the threads and eventually creating a larger hole that's equal in diameter as the head?


1) basically yes. It means that if you continue tightening it, you will overtightened or strip the threads

2) the head remains there. The screw threads, being harder, will strip the threads in backplate once you apply enough force. You will eventually have a large enough hole so that it does not hinder the EK screw going in. The EK screw needs to contact the backplate only with the head not the body.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> 1) basically yes. It means that if you continue tightening it, you will overtightened or strip the threads
> 
> 2) the head remains there. The screw threads, being harder, will strip the threads in backplate once you apply enough force. You will eventually have a large enough hole so that it does not hinder the EK screw going in. The EK screw needs to contact the backplate only with the head not the body.


Ok, thanks. I think I know what you're saying. All along I thought that when you overtighten a screw you strip the thread of the screw and not the thread of the hole. It makes sense now that what's being stripped are the hole threads.

Which do you prefer between the factory backplate and EK backplate regardless of cost?


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok, thanks. I think I know what you're saying. All along I thought that when you overtighten a screw you strip the thread of the screw and not the thread of the hole. It makes sense now that what's being stripped are the hole threads.
> 
> Which do you prefer between the factory backplate and EK backplate regardless of cost?


In this case, yes. The backplate being aluminium and the screw, I believe steel. Also, the hole is not that tight so it gives rather easily.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Which do you prefer between the factory backplate and EK backplate regardless of cost?


I forgot to say, I prefer the stock one. Just because you can remove the screws without ever detaching the backplate (at least the one with the LED if you have the issue mentioned above). This way you avoid placing additional TIM.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> I forgot to say, I prefer the stock one. Just because you can remove the screws without ever detaching the backplate (at least the one with the LED if you have the issue mentioned above). This way you avoid placing additional TIM.


Why can't you do this with the EK backplate?

@iamjanco

I also filed an EVGA ticket at the same time I called them because I wanted to have what they said put in writing. And here's what I got (they replied just today):



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Hello,

Thank you for reaching out to us. EVGA has no issues with you removing the cooler to install a different cooler on the card. However, to get the full warranty we would need you to be able to restore to original factory condition. If installing the cooler were to make it so that the back plate is aesthetically damaged or the screws can no longer mount then it would void the warranty on the product. The warranty requires that it is possible to restore the card to full factory specification.

Regards,
EVGA



So at this point, I think EK really needs to coordinate with EVGA regarding if the warranty will still be intact if the workaround is applied.

@akira749

Do you understand the gravity of the situation here?


----------



## iamjanco

The way I see it EVGA has every right to insist that their card be returned to original factory condition for warranty replacement purposes. EVGA already goes the mile further by allowing its customers to remove parts to install a compatible water block, and wasn't the one to make the claim that an available block was fully compatible with their card or at least lead the consumer to think it was.

I'll not belabor the point any further, as I did purchase the additional backplates needed to avoid the fitment issue. I'll simply state that if the one screw hole is different on all oem backplates, the block manufacturer should have realized that before they started selling their product. Presenting any other argument in lieu of the changes they made to their compatibility statement after the fact not only feeds consumer mistrust, but substantiates the claims being made by those who relied on the information they were presented before making their purchases.

That said, a word of advice, Kevin. Order the EK block. If you don't wish to deal directly with EK anymore, PPCS has both the nickel and black versions in stock. Whether the right thing to do or not, it's a fraction of what you probably paid for the block and card combined, and it's just not worth losing any more sleep over.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> The way I see it EVGA has every right to insist that their card be returned to original factory condition for warranty replacement purposes. EVGA already goes the mile further by allowing its customers to remove parts to install a compatible water block, and wasn't the one to make the claim that an available block was fully compatible with their card or at least lead the consumer to think it was.
> 
> I'll not belabor the point any further, as I did purchase the additional backplates needed to avoid the fitment issue. I'll simply state that if the one screw hole is different on all oem backplates, the block manufacturer should have realized that before they started selling their product. Presenting any other argument in lieu of the changes they made to their compatibility statement after the fact not only feeds consumer mistrust, but substantiates the claims being made by those who relied on the information they were presented before making their purchases.
> 
> That said, a word of advice, Kevin. Order the EK block. If you don't wish to deal directly with EK anymore, PPCS has both the nickel and black versions in stock. Whether the right thing to do or not, it's a fraction of what you probably paid for the block and card combined, and it's just not worth losing any more sleep over.


I'm one of those people who bought the block before everyone realized this issue. And I was the one who pushed EK hard to get them to respond to this issue. When they acknowledged this potential problem (but insisting that it is really not an issue), they offered me a free backplate.

The block that I bought is still en route from the USA to the Philippines as I bought it from PPCS and got it shipped to a freight forwarder I use to ship all items to the Philippines. The EK backplate is also en route from Slovenia to the Philippines and will probably be here on the 27th.

So this is why I'm still asking all these questions. I'm still contemplating between using the factory backplate and EK backplate as I have a choice between the two.


----------



## whitrzac

How many posts have we had on the backplate screw hole tolerance?









A: enlarging the screw hole to fit EK's larger screw is not going to void your EVGA warranty unless you damage the card.
B: The enlarged hole should still be similarly sized to the other holes on the backplate and the original screw should still work in said hole.

Hole.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I'm one of those people who bought the block before everyone realized this issue. And I was the one who pushed EK hard to get them to respond to this issue. When they acknowledged this potential problem (but insisting that it is really not an issue), they offered me a free backplate.
> 
> The block that I bought is still en route from the USA to the Philippines as I bought it from PPCS and got it shipped to a freight forwarder I use to ship all items to the Philippines. The EK backplate is also en route from Slovenia to the Philippines and will probably be here on the 27th.
> 
> So this is why I'm still asking all these questions. I'm still contemplating between using the factory backplate and EK backplate as I have a choice between the two.


Ah, I see. The answer should be simple then: use the backplate EK is shipping you, or enlarge the hole in the oem backplate keeping in mind that doing so may void your warranty service should you ever need it. If you're looking for something more than that, whether satisfactory or not, EVGA has no obligation beyond what they've already told you. As for EK, they've tried to make good by shipping you a free backplate. If your argument is you might have ordered a different 1080ti had you known you couldn't use EVGA's FTW3 oem backplate with the EK block without enlarging that one hole (or not ordered the block itself), it's not EVGA who is at fault (contrary to what some have already implied). EVGA never said you could.

OTOH, given the late release of the FTW3, the timing of various events, the fact that a number of manufacturers may have stretched themselves a wee bit too far in getting their new products ready for Computex Taipei this year using the resources they had available, and the typically inevitable rush by pc "enthusiasts" to get their hands on the latest and greatest before those products are field tested (or sold out), it's possible caveat emptor may apply.

Life was so much simpler before the advent of, well, let's not go there. I might be branded a heretic if I did.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> The backplate does not have any threads. Only holes. What you do is enlarge those holes as some are not properly drilled from the factory. My solution for enlarging them is by using the EK screw to create and then strip the threads. The screws are harder then the backplate.
> 
> The backplate is held by screws threaded in the air cooler or water block.
> 
> Because the OEM screws are thinner, the poor tolerance in manufacturing does not affect them.
> 
> Even after widening the holes, you can bring your card back to stock for RMA or reselling. You do not damage anything, you just bring the holes to the same diameter.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, that makes more sense then. So the correct process is to remove the affected backplate and thread one EK screw "all the way" to the screw holes that will be used when the waterblock is installed, correct?
> 
> And if you had the choice of using the factory backplate and the EK backplate, which one would be a better choice? In terms of looks and performance that is.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> I have the parts in hand, I have not assembled them yet. I also agree that the workaround you described for those wanting to use the oem backplate suffices. My concern here is more inline with the case where those proceeding with the workaround later find at some later date that they need warranty support for their cards for whatever reasons. From what I've gathered, EVGA is typically one of the better oems to deal with in these regards.
> 
> That said, that question still remains (whether or not EVGA will honor warranty replacements where said screw holes have been adapted to work with the EK water blocks).
> 
> My interests also lie in brand identity and everything associated with it, as that's a subset of what I do for work on a regular basis. The fact that neither EVGA nor EK have publicly acknowledged the issue yet (e.g., as in one or the other or both dropped the ball) as well as publicly provided a resolution to the issue acceptable by both companies to those who purchased the water block prior to the change in the information on EK's web site doesn't necessarily speak ill of either EK nor EVGA, but it can result in lowered consumer confidence.
> 
> Note: by resolution above, I'm referring to something like "we, EK and EVGA, are aware of the issue with the one screw hole, and EVGA is okay with it if you need to modify that one backplate hole. Your warranty will still be covered."
> 
> Such a statement might help alleviate concerns on the parts of consumers worried about whether the modification has any impact on warranty or resale value.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I called EVGA a few days ago about this and they told me that the warranty will still be honored. It's just that if the backplate is damaged and is a part that is needed for repair (I doubt this) then you will have to pay a fee. In other words, they (of course) advise against it.
> 
> But judging from all the conundrum that we're talking about, I don't think there would be any damage at all.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Since it's related to the warranty of your EVGA card, I think it would be better to ask EVGA directly. I don't have the information on this issue but i'm pretty sure EVGA will be better suited to help you out on this warranty matter than us.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You may want to contact Roman Pust, Atila Gobor, Robert Gorsek, and Simon Sikovec of EK regarding this issue. They are fully aware of the issue and are the ones assisting me through email. You really have to contact EVGA and settle this once and for all.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Since it's related to the warranty of your EVGA card, I think it would be better to ask EVGA directly. I don't have the information on this issue but i'm pretty sure EVGA will be better suited to help you out on this warranty matter than us.
> 
> 
> 
> I realize that of course, but that still doesn't do anything for the customers who purchased the blocks prior to EK's update of the compatibility statement on their web site. For instance, what happens if one of those customers who has already enlarged that hole finds they need warranty service from EVGA and EVGA denies warranty service because they drilled that hole out? Is it EK's problem? EVGA's? Or the customer's?
Click to expand...

My answer is as is this

If you need a new backplate via warranty. You should have noticed already.

If you damage said backplate. You should not drop your card
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No Fullboard, but we'll have monoblocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, thanks
> No block for the Mosfets either ?
> Otherwise, I would look for another brand
Click to expand...

The monoblock also covers the mosfets.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> I forgot to say, I prefer the stock one. Just because you can remove the screws without ever detaching the backplate (at least the one with the LED if you have the issue mentioned above). This way you avoid placing additional TIM.
> 
> 
> 
> Why can't you do this with the EK backplate?
> 
> @iamjanco
> 
> I also filed an EVGA ticket at the same time I called them because I wanted to have what they said put in writing. And here's what I got (they replied just today):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Thank you for reaching out to us. EVGA has no issues with you removing the cooler to install a different cooler on the card. However, to get the full warranty we would need you to be able to restore to original factory condition. If installing the cooler were to make it so that the back plate is aesthetically damaged or the screws can no longer mount then it would void the warranty on the product. The warranty requires that it is possible to restore the card to full factory specification.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> EVGA
> 
> 
> 
> So at this point, I think EK really needs to coordinate with EVGA regarding if the warranty will still be intact if the workaround is applied.
> 
> @akira749
> 
> Do you understand the gravity of the situation here?
Click to expand...

Yes, there is none

As a Water cooler you have 2 choices. Take a risk, or don't.

It is not eks issue to deal with. It is yours. Period. They recieved a card. It worked fine. Others since have not. That is called a revision. Deal with it, sorry but true.

In most countries a manufacture can not void your warranty on the card if the backplate is changed, unless they can prove the changes caused the failure, not all. But most countries.

Either way.

Either take the risk, or don't. Your choice. Nothing should fall on either companies shoulders.


----------



## kevindd992002

Ok then. Thanks for the help.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The monoblock also covers the mosfets.


Yes I know but i want the MOS separated


----------



## Mega Man

imo those blocks are dead, from ek, unfortunately


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Yes I know but i want the MOS separated


Why have the MOS separated if its gonna be in the same loop anyways?


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Why have the MOS separated if its gonna be in the same loop anyways?


Because I already have the block CPU that I will not change
My rigid tubing is provided like this
The monoblock is not beautiful
......


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Because I already have the block CPU that I will not change
> My rigid tubing is provided like this
> The monoblock is not beautiful
> ......


got it...sorry thought you were looking for a block period....I personally like the monoblocks instead of having clutter by putting a mos block right next to the cpu block but everyone's taste is different that's what makes this obsession awesome


----------



## Mega Man

what doesnt - is the fact we have no choice :/


----------



## hadesfactor

That i agree with...maybe the mos blocks weren't selling as much as the monos when it all comes down to it it about the cash for every company...i know they do still sell one of their moss blocks would it be so hard to change the mounting plates?


----------



## JCArch

Hey all, does anyone know if EK are selling their badges separately anymore? I only see the thicker orange and silver badges, but can no longer find the ones that come standard on their products. If I recall correctly, you used to be able to buy them in a 5-pack similar to the ones that are currently available. I have some with scuffs that I'd like to replace.


----------



## emsj86

I'm so glad I do t have to do customer support sometimes. You got a free backplate. I'd be happy


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what doesnt - is the fact we have no choice :/


Ek could just sell the MOS block


----------



## Kommando Kodiak

Can you guys show me a the parts for a compression fit T line?


----------



## Kommando Kodiak

actually i think it found it http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-rotary-fitting-t-180-degree-water-cooling-accessory.html Yay or nay?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kommando Kodiak*
> 
> actually i think it found it http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-rotary-fitting-t-180-degree-water-cooling-accessory.html Yay or nay?


How much room do you have in your connection space? I have the 180* T straight from outlet theading to fitting. It's a really nice straight. The offset is for my 90* double male rotary to fold my S/O valve out of the way when not in use. I use the 180 for max flow rate off the pump.









~Ceadder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Ok, thanks
> No block for the Mosfets either ?
> Otherwise, I would look for another brand


Unfortunately no.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Hey all, does anyone know if EK are selling their badges separately anymore? I only see the thicker orange and silver badges, but can no longer find the ones that come standard on their products. If I recall correctly, you used to be able to buy them in a 5-pack similar to the ones that are currently available. I have some with scuffs that I'd like to replace.


We stopped selling them a while ago.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We stopped selling them a while ago.


Bummer, but thank you for the info!


----------



## akira749

EK releases new Vardar EVO fans with 0dB technology


----------



## becks

Just placed an order directly on EK website so expect some new Pics in the near future..
Have a hunch that there's something wrong with my preferred store storage so gave this a try...


----------



## utparatrooper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Scratch my previous statement regarding mounting.
> 
> Upon closer inspection the top heatsink was just a fraction of a mm misaligned preventing me from fitting the head of the screw down in the cutout area to secure it to the bottom heatsink.


I'm glad you posted your pics. I was uncertain on whether or not the height of the heatsink would be an issue and interfere with the graphics cards as I have the same board. Did you also use the backplate that came with the kit? As is, my 960 Pro is always running about low 50 degrees and would certainly like to bring that down. Thanks.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *utparatrooper*
> 
> I'm glad you posted your pics. I was uncertain on whether or not the height of the heatsink would be an issue and interfere with the graphics cards as I have the same board. Did you also use the backplate that came with the kit? As is, my 960 Pro is always running about low 50 degrees and would certainly like to bring that down. Thanks.


I did use the backplate that came with the kit. No modification needs to be made. it JUST fits beneath the 1080ti Founders EK block on the RVE10 board with a monoblock on the board as well. Just be sure you align your top and bottom heatsink correctly to allow the mounting screw the clearance to grab the bottom plate and hold it.


----------



## nyk20z3

EK Strix 1080 Ti Block and Back Plate installed -


----------



## utparatrooper

Thanks for the guidance. +1


----------



## BoredErica

Edit:

Wait, I think I know where my problem is.

BTW:
Apex vrm only blocks? For all Apex motherboards? Please?









I'd like to keep using my own CPU waterblock.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> BTW:
> 
> Apex vrm only blocks? For all Apex motherboards? Please?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to keep using my own CPU waterblock.


Only monoblock for X299


----------



## Jubijub

pictures will follow, but this has been EK day for me :
- 2x 1080Ti rad + backplate
- parallel terminal to link both
- SSD heatsink
- X99 Asus monoblock

VGA mounting has been pretty uneventful, except a few misleading pictures in the manual when it comes to screws. The terminal is really easy to mount, I'll wait to see if I mounted it right








Mounting that beasty assembly has been the challenge, as Asus makes it really hard with their self locking PCIe retainers, that are super hard to remove once engaged. The cards are so long they almost touch the heatsink of the X99 chipset, so I had to unmount the mobo to get access









SSD heatsink was OK, but it's crazy how hard one has to press to clip the damn thing, I was absolutely sure I would break the M2 stick in half, or crush it.

The X99 mounting experience was not so nice : the manual is gigantic turd when you have an X99 Deluxe *II* and not the one (which is probably not produced since at least a year)
- the manual doesn't say why the bolts are attached to the block and that you got to remove them. It's easy to see once you try to mount the rad but a mention could have been nice
- it doesn't say either to remove the existing standoffs...again, pretty obvious once you try, but a mention would be nice.
- when you remove the standoff, you discover there is a piece of plastic that fills the holes...so I went ahead and pierced through. Not sure why Asus put that, but again, a little mention in the manual would help
- the screw diagram is all wrong, but pretty easy to figure out

In the end nothing dangerous, but time wasted to double check everything because I couldn't trust the manual. Given the price, this could be perfected. Like a lot.

Other general remark : be more specific about the screws : the pouches contain on average 50% more screws than needed, with many sizes. And sometimes, 2 screw lengths will work the same...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Finally swapped out the badge on my m.2 heatsink.


----------



## Ceadderman

Love the badge DB.









~Ceadder


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> pictures will follow, but this has been EK day for me :
> - 2x 1080Ti rad + backplate
> - parallel terminal to link both
> - SSD heatsink
> - X99 Asus monoblock
> 
> VGA mounting has been pretty uneventful, except a few misleading pictures in the manual when it comes to screws. The terminal is really easy to mount, I'll wait to see if I mounted it right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounting that beasty assembly has been the challenge, as Asus makes it really hard with their self locking PCIe retainers, that are super hard to remove once engaged. The cards are so long they almost touch the heatsink of the X99 chipset, so I had to unmount the mobo to get access
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SSD heatsink was OK, but it's crazy how hard one has to press to clip the damn thing, I was absolutely sure I would break the M2 stick in half, or crush it.
> 
> The X99 mounting experience was not so nice : the manual is gigantic turd when you have an X99 Deluxe *II* and not the one (which is probably not produced since at least a year)
> - the manual doesn't say why the bolts are attached to the block and that you got to remove them. It's easy to see once you try to mount the rad but a mention could have been nice
> - it doesn't say either to remove the existing standoffs...again, pretty obvious once you try, but a mention would be nice.
> - when you remove the standoff, you discover there is a piece of plastic that fills the holes...so I went ahead and pierced through. Not sure why Asus put that, but again, a little mention in the manual would help
> - the screw diagram is all wrong, but pretty easy to figure out
> 
> In the end nothing dangerous, but time wasted to double check everything because I couldn't trust the manual. Given the price, this could be perfected. Like a lot.
> 
> Other general remark : be more specific about the screws : the pouches contain on average 50% more screws than needed, with many sizes. And sometimes, 2 screw lengths will work the same...


I have the same set up I think for me the biggest issue was piercing through the plastic tape on the board and if I remember the screws for the VRM backplate the directions were wrong but everything went on pretty ease. The M.2 heatsink....there was a little fiddling at 1st it was a huge PITA but I realized the clips have to be centered then they snap on pretty easy.....their manuals def need work and like you said, the Asus x99 mono block I think the manual is based on the orig deluxe board

when you say 1080 ti rad I'm assuming you mean block and rad?


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> I have the same set up I think for me the biggest issue was piercing through the plastic tape on the board and if I remember the screws for the VRM backplate the directions were wrong but everything went on pretty ease. The M.2 heatsink....there was a little fiddling at 1st it was a huge PITA but I realized the clips have to be centered then they snap on pretty easy.....their manuals def need work and like you said, the Asus x99 mono block I think the manual is based on the orig deluxe board
> 
> when you say 1080 ti rad I'm assuming you mean block and rad?


I did mean block









My rads are HardwareLabs, and I am waiting for CL parts and m4 screws to mount them properly


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> I did mean block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My rads are HardwareLabs, and I am waiting for CL parts and m4 screws to mount them properly


Nice









Id def be curious on what you get as far as stable clocks and heat under load since we are pretty much running the same set up


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Love the badge DB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


thanks it was the same company that did JWalt's badges


----------



## Daggi

I got two new rotary fittings from EK. With the flat spot on the two sides they are not as nice as the older one. They also have a little bit bigger diameter, the old one is 19mm and the new one is 20mm




Anyone know if someone have the older ones in stock?


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I got two new rotary fittings from EK. With the flat spot on the two sides they are not as nice as the older one. They also have a little bit bigger diameter, the old one is 19mm and the new one is 20mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know if someone have the older ones in stock?


There are a couple of amazon vendors like titan rig that might still have the older stock if they sell EK...you could also contact PPCS and see if they have any old stock left....lots of time because of the amount they order they do have older stock left


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I got two new rotary fittings from EK. With the flat spot on the two sides they are not as nice as the older one. They also have a little bit bigger diameter, the old one is 19mm and the new one is 20mm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know if someone have the older ones in stock?


You got this from our webshop?

The new ones you received looks like what we had on the predators. I will try to know if we changed our rotary fittings.


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing Full Cover water blocks for AMD® Radeon® RX Vega based graphics cards!


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You got this from our webshop?
> 
> The new ones you received looks like what we had on the predators. I will try to know if we changed our rotary fittings.


Yeah I would like to know also







Maybe i can order new ones directly from EK's webshop








Got the the weird ones from "Digital Impuls" in Norway


----------



## Phazeshifta

So what do you have in the works for Threadripper, EK? I keep seeing posts saying you have compatible products ready for day one, but I can't find anything more than rumors.

I find it strange that you've announced blocks for Vega, but nothing for Threadipper, and they should be launching the same day.


----------



## n8t1308

Well, I finally finished my water cooling set-up and I'm just glad it all booted properly smile.gif De-lidded the 7700K with the Rockit kit and cant say enough about how easy having that tool made it! Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut for the IHS and Thermal Grizzly Paste for the CPU and GPU. EK everything except for the radiator obviously... the wife thought bigger was better and went with an Alphacool Monsta 420mm so as you can tell that thing was not going to fit in the case. I drilled out two holes on the top for tubing pass through and im very happy with my temps. CPU under full stress test didnt go above 63`C and thats at 5GHZ with a 1.380V. The GTX 1080 doesnt go above 38`C which i find a little weird. I just expected it to be higher. Overclocked that as well to 2126 MHz on the core and 5184 MHz on the memory.

CPU Block: EK-Supremacy EVO Full Nickel
GPU Block: EK-FC1080 GTX TF6 Nickel/Acrylic
GPU Backplate: EK-FC1080 TF6 Full Nickel Backplate
Reservoir/Pump: EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
Fittings: EK 1/2ID x 3/4OD Black Compression Fittings
Tubing: Primochill Premoflex LRT Onyx Black 1/2ID x 3/4OD
Coolant: EK Cryofuel Clear

Needless to say I'm very satisfied with being back under water again smile.gif Will be running EK Cryofuel Clear in the loop as soon as my drain tubing fittings show up....my little oversight for this project haha

All fans are Corsair ML140's but the case is using Corsair ML120's


----------



## Jobotoo

I have an EK Supremacy Evo CPU Block that came with parts for (Intel socket LGA-775, LGA-115x, LGA-1366 and LGA-2011). I am getting an x299 motherboard (LGA-2066) and was wondering if anyone knows if the waterblock will fit with what I have, or do I need to get some other part to fit this socket?


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*
> 
> I have an EK Supremacy Evo CPU Block that came with parts for (Intel socket LGA-775, LGA-115x, LGA-1366 and LGA-2011). I am getting an x299 motherboard (LGA-2066) and was wondering if anyone knows if the waterblock will fit with what I have, or do I need to get some other part to fit this socket?


Just checked the EK website, and there on the front page was the answer . . . (I know, I should have checked there first:
Quote:


> The mounting hole patterns of LGA 2011 and LGA 2011-3 Sockets are the same as for the new LGA 2066 so no mounting bracket upgrades are needed. Every EK Socket LGA 2011 and LGA 2011-3 CPU compatible water block is out-of-the-box compatible with all Socket LGA 2066 motherboards.


LINK: https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-confirms-intel-socket-lga-2066-compatibility/


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Yeah I would like to know also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe i can order new ones directly from EK's webshop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the the weird ones from "Digital Impuls" in Norway


So after a few emails with the guys at the HQ, those fittings really aren't EK. The people responsible of this reseller will contact them about it.

If you order some from us you'll get the same as the one you already owned.

Do you know if you can return those new ones to the reseller and be refunded?


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing a new RGB monoblock for ASUS® ROG® Strix X299-E Gaming motherboard


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> So after a few emails with the guys at the HQ, those fittings really aren't EK. The people responsible of this reseller will contact them about it.
> 
> If you order some from us you'll get the same as the one you already owned.
> 
> Do you know if you can return those new ones to the reseller and be refunded?


Hey, Thanks
I'll call them next week. Anyways I'll order new ones in EK's webshop next time I need more fittings, can use those ugly ones in my test bench.
By the way here is the links to the fittings
-EK-AF Extender Rotary M-M G1/4 - Nickel
-EK-AF Extender Rotary M-F G1/4 - Nickel

The picture clearly shows the same as the old one i got


----------



## spyui

Can anyone tell me does EK DDC 3.2 elite fit with bitspower DDC pump top ? ( sorry to ask different brand in EK club







)


----------



## iamjanco

I'm as guilty as anyone else here, so...

Regarding the EVGA/EK backplate issue that's been discussed ad nauseum, yes, it's a really simple fix, and normally it shouldn't be an issue. But at least one important part of the puzzle was left out:

EVGA typically allows its customers to remove their VGA coolers and backplates to accommodate water cooling parts, without voiding the warranty they offer. If warranty service is required for whatever reason(s), as long as one reinstalls the original parts, there typically won't be an issue getting EVGA warranty service. But if any physical changes are made to those parts and/or the rest of the card (like enlarging that one little backplate hole on a $780 1080ti), EVGA stipulates they have the right to refuse warranty service.

If I recall correctly, at least one member who experienced the issue was informed of such by EVGA when questioned about making that modification to the backplate. I should add that many people stick with EVGA simply because of their comparatively liberal policies with respect to using their parts in water cooled systems.

That said, I mostly agree with what was said about being happy that manufacturers exist that make custom parts for folks like the members of this forum (this includes both EK and EVGA). I also understand that to stay in business in what amounts to a rapidly changing, highly competitive marketplace, they need to provide those parts in a timely fashion (especially if they give advance notice of such parts production). The problem isn't necessarily limited so much to EVGA, EK, nor any of the other manufacturers themselves (including major players like Intel, AMD, and NVIDIA); but moreso with an entire industry that's in such a rush to get the next best thing out (while making lots of moola doing so) that they've perhaps lost sight of the meaning/intent of quality as interpreted by the discerning customer, including customer expectations of the aftermarket service which often falls under that umbrella.

While many might disagree with the following and in truth is often not true at all, *the customer is always right*. Otherwise, you risk *caveat emptor* in a world where information can be and often is conveyed instantaneously.


----------



## emsj86

This topic of the back plate really needs its own thread at his point. I get both sides. But there is lagers of this stuff now


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> This topic of the back plate really needs its own thread at his point. I get both sides. But there is lagers of this stuff now


agreed


----------



## iamjanco

^ Agreed. At this point, it simply needs to be put to bed.


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyui*
> 
> Can anyone tell me does EK DDC 3.2 elite fit with bitspower DDC pump top ? ( sorry to ask different brand in EK club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Yes it does.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pmTjyouJj



Picked this up.


----------



## becks

Guys...Just got a whole new level of respect for those using bent hard line tubing, either acrylic or PETG....just broke 6 packs of the EK 2 pieces 500 mm Acrylic trying to get a single piece double angled from CPU to top Rad and failed miserable...

After I broke and trowed the 30th piece I am now able to get it perfect but after cutting it to size I can't put the connector fitting over it as it gets deformed and is not perfect round anymore..

Also the silicon insert I had from XSPC got all melted and broke in small pieces so now I have ordered some more acrylic from EK and the silicon insert from Alphacool (the 10 mm, actual 9.2 one)
It would be so useful if I could find some silicon insert from EK but from what I saw they only sell it as a kit..10mm + 12mm silicon + hacksaw...
I might have had a piece or 2 that worked from all those that I trowed but if it's not 100% perfect its going to trash... so I am expecting to have to order other 5-6 packs of acrylic from EK till I actually finish with it.....So Frustrating!!


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Guys...Just got a whole new level of respect for those using bent hard line tubing, either acrylic or PETG....just broke 6 packs of the EK 2 pieces 500 mm Acrylic trying to get a single piece double angled from CPU to top Rad and failed miserable...
> 
> After I broke and trowed the 30th piece I am now able to get it perfect but after cutting it to size I can't put the connector fitting over it as it gets deformed and is not perfect round anymore..
> 
> Also the silicon insert I had from XSPC got all melted and broke in small pieces so now I have ordered some more acrylic from EK and the silicon insert from Alphacool (the 10 mm, actual 9.2 one)
> It would be so useful if I could find some silicon insert from EK but from what I saw they only sell it as a kit..10mm + 12mm silicon + hacksaw...
> I might have had a piece or 2 that worked from all those that I trowed but if it's not 100% perfect its going to trash... so I am expecting to have to order other 5-6 packs of acrylic from EK till I actually finish with it.....So Frustrating!!


I'm really sorry...
What I am going to say will not help you, but reading what you went through, I am SO GLAD I didn't follow the people telling me to go hard tubing









==> have you also considered using 45° adaptors instead of bending for the tricky parts ?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I recommend the Primochill or Monsoon inserts, also sounds like you were holding it too close to the heat source. It's not easy work, I was fortunate to get it right off the bat the first time I did it but I was triple checking my measurements and angles.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*


I'm building in a small small case so using fitting for the bends is out of the equation...
Could use it but would take to much from the space and not fit with the rest of the build plus I hate them personally...
Hard tubing and especially acrylic is so so stubborn








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I recommend the Primochill or Monsoon inserts, also sounds like you were holding it too close to the heat source. It's not easy work, I was fortunate to get it right off the bat the first time I did it but I was triple checking my measurements and angles.


Tried to find and buy both you mentioned and couldn't find any as a stand alone product in the thickness I require (10 mm)...only if I would'v bought it with a kit...which I don't want, as I already have everything else..
I broke a good 1-2 meter of acrylic before I got the distance to the heater right...strange enough it did not make any bubbles to warn me....the silicon insert was just melting inside

There's this tight double bend thing that I am trying to achieve... Coming out of the CPU block on the left -- Doing a 90 degree up -- than 2 cm above that -- Doing a 90 degree left -- into the radiator 90 fitting








So it's a double bend with only like 3 cm of straight tube on either side.
As I was saying I can do the bends perfectly now but the straights are not round anymore so I can't put the fitting knob over them anymore and it ends up in the trash..
Maybe it was because I was already using only scrap bits of the silicon as it got destroyed ..will see when the new insert comes here ....
Will keep updated...


----------



## war4peace

I'd recommend using soft tubing for that particular area.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I'd recommend using soft tubing for that particular area.


Salut,

I can't use soft tubing for 3 reasons. Pride, stubbornness and the 2 fittings (Cpu port and Rad port) are so close to each other that the soft tube would collapse..


----------



## war4peace

Pride and stubbornness might get your system wet







I have seen one occurrence where s tight hard tubing bend started leaking at the fittings every time the case was lifted and moved around. It would stop leaking when case was settled back.
If soft doesn't fit there, you should try using extenders and connectors in that area. Personally it's what I would do.


----------



## becks

I wouldn't be worry about that...the solid tubing compression fittings I am using from EK are top notch! (EK-HDC)
They require a tremendous amount of force to be applied for the acrylic tube to clip in (it makes a clicking specific noise when it does) and when it's in I can almost lift the hole case by the tube..

The most important thing with such short ends is to cut perfectly straight...if you cut at an angle you might experience what you are saying. That's why I manufactured myself a cutting jig from square aluminium profile.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> I'm building in a small small case so using fitting for the bends is out of the equation...
> Could use it but would take to much from the space and not fit with the rest of the build plus I hate them personally...
> Hard tubing and especially acrylic is so so stubborn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried to find and buy both you mentioned and couldn't find any as a stand alone product in the thickness I require (10 mm)...only if I would'v bought it with a kit...which I don't want, as I already have everything else..
> I broke a good 1-2 meter of acrylic before I got the distance to the heater right...strange enough it did not make any bubbles to warn me....the silicon insert was just melting inside
> 
> There's this tight double bend thing that I am trying to achieve... Coming out of the CPU block on the left -- Doing a 90 degree up -- than 2 cm above that -- Doing a 90 degree left -- into the radiator 90 fitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's a double bend with only like 3 cm of straight tube on either side.
> As I was saying I can do the bends perfectly now but the straights are not round anymore so I can't put the fitting knob over them anymore and it ends up in the trash..
> Maybe it was because I was already using only scrap bits of the silicon as it got destroyed ..will see when the new insert comes here ....
> Will keep updated...


If you are melting the silicon insert I would assume you're applying too much heat. There's no way those should melt given they're also protected by the tube. If you're applying enough heat to melt the insert then not sure how your tube is surviving either.

Also, as you've experienced, short runs that require multiple bends are a pain. This was my biggest headache as well as I had a run going out, then left and down and that left and down section was less than 2 inches.

How is your CPU block situated so close to your rad? Or maybe I'm misreading your description of the run.

And what do you mean by your straights are not round? Are you talking about an uneven cut at the end? Or the tube actually being warped?


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*


Here is a picture of the PC before, when I had soft tubing:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







On the Rad Port the closest to the CPU I have 1x 2x45 degree connector from EK (cause I crammed another fan back there ...between fitting and back of case..
So from that port to the Inlet of the CPU block (the one on left)

The tube is deforming itself being so close to the bend so it is not a perfect round circle anymore and it is a bit oval...

EDIT: I might have been overheating a bit...as I broke the silicon on the first 20 tries.... but the Acrylic never gave signs of overheating...like bubbles and such...


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Here is a picture of the PC before, when I had soft tubing:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the Rad Port the closest to the CPU I have 1x 2x45 degree connector from EK (cause I crammed another fan back there ...between fitting and back of case..
> So from that port to the Inlet of the CPU block (the one on left)
> 
> The tube is deforming itself being so close to the bend so it is not a perfect round circle anymore and it is a bit oval...
> 
> EDIT: I might have been overheating a bit...as I broke the silicon on the first 20 tries.... but the Acrylic never gave signs of overheating...like bubbles and such...


Christ you weren't kidding about a small case, lol.

But from that picture what's the stuff about "2cm" and having to go left? From the left port of the CPU block, aren't you just coming out (that is, straight ahead from the port), then left, then 90 degrees up into the rad?

Draw lines on the pic if it's easier to explain what you're trying to do but as always you want these runs to be as simple as possible.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*


Try and see if the pictures below make sense I am constantly on the run this week so no chance for better quality:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Where you see the yellow line I have 2x 2x45 degree fittings to avoid the rear fan blades...
Where you see the red going from Res and bottom Rad port I will have soft tubing masked (between back of res and radiator - that's why the radiator ports are not aligned straight to the window case and are at an angle, maybe will do some spacers for the bracket if I have time ..going trough the wall into the front of the case, where I have the fill port







than.. from bottom rad port at the back of the pump having soft tubing run at the back of the case where the cable management is where I will have a valve for the empty loop valve







)
Where you see the center screen red line is the double bend....

P.S. Also the GPU will go under water...(EVGA Gtx 1080 TI)...

EDIT:


Spoiler: Fill Port


----------



## demitrisln

Quick question, how the heck do you measure bends for hard tubing? I can measure the length but seems to be a eye game if you need to do multiple bends? is there something you can buy to help measure how far out and then where to bend etc?


----------



## emsj86

You can use a cheap method and bend by hand hard electrical wire than just bend the tubing to be shape you have. I usually use a extra silicon cord and than bend it by hand. Never really had problems doing it that way. Or you can measure with string


----------



## war4peace

@becks: have you considered getting a slightly larger case? Such as the Define S?


----------



## becks

@war4peace Using a larger case.. fittings for the bend..or soft tubing would just get things done...but will certainly kill the wow factor and make it just another regular build









Go big or go home.. I tough that is the saying round here with us Maniacs..

O yes... forgot to mention, all cables including fan and sensors will be sleeved once the actual build is done ..that's where the real fun begins
















EDIT: With the same exact build I was the 125th in the world at XTU on HWbot couple of months ago ...that's when I killed my first CPU


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Quick question, how the heck do you measure bends for hard tubing? I can measure the length but seems to be a eye game if you need to do multiple bends? is there something you can buy to help measure how far out and then where to bend etc?


I use the silicon insert to make the actual measurement....than make a sign on it with a marker pen...put it inside the tube and leave couple of cm extra at each end...than do the bending "free hand" and at the end cut to size and for the last mm I just sand it down by hand with a 220 grit sand paper


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Quick question, how the heck do you measure bends for hard tubing? I can measure the length but seems to be a eye game if you need to do multiple bends? is there something you can buy to help measure how far out and then where to bend etc?


I tried using a coat hang wire but ultimately didn't find it that useful. A small metal ruler, marker (they do rub off PETG with some dry rubbing from a finger), my eye and comparing to failed bends on the same runs was effective. Also having an extra set of tubes to practice with.

One other thing that is sometimes doable on certain runs of two or more bends is getting one end of the tube secured into its fitting and then heating the tube with some skilled use of the heat gun. As you heat and start to feel for some give you can get a better sense for where it's going to bend and adjust on the fly. However that requires a hand bend and because it's harder to apply heat evenly its harder to get a really nice bend. I did it on one of my runs and it turned out well enough. Later I had extra tubing so I used the piece as a guide but doing it the regular way with a mandrel and it came out much better.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Quick question, how the heck do you measure bends for hard tubing? I can measure the length but seems to be a eye game if you need to do multiple bends? is there something you can buy to help measure how far out and then where to bend etc?


I actually picked up the Monsoon bending kit which worked out great. The only issue I had was the tighter/smaller bends had to still do them by hand but for the most part it made the bending experience much better. It's a bit of a learning curve for both the bending system and hard-line bending but so worth it IMO


----------



## StreekG

I don't know how to measure pipes either, what i did was just do a bend roughly where i new i needed it to be, then cut the pipe shorter to achieve the right length.

I struggled to do multiple bends on the same piece of pipe so what i did was just used extentions or angled fittings to help with that.


----------



## becks

Just received the blue silicon insert from Alphacool. First impression...they seem way better quality (more rigid) than the XSPC I had..
They are also a dry fit inside the 10 mm ID EK Acrylic the XSPC would not go in without olive oil or warm soapy water.
It goes in pretty easy but there is no visible wobble in the tube. So I guess its a perfect match!.

Also a lesson I learned...After you cut your tube...make sure you clean the inside 100% of dust and acrylic chips as those get melted easily when you heat the outside.
It also comes in 100 cm length so I can use it to measure pipe length and cut it individually for every piece of Acrylic I do. (I have ordered 2x 100 cm)
Will keep you guys updated later on this week... hopefully we will have some progress.

@akira749 Could you please find out for me if EK intends on selling the silicon insert as a stand alone product as they only have it for sale as a pack (EK-HD Tube D.I.Y. Kit 10&12mm + hacksaw) I only need like 200 cm of 10 mm insert tube


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Just received the blue silicon insert from Alphacool. First impression...they seem way better quality (more rigid) than the XSPC I had..
> They are also a dry fit inside the 10 mm ID EK Acrylic the XSPC would not go in without olive oil or warm soapy water.
> It goes in pretty easy but there is no visible wobble in the tube. So I guess its a perfect match!.
> 
> Also a lesson I learned...After you cut your tube...make sure you clean the inside 100% of dust and acrylic chips as those get melted easily when you heat the outside.
> It also comes in 100 cm length so I can use it to measure pipe length and cut it individually for every piece of Acrylic I do. (I have ordered 2x 100 cm)
> Will keep you guys updated later on this week... hopefully we will have some progress.
> 
> @akira749 Could you please find out for me if EK intends on selling the silicon insert as a stand alone product as they only have it for sale as a pack (EK-HD Tube D.I.Y. Kit 10&12mm + hacksaw) I only need like 200 cm of 10 mm insert tube


We don't have plans to sell it individually unfortunately.


----------



## ElevenEleven

I don't usually do custom water cooling, so I don't know what pump I'm looking at here at a glance, and for some reason searching on-line for the product ID engraved on it did not help... Something like "EK-05 X-T... "

Could anyone please help me identify the pump model used in this computer, as well as tell me how the speed of the pump can be regulated, if it can be at all? I'd like to use pretty minimal speed for the foreseeable future, as this rig will spend a lot of time idle and has no need to be overclocked.


----------



## Jobotoo

Since this is the EK club I wanted to see if @akira749 or anyone else has any info on a monoblock for the Asus Rampage VI Extreme coming out soon™?

I have my case, CPU, waterloop, etc. all ready to go, just waiting on motherboard and monoblock.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> I don't usually do custom water cooling, so I don't know what pump I'm looking at here at a glance, and for some reason searching on-line for the product ID engraved on it did not help... Something like "EK-05 X-T... "
> 
> Could anyone please help me identify the pump model used in this computer, as well as tell me how the speed of the pump can be regulated, if it can be at all? I'd like to use pretty minimal speed for the foreseeable future, as this rig will spend a lot of time idle and has no need to be overclocked.


Those are the old D5-X Top CSQ......They are D5 Pumps but those are the old design. They are either PWM or Vario if PWM they will have a a cable w/molex for power and a cable for PWM which you can connect to your mobo PWM fan header and control via bios or however your mobo controls PWM fans. If Vario they will have a selector 1-5 on the back of the pump. As far as speed, that should be set depending on how many gpm/lpm you need to achieve optimal turbulent flow


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Those are the old D5-X Top CSQ......They are D5 Pumps but those are the old design. They are either PWM or Vario if PWM they will have a a cable w/molex for power and a cable for PWM which you can connect to your mobo PWM fan header and control via bios or however your mobo controls PWM fans. If Vario they will have a selector 1-5 on the back of the pump. As far as speed, that should be set depending on how many gpm/lpm you need to achieve optimal turbulent flow


Thank you! For the 'optimal turbulent flow" determination, can I just set a certain speed and then monitor the system to see if all the temperatures are reasonable? I am not sure how to go about working out this this optimal flow other than by trial and error.
Currently there's an annoying tonal noise from the pump, and since the computer is mostly idle and all the fans are quiet, the pump is clearly audible. So the goal is to make the pump significantly quieter.

EDIT: just checked carefully, and there's nothing from the pump that connects to any fan sockets on the motherboard. I'm guessing it's the Vario version. Gonna look for the selector, I'm not sure it's accessible the way it's installed.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> I don't usually do custom water cooling, so I don't know what pump I'm looking at here at a glance, and for some reason searching on-line for the product ID engraved on it did not help... Something like "EK-05 X-T... "
> 
> Could anyone please help me identify the pump model used in this computer, as well as tell me how the speed of the pump can be regulated, if it can be at all? I'd like to use pretty minimal speed for the foreseeable future, as this rig will spend a lot of time idle and has no need to be overclocked.
> .


Honestly, without a flow meter it will never be exact but you can pretty much figure out by your components how much how much total pressure drop then figure out your pump at that pressure at 1gpm - 1.5gpm and set your pump accordingly
Fittings: 0.3 PSI for the entire loop
Tubing: 0.5 PSI per meter (3.3 feet)
Reservoir: Negligible
GPU about .9psi
CPU about 1.0
These aren't exact but rough estimate

What exactly is your set-up, blocks, rads etc


----------



## hadesfactor

If its a vario I would just set it at 3-4 but it all depends on how big your loop is etc. But honestly, I just set it at about 65% but I have dual loops


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Honestly, without a flow meter it will never be exact but you can pretty much figure out by your components how much how much total pressure drop then figure out your pump at that pressure at 1gpm - 1.5gpm and set your pump accordingly
> Fittings: 0.3 PSI for the entire loop
> Tubing: 0.5 PSI per meter (3.3 feet)
> Reservoir: Negligible
> GPU about .9psi
> CPU about 1.0
> These aren't exact but rough estimate
> 
> What exactly is your set-up, blocks, rads etc


Thank you. This is not my computer (my friend's) and I did not put it together, so I'm basically discovering it as I go along. It's got an x360 radiator that's cooling the CPU (4930k) and an R9 290X (MSI Lightning). Technically there are 2 R9 290X cards, but the top one is not powered on at the moment, and even if it will be, this system will never budge from complete stock settings. Basically the goal is to no longer provide sufficient cooling for a stressed overclocked system but rather to tone down the current cooling to be sufficient for a quiet system at stock settings that will stand idling a lot. These are older parts, as you can see, and my friend will use it for office tasks.





The pump and reservoir are on the other side of the case, behind the divider. You can see them on the previous photos.

Looks like the pump regulation dial is not accessible without taking out the pump


----------



## hadesfactor

Yeah it's on the bttm of the pumps a big pita lol but normally people just set and forget their pump speeds.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*
> 
> Since this is the EK club I wanted to see if @akira749 or anyone else has any info on a monoblock for the Asus Rampage VI Extreme coming out soon™?
> 
> I have my case, CPU, waterloop, etc. all ready to go, just waiting on motherboard and monoblock.


I don't have any firm ETA for now sorry


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I don't have any firm ETA for now sorry


No worries, I do appreciate you letting us know though.


----------



## akira749

EK is announcing dedicated AMD® Threadripper Supremacy EVO water blocks


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> We don't have plans to sell it individually unfortunately.


No worries, thanks for letting me know.

For everyone else. I can confirm that XSPC white insert (10 mm) is a tight fit, careful at over heating as it melts inside.
Alphacool (Blue 10 mm )is a good fit, no wobble, but gives in a bit on bends, leaving the outside a bit flat.
Ordered some Mansoon as well...will update later.


----------



## Paul17041993

well, I found out what the green lines around the seal of my CPU block were... bare copper...












interestingly though, the outside of the block is actually double-plated, as where the nickel flakes off around the seal there's another layer of nickel underneath it but only on the outer side. Why does the outside need two layers but the inside only one...?


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> well, I found out what the green lines around the seal of my CPU block were... bare copper...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> interestingly though, the outside of the block is actually double-plated, as where the nickel flakes off around the seal there's another layer of nickel underneath it but only on the outer side. Why does the outside need two layers but the inside only one...?


That is weird for a couple of reasons. If its electroplated then both sides should have the same amount of plating as its done via a liquid bath. Also, how old is your block, I know they previously had issues with plating but have apparently fixed the issue for recent blocks. But yeah, shouldn't be coming off like that...hopefully it doesn't spread at least right now you can't see it with the gasket in place but I'm sure that's not too comforting


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> That is weird for a couple of reasons. If its electroplated then both sides should have the same amount of plating as its done via a liquid bath. Also, how old is your block, I know they previously had issues with plating but have apparently fixed the issue for recent blocks. But yeah, shouldn't be coming off like that...hopefully it doesn't spread at least right now you can't see it with the gasket in place but I'm sure that's not too comforting


The whole loop's a little more than a year old, so the block must simply be defective as the plating basically peeled off from underneath vs being worn off. I scrubbed the block pretty well with a toothbrush and blasted it with water, all that came off is what you see in the pic, rest is pretty solid, I'm also using EK's new coolant in the loop so I doubt it'll actually be able to get worse, cant exactly do much about it either unless I were to go back to air cooling...

The one other annoying thing is that with my 290X full-cover block, the spots where the screws for the backplate go into the block itself actually go through stand-offs on the block, most of which have come loose and two have actually sheared off the block entirely, making it now impossible to remove the block from the card without special tools...


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> The one other annoying thing is that with my 290X full-cover block, the spots where the screws for the backplate go into the block itself actually go through stand-offs on the block, most of which have come loose and two have actually sheared off the block entirely, making it now impossible to remove the block from the card without special tools...


Do you move your pc a lot or did you drop it or something? This is not a normal situation and should never occur under normal circumstances.

The force it must take to cause screws to sheer off may have possibly damaged your waterblocks in some way, too.

I doubt you actually have defective products, it sounds more like you have outside influences that affected your overall system.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

My build featuring all EK cooling components! Thanks again for the support from EK for this build, couldn't have completed it without you guys.



-Jeffinslaw


----------



## slatanic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> My build featuring all EK cooling components! Thanks again for the support from EK for this build, couldn't have completed it without you guys.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


Nice! What case is this?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Think it's a custom scratch build case that he made. Looks amazing would love to rock something with that small of a footprint.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slatanic*
> 
> Nice! What case is this?


It's called Project mATX, designed by Jeff himself. 25 were made, all sold though.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1616779/project-matx-owners-thread#


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> Do you move your pc a lot or did you drop it or something? This is not a normal situation and should never occur under normal circumstances.
> 
> The force it must take to cause screws to sheer off may have possibly damaged your waterblocks in some way, too.
> 
> I doubt you actually have defective products, it sounds more like you have outside influences that affected your overall system.


They sheered off when I attempted to remove the backplate screws, no abnormal force, the ones that didn't sheer just unscrewed off the block and started bending the PCB. Simply really cheap and nasty metal stand-offs that break with the twist of a finger, which shouldn't even be there in the first place as it's a solid machined block...


----------



## Ceadderman

Seems to me that you may have crossthreaded them. Which is easy enough to do, given their size and thread pitch. I never apply a screw without backing out first to guarantee it seats before it is torqued in place. When you crossthread a screw it's not that difficult to torque it to a point where it is difficult to unscrew and shear the head from the body. Specially leetle screws.









One thing I might suggest for future reference is using a thin coat of AntiSieze on the threads of your screws. You can still snug them but once snug you should be able to remove them without issue. I use the stuff on Wheel Lugs and still torque them to spec, but it only takes a little force to remove the lug nuts.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slatanic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> My build featuring all EK cooling components! Thanks again for the support from EK for this build, couldn't have completed it without you guys.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> Nice! What case is this?
Click to expand...

As previously mentioned, it is my custom case project called Project mATX.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Think it's a custom scratch build case that he made. Looks amazing would love to rock something with that small of a footprint.


You would be correct! Project mATX. Lots of power in that small case.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## skypine27

Just came across this thread:


3 x rads (not EK). 360mm top, 420mm front, 120mm rear.

EK CPU block and EK Blocks and backplates on the Titan Xps

It was my first custom loop build so I didn't try hard tubing and I didn't really "know" about putting angled fittings mid stream to make cleaner routing. Next time!


----------



## Phaedrus89

Build is finally finished! I went a bit overboard with my first custom loop















Don't think i'll be using anything but EK blocks going forward.


----------



## jura11

In middle of building of loop for my friend

Mayhems Pastel Red and Mayhems UV White 13/10 tubing with Barrow fittings,EK Supermacy EVO WB



Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## ElevenEleven

To follow up on my previous posts, I finally unbolted the brackets that hold the pump to the case and shifted out the pump to inspect it. Here's what I see (and I think it's a "D5-X Top CSQ" Vario, if that's still correct):





I do not see the pump speed regulation dial anywhere. Is it behind that mounting plate? Or is it the little red plastic thing exposed in the small circular cut out at the end of the pump assembly?


----------



## looniam

@akira749 i believe the mounting bracket for the VGA supremacy (uniblock) isn't wide enough for VEGA but do you have an ETA for a confirmation?

doing a great job, thanks!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> To follow up on my previous posts, I finally unbolted the brackets that hold the pump to the case and shifted out the pump to inspect it. Here's what I see (and I think it's a "D5-X Top CSQ" Vario, if that's still correct):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do not see the pump speed regulation dial anywhere. Is it behind that mounting plate? Or is it the little red plastic thing exposed in the small circular cut out at the end of the pump assembly?


Yes it's a vario model and yes, the little red dial is what you need to adjust for the speed. A simple precision screwdriver will do the job.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> @akira749 i believe the mounting bracket for the VGA supremacy (uniblock) isn't wide enough for VEGA but do you have an ETA for a confirmation?
> 
> doing a great job, thanks!


You're correct. The uniblock doesn't support VEGA GPU's and unfortunately, we don't plan on making something a revised version to support it.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes it's a vario model and yes, the little red dial is what you need to adjust for the speed. A simple precision screwdriver will do the job.


Excellent, thanks! The little dial worked


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> @akira749 i believe the mounting bracket for the VGA supremacy (uniblock) isn't wide enough for VEGA but do you have an ETA for a confirmation?
> 
> doing a great job, thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're correct. The uniblock doesn't support VEGA GPU's and unfortunately, we don't plan on making something a revised version to support it.
Click to expand...

i mean, you're doing a great _AND fast job!_









and ok, i really wasn't looking forward to ~side grading to a vega 56 anyhow . . . imma still looking around possibly for a nice used 1080.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Seems to me that you may have crossthreaded them. Which is easy enough to do, given their size and thread pitch. I never apply a screw without backing out first to guarantee it seats before it is torqued in place. When you crossthread a screw it's not that difficult to torque it to a point where it is difficult to unscrew and shear the head from the body. Specially leetle screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing I might suggest for future reference is using a thin coat of AntiSieze on the threads of your screws. You can still snug them but once snug you should be able to remove them without issue. I use the stuff on Wheel Lugs and still torque them to spec, but it only takes a little force to remove the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thing is though, all the screws went in normally the first time I installed it, everything was tight and good. Fast track a year later and not only have the screws fused to the stand-offs, but the stand-offs have somehow come loose from the block... If that was bad enough, upon attempting to tighten them back up so you can then take the screws out properly, the stand-offs then sheer off at the flick of the finger... they're aluminium!

What the hell are aluminium standoffs doing on a nickel plated copper block...!? any way you can explain that @akira749...?

another issue; do your D5's seriously not have a safety diode on the RPM signal...?


----------



## Kommando Kodiak

I need some D5 pump help. I want to mount the EK 400 res directly to the D5 so I can just mount the pump without having to worry about res brackets. My problem is do i need a special top or does it simply attach directly by removing the existing top? My pump is an EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM and my res is the EK-RES X3 400


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Thing is though, all the screws went in normally the first time I installed it, everything was tight and good. Fast track a year later and not only have the screws fused to the stand-offs, but the stand-offs have somehow come loose from the block... If that was bad enough, upon attempting to tighten them back up so you can then take the screws out properly, the stand-offs then sheer off at the flick of the finger... they're aluminium!
> 
> What the hell are aluminium standoffs doing on a nickel plated copper block...!? any way you can explain that @akira749...?
> 
> another issue; do your D5's seriously not have a safety diode on the RPM signal...?


I'm not aware they are aluminum. I'll check.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kommando Kodiak*
> 
> I need some D5 pump help. I want to mount the EK 400 res directly to the D5 so I can just mount the pump without having to worry about res brackets. My problem is do i need a special top or does it simply attach directly by removing the existing top? My pump is an EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM and my res is the EK-RES X3 400


Unfortunately, we don't sell the pump/res attachment as a standalone product. You would need to get THIS and swap the reservoir tubing of your 400 on this one instead of the small one.


----------



## Kommando Kodiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I'm not aware they are aluminum. I'll check.
> Unfortunately, we don't sell the pump/res attachment as a standalone product. You would need to get THIS and swap the reservoir tubing of your 400 on this one instead of the small one.


Thank you for the prompt reply o7


----------



## PCSarge

all of the EK.



EK Supreme HF

EK DDC - X TOP

EK FC RX480 Nickel/Acetal

EK RX 480 Backplate

EK Coolstream PE 240


----------



## Groshek

Is it possible to use EK m.2 heatsink underneath motherboard? MB is Asus z170i pro gaming in lian li pc-q37 case.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Groshek*
> 
> Is it possible to use EK m.2 heatsink underneath motherboard? MB is Asus z170i pro gaming in lian li pc-q37 case.


Only if the case has an open area where the M.2 drive sits, otherwise you only have enough room for the M.2 drive alone.


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing a new RGB monoblock for several GIGABYTE® X299 motherboards


----------



## Fediuld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing a new RGB monoblock for several GIGABYTE® X299 motherboards


They look gorgeous. Do you plan to release monoblock for the Gigabyte X399s?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fediuld*
> 
> They look gorgeous. Do you plan to release monoblock for the Gigabyte X399s?


No plans for it yet unfortunately.


----------



## Pandora's Box

Will be joining this club fairly soon!

Just placed an order for the following. Decided to finally dive in to the world of custom watercooling. Can't wait! I also have 3 nvme heatsinks on the way too.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Pandora's Box I would really recommend getting a ball valve (and Y/T/X fitting to add it to the loop) for easy draining.


----------



## Pandora's Box

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Pandora's Box I would really recommend getting a ball valve (and Y/T/X fitting to add it to the loop) for easy draining.


I'm actually looking at that now, thanks!


----------



## Pandora's Box

Just checking here, are these the parts I need for the drain system?


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing a new RGB monoblock for several GIGABYTE® X299 motherboards


Hey Akira,

Do you know if there are any photos of the EKWB RX Vega backplates? There are plenty of photos for the different blocks being offered but I was curious if you had any detail on the design of the backplates.


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> Hey Akira,
> 
> Do you know if there are any photos of the EKWB RX Vega backplates? There are plenty of photos for the different blocks being offered but I was curious if you had any detail on the design of the backplates.


Imagine a flat piece of aluminum with a little logo and some laser engraved text....You now know what the backplate looks like.

All the EKWB backplates look nearly identical.


----------



## WeirdBob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pandora's Box*
> 
> Just checking here, are these the parts I need for the drain system?


I think you'll need more extenders (cause your T block is F/F/F), and you may want to put a cap on the other side of the valve. Maybe also an additional compression fitting + a piece of tubing for when you'll want to drain your loop (replace cap with this tube, aim for a bucket, open valve, open res, voilà!)

Noob myself so take this with a bucket of salt


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> Imagine a flat piece of aluminum with a little logo and some laser engraved text....You now know what the backplate looks like.
> 
> All the EKWB backplates look nearly identical.


Right, but not every GPU has switches and LED's on it's backside. Wondering if there are cutouts or anything like that.


----------



## Pandora's Box

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdBob*
> 
> I think you'll need more extenders (cause your T block is F/F/F), and you may want to put a cap on the other side of the valve. Maybe also an additional compression fitting + a piece of tubing for when you'll want to drain your loop (replace cap with this tube, aim for a bucket, open valve, open res, voilà!)
> 
> Noob myself so take this with a bucket of salt


Good catch, I ordered 3 more extenders, 3 compression fittings, and 3 plugs. 3 of each for extras just in case end up needing more down the line.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pandora's Box*
> 
> Good catch, I ordered 3 more extenders, 3 compression fittings, and 3 plugs. 3 of each for extras just in case end up needing more down the line.


Yeah you always wanna order more then you plan for. Sometimes planned runs don't go as expected. Also, the comment about having a drain for you loop will save you so much trouble in the longs run. Branch off your drain from the lowest possible point you can, run tubing from the split, attach the drain valve (make sure you have the male-male fitting for the drain valve if it requires it) and put a stop plug on the end. I keep a piece of 2-3' tubing with a fitting on the end and when I want to drain the loop, I pull off the stop plug, screw on the extension and open her up That way your drain valve itself doesn't need to be long.


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> Right, but not every GPU has switches and LED's on it's backside. Wondering if there are cutouts or anything like that.


I'm going to out on a limb and say no...

Not a single other EKWB backplate has cutouts for the LED's. I'm sure the machining alone would triple the cost of the already expensive backplates.


----------



## WeirdBob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pandora's Box*
> 
> Good catch, I ordered 3 more extenders, 3 compression fittings, and 3 plugs. 3 of each for extras just in case end up needing more down the line.


Btw, from the pic of your GPU waterblock, don't you need 2 extra stop plugs to put on one side? The side opposite of your fittings, to prevent the liquid from flowing out. I think I have seen a video (if was bitwit iirc) where he didn't put those plugs and flooded his case... Unless they are included.

EDIT: they are included, nvm


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdBob*
> 
> Btw, from the pic of your GPU waterblock, don't you need 2 extra stop plugs to put on one side? The side opposite of your fittings, to prevent the liquid from flowing out. I think I have seen a video (if was bitwit iirc) where he didn't put those plugs and flooded his case... Unless they are included.
> 
> EDIT: they are included, nvm


Yeah. He will need them. Whether the block comes with them or not is another story. I was forced to get a Bitspower block for my gpu as ek doesn't make one and my block came with the 2 plugs. Maybe ek does the same?


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Yeah. He will need them. Whether the block comes with them or not is another story. I was forced to get a Bitspower block for my gpu as ek doesn't make one and my block came with the 2 plugs. Maybe ek does the same?


The EK blocks normally come with 2 thin profile stop plugs....I usually get stop plugs to match the ones I use throughout my system to match, but yes they will come with them.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Seems to me that you may have crossthreaded them. Which is easy enough to do, given their size and thread pitch. I never apply a screw without backing out first to guarantee it seats before it is torqued in place. When you crossthread a screw it's not that difficult to torque it to a point where it is difficult to unscrew and shear the head from the body. Specially leetle screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing I might suggest for future reference is using a thin coat of AntiSieze on the threads of your screws. You can still snug them but once snug you should be able to remove them without issue. I use the stuff on Wheel Lugs and still torque them to spec, but it only takes a little force to remove the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thing is though, all the screws went in normally the first time I installed it, everything was tight and good. Fast track a year later and not only have the screws fused to the stand-offs, but the stand-offs have somehow come loose from the block... If that was bad enough, upon attempting to tighten them back up so you can then take the screws out properly, the stand-offs then sheer off at the flick of the finger... they're aluminium!
> 
> What the hell are aluminium standoffs doing on a nickel plated copper block...!? any way you can explain that @akira749...?
> 
> another issue; do your D5's seriously not have a safety diode on the RPM signal...?
Click to expand...

1 AL on the outside of a peice of copper is 100% ok, and will cause *NO* issues the AL needs to be in contact of copper through an electrolyte, which more or less, creates a battery ( this is the 101 class, not 100% accurate but close enough for easy understanding) ..... so unless you are planning on dunking your pc in a conductive solution, there is nothing to worry about which you would have other issues

2 they are not- i am sure theyt are some cheap steal or something there of

that said it says in the instructions to CHECK them for tightness in all the ones i have done ( using ek blocks since 290s ) for this reason.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdBob*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pandora's Box*
> 
> Good catch, I ordered 3 more extenders, 3 compression fittings, and 3 plugs. 3 of each for extras just in case end up needing more down the line.
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, from the pic of your GPU waterblock, don't you need 2 extra stop plugs to put on one side? The side opposite of your fittings, to prevent the liquid from flowing out. I think I have seen a video (if was bitwit iirc) where he didn't put those plugs and flooded his case... Unless they are included.
> 
> EDIT: they are included, nvm
Click to expand...

but are they the plastic ones @akira749 or the metal, if they are the plastic ones, i WOULD recommend buying some to replace them !


----------



## hadesfactor

@Mega Man the ones that came on my last 2 blocks were metal....they use a rather large Allen key but are of the slim design.

These are the ones that shipped with the 1080 ti block

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-plug-g1-4


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 AL on the outside of a peice of copper is 100% ok, and will cause *NO* issues the AL needs to be in contact of copper through an electrolyte, which more or less, creates a battery ( this is the 101 class, not 100% accurate but close enough for easy understanding) ..... so unless you are planning on dunking your pc in a conductive solution, there is nothing to worry about which you would have other issues


Doesn't stop steel screws from being permanently attached to them however, this is a well known issue when it comes to metal engineering.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 2 they are not- i am sure theyt are some cheap steal or something there of


Doubt it, if it's that soft then it's not even a type of steel, more likely an alloy...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> @Mega Man the ones that came on my last 2 blocks were metal....they use a rather large Allen key but are of the slim design.
> 
> These are the ones that shipped with the 1080 ti block
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-plug-g1-4


i know which they are, I am stating something for a new buyer which he is potentially. From personal experience the plastic ones suck


----------



## Revan654

I had some issues with the LED's EK wired in the RGB MonoBlocks. The wires soldered to the board kept coming out. They were just not holding, With a slight move of the LED the wire popped out.




So Instead of trying to fix it or re-solder the entire board, I just decided to create my own. Which also allowed me to use 22 AWG instead of the 28 or 30 AWG that EK uses.



Difference between EK's & ones I'm using.

a quick video of The LED's had been fully installed(Not the best look due to bright light & camera I was using).

Bright room:

__
http://instagr.am/p/BYB2DZGAhi3%2F/
Darker Room:

__
http://instagr.am/p/BYB50bfg3eI%2F/


----------



## Mega Man

but where did you get the board ?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> but where did you get the board ?


There DarkSide LED boards.


----------



## iamjanco

Instead of boards, could you have used flexible LED strips?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Instead of boards, could you have used flexible LED strips?


I guess you could, These are what I had on hand & know they work with Asus Aura system without overloading it or any other issues that could happen.

Plus DarkSide has some best LED's around.


----------



## khemist

Yeah, i use them also, love them.


----------



## DeviousAddict

Hey guys, I just completed myself a Threadripper (TR) build and i was wondering if EK are planing on doing a monoblock or full cover block for any of the X399 boards? (specifically my board Gigabyte X399 AORUS Gaming 7) I know there is already a CPU block for TR4 socket, but I want that full motherboard clean look you know









However if not, are there plans on making the EK-Kits with the option to change the current block to a TR one. so you can still get the awesome deal of the kit but be able to use the new TR block?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> Hey Akira,
> 
> Do you know if there are any photos of the EKWB RX Vega backplates? There are plenty of photos for the different blocks being offered but I was curious if you had any detail on the design of the backplates.


I didn't saw any yet. But they should be available soon. I will ask our photo guy if he can give me an ETA on the pictures.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that said it says in the instructions to CHECK them for tightness in all the ones i have done ( using ek blocks since 290s ) for this reason.
> but are they the plastic ones @akira749 or the metal, if they are the plastic ones, i WOULD recommend buying some to replace them !


The GPU blocks still comes with the metal ones.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> Hey guys, I just completed myself a Threadripper (TR) build and i was wondering if EK are planing on doing a monoblock or full cover block for any of the X399 boards? (specifically my board Gigabyte X399 AORUS Gaming 7) I know there is already a CPU block for TR4 socket, but I want that full motherboard clean look you know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However if not, are there plans on making the EK-Kits with the option to change the current block to a TR one. so you can still get the awesome deal of the kit but be able to use the new TR block?


We don't currently plan on making a monoblock for the X399 Aorus Gaming 7. Sorry.


----------



## garyd9

@akira749, is there a list of monoblocks that EK is planning on doing posted someplace? I'm looking at moving to the X299 platform, and my motherboard selection is going to be somewhat dependent on what monoblocks might be available in the near future. (I see the 3 blocks on the EKWB.com site, but I suspect that EK has more coming.)

Thanks
Gary


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> @akira749, is there a list of monoblocks that EK is planning on doing posted someplace? I'm looking at moving to the X299 platform, and my motherboard selection is going to be somewhat dependent on what monoblocks might be available in the near future. (I see the 3 blocks on the EKWB.com site, but I suspect that EK has more coming.)
> 
> Thanks
> Gary


Here's the ones we are working on


ASUS Prime X299-A
ASUS Prime X299-Deluxe
ASUS ROG Rampage VI Apex
ASUS ROG Rampage VI Extreme
ASUS TUF X299 Mark 1
ASUS TUF X299 Mark 2


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Here's the ones we are working on
> 
> 
> ASUS Prime X299-A
> ASUS Prime X299-Deluxe
> ASUS ROG Rampage VI Apex
> ASUS ROG Rampage VI Extreme
> ASUS TUF X299 Mark 1
> ASUS TUF X299 Mark 2


I guess things would have been easier for you if Asus made any two boards the same?

Leaning towards the one Asus board available today (strix I think) that has the block already.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> I guess things would have been easier for you if Asus made any two boards the same?
> 
> Leaning towards the one Asus board available today (strix I think) that has the block already.


I know we'll have multiple boards compatibility with a unique monoblock so we won't have that amount of monoblocks to create


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I know we'll have multiple boards compatibility with a unique monoblock so we won't have that amount of monoblocks to create


Here's hoping they make some acetal ones too ~_^


----------



## Phazeshifta

is the monoblock for the ASUS® ROG Crosshair VI Hero compatible with the extreme as well?

If not, is there plans to make one for the crosshair vi extreme?


----------



## surfinchina




----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> Hey Akira,
> 
> Do you know if there are any photos of the EKWB RX Vega backplates? There are plenty of photos for the different blocks being offered but I was curious if you had any detail on the design of the backplates.


Sorry, the above pic was supposed to be a quote


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> Sorry, the above pic was supposed to be a quote


So yeah...Exactly what was originally said on the matter.

EKWB doesn't create any custom etching for LED's on their backplates. Again, the tooling alone would probably triple the cost of the already expensive backplates.


----------



## Fediuld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> Hey guys, I just completed myself a Threadripper (TR) build and i was wondering if EK are planing on doing a monoblock or full cover block for any of the X399 boards? (specifically my board Gigabyte X399 AORUS Gaming 7) I know there is already a CPU block for TR4 socket, but I want that full motherboard clean look you know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However if not, are there plans on making the EK-Kits with the option to change the current block to a TR one. so you can still get the awesome deal of the kit but be able to use the new TR block?


I agree with you. The X399 Gaming 7 needs the monoblock more than the rest








And because that delay of what EK is planning to do on socket known since December, is that I have put on hold the whole upgrade to X399


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> So yeah...Exactly what was originally said on the matter.
> 
> EKWB doesn't create any custom etching for LED's on their backplates. Again, the tooling alone would probably triple the cost of the already expensive backplates.


I must say I was a bit disappointed.
The backplate is a plain rectangle with a smallish slightly crude R on the corner.
The block itself is plasticky, not like my old nano block. The 2 plugs have the nickel coming off the substrate.
The single slot backplate is cheap chrome such as you would get from a cheap Chinese PCIE card and the (black) screws into the ports are countersunk, the slot is not, so the black screws on the cheap chrome stick out a mile.
It works ok though.
Temps on the Vega Frontier Edition maxed out at 42 while benching.
It's a shame that Radeon saw fit to put a hardware protection onboard to stop me from modding the bios. I can't take advantage of all that unused power


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> I had some issues with the LED's EK wired in the RGB MonoBlocks. The wires soldered to the board kept coming out. They were just not holding, With a slight move of the LED the wire popped out.


do those strips seriously not have any form of glue or casing to keep the cables secured and insulated...? this is live 12V from the PSU we're dealing with...

nice solder job though, but you'll want to glue or tape them too


----------



## cam0385

Just finished my first water build. All EK parts in a Parvum M1.0 case. Considering it is my first loop, I'm happy with the results... and super happy with the temps. 4770k delidded @4.7ghz (1.25v) - 45C while gaming. GTX 1080 FTW @ 2100/5500 - 38C while gaming.


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> Hey Akira,
> 
> Do you know if there are any photos of the EKWB RX Vega backplates? There are plenty of photos for the different blocks being offered but I was curious if you had any detail on the design of the backplates.


In case anybody was wondering:


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> is the monoblock for the ASUS® ROG Crosshair VI Hero compatible with the extreme as well?
> 
> If not, is there plans to make one for the crosshair vi extreme?


We will know soon.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> do those strips seriously not have any form of glue or casing to keep the cables secured and insulated...? this is live 12V from the PSU we're dealing with...
> 
> nice solder job though, but you'll want to glue or tape them too


That is all EK's doing, I have zero control over this.

this was my own mod (Using my own LED's). This was my very first try at soldering to a PCB board, it may not be perfect. No heatshrink was applied yet.


----------



## Tlow

Hey guys,
I just finished my first loop. Thinking about to watercool the graphicscard as well but not in this case due to limited radiator support.
What do you think?


----------



## khemist

https://postimages.org/

https://postimages.org/

Got this today.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam0385*
> 
> Just finished my first water build. All EK parts in a Parvum M1.0 case. Considering it is my first loop, I'm happy with the results... and super happy with the temps. 4770k delidded @4.7ghz (1.25v) - 45C while gaming. GTX 1080 FTW @ 2100/5500 - 38C while gaming.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tlow*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I just finished my first loop. Thinking about to watercool the graphicscard as well but not in this case due to limited radiator support.
> What do you think?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://postimages.org/
> 
> https://postimages.org/
> 
> Got this today.


Very Nice!!!

And, Tlow, I highly encourage you to watercool the GPU.


----------



## thyfartismurder

HI, Does anyone know how to get replacement O-rings for hardtube compression fittings? some idiot lose a few last night.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thyfartismurder*
> 
> HI, Does anyone know how to get replacement O-rings for hardtube compression fittings? some idiot lose a few last night.


Which one? The one that goes on the G1/4 thread or the one that slides over the tubing?


----------



## thyfartismurder

The one that slides over the tubing/ sits inside the collar on the 10/12mm HDC fittings


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thyfartismurder*
> 
> The one that slides over the tubing/ sits inside the collar on the 10/12mm HDC fittings


The best will be to open a ticket on our website and ask for some replacements.

Link : https://www.ekwb.com/customer-care/


----------



## thyfartismurder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> The best will be to open a ticket on our website and ask for some replacements.
> 
> I had just submitted one before your first reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thankyou anyway


----------



## kevindd992002

Fasle alarm, please disregard this post.


----------



## Chaoz

Finally got my Vega waterblock today. Looks great.


----------



## Revan654

Somehow my entire MonoBlock came apart. I'm not 100% sure how to put it back together. EK support was no help. They blamed me for taking it apart, even though it was screw that I could not take out or even access to. Plus switching face plates was allowed atlease from what I can tell.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Somehow my entire MonoBlock came apart. I'm not 100% sure how to put it back together. EK support was no help. They blamed me for taking it apart, even though it was screw that I could not take out or even access to. Plus switching face plates was allowed atlease from what I can tell.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did one or more screws sheer off?


----------



## jura11

Bit of upgrade for me

Replaced Mayhems UV White 13/10 for EK ZMT 16/10 and used as previously Barrow "Choice" 16/10 fittings and fluid is Mayhems X1 with red dye,swapped Noiseblocker BlackSilent XLP for Phanteks PH-F120MP on EK XE360mm radiator and removed 120mm radiator as well as has been useless I think and caused only restriction









Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> That is all EK's doing, I have zero control over this.
> 
> this was my own mod (Using my own LED's). This was my very first try at soldering to a PCB board, it may not be perfect. No heatshrink was applied yet.


Yea, you did a good job re-soldering, but like I said you'll want to be sure that area is kept insulated as if a short were to occur it could completely destroy your motherboard and cables (or whatever controller it's plugged into). I've had the PCB on an old LED controller burn off its 12V rail from a short, fortunately a simple wire fix was all that was needed, PSU protection doesn't detect these shorts as the current is too low.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Somehow my entire MonoBlock came apart. I'm not 100% sure how to put it back together. EK support was no help. They blamed me for taking it apart, even though it was screw that I could not take out or even access to. Plus switching face plates was allowed atlease from what I can tell.


Wait, what monoblock is this? also the standard disassembly of blocks is covered by warranty (and highly encouraged for cleaning), so is it more specifically the RGB lighting area?

On another note; the PWM dual-D5 XTOP actually drones quite loudly at lower-than-max RPMs, almost no point in even being PWM... but I guess there's some cases where ultra low idle flow is useful...


----------



## velocityx

guys. question about adding color to the loop

I currently run all EK stuff with cryofuel clear premix that I had. I had to add some more distilled water as one bottle of premix wasn't enough. Right now i'm thinking about adding color, can I just get the cryofuel concentrate with the desired color and just pour it into the loop?

ek says that the concentrate solution should be dilluted with 1:9 with distilled. So if I add the concentrate with color, it would be like 2:12. My thinking is it should be just fine but wanna ask, I made a ticket with EK yesterday but waiting for answers still.

edit:

weird, EK told me not to mix Clear with Red.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> On another note; the PWM dual-D5 XTOP actually drones quite loudly at lower-than-max RPMs, almost no point in even being PWM... but I guess there's some cases where ultra low idle flow is useful...


Mine doesn't do that at all. Have mine running on 60% or 1900rpm and they're near silent, even makes less noise than my Noctua Industrials at 900rpm.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> weird, EK told me not to mix Clear with Red.


huh? I wonder if there's actually a reason for not mixing them (such as the premix perhaps being a different formula than the concentrate.) Or, perhaps they just use that as a generic response to any "mixing" questions.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Did one or more screws sheer off?


It became unscrewed somehow, Not sure how. Basically if someone took a screw to a normal screw & unscrewed it. From what I can tell this shouldn't happen since the pegs stop the block from moving in a such a way making it impossible to unscrew that selected screw.

It can unscrewed. the main screw
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> huh? I wonder if there's actually a reason for not mixing them (such as the premix perhaps being a different formula than the concentrate.) Or, perhaps they just use that as a generic response to any "mixing" questions.


It has something to do with the dyes used to make the color coolant the way it does.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Mine doesn't do that at all. Have mine running on 60% or 1900rpm and they're near silent, even makes less noise than my Noctua Industrials at 900rpm.


May be to do with my hearing, I'm particularly sensitive in the 120-250Hz area so it probably sounds a lot louder to me than others. Doesn't really matter though as the high pitch whine from them running full tilt is quiet enough to not really be noticeable much, not any louder than the whine from nearby power packs and monitors.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It became unscrewed somehow, Not sure how. Basically if someone took a screw to a normal screw & unscrewed it. From what I can tell this shouldn't happen since the pegs stop the block from moving in a such a way making it impossible to unscrew that selected screw.
> 
> It can unscrewed. the main screw
> It has something to do with the dyes used to make the color coolant the way it does.


- It'd be the dyes most likely, but I don't know why you'd want to dilute the red though anyway...

- The only way I know screws can undo themselves completely is through strong vibrational force, so something weird there, chances are the screw/s in question were not properly done in the first place...? (not new for EK, jayztwocents even had a TR block with one of the large screws undone...)


----------



## Juris

Wondering if you guys can help. I picked up a new (actually new from Scan.co.uk) EK watreblock for my 295x2 gpu a couple of months ago. Very rare find but only getting around to installing it now and spotted its missing one of the mounting screws for one of the 2 cores. I've just opened a ticket with EK like an hour ago but we're heading into the weekend so theres no way the guys will be able to respond before next week.

Would I be safe taking one of the screws from elsewhere on the block and using it to secure the core or is it asking for trouble.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Wondering if you guys can help. I picked up a new (actually new from Scan.co.uk) EK watreblock for my 295x2 gpu a couple of months ago. Very rare find but only getting around to installing it now and spotted its missing one of the mounting screws for one of the 2 cores. I've just opened a ticket with EK like an hour ago but we're heading into the weekend so theres no way the guys will be able to respond before next week.
> 
> Would I be safe taking one of the screws from elsewhere on the block and using it to secure the core or is it asking for trouble.


It doesn't seems to be missing any mounting holes.
Check the link from EKWB themselves. The block seems to be like that.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-r9-295x2-nickel


----------



## Juris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> It doesn't seems to be missing any mounting holes.
> Check the link from EKWB themselves. The block seems to be like that.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-r9-295x2-nickel


Thanks for the reply. I checked EK's pic's and its missing 1 of the screw posts at the bottom of the left core (top right in EK's pics). Just north east of the bottom left screw post should be an identical one around the core making 4. Mine only has 3 screw posts on the left core but 4 on the other.


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> It doesn't seems to be missing any mounting holes.
> Check the link from EKWB themselves. The block seems to be like that.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-r9-295x2-nickel


Are you blind? Second image, above the bottom left mount, one of the mounting holes near the GPU core is gone.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Wondering if you guys can help. I picked up a new (actually new from Scan.co.uk) EK watreblock for my 295x2 gpu a couple of months ago. Very rare find but only getting around to installing it now and spotted its missing one of the mounting screws for one of the 2 cores. I've just opened a ticket with EK like an hour ago but we're heading into the weekend so theres no way the guys will be able to respond before next week.
> 
> Would I be safe taking one of the screws from elsewhere on the block and using it to secure the core or is it asking for trouble.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's unfortunate









Sorry about that.

While the guys at the support team get back at you, you could take the standoff that I circled in red and put it on the missing spot.


----------



## Juris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> That's unfortunate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about that.
> 
> While the guys at the support team get back at you, you could take the standoff that I circled in red and put it on the missing spot.


Thats awesome thanks for the tip. No apology needed at all. It can happen with any component you buy. Things slip through QA some times. Not world ending. 1st world problem tbh









I'm sure the guys in Slovenia will sort it once they've recharged over the weekend. Cheers.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I checked EK's pic's and its missing 1 of the screw posts at the bottom of the left core (top right in EK's pics). Just north east of the bottom left screw post should be an identical one around the core making 4. Mine only has 3 screw posts on the left core but 4 on the other.


Ah, I see. Didn't see that, my bad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> Are you blind? Second image, above the bottom left mount, one of the mounting holes near the GPU core is gone.


Woah, the hostility. I didn't see it with all the holes and screws. Jesus, calm down!!
Plus I was on my phone, when I typed that. So relax.


----------



## Juris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Ah, I see. Didn't see that, my bad.


No worries at all. I'm amazed I spotted it myself considering I have a hang over that would kill the average elephant. For some reason I decide to watercool when I can barely speak or walk in straight lines. What could possibly go wrong


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Ah, I see. Didn't see that, my bad.
> Woah, the hostility. I didn't see it with all the holes and screws. Jesus, calm down!!
> Plus I was on my phone, when I typed that. So relax.


>Hostility

k dude.


----------



## Juris

Hiccup number 2 of the day. I'm swapping from socket 1150 4790k to a Ryzen 1700 but my Evo Supremacy I bought at the end of November 2016 doesn't seem to have the AM4 backplate only the mounting plate. Presuming I have to purchase it directly from EK?

Also wondering has anyone plastidipped their cpu backplates or is that a stupid idea. I'd prefer to keep the rear mostly black apart from my cabling as the case is 2 sided tempered glass. Its just for aesthetics.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Hiccup number 2 of the day. I'm swapping from socket 1150 4790k to a Ryzen 1700 but my Evo Supremacy I bought at the end of November 2016 doesn't seem to have the AM4 backplate only the mounting plate. Presuming I have to purchase it directly from EK?
> 
> Also wondering has anyone plastidipped their cpu backplates or is that a stupid idea. I'd prefer to keep the rear mostly black apart from my cabling as the case is 2 sided tempered glass. Its just for aesthetics.


When you'll be in communication with the support team for your standoff, just mention them our AM4 compatibility issue and they will sort it out too.

I don't see any potential issue by plasti-dipping your backplate since Plasti-Dip is an insulation solution. So it won't be harmful.


----------



## Juris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> When you'll be in communication with the support team for your standoff, just mention them our AM4 compatibility issue and they will sort it out too.
> 
> I don't see any potential issue by plasti-dipping your backplate since Plasti-Dip is an insulation solution. So it won't be harmful.


Cool stuff. I'll mention it when the get back to me on the 295x2 issue. Thanks again for all the support. Much appreciated.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> Are you blind? Second image, above the bottom left mount, one of the mounting holes near the GPU core is gone.


***ahem***... one of my MSI EK seahawk 1080 also came with a loose screw / stand, but in my case it was not lost , it was still in the box, all I had to do was tight it back in, and it's been perfect ever since.

in fact, it's currently running my wifey rig



I do have to agree the Quality Control people needs to do some double check before giving the "a OK" before packaging the products.

Many of the EK radiators I received some of them have several screw holes that are either worn out, or it was too big, and that was annoying, I had to resort to some engineering (Home Depot) to make the screw fit in properly without falling off.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I think I have a spare stand-off from my 1080 block (have had zero issues with mine so far on temps)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

That dude said " Are you blind?"










TCO


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Mine doesn't do that at all. Have mine running on 60% or 1900rpm and they're near silent, even makes less noise than my Noctua Industrials at 900rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> May be to do with my hearing, I'm particularly sensitive in the 120-250Hz area so it probably sounds a lot louder to me than others. Doesn't really matter though as the high pitch whine from them running full tilt is quiet enough to not really be noticeable much, not any louder than the whine from nearby power packs and monitors.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It became unscrewed somehow, Not sure how. Basically if someone took a screw to a normal screw & unscrewed it. From what I can tell this shouldn't happen since the pegs stop the block from moving in a such a way making it impossible to unscrew that selected screw.
> 
> It can unscrewed. the main screw
> It has something to do with the dyes used to make the color coolant the way it does.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> - It'd be the dyes most likely, but I don't know why you'd want to dilute the red though anyway...
> 
> - The only way I know screws can undo themselves completely is through strong vibrational force, so something weird there, chances are the screw/s in question were not properly done in the first place...? (not new for EK, jayztwocents even had a TR block with one of the large screws undone...)
Click to expand...

another way to have a screw loose is through heating and cooling cycles, as the metal expands and contracts. that is why on commercial motors and what not in the electrical you are supposed to go through them all and tighten them every 6 months.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> another way to have a screw loose is through heating and cooling cycles, as the metal expands and contracts. that is why on commercial motors and what not in the electrical you are supposed to go through them all and tighten them every 6 months.


That's true, though I don't think the block should be in a high enough temp range for that...

also @akira749, anything back about the material used for the block stand-offs?


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> another way to have a screw loose is through heating and cooling cycles, as the metal expands and contracts. that is why on commercial motors and what not in the electrical you are supposed to go through them all and tighten them every 6 months.


This is especially a problem with aluminium blocks. However there is a solution to that problem, which is bonding sealant (you know the blue stuff you usually find on the screws when disassembling a graphics card). This stuff works great when using water blocks/heat sinks and screws which are made out of aluminium. Normally you would have to re-tighten the screws after 24 hours of usage, but sometimes that's just impossible in a SLI setup of graphics cards.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0193FBDG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Gobstoppable

Anyone have experience with the ek plexi stop fitting?
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-plug-g1-4-plexi-led-5mm

I tried these on the bottom of my res but they don't form a tight enough seal and they leaked. The bottom ports of my x3 res are recessed
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073Z5QLDF/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1503752467&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bitspower+low+profile

My concern is, will the plexi plugs fit the recessed ports on the bottom of the x3 res?


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> This is especially a problem with aluminium blocks. However there is a solution to that problem, which is bonding sealant (you know the blue stuff you usually find on the screws when disassembling a graphics card). This stuff works great when using water blocks/heat sinks and screws which are made out of aluminium. Normally you would have to re-tighten the screws after 24 hours of usage, but sometimes that's just impossible in a SLI setup of graphics cards.
> 
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0193FBDG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The aluminium heatspreaders? never seen that used on those actually, I actually rarely see adhesive used on screws entirely except for on plastic laptops, which are steel screws into steel nuts...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobstoppable*
> 
> Anyone have experience with the ek plexi stop fitting?
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-plug-g1-4-plexi-led-5mm
> 
> I tried these on the bottom of my res but they don't form a tight enough seal and they leaked. The bottom ports of my x3 res are recessed
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073Z5QLDF/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1503752467&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bitspower+low+profile
> 
> My concern is, will the plexi plugs fit the recessed ports on the bottom of the x3 res?


The EK fittings should fit into the recessed ports, would be pretty stupid if EK made them 1mm too wide for no reason...


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobstoppable*
> 
> Anyone have experience with the ek plexi stop fitting?
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-plug-g1-4-plexi-led-5mm
> 
> I tried these on the bottom of my res but they don't form a tight enough seal and they leaked. The bottom ports of my x3 res are recessed
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073Z5QLDF/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1503752467&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bitspower+low+profile
> 
> My concern is, will the plexi plugs fit the recessed ports on the bottom of the x3 res?


Recessed ports on the X3 require the extenders which come with the reservoir to be mounted first. Says so in the manual.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Recessed ports on the X3 require the extenders which come with the reservoir to be mounted first. Says so in the manual.


Yeah you should've gotten a couple extenders with your res. I did on my 100. Didn't get any with my d5/140 combo but then again that didn't need any.


----------



## war4peace

My res did come with them, I was answering Gobstoppable


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> My res did come with them, I was answering Gobstoppable


Oops. Wrong quote! Well I'm sure he'll figure it out


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> That's true, though I don't think the block should be in a high enough temp range for that...
> 
> also @akira749, anything back about the material used for the block stand-offs?


I didn't got a reply. I will ask them again because it's been a while.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobstoppable*
> 
> Anyone have experience with the ek plexi stop fitting?
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-plug-g1-4-plexi-led-5mm
> 
> I tried these on the bottom of my res but they don't form a tight enough seal and they leaked. The bottom ports of my x3 res are recessed
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073Z5QLDF/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1503752467&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bitspower+low+profile
> 
> My concern is, will the plexi plugs fit the recessed ports on the bottom of the x3 res?


It will ft in a recessed port.


----------



## lever2stacks

All of the EK.





Lever


----------



## DarthBaggins

And there's a good example why I'm torn between going with a Parvum case or a HexGear


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> And there's a good example why I'm torn between going with a Parvum case or a HexGear


I want to build Reverse ATX. I have a couple 780sc's laying around that I could SLI









I keep leaning toward the Parvum. Doesn't EK make the Vulture?

TCO


----------



## Mega Man

they have the vulture, they dont make it for purchase


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they have the vulture, they dont make it for purchase


Roger that.

TCO


----------



## lever2stacks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> And there's a good example why I'm torn between going with a Parvum case or a HexGear


This has been one of the funnest cases that I've built in. Not to mention it's just plain sexy the homies over at parvum really know what's up!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I want to build Reverse ATX. I have a couple 780sc's laying around that I could SLI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I keep leaning toward the Parvum. Doesn't EK make the Vulture?
> 
> TCO


I don't think you will be disappointed with the reverse parvum case one bit TCO.

Ohhhh you had to bring up the vulture didn't you. what I would do to get my hands on one of those bad boy's.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they have the vulture, they dont make it for purchase


It's a shame that they only made so many of them and that they never released it for purchase.



Lever


----------



## surfinchina

I have to say, I am totally impressed with EK!
I ordered a monoblock a couple of weeks ago on pre-release. The site said shipping on 25th and it shipped on 25th. It turned up on my door on 28th - this is New Zealand, about as far away from Europe as you can be!
I was dubious about the new circular CPU landing spot but my temps are down by at least 5deg compared to the old supremacy evo. VRM is great at 35 max.
And it looks good








Well done EK


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I want to build Reverse ATX. I have a couple 780sc's laying around that I could SLI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I keep leaning toward the Parvum. Doesn't EK make the Vulture?
> 
> TCO


Hex Gear cases also have the option to be reversed if wanted. I might change mine to reverse ATX when I change hardware or get tired of seeing normal ATX layout.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Hex Gear cases also have the option to be reversed if wanted. I might change mine to reverse ATX when I change hardware or get tired of seeing normal ATX layout.


I think I am leaning more toward the Parvum like Lever and I talked about, big reason being the window at the top of the Parvum to show off the Cards in Reverse layout.

But this is all speculation. After building in this current S3 with pedestal, I just might take a break for a tad.

TCO


----------



## Jyve

Is it me or doesn't the vulture look a lot like the Thermaltake view? Or the other way around?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Is it me or doesn't the vulture look a lot like the Thermaltake view? Or the other way around?


I am a little appalled you would say something like that.

TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Is it me or doesn't the vulture look a lot like the Thermaltake view? Or the other way around?


The other way around, I'm afraid . . .

Though there is certainly a resemblance . . .

The View is also full ATX, (not mitx) and not revered.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I am a little appalled you would say something like that.
> 
> TCO


My apologies









They do look similar though


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Is it me or doesn't the vulture look a lot like the Thermaltake view? Or the other way around?


Yet more intellectual property idea tt ripped off There's a reason they are called Thermal fake


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Is it me or doesn't the vulture look a lot like the Thermaltake view? Or the other way around?
> 
> 
> 
> Yet more intellectual property idea tt ripped off There's a reason they are called Thermal fake
Click to expand...

I prefer to refer to them as Turdmaltake,









EK had every opportunity to release the Vulture, and elected not to . . . .

I can accept castigating Tt for copycatting things that are "current production", but the Vulture just doesn't qualify for any sympathy here.

For its less than hundred dollar price tag, even the snow edition model, the View isn't half bad to work in . . . Like most Tt cases, you can make of it whatever your imagination allows.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

Fair enough


----------



## Jyve

There's a lot of understandable hate for TT but I do dig the core part and more specifically the p3. Very well might be my next case.

Not really looking forward to giving them my money so if anyone out there knows of alternatives to the p3 I'm all ears.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I want to build Reverse ATX.


Rotated ATX is better, though a lot of motherboard heatsinks don't work well rotated...


----------



## HaykOC

The Vardar Evos blow air towards the side with the sticker, right? Just double checking for these new models before I have to do this twice.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HaykOC*
> 
> The Vardar Evos blow air towards the side with the sticker, right? Just double checking for these new models before I have to do this twice.


Yes. Toward the side with the frame on it. Pretty well all fans blow this way?


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Rotated ATX is better, though a lot of motherboard heatsinks don't work well rotated...


Like this?
This Jonsbo case ran really cool! All the heat going up then out








Although it's an mATX case, unfortunately.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HaykOC*
> 
> The Vardar Evos blow air towards the side with the sticker, right? Just double checking for these new models before I have to do this twice.


All fans do, yes


----------



## VSG

There are some fans that have a switch to change the direction of air flow, but even those should generally come in the default mode wherein the blades rotate to move air from the front to the back (where the hub with the sticker is).


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> Like this?
> This Jonsbo case ran really cool! All the heat going up then out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although it's an mATX case, unfortunately.


Yep, just like that, though yours looks a lot cleaner than mine despite having a lot less space to work with...


----------



## zanderkage

Are the guys from EK on here alot?


----------



## Mega Man

yes - from the CEO to the CS rep


----------



## zanderkage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes - from the CEO to the CS rep


I've had an open ticket on there site for a few days ago now and still says new.

Edit: I woke and its pending.


----------



## Mega Man

Well, they dont work the weekend. Bet There is a small backlog.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zanderkage*
> 
> I've had an open ticket on there site for a few days ago now and still says new.


weekend probably? unless you mean like since last tuesdy or something...


----------



## becks

Can I get a confirmation that the block on the : Gigabyte Aorus gtx 1080 ti Waterforce WB Extreme edition is EK made ?
Managed to change the In/Out on it with one of this :



Struggled but works great...the 2 outer holes were off by 0.2 mm so I had to force it into place. No leaks after 24h leak test.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Can I get a confirmation that the block on the : Gigabyte Aorus gtx 1080 ti Waterforce WB Extreme edition is EK made ?
> Managed to change the In/Out on it with one of this :
> 
> 
> 
> Struggled but works great...the 2 outer holes were off by 0.2 mm so I had to force it into place. No leaks after 24h leak test.


No, it's not from us.


----------



## becks

@akira749

Blasphemy!!







the only non EK part in my loop than ..

Yes...and the darn fans...EK did not had the 0 RPM ones when I ordered the Noctuas.. would'v been a game changer..

EDIT: Atleast it has an In/Out EK port now


----------



## becks

Ongoing work (all tubes will be replaced..run out of acrylic







)
Mostly EK parts.


----------



## madbrayniak

I got the X360 kit last christmas from my wife and the tubing has gotten to be foggy, any way to clean this out?

I would like to go to hard tubing in the future but don't want to take it on right now.


----------



## Mega Man

sure is, replace it.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madbrayniak*
> 
> I got the X360 kit last christmas from my wife and the tubing has gotten to be foggy, any way to clean this out?
> 
> I would like to go to hard tubing in the future but don't want to take it on right now.


Hi there

EK DuraClear sadly won't be very clear for very long time, usually within 2-3 months will starts to yellowing

Depends there, if you want tubing which stays clear then Mayhems Clear tubing I can recommend or UV White or EK ZMT

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Phazeshifta

Any word if the Crosshair block works on the Deluxe?


----------



## garyd9

I pulled my loop apart this past weekend. It was built with EK's clear soft tubing and filled with EK's blue "cryofuel" concentrate (mixed with 1L distilled water), EK's Supremacy EVO CPU block and EK's GPU block. It couldn't have been more than 2-3 months since I last flushed/filled it (and the tubing is no more than 6 months old.) Nothing else has ever been added to this water.

There was no visible staining on/in the soft tubing. However, my CPU block was filled with what appeared to be very fine grain blue colored (coloured) sand. (My graphics card block is after the CPU block, so I'm guessing all the particles were caught in the CPU block and never got as far as the graphics card.)

I don't know what the particles were, but considering the effort I put into cleaning out my radiator (and everything else), it seems reasonable that they formed after the loop was put together. I'm wondering if the particles are from the tubing or a side effect of EK's colored "cryofuel." (I'd like to avoid the specific problem in the future... if it's just the coloring, I plan on using only clear coolants in the future.)


----------



## war4peace

A friend of mine also had issues with Cryofuel - now running Mayhems Pastel White in the very same loop with no issues. Tubing is EK DuraClear.


----------



## 550574

Hi everyone,

I just signed up as I am looking for experienced users of watercooling. I hope that we can come out with some new ideas. Let me start (if you have no patience to read all this just scroll to last two sentences of this post









A purpose of this a bit long post is not to get persuaded to use a custom loop so refrain from it please.

Also my goal is not to make you argue which solution is better stay calm then.

Is a matter of bring, maybe, a fresh idea to well developed technology.

I am big fan of watercooling since early 90s. I was one of the first owners of truly fanless quiet as a "ninja" watercooling kit based on just block and pump with reservoir with extremely long water hose which as a boa snake was surrounds my room, whilst barely was able to cool intel core duo or even something more simple, I can't remember exactly, as this was in last millennium








So, I was always wanted to run my PC extremely silent and well cooled. But I never go for custom loop, from one main reason (maintenance!!!). Yes, I know, it is not so scary as it looks, and etc., etc. But I just want to don't have to do it at all. So obviously solution to go is AIO. Well, yes and no. I was very happy to see solution like EKWB Predator kits, but they are bit restricted with their flexibility, all you can go with them is CPU and GPU cooling. Good, but my dream was always to go full with monoblock for CPU, power section, GPU and whatever I wish to add on top of it. Some may say, wait for EK-MLC solution. Yes I can, maybe even my dream comes true with so big flexibility (I am actually counting on it). But since I found out that all AIO are made from that same components like custom loops I was start wondering what actually make AIO a closed (maintenance free) system. And seems for me, that only an open for air reservoir is that difference. An air access is the main thing, which in my opinion, make you go every couple months through this cumbersome process of cleaning your loop. As access of air to the cooling liquid make it useless after couple of months depends on quality and ingredients of it. So I came to the question, how I can "close" (seal) custom loop to make it maintenance free but with all pros of a custom loop?

Let say I will build custom loop made of all usual elements, but I will fill up reservoir to the top or use a kind of sealed one to reduce air access to minimum.

Will this make it a closed loop and let me go maintenance free for long (2-3 years) as AIOs?

This is the question I will leave you for now and I count on a good brainstorm


----------



## war4peace

I'll be blunt: you have wrong information about watercooling.
A custom watercooling solution can last for 2-3 years without touching it at all except for opening the reservoir and topping it off with liquid lost through evaporation. The reasons it usually doesn't last that long is simple: owners are restless and they upgrade, expand, change components, change liquid, etc.

If you use very clean loop components, good colorless premade coolant and opaque, thick-walled tubing to minimize evaporation and light influence on coolant, 3 years is very much achievable.

Le: forgot to mention that air has no impact - no idea where you got that from.


----------



## becks

Anyone can confirm if Phobya temperature sensor G1 / 4 is compatible with EK-RES X3 110 Reservoir ... the thread seems a bit long (to be placed on the top port) ??



Also if I want to set up fans to go up and down accordingly to the level of water temp in the loop will it be a good spot to take that reading from the Reservoir ?


----------



## -1nf1n1ty-

Hello, thought this was a good place to ask this. I am finally getting into watercooling, I always wanted to do it ever since I saw a Voodoo PC. AIO seems like they're everywhere but no clue as to which one is good and which one is crap. Anyways I was looking at this kit: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAC8W5SB2261&ignorebbr=1 was wondering if anyone here has had any experience with it (dangerden seemed pretty fairly priced, but they're gone now







)? If not I was hoping someone could build me a kit for around the same price from another company? Anyway thanks everyone! I just want to cool the CPU! This is my gaming/workstation!

Ryzen CPU
NZXT S340

need anything else?


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulterey*
> 
> This is the question I will leave you for now and I count on a good brainstorm


I'm not sure if your post is trolling or not. On the one hand, it seems designed to stir people up (and it's probably in the wrong thread.) On the other, it's an interesting (if wrong) theory.

Next time you play with a CLC, shake it. Hear the noise of the water inside? It's actually not the sound of water. It's the sound of water moving through... air.

To verify, get a small water bottle or something you can seal. Fill it 1/2 way with water and close it. Shake. You'll hear noise. Now fill it 100% to the top (leaving NO AIR whatsoever.) Close and shake it. No noise.

CLC's have air inside their loops. They also do lose water over time to evaporation. They lose it more slowly than most (but not all) custom loops because of the tubing used (which slows evaporation) and I read once that they also add something to the water that slows evaporation (but I have no idea if that's true or not.)

Being you're in the EK thread, it'd be a good place to mention that EK sells a soft tubing that will also greatly reduce the rate of evaporation. It's a thick walled black tubing (though I forgot what it's called.)


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> Any word if the Crosshair block works on the Deluxe?


I'm not aware of a Deluxe version of the Crosshair?? Do you have a link?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I'm not aware of a Deluxe version of the Crosshair?? Do you have a link?


Thinking they're referring to Asus's Deluxe line (ie x99 Deluxe etc)


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-1nf1n1ty-*
> 
> Hello, thought this was a good place to ask this. I am finally getting into watercooling, I always wanted to do it ever since I saw a Voodoo PC. AIO seems like they're everywhere but no clue as to which one is good and which one is crap. Anyways I was looking at this kit: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAC8W5SB2261&ignorebbr=1 was wondering if anyone here has had any experience with it (dangerden seemed pretty fairly priced, but they're gone now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )? If not I was hoping someone could build me a kit for around the same price from another company? Anyway thanks everyone! I just want to cool the CPU! This is my gaming/workstation!
> 
> Ryzen CPU
> NZXT S340
> 
> need anything else?


Just a word of warning: that is a 100% Aluminum kit, meaning that you are NOT allowed to expand it later with anything other than aluminum.
It's in the description: "Only compatible with other Fluid Gaming aluminum based products".


----------



## Mega Man

However ek is releasing al parts


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Thinking they're referring to Asus's Deluxe line (ie x99 Deluxe etc)


Maybe. But Crosshair is AMD and X99/X299 are Intel so there's gonna be an issue here.









We'll see what he replies to me.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol yeah, thought they only made a Prime x370/x399 no deluxe too


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I'm not aware of a Deluxe version of the Crosshair?? Do you have a link?


Sorry, I meant extreme version. I asked a few days back and you said you'd know in a few days if its compatible.


----------



## AllGamer

Hey EK web shop is down

Is anyone looking into the problem?

It says Database error.
Quote:


> Error establishing a database connection


----------



## Phazeshifta

works just fine for me


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> works just fine for me


Same, works fine for me.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/


----------



## -1nf1n1ty-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Just a word of warning: that is a 100% Aluminum kit, meaning that you are NOT allowed to expand it later with anything other than aluminum.
> It's in the description: "Only compatible with other Fluid Gaming aluminum based products".


I actually didn't see that and didn't know about that! Thanks


----------



## mypickaxe

Rather than "upgrade" to X299, or migrate over to X399, I finally got around to adding the X99 Deluxe monoblock I've had my eye on for well over a year.

Very happy with VRM temps (never breaches 55 degrees C, even under an hours long AIDA64 load test, averages lower) and my highest attainable overclock (with reasonable voltage) is now stable at 4.5GHz on my 5930K.

Hours and hours of gaming in the low 40s Centigrade, across all cores.



*previously ran with a Supremacy EVO Plexi.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> I pulled my loop apart this past weekend. It was built with EK's clear soft tubing and filled with EK's blue "cryofuel" concentrate (mixed with 1L distilled water), EK's Supremacy EVO CPU block and EK's GPU block. It couldn't have been more than 2-3 months since I last flushed/filled it (and the tubing is no more than 6 months old.) Nothing else has ever been added to this water.
> 
> There was no visible staining on/in the soft tubing. However, my CPU block was filled with what appeared to be very fine grain blue colored (coloured) sand. (My graphics card block is after the CPU block, so I'm guessing all the particles were caught in the CPU block and never got as far as the graphics card.)
> 
> I don't know what the particles were, but considering the effort I put into cleaning out my radiator (and everything else), it seems reasonable that they formed after the loop was put together. I'm wondering if the particles are from the tubing or a side effect of EK's colored "cryofuel." (I'd like to avoid the specific problem in the future... if it's just the coloring, I plan on using only clear coolants in the future.)


Probably plasticiser in the tubing, I've heard that the EK tubing is a bit subpar in quality?
But check your blocks and make sure they haven't started de-plating (nickel) or oxidising (copper), check all the fittings as well. If your loop ran really hot at any point (above 50C I think) it may have also caused the coolant to break down slightly, causing the gunkage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulterey*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I just signed up as I am looking for experienced users of watercooling. I hope that we can come out with some new ideas. Let me start (if you have no patience to read all this just scroll to last two sentences of this post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A purpose of this a bit long post is not to get persuaded to use a custom loop so refrain from it please.
> 
> Also my goal is not to make you argue which solution is better stay calm then.
> 
> Is a matter of bring, maybe, a fresh idea to well developed technology.
> 
> I am big fan of watercooling since early 90s. I was one of the first owners of truly fanless quiet as a "ninja" watercooling kit based on just block and pump with reservoir with extremely long water hose which as a boa snake was surrounds my room, whilst barely was able to cool intel core duo or even something more simple, I can't remember exactly, as this was in last millennium
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I was always wanted to run my PC extremely silent and well cooled. But I never go for custom loop, from one main reason (maintenance!!!). Yes, I know, it is not so scary as it looks, and etc., etc. But I just want to don't have to do it at all. So obviously solution to go is AIO. Well, yes and no. I was very happy to see solution like EKWB Predator kits, but they are bit restricted with their flexibility, all you can go with them is CPU and GPU cooling. Good, but my dream was always to go full with monoblock for CPU, power section, GPU and whatever I wish to add on top of it. Some may say, wait for EK-MLC solution. Yes I can, maybe even my dream comes true with so big flexibility (I am actually counting on it). But since I found out that all AIO are made from that same components like custom loops I was start wondering what actually make AIO a closed (maintenance free) system. And seems for me, that only an open for air reservoir is that difference. An air access is the main thing, which in my opinion, make you go every couple months through this cumbersome process of cleaning your loop. As access of air to the cooling liquid make it useless after couple of months depends on quality and ingredients of it. So I came to the question, how I can "close" (seal) custom loop to make it maintenance free but with all pros of a custom loop?
> 
> Let say I will build custom loop made of all usual elements, but I will fill up reservoir to the top or use a kind of sealed one to reduce air access to minimum.
> 
> Will this make it a closed loop and let me go maintenance free for long (2-3 years) as AIOs?
> 
> This is the question I will leave you for now and I count on a good brainstorm


AIO's are a complete pain in the ass compared to custom loops really, make a custom loop right and it'll last more than a year without significant maintanance. Jayztwocent's method of rinsing loops (drain and re-fill gradually with distilled water while the pumps running, then drain completely and re-fill with new coolant) is also a good method to do either every 9-12 months or if the coolant looks bad, blocks only need to be taken apart if the coolant gums up for whatever reason (which happens a lot with AIO's).

AIO's have the constant problem that they always have air inside and the pump can stall randomly, even if the radiator is well above the pump, they often also have a crappy single-phase spindle that vibrates and makes annoying noises, adding to that their complete lack of a reservoir makes them virtually impossible to top-up completely. The whole point of a reservoir is to catch air bubbles that come in over time as the liquid evaporates (which, contrary to what might be advertised, is completely unavoidable) and to replace it with spare fluid, you'll also find that it can take as long as a month for air bubbles in the loop to actually shift into the reservoir, so a good way to top it back up is very helpful.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I'll be blunt: you have wrong information about watercooling.
> A custom watercooling solution can last for 2-3 years without touching it at all except for opening the reservoir and topping it off with liquid lost through evaporation. The reasons it usually doesn't last that long is simple: owners are restless and they upgrade, expand, change components, change liquid, etc.
> 
> If you use very clean loop components, good colorless premade coolant and opaque, thick-walled tubing to minimize evaporation and light influence on coolant, 3 years is very much achievable.
> 
> Le: forgot to mention that air has no impact - no idea where you got that from.


I wouldn't leave coolant in a loop for more than a year really, too risky, but if you live somewhere like canada and the loop remains well below 40C you'd probably be fine up to 2 years.

Also; air, does in fact have an impact in the loop, depending on where it is it can either restrict the fluid flow or cause radiators and fittings to oxidise, and/or cause the coolant to oxidise and break down. Including silver and water, you end up with silver oxide dust in the loop, the only safe place air should be is in the reservoir, of which you should keep topped up as much as possible (though you don't have to be completely autistic about it, low flow prevents oxidation).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Rather than "upgrade" to X299, or migrate over to X399, I finally got around to adding the X99 Deluxe monoblock I've had my eye on for well over a year.
> 
> Very happy with VRM temps (never breaches 55 degrees C, even under an hours long AIDA64 load test, averages lower) and my highest attainable overclock (with reasonable voltage) is now stable at 4.5GHz on my 5930K.
> 
> Hours and hours of gaming in the low 40s Centigrade, across all cores.
> 
> 
> 
> *previously ran with a Supremacy EVO Plexi.


That CPU's still very competitive nowadays, even at stock it's equivalent to my 1600X, so very sensible that you would simply upgrade the cooling on it.
The only advantages a x399 system would have over it is efficiency and a lot more cores, if you even needed any more cores. x299 isn't really very efficient so there's next to no point upgrading to that platform, unless, again, you need more cores...


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Maybe. But Crosshair is AMD and X99/X299 are Intel so there's gonna be an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We'll see what he replies to me.


Unrelated topic.

I bought a GTX 980ti EOL WF3 FC block for a friend who finally got around to watercooling. I know the product is EOL but in the event there is a warrantable problem with the block, how does the warranty work if no more blocks are available? do you guys do a limited manufacturing run?


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Unrelated topic.
> 
> I bought a GTX 980ti EOL WF3 FC block for a friend who finally got around to watercooling. I know the product is EOL but in the event there is a warrantable problem with the block, how does the warranty work if no more blocks are available? do you guys do a limited manufacturing run?


The legal rule still applies that you either get a replacement, or refund, so in the off-chance they're completely out of replacement blocks you'll get a refund and have to revert/change the cooling you're using.

Or at least this is what applies in AU, I can only assume it's about the same everywhere else...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Rather than "upgrade" to X299, or migrate over to X399, I finally got around to adding the X99 Deluxe monoblock I've had my eye on for well over a year.
> 
> Very happy with VRM temps (never breaches 55 degrees C, even under an hours long AIDA64 load test, averages lower) and my highest attainable overclock (with reasonable voltage) is now stable at 4.5GHz on my 5930K.
> 
> Hours and hours of gaming in the low 40s Centigrade, across all cores.
> 
> 
> 
> *previously ran with a Supremacy EVO Plexi.


I'm about to snag a x99 Taichi instead of going to x299 or x399. Also trying to track down a 6900k for a deal so I can offload my 5930k
Don't really see a reason to "upgrade" 7900x I would only gain a few more cores and 4 more pci lanes


----------



## tistou77

With separate blocks, my VRM does not exceed 41°C with my 6950X @4.4ghz under Aida64 or Realbench
The monoblocks are "pretty" but less efficient than the separate blocks, I had had up to 5°C difference when I had tested


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> With separate blocks, my VRM does not exceed 41°C with my 6950X @4.4ghz under Aida64 or Realbench
> The monoblocks are "pretty" but less efficient than the separate blocks, I had had up to 5°C difference when I had tested


Very good to know, thanks for info! I will be using my CPU block then.


----------



## looniam

ok, now yous all have me wondering what the restriction difference between a mono block and separate cpu/vrm blocks.

not that i think it's any concern, just curious, anyone test? (VSG? ff?)


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> ok, now yous all have me wondering what the restriction difference between a mono block and separate cpu/vrm blocks.
> 
> not that i think it's any concern, just curious, anyone test? (VSG? ff?)


Couple of pages back ( more like 50-100...so not really couple..) I had tested nh-d15 vs monoblock vs cpu only block for M8I mobo and heavy OC on i7 7700k...CPU only block won by a 5-10 degree diff just because I had a weak pump at the time and I am sure it would'v been within margin of error with mono if I had a strong pump to make enough turbulence


----------



## war4peace

What I meant when I said about air was that the tiny bit of air usually staying at the top of the reservoir won't negatively affect the liquid.
I live in a country with 35+ degrees Celsius during summer and my ambient temps reach 28-29 degrees in the room, yet my coolant stays at 34 degrees while idle and no more than 41 degrees during load. I guess my aggressive fan setup helps.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> With separate blocks, my VRM does not exceed 41°C with my 6950X @4.4ghz under Aida64 or Realbench
> The monoblocks are "pretty" but less efficient than the separate blocks, I had had up to 5°C difference when I had tested


Very likely to do with pad thickness over the VRMs, fullcover blocks use a .5mm spacing over the VRMs in the offchance there's a design change, this applies to both motherboards and GPUs. Whereas if you use a dedicated VRM block you can tighten it to 0mm and use paste instead, assuming you also have a backplate to support it through the centre.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> (snip)
> Being you're in the EK thread, it'd be a good place to mention that EK sells a soft tubing that will also greatly reduce the rate of evaporation. It's a thick walled black tubing (though I forgot what it's called.)


Sounds like you're referring to EK's ZMT tubing


----------



## Paul17041993

Problem is most of the evaporation and air seepage goes through swivel fittings, so unless you were to go entirely without angle fittings (which is mostly fine with narrow tubes mind you), I don't think it'd make much of a difference...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> ok, now yous all have me wondering what the restriction difference between a mono block and separate cpu/vrm blocks.
> 
> not that i think it's any concern, just curious, anyone test? (VSG? ff?)


Monoblock is generally lower as it splits two parallel streams going to the CPU and VRM section vs the two separate blocks that are usually plumbed in series. Not a lot of difference, but there you go.


----------



## 550574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I'll be blunt: you have wrong information about watercooling.
> A custom watercooling solution can last for 2-3 years without touching it at all except for opening the reservoir and topping it off with liquid lost through evaporation. The reasons it usually doesn't last that long is simple: owners are restless and they upgrade, expand, change components, change liquid, etc.
> 
> If you use very clean loop components, good colorless premade coolant and opaque, thick-walled tubing to minimize evaporation and light influence on coolant, 3 years is very much achievable.
> 
> Le: forgot to mention that air has no impact - no idea where you got that from.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> I'm not sure if your post is trolling or not. On the one hand, it seems designed to stir people up (and it's probably in the wrong thread.) On the other, it's an interesting (if wrong) theory.
> 
> Next time you play with a CLC, shake it. Hear the noise of the water inside? It's actually not the sound of water. It's the sound of water moving through... air.
> 
> To verify, get a small water bottle or something you can seal. Fill it 1/2 way with water and close it. Shake. You'll hear noise. Now fill it 100% to the top (leaving NO AIR whatsoever.) Close and shake it. No noise.
> 
> CLC's have air inside their loops. They also do lose water over time to evaporation. They lose it more slowly than most (but not all) custom loops because of the tubing used (which slows evaporation) and I read once that they also add something to the water that slows evaporation (but I have no idea if that's true or not.)
> 
> Being you're in the EK thread, it'd be a good place to mention that EK sells a soft tubing that will also greatly reduce the rate of evaporation. It's a thick walled black tubing (though I forgot what it's called.)


Thank you gentlemen for quick brief. I was far from trolling. I really thought that I just designed wheel again







but thanks to you and after read a couple more topics in overclockers forum I am pretty sure that I will go eventually for custom loop.

I live in UK and 25 degrees is called here an heat wave







so I am not bothered at all about my ambient temperature. My whole point was just about maintenence (like cleaning blocks every year). I am planning to build a robust, not a beautiful loop as I need from it as less hassle as I can get. I posted here as I want to go full with EK parts. I will shortly come back here with my list of parts I am gonna/have to use, to ask you for advice.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> With separate blocks, my VRM does not exceed 41°C with my 6950X @4.4ghz under Aida64 or Realbench
> The monoblocks are "pretty" but less efficient than the separate blocks, I had had up to 5°C difference when I had tested
> 
> 
> 
> Very good to know, thanks for info! I will be using my CPU block then.
Click to expand...

In practice, I don't think there's much of a difference. VRMs are rated for more than double (up to triple) our reported temps, and my *average* VRM temp is in the 40s.

Also, none of these temps are comparable since we aren't talking Delta-T!


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulterey*
> 
> I am planning to build a robust, not a beautiful loop as I need from it as less hassle as I can get. I posted here as I want to go full with EK parts. I will shortly come back here with my list of parts I am gonna/have to use, to ask you for advice.


Many of us go into water cooling with the expectation of some maintenance, so the preventative measures taken are less than perfect. Here some generic thoughts on building a system that would require as little maintenance as possible for as long as possible. (All this is based on my own opinions):

1. Spend extra time cleaning radiators, tubing and blocks before your final fill. Every grain of dirt or particle of foreign matter that you get out of the radiator is one less particle that will eventually contribute to clogging your CPU block.

2. Use as few fittings as possible. You'll require at least two fittings per component in your system (just to interface the soft tubing to whatever component), but any extra couplers, elbows or T's that you add in are extra possible sources of leaks. (I _think_ I'd be accurate in saying that 90% of leaks in custom loops happen at fittings.) As well, each fitting has at least one o-ring that can deteriorate over time.

3. Use that ZMT tubing referenced in this thread. Check with others more knowledgeable than myself, but I believe that thicker walled tubing (regardless of inside diameter) will evaporate more slowly. (However, thicker walled tubing can be harder to work with, so there's a balance you'll have to find.)

4. Get and use only high reliability pump(s) such as a DDC or D5 pump. Don't get cheap or fancy with the pump. Some will suggest running two pumps (so if one fails, the other can keep water moving.) The offset there is that if either fails, you'll have to break down your loop to repair/replace/remove, and two pumps are (statistically) more likely to have one failure than one pump.

5. Don't use any dyes in your water. (You wouldn't be able to see the dye with the black tubing, and even if you could, it's only purpose is cosmetic.) Do use an anti-corrosion/anti-bacterial additive.

6. Use a larger reservoir (preferably one mounted directly on your pump to reduce the fitting count.) Larger res means more water reserve, as water will evaporate no matter what you do to slow it down.

7. Plan on draining and cleaning the loop yearly. You might not need to, but if anything unseen is growing in your loop it'd be best to flush it out before it becomes a problem.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> 2. Use as few fittings as possible. You'll require at least two fittings per component in your system (just to interface the soft tubing to whatever component), but any extra couplers, elbows or T's that you add in are extra possible sources of leaks. (I _think_ I'd be accurate in saying that 90% of leaks in custom loops happen at fittings.) As well, each fitting has at least one o-ring that can deteriorate over time.


I don't agree with this, tbh. I've got 16 fittings in my loop and it didn't leak once.
Also using T-splitters and extenders and such.

I use fittings instead of bending tubes and it has been running great for almost a yeat now. No issues whatsoever.

Just tighten them enough and you'll be fine. My fittings have double O-rings inside to minimize the risk of leakage.

Anything can cause a leak, not just having more fittings than necessary.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> I don't agree with this, tbh. I've got 16 fittings in my loop and it didn't leak once.


In your opinion, which of the following is more likely to require maintenance or leak:

1. A single piece of soft tube, bent 90 degrees (with a wide enough bend radius to prevent kinking) with a 2 compression fittings (one on each end)

2. Two pieces of soft tube, with a total of 4 compression fittings (two on each end of both pieces of soft tube) and a single 90 degree fitting (likely a rotary) in the middle.

I'm not saying that #2 is going to leak or even that it's likely to leak. I'm saying that #1 is LESS LIKELY to leak when compared to #2.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> In your opinion, which of the following is more likely to require maintenance or leak:
> 
> 1. A single piece of soft tube, bent 90 degrees (with a wide enough bend radius to prevent kinking) with a 2 compression fittings (one on each end)
> 
> 2. Two pieces of soft tube, with a total of 4 compression fittings (two on each end of both pieces of soft tube) and a single 90 degree fitting (likely a rotary) in the middle.
> 
> I'm not saying that #2 is going to leak or even that it's likely to leak. I'm saying that #1 is LESS LIKELY to leak when compared to #2.


If you like the look of adding extra fittings, just screw them tight and it won't matter, they both would be less likely to leak, if you do it right. Everything can leak, even option #1. So yeah, it's all relative.

I don't use soft tubing. Don't like the look of it.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> If you like the look of adding extra fittings, just screw them tight and it won't matter, they both would be less likely to leak, if you do it right. Everything can leak, even option #1. So yeah, it's all relative.


You avoided answering nicely.

The person I was replying to specifically stated that their highest priority was low maintenance. Less parts is less things to go wrong. Even a a fitting screwed tightly can leak if the o-ring is bad, and more fittings means more o-rings, and therefore a higher chance for one to be bad.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Problem is most of the evaporation and air seepage goes through swivel fittings, so unless you were to go entirely without angle fittings (which is mostly fine with narrow tubes mind you), I don't think it'd make much of a difference...


I am sorry but that is not true
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> I don't agree with this, tbh. I've got 16 fittings in my loop and it didn't leak once.
> 
> 
> 
> In your opinion, which of the following is more likely to require maintenance or leak:
> 
> 1. A single piece of soft tube, bent 90 degrees (with a wide enough bend radius to prevent kinking) with a 2 compression fittings (one on each end)
> 
> 2. Two pieces of soft tube, with a total of 4 compression fittings (two on each end of both pieces of soft tube) and a single 90 degree fitting (likely a rotary) in the middle.
> 
> I'm not saying that #2 is going to leak or even that it's likely to leak. I'm saying that #1 is LESS LIKELY to leak when compared to #2.
Click to expand...

neither. Most soft tubing leaches. And that is where most comes from. I have an expansion valve on mine (idr what ac calls it).

That's where Mine combed from.

I really have no idea where you made the claim about evaporation. But i am willing to look at any sort of support for your argument.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Problem is most of the evaporation and air seepage goes through swivel fittings, so unless you were to go entirely without angle fittings (which is mostly fine with narrow tubes mind you), I don't think it'd make much of a difference...
> 
> 
> 
> I am sorry but that is not true
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> I don't agree with this, tbh. I've got 16 fittings in my loop and it didn't leak once.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> In your opinion, which of the following is more likely to require maintenance or leak:
> 
> 1. A single piece of soft tube, bent 90 degrees (with a wide enough bend radius to prevent kinking) with a 2 compression fittings (one on each end)
> 
> 2. Two pieces of soft tube, with a total of 4 compression fittings (two on each end of both pieces of soft tube) and a single 90 degree fitting (likely a rotary) in the middle.
> 
> I'm not saying that #2 is going to leak or even that it's likely to leak. I'm saying that #1 is LESS LIKELY to leak when compared to #2.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> neither. Most soft tubing leaches. And that is where most comes from. I have an expansion valve on mine (idr what ac calls it).
> 
> That's where Mine combed from.
> 
> I really have no idea where you made the claim about evaporation. But i am willing to look at any sort of support for your argument.
Click to expand...

The vast majority of soft tubing is porous, and irrespective of evaporation, water *always* finds its way through just about anything. Bedrock, whatever.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> neither. Most soft tubing leaches. And that is where most comes from. I have an expansion valve on mine (idr what ac calls it).


You don't think a loop with twice as many fittings isn't more likely to leak?

Okay. I disagree, but we're all entitled to approach things differently.







To me, each part or fitting is another potential point of failure. I've never seen soft tubing itself leak, only junctions and fittings. So that I can be better informed, can you offer some reasoning why a single piece of soft tube with 2 fittings is just as likely to have a failure as 2 pieces of soft tube with 4 compression fittings and 1 90 degree fitting?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I really have no idea where you made the claim about evaporation. But i am willing to look at any sort of support for your argument.


huh? Oh, this is directed at the other person you quoted?

Take care
Gary


----------



## nycgtr

Most leaks come from angled or rotary fittings in my experience. However, every additional fitting is an additional point of failure. As for soft tubing leaking I do agree it has a higher chance than hard fittings. Reason being is once the compression collar goes on you can't really tell how the soft tube has been moved or squeezed. With soft tubing one can over estimate the tolerance of a bend and while not see a kink in the exposed areas, the cut end can sure be positioned in a very awkward angle under a compression collar creating a leak point.


----------



## crazycuz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Maybe. But Crosshair is AMD and X99/X299 are Intel so there's gonna be an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We'll see what he replies to me.


Akira,

I think he's referring to whether the Crosshair VI Hero monoblock works on the new Crosshair VI Extreme board. I'm hoping that's his question anyways







I have the crosshair VI extreme... when should I expect a new EK Crosshair VI Extreme monoblock that incorporates ASUS's new waterblock header and AURA lighting?









I need to put my new ryzen/vega system under water!!!


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pnJ3OYTDj

https://imageshack.com/i/pm0bZgoJj

My FTW3.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pnJ3OYTDj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pm0bZgoJj
> 
> 
> 
> My FTW3.


Purdy. Whacha gonna do with the diked cables on the card?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> neither. Most soft tubing leaches. And that is where most comes from. I have an expansion valve on mine (idr what ac calls it).
> 
> 
> 
> You don't think a loop with twice as many fittings isn't more likely to leak?
> 
> Okay. I disagree, but we're all entitled to approach things differently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To me, each part or fitting is another potential point of failure. I've never seen soft tubing itself leak, only junctions and fittings. So that I can be better informed, can you offer some reasoning why a single piece of soft tube with 2 fittings is just as likely to have a failure as 2 pieces of soft tube with 4 compression fittings and 1 90 degree fitting?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I really have no idea where you made the claim about evaporation. But i am willing to look at any sort of support for your argument.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> huh? Oh, this is directed at the other person you quoted?
> 
> Take care
> Gary
Click to expand...

I apologize I was (am) at work and i miss read your question. I though you were stating more evap could happen with more fittings
You were correct tigers is more possible points of failure.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Purdy. Whacha gonna do with the diked cables on the card?


What do you mean?.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> What do you mean?.


Maybe it's the angle of view, but in the first image, it sure looks like the eight pin power connections have diked (cut) wires going nowhere. If that's not the case, my bad.


----------



## khemist

https://postimages.org/

Must be the angle.


----------



## iamjanco

^ Yup


----------



## DarthBaggins

Of the Dangle







lol


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> ok, now yous all have me wondering what the restriction difference between a mono block and separate cpu/vrm blocks.
> 
> not that i think it's any concern, just curious, anyone test? (VSG? ff?)
> 
> 
> 
> Monoblock is generally lower as it splits two parallel streams going to the CPU and VRM section vs the two separate blocks that are usually plumbed in series. Not a lot of difference, but there you go.
Click to expand...

thank you


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> -
> (I _think_ I'd be accurate in saying that 90% of leaks in custom loops happen at fittings.)
> -
> Some will suggest running two pumps
> -


I would also agree that 90% are from angle fittings, particularly small ones that often need a wrench to actually tighten correctly, but often they leak a fraction in their actual swivel joint/s (twisting them around and push-pulling can rectify this half the time).

Two pumps are also needed if you have a super large radiator, of which you'd also want all your blocks in parallel so the loop has as much flow as possible. If you want to only use a single, affordable pump, use thin radiators and keep the blocks in series.


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazycuz2k*
> 
> Akira,
> 
> I think he's referring to whether the Crosshair VI Hero monoblock works on the new Crosshair VI Extreme board. I'm hoping that's his question anyways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the crosshair VI extreme... when should I expect a new EK Crosshair VI Extreme monoblock that incorporates ASUS's new waterblock header and AURA lighting?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to put my new ryzen/vega system under water!!!


Yes, that is my question. I asked it earlier in this thread as well and Akira said they would know in a few days...

It has now been a few days.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> Yes, that is my question. I asked it earlier in this thread as well and Akira said they would know in a few days...
> 
> It has now been a few days.


Haven't heard anything back about the standoff metal either, they still being silent @akira749?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> In your opinion, which of the following is more likely to require maintenance or leak:
> 
> 1. A single piece of soft tube, bent 90 degrees (with a wide enough bend radius to prevent kinking) with a 2 compression fittings (one on each end)
> 
> 2. Two pieces of soft tube, with a total of 4 compression fittings (two on each end of both pieces of soft tube) and a single 90 degree fitting (likely a rotary) in the middle.
> 
> I'm not saying that #2 is going to leak or even that it's likely to leak. I'm saying that #1 is LESS LIKELY to leak when compared to #2.


I agree that probably technically in a statistical sense that more fittings could introduce more possible failure but I believe the real practical differences are far more complicated and of very low frequency.
In a non corrosive and movement free application like pc water fittings orings once installed correctly are practically failure free. Much less than the compression seal on the tube itself.

So, I can make the argument that more fittings can be better than fewer.
Take a single piece of tube with a 90 degree bend Vs two pieces with 90 degree fitting joining them.
The heating and cooling of the loop over time and the softening and stiffening of the tube that goes with it places more stress on the bent tube compression joins than the two straight pieces.

Further, a rigid tube setup made of all oring joints is far stronger than a soft tube loop so in that sense more fittings is better.

The only failures I have ever had have been at the soft tube connections like compression collars or, the soft tubing causing a torque force in a fitting causing the fitting to loosen on its oring and leak.
Introducing more oring seal fittings to a loop to reduce the number of bent soft tube pieces can I believe mean a stronger practical loop.

I've never had a hard tube oring sealed fitting fail yet.

I would find it hard to believe that the real difference between a soft loop with few fittings and a hard loop with many would be more than trivial as be long as both are installed correctly. However it is easier to badly install the soft loop.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> I would find it hard to believe that the real difference between a soft loop with few fittings and a hard loop with many would be more than trivial as be long as both are installed correctly. However it is easier to badly install the soft loop.


If you build a loop properly it shouldn't ever leak at the tube fitting connections, regardless of if its soft or hard tubing, otherwise you simply haven't cut straight or tightened it enough. Swivel fittings however have the flaw that they need to be loose enough to swivel, which also means loose enough to not provide a 100% tight seal. This can be anywhere between enough-to-leak-but-evaporate and enough-to-drip as the coolant heats and cools with system use, and also as the coolant evaporates and creates positive pressure in the reservoir.


----------



## Mega Man

again not true.

i really dont know where you are getting this but it is straight fud.

swivel fittings swivel they dont need to be loose. they swivel whether or not they are tight.

they make "o" rings that make wonderful seals. these " o" rings *prevent* leaks. any questions ?

to go further, most of the o rings used in quality fittings are silicone. which means they dont leach.

i am sorry but your argument is severely flawed.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> again not true.
> 
> i really dont know where you are getting this but it is straight fud.
> 
> swivel fittings swivel they dont need to be loose. they swivel whether or not they are tight.
> 
> they make "o" rings that make wonderful seals. these " o" rings *prevent* leaks. any questions ?
> 
> to go further, most of the o rings used in quality fittings are silicone. which means they dont leach.
> 
> i am sorry but your argument is severely flawed.


You've never seen swivel fittings leak? Most of mine do after they've been shifted around unless I swivel and push-pull them to straighten the seal, you can also find reports of leaks for literally every brand of fitting. The simple fact is their motion allows the seal between the rings and surface of the metal to be created and destroyed, the surfaces are not perfectly round, nor smooth, and even the silicone used to help seal the gaps between the rings and metal can be shifted around and loose its distribution, or simply get pushed out of place by the shear pressure behind the tubing (water expands significantly with heat).


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> You've never seen swivel fittings leak? Most of mine do after they've been shifted around unless I swivel and push-pull them to straighten the seal, you can also find reports of leaks for literally every brand of fitting. The simple fact is their motion allows the seal between the rings and surface of the metal to be created and destroyed, the surfaces are not perfectly round, nor smooth, and even the silicone used to help seal the gaps between the rings and metal can be shifted around and loose its distribution, or simply get pushed out of place by the shear pressure behind the tubing (water expands significantly with heat).


I have a big variety of swivel fittings that I've been using for the last 3 or so years. Not one of them has leaked, and furthermore, they get quite a bit of abuse as I'm on an open test bed at the moment.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> If you build a loop properly it shouldn't ever leak at the tube fitting connections, regardless of if its soft or hard tubing, otherwise you simply haven't cut straight or tightened it enough. Swivel fittings however have the flaw that they need to be loose enough to swivel, which also means loose enough to not provide a 100% tight seal. This can be anywhere between enough-to-leak-but-evaporate and enough-to-drip as the coolant heats and cools with system use, and also as the coolant evaporates and creates positive pressure in the reservoir.


I have yet to have any of my rotary fittings leak. (touch wood) Out of quite a lot of black and Nickel finishes and 3 or 4 different brands.
I have seen people report it but I suspect they are either badly made/put together to begin with or their internal seals have deteriorated

The seal in them is not just a loose connection. It is an oring type seal just like the seal of a hard tube fitting. Like a hard tube fitting where you can twist the tube and the orings don't mind, the surfaces can rotate but the rubber seal is air tight. I have done many pressure tests of my rotarys.

I wouldn't call the expansion of water significant really. 1000ml going to about 1014ml is not a lot of extra through a whole loop. I get a noticeable pop of the seal on my loops if I open a port when warm but its only just noticeable.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> I have a big variety of swivel fittings that I've been using for the last 3 or so years. Not one of them has leaked, and furthermore, they get quite a bit of abuse as I'm on an open test bed at the moment.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> I have yet to have any of my rotary fittings leak. (touch wood) Out of quite a lot of black and Nickel finishes and 3 or 4 different brands.
> I have seen people report it but I suspect they are either badly made/put together to begin with or their internal seals have deteriorated
> 
> The seal in them is not just a loose connection. It is an oring type seal just like the seal of a hard tube fitting. Like a hard tube fitting where you can twist the tube and the orings don't mind, the surfaces can rotate but the rubber seal is air tight. I have done many pressure tests of my rotarys.
> 
> I wouldn't call the expansion of water significant really. 1000ml going to about 1014ml is not a lot of extra through a whole loop. I get a noticeable pop of the seal on my loops when warm but its only just noticeable.


What temps you two dealing with? and the difference between hard tubing seals and swivel seals is that hard tubing actually compresses the o-ring and removes its space and ability to move and break seal, you don't get such a feature with swivel fittings except for moving it around more to untwist the ring, if the ring twists slightly you get a broken seal.

My loop has to deal with peak temps of up to 55C, if I've changed the loop around slightly and haven't reset the swivel fittings at least half of them will actually start dripping when the system gets hot, of which I just move them around a bit and they seal back up again, this is due to the expansion rate between 15-55C.


----------



## Silent Scone

Yeah, perhaps that's where the difference is. We're not running a bath here. Mine peaks at 30c max.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> Sorry, I meant extreme version. I asked a few days back and you said you'd know in a few days if its compatible.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazycuz2k*
> 
> Akira,
> 
> I think he's referring to whether the Crosshair VI Hero monoblock works on the new Crosshair VI Extreme board. I'm hoping that's his question anyways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the crosshair VI extreme... when should I expect a new EK Crosshair VI Extreme monoblock that incorporates ASUS's new waterblock header and AURA lighting?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to put my new ryzen/vega system under water!!!


We now can confirm that the Crosshair VI Hero Monoblock is compatible with the Crosshair VI Extreme.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Unrelated topic.
> 
> I bought a GTX 980ti EOL WF3 FC block for a friend who finally got around to watercooling. I know the product is EOL but in the event there is a warrantable problem with the block, how does the warranty work if no more blocks are available? do you guys do a limited manufacturing run?


Depending on the work that need to be done under warranty, it will be a replacement of the part or a refund offer.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Haven't heard anything back about the standoff metal either, they still being silent @akira749?


I'm very sorry, I forgot to reply to you after I got the answer.









The stand-offs are nickel platted brass.


----------



## opt33

Never heard of water temp in a loop reaching 55C, if my water temp ever got above 35C I would fix that issue first.

Ive been watercooling about 20 years with 15 of those years using multiple different brands of rotaries, never had any leak. The bitspower rotaries I am currently using are about 12 years old, silver ones I painted black, still not leaking. Have some EK ones, they never leaked either.

I have seen reports of rotaries leaking over the years, some that came new leaking suggesting defective, some that leaked when under tension. When I first saw those, after assembling my loop I tried to make mine leak by putting rotaries under tension, ie pulling the tubing down or up...but couldnt even make mine leak. Some parts are just defective, you replace and move on.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> What temps you two dealing with? and the difference between hard tubing seals and swivel seals is that hard tubing actually compresses the o-ring and removes its space and ability to move and break seal, you don't get such a feature with swivel fittings except for moving it around more to untwist the ring, if the ring twists slightly you get a broken seal.
> 
> My loop has to deal with peak temps of up to 55C, if I've changed the loop around slightly and haven't reset the swivel fittings at least half of them will actually start dripping when the system gets hot, of which I just move them around a bit and they seal back up again, this is due to the expansion rate between 15-55C.


My temps are fairly high because I'm only using a single 280 rad these days. I was just talking about a 20C change in temp which is on the very high end of water loops for the water expansion.

I think you have a misconception regarding rotary fittings.
As seen here



The oring seals are compressed just like a hard tube fitting, between inner wall and outer wall in a locating groove. If they weren't compressed there would be no resistance to turning and of course that isn't the case. When they are dry they can be very stiff indeed. They simply wouldn't work without being compressed to form a seal so I'm not sure how exactly you envision them working.

How on earth do you get a 40C temp change on the coolant.? Personally I get about 20C at most from ambient to full load temp and that is with a single rad at low fan speeds.

I use air pressure to leak test my system and I have tested my hard tube fittings and rotarys up to 20psi, Thats far higher than I would ever subject the rest of the system to like the rads and blocks but I never had any leaking. The hard tube fittings would just blow off the tube when pressure was high enough.


----------



## crazycuz2k

Akira,

Bitspower is releasing a monoblock for the Crosshair VI extreme that works with the special waterblock header/sensor that measures temps/flow. Is EK planning on releasing one as well?

Thanks,

Chris


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazycuz2k*
> 
> Akira,
> 
> Bitspower is releasing a monoblock for the Crosshair VI extreme that works with the special waterblock header/sensor that measures temps/flow. Is EK planning on releasing one as well?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Chris


Our Crosshair VI Hero Monoblock is compatible with the Extreme so we won't release one specific for the Extreme.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Our Crosshair VI Hero Monoblock is compatible with the Extreme so we won't release one specific for the Extreme.


Thanks for the update!


----------



## d0mmie

I just took my loop apart today for maintenance and I noticed some powder like buildup inside my EK-ACF 16/10 fittings (nickle). Unfortunately I can't show a picture of it because I cleaned them all (doh). It was easy to clean off with a q tip and was a bit yellowish in color, kinda looked like chalk but I really can't explain where it would have come from.

The more interesting thing was that there was nothing of the same on my Bitspower adapters, nor inside my hoses or anything noticeable in my reservoir. Any ideas to what this is, and should I be concerned about it at all?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I just took my loop apart today for maintenance and I noticed some powder like buildup inside my EK-ACF 16/10 fittings (nickle). Unfortunately I can't show a picture of it because I cleaned them all (doh). It was easy to clean off with a q tip and was a bit yellowish in color, kinda looked like chalk but I really can't explain where it would have come from.
> 
> The more interesting thing was that there was nothing of the same on my Bitspower adapters, nor inside my hoses or anything noticeable in my reservoir. Any ideas to what this is, and should I be concerned about it at all?


soft tubing?


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> soft tubing?


Yes, EK ZMT rubber hose


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opt33*
> 
> Never heard of water temp in a loop reaching 55C, if my water temp ever got above 35C I would fix that issue first.


Do you live in Antarctica? What are your ambient temps where you live? Every loop I've ever created, temps will get to 55c under stress testing at an absolute max.

I'd absolutely love for you to show a water temp of 35c under stress test or long periods of gaming. I just simply don't believe you have never seen temps over 35c unless your ambient temp where you live is around 10c year round.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> Do you live in Antarctica? What are your ambient temps where you live? Every loop I've ever created, temps will get to 55c under stress testing at an absolute max.
> 
> I'd absolutely love for you to show a water temp of 35c under stress test or long periods of gaming. I just simply don't believe you have never seen temps over 35c unless your ambient temp where you live is around 10c year round.


There you go.
Ambient temperature of 23-24 degrees Celsius, CPU under stress the whole time (6800K overclocked to 4125 MHz), liquid temperature reaches 35 degrees Celsius at which point fan speeds slowly ramp up to a maximum of 800 RPM to keep the liquid temperature at the set target of 35 degrees Celsius.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> again not true.
> 
> i really dont know where you are getting this but it is straight fud.
> 
> swivel fittings swivel they dont need to be loose. they swivel whether or not they are tight.
> 
> they make "o" rings that make wonderful seals. these " o" rings *prevent* leaks. any questions ?
> 
> to go further, most of the o rings used in quality fittings are silicone. which means they dont leach.
> 
> i am sorry but your argument is severely flawed.
> 
> 
> 
> You've never seen swivel fittings leak? Most of mine do after they've been shifted around unless I swivel and push-pull them to straighten the seal, you can also find reports of leaks for literally every brand of fitting. The simple fact is their motion allows the seal between the rings and surface of the metal to be created and destroyed, the surfaces are not perfectly round, nor smooth, and even the silicone used to help seal the gaps between the rings and metal can be shifted around and loose its distribution, or simply get pushed out of place by the shear pressure behind the tubing (water expands significantly with heat).
Click to expand...

You keep obfuscating.

Anything can leak.

You keep stating that rotories are a cause of evaporation because of a loose seal....


----------



## emsj86

Always find it odd when you get people literally just making things they read facts. Anything can leak. There isn't a fitting out there that if you
Search hasn't had a leak problem from someone. What does help prevent leak on rotary fittings is to bend the tubes properly and not have the tube bend down on The fitting. This usually is the cause of the leak or failed fitting


----------



## Mega Man

but he isnt talking about leaks, till he obfuscates. he is talking about evaporation through the rotories
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Problem is most of the evaporation and air seepage goes through swivel fittings, so unless you were to go entirely without angle fittings (which is mostly fine with narrow tubes mind you), I don't think it'd make much of a difference...


*they either leak or dont*, they dont just let evaporation out / air out/ air in and not let water out. this is false, and i have tried to tell him he is wrong, nicely, bluntly .... he just goes in circles about leaks.

if you have a leak, fix it, can fittings leak? yes, so can tubing, blocks, screw holes.......


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ek Block anyone?




More in the Log.

TCO


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> but he isnt talking about leaks, till he obfuscates. he is talking about evaporation through the rotories
> *they either leak or dont*, they dont just let evaporation out / air out/ air in and not let water out. this is false, and i have tried to tell him he is wrong, nicely, bluntly .... he just goes in circles about leaks.
> 
> if you have a leak, fix it, can fittings leak? yes, so can tubing, blocks, screw holes.......


You've heard of viscosity right? under low pressure, fluids will resist motion through small gaps, to a point that it doesn't appear to have a leak, but once you add a fraction of back pressure the fluid can be pushed through. Also, what I mean by evaporation through seals is an ever so small amount of leakage, of which the fluid evaporates on contact with the outer air, you can often feel this as a dampness around the seal but without any visible sign of fluid.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Always find it odd when you get people literally just making things they read facts. Anything can leak. There isn't a fitting out there that if you search hasn't had a leak problem from someone. What does help prevent leak on rotary fittings is to bend the tubes properly and not have the tube bend down on The fitting. This usually is the cause of the leak or failed fitting


Exactly, unless someone makes a locking swivel fitting (ie; one that has a central ring you can tighten up), they will always have the potential to leak, sometimes a lot, sometimes not enough to be detectable.


----------



## opt33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> Do you live in Antarctica? What are your ambient temps where you live? Every loop I've ever created, temps will get to 55c under stress testing at an absolute max.
> 
> I'd absolutely love for you to show a water temp of 35c under stress test or long periods of gaming. I just simply don't believe you have never seen temps over 35c unless your ambient temp where you live is around 10c year round.


my cpu temps average around 60C gaming. gpu temps average 40's gaming. my water temp maxes around 32C gaming (with 24C ambients) so my delta air to water is ~8C gaming. Pretty normal loop.

your either confusing cpu/gpu temps with water temps, or your water loop is so bad you would be better off on air.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> Do you live in Antarctica? What are your ambient temps where you live? Every loop I've ever created, temps will get to 55c under stress testing at an absolute max.
> 
> I'd absolutely love for you to show a water temp of 35c under stress test or long periods of gaming. I just simply don't believe you have never seen temps over 35c unless your ambient temp where you live is around 10c year round.


Component temperature and water temperature are two different things. If your water really is reaching 55C, you're skirting rather close to tubing and/or O-ring failure ranges. If it's your cpu or gpu core that's sitting at 55C under load, that's very different.


----------



## B3L13V3R

I think I have a problem...


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> I think I have a problem...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I agree. However, if you just get a microfiber cloth, you could wipe those fingerprints off the backplates and all would be well again.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> I think I have a problem...


My name is B3L13V3R and I have a problem








We need an addiction thread...

Off that topic, I'm disappointed EK. I like soft tubes because I can play with the computer parts easily. I put in an orange dye which looked pink, cleaned it out after a couple of days and now my EK soft tubing is stained... Pretty pink computer until I buy more tubes. Hmmm


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Component temperature and water temperature are two different things. If your water really is reaching 55C, you're skirting rather close to tubing and/or O-ring failure ranges. If it's your cpu or gpu core that's sitting at 55C under load, that's very different.


In my case 55C is unavoidable, summer ambients reach 50C, so hence why I went with a monsta 420 rad with high RPM fans despite only having a single GPU.


----------



## war4peace

Again... are we talking about liquid temperatures or CPU/GPU core temperatures? Very different things.


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> I think I have a problem...


Those RVE monoblocks are near impossible to get now. Especially the plexi one :I


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> In my case 55C is unavoidable, summer ambients reach 50C, so hence why I went with a monsta 420 rad with high RPM fans despite only having a single GPU.


Ah, I could see where that could cause some issues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Again... are we talking about liquid temperatures or CPU/GPU core temperatures? Very different things.


Given that it was mentioned ambient temperatures are upwards of 50C (yes, such places do exist in the world!) that makes it a delta of only 5C for water temp, which is a lot more in line with what is considered "standard" by a lot of people.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> I agree. However, if you just get a microfiber cloth, you could wipe those fingerprints off the backplates and all would be well again


I know, I know... also need to wipe the VGA labels off. Been too lazy and busy...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> My name is B3L13V3R and I have a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need an addiction thread...


INDEED!! 5 step style...


----------



## Ragsters

Has anyone had trouble putting on the EK m.2 heatsink on their Samsung Evo? The clip fits on one side but not the other. Next thing Im going to try is putting the 1mm pad on both sides of the chip instead of just the backplate side.


----------



## Game4it

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Has anyone had trouble putting on the EK m.2 heatsink on their Samsung Evo? The clip fits on one side but not the other. Next thing Im going to try is putting the 1mm pad on both sides of the chip instead of just the backplate side.


Make sure the clips are in the grooves and even then its a tight fit.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Has anyone had trouble putting on the EK m.2 heatsink on their Samsung Evo? The clip fits on one side but not the other. Next thing Im going to try is putting the 1mm pad on both sides of the chip instead of just the backplate side.


Did you take the stickers off? They are just thick enough to make it hard from what some of the reviews have stated. I took them off anyway for thermal purposes, even though it only gains me about ~5C. But it fits perfectly...



Sory for the crappy pic. Just for reference on fit... no probs.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Game4it*
> 
> Make sure the clips are in the grooves and even then its a tight fit.


Yes. In the grooves.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Did you take the stickers off? They are just thick enough to make it hard from what some of the reviews have stated. I took them off anyway for thermal purposes, even though it only gains me about ~5C. But it fits perfectly...
> 
> 
> 
> Sory for the crappy pic. Just for reference on fit... no probs.


Do you mean the Samsung sticker? Also, did you guys notice that two of the memory chips are bigger than the others? Thats the side where the clip wont fit.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Yes. In the grooves.
> Do you mean the Samsung sticker? Also, did you guys notice that two of the memory chips are bigger than the others? Thats the side where the clip wont fit.


Oh wow! No. I didn't have that issue. I wonder if that has anything to do with IC shortage and sourcing. And yes, I meant the stickers on the card itself. There is one on each side. I took them both off and saved them in case of warranty / RMA.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Oh wow! No. I didn't have that issue. I wonder if that has anything to do with IC shortage and sourcing. And yes, I meant the stickers on the card itself. There is one on each side. I took them both off and saved them in case of warranty / RMA.


Here is what I just did in order for it to work. So the side where the chips are, according to the diagram, you are supposed to put the 1mm pad there. The other side, where the back plate is, the 0.5 mm pad goes there. I put the 0.5mm pad as directed on the back side but for the chip side I put half of a 1mm pad and the other half with the 0.5mm pad. This made it equal out and fit perfectly snug. I wonder if EK should know about this.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Oh wow! No. I didn't have that issue. I wonder if that has anything to do with IC shortage and sourcing. And yes, I meant the stickers on the card itself. There is one on each side. I took them both off and saved them in case of warranty / RMA.


If you take the sticker off you'll void your warranty even if you keep them, says so on Samsung's site.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Again... are we talking about liquid temperatures or CPU/GPU core temperatures? Very different things.


Peak coolant temp detected by the two probes in the radiator.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Peak coolant temp detected by the two probes in the radiator.


I assume you have the case in a different room then, because exposure to 50*c ambient temps for a prolonged amount of time can really f**k with the human body (even if you are used to it). Heck I start struggling as soon as it gets hotter than 25*c, but that's what I get for living just south of the polar circle. On a different note, things like phase changing coolers might actually be a good idea for those ambient temps, or you know and AC also works.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> If you take the sticker off you'll void your warranty even if you keep them, says so on Samsung's site.


Yeah well welcome to our world.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Yeah well welcome to our world.


I took mine off my NVMe, because I didn't care and because it wasn't a Samsung and was a lot cheaper than a Samsung.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Peak coolant temp detected by the two probes in the radiator.


Very strange. Now I understand in some areas of the world temperatures can rise to insane levels but are you really keeping your computer exposed to those ambient temperatures? I mean, okay, liquid cooling helps CPU/GPU, but what do you do with HDDs, VRMs, SSDs, not to mention RAM and the dreaded NVMe M.2 SSDs?
My Patriot Hellfire gets to 60-62 degrees Celsius just idling around at 28 degrees ambient.


----------



## AllGamer

*Is it normal for Cooling Fluid to evaporate from the loop?*

There is no leak, yet some how the Cooling Fluid has evaporated aprox 1 inch from the EK reservoir. I checked the Res Lid, it's very tight.

Using Mayhem X1 coolant, blue, so I'll know if there's any leak.

I diluted a 250ml into 1 little of distilled water.

The Reservoir was almost full with 1 inch empty space from the top cover, but now is aprox 2 inch, yet I don't see any fluid drop (leak) anywhere, so I was pondering if it's normal for Cooling Fluid to evaporate from the loop.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yes fluid can evaporate over time


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yes fluid can evaporate over time


Thanks! just wanted to confirm.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *Is it normal for Cooling Fluid to evaporate from the loop?*
> 
> There is no leak, yet some how the Cooling Fluid has evaporated aprox 1 inch from the EK reservoir. I checked the Res Lid, it's very tight.
> 
> Using Mayhem X1 coolant, blue, so I'll know if there's any leak.
> 
> I diluted a 250ml into 1 little of distilled water.
> 
> The Reservoir was almost full with 1 inch empty space from the top cover, but now is aprox 2 inch, yet I don't see any fluid drop (leak) anywhere, so I was pondering if it's normal for Cooling Fluid to evaporate from the loop.


If it's freshly filled, it's because air remaining in the loop gathered in the reservoir.
If it's not fresh and it's been a while since you looked at it, it's evaporation.
Another lesser encountered occurrence would be that air trapped in a radiator somewhere got freed and ended up in the reservoir (due to tilting of the case, vibrations, etc.)


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I assume you have the case in a different room then, because exposure to 50*c ambient temps for a prolonged amount of time can really f**k with the human body (even if you are used to it). Heck I start struggling as soon as it gets hotter than 25*c, but that's what I get for living just south of the polar circle. On a different note, things like phase changing coolers might actually be a good idea for those ambient temps, or you know and AC also works.


You struggle with temps above 25C? Lol. In our part of the world, 25C is already a cold ambient temp. 33C is the normal ambient temp here.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> You struggle with temps above 25C? Lol. In our part of the world, 25C is already a cold ambient temp. 33C is the normal ambient temp here.


I do, but I have no issues with -20*c. So... yeah, either way 50*c is hella hot.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> If it's *freshly filled*, it's because air remaining in the loop gathered in the reservoir.
> If it's not fresh and it's been a while since you looked at it, it's evaporation.
> Another lesser encountered occurrence would be that *air trapped in a radiator somewhere got freed* and ended up in the reservoir (due to tilting of the case, vibrations, etc.)


Yes, the loop is fairly new, like 2 weeks old.

Most of the bubbles have dissipated, and 1 of the Radiator is upside down (meaning the G1/4 are at the bottom) that one I suspected air will get trapped on the top.

There used to be small bubbles stuck to the inner face of the Reservoir, now they are all gone.

I guess with all of the bubbles out of the way, ... wow 1 inch worth of liquid


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Yes, the loop is fairly new, like 2 weeks old.
> 
> Most of the bubbles have dissipated, and 1 of the Radiator is upside down (meaning the G1/4 are at the bottom) that one I suspected air will get trapped on the top.
> 
> There used to be small bubbles stuck to the inner face of the Reservoir, now they are all gone.
> 
> I guess with all of the bubbles out of the way, ... wow 1 inch worth of liquid


That does seem like a lot. Mine sort of did the same thing here just recently when I re did my loop. I'm guessing with that much it's probably a combo of both condensation and trapped air.

I probably lost a half inch or more on mine. Had to top it off.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I do, but I have no issues with -20*c. So... yeah, either way 50*c is hella hot.


Are you guys like over here, where once the temps finally go below -20C you start seeing the postal guys actually wearing pants?









-20C is bliss. 30C... No thanks, I'll take cold temperatures any day.


----------



## kevindd992002

Exactly. People over here crave for cold weather but we don't have winter. It's either dry and wet season not to mention that humidity is around 70% on average.


----------



## iamjanco

-20C? Been there done that. The past few years we've hit no lower than -20F, though it can occasionally get down to -30F here when the winds blow in from the north. -35F is a dry cold









46 degrees (F) currently where I'm at, 50 miles from the Canadian border, south of the I87/15 border crossing, with Montreal north of us. Ambient can get pretty low here if you leave the windows open and turn off the heat.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Very strange. Now I understand in some areas of the world temperatures can rise to insane levels but are you really keeping your computer exposed to those ambient temperatures? I mean, okay, liquid cooling helps CPU/GPU, but what do you do with HDDs, VRMs, SSDs, not to mention RAM and the dreaded NVMe M.2 SSDs?
> My Patriot Hellfire gets to 60-62 degrees Celsius just idling around at 28 degrees ambient.


It'd cost a whole new ducted AC unit and a new roof to get proper AC working in this house, so for the most part I just have to stick with the high temps. A neat solution that other people here have used is copper piping, concrete and a deep hole, basically acting as a heat tank that gets chilled by the ground and water table (if the hole's deep enough for your area), but that's a lot of effort I cant really be ass'ed dealing with...

SSD's and HDD's don't really care that much about high temps (they're low power), in my case with a RAID the case has a 180mm fan blowing onto them which keeps them about the same temp as ambient. But with the M.2 drive I got I also got EK's passive heatsink just to give it that extra surface area, even though it's also a relatively low power drive.

The one problem with devices overheating, other than the 290X throttling from air and hybrid cooling or making a lot of noise otherwise, was my old X-Fi forte that needed a fan to be strapped to the heatsink, otherwise it'd corrupt the audio it'd output. Most hardware simply isn't affected by high ambient, but the main issue often is that the reduced potential delta means that air cooling has to be a lot more aggressive to stop things like your CPU and GPU from throttling (both core and VRM temps), even with large heatsinks. I had originally gone with a lot of different cooling methods with air and AIO coolers, but none of them could keep the system from being heard across the house, so I simply went with a proper D5 water loop and the largest possible radiator I could rig to the case, of which I then upgraded to a dual-D5 because I realised the rad needs a lot more flow than what a basic D5 loop provides. Even though I only really run this system at stock the loop keeps the system at max performance with low noise, especially when compared to the other systems in the house that have air cooling and are always noisy under load.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *Is it normal for Cooling Fluid to evaporate from the loop?*


Yes, mainly because of the water base, but any smell you get from coolant is also evaporating chemicals (often the biocide/s).
When you fill or re-fill a loop however, it can also take up to a month for all the air bubbles to settle into the reservoir completely, so that's also something that can make it look like you've lost a lot of coolant.


----------



## Gilles3000

Its pretty cool that EK is now offering expansion kits for their aluminum Fluid Gaming line-up. But what going on with those *prices*?!

The 240mm EK-FG *Aluminium* radiator with accessories is *€ 89.21*

An EK-SE 240mm *Copper* radiator with the same accessories is *€ 87.14*, that's right, about *€2 less* than the aluminum kit.

Its nice that you offer expand-ability for these kits, but this just feels like you're trying to rip off your customers.


Spoiler: SE240


----------



## datwitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Its pretty cool that EK is now offering expansion kits for their aluminum Fluid Gaming line-up. But what going on with those *prices*?!
> 
> The 240mm EK-FG *Aluminium* radiator with accessories is *€ 89.21*
> 
> An EK-SE 240mm *Copper* radiator with the same accessories is *€ 87.14*, that's right, about *€2 less* than the aluminum kit.
> 
> Its nice that you offer expand-ability for these kits, but this just feels like you're trying to rip off your customers.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: SE240


you've added different fans than the kit, should be F3-120 which is €14.70 each.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *datwitch*
> 
> you've added different fans than the kit, should be F3-120 which is €14.70 each.


You're right, still only a €5 difference. My point still stands.


----------



## fireedo

I have been interested about custom watercooling especially EKWB product,
my question is there will be big difference if I choose to use custom watercooling then AIO on my intel 2066 or Skylake-X cpu? with the same ambient temp,am I will be getting enough head room for overclocking when using custom watercooling?

if using a custom watercooling I can get around 15-20 degree celcius different then an AIO watercooling so it really worth it

anyone can help me to confirm this?

thankyou


----------



## nyk20z3

Is this normal ?

I had EK Acid Green coolant sitting in the block for color testing for about 2 weeks, I pulled the block out today to test fit and it looks like coolant made its way to the plate on the middle of the block. There was no pressure going through the block so how is this possible ?



Full Build -


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Is this normal ?
> 
> I had EK Acid Green coolant sitting in the block for color testing for about 2 weeks, I pulled the block out today to test fit and it looks like coolant made its way to the plate on the middle of the block. There was no pressure going through the block so how is this possible ?
> 
> 
> 
> Full Build -


It is normal. There is no seal or O-ring in the middle part. So it happens. That's one of the reasons why I don't buy Plexi blocks.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireedo*
> 
> I have been interested about custom watercooling especially EKWB product,
> my question is there will be big difference if I choose to use custom watercooling then AIO on my intel 2066 or Skylake-X cpu? with the same ambient temp,am I will be getting enough head room for overclocking when using custom watercooling?
> 
> if using a custom watercooling I can get around 15-20 degree celcius different then an AIO watercooling so it really worth it
> 
> anyone can help me to confirm this?
> 
> thankyou


In my experience it's not that useful talking about temperature difference. Watercooling loops don't work like that. All cooling will be the same temp up to a certain load, depending on the quality of the tim / plate thing that goes onto the CPU, and after a certain point, your load overwhelms the capacity of the water to dissipate it.
My i9 7900 skylake X produces about 275 watts of heat under full load with my overclock. This takes 1 good quality 420 radiator to get rid of the heat produced (I have another rad - a 360, for overkill).
I don't know what you can get in AIO these days! But, if you got, say, a 360 rad AIO, you would either have to limit your overclock or go for a CPU with less cores.
That's the beauty of a custom loop. If you decide to get a faster CPU or overclock it more, you can simply add another rad and/or get a bigger one.
GPU is another heat source but lets not add confusion at this point








Hope this helps.


----------



## fireedo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> In my experience it's not that useful talking about temperature difference. Watercooling loops don't work like that. All cooling will be the same temp up to a certain load, depending on the quality of the tim / plate thing that goes onto the CPU, and after a certain point, your load overwhelms the capacity of the water to dissipate it.
> My i9 7900 skylake X produces about 275 watts of heat under full load with my overclock. This takes 1 good quality 420 radiator to get rid of the heat produced (I have another rad - a 360, for overkill).
> I don't know what you can get in AIO these days! But, if you got, say, a 360 rad AIO, you would either have to limit your overclock or go for a CPU with less cores.
> That's the beauty of a custom loop. If you decide to get a faster CPU or overclock it more, you can simply add another rad and/or get a bigger one.
> GPU is another heat source but lets not add confusion at this point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


well thankyou, that help me a lot,








my AIO 280 rad not sufficient to kill the heat from my overclocked 7820x, well I think I will pick 360 rad with custom watercooling plus a monoblock from EK then


----------



## 550574

OK, guys as you convinced me to do custom loop I have question. I have Corsair Obsidian 650d and I can't change it, so I am restricted to this space. I am planning to fit in it i9 7900x with 128GB ram and 1 x GTX 1080ti both hooked up to custom loop incl VRM (monoblock). I may go little overclock on CPU and GPU but only a bit to keep them stable for everyday use. My goal is to get as quieter system as I can, so I was planning to fit two rads into this case, one 280 on the top, pulling air up, out the case and one 240 on the front pulling air into the case.
Is this setting is fairly efficient and I could run it on low rpm to get good cooling or you suggest different approach?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulterey*
> 
> OK, guys as you convinced me to do custom loop I have question. I have Corsair Obsidian 650d and I can't change it, so I am restricted to this space. I am planning to fit in it i9 7900x with 128GB ram and 1 x GTX 1080ti both hooked up to custom loop incl VRM (monoblock). I may go little overclock on CPU and GPU but only a bit to keep them stable for everyday use. My goal is to get as quieter system as I can, so I was planning to fit two rads into this case, one 280 on the top, pulling air up, out the case and one 240 on the front pulling air into the case.
> Is this setting is fairly efficient and I could run it on low rpm to get good cooling or you suggest different approach?


If you are not planning to OC then a 280+240 will be a decent setup for a GTX 1080 TI + CPU

However... if you do plan to OC that setup, the 280+240 will not offer enough cooling for both of these hot cakes.

You'll need at least a couple of 360 Rads to offer enough cooling for that setup if you plan to OC.

The alternative is to use a Chiller in your loop, but then you'l need to figure out space to add another PSU just for the Chiller

Or use an external chiller and not have to worry about any of the above.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulterey*
> 
> Is this setting is fairly efficient and I could run it on low rpm to get good cooling or you suggest different approach?


How are you planning to fit a 240mm raditor up front, are you planning to or have you already modded the case to be able to do so? Because Iirc, the 650D only accepts 1x 200mm fan up front. Either way i don't think a single 240&280 would do that well with low rpm fans.

What I would do, especially if you don't want to modify the case.

Throw out the HDD bays.
Get the least terrible 200mm fan just for air intake. (Noctua NF-A20 PWM?)
Use the rear 120mm fan as intake
Mount one 280mm radiator as to exhaust
Use an additional external 420mm radiator. (XSPC AX420 with AX Radiator Desk Stand?)
Optionally use quick disconnects for the external radiator.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Or use an external chiller and not have to worry about any of the above.


An external radiator would be a more cost effective and practical solution than a chiller don't you think?


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulterey*





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







If I done this in a Fractal Design Nano S...You can do it for sure in Corsair 650d

CPU at 1.410v + llv 6 @ 5.2 / 5.0 Cache / 1 Avx offset
RAM 32 GB 2x16 @ 3733 1.410v
GPU 1080 TI at 2025 -2050

Temps:
24-25 Ambient
30-31 In case air Temp
35-36 stabilized water temp in loop (Taken from reservoir)

CPU - Spikes of 78-79 in 8h stress test....high 50s in games
GPU - Spikes of 48 in 8h stress test...38-39 in games.

2x rads - Top is EK SE (30 mm slim 240 Rad) - Front Thick EK XE 60 mm 240 Rad)
Top and back intake...Front exhaust


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> An external radiator would be a more cost effective and practical solution than a chiller don't you think?


my bad should have use it's actual name

I meant a Peltier, that's why I mentioned the need for space for the spare PSU to power the Peltier

So a 280+240 rad + the Peltier somewhere in that loop, then he'll have proper cooling.


----------



## emsj86

You will spend more money to use the 650d than buying a new case. I suggest a fractal case less than 100 dollars and it will give you what you need while looking nice.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> my bad should have use it's actual name
> 
> I meant a Peltier, that's why I mentioned the need for space for the spare PSU to power the Peltier
> 
> So a 280+240 rad + the Peltier somewhere in that loop, then he'll have proper cooling.


That's not how Peltiers(TEC's) work, that's not how they work at all. TEC's are heatpumps and are far from 100% efficient, so if you just place a TEC in your loop, all you're doing is dumping all the power its consuming into your loop as heat.

There are 2 ways to use a TEC:

Directly on the CPU/GPU, in which case u need a spec TEC block and much more cooling capability as you need to cool the heat output of the component you're cooling + all the heat the TEC is producing, even just to reach the same temps al it would without the TEC you'd be producing way more het and consuming more power. You also need to insulate the socket, everything around the socket, the CPU and the cold side of the TEC in case you go below ambient.
Use two loops with the TEC in between, resulting in a cold and hot side, this has as an advantage that you can use more TEC's, its a bit more efficient but now you have to insulate the entire cold loop.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> 
> Use two loops with the TEC in between, resulting in a cold and hot side, this has as an advantage that you can use more TEC's, its a bit more efficient but now you have to insulate the entire cold loop.


That's exactly what I had in mind, just in fewer words

The hot side will go with the 280+240 rad,

the cold side doesn't need rad as it's just circulating the fluid within the loop.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> That's exactly what I had in mind, just in fewer words
> 
> The hot side will go with the 280+240 rad,
> 
> the cold side doesn't need rad as it's just circulating the fluid within the loop.


That won't work. How are you planning to cool an overclocked 7900X, overclocked 1080Ti and a TEC setup powerful enough to pump all that heat(That's at least an additional 300W), with just a 240&280 with low rpm fans?


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> That's exactly what I had in mind, just in fewer words
> 
> The hot side will go with the 280+240 rad,
> 
> the cold side doesn't need rad as it's just circulating the fluid within the loop.


What he's trying to say is the power consumed by running the TEC is dumped into the loop. It's like adding another video card running full throttle any time your machine is running.
Not many people run a TEC because in most cases it's pointless power dumping. It's like literally taking paper money and lighting it on fire when it comes to you're power bill unless you got a scientific reason for running one.

It's just another case of this sounds great, I'ma be unique when it in reality it is a pretty dumb thing to do unless you just like to tinker.


----------



## fireedo

will a slim 360 radiator enough to cooling my overclock 7820x?

I will run @ 4.6 with 1.20v daily and my PC case is corsair carbide 400c, so I have measured everything and my only option is using an EK-CoolStream SE 360 (26mm rad)

so will that enough?

or other option are put EK XE series 360 rad (60mm) at front and EK PE series 280 rad (40mm) at top but front PC case cover + dust filter have to be remove also top dust filter

since I have a long GTX 1080 Ti card (320 mm), front radiator option is limited if I want to use fans and radiator inside PC case

Note :
I just want to cool my cpu and vrm using EK Monoblock, my gpu is at safe temp


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireedo*
> 
> will a slim 360 radiator enough to cooling my overclock 7820x?
> 
> I will run @ 4.6 with 1.20v daily and my PC case is corsair carbide 400c, so I have measured everything and my only option is using an EK-CoolStream SE 360 (26mm rad)
> 
> so will that enough?
> 
> or other option are put EK XE series 360 rad (60mm) at front and EK PE series 280 rad (40mm) at top but front PC case cover + dust filter have to be remove also top dust filter
> 
> since I have a long GTX 1080 Ti card (320 mm), front radiator option is limited if I want to use fans and radiator inside PC case
> 
> Note :
> I just want to cool my cpu and vrm using EK Monoblock, my gpu is at safe temp


I think the slim 360 will be enough with low ambients, however by putting the rad at the front you'll end up worsening your GPU's air cooling, so the top rad may be more ideal in that sense...

I would try the slim 360 first for a while, if the temps are bad you can then add the 280 to the top later, putting it before the 360 in the loop so that it dumps most of the heat outside the case first.


----------



## fireedo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> I think the slim 360 will be enough with low ambients, however by putting the rad at the front you'll end up worsening your GPU's air cooling, so the top rad may be more ideal in that sense...
> 
> I would try the slim 360 first for a while, if the temps are bad you can then add the 280 to the top later, putting it before the 360 in the loop so that it dumps most of the heat outside the case first.


what if I set front as an exhaust and top as an intake? also single rear fan as an exhaust


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireedo*
> 
> what if I set front as an exhaust and top as an intake? also single rear fan as an exhaust


You could do that, and I had in fact thought of suggesting it, however you'll probably want to set all your top and rear fans to intake and put air filters on them. The downside to this idea though is that you'd be fighting against the convection currents and the case might end up recycling its own warm air if there's not enough open airflow around it.


----------



## fireedo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> You could do that, and I had in fact thought of suggesting it, however you'll probably want to set all your top and rear fans to intake and put air filters on them. The downside to this idea though is that you'd be fighting against the convection currents and the case might end up recycling its own warm air if there's not enough open airflow around it.


good point, well then I have to setup a good environmental airflow around my PC case, so its a gamble whether enough or not about slim 360 radiator then


----------



## Biggu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> Those RVE monoblocks are near impossible to get now. Especially the plexi one :I


ive had one up for sale for months now. I even have brand new plexi tops for it.


----------



## gupsterg

I have the EK XRES 140 D5 PWM. I was hoping to use the tube in the center. I have fitted O ring in groove in base, but the tube does not pass the O ring, is this how it is supposed to fit?



Basically the tube can fall out of base if pump turned upside down, pump is not being fitted upside down.

**** edit ****

Wet O ring and EK HD Tube, now passed O ring and tube is captive







.


----------



## 550574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> How are you planning to fit a 240mm raditor up front, are you planning to or have you already modded the case to be able to do so? Because Iirc, the 650D only accepts 1x 200mm fan up front. Either way i don't think a single 240&280 would do that well with low rpm fans.
> 
> What I would do, especially if you don't want to modify the case.
> 
> Throw out the HDD bays.
> Get the least terrible 200mm fan just for air intake. (Noctua NF-A20 PWM?)
> Use the rear 120mm fan as intake
> Mount one 280mm radiator as to exhaust
> Use an additional external 420mm radiator. (XSPC AX420 with AX Radiator Desk Stand?)
> Optionally use quick disconnects for the external radiator.


Thanks for advice.
Sorry I forgot to say that I've already modded a bit the case and I can fit 240 rad at the front. That's why I said that I will would like to fit one at the front.
Only thing which is not exactly clear for me is that I've checked on the EK configurator all my parts and with option for silence and overclock I get Outcome solution with 280 rad on the top and 120 rad at the rear. So my question is why there is so difference between your suggestion that my setting (which is already bigger in rad size) may be not enough for colling overclocked cpu ang gpu? Is EK configurator give the rad size estimation based on high fan speed? But then it shouldn't be suggest this when I choose silent/overclock settings for the loop. So I am bit confused.
Next thing is, I don't mind to mode my case under one condition I don't want to loose HDD hot swap bay on the top of my case and I need to keep at least one DVD/CD bay. I cannot see any option for modding but I am more than happy to get any suggestions


----------



## GunfighterAK

Hope someone can help me out.

I recently took apart my loop for annual maintenance and it's my first time using ek nickel plated blocks. I discovered some staining on the gpu block which has me concerned if its corrosion.
So far I've only been using distilled water with EK additive. Could be copper deposits from the alphacool radiators?

Thank you for any help.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/139CYj5eu_f5l6XV0d_t5a8X4KUeoPfFbnQ/view?usp=sharing


----------



## DarthBaggins

What type of coolant were you running?


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*
> 
> Hope someone can help me out.
> 
> I recently took apart my loop for annual maintenance and it's my first time using ek nickel plated blocks. I discovered some staining on the gpu block which has me concerned if its corrosion.
> So far I've only been using distilled water with EK additive. Could be copper deposits from the alphacool radiators?
> 
> Thank you for any help.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/139CYj5eu_f5l6XV0d_t5a8X4KUeoPfFbnQ/view?usp=sharing


Could be discoloration from using distilled water even though you used an additive. I've seen it before, doesn't seem always to play well with nickel. Some people swear by using de-ionized water instead of distilled due to this, but I really don't know if there's any truth to it.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulterey*
> 
> Thanks for advice.
> Sorry I forgot to say that I've already modded a bit the case and I can fit 240 rad at the front. That's why I said that I will would like to fit one at the front.
> Only thing which is not exactly clear for me is that I've checked on the EK configurator all my parts and with option for silence and overclock I get Outcome solution with 280 rad on the top and 120 rad at the rear. So my question is why there is so difference between your suggestion that my setting (which is already bigger in rad size) may be not enough for colling overclocked cpu ang gpu? Is EK configurator give the rad size estimation based on high fan speed? But then it shouldn't be suggest this when I choose silent/overclock settings for the loop. So I am bit confused.
> Next thing is, I don't mind to mode my case under one condition I don't want to loose HDD hot swap bay on the top of my case and I need to keep at least one DVD/CD bay. I cannot see any option for modding but I am more than happy to get any suggestions


I don't think anyone uses the EK configurator seriously for estimating rad size.
Also, to help with the confusion, you should set your priorities.
1st scenario:
I want to overclock (and how much o/c) - calculate rad size, then buy the rads, then buy the case to fit it all in.
2nd scenario:
overclock plus quiet - same as above but more rads, choose the fans first then everything else based on those.
3rd scenario:
Sexy case - choose a CPU that can be cooled by the available radiator space.

So sorry, you can't have good overclocks quietly whilst keeping a small case.
The best you can do is pack as much rad space as you can in there and only o/c to what it can handle.
BTW, you can get an external DVD drive.

There are some great rad size calculators out there... eg: http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator


----------



## GunfighterAK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> What type of coolant were you running?


Just distilled water with clear EK ekolant EVO. Doesn't seem to have did a good job. Maybe I should've changed it every 6 months.


----------



## GunfighterAK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Could be discoloration from using distilled water even though you used an additive. I've seen it before, doesn't seem always to play well with nickel. Some people swear by using de-ionized water instead of distilled due to this, but I really don't know if there's any truth to it.


Thanks, I hope it is. But at an initial look it seems like corrosion. I plan to tear the system apart in a few weeks and have a closer look.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Any news on the MLC?


----------



## Ziver

I also wanna know that


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*
> 
> Just distilled water with clear EK ekolant EVO. Doesn't seem to have did a good job. Maybe I should've changed it every 6 months.


Was the EVO Premixed? If so mixing it with Distilled could have caused what you're seeing


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*
> 
> Just distilled water with clear EK ekolant EVO. Doesn't seem to have did a good job. Maybe I should've changed it every 6 months.


Well after you've cleaned it all up, I suggest using EK's premixes without adding anything to it. Cant go wrong with the premixes, and if something _did_ go wrong it's highly unlikely to be your fault, unless you ran it at 60C or something silly like that...


----------



## GunfighterAK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Well after you've cleaned it all up, I suggest using EK's premixes without adding anything to it. Cant go wrong with the premixes, and if something _did_ go wrong it's highly unlikely to be your fault, unless you ran it at 60C or something silly like that...


Maybe, but I'm not a fan of the premixes due to the price here. My fans are set to the water temperature sensor to keep it at 40C max.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*
> 
> Maybe, but I'm not a fan of the premixes due to the price here. My fans are set to the water temperature sensor to keep it at 40C max.


I don't think they're that much more expensive than proper distilled water+concentrate though, are they?


----------



## GunfighterAK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Was the EVO Premixed? If so mixing it with Distilled could have caused what you're seeing


It's the concentrate you mix with distilled water. 1:9 ratio


----------



## GunfighterAK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> I don't think they're that much more expensive than proper distilled water+concentrate though, are they?


double the price of a concentrate.


----------



## 550574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> I don't think anyone uses the EK configurator seriously for estimating rad size.
> Also, to help with the confusion, you should set your priorities.
> 1st scenario:
> I want to overclock (and how much o/c) - calculate rad size, then buy the rads, then buy the case to fit it all in.
> 2nd scenario:
> overclock plus quiet - same as above but more rads, choose the fans first then everything else based on those.
> 3rd scenario:
> Sexy case - choose a CPU that can be cooled by the available radiator space.
> 
> So sorry, you can't have good overclocks quietly whilst keeping a small case.
> The best you can do is pack as much rad space as you can in there and only o/c to what it can handle.
> BTW, you can get an external DVD drive.
> 
> There are some great rad size calculators out there... eg: http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator


Thanks for help "surfchina".
I used the calculator and after I decided to mod a little bit more my case (I will fit 280 rad at the front) I should be able to run my setup quite safe in terms of OC and quietness.
My TDP setup is:
CPU (i9 7900X) OC - 240W
GPU (EVGA NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 iCX Hydro Copper) OC - 380W
MB, RAM, PUMP (3 x 40W) - 120W

TOTAL MAX TDP - 740W

Now I will fit into my case rads with cooling power:
1x120 at the rear - 100W
1x240 at the top - 199W
1x280 at the front, after little case mod - 471W

TOTAL COOLING POWER 770W

All fans will be set in pull config, taking all air into the case, this should give me a nice positive pressure in the case.
And as I have mesh window inside side panel all hot air should go out straight on my legs (PC under desk) which in UK, an extra heating is a bless during most of the year ;D

If I am wrong at any point advise me, please.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulterey*
> 
> Thanks for help "surfchina".
> I used the calculator and after I decided to mod a little bit more my case (I will fit 280 rad at the front) I should be able to run my setup quite safe in terms of OC and quietness.
> My TDP setup is:
> CPU (i9 7900X) OC - 240W
> GPU (EVGA NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 iCX Hydro Copper) OC - 380W
> MB, RAM, PUMP (3 x 40W) - 120W
> 
> TOTAL MAX TDP - 740W
> 
> Now I will fit into my case rads with cooling power:
> 1x120 at the rear - 100W
> 1x240 at the top - 199W
> 1x280 at the front, after little case mod - 471W
> 
> TOTAL COOLING POWER 770W
> 
> All fans will be set in pull config, taking all air into the case, this should give me a nice positive pressure in the case.
> And as I have mesh window inside side panel all hot air should go out straight on my legs (PC under desk) which in UK, an extra heating is a bless during most of the year ;D
> 
> If I am wrong at any point advise me, please.


Only one problem I can see, it'll be cold air onto your legs unless you leave prime 95 running all the time


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Any news on the MLC?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziver*
> 
> I also wanna know that


I don't have any recent news. I will ask and let you know.


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing a Plexi version of the popular EK-XRES Revo D5 Combo unit


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing a Plexi version of the popular EK-XRES Revo D5 Combo unit


Wow. Very pretty!

An additional suggestion: Make it available for purchase without the tube. Some of us already have a collection of tubes from stand-alone res purchases, and yet another 140mm tube is... well.. wasted.

It'd also be nice to be able to purchase just the volute. It'd be an upgrade for those that already own D5 units... (standalone, or XRES in black)


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing a Plexi version of the popular EK-XRES Revo D5 Combo unit


You guys are killing me. I bought my first xres 4-5 years ago, and this is like the exact same thing just now the base is clear. When are you guys going to offer it with a top that has more than just a fill port. This xres setup is restrictive in many applications and requires longer routing to get back to vs just have an additional ports on the top. I think it's about time these came with more than just a unless port on top.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing a Plexi version of the popular EK-XRES Revo D5 Combo unit


Looks very nice.

Any idea whether there are plans to build a plexi version of this?
Please... PLEASE!


----------



## Fediuld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing a Plexi version of the popular EK-XRES Revo D5 Combo unit


Beautiful









Wish you (as company) were bit more forthcoming about upcoming products like monoblocks on X399 and Z370 platforms.
At least we don't have to wait weeks or months to find out which motherboard to buy, because some of us prioritise the monoblock above the board. :/


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> You guys are killing me. I bought my first xres 4-5 years ago, and this is like the exact same thing just now the base is clear. When are you guys going to offer it with a top that has more than just a fill port. This xres setup is restrictive in many applications and requires longer routing to get back to vs just have an additional ports on the top. I think it's about time these came with more than just a unless port on top.


You cant just run it into the fill port and cap the inlet?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> You cant just run it into the fill port and cap the inlet?


You can use that fill port with an aquapipe but good luck filling your reservoir







. Seriously it's just ek's way to sell you a reservoir cap and a aquapipe. Even their current reservoirs come with 1 port lid unless you use the res upside down, which I did do on 1 build. It's really crappy tbh. Even thermaltake has more ports on their pump res combos. Being outdone by thermaltake is


----------



## demitrisln

Question and sorry if this has been answered.

Can I mix the Cyrofuel with EK-Ekoolant EVO Liquid Coolant? Both would be clear?

I was completly cleaning my loop and my Cyrofuel I ran out my res has just a tad bit in it. But I have a while bottle of EK -Ekoolant EVO. Would it be OK to mix the two? I see on the EK website it says not to mix coolants...


----------



## war4peace

My guess would be no, because EK-Cooland EVO was originally made by Mayhems and sold under a contract and Cryofuel is no longer Mayhems-made.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> You can use that fill port with an aquapipe but good luck filling your reservoir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Seriously it's just ek's way to sell you a reservoir cap and a aquapipe. Even their current reservoirs come with 1 port lid unless you use the res upside down, which I did do on 1 build. It's really crappy tbh. Even thermaltake has more ports on their pump res combos. Being outdone by thermaltake is


I used to fill my loop via the radiator, was only until I got the dual-D5's that I had to remove that port due to over-pressure. Just use a T-joint where there'd otherwise be a corner joint and run that to the top of the case somewhere, as long as it's not too low you shouldn't have any issues with it.


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> My guess would be no, because EK-Cooland EVO was originally made by Mayhems and sold under a contract and Cryofuel is no longer Mayhems-made.


Wound just distilled water be ok?


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Wound just distilled water be ok?


Distilled water is the best. Maybe throw in some silver to battle the algue.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Wound just distilled water be ok?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Distilled water is the best. Maybe throw in some silver to battle the algue.


YES! Distilled water and a silver kill coil are great!


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Wound just distilled water be ok?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Distilled water is the best. Maybe throw in some silver to battle the algue.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*
> 
> YES! Distilled water and a silver kill coil are great!


If you're using EK nickel blocks though, I'd advise against using distilled+silver as the nickel's super easy to flake off...


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> If you're using EK nickel blocks though, I'd advise against using distilled+silver as the nickel's super easy to flake off...


Still??? I know this was an issue 5 years ago . . . and I was pretty sure it was resolved. And I didn't know it was related at all to silver in distilled.


----------



## redserv

Guys I have just seen a similar issue using distilled water and biocide. I am not sure whats causing this as i just recently finished this loop. I am thinking to dissamble the GPU block and see what this is, see pic


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing a Plexi version of the popular EK-XRES Revo D5 Combo unit


I don't suppose there's any chance of this new pump top being available separately for those of us that already own a Revo d5/xres combo already?


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*
> 
> Still??? I know this was an issue 5 years ago . . . and I was pretty sure it was resolved. And I didn't know it was related at all to silver in distilled.


My supremacy block started flaking after a year of use with distilled+silver, any slight defect in the plating can cause it to start over time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redserv*
> 
> Guys I have just seen a similar issue using distilled water and biocide. I am not sure whats causing this as i just recently finished this loop. I am thinking to dissamble the GPU block and see what this is, see pic


That looks about the same to what my supremacy did, flaked around where there's no water flow and a few patches where there is, I'd suggest cleaning it out with a fine brush (like a toothbrush), rinse it off with distilled and then use EK coolant in the loop instead.


----------



## war4peace

I advise against using distilled water for anything other than a quick loop clean or test. Solutions such as distilled + kill coil were good back when dedicated coolants were just born or didn't exist at all. Today you can get clear coolant for 7 dollars a liter and it contains biocides and inhibitors. There is no point in using distilled unless you want to live dangerously.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I advise against using distilled water for anything other than a quick loop clean or test. Solutions such as distilled + kill coil were good back when dedicated coolants were just born or didn't exist at all. Today you can get clear coolant for 7 dollars a liter and it contains biocides and inhibitors. There is no point in using distilled unless you want to live dangerously.


If it were an all-copper loop you could get away with distilled. But yea, there's little reason to use it nowadays, most stuff has been tested over and over and it's usually only the cheap tubes and coolant that still causes issues, and rarely at that...


----------



## Artikbot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I advise against using distilled water for anything other than a quick loop clean or test. Solutions such as distilled + kill coil were good back when dedicated coolants were just born or didn't exist at all. Today you can get clear coolant for 7 dollars a liter and it contains biocides and inhibitors. There is no point in using distilled unless you want to live dangerously.


I've been using de-scaled tap water for 10 years now, 6 of which on the same cooling loop. Never had a problem, except for a pump failing last week (impeller exploded in 3 pieces after 6 years of service).

Fight me


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Question and sorry if this has been answered.
> 
> Can I mix the Cyrofuel with EK-Ekoolant EVO Liquid Coolant? Both would be clear?
> 
> I was completly cleaning my loop and my Cyrofuel I ran out my res has just a tad bit in it. But I have a while bottle of EK -Ekoolant EVO. Would it be OK to mix the two? I see on the EK website it says not to mix coolants...


No you can't mix Cryofuel and Ekoolant EVO.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> My guess would be no, because EK-Cooland EVO was originally made by Mayhems and sold under a contract and Cryofuel is no longer Mayhems-made.


Only the pastel was made by Mayhems.


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing a new RGB monoblock for several ASUS® X299 based motherboards


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artikbot*
> 
> I've been using de-scaled tap water for 10 years now, 6 of which on the same cooling loop. Never had a problem, except for a pump failing last week (impeller exploded in 3 pieces after 6 years of service).
> 
> Fight me


Good for you








I still wouldn't recommend it because there's no reason to use it except for a few dollars saved, but there's plenty risks involved.


----------



## emsj86

I don't get saving a few bucks when you spent so much to water cool it in the first place. That's like buying a Lamborghini and using cheap oil and gas to save a little.


----------



## Fediuld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing a new RGB monoblock for several ASUS® X299 based motherboards


Beautiful.


----------



## Jobotoo

@akira749 The Asus Rampage VI Extreme was released in the US today and I was wondering if there is an ETA on monoblocks for it, and more specifically this one:
https://www.facebook.com/EKWaterBlocks/videos/1457387537648606/


----------



## Groshek

Hi all,

I'm currently in the process of building mini ITX watercooled rig with EK blocks. I've ordered EK supremacy EVO for my 6700k and EK 1080 Ti for my gtx, both nickel versions. I can't see any issues with the GPU block but the EVO to me looks quite bad. Black paint on the metal cross brace is not done at all on the acrylic site and you can see it all through the clear top. On the site of the copper plate is looks ok. Please check this picture and let me know if this is normal or just really poor QC.
Sorry for pic quality but it was done with mobile and block is still in the EK sealed bag.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I don't get saving a few bucks when you spent so much to water cool it in the first place. That's like buying a Lamborghini and using cheap oil and gas to save a little.


Basically.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Groshek*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm currently in the process of building mini ITX watercooled rig with EK blocks. I've ordered EK supremacy EVO for my 6700k and EK 1080 Ti for my gtx, both nickel versions. I can't see any issues with the GPU block but the EVO to me looks quite bad. Black paint on the metal cross brace is not done at all on the acrylic site and you can see it all through the clear top. On the site of the copper plate is looks ok. Please check this picture and let me know if this is normal or just really poor QC.
> Sorry for pic quality but it was done with mobile and block is still in the EK sealed bag.


I'm not sure what you're seeing, but it looks perfectly fine to me. The blotchiness that you can see through the acrylic is a light effect that you get when an uneven surface makes contact to a smooth transparent surface, parts that make smooth contact will appear dark, and those with no contact will appear brighter than normal due to localised surface reflections between the surfaces.

If in doubt, take it apart and look at the bracket directly, you should be allowed to do this with the normal universal model as it's needed to switch between different sockets and CPUs (if you read the manual).


----------



## Groshek

look closer










can you see spots on black paint on metal now?


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Groshek*
> 
> look closer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can you see spots on black paint on metal now?


I see them. It looks like the metal wasn't prepped/primed properly before painting it. I'm not surprised though. I'd return it and request another or a refund, and go with another brand like Watercool.


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I advise against using distilled water for anything other than a quick loop clean or test. Solutions such as distilled + kill coil were good back when dedicated coolants were just born or didn't exist at all. Today you can get clear coolant for 7 dollars a liter and it contains biocides and inhibitors. There is no point in using distilled unless you want to live dangerously.


Wow, and all this time I thought it was the least dangerous and easiest to upkeep . . .


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Groshek*
> 
> look closer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can you see spots on black paint on metal now?


I think you'll have to take the bracket off and look at it directly, looks mostly normal to me...

Here's mine for comparison, with its AM4 bracket that I had to buy separately;



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*
> 
> Wow, and all this time I thought it was the least dangerous and easiest to upkeep . . .


Same, until my block flaked...


----------



## Neokolzia

So I was inspecting my watercooling system for debris because of a recent issue with fluid and UV compatibilty.

I noticed there was what looked like Rust on the Nickle GPU block, any idea's where it might have came from?



(Album)


http://imgur.com/ZjNtR


The loop is made up of:
x2 Magicool Brass/Copper Rads (420mm)
Darkside Brass fittings
EK D5 Pump
Nickle/Acetal EK Blocks

liquid is Mayhems Pastel Extreme + Mayhems Pink UV dye, which is mixed to the recommended mix with distilled water

Did little reading, so basically this is nickle plating being corroded off for some reason, and showing the copper underneath?


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> So I was inspecting my watercooling system for debris because of a recent issue with fluid and UV compatibilty.
> 
> I noticed there was what looked like Rust on the Nickle GPU block, any idea's where it might have came from?
> 
> 
> 
> (Album)
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/ZjNtR
> 
> 
> The loop is made up of:
> x2 Magicool Brass/Copper Rads (420mm)
> Darkside Brass fittings
> EK D5 Pump
> Nickle/Acetal EK Blocks
> 
> Did little reading, so basically this is nickle plating being corroded off for some reason, and showing the copper underneath?


Did you have distilled water in it beforehand? or is this 'milk' just dyed distilled water?


----------



## Neokolzia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> So I was inspecting my watercooling system for debris because of a recent issue with fluid and UV compatibilty.
> 
> I noticed there was what looked like Rust on the Nickle GPU block, any idea's where it might have came from?
> 
> 
> 
> (Album)
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/ZjNtR
> 
> 
> The loop is made up of:
> x2 Magicool Brass/Copper Rads (420mm)
> Darkside Brass fittings
> EK D5 Pump
> Nickle/Acetal EK Blocks
> 
> Did little reading, so basically this is nickle plating being corroded off for some reason, and showing the copper underneath?
> 
> 
> 
> Did you have distilled water in it beforehand? or is this 'milk' just dyed distilled water?
Click to expand...

Should have mentioned in my post, the liquid is Mayhems Pastel Extreme + Mayhems Pink UV dye, which is mixed to the recommended mix with distilled water


----------



## neSSa




----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*


It looks like you polished that heat sink?

Looks great


----------



## Biggu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Groshek*
> 
> look closer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can you see spots on black paint on metal now?


Looks normal to me. What you are seeing is probably because the paint on the mounting bracket isnt totaly smooth and its just coming in contact with the plexi. You wont see it nor notice it when its installed. If it bothers you that much you can loosen the cover on the block and re tighten it down.


----------



## Groshek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> Looks normal to me. What you are seeing is probably because the paint on the mounting bracket isnt totaly smooth and its just coming in contact with the plexi. You wont see it nor notice it when its installed. If it bothers you that much you can loosen the cover on the block and re tighten it down.


This is unfortunately not the case. Black spots you see are paint and shiny background is bare metal. Picture does not show how bad it is. It looks horrible in real life. I must say that I'm very dissapointed with EK's QC as in this example it was clearly non existent.
I'm planning on building a parallel loop so i choose ek due to very similar flow. I'll send this block for replacement. But if the second one is the same I'll reconsider using EK altogether.


----------



## Excession

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I don't get saving a few bucks when you spent so much to water cool it in the first place. That's like buying a Lamborghini and using cheap oil and gas to save a little.


That analogy is actually pretty good. See, you actually _want_ to use the lowest octane gas you can get away with since higher octane gasoline has a lower energy density.


----------



## war4peace

Except in case of distilled versus premade coolant the performance difference is academic.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Until it clogs up with growth, I'm running autoclaved RO water in my secondary system loop atm and I intend on replacing it asap


----------



## slax0r

Submitted the form. Images can be seen in this post:
http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/106420#post_26345410

Hardware:
EK-Supremacy EVO
EK-Thermosphere
EK-CoolStream XE 240
EK-DBAY D5 PWM
EK-Furious Vardar FF5-120


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Except in case of distilled versus premade coolant the performance difference is academic.


i wish people would really stop with this. it is false.

as an enthusiast *ANY small difference matters.* when pushing the "red line" weather that is a 0.5c or 2c. that 0.5c could be the difference between BSOD and not BSOD...... cpus/gpus are temp sensitive. and it can matter.

blind comments like this are not only false but beyond insulting.
stop telling me what *I* need

decide what YOU need, not me. when explaining these kinds of decisions ask them what they *want* rather then opressing them with your baggage.

it is one of the biggest reasons people dont use FX, which is a great platform for 99% of people ...... with a far less cost no one needed a i3 let alone the i7 they wasted money on ( my company has nothing but i7s- locked, but come on, really???? WHY what does anyone in an office - aka web and email and office users need a freaking i7 for ???? )


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i wish people would really stop with this. it is false. WHY what does anyone in an office - aka web and email and office users need a freaking i7 for ???? )


1. The "intel inside" logo just looks so much better than the AMD logo.

2. "7" is a bigger number than "3" and "5."

3. AMD might have sold more FX's if they spelled it out. It's "effects", not "FX."

(I do hope that people realize I'm joking. I've seen some really silly Intel vs AMD arguments on here, and I'd hate to start one.)


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> [rant]


I have a feeling someone is bursting with frustrations... and it's not me.
Dude, relax. Everyone is entitled to an opinion, and what you consider "false" (and rant about) is actually really, really subjective, not to mention one-sided.

A performance difference between X and Y (no matter what X and Y might be) becomes academic when it exists at a theoretical level but is irrelevant at a practical level. Examples abound, they are everywhere around us.
But to continue your example, a difference of 0.5 degrees Celsius can be better achieved by adding a small passive heatsink to the backplate of a motherboard - and a very slowly rotating fan blowing over it. The cooling performance improvement obtained that way can offset the coolant performance difference mentioned above by an order of magnitude. Thus, the performance difference between coolant A and coolant B becomes academic (aka "not of practical relevance; of only theoretical interest").

I've seen people focusing on ONE factor and ignoring others which would greatly help their issue quite a few times, in computing as well as other areas, tunnel visioning like there's no tomorrow. You keep doing that, it's fine. But keep yer knickers on while you do it, please. Be civil.

As for why your company uses i7s, well let me tell you that money, rather than pure performance, is THE driving factor of pretty much all successful companies out there. With that being said, it could be counter-intuitive as to why a more expensive i7 would be used for X machines rather than its cheaper counterpart (AMD FX) - however (as mentioned above) there are other factors that, when taken into consideration, might make using the i7s cheaper overall than using AMD FX CPUs.

Hint: *PC != CPU*.

But we're offtopic anyway.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i wish people would really stop with this. it is false.
> 
> as an enthusiast *ANY small difference matters.* when pushing the "red line" weather that is a 0.5c or 2c. that 0.5c could be the difference between BSOD and not BSOD...... cpus/gpus are temp sensitive. and it can matter.
> 
> blind comments like this are not only false but beyond insulting.
> stop telling me what *I* need
> 
> decide what YOU need, not me. when explaining these kinds of decisions ask them what they *want* rather then opressing them with your baggage.
> 
> it is one of the biggest reasons people dont use FX, which is a great platform for 99% of people ...... with a far less cost no one needed a i3 let alone the i7 they wasted money on ( my company has nothing but i7s- locked, but come on, really???? WHY what does anyone in an office - aka web and email and office users need a freaking i7 for ???? )


If a system is 0.5C away from failure, that is shoddy engineering and the the individual has bigger problems to worry about than choice of coolant lol.

I get it, people have a right be stupid, be we all also have a right to not have to pander to that stupidity.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> [rant]
> 
> 
> 
> I have a feeling someone is bursting with frustrations... and it's not me.
> Dude, relax. Everyone is entitled to an opinion, and what you consider "false" (and rant about) is actually really, really subjective, not to mention one-sided.
> 
> A performance difference between X and Y (no matter what X and Y might be) becomes academic when it exists at a theoretical level but is irrelevant at a practical level. Examples abound, they are everywhere around us.
> But to continue your example, a difference of 0.5 degrees Celsius can be better achieved by adding a small passive heatsink to the backplate of a motherboard - and a very slowly rotating fan blowing over it. The cooling performance improvement obtained that way can offset the coolant performance difference mentioned above by an order of magnitude. Thus, the performance difference between coolant A and coolant B becomes academic (aka "not of practical relevance; of only theoretical interest").
> 
> I've seen people focusing on ONE factor and ignoring others which would greatly help their issue quite a few times, in computing as well as other areas, tunnel visioning like there's no tomorrow. You keep doing that, it's fine. But keep yer knickers on while you do it, please. Be civil.
> 
> As for why your company uses i7s, well let me tell you that money, rather than pure performance, is THE driving factor of pretty much all successful companies out there. With that being said, it could be counter-intuitive as to why a more expensive i7 would be used for X machines rather than its cheaper counterpart (AMD FX) - however (as mentioned above) there are other factors that, when taken into consideration, might make using the i7s cheaper overall than using AMD FX CPUs.
> 
> Hint: *PC != CPU*.
> 
> But we're offtopic anyway.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i wish people would really stop with this. it is false.
> 
> as an enthusiast *ANY small difference matters.* when pushing the "red line" weather that is a 0.5c or 2c. that 0.5c could be the difference between BSOD and not BSOD...... cpus/gpus are temp sensitive. and it can matter.
> 
> blind comments like this are not only false but beyond insulting.
> stop telling me what *I* need
> 
> decide what YOU need, not me. when explaining these kinds of decisions ask them what they *want* rather then opressing them with your baggage.
> 
> it is one of the biggest reasons people dont use FX, which is a great platform for 99% of people ...... with a far less cost no one needed a i3 let alone the i7 they wasted money on ( my company has nothing but i7s- locked, but come on, really???? WHY what does anyone in an office - aka web and email and office users need a freaking i7 for ???? )
> 
> 
> 
> If a system is 0.5C away from failure, that is shoddy engineering and the the individual has bigger problems to worry about than choice of coolant lol.
> 
> I get it, people have a right be stupid, be we all also have a right to not have to pander to that stupidity.
Click to expand...

you both missed the point.

again. in an enthusiast world. 0.5c makes a difference. and yes distilled has better thermals then any mix out there.

being that close to the line has NOTHING to do with an engineering problem. it is called benching. or sometimes suicide runs.

many gpus have a magic temp that the higher volts become unstable.

so if you are over that temp by 0.25c, then you are unstable. if you are under by 0.25c then all the sudden you are stable. doo tell me. how to add these magic heatsinks on top of heat sinks ( i can has heatsinks on my heatsinks!!!! )

neither of you are allowing there to be validity to using distilled. many have, for years, without issues.

does that make it the only way? no.

according to you however the only way is your way.

what i am saying is let people make up their own minds, stop pushing your baggage on them. let them choose and deal with their own consequences.

as to my example. because it is a perfectly reasonable example. why buy an i7 when you will get max performance from an Athlon ? there are many reasons. but no none of yours are relevant someone who knows nothing made a poor decision wasting my money ( i buy the product my company makes )


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Groshek*
> 
> This is unfortunately not the case. Black spots you see are paint and shiny background is bare metal. Picture does not show how bad it is. It looks horrible in real life. I must say that I'm very dissapointed with EK's QC as in this example it was clearly non existent.
> I'm planning on building a parallel loop so i choose ek due to very similar flow. I'll send this block for replacement. But if the second one is the same I'll reconsider using EK altogether.


Still, all I can see is black paint and black paint, if there were bare metal it would be in plain sight and as smooth looking as the nickel plating on the block itself...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> in an enthusiast world. 0.5c makes a difference


except .5C is well within the margin of error of sensory devices, let alone silicon behaviour, and if you wanted the best results in benching why not just use a closed-loop evaporative cooler...?

The critical thing to keep in mind however, is you _cannot_ use distilled with nickel, nickel needs corrosion inhibitors as the plating is super easy to flake off...


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> The critical thing to keep in mind however, is you _cannot_ use distilled with nickel, nickel needs corrosion inhibitors as the plating is super easy to flake off...


Thank you! Someone final put this in simple terms I can understand.

So if you do not have nickel, just Copper/Acetal, distilled is fine, right?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Groshek*
> 
> This is unfortunately not the case. Black spots you see are paint and shiny background is bare metal. Picture does not show how bad it is. It looks horrible in real life. I must say that I'm very dissapointed with EK's QC as in this example it was clearly non existent.
> I'm planning on building a parallel loop so i choose ek due to very similar flow. I'll send this block for replacement. But if the second one is the same I'll reconsider using EK altogether.
> 
> 
> 
> Still, all I can see is black paint and black paint, if there were bare metal it would be in plain sight and as smooth looking as the nickel plating on the block itself...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> in an enthusiast world. 0.5c makes a difference
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> except .5C is well within the margin of error of sensory devices, let alone silicon behaviour, and if you wanted the best results in benching why not just use a closed-loop evaporative cooler...?
> 
> The critical thing to keep in mind however, is you _cannot_ use distilled with nickel, nickel needs corrosion inhibitors as the plating is super easy to flake off...
Click to expand...

No, if you are comparing 2 different sensors or even Sensor ports, .5c is margin of error, same port, same sensor is not margin of error. It is .5c the same sensor will always be the same deg off (unless faulty) that is why there is no margin of error.

I have parts of my job, that if parts are 1 deg F less on once side ten the other, i have to replace it. That is how i learned the above fact, and why it is so important to always use the same sensor

Lastly, when you are talking alot core temps. There is no margin of error, esp when it is repeatable time and time again. 79xx was 60c on the dot , Hawaii was different chip by chip buy around 60c generally, never kept up with fiji. Not any of the new ones, but all gpus exhibit this

Even the green team when going extreme

But valid ish answer, although many would disagree and have used nickel and silver coil without issue, i am not saying you are wrong, just a counter point.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> The critical thing to keep in mind however, is you _cannot_ use distilled with nickel, nickel needs corrosion inhibitors as the plating is super easy to flake off...
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you! Someone final put this in simple terms I can understand.
> 
> So if you do not have nickel, just Copper/Acetal, distilled is fine, right?
Click to expand...

Really depends on you.

Copper can oxidize, which has ZERO effect on temps. Just looks you will have minor corrosion, as you still have mixed metals just to a very minor degree.

Can you run distilled m sure. Should you use biocide, yes. Should you use an anti corrosive or an inhibitors (the pre mix stuff) if you want.

Are There risks and rewards with both? Yes


----------



## allinlvl1

After only a few months being used with a Predator 360 AIO via qdc, my 1080 water block developed some nickel plating issue in an area where its not in contact of the coolant. I also want to point out that I've never disassembled the block.

Anyways I have since moved on with the Predator 360 AIO (had to rma that also) to a EK custom loop and transplanted the blemished 1080 block into my new loop. That's when I noticed it while disassembly/cleaning.

Now my question is, does this warrant an rma since its since still under warranty?

Edit: inb4 holy moly look at them air bubbles!!! I'm currently using a temp pump/res from a S360 kit lol until my D5 pump/res arrives. I have two PE 360 + gpu block + x99 monoblock so its very inadequate and will probably kill itself shortly.


*not final build*


----------



## GunfighterAK

The EKWB support reps arrogant approach to amazingly high quality control standards is laughable.

Good luck with the RMA.


----------



## DarthBaggins

They will still RMA the block with minimal issues.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you both missed the point.


...but we haven't. i'll explain below.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> again. in an enthusiast world. 0.5c makes a difference. and yes distilled has better thermals then any mix out there.


Except it doesn't.
If you want to do benching to the extreme you don't use watercooling. WC is the mid-ground in terms of overclocking. All it does is take the heat outside of the immediate vicinity of the heat generating hardware and can scale a bit better with larger heat loads (from multiple sources). For example multi-GPU / CPU systems. Therefore, if you bench you use evaporator solutions, chillers, sub-zero or LN2 (pots rather than closed-loop solutions).

After that you just keep on ranting about stuff you probably never experienced first-hand, so I'll snip to the next thing you talk about...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> neither of you are allowing there to be validity to using distilled. many have, for years, without issues.


I never said that. Stop putting words in my mouth.
What I said was "I can't recommend to use distilled when there are premade coolants out there which are safer to use". Now, experts can use whatever they want, for example Galinstan







but they are experts, not genpop.
I've seen this kind of behavior plenty of times. People become good at what they do, they reach a certain level of expertise and start suffering from what I call "the Saruman Syndrome". They stand there in the high tower, no longer able to relate to people who are not experts and therefore providing potentially disastrous solutions to regular people. Don't do it. Just don't. That expert solution works for you because you know how to handle it and what to do when it starts misbehaving - however not everyone can. Therefore I can't recommend a potentially dangerous solution to people who can't handle it just yet.

After over 15 years of riding motorcycles I can handle a Hayabusa - but the person who just obtained their driver's license can't. It would likely just get them killed. So I don't recommend it - and then witness someone like you starting their rant because I hurt their feelings...
Adapting to someone's knowledge level is a skill.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what i am saying is let people make up their own minds, stop pushing your baggage on them. let them choose and deal with their own consequences.


...and then what, witness them come here and tell us we're horrible advisers because we didn't even care about their level when they asked, and now their loop is ruined because they trusted us with a solution adjusted to their knowledge level, which we haven't provided? Thanks but no, I am not going to do that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> as to my example. because it is a perfectly reasonable example. why buy an i7 when you will get max performance from an Athlon ? there are many reasons. but no none of yours are relevant someone who knows nothing made a poor decision wasting my money ( i buy the product my company makes )


Again, I have no idea what the reasons are in your company, but as I said there could be plenty of reasons. I've seen cases where a company needs between 1K and 30K machines which should all be based on the same core (mobo/CPU/case/PSU) with several storage and RAM options - and vendors can only provide Intel-based machines in such quantities - not to mention they are getting a pretty sweet LTS and price deal with the bundle. You go try obtaining a 5K machines quote with identical AMD CPUs and then come back with a better deal than Intel-based from any vendor.

The issue here is you're thinking small, you look around your office and say "I could definitely get 50 Athlon-based machines which would suffice and be cheaper" - which is definitely correct, but your CFO might look at the company strategy for the next 5 years in hardware and say "I will need 50K units which my company can easily manage remotely, support costs should be 0.5% target and deployment costs should be 0.1% target, with a contract ensuring me free hardware upgrades and replacement throughout the contract period with a 2-year pace". So your solution might look cheaper right now, looking around you, but that guy up top has access to factors and targets you can't even begin to comprehend.

_Disclaimer: I work for an IT company with almost 200K employees and almost twice as many employee-owned machines_.


----------



## allinlvl1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*
> 
> The EKWB support reps arrogant approach to amazingly high quality control standards is laughable.
> 
> Good luck with the RMA.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> They will still RMA the block with minimal issues.


Good news they approved my rma and I'll be shipped a new replacement! This is the reason why I stick with EKWB parts knowing I'll be taking care of if issues arise without delay.


----------



## jvillaveces

How important is the direction of flow in the triple parallel GPU bridge? Mine connects two cards, with a blanking plate in the middle. The inlet/outlet configuration shown in the instructions (left top inlet, bottom right or lateral as outlet) is exactly the opposite of how I would like ti set up my loop. I have used dual parallel blocks in the past with the flow the way I want it this time (inlet from the lateral port, outlet through the top left port) with no problems (that I'm aware of), but I don't remember flow direction being mentioned in the instructions back then.


----------



## akira749

EK is releasing new monoblocks for ASUS® ROG® Rampage VI Extreme & Apex


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing new monoblocks for ASUS® ROG® Rampage VI Extreme & Apex


I don't know how much input you have for the design folks at ek but please tell them to start doing something different. These blocks look like the x99 blocks out for my old deluxe. Literally identical except a change in the bottom with a plate now. The black just adds the rgb. So boring bro. The entire EK line up has 2 looks that just get reiterated over and over. Stop being the Apple of the water cooling industry.







Long time customer here just saying.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> How important is the direction of flow in the triple parallel GPU bridge? Mine connects two cards, with a blanking plate in the middle. The inlet/outlet configuration shown in the instructions (left top inlet, bottom right or lateral as outlet) is exactly the opposite of how I would like ti set up my loop. I have used dual parallel blocks in the past with the flow the way I want it this time (inlet from the lateral port, outlet through the top left port) with no problems (that I'm aware of), but I don't remember flow direction being mentioned in the instructions back then.


Shouldn't matter, but idk if their blocks are directional


----------



## allinlvl1

Was too lazy to tear down/drain the loop from the case one by one but I miraculously did it without any help. Dont be an idiot like me! The Lian Li PC-011 looks nice but theres just some annoying stuff that I can't live with (paper thin aluminum, advertised to be able to mount 5 80mm fans but the mount holes are different and few others) so it's going back for false advertising and will likely be my last case from them.

Suprisngly there's not too many decent tempered glass cases that can house dual 360 but I narrowed it down to either Thermaltake view 71, be quiet dark base pro, Cougar Panzer, inwin or maybe the new cases from Cooler Master.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> How important is the direction of flow in the triple parallel GPU bridge? Mine connects two cards, with a blanking plate in the middle. The inlet/outlet configuration shown in the instructions (left top inlet, bottom right or lateral as outlet) is exactly the opposite of how I would like ti set up my loop. I have used dual parallel blocks in the past with the flow the way I want it this time (inlet from the lateral port, outlet through the top left port) with no problems (that I'm aware of), but I don't remember flow direction being mentioned in the instructions back then.


Ek have said that flow direction is not critical. If you used a series bridge one of them has to be reversed.


----------



## jvillaveces

That was the question, waan't it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> How important is the direction of flow in the triple parallel GPU bridge? Mine connects two cards, with a blanking plate in the middle. The inlet/outlet configuration shown in the instructions (left top inlet, bottom right or lateral as outlet) is exactly the opposite of how I would like ti set up my loop. I have used dual parallel blocks in the past with the flow the way I want it this time (inlet from the lateral port, outlet through the top left port) with no problems (that I'm aware of), but I don't remember flow direction being mentioned in the instructions back then.
> 
> 
> 
> Shouldn't matter, but idk if their blocks are directional
Click to expand...

That was the question, wasn't it? If "ydk" why clutter the forum with a pointless post?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> How important is the direction of flow in the triple parallel GPU bridge? Mine connects two cards, with a blanking plate in the middle. The inlet/outlet configuration shown in the instructions (left top inlet, bottom right or lateral as outlet) is exactly the opposite of how I would like ti set up my loop. I have used dual parallel blocks in the past with the flow the way I want it this time (inlet from the lateral port, outlet through the top left port) with no problems (that I'm aware of), but I don't remember flow direction being mentioned in the instructions back then.
> 
> 
> 
> Ek have said that flow direction is not critical. If you used a series bridge one of them has to be reversed.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I will install it the way I want to and hope for the best


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> That was the question, waan't it
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> How important is the direction of flow in the triple parallel GPU bridge? Mine connects two cards, with a blanking plate in the middle. The inlet/outlet configuration shown in the instructions (left top inlet, bottom right or lateral as outlet) is exactly the opposite of how I would like ti set up my loop. I have used dual parallel blocks in the past with the flow the way I want it this time (inlet from the lateral port, outlet through the top left port) with no problems (that I'm aware of), but I don't remember flow direction being mentioned in the instructions back then.
> 
> 
> 
> Shouldn't matter, but idk if their blocks are directional
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That was the question, wasn't it? If "ydk" why clutter the forum with a pointless post?
Click to expand...

sigh, this is why people stop helping.

i tried to help you, if they were directional, your temps would suffer mildly, but i can see from now on, you obviously know everything, i wont bother to waste my time helping you

your post was pointless. mine was not


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> your post was pointless. mine was not


I think it's your forum avatar. It's hard to take someone seriously with kool-aid guys flying in your face.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Thanks! I will install it the way I want to and hope for the best


the EK block flow is directional. As in there will be a 3-4C difference but for practical purposes, it is not a huge difference.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Thanks! I will install it the way I want to and hope for the best
> 
> 
> 
> the EK block flow is directional. As in there will be a 3-4C difference but for practical purposes, it is not a huge difference.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I hope the effect on temps is really that mild, as I have plenty of cooling capacity and can probably afford that kind of overhead. Building the loop with the designated inlets and outlets, otoh, would result in an ugly mess of tubes.

I'm curious as to why EK built it that way: their CPU blocks, when installed in the "normal orientation", would place the inlet above the GPU bridge's inlet, and the outlets also end up on top of each other, so regardless of whether you go CPU to GPU or viceversa you have to criss-cross those connections. This make no sense aesthetically!


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Thanks! I hope the effect on temps is really that mild, as I have plenty of cooling capacity and can probably afford that kind of overhead. Building the loop with the designated inlets and outlets, otoh, would result in an ugly mess of tubes.
> 
> I'm curious as to why EK built it that way: their CPU blocks, when installed in the "normal orientation", would place the inlet above the GPU bridge's inlet, and the outlets also end up on top of each other, so regardless of whether you go CPU to GPU or viceversa you have to criss-cross those connections. This make no sense aesthetically!


I guess it's just that the CPU block designs have been around long before we had GPU blocks with the center inlet design that would seem to make them directional.

I would not expect as much as 4 degrees in difference due to reversed flow. If that was the case we would always see it in dual GPUs in series with one being 4 or 5C higher in temp but we don't. It's pretty much limited to the increase in fluid temp after the first block.

3 or 4 degrees is fairly significant when compared to the normal 8 to 10c delta between coolant and core. If not when compared to the temp reductions compared to air.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Thanks! I hope the effect on temps is really that mild, as I have plenty of cooling capacity and can probably afford that kind of overhead. Building the loop with the designated inlets and outlets, otoh, would result in an ugly mess of tubes.
> 
> I'm curious as to why EK built it that way: their CPU blocks, when installed in the "normal orientation", would place the inlet above the GPU bridge's inlet, and the outlets also end up on top of each other, so regardless of whether you go CPU to GPU or viceversa you have to criss-cross those connections. This make no sense aesthetically!


Because they use a jetplate split flow design which is more efficient at transferring heat from block to water.

The theory is, the jet plate forces the water to become a high pressure jet which is forced down the fins which transitions the water from laminar flow to turbulent flow. Water absorbs heat better in its turbulent state but you also want the water to return to a laminar stage after to be wicked away rapidly to a radiator.

By reversing the flow on the copper standard EK design, you lose out on the jetplate effect thus the 4-5c difference.
The new aluminium design from EK still uses the split jet plate but the fins are angled at a 45 degree offset to the jet to allow a measure of turbulent transition should you reverse the flow.

Sigh a lot of this knowledge was lost when Martinsliquidlab and Skinnee labs went down. I swear the oldschool watercoolers knew more and were more science driven than what i see now.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Should it be easy to blow the coolant through the loop ?

My pump is running, but nothing get's pumped and if I blow I have quite a bit of resistant.

Res => Pump => GPU's in parallel => Mono Block => 480 XTX rad => 480 XTX rad => 240 XTX rad => Res

Pump is from this kit: Click

It worked before and the only differences are, that I have with this setup now a Mono-Block and replaced the parallel terminal with tubing.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Should it be easy to blow the coolant through the loop ?
> 
> My pump is running, but nothing get's pumped and if I blow I have quite a bit of resistant.
> 
> Res => Pump => GPU's in parallel => Mono Block => 480 XTX rad => 480 XTX rad => 240 XTX rad => Res
> 
> Pump is from this kit: Click
> 
> It worked before and the only differences are, that I have with this setup now a Mono-Block and replaced the parallel terminal with tubing.


That is a lot of components for a DCP pump. Chances are your issues are air bubble related.

That being said, double check your blocks don't have any blockages.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> That is a lot of components for a DCP pump. Chances are your issues are air bubble related.
> 
> That being said, double check your blocks don't have any blockages.


Ok, I will try to check them all.

I didn't flush the Mono-Block before I used it.

Some Info's about the Pump: Click

How it's connected:



Some Real-World-Photo's:






When I blow in, then I have quite some resistance.

I tried only the GPU's and Mono-Block, but still no luck.

PS: They managed to send me the wrong size tubing, so I worked with what I had on previous leftovers.

What would be the strongest EK-Pump ?


----------



## buellersdayoff

Either https://www.pccasegear.com/products/33667/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-pump-acetal
Or https://www.pccasegear.com/products/33919/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial-with-2-pumps


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buellersdayoff*
> 
> Either https://www.pccasegear.com/products/33667/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-pump-acetal
> Or https://www.pccasegear.com/products/33919/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial-with-2-pumps


Thanks a lot !


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Thanks a lot !


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Thanks a lot !


Optimally with your setup, you want something that can generate about 7-8mH2O of pressure.
The simplest is 2 D5 pumps in series as you don't have to worry about where you are putting the pumps. Dual DDC is potentially more powerful but you will have to be sure to keep the base well ventilated as they do get hot.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Optimally with your setup, you want something that can generate about 7-8mH2O of pressure.
> The simplest is 2 D5 pumps in series as you don't have to worry about where you are putting the pumps. Dual DDC is potentially more powerful but you will have to be sure to keep the base well ventilated as they do get hot.


Ok, I will have a look.

I tried so many different setup's, to bypass stuff, like my 480's, but it looks like it that my pump has an issue.










Edit:

Just only went with Res => Pump => GPU's and it only slowly drizzles out, after the GPU's.


----------



## war4peace

Buy this. I have one and it's awesome.
A single DDC for all that setup is way too small.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Buy this. I have one and it's awesome.
> A single DDC for all that setup is way too small.


Ok, I will have look.

I can't really complain, as it was my first pump.


----------



## CuewarsTaner

Hi, all. I finally found this thread !!!

I recently upgraded my build to a new X299 i9-7900X system. Also got my pc case upgraded from Corsair400c to Anidees AI Crystal Lite. The last case was too small to put a large reservoir in. So i got the new one that allows me to put a 240 radiator, a 360 radaitor and a 300ml reservoir. Here is the old one and new one:

Old build Corsair400c:



New build: Anidees AI Crystal Lite


----------



## alton brown

Hi All! This is where I should be. I just finished my 1st custom loop. I've wanted to do this for years. I had so much fun building it. Its an old X79 platform with a 4930K overclocked to 4.4 GHz. She still has a lot of life in her! Here are some pics.

I have a question, is there software (not through bios fan control) that can read/decrease/increase the pumps RPMs?


[I

MG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/3123449/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> That is a lot of components for a DCP pump. Chances are your issues are air bubble related.
> 
> That being said, double check your blocks don't have any blockages.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I will try to check them all.
> 
> I didn't flush the Mono-Block before I used it.
> 
> Some Info's about the Pump: Click
> 
> How it's connected:
> 
> 
> 
> Some Real-World-Photo's:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I blow in, then I have quite some resistance.
> 
> I tried only the GPU's and Mono-Block, but still no luck.
> 
> PS: They managed to send me the wrong size tubing, so I worked with what I had on previous leftovers.
> 
> What would be the strongest EK-Pump ?
Click to expand...

It will be really hard to blow With your mouth if i am understanding you


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It will be really hard to blow With your mouth if i am understanding you


Yeah, I tried it with my mouth, but I opened certain sections of the loop and then I did a blow test again and I think that everything is ok and not blocked.

The pump worked up to the day I pulled everything apart, so it's a bit strange, that it can't even do a partial loop.

It looks like it at the moment, that I will need a larger pump, which will have to wait a bit, because I have firstly to pay some more important bills.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alton brown*
> 
> I have a question, is there software (not through bios fan control) that can read/decrease/increase the pumps RPMs?


Probably. But no real reason to. Pump speed has very little effect on your temps. I tried my D5 at 25% and 100% and there was a couple of degrees difference. Fan speed matters a LOT more.


----------



## war4peace

Largest effect on cooling: Ambient temperature. Then it's fan speed, and pump speed comes last. There are some exceptions though, if pump speed is VERY low (less than 0.5 GPM) you might end up with laminar flow for liquid which reduces cooling performance.


----------



## alton brown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> Probably. But no real reason to. Pump speed has very little effect on your temps. I tried my D5 at 25% and 100% and there was a couple of degrees difference. Fan speed matters a LOT more.


Understood. I was thinking that. Thanks


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK is releasing new monoblocks for ASUS® ROG® Rampage VI Extreme & Apex


Will these new monoblocks work with EK-RAM Monarch X4 modules (is there enough room for both to coexist on the same board)?


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Will these new monoblocks work with EK-RAM Monarch X4 modules (is there enough room for both to coexist on the same board)?


I'm sure it all depends on how tall your ram is.


----------



## iamjanco

Standard G.SKILL Trident Z height. That said, I believe it's the width of the EK modules that are more important in this case.


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Standard G.SKILL Trident Z height. That said, I believe it's the width of the EK modules that are more important in this case.


Looks like it would fit just fine. There's a reason those blocks have adjustable mounting points.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> Looks like it would fit just fine. There's a reason those blocks have adjustable mounting points.


Yeah, I actually dug them out of their boxes and figured that out during this discussion. Looks to be the case


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Will these new monoblocks work with EK-RAM Monarch X4 modules (is there enough room for both to coexist on the same board)?


No problems


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> No problems


Thanks for the confirmation


----------



## war4peace

OK this question is not specific to EK but since I have EK radiators I thought I'd ask:

Soon I will replace my 2x XE360 radiators with 2x CE560 radiators. With that happening, I will put my XE360s "on hold". I already have two friends I would sell them to (1 goes to each) but they will not use them for at least 3-4 months. So what would be the best method to store the radiators and what steps need to be taken to ensure they don't corrode (inside) in the meantime?


----------



## Mega Man

Drain them and leave then somewhere so they can dry


----------



## war4peace

But do they completely dry out? I was thinking of running some warm air through them for a couple hours.


----------



## Mega Man

Yes


----------



## Fediuld

Has EK made any indication which Z370 boards will support with monoblock, and especially are they going to support the mITX Asus Z370i Strix as they did with the Z270i Strix?


----------



## iamjanco

Looks like EK delayed shipment of the R6E monoblock until the 11th of October. They have also updated their installation guide to include installing a heatsink on the Aquantia Ethernet controller.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I advise against using distilled water for anything other than a quick loop clean or test. Solutions such as distilled + kill coil were good back when dedicated coolants were just born or didn't exist at all. Today you can get clear coolant for 7 dollars a liter and it contains biocides and inhibitors. There is no point in using distilled unless you want to live dangerously.


Sorry but this is just so plain Bullpuckey it's mind numbing.

For one Dyes are mixed to Distilled. As are some Treatments.

Now if you simply wish to use distilled and not *maintain* your loop, then you get what you pay for and deserve. But if you flush your loop consistently(6mos cycle here) then there is NO reason to even worry about spending "$7" when you can simply purchase Distilled for ~$2 a Gallon. I get WalMart brand distilled fairly cheaply and it's never once failed me because I am on top of my loop. I don't run any additives or kill coil either.

But hey if you care to subscribe to the nonsense you're pedaling then that's fine. I have Copper and I have Nickel. Hasn't tarnished my Nickel MB block and my copper cleans rather easily with lemon juice.

*As far as your Radiator question...
*
After your Rads are dry store them with Stop plugs to keep corrosion at bay. Air contains water molecules and if not head off with proper storage techniques can help the corrosion process.

Maybe someone else will know, but I have thought that running a bit of 90% content rubbing alcohol through a Radiator and emptied promptly may help in this process as Alcohol at that level would dissipate any water molecules left inside afterward when left to dry and then capped when dry. I thought of this idea because I worked with a DJ back in the 80's who would have me spray a light coat on his Vinyls before handing them to him. After play they would be clean and dry and back in their sleeves. I'm not gonna say that this is a good or bad practice for Radiators, it's just a thought from an old guy who thinks that this may be a worthwhile way to store unused Radiators. The caps though are a must.









~Ceadder


----------



## czin125

Does Z370F VRM waterblock fit the Z370 Apex? It has an EK logo on it.


----------



## arnavvr

Can anyone tell me if Ek sells these in black? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-bottom-white


----------



## ricercar

Hi.
I placed an order on the EK website and I'm wondering how long it typically takes EK orders to ship to the USA.
Anyone care to share their experience?
/r

EDIT:
Thanks for the responses. Appreciate it.


----------



## surfinchina

This is not USA, I'm in New Zealand - the other side of the world from EK shop but I'll share anyway.
My few experiences have been outstanding. Door to door right around the world in a few days, most of that sitting around in customs in my own country.
So this is a kudos to EK post


----------



## Ceadderman

My RMA experience was pretty quick considering it's not technically the same as purchase to delivery. Overall I give them an 8 out of 10 for delivery speed. Only knocking off a couple points since they have no Star Trek transporter option.









Actually I don't give full 10 points only due to not having it same day. But 8 is a durned good grade in my book.









~Ceadder


----------



## ricercar

Holy Moly! @ 2 days and 2 hours over a weekend, delivered to California, I am one delighted customer!


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arnavvr*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if Ek sells these in black? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-bottom-white


They used to, doesn't look like you can get the black bottom anymore without buying a complete reservoir


----------



## DeviousAddict

Are EK planning on doing an AIO for ThreadRipper, or adding the option to change the CPU block for their EK kits?


----------



## emsj86

Where can I buy thermal pads to replace for work ram monarch universal


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Where can I buy thermal pads to replace for work ram monarch universal


*Amazon* has a wide selection, with Fujipoly XR-m arguably being one of the better choices (and an expensive choice). You just need to align the choice of thickness with what EK ships with those modules.


----------



## Fediuld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Where can I buy thermal pads to replace for work ram monarch universal


Thermal Grizzly makes some really good ones.


----------



## emsj86

yea but they cost more than if I just re bought the blocks


----------



## Spiriva

I got the "EK-FB ASUS M9H Monoblock - Nickel" for my Asus Maximus hero IX motherboard. Does anyone know if it will fit on the new Asus Maximus hero X for coffee lake too ? I only seen pictures online for the new hero X motherboard, but it looks like the layout around the cpu looks exactly the same as on my hero ix.

Anyone got some info about this ?

And if it doesnt fit, any idea when EK well release a mono block for the Maximus X ?


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spiriva*
> 
> I got the "EK-FB ASUS M9H Monoblock - Nickel" for my Asus Maximus hero IX motherboard. Does anyone know if it will fit on the new Asus Maximus hero X for coffee lake too ? I only seen pictures online for the new hero X motherboard, but it looks like the layout around the cpu looks exactly the same as on my hero ix.
> 
> Anyone got some info about this ?
> 
> And if it doesnt fit, any idea when EK well release a mono block for the Maximus X ?


according to this, it wont fit https://www.ekwb.com/configurator//,... and new monoblock is on the way


----------



## Spiriva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> according to this, it wont fit https://www.ekwb.com/configurator//,... and new monoblock is on the way


Ah okay, thank you for the info.
Im still debating with my self if i should "upgrade" to coffee or not, its fun with new hardware altho next year Cannonlake/Icelake will be here, and maybe that is the better way to go.


----------



## Cozmo85

The gigabyte z270x monoblock looks like it might be compatible with the z370 gaming 7 board but damn if they would just confirm it.

https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/waterblock/3831109821664

z370


z270


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> The gigabyte z270x monoblock looks like it might be compatible with the z370 gaming 7 board but damn if they would just confirm it.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/waterblock/3831109821664
> 
> z370
> 
> 
> z270


but you have it there obviously







fits Z370 gaming 7


----------



## stefxyz

Guys, I go crazy, this week my binned 8700k will arrive and I will not have a mainboard to put it on. Strix is too low spec for what I want. Maximus Formula with VRM cooling is not released yet. And Maximus Hero X old monoblock is not compatible. So only choice would be to go Maximus Hero X buy the normal MX Evo block and wait for a mono block to arrive which isnt comfirmed tehy will ever build... And 100 Euro wasted too..


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fediuld*
> 
> Has EK made any indication which Z370 boards will support with monoblock, and especially are they going to support the mITX Asus Z370i Strix as they did with the Z270i Strix?


The EK-FB ASUS Z270I Strix RGB Monoblock is compatible with the Z370i Strix









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Where can I buy thermal pads to replace for work ram monarch universal


https://www.ekwb.com/shop/thermal-pad-e-0-5mm-ram-8x









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spiriva*
> 
> I got the "EK-FB ASUS M9H Monoblock - Nickel" for my Asus Maximus hero IX motherboard. Does anyone know if it will fit on the new Asus Maximus hero X for coffee lake too ? I only seen pictures online for the new hero X motherboard, but it looks like the layout around the cpu looks exactly the same as on my hero ix.
> 
> Anyone got some info about this ?
> 
> And if it doesnt fit, any idea when EK well release a mono block for the Maximus X ?


Yes, it's compatible with the Hero X.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> The gigabyte z270x monoblock looks like it might be compatible with the z370 gaming 7 board but damn if they would just confirm it.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/waterblock/3831109821664
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> z370
> 
> 
> z270


The EK-FB GA Z270X RGB Monoblock is compatible with the Z370 Gaming 7


----------



## BlackFox1337

I recently upgraded my case and watercooling loop. Just want to say how happy i am with the new EK PE360 Rads i put in. They cool much better than the old rads i had. Now running EK D5 vario 250 Xres with 2x PE360 Rads. Temps idle at 25c CPU (6700k) and 35c GPU (390x).


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackFox1337*
> 
> I recently upgraded my case and watercooling loop. Just want to say how happy i am with the new EK PE360 Rads i put in. They cool much better than the old rads i had. Now running EK D5 vario 250 Xres with 2x PE360 Rads. Temps idle at 25c CPU (6700k) and 35c GPU (390x).


What rads were you using before?


----------



## Goofy Flow

Any tips for remove the EK badge from the Supremacy all nickel without damage the surface of the waterblock itself?

I think hot air should be right for the first step, but for remove the badge I need a knife or something like that but I'm afraid of ruining the surface.

Any tips are welcome









@Akira749 you know how to do for sure!


----------



## emsj86

i would use a heat gun and maybe try a credit hard to get it to peel up first if not use a knife but moreto just gentle peal the ek badge up


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Flow*
> 
> Any tips for remove the EK badge from the Supremacy all nickel without damage the surface of the waterblock itself?
> 
> I think hot air should be right for the first step, but for remove the badge I need a knife or something like that but I'm afraid of ruining the surface.
> 
> Any tips are welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Akira749 you know how to do for sure!


All my badges (Cpu Block...Rads...Pump...Res..) just felt down with a good push...no hot gun or anything else involved...IDK what kind of glue sorcery you have there


----------



## Goofy Flow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> i would use a heat gun and maybe try a credit hard to get it to peel up first if not use a knife but moreto just gentle peal the ek badge up


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> All my badges (Cpu Block...Rads...Pump...Res..) just felt down with a good push...no hot gun or anything else involved...IDK what kind of glue sorcery you have there


Thanks guys, for remove the badge I use... the thinner jet plate included with the waterblock, no heat gun or anything else, just the jet plate Lol


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Flow*
> 
> Any tips for remove the EK badge from the Supremacy all nickel without damage the surface of the waterblock itself?
> 
> I think hot air should be right for the first step, but for remove the badge I need a knife or something like that but I'm afraid of ruining the surface.
> 
> Any tips are welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Akira749 you know how to do for sure!


I know your fear









Even when I have to do it on an Acetal or Plexi it freaks me out a bit. But, it's fearly easy to do, to be honest.









With the tip of an X-Acto blade or a Razor Blade, you'll be able to reach the badge just between the metal cap and the foam sticker and gently pry it out.


----------



## Goofy Flow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I know your fear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even when I have to do it on an Acetal or Plexi it freaks me out a bit. But, it's fearly easy to do, to be honest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the tip of an X-Acto blade or a Razor Blade, you'll be able to reach the badge just between the metal cap and the foam sticker and gently pry it out.


Hey akira, yes it's easy, I use the thinner jet plate and the badge came off with no stress


----------



## Ceadderman

I used my fingernail on my Acrylics to remove and reorient my badges.









~Ceadder


----------



## huckincharlie

some ek love in current project


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huckincharlie*
> 
> some ek love in current project


Nice. Leaning towards the full nickel block for my next project as well.


----------



## pnuttz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huckincharlie*
> 
> some ek love in current project


Damn thats clean.


----------



## Ceadderman

Is that chrome or stainless tubing? Looks sick! An I'm not a huge fan of shiny shiny things in my loops.









~Ceadder


----------



## huckincharlie

Thx








These are chromed copper pipes.


----------



## Garrett1974NL

Hi,

I have this holder for my D5 pump:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-holder-d5-v3

I slightly modded the holder with 4 grommets, like the one in this photo in the bottom left:
http://www.customgasketmfg.com/Images/Rubber-Grommets-Bushings.jpg
They fit perfectly and I assume they will help with reducing vibrations even more...right?

But... I also have this holder for the D5 pump:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-revo-d5-pump-mount

and to top it off, I also have the soft rubber decoupler for it, just in case








https://www.ekwb.com/shop/revo-d5-decoupler-soft

So as you can see, I could say I came prepared.
However, I'm curious to know what YOU guys think will be the best solution if I want to run the pump as quiet as possible.
I don't think you can really go wrong with any solution, but I want to maximize, or in this case minimize, the noise being generated by the pump, both in sound and vibration








What do you guys think?


----------



## Jubijub

Question regarding pass-through : what is the good approach to tighten them ?

The thumb ring doesn't hold in place very well, any force on the fittings I plug to them unscrews it...


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Question regarding pass-through : what is the good approach to tighten them ?
> 
> The thumb ring doesn't hold in place very well, any force on the fittings I plug to them unscrews it...


I put a o-ring on the thumb screw side. This give the thumb screw something to snug up to. The o-ring puts a little back pressure on the thumb screw. This tends to keep it I place..


----------



## Ceadderman

I tend to use a couple thread rings to lock things down. If you have an extra thread ring, use that one to tighten as normal as far as it will let you, then use the stock one to cinch down to the other one. This is the lockdown method as applied from long thread bolts using two nuts. You can also use some loctite on the thread of any bolt to hold even a single thread ring in place.









~Ceadder


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garrett1974NL*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have this holder for my D5 pump:
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-holder-d5-v3
> 
> I slightly modded the holder with 4 grommets, like the one in this photo in the bottom left:
> http://www.customgasketmfg.com/Images/Rubber-Grommets-Bushings.jpg
> They fit perfectly and I assume they will help with reducing vibrations even more...right?
> 
> But... I also have this holder for the D5 pump:
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-revo-d5-pump-mount
> 
> and to top it off, I also have the soft rubber decoupler for it, just in case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/revo-d5-decoupler-soft
> 
> So as you can see, I could say I came prepared.
> However, I'm curious to know what YOU guys think will be the best solution if I want to run the pump as quiet as possible.
> I don't think you can really go wrong with any solution, but I want to maximize, or in this case minimize, the noise being generated by the pump, both in sound and vibration
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?


I have used EK's D5 pump/res combos on my last two builds with the included mounts (the Revo D5 pump mount) using an EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm FAN) Vertical and there has been no noise. Even with the fans at 25% I couldn't hear the pump, and this is on a Thermaltake Core P5 open-air case (my sig rig). I run the pump at 50%.


----------



## Garrett1974NL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> I have used EK's D5 pump/res combos on my last two builds with the included mounts (the Revo D5 pump mount) using an EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm FAN) Vertical and there has been no noise. Even with the fans at 25% I couldn't hear the pump, and this is on a Thermaltake Core P5 open-air case (my sig rig). I run the pump at 50%.


You don't need/use the softer rubber decoupler with it?


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garrett1974NL*
> 
> You don't need/use the softer rubber decoupler with it?


I haven't needed it. The computer is sitting within an inch or two of the side of my monitor and I've never been able to hear the pump over the fan noise. If I unplug the fans, then I can hear the pump. And that's my experience with two EK D5 pumps, bought a year apart (sold the first system, still running the second). Going with another EK D5 pump/res combo for my next one, building around February or so.


----------



## youngjnr

Getting there ... almost nearly finished









Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youngjnr*
> 
> Getting there ... almost nearly finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


Spot the deliberate mistake.
Hope you're going to join up the GPUs...


----------



## youngjnr

haha i am just waiting for parts to arrive


----------



## Garrett1974NL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> I haven't needed it. The computer is sitting within an inch or two of the side of my monitor and I've never been able to hear the pump over the fan noise. If I unplug the fans, then I can hear the pump. And that's my experience with two EK D5 pumps, bought a year apart (sold the first system, still running the second). Going with another EK D5 pump/res combo for my next one, building around February or so.


So it doesn't really matter if I use the 'old' pump bracket with the 4 rubbers or the new one with the rubber ring in the holder?


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garrett1974NL*
> 
> So it doesn't really matter if I use the 'old' pump bracket with the 4 rubbers or the new one with the rubber ring in the holder?


Based on my experience with two EK D5 pumps, I wouldn't expect any major vibration or noise. As long as the mount you use has some rubber or soft foam, it should be good.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> I have used EK's D5 pump/res combos on my last two builds with the included mounts (the Revo D5 pump mount) using an EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm FAN) Vertical and there has been no noise. Even with the fans at 25% I couldn't hear the pump, and this is on a Thermaltake Core P5 open-air case (my sig rig). I run the pump at 50%.


You don't usually get vibrational noise with open cases though...

D5's can definitely make a significant amount of noise given the right conditions, however it can often be better to run them at full speed as it changes the tone to a high pitch, which is a lot less potent to propagate through the hardware, as well as being easier to block with some foam. This can be a particular thing with dual-D5's as well as lower RPM's can make the pumps groan like it were an engine in a bus (ie; it's like a gggRRRRrrrrRRRRrrrr), which are almost impossible to block out as it'll pass through rubber, unless you did a form of floating mount. I just run them at max RPM as the noise isn't really any louder than everything else, even the chokes in a lot of basic USB chargers are louder, rubber does super well at isolating high frequencies.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> You don't usually get vibrational noise with open cases though...
> 
> D5's can definitely make a significant amount of noise given the right conditions, however it can often be better to run them at full speed as it changes the tone to a high pitch, which is a lot less potent to propagate through the hardware, as well as being easier to block with some foam. This can be a particular thing with dual-D5's as well as lower RPM's can make the pumps groan like it were an engine in a bus (ie; it's like a gggRRRRrrrrRRRRrrrr), which are almost impossible to block out as it'll pass through rubber, unless you did a form of floating mount. I just run them at max RPM as the noise isn't really any louder than everything else, even the chokes in a lot of basic USB chargers are louder, rubber does super well at isolating high frequencies.


I found running my D5 at setting 3 was the sweet spot for me and my case (Phanteks Enthoo Luxe TG). I'm using the EK D5 Revo top with a bay spin reservoir, and I can't hear a thing even at low fan RPM's around 600'ish


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> You don't usually get vibrational noise with open cases though...


The first EK D5 I had wasn't in an open-air case. It was in a Corsair Carbide 200R.

And I wasn't talking about vibrational noise -- just pure vibration. Neither one of my EK D5s had much vibration period. HWinfo64 says it's running at 2,030-2,050 RPM right now. At that speed I can't hear it, and there's almost no vibration due to the rubber ring. You would probably only get any noise from it if you mounted it directly to something without any rubber or foam.


----------



## Biggu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youngjnr*
> 
> Getting there ... almost nearly finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


I would also suggest just getting rid of that 120mm in the back of the case. Its not going to provide any additional cooling and you can clean up the lines alot. Especially that one that goes to the GPU


----------



## Ricwin

Whats everyones thoughts on the EK A240 kit? Seems like a good deal at Overclockers UK, coincidentally at the same time I was looking at jumping into custom loops and moving away from AIO coolers.

EK Water Blocks A240 Fluid Gaming Bundle - Red - £150.04


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ricwin*
> 
> Whats everyones thoughts on the EK A240 kit? Seems like a good deal at Overclockers UK, coincidentally at the same time I was looking at jumping into custom loops and moving away from AIO coolers.
> 
> EK Water Blocks A240 Fluid Gaming Bundle - Red - £150.04


Fluid Gaming is Aluminium only. You can't mix it with copper. I mean you can but will destroy your loop through corrosion.


----------



## Ricwin

I'm well aware of those restrictions, and I'm not planning to add a GPU block anyway.
My biggest concerns about getting an aluminium kit is lack of compatible extra parts such as reservoirs and drain ports.


----------



## MNMadman

You seem to have a handle on the aluminum limitations.

And yeah, the lack of extra parts can be a concern. It wouldn't be for me, as I've never had a drain port or extra reservoirs in any of my loops.

Still considering an A240G kit plus a 240 or 360 expansion pack for my next build in February. Wish they had a version that came with a D5 pump though.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ricwin*
> 
> Whats everyones thoughts on the EK A240 kit? Seems like a good deal at Overclockers UK, coincidentally at the same time I was looking at jumping into custom loops and moving away from AIO coolers.
> 
> EK Water Blocks A240 Fluid Gaming Bundle - Red - £150.04


It'd definitely be a good replacement for an AIO as it's much more maintainable and can be expanded, the downside with these particular kits though is that you're restricted to _only_ aluminium components, if you wanted to start using copper you'll have to replace the entire loop as you cant mix aluminium with anything else, even with extreme corrosion inhibitors.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ricwin*
> 
> I'm well aware of those restrictions, and I'm not planning to add a GPU block anyway.
> My biggest concerns about getting an aluminium kit is lack of compatible extra parts such as reservoirs and drain ports.


Most reservoirs should be fine though as they're usually plastic, you just have to be aware of the ports and make sure you only use plastic stoppers (of which seems to be the norm now with EK reservoirs).


----------



## Barefooter

Awfully quiet around here lately... eight days with no posts.

@akira749 do you know if EK is going to make a water block for the Intel 900P SSD like the one for the 750 series?


----------



## fbmowner

Here's some noise! I havent really shared the ton of updates I've done to my build so here is a recent shot.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fbmowner*
> 
> Here's some noise! I havent really shared the ton of updates I've done to my build so here is a recent shot.


Super clean, nice style


----------



## ADWL

Hi everyone. Having an issue with my first water cooling build. I am using all EK products except for the GPU block from Phanteks.

Here is the system:

Phanteks Shift X
7700k delidded (conductonaut LM)- Ek Z270i monoblock
Asus Z270i
1080ti FE - phanteks block
240SE rad on front
120 PE rad on bottom
EK pump/res
Vardar furious on all rads
Soft tubing
Running distilled water

Got the system together last night and ran the loop alone to bleed air, then booted the system. Got to desktop and temps were very high up to 70s and 80s just when the processor ramped up at desktop and mid 30s at idle. The GPU was at 20c. Cpu was close to throttling at certain spikes. Shut down after about a minut because it wa smaking me nervous. Since I was getting only up to about high 60c on cpu (delidded) with my H80i V2 oc to 4.9 at 1.28v before the custom loop, and about 29c at idle on the cpu, I figured the monoblock was not making good contact.

Sure enough after disassembling this morning I noticed that the thermal paste had not spread. I used the dot method. Now this is the only part of the instructions I did not follow because I used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut instead of the included grease since I had it open and it performed flawlessly on My AIO. Awesome I thought problem solved, remount the block, make sure everything is nice and tight.

Reassembled filled her up, got the bubbles out and booted again. Almost had a heart attack because I got a red cpu led on the motherboard which morphed into a dram warning. Cleared cmos and booted with one stick and got to BIOS. Temps looked a little better so booted to windows where idle was about 30c and gpu was still frosty at 20c. I wasn't getting the same spikes, as before and the bsystem seemed ok. Cracked open a beer for figuring it out and got to some testing. And that's where I got deflated once again.

Real Bench bench mark hit 100c and throttled.
Aida 64 only cpu test was hitting mid 70s
Heaven benchmark cou went to 70s GPU only went to 30c

So my guess is I still have problem with the block making contact. When mounting the block, should I skip the rubber washers between the back of the pcb and the mounting screws around the cpu? Maybe that extra few mm will solve it? There's no way it's the thermal grizzly, right? I used it on the gpu block and everythings good there. I have the correct inlet and outlet ports. The GPU is before the CPU in the loop but that shouldn't matter, right? My water temps stuck at around 26 when stressing the cpu but climbed to about 30 when on the gpu, so more evidence of poor cpu contact. I removed the protective sticker on the comtact plate on the monoblock. After delidding i only put a little bit of silicone on the IHS, so maybe that is making height difference?

If there are no other ideas, removing the washers is my next step. that probably won't even help with contact on the other side of the pcb.

Thanks for any ideas.


----------



## nycgtr

Figure I throw this in there for the peeps who don't check the x399 forums.

Do not buy the EK tr or x399 EK block for TR. They perform identical for cpu cooling. Running aida64 and prime95 it's not even 1 degree different as it goes thru the paces. In the same testing conditions with the same setup. I have a difference of 13c in prime 95 on avg and in aida64 compared to the xspc block. 4ghz @ 1.35v 1.37 max in prime 95. Considering the byski and phanteks are close to xspc it is a total fail.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADWL*
> 
> Hi everyone. Having an issue with my first water cooling build. I am using all EK products except for the GPU block from Phanteks.
> 
> Here is the system:
> 
> Phanteks Shift X
> 7700k delidded (conductonaut LM)- Ek Z270i monoblock
> Asus Z270i
> 1080ti FE - phanteks block
> 240SE rad on front
> 120 PE rad on bottom
> EK pump/res
> Vardar furious on all rads
> Soft tubing
> Running distilled water
> .


Hi there, lets start with the basics...
I too have a Mini Itx board..
2 Things happened to me that give similar results to yours..; are you using a CPU block only or mono block ? with the mono block my pump was too weak to dissipate heat. with CPU block only the block itself was hitting some caps near the processor socket so it was "hanging" with a bit of patience I managed to snug it past those and now it's perfect









Please update us with your findings.


----------



## ADWL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Hi there, lets start with the basics...
> I too have a Mini Itx board..
> 2 Things happened to me that give similar results to yours..; are you using a CPU block only or mono block ? with the mono block my pump was too weak to dissipate heat. with CPU block only the block itself was hitting some caps near the processor socket so it was "hanging" with a bit of patience I managed to snug it past those and now it's perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please update us with your findings.


I am using a monoblock. The loop goes Pump-GPU-CPU monoblock-240mm rad-120mm rad-Pump

There are no kinks that I can see. As far as I know I got what seems to be top of the line pump/ res from EK the xres 140 Revo D5, I'd think a mini itx loop would be childs play for it given other builds I have seen.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADWL*
> 
> I am using a monoblock. The loop goes Pump-GPU-CPU monoblock-240mm rad-120mm rad-Pump
> 
> There are no kinks that I can see. As far as I know I got what seems to be top of the line pump/ res from EK the xres 140 Revo D5, I'd think a mini itx loop would be childs play for it given other builds I have seen.


If you have mono block, remove the black plastic washers..that fixed it for me but it scratched my MB so be careful
Also at a close inspection my mono block was not straight ...it was bent..(2 legs on the opposite corners were lower than the other 2..)

I had CPU --> 240 Rad --> 240 Rad --> Res --> Pump.. ( My pump was EKWB XTOP SPC 60 Plexi PWM you having the D5 I imagine you have enough turbulence for CPU and VRM)

When I removed washers the mono block went down..and sat on the capacitors and not the CPU itself so you might need to slightly bend/move them away from the mono block..
Just be careful not to rip them off your MB so use gentle force..


----------



## becks

@ADWL BTW...can you give us a picture of the mono block...Just want to make sure you connected the lines to it correctly (IN and OUT) they gave me up to 10 C more when I connected them wrong (OUT was IN and In was OUT)


----------



## elderan

Finished my new build here are some pics of the EK stuff.

EK D5 Pumps, EK RGB Res. I wrapped a silverstone rgb strip around each pump to create the rgb pump look.


EK Monoblock


Full system, I like the blue better but wanted to show the system is full RGB using Asus Aura Sync


----------



## ADWL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> @ADWL BTW...can you give us a picture of the mono block...Just want to make sure you connected the lines to it correctly (IN and OUT) they gave me up to 10 C more when I connected them wrong (OUT was IN and In was OUT)


Thanks for the suggestions so far. About to tackle this again now that I am back from work. Here is the photo. The water comes out of the GPU on the left side out of sight and in to the "the G1/4 port nearest to the right edge of the water block" as written in the instructions. I am going to examine the block to make sure it is straight and see about removing the black feet from the block. I will post pictures of the TIM spread as well if I remember to stop and take out the phone.



Let you know what happens.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADWL*


If you check this here: http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/19590#post_26083373 and couple of pages before and after you will find all the info you need.

And yes, the in / out is right on the monoblock.
You will also see in those picture I had my monoblock without those washers.









Happy reading


----------



## ADWL

Ok, just got the block off, and as suspected, the spread of the TIM is better than my first attempt, but still not good enough I think. I am going to remove the rubber feet and see what happens. Are the feet out of spec due to a manufacturing defect?


----------



## ADWL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADWL*
> 
> Ok, just got the block off, and as suspected, the spread of the TIM is better than my first attempt, but still not good enough I think. I am going to remove the rubber feet and see what happens. Are the feet out of spec due to a manufacturing defect?


I just took the feet off and tightened the block down to see the difference. Looks much better. Of course now I need to make sure I don't over tighten and break something on the board.


----------



## elderan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADWL*
> 
> I just took the feet off and tightened the block down to see the difference. Looks much better. Of course now I need to make sure I don't over tighten and break something on the board.


Your first TIM job looked alot like what I dealt with on a new gpu waterblock install recently. The block wasnt all the way on the gpu so I had to use some custom stuff to get it touching more evenly. Just make sure not to over tighten and create uneven sides.


----------



## ADWL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elderan*
> 
> Your first TIM job looked alot like what I dealt with on a new gpu waterblock install recently. The block wasnt all the way on the gpu so I had to use some custom stuff to get it touching more evenly. Just make sure not to over tighten and create uneven sides.


Yea. She's back together and leak testing while i spend some time with the wife so she doesn't get any more jealous. I first used the "more torque option" on the cpu allen screws and went just to resistance and noticed a little bending on one side of the pcb. Loosened all screws then used the "less torque option" on the allen wrench and went till i met resistance then on more light crank and it looks good now. Will post results in a few hours. If this doesn't work I am out of ideas and contact customer service.


----------



## ADWL

Alright guys. Just ran RealBench benchmark that hit 100c last night, and after removing the rubber feet from the monoblock, now I am hitting a max of 67 with all cores within 2c. So, thank you for the help. Can't say I am happy about the situation though. What's up with the poor manufacturing or engineering that made this necessary? Way too much work to fix a factory issued problem.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Awfully quiet around here lately... eight days with no posts.
> 
> @akira749 do you know if EK is going to make a water block for the Intel 900P SSD like the one for the 750 series?


Not that I heard of.


----------



## war4peace

I have a question: Is EK considering extending its fitting portfolio to include white fittings and connectors? I'm forced to buy those from other makers and that means my build lost the "EK exclusive" feature completely. EK products in my build will soon become a minority.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I have a question: Is EK considering extending its fitting portfolio to include white fittings and connectors? I'm forced to buy those from other makers and that means my build lost the "EK exclusive" feature completely. EK products in my build will soon become a minority.


Not exactly a bad thing when it comes to fittings tbh.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Don't understand the distaste towards EK's fittings, so far that's all I use next to Barrow. Wish BitsPower would ditch the painted on logos


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Don't understand the distaste towards EK's fittings, so far that's all I use next to Barrow. Wish BitsPower would ditch the painted on logos


The valves are fine. However, the compression fittings the finish is junk and so is the nickel coating. Their black elbows 90 deg and double rotary, I've had 5 of them leak.


----------



## crazycuz2k

I have the 1st gen compression fittings, the finish on the nickel coating used to be so much worse. It had a yellowish tint.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Don't understand the distaste towards EK's fittings, so far that's all I use next to Barrow. Wish BitsPower would ditch the painted on logos


All EK stuff I used so far was good, the problem is I am doing an all-white watercooling build and EK only carries white HDC fittings, that's all. No connectors, 90-degrees, splits, nothing else. Trying to source white WC components from other websites but I encounter issues.
Aliexpress has suspended my newly created account and I contacted them, they said it was a DB error and still my account is locked.
FormulaMOD - they apparently have a bug where I can't add more than 14 types of fittings, they have not answered my messages.
FreezeMOD - they don't carry all I need.
ModDIY - they only carry a limited variety and won't bring more (I asked)
Ebay - shipping costs are insane.

It's really frustrating, looks like my build will take a long time to finish and would cost more than expected.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> All EK stuff I used so far was good, the problem is I am doing an all-white watercooling build and EK only carries white HDC fittings, that's all. No connectors, 90-degrees, splits, nothing else. Trying to source white WC components from other websites but I encounter issues.
> Aliexpress has suspended my newly created account and I contacted them, they said it was a DB error and still my account is locked.
> FormulaMOD - they apparently have a bug where I can't add more than 14 types of fittings, they have not answered my messages.
> FreezeMOD - they don't carry all I need.
> ModDIY - they only carry a limited variety and won't bring more (I asked)
> Ebay - shipping costs are insane.
> 
> It's really frustrating, looks like my build will take a long time to finish and would cost more than expected.


Did you take a look at Monsoon's offerings? I plan to use their fittings when I go glass. Pretty cool rotary fittings.


----------



## war4peace

The fittings themselves are not the problem. Everything else is: 90 degrees, spacers, extenders, T-, X-, Y-connectors, 180 degrees connectors, etc. Those are the ones which don't come in white, with the exception of Bitspower, but I'm sorry, they have ripoff prices. A triple rotary 90-degree extension is 34.50 dollars, and I can get a Barrow one for 12 bucks. You can bend over and shell the money if you need one, but I would need over 100 pieces of various types for my build and frankly can't spend 1500+ dollars on fittings alone.

Sorry for offtopic but as I was saying, it's frustrating. If I needed a weird color such as fuchsia







I would have expected limited availability, but white should really have been more prevalent.


----------



## um2802

OFF:
Bine-ai venit in clubul racire cu apa custom









Welcome to custom watercooling


----------



## KCDC

You could have them power coated any color you want once you get them.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> The fittings themselves are not the problem. Everything else is: 90 degrees, spacers, extenders, T-, X-, Y-connectors, 180 degrees connectors, etc. Those are the ones which don't come in white, with the exception of Bitspower, but I'm sorry, they have ripoff prices. A triple rotary 90-degree extension is 34.50 dollars, and I can get a Barrow one for 12 bucks. You can bend over and shell the money if you need one, but I would need over 100 pieces of various types for my build and frankly can't spend 1500+ dollars on fittings alone.
> 
> Sorry for offtopic but as I was saying, it's frustrating. If I needed a weird color such as *fuchsia*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have expected limited availability, but white should really have been more prevalent.


I agree that white is a pretty common color. It's second only to black as far as common PC colors go.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> You could have them power coated any color you want once you get them.


That would be silly. Powder coating should be reserved for *fuschia* fittings only.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> You could have them power coated any color you want once you get them.


Why not make my own, since we started down that path?








Now seriously powder coating only works up to some extent. Complex rotary fittings are not that easy to repaint and costs would go through the roof.


----------



## KCDC

I'm planning to set up my own little powder-coat station.. Aside from the 80 dollar electric blower gun, it's just a toaster oven needed, and the powder of course. Or an electric smoker that goes up to 450 if you wanna go bigger. Pretty sure the rotaries could just get gunned and baked after a light sanding, with internals and threads masked? Regardless, it is way more work, but just an option I felt like mentioning since we all seem to be pretty heavy DIY guys... and powder coating's pretty easy to do on your own with a little setup.

Could be fun







Masking the inside of each fitting could get pretty annoying, however.


----------



## Barefooter

Powder coating requires backing in an oven. I would be concerned what that would do to the internal o-rings on a rotary fitting.

Not worth the leak risk if you ask me.


----------



## KCDC

I was under the impression rotary fittings could be taken apart and rebuilt. I was mistaken.


----------



## svx94

Ordered my first EK-Kit (P360) and officially join the club









EK service is quite impressive. People are nice, response to emails very quickly, and inform me every detail about the order and shipment.








I wrote to *Klemen* from support/order, and *Ana* from shipping. All great people to deal with.









I designed my loop quite carefully on paper based on the P360 kit, added a 1080 ti Gigabyte GPU (with build-in block), a drain port and a flush port. Upgraded to a longer reservoir (204mm) with multiport top. The water will flow back from the top so it can bleed better.

Did not go for the Monoblock. Seems too difficult to make perfect contact with both CPU and VRM, and it will likely to make my CPU hoter. I don't plan to do OC much, so a good inside airflow will do.

To be honest, the air flow design took me longer and more fun, that includes selection of case, a TT Core V71 TG. The Core X9 will leave too much empty room and too difficult to move. I don't really like to look of the Core V71 TG, but function wise, it is near perfect.

Will go home for Christmas and get my first build since college time !


----------



## s3k4t0r

Hi
got question i just have bought EKWB 980 GTX TI WF3 block and i just wonder is there better way of connecting it to loop or inlet and outlet really make no difference in temperature wise?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s3k4t0r*
> 
> Hi
> got question i just have bought EKWB 980 GTX TI WF3 block and i just wonder is there better way of connecting it to loop or inlet and outlet really make no difference in temperature wise?


It makes very little difference. There is an ideal way that I'm sure the instructions will tell you but in the end we're talking a couple degrees at best.


----------



## war4peace

Actually GPU waterblocks of that kind feature reversible liquid flow design - meaning you can set the input and output any way you want:
- up->up
- down->down
- left-down->right up (and reverse)
- left-up->right down (and reverse)


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s3k4t0r*
> 
> Hi
> got question i just have bought EKWB 980 GTX TI WF3 block and i just wonder is there better way of connecting it to loop or inlet and outlet really make no difference in temperature wise?


Straight from the manual.
Quote:


> You can use any opening as an inlet/outlet port.


So go with whatever port you like.


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s3k4t0r*
> 
> Hi
> got question i just have bought EKWB 980 GTX TI WF3 block and i just wonder is there better way of connecting it to loop or inlet and outlet really make no difference in temperature wise?


For Gigabyte Waterforce GPU, it does have direction. And you can see the water channel is finer toward the outlet direction. So in that case, you need to follow the suggested way.

If your WB doesn't say anything, you are free to do either way.


----------



## Kana Chan

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-se-560
A new quad 140 SE


----------



## s3k4t0r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svx94*
> 
> For Gigabyte Waterforce GPU, it does have direction. And you can see the water channel is finer toward the outlet direction. So in that case, you need to follow the suggested way.
> 
> If your WB doesn't say anything, you are free to do either way.


Hi
No fun channels are the same size all way through but I was thinking that maybe some one made some testing and find out better direction of flow
Instruction have "use either way"


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kana Chan*
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-se-560
> A new quad 140 SE


Nice! Added to my wishlist.


----------



## Leonko

more that that i would like to see XE 560 and 280 mm rads,.... @akira749 ?


----------



## KCDC

Are 560 rads mostly for external applications? Caselabs is probably the only case that can fit them, right? I'd love to fit one in a case, they're massive and that one from EK is pretty dang sleek.


----------



## war4peace

Thermaltake W100 and W200 also can fit them easily.
And yes, they are mainly cheaper Caselabs-style steel cases









I happen to have recently bought a W200 and currently waiting for my Mo-Ra 420 to arrive. Thinking about buying a couple 560 rads to mount in that case as well, replacing my existing XE360 radiator pair. But no rush as of yet.

I am not sure whether the Corsair 900D can fit 560 rads with some modding, I know it fits 480 rads. But generally very few cases are that big.


----------



## czin125

Core X9 could fit a 540mm ( 180x3 ) if they sold a panel for it. It looks like it could fit.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Don't understand the distaste towards EK's fittings, so far that's all I use next to Barrow. Wish BitsPower would ditch the painted on logos


SFAIK the BP units aren't painted on they are actually plated that way. You could try to remove the logo but if you inspect them you may notice that there is a difference in the height of the plating/finish compared to the logo. It's imperceptible to the naked eye but it's there.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> SFAIK the BP units aren't painted on they are actually plated that way. You could try to remove the logo but if you inspect them you may notice that there is a difference in the height of the plating/finish compared to the logo. It's imperceptible to the naked eye but it's there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The logo is the reason why I go for EK's adapters and Barrow's


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> The logo is the reason why I go for EK's adapters and Barrow's


This. And the rip-off price on some adapters. Random example for a certain similar adapter: Barrow costs 12 bucks while Bitspower costs 35 bucks AND has an annoying logo.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s3k4t0r*
> 
> Hi
> got question i just have bought EKWB 980 GTX TI WF3 block and i just wonder is there better way of connecting it to loop or inlet and outlet really make no difference in temperature wise?


Since everyone's gonna tell you there is no difference, I will tell you there is a difference but it's up to you to decide how much it means to you.

The jetplate design means that if you use the PCIe Bracket side port as the inlet, you are getting optimal thermal transfer between the core fins and the water due to the transition of water from Laminar flow (efficient for bulk transfer but inefficient for interface transfer) to Turbulent flow. This means a temperature difference of anywhere between 2C-5C depending on your flow rate.

If you were to invert the ports, then you lose this optimized turbulent flow effect and you will only get a partial turbulence within the transfer fins.

There is also a difference between the backplate side of the ports and the GPU side. The backplate side of the ports have thinner thread area than the GPU side meaning you gotta double check every fitting. If your fitting is standard length, you may find that there is some unnecessary flow restriction if you use the backplate side ports thus reducing your overall loop performance (though probably not noticeable). This can be mitigated by using an EK extender (which uses thin threads).

These are the facts, take of it what you will.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just ordered the new X3-250 RGB, need to retire the Aqualis Pro 450. Plus already have EK parts for the rest of Gray Scale's cooling (still hunting for a good deal on a PE360).


----------



## elderan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just ordered the new X3-250 RGB, need to retire the Aqualis Pro 450. Plus already have EK parts for the rest of Gray Scale's cooling (still hunting for a good deal on a PE360).


I love my RGB res.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Should work great with the light gray pastel I have waited to be used.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Don't understand the distaste towards EK's fittings, so far that's all I use next to Barrow. Wish BitsPower would ditch the painted on logos
> 
> 
> 
> SFAIK the BP units aren't painted on they are actually plated that way. You could try to remove the logo but if you inspect them you may notice that there is a difference in the height of the plating/finish compared to the logo. It's imperceptible to the naked eye but it's there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Laser etched on


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> These are the facts, take of it what you will.


Do these facts have a reference? Are they documented somewhere?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Do these facts have a reference? Are they documented somewhere?


Yes, but unfortunately, watercooling has become so mainstream now that nobody actually has the expertise that the people who came before had.

https://www.bit-tech.net/reviews/modding/watercooling_201_understanding_waterblocks/1/

http://www.overclockers.com/waterblock-design-with-detailed-technical-drawings/

https://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=684634

Take the first link which explains the turbulence vs Laminar principle. Then take the evolution of waterblock design. Add 2 + 2 together and it becomes obvious why the jetplate design was used in the EK waterblock and why NOT following the design will reduce performance.

That being said, EK are obviously not stupid so they did somewhat design their blocks to be not as reliant on the jet impingement for maximum performance (EK blocks are technically high flow designs which compensate for their relatively low transfer efficiency with water flow rather than high restriction) which is why for practical reasons we don't see a massive difference in cooling performance.


----------



## antmanknows

okay would someone explain to me why ek rads say 90 percent copper is that just a reference to the fact they have brass ends or is it that they are made of a copper alloy ?

smile make em wonder
antman


----------



## iggy097

Got my P360 up and running, I love the setup - but while I'm rendering a movie it starts to smell. I'm using the clear Cryo that they included with the kit.
I would assume this is normal, and I hope it will go away after time.
Can anyone verify?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Since everyone's gonna tell you there is no difference, I will tell you there is a difference but it's up to you to decide how much it means to you.
> 
> The jetplate design means that if you use the PCIe Bracket side port as the inlet, you are getting optimal thermal transfer between the core fins and the water due to the transition of water from Laminar flow (efficient for bulk transfer but inefficient for interface transfer) to Turbulent flow. This means a temperature difference of anywhere between 2C-5C depending on your flow rate.
> 
> If you were to invert the ports, then you lose this optimized turbulent flow effect and you will only get a partial turbulence within the transfer fins.
> 
> There is also a difference between the backplate side of the ports and the GPU side. The backplate side of the ports have thinner thread area than the GPU side meaning you gotta double check every fitting. If your fitting is standard length, you may find that there is some unnecessary flow restriction if you use the backplate side ports thus reducing your overall loop performance (though probably not noticeable). This can be mitigated by using an EK extender (which uses thin threads).
> 
> These are the facts, take of it what you will.


A block with a jet plate is going to have a preferred inlet and outlet, but I fail to see how there's a difference in the threading on the GPU and backplate sides of a full cover GPU block.

You linked to some threads that are 15 years old to prove these claims. Designs have changed since the early days, especially for GPUs.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> A block with a jet plate is going to have a preferred inlet and outlet, but I fail to see how there's a difference in the threading on the GPU and backplate sides of a full cover GPU block.
> 
> You linked to some threads that are 15 years old to prove these claims. Designs have changed since the early days, especially for GPUs.


Designs have indeed changed but the principles have not. e.g. Laminar vs Turbulent flow or reasons why the jetplate exists. They simply became more optimised but people on the whole have forgotten why it is the way it is.

As for the threads, I didn't believe there is a difference either, until I opened up my EK block terminal and actually had a look inside. For some reason, there is a difference in thread thickness, I have no idea why. Anyway this is easy to check, I don't need to justify myself.

The only jetplate waterblock I know of that is truly reversible is the EK Aluminium block. Because they offset the fins at 45 degrees instead of perpendicular to the jet plate, you get a decent measure of turbulence from reversing the flow direction.


----------



## war4peace

We were talking about GPU waterblocks, not CPU waterblocks.
I agree with you on the CPU waterblocks, they're designed in such a way that they work better with the recommended flow direction. But GPU waterblocks are designed differently.
About laminare versus turbulent flow, sorry to say but that was valid a long time ago when pumps were limp in terms of performance. Achieve 0.5 gpm or higher and you get turbulent flow even in radiators, let alone water blocks.


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Do these facts have a reference? Are they documented somewhere?


If you go to Gigabyte waterforce site, it has a video shows the water flow direction and why. I think other designs are similar. Most CPU block has the same concept.


----------



## war4peace

Oh Geez...
The original question was about the *GPU* Waterblock.
Let me repeat...

*GPU Waterblock!*

Not CPU! GPU!


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> We were talking about GPU waterblocks, not CPU waterblocks.
> I agree with you on the CPU waterblocks, they're designed in such a way that they work better with the recommended flow direction. But GPU waterblocks are designed differently.
> About laminare versus turbulent flow, sorry to say but that was valid a long time ago when pumps were limp in terms of performance. Achieve 0.5 gpm or higher and you get turbulent flow even in radiators, let alone water blocks.


A waterblock is a waterblock that cools a rectangular asic, there is no difference as far as I know. The principles of optimal operation between them are the same. And for your information, people back then used to use much more _powerful_ pumps than what we use now. Like re-purposed Aquarium pumps or even the monstrous Iwaki style pumps.

It was optimised sometime since that the excessive pumping power was unnecessary heatdump with minimal performance gains which is why we have the pumps we use now.

Look at the reversible waterblock designs like Koolance. It has to compensate for the lack of jetplate with thinner, more numerous and deeper fins which ends up in a design that has slightly higher restriction.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> A waterblock is a waterblock that cools a rectangular asic, there is no difference as far as I know.


1. Cooled surface size;
2. Dissipated power density per surface area;
3. Different flow design (straight for CPUs, split parallel for GPUs).

Big differences.

You're right about the gardening variety pumps being used back in the day, but then the waterblocks were also primitively designed - no longer applicable to today.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Since everyone's gonna tell you there is no difference, I will tell you there is a difference but it's up to you to decide how much it means to you.
> 
> The jetplate design means that if you use the PCIe Bracket side port as the inlet, you are getting optimal thermal transfer between the core fins and the water due to the transition of water from Laminar flow (efficient for bulk transfer but inefficient for interface transfer) to Turbulent flow. This means a temperature difference of anywhere between 2C-5C depending on your flow rate.
> 
> If you were to invert the ports, then you lose this optimized turbulent flow effect and you will only get a partial turbulence within the transfer fins.
> 
> There is also a difference between the backplate side of the ports and the GPU side. The backplate side of the ports have thinner thread area than the GPU side meaning you gotta double check every fitting. If your fitting is standard length, you may find that there is some unnecessary flow restriction if you use the backplate side ports thus reducing your overall loop performance (though probably not noticeable). This can be mitigated by using an EK extender (which uses thin threads).
> 
> These are the facts, take of it what you will.


The central inlet split flow design of new gen GPU blocks does imply that there should be a prefered flow direction just like CPU blocks but its less complicated than laminar vs turbulent flow. It simply is slightly more efficient at carrying heat away when the flow is split across the core vs a simpler cross flow design. For whatever reason though, as EK have said many times there is little difference with their GPU blocks and I have found that in simple testing.

Turbulent flow can't really be had in one direction and not the other for the same apperture and flow rate. Much is made of Laminar VS turbulent flow but the reality is that even at relatively low flow rates turbulence occurs. Even in the straight tubes of a radiator Hardware Labs have said that 0.5gpm is enough to eliminate laminar flow in their rads. In the much more complicated and narrow paths of CPU and GPU blocks its even more easily avoided.

The design of the EK GPU block terminals does indeed have a thin and thick side but even the thin side is designed to fit perfectly with standard 5mm thread fittings. The warnings about fittings causing restriction is something of a throwback to the days when people used g1/4 fittings not specifically designed for water cooling gear (air fittings etc) that often had long threads. All current water cooling purpose designed fittings work just fine without issue.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Laser etched on


Yeah I've tried acetone on the emblems, didn't touch it.

There is no way I have found to remove the emblem without ruining the fitting


----------



## Ceadderman

Exactly. Although if you're using their black fittings you could simply black out the logo with a sharpie.









I didn't realize that BP logos were laser etched though. Makes sense.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> A waterblock is a waterblock that cools a rectangular asic, there is no difference as far as I know.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Cooled surface size;
> 2. Dissipated power density per surface area;
> 3. Different flow design (straight for CPUs, split parallel for GPUs).
> 
> Big differences.
> 
> You're right about the gardening variety pumps being used back in the day, but then the waterblocks were also primitively designed - no longer applicable to today.
Click to expand...

sorry but he is correct, you are not. he never said you *couldnt* run them backwards, he said you would loose _some_ performance which is true regardless of what the instructions say. for that particular block ....


----------



## war4peace

Quick, go tell EK that their manual is wrong! Because it says: "You can use any opening as an inlet/outlet port."
Look, if there's a performance loss it's negligible and falls within the measurement error margin. Now, I know nitpicking is a big thing around here, but let's get real and start living in the real world where arguing about 1 degree Celsius difference in synthetic benchmarks is ridiculous.
Frankly I'm tired of academic discussions confusing people into thinking "if I reverse flow it would negatively affect performance". No, it won't, not to a measurable REAL LIFE effect in a REAL LIFE scenario.


----------



## s3k4t0r

Hi
i have mounted and put in to my loop my ekwb 980 gtx ti wf3 i have done all like in manual together with back plate
but i got new problems as the chip by self is running in temps around 45c my back plate is hot that i cant hold my hand longer then 3-5 sec
next problem is coil whine its huge maybe i have it in past but when fans kick in i did not hear it now its just pain in ass
but the biggest problem is i got now random drop of frames im playing on 144hz monitor in bf1 got 140-145 fps but randomly got drops to 120 or below for lest then 1 sec
after over 30 min game play its got drops to 60 fps some times
did not have this in past with original cooling
now im afraid of playing just in case card will die
any advice?


----------



## whitrzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Quick, go tell EK that their manual is wrong! Because it says: "You can use any opening as an inlet/outlet port."
> Look, if there's a performance loss it's negligible and falls within the measurement error margin. Now, I know nitpicking is a big thing around here, but let's get real and start living in the real world where arguing about 1 degree Celsius difference in synthetic benchmarks is ridiculous.
> Frankly I'm tired of academic discussions confusing people into thinking "if I reverse flow it would negatively affect performance". No, it won't, not to a measurable REAL LIFE effect in a REAL LIFE scenario.


We are talking about the same company that switched from nice nickle plated plugs to plastic **** without telling anyone or updating the descriptions until people complained...

The newer GPU blocks have jet plates in them for a reason, witch makes them directional. Weather its to make them work better or look better is still up in the air.

People still pump hot air through rads because it's a 'common' setup, and that's what the popular dude said to do. I generally ignore anyone with >10posts a day that's been a member for years. They spend more time arguing issues than actually testing and building things.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitrzac*
> 
> We are talking about the same company that switched from nice nickle plated plugs to plastic **** without telling anyone or updating the descriptions until people complained...
> 
> The newer GPU blocks have jet plates in them for a reason, witch makes them directional. Weather its to make them work better or look better is still up in the air.
> 
> People still pump hot air through rads because it's a 'common' setup, and that's what the popular dude said to do. I generally ignore anyone with >10posts a day that's been a member for years. They spend more time arguing issues than actually testing and building things.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Quick, go tell EK that their manual is wrong! Because it says: "You can use any opening as an inlet/outlet port."
> Look, if there's a performance loss it's negligible and falls within the measurement error margin. Now, I know nitpicking is a big thing around here, but let's get real and start living in the real world where arguing about 1 degree Celsius difference in synthetic benchmarks is ridiculous.
> Frankly I'm tired of academic discussions confusing people into thinking "if I reverse flow it would negatively affect performance". No, it won't, not to a measurable REAL LIFE effect in a REAL LIFE scenario.


That is exactly the crux of the issue though. It is one thing to tell someone exactly what the academic difference is (no matter how small to the best detail we can) and another to dictate to them what they want because (to us) 1C doesn't matter anyway.

1-2C can matter to some people, who are we to judge?
I mean, I spend my days buying, modding and polishing my IHS to eke out an extra 1C from my CPU cooling. But how would I feel if everyone told me there is no difference and I'm wasting my time because 1C is meaningless instead of telling me exactly what the scientific/mathematical impact of my actions are?

For gods sake this is Overclock.net, not casualgoodenough.net. People come here for exotic in-depth information they cannot usually get elsewhere like r/buildapc.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Quick, go tell EK that their manual is wrong! Because it says: "You can use any opening as an inlet/outlet port."
> Look, if there's a performance loss it's negligible and falls within the measurement error margin. Now, I know nitpicking is a big thing around here, but let's get real and start living in the real world where arguing about 1 degree Celsius difference in synthetic benchmarks is ridiculous.
> Frankly I'm tired of academic discussions confusing people into thinking "if I reverse flow it would negatively affect performance". No, it won't, not to a measurable REAL LIFE effect in a REAL LIFE scenario.


real life sensors dont bed water cooling, why are you here? (As described above why are you to say it does not matter, that 1c to me means alot) you are here to get more out of your equip. Even akira iirc said it will slightly affect temps but not by much. Just because you don't care does not mean he doesn't. Further more in some situations 1 c is the difference between stability and instability. Even in real life just gaming, esp with gpus i notice they very much care about temps.

If you think ek, or anyone can not have mistakes in the manuals think again, even in air plane manuals they can. But it is unlikely, due to life or death. They go through them with a fine tooth comb, over and over and over.... how many times did you think the ek manual was? Most of it, is generic copy and paste.

Further more I a n sick of people like you telling people like me what's important. Just give me the information, and let me decide. I could want to cool cores first, vrm first, or memory first, and just want flow reversed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s3k4t0r*
> 
> Hi
> i have mounted and put in to my loop my ekwb 980 gtx ti wf3 i have done all like in manual together with back plate
> but i got new problems as the chip by self is running in temps around 45c my back plate is hot that i cant hold my hand longer then 3-5 sec
> next problem is coil whine its huge maybe i have it in past but when fans kick in i did not hear it now its just pain in ass
> but the biggest problem is i got now random drop of frames im playing on 144hz monitor in bf1 got 140-145 fps but randomly got drops to 120 or below for lest then 1 sec
> after over 30 min game play its got drops to 60 fps some times
> did not have this in past with original cooling
> now im afraid of playing just in case card will die
> any advice?


I would take it apart ( backplate only )the look, verify nothing could be touching causing a minor short ( leads to long ect) nothing on tee back of the pcb should get that hot, that I am aware of


----------



## war4peace

There is no such thing as 1 degree difference between stable and unstable, stop spreading this nonsense around.


----------



## Mega Man

@sugarhell

Most amd cards, if the vrms hit to hot what happens?, speaking of the 290s and 7970s iirc it was always in the 60s but varried slightly from card to card did it not. And that 1 deg, made the difference did it not?

I know from personal experiance when pushing hard, it does on cpus, but outs ok, maybe you have not ever pushed your system that hard... that's ok, and not an insult, but others do.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> There is no such thing as 1 degree difference between stable and unstable, stop spreading this nonsense around.


Go to hwbot and tell them that 1C isn't important and see what kind of response you get lol.

Also that 1C may not mean much alone, but what if through optimisation you find multiple areas of improvement that yield 1C each? that 1C can cumulatively baloon to a meaningful 5C or 10C depending on how many areas you can optimise.

This is how engineering works, little efficiencies alone, but lots of them add up to an iteration.


----------



## war4peace

I'm close friends to people who took home gold medals at overclocking world cup competitions before your account was created here... I might know a thing or two about that... And with that being said I stop arguing - there's no point. Let's agree we disagree.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I'm close friends to people who took home gold medals at overclocking world cup competitions before your account was created here... I might know a thing or two about that... And with that being said I stop arguing - there's no point. Let's agree we disagree.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you seriously just pull a "My dad can beat your dad"?


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> There is no such thing as 1 degree difference between stable and unstable, stop spreading this nonsense around.


Oh my, but there is my friend. When you bench let's say, GPU-Pi for CPU. Bench takes 8 minutes approx to complete. At fullpot -192~ at 1.85vcore you slowly warm up to -180 and it might be still stable at -181 but crash at -180. This ofcourse doesn't take in effect your Tdelta pot/IHS/Die. But you get the idea.

In general consensus, on watercooling I don't see it happening much. But on LN2. Yessir, 1c can make the difference between a score and a freeze.


----------



## becks

Can you all perhaps Stop..
Going deeper down the rabbit hole on the subject is like arguing on what color you prefer.

The time it took to fill the last pages with nonsense (If so concerned about temp difference) one would have just tested it for himself... and share its findings with the rest.

If a manufacturer (Doesn't matter if EK or other ) say you can use any port combination for In and Out ...you should do that.
Its not like they cut the GPU blocks in someone back garage... the amount of R&D going in each part going on market is Massively under-estimated!

Whenever I had a part which clearly said which one is which if I installed them wrong I saw a diff in temp of up to 10 C..
Whenever a manufacturer said don't bother...it did not matter!


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Can you all perhaps Stop..
> Going deeper down the rabbit hole on the subject is like arguing on what color you prefer.
> 
> The time it took to fill the last pages with nonsense (If so concerned about temp difference) one would have just tested it for himself... and share its findings with the rest.
> 
> If a manufacturer (Doesn't matter if EK or other ) say you can use any port combination for In and Out ...you should do that.
> Its not like they cut the GPU blocks in someone back garage... the amount of R&D going in each part going on market is Massively under-estimated!
> 
> Whenever I had a part which clearly said which one is which if I installed them wrong I saw a diff in temp of up to 10 C..
> Whenever a manufacturer said don't bother...it did not matter!


Common sense? It's a breath of fresh air and there's often nothing like it


----------



## Radnad

What is going on??

https://www.techpowerup.com/238828/ek-water-blocks-parts-ways-with-top-management


----------



## KCDC

Company re-structure. The founders are taking the reigns again it seems. Didn't like direction those fired were taking it, or lack thereof. Recently happened to the company I work at, I can't tell the difference yet, hah!


----------



## Recipe7

Hope this does not have an effect on us consumers.


----------



## KCDC

This wasn't something like layoffs, that's not good when a company does that... that's the scary "re-structure"

This is meant to be more of a positive step away from their current direction. Sadly, that meant getting rid of the problem, which were high ranking employees. It's a good sign that they took appropriate action before it got worse to the point of lay-offs. The fact that the founders are coming back into control those key roles is also a good sign. They're keeping key employees that have been there since the beginning, also a good sign. It will take time, but I think they want to get back to better innovation. I think this will turn out to be a great thing and we will see some cool, different products with these new partners they spoke of. I remain hopeful of this, at least.


----------



## Bartdude

Found this in another forum, it was a reply from an EK rep to an inquiry about flow direction on EK full cover GPU blocks...

"thank you for contacting us.

Recommended inlet port is the left port. Using a different flow direction is also ok, it will result in a bit lower VRM temperatures and a bit higher GPU temperature (less than 1°C difference).


----------



## shiokarai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> What is going on??
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/238828/ek-water-blocks-parts-ways-with-top-management


Does it mean we can finally get a new CPU/GPU blocks design?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiokarai*
> 
> Does it mean we can finally get a new CPU/GPU blocks design?


The word is that they are fixing threadripper blocks, so yes.


----------



## Aenra

A bit of a general question (albeit solely EK-related). This whole OC->related cooling->parts erm, hobby, is recent for me. Been reading like crazy for months now, but i'm still at a point where i mostly know what i do not know, if you get my point ^^

This being the case, i was thinking of going the "everything from EKWB" route to play it safe, least so far as compatibility may be concerned.. spare me any potential trouble.

So to the question; excluding specifics (for example their current TR4 block) which do not constitute the rule so let's keep them out, is there anything, rads, pumps, combos, tubing, fans (planning for furious vardars+ push-pull) anything that you'd advise me to look elsewhere for?

I read a lot about flaking, i read a lot about current quality decrease, but i) have zero way to verify any of it, ii) often enough the style and tone of the post at hand is such that makes feel as if hyperbole is in effect. Any opinions welcome 

Am not into RGB/circus lights, am not into hard tubing, am not into looks or bling. Just function, ie lowest possible delta. I won't give rig specifics, firstly because i do not have them yet, secondly because if it gets down to 'good enough as long as..', then i guess you've already answered me 

Would appreciate any pointers.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> A bit of a general question (albeit solely EK-related). This whole OC->related cooling->parts erm, hobby, is recent for me. Been reading like crazy for months now, but i'm still at a point where i mostly know what i do _not_ know, if you get my point ^^
> This being the case, i was thinking of going the "everything from EKWB" route to play it safe, least so far as compatibility may be concerned.. spare me any potential trouble.
> 
> So to the question; excluding specifics (for example their current TR4 block) which do not constitute the rule so let's keep them out, is there _anything_, rads, pumps, combos, tubing, fans (planning for furious vardars+ push-pull) _anything_ that you'd advise me to look elsewhere for?
> I read a lot about flaking, i read a lot about current quality decrease, but i) have zero way to verify any of it, ii) often enough the style and tone of the post at hand is such that makes feel as if hyperbole is in effect. Any opinions welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am not into RGB/circus lights, am not into hard tubing, am not into looks or bling. Just function, ie lowest possible delta. I won't give rig specifics, firstly because i do not have them yet, secondly because if it gets down to 'good enough as long as..', then i guess you've already answered me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would appreciate any pointers.


Good question.
I've done a few loops, mainly with EK stuff.
By far the best most functional loop was completely EK and used the black tube, which makes super sharp bends without problem, is soft enough to make assembly easy and looks quite good with the chrome.
One thing I would change out is to go for the corsair mag lev fans. They're way better than the vardars.
If you go 420 instead of 360, go for Phanteks. The 360 rad from EK is a bit average, but the 420 rad is brilliant.
ps: I have an entire cupboard full of fans and rads lol.

Here's a good reason to stick to the one manufacturer:

Notice the hairline cracks that appeared after I changed the fittings from EK to Monsoon.
I think they've penetrated too far in and pulled the acrylic out a bit, which is quite thin there.
No leaks but now I have to monitor it...
Of course this could be a flaw with the new X299 monoblocks.
If possible keep away from the acrylic bits.

Oh, edit: welcome to the obsession I mean hobby


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> Here's a good reason to stick to the one manufacturer:
> 
> Notice the hairline cracks that appeared after I changed the fittings from EK to Monsoon.
> I think they've penetrated too far in and pulled the acrylic out a bit, which is quite thin there.
> No leaks but now I have to monitor it...
> Of course this could be a flaw with the new X299 monoblocks.
> If possible keep away from the acrylic bits.


Definitely interesting!


----------



## Ceadderman

I don't have a problem with cracking in my old HF Supreme Classy top. From the looks of it, it seems that the collar is what caused the cracking in that MonoBlock. I cannot say for certain however since even if you pulled the collar off the cracks would extend under the base due to the nature of the acrylic top.









But my Classy top has even had monsoon economy fittings(barbed) on it and it looks pristine to this day. I will suggest that the cracking may have occurred when tightening the collar past snug. Meaning there were no more threads to be covered and the base continued to snug, causing the offensive cracks.









~Ceadder


----------



## surfinchina

Yeah it's a pain.
When I put the fittings in I tightened them by hand and then about 1/4 turn with the supplied tightening tool, so it's not over tight. The collar is still off the monoblock enough to get my fingernail in between them.
All I can think of is that the monoblock is defective or that the acrylic is thin there and the fitting pushed against the diffuser and pulled the thread, which is sort of saying the monoblock is either defective or badly designed. Oh, just thought, maybe when I was tightening the collar, which I did pretty tight, it turned the thread...
My primochill vue is turning up later today so I'll run the cleaning stuff through the loop then pull it apart to find out what's going on.

Which [email protected]$#s me off because I ran soft tubing in this rig for 6 months, finally sorted out my system and got everything nice, delidded, pulled apart all of my watercooling bits and cleaned them, and only went to hard tubes when I was pretty sure I wouldn't have to pull it apart again. haha.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't have a problem with cracking in my old HF Supreme Classy top. From the looks of it, it seems that the collar is what caused the cracking in that MonoBlock. I cannot say for certain however since even if you pulled the collar off the cracks would extend under the base due to the nature of the acrylic top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But my Classy top has even had monsoon economy fittings(barbed) on it and it looks pristine to this day. I will suggest that the cracking may have occurred when tightening the collar past snug. Meaning there were no more threads to be covered and the base continued to snug, causing the offensive cracks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


edit:
So here's a question for everyone.
I've got an evo supremacy I used before I got the monoblock.

Would you play safe and have hotter VRMs with the Evo Supremacy (it's X299) or assume that it's not a structural problem and those tiny hairline cracks aren't going to leak one day - keep the monoblock.
Or buy another monoblock - which needs to be imported.


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> A bit of a general question (albeit solely EK-related). This whole OC->related cooling->parts erm, hobby, is recent for me. Been reading like crazy for months now, but i'm still at a point where i mostly know what i do _not_ know, if you get my point ^^
> This being the case, i was thinking of going the "everything from EKWB" route to play it safe, least so far as compatibility may be concerned.. spare me any potential trouble.
> 
> So to the question; excluding specifics (for example their current TR4 block) which do not constitute the rule so let's keep them out, is there _anything_, rads, pumps, combos, tubing, fans (planning for furious vardars+ push-pull) _anything_ that you'd advise me to look elsewhere for?
> I read a lot about flaking, i read a lot about current quality decrease, but i) have zero way to verify any of it, ii) often enough the style and tone of the post at hand is such that makes feel as if hyperbole is in effect. Any opinions welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am not into RGB/circus lights, am not into hard tubing, am not into looks or bling. Just function, ie lowest possible delta. I won't give rig specifics, firstly because i do not have them yet, secondly because if it gets down to 'good enough as long as..', then i guess you've already answered me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would appreciate any pointers.


Hi. I am new to EK and don't have much practical experience to share yet. But I share a lot of thoughts with you, like function over the look, etc.

One thing I do want to share is my purchase experience. I tried to "assemble" my own kit and compare with EK-kit, and found out the EK-Kit is a better deal even they don't give you exactly what you need, (e.g. no drain port or flushing consideration), but it is a lot cheaper to go with a kit, then add what you need to add/replace. I went for the P Kit, mainly because I prefer the D5 pump over the (X kit ) DDC. I upgrade to larger res with multi-port top.

Interested to see others' comment about the black tubing. I think I will stay with the out-of-box clear tubing for now, so I can see if there is any dirt in the loop. I also don't expect sharp turns in my loop. My first loop will be short and clean as possible: pump -> PE360 rad -> CPU -> GPU -> top of res with rotary connector (so it can be disconnected for flushing). T spliter at the pump out to add the drain port (also the lowest point of the loop).

There are lots of other consideration for airflow to cool the rest of components (VRM, Memory, M2, etc.), and also a vertical GPU mount for better air cooling, ends up with better look accidentally


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> So to the question; excluding specifics (for example their current TR4 block) which do not constitute the rule so let's keep them out, is there _anything_, rads, pumps, combos, tubing, fans (planning for furious vardars+ push-pull) _anything_ that you'd advise me to look elsewhere for?
> I read a lot about flaking, i read a lot about current quality decrease, but i) have zero way to verify any of it, ii) often enough the style and tone of the post at hand is such that makes feel as if hyperbole is in effect. Any opinions welcome


I like EK's products.

Their SE rads are bad (the worst of the slims) -- at least the ones with 120mm fans. They just announced the new ones with 140mm fans so we don't know about them yet. If you want slim (30mm thick) rads, I recommend Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis GTS or Magicool G2 Slim or PrimoChill Eximo SX.
Their PE 120mm fan rads are average.
Their XE 120mm fan rads are awesome.
**All info based on Extreme Rigs' Radiator Review Roundup as well as ThermalBench reviews. They do very thorough testing. Note that Extreme Rigs separates out the slim rads into their own category and compares them only to each other -- Comparison of slim rads (see graphs starting about 1/3 of the way down the page)

In my current build (see my sig rig) I use all EK stuff, except for tubing and fans. I highly recommend PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT for soft tubing, and have used it in my last four builds (I build new every 1-2 years). I've heard bad things about EK's soft tubing and discoloration.

My next build is likely going to have a Bitspower or EK monoblock (haven't decided on CPU yet), Bitspower fittings (unlike others, I actually like their logos on everything), EK XE or Hardware Labs Nemesis GTX rads depending on which ones fit (haven't decided on a case yet), EK D5 Pump/Res combo, Corsair ML120/ML140 fans, PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing, and PrimoChill VUE coolant.

The only product from EK that I definitely wouldn't use is their TR4 block/monoblock due to poor performance compared to the competition. I've used their AM4 and Intel blocks/monoblocks with no performance issues.

Edit: And the reason why I'm trying to go with other companies for cooling parts this time is I want to get away from my comfort zone for most of the stuff with this build. I'm likely going with MSI for MB and GPU as well, where normally I do Asus MB and EVGA GPU. We'll see how it ends up...


----------



## Jyve

The se rads aren't BAD. They're just the worst performing rads in the class. They do a fine job and IMO they look good. Someone wants an all ek setup and can only fit a slim 240 or 360 rad then the se is fine. It'll cool your gear just fine. No not as good as something like a hardware labs, but it'll be ok.

Bad denotes it does a bad job. It doesn't. Just not the best.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> The se rads aren't BAD. They're just the worst performing rads in the class. They do a fine job and IMO they look good. Someone wants an all ek setup and can only fit a slim 240 or 360 rad then the se is fine. It'll cool your gear just fine. No not as good as something like a hardware labs, but it'll be ok.
> 
> Bad denotes it does a bad job. It doesn't. Just not the best.


SE rads are awful. My SE does nothing for my cooling performance.


----------



## becks

First the "what port to use" now this ....

You guys are awful... just start a thread in Rants & Raves and go there...

SE's are GREAT for their class and for their specific purpose..

You don't use SE's when you have room for XE's...
I had to cut my Fans corners to fit them over RAM that's how tight they are in my small Define S Nano..

My SE is perfect in keeping my highly OC'ed 7700k 5.2 @ 1.455 and GTX 1080ti @1.1v and I do regularly submit scores to HWBOT competitions
The thing that puzzles people is that SE's have the *highest FPI* (Fin per inch) of its class and you need "proper" Fans to be able to pull air trough them

And you can have a 240 Rad cooling better than a 380 because cooling isn't all about rads and only rads...every single part of the water cooling system needs to be properly used for the given situation...
Pump...Blocks...Fans...no of fittings (90 adapters especially) all add up to a great or awful efficiency..


----------



## MNMadman

Oh I'm sorry for using offensive words like "bad" for the worst performer in its class.

I didn't do any ranting. I made a statement that is true. EK SE rads do cool things ... just not as well as the other slim rads.

If you must use a slim rad, and it must be EK ... great, use them. If either one of those is negotiable, use something else.

As I said in my post, I like EK stuff. I have used them for most of the liquid cooling equipment in the last four builds I've done (including my sig rig). But there is certain EK stuff I won't use and won't recommend to anyone else. Their TR4 block/monoblock sucks -- it cools, just not as well as the other TR4 blocks/monoblocks do. Why does nobody care what I said about those? Apparently their blocks are okay to say bad things about, but not their rads? Whatever...


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> ...You don't use SE's when you have room for XE's...


Agreed! That is the point EK makes the SE, and other models. In fact, EK site discuss Thick vs. Large rads. One thing seems to me that, if you don't have room for push/pull, XE may not be a good choice because you have to turn the fan to fairly high even at normal load, just for the air to blow through the rad. Otherwise, the top part won't cool enough. It is definitely not "thicker the better". Quality-Price wise, I think EK is the kind I prefer.

With that said, I do appreciate other people's rants as well. They bring up factors to consider. In the end, you make your own decision/judgement.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*


I can't comment on something I don't own..
Reviews are ...mehh, more informative than precise
Not even reviewers can align their results to be the same in a "testing" environment...

Off topic: Here's a pic of me actually testing every single fan "recommended" to me...at the end I returned all and was highly disappointed with some very "recommended" ones..Ended up buying what worked BEST for me


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## GunfighterAK

The HWLabs GTS rads put the EK SE rads to shame! They really need to have a second look at them. Sure you can make them "work" by running the fans at hurricane speeds.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*
> 
> The HWLabs GTS rads put the EK SE rads to shame! They really need to have a second look at them. Sure you can make them "work" by running the fans at hurricane speeds.


Using cheapo fans on both HWLabs GTS and Se will prove you'r right...

Using a Noctua ippp 3000 fan at 800 rpm on both will show I'm right..

Blame the rad and let's just cheap on everything else will definitely be the right way to do stuff









EDIT: .. the RAD you all praise (Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis GTS 280...the 240 is called GT) has only 16 FPI while EK has 22, it also has approx 14-15% more surface. you do the math.


----------



## GunfighterAK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Using cheapo fans on both HWLabs GTS and Se will prove you'r right...
> 
> Using a Noctua ippp 3000 fan at 800 rpm on both will show I'm right..
> 
> Blame the rad and let's just cheap on everything else will definitely be the right way to do stuff


I'm just relaying what the numerous forum posters have reported after using the EK SE and switching to HWL. Having a 3000RPM fan kind of kills one of the reasons to have a watercooled system.

You know whats a joke? "Ready to use" statement on EK radiators. My EK CE 420 needed more than 5 flushes to clean out gunk, while the HWL GTS 360 only needs two flushes and didn't have any "dumb" statements.


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> .. used the black tube, which makes super sharp bends without problem, is soft enough to make assembly easy ..
> .. go for the corsair mag lev fans. They're way better than the vardars ..
> 
> Oh, edit: welcome to the obsession I mean hobby


For starters, thank you 

If you don't mind a follow up?

- I was under the impression that the 'black' tubing was significantly harder to bend, was it not? Am assuming you meant this one, right?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-15-9-9-5mm-3m-retail

- Have used maglevs for case/overall cooling, never for rads. What makes you value them higher than the furious vardars? Emphasis on furious, rather than any of the 'slower' models.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svx94*
> 
> .. it is a lot cheaper to go with a kit, then add what you need to add/replace ..


Thank you for replying, but not going after kits. One, too much aluminum for my liking, two, incompatibile with most non-kit oriented parts, three, for what i'm going for, they're just not capable of getting the job done.

Again though, i appreciate your responding.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> .. I've heard bad things about EK's soft tubing and discoloration ..
> 
> .. Corsair ML120/ML140 fans ..


Thanks 

- I'm not planning on going the transparent tubing route at all, opting for black; any thoughts or experience with it that you'd like to share? If you need me to be specific, i've linked it here, look upwards, same post.

- As with the poster above you, why the Maglev preference?

(if it helps, up to now i've been using exclusively the industrial grade SP Noctua fans [3000rpm PPC black ones]. Read a lot about scaling though, realized what it meant considering i never run a fan at 100%, so decided to go with furious vardars for the next one; hence my enquiring).

Edit: forgot to mention, but gave rep to everyone; my thanks once more to y'all


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*


See my last EDIT..

If we go into "ready to use" territory..
Yes I agree with you...every EK product needs thoroughly flushing and cleaning..and the paint is kinda flimsy and flakes easily.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> A bit of a general question (albeit solely EK-related). This whole OC->related cooling->parts erm, hobby, is recent for me. Been reading like crazy for months now, but i'm still at a point where i mostly know what i do _not_ know, if you get my point ^^
> This being the case, i was thinking of going the "everything from EKWB" route to play it safe, least so far as compatibility may be concerned.. spare me any potential trouble.
> 
> So to the question; excluding specifics (for example their current TR4 block) which do not constitute the rule so let's keep them out, is there _anything_, rads, pumps, combos, tubing, fans (planning for furious vardars+ push-pull) _anything_ that you'd advise me to look elsewhere for?
> I read a lot about flaking, i read a lot about current quality decrease, but i) have zero way to verify any of it, ii) often enough the style and tone of the post at hand is such that makes feel as if hyperbole is in effect. Any opinions welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am not into RGB/circus lights, am not into hard tubing, am not into looks or bling. Just function, ie lowest possible delta. I won't give rig specifics, firstly because i do not have them yet, secondly because if it gets down to 'good enough as long as..', then i guess you've already answered me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would appreciate any pointers.


Given that you're looking for soft tubing and you're not looking at TR4, you could do an all EK loop and get good performance with all EK parts. In fact their zmt tubing is probably some of the best tubing on the market as far as quality goes if you're cool with black.

The only thing here is the SE rads. Hardware labs makes some much nicer slim rads. For thicker rads the XE rads are pretty good.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Using cheapo fans on both HWLabs GTS and Se will prove you'r right...
> 
> Using a Noctua ippp 3000 fan at 800 rpm on both will show I'm right..
> 
> Blame the rad and let's just cheap on everything else will definitely be the right way to do stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: .. the RAD you all praise (Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis GTS 280...the 240 is called GT) has only 16 FPI while EK has 22, it also has approx 14-15% more surface. you do the math.


Hi there

Here is review not 240mm radiators but 360mm of HWLabs GTS360 and SE360

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/hardwarelabs-nemesis-360-gts-radiator-review/

Regarding running cheap fans on radiator,this I wouldn't recommend or do,but there are lots of good fans for money which performs good on radiators

I have went via few fans and radiators on my builds which I build for myself and for my friends

Few months back I built for my friend loop where we are went via XSPC and EK radiators and at the end I went on his build with 2*GTS360 as well and for fans we are used Arctic F12 PWM fans

I have run as well EK Vardar fans which I hated as these fans have strange whine noise at low RPM, then I went with Phanteks PH-F120MP fans which are my favourite fans but currently testing on my loop Corsair ML120 fans as well

I currently running 3*GTS360 and 1*XE360 radiator, tried few fans on both radiators like EK Vardar F3 1850RPM or Phanteks PH-F120MP and Corsair ML120 and on these radiators I prefer to use Phanteks PH-F120MP fans but on EK XE360 there seems best fans are ML120

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> .. The only thing here is the SE rads. Hardware labs makes some much nicer slim rads ..


Wasn't planning on using slim rads anyway; i don't, well.. won't have clearance issues, so personally see no reason to add higher restriction for lesser cooling.

Definitely the 60mm thick ones, push-pull.

And thanks for replying.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*


Hi Jura,

I think this discussion is getting away from its scope the more we post about it.

I had HWLabs and I have SE and XE..
If you go back a few posts I said I can only comment on what I own or owned. On the Phanteks PH-F120MP matter.. also couple of posts back you will see some pictures I posted with couple of fans in there (can't find the original ones at the moment but there were 14 fans) the sample I got was clearly noisier and weaker at 800 RPM than my Noctua at 680 RPM (ye..there is a picture there as well from aquasuite showing it run even lower..) the Phantec fan was unable to keep RPM as low as Noctua without stooping... at 600 RPM they where equaly noisy with Noctua clearly doing a better cooling job and at max...what can I say... Noctua has 3000 RPM.. So given this data why would I go with Phanteks over Noctua ?..
If you go by the argument that Phantek at 1800 RPM is more silent than Noctua at same speed I will contradict and say their equally noisy the only difference is in tone of the noise and can I mention that Noctua at 1000-1200 RPM (Nearly dead Silent) can cool equal or even slightly better than Phantek at 1800 RPM ?
Is price the problem than ? Today Phantek is £11 and Noctua £25. They have SSO2 bearing a fibre-glass reinforced polyamide body...a MTTF >150.000 h, water & dust resistant IP52 and a 6 year warranty with EXCELLENT customer support. Is the extra £14 really not worth for all of this ?

Find me 2 online reviewers who got their number the same assuming they all use their "test" environment and pretty identical testing methodologies than I will start believing reviewers.
They can't replicate their findings even between them and there are mixed reviews for every single hardware piece out there.

I do my own testing and I comment only on things I own or owned as I am interested in only "real life" scenarios and not some "testing" ideal environment.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> For starters, thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't mind a follow up?
> 
> - I was under the impression that the 'black' tubing was significantly harder to bend, was it not? Am assuming you meant this one, right?
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-15-9-9-5mm-3m-retail
> 
> - Have used maglevs for case/overall cooling, never for rads. What makes you value them higher than the furious vardars? Emphasis on furious, rather than any of the 'slower' models.
> 
> Edit: forgot to mention, but gave rep to everyone; my thanks once more to y'all


Thanks for the rep









The black tubing is a lot softer. It fits over the barbs nicely and bends really tight, but will never crimp and restrict the flow. It didn't bleed into the coolant and imo it looks great. I had it in a sort of steam punk build in an Inwin 901.
The Vardars (I had the ER) were a bit noisy and had a bad harmonic. Also, one out of the four I had sounded worse which made me not trust the quality.
After that I got the Noctua focused flows which are great for cooling and quiet, then I got the Corsair mag levs which are super quiet but more loud than the Noctuas at full noise - it's an air rushing sound which the Noctua focused flow seem to make a bit quieter somehow . The Corsair look better in my current build though.
If you're after the best fans I guess Noctua is it.


----------



## Aenra

Regarding maglevs, i managed to find the graph i wanted. Could probably find a couple more from other review sites (that i trust) to back it up further, but for now just this one, as my memory is going down the crapper 



As seen here: http://thermalbench.com/2016/07/12/corsair-ml120-pro-120-mm-fan/3/

Pink is the furious vardar.

Red is my current Noctua (the PPC industrial turbo injection etc. etc.).

Green is the maglev.

Now assuming as exhibit A the above and as exhibit B the fact that despite its superior performance, the furious vardar is the cheapest of them all by far; again, why the maglev fan preference?

(and please don't tell me looks. As my sgt used to say, this ain't the beauty parlor ladies)


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Regarding maglevs, i managed to find the graph i wanted. Could probably find a couple more from other review sites (that i trust) to back it up further, but for now just this one, as my memory is going down the crapper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pink is the furious vardar.
> Red is my current Noctua (the PPC industrial turbo injection etc. etc.).
> Green is the maglev.
> 
> Now, assuming as exhibit A the above, and as exhibit B the fact that the furious vardar is the cheapest of them all and by far, again, why the maglev fan preference?
> (and please don't tell me looks. As my sgt used to say, this ain't the beauty parlor ladies)


Noise.
They're loud at full speed and the noise is less pleasant than the other fans mentioned. Sort of whiny.
I have no issues at all with their cooling performance.
If you want pure performance and don't care about noise you'd go for the Noctua industrials. It's like living next to an Airport, and they make a sort of mini tornado in the room, but the cooling is impressive.


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> Noise.
> They're loud at full speed and the noise is less pleasant than the other fans mentioned. Sort of whiny.
> I have no issues at all with their cooling performance.
> If you want pure performance and don't care about noise you'd go for the Noctua industrials. It's like living next to an Airport, and they make a sort of mini tornado in the room, but the cooling is impressive.


I have enough vardar fans to build a hovering city. They are good fans. They are cheap for high-quality fans. They look nice for simple fans. I would not be the least bit surprised if I bought more. They are relatively quiet, particularly given their performance, but I will say that I have 12 ML120's humming away beside me right now and the character of the sound at low speed in particular is more pleasant. What's more at any given speed the ML-120 make an "air" noise vs the vardar which have what I can only describe as a "rumble". You said "whiny", but what I hear is a relative low frequency component.

The improvement in "experience" of the 120's is more so than the 140's in my opinion, but its the same difference in character.

The RGB MLs are pretty ludicrously priced, but thankfully, I don't bother with them. ML120's in 2-packs are cheaper than vardar last I checked.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> Noise.
> They're loud at full speed and the noise is less pleasant than the other fans mentioned. Sort of whiny.
> I have no issues at all with their cooling performance.
> If you want pure performance and don't care about noise you'd go for the Noctua industrials. It's like living next to an Airport, and they make a sort of mini tornado in the room, but the cooling is impressive.


If tornadoes are okay, then nothing beats a good Delta fan IMO.


----------



## Aenra

O.K. guys, i think i get you now 

Was asking about performance, got some differing views that ended up being about factors that are to me (personally) secondary. Should perhaps have been clearer in my original question; either way, my thanks again for all the input.

Y'all think of anything further to add or contradict even? Let me know.

*just saw the last post, lol.. within limits ^^


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> I have enough vardar fans to build a hovering city. They are good fans. They are cheap for high-quality fans. They look nice for simple fans. I would not be the least bit surprised if I bought more. They are relatively quiet, particularly given their performance, but I will say that I have 12 ML120's humming away beside me right now and the character of the sound at low speed in particular is more pleasant. What's more at any given speed the ML-120 make an "air" noise vs the vardar which have what I can only describe as a "rumble". You said "whiny", but what I hear is a relative low frequency component.
> 
> The improvement in "experience" of the 120's is more so than the 140's in my opinion, but its the same difference in character.
> 
> The RGB MLs are pretty ludicrously priced, but thankfully, I don't bother with them. ML120's in 2-packs are cheaper than vardar last I checked.


Yes you're onto it.
When I had Vardars in my rig I was quite happy with them except when I stress tested my rig.

As an observation...
The Vardars could go faster than the other fans, and every fan gets noisy when it goes fast, so Vardars now have a rep for noise not just because of their engine noise, but because they're going faster.
In my opinion, the cooling benefit of running fans faster is a curve of diminishing return, for any normal 45mm ish or thinner rad anyway. If I do a stress test and leave my fans on about 850 (read the fastest I can get them and still be quiet), I get maybe 5deg higher CPU temps than when they're on full noise. Since my 24/7 clock maxes out at 65deg, another 5 to make it 70 is not an issue, so most fans are fine if you have enough rad space.


----------



## surfinchina

Got a letter from EK. They're selling me a new top for my monoblock for 20 bucks plus shipping








This is one reason I love buying their stuff.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> The se rads aren't BAD. They're just the worst performing rads in the class. They do a fine job and IMO they look good. Someone wants an all ek setup and can only fit a slim 240 or 360 rad then the se is fine. It'll cool your gear just fine. No not as good as something like a hardware labs, but it'll be ok.
> 
> Bad denotes it does a bad job. It doesn't. Just not the best.
> 
> 
> 
> SE rads are awful. My SE does nothing for my cooling performance.
Click to expand...

Dude, from the looks of things no radiator in the world would perform to your expectations in the setup that you posted. There are what, 2 or 3 vents in the top and a window blocking the airflow?!?









I think you need to consider what you're expecting of your cooling system and then consider possibly modding the case or getting another altogether.









Have you considered removing the window to see if your temps improve? That's what I would do, if that were my setup.









~Ceadder


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Dude, from the looks of things no radiator in the world would perform to your expectations in the setup that you posted. There are what, 2 or 3 vents in the top and a window blocking the airflow?!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you need to consider what you're expecting of your cooling system and then consider possibly modding the case or getting another altogether.


ROFLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Dude, from the looks of things no radiator in the world would perform to your expectations in the setup that you posted. There are what, 2 or 3 vents in the top and a window blocking the airflow?!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you need to consider what you're expecting of your cooling system and then consider possibly modding the case or getting another altogether.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ROFLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL
Click to expand...

Yeah um, not saying what I did to be mean. But c'mon a Radiator works with airflow. Starving it of the very thing it depends on to do its job is just pointless imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah um, not saying what I did to be mean. But c'mon a Radiator works with airflow. Starving it of the very thing it depends on to do its job is just pointless imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Think the did it as a joke, but if you see the other side of his evolv lol. Guy has like 6 rads in the thing.


----------



## DarthBaggins

This little guy just arrived for me this afternoon.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah um, not saying what I did to be mean. But c'mon a Radiator works with airflow. Starving it of the very thing it depends on to do its job is just pointless imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It was just an empty space and I had the radiator. If I remove all the panels and add fans to the SE360, my delta t goes below 5 C while pulling 600 watts at the wall.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> This little guy just arrived for me this afternoon.


I'm ham-handed so this happened.



Fortunately you can order these for $14.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> Got a letter from EK. They're selling me a new top for my monoblock for 20 bucks plus shipping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one reason I love buying their stuff.


I've done the same in the past. Before they ship, you should throw in a couple extra sets of o-rings.

Also, to help you reseat the main large o-ring, painters tape and a little DOW 33 o-ring lubricant helps a TON. Otherwise, you'll be getting frustrated really quick trying to fully seat it around all the bends.

This will last a lifetime, good for all o-rings, helps ensure no leaks as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YQK4SN0/


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> ...Also, to help you reseat the main large o-ring, painters tape and a little DOW 33 o-ring lubricant helps a TON. Otherwise, you'll be getting frustrated really quick trying to fully seat it around all the bends.
> 
> This will last a lifetime, good for all o-rings, helps ensure no leaks as well. ...


Do you suggest to use the DOW 33 on regular fittings as well?
Cheers!


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svx94*
> 
> Do you suggest to use the DOW 33 on regular fittings as well?
> Cheers!


For the monoblock, I'd clean them and use said lube on them... For fittings it's a bit tough if you don't pry them out first since you'll get the lube on the barbs... Just use it on orings that you can extract.

Clean the orings with soapy water.. Solvents or alcohol could cause them to expand... Also alcohol and acrylic is a big nono, no alcohol on anything that will not be cleaned properly before hitting acrylic.


----------



## GunfighterAK

how did you get chaeged only 14usd for the new cover? I have the same problem and EK charged me 20 euro for the exact same thing.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*
> 
> how did you get chaeged only 14usd for the new cover? I have the same problem and EK charged me 20 euro for the exact same thing.


I ordered from Performance PCs, a US retailer. And $14 is for a nickel EVO cover, not a plexi monoblock cover.


----------



## GunfighterAK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I ordered from Performance PCs, a US retailer. And $14 is for a nickel EVO cover, not a plexi monoblock cover.


Thats what i said. I have the same evo block and replaced the plexi twice but i just ordered a replacement directly from EK and it cost 20euro. Next time ill deal with ppc.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> I've done the same in the past. Before they ship, you should throw in a couple extra sets of o-rings.
> 
> Also, to help you reseat the main large o-ring, painters tape and a little DOW 33 o-ring lubricant helps a TON. Otherwise, you'll be getting frustrated really quick trying to fully seat it around all the bends.
> 
> This will last a lifetime, good for all o-rings, helps ensure no leaks as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YQK4SN0/


I just use silicone grease. Cheap as chips and works well.


----------



## Mega Man

dow corning molykote 111


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Finally ordered a EK mono block for prime x299 deluxe








ups delivery about December 1st


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I just use silicone grease. Cheap as chips and works well.


Hadn't even occurred to me to use anything else on silicon O-rings since that's "just what you do"TM in any other domain that involves O-rings.


----------



## Aenra

Enlighten the unitiated please; you do this for all o-rings? And why?


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Enlighten the unitiated please; you do this for all o-rings? And why?


To be honest, I haven't bothered for external fittings that are easy to get to - only those deep inside or large flat surfaces between two plates (particularly those with lots of bends in the o-ring channel).

Reasons for doing:
1. silicon grease is aqua-phobic - keeps water out of any little nook and cranny that might eventually work its way out (lever as a function of pressure) as a leak - also keeps the water and its contaminates away from the ring.
2. lubricates the ring and the channel to prevent binding that might eventually weaken or compress the ring reducing its seal pressure
3. basic "gasket-101" - squish _something_ that won't move or you don't care if it does to seal up anything that the harder materials in there can't.
4. holds the ring in place during assembly.


----------



## Aenra

Thanks a lot Cekim 

*edit: everytime you think you've got "everything" sorted/planned.. every damn time, lol..


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*
> 
> how did you get chaeged only 14usd for the new cover? I have the same problem and EK charged me 20 euro for the exact same thing.


Just get a nickel cover next time. You can tighten the fittings as much as you want without having to find the sweet spot between a leak and a cracked cover.


----------



## KaffieneKing

The acetal covers are much stronger as well.


----------



## Garrett1974NL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> The acetal covers are much stronger as well.


True, the only plexiglass in my loop is the reservoir








No plexi covers for me anymore, must've been 6 years since the last plexiglass cover, since then Acetal and I never looked back


----------



## GunfighterAK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Just get a nickel cover next time. You can tighten the fittings as much as you want without having to find the sweet spot between a leak and a cracked cover.


100%, had to learn that the hard way after 2 cracked covers.


----------



## huckincharlie

some inverted ekwb









http://www.overclock.net/t/1636311/sponsored-one-001-scratch-build-pc/40#post_26467867


----------



## DarthBaggins

Pumps mounted, not to get the rest planned out and in the rig after some painting of accents


----------



## xGeNeSisx

Reposted here as I desperately need help guys. Have Alphacool 240 mm XT and Black Ice GTS 360mm rads. I have an EK 100 D5 pump and reservoir combo. I have an EK MX Supremacy EVO block on my 6700k and an EK block on my 1070. I am using EK Duraclear tubing.

My loop has been running flawlessly since I got it up and running about 6 months ago. I moved about 2 months ago and suddenly CPU Temps were skyrocketing into the high 80s to 90C. My GPU temps were absolutely normal. I tried replacing coolant, since I didn't have my tools since I moved.

I decided to fix the issue while I was home on Thanksgiving. I could run the system functionally but no gaming without insane temps. I ordered Mayhems Blitz Park 2, new dye (Mayhems pastel white), and 3 L of Mayhems ultra lure h2o.

I ran Mayhems part 2 for 24 hours and the flushed the system twice with fresh water. No improvement. I then disassemed the CPU block (blockage was preventing outlet flow away from CPU block). I found quite a bit of gunk from my white XSPC dye I was running and some grey buildup on copper plate on EK MX Supremacy EVO. I cleaned it with vinegar and a light brush to clean the copper channels. Everything came out spotless.

I put it back in the system and check the temps. It started out normal and then temps skyrocketed to 88C in the BIOS.

I'm at wits end. I have no clue on how to proceed. I just want a fully functional system again.
Any help would be appreciated, I need to get this fixed. Thanks guys!

Edit: my EK pump appears to be functioning great. I am getting readings of over 4000 rpm.


----------



## Jyve

I'm surprised you didn't check the block right off the bat. After cleaning the block and refilling the loop did it bleed properly? Maybe there's a pocket if air strategically located in the block? Honest still sounds like it's blocked up or maybe blocked up just before the cpu? The gpu or rad?


----------



## ThrashZone

HI,
Finally got my new mono block and installed arty:


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xGeNeSisx*
> 
> Reposted here as I desperately need help guys. Have Alphacool 240 mm XT and Black Ice GTS 360mm rads. I have an EK 100 D5 pump and reservoir combo. I have an EK MX Supremacy EVO block on my 6700k and an EK block on my 1070. I am using EK Duraclear tubing.
> 
> My loop has been running flawlessly since I got it up and running about 6 months ago. I moved about 2 months ago and suddenly CPU Temps were skyrocketing into the high 80s to 90C. My GPU temps were absolutely normal. I tried replacing coolant, since I didn't have my tools since I moved.
> 
> I decided to fix the issue while I was home on Thanksgiving. I could run the system functionally but no gaming without insane temps. I ordered Mayhems Blitz Park 2, new dye (Mayhems pastel white), and 3 L of Mayhems ultra lure h2o.
> 
> I ran Mayhems part 2 for 24 hours and the flushed the system twice with fresh water. No improvement. I then disassemed the CPU block (blockage was preventing outlet flow away from CPU block). I found quite a bit of gunk from my white XSPC dye I was running and some grey buildup on copper plate on EK MX Supremacy EVO. I cleaned it with vinegar and a light brush to clean the copper channels. Everything came out spotless.
> 
> I put it back in the system and check the temps. It started out normal and then temps skyrocketed to 88C in the BIOS.
> 
> I'm at wits end. I have no clue on how to proceed. I just want a fully functional system again.
> Any help would be appreciated, I need to get this fixed. Thanks guys!
> 
> Edit: my EK pump appears to be functioning great. I am getting readings of over 4000 rpm.


From what I hear, it seems the loop is fine. Otherwise your GPU will have issue.

I suggest you re-apply TIM for the CPU block. It may changed due to the move. If so, your CPU block may lose close contact with the HIS causing the CPU temp going up.


----------



## xGeNeSisx

I talked to support from performance-pcs and it's likely I have to reapply CLU on my delidded 6700k. I never considered that could be thr cause. I've had the chip delidded and on my loop for months. The lack of heat dissipation is from poor contact between die and IHS, moving my PC likely caused this. I'll have CLU in a few days and hopefully this will fix it!


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xGeNeSisx*
> 
> I talked to support from performance-pcs and it's likely I have to reapply CLU on my delidded 6700k. I never considered that could be thr cause. I've had the chip delidded and on my loop for months. The lack of heat dissipation is from poor contact between die and IHS, moving my PC likely caused this. I'll have CLU in a few days and hopefully this will fix it!


Is it liquid metal? Then yes that's probably the cause. To avoid this in the future might wan't to consider using some good thermal paste between the die and IHS instead, will last much longer and less prone to move around. Of course it means your temperatures will rise a bit, but it will still be better than Intel's method. Noctua NT-H1 is excellent thermal paste and will take at least 8 years to dry out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xGeNeSisx*
> 
> I talked to support from performance-pcs and it's likely I have to reapply CLU on my delidded 6700k. I never considered that could be thr cause. I've had the chip delidded and on my loop for months. The lack of heat dissipation is from poor contact between die and IHS, moving my PC likely caused this. I'll have CLU in a few days and hopefully this will fix it!
> 
> 
> 
> *Is it liquid metal? Then yes that's probably the cause.* To avoid this in the future might wan't to consider using some good thermal paste between the die and IHS instead, will last much longer and less prone to move around. Of course it means your temperatures will rise a bit, but it will still be better than Intel's method. Noctua NT-H1 is excellent thermal paste and will take at least 8 years to dry out.
Click to expand...

No, no no, no no no, no no no and no.









I believe what he's saying is that he put some high end TIM under the lid and it needs to be changed to CLU. His initial wording is wrong only in the fact that he did not use CLU to begin with.

But to your point that a "good thermal paste" would make better sense than Liquid metal...

Wrong. I used Grizzly Hydronaut under my lid and it straight burned out in 3 months or so. If you tell me that stuff is not a "good thermal paste" then I will listen to what you consider good thermal paste.
















I cleaned up the die on my 4790 and replaced the TIM with CLU and my average surfing temp is 31c, with a crappy stock Dell cooler. No copper on that puppy. Gonna change it up to a 140 CE EK setup with Hardline tubing just to keep things simple.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Is it liquid metal? Then yes that's probably the cause. To avoid this in the future might wan't to consider using some good thermal paste between the die and IHS instead, will last much longer and less prone to move around. Of course it means your temperatures will rise a bit, but it will still be better than Intel's method. Noctua NT-H1 is excellent thermal paste and will take at least 8 years to dry out.


That is terrible advice. We delid for more performance and what you said reduces performance. If we put thermal paste back under the lid, why delid in the first place?

The Intel Dow Corning is actually decent. It's not the best performing but it is durable. Most conventional pastes pump out extremely quickly under the IHS. The only TIM I'd give half a chance to is ICD/Shin Etsu and thats due to the extreme viscosity.

A good liquid metal application should not matter if the CPU was moved around or not. Liquid metal's bulk conductivity and surface tension is so high that even imperfect contact can yield better performance than any paste.


----------



## d0mmie

Nevermind, I'm not here to cause drama or anything. Ignore my advice if you think it's bad


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Nevermind, I'm not here to cause drama or anything. Ignore my advice if you think it's bad


It's not bad advice, it just happens to be wrong. Nothing wrong with having an opinion. But when experienced people step up and let you know that opinion is wrong, it's not "drama" unless you make it so. I been wrong lots of times. There is no first and there may be no last. In this case however, majority rules in the case of CLU.

Where you may be going wrong, now that I think about it a bit, is IHS to CPU cooler. You would in fact be correct in that instance as CLU will chemically bond to aluminum. And in that case I would have completely agreed with you. But in this case it was Die to IHS.









~Ceadder


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> I've done the same in the past. Before they ship, you should throw in a couple extra sets of o-rings.
> 
> Also, to help you reseat the main large o-ring, painters tape and a little DOW 33 o-ring lubricant helps a TON. Otherwise, you'll be getting frustrated really quick trying to fully seat it around all the bends.
> 
> This will last a lifetime, good for all o-rings, helps ensure no leaks as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YQK4SN0/


If your looking for DOW 33 on the cheap call your local paintball shop or ask a friend who plays. Most (not all) paintball marker lube is rebranded DOW 33 with color or fragrance added. IE: Monky Poo, Dye slick lube ect.. I have so much DOW 33 that I don't run out for a decade+. Just make sure to flush the loop very well after it's all together.


----------



## fbmowner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> If your looking for DOW 33 on the cheap call your local paintball shop or ask a friend who plays. Most (not all) paintball marker lube is rebranded DOW 33 with color or fragrance added. IE: Monky Poo, Dye slick lube ect.. I have so much DOW 33 that I don't run out for a decade+. Just make sure to flush the loop very well after it's all together.


He speaks the truth... Paintballer here and I've got plenty of Dye slick lube


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fbmowner*
> 
> He speaks the truth... Paintballer here and I've got plenty of Dye slick lube


Hrm...Ive been playing off and on for almost 20 years and somehow don't think I knew this. Will have to check with some of mine at home. I have some for the Shocker that may be applicable but I doubt my AGD stuff is the same lol.


----------



## KCDC

Is the one I linked not legit? I was told it was and since it was Prime I went with that one:

https://www.amazon.com/Marker-Lubricant-Corning-Recommended-Paintball/dp/B00YQK4SN0/

I was originally pointed to this one, but no Prime and I was in a time crunch:

https://www.amazon.com/Paintball-Lubricant-Grease-Captain-Ring/dp/B00JD3N7W8/ref=sr_1_6

Didn't mean to post bogus stuff if I did.

EDIT: Nevermind, I misread your post... Disregard.


----------



## bud74

Hello. I am putting together a loop using the EK-kit p360. I have a i7-8700k and a GTX 1080ti strix that will be in the loop. These will be housed in a bequiet Dark Base 900 Pro case. I have the front 5.25 bay at the top removed so I have 3 140mm fans at the front of the case right now. I was going to put the 360 rad up top which leaves the front open for another rad. Can I cool the cpu and gpu with just the 360 rad or should I add another rad to the loop right off the bat. Really don't want to get everything put together and then be upset that the one 360 rad isn't pulling the weight so to speak. What do you guys think I should do? Any help will be much appreciated in my first attempt at a close to custom loop!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bud74*
> 
> Hello. I am putting together a loop using the EK-kit p360. I have a i7-8700k and a GTX 1080ti strix that will be in the loop. These will be housed in a bequiet Dark Base 900 Pro case. I have the front 5.25 bay at the top removed so I have 3 140mm fans at the front of the case right now. I was going to put the 360 rad up top which leaves the front open for another rad. Can I cool the cpu and gpu with just the 360 rad or should I add another rad to the loop right off the bat. Really don't want to get everything put together and then be upset that the one 360 rad isn't pulling the weight so to speak. What do you guys think I should do? Any help will be much appreciated in my first attempt at a close to custom loop!


If you are not overclocking, a 360 is fine, and so is air cooling, for that matter.


----------



## bud74

Thanks for the quick response! The i7-8700k was just delidded and will be running at 5ghz. The strix 1080ti runs stable at 2050 on air so yes it will also be overclocked at +70 on the core but no memory overclock. Right now I have a NZXT kraken x62 that is going in my teenage sons build.


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bud74*
> 
> Hello. I am putting together a loop using the EK-kit p360. I have a i7-8700k and a GTX 1080ti strix that will be in the loop. These will be housed in a bequiet Dark Base 900 Pro case. I have the front 5.25 bay at the top removed so I have 3 140mm fans at the front of the case right now. I was going to put the 360 rad up top which leaves the front open for another rad. Can I cool the cpu and gpu with just the 360 rad or should I add another rad to the loop right off the bat. Really don't want to get everything put together and then be upset that the one 360 rad isn't pulling the weight so to speak. What do you guys think I should do? Any help will be much appreciated in my first attempt at a close to custom loop!


I am planing the similar build, p360 for a 7800x and 1080ti. All parts are in but wait till Xmas for the build. Based on what I've read, the p360 should be somewhat overkill already without OC. Let's see how it turn out. I am using TT Core V71 case with all HDD cages removed. The airflow should be enough to cool the RAM, VRM, M.2 drives and chip set. Also plan to mount the GPU vertically for better air cooling of the board.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bud74*
> 
> Thanks for the quick response! The i7-8700k was just delidded and will be running at 5ghz. The strix 1080ti runs stable at 2050 on air so yes it will also be overclocked at +70 on the core but no memory overclock. Right now I have a NZXT kraken x62 that is going in my teenage sons build.


I'd suggest adding a second radiator so you can achieve lower temps and run the fans at a lower speed. Personally, I crammed as many as I could fit into the case.


----------



## bud74

Would the EK coolstream se 240 be a good rad then to add? Need something slim in the front so I am able to have enough room for the pump/res.


----------



## bud74

This is the room I have to work with.. Thanks

20171202_200412.jpg 3314k .jpg file


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bud74*
> 
> Would the EK coolstream se 240 be a good rad then to add? Need something slim in the front so I am able to have enough room for the pump/res.


A single 360 will cool both just fine, but like the previous poster said an additional rad will do better while allowing slower fan speeds and quieter operation.

If you're absolutely stuck with a slim rad then yeah the 240 will be fine. A thicker pe 38mm would be significantly better though.

Also don't let anyone tell you the EK se rads are awful. They're fine. Not best in class, in fact pretty low on most charts. This doesn't mean it's a bad radiator though. It'll just be a few degrees behind something like a hardware labs.

I prefer matching stuff, so to me if I already had an ek rad, I'd prefer to have a second of the same brand. Maybe I'm just weird.

You sure a PE rad won't fit up top? Tall ram or vrm heatsinks? I'm using a Thermaltake view 31 and can fit a 38mm up top and front.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bud74*
> 
> Hello. I am putting together a loop using the EK-kit p360. I have a i7-8700k and a GTX 1080ti strix that will be in the loop. These will be housed in a bequiet Dark Base 900 Pro case. I have the front 5.25 bay at the top removed so I have 3 140mm fans at the front of the case right now. I was going to put the 360 rad up top which leaves the front open for another rad. Can I cool the cpu and gpu with just the 360 rad or should I add another rad to the loop right off the bat. Really don't want to get everything put together and then be upset that the one 360 rad isn't pulling the weight so to speak. What do you guys think I should do? Any help will be much appreciated in my first attempt at a close to custom loop!


heeey bud,









fyi my rig running 3770K [email protected] and 980ti 1400 @1.235v on a single CE280 (280x45) rad keeps component temps down to ~80c max on cpu core(s) (usually mid to upper 70s) and ~51c max on the gpu w/ a ~12c/13c delta in water temps after hours of gaming w/100% on the 140mm vader F2s. the whoosh sound gets filtered out while i game - speakers!.

though fully stressing the system gets water temps towards ~16c delta after 30 mins - it's seems to adequately work well enough but room for improvement. i suspect a 360 rad would slightly improve those temps since the power draw for the i7 would be same as mine but that 1080ti is more power limited than a 980ti.

go for it but plan to add another just in case (no pun intended).


----------



## d0mmie

I've got a bit of a dilemma...

I have an EKWB Dual D5 Revo pump that I want installed in my Phanteks Primo case, however it's going to be tricky installing it as there might not be room for it on any fan mount. Alternatively I could just mount in on the backside of the case, but I would have to drill holes which I'm not really eager to do. So I came up with another solution, which would be using my EKWB D5 Dual Bay Reservoir, mount one pump there and then the outlet directly to the inlet on the second D5 below. Both pumps will run with a speed setting of 1, so they shouldn't really produce any noticeable noise.

Is this a solution that could work, or could I introduce problems doing it this way?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I've got a bit of a dilemma...
> 
> I have an EKWB Dual D5 Revo pump that I want installed in my Phanteks Primo case, however it's going to be tricky installing it as there might not be room for it on any fan mount. Alternatively I could just mount in on the backside of the case, but I would have to drill holes which I'm not really eager to do. So I came up with another solution, which would be using my EKWB D5 Dual Bay Reservoir, mount one pump there and then the outlet directly to the inlet on the second D5 below. Both pumps will run with a speed setting of 1, so they shouldn't really produce any noticeable noise.
> 
> Is this a solution that could work, or could I introduce problems doing it this way?


Don't be a wussy. Just make a hole somewhere.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I've got a bit of a dilemma...
> 
> I have an EKWB Dual D5 Revo pump that I want installed in my Phanteks Primo case, however it's going to be tricky installing it as there might not be room for it on any fan mount. Alternatively I could just mount in on the backside of the case, but I would have to drill holes which I'm not really eager to do. So I came up with another solution, which would be using my EKWB D5 Dual Bay Reservoir, mount one pump there and then the outlet directly to the inlet on the second D5 below. Both pumps will run with a speed setting of 1, so they shouldn't really produce any noticeable noise.
> 
> Is this a solution that could work, or could I introduce problems doing it this way?


Consider doing what I did.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Consider doing what I did.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Well that is more or less how I plan on doing it, by feeding the outlet from the first pump to the inlet of the second. But I think there might be room for the Dual Revo D5 at the same placement you're using, but will probably have to cut a bit off the mounting plate since it's 140x140mm


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pmU8e0ZWj

https://imageshack.com/i/pnUeuqwZj
Picked up a glass Xres 100 with pwm D5, looking forward to using it soon.


----------



## bud74

I think the pe360 will fit up top. The front is what I'm concerned with as I am going to need room for the res/pump combo and that's why I'm thinking of the slim radiator.


----------



## bud74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> A single 360 will cool both just fine, but like the previous poster said an additional rad will do better while allowing slower fan speeds and quieter operation.
> 
> If you're absolutely stuck with a slim rad then yeah the 240 will be fine. A thicker pe 38mm would be significantly better though.
> 
> Also don't let anyone tell you the EK se rads are awful. They're fine. Not best in class, in fact pretty low on most charts. This doesn't mean it's a bad radiator though. It'll just be a few degrees behind something like a hardware labs.
> 
> I prefer matching stuff, so to me if I already had an ek rad, I'd prefer to have a second of the same brand. Maybe I'm just weird.
> 
> You sure a PE rad won't fit up top? Tall ram or vrm heatsinks? I'm using a Thermaltake view 31 and can fit a 38mm up top and front.


I think the pe360 will fit up top. The front is what I'm concerned with as I am going to need room for the res/pump combo and that's why I'm thinking of the slim radiator.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bud74*
> 
> I think the pe360 will fit up top. The front is what I'm concerned with as I am going to need room for the res/pump combo and that's why I'm thinking of the slim radiator.


Looking at the pic sure looks like you have a boat load of room up front.


----------



## hiarc

Looking for a bit of reassurance here.

I have an XE 360, since it is a regular u-flow type radiator I believe I should be able to do something like this without any issues:


Spoiler: Diagram






(drew it up from a side view: black is radiator, red is ports, green is flow)

Am I correct in assuming there should be no issues using opposing ports on each side?


----------



## bud74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Looking at the pic sure looks like you have a boat load of room up front.


You think I should go with another pe 360 then or would the pe 240 suffice?


----------



## bud74

I ended up ordering a EK pe360 as an addition to the p360 kit. So, I think I should be good on keeping things chilly now! What solution and fittings would you guys suggest as far as a t-fitting and drain for maintenance. My tubbing is 3/8 x 1/2, acf 10mm,13mm, and I am using G 1/4 EK fittings for 45 and 90 turns. Thanks


----------



## icywiener

Hey,

I think I got a problem with my EK D5 PWM G2.

what would be the symptoms of a EK D5 PWM G2 which isn't controllable via PWM?
I tried with CPU Header (MSI Z370 Pro Carbon ) and aquaero 6 LT.
The pump is reporting no / strange rpm readings and makes "deepish" noises. As soon as I remove the rpm plug the pump powers up fully.

Should I try the PWM mod posted here ?


----------



## Bartdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icywiener*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> I think I got a problem with my EK D5 PWM G2.
> 
> what would be the symptoms of a EK D5 PWM G2 which isn't controllable via PWM?
> I tried with CPU Header (MSI Z370 Pro Carbon ) and aquaero 6 LT.
> The pump is reporting no / strange rpm readings and makes "deepish" noises. As soon as I remove the rpm plug the pump powers up fully.
> 
> Should I try the PWM mod posted here ?


The old EK-D5 PWM needed the mod, the new G2 version does not (I use 2 G2's through Aquaero 6 XT which work fine) so either there's a prob with the pump or the PWM fan header


----------



## icywiener

I tried now with CPU / Pump Header from mobo -> pump seems to be controllable but doesn't stay constant, its kinda spinning up / down if that makes sense. I would expect it to stay at a certain speed.
I will do more AE6 tests today on all 4 PWM headers.


----------



## Aenra

... why don't you folks just buy a vario D5 and call it a day? ...

I honestly can't understand this PWM obsession. I mean sure, they market it, which means that statistically speaking, an easy 80% of you will go 'wow, the new best thing! Evah!'

But after seeing what it entails, be it for bleeding, controlling, or assuring its compatibility with external hardware, why the insistence, lol?

/rhetorical


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> ... why don't you folks just buy a vario D5 and call it a day? ...
> I honestly can't understand this PWM obsession. I mean sure, they market it, which means that statistically speaking, an easy 80% of you will go 'wow, the new best thing! Evah!'
> But after seeing what it entails, be it for bleeding, controlling, or assuring its compatibility with external hardware, why the insistence, lol?
> 
> /rhetorical


I completely agree! D5 Vario is so much easier to deal with


----------



## icywiener

I ordered a Vario today , should be delivered tomorrow...
I will probably write the EK one of as experiment :>


----------



## svx94

Greetings!
Got all my parts at home but still on the road for business. Have to wait till Xmas for the build. But did a paper exercise. Comments and suggestions are appreciated!

Basic components: TT Core V71 case, Gigabyte Aorus WB 1080ti, EK P360 kit with upgraded Res/top. Will have drain port right at pump Out, and flush port before water return to Res.

Cheers!


----------



## dilster97

Since it's near impossible to find the RVE monoblock and the RVE10 monoblock appears to be everywhere, has anybody heard of or tried to mount the RVE10 block on the RVE?

I'm assuming that the screw layout, heights and positions of the PCBs and other various components are (mostly) unchanged.


----------



## Garrett1974NL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I completely agree! D5 Vario is so much easier to deal with


I put it on 5 when filling the loop, after that it's 1 and it's all good


----------



## Aenra

To the user that recommended Dow's 33.. store nearby has two variations; DC 33 light and DC 33 medium. Any advice?


----------



## khemist

Picked up some of the new m.2 heatsink colours.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> To the user that recommended Dow's 33.. store nearby has two variations; DC 33 light and DC 33 medium. Any advice?


Light is all you need. There isn't going to be any real difference for your application. That probably matters more so with paintball gun applications.

You're just using it slightly on o rings to help seat them and get a 100% proof seal.


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Light is all you need. There isn't going to be any real difference for your application. That probably matters more so with paintball gun applications.
> 
> You're just using it slightly on o rings to help seat them and get a 100% proof seal.


Thank you very much man


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Thank you very much man


Yup, wear nitrile gloves unless you like lubey fingerprints on everything!


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Thank you very much man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, wear nitrile gloves unless you like lubey fingerprints on everything!
Click to expand...

Some things, not everything though ^^


----------



## looniam




----------



## Garrett1974NL

I wish EK would start making their brand badge in matte black as well instead of silver...


----------



## DarthBaggins

That would be nice







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garrett1974NL*
> 
> I wish EK would start making their brand badge in matte black as well instead of silver...


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Is there a larger reservoir tube available for this? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-ddc-mx-3-1-pwm-incl-pump


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> Is there a larger reservoir tube available for this? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-ddc-mx-3-1-pwm-incl-pump


Indeed there is. You can even get a glass res tube for it. Go to Performance-PCs or direct through EK and look through their accessories wares.









~Ceadder


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Indeed there is. You can even get a glass res tube for it. Go to Performance-PCs or direct through EK and look through their accessories wares.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Guess I was looking in the wrong places. Found em!


----------



## scracy

Ready to join the EK Club















Specs in signature.


----------



## bud74

Do you guys know how to terminate the 3mm twin led that came with my EK Supremacy Evo cpu block. It has a 3 pin connector that looks like a dc fan connector. I am confused! I ordered a 3mm twin for the gpu block but it has a molex connector. Any help would be certainly appreciated. By the way, it came in the pe360 kit. Thanks


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Ready to join the EK Club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs in signature.


Very nice...


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> Very nice...


Thanks, took some work but got there in the end


----------



## bud74

Hey scracy. I saw in your post and pics that you used a p360 kit that I am also using. Where did you terminate the cpu block led? It has a 3 pin connector that looks like dc fan type. I bought another 3mm twin led connector for a ek gpu block and that one has molex connector. No part in the documentation shows anything about the cpu block led. Thanks. By the way, your build looks Great!


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bud74*
> 
> Hey scracy. I saw in your post and pics that you used a p360 kit that I am also using. Where did you terminate the cpu block led? It has a 3 pin connector that looks like dc fan type. I bought another 3mm twin led connector for a ek gpu block and that one has molex connector. No part in the documentation shows anything about the cpu block led. Thanks. By the way, your build looks Great!


My CPU block LED is a Molex plug terminated at the back of the case


----------



## Batboy

Yeah looks good.. I think if I went the case route id get one of those kits. but idc stick to the stand like usual. already start getting close to chip and board limitations anyways. Might as well just run air man imo.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> My CPU block LED is a Molex plug terminated at the back of the case


What do you mean by "terminated at the back of the case?"


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> What do you mean by "terminated at the back of the case?"


Exactly that, the flyleads on the EK LED are long enough to reach around the back of my case and plug the molex into the PSU wiring loom


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Ready to join the EK Club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs in signature.


Beautiful build! Congrats!


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svx94*
> 
> Beautiful build! Congrats!


Greatly appreciated, cheers


----------



## neSSa

The holidays are coming


----------



## bud74

OK. I figured it out. The led that comes off the cpu block has a three pin two wire female connector that I have to terminate into one of my old molex fan extensions laying around in a old box of goodies I haven't used in years! The p360 kit I have is rev1.3... Don't know why they don't have a molex on the end like 'scracy' has!


----------



## stephenn82

Hello everyone!

I am looking to join this fine group in the near future, but have a question. Or two...

I see that EK has two versions of the 1080 FTW block.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-ftw-acetal-nickel (old, no LED cutouts)

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-ftw2-acetal-nickel?___store=default (new, with fancy shmancy LED support)

Is it worth the money to buy the newer block? I have the 1080 FTW Hybrid (6288-KR model). I dont think my card supports LED's other than the "EVGA" on side of hybrid cooler. I think getting the older edition at Micro Center for 72 bucks (or open box for 63!) is what I shall do.

I dont think I will ever get any cards with LED's all over them. Should I just save half the money and get the older style?

Will the stock backplate work with the EK block? I think I seen that it will...but want to make sure. These are (or were) on sale at Micro Center for like 4.99, which is a steal!


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bud74*
> 
> OK. I figured it out. The led that comes off the cpu block has a three pin two wire female connector that I have to terminate into one of my old molex fan extensions laying around in a old box of goodies I haven't used in years! The p360 kit I have is rev1.3... Don't know why they don't have a molex on the end like 'scracy' has!


i got the same w/ P280 kit late last year and it conveniently plugged into a fan header just below the socket. unfortunately, with me squishing the extra wire between vrm heat sink and block caused a resistor lead to snap off. the only issue i had was the signal need to be ~60% for a dim glow 100% for bright; so i had to run speed fan unless heavy benching.









i really did like that set up though and a little bummed i can't find the same connection. but for a static bright light, molex is the way to go . . . . . i guess.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> 
> I am looking to join this fine group in the near future, but have a question. Or two...
> 
> I see that EK has two versions of the 1080 FTW block.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-ftw-acetal-nickel (old, no LED cutouts)
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-ftw2-acetal-nickel?___store=default (new, with fancy shmancy LED support)
> 
> Is it worth the money to buy the newer block? I have the 1080 FTW Hybrid (6288-KR model). I dont think my card supports LED's other than the "EVGA" on side of hybrid cooler. I think getting the older edition at Micro Center for 72 bucks (or open box for 63!) is what I shall do.
> 
> I dont think I will ever get any cards with LED's all over them. Should I just save half the money and get the older style?
> 
> Will the stock backplate work with the EK block? I think I seen that it will...but want to make sure. These are (or were) on sale at Micro Center for like 4.99, which is a steal!


Get the open box! Drill your pwn LED holes. Unless your card is mounted vertically, you won't see the acetal. Personally, I prefer the plain acetal, nevermind the cost.

Get the EK backplate too if it's only $5.


----------



## stephenn82

Thanks for reply!

I dont think my card even has the LED on it like the newer FTW2 models do. I was considering buying two backplates and both the open box and new blocks. It would be just over the regular cost of one block!

How does the EK backplate compare to stock for cooling purposes? That means the stock EVGA plate doesnt work? I seen somewhere that older plates, like the 980Ti didnt align with screw hole sizes...I assume this is the case? m2.5x3 vs m3x4?


----------



## stephenn82

Well, I found a video..its in Russian, but he is reusing the stock backplate on his FTW model with the EK block.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> ...


Is this the new EK design? Doesn't look any better


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svx94*
> 
> Is this the new EK design? Doesn't look any better


No, they're painted PE rads. I personally like their aesthetic


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> No, they're painted PE rads. I personally like their aesthetic


I see. The paint is very nice. Don't like the logo much - too busy.


----------



## GunfighterAK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Thanks for reply!
> 
> I dont think my card even has the LED on it like the newer FTW2 models do. I was considering buying two backplates and both the open box and new blocks. It would be just over the regular cost of one block!
> 
> How does the EK backplate compare to stock for cooling purposes? That means the stock EVGA plate doesnt work? I seen somewhere that older plates, like the 980Ti didnt align with screw hole sizes...I assume this is the case? m2.5x3 vs m3x4?


I've reused the stock EVGA backplate on my 1080 SC with the EK waterblock, just I did't use some of the screw but EK seems to over compensate.


----------



## RichKnecht

I am thinking of replacing my Corsair H100i V2 with one of these:

http://www.microcenter.com/product/486742/EK-KIT_L240_water_cooling_Kit

Does that make sense or should I build my own kit with different parts. I just want CPU cooling as I don't do any gaming.


----------



## looniam

it's are fine for a one stop solution. but you get very vanilla parts/fittings. on a side note: do a little diagram of your pumping - make sure you don't need a 90/45 degree fitting for whatever reason off the rad or pump.

or though it is more function over form - something other than the clear tubing/coolant could add some appreciated color.

yeah personal preference mostly in my view.


----------



## KaffieneKing

@RichKnecht do yourself a favour, buy a m-m connector, a T bit and a ball valve for draining also, then when you need to change fluid it'll be much easier!


----------



## RichKnecht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> it's are fine for a one stop solution. but you get very vanilla parts/fittings. on a side note: do a little diagram of your pumping - make sure you don't need a 90/45 degree fitting for whatever reason off the rad or pump.
> 
> or though it is more function over form - something other than the clear tubing/coolant could add some appreciated color.
> 
> yeah personal preference mostly in my view.


I put together my own loop with separate parts like a D5 pump and EK Supremacy block, larger reservoir, and different radiator. Price was about $450. While I don't mind spending the money, is it really worth twice the price? The EK kit has to outperform the H100i as I am sure the block design and radiator, even in this basic kit is superior.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> @RichKnecht do yourself a favour, buy a m-m connector, a T bit and a ball valve for draining also, then when you need to change fluid it'll be much easier!


That's a great idea. I was wondering how I would drain/flush/refill this when yhe time comes.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichKnecht*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> it's are fine for a one stop solution. but you get very vanilla parts/fittings. on a side note: do a little diagram of your pumping - make sure you don't need a 90/45 degree fitting for whatever reason off the rad or pump.
> 
> or though it is more function over form - something other than the clear tubing/coolant could add some appreciated color.
> 
> yeah personal preference mostly in my view.
> 
> 
> 
> I put together my own loop with separate parts like a D5 pump and EK Supremacy block, larger reservoir, and different radiator. Price was about $450. While I don't mind spending the money, is it really worth twice the price? The EK kit has to outperform the H100i as I am sure the block design and radiator, even in this basic kit is superior.
Click to expand...

not to bee snarky, but yeah getting bigger/better than what's in the kit would cost more.

but if you are sticking to your simple one block loop, it won't. i specifically avoided those components in my example. mentioning the rad . .a bigger one would mean lower fans speeds/quieter. mentioned fittings because though your case probably is big enough . ._just where are things going?_

i opened my box but it was two hours before i could start plumbing . .and some last minute hammering to mod the case . i sorta consider myself lucky how it all worked out in the end.


----------



## RichKnecht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> not to bee snarky, but yeah getting bigger/better than what's in the kit would cost more.
> 
> but if you are sticking to your simple one block loop, it won't. i specifically avoided those components in my example. mentioning the rad . .a bigger one would mean lower fans speeds/quieter. mentioned fittings because though your case probably is big enough . ._just where are things going?_
> 
> i opened my box but it was two hours before i could start plumbing . .and some last minute hammering to mod the case . i sorta consider myself lucky how it all worked out in the end.


Snark away







My case is a MasterCase Maker 5 with tinted glass side panel. The radiator is going in the top which is why I am going with a 240mm "kit". I will never want to cool my GPU, so CPU cooling is the only thing I am after. I am running a heavily OC'ed X5675 (4.64GHz @ 1.42V) so it does get warm when I am editing photos. I know it's old technology, but I am old too


----------



## looniam

i tell the kids to stay off my lawn all the time.









really just be where the pump/res going. on the bottom easy and though the pump's head pressure won't have an issue pushing coolant up . . closer to the block/rad will take it easier on the guy.

not looking a CM's site right now . . but if you find a different home in the case . . i'm probably complicating things a little here.


----------



## RichKnecht

I can easily mount this on the rear of my case:

http://www.microcenter.com/product/486782/EK-XRES_140_Revo_D5_PWM_including_pump

this up top:

http://www.microcenter.com/product/486731/240_mm_High-performance_computer_water-cooling_radiator

and this waterblock:

http://www.microcenter.com/product/486727/EK-Supremacy_EVO__Water_Block_-_Acetal

I'll figure out fittings once I get those mounted. I will probably add primo chill blood red tubing if it fits the compression fittings.


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichKnecht*
> 
> I put together my own loop with separate parts like a D5 pump and EK Supremacy block, larger reservoir, and different radiator. Price was about $450. While I don't mind spending the money, is it really worth twice the price? The EK kit has to outperform the H100i as I am sure the block design and radiator, even in this basic kit is superior.
> That's a great idea. I was wondering how I would drain/flush/refill this when yhe time comes.


I tried to buy pieces and compare with the kit, it turned out kit is still a better deal. But in the end, I still spent near $200 extra on top of the P360 kit. The drain port itself really should be part of any kit, I see that is one of the key advantage (maintainability) over the AIO. I also upgraded the reservoir to a longer one, add a multiport top so I can return the water from the top.

I don't plan to do serious OC, so the whole thing is likely to be an overkill. But the build process itself is a big part of fun!


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichKnecht*
> 
> I am thinking of replacing my Corsair H100i V2 with one of these:
> 
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/486742/EK-KIT_L240_water_cooling_Kit
> 
> Does that make sense or should I build my own kit with different parts. I just want CPU cooling as I don't do any gaming.


If your case is large enough, I would recommend the P240. It's performance is very close the the P360 with a thicker rad. And kit is cheaper than a la cart parts in my experience.


----------



## RichKnecht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svx94*
> 
> If your case is large enough, I would recommend the P240. It's performance is very close the the P360 with a thicker rad. And kit is cheaper than a la cart parts in my experience.


Unfortunately, I have a mid-tower case, so I don't have quite that much room for such a thick radiator. I figure I can add another 120mm radiator (or 2) if this 240 doesn't do what I want.


----------



## RichKnecht

Just to follow up my progress, I bought and installed the L240 "kit" today. I was surprised to see a PE radiator instead of the SE. Idle temps went from 34 to 27 and full load went from 74-63. Better yet, my PC is almost silent now unless I am loading the crap out of it. Am I happy? No, I am ecstatic! No idea why I didn't just do this in the first place. Oh well, live and learn.


----------



## looniam

good score on the rad glad to hear it!









iirc EK's thicker rads do like higher(ish) fan speeds (~1300rpm) to really shine through. ~800rpm many other brands are a bit ahead for cooling performance.

not suggesting you sacrifice silence doing "normal stuff" but having a bit aggressive fan curve for heavy loads.

again so glad for you!


----------



## RichKnecht

Since my system is kinda old, I don't have any fancy MB software to control the fans. Maybe I will go into bios and set them for full speed and see how that goes.


----------



## looniam

my asus Z77-v pro allowed me to manually adjust temp/pmw%

there is speed fan to use in the OS and it's old too.









jays2cents does have a good tut.





but i only bothered with that when heavy benching - constant 100%.

but the bios setting(s) ought to be enough . .


----------



## RichKnecht

I have them at 100% and it's not all that loud. My case fans are running in PWM mode, so they only ramp up when the PC is under heavy load. The system is 1 day old and I am already thinking of adding a 120mm radiator on the rear and a larger reservoir. While it's empty, I may just replace the black hose with clear and use red dye in the fluid.


----------



## RichKnecht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> my asus Z77-v pro allowed me to manually adjust temp/pmw%
> 
> there is speed fan to use in the OS and it's old too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jays2cents does have a good tut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but i only bothered with that when heavy benching - constant 100%.
> 
> but the bios setting(s) ought to be enough . .


I don't think speed fan works with my MB.


----------



## looniam

"once you dip your toes in water . . . "

i'm not sure what all and how much another 120 would benefit; what you could realistically expect. i'm sorta kicking myself not suggesting a 360 rad - thought telling the benefit(s) would be a hard sell, sorry.

truth be told, i am confident/competent enough to get someone started (well aside from avoiding hard sells). but in other instances, this place is loaded with helpful, knowledge system builders that know a lot of ins and outs. (i know more by reading their posts than what i've done myself.)

i think @TheCautiousOne has a little spare time on his hands atm, maybe see if he pops up. he can definable tell you whats the better clear tubing and what red coolant works/looks the best also.


----------



## RichKnecht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> "once you dip your toes in water . . . "
> 
> i'm not sure what all and how much another 120 would benefit; what you could realistically expect. i'm sorta kicking myself not suggesting a 360 rad - thought telling the benefit(s) would be a hard sell, sorry.
> 
> truth be told, i am confident/competent enough to get someone started (well aside from avoiding hard sells). but in other instances, this place is loaded with helpful, knowledge system builders that know a lot of ins and outs. (i know more by reading their posts than what i've done myself.)
> 
> i think @TheCautiousOne has a little spare time on his hands atm, maybe see if he pops up. he can definable tell you whats the better clear tubing and what red coolant works/looks the best also.


I thought about the 360. The problem is that I would have to remove 8 hard drives to make it fit. Since I am a photographer, I need all those hard drives as they contain photos. My problem is, I love to tinker and build stuff. Once I get to overclocking, I can get carried away. If I do add the radiator (120 or another 240) and bigger reservoir, I'll let you know how it goes. My only "problem" is that I should have ditched the black tube and gone red from the get go. I just wanted to save a little money.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

What's up?

TCO


----------



## RichKnecht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What's up?
> 
> TCO


Short story...ditched my H100i V2 and installed an EK L240 kit. That was yesterday. Now I am thinking I should have bought a second radiator, probably a 120 for the rear of my case, and either clear tubing (instead of the black) and red dye to match my black/red build. Also looking at a larger reservoir as I think the tube unscrews off of mine. The larger reservoir would be for cosmetics and visual "impact". Do you think I will gain anything by adding the second radiator? What about swapping the fans for red LED ML120s?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichKnecht*
> 
> Short story...ditched my H100i V2 and installed an EK L240 kit. That was yesterday. Now I am thinking I should have bought a second radiator, probably a 120 for the rear of my case, and either clear tubing (instead of the black) and red dye to match my black/red build. Also looking at a larger reservoir as I think the tube unscrews off of mine. The larger reservoir would be for cosmetics and visual "impact". Do you think I will gain anything by adding the second radiator? What about swapping the fans for red LED ML120s?


What are you cooling. What are current temps?

TCO


----------



## RichKnecht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What are you cooling. What are current temps?
> 
> TCO


First off, before I tell you, I know it's old gear. That's OK, I am old gear too







I have a x5675 with a 24/7 OC of 4.62 GHz at 1.40625V. My case is a Cooler Master Maker 5 with tempered glass side panel. Idle temps, once the cooler stabilizes, are 31-32 across all cores. Under heavy load, ~71 on all cores. I don't think that 71 is bad...or is it?


----------



## DarthBaggins

71 is safe, I ran a 4790k 24/7 for a couple years at 68-74c (for [email protected])


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichKnecht*
> 
> First off, before I tell you, I know it's old gear. That's OK, I am old gear too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a x5675 with a 24/7 OC of 4.62 GHz at 1.40625V. My case is a Cooler Master Maker 5 with tempered glass side panel. Idle temps, once the cooler stabilizes, are 31-32 across all cores. Under heavy load, ~71 on all cores. I don't think that 71 is bad...or is it?


That's a 6 core it looks like? 12 Threads? And you run overclocked. So @ 71C on a heavy load isn't horrible. Though in this case, I would easily not have a problem tossing another 240mm rad in the loop. Stick to distilled water though for optimal temps.

TCO


----------



## RichKnecht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That's a 6 core it looks like? 12 Threads? And you run overclocked. So @ 71C on a heavy load isn't horrible. Though in this case, I would easily not have a problem tossing another 240mm rad in the loop. Stick to distilled water though for optimal temps.
> 
> TCO


Yes, 6 cores/12 threads. I have clear cryofuel in it now because I was too lazy to stop at another store to get distilled water. What about dye/coloring? Really want red lines/water (or both).


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would go with tubing, red fluids and dyes stain like crazy (look great but yeah)


----------



## MNMadman

I agree with @DarthBaggins. PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing in Bloodshed Red looks awesome. I used it in a build named "RED Glare" (red tubing, clear fans with red LEDs, red-sleeved power supply cables).


----------



## RichKnecht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> I agree with @DarthBaggins. PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing in Bloodshed Red looks awesome. I used it in a build named "RED Glare" (red tubing, clear fans with red LEDs, red-sleeved power supply cables).


Yeah, I should have picked that up. I want to light my EK block too. Have any suggestions for lighting my reservoir? I'll just stick with the clear fluid.


----------



## nycgtr

Actually i used XSPC red dye for a year and to my surprise there was no staining almost.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know I had staining with Mayhems red dyes and fluids vs their blue I had zero issues.


----------



## stephenn82

Today I picked up a block and backplate for my 1080 FTW. Now...gotta source the rest of the parts. Pump, rads, fittings, tubing, reservoir. In due time.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I need to check the one's near me for their stock and pricing, mainly just 1080 blocks have been reduced - was hoping for some ti blocks


----------



## KCDC

Got my Plexi FC Terminal X2 for my gpus!

Will install this weekend. Then Vue! In January...


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I need to check the one's near me for their stock and pricing, mainly just 1080 blocks have been reduced - was hoping for some ti blocks


The Ti blocks at my store are full price. I didnt see any open box items either. I can keep my eyes peeled for ya.


----------



## stephenn82

There is a black backplate open box at my local store.

http://www.microcenter.com/product/486593/EK-FC1080_GTX_Ti_Backplate_-_Black?ob=1


----------



## RichKnecht

Just gotta love Microcenter. I have one 10 minutes away


----------



## DarthBaggins

Fortunately I have 2 MC locations to choose from here in GA, but now live within 10/15mins from their Marietta location (used to live in the middle of both - 20/30min drive either direction)


----------



## RichKnecht

OK, so looking in my case (Master Case Maker 5T) I am trying to figure out where to put a second 240MM radiator. The front would be easy, but I have 7 hard drives there now and I do not want to move them outside the case. So, I have been researching radiator stands. Seems to be a great option for me as it would allow me to put the radiator where I want it in the case. Has anyone used these stands/brackets to accomplish this? If so, which brackets did you buy?


----------



## stephenn82

Seems to be more wise to start investing in an NAS.


----------



## RichKnecht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Seems to be more wise to start investing in an NAS.


Have 2 of those already. I am out of real estate in/around my desk.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichKnecht*
> 
> Have 2 of those already. I am out of real estate in/around my desk.


That's the beauty of a NAS. Mine is in a wee cupboard at the other end of the house


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Seems to be more wise to start investing in an NAS.


This... and 10GbE.

I went through a long process of "making it work" from case-to-case. It seems there are some systemic flaws common to all cases when it comes to cramming radiators in.

There seems to be a grand conspiracy or cult at work ensuring that whether push or push/pull, if a rad is mounted at the top, the fans hit the CPU power pins in just the right spot. Every case, every brand, if it isn't a $500 case, it hits... Maybe you can shave the tabs off and make it work, or maybe if you commit to total tear-down to get to those connectors you can kludge it, but it hits.

There is also a grand conspiracy against push/pull generally.

I gave up and frankly, for anything that requires a full-custom loop, I'm just going to fabricate a case for it. I spent less time doing so this go-around than I have trying to make cases work. I've started trying to keep track of the custom parts I've had to cut (cad/cam) and make more than one at a time where appropriate. So, each time it gets a little easier.

I need to do more to come up with a system for a "sealed case". One nice looking open structure case is fine if you filter the fans locally (each fan has a filter), but regularly dusting a collection of computers gets pretty tedious. Though my flow of late is that once it leaves my desk, it is on a short path to being stuffed into a 4U rackmount box with an AIO or demotion to air-cooling.


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> That's the beauty of a NAS. Mine is in a wee cupboard at the other end of the house


This too - racks in the basement FTW


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> This too - racks in the basement FTW


haha that amount of storage could have held the entire internet not that long ago.


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> haha that amount of storage could have held the entire internet not that long ago.


It's not all storage - only the synology and then one of the 4U boxes are storage... Still at something like 80TB, that statement was likely true at some point in the 90's... The rest are computes and likely some terrifying quantity of the top10 super-computers worth of them in that same time...

LOL - just looked - fastest super computer in 1995 was 170 GFLOPS 2000 was ~5TFLOPS

It would depend on how you measured them, but I think there's 4-5TFLOPS there of LinPack performance...


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> a grand conspiracy


^^

Am new to loops and all that, but i tend to think a lot and in advance (helps cover for the inexperience). Have been finding issue after issue just looking at the various chassis 'trends' and imagining how it'd be, fitting a proper loop in them..

You were joking, but in a perverse kind of way, you weren't far off, lol

Just.. in an inverse manner; it's the customers, not the manufacturers. They want pretty lights, ergo they want glass. They want 'open' (so as better to see the pretty lights), ergo they eschew systems where racks may be placed/alchoves/corners may be utilized. They want shrouds and covers (because cables are evil, true electicity travels magically), indirectly pushing for less and less main chamber space. They have been taught recycling hot air is just kosher, so they have no reason to expect well thoughtout designs, let alone demand them.

Now many might find offense, but just the air recycling bit.. easily the vast majority out there, youtube 'personas' or normal folks, 1 or 6k rigs, that's what they do. Could go on, but you get my point.

Had initially considered taking my own blueprint to a CnCer, but when he told me how much that would cost, calibrating just for me, lol.

Then i considered 3d printing, but it has its own drawbacks and i don't even think i could do it locally, enter more searching for someone that fits my bill.

In the end, Caselabs won 

Would still love to construct my own case. Don't have the skills to do it myself though.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> It's not all storage - only the synology and then one of the 4U boxes are storage... Still at something like 80TB, that statement was likely true at some point in the 90's... The rest are computes and likely some terrifying quantity of the top10 super-computers worth of them in that same time...
> 
> LOL - just looked - fastest super computer in 1995 was 170 GFLOPS 2000 was ~5TFLOPS
> 
> It would depend on how you measured them, but I think there's 4-5TFLOPS there of LinPack performance...


I remember connecting to the internet in the early 90s. You had to ring the server guy and say connecting in 3...2...1... then put the phone handset into this crazy cradle.


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> I remember connecting to the internet in the early 90s. You had to ring the server guy and say connecting in 3...2...1... then put the phone handset into this crazy cradle.


We never had to talk to a human - but for a while you only got to the pitiful internet through AOL, Compuserve, Prodigy, etc... good times... (no, actually terrible times... now is better...







)


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> You were joking, but in a perverse kind of way, you weren't far off, lol
> 
> ....
> Had initially considered taking my own blueprint to a CnCer, but when he told me how much that would cost, calibrating just for me, lol.
> Then i considered 3d printing, but it has its own drawbacks and i don't even think i could do it locally, enter more searching for someone that fits my bill.
> In the end, Caselabs won


yeah, I'm fortunate to have the tools around to CNC my own stuff to a large degree. I don't have a large enough table to cut/press full-size case panels with a CNC, so I have to use CNC for smaller and precision cuts/drills and "old fashioned" table saw or jig saw for larger cuts. I might try some glass-work eventually, but I very quickly hit a point of "good enough" and lose patience for aesthetics and move on to the overclocking, computing, coding, gaming side...


This was my last attempt to mod an existing case. It went well, but... a. see Conspiracy on push/pull b. I needed more rad for the 7980xe c. see "as much time as starting from scratch"
I cut the basic shape of the mid-plane on the table saw and then used CNC to mill/drill out the various holes (water bulkheads, PCIe cut-outs (the tabs on the bottom go through the mid-plane), motherboard stand-offs, etc... ), CNC cut/drilled the angle brackets that mounted the mid-plane to the sides in place of the riveted part from the factory. Quite a few little nooks and crannies had to be carved out.


----------



## RichKnecht

First off, this is a great forum. Nobody has called me nuts for doing all of this for an old system/cpu. Frankly it gets the job done then some. Anyhow, just got back from MC with some new tubing (blood red primo chill), some fittings to make a drain, and another radiator. I was going to buy fans as well, but remembered I might still have the Corsairs I took off my OLD H100. Since my case was apart, I decided to swap out the Vardas that the EK kit came with for the old Corsairs. WOW what a surprise! These fans are awesome! I had to look up the specs and this is what I found:

Fan airflow: 46 - 92 CFM
Fan dBA: 22 - 39 dBA
Fan static pressure: 1.6 - *7.7mm/H20*

EK Vardas:

- Max Air Flow: 63 CFM = 107 m³/h
- Static Pressure: 2.24mm H2O = 22 Pa
- Sleeved cable length: 300 mm
- Noise Level: 29.5 dBA

At around 1200rpm, these seem to move as much air as the Vardas and are pretty darn quiet. However, if I load the PC, they kick up to full speed and really push some serious air. Load temps dropped by 6 degrees and if I keeps them at full speed, I can get idle temps around 26 degrees ( room temp 66 degrees F). So, I am not sure I am going to need this second radiator after all if I keep these fans installed. Or, do I install the radiator with the Vardas just for good measure? Decisions, decisions.


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichKnecht*
> 
> First off, this is a great forum. Nobody has called me nuts for doing all of this for an old system/cpu. Frankly it gets the job done then some. Anyhow, just got back from MC with some new tubing (blood red primo chill), some fittings to make a drain, and another radiator. I was going to buy fans as well, but remembered I might still have the Corsairs I took off my OLD H100. Since my case was apart, I decided to swap out the Vardas that the EK kit came with for the old Corsairs. WOW what a surprise! These fans are awesome! I had to look up the specs and this is what I found:
> 
> Fan airflow: 46 - 92 CFM
> Fan dBA: 22 - 39 dBA
> Fan static pressure: 1.6 - *7.7mm/H20*
> 
> At around 1200rpm, these seem to move as much air as the Vardas and are pretty darn quiet. However, if I load the PC, they kick up to full speed and really push some serious air. Load temps dropped by 6 degrees and if I keeps them at full speed, I can get idle temps around 26 degrees ( room temp 66 degrees F). So, I am not sure I am going to need this second radiator after all if I keep these fans installed. Or, do I install the radiator with the Vardas just for good measure? Decisions, decisions.


Keep in mind that 7.7mm/H20 number will sound like a rack-mount server/airport/leaf blower.

My current setup has 12 ML120 (2x2x3 push/pull on 2 360 rads). They do amazing things at full speed cooling-wise (dissipate ~450-500W each rad with 60C or lower temps), but its not quiet at those speeds. You are moving an enormous amount of air so NO fan is going to be quiet at those speeds/pressures.

They DO run quiet when slow, in fact, I like the tone of them better than the vardars which I think have a low-frequency rumble to them compared to the ML120's

Just keep in mind that Vardars and Corsairs sound-pressure to air-flow is very close if not favoring the Vardars, so some of it is preference (the "rumble" I mentioned).


----------



## RichKnecht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> Keep in mind that 7.7mm/H20 number will sound like a rack-mount server/airport/leaf blower.
> 
> My current setup has 12 ML120 (2x2x3 push/pull on 2 360 rads). They do amazing things at full speed cooling-wise (dissipate ~450-500W with 60C or lower temps), but its not quiet at those speeds. You are moving an enormous amount of air so NO fan is going to be quiet at those speeds/pressures.
> 
> They DO run quiet when slow, in fact, I like the tone of them better than the vardars which I think have a low-frequency rumble to them compared to the ML120's
> 
> Just keep in mind that Vardars and Corsairs sound-pressure to air-flow is very close if not favoring the Vardars, so some of it is preference (the "rumble" I mentioned).


I am working on my computer now editing a lot of pictures and I have the fans at 100%. They are kind of loud, but not obnoxious. I was going to buy the red MLs, and still may do so. At "normal" speed, I can barely hear the fans and I am right next to my PC.


----------



## Aenra

@cekim you reminded me of how it always feels better, when you've made something yourself 

If you don't mind, could you upload a pic/specs of the machine? Curious, specially about how much space it takes, only seen big ones so far.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> This... and 10GbE.
> 
> I went through a long process of "making it work" from case-to-case. It seems there are some systemic flaws common to all cases when it comes to cramming radiators in.
> 
> There seems to be a grand conspiracy or cult at work ensuring that whether push or push/pull, if a rad is mounted at the top, the fans hit the CPU power pins in just the right spot. Every case, every brand, if it isn't a $500 case, it hits... Maybe you can shave the tabs off and make it work, or maybe if you commit to total tear-down to get to those connectors you can kludge it, but it hits.
> 
> There is also a grand conspiracy against push/pull generally.
> 
> I gave up and frankly, for anything that requires a full-custom loop, I'm just going to fabricate a case for it. I spent less time doing so this go-around than I have trying to make cases work. I've started trying to keep track of the custom parts I've had to cut (cad/cam) and make more than one at a time where appropriate. So, each time it gets a little easier.
> 
> I need to do more to come up with a system for a "sealed case". One nice looking open structure case is fine if you filter the fans locally (each fan has a filter), but regularly dusting a collection of computers gets pretty tedious. Though my flow of late is that once it leaves my desk, it is on a short path to being stuffed into a 4U rackmount box with an AIO or demotion to air-cooling.


Gotta do research before buying a case. I have a top mount 280. The radiator is 1mm from the fitting coming out of the VRM water block. One of the fans is about 4mm from the top of my RAM heat spreaders.


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> @cekim
> you reminded me of how it always feels better, when you've made something yourself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't mind, could you upload a pic/specs of the machine? Curious, specially about how much space it takes, only seen big ones so far.


I don't have good current pics - been busy, but I do have pics of the prior incarnation of the same chasis:

Here it is before it went push/pull and 7980xe. The prior/placeholder system was:
- 2x2969v3 OC (uCode exploit - 3.8GHzx18 / 3.3GHz x36 - 18 core jobs run @ 3.8GHz, 19+ @ 3.3-3.7 depending on load)
- 2x1080ti EK FC blocks on dedicated EK 360XE (vardar pull 1350rpm)
- 2xevo blocks on dedicated EK 360XE (vardar pull 1350rpm)
- 8xSSDs (850 pro) mounted to acrylic plates (CNC drilled/milled) controlled with SAS/SATA controller
- Aquaro 6XT controlling fans via water temp sensors in rads

The outer dimensions are 18.5inx12inx17.5in HxWxD

The frame is makerbeam 15mm (makerbeam XL). There are cheaper ways to do extrusion based builds - MB knows their market well and prices accordingly







That market is lazy and wants to be sure it will all fit together (i.e. trading off time/money). The basic idea is pretty wonderful though - you have to re-tap any of the extrusions you cut if you want to thread them in, but all time and care of drilling elsewhere is replaced with t-slot nuts that you can move around (and you can use L-brackets instead - I've done both for strength).

I moved around the mid-plane portion of this to change it from SSI-EEB to EATX mounts which differ quite a bit. Required some new cross braces as well. I just cut them on a table saw with a fiberglass metal-cutting blade except for the rear strut that I CNC notched around the sound-ports. I actually abandoned this notched post and floated that part of the frame above the I/O shield now (see last picture).

I've overbuilt this as I move it around via car a few times a year. It gets thrown in a bag and then bounced down the highway in my jeep.

In addition to push/pull, I now have filters on each of the 120 fans on the front - directly attached to the fan
(like these guys: https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Cooler-Filter-Dustproof-Computer/dp/B01M0A2UH0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1513281757&sr=8-3&keywords=120+fan+filters)

New machine is:
- 7980xe @4.6GHz R6E 128G 3200C14
- EK monoblock
- 2x1080ti
- same 2x360 rads with push/pull ML120
- not using the aquaero yet on this one - using CPU temp and GPU probe placed under the back-plate behind the ASIC

The new setup required a few re-works of the inner mid-plane beams that you cannot see and I have not restored the Aquero (yet), but the basic frame is the same.







Last but not least - the current setup:

rear frame floated rather than notched:


----------



## Aenra

You've done a lot more work than i originally imagined.. looks nice 

How much does the frame weigh, any idea?


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> You've done a lot more work than i originally imagined.. looks nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much does the frame weigh, any idea?


thx... I've been debating a DIY laser cutter to fab larger parts (acrylic/plastic mid-planes, panels, etc... ).

re: wieght - hmmm, don't know...... All aluminum, save the screws and brackets.

specs say: 0.297g/mm... soooo

(18.5x25.4)x10 => 4699.0
(17.5x25.4)x8 => 3556.0
(12x25.4)x4 => 1219.2

~9.5kg => ~21lbs

hmm, didn't feel that heavy, maybe I goofed my math?

There are easier ways to do various things that I did with CNC, but they generally trade off compactness which was important to me. I wanted this to be as small or smaller than the Air 740 that got me thinking about a quasi-symmetrical dual chamber approach.


----------



## xarot

Has the EK Supremacy EVO Clean CSQ Full Copper been discontinued? I cannot find this block from EK site:


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Has the EK Supremacy EVO Clean CSQ Full Copper been discontinued? I cannot find this block from EK site:


looks to be that way. Only the clear top clean is option listed on store. Try looking at Amazon, Newegg, FrozenCPU, etc for stock? Or any other equal competitors in EU? I know overclockers.co.uk based out of the UK has items like this.

I have found other various listed companies who have stuff, but probably dont pertain to what you are looking for
https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/wiki/retailers

Doesnt look like amazon has one either. Just the ones with the C milled into the body.


----------



## M3TAl

Question for you EK experts. Can the EK-FC Terminals be used with different blocks/cards instead of identical ones? Or will things not line up? Could it be used with an EK-FC1070 GTX and this 290 EK/Visiontek block?


----------



## KCDC

Anyone from EK or anyone that knows:

I'd like to purchase the EK Glass Res EK-RES X4 250 (R2.0)

But, I'd like to use the pump top from my Revo kit so I can keep my pump and res as one piece. Anyone know if this glass res is the same threading/diameter as their others? Will this work? Thanks!!


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Anyone from EK or anyone that knows:
> 
> I'd like to purchase the EK Glass Res EK-RES X4 250 (R2.0)
> 
> But, I'd like to use the pump top from my Revo kit so I can keep my pump and res as one piece. Anyone know if this glass res is the same threading/diameter as their others? Will this work? Thanks!!


The x4 reservoir borosilicate glass tube is 80mm in diameter (OD), while their x3 reservoirs are 60mm in diameter. I'm fairly sure they don't make an adapter/top that allows mounting a pump to the x4 version.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> The s4 reservoir borosilicate glass tube is 80mm in diameter (OD), while their x3 reservoirs are 60mm in diameter. I'm fairly sure they don't make an adapter/top that allows mounting a pump to the x4 version.


Dang, ok thanks.


----------



## Aenra

Any news on the new Phoenix? Performance-wise i mean?

Saw someone made a dedicated thread here, two pages long and already pics of a leaky model ^^

But on a serious note, if anyone has any info that i may have missed, do share.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Question for you EK experts. Can the EK-FC Terminals be used with different blocks/cards instead of identical ones? Or will things not line up? Could it be used with an EK-FC1070 GTX and this 290 EK/Visiontek block?


If the blocks are 3 point then yes the FC would work. But I believe that the 1070 block at least is a 2 point and therefore won't work with the FC terminal. Not sure of the 290 block since that was around about the same time the FC terminal was being used extensively. So if you're trying to connect them together, I doubt it would work unless you stick with a fitting based connection. If it lines up at all.










~Ceadder


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If the blocks are 3 point then yes the FC would work. But I believe that the 1070 block at least is a 2 point and therefore won't work with the FC terminal. Not sure of the 290 block since that was around about the same time the FC terminal was being used extensively. So if you're trying to connect them together, I doubt it would work unless you stick with a fitting based connection. If it lines up at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks for the reply. Can you explain further what 3 point/2 point means? Not sure I understand. Is that referring to the allen key bolts that connect the FC terminal to the waterblock? My 290X Lightning block uses 3 allen key bolts so I'd assume the other 290 EK blocks do as well. It looks like in the manual for the 1070 block it uses 3 allen key bolts as well(last page): https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109831489.pdf

I overlayed a picture of a reference 290x and 1070 block in Paint 3D and the inlet/outlet of the blocks seems to match up extremely close but it's hard to tell. They could be off by a few MM. I know it's extremely unorthodox to try something like this but I'm just trying to get my hands on any card I can for a decent price to mine with (backup rig is watercooled). Already picked up the Cryovenom 290 (comes with EK block) and have eyes on 1070's with EK blocks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes that's what I meant. 3 point or 2 point connection to the block.

I highly doubt that the 1070 block would line up with the 290x block however. You would likely have better results sticking to an AMD card to go with the 290 or a nVidia card to go with the 1070.









~Ceadder


----------



## Vlada011

3 Top ports on EKWB D5 Revo Glass PWM could be used as Inlet ports or not.
And is it possible to use in horizontal position or not.

I suppose if they have 3 ports they could be used as Inlet one of them.


----------



## khemist

They can be used as inlets but you must use a EK-AF 8mm extender and connect your fitting to that.

You can also use it horizontal yes.


----------



## trawetSluaP

Hi all,

Having a little difficulty with this.

I would like to mount a 360mm Rad onto the side mounted rad bracket inside the case and mount The D5 combo beside it, however, there isn't an actual mounting point on the bracket for the pump/res and wondered if your kind people have any suggestions I could try?

Just to clarify I don't want to mod the case or be drilling into it etc.

Thanks,
Paul


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Having a little difficulty with this.
> 
> I would like to mount a 360mm Rad onto the side mounted rad bracket inside the case and mount The D5 combo beside it, however, there isn't an actual mounting point on the bracket for the pump/res and wondered if your kind people have any suggestions I could try?
> 
> Just to clarify I don't want to mod the case or be drilling into it etc.
> 
> Thanks,
> Paul


Assume you are aware of the bracket they sell that mounts to a 120mm fan or its mounting? You can mount the pump/res to the rad with these...


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> Assume you are aware of the bracket they sell that mounts to a 120mm fan or its mounting? You can mount the pump/res to the rad with these...


Yes I am, was a bit worried that putting the pump in front of a fan would restrict airflow. Might see what it looks like using the bracket you mentioned on the middle shelf of the case.


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> They can be used as inlets but you must use a EK-AF 8mm extender and connect your fitting to that.
> 
> You can also use it horizontal yes.


You are sure.
Thanks because you remind me on extender.

What you think about compatibility between Alphacool Eiszapfen compression fittings and EKWB radiators D5 Revo and angled adapters.
They work nice. Only option to avoid big logos is to use EKWB adapters angled and Alphacool compression fittins, because Alphacool adapters have log and EKWB fittings.

It's time for first loop... it's not fair nice CPU-Mobo block to wait.


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> Yes I am, was a bit worried that putting the pump in front of a fan would restrict airflow. Might see what it looks like using the bracket you mentioned on the middle shelf of the case.


It stands off enough that I wouldn't worry about its impact on air-flow too much.


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> It stands off enough that I wouldn't worry about its impact on air-flow too much.


That's good to know, thank you.


----------



## Aenra

@geggeg read your Vardar EVO fans review at techpowerup; being used to how you do things at thermalbench, i was expecting a voltage vs pwm RPM curve which is sadly absent. Have you any insight on that? Assuming you tested it that is?

(if not, a personal request here to continue factoring that in the future; what with 99.9% of the controllers still regulating voltage, it can be very useful)

* edit: VSG won't need this, but to anyone thinking i'm asking for 'old school' stuff, a recent example would be the Silent Wings 3 fans' poor(er) PWM control. Personally, i'd never have known without someone testing this.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> @geggeg
> read your Vardar EVO fans review at techpowerup; being used to how you do things at thermalbench, i was expecting a voltage vs pwm RPM curve which is sadly absent. Have you any insight on that? Assuming you tested it that is?
> 
> (if not, a personal request here to continue factoring that in the future; what with 99.9% of the controllers still regulating voltage, it can be very useful)
> 
> * edit: VSG won't need this, but to anyone thinking i'm asking for 'old school' stuff, a recent example would be the Silent Wings 3 fans' poor(er) PWM control. Personally, i'd never have known without someone testing this.


I don't test PWM fans on voltage control, or vice versa. I only did it for some select fans that might have an issue running one way or the other (CORSAIR ML or be quiet! SW3 fans, for example). I stopped doing this after motherboards stopped using fake PWM, with nearly everyone adopting Intel PWM spec 1.2 or better (most are on revision 1.3 now) for multiple 4-pin headers. So I am not sure that 99.9% number still holds, but I am always up for a discussion on this


----------



## Cagarruto

Hi everyone,

I'm having some issues installing the Supremacy Evo backplate on my board (Asus Z370 ROG Maximus X Hero), I've already posted about this in the EKWB subforum, but I'm thinking that maybe asking here could be better since there seems to be more movement... this is the link to my original post, which includes a couple of crappy pictures to illustrate: http://www.overclock.net/t/1644653/supremacy-evo-115x-backplate-doesnt-fit-asus-z370-rog-maximus-x-hero

In short, I noticed that the rubber gasket overlaps some capacitors solder points rising it and avoiding it to lie flat on the board, which keeps the backplate too far from the board to properly secure it with the screws. I don't know exactly what to do with this, maybe trim the rubber gasket where the solder points are, but the problem is that some of them (the ones south of the socket) are also overlapped by the metal backplate itself, and I don't know if it would be safe to run it without the insulating rubber in-between...

Then again I could just ignore it, put the rubber thing on them, and try to put the screws anyway (which I already did, but I couldn't do it easily, and didn't want to push it too much, I'm afraid of breaking something if I do)...

Have any of you guys run into something similar with this block before? How did you deal with it? How should I? I want to build my computer, but I can't without installing the block (even temporarily, because I don't have any other LGA 1151 compatible cooler at hand right now).


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Flip the plate so the flattest part is facing up and won't conflict with anything


----------



## Cagarruto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> Flip the plate so the flattest part is facing up and won't conflict with anything


Are you sure that's a possibility? The manual says to mount it "RIBBED SIDE UP! (facing away from the motherboard)", capitalizing and everything, and the diagram shows to mount the backplate the way I did, so it seems like it's important to do so...


----------



## looniam

(insert "ribbed for" joke here)


----------



## Cagarruto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> (insert "ribbed for" joke here)


Hah, I've had to check what that was about... (to justify myself, I'll say I'm not a native english speaker)


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Do it as the manual states
Looks like the original back plate will be the spacer and it's not designed to be flat on the back of the board.
Intel boards come with a different system preinstalled









lol yeah ribbed for her pleasure


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am always up for a discussion on this


Thanks for replying 

- Agreed about mobo headers, only i wasn't referring to them; i purposefully used the term 'controllers', aka external ones. And barring Aquaeros, all others do voltage regulation. Still. After all these years. So considering we're talking custom loops here and as such an easy 12, 18, 24 (you name it) fans total? You can't split them in say a couple groups of 8/12, signal impedance; gets complicated, ergo a need for controllers, ergo my original request, since controllers seem stuck in early 2000.

(of course, to each their own, but you know)

- I can understand why you'd opt to go that route for 'select' fans already rumored to have issues; but you need look at it from the readers' perspective. How are they gonna know? By reading about it. So when more recent reviews stop focusing on curve variations, do they 'hope' the reviewer still cares/bothers? Assume that "if there was an issue, they'd tell me!", or do they keep looking elsewhere? For that missing graph?

(re 'hope': reminder here that often enough issues exist, but many reviews do not highlight them, lol)

I know it's extra work for you and obviously you'll do what you think is best. This is more about giving you a reader's perspective if you will.

Again, thanks for taking the time and thanks for all the work done over at thermalbench. You've been so helpful.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Thanks for replying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Agreed about mobo headers, only i wasn't referring to them; i purposefully used the term 'controllers', aka external ones. And barring Aquaeros, all others do voltage regulation. Still. After all these years.


As far as I can tell my Corsair Commander mini is doing PWM for 2x MCP50X pumps, 2x Cougar vortex fans, and 12x Phanteks PH-F120MP fans. The Phanteks are split up between two Swiftech PWM splitters. I assume the newer Commander PRO works just as well or better.


----------



## Aenra

Did you grasp what i'm saying and more importantly the reasoning behind it? 

Honest question.. i'm happy it works for you, only this isn't the kind of controller i'm talking about. You used it, and splitters, only so as to then plug it into your mobo/use dedicated software. Good for you if that works for you.

My posts are usually long enough as they are, i try economize; but to rephrase, i meant proper, external, 'independent' controllers. The ones with a display, lack of a need for mobo connection/software, etc etc.

* edit: since a derailing seems imminent, my point was about there still being a lot of people using 3pin controllers on proper PWM fans. Be it to their knowledge (that this can have side-effects) or not. Hence my original request to VSG.


----------



## becks

How do you guys manage topping out your loops ? It seems mine is really hungry as I have to add like 100 ml of liquid every 3-4 weeks.....
No leaks ANYWHERE! and everything is closed as sealed as possible...


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> How do you guys manage topping out your loops ? It seems mine is really hungry as I have to add like 100 ml of liquid every 3-4 weeks.....
> No leaks ANYWHERE! and everything is closed as sealed as possible...


The air must not be fully bled out of your loop yet.

I've had to top mine off twice since I set it up -- once after three days of running and bleeding it, and then once about two weeks later. Coming up on a year now.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> The air must not be fully bled out of your loop yet.
> 
> I've had to top mine off twice since I set it up -- once after three days of running and bleeding it, and then once about two weeks later. Coming up on a year now.


Let's hope its just that...
The loop has been running for about 5 months now...

Its just annoying as I do not have the Case on the desk and all of the sudden I see all my fans go 100%.... and that's like a real hurricane as all of them are Noctua ippp 3000








And when I check my water temp its all the way up to 43-46 C.... I panic for a sec, than check the water and the reservoir is at half with all my temp probes in the air...


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> How do you guys manage topping out your loops ? It seems mine is really hungry as I have to add like 100 ml of liquid every 3-4 weeks.....
> No leaks ANYWHERE! and everything is closed as sealed as possible...


Shouldn't have to fill it more than twice.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Did you grasp what i'm saying and more importantly the reasoning behind it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honest question.. i'm happy it works for you, only this isn't the kind of controller i'm talking about. You used _it_, _and_ splitters, only so as to _then_ plug it into your mobo/use dedicated software. Good for you if that works for you.
> My posts are usually long enough as they are, i try economize; but to rephrase, i meant proper, external, 'independent' controllers. The ones with a display, lack of a need for mobo connection/software, etc etc.
> 
> * edit: since a derailing seems imminent, my point was about there still being a lot of people using 3pin controllers on proper PWM fans. Be it to their knowledge (that this can have side-effects) or not. Hence my original request to VSG.


I think I am picking up what you are laying down. A few case manufacturers are including these now mounted in the case. The define r6 comes to mind as it's fresh from the reviewers and there are many others. Not showing favor here...just aging lol.

I think what you are saying is a hardware PWM extender is pro. One connection to mobo, preferable the CPU header, and whatever the CPU does will make all fans and even that D5 with pwm behave.

Right? No software to go wrong with an update. No firmware needing to be flashed etc. a windows update can't break a low level piece of hardware like that.

I should have taken back the Commander Pro instead of opening it last night and installing it lol. 65 bucks vs 18 bucks. But it can control flashy blindly lights...which I don't have ?


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> I think


I'm still not sure what you think; you give the appearance of one mixing irony with facts and personal opinion.. a petty combination if ever there was one, but i may be mistaken; cultural differences for example. Even if i was mistaken however, that still leaves out the part you fail to grasp, even now.

Be it or be it not to your liking/approval, there is still a boatload of people using voltage regulating controllers to power PWM fans. Said people would benefit from knowing which of those fans, if any, function "off spec" when driven by voltage. A very recent (and extremely popular) example being the Magnetic Levitation ones.

It's that simple. You complicated it by tellling everyone what -you- do and how, because -you- do it, everything is fine. Unrelated at best. Not everyone is you and more to the point, it was pretty obvious the matter of discussion did not relate to what you do. Being that you do -not- use such a controller.

I could go on but if you still don't grasp it.. regardless, a good evening to you.

Let's stick to EK EVO fans and a reader's wondering how they function with voltage shall we


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> I'm still not sure what you think; you give the appearance of one mixing irony with facts and personal opinion.. a petty combination if ever there was one, but i may be mistaken; cultural differences for example. Even if i was mistaken however, that still leaves out the part you fail to grasp, even now.
> 
> Be it or be it not to your liking/approval, there is still a boatload of people using voltage regulating controllers to power PWM fans. Said people would benefit from knowing which of those fans, if any, function "off spec" when driven by voltage. A very recent (and extremely popular) example being the Magnetic Levitation ones.
> It's that simple. You complicated it by tellling everyone what -you- do and how, because -you- do it, everything is fine. Unrelated at best. Not everyone is you and more to the point, it was pretty obvious the matter of discussion did not relate to what you do. Being that you do -not- use such a controller.
> 
> I could go on but if you still don't grasp it.. regardless, a good evening to you.
> Let's stick to EK EVO fans and a reader's wondering how they function with voltage shall we


wow..

is everyone on the internet these days in a super pissy mood?

I was saying that you get more control from a hardware device, as you stated and then, in a round about fashion, typed like I was an idiot. You get a pass. Everyone has to be egotastically superior with their knowledge on here. Just dont gotta go around pointing out the fact that you are better than everyone.









Anyways, I agreed with you in what you were saying about the PWM controller. I stated that I just purchased a CLCP and could have saved money by doing getting a PWM controller as I do not have lights on it...almost a waste of money.

And its barely afternoon here.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Shouldn't have to fill it more than twice.


This is the 4th time....

And bubbles might be the explanation as whenever it happens...it happens all of the sudden (Temp Spikes) and is not something that goes gradually...

Will definitely keep an eye on it now..


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yep rad's have a lot of space in them plenty of room for air
Tilting the case 90 degrees every which way is the only way I've found to get rid of any bubbles
Could also be a weak pump no telling.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> Yep rad's have a lot of space in them plenty of room for air
> Tilting the case 90 degrees every which way is the only way I've found to get rid of any bubbles
> Could also be a weak pump no telling.


Changing pump speed up and down can help with air bubbles too, after filling my loop I tend to leave pump speed at 100% for a few days to get most of the air out


----------



## IT Diva

Now that we've made it into a new year, and hopefully everyone at EK is back to work . . .

I thought I'd ask @akira749 if there's going to be a block specifically for the Asus Strix Z370I, mini itx board

I know the Z270I block seems to fit, except for the Z370 inductors are lower, so don't have any contact, but was hoping that an exact block might be forthcoming . . . . . .

Doesn't seem like it would be too much effort, since everything else is the same as the Z270.


----------



## Nikos86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I just finished my Northern Lights build!
> 
> X99 / Dual Titan X / Phanteks Enthoo Luxe (modded to accept the rads setup) / 420mm on top / 360mm in front
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pictures in the build log : Northern Lights (Phanteks Enthoo Luxe)


Hi @akira749,

I am looking at putting an EK 420 CE or SE at the top of my luxe tempered glass. You mention needing to mod for your rads.

Were your mods for the front section only?
Do you think I can fit either of these 420's in nicely, if my fans go on top in a pull configuration in the section designed for them?

Thanks.


----------



## Danman980

Hi guys,

This is my first post here . I'd been cleaning my EK-FC 980TF5 blocks for the first time and I've found a weeping leak under the brushed metal plate.
The plate has 2 o rings under it and the block still had the EK tested sticker on it.
I'd been having really slow water level drops in my loop as well and since this leak was so slow it was evaporating before it could be seen.
What I'm not sure of is what to do next. I've cleaned the block and its ready to reassemble. Do I try to get thicker o rings or use some kind of o ring lube or sealant .
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Cheers Dan ?


----------



## DarthBaggins

New goodies for Project Gray Scale:


----------



## Danman980

Just for now I've reassembled the leaking GPU water block and I've capped the ports apart from one and hooked up an air pressure test gauge to see how it holds now.
Fingers crossed!

I will test my other GPU as well before I put them back in the rig.

Cheers, Dan .


----------



## Danman980

Well the air test proved what I thought would happen.

A slow leak. Gunna see if I can get hold of some new o rings I guess.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danman980*
> 
> Well the air test proved what I thought would happen.
> 
> A slow leak. Gunna see if I can get hold of some new o rings I guess.


Dan,

You might put a little bit on silicone grease on them them and then tighten the plate slowly and incrementally. I use roughly an expanding "X" pattern over each o ring with a pinch more at the outside of the X before tightening the next increment from the inside out.

Less than a rice grain sized bit on your fingers, you just want to get them shiny black, . . not greasy feeling or gooey

If it wasn't tightened properly, the o ring can squirrel out away from where it was tightened down too much first, and then bunch up under the remaining areas so they can't then squirrel the o ring back under the first area, and then later that's where it starts to leak from.


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You might put a little bit on silicone grease on them them and then tighten the plate slowly and incrementally....


I was about to suggest the same. I used silicone grease on all. It seems the same concept of TIM, the grease fills the gaps. Although the purpose is different.


----------



## Danman980

Hey thanks Darlene and svx94.
I'd been trying to find out how to get new o rings etc but I'll try your idea first.
I think it's just a bad design buy EK using a thin metal plate to seal 2 oval o rings with wide spaced fasteners and nothing to spread the load out like washers or something like that.
On the flip side I'm glad I found out now before it had the chance to kill my X99 mobo and other parts.

Cheers Dan
Anyway thanks again guys your help is much appreciated. ????


----------



## stephenn82

If you can and want...this stuff is good and cheap. Many many uses, even automotive...or paintball, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XBH9HI


----------



## Danman980

Hey guys thanks for the help with the O ring sealing issues.

I got GPU block 1 tested its been holding air at 10psi for about 17 hours now so I'd call that one sealed.

On to GPU block 2 now we'll see how we go on this one cos this one had the leak in it .. fingers crossed..

Cheers Dan


----------



## Vlada011

How many of you guys use EKWB X-RES D5 Revo 140/100 Glass PWM?
And are you satisfied with them? Smaller 100 version look fine for my PC.
I would rather to use one of three ports for Inlet and maybe other two later I could use as LED Plug.

But I don't see many people to go on glass version and she look nicer.
Guys here confirmed me I could use in horizontal or vertial position with AF Extender 8mm M-F If I want top port for Inlet.
I would keep top port as Inlet and later bottom Inlet port to serve as drain port with valve.

And these new EKWB Clear Tubes 13/10mm are available now, no any more Primochill Advanced.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
It's the prepackaged pmw pump combo "not the glass" that comes with the 280 performance
Yeah it's good and it can be installed horizontally


I just use ek premix fluid.


----------



## Aenra

To help as much as my limited knowledge allows:

To Vlada:

- The issue with smaller reservoirs is that filling up becomes a bit more complicated, that's all. If you don't mind that, by all means go for it. Just make sure you have the pump set up so that you can turn it off fast enough 

- As to the 'glass' reservoir/pump combo variant, that comes with caveats. You cannot unscrew the top like you would with an acrylic, if you did that the glass would fall off! The only thing securing the glass tube in place are two o-rings, bottom and top. The 'pressure' to keep it steady is applied from the actual top, screwed as it is to the central tube of the res. Put differently, there are no grooves on the glass itself, it does not screw anywhere. Now this isn't an issue, it's why i said caveats, depends on what your setup/needs are. But if you want an opinion? You want to do proper glass/quality, check Aqua Computer, not EK.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> I'm still not sure what you think; you give the appearance of one mixing irony with facts and personal opinion.. a petty combination if ever there was one, but i may be mistaken; cultural differences for example. Even if i was mistaken however, that still leaves out the part you fail to grasp, even now.
> 
> Be it or be it not to your liking/approval, there is still a boatload of people using voltage regulating controllers to power PWM fans. Said people would benefit from knowing which of those fans, if any, function "off spec" when driven by voltage. A very recent (and extremely popular) example being the Magnetic Levitation ones.
> It's that simple. You complicated it by tellling everyone what -you- do and how, because -you- do it, everything is fine. Unrelated at best. Not everyone is you and more to the point, it was pretty obvious the matter of discussion did not relate to what you do. Being that you do -not- use such a controller.
> 
> I could go on but if you still don't grasp it.. regardless, a good evening to you.
> Let's stick to EK EVO fans and a reader's wondering how they function with voltage shall we


I don't think there really is a lot of people using voltage controllers on PWM fans.
Voltage controlled fans are still available and PWM fans will normally have a reduced range of control when voltage is used.

It seems a fairly unusual circumstance these days. Also some manufacturers have claimed that using voltage to control a PWM circuit can cause damage, whether that is strictly true?


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> I don't think there really is a lot of people using voltage controllers on PWM fans
> ...
> using voltage to control a PWM circuit can cause damage


Thanks for replying in a civilized manner for starters.

- There are a lot of people using those still.. in scores in fact. Check each and every company out there manufacturing fan controllers (again, we're not talking 'internal' ones, we're talking the 5.25 slot inserted, independent display variety). Each and every one of them is doing its job by regulating the 12v, 3 pinned, no pulse recognition. Sole exception being Aqua Computer's, unless i'm missing someone? Again, talking true pulse control here. Now obviously criticism is allowed and to each their own as to why over a decade later that is still the case, but it is. They wouldn't be still selling them if no one bought them now would they?

One may opt to go that way for a number of reasons.. cable mess (not talking aesthetics here, am talking actual mess, volume, spacing, length, etc), number of fans total, or more pertinent to our hobby, number of rads. While i could envision a system where say 9 or 12 fans are controlled as one, i fail to see why i'd ever want that. Ideally, each rad fan set should be controlled indepentently of the others. Could go on with yet more reasons such controllers are still very relevant.

(every niche community has this, occasionally the odd poster forgets to look at the broader picture; not a critique this, am only reminding here; that for example when something has been known to "work" for a decade now, aka a 3pin controller driving a PWM fan, why would a customer abruptly change his ways now; that for example even the 'serious' companies as 'gamerz' call them advertise their 3pinned controllers as PWM ones)

- You could cause damage, yeah. But that's in theory; in practice, it depends on the tech itself. Some select new ones (and i do mean new ones, barring a couple of exceptions here too we're stuck in 2000) can indeed face issues and/or be burnt. Most cases though, it's simply a matter of scaling. You could be driving it at 2/3 of its amperage and barely get 50% rpm, since it's made for pulse regulation. Inversely, exceptional quality fans such as the Silent Wings 3 Ultra may occasionally scale horribly with pulse control but perfectly fine with voltage. Another recent example i just stumbled over (the Aquaero thread) mentions certain EK fans as scaling poorly when driven through pulse, aka better to run them with voltage; unverified this last, but goes to show nonetheless.

So hopefully, you now see my point. I'll admit i'm disappointed, @geggeg hasn't even responded to my original post. Would have prefered a 'no' from utter silence


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> It's the prepackaged pmw pump combo "not the glass" that comes with the 280 performance
> Yeah it's good and it can be installed horizontally
> 
> 
> I just just ek premix fluid.


Now I don't know wha to do, Glass vs Acrylic.
If normal version could be mount in any position that mean and for Glass.
I hope EKWB Support will involve to correct if we make mistake somewhere.
Glass is nicer if you ask me. But they have different mechanism for bubble and air.
And Normal version need different top for inltet and inner tube and that's extra cost.
EKWB say..

_As with other Revo D5 series products, Glass variant features a fully rounded design thus offering greater usability, allowing installation at any angle within 360° of rotatio_n

Normal


Glass


First I thought to Fittings and Tubes order from different sites, example Primochill FlexSX Silver Nickel or fittings or Alphacool Eiszapfen but 99% I will order everything from EKWB because shipping cost. EKWB Logo I don't like but 2x 4 pack exactly fit me in my needs... First I will need 6 and later 8.
Primochill and Bitspower cost more, they would cost me almost double as EKWB or Alphacool.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Only real thing is glass is very unlikely to ever change colors
Plastic there is always a chance of turning yellowish or staining.

The last part was supposed to say
I just use ek premix fluids lol


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> Only real thing is glass is very unlikely to ever change colors
> Plastic there is always a chance of turning yellowish or staining.
> 
> The last part was supposed to say
> I just use ek premix fluids lol


Off course EKWB CryoFuel Clear Premixes 900ml.
I think 2 bottles will be fine. And 5l destilled water to clean radiator, wash waterblock inside, etc...
First I will use Clear fluid with clear tubes, maybe I later put little red color but not on begining.

8 fittings, 2x 45 angled revolvable adapters for monoblock, 1x AF 8mm M-F extender, 1x M-M extender unknown size + drain valve (on inlet port)
1x CSQ plug for end of drain valve. I think I don;t need any more Plugs. Maybe I should use one spliter. It would be nice later to add Plug with temp sensor on some place. Best place for that is before radiator maybe or outler port on pump. Later I will think about that, first basic things.

Pump will be on lowest spot for now. What is wrong, I think everything is fine.


----------



## emsj86

Both will work fine. I’d go with the glass as it has the three port top allowing for filling and routing of the tubing to he top if you so like.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Can't you piece together the res and top/bottom combo?

TCO


----------



## pc-illiterate

@Aeran I like when people voltage control their pwm fans. It makes me smile because they wear out before they should. It causes issues they wouldn't have had they bought the right fans. I don't see where you think you can basically _order_ VSG to change how and what he reviews. If people want to use the internet to search for info about pwm use like you suggest, they won't find the info they want. If they research voltage controlling pwm fans at all, they will find it shouldn't be done. PWM fans are for PWM control. Voltage control is for *non*-PWM fans. It's pretty simple.

I would also like to see some examples of companies selling 3 pin fans as pwm. Proof or it didn't happen.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Can't you piece together the res and top/bottom combo?
> 
> TCO


I wish they would just sell the glass tubing as an upgrade option to existing plexi res combos, I'd be all over that.


----------



## Danman980

Just thought I'd put a quick reply post here for IT Diva and svx94 for helping me out with my O ring sealing issues.

Thanks a lot that little bit of info saved a lot of faffing about to fix I've sent you guys a + rep each.

Best of all the GPU block that was leaking is now sealed it's been holding 10psi for 18hrs now so that's a win!!

Cheers, Dan ???


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> It makes me smile because they wear out
> 
> Proof or it didn't happen


Not particularly certain about what kind of people you think you can engage in a (proper) conversation with this manner. Not me though.

Since however you mentioned another poster, no; i cannot "order" anyone to do anything; nor am i trying to. While it appears to have escaped you, this was an attempt to showcase usage scenarios (i even mention models that are problematic) that still apply.

What a reviewer does is up to the reviewer. Just as it's up to the reader to value his work in accordance with depth his review provies.

To quote your own words, pretty simple. And yet it escaped you.


----------



## ThrashZone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> I wish they would just sell the glass tubing as an upgrade option to existing plexi res combos, I'd be all over that.


Hi,
Hard to sell all types of kits or even custom accessorized kits
Kits are already trying to hit a price market where every dollar adds up pretty fast
Not a bad thing to have spare parts especially when glass is involved
Glass breaks


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> Hard to sell all types of kits or even custom accessorized kits
> Kits are already trying to hit a price market where every dollar adds up pretty fast
> Not a bad thing to have spare parts especially when glass is involved
> Glass breaks


EK seems fairly selective over what spare parts they offer. I've been able to get replacement o-rings, monoblock tops and pump tops (for a premium), but wouldn't offer the pump/res combo top or other things, like the glass tube situation for instance. I'm sure it just comes down to money as usual.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Not particularly certain about what kind of people you think you can engage in a (proper) conversation with this manner. Not me though.
> Since however you mentioned another poster, no; i cannot "order" anyone to do anything; nor am i trying to. While it appears to have escaped you, this was an attempt to showcase usage scenarios (i even _mention_ models that are problematic) that still apply.
> What a reviewer does is up to the reviewer. Just as it's up to the reader to value his work in accordance with depth his review provies.
> 
> To quote your own words, pretty simple. And yet it escaped you.


You don't seem to understand. I don't care about you and your feelings. If you want people to care about your feelings, the internet is the wrong place for you to engage and interact with people. I put what I have to say out there. No mincing words. No softening words. I'm blunt and to the point. There is no other reason to be any other way.
You are trying to order VSG to review them how *you* seem fit. You keep insisting over and over that he do what you say because *you* feel it's necessary for those that use a product the way it is *not* intended to be used.
Nothing escaped me but it certainly got past you. You don't seem to understand what anyone is telling you. This response of yours is proof alone.


----------



## trawetSluaP

Lets keep it civil guys.

To be fair I've been caught out.

I have been using the "PWM" Fan Hubs that came with my case and have realised they aren't controlling the fans through PWM, they're controlling them with voltage. Pretty crappy from Phanteks if you ask me.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> Lets keep it civil guys.
> 
> To be fair I've been caught out.
> 
> I have been using the "PWM" Fan Hubs that came with my case and have realised they aren't controlling the fans through PWM, they're controlling them with voltage. Pretty crappy from Phanteks if you ask me.


Pretty sure the one I use is true PWM controlled, if you're looking for a replacement:

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> Lets keep it civil guys.
> 
> To be fair I've been caught out.
> 
> I have been using the "PWM" Fan Hubs that came with my case and have realised they aren't controlling the fans through PWM, they're controlling them with voltage. Pretty crappy from Phanteks if you ask me.


I'm guessing you got 1 of the original hubs. Someone else was talking about it being a big 'screw you' from phanteks.


----------



## trawetSluaP

Yup, two came with the case. Seems to be a little ironic to call it a PWM Hub...

Have ordered some replacements that are proper PWM Hubs!


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> Lets keep it civil guys


Why the plural? In a two-man conversation, did you see me insult anyone? Incite even? You're just being diplomatic am guessing, right? Heavens forbid we express a clear opinion or target a comment on someone specific.

Anyway ^^

To get back to topic, since the particular bit got lost among many others, you may disregard the EK fan potential issue another user reported. Turns out it was a splitter thing, not a fan one.

All good on the EVO front 

( details here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/11330#post_26534825 )


----------



## Nikos86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> Lets keep it civil guys.
> 
> To be fair I've been caught out.
> 
> I have been using the "PWM" Fan Hubs that came with my case and have realised they aren't controlling the fans through PWM, they're controlling them with voltage. Pretty crappy from Phanteks if you ask me.


Woh woh woh, hold up ... are you saying that the "PWM hub" which Phanteks include with their cases isn't actually controlling using PWM?

It will be good to know since I have my motherboards PWM hub sitting in a box ...

(holy crap ... and I call myself an enthusiast ...)


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nikos86*
> 
> Woh woh woh, hold up ... are you saying that the "PWM hub" which Phanteks include with their cases isn't actually controlling using PWM?
> 
> It will be good to know since I have my motherboards PWM hub sitting in a box ...
> 
> (holy crap ... and I call myself an enthusiast ...)


Unfortunately not. Was really disappointed myself when I realised.

I'm using bequiet! Silent Wings 3 fans, and for example the 140mm PWM versions will run at 400RPM at 20% plugged into my motherboard. Plugged into the "PWM" Hub the same fan at the same percentage runs at 800RPM.


----------



## Ricwin

Some fan controllers are advertised by sellers as PWM when infact they are only compatible with 4 pin PWM fans, rather than actually controlling fan speed via PWM.
The NZXT Grid for example controls all fans by varying power even though it can accommodate both 3 pin and 4 pin.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Off course EKWB CryoFuel Clear Premixes 900ml.
> I think 2 bottles will be fine. And 5l destilled water to clean radiator, wash waterblock inside, etc...
> First I will use Clear fluid with clear tubes, maybe I later put little red color but not on begining.
> 
> 8 fittings, 2x 45 angled revolvable adapters for monoblock, 1x AF 8mm M-F extender, 1x M-M extender unknown size + drain valve (on inlet port)
> 1x CSQ plug for end of drain valve. I think I don;t need any more Plugs. Maybe I should use one spliter. It would be nice later to add Plug with temp sensor on some place. Best place for that is before radiator maybe or outler port on pump. Later I will think about that, first basic things.
> 
> Pump will be on lowest spot for now. What is wrong, I think everything is fine.


The fitting you need for top inlet port is not the 8mm one its called a socket extender and its specially designed for the recessed ports. The 8mm M-F fitting is too wide to fit and seal correctly.

This
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-nickel
Not This
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-csq-extender-8mm-g1-4-nickel

I would have thought they might include one with the res like they do with others but maybe not, and it looks like you will need three of them anyway,


----------



## jonny27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> Unfortunately not. Was really disappointed myself when I realised.
> 
> I'm using bequiet! Silent Wings 3 fans, and for example the 140mm PWM versions will run at 400RPM at 20% plugged into my motherboard. Plugged into the "PWM" Hub the same fan at the same percentage runs at 800RPM.


Unless Phanteks released another hub I'm not aware of, all of their hubs use a source PWM signal to have some degree of voltage control on 3 pin fans. That is the point of them, not use PWM fans on it, for that you use a true PWM hub, like the Silverstone or Swiftech ones.


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonny27*
> 
> Unless Phanteks released another hub I'm not aware of, all of their hubs use a source PWM signal to have some degree of voltage control on 3 pin fans. That is the point of them, not use PWM fans on it, for that you use a true PWM hub, like the Silverstone or Swiftech ones.


Yup, lesson learnt the hard way. I have order some of the Swiftech Hubs for true PWM control.


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> The fitting you need for top inlet port is not the 8mm one its called a socket extender and its specially designed for the recessed ports. The 8mm M-F fitting is too wide to fit and seal correctly.
> 
> This
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-nickel
> Not This
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-csq-extender-8mm-g1-4-nickel
> 
> I would have thought they might include one with the res like they do with others but maybe not, and it looks like you will need three of them anyway,


Thank you on information... What you think about this.
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-extender-g1-4-nickel

This is EK TIP from Manual

*TIP:
If INLET port is chosen to be on reservoir top part, install EK Extender G1/4 before installing EK-ACF or EK-HDC fitting.*


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Thank you on information... What you think about this.
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-extender-g1-4-nickel
> 
> This is EK TIP from Manual
> 
> *TIP:
> If INLET port is chosen to be on reservoir top part, install EK Extender G1/4 before installing EK-ACF or EK-HDC fitting.*


Yes those ones work too. The socket fittings are just the newer version of the same thing available in more finishes. You can see in the link it is only 16.75mm wide, just like the base of the socket fitting so they can both fit inside the recessed ports. just about all other ordinary fittings are wider and will not fit. For example the 8mm M-F and the other static extenders are 18.8mm wide.

Socket fitting


The socket fittings are narrow enough to fit inside and the wider 20mm top section fits over the top of the port recess.The fittings you linked are just narrower all over and don't look quite as neat in the port recesses. They used to come with rads and other items with recessed ports but the Socket fittings replaced them, especially on all the current EK rads.


----------



## Vlada011

Thank you, that information are really important.
Because I make list with serial numbers of stuff and now will change on EK Extender Socket G1/4.

What you think is it worth to buy Primochill FlexSX fittings Nickel ot Bitspower or Alphacool Eiszapfen not old Alphacool instead EKWB ACF.
Because all of them are without logo. Is it visible quality between these fittings.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Thank you, that information are really important.
> Because I make list with serial numbers of stuff and now will change on EK Extender Socket G1/4.
> 
> What you think is it worth to buy Primochill FlexSX fittings Nickel ot Bitspower or Alphacool Eiszapfen not old Alphacool instead EKWB ACF.
> Because all of them are without logo. Is it visible quality between these fittings.


In my experience fittings are fittings and they all work more or less the same. The only difference is the quality of the finish and whether they make all the fittings you will need in the same matching finish. Different brands can have different shades of nickel, black nickel and silver.
Cheap fittings can have a rough appearance.
Some Alphacool fittings I handled seemed very cheaply made a bit like the Euro version of XSPC but I haven't seen any newer ones.
Once in the case you won't be able to tell, its only when looking close up you can see the difference.

I prefer ones without silly logos everywhere too which is why I like simple C48 push fittings and even EK's fairly minimalist HDC fittings for my hard tube.

Remember you will need an extension for each recessed port you use.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> What you think is it worth to buy Primochill FlexSX fittings Nickel ot Bitspower or Alphacool Eiszapfen not old Alphacool instead EKWB ACF.


I've used EK-ACF fittings on my last five builds, and only had one fitting with a problem. I buy new each time, so that's a lot of fittings. On the one problem fitting, the compression ring was out of true and wouldn't tighten. I had extras so I just used a different one. I would recommend EK-ACF fittings to anyone.

For my new build coming next month, I am deliberately going away from my comfort zone for most parts. I typically use EVGA GPUs, Asus mainboards, and EK for almost all cooling. This time I'm trying to use other brands for most stuff just for a different experience. I'm going with Bitspower for monoblock and fittings, Hardware Labs for rads, EK for fans (never used Vardars before), MSI for mainboard, and either MSI or Nvidia for GPU (depending on whether I go with 1080 Ti or Titan Xp).


----------



## Vlada011

I not, I can't separate from ASUS BIOS. He have some very important stuff and they used me in past and saved me few times and I can't without them.
Most important is BIOS Theme, Many Settings, Flashback BIOS, Secure Erase SSD with BIOS, Safe Boot if OC fail to Boot in BIOS and allow me to back working settings and Retry Button.

I don't want to learn other names of same things, to research, to look, ROG and fine.
I tried hard to stay with boards class Extreme, Formula or Apex now, off course and best AMD motherboard of all time is ROG Zenith Extreme.
That's only AMD motherboard class Rampage Extreme.

EKWB Fittings are cheaper and I save little money becasue I don't need to order fittings from other site.
That's advantage. But Alphacool and Primochill shine nicer somehow. I'm sure EKWB will launch new series soon, but I can't wait.
I need 4pack+4pack, with 4pack+6pack I have 2 reserve. But until summer and Volta I will need only 6.


----------



## Aenra

@akira749 My apologies in advance for my incredible Paint skills ^^

Please forward this and see if you can get these 4 distances (360 Phoenix rad module) measured for us? Would be really appreciated.



Again, my apologies for the caveman sketching.


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> ...For my new build coming next month, I am deliberately going away from my comfort zone for most parts. I typically use EVGA GPUs, Asus mainboards, and EK for almost all cooling. This time I'm trying to use other brands for most stuff just for a different experience. I'm going with Bitspower for monoblock and fittings, Hardware Labs for rads, EK for fans (never used Vardars before), MSI for mainboard, and either MSI or Nvidia for GPU (depending on whether I go with 1080 Ti or Titan Xp).


Suggest to add Gigabyte GPU in the list. The Aorus WB cards are very nice, especially if you plan to use VR. I think water cool the GPU bring the best value out of your cooling investment.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> @akira749
> My apologies in advance for my incredible Paint skills ^^
> Please forward this and see if you can get these 4 distances (360 Phoenix rad module) measured for us? Would be really appreciated.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, my apologies for the caveman sketching.


Is @akira749 even still around . . .

Have not seen a post here in at least a month or so.

Wonder if the shakeup at EK trickled down to the forum reps?


----------



## Vlada011

Guys what is better for Ball Vavle place.
Inlet port on XRES Revo D5 Glass or Outlet Port separate with T Spliters examle.


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Is @akira749 even still around . . .
> 
> Have not seen a post here in at least a month or so.
> 
> Wonder if the shakeup at EK trickled down to the forum reps?


Thank you for bringing that up (+rep), i hadn't noticed, no. Would have expected some form of an announcement, but i can understand the silent route 

If you have any further info, do please PM? Curious.

Will email my Botticelli creation to EK support, see if i can get a reply.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Is @akira749 even still around . . .
> 
> Have not seen a post here in at least a month or so.
> 
> Wonder if the shakeup at EK trickled down to the forum reps?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for bringing that up (+rep), i hadn't noticed, no. Would have expected some form of an announcement, but i can understand the silent route
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have any further info, do please PM? Curious.
> 
> Will email my Botticelli creation to EK support, see if i can get a reply.
Click to expand...

No new or inside info here, . . . .

I'm just still wanting to know if EK has plans to make a monoblock for the Strix Z370 that fits exactly to the lower profile inductors.

The Z270 block fits except it leaves a gap over the inductors.

It's one of those cases where if a new block is coming, I can wait, but if not, then I'll get the 270 block and just live with it.


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm just still wanting to know


I saw your original query, back then.. thought you'd have had a reply by now :S

Guess you could email them? Won't hurt; well, unless you've tried that already that is?


----------



## Danman980

How many of you guys have had issues with o rings in EK supremacy evo water blocks. I've just had to replace the original seal in my block as it was leaking. When I removed it , it looks like the seal is breaking down and leaving bits of itself stuck to the copper plate.


----------



## akira749

Sorry for the delay. I'm back after an extended holiday period.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Now that we've made it into a new year, and hopefully everyone at EK is back to work . . .
> 
> I thought I'd ask @akira749 if there's going to be a block specifically for the Asus Strix Z370I, mini itx board
> 
> I know the Z270I block seems to fit, except for the Z370 inductors are lower, so don't have any contact, but was hoping that an exact block might be forthcoming . . . . . .
> 
> Doesn't seem like it would be too much effort, since everything else is the same as the Z270.


I don't think we'll have a specific block for the Z370 version but I will ask and let you know.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nikos86*
> 
> Hi @akira749,
> 
> I am looking at putting an EK 420 CE or SE at the top of my luxe tempered glass. You mention needing to mod for your rads.
> 
> Were your mods for the front section only?
> Do you think I can fit either of these 420's in nicely, if my fans go on top in a pull configuration in the section designed for them?
> 
> Thanks.


I had to modify the top as well but it was because the Hardware Labs are wider. You should be fine with the EK's.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danman980*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> This is my first post here . I'd been cleaning my EK-FC 980TF5 blocks for the first time and I've found a weeping leak under the brushed metal plate.
> The plate has 2 o rings under it and the block still had the EK tested sticker on it.
> I'd been having really slow water level drops in my loop as well and since this leak was so slow it was evaporating before it could be seen.
> What I'm not sure of is what to do next. I've cleaned the block and its ready to reassemble. Do I try to get thicker o rings or use some kind of o ring lube or sealant .
> Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
> 
> Cheers Dan ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danman980*
> 
> Just for now I've reassembled the leaking GPU water block and I've capped the ports apart from one and hooked up an air pressure test gauge to see how it holds now.
> Fingers crossed!
> 
> I will test my other GPU as well before I put them back in the rig.
> 
> Cheers, Dan .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danman980*
> 
> Well the air test proved what I thought would happen.
> 
> A slow leak. Gunna see if I can get hold of some new o rings I guess.


Sorry about that. I see that you now have fixed your leak but, if it happens again, open a ticket on our website (https://www.ekwb.com/customer-care/) and we'll send you replacement parts. Also, the presence of the stainless plate isn't based on a simple look design but it's the only way we had to be able to "jump" over the capacitors on the card. Other manufacturers usually end up create a very thick block when they are in presence of this situation and we didn't wanted to go this route.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> @akira749
> My apologies in advance for my incredible Paint skills ^^
> Please forward this and see if you can get these 4 distances (360 Phoenix rad module) measured for us? Would be really appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, my apologies for the caveman sketching.


Did you sent your image to our support team? If you didn't, let me know and I will send it and ask them for the dimensions.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Is @akira749 even still around . . .
> 
> Have not seen a post here in at least a month or so.
> 
> Wonder if the shakeup at EK trickled down to the forum reps?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Thank you for bringing that up (+rep), i hadn't noticed, no. Would have expected some form of an announcement, but i can understand the silent route
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have any further info, do please PM? Curious.
> 
> Will email my Botticelli creation to EK support, see if i can get a reply.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> No new or inside info here, . . . .
> 
> I'm just still wanting to know if EK has plans to make a monoblock for the Strix Z370 that fits exactly to the lower profile inductors.
> 
> The Z270 block fits except it leaves a gap over the inductors.
> 
> It's one of those cases where if a new block is coming, I can wait, but if not, then I'll get the 270 block and just live with it.


I'm still here







I was just on an extended holiday break


----------



## IT Diva

Good to see you back


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Good to see you back


It's good to be back too. Vacations are nice but we have to go back to reality too sometimes


----------



## Danman980

@akira749

Thanks for the concern , being in Australia sometimes means having to fix things yourself to save huge shipping costs and long wait times for freight etc. IT Diva gave me a few tips to help get the blocks sealed correctly.
At the moment I'm testing my supremacy evo water block with a locally supplied seal as the EK part was going to cost me about $40 with shipping from EKWB webshop for a $2 o ring. I ended up getting 4 to try from the local industrial supply shop for $5

Cheers Dan ??


----------



## frankieskiller

Howdy!

I was looking into a couple options for cooling and wanted to get some opinions. I'm looking at either getting the EK Kit x360 or a custom job through the EK configuration process. Would the custom cooler outperform the kit or would the differences be negligible?

Thanks!


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankieskiller*
> 
> Howdy!
> 
> I was looking into a couple options for cooling and wanted to get some opinions. I'm looking at either getting the EK Kit x360 or a custom job through the EK configuration process. Would the custom cooler outperform the kit or would the differences be negligible?
> 
> Thanks!


EK kit uses the SAME components, thus there is no reason to believe any difference. I also don't care about the EK configurator. It should be seen as a sales tool. It recommend me to go 2 360 rads for CPU+GPU, where the p360 kit did a fine job with 1, and the temp is not even reach 40d C. My personal advice for custom loop is to focus on airflow that is responsible for RAM/VRM/M.2/PCH cooling. Because the water cooling component won't be your problems.

A chain is only as strong as its weakest link.

The kit is a better deal cost wise. You will spend more a la cart. The only issue I have with X360 is the pump. I do prefer D5.


----------



## frankieskiller

Cool. I've got my 7980xe (delided) running stable @ 4.4ghz with a Corsair h115i cooler running at only 55%. I think if I get the EK x360 and work on the airflow in my case I can easily go higher.

Thanks for the info!


----------



## Danman980

Good news my supremacy evo water block is all sealed up . The replacement o ring is a 57mm x 2mm general purpose unit. Hopefully that might help someone with any evo water block leaks.

Cheers Dan ??


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankieskiller*
> 
> Cool. I've got my 7980xe (delided) running stable @ 4.4ghz with a Corsair h115i cooler running at only 55%. I think if I get the EK x360 and work on the airflow in my case I can easily go higher.
> 
> Thanks for the info!


I'm running a 7980xe on a 360xe push/pull @4.5 with comfortable temps and fan speeds. Using a monoblock so the vrm isn't an issue. If you don't, it will be. So without VRM under water you'll need very good VRM airflow. Dual loop, one 360 dedicated to the cpu the other to sli 1080ti. Similar peak wattage to dissipate for both.

The H115i has about 1/2 the capability of the 360xe push/pull on paper so it makes me wonder if you are seeing some VRM/power throttling to run at slow speeds now? It is really, for better or for worse, subtle and effective in its reduction of heat production, but without an obvious indication of a loss of performance you might not go looking for it.


----------



## akira749

@IT Diva, I got a reply regarding the possibility of having a specific version for the Z370I board and the answer is no. The Z270I monoblock will stay the official one for the Z370I...we indeed addressed the issue regarding the LED strip so it can work on the Z370 board but that's it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> @IT Diva, I got a reply regarding the possibility of having a specific version for the Z370I board and the answer is no. The Z270I monoblock will stay the official one for the Z370I...we indeed addressed the issue regarding the LED strip so it can work on the Z370 board but that's it.


Thanks,

I'll just have to wait until they come back in stock at PPC's.

I need one for my TriStellar build as the Z370i Strix is already here.


----------



## KCDC

@akira749

Any word on when the 1080ti FE WB front fascia gets the LED treatment? Welcome back!


----------



## Vlada011

Guys is it hard to clean watercooling parts, reservoir, pump, waterblocks from coolant. EK CryoFuel Premixed Red example.


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Guys is it hard to clean watercooling parts, reservoir, pump, waterblocks from coolant. EK CryoFuel Premixed Red example.


The hard part is getting to all the surfaces and then not damaging them depending on what they are. Plated copper can be very thin so if you try too hard to rub off stains, you find you are rubbing off the plating.

Dies stain. That's what they do. As time goes on, I grow less and less inclined to even consider them as after a year it seems every super-fluid turns out to be problematic. Primo-Chill's Vue for example appears to be "cleaning" loops, but that means it's abrasive. Great for a cleaner, terrible for a coolant. You don't want your coolant wearing the surfaces of your loop.

EK's fluid was relatively easy to get off its respective surfaces (mostly) as it just left a film that had to be wiped off, but:
a. that means tearing down everything - opening up GPU blocks, CPU blocks, running snakes through tubes and/or replacing perfectly functional rubber if I couldn't get something through it to clean it

b. see above re: rubbing plating off. In my zeal to get the staining off, I managed to rub some plating off in spots on one system. Knowing what was film, what was minor surface oxidation/tarnish and what was coming off without removing plating was tricky enough that I got it wrong.

So, particularly if you go with something like red, commit to it... stick with red and ignore staining - clean carefully.


----------



## DarthBaggins

@akira749 any word on when the led nameplates will be available for the 1080ti/founders blocks?
Would be an added plus for them


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> The hard part is getting to all the surfaces and then not damaging them depending on what they are. Plated copper can be very thin so if you try too hard to rub off stains, you find you are rubbing off the plating.
> 
> Dies stain. That's what they do. As time goes on, I grow less and less inclined to even consider them as after a year it seems every super-fluid turns out to be problematic. Primo-Chill's Vue for example appears to be "cleaning" loops, but that means it's abrasive. Great for a cleaner, terrible for a coolant. You don't want your coolant wearing the surfaces of your loop.
> 
> EK's fluid was relatively easy to get off its respective surfaces (mostly) as it just left a film that had to be wiped off, but:
> a. that means tearing down everything - opening up GPU blocks, CPU blocks, running snakes through tubes and/or replacing perfectly functional rubber if I couldn't get something through it to clean it
> 
> b. see above re: rubbing plating off. In my zeal to get the staining off, I managed to rub some plating off in spots on one system. Knowing what was film, what was minor surface oxidation/tarnish and what was coming off without removing plating was tricky enough that I got it wrong.
> 
> So, particularly if you go with something like red, commit to it... stick with red and ignore staining - clean carefully.


And what would happen if I drain loop after 3 months with Blood Red Premixed coolant and fill with Clear Premixed Coolant?
What would happen, liquid would not be clear or what?

I ask because I put on list Clear, but I afraid I will want to change with some colored.
I ask for soft tubes, not hard tubes.

How big is temperature difference, average between Coolstream CE and Coolstream SE 280 radiators.
I will risk with Coolstream CE because size, who knows will it fit in my 650D with fans. Together with fans that's 7cm space need.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> And what would happen if I drain loop after 3 months with Blood Red Premixed coolant and fill with Clear Premixed Coolant?
> What would happen, liquid would not be clear or what?
> 
> I ask because I put on list Clear, but I afraid I will want to change with some colored.
> I ask for soft tubes, not hard tubes.


Red is one of the worst staining colors, so if you were to drain it and put in clear right after, your water would probably look murky brown or something similar. It will take a lot of flushes to clear out that red dye, however you can get it out by using Mayhems Blitz Basic Kit which is excellent at cleaning gunk and debris in loops.


----------



## Vlada011

Thanks, this is question for users who have RVE10 RGB Monoblock or EKWB support.
On installation manual you can see two different thermal pads needed for mobo.
0.5mm and 1.0mm. EK sell them as Thermal Pads F. But you see peace of Thermal pad size 0.5mm on South Bridge.
You don't get that thermal pad in package with Monoblock and it's not clear size I need. It's probably wider and bigger than others in EK Shop...
I would bought that peace as well.
I could buy in my country some normal thermal pad 0.5 mm 10x10cm and cut peace I need for PCH Soundbridge.



Today I need to finish everything, I change list twice. I constant think that I forgot something.
I'm sad because it's to complicate to order Alphacool Eiszapfen fittings from other place.

1. EK ACF-Fitting 13/10mm - Nickel (4-pack) (EAN: 3830046991997) x2
2. EK AF Angled 45 G1/4 - Nickel (EAN: 3831109845233) x2
3. EK Extender G1/4 Socket Nickel (3831109845936)
4. EK Coolstream CE 280mm (Dual) (EAN: 3831109860373)
5.EK DuraClear 9.5/12.7mm Retail 3m (EAN: 3831109850961)
6. EK CryoFuel Clear Premixes 900ml (EAN: 3831109880180)
7. EK CryoFuel Blood Red Premixes 900ml (EAN: 3831109880197)
8. EK AF Ball Valve (10mm) Nickel (EAN: 3831109847282)
9.EK XRES 100 Revo PWM (Pump Included) Glass (EAN: 3831109843109)
10. EK AF Extender Rotary M-M G1/4 Nickel (EAN: 3831109847237 )
11. EK CSQ Plug G1/4 Nickel (EAN: 3830046999238) x2
12. Thermal PAD F 0.5mm (120x16mm) (EAN: 3830046996725)
13. Thermal PAD F 1.0mm (120x16mm) (EAN: 3830046996732)

Fans 2x CORSAIR ML140 PRO PWM


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Red is one of the worst staining colors, so if you were to drain it and put in clear right after, your water would probably look murky brown or something similar. It will take a lot of flushes to clear out that red dye, however you can get it out by using Mayhems Blitz Basic Kit which is excellent at cleaning gunk and debris in loops.


What he said... pink (starting from ek-blood red) and there was some very subtle permanent staining on the plastic flow nozzle in the CPU block. I ended up taking everything apart and removing the last remaining film manually. Tight corners and lower flow segments of the loop.


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Thanks, this is question for users who have RVE10 RGB Monoblock or EKWB support.
> On installation manual you can see two different thermal pads needed for mobo.
> 0.5mm and 1.0mm. EK sell them as Thermal Pads F. But you see peace of Thermal pad size 0.5mm on South Bridge.
> You don't get that thermal pad in package with Monoblock and it's not clear size I need. It's probably wider and bigger than others in EK Shop...
> I would bought that peace as well.
> I could buy in my country some normal thermal pad 0.5 mm 10x10cm and cut peace I need for PCH Soundbridge.


hmmm, R5E just had you use paste for that IIRC. Don't have an R10

From the pic, they are indicating you need the 1mm (thicker) and that your expected to cut it off the pad provided for the mosfets

the PCH is a small die. You can order some 1mm fujipoly strips from amazon or similar if for whatever reason you don't have enough.


----------



## Vlada011

Thanks, I found in my country some thermal pads. It's not fuji poli but could serve.
Big question for me is place for drain valve. Inlet Port vs Outlet Port.
People say better Outlet

I have option to use Inlet Port (Extender and Ball Valve) or Outlet port with X Splitter and M-M Extender Rotary x2
On XRES D5 Revo 100 Glass.
Because one Inlet Port for liquid from radiator will be on top of reservoir.
Than it's question bottom Inlet or bottom Outler for drain valve.
Draining loop without valve is pain probably.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> @akira749
> 
> Any word on when the 1080ti FE WB front fascia gets the LED treatment? Welcome back!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> @akira749 any word on when the led nameplates will be available for the 1080ti/founders blocks?
> Would be an added plus for them
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


No recent news....I'll try to have an update on this.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Thanks, this is question for users who have RVE10 RGB Monoblock or EKWB support.
> On installation manual you can see two different thermal pads needed for mobo.
> 0.5mm and 1.0mm. EK sell them as Thermal Pads F. But you see peace of Thermal pad size 0.5mm on South Bridge.
> You don't get that thermal pad in package with Monoblock and it's not clear size I need. It's probably wider and bigger than others in EK Shop...
> I would bought that peace as well.
> I could buy in my country some normal thermal pad 0.5 mm 10x10cm and cut peace I need for PCH Soundbridge.


You should have receive enough 0.5mm thermal pads for the South Bridge and the VRM's. Unless there was a problem in your package.


----------



## Vlada011

Guys, look what I found. This is perfect for reservoirs with extra ports on top as XRES D5 Revo 100 Glass.

https://modmymods.com/barrow-quartz-rgb-g1-4-stop-fitting-light-tsydc-rgb.html



_This Unique quartz G1/4 stop fitting light is especially good at illuminating reservoirs providing a 180 degree field of illumination. *It's RGB capabilities allow you to fully customize the type of light you want*._

1. Inlet
2. Fill
3. RGB LED

Damn only this shop sell, I can't find similar thing in big stores.
Probably because it's innovation. Maybe could be connected to ASUS RGB Header and change with AURA.

Coolemaster have some RGB Spliter and on one header you could connect 3 LED Strips. Or two strips and this tool.
Now only to find this in some bigger store, PPC, Amazon, etc...


----------



## blurp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Guys, look what I found. This is perfect for reservoirs with extra ports on top as XRES D5 Revo 100 Glass.
> 
> https://modmymods.com/barrow-quartz-rgb-g1-4-stop-fitting-light-tsydc-rgb.html
> 
> 
> 
> _This Unique quartz G1/4 stop fitting light is especially good at illuminating reservoirs providing a 180 degree field of illumination. *It's RGB capabilities allow you to fully customize the type of light you want*._
> 
> 1. Inlet
> 2. Fill
> 3. RGB LED
> 
> Damn only this shop sell, I can't find similar thing in big stores.
> Probably because it's innovation. Maybe could be connected to ASUS RGB Header and change with AURA.
> 
> Coolemaster have some RGB Spliter and on one header you could connect 3 LED Strips. Or two strips and this tool.
> Now only to find this in some bigger store, PPC, Amazon, etc...


I own the white light version in my reservoir. Like it.


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

I'm a newbie at water-cooling, but I think I may be hooked! This is my slim 360 kit in my enthoo luxe. Any idea if the x240 kit could fit in the front with the HDD cages removed?


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing*
> 
> Any idea if the x240 kit could fit?


What's more important is whether you need it. I only see the CPU cooled in your rig? If so, are your deltas really that bad?

If you're thinking about the GPU on the other hand, it should based on the case's pics, but perhaps you could wait for an actual owner.


----------



## pc-illiterate

You can make anything fit.


----------



## M3TAl

Does anyone know a site that sells o-rings in metric that doesn't force a minimum order amount? Need to replace all the o-rings on one of my 290x blocks. Places like PPCS, MMM, FCPU, don't seem to have the right sizes. The few online o-ring retailers I found seem to want you to buy 10+ o-rings or they sell them custom made.

The o-rings on one of the used blocks I picked up recently are extremely smooshed and dry. No leaks yet but my flow is EXTREMELY low (will be adding a 2nd pump soon, so worried about leaks from it). Friend of mine bought a 290x block from the same person and his barely leaks at higher flow so I'm thinking the same will happen to me once a 2nd pump is added.

The sizes are in mm: 124x2, 15x1, 47x1.5, and 45x1.5.

EDIT: Looks like at theoringstore.com the 123x2 and 125x2 o-rings do not have a minimum order requirement. Could either one of those work in place of the 124x2? I always found that o-ring to be a little on the large side in my experience, maybe 123x2 would be fine?


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Does anyone know a site that sells o-rings in metric that doesn't force a minimum order amount? Need to replace all the o-rings on one of my 290x blocks. Places like PPCS, MMM, FCPU, don't seem to have the right sizes. The few online o-ring retailers I found seem to want you to buy 10+ o-rings or they sell them custom made.
> 
> The o-rings on one of the used blocks I picked up recently are extremely smooshed and dry. No leaks yet but my flow is EXTREMELY low (will be adding a 2nd pump soon, so worried about leaks from it). Friend of mine bought a 290x block from the same person and his barely leaks at higher flow so I'm thinking the same will happen to me once a 2nd pump is added.
> 
> The sizes are in mm: 124x2, 15x1, 47x1.5, and 45x1.5.
> 
> EDIT: Looks like at theoringstore.com the 123x2 and 125x2 o-rings do not have a minimum order requirement. Could either one of those work in place of the 124x2? I always found that o-ring to be a little on the large side in my experience, maybe 123x2 would be fine?


You can always make your own as well with a little o-ring adhesive and a spool of the right diameter o-ring cord.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> You can always make your own as well with a little o-ring adhesive and a spool of the right diameter o-ring cord.


With me doing it... just asking for a leak


----------



## Vlada011

And I will be newbie for few days.

I have problem. I need to think configuration for Obsidian 650D, maybe worse case at the moment for watercooling, and in same time same watercooling stuff need to be compatible with Bullet BH8.
I have huge graphic card and tubes will go over GPU before I switch to Volta, same as guy above. But I can't do nothing else.
I only could prey that Coolstream CE 280 45mm+25mm fan will stay because my motherboard 8 pin connector and heatsink.
There is a good chace that 280mm radiator will cool down CPU/VRM/GPU in first months and because of that difference between CE and SE radiators are probably important.
Coolstream PE would stay, but he is only 240mm.

How much is temp difference between Coolstream CE 280 and Coolstream SE 280.
CE is almost as two SE radiators thick?


----------



## Bartdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> And I will be newbie for few days.
> 
> I have problem. I need to think configuration for Obsidian 650D, maybe worse case at the moment for watercooling, and in same time same watercooling stuff need to be compatible with Bullet BH8.
> I have huge graphic card and tubes will go over GPU before I switch to Volta, same as guy above. But I can't do nothing else.
> I only could prey that Coolstream CE 280 45mm+25mm fan will stay because my motherboard 8 pin connector and heatsink.
> There is a good chace that 280mm radiator will cool down CPU/VRM/GPU in first months and because of that difference between CE and SE radiators are probably important.
> Coolstream PE would stay, but he is only 240mm.
> 
> How much is temp difference between Coolstream CE 280 and Coolstream SE 280.
> CE is almost as two SE radiators thick?


there is ALOT of difference, see here http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/


----------



## Vlada011

I must go on CE, no other way, risk.
That's when you have tight buget and need to pay attention on very fitting, every adapter pefectly.
I have 300 euro for watercooling without waterblocks.
pump/res/radiator is 200, other is on everything else, 8 fittings, some adapters, tubes, coolant.

If not fit I will drill rivets and remove whole DVD-RW bay and drill holes for 240mm radiator on front.
That's last resort.
One thing give me hope. Maybe will Monoblock to make more space.
But real challenge will be installation 8+4 pin. I have extenders maybe they help.

Edit. I figure out how to resolve problem with radiators space on 650D. I will remove DVD-RW Cage and HDD Cages and connect holders for radiator.



Problem resolved.


----------



## Aenra

Re-subbing.. gotta love forum switches. 
/carry on, lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

Aenra said:


> Re-subbing.. gotta love forum switches.
> /carry on, lol


So far all my subs are here. Just was glad to see the site finally back up, had to roam other forums to get daily fix


----------



## KCDC

DarthBaggins said:


> So far all my subs are here. Just was glad to see the site finally back up, had to roam other forums to get daily fix


My subs kept, thankfully, but having issues getting to the last read post on those I haven't checked yet. What other forums do you like in this arena? I still kinda find the most activity here.


----------



## DarthBaggins

TechPowerUp is my other go to along with the EVGA forums. I avoid Reddit and FB since they're so toxic.


----------



## KCDC

I don't mind reddit, but I can't even look at FB anymore. Removing it from my phone was like taking the most satisfying dump ever.


----------



## Ashcroft

Vlada011 said:


> And I will be newbie for few days.
> 
> I have problem. I need to think configuration for Obsidian 650D, maybe worse case at the moment for watercooling, and in same time same watercooling stuff need to be compatible with Bullet BH8.
> I have huge graphic card and tubes will go over GPU before I switch to Volta, same as guy above. But I can't do nothing else.
> I only could prey that Coolstream CE 280 45mm+25mm fan will stay because my motherboard 8 pin connector and heatsink.
> There is a good chace that 280mm radiator will cool down CPU/VRM/GPU in first months and because of that difference between CE and SE radiators are probably important.
> Coolstream PE would stay, but he is only 240mm.
> 
> How much is temp difference between Coolstream CE 280 and Coolstream SE 280.
> CE is almost as two SE radiators thick?





Bartdude said:


> Quote:Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> And I will be newbie for few days.
> 
> I have problem. I need to think configuration for Obsidian 650D, maybe worse case at the moment for watercooling, and in same time same watercooling stuff need to be compatible with Bullet BH8.
> I have huge graphic card and tubes will go over GPU before I switch to Volta, same as guy above. But I can't do nothing else.
> I only could prey that Coolstream CE 280 45mm+25mm fan will stay because my motherboard 8 pin connector and heatsink.
> There is a good chace that 280mm radiator will cool down CPU/VRM/GPU in first months and because of that difference between CE and SE radiators are probably important.
> Coolstream PE would stay, but he is only 240mm.
> 
> How much is temp difference between Coolstream CE 280 and Coolstream SE 280.
> CE is almost as two SE radiators thick?
> 
> 
> there is ALOT of difference, see here http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/



There may be some differences between the 120 and 140mm versions so those testing numbers may not be exactly representative.

Assuming they are though its important to not get graph dazzled. Just what would the real difference be?

Lets assume its similar to PE vs SE. From the testing at 700rpm its 156w vs 182w at 10C, and at 1300rpm its 234 vs 293w at 10C

assuming a 300w heat load thats 
700rpm SE - 19C, PE - 16C
1300rpm SE - 12.8c, PE - 10.2c

so something around 3C at both those speeds. At higher speeds the gap actually shrinks.

Are those sorts of differences enough to justify a rad that may not fit or one that does with excess difficulty? What about if one rad allows for more fans to increase its performance? Thats for you to decide. 
The numbers will be different with the 280mm versions but not be a great deal.

The real life differences between rads will always be relatively small, and the more you have the smaller the difference. I went through years of buying new, ever thicker rads before i realised that how they look and fit is far more useful in the long run than simply topping a chart.


----------



## SavantStrike

Can any of you who have nickel plated backplates weigh in on whether or not it's possible to remove the circular EK logo?

I'm seriously considering using one of these plates but the logo will mess with the aesthetics of my build.


----------



## emsj86

The new layout is horrible. Can barely do anything on mobile and it’s just a mess


----------



## akira749

SavantStrike said:


> Can any of you who have nickel plated backplates weigh in on whether or not it's possible to remove the circular EK logo?
> 
> I'm seriously considering using one of these plates but the logo will mess with the aesthetics of my build.



You can remove it since it's a simple sticker but, you'll have to cover the placeholder since it's recessed in the backplate and there's usually a punched hole under it too.


----------



## Ceadderman

Aenra said:


> Re-subbing.. gotta love forum switches.
> /carry on, lol


IKR. Why can't it go to last page for subs? :doh:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## SavantStrike

akira749 said:


> You can remove it since it's a simple sticker but, you'll have to cover the placeholder since it's recessed in the backplate and there's usually a punched hole under it too.


How big is the punched hole? It may still look pretty good even if I don't cover the sticker since the plating has to happen before the sticker gets put on.

I might end up covering over the sticker with another sticker - in this case a Jedi Order sticker since this is a Star Wars TXP.


----------



## gupsterg

Question for OCN EK HW Rep, is this cold plate going to be made available to EK Threadripper block owners? will a current owner have to pay or FOC update?

Been disappointed with EK Threadripper block, went and an ordered a Bykski block a few days ago, which even supports AM3/4.


----------



## lzf995

I have an ek supreme hf, 2x ek-fc7970 with an ek 4.0 pump can i join


----------



## akira749

SavantStrike said:


> How big is the punched hole? It may still look pretty good even if I don't cover the sticker since the plating has to happen before the sticker gets put on.
> 
> I might end up covering over the sticker with another sticker - in this case a Jedi Order sticker since this is a Star Wars TXP.


Good question, I don't have the exact dimension but it's like 4mm in diameter.




gupsterg said:


> Question for OCN EK HW Rep, is this cold plate going to be made available to EK Threadripper block owners? will a current owner have to pay or FOC update?
> 
> Been disappointed with EK Threadripper block, went and an ordered a Bykski block a few days ago, which even supports AM3/4.


I will get back at you soon about that.


----------



## gupsterg

akira749 said:


> I will get back at you soon about that.


Appreciate it and thank you  .


----------



## KickAssCop

One of the people I know on the forums bought an MLC phoenix and their pump died in 1 week. Is this still an issue with MLC phoenix line? I really wanted to indulge but now ended up w/ all my gfx cards on AIO solutions from EVGA and Corsair/MSI.


----------



## Aenra

Been wondering this for quite some time now, but it's one of these "delicate" things you aren't really likely to get an honest response on 
In the end, i figured it wouldn't hurt to try anyway.. so:
If you go check EK's D5 pump's specifications on https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-vario-motor-laing-d5-vario-motor, you can see they list max head pressure as _3.9_. You go check the very same pump (only the sticker's different) from any other companies that also rebrand and sell it, it's listed as _3.7_.
What gives? 

(of the two possible replies, the good one seems invalid, as EK states on its own that this is the traditional Laing vario pump; leaving me with the other remaining answer, ie that this is a blatantly false statement. I mean i'd assume that had they re-designed the pump, they wouldn't be saying plain "Laing" now would they)


----------



## DarthBaggins

Project Gray Scale is moving along, slowly but moving forward.


----------



## IT Diva

Aenra said:


> Been wondering this for quite some time now, but it's one of these "delicate" things you aren't really likely to get an honest response on
> In the end, i figured it wouldn't hurt to try anyway.. so:
> If you go check EK's D5 pump's specifications on https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-vario-motor-laing-d5-vario-motor, you can see they list max head pressure as _3.9_. You go check the very same pump (only the sticker's different) from any other companies that also rebrand and sell it, it's listed as _3.7_.
> What gives?
> 
> (of the two possible replies, the good one seems invalid, as EK states on its own that this is the traditional Laing vario pump; leaving me with the other remaining answer, ie that this is a blatantly false statement. I mean i'd assume that had they re-designed the pump, they wouldn't be saying plain "Laing" now would they)


 


It's possible that EK's milling of the volute results in that miniscule improvement when used with their tops . . . 


Or, since it says up to 3.9, and there's a graph with a line for 24V operation, it may mean 3.9 if operated at 24V, where 3.7 is what you get at 12V


Either way, such a tiny amount is basically within the piece to piece variation / measurement tolerance, that's reasonable to expect.


Consistently getting one's knickers in a knot over such trivialities can't be conducive to being a happy camper.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Aenra said:


> Been wondering this for quite some time now, but it's one of these "delicate" things you aren't really likely to get an honest response on
> In the end, i figured it wouldn't hurt to try anyway.. so:
> If you go check EK's D5 pump's specifications on https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-vario-motor-laing-d5-vario-motor, you can see they list max head pressure as _3.9_. You go check the very same pump (only the sticker's different) from any other companies that also rebrand and sell it, it's listed as _3.7_.
> What gives?
> 
> (of the two possible replies, the good one seems invalid, as EK states on its own that this is the traditional Laing vario pump; leaving me with the other remaining answer, ie that this is a blatantly false statement. I mean i'd assume that had they re-designed the pump, they wouldn't be saying plain "Laing" now would they)



Head height is totally dependent on restriction and flow rate.

And the max is around 5m.


----------



## Ashcroft

Aenra said:


> Been wondering this for quite some time now, but it's one of these "delicate" things you aren't really likely to get an honest response on
> In the end, i figured it wouldn't hurt to try anyway.. so:
> If you go check EK's D5 pump's specifications on https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-vario-motor-laing-d5-vario-motor, you can see they list max head pressure as _3.9_. You go check the very same pump (only the sticker's different) from any other companies that also rebrand and sell it, it's listed as _3.7_.
> What gives?
> 
> (of the two possible replies, the good one seems invalid, as EK states on its own that this is the traditional Laing vario pump; leaving me with the other remaining answer, ie that this is a blatantly false statement. I mean i'd assume that had they re-designed the pump, they wouldn't be saying plain "Laing" now would they)


I looked around and found Alphacool listing "3.7m at 12V", Thermaltake listing "4.5m" and XSPC listing "3.7m at 12V" 
You will also see different max flow figures from 1200 to 1500LPH. 
There has always been a lot of this sort of stat mixing 

Some of it is maybe to do with the slight 12V/24V difference. EK's "up to 3.9m" may mean at 24V or it could just be a different conversion from ft of the same graph because they are not east to read at all. 

Also the fact that the pump performs very differently depending on what volute it is placed in. The Factory Laing specs themselves have several several different head and flow values for the plastic tops with different diameter inlet/outlet barbs and the brass tops. Different aftermarket tops make for an even greater range of true max head figures whether at standard 12V or 24V.

In reality the bare pump itself has no true max or flow head figure. Some brands like Alphacool and XSPC are listing the head figure for a factory plastic top even though the pump is not provided with that top and they can't agree on flow rate because one provides the 12V, 1/2" figure while the other uses the 24V, 3/4" Thermaltake provides some better figures that must apply to their specific pump tops.

Its not a case of trying to pull a fast one. Just confusion, laziness and a somewhat complex topic. I've seen D5 Vario pumps advertised with D5 strong figures because the factory combines the two in some of its literature. I believe Laing and Xylem have provided different numbers for the same items at different times too.

The true max head of a D5 Vario at 12V in an EK top is much higher than 3.9m


----------



## Aenra

IT Diva said:


> Consistently getting one's knickers in a knot over such trivialities can't be conducive to being a happy camper.


May not post much, but i do like me some reading. I've often seen you reply or comment on complaints/criticism in this kind of manner; you must at best have a peculiar sense of what certain notions signify, or at least are meant to. To each their own i guess.
Now as to to your possible explanation, we're talking about a plain, standalone D5 pump. Not a top, not a combo, not modified. Just a plain rebranded pump that is somehow presented as being better than all the other equally same, equally rebranded pump units sold elsewhere. It's principle, not numbers. It's curiosity/attention to detail, not life and death need-to-know. Better to ask than pre-suppose in life. Am here to improve my skills and knowledge, not make friends with company reps. No agenda, no bones to pick.

@Ashcroft never checked Thermaltake's numbers, good catch. Had i even the slightest interest in them, i might have asked in a relative thread. But.. thermaltake ^^
You _do_ have a point about the different versions having come out through the years though, never considered that. Will do some digging as i'm curious. Oh and again, thanks for the pointer.


----------



## Ashcroft

Aenra said:


> May not post much, but i do like me some reading. I've often seen you reply or comment on complaints/criticism in this kind of manner; you must at best have a peculiar sense of what certain notions signify, or at least are meant to. To each their own i guess.
> Now as to to your possible explanation, we're talking about a plain, standalone D5 pump. Not a top, not a combo, not modified. Just a plain rebranded pump that is somehow presented as being better than all the other equally same, equally rebranded pump units sold elsewhere. It's principle, not numbers. It's curiosity/attention to detail, not life and death need-to-know. Better to ask than pre-suppose in life. Am here to improve my skills and knowledge, not make friends with company reps. No agenda, no bones to pick.
> 
> @Ashcroft never checked Thermaltake's numbers, good catch. Had i even the slightest interest in them, i might have asked in a relative thread. But.. thermaltake ^^
> You _do_ have a point about the different versions having come out through the years though, never considered that. Will do some digging as i'm curious. Oh and again, thanks for the pointer.



EK, XSPC, Alphacool, Aquacomputer etc are just relying on the factory Laing specs that they are probably just given. If they were trying to make their pump seem better than the competition they could have done a lot better than from 3.7 to 3.9m of head. 
That specific pump ib your link is the bare model so it doesn't have factory figures, just figures when used with the factory top. They use the same number for the pump sold with their X-Top though and its independantly tested numbers are far higher than 3.9m so they are doing themselves a disservice if anything.

Instead of just numbers they do at least provide the actual factory PQ chart to look at which is far more relevant and provides more information than simple stats. 
Looking at that graph I can't read it accurately so its not hard to imagine someone reading it as 3.7 and another as 3.9 (after conversion)
They also provide an independent PQ graph for their X-top pump which again is far more useful. 

If trying to get away with something they aren't doing a great job of it. They have also said may times in these forums that a D5 is a D5 and theirs is no different.


----------



## Aenra

@Ashcroft have seen those, yeah. I won't twist your argument upside down, am assuming you can grasp on your own why (said same graphs applying for everyone) it's kinda funny only one company reads them differently. Anyway, end of story.
As i said, this isn't a witch hunt. For one, it takes many, lol and two, got no will or interest in initiating one. I saw a discrepancy, so i asked in the relevant thread. And thanks for replying btw ^^


----------



## Danman980

Just a quick question. Should an EK rotary fitting stay sealed while its rotating? 
I only ask this as while air testing my loop I found a 90deg fitting that leaked air when I moved the test gauge around while the air hose was attached to it.
Just wanted to check before I throw the fitting away.
Cheers Dan.


----------



## Aenra

Danman980 said:


> Just wanted to check before I throw the fitting away


Don't throw it away yet, it's definitely defective, but email support first


----------



## Goofy Flow

My build just finished, if you guys are interested let me know in my log thread:

http://www.overclock.net/forum/26709233-post113.html

Here just a couple of Pics...


----------



## svx94

Goofy Flow said:


> My build just finished, if you guys are interested let me know in my log thread...


Very nice!!! congratulations!


----------



## toncij

I need advice on a small build I'm making out of my old machine. It's a recording machine so my top priority is to have it as silent as possible, but I miss some performance atm.

Currently, it's a secondary station with R5E, 5960X with Corsair H115i+PPC2000 Noctuas and dual 1080Ti (down from 4) that are still on air.

The CPU itself can run 4.7 at 3.5V or 4.6 at 1.32V or 4.5 at 1.28V, 4.4 at 1.23V and 4.0 at 1.1V which I find nice, but the H155i can't cool @load more than [email protected] at full rpm and getting up to 92-95°C which is too high.

The idea is to get an EK XE 360 + XE240 and use it for the CPU and both GPUs with some push config switching maybe to some NF-A12x15 to maybe fit push-pull in 30mm.

But I'm not sure if I'll gain anything CPU wise. How much better can this cool the CPU? Any ideas?

Maybe even go with push-pull NF-A12x15 instead of single NF-F12 fans...


----------



## jvillaveces

I don’t know wy this wasn’t posted by an EK rep, but here’s a link to something important from EKWB. Maybe OCN is actually dying...

https://www.ekwb.com/news/an-apology-from-ek-to-the-enthusiasts/


----------



## kevindd992002

I just started working on my build and I have a very simple question about the EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump) product. It included the Revo D5 Decoupler Soft Dampener ( https://www.ekwb.com/shop/revo-d5-decoupler-soft ) and I wanted to use it to replace the standard anti-vibration dampener. In the instructions, it says this:










The instructions are very vague and need a rewording rework, IMO. Questions:

1) Which side is "facing up" in the whole pump assembly? It doesn't really tell you a reference, does it? With the pic below, did I do it correctly?










2) What does "additional damper use is recommended in vertical reservoir unit mount"? This unit does not come with a reservoir. If it's talking about just the pump assembly, does it mean that it is not recommended to use this damper when I mount the pump horizontally as described in this pic below?


----------



## scracy

kevindd992002 said:


> I just started working on my build and I have a very simple question about the EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump) product. It included the Revo D5 Decoupler Soft Dampener ( https://www.ekwb.com/shop/revo-d5-decoupler-soft ) and I wanted to use it to replace the standard anti-vibration dampener. In the instructions, it says this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The instructions are very vague and need a rewording rework, IMO. Questions:
> 
> 1) Which side is "facing up" in the whole pump assembly? It doesn't really tell you a reference, does it? With the pic below, did I do it correctly?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) What does "additional damper use is recommended in vertical reservoir unit mount"? This unit does not come with a reservoir. If it's talking about just the pump assembly, does it mean that it is not recommended to use this damper when I mount the pump horizontally as described in this pic below?


The way you have it is the correct way for vertical mounting, believe it or not it does make a difference :thumb:


----------



## jura11

toncij said:


> I need advice on a small build I'm making out of my old machine. It's a recording machine so my top priority is to have it as silent as possible, but I miss some performance atm.
> 
> Currently, it's a secondary station with R5E, 5960X with Corsair H115i+PPC2000 Noctuas and dual 1080Ti (down from 4) that are still on air.
> 
> The CPU itself can run 4.7 at 3.5V or 4.6 at 1.32V or 4.5 at 1.28V, 4.4 at 1.23V and 4.0 at 1.1V which I find nice, but the H155i can't cool @load more than [email protected] at full rpm and getting up to 92-95°C which is too high.
> 
> The idea is to get an EK XE 360 + XE240 and use it for the CPU and both GPUs with some push config switching maybe to some NF-A12x15 to maybe fit push-pull in 30mm.
> 
> But I'm not sure if I'll gain anything CPU wise. How much better can this cool the CPU? Any ideas?
> 
> Maybe even go with push-pull NF-A12x15 instead of single NF-F12 fans...


Hi there 

I have run H100i on my 5820k and going back to air I gained around 8°C on PKG 

http://www.overclock.net/forum/246-air-cooling/1610396-noctua-nh-d15-vs-corsair-h100i-v2-my-comparison-my-little-test.html

Regarding if you will gain going with custom water loop 

I would say yes there,how much depending on few things etc but I would expect at least 6-8°C on PKG 

Yours 5960x is not bad, my 5960x will do 4.5Ghz at 1.23v and temperatures are on load in 62-65°C on PKG and 4.6Ghz at 1.25v and temperatures are higher by 2-5°C on PKG 

This 5960x is RMA replacement, previous has failed(IMC I think failed) which has been one poor OC'er, this one could do 4.3GHz at 1.31v and temperatures has been lot higher than my current one 

Tried as well on my 5960x as well NH-D15 and temperatures has been higher by 5-7°C with NH-D15 

Regarding yours planned loop, yes XE360 I can recommend there, PE360 can work as well, have tried both radiators and both seems are good, XE likes higher speed fans, PE seems too, really depends on location but there are few radiators which I can recommend or which I tried 

I recently replaced my EK Supermacy EVO for Aquacomputer Kryos with which I gained around 6°C on PKG against my EK Supermacy EVO 

For fans you can try EK Vardar F3 1850RPM or their new EVO version, Noctua are overrated fans and there are several good fans which performs better or similarly like Noctua 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## kevindd992002

scracy said:


> The way you have it is the correct way for vertical mounting, believe it or not it does make a difference :thumb:


Right but I will be mounting the pump + pump top combo in a horizontal mounting position. Does that mean it is still recommended to use that pyramid damper?


----------



## svx94

kevindd992002 said:


> Right but I will be mounting the pump + pump top combo in a horizontal mounting position. Does that mean it is still recommended to use that pyramid damper?


It is about noise/vibration reduction. I guess you always should use it regardless mounting position.


----------



## scracy

kevindd992002 said:


> Right but I will be mounting the pump + pump top combo in a horizontal mounting position. Does that mean it is still recommended to use that pyramid damper?


For horizontal mounting use the other rubber mount that comes with it, the pyramid one is only used for vertical mounting


----------



## kevindd992002

svx94 said:


> It is about noise/vibration reduction. I guess you always should use it regardless mounting position.


Common sense dictates to use it regardless of mounting position but there's got to be a reason why EK stated, in their manual, that using the pyramid damper is recommended for vertical mounting. Like I said, the manual is vague.



scracy said:


> For horizontal mounting use the other rubber mount that comes with it, the pyramid one is only used for vertical mounting


Any reason as to why it shouldn't be used for horizontal mounting?


----------



## scracy

kevindd992002 said:


> Common sense dictates to use it regardless of mounting position but there's got to be a reason why EK stated, in their manual, that using the pyramid damper is recommended for vertical mounting. Like I said, the manual is vague.
> 
> 
> 
> Any reason as to why it shouldn't be used for horizontal mounting?


The manual states pyramid damper for vertical mount of pump I dont find the manual all that vague myself as it is implied the other rubber damper is for horizontal mounting of the pump.


----------



## kevindd992002

scracy said:


> The manual states pyramid damper for vertical mount of pump I dont find the manual all that vague myself as it is implied the other rubber damper is for horizontal mounting of the pump.


I guess vague is too much of a strong word. I know it is kinda implied but it still doesn't explain why the pyramid isn't recommended for the horizontal mounting though. I mean, it's obvious that the pyramid decouples the pump from the whole whole holder so why can't it be applicable to horizontal mounting too 

I just need to wait for EK's official response on this. I already emailed them. Or I hope the reps here can clarify.


----------



## Danman980

This is just a guess , but I'd say the reason you wouldn't need the pyramid style damper on a horizontal mount is because there would be uneven pressure applied on the pyramid shapes . This would have the pump body cocked over to one side.
The bottom of the mount would squash down leaving nothing touching the top of the mount.
That's just my theory, I could be totally wrong. Hope that helps somehow. 

Cheers Dan.


----------



## jvillaveces

kevindd992002 said:


> I guess vague is too much of a strong word. I know it is kinda implied but it still doesn't explain why the pyramid isn't recommended for the horizontal mounting though. I mean, it's obvious that the pyramid decouples the pump from the whole whole holder so why can't it be applicable to horizontal mounting too
> 
> I just need to wait for EK's official response on this. I already emailed them. Or I hope the reps here can clarify.


I’m under the impression that nobody from EK is actively participating in this thread. Maybe because of their internal reorganization, or the chaos on OCN, or both. Anyway, they appear to be absent. Let’s hope it’s only a temporary situation.


----------



## RichKnecht

So I just swapped out my old X58 MB and 5675 in favor of a X299 Strix gaming-E and a 7900X. I have it OC'ed to 4.7 at the moment and was wondering if there was a way to add a water temp sensor to my loop? I've seen the in-line versions, but will they plug onto my new MB? I'd really like to monitor water temps as I am thinking of adding another 240mm radiator.


----------



## akira749

jvillaveces said:


> I don’t know wy this wasn’t posted by an EK rep, but here’s a link to something important from EKWB. Maybe OCN is actually dying...
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/news/an-apology-from-ek-to-the-enthusiasts/


Sorry about that. I totally forgot to link it here. 




kevindd992002 said:


> I guess vague is too much of a strong word. I know it is kinda implied but it still doesn't explain why the pyramid isn't recommended for the horizontal mounting though. I mean, it's obvious that the pyramid decouples the pump from the whole whole holder so why can't it be applicable to horizontal mounting too
> 
> I just need to wait for EK's official response on this. I already emailed them. Or I hope the reps here can clarify.


That's a very good question about the horizontal mounting. I will ask the guys and let you know....unless they reply to you quicker than to me. 




jvillaveces said:


> I’m under the impression that nobody from EK is actively participating in this thread. Maybe because of their internal reorganization, or the chaos on OCN, or both. Anyway, they appear to be absent. Let’s hope it’s only a temporary situation.


I was always here...the EK "reorganization" never affected the support guys. :thumb:

The OCN chaos was indeed a frustrating moment for me (like many others) but I slowly get use to the new version.


----------



## jvillaveces

akira749 said:


> I was always here...the EK "reorganization" never affected the support guys. :thumb:
> 
> The OCN chaos was indeed a frustrating moment for me (like many others) but I slowly get use to the new version.


:thumb: :cheers: :applaud:


----------



## MNMadman

RichKnecht said:


> So I just swapped out my old X58 MB and 5675 in favor of a X299 Strix gaming-E and a 7900X. I have it OC'ed to 4.7 at the moment and was wondering if there was a way to add a water temp sensor to my loop? I've seen the in-line versions, but will they plug onto my new MB? I'd really like to monitor water temps as I am thinking of adding another 240mm radiator.


XSPC has inline coolant temp sensors that have an attached LCD screen to show the temp. That's what I got for my new build.


----------



## MNMadman

@akira749

Any projected date for the announcement for the ASRock X399 monoblocks? You've got everybody else already.

...or are you not doing ASRock monoblocks?


----------



## kevindd992002

akira749 said:


> That's a very good question about the horizontal mounting. I will ask the guys and let you know....unless they reply to you quicker than to me.


Good to know that you're still active! They usually reply once a day but I'll update this thread when I get the official answer. So far what they've answered is that I correctly installed the pyramid dampener according to the 1st picture I've posted. The only question left now is whether the pyramid dampener can/recommended to be used when the pump combo is mounted horizontally.


----------



## kevindd992002

Sorry for the double post but here's the reply to me by EK:

Hi Kevin, 

Both dampers can be used for both options, but in a vertical orientation, the Pyramid is recommended, because when the pump is in a vertical orientation, the liquid presses down towards the pump with weight and vibrations are more noticeable, so the Pyramid vibration damper eliminates them quite well. The Pyramid damper is more of if we say "even better vibration isolator - sort of upgrade from the default basic one) and it should be ok. Most customers use the normal damper for both orientations (vertical and horizontal) so it's only the matter of how much vibrations actually bother you, but you can use normal one for horizontal, yes. 

Best regards, Ales


----------



## KCDC

I swapped from the pyramid to normal damper because I thought it was causing sag and lean on my vert mounted 250 res. That was a mistake as it still has a slight lean and now I have high pitched vibration noise. Definitely go with the pyramid.


----------



## kevindd992002

KCDC said:


> I swapped from the pyramid to normal damper because I thought it was causing sag and lean on my vert mounted 250 res. That was a mistake as it still has a slight lean and now I have high pitched vibration noise. Definitely go with the pyramid.


What do you mean by it's causing sag and lean for a vertical-mounted 250 res?

I guess what I don't understand is why doesn't EK just not use the pyramid damper for all their pumps if it is a better solution and that it is compatible for both orientations.


----------



## KCDC

kevindd992002 said:


> What do you mean by it's causing sag and lean for a vertical-mounted 250 res?
> 
> I guess what I don't understand is why doesn't EK just not use the pyramid damper for all their pumps if it is a better solution and that it is compatible for both orientations.


When I was using soft tubing, the weight of the fluid would let the res lean slightly to the left regardless of which decoupler/damper I used. No longer happens with rigid tubing since it helps reinforce it. This was using EK's 140mm rad/fan mount to the res/pump top combo without the use of the res clamps. I'll try to dig up a pic, can't find one currently, they were lost with my Rig Sig. It would be fine if I used the res clamp mounts, but I didn't like the look of them.

Hope this makes sense.


----------



## kevindd992002

KCDC said:


> When I was using soft tubing, the weight of the fluid would let the res lean slightly to the left regardless of which decoupler/damper I used. No longer happens with rigid tubing since it helps reinforce it. This was using EK's 140mm rad/fan mount to the res/pump top combo without the use of the res clamps. I'll try to dig up a pic, can't find one currently, they were lost with my Rig Sig. It would be fine if I used the res clamp mounts, but I didn't like the look of them.
> 
> Hope this makes sense.


Gotcha, thanks!


----------



## MNMadman

In case anybody wants to know, the EK-FB ASRock X399 RGB Monoblock - Nickel with the new revised cooling engine is available.

Apparently, this news is too new for their site's News section...

Ordered mine today, as my Taichi's VRMs run very hot when stress testing. I'm willing to sacrifice a few degrees on the CPU to get the VRMs under liquid cooling.


----------



## RichKnecht

MNMadman said:


> In case anybody wants to know, the EK-FB ASRock X399 RGB Monoblock - Nickel with the new revised cooling engine is available.
> 
> Apparently, this news is too new for their site's News section...
> 
> Ordered mine today, as my Taichi's VRMs run very hot when stress testing. I'm willing to sacrifice a few degrees on the CPU to get the VRMs under liquid cooling.


Thanks for the heads up! Just placed an order for the X299 Strix monoblock. I think this will help with my 7900x temps.


----------



## jase78

hey guys, 
im looking for some suggestions on illuminating my an EK 140 reservoir. i realize now i should have spent the extra money to get the rgb option but unfortunately i didn't. so far I've found  THIS . But im not sure how it will look. Currently my res is kind of hidden in the shadows.


----------



## elderan

jase78 said:


> hey guys,
> im looking for some suggestions on illuminating my an EK 140 reservoir. i realize now i should have spent the extra money to get the rgb option but unfortunately i didn't. so far I've found But im not sure how it will look. Currently my res is kind of hidden in the shadows.


Get some https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MV46VAF/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 off amazon. Cut them to size, wrap them with the lights facing inward onto your res at the bottom and or top, use black electrical tape to hold them in and hide them. They are aura sync compatible and work very well. I did this with the EKWB Pumps in a similar way.


----------



## jsutter71

I've had this for a couple weeks now and on the fence about installing it. I recently went from a parallel to serial block because I wanted a cleaner look for the tubing. The dual serial blocks have a bottom exit port compared to the parallel which exits from the side. The only issue is that with the serial block my flow decreased significantly. almost two liters per minute. Fortunately the decreased flow has little to no impact on my temps. Another issue I have with the serial block is bubbles. I'm running 3 pumps and with the parallel block took less then a day to clear out almost all of the micro bubbles. Granted my loop is complicated with 4 RADs. This new terminal looks nice and I like having more options then the older terminal allowed. When I do install it I'll likely be bending more tubing though. When it comes to bending PETG I think it's a perishable skill. I wasted a couple feet of tubing, bad bends, when I switched from parallel to serial.

A few pics for comparison. 1st the new terminal, The parallel terminal, and current serial terminal. After that a couple other pics for added affect. I have 2 15" cold cathode tubes installed on the bottom of the case. The very last pic is my dual pump combo in the bottom chamber.


----------



## kevindd992002

Can anyone with the EK-FC1080 GTX Ti FTW3 (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-ti-ftw3-nickel) confirm if any of the 4 ports can be used as inlet/outlet? It does say that in the manual but I'm not sure if that's true. So if I decide to use the top left as inlet and bottom let as outlet (so basically they are inline), would that not have any issues?


----------



## svx94

kevindd992002 said:


> Can anyone with the EK-FC1080 GTX Ti FTW3 (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-ti-ftw3-nickel) confirm if any of the 4 ports can be used as inlet/outlet? It does say that in the manual but I'm not sure if that's true. So if I decide to use the top left as inlet and bottom let as outlet (so basically they are inline), would that not have any issues?


You misread it. It only has one inlet and one outlet (left and right), each has two port on different sides for flexible tubing arrangement. It does mention "reverse flow" is allowed without performance trade off, so you can use either port as inlet. but if you connect both tub to left (or right), NO cooling will happen. Water will flow right pass the block without going inside the block.


----------



## kevindd992002

svx94 said:


> You misread it. It only has one inlet and one outlet (left and right), each has two port on different sides for flexible tubing arrangement. It does mention "reverse flow" is allowed without performance trade off, so you can use either port as inlet. but if you connect both tub to left (or right), NO cooling will happen. Water will flow right pass the block without going inside the block.


That's what I thought although nowhere does it say in the manual: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046991881.pdf that reverse flow is allowed and even says this "You can use any opening as an inlet/outlet port. Do not forget to plug the remaining two opening with enclosed EK-Plug G1/4 or equivalent.

But thanks for the confirmation!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

kevindd992002 said:


> That's what I thought although nowhere does it say in the manual: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046991881.pdf that reverse flow is allowed and even says this "You can use any opening as an inlet/outlet port. Do not forget to plug the remaining two opening with enclosed EK-Plug G1/4 or equivalent.
> 
> But thanks for the confirmation!


Hmm. In your original question, you asked if you can use tubing inline on a gpu, which isn't possible on any block. Serial flow with offset ports, or parallel flow on top, bottom, or full parallel through the whole card.

TCO


----------



## kevindd992002

TheCautiousOne said:


> Hmm. In your original question, you asked if you can use tubing inline on a gpu, which isn't possible on any block. Serial flow with offset ports, or parallel flow on top, bottom, or full parallel through the whole card.
> 
> TCO


I was simply stating a scenario that I already think is not possible but was not a 100% sure because of the statement (not the diagram) in EK's manual. Pardon for the WC noobiness


----------



## Martin778

Does EK still have any AIO's in their lineup that aren't a set of loose parts to assemble a loop from? The EK Predators seem to be discontinued!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

kevindd992002 said:


> I was simply stating a scenario that I already think is not possible but was not a 100% sure because of the statement (not the diagram) in EK's manual. Pardon for the WC noobiness


No appologies needed mate. Always ask if you do not know. 

TCO


----------



## frankieskiller

*EK-FB MSI X299 Monoblock*

Howdy. I installed the EK-FB MSI X299 monoblock and I'm having an issue with getting the cold plate of the monoblock to sit properly on the CPU. It's close but, the cold plate doesn't fully rest on the top portion of the CPU which means there isn't sufficient heat transfer. When I pulled the block off I noticed the thermal paste looked good on the bottom portion of the CPU but, it barely touched the top part of the CPU. I am thinking the nylon spacers you install on the mosfet portion of the monoblock are too thick and not allowing the cold plate to fully rest on the top portion of the CPU. As a test, I tightened the top CPU standoffs on the back of the motherboard a bit more than the bottom. I took the block back off and it still barely touched the top of CPU which got me thinking the nylon spacers of the mosfet part of the block are just too thick.

I was thinking of slightly sanding down the nylon spacers so the block can seat far enough to touch the top part of the CPU. My only concern is that the block will now sit closer to the mosfets and I'd hate to crush them. It's hard to say but, I'm not sure it's fully seated on the mosfets either because the thermal tape that installed over the mosfets look like it's barely been touched. It looks like it could go down a bit further but, I'm a little worried about damaging something.

Any thoughts or ideas on how to go about fixing this issue?

Thanks!


----------



## DarthBaggins

@akira749Update on the nameplate lighting availability yet, thought I saw a new RGB GPU block on the Instagram feed :thumb:


----------



## svx94

frankieskiller said:


> Howdy. I installed the EK-FB MSI X299 monoblock and I'm having an issue with getting the cold plate of the monoblock to sit properly on the CPU. It's close but, the cold plate doesn't fully rest on the top portion of the CPU which means there isn't sufficient heat transfer. When I pulled the block off I noticed the thermal paste looked good on the bottom portion of the CPU but, it barely touched the top part of the CPU. I am thinking the nylon spacers you install on the mosfet portion of the monoblock are too thick and not allowing the cold plate to fully rest on the top portion of the CPU. As a test, I tightened the top CPU standoffs on the back of the motherboard a bit more than the bottom. I took the block back off and it still barely touched the top of CPU which got me thinking the nylon spacers of the mosfet part of the block are just too thick.
> 
> I was thinking of slightly sanding down the nylon spacers so the block can seat far enough to touch the top part of the CPU. My only concern is that the block will now sit closer to the mosfets and I'd hate to crush them. It's hard to say but, I'm not sure it's fully seated on the mosfets either because the thermal tape that installed over the mosfets look like it's barely been touched. It looks like it could go down a bit further but, I'm a little worried about damaging something.
> 
> Any thoughts or ideas on how to go about fixing this issue?
> 
> Thanks!


I am not a believer of monoblock for exactly several reasons. 
1. hard to install right - When you have a CPU block, you will need to install it properly to get even pressure on the surface, it is hard enough! Now you add VRM block, where VRM is engineered in MUCH less precision and have multiple of them. It is almost impossible to have all heat transmitting surface to line up properly. 
2. And even worse, the VRM block is on the same piece of metal of the CPU block. Metal is much better heat transformer than any TIM, so the VRM heat (which is much higher by design) is passing to CPU regardless your flow speed. As result, you will get much poor CPU temp, which by design, more sensitive than VRM temp. 
It just doesn't make sense to spend money on a monoblock imho. A good airflow to cool VRM, or dedicated VRM block with its own loop are better way to go.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Monoblocks are simple to install, don't know what happened for you to feel they're difficult. Also might want to do a bit more fact checking before putting out bad information.


----------



## MNMadman

svx94 said:


> I am not a believer of monoblock for exactly several reasons.
> 1. hard to install right - When you have a CPU block, you will need to install it properly to get even pressure on the surface, it is hard enough! Now you add VRM block, where VRM is engineered in MUCH less precision and have multiple of them. It is almost impossible to have all heat transmitting surface to line up properly.
> 2. And even worse, the VRM block is on the same piece of metal of the CPU block. Metal is much better heat transformer than any TIM, so the VRM heat (which is much higher by design) is passing to CPU regardless your flow speed. As result, you will get much poor CPU temp, which by design, more sensitive than VRM temp.
> It just doesn't make sense to spend money on a monoblock imho. A good airflow to cool VRM, or dedicated VRM block with its own loop are better way to go.


Sometimes, the fit can be weird. But only if there is a defect in manufacturing. Or, if you delid. The tolerances are very tight.

There is no "much poor CPU temp" with monoblocks. There may be a difference of 5ºC if you have a poor loop, but if you have enough radiator and fans for it all the difference in CPU temp will be minimal to none.

Good airflow is worse than monoblock. Every. Single. Time. Dedicated VRM block does work better, but only if they make one. Which in my case (X399 Taichi) they don't.

The benefits FAR outweigh the drawbacks.


----------



## frankieskiller

Thanks for the responses fellas, gave me some stuff to think about. So, I took everything a part including the nylon spacers and thermal pads and reinstalled the monoblock. With slightly tightening the block down it started directly touching the mosfet chips. Tightening them down more would prob be bad. The inductor coils space seemed fine. What about sanding down the mosfet part of the with 1000 grit wet dry sandpaper and then polish with brasso or something? The block is the only way it seems to cool the vrms. Fyi I have an msi x299 gaming m7 ack and an i9 7980xe oc'd at 4.6. Cpu temps were fine but vrms were hitting almost 120C under heavy loads(rendering).


----------



## frankieskiller

Forgot to mention my cpu was delidded


----------



## jvillaveces

I just got this, thought I would share

https://www.ekwb.com/news/rgb-version-popular-ek-xtop-revo-d5-pump-now-available/


----------



## MNMadman

frankieskiller said:


> Forgot to mention my cpu was delidded


This is the issue right here.

The monoblock is manufactured to the specs of a non-delidded CPU which has original factory TIM and sealant.

Delidding can make the IHS sit lower if the TIM and sealant aren't done just right. This throws off the measurements.

You could try the sanding thing for the MOSFET portion. That's really your only option at this point, besides switching to a CPU block and seeing if they have a separate VRM block.


----------



## frankieskiller

That makes sense. Sigh...

Unfortunately, I don't think EK makes a separate monoblock but, I'm going to double check their site. I'm going to get in touch with EK and see what they say. If I do sand down the portion of the mosfet chips I will probably need to sand down the inductor coils portion which would be a lot harder. 

If this doesn't work I suppose I'm going to have to down clock which isn't a big deal but, would be a shame since it's easy enough to keep the cpu cool.


----------



## strong island 1

man Im so disappointed in my maximus x formula vrm block. EK or Asus included the wrong thickness thermal pads and the block doesnt make contact with the vrm's causing really high vrm temps, like almost 100c. I can believe they would do that. It looks like 2 different sizes are needed for each heatsink. I had to spend like $30 on new pads, after paying so much for the mobo. When removing block there are no vrm impressions on pad, not even a little.

Then they put the ek logo tag so close to the g 1/4 port. Even the skinniest extensions, rub against it and chip it. Then the armor cover is so tight around the heatsink that a normal compression fitting hits the armor before it can screw down all the way. An extension is necessary to clear it for my fittings, but even my thinnest extension chipped the ek logo.

Really disappointing. Should have went with code.


----------



## scracy

strong island 1 said:


> man Im so disappointed in my maximus x formula vrm block. EK or Asus included the wrong thickness thermal pads and the block doesnt make contact with the vrm's causing really high vrm temps, like almost 100c. I can believe they would do that. It looks like 2 different sizes are needed for each heatsink. I had to spend like $30 on new pads, after paying so much for the mobo. When removing block there are no vrm impressions on pad, not even a little.
> 
> Then they put the ek logo tag so close to the g 1/4 port. Even the skinniest extensions, rub against it and chip it. Then the armor cover is so tight around the heatsink that a normal compression fitting hits the armor before it can screw down all the way. An extension is necessary to clear it for my fittings, but even my thinnest extension chipped the ek logo.
> 
> Really disappointing. Should have went with code.


You should probably have posted in the Asus Maximus X thread instead of here, that said the EK logo as you stated is too close to the G1/4 port but its only a matter of removing the logo to expose another flush EK logo underneath, I have no issues with my EK fittings around the VRM block but you may need extensions if using 16mm O/D fittings which has always been the case with recent Formula boards. No temperature issues with my VRM's either, perhaps you got a bad board.


----------



## Barefooter

scracy said:


> You should probably have posted in the Asus Maximus X thread instead of here, that said the EK logo as you stated is too close to the G1/4 port but its only a matter of removing the logo to expose another flush EK logo underneath, I have no issues with my EK fittings around the VRM block but you may need extensions if using 16mm O/D fittings which has always been the case with recent Formula boards. No temperature issues with my VRM's either, perhaps you got a bad board.


That looks really great! What coolant is that in there?


----------



## frankieskiller

Regarding the EK-FB Monoblock + a delidded i9 7980xe cpu:

At this point I'm thinking of removing the mosfet/inductor coils part of the block and having it machined. I did have a couple questions:

1. I assume the part of block I'm removing is just a solid piece of metal and no water runs through it? I figure I will be able to see once I remove it.
2. I'm thinking of having a machine shop machine it down 1mm on both the mosfet part of the block as well as the inductor coils part of the block. It's hard to say how much I should have it machined and maybe 1mm is too much?


----------



## scracy

Barefooter said:


> That looks really great! What coolant is that in there?


Thanks, I used EK blood red Cryofuel  in the picture you can see the EK logo on the VRM block which had another EK logo on top of it which does not allow any fitting to sit flush unless you remove it.


----------



## strong island 1

scracy said:


> You should probably have posted in the Asus Maximus X thread instead of here, that said the EK logo as you stated is too close to the G1/4 port but its only a matter of removing the logo to expose another flush EK logo underneath, I have no issues with my EK fittings around the VRM block but you may need extensions if using 16mm O/D fittings which has always been the case with recent Formula boards. No temperature issues with my VRM's either, perhaps you got a bad board.




its been happening to a couple people, not many people have the board so hasnt been talked about. I didnt even test my temps but just pulling block off shows that the thermal pads dont make contact. have to check temps underload, not just idle.

https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?98132-Maximus-X-Formula-VRM-Temp

thanks for letting me know about logo, was it hard to remove. Seems crazy to even have this discussion on such a beautiful expensive board.


----------



## scracy

strong island 1 said:


> its been happening to a couple people, not many people have the board so hasnt been talked about. I didnt even test my temps but just pulling block off shows that the thermal pads dont make contact. have to check temps underload, not just idle.
> 
> https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?98132-Maximus-X-Formula-VRM-Temp
> 
> thanks for letting me know about logo, was it hard to remove. Seems crazy to even have this discussion on such a beautiful expensive board.


Under OCCT large data sets my VRM's dont exceed 60 degrees C so its pretty much inline with the temps I got on my previous Maximus VIII Formula, the badge is easily removed but it is obviously an oversight on Asus's behalf, given there is an engraved recessed badge underneath I dont know why this badge was fitted in the first place. As far as not having clearance to the edges of the block that is the main reason why I used 12mm O/D tubing instead of 16mm O/D, as you stated earlier you can get around that issue by using a spacer. A bigger concern is not being able to monitor VRM temperatures with anything other than HWinfo since VRM temps are not present in the UEFI monitoring tab, it is something Raja from Asus has been very quiet about and has not been willing to answer, rumour has it some boards dont have the temperature sensor fitted.


----------



## strong island 1

scracy said:


> Under OCCT large data sets my VRM's dont exceed 60 degrees C so its pretty much inline with the temps I got on my previous Maximus VIII Formula, the badge is easily removed but it is obviously an oversight on Asus's behalf, given there is an engraved recessed badge underneath I dont know why this badge was fitted in the first place. As far as not having clearance to the edges of the block that is the main reason why I used 12mm O/D tubing instead of 16mm O/D, as you stated earlier you can get around that issue by using a spacer. A bigger concern is not being able to monitor VRM temperatures with anything other than HWinfo since VRM temps are not present in the UEFI monitoring tab, it is something Raja from Asus has been very quiet about and has not been willing to answer, rumour has it some boards dont have the temperature sensor fitted.


Ya I did a terrible job planning my build. Either I have to use the fractal r6 and not use vrm block or use view 71 and use vrm block. cant make up my mind. My 16mm od right angle fitting would clear my top rad in the r6 by itself, but do to the armor I have to use an extension and that little extension makes it so I cant clear my rad and fans in the r6.

i still love the board though, so I might just skip the vrm block.

I have almost the same exact clearance as you. it looks like you just made it with the top vrm fitting, with an extension it would stick too far out. Should have went with 12mm but I spent way too much on phanteks fittings and tubing and tools to switch now.


----------



## DarthBaggins

What about using a 90 off the VRM block and connect the extension off the 90 and place the 16mm fitting on the extension, if that would clear the armor since I know the 16mm fitting is probably the part that is causing the conflict.


----------



## strong island 1

DarthBaggins said:


> What about using a 90 off the VRM block and connect the extension off the 90 and place the 16mm fitting on the extension, if that would clear the armor since I know the 16mm fitting is probably the part that is causing the conflict.


yes I think that might work, these phantek fittings are very chunky though. Stupid me I only bought the 90 degree 16mm fittings and forgot to buy any 90 degree extensions. 

but I have a feeling since I am trying with 90 degree rotary 16mm fittings that the rotary part of the 90 degree extension is just as wide as the 90 degree fitting, and doesnt clear the armor to screw down properly. I can fit a 90 degree fitting by itself and it doesnt hit rad but the base is so wide that it cant screw down.

I guess I could use 1 bitspower 90 for that one port, hopefully it wont look bad.


edit - should have said this shorter. It's actually not the 16mm fitting that is causing the issue, it's the base of the 16mm fitting I chose, I think the base of the rotary extensions are similar in size.


----------



## MNMadman

Got my ASRock X399 monoblock today! Some glamour shots below...


----------



## Barefooter

@akira749 just letting EK know that if you made a water block for the Intel 900P SSD I would buy one.

I did ask awhile back about this. Still no plans for one?


----------



## strong island 1

MNMadman said:


> Got my ASRock X399 monoblock today! Some glamour shots below...


wow thats beautiful


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Too bad they only look cool


----------



## MNMadman

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Too bad they only look cool


Not anymore. They have much-improved performance with the new redesigned cooling engine. We only have the one quick "review" by nycgtr with the new cooling engine on the monoblock, which will naturally have higher temps than a CPU-only block.

Only Bitspower has monoblocks that we could compare, and nobody has done that yet.

The redesigned EK CPU-only block may be the equal of the Raystorm Neo and Heatkiller IV blocks, or at least very close.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Not the case for the x299 series mine was trash.


----------



## MNMadman

@akira749

Early-adopter issue:

ASRock X399 Monoblock -- M2.5x5 DIN7985 screws for VRM area don't actually screw into the block posts. The threads in the posts are too big and the screws just rotate without touching. Thankfully the pressure from the four socket screws is enough to ensure full VRM contact.

-----

Temp results for *Heatripper Threadkiller* from a one-hour RealBench v2.56 (uses AVX) run with 32GB RAM selected:

CPU: 68.0ºC peak Tdie
VRM: 69.0ºC peak
GPU: 28ºC peak
Coolant: 24.4ºC peak (XSPC inline temp sensor w/ LCD screen)
CPU, VRM, GPU temps taken from HWiNFO64 5.72-3333
Loop order: Res > Pump > Temp Sensor > GPU > CPU/VRM > Res

FYI: One of my nine rad fans is defective. Temps may get even better when I replace it.

Peak power from the wall was 640W (Kill A Watt EZ meter).


----------



## Danman980

Gee there is a big difference in cpu to gpu temps. 
Is that something your worried about? Or is that normal for a Threadripper chip?


----------



## Juris

Need some help finishing my Raijintek Paean build and need someone to help me justify the madness of buying even more EK components. I need another 360 rad to go with with the current PE360 + PE240 (eventually there will be triple 290x's and possibly the Ryzen 1600 under water) and I was debating between another PE360 or the XE360. A bit worried if the added restriction of the XE360 will have a negative effect but performance of the XE does seem better from reviews. The pump is an Alphacool VPP655 Single Edition and the x8 fans are Thermaltake Riing's so low RPM. 

Which do you guys reckon for this setup, PE or XE. Cheers.


----------



## MNMadman

Danman980 said:


> Gee there is a big difference in cpu to gpu temps.
> Is that something your worried about? Or is that normal for a Threadripper chip?


AVX is the most difficult instruction set for CPUs currently. Not surprising at all, for any CPU.

For gaming or non-AVX tasks, the difference would be much smaller.


----------



## Amphetamine

Installed my 1st custom loop a few weeks ago and it's running all of this:

EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
EK-FB GA Z270/Z370 GAMING RGB Monoblock - Nickel
2x EK-CoolStream CE 420

Just cooling a delidded 8700k @ 5.1ghz for the moment.

My 1080 FE already had an EVGA AIO on it from my previous install, so seemed like it would have been a waste to get a block for it. Next GPU upgrade will be on the loop though as I've had the 1080 for nearly 2 years now and want more power.


----------



## Solarity

Anyone happen to know the Tube specs on the EK SE360? i.e thickness and width

I didn't see it in a couple google searches, on EK's website or on reviews.


----------



## svx94

MNMadman said:


> Sometimes, the fit can be weird. But only if there is a defect in manufacturing. Or, if you delid. The tolerances are very tight.
> 
> There is no "much poor CPU temp" with monoblocks. There may be a difference of 5ºC if you have a poor loop, but if you have enough radiator and fans for it all the difference in CPU temp will be minimal to none.
> 
> Good airflow is worse than monoblock. Every. Single. Time. Dedicated VRM block does work better, but only if they make one. Which in my case (X399 Taichi) they don't.
> 
> The benefits FAR outweigh the drawbacks.


Thanks for the comment! I think we agreed on all facts, but used quite different language to conclude. 5ºC increase for CPU is huge to me. And YES, airflow (to cool VRM) is no match to water, but I think the VRM is designed to operate at higher temp. By sharing the same block, the CPU and VRM temp tend to equalize, which may not be good to overall performance. If I were serious about performance, I would definitely have a different block for VRM, and on a different loop.


----------



## frankieskiller

svx94 said:


> Thanks for the comment! I think we agreed on all facts, but used quite different language to conclude. 5ºC increase for CPU is huge to me. And YES, airflow (to cool VRM) is no match to water, but I think the VRM is designed to operate at higher temp. By sharing the same block, the CPU and VRM temp tend to equalize, which may not be good to overall performance. If I were serious about performance, I would definitely have a different block for VRM, and on a different loop.


Unfortunately, EK doesn't make a separate VRM block for X299 but, I did find a couple options. There is the Koolance MRV-100 and the Watercool Heatkiller SW-X blocks. I ordered the Koolance MVR-100 universal waterblock which I should have by Friday which should work perfect. I'll post my findings this weekend. I wanted a raw copper Watercool Heatkiller but, they didn't have one that had a bottom plate the size I needed.


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's where I'm glad the used x99 Deluxe I bought a while back had a vrm block premounted from the previous owner but he never ran fluid through it. Would say it would be nice if they did that for x299 since I've debated on moving to it (either the 7820x or 7900x)


----------



## Ashcroft

Solarity said:


> Anyone happen to know the Tube specs on the EK SE360? i.e thickness and width
> 
> I didn't see it in a couple google searches, on EK's website or on reviews.


I think its 16mm x 1.5mm internal diameter. They are more restrictive than most rads that have a 2mm ID


----------



## akira749

Sorry for the delay I was away for a little time.

Did you open a support ticket regarding this issue? I haven't heard anything that would say that it's a spreaded issue.



MNMadman said:


> @akira749
> 
> Early-adopter issue:
> 
> ASRock X399 Monoblock -- M2.5x5 DIN7985 screws for VRM area don't actually screw into the block posts. The threads in the posts are too big and the screws just rotate without touching. Thankfully the pressure from the four socket screws is enough to ensure full VRM contact.
> 
> -----
> 
> Temp results for *Heatripper Threadkiller* from a one-hour RealBench v2.56 (uses AVX) run with 32GB RAM selected:
> 
> CPU: 68.0ºC peak Tdie
> VRM: 69.0ºC peak
> GPU: 28ºC peak
> Coolant: 24.4ºC peak (XSPC inline temp sensor w/ LCD screen)
> CPU, VRM, GPU temps taken from HWiNFO64 5.72-3333
> Loop order: Res > Pump > Temp Sensor > GPU > CPU/VRM > Res
> 
> FYI: One of my nine rad fans is defective. Temps may get even better when I replace it.
> 
> Peak power from the wall was 640W (Kill A Watt EZ meter).


----------



## MNMadman

akira749 said:


> Did you open a support ticket regarding this issue? I haven't heard anything that would say that it's a spreaded issue.


No, I didn't. I'm happy with a 30ºC or better improvement in VRM temps, depending on the stress test -- and that's without those screws mounted. The four socket screws provide enough pressure to get good VRM contact/pressure.


----------



## akira749

MNMadman said:


> No, I didn't. I'm happy with a 30ºC or better improvement in VRM temps, depending on the stress test -- and that's without those screws mounted. The four socket screws provide enough pressure to get good VRM contact/pressure.


Ok good but remember that if you ever encounter a temp issue that could be due to the non-screwed posts, you can always open a ticket and we'll be able to help out. :thumb:


----------



## SteezyTN

Just recently ordered the Dual D5 PWM Pump. Never used an EK branded D5 before, so let’s see how this goes. I’m actually super excited about it!


----------



## Jsunn

I recently noticed this on EK's website about EK Cryofuel:

"Not compatible with Mayhems Blitz cleaning solution!"

Is there a cleaning solution or method that EK recommends? 
I have used Blitz Part 2 to clean my loop between flushes and haven't had any issues, but since they are now outright stating that it isn't compatible, what can I use to clean my loop out for the next flush? 

Thank you!
-Jason


----------



## KCDC

Jsunn said:


> I recently noticed this on EK's website about EK Cryofuel:
> 
> "Not compatible with Mayhems Blitz cleaning solution!"
> 
> Is there a cleaning solution or method that EK recommends?
> I have used Blitz Part 2 to clean my loop between flushes and haven't had any issues, but since they are now outright stating that it isn't compatible, what can I use to clean my loop out for the next flush?
> 
> Thank you!
> -Jason



For the rads, if it's a complete teardown, I like to soak them over a weekend with hot water, then vinegar/water, then baking soda/water to neutralize and then 90% iso alcohol soak overnight. Last time I did that I had zero leftover anything, it just takes some time. You would be fine with just vinegar, hot water and baking soda. I did the alcohol to make sure everything was gone (prepping for Vue fluid). Also alcohol can be dangerous for a loop if it's not 100% drained from the rads (breaks down acrylic/plexi in a metter of seconds), so keep that in mind. Having a blower is also handy to blow out any residual fluid!


----------



## DarthBaggins

SteezyTN said:


> Just recently ordered the Dual D5 PWM Pump. Never used an EK branded D5 before, so let’s see how this goes. I’m actually super excited about it!


I'm using dual PWM D5's in my Enthoo Pro M SE build, finally finished the runs in the base so I can finish the loop.


----------



## Eze2kiel

Does anyone have experience modifying or making a new top cover for the VGA EK Supremacy BE block and converting it into EVO for CPU?


----------



## frankieskiller

frankieskiller said:


> Unfortunately, EK doesn't make a separate VRM block for X299 but, I did find a couple options. There is the Koolance MRV-100 and the Watercool Heatkiller SW-X blocks. I ordered the Koolance MVR-100 universal waterblock which I should have by Friday which should work perfect. I'll post my findings this weekend. I wanted a raw copper Watercool Heatkiller but, they didn't have one that had a bottom plate the size I needed.


The Koolance MVR-100 did the trick! I've only performed a couple stress tests but, the mosfets hovered around 65C and the CPU around 75C with a 4.4GHZ overclock. The stock size of the transfer plate was pretty big so I cut, grinded and polished it down the size I needed. Gotta love the raw polished copper!

Don't judge too harshly on my tube configuration since it was my first loop. I'm going to replacing it all with rigid tubing anyway


----------



## MNMadman

frankieskiller said:


> The Koolance MVR-100 did the trick! I've only performed a couple stress tests but, the mosfets hovered around 65C and the CPU around 75C with a 4.4GHZ overclock. The stock size of the transfer plate was pretty big so I cut, grinded and polished it down the size I needed. Gotta love the raw polished copper!


Very nice! Might have to do this myself in the future. Mine would be complicated by a mainboard mounting screw in the middle of the MOSFETs though, which is why I'm hoping somebody will make a VRM block specifically for my board.


----------



## frankieskiller

MNMadman said:


> Very nice! Might have to do this myself in the future. Mine would be complicated by a mainboard mounting screw in the middle of the MOSFETs though, which is why I'm hoping somebody will make a VRM block specifically for my board.


The MB mounting screw is in the middle of the mosfets? Weird. What MB do you have?


----------



## MNMadman

frankieskiller said:


> The MB mounting screw is in the middle of the mosfets? Weird. What MB do you have?


Never mind -- I re-checked and it's not. It just appears that way from above on the monoblock. I had forgotten and was just going on looks. I've got an ASRock X399 Taichi.


----------



## frankieskiller

MNMadman said:


> Sometimes, the fit can be weird. But only if there is a defect in manufacturing. Or, if you delid. The tolerances are very tight.
> 
> There is no "much poor CPU temp" with monoblocks. There may be a difference of 5ºC if you have a poor loop, but if you have enough radiator and fans for it all the difference in CPU temp will be minimal to none.
> 
> Good airflow is worse than monoblock. Every. Single. Time. Dedicated VRM block does work better, but only if they make one. Which in my case (X399 Taichi) they don't.
> 
> The benefits FAR outweigh the drawbacks.


Took some time because I had to cut, grind, sand and polish the heat transfer plate but, it was 100% worth installing the Koolance MVR 100. It really is a nice piece of hardware. Only thing left to do is replace the flexible tubes with rigid ones.

i9 7980xe OC @ 4.4ghz - 1.15 volt

* Stress testing was done using 32 of 36 cpu threads (this is so I can still work while rendering). Next is to stress test using Prime95 and batch rendering using all threads.

Before (Stock MSI mosfet heatsink)
CPU - 75 to 80C
Mosfets - 85 to 120C

After (Koolance MVR 100 added to mosfets)
CPU - 65 to 70C!
Mosfets - 65 to 70C!


----------



## ThrashZone

HI,
Yeah probably get more effective flow too verses a mono block


----------



## frankieskiller

ThrashZone said:


> HI,
> Yeah probably get more effective flow too verses a mono block


Agreed. I never really liked the idea of the monoblock but, at the time it was the only option I knew of. I'm going to take some photos of the entire loop tonight but, I'm a little reluctant because the tube routing looks tangled. Can't wait to replace it all with the rigid ones.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I'm liking flex piping makes it so much easier to change thermal paste


----------



## frankieskiller

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I'm liking flex piping makes it so much easier to change thermal paste


Ah, another good point! I didn't think how much of a pain it would be to replace paste or thermal pads.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Did you post an image of how the water channel looks on that vrm cooler ?


----------



## frankieskiller

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Did you post an image of how the water channel looks on that vrm cooler ?


You mean a close up shot without the fittings? Not sure. I'll look tonight.


----------



## frankieskiller

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Did you post an image of how the water channel looks on that vrm cooler ?


Is this what you meant? It's all I got at this point.


----------



## ThrashZone

frankieskiller said:


> Is this what you meant? It's all I got at this point.


Hi,
With the nickel one flipped to see the back side of it 
Can't see where the water flows through it seeing the copper plate has 4 screws on it can't seem to picture how the water channel is.


----------



## frankieskiller

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> With the nickel one flipped to see the back side of it
> Can't see where the water flows through it seeing the copper plate has 4 screws on it can't seem to picture how the water channel is.


Gotcha. Only the outer screw holes on the copper plate are used. I think the inner screw holes are for a smaller universal block. The bottom of the block is flat with 2 screw holes on the very ends where they don't go through the water channel. I used thermal paste between the block and the copper plate and a thermal pad between the copper and the mosfets. A nicely stacked cooling sandwich


----------



## tistou77

frankieskiller said:


> Took some time because I had to cut, grind, sand and polish the heat transfer plate but, it was 100% worth installing the Koolance MVR 100. It really is a nice piece of hardware. Only thing left to do is replace the flexible tubes with rigid ones.
> 
> i9 7980xe OC @ 4.4ghz - 1.15 volt
> 
> * Stress testing was done using 32 of 36 cpu threads (this is so I can still work while rendering). Next is to stress test using Prime95 and batch rendering using all threads.
> 
> Before (Stock MSI mosfet heatsink)
> CPU - 75 to 80C
> Mosfets - 85 to 120C
> 
> After (Koolance MVR 100 added to mosfets)
> CPU - 65 to 70C!
> Mosfets - 65 to 70C!


For me, with WB Watercool for VRM and 7980XE @4.6ghz - 1.125v, VRM temperature at ~54°C with Realbench


----------



## frankieskiller

tistou77 said:


> For me, with WB Watercool for VRM and 7980XE @4.6ghz - 1.125v, VRM temperature at ~54°C with Realbench


Ah, that block looks really nice. I think I need to do a bit more tuning in the bios because it looks like I can lower the voltage? Since getting the proper loop I haven't tried a higher overclock.


----------



## ThrashZone

frankieskiller said:


> Gotcha. Only the outer screw holes on the copper plate are used. I think the inner screw holes are for a smaller universal block. The bottom of the block is flat with 2 screw holes on the very ends where they don't go through the water channel. I used thermal paste between the block and the copper plate and a thermal pad between the copper and the mosfets. A nicely stacked cooling sandwich


Hi,
Thanks :thumb:


----------



## frankieskiller

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Thanks :thumb:


I sure hope that makes sense! I posted right after I woke up.


----------



## frankieskiller

tistou77 said:


> For me, with WB Watercool for VRM and 7980XE @4.6ghz - 1.125v, VRM temperature at ~54°C with Realbench


Oh jeez, I need to lower my voltage. Silicon Lottery binning suggested 4.4GHZ @ 1.112V. That should really lower temps.


----------



## ThrashZone

frankieskiller said:


> I sure hope that makes sense! I posted right after I woke up.


HI,
Pretty clear 
What is not clear is how you monitored you vrm temps ?
hwmonitor/ hwinfo ?
And which listings are the vrms if so


----------



## frankieskiller

ThrashZone said:


> HI,
> Pretty clear
> What is not clear is how you monitored you vrm temps ?
> hwmonitor/ hwinfo ?
> And which listings are the vrms if so


Haha. Using hwinfo. There were several vrm listings and I monitored the ones that were changing and getting hot. I'll get more info for you this evening.


----------



## ThrashZone

frankieskiller said:


> Haha. Using hwinfo. There were several vrm listings and I monitored the ones that were changing and getting hot. I'll get more info for you this evening.


Hi,
Much appreciated I'm a knob 
I believe it's in here some where ?

Hi,
I found it on x299 listed as VRM go figure lol Oops 
x99 though all I see is PCH :/


----------



## Archea47

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> With the nickel one flipped to see the back side of it
> Can't see where the water flows through it seeing the copper plate has 4 screws on it can't seem to picture how the water channel is.


 It's essentially a nickel-plated copper tube/pipe, the koolance that is. And bolts to a copper plate, which cools the VRMs via thermal pad. 

No fins if that's what you're asking. It's very effective IME (see signature 990fx VRM link). If you look at full cover wateblocks on video cards I can't recall any modern ones with fins on the VRMs and they can service a comparable amount of current


----------



## frankieskiller

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Much appreciated I'm a knob
> I believe it's in here some where ?
> 
> Hi,
> I found it on x299 listed as VRM go figure lol Oops
> x99 though all I see is PCH :/


Yeah, I'm new to overclocking aside from pressing the fast button on the motherboard. Are you sure you don't have some information hidden in hwdinfo? Info on my system is pages long....


----------



## frankieskiller

Archea47 said:


> It's essentially a nickel-plated copper tube/pipe, the koolance that is. And bolts to a copper plate, which cools the VRMs via thermal pad.
> 
> No fins if that's what you're asking. It's very effective IME (see signature 990fx VRM link). If you look at full cover wateblocks on video cards I can't recall any modern ones with fins on the VRMs and they can service a comparable amount of current


In my case the copper plate started out as nickle plated. Didn't take much to get down to the copper though.


----------



## frankieskiller

tistou77 said:


> For me, with WB Watercool for VRM and 7980XE @4.6ghz - 1.125v, VRM temperature at ~54°C with Realbench


I'm probably getting off topic but, my voltages where too high. I should have been 1.115 v, not 1.15. I boosted the clocks to 4.6ghz and it seems to be stable @ 1.15. I tried 1.35 but, it would hang under stress. I'm wondering what other settings I can adjust in the bios. Needless to say my temps are even lower after adjusting voltages.


----------



## ThrashZone

frankieskiller said:


> Yeah, I'm new to overclocking aside from pressing the fast button on the motherboard. Are you sure you don't have some information hidden in hwdinfo? Info on my system is pages long....


Hi,
Not sure but all listings show yes
Hidden box is clear so yeah very weird no way to say if there's an issue or not with x99 vrm temps :/


----------



## Eze2kiel




----------



## frankieskiller

Eze2kiel said:


>


I'm hoping there's a golden ticket in there somewhere.

Let's see those shiny new bits!


----------



## kevindd992002

What would I be losing (aside from assurance) if I don't use a stop plug on one end of my drain valve? My problem is if I install a stop plug in the drain assembly, my back side panel won't close.


----------



## ThrashZone

kevindd992002 said:


> What would I be losing (aside from assurance) if I don't use a stop plug on one end of my drain valve? My problem is if I install a stop plug in the drain assembly, my back side panel won't close.


Hi,
Ball valve might leak.


----------



## kevindd992002

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Ball valve might leak.


Yeah, that's the "assurance" I'm talking about. Aside from that, nothing else?


----------



## zipeldiablo

Hey guys.
So i have issue with my pre-filled waterblock (algae rust etc) so ek proposed to take it into rma AND replace my predator (since it will have suffer too !) with their new phoenix mlc.

I was thinking, why not try to upgrade to a full open loop with a p360 kit (even if i need to throw some money in order to do that).
The only think that prevented me from doing so in the past was the fact that with the predator, if something leaks they will pay for your dead hardware.
But it seems that watercooling with compression fitting is kinda safe and shouldn't leak without fitting, block of tubing failure (and again i assume that ek should cover that?)

What are your thoughts on this?
I mean, i could drain the loop and do the maintenance myself and it sure will look nicer.


----------



## Blze001

I'm embarking on a silly quest: I'm gonna wedge a full cooling loop in a Hadron Air using 2 of EK's slim 240 radiators and need a little bit of input.

Yes, I'm fully aware that even with the slim rads I'll have to use slim fans, and slim+slim = no bueno cooling, but this is more an exercise in "can it be done" with a 4 year old rig that's already payed for itself in terms of entertainment provided.

I've already bought one slim rad and ensured it fits no problem top and bottom, determined I have to use the 12mm Scythe fans up top to clear the mobo, and probably the 15mm Noctua fans down below. I removed the 1U PSU awhile ago and I've been using a front-mounted SFX one, but I'm probably gonna relocate that above the CPU and mount the pump/res up front.

My question now is what kind of pump-res combo to go with. Obviously my pocketbook wants the SPC, but I'm wondering if I should go for a D5 to make up for the slim rads and plethora of 90 fittings I'm likely to need to fit everything. I'm planning on EK's GPU block for my 1070, and I already have an Optimus block for my CPU.

Also, has anyone removed the DVI plug on a 1070? That'd make it a hair bigger than a single-slot and might let me use thicker fans on the bottom rad.

I should mention this is my first attempt a custom full loop, because I hate myself and take the hardest route on everything.


----------



## RichKnecht

Blze001 said:


> I'm embarking on a silly quest: I'm gonna wedge a full cooling loop in a Hadron Air using 2 of EK's slim 240 radiators and need a little bit of input.
> 
> Yes, I'm fully aware that even with the slim rads I'll have to use slim fans, and slim+slim = no bueno cooling, but this is more an exercise in "can it be done" with a 4 year old rig that's already payed for itself in terms of entertainment provided.
> 
> I've already bought one slim rad and ensured it fits no problem top and bottom, determined I have to use the 12mm Scythe fans up top to clear the mobo, and probably the 15mm Noctua fans down below. I removed the 1U PSU awhile ago and I've been using a front-mounted SFX one, but I'm probably gonna relocate that above the CPU and mount the pump/res up front.
> 
> My question now is what kind of pump-res combo to go with. Obviously my pocketbook wants the SPC, but I'm wondering if I should go for a D5 to make up for the slim rads and plethora of 90 fittings I'm likely to need to fit everything. I'm planning on EK's GPU block for my 1070, and I already have an Optimus block for my CPU.
> 
> Also, has anyone removed the DVI plug on a 1070? That'd make it a hair bigger than a single-slot and might let me use thicker fans on the bottom rad.
> 
> I should mention this is my first attempt a custom full loop, because I hate myself and take the hardest route on everything.


I would go for a D5 pump/res combo. I have the 140RGB version and I think it's the ideal size. You can always turn down flow on the pump via the MB. I have 2 240mm PE radiators and an evo full nickle block and have my pump set on 70% flow.


----------



## enkur

Just completed R5 re-build using hard line tubing. This is my first attempt at hard line tubing, been doing soft loops for a while. I am just glad no tube bending was involved


----------



## frankieskiller

Looking great! Nice and clean.


----------



## Ashcroft

zipeldiablo said:


> Hey guys.
> So i have issue with my pre-filled waterblock (algae rust etc) so ek proposed to take it into rma AND replace my predator (since it will have suffer too !) with their new phoenix mlc.
> 
> I was thinking, why not try to upgrade to a full open loop with a p360 kit (even if i need to throw some money in order to do that).
> The only think that prevented me from doing so in the past was the fact that with the predator, if something leaks they will pay for your dead hardware.
> But it seems that watercooling with compression fitting is kinda safe and shouldn't leak without fitting, block of tubing failure (and again i assume that ek should cover that?)
> 
> What are your thoughts on this?
> I mean, i could drain the loop and do the maintenance myself and it sure will look nicer.



Ive never heard of EK ever covering any hardware from potential damage.


----------



## zipeldiablo

Ashcroft said:


> Ive never heard of EK ever covering any hardware from potential damage.


I did, pretty sure it was on this forum also.


----------



## Juris

Just wondering is this nickel EK Supremacy still safe to use. I had spotted others commenting that EK had an issue previously with nickel flaking on some of their blocks. Wondering if this is one of the culprits and if so is there anything I can or should do. Cheers.


----------



## ToxicTaZ2000

Juris said:


> Just wondering is this nickel EK Supremacy still safe to use. I had spotted others commenting that EK had an issue previously with nickel flaking on some of their blocks. Wondering if this is one of the culprits and if so is there anything I can or should do. Cheers.


I sure hope not! I'm using the new EK Supremacy RGB, so far so good.









Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## RichKnecht

ToxicTaZ2000 said:


> I sure hope not! I'm using the new EK Supremacy RGB, so far so good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


That's pretty slick! I wonder how the agrylic will hold up over time. I had an acrylic top EVO with red LEDs and after a while, it developed cracks and started to leak. I switched to the nickle top and all is good, but I sure do miss the lighting.


----------



## Juris

Lets be honest here. You only replied so you could show off pics of your new EK RGB block didn't you  Its a really nice block though but doesn't really answer my question.


----------



## ToxicTaZ2000

RichKnecht said:


> That's pretty slick! I wonder how the agrylic will hold up over time. I had an acrylic top EVO with red LEDs and after a while, it developed cracks and started to leak. I switched to the nickle top and all is good, but I sure do miss the lighting.


Cracking I hope not. I did think about it, that's why I went to 19mm/12mm Tubing to ease the pressure flow...because higher pressure from my D5 1500L/hr pump probably not good. If it does in the future I'll have to go pickup all nickel version.









Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## ToxicTaZ2000

Juris said:


> Lets be honest here. You only replied so you could show off pics of your new EK RGB block didn't you  Its a really nice block though but doesn't really answer my question.


Maybe lol, I in the same boat as you, just a curious. Since EK Supremacy series has been out since 2012 and now 2018 they would have revised it a few times by now? One would hope? 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Kokin

What caused the plating to come off your CPU block? I've been using my Swiftech Apogee Drive II with various EK Nickel/Plexi GPU blocks and Mayhem's Pastel coolant for many years without any type of corrosion or discoloration issues.

Reason I'm asking is I'm about to install the Supremacy EVO RGB block with the 1080Ti FTW3 block (both Nickel/Plexi) and a Phanteks Glacier R160 (Nickel/Acrylic).


----------



## emsj86

ToxicTaZ2000 said:


> RichKnecht said:
> 
> 
> 
> That's pretty slick! I wonder how the agrylic will hold up over time. I had an acrylic top EVO with red LEDs and after a while, it developed cracks and started to leak. I switched to the nickle top and all is good, but I sure do miss the lighting.
> 
> 
> 
> Cracking I hope not. I did think about it, that's why I went to 19mm/12mm Tubing to ease the pressure flow...because higher pressure from my D5 1500L/hr pump probably not good. If it does in the future I'll have to go pickup all nickel version.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cracks are not from flow but from usually over tight fittings or for me my primochill revolver fittings must have been alittle thick on the threads as it would crack (not leak but spider cracks) around the threads. Since using bitspower haven’t had this problem. Either way you can buy a replacement plexi top
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

 top cost 12.99


----------



## Juris

ToxicTaZ2000 said:


> Maybe lol, I in the same boat as you, just a curious. Since EK Supremacy series has been out since 2012 and now 2018 they would have revised it a few times by now? One would hope?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Yep I think like anything else there are usually a few teething issues and things can go wrong. I had heard a few years ago some batches were made with thinner nickel plating than others which was rectified by EK so nobody buying today should have any concern of the nickel flaking. They've long since sorted it.



Kokin said:


> What caused the plating to come off your CPU block? I've been using my Swiftech Apogee Drive II with various EK Nickel/Plexi GPU blocks and Mayhem's Pastel coolant for many years without any type of corrosion or discoloration issues.
> 
> Reason I'm asking is I'm about to install the Supremacy EVO RGB block with the 1080Ti FTW3 block (both Nickel/Plexi) and a Phanteks Glacier R160 (Nickel/Acrylic).


Honestly install away. I reckon my older block might have been part of a known batch of thin plated nickel blocks. The screws on the back of the plate don't sit flush with the block either which is a bit of a giveaway it was part of that batch now that I've done a bit more googling on it. Your EVO RGB will be perfectly fine/awesome looking. Go for it and enjoy the shininess.


----------



## trn

kevindd992002 said:


> Yeah, that's the "assurance" I'm talking about. Aside from that, nothing else?


That's it. I've had a leaky ball valve and using a stopper held it from leaking further.


----------



## Blze001

RichKnecht said:


> I would go for a D5 pump/res combo. I have the 140RGB version and I think it's the ideal size. You can always turn down flow on the pump via the MB. I have 2 240mm PE radiators and an evo full nickle block and have my pump set on 70% flow.


Alright, thanks for the input. I went with the 100mm version since saying space is at a premium is a massive understatement with this build.

Another quick question: for tight spaces that will need some tight turns, should I just go with hard tubing and 90deg adapters? I feel like with tight spaces, soft tubing would be in real danger of kinking. I'm thinking of taking advantage of a friend who works in plumbing to get my hands on some 5/8" soft copper tubing.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Just use 10-16mm fittings and soft tubing instead of 10-13mm


----------



## Jyve

Ashcroft said:


> zipeldiablo said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys.
> So i have issue with my pre-filled waterblock (algae rust etc) so ek proposed to take it into rma AND replace my predator (since it will have suffer too !) with their new phoenix mlc.
> 
> I was thinking, why not try to upgrade to a full open loop with a p360 kit (even if i need to throw some money in order to do that).
> The only think that prevented me from doing so in the past was the fact that with the predator, if something leaks they will pay for your dead hardware.
> But it seems that watercooling with compression fitting is kinda safe and shouldn't leak without fitting, block of tubing failure (and again i assume that ek should cover that?)
> 
> What are your thoughts on this?
> I mean, i could drain the loop and do the maintenance myself and it sure will look nicer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ive never heard of EK ever covering any hardware from potential damage.
Click to expand...

They absolutely covered damaged hardware with leak issues from the predator. Check out that thread for some accounts of how well they handled the situation. All things considered.


----------



## SteezyTN

I can’t believe how quiet the Dual D5 Revo is. I just need to figure out how I’m going to mount it in my case. I had it running on a wooden table to test it, and it was quiet when I held it... but the vibration and humming got kind of annoying. Any ideas on things to dampen the vibration? Of course it was max speed, so I’m sure it’s quieter on low.

Edit* I mounted it to my radiator in my Caselabs SMA8, and oh my... it’s so quiet. Just the simple humming, which is completely normal though... but quiet, YES! Much quieter than my previous pumps.

The tubing is just temporary. I’m just leak testing my reservoirs.


----------



## kevindd992002

So I just finished putting my build together with all parts brand new. I filled it with distilled water just to do sort of a “test run” since this is my first time handling watercooling loops.

I've got an EK-FC GTX 1080Ti FTW3 waterblock in the loop and noticed a few foreign objects in it. I'm not even sure if I really need to concerned about them but here's reference pic:










I encircled the areas where I'm concerned. So should I really be concerned about those? I've used Mayhems Blitz Part 1 on my Black Ice Nemesis GTS rads before I even built my loop so those are squeaky clean. All parts are brand new too. And now my loop is running on the Blitz Part 2 to do some extra cleaning.

EDIT: Another area with some light green in it:










I'm not sure if all these areas come in contact with the water anyway.

Take note, the only liquid that was in this block is distilled water and was run for only one hour yesterday. And now it is running Blitz Part 2.


----------



## enkur

you can always open up the block and clean it out. I usually rinse with distilled water all new components regardless of the manufacturer instructions. It cant hurt.
You can use a few drops of white vinegar with distilled water and it will usually get rid of any contaminants.


----------



## kevindd992002

enkur said:


> you can always open up the block and clean it out. I usually rinse with distilled water all new components regardless of the manufacturer instructions. It cant hurt.
> You can use a few drops of white vinegar with distilled water and it will usually get rid of any contaminants.


I see. This is my first time so I don't have much experience. Is there a guide for the disassembly instructions? I know I read in EK's website to never use vinegar or lemon juice for nickel-plated blocks. If this is indeed algae, then I think rinsing it with distilled water is enough. 

I just want to know where those came from. I did all that is required (and did not cut corners) in setting this whole thing up yet when I rinse the loop with distilled water, then this. I just want to lay the information about the interval between using Blitz Part 1 and Part 2 though. I used Blitz Part 1 in my rads around Feb. 13 and wasn't able to put the whole loop together (for various reasons) until yesterday March 30. So could it be that when I flushed the radiators with distilled water, there was a few leftover there and during a span of 1.5 months algae built up? And then when it's time for me to recirculate distilled water to the whole loop yesterday, it picked that algae up?

All I can say is that based from the pictures I got before putting liquid, I don't see these contaminants there.


----------



## zipeldiablo

So you guys are rinsing fittings and tubing too?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah I believe ek has bad assembly practice
Ship items without plugs.....


----------



## SteezyTN

Can I use the third port on the Dual Revo D5 as a drain port?


----------



## ToxicTaZ2000

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah I believe ek has bad assembly practice
> Ship items without plugs.....


All my EK had plugs!

What did you get without a plug? 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## kevindd992002

Anyone can help me with my post above?


----------



## ThrashZone

ToxicTaZ2000 said:


> All my EK had plugs!
> 
> What did you get without a plug?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Hi,
Nothing came with plugs radiators/ cpu blocks/ gpu blocks/ pumps/ soft pipe.


----------



## MNMadman

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nothing came with plugs radiators/ cpu blocks/ gpu blocks/ pumps/ soft pipe.


EK CPU blocks don't come with plugs. They only have two ports.

EK radiators don't come with plugs. They only have two ports.

EK GPU blocks should come with two ports open and two ports plugged.

EK pumps/reservoirs come with two ports open and the rest plugged. If there are only two ports, there will be no plugs.


----------



## ToxicTaZ2000

MNMadman said:


> EK CPU blocks don't come with plugs. They only have two ports.
> 
> EK radiators don't come with plugs. They only have two ports.
> 
> EK GPU blocks should come with two ports open and two ports plugged.
> 
> EK pumps/reservoirs come with two ports open and the rest plugged. If there are only two ports, there will be no plugs.


Sorry my EK water block did not come with plugs but both of my RADs came with plugs!

My EK 420mm/45mm RAD & 140mm/45mm RAD pictures below. Also pictures of my EK Supremacy RGB water block.









Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## MNMadman

ToxicTaZ2000 said:


> Sorry my EK water block did not come with plugs but both of my RADs came with plugs!


I meant real plugs, not that plastic temporary crap.


----------



## jvillaveces

kevindd992002 said:


> Anyone can help me with my post above?


Please see my post in the Mayhems thread. I don't know where that stuff could have come from, but I think your first priority should be to ensure the blocks are fully functional, i.e. the waterpath is clear and they are airtight @5lbs. If they are, you have a cosmetic issue, not a functional one, so you can decide what to do accordingly. I'm not sure but I believe opening up the blocks voids your warranty, so it might be something to keep in mind if you want to RMA them.


----------



## Vlada011

I can't believe, I can't change country on my account from Serbia to Germany.
Friend should use my account, to pay some stuff for me with pay pal and they should be shipped in Germany. I made card with everything I need.
When I made account I thought he will easy change address after I create card.
I success to changed Street, Postal Code, City but damn Country, I can't get rid of Serbia in live and on papers.
Help.

Is it possible that I will need to create different account?


----------



## MNMadman

Vlada011 said:


> I can't believe, I can't change country on my account from Serbia to Germany.
> Friend should use my account, to pay some stuff for me with pay pal and they should be shipped in Germany. I made card with everything I need.
> When I made account I thought he will easy change address after I create card.
> I success to changed Street, Postal Code, City but damn Country, I can't get rid of Serbia in live and on papers.
> Help.
> 
> Is it possible that I will need to create different account?


Try Emailing their support.


----------



## kevindd992002

jvillaveces said:


> Please see my post in the Mayhems thread. I don't know where that stuff could have come from, but I think your first priority should be to ensure the blocks are fully functional, i.e. the waterpath is clear and they are airtight @5lbs. If they are, you have a cosmetic issue, not a functional one, so you can decide what to do accordingly. I'm not sure but I believe opening up the blocks voids your warranty, so it might be something to keep in mind if you want to RMA them.


I just replied in the Mayhems thread. I agree. From the looks of it, it's more of a cosmetic issue than a functional one but I still don't want seeing any algae in there. I know this is not a problem for most people especially for the ones with Acetal blocks as they don't tend to see the insides of the blocks. But yes, my OCD is kicking and I just want to clean them before running them fully with Pastel. I mean, now that I already cleaned them with Blitz Part 2, why don't I remove those debris that got stuck in the blocks so that everything is fresh.

According to EK's website, opening the GPU blocks would not void the warranty but will void the leak-free guarantee.


----------



## Vlada011

MNMadman said:


> Try Emailing their support.


I send them mail but they didn't answered me because it's weekend.
I expect Monday-Thusday answer.


----------



## SteezyTN

I don’t know if I’ve posted this yet, but oh my.... this Dual Revo D5 is by far the quietest pump(s) I’ve ever purchased. I have it at max speed, and it’s like 10 times more quiet than two pump combos (XSPC Photon D5s). Best EK purchase I’ve made... and my Titan X block and backplate 🙂


----------



## zipeldiablo

kevindd992002 said:


> I just replied in the Mayhems thread. I agree. From the looks of it, it's more of a cosmetic issue than a functional one but I still don't want seeing any algae in there. I know this is not a problem for most people especially for the ones with Acetal blocks as they don't tend to see the insides of the blocks. But yes, my OCD is kicking and I just want to clean them before running them fully with Pastel. I mean, now that I already cleaned them with Blitz Part 2, why don't I remove those debris that got stuck in the blocks so that everything is fresh.
> 
> According to EK's website, opening the GPU blocks would not void the warranty but will void the leak-free guarantee.


They have leak-free warranty on the blocks? damn
So i was right to refuse to open mine and send it to rma


----------



## kevindd992002

zipeldiablo said:


> They have leak-free warranty on the blocks? damn
> So i was right to refuse to open mine and send it to rma


https://www.ekwb.com/blog/how-to-clean-water-blocks/

What was wrong with you wb? And why wouldn't you want to open it?


----------



## zipeldiablo

kevindd992002 said:


> https://www.ekwb.com/blog/how-to-clean-water-blocks/
> 
> What was wrong with you wb? And why wouldn't you want to open it?


I had algae, rust (waterblock was nickel plated mind you) and the black plastic seal inside was coming off.
I bought a prefilled waterblock for my 1080ti to plug into a 360 predator, the all point of no going custom-loop was to have a leak-free warranty in case somethings bad happened, no way was i gonna go with the hassle of cleaning a block and voiding my warranty.
People don't buy aio to have to do maintenance, hence why i'm sending back everything (they will refund the predator as it most likely suffered from damaged too) and going custom loop, there is not much risks of leaks with a proper custom loop anyway and i will be able to do the maintenance 
(maitenance of the loop, i will keep sending back the waterblocks if i need to open them obviously)


Quick questions of the day, my waterblock https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-1080-gtx-ti-nickel have holes for 3mm diodes, what diodes do you guys advise to run there?
Also, is there a way to plug some diodes directly into the gpu ? 

About the reservoir for d5, i'm buying a used one and there is some foam + an anticyclone thingy, can i just remove the foam without touching the other thing? Would be great, pretty worried the foam will disintegrate like the one inside the predators did.


----------



## kevindd992002

zipeldiablo said:


> I had algae, rust (waterblock was nickel plated mind you) and the black plastic seal inside was coming off.
> I bought a prefilled waterblock for my 1080ti to plug into a 360 predator, the all point of no going custom-loop was to have a leak-free warranty in case somethings bad happened, no way was i gonna go with the hassle of cleaning a block and voiding my warranty.
> People don't buy aio to have to do maintenance, hence why i'm sending back everything (they will refund the predator as it most likely suffered from damaged too) and going custom loop, there is not much risks of leaks with a proper custom loop anyway and i will be able to do the maintenance
> (maitenance of the loop, i will keep sending back the waterblocks if i need to open them obviously)
> 
> 
> Quick questions of the day, my waterblock https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-1080-gtx-ti-nickel have holes for 3mm diodes, what diodes do you guys advise to run there?
> Also, is there a way to plug some diodes directly into the gpu ?
> 
> About the reservoir for d5, i'm buying a used one and there is some foam + an anticyclone thingy, can i just remove the foam without touching the other thing? Would be great, pretty worried the foam will disintegrate like the one inside the predators did.


Oh well, to each his own  You know how it is with OCN people, they tinker with all these things. Since I decided to join the watercooling bandwagon anyway, why not go full blast and start tinkering with all "custom" stuff.


----------



## zipeldiablo

kevindd992002 said:


> Oh well, to each his own  You know how it is with OCN people, they tinker with all these things. Since I decided to join the watercooling bandwagon anyway, why not go full blast and start tinkering with all "custom" stuff.


My need of having a leak-free warranty is greater than my OCN


----------



## kevindd992002

zipeldiablo said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, to each his own /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif You know how it is with OCN people, they tinker with all these things. Since I decided to join the watercooling bandwagon anyway, why not go full blast and start tinkering with all "custom" stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> My need of having a leak-free warranty is greater than my OCN /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
Click to expand...

Lol, nice one!


----------



## Ashcroft

zipeldiablo said:


> My need of having a leak-free warranty is greater than my OCN


You should not be afraid to open your water blocks. If you have any problems with them the first thing the support staff will tell you to do is open and clean them. At some point all blocks need to be cleaned properly. 
The leak proof 'guarantee' is more of an assurance or testing label than an actual guarantee. I don't know of any water cooling company that will provide any sort of compensation greater than a replacement block if it leaks and no warranty is voided by opening 

I've always been curious how people that build their own computers can be scared of opening water blocks. I assumed if you have the confidence to build a PC you can handle some simple screws and orings. They are very simple assemblys and easily tested for air tightness.


----------



## zipeldiablo

Ashcroft said:


> You should not be afraid to open your water blocks. If you have any problems with them the first thing the support staff will tell you to do is open and clean them. At some point all blocks need to be cleaned properly.
> The leak proof 'guarantee' is more of an assurance or testing label than an actual guarantee. I don't know of any water cooling company that will provide any sort of compensation greater than a replacement block if it leaks and no warranty is voided by opening
> 
> I've always been curious how people that build their own computers can be scared of opening water blocks. I assumed if you have the confidence to build a PC you can handle some simple screws and orings. They are very simple assemblys and easily tested for air tightness.


Well, ek does, at least they did it for their predator, i assume the warranty coming with the blocks is the same.
It's not about fear, it's about keeping my warranty.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

zipeldiablo said:


> Well, ek does, at least they did it for their predator, i assume the warranty coming with the blocks is the same.
> It's not about fear, it's about keeping my warranty.


I don't think there's a way they would be able to know if you opened up your waterblock or not...


----------



## kevindd992002

I just opened and cleaned mine. It was very easy. And yes, there is no warranty that will be voided. It's just that EK is saying that they cannot "guarantee" that the block will be leak-frew if you disassemble and reassemble it. These are two different things. So you don't need to worry about warranty if you decide to open it.


----------



## zipeldiablo

Meaning as long as the block doesn't leak when you fill your system that's on ek not you ?


----------



## Vlada011

This is my list of parts...
But than when they arrive I need to purchase screws and spacers of RVE10 Monoblock.


6x M2,5x5 3825040ax1
3x M2,5x7 3825040ax1 
4x washer POLYAMID M3 0,5mm 
6x washer POLYAMID M2,5 0,5mm 
7x washer POLYAMID M2.5 0,7mm self-adhesive

I think something, now I order parts from EKWB, 
I have Monoblock... but maybe I should add and one CPU Block universal, 
who knows if I change platform later I will need CPU Block???
Later I will need to pay shipping again and CPU block could be sold if don't need him???


----------



## kevindd992002

zipeldiablo said:


> Meaning as long as the block doesn't leak when you fill your system that's on ek not you ?


Yes and when it leaks it's on you because you already disassembled it. But there isn't even any sticker that breaks when you open disassemble the block so I'm thinking they are not that strict in this avenue.


----------



## zipeldiablo

kevindd992002 said:


> Yes and when it leaks it's on you because you already disassembled it. But there isn't even any sticker that breaks when you open disassemble the block so I'm thinking they are not that strict in this avenue.


But it is worth the risk, not sure


----------



## kevindd992002

zipeldiablo said:


> But it is worth the risk, not sure


Yup, like I said to each his own  For me, there isn't even any "risk" involved. I bet you feel the same way about CPU delidding


----------



## zipeldiablo

I only buy enthousiast cpu so there is no way i'm gonna delid a cpu i bought 1000+ euros 
But i can and will buy it directly delidded


----------



## kevindd992002

On another note, how can one clean an EK-Xtop Revo D5 PWM Pump? I'm done cleaning my CPU and GPU waterblocks. Now I want to make sure that the pump is free from any foreign objects even though they are just small.


----------



## KCDC

kevindd992002 said:


> On another note, how can one clean an EK-Xtop Revo D5 PWM Pump? I'm done cleaning my CPU and GPU waterblocks. Now I want to make sure that the pump is free from any foreign objects even though they are just small.


Once you take the pump top off, the impeller is only held with magnetic force, you can just pull it out. With that out, it's easy to clean everything.


----------



## kevindd992002

KCDC said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> On another note, how can one clean an EK-Xtop Revo D5 PWM Pump? I'm done cleaning my CPU and GPU waterblocks. Now I want to make sure that the pump is free from any foreign objects even though they are just small.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you take the pump top off, the impeller is only held with magnetic force, you can just pull it out. With that out, it's easy to clean everything.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's what I did earlier. Everything inside the pump is getting wet while on operation, right?


----------



## Jyve

zipeldiablo said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/blog/how-to-clean-water-blocks/
> 
> What was wrong with you wb? And why wouldn't you want to open it?
> 
> 
> 
> I had algae, rust (waterblock was nickel plated mind you) and the black plastic seal inside was coming off.
> I bought a prefilled waterblock for my 1080ti to plug into a 360 predator, the all point of no going custom-loop was to have a leak-free warranty in case somethings bad happened, no way was i gonna go with the hassle of cleaning a block and voiding my warranty.
> People don't buy aio to have to do maintenance, hence why i'm sending back everything (they will refund the predator as it most likely suffered from damaged too) and going custom loop, there is not much risks of leaks with a proper custom loop anyway and i will be able to do the maintenance /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> (maitenance of the loop, i will keep sending back the waterblocks if i need to open them obviously)
> 
> 
> Quick questions of the day, my waterblock https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-1080-gtx-ti-nickel have holes for 3mm diodes, what diodes do you guys advise to run there?
> Also, is there a way to plug some diodes directly into the gpu ?
> 
> About the reservoir for d5, i'm buying a used one and there is some foam + an anticyclone thingy, can i just remove the foam without touching the other thing? Would be great, pretty worried the foam will disintegrate like the one inside the predators did.
Click to expand...

Of you're talking about physically connecting the led diodes to the gpu, as in the new leds would take the place of the current GPU's, then I doubt it. I'm pretty sure that just about any single led you buy will probably be molex powered. I suppose you could snip the molex and solder on a compatible header for the gpu. That MIGHT work. 

As for the reservoir. I thought I read somewhere you picked either the foam or the acrylic anti cyclone but not both. I could be wrong. Just pop out the acrylic doohicky, remove the foam, then replace the acrylic one. Yeah, you should probably ditch the foam as I've read a number of stories here about them falling apart. I don't use mine.


----------



## zipeldiablo

Jyve said:


> Of you're talking about physically connecting the led diodes to the gpu, as in the new leds would take the place of the current GPU's, then I doubt it. I'm pretty sure that just about any single led you buy will probably be molex powered. I suppose you could snip the molex and solder on a compatible header for the gpu. That MIGHT work.
> 
> As for the reservoir. I thought I read somewhere you picked either the foam or the acrylic anti cyclone but not both. I could be wrong. Just pop out the acrylic doohicky, remove the foam, then replace the acrylic one. Yeah, you should probably ditch the foam as I've read a number of stories here about them falling apart. I don't use mine.


Yeah i've seen some gpu waterblock branded evga which had some place for the led cables so you could plug the cables directly into the gpu header.
From what you're saying it is not possible on new waterblock and i would have some cables running around, not good :/

I read some horrible stories about the foam inside the predator falling appart, will definitly remove that if i can


----------



## KCDC

kevindd992002 said:


> Yeah, that's what I did earlier. Everything inside the pump is getting wet while on operation, right?


Pretty much, yes.


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Anyone else notice EKWB's prices starting to go up? Figures... Just as soon as I start to dip my feet into water-cooling it gets pricier...


----------



## DarthBaggins

I haven't noticed a difference in pricing, but I normally buy through MicroCenter or PPC's.


----------



## Vlada011

My friend ordered parts for me from EKWB. He made account and I made card and that's it.
Finaly for 15-20 days they will bring me from Germany parts.

I must say only one thing I could done better.
Hardware labs GTR 360 radiator. He would cost me double of Coolstream PE 360 because I would need to order from different store and shipping and everything else.
But I really really wished that radiator. 
All other Hardware Labs radiators are old style look and EK Coolstream PE is modern look of radiator.
Except Nemesis GTR. I didn't find single video clip, single review of him on youtube... I really wished him or EK Coolstream PE but I used Coolstream PE.
Whole loop will be EKWB. 
I didn't brave to order Eiszapfen new Alphacool 13/10mm fittings and didn't find experience of customers for them.
That's my suggestion for EKWB, Made Clean Shine Soft Tubbing Fittings and type logo on edges little as Bitspower if you need...
And start to offer Norprene 13/10 on your site, I would use Norprene but didn't want 16/10mm


----------



## ThrashZone

Gohan_Nightwing said:


> Anyone else notice EKWB's prices starting to go up? Figures... Just as soon as I start to dip my feet into water-cooling it gets pricier...


Hi,
Yeah fortunately there's OCOOL and watercool... too to get another perspective


----------



## zipeldiablo

Vlada011 said:


> My friend ordered parts for me from EKWB. He made account and I made card and that's it.
> Finaly for 15-20 days they will bring me from Germany parts.
> 
> I must say only one thing I could done better.
> Hardware labs GTR 360 radiator. He would cost me double of Coolstream PE 360 because I would need to order from different store and shipping and everything else.
> But I really really wished that radiator.
> All other Hardware Labs radiators are old style look and EK Coolstream PE is modern look of radiator.
> Except Nemesis GTR. I didn't find single video clip, single review of him on youtube... I really wished him or EK Coolstream PE but I used Coolstream PE.
> Whole loop will be EKWB.
> I didn't brave to order Eiszapfen new Alphacool 13/10mm fittings and didn't find experience of customers for them.
> That's my suggestion for EKWB, Made Clean Shine Soft Tubbing Fittings and type logo on edges little as Bitspower if you need...
> And start to offer Norprene 13/10 on your site, I would use Norprene but didn't want 16/10mm


The nemesis gtx is the bomb, there was some review for those radiators on thermalbench.

Also a lof of people are actually buying barrow fittings because they cannot stand the logo on the bitspower fittings


----------



## VSG

I have also reviewed the Nemesis GTR on Thermal Bench as well as that exact Nemesis GTR 360 he is interested in on TechPowerUp, I can't link to either here though, and it's also not great to do so in an EK Club thread


----------



## Stiltz85

Gohan_Nightwing said:


> Anyone else notice EKWB's prices starting to go up? Figures... Just as soon as I start to dip my feet into water-cooling it gets pricier...


I just ordered some fittings and stuff and I did some price comparison and yeah, compared to EKWB's official store to PPC's, EKWB is charging more. 
Not to mention their shipping prices are higher as well.
Of all the parts I ordered, EKWB seemed to have a 10-25% higher price than Performance-PC's.


----------



## Archea47

Is there a performance benefit to using the EK backplate for the AMD Vega 56 cards over the stock/reference backplate, or is it largely cosmetic?


----------



## Stiltz85

Archea47 said:


> Is there a performance benefit to using the EK backplate for the AMD Vega 56 cards over the stock/reference backplate, or is it largely cosmetic?


You might get a degree difference maybe. In some situations a backplate can make a card run hotter because instead of radiating the heat naturally, the backplate can actually hold on to some of it. 
In all it's rather negligible, on or off I just consider it a cosmetic item.


----------



## DarthBaggins

finally finished all my runs in Project Gray Scale, just need to re-install the 1080Ti and pressure test now.


----------



## kevindd992002

This EK block for my EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 is starting to give me headaches. These are the series of events:

NOTE: The only type of liquids that ever circulated around my loop are distilled water and Mayhems Blitz Part 2 solution. I never turned this whole system on yet (except for testing it when I bought the parts new, of course) and distilled water is only used for flushing the system (it was never used as a coolant) at about 1 hour interval each.

1) Last week I posted this: http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/993624-ek-club-2145.html#post27063665 and I solved the problem by disassembling the block and cleaning the insides with a micro-fiber cloth and distilled water.
2) Yesterday, I assembled my loop again and did another run of Blitz Part 2 and subsequently flushing multiple times with distilled water.
3) While flushing with distilled water and with normal lighting conditions in my room, everything seems to be fine like so:










4) But when you direct a flashlight to the block, you see this some kind of brown discoloration of some sort!










What is this? I'm new to watercooling and I made sure everything was clean before I set this whole thing up. I used Mayhems Blitz Part 1 to clean my two HWLabs GTS rads thoroughly (with four times flushing with distilled water afterwards) and, like I said above, used Blitz Part 2 to clean my whole loop after disassembling it. I haven't put a coolant in this system yet because I'm making sure everything is clean first. But as you see, I'm already having loads of problems that I didn't anticipate.

What do you guys think?


----------



## MNMadman

kevindd992002 said:


> This EK block for my EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 is starting to give me headaches. These are the series of events:
> 
> NOTE: The only type of liquids that ever circulated around my loop are distilled water and Mayhems Blitz Part 2 solution. I never turned this whole system on yet (except for testing it when I bought the parts new, of course) and distilled water is only used for flushing the system (it was never used as a coolant) at about 1 hour interval each.
> 
> 1) Last week I posted this: http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/993624-ek-club-2145.html#post27063665 and I solved the problem by disassembling the block and cleaning the insides with a micro-fiber cloth and distilled water.
> 2) Yesterday, I assembled my loop again and did another run of Blitz Part 2 and subsequently flushing multiple times with distilled water.
> 3) While flushing with distilled water and with normal lighting conditions in my room, everything seems to be fine like so:
> 4) But when you direct a flashlight to the block, you see this some kind of brown discoloration of some sort!
> 
> What is this? I'm new to watercooling and I made sure everything was clean before I set this whole thing up. I used Mayhems Blitz Part 1 to clean my two HWLabs GTS rads thoroughly (with four times flushing with distilled water afterwards) and, like I said above, used Blitz Part 2 to clean my whole loop after disassembling it. I haven't put a coolant in this system yet because I'm making sure everything is clean first. But as you see, I'm already having loads of problems that I didn't anticipate.
> 
> What do you guys think?


The o-rings sometimes have oils that come out. As long as it's not in the coolant path you're good.


----------



## kevindd992002

MNMadman said:


> The o-rings sometimes have oils that come out. As long as it's not in the coolant path you're good.


Yeah, I've heard. Where is the o-ring oil come from? Is it present in the inside of the o-ring itself? Because I already wiped the o-ring when I first disassembled the block so I was thinking that there shouldn't be any oil anymore if it's just external oil.


----------



## Vlada011

zipeldiablo said:


> The nemesis gtx is the bomb, there was some review for those radiators on thermalbench.
> 
> Also a lof of people are actually buying barrow fittings because they cannot stand the logo on the bitspower fittings


I talk about normal fitting Bitspower... not with logo... 
Nemesis GTX I heared it's great, but I talk about new GTR.
He got my attention from first moment.

But I saved significant price buying everything from EKWB.
Later if EKWB launch new series of fittings without logo I will changed.
At least compression fittings are easy to sell in my country.
Anyway after new NVIDIA series arrive I plan to switch maybe on hardtube.


----------



## iamjanco

MNMadman said:


> The o-rings sometimes have oils that come out. As long as it's not in the coolant path you're good.


Which raises a question, at least at my end: is there anything from a preventive maintenance standpoint beforehand that can be done to remove oils that might be leached from gaskets? For instance, I own a thermally controlled ultrasonic cleaner and am wondering whether it might not be a bad idea to run gaskets from new parts through it before use in a build, at let's say 70-85°C using distilled water. Is it a bad idea? 

I imagine you could also do a pre-build leak check using heated distilled, which could help identify problems before having to rip a completed build apart.

Any other ideas?


----------



## Vlada011

I still didn't chose fan for Coolstream PE 360 radiator.
I'm almost 100% sure that CORSAIR ML120 PRO x3 is winner.


----------



## ThrashZone

DarthBaggins said:


> finally finished all my runs in Project Gray Scale, just need to re-install the 1080Ti and pressure test now.


Hi,
Very nice :thumb:


----------



## jvillaveces

DarthBaggins said:


> finally finished all my runs in Project Gray Scale, just need to re-install the 1080Ti and pressure test now.


Very nice job! It's very hard to pull off diagonal runs, but you did it!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Thanks, been dragging my feet on this build -mainly due to alot of life events catching up to me. 
Part of me was debating on changing the run from the base to the GPU, but just noticed it matches the run from the CPU to Mobo/vrm block.


----------



## d0mmie

kevindd992002 said:


> This EK block for my EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 is starting to give me headaches. These are the series of events:
> 
> NOTE: The only type of liquids that ever circulated around my loop are distilled water and Mayhems Blitz Part 2 solution. I never turned this whole system on yet (except for testing it when I bought the parts new, of course) and distilled water is only used for flushing the system (it was never used as a coolant) at about 1 hour interval each.
> 
> 1) Last week I posted this: http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/993624-ek-club-2145.html#post27063665 and I solved the problem by disassembling the block and cleaning the insides with a micro-fiber cloth and distilled water.
> 2) Yesterday, I assembled my loop again and did another run of Blitz Part 2 and subsequently flushing multiple times with distilled water.
> 3) While flushing with distilled water and with normal lighting conditions in my room, everything seems to be fine like so:
> 4) But when you direct a flashlight to the block, you see this some kind of brown discoloration of some sort!
> 
> What is this? I'm new to watercooling and I made sure everything was clean before I set this whole thing up. I used Mayhems Blitz Part 1 to clean my two HWLabs GTS rads thoroughly (with four times flushing with distilled water afterwards) and, like I said above, used Blitz Part 2 to clean my whole loop after disassembling it. I haven't put a coolant in this system yet because I'm making sure everything is clean first. But as you see, I'm already having loads of problems that I didn't anticipate.
> 
> What do you guys think?


Don't use distilled water, use de-ionized water. From my own experience distilled water can cause super fast oxidation when interacting with plated metals, this has also been a major problem in the past for EK. This is not to say oxidation WILL happen, but it can happen if the quality of the plated metal is poor. I've seen it happen for myself when I ran distilled water in a loop for 24 hours. The moment I let air in to let in drain, several huge brown spots occurred on the nickel plating. Shortly after the plating started to come off in those spots.


----------



## kevindd992002

d0mmie said:


> Don't use distilled water, use de-ionized water. From my own experience distilled water can cause super fast oxidation when interacting with plated metals, this has also been a major problem in the past for EK. This is not to say oxidation WILL happen, but it can happen if the quality of the plated metal is poor. I've seen it happen for myself when I ran distilled water in a loop for 24 hours. The moment I let air in to let in drain, several huge brown spots occurred on the nickel plating. Shortly after the plating started to come off in those spots.


Ok, that's a bummer. Everyone was suggesting to use either distilled or DI water. DI water is not readily available here in our country which is why I chose to use distilled water. And more people prefer to use distilled water so, being the first time watercooler that I am, I went with distilled and didn't expect any issues.

So who's fault do we really attribute this to? Isn't it EK's fault for using low quality nickel plating?


----------



## d0mmie

kevindd992002 said:


> Ok, that's a bummer. Everyone was suggesting to use either distilled or DI water. DI water is not readily available here in our country which is why I chose to use distilled water. And more people prefer to use distilled water so, being the first time watercooler that I am, I went with distilled and didn't expect any issues.
> 
> So who's fault do we really attribute this to? Isn't it EK's fault for using low quality nickel plating?


Demineralized water as far as I know is the same as de-ionized water. It can be confusing sometimes as how they label the products though, but using distilled water in combination with an additive should be safe, as it protects the metal. I don't know what the coolants EK/Mayhems etc consists of, but I think it's more to it than that. The only thing I will not do ever again, is run only distilled water in a loop with nickel plated products for a prolonged period of time.

Edit: Oh and this was the result I was talking about https://imgur.com/t8gWuZ0


----------



## Vlada011

This will be my first watercooling.

-EK XRES D5 Revo 100 Glass
-EK Coolstream PE 360
-EK RGB Monoblock RVE10 - 
I have with me and that's far nicest Monoblock every launched, nothing is even close, Monoblocks for RVI Apex and Extreme are very cool, 
transparent, etc but far from black silver RGB Monoblock for RVE10. 
-13/10 mm Nickel Compression Fittings


Watercooling of GPU will arrive when NVIDIA launch new 250W Graphic Processor.
After that I will change tubes in Norprene or use hard tubes. Because I can't look same loop 12 months.
I will need to change something every 3-6 months. Shape of loop, color of tubes or coolant, fittings, etc...


----------



## kevindd992002

d0mmie said:


> Demineralized water as far as I know is the same as de-ionized water. It can be confusing sometimes as how they label the products though, but using distilled water in combination with an additive should be safe, as it protects the metal. I don't know what the coolants EK/Mayhems etc consists of, but I think it's more to it than that. The only thing I will not do ever again, is run only distilled water in a loop with nickel plated products for a prolonged period of time.
> 
> Edit: Oh and this was the result I was talking about https://imgur.com/t8gWuZ0


Well, we only have distilled water and mineral water here. Doing a quick google search didn't return de-ionized water here also. I'm sure there are water-refilling businesses here that sell those but I want one that is "commercially" available as I can be sure those are legit.

I understand how this could happen when running distilled water alone for a prolonged period but this is not the case on mine. The distilled water flushes I've done were only for around 1-2 hours each. The 24-hour run that I did was that of the Mayhems Blitz Part 2 (concentrate that was mixed to distilled water) and this product is infamous in cleaning a loop effectively. So yeah.

That pic is nasty!


----------



## KnyghtFall

kevindd992002 said:


> Well, we only have distilled water and mineral water here. Doing a quick google search didn't return de-ionized water here also. I'm sure there are water-refilling businesses here that sell those but I want one that is "commercially" available as I can be sure those are legit.
> 
> I understand how this could happen when running distilled water alone for a prolonged period but this is not the case on mine. The distilled water flushes I've done were only for around 1-2 hours each. The 24-hour run that I did was that of the Mayhems Blitz Part 2 (concentrate that was mixed to distilled water) and this product is infamous in cleaning a loop effectively. So yeah.
> 
> That pic is nasty!


You're perfectly fine using distilled for flushes like you have been. As was mentioned, people having corrosion issues are the ones using distilled as their primary coolant without anti-corrosion additives.


----------



## kevindd992002

KnyghtFall said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well, we only have distilled water and mineral water here. Doing a quick google search didn't return de-ionized water here also. I'm sure there are water-refilling businesses here that sell those but I want one that is "commercially" available as I can be sure those are legit.
> 
> I understand how this could happen when running distilled water alone for a prolonged period but this is not the case on mine. The distilled water flushes I've done were only for around 1-2 hours each. The 24-hour run that I did was that of the Mayhems Blitz Part 2 (concentrate that was mixed to distilled water) and this product is infamous in cleaning a loop effectively. So yeah.
> 
> That pic is nasty!
> 
> 
> 
> You're perfectly fine using distilled for flushes like you have been. As was mentioned, people having corrosion issues are the ones using distilled as their primary coolant without anti-corrosion additives.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's what I thought. So it's really just EK cutting corners with their products. What a shame for what was such a great company before.


----------



## Vlada011

Guys how you cut soft tubes?
Kitchen Knife? Scissors? Scalpel?


----------



## kevindd992002

d0mmie said:


> Demineralized water as far as I know is the same as de-ionized water. It can be confusing sometimes as how they label the products though, but using distilled water in combination with an additive should be safe, as it protects the metal. I don't know what the coolants EK/Mayhems etc consists of, but I think it's more to it than that. The only thing I will not do ever again, is run only distilled water in a loop with nickel plated products for a prolonged period of time.
> 
> Edit: Oh and this was the result I was talking about https://imgur.com/t8gWuZ0





Vlada011 said:


> Guys how you cut soft tubes?
> Kitchen Knife? Scissors? Scalpel?


With this: http://www.barrowint.com/index.php/article/113.html


----------



## Vlada011

Thanks.
Now I must recommend EKWB to start to sell something similar.
I must use scissors than.
This parts I recommend to EKWB to start to sell urgently.

1. Cutter for Soft and Hard Tubes
2. LCD Temp Sensor to G 1/4 Plug
3. RGB LED Light to G 1/4 Plug.

This parts always need, special will people ask for RGB Plug.
Than I could use one of 3 top Port on XRES D5 Revo Glass for RGB Plug and my reservoir will be almost like RGB.

But maybe I could find all of these things on Aliexpress from Barrow.
I think they sell everything, shipping from China to Serbia is 8$.


----------



## Ricwin

Does anyone in here know if EK supply a waterblock compatible with the regular EVGA 1060 ACX3.0? Part number 06G-P4-6262-KR
This is not a FTW or SC card and, as far as I'm aware, uses a different PCB layout.

Preferably full cover unit.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Nope, no full-cover from EK for that card. Next time just look it up via CoolingConfigurator.com


----------



## Bartdude

Vlada011 said:


> Guys how you cut soft tubes?
> Kitchen Knife? Scissors? Scalpel?


You can buy a soft tube cutter from any plumbers merchant.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah, I'd recommend buying a soft tubing cutter as it's just easier and inexpensive


----------



## Eze2kiel




----------



## Squashie

Was wonderring if anyone know the dimensions of the o-ring for the FC TITAN X/980ti block?


----------



## Juris

Not sure if this has been done before (I'm sure someone has) but just wanted to throw this out there in case it may be useful to some with EK rads (maybe other manufacturers) with shrouds trying to keep fan cabling in order.

As I'm going to be using my EK XE360 on the front of a Rainjintek Paean open bench show case fan cables trailing across the front and into grommets half way across the case wouldn't look the best so I removed the XE's left shroud panel, removed my Riing TT fans crappy oversized sleeving and gently ran the cables down between the XE's side fins and out the back. Obviously if you're going to be adding or removing fans regularly this isn't for you but if you're looking to keep a build looking clean it could be an option.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Bartdude said:


> You can buy a soft tube cutter from any plumbers merchant.


Or use kitchen scissors.... 

TCO


----------



## iamjanco

I use a set of large sheet metal sheers, cuts through tubing like butter.


----------



## emsj86

I just purchased a 1080 ftw nickel backplate from microcenter. I had two questions. One is there a way to polish it as it seems to have a lot of lines in it. Two it was missing the pads and screws. I would return it but they song have another nickel backplate so is there a way I can get the pads and screws. Or atleast the screws (I can probably find the Bernal pads online)??


----------



## Jyve

emsj86 said:


> I just purchased a 1080 ftw nickel backplate from microcenter. I had two questions. One is there a way to polish it as it seems to have a lot of lines in it. Two it was missing the pads and screws. I would return it but they song have another nickel backplate so is there a way I can get the pads and screws. Or atleast the screws (I can probably find the Bernal pads online)??


Get ahold of ek. They'll probably help you out. Had nothing but good experiences dealing with their cs. Not sure about polishing though.


----------



## huckincharlie

some ek love


----------



## zipeldiablo

Looking for a way to mount vertically on a horitonzal fan a d5 pump res CSQ.
Do you guys know of any part that could do it ?
It seems those that ek is currently selling are not compatible


----------



## Bartdude

zipeldiablo said:


> Looking for a way to mount vertically on a horitonzal fan a d5 pump res CSQ.
> Do you guys know of any part that could do it ?
> It seems those that ek is currently selling are not compatible



The EK-WB - Uni Bracket should do what you want. It says vertical but you can mount that either way, just look at the various options in the pictures.


----------



## zipeldiablo

Bartdude said:


> The EK-WB - Uni Bracket should do what you want. It says vertical but you can mount that either way, just look at the various options in the pictures.


Ek support told me this bracket was compatible only with revo model not csq, hence my question


----------



## toncij

Need an answer from someone familiar or EK:

EKWB configurator claims that Define R5 can host dual XE rads, 360 and 240, but that Define R6 can't so configurator goes with SE and PE rads.

Looking at both cases online, I can't figure out how is that so? What am I missing?


----------



## zipeldiablo

Can someone confirm that a d5 pump with a CSQ top can fit on this mount please : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-revo-d5-pump-mount


----------



## SlvrDragon50

zipeldiablo said:


> Can someone confirm that a d5 pump with a CSQ top can fit on this mount please : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-revo-d5-pump-mount


Pretty sure it won't fit.


----------



## zipeldiablo

SlvrDragon50 said:


> Pretty sure it won't fit.


Damn, i don't want to buy another top


----------



## SlvrDragon50

zipeldiablo said:


> Damn, i don't want to buy another top


Why don't you just get another pump bracket?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2...acket_-_Vertical_for_Laing_DDCD4D5_pump_.html


----------



## ThrashZone

zipeldiablo said:


> Ek support told me this bracket was compatible only with revo model not csq, hence my question


Hi,
It would be nice once in a while if people would actually link to products they are asking advice on


----------



## zipeldiablo

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> It would be nice once in a while if people would actually link to products they are asking advice on


I'm talking about this top https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-d5-acetal-original-csq


----------



## Bartdude

zipeldiablo said:


> Ek support told me this bracket was compatible only with revo model not csq, hence my question


Hmm not 100% sure but if you were to combine EK-Revo D5 Pump Mount (which fits any make or model D5 pump) with the EK-Uni Bracket it may work.


----------



## zipeldiablo

Bartdude said:


> Hmm not 100% sure but if you were to combine EK-Revo D5 Pump Mount (which fits any make or model D5 pump) with the EK-Uni Bracket it may work.


That's what i wanted to do but the CSQ top is not compatible with the revo pump mount apparently, because of the square shape :/
Support couldn't confirm it fits and i don't know anyone who has the a CSQ top that can confirm this either


----------



## Bartdude

zipeldiablo said:


> That's what i wanted to do but the CSQ top is not compatible with the revo pump mount apparently, because of the square shape :/
> Support couldn't confirm it fits and i don't know anyone who has the a CSQ top that can confirm this either


Ok looking at the specs of the CSQ top it's 16.5mm from the pump hole to the outside of the top. I have the pump mounts, I'll see if I can get a measurement


----------



## ThrashZone

zipeldiablo said:


> That's what i wanted to do but the CSQ top is not compatible with the revo pump mount apparently, because of the square shape :/
> Support couldn't confirm it fits and i don't know anyone who has the a CSQ top that can confirm this either


Hi,
They were referring to by it's self the other bracket isn't compatible 
Using both mounting brackets it can be used probably
You might also have to modify the other bracket like cutting the bottom off so the square bottom isn't in the way.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

huckincharlie said:


> some ek love


Is that a TJ? 

TCO


----------



## zipeldiablo

Bartdude said:


> Ok looking at the specs of the CSQ top it's 16.5mm from the pump hole to the outside of the top. I have the pump mounts, I'll see if I can get a measurement


I measured 9mm, would be great if you could 



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> They were referring to by it's self the other bracket isn't compatible
> Using both mounting brackets it can be used probably
> You might also have to modify the other bracket like cutting the bottom off so the square bottom isn't in the way.


Meh i won't bother, i don't have the tools so i will just order spare parts from ek


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Like you said all you need is a mount for a 120mm fan 
That bracket is that plus a mount for a different D5 pump so it's an easy modification with a few different holes for the original bracket to mount to it 
Take the blue pill instead then


----------



## SlvrDragon50

zipeldiablo said:


> I measured 9mm, would be great if you could
> 
> 
> 
> Meh i won't bother, i don't have the tools so i will just order spare parts from ek


I still don't get why you don't just order the universal pump mount I linked?


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Does anyone know the thickness of the VRM and memory thermal pads on the Seahawk EK X 1080 ? I managed to lose mine and not sure if it`s 1mm or 1.5mm for the VRM and for the memory.
Also sent an email to EK asking about it but no answer yet since it is the weekend.


----------



## Mettal

I have 
2 x RGB x3 res 250
1 x xtop revo D5 pwm plexi (costum rgb)
1 x evo supremacy plexi (costum rgb)
1 x fc1080 g1 acetal
1 x fc1080 backplade
1 x pe 360 rad
1 x se 240 rad


----------



## Bartdude

zipeldiablo said:


> I measured 9mm, would be great if you could
> 
> 
> 
> Meh i won't bother, i don't have the tools so i will just order spare parts from ek


ok looking at it there's about 18mm from my pump housing to the back of the bracket so I'd say give it a go.


----------



## ThrashZone

outofmyheadyo said:


> Does anyone know the thickness of the VRM and memory thermal pads on the Seahawk EK X 1080 ? I managed to lose mine and not sure if it`s 1mm or 1.5mm for the VRM and for the memory.
> Also sent an email to EK asking about it but no answer yet since it is the weekend.


Hi,
Only .05 and 1.0 pads are used on gpu's I believe.


----------



## huckincharlie

TheCautiousOne said:


> Is that a TJ?
> 
> TCO




No, custom made  but TJ07 was an inspiration

http://www.overclock.net/forum/362-...11-sponsored-one-mkii-scratch-build-pc-7.html


----------



## svx94

huckincharlie said:


> No, custom made  but TJ07 was an inspiration
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/362-...11-sponsored-one-mkii-scratch-build-pc-7.html


Beautiful build!


----------



## Garrett1974NL

outofmyheadyo said:


> Does anyone know the thickness of the VRM and memory thermal pads on the Seahawk EK X 1080 ? I managed to lose mine and not sure if it`s 1mm or 1.5mm for the VRM and for the memory.
> Also sent an email to EK asking about it but no answer yet since it is the weekend.


Usually it's 0.5mm for the memory and 1.0mm for the VRM's. That's what I got with my 1080Ti TF 6 block 
1.5mm never comes with an EK block, correct me if I'm wrong though.


----------



## Blze001

Silly question for you guys, but the D5 pump that comes with the EK-XRES 100 combo is just a normal D5, right? I did some test fitting and the whole unit is a short-and-curly hair too long to fit in the space I have. I know their DDC unit is a couple mil shorter, but I'm wondering if I could just stick this pump I already have into a res like the Alphacool Eisstation or XSPC's D5 res, both of which will fit nicely. I'm thinking I need to keep the D5's muscle for my loop, and the reservoirs would be about $40 which makes my already exhausted wallet slightly less suicidal.


----------



## DarthBaggins

It should be a standard D5 attached to the ek res, only way to know is take it out to test fit in the other reservior you have.


----------



## Garrett1974NL

Blze001 said:


> Silly question for you guys, but the D5 pump that comes with the EK-XRES 100 combo is just a normal D5, right? I did some test fitting and the whole unit is a short-and-curly hair too long to fit in the space I have. I know their DDC unit is a couple mil shorter, but I'm wondering if I could just stick this pump I already have into a res like the Alphacool Eisstation or XSPC's D5 res, both of which will fit nicely. I'm thinking I need to keep the D5's muscle for my loop, and the reservoirs would be about $40 which makes my already exhausted wallet slightly less suicidal.


Got any pics of the case and pump/res stuff?
Maybe we have some ideas...


----------



## Bill Owen

Well done Mettal. Very clean.


----------



## Blze001

Garrett1974NL said:


> Got any pics of the case and pump/res stuff?
> Maybe we have some ideas...


I'll get some pictures uploaded when I get home, but I grabbed an Alphacool Eisstation. The box format is a better fit.

As for the case and why space is at a premium, it's a Hadron Air. Things are tight. Like "had to trim the ram removal levers so they clear the top radiator" tight.


----------



## elcr9

Sorry if this has been asked before.

Can anyone confirm that the EK Asus Z270i monoblock is compatible with bitspower ihs for the 7700k?

Thanks.


----------



## Vlada011

Finaly!
These days I must check what I need for RVE10 Monoblock, maybe I need few spacers and screws.
I bought him before some time with motherboard, used and I didn't count how many of them are there.

EK XRES D5 Revo 100 Glass
EK Coolstream PE
10/13mm fittings, extenders, tubes, ball valve, X-Spliters.


----------



## Vlada011

How long I should wash radiator inside.
And do you shake whole radiator or remove extend aluminum housing and than shake only core.
Somehow look me too gently to shake him together.


----------



## MNMadman

Vlada011 said:


> How long I should wash radiator inside.
> And do you shake whole radiator or remove extend aluminum housing and than shake only core.
> Somehow look me too gently to shake him together.


Don't remove the housing.

Fill it about halfway with hot (boiling) distilled water then shake it for a few minutes. Drain it into a white bowl in the sink so you can see any particles that come out. Keep doing that until the drain water doesn't have any particles in it.

My last EK radiator took three of those flushes to be clean.


----------



## crpcookie

EK's got 120mm RGB fans now. When can we expect a 140mm version?


----------



## Vlada011

Thanks on answer. 
I will have 100 questions during installation...
Still need to decide about fans, I saw these new EKWB RGB.
Is it possible to change color on white on them, with some software.
On RVE10 RGB LED could be white, I keep White or Red mostly.

NO, NO, NO.
Looks like I have problem with radiator.
Core of radiator is not tight in housing and make clicking noise and move.
Listen. 

http://www.mediafire.com/file/96ce8aktu5s6ouu/Recording+(autosaved).m4a

I believe this is not normal.

I send them message to EKWB to advice me if I can fix this without damn RMA.
At least box is perfect and intact, even paper inside was perfect and no sign on damage during transport.

Damn, maybe I should go for Hardware Labs GTR, they looked me more durable and stronger on picture.
I asked about that and get positive comments but couldn't find him. Coolstream is gentlier than radiator on AIO systems.
This is very big problem for me because we pay custom tax on product over 50 euro. Plus shiping to them if need I will overprice Hardwarelabs GTR.

If this is not normal that's control quality problem. This should not pass on market but I know why pass, in some moments if you keep him in middle and shake he not move. And if they inspect him keeping for middle of radiator maybe they didn't notice.
Aaaaggggrrrrrrrrrrrrr......


----------



## Vlada011

Hm, I barely found on internet picture how they look inside, and now I think it's more clear why base of radiator move...
Probably is something with some of these parts inside.

They probably keep core on place but maybe some of them miss or it's not installed or is to small, who knows.


They are not problems, EKWB was always good for customers. Problem is my idiotic country because they grab even if something not belong to them. And I not respect their custom taxes. That belong to communism period. 
Soviet union protect their economy and civil industry 30 years behind Europe with insane taxes... Because of that Russian women ware naylon socks 35 years after launched on market. Hahahaaaaaa.... They want to rule in word and you could have sex with whole Moscow for few Rock vynils during 1970th and 1980th. Now cry for same period.


----------



## emsj86

Are there certain motherboards that get minobloxka every time for each socket. Every time I start looking into getting a new cpu and motherboard it gets confusing on what mono block works on which board. Are there any boards that are not very expensive that have a mono lock for it


----------



## SavantStrike

emsj86 said:


> Are there certain motherboards that get minobloxka every time for each socket. Every time I start looking into getting a new cpu and motherboard it gets confusing on what mono block works on which board. Are there any boards that are not very expensive that have a mono lock for it


Mono blocks are usually reserved for mid to high end boards. There are some strix variants on the Asus side and the taichi/fatality variants on the Asrock side that usually get mono blocks on a consistent basis, especially for Intel chips.


----------



## Vlada011

I contact EKWB technical support for RMA and I will see what will say these days.
It's good because I not hurry for loop and wait fans. EKWB RGB 120 completely ruined my plan to use CORSAIR ML120 PRO.
Now I'm not sure any more. EKWB 120 RGB have nice middle and probably look cool during spin.
Only cleaning transparent fans could be problem.

I found few more guys who had problems and core of Coolstream move inside and cause housing to woble because they are not tight,.
I think they should find different method to connect aluminum housing with core, without options to something between remove and cause that. Thicker aluminium would help a lot as well. 

If you check Nemesis GTR I just saw him few days before ordering part. 
He look really stronger and that's not possible with them to core inside separate from housing.
But really I go from first to the last site on their page Where To Buy Europe and none of them had at all Hardwarelabs any more or not new GTR. Even I made card box on performance pc of exactly same parts I order from EKWB, everything their only Nemesis GTR but friend told me, price importing oversea will be insane even if he accept package in Germany, 100+euro more than if I order from EKWB. 
Only radiator cheapest option was 180 euro import from USA after I paid everything, taxes, shipping, radiator, compare to 80euro difference was huge. 
And price to people who have offer close to them is two Coolstream PE 360 vs one Nemesis GTR. 
But I'm sure that their performance are equal in 2-3C and probably thicker win, it's only matter on build quality.

I'm almost, OK I can't say almost, but 50% sure that I could fix, but they told me that noI should not try to fix nothing.


----------



## Blze001

Another question guys: I have the D5/Res combo. What would I need to separate those two and use them separately? I know I can get the pump top, but can I get a res bottom from EK? Do I need one?

EDIT: Nevermind, I'm dumb, answered my own question.


----------



## ThrashZone

emsj86 said:


> Are there certain motherboards that get minobloxka every time for each socket. Every time I start looking into getting a new cpu and motherboard it gets confusing on what mono block works on which board. Are there any boards that are not very expensive that have a mono lock for it


Hi,
I added a asus x99 mono block to my x99 sabertooth working fine 
Just because it is not listed doesn't mean it wont work it's just not specifically made for that board/ tested.
Not a lot of differences between vrm's on asus boards although the rog's might be different but looking at the sabertooth now and also knowing how the x299 prime deluxe is they do have very different stock vrm blocks

Sabertooth has one more similar to a rog board with the large L shape instead of just a 4"+- straight across the top like prime deluxe has.
So it's just an expensive test


----------



## Vlada011

When I bought parts from EKWB I saw guys who offered me EKWB Pump, Bitspower Top, Bitspower kit, Hardwarelabs GTS 360 radiator for 120 euro. Can you imagine. Only say that pump is litte noise over half he have two one cheaper other more expensive and 3rd in his computer. But now is over I ordered parts and XRES D5 Revo Glass is for me far far nicer than Bitspower top and their kit, even if that's maybe coolest part from Bitspower. Where he was before month.... Hahahaha I could buid loop for 180 euro instead 360 euro.
But XRES Glass D5 Revo is best combo at the moment, pyrex glass reservoir, perfect finish, stainless steal suction tube, Inlet ports.


----------



## Bighouse

I'm looking to buy a water loop and EKWB seems like the ticket for me. I'm putting together an Asus Prime X299-Deluxe mobo in a Thermaltake Core P5 tempered glass case. The CPU will be an Intel Core i9-7900X. I'll be using a fan-cooled EVGA 1080 FTW for now, but when the 1180s come out (later this year?) I'll be expanding my loop to cool the GPU as well.

According to the Thermaltake manual, the P5 can hold the following radiator sizes: 4x120, 3x140, 3x120, 2x140. Would a 4x120 provide greater cooling capacity than a 3x140? I see the 3x140 has a 45mm radiator thickness, the 4x120 has only 28, 38 or 60.

I'll be going the monoblock route for the CPU/VRM cooling. I am looking for a combination of stealth and power so I'm not looking for a lot of flashy RGB, but adequate cooling for now, and for future expansion plans. It may well be that I may want to cool two GPUs in the future as well. So I'm looking at the following items, can anyone (hopefully someone from EKWB since they directed me to this forum!) confirm my item list seems like a good fit for my planned rig?

EK-CoolStream CE 420 (Triple)
EK-Furious Vardar EVO (140 (2500 rpm)
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 RGB PWM (incl. sl. pump)
EK-FB ASUS PRIME X299 RBG Monoblock - Nickel
EK-HD PETG Tube 10/12 500mm (2 pcs) x 2
EK-HDC Fitting 12mm G1/4 - Black
EK-CryoFuel Clear Concentrate 100ml

Thanks for your help.


----------



## Vlada011

Bighouse said:


> I'm looking to buy a water loop and EKWB seems like the ticket for me. I'm putting together an Asus Prime X299-Deluxe mobo in a Thermaltake Core P5 tempered glass case. The CPU will be an Intel Core i9-7900X. I'll be using a fan-cooled EVGA 1080 FTW for now, but when the 1180s come out (later this year?) I'll be expanding my loop to cool the GPU as well.
> 
> According to the Thermaltake manual, the P5 can hold the following radiator sizes: 4x120, 3x140, 3x120, 2x140. Would a 4x120 provide greater cooling capacity than a 3x140? I see the 3x140 has a 45mm radiator thickness, the 4x120 has only 28, 38 or 60.
> 
> I'll be going the monoblock route for the CPU/VRM cooling. I am looking for a combination of stealth and power so I'm not looking for a lot of flashy RGB, but adequate cooling for now, and for future expansion plans. It may well be that I may want to cool two GPUs in the future as well. So I'm looking at the following items, can anyone (hopefully someone from EKWB since they directed me to this forum!) confirm my item list seems like a good fit for my planned rig?
> 
> EK-CoolStream CE 420 (Triple)
> EK-Furious Vardar EVO (140 (2500 rpm)
> EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 RGB PWM (incl. sl. pump)
> EK-FB ASUS PRIME X299 RBG Monoblock - Nickel
> EK-HD PETG Tube 10/12 500mm (2 pcs) x 2
> EK-HDC Fitting 12mm G1/4 - Black
> EK-CryoFuel Clear Concentrate 100ml
> 
> Thanks for your help.



Great combination. 
EK Coolstream CE 420 was my first choice, but I couldn't install in case.
He is perfect 280 CE could serve almost as 360 PE. 
If I need to switch one day to smaller case I will look to fit 280mm radiator.
I'm sure Coolstream CE 280 could cooldown CPU/VRM/GPU and I will not have problem to use only that on day.
fabric overclocked GPU, manual overclocked CPU 280mm is enough for 50-50C and silence.
CE it's thicker and bigger than PE and now good 140mm fans are everywhere. 
Before few years options were limited for 140mm. 
It's hard to estimate precisely but CE 280 is probably 85% of 360 PE, because thickness.

I go with little different option EK XRES 100 D5 Revo GLASS.
I'm not so big fan of RGB, I mean look great and everything, but it's not priority for me.
Anyway If you have option with or without better go on RGB.
I notice some RGB G 1/4 Plugs and reservoirs with multiports on top could shine with one of these RGB G 1/4 Plugs.
Glass reservoir build quality is best. Literary no smallest traces of production proces. PERFECT.
Before 4-5 years process was not such perfect and you could see production process on XTOP and similar things, now is perfect, and D5 Tops look much nicer now. 


Can someone confirm me Allen key 8 or 9 need for tight fittings.
Mostly Allen keys I got with package but 8 and 9 I need to order here in my countr.
9 is much harder to find and no in completes, only separate, but it's very cheap.
Unior brand made Allen keys, that's Slovenian brand same as EKWB. 
Maybe they build and for EKWB, 3 euro are both.

cutom loop could be expensive, 350 euro at least for nice stuff with great flow and durable, capable to cooldown multi components but compare to AIO when you keep parts in hand you see that they really worth such price, production process is not cheap as for AIO.
Only I would like invention of stainless steal compression fittings for hard and soft tubes.
Like some 
Limited Edition series example 8 fittings + 2x 90 + 2x 45 angled adapters + 2 Male to Male Rottary + Ball Valve + 4 plugs.


----------



## MNMadman

Bighouse said:


> I'm looking to buy a water loop and EKWB seems like the ticket for me. I'm putting together an Asus Prime X299-Deluxe mobo in a Thermaltake Core P5 tempered glass case. The CPU will be an Intel Core i9-7900X. I'll be using a fan-cooled EVGA 1080 FTW for now, but when the 1180s come out (later this year?) I'll be expanding my loop to cool the GPU as well.
> 
> According to the Thermaltake manual, the P5 can hold the following radiator sizes: 4x120, 3x140, 3x120, 2x140. Would a 4x120 provide greater cooling capacity than a 3x140? I see the 3x140 has a 45mm radiator thickness, the 4x120 has only 28, 38 or 60.
> 
> I'll be going the monoblock route for the CPU/VRM cooling. I am looking for a combination of stealth and power so I'm not looking for a lot of flashy RGB, but adequate cooling for now, and for future expansion plans. It may well be that I may want to cool two GPUs in the future as well. So I'm looking at the following items, can anyone (hopefully someone from EKWB since they directed me to this forum!) confirm my item list seems like a good fit for my planned rig?
> 
> EK-CoolStream CE 420 (Triple)
> EK-Furious Vardar EVO (140 (2500 rpm)
> EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 RGB PWM (incl. sl. pump)
> EK-FB ASUS PRIME X299 RBG Monoblock - Nickel
> EK-HD PETG Tube 10/12 500mm (2 pcs) x 2
> EK-HDC Fitting 12mm G1/4 - Black
> EK-CryoFuel Clear Concentrate 100ml
> 
> Thanks for your help.


With your future plans in mind, I would go with an EK XE 480 radiator.

Reasons:

1. A thick 480 rad will fill the space better. Otherwise, that side of the P5 tends to look empty.
2. A hot CPU plus hot VRM plus GPU needs MOAR COOLING.


----------



## wheatpaste1999

Vlada011 said:


> Can someone confirm me Allen key 8 or 9 need for tight fittings.
> Mostly Allen keys I got with package but 8 and 9 I need to order here in my countr.
> 9 is much harder to find and no in completes, only separate, but it's very cheap.
> Unior brand made Allen keys, that's Slovenian brand same as EKWB.
> Maybe they build and for EKWB, 3 euro are both.


At least for the EK ACF fittings, you need a #9 allen key. Looks like the HDC fittings are the same.

#9 key is not that typical here in the US too. I had to buy a complete set to get one.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Debating on switching to a monoblock for my x99 Deluxe board, feel like it would clean my runs up alot.:Snorkle:


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
System looks nice and cool now :thumb:
Why mess it up with an ek bubble block unless you're just shooting for looking cool


----------



## Vlada011

DarthBaggins said:


> Debating on switching to a monoblock for my x99 Deluxe board, feel like it would clean my runs up alot.:Snorkle:




Great, silver fittings and black tubes and In Win case.
I didn't have time to finish my job with EKWB I was look to update clothes these days I need to finish everything before constant heat.
Computer cases little confuse.

Example If I sell my case and add same money I plan to invest in 3-4 good expensive fans I have 2/3 of total price CORSAIR 570X
and inside I get 3 fans. Not my nicest choice because I didn't plan RGB but not bad, not bad at all and they cost more than I plan to pay fans.
Even better, looks like inside are some tools for controling I never had money and plan to invest in such non priority things.
And similar option little confuse me.

I order 3m of Mayhem tubbing and Blood Red coolant.
EKWB should start to offer ZMT 3/8 1/2" (13/10mm)


----------



## Vlada011

One business recommendation for EKWB.
Start to work with Hungarian seller 
iPon Europe Kft. Budapest.


That's place where most Serbian enthsiasts buy hardware because it's cheaper than in Serbian 20-25% and we don't pay even shipping.
We have guys who bring for us for B price, that's better price than on seller site. 
Only Alphacool and Thermaltake and Phanteks are now presented for watercooling equipment. 
If EKWB show up that mean Serbia will have chance to buy products same as they live in Slovenia 100m near store.
We pay packages when arrive on our doors.


----------



## Ceadderman

Will we see CVIIHero monoblock?!?

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Jyve

DarthBaggins said:


> Debating on switching to a monoblock for my x99 Deluxe board, feel like it would clean my runs up alot./forum/images/smilies/Snorkle.gif


I see you have an Asus x99. I'm assuming deluxe? I just picked up a used x99a II to replace my gigabyte x99m. Been tempted to move to a monoblock as well but I'd really miss my heatkiller.
-
So I see what looks like a ball valve sitting on top of the pump? When draining do you plan on just flipping the case upside down?
-
I haven't put my new board in yet. I'm still trying decide if I want to drain the loop or just finaggle the thing in with the loop intact. You don't by chance use any of the onboard 2 pin temp headers at all do you? I'm looking forward to setting my fan curve based on coolant temp vs cpu temp. I'm expecting a more subtle and gradual change of fan speeds, rather than the ramping up and down of the cpu.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I can rotate the pump to allow the drain to be in the proper position since it will hit the glass if I left it that way


----------



## Jyve

DarthBaggins said:


> I can rotate the pump to allow the drain to be in the proper position since it will hit the glass if I left it that way


Ah. Gotcha. Didn't see the rotaries in the pic.


----------



## Vlada011

What experience of people who use EK Revo stuff say... 
More of you use default Rubber Damper of additional Soft Damper with small piramides up.
Or depend on D5 RPM.


----------



## MNMadman

Vlada011 said:


> What experience of people who use EK Revo stuff say...
> More of you use default Rubber Damper of additional Soft Damper with small piramides up.
> Or depend on D5 RPM.


I've had three EK PWM D5 pumps. I never had to use the soft damper -- even with the default damper, they were always silent for me.


----------



## Vlada011

MNMadman said:


> I've had three EK PWM D5 pumps. I never had to use the soft damper -- even with the default damper, they were always silent for me.


Thanks, now you can give me answer how to create new RIG again under settings.
I can't find options.


I must ask one more thing... EK not tolerate sleeving XRES D5 Revo with MDPC-X and replacing white fan/molex connector with black.
I have all of these stuff ready but I'm not sure... I will test pump first connecting inlet and outlet with little longer peace of tube and if work nicely I will sleeve.


----------



## Ceadderman

No answer on x470 RoG Hero VII monoblock? Please answer. I really don't wish to go with a Formula VI mb for the board. Fully watercooled means a serious shortage of airflow on the mb. Unless I set up a janky cooling solution for just the mosfets. :mellowsmi 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## JedixJarf

Ceadderman said:


> No answer on x470 RoG Hero VII monoblock? Please answer. I really don't wish to go with a Formula VI mb for the board. Fully watercooled means a serious shortage of airflow on the mb. Unless I set up a janky cooling solution for just the mosfets. :mellowsmi
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


Hey friend, good news, C6H block compatible with C7H.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/8cnfr4/ekfb_asus_c6h_rgb_monoblock_compatible_with_asus/

https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/waterblock/3831109821749


----------



## MNMadman

Vlada011 said:


> Thanks, now you can give me answer how to create new RIG again under settings.
> I can't find options.


1. Click on Rigbuilder in the top menu.
2. Click *My Rigs* over on the right side if you created the rig before. If not, click *Create Rig*.
Once you've got the rig created...
3. Click on your avatar in the top right, then click on *User CP* in the menu.
4. Click *Edit Signature* on the left menu.
5. Below the Edit Signature box, make sure *Show my rigs in my signature* is checked.
6. In the drop-down, choose your rig. You can have up to three rigs shown at the same time.
7. Click *Save Signature*.


----------



## Ceadderman

JedixJarf said:


> Hey friend, good news, C6H block compatible with C7H.
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/8cnfr4/ekfb_asus_c6h_rgb_monoblock_compatible_with_asus/
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/waterblock/3831109821749


I honestly don't wish to go the "compatible" route. I want one that is board specific if at all possible. This way there are zero fitment issues. A block meant for an earlier platform just doesn't cut it with my sensibilities. That's rather old skool imho. I remember using older gear to make a cooling system and while I got satisfaction from it I was kind of let down there was nothing specific to my platforms and then EK appeared. Only now it seems like we are reverting to old skool solutions for current platforms. No Buenos. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## M3TAl

Can someone please link me to the Female-Male piece that comes pre-installed on the ports of PE and XE EK radiators. Broke one on a PE rad but couldn't find the piece on the EK site. Won't let me post pics of it from my phone either.


----------



## JedixJarf

Ceadderman said:


> I honestly don't wish to go the "compatible" route. I want one that is board specific if at all possible. This way there are zero fitment issues. A block meant for an earlier platform just doesn't cut it with my sensibilities. That's rather old skool imho. I remember using older gear to make a cooling system and while I got satisfaction from it I was kind of let down there was nothing specific to my platforms and then EK appeared. Only now it seems like we are reverting to old skool solutions for current platforms. No Buenos.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


Oh, dunno how to help with that, all I see is the EK tech on reddit saying asus claimed it was compatible.


----------



## M3TAl

M3TAl said:


> Can someone please link me to the Female-Male piece that comes pre-installed on the ports of PE and XE EK radiators. Broke one on a PE rad but couldn't find the piece on the EK site. Won't let me post pics of it from my phone either.


This is what I'm looking for. Any ideas? Couldn't find it on the EK site.


----------



## zipeldiablo

Pretty sure it's supposed to be this part : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-nickel
You should ask the support though it seems a tad big


----------



## broodro0ster

M3TAl said:


> This is what I'm looking for. Any ideas? Couldn't find it on the EK site.


Open a ticket via their website. They are very helpful. I bought some spare O rings from them that weren't for sale on their normal website, but you can get them when you mail them.


----------



## Vlada011

broodro0ster said:


> Open a ticket via their website. They are very helpful. I bought some spare O rings from them that weren't for sale on their normal website, but you can get them when you mail them.


I think maybe these parts have something with my problem with Coolstream 360 radiator.
Maybe they cause to innecr core move 2-3cm left-right inside housing.
I will look one more time radiator if not I will send to EKWB I hope they will replace... But that's 20 euro shipping...
I was tried to avoid RMA if possible to save money. From other side buying new radiator 
is significant bigger price and stupid to stay with fault brand new radiator.


----------



## broodro0ster

Vlada011 said:


> I think maybe these parts have something with my problem with Coolstream 360 radiator.
> Maybe they cause to innecr core move 2-3cm left-right inside housing.
> I will look one more time radiator if not I will send to EKWB I hope they will replace... But that's 20 euro shipping...
> I was tried to avoid RMA if possible to save money. From other side buying new radiator
> is significant bigger price and stupid to stay with fault brand new radiator.


I paid 6.90euro's for shipping to Belgium for some small parts.


----------



## JedixJarf

M3TAl said:


> This is what I'm looking for. Any ideas? Couldn't find it on the EK site.
> 
> [/quote]
> 
> You are looking for g1/4 extenders.
> 
> [url]https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-extender-g1-4-socket-black[/url]


----------



## DarthBaggins

^ yup 

Also the full listing of said extenders, since you can get them in different lengths and rotary or not. Also those extenders come with their reservoirs (most of them).

Extenders and Spacers - EKWB


----------



## akira749

M3TAl said:


> This is what I'm looking for. Any ideas? Couldn't find it on the EK site.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Open a ticket on our website and we should be able to help out.

Link : https://www.ekwb.com/customer-care/


----------



## KedarWolf

I have a Maximus X Formula motherboard and the built in VRM blocks on it are EKWB. 
My CPU is on a EK Predator 360 with a quick disconnect and a Evo Supremacy waterblock 
Today I bought another quick disconnect, some black ZMT tubing, 2 black HFB fittings and four reusable clamps. 

I also have a 1080 Ti on a MLC Core 360 with quick disconnects with an EK block and backplate.

I'll be able to disassemble my entire system without draining the loop, the only trade-off is a bit lower flow rate due to the disconnects. I'm pretty happy with my setup and love EK.


----------



## Radnad

Probably been asked, tbh too lazy to look, but EK Fluid Gaming HDC fittings incoming?


----------



## KCDC

MNMadman said:


> I've had three EK PWM D5 pumps. I never had to use the soft damper -- even with the default damper, they were always silent for me.





Vlada011 said:


> Thanks, now you can give me answer how to create new RIG again under settings.
> I can't find options.
> 
> 
> I must ask one more thing... EK not tolerate sleeving XRES D5 Revo with MDPC-X and replacing white fan/molex connector with black.
> I have all of these stuff ready but I'm not sure... I will test pump first connecting inlet and outlet with little longer peace of tube and if work nicely I will sleeve.





Just wanna say that I do hear the pump since I changed to the normal damper. You can check my rig sig to see how it's set up and how close my tower is to me. During my next teardown, I'll be switching back to the softer, pyramid one. You won't hear the difference if your tower is further away from you, but if it's on your desktop, you might.


----------



## KedarWolf

KedarWolf said:


> I have a Maximus X Formula motherboard and the built in VRM blocks on it are EKWB.
> My CPU is on a EK Predator 360 with a quick disconnect and a Evo Supremacy waterblock
> Today I bought another quick disconnect, some black ZMT tubing, 2 black HFB fittings and four reusable clamps.
> 
> I also have a 1080 Ti on a MLC Core 360 with quick disconnects with an EK block and backplate.
> 
> I'll be able to disassemble my entire system without draining the loop, the only trade-off is a bit lower flow rate due to the disconnects. I'm pretty happy with my setup and love EK.


Edit: According to Asus I need to remove the EK VRM water block and flush it before attaching it to my loop. Is filling it with distilled water and shaking it, then draining the block okay? :h34r-smi

Second Edit: I think they are attached using thermal pads. I have some 1mm Fujipoly 17w/mk pads I think would work if they do use them.


----------



## Fediuld

Does anyone knows the Predator 360 flow diagram? Is it Pump -> QDC or Pump -> CPU

I want to plug an non EK waterblock, which has "IN & OUT" however IDK which way the water flows on the Predator.


----------



## Ceadderman

Fediuld said:


> Does anyone knows the Predator 360 flow diagram? Is it Pump -> QDC or Pump -> CPU
> 
> I want to plug an non EK waterblock, which has "IN & OUT" however IDK which way the water flows on the Predator.


Shouldn't matter so long as the Pred 360 pump is disconnected. If you're looking for security(as a failure backup) the I suggest mounting the new pump in line and paying attention to your temps. Turn your new pump on and was the thermal readings. If it starts going up, reverse the order to which that is flowing. Shouldn't take long at all. Two pumps pushing in opposite direction or facing each other will quickly reveal the correct order. IIRC it actually shows the order in the manual. I have the original Reservoir sitting in my parts bin but I don't recall if the order is stamped on the body or not. I will have to dig it out and check. Sadly my parts bin is in my closet and that's pretty cluttered atm. So if nobody gets back to you with the detailed information I will get back to ya with the order of flow at the pump side of things. :thinking:

Edit: The extension side of the unit is the pump outlet. The other is the reservoir inlet. The opposite side of the inlet is the fillport of the unit. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## ht_addict

Fediuld said:


> Does anyone knows the Predator 360 flow diagram? Is it Pump -> QDC or Pump -> CPU
> 
> I want to plug an non EK waterblock, which has "IN & OUT" however IDK which way the water flows on the Predator.


 The fluid flows in at the fill port on the pump assembly then out the pump. You can find the manual diagram on EKWB website at https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=Awr...3350.pdf/RK=2/RS=tchOdeQnWEDx6ekm3DQWU.jLsjI-


----------



## Ceadderman

I have edited my previous post. There is no stamping to otherwise show the flow of the system. But I did the RMA the part and that's how I remember it to be when I looked at it an hour ago. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Fediuld

ht_addict said:


> The fluid flows in at the fill port on the pump assembly then out the pump. You can find the manual diagram on EKWB website at https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=Awr...3350.pdf/RK=2/RS=tchOdeQnWEDx6ekm3DQWU.jLsjI-


Thanks. Is Pump -> CPU.  
@Ceadderman maybe you confused with someone elses?  I do not want to change the pump. Asked for the flow sequence to make sure I put a non EK waterblock correctly in the loop


----------



## Ceadderman

Fediuld said:


> Thanks. Is Pump -> CPU.
> 
> @Ceadderman maybe you confused with someone elses?  I do not want to change the pump. Asked for the flow sequence to make sure I put a non EK waterblock correctly in the loop


No matter. I gave you the information in the same post. The extension on the Res block is Outlet. That's the Inlet port for whatever block you have. :thumb:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Vlada011

I need to find new radiator, Coolstream PE 360 have flaw. 
This time I will go with something stronger as Hardwarelabs GTR. 

Look where is problem... radiator core in one corner have more space and that make noise when you move radiator. Only that corner.
Fins are perfect, maybe on pictures not look that but when you look directly they are literary perfect but I stay without radiator and throw money in garbage.










Here is video, I'm not sure it's completely fault but I can't risk. 

http://www.mediafire.com/file/am0ydbwd6v1x06v/Coolstream_PE.MOV/file


What you think guys???
I think design and thin of housing provide more chance to something like this happen easier than on GTR tank...or XSPC who have 3-4 times thicker aluminum housing almost from one peace. Is there significant difference between Nemesis GTR and XSPC AX I don't want to make mistake again.


----------



## iamjanco

Vlada011 said:


> I need to find new radiator, Coolstream PE 360 have flaw.
> This time I will go with something stronger as Hardwarelabs GTR.
> 
> Look where is problem... radiator core in one corner have more space and that make noise when you move radiator. Only that corner.
> Fins are perfect, maybe on pictures not look that but when you look directly they are literary perfect but I stay without radiator and throw money in garbage.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is video, I'm not sure it's completely fault but I can't risk.
> 
> http://www.mediafire.com/file/am0ydbwd6v1x06v/Coolstream_PE.MOV/file
> 
> What you think guys???
> I think design and thin of housing provide more chance to something like this happen easier than on GTR tank...or XSPC who have 3-4 times thicker aluminum housing almost from one peace. Is there significant difference between Nemesis GTR and XSPC AX I don't want to make mistake again.


XtremeRigs did a review of the PE360 and also noted that the outer shell seemed a bit flimsy. That said, the PE 360 can be disassembled to allow painting of that outer shell, and one or more fasteners may be loose, causing that rattling sound when you move it around. Make sure all fasteners are properly tightened (but don't over-tighten them doing so); see *https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/10/ek-pe-360-radiator-review/2/* for additional info, some of which follows:



> The EK PE360 is finished in a matte black paint which has a slightly rough feel to it. For the modders out there, in particular the painters, the PE360 design allows for much easier custom painting *by allow the core to be removed from the radiators encasing. The ports unscrew from the tank end and with the right size torx key the aluminum pieces can be taken off, allowing the core to be removed completely if the casing is to be painted.*


----------



## Vlada011

I read about same problems on overclocks.uk who say that Coolstream PE is terrible quality and strength.
You must be sure that I never complain without reason, and all problems I notice are usually problems recognized by others people.
I bought radiator, package arrived in perfect condition and look what I got. Its even bigger problems because I tried to unscrew housing and I stop because on 2 srews I couldn't unscrew with normal force.
And I stopped. That's almost 100 euro lost. I didn't understand completely principle of EK Coolstream PE radiator, I thought he is more stronger, I didn't expect to find aluminium surface thick like two papers.
Worse of everything is because I couldn't RMA because friend who bought for me travel and I can't find him during summer. 
EK spend a lot of money to sponsor project but left people who paid radiator with fault products. I will remember that.

Is it possible to unscrew these ports...










with this tank no such problems and pain..










Problem is because I didn't had 500 euro for watercooling.
Immediately I recognized searching modern radiators only with similar look as Coolstream and AX that Nemesis GTR must be something different.
That Eiszapfen are more shine fittings and I would only that parts both and everything else from EKWB. 
But that demand much much higher price because buying from two different stores an two more shipping cost higher than 15 euro.

Only that difference Hardware Labs Nemesis GTR 360 instead Coolstream PE 360 and Eiszapfen vs ACF Fittings would cost me 150 euro more. 
Not fittings they are similar, but shiping and GTR 360 is 190$ on Performance PC, less because performance difference, but they are probably same if you use them in 10 different rigs.
Now I know why.


----------



## MNMadman

@Vlada011

Have you tested the radiator to see if there's an actual problem? Movement of the core against the housing doesn't necessarily mean it's broken or won't work.


----------



## iamjanco

^ +1.

@Vlada011

I can relate to your pain, Vlad. You can remove the port fittings in the PE360 if you've got the right Allen wrench, but I'm not sure of the size you need. 

As for the smaller screws in the end, did you use a torx key wrench when you tried to remove those? A *torx key is different from an Allen wrench* and you can strip the heads in torx key screws if you try to remove them when an Allen wrench.

I don't use EK radiators myself, but do have a number of Hardware Labs radiators and can vouch for their quality.


----------



## Vlada011

MNMadman said:


> @Vlada011
> 
> Have you tested the radiator to see if there's an actual problem? Movement of the core against the housing doesn't necessarily mean it's broken or won't work.



No I didn't test, it's brand new, with sticker on label. 
I was afraid to try because you need to shake radiator when you wash him, and didn't want to shake to make problem worse even more. 
I will try to remove housing If I can because some screws are two tight. Probably because that problem. 

For port I will need Allen Key 9mm, hardest to find, not available in complete but I found store who sell them.
Or I will ask someone who have XE radiator to borrow me. That's not fair, XE got Allen Key 9, PE owners not.

Some guy sell Hardware Labs GTR on Ebay, new, but 280 size. 65$.
If someone find maybe Hardware Labs GTR 360 cheap, cheap could inform me on pp these days.


----------



## buellersdayoff

M3TAl said:


> This is what I'm looking for. Any ideas? Couldn't find it on the EK site.





Vlada011 said:


> No I didn't test, it's brand new, with sticker on label.
> I was afraid to try because you need to shake radiator when you wash him, and didn't want to shake to make problem worse even more.
> I will try to remove housing If I can because some screws are two tight. Probably because that problem.
> 
> For port I will need Allen Key 9mm, hardest to find, not available in complete but I found store who sell them.
> Or I will ask someone who have XE radiator to borrow me. That's not fair, XE got Allen Key 9, PE owners not.
> 
> Some guy sell Hardware Labs GTR on Ebay, new, but 280 size. 65$.
> If someone find maybe Hardware Labs GTR 360 cheap, cheap could inform me on pp these days.


You can remove those fittings, but be careful not to over tighten, see above


----------



## orvils

Vlada011 said:


> No I didn't test, it's brand new, with sticker on label.
> I was afraid to try because you need to shake radiator when you wash him, and didn't want to shake to make problem worse even more.
> I will try to remove housing If I can because some screws are two tight. Probably because that problem.
> 
> For port I will need Allen Key 9mm, hardest to find, not available in complete but I found store who sell them.
> Or I will ask someone who have XE radiator to borrow me. That's not fair, XE got Allen Key 9, PE owners not.
> 
> Some guy sell Hardware Labs GTR on Ebay, new, but 280 size. 65$.
> If someone find maybe Hardware Labs GTR 360 cheap, cheap could inform me on pp these days.


Take a look at watercoolinguk.co.uk
That is where I bought Hardware Labs GTS radiators. They ship across Europe. 
Shipping from UK to Latvia was around 20 euros vis DPD.


----------



## Vlada011

Yes, I'm aware but importing would cost me 190 euro with radiator price.
I will try best I can to find GTR 360. I'm almost sure that next case will be Jonsbo MOD1 Red Black.
Full thick-aluminum - tempered glass, Hardware Labs is in plan to stay on bottom on 3 NF-A12x25 PWM.

I must find someone with MOD1 to confirm me space between motherboard and bottom, to be sure GTR or GTS.

YES IN LATVIA, BECAUSE LATVIA IS EU, I LIVE IN ****-HOLE WESTERN BALKAN.
IF SOMEONE GIVE ME FOR FREE GTR I WOULD PAY HIM 35-40 EURO. 
i would really like to build with him 1st watercooling.

But there is very small number of pictures, information, reviews, videos, about GTR, I only could estimate that people are satisfied with 5-7 years old radiators and didn't change.
I hope I will change that.


----------



## Vlada011

ASUS prepare strong mobo line for Z390, I even hear i9-9900K will be soldered.
I hope EKWB and ASUS deal to launch Monoblocks for Hero/Code/Apex models.
Now Maximus X Code no Monoblock, most beautifull board, Formula is too expensive.


----------



## broodro0ster

Vlada011 said:


> Yes, I'm aware but importing would cost me 190 euro with radiator price.
> I will try best I can to find GTR 360. I'm almost sure that next case will be Jonsbo MOD1 Red Black.
> Full thick-aluminum - tempered glass, Hardware Labs is in plan to stay on bottom on 3 NF-A12x25 PWM.
> 
> I must find someone with MOD1 to confirm me space between motherboard and bottom, to be sure GTR or GTS.
> 
> YES IN LATVIA, BECAUSE LATVIA IS EU, I LIVE IN ****-HOLE WESTERN BALKAN.
> IF SOMEONE GIVE ME FOR FREE GTR I WOULD PAY HIM 35-40 EURO.
> i would really like to build with him 1st watercooling.
> 
> But there is very small number of pictures, information, reviews, videos, about GTR, I only could estimate that people are satisfied with 5-7 years old radiators and didn't change.
> I hope I will change that.


Why do you want the GTR? The GTX is better if you don't want to use >2000rpm fans. 
Also, try highflow.nl. They sell Hardware Labs radiators (I bought mine there) and it's in the EU.


----------



## Ceadderman

Please take the HWLabs talk elsewhere. This is an EK thread. While you do have a 360 PE Radiator and obviously wish to change that, you don't have to take the conversation further. Please take it to PM. :mellowsmi 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Vlada011

I only want to say No matter on radiator model, brand, thickness, fans will work on 1700RPM 24/7.
That's Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM with LNA PWM adapter, no fan noise and why not to use best from radiator.
Anyway 360mm radiator will cooldown CPU/VRM and very soon GPU as well and every RPM is welcomed.
Fan headers on Full Speed, max voltage Noctua with adapter from package, no complications, no optimization depend of temps.

Actualy Jonsbo MOD1 accept 360mm radiator on top, 360mm radiator on bottom, and in front on vertical position one more 360mm radiator.
Some of them probably need to be very thin, at least one to hold XRES Revo D5.


----------



## Vlada011

Can I use transparent bottle for CryoFuel Concentrate and Destilled water.
I will keep in dark and cold place, but mostly manufacturers keep coolant in not transparent, white bottle.
How much unused coolant Premix could last because I can't spend 800ml. I will mix 100ml clear concentrate with 800ml destilled water, not 900ml?
What you think? To strong concentrate or not...


----------



## Ceadderman

Can we(or if not why?) get 3 pack quantities in the EVO line? Gonna get 9 of the RGBs would be much simpler getting them in packs of 2,3 or even 4 to match the Radiator size 120-480, no? :thinking:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## R99photography

Hello,
sorry for the coming (maybe easy answer) question but I am a newbie in watercooling projects. I am running a EK XRES 140 D5 Revo PWM combo pump and I cannot understand how to connect the 4 pin connector (but it has only 2 wires). My target is not to control pump speed (at the moment) but only reading its speed in rpm, just to see it is working.
Now, on my motherboard (ASUS P8P67 DELUXE) I have these headers:

- CPU_FAN (4 pins): already connected to the XSPC fan hub for radiator fans;
- CHA1_FAN (4 pins):
- CHA2_FAN (3 pins);
- two 3-pin PWR_FAN.

I then have the Lamptron FC6 with three 3-pin connectors available.
May I connect the 4-pin pump connector to the Lamptron or CHA2_FAN on motherboard safely?

Thank you.
Riccardo


----------



## MNMadman

R99photography said:


> Hello,
> sorry for the coming (maybe easy answer) question but I am a newbie in watercooling projects. I am running a EK XRES 140 D5 Revo PWM combo pump and I cannot understand how to connect the 4 pin connector (but it has only 2 wires). My target is not to control pump speed (at the moment) but only reading its speed in rpm, just to see it is working.
> Now, on my motherboard (ASUS P8P67 DELUXE) I have these headers:
> 
> - CPU_FAN (4 pins): already connected to the XSPC fan hub for radiator fans;
> - CHA1_FAN (4 pins):
> - CHA2_FAN (3 pins);
> - two 3-pin PWR_FAN.
> 
> I then have the Lamptron FC6 with three 3-pin connectors available.
> May I connect the 4-pin pump connector to the Lamptron or CHA2_FAN on motherboard safely?
> 
> Thank you.
> Riccardo


Use either CPU-FAN or CHA1-FAN.


----------



## Ashcroft

R99photography said:


> Hello,
> sorry for the coming (maybe easy answer) question but I am a newbie in watercooling projects. I am running a EK XRES 140 D5 Revo PWM combo pump and I cannot understand how to connect the 4 pin connector (but it has only 2 wires). My target is not to control pump speed (at the moment) but only reading its speed in rpm, just to see it is working.
> Now, on my motherboard (ASUS P8P67 DELUXE) I have these headers:
> 
> - CPU_FAN (4 pins): already connected to the XSPC fan hub for radiator fans;
> - CHA1_FAN (4 pins):
> - CHA2_FAN (3 pins);
> - two 3-pin PWR_FAN.
> 
> I then have the Lamptron FC6 with three 3-pin connectors available.
> May I connect the 4-pin pump connector to the Lamptron or CHA2_FAN on motherboard safely?
> 
> Thank you.
> Riccardo


You can connect it anywhere. As you say the cable only has the rpm and PWM wires connected so unless you connect it to a proper PWM header you will simply get a speed reading from the rpm line. The Lamptron should be able to read its speed, its just a matter if the connector will fit.

Edit; Actually the lamptron possibly may not be able to read rpm while not supplying power to the device. The controller and device need to be on the same earth connection to read RPM. So it may work because they are on the same PSU or it may not.
Either way you can't hurt anything because the pumps PWM cable has no power wires.


----------



## Vlada011

On Rampage V Edition 10 I have 

1. 2x CPU Fan (CPU_OPT and CPU_FAN) for AIO System and fans
2. H_AMP_FAN for High Ampers Fans
3. 3x CHA_FAN 1-2-3 for normal chasis fans
4. 5pin EXT_FAN for ASUS Extension Fan Header Card
5. W_PUMP for Watercoling Pumps

But that's ASUS Rampage mobo, best motherboard on planet. 

Of course I will connect EKWB D5 to W_PUMP header and 3x NF-A12x25 from radiator on ASUS Extension Fan Header Card


----------



## R99photography

MNMadman said:


> Use either CPU-FAN or CHA1-FAN.





Ashcroft said:


> You can connect it anywhere. As you say the cable only has the rpm and PWM wires connected so unless you connect it to a proper PWM header you will simply get a speed reading from the rpm line. The Lamptron should be able to read its speed, its just a matter if the connector will fit.
> 
> Edit; Actually the lamptron possibly may not be able to read rpm while not supplying power to the device. The controller and device need to be on the same earth connection to read RPM. So it may work because they are on the same PSU or it may not.
> Either way you can't hurt anything because the pumps PWM cable has no power wires.


Hello for your replies but I am a little bit disoriented.
First, the pump 4-pin connector has wires on third and fourth position and I guess they are for RPM reading and PWM.

Second, the CHA_FAN1 has four pins, but the third is CHA_FAN_IN (which I don't know what it means), the fourth is the +5V, which I guess is not the same as a PWM. If you look at my picture above, the CPU_FAN has GND, CPU FAN PWR, CPU FAN IN and CPU FAN PWM so it is different, despite having 4 pins as well as the CHA_FAN1.

Third, a 3-pin connector (like CHA_FAN2 in the picture above or a connector of my Lamptron FC6) has this schema: GND, 12V, ROTATION. So I guess that connecting the 4-pin pump cable to it could result in matching the third position of 4-pin cable (RPM reading) to the third position of a 3-pin header, which is the channel for RPM reading.

Another question came up today to me is: does the pump run at 100% speed even if I don't connect the PWM connector to any header? I read different answer over the time on many forums.

Thank you.
Riccardo


----------



## broodro0ster

R99photography said:


> Hello for your replies but I am a little bit disoriented.
> First, the pump 4-pin connector has wires on third and fourth position and I guess they are for RPM reading and PWM.


Correct. Pin 3 is for RPM reading and pin 4 is for the PWM signal.


----------



## R99photography

broodro0ster said:


> Correct. Pin 3 is for RPM reading and pin 4 is for the PWM signal.


Ok, so may I connect the PWM cable to a 3-pin header to get rpm reading?

edit: ok, connected the PWM cable of my EK XRES 140 D5 REVO to the Lamptron FC6 3-pin connector. Now I have the pump rotation speed displayed (about 4500 rpm).


----------



## broodro0ster

R99photography said:


> Ok, so may I connect the PWM cable to a 3-pin header to get rpm reading?
> 
> edit: ok, connected the PWM cable of my EK XRES 140 D5 REVO to the Lamptron FC6 3-pin connector. Now I have the pump rotation speed on displayed (about 4500 rpm).


Yes. And vice versa is also possible. You can connect a 3 pin fan to a PWM header and just voltage control it if the controller supports this. If voltage control is not supported, the fan will spin at max speed (12v) and you will get an RPM reading.


----------



## Ashcroft

R99photography said:


> Hello for your replies but I am a little bit disoriented.
> First, the pump 4-pin connector has wires on third and fourth position and I guess they are for RPM reading and PWM.
> 
> Second, the CHA_FAN1 has four pins, but the third is CHA_FAN_IN (which I don't know what it means), the fourth is the +5V, which I guess is not the same as a PWM. If you look at my picture above, the CPU_FAN has GND, CPU FAN PWR, CPU FAN IN and CPU FAN PWM so it is different, despite having 4 pins as well as the CHA_FAN1.
> 
> Third, a 3-pin connector (like CHA_FAN2 in the picture above or a connector of my Lamptron FC6) has this schema: GND, 12V, ROTATION. So I guess that connecting the 4-pin pump cable to it could result in matching the third position of 4-pin cable (RPM reading) to the third position of a 3-pin header, which is the channel for RPM reading.
> 
> Another question came up today to me is: does the pump run at 100% speed even if I don't connect the PWM connector to any header? I read different answer over the time on many forums.
> 
> Thank you.
> Riccardo


The difference between the CPU and CHA FAN headers is that the CPU header is a genuine PWM header that sends a signal over pin 4 that the motor controller built into the fan can read and adjust motor speed. The CHA FAN header is a sort of fake PWM header that just uses voltage control to undervolt the fan and reduce its speed. 

To do this it supplys a constant 5V to pin 4, the PWM pin. Real PWM headers send constant 12V on the power lines and a 5V pulsed PWM signal on pin4. You can look up how different types of PWM work but basically, large gaps between pulses (its actually connections to ground, but that doesn't matter) means low speed and small gaps mean high speed. So when the fake header sends constant 5V (no gaps) on pin 4 it is the equivalent of a 100% PWM signal. So the fan tries to run at full speed. Then the fake header just reduces voltage on the 12V line to adjust fan speed.

Thats why the CPU header has pin 4 labled PWM while the CHA FAN header pin 4 is labled 5V.
The CHA-FAN-IN labled pin, (pin 3) is just another way of labling RPM. IN means feedback into the header from the fan ie RPM/Speed signal.

Not all PWM devices behave the same with no PWM signal present. Some will run at full speed and some will not. This is why the CHA FAN header fakes a 100% pwm signal so it can guarantee a device running at full speed that can then be undervolted. 

According to some manufacturers, undervolting PWM devices is not good for them as their internal motor control circuitry is designed to always be supplied 12V. However others like Noctua include undervolting adaptors with some of their PWM devices.


----------



## d0mmie

Ashcroft said:


> The difference between the CPU and CHA FAN headers is that the CPU header is a genuine PWM header that sends a signal over pin 4 that the motor controller built into the fan can read and adjust motor speed. The CHA FAN header is a sort of fake PWM header that just uses voltage control to undervolt the fan and reduce its speed.
> 
> To do this it supplys a constant 5V to pin 4, the PWM pin. Real PWM headers send constant 12V on the power lines and a 5V pulsed PWM signal on pin4. So when the fake header sends constant 5V on pin 4 it is the equivalent of a 100% PWM signal so the fan tries to run at full speed. Then the fake header just reduces voltage on the 12V line to adjust fan speed.
> 
> Thats why the CPU header has pin 4 labled PWM while the CHA FAN header pin 4 is labled 5V.
> 
> Not all PWM devices behave the same with no PWM signal present. Some will run at full speed and some will not. This is why the CHA FAN header fakes a 100% pwm signal so it can guarantee a device running at full speed that can then be undervolted.
> 
> According to some manufacturers, undervolting PWM devices is not good for them as their internal motor control circuitry is designed to always be supplied 12V. However others like Noctua include undervolting adaptors with some of their PWM devices.


That really depends on the type of motherboard and manufacturer. MSI has been known to only provide true PWM signal on their CPU_Fan output, compared to ASUS who uses PWM for most boards on all connectors for the ROG/Strix/TUF/Prime brands. As an example, my ASUS Z270 TUF Mark.1 motherboard I use a Swiftech 8 port PWM hub on my CHA_FAN2 outout. If that was a fake PWM signal controlled by voltage, the fan hub wouldn't work as it only connects PWM and Tach signal to the motherboard and uses a SATA connector for power.


----------



## R99photography

Ashcroft said:


> The difference between the CPU and CHA FAN headers is that the CPU header is a genuine PWM header that sends a signal over pin 4 that the motor controller built into the fan can read and adjust motor speed. The CHA FAN header is a sort of fake PWM header that just uses voltage control to undervolt the fan and reduce its speed.
> 
> To do this it supplys a constant 5V to pin 4, the PWM pin. Real PWM headers send constant 12V on the power lines and a 5V pulsed PWM signal on pin4. So when the fake header sends constant 5V on pin 4 it is the equivalent of a 100% PWM signal so the fan tries to run at full speed. Then the fake header just reduces voltage on the 12V line to adjust fan speed.
> 
> Thats why the CPU header has pin 4 labled PWM while the CHA FAN header pin 4 is labled 5V.
> 
> Not all PWM devices behave the same with no PWM signal present. Some will run at full speed and some will not. This is why the CHA FAN header fakes a 100% pwm signal so it can guarantee a device running at full speed that can then be undervolted.
> 
> According to some manufacturers, undervolting PWM devices is not good for them as their internal motor control circuitry is designed to always be supplied 12V. However others like Noctua include undervolting adaptors with some of their PWM devices.


Hello, many thanks for this really clear explanation. I could not find out something of more understandable on the web so far.
However, I decided to connect the PWM to the Lamptron which has only 3 pin connectors because I am only interested to the rpm speed at the moment.
Thank you.


----------



## Fediuld

Has anyone used the EK monoblock with the Asrock X399M board?

According to many articles like this one 

https://www.overclock3d.net/news/ca...ripper_monoblock_for_asus_x399_motherboards/1

The monoblock is compatible with the X399M, however on the EK webpage is not included on the compatible motherboards. 

Contacted the EK support and seems they have no idea -_- pointing me at their own page which doesn't contain the X399M on the list. 
Even if it looks compatible given the VRM layout on the board, and comparing it with the picture of the back side of the monoblock sent by EK.


----------



## Ashcroft

d0mmie said:


> That really depends on the type of motherboard and manufacturer. MSI has been known to only provide true PWM signal on their CPU_Fan output, compared to ASUS who uses PWM for most boards on all connectors for the ROG/Strix/TUF/Prime brands. As an example, my ASUS Z270 TUF Mark.1 motherboard I use a Swiftech 8 port PWM hub on my CHA_FAN2 outout. If that was a fake PWM signal controlled by voltage, the fan hub wouldn't work as it only connects PWM and Tach signal to the motherboard and uses a SATA connector for power.



Yep, most boards are full proper PWM these days. We were only talking about his specific board and explaining in detail what the differences were and why.

My Z77 Sabertooth has some fake PWM headers but my X99 Sabertooth has all PWM. Its normally easy enough to tell if a header is PWM these days by looking in the BIOS. If it has a PWM/VC switch on the header its true PWM.
I've come across cases on ASUS boards where the manual has incorrect pinout labling on some headers though they normally updated the manual with a revision.

The fake PWM headers was one of the main reasons I originally went to an Aquaero fan control system and then they went and made new boards all true PWM. Still, once you go Aquaero you won't go back.


----------



## Leonko

Fediuld said:


> Has anyone used the EK monoblock with the Asrock X399M board?
> 
> According to many articles like this one
> 
> https://www.overclock3d.net/news/ca...ripper_monoblock_for_asus_x399_motherboards/1
> 
> The monoblock is compatible with the X399M, however on the EK webpage is not included on the compatible motherboards.
> 
> Contacted the EK support and seems they have no idea -_- pointing me at their own page which doesn't contain the X399M on the list.
> Even if it looks compatible given the VRM layout on the board, and comparing it with the picture of the back side of the monoblock sent by EK.


open your eyes  according to this https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/ they have it on their website


----------



## KedarWolf

Leonko said:


> open your eyes  according to this https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/ they have it on their website


No monoblock listed for the X399M on the Configurator page.


----------



## KedarWolf

When I hook up my VRM water block to my CPU loop and am getting 45C temps instead of 65C, how will that help me overclock?

Edit. When I hook up my motherboards VRM water block to my EK Predator 360 CPU loop, how do I get the air out? My CPU temps were terrible, I try moving my case all around, can't get the coolant to flow I think, I had to remove the VRM water block and temps back to normal now.


----------



## buellersdayoff

Lowering core components temps like cpu and gpu helps with stability at the absolute limit (you know that already), vrm @60c pushing ~1.4v to a cpu is hardly at the limits for the vrm components, so not likely to do much other than maybe longevity of the vrm. Someone who knows more about vrm...?
All this is why I stopped wasting money and time on water cooling, a cpu @ 1.4v, a gpu @ 1.1v can easily be cooled (enough) by good air cooling components (at reasonable ambient, say ~25c or lower) each to their own of course
Edit; Just saw your edit, pretty sure most people that have added vrm water cooling via mono block or separate block like you have said their cpu temp suffered. Did you set it up cpu before vrm? I know loop order doesn't make much difference but depending on pump speed, rad space and coolant temp it could slightly


----------



## KedarWolf

buellersdayoff said:


> Lowering core components temps like cpu and gpu helps with stability at the absolute limit (you know that already), vrm @60c pushing ~1.4v to a cpu is hardly at the limits for the vrm components, so not likely to do much other than maybe longevity of the vrm. Someone who knows more about vrm...?
> All this is why I stopped wasting money and time on water cooling, a cpu @ 1.4v, a gpu @ 1.1v can easily be cooled (enough) by good air cooling components (at reasonable ambient, say ~25c or lower) each to their own of course
> Edit; Just saw your edit, pretty sure most people that have added vrm water cooling via mono block or separate block like you have said their cpu temp suffered. Did you set it up cpu before vrm? I know loop order doesn't make much difference but depending on pump speed, rad space and coolant temp it could slightly


Had the CPU setup, added the VRM block, temps were 80c on BIOS defaults like there was an air blockage, not normal at all. Normally I get around 30c on idle. I tried moving the case around to move the air out, temps went down to about 50C but I think there still was an air blockage, they would hit 80C again when I applied my BIOS settings profile.


----------



## Ashcroft

KedarWolf said:


> When I hook up my VRM water block to my CPU loop and am getting 45C temps instead of 65C, how will that help me overclock?
> 
> Edit. When I hook up my motherboards VRM water block to my EK Predator 360 CPU loop, how do I get the air out? My CPU temps were terrible, I try moving my case all around, can't get the coolant to flow I think, I had to remove the VRM water block and temps back to normal now.


To get the air out you open the fill port on the res and add fluid. 

The predator isn't really ideal for adding bare blocks to as the res is tiny so it would be a slow process requiring great care to fill and bleed it. Thats why new sections come pre-filled.

The temps were probably bad because of very large air pockets through the loop.


----------



## KedarWolf

Ashcroft said:


> To get the air out you open the fill port on the res and add fluid.
> 
> The predator isn't really ideal for adding bare blocks to as the res is tiny so it would be a slow process requiring great care to fill and bleed it. Thats why new sections come pre-filled.
> 
> The temps were probably bad because of very large air pockets through the loop.


Yeah, I topped off the res with coolant, still a big problem.


----------



## Ashcroft

KedarWolf said:


> Yeah, I topped off the res with coolant, still a big problem.


You would need to do that multiple times though of course. Ideally you would only power on the pump in brief spurts while doing it. Maybe even need to do it with the system oriented so that the res is fully above the pump. 

Introducing a full bare block and extra tubing is a lot of air to displace and risks damage to the pump without care. 

Of course maybe you mean you went through all that rigmarole


----------



## KedarWolf

Ashcroft said:


> You would need to do that multiple times though of course. Ideally you would only power on the pump in brief spurts while doing it. Maybe even need to do it with the system oriented so that the res is fully above the pump.
> 
> Introducing a full bare block and extra tubing is a lot of air to displace and risks damage to the pump without care.
> 
> Of course maybe you mean you went through all that rigmarole


I just turned it on and topped off the res. I know everything is working okay because I removed the VRM and the CPU temps are normal again. I used very little hose but the hose from the VRM to the CPU block was a very short very tight loop, like half a circle, and I think the air was caught there. 

Edit: And I tried rotating the case on all it's ends to get the air to move, temps got a bit better but not close to being normal. With the pump running.


----------



## buellersdayoff

KedarWolf said:


> I just turned it on and topped off the res. I know everything is working okay because I removed the VRM and the CPU temps are normal again. I used very little hose but the hose from the VRM to the CPU block was a very short very tight loop, like half a circle, and I think the air was caught there.
> 
> Edit: And I tried rotating the case on all it's ends to get the air to move, temps got a bit better but not close to being normal. With the pump running.


I had the predator 240 before the whole rma/refund thing they did, but had no issues when adding a second 240 and 980ti block to it (aside from the bleed rigmarole lol) all worked once the air was finally bled properly. Not long after setting it up I got the email to say that they're offering refunds, so I took it went with full custom loop with a small res, much easier to bleed. It does sound like air pocket or something though


----------



## Fediuld

KedarWolf said:


> I just turned it on and topped off the res. I know everything is working okay because I removed the VRM and the CPU temps are normal again. I used very little hose but the hose from the VRM to the CPU block was a very short very tight loop, like half a circle, and I think the air was caught there.
> 
> Edit: And I tried rotating the case on all it's ends to get the air to move, temps got a bit better but not close to being normal. With the pump running.


Relax. Initially had same issue until I figure out the problem, because I installed an empty block (Bykski for the Vega 64 Nitro+) and had similar issue. 

First thing you need to do it remove the predator 360 from the case and unplug all power cables from the mother boards. 
Then you need to attach the special adaptor to power up your unit away from the motherboard. 

Get some distilled water, the Maygem 5lt is good stuff. Also get an EK refill bottle. 

Plug the 24 pin motherboard power connector to the special watercooling connector with the single cable to jam it. 
Tip upside down the radiator at higher elevation than the waterblocks. Open the plug and pour water in there until it fills. 

Power your PSU - Predator while you have the waterblock upside down. As you hold it with one hand pour water in it as it goes down. After 5 minutes of usage. turn everything off and put the plug back in. Make it tight but not too tight to break the O rings. 
Place the radiator sideways with the pipes down and the filling plug facing up. 

Remove the plug, power the predator again and let it run, if you see water dissapearing from the plug hole fill it up. 
Lift the unit and tilt is slowly towards the pump side 10-15 degrees. You will year water moving. 

Put it back down and refill if water is missing while the unit is working 

When you cannot pour more water in. Plug hole and tilt the radiator fully 90 degrees to it's pump side. You will hear water moving. Put it back again horizontaly like before and check if more water is needed. 
Continue like that until it doesn't need more water. 

It takes more time to read the above text than the time it takes for the whole job to be done.


----------



## Frapboy

Has anyone experienced trouble disassembling the EK-XTOP Revo D5 plexi pump?

I want to clean the insides but seems like the locking nut is stucked. EK Support recommended heating it up with a hair dryer first. I've tried it but still won't budge.


----------



## Blze001

Can someone explain the difference between the backplate for the 1070 and 1080ti? Both cards are Founder's Editions, aren't the bolt patterns the same?

Not really seeing why the waterblock is universal across FE 1070s/1080s but the backplates arent.


----------



## MNMadman

Blze001 said:


> Can someone explain the difference between the backplate for the 1070 and 1080ti? Both cards are Founder's Editions, aren't the bolt patterns the same?
> 
> Not really seeing why the waterblock is universal across FE 1070s/1080s but the backplates arent.


The backplate itself looks to be the same. The 1080Ti backplate includes more thermal pads to cover more chips/areas on the back of the GPU. Evidently, the 1070/1080 doesn't need to have those.


----------



## DarthBaggins

My 1080's backplate had thermal pads for it when I was still running a 1080. But I did notice small differences between it and the Ti's block and backplate (mainly screw placement and how it was milled)


----------



## Blze001

Well darn, guess I have to get the new backplate. I was hoping I could just reuse the one on my 1070 and save some bucks on this upgrade.

On a slightly related note, do you guys think my two SE240 rads will be enough for an 8700k and 1080ti? The only other option I'd really have is go to a 280 rad up front and a 120 on the rear exhaust. I might be able to do non-slim, but that would be cutting it pretty close up front.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
You don't really need a back plate it will cool better without one.


----------



## jvillaveces

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You don't really need a back plate it will cool better without one.



That is probably true for merely decorative backplates but it's plain wrong for the sort of backplates provided with modern cards or by add-on vendors such as EK or Heatkiller. That's why modern cards include them from the factory


----------



## Streetdragon

in my GPU block i have a little bit of "dust" on the jet fin. looks a bit white (clear coolant).

i dont wanna open the block(two left hands). so what is the easyest solution to clean the block? It has a acrylic top. So im afraid to use vinegar or hot water


----------



## Jsunn

Hello, 

I wanted to get a replacement O-ring for my EK 1080ti block. 

I can only find this one, and the 1080ti isn't listed. Can anyone confirm that this one will work with the 1080Ti FE?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc980-gtx-o-ring.html



Thank you!
-Jason


----------



## DarthBaggins

I doubt it really will, I would go through EK's site and see if they happen to have the o-ring you're looking for.


----------



## Jsunn

DarthBaggins said:


> I doubt it really will, I would go through EK's site and see if they happen to have the o-ring you're looking for.


I reached out to EK directly, that is the only part that they have on their site as well. 

-Jason


----------



## DarthBaggins

I can see if I have a spare once I get back to Atlanta :thumb: or if someone I know down there might have a solution.


----------



## waltercaorle

A question. where can I find an anticyclone like this or, alternatively, something compatible?
I can not find it on the ek website
Currently I have the classic sponge


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Does anyone know if EK duraclear is as problematic with non EK fittings as EK ZMT tubing ? Because trying to use ZMT with barrow fittings is a nightmare it`s just way too thick, and after ur done with 10 fittings ur fingers are bleeding.


----------



## Ceadderman

waltercaorle said:


> A question. where can I find an anticyclone like this or, alternatively, something compatible?
> I can not find it on the ek website
> Currently I have the classic sponge


EKWB.com

Or if you're in the States or one of the areas they serve, Performance-PCs.com should have them in stock.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## DarthBaggins

outofmyheadyo said:


> Does anyone know if EK duraclear is as problematic with non EK fittings as EK ZMT tubing ? Because trying to use ZMT with barrow fittings is a nightmare it`s just way too thick, and after ur done with 10 fittings ur fingers are bleeding.


I've used Barrow fittings with zmt, you have to make sure you have the right sizes (3/8x5/8 or 10x16mm)


----------



## outofmyheadyo

yes i have the right sizes and every other tubing ive tried is fine with those fittings, just ek cant produce zmt up to the spec.


----------



## Jyve

waltercaorle said:


> A question. where can I find an anticyclone like this or, alternatively, something compatible?
> I can not find it on the ek website
> Currently I have the classic sponge


I might have a 2nd floating around somewhere if you want it. I had a seperate res with my predator then another when I got my pump/res combo. That is if you're looking for an actual ek one.


----------



## broodro0ster

waltercaorle said:


> A question. where can I find an anticyclone like this or, alternatively, something compatible?
> I can not find it on the ek website
> Currently I have the classic sponge




Email support. They can help you with replacement parts.


----------



## Streetdragon

outofmyheadyo said:


> yes i have the right sizes and every other tubing ive tried is fine with those fittings, just ek cant produce zmt up to the spec.


It fits so far. after i cleaned my loop my finger were bleeding too, because of the tight fit. But with WD-40 you can tight them down without problems.

And tight = leakfree^^


----------



## Zfast4y0u

not sure if this is right place to ask, if yes im sorry.

i have costume wc setup from ek, rads, blocks, pump, reservoir, etc.

im gonna do luube change in a month or two and was wondering, can i flush radiators with hot tap water? will it cause corrosion over time in my new luube if i do it (in rads)? or must i use destiled water?

i have x1 blood red from mayhems atm.


----------



## Streetdragon

You are fine with hot tap water. Just do one flush with distiled water afterwards


----------



## Ceadderman

Streetdragon said:


> You are fine with hot tap water. Just do one flush with distiled water afterwards


I wouldn't use tap for anything water cooling. Too much chance of calcification happening. Distilled is cheap enough that I would suggest getting a few jugs of distilled and using a jug and flushing with one. The last one use for cooling solution.

_______________

WD40...  ...that stuff can't possibly be good for watercooling components. 

You don't need to seat the collar all the way down the thread to contact the base. Just run them down until they won't go any further by hand. I use rubber bands to obtain grip and spare my hands. Work gloves work too. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Streetdragon

In north germany tap water is really good and clean. So here we have no problem with calc or other dirt^^
And as long as the WD-40 is only on the outside of the tube(ZMT) there is no problem ether^^ With other soft tube... dont know But rubber is fine


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Ceadderman said:


> I wouldn't use tap for anything water cooling. Too much chance of calcification happening. Distilled is cheap enough that I would suggest getting a few jugs of distilled and using a jug and flushing with one. The last one use for cooling solution.


i seriously doubt one quick wash with it, and on end with destiled flush out will leave any effect on inside. where i live there is almost to zero calc in tap water, literally. meh, in the end i will use mineral water haha xD


----------



## DarthBaggins

Also distilled water isn't always the cheapest for everyone, here in the US it is but I know other parts of the world it is not


----------



## Zammin

I have emails/messages from EK support recommending flushing their radiators with hot tap water and finishing with distilled water. So tap water is fine as long as you don't leave it in there. They also said you can use a mixture of hot/warm water and a bit of white vinegar as well.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

nah, no reason to leave water in, just flush it few times for all ''gunk'' to get out if there is any.

anyone know, are there temp gains between x1 blood red and x1 clear (no dye)?


----------



## Jyve

Zammin said:


> I have emails/messages from EK support recommending flushing their radiators with hot tap water and finishing with distilled water. So tap water is fine as long as you don't leave it in there. They also said you can use a mixture of hot/warm water and a bit of white vinegar as well.


Be careful with the vinegar. It doesn't react well with nickel plating.


----------



## MNMadman

Zfast4y0u said:


> anyone know, are there temp gains between x1 blood red and x1 clear (no dye)?


The difference between clear coolant and transparent colored coolant is a few drops of coloring. No effect on temps. Even opaque coolant is still mostly water with coloring and particles and additives in it.

If somebody did a real review of coolants, there may be a difference of a couple of degrees (between transparent and opaque). Nothing earth-shattering though.


----------



## Zammin

Jyve said:


> Be careful with the vinegar. It doesn't react well with nickel plating.


Thanks for the heads up. They only said to use it with radiators and to do a good amount of flushing with water afterward, for example vinegar followed by a number of hot water flushes followed by a couple of distilled water flushes.


----------



## tistou77

Hello

I will probably replace my Koolance 390i with ekwb supremacy EVO (to test the direct die, not good with the Koolance I think after testing the installation)
I do not remember which jetplate is best for Skylake-X (LGA2066)

Thanks


----------



## Jyve

Zammin said:


> Jyve said:
> 
> 
> 
> Be careful with the vinegar. It doesn't react well with nickel plating.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the heads up. They only said to use it with radiators and to do a good amount of flushing with water afterward, for example vinegar followed by a number of hot water flushes followed by a couple of distilled water flushes.
Click to expand...

Exactly. Just making sure you knew.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks like JAC - Temper Tantrum survived it's 4th 1300 mile trip across the east coast back to Atlanta from Nantucket. Also got a bit of a dusting before I put it in it's current temporary spot until I can find a new home/apartment


----------



## skingun

Just had a notification that RTX GPU blocks are live for preorder in EU.


----------



## alextheguy

For those with experience, is the Define Nano S able to accommodate EKWB EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM? Or will the reservoir be too long?


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

skingun said:


> Just had a notification that RTX GPU blocks are live for preorder in EU.


Yep I ordered mine. Shame that the backplate won't ship until October 5th.


----------



## Silent Scone

@akira749 A lot of 2080 cards currently aren't yet on the compatibility list for the Vector blocks (understandable). Can anyone there confirm if the MSI Duke, ASUS Turbo and ASUS Dual will be compatible, please?


List as of this moment:


----------



## skingun

I'm holding out for the time being to see what else becomes available.


----------



## Vlada011

I don't know if I somehow upgrade on RTX 2000 Series Vector Nickel + Acetal look great to me.
Tomorrow my long long waiting case from Hungary arrive, first that model in my country and my watercooling build start...


----------



## Silent Scone

Vlada011 said:


> I don't know if I somehow upgrade on RTX 2000 Series Vector Nickel + Acetal look great to me.
> Tomorrow my long long waiting case from Hungary arrive, first that model in my country and my watercooling build start...


I think the Acetal blocks look great, always go with them for my builds.


----------



## Vlada011

Now is Nickel + Acetal, Copper + Acetal.
I think Acetal is dominat to Plexi... I mean on thread strength.


Guys, someone had problem with yellowish Cryo Fuel Clear Coolant, Concentrat?
I thought to use Cryo Fuel for leak testing but now I afraid... I will use clean destilled water before Mayhem X1 Red.
Some guys on net say It' BAD BATCH.

I have one question.
What is purpose of these flat parts on Male to Male Rotary adapter.
I didn't saw that on pictures...


----------



## Zfast4y0u

to unscrew it with wrench when u went too hard making sure its water tight xDDD


----------



## Vlada011

Zfast4y0u said:


> to unscrew it with wrench when u went too hard making sure its water tight xDDD


No, I will use fingers only... wrench probably could deform thread in radiator or pump top if you are not carefull.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah always tighten by hand


----------



## Nighthog

Vlada011 said:


> No, I will use fingers only... wrench probably could deform thread in radiator or pump top if you are not carefull.





DarthBaggins said:


> Yeah always tighten by hand


I would have liked to have something of such a wrench feature on my alphacool fittings. I had tightened down them so hard it was impossible to unscrew some fittings when I added and rearranged some things in my loop. I tried and tried until I went and got the big pliers and brute-forced them off. Lots of scratches and some mangled parts as result... Damn was I pissed, I was trying for a half hour or more to unscrew them, lots of skin lost.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Nighthog said:


> I would have liked to have something of such a wrench feature on my alphacool fittings. I had tightened down them so hard it was impossible to unscrew some fittings when I added and rearranged some things in my loop. I tried and tried until I went and got the big pliers and brute-forced them off. Lots of scratches and some mangled parts as result... Damn was I pissed, I was trying for a half hour or more to unscrew them, lots of skin lost.


tell me about it xDD guy thinks i was joking hahah  i have done it to mine, just put something over fitting so u dont scratch it. it does good job. HELL YEE


----------



## Vlada011

Why you do that when you could use Allen Key, inside fitting.
Fingers are enough to preven leaking without wrench, without anything.
If fitting and O-ring are OK it's enough to tight as much you can with fingers with all force and that's it. Nothing more.

I just use to flush radiator with bad batch of yellowish Cryo Fuel.
No to much residues from radiator but it's visible.

3x times flush with CryoFuel
1x time with hot destilled water
2x times with hold destilled water
Drying. How long, I'm not sure... I belive they don't be to dry completely before use, but I will wait 24-48h with open port.


You with Alphacool fittings... you have Eiszapfen Chrome series or older models ?
For now no one didn't review, photos or similar with Eiszapfen fittings, and they could be really nice stuff.
EK ACF are more reliable than previous Alphacool fittings, but new Eiszapfen shine better.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

guys, i wrote when you want to UNscrew it but you are unable with fingers, ok? Who in his healthy mind would screw fittings in, with wrench? xDD


----------



## Vlada011

Cleaning EK Coolstream PE is finished, exactly 8 flushing, actually after 7 I didn't saw traces more but I decide one more time.
Now I left him opened near window to dry until Monday.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Vlada011 said:


> Cleaning EK Coolstream PE is finished, exactly 8 flushing, actually after 7 I didn't saw traces more but I decide one more time.
> Now I left him opened near window to dry until Monday.


and how much gunk did come out?


----------



## Ceadderman

Vlada011 said:


> Why you do that when you could use Allen Key, inside fitting.
> Fingers are enough to preven leaking without wrench, without anything.
> If fitting and O-ring are OK it's enough to tight as much you can with fingers with all force and that's it. Nothing more.
> 
> I just use to flush radiator with bad batch of yellowish Cryo Fuel.
> No to much residues from radiator but it's visible.
> 
> 3x times flush with CryoFuel
> 1x time with hot destilled water
> 2x times with hold destilled water
> Drying. How long, I'm not sure... I belive they don't be to dry completely before use, but I will wait 24-48h with open port.
> 
> 
> You with Alphacool fittings... you have Eiszapfen Chrome series or older models ?
> For now no one didn't review, photos or similar with Eiszapfen fittings, and they could be really nice stuff.
> EK ACF are more reliable than previous Alphacool fittings, but new Eiszapfen shine better.


EK fittings like those come with Predator. Ever tried removing them with tubing? Allen key slots are worthless at that point. That's why. Those are only good for removing the tubing from the fittings. :thumb:

I was going to chime in on the subject initially but since it was answered I decided to hang back.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Vlada011

Zfast4y0u said:


> and how much gunk did come out?


Not much...

First Time...











This later 2-3 time










After that very small barely visible and than stop after 6-7 flush...
You see how is bad batch of coolant... that's cleaned with him and later with destilled water.

Mostly get out when I used hot water, I boiled destilled water in stainless steel pot, perfectly clean and left to temperature drop on 60-70% of boiled and than shake.
Problem was because on my radiator housing is somehow 2mm bigger than core, there is space and that annoy me so much and EKWB was really OK and recommended me RMA.
I don't know and can't figure out what that happen and how that didn't happen on other samples.Because of that I kept and core and housing to avoid to core of radiator constantly make clicking sound. I think I posted video somewhere... but it's here...
What would you do, sinceraly... check video, maybe is little even worse than video show...

http://www.mediafire.com/file/am0ydbwd6v1x06v/Coolstream+PE.MOV


----------



## Zfast4y0u

lol! EK quality control at its best, i bought T spliter fitting from ek and inside of it was just partly painted

im still not sure is it corrosion or just painted gipsy style. none the less i have it in system now xD


https://i.imgur.com/B4cmTtK.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/f80SUDQ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ACw0CMV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/umHq93Y.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/akUBBbH.jpg


you cant see on pics but top part inside is painted but everything else has this black dots.


If u dont wanna RMA and wait for new one, you can unscrew the housing and see why is it lose like that, maybe u can fix it, try it out, its few screws to remove. ( idk if that void ur warranty so do what YOU think its best! )


I have 360mm 60mm thick rad from ek, and when i cramp my d5 dual revo pump to 65% and drop it back to 25% speed, rad starts cracking xDD probably cause of pressure pump puts to inside parts ( yo anyone have this sort of behavior too??? ).


----------



## Nighthog

Vlada011 said:


> You with Alphacool fittings... you have Eiszapfen Chrome series or older models ?
> For now no one didn't review, photos or similar with Eiszapfen fittings, and they could be really nice stuff.
> EK ACF are more reliable than previous Alphacool fittings, but new Eiszapfen shine better.


I went with the "previous" gen Alphacool fittings, not the Eiszapfen ones. Though they are 98% the same I reckon. 

Alphacool HF deep black.

Alphacool HF fittings seem to be the same as the Eiszapfen but on one diffrence the "new" are ALSO coloured on the inside, HF aren't painted inside. 
I have now used 15, 90degree rotaries and haven't had a single leak on first try and 2 rebuilds. 
Though they do "wiggle" more than I first thought was safe, I thought I broke them the first time around but they are fine.


----------



## Vlada011

Zfast4y0u said:


> lol! EK quality control at its best, i bought T spliter fitting from ek and inside of it was just partly painted
> 
> im still not sure is it corrosion or just painted gipsy style. none the less i have it in system now xD
> 
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/B4cmTtK.jpg
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/f80SUDQ.jpg
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/ACw0CMV.jpg
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/umHq93Y.jpg
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/akUBBbH.jpg
> 
> 
> you cant see on pics but top part inside is painted but everything else has this black dots.
> 
> 
> If u dont wanna RMA and wait for new one, you can unscrew the housing and see why is it lose like that, maybe u can fix it, try it out, its few screws to remove. ( idk if that void ur warranty so do what YOU think its best! )
> 
> 
> I have 360mm 60mm thick rad from ek, and when i cramp my d5 dual revo pump to 65% and drop it back to 25% speed, rad starts cracking xDD probably cause of pressure pump puts to inside parts ( yo anyone have this sort of behavior too??? ).



I saw exactly same problem on splitter on ROG Forum, one guy asked me. Than I start to google and saw 2-3 people complain on same problem.
My X- Spliter is not like that it's perfectly shine inside. 
Maybe you don't see best on picture but nothing is inside...
This is my X Spliter, as you see inside is normal...










Yes I will do that definitely with radiator, in Monday I go to use Allen Key 9mm, I need him to remove housing. 
Definitely I'm curious why core wobble inside, it's not logic. I must see how much is RMA from Serbia to Slovenia, I think sending is cheaper than in rest of Europe. 
Now worry me and other thing... if housing is so gentle and they replace me radiator I need very carefull and very gently to shake him to clean residues inside before use.
Because looks like nothing keep together core and housing, only thin mask, if mask is just little not connected perfectly core will move. Or at least that's my impression.


Alphacool Eiszapfen fittings are not as Alphacool HF... 
It's different finish, Alphacool say more durable, they shine better and look more quality, but that' is not warranty for anything.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

that was me asking. but no1 bothered to answer. im pretty sure its not corrosion cause color is same as painted part of it (top one that u cant see) anyway when i do lube change i will take a look on it and if it got worse its going out of system.



about rads, i srsly doubt this radiators are so fragile like you think. frame must be stable enough to hold their own weight plus water inside plus fans, and all that hangs on frame itself. it can be they didnt assembly it correctly.


----------



## Vlada011

Zfast4y0u said:


> that was me asking. but no1 bothered to answer. im pretty sure its not corrosion cause color is same as painted part of it (top one that u cant see) anyway when i do lube change i will take a look on it and if it got worse its going out of system.
> 
> 
> 
> about rads, i srsly doubt this radiators are so fragile like you think. frame must be stable enough to hold their own weight plus water inside plus fans, and all that hangs on frame itself. it can be they didnt assembly it correctly.


Yes and I thought same, they didn't properly connected housing to be tight and now we can't do nothing. 
I don't know how they do that, with machine or by hand. 
We will see... I hate only to wait RMA that's all.


----------



## poisson21

From memory of a review i read recently the housing and core of their radiator are not held tighly, the core is maintained in place with the riser that are present on the fitting, and the housing is easily removable. @Zfast4y0u ,the T splitter not painted inside is normal, it's spray painted, not dip in paint, also it's cosmetic so it's useless to paint inside (and a hassle) and if it is paint inside, the paint can flock and go into your loop.
And @Vlada011 , yours is shinny inside because it is nickel plated, and the process to make it applied nickel on it all.


----------



## broodro0ster

Zfast4y0u said:


> lol! EK quality control at its best, i bought T spliter fitting from ek and inside of it was just partly painted
> 
> im still not sure is it corrosion or just painted gipsy style. none the less i have it in system now xD
> 
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/B4cmTtK.jpg
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/f80SUDQ.jpg
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/ACw0CMV.jpg
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/umHq93Y.jpg
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/akUBBbH.jpg
> 
> 
> you cant see on pics but top part inside is painted but everything else has this black dots.
> 
> 
> If u dont wanna RMA and wait for new one, you can unscrew the housing and see why is it lose like that, maybe u can fix it, try it out, its few screws to remove. ( idk if that void ur warranty so do what YOU think its best! )
> 
> 
> I have 360mm 60mm thick rad from ek, and when i cramp my d5 dual revo pump to 65% and drop it back to 25% speed, rad starts cracking xDD probably cause of pressure pump puts to inside parts ( yo anyone have this sort of behavior too??? ).


It's normal. All my black EK fittings are like that. They only paint the outside and what you see on the inside is overspray.


----------



## Ceadderman

Vlada011 said:


> I saw exactly same problem on splitter on ROG Forum, one guy asked me. Than I start to google and saw 2-3 people complain on same problem.
> My X- Spliter is not like that it's perfectly shine inside.
> Maybe you don't see best on picture but nothing is inside...
> This is my X Spliter, as you see inside is normal...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I will do that definitely with radiator, in Monday I go to use Allen Key 9mm, I need him to remove housing.
> Definitely I'm curious why core wobble inside, it's not logic. I must see how much is RMA from Serbia to Slovenia, I think sending is cheaper than in rest of Europe.
> Now worry me and other thing... if housing is so gentle and they replace me radiator I need very carefull and very gently to shake him to clean residues inside before use.
> Because looks like nothing keep together core and housing, only thin mask, if mask is just little not connected perfectly core will move. Or at least that's my impression.
> 
> 
> Alphacool Eiszapfen fittings are not as Alphacool HF...
> It's different finish, Alphacool say more durable, they shine better and look more quality, but that' is not warranty for anything.


The core "wobble" that you feel is indeed normal. The core is only supported by the two 9mm access points in the radiator. Nothing supports it at the other end(so far as I know), which means it's floating in the housing which makes it feel flimsy.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Vlada011

You are sure. You mean core and housing are together and hold together on fill ports?
Weird EK Support sad that's not normal and on reviews didn't heared any noise.

I had radiators only with AIO, and they were different, and than when I met with Coostream that was very bad impression.
I thought they are compact and core not swimm inside....Here I have impression of loose/wobble product.


----------



## poisson21

There's no anchor point on the core other that the 2 fittings so the housing is only held by that.(sorry for my poor english)


----------



## Vlada011

poisson21 said:


> There's no anchor point on the core other that the 2 fittings so the housing is only held by that.(sorry for my poor english)


You opened him or what? 
Because no pictures of Coolstream PE version disassambled..


----------



## poisson21

Here a picture of one disassembled within a review https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/10/ek-pe-360-radiator-review/2/
And here at the bottom of the page they explain the purpose of the extender on the CE model that is similar to the PE https://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/02/21/ek-coolstream-ce-280mm-radiator-review/2/


----------



## Zfast4y0u

how do u guys clean the fins of the radiator? when dust build up? is it a good idea to wash it out once a year?


----------



## Vlada011

Zfast4y0u said:


> how do u guys clean the fins of the radiator? when dust build up? is it a good idea to wash it out once a year?


I always cleaned fins with gently brush and than with Data Vac.
I have 6 years old CORSAIR H100 AIO and he is cleaned at least 10 times and reinstalled and people 
can't believe how fins are still undameged and radiator not scratched.
No single bend fins or similar. I didn't tried to wash them because I didn't know how they will react on rust.
But I'm very gently with hardware and cleaning PC usually last whole day.

If you want easy to clean and best for radiator is new Data Vac ESD.
Have certificate for antistatic electricity and could be used with computers.
Previous version didn't was ESD. 


https://www.metrovacworld.com/product/DataVac_ESD_Safe_Electric_Duster/overview


----------



## Vlada011

Guys, i believe you saw but if someone didn't maybe want to wait for new CPU blocks... 
because EK Prepare one amazing looking CPU block name Velocity.
Now only to add new series of fittings for soft tubes...

I hope this Full Nickel will be avaialble and with Intel and AMD Mounting Mechanism...
I like him very much, completely left...


















Only CPU blocks should be more affordable as now Supremacy EVO arround 60 euro.
If performance are as Supremacy EVO or better-PERFECT.

Yes, I'm in love in full silver version with black mounting mechanism.
I saw cheap Supremacy EVO in Serbia and I thought to buy for next platform, but now I'm glad I didn't.... 
Because Monoblock is more for Xtreme platform as X99/ X299... Z390 and similar one Velocity is enough.


----------



## Zammin

I asked EK about the release date for those velocity blocks just recently. They said they will be available to the public early next month. Interested to see how they differ from the Supremacy blocks that have been around for so long.


----------



## tistou77

Zammin said:


> I asked EK about the release date for those velocity blocks just recently. They said they will be available to the public early next month. Interested to see how they differ from the Supremacy blocks that have been around for so long.


For october ?

Thanks


----------



## Zammin

tistou77 said:


> For october ?
> 
> Thanks


Yep early october.


----------



## Ceadderman

Vlada011 said:


> Guys, i believe you saw but if someone didn't maybe want to wait for new CPU blocks...
> because EK Prepare one amazing looking CPU block name Velocity.
> Now only to add new series of fittings for soft tubes...
> 
> I hope this Full Nickel will be avaialble and with Intel and AMD Mounting Mechanism...
> I like him very much, completely left...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only CPU blocks should be more affordable as now Supremacy EVO arround 60 euro.
> If performance are as Supremacy EVO or better-PERFECT.
> 
> Yes, I'm in love in full silver version with black mounting mechanism.
> I saw cheap Supremacy EVO in Serbia and I thought to buy for next platform, but now I'm glad I didn't....
> Because Monoblock is more for Xtreme platform as X99/ X299... Z390 and similar one Velocity is enough.


Actually a Monoblock serves a dual purpose. Cooling caps and mosfets is pretty important. If you get a CPU only block you'll need a fan blowing over the Caps and Mosfets if you overclock at all and even if you don't in most case scenarios. 

Monoblock aren't made for all boards however. But if you have a board that has one available for it I highly recommend getting one. My CIVF has a dedicated MB block and it certainly needed it to keep the NB chip from maxing out @60-65c and shutting down. I replaced the stock heatsink with the block and since then I don't need a fan blowing over the socket area on the board. 

Too bad we don't have Monoblocks available for pre-2016 boards. Can't do it for my board since the SB is slightly below the first PCIe slot. But Monoblocks are worth it if you're doing anything that generates a lot of board heat or are in a locale or space that has a high-ish ambient temperature during your average operating time. 

Don't dismiss Monoblocks entirely offhand. Especially if you're watercooling your GPU and have taken out that fan as well. Like I have. I also have a RAM block much later just to keep things tidy and cool. :thumb:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Vlada011

Ceadderman said:


> Actually a Monoblock serves a dual purpose. Cooling caps and mosfets is pretty important. If you get a CPU only block you'll need a fan blowing over the Caps and Mosfets if you overclock at all and even if you don't in most case scenarios.
> 
> Monoblock aren't made for all boards however. But if you have a board that has one available for it I highly recommend getting one. My CIVF has a dedicated MB block and it certainly needed it to keep the NB chip from maxing out @60-65c and shutting down. I replaced the stock heatsink with the block and since then I don't need a fan blowing over the socket area on the board.
> 
> Too bad we don't have Monoblocks available for pre-2016 boards. Can't do it for my board since the SB is slightly below the first PCIe slot. But Monoblocks are worth it if you're doing anything that generates a lot of board heat or are in a locale or space that has a high-ish ambient temperature during your average operating time.
> 
> Don't dismiss Monoblocks entirely offhand. Especially if you're watercooling your GPU and have taken out that fan as well. Like I have. I also have a RAM block much later just to keep things tidy and cool. :thumb:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


I will install EK RGB Monoblock now on my X99 Rampage V Edition 10.
But I will not miss chance if Velocity show up on Serbian marketplace not used, brand new.

I only wait washers and screws guy who used before me lost, they are on way.
I agree that Monoblock is extremely important with X79/X99/X299, Threadripper and Threadripper 2. 
But I think Z390 could survive high OC even without Monoblock. It's better, but for some people 180 euro+150 euro for GPU blocks are significant investment.
In some situations they could find for 200$ both CPU and GPU block with Monoblock is over 300$. 

Supremacy EVO Acetal+Nickel +Nickel Mounting Plate Nickel is still nicest CPU block from my perspective.
Now only CPU Block, Precise Mount Nickel influence on better look.


----------



## broodro0ster

Ceadderman said:


> Actually a Monoblock serves a dual purpose. Cooling caps and mosfets is pretty important. If you get a CPU only block you'll need a fan blowing over the Caps and Mosfets if you overclock at all and even if you don't in most case scenarios.
> 
> Monoblock aren't made for all boards however. But if you have a board that has one available for it I highly recommend getting one. My CIVF has a dedicated MB block and it certainly needed it to keep the NB chip from maxing out @60-65c and shutting down. I replaced the stock heatsink with the block and since then I don't need a fan blowing over the socket area on the board.
> 
> Too bad we don't have Monoblocks available for pre-2016 boards. Can't do it for my board since the SB is slightly below the first PCIe slot. But Monoblocks are worth it if you're doing anything that generates a lot of board heat or are in a locale or space that has a high-ish ambient temperature during your average operating time.
> 
> Don't dismiss Monoblocks entirely offhand. Especially if you're watercooling your GPU and have taken out that fan as well. Like I have. I also have a RAM block much later just to keep things tidy and cool. :thumb:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


On my Hero X, the mosfets don't go over 55°C when gaming and 70°C under heavy AVX prime that pulls 200w from the CPU. So a full cover block is not needed. And you can run into problem when you delid the CPU because the contact will be worse.


----------



## Vlada011

I only know ... after I replace X99 platform I will use new EK Velocity I think name will be Full Nickel because its silver, with RGB EK Logo in corner.
I must order one Gelid 4 Way RGB Splitter soon, when I connect Monoblock to RGB connector I will not have more place for anything RGB.


----------



## tistou77

Zammin said:


> Yep early october.


Thanks

Do you know if the base of Velocity will be flat or slightly convex ?


----------



## Zammin

tistou77 said:


> Thanks
> 
> Do you know if the base of Velocity will be flat or slightly convex ?


No idea man. I only asked when they were coming out. EK might not disclose details of design prior to release.


----------



## tistou77

Zammin said:


> No idea man. I only asked when they were coming out. EK might not disclose details of design prior to release.


Ok thanks 

I wanted to test the Supremacy EVO instead of my Koolance to have a flat base for the Direct Die, I'll wait for Velocity and see that


----------



## Vlada011

Maybe they will offer different type of base as upgrade depend what you use ... naked die, Intel mainstream, Intel Xtreme, AMD Ryzen or Threadripper.
I have EK Monoblock that mean I GPU block same, and later for next platform I doubt I will have enough for Monoblock but same Nickel CPU block.


----------



## Novak Djokovic

*New build within 5-6 months... considering components...*

At this point, I'm strongly leaning to using the EK-MLC Phoenix cpu cooling kit. It will be for an Z390 Intel Asus ROG motherboard with prob the Intel 8086k or the 9900K. It's hard to even start choosing, as not much is out yet to be tested. There will be moderate to strong OC'ing done.

What's been the general reaction to the EK-MLC-Phoenix?

In my current rig I have the AIO Corsair H100i v.1 (8/8/2016).


----------



## Zfast4y0u

broodro0ster said:


> On my Hero X, the mosfets don't go over 55°C when gaming and 70°C under heavy AVX prime that pulls 200w from the CPU. So a full cover block is not needed. And you can run into problem when you delid the CPU because the contact will be worse.


im eager to know how did u measure those temps? i have same mobo as you.


----------



## broodro0ster

Zfast4y0u said:


> im eager to know how did u measure those temps? i have same mobo as you.




Hwinfo64, but make sure that read out of the ASUS EC chip is enabled. You will get a warning if you enable it, but it’s ok do to so.


----------



## Vlada011

Novak Djokovic said:


> At this point, I'm strongly leaning to using the EK-MLC Phoenix cpu cooling kit. It will be for an Z390 Intel Asus ROG motherboard with prob the Intel 8086k or the 9900K. It's hard to even start choosing, as not much is out yet to be tested. There will be moderate to strong OC'ing done.
> 
> What's been the general reaction to the EK-MLC-Phoenix?
> 
> In my current rig I have the AIO Corsair H100i v.1 (8/8/2016).


How much cost Phoenix for CPU? I configure 280mm radiator for Intel CPU 215 euro.
But somehow is stupid to build watercooling only for CPU... at least radiator should be big enough to cool one GPU even if you don't use immediately.
I had 2 better propisitions...
1. Check EKWB AIO Systems from CES2018... they will have new Velocity CPU blocks and compression fittings and DDC pump.
2. EKWB RGB kit 360 cost 369 euro. That's full custom loop for CPU and you later add GPU block or separate parts for 300 euro.
360 RGB kit is 1st Class part. You only could add Ball Valve, Splitters, etc later...

I would like to EKWB Launch RGB Kit for EK XRES D5 Revo Glass.
Somehow to build new Top (same 3 ports) with RGB from inner side.


----------



## Vlada011

I have D5 PWM pump on XRES Glass reservoir... I plan to connect with motherboard control with AI Suite.
But I saw something and have idea but I'm not sure is it that possible...
Controling D5 PWM with Noctua NA-FC1 PWM Fan Controller???

Is that possible? 

https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification


----------



## Zammin

Vlada011 said:


> I have D5 PWM pump on XRES Glass reservoir... I plan to connect with motherboard control with AI Suite.
> But I saw something and have idea but I'm not sure is it that possible...
> Controling D5 PWM with Noctua NA-FC1 PWM Fan Controller???
> 
> Is that possible?
> 
> https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4Gc9Lp6BZQ


The D5 PWM pumps can be controlled by any PWM fan controller. I run mine off my Corsair Commander Pro. I use iCUE to control all of my fans and pump based on water temperature with different settings for desktop, games and benchmarks. I have used AI suite previously and you can use it to control the pump and fans as well, but I didn't like it that much. I have an ASUS motherboard as well but I'm not a fan of their software, I feel like it's not very polished at all. iCUE used to be pretty rough as well but it's come a long way in the last few months or so.


----------



## Vlada011

I thought to use that controller for 3 Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM fans. But I think I will use for pump and for fans I will use ASUS Fan Extension Card.


----------



## Zammin

For those interested in the Velocity CPU blocks, EK have all the details on their website now including pre-order. Although I'm not sure if there is much point pre-ordering when they're going to be available on the 1st of October whether you pre-order or not.

Article: https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-is-releasing-their-new-generation-of-velocity-cpu-water-blocks/

Shop: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/water-blocks/cpu-blocks/velocity


----------



## Vlada011

EK just prove they are big company.
I bought Monoblock from guy who didn't pay attention and lost some of screws and washers forgot on board, they were lost.
I was not angry on him but something like that never-ever happen to me. I know always where is last screw of all my parts.

But EK decide to help me and send me package of all screws and washers for RVE10 Monoblock, even thermal pads and thermal paste.
Package cost arround 10-13 euro but they just saved be 30 euro on shipping and etc...
I will not forgot on this.
Thank you guys, you are best.

This is very hard choice between these 3 models...

EK Velocity Full Nickel RGB









EK Velocity Acetal + Nickel RGB









EK Velocity Nickel Plexy RGB


----------



## Zammin

I really like the look of the acetal (RGB) one this time around, the light diffuser around the mid section looks really good especially with red lighting.












I'm probably going to end up buying the plexi RGB one though mainly because I like being able to see inside my blocks. It will be the same if I buy an RTX GPU, will probably get a plexi block.


----------



## bigboy678

a little shocked there is no threadripper compatible blocks for the launch. Also are there any fellow forum members that have/are getting this block for review ?


----------



## Vlada011

I'm in love in Full Nickel RGB Velocity and Acetal + Nickel RGB only little less.
When I choose some components I look to fit in my image in head and hardware I plan to use later....
Now parts are Silver/Black but in future will have tendency to go completely in silver direction.
Full Nickel fit with Full Nickel Backplate.

These are parts with style, not RGB blocks available on Aliexpress,... 

But nothing without some nice case as mine new Lian Li PC-O11 WXC.
Now only some Chrome high quality Compression Fittings, shiner than Bitspower, without Logo.


----------



## skingun

To me Velocity is ugly.


----------



## skingun

To me Velocity is ugly.


----------



## Ceadderman

skingun said:


> To me Velocity is ugly.


To each his own.

But I think it's time to retire the Supreme HF Classy block and go with Velocity since my 1100T CIVF system has an RGB x3 250 Reservoir. Now it won't be the only RGB in my system. Yay. :wheee:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## skingun

The old CSQ stuff was nice.


----------



## Ceadderman

skingun said:


> The old CSQ stuff was nice.


My Classy block is pre Crop Circles. It is the Supreme High Flow block. It's a great block still to this day but it's got an oval top and is lit using 3/5mm LED. Which won't be bright enough since it takes two and the Reservoir will catch the eye before the block will. So yeah. :mellowsmi

Likely will go Acetyl top and Copper base to match my other blocks. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Vlada011

skingun said:


> The old CSQ stuff was nice.



I didn't like them at all.
To be honest In on moment I thought to buy parts and I was rather to choose from EBay their old series before that.
Supreme HF was nicer than CSQ...
I was so happy when they launch Supremacy EVO.

Now Velocity I like even more.
I saw EK Supremacy EVO X99 brand new on our marketplace for 50 euro.
I thought to buy and Mounting mechanism for later platform after X99 I will not have money for Mono.
And than Velocity series showed up... 

I think it's time, I should build my loop, I think I covered everything, read everything...
first to try pump/res connected with radiator only to check flow, and how radiator behave... 
I will diassamle him and install one small pad to compensate bigger housing if possible... same as on pictures on net.
Little bad because legs for case arrive in October and I will need to hold up case to install them, but I can't wait any more.


----------



## Vlada011

skingun said:


> To me Velocity is ugly.


It's not try... It's perfect.
They are so beautifull that from 3 models and non RGB is very hard to choose.

They are constructed and designed in classic look and I have feeling no matter on CPU Block you choose for few months you will wish to try Velocity.
At least that's my impression. 
On first ball if I need to choose Full Nickel with small RGB Logo, but non RGB would not be problem at all, Acetal+Nickel.

I hope soon new Chrome fittings without straps, to shine so much to install them with sunglasses and black version with nice durable paint.
Fittings could be completely flat, if you have place for coin to tight them inside or Allen key option to tight them... 
outer ring you can tight with peace of cloth enough to save fingers.


----------



## Garrett1974NL

I'm very curious how the Velocity block performs, both in temperatures AND flowrates


----------



## Vlada011

I only know that Silver/Black combination continue to dominate.
EK Velocity Full Nickel there is good chance to be installed on this motherboard...

I can't believe, she is gorgeous. 

11th.... Maximus with EKWB VRM cooling.
I must have this, both.










I'm really very curious... Why EKWB not launch some connectors similar as Triple Rotary who will connect Velocity with VRM on Maximux XI?
Anyway and VRM cooling and Velocity made EKWB. With 10-12 euro peace. 2 of them and you don't need tubes. Some elegant connectors.
Three versions, Black, Silver and Acrylic-Plexi, pardon with Glass tube in middle and fitting on both sides (one peace).


----------



## KuroiJay

My ek waterblocks


----------



## Vlada011

Your RIG is amazing. 

Now I looked EK CES2018.
They prepare some really cool fans...
Only they sleeved them, if I saw good, they shouldn't done that.
They should build same as previous EK Vardar RGB. Ribbon 4pin + RGB cable.

Threadripper blocks are... no word.
You almost wish to switch to Threadripper because of them.
Crazy show room on CES2018, maybe most interesting new stuff I saw.


----------



## emsj86

the new blocks look like the bylaski ram and cpu blocks. Surprised no one is making a stink


----------



## Zammin

skingun said:


> To me Velocity is ugly.





Vlada011 said:


> It's not try... It's perfect.
> They are so beautifull that from 3 models and non RGB is very hard to choose.


I think they look good as well, I dunno about perfect but looks are subjective and it's okay for people to have different opinions.


----------



## Vlada011

I like EK's classic look... Except EK I like Koolance and Watercool stuff.
But all brands have good things.
Alphacool have Eisdecke with DDC/D5 Top, Swiftech have small Maelstrom D5 X50, HW Labs have cool Nemesis GTR Raditors, Koolance have nice fittings and CPU-400 and reference GPU blocks, ....
But this classic CPU blocks without details are perfection for me. 

Owners of Threadripper will enjoy.
Their model is specialy designed and I think they will recognize most Velocity as improvement.
I would replace Instantly Threadripper Edition for Velocity Thridripper. 










This version is nicest, not only block, discreter RGB Logo shine nice in dark... much better than a lot of RGB.
Hardware look more stylish and more expensive without too many RGB.
I'm glad EK decide to stay with 12V 4pin RGB, because manufacturers made little mess with Addressable RGB.
Only good thing is because new motherboards support both 5V and 12V...
Example ASUS didn't offer RGB LED Strip in 12V, only Addressable, bad.

I thought their board, why not their RGB LED Strip. But my board is only 12V 4pin non Addressable.


----------



## Kronos8

If any EK representative is still reading this thread, I would like to know if VGA-Supremacy and/or Thermosphere are compatible with 2080 and 2080Ti. If not, regarding supremacy, what will it take to be compatible? A new base plate perhaps? Thanks in advance for any answer...


----------



## Recipe7

Vlada011 said:


> I only know that Silver/Black combination continue to dominate.
> EK Velocity Full Nickel there is good chance to be installed on this motherboard...
> 
> I can't believe, she is gorgeous.


How good a chance are we talking about? I have a white plexi EK block on my x99 and planning on a Maximus XI build with a 9900k. I would love to move over to nickle without having to pay a premium, but if it means the Maximus XI will be another 80-100 dollars for the cpu block, I would rather utilize the white block I currently have on my x99


----------



## Vlada011

Full Nickel block cost 85 euro about 100$.
Problem is price of Maximus XI Formula. I don't have money to pay price as Maximus X Formula, 500$.
Maximus XI will cost similar or maybe less little... EK Velocity on her Is only picture I made to see how Full Nickel Velocity look on Maximux XI. 
They not arrive together. You can use you block, different mounting mechanism and Maximus XI.

ASUS increase price of their premium motherboards because he can, they are best and if competition cost 400$ they will off course ask 500$.
But that kill some of customers. I always bought high end graphic cards, that mean power consumption 250W.
This is first time when I need new GPU and I can't pay that. Last high end GPU I paid was 760 euro, it was jump from 600 to 700-750$ and that was max price I was ready to pay... similar is with motherboards... I would like, I have nothing against to pay so much. But I don't have.

There is a very good chance that I will buy only full nickel Velocity and wait next generation and keep X99 RVE10 with Monoblock and i7-5820K until new socket. CPU block is not significant investment for me, I could save that for 20-30 days. But price of high end mobo and GPU become problems, they cost more and more and increase time I use some platform.

Than.. difference between Maximus Formula and boards without EK VRM Block is 100$+CPU block 100$... that's 200$.
Price is same as you pay Maximus Code and EK Monoblock. Only CPU block you have for few years, few boards, you can use on mATX, Mini ITX...everything.


----------



## Zammin

Recipe7 said:


> How good a chance are we talking about? I have a white plexi EK block on my x99 and planning on a Maximus XI build with a 9900k. I would love to move over to nickle without having to pay a premium, but if it means the Maximus XI will be another 80-100 dollars for the cpu block, I would rather utilize the white block I currently have on my x99


The motherboard doesn't come with the CPU water block if that's what you were thinking. That image is a photoshop of what it would look like.


----------



## Recipe7

Vlada011 said:


> Full Nickel block cost 85 euro about 100$.
> Problem is price of Maximus XI Formula. I don't have money to pay price as Maximus X Formula, 500$.
> Maximus XI will cost similar or maybe less little... EK Velocity on her Is only picture I made to see how Full Nickel Velocity look on Maximux XI.
> They not arrive together. You can use you block, different mounting mechanism and Maximus XI.
> 
> ASUS increase price of their premium motherboards because he can, they are best and if competition cost 400$ they will off course ask 500$.
> But that kill some of customers. I always bought high end graphic cards, that mean power consumption 250W.
> This is first time when I need new GPU and I can't pay that. Last high end GPU I paid was 760 euro, it was jump from 600 to 700-750$ and that was max price I was ready to pay... similar is with motherboards... I would like, I have nothing against to pay so much. But I don't have.
> 
> There is a very good chance that I will buy only full nickel Velocity and wait next generation and keep X99 RVE10 with Monoblock and i7-5820K until new socket. CPU block is not significant investment for me, I could save that for 20-30 days. But price of high end mobo and GPU become problems, they cost more and more and increase time I use some platform.
> 
> Than.. difference between Maximus Formula and boards without EK VRM Block is 100$+CPU block 100$... that's 200$.
> Price is same as you pay Maximus Code and EK Monoblock. Only CPU block you have for few years, few boards, you can use on mATX, Mini ITX...everything.


Seems you are on a x99 and struggling with the notion of wanting to upgrade to a 9th gen cpu, hehe. I just want to do it because 5.0ghz =).



Zammin said:


> The motherboard doesn't come with the CPU water block if that's what you were thinking. That image is a photoshop of what it would look like.


Ha, yes I know its a chop but my understanding was that it may come with a nickle block, similar to the CrossChill enhancement.


----------



## Ceadderman

ASUS ROG went up in the States due to the trade war raging on. But also since that board is Intel's latest offering. Not because it will/won't come with a CPU block. It won't. They never do.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Zammin

Recipe7 said:


> Ha, yes I know its a chop but my understanding was that it may come with a nickle block, similar to the CrossChill enhancement.


It'll have the EK VRM coolers, but I haven't seen anything mentioning it coming with a CPU water block. If you have seen that somewhere I'd be interested to have a look if you can link me.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Recipe7 said:


> Seems you are on a x99 and struggling with the notion of wanting to upgrade to a 9th gen cpu, hehe. I just want to do it because 5.0ghz =).
> 
> 
> 
> Ha, yes I know its a chop but my understanding was that it may come with a nickle block, similar to the CrossChill enhancement.


I know I'm itching to possibly move to the 9th Gen, especially since it will be easier to move to SFF and still maintain 8c/16t (other than Ryzen which I'll be dropping in my son's rig). Can't wait to see the performance in comparison to my current 6900k


----------



## Recipe7

Ceadderman said:


> ASUS ROG went up in the States due to the trade war raging on. But also since that board is Intel's latest offering. Not because it will/won't come with a CPU block. It won't. They never do.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:





Zammin said:


> It'll have the EK VRM coolers, but I haven't seen anything mentioning it coming with a CPU water block. If you have seen that somewhere I'd be interested to have a look if you can link me.


I believe I misinterpreted Vlada011's mention of the Velocity block being installed on the Maximus XI Formula. I thought it was going to be preinstalled, but he was just saying it will be capable of installation on the motherboard. 



DarthBaggins said:


> I know I'm itching to possibly move to the 9th Gen, especially since it will be easier to move to SFF and still maintain 8c/16t (other than Ryzen which I'll be dropping in my son's rig). Can't wait to see the performance in comparison to my current 6900k


My 5820k is doing it's job, but sometimes i forget to load my gaming profile in the bios and am stuck playing a game at 3.6ghz because i am lazy AF to restart the computer again. Running at 5.0/4.7ghz on all cores right off the bat is really appealing to me with the 9900k. 

I was saving up for a 2080ti but refuse to pay 1400 for the gpu and block, so my 9th gen upgrade won't hit my wallet as hard as I anticipated.


----------



## Vlada011

I have i7-5820K as well, I hope to keep him little more because I need GPU and Waterblock, M.2 and Speakers. 
Yes, i9-9900K is good, fast, soldered, excellent in single threaded applications, and support UHD BluRay 4K.

Beautifull EK XRES Glass 100 with EK D5 G2 PWM and UNI Pump Bracket ready for testing... and sleeving later with MDPC-X.
Maybe I decide to install them in this position on bottom radiator... Depend of places in case.



















Today was sad day to me, EKWB Orange braclet braked when I tried to put her on hand.
Because small holes on braclet was weaker spots. Next time when I order some parts I will ask for one. 

I would really like to EKWB launch RGB Top for XRES D5 Revo Glass version.


----------



## Vlada011

Report.
Pump work, for now I didn't hear some nasty noises except pump is loud or 70-100%.
Pump worked on full speed 4xxx RPM little and than I disabled until figure out how to drop fan speed with ASUS Fan Expert.
God help me If I know what their colorfull points present there. 

I must order Noctua controller to tube pump speed.
I set in BIOS PWM Mode. Problem is because when I set pump speed in AI Suite on 30% and restart computer she start to work on full speed before back in Windows. 
That probably mean I need to set fan speed in BIOS.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Vlada011 said:


> Report.
> Pump work, for now I didn't hear some nasty noises except pump is loud or 70-100%.
> Pump worked on full speed 4xxx RPM little and than I disabled until figure out how to drop fan speed with ASUS Fan Expert.
> God help me If I know what their colorfull points present there.
> 
> I must order Noctua controller to tube pump speed.
> I set in BIOS PWM Mode. Problem is because when I set pump speed in AI Suite on 30% and restart computer she start to work on full speed before back in Windows.
> That probably mean I need to set fan speed in BIOS.


your mobo is from asus? you can tweak its speeds from bios if you have it connected on fan header already. i personally use speed fan for pump/fan controlling from windows. in bios its set to 20% till like some high temps i never hit, like 80c cpu (just in case), works flawlessly.


i have this pump from ek, just d5 revo dual pump version, till 40% speed you cant hear em, above that a bit, but even at 100% it dosent annoy me personally nor i ever run it above 65% cause no gains in temps.. and diff between 40% vs 65% for me is 2c. thing moves 1,500 L/h powerful pump.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Hello

My first custom loop and for sure all from EK!


----------



## Vlada011

Is it smart to switch molex from 12V to 5V-rewire and reduce voltage to D5 PWM Pump? 
4pin Connector with 2 wires only could monitor than pump RPM.


----------



## Zammin

Mr-Dark said:


> Hello
> 
> My first custom loop and for sure all from EK!


Incredible first custom loop! Well done.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Zammin said:


> Incredible first custom loop! Well done.


Thanks, 

EK is amazing.. <3


----------



## Ceadderman

Not exactly my first loop but a refresh of it. Not pictured is my GPU block since I am waiting on new TIM strips since the EK strips dried out even though I had them closed tightly in a ziploc on the block. 



I removed the HDD and the 5.25 cage from my 932 Advanced which gave me loads of room. Getting a pump mount for my EK D5 Vario and will mount that with x3 clean CSQ acrylic top below the Reservoir. Once I get everything worked out as far as parts goes I will be routing and bending my tubes. Everything but fittings and tubing is EKWB.

Supreme HF Classy 
Monarch x4
CIVF MB block
Acrylic D5 x3 top
EKWB D5 Vario 
Acetyl and Copper RX480 block 
360 SE 

Everything is copper except for the MB block which I could not get in Copper. I forget why that is but I think it was approximately the time when EK strangled the available options. 

Sorry my pick is upside down. :blushsmil 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Vlada011

My testing table...


----------



## d0mmie

Vlada011 said:


> Is it smart to switch molex from 12V to 5V-rewire and reduce voltage to D5 PWM Pump?
> 4pin Connector with 2 wires only could monitor than pump RPM.


Are you crazy? Don't do this! A D5 pumps is not voltage controlled, it needs 12V at all times. You either control it using PWM or using the speed knob on the bottom if it's a Vario version


----------



## Vlada011

d0mmie said:


> Are you crazy? Don't do this! A D5 pumps is not voltage controlled, it needs 12V at all times. You either control it using PWM or using the speed knob on the bottom if it's a Vario version


Off course, off course I controlled everything from BIOS, few tries, 4-5 restarts and I set as I want. 
F6 in ROG BIOS section fix everything.
Only I hope ASUS will build better mouse control in BIOS, cursor fly arround like crazy.

50% - 50% than go up flat. Fans as well, only Fans (CPU Fan header) section I changed to DC not PWM. 
Pump is connected to W_Pump, Dual Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM are on splitter on CPU Fan. 
Idle Pump - 2450-2500 RPM.


----------



## jvillaveces

Mr-Dark said:


> Hello
> 
> My first custom loop and for sure all from EK!


Good work, congratulations!


----------



## Ceadderman

Vlada011 said:


> Off course, off course I controlled everything from BIOS, few tries, 4-5 restarts and I set as I want.
> F6 in ROG BIOS section fix everything.
> Only I hope ASUS will build better mouse control in BIOS, cursor fly arround like crazy.
> 
> 50% - 50% than go up flat. Fans as well, only Fans (CPU Fan header) section I changed to DC not PWM.
> Pump is connected to W_Pump, Dual Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM are on splitter on CPU Fan.
> Idle Pump - 2450-2500 RPM.


Probably would have better control of your cursor in UEFI if you used a mouse that has adjustable DPI switching capability. If you already have one you should try it and see how that works.

~Ceadder: drink:


----------



## Vlada011

Yes I have adjustable DPI but settings are 2000-3000-4000 DPI because I decrease cursor speed on less than half and increase DPI little.
All of them are too fast for BIOS, I used keyboard.

I can't find where to change Bus Speed on Rampage V mothetboard, X99.
It's possible, I was changed to kill annoying 4499MHz to 4510MHz. Now I can't find.


----------



## Ceadderman

Vlada011 said:


> Yes I have adjustable DPI but settings are 2000-3000-4000 DPI because I decrease cursor speed on less than half and increase DPI little.
> All of them are too fast for BIOS, I used keyboard.
> 
> I can't find where to change Bus Speed on Rampage V mothetboard, X99.
> It's possible, I was changed to kill annoying 4499MHz to 4510MHz. Now I can't find.


It would be best to take these issues to the Motherboard thread. I am sure you'll have better luck dealing with it there since there are people with that specific board who have dealt with them. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Zammin

Today I ordered the Velocity RGB CPU block along with the Vector RGB block for my 2080Ti. Both Plexi versions. Everything is expected to arrive early to mid next month. 

It seems the Velocity blocks became available early in local retailers, EK told me they would be available in october but the local retailers have had them up for almost a week now at the same price.


----------



## Vlada011

Ceadderman said:


> It would be best to take these issues to the Motherboard thread. I am sure you'll have better luck dealing with it there since there are people with that specific board who have dealt with them.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


No more ISSUE. 
I resolve them. 


You are really lucky with Velocity and Vector.
If I find 2000 Euro I know what to buy i9-9900K/2080Ti, Velocity and Vector.
After Importing Vanatoo Transparent Zero Active speakers with Amplifier and DAC.


----------



## Zammin

Vlada011 said:


> You are really lucky with Velocity and Vector.
> If I find 2000 Euro I know what to buy i9-9900K/2080Ti, Velocity and Vector.
> After Importing Vanatoo Transparent Zero Active speakers with Amplifier and DAC.


What do you mean lucky? You can buy them now too if you want. If local retailers don't have them, you can order from EK and they will ship on Monday.


----------



## Vlada011

I mean you have money.
GTX2080Ti cost 4-5 monthly payment in my region. 
4 months you work and if you eat nothing, or pay nothing to government and live in dept you can buy Founders Edition.
You are very lucky because you are not in such economic environment. 

How far you push your D5 pumps.
I keep on 2450 RPM. I got advice to keep BIOS 50% to 50C and than to to increase speed.


What you say on my little testing "tower"... I can't wait someone to arrive to open this Ball Valve without his knowledge in front of him... 
Direct pressure from outlet... only to move mouse and keyboard... Ha...


----------



## Zammin

Vlada011 said:


> I mean you have money.
> GTX2080Ti cost 4-5 monthly payment in my region.
> 4 months you work and if you eat nothing, or pay nothing to government and live in dept you can buy Founders Edition.
> You are very lucky because you are not in such economic environment.


Perhaps my economical environment is better but my personal situation is not a lucky one. This is personal information but <Removed> I still had to save for a long time just to buy this stuff like anyone else. <Removed>
Sorry to go off topic. I hope you can get your stuff soon as well.


----------



## Vlada011

I spend all money on hardware as most, normal people think we are crazy.
And to me is this only hobby. Off course money mean nothing if you don't have health.
There is a very powerfull and rich persons who would give everything for health, or to be younger.
It's bad how life is short.


----------



## Maxxamillion

Have anyone tried the EK-Vardar EVO 120ER RGB as radiator fans? I was interested in RGB fans and can't find much info about them.


----------



## Vlada011

Maxxamillion said:


> Have anyone tried the EK-Vardar EVO 120ER RGB as radiator fans? I was interested in RGB fans and can't find much info about them.


I notice as well very limited information about them.
They can't be worse than normal Vardar with RGB features.
EK will launch soon and one more RGB model with little unusual frame. 
I saw video clip from CEO. 
Look very interesting.


----------



## Vlada011

What's recommended speed of fans for Coolstream PE radiators, 1200-1500 RPM???
I keep 1000 RPM, 50% PWM fan speed, but they work on around 1050 RPM as all fans.


----------



## Rollergold

Any Idea which Z390 boards EK will be making a Monoblock for?


----------



## Vlada011

ROG Extreme, Hero, Code from ASUS.


----------



## Zammin

Vlada011 said:


> ROG Extreme, Hero, Code from ASUS.


Never known them to do a monoblock for the code since it's essentially just a formula without the EK crosschill VRM cooler. If you wanted to watercool the VRMs on the code you'd just buy the formula yeah?

The Hero likely will get a monoblock since it's so popular and doesn't have watercooling options from the factory like the formula does.


----------



## Vlada011

Zammin said:


> Never known them to do a monoblock for the code since it's essentially just a formula without the EK crosschill VRM cooler. If you wanted to watercool the VRMs on the code you'd just buy the formula yeah?
> 
> The Hero likely will get a monoblock since it's so popular and doesn't have watercooling options from the factory like the formula does.



Hero will get Monoblock 100%, but I didn't look boards maybe is VRM section same and same block work on Code.
They made Monoblocks for Maximus Apex models in past. Maybe same block fit on Hero and Code.
If not I doubt they will build for Code.

I still didn't check properly Z390 line. 
Special because specifications of i9-9820X. Shame to ask 900$ for him.


----------



## Zammin

Vlada011 said:


> Hero will get Monoblock 100%, but I didn't look boards maybe is VRM section same and same block work on Code.
> They made Monoblocks for Maximus Apex models in past. Maybe same block fit on Hero and Code.
> If not I doubt they will build for Code.
> 
> I still didn't check properly Z390 line.
> Special because specifications of i9-9820X. Shame to ask 900$ for him.


Yeah the Hero 100%. It's the most popular and accessible ROG board. The Code is the same underlying board as the Formula and is different from the Hero, even on Z390 I believe from looking at the boards closely. The Code has massive heat spreaders on it though so the passive cooling is pretty good, if someone wants to cool the VRMs further it's best to get the Formula.

In saying that I do kinda wish there was a monoblock for the code purely because I reckon monoblocks look way nicer than the crosschill on the Formula haha.


----------



## Vlada011

I just saw Maximus XI Gene.
Badass mobo. Formula class only smaller.
I believe EK will offer Monoblock for here and my recommendations if someone like mATX boards to wait to become available.
Both EKWB Monoblock and Maximus XI Gene. First testing Gene one week default clock i9-9900K, 
than one week mid OC and than installation Monoblock.

Definitely combination of the year, for Intel 9th generation, i9-9900K + ASUS Gene 11th.
I didn't saw pictures without heatsinks because maybe EK Monoblock fit on all 3 models, Hero, Code, Gene.

VRM block on Formula is better cooling than Monoblock, but not so necessary as cooling on X299/X99/TR4 even Zen+ platform.
But I believe there is a significant number of young enthusiast who want to buy simplest watercooling loop.
That's Maximus Formula + ROG Poseidon + EK RGB 360 kit. That's whole watercooling system of CPU/VRM and GPU.
Only miss drain option and recommendation how to build that is easy to find on EK Blog.

It's not cheap, but give someone different image of system with watercooling, than waterblocks we used to look.


----------



## tistou77

Hello

The backplate for the RTX2080 is good ?
No heating problem seen what is "full" (the heat is evacuated anyway) ?

I ask seen that the Nvidia Turing "warm" more than Pascal

Thanks


----------



## tistou77

Hello

I mounted the ekwb RTX2080 RGB waterblock with the backplate and there are several problems

Since I mounted it, I have an Coil Whine, I looked at the assembly, there is no pad on the "reels" with the waterblock ekwb (screen 1) while the original cooling there is a pad and with the waterblock other brands there is a pad too (screen 2)
In addition, the pads to put on the backplate do not match with the components, there are no components where the pads must be installed, but the components are right next

I think it's not normal ?

Thanks


----------



## zipeldiablo

So for those interested, the backplate from the evga 2080ti xc is "compatible" with the waterblock from ek.
Just use the screws from the waterblock, be carefull when you screw them through the backplate as it will require a bit of extra strength


----------



## tistou77

zipeldiablo said:


> So for those interested, the backplate from the evga 2080ti xc is "compatible" with the waterblock from ek.
> Just use the screws from the waterblock, be carefull when you screw them through the backplate as it will require a bit of extra strength


The EVGA screws are M2, that of the block ekwb are M2.5, so yes must "force" a little 
By against the "head" of the screw "exceeds" the backplate ?


----------



## museumman

Corsair 250D

EKWB Supremacy EVO Acetal and Copper AM4.
EKWB R9 Nano GPU block and Backplate.
EKWB SPC-60MX pump with a 150 res.
EKWB SE240 radiator.
EKWB SE120 radiator.
EKWB 10/12 HDC Elox black fittings
EKWB Acrylic 10/12 tubing

Yay EK!


----------



## Zammin

tistou77 said:


> The EVGA screws are M2, that of the block ekwb are M2.5, so yes must "force" a little
> By against the "head" of the screw "exceeds" the backplate ?


That's interesting, when I called up and spoke to Jacob at EVGA he told me the backplate screws were M2.5?


----------



## Zammin

museumman said:


> Corsair 250D
> 
> EKWB Supremacy EVO Acetal and Copper AM4.
> EKWB R9 Nano GPU block and Backplate.
> EKWB SPC-60MX pump with a 150 res.
> EKWB SE240 radiator.
> EKWB SE120 radiator.
> EKWB 10/12 HDC Elox black fittings
> EKWB Acrylic 10/12 tubing
> 
> Yay EK!


Neat build, love the stealthy look.


----------



## tistou77

Zammin said:


> That's interesting, when I called up and spoke to Jacob at EVGA he told me the backplate screws were M2.5?


With 2080 XC, it's M2. I had the problem and I had to buy a backplate ekwb
Maybe with EVGA 2080ti XC, the screws are M2.5 but it will be amazing


----------



## jvillaveces

Does anyone know if there will ever be an official EK rep present in this forum?


----------



## Vlada011

I understand why people say EK QC is terrible.
At the end I will replace almost all parts I bought from EK.
I feel like they sent me parts from room where they keep hardware who didn't pass QC.

Coolant I replace with Mayhem X1 because EK Cryo Fuel Premix is yellowish and didn't asked RMA.
Tubes I replace with Mayhem Ultra Clear because they install fantastic, EK Dura Clear have few batches and some of them are not possible to install without hot water.
EK Coolstream PE radiator will be replaced with Nemesis GTX360 I call guy in UK to bring me because i don't want chamber to move inside housing because ******** design.
EK D5 G2 PWM pump is noisy and wait to find Swiftech MCP655 Speed Control to RMA.

They are not normal definitely and searching over net for problems I found 5 guys who gave up from loop because EK.
EK parts are beautiful, they look cool even better 3D Printing but in their politic and way of build have zero politic to parts last long.
My mistake is even bigger than if that happen someone to USA, because I was born and grow in region of ex YU and Slovenia is part of 
Yugoslavia and I was aware that their products are better than rest of Yugoslavia but can't be compared with Germans at all. 
And that's exactly experience of user with a lot of experience who build and EK and Watercool.de and Aqua Computer. 

Even if you look profile of Revo D5 parts, that's metal Nut with sharp thread in contact with soft POM.
How much that could last, after 2-3 reinstallation can't be same as you bought and completely different is when you have cap with 4-6 screws who hold pump on place and D5.
On one part of my XRES thread is completely visible on other side is normal. Pump sit best possible.

Normal company in such situation would deeply apologize asked pictures, video clips and replace parts urgently for 3 days.
Only fact that I bought everything from EK delay my build for month and more. I mean my loop work, temperatures are OK, CPU is overclocked, everything is on table, but I don't want to install everything in case before I fix every single detail and problem caused by bad decision and QC of EK.
They offered to replace me coolant and I told to them I don't want to EK pay shipping for such stupid thing, one coolant, bad batch no big deal 10 euro, and that only talk how I'm generous and ready to forgot small problems.


----------



## Vlada011

Mayhem Ultra Clear tubes, god... Beatufull, clear, soft, easy to bend, easy to install, paradise.
I don't know what some companies make, even try to tell me don't use X1 Coolant. Later will blame me and bio X1 coolant for Nickel corrosion famous and connected with EK from 2005 I think.
Not, I will use X1 because I don't care what will happen in Monoblock, anyway later will be used Heatkiller IV PRO Black Copper.
I believe corrosion will not be present at all. 

If you want watercooling parts last you 10-20 years and to be like new after cleaning like new than you need to avoid EK.
If you want to make RGB show room and United Colors of Benetton for short time than buy what you want. 

I first explain to them everything in detail, named video, named picture.
I wrote on video clip... Normal Noise During Testing, second video clip Noisy D5 Pump.
And they answer me and send me picture from video clip named Normal Noise During Testing and explain such noise is normal.
I say off course it's normal, I wrote it's normal that's video clip where everything was fine I sent you both to compare.
He say he is confused with fan, maybe is fan noise. And near pump sit two Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM on 800RPM 0.1dBA sound I believe.
No way to hear them to sit you on head. Total absence of noise from fans.

Now I EXACTLY know where is mistake, where is EKWB production mistake and why should be bought different part with different installation procedure. What is build on wrong way and less durable way. Perfectly know what to look and what to search and where I made mistake because choose that part.


----------



## Ceadderman

Don't you think that your issues should be kept in house with EK and not brought up here?

I get it, you're having problems. Just wish I could make sense of your last two posts at least well enough to be able to leave suggestions. I am thinking that the reason their QC is bad is because they cannot understand your problem(s). The nickel issue was 2010ish not 2005. It was right around the time they launched CSQ. 

I am sorry you're having issues. But honestly, you shouldn't take them out of your contact with EK. Especially to a site that is predominantly English speaking. I am not saying this to ridicule. Not in any way shape or form. Hopefully you get things sorted out.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## akromatic

can anyone give me measurements for the ek 2080ti block? i'd like to know if the black bit on the end is removable and what length and height/width the card is with block.

not sure if the founders would fit my lian li pc-q37 case or i still have to wait for a mini version


----------



## zipeldiablo

tistou77 said:


> The EVGA screws are M2, that of the block ekwb are M2.5, so yes must "force" a little
> By against the "head" of the screw "exceeds" the backplate ?


Yeah, i ended up having a blister on one of my fingers ahha
Nope the length is good.



Zammin said:


> That's interesting, when I called up and spoke to Jacob at EVGA he told me the backplate screws were M2.5?


He was full of ****, sorry mate 



tistou77 said:


> With 2080 XC, it's M2. I had the problem and I had to buy a backplate ekwb
> Maybe with EVGA 2080ti XC, the screws are M2.5 but it will be amazing


No they aren't, i have a 2080ti XC and i can confirm the screws are M2


Quick question guys.
Is the soft tubing sold on ek website compatible with barrow fittings?


----------



## tistou77

@zipeldiablo 

You mounted a EKWB waterblock ?
You have what temperature in idle and load (benchmark or game) ?


----------



## lostsupper

The black bits opposite the IO and the black nameplate in front of the inlet/outlet ports can be removed with a phillips screwdriver.


----------



## zipeldiablo

tistou77 said:


> @zipeldiablo
> 
> You mounted a EKWB waterblock ?
> You have what temperature in idle and load (benchmark or game) ?


Yup got the vector nickel plexy.

Gpu is sitting at 32degrees celcius in idle and 48 degrees in load (tested with AC origin running for a few hours, might go to 53 if i am playing shadow of the tomb raider as there is more load on the gpu).
Please keep in mind that i rebuilt my loop just ONE FRICKING DAY before ek updated the manual adding thermal pads to the coils so it is possible that i might be able to get even lower temps.


----------



## tistou77

zipeldiablo said:


> Yup got the vector nickel plexy.
> 
> Gpu is sitting at 32degrees celcius in idle and 48 degrees in load (tested with AC origin running for a few hours, might go to 53 if i am playing shadow of the tomb raider as there is more load on the gpu).
> Please keep in mind that i rebuilt my loop just ONE FRICKING DAY before ek updated the manual adding thermal pads to the coils so it is possible that i might be able to get even lower temps.


Ok thanks, it was to get an idea 
Turing heats up more than Pascal anyway


----------



## zipeldiablo

tistou77 said:


> Ok thanks, it was to get an idea
> Turing heats up more than Pascal anyway


I have two 480mm radiator so don't use my temps as a proper example


----------



## tistou77

zipeldiablo said:


> I have two 480mm radiator so don't use my temps as a proper example


it's good for cooling
I have a MORA3


----------



## zipeldiablo

tistou77 said:


> it's good for cooling
> I have a MORA3


Damn that's huge


----------



## Vlada011

Ceadderman said:


> Don't you think that your issues should be kept in house with EK and not brought up here?
> 
> I get it, you're having problems. Just wish I could make sense of your last two posts at least well enough to be able to leave suggestions. I am thinking that the reason their QC is bad is because they cannot understand your problem(s). The nickel issue was 2010ish not 2005. It was right around the time they launched CSQ.
> 
> I am sorry you're having issues. But honestly, you shouldn't take them out of your contact with EK. Especially to a site that is predominantly English speaking. I am not saying this to ridicule. Not in any way shape or form. Hopefully you get things sorted out.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


I contact them before few days, they understand very well problem.
I described them details. 
Half mistake is their, QC, etc... Half mistake is mine.
As someone who first time met with watercooling didn't understand what type of pump-res combo is more durable and didn't notice company who really represent German craftsmanship as someone expect from Germans. 
And that's very hard to beat if they done job properly and if you want to be closer to them requst much less profit per products, good machines for production and good ideology on first place.

Whole Balkan, I live there, I born there and I understand that mentality is to take from you money once even if they lost customers.
They will rather take 1000 euro now and never to see you in life, than for 5 years to take 2000 euro. 
Our region don't have in self politic to keep customers and serve them and profit little by little as Western Europeans special Americans.
All South Slavs mostly work on that way.
They understand me very well, they naturaly most of them know my native language as well.

Half Americans in my situation would ask refund full refund or instant cross shiping of bad parts.
I never even meantion or think about that. But's that's politic in USA more usuall. They not argue, they not blame anyone, simply work bad, I want my money back. I never thought in that direction because I need working parts not money.

I would shame someone to post me picture of my clear coolant green, describe tubes as most people experienced with different batch of Dura Clear - impossible to install, video with Coolstream chamber as move inside, video with D5 G2 PWM noise. 
I don't know, but I would react immediately and for sure offered cross shipping at least for pump-combo because other parts I fixed.
I mean fixed, I bought different and they are normal, radiator as well, EK is fixed and I will add one more because anyway need him.


----------



## Vlada011

I only want to say that watercooling is very interesting and very easy if you deal with normal parts.
And one company with bad QC will not change my decision, because this is much more interesting than every year add new CPU and GPU and replace AIO Systems as new model show up.

But definitely now I search for more durable options to last longer, not show room.
At least I have some loop and overclocked CPU as I always wanter, temperatures are OK and I could change one by one part.
Coolant and Tubes problems is fixed, +20 euro, + Nemesis GTX 360 these days should be bought I have option to keep only him and sell my 360mm that's +50 euro, if I keep both that's +100 euro but anyway need new radiator. Second D5 now I search for this model... that's +70 euro. Swiftech MCP655 with Speed Control, D5 Laing.










and one by one replace, than I will decide Watercool D5 Top + Heatkiller Tube 100 or Heatkiller Tube 100 D5, that's total around
220 euro more than I planned.


----------



## Kimir

jvillaveces said:


> Does anyone know if there will ever be an official EK rep present in this forum?


Afaik, there already is.
It's @akira749


----------



## Ceadderman

Vlada011 said:


> I only want to say that watercooling is very interesting and very easy if you deal with normal parts.
> And one company with bad QC will not change my decision, because this is much more interesting than every year add new CPU and GPU and replace AIO Systems as new model show up.
> 
> But definitely now I search for more durable options to last longer, not show room.
> At least I have some loop and overclocked CPU as I always wanter, temperatures are OK and I could change one by one part.
> Coolant and Tubes problems is fixed, +20 euro, + Nemesis GTX 360 these days should be bought I have option to keep only him and sell my 360mm that's +50 euro, if I keep both that's +100 euro but anyway need new radiator. Second D5 now I search for this model... that's +70 euro. Swiftech MCP655 with Speed Control, D5 Laing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one by one replace, than I will decide Watercool D5 Top + Heatkiller Tube 100 or Heatkiller Tube 100 D5, that's total around
> 220 euro more than I planned.


The EK D5 is a Laing D5 pump. EK does not have anything to do with its manufacture. Pretty much every D5 is of Laing manufacture. I am not certain of the Eheim pumps but those aren't D5 body pumps anyway. Laing also makes DDC body pumps as well. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Barefooter

Kimir said:


> Afaik, there already is.
> It's @akira749


Yes but I haven't seen him around here for a long time now.


----------



## DarthBaggins

He's still around, just rare to spot him. More than likely been busy dealing with the events going on (DreamHack etc)


----------



## Vlada011

Ceadderman said:


> The EK D5 is a Laing D5 pump. EK does not have anything to do with its manufacture. Pretty much every D5 is of Laing manufacture. I am not certain of the Eheim pumps but those aren't D5 body pumps anyway. Laing also makes DDC body pumps as well.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:



OK, I will buy EK D5 non PWM Lowara from Caseking.de if I don't decide different.
But I would like to someone explain me... Why shops who not sell watercooling stuff sell this pump from 200-300$
All version Bronze Series and Plastic SteelSeries, few different numbers but specific to my purpose need only motor from Laing D5-38/810N.

If they are all Laing, please find me this pump Laing D5-38/810N below 100$... D5 without PWM with Speed Control, this is picture...










Why always when I find Laing D5 without XSPC, Alphacool, Bitspower, EK, that cost around 200$....
Where is difference between PC brands and these...










This is specific D5-38/810N










Why is that 326$?


----------



## Vlada011

Biggest mistake in EK politic is when they changed these tops.
I would never again buy watercooling product with threads from POM or Acetal.
Special if Nuts is from metal. 

From other side they are produced on such way that on one side is always small gap and you are never sure is it sealed properly or not.
My high recommendation for future users who want durable parts is to search D5 and DDC combination with this type of mount.
In XRES you need to little push pump inside and to hold here whole the time and than to screw with Nut. Lot of people had problems to remove him if he leak or such things and problem to back him inside properly. Pay attention on that. Every normal person is capable to do that, but that's not durable and good option for installation.

And if you see Koolance, Swiftech, Aqua Computer, Watercool... still keep same principle for installation D5.
My sincerely recommendations is no matter on top, reservoir, D5, DDC choose these kind of installation because only material who could be damaged after long use is O-Ring and Screws, nothing else. When you replace them, part is like new after 10 years. Revo is not.


----------



## jvillaveces

Kimir said:


> Afaik, there already is.
> It's @akira749


He hasn’t been around for several months now. Look for his last post and you will see what I mean. Anyway, this forum was far more valuable when EK participated.


----------



## Zammin

jvillaveces said:


> He hasn’t been around for several months now. Look for his last post and you will see what I mean. Anyway, this forum was far more valuable when EK participated.


I agree, they have a rep on Facebook (Erik) who is very active there and helpful, it would be cool if he could check in here every so often. Usually if I have questions I just message him, he's way quicker to respond than support.


----------



## Vlada011

EK thanks on hoodie you sent me. 
That's very nice move and detail and Quality is not below Nike. Maybe you should change job. I joke of course.
But I would like more to pay attention on quality control and to think in future about your decision and how your idea reflect on durability not only look of parts.

You are not aware what mean for someone who save money for loop few months when need to buy radiator and pump again.
Plus Coolant and Tubes I replaced immediately. Bunch of people over internet feel as you sent them parts who didn't pass QC from first.
And special about people who gave up from such fantastic hobby and backed on bored and monotonous AIO systems because of you.
Compare yourself, google alone and compare experience of owners of Watercool example as maybe most recommended high quality enthusiasts watercooling parts.

From other side some people share some information and don't know to explain why D5 with Laing label still cost as 3 D5 pumps in computer stores.
If Swiftech say our new D5 have changed something inside compare to model from 2006 than only I could estimate how much details and things are changed during these years compare to Laing D5. And I could dress cloth like Elvis and dance like Elvis and they will call me after few years Elvis but I'm not him.

All sites who have old version of MCP655 Variable Control and Laing D5 ask 120$ and more for Swiftech pump and 200+ for Laing D5.
You can't find Swiftech old version for same price as other D5 pump. Even Newegg sell them for 130$ and I believe she will be silent as D5 could be silent, 
because 95% on that pump are positive experience. And any manufacturer of D5 now from similar brands can't match with that customer experience.

And this should be recommended to people as D5 choice.
Whole industry is crazy and pay 300$ for Laing instead to buy for 60$ from PPC, I don't believe. Something is "improved" "optimized" add in PC brands.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...&cm_re=swiftech_mcp655-_-35-108-082-_-Product


----------



## Zammin

Vlada011 said:


> SNIP


I don't think EK visit this thread anymore man, the last post from Akira was quite a while back. You should send your feedback to them directly if you want them to see it.


----------



## andrews2547

Vlada011 said:


> people who gave up from such fantastic hobby and backed on bored and monotonous AIO systems because of you.



I wouldn't go that far. Most people go with AIOs because of price, not because of what someone on the internet said.


If I went for a custom loop from EK (CoolStream SE 360 slim triple, 3x Vadar F3 120 1850rpm, XRES 14- Revo, Supremace Evo, 3M of tubing and 6x ACF fittings) just for my CPU, I'd have to spend £375 vs just buying an H150i for £145, well under half the cost.


----------



## Vlada011

Akira is cool guy, I know him from EVGA Forum. If I didn't mix with someone but I saw other EKWB guys here.

I understand if someone don't have money and buy AIO system.
I was on that place, I bought H70 2009 I think and H100 2012 and I use him up to 2012.
Immediately when I won some money on gambling because I always save only for hardware not cooling I bought watercooling parts for 350 euro.

But people change them like crazy, they every year or two upgrade them, from cooler to cooler, look improvement, compare 2-3C difference, etc.

Now I'm curious how many time happen that Newegg not sell exactly same products as they show on picture.
This model of D5 can't be found for les than 100-120$ and you can't find on 90% of places...
Same back side, exactly same as here. Five starts, 88% of customers give five stars. Swiftech not sell them any more... 
that's 2006 version I think, but I'm not sure.
They later change some capacitor inside or I don't know...


https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108082


This is second type, I would like first more...

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6...ed_Control_and_38_Conversion_Kit_317_GPH.html

DazMode sell them years maybe know difference between them.
It's fact that for this pump you can buy two Swiftech D5 PWM Rev 2 pumps.
107 people and 88% five stars is extremely high positive rate for D5 pump. 
No one from manufacturers have no even close rate with PWM versions.

I heared exactly how Laing D5 work on 3 speed and that's way to go 24/7.
Enough for two radiators CPU and GPU. I can't enable mine on over 50%, over 2500RPM immediately you notice pump noice from 2m.
I sent to EKWB noise and video.

Here is, first is 60% than grind stop when speed increase and than when I back to 60% again start that noise.
For such things, customers deserve to get new pump, replace and than sent old one as RMA. Not to wait 15 days without computer.
Now I would asked non PWM version, PWM is Gen 2, and Laing no Gen 2. That's like you give Mercedes to Serbs to improve him. 

http://www.mediafire.com/file/vw6cgl8814fmdob/EK_D5_G2_PWM_Noise.MOV/file


----------



## Vlada011

I think maybe that first picture from Newegg is first series produced in original factory, 2006 when they start to use them watercooling was not so popular, people used Iwaki, Eheim more. And no one had time to "improve" them to be used for PC market.


----------



## Vlada011

This is how pump work I posted before.
For EKWB this is normal. If you experience same you know what will be answer.


http://www.mediafire.com/file/vw6cgl...Noise.MOV/file

But answer from EK is Thanks to video and I should drop pump speed and she will be silent.
Because I told them on less 50% is more silent. But what if pump flow need 3300 RPM, speed 3 on non PWM version.
That's logic speed for radiator, Monoblock, GPU block. 
Because my pump is more silent on over 3600 RPM than below, 2500-3500RPM grind and produce vibrating noise, he later stop on higher speed and than start buzz noise who is more acceptable than loud grinding.


----------



## war4peace

Looks like EKWB has discontinued white fittings. Shame on them


----------



## Kimir

I haven't followed much of the hardware news lately, but today I received an email for EK black friday stuff.
What is the EK controller and the EL-Loop connect 51?


----------



## fixall

Kimir said:


> I haven't followed much of the hardware news lately, but today I received an email for EK black friday stuff.
> What is the EK controller and the EL-Loop connect 51?


Looks like it's a fan and RGB controller with temperature and flow rate monitoring. I just picked up a Quantum Kinetic FLT 120 and Coolstream XE 360 (and forgot the damn coolant dye) which put me over the threshold for a free EK-Loop Connect 51, so I should have some better feedback soon.


----------



## Kimir

Oh nice, the EK Signalkuppe comes back from its ashes!

edit: oh! there is a web-page about it, just seen a post about it on facebook.
ekwb.com/ek-connect/


----------



## Limitlesspace

Just in time for me cause I wanted to buy Corsair Commander. When will this thing be available to purchase? What about software? Is it reliable? A review would be nice.


----------



## bkrownd

Kimir said:


> Oh nice, the EK Signalkuppe comes back from its ashes!
> 
> edit: oh! there is a web-page about it, just seen a post about it on facebook.
> ekwb.com/ek-connect/



:glasses I don't need yet another RGB controller, but I'm curious about having a coolant monitoring system. Will this unit trigger your machine to a shutdown sequence if the flow meter dips below a certain flow rate or becomes erratic?


----------



## Kimir

bkrownd said:


> :glasses I don't need yet another RGB controller, but I'm curious about having a coolant monitoring system. Will this unit trigger your machine to a shutdown sequence if the flow meter dips below a certain flow rate or becomes erratic?


I'm with you on that, I don't need any RGB controller. Only need to control fans based on coolant temp (make a curve, set and forget kind of way), flow monitoring and the like. An Aquaero alternative pretty much. :h34r-smi


----------



## war4peace

Kimir said:


> An Aquaero alternative pretty much. :h34r-smi


Not sure about that. The EK Connect suffers from a lack of information, considering how complex it is aimed to be. I am curious to see some actual, exact specifications, such as count of controllable RGB LEDs, length of strip per RGB header, etc.


----------



## um2802

Another issue with second wb for 1070 strix 
First wb had same manifestation and go to garbage....
I think ek solve this situation with bad nickel cover from a long time ago, but it seems i was mistaken.
The wb was new and achieve from CK.
It was put in function around January 2019, and now, after few months it is look like you see .....
For coolant it was use DI water + mayhem X1 clear concentrate.
Before put all in function all ssystem was clean with Blitz from Mayhem and then clean all with distillate water.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
If you want ek support email them and or open an rma
I don't think they recommend using (blitz part 1 Only for radiators) or part 2 they say it's not compatible with their fluids.


----------



## Kimir

war4peace said:


> Not sure about that. The EK Connect suffers from a lack of information, considering how complex it is aimed to be. I am curious to see some actual, exact specifications, such as count of controllable RGB LEDs, length of strip per RGB header, etc.


The AQ6 doesn't have RGB control built in, it's an add-on if I recall, not interested in RGB stuff so I didn't look into it.
BTW the web page is now updated, you've got some info about the headers available.

One thing I like, the form factor. Pretty much the size of a smartphone, can be placed at the bottom of the case. I wonder if I can play with the software without the thing connected


----------



## um2802

I know that about Part 1.
Entire circuit (rad included ) was clean with Part 2 .


----------



## ThrashZone

um2802 said:


> I know that about Part 1.
> Entire circuit (rad included ) was clean with Part 2 .


Hi,
If you rma I wouldn't mention blitz


----------



## um2802

Thx for advice, but first wb from last year, who goes to garbage, never had contact with Blitz clean solution.
Only with ek clear coolant 1L bottle....
And had same manifestation, all begins from that screw in the middle of wb, i will search the photos.


----------



## ThrashZone

um2802 said:


> Thx for advice, but first wb from last year, who goes to garbage, never had contact with Blitz clean solution.
> Only with ek clear coolant 1L bottle....
> And had same manifestation, all begins from that screw in the middle of wb, i will search the photos.


Hi,
You said it ek nickel plating bad 
Think all copper next time.


----------



## war4peace

Kimir said:


> The AQ6 doesn't have RGB control built in, it's an add-on if I recall, not interested in RGB stuff so I didn't look into it.
> BTW the web page is now updated, you've got some info about the headers available.
> 
> One thing I like, the form factor. Pretty much the size of a smartphone, can be placed at the bottom of the case. I wonder if I can play with the software without the thing connected


The AQ6 indeed has no RGB, but the QUADRO does, and it's 40 EUR. The QUADRO has 4x fan headers with 25W each (EK Connect has 36W overall), 1x dRGB header up to 90 LEDS (EK Connect has 6 headers and unknown amount of LEDs supported), 4x temperature sensor inputs (EK Connect has 3), both have 1x flow sensor connector and EK Connect has 1x water level connector which the QUADRO does not. dRGB pinouts are not compatible, by the way. Aquacomputer uses a 4-pin connector (I assume one PIN is for the white LED), EK Connect uses a 3-pin connector. As for software, Aquasuite is very detailed (tons of screenshots, examples, etc) while EKWB's software is mysterious (one small screenshot in the EK Connect presentation page and bits and pieces elsewhere).


----------



## Kimir

war4peace said:


> The AQ6 indeed has no RGB, but the QUADRO does, and it's 40 EUR. The QUADRO has 4x fan headers with 25W each (EK Connect has 36W overall), 1x dRGB header up to 90 LEDS (EK Connect has 6 headers and unknown amount of LEDs supported), 4x temperature sensor inputs (EK Connect has 3), both have 1x flow sensor connector and EK Connect has 1x water level connector which the QUADRO does not. dRGB pinouts are not compatible, by the way. Aquacomputer uses a 4-pin connector (I assume one PIN is for the white LED), EK Connect uses a 3-pin connector. As for software, Aquasuite is very detailed (tons of screenshots, examples, etc) while EKWB's software is mysterious (one small screenshot in the EK Connect presentation page and bits and pieces elsewhere).


Oh, the quadro is interesting, could be what I need for a simple setup. I haven't followed up on this kind of stuff for awhile. :thumb:
Yeah the EK is a mystery at this point.


----------



## war4peace

I own the following from Aquacomputer:
Aquaero 5 LT
Aquaero 6 LT (2x)
QUADRO (1x)
Farbwerk (1x)
Farbwerk 360 (2x)

Looking forward to test the EK Connect, which has extremely big shoes to fill. I love its form factor, but that's one of the lowest priority features I am looking for.


----------



## hihotic

Here are some screenshots of EK software, and yes you can play around without having the EK Connect ( I own Aquaero 6 ).


----------



## RichKnecht

hihotic said:


> Here are some screenshots of EK software, and yes you can play around without having the EK Connect ( I own Aquaero 6 ).


That's a nice clean looking interface. Much nicer that Asus' AI Suite


----------



## skummm

A bit late to the party but as of 6 hours ago i'm fully up and running with a waterblocked Titan Xp Collectors Edition 

The original cooler was fairly nasty to strip... be prepared for some horribly tiny screws!

Shaved a tiny amount off the LED connectors just to ensure block clearance.

Could not source any Fujipoly pads in the UK so I went with Thermal Grizzly minus.

Upgraded the rad to a Black Ice Nemesis GTX 360 since I had it stripped.

Loop is CPU>>GPU>>D5>>RAD

Results? 

The card boosts to 1911 rock stable standard and 2012 stable with the power limit increased to 118% 

Temps?

14c Ambient.

It's idling at 18c and.. struggling to get to 30c while benching :thumb:

Well worth throwing a waterblock on this card!


----------



## war4peace

hihotic said:


> Here are some screenshots of EK software, and yes you can play around without having the EK Connect ( I own Aquaero 6 ).


Thank you!
As functionality goes, it has maybe 15% of Aquasuite, and it's still not clear how many LEDs it can control. I counted 20 LEDs in the top strip in the interface and 20 in the bottom one.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

19.5 Liter Cerberus X build


----------



## khemist

Looks great, i've got a SM570 in my basket just now.


----------



## Ceadderman

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You said it ek nickel plating bad
> Think all copper next time.


Sorry for the late response(waited a month for Internet access... :doh: ), but I think that this required a respnse. For the last few years EK has been sticking predominately with Nickel plate blocks, for the most part. If you want the new EK Nickel RGB CPU block, you can only get that in Nickel. All Monoblocks are Nickel plated. Only RAM and GPU blocks offer Copper. But you cannot count on getting them because as soon as they hit the vendors they are pre-order or snapped up super hades quick and typically for people on tight budgets (Like me), who don't have the funds to acquire a top of the line card and pick up a block at the same time. the copper ones tend to be scarce as EK only churns out less than half of what they do for the Nickel blocks. My RX 480 block was Copper thankfully, but my Monoblock and the backplate for the RX 480 are both Nickel since they didn't manufacture a Copper Backplate for that card. Would've loved a to see that in copper and when I purchased only two color choices were available from PPCs and one of them was out of stock and end of life. So I was stuck with Nickel. Which doesn't really concern my build as the backplate is gonna get Dinoc treatment and may likely end up being mounted vertically anyway. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## war4peace

I know this is an EKWB topic, but just want to mention EKWB isn't the only waterblock manufacturer in the world. If you want full-copper waterblocks, there are others who make them.


----------



## war4peace

About 7 months ago I disassembled an EK DDC 3.2 PWM pump, painted its metal heatsink, reassembled it and tested it. Worked perfectly. I stored it in a controlled environment afterwards (house, closet). Today I assembled my fiancee's new PC and used the pump to power its watercooling loop. 
The pump no longer starts. It tries to, with three short grinding noises, then stops and tries again and so on. Reading around on the web I found out others having this problem, with videos as well, see below. Some advice mentioned tapping the pump with a screwdriver, it didn't work in my case.

A short video of the pump trying to start in my build here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/36sWCTbF8b96faHP8

The video I found online shows the symptom better:






Question is, what do i do? Order another pump? Attempt to fix this one and if so, how?


----------



## skupples

have you tried re-opening & closing it?


----------



## Ceadderman

^Yeah I figured it out pretty quickly and edited to fix my misread. :blushsmil



war4peace said:


> About 7 months ago I disassembled an EK DDC 3.2 PWM pump, painted its metal heatsink, reassembled it and tested it. Worked perfectly. I stored it in a controlled environment afterwards (house, closet). Today I assembled my fiancee's new PC and used the pump to power its watercooling loop.
> The pump no longer starts. It tries to, with three short grinding noises, then stops and tries again and so on. Reading around on the web I found out others having this problem, with videos as well, see below. Some advice mentioned tapping the pump with a screwdriver, it didn't work in my case.
> 
> A short video of the pump trying to start in my build here:
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/36sWCTbF8b96faHP8
> 
> The video I found online shows the symptom better:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOd6T4BAI-g
> 
> Question is, what do i do? Order another pump? Attempt to fix this one and if so, how?


Why in the Lords name would you EVER paint the Impeller Cup??? I bet that paint is locking up the Impeller. :blinksmil :doh:

Oh wait, I misread that and after rereading I see you're talking about the pump heatsink. I'd hazard to guess that your cable got pinched at some point causing the power to get cut off or burn out the pcb someplace in the power schematic. I would check there first. :thinking:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## skupples

pretty sure he means he painted the outside of the bottom, which is a common practice if folks aren't selling bottoms/tops in the colors you want. 

i try not to paint anything that radiates heat, or spins. so fans & pumps always stay stock. I buy pretopped dual pumps & call it a day for a decade.


----------



## war4peace

skupples said:


> have you tried re-opening & closing it?


Yes, I have, but for a different reason, I rotated the top so that the out port and the cable would be in the same direction. I have measured the wires with a multimeter and there is connectivity.



Ceadderman said:


> I'd hazard to guess that your cable got pinched at some point causing the power to get cut off or burn out the pcb someplace in the power schematic. I would check there first. :thinking:


I checked, the cable is fine.



skupples said:


> pretty sure he means he painted the outside of the bottom, which is a common practice if folks aren't selling bottoms/tops in the colors you want.
> 
> i try not to paint anything that radiates heat, or spins. so fans & pumps always stay stock. I buy pretopped dual pumps & call it a day for a decade.


I have tested the pump after painting it and it worked. The paint resists up to 600 degrees Celsius, I don't think it's going to melt or anything


----------



## Ceadderman

war4peace said:


> Yes, I have, but for a different reason, I rotated the top so that the out port and the cable would be in the same direction. I have measured the wires with a multimeter and there is connectivity.






war4peace said:


> I checked, the cable is fine.


Well glad to hear that the cable is fine.






war4peace said:


> I have tested the pump after painting it and it worked. The paint resists up to 600 degrees Celsius, I don't think it's going to melt or anything


Ithink you may be missing the point with your painting the heatsink. Paint is an insulator. It traps and holds heat quite well. On a DDC pump that doesn't have the ability to pass that heat into the loop? This said I am not sure how long you had it in operation or if you ever did, but it's certainly worth a healthy look at the PCB if you had it running for any length of time. If you already went through everything I would suggest a PCB kit or a new pump. Cause there are only so many scenarios for a dead pump. :thinking:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## skupples

pretty sure he confirmed its alive via DMM


----------



## war4peace

Ceadderman said:


> Ithink you may be missing the point with your painting the heatsink. Paint is an insulator. It traps and holds heat quite well. On a DDC pump that doesn't have the ability to pass that heat into the loop? This said I am not sure how long you had it in operation or if you ever did, but it's certainly worth a healthy look at the PCB if you had it running for any length of time. If you already went through everything I would suggest a PCB kit or a new pump. Cause there are only so many scenarios for a dead pump. :thinking:


It worked for a few months (unpainted) in my main PC first loop, bought brand new as part of the EK 360 XE watercooling kit. I then replaced it with a dual-D5 pump and stored it for a few months. Afterwards I painted its heatsink, put it back together and tested it again for a few hours on a table, with a reservoir and a 200mm radiator, worked perfectly. Afterwards I stored it again, while buying components for my fiancee's mITX build. Once I got most of the components (still waiting for the GPU waterblock) I assembled the mITX PC and... the pump no longer starts. interestingly, after tapping it repeatedly for about 45 minutes while it was trying to start, it started... once, worked well but I had to cut power from the build because the loop was not fully filled and the reservoir emptied. Then it couldn't start again. So I guess there is something mechanical which doesn't allow it to rotate immediately after attempting to start and there is some protection built in which cuts the motor off if no rotation is being detected for a couple seconds.

Now I am thinking about getting an Eheim 1262 for my main PC and use one of the D5 pumps there on my fiancee's build. However so far I have not found out how much noise does the Eheim 1262 make. It would be decoupled from the surface using a couple of Shoggy Sandwich kits, so I'm only interested in the amount of internal noise it makes. The D5 would have no problem fitting inside the mITX case because the radiator and reservoir are located outside the case, so plenty of room inside said case.


----------



## war4peace

Update:
*I am an idiot*.

The issue started with the PSU molex connector not being compatible with the pump's Molex connector, so I had removed the pump Molex and plugged in the two wires directly into the PSU Molex. Because I am a total idiot, I _had thought_ I pplugged it into the 12V rail but instead it was connected to the 5V rail. Today I took a multimeter to it and discovered the mistake. 
The pump works perfectly now that I repaired my mistake.

Incompatible molex pic below:



Spoiler


----------



## greg1184

Looks like I will be joining this club. I am making a new custom loop with EK parts:

EK-Velocity CPU Waterblock, Digital RGB, AMD CPU, Nickel/Plexi 
EK-Quantum Vector RTX RE Ti D-RGB - Nickel + Acetal 
EKWB EK-DuraClear Soft Tubing, 12/16mm (7/16" ID, 5/8" OD) 

Look forward to making the build.


----------



## tistou77

No news for Magnitude waterblock (CPU) ?


----------



## z0ki

Has anyone done a build yet that shows off the new EK Quantum Kinetic FLT series? I'd be interested to see how these get plumbed up in a build!


----------



## Mordorr

Thinking replace my old Inovatek Tank-O-Matic , for a EK-RES X3 reservoir.


But like my Inovatek, i want to use a short and long tube, at same time.

On this video, minute +- 4:02, this guy uses some kind of adapter to use 2 tubes....








But im going crazy to try find it with X3....was only used on X2??


IN resume, using EK-RES X3 Multiport TOP i see 3 holes ?!?! But i want only 2 to install 2 tubes...
Can someone make sense of what trying to get and any solution to my question?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## ciarlatano

Mordorr said:


> Thinking replace my old Inovatek Tank-O-Matic , for a EK-RES X3 reservoir.
> 
> 
> But like my Inovatek, i want to use a short and long tube, at same time.
> 
> On this video, minute +- 4:02, this guy uses some kind of adapter to use 2 tubes....
> 
> 
> https://youtu.be/ho49UkP84vM
> 
> 
> But im going crazy to try find it with X3....was only used on X2??
> 
> 
> IN resume, using EK-RES X3 Multiport TOP i see 3 holes ?!?! But i want only 2 to install 2 tubes...
> Can someone make sense of what trying to get and any solution to my question?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


This sounds like a job for a Monsoon MMRS. Configure it exactly how you like.


----------



## Avacado

z0ki said:


> Has anyone done a build yet that shows off the new EK Quantum Kinetic FLT series? I'd be interested to see how these get plumbed up in a build!


Here you go.


----------



## Mordorr

ciarlatano said:


> This sounds like a job for a Monsoon MMRS. Configure it exactly how you like.



I think i dont have space.......

About my question....what model is that guy using?


----------



## Astral85

z0ki said:


> Has anyone done a build yet that shows off the new EK Quantum Kinetic FLT series? I'd be interested to see how these get plumbed up in a build!


Saw this one a little while back in an Enthoo 719: https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooli...d_loop_complete_chīsai_triple_rad_3970x_dual/


----------



## Mordorr

Can someone help about my questions above?


----------



## Sc00ter

Astral85 said:


> Saw this one a little while back in an Enthoo 719: https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooli...d_loop_complete_chīsai_triple_rad_3970x_dual/


How is that black ZMT tubing to work with? I've been considering switching from clear soft tubing to the ZMT tubing, mainly due to the ability to run tighter bends without fear of kinking. However, I've read that getting ZMT tubing on and off fittings can be a serious PITA, potentially damaging components with the force required to install/uninstall the tubing.

Also, the other thing that concerns me is that with clear tubing, I can quickly look to ensure a line is dry before removing it from a component. With the black tubing, that's not possible. That gives me pause, as well.


----------



## ciarlatano

Sc00ter said:


> How is that black ZMT tubing to work with? I've been considering switching from clear soft tubing to the ZMT tubing, mainly due to the ability to run tighter bends without fear of kinking. However, I've read that getting ZMT tubing on and off fittings can be a serious PITA, potentially damaging components with the force required to install/uninstall the tubing.
> 
> Also, the other thing that concerns me is that with clear tubing, I can quickly look to ensure a line is dry before removing it from a component. With the black tubing, that's not possible. That gives me pause, as well.


I never had any issues getting ZMT on or off a fitting. BUT...the OD is larger than spec, and can be an issue with compression fittings other than EK's. So, if you are using BitsPower (for example, but you can place essentially any brand other than EK here) fittings, the collar will be difficult to tighten and likely not be able to be fully screwed on. That was the deal breaker for me. If I was using EK fittings, I would see no reason not to continue using it. That is the issue you have likely heard about.


----------



## Sc00ter

ciarlatano said:


> I never had any issues getting ZMT on or off a fitting. BUT...the OD is larger than spec, and can be an issue with compression fittings other than EK's. So, if you are using BitsPower (for example, but you can place essentially any brand other than EK here) fittings, the collar will be difficult to tighten and likely not be able to be fully screwed on. That was the deal breaker for me. If I was using EK fittings, I would see no reason not to continue using it. That is the issue you have likely heard about.


Good to know. My system has all EK radiators, blocks and fittings. However, since I have 10/13 compression fittings, I'll still need to order new 10/16 fittings to make the smallest diameter ZMT (10/16) tubing work. Luckily, EK sells these in 6 packs now.


----------



## thenotoriousmma

hey guys, 
do you know , this part : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-momentum-vrm-bridge-rog-maximus-xii-formula-d-rgb-plexi (EK-Quantum Momentum VRM Bridge ROG Maximus XII Formula D-RGB - Plexi)
is it fit to Asus Rog Maximus xi Formula z390 ?


----------



## Mordorr

Again....can someone help me?


----------



## MrHarris

Mordorr said:


> Again....can someone help me?


whats the question? i cant seem to find your question in a reasonable amount of time


----------



## MrHarris

thenotoriousmma said:


> hey guys,
> do you know , this part : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-momentum-vrm-bridge-rog-maximus-xii-formula-d-rgb-plexi (EK-Quantum Momentum VRM Bridge ROG Maximus XII Formula D-RGB - Plexi)
> is it fit to Asus Rog Maximus xi Formula z390 ?


It will probably be close, but at the same time it won't be. The phrase "so close yet so far" would probably ring true here. I just tried to fix a Maximus IX Apex EKWB monoblock on a Maximus XI Hero motherboard and everything fit as far as the block itself goes, but the screw posts didn't line up and I would've had to drill into the motherboard and damage some small surface mount components in the process. Hence I still have a EKWB Maximus Apex IX (nine) monoblock.... if anyone has a legitimate use for it please PM me... i'll sell it to you for free 99.


----------



## MrHarris

Sc00ter said:


> Good to know. My system has all EK radiators, blocks and fittings. However, since I have 10/13 compression fittings, I'll still need to order new 10/16 fittings to make the smallest diameter ZMT (10/16) tubing work. Luckily, EK sells these in 6 packs now.


I have the 10/13 ACF fittings on my main rig but I just built a secondary system and used these new EK Torque fittings, in the size 10/16. Let me tell you, it is literally NIGHT AND DAY DIFFERENCE in terms of the amount of effort and stress required to properly connect the tubing to the fittings and onto the loop itself. The new 10/16 EK Torque fittings are in my honest opinion, at least 5x, maybe 10x easier than the 10/13 ACF fittings. Partially because of the thicker 10/16 tubing, but also just the ergonomics of the Torque fitting in the 10/16 size just somehow magically makes putting on the tubing somewhat of a breeze. I was shocked when I discovered this and no longer really dread actually putting together a water cooling diy loop for a computer. 

If someone is putting together a system and has not yet purchased the fittings and has decided to go with EKWB, well please do yourself a favor and spend the extra money and go with the Torque model of fittings. Preferably in 10/16 size, or larger i would assume. As this particular size just was leagues ahead of the ever so popular 10/13 ACF fittings route. Hope this info helps someone!


----------



## ThrashZone

MrHarris said:


> I have the 10/13 ACF fittings on my main rig but I just built a secondary system and used these new EK Torque fittings, in the size 10/16. Let me tell you, it is literally NIGHT AND DAY DIFFERENCE in terms of the amount of effort and stress required to properly connect the tubing to the fittings and onto the loop itself. The new 10/16 EK Torque fittings are in my honest opinion, at least 5x, maybe 10x easier than the 10/13 ACF fittings. Partially because of the thicker 10/16 tubing, but also just the ergonomics of the Torque fitting in the 10/16 size just somehow magically makes putting on the tubing somewhat of a breeze. I was shocked when I discovered this and no longer really dread actually putting together a water cooling diy loop for a computer.
> 
> If someone is putting together a system and has not yet purchased the fittings and has decided to go with EKWB, well please do yourself a favor and spend the extra money and go with the Torque model of fittings. Preferably in 10/16 size, or larger i would assume. As this particular size just was leagues ahead of the ever so popular 10/13 ACF fittings route. Hope this info helps someone!


Hi,
Actually biggest difference is ek used brass for the fittings instead of something else metal/... what ever they used prior

EK just finally made tubing the right size 10-13mm fittings the tubing was a weird size and did not fit after putting it on the barb other 10-13mm tubing fit perfectly.

So just ek finally doing something right is all.
EK tubing is still considered poor.


----------



## MrHarris

ThrashZone said:


> MrHarris said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have the 10/13 ACF fittings on my main rig but I just built a secondary system and used these new EK Torque fittings, in the size 10/16. Let me tell you, it is literally NIGHT AND DAY DIFFERENCE in terms of the amount of effort and stress required to properly connect the tubing to the fittings and onto the loop itself. The new 10/16 EK Torque fittings are in my honest opinion, at least 5x, maybe 10x easier than the 10/13 ACF fittings. Partially because of the thicker 10/16 tubing, but also just the ergonomics of the Torque fitting in the 10/16 size just somehow magically makes putting on the tubing somewhat of a breeze. I was shocked when I discovered this and no longer really dread actually putting together a water cooling diy loop for a computer.
> 
> If someone is putting together a system and has not yet purchased the fittings and has decided to go with EKWB, well please do yourself a favor and spend the extra money and go with the Torque model of fittings. Preferably in 10/16 size, or larger i would assume. As this particular size just was leagues ahead of the ever so popular 10/13 ACF fittings route. Hope this info helps someone! /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Actually biggest difference is ek used brass for the fittings instead of something else metal/... what ever they used prior
> 
> EK just finally made tubing the right size 10-13mm fittings the tubing was a weird size and did not fit after putting it on the barb other 10-13mm tubing fit perfectly.
> 
> So just ek finally doing something right is all.
> EK tubing is still considered poor.
Click to expand...

Ahh gotcha..... now that makes sense. Thanks for sharing 🙂


----------



## ThrashZone

MrHarris said:


> Ahh gotcha..... now that makes sense. Thanks for sharing 🙂


Hi,
That I noticed ek new fittings being brass plus what ever coating you want weren't badly priced for 6 pack 

Other items they sell are stupidly priced though.


----------



## thenotoriousmma

I will buy and try , 
lets see....


----------



## Sc00ter

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> That I noticed ek new fittings being brass plus what ever coating you want weren't badly priced for 6 pack
> ...


Yeah, I was pleasantly surprised by the pricing of their 10/16 6-pack of compression fittings:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-torque-6-pack-stc-10-16-black

I'm about to order two packs of those and their Black ZMT tubing:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-15-9-9-5mm-3m-retail



ThrashZone said:


> Other items they sell are stupidly priced though.



Yep. When I decided to change my loop up to get rid of all those 90's, I made a trip to MicroCenter and purchased the Corsair XD5 pump ($155) and the new Ek Quantum Kinetic 200 D5 Pump/Res combo ($190). I wanted to get them home and test fit both to see which one I liked better in my system. The decision to stick with the Corsair unit was made very quickly since the mounting mechanism was much better, the port locations were better placed, including having one additional side inlet port. Side by side, I just couldn't see why the EK unit would be nearly 25% more expensive. It didn't offer anything more than the Corsair unit. In fact, it would have made tube running and drain port placement more difficult.

So, the EK unit is boxed back up and sitting in my back seat until I can make my way back to the store to return it.


----------



## MrHarris

Sc00ter said:


> ThrashZone said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> That I noticed ek new fittings being brass plus what ever coating you want weren't badly priced for 6 pack
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I was pleasantly surprised by the pricing of their 10/16 6-pack of compression fittings:
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-torque-6-pack-stc-10-16-black
> 
> I'm about to order two packs of those and their Black ZMT tubing:
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-15-9-9-5mm-3m-retail
> 
> 
> 
> ThrashZone said:
> 
> 
> 
> Other items they sell are stupidly priced though.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Yep. When I decided to change my loop up to get rid of all those 90's, I made a trip to MicroCenter and purchased the Corsair XD5 pump ($155) and the new Ek Quantum Kinetic 200 D5 Pump/Res combo ($190). I wanted to get them home and test fit both to see which one I liked better in my system. The decision to stick with the Corsair unit was made very quickly since the mounting mechanism was much better, the port locations were better placed, including having one additional side inlet port. Side by side, I just couldn't see why the EK unit would be nearly 25% more expensive. It didn't offer anything more than the Corsair unit. In fact, it would have made tube running and drain port placement more difficult.
> 
> So, the EK unit is boxed back up and sitting in my back seat until I can make my way back to the store to return it.
Click to expand...


Sounds good and all but I have read more than once that the Corsair D5 pump is very loud. I have no first hand experience so I cannot confirm or deny this experience other buyers have shared via Internet reviews.


On a side note, I bought one of corsairs ball valves and 420mm XR5 radiators and both surpassed my expectations and I am genuinely happy with both of these diy water cooling parts Corsair is now offering. Definitely give these two parts a thumbs up.


----------



## war4peace

MrHarris said:


> On a side note, I bought one of corsairs ball valves and 420mm XR5 radiators


Neither of which are made by Corsair. They are rebrands. The fittings are rebranded Bitspower and the radiators are HardwareLabs if I'm not mistaken. Their liquid comes from Mayhems, by the way.
So, yeah, the quality is great... it's just not _their own_ quality


----------



## ciarlatano

war4peace said:


> Neither of which are made by Corsair. They are rebrands. The fittings are rebranded Bitspower and the radiators are HardwareLabs if I'm not mistaken. Their liquid comes from Mayhems, by the way.
> So, yeah, the quality is great... it's just not _their own_ quality


That is correct. Fittings are BP, the rads are HWL L-Series (their oem, bottom of their lineup) with a 50% markup for the little sailboat sticker. :doh:

And to add to that.....



MrHarris said:


> Sounds good and all but I have read more than once that the Corsair D5 pump is very loud. I have no first hand experience so I cannot confirm or deny this experience other buyers have shared via Internet reviews.


There is no "Corsair D5". It's a Xylem....just like every other D5 out there. Not any noisier or quieter than any other, because it's the same pump.


----------



## Mordorr

MrHarris said:


> whats the question? i cant seem to find your question in a reasonable amount of time





https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/993624-ek-club-2187.html#post28435178


----------



## MrHarris

Mordorr said:


> MrHarris said:
> 
> 
> 
> whats the question? i cant seem to find your question in a reasonable amount of time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/993624-ek-club-2187.html#post28435178
Click to expand...

Looks like an EK X3 reservoir with the EK multiport top/bottom upgrade


----------



## war4peace

ciarlatano said:


> That is correct. Fittings are BP, the rads are HWL L-Series (their oem, bottom of their lineup) with a 50% markup for the little sailboat sticker. :doh:
> And to add to that.....
> There is no "Corsair D5". It's a Xylem....just like every other D5 out there. Not any noisier or quieter than any other, because it's the same pump.


Yeah, forgot to mention the pumps.
So basically people are paying premium for brand name. I'm not judging, just stating facts. Everyone's entitled to buy anything they like.


----------



## Shawnb99

war4peace said:


> Yeah, forgot to mention the pumps.
> So basically people are paying premium for brand name. I'm not judging, just stating facts. Everyone's entitled to buy anything they like.



Some of the pumps are also modified so not all exactly the same. Hence why one brand may have a louder model or different connectors


----------



## ciarlatano

Shawnb99 said:


> Some of the pumps are also modified so not all exactly the same. Hence why one brand may have a louder model or different connectors


That would really be a product of the top rather than the pump. PWM circuits are different, but a physical mod to the pump is incredibly rare. I have yet to actually see one despite claims from users. Typically the mods are additions to the same pump, like the Aquacomputer NEXT.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Only modifications I've noticed is pwm or vario type of D5
Corsair changed the spec's a little max flow 750 l/h from normal 1500 l/h I believe.


----------



## Sc00ter

MrHarris said:


> Sounds good and all but I have read more than once that the Corsair D5 pump is very loud. I have no first hand experience so I cannot confirm or deny this experience other buyers have shared via Internet reviews.


I imagine that those complaining about the Corsair unit being loud aren't installing them with the proper dampening. My Corsair XD5 pump is no louder than my EK EX-RES 140 D5 Pump/res was. 



war4peace said:


> Yeah, forgot to mention the pumps.
> So basically people are paying premium for brand name. I'm not judging, just stating facts. Everyone's entitled to buy anything they like.


The Corsair XD5 Pump/Res is nearly 25% cheaper than the EK Quantum Kinetic 200 D5 Pump/Res combo I was also considering. Also, the Corsair unit came with a temp sensor and has an extra side inlet port. The extra port came in very handy when planning my tubing, drain port, and temp sensor stop plug location. In my opinion, the Corsair XD5 is a superior unit at a notably lower price, compared to the most current EK offering.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
If you live in the USA you can buy D5 from Optimus for 75.00 and have local rma support pwm and sata powered D5
https://optimuspc.com/products/xylem-d5-pro-pump-pwm-sata

Corsair being one exception to having local rma centers in the USA so rma shipping is cheaper 
So between the two in rma support would be preferred by me but Optimus would be where I get my next D5 pumps.

What the D5 goes into well that can be just about anything they are mostly universal.

EK rma is in Germany/ Slovenia and slow just the silly EU vit or what ever it is tax is pretty weird and no one can say what that cost is exactly.


----------



## war4peace

Sc00ter said:


> The Corsair XD5 Pump/Res is nearly 25% cheaper than the EK Quantum Kinetic 200 D5 Pump/Res combo I was also considering.


You forgot to mention "in my country".


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Country to country will always differ which product are easiest to get and how much they are.
Always best to buy locally if at all possible.

EK newer gpu water blocks look terrible with that metal plate on them obviously not a single piece plexi.


----------



## war4peace

I was talking about buying local. Same shop, local, COrsair is more expensive than EKWB. Not by a lot, but enough to not be worth buying, considering all factors.
Maybe their pump combo is better price-wise, but I usually stay as far away as possible from rebranded stuff.


----------



## ciarlatano

war4peace said:


> I was talking about buying local. Same shop, local, COrsair is more expensive than EKWB. Not by a lot, but enough to not be worth buying, considering all factors.
> Maybe their pump combo is better price-wise, but I usually stay as far away as possible from rebranded stuff.


I don't necessarily stay away from buying rebranded stuff. For example, if the PPCs had a huge Corsair sale and I could get one of their rads or fittings for less than the identical HWL or BP pieces, I would have no issue with that. But, I'm certainly not going to pay more for exactly the same product to have a little sailboat on it. I can't speak for the reservoirs, the argeebee first pieces in question here are not my cup of tea so I wouldn't be buying them regardless of branding.


----------



## Sc00ter

war4peace said:


> You forgot to mention "in my country".


Whoops. I failed to consider that. My apologies.


----------



## war4peace

No worries, it just so happens that I live in the EU, and since EKWB is located in the EU, its prices are on par or better than Corsair's.
When Corsair launched their custom watercooling products, I admit I was disappointed. I had expected a larger range of _self-produced_ products, considering they had EKWB top bosses working for them for over 18 months at the time. With that being said, I am not dissing others' Corsair preference, I just won't buy their products myself.


----------



## D13mass

Who tried EK-Torque 10/16 on ZMT soft tubing? Does it work smoothly?
Bought Barrow 10/16 fittings and honestly can not use them with EK ZMT tube, very hard to screw nut.


----------



## ArcticZero

Hello. I'm seriously considering jumping to a custom loop for the first time next month. I've been checking out EK's configurator for options. Quite a few comments I've read are that a lot of EK stuff is way overpriced nowadays. But I wouldn't mind paying a bit more for ease of use and maintenance down the road.

Would the configurator be a good start? Mainly cooling an 8700K and reference 3090. Cheers!


----------



## Happy Trails

ArcticZero said:


> Hello. I'm seriously considering jumping to a custom loop for the first time next month. I've been checking out EK's configurator for options. Quite a few comments I've read are that a lot of EK stuff is way overpriced nowadays. But I wouldn't mind paying a bit more for ease of use and maintenance down the road.
> 
> Would the configurator be a good start? Mainly cooling an 8700K and reference 3090. Cheers!


For me would say maybe this is ok place to start thinking over loop. There are the many good options from other companies too you may want mix and match. It possibly take some time to sort thru what loop configure you want then more time to figure out which parts you think work best for you. Thinking maybe I briefly look at the EK configure thing early on but its no really that hard to plan. Maybe hardest part for me was what fittings and tubing


----------



## ciarlatano

D13mass said:


> Who tried EK-Torque 10/16 on ZMT soft tubing? Does it work smoothly?
> Bought Barrow 10/16 fittings and honestly can not use them with EK ZMT tube, very hard to screw nut.


That would be because ZMT is made out of spec, and the OD is incorrect. Don't change your fittings, change your tubing. Aquacomputer makes a comparable that is available in most of the world that is sized correctly and doesn't require the ridiculous amounts of cleaning that ZMT does.



ArcticZero said:


> Hello. I'm seriously considering jumping to a custom loop for the first time next month. I've been checking out EK's configurator for options. Quite a few comments I've read are that a lot of EK stuff is way overpriced nowadays. But I wouldn't mind paying a bit more for ease of use and maintenance down the road.
> 
> Would the configurator be a good start? Mainly cooling an 8700K and reference 3090. Cheers!


As @Happy Trails said, the configurator is a good place to get a list of what components you need, but there will be better options from other companies for every component, in most cases at a lower price.


----------



## jura11

D13mass said:


> Who tried EK-Torque 10/16 on ZMT soft tubing? Does it work smoothly?
> Bought Barrow 10/16 fittings and honestly can not use them with EK ZMT tube, very hard to screw nut.


I'm using Bykski and Barrow 16/10mm Compression fittings and no issues although they can be harder to close collar of fitting

Which Barrow fittings did you bought? Choice fittings are harder fittings to close than their other fittings

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## jura11

ArcticZero said:


> Hello. I'm seriously considering jumping to a custom loop for the first time next month. I've been checking out EK's configurator for options. Quite a few comments I've read are that a lot of EK stuff is way overpriced nowadays. But I wouldn't mind paying a bit more for ease of use and maintenance down the road.
> 
> Would the configurator be a good start? Mainly cooling an 8700K and reference 3090. Cheers!


Hi there 

Depending on the case I would go at least with 2*360mm radiators, preferably I would go with dual 360mm radiator and MO-ra3 360mm or 420mm 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## ttnuagmada

3090 Strix active backplate. Gimmie plz.


----------



## KedarWolf

ttnuagmada said:


> 3090 Strix active backplate. Gimmie plz.


I second this!!


----------



## D13mass

ciarlatano said:


> Aquacomputer makes a comparable that is available in most of the world that is sized correctly and doesn't require the ridiculous amounts of cleaning that ZMT does.


Even official site doesn`t have tubing Anschlüsse & Schläuche
I like ZMT tube, I suppose better only Mayhems, but they have only clear now, I would like to buy black.


jura11 said:


> Which Barrow fittings did you bought? Choice fittings are harder fittings to close than their other fittings


I have barrow 10/16 which selling for 2.4$ on aliexpress with free shipping. 2.41US $ 15% OFF|Barrow TFHRKN38H, 3/8

Already bought this new line EK-Torque 10/16, previously I had EK in 2017 and the were awesome comparing to Chinese crap - barrow.


----------



## ciarlatano

D13mass said:


> Even official site doesn`t have tubing Anschlüsse & Schläuche
> I like ZMT tube, I suppose better only Mayhems, but they have only clear now, I would like to buy black.


Sorry - I meant to say Watercool rather than Aquacomputer. My bad.






HEATKILLER® EPDM Tubing 16/10 (ID3/8") schwarz, 16,95 €


Der HEATKILLER® EPDM Tubing Schlauch wurde für die härtesten Einsatzbedingen von Watercool selektiert. Durch seine spezielle Optik passt er auch gut in Mods




shop.watercool.de


----------



## D13mass

ciarlatano said:


> HEATKILLER® EPDM Tubing 16/10 (ID3/8") schwarz, 16,95 €
> 
> 
> Der HEATKILLER® EPDM Tubing Schlauch wurde für die härtesten Einsatzbedingen von Watercool selektiert. Durch seine spezielle Optik passt er auch gut in Mods
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de


But you mentioned


ciarlatano said:


> Aquacomputer makes


 *watercool* it is another company, another shop and I will not place order if I need only one tubing and pay 20 euros for shipping


----------



## ciarlatano

D13mass said:


> But you mentioned
> 
> *watercool* it is another company, another shop and I will not place order if I need only one tubing and pay 20 euros for shipping


I'm willing to bet you paid a lot more than 20 euros replacing all of your fittings instead......


----------



## D13mass

ciarlatano said:


> I'm willing to bet you paid a lot more than 20 euros replacing all of your fittings instead......


Yep, but with EK fittings I can use any tubing, not only "special made for Chinese crap" and screwing them by 1 finger


----------



## ciarlatano

D13mass said:


> Yep, but with EK fittings I can use any tubing, not only "special made for Chinese crap" and screwing them by 1 finger


So....it's the made to spec Barrow fitting's fault that ZMT is out of spec? Alriiiiiiiighty then. Keep on drinking that Kool Aid.


----------



## jura11

D13mass said:


> Even official site doesn`t have tubing Anschlüsse & Schläuche
> I like ZMT tube, I suppose better only Mayhems, but they have only clear now, I would like to buy black.
> 
> I have barrow 10/16 which selling for 2.4$ on aliexpress with free shipping. 2.41US $ 15% OFF|Barrow TFHRKN38H, 3/8
> 
> Already bought this new line EK-Torque 10/16, previously I had EK in 2017 and the were awesome comparing to Chinese crap - barrow.


Hi there 

Yup these fittings are Choice fittings, I have used them on my previous build and on current one as well and they work with EK ZMT tubing although they are harder to close but you can close it 

















If you want tubing which works with any fittings then Tygon A-60-G or Watercool/Heatkiller EPDM tubing would be better choice 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Sir Beregond

ciarlatano said:


> So....it's the made to spec Barrow fitting's fault that ZMT is out of spec? Alriiiiiiiighty then. Keep on drinking that Kool Aid.


No talking sense to some people. EK makes their tubing out of spec for market standards and it's not EK's fault? Yeah ok...


----------



## ciarlatano

Sir Beregond said:


> No talking sense to some people. EK makes their tubing out of spec for market standards and it's not EK's fault? Yeah ok...


Actually, I would wager that it is made out of spec as a marketing ploy to sell more EK fittings. Some people fall for these like...well, like......


----------



## ArcticZero

Thank you to all who replied. I'm considering going for the configurator next month, but using a pair of Hardware Labs GTX rads instead. I assume there wouldn't be any issues with this? No idea if the fittings the configurator will include are compatible as well.

Thanks!


----------



## ttnuagmada

ArcticZero said:


> Thank you to all who replied. I'm considering going for the configurator next month, but using a pair of Hardware Labs GTX rads instead. I assume there wouldn't be any issues with this? No idea if the fittings the configurator will include are compatible as well.
> 
> Thanks!


My build is GTX rads and EK fittings/tubing/blocks. You'll be fine.


----------



## ArcticZero

ttnuagmada said:


> My build is GTX rads and EK fittings/tubing/blocks. You'll be fine.


Cheers for this! Looks like I'm pulling the trigger on this build.


----------



## D-EJ915

ArcticZero said:


> Thank you to all who replied. I'm considering going for the configurator next month, but using a pair of Hardware Labs GTX rads instead. I assume there wouldn't be any issues with this? No idea if the fittings the configurator will include are compatible as well.
> 
> Thanks!


Just make sure to clean out the radiators, hwlabs are always dirty.


----------



## ttnuagmada

Where is be my 3090 strix active backplate?


----------



## ArcticZero

ttnuagmada said:


> Where is be my 3090 strix active backplate?


I too am waiting for my active backplate so my order will be shipped. Except mine is reference. ETA is May 20.


----------



## Happy Trails

Not thinking backplate even fit in my pc case for the vertical mount. Imagines this be a little heavy for the standard mount. 😯


----------



## D13mass

Hi everyone! 
Finally, received new 16/10 fittings EK-Quantum Torque EK-Quantum Torque STC-10/16 - Nickel and was trying to use them together with tubing EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm and it is so complicated, I even can not explain, very hard to plug tubing on fitting, very hard to unplug it, fittings are not better then Barrow. A few years ago I had old classic EK fittings and the same ZMT tubing and they were working very smooth together.

I do not know what exactly wrong with EKWB, but could someone explain me, maybe I should buy EK-Tube ZMT tube 16/11 mm ?
From my experience the best tubing is Mayhems clear, but now can not find them.


----------



## ChrisZski

On my setup im running:

-EK fitings
-EK Quantum Magnitude CPU block
-EK Quantum Vector 3090 block / backplate
-EK D5 pump
-EK Cryofuel Mystic Fog


----------



## Gavalar

Evening Guys,

I am just starting my first ever custom loop using a Momentum Aorus Z390 monoblock and a Quantum Vector FE and I have a question I hope you can answer.
On the EK installation manual for the FE waterblock there is a diagram showing where the thermal pads should go, above the GPU chip there are a number of thermal pads to be placed but only one memory chip and a couple of areas where there aren`t any components, just some solder points from the back of the PCB.
I have highlighted these on the image below.









My main concern is that these thermal pads won`t actually touch the water block to disperse any heat and also won`t be held in place by being sandwiched between the PCB and water block.











Can anybody answer if these pads are doing anything or am I just over thinking this?

TIA


----------



## ttnuagmada

Are there plans for an 6900 XT Aorus block?


----------



## ciarlatano

ttnuagmada said:


> Are there plans for an 6900 XT Aorus block?


Which one?


----------



## ttnuagmada

ciarlatano said:


> Which one?


There's more than one Aorus 6900 XT?


----------



## ciarlatano

ttnuagmada said:


> There's more than one Aorus 6900 XT?


Ah, I saw four 6900 XT on the Gigabyte site. I didn't notice that only one without a block is labeled Aorus.


----------



## ttnuagmada

ciarlatano said:


> Ah, I saw four 6900 XT on the Gigabyte site. I didn't notice that only one without a block is labeled Aorus.


Yeah im hoping that whoever made the block for the water cooled version will eventually release one standalone, or that EK will.


----------



## ciarlatano

ttnuagmada said:


> Yeah im hoping that whoever made the block for the water cooled version will eventually release one standalone, or that EK will.


Phanteks typically makes Auros blocks for their top of line pieces. They released the 3090 blocks, the 6900 XT shouldn't be far behind. And I would guess that Bykski will release one, since they seem to release a block for every card imaginable.


----------



## D-EJ915

ciarlatano said:


> Phanteks typically makes Auros blocks for their top of line pieces. They released the 3090 blocks, the 6900 XT shouldn't be far behind. And I would guess that Bykski will release one, since they seem to release a block for every card imaginable.


Man I just bought the EK Aorus Xtreme block because Phanteks was nowhere to be seen and refused to give me an answer if they were working on one or not lol.


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## KedarWolf

I own this, it's on my RTX 3090.

EKWB Stric OC 3090 Waterblock










Bought this.

EKWB Strix 3090 Active Backplate (preorder)










Also Gelid Extreme thermal pads, 2.0mm/1.5mm/1.0mm x3 each and Cryofuel premix to top off my rad.


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## ttnuagmada

my 3090 active backplate needs to ship

edit: well, that worked out! got a shipping confirmation the next day.


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## morph.

I guess this qualifies here:


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## satinghostrider

morph. said:


> I guess this qualifies here, I'll leave it here:
> 
> View attachment 2517327
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517328
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> 
> View attachment 2517329
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> View attachment 2517330
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> View attachment 2517331
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> View attachment 2517332
> View attachment 2517333


As Lord Vader would say, IMPRESSIVE MOST IMPRESSIVE.


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## satinghostrider

Here is my setup with my brand new 11900K + Z590 Apex.

Pretty darn happy with the setup which I have planned for a few months now.


Intel i9 11900K CPU with EK Quantum Magnitude Block
MSI Gaming X Trio 3090 with EK Quantum Vector Block + EKWB Backplate Nickel + Thermalright 13.8W/mk High Performance Thermal Pads (450W Suprim X Flash)
Asus ROG Apex M13A Z590 M/B 0903 BIOS
Klevv Bolt XR 3600Mhz C18 O/C 5066Mhz C20 + EK Monarch Heatspreaders + Thermal Grizzly Minuspad 8W/mk High Performance Thermal Pads + EK Monarch x4 Nickel Waterblock
Asus Thor 1200W PSU
Western Digital 1TB SN850 Gen4 M.2 NVME
Silver Surfer 18AWG Custom Cables
Link-Up Gen4 PCIE Cable (Vertical)
EKWB Radiators + Vardar X3M 120mm Fans + Fittings + Cryofuel + Red Dye Pack


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## zerophase

Have an EK Quantum Momentum block on a Zenith II Extreme Alpha. Only issue so far is I cannot get the screws to screw into the block at the top of board. Are those screw necessary? Should I be using the stock board screws or the long screws that came with the block?


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